THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES THE OF -"tees* THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID ft .•-- :--x;-^- V .♦ PRACTICAL NOTES. PRACTICAL NOTES MADE DURING A TOUR IN CANADA, AND A PORTION OF THE UNITED STATES, IN MDCCCXXXI. BY ADAM FERGUSSON, OF WOODHILLj ADVOCATE. DEDICATED BY PERMISSION TO THE HIGHLAND SOCIETY OF SCOTLAND. « VIDI." WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH ; AND T. CADELL, STRAND, LONDON. MDCCCXXXIII. r'RINTBD BV NKI1.L & CO. OLD PISHMARK£T. r TO THE PRESIDENT, VICE-PRESIDENTS, AND DIRECTORS OF THE HIGHLAND SOCIETY OF SCOTLAND. My Lords axd Gentlemen, To whom can I with equal propriety, and with so much honour to myself, address these humble pages, as to the Official Department of that Patriotic Association, under whose kind and flattering encourage- ment I was first led to preserve my cursory remarks. An Institution so pre-eminently distinguished as the Highland Society, woidd require to exercise the most fastidious reserve regarding publications which may issue under t/ie sanction of its name. While it is my duty, tlierefore, and my pride , to acknowledge the kind ccmfidence of the Directors, in extending to me a permissio?i which it is unusual to grant, I must, in the most unequivocal tnannenr, exonerate the Society from any concurrence in the views of the Author, arising from the mere fact of having accepted his humble dedication.a-s. r— o /-> r' CHAPTER X. Stage-coach Journey through Toronto and Trafalgar Townships— The " Farmer's Inn"—" Summer's T;u vern" — Nelson Township — Visit to Guelph Town — A Forest Ride — Negro Family, .... 116^124 CONTENTS. XIll CHAPTER XI. Page Town of Guelph — Visit to Gait Farm — Equestrian Excur- sion to Brandtford and Hamilton — Interview with a Scotch Borderer— Mohawk Village, . . . 125^140 CHAPTER XII. Journey from Hamilton to Grimsby and St Catharine's — Return to Niagara — American Fall — Goat Island — Leaping the Fall — A Canadian Spring Day, . 141^148 CHAPTER XIII. Visit to Buffalo — Hints to Emigrants as to the Choice of a Situation in Canada — Means of Education — Prices of Live-Stock, Implements, Produce. Labour. Furni- ture, 149^162 CHAPTER XIV. Town of Buffalo — The Bank — American Hotels — Track- Boat on the Erie Canal for Rochester — Floating Me- nagerie — Deposit of Fossil Wood in progress to Coal — Anecdotes of New Orleans by an American Travel- ler, 163~172 CHAPTER XV. Town of Rochester — Aqueduct across the Genesee — Wa- terfall — Sam Patch — Stage-coach to Canandaigua — State of the Country — To^vn of Canandaigua — Mode of preserving Ice, 173~182 CHAPTER XVI. Town of Geneva — Value of Land — Small' Town of Au- burn — Its State Prison — Journey to Utica — The Town — Road to Schenectady — Sir AVilliam Johnston — Tra- velling from Schenectady to Albany — Return by Steam- er to New York — Altered Face of the Country, . 183<,194 XIV CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. Past- Steam-boat and Coach Journey to Philadelphia — Intelli- gent American Grazier — Bordentown— Joseph Bona- parte — Banks of the Delaware — City of Philadelphia — Oppressive Heat — Visit to Laurelhill — Sail down the Delaware, and through Chesapeake Bay to Baltimore, 195^204 CHAPTER XVIII. City of Baltimore— Journey to Washington — Internal Slave-trade denounced — Capital of the United States — Halls of Congress and Senate, and the Capitol — Inter- view with General Jackson, the President — Visit to Mount Vernon — Tomb of General Washington — Re- turn to New York, 205^222 CHAPTER XIX. Character of the Americans — Jealousy of Independence Catechetical Propensity — Pedantic Nomenclature — Peculiar Phraseology — Personal Habits — Servants or Helps Respect for the Fair Sex — State of Religion and ftlorality — American Constitution and Pul)lic ]Men Misrepresentations of the Quarterly Review and Captain Basil Hall, 223-250 CHAPTER XX. Embark in the George Canning for England — Account of the Great Sea Serpent confirmed^— Arrival at Liver- pool 25U2.56 CONTENTS. XV PART 11. CHAPTER I. Page Lower Canada — Climate — Soil — ^Agriculture — Markets — Upper Canada — Lumber-trade — Bay of Quinte — Value of Land — York — Canada Company, . . 259-,273 CHAPTER II. Head of Lake Ontario — Toronto District — Guelph — Township of Waterloo — of (rait — of Paris — Prices of Farm produce, 274-,28!) CHAPTER III. Emigration to the States — Albany — Valley of the Hud- son — Value of various Farms — Produce and Prices — Genesee Country — Michigan, .... 290.^314 APPENDIX. No. I. Territory of Michigan, 317 II. Note regarding Pauperism in England; with some Suggestions upon Emigration, .... 342 III. Advice to Emigrants, 351 IV. Information to Emigi'ants, 359 V. City of the Falls, 360 VI. Mr Robertson's Notes, 364 VII. Agricultural Society of Quebec, . . . .371 ERRATUM. Page 2(i8, line -28, for any reai my PRACTICAL NOTES. PART I. CHAPTER I. Extract of Minutes of the Highland Society — Edinburgh to Manchester — Celebrated Railway to Liverpool — Short in- terim excursion to Chester and Menai Strait — Embark at Liverpool for New York — Packet encounters heavy gales — Luminousness of the Ocean. Having long entertained a desire to visit the United States and Canada, for the purpose of satisfying- my- self regarding the actual condition and prospects of Agricultural Settlers in these countries, I left Edin- burgh upon the 12th February 1831 for Manchester, with the view of embarking at Liverpool. Previous to leaving Scotland, I communicated my intention to the Directors of the Highland Society, who kindly honoured me with the following letter : " The Directors having been apprized by Mr Fer- gusson of Woodhill of his intention to visit Canada and the United States of America, it has appeared A 2 LETTER FROll DIRECTORS OF to tlieni, that tliis may ufFord a favourable opportu- nity of obtaining' such information reg'arding- those countries, as may prove beneficial to rural economy and the useful arts at home. The zealous and va- luable assistance which tlie Highland Society of Scot- land has received from Mr Fergusson, as a Member and Director, and his knowledge and experience ac- quired in the long and honourable discharge of every duty of a country gentleman, afford an assurance to the Directors, that he will be eminently attentive to all such circumstances connected with the state of industry and the useful arts in the rich and magni- ficent countries which he is to visit, as may tend to promote the improvement of those arts in his own. " The Directors will therefore receive with the highest satisfaction, such information as IMr Fergus- sou may from time to time connnunicate reg'arding- the arts and natural productions of the New World, as well as on the subject of eniig'ration, and the con- dition of the emigrants ; and should he meet with associations similar to this Society in the purposes of their institution, the Directors authorize him to open up Avith them such a friendly intercourse as may lead to mutual good offices, and an interchange of useful information. " The J^ircctors in taking leave for a time of a gen- tleman with whom they have been so long associated in all the useful labours of this Society, and whose personal character and private worth they have so much cause to appreciate, feel it a duty to record their warmest acknowledgments for the long, assi- THE HIGHLAND SOCIETY. 3 duous and valuable assistance which he has rendered to the Highland Society ; their anxious desire that he should soon again be enabled to resume the duties which he has so well fulfilled ; and their cordial wishes for his success in the objects which he now contemplates by visiting the United States of Ame- rica, and the Colonies of Great Britain. ' " The Chairman is requested to communicate to Mr Fergussou an extract of these minutes. " Pat. Murray, Chairman^ "Highland Society Hall, Edinburgh,) U February ViS-ii:' J Immediately upon m.y return, I sent them a short statistical account of my tour ; and as it contains mat- ter not so minutely detailed in my Notes, I have given it entire as the Second Part of this work. A heavy fall of snow which had lately blocked up the roads was fast dissolving, and the Tweed, with its tributary streams, was rolling along in mighty flood. The country wore a wintry aspect, but the numerous plantations on every hand enlivened the scene. I was amused by the remark mentioned by a fellow-passenger, as having been made by a gentle- man lately returned from India, who, upon being asked if the great Improvements during liis absence did not fill him with delight, replied that he could by no means join in their admiration, as the whole country was, in his opinion, " running to jungle^' A 2 4 LIVERPOOL AND MANCHKSTBR RAILWAY. Having formoily visited the maiiufiutories of Maii- chester, I proceeded without delay to Liverpool, by the far-famed railway. We started with eight car- riages attached to the engine with such imperceptible motion, that it was only, when I found myself un- able to read a milestone, or to distinguish the fea- tures of those who darted past in the opposite direc- tion, that I was led to consult my wati^li for the rate of travelling, when I found, to my surprise, that the next five miles were done in fifteen minutes; nor was it possible, from the precautions so judiciously taken, to feel either anxiety or dread. The project of tliis railway was first discussed in 1822 ; subsequently, Mr Sanders of Liverpool adopt- ed the scheme, and, by being guarantee for the ex- penses of the first survey, he may be considered as the father of the imdertaking. It met with great opposition in Parliament, and, before the act could be obtained to proceed with the work, the cost en- tailed on the parties engaged in the contest was at least from L. 60,000 to L. 70,000. On the 19th of Jime 1826, Mr G. Stephenson Avas appointed principal engineer to the company, by the directoi's, and, in the same month, the actual opera- tion was begun on Chat Moss, near Manchester. The first shaft of the Liverpool tunnel was opened in September of the same year. During the Avhole of the year IS'27, the formation of the tunnel was carried forward, night and day, with great spirit. It was constructed in seven or eight separate lengths, communicating with the surface by as many upright LIVERPOOL AND MANCHESTER RAILAVAY. 5 shafts ; and tlie junction of the various cuttings was completed in June 1828, with the greatest accuracy, and in a manner highly creditable to the talents of the engineer. On the 1st January 1830, the Rocket, locomotive engine, constructed by Mr Stephenson, with a carriage and passengers, passed over Chat Moss for the first time. The total expense of the railway, including its machinery and carriages, is estimated at L. 820,000; and allowing the length of the whole line to be thirty- two miles, the expense, per mile, will be L. 25,625, or at the rate of nearly 14 guineas per lineal yard. Large as the expenditure has been, it is highly satisfactory to know that the undertaking will be a source of handsome remuneration to the company. I understand that, during the twelve months which have elapsed since the opening of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway, about 460,000 persons have passed between the two towns. The sum received for the conveyance of passengers and goods during the same period has been upwards of L. 1 90,000. From the powers of the locomotive engines on the railroad, goods and passengers are conveyed from Liverpool to Manchester, a distance of thirty-two miles, in about two hours. As a contrast to this rapid transmission between the towns, the following statement may not be out of place. A stage-coach was first established between Liverpool and Man- chester in 1767. The roads were then so bad that the coach was drawn by six, and occasionally by eight, horses, and it required the whole of the day to 6 LIVERPOOL AND MANCHESTER RAILWAY. perform the journey. An old gentlenvin, now resi- dent in Liverpool, relates that, between fifty and sixty years ago, he occasionally visited Manchester, when the coach started early in the morning from Liverpool ; the passengers breakfasted at Prescot, dined at Wiirrington, and arrived sometimes in time for supper at Manchester. On one occasion, at War- rington, after dinner, the coachman intimated his anxiety to proceed ; when he was requested by the company to take another pint and wait a little longer, as they had not finished their wine, asking him at the same time if he was in a hurry ; " Why," re- plied John, " I'm not partic'lar as to an hour or so" Among other regulations, a watchman perambu- lates every half-mile to detect any stone or other dangerous impediment upon the rail. As he sees the carriages approaching, if all be right, he stops and extends his arm in sufficient time to enable the engineer to stop the train, should that signal of safety not be displayed. Some accidents undoubtedly hap- pen, but they may be traced, in almost every in- stance, to a want of ordinary prudence and attention in the unhappy sufferers. As we bowled along, a little circumstance, more ludicrous than dangerous, occasioned a small loss of time. Tin; hook by which No. 2. was attached to No. 1. suddenly gave way, and the engine, with one carriage only, shot off like lightning, leaving the others to follow as they best could. The alarm was, however, quickly given, the engine reversed its movement, while our impetus carried us yet steadily forward, and the whole affair LIVERPOOL. 7 was speedily adjusted. The tunnelling and cutting upon some portions of the line are stupendous, and the whole stands a magnificent sample of enterprise and scientific skill. The consternation occasioned among the coach- pi'oprietors on the line, by this wholesale mode of travelling, was of course great, and heavy individual losses necessarily incurred, with much jealousy and ill-will towards the intruder. A knight of the whip, who had been forced to drop his reins, mustered up resolution one morning to take a trip by the railway, and, in spite of a very reasonable stock of indigna- tion, soon felt his asperity giving way under the ex- citement of such a slapping pace, and, ere he had pro- ceeded far,', exclaimed in ecstasy to the engineer, " Come now, my lad, that's it, do boil us up a bit of a gallop." Liverpool, the mighty Tyre of modern times, is a scene of wealth and bustle which must strike the most indifferent observer. Commerce reigns here with unbounded sway ; and it is pleasing to observe how the extinction of one appalling branch, so long engrossing the enterprise and capital of Liverpool, has been succeeded by an overwhelming tide of pros- perity and success. The kind friends to whom I was consigned in Liverpool made me happy in every respect, save the uneasiness I felt at trespassing upon their valuable time ; and, as certain arrangements required the post- ponement of our departure until the 24th, I resolved upon visiting the ancient city of Chester. I had a 8 CITV OF CHESTKR. very pleasant ride, for half-a-croitm, crossing the Mersey by an oblique ferry of seven miles, in a steamer. Chester, one of the most ancient cities in England, is finely situate upon the Dee, which di- vides it from Wales. It is walled round, and the ramparts afford an agreeable promenade, with fine views of the Welsh mountains and rich plains of Cheshire. The ijiterior of the town is, however, more remarkable, the streets having been originally hollowed out in such a way as left the citizens an opportunity of assailing unwelcome visitors from covered galleries above, and which run like terraces through most parts of the town. These cloisters, known by the name of rows, form an agreeable lounge, and, being extremely well suited for assigna- tions, suggested an explanation (perhaps rather fan- ciful) of the common phrase, " communicating some- thing under the rows," which, as applied to a flower, seems sufficiently absurd. There is a very fine jail, a court-house, &c. ; and a magnificent stone bridge is now erected upon the Dee, the centre arch of which is probably the largest in the world, being a span of 200 feet. At a remote period, Chester was a sea-port, but the waves have long ceased to break against its walls, and a noble domain, of 7000 or 8000 acres, now belongs to the Dee Company, by charter from Lord Crew, whose family originally ac- quired this valuable manor from the ocean. I lodged in Chester at the Albion, an hotel in every way com- fortable, and particularly commending itself to me, from an instance of liberality in Mr Willoughby the EXCURSION TO MENAI BRIDGE. 9 landlord, rarely to be met with, aud not to be ex- pected. A gentleman in the hotel, with whom I passed the evening-, represented to me the wonders of the Menai Bridge, in such glowing terms, that a strong desire was excited to pay it a visit. A glance at my bill, however, in the morning quickly satisfied me that ray purse, prepared only for a day in Chester, was quite unequal to an excursion into Wales. I thought it worth a chance, however, to broach the matter to mine host, who, in the handsomest terms, offered me at once any accommodation, and made me perfectly at ease, a piece of civility and confidence enhanced by the circumstance of having entered his hotel without an article of luggage beyond my great- coat. We crossed the Dee, and proceeded for Ban- gor, a distance of sixty-four miles. The country is beautiful, especially in the vale of Clwyd and Con- way. The cultivation I should consider slovenly. Two-horse ploughs are, however, pretty general, but scarce a field of turnips is to be seen. The Tees- water cattle seem to be coming into favour, and Colonel Hughes, (since raised to the peerage), who owns a beautiful place and princely estate at St George, sets a good example, in cultivating green crops, adopting improved implements, &c. A large portion of this estate is rich alluvial deposit, yielding the heaviest wheat of the district ; yet, such is the poor state of culture, that I was informed the pro- duce never exceeded two or three quarters per acre. The rent is twenty-five shillings, and the tithe and poor-rate probably from three shillings to five shil- 10 EXCURSION TO MENAI BRIJ)GE. lings more. The river at Conway is crossed by JV suspension-ljridge, and has been made to liarmonize in excellent taste, with the ancient towers and ram- parts of the castle. Soon after leav-ing Conway, we come to the frown- ing promontory of Penmanmawr, along the side of which the road has been hewn from the solid rock, and forms certainly an ajtpalling- pass — the rough mountain face on one hand, and the Atlantic raging beneath the precipice on the other. The wind, charged with drifted sand, blows frequently M-ith tremendous violence at this point ; and it has hap- pened more than once that the mail-coach has been fairly obliged to turn back to Conway. The coun* try from this to Bangor is still indifferently farmed, and large flocks of small half-starved sheep, resem- bling our old Scotch tawny-faced breed, were pick- ing a scanty living over the naked fallows ; the soil good loam, y<'t not an acre of turnips to be seen. Penrylin Castle, belonging to Mr Pennant, the owner of extensive slate -quarries and a fine estate, is close to Bangor. Tlu> castle is a heavy-looking pile, in a park surrounded by a fine wall, seven miles in extent, and approached by a gateway, which alone is said to have cost L. 10,000, The constant inter- course on this road with Ireland, and the dangerous uncertainty of the f(M-ry at Bangor across the Menai Strait, suggested the expediency of erecting a sus- pension-bridge, which the genius and science of Tel- ford soon carried into effect. This elegant and use- ful structure imites the mainland to the Isle of An- MENAI BRIDGE. 11 glesea, on the great line of Parliamentary roacl to Holyhead. It is above 1717 feet in length, and must strike all who visit it as a work of no ordinary achievement. In standing- upon the bridge, sus- pended by massive chains, and beholding a stately vessel passing, at the depth of 100 feet below, it is impossible not to feel impressed with the magnitude and boldness of the attempt. Had it been effected at the expense of private individuals, we should have regretted the failure of pecuniary returns. The es- tablishment of steam-vessels from Liverpool to Dub- lin has seriously diminished the pontage of Menai, by diverting the stream of travellers into another channel ; but it was executed as a national concern, and the public exchequer bears the loss. The bridge cost L. 200,000, and the toll is at present less than L. 1000 per annum. I regretted that it was not in my power to see more of Wales at this time. The country is beau- tiful ; the peasantry, so far as I saw, civil and indus- trious. Many ancient customs are kept up by the Cambrians, none perhaps more simply interesting than the attention paid by relatives to the graves of departed friends, of which some are carefully secur- ed with matting of straw, and all are decorated with evergreens and flowers. It is now, however, time to embark for the ulti- mate object of my journey. Upon returning to Li- verpool, I found, that, by great exertions, the packet- ship York, in which we were to sail, had discharged her American cargo, and replaced it in the short 12 EMBARKATION AT I.rVKUPOOL. space of six days, and that Captain Bnrsloy was pre- pared to sail upon tlu' 24tli. We embarked accord- ingly tliat morning, and joined the ship by a steamer, which continued to tow us for some time against a head wind. The packet-ships between New York and Liverpool are of the very first class, equally re- markable for comfort and safety. Accidents are ex- tremely rare ; and the unfortunate loss of the Al- bion upon the Irish coast, some years ago, is gene- rally ascribed to a hazard which no captain would now encounter. The regular packets had been at tliat period recently established, and tradiiig vessels used every manoBuvre to discredit them by superior sailing. A gale had driven the Albion close upon the Irish coast, but an offing might have been gain- ed, had the attempt been made in time. Unfortu- nately the captain delayed till it was too late, trust- ing to make Liverpool next morning, and, when he did endeavour to escape, by carrying a press of sail, his masts went by the board, and the ship drifted on the rocks of Kinsale, where almost every individual perished. The routine of a sea-life is subject to little varia- tion. Our cabin-j)arty consisted only of five, this being a season of the year when a stormy passage is commonly anti(i]»ated. The weather was cold, and the wind most unpropitious. On the third day we were ftivoured with an unexpected addition, by the discovery of a passenger amongst the hay provided for our live-stock. lie had managed to secrete him- self while the ship was in dock, and, having lived GALES AT SEA. 13 very much like bruin by sucking his paws, was suffi- ciently wo-begone when brought to light, and by no means cordially welcomed by the captain, who is bound, before getting rid of such volunteers, to grant security at New York that they shall not become burdensome as paupers. For twenty long days we contended with heavy gales a-head, and the eccentric movements, occasion- ed by the rolling of the ship, were sufficiently divert- ing to those who could preserve an equilibrium, or maintain their post at table. After a time, however, I was able to admire the mechanism and manage- ment of the ship, stemming the mighty waters of the Atlantic, and began to enjoy the novelty of my si- tuation. It is difficult to describe the thrill which the landsman feels, as he contemplates a billow, many feet higher than the deck, rushing onward in its irresistible course, and threatening to overwhelm the ship, while yet he finds, in the anxious moment of collision, that, far from being engulfed, he is borne aloft in delightful buoyancy, plunges into the deep valley beyond, and mounts again the rolling waves in endless succession. Still it is to him a sensation not unaccompanied with anxious thoughts, and he feels himself compelled to reflect how little there is between him and a watery grave. The prismatic co- lours so frequently observed by day, and the bril- liant pliosphorescence which flashes from the spray by night, are subjects of interest and wonder to the voyager. The latter eff'ect produced by the motion of the vessel, or by the agitation of a storm, is sin- 14 LUiMINOUSNESS OP THE OCEAN. gularly beautiful. It is generally ascribed by natu- ralists to phosjdioric aniinalcula. On the night of the 30th, a heavy gale blowing from the south-west, I was called on deck by Captiiin B., to witness this appearance, in a degree which, he said, was rare. The ship was rnniiing about nine knots an hour, and cut her way through liquid fire. The spray from her bow seemed one sheet of light, while the broken surface of the ocean, for miles around, glistened with like splendour. It was an impressive scene, the re- collection of which is not to be easily effaced. Our voyage continued tedious and uncomfortable with re- gard to weather, and little occurred to vary the scene. For days together the weather was such as to prevent the captain from taking an observation. One morning a vessel appeared on our weather-bow, which seemed to have suffered much from the storm, and we lay-to for some hours, until she came under our stern. She proved to be the British mail-packet Reindeer, bound for Halifax and Bermudas, out thirty-seven days, and had lost foremast and bow- sprit, in the heavy gales which we had lately en- countered. They were busied in rigging a jury- foremast, seemed to have a stout crew, and their captain declined any assistance. ( lo ) CHAPTER 11. Arrival off Sandy Hook— City of New York — Excellent ac- commodation of Bunker's Hotel — American Society— Thorburn's Seed-store. On the 5tli of April, our fortieth day at sea, we made the high land of Jersey and Staatens Island, and a joyful sight it was ; for, as was long' ago ob- served, a ship, in the most favourable view, is but a prison afloat, with the agreeable contingency of be- ing- drowned. The Americans keep a sharp look-out for news from Eiu-ope, and more than one newspaper has a fast-sailing cutter constantly cruising off Sandy- Hook, to intercept the packets or other vessels. We were boarded, about sixteen miles off-land, by one of these quid mines, and, having given him our jour- nals, we had the satisfaction of finding that, tedious as our voyage had been, we had beat the New- York, a packet which had sailed four days before us, and also the Thomas Dickason, a crack ship, which left the Mersey along with ourselves. The scenery of the American coast is rather tame at this point ; but the Bay of New York, after pass- ing the Forts, is magnificent, and the approach to the city very fine. We got ashore about three o'clock, and were conveyed, in a particularly clean 16 ACCOMMODATION OF BUNKER's HOTEL. and neat hackney-coach, to the Mansion-House Ho- tel in Broadway, kept by Mr Bunker. I was struck with the superior character of tlie hackney liorses to those of our cities, and I may add also of those in cars and wag-gons. They were all in excellent plight, and the latter, if not equal in size to those in English drays, infinitely surpassed them in action. The hackney-coach fares in New York are high, and are moreover annoying to strangers, from the practice of paying for each passenger, when exceeding one, and also for luggage. New York is well provided with hotels of every degree. Our ac- commodation at Bunker's was excellent. The house is extensive, though not so much so as the City Ho- tel, where two hundred beds are made up ; and the style of living appears to me sufficiently convenient and agreeable. Besides occasional guests, you meet with a certain number of permanent boarders, some- times whole families remaining for weeks together, with whom strangers enjoy the utmost facility of forming an acquaintance ; and, as it frequently hap- pens that some of the inmates are members of Con- gress or of the State Legislatures, and that most of them are men of superior information, an opportu- nity is afforded of acquiring knowledge regarding the institutions and habits of the people, highly to be prized. Tlie Americans appeared to me perfectly accessi- ble, and quite ready to give counsel or assistance to all who were disposed frankly and cordially to ac- cost them. Before I was two days in the hotel, I ACCOMMODATION OF BUNKER's HOTEL. 17 could reckoa several very kind friends, acquired en- tirely in tlie ordinary intercourse of the day, with- out any formal introduction, and was not only fur- nished with routes for my future guidance, but re- ceived kind and pressing invitations to visit various individuals in the course of my tour. The public rooms in the hotels, consist of one or more furnished drawing-rooms, where you receive visitors, assemble before meals, or spend the even- ing with music, &c. Single gentlemen, unacquaint- ed or unconnected with any lady of the party, ap- peared to me hardly expected to join the drawing- room circle, although there is no exclusion, nor any difficulty, when one is so inclined, in finding admis- sion. The dining-room is, of course, large, commonly two apartments thrown into one, and capable of be- ing enlarged or contracted at pleasure. In Bunker's, I admired an ingenious communication with the kit- chen, by means of a stair concealed under a large sideboard, from one end of which the good-humour- ed shining phiz of a black waiter was ever and anon emerging with some savoury dish. The bar-room and open gallery or verandah are the only scenes of smoking to be met with in respectable hotels. A book is kept in the bar, where arrivals and depart- ures are regularly recorded, and which frequently enables friends to trace each other with much conve- nience. The hotels are well fitted up, the bed-rooms not very large, but clean and comfortable, and, in B 18 ACCOMMODATION OF BUNKER's HOTEL. Bunker's, we found excellent warm-batlis. Our board was 2 dollars, or 9s. per day, for which we had breakfast, dinner, tea, and supper, Avith a bed- room. Our fare was excellent. Fish and fowl, rump steaks, sausages, omelets, &c. &c. are kept in constant requisition, and ample justice is done to them, with a dispatch somewhat startling to a stranger. At this time shad reigned supreme at our breakfast, as striped bass did at our dinner- table, both uncommonly delicate varieties of fish. To those who have formed an estimate of Ameri- can hotels from certain modern tourists, I am aware that my report may wear the aspect of partiality, yet I feel a pleasure, while I consider it a duty, with per- fect indifference and candour, to state the impression made upon myself, and the results of my own expe- rience and observation. In treating of America, the man who would do lier justice must have in constant remembrance the extraordinary advances and improvements, which even a year or two in this country produce. In the hotel where I now lived, an English gentleman in- formed me, that only a few years ago, not more than two or three single bed-rooms could be found, whereas it is now entirely the reverse, and the change, in ordinary road taverns, is alike remarka- ble. We have been accustomed to hear a great deal of the saucy or sulky demeanour of the attendants. Not a solitary instance of the kind occurred in my ex- perience, and I found all my personal wants quite as regularly attended to as I could possibly desire, both ACC03IM0DATI0N OF BUNKER'S HOTEL. 19 in New York and elsewhere ; with this agreeable dis- tinction, that you are relieved of those vexatious ex- tortions which assail you, as " riders to the bill," in every British hotel. The attendants, except in the Slave states, are almost always free persons of colour, and 1 believe the repugnance felt to the designation of servant, arises from some latent ill-defined dread of being mistaken for slaves. The porter of the hotel receives a small remunera- tion, having not only to run errands, but to do some heavy work in removing the luggage, of which the superfluous portion, or what is not in immediate re- quisition, is carefully deposited in a room allotted to that purpose. That matters are conducted very differently fi*om what we are accustomed to meet with, in our own ad- mirable houses of entertainment, I readily admit; but I cannot, upon the whole, allow that the absence of snug parlours or mahogany boxes, is attended with those very fatal effects to comfort and good living, which some smart writers would have us to believe. One grievance perpetually served up is, the shock- ing inconvenience of travellers being obliged to conform to the regular hours of a public table, a truth which amounts precisely to nothing, these hours being invariably calculated to suit the motions of public conveyances, by which travelling is almost exclusively accomplished in America, and because there is no difficulty in procuring private rooms or extra meals, when circumstances really oblige you to call for them. b2 20 AMERICAN SOCIETY. Another very pretty topic of abuse is the whoh' sale ablution system carried on in the tavern bar-rooms, with tlie accompaniments of a comb and hair-brush, suspended pi'o bono publico. The climate, in sum- mer, renders wasliing- at every stage extremely comfortable, during the few minutes employed in changing horses, and a basin and towel are placed at liand for the purpose. It is only In venf humble quarters, indeed, that you cannot command these comforts in your own bed-room, Avhere you stop for the night; and, although certainly the above articles would not present themselves unless they were in use, I scarce recollect observing a single traveller without his pocket-comb. I shall make at present no further remarks upon American accommodations, intending to recur to them during the progress of my tour. New York has been so often and so well describ- ed, that it is unnecessary to speak in detail of its public buildings and institutions. It is a fine com- mercial city, with a population of nearly 200,000, carrying on an immense traffic with the whole world. The celebrated Broadway somewhat disappointed me. Its length is certainly very great, and hand- some public buildings, private mansions, hotels, and well furnished shops or stores, are curiously inttir- mixed; while its whole length and breadth are alive with carriages and waggons, equestrians and pedes- trians of every rank and of almost every hue. Still, it did not equal the expectations which I had been led to form. THORBURNS SEED-STORE. 21 I could say much, were it proper, of the hospita- lity of New York, and of the unostentatious kind- ness with which my letters of introduction were re- ceived. The style of living is elegant and comfort- able, and the domestic circles which I had the plea- sure of joining seemed truly unaflFected and happy. The quiet, modest, and amiable tone of female so- ciety particularly pleased me. I frequently visited the 5eec?-5fore of Mr Thorburn, a character of some celebrity, and of great originali- ty, being, as he informed me at our first interview, the " very identical Lawrie Tod,'' and that so far as the first volume of that entertaining work goes, Gait had exactly recorded his life and adventures. Be- sides other sources of enjoyment, Mr Thorburn is distinguished for a lively and unfailing reliance upon a special overruling Providence, not a blind fatalism, but a conviction that, in all the crosses of life, a blessing will be found by those who faithfully seek it. He detailed many singular illustrations of this doctrine in his own history, and altogether gratified me much by his acquaintance. His original profes- sion was that of a nail-maker at Dalkeith, and by that alone he looked for a livelihood in the New World. Soon after his arrival, however, this handi- craft was annihilated by the introduction of machine- ry, and poor Thorburn was driven to open a small grocery store for subsistence to Phemie and himself. It was his practice to visit the butcher-market at a late hour, that he might pick up a cheap morsel, and observing a man offering plants for sale in pots, and 22 tiiorburn's seed-stohe. seemingly like himself nither low in the world, Thor- bm'n accosted him. He proved to be a follow coun- tryman, an industrious, but rather unsuccessful, mar- ket gardener, of the name of Inglis, from Kirkcaldy ; and, i'rom a sort of commiseration, Thorburn bought a rose-geranium, intending it to ornament his shop. At this time he scarce knew a geranium from a cab- bage. Pleased with his purchase, wlien hegot home lie painted his pot a gay green, and placed it in his window. " And now," says he, when he told me his story, with his eyes twinkling, " mark the kind- ness of Providence. The day after my geranium appeared in its new pot, a lady happening to drive |)ast, remarked its beauty, and not only bought it at a handsome price, but gave me such ordei'S as ena- bled me to open a busy trade with poor Inglis. My shop soon became more celebrated for plants than for tea and tobacco; and many inquiries having been made for garden-seeds, I procured an assortment, and gradually extended my concern until I reached the possession of the handsome premises and flourish- ing trade which 1 now enjoy." Some of his details, regarding the devastation oc- casioned by the yellow fever, were extremely inte- resting, lie has a very beautiful seed-shop, aviary, and greenhouse, &c. in the centre of the city, for- merly a Quakers' meeting-house and school, where he seems to drive a thriving trade. The ladies of New York are fond of flowers, and use them much in dress. Camellias are in great request, and some- times sell so high as three dollars a-head, the ordi- thorbubn's seed-store. 23 nary price being one ; and large orders are given for every party. I learned also, from a Scotchman in Mr Thorburn's employment, whose family had suf- fered heavily from sickness last winter, that camel- lias and parties by no means engross the sole atten- tion of the ladies of New York. He assured me, that, within his own observation, it was quite won- derful what they conti'ived to do, in visiting, cloth- ing, and attending to, the poor. This man left Glas- gow in great destitution about a year ago. He is now in comfortable circumstances, and his family provided for; but the first fortnight which honest Saunders Lee spent in New York, a total stranger, without money or engagement, he described, with a shudder, like a fit of the ague, as ^^ perfectly aivfuW ( 24 ) CHAPTER III. Steam Voyage up the Hudson — The Dinner on Board — State Prison of Sing Sing — i\Iilitury College of West Point — City of Albany — Senate and House of Assembly — Superiority of the American Breed of Horses — Albany Museum — American Character for Inquisitivcness. At seven o'clock a. m., upon the 12tli of April, we embarked in the Nortli America, a splendid steam-boat, of which the Americans are justly proud, to proceed up the Hudson to Albany, a distance of 145 miles. The morning was rather cold, and a strong breeze blew down the river, wind, and tide, and stream being all against us, notwithstanding of which, the irresistible power by which we were im- pelled, landed us in Albany within fourteen hours. It is difficult for those who have never seen an Ame- rican steam-boat, to conceive its elegance and com- fort. They are handsomely fitted up, well furnished, and a capital table is kept, wliile the total absence of coal-smoke leaves every thing tidy and clean. The North America is a day-boat, that is, she performs her voyage between sunrise and sunset, a circum- stance of which travellers ought to be aware, as they deprive themselves of the enjoyment which the highly interesting scenery of the Hudson aflfords. STEAM VOYAGE UP THE HUDSON. 25 should tliey chance to go unawares by an evening boat. This fine vessel is propelled by two engines of ninety horse-power each ; the steersman, from an elevated platform in the fore-end, guides the vessel by ropes, which communicate with the rudder ; a safe and admirable contrivance, universally employed in America, enabling the person at the helm to com- mand an uninterrupted view of the ship's course, and to escape many dangers which might otherwise oc- cur. The North America has a magnificent public cabin, with suitable private accommodation for ladies. Her length is about 225 feet, and her breadth 60. There are a lower and upper deck for promenading, with an awning when the sun is powerful, and, in short, every luxury and comfort which the best ho- tel could afford, not forgetting the barber s sJwp, whei'e the master informed me he had frequently the honour of taking fifty gentlemen by the nose in one forenoon. This ancient craft, so greatly degenerated in our own country, seems to be here in its very ze- nith. Innumerable are the party-coloured poles in every town, indicating the barber's shop, and, the general practice being favourable to their calling, they are in great request. I observed, in New York, one of the sides of the shop fitted up with pigeon-holes, where stood the labelled soap-boxes of Mr A, Mr B, &c., indicating steady customers. The steam- boats and large hotels have generally a barber as part of the establishment, and I found them every where maintaining the old professional character of cleanly, civil, and obliging gossips. 26 STEABI VOYAGE UP THE HUDSON. Tlio fare to Albany is only 9s., with a very mo- derate charge for meals. Of course, it is a favourite mode of conveyance, and the company is not always remarkably select. The steward told me that he had 900 passengers to breakfast and dinner one day last summer, and that 500 or 600 are frequent. With such a multitude some confusion must unavoidably occur, however excellent the arrangements, and these appeared to me to be very complete. Upon this occasion I think we sat down about 200 at ta- ble ; many homely enough in appearance, but no- thing either rude or revolting came under my notice. I was seated at dinner between Judge S , a most intelligent man, and of much repute as a lawyer, and a plain Massachuretts farmer. We soon got enga- ged in agricidtural conversation, for the judge was well versed in these matters, and afforded much use- ful advice and information to the professional farmer and his friends. After dinner he entered into more general discussion, ruiniing over the different States, and pointing out to me what he considered their re- lative advantages and drawbacks. He thinks well of Ohio and some parts of Indiana for European set- tlers, and strongly advised me, if I thought of a pur- chase, to prefer a farm already, in some measure, improved, and to be upon my guard against design- ing persons, who are every wh(;re on the look-out for strangers. He assured me that a good under- standing with Great Britain was daily gaining ground in the States, and that the idea prevailed, that if the two nations stand by each other, they may STEAM VOYAGE UP THE HUDSON. 27 rule tlie world. This gentleman enjoys a good pri- vate fortune ; otherwise his case would be a hard one. A very extraordinary law, peculiar, I believe, to the State of New York, enacts that judges shall retire upon attaining the age of sixty, and thus not only may, but frequently must, return to the bar, not a dollar of pension being allowed them when thus compelled to resign. Mr S. was in this predicament, and the country sacrificed the talents of a very able man, just at a period of life when his legal experience as a judge became of peculiar value. It is a preposterous arrangement, and may even be imagined at variance with the purity and independence of the bench. I had a long chat with the Massacliusetts farmers, who had been at New York with a drove of fat oxen, weighing about 75 stones (14 lb. to the stone) each, and for which they had got about L.22 a-head. They were in very high spirits, as every thing was bearing a high price. Their sheep are Saxon and Merino, and they had refused 2s. 8|^d. or 73 cents per pound for their wool, while last year they considered themselves well paid with 2s. Id. or 50 cents. They raise fine crops of turnips, and rear many sheep. A ewe fetches this season 9s., while last year she brought only 4s. 6d. They pay a sheep-doctor 27s. each 100 sheep per annum for his attendance, and this man devotes himself to sheep alone, never in- terfering with any other stock. He came out to them from England. Our dinner table was supplied with a profusion of good things, well cooked, and neatly served up. 28 THE DINNER ON BOARD. The captain takes the head of the table, the ladies who have no gentlemen along with them being al- ways under his special charge ; and, however large the party, or however mixed the company, scrupu- lous deference is paid to the accommodation of the fair ; and, I am confident, the most unpolished farmer would suffer any inconvenience rather than interfere with a lady's comfort. The fare from New York to Albany, 145 miles, is, as before observed, two dollars, or 9s., and the charge for an excellent dinner 2s. 3d. or half a dol- lar, including brandy, whisky and Hollands, placed upon the table, at the discretion of the company, a latitude which, I may here observe, was never abused, upon this or any other occasion, throughout my tour. The scenery of the Hudson, between New York and Albany, is probably not to be surpassed in romantic beauty by ,'my river-scenery in the world. About forty miles above New York, the river emerges from the high lands, and, for 100 miles above that, the eye is gratified by a succession of lofty mountains, and bold rocky headlands, clothed in wood, — towns, villas, farms, &c. in perpetual succession. The river itself is a noble object, covered with innumerable sloops and steamers, sometimes making abrupt turns amongst the rocks, and again stretching out like a peaceful lake. The woods were yet bare of foliage, and the day so cold and bleak, as to freeze the spray upon the deck ; still, it was impossible for any ad- mirer of nature, to view the scenery of this day's voyage, without the deepest interest and delight. STATK PRISON OF SING SING. 29 It would be easy to enlarg-e upon many interesting- objects which present themselves between New York and Albany, but the ordinary guide-books have made these perfectly familiar. Sing Sing, a new state prison, is seen upon the east bank, a few miles above New York. Silence reigns supreme within its walls, and forms the great and eflFective engine of punishment. The prisoners labour in gangs, but not a whisper is allowed, and, at night, each returns to his solitary cell, where his only, but invaluable resource, awaits him, in the pages of Holy Writ. West Point, about fifty miles above New York, is finely situated upon a lofty eminence, and is the station of an extensive Military College, educating about 250 cadets. This place must ever be associated with painful and affecting recollections, when recog- nised as the spot where the gallant but misjudging Andre, was inveigled, by the traitor Arnold, into a guilty correspondence, forfeiting his life, and, in a certain degree, tarnishing his honour; while, at the same time, the noble heart of Washington was rent with the bitterest pangs, from the painful duty im- posed upon him. He saw and acknovv-ledged the gene- rous feelings which led poor Andre astray, and sigh- ed under the stern necessity which compelled him to deny a soldier's death to this unhappy youth, doomed, by the laws of war, to an ignominious gibbet. We reached Albany about nine, and were soon comfortably established in Cruttenden's hotel, ad- joining to the State House on Capitol Hill. 30 CITY OP ALBANY. Albany is an ancient city in American chronology. It is the c.ipital of the State of New York, and the seat of the State Government, though now g-reatly eclipsed by The City, as New York is emphatically termed. A great proportion of internal commerce centres in Albany. The Grand Erie, and the Cham- plain, or Northern Canal, both find their outlet here, and numerous very large steam-boats ply to New York. The population of Albany is about 1G,000. The tide runs nearly to Troy, about six miles above. In contemplating the commercial enterprize, the buzz of busy men, the large warehouses and stores, the variety of equipages, waggons, stage-coaches, &c. which are met on every ha?id, as a stranger proceeds through the city, it is impossible not to rcA'ert to the picture so graphically drawn by Jin amiable and venerable authoress, and to contrast its present con- dition with the early days of Albany, when " this city was a kind of semirural establishment, every house had its garden, well, and a little green behind ; before every door a tree was planted, rendered in- teresting by being coeval with some beloved mem- ber of the family ; many of tlieir trees were of pro- digious size, and extraordinary beauty, but without regularity ; every one planting the kind that best pleased him, or which he thought would afford the most agi'eeable shade to tlie open portico, at his door, which was surrounded by seats, and ascended by a few steps. It was in these, that each domestic group Avas seated in summer evenings to enjoy the balmy twilight, or the serenely clear moonliglit. Each CITY OF ALBANY. 31 family had a cow, fed in the common pasture, at the end of the town. In the evening the herd returned all tog-ether, of their own accord, with their tinkling bells hung at their necks, along the wide and grassy street, to their wonted sheltering trees, to be milked at their masters' doors. Nothing could be more pleasing to a simple and benevolent mind, than to see thus at one view, all the inhabitants of a town, which contained not one very rich, nor one very poor, very knowing or very ignorant, very rude or very polished individual; to see all these children of na- ture, enjoying, in easy indolence or social intercourse, ' The cool, the fragrant, and the dusky hour,' clothed in the plainest habits, and with minds as un- disguised and artless. These primitive beings were dispersed in porches, grouped according to similarity of years and inclinations. At one door, were young matrons ; at another the elders of the people ; at a third, the youths and maidens, gaily chatting or singing together, while the children played round the trees, or waited by the cows, for the chief ingre- dient of their frugal supper, which they generally ate, sitting on the steps in the open air*." It is a dream not unworthy of Rip Van Winkle himself. The mighty tide of time is ever rolling on, and such scenes as these must now be looked for in the newly reclaimed regions of the West, or the Canadian Forest, where many an embryo city, destined to rear its edifices, and to diffuse riches and civilization * Letters of an American Lady., (Mrs'Grant of Laggan). 32 CITY OF ALBANY. around, is at this hour comnit'nciiig' its career, with the savr-mill, the grist-mill, and the wooden wharf. The local situation of Albany is very fine, the town being placed upon the declivity of a hill, over- hanging the river, on its western bank ; and the panoramic view from the roof of the Capitol is beau- tiful and extensive, embracing the Catskill Moun- tains, nearly 4000 feet high, clothed with w'ood to the very summit, the noble Hudson, spreading out below, and a fine country on every side. I spent the day following my arrival, in a most agi'eeable renewal of friendly intercourse with an old companion, whose acquaintance I had made many years ago, w-hile he prosecuted his studies in Edin- burgh. His father, distinguished by the old Dutch title of Patroon of Albany, is still better known by his talents and virtues, which, during a long life, liave secured to him the esteem and regard of all his fellow citizens and friends. Mr R r possesses a princely domain around Albany, and I felt, in the sincere and cordial welcome of the son, that one of the purest and most heartfelt enjoyments of life, is to be found in the practical assurance of an old friendship having expe- rienced neither diminution nor coldness, from the caustic influence of distance and of time. My friend accompanied me to all that was to be seen in the city and around Albany. Our first visit was to the House of Assembly and Senate, both of which are in hand- some and convenient halls. I remained some time in the Senate, listening, with interest, to the first HOUSE OF ASSEMBLY. 83 discussion, of a public nature, which I had heard in America. The matter in hand was of mere local in- terest, being the constitution of a new bank, and the speakers appeared to treat the controverted points, in a candid business-like style. There was little room for eloquence in determining the amount of capital which a country bank should be allowed to possess, and there were no unnecessary or misplaced attempts at rhetorical display. The appearance of the members conveyed the impression of sensible country gentlemen, and I left tlie hall, well satisfied with the mode in which business seemed to be con- ducted. The constitution of the State of New York gives the right of suffrage to every male citizen of 21 years of age, who has resided six months in the State, and has paid a state or county tax within a year of the election, and also to men of colour (blacks and mu- lattoes) who have been citizens for three years, and possess a clear freehold of 250 dollars value, and have paid a tax thereon. The Governor and Lieu- tenant-governor are chosen by the people, and hold office for two years. The legislature consists of the Senate and House of Assembly. The former is composed of 32 members, freeholders, who are elect- ed for four years, one-fourth going out annually by rotation. The Assembly consists of 128 members elected annually, in their respective counties. The electors may return any freeholder eitlier to the Senate or Assembly, that may to them seem best; and each member of the Senate and House of As- c 84 SHORT-IIORNED CATTLE. sembly receives tliree tlollurs a day, during- session. The judiciary power is vested in a Court of Chancery, a Supreme Court, and District Court, with a Court of Error, composed of the Senate, the Chancellor and Judg-es of the Supreme Court ; the Judg-es, as I have already noticed, becoming disqualified at the age of sixty. After leaving the House of Assembly, we drove a few miles out of towni, and visited a very fine farm of 600 acres, which my friend occupies himself. It consists chiefly of rich arable land and meadows, on the banks of the river, and it pleased me to see that so correct and spirited an example in rural economy was there dis2)layed, by one whose influence ought to have so much weight in the district. The fences, houses, &c. were in good order, and I saw some very fine improved short-horned cattle, imported, at great expense, from England, and well calculated to bene- fit the country. Mr R r has shown a correct judgment in selecting native cows, to mix with the English blood, and has reared one bull, in particular, which I considered even superior in shape to the English sire : this animal was intended to be let out for the season. My friend, who was always remarkable for a smart team, enjoys every advantage in America for indul- ging his taste. Scarce had I set foot on shore in New York, when my eye was attracted to the figures of the horses in the hackney-coaches and drays, and every subsequent opportunity tended more and more to delight me with the breed of horses, both in the HORSES. 35 States and Canadas. IVIr R r had about twenty in his stables, part of them, of course, employed with the oxen in ftirm-work, but all of them, in point of shape, figure, and action, such as would command, in Britain, the highest price given for carriage-nags. A pair of very powerful handsome brown geldings, which we met accidentally in one of his waggons, cost him 200 dollars, or £ 45, and which horses, I am confident, in London, would have readily fetched 120 guineas. Some of his saddle-horses were un- commonly neat, and a chestnut colt, intended for his own charger, as general in the militia, was one of the finest and strongest thoroughbreds I ever saw. I may remark, too, that this stud was by no means to be regarded as the expensive hobby of a rich man, for in every part of the country the same superior animals were to be met with, and, from the team of almost any ordinary farmer, horses might be select- ed fit to grace the four-in-hand. The buildings on the farm are of wood, and very commodious; the stables, floored with plank, last for a great many years, and no doubt, in a great degree, train the horses to be steady in boats and on wooden bridges. The bailiff, a very sensible active-like man, has about £45 of money wages, a capital house, cow, and some other advantages. The crops are chiefly wheat, Indian corn, pumpkins grown among the com, oats, potatoes, and meadow-hay. After a very pleasant drive, about six miles up the river side, upon a real Macadamised road, which has been completed for that distance, we returned to c 2 36 IXQUrSITIVENESS. Albany ; and, to wliilo away an Itoiir before g'oing to my friend's to dinner, I paid a visit to tbe Albany Museum. This collection occupies a suite of rooms, in a very handsome building- of white marble, from a quarry in its neig-hbourhood, and contains a fair assortment of specimens in natural history. Here it was my lot, for the first time, to come under the full fire of Yankee curiosity, although I had been al- ready engaged in some smnll affairs of outposts. The only other visitor whom I saw in the museum was a tall thin lad, who, the moment I entered, pounced upon me, and, though with perfect civility and good- breeding according to his knowledge, opened a vol- ley, with " How d'ye do, Sir (very nasal) ; I guess you're from the old country." Quite aware that no impertinence was intended, I readily answered every question, which now poured in nearly as follows : " Mav I ask. Sir, from what part of the old coun- try ? May I ask what port you sailed from ? What ship did you sail in? What might you pay for your passage? Are you going to settle in the States ? What may your profession be ? What is your name ?" et multa alia, to the like effect. This inqusitive disposition has been a frequent theme of abuse against the Americans; and that it exists as a national trait, I think no man can honest- ly deny. 1 have met with it every where, and have endeavoured to analyze it fairly and with candour. The conclusion to which I very soon came, and to which I still adhere, acquits the Americans of the most remote intention to be at all uncivil to the INQUISITIVENESS. 37 Stranger. Tliey must be viewed nationally!, in some degree, as children; it must be remembered that they live much in retired rural circles ; that they are intelligent, well educated, and ever anxious to ac- quire information, all of which render them, when a foreigner falls into their hands, rather apt to over- step the European bounds of propriety, and many of their questions, which to us appear trifling, bear pro- bably upon points sufficiently important to them. Whatever umbrage too sensitive strangers may take at the freedom of Americans, it is but fair to notice the voluntary restraints which, in some respects, the latter impose upon themselves. An American, who will not feel that he is guilty of any impertinence in taking a peep at a book you may have in your hand, will at once recoil when you open a lettei% or are engaged in writing, although it is sufficiently evident that a mere selfish and vulgar curiosity would derive infinitely more gratification from a peep at the latter than at the former. I enjoyed, also, many a laugh, in the crowded steam-boats, at the overwhelming confusion which I occasioned, by suddenly turning round, when I knew that half-a-dozen poor fellows were straining their orbs to decypher the emblems of agriculture figuring ujjon the buttons of an old Farming Society coat, which I wore in travelling. They evidently felt, that without a little more inti- macy, the buttons were to be held sacred. In my adventure at the museum, dignily perhaps suggested the necessity of immediately turning upon my heel from such an impertinent Paid Pry ; but, what I 38 INQUISITIVENESS. tnist may be called good nature or good tact, urged the expediency of mooting the poor follow in his own spirit, and, by answering his queries, I scarce gratified him more than by extracting, in like man- ner from him, a stock of useful information regard- ing the agriculture of New England, where my friend, a shrewd, sensible sample of a Massachusetts farmer, owned a farm of 200 acres. He had come up with me the preceding day, from New York, in the North America, where he had formed one of the party who had been selling their fat stock at New York. I might have cut the matter short at once, and enjoyed the triumph of sending off Jonathan (to use a homely phrase) with a flea in his car ; but un- doubtedly I would myself have been the only suffer- er, and he would very soon have forgot the rebuff which the saucy fellow from the old country had giv- en him. Upon returning to the hotel, and mention- ing my chat with the farmer, my friend Mr C , who, from a rosidonce of forty years in Canada, un- derstands the American character better than most people, commended me for the line I had followed, and amused me with an anecdote on the subject of curiosity, which has, I believe, travelled across the Atlantic, regarding a gentleman of the name of West. This traveller, besides the common ordeal, had to encounter an extra batch of inquiries, from the spe- culation occasioned by a M'ooden log. Wearied one day with a most pertinacious host, who had extracted from him his name, his country, profession, route, &c., the traveller positively protested against another INQUISITIVENESS. 39 question being put. " Oh ! Sir," says mine host, " I would just like to ask one more." " Well, well," says Mr West, " one more I will answer, and re- member that clears all." " Certainly, sir, many thanks : Pray, how did you lose your leg T " Oh ! my leg ; why it was bit." " Bit ! is it possible f Well, what could have bit it ?" " Nay, friend, a bargain's a bargain, you know : one question and no more was our agreement ;" — thus leaving Boniface in greater perplexity than ever. ( 40 ) CHAPTER IV. Phaeton Excursion up the Banks of the Hudson to Eiiston — Join tlie Stage-coacli for ^\'hitehall — Bad roada — Vilhige of Sandy Hill—TowTi of Whitehall. Hav^ixg expressed my intention of visiting a Scotch friend, who has been some time settled upon the banks of the Hudson, about thirty miles above Albany, R r kindly insisted upon driving me there in his phaeton. At Albany I parted for a time with my good friends Mr and Mrs C , who were to proceed di- rectly home to Niagara, where it was arranged I should join them on my return from Quebec. Upon Thursday, 15th April, R r called for me at Cruttenden's Hotel, and, in company with his relation Mr S r, we rattled away with four spank- ing bays, for Easton, the morning pleasant for the season, and the road, so far as Macadam went, per- fectly unexceptionable. At Gibbonsville, about six miles from Albany, is established a public arsenal, and the location, to borrow an American phrase, seems well chosen for operations in the north or east, as the two canals open a ready communication with the frontiers. At Gibbonsville we were ferried over the Hudson to Troy in a most convenient boat, which received us without unyoking, and conveyed BANKS OF THE HUDSON. 41 US cleverly across. The boat was moved by two horses and a horizontal wheel, operating on paddles, in a simple and ingenious manner, the horses per- forming their work like turnspits, or a party taking exercise at a tread-mill. Troy is a considerable town, with a great appearance of lively trade, and some handsome public buildings, especially a new church of Gothic architecture. A few miles farther up, we re-crossed the Hudson by a covered bridge of wood, leading into tlie town of Waterford. This bridge is 1000 paces in length, with a double road- way, and cost nearly £ 16,000. There is a pontage exacted, and a penalty upon carriages exceeding a walk, when going along the bridge. Waterford is a sweet village, containing many gay white mar ions, with green Venetians, neat gardens, &c., and tiie scenery around is extremely pleasing. Tlie Hudson flows past the town, and the Mohawk falls in, a short way below, with many wooded and rocky islands in front. From Waterford our route lay nearly parallel to the river, through a well culti- vated country, with many handsome farms, the soil vai'ying in quality, and of inferior value as you re- cede from the river. A gentleman whom I had known in Scotland possesses a fine property on this road, and I resolved to surprise him with a visit. We were most heartily welcomed, and only made good our retreat by a promise, if possible, to return. He has found his purchase a very advantageous one ; the land seems of excellent quality, and he has evi- dently made great improvements in clearing, drain- 42 BANKS OF TIIH HUDSON. ing, fencing, [] WAGGON-TRAVELLING TO LA PRAiniE. ask tlie distance to Moiitreal, we received for an- swer, " Nine miles by water ^ sir, and the rest bi/mud;" — a description which our woful experience proved to be too correct. The fare was one dollar and a half, which, in Canada currency, is 7s. 6d. ; a very high charg-e, in this country, for eighteen miles. About a mile l)olow St John's, we turned off from the banks of the Sorel (whicli, by the way, bears al- so the names of Richelieu and St John's), and pro- ceeded across a flat and very uninteresting country, for La Prairie. We were now among the Hahitans of Lower Ca- nada. The population is almost entirely French : a careful, contented race, and who ought to be su- premely happy, if " ignorance is bliss." The reli- gion is Roman Catholic, and a creditable attention is paid, at least, to the places of worship, the churches being both numerous and well built. The farms are extremely inconvenient, presenting a narrow front, with a depth sometimes two or three miles in extent. The houses, stock, and system of farming, seem very inditferent. The swine, in particular, seemed to be living examples of every bad point which it was pos- sible to bring together. Bees, a symptom of indus- trious economy, were abundant, however, upon every farm. Occasionally we passed a house, compara- tively of a superior description, in front of wiiich a long spar, resembling a Maypole, indicated the occu- pier to hold a conmiissiou in the militia of the pro- vince. The soil is clay, and, in this part of the country, not apparently of the most fertile descrip- tion. EXECRABLE STATE OF THE ROADS. 59 Lime, I believe, is almost unknown, in its agricul- tural application. The system of cropping- pursued is sufficiently simple — corn-crop after corn-crop, un- til the land refuses any return, and then abandoning it to nature, to recover some portion of fertility, up- on which the farmer may again commence his scourg- ing rotation. We passed a party of road-makers at work, upon the early part of our stage ; they are in govern- ment-employ, and L. 3000 had been allotted for the eighteen miles, a sum which might probably have done some good upon the ninth part of the way. It may be in contemplation to proceed with a like sum in future years ; but, from what I saw, there is too much reason to fear, that, by such piece-meal work, the whole money will be lost, so far as the object was to obtain a good road. What is done this year will be nearly impassable before a second portion is completed, and little or no benefit will accrue, ex- cept to the contractor and his men. When we had been dragged through some half- dozen miles of mud, and matters seemed rather to get worse than better, the coachman entrusted with the mail proposed to our driver, that they should leave the improved road, and try the old line. To this it was objected, that the old line was now closed by authority, and that notice had been served upon them of its being shut, and that part of it was ac- tually an enclosed field. The proposal, however, after a little more scrambling, was acceded to. We turned down a sort of by-track, and I had very soon 60 EXECRABLE STATE OF THE ROADS. a specimen, wliicli, under evidence sliort of my own senses, would have been hard to credit, of what men and liorses, in this country, will get through. A rough and swampy rivulet lay between us and the gate of the field, which had been shut by authority, and where Ave now saw two stout fellows drawn up, armed with large stakes, to prevent our ingress. The impediment of the brook detained us not a mo- ment ; down we went, plunging to the axles through the water, and up the steep and rushy banks to the gate, where we were brought to a parley. Many high words passed with the farmer, and, as lie had both law and equity on his side, I was prepared for another rough job through the brook, when the guardian of the post-bags, in a most resolute tone, swore he would take the responsibility of shooting any man who stopped the mail, as the other road, from late rains, was absolutely impassable ; and, suiting his action to his word, began to produce his pistol. This formidable hint, to our great amuse- ment, took immediate effect; and the gate being throvra open, we entered in triumph. Our M^aggon still kept the van, and, crossing the ploughed field, we sooji observed a new wattled fence, four feet in height, which explained (as I imagined) the roguish permission given to pass forward, and Avliich we had attributed to the bloody threats of the coachman. Here, however, I again failed in my conjecture. We kept at a steady trot, and, as we approached the fence, and my curiosity was excited to the highest pitch, at a crack of the whip, and " Come, Harry, hoy,'^ WAGGON-TRAVELLING. 61 addressed to one of the leaders, the horses absolute- ly cleared the fence in true Meltonian styley and we at their tail, waggon and all, pitching like a boat in a heavy sea, and clinging to whatever we could lay hold of, to escape rolling over board. It was an ex- traordinary performance, and, although the first act threatened something like tragedy, the whole con- cluded in the most facetious manner. The coachmen were delighted with carrying their point, and the praises we lavished npon them and their horses ; while the farmer was brought into perfect good hu- mour by some kind words, and a little assistance to repair the fence. Nothing further occurred on the remainder of our stage, which, although only eighteen miles, had re- quired six long hours to get through. Wlien we reached La Prairie, anticipating an easy and speedy conclusion to our travels for the day, nothing remaining for us to accomplish, except the 7iine miles by water, we found our progress ar- rested from the non-arrival of the steam-boat, owing to a violent gale, which had sprung up, and which equally put a veto on our proposal to take a bateau. The St Lawrence is here of great width, but the banks are tame and flat. The city of Montreal, however, with the fine feature in the landscape, from which the island derives its name, both gratified, and, for the present, tantalized us. La Prairie being a place where no travellers stop, who can get across to Montreal, we had little reason to expect sumptuous accommodation. The family were, how- 62 STEAM-BOAT PROM LA PRAIRIE TO MONTREAL. ever, remarkably civil, and made us really very comfortable ; while the bill, which frequently bears no relation, in such cases, to the quality of the enter- tainment, was sufficiently moderate, the whole charge for Slipper and bed-room only amounting- to half-a- crown. Next morning I was awakened early by the low- ing of cattle under my window. They were for the supply of Montreal, and had come from Vermont. They were in very fair condition, seemingly about 33 stones Dutch, and were expected to fetch about L. 10 or L. ] 1 each. No duty is exacted upon them. The breed resembled coarse Teeswater, but ratlier longer in the horn. The storm of the preced- ing evening occasioned a large congregation of far- mers, cattle-dealers, and others, to assemble in the hostelry of La Prairie. They were at times some- what noisy, but in no degree inebriated or annoying. I was informed that a good many farmers from England, with considerable capital, had, within these few years, purchased land in this vicinity, but, in the opinion of my informant, (who, be it noted, however, was from he-north the Tweed), had not conducted their matters in the most economical or successful way. We found a crowded deck when we reached the steam-boat, a feat which we accomplished along a most ricketty wooden wharf, at no small hazard of n dip in the St Lawrence. We left Prairie at seven, the morning very cold ; and shoals of ice were to be seen stranded upon the opposite bank. Amongst other passengers, we had the stage proprietor, ou LA PRAIRIE. 63 the line from St John's, which he has managed for many years. I recounted to him our adventure the preceding day, commending the skill of his men, and the activity of his horses. No coachmen, he told me, can manage that stage, unless they have " grou-ti up upon it ;" he had tried them from the best lines of road in the States ; but they can't get on between St John's and Prairie, it requiring a rare union of caution and courage. His horses cost him from 100 to 120 dollars, or from £ 20 to £ 30 each. He en- ters them at five years old, and, by gentle treatment, they speedily become tractable and handy, ready even, as we had witnessed, " (o charge an ox-fence " when required. ( 64 ) CHAPTKR VI. City of Montreal — Ice in the River St La^Tence— Markets— r Mr S/s Notes re^ariling the Indians of the Western Coun- try — Excursion by Steam to Quebec — Short Account of the City — Plains of Abraham — Return to Montreal. About eight, we reached the wharf of Montreal, and were landed, with some inconvenience, upon shoals of ice, fully twelve feet in height. The city looks very handsome, as it is approached from Prairie ; and the glistening tin-roofs of houses, nun- neries, and churches, give it an appearance of splen- dour, rarely equalled, while the mountain, with its woods and rocks, its orchards and villas, forms a beautiful and romantic back-ground to the picture. Porters, from the different hotels, are always in waiting, when the steam-boat arrives, to one of whom we committed our luggage, and were conduct- ed to Goodenough's, a well-frequented and most respectable Jiouse. The arrangements, in our hotel, were much the same as in New York ; a public table, bar-room, sitting parlours, verandah, &c. The party whom I found were generally mercantile men, many of them from the States, and many of them from the Upper Province. CITY OF MONTREAL. 65 Tlie business of the season was just commencing, and vessels had arrived at Quebec from Britain, a circumstance, at so early a date (April 20.), unpre- cedented, in the recollection of the oldest merchants of Montreal. The steam-boat to Quebec had started, for the first time, a few days ago, and I had reason to be thankful that I had not been forward in time for that trip. The river was still full of ice, and the poor Waterloo getting beset, she stove and sunk. The situation of the passengers was painful and ha- zardous in the extreme. They were all in bed when the alarm was given, and had to rush up in- stantly, as the cabin filled in a few minutes. So sudden was the event, that the engineer could not even stop the engine, and she went down, with it going in full force. A passenger told me that when he got on deck, the captain and rest of the party had scrambled upon the ice, and the vessel not ap- pearing to settle down very rapidly, he ventured again below for his portmanteau, which he succeed- ed in securing ; but had scarce set foot upon the ice, when she disappeared. They had now a dismal and perilous adventure before them, to reach the shore, a circuitous distance of nearly two miles, by scram- bling from one floating mass of ice to another, in a bitterly cold night, and with no fmther clothing than they chanced to have on in bed. No lives were lost, but considerable property was sacrificed, and severe colds caught by many of the party. JNIontreal is the chief trading port of the St Law^ 66 CITY OF MONTREAL. rence,an(l although vessels have hitherto been obliged to clear at Quebec, it is understood that a Custom- House will, ere long, be granted to the nierchants of Montreal. No situation, 300 miles from the sea, can be better adapted for commerce : it must always be the outlet for the largest portion (tf Upper Canada produce, and the most suitable depot for supplying the varied and increasing wants of that fine province. The streets are sufficiently regular and airy, and many of the public buildings are handsome, particu- larly the Court-IJouso and Jail, and the Roman Ca- tholic Cathedral, lately erected at an expense of L. 100,000. The material employed is a fine dark grey limestone, susceptible of a good polish, and the brilliancy of the tin roofs has long been a chanicte- ristic feature of Montreal. Tiie shops and houses are generally provided with iron shutters, as a secu- rity, I believe, against fire. It appeared rather ex- traordinary that so little had been done in provid- ing, accommodation for the vessels. I found, however, that this was in course of being supplied, and the facilities of the noble river, didy appreciated, by providing suitable quays. Where I am a stranger, I always make a point of visiting the markets. Those of Montreal seem to be well supplied. The beef was capital, voal and pork excellent, mutton at this season, scarce and poor. The price ran from 3d. to 6d. currency per lb. The butchers were remarkably civil ; the firmest and the best pork, they told me, was fed in the States, and CITY OF MONTREAL. 67 fattened principally upon maize. In sauntering about, I stumbled upon a large hall, near the river, appropriated to the fish-market. The supply seem- ed most abundant, consisting chiefly of bass, pike, pickerel, eels, &c. : Billingsgate (I may add) seem- ed to be here greatly shorn of its rhetorical flowers. There is of course, a very mixed population. Na- tive Canadians in their grey surtouts, Indians wrapt up in their blankets, English, Irish, and Scotch, are seen bustling along, with priests, and bands of pretty little female choristers, arrayed in white, flitting from church to convent, and, for the^r^^ time since I had landed in the New World, not a few beggars soliciting alms. Tlie poor are liberally cared for at the religious houses, and it was impossible to avoid connecting this appearance of regular mendicity with those lazy habits which are sure to be engendered by gratuitous supplies. The barracks and military parade-ground, seem commodious, but are not conti- g'uous, and the romantic river of St Helen's, opposite the lower end of the town, forms an agreeable sta- tion for the artillery department. I experienced much kindness and hospitality in Montreal. Mr G., amidst all the mercantile hurry of the season, de- voted some hours to a very agreeable ride around the neighbourhood, mounting me upon one of the most active, pleasant horses I ever rode : He was bred in Upper Canada, and would have carried twelve or thirteen stone with any hound. The merchants of Montreal, amidst the frosts of Canada, still retain a love for the chace. A small pack of e2 68 CITY OF MONTREAL. fox-hounds is kept up by subscription, and sometimes affords them excellent sport. A friend of mine startled me a little, by stating, that he occasionally took the same horse ninety miles to cover, and after a day's hunting brought him home a like distance. " Unless you hunt by steam," I exclaimed, " it is impossible." " Why," says he, '* that's the whole secret ; I go with my horse on board the steamer at Quebec, and reach Trois Rivieres in good time to breakfast, hunt with my father-in-law, who keeps a pack, and return to Quebec by the afternoon boat." The views from the mountain are extensive and beautiful, and several pleasant villas adorn its sides. We passed through a large farm, belonging to, and occupied by, the priests, who possess a large seig- nory. The soil seems of good qnality, but the agri- culture is slovenly. Orchards are every where to be seen ; and a country rich and fertile on every hand. The population of Montreal and the suburbs, exceeds, it is believed, 20,000 souls. I dined with Mr G. after our ride, with a very pleasant party of mercantile gentlemen. Our Ministers, I found, were in no great favour, from the recent attempt to alt^r the timber-duties, although, from the best authority I could meet with, I must infer that the timber trade is not a prosperous one. The statements made in Parliament regarding the amount of capital vested in that branch, were sufficiently absurd ; yet there can be no doubt that it is very considerable, and that any abrupt alteration to be followed by a CITY OF MONTREAL. 69 Stagnation in the export of timber, would create the most serious distress both to the merchants and co- lonists. Much was said of the rapid advances which the Upper Province is making, and of the rising va- lue of property there. I was told of a case which occurred about thirty years ago, where a lieutenant in the array, being L. 50 in arrear to a Montreal merchant, insisted, along with his promissory note, on handing over a lot of land assigned to him some- where in the then Western Wilderness, a security which the poor merchant regarded as much upon a par with the subaltern's note, who was just about to leave Canada with his regiment. The allotment consisted of 1250 acres, upon the Lake Ontario, of which seven hundred were sold last year for Seven hundred pounds, and ^t-e hundred and fifty acres of the best quality reserved. Such are the changes which time effects, without the aid of any other agent, and such cases, I was assured, are by no means rare. It having been ascertained that the river was now tolerably clear of ice, the steam-boat was fixed to stai-t for Quebec upon the 23d of April. I was here to part with Mr S., the American gentleman Avith Avhom I had travelled from the banks of tlie Hudson, and I did so with sincere reluctance. His mild and amiable manners, with the rich store of information he possessed, regarding the Western Country, had been a source of daily enjoyment and information to me, and I felt strongly the regret, to which travel- 70 NOTES REGARDING THE INDIANS lers luust so often submit, of sliaking a frioiullj' hand with little prospect of ever meetings ag; in. Mr S. is one of the two resident agents for the great fur company at Michillimackinac, and had spent most part of last winter in Washington, where he had been no idle observer of public affairs. He seems of opinion, that too many lawyers have got into Congress, and that much valuable public time is consumed in making speeches, oftener perhaps in- tended to gratify their constituents, than to serve the public interest. Mr S. considers General J.vck- son likely to be re-elected, but that a law will soon follow, to incapacitate the same individual from twice filling the President's chair, while it will probably extend the period of holding oflBce, from four to six or seven years, which last would seem to be founded on sound policy, as no man can carry into effect a political system in the present short period oifour years. Mr S. has necessarily enjoyed many opportunities of studying the Indian character, and many of his anecdotes were extremely interesting. They are, upon the whole, a harmless race, unless when roused by passion or by ardent spirits, and they display noble instances of bravery and self-denial. It is easy to secure their confidence and friendship, and settlers seldom suffer from them any annoyance. There is an unhappy rivalry between the States and Great Britain to secure their friendship, and certain tribes are now looked upon as attached to each na- tion. A large distribution of presents annually take OP THE WESTERN COUNTRY. 71 place. Those of the States consist principally of pro- visions and absolute necessaries, while Bi'itain gives guns, powder, flint, knives, &c., articles which, al- though not of equal benefit, are greatly more prized, aii they can readily be bartered to the traders for whisky and rum. Most amusing scenes of cunning and deception take place on these occasions, the In- dian allies of the two nations manoeuvring with infinite adroitness, to participate in the bounty of each. Mr S. gave me an account of an interesting canoe- voyage through the Indian country by Fox River, ft'om Michigan to St Louis on the Mississippi, a dis- tance of about 1000 miles : it occupied him about twenty days, and during that period he saw much of the Indians. One chief, who visited his tent in hopes of obtaining salt and whisky, displayed infinite ad- dress in his endeavours to ascertain whether Mr S. belonged to the States or to Canada, that he might square his demeanour accordingly. The scenery was frequently magnificent ; and game of all kinds, bear, deer, geese, ducks, &c., was in profuse abundance ; the birds were actually so fat with feeding upon the wild rice, it being then the month of September, when it becomes ripe, that they frequently burst on falling to the surface. The rapidity with which the great rivers are de- scended, produces a change of climate approaching to enchantment. A gentleman, who had been frozen up in the western country when engaged in the fur trade, weary of inaction, caused his canoe to be cut 72 EXCURSION TO QUEBEC. out of the ice, ami getting into the Mississipjji, within eight days from leaving his winter quarters, was pull- ing ripe cherries. I left Montreal upon Saturday morning, the 23d of April, in the steam-boat John Molson, named af- ter its respectable owner, who was himself on board. The ice upon the quay had been converted into mud, and I was thankful to embrace the vociferous offer of a habitan to convey me in his little cart to the vessel, a distance of about a dozen yards, through which I must otherwise have waded knee-deep. We left Montreal at nine ; the day was fine for the sea- son, and the voyage proceeded prosperously and agreeably. The scenery of the river is, upon the whole, rather tame, and, except in some places, too expanded to be picturesque, until we approach Que- bec, where the boldness of the banks counteracts in the landscape the effect of the width of the river. Neat churches and neat spires are frequent on both banks. Sorel is the first stopping-place, about forty- five miles below Montreal. The river Sorel or Richelieu here falls into the St Lawrence. There is a small town, fort, and government house, but no- thing worthy of particular remark. Our cabin par- ty was a very pleasant one, and, as we discovered most opportunely after dinner, that it was St George's day, wo behoved to evince our loyalty by some extra drafts upon the steward. In the even- ing we stopped to take in wood at Trois Rivieres, a small town, about half-way, being ninety-six miles from Montreal and eighty-four from Quebec. The EXCURSION TO QUEBEC. 73 John Molson was a delightful boat, almost entirely free from that noise and tremour which are so com- monly felt on board of steamers. The motion migh+ in fact be compared to that of the Manchester rail- way. Our rate was twelve miles an hour, with two barges in tow, having 13,000 bushels of wheat as their cargo. I was much pleased upon all occasions with the regular and expeditious manner in which the necessary supplies of wood were conveyed on board and piled in the places allotted to them. The consumption is of course considerable, and in some places the article has already become comparatively scarce. The pine is used between Montreal and Quebec, and an ordinary steam-boat consumes fifty or sixty cords, or about 7000 cubic feet each trip. Wood is furnished upon the St Lawrence for one dollar, or five shillings per cord, which is about one halfpenny per foot, while upon the Hudson it now costs three times as much. Upon the lakes where hickory, beech, maple, and other hard woods are in use, one cord is found to equal three of the pine. The evening was delightful, and the moon rose in great beauty, shedding a soft and silvery light upon the river, and, as we had some very tolerable musi- cians on board, the time passed swiftly, and it was late before I prevailed upon myself to turn into my berth. The sleeping accommodations were well ar- ranged in the main cabin ; they were clean and com- fortable, and a curtain with a sliding-rod, very in- geniously contrived, formed a snug little apartment for each two beds. On the following morning, when 74 CITY OF QUEBEC. I began to look out, the scene in the cabin was rathef amusing. Amei'icans and Canadians are early risers, and by seven o'clock a general shaving and shifting was going forward in great force. By-and-by we were promenading on deck, and the cabin windows being thrown open, matters wei'e speedily set to rights, and the stewards busily engaged in very pro- mising preparations for breakfast. We had by this time approached the Rapids of Richelieu, which are reckoned a somewhat dangerous part of the river, and a thick fog coming on, we dropped anchor. As the day advanced the sun broke forth, and we re- sumed our progress, which, in a few hours, brought us in view of the bold promontory, upon which is placed the Gibraltar of the North. Quebec is certainly a very striking object. " Quel hcc" exclaimed the French mariner, on first behold- ing it, and hence, with a little corruption, we derive its modern name. The scenery down the river, the eye resting upon the Isle of Orleans, and the land- scape enlivened as we now beheld it, with numerous large vessels under crowded canvass, formed alto- gether a splendid picture. Shall I confe>s that in passing " Wolfe's Cove," the achievement of oui- hero lost somewhat of the romantic hue with which early fancy had been wont to paint it? The ascent did not exactly appear so formidable as I had expected. When I visited the spot, however, and examined it more closely, I was better enabled to appreciate the difficulties to be surmounted in mastering such a ravine with troops and cannon during the night. I CITY OF QUEBEC. 75 feel persuaded that my first impression and slight disappointment may be traced to the wide expanse of the river, and the magnificent scale of the scenery around. Upon reaching the quay we found still many for- midable relics of winter. The ice upon which we stepped ashore was fully ten feet thick, and huge masses of it lay scattered along the beach. What- ever inducements Quebec may hold out to the stran- ger, comfortable hotels are assuredly not of the num- ber. Mr J., of the house of Gates and Company at Montreal, upon whom I had a credit, was a fellow- passenger, as also Mr H. of the Upper Province, with both of whom having formed an intimacy, I accompanied them to a boarding-house in the upper town. Our accommodations fell considerably short of what might have been reasonably expected, but our host and his lady were civil and attentive. The hotels of Montreal greatly surpass in comfort those of Quebec, from the very sufficient reason of having a great deal more to do. The large annual assem- blage of company at Saratago and Balston Springs, near Albany, has established a sort of fashionable tour by Lake Champlain to Montreal, and thence to Niagara, returning to Albany by the grand Erie canal. Along the whole of this route every exertion has been made for the accommodation of the public, and many of the hotels are extensive and particularly well kept. Quebec is divided into two towns, called, from re- lative position, the Upper and Lower. The latter 70 CITY OF QUEBEC. occupies a very limited stripe along' the river, at the foot of the lofty limestone cliff, on Avhich is placed the upper town, croMMied by Fort Diamond, so named from crystals interspersed in the rock, and rising about 350 feet above the level of the river. The poptilation is about 20,000. In the lower town are the custom-house, numerous large stores, &c., M'ith all the filth and confudon of a sea-port town, con- fined to a narrow space. The ascent to the upper portion is uncommonly steep, and it is at once singu- lar and somewhat startling, in the busy hours, to encounter a hahitan with his bonnet rouge erect in his cart, and rattling his little horse at a full trot down this rapid descent, without a thought of hazard to himself or to the unwary passenger. IVIany a poor cur, too, may be seen toiling in harness, and dragging a vehicle heavily enough laden up this weary hill. After passing a fortified gate, streets diverge in various directions, by one of which we entered a large and spacious square, of which one side is chiefly occupied by the chateau in which the governor re- sides. The streets in this part of the town are suffi- ciently Avide, and the houses large and respectable ; still the stranger is impressed with a sombre feeling, but very partially relieved by the military costume and the imposing air of a garrison. The society of Quebec is highly respectable : within its circle I found an old and valued friend, whose family made my short stay in all respects pleasant. The state of the roads and ice upon the river St Charles rendering it inconvenient to visit the Fall of PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 77 Montmorenci, more ample leisure was afforded for examining Fort Diamond, and sauntering over the Plains of Abraham. Government has expended large sums upon the fortifications of Quebec, and which, possessed as they are of the combined advantages of nature and art, must set at defiance, I should think, the utmost efforts of bravery or skill. Among many favourable circumstances, a copious supply of wat«r within the fort is certainly not the least important. The casemates, or large bomb-proof chambers, along the ramparts, are of such dimensions as to permit the whole garrison (4000 or 5000) to parade within them, these halls of destruction communicating by large folding-doors like drawing-rooms ew suite. The walls are forty feet high, and the ditch about fifty feet wide, cut out of the solid rock. The barracks, magazines, storehouses, &c. are extensive and com- modious, and the whole arrangements admirably adapted for defence and mutual support. Nothing can be more magnificent than the coup d!ml from the old Cavalier's Battery upon the sum- mit. Far to the right and left stretches the noble St Lawrence ; close underneath is the city, with the wharfs and shipping ; and on the opposite or southern shore rises Point Levi, enlivened by many a gay white building, farms, (Src. Ranging to the east, the eye at once rests on the Isle of Orleans, dividing the river into two nearly equal branches ; and to the north-east is the bold ravine, from whence rushes the Montmorenci, precipitating its waters over a fall 240 feet in height. The river St Charles bounds 78 PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. Quebec, upon the iiortli, and from its banks a rich and cultivated country extends back for several miles to the Indian villaj>;e of Loretto, beyond which the landscape is closed by finely wooded liills as far as the eye can reach. The Plains of Abraham extend to the westward of the city, upon the table-land above the river. The high road to Montreal nearly intersects them ; and on the left, as you leave town, is the race course. Some attention has been paid to this amusement in Canada, and I saw two st<^etls in training, not, liowever, upon the verdant turf, but trashing round and round the great square, upon pavement and roads by no means smooth. One was a powerful bay-horse, got by Filho da Puta, and had cost 400 guineas ; the otber was a favoui-ite mouse- coloured mare (Clara Fisher), bred in Virginia, and of great symmetry and beauty. The Plains of Abraham, however, have witnessed more glorious and heart-stirring contests than those of the race-course ; and tiie memory of Wolfe, fall- ing as he did in the very arms of victory, must be ever cherished and revered. The inhabitants of Quebec are of a somewhat motley description. As you pass along its streets, the lively chatter of the native French, the animated brogue of the Emerald Isle, English, Scotch, and even the dialect of the Gael, assail your ear at every turn. Law proceed- ings are conducted in English and French ; and in a short trial at which I was present, the jury was charged by judge and barristers, in both tongues. I left Quebec, late at night, upon my return to RETURN TO MONTREAL. 79 Montreal, the departure of the steam-boat being de- pendent upon the tide. Tlie influx of emigrants at Quebec is very great, and a large proportion landing in a state of destitu- tion, the inhabitants are subjected to a most vexa- tious burden in providing some temporary supjdies. Fifty thousand have been landed at Quebec this season (1831), and probably ten thousand more have passed on to Montreal, without being regularly re- ported. App. No. 3 and 4. The weather was fine, and I was again fortunate in a pleasant party. Mr Molson returned with us, having abandoned all thoughts at present of attempt- ing to raise the unfortunate Waterloo. Another splendid steamer, I believe of 260 horse-power, also his property, was to be launched this day at Montreal, to be named the "John Bull ;" and his Canada friends, who seem, by-the-by, ever ready to answer, and slow to baulk, a convivial call, considered it quite inde- corous to pass over such an event without off'ering an oblation to Johns success. We stopped as before at Trois Rivieres ; and while the wood store was re- plenishing, some of the jJarty had a short ramble through the village. It was a delightful evening, and we heard with some regret the bell which sum- moned us on board. One unlucky wight, who had been at first rather tardy in his motions, was com- pelled by a second peal so to accelerate his steps, that, in passing along the plank, whether from inad- vertence or the fumes of our libation to John Bull, he missed his footing, and soused over head into 80 RETURN TO MONTREAL. the river. There was fortunately assistance at hand, and he speedily appeared in dripping garments upon deck, whence he was quickly removed to his berth. The sun set this evening with imcommon splendour. In the course of the night we reached Montreal, and at an early hour I got ashore, and resumed my quar- ters in Goodenough's hotel. ( 81 ) CHAPTER VII. Visit to the Upper Provinces— Coach Journey to La Chine— Steam-Boat Travelling on the St Lawrence— Land Travel- ling in a non-descript Vehicle — Canadian Roads — Town of Prescot. Time being precious, and the communication with the Upper Provinces being now open, I prepared to leave Montreal, upon Thursday, April 8 *. Coach hours are eai-ly in the States and in Canada. We started before 5 A. M., along a very tolerable road, for La Chine, distant nine miles. A canal, of considerable importance to commerce, by avoiding some troublesome rapids, has been formed for the like distance. The surface of the country is flat ; the soil, though light, is apparently fertile ; and the husbandry superior to what usually presents itself * However crude the travelling accommodations may yet be in Canada or the States, it is certain that matters are mending. In 1796, Weld could only find two vehicles in Albany, which were in use to be hired to travellers, and these only to be had at a most extravagant rate ; while, in order to reach the Upper Province, he says, " On arriving here (Montreal) our first con- cern was to provide a large travelling tent-camp-equipage, buf- falo skins, dried provisions, &c. and, in short, to make every usual and necessary preparation for ascending the St Lawrence by a batteau to Kingston." At present, I had only to step intothe stage-office and pay for my place, F 82 COACH JOURNEY TO LA CHINE. in this part of the world ; a circumstance wliich the vicinity of Montreal may in some measure explain. Our coach party proved a pleasant one. We had with us a sort of public chai'acter, in a journalist of the Upper Province, noted for principles, hy some called liberal, and by others denounced as breHthin7 luxuriant. Mr S from Michigan gave me much information regarding the rapid settlement of that country. He was himself deeply immersed in the stirring scene of enterprise which it presents. Pos- sessed of land, he had also built a large tav^ern, and opened a store in Ypsilanti, a town as yet scarcely recognised upon a map. He had started stages up- on the National Road through the Western Terri- tory, and was now on his way to New York, to or- der additional coaches, and to lay in merchandise of every sort. Some months after this, a friend of mine, travelling in Michigan, happened to be in his house, when a stranger, blessed with more dollars than discretion, urged S to part with his tavern. Desiring to put a stop to this, a price was named which the owner considered sufficient to close all farther palaver, but, to his sm-prise, the proposal was at once accepted, and the bargain concluded. He had now only to make over his premises, and solace himself with his dollars; but (mark !) Jonathan ha- ving been trammelled by no conditions, quickly got up a new house, transferring his residence and his run of business to the opposite side of the way, and leaving poor Johnny Newcome to shift for himself, and make the most of his purchase. We found our roads to-day, for the most part, very indifferent, and were kept in constant motion, jolting and bumping about in high style, all taking it in good humour, and enjoying our laugh in turn, as each came in contact with his neighbour's head. The coachmen drove at a capital pace, in defiance of 188 TOWN OP UTICA. all obstacles. At a wild romantic dell, called Onon- dagua Hollow, where a deep and steep bank hems in the road upon hand, and the deep ravine upon the other, we took leave to dismount, as it happened only upon the day preceding-, that when rattling down at a swinging trot, the chain of the pole gave way, and there was nothing for it but to start the team at a gallop. It was neck or nothing, but pro- videntially no accident occurred; and, in fact, it showed uncommon nerve and readiness of mind in the coachman, as he knew well that if he had at- tempted to pull up, the weight of the coach would have sent them all over the precipice to cei'tain de- struction. We passed Cayuga Lake, which seems to be shallow, upon the famous Wooden Bridge, a mile in length. It was rather late in the evening when we reached Utica, where we got very comfortably lodged in the large hotel at the Canal Bridge. This town is one of the most important of the district. The Erie Canal, the Mohawk River, and the Great Road meet here, with others diverging in all directions. Many of the buildings .are of brick, the streets wide, and the stox'es amply replenished. AVe here held a council upon our future progress, and having debated the roughness of the roads on one side, and the tedium of the track-boat on the other, finally resolved upon encountering the former, encouraged by the assu- rances of the stage-owner, that by starting at eight o'clock we should be safely housed in Albany by ten. The promise, I confess, appeared to me some- what problematical in regard to its accomplishment, ROAD TO SHENECTADY. ]89 as I knew the distance to be 100 miles; but my own wishes being in favour of the road journey, I sup- pressed all misgivings on the subject. At eight o'clock, then, we started for Albany, along the banks of the Mohawk, a beautiful and romantic stream, which, it will be remembered, falls into the Hudson at Waterford. The valley is rich, well cultivated, and bounded by finely wooded hills of considerable elevation on either side. We travelled in it for about 80 miles, to Schenectady. When about half through our first stage, we met a farmer on horseback, who informed us that a mud slip, like an avalanche, had occurred some miles in advance, at a point where a steep bank had been cut for the road immediately overhanging the canal, and that we should not, in his opinion, be able to pass. This was food for discussion. For my own part, I had acquired such unlimited confidence in the Ame- rican coachee and his cattle, that I awaited the event with little uneasiness. At last the scene presented itself, and I must say in a somewhat appalling form. The road, which was of necessity extremely narrow, had been completely swamped, and a river of mud with uprooted trees covered its line, in wild confu- sion. On our left was a sharp steep bank ten or twelve feet above the canal, and on our right the precipitous face of the hill, whence this mass had been detached. To dismount was almost impossible, as not a spot could be found on which to walk short of going knee-deep. We had therefore little choice, but to sit it out. Labourers had strewed branches and 100 SIR WILLIAM JOHNSTON. tops of trees npon the mud, wliich formed a sort of floating bridge, but the plunges of our steeds and bulky vehicle in getting through, which they did with much difficulty and hazard, gave me more un- easiness than any thing I had hitherto met with. At last we got clear, and continued our course. The German flats, upon this route, form a tract of uncommonly rich and valuable alluvial soil. The road at times traversed a more elevated part of the country, extremely romantic, the river being for the most part in view, and woods of noble trees covered with the vine in wild luxuriance. Limestone seemed to be abundant. Frequently the rocks and hills greatly resembled our wildest Highland scenery, and Little Falls, a sweet village, in many of its features powerfully reminded me of Dunkeld. We passed this forenoon the delightful residence, in olden times, of Sir A¥illiam Johnston, so well known in American Clu'onicles, for his influence over the native tribes. He acted as agent for the British Government, and lived always in the midst of the Jndians. An anecdote highly characteristic, though not quite new, was talked over as we passed ; I believe it actually occurred. Upon one occasion an old chief happening to fancy a scarlet uniform of Sir Williams, solicited an audience, and with great solemnity recounted a dream, in which the transfer of the coat formed a conspicuous figure. Sir Wil- liam, perfectly aware of their superstitious reverence for such revelations, quietly submitted, and resigned his garment to the delighted chief. In due time, , SCHENECTADY TO ALBANY. 191 however, the Baronet was favoured with his dream also : and having convoked a council, he communi- cated with much seeming gravity, that he had last night been assured of a certain tract of land h«ving been given to him by his good friends the Mohawks. There was no alternative, and Sir William actually received a valuable domain ; but the old chief most solemnly protested, that he would never again dream with Sir William. I was amused to-day with the respectable appear- ance of the scare-crows. One of them figured in a clean white shirt, which no man need have been ashamed to acknowledge : FalstaflF's men would have hailed it as a glorious prize, compared with the fruit of English hedges. From Schenectady to Albany, about twenty miles, the country is sandy and poor. We travelled at the rate of seven miles an hour, but what with our ava- lanche adventure, and some other detentions, it Avas long after midnight ere we reached the city. We had so far exceeded ordinary hours, that the Hotel was hushed in repose, and although we might cer- tainly have raised the house, it was rather doubtful whether we should thereby have improved our con- dition. We found the porter dosing in the hall, and having committed our luggage to his charge, we agreed upon diving into a certain cellar, which we had observed to be still lighted up as we drove in. Here we found a good sample of low life in Albany. It was about three in the morning, and some of the party had evidently been indulging freely during the 192 RETURN TO NKW YORK. previous liours. Still there was no brutal drunken- ness nor insolence of any kind, altliouf^h we were certainly accosted with sufficient freedom. After partaking- of some capital strong ale and biscuits, we returned to our baggage apartment, and wrapping ourselves in greatcoats and cloaks, we enjoyed a to- lerably comfortable nap, until daylight again put us in nuttion. I should have mentioned the amount of the coach fare from Geneva to Albany, which was only 7 dol- lars, or f 1 : 11 : 6, for a distance of 170 miles, with- out a farthing extra of any kind, as connected with the coach. After a saunter through the quiet streets, and vi- siting a cleanly civil fellow of a barber, who was in readiness for customers, even at this early hour, I embarked in the Albany for New York. This ves- sel, although not quite so large as the " North Ame- rica," is a steamer of the first class, noted for ele- gance, comfort, and speed. We had about sixty passengers in the cabin, increasing and diminishing at various points. The morning was balmy and de- lightful, and the scenery all that the most fastidious admirer of nature could desire. Winter had hardly disappeared M'hen I sailed up the Hudson ; the wind was then piercing, the country bleak, and the woods devoid of foliage. How great was the contrast now ! The sun shone forth in sill his glory, the farms and orchards gave the richest promise of abundance, and the noble mountains of Catskill, lofty as our Gram- pians, and covered with oak and other woods, reared ALTERED FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 193 their tops above the masses of fleecy and feathery clouds which rolled along- their sides. It was indeed a lovely scene, and I never wearied in contemplating its beauties. The verdure was so fresh, the islands, headlands, and bends of the river, so varying- and new, that I shoidd have left America totally unaware of the charms of the Hudson, had I not enjoyed this second trip upon its waters. The numerous schoon- ers and steam-vessels, too, gave constant animation to the scene. One powerful steamer with a lighter on every side, like some huge monster of the deep and her two cubs, passed us full of a colony of Swiss and German emigrants, with their goods and chattels in the boats, chaunting in great glee their wild and native airs. It is the practice of those people to move in little communities, and they generally bring out along with them their village pastor or priest, so that the change of clime scarce ever occasions to them one painful recollection. We stopped a few minutes at Poughkeepsie, where there are regular races, then just concluded, and where we took on board three coursers with their grooms. I believe they were not of the lirst class, but assuredly our Newmarket men would have turned up their noses at the stud, without excepting their tawney-faced attendants. The Highlands, the Sugarloaf, and Anthony's Nose, severally called forth our admiration, as we passed them in succession, and as the tints of evening approached new beauties were disclosed. I observed upon the banks of the river a large and N 194 UKTUUN TO NEAV YORK. simple reel, by which the fishermen dried their nets in a manner far more expeditious and handy tlian by spreading them, as we do, upon tiie beach. I may also just notice a windmill as new to me in its con- struction, the sails or arms being made to act in a horizontal direction. I am told that such are pre- ferred in the Slates, but I neglected to ascertain for what particular advantage. The approach to New York in descending the Hudson is fine, but I think decidedly inferior to the entrance from sea. First impressions, however, especially after a long voyage, must be allowed for, and Manhattan is an interesting island, view it from what point yon will. About seven we reached the VVliarf, and I found myself again established in my quarters at Bunker's, where tea ^^ dla mode " and a warm bath, prepared me for a comfortable bed, rendered more than usually accept- able after my journey of the last two days. I spent the following forenoon in paying visits, and secured my passage in the George Canning, which was the packet to sail on the 8th June. Pass- ing along Broadway I had a fortunate " rencontre" with my friend W , just arrived from Scotland, and Avho was not a little surprised when I tapped him on the shoulder, delivering himself and luggage at the City Hotel. He had been lucky in his voyage, and brought me pleasant and recent letters from home. ( 195 ) CHAPTER XVII. Steam-boat and Coach Journey to Philadelphia — Intelligent American Grazier — Bordentown — Joseph Buonaparte — Banks of the Delaware — City of Philadelphia — Oppressive Heat — Visit to Laurelhill — Sail down the Delaware, and through Chesapeake Bay to Baltimore. Having resolved upon a trip to Washington, W agreed to accompany me, and we started on the following morning at six in a splendid steamer, crowded with Quakers on their return from some great meeting of the Friends in New York. The morning was fine, and the sail down the bay and through the strait which divides Jersey from Staaten Island was quite delightful. Farms and villas on shore, ships, steamers, sloops, and boats without number, on the placid water around us. There are two steam-boat lines to Philadelphia, one by Trenton, and another by Bordentown. We went by the latter, and returned by the former. The fare was four dollars, or 18 s., including breakfast and dinner, with nearly thirty miles of land-travel- ling across New Jersey, from Amboy to Borden- town. It may be supposed that a rare scramble takes place in the transfer of a steam-boat cargo to the coaches in waiting. Matters, however, are re- n2 190 INTELLIGENT AJIERICAN GRAZIEH. markably well ordered. Each passenger receives tL ticket bearing reference to tlie coacli in which he and his luggage are deposited, the whole being trans- acted without trouble to him, or tax upon liis purse. A party wishing to be together can easily have it arranged by speaking in time to the person who dis- tributes the tickets. W and I, of course, kept together, and we had in our coach two men, respect- able in appearance, who, for the first time that I had met with in America, interlarded their conversation with abominable expletives and oaths. I soon dis- covered that they were graziers, or in some way concerned with live-stock, and, taking a fit time, I opened a chat with the one whose appearance pro- mised the greatest intelligence. Nor was I mis- taken. He proved to be very largely concerned in cattle-dealing for the New York and Philadelphia markets, bringing droves across the Alleghany Mountains often from a distance of 600 miles, and under a perfect system of arrangement. I received much useful information from this per- son, and was not a little astonished when he ad- dressed me, to find him talking, as it were, an entire- ly different language from that which he used to his friend. Not an oath or an improper term escaped fi-om his lips ; and I was taught not to judge too harshly or rashly ; for, however lamentable it was to find him giving way to such a practice at all, it was evidently not his usual custom, but an unwortliy ac- quiescence in [the detestable slang too often to be met with in Ohio or Kentucky. BORDENTOWN. 197 The soil of New Jersey appears sandy and light. The crops, notwithstanding, looked vigorous and healthy, and the Indian corn was putting up its broad blades in great promise. This State is cele- brated for its peach-orchards, which are often of great extent. But nothing in the vegetable world here surprised and delighted us so much as the weeping willows. I had seen no tree in the New World which, in my opinion, could rival them for beauty, and, at variance with the nature of the wil- low-tribe, they seemed to grow here in perfect sand. And how they do grow ! Stems of immense diame- ter, with tops spreading abroad, and drooping to the earth, in a manner graceful and picturesque beyond description. We reached Bordentown upon the banks of the Delaware about three. This is a small town, twenty- four miles above Philadelphia, and has been chosen by Joseph Buonaparte as his retreat from the poli- tics of Europe, and the shipwreck of his dynasty. The place is extensive, and the park is enclosed by a rail-fence. The house has been lately rebuilt af- ter an accidental fire, and appears to be spacious and magnificent. He has not chosen the most fertile portion of the land on which to settle, but this af- fords him the greater scope for exertion and im- provement, and much really appears to have been done. The villa commands a most enchanting view of the river. Our sail down the peaceful Delaware, with the succession of fine farms and rural retreats upon its 198 CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. banks, afforded us the greatest enjoyment. On the Pennsylvanian sliore, the country was especially rich and luxuriant, the fields often large, and the farms or estates extensive. The mansions also were in many instances on a splendid scale, evincing both wealth and taste in their owners. We reached Philadelphia abotit six in the even- ing, and fixed ourselves at the United-States-Hotel in Chesnut Street. Philadelphia contains 130,000 inhabitants, and is a beautiful and regular town. To the eye of a picturesque traveller, its extreme regu- larity may perhaps appear somewhat offensive. The United-States-Bank, opposite to the hotel in which we lodged, is a magnificent building of white marble, after the model of the Parthenon. Many of the churches, private banks, mint, people, or, in other words, the slaves, of whom he possesses about 200. We found them engaged in planting tobacco ; and here assuredly slavery wore a smiling aspect. Not that they ex- hibited noisy and unmeaning mirth, but they were steadily and cheerfully engaged, without an overseer of any description. They regard Mr C as their father and their friend ; but when looking on the little ones frisking about devoid of care, I could not divest myself of the remembrance that he might pack them off to market like a drove of pigs, with- out either father or mother having a word to say against it. Tobacco is a scourging crop. The return may be taken at one hogshead per acre, and that is worth 50 dollars, or L. 1 1, 5s. The landed proprietors in this quarter are rather indifferently off. The soil is not rich, and when a farm is sold or let, the occupier, after a few scourging crops, too often conti-ives to pocket the amount, and slip away to the west. I observed many fine standard peach-trees in the park loaded with fruit. In the evening, I walked forward to the village of Bladensburgh, about a mile from the lodge of Mr C , and the evening being remarkably warm, I entered a snug cool-looking tavern, to wait for the coach. A bottle of excellent ale, and, as usual, a plate of ice was placed before me, and I found the book-shelves well replenished with an Encyclopaedia, many volumes of poetry, biography, &c. In due time the coach appeared, o 210 CITY OF WASHINGTON. and we drove through tlie midst of the battle ground, which was warmly contested on some high open woodland, just beyond tho village. Here Colonel W received his wound, wliich procured liiin the kind attention of Mr C ; and I found next day that his visit of gratitude was held in remembrance by the President himself. We reached the city about seven, and I found W waiting for me at Gadsby's immense hotel. I was now in the capital of the United States ; but how shall I describe it ? It is a mighty skeleton, and should the world last for some thousand years longer, its massive public works may percliance be found mouldering, like the remains of the manmioth. I have great doubts, howevei*, whether the flesh and sinews will meanwhile ever have existence. Many are of opinion that the site has been rashly chosen, and various other speculations bear uj)on the stagna- tion of Washington. Leaving these matters for Time to propound, I will only say that the Capitol exceeded all I had heard of it, and whether, from its own merits, or partly, perhaps, from the absence of rivals, it struck me as the most beautiful edifice I had ever seen. It covers an acre and three quarters of ground, and cost L. 500,000. It is built of freestone, painted, and resembles marble so much, that I was at first deceived. Captain H , cavilling at this abuse of white lead, was told that it was resorted to for the purpose of effacing the smoke of the British fire- brands in 1814. CITY OF WASHINGTON. 211 The view from the mount on which it stands is com- manding and extensive. For its interior, I will re- fer to the many descriptions already published, and shall only say, that the Halls of Congress and of the Senate are indeed splendid and commodious. One wide street extends for a mile from the Capitol to the President's house ; but even this, which may be termed the backbone of the mammoth, is yet but indifferently filled up, Wednesday, June 1. — The heat this morning is excessive. Our hotel consists of a large square, with four ranges of covered galleries, bed-rooms entering from each of the two upper tiers. In the centre of the court is a marble fountain, with a copious supply of water playing upon the salads, to cool them for meals. The whole building is of timber, and a watch- man perambulates the house during the night (as is common, I believe, in all these large hotels), to guard against accidents from fire. The very idea of such a household being aroused in the dead of night by such an alarm, makes one quake. I was curious to know how they contrived to preserve untainted their fish, butcher-meat, &c. in such weather as the present, and Mr Gadsby very civilly took me down to his larder in the basement, and showed me what he called a refrigerator. This is a wooden chest, of any dimensions that may be deemed desirable, having double sides, with an in- terval of two or three inches, filled close with hard packed charcoal. There is a drawer or space at the bottom, to be filled with ice, and neat wire shelves 2o 212 INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT JACKSON. are suspended within, upon wliicli the provisions are phiced. In this way, every thing is kept in the best condition, and the butter was equally hard and firm as if the thermometer had been 50^ below the point at which it actually stood. It had naturally been my wish, when in Washing- ton, to be introduced to the President, and a kind friend in New York had promised me a letter, with that view, to Mr Van Buren, at that time Secretary of State. Ere he had accomplished his promise, however, a more particular private friend of Mr Van Buren's coming in his way, he transferred the introduction to him, and a letter was sent me from Mr Cambreleng, couched in the kindest terms, upon my object in visiting the States. This letter I had transmitted on my arrival last night, and was polite- ly requested to wait on Mr Van Buren upon the fol- lowing day. I now called as appointed, and found a message requesting me to follow the Secretary to the President's house, where he had been unexpected- ly sent for. I directly drove thither, and was re- ceived by a respectable " maitre d'hotel," and shown into a drawing-room, well furnished in a private style, and provided with abundance of periodicals to pass the time. By-and-by Mr Van Buren made his appearance, and received me with cordiality and kindness. Shortly afterwards, the venerable Gene- ral himself came down. He is a tall, thin old gen- tleman, of plain unaffected demeanour. He talked with kindly feelings towards Great Britain, inquired into my own views, and the opinion I had formed of INTERVIEW "WITH PRESIDENT JACKSON. 213 America. He mentioned certain portions of the continent as in his opinion desirable for settlers (he is partial to warm climates), and finally dispatched a message, by his private Secretary, to the General Land-office, for Mr Hayward, the Head Commis- sioner of that department, to come to him, that I might make his acquaintance. In this interval, a scene rather ludicrous occurred, but which ultimate- ly conduced to put us on more free and easy terms. The door opened, and, of all men, who should be an- nounced but Mr C , whose letter, introducing his particular friend Mr Fergusson, I had indeed de- livered, but whose face, until that moment, I had never seen. My own physiognomy, I doubt not, somewhat explained my sensations ; for Mr Van Buren immediately rose, and kindly relieved me, by saying, " Permit me, Mr Fergusson, to introduce you to your friend Mr C ," much to the amuse- ment of the President, who laughed heartily at what he could at first by no means decypher ; and, it must be acknowledged, that the coincidence was strange enough, which brought him, unlocked for, at this very moment, and during the short period of my in- terview. The President inquired whether, as regards emi- gration, I felt inclined to prefer Canada or the States? In reply, I stated, that I was much pleased with what I had seen of Upper Canada, and that I be- lieved he would not think the worse of me for hav- ing some bias to our own settlements. " Certainly not. Sir, and I have no hesitation in saying, that, so 214 INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT JACKSON. far as regards climate and soil, it is a matter of in- difference, in my opinion, whether settlers go to Upper Canada or to us ; but, I tvill say" (witli some emphasis), " that, in the States, they will find more stirring;" a remark which is perfectly just, but which I am far from admitting to be any discourage- ment. The resources of our Upper Province remain yet to be developed. Air Van Buren observed (and it was the only observation I lieard that could be said to have a " smack of the court,'') that he had al- ways been particularly struck by the steadiness and success of Scotch settlers. At the same time, and Avitliout any undue national partiality, I believe, he is amply borne out by facts. It was highly satisfac- tory to hear the libei-al and friendly expressions of these statesmen towards Great Britain, and to wit- ness the satisfaction with which they received my assurance, that in all my promiscuous intercourse with American citizens (one only exception unworthy of notice), I had every where met with a congenial and growing spirit of fraternity and goodwill. Some wounds are yet too raw for liandliiig, such as our own visit in 1814 to Washington; but if officious meddlers leave these alone, time will soon obliterate every feeling of rancour. I was very cordially wel- cx)med by Mr Hayward, who took me with him to his office, and presented me with several important documents, and all the information he could give up- on the capabilities, value, and extent of government, lands. I took my leave of the President, highly gratified with my reception. The upper part of the VISIT TO MOUNT VERNON. 215 National Mansion-House (we must not say Palace), I believe, is appropriated to the private accommoda- tion of the Chief Magistrate, and the lower to state apartments, which are very handsome, but were at this time underg-oing repairs. Tliese rooms are open to the public, and large parties were perambulating such as were for the time unoccupied, just as the houses of noblemen are visited with us, barring and excepting all shabby perquisites to menials. The grounds around the house were by no means in cre- ditable order. TJmrsday, 2d June. — Another brilliant day. Tlier- mometer at 86°. We breakfasted early, intending to take the steam-boat to Alexandria, and thence drive to Mount Vernon, which I felt the greatest anxiety to visit. Our attendants at breakfast were busied with large flappers in keeping up a circula- tion of air about the table. There is at this time a keen stage opposition on the road to Baltimore, and the owner of the coach in which we booked ourselves for the evening, offered us his gig to drive to the steam-boat, a distance of a mile and a half, through streets and squares that are to be, and which we found no trifling accommodation in a day so sultry. The Potomac is a noble river, of great depth and width, and tlie country on the Virginian shore, but within the district of Columbia, is romantic and fine : fur- ther down it becomes tame. An extensive bridge of wood unites the two banks, nearly opposite to the city, but it was injured by the ice hi spring, and has not yet been repaired. We passed the Arsenal and 21G VISIT TO MOUNT VERNON. Navy-yard, and sailed aloiig-side of a stately frigate, named after the river in which she lay, and just about to depart for China. Alexandria, seven miles below Washington, is the shipping port where the trade of the city and adjoining district is chiefly car- ried on. We here got a neat light coach, a pair of sleek, well fed horses, and a grinning good-humoured Blackey to drive ns to Mount Vernon, a distance of about a dozen miles, for which we paid three dol- lars, or 13s. 6d. The road is through a wild and rather sterile dis- trict. The forest scenery was in some places ro- mantic, and the variety of oaks surprised us, at least half-a-dozen different species being discernible as we drove along. The Kalmia latifolia (Mountain Lau- rel), here called Honeysuckle, in a luxuriance and beauty which baffle description, twined around their stems, and beds of lovely flowers enamelled the ground. At last Mount Vernon appeared, and the feelings with which (I am not ashamed to say) I al- most idolize the memory of Washington, made it in my eyes a spot of no ordinary interest. The first object which attracted my attention was a noble field of wheat in full ear, with a close useful cedar- hedge along its side, a convenience easily adopted, and which would tend greatly to improve the hus- bandry of America. The American black-thorn is also a good fence, and is rejected by the cattle, who browse upon and destroy the Virginian. The next object we en- countered was, what I would rather have met any TOMB OF GENERAL WASHINGTON. 217 where else, a gang of Negro slaves, engaged in plant- ing tobacco. There are probably few things more humiliating in the history of our race than to con- sider Washington as holding in bondage his fellow- men. The mansion is not large, but with its wings and offices makes a handsome appearance. The situation is very fine, upon a bank overlooking the Potomac, with fine woodland scenery on every side. Judge Washington, to whom the estate now per- tains, considers it unhealthy, and resides in a distant part of the State. We were conducted by a little Negro boy to the tomb of the patriot and hero : for, sure I am, if ever man existed, who, in real life, gave meaning to these terms, it was here that he lived and died. The ori- ginal vault was upon the river bank, below the house, but had suffered so much from damp, that it was found expedient, about two months ago, to remove the remains to a new one at some little distance. This is a simple building, in good taste, bearing up- on a plain marble tablet the inscription, " Tomb of the Washington Family," and beneath, " I am the Resurrection and the Life," &c. Often had I read with envy of visits to this spot, and now I actually stood where his ashes rest. Without the smallest tinge of the sentimental, I can say with truth, that few events of my life ever interested my feelings more, nor could I help reciting aloud — " How sleep the brave, who sink to rest, By all their country's wishes blest ; 218 TOMB OF GENERAL WASHINGTON. M^hen Spring,with dewy fingers cold. Returns to derk tlieir luillowM mould, She there will dress a sweeter sod Than Fancy^s feet have ever trod" I tliink Collins must have been favoured with a pro- phetic vision of Mount Vernon, when he penned these beautiful lines. Our ding-y guide looked somewhat astonished at my effusion, and, I doubt not, was all the while, in sober earnest, reckoning up how iwixny Ji penny hits he was likely to make of us. AYe walked over the rooms of the house without meeting any thing of in- terest, saving, perhaps, the key of the Bastile, de- posited here by La P'ayette, a well chosen gift to lay upon the altar of independence. Ihe neglected condition of Bural Grave-yards struck me with surprize, indeed sometimes with dis- gust. That a people of yesterday should feel some- what indifferent to gorgeous mausoleums, is natural enough ; but that it should extend to the absence of common decency, is reprehensible and disgraceful. I do not recollect of observing one instance of a bu- rial-ground (except in towns) which was kept in to- lerable order, while too frequently the remains of departed friends Avere open to every unhallowed bi- ped or quadruped who might be inclined to intrude. This ought not to be, and it is to be hoped, the bet- ter feelings of the people will ere long be awakened to correct it. The absence of parochial divisions, and the frequent changes of property, with the con- sequent changes of abode, will go far to explain this RETURN TO NEW YORK. 2] 9 neglect ; but although these causes may afford some explanation, they form no substantial excuse ; and we can even imagine the National Union to be ce- mented by visits from the childi*en, now perhaps settled upon the Mississippi or Ohio, to the sacred spot where, on the banks of the Hudson or Connec- ticut, may rest the ashes of their fathers. We returned to the city, and in the afternoon proceeded to Baltimore. The only object of inte- rest on the road occurred after sunset, when the fo- rest, in its deepest recesses, assumed the semblance of a great city under a splendid illumination. Mil- lions of fire-flies flitted on every side, and presented one of the most beautiful and interesting spectacles which W or I had ever witnessed. The heat during this day has been about as great as is ever known, the thermometer ranging even so high as 92° and 94° in the shade. It was late before we reached Baltimore, and we left it early next morning, in the steam-boat, for Philadelphia. Our boat was the " Carrol of Carrol- ton," named after a venerable old gentleman, sole survivor then (for he, too, is since gone) of those who signed the Declaration of Independence. We had a crowded cabin, and all descriptions of travel- lers, even from the prince to the peasant. The for- mer a " rara avis " here, was personified by a most agreeable and intelligent individual, the Prince of Wurtemberg, then returning from an extensive tour in the south and west. _ Of the humbler class, we had some of the rough- 220 RKTURN TO NEW YORK. est gentry I had yet met witli. A portion of the stern gallery is specially appropriated to the ladies, where they may sit or walk without intrusion. In ignorance, I had sauntered to that end of the vessel, and two very coarse-looking gentlemen followed my steps, when presently a person came to us to men- tion that we were breaking rules, at the same time whispering in my ear that I miglit stay or retire, as I pleased. One of my fellow-culprits observed what passed, and immediately questioned me what the captain might have been saying to me. I told him, what was very true, that I was not aware he had been the captain ; " Yes," says he, " it's the cap- tain ; and I ffiiess he was making an excuse to t/ou for turning us forward, and that you might stay." Of course I closed the discussion by walking forward, but I could see that their feelings were pi'etti/ cofisi- derahly excited. We made the run to Philadelphia, 120 miles, in eleven hours, including the delay of the canal. I had some interesting conversation in Philadelphia with Mr Carey, one of the most eminent publishers and bibliopoles of America ; but upon that I cannot at present enter. Saturday, Ath June. — Anotlier roaster. We moved at six in the steamer for New York, and met with nothing particular, except our extraordinary caval- cade across Jersey by Princeton. The road was mere sand, and the day stiltry beyond tolerance. We started thirteen coaches, and the cloud of dust is more easily imagined than described. We kept at RETURN TO NEW YORK. 221 a respectful distance, too, from each other, but there was not an air of wind to dispei'se the foe ; and ma- ny a green silk pelisse and gay bonnet would, I am sure, rue their appearance on this occasion. The agony of the fair owners was affecting and amusing by turns. Upon the Monday and Tuesday of the following week, I was engaged in taking leave of friends, and in making preparations for my voyage. W and I had made an appointment with our friend the cat- tle-dealer, to meet him on the morning of the 6th in the Smithfield of New York, and we attended ac- cordingly. The stance is about two miles from town, with very suitable yards and pens. The show was rather indifferent this morning, and our friend had been prevented from getting there. I think there were about 200 oxen on the ground, running from 40 st. to 70 st. each, but they could not be reckoned more than half fat. I think they had all been in the yoke. We breakfasted at the ordinary with the butchers and graziers, and, though not quite so elegant as in Bunker's, had every thing comfort- able and clean. The most entertaining circumstance we met with, was the free and unsophisticated ease of a gentle- man, whom I fixed upon, in my estimate of charac- ters at breakfast, as one of the leading and old-esta- blished butchers of the city. He seemed quite at home with all the farmers, handled their stock in proper style, decided on their weight, condition, &c. with equal promptitude and fluency. I determined to make a set at him, and thought I had done won- 222 RETURN TO NEW YORK. re#/y considerahh/ annoy him ; while, in lieu of smart waiters, a set of grinning Negroes, in snow-white garments, minister to his wants. He looks round for an egg-cup, and lo ! a wine-glass, like a half-pint, is presented to him. In this he vainly essays to poise his e^^, until, casting his eye across the table, he perceives that his neigh- bour has already disposed of a couple, by turning the contents into the glass, and the shells into the slop- basin. Getting over the aifair of the e^^, he puts in his claim to a beefsteak, or rather to a portion, that article commonly rivalling, in regard to size, the top of a lady's work table, and has just, much to his satisfaction, commenced his attack, when again he is arrested by an offer of some sddce, and a kind Yankee proffers him, at the same time, a plate of very questionable looking stuff", which, should his complacency or curiosity induce him to accept, proves — Oh I ye shades of Apicius and of Kitche- ner ! positively to he apj)les in preserve. These mat- ters are no doubt, jinnoying ; but yet we ought not to be over hasty in our criticisms, nor pronounce dog- matically upon the comforts of foreigners, until we have looked more soberly at home. Domestic attendants, those fruitful agents of com- fort or of torment, form by no means the most agreeable ingredients of an American household. It cannot bo expected, in a land where so many DOMESTIC ATTENDANTS. 233 openings present themselves for securing an inde- pendence, that those ties can exist, which, in Britain, carry domestics through years of service, and almost identify them with the family itself. Such things are not to be looked for in the States for generations to come. But I do not believe that matters are in reality nearly so bad as have been represented. Many respectable friends assured me, and my per- sonal observation concurred, that the difficulties of procuring and of managing domestics have been greatly exaggerated. You must lay your account Avith frequent changes, which are certainly unplea- sant, but still the supply is found, and by a proper admixture of firmness and of kindness, due obedience and respect will generally be secured. In the newly settled regions of the West, tlie difficulty is necessa- rily enhanced and the discomfort augmented; but this is just one of the desagremens which an Ohio or Michigan settler must take into account. Where they fail to do so, disappointment and annoyance must follow. In the families of the ricli you en- counter no parti-coloured fops, with loads of lace and livery buttons ; but you meet with genteel, obli- ging, and respectable attendants, frequently from the continent of Europe ; and in ordinary families or public hotels, &c. men of colour, i. e. Blacks, are the usual lielps. From none did I ever receive an un- civil word or meet witli a sulky look. I was civil to them, and they were at all times civil and ser- viceable to me. But we are told no man dares to call one of his attendants servant. Perhaps such a 234 RESPECT FOR THE LADIES. term might give ofl'ence : I know not. But let us think for a moment how rarely have we occasion, at home, to cull on Jack or Tom, by such a designa- tion. Tlie insidious and unreasonable prejudice which too generally prevails in America against un- happy Negroes, and a dread upon the part of those who are free, of being classed with their less fortu- nate brethren, contributes greatly to a dislike of the term servant in the States, which is there considered as nearly synonymous with slave. It has surprized me a good deal in some recent pub- lications, to observe an insinuation brought against the Americans, of rude indifference towards the softer sex. So totally different was my impression, that over and over again in my note-book, I find a reflexion recorded, that America is the very Para- dise for ladies, and that both in public and in private they seem to be treated as a sort of pets. The sole contx-ol of the household appeared to be given up to them, but severe and laborious duties were never exacted. In public conveyances the most scrupulous deference was at all times paid to the female traveller, and in an especial degree if she chanced to be without a male conij)anion or friend. In a late clever pub- lication, we Jiave had a picture given us of an Ame- rican ball-room, where the ladies were left to flirt their fans, while the gentlemen retired to a comfort- able supper. I am bound to believe the fact, but I totally deny the general inference, that American beaux are so shamefully insensible to the comfort of their belles. In the case in question I am almost EESPKCT FOR THE LADIES. 235 sure that some particular cause must have occasioned the arrangement, seeing that it is at total variance vt'ith the tenderness and respect bestowed by Ame- ricans on their countrywomen. That Mrs Trollope may have personally met with indifference and dis- respect, I make little doubt. The tone of her work is that of disappointment and chagrin. Whether this may have proceeded from the failure of certain speculations in Cincinnati, or from the coolness which respectable female society in the States would most properly display towards the chum of an infidel and li- bertine Fanny Wright, are points of little moment, save to the lady herself. But all who delight in candour and honesty-must reprobate works, however smartly written, where sweeping inferences are drawn from isolated facts, and a prominence given in the foreground to features which, with any due regard to truth, could only have been delineated as existing in the most shadowy distance of the land- scape. I am strongly inclined to suspect that Mrs Trollope has either never mixed in good society in the States, or that she wilfully misrepresents it. Neither can I altogether pass over her Pencil Illus- trations of American manners. In common with most of her readers, I smiled over them, good easy man, under the simple belief, that she presented us with the fruit of her own observation and adven- tures. But how was the spell broken, and how did they dwindle in interest, when a hint reached me that these living pictures of offending Yankees posi- tively owed their existence to the labours of an ac- 2.10 STATE OF RELIGION. «!oiiiplislied fellow-passeng'er in the packet on her homeward voyag-e. My conviction remains unshaken, tliat the Americans value and delight in female so- ciety ; and it is to the gentle and winning influence of such agents, that I fondly look for an early aban- donment of habits, which truth txnd good-breeding nmst decidedly condemn. The state of religion in a nation is always deeply interesting, and some peculiar features distinguish in tins respect the United States. Here a church establishment has no existence. Each congregation, and of whatever sect, is strictly independent. It would ill become me, with the limited means of knowledge which I possess, to offer an opinion up- on so grave a subject. Strong arguments may be adduced in support of an established church, and perhaps no less forcible reasons adduced to condemn it. The remark of a citizen of New York regard- ing this point, seemed to me to be reasonable and just. " It is one thing," says he, " Sir, to start, ab initio, as we have done, without an established church, and another, and very different one, to pull down a venerable fabric, Aviiich has existed for ages, and has become incorporated witli the constitution itself." Wild and extravjigant fanatics have too fre- quently brought disgrace upon religion in the States, and Unitarianism has in many places made fearful strides. Still the conclusion to which I have come is favourable to the growth of pure and vital Chris- tianity in the populous and civilized portion of the Union. It is a point, however, which I would touch STATE OK REMGION. 237 M-ith diffidence, knowing the incompetency of a bird of passag-e like myself to enlarge upon such a sub- ject. I heard several orthodox and earnest preachers. I observed, in public and in private, a decent obser- vance of the Sabbath. The official papers of govern- ment uniformly recognise the superintending care of a beneficent God. No shops were to be seen open on the day of sacred rest, still less were theatres or places of amusement. Public travelling was not in general use, and the transmission of the mail on that day had been debated in the preceding session of Congress, where the question was lost, chiefly on the ground, that tlie Constitution forbade any inter- ference by government with matters of conscience. There can be no doubt, however, that Sabbath pro- fanation is practised in some quarters to a fearful extent. As regards the fruits of religion, there can be little question, that, taking them as z, people, the citizens of America are virtuous and exemplary. Conjugal infidelity is extremely rare, and in more than one of the States, is visited by fine and impri- sonment. In the large cities, at least of the Middle and Northern States, vice does not stalk abroad in that disgusting form, which may be said to deprive respectable females in Europe of the free enjoyment of our public spectacles and walks. Neither did I observe one solitary instance of filthy ribaldry on doors or walls, which so generally presents itself among ourselves. A great deal has been said re- garding the abuse of ardent spirits, and the terms Gin Sling, Mint Julops, Antifogmatics, Sec. have be- 238 STATE OP MORALITY. come identified with America itself. Now, whether the change has been brought about by Temperance Societies, or by other agents, I know not ; but I am bound to believe, that an alteration in the national propensity has been in some way effected, because I have to record, that, in travelling through many por- tions of the land, living much in public, c^c. J did not encounter one individual in a state of intoxication, and but one in a state of troublesome excitement. Nay, I must say more. Brandy, gin, -hly respectable in regard to dress and demeanour, and I in vain endeavoured to shew her some civility. My fellow-travellers stared at me in dismay, and the poor firl was herself so nervously distressed, that I was glad to leave her undisturbed. Mr B , an American barrister, stated, that last year, in the prin- cipal boarding-house of Mobile, in Alabama, while his own sister was an inmate, a gentleman of wealth and of most agreeable manners happened to arrive, and was made welcome by all. In a few days a dis- covery was by some chance made, that he had a SALARIES OF PUBLIC OFFICERS. 245 dash of Negro blood in his veins, though quite im- perceptible in his looks, and for that reason alone, it was rudely insisted upon that the landlord should give him notice to remove. These are, indeed, foul blotches, and, in one form or another, the day of re- tribution will arrive. The Americans are a busy and an enterprising people ; and whether in conducting public works, or in transacting their own private aifairs, it is asto- nishing to observe their industry and zeal. In diplo- macy they must be acknowledged to excel. We do not, it is true, find splendid hotels, nor extravagant establishments, the refuge of some needy Peer, or embarrassed Commoner ; but while John Bull pays for such things, a humble individual with a very moderate allowance, is dispatched from Washington, and quickly obtains redress of grievances from the proudest potentate or the deepest Machiavel in Eu- rope. In regard to the salaries of their public offi- cers, it has been thought, and probably with justice, that in America they are too low. In relation to Britain, I believe we may fairly state the amount t(t be in dollars which with us is paid in pounds. Very unfair descriptions have been given of public life and of publicmeu in the States. Locality makes, in general, the difference between falsehood and truth. Take the statesmen of Washington, and you will find them to differ in but a trifling degree from what is cur- rent in Downing Street or Whitehall. Go into the rude and newly settled regions of the west, and no doubt a very different scene awaits us. But can it be call- 216 UNFAIR DESCRIPTION OF THE AMERICANS. ed lionouniMc or just to cotifoutul the two? A gontlcnmu told ine, tliat hapixMiiufr to outer the House of Assembly at Coliiinbus, he found the Le- gislators warmly engaged in debate upon the mo- mentous question, " Whether they should sit in council with ha/s off" or hats on? It was finally car- ried that each should do as to himself seemed best. At India-nopolis, the same gentleman found three Members in f/ie House fjuictly seated without coats or vest, and attired in red worsted sliirts. Could any honest man, however, reconcile it to his conscience to quote such occurrences, as fair samples of public men and of Legislative Assemblies in the States ? Assuredly he could not. Time will rapidly alter the complexion of affairs in these infant States, and re- finement will speedily follow. I am not sure, whe- ther in some cases, a love of popularity may not give rise to Juibits rather uncouth and rude. Gene- ral Porter, who had filled the office of Secretary of War, resides at Buffalo. A gentleman told me that he was introduced, by a mutual friend, to the Ex-secretary, whom they met, in a waggoner's frock, actually driving Iiis own team to the mill. This was republican simplicity indeed ; and sup- posing it to be sincere, nuist be allowed to rival Cincinnatus himself. It is a matter of regret that we should find, in some rather influential quarters, a disposition to sneer at the United States, and to foster a spirit of rancour between two great nations, who are bound by every tie to support and to cherish one another. QUARTERLY KEVIEw's BIISREPKESENTATIONS. 247 Witliout Stopping- to analyze Tariffs, or to cavil about boundary lines, which are of little actual worth, we may venture to assert, that, should Chris- tianity and civil liberty be abandoned by the rest of the world, there is reason to believe that the United States and Great Britain will be I'eady to perish in their support. A certain periodical, pretty well known for its high Tory principles, has seen fit to draw some ex- traordinary, and, I conceive, unsound infei-ences re- garding- the expenditure of the United States, which deserve exposition from an abler pen than mine. * I would pass over in contempt the sneering tone ill which is noticed the annual allowance made to the Chief Magistrate of the nation ; but when the writer insists upon adding to the budget, what he calls, " a very heavy class of disbursements, imder the control of the separate state governments, and ge- nerally kept out of view," I would presume to inquire, whether in drawing up a schedule of the expenditure of the British empire, he is disposed to add a few such items, as our paupers, our jails, our bridewells, our roads, canals, harbours, &c. &c., being inclined to suspect that some such classification will be found requisite, ere a fair parallel can be drawn between the expenditure of the two nations. Again we find this Anti-Columbian assuming that the civil expenditure of the United States must increase pro rato with the population, — an assump- * See Quarterly Keview, January 1832. 248 MISREPRESENTATIONS OF tion which amounts to this, that, because my neigh- bour chooses to lavish ten thousand pounds a-year in supporting a family of twenty persons, ergo and ex necessitate, I am precluded from maintaining my household (alike in number) upon the tithe of that sum. Or tiiat because America, yet in childhood, conducted lier affairs with tolerable wisdom and prudence, we have only to await a period of maturer age, when we shall infallibly find her playing the fool. I shall not enter upon the Ecclesiastical or Legal Departments, as it would be tedious to discuss here the statemeuts upon the branches exhibited in the Quarterly, but will merely notice one essential feature, -which has been omitted, viz. that, while the judges have certain fixed salaries, the expense of law courts is mainly borne by those only who indulge in litigation, or enjoy its protection, and that the al- lowance to the clergy bears a relation to the work done, so widely different from what our establish- ment in England displays, that the whole aspect of the question is changed, and in fact had far better never have been mooted by a true friend of our church, except with a view to wholesome and time- ous amendment. When upon the subject of this review, I will take leave to tender a word of advice to Captain Basil Hall regarding his statistics. In his North Ame- rican travels, he states that each citizen of Pennsyl- vania is assessed in the sum of eiyht shillings and a penny Sterling for public taxes or government expenses. CAPTAIN BASIL HALL. 249 Now this lie has done in jjessima Jide, after having been put in possession of the true amount, which does not exceed one shilling and twopence. This statement, I am aware, requires explanation, and I shall readily afford mine, leaving it to the Captain, should he hear of the charge, to gratify the public with his. When preparing his work. Captain H — — applied to a most intelligent and upright individual in the States to procure for him an account of the sums levied and expended by different States, with the view of contrasting America and Britain in re- gard to the burdens laid upon the inhabitants of each. In the communication made, as regards Penn- sylvania, where, ex facie, a very large expenditure appeared, a special memento was given to Captain H., reminding him, that the main portion of this out- lay was a temporary one, upon canals and railroads, then constructing to the extent of 800 miles, and in which 4000 men were employed. These works, it was sufficiently clear, would not only prove of the greatest indirect benefit, but must undoubtedly yield a handsome direct revenue to the State. With all this before him. Captain H. was very reasonably ex- pected to mention the fact. He has not thought fit to do so, but throws the whole together without one word of explanation, and deduces the above sum of 8s. Id. as the yearly exaction from each citizen of Pennsylvania towards the public expense. Can it be a matter of surprize that conduct such as this should meet with reprobation and contempt, w.here the inaccuracy and unfairness are in every 250 MISUKPRESENTATIONS. man's power to detfct. I am (jiiite prepared to enter more minutely into tliis matter, should there be need. By withliolding the necessary explanation accompanying such an important document, an author may be fairly said to forfeit public confi- dence and trust ; and I shall only add, that it will afford me most sincere pleasure to offer Captain Hall an apology, upon receiving satisfactory evi- dence that I have been led into error or mistake. ( 251 ) CHAPTER XX. Embark in tlie George Canning for England — Account of Great Sea Serpent confirmed — Arrive at liiverpool. Upon Wednesday, June 8th, a delightful morn- ing", I embarked with my fellow-passengers, eight in number, on board of a steamer, by which we were conveyed down the bay to the George Canning, and as we had no female passengers, I got myself, by the kind suggestion of Captain AUeyn, comfortably stowed away in a lady's^ berth. The weather was pleasant, but ratlier calm for making way. On the 10th we had made little more than fifty miles from land. The Francis of Greenock sailed along with us from New York. We soon parted company, and saw no more of her till I found her, on my ar- rival from Liverpool, safe in the Clyde, where she had just come to anchor. Our party consisted of mercantile gentlemen, chiefly English, from South America, and sad was the picture they drew of those unhappy provinces. Bolivar, to me a hero of romance, I found, by their unquestionable testimony, convicted of public and of private vices, which rendered his memory odious and vile. Religion is there a mere conformity to supersti- tious rites, and even then is generally confined to the 252 STATK OF SOUTH AMKRICA. females aiul to the people of colour. The fountain of justice is utterly corrupted, and judg-meuts are noto- riously sold to the highest bidder. Liberty has no other meaning save a licence to do as every man may list. The soldier understands it to mean a re- lease from civil controul ; the people, an exemption from any impost or taxes ; the priest, an absence of all check upon the power of the Church. A bitter enmity exists between the remnant of the native Americans and the Negro race, which alone pre- vents the latter from ridding themselves by violence of their chains. Altogether, it was a sickening ac- count of a country, blessed as they all agreed it was, with a climate and a soil of the choicest description. Wednesday, I5th. — We have been a week at sea, and our party proves to be remarkably pleasant. None have been unwell, and the good cheer is in constant requisition. " We eat, and drink, and sleep. What then ? We drink, and eat, and sleep again." I think there is a strong tendency on board of ship to dream : probably the full living, the want of ordinary exercise, and the motion of the vessel, may all contribute. The George Canning is a delightful vessel, and comfortably appointed in all respects. Captain Al- leyn is most polite and attentive to his guests, and has every thing well regulated and in good order. Saturday 18th. — We crossed part of the Great Bank to-day, and the weather is foggy and cold. The thermometer is 30° below what we left it at SEA SERPENT. 253 New York. It was then 92°, and to-day 42°. When upon the Banks there is a difference of 15° or 20° below the temperature when out of soundings. We have had it so low as 40°, and Captain Alleyn sus- pects the vicinity of ice-bergs. When the water in- dicates a temperature below 40°, it becomes neces- sary to look out sharply for ice. Friday, 24th. — We have now a fine south-west wind, and our ship is cutting her way in gallant style. 243 miles, by the log, in the last twenty- four hours. Myriads of molluscse are passing us every moment, and we have been never weary in admiring the shoals of small porpoises, contending, as it were, in speed with the vessel. They shoot, like racers, from stern to stem, and then renew their course over and over again ; the prismatic colours on their sides glistening in endless variety and beauty. Wlio can tell the wonders of the mighty deep ? Of these, one had always impressed my mind as a fiction. When asking Captain Alleyn, in a jocular manner, one day, if he had ever met with any man, who pretended to have seen the Sea-Serpent, how great was my surprise to have his serious reply, " Why, sir, I have seen it myself, and all my crew." He then stated, that, in January 1820, he was re- turning from Batavia, and was running, with a light air, along the shore of Long Island, when he saw, in broad day, an object on the surface of the sea, about a mile from the ship, which at first he sup- posed to be a whale. On taking the glass, however, he at once discovered it to be totally difl:*erent. The 254 SEA SERPENT. head lay flat, with a snout, ratlier under the surface of the water; tlie hack was arched, and the knobs of the vertebra; quite distinct, the tail was long- and ta- pering ; the end about three feet broad ; and the po- sition horizontal. It attracted at once the notice of every man as he came on deck; and Captain Alleyn, as well as his crew, had all been accustomed to laugh at the story of the serpent. For a full half hour they contemplated the monster; and, com])uting its length from the land beyond it, all agreed that it could not be less than the length of the vessel, which was 100 feet. As they neared it, the animal g'ot into motion, first towards the shore, and then, ma- king an immense sweep, and leaving a wake, as Cap- tain Alleyn said, like a frigate, it disappeared, leav- ing the water in a state of commotion. I find also that the serpent was seen by the packet ship Silas Richards, about five years ago, off Nan- tucket ; and Mr Orr, one of our passengers, inform- ed me, that an acquaintance of his was on board, a man who was particularly incredulous of wonders, but who nuidily concurred in the certificate signed upon the subject. Our frequent calms led us to con- verse upon the application of steam to the Atlantic. Captain Alleyn does not consider it likely to succeed. It is in a dead calm alone that they would be effec- tive, as they could not stem the Atlantic to much purpose (in his opinion) against a head wind. The paddles, and machinery, and fuel, would oc- cupy so much of the mercantile stowage, that the freight would depend too exclusively upon passen- ARRIVAL AT LIVERPOOL. 255 gers, wlio, again, would be shy of committing- them- selves for such a voyage to the hazards of steam and of fire. It has been ascertained, however, that a steam-vessel may navigate the Atlantic. The late Emperor Alexander having proclaimed a munificent recompense to the first that should reach St Peters- burgh, the citizens of Savannah, N. America, ap- peared to claim the reward. From some unexplained reason, however, it was not paid, and the steamer returned in safety to her native shores, Friday, July \st. — This is our twenty-third day, and at 12 noon we descried the Irish coast. Captain Alleyn ran from Sandy Hook to Cape Clear, in April 1830, in thirteen days. The New York made the whole passage to Liverpool in fifteen days and six hours. Upon an average of several years, it has been ascertained, pretty correctly, that the passage from Liverpool may be taken at thirty-five days, and from New York at twenty-three and some hours. We did not come to anchor in the Mersey until the morning of the 4th, being twenty-six days of as pleasant navigation as any man could have desired. It may be presumed that I made but a short sojourn in Liverpool. I sailed in the steamer for Glasgow on the same evening, and reached home upon the 6th, in safety and comfort. Perhaps it may be use- ful to mention that my whole actual outlay was £145, of which about £10 were expended upon books and apparel. I have only to add a sentence of regret upon the 256 LOSS OF THE GEORGE CANNING. fate of the poor George Canning. On the second trip after the one which brouglit me home, this splendid vessel was totally wrecked upon the Ame- rican coast. The accident arose from fog ; and Captain Alleyn Avas in the act of wearing the ship when she struck. Sure I am that his anxiety and distress must have been great, but it would be no small consolation to him, that there was no loss of life, and that his passengers, with their luggage, were landed in safety. ( 257 ) PART II. [Having now brought to a conclusion my Notes, or Journal, I will submit a Statistical Communication, addressed to tbe Directors of the Highland Society, soon after my return to Scotland, in the hope that, as it is rather more special and minute, it may prove, perhaps, of some small use and advantage to intending emigrants.] In reference to a resolution of the Directors, which they did me the honour of transmitting, through their Secretary, upon the eve of my departure for America, I felt it my duty to furnish the following statement regarding the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, with such portions of the United States as came under my personal observation, or regarding which I acquired information from au- thentic sources during my excui'sion. R ( '258 ) Witlioiit reference to the precise route which 1 fol- lowed, ray observations were directed, 1st, To Lower Canada; 2d, To Upper Canada ; 3d, To the United States. In treating of these, my leading object has been to ascertain their respective advantages or disadvan- tages to emigrants from Britain. ( 259 ) CHAPTER I. Lower Canada — Climate — Soil — Agriculture — Markets—^ Upper Canada — Lumber- trade — Bay of Quinte — Value of Land — York — Canada Company. Lower Canada lies between 43° and 52° N. Lat., and 64° and 82° W. Long. To those ig-norant of the geographical position, there is something in the term Lower strongly indi- cative of a superiority in climate, which is by no means borne out by actual circumstances. Winter, in the Lower Province, wears a more severe and protracted form than it does on the great table-land above. Many decisive facts in confirmation of this might be adduced. I shall only mention, that wheat cannot here withstand the severity of winter, re- quiring to be sown in spring, and occasioning there- by both loss and inconvenience to the farmer in wet and late seasons ; while quails, or Virginian par- tridges, it may be observed, which abound in the Upper, are totally unknown in the Lower Province. The soil is generally a fertile clay, which has hardly been yet brought, in any instance, to the test of what it may produce. It is generally occupied in small possessions, which continue, with the exception r2 260 LOWER CANADA. of some large scignories and church-lands, to fritter more and more away, from the absence of a check in the law of primogeniture, and a want of enter- prize in the people, which might lead them to coun- teract this effect, by entering on new land. The ])opulation is chiefly French, and the religion Roman Catholic. The hahitons arc industrious, frugal, and contented ; but their condition, to say the least, is almost stationary, and the lial)its or practices of their fathers are far too scrupulously revered. In person they are rather good-looking, especially the men ; and to view them, clothed in their homespun drug- get frocks, with a physiognomy of absolute content, peering from imder the large hood so well fitted for a Canadian winter, is to obtain an assurance of un- questionable happiness and comfort. The numerous orchards and abundance of fruit, evince what steady and strong heat will produce, even with a winter of the most intense cold ; and while this supply contri- butes in a considerable measure to the wealth of the people, it adds in no small degree, with the aid of the sugar maple, to the enjoyments of a board in all respects plenteously furnished. The fine island of Montreal is covered with orchards, and in every quar- ter they present themselves in rich luxuriance. Notwithstanding, however, ()f these, and the many advantages which approximation to the sea-coast holds out, I should certainly not consider Lower Canada likely to realize the hopes of British settlers. A certain degree of political or national jealousy on the part of the French population, Mdiich regards AGRICULTURE. 261 Avitli suspicion and distrust the increase of British emigrants, cannot fail to harass and annoy. To many, tlie difference of religion, and scarcity of Protestant churches, will prove a drawback. To many more the preponderance of the French lan- guage, laws, and manners, will create a serious ob- stacle. Nor am I aware of any existing circum- stances, in the Lower Province, which can be said to counterbalance these objections. It is no doubt true, that many individual instances of prosperity are to be met with in Lower Canada, among agricultural settlers from Britain and Ireland ; but these must be viewed as exceptions, and not fol- lowed as a rule. Even the land-measure will somewhat tend to em- barrass a stranger, as it is the arpent (about one- fifth less than the English acre) which is in use, and the tenure and titles of his property will still more perplex him. I had an opportunity of seeing and conversing with several British emigrants, who either occupy or possess farms in Lower Canada, and the uniform conclusion to which all of them came, was an advice to look at the Upper Province, before I formed an opinion upon the eligibility of a settlement. I am quite aware that several of these individuals are prospering in a measure, which might possibly be curtailed, if too many farmers of a like stamp should become located beside them ; but I am equally satisfied that no such jealousy influenced the advice I received, and that the established convic- tion of all, who are experimentally acquainted with 262 LOWER CANADA. Canad.n, is in favour of the Upper Province, as a set- tlement for British agriculturists. I say agricultu- rists, because those emigrants who liave been accxis- tomed to live partly by fishing', will certainly succeed best in the maritime portion of our North American possessions. Emigrants who have obtained land near Quebec or Montreal, and who are industrious and active, profit, of course, very handsomely by the vicinity of these cities. Dairy produce brings in excellent returns, and every thing finds a market ; and although mere lo- cality cannot avail so much as formerly, when steam- navigation was unknown, still great advantages re- main to the occupier of land near large to\\iis. It is to be remarked, too, that the greater supply of farm-produce, occasioned by the introduction of steam-boats, has materially increased the consump- tion, and has thereby compensated to the farmer the fall in price, which necessarily followed. — Fresh butter, which sold, in 1817, for Is. 6d. per pound in Montreal, may now be had for 6d. In summer it is a perishable article, and must be sold when it comes to market. But hay, straw, potatoes, &c. and the very soil itself, are becoming, in the vicinity of ]Mon- treal, what an Angus farmer termed to me, " mis- chievously dear ;' and those who are in possession of farms in that vicinity will reap an abundant harvest. — My Angus friend, who seemed to be in the enjoy- ment of very easy circumstances, affords a proof, among hundreds, of what an industrious and steady AGRieUIiTURE. 263 man may do for himself in Canada. He came out in 1817, was wrecked in the Gulf of St Lawrence, suffered many hardships, and finally landed at Mont- real, devoid of every resoui'ce, save his own hands and g'ood spirits. He soon found employment, and in due time took a lease of a farm, which he finds to succeed extremely well. His wheat and potatoes, he says, are excellent ; oats, inferior. He cultivates green crops, taking mangel wurzel instead of tur- nips, which suflFer from the fly. He uses horses in preference to oxen; has iron-ploughs, and follows what he called a sor< of rotation, — 1st, Wheat; 2d, Green crop; 3d, Clover; 4th, Timothy for hay ; and, 5th, Pasture. Several farms are at this time to let in this quar- ter. The rent expected is 10s. or 12s. per acre. The Canadian farmers pursue the old Scottish practice of infield and outfield, taking crop after crop of grain from their fields, until nothing but weeds remain, and looking to Nature for that reno- vation which their own industry ought to have ef- fected. It may appear almost incredible, but I was assur- ed of the fact, that it was by no means unusual, as winter occupation among the habitans, to drive out dung from their farm-yards and deposit it upon the glassy surface of the St Lawrence, there to await the breaking up in spring, as a riddance from what they consider a worthless incumbrance. In tracing a route upwards from Montreal, the eve of an emigrant is speedily arrested by the junction 264 LOWER CANADA. of the Uttawas, or Grand River, falling- into the St Lawrence. I did not visit the settlements of this district, and do not therefore speak of them from personal observation ; but they are well known to be valuable, extensive, and increasing'. The Utta- was has, of late years, attracted the notice of Go- vernment, as a safe route for troops and stores to the Upper Province, in the event of war with the United States. Fn surveying its banks, and applying its course to this purpose, extensive tracts of fine land have been located, and several very promising settlements have been established. Of tliese, I may notice Perth, Richmond, and Lanark, the two for- mer chiefly coni[)osed of retired officers and reduced soldiers; the latter, of families from the manufactur- ing districts in the west of Scotland, who came out in 1820, and all, I believe, as communities, doing well. All of these were assisted and fostered by Govermnent. A military road communicates be- tween Uttawas and Kingston, upon Lake Ontario, a distance of 240 miles. The Rideau Canal passes through a part of the country between this line of road and the St Lawrence. The soil of this part of Canada is good ; but the country is flat, the lakes shallow, and the streams frequently sluggish, which jnust be necessarily ac- companied, for a time, with fever and ague to a greater extent than more airy and better watered si- tuations present. There can be no doubt, however, that the settlements already formed, and to be form- ed, in this quarter, will prosper. Government has UPPER CANADA. 265 done much for tbein by public works, which can Scarce fail to benefit the country, whether they do or do not effect the objects for which they were plan- ned ; and the steam communication upon the Uttawas with Montreal is already in operation. Upper Canada is situate between 42° and 52° N. Lat., and between 73" 30' W. Long., and, indeed, indefinite bounds to the west. Returning to the St Lawrence, we enter the Up- per Province, the Uttawas here forming tlie bound- ary line. As we ascend the river, we find nume- rous settlers, and thousands of acres well adapted for the farmer. One of the first settlements we meet with is the Glengarry district, an extensive tract of good land, enjoying the advantages of water carriage. The language, the customs, the native courage of their Celtic sires, still distinguish the clan, though, at the same time, we are afraid, accompa- nied by some of those less profitable traits which stamp the Highlander as more at home in wielding the claymoi'e, or extracting the mountain-dew, than in guiding the ploughshare to slow but certain re- sults. The farms are but indiiferently improved, considering the advantages they have enjoyed ; and much valuable time is expended in the depths of the forest, in a demi-savage life, cutting and preparing timber for the lumber merchant, which, if steadily devoted to the cultivation of the land, would certain- ly be attended with infinitely greater benefit, both in a physical and moral point of view. 266 LOWER CANADA. Very conflicting opinions exist in Canada regard- ing the Inmher-trade, and the subject was frequent- ly discussed at tliis period, from the hite proposal of ministers to lower the duties upon Baltic timber. It is certain that a large circulation is occasioned by the trade, perhaps a million Sterling, in one way or other, and that it employs, during winter, many who may gain perhaps £ 20 for their winter labour, when nothing else could be done. It benefits the farmer too, by bringing a market for produce to his door. So far, all looks well ; but there is no doubt, that those engaged in preparing timber for this trade, being exposed to many hardships, acquire loose and debauched habits, which generally demo- ralize ; and that, in fact, no steady industrious cha- racters are now willing to engage in it. In regard to the merchant, I have reason to believe that the lumber-trade is by no means profitable, and that many merchants are anxious to back out as soon as they can. Tiiere can be no doubt, in any case, that if the trade is to be extinguished, it must be done in a gradual manner, and that any alteration of duties which would suddenly annihilate it, must be follow- ed by very painful and hazardous consequences to the colony. To go minutely into the statistics of even the banks of the river, would far exceed the limits to which I nnist necessarily restrict myself. Suffice it to say, that a constant succession of eligible situa- tions present themselves for estates and farms. I was much pleased with the Matilda district, and con- STATISTICS. 267 sider it capable of great improvement. The soil is a fine mellow sandy loam, sometimes perhaps rather light, but admirably adapted for turnip husbandry and fine woolled sheep, with numerous beautiful si- tuations for a residence, the noble St Lawrence ever forming a prominent feature, its surface varied by lovely wooded islands, similar to those we so justly admire on many of our British lakes. In approach- ing Kingston, or the east end of Lake Ontario, the river Guananogue falls into the St Lawrence, and, at its mouth, is the establishment of Messrs M'Do- nell, two brothers who came about eight years ago to the colony, and who, by steady enterprize, without original capital, have realized considerable wealth, while, along with it, they have secured the respect and esteem of all who know them. They have here, what is called in America, a valuable water privilege or fall, and have erected flour and saw-mills to a large extent. Last season they sent down to Mont- real 24,000 barrels of flour ; and a friend of mine who was their agent, informed me that one of the brothers having resolved upon becoming their own agent in Montreal, it would be a loss of some hun- dreds a year to his house in commission. They have a very clever cooperage worked by water, si- milar to the steam cooperage at Glasgow, and the articles turned out are uncommonly reasonable, sub- stantial, and neat. I regretted much not having it in my power to form an acquaintance with these spi- rited colonists, more especially as they farm likewise to a large extent. The farm at Guananogue extends 268 UPPEK CANADA. to 1200 acres, and the mansion-house and barns are commodious and handsome. Having- received very encouraging accounts at Kingston, of the country along the Bay of Quinte, a deep inlet of Lake Ontario, formed by a peninsula called Prince Edward's Island, I made an excursion into that district. The scenery \vas pleasing, in many places fine; and settlements are formed on every hand. The soil is partly clay, partly loam and sand, suffi- ciently rich, in some instances, to yield fifteen crops of good wheat, with impunity, in a period of twenty years. Granite, limestone, and schistus, or clay- slate, are successively met M-itli. AV'herever a stream or creek of any importance falls into the lake, there we find a mill-seat and a village growing up, the embryo, in many cases, of considerable towns. To the patriot or philanthropist, it is highly grati- fying to remark, how the wants of the farmer and the interests of the trader or mechanic co-operate in the rapid progress of general improvement and civi- lization. Holywell, Sophiaburgh, and Belleville, are all thriving villages of this description ; and many individuals are to be met with in each, who, from the humble situation of merchants' clerks, &c. are rapidly acquiring independence. The last is the county town of Hastings, which has already three churches, a court-house, and projected jail ; a valua- ble mill-power, and fine situation for houses ; the high road from York to Kingston passes through it, and, altogether, it seems destined to become a place of some note. I was really astonished at the PRICE OF LAND. 269 frequent calls which the steam-boat made for pro- duce, and, ere we reached Kingston, our deck was absolutely heaped with flour-barrels. I have said nothing hitherto of the price or value of land in Canada, and it is extremely difficult, in the settled parts of either province, to ascei'tain any thing like a fair average rate. Prices are perpetually fluctuating, and must be re- gulated by the circumstances of the seller ; one man being willing to sell his farm for five dollars an acre, under a strong desire to commence anew upon a forest tract, or labouring under necessity ; while his next neighbour may probably refuse to part with similar land for less than ten or twelve dollars per acre. Of this, however, there is no doubt, that very eligi- ble and advantageous purchases may, at all times, be made by a prudent capitalist, and that land is every year increasing in value, wherever it is desirable to possess it. Great bargains are sometimes obtained at public sales, by warrant of the sherifi^, for pay- ment of land-taxes. Land thus sold is subject, for a certain short period, to be redeemed by the indivi- dual, or his heirs, who originally obtained the grant ; but, as it seldom exceeds, at a sheriff'-sale, 6d. or 7d. per acre, it is well worthy of a trial. Steam navigation may be said to have been creat- ed for America, and it is difficult to estimate the ad- vances which the States and the Canadas will soon make under its influence. To emigrants it not on- ly aff^ords a safe, cheap, and agreeable conveyance ; but, from the large concourse of passengers, a fund 270 UPPER CANADA. of valuable local inforniatioii may alw'ays be pro- cured, and useful acquaintances formed ; wbile it is impossible to overlook tlie silent but important ef- fects, in clearing the forest, which the consumption of fuel on board the steam-boats is destined to ac- complish. Perhaps it is not fanciful to assert, that the woods of America are now actually clearing by means of steam. York, the capital of Upper Canada, and seat of go- vernment, is a very desirable station for a settler to choose as head-quarters, in looking about for a pur- chase. He is sure, at this place, to meet with nume- rous offers of farms, regarding which he will do well to act with caution ; and he will be able to in- spect the plans of public lands in the government land-office, under the superintendence of Mr P. Ro- binson, a gentleman able and willing to afford him every fiicility. The rich and heavi/ land of Upper Canada is not to be found, in general, upon the immediate banks of the lakes and rivers. It lies, for the most part, from twelve to twenty miles back, and thus com- pensates the enterprizing settler for plunging into the forest. Government have still, I believe, about four millions and a half of acres to dispose of, be- sides seven or eight millions more, beyond the lines of what has been surveyed. No land is now grant- ed to individuals without payment, the price vary- ing according to situation and quality, and subject to the regulation of clearing and fencing five acres within two years, erecting a house 16 feet by 20, and also clearing half of the road in front. CANADA COMPANV. 271 Another land-office, highly interesting- to emi- grants, is likewise to be found in York. It is here that the Cominissioners of the Canada Company re- side, and have their principal establishment. This company, as is well known, purchased from govern- ment 2^ millions of acres in the Upper Province, with the view of disposing of it in lots to settlei's, at an advanced price. The company is yet too much in its infancy to speculate upon results ; but no rea- sonable doubt can be entertained, that it must ope- rate favourably in procuring settlers. A great progress has been made in the formation of roads, bridges, mills, &c., which government would not, and private individuals could not, have effected in the short period which has elapsed since the establishment of the company ; and, although a feeling inimical to their measures shewed itself in some quarters, I confess myself unable to discover, for that jealousy, any reasonable cause. I had very full discussions with the Commissioners and agents, from which, as well as from their published pro- posals, I feel satisfied that emigrants of every class may commit themselves to the Canada Company, in perfect assurance of experiencing the most kind, ho- nourable, and liberal treatment. Circumstances de- pendent upon the state of a new country, may delay the execution of plans beyond the promised period; but there can be no doubt of the company fulfilling all their engagements as speedily as possible. The prices of land vary from 7s. 6d. to 15s. per acre. I was much impressed with a favourable opinion of 272 UPPER CANADA. the Great Union tract, from the fact that many steady Dutch settlers, in the possession of old pro- ductive farms near York, were, at the period of my visit, disposing of their property and removing' to Goderich, — a change which tlie calculating J)utcli- man would not have rashly adopted, without pretty reasonable prospects of bettering himself to a consi- derable Jimount. " The township of Goderich con- tains about 400 inhabitants already ; and several Dutch families from the neighbourhood of York, have sold, or are endeavouring to sell, their (culti- vated and valuable farms, and liave purchased lands from tlie company in the Ilnron Tract. About 6000 acres have been sold them in the neighbourhood of Goderich within the last six months. In Guelph, a very valuable mill has lately been erected, and one in Goderich is now in progress." In a young and thinly-settled country such as Ca- nada, every accession of an industrious family or in- dividual tends to the welfare of all ; and it is there- fore natural to suppose, that such a corporation as the Canada Company woidd be fully a«ake to this principle. We find, accordingly, that in forming ar- rangements for forwarding emigrants to their own lands, they b'lve offered very favourable proposals to emigrants at large. Tlmy state, that " all persons depositing L. 20 with the Canada Company's agents in Quebec or Montreal, will be forwarded to the head of Lake Ontario by steam-boats, free of ex- pense, and have liberty to select land in any part of the province, at the current price charged by the CANADA COMPANY. 273 company, when the whole amount of their deposit will be placed to their credit on account of their land. But, should they prefer pui'chasing from in- dividuals and not the company, then the expense of their conveyance will be deducted from the amount deposited, and the balance paid over to them. Per- sons depositing- a sum equal to their conveyance, with their families and luggage, from Quebec to the head of the lake, may avail themselves of the company's contracts with the forwarders ; and should they, within three months after ari-ival, select land in Guelph, and pay one-fifth of the purchase-money, then the amount of their deposit in Quebec will also be placed to their credit, and they, their families, &c. be thus conveyed fi-om Quebec free of expense." 274 UPPER CANADA. CHAPTER II. Head of Lake Ontario — Toronto district — Guelph Township of Waterloo — of Gait — of Paris — Prices of Farm produce. It may perhaps be interesting- to g-ive a few agri- cultural notes of an excursion from York, by tlie bead of Lake Ontario, Toronto, VYaterloo, Dumfries, Ha- milton, &c. : but before leaving the capital, I must, with pleasure, add my humble testimony to the ener- gy, good sense, and patriotism of Sir John Colborne, in his situation as Governor of Upper Canada. Of liis well-known military talents, I am no judge ; but of the soundness of his policy in regard to emigra- tion, allotment of public lands, encouragement of agriculture, and improvement of the general consti- tution of society, I am enabled to speak with un- qualified praise. The experiments hitherto made by government hfive been, in Sir John's opinion, defec- tive in system and concentration. Had the establishment of government emigrants been kept more together, this very circumstance wonld have greatly toiuled to general advancement. At present tliey form only a few oases in the desert, and a long period must necessarily elapse, ere the intervals are even in some degree filled up. In conversing with Sir John, I ventured to sug- gest that something was required on the part of go- EMIGRANTS. 275 vemment, in making preparation for the thousands of emigrants who are pouring into Canada every sea- son, and who suffer heavy losses, both in time and means, from the want of some previous arrangement. It seemed to me, that the agent for emigrants ought to be a gentleman not engaged in trade, but one of active habits, acquainted with rural affairs, and with the agricultural classes, who might be ready at all times to point out land or labour to emigrants, ac- cording to their ability and means. Without going into minute details. Sir John assured me that he felt the want of such an arrangement much, and that a great deal of good might be effected by it, and a great deal of government land sold, and that he had repre- sented the matter to the colonial office at home. Emigrants unable or unwilling to purchase, will have little difficulty in providing themselves with a farm to rent, either for money or on shares, wliich means half the clear produce as rent. I was told by a gentleman of a friend of his, who was very com- fortably settled in this way near York, upon a farm of 200 acres. Eighty acres are cleared, the remain- der in wood pasture. He pays only £25 of rent, and clears £ 200 per annum, besides keeping his fa- mily. . To show how land is advancing in value, this farm, a few years ago, might have been purchased for £200, but is, of course, worth a great deal more now. Market gardening, and rearing good live stock, are two branches that will pay well in this quarter. s 2 27fi UPPER CANADA. I left York, on Wednesday May Uth, in the stage, for Hamilton, at the head of Bnrlington Bay, it being my intention to stop at night, and diverge next day into the woods. The roads were yet un- repaired for the season, and we travelled in an open waggon, the day line, and for the first time some- what sultry. It was interesting to observe the sud- den transition from the streets of York to the so- lemn stillness of the forest, as, I think, we could not liave proceeded above two or three miles, ere we were immersed in all the wild magnificence of a ce- dar swamp, and hemmed in by towering pines and hemlocks on every side. A cedar stoamp forms an exception to a general rule, as it enjoys pure water, and secures health to its inhabitants, which is also the case where the hemlock, fir, and spruce, abound. The land, in such situations, is not of the richest quality, sometimes sandy and poor, and the absence of fever and ague would seem to be granted in com- pensation for diminished returns. Our route lay through Toronto district, and I had the gratification of observing cultivation in every stage of its progress. There was the rude s/ia/it// or log-hut, its owner wielding the axe against the stately vegetable columns around him, or employed in reducing them to ashes, while some were left standing to blacken with the flames, or doomed to a more protracted fate under the operation of girdliriff, by which the bark is cut round the stem, and life destroyed. A little fsirther on we pass an older farm. The mansion and offices commodious and TORONTO DISTRICT. 277 neat, rich orchards loaded with blossom, fine wheat and pasture or meadow-land, healthy looking- chil- dren at every door, with pigs and poultry in abun- dance. As we passed each farmer's open door, we saw groups of old and young seated at their even- ing meal, neat, clean, and comfortably clad. In ge- neral, Canadians and Americans are deficient in what we call dressing up their doors ; they are, in fact, so much engaged in heavier and more important work, that the period for training roses and honeysuckles has not yet arrived. We passed, however, one small property this evening, belonging to a Mr Adams, and laid out as a nursery (smile not at a nursery in America), filled with peach, apple, and pear trees, flowering shrubs, &c., and which, by its neat arrange- ment and excellent order, forms at once a contrast and an example to its neighbours. We encountered some very steep hills and some hazardous road, espe- cially ascending and descending the banks of two considerable creeks or rivers falling into Ontario. Large sums have been expended in levelling, &c. apparently with but indiflFerent judgment or success. I reached Summer's tavern, 35 miles from York, about eight, and found a most obliging host, with comfortable accommodation. It being my intention next day to visit the city of Guelph, founded by Mr Gait, when he acted as com- missioner for the Canada Company, my first inquiry was for saddle-horses and a guide. These were pro- cured by my landlord, and at seven next morning I started, the distance to Guelph being called twenty- 278 UPPKR CANADA. six miles. I sliall not in thin place detail tlie perils of the way, the horrors of rotten corduroy roads, ce- dar swamps, tumdfalls, &c., with the additional com- forts of a misty rain, two roads diverg-ing' in a re- mote part of the forest, and the satisfaction of find- ing, upon an appeal to my guide, that he had never happened to he at Guel]>h before ; suffice it, that I reached my destination about three o'clock, after a most floundering- journey. The road is through the finest forest scenery I had yet seen, and clearings were going forward in various places, and in every state of progress. I could not but admire the luxu- riance and healthy appearance of the wheat and clo- ver. The whole tract is upon limestone, and, in some places, the road passes over ridges of it abso- lutely inexhaustible. The cattle and pigs are but very indifferent. The state of the road may be, in some measure, estimated from a party which I pass- ed, consisting of three men and six oxen, that had been three days absent from home, which they would only reach that day, drawing a load under which u donkey would have trotted upon any British turn- pike, and the whole extent of the journey not ex- ceeding twenty miles. Gu('l])h is situated in the Gore district, about eighty miles from York, and has been laid out upon an extensive scale. A fine stream flows past the town, and a large grist-mill is at M'ork upon it. A good deal of land has been located in the neighbourhctod, and the town may ul- timately prosper. At present it wears a stagnant appearance, and conveys somewhat the idea of the TOWN OF GUELPH. 279 cart preceding the horse. When farms become nume- rous, and a mill is erected in a convenient situation, a town soon grows up ; but here the town has been hurried forward, in the hope of settling the land. A vast deal of capital has been expended upon roads, &c., which must have so far benefited labourers, and tended, in some measure, to enable them to pur- chase lots ; but, at present, a very desolate com- plexion marks Guelph, as a city which may be very thankful to maintain its gTound, and escape deser- tion. The price of company land is here about 15s. per acre, of good quality; and, I believe, from the unsteady character of some of the early settlers, good purchases of farms partially cleared are fre- quently to be had. Guelph stands upon a fine na- tural platform, with the river flowing round it. A good bridge was nearly finished when I was there, and an extensive line of road is intended to con- nect this with the Huron settlement at Goderich. I spent the evening in company with Mr Prior, the acting manager, who has many arduous duties to perform. We conversed, of course, much upon the subject of emigration. His opinion coincides with the general conviction, that no steady indus- trious man can fail to prosper in Canada, according to his means. The Commissioners are now greatly more circumspect in the character of settlers than was the case at first ; and it is a leading object to obtain sober, moral, correct men, that a good neigh- bourhood may be every where secured. This must, 280 UPPEU CANADA. of course, impose a painful and difficult task upon tlie agents, retjuiring- much firmness and discretion. Mr Prior told me, that, durin^• a temporary al>- seuce, a party of a bad stamp had located themselves at Godei'ich. Having satisfied himself of their cha- racter, he sent for a vessel, and almost vi et armis shipped off fourteen families at one sweep. In disposing of lots to settlers, two methods are adopted in Canada, and their respective advantages and disadvantages are warmly discussed. The one adopted by the Canada Company is to insist upon an instalment at entry. The other method is to leave payment of any portion optional to the settler, but carrying on an account of interest against him. The advocates of the first plan maintain, that, by paying down a certain sum at first, the settler feels an intei'est and a degree of independence which he would not otherwise experience, and that the sums advanced enable the landlord to make roads, erect bridges, mills, &c. ; and further, that, as the black account is always running on, and a day of settling must arrive, for which tlie settlers are too often for- getful to provide, it ends in the abandonment of the farm, and in ruin to themselves and families. For the second plan, it is argued, that many industrious worthy men have absolutely no capital to begin with, beyond what may be necessary to purchase oxen, ploughs, &c., and to maintain their families, until a crop be gathered, and that to exact their pittance in such circumstances, is, in fact, to stifle their industry TOWNSHIP OP WATERLOO. 281 in its birth. By allowing' time, and regularly balan- cing the account, taking occasionally what may be forthcoming either in cash, cattle, or grain, a poor man slips into clear possession without feeling any inconvenience. We shall find that, as in most ques- tions of the kind, there is much to be said on both sides, and probably either phm may be followed with advantage in certain particular cases. Tlie United States, who bestow much attention on the disposal of their public lands, have resolved, in the western country, to exact, not an instalment only, but pay- ment in full at the entry of settlers, though it is to be observed, that a man may there acquire 80 acres for 100 dollars, or L.22, 10s. Friday I4th. — Mr Oliver, my landlord at Guelph, having agreed to drive me in his waggon to Mr Dickson's at Gait, a gentleman who purchased from Government a whole township, and to whom I had particular introductions, we started about eleven o'clock, and reached our destination about four. The road was certainly superior to what I had travelled yesterday, though mud holes and rotten corduroy were occasionally to be met with. Limestone was to be seen on every hand in great abundance, and I ob- served, at one place, a kiln hewn out and erected in the very stratum itself. Wherever a clearing oc- curred, the wheat looked beautiful. We passed through the township of Waterloo, settled mostly by Dutch. The soil appeared to be a good, useful, sandy loam, well watered by streams and springs. I was delighted with the cultivation, especially upon 282 UPPKR CANADA. the farms of Sclineidi!!- and Warner. Each farm miglit be from 200 to 300 acres, laid out into reij^uhir fields, and not a stump to he seen. The ploughing was capital, the crops most liixTn-iant, and the cattle, horses, Sec, of a superior stamj), with handsome houses, barns, &c., and orchards promising a rich re- turn. Waterloo satisfied me above all that I had yet seen of the capability of Canada to become a fruitful and fine country. The forest around consists of heavy timber, and the township does not enjoy the advantage of direct water-carriage ; yet have these Dutchmen, within a period of twenty years, produced farms, M-hich, in general aspect, very nearly resemble well cultivated land in Britain. The farmers are primitive and simple-minded, attending to little beyond their own affairs, and so indifferent in regard to politics, that Mr Dickson doubted much if some of them were yet aware of the death of George III. A great deal of capital flowed into this settlement, during the large expenditure at Guelph by the Canada Company, the Dutchmen supplying teams, provisions, Sec. My travelling companion valued some of the fiirras at 25 dollars, about L. G, per acre. Chopping or clearing land, ready for sowing, will cost sometimes 12 dollars, or L.3 per acre; the first return will be 13 or 20 bushels of wheat, worth at present 5s. per bushel. The usual mode of clearing timbered land is to cut down and burn all the wood of one foot diameter, and under that. The larger trees are only girdled. Clearing, in this way, costs about TOWNSHIP OF GALT. 283 8 dollars, or 40s. per acre. When this is done, a crop of wheat can be harrowed in, to be followed by two or three years of pasture or hay, when the plough may be used, and, during which time, the girdled trees are either cut into fencing stuff or burat. No lime has been used as yet upon this land, and I was told of two instances, where farmers had absolutely built new stables and barns, to escape from an accu- midation of despised manure. A few miles before reaching Gait, the residence of Mr Dickson, we came in view of a fine stream, bear- ing the name of Grand River, but of course, quite unconnected with the Uttawas of the lower part of the province. The settlement of Mr Dickson is one of much in- terest, being conducted by himself, on his own re- sources, in the same way as that of Colonel Talbot on the banks of Lake Erie. Mr Dickson began ope- rations in 1815-16, by the purchase from Govern- ment of this township, extending to 96,000 acres, and to which he gave the name of Dumfries. He selected a convenient spot with good water-power, to commence a town, and formed a connection with an enterprising American, who speedily established very extensive mills. Mr Dickson built a commodious re- sidence for himself, in a romantic situation, over- hanging the river, and communicating by a bridge with the mills and town. His plan of dealing with settlers is extremely liberal, as he does not insist upon any instalment being paid down ; and even, in some cases, advances the means of puixhasing oxen. 284 UPPER CANADA, &c. In tliis way, the poorest emigrant, if steady and industrious, must get forward. A regular account is opened with each individual, and partial j)ayments, either in money or produce, accepted by Mr Dickson, from time to time. The price of land is four dollars or 20s. per acre. Farms have been occasionally abandoned by unsteady or impatient individuals ; but some progress in clearing has always been made, and of course, the farm has, in so far, been rendered more valuable. A very con- siderable extent of land has been disposed of, upon both sides of the river, and hundreds of acres of fine wheat are to be seen contiguous to each other. An attempt had been made last spring to convey produce down the river to the Welland Canal, by which' Mr Shade, the owner of the mills, informed me a saving of two-thirds would be effected upon the transports of flour. This voyage was performed by a son of Mr Dickson, accompanied by Mr Shade, and being a navigation of about 100 miles, attended with some hazards, as a first attempt, it created a good deal of sensation at the time of my visit, and much satisfaction among the farmers by its success. Mr Dickson has about 2500 souls upon his estate, and draws a very handsome income from the interest of sales. I visited the mills with Mr Shade, who took much trouble in explaining to me the various machinery. The establishment comprises flour-mills, saw-mills, cooperage, &c., and appeared to me equally extensive and Avell arranged. I have been every where struck with the liavoc and destruction of the TOWNSHIP OF GALT. 285 woods, and had a remarkable opportunity at this place, of contrasting the value of a tree in Upper Canada with what it would have fetched at home. An uncommonly large and beautiful pine was lying at the mill, which I could not estimate at less than L.3 in Britain. Mr Shade, upon my putting the question, told me it just cost him a York shilling, or sevenpence Sterling. Saturday, loth Mag. — iVIr ^Villiam Dickson having kindly insisted upon conveying and accompanying me to Hamilton, where I was to resume the stage, we started, on horseback, after breakfast, and visited various farms upon the township. The road lay along the river, with much fine wood and beautiful scenery. The crops were looking healthy and well coloured. Some farms, partly improved and fenced, with houses, were on sale, — the price demanded was 8 dollars, or 40s. per acre. There seemed to be abundance of water every where, both from springs and brooks falling into the Grand River, and the substratum was still limestone. Some miles below Gait, there is a valuable gypsum quarry on the banks of the river, and it was curious to observe the line of rich and verdant turf, which marked the route of the waggons in their visits to the quarry, from scat- tering as they went along, strongly evincing the eflFect as a top-dressing. We called upon a settler from Scotland, newly entered upon a farm of 100 acres, for which he had paid down L. 1 00. The soil was a good rich sandy loam, worth in Britain 35s. per acre at least of rent. 286 UPPKR CANADA. The forest is here thin, probably not having' more than forty or fifty old oaks upon an acre, and not requiring those to be destroyed, it being quite pos- sible to guide tlu! plough through the intervals. Walter Smith was busy with his pair of oxen, preparing the laud for wheat, of which he expected to have thirty acres sown in autumn, the return from which will probably repay him the price of his farm, and allow him L. .'>0 or L, 60 besides for his labour and maintenance, //•iational boundary Ime which separates it from Canada, west by the Mississippi river, and south by Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio. It is governed by a Governor, and Legislative Council, composed of 13 members : the former is appointed by the Pre- sident of the United States, with the advice and consent of the Senate, and holds his office during their pleasure ; but the lat- ter are elected every two years by the people ; compose one House only, and are allowed to hold two sessions a-year, not ex- ceeding thirty days each. The Territory is represented in Con- gress by a Delegate, chosen once in two years, who is entitled to the same pay as a member of the House of Representatives ; but is not allowed to vote m that body. The expenses of the government of the territory was paid by the United States ; but the town and county charges are defrayed by a direct tax. Population. — It is estimated by the most competent judges, to contain, at present, about 35,000 inhabitants. Its rapid and in- creasing tide of emigration is such, as to induce the belief, that she is shortly destined to be admitted to an equal rank among the political stars which adorn the American constellation. Her present growth and increasing importance, may be measu- rably attributed to the enterprising, active, and energetic talents of her present chief magistrate, Lewis Cass, whose personal exertions and enlightened policy, has not only facilitated its settlement, but tended in a great measure to develope its va- rious resources. That part of the territory immediately border- 318 APPENDIX. ing upon lakes Erie, St Clair, Huron, and their connecting waters, is in general rather level, somewhat deficient in good water, and for the most part heavily timbered. But as you ad- vance in the interior, it becomes gently undulating, until it terminates in rolling, heavy timbered land, of the first quali- ty, interspersed with oak openings, plains, and occasionally prairies. The Plains are frequently covered with such a regular, beau- tiful, and thrifty growth of timber, so free from underbrush, as to wear the aspect of a cultivated forest. They are more easily impro\'ed than the heavy timbered land, and produce full as well. The Openings are often rather deficient in timber, though they are not unfre(|uently skirted with plains, or contain patches of woodland, from which an ample supply may be obtained, not only for fuel, but for buUding, fencing, and all other form- ing purposes, if used with economy. They usually require but little, and sometimes no labour to prepare them for the plough, three or four yoke of cattle are found to be amply sufficient to break them up the first time, after which they are cultivated witli nearly as much ease as old improved lands. They are found to be excellent for wheat, to improve by cultivation, and usual- ly to produce a good crop of corn the first season. The Prairies generally support a heavy growth of grass, are free from timber, and may be divided into two classes. One is called Dry, and the other is denominated Wet, Prairies. The former possess a rich soil, are easily cultivated, and generally yield in rich abundance almost every kind of produce which might be expected to flourish in 42' north latitude, especially those on St Joseph's river. And the latter often prove service- able, not only in affording early pasture, but in sujjplying the emigrant with the means of wintering his cattle ; and may, with a little labour, frecjuently be made to yield an abundant supply of excellent hay. The interior of the territory is well watered with rivers, creeks and small lakes ; many of which contain an unusual quantity of fish. There are several salt- springs, which have not yet been tried nor improved, situate in different parts of the territory, all of which have been reserved by the United States ; but it is not certain that any of them TERRITORY OP MICHIGAN. 319 will prove very valuable ; yet it is more than probable, that by boring a number of feet, the water would improve, and might in some cases at least, not only justify the erection of extensive works for the manufacture of salt, but prove also a source of re- venue to the United States, as well as afford to the manufac- turer, the means of accumulating wealth. The surveyed part of the territory is laid out by the United States into townships of six miles square, which are divided in- to 36 sections or square miles, containing each 640 acres. These are subdivided by imaginary lines, into quarter and half quar- ter sections ; the latter of which contain each 80 acres, is the smallest quantity sold by the United States, and may, as well as the larger tracts, be selected by the purchaser. Though there is a small tract of land which proves rather un- healthy at the mouth of Huron, SaginaAv and Rouge rivers, as well as at the mouth of Brownstown and Swan Creeks, owing to the sluggishness of the water at the outlet of these streams ; yet the climate of the surveyed part of the territory is not on- ly mild but healthy, lying between 41° ZW, and 42° 34' north latitude. The air is salubrious, and the water generally pure and wholesome. The soil, which produces in rich abundance, wheat, rye, barley, oats, peas, beans, Indian com, and potatoes, as well as all kinds of vegetables, usually cultivated in the same latitude, consists of such a variety, that it cannot fail to suit the choice of almost every person in the pursuit of agriculture. Fruit of course, has not yet been tested in the interior, for the want of time, except peaches, which do exceedingly well ; but if I may be permitted to draw an inference, from the quality of the various kinds which grow in great abundance on the French plantations, along the margin of Detroit river, as well as on other parts of the great chain of navigable waters, then I pre- sume I shall be allowed to say, that the soil of Michigan is equal if not superior, for the production of fruit to that of any state in the union. The pear-trees along this river, which were plant- ed in the early settlement, by the French, are'remarkably large, very tall, and extremely thrifty and beautiful ; and bear a most delicious fruit, which generally sells from two to four shillings per bushel. Apples, at Detroit, vary from twelve to fifty cents, and may generally be procured by the bushel, for the latter 320 APPENDIX. price, even in winter. Cider in tlie fall is from one and a half to two dollars per barrel, for the juice. Currants, blackberries, black and red ras])berries and cheiTies, bring from three to four cents per (juart ; though the earliest of these, as well as whortle berries and strawberries, command sixj)ence. Plums are scarce, because they have not been generally cultivated, though they arc likewise found to do well. The emigrants to the territory are mostly enterprising, indus- trious farmers, who from not being allowed to purchase the land on a credit, thereby become immediately the real owners of the soil, and being free from debt, bid fair to become wealthy citi- zens. They are mostly from the western part of New York, though many are from the New England States. Every State contributes more or less, and Ohio, for the last two years, not a few. The price of unsold wild land is fi.xed and uniform, be- ing D. 1. 25 • per acre ; the terms ready money, and the title indisputable, as it comes direct from the United States, under the seal of the President. The richest, most fertile, and per- haps more beautiful part of the territory, is generally thought to be adjacent to the St Joseph's river and its various branches ; which, from present appearances, bids fair to become speedily settled ; settlements began to form on it, a year before it was offered for sale. It only came in market last May, and such has been the influx of emigration to this part of the territory, that the legislature in October last following, formed twelve new counties, mostly thereon, and organized two of tiiat num- ber. This part of the territory possesses several copious mill- streams, particularly Hog Creek, the Dowagiake, Christianna, Pigeon, Crooked and Portage rivers, a few of which have al- ready been improved, by the erection of saw and grist mills — The climate of this ])art of the territory, though mild, is appa- rently more subject to wind than the valley of the Ohio river. The prevailing winds is the south-west, and as it crosses a large tract of prairie country in Illinois and Indiana, comes here with much force, and in winter is somewhat piercing. Consider- able snow falls, nevei'theless it is very favourable to wheat, rye, potatoes, and turnips; and though not very adverse, yet not so congenial as the valley of the Ohio river, to southern com, and * 5s. 7jd. Sterling. TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 321 the more tender grains and esculents. Fruits, of course, have not jet been cultivated here, except a few apples and peaches, by the French, which appear to do well. The Prairies in this quarter are of the richest soil, and may be ploughed in two days after the frost leaves the ground in the spring. They usually produce 30 or 40 bushels of wheat to the acre ; and from 30 to 80 of corn have been raised from the same quantity of ground, in all the prairies that have as yet been occupied : 400 acres of corn were cultivated on Beard- sley's prairie last year, which having been improved the year before averaged 50 to the acre. These prairies not unfrequent- ly produce 30 or 40 bushels of corn to the acre the first season, without being ploughed or hoed after planting. The surveyed part of the territory is divided into two United States' land dis- tricts, containing each one land-ofRce ; one of which is situate at Detroit, the other at St Joseph's. The seat of government for the territory is the city of Detroit. It is pleasantly situa- ted on Detroit river, between Lakes Erie and St Clair, about 25 miles from the former, and 7 from the latter, in latitude 42° 1 8' north, and longitude 6° 10' west from Washington city, con- taining at present about 2500 inhabitants, many of whom are French. It is daily improving, and is destined to be one of the most important ports on the north western frontiers, not only on account of the safety and commodiousness of its harbour, but also in consequence of its extensive inland commercial advantages, as it possesses steam-boat and sloop navigation to Buffalo, Sault de Ste, Marie, Michillimackinac, Green Bay, and Chicago, Public Buildings. — It contains a court-house, jail, academy, council-house, and two banks ; a Presbyterian, an Episcopalian, Methodist, Baptist, and Catholic church ; an arsenal, maga- zine, and commissary store-house. The rivers Grand, St Jo- seph, llaisin, Huron, Clinton, Rouge Kalamazoo, and Shiawas- see, interlockmg in different parts of the territory, not only ir- rigate the country in a beautiful manner, but offer unparalleled inducements for canalling, and with comparatively but little ex. pense, as there would be no mountains, nor probably rock strata, to cut through. It is already in contemplation, by means of the Grand River, and Clinton, or the St Joseph's and Raisin, to open a water communication across the Peninsula, by means X 322 APPENDIX. of a canal, which would tenninate at Detroit or ^fonroe ; and probably at no very distant period, it will not only be under- taken,biit will be accomjjlished in such a manner, as to accommo- date both those places in this respect. A company was incor- porated by an act of the Lejrislature last fall, under the title of the " Summit Portage Canal and lload Company," with a ca- pital of D. 10,000, to be divided into 1000 shares of D. 10 each, for the purpose of cutting a canal west of Lake ^Michigan, to connect the Fox and Ouisconsin rivers, at what is usually term- ed the Portage of the Ouisconsin, and to construct a turnpike road on said Portage, parallel to said canal ; and also to con- struct another turnpike road from the lower extremity of the rapids of the Kaukaunin, on the east side of Fox River, on the most direct and eligible route, to Winnebago lake, and for the erection of piers, wharfs, warehouses, and other j)ublic build- ings and improvements, in and about said canal and turnpike, for commercial purposes. ^Michigan extends at present west to the Mississippi river ; but it is expected the territory will shortly be divided, and a new ten-itory set otf west of Lake Michigan, and organized by the name of Ouisconsin or Huron. — This territory was originally owned and occupied by emigrants fi'om France, consequently the old inhabitants or first settlers are mostly French. V/ayne Couvty contains about 7^00 inhabitants, many of whom are French. Its seat of justice is Detroit. Hamtranck, Detroit, and Springwells. These towns, which lie in the north- east part of the county, border on Detroit river, and are rather level, and but poorly supplied with water. The northern part of the two latter is somewhat broken by marsh and wet jirairie ; but near the centre of Springwells is a tract, containing some ex- cellent arable land not yet entered, lying within from 6 to 10 miles of Detroit, where a new settlement has recently been form- ed, and through whidi a road has lately been ojiened, leading from Detroit to Farmington. The towns of Pekin, Nankin, and Plymouth, are well supplied with water by the River llouge and its various branches, which atfbrd several eligible mill sites, and which have already been advantageously improved b}- the erec- tion thereon of saw and grist mills. Pekin is heavily timber- TERRITORY OP MICHIGAN. 323 eJ with white and black ash, white and black oak, beech, maple, and sugar tree. The land is rolling, and the soil rich and fer- tile, consisting of sand, loam, and some clay. The northern and southern part of the town of Nankin has much the same appear- ance as Pekin, though the soil is more sandy, and requires less labour to cultivate it ; yet it yields quite as well, but the mid- dle is plains and openings, of an inferior quality of soil. Ply- mouth has likewise a similar appearance to Pekin, though the northern part is more rolling, yet even here the timber is the same, with the addition of black walnut ; but the soil is general- ly of a superior quality. Huron. — This town is watered by a delightsome river, of the same name, whose waters are very transparent and abound with fish. It runs through the town diagonally, exhibiting in many places rich bottomed lands, often bounded on one or both sides by high sloping banks, and not unfrequently skirted with beau- tiful plains. Though a great portion of this township is rather destitute of running streams, yet the soil in general is fertile, and for the most part easily cultivated. The eastern part is oak openings, and plains of a good quality, mterspersed with groves of heavy timber, which often contain a small black ash swamp, and sometimes a wet or dry prairie ; but the south part is ge- nerally heavily tmibered with white and black ash, Avhite oak, beech, and maple, with occasionally a white wood. The south- west corner is low land, and contains a large wet prairie. Broumstown is watered by the Huron River, Muddy and Brownstown Creeks. The north-western part of this town is but poorly watered, and exhibits alternately oak openings, plains and prairies, occasionally interspersed with groves of heavy tim- ber. The south-eastern part is rather level and heavily timber- ed, except small tracts at the mouths of the Huron lliver and Brownstown Creek, which consist of prairies that are more or less inundated with water. Moiitgnagon — This town embraces Gross' Isle, and is situate on Detroit river. It is gently undulating, possesses a fine quar- ry of limestone, and a rich soil, supporting a thrifty and heavy growth of white oak, hickory, beech, maple, white and black ash. MaNROE County contains a popv.lation of about 4000, x2 324 APPENDIX. many of whom arc French. There are three villages in this county, namely, jMonroe, Frenchtown, and Port Lawrence. Tlie first of these, which is tlie Scat of Justice for the county, is a flourishintr village, situate on the Uiver JJaisiii, about six miles from Lake Erie, and thirty-six south from Detroit. The United States' turnj)ike, from the latter place to the Ohio State line, passes through it, and here was situated the bank of Monroe. It possesses an ample supjjly of water-power for pro- pelling hydraulic machinery, a part of which has already been converted to the use of saw and grist mills, as well as to the use of macliines for cardinelonging to the United States. This river is the largest stream that waters the west part of the peninsula of Michigan, being liTO miles in length, its wind- ings included, and navigable 240 miles for batteaux ; re- ceiving in its course a great number of tributary streams, among which are Portage, Ued-Cedar, Looking glass, Soft- Maple, Muscota, Flat, Rouge, and Thorn-Apple rivers. All of these, except the last named, put in on the right bank of the Grand River. Its south branch rises in the open country, near the sources of the Raisin, and, after pursuing a winding course of thirty miles, meets with the Portage River, which comes in from the east, and intersects the above branch in town, two south of range one west. Portage River, which has its course through a chain of low marshy prairies, is a deep muddy stream, about fifteen yards wide at its mouth. Its branches interlock with those of the Huron of Lake Erie, and the Indians pass from the former into the latter, with their canoes, by crossing a portage of one mile and a half It is ])robable, that, at no distant period, a canal will be constructed near the route of these two rivers, so as to afford a safe and easy inland communication between Lakes Erie and Michigan. The distance from Detroit to the mouth of Grand River, by way of INIichilimackinac, is 560 miles. This route in the spring and fall is attended with much uncertainty ; and, in case of a war with the English, the navigation of the Straits of Detroit and St Clair would be rendered doubly dan- gerous. These difficulties would be obviated by a connnunica- tion by water through the interior. The land at the Portage rises 40 or nO feet above the level of the streams on each side ; but a level prairie, two or three miles to the west of that place, is said to extend from one river to the other. TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 337 From the junction of the Portage and south branches, this river pursues a north-west course till it meets with Soft-Maple River, m town seven north of range six west ; receiving, in that distance, Red-Cedar and Looking-glass Rivers from the east, and Grindstone, Red and Sebewa Creeks from the south and south-west. Grindstone Creek, so named from a sandstone ledge througii which it runs, empties into the river about 20 miles below the mouth of the Portage branch. It is 20 miles long, afford- ing several good sites for mills, and runs mostly through an open beautiful country ; but is in some instances skirted with bottoms of heavy timbered land. From the mouth of this creek to that of Looking-glass River, a distance of 45 miles in a direct line, the Grand River rims through a tract of timbered land, which is several miles in ex- tent on each side, abounding in creeks and springs of excellent water, and bearing a growth of maple, basswood, cherry, oak, ash, white wood, elm, black walnut, butternut, and some other kinds in lesser quantities. Below Looking-glass River, for 40 or 50 miles, tracts of open land are found along the banks, but extensive forests immediately in the rear. The river bottoms are from a quarter of a mile to one mile in width, and the tim- ber-lands are covered with a rank growth of rushes (Er/uiseHim hyemale)^ on which the Indians keep their horses during tlie winter. It is found that cattle and horses do better on thesf rushes than when kept on hay ; and it would seem, from their abundance, that nature here intended them as a substitute for that article. The surface of the land, after leaving the river bottoms, is rolling ; and it rises sufficiently high to give rapidi- ty to the numerous creeks that so abundantly irrigate this part of the country. Red-Cedar river is 35 yards wide, and puts in about mid- way between Grindstone Creek and Looking-glass River. It rises in Whastenaw and Shiawassee counties, and can be ascend- ed in small boats 25 or 30 miles. A few miles below the mouth of this stream is a ledge of sandstone, which Ibnns a perpendicular waU of 25 or 30 feet in height on each side of the river. This ledge consists of square blocks of stone of a suitable size to be used in building, and which are renderetl 338 APPENDIX. more valuable, from the circumstance of their being on the banks of a large navigable river, which, witli its tributaries, will facilitate its transportation to various sections of the territory. A bed of iron-ore has been discovered in the north-east bank of the river, immediately below this ledge; and, indeed, many of the stones in the lower part of the ledge have a great resem- blance to blocks of cast iron, — presenting a rusty surface very dense, and, when broken, have, in a striking degree, the colour and aj)pearance of iron itself. Four miles above the mouth of the Looking-glass River is the village of P'Shimnacon (Apple Land), Avhich is inhabited by eight or ten Ottawa families, who have a number of enclos- ed fields, in which they raise corn, potatoes, and other vegeta- bles usually cultivated by the Indians. The village receives its name from the Pyrus coronaria (Crab Apple) which grows in gi-eat abundance on the rich bottoms of the vicinity. Sebe- wa Creek puts into the river on the south-west side one mile above this village. It is about 20 miles long, sufliciently large for mills, and, for the last four miles, is very rapid, with a hard stony bottom. liOoking-glass River, which is about 40 yards wide, rises in Shiawassee county, and can be ascended in canoes almost to its source. The country near this river, for 15 miles above its mouth, is what may be tenned tirst-rate timbered land ; but, above that point, it is of an inferior quality, more open, and abounding in tamerac swamps and wet prairies. It is about eight miles b\' land from the mouth of Looking- glass to that of Soft-JNIaple River, which is about 60 yards wide at its entrance into Grand River. It heads in Shiawassee and Saginaw counties, and runs nearly a due west course until it unites with (irand River at the Indian village of Chigau- mishkene. This village consists of 25 houses, and has a ))o])ulation of near 201) souls under the noted chief Cocoose. Here is about 1000 acres of bottom land, of a deep black soil, that has been cleared by the Indians, a part of which they still occupy as planting grovmd ; but the land at this village, as well as that at P'Shimnacon, has been ceded to the United States, and will, no doubt, in a short time, be occupied b}' an industrious white population. There is a large trail leading TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 339 fi'om this village, hy way of Sliiawassee to Detroit, a distance of 130 miles. The Grand River here changes its course ; and, with the exception of twelve miles in length, below Rouge River, runs nearly a west course, to Lake Michigan. Two miles farther down, is the entrance of Muscota River (River of the Plains), which comes in from the north with a rapid current, and is about 40 feet wide. The country through which it runs is but little known, as no lands have been surveyed north of Grand River, below Soft-Maple. It is eighteen miles by land from the mouth of Muscota to that of Co-cob-au-gwosh, or Plat River, with several consider- able creeks putting into Grand River, on each side, in the inter- mediate distance. Ke-wa-goosh-cum's Indian village is situate immediately below the mouth of Flat River, and consists of 16 lodges. It is supposed that the line between the United States and the Indian lands will intersect the Grand River near this place. Flat River is a shallow stream, about 8 roods wide ; and, in ascending, has a general course of north by north-east. Of the country along this river, but little is at present known. It is reported, however, to be of a hilly broken aspect, and many places near its source to abound in lakes and swamps. There is a small lake that discharges its waters into this river, about CO miles above its mouth, in which it is said by the Indians that white fish are found in great numbers, — a circumstance that is rendered more extraordinary, from the fact, that this fish has never been seen near the mouth of Grand River; although it is often taken near the entrances of most of the other tributai-ies of Lake ^Michigan. It is 10 miles from Flat to Thorn-Apple River, which comes in from the south, and, with its numerous tributaries, waters a large extent of country. Its main branch rises in towns two and three north of range three west, and, after running a wes- terly course for more than 40 miles, it takes a northward direc- tion, in which it continues until it empties into Grand River, in the south part of town seven north of range two west. There is a suitable proportion both of open and timber land along this stream, and a great part of each kind may be termed y2 340 APl'KNDIX. first rate. Two Indian villages are situated at the distance of 20 and 2(i miles up tiiis river, and another at its inouth, under the Ottawa chief Nong-gee. The last mentioned village is in- hahited by twelve or fourteen families, who are, by far, the most industrious and respectable band that reside in that i)art of the country. llouge Iliver is 20 miles, including the meanderings, north- west of Thorn-Apple Iliver. It is about 40 miles long, rising near the sources of the ISIaskegon, and has its banks shaded by lofty forests of white pine. From this place to Muck-a-ta-sha's village, a distance of 12 miles, the Grand Iliver pursues a south direction, after which it runs nearly a due west course to Lake Michigan. Six miles above the mouth of the last mentioned inlet, is a rapid of 1 mile in length, where the river, which is here 52 roods wide, is supjjosed to full 25 feet. The banks at the head of the rapid are not more than 4 feet above the level of the river, and they keep a horizontal level until you arrive at the foot of the rapid, where they are nearly 30 feet al)ove the water ; and, consequently, ati'ord convenient opportunities for profitably appropriating a part of the river, by means of a canal or sluice, to the use of mills or machinery. There is a Missionary establishment at (the Thomas station) this place, under the superintendence of the Rev. Isaac M'Coy, who also has the care of the Carey station on the St Joseph's. The jNIission family at present consists of a school teacher, a blacksmith, and two or three agriculturists. The school was opened in the winter of 1827, and now has about 30 Indian children, who receive their board, clothing, and tuition, at the expense of the establishment. There is a trail leading south-west from the rapids to the Kalamazoo Iliver, and thence to the llivers llaisin and Huron. Another leads directly to the moutli of Thorn-Apple River, a distance of only 10 miles on the trail, but 25 round the curve of the river. The country, within this bend, except- ing immediately along the river, is of a rough hilly character, a great part consisting of oak o]jenings of a barren apj)earance, with a few scattering groves of white pine. Most of the land, however, in the neighbourhood of this tract, is of a good qua. TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 341 lity, and timbered with all kinds that usually grow on rich al- luvial soils. There is a salt spring, 4 miles below the rapids, which rises out of the ground about half a mile from the river on the east side. The water is said to be, both as to quantity and quality, sufficient to warrant the establishment of works for the manu- facturing of that useful article. Near this place is also a bed of gypsum, of a fine quality, which will, probably, in time, be of great importance to agriculturists in many of the western parts of Michigan. Muck-a-ta-sha, or Blackskin's village, is 6 miles below the rapids, and is situate near the bend of the river, on an elevated prairie. There is another village 20 miles lower down the river. From the rapids to the lake, a distance of 36 miles, the river is no where less than 4 feet deep. The current at the former place is too powerful to be ascended with loaded boats. The country along the river, for the first 15 or 20 miles, above the lake, is generally level, and in many instances swampy, with lofty forests of various kinds of timber, and bear- ing an almost impenetrable thicket of under-growth. The country, watered by the Grand River, consists of be- tween 6000 and 7000 square miles ; and, considering its central position in the territory, — the general fertility of the soil on the several branches of the stream,— the convenience of a good and safe harbour at its mouth, together with its many other im- portant natural advantages, — we may be fully justified in the opinion, that it will, at no very distant period, become one of the most important sections of Michigan. No. II. NOTE REGARDING PAUPERISM IN ENGLAND, WITH S03iE SUGGESTIONS UPON EMIGRATION. In the present alarming state of Pauperism, where it ap- pears, from Parliamentary Returns, that the amount of poor- rates collected in England and Wales in 1831, was L. 8,11 1,422, 342 APPENIJIX. being an increase of 8 per cent, on the preceding year, some remedial measure must be forthwith attempted ; and, although it may not at once prove a cure, emigration, it is sul)mitted, holds out, at least, a fair promise of alleviation. This political measure has been powerfully advocated, and no less strenuous- ly reprobated, by men of talent, philantliropy, and worth. While one assures us, that, by opening a channel for surplus population, the only result would be to feed the disease ; the other party makes a powerful ajjpeal to humanity and to sound policy, in behalf of what must, in their view, augment the sum of human happiness, and add to the strength and resources of the State. England has been brouglit into her present dilemma from the abuse of her system of jjoor-laws. To provide for the really destitute is an obligation coeval with, and probably in- herent in, the social compact. AN'lu'n this salutary principle, however, degenerates into a claim for support by h^'althy able- bodied men, with teeming spouses and broods of children, it be- comes a nioi'al and a jjhysical evil of an aj)palling description, and is fraught with the most alarming consequences where it is recognised as the law of the land. Taking it, as admitted, that many parishes of England are sinking under this burden, and having in our remembrance the millions of rich and vacant acres which our colonies present, it mei'its serious inquiry, whether the capabilities of the one may not be made subservient to the necessities and means of the other, in a way productive of advantage to both. It is here unnecessary to designate (what may be a fair mat- ter of choice) which of our colonies shall be preferred ; let us assume that Upper Canada has been selected. The primary object in every scheme of emigration should be, to j)lace the emigrant on his new home, in the circumstances most readily and permanently conducive to his own jirospcrity and to the common weal. It may be doubted whether this has, in most cases, received due attention, and hence the failure of many a plan. An impcn-tant link would seem to have been hither- to awanting in the chain of emigration. An active and steady superintendence in the colonies to j)ave the way for emigrants is still a desideratum, by which those scenes of misery and dis- PAUPERISM IN ENGLAND. 343 appointment, so frequently occurring, might be materially di- minished or checked. The benefits derived from the present system of emigrant- agency at the entry ports, would be essentially increased in various ways, by such a superintendency as is here contempla- ted. The demand for labourers and servants throughout the provinces would be more correctly and systematically ascer- tained. Locations suited to existing circumstances would be selected and provided, either upon government lands or else- where, for parties of parish emigrants, as they might be requir- ed ; and as parishes would benefit equally as government from the services of such an individual, the expense incurred would fall to be mutually adjusted. If a permanent and organized system of this nature should be carried into effect, the following ought to be the natural re- sults. On the one hand, Government would secure a market among mir own subjects for a large extent of land now absolutely unprodtcctwe, adding thereby both to the strength and wealth of the colony, and augmenting the general resources of the State. Besides which, very considerable sums would flow directly into the Exchequer from the sale of the lands. On the other hand, the parishes would shake off a burden, which may be fair- ly enough said to perpetuate itself, and that at a cost (as will be presently shown) far short of bare subsistence to the pau- pers at home for a very limited period. It seems to have been sufficiently established, by Parliamentary inquiry, that every pauper, having a wife and three childi-en under ten years of age, wiU require an extra allowance of 8s. per week, over and above what the overseers can make by hiring out their labour. L. 20 Sterling, therefore, is a moderate computation of the annual expense to be incurred on account of each such family, for subsistence alone, Avithout reference to the many ex- pensive items of contested settlements, medical aid, &c., which figure in every parish rate. Let us now endeavour to estimate the probable expense of removing (say) fifty such families, and establishing them com- fortably in Upper Canada, including the purchase of 50 acres to each family, and maintenance for 60 days after reaching their destination. 344 APPENDIX. Freifiht of l(iO adults fromEneland to Montreal, at I-. 3, 10s. c?ach, L. 3.'>0 Do. of ITHi children at L. 1, l.')S. each, .... i'G2 10 0 to 100 per cent, cheaper than in New York, or most otlier cities. Mechanics connected with l)uilding, will find it their inte- rest to acquire a residence at the proposed city. The city will aft'ord a most agreeable permanent residence for respectable faiiiilles with limited incomes, as all the neces- saries, and the chief luxuries, of life are remarkably cheap, where good schools will be formed, and the best society met, without the expense of entertaining them. While at the same time, it will prove a residence admirably adapted for placing children in the way of earning their own independence, either in the United States or Canada. A cliarter will be ajjplied for, so that aliens may hold real estate in the city. PaOPRlETOKS. The Hon. "W. Allan, President of the Bank of Upper Canada. James Buclianan, Esq., His Majesty's Consul, New York. The Hon. Thos. Clarke. The Hon. J. H. Dunn, Receiver- General. Thos. Dixon, Esq., President of the Society of St George, New York. Lieut. General Murray, of the British Anny. James Robinson, Esq. Samuel Street, Esq. The survey, it is expected, will be completed by 1st August, and an agent will attend to give all necessary information. N. B. General Murray, with a view to these arrangements, has already fixed his residence at the New City, and several gentlemen contemplate building. Mr Forsyth retains the Pavilion, &c., until December next. ( 3G3 ) No. VI. MR ROBERTSON'S NOTES. It is with much pleasure that I am enabled to confirm the accounts given of Canada and the States, by various communi- cations ; and among others, by the shrewd remarks of an intelli- gent farmer, near Edinburgh, who crossed the Atlantic in 1 830, and of which I shall oHer a short abstract. This individual has thoughts of emigrating, and prudently resolved, in the first place, to view the land of promise, ere he finally determined upon so important a step. Mr Robertson sailed from Greenock in the latter end of April 1*830 for New York, where he landed on the 14th June, and expresses himself greatly surprized at the grandeur of the shops and private mansions, competing, as he quaintly observes, " even with Edinburgh itself,"' " and the masses of shipping from aU quarters of the globe, was in reality a won- derful sight." His fellow passengers were quickly absorbed in the busy population of the city, and he established himself in a re- spectable boarding house at 13/(i per week. The season had be- come warm, and the heat sometimes oppressed our honest Scotchman. The number of common carters employed by the merchants filled him with surprise. The carts were all ticketed, and he noticed upon one a number considerably exceeding 2000. The elegance and cleanliness of the hackney coaches, and the quality of the horses, appear likewise to have particularly at- tracted his attention. While in New York, the anniversary of American Independence came round (4th July), a day of much gaiety and martial display. The discipline of the American troops does not seem to have impressed our traveller with much admiration ; but he justly opposes to their irregularity, the im- portant advantage " that they have no money to raise from the people to uphold such a mass of men doing nothing in time of peace but creating debt, for they have little or no debt, and of course few or no taxes, as I have known them in Scotland, ^yhere no sooneris the one taxgatherer out, than you may be sure another will come in, so much so, that your hand is never out of 364 APPENDIX. your pocket a moment ; and if you have no money, your effects are sure to go for it. Indeed, tliere is more money raised for the city cess in Kdinburgh, than there is of all manner of taxes in the city of New York." Fnnn New York IVIr Robertson proceeded to Washington by rhiladelphia and Baltimore, delighted with the splendid steam-boats and with both of these cities. When at Washing- ton, he visited a Scotch settler in Virghiia, who owned a gang of 150 slaves. This man landed at New York in liUO witli only 40s. He conunenced as a packman, and by steady and frugal industry, had now acquired in property 1000 acres of land, 150 Negroes, 1(> pairs of horses, &c. Tobacco was his staple production. He offered ]\Ir Robertson a situation as manager, which was declined. Having returned to Baltimore, he proceeded across the Alleghany ^Mountains for Pittsburgh, in the stage ; the distance 250 miles, fare 1 dollars, or I.. :i : 12 -. 0. An option was given to him of stopping by the way, and pro- ceeding on the following day, when so inclined. Wheat har- vest had commenced (Kith July), and Mr Robertson notices the cradling or cutting with the scythe, and states the daily work of a man at 2.^ acres. Each cradler has a man to bind, and a man witli a rake is attached to every two cradlers. Hence if we take the wages of a cradler at 2 dollars or 9s. per day, those of a binder at 4/6, and the half of a raker's wages at same rate, = 2/3, tlie expense per acre, supposing 2^ acres to be cut, will be C/fi per acre. Chambersburgh and the adjoining coun- try greatly jjleased Mr Robertson. It reminded liim much ot the Lothians in regard to fertility. He was kindly treated at a farmer's, where he resolved to stop a day and look at a proper- ty for sale, belonging to a Caj)tain "NI'Dougal. This was in Franklin county, Pennsylvania. Tlie soil was rich, and the wheat crop particularly fine. The farm contained 220 acres, of which 140 were in culture, the remainder in wood. It possessed an excellent brick dwelling-house, two bams, stabling, iScc. and the price demanded was 40 dollars or li. 9 per acre, a j)rlce which, in so fine a district, with a canal about to be cut through it, could not ])c deemed out of the way. The country abounds with lime, but which has never yet been brought into use. The wild and romantic scenery of the Alleghany Mountains greatly MR Robertson's notes. 365 delighted ]Mr Robertson, and he was surprized to find the soil upon the summit equally rich as in the valley below. The coun- ty town of Bradford, and the valley in which it stands, he pro- nounces to be one of the most delightful spots he had ever seen, and not the less so, that it bore a strong resemblance to his own native glens. At Bloodyrun he found a pass in the mountains, the very prototype of Killiecrankie itself. About 5 miles from Pittsburgh, Mr Robertson examined a farm with numerous buildings, then on sale- Its owner, a Mr Peebles, had made his fortune upon it, and was about to retire. The fanii containetl 190 acres of good land, forty of these were under wood, twelve ill excellent meadow, and the remainder in cleared arable land. It had a fine brick mansion, good stables, &c. two stUl houses, and two large orchards. The price asked was 40 dollars, but might probably have been bought for less. This district abounds in coal, which is dug from the hiU sides, and appears wherever the road has been cut along the banks. The bustle of Pittsburgh, with its iron foundries, glass and cotton works, &c. at a distance of 2500 miles fi-om the sea, greatly impressed our traveller with a sense of enterprize and resources of the States. B'rom Pittsburgh he made an excur- sion, which occupied him 15 days. During this period he visit- ed Cincinnati, Wheeling, and St Louis. He examined the capabilities of Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, INIissouri, and part of Kentucky, of course in a rather cursory way, but suflSciently to satisfy himself with the favourable aspect of them all : the cli- mate for his constitution he considered too warm, at least at this season; but the productiveness of'the soil appeared to be all that man could desire. In Ohio he visited a thriving settlement of Scotch emigrants, where he was received with the kindness of a brother. From Pittsburgh he directed his course towards the banks of Lake Erie. The route lay through much fine scenery, and the weather soon became sensibly more cool, and the appear- ance of the people more healthy. The country is but thinly set- tled. It abounds with lime and coals, and the crops are very good. A road is now making to the Alleghany river, which wiU open a comminiication with Pittsburgh, and greatly enhance the value of property here. Land may be purchased hereabouts, from two tO'ten dollars per acre. The farm of a Mr Campbell, lately de. 366 APPENDIX. ceased, was now in the market. It contained a good dwelling- house, barn and other buildings, with two copper-stills and a never-failing run of pure water. The price asked was fourteen dollars per acre. The town of F.rie is on the southern bank, 90 miles from BuHiilo. Like all the respectable natives of Scot- land, Mr Robertson paid everywhere much attention to the means of religious instruction. He was much pleased with an Indian villaae which he visited on a Sabbath, near Erie. He savs, " The minister was a Presbyterian ; and I was not a little astonished at finding them so respectable, and so attentive on the worship of God. The minister was a good preacher, and they seemed to be not a little affected with his sermon. I do think that they would really aiiront many who have better op- portunities, and wlio pretend to more." Having stopt a day at Buffalo, which he reached by the steam-boat from Erie, he entered Canada at Blackrock, and pro- ceeded to the Falls, which seem to have impressed him with all those feelings of admiration and of awe natural to a reflecting mind on viewin!!. '■ many MR Robertson's notes. 367 of my countrymen here, and amongst them a friend of my own, all in a thriving way. I saw in this place as good wheat, with^ out ploughing, or I may say harrowing, as I ever saw in Scot- land, with the best farmers, and with all their manoeuvres, and how this comes about must be now explained. They cut the wood in the fall of the year, or perhaps in the winter time, and their cattle feed on the crops of the trees as thev fell them down. The cattle like this better than any other fodder, and this is of gi-eat use to a beginner, as he is often without means of procuring other fodder for the few beasts he may possess. The brushwood and logs being dragged together by his steers, are burnt. The ashes he sells to the manufacturers of potash. The stumps are generaU}^ left so high, that you would think at a distance they were so many men standing among the corn. This being done, the next fall he sows his wheat among the stumps, without ploughing or digging, but applies his steers and a haiTow, and covers his seed as well as he can ; and wonderful in the eyes of an old country man, as I was, he has, after this rough manner of husbandry, wheat that I am sure produces from eight to ten bolls (four or five quarters) per acre, and that is what 1 have seen with my own eyes. These stumps thus left are very troublesome, till he gets them out, which cannot be easily done. Hard-wood stumps require eight or ten years to rot, and those of pine considerably more. This is the common way of going to work with the inhabitants of this wooden coun- try. When a man comes out without means, which is too com- monly the case, for it is natural for every man to like to be a farmer, and especially to be a laird, if he has as much as will buy him one or two hundred acres, he immediately buys his land, and perhaps leaves himself without a penny behind. He then builds a log-house, and perhaps a log- barn, byre, &c. thus sitting down without any thing but what he has put out on his land. A\^ithout the means of subsistence, he is eighteen months at least on his farm before he gets any of the produce of his la- bour, but is creating debt upon his head ; and even in the se- cond year he has but little return, so that he is still creating debt, and is perhaps under the necessity of mortgaging his farm before he gets through this strait ; so that if you were to see men in this position durinj^ the first few years, vou would be 368 APPENDIX. ready to call them a thousand fools for ever coming to America ; and a man would i)crhaj).s call liiniself so, with his neck in the yoke every day, with nothing hut this fann, or rather, as he thinks it, this name of a farm, looking at the rougliness of the work, and the little progress he has made, with perhaps more debt ujion it than its worth, and his livelihood as yet very in- ditterent. W'iien he goes, however, to his next neighbour's house, and sees him, if he has been ten years in his farm, with plenty of every thing that he needs, his farm well cultivated, and no debt, knowing that he was in the same position formerly tliat he is in now, this cheers him up, and when he sees himself still making a little progress, it encourages him, and makes him bear the burden cheerfully. If you should come to the same man's house five or eight years afterwards, and see him in a fine frame-house, with a frame-bam, stables and byres, cattle and riheep, and all manner of poultry, horses and his gig for everv foot he would travel, you would not think this was the same man, or the same farm, the face of things is so much changed ; and when you sit down at his table, with nothing on it but his own produce, you would be apt to think that this is surely a tine country that furnishes these well plenished tables ; and in- deed so it is, but not for idlers, but industry and hard labour only can secure these things, so that the bitter comes before the sweet. " There is another class that comes to this country, without any means, but barely what brings them to it. They ajjjjly to Government for grants of land, and they do get it, (this lias ceased as respects common settlers) ; but they must take their land where Government sees fit to appoint, for you know beg- gars must not be chusers. Whatever the society may be where their lot is, there they must fix, and what is worse, is tlie ex- pense of making out the|r title, as the officers contrive to make them perhaps as high as a purchase, giving them credit, and of I'ourse, when their time comes, if unable to pay, their land is sold to the highest bidder. The taxes also help to this, for al- though small, they may come to more in this period than the peo])le can manage, and thus they may lose all tlieir labour. Between such persons, and those who fall back from other causes, improved farms, both here and in the States, are always MR UOBERTSOn's NOTES. 369 on sale ; besides, there are men who buy land for the express purpose of improving and selling to profit. This is a regular trade aU over America ; so that no man with capital, need be airaid of getting farms of this kind in any part of the country ; this I know by experience. There is another class still that comes to this country, and that is labourers, both men and wo- men, that think when they ai*e here, they may get what they please to ask, and not only so, but that Jack is as good as his employer, if not better ; and we all know that when the servant is above his master, or as high, things will not do long that way, and therefore every one avoids them, when they can do better. Engagements are all by the month, and this I think against both master and servant. Against the master, for he has no constant serA'ant ; and against the servant, for he is perpetually changing, losing his time, and spending his earnings. And now, a per- son may naturally ask, what would you wish me to do, after you have seen so much of both British America and the States, and which do you prefer ? In answer to these questions I would advise all who have a family, and whose capital is about L. 100 clear of their passage out, and who are industrious and willing to submit to such hardships as I have described, to such I would say, the exchange will be favourable, and they will cer- tainly reap the benefit in their old age. Also I would advise the industrious labouring people, who are sober, to come to this country, for they wiU. surely change to the better, both men and women, if they have as much as will carry them out. Smiths will always find a ready market in this country ; their wages are so high, that many horses go unshod solely on ac- count of the expense. A smith willing to work on more mo- derate terms, would get double employ. Tailors and shoe- makers, millwrights and millers, masons and carpenters, have all good business in this country, and the farther into the inte- rior the better. As to which of the places to prefer, British America or the States, / would decidedly go to Upper Canada, as the best place I have seen in all my travels, both for produce and for a market. Wheat was selling in the remotest corner of Upper Canada for a dollar per bushel ; while in Ohio, &c. it was only about one half. The country bears all the crops which can be raised in the States (cotton excepted), with this material difFer- A a 370 APPENDIX. ence, th at the climate is better, and the people more healths, which, in my opinion, ought surely to be looked to, as much as any thing. Tiie taxes are as moderate, if not more so, than in tlie States ; so that this is my opinion and my advice to any one that likes to take it." Mr Robertson proceeded down the St I^awrence to Quebec, pleased with the Upper, but not so nmch so with what came under his view in the Lower, Province, as an agricultural dis- trict. From Quebec he sailed to I'ictou and Halitax, with many poi'tions of the country near which towns, as also with some other parts of these settlements, he was agreeably sur- prized. For emigrants accustomed to fishing and maritime pursuits, they certainly liold out especial encouragement. Air Robertson returned to New York by Roston, and accomj)lished his voyage home in safety and comfort, atibrding a good example of energy and j)rudence to all who contemplate emigration, and who, by confiding in the report of some qualified jierson selected by a few families of the same neighbourhood or district, will be enabled to form a plan of operation essentially conducive to their ultimate success. No. VII. [ The following may prove interesting, as exhibiting the ofgevts of Agricultural atteiition in Lower Canada.'] AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF QUEBEC. PATUOX. His Excellency Matiiew Lord Aylmer, Governor-in-Chief. District Exhibition on Wednesday before Easter, \8th April 18IJ2. The following premiums will be awarded on tlie Upper Town market-place on Wednesday K'th April 1832, at 10 in the forenoon. The samjdes and certificates must l)e deliver- ed to F. X. VaiUancourt, Notary, Assistant- Secretary, as early as the 29th March. AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF QUEBKC 371 Premiums for Grain. Dols- 1. To the person who shall have reaped after a root crop or other drill crop, the greatest weight and the best quali- ty of wheat per arpent, on at least 2 arpents, .... 1 2 2. For the second greatest weight on 1 arpent, ... (J 3. To the person who shall have reaped after a drill crop, the greatest weight per arpent of clean barley, on at least 2 arpents, fi 4. For the next greatest weight on at least 1 arpent, . 4 " It may be remarked, that drill crops are more advan- tageous than grain crops, as the land whi^h has been sub- mitted to them the year preceding has been better ma- nured, that the ground has been better opened by the fre- quent ploughings which it is found necessary to make, and that more care has been taken to destroy bad weeds by fre- quently repeated weedings." 5. To the farmer who shall sow the greatest extent of land with wheat selected seed by seed, and who shall reap the greatest weight of the best quality per arpent, on at least 6 arpents, 10 6. To the greatest weight and the best quality ditto on at least 4 arpents, 6 7. For ditto ditto on at least 2 arpents, 3 8. For ditto ditto on at least 1 arpent, 2 The sample to be a quart taken indifferently from the heap. Vegetables and Hay. 9. To the person who shall raise on land which was in standmg wood, and has been cleared in the ten months pre- ceding, the best crop of turnips on at least 2 arpents, . . 10 10. For the next best crop ditto ditto (> 11. To the person who shall raise the greatest quantity of potatoes on 4 arpents, harrowed or hoed three times to prepare for grain crop, 10 12. To the best crop, per arpent, of yellow turnips, Swedish turnips, choux de Siam, mangel wurzel, carrots or other root crops, in drills, 27 inches apart at least, well Aa2 372 APPENDIX. cleaned, the interval between the drills kept free of weeds by jilougliiiig and harromng ; the whole housed and kept in good condition, and used to feed cattle in winter, on at least 4 arpents, 20 I'A. For the next greatest weight ditto, same conditions, on at least 2 arpents, 1 1 4. For the next greatest quantity, same conditions, on 1 arpent, K 15 To the ])crson who shall have raised and kept in good condition the greatest weight ])er arpent of timothy, clover, franc-foin, or clean timothy clover, on at least 4 arpents, which bore grain after a root croj), anc' on which the hay and gi-ain shall have been sown at the same time wUliout manure for the hay crop, 20 IG. For ditto ditto on 2 arpents at least, 10 Hops. 17- To the person raising the greatest quantity and best quality of merchantable hops fit for exportation, on 2 arjjents at least, lr> 1.3. For the next greatest weight ditto on 1 arpent at least, .- « 1 !). For the next greatest weight ditto on half an arpent, 4 The hops must be put into sacks, each containing 250 lb. Those wishing to conijjete, are to present to the com- mittee suitable certificates, with a sample of one pound weight. Hat/ Seed and Veyetable. 20. For clean red clover-seed, raised in the district, not less tlian one hundred-weight V, 21. For ditto ditto, not less than half a hundred- weight. t 22. For franc-foin seed, raised in this district, not less than one hundred-weight 8 2 ,. For the greatest quantity and the best quality of clean timothy -seed raised in this district, not less than 4 bushels, 8 24. For the greatest quantity and best quality of yel- low field turnip-seel, not less than 50 lb U> AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF QUEBEC. 373 25. For ditto ditto Swedish turnips seed, ditto, ... 10 The samples of the seed are to be taken indifferently from the heap. Premiums on Crops from new Land. 26 To the person who shaU raise on new land which was in standing wood, and was cleared and brought into culture in the eighteen months preceding, the best crop of wheat on at least 4 arpents, 15 27. For the best crop of oats, same conditions, ... 10 28. For the best crop of rye ditto 10 29. For the next best ditto 5 30. For the best crop of potatoes, ditto 10 31. For the next best, 5 32. For the best crop of turnips ditto ...... 10 33. For the next best, 5 Premiums for Flax. 34. To the fanner who shall sow the greatest extent of land with flaxseed, at least 3 arpents, in the year 1831 ; take up the crop at a convenient season ; bind it imme- diately into small sheaves ; place it upright to dry the seed ; when the seed is dry, thrash it to preserve it in good con- dition ; then place the flax to steep in stagnant water for a sufficient time ; take it out and expose it to dry ; when dry, house and convert it into flax. On producing a certificate of the produce of each arpent in flax and seed, with a sam- ple of a pound of flax and a quart of seed, . . . ■ . 25 .35. For the next greatest quantity of land, not less than two arpents, in the same manner, 1(1 36. To the next best not less than 1 arpent, .... 8 For raising Hemp. 37. To the farmer who shall sow hemp-seed, and get the greatest return in weight and quality of seed and hemp per arpent, or at least 3 arpents, 30 The hemp must be steeped in water after the seed is thrashed. A a 3 374 APPENDIX. C y Those wishing to compete for these prizes and fol- lowing, may consult a little pamphlet entitled, " Manner of cultivating and prcpaiing Flax and Hemp, published in 1 H20, by order and at the expense of the (Quebec Agricul- tural Society." It may be obtained from the agents of the Society in the different parishes of the district. The competitors to the prizes preceding for flax may also consult this little pamphlet. The sample of dressed hemp sent to the committee must be of 1 lb. taken indifferently, and the sample of seed of one quart, also taken indifferently. 38. To the farmer who shall sow the next greatest quan- tity of hemp seed, same conditions, on at least 2 arpents, . 25 39. To the next greatest extent of land, same conditions, on 1 i arpent, 20 40. For the next greatest extent of land, same condi- tions, on at least I arpent, 13 41. For the next greatest extent of land, same condi- tions, on 4 arpent, 10 42. For the next greatest extent of land, same condi- tions, on at least 4 arpent ^ Agricultural Ejcperiments. 43. To the farmer who shall report to the Society the manner the most expeditious and the least expensive to clear new lands of woods, &c. stating what crops best suit it, regard being had to the quality of the soil, for the three first years ; the experiment to be made on 5 arpents at least, 8 44. To the farmer who will draw up and exhibit to the Society the best plan for a rotation of crops adapted to the climate, soil, and market of this district, as well as to the form and size of the ordinary farms, 16 45. To the farmer who shall have followed a regular ro- tation of crops of grain and vegetables during at least the last four yeai's, on at least 5 arpents, 16 46. To the farmer who shall exhibit to the Society the most satisfactory details of experiments made to improve AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF QUEBEC. 375 the culture of any or the whole of the following kinds of grain and plants, viz — wheat, rye, barley, oats, beans, peas, buckwheat, turnips, cabbages, potatoes, carrots, mangel wurzel, franc-foin, timothy, clover, lucerne, sahi- foin, hemp, flax, and hops, 20 47. To the farmer who shall exhibit the most satisfac- tory details of experiments on the efficacy and the cost of the following manures, viz. — dung (green and decayed), lime, plaster, burned clay, marl, street dung, salt and any other kind of manure found in this Province, 20 48. To the person who shall have obtained 100 loads of artificial manure, by heating the following substances or parts thereof^ viz — sods, vegetable mould, road mud, cleanings of drains and stable yards, pond mud, straw, sweepings of barns, house sweepings, dead carcasses, re- mains of hides and cloths, horns, wools, ashes, lime, dung of every kind, plaster, all kinds of sea and aquatic weeds, tree leaves, weedings of gardens, fern, salt or sea water, urine, human excrements, the dregs of tanners' tubs, suds, poisonous weeds, &c. corrupted meat and fish, dregs of oU, the waters in which flax or hemp have been steeped, . . 20 49. To the person giving the most satisfactory details of experiments on at least 5 arpents on the advantage of plaster or gypsum as a manure, 10 50. For the best nursery of apple or other finiit trees, engrafted, not less than 200 plants, 20 51. For the best ditto with wild trees, ready to be trans- planted or engrafted, not less than 1000 plants, .... 10 Clotks and Linens of Home Manufacture. 52. To the person who shall make or cause to be made the best cloth called itojfe, or any kind whatever, not less than 20 eUs, 8 53. For the next best, not less than 15 ells, .... 6 54. To the person who shall manufacture the best and finest sail-cloth from hemp, not less than 10 ells, ... 8 55. For the next best, not less than 10 ells, .... 6 50". To the person who shall manufacture the finest and 370 APPENDIX. best linens of flax with a machine, No. 10, not loss than 10 ells, 12 57. For the next best, 10 58. To the person who shall manufacture the finest and best sail-cloth from hemp threail, not less than 10 ells, . 8 59. For the next finest and best, G To the person who shall from his own sheep obtain the greatest quantity of wool of the finest quality, To the next finest and best. The Committee in awarding these premiums will par- ticularly examine the quality of th3 flax and wool, the fineness of the thread of the cloth, and of the regularity of the tissue. The competitors will present to the commit- tee the pieces of cloth or linen, with certificates that they have manufactured or caused them to be manufactured. The certificate may be presented on the day of the exhibi- tion. The committee will consider the flax employed in manufacture, which wUl have been steeped in water as preferable. Fatted Oxen and Sheep. These will be exposed alive on the Wednesday before Easter, 18th April 18;J2, on the Upper Town Market- riace, at 10 in the forenoon, 60. For the ox of Canadian breed, the best and fatlt^st, fattened on green food, 12 6i. For the next best, 10 62. For the next best, H 6.3. For the next best, fi 64. For the fattest and best ox of any breed, fattened on green food, 12 65. For the next best, 10 66. For the next best, « 67. For the next best, 6 68. For the greatest number of oxen, fattened on green food, not less than 8, 8 69. For the next greatest number, not less than 4, . . 12 70. For the 6 liest and fatted sheej), castrated before 2 months old, fed and fattened on green food, 10 AGRICULTURAL, SOCIETY OF QUEBEC. 377 71. For the 6 next best, f> 72. For the 4 next best, 4 Bees. The Committee will award the following prizes at their first meeting after the 1st June 1830 : 73. To the person who shall have wintered the greatest number of bees' hives, and have preserved them in the best state, not less than three, 1st prize, . 8 71. Second prize, 6 (Signed) By order of the Committee, F. X. Vaillancourt, Assistant-Secretary of the Agricultural Society of Quebec. The folloiving Table, as in March 1832, may be of some inlerest, as exhibiting tlie expense of living in the large Mercantile or Military Towns of Canada, and the prude7ice of settlers shm-tening their sojourn in such places ; and also, of shewing tJie returns which farmers within reach of such markets, may expect to realize. PRICES OF PROVISIONS SOLD IN THE MARKETS OF QUEBEC. In the Butchers'' Stalls. Beef, per lb £0 5 @ X'O 6 Pork, per do 6... 007 Veal, per do 5 ... fi Mutton, per do 9 ... 10 Lamb, per quarter ... 7 In the Markets. Beef, per lb £0 4 @ £0 5 Pork, per do 5 ... 6 Mutton, whole, (none) ... Mutton, per qr. (do.) ... Veal, per do 2 6 ... 5 378 APPENDIX. Salt butter, per lb £0 11 Fresh, do. per do 1 C Venison, per do. (none) .... ^faple Sugar, jier II) 4 Tallow, per lb 8 Turkeys, per couple, (none) . • . • Geese, per do. (do.) Ducks, per do 2 9 Fowls, per do 3 Chickens, per do. (none) .... Partridges, per do 4.'} Hares, per do 18 Pigeons, per dozen, (none) . . . Eggs, per do 9 Salmon, whole, (none) Fresh Cod Fish, lb. (none) . . . Sturgeon, per do. do Turnips, per minot, 19 Potatoes, per do 1 (> Cabbages, per 100, (none) .... Onions, per 100, 3 Hay, per 100 bundles, 4 Straw, per 100 do. (none) .... • Do. per bundle, 3 Oats, per minot, 3 Peas, per do 7 6 Flour, per cwt 1 .5 Wood, per cord, 15 :o 1 1 8 .'> 9 3 -0 3 6 4 6 1 9 10 2 1 8 3 6 .') 4 3 K 8 Ifi 17 C ( 379 ) s. -« -" CO C3 r, H O -3 H T3 _> S, tao"© O as u =§ S Of X 2 ^ ^,5 O OS o o •a < c r- 1) rt ■•-* i^ -^ Ur -4-i ^ -{ • 1—1 o ifi o M >^ •f^ 'r- ^ rJ J ■*-> =*-. t«-!' o 'J^ m .<-» '^ flJ ; ) u O- ^ ■7 2:3 3 '^ ^ © c S o ,r C ^ 3 OJ W ^ -^ .2 3 2 ■to e a -J* I ei W t3 O o >> CQ r3 *^ >• O ^ . 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