THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 I Limited to 1 000 copies § 
 § This Number 9..}L?>. g
 
 MY AFRICAN HOME; 
 
 OR, 
 
 BUSH LIFE IN NATAL.
 
 My African Home 
 
 BY 
 
 ELIZA FEILDEN 
 
 We have been greatly encouraged in our efforts to reprint 
 
 early books about Natal by the enthusiasm and interest shown 
 
 in our endeavours by our good friends Daphne Strutt and 
 
 Donald Stayt. We wish to record our appreciation for the 
 
 help we have received from these two guardians of Natal' s 
 
 early history. 
 
 T. W. GRIGGS & CO. {PTY) LTD. 
 
 Interest in the early history of Durban has prompted us to 
 offer to the public a new facsimile edition of my African 
 home. First printed in 1850 this new edition is limited to 
 1 000 numbered copies. 
 
 T. W. GRIGGS & CO. (PTY) LTD. 
 
 NEW EDITION 1973, PUBLISHED BY 
 T. W. GRIGGS & CO. (PTY) LTD., P.O. BOX 926, DURBAN 
 
 Reproduced from the original by: 
 INTERPRINT (PTY) LTD, DURBAN
 
 i 
 
 m
 
 MY AFRICAN HOME; 
 
 OR, 
 
 BUSH LIFE IN NATAL WHEN A 
 YOUNG COLONY 
 
 [1852-7] 
 
 BY 
 
 ELIZA WHIGHAM FEILDEN 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 Hontton 
 
 SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON 
 
 CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET 
 
 1887 
 
 \All rights reserved]
 
 T> 
 
 Dcbkatct) 
 
 SISTERS AND BROTHERS. 
 
 X2316S77
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 THIRTY years have elapsed since the simple descriptions 
 in the following pages were written, during five years 
 of active bush life in Natal. 
 
 The letters were restored to me on my return to 
 England. I have been induced to publish them, with 
 selections from my journal, in the hope that they may 
 entertain many young friends who have been interested 
 about my " African Home." 
 
 E. W. F. 
 
 ROPPYNDEN, BURWASH. 
 October. 1886.
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 I'AGE 
 
 Feniscowles, Durban, Natal Frontispiece 
 
 View from house at Durban 22 
 
 Louisa 31 
 
 Louisa and Gudgeon 39 
 
 Leyland's lapful . . .143 
 
 South African wagon outspanning 167 
 
 Our house at Richmond 212 
 
 Mazobani, a Zulu Caffre 270 
 
 Umlimba, wife of Mazobani 321
 
 MY AFEICAN HOME; 
 
 OR. 
 
 BUSH LIFE IN NATAL. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 March St/t, 1852. — This is our seventeenth day at sea, 
 and where has been my journal ? Perhaps it is as well 
 I have not kept one ; it would have been weary to 
 read, and now I may give a general impression of what 
 is past without the lassitude and drowsiness we have 
 all felt more or less. I am quite mistaken in my ex- 
 pectations of a sea voyage being invigorating and 
 inspiriting, though it may do good in the main after 
 it is over. I expected rest and fresh breezes, but more 
 tired each evening I never felt It is constant fatigue ; 
 all the muscles of the body are in exercise ; we have to 
 hold hard to keep our seats steady, and to hold hard 
 to keep our feet steady when we pace the deck, and as 
 these two occupations last the whole day it is pretty 
 hard work, giving one some idea of the labcur of the 
 treadmill. I have suffered very little from sea-sickness, 
 only the first day " my dinner tumbled out " like little 
 Henrietta's, without a particle of acidity. On Sunday the 
 captain assembled us all, and read some of the Church 
 prayers, and the 5th chapter of St. Matthew's Gospel. 
 The sailors and passengers were all very attentive and 
 proper. Amongst the steerage passengers is a very 
 respectable elderly woman, engaged to take charge of a 
 widower's family ; he has paid her passage out, her 
 
 B
 
 2 My African Home ; or, 
 
 countenance would be her passport. Then there is a great, 
 fine-looking Scotchwoman, who says she is going out to 
 be married. Alas ! for her, she should have secured her 
 husband ere he sailed. The man's brother, however, 
 saw her on board, and paid her passage. Of the rest 
 I have learned nothing, and I do not fancy them. 
 
 March \2th. — A fresh breeze has filled our sails, 
 and carried us on famously. We passed Madeira — 
 though out of sight — on the tenth or eleventh day 
 and got into the trade-winds a day or two later. We 
 are highly favoured: our fellow-passengers are all 
 respectable and quiet. " Sawbones " is a decent, unpre- 
 suming man, in delicate health, which may have been 
 his reason for accepting the passage. He suffers from 
 chronic bronchitis, which he says nothing but change 
 of climate will take away. He has not had much 
 practice on board as yet, beyond mixing a pill or two, 
 but he may be useful by-and-by. Mrs. Wasserman is 
 an Englishwoman, a quiet, subdued, gentle-looking lady, 
 in delicate health. Her husband, a goodnatured-looking 
 German, has fixed on Natal as a likely place to suit his 
 wife, while he may do a little business. They have two 
 children — the best ordered I ever saw — and an active, 
 useful nurse. The children are never allowed to fret, 
 and neither parents nor children ever make a complaint 
 about their food. Not so Mrs. Miller, who is a regular 
 grumbletonian ; she has two squalling children — the 
 baby, poor thing, teething — and as there is no space for 
 separation in these small vessels (under 300 tons), the 
 proximity is not particularly agreeable. We think 
 ourselves fortunate to be able to retire to our little cabin 
 on deck, and draw our curtain, and thus feel a retreat. 
 Most fortunately the ladies brought chairs or we should 
 have been badly off, for not a movable seat does the 
 vessel contain, beyond two or three wooden stools 
 without backs. 
 
 Our captain is a good-natured man, and anxious to 
 make us comfortable, so we make but few complaints. 
 I could not help complaining of the bread — even Mrs. 
 Wasserman said, " If it were only a little better." I
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 3 
 
 made my complaint rather cunningly. I said, " Captain, 
 the steward has not had time to knead the bread, now I 
 dare say some of those women can bake well, that great 
 Scotchwoman, for instance, don't you think you could 
 ask her ? " " I'll see about it," and, lo ! the next baking 
 was a different thing, but the steward had done it. Our 
 food is - very fair so far, but it shames me to think 
 how dependent our pleasure is upon our palate. The 
 cooking is greasy, and the meat spoiled in the boiling. 
 We, however, are very well off, having been so helped by 
 all our friends in numerous little delicacies — a pot of 
 Amelia's marmalade and biscuits, and a loaf of bread a 
 fortnight baked from Feniscowles were quite a luxury 
 — a slice received by our fellow-voyagers quite gratefully. 
 As long as Mary's basket had anything in, I would say, 
 " Ask Mary for a biscuit." I am sorry to say some of 
 the sailors found their way to one of our hampers, and 
 two bottles of wine and three of porter have disappeared. 
 We have brought the rest into the cabin and locked 
 them under the sofa. We get roasted potatoes and 
 chops for breakfast, or fish cooked, with eggs, tea, coffee, 
 cocoa, toast, all which sounds very well, and would 
 taste well too, if the cook understood his business better. 
 However, we might be worse off, and maybe before we 
 have done, for this is only our third week, and I don't 
 fancy the preserved meats will be nice, they boil them 
 to rags. 
 
 Alas ! the three little pigs died, and were consigned 
 to the deep one after the other. The sheep do well ; 
 we killed one last week, and have been enjoying mutton, 
 fresh and sweet, ever since. I doubt this sheep is nearly 
 finished. Our primitive larder is easily looked into. It 
 is made under the boat that is fixed from above the 
 cabin door — over our outside drawing-room. The boat 
 thus acts as larder and awning, and the joints hanging 
 over our heads are chandeliers or pictures of "dead 
 game," &c. Occasionally, when the bloodhound " Nero " 
 or my little " Vic " comes this way, I have seen a pocket- 
 knife opened, and a small slice cut off a joint to give 
 to the dogs. I have thought of Gordon Cumming 
 
 B 2
 
 4 My African Home ; or, 
 
 cutting steaks from the hippopotamus as it fled from 
 his hand ! 
 
 Our second Monday on board was quite an exciting 
 day. We got up some boxes to examine their contents. 
 None of the passengers are so well off as we are ; but 
 we are so well stored we can afford to be generous, more 
 especially as some things don't keep for ever. The first 
 box we opened we found all would keep, so we shut it 
 up again ; then we came to Margaret's mysterious box 
 of good things. I could remember nothing about it, 
 except a round of beef which was " not to be eaten till 
 we longed for it," and some cheese ; so we opened, and 
 oh ! but it was a sight, I won't say for " sair e'en," but 
 for a covetous stomach. Our exclamations greatly 
 amused the good German, who watched with as much 
 eagerness as if it had been his own. " What's this ? " 
 cried one. " Oh, beef ! " " No such thing, this is a 
 great pie ! there's the beef below." It was duly smelt 
 and admired, and declared to be quite sweet and good, 
 but whether a venison pasty, a beefsteak pie, or a 
 porker, we could not decide. We agreed to restrain our 
 curiosity as all was so sweet, and shut it up again till 
 Saturday when we took it into the cabin. Alas ! a thick 
 mould had encircled the crust. We pulled away the 
 crust, sent for a dish, and lo ! a noble ham came from 
 below ! We have our luncheon off it every day, and 
 we give slices to our guests, a real treat. We have not 
 touched the beef yet. We took out one tongue (there* 
 is yet another), and the box is filled with delicacies ; 
 every one exclaimed at the beautiful and most careful 
 packing, and I have frequently lain on my berth won- 
 dering and meditating on all the love and affection that 
 had prompted so much. Dear Mary's untiring fingers, 
 too ! I hang my watch in her watchpocket every night, 
 and Mary Stewart's eau-de-Cologne bottle beside it, so 
 pretty with its basket and red ribbon ; the useful brush- 
 bag, too, and ail its contents. The air-cushion is ab- 
 solutely invaluable, for with the constant effort to sit 
 steady, the seat becomes very hard. Leyland asked me 
 one day where " those worked cushions " came from.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 5 
 
 " Why," I said, " you surely know your own ; that one 
 is what my mother was working so hard at to get ready 
 for your head, and this one Mary made for mine." He 
 is sure he never thanked her for his. 
 
 March 2otk, 1852. — We crossed the line yesterday and 
 Neptune paid us a visit. He came on deck dripoing 
 with sea-water, and duly presented himself, bowing low 
 to the ladies, who were on what we call the top of the 
 house, i.e. above the cabin, and reached by a long step 
 to a post, another on to a water-cask, and a third 
 reaches the top. It was well the ladies were out of 
 harm's way, for a scene of riotous fun ensued, and the 
 sailors became half wild with their tricks. The poor 
 doctor made a most gallant resistance ; he was chased 
 up and down the vessel, and climbed the rigging with 
 great agility, Neptune after him, and finally became a 
 very lamb in the hands of half a dozen sailors, who 
 soused him well from head to foot, clothes and all. 
 Next came the German, who made no resistance and 
 g lve no fun ; and by degrees such tricks got played that 
 the two little Wassermans hid their faces and cried, 
 and I felt half inclined to follow their example. Then 
 the deck had to be swept up, and all was quiet once 
 more, and only the ladies and children to be seen on 
 deck ; but by degrees one after another reappeared fresh 
 and dry in sundry costumes, and a lot of clothes were 
 seen hanging from the rigging to dry. Leyland pre- 
 tended he could not get at another pair of trousers, and 
 made me dress him up in fancy costume, of which I 
 attempted a sketch. He was so picturesque, in short 
 white calico skirt or kilt, with short drawers, a blue 
 Garibaldi shirt, red sash, and Indian mocassins, without 
 stockings. Little Archie said, " Mamma, if Mr. Feilden 
 can go without trousers, I think I may too." So his 
 are doffed, poor child. He is a sweet, gentle boy, a 
 very " Oliver Twist," as his mother calls him, but sadly 
 puny. The baby is better and does not squeal quite so 
 much now. 
 
 The heat is excessive, and our contrivances for cool- 
 ness are rather peculiar. I have manufactured a muslin
 
 6 My African Home; or, 
 
 helmet, and brush my hair all off my face up to a knot 
 on the top of my head. Mrs. Miller is taking my like- 
 ness ; her own would be a long thin white thread-paper, 
 without either stays or bustle. The gentlemen wear no 
 coats. In the evenings they play at quoits or other 
 games, and later on we sit on the sides of the vessel and 
 look into the glorious and wonderful waters spangled 
 all over with animalculae and fish charged with electricity 
 as they strike the waters, and resemble a myriad of 
 bright stars below us, as well as those above. Jupiter 
 shines pre-eminent, the silver line of his light across the 
 waters is like that cast by the moon. We have left the 
 Northern star now, but look with interest on those four 
 brilliants forming the Southern Cross. 
 
 Last night we were waiting on " the top of the house" 
 to watch Neptune sent off to sea in a blazing tar-barrel, 
 when I exclaimed, " Look at that star on the water, 
 that is too far off for animalculae to be visible." " That 
 is a fish," said a sailor. Presently it grew more brilliant, 
 then suddenly springing out of the water, made several 
 plunges and disappeared. It was a porpoise. Its colour 
 was transparent green illuminated. Earlier in the even- 
 ings many of these great fish are seen unilluminated, 
 playing and plunging, and thoroughly enjoying their 
 bath in the cool sea. One day there was a rush to the 
 end of the vessel to see a whale ; another day it was a 
 shark, but a very unsatisfactory view could be obtained 
 of either, nor would the shark approach any nearer for a 
 bait of flesh hung over to lure it. 
 
 One day the captain pointed quietly to a little white 
 thing that was sailing past. It was a Nautilus, and 
 presently some dozens — quite a fleet of these tiny little 
 ships — sailed past. These are called Portuguese men- 
 of-war, and are not the beautiful Nautili that have the 
 white transparent shell. Their sails vary in size from 
 an inch to a finger's length, the sail in a crescent, bowing 
 the water ; some are white, and some have an edge of rich 
 pink ; all are transparent as gossamer in the middle, a 
 long fibrous matter hangs down under the water for 
 ballast. They seemed to be sailing away very fast, but
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 7 
 
 I found it was we who were passing them, and that they 
 were merely floating in the sunshine. 
 
 Only once since we lost sight of the British Isles have 
 we seen land, and that was the Island of St. Antonio, 
 one of the Cape Verde Islands, with mountains 9000 
 feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 Leyland's contrivances for our comfort (I might say 
 for mine, for he can rough it well) are numerous. One 
 day I found a clean towel spread on our little table in 
 our cabin, and quite a feast laid out ; one of Margaret's 
 tongues, a pot of marmalade, a saucer with sugar, a plum 
 cake, and some biscuits. Presently the steward brought 
 in two cups of tea and toast, a couple of dear Margaret's 
 es;gs, which we think so much richer than the ship's eggs, 
 and we had our tea in private, our curtain shutting us 
 out from intrusion. We are so much better off than the 
 other passengers, not merely in the good things and 
 comforts our friends supplied, but in our cabins being 
 up-stairs. Mrs. Wasserman says, " They look so nice, 
 and we were so stupid as not to take them, we having 
 the first choice ! " I agree with her, it was stupid. 
 
 March 23rd. — We have had a sad catastrophe on 
 board. The great Scotchwoman gave birth to a child 
 about a fortnight ago ; she had not known if there 
 would be a doctor on the vessel, and believed she should 
 never reach Natal, but be buried in the sea, and so she 
 has been, and it was sad to think there was not a 
 mourner except those from pity. She had the mid- 
 cabin all to herself, and the decent elderly woman acted 
 as her nurse. At the end of a week she seemed all 
 right, the nurse left her at midnight, and early in the 
 morning she found her with the death-rattle in her 
 throat. The doctor was quickly with her, but she died 
 almost instantly. The heat was intense, so there was 
 no delay in committing the body to the deep. I found 
 the sailors busy making a shroud of a piece of new sail- 
 cloth, and so soon as ready the captain assembled the 
 sailors, and read the prayers of the Burial Service very 
 solemnly. The ladies, except myself, declined being 
 present. The ship's flags were hung as a curtain be-
 
 8 My African Home ; or, 
 
 tween us and the corpse, which yet could be .seen lying 
 on a board decently covered with the Union Jack. 
 During the service the curtain was raised, and at the 
 right moment the body was quietly committed to the 
 deep. The elderly female took charge of the poor baby, 
 but it too has followed its mother. I longed to put my 
 finger on its forehead in the name of the Lord Jesus, 
 but I hope He has received the helpless infant. The 
 poor doctor has taken this woman's death much to 
 heart, and was ill for two days in consequence. 
 
 One of our amusements on board is to pretend that 
 the post has arrived, and we bring out some letter of 
 love received before leaving home, and read it together, 
 a great treat-; but, alas ! where are all those letters kept 
 purposely for the voyage, and at the last moment stowed 
 away to fill some vacant corner in some box not now 
 remembered ? We have looked into another box of 
 good things, and find dear Minna's ham so cool and 
 sweet that we shall probably reserve it for Natal, as well 
 as many other articles. The steward is most polite, 
 making a giand bow whenever he brings me anything ! 
 
 A ship has been in sight, but she proved to be 
 Portuguese, possibly a slaver. She would not speak. 
 
 May ist, 1852. — Beyond the Cape of Good Hope. 
 Two days ago was my dear mother's birthday. We 
 drank her health in every liquid that passed our lips, 
 even once in quinine, and finally at night, opened our 
 bottle of whiskey, and drank it in a good glass of toddy. 
 Mrs. Miller and the captain were still up, so they were 
 called in to share ; the steward who supplied us with 
 sugar and water got a little treat too, and our cabin 
 behind the curtain showed quite a cheerful little scene. 
 We get very good bread now, and are either better 
 supplied than at first or we grow more accustomed to 
 the style of cooking. We have eaten six sheep at the 
 cabin table (I fear the last leg has been taken from our 
 larder to-day). The pigs, except one, died. The fowls 
 are as tough as old rabbits. I sometimes suspect they 
 have been killed to prevent a natural or unnatural 
 death, as I saw happen one day, but there is no use
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 9 
 
 inquiring too strictly into anything eatable on a three- 
 months' voyage. The mutton is deliciously fresh and 
 sweet, and we pick the bones as clean as any dog would 
 do. 
 
 By-the-bye, poor little "Vic'' has become food for 
 fishes, and I believe it was more lamented over than the 
 poor baby. It was too young for the voyage, and died 
 in strong convulsions. 
 
 I am disappointed in finding neither fresh air nor rest 
 as I expected on a long sea voyage without steam. The 
 smells in the little vessel are odious, smoke and soot 
 from the kitchen chimney at times are as bad as from 
 a mill. And for rest ! Since we got into the neighbour- 
 hood of the Cape we have been '* shyed" off sofas, and 
 knocked about in various ways all day long. The story 
 of the Golden Goose and its picture in the little story- 
 book came into my thoughts one day, as Leyland and I, 
 with our backs firmly planted against " the house " were 
 balancing off one leg on to the other, poor Mrs. Miller 
 shot past us, Leyland put out his hand and caught her, 
 but slipping, I put out mine and caught him ; then came 
 little Archie and caught his mother by the gown, and 
 so we formed a line like the geese, all sticking by the 
 touch. Often have we been jerked off our seats and 
 rolled into a heap on the floor. I got a " Well done " 
 from the captain one day in a squall, for catching 
 two plates on their way to the floor ; but we are all 
 growing fatter and rosier during our " winter at the 
 Cape." 
 
 The seas during this breezy weather are sometimes 
 magnificent, with their snow-white, frothy foam around 
 the ship, and the great heaving, heavy waves, reminding 
 one of those poetical descriptions of being rocked on the 
 swelling bosom of the mighty ocean. The birds are so 
 different from land birds, they fly so strong and swiftly. 
 But the noble albatross is like a king among them all, 
 its rapid flight is without effort ; it sweeps the winds 
 with its long wings, and describes circles, ascending or 
 descending with equal ease and rapidity. It reminds 
 me of a very skilful skater on the ice, cutting spread-
 
 io My African Home ; or, 
 
 eagles and skimming along, &c. A flying fish paid us 
 a visit one day. It had a dark back and white belly, 
 with large black eyes. It is about the size of a whiting, 
 and its wings are like extended fins shut up, and not 
 otherwise noticeable. 
 
 It is surprising how quickly — after the first few weeks 
 — the time passes, and we so very idle, but I sleep from 
 ten to eleven hours every night dreaming, unremembered 
 dreams, but always appertaining to land, so that I am 
 only about half my time at sea. One dream I must 
 write down, it was so distinct and so curious. " Me- 
 thought a swarm of bees had hived under our bed, and 
 that looking for something one day led me to find them, 
 for though they had been flying about, going and convng 
 till they had accumulated piles of honeycomb, we had 
 never either of us seen or heard them till their work was 
 finished and the honey ready for us. Methought I saw 
 the shells of several bees, as they had cast them (do 
 they so ?) sticking against the wall in their wax, but the 
 honeycomb was most of it piled on the floor ! ! " 
 
 On Saturday afternoon, we were watching the light- 
 ning playing rapidly behind a large dark cloud almost 
 close to the horizon. It shot about in every direction ; 
 the evening was calm and still. I turned to go in, and 
 instantly a tremendous rattling came against the windows, 
 and Mrs. Miller followed with a hailstone fully an 
 inch long, thick and sharp. The doctor followed with 
 another that measured an inch and a half, shaped like a 
 top. Aiter we had examined and wondered, and almost 
 feared, we threw it down the skylight for the nurses to 
 see. The thunder was loud, and the lightning illu- 
 minated the sea ; it was grandly beautiful. The cap- 
 tain had hard work to get his sails in. He called it 
 a brisk gale, but said there was not wind enough to call 
 it a storm. The weather has been much more enjoyable 
 and wholesome in the neighbourhood of the Cape, but 
 our only seats on deck are the sides of the vessel, with 
 one arm outside to hold by. Our chairs have been lashed 
 to the mast in the cabin for ten days, and the deck ge f s 
 too much sea to sit on its floor. Perched up on the
 
 Bush Life in Natal. ii 
 
 sides, however, we look into some of the wonders of the 
 deep, and the rich rolling, foaming, and heaving of its 
 waters are truly magnificent, and raise the thoughts in 
 wonder and praise to the great Creator. 
 
 May 4?/i. — We had a splendid run from the Cape to 
 Natal, and the cry of " land " to-day sent us all running 
 out, since which the outline of the long range of hills has 
 been constantly becoming clearer. The sun set gloriously 
 behind them, and red golden clouds threw a rich glow 
 over the whole. An inspiriting sea breeze, with famous 
 white waves, rendered the scene quite delightful. The 
 flags and pennants were made ready to wave in the 
 breeze, and we passengers busied ourselves with putting 
 up our various goods and chattels, so as not to be delayed 
 in landing. 
 
 It was late when we went ashore. A gentleman 
 rowed us across the Bay of Durban in a small boat, 
 with a brilliant moon overhead. We landed and walked 
 through a lovely garden that I was told belonged to my 
 husband ; we have named it " Pazulu," a Caffre word 
 meaning " on high," and by adding another, " Tala 
 Pazulu," it makes " give thanks on high," for there we first 
 set foot on land after a three and a half months' voyage. 
 It was disappointing to find we could not live there, for 
 the garden was exquisite, and filled with fruits and 
 flowers. Some grand old trees were in it, that would 
 take three people to stretch round their trunks ; they 
 called them the fig-tree. Another walk through this 
 garden next day made me still more regret that our 
 house was not there ; the view over the bay was charm- 
 ing. It is a rich garden, already in a high state of culti- 
 vation, it being used as a market-garden, with beautiful 
 flowering shrubs. But the tenant claimed a right to 
 remain a little longer, and he was not one to forego it.
 
 12 My African Home ; or, 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 On arriving at Durban, Port Natal, our first business was 
 to set our house in order and examine into the state of 
 our affairs left in the hands of agents, when a mist of 
 confusion, fraud, and neglect came to light, and I don't 
 know which proved the worst, the men who got us into 
 trouble or those who pretended to get us out. Between 
 them we were half ruined, but I do not wish to write 
 more than necessary of these bad people. 
 
 The little red brick house I was conducted to that 
 memorable night of landing was clean and cheerful, and 
 looked like rest and comfort. A hall, or, as the ancients 
 called it, " prandinium," ran through from front to back, 
 out of which opened four rooms : a parlour, with bed- 
 room opposite, a servants' room and storeroom opposite. 
 Our kitchen was a small building outside, in which our 
 Caffre slept, as is the fashion of this young colony. A 
 nice piece of ground at the back to be made into a 
 garden. In front is the road, and beyond a bare, swampy- 
 looking plain, spotted here and there with clumps of 
 wild trees. Occasionally a great covered Dutch wagon 
 might be seen, with its team or "span" of twelve or 
 fourteen oxen, toiling across the distance, its driver, 
 with his very long whip, walking alongside ; or a Caffre 
 would -be seen with a tray on his head, carrying his load 
 to the barracks or elsewhere. 
 
 During the first ten days the house was kept for me 
 by a respectable man and his wife, who had made all 
 ready for us, and I had nothing to do but pay the bills ; 
 but after that the wife told me they could not stay, and 
 she had been inquiring for a servant for me, and that she 
 had heard of a nice girl, whose chief fault was her youth,
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 13 
 
 and she was coming to see me. I liked the girl's 
 appearance and engaged her, though little more than 
 fourteen years old. She was the eldest of a large family 
 of children, her father was ill, and her mother had gone 
 through a great deal of trouble and sickness. Poor 
 " Jane " used to tell me of the struggles they had gone 
 through in an artless, simple, and interesting manner, and 
 we soon became great friends. Trials at home had 
 made her older than her years, but she had still much to 
 learn, and so had I ; and many a good- laugh we had 
 together at our experiments in the kitchen, and the 
 making of bread. Poor old Gudgeon, whom Leyland 
 had taken out with us as a sort of Jack-of-all-trades, was 
 a great help in these departments. He knew a good 
 deal ; but he was a sad, dirty fellow if left to himself, 
 and so much given to drinking that he finally became 
 quite a nuisance. He came to me on the Queen's 
 birthday, and asked for something in which to drink her 
 health. 
 
 " I think, Gudgeon, you've been doing that already." 
 
 "To be sure I have, and will again," and he seated 
 himself on a chair in the hall. 
 
 " Go away, Gudgeon, I shall give you nothing. Set 
 off with you directly." 
 
 " I'll not stir till you give me something to drink the 
 Queen's health in." 
 
 "Go off at once; I shall give you nothing," said I, 
 half afraid of the drunken man. 
 
 "Will you give me nothing? then here goes !" and 
 he flung out of the house, tore up the rails that sur- 
 rounded the garden, and disappeared for a day or two. 
 Some one saw him lying asleep on the roadside next 
 day. Many a struggle had we with poor Gudgeon, but 
 he was so honest, hardworking, and useful when sober, 
 and always came back so penitent after a drunken fit, 
 that he was invariably tried again. "Jane" liked him 
 better than a Caffre, and we got on very well for a 
 time. 
 
 The climate of Natal is delicious in its cooler season, 
 reminding me of winter in Naples. The manner of life
 
 14 My African Home ; or, 
 
 is simple and natural in the country, and suited my 
 tastes very well, but I would not recommend many of 
 my friends to emigrate to a young colony. Everything 
 has to be made out of the ground, literally in the sweat 
 of the brow ; importations are all dear, labour difficult, 
 and more than half the early settlers are ruined. All 
 have extreme hardships to struggle with. It is they who 
 arrive after the colony begins to rise who thrive on the 
 foundations laid by the others. Worst of all are those 
 sharp, clever, unprincipled men, who are ever on the 
 watch to inveigle the unwary new comer into some 
 plausible scheme to pick his pocket, and it would require 
 a very suspicious character not to fall into the trap. 
 Many a trap did we fall into. 
 
 June 17th, 1852. — We rode out to see our farm of 
 " Feniscowles " one day quite in gipsy fashion ; I on a 
 rough, sorry jade of a beast that could scarcely keep 
 pace with Leyland on foot beside me. The farm is 
 beautifully situated, reminding me of some of the high- 
 lands of Scotland ; not mountains, but wooded hills, and 
 fields barren for want of cultivation. A great deal is 
 bushland and must be cleared, which is immense labour, 
 but everything seems to grow easily and rapidly. 
 During great part of our road out we had views of the 
 Bay of Durban behind us, and a splendid view of it 
 from the top of the garden at the farm, the beautifully 
 wooded Berea stretching around from side to side, and 
 the Bluff shutting the bay out from the Indian Ocean, 
 like the embrace of a pair of arms. The noble view 
 from parts of the estate extends for a great distance on 
 every side over sloping banks, and wooded hills, and 
 valleys ; but, except the bay and ocean beyond, not 
 much water is visible. This lovely spot was destined to 
 become my home during the five years of my sojourn in 
 Africa. My husband cut a road through the bush, 
 which formed a continuous triumphal arch for at least a 
 mile, the richest flowering shrubs and perfumes on each 
 side meeting overhead, and lovely creepers, intertwined 
 with flowers and wild fruits, hanging down. A ride 
 through this path by moonlight was truly romantic, the
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 15 
 
 strong lights and shadows, and the rough road for the 
 horse's feet, stumps of trees cut down not quite level 
 with the road, and occasionally a peculiar growl or howl, 
 which we knew to be that of the tiger or panther, made 
 it rather nervous work. 
 
 One of the farm CarTres came to Leyland the other 
 day saying he should like to wear clothes. He was 
 promised some if he continued to work, and so he has 
 got a shirt and a pair of white linen trousers, and looks 
 a very smart Caffre. The shirt he wears in form of a 
 smock frock, but the trousers he soon discarded as too 
 confined, so nature's own dark, well-fitting, and shining 
 boots show conspicuously under the smock-frock. The 
 Zulu Caffres are really an intelligent-looking race, 
 shrewd, keen at a bargain, cunning, and lazy. On a 
 nearer acquaintance with their ways and persons, I am 
 glad we can do without them for household use. They 
 rub their bodies with any kind of grease to protect them 
 from insects and sun ; the scent of a Caffre is per- 
 ceived from afar. A dirty, rough cotton blanket is their 
 usual wrap. I much prefer them in rude nakedness with 
 a sort of sporran hanging before and behind, their thick 
 dark polished mahogany skin shining in the sun. They 
 look quite manly with firm, erect step, and an air of 
 careless freedom. 
 
 As we went out to Feniscowles we met some Caffre 
 women with gowns on, probably from some mission sta- 
 tion. They were carrying Caffre gooseberries for sale. 
 We stopped them, bought two baskets full for ninepence, 
 and with some difficulty, and a good deal of laughter, 
 made them understand where we wished them to be taken 
 and left. Neither of us possessed a pencil, but with a 
 pin Leyland pricked his name on paper, and the word 
 " paid." The women had two miles or more to carry 
 them, and when we got home in the evening we found 
 them there all right. Three days after these women 
 came with more, which I also bought, and struck up a 
 kind of friendship with them, and made them under- 
 stand I would buy fowls from them occasionally. We 
 can buy a fowl for sixpence, and a few days' feeding
 
 16 My African Home; or, 
 
 and fattening make it ready to eat, and very good 
 too ! 
 
 " Jane '' knows a few Caffre sentences, which are use- 
 ful in trading. She is a nice girl, but wants order sadly, 
 putting things anywhere to be out of the way for the 
 moment. We have a famous cupboard for china and 
 silver, but I have to look into it daily myself. Had I 
 to choose again, I would change the nature of a good 
 many of the articles we brought, which are simply 
 useless here, whereas an untinned saucepan or common 
 brown earthen mug is scarcely, if ever, to be had in 
 Durban. I am told the Caffres occasionally bring 
 wooden bowls of their own cutting to sell. They know 
 the value of shillings, sixpences, and sovereigns — other 
 moneys confuse them, and they will sometimes give five 
 threepenny bits (which coin is abundant here) in ex- 
 change for a shilling. Many of the Caffres are rich. 
 They buy cattle and wives. Our young Caffres save 
 up their wages to purchase cows, and a certain number 
 of cows will buy them a wife. As they grow richer they 
 increase the number of their wives, who do all the work 
 required at the craals, the last or lowest wife, I believe, 
 always taking the hardest work. The man seems to do 
 no work about the craal, so far at least as I have yet 
 learned. They are very jealous of intruders in their 
 craals, which are built (if I may call it building) in a 
 circle, looking like so many bee-hives, with a hole about 
 as large in proportion, through which they creep in and 
 out. Each wife has her own, and each one bears her 
 share of the burden. The men are lazy, self-indulgent 
 fellows. They enjoy their easy state of barbarism too 
 well to become easily Christianized ; Christianity, being 
 a religion of self-denial and moral restraint, strikes at the 
 root of all their sensual enjoyments. Christianity says, 
 " Up and be doing ;" but their feelings say, " Sit still ; 
 what good do we get by exertion ? We are comfortable 
 as we are here lying in the sun, chewing tobacco ; what's 
 the use of making ourselves uncomfortable ? " Yet they 
 can work if made to do so, and a white man standing by 
 to see they do not sit down and idle.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 17 
 
 A Caffre brought me a fine, fat young buck one day, 
 for which I paid him 2s. 6d. Butcher's meat is very 
 cheap, 2\d. a pound. Other things, which are imports, 
 are proportionately dear. The beef, however, is fearfully 
 tough ; mutton, which is dearer, is only occasionally to 
 be had. 
 
 June 22nd. — We gave a little dinner-party to some 
 gentlemen. Being my first effort at a party, I of course 
 felt a little anxious for the result, considering my Eng- 
 lish experience, and Natal apparatus and assistance; 
 two bars over a wood fire, the baker to roast our mutton 
 and bake our tart, Gudgeon and Jane to do all the rest, 
 while I was as busy as a bee in the house, getting out 
 glass, china, dessert, tea, coffee, and arranging to make 
 the waiting as easy as possible. I was greatly amused 
 when Jane brought my coffee into the withdrawing-room. 
 I said to her, "And the venison collops, Jane — we forgot 
 them ? " She laughed, and replied they were left in the 
 kitchen by mistake, and when Gudgeon discovered the 
 omission he said, " Well, I'm sure they didn't want 'em." 
 We had fish and soup, removed by fowls and ham, and 
 a leg of mutton, a tart and pudding, cheese and salad ; 
 a dessert, that would have cost something in England, 
 from our garden at Pazulu. 
 
 We shall not give many dinner-parties, however, for it 
 knocked me up, and there is not much either of pleasure 
 or profit. A chatty, old sly lawyer told me with a 
 knowing smile that I should not take so much trouble 
 with my dinners after I had been some time in the 
 colony. He seemed, however, fully to enjoy his share in 
 the feast. I fancy old Gudgeon must be rather witty, for I 
 cannot always make Jane hear when I call, and when she 
 does come in, she has an evident joke on her smiling face. 
 
 The mails at this time were very irregular. After a 
 three months' voyage, we had six weeks on shore before 
 a chance either of receiving or sending out English 
 letters. Two steamers were afterwards put on to carry 
 the mails between Natal and the Cape, but these were 
 again taken off to be sent to the Crimea, where they 
 were sunk. 
 
 C
 
 1 8 My African Home; or, 
 
 July, 1852. — This is our winter season. The weather 
 has been very cold, but still bright and clear. As we 
 have no fireplace in the house, I sit with my shag 
 cloak and fur boots on all day, and when in the hall I 
 add my bonnet. The African sands are blowing ; I am 
 surprised to find so much wind, with so hot a sun as pre- 
 vails. Perhaps that keeps the place healthy. There was 
 a fearful thunder-storm last week. Our pumpkins had 
 hailstones in them, like the grapes in the Vorarlberg on a 
 similar occasion once. We expected the windows to be 
 smashed, but they stood it all. The thunder rolled in- 
 cessantly, while scarcely an instant existed between the 
 flashes of lightning; the rain was in torrents, and filled 
 our great watercasks, hitherto empty. The storm lasted 
 four hours. There was not a shutter in the house; but, 
 though awestruck, I was not frightened. 
 
 The soft sand upon which the town of Durban is built 
 is a great drawback, the feet sink into it at every step, 
 boots and stockings get lined with it, and it may be 
 easily shaken out when they are taken off. The houses 
 seem rather slightly built, with very few fastenings to 
 keep out housebreakers. These, however, are never 
 heard of, though there are plenty of cheats and rogues. 
 The CafTres will take a knife or such-like thing, which 
 would be useful to them, but only occasionally. White 
 servants are more to be dreaded, and in my after ex- 
 perience I found it so, and worked with my own hands 
 rather than have them much about me. If the Caffres 
 could be really Christianized in heart and head, as well 
 as civilized, and made to feel their responsibility as 
 placed on this earth for a purpose, with immortal souls, 
 P P they might become a fine people ; but never, until God's 
 v)f j^own time, will that happen by the aid of man or mis- 
 % p sionary. Their conversion under the present system is 
 altogether ideal, and in many cases only serves a purpose. 
 They are not a simple, innocent, trusting people, to fol- 
 <* low where they are led. If their passions were roused 
 *? the men would be powerful, and the women energetic, 
 their acts probably without restraint. At present they 
 seem content to bask in the sun, and work when put to 
 
 .''
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 19 
 
 it, but they are very independent. They believe the 
 white race to be stronger than they ; and here the mis- 
 sionaries are at fault, telling them that white and black 
 are equal, whereas it can only be in brute-force that they 
 are so, until they are morally raised as a nation by edu- 
 cation, and the cultivation of mind and the arts and 
 sciences. They have little if any idea of God, and so 
 long as they have their appetites satisfied, they care as 
 little. Some of them appear to venerate or to fear 
 snakes, which they will not kill. 
 
 About this time, Jane went home for two days to see 
 her sick mother, and returning early in the morning 
 before the dew was off, and passing through a swamp, 
 she caught cold, and was speedily laid up with a kind of 
 rheumatic fever. And now old Gudgeon shone forth in 
 his best ; he became housemaid, cook, and waiter, as 
 well as sick nurse. I could not exert myself to do 
 much, and to make matters worse, became ill, and gave 
 premature birth to a child. A nurse was difficult to 
 find, and my kind husband undertook the place of 
 watching me ; while a kind neighbour, the gunsmith's 
 wife, living at the end of our garden, came in several times 
 a day to attend to me, bringing her own young baby of 
 a few weeks old, and placing it in a chair while she did 
 so. After I recovered I used to go and sit with this " 
 kind neighbour ; she had been one of the needlewomen 
 of London, and had made twelve gig shirts for eighteen 
 pence. She was married, and "it helped the rent in 
 very bad times ;" she sewed finer work also, for which 
 she was better paid. 
 
 Poor Jane got soon better, but the doctor said she 
 was too delicate for service, and had better be sent to 
 her friends, and so we lost her. Old Gudgeon nursed 
 her tenderly as if she had been his own daughter ; one 
 night my husband, hearing a stir in Jane's room, thought 
 she might need assistance, and pushing open the door 
 to inquire, stumbled against Gudgeon's head. " He 
 thought Jane was very ill, and might need help in the 
 ni^ht, and so he had brought his mattress and laid it 
 at the back of the door to be at hand ! " Poor Gudgeon 
 
 C 2
 
 20 My African Home ; or, 
 
 rather enjoyed the importance our illnesses gave him. 
 A lady called one day — Gudgeon opened the door, and 
 with a majestic wave of the hand, said, " You can't see 
 her, you can't see her," bringing blushes to the lady's 
 cheeks, when he bethought himself, and explained, " she's 
 ill, ma'am." 
 
 I became indeed very ill, and the doctor found a 
 nurse, not a professed nurse, but one who had nursed her 
 husband off and on, through nine months of low fever, 
 and to her incessant and skilful tender care, almost 
 more than to the doctor (so he said), did I owe, with the 
 blessing of the Almighty, my recovery. Four weeks I 
 lay with a raging fever, my husband scarcely leaving 
 the house for half an hour at a time, but I got well at 
 last, and found that a nice little wooden house was being 
 erected on the farm at Feniscowles, to which we were 
 to remove so soon as it was ready. Gudgeon was so 
 overjoyed when told I was getting better, that he went 
 off and got drunk ; he said he did not mean it and 
 was forgiven, and one day, my door being open, I spoke 
 to him as he was placing luncheon on the hall table, 
 his shoulders hitched up, and he became very busy in a 
 moment, and my nurse, Mrs. Brendon, told me that he 
 murmured, " I'm not to come near you, for fear I hurt 
 you." He had been told he would make me ill again 
 if he were not more careful in his behaviour. Where 
 he gets drink is a mystery, for he is never entrusted 
 with money ; perhaps his ready wit, and the laugh he 
 can create, procure him a glass of brandy at some low 
 store in the town. 
 
 A few days after this, an officer with his wife and little 
 girl landed at Durban on their way to Mantzberg ; they 
 had been acquainted with Leyland in England, and 
 having no lodgings in the town, he brought them to 
 our house from Friday to stay till Monday. In a colony 
 you are never expected to send any one away, and 
 visitors are easily accommodated. I was in bed, so of 
 course could take no part in the arrangements. Jane 
 had gone home to her friends, and poor Gudgeon had 
 been sent off again through his incurable drunkenness.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 21 
 
 A married couple, who were to live in an outhouse, were 
 engaged as servants to come on Saturday, and mean- 
 time my nurse, Mrs. Brendon, and my husband exerted 
 themselves to make all as comfortable as circumstances 
 permitted. Mrs. S. and her little girl slept in Jane's 
 little bed, my husband had a mattress on the floor of 
 the store-room, while Captain S. stretched his great 
 form on the bare boards of our parlour, wrapped in his 
 cloak, a better bed than he would sometimes find in the 
 bush up the country where he was going to hunt 
 elephants and other wild animals. Leyland, in his pity 
 for Mrs. S., half proposed that she should remain a few 
 days, while her husband rode up to Maritzberg and got 
 a comfortable house or lodgings for her, but when I 
 found she was near her confinement, I said she must go 
 with her husband for we could not afford to have another 
 to nurse just then, and so they left on the Monday. 
 
 The new servant was very efficient for a time, but her 
 husband was almost useless ; as I began to get better she 
 amused me with stories of life " up the country," where 
 they had been trading with a wagon. As my husband 
 had a cattle-farm in that country, and had had very 
 bad news of the cattle's unproductiveness and deaths, 
 the woman rather startled us by the tale she told. She 
 said, " They'll kill an ox, or let the Caffres do it for the 
 sake of the hide, and four Caffres will eat that ox up in 
 two or three days, and when it comes to be asked for, 
 1 it has died,' but there's nothing to show for it, and the 
 money is in the man's pocket. Nobody can prove it, 
 but such is known to be the fact, and one woman 
 quarrelling with her husband went and informed against 
 him." 
 
 August, 1852. — Letters from England ! Oh what 
 pleasure ! the mail has just come in bringing May 
 and June letters all at once, and a box is announced 
 for me ; I dare not hazard a guess at the nature of 
 its contents, but much I know there will be of sisters' 
 and a mother's love, and some enviable letters that 
 seem to be locked up in a cage ! When will they be 
 delivered? Ha! here they are, such lots of letters!
 
 22 My African Home ; or, 
 
 We have been reading them from twelve at noon till 
 candles came, and one was saved for the next day, 
 and I went to bed exhausted with excitement and 
 pleasure. 
 
 Excitements seem frequent here ; a fire in the town 
 was gently announced to me, and presently I discovered 
 it was within a few hundred yards of us, and thatched 
 houses between, so it was well the wind blew the 
 other way and did us no damage. Leyland was active 
 in subduing it. 
 
 We have had three days of Sirocco wind ! We 
 breathed heat. These were followed by rain coming 
 down in torrents, and nearly washing people out of their 
 houses. The spouts to the water tubs sounded like 
 waterfalls, and the frogs croaked and screamed in the 
 most extraordinary manner. Then all became bright 
 again. The common in front of our house is sometimes 
 rendered very picturesque by the outspanning of a great 
 wagon, with its team of twelve or fourteen oxen. The 
 party bivouac on the ground, lighting their fires, and 
 transacting business. The natives, too, look fine, inde- 
 pendent, strong fellows, stalking across the grass with 
 their chins up, snuffing the air, their arms swinging, 
 and long, bare mahogany legs striding one after the 
 other. They are an idle, luxurious race, basking in 
 the sun, and working only when they want food or 
 money. They may be veritable descendants of Ishmael 
 for aught I know, a wild nation living by their bow.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 23 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 October 8t/i, 1852. — Being a particular anniversary, we 
 made holiday of it, and rode out to the farm. The day 
 was charming, but hot. We arrived about noon and dis- 
 mounted at our new house. Two naked Caffres were 
 sitting in the rafters stitching the thatched roof. The 
 house is high and dry, a great point during the rainy 
 or hot season. A wooded hill lies at the back, sheltering 
 us from high winds, and as yet we must mount a very 
 steep hill to reach the place, after passing through a 
 verdant vale. We unpacked our luncheon, laid out our 
 refreshments, and took a turn to see what was going on, 
 while Mrs. Smith, the farmer's wife, killed and cooked a 
 chicken and some rice for us. We have plenty of 
 poultry, pigs, and cows, but they are tormented by the 
 wild animals, and the calves get sadly killed and eaten 
 by the tigers. As for fruits, vegetables, and flowers, 
 you have only to put the seeds and young plants in 
 the ground and they grow. There is no end of season 
 in Natal. I have eaten pineapple from our garden in 
 the winter, but its flavour is better in the warmer 
 weather. The papaw is a beautiful fruit and tree, 
 the leaves grow at the top, rising over the stem in 
 shape like a coronet (up which the fruit clusters like 
 small pumpkins), forming a shade like an umbrella. 
 This fruit has been introduced to the colony by Mrs. 
 Bowen, an old Welsh lady, who lives all alone on her 
 property near to Feniscowles, and we became very 
 intimate with her. The banana is a fine fruit, superior 
 to that produced in hot-houses in England ; to be en- 
 joyed it should be eaten like a slice of bread, and not
 
 24 My African Home ; or, 
 
 divided into small bits to go round the table as one 
 sees it done in England sometimes. There are not 
 many native fruits, most are imported, and all seem to 
 suit the soil and climate. 
 
 The native flowers are very exquisite, and in great 
 variety and luxuriance, with the waxy look of hot-house 
 plants. A white lily at this season blooming is the 
 perfection of beautv. I have one in a mug with sixteen 
 heads of flowers shooting out from their stem like a 
 plume of court feathers. The lily is white, with a rich 
 and delicate pink stripe down the centre of each petal, 
 the broad green leaf hanging down over the jar to the 
 ground is splendid. 
 
 As to birds and insects, the air teems with them. 
 Butterflies in all their beauty, dragon flies, and occa- 
 sionally a swarm of locusts will fly over the crops, settle 
 on them and destroy, as in the days of Pharaoh. Ants 
 of all sizes and shades : The white ant, the great enemy 
 of the colonist, devours anything it can penetrate in the 
 shape of wood or paper. Alas ! for our books, which I 
 had kept in such good order. When we returned to 
 England we packed them carefully in their large box, 
 to follow us ; half only arrived, in a mutilated state, 
 nibbled all round. An army of white ants had entered 
 up through the floor, made a hole in the bottom of the 
 box about two inches large, and entered from below, 
 eating upwards, and were never discovered till the box 
 was half empty ; when disturbed the army drew off 
 and disappeared as it had come, not one remained. 
 Fleas and ticks are another nuisance. Ticks are tiny 
 insects which bury themselves in the skin and live there 
 on your blood, unless you pull them out. Larger ones 
 — perhaps a different kind — torment cattle in the same 
 way, and I have seen the fowls at a wayside inn rush 
 out on the approach of a waggon, and jump up under 
 the oxen to pick out the ticks, which were the size and 
 shape of large bugs. I made a little sketch, while at the 
 farm, of our new house ; I seated myself on a bare fence 
 to escape insects, but on jumping down at Leyland's 
 call, I turned to get my parasol and saw a creature like
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 25 
 
 a leech, with a thousand feet, creeping up to my seat. 
 They call it a millepede. 
 
 Our new house stands upon legs or posts, we can see 
 under it and might possibly creep under if we chose. 
 There are only three rooms at present, parlour and bed- 
 room, with a garret above to have a stair up from the 
 little entrance, and in this our guests — when we have 
 any — must be content to sleep ! A wide verandah 
 surrounds the house, a most important addition in this 
 hot climate. 
 
 The news of the gold-diggings in Australia, with the 
 rumours of the Caffre War and its fears, have paralyzed 
 the place for a time, and half-crazed the people, who, 
 having lost money in Natal and found hardships, think 
 how delightful it would be to pick gold off the ground, 
 or earn twenty shillings a day as shepherds in Australia; 
 so near a hundred have sold up and sailed ; among them 
 are scamps, idlers, debtors, drunkards, and husbands 
 flying from the evils at home, to find greater abroad 
 most likely. One man was so afraid his wife would find 
 out he was going, that he left his certificate of being a 
 discharged soldier behind him. The vessel they are 
 gone in is very small ; the steerage passengers are 
 stowed like slaves to sleep, three in a berth, I am told, 
 divided from each other by boards. 
 
 A wreck up the coast, with accounts of cargo lying 
 high and dry, induced Leyland to go with Lloyd's agent 
 to the scene, 110 miles' ride along the coast. It was a 
 wild journey ; sometimes their horses had to swim the 
 rivers, sometimes they were detained by swollen waters, 
 and sleeping on the bare ground or in Caffre huts for 
 ten nights, and all for nothing. Arrived at the scene 
 of the wreck, everything was washed away but the 
 ship. 
 
 November, 1852 — Another illness has made my 
 husband threaten to send me back to England, lest he 
 lose me altogether, but I mean to try living up at the 
 farm first, f r our Durban house, which is built on 
 sand, stands in water after every severe rain, and there 
 are swamps all around. After two or three days' rain
 
 26 My African Home ; or, 
 
 we are nearly on an island. The workmen are so 
 dilatory at our little house at Feniscowles that we 
 resolved to take it by storm, so we chartered a waggon 
 with a few necessaries, mounted our horses, and prepared 
 to set out, Leyland carrying a spare saddle on his arm. 
 The farm is only four miles out, but the atmosphere 
 and scenery quite change the character of the country. 
 It forms a part of the Berea, or wooded hill, that stretches 
 round the bay. 
 
 Our white servants were leaving us ; we had had a 
 narrow escape of a well-spoken Scotchwoman from 
 Drummond Castle, so we engaged a fine, strong, tall 
 Caffre girl from the missionaries, called " Louisa." She 
 understands English pretty well, and appears to be willing 
 and quick, but I should not like her to put her hands in 
 the bread till I can teach her to be thoroughly clean 
 and nice in her habits, so I must be the bread-maker for 
 a time. She shrugs her shoulders, but does the thing I 
 tell her, but will not obey Gudgeon, who has managed 
 to get taken back. Before we set out from the bay, 
 Louisa came into the parlour in her pink print and 
 squatted herself on the floor, looking very resolved. She 
 " would not go with Gudgeon to the farm," she would 
 " go with missis." I explained that we were riding and 
 would go too fast for her ; then she would follow, but 
 not with Gudgeon, to whom she has taken a dislike. 
 How they arranged I know not, but both made their 
 appearance. She " was sorry there would be no school." 
 I undertook to teach her, so as soon as- she had washed 
 up she brought her Zulu Genesis, and I heard her read 
 her chapter ; I afterwards found she understood my 
 reading of Zulu better than her own, though I only 
 knew what I read by consulting my English Bible. 
 
 Another pupil is given me. The farmer's little 
 Margaret is a book-dunce, though a most useful little 
 housewife, and I have undertaken to try to teach her 
 to read, but from some natural impediment she has 
 difficulty in speaking plain. 
 
 The fresh country air and life did me good directly, 
 and I soon grew strong. We surprised the workpeople,
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 27 
 
 who were not over pleased to see us, by telling them we 
 were going to occupy at once. Shavings were on the 
 floor, no glass in the windows, none yet to be had in the 
 colony, except in use, so we tacked calico inside the 
 frames for glass, and except that it shut out the view, 
 it answered sufficiently for the rest. The windows — 
 one at each end of the room — opened in the centre 
 from top to bottom, and one was generally left open, 
 the wide verandah protecting us from the heat of the 
 sun. We have fairly taken possession, much to the 
 disgust of the workmen, who were enjoying the country 
 at pleasure and leisure. Now they will have to get on 
 a little faster. The views from the windows are pretty. 
 There is a site I should have preferred for the house on 
 the top of the hill, but Leyland feared we might be 
 blown away there, and we are quite near for the walk. 
 That view is grand, extending as far as the eye can 
 reach, and bounded on one side by the Indian Ocean, 
 at the entrance to which lies calmly embosomed our 
 peaceful-looking Bay of Durban. Balsams, gumcistus, 
 convolvulus, and all sorts of flowers grow wild all 
 around, bursting out from the sides of stones or shrubs, 
 creeping up the bushes, and hanging about in great 
 beauty and luxuriance. Mrs. Smith cooked our dinner 
 the first day ; we breakfasted under a tree, and instead 
 of tea I got a little soup warmed up. Our kitchen has 
 yet to be put Up ; it is a small iron house we have, and 
 until it is ready we must cook under the trees. 
 
 My Durban white servant came to us for a few days, 
 but some heavy rains drove her away, and we were left 
 with only Louisa and Gudgeon. Gudgeon would cook 
 and plagued us ; Louisa was willing, but knew nothing. 
 I many a time wished I had spent an hour a day in the 
 kitchen in England, for I felt as ignorant of cooking 
 almost as Louisa. She is a nice creature, but wilful, 
 and the difficulty of teaching her to understand in 
 English first what she is to do, then how she is to do it, 
 and lastly, seeing that she does it, is very fatiguing. 
 She comes to me, " What me do now?" Her mind is 
 active, and her body strong. If we can only have
 
 28 My African Home; or, 
 
 patience with her she may turn out a fine creature and 
 learn to be very useful, but you cannot reason with one 
 of another language, who has no ideas upon daily duties. 
 She reads pretty well in Zulu, and opens my English 
 books with a sort of longing look. She opened my 
 little sketch-book, I turned to where some figures were 
 squatted. " Oh, Caffres ! " she cried, with a merry 
 laugh. I pointed to herself under the tree, and Gudgeon, 
 but she did not think it like her. 
 
 She came to me on Saturday, "You know me want?" 
 
 " What do you want, Louisa ? " 
 
 " Me want go church, all man love God ; go church, 
 not work Sunday." 
 
 " Quite right, Louisa, you shall go to church. I can- 
 not walk so far, so we have church here to worship God. 
 You must come soon back at night." 
 
 " No ! me stay all night, me go church, me not work, 
 God rest." So I suppose we must help ourselves on a 
 Sunday in future. 
 
 She was back before seven in the morning on Monday, 
 having walked from the station, a distance of six or seven 
 miles. She said the service was part in English and 
 part in Caffre, and they taught her to read. She would 
 like to learn everything, provided I go with her, and do 
 as much as she. I asked if she would like to teach 
 her people. She replied, " Yes, but they not like to 
 learn." When she brings her " Genesis " and seats her- 
 self on the floor at my feet. I am reminded of the Eastern 
 saying of the maid sitting at her mistress's feet. It 
 sounds very pretty as a picture, a dark shining skin and 
 eyes, a pink frock, and the Bible in her hand ; but in 
 reality she is a great, clumsy, wallopping young woman 
 in rags, though she can sew well. But there is something 
 nice about her. and when she can understand us better, 
 we may be able to reason with and teach her many 
 things. She has taken a great fancy to my sketch-book, 
 and is always turning over the leaves. 
 
 We have papered our sitting-room and the vestibule 
 with the pretty white paper we brought from England ; 
 they look quite nice and cheerful. Our bedroom must
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 29 
 
 wait, for these work-people are so dilatory. We have 
 got a famous set of shelves put up — instead of pantry and 
 wine-cellar — to make us a little comfortable, for this room 
 has had to serve us for everything, bed-room, pantry, 
 larder, and store-room. If a visitor should arrive he 
 must be received among the shavings and workmen 
 or under the trees ! But all discomforts we feel trifling 
 in comparison with the purer air and beautiful scenery, 
 while the kitchen under the trees with our dark maiden, 
 the happy ducks and fowls picking about, are quite 
 romantic and picturesque. Moonlight is very beautiful 
 here — the clear, calm, starry heavens above, reading us 
 countless lessons upon the magnitude of creation, and 
 the wonders of the unseen worlds. 
 
 We have a small hut and garden in view, half-way up 
 the hill leading to the farmer's house. At first it was 
 an eyesore, a blot in the landscape, and I thought of the 
 story of the rich man who wanted to displace a poor 
 man's ugly little cottage, but not being able to do that 
 he planted it all around with pretty shrubs and trees, 
 and made it a beautiful feature in his landscape. I 
 thought we must do the same, for the man has a seven 
 years' lease. However, I find it a cheerful look-out ; 
 the little boy plnys about all day, and their garden is the 
 footway to Smith's house, so that life keeps moving 
 upon it. Moreover, a promise from my husband of a 
 few sugar-canes has set the man to dig, and it begins to 
 look a different place already. The man is a carpenter 
 by trade, and his wife is an industrious stayer-at-home, 
 who will wash a few things for us occasionally, so that 
 I am more than reconciled alieady. 
 
 I have a very interesting neighbour in Mrs. Bowen, 
 an old lady of seventy-five years, who lives alone in a 
 small house in a most lovely situation, with the Bay and 
 Durban as a foreground, and a rich garden in which she 
 spends great part of her day. She is the widow of an 
 officer, and has travelled and read a great deal. She 
 went out to South America with her younger son to 
 join another son there, found he was dead, and after 
 some stay at Rio Janiero, she and her remaining son
 
 30 My African Home ; or, 
 
 came to Natal, where the son presently died, and she 
 was left alone in the world. There was as yet no bury- 
 ing-ground consecrated in Durban, so she buried him 
 under a magnificent native tree in her garden, fenced it 
 round, planted it, and takes the greatest care of the 
 place. She is peculiar, and will not have any one to live 
 with her, nor any female about the place if she can avoid 
 it. She and I struck up an instantaneous friendship, 
 and before we left the colony she called us her son and 
 daughter. 
 
 Looking from the window just now I have seen a 
 cloud of locusts amongst our field of beans, and little 
 Henry Smith acting as scarecrow to drive them away. 
 But what can he do with such an army ? It is a lovely 
 day, but following a night of thunder, lightning, and rain. 
 I must put on my hat, and go and see how Mrs. Bowen 
 is after the storms, for they make her ill. 
 
 Mrs. Bowen was so glad to see me. It was her birth- 
 day ! She brought out fruit and wine, and gave me a 
 magnificent papaw fruit to take home. I had taken 
 little Henry and Margaret Smith for company. We 
 passed through a lovely green valley, amidst a dozen of 
 the largest oxen I have seen, with enormous horns. As 
 the children showed no fear, I could not pretend to be 
 afraid, and the oxen proved very quiet. Some Caffres 
 were washing in a stream ; the wild flowers smelling 
 deliciously, and gay butterflies revelling in the air. 
 Henry caught a lame locust, and brought it for my 
 examination. He showed me its teeth, which were sharp 
 and black, and its mouth opens thus )X(- 
 
 Ley land was absent on Sunday at Maritzberg ; Louisa 
 went off to church, and I was greatly surprised when 
 she returned at night, saying, " Massa in Maritzberg, and 
 node a man in charge" Gudgeon had gone off drunk 
 some days before, and we hoped he would stay away, so 
 I was alone ; but I always had my class of little Smiths 
 on a Sunday afternoon. 
 
 Leyland has hired another man and wife to live in the 
 cottage (prepared for Gudgeon), and to do our work. 
 Meantime, I have had his poultry to look after, and they
 
 LOUISA. 
 
 Page 31.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 31 
 
 now come flocking up to me, and some will feed out of 
 a spoon, and I quite enjoy them. Tiger-cats are a great 
 annoyance, they get into the poultry-house in the 
 night and feast. Poultry is of consequence in the 
 country, for butcher's meat so soon decays in the hot 
 climate that without fowls we should often be at a loss. 
 I sometimes, when in a strait, find myself, like the 
 children of Israel, " looking back to the flesh-pots of 
 Egypt." Servants only increase the difficulty by 
 making more to provide for, and they seem to do very 
 little work. The new ones are to cater for themselves, 
 however, which will make them more careful, unless 
 they go to the hen-house like the tiger-cat. 
 
 December i^th. — We have had quite an inundation of 
 men, who ought to be gentlemen. The manner of 
 hospitality in Natal is very different from that in Eng- 
 land. Your visitors pop in just at meal-time, or perhaps 
 after, and expect bed and board. The bed is easily 
 managed, people are not particular : a mat or mattress 
 on the floor, with a rug to cover them, will suffice for 
 accidental travellers. The board in a small family and 
 hot climate is not always so easy. For breakfast we 
 killed and boiled a chicken with rice, and broiled the 
 almost bare bones of beef; coffee and a good dish of 
 porridge, and all had plenty. Mr. Eastwood was staying 
 in the house, and three more came at dinner-time. 
 Sunday, too, when nothing can be got ! Their manners 
 and dress correspond with their free-and-easy entrance. 
 Two have been officers in the army ; one has a very 
 handsome, uninteresting face, with a shaggy beard. I 
 was thankful when they said good-bye and were gone. 
 
 I have drawn a pretty picture of my dark maiden, 
 Louisa, just such an one as the missionaries would seize 
 upon for their reports, which take with the benevolent 
 at home ; but it is the sunny side. She is a fine, able- 
 bodied creature, about five feet eight or ten in height, 
 and very stout and thick-set. She looks magnificent as 
 she appears coming up the steep hill out of the wood, 
 with her bucket of water on her head and branches of 
 green standing in it to keep the water steady, her form or
 
 32 My African Home ; or, 
 
 bench (for she has been washing) under her arm, and 
 walking erect. But, though active-minded, she is very 
 idle, spares labour on everything, is never anxious to 
 oblige, or to do a single thing she is not ordered to set 
 about. She loves eating as all Caffres do, and stuffs till 
 she is stupid, and then I have to do all, instead of three 
 parts of the work. She talks of love to God, but does 
 not strive to please her mistress, and, so far as I can 
 judge, she does not know that she is a sinner, and yet I 
 suppose she is as good a specimen of a convert to Chris- 
 tianity as most of those — the accounts of whom draw 
 tears — in books or at meetings. She went to church as 
 usual in the afternoon, but I told her she must be back 
 before six in the morning to make breakfast. She 
 arrived when I was washing the breakfast things and 
 putting them away, and expressed no regret. 
 
 December 2%th. — We have been to a wedding in 
 Durban ! We rode in early, dressed at our house, and 
 rode out again in the evening. The bride was a good- 
 looking girl of seventeen, dressed in white muslin, as 
 were also most of the ladies. The bridegroom, a power- 
 ful dark man, double her age, who has been long in the 
 colony, and has received a grant of land from Govern- 
 ment in acknowledgment of a special service he ren- 
 dered once by riding over the coast to give information 
 of an outbreak. 
 
 The wedding-breakfast, which was ample, was held 
 under an awning in the garden. The only carriage in 
 the place was hired for the day, and after taking the 
 bridal party to and from church, was sent round the 
 town to bring the guests. It was a light, covered van, 
 and the white curtains on this occasion were tied with 
 pink ribbons. I suppose the van had springs ; if not, it 
 certainly had the power of conveying them to its 
 occupants, for every jolt sent one almost right across to 
 the other side. 
 
 As we rode home in the evening, we passed a figure 
 sitting at a hut door. We pulled up and spoke, for in- 
 deed it was Mrs. E , whom I find living in the meanest 
 
 style. Another lady, to whom I brought letters, called
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 33 
 
 on me in Durban. She informed me she had been 
 scraping potatoes for her husband's dinner. I felt 
 shocked at the time, but I know better now. This lady 
 and her husband had been burned out of house and 
 home, and had lost everything ; but there are many who 
 just sink, some from want of spirit, some from falling 
 into the hands of sharpers, and many from ignorance 
 and want of capital to carry out what they begin. The 
 rogues in a new colony are the worst ; ever on the 
 watch to take advantage of their neighbour's innocence 
 or ignorance, and if there is money to get at it some way 
 or other. But for these drawbacks, Natal would be a 
 fine field for ploughing. It produces so rapidly. We 
 are eating beans in December that we planted in 
 November. 
 
 We kept Christmas Day as Charles Dickens would 
 approve. We entertained a large party at dinner in 
 the open air. Our table .was spread with a round and 
 a roast of beef, a plum pudding and custards, a couple 
 of ducks, with vegetables and fruits, ale and porter. 
 Mrs. Tyzack, our first servant or house-assistant, cooked 
 most of the dinner in town, and sent some and brought 
 the rest, along with her husband, four fine, fat, hearty 
 children, a baby and nurse, and Mr. and Mrs. Brenton, 
 my kind sick-nurse and her husband. Then we had 
 the Smiths, our farmer, and their five children ; the 
 Galliers and their two, from the hill side ; and two 
 gentlemen who rode out on horseback. All were as 
 happy and merry as possible. Leyland and I sat at 
 the top of the table, the twelve children on skins on the 
 grass. Mrs. Smith made us some excellent coffee, and 
 Brenton, who has been a butler, cut the bread and 
 butter so as to elicit applause. About six o'clock they 
 set out home again, having washed up the dishes and 
 made all straight before leaving. 
 
 Wh le speaking of servants I may mention that Bella 
 (our fellow- voyager's nurse) never goes out to walk 
 without getting an offer of marriage, but so far she turns 
 a deaf ear to all. She is a cheerful, tidy, useful woman, 
 and would be a treasure to some poor man, one of those 
 
 D
 
 34 My African Home ; or, 
 
 who have lost their wives through the hardships that 
 had to be endured when they first came to the colony 
 in its infant state, from which indeed it has not yet 
 risen. 
 
 A wolf was killed a day or two ago, not in fair fight 
 certainly. It had been prowling about for several nights 
 close to the house, and we feared for our poultry. An 
 ox died and the wolf got a supper off that, dragging the 
 ox into the bush ; it was tracked, and the remains 
 poisoned. In the morning the men found the wolf, a 
 very large one, in agony, and soon despatched it. They 
 have skinned it, stuffed the head, and put it outside our 
 door, by way of coat of arms or crest. 
 
 A bird's nest has been brought in, hanging from the 
 branch of a tree. The nest is entered by a long, bent 
 passage, like a chimney ; putting in my hand to the far 
 end, I brought out a young, half-fledged bird, poor thing! 
 It is not the only thing left motherless to-day ; the wolf's 
 cubs may cry long for their mother. 
 
 Louisa is a strange, untutored creature ; she observed 
 that I look out for my husband when I expect his return 
 of an evening. She came to me one day saying he was 
 visible. I went out to look, but he was hid from sight 
 by bushes. I stood a moment looking. Louisa came 
 behind (she is a sort of giantess), seized me round the 
 ankles, and lifted me into the air, to look over the bushes ! 
 I was powerless as a struggling infant in her grasp. At 
 last she set me down with a merry laugh at my dis- 
 comfiture. She has got a new blue frock now, and did 
 her best to wait at our Christmas party, as well as two 
 Caffres in their best, i. e. they wore a bob of scarlet 
 worsted the size of a pomegranate flower on their fore- 
 heads, and brass bracelets ; beyond a few strips of rags 
 the size of a philabeg hanging down before and behind, 
 their shining dark skin of nature's bestowing was their 
 only other covering. They drank our healths and 
 seemed to enjoy the fun as much as any of us. 
 
 Leyland and I walked over on Christmas morning 
 to our old neighbour, Mrs. Bowen, that she might not 
 feel quite alone in the world. We carried her a jar of
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 35 
 
 fine marmalade, but she has been beforehand with us, for 
 her gardener arrived ere we set out, with the compli- 
 ments of the season and a fine papaw from her arden. 
 The old lady was pleased to see us, but said it was a 
 bad day with her, and she looked it. Her eyes were 
 heavy and swollen. I was pleased to observe a Bible 
 and Prayer-book on her sofa, for what comfort can she 
 have in her lonely life equal to the Word of God and 
 prayer ? and from the account one of my servants gave 
 of her, I feared she was still living for the limited world 
 about her. She is peculiar — the fact of her living alone 
 in the wilderness proves that — she fears being ruled if 
 she should send for a relative, and her temper is very 
 hasty. The people think her rich, for she has employed 
 two gardeners ; but her garden is her delight, and her 
 personal wants are few. 
 
 Her house is within a walk of ours, so I went again 
 soon to see her, and to make a sketch of her beautiful 
 Caffre-tree and the view from her door. She asked me 
 to stay and partake of her early dinner ; this I declined, 
 for I had left our house empty, and not a handle yet 
 on a door ! but I saw her gardener bustling about from 
 the kitchen to the house, so I was not surprised to find 
 luncheon on the table when I had finished my sketch. 
 We had a good deal of conversation. Her mind is 
 wonderful. Her memory, reasoning powers, every 
 faculty perfect as in a young person, with a good touch 
 of romance to gild all she says and hears, and a rich 
 store of book knowledge and history, so that an hour's 
 chat with her is a treat in the wilderness of Africa, and 
 we grow daily greater friends. She told me of the loss 
 of her three sons and her husband, one in each of the 
 four quarters of the globe, and she took her garden key 
 and her stick, wearing her last son's straw hat, to show 
 me the tree under which he is buried, and to ask me to 
 come some day and make her a sketch of it. She con- 
 siders I am sent by God to be her friend, adding that 
 wherever she has wandered she has found one who can 
 feel like herself, and who has the same eternal interests 
 at heart. Truly was I glad to hear her speak in this 
 
 D 2
 
 $6 My African Home ; or, 
 
 way. In after years I partook of the sacrament with 
 her, as well as my husband, in her little thatched cottage 
 of two rooms, administered by Archdeacon Mackenzie, 
 whose painful end in the interior, when created bishop 
 to go among the natives, will be in the memory of 
 many. 
 
 When I returned home from my walk, " Turner," our 
 new man, brought me a small snake from the field, he 
 '•thought I might like to take it off! " He had seen me 
 drawing a caterpillar. I declined the snake, however. 
 
 Twelve Caffres are just shipped for England for a 
 show. They are trained to exhibit, so will not be seen 
 quite so natural as I see them. 
 
 At half past ten to-day I sent Louisa a message ; 
 she was so long away that I found I must make the 
 bread myself or we should be without, so I collected all 
 the requisites, mounted the ladder to our upper room 
 (the stairs not being yet up\ got down flour, rice, sugar, 
 meal, &c, came down again, and the bread was set to 
 rise before Louisa returned. I suspect she went to visit 
 the " good girl " who lives in a place near us, and whom 
 she has occasionally brought to have a chat with her in 
 our kitchen. 1 he little Smiths came over from the 
 farm to lunch off rice and jam, much to their satisfaction, 
 and their mother brought a jug of soup, and presently 
 Mrs. Galliers arrived with a fine papaw from Mrs. Bowen, 
 for whom she washes, and goes to assist in the house in 
 the mornings. My little pupil, Margaret Smith, will 
 never bring me much credit. There is some defect both 
 of speech and ear for sound. Again and again I tell 
 her the words and they are forgotten, yet she takes 
 pains. 
 
 As we cannot go into Durban to church, we collect 
 a small congregation at home, and read together. The 
 Galliers sometimes come with their little boy, and 
 ^r Smith's children are regular. 
 
 December 30///. — We have had a visit from the Caffre 
 magistrate and his three attendants on the subject of 
 clearing some bushland for a road Leyland wishes to 
 make. This important person wears a long white
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 37 
 
 flannel coat, edged with blue and red, and probably this 
 is all the dress he wears, except a round hat. He is a 
 stout man with bare black feet, and is called Captain 
 Tuta. His attendants were nearly naked, and fine- 
 looking men. 
 
 Louisa has gone off to visit her mother for a week. 
 She has only been eight weeks with me, yet she must 
 have as much holiday as she asks. 
 
 " Who will do your work, Louisa ? " said I. 
 
 " I don't know, ma'am." 
 
 " Am I to clean the pans, Louisa ? " 
 
 " Oh no, ma'am ! " 
 
 " Who then ? " She shrugged her shoulders, and 
 suggested " Boy." 
 
 " But Boy is busy in the garden ; don't you think you 
 could find me a good girl to do your work if I let you 
 go ? " 
 
 " No, ma'am, no CafTre girl, only one Caffre girl at 
 Mr. B 's." 
 
 " But you could find one, I think ? " 
 
 " No, ma'am, no girl, they all wife." 
 
 So I must manage as I can until Louisa chooses to 
 return. But with all her faults she is truthful and 
 honest. 
 
 I think before closing the year I must give a descrip- 
 tion of some visitors who came upon us unexpectedly. 
 As we were getting into bed, two sportsmen arrived 
 after a long day's ride, wanting to be housed, as they 
 would go to an inn. Ley land went and received them 
 and made them comfortable in our parlour, putting 
 their horses up in the stable. They were drenched with 
 rain, so he left with them our only bottle of brandy, 
 which was nearly full, and came to bed, leaving them 
 rugs and mats to lie on the floor. In the morning the 
 brandy bottle was empty ! Some time after these 
 gentlemen came again with a third on a Sunday. One of 
 the party was drunk, and I refused to have him in the 
 house. I was told he had fallen from his horse and 
 was hurt, so I could not send him away, but said he 
 must be taken to Gudgeon's cottage by the stable, so
 
 38 My African Home; or, 
 
 they took him there and we sent him his meals from 
 the house. This drunken fellow came to a sad end. 
 He bought a cask of wine, drank himself insensible, and 
 forgot to turn the tap. In the morning the barrel had 
 emptied itself on the floor, and the man was found lying 
 dead. 
 
 New Year's Day, 1853, an ^ midsummer heat with a 
 pleasant breeze! How differently has it been spent 
 from any New Year's Day hitherto. Busy all day with 
 little household matters, and Leyland in the garden 
 planting sugar cane. The little Smiths came for rice 
 and jam. They are a nice little set of useful children, 
 Alec, William, Henry, and Margaret, and I am trying 
 to teach them what will be of use all their lives. 
 
 A part of my New Year's Day work was making a 
 pudding for dinner, mixing a loaf for baking, and even 
 sweeping the floor, for Louisa stayed so long at the well 
 I had to do that myself. Our interesting old friend, Mrs. 
 Bowen, sent us a pretty note and a papaw to usher in 
 the new year. She brought the seed of ""his fruit into 
 the colony from the Brazils, but told me sho believed 
 it to be an Australian fruit. Without very much flavour 
 in itself it makes a very pleasant luncheon with a little 
 sugar and wine poured in and eaten with a spoon, and 
 it grows easily. The scent of the blossom is very 
 fragrant ; the male blossom resembles the orange 
 flower, but is stronger and coarser. The wild flowers of 
 Natal have frequently a fine perfume ; to walk along 
 bush or field is a perpetual nosegay of sweet odours. 
 Wild honey, too, has a fine flavour ; but I have not tried 
 the flavour of the locusts. Our garden is planted with 
 pineapples and beans rather than with flowers, which 
 grow wild in such abundance, that there is less need 
 for them in the gardens. 
 
 Our first Sunday in 1853 was strangely spent. Louisa 
 set off to church so soon as breakfast was over, Turner 
 would be absent till afternoon, and we were left entirely 
 alone. Rain came down towards afternoon more and 
 more heavily, and we knew no one would attempt to 
 come through the rain that evening, so we managed for
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 39 
 
 ourselves. Our kitchen hitherto has been in the open 
 air, part of the time under the trees, and latterly in a 
 small space Turner has wattled round open to the sky. 
 The iron house is up, but has no chimney, so when the 
 smoke is blown it is unendurable, except for Caffres, 
 who are used to living in smoke in their craals. We have 
 a grate in our sitting-room, an unusual luxury, given 
 by a dear sister in England ; and with plenty of wood 
 we can make ourselves cheerful. On this wet Sunday 
 evening we did as we could, and warmed our cocoa over 
 a saucer with burning spirits. Next morning I looked 
 out ; it was still raining, but a Caffre was standing ready, 
 so I set him to light the fire and put the kettle on, and, 
 after giving the fowls their mealies, set about preparing 
 our own breakfast. A neighbour called while I was so 
 engaged with my old bonnet on, and looking doubtless 
 very like a housemaid. My nurse had told me that she 
 sees very few ladies ; that she should make as good an 
 one as most so-called out here, and she " would make 
 a mess of it." 
 
 Dreary as a wet day makes us look, I must describe 
 our sitting-room on a fine one. 
 
 It is a midsummer evening, the fresh breeze that 
 made the sun's heat pleasant through the day is lulled ; 
 our room is light, airy, and cheerful, a window opening 
 to the floor at each end, the walls papered with white, 
 no carpet of any description on the white-boarded floor, 
 as little furniture as possible, and that of the most 
 motley description and all of it for use, harmonizing 
 well, and in character with the country, which yet — in its 
 infancy as an English colony — has not reached the 
 point of either elegance, refinement, or luxury. A light 
 table of yellow wood is in the centre, a cupboard of the 
 same in one corner containing chma cups and saucers, 
 a Christmas cake, bottles, raspberry vinegar, and other 
 sundries, entitling it to the name of a Scotch-cupboard. 
 A side table, also of yellow wood of the country, is 
 covered with crockery in daily use. Some bottles of 
 porter are underneath, and our bread is in a great mug. 
 In another corner stands for the present my mahogany
 
 40 My African Home ; or, 
 
 travelling chest of drawers, dear little Helen's bookstand 
 on the top, my husband's revolver in its case, and his 
 cornopean and music-book, a source of frequent and 
 agreeable recreation. Amongst various airs, the mail- 
 coach bugle-blast is a favourite, recalling days long gone 
 by. Our joiner on hearing it the other day said it 
 brought the tears to his eyes. Still nearer the corner of 
 the room, stand two baskets full of newspapers, strings, 
 corks, &c, &c, and my drum workbasket, above which, 
 resting against the wall, are two curious birds' nests, 
 one with eggs in, beautifully woven, among reeds and 
 branches. In another corner of the room are glasses 
 and knives on a tray stand ; and American cane chairs 
 make up the furniture, my sofa-chair looking quite 
 patriarchal amongst the others. Beautiful views from 
 both windows, and two doors. One enters our bedroom, 
 the other into the vestibule, which I convert into a 
 butler's pantry, and am sometimes caught in consequence 
 by a visitor while washing the china and glass.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 41 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 January, 1853. — We have a beautiful brood of white 
 chickens from the bantams, seventeen in number, pure 
 white sturdy little things. Our poultry are a great 
 pleasure, but also an anxiety on account of wild animals, 
 who are as fond of them as we are. A tiger has been 
 heard about lately in the evenings, and on our return 
 from a call at Mrs. Bowen's, both Turner and Louisa 
 asked if we had not heard the tiger, as they had, close 
 to our path ! Afterwards they heard a wolf ; so we have 
 pleasant neighbours, but met neither. They prefer our 
 calves and poultry. Hawks also fly away with an 
 occasional chicken. Turner came in a great hurry for 
 the gun one day " to shoot a serpent that was sitting up 
 a yard high very near the house." Of course it did not 
 wait to be shot, and he brought back the gun dis- 
 appointed. Wild animals, however, retreat further into 
 the bush as man takes possession. A few years ago 
 elephants and lions frequented our neighbourhood, now 
 nothing is seen of the former but a white mark on a 
 tree, made by their scratching their shoulders against 
 it, and only one lion was seen during the five years I 
 was in the bush ; but the footsteps of tigers or panthers 
 were frequent in our garden walks. The Smiths heard 
 a large snake in the bush one day and saw its bed, but 
 the reptile was out of sight. Afterwards they heard the 
 crunching of bones, but did not feel inclined to disturb 
 it ; poor Smith thought of his children, but they were 
 all safe. 
 
 Louisa returned from her week's holiday on the 10th. 
 How we got along during her absence I know not, but 
 we pulled through somehow. We had some strange
 
 42 My African Home ; or, 
 
 visitors one night. A number of oxen strayed into our 
 garden, trampling all over the newly-planted pine-beds. 
 Scarcely a square yard was unmarked by their clumsy 
 feet, yet singularly enough not above a dozen plants, 
 out of several hundreds, had been trodden on. Instinct 
 must have made them avoid the pricks. 
 
 We cannot get the joiner to come regularly to finish 
 our house. The handles are still off the doors, and the 
 staircase is not yet up- to our room above. While in 
 this unfinished state a lady arrived from England, to 
 join her brother, who had a farm beyond Maritzberg. 
 She brought a letter of introduction to me, but, hearing 
 she was comfortably housed with a fellow-passenger in 
 Durban, I did not think it necessary to offer to take her 
 to our house at once, till I received a broad hint from a 
 gentleman that I was not doing my duty, so I wrote to 
 the young lady, told her how I was situated, but that if 
 it would be a convenience to her I should be happy to 
 see her. And so, without farther notice, she hired 
 the town van to bring her out, which, being very 
 light, and our roads very steep and rough, was upset on 
 the way. Little Margaret Smith came running across 
 to say, " A lady would be with us in a few minutes ;" 
 and to be sure she was — carried up in the driver's arms. 
 She threw herself half- fainting on the sofa-chair ; then 
 we got her up the ladder to bed, which I had luckily 
 made ready, and there she stayed, and, as I was still not 
 very strong (after my fever) for climbing up and down a 
 ladder, I got little Margaret Smith to come over and be 
 her nurse, and our guest stayed with us for ten days 
 or a fortnight, most of the time in bed. 
 
 Her exit was equally unceremonious. She wrote to 
 her brother to come for her, and one forenoon a wagon 
 made its appearance with her brother. She got out of 
 bed, packed up her things with Margaret's help, and was 
 gone ! We had the doctor out to see her, but he did 
 not seem to think there was much wrong with her 
 health, poor thing ! she was depressed - alone in the 
 desert ! 
 
 It is a great treat to me to go over and sit half an
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 43 
 
 hour with old Mrs. Bowen. There is so much of freshness 
 and rich lore in her conversation. I have made a sketch 
 for her of the tree under which her son is buried. I 
 found her packing a box to send to England. She said 
 she was sending away everything of value, for when 
 she died she did riot know what hands might get 
 hold of " the old woman's things." I was glad to see 
 a well-worn Bible lying at hand, and some remark of 
 mine touched the right chord. She spoke openly to 
 me of her trust in her Saviour, and is glad to find 
 one who can understand and respond to her feelings on 
 this subject. And yet she is one who is openly talked of 
 as a shrew, and a most ungovernable and unamiable old 
 vixen ! She is an elegant poetess, a great reader, and 
 clear reasoner ; a good gardener, a perfect treat in an 
 intellectual conversation. But she likes her own way, 
 and fears being taken in. She is quite a lady in mind 
 and manner, with a high tone of feeling and of .prin- 
 ciple, and considerable experience of the world and its 
 ways. It is a great privilege to me to live within an 
 easy walk of her house, while, turn which way I will 
 on other sides, I find nothing but fraud, malice, and 
 deceit, and often a great deal of vulgarity and ill-breed- 
 ing, from which in various ways we suffer. 
 
 Leyland having to go to Maritzberg about this time, 
 I found myself entirely alone, even Louisa away. 
 Mrs. Smith sent one of her little boys to sleep in the 
 room upstairs, that I might not feel so entirely alone in 
 the wilderness ; but I had no fear. I took the little bell 
 to my bedside, stuck a pair of scissors under the door 
 which opens into the garden, and had not yet got a 
 handle or bolt, and slept soundly. We shut the great 
 dog up in the stable for fear of a tiger getting him ! 
 
 The new road in the bush, which my husband is 
 making, being partly clear, Mrs. Smith and her family 
 came over next day to try it in the cool evening. We 
 all set out together, Smith leading. We pushed through 
 about ten yards of bush in single file with only a few 
 scratches, and found ourselves in a capital path, most 
 romantically surrounded by shrubs and creepers, meet-
 
 44 My African Home ; or, 
 
 ing overhead at times. Presently we reached the flag- 
 staff on the top of the hill, and had a splendid view of 
 the bay, the sea, and Durban lying below us or rather 
 beyond us, for the hill seems trifling in the comparison. 
 It will greatly shorten the distance into Durban. The 
 want of roads forms a great drawback to farmers and 
 settlers of all kinds, and Government is not very kindly 
 thought of for turning a deaf ear to petitions. A small 
 sum wisely laid out would prove an immense advantage 
 in a few short cuts, and through less hilly and less 
 swampy, and soft, sandy paths, which weary the feet of 
 the oxen or horses. The farmers are all poor as yet, 
 and cannot make roads, and the governor will not move 
 in the matter without certain assistance being promised, 
 which the people are too poor to give. They think they 
 are taxed sufficiently for the support of a mock aristo- 
 cracy of rulers and-under-rulers, and subs, for even the 
 under-rulers. 
 
 Leyland's description of his journey to Maritzberg is 
 so different from English travelling that I must write it. 
 After striking into the bush-path to shorten the distance 
 to the high road, and having ridden about two hours, it 
 became suddenly so dark, as of an impending storm, 
 that he could not distinguish the path Fearing to lose 
 himself he dismounted, let the horse eat grass beside 
 him, and lay down under a bush to rest until the moon 
 should rise. No storm came clown, so he got a good 
 sleep, having first eaten a hard-boiled egg I had put in 
 his pocket. He had nothing wherewith to get a smoke ! 
 The moon was late, but it had risen when he awoke, 
 and he proceeded on his way. Almost immediately he 
 found the path, and at about half a mile's distance came 
 to the house where he should have slept, f -I e got oats 
 for his horse, a glass of brandy and water for himself, 
 and a cigar, and went on for a couple of hours. Then 
 his horse became tired, so he found his way to a Caffre's 
 craal, got a few mealies, as a great favour, for sixpence, 
 a drink of sour milk for himself, unsaddled, took out of 
 his pocket one of his scones, ate part, and gave the rest 
 to the Caffre's children, and then rode on again for about
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 45 
 
 fifteen miles more, when he came up with Mr. 
 
 Dutchman, who invited him to go to his farm for the 
 night, and go into Maritzberg, which was very near, 
 before breakfast. And this he did, riding on with the 
 kind Dutchman another ten miles. This weary ride 
 was undertaken with a bad boil, called Natal-sore, on 
 his foot. These sores are very common, few escape 
 them. Scratching tick or flea-bites irritates the flesh, 
 and if not in good condition it festers, and produces 
 painful sores or boils. I never suffered from them my- 
 self, but scarcely any one I met did not know from 
 experience what they were. The ticks bury themselves 
 under the skin, and live there ; few can help scratching. 
 I have walked to old Mrs. Bowen's through the grass, 
 and found my white petticoat covered all over with 
 these tiny creatures, and I have walked there without 
 having one, so they must come under certain winds and 
 states of atmosphere. X"<s* « 
 
 About this time (February, 1853) I observed a smartly- 
 dressed Caffre man came occasionally to pay his respects ^- ^ 
 to Louisa. I guessed what the result must be, so I spoke 
 to her, and she frankly tells me she "tink she like him. 
 Him pray in me in church." And soon she told me when 
 I paid her wages, that she must go away, and live at the 
 mission where her lover is ; and so she set off, crying 
 when I told her she ought not to leave me unprovided 
 with another, it was ungrateful after all I had taught her. 
 She shrugged her shoulders and was very sorry, but 
 selfishness prevailed, and she set off there and then. 
 Louisa has interested me greatly. She has considerable 
 reasoning powers, and was so desirous to learn to read 
 English, and was beginning to speak and understand it 
 so well, that I woncier she did not see her interest in 
 remaining a little longer. She was very truthful ; only 
 once have I known her persist in an untruth. I have 
 known her after a first denial and a little hesitation say, 
 " Yes, ma'am, I d d." She took a great fancy to my 
 India-rubber galoshes, telling me they were too large for 
 me, and when I found them split down the front I 
 accused her of trying them on her own great foot. She
 
 46 My African Home ; or, 
 
 denied, but I fear she had done it. Louisa is only six- 
 teen years old, but full-grown, and her lover is twenty. 
 Under a missionary she may become useful to her 
 people, though her knowledge is scanty, and her mental 
 education slow. She tells me she is a fugitive Zulu 
 from Faku's country, where her father was killed. Her 
 mother snatched her up on her back, and as she was 
 running off, the child got struck on the back, where she 
 always feels a pain during a cold. She would on no 
 account go back to Faku's land. All in Natal are 
 similar fugitives, and prefer being under English rule, 
 as safer and less tyrannical. 
 
 Curiously enough, Louisa's back was scarcely turned, 
 when a young Caffre lad came to offer himself, telling me 
 he could do everything ; so, thinking he would do as well 
 as Louisa with a little instruction, "Ginger" was engaged, 
 and three gentlemen are coming to dinner on Monday. 
 Mr. White, the elephant hunter, is one of them. Turner 
 will help in the kitchen and in waiting, and perhaps 
 Mrs. Smith, who cooks well, will come over. Turner, 
 however, is leaving soon. I find " Ginger " is really a 
 nice, handy, good-tempered Caffre ; but his is a strange 
 race ; selfish, indolent, free, independent fellows, " living 
 in the presence of their brethren," and taking no manner 
 of responsibility upon them. Give them their wages to 
 the day, and their " scoff," alias food, and their bond 
 with you is ended ; they rarely care for you excepting 
 as suits their interest. I have been told that the harder 
 you use a Caffre, the better he behaves. Of this I 
 cannot speak ; but one of the Caffres working for my 
 husband asked for a little sugar, of which they are all 
 very fond, so not only he but the whole six had a hand- 
 ful given them in good nature ; so next day they turned 
 out for better scoff, and five of the seven walked off on 
 its being refused, knob-stick in hand, and until they 
 want money or food they will not come back. Smith 
 says, " Few get such good scoff as Mr. Feilden's Caffres." 
 They know no hardships beyond hunger, and that they 
 can appease by work. They can sleep on the bare 
 ground in any craal, and roam at will during the day.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 47 
 
 Their manner of sleeping in cold weather is to make a 
 fire in the centre, and they lie in a circle round it, their 
 feet towards the fire and heads on wooden pillows. 
 They desire nothing more, except a few beads to 
 decorate their persons. They are very acute, but have 
 neither generosity, gratitude, nor desire to oblige. They 
 do what you bid them if you are there to see, but 
 nothing more. They feel the English Government is 
 mild with them, and know how to take advantage of it ; 
 but, were a sufficient motive to stir them, they would rise 
 to a man against their gentle rulers. Such, at least, is 
 my impression at this early date of my acquaintance. 
 
 It is a curious fact that all the servants who offer for 
 our place can, or say they can, do everything. We have 
 just engaged a man and his wife named Welsh, who are 
 thankful to come and seem decent enough people, though 
 not regular servants. I hope I shall find the wife a help 
 in housework ; but I am learning, like themselves, to 
 become a Jack-of-all-trades and master of none. I bake 
 very good bread, mix a capital meat pie, examine the "leg 
 of beef," here sold for gd. a leg, prepare it both for soup, 
 hot pot, and boiling, and prepare the marrow-bone, and 
 really, except for the fatigue and labour to one unac- 
 customed to such work, it is the most comfortable way. 
 The oven part is the worst. A bake-pan is placed over 
 a fire of wood in our oven and wood is put on the lid. 
 This fire has to be constantly watched by a Caffre, to 
 keep it at the right temperature; but a Caffre cannot be 
 made to understand why one large fire should not 
 suffice, and let him go play while it burns, so unless you 
 watch, and run out every now and then to see if he is 
 attending to the fire, your loaf gets burnt to a cinder in 
 the lower crust half an inch thick, and your pie-crust is 
 sodden when the meat is baked hard. The lessons I am 
 learning in cookery, however, will never come amiss, and 
 I learn many things. 
 
 " Ginger " does very fairly. I have made him a tunic 
 of white calico — not long white, alas ! — and, though not 
 a Christian, he comes in for prayers and sits on a chair 
 while the chapter is read, with his arms crossed and a
 
 48 My African Home; or, 
 
 grave expression of countenance. He knows God made 
 him, and says he understands the reading, but I imagine 
 he means that the sound of the words is familiar, for 
 I don't think he knows enough English to comprehend 
 the sense. In time, if he stay, we may teach him some- 
 thing ; but they are a wandering tribe, and stay not 
 long in one place. For a month Ginger was our only 
 house-assistant, and I taught him to be very useful, but 
 when I sent him into Durban for the meat he stayed so 
 long that I invariably had that day's work to do myself. 
 My neighbour, Mrs. Galliers, had too* much of her own 
 work to do, and of Mrs. Bowen's, to come and help, and 
 I used to feel it quite cheerful to see her little boy lead- 
 ing about his infant sister, who was often left in his sole 
 charge a whole day. He was only about five years 
 old, but he never deserted or left his little sister for his 
 own play. I hoped to find a great relief when Mrs. 
 Welsh came, and so, for a short time, I did ; but she 
 had a family of four children, and her husband's and 
 their food to prepare and house to keep, so her 
 thoughts are more in her own house than mine, and her 
 feet also. 
 
 February, 1853. — The tiger-cats break into the hen- 
 house as cleverly as professed London thieves. We had 
 been watching for one of these animals which had regularly 
 supped off a few of our fattest fowls for several evenings, 
 and had contrived to get off with a favourite brown hen 
 who was sitting over her chickens under our house. 
 Leyland and his gun were out at the first cry of distress 
 more than once, but the tiger-cat always managed to 
 retreat to the bush, generally with its prey. One night, 
 however, Leyland rushed out with his gun and went in 
 pursuit on the track ; the tiger-cat had dropped the hen 
 and made off with all speed, and not being satisfied with 
 its supper, it went across to the farm (later on) to the 
 poultry-house there. The noise quickly roused the 
 farmer, who with a bull's-eye lamp, and his wife behind 
 him in her night-dress, went straight to the door of the 
 hen-house, when the animal sprang past him, dashing 
 the lamp out and" slightly scratching his hand. Next
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 49 
 
 night the tiger cat returned, made a hole at each end of 
 the hen-house thatch, put his head in at one, and the 
 fowls all rushed out at the other, flying about in every 
 direction, and the tiger-cat after a fine young cock that 
 escaped as far as the cook-house, but was brought down 
 there. An ambuscade was laid the following night, how- 
 ever, and when he came to regale himself as usual he 
 received five or six shots from Smith's gun, and the 
 Caffres with their knobkerries (a strong wooden stick 
 with a ball at the end) soon secured the beast, carried it 
 over in triumph to our house, and laid it at midnight at 
 our bedroom door, which opens into the garden. We 
 were up in a moment ; I threw my dressing-gown over 
 my shoulders and seated myself in the open doorway, 
 squatting on the floor. The scarce dead animal was 
 lying on the ground, below me seven or eight naked 
 Caffres, headed by Smith, formed a half-circle round, 
 laughing, and addressing the still warm animal in abusive 
 terms, singing and dancing in their measured steps, 
 waving their knobkerries up and down ; a full clear 
 moon lighting the strange scene, and forming a sin- 
 gularly wild, romantic picture with its broad shadows. 
 After they had sufficiently enjoyed their triumph they 
 carried it off again to a place of safety for being stuffed 
 as a trophy. 
 
 March, 1853. — The rapid and rich vegetation of the 
 climate is marvellous. We have been only about six 
 months at our Feniscowles. At first nearly all around 
 us was bush, and required clearing, and already we have 
 a thick double hedge of Mauritius pea nearly six feet 
 high, bearing abundantly ; a double row of sunflowers, 
 all planted from seed, tall and full of handsome flowers, 
 eight or ten beauties on a stem, and the green leaves 
 near a foot wide. We have an orchard of papaw-trees, 
 and a quantity of pineapples planted, a few sugar canes 
 which grow well, and a field of the cotton-tree. The 
 wild flowers are beyond description, beautiful, brilliant, 
 and luxuriant, most of them having the clean, shiny leaf 
 of hothouse plants in England. It was grievous to sec 
 them rooted out of the ground in clearing, to " put 
 
 E
 
 50 My African Home; or, 
 
 better things in," for indeed they* were weeds, in the eye 
 of the farmer. Natal was surely intended for a fine 
 country, for everything will grow that is put into the 
 ground ; but it is all a wilderness. However, I hear that 
 people's faces are growing shorter now than they looked 
 a while ago ; the Dutch farmers are coming into the 
 interior, and they will increase traffic. The Dutch are 
 not generally fond of the English, having met with some 
 hard usage a few years ago ; neither do the Caffres look 
 very pleasantly upon them from the entirely contrary 
 reason, viz., that they have been too leniently dealt with 
 and are too independent to make useful subjects or 
 servants, and they know they can't be compelled. It 
 does seem rather hard to oblige a people to work that 
 can and prefer to live without, but the Caffres are not 
 natives, but refugees, and their work, even while paid 
 for, might have been a part of the bond of protection. 
 Caffre Ginger works very fairly. He has a wife some- 
 where, but wants another, so his work now is to get 
 money to buy cows, and the cows are to procure him 
 another wife ! 
 
 April, 1853. — Glass has at last arrived in the colony, 
 and we hope soon to get some to replace our calico 
 windows, which, besides shutting out the light, show stains 
 of rain. Our winter is coming on, and calico alone be- 
 tween us and the weather will be rather cold. The broad 
 verandah has hitherto protected us nearly sufficiently, but 
 on one or two occasions doors and windows (still without 
 fastenings) have been blown about, and rain has been 
 troublesome. Our books, occupying some very un- 
 protected shelves, had to be removed in a grand hurry. 
 On these rainy days our parlour grate is a great luxury 
 as well as most useful, for we cook our breakfast and 
 use the room as a genteel kitchen, not allowing the 
 Caffres its free use, but making ourselves our own 
 servants. I have set a gentleman visitor to watch the 
 baking of my scones, like King Alfred of old, but I do 
 not remember if he allowed them to burn. Some of 
 the sportsmen are capital cooks, and ready on an 
 emergence. One, well known by his book of sports —
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 51 
 
 since published ' — taught me how to make a savoury 
 omelette, and most excellently it turned out. 
 
 I have had the pleasure of a week s visit from my 
 kind nurse, Mrs. Brenton, who has benefited in more 
 than one way by the change. The fresh air and chatting 
 with me have raised her spirits, which were very low 
 on their reduced prospects, owing to the long illness of 
 her poor husband. They talk of going to Australia, as 
 they can't get on in Natal, and money is not so scarce 
 in that country. Mrs. Brenton occupies the room up- 
 stairs, or up the ladder, for the staircase is still hanging 
 only half up, and we cannot get the joiner to work 
 steadily at it to finish while he is about it. He will 
 come one day and go away for a week or two. On the 
 occasion of one of his visits he contrived to put one 
 handle on a door. It is surprising how safe we feel in 
 the bush, so very slightly protected : neither bolts nor 
 bars, and calico in our window-frames. I shut the door 
 by means of a pair of scissors stuck under. Oh ! how I 
 grumble at the joiner, " Reddish," when in trying to get 
 it open I break my nail. 
 
 1 William Baldwin, Esquire, author of " African Hunting from 
 Natal to the Zambesi." 
 
 E 2
 
 52 My African Home ; or, 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 I HAVE quite a large class on Sunday afternoons. The 
 Smiths and Welshes come, and we have Catechism and 
 reading, and the " Pilgrim's Progress," with which the 
 children are delighted, and though they receive it now 
 as a story, it will return to their understanding when 
 they grow up. The two little girls come to me daily 
 for a lesson in reading. The mothers are very thankful 
 I will take the trouble, for they are so very busy through 
 the week that they are only too glad to rest on Sunday. 
 One had given over teaching in despair, for the child 
 was so slow that at ten years old she could not say her 
 letters, and no attempt had been made to teach the other 
 child. Yet the parents are well-educated women. As 
 the colony advances, so will the opportunities of learning 
 increase, but at present, from all I see and hear, the 
 amount of ignorance amongst the children of respectable 
 emigrants is fearful to contemplate. Missionaries for the 
 white children would be a much more hopeful enterprise 
 than for the coloured population. Of the families who 
 have gone out, hoping to grow rich by farming, most 
 have spent their all in bringing the land into cultivation. 
 Before it yields a sufficient return, many are reduced 
 to give up, and go as farm-servants to others. Then the 
 children are required at home to take care of the babies 
 and cook their parents' dinners, fetch wood and water, 
 &c. It is thus with the Welshes, and if the mother does 
 not come to do my work, I know she is busy at home, 
 and often do it myself to spare her. In fact it would be 
 a good lesson for ladies in the middle or upper classes 
 in England just to see in a young colony what others have 
 to go through in order to live at all. I feel as if I never
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 53 
 
 dare murmur again at anything which may befall me, 
 so long as I have food and shelter, and the decencies of 
 life, as distinguished from its luxuries. It strikes one 
 more in a colony, because the sufferers are by no means 
 from the lowest of the people, but have had good edu- 
 cation, and been in good situations and positions in 
 England. Some, too, have not known what work was, 
 but have become reduced by poverty from a considerably 
 higher grade in life. There is extreme poverty in Natal, 
 but you meet with no beggars or rags in the streets. 
 Those who can scarcely get a sufncent meal will be seen 
 with a silk dress, perhaps, on a Sunday, unless they have 
 been obliged to sell it. But most look forward still with 
 hope. 
 
 The sugar cane grows well on the coast-land, and 
 sheep do well in ihe interior. 1 he Dutch are again 
 beginning to " trek " from the old country, and to settle 
 in the higher parts of Natal, on their sheep-farms, hoping 
 for better government than they have hitherto expe- 
 rienced. Caffre labour will be a difficulty with settlers, 
 and people talk of sending for coolies. The missionary 
 question is a serious one. I cannot pretend to give an 
 opinion of its merits, but the working effects are cer- 
 tainly deficient, and I am told that the missionaries find 
 their converts unsatisfactory. My experience in Louisa 
 was certainly unsatisfactory, and she was a fine, clever 
 creature, and a good specimen, but innately indolent and 
 selfish, with a strong native stubbornness of disposition. 
 As far as I conld make out from her, the natives worship 
 nothing at all. To eat, drink, snuff, smoke ; to sit on 
 the ground and chat, and to stalk over the country doing 
 noth ng, seem the extent of life's business and enjoy- 
 ment, unless when they want to buy cattle, and then 
 they hire for work. A number of oxen may have 
 strayed and got amongst your vegetables, or a tiger-cat 
 may be disturbing your hen-roost, but a Caffre will 
 never stir to drive them off till he is roused by his 
 master and sent. What he believes himself bound to do 
 he will do, if your eye is kept over him, and no more. 
 Ginger refused to clean the boots of a gentleman who
 
 5 i My African Home ; or, 
 
 was staying in our house, saying they were not his 
 master's boots. I made him clean them, but again he 
 declined cleaning Mrs. Brenton's when she stayed with 
 me. He eyed them all over, as if measuring, looked at 
 my foot, and shook his head. I told him he must clean 
 them, and I believe he did, but I was not strict to 
 inquire, and after a struggle of this kind for mastery, 
 though I succeeded at the moment, I did not generally 
 try it again, lest I should come off the loser. 
 
 I have had a strange set of visitors, some naked 
 C a fires, Ginger's relations and friends ; his three sisters, 
 his father, and a brother or two — as such he introduces 
 them. They arrived at midday yesterday, bringing 
 meat with them, which they cooked in our kitchen, and 
 made themselves quite at home there, declaring their 
 intention of staying all night. Of course I got no work 
 from Ginger during their visit. Very merry they were, 
 laughing and singing (if singing it could be called), 
 Ginger the while looking on as grave as a judge. The 
 girls seemed to make all the fun. They made me blush 
 and laugh in spite of myself. Their dress was a close- 
 fitting dark rag round their loins, ornamented with 
 beads, and something resembling a fringe ; a few brass 
 bracelets ; beads round their throats ; and one had tied 
 a handkerchief round her head as a turban. Their hair 
 was black and woolly, short curls close to the head, fine 
 white teeth, large thick lips, and wide nostrils, with 
 good, intelligent countenances. One of the girls was 
 very fat, she seemed too fat to move with the activity 
 of the other two, who in singing as they sat on the 
 ground, shook their bodies about, threw their arms 
 round each other, imitating an embrace, wriggling about 
 with their bosoms quite exposed, large and full ; the 
 extraordinary effect of which they appeared to be quite 
 unconscious of, and -were not the least ashamed. I 
 asked Ginger to tell me what their song was about, 
 wishing to know the style of their thoughts, but he 
 said he could not. They screamed with laughter, 
 keeping it up till late, when they all lay down for the 
 night in our iron house. Ginger says they worship
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 55 
 
 nothing, and never pray to anything-. I told him he 
 should talk to them of what I had told him of the great 
 God, but, except to show his superior knowledge (he 
 is very vain), I don't suppose he will trouble himself. 
 The girls sit and take precedence according to their age, 
 but I could not learn any of their ages. The fat girl was 
 always before her sisters, being the eldest. One of them 
 looked at my waist, then pinched her own in, laughed, and 
 pointed. I gave in to their humour, pinched my waist, 
 showing them it was not by any means tightened ; 
 they seemed quite to admire it ; but except the fat girl, 
 they were very neat themselves, and very dark. The 
 deep colour of their skin, added to its evident toughness, 
 has rather the effect of well-fitting leather, which indeed 
 it is. This morning they set out on their further travels, 
 not caring one bit for the coming rain, and this leads 
 me to another feature in the Caffre character, or perhaps n 
 the same in another shape, viz. idleness. As soon as A 
 a shower comes on the working Caffre throws down his 
 tools and runs to shelter ; he will not work in rain, 
 though he could walk through it caring no more than 
 a duck. Ginger has been idle all this day on account 
 of the rain, while his sisters have gone cheerily on their 
 journey! I felt a kind of yearning for the souls of the 
 poor heathen creatures, who looked so joyous and really 
 as if they possessed reasoning powers But, ah ! I 
 know how strong are their natural tempers, habits, 
 and prejudices, with their disinclination to change. It 
 will be the leopard changing his spots when they are 
 converted. They are but one grade above the brute 
 beast. The exciting stories that are printed in missionary 
 reports are very likely true in themselves ; but the 
 anecdotes so touching could be quite reversed in the 
 same individuals, and equally true. To try to civilize 
 them without the scriptural foundation, would be to 
 place a dangerous, unmerciful enemy in your own path. 
 Gratitude seems unknown to them. Excite their 
 passions and you may run. Ah ! how ignorant are 
 those at home, both of themselves and of the nature of 
 the work of a missionary, who talk so enthusiastically
 
 
 56 My African Home; or, 
 
 of wishing to go amongst the heathen, and fearing not 
 to hve in the desert in so good a cause, and how their 
 ardour and their spirits sink when they find the hope- 
 lessness and impossibility of conveying their meaning to 
 the barbarous tribes of Africa ! We had an African 
 youth with us a fortnight ago, well dressed and intelli- 
 gent, the descendant of African slaves. I pondered 
 on the fate that had returned him to the land of his 
 stolen parents, and that had raised him in the third or 
 fourth generation — perhaps even in the second — so 
 much above his countrymen, and I wondered if slavery 
 had not been a blessing to him. 
 
 Poor Ginger is very handy for a Caffre, but growing 
 quite lazy with Mrs. Welsh, upon whom, and all of her 
 class, he looks with extreme contempt, and when 
 squatted on the ground will ask her to hand things to 
 him. She is rather fearful of exercising the authority 
 I tell Mm she has. He says to her, " You are poor 
 people, but me is a gentleman ; me have plenty cows, 
 plenty mealies, and plenty oats. When me in craal 
 me do no work ; me wife make fire, gather wood, cook 
 food, and she say ' Now you come eat.' " 
 
 We are continually being tormented by wild animals. 
 When we have reared our poultry, the tiger-cat takes 
 them ; when the rabbits grow sizeable, a snake, or other 
 venomous creature, will suck out their entrails ; when 
 the fine roots of the arrowroot are beginning to ripen, 
 a drove of wild pigs from the bush, and sometimes your 
 neighbours' tame pigs, get loose, and devour every root 
 in your ground. Locusts are a scourge when they come 
 accidentally (for their visits are not so common). They 
 will ruin a plantation of beans, or any more valuable 
 vegetable. Just now there are long lines of woolly 
 caterpillars creeping along the ground and up the walls 
 and hedges. What mischief they do I know not, but 
 one made me creep all over that I found on my stocking. 
 We killed a snake yesterday about a yard long, close to 
 the house. Ginger saw it coming up the path and 
 screamed, which brought all the men to see what 
 was the matter. Mr. G. Eastwood rushed out with the
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 57 
 
 chambock (a whip of hide). The snake ran up into a 
 tree and was regularly besieged, but finally obliged to 
 yield, when a cut from a hoe despatched him. It was 
 of a beautiful green colour, and venomous. We rarely saw 
 one so near the house, but in the bush there are plenty ; 
 one (a boa, I think) was killed there six yards long, but I 
 never had the luck to see one. except a bright green, 
 small snake, which kept me in fear for a week, as I saw 
 it run up a spout on the side of the house and I feared 
 its making its nest in the thatch. A few days after 
 William Smith saw it come down out of the spout, and 
 that was the last of it. 
 
 During this month Leyland had a ninety miles' ride, 
 to Richmond and further, to look after his cattle-farm 
 and other matters. I was left to myself for a few days 
 and had no visitors. I went one day in a hurry to see 
 my old neighbour, Mrs. Rowen, as she sent me a note 
 saying she was in trouble. I found it was an effort from 
 a bad man in the Bay to extort money from her, which 
 was rather hard at her great age, and she so very par- 
 ticular to pay regularly. The man we knew well was 
 not one to let a bill lie over two and a half years, but 
 I fancy she would have to pay again rather than be 
 
 summoned, as he threatened if she did not. Old B 
 
 was not over-scrupulous, as his dealings with my hus- 
 band proved. Indeed, I could fill this book with tales 
 of fraud and iniquity of which my husband was made 
 the victim, only I would rather not recall these very 
 painful themes. 
 
 On the 19th of this month (April, 1853) old Gudgeon 
 made his reappearance, very penitent, telling us he has 
 suffered, and we must let bygones be bygones. He has 
 been up the country with Captain Stephenson, and has 
 run off from him after or in a drunken fit, and doubtless 
 he will do the same from us in a month or so. 
 
 My little class of children on Sunday, the 24th, had 
 scarcely left when Ginger made his appearance at the 
 open window with several Caffres, his friends, to whom 
 he wished to show the elegancies of a white man's house. 
 So I allowed them to look in, and seated myself at the
 
 58 My African Home; or, 
 
 window to chat with them, Ginger acting as interpreter. 
 I told them as well as I could about the great God 
 who made them. They were very attentive and well- 
 behaved, but laughed as Ginger translated what I said 
 in his own way, and how much or how little they carried 
 away in their understanding I cannot say — not much, I 
 fear. 
 
 Another Sunday I had an incident of a different 
 kind. We had sauntered out in the walk, attracted by 
 the lovely afternoon, and were admiring all nature, when 
 I became attracted by the castor-oil shrub, and buried 
 myself in a bush to gather a handful of its berries. 
 Engrossed with my own thoughts, and aided by my 
 deafness, I perceived nothing that went on beyond 
 me, when Leyland gave me a smart slap on my shoulder, 
 and, turning suddenly round, I found myself in presence 
 of two gentlemen on horseback and one beyond me. I 
 gave way to a hearty laugh at my propinquity, so un- 
 known, while the gentlemen had been bowing and " how- 
 do-ye-doing " for some time. They were the Governor 
 and two gentlemen from Durban, and his Excellency, 
 wearied with bowing unnoticed, had ridden past me to 
 join my husband. We turned and went to the house, 
 where the Governor's visit was honoured with a bottle of 
 champagne. He was excessively stupid and quiet, and 
 merely grunted out a few words in reply to anything 
 addressed to him. Leyland feared he was offended with 
 me ; while I, more suspicious of evil, wondered if he had 
 been dining. However, he complained of a pain in his 
 head, and I heard afterwards he suffered occasionally 
 from the effects of a former sunstroke. Altogether the 
 visit was not so satisfactory as it might have been, and 
 I cannot say I much admired him. 
 
 Next day, while we were very busy, two gentlemen 
 rode up early to ask to see Leyland's sugar-canes, which 
 are very fine, and they lunched with us. Scarcely were 
 they gone and our dinner over than up rode Captain 
 Stephenson and Mr. Bevan, hungry as hunters — having 
 ridden forty miles — to be housed and fed for an indefinite 
 period with their horses. Such is the kind of hospitality
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 59 
 
 expected in a young colony, where hotels are scarce and 
 very dear, and purses short. They stayed four days, 
 turning the ways of the house upside down, and making 
 Mrs. Welsh and me very glad when they took their de- 
 parture, for men throw off every sign of courteous manner 
 in the bush, where they can hunt, and drink, and smoke. 
 At first these two treated me little better than a servant, 
 but afterwards they overdid it in politeness, and I found 
 Leyland had given them a hint. One of these men 
 had been a clergyman, the other an officer in the 
 army. Leyland was as much put out by them and 
 their ways as I was, but he put up with them much 
 more quiescently, and would on no account turn them 
 away. 
 
 On the 29th our visitors declared their intention of 
 riding home, so for the sake of the ride we said we would 
 convoy them as far as the river. We tied up for them 
 some bread and beef and hard-boiled eggs, and they had 
 their flask of spirits. The morning was lovely and the 
 valley beautiful, and when we bade the gentlemen adieu, 
 Leyland proposed our riding on to Durban that I might 
 make the acquaintance of Mrs. Collins, whose husband 
 was postmaster, and one of the gentlemen who called 
 with the Governor. We did so, and I passed a very 
 pleasant, chatty day. Mrs. Collins is a genuine Scotch- 
 woman, and insisted on my staying and dining with her. 
 I did so. and it was late when Leyland came for me. 
 The darkness, which comes on so suddenly in that 
 country, overtook us as we entered the bush path. 
 Leyland had fortunately white trousers on, which I 
 followed closely, for I could not see to guide my horse, 
 and let it choose its own steps, and he kept me talking 
 the whole way to assure himself of my being close and 
 safe. The glowworm shone under a bush occasionally, 
 and here and there the trees opened to the sky, when 
 the stars peeped down upon us, but the moon was late 
 in rising, and we found our people assembled on our 
 arrival to know what could have kept me so late, though 
 it was not much past seven o'clock. There is no twilight, 
 and bush paths are apt to awaken the nerves. There
 
 60 My African Home ; or, 
 
 is a solitary feeling about them. When once you enter 
 you feel you must go through, as through a tunnel. 
 
 Tigers sometimes cross the path, and are often heard 
 in the evenings, but they are said to fly from man 
 generally unless hungry or provoked. There have been 
 two or three fights lately, however, in the open valley. 
 A man took a pack-ox to the well for water when a 
 tiger sprang at the ox, for though the valley is open it 
 is°bounded by bush. The man turned the ox quickly 
 round and the tiger disappeared in the bush, but the 
 man went home without the water, and the ox was 
 uninjured. He was our friend Mrs. Ho wen's servant. 
 Our neigh-hour, Mrs. Galliers, was carrying her washing 
 to Mrs. Bowen's, when she saw a tigress and two cubs 
 lying under a bush. She was frightened, but they did 
 not touch her, so she goes backwards and forwards daily 
 as usual. 
 
 May, 1853. — The weather is lovely at this season in 
 Natal. Our winter is approaching, and the mornings 
 and evenings are even cold. We are glad to light a 
 fire in our parlour grate, though more for the cheerfulness 
 it causes than from the necessity for heat. We have had 
 a very enjoyable visit of a week from Mr. and Mrs. M. 
 It has been good for all of us in affording pleasant rides, 
 and chats, and walks. The lady is an open, unpretend- 
 ing, mdtter-of fact, sensible woman, clever, but not 
 highly educated. She tells me she is a poor curate's 
 daughter, and there being a very large family she pro- 
 posed doing something for herself, as companion or 
 nursery governess, and making her own way in the 
 world, — in other words, bettering herself. She had an 
 active mind and healthy person, and she felt she should 
 be happier with some stated duties to do, so she came 
 out with a lady, and was very happy and quite content, 
 till a gentleman, with whom she had never spoken, pro- 
 posed to her in writing, saying he wanted a wife ; he 
 had heard her lead the singing in church on an 
 emergency, and he felt sure so good a leader of the 
 1 ooth Psalm would make a good wife, and he was 
 willing to take her for his. Most properly she carried
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 6i 
 
 his letter at once to the lady she lived with, but she 
 took her own way, and after sundry objections being 
 overruled by the gentleman, they were married in a 
 fortnight ! After the deed was fairly done she felt so 
 unhappy that next day she asked her husband to let 
 her go quietly away and she would never trouble him 
 more, but he declined his liberty, so she had to make 
 the best of it, and in ei^ht months berame reconciled 
 to her lot, and the bargain (for such it was on both 
 sides) turned out better than either had a right to 
 expect. She said for a few days at first after her 
 acquaintance, she used to look "so hard " at the brothers 
 (there were three) to know which was the one to be her 
 husband. 
 
 We thought we were very comfortably off for servants, 
 but poor Mrs. Welsh finds that she cannot attend both 
 to my cooking and her own children, so Welsh says 
 they must leave at the end of their second month. It is 
 well our visitors will have left ere then, but I cannot 
 wonder they should wish to go if they can find other 
 employment, not requiring her to act as servant. 
 
 Sunday, \^th. — When I rose I found the room swept 
 and breakfast-things laid, but no sign of Mrs. Welsh, 
 nor did I see her again. She never came to say good- 
 bye, but took the children away early to save too heavy 
 a load next day. Poor things ! I doubt they will be no 
 better off elsewhere ; with us they had house-rent free, 
 vegetables, and wages, and she told me they had known 
 what it was to want bread. When their money is all 
 spent they will wish themselves back. .Their going so 
 suddenly, however, begins a new era in my life, for I 
 have no servant provided, and Ginger, who spoke 
 English well, and was really handy for a Caffre, set off 
 to his craal, because he did not like Mrs. Welsh, and 
 would not work under her ; so he went home to his 
 wife to be a gentleman,, as he said to Mrs. Welsh, 
 and he carried his head like an independent man, and 
 was as proud in his own barbarous way as Mrs. Welsh 
 herself. 
 
 Our present Caffre, called Ebenezer, cannot speak or
 
 62 My African Home ; or, 
 
 understand a word of English, and is very slow. I 
 get a little help from old Gudgeon at times, but he is 
 working on the farm, and Mrs. Smith does what she 
 can, but she has her own house and family to look after, 
 so I am working myself, and I tell Ebenezer in English 
 and point to what he must do at the same time, and 
 hope he will thus learn the meaning of a few English 
 words. For some little time I must be my own servant, 
 and for my future satisfaction in so unusual a situation, 
 I must jot down a kind of diary of my various work. 
 
 Sunday, \$th. — After Mrs. Welsh's departure I made 
 the coffee, saw the eggs boiled, and all other necessaries 
 for breakfast, and wiped the dishes while Ebenezer 
 washed up. The children soon came and said their 
 Catechism, &c., and then we read the Morning Church 
 Service, and walked about the grounds. Mrs. Smith 
 kindly cooked our fowl and cabbage at her own house 
 and sent them over for dinner. Ebenezer, under my 
 close surveillance, boiled the soup, rice, and potatoes. 
 When nearly ready, a neighbour, Mr. Edmonstone, 
 walked in ; 1 felt sure he was come to dinner, but dis- 
 covered he had come by invitation, and Leyland had 
 forgotten all about it. Fortunately the dinner did very 
 well, and Mrs. Smith accidentally walking over, waited 
 upon us and washed up, after making and serving coffee. 
 The afternoon was fine, and when our guest rose to go, 
 Leyland proposed my getting my hat, and we would 
 take him through the new bush path. Finding I must 
 change my shoe-, I told the gentlemen to go on, and I 
 would follow directly and meet my husband on his 
 return, as we must not delay the gentleman, when 
 darkness might suddenly overtake him in the bush 
 path. I followed, but fearing to go alone into the bush, 
 turned ; meantime my husband feared for me, and he 
 turned, and somehow we missed meeting. He looked 
 in the house but I was not there, thought I must have 
 gone the other way, and followed hard down the hill in 
 search ; I was not there ; up again to get Smith to help 
 him to seek, when by good luck I met him in a terrible 
 fright, and we could not understand how we had missed
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 63 
 
 each other : we turned in and spent the evening reading 
 " Mrs. Fry's Life." 
 
 Monday, \6th. — Rose early, swept out the room and 
 made breakfast ready, Ebenezer attending to the fire and 
 pans, and here I may say that I never saw a Caffre's 
 equal in making and keeping up a wood fire on the 
 ground. I let him try to help me to make the bed, but 
 he gave me my full share of the work, even of the turn- 
 ing of the heavy mattress. Next I prepared the clothes 
 for the wash ; then rested and mended socks or read 
 the newspaper, after which it was time to prepare dinner ; 
 and though we had only soup, curried fowl, and vege- 
 tables, it took a great deal of cooking, with the fire on 
 the ground outside, and an ignorant, lazy Caffre to aid, 
 who required each order told separately by pointing at 
 the moment it should be done. I could have done it 
 alone quicker, only the smoke blinds one in looking 
 into a pan. A Caffre seems never to feel it. Old 
 Gudgeon came and washed up and helped a little, and 
 in the evening after coffee we read " Nigel." 
 
 Thursday. — Mr. Edmonstone came to breakfast, and 
 he and my husband rode off to see some land, intending 
 to be back for dinner, which I had ready at five. At 
 six they made their appearance. Leyland's horse had 
 comedown with him, and crushed some amatingoolas (a 
 fine acid fruit of a rose colour, shaped like a plum), 
 which he was bringing home for me. His horse had 
 been lost for an hour or two, which had delayed them, 
 and they were as hungry as hunters, having eaten nothing 
 since they left me after breakfast. They praised my 
 tomato-soup, asked who had made the pie, it was so 
 good, and all the rolled pudding was eaten up. I felt 
 quite flattered in my new character of cook, but I must 
 remember the water fully boils next time before I put 
 my pudding in it, for some of the paste stuck to the 
 cloth it was boiled in.
 
 64 My African Home; or, 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Friday. — My husband is quite shaken and poorly 
 with the fall he got with his horse, and on the sofa all 
 day, and was quite edified watching me going through all 
 my household work, and teaching Ebenezer to sweep 
 the floor, and other little things. He told me it was 
 lucky my house was no larger, or I should never get 
 through my work. I quite agree, for it is large enough 
 for our wants, and I rather enjoy this picnicing kind of 
 life for a time, especially as I find time to draw a flower 
 now and then, when some new and beautiful one is put 
 into my hand from the bush or the fields. Rather late 
 Mr. Collins rode up, I feared to dinner ; however, we 
 should have had enough and good, though no show, and 
 I have learned, as Mr. Walker said I soon should, not 
 to try to present dinners as in England. I had made 
 a very good pudding, and, in fact, as he rode up he found 
 me carrying it into the house, smelling very fragrant. 
 It was a composition of my own, made of a number of 
 good things mixed together, for as we can't get milk, 
 our receipts for good puddings are rarely of any use. 
 The cooking is all done outside the house, while the 
 stores are kept in the house, which causes a constant 
 trotting to and fro. 
 
 Mr. Collins did not stay to dinner, but he came back 
 next morning to breakfast, and amongst other good 
 things he got a Chinese goose-egg, as large as two 
 turkey's eggs, of a fine flavour, and the white trans- 
 parent like a duck's egg. The geese were a present 
 from the captain of a trading-vessel from China. The 
 gentlemen went a long ride, and got a good dinner with 
 Mr. Wray.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 65 
 
 Sunday, May 22nd.— My dear brother and sister's 
 wedding anniversary, and we drank their healths in a 
 bottle of champagne, for it so chanced we had quite a 
 party at dinner. After early morning work, the children 
 and Gudgeon came to join in our morning service. 
 Gudgeon was helping me to get dinner ready for our- 
 selves and two gentlemen who had been verbally invited, 
 when Leyland came and whispered that Mr. Field 
 (customs-collector) and another gentleman had just 
 ridden up to take pot luck with us. Presently Mr. 
 Milner rode up with the same social intention, so here 
 were five men besides ourselves come to a hungry dinner 
 in the middle of the day. They went down to see the 
 state of the sugar-canes, leaving Gudgeon, myself, and the 
 Caffre to make ready for them ; and Mrs. Smith, seeing 
 all the gentlemen pass her house with my husband, 
 soon ran over to help me, but she also had two chance 
 visitors for their own midday roast of beef, so we had 
 all plenty to do. Mrs. Smith took all the weight off my 
 shoulders, superintending the culinary department, and 
 she brought with her six eggs for an omelette. I pre- 
 pared the table, and Gudgeon waited in a clean shirt 
 and his greasy, dirty only pair of trousers, for the silly 
 man sold all his clothes for drink, and now is to be 
 made to suffer. Mrs. Smith lends him an old shirt of 
 her husband's, while his one is being washed. His shirt 
 was clean if not his trousers, and the honest old fellow 
 was in his element, bustling about as smartly as if he 
 were head waiter at an hotel in gay clothes and a clean 
 napkin in his hand, and dinner was excellent and 
 abundant. 
 
 On the 25th we rode over to spend the day at Spring- 
 field with Mr. and Mrs. Milner, and were not allowed to 
 return, Mrs. Milner insisting that the ride would be too 
 much for me ; so we stayed that night and the next, in 
 order that the gentlemen might ride up the coast to 
 visit Mr. Miller's sugar plantation, and ascertain if it 
 would be possible for a boat to navigate the Tongaat 
 River, and thus aid the sugar transport. Mrs. Miller 
 was our fellow-voyager from England, so Leyland went 
 
 F
 
 66 My African Home ; or, 
 
 on to call on her, and found her very comfortable in 
 a good house. He returned to Springfield late on 
 Saturday night, after a hard ride of 104 miles. " Com- 
 pensation " is the name Mr. Miller calls his estate. I 
 had returned home on Friday, under Mr. James's escort, 
 and had taken a bad cold, suffering from tooth-ache, 
 ear-ache, and head-ache, so I was glad to be alone and 
 at home again, and was quite poorly on Sunday after- 
 noon. The steamer with the monthly (or two-monthly 
 as it has been) mail came in, and we had a large budget 
 of home letters. 
 
 June, 1853. — This month commenced with writing to 
 answer our English letters, and by way of a little re- 
 laxation, on the second day Leyland and I made an 
 experiment in manufacturing some arrowroot from the 
 roots the wild pigs had left us. We were at the busiest, 
 sleeves tucked up to the elbows (mine had been up 
 some time, making a pie for dinner and mixing bread), 
 when up rode a smart man in white trousers and looking 
 very grand. This was the joiner come to glaze the 
 windows, as dashing as any gentleman who comes, and 
 far more so than most, for it seems to be the pride of 
 gentlemen in a colony to throw off both dress and manners. 
 Our arrowroot turned out so well that we sent some 
 samples to our friends in England, wholly unadulterated. 
 Arrowroot would grow well in Natal if the pigs would 
 let it alone ; the bucks eat the young green tops, and 
 the pigs go to the roots. 
 
 The glass was put into our windows on Friday, the 
 3rd of June, we having been near a year in the house 
 with nothing but calico in our window-frames. The 
 glass is a wonderful improvement, showing our beautiful 
 landscape on both sides of the house. It is astonishing 
 how safe we have felt with so little protection ; tigers 
 and hyaenas are heard prowling about, and their foot- 
 marks seen in the garden walks in the morning, yet we 
 do not meet with them face to face. On Sunday there 
 was one frightening the monkeys out of their wits just 
 a stone's throw from the house. We could not see it, 
 but the little Smiths, who were saying their catechism,
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 6y 
 
 could not keep their attention fixed for listening and 
 looking out of the window. But I never go alone into 
 the bush paths or anywhere far from home. We have 
 splendid sunsets throwing their rich warm tints over 
 hills and valley, and the scenery requires them, for there 
 are no beautiful and varied autumnal colours as in cold 
 countries. 
 
 Friday, June yd. — Mr. Field and Mr. Eastwood 
 came to dinner before leaving the colony. We gave 
 them a fine large wild goose and a bottle of champagne 
 to wish them a good voyage. Mr. Field is an old and - ' 
 respected colonist. We were speaking of the natives, when 
 he told me that he had lately had a little boy of eight 
 years given to him by the child's father. This poor 
 child had unfortunately a large appetite, and the 
 Caffres feared their mealies would be eaten up too 
 soon. They therefore laid a plan to desert the child as 
 follows : On crossing a very deep river they left the 
 poor little fellow behind, thinking he could not follow 
 through the water, but in despair or courage the boy 
 dashed in and bobbed up and down like a cork. He 
 would inevitably have been drowned had not one 
 Caffre, with more feeling than the rest, gone back into 
 the river and pulled him ashore. Mr. Field met the 
 party, and learning all that had happened, accepted the 
 gift of the boy. Was it not a Joseph sold by his 
 brethren ? Mr. Field says he is quick and clever. 
 
 The steamer sailed on Sunday again. Leyland went 
 to the point to see her off, and found the Governor 
 and a number of other gentlemen assembled, to see 
 Colonel Boys and others start. He brought back three 
 gentlemen to partake of my giblet pie, which I had 
 made ready for the oven before our morning prayers 
 and the children's catechism, and William Smith, who 
 is becoming very clever under his mother's tuition, 
 cooked a beefsteak for us. Gudgeon waited again, 
 and, having had a present that morning of a pair of 
 Leyland's old trousers, he felt quite smart. He is 
 behaving admirably at present, but I live in terror for 
 the next outbreak. We could ill spare him just now, 
 
 F 2
 
 68 My African Home ; or, 
 
 without any other white servant to attend to the house 
 and horse. We were scarcely in bed that night, when 
 Leyland exclaimed, " Those nasty oxen are in the 
 garden again." Out he ran and chased all the animals 
 he saw off, but next morning found that five had been 
 left to do 5/. worth of damage. 
 
 I have taken to riding lately, and find it agrees with 
 me. I rode twenty miles one day without it making 
 me in the least stiff, so we rode into Durban the fol- 
 lowing day to get a strap on my saddle rectified. My 
 pony is rather a nice one. It came to us as part of a 
 bad debt, a poor, half-starved, sore-backed, miserable 
 animal, full of " ticks ; " but rest and better feeding have 
 effected a wonderful change, and it astonished Leyland 
 the other day by running away with him, for which act 
 he said it rose 5/. in value. I hope it will not run 
 away with me ! It took me home that evening in 
 double quick time— but I must relate the great event 
 of that day. 
 
 A buck hunt was to take place on Mr. Milner's land 
 suitable for that sport, and I w.is invited to accompany 
 my husband and spend the day with Mrs. Milner, so 
 we rode over eight miles before breakfast, and found 
 ourselves the first on the ground. Presently the gentle- 
 men began to assemble, but the Caffres engaged to beat 
 the bush were not forthcoming ; they waited fully two 
 hours for these important gentlemen, amusing themselves 
 by examining each other's guns and looking at a young 
 lion in a cage, just fresh from the free woods (which 
 would not be an agreeable neighbour), and finally making 
 sore havoc in Mrs. Milner's beautiful pork pie. At last 
 the Caffres were announced, and we went out to see 
 these wild, naked men of the woods, in their beads 
 and cowtails; their hair curiously dressed up from 
 their heads, or curled close, or shaven off, with a 
 sort of indiarubber-ring (such it seemed) round the 
 crown, their knobkerries and assegais in hand. They 
 ranged themselves in front of the house, and commenced 
 singing and dancing in their measured and indolent, yet 
 heating manner. Their movements never take them
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 69 
 
 out of one spot, but by degrees every joint of the body, 
 and every limb, get put into motion, till the per- 
 spiration streams from their bodies, and they get into 
 a state of great excitement. Their singing is not alto- 
 gether discordant, though I could not distinguish a 
 tunc, but it was wild and warlike. Their captain was 
 with them, a man of some consequence as Caffre 
 magistrate. He wears a thick blanket coat, loosely 
 strapped round his waist, bordered with red and blue, 
 and is a stout, strong-looking man. Presently they all 
 wound down the hill into the valley, the gentlemen on 
 horseback, and here it was that my husband rode my 
 pony to keep his horse fresh for a longer ride next 
 day ; mine seemed by its extra good spirits to have 
 enjoyed its day's work. The gentlemen got good sport 
 at last, bringing down four fine bucks, and we returned 
 home quite pleased with our day of pleasure. 
 
 The closing scene I must not omit to describe ; I 
 called it a pigmy bull-fight, but perhaps it was a fairer 
 game than that. There were near 100 Caffres ; the 
 gentlemen gave them two oxen for their supper, but 
 instead of taking the doomed creatures quietly to 
 slaughter, the Caffres enclosed each ox in a ring, sang 
 and danced round it, thrusting their assegais towards it, 
 and evidently making it the subject of their song. The 
 poor animal, driven half-mad, tried in vain to escape ; it 
 was always forced back into the ring again. At last, 
 making a sudden bound, it leaped through and fled off 
 up the valley, pursued by a few Caffres to bring it back, 
 which they did after a race of some miles. We did 
 not stay to see the end, having no ambition to be in at 
 the death. A few Caffre women arrived to share in the 
 feast ; one of them was a fat, saucy, care-for-nothing 
 dunce. She wore a cotton blanket tightened across her 
 shoulders, like a lady's shawl a la negligee, which dis- 
 played a goodly lump of fat all round, while her pug 
 face and stumpy legs, bare to the calf, corresponded 
 with the whole. The moon was nearly at the full, so 
 we ventured to stay till dusk, and on entering the bush 
 path I was reminded of a scene I remembered when a
 
 70 My African Home ; or, 
 
 girl I was taken once to Vauxhall Gardens, the branches 
 meeting over our heads, and all so darkly light, with 
 the moon scarce visible. Presently Leyland, who always 
 goes through the bush a step in advance of me to lead, 
 set up a shout and a howl, to warn the wild beasts, I 
 supposed, that we were wide awake. I felt no fear, and 
 being deaf heard no uncommon sound, but I found he 
 had heard the voice of a tiger rather close to us and 
 wished to frighten it away. We reached home without 
 accident, found Gudgeon had quite given us up and 
 was preparing to mount guard by taking his mat to 
 sleep behind the front door, with a drawn sword placed 
 at his side. 
 
 I am told that a tiger will rarely attack a clothed 
 man, but it will sometimes a naked Caffre, who has a 
 strong scent about him. Some of our Caffres have been 
 terribly frightened. One, whose duty it was to go after 
 the cattle, had been so terrified by a tiger growling at 
 him that he took a lighted torch to set fire to the grass 
 and reeds, which were high enough to hide any animal. 
 We, unknowing of all this, were tempted by the lovely 
 day to take a longer stroll than usual, Leyland desiring to 
 show me over more of the Feniscowles estate. When down 
 among the long grass Leyland's quick eye caught sight 
 of a tiger's back, and immediately afterwards the grass 
 became lighted up as if by magic, but no harm followed. 
 The bush in Natal must be much lower than Australian 
 bush, for no horseman could ride through it unless a 
 path was first cut; it is so completely entangled that it 
 makes a famous cover for wild beasts. 
 
 We went to a grand ball during this month, which I 
 really must describe,itbeingso very unusual an affair,and 
 so superior to any yet given in Durban. It was a stroke of 
 policy in one of the magistrates to overcome some ill-will 
 and jealousies that had been growing and talked about. 
 We had not thought of going to the ball, but Leyland 
 came home on the day, and told me my horse would be 
 at the door in two hours, and he had engaged a bedroom 
 in town for us, where we should dress and sleep. So we 
 got out our dress clothes, put them in a portmanteau,
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 71 
 
 and sent a Caffre straight off with it ; took a bite of 
 bread and beef in our fingers, saddled, and were off; 
 Leyland carrying my ornaments in a flat basket over his 
 shoulder. We found a comfortable little room and a 
 mutton chop awaiting us. We dressed and drove to the 
 ball in the only van in the place, which was engaged to 
 do duty all night, and was in consequence bringing and 
 taking parties to and from till five or six in the morn- 
 ing. I was quite surprised with the elegant and exten- 
 sive arrangements. There were three dancing-rooms, 
 decorated with flags and wild flowers ; beams across the 
 ceiling were hung with festoons ; the windows which 
 opened to the ground were all taken out, and the wide 
 verandah outside covered in and seated all round, while 
 the music was so placed, centrally, that it served equally 
 for all the dancing-rooms. Supper was in a more dis- 
 tant part of the house, while tea, coffee, negus, &c, were 
 supplied all the evening. 
 
 Some of the ladies were very good-looking, and nicely 
 dressed in pink tarlatans, white muslins, and silks ; 
 one lady in a rich velvet dress. For such a mixed set 
 of people, and the first ball of such pretensions, it was 
 surprising how everything went off. One of the prettiest 
 and best-dressed ladies, who came rather late, I recog- 
 nized as our landlady, who danced all the evening ; but 
 told one of her partners she was so fatigued cooking for 
 the supper, that she could hardly dance at all ! Had 
 she been other than a Yankee she would have dropped 
 the cook when she entered the ball-room. But she is 
 not without merit ; her husband is too deaf to earn a 
 living, so she does it for him, by keeping a first-class 
 boarding-house, which she manages so well that some 
 think she must have been brought up to it, though she 
 would not have us think so. There were all classes of 
 people present, even to the police! — 150 guests were in- 
 vited, and where so many were found I know not. The 
 night became very wet, and the one van was in such 
 requisition, having been previously engaged, that it was 
 hopeless our getting it, so we made up our minds and 
 remained until half-past five, joining in the Scotch reel,
 
 72 My African Home ; or, 
 
 and finally walked home to our lodging, the rain having 
 nearly ceased. We had not far to go, but in any other 
 place our shoes and stockings would have been wet 
 through. Here, however, the loose, thirsty sand drank 
 up all the rain, as if it fell through a sieve, and we just 
 waded through the moist ground with merely dirtying 
 the outside of my velvet boots and the edge of my petti- 
 coat, my dress being tucked up under my shawl. We 
 met for breakfast at ten, and rode home in the after- 
 noon. So great was the excitement produced in Durban 
 by so uncommon an entertainment, that one lady, rather 
 than miss the treat, took her baby of three months old 
 (which she feared to leave so long) with her, and kept 
 the child with its nurse in the ante-room till five o'clock 
 in the morning ! I called a few days after to leave my 
 own and my husband's cards ; it was well I did so, 
 for I found the lady of the house seated in state to 
 receive callers, after her ball, with her eye-glass fixed 
 on the door at each new entrance.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 73 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 I BEGIN to like my pony very much. We rode out to a 
 sugar plantation ten miles distant one day, through a wild 
 and pretty country, but no great cultivation. We passed 
 a settlement of Caffre craals, which look like so many dirty 
 haycocks. They are made of reeds and mud, in a circle, 
 wherein is their cattle-yard, their huts or craals forming 
 a boundary and protection to the cattle in the centre. 
 When they light their fires on the floors (hardened with 
 well rubbed in cow-dung) a cloud of smoke issues from 
 the hole by which they enter. We found Mr. and Mrs. 
 Jeffels, to whose sugar plantation we rode, a very hos- 
 pitable couple. They gave us dinner, and Mr. Lloyd, 
 the clergyman, happening to arrive, joined the party, and 
 six sat down to a substantial meal of pork and pie. The 
 lady showed me her garden, in which they are rearing 
 all manner of tropical fruits and plants. I saw ginger, 
 pines, orange, lemon, and lime trees, cocoa-nut, bananas, 
 and more common vegetables, all in an infant but 
 healthy state. The sugar-cane of three or four months' 
 growth was very fine. Mr. Jeffels is a hard-working, 
 indefatigable gentleman ; brought up for the church, but 
 here labouring with his own hands and feet as hard as 
 any workman. His father, a clergyman, had fifty pounds 
 a year ! The son preferred the bush life, with a good, 
 faithful wife. Their daughter Laura seemed an intelli- 
 gent, useful child, of eleven years, speaking the Caffre 
 language too well, for I am told it is only learned at the 
 expense of purity of mind. She told me that the name 
 of some white birds we had observed amongst the cattle 
 as we rode along, was the tick-bird, from their living off 
 the ticks they pick out of the cattle, and that, in conse-
 
 74 My African Home ; or, 
 
 quence, they were so much valued as never to be shot. 
 The Rev. Mr. Lloyd had been among the missionaries 
 at the opening of a church for the coloured population, 
 and had been much gratified by seeing the efforts made 
 for the spread of Christianity. But all I hear of these 
 missionary efforts, however great, is unsatisfactory in 
 the result, and it can scarcely be otherwise, while the 
 Caffre child, brought up by itself to look after itself, 
 becomes thoroughly selfish. The missionaries (as I was 
 told) have to pay so much a week or month to the parents 
 to induce them to send their children to school, and 
 when the pay stops the child is removed. My old 
 neighbour, Mrs. Bowen, tells me that such was the 
 case in England a few years ago ; that the sister of the 
 then Archbishop of Canterbury, wishing to do good, 
 made a school for little children, but until she paid the 
 parents twopence a week she only got four or five 
 scholars. At the end of two years she told the parents 
 she would teach their children if they liked to send them, 
 but that she could not afford to pay any longer. By 
 this time, however, the parents began to see the advan- 
 tage the children gained in moral training, and were 
 glad to send them. 
 
 On the 1 8th of June, Mr. and Mrs. Collins, Captain 
 Robertson, and the young lady he is about to marry, 
 came to spend the day and fish in our lake, but they 
 arrived so late that they had only time to go and look 
 at the fish, and we had to hurry coffee after our dinner 
 to get the ladies through the bush in twilight, of which 
 there is very little in this country, and it is near our 
 shortest day. What had we for dinner ? Soup, hot 
 beef, cold fowls, tongue, yam, rice, pumpkin tops, and 
 roly-poly pudding, made of the last jar of English 
 gooseberries by my own clean hands, for I make all the 
 pastry and bread myself, and examine every joint of 
 meat that comes to the house, or it would never keep 
 twelve hours sweet. I begin to examine my hands 
 with alarm, lest traces of unusual work be left on them, 
 and tell tales if ever I go again into civilized society, 
 besides spoiling the fineness of their touch for more
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 75 
 
 delicate work. But our farmer's wife gives me comfort, 
 assuring me they will come all right again after a time 
 of idleness. She adds, " You ladies wear gloves to keep 
 your hands white ; we wear them to hide our dirty 
 hands." I have always had an objection to seeing 
 gloves worn while eating in company, and shall have it 
 doubly in future after this vivid remark followed by an 
 example ; but I mean to strike work before I reach this 
 last point. 
 
 Our weather is charmingly cool in this our winter 
 season. We frequently enjoy a fire in dear Margaret's 
 grate, which looks so cheerful and homelike that we 
 often burn one for no other reason, and boil our eggs or 
 toast our bread, and talk of home. The sun does not 
 rise till about seven o'clock, and I really enjoy wearing 
 my woollen stockings (by the way Mrs. Jeffels told me 
 she never wears any stockings at all in Africa, and finds 
 it far the best plan). To-day has been much warmer, 
 even hot at midday; but it will be cold again at night, 
 and our fire will look like a friend. 
 
 June 21 st. — I had mixed the bread and had set it to 
 rise before a nice fire, when the Rev. Mr. Lloyd and 
 Mr. Row rode up to call, on their way to a funeral. 
 This sounds harsh, but it was not with harsh feeling — 
 distances make the difference. Mr. Lloyd's first remark 
 was, " Now, I like this," but whether he meant the fire or 
 the bread-pan before it I am not sure ; my thoughts went 
 instantly to the bread, and I made an excuse that it 
 was the warmest place for it. 
 
 We rode into Durban next day to see a Frenchwoman 
 who had applied for our place. She was every way 
 French, politely intimating that it was our place only 
 she would condescend to take. She fancied we should 
 live like princes and pay accordingly. "Me work all 
 day ; me do everyting, me wash muslins, me do all dis," 
 touching her ruffles, " me cook, me make dresses, oh ! 
 everyting." I left her to consider whether my terms 
 would make it worth her while to leave the town and 
 her trade of dressmaking, and I heard no more of her. 
 
 We rode on to the " Point " and Grot home again at
 
 j6 My African Home; or, 
 
 dinner-time, Mr. James, the manager, following and 
 dining with us. 
 
 June 23rd. — We had a gentleman's party ; a Mr. 
 Saunders, with a broken arm, Mr. Robinson, the news- 
 paper editor, and two captains of vessels. They got a 
 capital dinner, the soup, pie, and tart all made by my 
 own hands, fowls and tongue dressed up again from 
 day before. The gentlemen seemed to enjoy themselves, 
 and Mr. stayed all night. 
 
 Sand-ay, 26th. — Just after our morning prayers a 
 Caffre brought a note announcing that one of Leyland's 
 boats (named after me) had gone down in the gale at 
 night with a cargo of mealies. The boat was recovered 
 next day, but with considerable expense, though no 
 worse in itself. The cargo will be a loss to some one, and 
 they will put it on my husband's shoulders if there is 
 the slightest cobweb of a chance. 
 
 The Jane Morice was announced outside; but could 
 not get inside the bar during the gale. The Jang 
 Morice brings a small box for me, and who does not 
 know the pleasure of receiving a box from England ? 
 But who does know the pleasure of unpacking one 
 filled with presents from home like those who live 
 in the wilderness of Africa, far, far away from early 
 friends ? 
 
 June 2%tJi. — Leyland has twice said to me, "You 
 must tell Mary about your ride to-day," and as it has been 
 a very busy day, I will rest myself by writing an account 
 of it. Breakfast cleared away, the bread mixed and set 
 to rise for baking, we had family prayers, and then I 
 let down a tuck of my alpaca skirt to wear as a riding 
 habit (my linen one being in the wash). This done, I 
 set about to iron some muslins, which I cannot send to 
 a common laundress, and before half finished our horses 
 came to the door. We snatched a bite of bread and 
 jam, the last of the pots of black currants put up so 
 carefully for my especial use on board ship, — the best 
 black currants that ever were, and perfectly sweet and 
 good to the last. I gave Ebenezer directions to bake 
 the bread during our absence, trusting to get back in
 
 Bush Life in Natal. yy 
 
 time to order dinner, as a Caffre does not understand 
 two orders at once. 
 
 The object of our ride was to see a small farm that 
 had lately become my property, named Briercliffe. We 
 mounted, and my pony was in such good spirits that 
 having to walk great part of a rough, steep road and 
 over fields, quite fretted it. After reaching the farm, 
 examining the land and garden, and bringing away some 
 cuttings of a lovely English rose, we turned homewards, 
 first seeing the beautiful little streamlet which supplies 
 the land and cottage with water. The stream runs over 
 broad, flat rocks sheltered by trees, and in going down 
 over the slippery, dry grass with loose dry stones, I was 
 strangely reminded of our going down Vesuvius, though 
 where the similarity existed I cannot tell. Leyland's 
 arm was a very good support, however, in the steep, 
 loose descent. It would make a beautiful spot for a 
 picnic party, dinner-table and seats all there of Nature's 
 placing : pure water from the river, a beautiful fern 
 hanging about, trees for shade, and in their season 
 plenty of lovely wild flowers. In winter there are only 
 a few, one of which we brought home, and I have since 
 made a rude sketch of it in coloured chalks. 
 
 We were joined in our ride home by Mr. Wray, who 
 went with us to " Sea View," mentioned in the bishop's 
 tour, of which our Feniscowles once formed a part. It 
 had belonged to a Mrs. Dunn, now dead, who made an 
 exquisite garden. The property is beautifully situated ; 
 but the house, a long, low, dark place, is choked with 
 trees, and feels damp and dismal. The garden, however, 
 must have been a treat to walk in, and might easily 
 become so again were the weeds removed, which vie 
 with the plants for possession. The splendid orange 
 trees of ten years' growth are full of grand fruit. The 
 trees are wide and bushy, tapering like a cone towards 
 the top, and at least twenty feet in height. Lemon and 
 lime trees are also very fine, and there is a whole grove 
 of. bananas. The coffee berry was dying in abundance 
 from the plants being choked with weeds, and date 
 trees were suffering from the same cause. It was
 
 78 My African Home ; or, 
 
 melancholy to see such waste and neglect. We saw a 
 famously strong prickly hedge that intertwines its 
 branches and bears a nut, called the hyccup nut, from 
 the effect that follows the eating too many of its fruit. 
 When amongst the bananas I could not help thinking 
 of the Swiss family Robinson and the monkeys : the 
 scene was so oriental, and the trees so well suited for 
 the tricks of these playful animals. Mr. Brickhill (the 
 present tenant), on Mr. Wray's suggestion, sent for a 
 hatchet and cut open one of the trunks of the banana 
 trees lying useless on the ground, to show us the inside, 
 of which rope can be made, and which tastes like a 
 cucumber. The fibres are very fine and strong, and this 
 still more recalled the story of the Swiss family Robin- 
 son on the desert island, finding implements in God's 
 natural creation. 
 
 The grounds about " Sea View" were so inviting that 
 I had to remind Leyland the sun would soon set (it sets 
 at five). So we again mounted our steeds and set off 
 home, parting with Mr. Wray where our paths diverged. 
 We rode home quickly, and I instantly went to the 
 larder, which consists of a meat safe on the coolest side 
 at the end of the house. The underdone beef of yester- 
 day was quickly put into the carrot soup and made hot, 
 pumpkins, rice, and potatoes were soon on the fire to 
 boil, and we had dinner in half an hour, " The best," 
 Leyland said, " he had eaten for many a day." In the 
 meantime, he had planted some limes, verbena, and 
 hyccup nuts, the spoils of our day's work ; and " Sea 
 View " oranges made us a pleasant dessert. The bread 
 left for Ebenezer to bake turned out so good that I tell 
 Leyland we have nearly eaten half a quartern loaf at 
 tea, upon which he tells me I should not make it so 
 good. Tea ended, I took my flower and wild berry to 
 commemorate them on paper. We have drunk our dear 
 mother's health to-night ; indeed, our usual toast is, 
 " Your mother and mine," and we drink the dear toast 
 in any kind of liquid, from tea to whisky toddy sometimes. 
 To-night it was in sherry negus, with nutmeg and lime, 
 which Leyland brewed very good.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 79 
 
 June ^oth. — Rode into Durban and spent the day 
 with Mrs. Collins, and as we were returning at 4.30 p.m., 
 two gentlemen came up with us on the road on their 
 way out to dine with us and I did not know it. How- 
 ever, I had made a good curry pie in the morning, which 
 Ebenezer had baked, and a pudding the day before, 
 which was soon warmed up, and we did capitally. 
 
 As we passed the church in Durban (or rather the 
 chapel-school, where church is held till ours is built) a 
 number of people and some soldiers were in the yard. 
 The court-house floors not being safe, a serious trial was 
 being held in the school-house. A Caffre woman, 
 named Pflatta, with three Caffre men and one white 
 man, had murdered her horrid drunken husband. Pflatta 
 had often threatened to poison him, but at last they 
 seem all to have joined to strangle the fellow, and after 
 stripping him they threw him into the river, to make it 
 appear he had drowned himself while crossing ; but the 
 cheat was too clumsy, and all — as bad as they can be — 
 are sentenced to death. 
 
 July 2nd. — Leyland rode to see some sugar planting, 
 which he has bought, at Springfield, with which at 
 present he is greatly pleased. It is a bold undertaking, 
 and will be the making of him or his ruin. 
 
 I was watching for him towards the dinner hour, when 
 he rode up accompanied by two ladies and a gentleman, 
 all expecting dinner. However, they were quite content 
 with boiled beef and soup, and started for Durban when 
 almost dark, neither lady the least afraid of riding through 
 the bush path by night. One of them was Mrs. King, 
 the young lady at whose marriage we had been present 
 a few months before. Leyland went with them to get 
 our letters, the steamer having arrived, and when he 
 returned was so thoroughly done up with his day of 
 riding that he went off to bed and fell fast asleep without 
 reading his letters, only knowing from me that his 
 mother was better. Next day Mr. and Mrs. Collins rode 
 out, and we ladies had a grand examination of the con- 
 tents of my little pretty tin box from home. The 
 bonnet and the head-dress were duly tried on and
 
 80 My African Home; or, 
 
 approved ; the love and care that had chosen and sent 
 all were discussed, even to the sewing up of the padlock. 
 What busy hands and what affectionate thoughts ac- 
 companied each article as it was placed in its nook and 
 taken out thence ? Had its contents been ten times 
 more valuable, they could not have been more cared for 
 than these. 
 
 Mrs. Collins had also got a box from home, and we 
 went to see her and examined her treasures, and brought 
 away a slice of a magnificent Scotch bun which formed 
 part of them, and which must have weighed fifty or sixty 
 pounds, and so good. 
 
 July AftJi. — The house was getting a regular turn over 
 and cleaning. Ebenezer had just washed the floor, and 
 every bit of furniture was out of its proper place. I was 
 sitting mending some things when Mr. Ross rode up to 
 call, but was too polite to enter, for which I was not 
 sorry. There was a great deal still to do, and I think a 
 pie to be made. 
 
 Tuesday, $th. — I was setting out to call on old Mrs. 
 Bowen, when a gentleman of some sort, but I could not 
 exactly fix his position, came up and asked for " Mr. 
 Feilden." " He is not at home ! This is a Durban day, 
 with the steamer going out." The man looked puzzled 
 and disappointed, so I asked if Mr. Feilden was ac- 
 quainted with him ? 
 
 " Oh yes ! " 
 
 " Your name, sir ? " 
 
 Mr. Hart presented his card. 
 
 " Would you walk in ? " 
 
 " No, thank you ; perhaps I may call again," and he 
 walked away. 
 
 When Leyland came home in the afternoon I found 
 he had invited the man to dinner and forgotten all about 
 it, and Mr. Hart, not knowing our dinner hour, thought 
 he would come in good time at any rate, and so made 
 his appearance at 1 1 a.m. 
 
 I made my call on Mrs. Bowen, whom I found very 
 low and seemingly " put out." I took no notice, but 
 went on chatting with her, encouraging her to talk of
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 8i 
 
 former days, and left her after an hour and a half 
 quite cheerful and happy. I must make a duty of going 
 to see her as often as possible, for she has none near to 
 care for her, and she lives entirely alone. Her gardener, 
 who does what little -cooking she requires, lives in an 
 outhouse, and for some reason or other she will not have 
 a woman to live in the house with her. People say she 
 is rich — I do not think so. I think she has a small 
 annuity, and with her economical ways it makes her in- 
 dependent, which of all positions is the one she most 
 enjoys. Her richly stored mind, her romance, her 
 poetry, and her love of nature, as seen in her garden, 
 make her independent of society, while her temper 
 makes her very unwilling to submit to or encounter the 
 vulgarity she meets with in a colony, and I must say 
 she has offended more than one by her cutting and 
 satirical remarks. But Mrs. Bowen is no common per- 
 son, and the better I know her the more I love and 
 venerate her. 
 
 She told me of her former intimacy with the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury when both were young, and dwelt 
 with evident pleasure on the recollections his name called 
 up ; both clever, both fond of intellectual pursuits, it was 
 talent appreciating talent. 
 
 Coming home after this charming chat, to prepare 
 dinner for Leyland and Mr. Griffiths, I found Mr. Wray 
 added to the party, but as there was plenty to eat it was 
 "all right." Dainties are not expected, and we have 
 generally abundance of delicious fruit. 
 
 Mr. Wray entertained us with a play of his own com- 
 position, reciting the ballad from which he made it. 
 The gentlemen found the fire so pleasant, and sat chat- 
 ting so long, and the night was so dark, that they finally 
 decided to stay and share the room upstairs. The 
 following night it was shared by two others, and Mr. 
 King coming to breakfast, in order to join the party 
 going to see the sugar plantation (just now the rage and 
 prime interest of the colonists), we had a large party to 
 make scones for. Hungry men are easily pleased, pro- 
 vided there is plenty, and we gave them hashed meat 
 
 G
 
 82 My African Home ; or, 
 
 and rice and eggs, of which we have great abundance, 
 with coffee, but no milk, alas ! 
 
 The gentlemen rode off, and I was left for the day to 
 make things straight and then take my sewing on the 
 sofa and rest. The following two days Leyland and I 
 spent in manufacturing arrowroot from the roots grown 
 in our garden, and produced a small quantity, very fine. 
 The process is simple, but requires time, patience, and 
 neatness. We first grate the root into water, then wash 
 it, put it through a funnel to separate the coarser fibre, 
 then wash the whole again and again, strain through a 
 muslin or sieve of various fineness until it will pass 
 through fine cambric, when the pure white arrowroot 
 sinks to the bottom of the basin, and after it has quite 
 settled the water is strained off it. The arrowroot is 
 then placed in the sun to dry, and the manufacture is 
 complete.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 83 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 July 1 or//. — Our Sundays seem fated to bring visitors. 
 I had hoped for a quiet day, but we had scarcely finished 
 the morningservice and heard the youngSmiths say their 
 catechism, when that same Mr. Hart appeared whom I 
 had so ungraciously permitted to walk off a few days 
 before. He dined with us, and also Mr. Edmonston, 
 who has a standing invitation during his wife's absence. 
 I was washing a cabbage to quicken Ebenezer's move- 
 ments, and to ensure the cabbage being clean, when 
 the latter walked up. I simply told him what I was 
 about and why 1 did it myself, but old Gudgeon coming 
 up just then took it off my hands, and we soon had a 
 comfortable dinner. While at it Mr. Collins rode out 
 to invite us to be present at a marriage at his house, 
 which was to be solemnized after the Scotch form on 
 the Wednesday following, and as we have already a ball 
 at Mrs. Millar's on hand, we shall feel quite dissipated 
 this week. 
 
 W r e rode in early and helped to decorate the hand- 
 some bride's cake, and next decorated ourselves, having 
 sent our clothes per Caffre. The bride looked very 
 pretty in her orange-flower wreath, and the bridegroom 
 (Captain Robertson) very happy of course. 
 
 There beine no carriage in Durban but that horrid 
 shaky van, the happy couple decided to ride home 
 at night quietly on horseback, and we had a very merry- 
 party, with a beautiful feast. The party kept it up with 
 dancing till two in the morning. 
 
 We had rather an absurd adventure riding into 
 Durban. My pony put its foot in a hole and stumbled, 
 and I came over its head on the soft sandy grass. 
 
 G 2
 
 84 My African Home ; or, 
 
 Leyland jumped off his horse to help me, when both 
 horses cantered away to their stable in the town, leaving 
 us behind. We seated ourselves on a bank, and after 
 awhile Tyzack appeared, riding Leyland's horse and 
 leading mine. He said when the saddled horses walked 
 into the stable he knew what must have happened, so 
 brought them instantly back to find us. We remained 
 in Durban three nights, occupying a bedroom in Mr. 
 Koch's house, while visiting Mrs. Collins, and next day 
 there were a good many callers. Amongst others was 
 Captain Stephenson, who told us he had arrived at our 
 house the night before after sunset, with tired horses, 
 and had taken possession for the night, old Gudgeon 
 making them comfortable in our sitting-room with a 
 good fire, before which they (there were three gentlemen 
 and a dog) slept, Gudgeon, who was left in charge, 
 sleeping on the floor beside them. They made them- 
 selves very much at home, eating and drinking whatever 
 they found, Mrs. Smith sending them over a pie and 
 scones from the farm, and I had left the key in the 
 door of my bedroom that the floor might be washed in 
 our absence, and this they entered to get at the wine ! 
 After chatting awhile, we all went out for a walk to make 
 a call, Captain Stephenson with us, being most polite to 
 me, to curry favour, I suppose, for he is not a great 
 favourite of mine. He kept his face turned towards me, 
 as he walked forward, when all at once he plopped into 
 a deep ditch of water up to his hips. I thought for a 
 moment it was a well, and that he was sinking ; he 
 grasped at the sand and stunted weeds, and held on till 
 he had, as he said, " got his laugh out ;" I, all the while, 
 I must confess, laughing at the ludicrous accident that 
 placed the big man in so mean a predicament, and 
 rather on the whole, if the truth must be told, en- 
 joying it. 
 
 Mrs. Millar's ball came off on the 13th. It was held 
 in Mr. Millar's store instead of the house, and thus we had 
 a beautiful ball-room and supper-room, seated for eighty 
 persons without crowding. The long room was lighted 
 by six wooden chandeliers, made for the occasion, fitted
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 85 
 
 with wax candles, and all very brilliant and elegant, the 
 walls covered with calico and decorated with flags and 
 flowers, evergreens, Sec. The end of the ball-room was 
 carpeted, with sofas for those who preferred watching 
 the dancers, and sundry glees were sung during the 
 evening. 
 
 Mrs. McArthur took her baby again, as at Mrs. Mellor's 
 ball, and I found the poor thing in the midst of a lot 
 of shawls, at half-past two in the morning, where it 
 nearly got turned over by the ladies searching for their 
 shawls to go home. Mrs. McArthur is early initiating 
 her poor little infant in habits of dissipation ! 
 
 "Oh, Mr. , will you excuse me? I hear my baby 
 
 crying." 
 
 " Oh, no ! Mrs. McArthur, I really cannot excuse you, 
 the dance is only just commenced." 
 
 " Oh, please let me go, I hear it crying ! " 
 
 " Let it cry then, for I really cannot let you go till 
 the quadrille is finished." 
 
 ~ She is quite a young woman, and her partner was a 
 rather young man. 
 
 Since my return to England I have been told that 
 taking babies to balls has become quite common, and 
 that, on one occasion, a lady lifted her baby, as she 
 thought, from amongst a heap of shawls and cloaks, 
 wrapped it up in haste, and carried it home, and next 
 morning she discovered her little baby-girl metamor- 
 phosed into a little boy ! but this may be an addition to 
 the real story. 
 
 July 2$rd. — Old Gudgeon came to me, wanting to 
 know if I was satisfied with him, adding that he had 
 worked like a horse. I cross-questioned him a little, 
 when it appeared that Captain Stephenson had been 
 trying to induce him to go to live with him up the 
 country. I told him I had nothing to complain of since 
 his last return, upon which he became so elated that he 
 set off forthwith to Durban to get drunk, fell in with 
 Captain Stephenson, who was in no better condition, and 
 meeting Leyland in the town, the captain set Gudgeon 
 on to trip him up, and then they began to abuse him.
 
 86 My African Home; or, 
 
 Leyland only freed himself from the drunken men with 
 his coat torn off his back, and escaped to Mr. Collins, 
 whence he came home, and I hope we have seen the 
 last of Captain Stephenson. If he presumes to make 
 his appearance here again he will find the worst 
 reception. 
 
 Leyland was very unwell this week, and had a great 
 deal of troublesome and painful business to attend to in 
 Durban ; but he was on the sofa at home on Tuesday, 
 quite ill, while I busied myself with household affairs, 
 putting a quantity of things to air at the fire, and the mug 
 with the bread mixed to rise beside it, when a lady and 
 gentleman rode up to make a call. They proved to be 
 the bride and bridegroom bringing their bridal cards, be- 
 fore they had been quite a week married. They excused 
 themselves, saying their time was so short before sailing 
 for India. I snatched the clothes from before the fire, and 
 hurriedly placed them in our bedroom, and we had a very 
 pleasant little visit, Captain Robertson agreeing that they 
 would return and dine on Thursday, with Mr. and Mrs. 
 Collins, when our party turned out most successfully, Mrs. 
 Smith cooking our dinner, giving us delicious hotch- 
 potch. Nothing could exceed the ducks or the large 
 dish of green peas ; the yams, too, were capital, and 
 the pie and minced collops (both excellent) had not a 
 chance. A sweet omelette was only too small, and the 
 party, after coffee, rode home by moonlight, through 
 our beautiful bush path, which is like a continued 
 triumphal arch, with its bushes and creeping flowering 
 shrubs of rich perfume. I rode in next morning to 
 call on the bride and Mrs. Millar after her ball, and 
 spent the day very pleasantly with Mrs. Collins, while 
 Leyland looked after his business. 
 
 Next day again I was clearing out shelves and cup- 
 boards and putting all in order, when our neighbour, 
 Mrs. Galliers, came to ask if I had any message for 
 Mrs. Bowen, to whom she was going, so I said I would 
 take advantange of her company, to go and see the 
 dear old lady. She received me as usual with open 
 arms, and told me she had had such a good dinner
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 87 
 
 on two days of last week, hoping I should go, 
 and if she had known to-day she would have been 
 better prepared. I found " Romaine on Faith " — 
 our copy — lying on her sofa ; she tells me she is so 
 fond of the book that I must keep a good look-out 
 for it. I trust it will be of real service and comfort 
 to her soul, and calm and rectify those strong passions 
 to which people tell me she is liable. It seems a severe 
 chastening that she is subjected to now, in her seventy- 
 sixth year, all alone here in the wilderness, without a 
 relation or female near her. But no discipline is sent 
 unnecessarily, doubtless these will all work for her 
 eventual good. She writes me such interesting and 
 spirited little notes, showing such a well-stored and varied 
 mind, that I must introduce one of them now and then, 
 to make her better known. We keep up a continual 
 intercourse with pen and ink, exchanging books, and 
 sending fruits and vegetables from our gardens as we 
 think the other may not possess, and she relieves her 
 mind of all her little domestic trials by writing them to 
 me with great spirit and humour ; here is one : — 
 
 " Shall we ever meet again ? I hope so. What 
 mountains of minor miseries rise up continually to 
 prevent it ! — but I have been accustomed to climb over 
 mountains much more frequently than to canter over 
 smoothly enamelled plains, so let that pass ! This is 
 a troublesome world and no mistake about it — and not 
 a small portion of domestic difficulties and disturbances 
 arise from servants, at least I have generally found it so. 
 I have now only one ! According to OldEkves (perhaps 
 you have read his life) I ought to say, ' So much the 
 better ! ' — he used to observe to his friends that he kept 
 only one man servant, who acted as groom to his 
 hunters, butler, &c, &c, because, said he, ' If you had 
 one, your work would be done ! if two, half done ! if 
 three, you may do it yourself! ' Well, I have but one, 
 and / find I must work more than I like, and put up 
 with more than I like, or perhaps I should have to fetch 
 water myself. But this weather is making me feel young 
 again : I have to-day set a basket of chalots with my
 
 88 My African Home; or, 
 
 own hands, and put peas and beans into the ground by 
 the hands of another, and chatted, and grumbled all 
 the time to my own satisfaction, and that certainly is 
 satisfactory. And now as I have gone through ' The 
 Wide, Wide World,' it is right I should say something 
 about it. I was very much pleased and interested, and 
 agree with you that it appears more like real life than 
 'Queechy ' exhibits ; nevertheless, I still think I prefer the 
 latter, as more delicately decorous — poor little Ellen 
 meets with so much kissing and hugging, as really (to 
 pity her seems uppermost in my thoughts) is awful ! 
 It may be American manners, but I think not English, 
 at least I cannot remember such inflictions in my child- 
 hood, though I was pretty considerably made a pet of. 
 I think there seems a fashion in these characteristic 
 sketches of superlative young ladies ! as Dickens' Nelly, 
 Evangeline, Elfleada, and Ellen, and they mind me of an 
 observation of my friend, Mrs. Sherwood, in regard to 
 some stories we both had recently read, ' They all speak 
 of such good little boys and girls as the world never 
 saw.' I fear I shall tire you, else I had another com- 
 parison to make, but here ends this story with very 
 much love. " Milesina Bowen." 
 
 Writing of " Queechy," she says, " I thank you for a 
 peep into the ' Wide, Wide World.' Aias ! I have peeped 
 at it a weary while, and am not wide awake yet ; in one 
 sense I never wish to be, far pleasanter is it to me to 
 look on the bright side of human nature, even if I suffer 
 for it, as I often have done. I return you 'Queechy,' and 
 almost regret parting with Elfie ; it is a lovely, interest- 
 ing story; the Evylin family caused a Welsh ftver in my 
 brain, for I have met with such characters long, long 
 ago." 
 
 In another letter about this time, she says, " I was 
 alone and reading yesterday most of the day. I did 
 what I could, but I have not got the prayer. I read till 
 mind and eyes would bear no more. My one servant 
 brought my boiled fowl at twelve, because he wanted a 
 holiday, so I FASTED, but not the right fast, for I got 
 angry, and it was not till I was alone, that I felt how
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 89 
 
 good it is to be alone, with calm, peaceful, holy thoughts, 
 my sole companions for a few hours." 
 
 Here is another extract from her notes : — 
 " My dear, kind friend, my heart thanks you, and so 
 may my pen. More I cannot say. I did not expect 
 Mrs. Galliers to-day, or I would have been ready — as I 
 intended to TREAT you with a critique on ' Tom in Eng- 
 land,' which I do not like, and think the writer acted 
 wisely in withholding his name. As to poetical 
 negresses ! — oh dear ! ! far too high a flight for me to 
 comprehend. But I had better not say too much on 
 THAT head, as herewith I send you a few humble lines 
 — thoughts on my bed last night, in my wakeful mid- 
 night hours, and put on paper this morning, with the 
 vanity of imagining they may find favour in your eyes, 
 my dear lady. I will say something of Uncle Tom 
 some day." 
 
 The lines which accompanied this note were written 
 on a small sheet of note-paper, stamped with a coloured 
 forget-me-not. In a postscript she says, — 
 
 " If I live till the 27th of November I shall com- 
 plete my seventy-sixth year, so please to make all 
 reasonable allowances. 
 
 " Forget me not ! forget me not ! 
 
 Though summer friends are smiling — 
 Though various cares should be thy lot, 
 
 Or pleasure's snares beguiling. 
 I will not deem our hearts estranged 
 
 Because so rare our meetings, 
 While welcome words of love unchanged 
 
 Foreshadow future greetings. 
 There needs not always years to bind 
 
 Sweet ties, — to friendship dearest 
 A glance reveals the kindred mind, 
 To hope's strong vision, clearest. 
 Emblem of life ! dear lady, view 
 
 The rising and the setting sun ! 
 Oh ! may bright beams still rest on you ! 
 Yet, when my weary race is run, 
 Forget me not ! forget me not ! 
 
 " MlLESiNA Bowen, August, 1853." 
 
 The foregoing lines were caused by my having been 
 rather long away from my dear old friend, with whom I
 
 go My African Home ; or, 
 
 feel it quite a privilege to talk ; but when I walk over to 
 her house it takes up the time of two people. Leyland 
 will not let me go alone lest a tiger should eat me up, 
 and then who would there be to tell the tale ? and tigers 
 do not give notice or say "Mind the next time I meet 
 you." However, I did meet with one once, at least one 
 pas-ed close by me and never spoke to me, and I was so 
 busy sketching a tree full of birds' nests hanging from 
 the branches, that I only saw the beast walking away 
 quietly in the long reeds, with, I think, its tail between its 
 legs, from which I supposed I had frightened it more 
 than it had me. Probably I was the first dressed lady 
 it had ever seen, and it did not know what to make of 
 me. Leyland had gone round the lake ; but soon made 
 his appearance to look after me, for he, too, had caught 
 sight of the tiger, and did not know what might have 
 happened to me. 
 
 My journal here seems to have had a little rest, 
 so I cannot do better than fill the gap with an extract 
 from one of my own letters, giving some account of the 
 Zulu missions, as I received it from Mr. Fynn, who has 
 lived many years among them. He says the amount 
 of good the missionaries do is very doubtful, that some 
 of them allow they can scarcely count on a real convert, 
 for with occasion the converts will return to their 
 old ways of living. The missionaries come out with the 
 best intentions to labour in the vineyard, but by-and-by 
 they meet with so much disappointment, that they 
 gradually subside into common traders, like others, 
 farming or making money for themselves. At the same 
 time they are a well-to-do people, and they educate two 
 or three girls in their own house, who become to them- 
 selves very good servants. Mr. Shaw, the head of the 
 Wesleyan missions, has 10,000/. a year under his entire 
 control, for the purposes of the missions and maintenance 
 of the missionaries. 
 
 Of course, men and their families devote themselves to 
 the work , they do it in many instances as a livelihood, 
 and they live better than most of the settlers. 
 
 Most people in a wild country like travelling with 
 wagon and oxen. The other day a spring-van and a
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 91 
 
 pair of horses were seen cantering nicely along the road, 
 creating great admiration and surprise ; it belonged to 
 a Mr. Grout, of the American Mission. Of course " the 
 labourer is worthy of his hire ;" but the sympathy the 
 missionaries get at home for entire disinterestedness is 
 more than is always their due. They have trials and 
 hardships — who has not ? 
 
 The Zulu, who is a keenly avaricious, parsimonious 
 man, will argue with his master thus : " What good will 
 it do me to become a Christian ? I may then have 
 only one wife. Now, I can work and buy one wife, then 
 I work and buy another, who works for me. When I 
 have three wives I am a captain, and do no work at all, 
 so I am better off as I am." 
 
 The gentleman who gave me these particulars said 
 that his wife had come out full of sympathies for the 
 Caffres and missions, and that when, after a while, she 
 wrote home depreciating the value of the work, as in- 
 adequate for the purpose, her friends thought she had 
 soon become very careless of religious duties. 
 
 This gentleman thinks the Caffres of Natal, — who are 
 a fine race of wild men, strong in their bodies, in their 
 prejudices, and in their passions, — are true descendants of 
 Ishmael, who were to live in the presence of their 
 brethren, but of whom nothing is said of their being 
 brought into the fold. There are many Jewish casts of 
 countenance and feature among the Caffres, and the 
 Jewish love of money is a strong feature amongst them. 
 They never spend if they can possibly avoid doing so ; 
 they will receive money to go on a journey from a 
 white man, and, if they cannot beg, they will all but 
 starve rather than part with it. They are fond of good 
 things if provided for them, but will neither purchase 
 for themselves, nor be at the trouble to dress otherwise 
 than in the most savage and easy way. and always 
 return to their mealies. The Ishmaelites may have 
 Abraham's features, as they have him for their father. 
 What are the prophecies regarding the African races ? 
 Ham's descendants spread over Africa, but these Caffres 
 are neither negroes nor Hottentots. 
 The language, by the-bye, is very difficult to learn,
 
 92 My African Home ; or, 
 
 there are so many prefixes, which alter the original 
 meaning of the word, and the sounds of some letters are 
 called "clicks." I saw a grammar made by some of the 
 missionaries, but could not understand it. The Gover- 
 nor has just now ordered the printing of a dictionary, 
 and I believe also a grammar, which are said to be more 
 correct and more intelligible. 
 
 It is next to an impossibility for an English person, 
 not speaking their language fluently, to teach them 
 about the soul and salvation. You have to give them 
 new ideas, as well as principles, and you may convey 
 quite a false meaning to their understanding. Neither 
 is it a very safe way to let English children learn by 
 intercourse with the Caffre ; they learn so much evil. 
 I often wish to do good to my present Caffre, who is a 
 nice, intelligent, quiet lad, but if I try to speak to him 
 he stands stupid and half sullen, and understands nothing 
 but what I show him by movements. 
 
 Ah ! how the Caffres would excite your compassion, 
 while you laughed at their oddities — poor heathen 
 things ! Not heathens either, for I do not think they 
 worship even a stock or a stone, nor do I find it well 
 authenticated that they worship snakes, though some 
 venerate them and are very much afraid of them. 
 
 Ebenezer has just put his hand on two little green 
 birds like green canaries ; I put them in a cage, but they 
 pushed through the bars immediately, and now find my 
 bedroom a narrow prison. We have been watching the 
 graceful flight of some hundreds of them, off and on a 
 large tree, and we wish to examine these two to find out 
 what they are — they are very wild. We let these two 
 go; but some days later we made a capital pudding of a 
 few of the same kind. 
 
 We watched a beautiful humming-bird one day 
 sipping *he sweets of the rich scarlet Caffre-boom, a tree 
 whose flowers and leaves come at different seasons, so 
 that it would appear a scarlet mass without a leaf were 
 it not surrounded by other trees that lend their foliage 
 to clothe the scarlet.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 93 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 September isf, 1853. — Yesterday proved a day of mis- 
 fortunes. To begin with, Gudgeon, who has latterly 
 taken it into his head to provide for himself (which he 
 is quite incapable of doing), had got his week's wages. 
 He set out to make purchases, and not having returned, 
 is doubtless gloriously or dead drunk somewhere, or 
 shut in the lock-up. The consequence is the horses got 
 nothing to eat all day, the fowls he left shut up, rabbits 
 and every creature left to the mercy of providence and 
 Caffres ; and I, in attending to the fowls, have got 
 covered with a tiny insect the twentieth-part size of a 
 flea, and called " lice." 
 
 Leyland returned late at night with a list of grievances. 
 He could not see the people he wanted, so rode home 
 by the farm of one, which took him across country. 
 Seeing some fine mushrooms he dismounted and 
 gathered them into his handkerchief, but in trying to 
 remount my pony, it reared, and knocked him down. 
 He rose, caught the animal, and again tried to mount, 
 but the brute got up on its hind legs, struck out with its 
 fore legs, hit Leyland in two places, and again throwing 
 him down, broke its bridle and made off. Leyland was 
 not much hurt ; he chased the pony for a length of 
 time without success, and walked home. On coming 
 near the river he heard an ox in distress, and knowing 
 he could not assist it alone, he went on to our farm and 
 took Davenport and the Caffres back ; but before they 
 found the ox darkness came on, and they had to leave 
 it to its fate. The Caffre in charge had neglected the 
 oxen, and a dozen were missing from the craal.
 
 94 My African Home ; or, 
 
 At two o'clock to-day my pony made its appearance 
 with two Caffres, who found it some miles distant. The 
 bridle is gone, and one stirrup was brought loose, the 
 other nowhere ; the saddle-cloth all but worked from 
 under the dismantled saddle, so the pony must have 
 been rolling itself among the bushes. Our Caffres are 
 all out searching for the stirrup and oxen, and we must 
 dine as we can to-day, for there is not a Caffre to tend 
 a fire. 
 
 Leyland has gone into Durban with a heavy heart 
 to-day. A case is being tried of his and is to be decided, 
 and Leyland is sure it will be against him, however 
 much justice may be his. 
 
 We have had many troubles which I have not liked 
 to write down in my journal, to make it painful to read ; 
 but even troubles are good for those who love Christ, 
 all working together for good, though it is difficult to 
 feel them so while upon us. 
 
 I had a young girl to help me at this time, daughter 
 of the man Leyland had engaged to take care of the farm. 
 I had everything to teach her, and, though quick and 
 apt, she was so thoroughly careless and idle that Leyland 
 sent her home in disgrace one day with a message never 
 to show herself again. I fear she told me a direct lie, 
 and that at fifteen and a half years is an almost hopeless 
 error. 
 
 We were sorry to part with the Smiths, who have left ; 
 but Smith gets half as much more salary, and his boys 
 go to school and attend the Sunday-school also. I 
 have made Ebenezer a very good servant, but he begins 
 to complain of our late dinners (we have not a servant 
 at work after 8 p.m.), and as his term of engagement is 
 nearly up, I fear he will want, like the rest, to go home 
 for a few months. Ebenezer, with occasional help from 
 Mrs. Smith, served us three months, and though our 
 dinners were not quite in English fashion from under 
 silver covers, we had some very good ones, and not ill 
 turned out ; frequently a gentleman or two partaking 
 with us. Yesterday (September 12) we had a haunch 
 of venison for our two selves, of Gudgeon's shooting,
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 95 
 
 for he is back, poor penitent, and "can't tell what took 
 him so." We had Windsor beans, yam, and soup, but no 
 pudding. We made Amatingoola preserve, a substitute 
 for red currant jelly, to eat with the venison. 
 
 I have been preserving lemon syrup, of which I can 
 only do a little at a time on our parlour grate. My pan 
 has unfortunately a moving handle (for convenience of 
 travel), and Leyland, finding me busy one evening, took 
 my place to help, but not understanding the handle, the 
 pan upset, and half the syrup was landed on the floor. 
 Our " helps " were all off to their homes or beds, so there 
 was nothing for it but down on my knees and wash it 
 up myself. Leyland did not like to witness the finale ; 
 he carried out the sugary mat, and took himself off to 
 bed, whither I soon followed. The papaw fruit makes 
 a beautiful preserve, though scarcely equal in flavour to 
 English fruit. 
 
 Mrs. Bowen has sent me some lovely roses, and to 
 show what will grow in this climate I will name the 
 flowers of a bouquet I had yesterday, consisting of 
 lupins, blue and yellow, larkspur, sweet-william, double 
 and single stock, all healthy ; also a very beautiful 
 Norfolk Island willow, bearing a yellow button-flower 
 like an acacia. 
 
 Of fruits, scarcely any will not grow if planted and 
 cared for, but there seem to be few native fruits fit to 
 eat. We grow orange, lemon, lime, mulberry, quince, 
 grapes, pines, peaches, nectarines, and granadillas. 
 
 Mrs. Fry says that some people are tried with poverty 
 and some with riches. How few if they had the choice 
 would not prefer being tried with wealth ; but I am 
 not sure of it being the easiest, though the most luxu- 
 rious, nor do I think it is always the happiest. I often 
 think of my mother's recommendation to us as girls 
 to go and shake up the mattresses for our health's 
 sake, and the small success her advice met with where 
 there were plenty of servants ; but I find my active life 
 in Natal by no means unpleasant, nor do I feel degraded 
 by performing many a little menial office. I should 
 soon grow insipid and ennuyce, if I had to make my
 
 96 My African Home ; or, 
 
 daily occupations. As it is, I never need seek em- 
 ployment, it is ready for my hand each moment of the 
 day. 
 
 It is evening (September 15th) ; Leyland is writing 
 opposite to me ; the tea-things are on the table and 
 the kettle on the hearth. We are to have cocoa, 
 shrimps sent by a friend, and a famous loaf of my 
 making. Fish is not commonly sold ; Caffres seem 
 never to eat it, and only one man hitherto has made 
 a trade of it. Mullet are abundant, and there are good 
 oysters of irregular shapes. A gentleman caught a fine 
 Cape salmon in the bay, five feet long. 
 
 September 2yd. — What would my English friends 
 have thought could they have seen me during the last 
 half-hour squatted on the hearth with the bellows in 
 hand, most industriously coaxing a very obstinate wood 
 fire, which after four days of perpetual rain is very 
 unwilling to light ? It was a good lesson for patience, 
 and has been conquered at last — not for warmth, but 
 for household purposes, first to boil some muslins, while 
 I have clear rain-water in which to wash them, and 
 secondly for dinner, which otherwise we might chance 
 to go without. The house Caffre has been sent into 
 Durban, and will take his time. Rain continued from 
 Monday afternoon till Friday ; we both took cold, but 
 were tolerably comfortable with a fire, cooking and 
 reading by turns, and have fared very well. If we had 
 a good kitchen and apparatus we could manage nicely, 
 but in wet weather the fire is lighted on the floor of the 
 iron house, the smoke from which is intolerable to any 
 but a Caffre, and he has found himself very snug and 
 warm sitting in the midst of it doing nothing. 
 
 Some of the notes I received from my dear aged 
 friend and neighbour (Mrs. Bowen) give so vivid a 
 picture of the minor trials which make up the sum of 
 human life in Natal at this early period of its English 
 history, that I must quote- from them occasionally, and 
 introduce more perfectly my very interesting and clever 
 friend of seventy-six years of age, whose solitary life 
 here in the wilderness is so singular, and to all outward
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 97 
 
 appearance so sad, without a connection to cheer her 
 last years. 
 
 I wish I could convey to my readers a more vivid 
 picture of my dearly valued and loved old friend. 
 Imagine a small, slender, antiquated, stooping figure, a 
 quick and piercing eye, a mouth without a tooth in it, 
 and nose and chin forming what are familiarly termed 
 nut-crackers ; but, withal, such a look of mind and graceful 
 dignity, combined with gentle but determined resolution, 
 that even strong men were afraid of her. Here is a 
 spirited note of hers : — 
 
 " That man Galliers was here on Friday, and promised 
 to make a new gate for my bijou' garden, and fix it up 
 on Saturday afternoon; he was consequential enough 
 about it, said he had plenty of work in the bay, &c. I 
 reminded him of when he sought employment for himself 
 and wife in a very different spirit, which appeared to 
 make some impression. He made many professions, 
 but there they end, and my poor gate is nearly ended 
 too ; I quite expect each time I open it to be knocked 
 on the head ! Troubles thicken and seldom come single. 
 On Friday morning my Illovo Yahoo left me, and I 
 received so very unfavourable a character of one who 
 offered on Thursday that I could not venture to take him. 
 At present I have not heard of another. A person came 
 on Sunday morning to tell my gardener his wife was 
 dangerously ill and he must go home ; she has lately 
 been confined of her sixth child — the eldest, only ten, 
 is a girl, and some help to her mother — the second, a 
 boy of nine, was luckily here with his father, so he stayed 
 to help me while his father was away. He returned 
 about six o'clock, sooner than he has ever done before ; 
 but he thought a good deal of his little son, a trifle more 
 or less for the pack ox, and, maybe, a minimum for the 
 mistress and favours received. I am glad to find his 
 wife has excellent neighbours ; they have not sent to-day, 
 and he wants to go and see her again to-morrow. Fire 
 and water wanted, — wind and rain too much of! Oh! 
 the minor miseries of human life do, I think, engross 
 them all ! Oh, no ! I wish at least that you, my dear 
 
 H
 
 9S My African Home ; or, 
 
 friend, and a few others whom I love dearly, were 
 exempt from them — a forlorn hope ; let me hear from 
 you soon, and fail not to give me some good news. 
 " Very kindly and truly yours, 
 
 ' " M. BOWEX." 
 
 Here is another letter written about this time : — 
 " Oh, how do you bear this dismal weather — with, like 
 myself, innumerable discomforts to boot? I cannot 
 write cheerfully, yet I must needs write somewhat, for 
 I have no other companions than my pen, my books, and 
 my own oft-times weary and mostly troubled thoughts ! 
 Alas ! my gourd is withered, my idol is defaced, thrown 
 down, almost destroyed, and 'dost thou well to be 
 angry f No, no! I am humbled and sorrowful, but while 
 I feel the rod, I know who hath appointed it, and at 
 least endeavour to submit with patient resignation ; but 
 I will explain a little, for doubtless it is requisite to a 
 due understanding of this tale of lamentation, weeping, 
 and woe ! Well then, to begin ; some time ago Captain 
 Garden called here and asked to bring a friend of his, 
 who is botanizing in Natal, to see my exotics, and so it 
 was to be. But they chose yesterday for their visit ; 
 everything wore a gloomy, cheerless aspect, I was really 
 unwell. After having struggled with the wind in the morn- 
 ing, — had my light meal called dinner, — I was weeding 
 to warm myself, when two gentlemen rode up and said 
 ' good morning' (it was past 4 p.m.!). Will the sun go 
 back on the dial of Ahaz, because that proud creature, 
 man, has not dined ? I know fashion has long sanctioned 
 the silly custom, but it is not the less absurd and pre- 
 posterous; I generally answer f good day,' for that is 
 correct, but one often thoughtlessly follows a multitude 
 to do foolishly. But to my story : I could not refuse 
 to take them round about to see what could be seen, 
 and truly it proved a source of mortification to me, and 
 of evident disappointment to the stranger. Captain 
 Garden was astonished at the scene of desolation which 
 presented itself: fences good-for-nothing, gate nearly 
 done for ; but the dear Poincianae Pulcherina grieved me
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 99 
 
 sadly, the few leaves still remaining looked like dried 
 parsley; there were no leaves on the papaws, — cocoa-nuts 
 departed, — the row of bananas on the long walk, which 
 so lately as on Sunday were all alive and likely, re- 
 sembled, dahlias in England after a sharp, frosty night ! 
 In short, a look of chilling and rather contemptuous 
 wonder was my reward for all my exertions, veiled, 
 
 indeed, with quiet politeness, for Mr. A is certainly 
 
 a well-bred gentleman, and for this very reason I re- 
 gretted he should find his visit so inopportune. I could 
 only tell him I shall be glad to see him another time ; 
 but when can all this mischief be repaired ? In some 
 
 respects never ! In the evening Mrs. B and her 
 
 son rode up. I reminded her of the promised papaw 
 receipt, she said it was all guess-work with her ; but I 
 have no doubt you and I can manage without it. I am 
 only half-way through the second volume of Lord 
 Woodhouselee's excellently written ' Universal History,' 
 but I shall inflict a long dissertation thereon, or rather 
 on my reminiscences, in another scribbling fit, so I hope 
 you will be prepared with a sufficient stock of patience 
 to endure it ! I have scarcely left room to tell you with 
 how much love I am, 
 
 " Yours very affectionately, 
 
 " M. Bowen." 
 
 But her letters would fill a volume of themselves, and 
 are full of spirit, character, information, and interest. 
 Her criticisms upon eminent characters in the last 
 century or beginning of this were sometimes both 
 cutting and merited. 
 
 October ^th, 1853. — I have lent my only servant, and 
 he a Caffre, to help Gudgeon to-day, who was in 
 despair at not having a single Caffre for out-door work. 
 It is the time when the ripened mealies tempt all the 
 Caffres to idleness, and they set off to their craals for 
 two or three months to live at ease and do nothing. 
 The farmer has only two Caffres just now ; one of 
 them is a little boy who attends to the cattle at pasture. 
 Yesterday he came running to us in a fright, having 
 
 H 2
 
 My African Home; or, 
 
 seen a large tiger feasting on a dead cow, which un- 
 fortunately was not poisoned. The tiger had paid a visit 
 to our hen-house in the night and killed three beautiful 
 hens, but being disturbed left them for our dinner. He 
 may have taken one off in his mouth. A jackal stole 
 some of our white Chinese fowls a few nights ago from 
 close beside our dwelling-house. The night was stormy, 
 so my husband did not hear the disturbance, and the 
 jackal got clear off with his booty; but we shall be on the 
 watch to give him a shot if he returns. It takes but a 
 moment to jump out of bed and seize the gun, which 
 lies ready loaded, and our room opens into the garden. 
 
 I am becoming a very fair cook, all things considered. 
 I can bake, roast, boil, broil, fry, make capital soups, 
 prepare the vegetables, and boil rice, &c, but I cannot 
 make a really first-rate rice pudding. I have lately 
 learned to churn. Leyland is my instructor, and we have 
 enjoyed delicious butter, with our own made bread. 
 We churn in a wide-necked bottle, taking turns of 
 shaking it well, both in fun and earnest as our red 
 faces testify. 
 
 We have a beautiful plantation of papaw-fruit trees, 
 raised from seeds out of the fruit Mrs. Bowen gave us 
 last year. One tree is a good deal higher than I am, 
 and next year it will bear. We have besides some fine 
 trees full of fruit, which grows clustering round the 
 main stem under the leaves, some of it nearly as large 
 as my head, but we have to watch the fruit as it ripens, 
 or the birds will be before us in eating the inside out. 
 The pines, which w^re mere shoots last year, are already 
 beginning to fruit ; pines take two years to come to 
 perfection. Wesent the Caffre into Durban with half- 
 a-dozen fine pines for sale, slung on a stick over his 
 shoulder. A friend seeing him go along thus laden, 
 told us it made him think of the pictures of the great 
 bunch of grapes which Caleb and the other spies brought 
 from the valley of Eshcol to prove to Moses how good a 
 land it was. Our Caffre sold all our pines quickly enough, 
 but for sixpence each, instead of one and sixpence! 
 Beautiful as this country is, I — like many others —
 
 Bush Life in Natal. ioi 
 
 begin to think a curse is over it. Trouble and dis- 
 appointment come to every planter's labour, in whatever 
 way he tries to cultivate the ground. The Governor, 
 too, talks of taxing us still, more, which the Durbanites 
 mean to resist, as they are not satisfied with the manner 
 in which the present taxes are being applied. They 
 think a too expensive system is carried over a very 
 small and poor population unable to bear it, and that 
 very little is done for the colony, the chief part being 
 expended on salaries and placemen. 
 
 The withdrawal of the Oueen from "the sovereignty" 
 is regarded as unwise, as likely to endanger the peace 
 and safety of Natal, by inducing hostilities so much 
 nearer us. Our quiet Caffres have strong, active bodies 
 when they choose to use them, and they are increasing 
 too fast among us — flying to our milder government. 
 They may rise when they become strong, and become 
 chiefs in turn. But this is the dark side of the picture; 
 while Natal is steadily progressing, lands are being 
 cultivated, and farmers are more hopeful. The first to 
 venture are always the losers 
 
 The sovereignty was thriving, but the Boers are stern 
 masters, and there will be a hard struggle between 
 them and the Caffres, whom (if they subdue) they will 
 perhaps enslave, and. when England's check is taken off, 
 another Mrs. Beecher Stowe will be required to rouse 
 men's consciences. I have been told that Natal has 
 never cost England a sixpence, and that, poor as it is, 
 it has supported itself. Surely, therefore, it is a credit- 
 able little colony, and should be protected. 
 
 I have been feeding three little chickens which are 
 under my especial patronage. One is a poor little 
 timid orphan without a relation except a wicked aunt, 
 and a still more spiteful grandmother, who peck and 
 persecute the poor thing so that I have to watch and 
 feed it by stealth. None of the others take it up, and 
 it lives alone in the world. Gudgeon takes it to sleep 
 with him, and Ebenezer and I give it crumbs. Its 
 mother and father fell a prey to the tiger or jackal ; its 
 sisters and brothers made dainty meals for the hawk,
 
 102 My African Home; or, 
 
 such as escaped the flood a few weeks ago when many 
 perished by inclement weather. We had tremendous 
 rains during ten days. While some plantings rejoiced 
 in them, young seeds were washed out, and some valuable 
 China grass sprouts entirely disappeared. Another storm 
 is brewing ; I hope my husband will reach home before 
 it breaks out, for when rain does visit this very fine, dry 
 climate there is no mistake about it. A brilliant comet 
 is visible. The winter has been cold for this country; 
 spring is like equinoctial gales. We have enjoyed 
 wood-fire continually in the mornings and evenings 
 keeping it in with the utmost patience and perseverance 
 owing to the damp state of the wood. But here comes 
 my husband, and with him the rain. I have secured 
 five fine large papaws, which will be an agreeable addi- 
 tion to our bread and butter. Leyland has poisoned a 
 dead cow, and this morning a hyena — about as large as 
 a donkey — was found lying dead beside its dainty 
 morsel. He has been watching, too, in hopes of shoot- 
 ing the depredating tiger himself, while I have bravely 
 slept in the house quite alone, with one door unlocked 
 to enable him to enter if he should return before I 
 am up. 
 
 A gentleman, who is planting sugar largely further up 
 the country, rode out to see our progress and was greatly 
 struck with the beauty of our situation, and indeed it is 
 a lovely spot with its glorious sunrise and sunset, the 
 view stretching over a great extent of country, with the 
 bay and the Indian Ocean in front. But it is sadly dis- 
 heartening too, for all our labour gets destroyed by 
 wild animals in one shape or other. In the next genera- 
 tion, perhaps, these difficulties will be overcome, but 
 pioneers like ourselves are the sufferers. Still we live 
 very comfortably, often luxuriously (though not accord- 
 ing to European ideas), in spite of all these troubles. 
 
 Yesterday my fear came true — Ebenezer wants to go 
 to his craal. After much talking to, he reluctantly con- 
 sented to stay three days, because I have no one to 
 supply his place. We have made him quite the best 
 sen ant we have had in the colony ; he has a good, clear
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 103 
 
 head, is very quiet, does his work nicely, and is strictly 
 faithful and honest. I quite like Ebenezer, and am sure 
 he will not be so well off in his craal ; but " the dog 
 returns to his vomit, and the sow that was washed to 
 her wallowing in the mire," and I suppose nature, with 
 love of home, is strongly implanted in the Caffre, and 
 he will ever prefer his wilderness, with his ease and filth, 
 to domestic cultivated habits. We had even made him 
 become tolerably active. Who shall we get next ? A 
 nice Christian Caffre girl brought a note to-day ; I 
 asked if she knew any one who wants to work, but 
 she says, "No." She was a great friend of "Louisa" 
 while she was with us ; she tells me she " not know 
 where she is." " Is she married ? " " Very likely," was 
 the reply. Another Caffre trait — they were sworn friends 
 while near each other.
 
 104 My African Home ; or, 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 My husband told Mr. yesterday, who was lamenting 
 
 that his wife would do nothing and was never contented, 
 that I did everything. I must have spent an hour to- 
 day trying to do a wild flower for Mrs. Bowen — it is 
 a very delicate and lovely sort of lily — a blue lilac 
 in small stars, with white stars in the centre of each 
 flower. I have given the character, but not the beauty 
 or delicacy of the flower, yet it has cost me two or three 
 hours' work. 
 
 October l\th. — We have been packing a box of eggs to- 
 day for the steamer — twenty-eight dozen — and we have 
 plenty for our own use, so our hens do well. The tiger 
 lias been supping off our fowls for some time, which has 
 obliged us to bring them from the farm nearer to the 
 house ; the consequence is, Mr. Tiger v disappointed of his 
 dainty bit, has disturbed Mrs. Galliers, poor woman, who 
 lives up the other hill. She ran here this morning in a 
 fright, saying she dare not sleep alone, and must send 
 for her husband ; she fears its breaking into her house ! 
 Many of the cottages are very frail things, made of 
 reeds and mud ; but I never heard of an animal break- 
 ing into them. This tiger must be watched for and 
 shot. 
 
 I have no servant at all for the house, just now. 
 Ebenezer, my " stone of help" so long, has gone to his 
 craal, saying he does not mean to work again. Old 
 Gudgeon is much more fussy, and he is so useful in the 
 garden when he has finished with his animals, that I 
 grudge taking up his time about the house. 
 
 We are none of us very well at present, everybody is 
 complaining. Charming as this climate frequently is,
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 105 
 
 I begin to think the English atmosphere suits English 
 people best. The Caffres are a strong, firmly knit, sturdy 
 race, in their tight, shining, brown leather skins. The 
 English suffer from a variety of causes ; I had some 
 curious affection of my head three nights ago, that 
 frightened my husband so, that he ran off to bring our 
 neighbour, Mrs. Galliers, and the first thing I recognized 
 was one on each side of my bed, and the blood rushing 
 round in my head. The doctor has been to see me, and 
 reminded me how I told him after my serious illness last 
 year, that I must stay with my husband if it should 
 shorten mv life ten years ; but, though a relaxing climate, 
 I cannot think it unhealthy. It is all that men have to 
 go through that brings them down, and that, as the 
 colony advances, will be less difficult. As I have said 
 before, it h the pioneers in a young colony who suffer. 
 
 Our watches and clocks have all stopped and the sun 
 has never shown himself to day, so we must guess the 
 hour. We have had the most severe winter on record — 
 so say the wise ones — storms of every description, with 
 damp and cold. Further inland there have been snow 
 and frost. Our beautiful pine-apple plants are nipped 
 by the cold ; the leaves have all fallen from the bananas 
 and papaws. Twenty-five of these last fruits have just 
 been brought in, averaging the size of my head nearly ; 
 the birds eat them very much ; they are a pleasant, whole- 
 some fruit, but not piquant. The bananas are a delicious 
 fruit, and the birds cannot so easily get at them, owing 
 to their tough skin. Some kind of large rat has been 
 busy with our sugar-canes lately ; but we had a very 
 heavy crop of oat hay, which is already rising again 
 fast. 
 
 Poor drunken Gudgeon has been making himself 
 most useful during our total blank of servants, but I 
 dread sending him with a message into Durban, and 
 there is no one else to send. How long this scarcity 
 will last I cannot tell. I have swept the rooms myself 
 for two days. I don't mind the work itself, for one 
 must do something ; but a tidy, trustworthy woman in 
 the kitchen department would be a great comfort.
 
 io6 My African Home ; or, 
 
 15///. — We have got a new Caffre, who has perfumed 
 the house with his aroma though he did not come 
 further than the entrance. Ebenczer was quite sweet. 
 We can hardly let this one enter the house. Really, we 
 are at a bad pass, and the loss of the Smiths from the 
 farm is great ; but it is to be their gain, and all works 
 round fur good in the end. 
 
 Everything looks gloomy just now ; there is nothing 
 cheerful about me but our two kittens ; the clouds are 
 weeping, the landscape obscured. Short of servants, I am 
 saving the fire on account of cutting wood for it. Gud- 
 geon, weeding the pine beds, looks weak and ill to-day, 
 and everything has a chill and dismal aspect. The 
 people are displeased with the English Government for 
 breaking faith and abandoning the sovereignty, when 
 farming up the country was beginning to promise well, 
 and people all were " looking up." The Dutch farms 
 were doing well, and now no one knows what effect this 
 move will have on Natal, and they feel they are work- 
 ing in the dark. 
 
 We have had a very pleasant visitor for a few days in 
 Mr. George Eastwood, so one day my husband and I 
 left him in charge of the house, and took a stroll, intend- 
 ing to make a sketch of the hill from a little distance with 
 our various small buildings on it. It was the anniver- 
 sary of our wedding day, so we resolved to have a 
 holiday. We returned home laden with wild flowers of 
 great beauty, and found our friend decorating the room 
 with flowers from the garden. Neither had he neglected 
 the kitchen : we had a piece of pork, a pie, some good 
 soup, yams, and a dessert that would not have disgraced 
 an English table — a splendid bunch of bananas, with a 
 fine papaw top and bottom. Two gentlemen rode out 
 from Durban to share the good things, and after dinner 
 we tried the fashionable amusement of table-turning, 
 making both a hat and a small square table go round, 
 without any guile on our part that I could discover. To 
 my surprise 1 found the gentlemen intended remaining 
 all night, being so far on their way to another farm. 
 However, I gave myself no trouble ; there were two beds
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 107 
 
 ready, and the third gentleman lay on the floor wrapped 
 in a kaross. They left before we were up in the morn- 
 ing-, and we were not late. 
 
 October lgt/i. — We were eating a very fine papaw to- 
 day, when it occurred to us to preserve its fellow ; so, 
 while my husband undertook to keep up the wood fire, I 
 weighed fruit and sugar, and following my receipt which 
 specified " no water," I ignorantly put the sugar in the 
 pan to melt before the fruit was added, and in two 
 minutes barley sugar began to form. Alas, for the mess 
 it made ! Emptying the pan as quickly as possible, 
 separating the candy from the sugar, I placed a little 
 water in the bottom of the pan, and b >iled the half and 
 half into a liquid, taking out the candy as it loosened. 
 Then cleaning the pan out, we put in fruit and sugar 
 with the sugar water, when a beautiful preserve began 
 to form ; but it required patience and much skimming 
 and stooping over the fire. Not wishing to lose the 
 candied sugar, I said I would make it into toffy. So, 
 fearing my husband's raillery, I popped it into the pan 
 with a lump of butter, when he came to the rescue, and 
 made the toffy himself ! We had a good deal of fun 
 over it, but no light work with all the sticky dishes 
 to clean. It was now or never with the pans and 
 spoons while we had a fire and hot water, so I cleaned 
 away at them like any servant, and by the time they 
 were all clean, it was high time for my bread to go into 
 the bakepan. Gudgeon, however, did that part, and he 
 made ready our dinner from the leavings of yesterday ; 
 while I washed my hands, brushed my hair, and wrote 
 up in my journal. From the look of the sky it must be 
 near six o'clock, so I have had nearly twelve hours' 
 work ! And now dinner is over, and we may settle to 
 finish reading our letters, and tea, and then to bed and 
 sound sleep. 
 
 October 20th. — The first thing after breakfast to-day my 
 husband told me he had a long ride in prospect for me, 
 as soon as the washing-up was done. It proved indeed 
 both a long and beautiful ride, and a very agreeable day. 
 We went first across country over a rough, steep track,
 
 108 My African -Home ; or, 
 
 at places almost grown over, but very beautiful — the hills 
 undulating, and patched with bush and grass, covered 
 with wild flowers scenting the air deliciously. 
 
 One splendid Natal lily was in full flower, looking 
 like the queen of flowers in the wilderness ; or, at a 
 sufficient distance, like a white lamb lying on the grass. 
 The handsome orange-coloured shrub ( Virtaola, capen- 
 sis) was in full flower. We crossed a good many brooks, 
 rivers, or ditches. Three of the streams were so deep 
 that I had to hold my feet up above the stirrup, the pony 
 being above the middie in water. Sometimes the way 
 was so steep it was like the ascent of a mountain on horse- 
 back for short distances, and one step after a stream 
 was so deep, that Leyland called out, " Well done ! I 
 expected you to come off." At another little ditch, where 
 the ground was clay, Leyland's horse, just in front of 
 mine, slipped. Whether or not mine saw I cannot tell, 
 but to my surprise it made a spring and carried me over 
 the slippery ground. I called out, " Well done, pony ! " 
 but my husband clapped me on the back, and said, 
 "Well done, you!" If I had ever been a good or 
 famous rider, I should not brag of these feats. We are 
 always most vain of those accomplishments in which we 
 least excel. Why ? Because they are the most difficult 
 to us, and give us the most trouble to attain even 
 mediocrity therein. What we effect with ease seems 
 less to us. 
 
 The object of our ride was to visit a farm, where we 
 found a nice, well-ordered family of seven children : the 
 eldest is nearly twelve years — she superintends the 
 kitchen. The second is baby's nurse ; the third, a little 
 thing about five years old, takes care of her little brother 
 aged two or three years — she washes his face and hands 
 for dinner, and attends to him generally. The two 
 eldest boys, about eight and nine years old, are dark, 
 swarthy, sunburnt young lads. We dined with them, 
 and as I have mentioned the cook, aged twelve years, 
 I may as well tell of the good dinner she gave us, 
 which consisted of roasted fowls and potatoes, after 
 which boiled nee and jam, with milk ; after partaking
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 109 
 
 of which, we started on our long ride home, going by 
 the road, instead of returning as we came by the 
 " veldt." We had a lovely ride through bushy sand 
 lanes, with wild flowers on each side, and a fine view, 
 from the heights, of Durban, its bay, the Bluff, and the 
 islands. We got home about five o'clock, and Gud- 
 geon had a tough old cock ready for us, of which 
 we gave him the larger share. 
 
 Our English papers induced us to sit up rather late 
 reading. The cart also had returned from the Point 
 laden with our famous box of hams, bacon, cheeses, 
 and preserved salmon, sent by kind friends from 
 England. We instantly began to unpack our trea- 
 sures, more especially as rain threatened, and the box 
 was too heavy to bring in packed. Famous hams 
 they are, in beautiful order, that will afford us many 
 a rich feast and nice variety from the tough beef of 
 the colony. 
 
 The rain did come down, but not heavily ; the 
 previous night we had an awful thunderstorm, the rapid 
 fork-lightning came flash after flash without inter- 
 mission, while the thunder shook the house as it rolled 
 and roared. There is a great deal of lightning here, 
 which is doubtless useful in destroying myriads of insects 
 which swarm and devour all around. 
 
 Old Gudgeon called me yesterday to look at a flight 
 of swallows hither and thither over one spot, but they 
 did not alight on the ground. Gudgeon said they were 
 eating the winged ants, in proof of which he took me 
 to a spot under the swallows where was a nest open, 
 i.e. little chinks like walls were being built by a quantity 
 of white ants, and out of these chinks were issuing large 
 black ants with four long gossamer wings. Gudgeon's 
 natural history tells me these ants were just matured and 
 winged, and that, as they rose in the air, the swallows 
 caught them. He learned this in India. It seemed to 
 be the case, for as the winged ants ceased to issue from 
 the fissures of earth, the swallows very quickly dispersed, 
 and we saw no more of them. The swallows had evi- 
 dently a purpose, and the scene was like a right with an
 
 no My African Home; or, 
 
 invisible enemy, for I could not see the ants so far up 
 in the air. 
 
 A lovely morn g rose after the storm. My husband 
 set out for Durban ; Gudgeon made himself smart to 
 carry a buck to Mr Durham, and if he did not keep his 
 promise to be back quickly to do the work of the 
 kitchen, I should be left entirely alone, as I thought, 
 for the day, and might have the fire to keep up and 
 dinner to cook myself. Presently, however, back came 
 Leyland, accompanied by our old farm-servant Smith, 
 on some business, so instead of a quiet day it proved a 
 very busy one indeed, though I got help from the unex- 
 pected guests. First there was luncheon to provide and 
 serve, and then we set vigorously to work to preserve 
 our mulberries on our little parlour grate, and six quarts 
 of jam we made amongst us ; Gudgeon never coming 
 back at all. We went to bed very tired and not in the 
 best of humours, and when I rose in the morning there 
 ■was still no sign of any one about. No Gudgeon 
 appeared. We lit our parlour fire, boiled our kettle, and 
 made our own breakfast, Leyland doing most of the 
 work, for I have caught cold and do not feel very well. 
 The day is wet and dismal, and I ache all over. Our 
 neighbour, old Mrs. Bowen, is almost as badly off. The 
 lazy Caffres ought to be made to work, as one of the 
 conditions of giving them refuge in the country. They 
 fly to the protection of the English Government ; but 
 they are free, and do not care to work. Dear old Mrs. 
 Bowen is not sure if she will have a servant at all to- 
 morrow, which is hard at nearly eighty years of age ; but 
 her spirit rises with her increased troubles, and she 
 writes me word she feels rather elastic than depressed, 
 adding that these things cannot go beyond the per- 
 mission granted by " Our Father." Our neighbour, 
 Mrs. Galliers, has offered to help both of us, which, with 
 her own cottage and two children, will be more than 
 she can manage. As to our troublesome, half-witted 
 Gudgeon, he has made up a bundle of his clothes and 
 marched off without one word to us, telling them as he 
 passed the farm that he was going to Maritzberg ! — I
 
 Bush Life in Natal. hi 
 
 conclude to Captain Stephenson's again ; he ran off from 
 him once, and the captain horse-whipped him the next 
 time he met him, but Gudgeon bears no malice. 
 
 We remained in this uncomfortable state without a 
 servant for several days. The Caffres had a'l gone off 
 to eat mealies at their craals ; the " Diggings " have 
 taken away many of the white servants to Australia 
 and most of those who remain have a small patch of 
 land of their own, and, as Captain Garden said the other 
 day, " when they get twenty acres of land, they fancy 
 themselves great independent people, quite too high to 
 go out to work, though they may be living off mealies 
 at home." But though we are better served without 
 them, we feel it rather too long a picnic, and if our 
 manner of life sounded like gipsying while we were 
 comparatively civilized, I wonder what it would be 
 considered now ! 
 
 By-the-bye, the heat is at times so great in the sun 
 that I rarely wear gloves in the garden, and having 
 always had an aversion to sweep the streets with my 
 clothes, I lift my dress here more than ever, hiding my 
 hands under its folds. The blue spectacles are charming 
 for softening the light, but I cannot pop them on every 
 time I run out to the kitchen. For airing the linen in 
 the sun they are invaluable, and this occupation, which 
 must come occasionally, is about the most trying and 
 fatiguing work that falls to my lot, though it sounds 
 but a little one. I still think I prefer this active life to 
 sitting at rug-work or making morning calls. But you 
 know when the frogs wanted a king, they got .one that 
 ate them all up. There is great satisfaction in feeling 
 useful to some one, and that I have. I learn many a 
 practical lesson, too, in cooking ; I used to feel I was 
 in the hands of my servants, but hereafter I shall be 
 better able to direct them, so good springs out where it 
 seems all evil. 
 
 I have got some beautiful flowers for your work, so 
 I hope you will send me rich-coloured wools of their 
 kinds — a primrose colour amongst them, some of that 
 rich new China-blue cobalt, gamboge, to shade into
 
 ii2 My African Home; or, 
 
 scarlet or vermilion, pink-lilacs and blue-lilacs ; you 
 cannot send them too brilliant to match the flowers of 
 Natal. There is no great variety in the colours of the 
 foliage ; I may here name some of the wonderful 
 varieties of flowers that grow wild in this country. 
 First the scarlet Caffre boom-tree (the Virtoola capeusis), 
 a shrub; a white dog-rose, a creeper; poligula; lobelia; 
 daimella; gloriosa superba; ipomcea; agapanthus; scilla; 
 bulthemia-oranticum ; gardenia, a shrub ; with a white 
 bell-flower, deliciously perfumed ; the hemanthus or 
 Natal poppy ; a white clematis, a delicate and lovely 
 creeper, besides very many others whose names I do 
 not know. Besides the native flowers, any that are 
 planted from other countries seem to thrive. A curious 
 and handsome kind of orchis, of a pale green, has 
 been blooming in a glass of water for the last 
 fortnight. 
 
 October 241/1, 1853. — Not a Caffre even at the farm. 
 Yesterday, as we were reading the Church Service, in 
 walked Gudgeon and sat down very quietly behind the 
 door, kneeling when we knelt. We thought he was 
 penitent and had returned to his work, and so he surely 
 did intend, or, as he expressed to Mrs. Galliers, " to make 
 terms with master;" but perhaps the chapters for the 
 day, which twice reproved drunkenness, offended him ; 
 he may have thought we chose them on purpose, for so 
 soon as prayers were ended he walked off again, and we 
 have to feed fowls, rabbits, and horses ourselves, with a 
 little help from worthy Mrs. Galliers, who goes between 
 our house, her own, and poor Mrs. Bowen's (now wholly 
 without a servant) as she can make time, while her own 
 husband is at work in the bay, and her little good boy 
 of four years takes charge of his little sister of nearly 
 two years old. As to Mrs. Bowen, she will have to boil 
 her own kettle if she would have a warm breakfast to- 
 morrow, but a neighbour kindly sends her Caffre to light 
 her fire. 
 
 I rose at six, and commenced giving the room a 
 thorough sweeping, while Leyland went to the outdoor 
 work. I was in the midst of dust, in dressing-gown and
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 113 
 
 curl-papers peeping from under my night-cap, when 
 Mrs. Galliers came running in to help ; but, before she 
 could say why, Leyland called me, and in sheer mis- 
 chief was dragging in Mr. Proudfoot to look at me at 
 my occupation. I have said, in sheer mischief, but I 
 believe in my heart, it was affection made him do it, — 
 pride in his wife, who was not above her duty, nor sink- 
 ing under it in discontent. To do Mr. Proudfoot justice, 
 I must say he seemed as unwilling to come forward and 
 catch me as I should have been to have gone forward, 
 had I known why Leyland whistled for me in such a 
 hurry. As it was, we laughed and blushed it off. The 
 gentlemen went to the rabbits, while I dressed, and 
 Mrs. Galliers made breakfast ready. When they came 
 in again I was mixing scones, and I found they had 
 been frying eggs and bacon, and yams, and we made a 
 capital breakfast. The sun rose in a heat mist, like a 
 dense fog in the distance, and the day has been the first 
 of real summer ; but the evening has closed threatening 
 rain unless the high wind just risen blows it off. The 
 winged ants were out of their holes in quantities, but no 
 swallows to-day. We have been as quiet as possible, 
 and have read and worked and drawn, and visited our 
 live stock, walking over to the farm which looked very 
 desolate without the family of Smiths. 
 
 October 2$tk. — Dr. Cunninghame rode out this fore- 
 noon, bringing two gentlemen with him. They made 
 a pleasant chatty call, staying about half an hour. I 
 felt my pretty blue muslin dress was rather dirty, though 
 clean enough for the maid of all work, but perhaps I 
 thought worse of it than it merited, for Leyland said it 
 looked " very nice." I told the gentlemen we were 
 without servants, which they said was a general case in 
 the colony. 
 
 26th. — To-day we had two Caffres working very 
 pleasantly in the garden, but they have struck work 
 under Davenport at the farm ; they don't like the man, 
 telling him there is enough for them to do over here in 
 the garden, and as he has no control over his own 
 children, it is not likely he will manage the Caffres well. 
 
 I
 
 ii4 My African Home; or, 
 
 We must get rid of him. They say " the man who can 
 help himself is his own best servant," but I shall be glad 
 to get a good servant to work for me ; still, rather than 
 have another " Frances " I will go on awhile. 
 
 2jth. — We had an invitation to go to a ball to-night 
 in the country ; if wet, it was to be put off till to- 
 morrow — a necessary arrangement with bad roads and 
 a dark night. We declined, however, and as it is wet, I 
 scarcely think the dance will come off. I am glad we 
 are not going ; it would require the ball-going love of a 
 girl in her " teens " to have ridden out on such a night 
 a good many miles, dressing after we arrived, and then 
 returning in the same way in early morning. Yet read 
 our day's work, and say is that better ? " Yes, it is, for 
 that is duty." Leyland wakened me at six, saying the 
 Caffre was lighting the fire, and I had better give him 
 meal for porridge. I quickly donned my dressing-gown 
 and bonnet, ran out with the requisites, and breakfast 
 was soon ready. It was a raw nasty morning ; the only 
 beautiful things I saw were two buckets full of pure 
 clear rain-water to gladden my sight, left by the storm 
 that had passed in the night, for such it proved, and yet 
 I was told afterwards that the ball did actually take 
 place. Our fire was good. I spent the morning standing 
 over it, for papaws were spoiling, and had to be made 
 into jam, to eat with boiled rice; and remembering 
 Leyland's wish that I would make a little more toffy, I 
 tried my hand again at that, and finally finished up by 
 making some lemon skins into marmalade, when the 
 fire took a bad turn and would scarcely burn. It was 
 nearly twelve o'clock before all was cleared away, and 
 then we boiled some eggs and made our luncheon off 
 these, with bread and butter and a glass of wine. After 
 this I rested a little on the sofa trying to read the 
 Mercury, and then joined my husband in the garden 
 to help him with his weeding till time to look after 
 bacon and eggs for dinner, for the man who has been 
 sent into Durban for meat, returned saying there was 
 none to be had, as in hot weather they kill short, and 
 only early applicants can get any. Owing to our being
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 115 
 
 short of servants we had had to do without butchers' 
 meat for ten days, living off the good bacon and hams 
 and cheeses sent us from home, with rice and eggs, of 
 which we have always a large supply. Leyland thinks 
 we shall be ashamed to look in the face of a pig now, 
 after feasting so long on bacon ; but I tell him I shall 
 consider the breed as intimate acquaintances to be 
 treated with respect. 
 
 I 2
 
 1 16 My African Home ; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 November, 1853. — We heard to-day that the Treasury 
 at Maritzberg has been robbed of 800/., some of it 
 belonging to the Governor and another gentleman. 
 There has been nothing of the kind known before in 
 Natal. We feel so secure that, if it were left to my 
 husband, we should often sleep with the front door un- 
 locked. As it is, we frequently do so with our bedroom 
 door, which opens on the other side of the house, in 
 order that Leyland may fire in a moment should he 
 hear a tiger-cat prowling about. The other night one 
 was grunting about after dark so close that, after 
 watching in vain, he left the door a little ajar, with the 
 gun close beside the opening and the revolver on the 
 dressing-table. 
 
 November J th. — Leyland has been absent all dav, giving 
 me so much more leisure, that I have actually been 
 sauntering about the grounds with pussy and three 
 chickens at my heels. We are going to make some 
 flower-beds, and though this country's flowers are so 
 beautiful, there is a charm when so far away in watch- 
 ing the growth of plants with old accustomed visage 
 from home ; therefore, these beds are as much as pos- 
 sible to contain English flowers. We saw the English 
 cabbage-rose in a garden lately. We have some slips 
 of a small cluster-rose ; our neighbour, Mrs. Bowen, has a 
 fence covered with it. We have the passiflora in great 
 luxuriance, its fruit mixed with a little wine and sugar 
 affording us many a delicious mouthful. The Mauritius 
 pea makes a very useful hedge, it bears so abundantly, and 
 though not to compare with the English pea, it is very 
 palatable in soup — boiling the peas by themselves first.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 117 
 
 and throwing away the water, which would otherwise 
 give a strong taste to the soup. 
 
 We hear that Gudgeon has gone to Mrs. Bowen's as 
 her servant. I much fear that he will frighten the old 
 lady, for she is not one to put up tamely with his whims, 
 and there is no knowing what he might do to her if he 
 got provoked. 
 
 Our own life for some time has been the same kind of 
 busy, unassisted work as I have detailed before. In 
 reading over a diary of events which I kept at this time, 
 and looking back upon my life, I wonder how I got 
 through it all. I should weary my readers were I to 
 write it out here as each event occurred, but perhaps I 
 may narrate the work of one day: — 
 
 My husband had been very unwell for some days, but 
 at last he fairly gave in, and was in bed with a bad 
 bilious attack. I made and carried his breakfast, or 
 rather his cup of tea, for he took nothing else. Then, 
 after reading the chapter and prayer, I commenced 
 drawing a flower, when the little boy from the farm 
 brought the milk. This was soon seethed, scalded, and 
 put away, and then he blew up the fire for me. He had 
 orders not to tarry, so I was left to my own resources. 
 Fearing the bread would fall short, I mixed and baked 
 some soda cakes, and had scarcely finished these when 
 the clothes came from the wash, and had all to be 
 counted and hung in the sun to air before being put 
 away. I buttered one of my cakes and gave it to the boy, 
 for, poor child! he brought a note from his mother, 
 saying she has just got another baby, and will not be 
 able to wash again for three weeks ! I daresay the 
 children have hard work ot it as well as the mother. 
 By this time my husband was out of bed, looking very 
 thin and yellow, but he felt it not fair to leave me to do 
 all alone, so he came to look after the poultry and 
 rabbits, &c, and while there, a man on horseback rode 
 up wishing to buy one of our wagons, which he agreed 
 to take. Presently another gentleman rode up to order 
 sugar canes to be sent to him next day for planting. 
 The meal.es were in the wagon ready to go, but they
 
 1 1 8 My African Home; or, 
 
 had all to be displaced, and the canes visited and dug 
 up, sent off, and then I left the farm and went home to 
 rest, unpicking- an old dress to make it into little frocks 
 for Mrs. Galliers' children. It was now one o'clock, the 
 sun was very hot, and I had been racing about since 
 seven, so I was glad to sit still, and the afternoon meals 
 had still to be attended to. 
 
 The Caffre never came near the house till the work 
 was all done, so I sent him straight off with the horses 
 to the well to drink, for they must be attended to, and 
 after dark that cannot be done. By ten o'clock that 
 night I was quite ready for bed. My dear sister in Eng- 
 land had said she did not think she could give her con- 
 sent to my going to Africa if I should have to clean my 
 own house. I thought there was little risk of that while 
 we had means to pay servants, but I did not count on 
 finding these so scarce. 
 
 Old Gudgeon did not stay long with Mrs. Bowen : 
 only a few days. He sent to know if "the master" 
 would see him, which being refused, he stalked off 
 towards Durban, without once deigning to look back at 
 the house. 
 
 November gth. — Since I last wrote in my journal we 
 have led the same kind of busy life. Gudgeon reappeared 
 one morning, and was permitted to remain as he had 
 been steady for a week, and has saved us some domestic 
 work out of doors ; but we have only two Caffres to 
 attend to cattle, farm, garden, and house, for the farm 
 white-servant is useless, and the weeds are growing 
 fearfully. After our fire is lighted in the morning, and 
 the kettle boiling, I send the kitchen Caffre to weed, 
 and do what I can through the day without him, the 
 garden being of consequence. The Caffre returns in 
 time to watch the pans on the fire for dinner and clean 
 them afterwards. 
 
 Yesterday we spent several hours trying to fish in our 
 lake below the wood, but we got nothing. Leyland 
 carried his gun and axe, while I had the prog basket 
 and my skeich-book. We ate our bread and cheese and 
 fruit beside the lake, amongst the long reeds, close to a
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 119 
 
 large tree, the branches of which were hung with birds' 
 nests. 
 
 To-day I have been left quite alone. All the males 
 are off on some errand, and only Mrs. Galliers' figure 
 visible upon the hillside, as she goes in and out of her 
 house busy with hex work. Pussy is asleep on a side 
 table, the poor lame turkey-cock is sunning himself in 
 front of the house, the cocks and hens and chickens are 
 rambling about in search of food. I think I am learning 
 to be a very good poor man's wife. I have swept the 
 rooms, made the bed, prepared breakfast, washed up, 
 and put the clothes to air upstairs by the window, and 
 there is a week's work up there, so soon as I have 
 courage to begin. 
 
 During this month (November, 1853) we made a visit 
 to Maritzberg, the capital of Natal, and the place of 
 residence of the Governor and those employed under 
 him. We stayed at the house of our friends, the Collins's, 
 and of course made the journey on horseback (fifty 
 miles), sending cur boxes by wagon. The house is on 
 the outskirts of the town, with a beautiful garden, where 
 whole hedges of fine roses, pomegranates, fig-trees, and 
 willows grow luxuriantly. Peach-trees grow well, and 
 were in abundance with the fruit, not yet ripe ; gera- 
 niums and verbena were flowering twelve feet high. 
 The place had been sadly neglected, and run to waste 
 and ruin, when our friends took possession. We enjoyed 
 our visit very much, though servants were about as 
 scarce as with us. 
 
 There is a very devoted lady working amongst the 
 Caffres, a Miss Barter, deeply imbued with the desire 
 to work in the cause of her Saviour. She dresses in the 
 style of a sisterhood, in a close bonnet, with small white 
 line.n collar and cuffs on her black silk dress of a pecu- 
 liar shape. She has been studying the Caffre language 
 for six months, and, having a talent for languages, I am 
 told that she has quite mastered its difficulties. So 
 energetic is she that, even in this warm climate, she will 
 walk four miles to spend the day in a Caffre craal, and 
 I am told she sleeps on a Caffre mat on the bare ground.
 
 120 My African Home; or, 
 
 The Caffres hear her gladly, but her brother told me she 
 is not at all sure of doing them any good, though such 
 is her sole object. 
 
 She proposes buying some children from their 
 parents, and restoring them at sixteen years old, edu- 
 cated in the principles of Christianity, to instruct and 
 influence their own people. The Bishop sanctions her 
 pian, I believe, as does also Mr. Shepstone, than whom 
 the Caffres have not a better friend. 
 
 Maritzberg is a poor place for a chief town, but it will 
 grow. The climate is cooler than about the bay ; in- 
 deed, there seems to be a regular ascent from. the coast 
 inland to the Drakenberg Mountains. Maritzberg is 
 often visited in winter by frost and snow, and the tem- 
 perature is generally lower than about Durban. 
 
 December 27th, 1853. — I am sitting on the door-steps 
 under our deep roof, sheltered from the intense heat of 
 the sun this scorchingly hot day, the thermometer 78 
 in our cool, shady, and airy room. I walked over the 
 ploughed field at two o'clock, seeking for my husband, 
 and the ground burnt my feet through my shoes. I 
 found no Leyland and no Caffres. The heat had sent 
 them down to Black Garden to clean the sugar-canes, so 
 I returned home with a handful of tomatoes, which I 
 popped into the soup-pan, and presently my husband's 
 whistle sounded from quite an opposite direction to that 
 I had been directed to take. A Caffre followed him, 
 bearing the caraway plant, whose seed is now ripe. 
 The Caffres even had found the sun too hot on the hill, 
 so after a visit to Black Garden and Lower Garden, in 
 the valley, thence through the wood to the lake, where 
 they enjoyed a bathe, calling my husband a " Mochele 
 bos" (i.e. "Good master"), they returned home for 
 "scoff" (i.e. food), and showed their sense of his 
 kindness by returning to their work without requiring to 
 be hunted out of the kitchen as usual. 
 
 The Caffres like my husband for their master ; he 
 makes a joke with them now and then, when they 
 laugh and enjoy the fun, and so long as he is with them 
 and firm in what he requires to be done, they work well.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 121 
 
 Under the farm-servant's superintendence they often sit 
 on the ground snuffing, and he does not interfere much ; 
 thus they feel no respect for him. They obey me better, 
 and when my husband is away I occasionally go and 
 stand beside them, which they do not dislike. I often 
 stand a quarter of an hour at the stable, while " Bonnet " 
 cleans a"ncl attends the horse. 
 
 We have just taught stupid Bonnet to be a little 
 useful and handy, and to comprehend a few English 
 words and signs. It will be provoking if he sets off to 
 his craal next, but I quite expect he will, and we shall 
 have to begin again with another ignoramus. I have 
 come to the conclusion that English servants are " no 
 good " here.- The only decent ones are married, and 
 have their own families to attend to. One can never 
 depend on having the work done by them. Mrs. Chick 
 has undertaken to make us comfortable after the New 
 Ye«r, while her husband superintends the farm. 
 
 While we had plenty of rain to water the earth the 
 Caffres had all gone off to their craals to eat the newly- 
 ripe mealies, so the planting was kept back ; now there 
 are plenty of Caffres, but no rain ! The farm is looking 
 quite beautiful again, the crop of chalots magnificent, 
 the arrowroot and sugar-canes as well as they can look, 
 and alas ! no market for them. The extreme poverty of 
 the place is its drawback. One colonist after another is 
 finding his way to other shores, chiefly to Australia ; 
 nuiie coming in just now, and unless the tide changes, 
 Natal, and all in it, will fare but ill. 
 
 I do think the climate — lovely and charming as it is 
 — very wearing and enervating, with all the work that 
 has to be done ; but I enjoy it. 
 
 We had no plum pudding on Christmas Day. We ate 
 our roast beef and calabash and our papaw tart with 
 relish, and drank all your healths. We rode into church 
 in the morning, and partook of the sacrament. Most 
 people made a holiday. We were invited to a picnic, 
 but rode home quietly, and Leyland with the Ca ffie 
 planted arrowroot all the afternoon. Old Gudgeon ha 
 gone off for his Christmas holiday. He solemnly
 
 122 My African Home; or, 
 
 assured us that he would not get drunk, but return after 
 a round of calls. It is no use stopping a man like 
 Gudgeon, so off he went with a shilling in his pocket to 
 " get the sodden off his mind, and have a little chat 
 about Judy " and things in general. Alas for him, he 
 did appear this morning ; but it was only to turn the 
 horses out to grass, and let the fowls out, and be off 
 again. I daresay he will get put in " the Trunk" again, 
 where I hope Leyland will let him remain. 
 
 I have just been out to bid Bonnet water the 
 horses, and attend to them. Little Galliers, our neigh- 
 bour's child, has come for the piece of cake I promised 
 him. He is three years old, takes care of himself all day, 
 and sometimes hulps to look after the baby. He learns 
 to be very acute and intelligent in consequence of his 
 independence ; his mother sends him to our kitchen to 
 fetch a lighted piece of wood wherewith to light her fire ! 
 The other evening he was gathering feathers, when I 
 told him it would soon be his bedtime, and he had better 
 go home. He set out at once ; but, something taking me 
 out to the kitchen, I saw the child take up a burnt stick, 
 blow it, and lay it down,— then he tried another without 
 success. The fire was nearly out. I found one for him, 
 but it was very short ; however, he carried it home quite 
 safely. He got a severe lesson on Saturday in meum and 
 tuum. He ran off with an assegai from our door, which 
 belonged to a strange Caffre. i\o one saw him ; but the 
 Caffre with great acutenos said to rap in very broken 
 English, " Baby take." I could not understand, so he 
 repeated in a question, " You baby take, piccanini ? " I 
 remembered the child had been about, and sure enough 
 he had taken it. His mother told me to-day that she 
 flogged him soundly, and sent him supperless to bed, 
 forbidding him to come near our place all next day. 
 Such is the practical training a colonial child gets. 
 
 I have been drawing a few flowers lately as patterns 
 for work I intend beginning when materials arrive. 
 They are roughly enough coloured, but the character of 
 each flower is faithfully preserved. I do not much fancy 
 sketching here, the light is too strong, and variety of 
 colour not sufficiently tempting after former days in
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 123 
 
 the Vorarlberg. I wish I could have sketched the 
 Caffres' first view of themselves in a looking-glass the 
 other day ; they are such children of nature. They 
 laughed, put their fists to their mouths, shrugged 
 shoulders; and played all manner of antics to see if the 
 one in the glass did the same. They ran away half 
 ashamed, and back again for another look. It is a sad 
 pity we cannot talk to them and open their minds to the 
 chief end of life, for they are simple and honest until 
 corrupted, and, having no worship to be displaced, seem 
 just ready to receive the knowledge of the God of Truth. 
 But they are peculiar, and very reasoning people, earthly, 
 worldly, grovelling reasoning. Those who have devoted 
 themselves to them find the work of conversion a much 
 harder task than they had supposed. I wonder what 
 Miss Barter will accomplish ? She has enthusiasm 
 enough, and her brother says she has even acquired the 
 curious " clicks " in the Zulu tongue. There is a nice 
 little well-filled chapel for coloured people in Maritzberg, 
 and another in Durban ; but the amount of real good done 
 is very doubtful, and must be very disheartening to 
 those whose hearts are in their work. 
 
 December $isi, 1853. — I am astonished in lookingback, 
 and desire to be grateful. How smoothly my life has 
 run all these many years ; how I have been cared for and 
 amply provided for ; my cup running over with mercies, 
 and I never found it out. God's eye and hand are still 
 over us, and will support us through our many earthly 
 cares and troubles. What is it we are all doing ? Is it 
 not a desired haven we are hoping to gain ? If only an 
 earthly haven we are striving lor. still that animates our 
 thoughts and wishes to a kh.d of longing ; but if it be 
 indeed to our heavenly haven we are really looking for- 
 ward, how insignificant do all earthly pleasures, treasures, 
 miseries even, become ! To be provided for from day 
 to day should content us, though I cannot help at times 
 wishing for a little certainty for to-morrow, which is want 
 of trust. The small certainty I should just now like to 
 possess is this : that some day we may have enough 
 means to return home to settle in England among all 
 our dear friends again.
 
 124 M Y African Home; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 New Year's Eve, 1854. — We are working under a 
 broiling sun, with thermometer from 70 to 8o° in the 
 shade ; though after a cold, wet rain we slept under a 
 blanket last mght ! Leyland was out soon after five this 
 morning planting arrowroot, cleaning sugar-cane, &c. 
 When I rose shortly after, I missed my favourite kitten 
 that sleeps under the house. As it was a good little 
 kitten, stole nothing, nor jumped on the table, I was 
 sorry, fearing it had got lost, as I let it follow me to the 
 farm yesterday, and the love of travel is strong. When 
 Leyland returned for breakfast Caffre Tom told him he 
 had seen a tiger take it about six o'clock or later. 
 Leyland tracked the tiger's foot-prints a few yards into 
 the bush round the house, and there sure enough was 
 little pussy lying without its head, which was " clean 
 gone," all fresh and bleeding. He has poisoned the 
 remains, and we hope the tiger will return for his other 
 mouthful. As I had seen Tom pass, I must have just 
 missed seeing the tiger, which was in front of the house, 
 hid by the hill, where I was looking for pussy. 
 
 We have just brought in two fine pineapples for our 
 dessert. 
 
 I have written of our visit to our friends at Maritzberg, 
 but not about the great dinner-party we were at, at the 
 house of the Crown prosecutor. He is a widower, and 
 lives in a cottage, yet he contrived to dine about twenty 
 people, all the elite of Maritzberg, including Sir Theo- 
 philus St. George. Such a great, heavy dinner as it was, 
 with such loads of open tarts ! But now I must go and 
 see my loaf put in the bakepan ; my seed-cake must 
 follow ; and then dinner : that is tolerably forward.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 125 
 
 It is only to consist of eggs and bacon, pumpkin and 
 greens, for meat spoils so soon at this season, that we had 
 enough of it in the beginning of the week, and feasted 
 Bonnet on it latterly. Mrs. Collins says eggs and bacon 
 are a dinner for a prince, so they may do for us. We 
 shall have a roast to-morrow ; I quite dread its being fly- 
 blown, as we could not send into town early. 
 
 January 2nd, 1854. — I read such a beautiful sermon 
 yesterday, that I have felt quite cheerful ever since. I 
 was not very dull before. The text was from Deute- 
 ronomy : " As thy days so shall thy strength be, ' 
 showing that the strength must not be looked for before 
 it is required ; in other words, the folly of anticipating 
 evil, which (should it come) will bring also the power to 
 bear to those who trust in the Lord. 
 
 What would you think of having to cook your own 
 New Year's Day dinner, with only a Caffre to watch the 
 fire and clean the pans ? I did it yesterday, and have 
 done it for a week, and frequently before. J remember 
 reading, while on our voyage out, an emigrant's descrip- 
 tion of her servant sitting sewing in her hut, while the 
 mistress did the work. I could not understand it then, 
 but I do now, A married woman living in a hut near 
 at hand can easily make excuses for staying away from 
 work. Whenever a wet day comes she leaves you to 
 fight it out as you can by yourself. But I must tell of 
 our New Year's Day dinner. No plum pudding ; but a 
 nice roast of beef, yam, greens, and tomatoes, arti- 
 chokes and melted butter, cheese, and dessert. While 
 I was looking after these good things, Leyland begged I 
 would always enter by the other door. Of course I was 
 prepared for a surprise, and so I found it. He had laid 
 out a beautifully dressed dessert: a pineapple, sweeter 
 than any in England, was surrounded by a wreath of 
 flowers, chiefly scarlet ; a plate of very fine granadillas 
 similarly dressed to match, and — a bottle of champagne 
 on another plate, a white napkin neatly pinned round 
 it, with a wreath of the handsome scarlet and yellow 
 Indian-shot flower. It looked quite gorgeous and gala, 
 and after admiring some time, I wished that some one —
 
 126 My African Home ; or, 
 
 no matter who — would come in and see. Leyland 
 bethought him of our honest neighbour and tenant, Mrs. 
 Galliers. We sent Bonnet to fetch her, and while she 
 was changing her gown Mr. James, from Durban, came 
 in to ask us to join a picnic to-day, and see a Caffre 
 dance and eat some oxen. I was sorry not to see the 
 savage sight ; but our new farm servanticomes to-day, 
 and so we had to stay to do our business at home. 
 
 I walked over to comfort old Mrs. Bowen instead. 
 She is full of troubles, without a living soul to help her 
 with anything. Dear old excellent Christian lady ! She 
 is somewhat hard to live with, if all tales be true. She 
 has too much spirit of resistance and too little patience. 
 
 To return to our dinner, Mrs. Galliers came in looking 
 very neat and nice in her close straw bonnet, not pre- 
 tending to be anything but what she is. Presently her 
 husband passed the window with the two children (we 
 had thought he had gone to town), so we called him in, 
 and they all drank the new year. The little boy got a 
 lump of seed cake. Baby sat very good and pleased on 
 her father's knee, while Mrs. Galliers, of her own accord, 
 washed up all the glasses and china plates, making 
 things tidy. Then they said, " Thank you," and went 
 off home, Mrs. Galliers having tasted champagne for the 
 first time in her life, and I think we made them happy. 
 
 That troublesome old rogue Gudgeon has not made his 
 appearance since Christmas Monday, and I hope he will 
 not now, for his going off in this way does more harm 
 than his hard work does good. I have been helping to 
 look after rabbits, horses, and fowls, for Leyland has been 
 too busy to do all Gudgeon's work. The man has left 
 his cottage in such a filthy state, that, in order not to 
 disgust my own house Caffre, I am going to take one 
 who is to leave in two days to clean it out. We do not 
 know what has become of Gudgeon. He has not been 
 seen in Durban, and is not in " the Trunk." We 
 suspect he has wandered up the country to Captain 
 Stephenson's again, for a little change and a promise of 
 grog. 
 
 January ^rd, 1854. — It is evening; and were Ley-
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 127 
 
 land less interested in a plan he is making of his sugar 
 and arrowroot plantations, to send to his mother, it 
 would be bedtime, as my winking eyes attest. A 
 thunder-storm is going on, with deep rolling thunder 
 and vivid lightning flashes. But we hail the rain at 
 nights gratefully. It will water the newly planted crops 
 and fruit-trees beautifully, when we feared the dry 
 season was setting in, and the want of Caffres had 
 thrown the work late. 
 
 I was at such a comfortable family party in my 
 dreams last night— New Year's dinner at home, with 
 all the members of our family and the married ones 
 assembled. I knew each one, yet none was like the 
 real one ; J. had fair ringlets, a long face and hand- 
 some profile, while her husband had black hair and 
 whiskers. J. remarked on my happy expression of 
 countenance, as if it came from within, and I told her 
 it was a happiness which all might gain. It is singular 
 how content and happy I have felt since reading that 
 sermon on New Year's Day. I trust I may never forget 
 it, and that grace may be given me to feel perfect faith 
 in the promise, " As thy days so shall thy strength be." 
 
 I must tell you what has been my work to-day. 
 When it was near time for my husband to return from 
 the farm for breakfast, I gathered some parsley, chopped 
 it up, beat up some eggs, and made ready for one of 
 " Fleda's " omelettes. Then I fried some bacon and cold 
 potatoes, made tea, and finished the omelette, which we 
 ate with relish all hot and comfortable. This over, I 
 mixed the loaf and seed cake, set them to rise, and 
 came in to wash the china and glass. Then I took Caffre 
 Tom up to Gudgeon's cottage by the stable, having 
 undertaken to see it cleaned out, and a horrible mess 
 we found. Tom did all the hard work ; but I never 
 can be idle where a pair of hands are wanted, and it took 
 us till two o'clock to get it done. Meantime I be- 
 thought me the rabbits had been forgotten, and went 
 and fed them. You must imagine a good step, under a 
 hot sun, between each place visited. I returned to the 
 house for bread and cheese, and granadillas, so nicely
 
 128 My African Home; or, 
 
 arranged by Leyland, who had also returned while the 
 Caffres went to " scoff." Bonnet had been making his 
 knives and pans shine, and had swept the house. I 
 made the bed, then prepared our dinner, Bonnet 
 scraping the potatoes. I tried my hand for the first 
 time on a small suet dumpling, which, though perhaps 
 not quite orthodox, turned out so good, and my bread 
 which Bonnet baked, so light, that I felt quite elated, 
 and got abundant praise from my husband. Of course 
 I laid the table-cloth ; but, as George used to say, "that 
 is done in five minutes."
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 129 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 I HAVE been reading with interest some manuscript 
 poems of Mrs. Bowen's, which she kindly lent me 
 yesterday. There are some beautiful lines written upon 
 the Rev. Mr. Close, of Cheltenham, on the occasion of 
 his entering his new house close to Christchurch. She 
 told me they were printed and sold for threepence a 
 copy for some charity, but she did not write them for 
 that occasion. The ideas are beautiful, and the verses 
 read well. 
 
 The 27th of November last was her seventy-sixth anni- 
 versary, when she wrote some lines she showed me, being, 
 as she said, " in such a peaceful, happy frame of spirit," 
 a case, I fear, not too frequent with her active, resisting 
 spirit. The subject of the lines is " Grey Hairs," and as 
 I have a copy of them in her own handwriting, I will re- 
 peat them here, even though they may have appeared, as 
 hers occasionally did, in the Natal Mercury. She must 
 be a strange mixture. All her pieces of poetry are of a 
 strictly Christian and religious tendency ; even her droll 
 pieces have serious reflections, displaying strong faith 
 and hope, yet can she not command her temper or her 
 tongue on the most trifling provocation, while her letters 
 and conversation are a strange mixture of wit, satire, 
 sarcasm, humility, love, and hate. I have never met with 
 so interesting and singular a- character, and with it all, so 
 delicate, refined, and generous a mind. She welcomes 
 you into her little hut with the grace and dignity of a 
 duchess ; spreads the table-cloth, brings out wine and 
 cake or bread, as it may be, with a little fresh butter, 
 and gently asks you to partake. Her gardener lives in
 
 130 My African Home; or, 
 
 a cottage outside. She engages him by the week, gives 
 high wages, and he is a sort of general servant, but as she 
 will not yield the twentieth part of an inch from her 
 own way, she grows angry and dismisses other servants 
 before they have had a chance of learning her way ; they 
 revenging themselves by provoking her in all possible 
 ways, and exciting that temper which they all dread. 
 Yet is she daily looking to her end with loving trust 
 and faith in her Saviour, and often oppressed with 
 sorrow and humility at her own weakness. She is 
 learning severe lessons here in the wilderness, alone in 
 the world, helping herself when often she has no creature 
 to help her, dining off bread and butter and an egg 
 boiled in her " Etna," sweeping out her own floor, and 
 making her own bed ! She feels that she has not a 
 friend in the world ; yet she writes to one or two in 
 Europe as dear to her still, and she clings to our friend- 
 ship, sending almost daily notes, telling of all her dis- 
 tresses and accidents and discomforts, often in the most 
 ludicrous manner, as if she gained amusement from the 
 narration, which I do believe she does. This is, indeed, 
 a strange fate for a gentlewoman at seventy-six years 
 of age ! 
 
 GREY HAIRS. 
 
 By Mrs. Bowen, 
 
 On her seventy-sixth birthday, 1853. 
 
 " Grey hairs may come, and lightly clustering lie, 
 But manhood's beauty is not marr'd thereby ; 
 The energies of mind are still the same, 
 The skilful search of science still pursued, 
 Owning the great Creator, wise and good: 
 With steady purpose, that each work shall be 
 For present good, and immortality! 
 
 "They may tell tales, indeed, of joys or woes, 
 Perils by land and sea, or savage foes, 
 In climes where pestilence delights to dwell, 
 And every hour sighs some sad farewell ; 
 Hints they may give of what such trials bring, 
 Or from a nearer, dearer source may spring 
 The heart's deep tenderness midst severed ties ! — 
 But hush ! touch not the chord of sympathies,
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 131 
 
 Tokens they may of bygone sufferings give, 
 The lot of all who live, or ever are to live ! 
 
 " But no true Christian ventures to repine, 
 He knows these cannot pass the bound'ry line ; 
 Though mortal eyes, all powerless here must be, 
 Faith, precious faith ! will teach him how to see ! 
 True faith, unwarped by man, so prone to fall, 
 Taught by our Saviour, God, as creed for all — ■ 
 What glorious vistas opening through the skies, 
 Visions of bliss each coming thought supplies : 
 No sorrows, sufferings, partings, there are known, 
 Beauty and love alone surround the Throne, 
 The song of Glory ever sounding thus, 
 ' Worthy the Lamb, for He was slain for us ! ' 
 
 " My song' is ended, all too long I fear 
 To find much favour from the weary ear ; 
 Yet, still one word; oh ! may we fitted be, 
 And all we love, for such eternity ! '' 
 
 These lines were suggested after the visit of Dr. 
 Stanger, a clever man — the age of Mrs. Bovven's dead 
 son — who complained of grey hairs beginning to show 
 themselves. In March, 1854, Mrs. Bowen wrote to me 
 thus : " The sudden death of Dr. Stanger was a great 
 shock to me ; he was one of our earliest and most 
 esteemed friends in this colony, and when I last saw 
 him he promised to pay me another little visit very 
 soon. I had even hung up some grapes for him, know- 
 ing he was fond of fruit. The grapes decayed, and he 
 came not. Alas ! for me, I have lost a friend ; but he 
 was a Christian gentleman." 
 
 On the 7th of January this spirited old lady, in a note 
 after a storm, writes : — 
 
 "I hope you fared better on Wednesday night than 
 I did, for I was almost afloat in my lonely dwelling ; 
 obliged again to take down my beautiful church [a 
 framed engraving], and to mop up the troublesome 
 waters. I am thankful to say I am not greatly the 
 worse for it, though plenty of rheumatic pains are 
 keeping possession of my poor old limbs. 
 
 " My servant thought proper to make his appearance 
 yesterday morning early, saying he only came to market 
 
 K 2
 
 132 My African Home; or, 
 
 for me (though he had previously written to inquire if 
 I wished him to return). I replied, ' No objection, pro- 
 vided he could sleep here at nights, and allow that the 
 week consisted of seven days.' 
 
 " He came in a fuss and wanted to make his own 
 terms, but I soon settled this by telling him if he agreed 
 to my terms he might come for one week on trial ; if 
 not, that I would pay him for going to Durban to 
 market for me, and there end. This brought him to 
 reason ; he is very far from what I like, but times are 
 bad ! The moon changed yesterday at full ; I fear a 
 continuance of showery weather, but hope not, as I shall 
 be truly glad to see you here." 
 
 Here is another of her letters, written on the 6th of 
 February, 1854: — 
 
 " Your surprise could scarcely exceed my own at 
 finding myself really seated on a bench in the church 
 yesterday, listening with most gratified attention to the 
 addresses of our bishop ! It was a treat, and a comfort 
 I have long yearned for. There was such an overplus 
 of people that I only obtained a sitting from the civility 
 of a gentleman, who gave up his to me and sat on a 
 bench outside. There were three infants baptized in the 
 middle of the service, and plenty of singing — the sermon 
 short, and most appropriate and affecting. I trust he is 
 sent by the Lord of Missions, for it is evident ' the love 
 of souls constraineth him.' Comparatively few remained 
 to partake of the heavenly feast, but to me it was balm 
 of Gilead — the rose of Sharon. I went fluttered and 
 excited, for a bullock-wagon is not a composing or 
 remarkably pleasant conveyance, but I was thankful for 
 it, and to the friends who enabled me thus to avail my- 
 self of passing events. I should have prayed for our 
 good bishop if I had been confined at home. I shall do 
 so now with deeper feelings and greater fervour. I pray 
 you to pardon me. I am still partially under the ex- 
 citement of yesterday, and out of the heart the mouth 
 will speak." 
 
 On the 9th she concludes her note thus : —
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 133 
 
 " I expected Mrs. Galliers here on Monday. I have 
 not yet seen her. She was here on Friday, and then 
 told me you were busy preparing for company. I did 
 not think it right to trouble you, either with a note or 
 to return the book you kindly sent. It was rather a 
 disappointment, as you named a Life of Christ for my 
 reading — and, alas ! the court of Charles II. 'cared for 
 none of these things ' — a sadder picture of depravity, 
 showing the need of a Saviour, can nowhere be found 
 than in the circle of the Merry Monarch ! ' the crackling 
 of thorns,' &c. But I did not read it now ! fifty years ago, 
 I admired the pretty pictures, in the ' Memoirs ' by St. 
 Evremond — copies of the celebrated gallery of Charles's 
 beauties. I have seen these at Coombe Abbey, the seat 
 of Lord Craven, whom George IV. made an earl. I 
 knew him and his two brothers — Berkeley Craven and 
 Keppel Craven. What a retrospective glance is there ! 
 Well, if Mrs. Galliers will not come here, I must try to 
 send to you, for I am anxious to hear about you. If 
 you could witness my enjoyment in taking slices of your 
 delicious cheese, I think you would be pleased — there is 
 cut and come again for a long time to me, for my capa- 
 city for devouring is moderate, thank heaven ! 
 
 -< I have only one help, and a dirty, untidy being he 
 is, though willing enough. Oh, that I were in my 
 native land, where at least I might have a choice ! 
 Please to offer my kind regards to Mr. F., always 
 reserving the first place for yourself; for, believe me, 
 my dear Mrs. F., I am yours affectionately, 
 
 " M. B." 
 
 I think I must enter my reply to this letter. After 
 thanking my kind old friend for a beautiful bunch of 
 grapes she had sent me, as well as congratulating her 
 upon having been in church, though her carriage was a 
 wagon, I go on to say : — 
 
 " You will wonder what makes me always so busy, 
 I don't know how it is, but each day brings its work, and 
 I cannot be idle when anything is required to be done. 
 I fancy that I know better perhaps, where and how to
 
 134 My African Home ; or, 
 
 order, and even to act, than such servants as we can 
 command. Mrs. Chick is a very respectable, quiet ser- 
 vant, according to her bond ; but I cannot heJp thinking 
 of Shylock and the pound of flesh. She will do what 
 she is bound to do, but there is no heart in her work, 
 and she is no help in anything but hands. However, I 
 might be worse off, so I must be thankful, and make the 
 best of it. Mr. Feilden has a touch of lumbago ; he 
 could scarcely stir yesterday. We had two ladies and 
 their husbands to an early dinner one day last week, 
 and a large party of gentlemen another day, and com- 
 pany does make one busy. I never pretend to give fine 
 or costly fare, but many people make much work. It 
 is not, however, so much the work, as the extreme heat, 
 that keeps me at home. A hot ride to Durban one day 
 warned me to avoid such. I went to bid adieu to Mrs. 
 J. B. M., who has again left her husband, to fight the 
 battle out alone. She says she cannot get proper assis- 
 tance here, in-the way of servants ; that three children — 
 — one of them a baby — as well as her husband and the 
 house, are too much for her strength ; and as the chil- 
 dren must be thought of, her husband can manage for 
 himself till she has provided some satisfactory way at 
 home for them. Thus she leaves a door open for her 
 return, but I think she has deserted her cause too soon, 
 and may chance to lose her husband altogether. 1 Three 
 other ladies have done likewise, sailing in the Lady of 
 the Lake. Troubles and trials there must be in the 
 world. I fear these ladies may find out they have not 
 
 1 The finale to Mrs. M.'s voyage home was rather amusing. The 
 vessel was detained some weeks at Algoa Bay, which has an open 
 anchorage not pleasant to live in, so she and another lady went 
 ashore and took lodgings, whence she wrote to her husband that 
 things were very dear, and she had spent all her money, and wanted 
 more. He sent her 50/. by return vessel, and she put her foot into 
 the first steamer back to Port Natal, and returned to her home and 
 her husband, with 5/. in her pocket. Her whim has cost 100/., but 
 her husband quietly says, " It will do her a deal of good." Every- 
 thing now is " so good " at home, whereas formerly nothing was 
 right or good.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 135 
 
 left all behind them. ' As our day so shall our strength 
 be,' if we look to the right quarter, and our duty lies 
 where God has placed us. I am glad you enjoy the 
 cheese ; so do we : and we can give you another piece 
 when that is done, for we have another cheese in a tin 
 case still unopened, thanks to the kindness of our friends 
 in England. 
 
 " I remain, yours affectionately, 
 
 " E. W. F."
 
 136 My African Home; or 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 February 6th, 1854. — The Lady of the Lake arrived in 
 the middle of January, having outstripped our mail; by 
 making a remarkably quick passage of sixty-five days. 
 Another vessel came in the day after her which had 
 been 1 30 days at sea from London. The mail steamer 
 has broken some of her machinery. 
 
 Our weather is at its hottest in Natal. Mrs. Miller 
 told me that the thermometer in her sitting-room in 
 summer is seldom under 90 . Our house is much better 
 off. I have never till yesterday known the thermometer 
 above 78 , but yesterday and to-day it has risen to 8o°. 
 We have always an airy draught through the house, and 
 are cool so long as we keep within it. The early morn- 
 ings are very lovely, with a pure and sweet, balrny 
 atmosphere. We go out frequently at half-past five, 
 about the time of sunrise ; the landscape then, as in the 
 cool of the day, looks very beautiful on every side — we 
 being placed among green-wooded hills far and near, 
 with most romantic and beautifully grouped trees in the 
 valley below. A prettier stroll than that through this 
 valley can scarcely be. It used to form part of our way 
 to Durban, but my husband has cut a path through the 
 bush, which brings us nearly two miles closer to town, 
 and saves two terribly steep hills. As we went through 
 this path to-day, the wild trees and their flowering 
 creepers occasionally met over our heads, scarlet and 
 yellow berries, the size of large capsicums, hung grace- 
 fully from the branches ; numbers of white butterflies 
 were fluttering over the tall weeds, and through the 
 sunshine. Both Leyland and I at the same moment
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 137 
 
 remarked that they were like flakes of snow falling at 
 the commencement of a great snow-storm. 
 
 In Natal are various magnificent butterflies of every 
 imaginable colour and size. Our new bishop, in riding 
 out to our farm (brought by our kind clergyman, Mr. 
 Lloyd, the. very day after his landing), said he felt all 
 his boyish propensity for butterfly-chasing arise anew, 
 and he longed to have a race after some which were 
 quite new to him. 
 
 I hope the bishop v/ill prove a blessing to Natal. 
 He looks a clever, active, and vigorous person, and 
 one who will not shrink from toil, which he will have 
 in abundance. t At present he views everthing couleur- 
 de-rose, and is only anxious to begin working. First 
 he is to ride through as much as he can of his large 
 district, note its wants, learn its language (he has been 
 studying hard already), then go to England, stir up 
 friends in the cause, and return again with, he hopes, 
 means sufficient to set afloat a good working staff, 
 among both whites and coloured people. He does not 
 know half the difficulty he has to encounter ; perhaps 
 that is as well. I hope he does not lean too much to 
 Puseyisrn. Of that I could not judge in one conversa- 
 tion ; but earnest and desirous to effect good, I feel sure 
 he is. Popery has been making such rapid strides in 
 our land, that one trembles at every new scheme of 
 teaching, lest it should be built on a false foundation. 
 May God direct aright ! Caffres will be more difficult 
 to Christianize than you would suppose of an intelligent 
 reasoning people, without a God at all. You would 
 think they were just in- a fit state to receive one. Many 
 of their superstitions seem to have had a Jewish origin, 
 and many of their faces have a Jewish cast. They are 
 decidedly money hoarders, and most penurious in their 
 own expenses. I am told that some of them use cir- 
 cumcision. The pig is an unclean animal with them. 
 Are they a branch of Abraham's seed — some of that 
 which cannot be numbered? or are they some of the 
 offshoots from Ishmael's tribes ? or can they be a part 
 (as some suppose) of the lost tribes ?
 
 138 My African Home; or, 
 
 February 21st. — A good heart and a strong, active 
 constitution are good things to commence with in the 
 missionary line, and our bishop seems to possess these. 
 I trust he may be of great use. He will find the Caffres 
 more difficult to manage than they seem at first sight to 
 be. They will listen readily, but as to changing their 
 lives, God only — not man — can effect that, though man 
 must use the means placed in his power. Caffres are 
 too shrewd and selfish for simple savages. They don't 
 feel themselves to be sinners, nor to possess a sinful 
 nature, and how are they to be taught their need of a 
 Saviour — and that, too, by foreigners speaking their lan- 
 guage in a broken manner ? They have no fear of death, 
 except as taking away the enjoyment of life, and I fear 
 they will reason about life after death — to use a homely 
 phrase — as a " bird in hand being worth two in the 
 bush." The Christianizing of the Caffres is a gigantic 
 undertaking, and with gigantic means, and the blessing 
 of God, it may come to pass. The bishop told me that 
 a young widow lady was about to devote her life and 
 fortune to them. How long will her enthusiasm last ? 
 How long will she endure the want of the comforts she 
 has been used to all her life ; the want of civilization ; 
 the mud floors she must often live on, and all the habits 
 of these dirty, ignorant, and brutish savages, which she 
 must daily encounter ? 
 
 I had a present of fish to-day, my husband carrying 
 them out from Durban himself. As Mrs. Chick had gone 
 to her own house till our dinner-time, and we wanted 
 the fish for our luncheon, I had to get them ready for 
 the frying-pan, while Bonnet, the Caffre, took the horse 
 to the stable in old Gudgeon's absence. Leyland took 
 out a summons against Gudgeon, but the man has hid 
 himself and is not to be found. He sold his new shoes 
 for drink, after all his money was gone. Bonnet is a 
 quiet, steady Caffre, but slow ; he does his work very 
 fairly, and can be quick if he likes. 
 
 We nearly had a strike among the farm Caffres last 
 week, which was somewhat ludicrous. The mealies, 
 their food, ran short. A cart was sent to a craal for
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 139 
 
 more, which being charged double the usual price were 
 sent back again, under the belief that the Caffre who 
 sold them was imposing on us. But it seems mealies 
 have become suddenly scarce, and Ley land brought 
 home a sample of manna, which the Caffres pronounced 
 very good. Upon a muid of manna following, however, 
 they refused to touch it, saying they must have mealies. 
 Things can't always be got on the spur of the moment, 
 and you can't reason with a Caffre, so the difficulty 
 assumed a droll aspect. Eight of them came in a body, 
 and squatted round the front door. Two acting as 
 spokesmen stood up, tapped first their mouths, and then 
 their stomachs, and nothing could be more expressive 
 of the Highlandman's " toom pelly " than the move- 
 ment, and the look which accompanied it. But they 
 would not eat, or try to eat, the manna, calling it seed 
 for grass. We had to give in. They put up with 
 mabili meal (i.e. Caffre corn), and we got them some 
 beef for a few days, till Leyland could meet with some 
 mealies. The scene was daily repeated, two or three 
 Caffres coming to the house to protest. 
 
 Leyland is working hard at the farm, and all looks 
 in good order, but whether he is doing good or not we 
 cannot tell, for there seems no market. People are too 
 poor to buy his sugar-canes for transplanting, and we 
 dread the white ants will get them all. I am told 
 that white ants do not appear in damp, level plains, 
 where only in large quantities can the sugar-cane be 
 grown well. 
 
 Our farm and garden are worth looking at just now, 
 and many come to see them. I must try to give a 
 description. Below two acres of sugar-cane runs the 
 cattle-road to pasture, with a hedge on each side ; 
 on the opposite side of the road is near an acre of 
 Mauritius sugar-cane about a year old, and below that 
 again in the valley is an acre of fine yellow cane. Sixty 
 or seventy orange and lemon-trees, nine feet high, and 
 about a hundred banana, coffee, guava, fig, tobacco, 
 cotton, and other plants. The farm road runs past the 
 farmhouse, and on the opposite side arrowroot is planted.
 
 140 My African Home ; or, 
 
 This piece the farmer is to have for his own garden. To 
 the left of it are about 200 pine-apples, 1 30 ready to be 
 cut for the steamer ; and to the right of it, in the old 
 cattle craal — well trenched — is planted a valuable supply 
 of yams. Adjoining them are East India melons, cala- 
 bash, and pumpkins. Below these again about 2000 
 pine plants are coming on. Then comes a belt of bush, 
 and Black Garden follows, containing one acre of sugar- 
 cane, valued, as it stands now, to cut for plants at 100/. 
 One acre of cotton trees not worth anything, but very 
 pretty ; and below the cotton again pumpkins are 
 planted, calabash, China grass, potatoes, and again a 
 little sugar. The man's cottage in Black Garden is just 
 blown down, and beneath the debris are seed potatoes 
 for an acre, to be planted out as soon as possible. A 
 fine large garden round about our own house contains 
 some of every kind, some grand beds of pine-apples, 
 bordered by banana and papaw trees, both very elegant 
 and Eastern-looking, with a fine mulberry-tree and beJs 
 of gay flowers under them. Within a fence of a thick, 
 tall, well-clipped Mauritius pea are orange and lemon- 
 trees at six yards apart, and a good wide road runs on 
 each side of the house, with rlower-beds in front, the 
 magnificent cardamom, or " La reine Lucie," in full 
 flower, spreading itself out in great and noble profusion. 
 I think anything will grow in this wonderful climate. 
 My picture would not be complete without adding that 
 the view from each window of our light, airy, cheerful 
 sitting-room is beautiful and refreshing — shadows chas- 
 ing each other over the wooded hills and green valleys, 
 or a magnificent sunset throwing a rich variety of misty 
 hues over the landscape, from a deep gold colour to 
 every shade of pink. The sunrise, the moon and stars 
 vary the scene, so that I never really tire of the place. 
 
 My new servant is not worth much, though she means 
 well. When my husband had to be absent one night, 
 it never struck her to offer to sleep in the house or to 
 ask if I should be frightened, though she knew there 
 would not be a creature nearer than in Mrs. Galliers' 
 cottage on the hill-side. I asked the Caffre Bonnet
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 141 
 
 if he would sleep in Gudgeon's cottage by the stable, 
 to be at hand to take the horse, if my husband should 
 chance to return ; but he declined, saying he must sleep 
 at the craal with the rest of the Caffres : they are all 
 afraid to sleep alone. My night was passed quite peace- 
 fully, and Leyland only made me anxious by not ap- 
 pearing till the night following. He had to cross the 
 river Umgeni, which rises so suddenly as to be often 
 dangerous. It is a very " magra" river. Knowing this, 
 I felt uneasy at his non-appearance, and not without 
 cause. He and another gentleman, arriving at the 
 river-side, thought they could quite well cross at the 
 drift as is often done ; but the river is treacherous, and 
 their horses got into a deep hole. The other gentleman 
 becoming frightened left his horse and swam to shore ; 
 he landing on one side, his horse on the other. Pre- 
 sently my husband found he must leave his horse, or it 
 would drown. Not being a swimmer, he placed himself 
 on his back and floated into some reeds, there scram- 
 bling out, his horse on the other side. There is a ferry- 
 boat which is used when the river is high, and on their 
 return they hailed it, but without being able to bring 
 the man across. Alter about two hours' delay, they 
 went back to the wayside house, put up their horses, 
 and thought they must stay all night ; but luckily a 
 party came across from the other side, and they re- 
 turned in the boat, the ferryman apologizing for his 
 neglect and rudeness when he knew who it was who 
 wished to go across. So my husband got home when 
 I had quite given him up for that night. 
 
 A day or two after this adventure a boy of eleven 
 years old, brother of my first servant-girl, was carried 
 off by the legs by a crocodile while he was bathing in 
 the Umgeni, his brother being nearly pulled after him 
 in trying to save him. Crocodiles are frequent, and on 
 my asking Leyland what he thought of while he was 
 floating, he replied, " I v/ondered if there were any 
 crocodiles about." 
 
 February 22nd. — My dear sister, — Your work is 
 now in a fair way to be commenced ; but I am almost
 
 142 My African Home, Etc. 
 
 frightened at the undertaking - . The pattern has been 
 an anxious and slow business, so much depends on it ; 
 and I have been unable to introduce that particular 
 flower you associate with one of my rides, though I tried 
 hard. The placing, arranging, and tracing the pattern 
 in thread on the satin ground has occupied a full week's 
 leisure hours. It looks well in black and white, but that 
 is too soon to speak of it. I would make it beautiful if 
 I could. I arranged the wools yesterday. You have 
 sent every colour I can possibly require, though the 
 African flowers are very brilliant. 
 
 I think I am becoming acclimatized, but the- very 
 rapid sudden changes of atmosphere make it difficult to 
 clothe safely. If I put on flannel, or its substitute, in 
 the morning, I am oppressed by nine or ten o'clock ; 
 and if I don't put any on I feel a chill. At other 
 moments I never miss it, just according to the passing 
 cloud. 
 
 I have two little pet kittens that amuse me greatly 
 by their antics ; they mount on my shoulders and run 
 round the gathers of my dress. I hope the tigers won't 
 find them, but they have no white cat now to allure 
 them from the house. It, poor thing, was killed. 
 
 We have been reading Mrs. Fry's Life, sent out by 
 my kind cousin, Elizabeth. What a wonderfully active 
 life ! A mother and grandmother ! to go about to 
 prisons as she did, is most extraordinary. How inherent 
 the love of God and her fellow-creatures must have been 
 in her ! How restless a spirit she possessed ! 
 
 February 2^th.—l saw a curious sight yesterday. My 
 husband, in digging, had turned up some white ants, 
 and immediately a number of large black ants came, 
 and carried them off to devour them. Two would occa- 
 sionally get hold of one, by head and tail, and never 
 leave it till fairly carried off. Sometimes one would be 
 seen tottering under its heavy burthen — a large white 
 ant in its feelers and mouth.
 
 LEY LANDS LAPFUL. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Mv DEAREST Mother,— March 6th, 1S54. 
 
 I have sent you a little vignette, you perceive — 
 Leyland's lapful. We have some pets evidently. 
 About ten days ago a hen hatched thirteen lively 
 chickens, which, hoping to secure, Lcyland placed with 
 their mother in a box close by the house. The second 
 morning, however, when Leyland went out at half-past 
 five, he came quickly back to beckon me to come out 
 immediately. I seized my dressing gown, and rushed 
 out, night-cap and gown on ; and there, alas ! lay the 
 box upset, the bars broken ; feathers and three chickens 
 stretched on the ground, and one poor little thing run- 
 ning to and fro crying piteously. In catching it, another 
 was heard and pursued, and as Leyland and the Caffre 
 bonnet caught them, they were given to me to hold ; 
 and thus nine, one after another, found a warm, snug 
 resting-place inside my dressing-gown. The next con-
 
 144 M Y African Home ; or, 
 
 sideration was, what must be done with them ? as no 
 hen was likely to take them ; so we brought them into 
 the house, put them in a basket, let them run about a 
 little, and had the floor washed after them — an easy 
 thing, where there are no carpets — and you see the results. 
 You would really enjoy watching the little creatures run 
 under' Leyland's or my hands when they are tired, and 
 lie there so content and snug. They are all well and 
 hearty, and I tell Leyland I think I make a very good 
 hen. The chicks run after either of us, as they would 
 after their mother. Leyland busied himself for two days 
 making a house of reeds for them ; very complete it is, 
 and a hen with four chickens in it, but she will not take 
 to them, so they must come into their basket at nights ; 
 and on wet days (like this day) must be indulged for a 
 little running about the floor. They are very happy, 
 poor things, and there is a large yellow one so benignant 
 and solemn-looking, so full and fair, that I call it " little 
 Richard," after Dicky B., whom he brought to my mind. 
 Another little sharp, attractive, tender wee thing I call 
 "Jamie," after young J, D. K. He is the leader of the 
 rest, and always comes for sympathy and notice. But 
 why do I write so much on so trifling a subject to you, 
 my dear mother ? It must be, because I know all that 
 interests me will interest you, as showing you how my 
 time is filled. Leyland looked so very picturesque on 
 the sofa with his chickens, and the three kittens, who 
 are half-jealous, half-amused, and not daring to play 
 with the chicks, and the chicks lying close by them at 
 times, that I could not help trying to make a sketch of 
 them to-day, one having crept up to him after the other ; 
 and you see what I have made of it. After the chickens 
 were secured, we looked about for traces of the ma- 
 rauders, and there, sure enough, were the footprints of 
 two tiger-cats, a large one and a small one, probably 
 mother and cub (tiger cats are really panthers, but people 
 here call them tigers). Last night something took 
 twelve new chickens from the farm, leaving the hen 
 dead, with her neck tightly impressed by teeth-marks. 
 We have another pet — a lame pigeon that the horse
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 145 
 
 trod on, and broke its leg and wing. It is doing well. 
 I took it up to the stable in the daytime, but it hopped 
 back to the house at night, came in, to our great surprise, 
 and was quite pleased to be put into its basket. 
 
 The weather here changes so suddenly that I fear it 
 must be trying to the constitution. For example, 
 yesterday was a lovely day, but oppressively hot, with 
 considerable wind like sirocco, yet not hot ; thermometer 
 at So° in the shade. I said that I thought all the starch 
 would run out of my thin muslin dress with the curious 
 heat ! About seven in the evening a thunder-storm 
 came on, and this morning was so cold and wet that we 
 lighted the fire in the house, and I breakfasted in my 
 warm merino dress, with my cloth jacket over it ! We 
 have had a fire all day, and nothing but its comfortable, 
 cheerful aspect would have kept me out of bed till this 
 late hour (half-past eleven), an unusually late hour for 
 us. Leyland is practising his cornopean with Mary's 
 music. Our neighbour, the carpenter, plays the flute 
 tolerably and the cornopean a little. 
 
 I hope I may be spared to return home to England 
 and see all the loved ones again. Leyland says, " We 
 shall both go home," but I see no groundwork for such 
 hope at present, and after my illness in the Bay I 
 examined the question in a practical manner. Time is 
 such a minute particle of Eternity, that I try to think it 
 of very little moment whether we return at all. If we 
 do so, we shall both have learned a few lessons of 
 thankfulness, as we shall have seen and felt a good 
 deal more of what others are called upon to struggle 
 through. 
 
 We have had no mail now since January 30th. The 
 Sir Robert Peel has broken down, and the Natal has not 
 yet appeared : she has been about seventy days out, 
 and no one knows anything of her. W 7 e are therefore 
 in the same position as when we first came, the mail 
 being conveyed to and from the Cape by any chance 
 vessel. We are in so much worse case that, people 
 having gone off to the diggings, vessels are much more 
 rare. We have been eating sour flour for a month ; 
 
 L
 
 146 My African Home ; or, 
 
 there is none good to be had. The holders of flour 
 will be rather glad of the detention of the steamer, as 
 they can sell their bad flour at good prices, from four- 
 pence halfpenny to sixpence per pound. 
 
 We went over the farm to-day. The beans, arrowroot, 
 and sugar-canes look beautiful, but, alas ! there is always 
 some drawback. The wild pigs ate two acres of pump- 
 kins lately ; the white ants are doing their best at the 
 sugar-cane, and I expect to hear of the pigs getting at 
 the arrowroot next. Yet there is something agreeable 
 in the manner of life here. It is more like the freedom 
 of seaside quarters in a lightly furnished cottage than 
 anything else. There is no " behind the scenes," no 
 "humbug." We go on wonderfully comfortably. lam 
 becoming so accustomed to running out to look after 
 the culinary department, that I do not much mind 
 having to do it, except on very wet days, when the 
 cooking, instead of being under the sky, is in the iron 
 house. 
 
 April 7th, 1854. — Our pleasant friend, Mrs. Collins, has 
 been laid low with a fever, similar to that I had last 
 year. She is to come to us for change of air with her 
 eldest girl, Jessie, as soon as she can bear the journey. 
 I intended she should have our bed-room and we go up- 
 stairs, but on the whole she will prefer and be quieter 
 upstairs, so we are making the garret comfortable, lining 
 the thatch with strong calico steeped in alum to prevent 
 its catching flame, and nailing it tight (with the car- 
 penter's help). It will look clean and cheerful, and 
 spare the fear lest some vermin should drop on your 
 lace while you sleep under unprotected thatch. 
 
 A family of young rats has found out our cheese-box, 
 but traps are set in abundance, and they are being 
 caught. A worse dread has half-entered my head lest 
 a snake should be in the thatch, for my husband saw a 
 long one jump from one of the posts that support the 
 roof, and scuttle off under a hedge. This accounts for 
 the disappearance of some of our little chickens. We 
 have taken out the hedge, but found no snake, and the 
 fear has almost left me.
 
 Bush Life in Natal, 147 
 
 My husband fired at a tiger two nights ago, when the 
 opening of the door startled the beast, and it made off. 
 Two or three of our hens fell victims. A famous trap 
 came home yesterday in consequence, but the tiger was 
 too much alarmed to return so soon. However, we hope 
 both it and its young ones^ (it had two, we think) will 
 return, and as many more as choose to step over our trap. 
 We have been clipping the wings of the fowls to keep 
 them in the hen-yard, but a good many flew over in 
 the scuffle. But tor the vermin our fowls would pick 
 about and feed themselves, and live happily. There is 
 plenty of space cleared, but the farther we clear the 
 farther they ramble, and so get into the way of the 
 vermin. 
 
 I have just been " copying " a beautiful red, white, and 
 black beetle my husband has brought in, but I can 
 give only a very faint idea of the beauty and delicacy of 
 the feathers with which it is covered, for it appears to 
 be in a transition state, or something between a moth 
 and a beetle. 
 
 The men are busy " stumping," as they call taking 
 out the roots of trees. It is hot work, and my husband 
 has sent a Caffre to take them some cold tea to drink. 
 Besides all the trees and bushes to be rooted out, there 
 is an entanglement of weeds firmly rooted in the earth, 
 and there are creepers so strong that determination and 
 patience are required. I watched the Caffres at work 
 for some time this morning, and could not help a sigh 
 at the number of strokes required to clear a single yard 
 of earth. The Caffres are always ready to laugh and 
 joke over their work. They came upon the scull and 
 bones of some former habitant, and a broken cruse for 
 water, and were merry upon it, the merriment induced 
 by our asking what they thought became of the man 
 after death. Their reply, more than half by signs, 
 seemed to imply he might have become a snake. My 
 husband told them that if they were good they would go 
 up, pointing to the sky, and if bad, down, upon which 
 they laughed. What a field for the bishop ! But if six 
 months' hard study would enable me to converse freely 
 
 L 2
 
 148 My African Home; or, 
 
 with them, I would gladly give it. It is grievous to be 
 so tongue-tied, where I might have so many opportunities 
 of awakening their minds. I long to tell them of the 
 Saviour, whose need they feel not. 
 
 April 2gt/i. — I have been dressing dolls for a chari- 
 table bazaar first making the dolls, stuffing them with 
 cotton-waste, covering the heads with a kid glove and 
 painting the faces. Two good-sized ones are very 
 pretty, and now I am forming a class — five little girls are 
 ready with books in hand standing on a board waiting 
 for the mistress, rod in hand, and her seat, which will 
 soon be added. I hope it will take well. The. children 
 who have seen them are delighted. 
 
 May 12th. — We have a nice little family in Gudgeon's 
 cottage on a visit. Mrs. Duncan, the gunsmith's wife 
 (who came in so heartily, her baby in her arms, to attend 
 me when J. was taken ill, and no nurse to be had), and 
 her four neat, tidy children. They have come for change 
 of air and country life, and are very happy playing 
 about and learning to be useful to their mother, as they 
 soon become in a colony, poor things ! 
 
 June igt/t. — April 5th brought February letters from 
 England. Since then no mail has arrived in Natal, 
 and only chance letters by sailing-vessels. The Jane 
 Morice brought us, among other good things, a box of 
 preserves and pickles, which had made the whole voyage 
 turned bottom upwards. Not a bottle nor jar was 
 broken, but more than half were empty, the contents 
 squeezed up and drained as tight and dry as they could 
 be through their bladders, and a thick yellow and green 
 mould formed outside. The two steamers between the 
 Cape and Durban are both disabled. The Natal has 
 been unlucky from the. commencement of her career, so 
 the mails are more irregular than they were by the 
 sailing-vessels. We feel almost on a desert island, we 
 know so little of what goes on in the world. A sailing- 
 vessel, the Gitana, brought news of the March mails 
 being on board the Natal steamer ready for her start a 
 few days later, but nothing more has been heard of her, 
 and the Gitana has returned towards the Cape. People
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 149 
 
 are very angry because the mails were not transferred to 
 the Git ana. 
 
 We have had a pleasant visit of a month's duration 
 from our friends, Mr. and Mrs. Collins, with two of their 
 children, Mrs. C. having had a serious illness. Her 
 month of rest with us quite set her up again, and made 
 a new person of her. ' Her children also greatly benefited 
 by the change, and gave very little trouble. They were 
 very good, playing out of doors all day with the little 
 Duncans. But as we were so ill-served with either 
 Caffres or white people just then, my hands were kept 
 very busy to provide food for them all, Mrs. Chick 
 seldom making her appearance till breakfast was over, 
 and then staying as short as she could, looking like a 
 martyr all the time. I enjoyed my visitors, and only 
 regretted that my work would not permit me to wear my 
 best dresses ! One day, in getting some meat out of the 
 soup-pan, the Caffre splashed all over the front of my 
 alpaca dress, which I had just turned and made like a new 
 dress. I instantly washed it ; but, alas ! it must have a 
 more thorough scrub before the stain will yield. It has 
 been a famous dress, and has done its duty well, and 
 when I give it up I shall probably cut it up for a frock 
 for Margaret Smith. 
 
 Smith has re-engaged with us. He liked his old 
 master better than his new place, and as poor, stupid, 
 lazy Chick is " sick, tired, and disgusted " with our 
 place, he is to leave in a month, and neither he nor his 
 vacant wife will be much lamented. I set her to score a 
 fine leg of pork one day before roasting it, and showed 
 her how to do it. After a row or two 1 turned to some- 
 thing else. for a minute, and looking round again found 
 her knife half through the meat, making steaks of it, she 
 staring unconsciously before her. The first fowl she sent 
 to table had its legs up in the air, and its wings ready to 
 fiy away. And the climate gets blamed when ladies 
 grow ill ! Accustomed to seeing everything sent up 
 right in England, an active-minded, healthy lady cannot 
 sit still, and not try to make things better with her own 
 hands, and the lazy servant lets her do it.
 
 1 50 My African Home ; or, 
 
 A volunteer corps has been formed for the defence of 
 Durban, in case the military should be withdrawn, and 
 our gentlemen are undergoing drill at seven o'clock in 
 the morning, my husband getting up before daylight to 
 be in Durban in time. I hope we shall have no Caffre 
 outbreak just now, when the colony is beginning to lift 
 up its head a little ; yet croakers think nothing more 
 Hkely if the troops are removed. I do not think 
 General Cathcart effected much on a permanent basis. 
 The Caffres are something like the Canaanites of old 
 when the Israelites were sent into their land to possess it, 
 and to exterminate the Canaanites, and those who should 
 be left would be as thorns in their path. 
 
 A very interesting account is given of a Caffre village 
 in the interior, where they have, under missionaries, 
 built good huts and a church, which is used also as a 
 school. " A little learning is a dangerous thing," and I 
 am told these Caffres are the worst and least to be 
 trusted of any Caffres. Civilized to a certain extent, 
 without religion for their ground-work, they use their 
 learning for bad purposes. 
 
 June, 1854. — We are enjoying some fine oranges 
 grown in a neighbour's garden. We sent for three 
 shillings' worth, when sixty-three grand ones were re- 
 turned as " a neighbour's portion." They should be 
 ninepence a dozen. A gentleman, in speaking of these 
 trees lately, said they were finer than any he saw in 
 Spain ; they are certainly much finer and better grown 
 than any I saw in Italy or the Esterelles. I am told 
 there have been upwards of 10,000 oranges in Durban 
 from the Sea View trees, yet the trees look as if none 
 had been taken from them : so much for the climate of 
 Natal ! They are ten years old. 
 
 While our friends were with us, we all went in a body 
 to call upon our valued neighbour, Mrs. Bowen ; our 
 invalid on horseback, the rest of us walking. The visit 
 did the old lady good, and cheered her when in low 
 spirits. There had been some joke about the colour of my 
 husband's eyes, which she said she had forgotten ; so when 
 I entered I told her I had brought my friends and visitors 
 and my husband, that she might learn for herself the
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 151 
 
 colour of his eyes. She at once ushered us into her hut 
 — for it was nothing more — and produced a bottle of 
 port wine, and a cake of her own making. She showed 
 us her garden, and gave the little girl a packet of seeds 
 to plant in her mamma's garden at Maritzberg. Next 
 day she wrote me a spirited little note in praise of my 
 husband's eyes, but lamenting that she had neglected 
 the opportunity to obtain some information about 
 arrowroot. She said : " Previous to your visit my heart 
 was at zero ; there was a cause ; but the face of a friend 
 is never more cheering than in such hours. I felt and 
 now acknowledge its power gratefully. But I was a 
 little fluttered, and find I left unsaid what I most desired 
 to say — and verily, said a great many most silly and 
 needless things. Alas ! it is thus always with me. So, 
 when too late, I discovered that it would have been 
 wiser to have sought the advice of Mr. Feilden as to 
 removing my arrowroot. I was quite on the alert some 
 weeks ago, but was extinguished by some words from 
 the Bay. In consequence, nothing has been done. Is 
 it a proper time to take up or not ? I ought to be 
 better informed about it than I find myself to be, having 
 had a very large quantity in Paranagua, and made 
 much of it for home consumption ; but I am daily 
 made more sensible of my ignorance ! If I should live 
 a few years longer, only think what a poor ninny I am 
 likely to be ! I did look at the eyes, and own they are 
 worth looking at ; full of intellect, energy, and warm 
 affections." 
 
 A gentleman rode out to call the other day, whose 
 wife became deranged after her confinement, and cut 
 her throat from ear to ear just ten days before his call. 
 Poor man ! he looked very sad, and was trying to drive 
 away distressing thoughts by motion. We were afraid 
 to ask for his children, but he named them. The wife, 
 of course, was buried the day after death, and this, to 
 me, is the saddest thought of all. No sooner is the 
 breath out of the body than the grave closes over it, 
 and all goes on as before. So soon are people ap- 
 parently forgotten in a hot climate, and so sudden often 
 is their end.
 
 152 Mv African Home; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THERE was a marriage in Durban yesterday. A gentle- 
 man met a young lady who was visiting a friend of ours, 
 and thought she looked as if she would make a good 
 wife. He consulted the lady of the house, who advised 
 him to wait a little till they should become better ac- 
 quainted ; but he replied, " What's the use of waiting ? 
 We shall always be on our good behaviour beforehand." 
 And so they are married. 
 
 Our friends left us on Saturday afternoon, and it has 
 turned out such dreadful weather that I doubt they will 
 be half-starved, half-drowned, and altogether out of 
 sorts, and disgusted with their journey. The wagons 
 out-span at nights, but if it rain badly they do not 
 " trek ;" so an uncomfortable, expensive inn, if they are 
 near one, or a weary, weary wagon, must be their lot, 
 without room almost to stir from their place. Mrs. 
 Collins looked quite like a new creature when she leit. 
 The rest, comfort, change of air, and good porter (or 
 rather, the bad porter, for it was not good) made such 
 an improvement in her. 
 
 My husband returned from Durban that day very ill, 
 with a blistered rash all over him from head to foot, and 
 very sick. Somebody had treated him with shrimps, 
 which he had eaten with the shells ; and this was the 
 consequence. He got better in a day or two. 
 
 I fear my journal growing wearisome, but I leave 
 untold a great many disasters and troubles, and there is 
 no word of exaggeration ; quite the contrary. 
 
 June 26th, 1S54. — We have had two of the coldest 
 days I have known since we came to Natal, the wind
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 153 
 
 blowing strong and keen, while torrents of rain poured 
 down whenever the wind gave the rain a chance. It 
 beat through the crevices round the window in the room 
 upstairs, and through the floor into the rooms below. 
 Presently a stream poured* in under the sitting-room 
 window, and under the bedroom door. We mopped up, 
 set dishes to catch the drops, and crammed gunny-bags 
 against the floor to soak it up. We had, fortunately, 
 an extra supply of wood indoors, so wc kept up a beauti- 
 ful fire, and Mr. Kock, who rode out just before the 
 storm, seemed quite to enjoy our bright fireside. He 
 had to stay all night, however, and as the wind blew 
 fiercely in the room upstairs, he made his bed on the 
 sofa in the sitting-room, and slept beside the fire. In 
 the morning all the wood was burnt up ; bo Leyland 
 went out to find more, and to make the Caffres bring it, 
 for the poor creatures cowered shivering over their fire 
 in the iron house, and seemed too much benumbed to 
 do anything. I had some difficulty to get breakfast 
 ready, as Mrs. Chick could not come over in such a 
 storm. A pool was formed between the house and 
 kitchen. I donned a pair of worsted stockings and my 
 clogs, an extra petticoat and cloth jacket, my tartan 
 shawl above all, and my large straw hat tied closely 
 down over my ears and shoulders, and thus fortified 
 against wind and weather, trotted backwards and for- 
 wards fearlessly, while the gentlemen in the house made 
 the fire and coffee, toasted bread, and fried the herrings, 
 while I, in the kitchen outside, boiled rice and curried 
 fowl ; and we made a famous breakfast, finishing about 
 ten o'clock, having begun our preparations at eight. 
 So much for a wet day in Natal. I got all washed up 
 and cleared away before Mrs. Chick arrived. The day 
 cleared up a little after a time. We read and worked 
 indoors and out till towards 4 p.m., when we took a rapid 
 walk up and down till dinner should be ready, looking 
 at the new gate across the bush-path, &c., &c, and 
 returned to a most capital dinner, consisting of good 
 barley broth, cold chicken and sausage, meat pic, greens, 
 potatoes, and suet dumpling. Sherry wine, Harvey's
 
 154 My African Home ; or, 
 
 sauce, and walnut pickles to flavour the whole, with 
 splendid oranges and bananas for dessert ! And now, 
 at j-even o'clock, we are snug beside " our ain fireside " 
 — my husband's favourite toast, — he reading on the easy- 
 chair, with his toes close to a beautiful bright wood fire, 
 I writing beside him, with my back rejoicing in the warm 
 blaze. And now Caffre Tom (for Bonnet, alas ! has not 
 come back, though he promised he would) has brought 
 in the great kettle for tea at about 7 p.m., that he 
 may " go sleep in craal " till the same hour to-morrow 
 morning, as the sun does not rise earlier just now. 
 
 June 28//z. — Leyland wishes me to register our 
 dinners for a month ; but that would never do. How- 
 ever, to give an idea of our style of life at this time, 
 I may make a few notes as I go along. We rose 
 yesterday at 6.30, a dark morning. I lighted the fire in 
 the house, put the cold coffee on to warm, and we were 
 soon seated at breakfast with eggs and toast. Leyland 
 rode off to the sugar estate, and came home at 6.30 in 
 the evening, tired and vexed, and found dinner weary 
 of waiting for him. After it I read aloud to him from 
 " The Successful Merchant," a nice book lately sent by 
 a friend in England. My kitchen Caffre is ill, and can 
 do nothing, so I took him in the forenoon with me to 
 call on my neighbour, Mrs. Bowen, with whom I stayed 
 an hour and a half, listening to her fancied and real 
 troubles, and left her, I think, cheered and comforted 
 by having relieved her mind. 
 
 To-day we were again up before it was quite light, 
 and again had the fire and breakfast to prepare our- 
 selves. Presently " Tom " came, still so ill in his head 
 that Leyland gave him a couple of pills, and sent him 
 to the craal, and now " Breeks " is to try his skill in the 
 kitchen. I have set him to clean pans to begin with, 
 for poor Tom kept them very badly. I miss Bonnet 
 very much, he was so clean. I suppose mealies are 
 plentiful, for he promised to return in a month, and six 
 weeks have now passed. In running out to the kitchen 
 just now for a few bits of wood to keep fire in the log in 
 our grate, I was greatly amused with Breeks — who is
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 155 
 
 squatted on the ground cleaning the pans — coolly asking 
 me to hand the axe to him. It was nearer me than 
 him, and I did it, knowing how impossible it was for me 
 to make him understand why he should have jumped up 
 to get it himself. 
 
 I have four pettitoes stewing away on our fire. I 
 dared not trust them to the Caffre's discretion, and 
 they were on an hour before Mrs. Chick made her 
 appearance. 
 
 Evening of the 2W1 June. — I kept up my fire, while 
 the pettitoes simmered away beautifully, working at 
 Mary's embroidery and tending the fire by turns. At 
 three o'clock my husband came home, bringing a beaf- 
 steak in his pocket, with Mr. Mellor and Mr. Kock for 
 an early dinner. We sent off for Mrs. Chick in a hurry ; 
 got Mafame to light the fire in the kitchen, while we 
 took a little walk in the grounds. Presently I left the 
 gentlemen, came in to prepare the table, and soon 
 dinner made its appearance. Broth, curried fowl, beef- 
 steak, toasted cheese, salad, greens, and potatoes, 
 with oranges for dessert Poor Tom wants to go 
 home till he is better, so he is to go to-morrow to his 
 craal. 
 
 There is a meeting of Durban Rangers to-night, so 
 Leyland has ridden into town with the gentlemen. It 
 will be too dark for him to ride through the bush, so I 
 am alone to-night. When I think there is the smallest 
 chance of his return, I sleep with my door untastened, 
 lest I should not hear to let him in. On one occasion, 
 I was aroused by his touching me. He had opened the 
 door, thrown down a pile of noisy things, a large bell 
 included, which I had piled up against it to alarm me 
 in case of attack from without, and I had slept through 
 it all ! 
 
 July \yh. — Another peck of troubles to record ! 
 
 Two nights ago a tiger entered the cattle-craal, and 
 killed a fine young calf. As it only ate part of it, 
 Chick cut the calf up. He got part, and we get part, 
 and part was poisoned with strychnine for the tiger's 
 share next night, and as most of that is eaten, we
 
 156 My African Home; or, 
 
 conclude Mr. Tiger must be dead : at any rate we 
 hope so. There are more wild animals about than 
 usual ; the cold season has driven down several lions 
 that have been doing mischief amongst people's oxen 
 and cows. I dare not go alone to Mrs. Bowen's, nor 
 dare I take any one, except in the middle of the 
 day. 
 
 A neighbour sent us a present of a fine fish, so with a 
 fillet of veal from our poor calf, I told my husband 
 yesterday we were so well provisioned that he might 
 bring a friend home to dine. He brought two friends, 
 and Mrs. Smith brought her son Alec to stay to be our 
 servant. She herself stayed to cook our dinner and get 
 her own ; and very nice everything was. Soup for first 
 entree, fish the second, veal — the only veal I have seen. 
 I think, since we left England — sweet potatoes, French 
 beans, and cheese. We passed a pleasant, chatty 
 evening, and the gentlemen left early. 
 
 Before daylight this morning a gentleman rode up 
 with a message, which he delivered through the closed 
 door, wanting my husband in Durban. JNo Caffre was 
 yet stirring, but with Alec Smith's help we soon lighted 
 the fire, made breakfast, and the gentlemen set out. I 
 sent a note across to the farm for Chick to follow with 
 the cart to the sugar estate as soon as possible. Alec 
 came back saying Chick was very ilk he thought with 
 fever. I left the Caffre (here by this time) sweeping the 
 floor, and walked over to the farm to sec if Chick was 
 really so bad, or if it was only a cold, and a glass of hot 
 brand)' and water might be useful. At ail events I took 
 the brandy-bottle in my hand, found the patient very 
 hot, but with a strong though quickish pulse, and a 
 sign of perspiration. I assured him it was not fever, but 
 fearing to create it (he was so much excited) I did not 
 give him brandy, but his wife made him some hot gruel 
 at once, and I left him, hoping he would be able to go 
 with the cart, as it was important. Indeed I was in a 
 great fright lest he should not be able, for the beans 
 had to be shipped before Saturday, and how was I to 
 let my husband know our dilemma ? Alec was rather
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 157 
 
 young and new to manage the business. I came home, 
 walked up to the stable with a message, and saw 
 Leyland's horse standing there ! It was a great relief, 
 yet I knew he too was wanted. He had met Gorge 
 coming to see the proposed new road, and turned 
 with him, and before he set oat again all the Caffres 
 came home from Springfield, having done the beans ; 
 so it was fortunate Gorge turned my husband, as I 
 should not have known what to do. It ended in all 
 staying till afternoon, when cart and Leyland went into 
 town. Now a report spreads that the mail is in at last, 
 so he will wait to bring our letters, and I feel almost 
 too tired to read them if the}/ come. Alec and I have 
 done all the work to-day, and with my house-work and 
 journeys to and from the farm, I feel quite done up. I 
 have fed the fowls, gathered the eggs, half cooked the 
 dinner, and waited upon every one, dark or light, and 
 row am glad to sit quiet, mending my husband's socks, 
 or writing in my journal. It is not much past seven ; 
 the moon will not rise for two or three hours, yet have 
 I had my twelve or thirteen hours' busy, active work 
 to-day. The weather is very lovely : it is cold for this 
 climate, but bright and sunshiny, and pleasantly cool 
 from ten tili five p.m. The mornings are cold ; I can 
 wear worsted stockings, and cloth jacket over a merino 
 dress ! We bum a nice cheerful wood fire twice a day, 
 but nearly as much for use to boil the kettle, &c, as for 
 personal comfort. 
 
 July i$th. — Our long-expected mail has come in, but 
 only with the March letters. We are glad, however, to find 
 that the»steamer between Natal and the Cape is to con- 
 tinue to run, which will be an advantage. We feel greatly 
 interested in reading of this Russian war, and hope that 
 the decisive and vigorous measures at last adopted will 
 speedily put an end to it, and that God will again bless 
 the arms of England. It seems a singular fate to be 
 called upon to fight for Mohammedans, yet, from all we 
 read on the subject, that will be more likely to forward 
 the cause of Christ than if Russia, with all its boast of a 
 religious war, should gain the day. That God's pur-
 
 158 My African Home; or, 
 
 poses are to be advanced by this singular war I have no 
 doubt. 
 
 I was much interested lately reading an article upon 
 the war in China, in an American magazine called The 
 Living Age. A great work is going on there in a most 
 extraordinary manner. Missionaries are mixed up with 
 it ; but the zeal they inspire in the Chinese rebels 
 appears full of superstition, ignorance, and wrong. Be- 
 lief in Jesus Christ is one of their watchwords, and they 
 demolish idols and pagodas, but they do not seem to 
 know what Christianity means. It is still, however, a 
 step in advance, if God permit the rebels to continue to 
 succeed. It is thought that a pupil of Dr. Gutzlaff is at 
 the bottom of the movement, and that Christians, of 
 whatever sect they may be, are taking advantage of the 
 disaffection of the rebels to instil more of their own 
 notions and foment their discontent, and thus give 
 themselves an opening. There seem to be five " kings " 
 or leaders among the rebels, who, if victorious, are to 
 divide the empire between them, and supersede the 
 present unpopular dynasty. The " signs of the times " 
 call upon us all to be prepared for great changes ; 150 
 years or less will bring us into the third thousand since 
 the coming of Christ. As Christ came in the end of 
 the world, I have always thought it is meant that He 
 came in the last half. There were 4004 years before, 
 and thus fewer than 150 years will bring us into the 
 seventh or Sabbath thousand. May not the calculations 
 of great men upon the Apocalypse extend a little, so as 
 to be brought to the beginning ot the seventh thousand ? 
 But I will not venture beyond my depth. I was merely 
 reasoning from analogy— the seventh day was to be 
 holy to the Lord, a day of rest, and a day in God's sight 
 is as a thousand years, and a thousand years as one 
 day. 
 
 Let us be ready ; but the constant, active labour and 
 superintendence of domestic matters are very apt to 
 make the spirit of Martha prevail over that of Mary. I 
 find it so ; but let us strive for Mary's spirit while we do 
 Martha's work. I feel great sympathy now with those
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 159 
 
 poor people who must be about household work at all 
 odd or even times. These cares must engross both our 
 time and thoughts, unless we let things look after them- 
 selves. The little trilling affairs of life are constantly 
 engrossing me, but what can we do, when no one can be 
 found to take the charge of any one department off our 
 hands ?' I hope the Smiths, who have again engaged 
 with us, will be a relief to Leyland on the sugar estate, 
 and that Alec, a good, steady boy, will equally assist us 
 at the house. 
 
 August 2nd. — My dearest Mother, — I have been 
 thinking so much of you lately, wishing you were here to 
 enjoy our delicious weather. I have pictured you so often 
 dodging about, just drawing in the fine, balmy, cool air, 
 so dry, so pure, so fresh, so mild. Do you remember the 
 climate of Naples in winter ? how we revelled in it ! 
 yet we did not go out in the early morning, to have the 
 best of it. This morning I was out before the sun had 
 quite shown his face, and I wondered how any one could 
 stay in bed. That is not early here, for the sun does 
 not rise just now till seven o'clock. For some hours 
 after six, the atmosphere is perfectly delicious. It is 
 dark till six. 
 
 Leyland has had to leave me for a few days, to go one 
 of those wearisome horse-journeys — forty or fifty miles 
 a day — to his brother's farm. No sooner was he fairly 
 started than, as usual when absent, he was sent for, a 
 vessel having run ashore and wrecked. Mr. is cer- 
 tainly very energetic, and never spares himself in any 
 emergency, which in this indolent climate is a qualifi- 
 cation rarely met with. He is working hard at the 
 wreck, to save the cargo, and rode out after dark last 
 night to borrow all the Caffres we could spare. Unfor- 
 tunately, we are short just now, and could only send 
 three, including my kitchen Caffre. So I turned out 
 early this morning, and took Alec Smith (my sole guar- 
 dian at present), and went over to the farm, to expedite 
 matters, knowing the spurring that would be required to 
 get them off before nine or ten o'clock. Sure enough, 
 we found no sign of life except the cocks and hens ; so
 
 160 My African Home ; or, 
 
 we roused up everybody, saw the Caffres at their "scoff," 
 came home again, and returned to hurry them away 
 before eight o'clock. I really think Chick would not 
 stir quicker to save his wife's life. 
 
 Alec is very handy, and a steady boy of fourteen. I 
 have him opposite to me at this moment, writing in one 
 of Mary's copy-books. His year of schooling has given 
 him a start and desire to learn. Leyland takes his sums 
 in hand, and hears him say three new verses from St. 
 John's Gospel every evening. He is to have sixpence 
 for each chapter he learns perfectly, and he hopes to go 
 through the whole Gospel. By thus keeping him always 
 employed, and making him feel we take an interest in 
 him, we hope to prevent his forming acquaintances in 
 idle hours who would do him no good, and to prevent 
 his feeling dull alone here, away from his brothers. He 
 is very fond of poultry, and we have plenty to amuse 
 and interest him. I have had four dozen eggs in three 
 days ! 
 
 I have been so busy, getting the house cleaned and 
 put in order, that I have no time to feel dull, except 
 towards evening ; and then this anxiety of my husband 
 being wanted to direct many things (the wreck having 
 upset the orders that he left) has prevented my sleeping 
 at night, and given me a sort of nervous headache, lest 
 I should not do exactly as he would have wished. Then, 
 when I have felt restless and uneasy, how many times 
 have I repeated to myself, " Thou wilt keep him in per- 
 fect peace whose heart is stayed on Thee." The wrecked 
 vessel is American, the Ariosto, from Sumatra to Boston, 
 laden with pepper and spices. She was out of her 
 reckoning, sailed in shore, and now lies — not like a 
 wreck — on the beach, behind the Custom House, about 
 ioo yards from the shore. It seems quite a mystery 
 how she could have run in shore at such a place, with a 
 full, clear moon and not a breath of air stirring. They 
 say they thought they were at some port or bay iooo 
 miles off! but why try to run in there before daylight ? 
 
 My husband intended to return to-morrow night, but 
 it will be hard riding ; how little we know what a day
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 161 
 
 may bring forth ! I said on his setting out, " I hope 
 nothing will happen while you are absent to require you 
 back." His friend replied, " Oh, nothing will." So they 
 set out on their different ways, and an hour after all this 
 happened. They sent after him to his first stopping- 
 place, but he had pushed on. I dare say Mr. J. will 
 do almost as well without him ; but it would have 
 relieved me from responsibility here in countermanding 
 his orders. 
 
 Mr. S. will hear all about his business next mail. It 
 seems an infamous colonial cheat, and gives an insight 
 into the way in which unwary people are trapped by 
 their sharper-witted brethren. I know so much about 
 it, because I was employed as copyist of a long letter of 
 information obtained from a lawyer in making the re- 
 quired inquiries. Mr. F. has been dealt with as villain- 
 ously in a different way, and my husband pretty nearly 
 so. Wisdom is dearly and fiercely bought in a new 
 colony, but here they are quite a different class and styie 
 of people — cheats, I nearly wrote — from those we hear 
 of in Australia, and we lead quite a different kind of life. 
 1 have been reading one or two books lately on Australia, 
 and I must say that the comparison is in favour of Natal 
 in many respects. The evils we suffer from are chiefly 
 want of capitalists and want of labourers. Caffre labour 
 is so fugitive. Caffres are such free, independent gentle- 
 men, you don't know when to count upon them. 
 
 There has been a curious attempt lately to establish a 
 scheme of Mr. Shepstone's and the bishop's. It has 
 been kept so close that no one can quite make out what 
 the)- wish to do, but it appears they wished to take away 
 the Caffres (as many as chose to go) from Natal, and to 
 establish them in a separate kingdom somewhere in a 
 bordering country. Mr. Shepstone,who knows the Caffres 
 intimately, and is greatly their friend, was to be their 
 chief or k ng, and to govern them with modified Caffre 
 laws, as far as they were compatible with Christianity or 
 not entirely opposed to its doctrines, and they were to 
 become civilized and, if possible, Christianized. No 
 English, excepting those in connection with the working 
 
 M
 
 162 My African Home ; or, 
 
 of the scheme, were to be permitted to dwell in the land. 
 It appears to me an entirely romantic fancy, fraught 
 with fully as much evil as good. But the Caffres are as 
 difficult to move as a sitting hen— a simile that has been 
 practically brought to my notice lately. The plan which 
 was first to obtain their sanction has failed, we are told, 
 and not altogether to be regretted. Imagine a powerful 
 nation of able-bodied Caffres, under an English king, 
 looking upon our small colony of white men with jealous 
 and perhaps ambitious eyes ! civilized enough to feel 
 their physical force, and probably not sufficiently Chris- 
 tianized to understand the Tenth Commandment ! Or, 
 fancy Mr. Shepstone (whom all allow to be a sincere, 
 good man regarding Caffres) dying ; who is to succeed ? 
 His son is a little boy, and what kind of a king would 
 he be ? The Caffres would prefer a king from amongst 
 their own colour, and what then ? The Caffre is indo- 
 lent ; he lives only like the beast, to eat and sleep, and 
 pass through life with ease ; but to do this he must have 
 his land tilled, and to purchase wives to till his land, 
 he must have cows to pay for them. He sells his 
 daughters to be drudges to other Caffres, while the boys 
 and young men go out to work for the white man, till 
 they can in turn buy cows and wives. Caffres differ from 
 beasts in one essential : they heartily share anything they 
 have with each other, and eat out of the same pot without 
 the least feeling of who shall huve most. Snuff they 
 share also ; and I have seen my Caffre cut off what he 
 thought would be his portion of the beef as it was 
 passing from Durban to the craal, and the Caffre who 
 carried it never offered the smallest objection. 
 
 August ^tJi. — I am still alone, so I must continue my 
 chat while Alec writes his copy. I am getting on nicely 
 with Mary's embroidery, and as the flowers I require for 
 my pattern come into bloom I get the natural ones to 
 copy if possible, but I fear some will be over before I 
 am ready for them. 
 
 We had a very pleasant and interesting visit one day 
 from Mr. and Mrs. Fynn, long residents in Natal, and 
 well acquainted with Caffre character and habits. Mr.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 163 
 
 Fynn was the first Englishman who trod Natal soil, 
 thirty-five years ago. We sat late chatting over Caffre 
 history and rule. I was ill in the night from over- 
 excitement and interest in the conversation, and when I 
 came to myself, after a long fainting fit, I found Mrs. 
 Fynn sitting on my bed with a kind, gentle smile of 
 compassion for my helpless state, and my husband at 
 the other side. Mr. Fynn rode off for the doctor, who, 
 when he came, said my stomach was out of order, and 
 that I should soon be better again ; and so it proved. 
 
 M 2
 
 1 64 My African Home; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 I THINK I must again introduce my dear friend Mrs. 
 Bowen in one of her pithily-expressed notes. She 
 says : — 
 
 " My dear Friend, — 
 
 " I have only life left enough to thank you for the 
 books again and again. A rougher day I have never 
 had since I came here ; rough work, violent winds, 
 squalling brats, white ants, dust, dirt, and tar. Oh, 
 dear ! And, to finish the day agreeably, a new Yahoo 
 is coming this evening to ask a deal and do little. But 
 why do I tell you all this ? I do not like pity, and 
 help is far out of my reach. Pray don't pity, but pardon 
 me. Hoping, nay, praying, for better things for you 
 and yours." 
 
 A few days later she writes : — 
 
 " I thank you a thousand times, because you can ill 
 snare even a few moments to cheer me. I know not 
 how to frame letters for a female Yahoo, but I do know 
 in what high colours Dean Swift drew their pictures. 
 Pshaw ! lie was a bad man ! I have done with balls, 
 except of silk or woollen, long, long ago, and am not 
 sorry to hear you repudiate them also. I do not wish 
 to infer anything immoral therein, but I do remember so 
 many little touches of envy, hatred, and malice, mixed 
 up with pleasure {?), that their reminiscences are not 
 amiable. Yet / have a strong reason to say little against 
 them (tell you some time). I am pleased to hear of 
 Mr. F.'s musical talent— all good in time and season. 
 Dear Cumming ! I wish I had all his works ! By-the- 
 bye, pray pardon my keeping ' Romaine' so lonq; ; believe 
 me he does not lie idle on the shelf. Poor Mrs. G. has
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 165 
 
 left her baby to laugh or cry on the bed at pleasure, so 
 please excuse this almost unintelligible scrawl, and 
 believe me yours sincerely, 
 
 " M. Bowen." 
 
 August \6th. — A ship bearing the Enghsh mail is 
 reported in, so we may* get our letters at last. Five 
 months without home news ! Our last letters were 
 dated March 12th. 
 
 I sent Caffre "Jim " soon after seven this morning to 
 fetch meat from Durban. He returned at ten, as 
 quick as any messenger ever has done on loot. 
 
 September 2nd. — The pine-apples will be a splendid 
 sight this vear. About 600 are showing fruit. We 
 must send them to the Cape for sale. I wish they coul 1 
 go to Covent Garden Market. We enjoyed one two 
 days ago that would have brought thirty shillings at 
 some confectioners in rare seasons. Until we have 
 means for preserving some, I expect we may have to 
 feed the pigs on them ; but they make very fine 
 vinegar. 
 
 Old Gudgeon has made his appearance once more. 
 It seems he went into the interior hunting with Captain 
 Stephenson, where they lost nine out of ten horses, and 
 had but indifferent sport. A short time ago some tails 
 ■ — trophies of the spoil — were sent to my husband by 
 Gudgeon, who wanted a change again. Instead of 
 delivering them himself he sent them up by a little boy, 
 and next day, seeing Alec Smith, he bid him tell his 
 master that " if he would write him a note and say he 
 wanted him, he would return and work as usual." The 
 following day we were struck by the sight of a figure 
 dressed in a red smock frock, a round nat surrounded 
 with ostrich feathers, and with a long grizzly beard 
 hanging down to his chest. In another moment we 
 recognized Gudgeon, who was quite drunk. My hus- 
 band told him he would not have him about the place, 
 but that if he liked he might see if Smith would employ 
 him on the sugar-farm. We gave him some coffee, with 
 cheese and bread, and he marched off like an injured 
 man. Smith refused him at first, but has since taken
 
 166 My African Home ; or, 
 
 him to work among the canes so long as he can keep 
 stead}'. He is more than half crazy with drink, and yet 
 has a wonderful "gift of the gab" to moralize on men 
 and matters. I am told he strutted about Durban for 
 some days with a high plume of feathers and his red 
 dress and grey beard, and made quite a picture for an 
 artist. He has rather a- good lace, but alas for his 
 brains ! Shortly after we came to Natal he proposed 
 to a widow with several children, who he thought would 
 be willing to take lrm for better for worse, telling me it 
 would be so comfortable for me to have a woman 
 servant who would remain in her place ! 
 
 I have a very nice handy young woman just now, wife 
 of the man who is engaged to look after the crops and 
 garden here. It they go on as well as they have begun 
 we shall be very well oft". I required some help, for 
 over-exertion, when I thought myself strong and well, 
 laid me on the sofa for a week or ten days, when we had 
 none but young Alec Smith to do anything about the 
 house. The boy did wonders. He cooked, baked, 
 looked after the fowls and horses, and worked with the 
 Caffres to keep them at it. 
 
 The hen-house has been visited by a tiger lately, 
 which pulled out a great piece of the hen-house wall, 
 and literally feasted. A trap was set and the hole left, 
 but Mr. Tiger, instead of entering thereby, pulled off 
 enough thatch to get in at the roof, took our large 
 Dutch cock, and we know not how many hens, one 
 mother and all her brood, and left two without heads 
 and their blood sucked. It is provoking to rear poul- 
 try for wild beasts. 
 
 We have cleared another road to run into the former. 
 It avoids two very bad hills, but is not quite so short. 
 It has opened up quite a new view of our little home. 
 
 I found my new servant, Mrs. Orchard, a very active, 
 intelligent young woman. Her husband had been 
 employed to convey goods by wagon to the interior, 
 and she accompanied him. She gave me so many 
 interesting anecdotes of her life there, that I wrote down 
 from her lips the following account.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 167 
 
 "Adventures of a party with a wagon conveying 
 goods from Durban to the Mooie river in the Vaal 
 district, beyond the Drakensberg : — 
 
 "On Saturday, the 2nd of April, 1853, two wagons 
 were laden with goods, ready to start with the light on the 
 following morning, under my husband's superintendence. 
 They arrived in the course of the forenoon at Pine Town, 
 where we joined them, and in the evening we all started 
 on our long 'trek,' taking two days to reach Maritzberg 
 (fifty-two miles distant from Durban), arriving there on 
 Tuesday evening. Here we remained until the following 
 Sunday, by which time three other wagons were ready 
 to join company, also under my husband's superintend- 
 ence, with a Dutchman and a Caffre to drive. We 
 crossed the hills on the other side of Maritzberg that 
 day, and stayed there till Monday morning. Thence 
 we went to the Umgeni river, crossing it on the evening 
 of Monday, and outspanningon its banks. By Tuesday 
 evening we had crossed the Mooie river, and outspanned 
 for the night. 
 
 " On Wednesday evening we crossed the Bushman's 
 river, an easy river, and outspanned beyond. Saturday 
 night we reached the Tugela river, the roads so far 
 being fairly good for unmade roads ; the country varied, 
 and presenting fine views. It took us exactly a week 
 to go from the Tugela to the foot of the Drakensberg 
 Mountain, over a rough, stony, steep road, with occa- 
 sional swamps. On Sunday, the 24th ot April, we 
 rested, my husband declining to go on the seventh day 
 any further. 
 
 "On Monday, the 25th, we commenced the ascent of 
 the Drakensberg Mountain, a most arduous and some- 
 what dangerous ascent of one hour and a half. It was 
 so steep tnat I was obliged to walk, or rather to climb 
 up, my little girl of two years beside me. The moun- 
 tain, which, is exceedingly rou^h, with large blocks of 
 cornered rocks spreading over the road, looked almost 
 like a wall before me. My child clomb on hands and 
 knees, grasping at one stone to reach the next. The 
 wagon was got up in safety, but it is a work of some
 
 1 68 My African Home ; or, 
 
 danger. The road slopes so much that two wheels are 
 generally off the ground, while the steps, or ledges of 
 rock, oblige the oxen to drag the wagon up a flight of 
 rough, steep stairs. 
 
 " The top of the Drakensberg opens upon a wide level 
 plain, quite uncultivated, and without a tree to light a 
 Are. Our supply of fuel had to be dragged up the 
 mountain, behind the wagon, in what we called the 
 trap. Besides this, as we outspanned on the top and 
 had a long bare plain before us, my husband sent the 
 Caffres down the mountain again, to carry up as much 
 more wood as they could. The road on the top of the 
 Drakensberg is very stony and difficult, but after 
 Harrismith it is so much easier and better that one 
 wagon was sent back down the mountain, and its load 
 disposed among the other wagons. It took us several 
 days to arrive at Harrismith. From Harrismith is a 
 fine unmade road, so smooth and level that I could 
 work with ease in the wagon, and got a good deal of 
 sewing done. We overtook a Dutchman's wagon 
 going the same road with his family, so we joined 
 company, and went on together, and after some time we 
 met a company of Dutch with wagons — several families 
 encamped on the plains in true patriarchal style, their 
 flocks, and herds, and fowls around them. It was the 
 Sabbath, and they were holding worship together in 
 their tents. The Dutch family in our company found 
 acquaintances amongst them, but as we could not under- 
 stand their language we could not avail ourselves of any 
 intercourse. 
 
 "The next morning we recommenced our 'trek,' but 
 had not proceeded far when we were alarmed by the 
 sight of a party of armed and mounted Caffres. As 
 they were going from us, the men of our party did not 
 think much of it, supposing them to be a hunting party, 
 but all day I felt uneasy, as if something was going 
 wrong, and towards evening a party of mounted Crauders 
 or Hottentots rushed down towards our wagons, pursued 
 in the distance by a larger number — perhaps 150 — of 
 Caffres. As the Hottentots came up with us they
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 169 
 
 begged us to conceal their chief in our wagons ; but, 
 the Caffres being within sight, we told them we could 
 not do it, as our own lives might be lost in consequence. 
 The chief, however, spiang from his horse, threw down 
 his gun, .and jumped into the wagon, catching the 
 Caffre driver by the throat to throw him down. By this 
 time the hostile Caffres came up, and demanded their 
 enemy. One threw his heavy knobkerry at the poor Hot- 
 tentot chief and broke his back, while numbers of assegais 
 were lodged in his body. The Dutchman then held a 
 parley with the Caffres, and unspanned that they might 
 search the wagons, and have mercy on our women, to 
 which, as we were neutral parties, they agreed. They 
 dragged the body of the murdered chief on the ground, 
 stripped it, and took the clothes. At the same time 
 a most fearful fight and slaughter were being carried on 
 between the two hostile tribes, legs of men and horses 
 were broken, and many left dead around us. I saw six 
 men and three; horses lying on the ground, and the 
 Caffres told the Dutchman that they had slain seventy 
 ot their enemy during the day. They did us no harm 
 otherwise ; but they carried off our chambock and whip. 
 While we were inspanning to resume our journey, the 
 vultures gathered over the place, and began their orgies 
 on the dead. 
 
 " Tearing the Caffres might return, and pursue us and 
 our wagons, we turned from our right path, and wan- 
 dered a long way out of our road. We wanted water, 
 but could not find any, and when the moon rose we 
 were bound in among the mountains — lost ! — and had to 
 outspan for the night. As soon as it became light we 
 inspanned again, and by two o'clock in the day we 
 found our road, our oxen and ourselves weary enough. 
 The ' wildebeests ' had eaten up all the grass, so there 
 was none for the oxen, and tne water was so bad we 
 could not drink it. Six days the oxen had nothing but 
 bad water to exist upon, and we feared we should lose 
 them. We trekked very hard. We were now in the 
 midst of the wild beast country : hundreds of spring- 
 boks went bounding away at the sound of the crack of
 
 i/O My African Home ; or, 
 
 the whip — a beautiful sight; lions abounded, we saw 
 three lying near to where we had to pass. We went by 
 very quietly, and they did not even rise at our approach. 
 The fright I had got at the Caffre fight had so un- 
 nerved me, that I became ill for several days, and I 
 cannot remember how long it took us to reach the Vaal 
 river. The road was good, and we trekked very hard 
 indeed to get over the river, for then we felt we should 
 be in safety. The Vaal is a large, deep, swift river — 
 heavy to cross. We got over safely, however, and out- 
 spanned on the opposite side. We now entered upon 
 quite a different country. The grass was a beautiful 
 green, and signs of a nearer approach to habitation 
 began to show themselves. We passed a Dutch farm, 
 and our companion being acquainted with the owners, 
 he and his family went in and breakfasted with them. 
 These people showed us great kindness. They sent 
 out to us milk and bread, the wheat of which it was 
 made having been grown and ground by themselves. 
 
 "The Dutchman's oxen being sick, as well as two of 
 ours, the farmer kindly lent us some of his, to make the 
 remainder of the journey, and we regained our own in 
 good condition. Beyond the Vaal river is a fine country, 
 and where the farms are established, and the ground is 
 cultivated, the land is very rich and productive, requiring 
 no manure. Wheat grows abundantly; fruits to per- 
 fection — apples, figs, peaches, and apricots ; the vine 
 thrives well. The farmers make brandy from the grapes, 
 besides drying quantities for raisins ; they dry all their 
 fruits for export to the Cape, and make butter in large 
 quantities. We cross the Mooie river to arrive at the 
 Dorp, which is prettily situated in a plain or valley 
 surrounded by hills, in the manner of Maritzberg, the 
 town being laid out somewhat after the same plan ; 
 water is carried through the streets in sluices, with 
 willow-trees growing beside the clear, beautiful streams. 
 We stayed eleven months, living for the most part in a 
 tent, even through the winter, when the frost was on 
 the ground, and the streams were frozen over. 
 
 " This is a Dutch settlement, scarcely an English
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 171 
 
 family among them. Although so fine a country, we 
 did not find it healthy. Besides measles, and hooping- 
 cough, a yellow fever prevailed, which carried off many, 
 and there is a very painful complaint to which the eyes 
 are liable— a burning redness in them, so that they can- 
 not endure the light. We all suffered distressingly from 
 this, and had our eyes bound up. There are no doctors 
 among these Dutch, who prescribed for each other. I 
 thought them a lazy people, and very dirty. Many pos- 
 sess a little land and contrive to live upon it, seeming as if 
 they would never rise to anything ; but others are wealthy 
 and quite ' gentle-people,' but they do not live very 
 differently from their poorer brethren. Their servants 
 are slaves whom they have taken in war fmm the Caffres. 
 The Caffres frequently steal the cattle belonging to the 
 Dutch, and interrupt their farming operations, upon 
 which the Dutch rise in a body to punish them, and 
 carry off everything they can lay hands on — the children 
 to make slaves of, and to sell or use for themselves. I 
 have seen even Caffre babies among them ; they keep a 
 bigger Caffre to nurse and bring them up. Those 
 Caffres who are captured, when a good age, often run 
 away. 
 
 " I nearly lost my little girl in the Mooie river. 
 While playing about, she fell into a pond. In my agony 
 I was on the point of jumping into the water after her, 
 but a Caffre was before me, and rescued her when quite 
 exhausted. We gave her brandy, and rubbed her head 
 with brandy, wrapped her in shawls beside a large fire, 
 and presently she recovered. A fortnight after, my 
 second girl was born ; the Dutch were very kind to 
 me, and there were two Englishwomen who came to 
 me, the only two in the place. The Dutch nurse who 
 attended me at the first, instead of washing my poor 
 little, very little, too-soon born infant, rubbed it all over 
 with oil or grease, which made it smell so badly that I 
 could not bear it beside me ; so, as soon as her back was 
 turned, I sat up in bed and washed it as well as my 
 strength would permit, which so offended her that she 
 would not come near me again.
 
 172 My African Home; or, 
 
 "We lived exactly eleven months in this country. 
 The climate is fine ; the two winter months, June and 
 July, are very cold. But little rain fell during our stay; 
 but there are severe storms of wind which in a few hours 
 will unroof the thatch, and blow in the chimneys. 
 
 " At last we got two wagon-loads of wool to bring 
 down, and commenced our homeward journey. We 
 took the old road to return — not quite so good as the 
 other — but we were unwilling to go again over the spot 
 where we had seen and been in the midst of the C a fire 
 fight. The Vaal river was high, but we crossed it safely, 
 and when we had outspanned for the night on this side, 
 with our oxen tied fast to the wagon on account of the 
 wild beasts, a lion walked peaceably up to tne wagon, 
 looked at us, turned, and walked away. A rough, rocky 
 road led us to the Mill river which we crossed, and out- 
 spanned for the night along with a Dutch family for 
 company. They weie going in the opposite direction 
 to the Vaal river (which we had just left), with their 
 cattle and horses, to seek for a farm, having been driven 
 out of the White Mountains by the depredations of the 
 Bushmen and Caffres. An empty wagon crossed to 
 the oiher side at the same time, but the river being 
 high and dangerous, the Dutchmen feared to take across 
 the laden wagon in the evening, and so we outspanned 
 together. On the empty wagon reaching the other 
 side one of the oxen dropped dead ; the driver left it, 
 and resumed his ' trek.' During the night, by the 
 light of the moon, we could see two lions devouring the 
 dead bullock. It was a beautiful moonlight night. The 
 Dutchman was up looking after his cattle, and for fear 
 cf the lions, all the oxen were tied so close to the 
 wagon-wheel that they could not lie down, while the 
 horses were placed in the centre within, both as being 
 more valuable, and because the lion will leave an ox to 
 take a horse. His precaution, however, was in vain. A 
 fine large lion sprang into the midst of the oxen and 
 dragged a horse through. The Dutchman could not 
 shoot it, not having ammunition for his gun. We had 
 so little that we could not give it up for his protection.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 
 
 / 3 
 
 It was provided by our employers for the use of their 
 wagons, for our own protection, and for finding us food ; 
 we knew not how we might require it ourselves. We 
 thought we were in dangerous company, so for our own 
 safety we inspanned and left the Dutch family, and what 
 further 'befel them I don't know. A morning or two 
 after, while we were inspanning very earl)', we saw a 
 troop of lions chasing a wildebeeste When they saw 
 the white canvas of our wagons, they stopped, looked 
 for a moment, and then lay down in the grass. Pre- 
 sently they rose and recommenced their chase after the 
 wildebeeste, which had stopped when the lions stopped, 
 and stood looking round. They chased it round and 
 round the hills, but we did not stay long enough to see 
 how the pursuit ended, being only too glad to get out 
 of the neighbourhood of such dangerous company. 
 
 "We found good grass for the oxen in coming down 
 in March, and we got on very well, but were detained 
 two days on the top of the Drakensbcrg ; the wind was 
 so strong, and the rains had made the road too slippery 
 to venture. We descended the steep, rugged path we 
 had climbed up in going, the oxen slipping frequently. 
 I stayed in the wagon with my children ; the road 
 was so dirty and slipper}-, it is not always safe to do so. 
 I heard of one wagon which rolled over and over, 
 breaking a whole load of crockery-ware to the value of 
 more than fifty pounds. 
 
 " We had no more adventures on our return. We were 
 detained three days at the Clip river by the swollen 
 state of its waters, and the same at the Tugela, which 
 we crossed while the waters came above the bed-board 
 in the wagon ! The roads were very heavy and rough ; 
 but our troubles were past, and we were thankful to fine! 
 ourselves once more safe and sound in Durban." 
 
 Such was my servant's account of a "trader's" life. 
 She told me she never felt safe while living- among the 
 Dutch, for she feared the Caffres might get the better of 
 them. Several times they were out under the " com- 
 mando " watching the movements of the Caffres, and 
 they rather anticipated a skirmish when she left, but
 
 174 ^ Iv African Home; or, 
 
 that did not take place. She tells me the Dutch know 
 every cover of the Caffre, and never fight openly or 
 fairly. Their plan is to surround the CafTres in the 
 night as they sleep, and fire upon them, and then to 
 retreat to reload their guns. They call the English 
 hard-hearted, for they say that if they see a comrade 
 dead they take no notice and go on with the fray; but 
 that, if the Dutch see two or three dead, they leave off 
 directly. Their mode of fighting may be the most 
 successful, and knowing the Caffres are only waiting a 
 good opportunity for a like inroad, perhaps it is ex- 
 cusable, but it sounds cruel.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 175 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 I FOUND my new woman-servant a great comfort to me 
 for a time, as I had a severe illness, which tied me to 
 the house, and for some time to the sofa. Still, it was 
 a trial to be at the mercy of my servant, and to see how 
 much less neat and clean everything became, and how 
 carelessly the plates, knives, and forks were washed. 
 The waste in the kitchen, too, was much greater, while 
 the appearance at table was not improved ; but it had 
 to be put up with, and I had to feel thankful that my 
 illness did not happen while I had no servant at all. 
 
 While still very unequal to exertion, my name was 
 entered as one of the lady patronesses of the Royal 
 Durban Rangers' ball, which the gentlemen of that 
 body decided to give after they were fairly organized 
 as a corps for the protection of her Majesty's subjects in 
 case of need. They were called out by their colonel, 
 the Lieutenant-Governor, tor a week of hard drill, and a 
 review was to be held at the end of that time. The 
 bugle sounded for assembly at five o'clock every morn- 
 ing, and as my husband could not possibly ride in and 
 out each time, it was decided that we should go to 
 Durban for the week, and occupy one room of our old 
 house there, and board in a manner with its occupants, 
 who, for services rendered, had lived in it rent free for 
 two years. I thought I must remain at home, I was 
 still so weak and footless ; but so many kind messages 
 came that I gave in, and it was hoped that a week's 
 change would be of service to me. So I packed up my 
 clothes and set off on steady old Fox, my husband 
 having sent word we should be in at ten or eleven
 
 176 My African Home; ok, 
 
 o'clock on Saturday morning (about the first week in 
 October, 1854). At eight o'clock that morning we got 
 a message from the occupants, hoping that we should 
 not come before four or five, " as they could not sooner 
 be ready " for us. Our plans, however, were made, and 
 1 said I could sit on Mrs. TVs sofa till the bedroom, 
 which we had furnished, should be quite ready. We 
 had borrowed a bedstead and sent a mattress, and we 
 had a storeroom of useful articles locked up in the 
 house. We sent in the cart with sundry trifles, meaning 
 to be content with very little. Imagine our amaze- 
 ment on arriving at eleven to find the house utterly 
 empty, with a Caffre sweeping out the dirt and rubbish ! 
 The tenants flown, and not one word of message nor 
 one comfort left in any shape ! Fancy if I had waited 
 till four or five o'clock (it gets dark soon after six) and 
 had gone in then, with my helpless legs, expecting 
 dinner and a bed, and had found the house empty, what 
 should we have done ? As it was my husband got out 
 two chairs from our storeroom and put me on them, 
 while he sent the cart straight back for Mrs. Orchard, a 
 table, a pan or two, some wood, another mattress, and as 
 few necessaries as possible. He then went into the town 
 to buy beef, a kettle, and a few sundries, and meeting our 
 old farm-servant, Smith, he told him our situation. Had 
 the people only said they could not wait on us, Mrs. Smith 
 was ready to come. Smith came and asked me what 
 he could do to help, so I got him to pull out two boxes 
 and a tall basket, and we set them in one room as table 
 and washstand. He re-swept the house, and then left 
 me. We brought out all our chairs, and with the aid 
 of towels on the boxes, the room looked tolerably 
 comfortable before the purchases, carried by Caffres, 
 arrived. By this time it was three o'clock and I was 
 hungry ; so, as the bread had been forgotten, off my 
 husband set again, and soon returned with a couple 
 of loaves under his arm, and opening a box of sardines 
 and a bottle of porter from the storeroom cupboard, we 
 made ourselves comfortable, and laughed at the very 
 colonial trick that had been played us. I thought of
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 177 
 
 Mrs. Nickleby in the empty house in London, so well 
 described by Dickens. 
 
 At half-past five the cart returned with Mrs. Orchard 
 and her baby. She left the other child at its grand- 
 mother's on the way, and we presently got some dinner ; 
 and, barring the opening scene, we were better without 
 the T.'s in the house. They left the place in a shame- 
 ful state, and we never heard or saw more of them. 
 
 I felt the week in the bay rather dull on the whole, 
 and was not sorry to go home to bush-life again. With 
 the help of my husband's arm and patience, I contrived 
 to walk to church on Sunday. A few people called 
 upon me in my fine house, and I received them in a 
 handsome new dark silk dress. I looked at the bare 
 walls and floors, the wooden table in the midst with- 
 out cover, and thought "what does it signify?" We 
 made our bedroom very comfortable, and Mrs. Orchard 
 did all the domestic work willingly and well. Many of 
 the military and Maritzberg gentry came down for the 
 ball, to do all honour to the Royal Durban Rangers. 
 The colonel of the 45th Regiment sent his band to 
 charm our feet as well as our ears ; and such was the 
 competition among the musicians that Colonel Cooper 
 said they might all go, or nearly so, and we had a bril- 
 liant display with orchestra of near thirty performers. 
 The ball was held in a very large store, lent for the 
 occasion — the supper, a standing one, in an adjoining 
 store, decorated with evergreens and the graceful palm- 
 leaf and flags. The ladies were many of them well 
 and becomingly dressed. There were scarcely partners 
 enough foi* all the gentlemen, and I told some of the 
 married men that it was not right for them to go round 
 the room and engage the young ladies for the whole 
 night, without giving the strangers and bachelois a 
 chnnce. 
 
 They could have found more ladies for the ball, but I 
 must let you into the secret. Some of the Durban ladies 
 took it into their heads that, as the corps consists of 
 various degrees, from gentlemen downwards, the invi- 
 tations would be very wide, and a few of those who were 
 
 N
 
 178 My African Home; or, 
 
 not quite sure of their standing, but wished to be tiptop, 
 had the imprudence to give expression to their fears ; 
 one even said " she would not go, because there would 
 be so many low people/' The corps took fire at this, 
 and in order to make the visitors select and all right, a 
 committee of invitation was formed, and the guests were 
 voted for or rejected. I was told in the ball-room (for I 
 knew nothing of what had been going on) that some 
 of the rejected ladies could have " bitten their fingers 
 with vexation." The names of the lady patronesses 
 should have been guarantee for any little Mrs. Grundy 
 among them, who was cleaning her uncle's windows a 
 short time ago before she married. 
 
 As a matron I wore my black velvet dress and gorgeous 
 India shawl, and my cherry head-dress, as beautiful as 
 ever, with the lace lappets at the back. Mrs. Milner 
 never looked so well as in a new dark flounced silk (from 
 the Cape, I imagine), which suited her figure exactly. 
 I said to her, " Your dress is very pretty." She whispered 
 back, " I can more than return the compliment." So 
 as my indulgent husband thought me, I do believe, far 
 away the best-dressed and best-looking lady present 
 (which was all right), I satisfy myself that the old velvet 
 did its duty well. I sewed in a full frill of lace round 
 the neck, which helped to hide my bones. Mrs. Mellor 
 wore a beautiful figured pink satin. I should add that 
 only the heads of departments were invited beyond the 
 corps and their families. There were a good many 
 magistrates and ladies from various departments. Mr. 
 and Mrs. Fynn from the Uncomaas I saw there, the 
 pleasant couple who chanced to be at our house the night 
 I was taken ill. I walked through the two first quadrilles 
 by way of beginning, the colonel and the captain vis-a- 
 vis with Mrs. Milner and myself. Her husband was 
 chosen first lieutenant of the corps from his well-known 
 skill in field sports. 
 
 The day of the ball the colonel, i.e. the Lieutenant- 
 Governor, reviewed the corps. Everybody went, of 
 course. I did not think of going, for my husband was 
 using old Fox. However, two kind gentlemen insisted,
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 179 
 
 the one (Captain-Proudfoot) on sending a steady pony, 
 and the other (Dr. Kelly) on escorting me. So I went, 
 and was all the better for the little ride. The gentlemen 
 went through their exercises beautifully. 
 
 Mr. Arthur Eastwood came down from his farm for 
 the gaieties, and joined us on the course ; Dr. Cunning- 
 hame also, and a good many more. In order to make a 
 little amusement for the many visitors, the Rangers got 
 up some races among themselves, and my husband at 
 the last moment entered old Fox for a hurdle race. He 
 had never leapt him before. The spirit of the day was 
 upon him, and much as I dread a hurdle race, there was 
 no use opposing, so having been assured that the hurdles 
 would be made so that those who could not go over 
 should go through, I put a good face on the matter, and 
 actually helped to make a jockey of my husband, 
 abusing and laughing at him all the time. I sewed a 
 pair of red sleeves into one of his white jean jackets, and 
 helped to tie a red sash round his waist, and let him 
 have his day of play without let or hindrance. He got 
 a tumble on the sand, but no hurt fortunately, and old 
 Fox might have won the race but for the last hurdle, 
 which he refused altogether. As Leyland is no race- 
 goer, I have no fears for further such adventures, but the 
 exercise of that week laid him up for some days. The 
 spirit got the better of the body, and while it lasted could 
 not take it in moderation. 
 
 We contrived to entertain several gentlemen at dinner 
 while in the bay, chiefly strangers come down for the 
 week. Dr. Kelly was a good deal with us. He is 
 magistrate in a very lonely district, and says his wife 
 would like much to go to England again. Mr. Collins 
 dined with us the last Sunday we were in town, and just 
 as we were preparing for dinner Mr. Miller, from 
 Isipingo, came to the door, and said, " I say, Feilden, 
 can you give me a dinner, for I've got none ? " So 
 Leyland came in laughing to tell me of the request. We 
 were very well off, luckily, having a leg of roasted pork. 
 When I joked him about the lady in whose house he 
 was visiting having turned him out, he told us they were 
 
 N 2
 
 i So My African Home; or, 
 
 all gone to a christening, and he had told them he 
 should forage for himself. 
 
 I cannot say that every one at the ball was tiptop, 
 for my husband laid his scarlet fez down on a seat for 
 a few minutes, and it entirely disapp^red. He has 
 advertised for it as lost, but it looks a little worse than 
 that. He will probably get it back, as it is easily 
 identified. Leyland is much vexed at the loss. He 
 treasured it at home, and whenever he felt poorlyish or 
 toothachy he would ask me to get " Mary's cap " for 
 him. He never put it on without an air of satisfaction, 
 and I really think it did him more good than another 
 would have done. 
 
 How lovely our ride into Durban was. The bush-path 
 was more than usually beautiful with its fresh foliage, 
 and light and shade ; but the crowning beauty was the 
 great tall shrubs laden with clustering white bells that 
 scented the air deliciously. A few days of storm followed, 
 and on our return home not a white bell was to be seen. 
 The name of this glorious shrub I have since learned is 
 gardenia. Our papaw trees are a perfect show this year, 
 the stems are clustered round with fruit as large as one's 
 head, while these again are sheltered by a grand 
 umbrella of handsome leaves. I find very few people 
 like the papaw fruit, while some prefer it to pine-apple. 
 You can eat more of it without receiving any harm. 
 Leyland will cut one in two, place one half on my plate, 
 the other on his own ; with sugar, and with the squeeze 
 of a lime or lemon they are very refreshing and pleasant. 
 We often divide one between us in a forenoon for 
 luncheon. Occasionally we enjoy a basin full of cocoa, 
 or of home-grown and made arrowroot. Milk is so 
 scarce that we have learned to drink coffee and tea 
 without, and begin rather to prefer it so ! 
 
 We are busy watching and feeding silkworms. The 
 mulberry tree thrives well, and those planted last year 
 are growing nicely. Leyland had some silkworm eggs 
 given him which keep coming into worms, and now 
 several are spinning. It is a pastime just now, but they 
 require constant attention to supply with fresh leaves. I
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 181 
 
 should be inclined to try the worms on the trees and let 
 them cater for themselves, but I suppose that will not 
 do. 
 
 October 20th. — We have very changeable weather 
 just now, one day burning" hot with a cool wind, the next 
 a pouring wet, cold, disagreeable day, dismal without 
 and within, yet making the trees from the window look- 
 most beautiful in their fresh green leaves. To-day is 
 such a day of rain and cold, and we enjoy a good fire in 
 Margaret's grate. My husband, with the Caffres, is 
 making arrowroot under the verandah, and now he is 
 washing what has been grated in the house. We hoped 
 to have had enough to send to our two dear mothers a 
 good canister full each, by way of first-fruits ; but, just 
 when the root became ripe, the Caffres deserted to their 
 craals, and we could get no help, so the roots began to 
 sprout and my husband has had to plant them all out 
 again, for so much the larger quantity next year we 
 shall hope. He saved a large basket full for home use, 
 which is what he is now making. Mr. Miller told mc he 
 had made three tons this year from three acres ! I think- 
 there must have been more acres. 
 
 Mr. Miller has been better situated for Caffres than 
 we, but now we have got six Zulu refugees bound for 
 three years, so we hope to be better off in working 
 times. This farm would soon pay if the wild animals 
 would leave us alone, but the very beauty of the place 
 is its bane : the bush hides so many beasts. 
 
 A. K. used to have a sort of fever to try colonial 
 life. If what I have told him at various times has not 
 cooled his ardour, what would he say to coming to visit 
 us, and learn for himself what a colonial life is in practice ? 
 Young men often like it well, but I doubt if it would 
 suit A. He has been brought up too comfortably, and 
 is so particular about little nicenesses and cleanlinesses. 
 These are utterly disregarded here. Many young men 
 go so far as to despise the use of sheets, and roll them- 
 selves in a kaross or blanket on the floor or bed, as it 
 may chance, and live in anything but comfort. While 
 we were in the bay lately, a gentleman coming to us
 
 182 My African Home; or, 
 
 from bachelor's apartments, described their manner of 
 living as "piggish," and was glad to come and take his 
 dinner with us. Now if A. were bent on trying a colony 
 (I do not say I advise it) he might, by coming to us as 
 a visitor, get a good insight into the life and company he 
 would have to deal with, and at the same time, by 
 resolving to be only a looker-on, he would escape the 
 many snares and pitfalls that are laid in the path of all 
 unwary beginners, and he would have our experience of 
 the many tricks which are played with equal vigour and 
 zest in Australia, or by brother Jonathan, or here in 
 Natal. Men who live by their wits grow very cunning 
 to take in the new comer ; and he gets entangled in a 
 net, that only twists him in the tighter the more he tries 
 to get out. By coming as a visitor he would see the 
 resources of a colony, and what the chance of making 
 money {and its cost !) without having to tie himself down 
 for life. If we were beginning now, and could undo 
 what our inexperience set afloat (aided by sharpers), we 
 could live both very pleasantly and comfortably, though 
 the manner of life requires a suitable style of character. 
 I do not dislike the life when I am well, but there are. 
 sundry difficulties in providing for a house, which make 
 it fall rather hard upon the lady, if she would have her 
 house comfortably provided and clean. If I were as 
 strong and active as I was till lately, I would just as 
 soon manage for myself with Caffres and Alec Smith, 
 and be without a female servant at all. I should have 
 my house and furniture a great deal nicer and cleaner, 
 as I find was the case ; but we are obliged to submit 
 with a good grace, or we should soon be left to manage 
 for ourselves. And oh ! that Caffre is not easy to teach ; 
 you must stand, and watch, and show, and insist. A 
 white servant will not be at the trouble, and so plates 
 are badly washed, pans left dirts', kitchen in a mess, our 
 boots uncleaned, and all because the mistress is not on 
 the spot to see for herself that things are done. Men 
 have more need of wives in a place like this, a young 
 untutored colony, than in civilized England. One 
 thing or other has given Natal a bad name, and instead
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 183 
 
 of it rising rapidly, immigrants have almost ceased, and 
 the golden land of Australia has seduced many away, 
 who, we are told, would gladly come back if they could. 
 Thus it will be some time before the resources of Natal 
 can develop themselves. Coal of good quality is found 
 in the country, and Dr. Kelly, a geologist, thinks that 
 and sugar will save the colony ; but before coal can be 
 made available, roads must be made to bring it to the 
 port, and the British Government must become aware 
 of the greater advantage of Natal as a coaling and 
 calling station over the Cape. 
 
 I imagine that before the Bay of Durban can be 
 made really useful for ships of large size, the entrance 
 must be considerably deeper over the bar. That is 
 constantly improving by the works that are carried out 
 on a small scale ; but, owing to the great poverty of the 
 funds, the progress is slow. If coal should be thought 
 worth working for the steam communication with India, 
 the bar would very soon be improved, and Natal is 
 said to be equally convenient with the Cape as a port, 
 as it does not take vessels more out of their track. 
 This would soon make Natal rise in the scale of 
 colonies ; meantime it is plodding its way on to notice 
 otherwise. My husband has sixty acres planted with 
 sugar-cane. The little sugar that has as yet been 
 manufactured in Natal is of superior quality, and it 
 is thought would obtain a preferent market. Mr. 
 Morewood's sugar was the first that was made. 
 
 November 6th. — Letters from home to-day have set 
 my head in a whirl, awakening such a host of reminis- 
 cences that I have not time even to zvonder if my 
 husband will return to-night. He has been absent 
 a whole week to-day, and they tell me I must not 
 expect him home till Wednesday at sunset (this is 
 Monday), for Mr. Miller met him with his face towards 
 the Tugela river, in company with two other gentle- 
 men, and he thinks he will have been led on with them 
 to Mr. Walmsley's station on the Nonoti, in search of 
 Caffres and mealies to feed them with. He set out to 
 go to the Tongaat, but I suppose has not been success-
 
 1 8.i My African Home ; or, 
 
 ful there in his search, and has gone on. There is the 
 mischief in a country like this ! No telegraphs, no 
 roads, and one's husband may be drowned in crossing a 
 river, lost, or half starved, or thrown from his horse and 
 killed. In short, if I were of a fidgety disposition there 
 would be no end to my excitements and troubles. But 
 while I never can resist the fear and thoughts of the 
 chance of an accident, I quietly go on eating, sleeping, 
 working, and resting, and he a/ways turns up again. 
 When I am kept long expecting, a song in the Freischutz 
 to that effect goes on humming continually in my head. 
 Except a night and a day of terrific thunderstorm, my 
 husband has had fine weather for his journey, and 
 brilliant moonlight. 
 
 I must tell you how a man equips himself for such 
 a journey : a rough coat, not too heavy, breeches and 
 long boots up the leg, spurs, and whip ; a lucifer- 
 match box, and a few shillings in his pocket, and a 
 cigar in his mouth. If he gets drenched and mudded, 
 and arrives at any decent quarters, he borrows a pair 
 of socks, trousers, and a clean shirt, and either leaves 
 his own, or gets them dried or washed as he can, and 
 that serves him. No portmanteau, no purse, not even 
 a clean pair of socks in his pocket ! He must ride as 
 light as possible. Mr. Miller borrowed from Leyland 
 when here some time ago. I sent his things to the 
 wash, and when I saw him in Durban, at the time of the 
 ball, I told him he should have his own back when he 
 brought my husband's, not before! He brought them 
 himself the very next morning. 
 
 I have been obliged to work a little more myself 
 lately. It has been lucky Leyland was away. The 
 very day he set out, at five a.m., my servant, Mrs. 
 Orchard, became ill, really ill, and as Alec was required 
 .at the plough, I was glad to have as little done in the 
 way of cooking or cleaning as possible. The Caffre 
 cleans knives and pans, but requires directing ; and just 
 picture my horror on finding he had discovered how bright 
 he could make the knives on the knife board, and had tried 
 the same process on some of our plated forks ! We (i.e.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 185 
 
 Alec and myself) dined off cold beef for a week, boiling 
 a little rice, or sweet potatoes, or French beans. I got 
 arrowroot at any time, and took or sent some up to the 
 cottage for poor Mrs. Orchard, who was not able to do 
 a thing for herself for a week. She crawled down here 
 to-day, and will soon be well, I hope. She has had a 
 serious illness, attended with fever and an inflamed 
 breast. I recollected Rachel's receipt of the cabbage 
 leaf, which I got for her, and she found it very efficacious. 
 She has a little sister who looks after the children ; 
 they are nice children, and so are Mrs. Galliers' two. 
 Little Billy Galliers comes to me to say his letters every 
 day. I tried him six months ago, but he was too young. 
 However, it has done him good, for he is now learning 
 amazingly fast. He is four and a half years, and can 
 already say all his letters. To-day he began with words 
 of two letters, some of which his ear caught aright with- 
 out my telling its name : " go " was one. Little Emily 
 Orchard is a funny child and amuses me. When I don't 
 want her, I take no notice of her, and she soon runs 
 away ; she thinks everything "so beautiful " here,
 
 186 My African Home; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 November 6th. — I have ridden to Mrs. Bowen's to- 
 day, and found my old friend an dcsespoir at receiving 
 only three John Bull newspapers and no letters by this 
 mail. I soon cheered her up, and after chatting awhile 
 rode back again with a bunch of mulberry leaves for the 
 silkworms, and a few mulberries for myself. There are 
 about 400 worms, and they eat, eat, all day long. About 
 100 have now spun their cocoons. It is a hobby. Our 
 trees are very young, and Mrs. Bowen helped us with 
 leaves, giving our trees a few hours' rest every now and 
 then. 
 
 I think this will be the place to introduce another of 
 my old friend's notes, written after one of my rides to 
 her cottage lately. 
 
 " My dear Friend, — 
 
 " I was very anxious to hear how you bore the ride 
 yesterday, and that you reached home before the in- 
 creasing gales made it disagreeable. That little glimpse 
 of your dear face only made me wish for a longer visit, 
 yet I was thankful for that, all things considered. I 
 need not tell you how the wind became more and more 
 unmanageable, nor describe the sea-like motion of my 
 poor cottage ! It was an awful night, and I heard the 
 voice as it hooted, or skried, or grumbled around me, 
 and felt quite sure it was not all talk ; but I was not 
 afraid. The Lord does and will protect me, as well as 
 provide for me ! No evil thing can go beyond His 
 appointment, not so much even as a cane or a rush. 
 I do not say that we shall not suffer from them, nor 
 that we are forbid to think them trials, ofttimes hard to
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 187 
 
 be borne ; but they do not spring from the ground — 
 'tis the hand of a reconciled God and Father, and all 
 will be for our ultimate good. 
 
 '■ You will, I know, wish for a little egotism, so I will 
 indulge that very natural propensity and tell you that ' I 
 am not Stephano but a Cramp.' My poor old bones are on 
 the rack. I was compelled more than once last night to 
 get out of bed to induce my stiff and crumpled-up legs 
 to return to a more comfortable and straightforward 
 shape ; and this morning I found such an accumulation 
 of dust and sand on all about me — self included — that 
 more water was needful, and more exertion necessary 
 than was at all suited to my weakness. I did venture 
 out after breakfast to see with my own eyes what havoc 
 might be the result of all this turmoil, and was most 
 thankful to find it less than I expected ; but the wind 
 was too strong for me, and nearly prostrated me once 
 or twice, so I was obliged to come in again. I am 
 always better for the fresh air, and the sun does invite 
 me this morning, but what must be done when you 
 can't stand ? 
 
 " I am tempted to send you a few carrots and mul- 
 berries ; the last, indeed, are pitiable, being the gift of 
 the wind, who refuses to allow them to remain till ripe. 
 You thought my rice-pudding eatable, and therefore, 
 having a little milk, I venture to send you one. I have 
 a fire in my stove to-day, for the first time for fourteen 
 days ; weather saying no, no ! Floyd has just been 
 to say the pudding is ready, so I must not let it get 
 cold, and you will receive it at your midday meal. I 
 pray for you, my dear friend, for I have learned to 
 love you, and I beg you to feel that I am yours af- 
 fectionately, " MlLESINA BOWEN." 
 
 In a previous note, alluding to outward storms, she 
 followed up by hoping she had bid adieu to storms of 
 temper for a long time. Poor old lady ! she bewails 
 her temperament, but cannot yield. I believe she must 
 battle on to the end, though she told me to-day she 
 does not fret now as she used to do, and that she used 
 to be very fidgety. I can well believe it. She was
 
 iS8 My African Home ; or, 
 
 speaking of the comfort the Psalms of David have been 
 to her ; and, though she has read some of them almost 
 daily for sixty years, they ever come afresh with fuller 
 and deeper meaning to comfort the drooping heart. 
 David's whole career is so romantic, stirring, and in- 
 structive, that I am astonished it is not more generally 
 searched into, instead of being read in disjointed 
 chapters. 
 
 I have only just dined, and it is past seven o'clock ! 
 Why so late ? Convenience, I reply, and it may be 
 called supper. Alec gets his dinner at twelve or one, 
 and this week he has prepared the chief of the late 
 dinner after his day's work. I tell him to come in 
 earlier, but he gets busy, and I am not yet strong 
 enough to cook for myself. To-day I had soup, cold 
 beef, rice, fried banana, and a cold papaw tart — rather 
 tasteless for want of some lemon syrup, which has come 
 to an end. Alec waits, in a way, with often a dirty face, 
 which has had many a rub from his hand during the hot 
 sunny hours of labour. Just now he is writing his copy 
 beside me. 
 
 My English friends think me very courageous to 
 sleep in the house alone, but I do feel Alec a protection, 
 though I know he would sleep through any and every- 
 thing. The other morning I was awakened with a 
 tremendous rapping, as I thought, at my door. Sup- 
 posing it to be my husband's whip-handle, I jumped up 
 and called, "Wait a bit, I'll come in a moment;" but 
 seeing no one through the window, I concluded Orchard 
 must have come to beg I would go to his wife, while he 
 should go for the doctor (her pulse had been very high 
 for two days). I donned my dressing-gown and slip- 
 pers, went out, and looked everywhere about, but all 
 was quiet, and Alec sound asleep in his bed upstairs. 
 I persuaded myself it was a dream. After breakfast I 
 sent Alec to look if a tiger couid have sprung over 
 some boards outside at my bed-head and knocked some- 
 thing down ; but no, all was right there. Presently he 
 came to me, saying he had be.n searching through the 
 attic-room, and that the cat had upset a pjate of arrow-
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 1S9 
 
 root, which had fallen on the floor above my head. The 
 plate was not broken, but must have vibrated in falling, 
 and made the noise, which I heard more vividly in 
 sleep than I should have done awake. 
 
 I have been drying arrowroot during my husband's 
 absence — that which he made. The weather was then 
 unfavourable for the drying process ; it goes out in the 
 hot sun on clean cloths. Wind blows dust and sand into 
 it, rain or damp of course wets it, so a warm, mild day 
 has to be chosen, and we half feared its moulding or 
 turning sour before a right day should come. We shall 
 have plenty for home consumption this year, but none 
 to sell or send home, owing to those tiresome Caffres 
 leaving work- I have also been trying to dry bananas ; 
 and what with feeding and tending the silkworms, and 
 my sewing and reading, I have plenty of occupation for 
 the day and never think of wearying. 
 
 November gth. — My husband is home again ; he came 
 in drenched with rain, in borrowed clothes, wringing 
 the wet out of his hair on to the floor. He has been 
 quite unsuccessful in his search after both Caffres and 
 mealies ; the latter are not to be had except at such a 
 price as to forbid sending for them, the roads are so 
 bad they would kill the oxen. The nearer Caffres will 
 not sell their mealies at all, growing just sufficient for 
 their own use, and they do not care to make more money 
 than they require for their own purposes by planting to 
 sell as well as use. I suppose we shall have to feed our 
 Games on rice at four times the cost of mealies when 
 we came to the colony two years ago. My husband 
 was nearly starved on his journey. One day all he had 
 to eat was a handful of mealies out of the Caff re pot. 
 Mr. White and Mr. McLean fared the same. Mr. 
 Grout, the American missionary, was very kind and 
 hospitable, and so was Mr. Tarbottle, with his six or 
 seven children ill with measles, and only two rooms in 
 his house ! A gentleman who has been most hospitably 
 and kindly received in our house gave him a most extra- 
 ordinary reception, and offered hi 11 nothing to eat. 
 My husband came home very tired with his long ride
 
 190 My African Home ; or, 
 
 and meagre fare, but says the little " out " has done him 
 good. 
 
 December gth. — The Royal Durban Rangers have 
 been called out to aid in quelling some unruly Caffres 
 who have been stealing their neighbours' cattle from 
 everywhere around them, and who refuse to pay the 
 hut tax. No man's cattle are safe from their depre- 
 dations, so that dark and light are willing to join the 
 Governor in repelling and punishing them. The Go- 
 vernor is on the spot already with what few troops he 
 had at hand, and the Rangers set out on their hundred 
 miles' ride immediately. I feel a little bit like a soldier's 
 wife when the husband sets off to the wars, for what 
 may not happen in a wild country like this ? The scene 
 of the disturbance is on the Uncomas. 
 
 December 2yd. — I have got my husband home 
 again, sound in limb though tired in body, after having 
 been eighteen hours in the saddle yesterday, riding all 
 the way from Richmond. While trying to sleep, the 
 barricades against my bedroom door (which I had not 
 locked) fell with a loud noise. "Who's there?" I 
 called, jumping out of bed hastily, as I saw a dark 
 shadow about the handle of the door. " Is that you, 
 Leyland ? " and in a moment more I felt the sleeve of 
 his rough coat. The rebel chief, Dushani, has wisely 
 yielded and sent in 11,000 head of cattle, so the Go- 
 vernor's party are returning. My husband and Mr. 
 Proudfoot have outridden the rest. They crossed the 
 Uncomas on a raft of bullocks' hides of their own con- 
 triving. The boat that was sent for their crossing, and 
 my note with it, had not arrived when they left, and the 
 river was greatly swollen, carrying away the first raft 
 they made. The sun's power has been very great ; one 
 gentleman or more has had a sunstroke, and my hus- 
 band has not wholly escaped. Mr. Fell had a fall, in 
 which he narrowly escaped a more serious injury from 
 his hunting-knife running into his ribs. The commando 
 were all bent on doing their duty, and cheerfully under- 
 went the disagreeables of sleeping on the ground the 
 whole fortnight, often under a pouring rain. My hus-
 
 Bush Life inNatal. 191 
 
 band put sticks in the ground, fastened a horse-cloth 
 over them and crept in under, thus making himself 
 tolerably comfortable, but he lived in wet clothes nearly 
 the whole time. His face is much burnt, with his nose 
 red and swollen, and the skin off from the effects of the 
 sun and air, heat and cold. He was very thankful to 
 get home, and taking hold of a sheet, asked what those 
 things were called, for he had almost forgotten them ! 
 
 December 2gt/i. — I had expected to eat my Christ- 
 mas dinner alone, though we had kept some of Lady 
 Feilden's mince-meat on purpose for that day ; and 
 knowing what a treat it would be to the little Smiths 
 to spend the day here, I wrote to ask Mrs. Smith to 
 come with them all, which she did, and believing me 
 quite alone, she brought them all over on Saturday 
 evening in the cart, a distance of eight miles, and a 
 quantity of good things to provide for so large a party 
 for a day or two, knowing she should take me by 
 surprise. She brought a fine live turkey, a couple of 
 fowls, some eggs, two loaves, &c, &c. She was greatly 
 surprised to find my husband had returned, and told me 
 that when she heard of his going on the commando, 
 she trembled so, that Orchard, who carried the news, 
 told her she was a coward, and had not half the courage 
 of Mrs. Feilden, who did not "take on so," though he 
 was her husband. I was very glad to see him safe back, 
 however. Next day afternoon, after a good rest, he 
 rode into Durban to return a borrowed hack, and bring 
 home his tired horses which he had left there, and on 
 his return he told me he had accepted an invitation for 
 me and himself for Christmas Day, which Mrs. Miller 
 had renewed on finding the Rangers home again, — her 
 husband is one of the corps. He sent his wagon and 
 team of oxen to take us to their new house near Spring- 
 field, where his mill and our sugar-canes are, so there 
 was no excuse. I put up a nice dress, and got into the 
 wagon, which my husband had stuffed with cushions 
 for me. He took his cornopaean to amuse us on our 
 road, and his shoulders formed a prop for me in the 
 heavier jolts of the vehicle. It was my first ride in a
 
 192 My African Home ; or, 
 
 wagon. The yelling of the drivers, the loud crack of 
 the whip, the bustle of constantly jumping up and down 
 and shouting, gave me a good idea of the fatigue of 
 driving a team of oxen. Often we were quite nervous 
 lest a large branch of tree in the bush-path should catch 
 the lofty, white, light cover of our conveyance and carry- 
 it clean away. But we arrived all safe, and Mr. and 
 Mrs. Miller were delighted to see us. We took a blanket 
 and sheets with us and pillows, and slept on a mattress 
 en the floor, for their furniture is still up the coast. 
 The Umgeni river has been so long swollen they cannot 
 get a wagon across, so they have only bare necessaries 
 in their house as yet. The bridge of boats was carried 
 away, and the river one day rose more than a foot an 
 hour. Our hosts were very pleasant, and we returned 
 home the day after Christmas Day, having left Mrs. 
 Smith in charge to superintend the party at home ; and 
 a merry day they had. There were Airs. Smith and 
 her family (Smith declining to leave his post in the 
 absence of all others), the Orchards and three children, 
 Orchard's brother and his wife's brother, old Gudgeon, 
 who all work on the sugar plantation, and Mrs. Galliers 
 and her two children. They cooked their dinner among 
 themselves. It consisted of beef, veal, a plum-pudding, 
 a couple of fowls, and some bacon. They were very 
 merry, singing and romping, and drinking healths in 
 our dining-room, for the day turned out wet, and when 
 they had finished they scoured the room out and left 
 everything in beautiful order. We made Mrs. Smith 
 remain a few days longer, and send home the boys to 
 take care of the house for their father and the others. 
 Poor old Gudgeon started off to return to Springfield, 
 but when half-way through the bush, he sent Alec on 
 alone, saying he should die if he went, so back he came, 
 and next day he set out to consult Dr. Holland, feeling 
 poorly after his Christmas dinner. 
 
 Since Christmas Day my husband has had rather a 
 bad fall, his horse getting his feet into some kind of 
 bog hole while galloping. He came in all besmeared 
 with black mud and his eye swollen, his cap was buried
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 193 
 
 in the bog and could not be found at all. He has felt 
 quite shaken and poorly since. There is another and 
 more serious invalid at the farm. A man in my hus- 
 band's employ got three of his ribs crushed, and has 
 come out to the country for change of air with his 
 family. I went over to see him, and found he is really 
 very much hurt. 
 
 The year 1854 did not close without another trouble. 
 The beautiful pony Mr. Kock lent me to ride remained 
 after I no longer wanted it, to eat grass. It was in fine 
 condition — fat and shining. One day it went down to 
 the valley, when a snake bit it so venomously that the 
 Caffre could scarcely get it home to our stable ; we 
 could see no mark, but could only suppose it a snake- 
 bite. My husband rode off for its owner as fast as he 
 could, and they were back in an hour and forty minutes 
 with an antidote to poison, but the pony was dead. We 
 did not know there were such poisonous snakes so near 
 us, and imagine the pony must have trodden on it in 
 the grass, and that the snake stung it in self-defence. 
 We were very much distressed, and felt the more that 
 it happened in our grounds. It is the second horse its 
 master lost within a few months, and was a great 
 beauty.
 
 194 My African Home ; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 BEFORE finishing my notes for the year 1854, I must 
 make a few extracts from the letters of my dear old 
 neighbour and friend, which became ever more friendly 
 and intimate, and were always interesting on their own 
 account, as well as for the sake of the aged writer. 
 
 " December 8tk. — My dear Mrs. Feilden, — Man is 
 born to trouble ; who dare gainsay it ? Alas ! neither of 
 us, I am sure ! I grieve for the manner of the poor pony's 
 death, and do indeed enter into your complicated feel- 
 ings about it. I return your papers with thanks. I am 
 ill, my dear friend — too ill even to read. Yesterday I 
 suffered so much that when my servant went to town 
 for absolute necessaries, I bid him call on Mrs. Galliers 
 to come and help me a little. She did not come. I 
 sat full three hours near the door on a stool, without 
 moving hand or foot, leaning against the wall with my 
 half-shut eyes ; then, by way of change, stretched my 
 feeble limbs on the sofa for another hour. George was 
 away six hours — they were the longest I have known 
 for many a year. No comfort when he did come ; yet 
 I am very glad to have him ; he tries to be here about 
 seven. I cannot lie in bed beyond half-past five, and, 
 unluckily, I have taken a dislike to coffee, which used to 
 be ready at hand — and I am half famished in the midst 
 of plenty ! Oh ! may I be forgiven for this unthankful- 
 ness ! 
 
 " Floyd left me without notice — even entirely un- 
 known and unexpectedly — but this is not the worst. I 
 told you of a man with a most sinister countenance 
 coming to me on Monday, saying Floyd had sent him 
 to come in his room, for he was going ! I had no
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 195 
 
 reason to believe this, and told the man so. When 
 Floyd returned he said he had not sent any one, and 
 had not seen any man on the road. I have too strong 
 cause to believe the man was with Floyd all night, 
 carrying away his tables, benches, and every rag belong- 
 ing to him. After breakfast he cut down three banana 
 trunks with the assistance of the Caffre, and when I sent 
 George to look for him, he was gone, leaving an empty 
 and very dirty house. I heard a noise at my window 
 on Monday night, something between a grunt and a note 
 of exultation or intimidation. I thought little about 
 it then ; but, being so unwell and feeble, and very busy 
 (I had not been in my bijou garden until this morning), 
 when passing to my storeroom, I thought I saw more 
 than I wished. Too true ! oh dear ! The pride of my 
 garden, the delight of my eyes, broken, disfigured, 
 spoiled ! My Brazilian pine almost stripped of the 
 lower branches, and shaken even to the stem. This 
 mischief cannot have been caused by winds, for the tree 
 is better sheltered than any other, and no mischief is 
 done elsewhere. It is the malice of Floyd, but not his 
 work, he is too cunning for that. My firm belief is 
 that he brought this gaol-bird for the very purpose. I 
 fancy a long residence in gaol does not improve the 
 morals. He has induced the Caffre, Jacob, to leave, 
 calling him his servant, though I paid 15^. a month. I 
 tried to persuade him to stay, for he knew a little Eng- 
 lish ; is quiet, handy, and industrious. I never liked a 
 Caffre before, but if I could have kept this one, I could 
 have got on for a short time at least. 
 
 " The mail has come in, and no letter for me ! Oh, my 
 poor heart is sick and sore, though I do struggle against 
 such faithlessness, and pray often and most fervently for 
 help. I believe the cords of my tent are being loosened, 
 and that I shall be permitted to begin my homeward, 
 upward journey ere long ! I fear, my dear friend, you 
 will wish I had buried these gloomy thoughts in my own 
 breast, and not added a sombre tinge to your medita- 
 tions. Perhaps the weather has its influence, but I 
 think not. Circumstances undoubtedly have their share, 
 
 O 2
 
 196 Mv African Home ; or, 
 
 but these will pass away like the morning dew, and if I 
 could have written more cheerfully I would. The Natal 
 paper says the steamer now expected is the last ; nothing 
 is said of future mails ! — poor Natal ! thy case is as 
 hopeless as my own ; but the tide may turn. The tide 
 of my love never turns, not even twice a year ; therefore, 
 as in duty bound, tell me everything concerning your 
 health and comfort, and all events current. 
 
 "With all that is affectionate, from yours sincerely, 
 
 " M. Bowen." 
 
 '"December i$th. — My dear Friend, — I was ex- 
 tremely sorry to be quite unable to answer your note 
 yesterday. I was indeed very ill, as I am now, and do 
 not expect to be better. I was up at five and busy till 
 eleven, when a lady came to spend the day. I have 
 only George to help ; he is willing, but slow — at least 
 to my impatient temper. I lamented the loss of the 
 pony on your account, and I can fully understand your 
 anxieties when military costume is assumed, and warlike 
 movements are commenced. Yet from all I can hear or 
 read of it, there is indeed a probability that there will be 
 ' more fun than fighting,' as your husband says. God 
 grant it ! Nevertheless, the times are not in our hands, 
 and we can only cast our anchor on the Rock of Ages. 
 
 " I thank you for the sympathy expressed about my 
 Brazilian beauty, but I have to tell a sorer trial! My 
 two pretty little kittens, about two months old, of course 
 were very amusing ; but the mother thought it her duty 
 to show them the world, and was always on the watch 
 to tempt them away from my parlour (their sole domi- 
 cile). From my being engaged she succeeded yester- 
 day, and took them out of sight. I sent George with 
 my visitor to see her safe home, and when they were 
 starting, I asked him to catch my kittens, and bring them 
 to me. He said he could not find them then, but had 
 seen one playing round the house a few minutes before. 
 This could not have been true. As soon as they were 
 gone, I shouted ' Kitty, Kitty ! ' a cry they had just 
 learned to know was good for them. The old cat came 
 and looked at me, then went to the garden and came
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 197 
 
 back to me, — in short, all but spoke. I was excited by 
 her unusual manner. I unlocked the gate, went to the 
 top of the garden, and there saw my favourite Kitty in 
 the coil of a young boa-constrictor ! not a small one, for 
 the middle was thicker than any part of my arm, and 
 very beautiful ; but all I could see of my pet was the 
 head, which seemed to me to be a little flattened, and 
 the two fore-feet moving and struggling. The old cat 
 stood by my side, watching the awful creature ; but he 
 took no notice of us — he was busy with his prey. I felt 
 so sick and stupefied that a few minutes passed before I 
 thought of waving my white flag — a signal agreed upon 
 by the family at Prospect when I wanted help. I rung 
 my bell, and raised a ' Swiss maiden's ' shout in vain. I 
 was sure George could not be far off, and might return 
 to fire my pistol ; but I find this morning that they met 
 the Caffre who was sent for the lady visitor at the foot of 
 the hill, and George followed his own devices. I con- 
 tinued waving my flag for an hour. It was not seen, I 
 suppose, for no help came to me. I sat up till ten last 
 night writing, could not quite finish, so got up again 
 at five and concluded a long letter to Carmarthen to be 
 ready for the mail. Believe all that is kind and tenderly 
 affectionate fills my forlorn heart towards you, my dear, 
 kind friend.— M. B." 
 
 As these letters show what a lady verging upon four- 
 score years, of a refined and highly cultivated mind, may 
 be called to go through in a colony, I shall copy a few 
 more. 
 
 "■December lyth. — My dear Friend, — Please not 
 to blame me for my long silence, for indeed it is a most 
 unwilling fault. I have no one to send. I have not seen 
 Mrs. Galliers since her very brief and ill-timed visit on 
 Tuesday. On Thursday morning a little parcel was 
 brought to me from Prospect requesting my assistance 
 to forward it to Feniscowles. It was not in my power. 
 George came on that day merely to go to town for 
 provisions, and on his return there was evidently a 
 storm fast approaching, and to avoid it he was in almost 
 too great a hurry to boil my kettle for tea (dinner I had
 
 198 My African Home ; or, 
 
 none, and wished not for any) . Although he is always 
 civil and willing, he went before five, and I have not seen 
 him since. I am indebted to the kindness of Mrs. 
 Forrest for my breakfast and tea, i.e. she sends her 
 Caffre with milk at six o'clock, and allows him to make 
 a fire and boil my kettle. I must have it at that rather 
 too early hour or not at all, as she cannot spare him later. 
 He comes again at five or six p.m. for the same purpose, 
 and this is all I can manage. I hope George will come 
 on Monday, and also poor Mrs. G. She did not bring my 
 clothes last week ; no matter, there is a greater probability 
 of her coming when I shall be in readiness. 
 
 " I congratulate you on the glorious result of the late 
 warlike movements. I presume our noble Rangers will 
 return to Durban with drums beating and flags flying, as 
 well as a proper share of the spoils. I read in the Natal 
 Mercury of last Wednesday that Dushani had sent 
 1000 head of cattle, and declared he did not wish to 
 fight. So I fancy that what Mr. Feiiden kindly said to 
 allay your fears has proved correct, viz. ' more fun than 
 fighting ;' and now I trust you will soon enjoy the 
 pleasure, comfort, and security of his society again. 
 
 " I have been pretty considerably tried lately, no doubt 
 for my ultimate good, but it is by no means pleasant for 
 the time. My poor tree ! my pretty kittens ! my run- 
 away servants ! All these are old stories, but I have a 
 little matter to add thereto. Part of the old fence of my 
 bijou garden was laid level with the ground early on 
 Friday morning, whether from the storm or the boa, I do 
 not know, but it is the same spot where I beheld him 
 feasting. Somehow I do not feel comfortable to do any- 
 thing there, until I get a little clearance and repairs 
 done, and when will that be ? My unfortunate roof 
 gives me constant evidence of what unprincipled men 
 are capable of, there is scarce a yard waterproof, and 
 again I exist in a draw-well. I must be made of parch- 
 ment to endure it, but I am not much worse than usual. 
 This I in part attribute to being obliged to work hard, 
 sweeping, dusting, making bed, and feeding poultry, all 
 very delicate employments and very intellectual, but
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 199 
 
 go~d for me for all that. As to having even a hope of 
 obtaining a good servant — alas ! alas ! 
 
 " Saturday morning a man made his appearance with 
 a bit of paper in his hand. It ran thus : ' The bearer 
 is looking for work ; I do not know him.' He strutted 
 into the parlour, and I made him go out before I would 
 take the paper or hear him — a barbarian, with paws like 
 a bear, constantly in motion ; a shirt as black as a coal, 
 and upon inquiry I found he had no other or change of 
 any kind. ' And will no one speak for you ? ' I asked. 
 ' I have been robbed of my wages and my clothes.' 
 He did not know where to go, and had no money to 
 buy food. I gave him a shilling to prevent starvation, 
 and told him if he would come decently clean on Mon- 
 day I would talk to him, but not as he was. My gentle- 
 man then seemed quite at home, asked who that house 
 belonged to, was it a large one, &c, &c. ' It does not 
 concern you,' I said sternly. ' Have you a good garden ? 
 I should like to see it/ ' You have had your answer. 
 Go now, and do not be troublesome.' But I had to show 
 him the way. This is the only offer at present. I have 
 no thought of taking him, dirty, vulgar, and idle, I 
 imagine. I am better without, bad as it is. George is 
 not to be depended on for long ; he will be wanted on 
 their farm, and he is but a poor help after all. He comes 
 at eight, once or twice at seven, and goes home at five. 
 Many hours of utter loneliness remain, and, though I do 
 not fear, it is scarcely safe. Witness my poor little 
 kittens and the boa, so very close to the house. . . . 
 Ever sincerely and affectionately yours, M. Bowen. 
 
 " PS. — Monday. — George came this morning, and 
 Mrs. Galliers is now making herself useful. I need it, 
 for I am ill, up before five and at work till ten. The air 
 is sultry ; ants, white and black, devouring without 
 mercy — my sugar-basin with a lid full of the little ones ; 
 and real centipedes, small but venomous, coming to my 
 feet. Oh ! what a country for people to live in ! Is it 
 not some excuse for writing on a Sabbath, to say that I 
 was up at half-past five, and, except a few words to the 
 Caffre at six, had not spoken a word to any one ? I read
 
 200 My African Home ; or, 
 
 for hours, sun and wind not allowing me to walk about. 
 It was a long day." 
 
 "December 22nd. — My DEAR Friend,—' There is a tide 
 in the affairs of man,' so it is said. I wish the tide of 
 mine would turn, for verily it runs all one way, and that 
 wofully rough against me. But I have often in days 
 long past strolled on some pebbly shore, and picked up 
 stones rounded and polished by the rude tossings they 
 had received, and as I recall those hours of comparative 
 enjoyment, I think it advisable to believe that all my 
 untoward and unwelcome joltings are intended to effect 
 a similar improvement, and that in due time, if I faint 
 not, I shall be so polished, moulded, and prepared as to 
 be decidedly fitter for a more exalted station. Amen. 
 You will perceive I do not attribute any merit in the 
 work to myself. Oh, no! All I feel able to do is, not 
 to struggle against it. 
 
 " Last Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, I had ample 
 time and space for meditation, being lone — lonely ! — 
 from morning till day-spring, again and again. Thurs- 
 day, George came, but was all day in town ; to-day here, 
 to-morrow in town again, more for himself than me ; but 
 he reminded me that next Monday will be Christmas 
 Day, and it would be useless to send, as I did intend. 
 Of course, he will not come Sunday or Monday, so if 
 solitude hath charms, I am quite a privileged person— 
 possibly, a trifle too much so — but, at least, I can think 
 of my friends. I can sincerely and heartily wish for 
 yourself and Mr. Feilden 'A merry Christmas and a 
 happy New Year.' I give these salutations after the 
 fashion of the good old times ; but I cannot help feeling 
 these good things are less attainable here than elsewhere, 
 even where our thoughts wander to with many a longing, 
 lingering sigh. Still, I do wish that you may enjoy all 
 that this wild world can give — and as an essential, that 
 the noble Ranger is returned, safe and well with due 
 honours, and a little booty into the bargain ; but I fear 
 ' Nunky takes all.' — Affectionately yours, 
 
 " M. Bowen."
 
 Bush Life in Natal. .201 
 
 "December 29th.— My dear Friend,— I am very glad 
 to learn that you are returned quite safe, and I hope even 
 the better for your visit, notwithstanding the roughness 
 of your vehicle and road. What would your good 
 friends in Lancashire think if they could see you thus 
 seated in all your glory -not exactly —but eminence, cer- 
 tainly ? Well, Queen Victoria would not mind roughing 
 it a little ; at least, she did not on her first visit to 
 Scotland, so we may well be satisfied. My Christmas 
 Day was such as I never passed before, and hope never 
 shall again. I was up at five, to be ready for the milk, 
 as the boy was to light my fire. At seven, young James 
 Forrest brought it, and boiled my kettle ; but was going 
 to spend the day in town, and could not come in the 
 evening. No Caffres at home, so I spent the long, long 
 day without seeing or speaking to a human being. I did 
 boil one egg, and, thanks to your kindness, had in addi- 
 tion a small bit of cheese, eating with it a slice of pine 
 and bread, by which means my mouth escaped blisters. 
 1 read a little, wrote a little, walked a little (too wet), 
 and went to bed a little before my usual hour, thinking 
 my pillow tolerable company. Is not that a merry 
 Christmas? Very unlike the party you so generously 
 treated. Poor Mrs. Galliers is not a little proud of being 
 one of the recipients ; she is waiting impatiently now. 
 The man I named arrived from Isipingo at five yester- 
 day, crossing the two rivers with difficulty and danger, 
 with his cart and six oxen. He did not stop here last 
 night, having business in town. I am now expecting 
 him, whether for good or evil I know not ; but I am not 
 over sanguine. He left me, after a service of nine weeks, 
 to commence farming ; he had been a useful servant. 
 I am tired rather, and low, and hurried, so excuse me. 
 Much love from yours sincerely, 
 
 " M. BOWEN."
 
 202 My African Home; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 1855. — My husband's fall, added to all the exertions 
 and hardships endured under the commando, proved 
 more serious than we at first anticipated. Six weeks 
 was he laid up, and so ill that I began to fear for his 
 life. We feared low fever, for he had all the premonitory- 
 symptoms, and could scarcely crawl to the sofa for some 
 time. A gentleman who called to see him said he looked 
 ten years older in that short time. The worst of it was 
 that I got a serious, though short, illness myself, and my 
 husband would not let me try to use the feet which had 
 so little power in them, but would crawl across the room 
 to get things for me. Fortunately, Mrs. Orchard made 
 herself very useful and handy. Our friend, Mr. Kock, 
 was kind, riding out to see us. He brought some snipes 
 one day, and Mrs. Bowen sent fruits and kind words to 
 cheer us. Our doctor advised change of air and scene 
 for both of us, so my husband wrote to Richmond, to a 
 man he knew there, to see if any kind of shelter could 
 be procured for us, in which case we would make a 
 wagon journey, and stay a couple of months in that 
 country. 
 
 The poor man who was hurt, and came to the farm 
 for country air, could not rest, and he returned to Durban 
 just to die. He had been terribly crushed ; three of his 
 ribs were broken, and this was not at first discovered. 
 He could eat nothing latterly but pine-apples, which 
 were beginning to ripen in our garden plentifully, so he 
 got one every day. 
 
 On the 3rd of February my husband rode over to call 
 on our old, kind neighbour, but returned quite exhausted. 
 We read the nice books she sent to amuse our long days.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 203 
 
 Selling's "Life "was one. In writing to her, I say: 
 " I am fascinated with Stilling's ' Life.' But what a 
 different tone of living and of religion it shows between 
 the German and English characters ! What unrepressed, 
 untutored feelings the former display ! We are taught 
 in early childhood to check all sentimentalism and all 
 extremes. These children of the mountains and the 
 valleys are allowed to indulge in all the mental freaks of 
 nature. I wonder which is best? What simple but 
 pure affection they learn to show for the Saviour, while 
 we seem too full of awe for pure love. Yet I have often 
 heard German Christianity termed Rationalism, and even, 
 so far as I have read, I feel inclined to think something 
 is wanted ; but that may be the result of my bringing 
 up. I have often thought we might make religion more 
 attractive and lovable to the capacities and feelings of 
 children, and have often regretted the amount of fear 
 early instilled into a child's mind. Again, I think that 
 a greater degree of simplicity of life than the children of 
 wealthy English parents are permitted to enjoy, would 
 help to diminish the love of the world and its good 
 things, which stands like a barricade before the entrance 
 to heaven. I shall read of Stilling's feelings with caution, 
 however, because I feel their fascination in some degree. 
 But what a singular bringing up was his ! forced into 
 the thoughts of a man, while yet an infant, entire sepa- 
 ration from childhood, and communion with the ideal 
 and with nature's wonders ! When I was in the Vorarl- 
 berg, I frequently heard of the manner in which students 
 battled their way up. In travelling to and from the 
 university, over the mountains, ' Alpine stock ' in hand, 
 they begged their night's lodging, and none refused them 
 a meal. 
 
 " In the other book there is a beautiful description of 
 mountain scenery, relating to places and scenes that 
 were familiar to me years ago. They have awakened 
 many pleasant and delightful associations in my mind. 
 The home of one of my sisters lies near the country of 
 Pfeffers and the Via Mala, while that of a cousin was on 
 the. borders of the lovely Lake of Zurich. With her I
 
 204 My African Home ; or, 
 
 ascended the Rigiberg, to see the glorious sunrise light 
 up the peaks of a grand panorama of mountains ; and 
 with her I walked through a white vapoury cloud, Alpine 
 stock in hand, down the mountain side, over above the 
 lovely Lake of Lucerne ; the passes of the St. Gothard, 
 the Bernardin, and the Jura, looking down upon the 
 Lake of Geneva and the glorious array of mountain 
 scenery. One scene in the early part of the book, the 
 description of a sea of vapour, recalled vividly our descent 
 of the Apennines towards Bologna. The fevv words in 
 my journal, descriptive of that moonlight and early-dawn 
 drive, convey to my memory a lovely and wonderful 
 picture, seen only under such circumstances. ' Cheever,' 
 at page 22, describes such a scene, only he was ascending 
 through it, while we descended into it ; and I imagine 
 our view must have been the grander of the two, until he 
 ' looked down from above.' " 
 
 February 8t/i. — The awful struggle in the East is going 
 on with much loss of life, and whether the great victory 
 of the Alma will be followed up by the fall of Sebastopol 
 remains to be seen. My husband never liked our alliance 
 with infidel France and Mohammedan Turkey ; but to 
 have permitted Russia to quietly upset the "balance 
 of power" would have been wrong. "The Beast," " Ba- 
 bylon," " the Harlot," would soon raise her head. She 
 is to do so for a short time, but only to be overthrown 
 entirely. Can that time be approaching ? 
 
 "February 16th. — It seems long since we heard from 
 you, my dear Mrs. Bowen, but this world is so full of 
 business, even to the smallest of us. I have not liked 
 to get out my embroidery for fear of neglecting other 
 duties. The Ken is to sail for Mauritius between 
 Monday and Wednesday; our letters must go by her, 
 and trust to Providence for their further conveyance. 
 An overland despatch yesterday brought news of the 
 fall of Sebastopol. I trust the news is correct, for this 
 prolonged siege and war are making sad havoc with 
 brave men. What do you think of the nurses who are 
 gone or going out, Miss Florence Nightingale at their 
 head ? She had previously shown her real Christian
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 205 
 
 spirit in nursing at the Governesses' Institution, when no 
 one could be found to take the lead. But I fear for the 
 hearts of the brave men these ladies go among. Perhaps 
 the wounds there may prove more incurable than those 
 of the body ; however, these nurses were called for. 
 
 " We have been making some pine-apple jam, which 
 -has turned out well, so I send back your own bottle 
 filled with some of it. We are going up to Richmond 
 for a couple of months, as soon as we can get away." 
 
 February iqtk. — We have this day heard of a small 
 cottage up the country at Richmond, which we can 
 have for two or three months for two pounds. We shall 
 take all we may require of furniture in a wagon. The 
 house we wanted is not finished ; the man cannot get 
 C a fires to work. The same complaint everywhere ; 
 with the country swarming with able-bodied Cafffes, 
 you can hardly get one to cut your wood, and draw 
 your water. The want of labourers will ruin this 
 country. 
 
 We had an excitement lately caused by one, a very 
 good, humble (!) Caffre, anxious to do his work, and 
 apparently fund of us. Gratitude is said to be a rare 
 quality in a Caffre, but when my husband was so ill 
 poor Umbobo wanted to give him two shillings of his 
 wages ! When I fainted in my sleep one night, Urnbobo 
 was sent off as soon as daylight appeared to bring the 
 doctor. The poor fellow ran as hard as he could, 
 and the doctor soon appeared. Next morning, again, 
 Umbobo set off quite cheerily with a note to the 
 doctor to fetch medicine. We waited and waited, but 
 he never returned. At ten o'clock the doctor came, but 
 Umbobo had not been to him. What could have be- 
 come of him ? I was sure a tiger must have taken him. 
 Wild animals roam at nights and very early in the 
 mornings ; they will become uneasy at the approach 
 of a Caffre (probably owing to the smell), while they 
 show no repugnance to a white man. I saw this myself 
 in two young lions in a cage belonging to our friend, 
 Mr. Proudfoot. My husband thought that if a tiger 
 had taken Umbobo, it must have been in mistake for a
 
 206 My African Home; or, 
 
 buck as the poor fellow was springing through the bush- 
 path. My husband made preparations for having the 
 bush searched, because, as he wore a white shirt, it must 
 have caught in the bushes if he had been dragged. He 
 had also a note and stick ; but hearing that some one 
 had seen him near Durban, and that some Dutch 
 wagons were in the bay, we thought he might have 
 been re-captured by his old master. As poor Umbobo 
 had left his clothes and money here, we could come to 
 no other than one of these conclusions. Now a new 
 light has been thrown on his disappearance. When 
 Caffre Tom went to make inquiries for him, some one 
 told him that Umbobo had asked a passenger where his 
 note was directed, and was told "to the milungo 
 (gentleman) next the Trunk," and Tom says he was 
 made to believe that his master had sent him with a 
 note to get himself put into the Trunk (or prison), to 
 avoid which he had run off. This must have been done 
 by some wag, and is provoking, and an aspersion on 
 the character of the best master Umbobo ever had, and 
 will tell ill among his people. But in clearing out the 
 kitchen what should turn up, from behind a barrel, but 
 some baby clothes, marked " Grundy," which it is sup- 
 posed Umbobo had stolen off the grass, and conscience 
 had made a coward of him. What could he mean to do 
 with baby clothes ? He had not even a wife. My 
 husband took the clothes to Mrs. Grundy in Durban ; 
 she had missed them three months before. Poor 
 Umbobo was so faithful with us, that we don't like to 
 believe him the thief. We miss him much. When I 
 get strong again I shall train a Caffre to do fully better 
 than our present clever, but careless, white servant. 
 
 I am growing stronger, but I dare not exert myself 
 much yet, lest I lose my feet again. We have an amaz- 
 ing quantity of pine-apples and granadillas. The last are 
 delicious, and refreshing, on a hot day, eaten with sugar 
 and a little wine. The pine-apples were planted ex- 
 pressly to trade with the Cape, and now they are so 
 abundant, there is scarcely a vessel to take them. The 
 market in Natal is soon over-stocked, and no money is
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 207 
 
 to be got for anything. Sugar-canes are ready to sell 
 for transplanting, and no one rich enough to buy. 
 
 With regard to our being kept in Natal for ten years, 
 we do not look for it. If the sugar succeed, we mean to 
 pay our friends in England a visit, if they will have us. 
 As to crossing the ocean so often — the Jane M or ice 
 did not teach me to dread it, bad though the smells 
 occasionally were. 
 
 Smith is very anxious about the working of the sugar 
 plantation. He is a thoroughly trustworthy man, and 
 his wife is a most exemplary woman. The eldest son, 
 Alec, a strong, healthy boy of sixteen, lives with us. He 
 is steady and hard-working. Leyland takes some pains 
 to teach him for an hour every morning before our early 
 breakfast, at nights he learns his chapter when he has 
 time. H is parents are well aware of the advantages of his 
 being in such a place, and his mother wishes William, 
 the second son. to take his brother's place when his 
 year is out. All the boys are good, steady, clever lads. 
 
 The Sunday previous to starting for Richmond, my 
 husband sent a trusty messenger with the horse and 
 side-saddle to bring Mrs. Bowen to spend the day with 
 us, and to join in our Sunday readings, promising to 
 send her home in the same easy way. The next day, 
 February 19th, brought me the following characteristic 
 letter from her : — 
 
 " My dear Mrs. Feilden, — I shall long remember 
 with grateful and gratified feelings a day spent with you 
 and Mr. F. I was on the point of saying, ' unmingled 
 pleasure,' but such is not ordained for us in our pro- 
 bationary state ; doubtless it would not be for our best 
 interests. At any rate, it was my folly which caused 
 any diminution of my enjoyment, and I intend to draw 
 the curtain aside a little, that you may judge of the why 
 and wherefore. A visit to Feniscowles, when its much- 
 esteemed possessors were sufficiently restored to the 
 blessing of health to feel a visit from a poor Cumber- 
 ground no very great intrusion, had long been antici- 
 pated, but it was prevented by untoward circumstances. 
 At length I was informed of your proposed absence, and
 
 208 My African Home ; or, 
 
 at the same time most kindly invited to spend a day with 
 you, and with your wonted good feeling, making such 
 arrangements for my safe and comfortable transit, as 
 utterly precluded any hesitation if I had felt any. 
 Then I thought what a number of questions I would 
 ask about all those interesting occurrences which must 
 accompany and succeed your leaving home. My heart 
 was quite full of them ; and what did I do ? Oh, my 
 abominable click-clack tongue ! It speedily set up a 
 movement of its own, unregulated by either head or 
 heart, and went off with the speed of an electric tele- 
 graph, but failing in its utility. Will you pardon this 
 folly, my dear friend ? taking into consideration that 
 my repentance kept me awake most of the night, and 
 considerably disturbs my equanimity this morning. 
 
 " I shall think a great deal about Mr. F.'s employments 
 and enjoyments, and, I fear, annoyances also, for where 
 can you go to escape them ? Please to tell him that an 
 old woman would give a word of advice with her bless- 
 ing ; it is, to be careful to avoid a coup de sokil, not to 
 be late in the bush, or too eager after elephants' tusk/, 
 tigers' skins, or boa-constrictors— tough coats to make 
 slippers of, which the Caffres do— to be aware that 
 crocodiles dwell in and near the rivers, and live on fish, 
 when they can get nothing better ! I bethink me of 
 poor Mr. Butler and his narrqw escape with life, paying 
 for it with many wounds, and more recently Mr. Wilson's 
 horse ! As regards myself, I am pretty brave, but for 
 my friends my feelings are rather cowardly. I am 
 utterly ignorant of the way to Richmond, and all about 
 it, except that I saw a sketch, with a former servant, of a 
 dwelling and land belonging to his father within a short 
 distance of Richmond. It appeared to be a wild and 
 very hilly country. I hope you will find the change 
 beneficial, and then I shall be satisfied ; but the change 
 homeward again will please me best, on my own 
 account ! 
 
 " Will you laugh at me, if I say your friend Mr. K. 
 might find other amusement for his fingers than an ever-
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 209 
 
 lasting adjusting of his upper lip's disfigurement ? I 
 take him to be an intelligent gentleman, and I shall be 
 pleased, I have no doubt, with his acquaintance ; but it 
 is one of my unfashionable peculiarities to have rather a 
 dislike to these growing enormities, which seem to have 
 become popular, and I expect we shall have as many 
 orders of moustaches, as of monks and friars. I do not 
 object to moderate whiskers ; but what does it signify 
 what foolish fancies an old woman takes into her head ? 
 I do not expect you will read all this at once, if ever ; 
 but my pen will go, as my tongue did yesterday. I think 
 you named Shakspeare, will you like to take him with 
 you ? he is not a bad companion. I shall send a few 
 artichoke plants. With very kind regards to Mr. F., 
 and with fervent prayers for your safety, and worlds of 
 good wishes, &c, &c. " M. B." 
 
 " My dear Mrs. Bowen, — With hands trembling with 
 the heat and unusual work, I must attempt to leave 
 another ' love-token ' behind me, though nothing like 
 the one I got a few days ago. You must make allow- 
 ance for the calmness of my character, as much as you 
 ask me to make allowance for the enthusiasm of yours. 
 
 " Our pretty room you admired so much, is just like a 
 pawnbroker's shop. We have been living in a complete 
 mess since Monday morning, each day making it a little 
 worse. The wagons are to be packed to-day with 
 everything we may require during three months. They 
 were to have'started this afternoon, but it remains to be 
 seen whether they can be made ready. It is thought 
 they can make the journey in two days ; I don't know 
 what kind of place we are going to, but will try to 
 answer some of your questions, and I must write to you 
 when we get a little settled. Richmond is about fifteen 
 miles from Maritzberg ; the post goes once a week 
 through that place. I understand it is a small village 
 on the hills, with a very primitive set of people, with a 
 minister from the American Missions ; Mr. and Mrs. 
 Pigg. respectable farmers, who were in the same ship 
 with my husband on. his first visit to Natal ; also a 
 workman whom Mr. F. once employed ; but who else I 
 
 P
 
 210 My African Home; or, 
 
 do not know. We take only Caffres ; we cannot spare 
 either Alec or his brothers. We ride on horseback the 
 first day, stopping to rest at Mrs. Ashton's, and Mrs. 
 Potgieter's, if we get so far, or we sleep in the wagon 
 before quite reaching her house. We take everything we 
 shall require ; there is a ' store ' there, but Leyland 
 says, 'very little in it.' Mrs. Smith takes charge here 
 during our absence, and Mr. Kock has kindly promised 
 to ride up now and then to see that all is right. If Mr. 
 Feilden comes down to Durban (as in the event of a 
 mail he probably will) I shall be alone, but not more so 
 than I was here, Mrs. Pigg being very near. 
 
 " I gave my husband your good advice, and what will 
 you say to my impudence, but thinking it might have a 
 good effect, I gave Mr. Kock your hint, too ! He laughed, 
 and said he was obliged to nurse his moustaches to keep 
 them in order. I suspected as much, for they are very 
 harsh ; but these things are considered a great protection 
 either in cold or heat. The doctors are all in favour of hair 
 on the upper lip, saying it would save many pulmonary 
 complaints, so I fancy we must knock under, and submit 
 with a good grace. I confess I think they wear horrid 
 beards here ; a bird might build its nest in Mr. Proud- 
 foot's, and his is better kept than many. My husband 
 thought you had made a hit at his also, but the secret of 
 his is that no razor has ever touched his face, which he 
 washes as you or I would, and is saved an immensity of 
 trouble and time in dressing. Before he was married he 
 used to stain it dark brown, and it looked very nice. 
 I always had a predilection in favour of the moustache, 
 without imagining I should marry one. Thank you for 
 the offer of Shakspeare, but we will not rob you of his 
 company for so long a time ; perhaps on our return you 
 will lend the book. 
 
 " Mr. F. is taking paint to repaint his wagons, so you 
 can fancy me helping in that work. Thanking you, my 
 dear friend, and asking you to continue your prayers 
 for us, that we may never fall away, but keep our lamps 
 trimmed ready,— Believe me, yours affectionately, 
 
 "E. W. F."
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 211 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 We accomplished our journey to Richmond, but I can 
 find no record among my papers of our route, and so 
 shall extract from a letter giving a description of the 
 place and our life while there. 
 
 We packed off two wagons and twenty-four oxen, 
 ourselves and two horses, for a long gipsying excur- 
 sion, to give the whole family change of air and relaxa- 
 tion. Richmond, on the Illovo, is the nucleus of an 
 ideal town to exist some time perhaps, in a splendid 
 pasture land, where farming on a small scale has 
 answered extremely well, but where there is not wealth 
 sufficient to try it on a larger. The country is most 
 productive ; we are delighted with it, and all the 
 people seem to be primitive and neighbourly. A few 
 small farm-houses are scattered about, built by their 
 owners in great measure. After our arrival, one sent us 
 a pound of fresh butter; another, a round of beef; a 
 third, fruit, with a couple of boiled mealie cobs, which 
 we found so good that the gift has been repeated daily. 
 There is no public-house in the village, and only one 
 store with " very little in it." One ox is killed weekly 
 for sale ; beyond this, the people must trust to their 
 own resources, which accounts for a piece of beef being 
 sent to new comers. Of course, we try to make up in 
 some way for these kindnesses. 
 
 Our wagon had an open fretwork top — imagine how 
 beautiful it must have looked — hung with great bunches 
 of bananas and pine-apples ; these have made very 
 acceptable presents up here, where they do not grow so 
 well. To a Dutch farmer, who has lent us a cow for 
 our stay of three months, my husband made a present 
 
 P 2
 
 212 
 
 My African Home ; or 
 
 tft 
 
 
 
 of some gunpowder, which 
 has greatly delighted him, 
 and so on. There is an ex- 
 cellent clergyman, beloved 
 by all, with his amiable wife 
 and daughter ; and a pretty 
 little church is in process of 
 erection, but lagging for want 
 of funds. I say from my 
 heart, "Success to Richmond 
 on the Illovo." 
 
 On Sunday morning a re- 
 spectable man of the name 
 of We r called on his way 
 to church, carrying a paper 
 bag, which he begged to pre- 
 sent, containing four or five 
 bunches of cluster grapes, 
 and a dozen or two of ripe 
 figs. I am told he has a 
 beautiful garden. In the 
 afternoon a gentleman far- 
 mer sent a basket full of fine 
 ripe figs. Another man com- 
 ing out of his garden with 
 his hands full of granadil- 
 las hoped I would accept 
 them ! This man we have 
 employed to put up a few 
 shelves and pegs to make 
 our hut or cottage habitable, 
 and to contrive a shower- 
 bath room outside, that I may 
 have a bath every morning. 
 The stream of water is car- 
 ried past the garden gate, 
 constantly flowing from a 
 spring three miles distant, 
 so we are well served with 
 fresh flowing water. We 
 have a nice garden, with
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 213 
 
 plenty of potatoes, vegetable marrows, and pumpkins 
 in it. We have five rooms to our house, besides the 
 Caffre craal where we cook, and the rent for three months 
 is 2/. sterling ! I hope it won't quite break us ; but 
 now I must explain that the whole house would stand 
 in a moderate-sized drawing-room, and here I may in- 
 troduce a sketch of it taken on the spot — a very correct 
 likeness, sent to England in a letter to the Dowager 
 Lady Feilden. 
 
 The walls are barely white-washed, the floors (except 
 that of the room we live in, which is roughly flagged) 
 are of earth, hardened by some unmentionable process 
 very common in Natal, and the only ceiling above our 
 heads is the thatched roof with the wooden rafters. 
 And yet, if it were not for the fleas, which swarmed 
 when we first came, we should be very snug and com- 
 fortable. We brought stores of sugar, tea, coffee, rice, 
 &c, &c, with us, as well as our bed and sofa-chair. 
 Our dinner yesterday consisted of a haunch of venison 
 in fine order, tomato sauce, such as Mr. Pickwick would 
 have relished, potatoes, vegetable-marrow, cream cheese 
 (which I made in mistake for butter), granadillas with 
 cream, grapes, and figs ; a cup of good coffee to wash 
 all down. The country abounds in game, and there are 
 few, if any, snakes here. At a farm in the neighbour- 
 hood the walnut, chestnut, elderberry, quince, plum, and 
 pear trees are all growing, and in healthy condition. 
 
 Our great wagon is very nearly as long as our house. 
 A small shed at the end of the garden affords shelter 
 for horse and fowls, while a large tub on the roof forms 
 a shower-bath. Servants in England would hardly 
 submit to the rough floor of our sitting-room, yet when 
 those of their rank — not class, for there are few servants 
 here — come out and have their own house and garden, 
 their cow, &c, in this style, it is astonishing how much 
 they think of themselves, and how comfortably they 
 seem to live, after getting over the first two or three 
 years of hard work and wretchedness. A few of a 
 higher rank are scattered about as farmers, but the 
 children only can expect to reap the fruits of their 
 parents' toil. There is a very respectable family of
 
 214 My African Home ; or, 
 
 Arbuthnots on a farm five miles off, who came out on 
 Byrne's scheme. They entrusted their money into his 
 hands till they should arrive in Natal, and have never 
 seen more of it ! They are not singular ; they lived 
 either two or three years in Caffre huts of their own 
 erecting. Now they have built a comfortable cottage, 
 and are sending their boys to learn to read at the 
 village school. Those who came with nothing have 
 in many instances got on the most successfully. As 
 they had no property to risk, they probably fattened 
 on their less fortunate neighbours. 
 
 Although Richmond is so small a village, there is a 
 population around of 300. Some of them came out in 
 the emigrant ship which was wrecked after it had come 
 to anchor outside the bar. The 290 passengers were 
 saved, I believe, but lost everything, and underwent 
 great hardships, sleeping on the beach, and half starved. 
 One woman told me that she lost the power of taste, 
 owing to the exposure, cold, and wet she suffered then, 
 and had never recovered it. Many of these unlucky 
 emigrants are doing well now, without Mr. Byrne's aid. 
 Each little cottage has its pretty garden fenced in, and 
 is full of good things. 
 
 The fleas were our great torment at first, and in 
 answer to a note of mine to Mrs. Bowen, I received a 
 merry reply as follows : — 
 
 "Your story of the fleas recalls to my mind some of 
 my soldiering days. We were marched from Ports- 
 mouth to Winchester ; it poured heavily torrents of 
 rain ; I in an open gig with our servant. Like a kind 
 wife, I had filled the gig-box with a change for my 
 husband, but none for myself. I went to bed while my 
 clothes dried, and before the regiment arrived had a 
 good fire for him, and all required, and he did not for- 
 get me ; but the poor men took possession of their 
 barracks in woful condition, for it was the days of pipe- 
 clay on their tight leathers. Well, those barracks were 
 in what was called King Charles' Hunting-box. It had 
 never been finished, but the rooms were immensely 
 large every way, and a whole company (at that time
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 215 
 
 only eighty men) with wives and children was thrust 
 into one room — there were ten companies. Can you 
 imagine the beautiful confusion ? The next morning's 
 report was sad for them, yet almost laughable for un- 
 concerned spectators. The rooms had not been 
 tenanted for some months, and had been left dirty. 
 When invaded, however, by man, they were not found 
 so untenanted as supposed. Clouds of fleas almost put 
 the lights out. The men were put to throw buckets of 
 water and swill out the rooms. Oh ! the poor women ! 
 The surgeon of the regiment was a facetious man. He 
 told them, ' It was cowardly to attack the fleas in their 
 weak condition ; only let them live a week and there 
 would be some fun in killing them.' I was not within 
 these walls, except to look at them after a week's 
 cleaning. Only white dresses were worn then, and I, 
 like my lady companions, returned with spotted gown 
 and more company than was agreeable. Such things 
 were ! Fleas are a nuisance anywhere and at any time. 
 
 " My paper is done, and so is my wrist. I sprained it 
 yesterday, and it is painful, so please excuse me. — 
 Yours, &c, &c, M. Bowen. March 23rd." 
 
 The Cafire we took with us up the country, Caffre 
 Tom, speaks English, and, for a marvel, does his work- 
 without being watched. Some Caffres are very shrewd 
 and clever, but Tom is the most of a genius I have yet 
 met with, and possesses a frank, good-tempered face 
 that meets one always with a smile. His accomplish- 
 ments are various. He milks the cow and the goat, 
 attends to the horse, cleans the harness, shoes and boots, 
 chops wood for fires, and cooks. He cleans out our 
 rooms, he can skim the milk, wash the dishes nicely, 
 and clean knives. In short, he is now our factotum, and 
 can put his hand to anything. He drives a team of 
 oxen well, and that is no joke. He gets double the 
 usual wages, and we think he is worth the money. He 
 is, moreover, very polite. It was a treat to see him 
 hand me over a dangerous step ; he pointed out each 
 step I must take, and offered his hand lest I should slip 
 into the water. But to see him help me on to my horse !
 
 216 My African Home ; or, 
 
 his hands clasped for my foot to step into, and his 
 shoulder raised for my hand to rest upon, with such a 
 gallant air. Tom was a gentleman ! 
 
 Our cow gave us abundance of good milk, and butter 
 we churned in the slop-basin with a spoon. We make 
 our own bread, of course, and are the only people in the 
 place who possess white flour, which we brought with 
 us. Mealie meal, or Indian corn ground fine, is what is 
 generally used, and we mix it with ours for economy. 
 I put a large spoonful of our own grown and made 
 arrowroot with excellent effect into our last loaf. Our 
 life is indeed a very rural and primitive one in this 
 simple and beautiful country. 
 
 Firewood has to be brought from forests several miles 
 up the hills. My husband asked me if I would like to 
 ride on the horse behind the wagon that was prepared 
 to go for wood, and he would take a seat on the wagon- 
 box and see a little of the country. Of course, I was 
 very happy, so off we set, taking some prog with us and 
 a blanket or two, with some mats in case of rain or other 
 chances. It was fortunate we did so, for the journey 
 proved long, and we had to remain all night or return 
 with half-quantity of wood. The Caffres lighted a fire 
 and cooked for us, and my husband stretched a blanket 
 over a rope on posts in the form of a tent, placing the 
 mats and a tiger-skin on the ground beneath it. We 
 crept in, and really slept very snugly and comfortably. 
 There was a little rain in the night, but our tent kept us 
 dry, while the grass around was wet till ten o'clock a.m. 
 The forest was very beautiful, but the road to reach it 
 is awfully steep and difficult ; the poor oxen often re- 
 belled and got quite confused, going from side to side. 
 One hill must be fully a mile long without a break, and 
 in places too steep for any but a climber. The oxen 
 could scarcely pull up the empty wagons, and on our 
 return both hind-wheels were locked with thick chains. 
 My husband shot a young buck, so we fared well. We 
 had our kettle and a pan or two with us, potatoes, 
 herrings, bread and butter, and meal for porridge. The 
 Caffres slept round the fire, and kept the pot simmering
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 217 
 
 all night. Our lamp consisted of a bottle, out of which 
 Leyland knocked the bottom, sticking the neck into the 
 ground, while the broken top, or bottom rather, formed 
 a shade for the candle. In the morning we looked 
 around on the country, which was lovely. The clearest 
 stream of water ran underground close by our tent, 
 with a large hole of nature's making for our use. We 
 were on the edge of a wild and very extensive " kloof," 
 full of wood, some of it very fine timber. The water- 
 course was amongst large rocks, with ruins of blown- 
 down trees and beautiful mosses. In wandering about 
 we came upon a pretty little waterfall shut into a natural 
 closet, with dressing-room outside. The fall was so 
 tempting and so secluded that we could not resist, and 
 each went in, in turn, and enjoyed a shower-bath, while 
 the other kept guard at the entrance, but without the 
 chance of seeing any one to warn off the premises. 
 
 I received several kind letters and notes from our old 
 friend, Mrs. Bowen, while at Richmond. In one she tells 
 me that " Elijah " has sold his wagon to a man, named 
 Osborne, from Illovo. " Three men, two carts, and ten 
 or twelve oxen are settled down here for the night, and 
 the men talk of starting for the Illovo with the dawn to- 
 morrow. They say they have five rivers to cross, and 
 that they will have to swim themselves, their carts, 
 and oxen. They offer to take anything for me, so I 
 write, as this may chance to reach you before your 
 Richmond post. I am so completely isolated now, that 
 you must not expect an iota of news from me. I have 
 only a dismal, damp story, which you will be sorry to 
 hear. 
 
 "April i$th. — The men are not gone yet. Last even- 
 ing it began to rain, and we heard distant thunder, then 
 followed an almost tropical deluge ; the heavy rain never 
 ceased all night, and is now carrying on the same work. 
 Alas ! to me it is a work of destruction. The late 
 storms had prepared for its reception, and now I can 
 scarce find a dry corner. Thank heaven, my little bed 
 is still dry and snug; but the damp is making rapid ap- 
 proaches towards it on all sides. I had to rise more
 
 218 My African Home; or, 
 
 than once last night to put basins and deep plates to 
 catch the rain, and before morning I think I might have 
 filled my kettle if the water through the thatch had been 
 clean enough. Well, well ! surely an old woman is 
 wonderfully tough, for except twitches all over me, I 
 am not much the worse yet. But, oh ! do I speak thus 
 lightly of the tender mercies of my gracious God, instead 
 of devoutly acknowledging that it is of His fatherly 
 love and goodness that 1 am preserved, with many 
 comforts denied to others less unworthy than myself ? 
 But He sees my heart ! The news as regards our poor 
 soldiers in the East is indeed most distressing. What 
 are my little troubles compared with theirs ? It makes 
 me ashamed of naming them. Such storms, such sick- 
 ness, privations, and disappointments ; all the good 
 supply of warm clothing actually in sight, and then 
 sunk in the terrible ocean. Alas ! alas ! who can glory 
 in war ? I hope at least that your dwelling is water- 
 proof, and that in every way you will be preserved from 
 a ll evil.— Yours affectionately, " M. BOWEN." 
 
 April 23rd. — Mr. Feilden and I were returning to our 
 little cabin after having carried our letters for the post 
 at twelve o'clock, when an elderly man came across the 
 field and put a parcel in my hand. " Oh ! from Mrs. 
 Bowen," I said, on seeing the handwriting. The man 
 was Elijah's identical Mr. Osborne, a respectable-looking 
 man, at whose cottage we had stopped a few evenings 
 previous during our ride. Mr. Feilden asked how many 
 rivers he had crossed on his journey from Durban. He 
 replied, " Only one, but they would come the other way." 
 I suppose the longer and safer after such heavy rains as 
 Mrs. Bowen described. I remember we were anxious 
 about crossing the Illovo before dark one night, because 
 of the threatening sky. The roads to Richmond are its 
 greatest drawback, but these will improve with increased 
 population. 
 
 Our friends the Collins's insisted an our visiting them 
 in Maritzberg. I had not taken many dresses to this 
 quiet little place, not expecting to visit much from the 
 cobbler's cabin. However, we slung a basket over the
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 219 
 
 pommel of my saddle, and Leyland another over his 
 shoulder, and that was all the luggage we took for four 
 days ! 
 
 My old friend writes on May 2nd, 1855 : — 
 "My dear Mrs. Feilden,— 
 
 " Good tidings have reached me at last, even that 
 you have set your faces homeward ; but still I must 
 have patience, for your return will be delayed by a 
 previous visit to Maritzberg. I envy your friends the 
 pleasure of seeing you before I can. But, alas ! I 
 hardly know if I shall have a cottage standing. I am 
 now preparing my storeroom to sleep in, and my little 
 kitchen for a day-room, and leave Mr. Forrest to pull 
 down and put up again that most abominable thing, ' a 
 thatched roof.' Whether I shall live through all this I 
 cannot foresee ; time will tell. The path of my life 
 resembles greatly the paths by which I am surrounded, 
 and I am compelled to own I do not deserve better, if 
 so good ! so I try to be contented and thankful. Oh ! 
 my dear friend, what are my disquietudes compared to 
 those of my betters (in the true sense of the word) ? 
 Cannot you understand what I mean by much expe- 
 rience ? I must finish, for it is nonsense to waste time 
 and paper in grumbling stories of selt. My servant is 
 waiting to go to town ; all are in a hurry to go, but no 
 one dreams of being in a hurry to return. 
 
 "Affectionately yours, 
 
 "M. BOWEN." 
 
 Before leaving Richmond we became so friendly with 
 the kind clergyman and his sweet wife and daughter, 
 that they insisted on carrying us off to their cottage, 
 where we enjoyed a delightful visit of three or four 
 weeks, and had the pleasure of receiving them for an 
 equally agreeable visit at our own house at Feniscowles. I 
 have kept no record that I can find of this time. We 
 were four days and three nights on our homeward 
 journey, sleeping in the wagon. It was a cold journey 
 down, for this is a severe winter for Natal ; not a flower 
 in the grass, a bare coldness over the landscape, and 
 the trees only a dull green. We spent a few hours at
 
 220 My African Home ; or, 
 
 the sugar plantation as we passed, and were delighted 
 with the prospect it displays. Sugar-canes will grow- 
 splendidly, and every one looks for new life for Natal 
 in consequence. Other parties are planting indigo and 
 coffee, which grow well. The colony, I am told, has 
 all along been self-supporting, contending with diffi- 
 culties which a little timely aid would overcome. The 
 free labour of the Caffres is a drawback. I would not 
 make slaves of them ; but they might, with great ad- 
 vantage to themselves, be apprenticed for a term of 
 years, without a shadow of slavery, by allowance of 
 appeal under ill-usage, and this in return for the 
 protection our Government affords to fugitives from 
 neighbouring oppressive chiefs, who form the chief of 
 the Natal Caffre population, the original inhabitants 
 having been exterminated in native quarrels. The 
 white man found the country almost empty. 
 
 We returned from Richmond, on the Illovo, much 
 improved in health and strength, and in good spirits. 
 We heard, by the way, of the arrival of the Jane Morice, 
 with the bishop's large party, so as soon as we got a 
 little unpacked, and our horses in order (old Gudgeon 
 was doctoring mine), I donned my cloth habit for the 
 first time (the linen one having the general preference), 
 and we rode into Durban to call on Mrs. Colenso and 
 on Mr. Lamport's bride, a sweet, timid-looking lady, in 
 deep mourning for her mother, who has died since her 
 marriage. Here we found Archdeacon Mackenzie and 
 his sister domiciled, and the Rev. Mr. Bell calling ; so we 
 were fortunate, as most of the bishop's party were 
 starting that day for Maritzberg, their headquarters. 
 Miss Mackenzie is a real, hearty Scotch woman, " a fine 
 creature," with a mop of a head of hair. We w r ere both 
 quite taken with her. She has come to work hard, but 
 looks as if she were come for a spree, she has such a 
 bright, cheery look. Her brother (afterwards Bishop 
 Mackenzie, who died so sadly in the wilderness) is just 
 as grave and demure as she is cheerful. We both took 
 him for her husband. 
 
 We had rather a ludicrous introduction to Archdeacon
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 221 
 
 Mackenzie. When walking in Durban we heard a spill 
 behind us, and looking round, saw the Rev. Mr. Lloyd 
 dismounting to help to pick up his brother clergyman 
 who was in the dust. I asked if he had been thrown. 
 He replied, " I can't say I was thrown, but I fell off ;" 
 and added, he was not accustomed to horseback. 
 Neither is his sister ; she asked me if I could canter. 
 
 From Mr. Lamport's we went to the bishop's, where 
 we found the wagons ready to start. Seeing how busy 
 all were we offered not to enter ; but the bishop came 
 forward quite warmly to meet us, and took us in to see 
 Mrs. Colenso. We chatted very pleasantly for ten 
 minutes, during which I thought I discovered that Mrs. 
 Colenso had a good deal of experience yet to come. 
 
 She has brought out a nurse, " a most valuable person." 
 I thought of Wagland, and how unfit she is likely to 
 prove for the ways of the colony, and I felt sorry for 
 the mistress, and the sacrifices she must make for the 
 nurse. The children all had whooping-cough on board, 
 and one has been ill since landing, and poor Mrs. Co- 
 lenso wondered how she should be able to return my 
 call, saying she had not been on horseback since she 
 was a girl. I relieved her anxiety on that point, and 
 the bishop said, " Oh, yes, / shall come and see you." 
 We chatted about the Caffres, and on my lamenting 
 that I could not speak a word of Zulu, he brought me 
 a dictionary and a grammar of his own compiling ; also 
 a translation in Zulu of St. Matthew's Gospel, which 
 Louisa possessed, but which had gone out of print. 
 
 When we got home again we found Caffre Bonnet 
 waiting to know if I would take him back again. This 
 was fortunate, for he is a neat, clean, careful Caffre, and 
 Tom, whom we had with us at Richmond, is required 
 at Springfield to drive the wagon with the sugar-cane 
 to the mill. They are just beginning to cut the first 
 crop, which looks beautiful. 
 
 May 30M. — I have been teaching Bonnet this 
 morning to clean the silver candlesticks. He is very 
 apt and willing, and will work much better under me 
 than under a white servant.
 
 222 My African Home ; or, 
 
 The Jane Morice brought us a large tin trunk filled 
 with innumerable luxuries (the gifts of kind friends) from 
 England. All arrived in most perfect order ; not a thing 
 injured, or crushed, or cracked. I am told that dear sister 
 Margaret was the packer. If so, she need never fear 
 for her daily bread, for she may engage as a first-rate 
 London packer ! The quantity and variety that came 
 out of that box reminded me of the trick of Mr. Love's 
 wonderful portfolio. I shall be afraid to name a want 
 in future ; but I see that all these beautiful and useful 
 presents have been sent in pure love, for every article 
 I named is doubled and trebled, and presents are 
 showered upon us in full overflowing measure. How 
 can I ever be thankful enough for so many loving rela- 
 tions and friends ? Thirty-six long, interesting letters, 
 too ! The pleasure was overpowering. I could not 
 sleep well that night or the next. The unpacking, and 
 examination and admiration of each article as it came 
 out of the box, must have been a sight worth seeing ; 
 all our little wants remembered and supplied. The 
 japanned frying-pan is a gem, and shall be kept in the 
 house for our own especial cooking in winter, when we 
 have a fire occasionally, and enjoy trying our skill on an 
 omelette. The thin envelopes, too, are just the thing 
 for our long, thin sheets of paper. The fashionable 
 bonnet shall be worn when 1 stand Godmother to Mrs. 
 Collins's baby ; but my usual headgear is a large, broad- 
 brimmed straw hat, which Mrs. Smith, the farmer's wife, 
 makes of the palm-leaf. She bleaches and splits the 
 leaves, and then sews them into shape, and sells hats to 
 half the men in the colony, I think, for one shilling 
 each. Mine has a very wide brim, and is made after 
 my own fashion. I have trimmed it with a hand- 
 some ribbon from England. It shades my eyes 
 charmingly ; and I feel quite independent, if not in 
 London fashion. 
 
 June $t/i. — On Monday we set out on horseback at 
 seven a.m. for Springfield to witness the first cutting of 
 the sugar-cane, and the real commencement of making it 
 into sugar. Two hours' ride brought us to the sugar-
 
 Busn Life in Natal. 223 
 
 mill, passing through the most lovely bush and field 
 scenery, varied at every step by hill and dell. I had the 
 honour of putting one of the first canes into the crushing 
 machine. For the first trial all went on as well as could be 
 expected ; but the oxen, unaccustomed to circular action, 
 were very obstinate, and did not like their share of the 
 work at all. After staying some time watching the 
 process, we rode through the sugar plantations, which 
 looked like fields of riches, and if it please God, we may 
 look forward to a moderate competency in a few years. 
 Many of the canes are twelve feet long, the thickness of 
 my wrist, and the yield very good. I observed a few 
 stools (as they are called) that looked much more 
 beautiful than the rest ; Leyland told me that they had 
 been trashed, 1 and would consequently be sweeter, but 
 that want of labour prevented their thrashing generally. 
 We sat among the newly-stripped cane leaves, and 
 sucked a sugar-cane, which we found very refreshing. 
 We rode on to Mrs. Smith's (the Smiths are working at 
 Springfield now), where we had a plate of soup ; and, after 
 a rest, we returned to the sugar-mill to see the boiling 
 operation, drinking success to it, both in wine and in 
 sugar juice, I christening the opening day of the work 
 in a glass of wine. It was now four o'clock, and I was 
 not sorry to yield to Mr. Milner's persuasions to " ride 
 up " to Mrs. Milner's house, " close above," and stay ail 
 night. 
 
 1 Tras/icd=str\pped of dead leaves.
 
 224 Mv African Home ; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 June gt/i. — Feniscowles. 
 
 I was dressing this morning at six o'clock, when my 
 husband told me that he and our friend, Mr. Kock, were 
 going to ride over to Springfield about the sugar, and 
 they wanted breakfast immediately. I hurried my toilet, 
 and sent Caffre Bonnet (whom I found sweeping out the 
 floor) to get forward with the kitchen work out of doors, 
 while I took his place in the house to make things ready, 
 and we were seated at breakfast at seven o'clock. After 
 seeing the gentlemen off and washing up the china, 
 Saturday's work began. The clothes were counted and 
 sent off with Bonnet to the wash, the room thoroughly 
 dusted and tidied, a meat pie made ready for baking, 
 the bread mixed and kneaded, and when I got this length 
 our neighbour Mrs. Galliers came, and helped me with 
 the bed-rooms. By eleven o'clock I thought the work 
 about done, and sat down to pen a note for Mrs. 
 Galliers to take to Mrs. Bowen. Presently Mr. Bell 
 from my farm came to settle the rent ; next Henry 
 Gorge, with our cart and forage from Springfield, for the 
 stable ; and after attending to this, and putting up a few 
 articles for him to take back (as we intended going to 
 stay a few days at Springfield I, Alec Smith came in for 
 his dinner, and he put bread and cheese on the table for 
 my luncheon. Mr. Oakes, the Government surveyor, 
 calling at this moment, helped me with my bread and 
 cheese, and after a keen talk about boundaries, I walked 
 out with him to look at one of our boundaries ; wished 
 him good-morning, and returned to look after the baking 
 of my loaf. Presently I saw Leyland in the distance 
 (an hour before I expected him) looking out for Alec
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 225 
 
 to take his horse, and no one about to send for him. 
 We rang the great bell to no purpose (the grounds of 
 Feniscowles are extensive), when Bonnet came in sight, 
 bending under his basket load from Durban, looking gay 
 in his bright blue smock frock. My husband despatched 
 him for Alec, and he darted off, leaving his basket of 
 meat on the steps, where cats were watching, so I 
 watched them till he returned. It was now three o'clock, 
 our dinner hour was to be six ; Mr. and Mrs. King and 
 Mr. Kock were all coming to stay till Monday. All 
 was hurry; there was mustard to mix, curry and soup 
 to prepare, and the meat to attend to. Mrs. Galliers 
 came again offering to stay, so she helped me with the 
 soup, and took the worst part off my hands, that of 
 seeing the various pans put on the fire at the right time. 
 I went into the house to rest and dress, when a Caffre 
 came with a note from Mr. King, saying he had broken 
 his collar bone yesterday, and though he had reached 
 Congella (about a mile off us), he did not feel equal to 
 coming on. It was now near five o'clock, and Leyland, 
 always sympathizing with suffering, ordered his horse 
 and rode through the bush to see him ; and, to my 
 astonishment, reappeared at half-past six with Mr. and 
 Mrs. King, whom he had brought up here to be more 
 comfortable, putting him on his own horse and walking 
 beside him. Mr. King was evidently suffering, but he 
 sat at dinner, and then we sent him to bed. Our other 
 expected guest, Mr. Kock, having heard of Mr. King's 
 serious accident, rode up to excuse himself, which was 
 perhaps as well. 
 
 After dinner Mrs. King went upstairs with her 
 husband, and my husband and I were sitting on the 
 sofa, very tired with our day's work, when a " holloa ! " 
 from Leyland told me something more was coming. 
 Mr. King was in great pain, and thought the shoulder 
 must have been improperly set. He wanted my husband 
 to try and reset it, but he, fearing to do more harm than 
 good, ordered his horse again, and rode off to Durban to 
 fetch Dr. Best. Mrs. King and I did what we could to 
 relieve the poor sufferer, and then I tried in vain to sleep, 
 
 Q
 
 226 My African Home ; or, 
 
 so instead I got out my desk and wrote the account of 
 the day's work. Alec went to sleep on the stairs tillhe 
 should be wanted to take the horse, but at ten o'clock 
 Leyland had not returned. Bonnet washed and brought 
 in the plates and the silver to be put away, but on my 
 asking for more wood for the fire, he shook his head, 
 and I knew it was no use persisting, for I could not 
 explain the "why" in his language, and Caffres have 
 wills of their own. He feared going into the bush. 
 
 June \6th. — My old friend Mrs. Bowen writes : 
 " Yesterday afternoon the thatcher came, and we agreed 
 for him to commence on Monday. As to terms I guess 
 I have burnt my fingers, as I always do in the way of 
 bargaining ; but what can I do ? I am alone, and if I 
 do not have my thatched roof taken down I fear it will 
 not stand upon ceremony, but walk down itself. The 
 whole business is a terrible nuisance to me, but 'what 
 cannot be cured must be endured,' so I pray for patience 
 and strength as is my day. Yesterday Elijah brought 
 home with him a man Caffre ! Odious animal, as sweet 
 as a wolf! I have always avowed a determination to 
 have only boy Caffres, and of this Elijah was well aware, 
 but he did not like fetching water, and made a merit of 
 bringing any one when I wanted Tambooti grass to be 
 cut. Grainger, the thatcher, is strongly recommended 
 to me as a good workman, quiet, honest, and civil ; but 
 right thankful shall I be when he says ' Finis.' After 
 all, it will not be done according to my wishes and inten- 
 tions, but if before the wet season begins I have a water- 
 proof dwelling, I must needs be satisfied. My little, 
 very little, and sole apartment seems likely to be 
 bearable for a time ; indeed I am almost inclined for a 
 quotation, — 
 
 " ' My house, my house ! though thou art small, 
 Thou art to me the Escurial.' 
 
 " I have this blessing, amongst innumerable others, 
 that my desires and expectations generally adapt them- 
 selves wonderfully well to present circumstances. I 
 return your book-cutter with thanks, having found my
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 227 
 
 own. At present I cannot speak of the work itself, 
 having been too busy to read more than a few pages, 
 yet already I have taken a rather strong dislike to 
 Philip, which is certainly premature ; and indeed, 
 Cumming is so awfully interesting that I think no work 
 of fiction ever excited and compelled my attention so 
 greatly. Oh, he is a glorious writer, and every line 
 speaks to the heart. I feel exceedingly grateful to the 
 dear friends who thus supply my mind with nourishing 
 and delicious food, whilst they are ever regardful of the 
 wants and wishes of less serious hours, supplying these 
 also with lighter, but not unwholesome viands. Deprived 
 of these, I should be a solitary and too probably a dis- 
 contented unit. Thanks to my Heavenly Father, it is 
 never so with me. Tired with the fatigues and annoy- 
 ances of the day I often am, but when once I shut out 
 the world I feel at home, ray store of quietly conversing 
 friends are at hand, and will take no offence if I prefer 
 one to another. Each in its turn receives a due portion 
 of cordial welcome and civil (at least) attention, and 
 usually at an early hour I confide my weary frame to 
 its comfortable little couch, quite certain that ' a Sove- 
 reign Protector ' I have, unseen, but ' for ever at hand ;' 
 and though my sleep is often retarded till near dawn, 
 the hours are passed in peace. Now, my dear Mrs. 
 Feilden, would it not be well if I thought a bit of how 
 much I am intruding on your peace (saying you read to 
 the end) by all this verbiage ? So I will have mercy and 
 conclude, with my very kind love, and all sorts of good 
 wishes (except that I do not wish you to run away 
 again so soon), in all which Mr. Feilden is included as 
 far as is right and proper — and I continue to feel that I 
 am yours very affectionately, " M. BOWEN." 
 
 June 2ist. — I find myself writing : — 
 
 " My dear MRS. Bowen, — I am glad to hear your 
 new house is so snug. I shall certainly come if I can ; 
 but I may have to go into Durban one day this week to 
 stand sponsor for Mrs. Collins' baby, and we talk of 
 going to Springfield on Tuesday. I wish they would 
 christen the child on Sunday, for we should like to 
 
 Q 2
 
 228 My African Home ; or, 
 
 attend church, and it is not easy to ride in frequently 
 for any purpose. I must look out some of my pretty 
 things that came from England lately, to wear on the 
 occasion. There are a fashionable bonnet without any 
 front to it, and a very elegant polka mantilla, besides 
 some beautiful new-shaped collars and sleeves. I may 
 as well take the opportunity of wearing them. My 
 friends in England are always sending me things, and 
 really I should have a good life to wear them all out ! 
 I would not miss the love that prompts the gifts for any 
 consideration. Mary, whose name will be familiar to 
 you, sends me various little trifles that I begged her to 
 purchase for me, and over and above, amongst others, 
 some morning collars which she has set to habit shirts 
 of her own making. That is what I call showing love. 
 Mr. Feilden is better, but a little thing knocks him up, and 
 two nights ago he lay awake watching me, fearing I 
 was going to have another of those fits, after one of 
 which you will remember seeing me when Mr. and Mrs. 
 Fynn were with us. I had been very much exhausted 
 with reading aloud too long, I believe. The fit did not 
 come on, but I felt ill in the morning and am not quite 
 right yet. I will do what I can for you in the way of 
 getting Caffres, or naming your wants when at Spring- 
 field. My husband is cutting bush to-day with all the 
 hands he could muster, or he would send thanks for his 
 orange." 
 
 Again, on the 28th of June, 1855, my dear old solitary 
 friend writes me a long and interesting letter, showing 
 how a lady of education and refinement may be buffeted 
 about at near eighty years of age : — 
 
 " My dear Mrs. Feilden, — I felt more deeply my 
 disappointment on Sunday than I can well express, 
 because all around me were at peace, save and except 
 that Mr. Brickhill's cattle thought I had too many 
 poles under my poor denuded verandah, so knocked 
 down two, and acted a few other vagaries. I knew it 
 was useless to fret, and moreover I really do strive to 
 subdue my unruly temper, on the Sabbath day especially, 
 so I only sent to Mrs. Forrest asking to see her son.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 229 
 
 He returned with Elijah, and stayed over my little morn- 
 ing service, seeming well pleased therewith, and in the 
 evening his cousin, James Brickhill, came also. He was 
 distressed at the damage done, but I verily believe an 
 overruling providence will bring good out of seeming 
 evil, and bring about a reconciliation ; not immediately, 
 perhaps, but I see the dawn. It is painful to be at 
 variance with near and long-esteemed neighbours. 
 
 " When I took pen in hand it was in the full purpose 
 of prating a little, in fancied wisdom and real folly, 
 about the ' Heir of Redcliffe,' for the loan of which 
 interesting book, and in particular for your kind notes 
 and messages. I return a multitude of thanks. From 
 first to last I do not like either Philip or Laura, though 
 his latter days' contrition was of a redeeming nature. 
 His sister, odiously in the world and of the world ; 
 Lady Eva, to be pitied — lost for want of better training; 
 Mrs. Edmonston, a very lovable mamma ; Mr. E. nothing 
 worth noticing ; Charles and Charlotte increasing in 
 estimation to the end ; Ashfords and Ross's what they 
 should be ; Amy, a sweet character, though I fear too 
 perfect for poor, fallen human nature. But Guy is my 
 darling, my darling ! even in his darkest days. And 
 oh ! how very delightful, almost angelically so, were his 
 dying hours. I do not often meet with such a treat ; 
 for in his deeply pious feelings — and few, very ^w, were 
 his expressions of them — he seemed to me to be en- 
 tirely free from any degree of affectation, enthusiasm, or 
 display. On the contrary, he appeared to be quite 
 unconscious of saying anything more, or otherwise, than 
 any one else would say in similar circumstances. If any 
 taint of selfishness could be even fancied as belonging to 
 his character, it must be that constant dread he appeared 
 to have, that he had committed some fault ; in short, a 
 sacred jealousy over himself, lest he should fail in any 
 known duty. Is there such a mortal on earth ? 
 
 "June 29//). — This begins my third day of noise, dirt, 
 and confusion, but I got on pretty well until yesterday 
 afternoon. A little before three o'clock my old thatch 
 was whirling about in all directions, the few reeds re-
 
 230 My African Home; or, 
 
 maining on the verandah joining in the dance. In the 
 meantime the sand from the top of my kitchen came 
 all over my sofa, &c, &c. I was wondering what was 
 incommoding my neck, and found my back also under 
 the same infliction, so I was obliged to put Elijah upon 
 a search amongst the lining of my home for a piece 
 large enough to cover the part over my bed at least. 
 More than this could not be obtained, so he said, and I 
 was obliged to be content, for I could not stand upright 
 against the wind, though forced by circumstances to 
 make many attempts. A more trying day I have not 
 often experienced. Thank heaven for a safe and tole- 
 rably comfortable night, the wind having somewhat 
 abated, and that I am not much the worse for these 
 ' minor miseries.' What are these compared to those 
 of our people in Russia, and indeed to thousands at 
 home ? I do blush that I should complain. Alas ! 
 self will be attended to, and I dread cold far more than 
 heat. All this while I have not made any inquiry 
 as to how it fared with you ? Do not, pray do not, 
 imagine that I was unmindful of what the storm might 
 cause you to endure. Oh no ! but I did hope you were 
 not so badly situated as I am, and I still hope so. 
 
 " Mrs. Galliers promised to come to-day ; if for a 
 wonder she do, I shall send the book and this almost 
 unintelligible scrawl. Please to excuse it, for I must 
 own that my head and hands are rather disagreeable 
 companions, and yet what could I do without them ? 
 Please to offer my kind regards to Mr. F., and accept 
 the kindest wishes of your affectionate friend, 
 
 " M. BOWEN. 
 
 " PS. — Two beautiful blossoms have cheered me with 
 their living tokens of dear friends' remembrances — did 
 j say ? — on the little deep red rose. I am sore afraid 
 of the reckless Caffres hurting it, but have had it pro- 
 tected as well as I can. The ' first cousins to monkeys,' 
 as a Brazilian called them, sung and chattered till I 
 scolded in right earnest, and kept them quiet half an 
 hour. How goes on the christening ? I hope you won't 
 leave home in such uncertain weather. — M. B."
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 231 
 
 I hope I have interested my readers sufficiently in 
 my kind old neighbour, to bear a few more occasional 
 extracts from her letters. 
 
 July 3rd, she writes : — " Day after day brings me only 
 a repetition of disappointments, yet I do not complain, 
 for it is only the common lot. Yet in the midst of this 
 inward grumbling, for such I have a strong misgiving is 
 the case, I am not entirely selfish. I did really and 
 truly rejoice to hear that you and Mr. Feilden were in 
 Durban on Sunday. I must not envy, but it would 
 have been very delightful to have met you at the Lord's 
 table. I am still in my humble state, and tolerably 
 content therewith, knowing it is useless to be otherwise. 
 It is true I cannot help sometimes thinking of the dear 
 firesides I shall never see again, and wish that the winds 
 would pass over my little room without threatening to 
 annihilate it, and perhaps me in the rubbish — at least, 
 that I could exclude such unpleasant visitors. Cannot 
 be done, but thanks to your kindness, my dear Mrs. 
 Feilden, my icy feet have fared uncommonly well — very 
 little rheumatism, and rarely the cramp. Those beau- 
 tiful and most comfortable socks, bootkins, or what is 
 their proper name ? have been my doctor and nurse, 
 night and part of each day, and never do I put them 
 on without blessing and loving the giver. Surely there 
 is a cause ! 
 
 " Things never run smoothly long together here, and 
 so it has happened that George Haigh has left me. and 
 poor Mrs. Galliers cannot come to help me when I am 
 more than usually in want of assistance, and in con- 
 sequence Elijah is more consequential and dictatorial 
 than I well know how to bear, nor would I in other 
 circumstances ; but it is hard to find another, or even 
 Caffres, when most required. My house proved to be 
 in a worse state than was expected, and in consequence 
 there is increased expense. (I hope I shan't get into 
 the ' Tronk.') I should like to see what you think of 
 my abode, which I do not even hope to change under 
 a week or ten days. 
 
 " I like the 4 Experience of Life ' as far as I have
 
 232 My African Home; or, 
 
 gone, which is about half-way, and thank you for it. I 
 intend to tell Elijah to go round your road when he 
 goes to town to-morrow, and leave this note. He is 
 also to call on Mrs. Galliers about her pig, and perhaps 
 she will have occasion to send a Caffre to Keventrenfa. 
 If so, he would be the bearer of a note from you, my dear 
 Mrs. F., which would be most welcome." 
 
 About this time a friend wrote from Richmond : 
 " The bishop's family are expected in Maritzberg this 
 week ; I suppose they will occupy Government House 
 at present. Everything seems progressing at the 
 bishop's mission station, near Maritzberg. How full of 
 hope the good bishop seems with regard to his mission 
 to the Caffres ; and why should he not be so? If he 
 have peculiar difficulties to encounter, still is anything 
 too hard for the Lord ? " 
 
 July 8t/i. — We have been a week in Durban. We 
 rode in last Sunday barely in time to be in church 
 before service Legan. It was communion Sunday, and 
 we stayed very quietly and comfortably. Last week 
 was the Durban Rangers' drill week, which ended on 
 Friday afternoon. On Saturday we rode out to Fenis- 
 cowles and to call on Mrs. Bowen, who was charmed to 
 see us. We stayed an hour at least, and rode back to 
 Durban to stay over another Sunday, and probably 
 Monday if Mrs. Collins' baby should be christened. 
 But, alas ! this has raised such a stir and question, and 
 so many prejudices, that we should almost have been 
 better at home. The bishop is trying to carry every- 
 thing with a high hand, and people do not like to knock 
 under all at once and change all their notions and 
 customs without sufficient reason. Children are all to 
 be baptized on Sunday during service, and if that makes 
 the service too long, the psalms or something must be 
 omitted. Now, the congregation do not like this. Ley- 
 land says he will not stand godfather before all the 
 people during the service, and he does not see that the 
 rubric enforces such. Mr. Collins, the father, says he 
 will not make such a display in church, and Mrs. Collins 
 says that, with all the domestic arrangements in a colonial
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 233 
 
 household, it is impossible that both parents can be so 
 long absent from their house ; moreover, that she cannot 
 be nursing the baby to keep him good during the whole 
 service. Then my old scruples, about literal interpre- 
 tation of the responses, come in to jar upon my feelings. 
 The archdeacon says it cannot be intended to mean 
 more than I should wish to do, or will try, &c. &c. ; but 
 I say if they are so strict in observing the letter of the 
 rubric, why are they less so in interpreting the reading 
 of the responses ? There was a christening this morning, 
 and it occupied quite half the time of the morning ser- 
 vice, omitting the psalms. With my poor ears I could 
 not make out where they were, or what about, so really 
 the distraction from all these various causes and the 
 having been a little late in church, prevented my joining 
 in almost any part of the service, and I wished we were 
 quietly reading the prayers at home with the young 
 Smiths for congregation. 1 
 
 The Durban church is to be formally given over to 
 the bishop to-morrow. He declined to have anything 
 to do with it unless it were put entirely and completely 
 under his own management, in which case he will take 
 over all responsibilities, liabilities, debts, &c, &c. This 
 question about baptism has so roused the whole com- 
 munity, that I do not know what will be the end of 
 the meeting to-morrow. The bishop, too, has hurt the 
 feelings of many by a confession of bigotry — so 'tis 
 called. The Dissenters invited him to a tea-party, in 
 connection with the laying the foundation stone of a 
 new chapel. Instead of simply declining, which would 
 have been dignified and sufficient, the bishop tells them 
 in his note that he does not think the building of such 
 
 1 Mrs. Collins' baby was christened, on the 24th, in church. It 
 was a saint's day, and prayers were read. There was also a 
 churching during the service. Mr. Proudfoot and we were 
 sponsors, Mr. Knck standing proxy for Mr. Feilden, who unluckily 
 could not ride in, both himself and his horse being rather out of 
 order ; so I rode in alone, with William Smith leading the other 
 horse to take it on to Springfield, to get well. We all dined with 
 Mr. and Mrs. Collins, and they and Mr. Proudfoot rode home 
 wiih me.
 
 234 My African Home ; or, 
 
 a chapel likely to forward Christianity ; he believes 
 them to be earnest in their desires to forward it, and he 
 wishes them " such a " blessing as God may vouchsafe 
 them, or something like that. The whole people are up 
 in arms against him, and the Churchmen are sorry he 
 should have given such cause of offence, which they 
 cannot justify. The Dissenters, I believe, are Independ- 
 ents and Baptists united. 
 
 I cannot think that the spirit of religion consists in 
 outward forms and ceremonies, though these tend to 
 good, for, where the means are used, a blessing is pro- 
 mised to follow ; but I do think our Church has the best 
 " form of sound words." There is danger of substituting 
 form for spirit, in the way they are now going on, 
 trying to revive the early practices of the Church which 
 may not be quite expedient for the present times. 
 
 July ^ist. — Poor Mrs. Bowen's thatching of her little 
 cottage went on but slowly. She writes : " It is a 
 weary world, and I am weary of it ; but still there comes 
 a gleam of sunshine, and I feel the genial influence. 
 Surely it is a kind word, a loving smile, or a deed of 
 kindliness from a friend which gives this foretaste of better 
 things. Your welcome note was a cordial, and revived 
 me. I asked the little boy if he knew whether Mrs. 
 Feilden was better, and he seemed quite pleased to say, 
 1 Yes, ma'am,' showing his beautiful white teeth ; I wish 
 I had such for use, never caring for the beauty. I have 
 been tired, vexed, and unwell all morning. Yesterday, 
 for five hours during the absence of Elijah, I never 
 rested a moment, going to and fro, heavily laden with a 
 hundred unnecessary things (for we really want but 
 little), from the storeroom to my cottage, and 1 do feel 
 the effects to-day pretty considerably, but cannot be 
 quiet yet. There is still much— laughable to say much 
 here — to be done before I can say fin is ; peradventure it 
 may be said to vie first! How kind of Mr. Feilden to 
 think of me during the storm. Thank heaven, I was 
 safe, though for a few minutes a little nervous — for the 
 kitchen roof threatened to entomb me, but it was not so 
 ordained. I long to talk to you. I do not say I was
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 235 
 
 unhappy in my narrow dwelling, as my thoughts have 
 recently been directed to a much narrower: where 'the 
 weary are at rest.' Ah ! blessed Saviour! Something 
 better than rest is in prospect, even to see Jesus, 'the 
 fairest among ten thousand, and altogether lovely.' 
 What can it signify where and what may be my ex- 
 perience of life ? a taper just going out. Pardon me, 
 my dear Mrs. Feilden ; I am not doing right to inflict 
 my sombre thoughts on you, but indeed they are neither 
 dark nor dull to me. They are rather soothing and 
 calm, just what my unruly spirits require. 
 
 " I was surprised lately, by a visit from my young 
 friend, James Brickhill ; he gave me full particulars of 
 the sweetly peaceful end of his beloved mother, and 
 the examination which, at her own request, had taken 
 place. It certainly appears miraculous that she had 
 lived in such a state for years — the heart ossified, lungs 
 adhering to the side, and water on the chest ! I think it 
 was a wise and kind suggestion of the poor sufferer, as 
 it evidently helped to console those so devotedly at- 
 tached to her, by considering what a glorious and 
 happy change it was for her. The tenor of her life 
 gave them leave to believe this, and this, with much 
 prayer for resignation and support, James did name as 
 the great source of their consolation. I hope I have 
 not carried my report too far, but it occurred to me 
 that it might not be uninteresting."
 
 236 My African Home; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 July 27th. — We are all busy with sugar just now. 
 My husband's crop is the first in the market, and is 
 getting high prices, but the mill does its work so slowly 
 that I fear others will be ready to compete with him 
 soon. He has had much to contend with, and often 
 comes in quite out of spirits ; but, on the whole, the 
 prospect begins to brighten, and I hope that in a year 
 or two we may be able to go home and see our dear 
 friends once more. What a struggle life is ! or rather 
 man makes it so, by making so many superfluities be- 
 come necessary adjuncts. Half an English gentleman's 
 expenses are for show, and not for comfort, nor even 
 convenience ; yet society has made them necessary. In 
 Natal there is but little of that, yet even here it is on a 
 small scale. 
 
 We called on a bride lately. The drawing-room was 
 crammed with furniture, so that when once seated there 
 was no further move to be made. We resist this cram- 
 ming in the country, and have no carpet. Carpets only 
 breed fleas in this hot country, and I always think our 
 room looks much more livable in consequence of its 
 greater ease and freedom. Our bed-room has, not in- 
 aptly, been compared to a ship's cabin : it is storeroom 
 and bookcase, and even has to serve for cellar till we 
 get the other half of the house up. 
 
 Mrs. M. is going to England with her children, 
 disgusted with colonial life and difficulties. Her husband 
 has sold everything, and means to follow his wife. He 
 was just on the threshold of making money from his 
 sugar plantation ; but he told me " it was misery to have 
 his family, and misery to be without them, and what
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 237 
 
 could a man do ? " I heard that she let her husband do 
 the housework, as well as that of the plantations ! 
 
 The bishop's party are gone to Maritzberg, where 
 they will find plenty of work. As far as civilizing the 
 Caffres goes they may succeed, because the Caffres are 
 handy when taught, and civilization doubtless precedes 
 Christianity ; but its effects are strange here without the 
 softening influence of true heartfelt religion. As far as 
 our generation is concerned, I do not look for much 
 good, but " the seed cast upon the waters will be found 
 after many days." They should begin with the children ; 
 very nice faces many of them have. I often wish I 
 could talk freely with them, for they all seem to like 
 me. Is it not a curious thing that, out of a population 
 of many thousands, planters cannot secure labour to 
 gather in their crops ? My husband has just sold his 
 arrowroot and his oats in the ground for less than half 
 their value, because he cannot command labour to 
 harvest them, the sugar-cane requiring all he has. I 
 have just been eating a spoonful of his sugar, which is 
 like sugar candy. Our Governor has gone to England, 
 and we hope that his representations may be of some 
 use on the labour question, as the welfare of Natal 
 depends on it. 
 
 We have got rid of old drunken Gudgeon at last, 
 though he may turn up again like a bad penny. Ever 
 since he returned from his hunting expedition with 
 Captain Stephenson he has been hanging on our hands 
 on the sick list ; that is, he moped and groaned, and 
 lost his spirit, thinking he was going to die, and he 
 would not work. At last, Leyland told him he would 
 send him home to England. He ordered a few things 
 for him and was about to take his passage when 
 Gudgeon disappeared, and after some inquiry it was 
 found that he had gone to the Cape on board the 
 Cleopatra as cook ! He has some strange notions, and 
 may have thought he would save my husband the 
 passage money and work his way home, but novelty 
 and change are what he desires, and he had tired of 
 his quiet life here. We are very glad to be rid of him.
 
 238 My African Home ; or, 
 
 Mrs. Galliers' husband has gone off to the diggings 
 in Australia, his reason being that the high wages he 
 gained in Durban had put some spare cash in his 
 pocket, and he must spend it ! His wife hopes he may 
 soon return. He sent her about 10/. the other day, but 
 I believe she has spent none of it. I am teaching little 
 Billy to read ; he is quite proud to be allowed to come 
 for his lesson. 
 
 Poor old Mrs. Bowen looks worn and aged this winter. 
 She writes that she desires to be obedient and willing 
 either " to go or stay," and she desires to feel that all is 
 well, whichever way her Heavenly Father wills. She 
 must have a cheerful spirit, and full occupation for her 
 mind, or her life would be very lonely. 
 
 August 8t/i. — We rode over to Springfield yesterday. 
 It was a lovely ride, the gorgeous scarlet of the Caffre- 
 boom, just now in flower, almost atoning for the absence 
 of the autumnal tints of other lands. We passed over 
 part of the new road being made by the soldiers over 
 the Berea, to avoid a very steep hill; it reminded me of 
 an English road. Leyland entered one of the tents 
 erected for the soldiers, and invited the officer (Lieut. 
 Stubbs) to return with us to dinner and stay all night. 
 On being told of this, I said, " Oh ! but we have only 
 cold beef and broth ! " Presently I suggested asking 
 Mrs. Smith to kill and truss a fowl, and said to my 
 husband, "You shall put it in your pocket to take home, 
 it will soon be cooked ;" and so it was agreed. The 
 fowl was killed and made ready with some peas and 
 potatoes, and a Caffre sent over with them and a note 
 to William Smith — aged fourteen — to get a good dinner 
 for our return. On returning, however, Mr. Stubbs came 
 forward to excuse himself, one of the men having been 
 taken ill and the doctor sent for, and he must stay for 
 the doctor. We told him to bring Dr. Cunninghame 
 with him, and we sent a Caffre to show them the way 
 to our new road, four miles off; but we had our good 
 dinner all to ourselves, and after our cold beef antici- 
 pations of the morning, I cannot do less than write out 
 the bill of fare. We had found some mushrooms in
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 239 
 
 our ride, which we fried in my pretty little " room " 
 frying-pan, just at the right moment ; we had new pota- 
 toes and green peas, two kinds of mulligitawny soup, 
 boiled beef, a hash, a roasted fowl, and some fine 
 lettuces made into a beautiful salad, and we really 
 feasted after our long ride. A glass of porter made me 
 so sleepy that I went off to bed, and dreamed vigorously 
 of the bishop filling a new church, &c, &c, but I found 
 that Leyland had not only burned down a good long 
 candle reading, but had also stretched across to the 
 shelf above to get another. 
 
 The next day my husband accompanied Mr. Proud- 
 foot to his farm on the Inanda for a few days' shooting, 
 himself with his gun and his pockets full on one horse, 
 and a spare horse with his pack. The weather changed, 
 and the gentlemen were drenched. The rain penetrated 
 into the house or hut, so that they could scarcely light 
 a fire to cook their food, and finally they retreated to 
 an empty stall in the stable to cook for themselves, the 
 Caffre having gone off to get married. They were very 
 merry under all their disasters, and when they went to 
 look for their bottle of brandy they found it had been 
 broken on the journey, and its contents lost. My 
 husband had sprained his knee a little and got extra 
 cold, but says they had great fun seeing a troop of 
 baboons running down a steep hill, and carrying their 
 young ones — a most curious sight. He brought me 
 home a pow tied to the saddle of his second horse, and 
 wishes I had been with him to see the baboons. Mrs. 
 Mellor (the magistrate's wife) sent me a very pretty 
 feather duster, made from the feathers of a pow, which 
 her husband had shot. If I could get a handle I should 
 like to make one out of my husband's pow to send to 
 England. Mrs. Mellor's gift, she says, is made in con- 
 sequence of the pleasure she experienced on seeing my 
 embroidered flowers. This is the first tribute to talent 
 I have ever received ! 
 
 I found a new flower myself to-day in the bush ; even 
 my husband's quick eyes had never encountered one of 
 its kind. It is a shrub with something of a bay or
 
 240 My African Home ; or, 
 
 laurestina leaf. The flower has four rather small yellow 
 green petals in the centre, whence spring a number of 
 pure white stamens, like myrtle, but longer ; a pink 
 pistil pointed green, and with the richest perfume 
 imaginable. The flower fades immediately on being 
 broken from the tree, but I mean to introduce it into 
 my next piece of embroidery. Many of these flowers 
 are, however, very awkward for a piece of work, and 
 they cramp the design. Their stems are stiff and 
 straight, and, like the long, bony arms of a lady, are 
 better covered ; the difficulty is to cover them ele- 
 gantly. The scarlets are very grand in Natal ; the 
 scarlet geranium and Caffre-boom are in full glory. No 
 wools I have yet had from England or Germany have 
 equalled their brilliance when placed beside the flower. 
 The boom is an orange scarlet. 
 
 We begin to talk about building our new kitchen, 
 but we must wait a good while for it. William Smith 
 is a nice, active, intelligent boy, almost as good a cook 
 as his mother. He saves me a great deal of the dis- 
 agreeable part of the kitchen work, and Bonnet has 
 got more into my ways, so that I have not half the 
 labour I have hitherto had. This week, however, I 
 have been at my old work. Some of the Springfield 
 Caffres are sick, and we have sent all the help we can 
 from Feniscowles to take their work, so we have had to 
 take our share at home. I cooked a beefsteak in my 
 mother's beautiful little frying-pan on the fire in our 
 room, and young William cooked the pow for our 
 dinner, and I hope we felt thankful. He baked the loaf 
 which I had laid in the forenoon. I shall be useful at a 
 picnic, if ever I go to another where the dinner has to 
 be cooked, as well as the table-cloth laid on the green 
 sward. 
 
 Poor Mrs. Bowen is fairly victimized by her man- 
 servant, who thinks she cannot do without him. He lives 
 in a small cottage beside her, a sort of lodge to her 
 drive, and caters for himself. Lately he has been pay- 
 ing his addresses to a young widow. He purveys rather 
 shortly for his own living, and thus requires to visit
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 241 
 
 Durban often, leaving the poor old lady without a bit 
 of dinner cooked. She has had to send over for Mrs. 
 Galliers during Elijah's absence, and to-day I have a 
 long letter descriptive of her troubles, half ludicrously 
 set forth. She has only had two dinners cooked this 
 week, but a fowl lasts her a long time. I must here 
 extract from her own letter : — 
 
 " My dear Mrs. Feilden, — I embrace a moment's 
 quiet to say something ; whether to the purpose or not 
 you shall be the judge. My own ideas are very like 
 the weather round and about, and rather troublesome ; 
 and, in fact, it will be a little volume of troubles I 
 shall have to pen, for I cannot keep them at a due 
 distance from my thoughts, although I do at times 
 struggle hard for victory. I have lately had a regular 
 infliction of cattle visitations, always either strangers' 
 or from Mrs. Forrest, and it really is a severe trial of 
 patience, as I cannot get either white or coloured 
 beings to repair the mischief done. My own feeble 
 hands have rilled up some of the holes, but it is useless, 
 for here they were again last night, so near the back of 
 my bed that I anticipated direful news in the morning. 
 I am thankful to say the mischief is less than I expected, 
 and I have great cause for thankfulness for other mercies. 
 You know, I believe, that I indulge myself with a little 
 lamp of cocoa oil for company and fancied safety — not 
 altogether fancy last night, for just as I withdrew 
 my last stocking, and looked lovingly at my dear little 
 bed, I was attracted by something moving behind one 
 of my trunks. I relit a candle, and had the pleasure of 
 seeing a very pretty snake ! I knew it would be useless 
 to ring for Elijah, who takes a long time to hear the 
 bell, and, moreover, he is frequently out all night or the 
 greater part thereof ; so I prayed for strength, and had 
 it. The poor thing had not lived so long in the world 
 as to be tired of it, so he did his best to repel my attacks, 
 and, verily, it was a hard-fought battle, with a multi- 
 tude of obstructions to my taking the intended aim at 
 head and tail. On the contrary, I could only reach the 
 middle, and he all the time showing his teeth at me 
 
 R
 
 242 My African Home ; or, 
 
 most bravely. My warlike instrument was (now don't 
 laugh, for it is true) my rolling-pin ! which I usually 
 keep in a corner, and fortunately there it was. Being 
 very heavy, I found it quite serviceable, and at length 
 proved conqueror, having crushed him from head to tail. 
 Then, with my large scissors, I carried him triumphantly 
 into the parlour. Poor thing ! it was a pity, for he was 
 only three-quarters of a yard long, and, consequently, 
 had seen but little of the world. I confess that, with the 
 surprise, exertion, and prostration, I was a little over- 
 done ; nervous, and easily disturbed throughout the 
 wearisome and sleepless night. But I had many sweet 
 hymns and psalms ready at hand, and many, many 
 well-remembered mercies to recall, proving that all shall 
 be well to those who love and trust in God. So I am 
 none the worse to-day, but I cannot say I am any 
 better. 
 
 "August ijth. — Last night's heavy storm of thunder 
 and rain has, no doubt, done its beneficial work of puri- 
 fying the air, but it is not an easy task to meet the rude 
 storms of life in such a way as may render them also 
 beneficial by dispersing all evil tempers, — discontented, if 
 not repining, feelings ; in short, every vain or sinful 
 imagination that would disturb and envelop in thick 
 gloom the soul's brightest aspirations, and even obstruct 
 our views of the ' Sun of Righteousness,' so necessary to 
 sustain and animate the struggling spirit. 
 
 " August i8t/i. — I had a double benefit last night — 
 the cattle, as usual. I did ring, and Elijah did come, 
 and spoke to me at the window ; but I think he saw the 
 tiger, which took away my two sole remaining fowls 
 and broke my nice pen to pieces, for I heard him (Elijah, I 
 mean) give a grunt, and walk off! The cattle were 
 here in the morning, and allowed to please themselves. 
 How I shall fare in his absence to-day (for he must go 
 to town) I know not ; and his head is bewildered with 
 the anticipated gaieties at ' Prospect ' next Tuesday, 
 when he expects a whole holiday. Woe is me ! half 
 his time is spent far away ; but he is useful when at 
 home, and ' further this deponent sayeth not.'
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 243 
 
 " I did wish to write somewhat largely about Jupiter, 
 and all the glorious and wonderful things set forth with 
 pomp of erudition and vainglory by the ' Brewster.' 
 He is not a brewer to my taste ! I prefer the soul- 
 searching and soul-soothing lectures and songs of 
 Cummings ; the practical lessons of Angel James ; or 
 the good old plainness of Doddridge, infinitely before his 
 lofty, and to me, stultifying philosophy. It is beyond 
 my reach, for I feel that a linnet cannot gaze with the 
 eyes of an eagle, and find also ' that many, like the 
 violet, are safest in the shade.' There are, indeed, many 
 passages of great beauty, both as to matter and manner; 
 but the simple believer in the Scriptures, and the humble 
 but most sincere worshipper of the great Creator in His 
 works and His words, does not require such extreme 
 excitement to assist his fervour. I rather think, or at 
 least, feel, that it is distressingly overwhelming to the 
 limited extent of my mental powers ; but I have not 
 gone through the volume, and I must wait a bit for a 
 more extensive acquaintance— naming, however, one 
 great disadvantage under which I labour. From 
 childhood I have had an unconquerable aversion to 
 lengthened numeration tables, and I cannot get beyond 
 a million. All over that trifle (to him) baffles my brain- 
 work, and it is useless to puzzle myself about it. You 
 will hereby perceive what a poor figure I make when I 
 get among J:he stars. I fear this humiliating confes- 
 sion will lessen your too flattering opinion of me, but I 
 trust it will not lessen the conviction that I am most 
 sincerely your affectionate friend, " M. Bowen." 
 
 Sir David Brewster's billions and trillions were cer- 
 tainly beyond my limited powers of calculation, but 
 when once I really apprehended him I could see nothing 
 but what was good and right in his wonderful book 
 entitled " More Worlds than One." His ideas respecting 
 the planetary system, and the countless orbs moving 
 round their suns, have greatly and beautifully enlarged 
 my thoughts of the marvellous and infinite works of the 
 Creator. And who shall limit His power? Infinite! 
 what does that word mean ? I never felt its force (even 
 
 K 2
 
 244 My African Home ; or, 
 
 where I acknowledged the term as we are taught from 
 infancy) in the vivid manner in which Brewster's work 
 has caused me to feel it. 
 
 August i8t/i. — It was half-past seven before I rose 
 this morning, and nearly nine before we had finished 
 breakfast. The horses strayed last night, and had to be 
 looked for this morning, so extra work fell to my share 
 again, for it was Saturday, and the Caffre had to be 
 sent to Durban for meat and meal. At four o'clock I 
 began to look out anxiously for his return, but no signs 
 were visible. Little Billy brought me a note from Mrs. 
 Bowen, so I gave the child his lesson, read my note, 
 tried to think, and walked up to the bush-path ; but 
 still no Bonnet, and no William ! I looked into 
 the kitchen to see if there was any fire ; not a bit. I 
 looked at my bread pan, and my loaf had risen to the 
 top of the dish, and would surely be sour if not attended 
 to ; so finding a live piece of fire in the house grate, I 
 tried to light the fire myself in the kitchen, and put the 
 bread on in the bakepan (we have no oven). I fanned 
 away at the fire with my garden hat, got a blaze at last, 
 and put on the bread ; but the smoke was blinding me, 
 so that I could not finish the operation by putting wood 
 on the lid of the pan to bake the loaf above as well as 
 below. Still neither William nor Bonnet appeared, 
 and I set off to get Mrs. Galliers' help. She was 
 washing her children to put them to bed. Billy was 
 naked on the floor. She most good-naturedly said she 
 would leave them and come down the hill ; but I could not 
 allow her to do this, fearing some accident if they were 
 left so, and, therefore, I said I would stay with the chil- 
 dren ; and reluctantly, though gladly, she accepted my 
 offer, saying that Billy could wash himself. I saw, how- 
 ever, that he did not manage the thing well, so I washed 
 and dried him, and carried him into bed naked, not 
 knowing where his night-gown was. Then I undressed 
 the pretty little girl, washed her, and put her to bed in 
 the same way. By this time Mrs. Galliers came back, 
 saying she had found her own Caffre and had set him 
 to work, and that William had at last returned, but not
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 245 
 
 Bonnet. It was nearly dark, so Mrs. Galliers walked 
 down the hill with me, and we found William busy, but 
 very hot and breathless ; he had found the horses near 
 Bell's farm, two or three miles off. The fire was going 
 merrily. William had set on some manioc (of which 
 root tapioca is made) to roast for dinner. The rice I 
 had made ready, and it was soon on, and we prepared 
 to dine off cold salt beef. At half past seven Bonnet 
 appeared, excusing himself for stopping half-way to rest, 
 it was such a heavy load. A steak was soon fried, 
 and we enjoyed our dinner, but not before we were 
 ready for it. 
 
 About this time we killed one of our pigs, and very 
 naturally sent our dear old neighbour, Mrs. Bowen, a 
 piece of pork. She replied thus : — 
 
 " My DEAR Mrs. Feilden, — Many things prevented 
 me last evening from duly acknowledging your very kind 
 present, which set my mouth watering, and I longed to 
 be ' at it' So this morning I prepared for a feast ; but 
 Elijah had a fit, and if Mrs. Galliers had not made her 
 appearance about twelve I should have been put 
 about sadly. He did light a fire, and fired away at the 
 same time with lofty boastings, but was humbler when 
 he saw I could do without him — a Radical ! 
 
 " But how glorious your pig must have been ! really I 
 have not seen such since I came from the land of 
 hams (even Herefordshire), and it was quite delicious 
 eating. Thanks, many thanks for it, and not for it 
 alone — oh, no ! I am sorry to hear Mr. Feilden does 
 not improve so fast and so entirely as we could wish, 
 and consequently that many unusual cares must devolve 
 on you, my dear, kind friend. I do pray very fervently 
 to be strengthened and supported, for I have no one to 
 help or overmuch care for me. Never mind ! it is only 
 'the beginning of the end.' The violent winds distress me, 
 and snakes continue to pay unwished-for visits. Elijah 
 killed a most lovely and large green one this morning 
 in the storeroom, so beautiful ; I wish to put him in a 
 bottle, but E. is a barbarian, and does his work like a 
 savage. There was no beauty left, so he went to the bush.
 
 246 My African Home ; or, 
 
 " I read and read again about ' More Worlds than 
 One,' not doubting the probability, and rather wishing 
 to feel a certainty, that I may meet my lost ones in 
 Jupiter, Mars, or Venus ; but regretting that pagan 
 names were accorded to them by Christian men. I 
 cannot help thinking that — 
 
 " ' Books of knowledge crowd our shelves, 
 Men know all things but themselves.' 
 
 " Mrs. Galliers is impatient, so I must conclude. 
 
 " M. Bowen." 
 
 On September ist, she writes : — 
 
 " I feel very much comforted by your most kind and 
 friendly attentions to me, and even fancy that I am less 
 lonely and desolate. Indeed, it is not mere fancy, but 
 a cheering reality, to find myself worthy of kind thoughts 
 from estimable minds, when words and looks are 
 emanations of a sympathizing heart. Time flies, and I 
 wish to notice your observations on the books, reading 
 and read, in which treasures of wisdom (human) and 
 learning you allow me to participate ; but I must again 
 aver that I do not feel competent to judge on such 
 weighty matters, and have neither talent nor inclination 
 for controversy. Now it appears to me that Sir David 
 loves it to his heart's deepest centre ; and, consequently, 
 with regard to my poor unsophisticated mind, he 
 succeeds to confuse and confound rather than to 
 convince, to silence but not satisfy, to awaken lofty 
 thoughts (if there were not already such exalted ideas 
 of the great Creator as no words of man could imbue 
 the soul with), but not sufficiently bring to view the one 
 grand event on. which alone a sinner can find rest from 
 weary and painful forebodings, and peace — that peace 
 which the world can never give — to his soul. Jesus ! 
 Emanuel ! is the only name that is sweet and powerful 
 enough to do this. Although I have read nearly every 
 chapter three times over, I still rise fiom the perusal 
 fasting ! It is not a feast to my taste. 
 
 " I was busy with it last night, and am ashamed to 
 say that very trifling and silly thoughts started up every
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 247 
 
 moment (I hope not evil ones). I thought of Peter 
 Pindar — whose amusing stories of George and Charlotte 
 delighted my childhood — the astronomer, seeing an 
 elephant in the moon, and ultimately discovering it to 
 be only an imprisoned fly in his telescope ! Again I 
 took flight in the air balloon to talk with the philo- 
 sopher in the island of Laputa (vide Gulliver) and offer 
 my thumb to be measured for a suit of clothes ; but 
 alas ! the visit was fruitless — all the flappers were absent, 
 and not even a tailor could understand or even hear 
 you without one. I am thankful to descend in safety. 
 I find that at least all are not required to take such 
 wonderful flights into unknown regions ; that the paths 
 of duty are not only humbler, safer, and pleasanter to 
 the generality, but also more easily found than the 
 doings and sayings of other worlds. Our adoration and 
 love need not such stimulants. Give me the songs of 
 the night and the day, and leave the plurality of worlds 
 (of which I do not doubt) to be an open subject for 
 philosophic squabbling, argument, and. counter argument, 
 only hoping that their Christian duties are equally and 
 more usefully attended to. I fear this is wearisome to 
 an intolerable degree. I have something better as a 
 delicacy to mention — I just tasted the nice composition 
 you sent me this morning, very similar to what I call 
 brawn. I dare not indulge very freely, but it will be a 
 bonne bouche for many a day. 
 
 " You will be surprised to hear that I hope to be in 
 church to-morrow ; it is sacrament day. I am to have 
 a seat in Mrs. Forrest's cart, but must meet it at the top of 
 my opposite road at half after nine, and shall probably 
 have to wade through the sands to the church. I hope 
 and must pray for strength according to my need, which 
 must be considerable. My little bed will be most welcome 
 at night, if permitted to return to it ; but oh ! the joy of 
 feasting at my Lord's table will amply repay any 
 exertion I can make. So, begging you to add your 
 prayers to mine, and offering as much love and true 
 regard as heart can proffer and hold, I remain, yours, &c, 
 
 " M. Bowen,"
 
 248 My African Home ; or, 
 
 This letter determined Mr. Feilden to send our only 
 horse to take the old lady to meet the cart " at the top 
 of the opposite road," and on its return I mounted and 
 rode into Durban, and sat beside her at church. 
 
 On the 4th of September she wrote to me : — 
 
 " I do feel quite unwell, not at all in consequence of 
 my visit to Durban — for that was balm of Gilead to 
 mind, body, and, I hope, soul also. I did feel so calm, 
 so thankful, and so happy, even through the midnight 
 hours, that it must have been a blessed hope — dare I say 
 assu ance ? — that my Lord vouchsafed to meet me at His 
 own table, and allowed me to share the precious feast 
 He there provides for them who love Him faithfully. 
 It did indeed make my heart glow within me when I 
 discovered the dear friend kneeling beside me. Oh! 
 my dear Mrs. Feilden, only to think, if we rejoice so 
 much to accompany those we love to our Lord's table 
 on earth, with all the imperfections, trials, and annoy- 
 ances which must ever attend our thoughts, words, 
 and actions, till this mortal shall put on immortality, 
 what words can express, or indeed what heart conceive, 
 the blessedness of that participation we hope for in 
 the Presence where there is ' fulness of joy for ever- 
 more ? ' 
 
 "September yh. — Thus far had I written when the 
 storm began, and I was glad to be perfectly quiescent. 
 I could do nothing, but the chief cause of my uncomfort- 
 able sensations was explained — electricity was doing its 
 usual work with me, so I went to bed before eight. 
 The thunder and the awful wind shook my little couch 
 like an earthquake, and I hoped for a supply of water ; 
 I do not find any in my tanks this morning, but it 
 looks promising. I shall rejoice to learn that Mr. 
 Feilden is better ; perhaps he too suffers from atmos- 
 pheric influences. But, alas ! we must expect a good 
 deal of such weather, preceded by equinoctial gales. I 
 imagine all the coast of Africa may be denominated 'the 
 Cape of Storms.' Nevertheless, we know that no lands 
 are exempt, and we know also and thankfully acknow- 
 ledge that the storm hurts not without the Lord's per-
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 249 
 
 mission and direction. Safety comes from Him alone, 
 and my sure and well-founded trust has ever been 
 placed thus, and has never been disappointed. 
 
 " My watch says it is eleven. The Syren sailed about 
 a quarter of an hour ago. I saw her moving, but had 
 something else to do than stand idly watching her. 
 She might have been at the Cape before now, but our 
 good hopes are blown over the ' Bluff' most unmerci- 
 fully, as far as human means are concerned. Elijah is 
 very civil to-day, but I am confident it is only under the 
 impression that I cannot do without him, and must 
 come to his terms. / wont — if I can help it. Do I not 
 write as if the storm was still about me, and rendering 
 me a nuisance, or very like it ? " 
 
 On leaving the church, after receiving the sacrament 
 beside Mrs. Bowen, I saw her set out homewards in the 
 cart, and found William very happy, with my horse, 
 coming for me. I turned into Mrs. Collins' house to 
 put on my habit skirt, which was all the dressing I 
 required. I wrote to Mrs. Bowen a few days after : — 
 
 " Mrs. Collins begged I would tell you how happy 
 she would have been had you gone to her house. I 
 said I should ride behind the cart, and give her message, 
 but not finding the cart as I expected at the Congrega- 
 tional Chapel, I concluded the oxen (which started so 
 well) had got on towards the bush, and not finding you 
 there, neither before nor behind on the sands, I felt at 
 a loss till William said the oxen could not be such fast 
 walkers as the horse, and that you must have turned 
 into another street and stopped. I was very glad to 
 hear you felt even better for your ride. The change 
 would do you good, but that was a tremendous hill to 
 get down at the end of your day. It was there that 
 Miss James was upset in Boultbee's van. I rode 
 through our bush path with great pleasure, shaded by 
 the trees, inhaling the delicious perfume from the 
 various shrubs and flowers. The sweet white bell, called 
 gardenia, was in almost full flower, but the woodcutters 
 have had no compassion, for one half of them seem to 
 be cut away. Last year the path was worth a good
 
 250 My African Home ; or, 
 
 long ride on purpose to see them, and to smell their 
 sweet perfume. 
 
 " Your beautiful roses made the mulberry leaves look 
 like a basket from the greenhouse. They are blooming 
 in a glass to-day, but the silkworms have consumed the 
 mulberry leaves. I don't know if it is the superiority 
 of your leaves, but our silkworms turned out again to 
 eat when we thought them ready to spin, and they de- 
 voured a great quantity. It is curious to watch the.r 
 mouths going so fast and so neatly through the leaves. 
 A few are forming their cocoons, but we have all ages. 
 The worms come out every day, and, as they ought not 
 to be mixed together, they are a considerable trouble 
 to attend to. We must manage better when we get 
 billions and trillions ! " 
 
 September 8//1. — At the time of the Crimean war, 
 letters between England and Natal were often four or 
 five months in reaching their destination. One I re- 
 ceived had been despatched seven months before it 
 reached me ; another, five months ! Of course we had 
 many disappointments, and my husband became dis- 
 heartened. He had not calculated on taking me to 
 such a life of labour, neither had I counted on the 
 kind of life I went through. I had looked for a sort of 
 Abrahamic life, with flocks and herds, field and garden 
 produce, a comfortable farmhouse, &c, &c. ; in short, a 
 simple working life and easy style, with all things re- 
 quisite about us. I did not count on the tiger taking 
 all our fowls and calves ; the hawk, our. chickens ; the 
 something else burrowing under the iron house and 
 devouring our pigeons ; and the wild pigs ploughing 
 up our vegetables ; and no respectable female servant 
 to be had to help me in the house. Nor did my sim- 
 plicity count upon all the traps set for my husband by 
 cunning men to make him run risks in various pro- 
 mising schemes, till he became quite poor. Still, we 
 lived very pleasantly and comfortably, compared with 
 many of our neighbours. Our little wooden dwelling 
 was clean and cheerful ; our table always liberally sup- 
 plied, with enough for a chance visitor ; the situation
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 251 
 
 of the house was really beautiful, and the atmosphere 
 so pure and fresh that the spirits were raised in spite of 
 oneself. I find myself writing" to a dear sister at this 
 time : — 
 
 " My health is now quite restored, though the glass 
 tells one some plain truths, and when I put on your 
 lovely' little bonnet and mantle, I look with far more 
 complacency on the latter than the former, for it wants 
 a younger face below. I think you would find Leyland 
 looking a good deal older, and with a more anxious, 
 careworn expression, the moment his features repose,"
 
 252 My African Home ; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 I MEANT to have described our bed-room, for it is a 
 curiosity in its way. When Mrs. Miller saw it she ex- 
 claimed, " This is like a ship's cabin." It is more like 
 a storeroom, with shelves on three sides, filled with 
 jars, bottles, boxes, books, a retreat for hanging dresses, 
 &c, &c. The iron bedstead has its head against one 
 side of shelves without a curtain, for our house being 
 of wood, muslin curtains would not be safe, and the 
 climate does not require thicker ones. The door into 
 the garden is opposite the foot of the bed ; on each 
 side are a number of tacks, on which hang shoes, spurs, 
 gaiters, and various other odd articles. Behind the 
 door is my husband's washstand. Under the book- 
 shelves, his tiny chest of drawers filled with sundry 
 useful implements ; his tool-chest on the other side of 
 the door, against which opens the door into our living 
 apartment. Two chests of drawers, with my washstand, 
 and a couple of tin boxes filled with clothes, pretty 
 nearly fill a room of twelve feet square. Above the 
 door are some elephants' tails. A sword, a gun, an 
 assegai, and revolver case form the ornaments round 
 about, and ready at hand, for a shot at a tiger or other 
 disturber of the peace in the night. There are no fewer 
 than three looking-glasses in the room, 
 
 Mrs. Smith and four of her family have been with us 
 for a few days. The boys are always useful and active, 
 and Mrs. Smith is curing our bacon and hams. We 
 asked her to bring Margaret, who was only too glad to 
 come, and her own little child Pollie, of course. The 
 two little girls play with Mrs.Galliers' children, Margaret 
 making herself most useful with her needle.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 253 
 
 Mrs. Galliers has just had a letter from her husband, 
 to say that he is on his way home from Australia, and 
 that he has paid away most of the gold he got, found, or 
 made, in passages and house-rent ; but still has enough 
 left to bring him home and help him afterwards, besides 
 lots of nice things for them all. So he has seen the 
 world at small cost. He did not wish to stay in Aus- 
 tralia, and disliked Melbourne. He was at Ballarat and 
 some other diggings, and found gold ; but there was an 
 insurrection among the people against the Government, 
 when forty of the rioters were shot, so Galliers left them. 
 He returned by Mauritius, and describes the vegetation 
 as finer than anything he had seen. Not finding a ship 
 for Natal, he passed within sight of it, and landed at 
 Algoa Bay, where he now waits for a vessel to bring him 
 to Durban, getting 6s. 6d. a day by working at his trade. 
 His poor wife was quite excited by the news ; she came 
 running down the hill to let me read the letter. Here I 
 must relate one of the nicest traits of sympathy I have 
 met with in a Caffre. Mrs. Galliers sent her Caffre boy 
 to the post-office, and told him she expected a letter 
 from her husband, and, if there was one, to run back as 
 fast as he could. The poor fellow did so, and when he 
 came in sight of her cottage he put the letter on the top 
 of a stick, and held it aloft, for her to see long before he 
 reached home. 
 
 My Caffre, Bonnet, knocked a hole in his shin by a 
 fall lately. It became so bad from a second knock, that 
 we had to poultice, bandage, and dress it with " Brick- 
 hill's lotion," fearing proud flesh. It is getting well, and 
 the lad seems sensible of the attention and care he 
 received. 
 
 These Caffres are a queer set. The little ox-herd told 
 Mrs. Smith to-day that she and Smith were servants, 
 and so was he himself, but his father was not a servant. 
 This is the second instance that has come to my ears in 
 which our servants have been told this. The Caffres are 
 really more free than Englishmen. I think our govern- 
 ment over them is rotten at the foundation. It fosters 
 polygamy for the sake of the increase of hut-tax, since
 
 254 My African Home ; or, 
 
 each wife must have a separate hut. It professes to 
 govern the Caffres by their own laws, but they are 
 refugees, and our Government, in affording them pro- 
 tection, might easily prohibit what we consider a sin. 
 It might be made one of the conditions of protection ; 
 but then the hut-tax would fall, and perhaps it might 
 also stop refugees from leaving their own country and 
 chiefs so numerously. The chiefs complain dreadfully, 
 I am told, of their people running from them. 
 
 It is too early to speak of the bishop's works. He has 
 begun by giving offence, and many think he has some 
 lessons yet to learn. He is commencing largely on a 
 settled plan, and laying out his means upon it — prema- 
 turely, it is thought — before he has sufficiently studied 
 and become acquainted with the nature of his sturdy 
 people. I hear he is to have a cotton-gin sent out. If 
 he can make the Caffres pick cotton, it will be more 
 than any one yet has accomplished. The sugar-cane, 
 which they love, does not keep them all steady, and they 
 abominate picking cotton. Moreover, it is not thought 
 that cotton-growing will succeed in Natal. The crop 
 does not ripen, as in other countries, for a regular harvest 
 of a few days or weeks, but keeps constantly going 
 on, and causes a continual picking over all the 
 fields for months, and that not abundantly at the 
 same time. Then, probably, rain falls and spoils it. 
 The Caffres will not work for a master unless they like 
 him. 
 
 Byrne's scheme, and the Caffre war (which was at 
 least 500 miles distant) played the very mischief with 
 Natal. The place is kept as poor as a starved rat for 
 want of immigrants, but it is working its way " hup " as 
 Wagland used to say, and the vessel in which Mr. Proud- 
 foot sailed lately took away 10,000/. worth of Natal 
 produce The wool trade is increasing, and what did 
 not that do for Australia ? 
 
 Mrs. Smith is platting for me a new riding-hat, of the 
 palm leaf. It is to have a very wide brim, and there is 
 to be an alteration from my last hat, that she tells me 
 she will not make for any one else, in order that my hat
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 255 
 
 may not become common, because she does not think 
 servants should wear exactly the same as their masters. 
 I am going to trim it, and line the brim with one of the 
 handsome ribbons which came from Scotland in that 
 wonderful box of pretty things. I was troubled on seeing 
 so many rich and costly gifts to myself, but it was very 
 sweet to receive such proofs of affection. 
 
 I am surprised to find how long my winter dress has 
 been agreeable to wear this year. It has been the 
 longest and coldest winter Natal has known for years. 
 My sister had slipped a pair of cork soles into a basket 
 of useful odds and ends for our voyage out. I thought 
 the cork soles would never be required here, but this 
 winter I have been glad of them, and also of my pretty 
 green slippers, which would scarcely stay on my feet 
 without them. 
 
 We heard a dreadful story this week. A Caffre has 
 been taken by a tiger in broad daylight close to our 
 farm on the other side of the Umbilo. The poor 
 fellow's cries were heard — even what he said — at a craal 
 near the place, but when the occupants summoned 
 courage to go and look for him, they found his head 
 stuck up in a tree, while his " blanket " (the covering the 
 Caffres tie round them), stick (knobkerry),and mangled 
 body were lying on the ground. Alec Smith heard this 
 story when looking for some strayed oxen. Mrs. Smith 
 begins to be afraid of the boys going about the fields 
 and bush towards evenings, but it is not likely a panther 
 would spring at a clothed person, and it is very rare to 
 hear of their taking a man of any kind. The bare legs 
 and strong smell would make a Caffre more of game. 
 I feel quite safe in my bush home, but of course I do 
 not go into the bush alone. 
 
 We have been much interested reading the accounts 
 of the Crimean war, and the repulse of the Allies after the 
 French had chosen their new General, Pelissier ; he seems 
 to have been rash and headstrong. And poor Lord 
 Raglan is gone ! Pelissier wished to be a Napoleon 
 Buonaparte, and could not. The check was perhaps 
 timely; but, oh, what a fearful war this is ! and no sound
 
 256 My African Home ; or, 
 
 of its conclusion. " In the latter days shall come wars, 
 and rumours of wars." 
 
 September i^tli. — A report has just reached us that 
 Sebastopjl is taken, but that the Russians in retiring 
 sprang a mine, which buried 18,000 of the Allies. It 
 seems not so unlikely to be true. The papers think 
 Austria will prove treacherous. Jane, who lives in that 
 country, has the most perfect confidence in her integrity, 
 and praises her guardedness in making all ready before 
 she ventures to join openly. It is a dreadful war. 
 What incalculable trouble it is working ! What sore 
 hearts ! Trade, too, will suffer, and there was no need 
 of that. 
 
 We are experimenting on silkworms just now as an 
 amusement. We have above 5,000 of all ages, and more 
 coming out daily. They thrive admirably, if well taken 
 care of, being fully as large and strong as those we saw 
 in Italy. The mulberry grows to perfection. We think 
 that if people would have the patient perseverance silk- 
 worms require in constant attendance, cleaning, and 
 feeding, Natal might produce any quantity of silk. We 
 have been successful so far. Next year we may have 
 a whole crop of worms, in which case we must contrive 
 to hatch all the eggs at the same time to save labour. 
 This has to be done in other countries. In China they 
 have apparently as much difficulty in preventing the 
 eggs hatching too soon, as I anticipate we shall find in 
 hatching them all at once. As the silkworm never 
 wanders from its place, we place them on paper trays 
 along one end of the room, the juniors in smaller trays 
 on a side table. Our room begins to be crowded. If 
 we pursue the sport much further we must build a long 
 room on purpose for them. We are planting mulberry 
 cuttings largely; but this year, after using most of our 
 own leaves, we send daily to get leaves from Mrs. 
 Bowen, whose trees are five years old, and the leaves 
 magnificent, as large as two hands spread out with a 
 point at the end of the fingers. It is curious to watch 
 the silkworm devouring them. 
 
 Our pine-apples grow well, and the garden is rarely
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 257 
 
 quite without some in fruit, even in winter. We rode 
 into Durban to make two calls, my husband putting two 
 pine-apples in his pockets for the two ladies, one of which 
 would have brought thirty shillings in an English 
 market, the other scarcely inferior. The ride to and 
 from Durban was very refreshing. We put up our 
 horses, and while my husband attended to business I 
 sat with Mrs. Collins, and nearly made a blouse for one 
 of her little boys. We had gone round by Mrs. Bowen's 
 house, as she wanted my husband's witness to her sig- 
 nature. She was in low spirits, having heard of the 
 death of her dear friend and brother-in-law in Carmar- 
 thenshire, but she said, " As I have sown, so must I 
 reap ! " Poor solitary old lady ! 
 
 The rain storms in Natal are very sudden and heavy 
 while they last. A thunder-shower will be terrible for 
 half an hour in summer, leaving no trace behind it in 
 another half hour, except the refreshing of the ground 
 and air. The houses in the country were all so slightly 
 built and thatched, that the rain frequently penetrated 
 the roofs and sides of a dwelling, creating a general rush 
 to save books or other articles from being injured. Old 
 Mrs. Bowen and I exchanged our lamentations now and 
 then ; hers were always made in a ludicrous way, for 
 I believe she derived amusement even from her troubles. 
 We could both of us laugh over our petty vexations. 
 Thus she writes on September 30th : — 
 
 " From one cause or another, last week proved almost 
 too exciting and fatiguing, and the many uncomfortable 
 feelings of those days have left their tokens unmistak- 
 ably. I have frequently complained of the stormy winds, 
 and now my cry is, Oh ! this rain ! this rain ! Truly, if 
 you could see the desolation caused thereby to poor 
 helpless me, you would not wonder, for my kitchen is 
 afloat, and my paths are mere watercourses. Enough 
 said ! I only hope to hear that it has not been so bad 
 with you, my dear friend. 
 
 " My first view yesterday was not cheering. There 
 were thirty great oxen doing duty with more satisfaction 
 to themselves than to me ; they divided, causing Elijah 
 
 s
 
 258 My African Home ; or, 
 
 endless employment in the midst of rain, that left him 
 better washed than usual. First they went south, then 
 north, then east and west, all day. At three o'clock 
 Elijah drove them all down, taking Mrs. Forrest's to her 
 place. It rained heavily, and all seemed quiet, but in 
 half an hour five beasts came close to the verandah, and 
 I was obliged to go out and prevent further progress ; 
 I did manage to drive them down hill some little way, 
 and returned to my work. The light was intercepted, 
 and I saw the wide horns of a great black ox looking 
 in at the window. I went out with a stick, and he went 
 off with such uncouth capers as were laughable, only I 
 was not in the humour to laugh. I resumed my em- 
 ployment, and was again made the subject of observation 
 by a gr.at red beast. Again I took my stick, and was 
 treated with a variety of footings, neither graceful nor 
 agreeable. They had only gone a little out of my sight 
 and taken a tour round my garden, and then came 
 politely to tell me all about it. I fear there is more 
 rain brewing for us. I prefer stronger beverage, but 
 should not wish to be drowned even in a butt of Malm- 
 sey." [Alluding to my remark that rain-water was as 
 Malmsey to us, so precious did we feel it.] 
 
 " I begin to be quite jealous of those engrossing silk- 
 worms. 1 would not wish to wear a silk dress, were the 
 expense always so great. No moment to spare to give 
 a ray of sunshine to a gloomy dwelling, or, what is 
 equivalent, a sunny smile from soft loving eyes to cheer 
 the lonely heart. Well, well ! I must ' in patience pos- 
 sess my soul/ But it really is a pity my roses under 
 the verandah should ' waste their sweetness in the desert 
 air.' 
 
 " I blush to acknowledge that I am not au fait in 
 making pastry. I fear what I now take the liberty of 
 sending will give but a poor opinion of my talents there- 
 in. The only excuse I can offer is that I have been 
 anxious to send you a few ripe mulberries, but the wind 
 and the rain have united to oppose my intentions, so, 
 out of pure spite, I gathered some in a transition state 
 this morning and roasted them alive. I hope this ex-
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 259 
 
 planation will give you a lively zest in finding out their 
 good or evil qualities. I am meditating a little remin- 
 iscent account of a splendid white mulberry tree which 
 flourished sixty years ago in my native town, and from 
 oft* which I gathered rich white mulberries for many a 
 subsequent year. It had a neighbour, a purple-fruited 
 mulberry, which far exceeded its fair rival in multitudes 
 but not in flavour, and many a scramble have I enjoyed 
 with light-hearted boys and girls beneath that noble 
 tree. Alas ! where are they all ? 
 
 " October \2tJ1. — My mulberry trees will again bear 
 frequent pruning, so please to send when you need 
 leaves. 
 
 " I return all the books so kindly lent me, except 
 Doddridge, which did not come in their company and 
 objects to be numbered with them. He is a dear, de- 
 lightful, quaint old fellow whom I grow fonder of every 
 day. I have now got Sharon-Turner's ' Anglo-Saxons,' 
 which I guess is tough work, and moreover is not what 
 I thought of having. I do not recognize in this any of 
 the numerous extracts I have occasionally met with. 
 Do you know the title of his other work or works ?" 
 
 November ijth. — A case of port wine from England is 
 announced, a present from a dear sister. It is landed, 
 but we have not yet been able to send the cart into 
 Durban to bring it out. We grow busier every day, and 
 our helps fewer. Up at sunrise this morning and break- 
 fast cleared away before six o'clock, that my husband 
 might be early in Durban. William and the little Caffre 
 were despatched on errands, so I have the work of the 
 house to myself, and yet we feel more comfortable and 
 better served without a female servant. William Smith 
 unfortunately is untidy and forgetful, but he is only 
 fifteen, and he is invaluable, so active, willing, and clever. 
 His brother Alec, one year older, works in the garden 
 chiefly and fields. Both attend to the horses, which 
 are not groomed like English horses. The Caffres are 
 " hewers of wood and drawers of water," and work well 
 enough under a master's eye. Some of them clean the 
 pans nicely and attend to the fires. There are two little 
 
 S 2
 
 260 My African Home ; or, 
 
 boys, with nice intelligent faces, and a poor old refugee, 
 who is only good for weeding. He came with lot No. i, 
 so he had to be taken and kept. 
 
 Sir George Grey has just left Natal after a rapid, but 
 very busy, tour to learn its capabilities, and whether the 
 country is worth keeping or whether it should be de- 
 serted by England. He is delighted with the colony. 
 He says it is superior to the old colony of the Cape, 
 and I think he included any other he has seen (he was 
 Governor of Jamaica), and he promises to do all in his 
 power to aid the development of its capabilities, both 
 by importation of labour and by inducing emigration 
 amongst the right sort. There had been quite a strife 
 lately for or against the introduction of convict labour, 
 storekeepers chiefly insisting that bad men would be 
 better than none, because they would bring soldiers and 
 thus increase consumption, &c. Some of us who are 
 settled in the bush (with so many facilities for escape as 
 convicts would have here), thought we should not sleep 
 quite so soundly with our doors unlocked and our hus- 
 bands perhaps absent, and that the morals of Natal 
 would not be improved by the entrance of such a set. 
 However, Sir George has negatived the convict system 
 entirely, and, what is better, he has pleased both parties. 
 There are some tough men in Durban, who will not yield 
 one inch. The poor bishop has come in for it already 
 by imprudent speaking. He has hurt and offended all 
 parties, even his own advocates in the church. The 
 fear is that he is one of the new school making a great 
 point of Old Testament observances. He speaks of 
 " laying the foundations of the Church of Natal." The 
 people say that they are already laid ; that there is no 
 Church of Natal, but that ours is the Church of England 
 in Natal. The bishop must be an earnest, good man, 
 anxious to spend and be spent in the cause of feligion, 
 but whether or not he takes a right view of how 
 the cause is to be best promoted remains to be proved. 
 They say here that his words deny what his acts 
 imply. 
 
 Little Billy Galliers has just been for his daily lesson.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 261 
 
 It is a treat to the child to be allowed to come, and, 
 though but in a very small way, it may be the means of 
 instilling' in him a few useful principles for his after life. 
 Children never forget their first teachers, however much 
 they may depart from their rules. 
 
 Yesterday I rode over early on old " Fox," with 
 William for a guard of honour, to sympathize with 
 Mrs. Bowen in her present difficulties and her lately 
 increased feeling of isolation. She has almost deter- 
 mined to go to England, or rather, to Wales, to her 
 husband's sister-in-law, lately made a widow. She 
 must sell her property here first. It is a great journey 
 and voyage for a lady near eighty to undertake by her- 
 self. She has arrangements to make before leaving, 
 and " the bones of her dear son " to be moved from her 
 garden to the cemetery. Still, she says she would not 
 fear the undertaking, if only some respectable person 
 should be going at the same time, to whom she might 
 feel she in a manner belonged. She " would require 
 but little in the way of assistance," she has been " so 
 accustomed to manage for herself." She thinks she 
 would "die better in England," and if she should be 
 called before she gets there, " she knows in whom she 
 has believed and trusted." I feel very much for her. 
 Her man-servant wants to go with her, but she says he 
 would tyrannize over her fearfully, and only be useful 
 when in humour. She said to me, " You have no idea 
 how he tyrannizes over me, for he knows that if he leaves 
 me I can't get another." I can see it is so. She, with 
 her strong will, that I can believe has ruled everything, 
 has quite succumbed to the will of a young man of 
 twenty-three or twenty-four years, insolent at one time, 
 idle at another, and very pleasant and useful when he is 
 in the humour, riding about at his pleasure, and doing 
 just as much or as little work as he chooses. What a 
 sad picture. She said to me, " There are just two 
 persons on this side the Atlantic that I love, yourself 
 and Miss H. She is a good creature, a truly good 
 woman. She is always going about doing good, nursing 
 sick people, and helping in various ways. She helps
 
 262 My African Home; or, 
 
 me very much, she does so many things for me. She 
 is a good Christian woman ! " 
 
 I said laughingly, " Ah ! Mrs. Bowen, I do nothing for 
 you." She replied so earnestly, " You don't know all 
 the good you do me, you feed both my mind and my 
 soul, you do more good than you know of." I felt so 
 grateful to God for these words, both as comfort to 
 myself with my seemingly small talent, so hindered as 
 that is at every turn by my deafness ; and because in all 
 my intercourse with Mrs. Bowen, I have known so well 
 her infirmity of temper and impatience, that I have 
 always had the calming of that in my mind, both in 
 conversation and in our frequent exchange of notes. I 
 left her much cheered, and hope some good opening 
 will occur for her to go home, where she has wealthy 
 relations who can at least see that she wants nothing. 
 Here she is truly alone in the world, struggling with 
 real vexations, though such is her nature that she would 
 scarcely be happy if she had nothing to struggle with. 
 She never wavers in her hope and faith in her Saviour, 
 and knows that all will finally be well. I marvel at her 
 keenness in earthly trifl.es> really trifles, but it is her 
 nature, and the leopard cannot change his spots. I 
 shall miss her if she leaves Natal. 
 
 November ijth. — Our new kitchen will be slated in a 
 fortnight. It will add materially to our comfort, and it 
 is astonishing how long we have managed without one ; 
 how we have existed in the culinary department, 
 cooking on the ground of the iron house ; or in the 
 open air fenced round with reeds, which last we much 
 preferred in dry weather, as being open to the sky for 
 the smoke to ascend. Truly it was roughing it in the 
 bush. 
 
 " Our kitchen," as we shall always call it, will be quite 
 a snug house in itself; consisting of four rooms and 
 sundry closets for pantries, dressing-rooms, and store- 
 room, these last being gained by walling in the deep 
 sloping verandah roof, which extra walls give greater 
 security to the whole building. We shall make one 
 room our own bed room, and there are two nice rooms
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 263 
 
 up-stairs. There is a master builder with two or three 
 assistants, who, by dint of watching work pretty well, 
 get seven or eight shillings a day, and if they arrive late 
 in the morning, they do not stop to make up the time in 
 the evening. We have put the cottage at their service 
 to eat and sleep in ; but, having wives, they choose to go 
 home on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The joiner and 
 his son ride backwards and forwards every day, bringing 
 their dogs with them. They go home at half-past four, 
 because they live over the Berea, a distance of six or 
 seven miles. It is fine times for them, and I dare say 
 they do not wish that more workpeople should come to 
 Natal, but it is to be hoped there are good times coming 
 for the country. 
 
 Sir George Grey was astonished at the growth and 
 quantity of sugar-cane planted at Springfield ; he said 
 it was better than anything he had seen in Jamaica, 
 and that he would put 600 Caffres at the service of 
 ihe Springfield estate, if so many are required. We 
 hope four bags of our first-fruits have arrived in England, 
 to be pronounced upon. 
 
 Our silkworms have taken up a great deal of time 
 lately. Ours is but an amateur affair, but it grows 
 rapidly, and becomes very exacting. There are some 
 thousands of worms, fine, large, and healthy ; but we 
 have not enough mulberry leaves to feed so many. We 
 beg from our neighbours and send to the public gardens, 
 a long distance. The leaves shrivel under the hot sun 
 in being carried ; then we must keep them fresh in 
 water, and they must be quite dry when given to the 
 silkworms ; so that these pretty little industrious creatures 
 oblige us to be industrious too. They are a great 
 plague ; their paper trays are along the walls, and in 
 every unoccupied corner of the room, making the place 
 look like a manufactory, as a gentleman on entering 
 remarked. They feel the changes of weather. We had 
 a severe thunderstorm one afternoon ; the house shook 
 and groaned, and the lightning flashed in vivid strokes 
 from every quarter, now a deep brilliant pink or rose 
 colour, and again yellow or white. The poor silkworms
 
 264 My African Home ; or, 
 
 felt the storm acutely. They seemed paralyzed, and 
 those ready to spin were ruined, shrinking and shrivelling 
 into half their size. After this came a fortnight of raw, 
 cold, damp weather, and the worms did not thrive so 
 well ; they spun in due time, but were small, and their 
 cocoons not so full. Again warm weather came for a 
 week, and the worms grew amazingly. They seem hardly 
 to have the instinct to move themselves, unless the leaf 
 they are on is quite dead, and the fresh one immediately 
 over them. If pursued on a large scale, artificial means 
 must be resorted to, as in India, to get all the eggs 
 hatched at the same time, which would materially lessen 
 the labour, for that is excessive and exhausting. I have 
 been busy with their wants four, five, or six hours daily. 
 The cocoons are very pretty, and it is interesting to 
 watch the internal spinning ; but I am quite tired of 
 attending to them, and we have already more worms 
 than leaves for them. We shall not have leaves enough 
 for the eggs we have ready for next season. 
 
 We have had two Caffres running over the country 
 for the last ten days, in search of two horses that have 
 strayed. One is found at last, but the other is still 
 missing. 
 
 Our garden begins to look beautiful. The granadillas 
 are ripening in great abundance. We must get rid of 
 the workpeople soon, or, I fear, we shall get little of the 
 fruit. Our figs are beginning to ripen, and smell deli- 
 ciously. The monkeys, I fear, will be at our mealie 
 cobs to-night. I saw a number of them amusing them- 
 selves in the trees to-day, keeping watch, I suppose, 
 over their expected feast. Oxen get in among the 
 oats, monkeys in the mealies (or Indian-corn), poultry 
 in the vegetables, tigers in the poultry, and men in the 
 fruit. A nice garden truly ! 
 
 My husband won a brace of pistols lately in a shooting 
 match. They were given by Mr. Milner, or Captain 
 Milner, who commands the Royal Durban Rangers, 
 during the absence of their captain (Proudfoot) and 
 colonel (the Governor) in England. Mrs. Milner wants 
 me to help her to work colours for the corps. The
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 265 
 
 other ladies will share ia the presentation, but they 
 rather back out from the work. The design is to be the 
 Durban arms under the arms of England. 
 
 There is a sad stir in D-urban just now, about the 
 bishop and the church. Yesterday an opposition box 
 was held at the church-door for collecting alms. The 
 archdeacon insisted on the offertory being made from 
 seat to seat,, but the people neglected this one, and put 
 extra into that at the door. Bishop, archdeacon, and 
 churchwardens are all at loggerheads. The archdeacon 
 locked the church-door, and would not allow a vestry 
 meeting to be held inside ; the wardens took down one 
 of the calico windows, walked in, and carried their 
 meeting. The new clergy wish to carry all with a high 
 hand, and some disgraceful scenes are enacted in the 
 town. Some boys have burnt the bishop in effigy, and 
 he foolishly in court accused a lawyer and a merchant 
 of aiding and abetting, and has been obliged to retract 
 and apologise. 
 
 The bishop has had trouble too in his own household. 
 The nurse, who was to be such a " treasure," has married, 
 and, on being expostulated with, said she did not know 
 there would be white men here ! The governess has to 
 be sent home again ; they think she is not quite right 
 in her head. She was sent to Durban in charge of 
 Miss Barter, that singular lady who has been living 
 amongst the Caffres with a view to Christianize them, 
 sleeping on a mat in a hut, and undergoing various 
 voluntary privations. Her health, however, will not 
 hold out, and she returns to England with the poor 
 governess. A day or two ago, a struggle was witnessed 
 in the street, Miss Barter, bonnetless, trying to pull 
 
 Miss B from a post, to which she clung. Some 
 
 decent men interfered, and brought a charge of assault 
 against Miss Barter, who probably thought she must 
 not lose sight of her charge and only did her duty, but 
 it is painful to think of such scenes being enacted in the 
 place. The girl thinks she is being sent home in 
 disgrace ; the bishop says he will be responsible to 
 her friends, being in the place of a parent to her.
 
 266 My African Home ; or, 
 
 About this time our mail steamer was delayed sailing, 
 it was said, owing to the antics of a lady passenger, who 
 was up the mast one day, and otherwise rendered herself 
 so disagreeable to the rest of the passengers that they 
 said they would not have her on board. My old 
 neighbour, Mrs. Bovven, hearing this, wrote to me : — 
 
 " If the detention of the Lady of the Lake is really 
 caused by Mrs. N., I am almost tempted to wish she 
 might be made to undergo the punishment given in a 
 Welsh town thirty or thirty-five years ago. There was 
 a linendraper, well to do in the world, but tormented by 
 a young, beautiful, and termagent wife. He took to 
 hard drinking, and she not unfrequently boxed his ears, 
 and, it was said, fairly beat him out of bed.^ The 
 mobocracy became aware of it, and carried an effigy of 
 the offender on a wooden horse through the town, with 
 the music of fire-shovels, marrow-bones, and cleavers, 
 &c, and she sat with her face to the crupper. The 
 cry all the time was, ' A Ooden Orse for the ; Ooman ! ' 
 (the lower Welsh of that day repudiated the W). The 
 lady who climbs the mast with oaths and blows, deserves 
 the ■ Ooden Orse.' "
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 267 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 January 4th, 1856. — With the thermometer at 8o° in 
 a cool house, and atgo° in those at Durban, it is difficult 
 to realize either Christmas or winter ; but this year we 
 have made wonderful efforts, and have drank " absent 
 friends," and thought of home. The Collins's all came 
 out to us on Christmas Day, and we dined with them 
 quietly on New Year's Day. Ours was quite a party ; 
 we had Mr. Cope and Mr. Kock, old Mrs. Bowen, and 
 the Scotch minister from Pietermaritzberg, who came 
 with the Collins' family. After many troubles and 
 difficulties were got over on her side, Mrs. Bowen found 
 spirit to mount the horse we sent for her, and she proved 
 the life almost of the party. She thoroughly enjoyed 
 herself, chatting in the most lively manner. She has 
 since told me that it was an immense relief to find her- 
 self so flatteringly and pleasantly received by all, and 
 to get a moment's relief to her mind from the pottering 
 little annoyances she has of late lived amongst, and 
 which bid fair to sting her to death, like a nest of 
 hornets. 
 
 We are looking forward with pleasure to the enjoy- 
 ment of a little greater earthly comfort very shortly. 
 Our new kitchen bids fair to be ready for use soon. It 
 has grown into such a compact little house that I think 
 we shall more than half live in it, and if the kitchen- 
 range prove as comfortable as it looks, I shall be 
 tempted to do a good deal more cooking than hitherto. 
 There are a boiler, an oven, a large open fireplace for a 
 wood fire, besides a stove, which is quite a supernumerary, 
 and I incline to think we shall do better without it. 
 
 The Sunday after New Year's Day, we rode to a
 
 268 My African Home ; or, 
 
 small church about four miles off, in a lovely situation. 
 Mr. Lloyd, our former Durban clergyman (the colonial 
 chaplain), preaches alternately in this and three or four 
 other country places. " Clairmont" is a neat little room 
 lined with white calico, and filled with wooden benches. 
 The reading-desk and pulpit are rudely formed from a 
 tree, with a bit of blue stuff for a cover and curtain. 
 We had the communion ; a form was pushed forward, 
 and a cushion placed in front for us to kneel upon. The 
 little church is in a beautiful field or churchyard, with 
 some fine old trees in it. Twenty or thirty people 
 formed the congregation, most of whom stayed to par- 
 take of the communion. The ground and building 
 were given by a gentleman who lives close by, where he 
 is beginning to grow coffee, &c. He took us through 
 his garden and fields of plantation, and seems so much 
 in earnest that I hope he will not be stopped for want of 
 labourers or means, to carry out his plans. 
 
 The Government system of Caffre management has 
 been very bad hitherto. The Caffre gets his month's 
 wage, tells you he is going to his craal for an indefinite 
 period, and leaves you at a day's notice ; or some one 
 may have offered him higher wages, when you have had 
 all the toil and trouble of teaching him to be useful, and 
 he is gone before you know what he means. Mrs. 
 Galliers and I have each had a Caffre decoyed away in 
 this manner lately, just when they had become useful. 
 I am left with only a useless old refugee, fit for nothing 
 but weeding. Alec Smith is required at the sugar work- 
 ing, and so we have only William Smith — a boy of 
 fourteen — for all purposes, out of doors and in. His 
 little sister, Margaret, however, has come for change of 
 air. She has been ill, but she makes herself so quietly 
 useful as to be a little treasure. She can put her hand 
 to anything, without waiting to be told. She makes 
 the vegetables ready for boiling, and if a Caffre is not at 
 hand will cook them herself. If I mix the loaf, she 
 bakes it better than William does, who is constantly 
 called off for other work. She is only about twelve or 
 at most thirteen years old.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 269 
 
 I will give an insight into our ways and doings. 
 William and Margaret get the breakfast ready, turn out 
 the horses, fowls, &c, &c, and sweep the floor. Porridge 
 forms their own breakfast, and I begin mine with a 
 small plateful and treacle. Then we have coffee, eggs, 
 and cold meat, and any vegetable, if a suitable one was 
 left for warming up. This morning we had beans and 
 bacon ; eggs are scarce, so we did not indulge, but we 
 had a large pine-apple, and the two children had 
 another. We shall lunch chiefly off pine-apple. There 
 are nearly a hundred lying under the table, and no 
 market for them, alas ! They are too ripe to send to 
 the Cape. Soup and vegetables will form the chief 
 of our dinner. We do not care much for beef this 
 very hot weather, it will not keep well. I remember 
 laughing at the West Indian girls at school talking of the 
 delights of calabash ; we are both prepared to uphold 
 its excellence now. It is not unlike vegetable marrow, 
 makes delicate eating, and is very sweet. Young mealie 
 cobs are so good, that I have wondered if my sister in 
 the Vorarlberg has never found out their worth ; Indian- 
 corn grows there. Then we use pumpkin-tops as 
 " greens." Sweet potatoes grow well, and are good, but 
 our English potato does not thrive well so near the 
 coast. 
 
 After breakfast, I make our own bed and attend to 
 the room generally ; but, as we have no fine furniture or 
 ornaments, very little dusting serves, and the weather is 
 too oppressive for me to overtask my poor feet by over- 
 cleaning. My ankles have never recovered strength 
 after my last illness. The dewdrops form on the upper 
 lip, and I am glad to be quiet during the heat of the day ; 
 but in the cool mornings and evenings, I am light and 
 active as usual. Our Sunday's ride of only four or five 
 miles, and the walk through Mr. Thomson's grounds, 
 knocked me up for two days. 
 
 We called on Mrs. Bowen on our way home ; she was 
 looking for us, and gave us each a glass of port wine 
 which did us good. The hill down to the valley leading 
 to her place " Keventrenfa/' is fearfully steep. It was
 
 270 My African Home'; or, 
 
 there poor Miss James was upset in the van, and I only- 
 wonder more people are not upset there. Before our 
 bush path was cut this was our only road into Durban. 
 
 The bishop's despotic conduct has put us all in a 
 panic, and the Durbanites have put themselves in battle 
 array against him. I fear he is imprudent and hasty in 
 his judgment, and he has taken no pains to gain the 
 people's hearts or goodwill, by explaining to them the 
 causes of any trifling change he has wished to be intro- 
 duced. His dealings are too despotic ; neither church- 
 wardens nor congregation are allowed to say a word. He 
 has published a pamphlet on polygamy, that is univer- 
 sally condemned. I have not seen it. Contrary to the 
 experience of all missionaries, he wishes to admit to 
 baptism the Caffre polygamist, without requiring him to 
 put away his wives, urging that as the connection has 
 been entered upon in good faith and ignorance, it is 
 hard (especially upon the women) to turn them adrift. 
 He quotes the Old Testament in favour of his argument. 
 At first sight it does seem hard to require the wives to 
 be given up ; but, if polygamy is sin, we are required to 
 give up our dearest sin — to cut off the right hand, and 
 pluck out the right eye. A Caffre's wife is no more 
 than that ; she is his money — not his wife. He buys 
 her that she may work for him, and give him children 
 to work and to sell. To possess five or six women is so 
 much greater worldly honour and glory among the 
 Caffres. Then if one rich man has five wives, four 
 poorer ones have to go without, for God has not made 
 so many women for one man. Those who are cast off 
 would soon find husbands, and if all accounts are true it 
 would be no degradation to them to be so cast off, and 
 it would be much better for the men to be forced to 
 activity and labour. Besides which, the system is found 
 to be the greatest hindrance to their civilization and 
 Christianizing ; it works ill in many ways. The bishop's 
 publishing a doubt upon the question will do harm. 
 The Caffres begin to argue the question themselves, 
 because the bishop's doctrine is different from what the 
 other missionaries have told them. The bishop, having
 
 MAZABANI, A ZULU CAFFRE. 
 
 Page 270.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 271 
 
 had no working experience,, should have made more 
 inquiries among older missionaries before he went such 
 great lengths. He has probably formed a model scheme 
 in his own mind, and is resolved to carry it out, and 
 prove how it works. He. is an earnest man in his 
 cause, but he may be mistaken in his manner of carry- 
 ing it out, and so I think he is. He expects all money 
 that is given to be placed on the altar in the form of 
 an offertory, and he claims the entire and undisputed 
 disposal of it, whether for poor, for stipends, for decora- 
 tions, or for church building. This is the grand cause 
 of struggle just now. The people say they do not know 
 whether their money goes to the poor, or merely to buy 
 a better dinner for the clergyman. Our bishop is an 
 experimentalist, and not over-informed in the histories 
 and workings of Caffre marriages. If a man had to 
 give up four of his five wives, he would require the 
 fathers of the women to restore to him the cows he 
 paid for them, and I am told that to nine out of ten of 
 such women it would be a matter of indifference. The 
 first woman only can be truly a wife, the others are 
 concubines. The bishop argues that the Old Testament 
 admitted the system, but he nevertheless condemns 
 polygamy, and would not allow it to be entered upon 
 after baptism. He is shortsighted in this ; they might 
 delay becoming converts till it was convenient. In the 
 Church disputes the bishop thinks he is undergoing 
 persecution for Christ's sake ; I think it is for form's 
 sake ; some might think even for the world's sake. 
 
 In a published letter he represents the Durban church 
 to have been raised principally by himself and the 
 Bishop of Cape Town, at an expense of 1100/. out of 
 Church funds entrusted to their charge, beyond any 
 sums contributed by Durban ; whereas 100/. was con- 
 tributed before he was appointed, by the Christian 
 Knowledge Society ; 822/. was raised by the Durbanites 
 and their influence, and 300/. or 400/. more is still 
 required to complete the church. It was unwise, to 
 say the least of it, to claim all the honour and glory. 
 I believe he made a large loan from funds entrusted to
 
 272 My African Home ; or, 
 
 him, to be repaid by pew rents. This loan he took 
 upon himself when he took over the church into his 
 own hands, and abolished pew rents, instituting instead 
 the weekly offertory. I do not think either he or they 
 have conducted their argument in a meek spirit. 
 
 Another source of excitement just now is the total 
 wreck of the Annabella, which brought the mail. After 
 remaining at outer anchorage for a few days, she struck 
 on a sandbank in crossing the bar and stranded. There 
 was said to be sufficient depth of water on the bar at 
 the time. Such of her cargo as could be saved is being 
 sold by auction, damaged or not. The storekeepers 
 seemed to have their year's stock in her, and many will 
 lose by this accident. I hope it will not injure the 
 character of our port. The bay is beautiful when once 
 the bar is crossed, almost embraced by the arms of the 
 Berea. 
 
 Another source of annoyance, is the manner in which 
 my husband has been victimized by Mr. M., with 
 whom he had entered into agreement about the crush- 
 ing of his sugar-canes. My husband writes : — 
 
 " The sugar is likely to turn out well ; the fifteen acres 
 M. crushed of mine produced upwards of 1 100/., but by 
 agreement he was to have one-third of the sugar and all 
 the molasses. In consequence, he made nearly all into 
 syrup, which he reboiled, and cleared about 600/. for 
 what he calls molasses sugar, leaving only 480/, for 
 firsts, of which he claims one-third ! So that, after 
 having all the expense of growing and carting to the 
 mill, 1 get put off with about 300/. He was unable to 
 fulfil his engagement, and left five or six acres uncrushed, 
 for which I claimed damages. He offered 60/. and 
 take the cane, I claimed 105/. and to keep the cane. 
 He proposed arbitration, and I consented, when he put 
 the matter off till he made a fresh arrangement, by 
 which I now have the mill, &c, along with a few more, 
 to work ourselves. He delayed the matter in dispute 
 until 120/. was due to him for rent, and he now sues me 
 for that amount, refusing all compensation. I am going 
 to try if I cannot recover, not merely damages, but for
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 273 
 
 the seconds of sugar of which I claim two-thirds. 
 ' MacCulloch & Poole ' say, molasses are the uncrysta- 
 lizable portion that proceeds from the boiling the cane 
 juice. I seem marked out to be victimised. I am now 
 crushing the five acres left by M. last season, and of 
 course there is a great portion lost, besides the delay of 
 the ratoons. It is, however, making beautiful sugar, 
 superior to any we have yet made. I was offered 30J. a 
 cwt. yesterday; t,$s. is our price. There is very little 
 sugar in the colony, and I shall not be surprised to see 
 it up to40j\ My plantation at Springfield is in beautiful 
 order ; 130 acres all in cane in different stages of growth. 
 
 1 shall finish my last crop about Saturday next, and 
 shall not commence again till towards June, by which 
 time we shall have our steam-engine and distiller at 
 work for rum. 
 
 "Silver money is scarce just now. The Caffres are 
 paid with it, and they bury it in their craals until the 
 hut taxes come in, when half-crown and five-shilling 
 pieces are plentiful, only as black as the natives. 
 Caffres are very loath to part with shillings ; they 
 prefer that coin to all others, because they can count 
 them. They will sometimes rather take two shillings 
 than a half-crown." 
 
 We have not yet got rid of the workpeople from our 
 new kitchen, as we call the roomy addition to our house. 
 They began on the 15th of October. It is all plastered 
 and whitewashed inside, except one room which is to 
 be papered. The whole length of the house is 33 feet 
 
 2 inches x 28 feet. We are trying concrete for our 
 ground-floors in this new building. It does not set so 
 quickly as we were led to expect, but we hope it will 
 succeed ; the house is shut up for awhile, to give it 
 time to harden. Leyland finds he must rough-cast the 
 outside, for the rain manages to work through the brick 
 walls. Lime is not so good here as in England, and it 
 is expensive ; four shillings and sixpence a muid, or 
 large sack full. Gravel is also dear, having to be carted 
 from a long distance. The slates cost nearly 50/. ; they 
 were brought out by the bishop, but he is not ready for 
 
 T
 
 274 My African Home; or, 
 
 them, so they were sold by Mr. L . This new building 
 
 will be a great comfort — a luxury indeed. I wonder 
 how we have got on so long without it. 
 
 People are grumbling at the way in which Govern- 
 ment business is managed here. The sad affairs in the 
 Crimea set all colonial business at a standstill, except 
 what a colony transacts for itself, and-hese in Natal 
 they are not slow to avail themselves of opportunity. 
 Only fancy a council of two, consisting of Colonial 
 Secretary and Government Surveyor for the time being, 
 having it in their power, through the absence or want 
 of superiors in office, to pass and carry a measure upon 
 education, in the very teeth of all the people in Natal. 
 A petition for delay was entirely suppressed and ignored 
 by the Secretary, on account of some accidental in- 
 formality in sending it to himself instead of through his 
 clerk ! A second petition was also ignored, to enable 
 them to pass their measure at once, which places the 
 bishop (I am told) virtually and almost exclusively at 
 the head of the educational system, in conjunction with 
 the Roman Catholic priest, and one of the other various 
 dissenters. No layman or other minister can utter a 
 word, so that — good or bad — if the Queen ratify this, 
 Natal is under despotic government, as regards the 
 manner of teaching and Christianizing the heathen.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 275 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 February 2$th y 1856. — We had a most agreeable sur- 
 prise on Monday last. I was preparing for dinner, 
 expecting my husband home from Durban in half an 
 hour, when a young man, whose face was not quite 
 strange, presented himself. I shook hands and was 
 going to apologize for not remembering his name, 
 when a smile made me exclaim, " Is it Dan ? " and true 
 enough there was Daniel Whittaker, and there were 
 two others outside, one of whom proved to be my brother 
 Andrew — all just landed from England. We were soon 
 very happy together, and presently my husband rode 
 up, bringing a beefsteak in a little basket, and a towel 
 full of fine prawns. In the town he had heard that 
 "Mrs. Feilden's brother" was come by the Jane Mor ice, 
 and his two nephews. He set off to seek them, having 
 had two horses offered, and seeking for a third, as loans. 
 Somehow he missed them, and the young men did not 
 wait for horses. Daniel, being familiar with the place, 
 led the way, and they walked out at once. My brother 
 was most fortunate in getting all his packages landed. 
 The Whittakers landed part only of theirs, as heavy 
 weather came on, and the Jane Morice had to go out 
 to sea again for some days. 
 
 The new house has been built Justin time. The three 
 gentlemen sleep in it, and we hope soon to have the 
 full use of it. The rooms are whitewashed and neat, 
 but the joiner pleads illness for not having yet put in 
 doors and windows. My brother is to have one room 
 for his own, so we have got his bed and luggage and all 
 his boxes, &c, comfortably housed beside him, and he 
 
 T 2
 
 276 My African Home ; or, 
 
 and I made a screen of " wrapping " over the window. 
 At this hot season it is sufficient protection from 
 weather, but in a week I hope the doors and windows 
 will be all right. Andrew is quite pleased with his 
 room. 
 
 After a little, the two Whittakers are to occupy 
 Gudgeon's cottage of two rooms, as their headquarters, 
 which will let them feel independent to come and go, 
 until they fix on their further plans. We shall be near 
 enough to give them any help they may need. The 
 Jane Morice has brought us a heap of nice things and 
 books, presents from our very kind friends in England. 
 
 No time was lost in showing my brother over the 
 coast, and going to visit the various sugar plantations. 
 Leyland and he knocked themselves up daily, riding to 
 one or other, returning each night only to rest, and set 
 out again next morning. We took him with us to pay a 
 promised visit to Pine Town (twelve miles from Durban), 
 where our friends the Collins's have taken a house for a 
 month. This enables my brother to see what the 
 Javanese gentleman (Mr. Van Prehn) has been doing 
 here in planting indigo. 
 
 On Friday night we were to stay with the Ashtons, 
 and we took Andrew with us. They made us all most 
 welcome and comfortable in their very nice house. We 
 dined and stayed all night, and all were very pleasant ; 
 but the lady of the house had most unaccountably for- 
 gotten we were coming ! When she helped me off my 
 horse, her face wore such a troubled expression that 
 I could not imagine what was the matter, as she most 
 frankly said she was glad we had brought my brother. 
 After we were made welcome and were beginning to 
 feel comfortable, she stooped down beside my chair 
 to confess that she had totally forgotten we were to 
 visit them ! There was nothing for it, but either to be 
 offended at so high a compliment, or to laugh at the 
 oddity of the thing. Of course I chose the latter, and 
 burst into a fit of laughter, which set all right at once, 
 telling her she might well go down on her knees 
 to ask pardon. Mr. Ashton's house is beautifully
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 277 
 
 situated, and we can see our own over the country in 
 the distance. 
 
 Next week my brother and husband rode to Maritz- 
 berg. They breakfasted with the bishop at his new farm, 
 where he is bringing up a number of young Caffres, who 
 may some day become missionaries among their own 
 people. They were several days in Maritzberg, and then 
 rode on to Richmond, on the Illovo, for three days, and 
 then on to Captain Stephenson's for three more, and then 
 returned home. On one farm they saw 800 sheep doing 
 well. They have visited twelve sugar estates altogether. 
 
 In the interim I was left at Pine Town with Mrs. 
 Collins and her children. We all returned to Durban in 
 our wagon on Friday— Smith driving, with his wife 
 and youngest child inside. Smith, who has been such 
 a faithful servant to us and is now working at the sugar 
 estate of Springfield, had been unwell, so he got a 
 holiday. He and his wife lived in the "wagon, out- 
 spanning close to the cottage where Mrs. Collins and I 
 were. The wife made herself very useful in Mrs. 
 Collins' kitchen, while her child of three years old 
 played with Mrs. Collins' children— a fine, but unruly 
 family, almost too strong for their mother. I made 
 myself half nursery governess, lecturing the two eldest 
 girls against idleness, and teaching them to sew and be 
 good. 
 
 We were a cheery party in the wagon returning to 
 Durban, Smith's wife and child, Mrs. Collins and all 
 her six, and a girl who nurses baby, myself and my 
 luggage. The *" children pronounced the sandwiches 
 that 5 I had cut " delicious." But it is a weary journey 
 from Pine Town to Durban ; five and a half hours going 
 twelve miles on a hot day. I stayed with my friends 
 that night, Mr. Collins riding home with me next day. 
 But what was my amazement when I came to put on 
 my print dress in the morning in Durban to find it 
 very heavy. I had thrown it over the back of a chair 
 beside my bed ; it was five or six inches deep in mud. 
 On looking behind the chair, my surprise was still 
 greater. A mound of earth had been dug up from the
 
 278 My African Home ; or, 
 
 floor during the night, between two and three feet high, 
 by white ants. To explain this, I may mention that 
 most of the ground-floors of the houses were neither 
 flagged nor boarded, but hardened earth. 
 
 On reaching home again after a week's absence, I 
 found the two brothers Whittaker busily employed 
 tailoring, cutting, and stitching on our dining-table. 
 One had made a very creditable white coat, and the 
 other a pair of trousers. They had made acquaintance 
 with my dear old friend Mrs. Bowen, who had sent me 
 a magnificent bunch of flowers, with " her best love and 
 best flowers ;" truly they were grand. The bouquet 
 was half a yard high, spreading out on all sides. 
 
 The workpeople have delayed again ; neither doors 
 nor windows are in the new house, and we cannot yet 
 use our kitchen. The young men sleep in the upper 
 rooms contentedly, and have taken no cold as yet ; but 
 should rain and storms come they will be badly off. 
 
 Our own little twelve-feet bedroom in the wooden house 
 has been our storeroom hitherto, while the room under 
 the thatch roof held our two spare beds, all our packing- 
 cases, odd boxes, flour, meal, and rice sacks, pumpkins, 
 spare crockery, drying seeds, and our guests when we 
 had any ! Surely our new building was needed, but 
 money is scarce. 
 
 In March, 1856, my husband writes to his mother 
 about his sugar plantation at Springfield : — 
 
 " In July next we commence re-crushing ; I expect 
 to have from fifty to sixty acres or more to crush. I 
 have 130 acres, at least, planted and coming on. The 
 fifty acres, at two tons of sugar an acre, is 100 tons ; at 
 20/. per ton it is worth 2000/., but the present price is 50/. 
 per ton, making it worth 5000/. This looks so well on 
 paper that I fear it is too good to be realized, and that 
 there will be some drawback or disappointment. Still, 
 1 have a fair prospect of realizing a good fortune. If it 
 is good for us it will be so, and you may still see us 
 again in England, occupying the station in life to which 
 we belong ; though, for my part, no amount of fortune 
 can ever make us really happier than we now are."
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 279 
 
 March $th. — My wanderers have not made their ap- 
 pearance yet. I know my brother wishes to see as much 
 as he can, and probably they have visited the Umgeni 
 Falls — said to be very fine — and Richmond, and so I hope 
 that the extra shirt each carried has enabled them to be 
 comfortable, according to the notions of this horse- 
 travelling country, which notions my very particular 
 brother has yet to learn. I have dinner ready for them 
 every evening ; but, as the Whittakers are with me, that 
 makes little difference in my work. I have two bunches 
 of beautiful and delicious grapes from kind Mrs. Bowen, 
 which make my mouth water ; but I keep them, wishing 
 to show my brother some of the grapes of Eschol ! 
 To-day I have been sitting on a great box initiating the 
 Caffre into washing the floor ; for the scouring that 
 took place during my absence left a few unscoured 
 boards considerably the whiter of the two. I regularly 
 lost my patience this morning with a stubborn old lazy 
 Caffre, who would obey no one ; I made him go his 
 message at once, to his evident amazement. My mes- 
 sage was to send him to Mrs. Bowen, with a note and 
 a pine-apple, and to thank her for her grapes. 
 
 The travellers returned at last, after a ten days' ride 
 through the country, seeing all that was to be seen of 
 farms and improvements. 
 
 I find myself writing to my sister on March 12th : — 
 
 " The wind is blowing all my papers about. The 
 thermometer stands at 76 in the shade. It is so hot 
 that I have opened every window and door, and so 
 windy and draughty that I write with my hat tied on to 
 save my poor ears unnecessary risks. Gladly would I 
 put it off if I dared. Leyland is writing in his newly- 
 started little office in the new building, and Andrew is 
 alike employed in his own room in the same new 
 building, where he looks very cool and comfortable 
 without either door or window, which are not yet ready 
 to be put in ; but he feels very hot now and then. Per- 
 haps he will describe his room to Robert, to whom he is 
 writing a long letter ; but other more important subjects 
 may occupy his pen, so I will give you a sketch. His
 
 280 My African Home; or, 
 
 washstand, consisting of two boards on trestles, is on 
 one side of the window, his table and writing materials 
 on the other. The curtain he and I contrived is tied 
 in the centre to let in the air, while a lovely view may be 
 gained by peeping through the opening, over the valley 
 with a part of the bay looking like a small lake sur- 
 rounded by wooded hills. His own pretty little bed 
 stands at the other end of the room ; his boxes, boots, 
 &c, &c, are round the room, and a couple of chairs 
 complete the furniture. And really, though it reads 
 very bare, it looks very cheerful, and his spirits are im- 
 proving since he came. He has seen a great deal in 
 the short time he has been in the colony, riding out 
 early and coming home late. In Maritzberg they 
 breakfasted with the bishop and dined with Mr. Mellor, 
 the magistrate. They saw our friends the Fearnes, the 
 Piggs, and our little house — the cobbler's cottage where 
 we lived two or three months last year. At Captain 
 Stephenson's they met with a most hospitable reception. 
 Their horses being tired and knocked up, they stayed 
 two or three days to recruit, and planned a shooting 
 expedition into the interior, Mrs. Stephenson and I to 
 be of the party. My husband said I was a " brick," and 
 was sure to consent, and we think the party may be 
 made out ; the Stephensons in their own wagon, and we 
 in ours. A third wagon will be required for sleeping 
 apartment for Andrew. We ladies must superintend the 
 culinary department and the wagons. The gentlemen 
 will supply us through their guns with delicacies for the 
 table. I shall be glad to see further into the interior of 
 Natal. Captain Stephenson is a sportsman, and will be 
 a good guide. Three months' trek, if Leyland can spare 
 so long." 
 
 Leyland's visit to the bishop's station seems to have 
 somewhat softened his preconceived notions, for he is 
 sending him his cotton gin, and silkworm eggs and 
 books on the subject, and has written a long, friendly 
 note to the bishop to explain about them, and to request 
 that, instead of paying for the cotton gin, he will have 
 two of his dark pupils taught the Protestant doctrine
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 281 
 
 and the Bible, and sent out to. teach their brethren 
 hereafter of their own choice, if possible. 
 
 We have an overland post to the Cape now, a newly- 
 established line by means of Caffres. I am told that 
 Mr. Collins, our postmaster, has effected a great reform 
 in the Post Office. It is on a "small scale yet, and so 
 may the more easily be remodelled and effectually 
 superintended. Two Caffres carry the post-bag to 
 Maritzberg, fifty-two miles, three times a week ; not 
 always the same two, of course. Two start from Dur- 
 ban at 4 p.m., and they must deliver their bag at 9 a.m. 
 next day ; other two return the next day, and so on. 
 For distances more inland relays are appointed. To 
 one place, however, there are five good-sized rivers to 
 cross, which they must swim whenever they are too 
 high to wade. The post was never so orderly and 
 exact before ; so far, that to the Cape, once a week, has 
 worked well. The men are well paid and well fed. 
 They have scarlet shirts, with a belt and a crown on, to 
 distinguish them as her Majesty's servants. Mr. Collins 
 thinks the scarlet dress will distinguish them afar off 
 and be useful. I am told that when our postman gets 
 out of the town he takes his reel shirt off (as an encum- 
 brance), and redresses himself before he enters again. 
 
 March i8t/i. — 1 have just had a call from Archdeacon 
 Mackenzie. He came about the things Leyland has 
 promised to the bishop, and partly, perhaps, to see how 
 the land lay ; for since the Durban disputes he has not 
 been out, and his sister told Mrs. Ashton she had not 
 the pleasure of my acquaintance, which a little sur- 
 prised me, for we have taken no part in these quarrels, 
 and, after a very pleasant call on herself, she accepted a 
 frank invitation to ride out to luncheon some day and 
 take us by chance. The archdeacon said he thought it 
 a pity they were called Puseyites, adding that, if Romish 
 errors were introduced into our Protestant Church, they 
 would all join in putting them down. We had a nice, 
 long and interesting chat upon the Church and its doc- 
 trines, and I believe we agreed that the life of God in 
 the soul of man will make all right outside, but that no
 
 282 My African Home ; or, 
 
 outside adornment can bring the life of God into the 
 soul of man. There is to be a confirmation shortly, 
 so I named two of Smith's sons as likely to be candi- 
 dates. 
 
 My journal runs off from one subject to another some- 
 what capriciously. In the agreeable visit the gentlemen 
 paid to the plantations of Mr. Van Prehn, an indigo 
 planter from Java, they were told of cheats somewhat 
 similar to those Mr. Feilden has suffered from. 
 Messrs. Van Prehn entered into partnership with a 
 gentleman in Natal, advanced 2500/., and were pre- 
 pared with 10,000/. more ; but they can get no account 
 of how that sum has been expended, and Mr. Van 
 Prehn is now at law " for the first time in his life." 
 It is feared that, if he lose his cause through some 
 want of technical formality in the drawing up of the 
 partnership agreements, he will leave the colony in 
 disgust ; and all would lament such a termination, as 
 every one sees he is morally right, and being a man of 
 honour, a gentleman, and a planter of experience, with 
 influence to bring others to the colony, he would be a 
 great loss. The Javanese Government is not popular 
 with the planters. I called on Mrs. Van Prehn when 
 in Pine Town, and found her a ladylike, pleasant, foreign 
 lady, with great ease of manner and conversation. She 
 has a large, young family. I saw also another Javanese 
 lady, in her native style of dress, a full white calico or 
 dimity gown up to the throat, but a loose fit, tied in at 
 the waist at the back, but not confined in front at all; 
 sleeves nearly close to the wrist. Really it looked very 
 cool and suitable for a hot climate, and not quite like a 
 nightdress, but rather a dressing-gown. They employ 
 Javanese and Burmese servants, some of whom look the 
 picture of the tightly-dressed figures on Chinese screens, 
 but without the gilding and embroidery.
 
 Bush Lipe in Natal. 28- 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 April 17th, 1856. — A fearful flood has half-ruined the 
 sugar planters on the coast. One week ago, gentlemen 
 were riding over the plantations to see if the canes could 
 really be so fine as represented, and all returned with 
 great hopes for the progress of the colony. We were 
 rejoicing in the tons of sugar our canes were to produce 
 in a very few weeks. All looked fair and beautiful, and 
 after so much toil and outlay, it seemed only reasonable 
 to begin to count on the profits. Alas for our hopes ! 
 The river Umgeni rose so rapidly and so high that the 
 whole country in its neighbourhood became a lake. 
 Twenty or thirty feet of water covered many of the 
 plantations. I am told that several islands, one above 
 100 yards long, floated over my husband's sugar canes. 
 My husband and brother rode over to Springfield to see 
 the wreck of last year's hopes, when on the point of 
 realization. Each got a fall by the horse's legs sinking 
 in holes, the ground giving way under their feet. 
 Neither were hurt, and to-day, the waters having sub- 
 sided, they wish me to accompany them to see all the 
 wonders of the flood at Springfield. 
 
 I was soon equipped for the ride, and a ruinous sight 
 we went to see. We had steep, slippery bits of road to 
 go down or up, and I felt my brows knitted a good deal 
 as I held my hand pretty firm on the bridle to be ready 
 to hold the horse up in some of the worst steps. As we 
 arrived in sight of Springfield Flat, we stopped to over- 
 look. The flood had greatly gone down, and most of 
 our cane was there, leaning over its roots, weighted down 
 by the water and sand that had been washed over it. 
 A man came up to us and told us that Spearman's cane,
 
 284 My African Home; or, 
 
 below ours, was all washed away, with another man's 
 stock and half of his oat forage ! Poor men, I felt very 
 sorry. One cane of Spearman's was washed uphill 
 into Mrs. Smith's garden. This has been given for 
 me to eat, at my leisure, at home ; it is a remarkably 
 fine cane, very heavy and large. When Smith was going 
 to bed the first night of the rain, he said-to his wife, " I 
 don't feel quite easy about that horse of Mr. Feilden's, I 
 think I'll go and bring it up to the house-stable to-night " 
 He did so, and in the morning the river was above the 
 roof of the poor animal's shed, and a barrel of tar had 
 been washed away ! The horse was saved. The Flat 
 for some days was a lake, and then it sunk to a swamp, 
 with the course of the great river tracked in water through 
 its midst. After looking for a little, we rode on, but 
 presently had to dismount, and lead our horses down to 
 Smith's house, which has only suffered from damp. 
 Here we had some tea and bread and butter, and then 
 it was decided to go across the upper bank or fields 
 to the mill. This was the worst of our ride ; neither I 
 nor the mare liked it, through the wet, boggy grass. The 
 mill looked a wreck ; I do not wonder at the first exag- 
 gerated reports. The facts were bad enough, for the 
 water had got inside, and had loosened the great sugar 
 pans from their place, and everything had been floating. 
 We were told that an elephant had been carried down 
 the stream, bellowing all the way ; ducks, fowls, and 
 pumpkins were all afloat. Mr. Beningfield had lost 
 100 cattle; the Umgeni rose from sixty to seventy 
 feet. The four great sugar pans — all united, I think — 
 while floating could be moved by the touch of a Caffre's 
 hand ; when I saw them they were moving one with a 
 pulley and six or eight men, without the aid of water. 
 Most fortunately there was no sugar in the mill. Poor 
 Smith was very dull about it. This cane has been his 
 pride ; he planted and watched it, as if it were his own. 
 May so good a servant be long preserved to us. We re- 
 turned home by a cross-cut over the grass, and found it as 
 good as the longer road for the time. There were deep
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 285 
 
 ruts and holes in the new road made by the soldiers, 
 which quite spoiled it. 
 
 The effects of this sadjflood were greater and worse than 
 we at all anticipated, and finally drove us out of Natal. 
 This most unfortunate storm was nearly as destructive 
 further inland. We heard later on that, on Captain 
 Stephenson's farm, the hailstones were as large as pigeon's 
 eggs, and that they killed 240 sheep running on Mr. De 
 Koc's farm. This gentleman with his wife dined with 
 us a few clays after the flood ; he then knew nothing of 
 his own misfortune, the swollen rivers having made it 
 impossible to cross them. One family, to escape being 
 drowned in their house, climbed into the loft under the 
 roof, and lived there upon beans and Indian corn for two 
 or three days, till their signals were seen by a gentleman, 
 who made a raft and brought them all away. 
 
 Some weeks later (June 8th) my husband sent the 
 following account of the flood in a letter to England : — 
 
 "This flood has been a sad disaster; the mortality 
 among cattle and horses has nearly ruined us all ; I 
 have only about thirty-three oxen left out of all my 
 cattie and have lost four horses. My loss by the flood 
 alone is estimated at 2000/., which, coming upon other 
 losses, has crippled and disheartened me. 
 
 " Could ycu have witnessed the flood sweeping over 
 all our magnificent cane-fields, you would almost have 
 despaired ; but it was a grand sight. The whole vale 
 of the Umgeni was one sheet of water, rushing on to 
 the sea in an impetuous torrent, carrying everything 
 before it in its headlong course ; trees, houses, islands, 
 and an enormous hippopotamus were borne along within 
 a few feet from the mill, in which the water rose nine feet, 
 destroying the work of many days, breaking down the 
 batteries, and turning the inside of the place into a 
 complete wreck, sweeping off 300 loads of fuel imple- 
 ments, carts, wagons, cattle, and everything within its 
 reach. The water rose from sixty to seventy feet, and 
 was truly a magnificent sight, though a sad one. Durban 
 had a very narrow escape from being washed into the
 
 286 My African Home ; or, 
 
 ocean. Fortunately, the sandbar at the mouth of the 
 river burst, and in one hour the water sank four feet. 
 
 " We had nearly got all things in readiness to com- 
 mence crushing in May ; I should have had about 120 
 tons of sugar for market by Christmas. You may 
 imagine my feelings, when so much depended on my 
 sugar crop ; that gone, and I was ruined. At onetime I 
 did not expect to see a cane left. The first report I heard 
 was in Durban, that the mill was washed away and all 
 the cane carried out to sea. The back beach was a 
 wonderful sight, covered with carcases of oxen, bucks, 
 poultry, &c.,&c. I rode out at once to Springfield with 
 my brother-in-law. We pulled up our horses on the 
 summit of the hill, to look upon the magnificent scene 
 below us, and were so struck with its grandeur that it 
 was not till I came close to the mill, and saw the sad 
 devastation, that I thought about my own and others' 
 loss. One side of the mill was swept out, a wagon that 
 was secured to a tree had lost its sides, and a large iron 
 sugar-pan was lying there. In the distance, a few tops 
 of green sugar-cane just appeared above the surface of 
 the highest ground of the ' Flat.' Islands of some 
 hundred yards were carried away. In about a fort- 
 night, the water had gone down so far as to enable a 
 few of the most venturesome of the men to go on the 
 Flat, wading far above the knees in mud. 
 
 " One poor fellow had every bit of his cane washed 
 off, except a few roots so buried in sand as to be use- 
 less. Almost all my cane that would have been crushed 
 this season was laid flat, some quite washed away, 
 some buried ; while almost all the young cane has been 
 wonderfully improved by a deposit of rich mud being 
 left a foot deep. So much for good coming out of 
 evil ! The cane in places soon began to recover, and a 
 few showers helped to wash a portion of the mud and 
 sand off it. I may save forty or fifty tons. 
 
 " We commenced at once to repair damages, and all 
 put their shoulders to the wheel. I have got one set of 
 batteries finished, and the other nearly so. We started 
 the mill last Monday, and yesterday brought twenty six
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 287 
 
 bags of sugar to market — two tons — a portion of which 
 sold at 34i\ a cwt." 
 
 This flood has made our house-builder and joiner 
 fear that their payment will not be forthcoming, and 
 they have consequently been very troublesome, and I 
 must name one trait ki our dear old neighbour, Mrs. 
 Bowen. When I went to call on her after the disastrous 
 flood, she said to me in an apologetic manner, as I was 
 leaving, " I dare say there will be heavy demands on 
 Mr. Feilden, and small tradesmen will all be sending in 
 their bills at once, fearing his ruin ; now I have 20/. in 
 the house more than I want, and it is quite at his 
 service." I thanked her, but declined the money, and 
 she said, " Well, I know how people press on the 
 unfortunate, and it is here if you find you want it." 
 
 Had the flood happened a little sooner we should 
 probably not have built our new kitchen ; meantime, it 
 is an incalculable addition to our comfort, to mine in 
 particular, and I wonder how we have managed so long 
 without it ; but except on stormy days we did not think 
 much about the discomfort of cooking under the sky, or 
 in the iron shed without a chimney. Now my new 
 kitchen, with its scullery beside it, and my storeroom 
 opposite, is the admiration of all who see it. The ample 
 chimney draws well, and during the winter months we 
 do not find it too hot to take our meals at its large table ; 
 thus we keep it as a sort of parlour-kitchen, and have all 
 the dirty work done in the scullery or further away still. 
 I have got my china and glass cupboard, and linen chest, 
 from the house in the bay, which we had no room for 
 before, and we look quite snug. My brother's room 
 above is the most comfortable-looking of any we have ; 
 he often takes his visitors to it, and keeps it in clean and 
 beautiful order. I doubt he is a regular old bachelor, 
 and will require a wife by-and-by to look after his things, 
 and she will find them in very good order. I wish my 
 husband was half as particular ; he is only particular in 
 wishing each article put in its usual place, so that he may 
 find it easily. Our two nephews have begun housekeep- 
 ing for themselves in Gudgeon's cottage, which they
 
 2S8 My African Home; or, 
 
 have made quite habitable for Natal. Daniel can make 
 bread as well as I can, and as they are not yet engaged 
 with any business, their housekeeping and garden occupy 
 nearly all their time. I see the smoke rising cheerfully, 
 three or four times a day. They are making the little 
 garden quite neat ; already their beans are starting into 
 life, and they have a fair promise of pine-apples for next 
 season. 
 
 When they want any assistance out of my kitchen, 
 they come to borrow, sometimes a pan, or a dish, or any- 
 thing else. They were pleasant, amiable young men, 
 and gave but little trouble in our house. Still, with 
 having to do so much with my own hands, I was glad 
 when they began to do for themselves, for two extra in 
 a house like ours must cause more work to the cook ; I 
 had to devote my time exclusively to house-work, which 
 would have been too much for my feet and head if 
 longer continued, but no visitors could have been more 
 accommodating or unpretending, and I was sorry to let 
 them go. It was their own proposition. When on their 
 tour lately to see the country, and choose their further 
 course, they walked twenty miles daily. 
 
 I was greatly amused by two of our Caffres coming to 
 me lately, laughing, with painted faces, asking if they 
 might look* in my glass. I laughed at them, and said 
 I would not paint my face, but it seemed " Master " had 
 done it for them. He was painting doors and an iron 
 bedstead, and had blued their eyebrows, painted a 
 moustache and whiskers, with stripes of red on their 
 faces, and then sent them to ask " Missus to let them see 
 themselves." They enjoyed the joke greatly. 
 
 June 2$th. — My dear old neighbour, Mrs. Bowen, is 
 failing fast this winter. I go to her as often as I can, for 
 she says, " To see me is better than any doctor," but her 
 first words to me lately have always been " I am going 
 very fast." I do not attempt to buoy her up with false 
 hopes at her great age, but rather to cheer her with her 
 state and her hopes for futurity. I see a great change 
 in her of late, her mind and spirit are softening, in 
 preparation doubtless for the change, but she is so quaint
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 289 
 
 in expressing herself sometimes that it is impossible to 
 avoid a smile. I took her to-day a bouquet of rose- 
 coloured geraniums that were flowering magnificently in 
 our garden, and asked if she would like some cuttings 
 at the proper season. She replied in a half-whisper, 
 " Shall I want them in heaven ? " She does not mean 
 levity. Just now she is suffering from a bilious attack, 
 and I fear its weakening effects, for no food will stay on 
 her stomach. A glass of hot port wine with nutmeg and 
 pinger was all the support she had yesterday, and the 
 same to-day. I wish I were nearer to her to help her. 
 She has a very respectful, quiet young man as servant 
 at present, and she begins to give in so far as to think 
 she may be obliged to have a woman, i( she can only 
 meet with a trustful and kindly one. 
 
 On hearing how ill she was, I walked across — my 
 longest walk for a long time. I took Friday, the 
 kitchen Caffre, for protection, and he carried a board to 
 throw across a wet spot in the grass, but when we got 
 there we found the wet extended a good many yards, so 
 I said, " Friday, you must just carry me over." I have 
 drilled English into his ears till he comprehends me 
 with the aid of signs ; so he lifted me up like a child on 
 one arm, and set me carefully down at the other side of 
 the swamp, and so again in returning. I smiled and 
 said, " Very nice, Friday." I made him walk before me 
 that I might "bloomer" it through the long grass to 
 avoid being sprinkled with ticks, and whenever he came 
 to anything like a little hole or a twig across the path, 
 he turned to warn me of it, and removed the broken 
 branch that lay in the way. He is a nice, amiable, and 
 I do think, affectionate Caffre. We have taught him all 
 he knows ; I used at first to think him half silly, ior he 
 was always laughing. Once a " sister " came to see him 
 in a pink frock ; next day I went into the kitchen and 
 asked for Friday. The pink frock looked up and 
 grinned ; the girl had given it to him. In spite of being 
 laughed at, he wore it a few days, and then I fancy he 
 discovered th-it it was not a man's attire, for it dis- 
 appeared, and he has shown growth in understanding 
 
 u
 
 2go My African Home ; or, 
 
 since. He seems to have become fond of us. Many 
 times he nods and smiles approval of my orders, or of any- 
 thing which I do that he thinks clever. I wish I could 
 learn to speak Caffre, that I might teach them something 
 better ; but I cannot, and I am much too deaf to pick it 
 up, and I grow deafer. 
 
 It is a good thing to have some useful domestic offices 
 to be obliged to busy oneself with, rather than with 
 books and work. The housework requires constant 
 attention, and keeps up the spirits by its active variety. 
 I speak from experience, being entire housemaid, half 
 waiter, and quarter cook, besides silkworm tender ; but 
 I have turned out against this last, as you shall hear. 
 Great part of our silkworms' eggs chose to hatch in the 
 middle of winter, when the mulberry-trees are at 
 their worst, being so nearly frosted that the leaves break 
 off with a touch, and are good for nothing. Presently 
 the worms increased, while the leaves decreased, till we 
 saw there could not be food enough for all. Then I 
 began to calculate, and came to the conclusion that, 
 unless we can rear the worms on the trees, the labour in 
 this country will not be repaid were silk to produce 20s. 
 a pound in England, unless some less toilsome mode of 
 tending them be discovered. My husband, finding me 
 so disgusted with such unproductive labour, and seeing 
 the leaves to be insufficient, has consented to all the 
 worms being destroyed, except a few of the finest, so 
 to-day (July 7th) I have selected 200, to feed them well, 
 and the rest are to take their chance. We will plant 
 more mulberry-trees, which ought to have three years' 
 growth before being freely stripped. 
 
 My brother has purchased about 1,200 acres of land 
 on the Sea Cow Lake farm for growing sugar ; and to be 
 more on the spot, and so husband his time, he is 
 having two huts built, substantial and well-thatched, 
 one for his horse and Caffre, the other for himself, and 
 the cost of each is to be 3/. Leyland has also had a 
 large hut put up on his part of this same " Vlei," and 
 both gentlemen wish me to go over for a few days, and 
 try how I like the place. They have each a small iron
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 291 
 
 bedstead, that we did not require here at Feniscowles, 
 with a small supply of tea, sugar, meal, flour, pans, &c, 
 and I should not wonder if they make their first night of 
 it there to-day or to-morrow, and Leyland will come 
 soon to take me to try a little of hut-life in the wilder- 
 ness. This kind of education is good for man now and 
 then, teaching many things that cannot be learned in a 
 drawing-room. I expected to find to-day a long one, for 
 they set out after breakfast, and there was no cooking 
 to look after, but the hours have flown ; it is now a 
 quarter-past eight p.m. Neither gentleman intends re- 
 turning to-night, perhaps not to-morrow ; business at 
 Springfield requires Leyland, and Andrew is all eager- 
 ness to try his hut. I tell him, if he cannot manage 
 housekeeping, he must just come back here again. 
 
 We eat preserves instead of butter, which is neither 
 good nor plentiful about the coast. Our English pre- 
 serves are a great treat, but we make some very good 
 from the gooseberries of the country, which are more 
 like large white currants than gooseberries ; the fruit 
 grows within a husk on low bushes. The Indian 
 sorrel preserve is very fine, "Corinda" we call it. 
 The plant is not indigenous, but grows quickly from 
 seed ; it bears a red flower or fruit all up the branches, 
 looks pretty in the garden, and tastes acid, making a 
 good substitute for red currant jelly to eat with venison 
 or mutton. The core or seed-vessel, if taken young, 
 makes a beautiful preserve tasting like crab-apples. 
 
 July yt/i. — My husband sent me six pigeons he had 
 shot, — fine, large, plump things. Some brute visited 
 our fowl-house last night, and took one of our beautiful 
 white cocks, a hen, and a chicken, leaving another 
 chicken dead. This I have had cooked for my dinner, 
 and a real choice bit it would have been for an invalid. 
 We have set two traps to-night. The Caffres say the 
 depredator is an animal — they know by the footprints 
 — that uses a stick like a man ! yet not a baboon. When 
 William Smith doubted it, Friday said, " You will see 
 to-morrow, if we catch it to-night ;" but I do not expect 
 to catch it, these animals are so sly. Poor Mrs. Galliers 
 
 U 2
 
 2Q2 My African Home ; or, 
 
 has lost half her fowls during the last three nights. Her 
 husband feared to go out, so she went out to try and 
 frighten the thing away. A serious fright would be 
 dangerous for her just now, and very awkward for me 
 if she were alone, and taken ill up here. Leyland is 
 remaining a day or two at Springfield to look into 
 various things and workings, so I am alone. 
 
 Our new bishop gives no satisfaction. Power seems 
 his great object ; he has fairly created a schism, while 
 he might have united a whole lot of dissenters with the 
 Church. I hear he has chosen Mr. L (a Uni- 
 tarian) as the medium of communication between himself 
 and his "erring flock" as he calls them. The arch- 
 deacon's sister (Miss Mackenzie) I like extremely ; she 
 has what I call a lovely countenance, without great pre- 
 tension to beauty. The archdeacon has a short, abrupt 
 way of speaking, that is not so taking ; he is in the 
 Durban church. My husband met him riding our way 
 one day ; as he could not turn back, the archdeacon 
 agreed to call on his return, so I got a nice dinner ready 
 for him, but he never made his appearance.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 293 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 August 20th. — We have latterly had so many disasters 
 that my thoughts become engrossed with troubles. I try 
 to remember that not one unnecessary trial is permitted, 
 and I suppose we shall have one blow upon another, 
 till we have learned the humbling and patient lesson 
 they are designed to teach. It surprises me how Ley- 
 land keeps hoping on, though he looks careworn and 
 anxious. My part seems to be rather that of patiently 
 taking what comes, and bringing myself down to neces- 
 sities as they arise. Except in domestic arrangements, 
 where servants are worth so little that ladies must make 
 up their minds to perform cheerfully many of those 
 " menial offices " that " respectable young persons " in 
 the Tunes advertisements object to, we have hitherto 
 been always comfortably, or, I should rather say, 
 abundantly provided. I trust we may daily become 
 more sensible of the mercies we enjoy, beyond many of 
 those around us. I do not know if it was on this 
 principle of teaching me to know when I am well off, 
 that my husband took me lately to try what living in a 
 Caffre hut was. He required to look after some land on 
 the other side of the Umgeni river ; it is rather far to go 
 there and back daily and transact business, so he agreed 
 with a Caffre to put up a hut, such as Caffres live 
 in, for ten shillings, and nothing would serve him but 
 I must go and see the place, and pack up bed and 
 bedding, sugar, tea, rice, &c, to last a week or ten days. 
 I did not greatly relish the prospect, any more than 
 the fulfilment of our play, but we managed wondrously 
 after the second day. Till then our cart of goods was
 
 294 My African Home ; or, 
 
 accidentally detained, the hut was damp, and outside it 
 was cold. There was, however, a bedstead, and enough 
 to put up with ; so we laughed and made the best of it, 
 lighting a good wood fire on the floor of the hut, and 
 looking as cheerful as circumstances permitted. Un- 
 luckily these two days proved gloomy, and we had not 
 with us even a newspaper, or a needle, to wilcaway the 
 time. Leyland had business that took him out and his 
 gun, so he was better off than I, and I was glad when 
 the cart came, and gave me something to do. I opened 
 our small stock of stores, and presently we looked really 
 comfortable, with mats on the ground, two small forms, 
 and a box for our seats. 
 
 Our hut was shaped like a beehive, but instead of the 
 usual hole to creep in at, such as serve the Caffre huts, 
 Leyland had sent over a door with glass in it, serving to 
 admit both our persons and the daylight more freely. 
 The interior was all wicker-work of twigs, supported by 
 tree stems. A screen of reeds separated our sleeping 
 apartment from the main one ; there was no door 
 between, of course, and it was rather dark, so that when 
 I retired to my bedroom I could not wholly free myself 
 from the fear of snakes visiting me from the thatch or 
 the grass. A couple of boards fixed between the posts 
 supporting the roof formed our table, while baskets, 
 fruits, pistols, meat, &c, were suspended over and around 
 wherever any peg or nail could be placed. We had brought 
 over a young Cochin China cock and hen for change of 
 air, and we had to let them sleep inside the hut. How- 
 ever, they did more good than harm, for they picked up 
 all the insects, and 1 dare not tell English ears what 
 numberless insects, especially ants, become familiar to 
 us in warm climates. Our hut was on the site of a 
 former craal, and the stalks of the mealie garden were 
 all around. 
 
 One day Leyland, seeing some nice dry firewood 
 beside a solitary bush, told Caffre Tom (who had come 
 back to us) to fetch the wood. Tom shook his head ; 
 he could not disturb that bush, it marked the grave of a 
 Caffre. Then we learned that, when the head or chief
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 295 
 
 of a craal dies they bury- him and leave the spot, de- 
 stroying their huts. This had been the father of our 
 nearest neighbour, whose craal was on the summit of a 
 hill ; a favourite situation, and wisely so. The Caffres 
 showed great curiosity about us, both men and women 
 coming to see us. They brought us presents of Cafifre 
 beer, and got a lump of bread and beef, or some sugar, 
 in return, with which they were greatly pleased. Their 
 beer or " chuwallah," made from mabile or Caffre corn, 
 is a pleasant enough sour drink, but not inviting in 
 appearance. One day the chief of the craal came when 
 we were going to dine. He seated himself on the box 
 against the side or wall, and chatted. How Leyland 
 and he kept up the conversation I do not know, for 
 neither knew much of the other's language. However, 
 when the man rose to go, Leyland made him easily 
 understand that he must stay and have some dinner, 
 which was handed to him from our table ; first soup, 
 then meat, and a tin mug of tea. I suspect he did not 
 often get so many varieties at a meal, and he went away 
 delighted. We saw him several times, and when we 
 left we put the hut with a few things in his charge, his 
 craal being near at hand. One day he appeared at 
 Smith's house at Springfield to say that they must send 
 and take away our things, for the hut had been entered, 
 and he would have no more charge. Nothing had been 
 taken, however. 
 
 One day we had quite an influx of callers of a different 
 style. Three gentlemen, my brother and Mr. Arthur 
 Eastwood ; two of them stretched themselves in a sitting- 
 posture on the floor mats, looking, as I am sure they 
 felt, very comfortable indeed, and enjoyed the bread 
 and butter with a glass of wine, which were handed 
 down to them by the more fortunate possessors of the 
 forms. We had only two tumblers (and they were 
 borrowed) and one mug. The last had to do double 
 duty daily, for Leyland and I regularly shared in it. We 
 had a quart mug of tea on the table at breakfast, dinner, 
 and tea. The kettle was almost always beside the fire 
 on the ground ; the teapot belonged to the camp-kettle.
 
 296 My African Home ; or, 
 
 The Caffre made a small pan of porridge every morning, 
 which we ate with treacle, milk not being procurable. 
 A shelf on one side held our small stores ; on the floor 
 below were bags of meal, &c, &c, our saddles and 
 bridles, gutta-percha wash-hand basin and jug, with a 
 watchman's rattle to summon the Caffres from a dis- 
 tance. We took only two soup plates (not having 
 calculated for visitors), three fiat plates, and two tin 
 ones belonging to the camp-kettle, so that our house- 
 keeping was not on a very extensive scale. 
 
 We took long walks and rambles together, when I 
 learned, or re-learned, the use of my legs in climbing 
 hills. On horseback, aiso, we had some scrambles up 
 and down hill, through long grass that almost buried 
 us, and under bushes with thorns of a finger-length and 
 more, over and under. 
 
 One day in our ride we called at a house where we 
 found the family seated round a table writing French 
 verbs, the mother, a Frenchwoman, with her sewing, 
 in the midst of them. Another day, after a three hours' 
 ride at a walking pace, we unsaddled at a farm, and 
 finding only Caffres about the house, made them give 
 our horses a feed of mealies, while we sat on a log of 
 wood and ate our bread and beef, which luckily we 
 took with us. I enjoyed myself very well, but on the 
 whole I was very much pleased to go home again, 
 for 1 never could sit down comfortably to any one 
 pursuit in our hollowed-out haystack — for such was its 
 appearance. 
 
 Our Feniscowles looked so nice and clean and cul- 
 tivated after the rough unploughed land, as we rode 
 home across the fields and caught the first view of it, 
 with the garden below. My brother says that the 
 sketch I have made of the place does not do it half 
 justice, and my husband says I must make another, 
 showing the new building which adds so infinitely to 
 our comfort. 
 
 After our return, my husband had to make another 
 journey to Richmond, on the Illovo. Thinking we 
 miffht wish to return there for change of air the next
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 297 
 
 summer, we left a large heavy box containing useful 
 dishes, pans, &c, wh ch we did not require to use. The 
 man whose house we occupied willingly allowed the 
 box to remain free of charge, as it in no way incon- 
 venienced him ; but he re-let his cottage with the box 
 in it, and his tenant, at the end of a year and half, 
 claimed 2/. for storage. This was so manifestly an 
 imposition that Leyland resolved to resist it, and sent 
 orders for the box to be instantly given up, or law 
 would be resorted to. The tenant still refused, so my 
 husband rode to Richmond, conducted his own case 
 before the magistrate, and gained it with costs, but he 
 had to put an execution in the house before the man 
 would give up the box. 
 
 On his ride home my husband stopped at Captain 
 Stephenson's farm, when his horse being turned out to 
 feed took itself off, and was not to be found. Leyland 
 required to be at home, so catching a horse from a 
 herd of Mr. De Koc's, he saddled it and rode towards 
 home by moonlight. When he got near Mack's farm, 
 still twelve miles from home, it was midnight ; but by 
 the strong light of the moon he saw a quantity of 
 mushrooms, and dismounting, filled his handkerchief as 
 full as it would hold, rode on to the farm, and roused 
 the household to take him in. It is their busy time 
 making sugar; the extra men employed were sleeping 
 on the floor of the kitchen, but they made him welcome 
 to share it with them, and enjoyed some of his mush- 
 rooms at breakfast in the morning. After breakfast, he 
 rode on home. I had been wondering and calculating 
 when and how he had been detained, and was en- 
 deavouring to secure there being a basin of good soup 
 ready for him at any moment of his arrival. That 
 morning, when he did not appear by ten o'clock, I 
 thought, "Now I am safe till afternoon. I'll send 
 William and the Caffre boy for what we want from 
 Durban, and they'll be back in time to take Leyland's 
 horse, if he should come to-night." I sent them off, 
 and made all straight, looked down the bush-path, and 
 across the hill many times, but there were no signs of
 
 298 My African Home ; or, 
 
 Leyland. "A watched pot never boils," said I to 
 myself, so I took my work-basket about half-past eleven, 
 and commenced mending his socks. Somehow, I be- 
 came buried in thought as my needle went on ; I 
 fancied I heard a sound outside, but had been out 
 so often and found nothing - , that I paid no attention, 
 my head bent over my work and my brows, I believe, 
 knitted. I lifted my head at last, and there, seated on 
 the sofa opposite, looking at me, sat Leyland. He did 
 not half like the look of care he found on my face, and 
 which he said he had been watching " this half-hour," 
 but, of course, that was speaking without his watch. 
 
 We have certainly had drawback after drawback, but 
 our chief one has been want of practical colonial ex- 
 perience to begin with. 
 
 We are hoping just now for a little rain to water the 
 seeds and newly planted fences of pomegranates and 
 mulberry-trees. The latter can be interwoven, Leyland 
 thinks, to make a secure living fence, to keep out some 
 of those troublesome wild visitors that eat up all our 
 vegetables before we can gather them in. My brother 
 enjoys the novel and active life he is having, helping to 
 erect his own hut, and planning the cultivation of the 
 acres he has lately become the master of on Sea Cow 
 Vlei. He has got Henry, the youngest of Smith's sons, 
 to help him, but his Caffre, Jim, like ours, has gone 
 to his craal for a month's holiday, so we all have to 
 manage as best we can. For my part, I have been 
 making an ogre of myself to the young Caffre I got 
 instead of Friday, who has gone home for a wife to 
 live in idleness, and when he is " tired of being at 
 home" he will come back here to us. Is not that a 
 favour ? Yet we have to submit, for Government does 
 nothing but help the Caffre to be idle. How they mean 
 to civilize or Christianize in the petting way they are 
 going on I do not know. But my boy Caffre has really 
 improved under my fierce anger ; and, except that I 
 have to follow him like his shadow, he shows both 
 quickness and aptitude. He has got hold of the English 
 word " yes," and provokes me by saying " yes " to
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 299 
 
 everything, so that I never know that a thing is done 
 or not without going to see. If he were not a little 
 afraid of me he would sit and snuff all day, and perhaps 
 spit craals on the sand, if he have any talent for drawing, 
 as I have seen some of them. 
 
 It was very provoking in Friday to go away just 
 when he had become so useful, and I had drummed 
 into his head so many English words. It seems that 
 the " sister " who came to see him, who gave him her 
 pink frock, is the girl who is to be his wife. He 
 left in a state of considerable excitement, carrying his 
 worldly goods on his shoulder, neatly rolled into his 
 sleeping mat and tied at each end. I saw him the day 
 before he left, very mysteriously busy with a knife and 
 stick. When I asked what he was doing, he laughed, 
 but said nothing. By-and-by, he came and presented 
 to me a beautifully pealed white wand or switch, to use 
 as a riding- whip. It is of the white pear-tree, and supple ; 
 I value it much, as the most gallant and grateful act I 
 have met with in a Caffre, and I brought it with me to 
 England in remembrance of Caffre Friday. 
 
 My neighbour, Mrs. Bowen, got into a sad scrape the 
 other day, and sent for my husband to help her out. 
 A servant, for whom she was in half treaty, behaving 
 impertinently, she ordered him to take himself off, upon 
 which he sent her a lawyer's letter for his travelling 
 expenses and loss of time, which so irritated her that 
 she tore his bill in two, and sent for my husband, who 
 advised a compromise and paying the man a reasonable 
 sum ; but the lawyer, wishing to put something in his 
 own pocket, allowed only Sunday to elapse, and sent up 
 an extra demand by a man on horseback on Monday, 
 adding that if it were not settled before the following 
 morning, she — at seventy-nine years of age, alone in the 
 world, living out in the country (without either wagon 
 or horse) — must appear in court to the summons on 
 Wednesday morning. It was growing dusk, and she 
 had but a 'little boy and a Caffre at hand. Calling the 
 boy, she said, "Johnnie, I don't know what to do; if 
 this is not settled to-morrow morning, I shall have to
 
 3co My African Home ; or, 
 
 appear in court." "Weil!" said Johnnie, "if you will 
 let the Caffre go with me, I will start off to-night and 
 return to morrow morning." He did so, and her friend 
 in Durban hunted over the town to find the people, 
 arranged the matter and got her off for 2/., instead of 
 near 4/. 
 
 September 2,Otk. — My husband is writing to'his mother, 
 and I am writing to mine. I am seated at a large table 
 that is placed along the end of the kitchen, which 
 room we somehow make both kitchen and dining-room, 
 and often prefer sitting in it in the evenings from the 
 cheerfulness and convenience of the fire. We have 
 visitors, the Rev. Mr. and Miss Fearne (Miriam) from 
 Richmond, and a very worthy couple, Mr. and Mrs. Pigg, 
 from the same neighbourhood. My brother has carried 
 off the clergyman to see his hut at Sea Cow Vlei, to get 
 a little fishing in the river, and to look out for sea-cows 
 or hippopotami for a couple of days. The two Mr. 
 Whittakers have come over, and are helping Mr. Pigg 
 to mend the roof of our old rickety stable, so they are 
 also visitors, and must sleep on the sofa, the floor, or the 
 table, or Mr. Fearne's bed during his absence. Mr. 
 Fearne's health being very delicate, we invited him to 
 come to us for relaxation and change of air, and ten 
 days have made a great improvement in him. He takes 
 Archdeacon Mackenzie's duties in Durban, while the 
 archdeacon and his sister are enjoying a change of duty 
 at Maritzberg ; and to make the change trifold, the 
 Maritzberg clergyman, Mr. Greene, takes Mr. Fearne's 
 duties at Richmond. Miriam is a fine, bright, lively, 
 fair girl, with a good deal of character. She has been 
 six months with Mrs. Colenso, at school, and likes it. 
 The "grey sisters" teach, and Mrs. Colenso has given 
 her lessons in drawing. They teach a number of natives 
 at the new station, three miles out of Maritzberg. My 
 husband has been giving a few lessons in English reading 
 to two of our Caflres, both desirous to learn. The little 
 boy is very quick, and it seems to me the best plan is to 
 teach in English, for then you know you are right, and 
 they take great interest in learning the meaning of new
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 301 
 
 words. The bishop, I believe, is learning Caffre, to teach 
 them in their own language, and the shrewd CafTres 
 must laugh at his blunders among themselves. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Pigg were among the 250 emigrants 
 who came out in the ship that brought my husband the 
 first time to Natal. He observed their behaviour on 
 board as so superior to that of others that he has kept 
 up an acquaintance with and interest in them, and when 
 we were staying at Richmond last year we became quite 
 friendly. They have two grown-up sons ; a daughter, 
 married out here, died very suddenly lately, and when 
 my husband found them in grief, and ill both in mind 
 and body, he asked them to come to us for a little 
 change. Mr. Pigg is a joiner, and amuses himself with 
 finishing bits of work undone or badly done about our 
 new building, while Mrs. Pigg is a great assistance to me 
 in the house. Whenever she sees me pressed in any 
 way, she helps. If anything is wanting at table, I have 
 only to give her a look, and she rises to get it. As it 
 would be impossible for me alone to do the extra house- 
 work with so many visitors, we each take charge of our 
 own room, and now one, now another, puts Mr. Fearne's 
 in order. Miss Fearne occupies my brother's room, so 
 when he is with us he sleeps on the sofa in the parlour, 
 and prefers making his own bed his own way. 
 
 Miriam has taken the silkworms in hand, but she 
 begins to find it rather fatiguing and tiresome to keep 
 their trays clean and nice, and to supply their voracious 
 appetites with leaves. Our present set of worms are 
 very fine, and take a great deal of attendance, so Miriam 
 has enlisted little Billy Galliers to help her. Just now 
 they are beginning to spin ; every one lent a hand 
 the other evening after tea, to make little paper cones 
 for their reception. The kitchen was quite a manu- 
 lactory ; Mr. Fearne, Leyland, Mr. and Mrs. Pigg, were 
 twisting up these papers, Miriam and I stitching them 
 on to a large sheet of the Manchester Guardian, all of 
 us seated round the large table, as busy as ants. My 
 time is so fully occupied that, if I sit down to read or 
 sew for a quarter of an hour during daylight, I feel
 
 302 My African Home ; or, 
 
 like a culprit. We rise early ; I go and see if Tom 
 has made the fire and put on the kettle. As soon as I 
 am dressed, I hurry to get breakfast ready, having set 
 Tom to prepare as much as he can. We require a 
 hearty breakfast. This morning when I went out at 
 half-past six, I found Mrs. Pigg had got the rice on the 
 fire, and was warming up the curry, and just i'rf the act 
 of placing a salt fish on the grid. Bread, butter, and 
 abundance of tea completed the meal, with preserves, 
 eggs, &c, &c. The bell rang for breakfast at seven, 
 but it was eight before it was over and prayers read. 
 
 We dine at two o'clock. Soup is a standing dish, so 
 that must be prepared, the vegetables made ready for 
 the pan, and the meat closely and carefully examined. 
 An English lady would shrink from the inspection I 
 daily make, but I prefer doing it myself, for I find I 
 am quite the most particular and effectual in the exa- 
 mination that must be made, if sweet beef is to be 
 eaten. Tom attends the fire, cleans the pans and 
 knives, fetches and cuts the wood. I lay the dinner- 
 cloth and see that all is right on it, and after dinner 
 Tom washes up. Then we take a little stroll in the 
 garden, look for ripe papaws, call a light Caffre to climb 
 the stem, and bring the fruit down ; look at our pine- 
 apples, and pick out such as are ready. We have 
 splendid desserts ; our fruits would grace a Lord 
 Mayor's banquet. A bunch of bananas is sometimes 
 too heavy for me to carry, almost to lift. We boil a 
 papaw fruit to eat with rice and sugar. The .scarcity 
 of milk prevents many puddings being made. Pastry 
 is not relished, so our desserts serve for second course. 
 
 Last Monday was my husband's birthday, so I made 
 with my own hands a capital suet dumpling, and Mrs. 
 Pigg boiled a papaw to put round a pyramid of fine 
 Carolina rice, a bag of which, with other good and use- 
 ful things, has just arrived from England from Lady 
 Feilden. We mean to have a party on the 8th of 
 October, our marriage anniversary, when a silver cup is 
 to be presented to Smith, our worthy and hardworking 
 farm-servant, to express my husband's appreciation of
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 303 
 
 the manner in which he has planted the sugar estate. 
 The cup was ordered from England when we were in 
 the highest expectation of reaping a good harvest; and 
 now the flood has carried it all away, and we know not 
 yet how deeply it will involve us in loss. But Smith's 
 work was all the same, and his vexation and disap- 
 pointment are as great as ours, so he is to have the 
 cup, and we. feel he deserves it.
 
 304 My African Home ; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 " October tyh. — My dear Mrs. Bowen, — We want 
 you to come and dine with us at two o'clock on Wed- 
 nesday next, the 8th, if you will be so good. Mr. 
 Feilden will send the mare and a trustworthy leader for 
 you, and to take you home again before dark. Do 
 please come. It will not be exactly such a party as 
 we would have invited to meet you, but we think it will 
 give you pleasure to come. On that day we shall have 
 been married five years. Hitherto we have spent the 
 anniversary by our two selves, but Mr. Feilden wishes 
 to give Smith some testimony of his respect for his 
 faithful and diligent services, so uncommon in Natal, 
 and we have invited him and his family, and the party 
 has grown out of this. We count six, my brother and 
 the Whittakers make nine, two or three more will 
 make up a good number, and we hope you will help to 
 eat our haunch of venison, shot yesterday on purpose. 
 It will give us all sincere pleasure and gratification. 
 My husband walked from Springfield, giving up his 
 horse to carry the fine large buck, which Caffre Tom 
 was proud to conduct." 
 
 The day previous to our party every one lent a help- 
 ing hand. A temporary shed was erected and thatched, 
 the sides hung with matting, and ornamented with ever- 
 greens and wild flowers. At one o'clock our guests 
 began to arrive, and at two we sat down to " an elegant 
 entertainment," as the reporters would say. All our 
 silver was put in requisition, and with the flowers, &c, 
 the table in the shed looked bright and gay. After 
 dinner, Mr. Fearne rose, and in a kind and amusing
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 305 
 
 speech proposed our healths, to which Leyland re- 
 plied, and at the same time took all by surprise with 
 the silver cup, filling it to the brim with excellent 
 punch, and presenting it to Smith, with a speech which 
 was reported in our local paper, The Mercury. The cup 
 was passed round the table, and each took a sip to 
 Smith's good health. His wife said he was " too full to 
 speak." 
 
 Every one was in the best of tempers. Caffre Tom, 
 our only house-servant, exerting himself to clean pans, 
 knives, and plates, and to keep up the fire, &c, &c. ; but 
 he found so good an assistant in Mrs. Pigg all the time 
 she was with us (near a month), that we thought he 
 rather imposed upon her in a common way, and hoed 
 the garden instead of cooking. 
 
 We sent Alec Smith with the mare to bring Mrs. 
 Bowen. She was delighted, and enjoyed herself fully ; 
 but, fearing rain, she left our party rather early. She 
 presented me with some affectionate lines she composed 
 for the occasion, and two glasses of preserves of her 
 own making from the " corinda " or Indian sorrel plant, 
 an excellent addition to venison. 
 
 Besides the party already named, Leyland had 
 invited the editor of the Natal Mercury, as an old 
 acquaintance of Mr. Fearne, who expressed a wish to 
 see him again ; a young Frenchman, with his bride ; 
 the Springfield sugar-boiler from Mauritius ; our friend 
 Mr. Kock, and little Billy Galliers, whose invitation 
 gave great delight both to the child and his mother, and 
 he and little Polly Smith (six and four years old) 
 formed quite a picture, walking up and down the garden 
 arm-in-arm, behaving so well at dinner, and enjoying 
 the good things as much as any one. 
 
 Our table and seats were made of boards, covered 
 first with a rough coarse sheeting, and over that with 
 Lady Feilden's beautiful damask table-cloth. I had 
 hard work to get dressed in time, in one of my pretty 
 muslins. I managed it, however, just in time to receive 
 and help Mrs. Bowen off her horse, and take her into 
 the house myself. 
 
 X
 
 3<d6 My African Home ; or, 
 
 Tea and coffee-cups with our silver set, a beautiful 
 currant bun, and small cakes made by Mrs. Pigg, were 
 all placed ready in the drawing-room, with flowers, and 
 I can assure you that it was a beautiful and well-behaved 
 party, and was richly enjoyed. 
 
 In the evening those who remained, consisting of 
 fourteen of the party, cleared the room to prepare for 
 some kind of amusement. Mr. Fearne suggested 
 charades, himself assisted, and very much tended to 
 their going off with the greatest eclat and clapping of 
 hands, the Whittakers, Andrew, Leyland, Mr. and 
 Miss Fearne, and myself all taking parts. The words 
 acted were generally guessed to all outward appearance ; 
 but, in truth, Leyland or I, being behind the scene 
 helping to dress them up, whispered the word at the 
 last to the other, so as to give more fun. The C a fires 
 peeped in at the windows. We lodged fourteen persons 
 that night ! Miriam took Mrs. Smith into her room 
 with the two children, Margaret and Polly Smith ; 
 Andrew and the Whittakers, Smith and his boys 
 managed with sofas and shakedowns. 
 
 All hands helped to clear away, as they had done to 
 prepare ; fifteen supped and breakfasted, so mirth and 
 work went together, and I heard no complaints of 
 a bad night's rest. Mrs. Smith says she is sure 
 neither she nor Smith, nor his children, will ever forget 
 the day. So substantial was our dinner, that we needed 
 not to send for butcher's meat for a week. 
 
 I think I must describe the dinner more particularly. 
 We began with soup and fish. Mrs. Smith sat at a 
 convenient corner of the table, and slipped away to see 
 everything rightly dished ; but much was cold, and 
 placed on the long table to begin with. Tom carried 
 in the dishes, then sat on the floor, washing knives and 
 plates ; but we had placed a good supply of these to 
 each person's place, so that very little waiting was 
 required. Soup and fish were removed by the haunch, 
 cold beef, cold venison pie, hot fowls, and a beautiful 
 ham from Richmond, tarts and tartlets — no creams or 
 jellies, but a dish whose contents were eagerly devoured —
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 307 
 
 a pyramid of Carolina rice, beautifully boiled and white, 
 surrounded by boiled mulberries. Carolina rice is not 
 sold in Natal, but the very inferior small grained East 
 Indian, so Lady Feilden's was a treat. In describing 
 the dessert, I need only say that our papaw fruits are 
 some as large as my head, a banana fruit (from a 
 heavy large bunch) six and a half inches long. This 
 grand bunch formed the centre dish ; pine-apples and 
 papaws all up and down the table ; the granadillas 
 are hanging in clusters, and our vines look beautiful. I 
 have often wished I could send a bunch of our grand 
 bananas to Witton to Mr. Feilden, where first I saw and 
 tasted that fruit. There a few small fruits were handed 
 round as a delicacy, here each one helped himself to as 
 many as he pleased. Another fruit, the loquat, will 
 soon be ripe ; this is a delicious fruit, rather larger 
 than a crab-apple, and something of that fine yellow 
 colour. 
 
 But I must proceed to give Mrs. Bowen's congratu- 
 latory verses. They are : — 
 
 To my dear Friends, J. L. and E. W. Feilden, on the 
 Fifth Anniversary of their Wedding Day. 
 
 " Tis well to offer the new made bride 
 
 A wreath of fair orange flowers, 
 And to pray that our sweets may be outvied 
 
 By the fragrance of future hours. 
 And then 'tis well to see her move 
 
 In a grave yet graceful mood, 
 Through rough and smooth with winning love, 
 
 Cheerfully leading to good. 
 And is it not well when years are gone by, 
 
 And the trials of life may be known, 
 To view that sweet sympathy beam in each eye, 
 
 Which tells of affection alone ? 
 Yes ! 'tis well, and 'tis sweet, and joyous we hail 
 
 The return of that hallowed day, 
 Which blest your true faith and love never to fail, 
 
 Nor even with life to decay. 
 For the Lord, the Creator, who bless'd the first Bride, 
 
 Still sanctifies vows heard above, 
 Nor doubt ye, that holier, glorified 
 
 In Heaven, you still shall love. 
 
 "Oct. 7th, 1856. M. Bowen." 
 
 X 2
 
 308 My African Home ; or, 
 
 The next day I find myself writing to Mrs Bowen : — 
 
 " I am glad to find you are none the worse, and we 
 may hope all the better, for your little out, Mr. Fearne 
 says he feels so well this morning that he thinks dis- 
 sipation must agree with him. The threatened storm 
 held off famously, but it hurried away the riders of the 
 party, and we wound up the evening by acting charades, 
 which caused peals of laughter. I have just seen the 
 Smiths and Mr. and Mrs. Pigg off per wagon, Mr. Pigg 
 walking with my brother, who has kindly invited them 
 to stay with him a day cr two to see the sugar-making, 
 which both have expressed a strong wish to see. 
 
 " Mr. Feilden took charge of Miriam ; soon after nine 
 this morning she went to spend the day with the Grice's, 
 and Mr. W. Whittaker is goodnaturedly .-.taying with me 
 to clean me up all the silver and put it in its chest 
 again/' 
 
 October 2W1. — There seems a mere nothing of work 
 in the house now all our visitors are gone. We are very 
 dull just now. The last mail has brought us the sad 
 news of the very sudden death of my husband's youngest 
 sister, a fine, handsome, young-looking woman of forty- 
 five, the mother of fourteen or fifteen living children, and 
 just delivered of a still-born daughter, the eighteenth 
 child. We hear there is a book on the way for each of 
 us, that she had sent by private hand shortly before. 
 Will it not be valued ? Leyland is very sad about this 
 loss. 
 
 The trials we each most require are those that are 
 sent to us, and if we are without trials, is it not a sign 
 that we may be "let alone " ? Let us all cling to the 
 arm thrown out to support us, and humbly and meekly 
 learn the lessons designed to be taught, nor wish to be 
 " let alone." 
 
 " November gth. — My dear Mrs. Bowen, — I can 
 scarcely keep awake. I nodded several times in reading 
 a most interesting account of the Waldenses. In the 
 garden I grew so dizzy that I must have fallen had not 
 my husband caught me. Poor Tom ran up the hill and 
 brought water in ' no time.' My mother would say, ' It
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 309 
 
 is the stomach. Eliza/ but I think the mind affects the 
 stomach, for Mr. Feilden has been far from well, and 
 our minds have been on the stretch lately." 
 
 Amongst the smaller very trying troubles has been 
 that of the Caffres' times being up, and though they are 
 as happy as the day is long, and are learning as well as 
 working, they want to go to craal. Even Tom rather 
 wished for a holiday. The boys had agreed to re- 
 main, but one came from Springfield on his way 
 home, and tried to. persuade our two to go with 
 him. One so far yielded as to gather up his sticks 
 and come to say good-bye ; but Mr. Feilden, with 
 Tom's aid, showed him that he must stay now. If all 
 were to go, what should we do ? Last night I listened 
 to Mr. Feilden giving Tom and Piccaninni fdieir English 
 lesson, and was amazed at the progress they have made 
 in so short a time. For a full hour their attention never 
 seemed to flag. I exclaimed, " Well, if I were you, I 
 would not go till I had learned to read at all events/' 
 Both laughed and looked pleased. Their minds grow ; 
 they perceive things that never struck them before. 
 Both are nice Caffres. The little one is full of fun. I 
 should like to have him bound for five years, in order that 
 he might be taught to read and learn the Word of God. 
 
 " November iSt/t. — MY DEAREST MOTHER,— Andrew 
 went off rather suddenly yesterday, so he left his let- 
 ter for me to finish and to read if I liked, and I am sure 
 it will comfort your heart to observe the pleasant, 
 cheerful, and hopeful spirit in which it is written. He 
 looks well and ivalks from his farm here, coming in 
 hungry. This and the manual labour he sets himself 
 to, are having the best possible effect upon his spirits. 
 At first I was sorry he should make a lonely home for 
 himself, ten miles distant, but now I see it is better. 
 He feels he is not wasting his days looking on, and he 
 comes and goes, which makes variety for him. and 
 gives him an object to look forward to. He has built 
 his second hut himself, with the aid of these boys and 
 an occasional Caffre, and he assures me it is stronger 
 and firmer by far than the one he got built for his horse.
 
 3io My African Home; or, 
 
 which at present he uses for himself. When he came over 
 on Thursday, he was full of two porches he has made, 
 since I was there, to protect the doors, and which are 
 large enough for four persons to sit in. These will 
 be a luxury in this sunny climate. By the way, he 
 talks of having seen neither sun nor moon this season 
 until his birthday (the 17th) which proves that at least 
 he has slept well, for though we have had an unusually 
 wet and cloudy commencement to our summer, there 
 certainly was one day that aired a quantity of clothes 
 and that dried things in no time, when I was thankful 
 to wear your charming blue glasses to dim the glare of 
 the linen in the sun, and as to the moon, I fancy I could 
 have read by its light when I have wakened occasionally 
 in the night. 
 
 " Mrs. Smith came kindly in the cart yesterday to 
 clean my house down, windows and floors from top 
 to bottom. We don't try to get a white servant now, 
 feeling so much more comfortable without, so long as 
 we have Caffre Tom, who has such pleasant manners 
 and understands English fairly. He is slow ; but when 
 he knows how, he does things well. I find I can put my 
 hand to a great many things I never thought of trying, 
 or of ever having to try, when in England. I cannot be 
 thankful enough for my good health and activity. An- 
 drew thinks I am stronger than I was in England, but 
 that is not the case by any means, only he sees me doing 
 a great deal more without being overdone. 
 
 " I sometimes wish, my dear mother, that you could 
 be transported in a balloon to visit us during our finest 
 season. You would enjoy our situation and garden, 
 and Andrew's fine atmosphere and beautiful scenery. 
 But if your balloon chanced to land you during a wet 
 season, all would be dismal, and no comfort at all, 
 except that which we could make for ourselves, for a 
 wet day in Natal is miserable. We have had many 
 rubs, hardships, and trials here, and shall hail a return 
 to old England with joy ; but we have been very happy 
 here, and are both daily learning the great lesson of life 
 — discipline, — with a practical knowledge and com-
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 311 
 
 passion for what hundreds of thousands go through in 
 struggling through life, which those of our station and 
 standing at home never come near except in a very- 
 small way. Those who visit the poor see, for a moment 
 at a time, scenes of misery, and that is again in a dif- 
 ferent line of life. I have been told there are no poor in 
 Durban, and yet, in proportion to its size, I believe 
 tliere is nowhere more of the struggles and troubles of 
 life to keep heads above water. Our colony is a poor 
 one, and many of the colonists are like old Mack here, 
 who came to take possession of a new, unploughed 
 country with half-a-crown in his pocket. The struggles 
 to be gone through on the road to success are what none 
 but a brave heart can endure and surmount. From our 
 windows I begin to see little patches of cleared ground 
 and bush-land, and I think of how they get along, and 
 what disappointments and piivations meet them; and 
 yet how hope prevails over all, and they go on." 
 
 Our new Governor has arrived, and every one is on 
 the qui-vive to know what he will turn out. We have 
 been, I may say, without a Government for eighteen 
 months, so little good have the acting officials done. 
 The Queen has granted Natal a separate constitution, 
 and now we are " the colony of Natal," independent 
 of Cape interference, from which place we are distant a 
 thousand miles. The Caffres are to be well off, and 
 will grow more saucy than ever ; but if they can be 
 Christianized it may be worth the sacrifice of the present 
 generation of white population. I think the interests of 
 both might be secured by good management. 
 
 November 24th. — The elegant conveyance which Col. 
 Cooper (our acting Lieut. -Governor) sent to convey our 
 new Governor, Scott, and his lady from the ship, was 
 a common ox-wagon, without carpet, and only a single 
 chair in it. The papers were very severe upon it, as 
 there are private light wagons for lady-travelling, the 
 owner of any of which would have willingly lent it. 
 Again, he took them to the camp, a horrid place, I am 
 told, smelling of everything nasty ; while one private 
 house was offered for their use, and the papers say
 
 312 My African Home; or, 
 
 others would readily have placed theirs at their service ! 
 Mrs. Scott is early being instilled into colonial dis- 
 agreeables. 
 
 December \Oth and 20th. — There are disturbances 
 among the Zulus, and the Durban Rangers have been 
 called out, mainly to prevent our Caffres from leaving their 
 service and going to join their friends across the Tugela, 
 to steal cattle from both friend and foe. We are under 
 no alarm here, and there is every hope that the war 
 will be confined to the territory to the north of the 
 Tugela. 
 
 One of our old Caffres, John, a mere garden worker, 
 came back to us yesterday ; but Tom has not yet turned 
 up. He promised he would return before the little boys 
 left for their home, so now we fear he may have gone to 
 the scene of the Caffre war, to take his opportunity of 
 stealing his neighbours' cattle — a lawful practice, I 
 conclude, in times of war. We hope he has not been 
 assegaied, both for his own sake and ours. He is a 
 Zulu, and there was some mystery in his father's sending 
 for him just before we heard of the late outburst and 
 massacre. Some skewers which were in his charge have 
 disappeared ; he may have taken the loan of them for 
 points, excusing the act to his conscience by the neces- 
 sity of the times. 
 
 We are told that the Governor is going about very 
 quietly to judge for himself of the state of things 
 among the Caffres. There have been fearful slaughters 
 among them. Troops have been sent for, which is only 
 a wise precaution, but we feel no alarm in Natal. We 
 are told that Panda and the beaten chief are both alive, 
 the latter in hiding. Numbers have come into Natal for 
 protection. Some could only clear the river and drop, 
 poor things ! I hope they will get buried quickly, or 
 the air will be poisoned and create other troubles. Poor 
 Tom ! I do not know how we arc to hear of him ; he 
 belongs to a craal different from all the rest. 
 
 Mr. Baldwin, one of the Zulu traders or huntsmen, a 
 great sportsman, is down just now. The Caffres allowed 
 him to pass unmolested, saying he had never hurt them.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 313 
 
 We have been looking for -him here ; should he come, 
 he may, perhaps, furnish us with some interesting par- 
 ticulars of the state of the country. He confirms the 
 account of bodies lying everywhere, and they were bury- 
 ing as fast as they could. The papers give a fearful 
 account of the treatment of Umbulasi. 
 
 November 29th to December tyh. — " My DEAR Sl.STER 
 MARGARET, — J am drawn in various directions at this 
 moment, but your name has prevailed over all other 
 claims, so I must indulge in writing you a few lines. 
 One of the cords that pulled me very hard was attached 
 to the sofa, with ' The Life of the Rev. Mr. Simeon ' to 
 luxuriate in ; another was, to sew a deep, white curtain 
 to my ship-board calico bonnet for the garden use ; 
 while a third was to turn a silk dress ; but this last was 
 least strong, for it will require consideration, and I am in 
 a humour only for idle work. Would you fancy it pos- 
 sible ? I feel myself caught, if found with a book or a 
 bit of my own work in hand, just as I should have felt 
 in England if I had been found reading a novel in the 
 forenoon. Does that give you an idea of idleness ? 
 Indeed I am not idle (I may say we are not), as you 
 shall judge, when I tell you that our good Caffre Tom, 
 whom I was boasting of to Mary only ten days ago, has 
 gone to his craal for a holiday. He came to me last 
 Tuesday to say, — 
 
 " ' Me brother come for me ; me sister very sick ; me 
 father say he come take me if I not go.' 
 
 " l Oh, Tom ! but what shall I do ? ' 
 
 " ' I tell me brother ' (with a shake of his head). 
 
 " ' What do they want you for, Tom ? ' 
 
 '"I not know, ma'am. I say I not go till Misser 
 Feilden come home ;' and really he did look more 
 conscientious than most of them do. 
 
 "When Leyland returned in the evening, however, 
 Tom talked to him, said he would soon return, and off 
 he set, carrying two doses of salts for the invalid, and a 
 couple of beautiful pine-apples to cheer her with ; and 
 thus was I left to manage my housekeeping as best 
 I could. Little ' Piccaninni,' as we call an intelligent
 
 314. My African Home; or, 
 
 little mahogany-coloured boy of about thirteen who 
 weeds in the garden, does a little towards taking Tom's 
 place, but only a very little ; and though a very nice 
 little boy, he is not a little difficult at times to manage, 
 taking fits of idleness or naughtiness, and singing away 
 when he is scolded in sheer impudence. I got very 
 angry with him yesterday, for instead of feeding the 
 pigs, as I told him, I found him sitting in the barrow, 
 chewing sugar-cane. I gave him a good lecture, and to 
 my surprise it has done him good ; he has been much 
 more diligent since. I wish you could see Leyland 
 giving them a reading-lesson in the evenings. It is 
 quite a picture. This little boy is remarkably quick ; he 
 has learned to read easy words in English before under- 
 standing them since September 1st, and anything in 
 the Caffre tongue he learns doubly quick. He is as full 
 of mischief as you can imagine, and has a fine, open, 
 merry expression, with a pair of brilliant black eyes. 
 His lessons call forth peals of laughter, when Leyland 
 infuses some new idea into his ignorant mind ; but he 
 thinks ' there is so much to learn, they shall never know 
 it all.' The little grain of mustard-seed grows into a 
 large tree ; let us hope and pray it may do so here. 
 Paul plants, Apollos waters, but God giveth the increase. 
 Tom is a very dull learner, but he is older ; the 
 third pupil I cannot yet understand. A phrenologist 
 would not give him credit for great powers of mind, 
 beyond cunning, but he rather improves in conduct. 
 However, both these boys' times will be up at the end of 
 this week, and I believe they mean to go to their craal and 
 indolence. If Tom should not return by then, I shall be 
 literally left to do that which in one of your letters you 
 said (after Leyland's and my engagement) you did not 
 think you could give your consent to, viz., that I should 
 have to keep my house clean with my own hands, as so 
 many ladies in America and Australia have found them- 
 selves reduced to. It is pretty nearly the case now, but 
 I am wonderfully supported under it all, and my spirits 
 rarely flag. 
 
 " I am much more concerned about Springfield than
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 315 
 
 about myself. It is found that the Springfield sugar 
 estate is too large for its means to carry on. A company 
 was formed to work the mill department ; Leyland was 
 induced to give his consent to the appointment of a 
 manager, who has so mystified and mism naged things 
 that it is touch-and-go whether we shall pull through or 
 be ruined. The flood, however, was the prime cause of 
 the difficulty, because it destroyed the crops that were 
 counted upon to pay the working, &c. Perhaps we 
 counted too surely upon this, and God has seen fit to 
 check our ardour, and to show that He holds all things 
 in His hands, to prosper or withhold. Of this I feel so 
 certain that I take everything as it comes very quietly, 
 and I think I am content that all shall be just as He sees 
 best, for I know that all things, the veriest trifles, are 
 under His control, and are permitted for the furtherance 
 of our heavenward growth. After all, what is this life, 
 and all it can yield, at its best? Only a few days are 
 we permitted to enjoy, and then we are taken away, not — 
 as the Caffre thinks — to perish in the earth like the beasts, 
 but to judgment for ouf use or abuse of the means placed 
 in our power. More and more do I feel that God 
 searcheth the heart, rather than the outward action. 
 The veil was certainly removed in Christ. ' Bring no 
 more vain oblations.' 
 
 " My brother wants me to spend a week with him at 
 his farm and hut, and the Whittakers have invited me 
 to go to them for a week when they shall have built 
 their hut, but I say I cannot leave Leyland, for I don't 
 know what he would do without his shadow. He says 
 I should find the house empty on my return. 
 
 " I wish we could send you a dessert from our garden 
 occasionally. Two days ago, when Andrew was here, 
 we had on the table, at luncheon, a pine-apple, a large 
 papaw, some bananas, and granadillas. VVe have had 
 1500 pine-apples and upwards this last year, and no 
 market for them since the steamers were taken off the 
 coast. They have been given away in dozens. 
 
 " Mrs. Bowen's seventy-ninth birthday occurred last 
 month, November 27th. She is toiling along the last
 
 3 16 My African Home; or, 
 
 stages of life all alone, yet I believe she enjoys much 
 happiness in the midst of much fretting vexation about 
 trifling and annoying evils — trifles are, after all, the most 
 difficult to bear equably. I believe no one experiences 
 this more than poor old Mrs. Bowen. On her birthday 
 (the weather being quite too hot for me to walk over to 
 see her) we made up a beautiful basket full of various 
 things we thought she would enjoy. Her pine-apples 
 have failed, so a fine one was put in, and a lovely 
 bouquet of flowers crowning the basket from the midst 
 of the large picturesque papaw leaf. 
 
 "The thermometer is now at j6° in the room where I 
 write, with d<ors and windows open, and no sun as yet 
 in it, on this 5th day of December, 1856. Out of doors 
 it is much hotter. Leyland has just come in ; he says 
 I am to tell you to send us word when you are going to 
 give a party, and if there is time he will sell you 
 fourteen pine-apples for one shilling, and give you credit 
 for the money. He and Andrew and I ate one the other 
 day that you would have given thirty shillings for. I do 
 not think I shall be able to eat or buy pine-apples in 
 England after finding them so cheap here. Leyland 
 says also I may tell you that we have cut our first 
 cucumber to-day. Hitherto the seed has failed, and he 
 threw some into a place, not expecting it to grow, and 
 one plant has appeared, and others may follow. We 
 did the same by the Aberuchil melon seeds, never 
 expecting to see them up, but lo ! there they are, fine, 
 healthy young plants, growing on a manured bed near 
 the stable, among some magnificent young pumpkins, 
 some of which may have to be rooted out to make room 
 for their more esteemed neighbours. 
 
 " I have had many interruptions while writing this 
 letter. It has been a week on the stocks. Once, in the 
 middle of a sentence, Leyland came and persuaded me 
 to don my hat and go with him to the bush, to watch 
 them cutting stakes for a fence. A wilder scene you 
 could hardly picture, the strokes of the axe, the rustling 
 of the leaves, or the falling of the branches, being the 
 only sounds besides our own voices in the midst of
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 317 
 
 tangled weeds and trees and bushes of all sizes and 
 descriptions. There is much that is exciting and 
 attractive in a wild bush life. ' Queechy ' draws scenes 
 from the life. This moment I have been to the kitchen 
 to see how dinner is getting on ; I skimmed the beef in 
 the pan, put a few logs of wood on the fire, and put the 
 bread in the oven to bake. We possess a most charming 
 kitchen now ; the comfort of it I cannot overrate. 
 Mr. Kock said it would be fitter for the North Pole than 
 for these sunny regions, and that for many months in 
 the year we should not be able to use it ; but we find it 
 the greatest comfort. Here is the hot weather, yet we 
 cook and eat in our kitchen. The stove keeps in a 
 good deal of heat, and wood fires are not like coal fires, 
 they soon lose heat." 
 
 One other letter to my neighbour, Mrs. Bowen, will, I 
 think, close my reminiscences this year. It is dated 
 December 26th. 1856 : — 
 
 "My DEAR Mrs. Bowen, — Hoping for some chance 
 mode of communication between Feniscowles and 
 Keventrenfa to-day, I sit down while I have a little 
 leisure to have a chat with you, thinking that I have 
 earned the leisure by being up at four o'clock this 
 morning, and having made a comfortable, hot breakfast, 
 and seen Mr. Feilden off for Maritzberg by five. I must 
 go back to yesterday, when I had hoped to have paid 
 you a visit of Christmas greeting with my husband, and 
 to have carried my tart myself, and apologized in person 
 for the somewhat ragged look it received in baking, and 
 to have expressed a hope that, if the crust did not meet 
 your approval, the interior might. I have not eaten its 
 fellow tart yet, for a tapioca pudding I tried my hand in 
 proved so good that none of us did more than look at 
 the tart. I\lr. Feilden had invited Mr. Cope to dine with 
 us en famille yesterday at from two to three o'clock, and 
 learning, after the invite was given, that the Smiths were 
 having some sort of Christmas gathering, we did not like 
 to deprive Alec Smith of the unusual pleasure and gaiety, 
 so I at once said I could manage everything at home, 
 and Alec might have a whole day of it. Do not you
 
 3 iS My African Home; or, 
 
 think I was very bold to undertake the whole work of 
 the house, with a not very intimate friend coming to 
 dinner, and with only a Caffre to light and keep up the 
 fire, and wash out the pans ? I must tell you what I 
 gave them for dinner. I stewed a piece of beef and 
 made soup of the liquor with maccaroni, which was 
 pronounced capital ; I baked a small shoulder of .mutton 
 so well that I was amazed at myself. There was no 
 doubt of its being mutton, which in this quick country 
 cannot always be recognized by the flavour ; but, having 
 to dish up the dinner and to slip on my silk dress after- 
 wards, there was no time to make proper gravy (as Mrs. 
 Smith has taught me), lest dinner should grow cold. 
 However, the mutton was so juicy that the gravy was 
 not missed. We had calabash and rice for vegetables, 
 pudding and tart, and a beautiful dessert, with a good 
 cup of coffee afterwards. I was never required to rise 
 from table to replace things, Mr. Feilden getting up 
 twice for what was not within arm's reach on the side 
 table. Do not you think I may apply for a cook's place 
 soon ? I tell my husband I am fitting myself for house- 
 keeper in some old bachelor's small establishment some 
 day, but he says it would not long remain a bachelor's 
 house. Caffre John was very attentive and very willing 
 as far as he comprehended, taking away plates and 
 dishes, and washing all up. Alec was to have returned 
 last night, but the pleasure of the day lasted so long that 
 he found it too dark. He has brought me a piece of his 
 mother's plum pudding, which is very good ; but these 
 things are all rather rich, so after a taste I mean Mrs. 
 Galliers and Billy to come down the hill and each have 
 a slice, and Alec can finish what is left. 
 
 " This brings me to another subject. Mrs. Galliers 
 wishes me to tell you that she was quite shocked with 
 the behaviour of that rude, forward girl who accom- 
 panied her to Keventrenfa, uninvited, and spoiled her 
 own pleasure in the visit and walk, and she wondered 
 that you took it so quietly. Mrs. Galliers does not 
 know her name. Her mother washes for some of the 
 men where Galliers works, and this girl carries clothes.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 319 
 
 She has often asked "him to 'bring her up here, and he 
 told her that she might come if she liked, so yesterday 
 she made her appearance, pried into everything at Mrs. 
 Galliers' house, and would not help her in any way, nor 
 did she carry the baby coming from Keventrenfa. 
 Moreover, she put the bundle down after carrying it a 
 few yards, declaring herself tired, so Billy had that to 
 carry. I was sorry the poor woman's pleasure was so 
 spoiled after your kind invitation for her Christmas 
 enjoyment. The girl accompanied her to our house, 
 and wanted to come again ; but Mrs. Galliers slipped 
 off when she was not at hand, grumbling to herself at 
 the forward rudeness of the girl. Galliers offered to 
 take her through the bush on her way home, but she 
 said ' it did not matter, she would stay all night,' so 
 they made her a shakedown on the floor beside them- 
 selves. He has taken her home this morning, and poor 
 Mrs. Galliers says that she watched them pass our 
 house, thinking it not impossible that the girl might 
 call again. Mrs. Galliers adds, ' I've seen a many, but 
 I never saw one like her.' Her husband had spoken 
 well of the girl, but she thinks ' he'll change his mind 
 now.' " 
 
 Poor Mrs. Bowen has a hard time of it just now. 
 She can get no servants, and has been literally at the 
 mercy of an unprincipled, malicious boy of fourteen, for 
 three months or more. He has left her now, and she 
 is thankful to be without him, though she is dependent 
 upon a neighbour for everything, till she hears of some 
 one else willing to take service. She is almost worn 
 out, and writes me word that she is " wearying to be 
 away." All these particular troubles of hers seem to 
 me to be intended to bring down her spirit, and they 
 are doing it ; but there is a restlessness about her that 
 cannot submit quietly to impositions. She tries to 
 make her servants work her way, instead of letting 
 them manage their own way ; this puts them into 
 opposition, and she gets no peace. However, she has a 
 fine imagination, and a well-stored mind, and she always 
 speaks and writes with the firmest faith in her Saviour,
 
 320 My African HAme ; or, 
 
 so she has many happy hours and sunny feelings cf 
 thankfulness for " undeserved mercies." But hers does 
 seem a solitary, forsaken lot. She has outlived most 
 of her own family and friends, and the younger race 
 do not seem to trouble themselves with the burden of 
 her, yet she never mentions any of them without 
 affection.
 
 UMLIMBA, WIFE OF MAZABANI. 
 
 Page 32
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 321 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 January yth, 1857. — I find I wronged our honest 
 Caffre Tom in thinking that he might have taken our 
 skewers for points. They are most carefully tied to- 
 gether, and placed at the very back of a long drawer. 
 Poor fellow ! I hope he is not killed ; but we hear 
 nothing of him, and it seems only too likely. Strange 
 rumours of this war reach us. One says that Panda is 
 being fattened for the first fruits of the victorious feast, 
 and since then we hear that Panda has been the victor. 
 
 I had a present of a bottle of milk yesterday, an 
 article not often to be had, and it afforded us a cup of 
 good coffee. A Caffre brought a young buck, which I 
 was tempted to buy to give to my brother for a pet, to 
 expend his love upon while living all alone across the 
 water, working and living hard. I found my young 
 buck did not know how to eat, so I dipped my finger 
 in gruel and let him suck it ; but the creature showed a 
 decided preference for the black kitten's ears, and as 
 the kitten and he fraternized at once, in spite of sundry 
 snaps of buck's little teeth, and consequent yells of 
 pussy, I smeared pussy's head and ears with porridge 
 and milk, and young buck licked them clean. The 
 Caffre has brought in a prickly branch from which it 
 nibbles the leaves. I shall keep it for a week to teach 
 it to feed itself. It is a pretty grey buck, about a 
 month old. 
 
 Our young monkey thrives, is very gentle, and not 
 yet tricky, poor little thing. It could not have been 
 more than a few days old when we got it, for the hair 
 was not yet covering its body. Little Billy Galliers' 
 
 Y
 
 322 My African Home ; or, 
 
 kitten has killed two of our pigeons. One was the 
 mother of two newly hatched ones, which have been 
 adopted by another and the old widower as we call the 
 cock. So our pets are various. 
 
 January l$tk. — To MRS. BOWEN, — "You have sent 
 us a beautiful fish, and we both beg to thank you for it. 
 Mr. Feilden says when your Caffre stops so long away 
 and neglects your business, you should take it off his 
 wages as the only way to cure him. We are sending 
 you some bottles full of water, for you may get none 
 by-and-by, and ours is all running away. We neither 
 of us feel very brilliant to-day, owing to the extreme 
 heat. I got home yesterday in good daylight ; Caffre 
 John is a steady married man, and walked behind me 
 quietly, with his assegai ready to do execution on any 
 intruder. He fully appreciated my polite "Thank you," 
 when I took the basket and bottle from him, for while 
 I was standing in the garden with Mr. Feilden, he came 
 up and presented me with a handful of gooseberries. 
 So much for a smile. He is generally a gruff, dogged 
 fellow, who will not bear a reproof. Mr. Feilden sends 
 you a fine calabash, with his love. He says I shall not 
 be jealous ; I tell him not to be too sure, for I am 
 jealous of his book sometimes." 
 
 January i $th. — Yesterday two of our neighbours rode 
 up to spend the day, and while we were at dinner the 
 colonial chaplain rode up and joined our impromptu 
 party, greatly adding to the cheerfulness of the conver- 
 sation. The heat is very oppressive ; Leyland is quite 
 weak and ill, and I am not good for much. One of our 
 horses is disabled, so that I have scarcely been beyond 
 our garden for some months. We talk of taking the 
 wagon and going up to Richmond (where we spent a 
 a pleasant time two years ago). We are both greatly 
 in want of change of air and scene, though we never 
 tire of our own lovely spot and fine garden. We had 
 2000 pine-apples during the last twelve months. We 
 had a splendid crop of papaws, of bananas a good 
 number, and mulberries, with a quantity of young 
 trees coming on for next season. Our guava-trees are
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 323 
 
 laden with fruit. We have one peach-tree, and a vine 
 or two beginning to fruit, with more coming forward ; 
 but I fear the peaches are not a fine kind. The passion 
 fruit we have had this year in great abundance, and 
 various other fruits are growing. Orange-trees require 
 a long time to mature, and some dishonest man has stolen 
 a number of our young ones, picking them out from 
 amongst the lemon-trees, which he left undisturbed. 
 There are two loquat-trees that may fruit in a year ; a 
 few young apple grafts ; and a nut-tree bearing a good 
 nut, with some other fruits the names of which I do 
 not know. One plant called corinda or Indian sorrel 
 (hybiscus) bears a red fruit, full of thick gummy juice, 
 which makes a very fine jelly ; we put the seed of this 
 in the ground only last year, and we hope it will fruit 
 this year. Our fig-trees have not done well, but we 
 have one superior fig-tree that looks very healthy. I 
 do not think our pomegranates are of the right kind for 
 eating ; we have a hedge of them, — the fruit is very acid, 
 full of seeds, the flower or blossom is lovely. The little 
 crimson monthly rose — the only one that lived of those 
 we brought out with us — borders each side of a walk, 
 besides providing sundry bushes elsewhere, and flowers 
 luxuriantly all the year round, with very little inter- 
 mission. The brognantia, with its large, handsome, 
 powerfully scented white bell flower, blooms four or 
 more times a year, and is really magnificent, and so is 
 the cardamum. W. Whittaker has given us a cutting 
 from his fuchsia, which is shooting nicely. Our petunias 
 are all puce and white, and they grow so well that I 
 wish we had more varieties ; we have to thin them now 
 and then. The geraniums grow easily, and of these I 
 often wish we had more varieties, ours being confined to 
 rose colour, rose pink, and scarlet. The blue salvia 
 seed has never come up, while the scarlet is almost like 
 a weed. I think this climate has a preference for 
 scarlet and yellow — many of the native flowers blend- 
 ing these in their strongest tints. The white chrys- 
 anthemums were very fine last year, but are less so 
 this. From this enumeration may be pictured a very 
 
 Y 2
 
 324 My African Home ; or, 
 
 good garden ; if we could only keep it in proper style it 
 would be a splendid garden ; but one or two Caffres to 
 weed, and a white boy, are all we have had for a long 
 time, and they must do all the other work required. 
 
 We send three and a half miles for butcher's meat 
 and groceries, and the only way we can insure speedy 
 messengers is to give them no more than time to 
 execute their errand and be back before dark. They 
 do not like the bush in the dark. 
 
 January \6th. — My young buck continues to thrive, 
 and his friendship with the kitten is as great as ever. 
 It came close to me one evening as we sat at table, 
 and I thought was rubbing its head for notice, when, 
 putting my hand down, it caught my little finger, and 
 set its teeth so firmly that I cried out, and had some 
 difficulty to open its jaws to let me go after a good 
 scratch that brought the blood. Then I found it had 
 been amusing itself with sucking my dress, and in a 
 marvellously short time had bitten a great hoie in it. 
 So my brother can have him when he likes ! 
 
 January 2yd. — Neither of us are well, and we must get 
 up into the cooler country as soon as my husband can 
 get all his troublesome business arranged. He came 
 home last night in the dark, having been detained. He 
 had my mare, which has been so long ill that her foot- 
 ing was unsteady in the dark (as whose would not be 
 in that bush-path ?), and she rolled over with him, he 
 alighting on his head, and getting a bad scratch on his 
 nose. One of his spurs struck against something, and 
 was knocked completely out of his boot. It was a very 
 dark night. He is to be at the dinner to-night (Mr. 
 Mellor being a personal friend), and talks of coming 
 home after it, but I have begged him to accept the 
 offered bed at the magistrate's house. There is no 
 moon just now. I am quite alone to-day, Alec and 
 Caffre John having taking some things that want repair, 
 and the other Caffre has been sent up the country with 
 a message. I could find plenty to do, but can only 
 waste my time. I have just eaten luncheon, brown 
 bread and butter, with passion-fruit jam, and a slice of
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 325 
 
 pine-apple after. I tried to draw the cork of a small 
 bottle of porter, thinking I should be the better for 
 half a glass, but in vain ; I had to give it up. 
 
 January 2jtk. — The flood of last year proved, sadly, 
 more disastrous to us than we at first counted upon. 
 It has completely upset us, and will bring us near 
 to beggary. I will not enter into details, for not alone 
 the hand of God -has been laid heavily upon us, but 
 also the hands of unprincipled worldly men. 
 
 We have decided on going to Richmond to our friends 
 the Fearnes, and after staying a few days with them we 
 may find some kind of hole or cobbler's hut again to 
 receive us. My husband talks very decidedly of visiting 
 England afterwards. The Smiths are to come back to 
 Feniscowles, and live in our house, and Smith will farm 
 the estate on his own account. This is the proposed 
 programme ; we will see how it can be carried out. 
 The Smiths are already installed in our kitchen. We 
 have a gentleman, a Mr. Moodie, staying with us, and 
 Mrs. Mellor talks of spending to-morrow with me if fine, 
 so with all these various arrangements for house and 
 journey there is plenty to do. The Smiths have brought 
 their furniture, and ours must be moved to make room ; 
 but Mrs. Smith and I can work hand in hand. She is 
 first-rate. 
 
 We took our horses, and W. Whittaker drove our 
 wagon, and we were soon most comfortably located 
 with our friends, the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Fearne in their 
 nice little cottage at Richmond. Our health began to 
 recruit with the change and relaxation, and our hosts 
 would not hear of our seeking shelter elsewhere. Mrs. 
 Fearne is an excellent woman. She looks so gentle 
 and delicate, you would think that she could rough 
 nothing, but she is busy from morning to night, and is 
 the main-spring of the house. She superintends the 
 school, as well as her domestic affairs. We mean to 
 take her back with us for a change. Vale Cottage is 
 more than a mile out of Richmond, which is a mere 
 apology -for a village as yet, so we live very quietly, 
 except that gentlemen drop in occasionally at meal-
 
 326 My African Home ; or, 
 
 times ; one of whom, a Mr. McKenzie, invited us to ride 
 to his farm, ten miles distant, and pass the day fishing 
 and idling. The morning proved lovely, and the 
 gentlemen assuring me I should not keep them back, 
 I donned my habit, and we started before seven o'clock 
 to ride ten miles for an appetite for breakfast. I found 
 Mrs. McKenzie a very sweet young woman, with a 
 house beautifully ordered and clean, and a fine fat little 
 boy, who had been shown to us, on our former visit to 
 Richmond, in long clothes. We enjoyed our day very 
 much, but I was glad to get off an uncomfortable horse 
 and saddle at night, when we reached home about 
 dark. 
 
 "March 2nd. — Vale Cottage, Richmond. My DEAREST 
 MOTHER, — My heart is so full I do not know where to 
 begin. The mail came in on Saturday evening, and 
 brought us all your kind, affectionate, and interesting 
 letters. But you must not draw such dreadful pictures 
 of us — ' toiling all the day long.' I assure you, Andrew 
 has looked quite a different man, hearty and cheerful. 
 He can eat anything now since he has been working so 
 hard with his hands, and with hope before him. He 
 can scarcely spare time to come and see us, he is so 
 much interested in preparing his land for planting. 
 When he made his appearance the day before his birth- 
 day, and I said, ' Ah, you are come that we may drink 
 your health to-morrow,' he replied, ' I am not sure that 
 I can stay, I want to get back, and only came for some- 
 thing I required.' It was the same answer the day 
 before we came up into the country. I said, 'You have 
 come to wish us good-bye.' ' No,' he replied, ' I thought 
 you were gone, I wanted to see Smith.' I have just 
 sent off a long note to tell him of our letters, and to 
 promise him a reading of them when we return in a 
 week or so. He must also attend to the boxes of good 
 things we hear have arrived, which you have all been so 
 happy in packing and sending oft, and which we all 
 shall enjoy together with real gusto. You must not 
 fancy I ' try ' to write cheerfully ; I am really cheerful. 
 We have many heavy cares and vexations constantly
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 327 
 
 arising, and they weigh upon us for a time, and have 
 doubtless made furrows and lines that should not other- 
 wise have been, and I fear you will find me (should I 
 return) aged and ugly, and Leyland haggard and care- 
 worn, owing perhaps to his having had too many irons 
 to attend to at once. We both feel older ; I feel twenty 
 years older than when I left England five years ago ; 
 but in the midst of it all, we really are cheerful and 
 happy, and can make jokes and fun yet, though, like the 
 good Vicar of Wakefield's family, if they have not much 
 wit, they produce a good share of laughter. Perhaps 
 the purity of the climate prevents my feeling dull or 
 sad, or brooding long over troubles, for a small thing 
 makes us all merry. But my greatly increased deaf- 
 ness of late causes me to be quieter. One ear, which 
 was my best, seems quite shut up, and naturally it 
 makes me appear stupid at times. God's ways are not 
 as man's ways, and there is many a blessing sent in 
 disguise. We experience that here very closely at 
 times, and I am trying more and more to feel com- 
 munion with Christ in all my daily and hourly employ- 
 ments, wants, or occurrences. I try to realize this 
 constant presence, but ' Little Faith ' is a hindrance. 
 
 " I have just written the thoughts of my heart as 
 they have come uppermost, and you must excuse the 
 manner. 
 
 " E. and M*. T. seem to be a composition of all 
 manner of kindnesses and gifts, a real storehouse kept 
 for the use of all around. It is a blessed way of enjoy- 
 ing the wealth God has given them, and it will be 
 blessed in and to themselves. I have no ambition to 
 possess great wealth ; but to be able to dispense largely, 
 if we can do it with humility and simplicity, is a great 
 and enviable privilege. 
 
 " The weather in this climate (except on its few rainy 
 days) is so clear and sunny, that I almost forget how 
 cold I used to feel in England at this season, and how 
 I used to wrap myself up for a double-quick walk to 
 make the lazy blood circulate. I don't know how I 
 should stand the English winters now, though it is true
 
 328 My African Home; or, 
 
 that the summers here are too relaxing for my tender 
 nerves. A shower-bath daily would do me good, but it 
 cannot be had. Water is too scarce, having all to be 
 carried uphill, except the rain-water we catch in the 
 water-vats ; and the fear of not having ' a good rainy 
 day soon ' makes that precious. 
 
 " I have said that I feel twenty years older since I 
 came to this colony, through contact with human nature 
 and its many trials. One sees so much of it here 
 wherever we turn. People with small means struggling 
 to make them do, and feeling themselves ' as good 
 as you,' like the Americans — a spirit only to be overcome 
 by frankness and genuine feeling, regardless of position. 
 There are numbers of respectable people who were 
 ' better off once,' and a good many who are better off 
 now, especially in position, than ever they were in Eng- 
 land. There are some, really ladies and gentlemen, who 
 with the greatest difficulty and roughing can barely feed 
 their families ; and a sprinkling of poor clergymen's 
 sons come out to push their way, working at carting, 
 ploughing, building, or any other way to earn their 
 daily bread. The man my brother has engaged to 
 plough and work for him is a clergyman's son. W. W. 
 has commenced as wagoner, to ' make a little ready 
 money to pay Caffre wages,' while his brother is building 
 up their house on the farm. Such a ' mixy-maxy ' of 
 society as you never came in contact with. In the midst 
 of it all, a reflecting person cannot help learning some 
 good lessons, and I cannot regret my five years' residence 
 in Natal. It has opened my heart to classes that I 
 could never have been thrown amongst in my position in 
 England." 
 
 Lung sickness has been busy amongst the cattle. 
 Out of forty cows that my husband had on Mr. East- 
 wood's farm only twenty are left, and others will die, I 
 fear. The sheep farms seem likely to succeed. 
 
 We have been at Vale Cottage three weeks, and feel 
 much better and stronger ; that is, I do, for Leyland has 
 been on horseback almost incessantly during ten days. 
 There is a rumour that the bishop may preach at Rich-
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 329 
 
 mond next Sunday, and the schoolmaster is inspiriting 
 his pupils to do their exercises well, under the expecta- 
 tion of their being submitted to his inspection. The 
 village school was undertaken as a Government work by 
 a Scotchman, who so entirely neglected his task, that 
 the children were growing up in utter ignorance — very 
 few even pretending to attend school. Good Mrs. Fearne 
 look pity on them, and opened a school in her own house 
 for such as chose to come. This increased so rapidly, 
 from the good that accrued, that Mr. Fearne had a large 
 hut raised and furnished with desks and forms just in- 
 side his garden for a schoolroom, and the bishop, seeing 
 it was too much for Mrs. Fearne and Miriam to carry it 
 on alone with all their other duties, has lately sent a 
 trained teacher who takes a real interest in his task, and 
 relieves the ladies greatly. Children of all ages up to 
 seventeen are thankful to be taught, and they look as 
 if the school was the pleasantest place they had to 
 go to. Mrs. Fearne still goes daily and gives a lesson 
 on different subjects, of which the pupils write an account 
 from memory, some of them remarkably well. 
 
 My husband has set his heart on visiting England. 
 He wants to see his mother again. She is near eighty 
 years old, and he thinks a " wee cot " in the Highlands 
 for a year would be a paradise, with a strong young 
 woman to help me in the domestic department, and to 
 milk the cow, &c. It is a vision ! Amidst sylvan scenery, 
 cool air, and gurgling brooks, with a fishing-rod and wal- 
 let, or a gun and game-bag, thick shoes and coarse 
 clothes, and foregoing the refinements of cultivated 
 society. Here, except in work, all is abandon ; no style 
 of fashion or dress to be studied, no state or ceremony 
 at table or in the drawing-room. The master or mis- 
 tress rises to supply the wants of the guests, and lays the 
 cloth for dinner composedly — chatting the while — as 
 neatly as your servant, and with less bustle sometimes. 
 " Shall you mind having pudding first to-day ? " asked 
 my kind hostess, "because when we have pancakes, we 
 generally have them first, so as to eat them while they 
 are hot.'''
 
 330 My African Home ; or, 
 
 March 6th. — Craigie Burn. My husband and Mr. 
 Fearne made an expedition further into the country 
 towards Ladysmith. He says, in writing to me : " We 
 had a lovely ride yesterday, I know nothing in Eng- 
 land to compare it to except the wildest parts of Derby- 
 shire. Where we now are is the very picture of some 
 parts of Forfarshire and Aberdeenshire. This morning 
 Mr. Fearne and Mr. Proudfoot, at whose house we are, 
 rode to a farm about a horse, leaving me to cook the 
 dinner, which I was to have ready by one o'clock. I 
 cooked a beautiful dinner, but no one appeared till four 
 o'clock, when three horsemen came in sight leading a 
 horse. Mr. Fearne had completed his purchase, and he 
 leaves ' Chaka ' here. Being so late, we decided to re- 
 main another night at Craigie Burn. I gave them hodge- 
 podge, a leg of a goat, potatoes and greens, all cooked in 
 the only two iron pots in the establishment, besides six 
 boiled mealie cobs, and had great praise awarded me. 
 To-morrow we are to ride to John BoshofT's farm, then 
 I go to Weenen, thence to Jacobus Potgieter's, and re- 
 turn, if possible, to Craigie Burn on Wednesday night to 
 join Mr. Fearne again, on our return to Richmond and 
 Vale Cottage." 
 
 There are no poor people, so called, about Richmond, 
 yet many are very poor. I went into one cottage with 
 Mrs. Fearne, a mere cabin, but strictly clean, where the 
 woman, in writing to her friends in England, told them 
 how well off she is here, that she never bought less than 
 quarters of a pound of tea at a time. A goodly piece of 
 raw beef hung over the door. Another woman told us 
 how her husband had paid ill. for some oxen ten days 
 before, and that three of them had died since of lung 
 sickness. We met the cobbler whose hut we occupied 
 two years ago ; he said he was going home to his " palace." 
 We called it the " Black Dwarfs " house.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 331 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 We returned home in the beginning of April, taking 
 Mrs. Fearne with us. Our journey of seventy miles 
 occupied fully three days. We slept two nights in the 
 wagon. It was sent off with our luggage and bed on 
 Wednesday afternoon, and we overtook it next morning 
 on horseback. Then our horses were led by a Caffre, 
 and we entered the wagon, first sitting around it to eat 
 our cold luncheon of bread and beef. Mr. Fearne con- 
 voyed us so far, and led back his wife's horse, the others 
 had to go on. We ladies had a comfortable cartel and 
 mattress inside, but the two gentlemen slept as they 
 could, wrapped in furs and blankets outside the curtain, 
 the ground not being safe that night. Next afternoon, 
 my husband rode on home to make all ready for our 
 reception, and we passed another night in the wagon, 
 Wm. Whittaker, our driver, managing as he could again, 
 outside. Unfortunately the wind rose, and one bit of 
 our curtain could not be closed, so that my already 
 influenza cold returned on my voice and carried it away. 
 We reached home on Saturday at three p.m., and found 
 my brother waiting to welcome us back. He was 
 knocking off the tops of two boxes just arrived from 
 friends in England, filled with good things for all of us. 
 Lucky it was he did not delay longer, for a jar of 
 preserves had got broken and was beginning to find its 
 way to the spoiling of a pasteboard box containing 
 sundry pretty articles of silk and other wearing gear. 
 As it was, we saved the preserves and the dresses intact 
 We had a busy week to begin with after our two 
 months' absence. My brother had seen and fallen 
 desperately in love with a pretty girl, the belle of the
 
 332 My African Home ; or, 
 
 colony, and he wanted our aid to forward his suit by- 
 calling upon and showing attention to the family of the 
 young lady. There was no resisting him, so we ordered 
 our horses and made the call. We were quite won 
 over by the gentle, modest manners of the sweet young 
 girl, so thoughtful and sensible looking, and as there 
 could be no objection to the connection, if the parties 
 were willing (she was a lady born and bred), it ended 
 in our inviting a party to spend the day, and asking the 
 young lady to come and stay with me, that she might 
 see more of my brother before making up her mind, as 
 the plea of short acquaintance was all that could be 
 urged against the match. It all ended happily, as I 
 shall show hereafter ; but I must return from this digres- 
 sion. 
 
 I cannot pretend to enumerate all the good things, as 
 well as beautiful and useful, that filled our boxes, sent 
 and packed by loving friends at home. A stereoscope 
 likeness of dear Lady Feilden took us quite by surprise. 
 It is a beautiful likeness, and this wonderful instrument 
 brings her before us in calm and peaceful thought, with 
 an open letter (possibly her son's) in her hand. How I 
 should like to possess such an one of my own mother. 
 There were presents also for dear Mrs. Bowen, among 
 them an Etna lamp from Lady Feilden (who has become 
 interested in her through my descriptions, and who is 
 very nearly the same age, seventy-nine or eighty), to 
 enable the old lady to have a cup of warm coffee at any 
 hour in the night or morning, when her lazy, selfish 
 servant declines getting up in time. She is greatly 
 delighted, and has written a letter of thanks and a few 
 pretty verses on the subject, which she sent to my 
 husband to approve or correct. 
 
 We made a nice little gathering at her cottage one 
 day, to partake of the communion, in Easter week. 
 There were six of us, and Archdeacon Mackenzie rode 
 over from Isipingo on purpose to administer the sacra- 
 ment. 
 
 A second sister of the archdeacon's has come out 
 from England, full of enthusiasm and ardour, to learn
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 333 
 
 the Cafifre language and become a missionary. Her 
 brother says she goes about with pencil and paper to 
 pick up as she goes along and learn. 
 
 All the " grey sisters " the bishop brought cut are 
 dispersed. We do not know all the reasons, but we fancy 
 the bishop is not a good financier, and that he finds 
 money will not go quite so far as he expected. Two 
 of the " sisters " are married. One is just now embark- 
 ing for England, and another, an elderly lady, is seeing 
 her off, paying her passage, and supplying any deficiency 
 in her wardrobe from her own purse. This lady, Miss 
 Townsend, wearies people with doing good. Her time, 
 thoughts, and money are all devoted to assisting others. 
 My husband called on her with Mrs. Fearne (our guest), 
 and both were delighted with her, and she is going to 
 call on us at Feniscowles on her way to Isipingo to stay 
 with the Mackenzies. I am told that her berth on 
 board ship seemed never slept on ; it was filled with 
 books and other people's things. The sailors dreaded 
 her, for she was on deck all night. 
 
 I was told that Mr. Ashe Windham made a very 
 clever caricature on board of one of the bishop's young 
 ladies, who, smelling fire one night, and having impru- 
 dently left a lighted candle near some papers, found 
 them on fire. She rushed out of her cabin in her night- 
 dress, calling" Mr. Archdeacon ! Mr. Archdeacon ! " (it 
 seems that in all emergencies they called for him.) Mr. 
 Archdeacon did not come quickly enough, but Mr. 
 Windham appeared in night attire and allayed the alarm, 
 so the caricature represents himself peeping out of his 
 berth in his nightcap, pointing his finger very reprovingly 
 at the young lady, and saying, " Now remember, if you 
 ever do so again, you're to be put overboard." 
 
 April 2\st. — I have been busy this morning, with 
 Mrs, Smith and Friday's help, bottling some light beer 
 we made yesterday. It is my first trial, and if it succeed 
 will be a very palatable, refreshing drink, and easily 
 made, so long as I use Boer's meal for my brown bread. 
 The bran, sifted with a handful of hops, a little brown 
 sugar, and a good deal of water, boiled well together,
 
 334 Mv African Home; or, 
 
 and afterwards fermented with yeast, makes the beer, 
 which will be ready for use in two days. I have been 
 very successful making vinegar from the washings of 
 sugar-bags, and also from over-ripe pine-apples, but for 
 an English housekeeper I shall be quite at a loss, and 
 shall have everything to learn over again. 
 
 April 2jtk. — On Saturday, our pleasant visitor, Mrs. 
 Fearne, v/ent into Durban to spend the day with a friend, 
 and my husband and I were left alone. We made a 
 good luncheon, and agreed it should be our dinner and 
 thus save more cooking. We were prepared for a quiet 
 afternoon, which we were in the midst of enjoying, 
 strolling about leisurely in the garden, when up came 
 my brother with a " What time are you going to dine ? " 
 I explained the case, and said he should have a hungry 
 tea very soon. In five minutes, up rode another gentle- 
 man to dine and stay all night ; he also had to be put 
 off with a hungry tea, beef and cheese, &c. I went in, 
 laid the table, made the tea, and it grew dusk. "Mrs. 
 Fearne must certainly be staying all night in Durban," 
 was scarcely out of my mouth, when Mrs. Smith came 
 to me and said, " Here is Mrs. Fearne just ridden up 
 with another lady ! " " Oh, dear ! " thought I, " what 
 shall I do?" I went out and welcomed the lady, who 
 proved to be Miss Townsend. Mrs. Fearne had come 
 up to her near the entrance to our bush-path. She was 
 on her road to the Isipingo station, and wished to take 
 our house and Sea View (Mrs. Heathcote's) en route. I 
 sent Mr. Feilden to help the ladies with their horses, 
 and ran in to place two more seats and all necessaries 
 at the tea-table, and we enjoyed a very pleasant evening. 
 I slipped away when I could, planned how we should 
 have enough meat for all for Sunday, and after they 
 had all said " good-night," I mixed a famous loaf, and 
 set it to rise to be baked before breakfast. I rose early, 
 cooked a substantial breakfast with scones for six 
 persons, and we did very well. The two gentlemen 
 left after breakfast, but another arrived for dinner, and 
 we passed a very quiet Sunday, reading the service 
 as usual. This morning, the ladies and two gentle-
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 335 
 
 men are gone to call at Sea View, one to go on to the 
 Umlaas with escort, so I am left for a quiet morning. 
 My husband has to be in Durban, so he must give the 
 lady into a Caffre's charge after leaving Sea View. 
 
 So soon as they were all away, I walked up to poor 
 Mrs. Galliers to see her baby, and condole with her. 
 The child was taken very ill on Saturday afternoon, 
 and excellent Mrs. Smith was a good deal there yester- 
 day, putting it in a warm bath, and administering other 
 remedies. The child looks very ill indeed, and Galliers 
 came home with a swelled face in pain, so the poor 
 wife has had no rest either of mind or body. My 
 troubles are nothing to hers, for I feel so much support 
 under mine, and have always a kindly, loving word or 
 look from my dear husband, which makes things easy. 
 He is again talking of our going home and visiting our 
 dear friends in England, but I never allow myself to 
 dwell upon the thought, so many things may occur to 
 prevent its fulfilment. We both of us require rest for 
 overstrained minds and bodies. The monotony of the 
 long sea voyage seems in my thoughts a luxury to look 
 forward to. Only we shall return much poorer than 
 when we set out. 
 
 May yth. — We have been very busy packing up to be 
 ready in case we do go to England, and we are sending 
 away a good many articles we do not require, which 
 would only spoil if left here. Good Mrs. Smith helps 
 and lets her boys help, but she has plenty to do for her 
 own family (she makes all their clothes and does the 
 housework also). Her boys are required for out-door 
 work. I had another unaccountable fit during the 
 night, but a hard day's work and overstrained mind 
 may have been the cause. I am well again to-day, 
 though heavy, and am working harder than ever. It 
 must be done, so there is no use making a fuss about it. 
 
 Yes ! Our visitor was Miss Heathcote ; she goes 
 home to-day. We make no concealment of the fact, 
 though we do not tell people that my brother and she 
 are regularly engaged to each other, and we invited the 
 young lady to stay with us to give them better oppor-
 
 336 My African Home ; or, 
 
 tunities of learning each other's dispositions, as well as 
 to enable ourselves to know more of her. I think she 
 is a very good girl, and ladylike, and that she will 
 make my brother an excellent wife, and I think none 
 the less of her for having shown reserve and backward- 
 ness before making up her mind. She seems a well- 
 principled, affectionate, thoughtful girl, and we are very 
 well pleased it should be so, for my brother might have 
 chanced on one far otherwise, and a bachelor's life is a 
 very dull one in the bush. Mrs. Fearne is still with us, 
 and so is W. Whittaker, whose leg forbids him driving 
 the wagon up to Richmond as yet. 
 
 May lOth. — We had a call from the Rev. Mr.Crompton 
 on Friday ; we got into a regular argument upon the 
 Holy-week ceremonies at Rome, which he defended in 
 a manner I thought unbecoming a clergyman of the 
 Church of England. He told me it was because I did 
 not fully understand or enter into the meaning of the 
 various ceremonies, that I could not properly enjoy them, 
 so I replied that I had enjoyed them, and so had I 
 enjoyed the opera, without fully understanding it. I 
 felt very indignant, but fortunately remembered the 
 danger of losing my temper, though I felt getting hot. 
 He instanced the beauty of that imposing ceremony of 
 the Holy Week, the washing of the pilgrims' feet, and 
 wished we would follow their example. Mr. Feilden 
 (who loves a joke) regrets he did not bring in Friday, 
 the Caffre, and a tub of water, and ask him to commence 
 there and then ! I asked what humility he saw in the 
 Pope sprinkling water from a golden ewer on the feet 
 of twelve monks, chosen for the performance, and then 
 presenting them each with the elegant napkin with 
 which he had touched the foot ? He replied that there 
 was no pretence in Don Miguel (I think he said) scrub- 
 bing the beggars' feet ; he wished I had seen the old 
 gentleman doing it so heartily. I said I had seen royal 
 and noble ladies do the same, and I had seen the old 
 dowager Queen of Naples, with a beggar on each arm, 
 walking through the midst of us, who went on purpose 
 to see the sight, she hoping, doubtless, to have washed
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 337 
 
 away a good many of her sins by the display. Mr. 
 Crompton replied that he wished our Queen would exer- 
 cise a little more humility and religion, for when she 
 went to Paris she was of no religion at all. I really 
 feared lest Victoria might have been led to give her 
 countenance or presence to something wrong, so I asked, 
 "How was that ?" "At least," he replied, "she had no 
 chaplain with her." " Oh ! " I said rather satirically, " I 
 did not know a chaplain was necessary to religion. I am 
 sorry to find you think so much of forms and ceremonies." 
 Mr. Feilden, finding the subject likely to get rather 
 serious, proposed to adjourn to the garden, upon which 
 I laughed and said, "Yes, you had better go, for you 
 and I will never agree." So we shook hands, and I saw 
 him no more. I heard of him afterwards as preaching 
 somewhere about Pine Town in a scarlet surplice. But 
 here have I been wasting my time writing of this foolish 
 story, when I should have been salting the legs of the 
 buck I got to-day, to make " beltung," to eat on the 
 passage home ! 
 
 May nth. — We have all been watching a red moon, 
 lying, as it seemed, on the edge of the ground. Mr. 
 and Mrs. Mellor rode up, just in time for the beautiful 
 and singular sight, and we paced up and down the ter- 
 race-walk for a long time, watching the rising, clearing, 
 and light of the moon. I like Mrs. Mellor ; there is the 
 germ of a fine character in her. Our dear Mrs. Fearne 
 is still with us, but anxious now to find an opportunity 
 and escort to return to Richmond. We shall part from 
 her with regret ; we have now been several months 
 together in the most intimate companionship. 
 
 May22nd. — Feniscowles. The Jane Morice has brought 
 me a charming letter from a dear sister, just three months 
 after its date, so the little vessel has made another good 
 passage. Leyland hopes so to arrange our affairs that 
 we may go back to England in her for a year or more ; 
 and, though I doubt it we shall get away at all, I do 
 everything with the thought prominent of " If we go." 
 For instance, I have prepared a travelling-skirt, and re- 
 modelled my bonnet more in shape of those I see in the 
 
 z
 
 338 My African Home ; or, 
 
 Illustrated Times, so as to be fit to land and pass on 
 without all the people staring at last century's fashions. 
 If we do not go, my snugger little bonnet may lay by for 
 the next five years, by which time possibly none at all 
 will be worn. 
 
 The sugar estate looks well this year, as if it would 
 redeem itself. My brother brings word that he has- seen 
 some most beautiful sugar being made there. There is 
 last year's leeway to be made up, but there is hope in 
 the good beginning of a new season. v 
 
 My brother is looking uncommonly well. He is lite- 
 rally full of his own prospects and hopes ; and well he 
 may be so, for he is to become a Benedict in less than a 
 week ! I hope all will go well with him. In a land like 
 this, he will be happier and more comfortable with a 
 wife than without. Andrew may in one sense be blinded 
 by the little god, but in another he has his eyes open, 
 and thinks he is prepared to meet everything. In reply 
 to a question of mine as to the usefulness of the lady he 
 has chosen, he said he never saw any one get through so 
 much work as Georgina, except Mary Whigham. We 
 hear a very good account of her from all quarters, and I 
 liked her manners and behaviour during her week's visit 
 to us.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 339 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 I MUST give the account of the wedding- here, as I find 
 it written in a letter to my dearest mother, June 2nd. 
 
 "The 26th of May was fixed for the bridal day, and a 
 large party of friends were asked to assemble and 
 witness. Andrew invited Mr. Fearne, as the first friend 
 he had made in the colony, to bring his daughter 
 Miriam from Richmond, and himself tie the knot. 
 Dear, bright Miriam was enchanted to come to the 
 wedding, and her father was flattered and pleased that 
 my brother did not forget him. 
 
 " It was agreed that on the morning of the marriage, 
 which was to take place in the prettily situated little 
 church in Claremont Grounds, about a mile from Mrs. 
 Heathcote's house of Sea View, the bridegroom, with 
 Daniel Whittaker as groomsman, and Leyland, should 
 ride to the church, while we three ladies and Mr. Fearne 
 should go in Mr. Fearne's covered cart, and — odd as it 
 will sound to your ears — the parson driving six in hand, 
 and moving at the rate of three or four miles an hour. 
 It was at least safer to be drawn in a cart by steady 
 oxen, than in a carriage with four horses. A lovely 
 road our bush-path was. The distance to the church 
 must have been five miles, and my brother frightened 
 us all so about the time, to hurry us, that I was quite in 
 a fidget lest we should really be too late for Mr. Fearne 
 to marry them before twelve o'clock. However, we 
 found ourselves among the first arrivals. The clergy- 
 man of the church, the Rev. Mr. Robertson, and his 
 wife, were there, and they had as far to ride as we. 
 Mrs. Fynn, Mr. Phillipps (uncle of the bride), and some 
 neighbours were chatting, gaily dressed, in the pretty 
 
 z 2
 
 340 My African Home ; or, 
 
 field in which the little church lies. Presently others 
 arrived, and the riders tied their horses under a large 
 old tree, laying their saddles down on the grass. Pre- 
 sently up rode my husband, looking so nice, wearing 
 Mary's red cap. There was quite a variety in the hats 
 and caps of the gentlemen (one helmet was amongst 
 them), and Leyland's looked really distinguished and 
 foreign, with its handsome blue tassel and band. After 
 chatting near an hour with different people, there was a 
 sensation of something particular, and a cavalcade of 
 gentlemen on horseback approached from the Sea View 
 side of the church. It was the bridegroom, with his 
 escort of groomsmen. Each gentleman unsaddled his 
 own horse in one moment, and up we all went to meet 
 the bridegroom. By-and-by the white covers of the 
 wagon were visible on the road below, and the gentle- 
 men went to the gate to escort the bride and her party. 
 
 " My brother did not look anything like his best ; 
 people had been remarking how handsome he would 
 look, but he was nervous and pale. The bride looked 
 very nice in white net over sarcenet (she was her 
 own dressmaker), with a wreath of orange blossoms, and 
 a large lace veil thrown over the whole. Miriam Fearne 
 and the bride's two young sisters were bridesmaids, the 
 latter in white frocks and hats, with bridal favours. 
 
 " We nearly filled the little church, for besides the 
 grown-up company there were a heap of little children, 
 and some Caft're school-children, pupils of Mr. Robert- 
 son, who came to see the show, dressed in blue checked 
 shirts, tied in at their waists. One little chubby fellow, 
 about four years old, clung to Mrs. Robertson as if 
 she were his nurse. The ' happy pair ' were at last 
 united, the bride looking quite composed and happy, 
 promising to be obedient before she was asked ; as Mr. 
 Fearne remarked, she got before him. 
 
 " A wagon had the honour of conveying the nouveanx 
 marics back to the house for the dejeuner cu suite, with 
 three or four others, and a number of horsemen, or 
 outriders I ought to call them. The cold collation was 
 Had on a temporary table under the branches of an
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 341 
 
 enormous old tree, and the guests- walked down to the 
 spot through groves of magnificent orange-trees, laden 
 with fruit, and avenues of fine banana-trees. 
 
 "I must inform you, my dear mother, that the 
 Wesphalian ham and two of the Russian tongues went 
 to the breakfast, and were excellent, and that Mrs. 
 Smith cooked them at our house, along with a young 
 turkey, and that I made a substantial and capital curry 
 pie, for all which helps they were very glad, for they 
 had all quite enough to do. I was surprised that Mrs. 
 Heathcote should attempt to have more than relations 
 at the marriage, but there were some kind neighbours 
 who lent glass, spoons, forks, &c, who could not be left 
 out, and one led to another being invited. The brides- 
 maids came from a distance, and their brothers must 
 be asked, so we mustered more than thirty grown 
 persons at breakfast, and a iot of children, who trotted 
 behind the seats from one to another, getting a bit 
 everywhere. My husband was asked suddenly to take 
 the head of the table, rather to his discomfiture, while 
 Mr. Phillipps was at the bottom, with me at his left 
 hand. My husband acquitted himself very well, indeed 
 I thought the day owed a good deal of its success to 
 his determined cheerfulness in carrying it off well. I 
 was told (for, of course, at the distance I could not hear) 
 that he made a very neat little speech, proposing the 
 health of the bridegroom and bride, spoke of having 
 long known my brother, and said that a dutiful son and 
 affectionate brother could hardly fail to make a good 
 husband. Andrew replied very nicely, bringing in his 
 friend Mr. Fearne's name — as marrying them — very 
 prettily, as the first friend he found in Natal. But all 
 things come to an end, and so must a wedding dinner, 
 for such it was in fact to all there, and tolerably hungry 
 you will allow them to be after a long early ride or 
 weary wagon drive, so that it was near two o'clock 
 before we sat down to eat. After seeing the couple off 
 (the bridesmaids throwing old shoes after them), we 
 proposed to inspan and commence our journey home, 
 when some of the young people begged for a dance
 
 342 My African Home ; or, 
 
 f under the green-wood tree,' and one gentleman volun- 
 teering as musician on the accordion, we all adjourned 
 once more to the scene of the feast. The young men 
 who had put up the table the evening before, speedily 
 pulled it to pieces to make more space ; a quadrille was 
 tried, then a waltz ; we married ladies sitting under the 
 branches. A Scotch reel was then proposed, and Ley- 
 land dragged me up to set it going, * because I knew 
 it thoroughly,' though I tried to plead my inability to 
 hear the music sufficiently well. 
 
 " At last our 'six-in-hand ' got home, just as the sun 
 was setting. We found my husband, on his horse, had 
 been at home a full hour by a shorter track. On his 
 road in the morning he had called in on Mrs. Bowen, to 
 show himself. He found her in the act of watching 
 with eager interest the white canvas of some of the 
 wagons, as seen a long distance off on the road below 
 her. She was exclaiming ' There they go, I see the 
 wagon.' It was a pleasant peep for her ; her romance 
 would supply the rest, and her versatile and elastic 
 mind would afford many a beautiful simile with appro- 
 priate recollections and anecdotes. 
 
 " You will wonder, my dear mother, where your son 
 took his wife for the honeymoon, or if straight to his 
 farm. He hired a couple of rooms in a cottage on the 
 Berea (a wooded hill of great beauty round the bay, 
 where houses are springing up) for a fortnight, the 
 woman of the house to attend on them. We have not 
 seen them since — it was a week yesterday — but I had a 
 very happy note from Andrew, who is perfectly satisfied 
 with everything. They are half-way between our 
 Feniscowles and his farm, and had ridden across the 
 river Umgeni one day to see the place, and had lunched 
 off bread and some of your ' delicious black-currant 
 jam.' My brother said everything was looking so nice, 
 and the hut so comfortable ; so I wonder almost that 
 they do not go straight home, superintend any extra 
 building he talks of making, postpone their proposed 
 trip to Graham's Town by steamer for another year, and
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 343 
 
 put the money so saved into their new house. How- 
 ever, I have not said a word in the matter, and possibly 
 a journey put off is as good as given up, and Andrew 
 may be trusted to guide his own barque ; at all events 
 he must learn by experience now. If Georgie only 
 prove prudent he will escape many troubles, having our 
 experience before him ; but, as Leyland says, 'There 
 are wheels within wheels in Natal, and an upright man 
 cannot imagine them.' We have learned to know a 
 little of the wickedness of the world in our experience of 
 Natal life ; but one thing I have learned which I often 
 suspected in England, that with a few necessary ex- 
 ternals secured, happiness and real enjoyment of life 
 must come from within, rather than from without. My 
 life during the last five years has been so real, so full of 
 action and employment, that Mary's last letter, de- 
 scribing all the gaiety and balls, seems to my work-day 
 ideas like a whirl of folly, dissipation, and loss of time. 
 My English friends wonder that, living my simple, quiet 
 life in the wilderness, I can make my letters so interest- 
 ing. To me it seems as if nature, and the observation 
 of new characters undisguised by cultivation and polish, 
 afford infinitely more variety than a round of fashion- 
 able life. I can still understand the enjoyment in 
 dancing — there is something so springy and luxurious 
 in the motion — but life seems made for something more 
 serious than to be passed in a succession of balls and 
 great dinners ; for these, with the consequent calls, and 
 dressings, and rests, and fashions, all to be given way to, 
 must fill up nearly all the day and all the thoughts. I 
 begin to be afraid to pass my time lightly, and, in truth, 
 I find pleasure in a simpler life and more serious con- 
 cerns. I scarcely read a novel, lest I should become 
 too much interested and leave some duty undone. I do 
 not think I can ever again lose sight of the real business 
 of life, its end, and my interest in it, nor do I desire 
 to do so. It is worth thinking about. 
 
 " Leyland has offered my brother the use of our house 
 while his is being built, unless they prefer living in his
 
 344 My African Home ; or, 
 
 nice hut on the spot, to speed the builders by their 
 presence, which is what I would do. Mrs. Fearne was 
 over there for two nights, and said she could live very 
 comfortably in his hut. The nice canisters, all filled, 
 too, will make them feel quite independent. He has 
 still a large piece of a truly good cheese left, he tells me, 
 but we have made a good hole in it, for he has. dis- 
 tributed to several who have been more or less attentive 
 to him. A cheese like that is a luxury out here, and so 
 very handy if visitors come in unexpectedly to get 
 something to eat, as so often happens with us. 
 
 "Beef, which is the staple flesh meat, costs 2d., 2jd., or 
 3d. per pound according to the joint : a whole leg is gd. 
 We make the liquor of the boiled meat into soup, 
 thickened with rice, or vermicelli, or pumpkin, &c. 
 Cold meat we hash or curry ; curry is cheap here. We 
 do not trouble about puddings much, having no milk 
 and often few eggs to spare, but we boil rice and some 
 of our fruits with a little sugar, which every one likes. 
 Only brown sugar is used in the colony; you rarely 
 see any other. We get a sack of rice at a time, and a 
 sack of flour (this time it is Boer's meal which makes 
 good brown bread). At this season our garden supplies 
 so much manioc, which takes the place of potatoes, and 
 of bread in a great measure, that a single good-sized 
 loaf has sometimes lasted a week, when we have been 
 by our two selves. The tea and sugar perhaps feel 
 company the most ; I cannot always measure the 
 quantity that will be required. Tea is liked at all meals, 
 and the cold tea left in the teapot or silver kettle on a 
 side-table makes a most refreshing drink in a hot cli- 
 mate. Often our visitors drink nothing but water. 
 
 " We had some good porter from Liverpool which I 
 sometimes take. 1 find it agrees with me, and I some- 
 times think I am deafer if long without it. 
 
 " So our actual house expenses are very small. Occa- 
 sionally we vary our dinners with fowls, which cost 6d. 
 each ; these we feed up for a few days, or allow them to 
 run about to pick up insects, &c. Latterly the fisherman
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 345 
 
 has now and then sent up a good dish of fish, gene- 
 rally small mullet, of which we get twenty for 6d. The 
 fine fruits from our garden supply us with desserts, and 
 luncheon is a bit of bread and cheese, or butter, or pre- 
 serves. This year we have ventured to preserve a little 
 of a new fruit from India, the corinda, which grows well 
 here. We hope to take some of it home for you to 
 taste. 
 
 " We stayed with the Fearnes, at Richmond, nearly as 
 long as they stayed with us, and we never saw anything 
 stronger than tea or coffee on the table. So you see 
 we are not extravagant, though required to be rather 
 hospitable. 
 
 "I have given Andrew two pairsof excellentnewsheets 
 from those we got at Satterfield's. These, with his own 
 set, will be plenty for a beginning ; and I gave Georgie 
 the shawl I bought in Paris, being so well stocked my- 
 self that this just lay in my box, and it will serve her 
 for a best warm shawl for man)' a day. 
 
 " Yesterday her mother, Mrs. Heathcote, made a party 
 to go across the river to spend the day on my brother's 
 farm. I wish I could give you a better idea of localities. 
 In one of the Illustrated News (4th of April, I think, 
 1856 or 1857) there is an excellent representation of the 
 Bay of Durban and the Bluff— the town on one side and 
 the islands in the bay. Our Feniscowles house catches 
 a peep of the corner of the bay. The hill on the pro- 
 perty from which I took my first sketch commands a 
 splendid panoramic view with the bay and open sea be- 
 yond in front. This is the spot where we are to build 
 our stone house when we may have one ! The Umgeni 
 river is behind Durban and falls into the sea ; it will 
 not do for transport of goods. My brother's farm is on 
 the other side of the Umgeni, which is generally ford- 
 able there, except at high tides. You need not fear 
 alligators ; a Caffre has been bitten, I believe, but I 
 never heard of accidents to white men, beyond what we 
 are liable to anywhere in One shape or other. Poor 
 Mrs. Burrop, in crossing a much smaller and more insig-
 
 346 My African Home ; or, 
 
 nificant stream on horseback at the time of the flood, 
 was drowned close up at the bank. Her husband 
 clinging to the saddle, and exclaiming, ' I think you are 
 safe now/' let go his hold and fell back into the river. 
 He was no swimmer, but he got safe to land, and look- 
 ing out for his wife, could not find her ; her body was 
 recovered. She was a beautiful, fair young -Dutch- 
 woman. 
 
 " The large supply of working articles my friends have 
 sent me from England enables me to be generous to my 
 neighbours, who are all glad of a few good needles and 
 pins. I can stock my new sister's work-box. I made her 
 a needle-case like the one Mary S. K. made for me, 
 which is in daily use. It is as well not to have too 
 many steel articles, they rust so quickly. When the 
 Caffres want needle and thread they come to me. I 
 give them my commoner thread, and needles showing 
 signs of rusting ; they rub them smooth, and are very 
 glad of them. I have become very careful in these 
 small matters, and sometimes fear growing into a very 
 screw. 
 
 " The Fearnes left us to make their journey of seventy 
 miles in a rough covered cart. Mr. Hawkins had 
 begged them to bring his wife's sister back with them, 
 and Mr. Fearne had promised to do so. Miss Grice 
 rode up on Wednesday evening to be ready to go with 
 them in their little well-packed cart, and if they did not 
 reach the station-houses they must all sit up on their 
 seats all night — a stretch of kindness to Miss Grice, I 
 think, more than I should have liked to give. They 
 must work hard to get to Richmond by Saturday night, 
 that Mr. Fearne may be ready for his Sunday's duties. 
 The previous Sunday he had kindly officiated in our 
 parlour. I was sorry we did not know in time to send 
 for Mrs. Bowen, who would have greatly valued the 
 privilege. The dear old lady had remembered the bride 
 with a sealed packet, which was presented after her 
 marriage, and Miriam said she was particularly gratified 
 and pleased with it, and by the manner of the gift.
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 347 
 
 " I should not omit to say that, in order to be present at 
 the marriage of her friend; one young lady, Miss Moodie, 
 with one of her brothers, rode 160 miles in six days. 
 The ladies ride fearlessly. Another lady, dressed in 
 a fashionable deep blue and white stamped gauze, white 
 lace mantilla, and elegant bonnet, rode six miles with 
 her habit on the top of all, and no crushing of dress was 
 visible. The day could not have been more lovely."
 
 348 My African Home ; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 We are not particularly well suited with servants. On 
 our return after a short walk, we found both our Caffres 
 had disappeared, and no work was done. I rang the 
 great bell to call Friday from his hiding-place, but no 
 Friday appeared. I rang again, and presently down 
 rushed Smith and his wife from the far end of the 
 forage field, where they were reaping, in a fright lest 
 their little daughter Margaret, who was left in charge 
 of the house, should be on fire ; so a fine commotion I 
 created. When Smith learned the cause, he too began 
 to ring the bell, but soon stopped for fear of alarming 
 his son and the Caffres at their work, and all the host 
 coming to see what was wrong. After an absence of three 
 and a half hours Friday re-appeared with an armful of 
 wood for a pretence, and his hair all metamorphosed, 
 having undergone a regular dressing from the other 
 absentee during the three hours' truancy. 
 
 June 26th. — Poor Alec Smith has blinded himself 
 with his cart whip, and has been ill for two or three 
 days. He hopes to go to his work again on Monday, 
 and I trust no serious injury has been done to his sight. 
 The lash cut across his eyelids, and he is only now 
 beginning to see again. 
 
 " Feniscowles, June 28th. — My DEAR MRS. BOWEN, — 
 I must not go to bed to-night without thanking you for 
 more than one interesting letter, and comforting as 
 showing that your mind is regaining its peace, and 
 rejoicing in thoughts and feelings of praise and thank- 
 fulness in the midst of your solitude. Is not a trouble 
 thus turned into a blessing ? This self-schooling, and
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 349 
 
 the hard tasks we are all learning to conquer, are per- 
 haps a glorious battle, when victory is won over pride 
 by humility, and over discontent by thankfulness, over 
 fear by hope, and over mistrust by simple faith. My 
 husband often reminds me of the many mercies we 
 daily receive ; and only to-day he spoke of how all our 
 wants have been so constantly and graciously supplied, 
 with luxuries and superfluities added, proving to us 
 that we are never forgotten, and that our place of trust 
 should not be in the bank ! I am amazed sometimes 
 at his calm composure, and gentle submission to un- 
 toward circumstances, because I know it does not arise 
 from indifference or want of acute feeling. Shall we 
 not bless our trials if they are working so great a work 
 within us ? Are they not ' blessings in disguise ? ' And 
 yet some of them are hard to bear, and would be harder 
 doubtless if our conscience rebuked us. Not that any 
 of us can stand clear in the sight of God ; I do not 
 mean that, for that would indeed be presumption, but 
 there is a ' balm ' in feeling, like David, ' our hands are 
 clean ' of this or that offence. 
 
 " Thank you. dear Mrs. Bowen, for sending your ' mid- 
 night meditations ' so beautifully versed ; mine are so 
 prosy (when sleep allows me any) and so matter of 
 fact and heavy, that they would not stand beside yours. 
 The feelings and imagery of a poet's mind are so keen 
 and varied, so flowery I may say, that they are not 
 enjoyed without a penance. What depths and despon- 
 dencies often succeed ! The Rev. Robert Montgomery 
 told me he often watered his pillow with the tears of 
 feeling. But there are some eyes that rarely find the 
 relief that a good flood of tears will bring at once. 
 
 "Mr. Fcilden is glad you enjoy the cheese, as 
 much as we have done the tongue you sent. There is 
 still a wee taste of it left for to-morrow's breakfast. 
 Mrs. Gathers brought a very good account of you, 
 and the state of your larder. ' She really thinks you 
 do better without the man.' If you want anything 
 more cooked, please ask me to do it. Would you like 
 another fowl roasted ? If the hens would lay, I might
 
 350 My African Home ; or, 
 
 make you a pudding, but without either eggs or milk 
 that is not easy. I hear the cocoa-nut oil is very hard 
 this cold weather, and requires warm water to liquefy it, 
 so the Etna is rendered useless. Mr. Feilden thinks a 
 commoner oil would answer, though, of course, the 
 cocoa-nut oil is the best and nicest. 
 
 " Thank you for the journal, we mean to read it 
 aloud. Mr. Feilden dipped into it to-night and became 
 interested ; he is reading his favourite Cumming's 
 ' Apocalypse.' Pie will like to read your thoughts 
 on the ' Pleasures of Memory.' 
 
 " I cannot quite fancy white ants as a delicacy, though 
 I do not see why they should not be good. It is pre- 
 judice in us ; you should see Friday with fish ! I can- 
 not persuade him even to touch one to clean it for me, 
 and when Mr. Feilden in fun offered him a piece from 
 our table, the look of disgust was inimitable. And now 
 1 must say good-night, and may pleasant pictures and 
 thoughts solace your wakefulness. Yours affectionately, 
 
 " E. W. Feilden." 
 
 Sunday Morning.—" Dear Mrs. Bowen ,— How are 
 all your aches ? I thought of them this morning as I 
 washed all over in real cold water, and wrapped my 
 flannel-lined dressing-gown round me ; it was made for 
 English winters, but I find it useful here. I wondered 
 if you had such a wrap. It would be a comfort at 
 nights, when you sit at your table, reading — and tireless. 
 The Caffres are all paralyzed with the cold ; we can 
 get nothing like work from them. Friday keeps up a 
 good fire for us, and any work about the fire he does 
 with gusto ; but nothing else, though the very exercise 
 would keep them warm if they would but try. Mr. 
 Feilden complains of back-ache — from cold, I conclude. 
 I wonder if I am sufficiently grateful for my good health, 
 freedom from pains, and great flexibility of limbs, as 
 well as cheerfulness of spirit, which has been so graciously 
 bestowed on me to make up for want of hearing? 
 What personal luxuries and comforts I enjoy, too ! _ In 
 your ' Night of Weeping' I came on a page that strikes 
 me forcibly. ' Riches cannot help, nor earthly comfort
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 351 
 
 avail us in the hour of need. They cannot heal the 
 living, nor bring back the dead.' ' Selfishness in reference 
 to things of Christ springs from coldness towards 
 Christ Himself; it is placing self before, or in the place 
 of Christ.' Are we not apt to think we are working for 
 Christ when really we are making work a substitute for 
 Christ ? Still, it is dangerous to take quite an opposite 
 way of viewing works ; I do not know but that it is the bet- 
 ter fault of the two, for Christ will peep through activity, 
 but be hidden in indolence and self-indulgence. Now 
 it is time for prayers ; so adieu, with much love, com- 
 mending you to the Lord." 
 
 Mr. Robertson came home with us and saw the 
 manioc growing. I fortunately had some cooked, which 
 I fried for luncheon, and he greatly approved it. 
 
 July 2\st. — My brother and his young wife came 
 to us two days ago, she with a bad cold. I taxed the 
 ball with it, but she said she had it before she went. 
 She enjoyed the ball very much, and danced all night. 
 I can enjoy a good dance myself with a good partner 
 and stirring music. 
 
 July 2Jth. — It really looks like going to England now, 
 perhaps in the Jane Morice, which may be detained still 
 a week in harbour. We are busy preparing. 
 
 July $ist. — All our boxes must be in Durban to- 
 morrow by 10 a.m., in order to be shipped within the 
 bay, rather than sending them to the outer anchorage. 
 Then, whenever the wind is fair for sailing, we must 
 start. When our boxes are off I hope we may not be 
 detained long. My brother will occupy our house till 
 his own is ready, riding to and from his farm. He was 
 there yesterday, returning this evening to our dinner, 
 consisting of roast pork, manioc (for potatoes), rice, and 
 two splendid pine-apples, between six people. I wished 
 we could have sent some of our friends a few dozen 
 pines gratis. The weather being colder than usual, ripe 
 pines are scarce, but we shall take a great sackful of 
 green ones to ripen and eat on the voyage. I wish the 
 bananas and papaws would keep to show our friends in 
 England. There is one bunch of papaws, clustering
 
 352 My African Home; or, 
 
 round the top of a single-stemmed tree under its um- 
 brella of leaves, on which I have counted sixty of the 
 fruit, some of them the size of a small head, and 
 diminishing to that of a small turnip. 
 
 July 2%th. — The Government is giving large grants 
 of land to almost any one who asks, in order to induce 
 immigration, on very easy terms. The consequence is 
 that those who hold bought lands find their property 
 very much depreciated in value for the present, and, if 
 they wish to sell, it must be at a sacrifice. This will 
 affect my husband's sales of land, which the loss caused 
 by the great flood of last year obliges him to sell at 
 once. Through being fine land lor sugar-growing, it 
 is sure to rise in value after a time. 
 
 I have been looking out my voyage costume, to save 
 washing on ship-board ; and to-morrow will be an awful 
 day, separating what will be wanted on the passage, 
 what will be required for a few visits on first landing, 
 what may be soldered up, what left behind, and what 
 papers may be destroyed. I have been writing farewell 
 notes to one or two ladies in the colony. This sounds 
 like going ; still there is many a slip betwixt the cup 
 and lip, and I do not feel sure yet. Mrs. Heathcote 
 has kindly sent us a quantity of green lemons for a 
 beverage on the voyage, and our old neighbour, Mrs. 
 Bowen, also sent a few. She will be very lonely now 
 we are going away, she cares for so few about her. We 
 asked her to return with us to England, promising to 
 take care of her on the voyage, and to see that she 
 should get safely and comfortably to her friends in 
 Wales ; but she could not make up her mind to leave 
 Natal at her great age. She said very few of her old 
 friends and companions would be alive, and the younger 
 generation would not care for her. Our excellent 
 farmer's wife, Mrs. Smith, will willingly go over now 
 and then. She has sense and tact, and may be both 
 useful and agreeable ; but she fears it may be deemed 
 intrusion on her part. My dear Mrs. Fearne is too far off 
 to be of any use. I never met with any, except one very 
 old lady, who had all her passions so completely under
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 353 
 
 Christian control. That old- lady, however, beat her out 
 and out, for instead of the solemn, smileless countenance, 
 when passive her face was beaming with love and 
 beauty. Even after her memory failed, and she grew 
 into second childhood, that childishness was all amiable. 
 She has gone to her rest now, but not her good works ; 
 I think that they commenced on this earth. May ours 
 commence here too ! 
 
 The shareholders of the Springfield Sugar Estate 
 voted that Mr. Feilden " had been hardly dealt with," 
 and wished to give him a ton of sugar to sell in London. 
 This, for reasons of his own, he declined to receive, but 
 the offer comforted him. 
 
 "August \st.— My dear Mrs. Bowen — We may 
 yet have many last words, and they seem as if they 
 would never come to an end. My heart grows warmer 
 each minute as the time draws nearer. My husband 
 says he does not deserve all you say of and to him, and 
 really the gold seems coming out of the furnace purer. 
 I hope it will get no new dross by mixing with many 
 metals in England. Our luggage was all away this 
 morning soon after seven, and now it will certainly be 
 uncomfortable if we are detained much longer, with our 
 clothes gone except what can go in a bag. We are 
 taking great bunches of bananas ; how I wish one 
 splendid bunch would keep to show them in England. 
 Smith has found a sackful of pine-apples ; I thought 
 we had not above a dozen or two. We have two hen- 
 coops filled for our eating, and have had such hard 
 work, and been in such a bustle, that now, when all are 
 gone, except the female portion of the household, and 
 the room has been well cleaned, it sounds quite still, i. e. 
 if stillness can sound ? 
 
 " We had a houseful last night ; breakfast was ready 
 for them, prepared by my own fair hands, by a little 
 after seven. Mrs. Smith had as much to do as she 
 could superintend for her half of the house, or two 
 houses rather, and moreover she gave all the four gentle- 
 men and myself a cup of hot coffee from her table to 
 begin with.
 
 354 My African- Home; or, 
 
 " I was so busy yesterday morning that I forgot to 
 think of luncheon or any eatables, till my husband 
 asked ' If I could give them something to eat ' — four 
 persons in all. ' Oh, yes,' said I, wondering at the 
 same time what it was to be, for the bread was nearly 
 finished, the meat quite so, the cheese no bigger than a 
 finger or two, and all forgot! I went into the, kitchen 
 where the Smiths were at a very comfortable dinner, 
 with a large dish of meat and rice. I told my 
 dilemma. 
 
 " ' Oh, we have finished ; will you take this ? it is quite 
 good.' 
 
 " ' Oh, thank you ; but a part of it will do.' 
 
 " ' It can go as it is ; we have finished.' 
 
 " ' And can you spare me a little rice too ? ' They 
 required no more, but looked a little doubtful of offering; 
 the dish of broken rice, so I said it was quite nice, if 
 they would let me have it. So it was put on a clean 
 dish, and we had a capital feast — all hungry with our 
 forenoon's work. So I mean to tell my good man the 
 next time he tells me I have never wanted a meal, 
 that I had to beg my dinner once ! 
 
 " How I do rattle on, and I do not mean to give it up ; 
 I mean, if well enough, to begin a long letter on ship- 
 board, and spin a long, verbose, egotistical yarn, and 
 am vain encugh to believe it will be welcomed at 
 Keventrenfa. 
 
 "Mr. Lamport says \he Jam Morice will certainly not 
 sail before Monday, and that most likely it will be 
 Tuesday or Wednesday. Does that mean Thursday or 
 Friday? It is waiting for the mail, and shall we 
 benefit ? I shall come again soon to see you, and only 
 write this to take advantage of a chance opportunity. 
 
 " August yd. — Thank you a thousand times for all 
 the love displayed in so many little ways. The chickens 
 are to be caught at roost to-night. I hope they will 
 prove fine — they must be tender. Mrs. Smith says the 
 lemons will be greedily received on board, though I 
 thought we were largely supplied by Mrs. Heathcote. 
 " Mr. Feilden and my brother left me plenty of work
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 355 
 
 to-day. One task is to pack a great box that is to be 
 left behind ; the other is to copy a plan of his farm, 
 which he has been reducing to a small scale. I had, 
 besides, all the little arrangements, and divisions, and 
 bestowments to make of sundry stores we leave behind, 
 which may well be made useful during our absence. 
 The Smiths are certainly indefatigable in helping us 
 in every way. Yesterday morning poor Smith's face 
 was white with excitement and pleasure, as he presented 
 us with some birds ready for stuffing. 
 
 " Mrs. Galliers said good-bye as if I was going away 
 for a week, and wished me a pleasant voyage. 
 
 " Mr. Feilden is at the vessel to-day. The wind has 
 got up and is favourable for taking it out of harbour. 
 I am anxious the mail should come in first. I feel 
 stupefied to-day. Mr. Kock came to say good-bye 
 yesterday. He intends going to the Umhlali to-morrow 
 if the mail is in ; he has a horse to run ! 
 
 " Thank you for your ' first rose ; ' it is beautiful. I 
 keep your books for the chance of reading to the end, but 
 business must come first. Farewell, my dearest and 
 most intimate and loved friend in Natal ! May God 
 bless and keep you in peace and comfort, and direct 
 both your movements and ours. We must pray for 
 each other. Ever your affectionate friend, 
 
 " E. W. Feilden." 
 
 A note in Mrs. Bowen's writing attached to this letter, 
 on its return to me after the dear old lady's death at 
 eighty-three years of age, says : — 
 
 " Received the 3rd, and on the 4th they went on 
 board the Jane Morice, not being able to call again ; 
 but Mr. Feilden did most kindly on the 4th, on his way 
 to go on board. Ah ! it is a bereavement to me. 
 Kindly Mr. Kennedy came with him. " M. B." 
 
 A a 2
 
 356 My African Home ; or, 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 August $th. — Here we are fairly on board our old 
 friend the Jane Morice, in our old cabins, to obtain which 
 the two mates had to turn out, much to their annoyance. 
 But we all seem friendly now, so they are reconciled by 
 a smile and a civil word. Thus we shall not require to 
 go downstairs at all, except during meal-times. Our 
 cabin being above, is not only more airy, light, and 
 cheerful, but there are no stairs. 
 
 I think all Durban turned out to wish us don voyage. 
 The cart had frequently to stop, and the gentlemen soon 
 found out who were in it. Mr. Dacomb came out to say 
 good-bye ; he looked so goodnatured that I called him 
 back to tell him I had heard of his kind attention to my 
 friend Mrs. Bowen, and how pleased she had been with 
 it. His rosy face beamed with pleasure as I spoke. 
 The Rev. Mr. Lloyd gave us his blessing ; he has a 
 kindly heart. The Rev. Mr. Crompton rode up and 
 shook hands. Our cart was covered, so that my sister- 
 in-law, myself, and Mrs. Smith (its inmates) were not 
 exposed to view, but our outriders proclaimed us. Mr. 
 
 Kock, Mr. Proudfoot, Mr. Woolley, Mr. , oh ! I don't 
 
 know all who escorted us on board, where we had a 
 capital picnic dinner, some from the ship's stores, but 
 chiefly what we had brought on purpose. In the evening 
 Captain Proudfoot came on board, and made us a very 
 pleasant friendly call, accompanied by the captain of 
 the Lady of the Lake. 
 
 Our vessel is being laden with wool at Algoa Bay, 
 the deck is covered with bales. This morning, with my 
 husband's aid, I climbed on the top and sat on a beam
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 357 
 
 across the vessel, watching the gulls sitting so comfort- 
 ably on the water, or flying over and dipping down to 
 see what was in the empty bottles that had been thrown 
 overboard, and were still afloat. We have had our 
 luncheon off cheese and ship-biscuit, improved by a box 
 of sardines and a beautiful roll of bread we had left at 
 breakfast, washing all down with a bottle of porter. Our 
 little barque -seems only large enough for ourselves ; I 
 cannot imagine how the bishop with his large party, and 
 Mr. and Mrs. Lamport, could manage with any degree 
 of comfort. 
 
 One day I asked the captain if he could give me 
 something to do, whereupon the mate said the British 
 flag wanted mending, so I mended the flag, and was 
 glad to fancy myself a little useful. It gave me about 
 two hours' good work. Leyland has turned bird-cage 
 maker. The mate has two canaries ; one cage was 
 broken, so my husband mended it for him with a bit of 
 wire I produced from my basket, and finding it suitable 
 ship-board work, he bought some wire on shore, and is 
 to exercise his genius in making cages. He has already 
 completed one very nicely, and has engaged a man to 
 bring him some birds. 
 
 I was ill yesterday, having one of those unaccountable 
 fits just after I had dressed ; it hung about me all day, 
 but I am well again. When I became partly conscious, 
 I saw my husband standing anxious beside me, making 
 me swallow something, and the captain's anxious face 
 peeping in from the curtain that shut our cabin from 
 the rest of the vessel. He was a kind-hearted, easy- 
 going Yankee, not over particular in dress or manners. 
 
 August 22nd. — Here we are, still in Algoa Bay, and 
 likely to be here still ten days or a fortnight. Though 
 we are very well off, and may be thankful, still ours is 
 not an enviable position compared with that of those 
 who possess a comfortable home on terra Jirma. The 
 men are busy packing the vessel with wool. I was 
 down in the hold yesterday to watch the pressing opera- 
 tion, and beguiled part of the day with fishing over the 
 end of the vessel ; but our lines were not good, and they
 
 358 My African Home ; or, 
 
 broke in bringing up the best fish. We saw plenty of 
 mullet dancing about the bait, and nibbling it off veryskil- 
 fully without taking the hook in. We mended our lines, 
 however ; for we supplied the table with good fresh fish 
 during the whole five weeks we were in Algoa Bay, be- 
 sides salting a quantity of mullet for the voyage. It 
 was my luck to catch the first fish. I raised a -shout of 
 delight to bring my husband to witness my triumph, 
 but what was my horror when I landed it on deck to 
 see it swell out, as if it was an india-rubber ball ! It 
 was a toadfish, and poisonous. 
 
 On Sunday the shore signal to vessels in harbour was 
 "prepare for bad weather." The gulls were sitting 
 lovingly on the heaving waves, but the wind began to 
 blow and the ship to rock at anchor like a cradle. I 
 believe it rocked me to sleep, for I enjoyed a thoroughly 
 good night's rest. The town looked even pretty and 
 picturesque when I came on board in the morning. It 
 Mas raining, which softened the landscape, while the 
 early morning coloured the town. The Donkin monu- 
 ment stood marked out in the sky like a clumsy, but 
 picturesque pyramid. I never see it without feeling 
 ihat the architect stopped its growth at half its height. 
 The first day of our arrival I actually mistook it for a 
 soldier's tent erected on the hill ; but, doubtless, the 
 feelings that raised Lady Elizabeth Donkin's monument 
 were those of deep affection and are to be respected. 
 
 The storm-signals had been right ; the commotion 
 in the bay was tremendous. I think we lost an anchor, 
 but the mate told me we had fared better than most of 
 our neighbours. One vessel was driving about, having 
 broken from two anchors, while our small vessel had 
 pitched up and down with the waves, and so was spared 
 by not resisting. He said there was scarcely a vessel 
 that was not loosened ; and I had slept through it all. 
 
 There is a heavy surf on this coast, so that common 
 boats cannot land without a wetting. A kind of ferry 
 whale-boat plies between vessels and the shore, and 
 must make a good thing of it, as the hire for the first 
 time of landing and back costs i/. No boat could leave
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 359 
 
 the shore yesterday, consequently the wool-packing 
 went on badly. The rain, however, has calmed the sea, 
 and the stevedore came on board this morning, and 
 very politely rolled four oranges towards me over the 
 table in the saloon. Last we^k three of the sailors each 
 gave me one, which I fancy came on board the same 
 way ; it was nice in them. 
 
 The wool. packing is a much more laborious business 
 than I had any idea of, it is quite a business of itself. 
 The stevedore brings his screws, logs, &c, and the 
 sailors work under him. The cumbrous bales are rolled 
 into their appointed places by means of tugs, with hooks 
 and pushes, heaves and pulls ; then boards are placed 
 between in which, with logs they call "Sampsons," 
 great screws are inserted. As the bulk is compressed 
 larger screws are admitted, and it takes a man's strength 
 or more, to turn the screws by means of iron bars. 
 When fairly lodged, pulleys are worked to draw out the 
 boards, which the sailors effect as if they were setting 
 the sails, singing to keep their pull in time. 
 
 A vessel close beside us is being taken to pieces ; it 
 is condemned as having sprung a leak — a showy vessel, 
 called The Exhibition. It is only five years old, and 
 they tell me it is all worm-eaten. When she is quite 
 dismantled, they talk of running her in shore to form 
 part of a breakwater or pier, which the inhabitants are 
 beginning to think necessary. I should have thought 
 it so long ago. 
 
 Port Elizabeth has more than trebled its size since 
 my husband was there six years ago. The warehouses 
 and buildings are of stone, there are two handsome- 
 looking churches, for a colony, and everything has the 
 air of doing well in a commercial way. But the place 
 looks bare, and there are no banana or papaw-trees 
 giving that peculiarly attractive warm look to a place. 
 It looks a seaside mercantile town, and nothing more. 
 
 August list. — "I hope, my dear Mrs. Bowen, that 
 you are gaining the victory over your troubles, and if 
 you want any one to tell them to, as you used to tell me, 
 take a sheet of paper, write a little at a time, and fancy
 
 360 My African Home ; or, 
 
 you have sent it to me, and when the mail leaves, your 
 sheet, by that time well filled, can follow me. Your 
 letters will always find a welcome, as I have ever found 
 them full of interest, information, anecdote, and origi- 
 nality. I wish I had your power ; I would then amuse 
 myself by writing a book, and I tell my husband I 
 would call my book ' Influence.' I would depict its 
 power in every variety of form, from the gentlest to the 
 most powerful, from the expression on the face to the 
 force of practical deeds. But my good man gives me a 
 hint to be quick with my letter ; the steam is getting 
 up, and as my steam has hardly done that yet, I fear 
 my performance will be but sorry. 
 
 " I must not omit to tell you that we are as comfort- 
 able and content with our situation as the nature of it 
 permits, and that we pass our time without much ennui; 
 reading, working, iisning, carpentering, and, last but not 
 least of our entertainments, eating. Meal-time is quite 
 a resource on ship-board ; it cannot come much too 
 often ; not that we are hungry — our breakfast is too 
 substantial for that — but it forms a pleasant variety. 
 When you come to England, be sure to take on board 
 a bit of cheese you like, for, though there may be plenty 
 of food, the beef and mutton are so tough that you will 
 never be able to eat a mouthful of it, unless you have a 
 better cook and better meat than we have here. It is 
 not half so good as Natal beef and mutton, and they 
 were tough enough. — Yours, &c, " E. W. F." 
 
 October 8///.— South Atlantic Ocean, io° 12' S., io° 
 48' W. On board the. Jane Monce. 
 
 I am averse to writing here, there is no comfort in it ; 
 the position crooked (owing to the glass sides of the 
 table), the ink bad, and the top of the table continually 
 required, either for eating or to give air to the cabin 
 below. In many ways we are well off; but the. Jane 
 Morice should never have taken charge of us home, had 
 we known of the bugs which swarm, of the mate's un- 
 pleasant, vulgar behaviour, or of five long weeks' deten- 
 tion in Algoa Bay, through an uncompleted cargo. The 
 captain is a goodnatured under-bred Yankee, who wishes
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 361 
 
 to make our voyage pleasant. Mr. Gavin, the only other 
 cabin passenger, if not particularly polished, is not offen- 
 sive, except in the matter of spitting, in which the captain 
 is an adept. In the evenings the cabin is lighted by 
 a large, ill-constructed oil lamp, hanging from the ceiling 
 to make darkness visible. It is next to impossible 
 either to read or sew by its light. For some time we 
 went to bed as soon as tea was over, and Mr. Feilden 
 would read by the light of his own lamp a good part of 
 the night, while I learned to sleep ten hours out of the 
 twenty-four ; but, after we sailed from Algoa Bay, the 
 captain brought out a pack of very greasy cards, and 
 asked if we had any objection to taking a hand at whist ? 
 Though neither of us cares for the game, there were 
 several things to be considered. First, these two men 
 had no way of amusing themselves, and might bring 
 in two others from the other end of the vessel to make 
 up their table, while sundry other little reasons induced 
 us both without consultation to accept the offer, provided 
 that there were no stakes. They were quite happy, 
 and so the cards came out nightly. We have a merry 
 rubber, in which we contend for the winning quite 
 eagerly, and, as there is no risk, it serves to keep all 
 in good humour, and does not wear out our sight trying 
 to see to read ; also, it helps to pass the evening till 
 eight or nine o'clock, when we retire to our cabin. 
 
 There are other disagreeables besides those I have 
 named, and one in particular. Some hides were put 
 on board as freight, which breed innumerable flies that 
 are a constant torture. Everything we eat or drink gets 
 covered with them. Leyland has done what he can to 
 diminish their number, and has set decanters with the 
 dregs of wine or beer in to catch them. It is a 
 curiosity to see the decanter half full of the drunken, 
 drowned flies. These he gives to his chickens, of which 
 he has four pets, and also a white Chinese hen. We 
 sweep down hundreds of flies besides, and every now 
 and then Leyland holds what he calls an auto-da-fe in 
 the morning, brushing down thousands from the sides of 
 the cabin. All these little things are great annoyances, 
 
 B b
 
 362 My African Home ; or, 
 
 and require great patience ; the disgust we cannot help. 
 We are in our tenth week on board, and are only 
 two days' sail past St. Helena ! We have come well 
 on the whole, for the five weeks' idleness in Algoa 
 Bay must be deducted. 
 
 We passed very close to St. Helena, but it was 
 night, and the moon was considerably obscured by 
 clouds ; still I saw the fatal rock, and in the gloom 
 of evening it did look a dismal place to pass one's 
 life upon. For a moment, we thought we were going 
 to pay an involuntary visit at St. Helena, and I thought 
 of Bonaparte ; but I believe it was our ignorance and 
 the deception of the mist, which made us think we were 
 driving on the island. For a moment we each experi- 
 enced a sensation I need not describe. We were going 
 very fast with the wind strong for the rock, but I be- 
 lieve the captain knew he had time to alter the course 
 of the vessel. 
 
 We have been running a sort of friendly race with the 
 brig Shepherdess, which left Algoa Bay the day after we 
 did. She is the quicker sailer, and I believe a better 
 built boat. She has twice passed us, once so close that 
 we spoke. Now we are the first, for she put in at St. 
 Helena. The first time we passed her she was becalmed, 
 so it is the story of the hare and the tortoise ; the hare 
 goes to sleep while the tortoise moves steadily on. 
 
 October i^th. — Darkness obliged me to put away my 
 desk, and until now I have not had resolution enough to 
 write again. The heat during the last few days has been 
 intense, and laziness the consequence, but we are sailing 
 famously now in the trade winds, about 1 50 miles daily. 
 Ah ! how much does that sound in these days of steam ? 
 We catch the flying fish and the little shells called 
 " Portuguese men-of-war," floating so gracefully, and 
 there are Mother Cary's chickens. The other day we 
 saw a great whale sporting, and this morning, before 
 sunrise, the steward brought a flying fish to our cabin. 
 I chanced to be awake, so I crossed to my husband's 
 side of the cabin to learn the cause of the steward's early 
 visit, and saw a can of water, but the fish had flown
 
 Bush Life in Natal. 363 
 
 away. After a hunt it was secured, and I was pleased 
 to examine the little thing for a few moments, so 
 elegant and light upon the water. 
 
 We commence our eleventh week at sea. Two or three 
 days ago we passed Ascension Isle. We have seen a 
 good many vessels, which is cheerful. The heat has 
 made Mr. Feilden very weak ; he is patient and cheerful, 
 but weary of the vessel, and we hope soon to be on land 
 again. 
 
 November 2Jth. — Still battling about, going the wrong 
 way. The captain is losing all patience with the wind, 
 and we all begin to grow restless. . . . 
 
 We were just eighteen weeks on board, from the 5th of 
 August. Our friends in England had been very anxious, 
 and feared that something had gone wrong with the 
 vessel. During one fortnight we made scarcely any way, 
 but tossed about, trying to get between the Azore 
 Islands, I believe. I have not kept a note of the date 
 of our landing. It must have been the first week in 
 December, 1857. Provisions of various kinds were 
 running short, the salt was finished, the tea was finished, 
 and, worst of all, the lamp went out for lack of oil. A 
 fog was on the English Channel, and castor-oil had to be 
 burned in the lamp tied to the mast-head. We sat in 
 the cabin very nearly in darkness. At last, however, we 
 landed in England, and my feelings were such when I 
 entered an hotel that I could scarcely resist embracing 
 the chamber-maid, Leyland feeling the same impulse 
 towards the men in the yard, who assembled round him 
 like a raree show. I dare say we were strange, uncouth- 
 looking objects ; I felt as such, when stepping into a first- 
 class carriage on the rail for London, I confronted a 
 dapper, little, well-dressed, business-looking gentleman, 
 with a brilliant diamond ring on his little finger. I 
 compared my old, ugly, sea-worn woollen cloak with 
 his fashionable clothes, and no longer wondered at his 
 look of surprise. 
 
 A dense, yellow fog reigned in London as we drove 
 through on our way to Streatham. The streets seemed 
 nearly deserted ; but the first lady I saw walking had her
 
 364 My African Home, etc. 
 
 dress tucked up, and a scarlet and black woollen skirt 
 below. Fashion had wholly changed to allow of such 
 an under-garment since last I was in London. I soon 
 discovered that, with all my care in Natal to provide 
 suitable clothing for my first arrival, I was indeed quite 
 out of fashion. Hoops were worn, and each lady 
 measured about three yards round, with her dress 
 sweeping the floor. One of the first things I was told 
 was that I did not wear a sufficient number of skirts, 
 and truly this English climate admits of the wearing of 
 several. We have both taken cold by the change of 
 climate. 
 
 These reminiscences of my " African Home " are at an 
 end. I need not say how kindly we were welcomed by 
 both my own family and my husband's, nor how long we 
 trespassed on their hospitality, which never seemed to 
 weary. 
 
 We never returned to Natal, but I kept up a corre- 
 spondence with my dear old friend, Mrs. Bovven, who 
 lived to the age of eighty-three. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
 GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. JOHN S SQUARE, LONDON.
 
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