THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 THE 
 
 OF -"tees* 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID
 
 ft 
 
 .•-- :--x;-^- V .♦ 
 
 PRACTICAL NOTES.
 
 PRACTICAL NOTES 
 
 MADE DURING A 
 
 TOUR IN CANADA, 
 
 AND A PORTION OF THE UNITED STATES, 
 IN MDCCCXXXI. 
 
 BY ADAM FERGUSSON, 
 
 OF WOODHILLj ADVOCATE. 
 DEDICATED BY PERMISSION TO 
 
 THE HIGHLAND SOCIETY OF SCOTLAND. 
 « VIDI." 
 
 WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH ; AND 
 
 T. CADELL, STRAND, LONDON. 
 
 MDCCCXXXIII.
 
 r'RINTBD BV NKI1.L & CO. 
 OLD PISHMARK£T.
 
 
 r 
 
 TO 
 
 THE PRESIDENT, VICE-PRESIDENTS, AND 
 DIRECTORS 
 
 OF 
 
 THE HIGHLAND SOCIETY OF SCOTLAND. 
 
 My Lords axd Gentlemen, 
 
 To whom can I with equal propriety, and 
 with so much honour to myself, address these humble 
 pages, as to the Official Department of that Patriotic 
 Association, under whose kind and flattering encourage- 
 ment I was first led to preserve my cursory remarks. 
 
 An Institution so pre-eminently distinguished as the 
 Highland Society, woidd require to exercise the most 
 fastidious reserve regarding publications which may 
 issue under t/ie sanction of its name. 
 
 While it is my duty, tlierefore, and my pride , to 
 acknowledge the kind ccmfidence of the Directors, in 
 extending to me a permissio?i which it is unusual to 
 grant, I must, in the most unequivocal tnannenr, exonerate 
 the Society from any concurrence in the views of the 
 Author, arising from the mere fact of having accepted 
 his humble dedication.a-s. r— o /-> r' <r &
 
 VI DEDICATION. 
 
 The growing importance of our Tra7is-Atlantic 
 Colonies, the strong tide of emigration setting in totcards 
 tile American Continent, and the tiiousands of Cale- 
 donias sons already established there, must excite a 
 desire to possess the sentiments and observations of everjf 
 impartial man, who may visit these distant shores. 
 
 To honesty and candour alone tvill I lay claim ; 
 and, if possessed of any talent for correctly judging 
 upon rural affairs, I hesitate not to ascribe such ac- 
 quirement, to tiie opportunities and inducements afforded 
 me, from mixing in the business of the Society, and 
 disclmrging, however inadequately, the duties of a Di- 
 rector at its Board. 
 
 I have the honour to remain, 
 
 My Lords axd Gentlemen, 
 
 Your obliged atid obedient Servant, 
 
 ADAM FERGUSSOX. 
 
 Edinbuhuh, December 1833.
 
 TO THE PUBLIC. 
 
 Well may the Reader exclaim, whose eye 
 shall glance upon my title-page. What ! Canada 
 again ! Another and another yet ! No doubt 
 some catchpenny for failing farmers, or webless 
 weavers. — Reasonable and natural surmises, I 
 admit, and to which I can only oppose the sim- 
 ple assurance, that in launching this little bark, 
 my paramount object has been to assist the views 
 of those who may contemplate a removal to other 
 climes. 
 
 That these constitute a pretty numerous 
 and an increasing body, no man can deny; and 
 that, where truth bears us out, it is essential to 
 direct their industry and capital to the Colonies 
 of Britain, no friend of his country will dispute. 
 
 If there are those who consider the §un of 
 Britain about to set, I disclaim all participation
 
 nil TO THE PUBLIC. 
 
 in their fears. That our position is critical I 
 admit ; but, with liberality and firmness in our 
 Rulers, and with moderation and good sense in 
 the great body of the Nation, and, above all, by 
 humble reliance upon Almighty God, the Little 
 Island will float triumphant yet. 
 
 The sentiments of a candid and intelligent 
 citizen of the States, lately expressed to me, de- 
 serve to be deeply weighed. " Even," says he, 
 " with your present burden of debt, if your Go- 
 vernment were to renounce all interference with 
 the affairs of the Continent, and keep no more 
 force, land or naval, than is necessary for yoiur 
 own security; have no more wars ; and diminish 
 the expenditure as much as possible; you would 
 grow so rapidly in the next fifty years, that your 
 debt would cease to be of any importance. I 
 earnestly hope that the passage of the Reform 
 Bill may be only the prelude to an entire change 
 of system, and that your successors may feel, as 
 we do here, that wars do not promote the pros- 
 perity of a nation, and have the good sense to 
 avoid them." 
 
 Whether at any, or at what period, our Nortli 
 American Colonies mav cast off the Parent
 
 TO THE PUBLIC. IX 
 
 State, are questions in the womb of Time. Let 
 the policy of both be, meanwhile, directed to 
 foster a conciliatory spirit, ready to meet any 
 emergency which may occur, and to prove, that 
 the costly experience of time past has not been 
 thrown away, whether the event may terminate 
 in sepaiation or adherence.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Page 
 
 Extract of Minutes of the Highland Society — Edinburgh 
 to Manchester — Celebrated Railway to Liverpool — 
 Short interim excursion to Chester and Menai Strait — 
 Embark at Liveri^ool for New York — Packet encoun- 
 ters heavy gales — Luminousness of the Ocean, . 1~]4 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Arrival off Sandy Hook— City of New York—Excellent 
 Accommodation of Bunker's Hotel — American Society 
 — Thorburn's Seed-store, lo-,24 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Steam Voyage up the Hudson — The Dinner on Board — 
 State Prison of Sing Sing — Military College of West 
 Point — City of Albany — Senate and House of Assem- 
 bly — Superiority of the American Breed of Horses — 
 Albany Museum — American Character for Inquisi- 
 tiveness, 24^30 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Phaeton Excursion up the Banks of the Hudson to Easton 
 — Join the Stage-Coach for Whitehall — Bad Roads — 
 Village ofSandy Hill— Town of WhitehaU, . 40„52
 
 XII CONTENTS- 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Page 
 Lake Champlain — Embark in a Steamer for Canada — 
 Ticondcroga — Plattsburgli — St John's — Waggon-tra- 
 velling to ha Prairie — Execrable State of the Roads 
 
 Steam-boat from La Prairie to Montreal, . . 53~(i3 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 City of Montreal — Ice in the River St La^\Tence — Mar- 
 kets — 3Ir S.'s Notes regarding the Indians of the 
 Western Country — Excursion by Steam to Quebec — 
 Sliort Account of the City — Plains of Abraham — Re- 
 turn to JMontreal, 64^80 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Visit to the Upper Provinces — Coach Journey to La Chine 
 — Steam-boat Travelling on the St Lawrence — Land 
 Travelling in a non-descript Vehicle — Canadian Roads 
 — Town of Prescot, 81^91 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Voyage from Prescot to Kingston — The Thousand Islands 
 — Town of Kingston — Rideau Canal — Excursion on 
 Quinte Bay — Voyage on Lake Ontario to Queenston 
 — Anecdotes of the Frontier War, . . . 92.,103 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Falls of Niagara — Journey to York — An Extra, or Ame- 
 rican Post-Chaisc — Newark — The While Fish of the 
 Lakes — Town of York — Government-House, 104„11.'> 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Stage-coach Journey through Toronto and Trafalgar 
 Townships— The " Farmer's Inn"—" Summer's T;u 
 vern" — Nelson Township — Visit to Guelph Town — A 
 Forest Ride — Negro Family, .... 116^124
 
 CONTENTS. XIll 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Page 
 Town of Guelph — Visit to Gait Farm — Equestrian Excur- 
 sion to Brandtford and Hamilton — Interview with a 
 Scotch Borderer— Mohawk Village, . . . 125^140 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Journey from Hamilton to Grimsby and St Catharine's — 
 Return to Niagara — American Fall — Goat Island — 
 Leaping the Fall — A Canadian Spring Day, . 141^148 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Visit to Buffalo — Hints to Emigrants as to the Choice of 
 a Situation in Canada — Means of Education — Prices 
 of Live-Stock, Implements, Produce. Labour. Furni- 
 ture, 149^162 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Town of Buffalo — The Bank — American Hotels — Track- 
 Boat on the Erie Canal for Rochester — Floating Me- 
 nagerie — Deposit of Fossil Wood in progress to Coal — 
 Anecdotes of New Orleans by an American Travel- 
 ler, 163~172 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Town of Rochester — Aqueduct across the Genesee — Wa- 
 terfall — Sam Patch — Stage-coach to Canandaigua — 
 State of the Country — To^vn of Canandaigua — Mode of 
 preserving Ice, 173~182 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Town of Geneva — Value of Land — Small' Town of Au- 
 burn — Its State Prison — Journey to Utica — The Town 
 — Road to Schenectady — Sir AVilliam Johnston — Tra- 
 velling from Schenectady to Albany — Return by Steam- 
 er to New York — Altered Face of the Country, . 183<,194
 
 XIV CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Past- 
 
 Steam-boat and Coach Journey to Philadelphia — Intelli- 
 gent American Grazier — Bordentown— Joseph Bona- 
 parte — Banks of the Delaware — City of Philadelphia 
 — Oppressive Heat — Visit to Laurelhill — Sail down the 
 Delaware, and through Chesapeake Bay to Baltimore, 
 
 195^204 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 City of Baltimore— Journey to Washington — Internal 
 Slave-trade denounced — Capital of the United States — 
 Halls of Congress and Senate, and the Capitol — Inter- 
 view with General Jackson, the President — Visit to 
 Mount Vernon — Tomb of General Washington — Re- 
 turn to New York, 205^222 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Character of the Americans — Jealousy of Independence 
 
 Catechetical Propensity — Pedantic Nomenclature — 
 
 Peculiar Phraseology — Personal Habits — Servants or 
 
 Helps Respect for the Fair Sex — State of Religion 
 
 and ftlorality — American Constitution and Pul)lic ]Men 
 
 Misrepresentations of the Quarterly Review and 
 
 Captain Basil Hall, 223-250 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Embark in the George Canning for England — Account of 
 the Great Sea Serpent confirmed^— Arrival at Liver- 
 pool 25U2.56
 
 CONTENTS. XV 
 
 PART 11. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Page 
 Lower Canada — Climate — Soil — ^Agriculture — Markets 
 
 — Upper Canada — Lumber-trade — Bay of Quinte — 
 
 Value of Land — York — Canada Company, . . 259-,273 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Head of Lake Ontario — Toronto District — Guelph — 
 Township of Waterloo — of (rait — of Paris — Prices of 
 Farm produce, 274-,28!) 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Emigration to the States — Albany — Valley of the Hud- 
 son — Value of various Farms — Produce and Prices — 
 Genesee Country — Michigan, .... 290.^314 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. I. Territory of Michigan, 317 
 
 II. Note regarding Pauperism in England; with some 
 
 Suggestions upon Emigration, .... 342 
 
 III. Advice to Emigrants, 351 
 
 IV. Information to Emigi'ants, 359 
 
 V. City of the Falls, 360 
 
 VI. Mr Robertson's Notes, 364 
 
 VII. Agricultural Society of Quebec, . . . .371
 
 ERRATUM. 
 Page 2(i8, line -28, for any reai my
 
 PRACTICAL NOTES. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Extract of Minutes of the Highland Society — Edinburgh to 
 Manchester — Celebrated Railway to Liverpool — Short in- 
 terim excursion to Chester and Menai Strait — Embark at 
 Liverpool for New York — Packet encounters heavy gales — 
 Luminousness of the Ocean. 
 
 Having long entertained a desire to visit the United 
 States and Canada, for the purpose of satisfying- my- 
 self regarding the actual condition and prospects of 
 Agricultural Settlers in these countries, I left Edin- 
 burgh upon the 12th February 1831 for Manchester, 
 with the view of embarking at Liverpool. 
 
 Previous to leaving Scotland, I communicated my 
 intention to the Directors of the Highland Society, 
 who kindly honoured me with the following letter : 
 
 " The Directors having been apprized by Mr Fer- 
 gusson of Woodhill of his intention to visit Canada 
 and the United States of America, it has appeared 
 
 A
 
 2 LETTER FROll DIRECTORS OF 
 
 to tlieni, that tliis may ufFord a favourable opportu- 
 nity of obtaining' such information reg'arding- those 
 countries, as may prove beneficial to rural economy 
 and the useful arts at home. The zealous and va- 
 luable assistance which tlie Highland Society of Scot- 
 land has received from Mr Fergusson, as a Member 
 and Director, and his knowledge and experience ac- 
 quired in the long and honourable discharge of every 
 duty of a country gentleman, afford an assurance to 
 the Directors, that he will be eminently attentive to 
 all such circumstances connected with the state of 
 industry and the useful arts in the rich and magni- 
 ficent countries which he is to visit, as may tend to 
 promote the improvement of those arts in his own. 
 
 " The Directors will therefore receive with the 
 highest satisfaction, such information as IMr Fergus- 
 sou may from time to time connnunicate reg'arding- 
 the arts and natural productions of the New World, 
 as well as on the subject of eniig'ration, and the con- 
 dition of the emigrants ; and should he meet with 
 associations similar to this Society in the purposes 
 of their institution, the Directors authorize him to 
 open up Avith them such a friendly intercourse as may 
 lead to mutual good offices, and an interchange of 
 useful information. 
 
 " The J^ircctors in taking leave for a time of a gen- 
 tleman with whom they have been so long associated 
 in all the useful labours of this Society, and whose 
 personal character and private worth they have so 
 much cause to appreciate, feel it a duty to record 
 their warmest acknowledgments for the long, assi-
 
 THE HIGHLAND SOCIETY. 3 
 
 duous and valuable assistance which he has rendered 
 to the Highland Society ; their anxious desire that 
 he should soon again be enabled to resume the duties 
 which he has so well fulfilled ; and their cordial 
 wishes for his success in the objects which he now 
 contemplates by visiting the United States of Ame- 
 rica, and the Colonies of Great Britain. 
 ' " The Chairman is requested to communicate to 
 Mr Fergussou an extract of these minutes. 
 
 " Pat. Murray, Chairman^ 
 
 "Highland Society Hall, Edinburgh,) 
 U February ViS-ii:' J 
 
 Immediately upon m.y return, I sent them a short 
 statistical account of my tour ; and as it contains mat- 
 ter not so minutely detailed in my Notes, I have 
 given it entire as the Second Part of this work. 
 
 A heavy fall of snow which had lately blocked up 
 the roads was fast dissolving, and the Tweed, with 
 its tributary streams, was rolling along in mighty 
 flood. The country wore a wintry aspect, but the 
 numerous plantations on every hand enlivened the 
 scene. I was amused by the remark mentioned by 
 a fellow-passenger, as having been made by a gentle- 
 man lately returned from India, who, upon being 
 asked if the great Improvements during liis absence 
 did not fill him with delight, replied that he could 
 by no means join in their admiration, as the whole 
 country was, in his opinion, " running to jungle^' 
 
 A 2
 
 4 LIVERPOOL AND MANCHKSTBR RAILWAY. 
 
 Having formoily visited the maiiufiutories of Maii- 
 chester, I proceeded without delay to Liverpool, by 
 the far-famed railway. We started with eight car- 
 riages attached to the engine with such imperceptible 
 motion, that it was only, when I found myself un- 
 able to read a milestone, or to distinguish the fea- 
 tures of those who darted past in the opposite direc- 
 tion, that I was led to consult my wati^li for the rate 
 of travelling, when I found, to my surprise, that the 
 next five miles were done in fifteen minutes; nor 
 was it possible, from the precautions so judiciously 
 taken, to feel either anxiety or dread. 
 
 The project of tliis railway was first discussed in 
 1822 ; subsequently, Mr Sanders of Liverpool adopt- 
 ed the scheme, and, by being guarantee for the ex- 
 penses of the first survey, he may be considered as 
 the father of the imdertaking. It met with great 
 opposition in Parliament, and, before the act could 
 be obtained to proceed with the work, the cost en- 
 tailed on the parties engaged in the contest was at 
 least from L. 60,000 to L. 70,000. 
 
 On the 19th of Jime 1826, Mr G. Stephenson Avas 
 appointed principal engineer to the company, by the 
 directoi's, and, in the same month, the actual opera- 
 tion was begun on Chat Moss, near Manchester. 
 The first shaft of the Liverpool tunnel was opened 
 in September of the same year. During the Avhole 
 of the year IS'27, the formation of the tunnel was 
 carried forward, night and day, with great spirit. It 
 was constructed in seven or eight separate lengths, 
 communicating with the surface by as many upright
 
 LIVERPOOL AND MANCHESTER RAILAVAY. 5 
 
 shafts ; and tlie junction of the various cuttings was 
 completed in June 1828, with the greatest accuracy, 
 and in a manner highly creditable to the talents of 
 the engineer. On the 1st January 1830, the Rocket, 
 locomotive engine, constructed by Mr Stephenson, 
 with a carriage and passengers, passed over Chat 
 Moss for the first time. 
 
 The total expense of the railway, including its 
 machinery and carriages, is estimated at L. 820,000; 
 and allowing the length of the whole line to be thirty- 
 two miles, the expense, per mile, will be L. 25,625, 
 or at the rate of nearly 14 guineas per lineal yard. 
 
 Large as the expenditure has been, it is highly 
 satisfactory to know that the undertaking will be a 
 source of handsome remuneration to the company. 
 I understand that, during the twelve months which 
 have elapsed since the opening of the Liverpool and 
 Manchester Railway, about 460,000 persons have 
 passed between the two towns. The sum received 
 for the conveyance of passengers and goods during 
 the same period has been upwards of L. 1 90,000. 
 
 From the powers of the locomotive engines on the 
 railroad, goods and passengers are conveyed from 
 Liverpool to Manchester, a distance of thirty-two 
 miles, in about two hours. As a contrast to this 
 rapid transmission between the towns, the following 
 statement may not be out of place. A stage-coach 
 was first established between Liverpool and Man- 
 chester in 1767. The roads were then so bad that 
 the coach was drawn by six, and occasionally by 
 eight, horses, and it required the whole of the day to
 
 6 LIVERPOOL AND MANCHESTER RAILWAY. 
 
 perform the journey. An old gentlenvin, now resi- 
 dent in Liverpool, relates that, between fifty and 
 sixty years ago, he occasionally visited Manchester, 
 when the coach started early in the morning from 
 Liverpool ; the passengers breakfasted at Prescot, 
 dined at Wiirrington, and arrived sometimes in time 
 for supper at Manchester. On one occasion, at War- 
 rington, after dinner, the coachman intimated his 
 anxiety to proceed ; when he was requested by the 
 company to take another pint and wait a little longer, 
 as they had not finished their wine, asking him at 
 the same time if he was in a hurry ; " Why," re- 
 plied John, " I'm not partic'lar as to an hour or so" 
 Among other regulations, a watchman perambu- 
 lates every half-mile to detect any stone or other 
 dangerous impediment upon the rail. As he sees 
 the carriages approaching, if all be right, he stops 
 and extends his arm in sufficient time to enable the 
 engineer to stop the train, should that signal of safety 
 not be displayed. Some accidents undoubtedly hap- 
 pen, but they may be traced, in almost every in- 
 stance, to a want of ordinary prudence and attention 
 in the unhappy sufferers. As we bowled along, a 
 little circumstance, more ludicrous than dangerous, 
 occasioned a small loss of time. Tin; hook by which 
 No. 2. was attached to No. 1. suddenly gave way, 
 and the engine, with one carriage only, shot off like 
 lightning, leaving the others to follow as they best 
 could. The alarm was, however, quickly given, the 
 engine reversed its movement, while our impetus 
 carried us yet steadily forward, and the whole affair
 
 LIVERPOOL. 7 
 
 was speedily adjusted. The tunnelling and cutting 
 upon some portions of the line are stupendous, and 
 the whole stands a magnificent sample of enterprise 
 and scientific skill. 
 
 The consternation occasioned among the coach- 
 pi'oprietors on the line, by this wholesale mode of 
 travelling, was of course great, and heavy individual 
 losses necessarily incurred, with much jealousy and 
 ill-will towards the intruder. A knight of the whip, 
 who had been forced to drop his reins, mustered up 
 resolution one morning to take a trip by the railway, 
 and, in spite of a very reasonable stock of indigna- 
 tion, soon felt his asperity giving way under the ex- 
 citement of such a slapping pace, and, ere he had pro- 
 ceeded far,', exclaimed in ecstasy to the engineer, 
 " Come now, my lad, that's it, do boil us up a bit of a 
 gallop." 
 
 Liverpool, the mighty Tyre of modern times, is a 
 scene of wealth and bustle which must strike the 
 most indifferent observer. Commerce reigns here 
 with unbounded sway ; and it is pleasing to observe 
 how the extinction of one appalling branch, so long 
 engrossing the enterprise and capital of Liverpool, 
 has been succeeded by an overwhelming tide of pros- 
 perity and success. 
 
 The kind friends to whom I was consigned in 
 Liverpool made me happy in every respect, save the 
 uneasiness I felt at trespassing upon their valuable 
 time ; and, as certain arrangements required the post- 
 ponement of our departure until the 24th, I resolved 
 upon visiting the ancient city of Chester. I had a
 
 8 CITV OF CHESTKR. 
 
 very pleasant ride, for half-a-croitm, crossing the 
 Mersey by an oblique ferry of seven miles, in a 
 steamer. Chester, one of the most ancient cities in 
 England, is finely situate upon the Dee, which di- 
 vides it from Wales. It is walled round, and the 
 ramparts afford an agreeable promenade, with fine 
 views of the Welsh mountains and rich plains of 
 Cheshire. The ijiterior of the town is, however, 
 more remarkable, the streets having been originally 
 hollowed out in such a way as left the citizens an 
 opportunity of assailing unwelcome visitors from 
 covered galleries above, and which run like terraces 
 through most parts of the town. These cloisters, 
 known by the name of rows, form an agreeable 
 lounge, and, being extremely well suited for assigna- 
 tions, suggested an explanation (perhaps rather fan- 
 ciful) of the common phrase, " communicating some- 
 thing under the rows," which, as applied to a flower, 
 seems sufficiently absurd. There is a very fine jail, 
 a court-house, &c. ; and a magnificent stone bridge 
 is now erected upon the Dee, the centre arch of 
 which is probably the largest in the world, being a 
 span of 200 feet. At a remote period, Chester was 
 a sea-port, but the waves have long ceased to break 
 against its walls, and a noble domain, of 7000 or 
 8000 acres, now belongs to the Dee Company, by 
 charter from Lord Crew, whose family originally ac- 
 quired this valuable manor from the ocean. I lodged 
 in Chester at the Albion, an hotel in every way com- 
 fortable, and particularly commending itself to me, 
 from an instance of liberality in Mr Willoughby the
 
 EXCURSION TO MENAI BRIDGE. 9 
 
 landlord, rarely to be met with, aud not to be ex- 
 pected. A gentleman in the hotel, with whom I 
 passed the evening-, represented to me the wonders 
 of the Menai Bridge, in such glowing terms, that a 
 strong desire was excited to pay it a visit. A glance 
 at my bill, however, in the morning quickly satisfied 
 me that ray purse, prepared only for a day in Chester, 
 was quite unequal to an excursion into Wales. I 
 thought it worth a chance, however, to broach the 
 matter to mine host, who, in the handsomest terms, 
 offered me at once any accommodation, and made me 
 perfectly at ease, a piece of civility and confidence 
 enhanced by the circumstance of having entered his 
 hotel without an article of luggage beyond my great- 
 coat. We crossed the Dee, and proceeded for Ban- 
 gor, a distance of sixty-four miles. The country is 
 beautiful, especially in the vale of Clwyd and Con- 
 way. The cultivation I should consider slovenly. 
 Two-horse ploughs are, however, pretty general, but 
 scarce a field of turnips is to be seen. The Tees- 
 water cattle seem to be coming into favour, and 
 Colonel Hughes, (since raised to the peerage), who 
 owns a beautiful place and princely estate at St 
 George, sets a good example, in cultivating green 
 crops, adopting improved implements, &c. A large 
 portion of this estate is rich alluvial deposit, yielding 
 the heaviest wheat of the district ; yet, such is the 
 poor state of culture, that I was informed the pro- 
 duce never exceeded two or three quarters per acre. 
 The rent is twenty-five shillings, and the tithe and 
 poor-rate probably from three shillings to five shil-
 
 10 EXCURSION TO MENAI BRIJ)GE. 
 
 lings more. The river at Conway is crossed by JV 
 suspension-ljridge, and has been made to liarmonize 
 in excellent taste, with the ancient towers and ram- 
 parts of the castle. 
 
 Soon after leav-ing Conway, we come to the frown- 
 ing promontory of Penmanmawr, along the side of 
 which the road has been hewn from the solid rock, 
 and forms certainly an ajtpalling- pass — the rough 
 mountain face on one hand, and the Atlantic raging 
 beneath the precipice on the other. The wind, 
 charged with drifted sand, blows frequently M-ith 
 tremendous violence at this point ; and it has hap- 
 pened more than once that the mail-coach has been 
 fairly obliged to turn back to Conway. The coun* 
 try from this to Bangor is still indifferently farmed, 
 and large flocks of small half-starved sheep, resem- 
 bling our old Scotch tawny-faced breed, were pick- 
 ing a scanty living over the naked fallows ; the soil 
 good loam, y<'t not an acre of turnips to be seen. 
 
 Penrylin Castle, belonging to Mr Pennant, the 
 owner of extensive slate -quarries and a fine estate, 
 is close to Bangor. Tlu> castle is a heavy-looking 
 pile, in a park surrounded by a fine wall, seven miles 
 in extent, and approached by a gateway, which alone 
 is said to have cost L. 10,000, The constant inter- 
 course on this road with Ireland, and the dangerous 
 uncertainty of the f(M-ry at Bangor across the Menai 
 Strait, suggested the expediency of erecting a sus- 
 pension-bridge, which the genius and science of Tel- 
 ford soon carried into effect. This elegant and use- 
 ful structure imites the mainland to the Isle of An-
 
 MENAI BRIDGE. 11 
 
 glesea, on the great line of Parliamentary roacl to 
 Holyhead. It is above 1717 feet in length, and 
 must strike all who visit it as a work of no ordinary 
 achievement. In standing- upon the bridge, sus- 
 pended by massive chains, and beholding a stately 
 vessel passing, at the depth of 100 feet below, it is 
 impossible not to feel impressed with the magnitude 
 and boldness of the attempt. Had it been effected 
 at the expense of private individuals, we should have 
 regretted the failure of pecuniary returns. The es- 
 tablishment of steam-vessels from Liverpool to Dub- 
 lin has seriously diminished the pontage of Menai, 
 by diverting the stream of travellers into another 
 channel ; but it was executed as a national concern, 
 and the public exchequer bears the loss. The 
 bridge cost L. 200,000, and the toll is at present less 
 than L. 1000 per annum. 
 
 I regretted that it was not in my power to see 
 more of Wales at this time. The country is beau- 
 tiful ; the peasantry, so far as I saw, civil and indus- 
 trious. Many ancient customs are kept up by the 
 Cambrians, none perhaps more simply interesting 
 than the attention paid by relatives to the graves of 
 departed friends, of which some are carefully secur- 
 ed with matting of straw, and all are decorated with 
 evergreens and flowers. 
 
 It is now, however, time to embark for the ulti- 
 mate object of my journey. Upon returning to Li- 
 verpool, I found, that, by great exertions, the packet- 
 ship York, in which we were to sail, had discharged 
 her American cargo, and replaced it in the short
 
 12 EMBARKATION AT I.rVKUPOOL. 
 
 space of six days, and that Captain Bnrsloy was pre- 
 pared to sail upon tlu' 24tli. We embarked accord- 
 ingly tliat morning, and joined the ship by a steamer, 
 which continued to tow us for some time against a 
 head wind. The packet-ships between New York 
 and Liverpool are of the very first class, equally re- 
 markable for comfort and safety. Accidents are ex- 
 tremely rare ; and the unfortunate loss of the Al- 
 bion upon the Irish coast, some years ago, is gene- 
 rally ascribed to a hazard which no captain would 
 now encounter. The regular packets had been at 
 tliat period recently established, and tradiiig vessels 
 used every manoBuvre to discredit them by superior 
 sailing. A gale had driven the Albion close upon 
 the Irish coast, but an offing might have been gain- 
 ed, had the attempt been made in time. Unfortu- 
 nately the captain delayed till it was too late, trust- 
 ing to make Liverpool next morning, and, when he 
 did endeavour to escape, by carrying a press of sail, 
 his masts went by the board, and the ship drifted on 
 the rocks of Kinsale, where almost every individual 
 perished. 
 
 The routine of a sea-life is subject to little varia- 
 tion. Our cabin-j)arty consisted only of five, this 
 being a season of the year when a stormy passage is 
 commonly anti(i]»ated. The weather was cold, and 
 the wind most unpropitious. On the third day we 
 were ftivoured with an unexpected addition, by the 
 discovery of a passenger amongst the hay provided 
 for our live-stock. lie had managed to secrete him- 
 self while the ship was in dock, and, having lived
 
 GALES AT SEA. 13 
 
 very much like bruin by sucking his paws, was suffi- 
 ciently wo-begone when brought to light, and by no 
 means cordially welcomed by the captain, who is 
 bound, before getting rid of such volunteers, to grant 
 security at New York that they shall not become 
 burdensome as paupers. 
 
 For twenty long days we contended with heavy 
 gales a-head, and the eccentric movements, occasion- 
 ed by the rolling of the ship, were sufficiently divert- 
 ing to those who could preserve an equilibrium, or 
 maintain their post at table. After a time, however, 
 I was able to admire the mechanism and manage- 
 ment of the ship, stemming the mighty waters of the 
 Atlantic, and began to enjoy the novelty of my si- 
 tuation. It is difficult to describe the thrill which 
 the landsman feels, as he contemplates a billow, 
 many feet higher than the deck, rushing onward in 
 its irresistible course, and threatening to overwhelm 
 the ship, while yet he finds, in the anxious moment 
 of collision, that, far from being engulfed, he is borne 
 aloft in delightful buoyancy, plunges into the deep 
 valley beyond, and mounts again the rolling waves 
 in endless succession. Still it is to him a sensation 
 not unaccompanied with anxious thoughts, and he 
 feels himself compelled to reflect how little there is 
 between him and a watery grave. The prismatic co- 
 lours so frequently observed by day, and the bril- 
 liant pliosphorescence which flashes from the spray 
 by night, are subjects of interest and wonder to the 
 voyager. The latter eff'ect produced by the motion 
 of the vessel, or by the agitation of a storm, is sin-
 
 14 LUiMINOUSNESS OP THE OCEAN. 
 
 gularly beautiful. It is generally ascribed by natu- 
 ralists to phosjdioric aniinalcula. On the night of 
 the 30th, a heavy gale blowing from the south-west, 
 I was called on deck by Captiiin B., to witness this 
 appearance, in a degree which, he said, was rare. 
 The ship was rnniiing about nine knots an hour, and 
 cut her way through liquid fire. The spray from 
 her bow seemed one sheet of light, while the broken 
 surface of the ocean, for miles around, glistened with 
 like splendour. It was an impressive scene, the re- 
 collection of which is not to be easily effaced. Our 
 voyage continued tedious and uncomfortable with re- 
 gard to weather, and little occurred to vary the 
 scene. For days together the weather was such as 
 to prevent the captain from taking an observation. 
 One morning a vessel appeared on our weather-bow, 
 which seemed to have suffered much from the storm, 
 and we lay-to for some hours, until she came under 
 our stern. She proved to be the British mail-packet 
 Reindeer, bound for Halifax and Bermudas, out 
 thirty-seven days, and had lost foremast and bow- 
 sprit, in the heavy gales which we had lately en- 
 countered. They were busied in rigging a jury- 
 foremast, seemed to have a stout crew, and their 
 captain declined any assistance.
 
 ( lo ) 
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 
 Arrival off Sandy Hook— City of New York — Excellent ac- 
 commodation of Bunker's Hotel — American Society— 
 Thorburn's Seed-store. 
 
 On the 5tli of April, our fortieth day at sea, we 
 made the high land of Jersey and Staatens Island, 
 and a joyful sight it was ; for, as was long' ago ob- 
 served, a ship, in the most favourable view, is but a 
 prison afloat, with the agreeable contingency of be- 
 ing- drowned. 
 
 The Americans keep a sharp look-out for news 
 from Eiu-ope, and more than one newspaper has a 
 fast-sailing cutter constantly cruising off Sandy- 
 Hook, to intercept the packets or other vessels. We 
 were boarded, about sixteen miles off-land, by one 
 of these quid mines, and, having given him our jour- 
 nals, we had the satisfaction of finding that, tedious 
 as our voyage had been, we had beat the New- 
 York, a packet which had sailed four days before us, 
 and also the Thomas Dickason, a crack ship, which 
 left the Mersey along with ourselves. 
 
 The scenery of the American coast is rather tame 
 at this point ; but the Bay of New York, after pass- 
 ing the Forts, is magnificent, and the approach to 
 the city very fine. We got ashore about three 
 o'clock, and were conveyed, in a particularly clean
 
 16 ACCOMMODATION OF BUNKER's HOTEL. 
 
 and neat hackney-coach, to the Mansion-House Ho- 
 tel in Broadway, kept by Mr Bunker. 
 
 I was struck with the superior character of tlie 
 hackney liorses to those of our cities, and I may add 
 also of those in cars and wag-gons. They were all 
 in excellent plight, and the latter, if not equal in size 
 to those in English drays, infinitely surpassed them 
 in action. The hackney-coach fares in New York 
 are high, and are moreover annoying to strangers, 
 from the practice of paying for each passenger, when 
 exceeding one, and also for luggage. New York is 
 well provided with hotels of every degree. Our ac- 
 commodation at Bunker's was excellent. The house 
 is extensive, though not so much so as the City Ho- 
 tel, where two hundred beds are made up ; and the 
 style of living appears to me sufficiently convenient 
 and agreeable. Besides occasional guests, you meet 
 with a certain number of permanent boarders, some- 
 times whole families remaining for weeks together, 
 with whom strangers enjoy the utmost facility of 
 forming an acquaintance ; and, as it frequently hap- 
 pens that some of the inmates are members of Con- 
 gress or of the State Legislatures, and that most of 
 them are men of superior information, an opportu- 
 nity is afforded of acquiring knowledge regarding 
 the institutions and habits of the people, highly to 
 be prized. 
 
 Tlie Americans appeared to me perfectly accessi- 
 ble, and quite ready to give counsel or assistance to 
 all who were disposed frankly and cordially to ac- 
 cost them. Before I was two days in the hotel, I
 
 ACCOMMODATION OF BUNKER's HOTEL. 17 
 
 could reckoa several very kind friends, acquired en- 
 tirely in tlie ordinary intercourse of the day, with- 
 out any formal introduction, and was not only fur- 
 nished with routes for my future guidance, but re- 
 ceived kind and pressing invitations to visit various 
 individuals in the course of my tour. 
 
 The public rooms in the hotels, consist of one or 
 more furnished drawing-rooms, where you receive 
 visitors, assemble before meals, or spend the even- 
 ing with music, &c. Single gentlemen, unacquaint- 
 ed or unconnected with any lady of the party, ap- 
 peared to me hardly expected to join the drawing- 
 room circle, although there is no exclusion, nor any 
 difficulty, when one is so inclined, in finding admis- 
 sion. 
 
 The dining-room is, of course, large, commonly 
 two apartments thrown into one, and capable of be- 
 ing enlarged or contracted at pleasure. In Bunker's, 
 I admired an ingenious communication with the kit- 
 chen, by means of a stair concealed under a large 
 sideboard, from one end of which the good-humour- 
 ed shining phiz of a black waiter was ever and anon 
 emerging with some savoury dish. The bar-room 
 and open gallery or verandah are the only scenes of 
 smoking to be met with in respectable hotels. A 
 book is kept in the bar, where arrivals and depart- 
 ures are regularly recorded, and which frequently 
 enables friends to trace each other with much conve- 
 nience. 
 
 The hotels are well fitted up, the bed-rooms not 
 very large, but clean and comfortable, and, in 
 
 B
 
 18 ACCOMMODATION OF BUNKER's HOTEL. 
 
 Bunker's, we found excellent warm-batlis. Our 
 board was 2 dollars, or 9s. per day, for which we 
 had breakfast, dinner, tea, and supper, Avith a bed- 
 room. Our fare was excellent. Fish and fowl, 
 rump steaks, sausages, omelets, &c. &c. are kept in 
 constant requisition, and ample justice is done to 
 them, with a dispatch somewhat startling to a 
 stranger. At this time shad reigned supreme at 
 our breakfast, as striped bass did at our dinner- 
 table, both uncommonly delicate varieties of fish. 
 
 To those who have formed an estimate of Ameri- 
 can hotels from certain modern tourists, I am aware 
 that my report may wear the aspect of partiality, yet 
 I feel a pleasure, while I consider it a duty, with per- 
 fect indifference and candour, to state the impression 
 made upon myself, and the results of my own expe- 
 rience and observation. 
 
 In treating of America, the man who would do 
 lier justice must have in constant remembrance the 
 extraordinary advances and improvements, which 
 even a year or two in this country produce. In the 
 hotel where I now lived, an English gentleman in- 
 formed me, that only a few years ago, not more 
 than two or three single bed-rooms could be found, 
 whereas it is now entirely the reverse, and the 
 change, in ordinary road taverns, is alike remarka- 
 ble. We have been accustomed to hear a great deal 
 of the saucy or sulky demeanour of the attendants. 
 Not a solitary instance of the kind occurred in my ex- 
 perience, and I found all my personal wants quite as 
 regularly attended to as I could possibly desire, both
 
 ACC03IM0DATI0N OF BUNKER'S HOTEL. 19 
 
 in New York and elsewhere ; with this agreeable dis- 
 tinction, that you are relieved of those vexatious ex- 
 tortions which assail you, as " riders to the bill," in 
 every British hotel. The attendants, except in the 
 Slave states, are almost always free persons of colour, 
 and 1 believe the repugnance felt to the designation 
 of servant, arises from some latent ill-defined dread 
 of being mistaken for slaves. 
 
 The porter of the hotel receives a small remunera- 
 tion, having not only to run errands, but to do some 
 heavy work in removing the luggage, of which the 
 superfluous portion, or what is not in immediate re- 
 quisition, is carefully deposited in a room allotted to 
 that purpose. 
 
 That matters are conducted very differently fi*om 
 what we are accustomed to meet with, in our own ad- 
 mirable houses of entertainment, I readily admit; but 
 I cannot, upon the whole, allow that the absence of 
 snug parlours or mahogany boxes, is attended with 
 those very fatal effects to comfort and good living, 
 which some smart writers would have us to believe. 
 One grievance perpetually served up is, the shock- 
 ing inconvenience of travellers being obliged to 
 conform to the regular hours of a public table, a 
 truth which amounts precisely to nothing, these 
 hours being invariably calculated to suit the motions 
 of public conveyances, by which travelling is almost 
 exclusively accomplished in America, and because 
 there is no difficulty in procuring private rooms or 
 extra meals, when circumstances really oblige you to 
 call for them. 
 
 b2
 
 20 AMERICAN SOCIETY. 
 
 Another very pretty topic of abuse is the whoh' 
 sale ablution system carried on in the tavern bar-rooms, 
 with tlie accompaniments of a comb and hair-brush, 
 suspended pi'o bono publico. The climate, in sum- 
 mer, renders wasliing- at every stage extremely 
 comfortable, during the few minutes employed in 
 changing horses, and a basin and towel are placed at 
 liand for the purpose. It is only In venf humble 
 quarters, indeed, that you cannot command these 
 comforts in your own bed-room, Avhere you stop for 
 the night; and, although certainly the above articles 
 would not present themselves unless they were in 
 use, I scarce recollect observing a single traveller 
 without his pocket-comb. 
 
 I shall make at present no further remarks upon 
 American accommodations, intending to recur to 
 them during the progress of my tour. 
 
 New York has been so often and so well describ- 
 ed, that it is unnecessary to speak in detail of its 
 public buildings and institutions. It is a fine com- 
 mercial city, with a population of nearly 200,000, 
 carrying on an immense traffic with the whole world. 
 The celebrated Broadway somewhat disappointed 
 me. Its length is certainly very great, and hand- 
 some public buildings, private mansions, hotels, and 
 well furnished shops or stores, are curiously inttir- 
 mixed; while its whole length and breadth are alive 
 with carriages and waggons, equestrians and pedes- 
 trians of every rank and of almost every hue. Still, 
 it did not equal the expectations which I had been led 
 to form.
 
 THORBURNS SEED-STORE. 21 
 
 I could say much, were it proper, of the hospita- 
 lity of New York, and of the unostentatious kind- 
 ness with which my letters of introduction were re- 
 ceived. The style of living is elegant and comfort- 
 able, and the domestic circles which I had the plea- 
 sure of joining seemed truly unaflFected and happy. 
 The quiet, modest, and amiable tone of female so- 
 ciety particularly pleased me. 
 
 I frequently visited the 5eec?-5fore of Mr Thorburn, 
 a character of some celebrity, and of great originali- 
 ty, being, as he informed me at our first interview, 
 the " very identical Lawrie Tod,'' and that so far as 
 the first volume of that entertaining work goes, Gait 
 had exactly recorded his life and adventures. Be- 
 sides other sources of enjoyment, Mr Thorburn is 
 distinguished for a lively and unfailing reliance upon 
 a special overruling Providence, not a blind fatalism, 
 but a conviction that, in all the crosses of life, a 
 blessing will be found by those who faithfully seek 
 it. He detailed many singular illustrations of this 
 doctrine in his own history, and altogether gratified 
 me much by his acquaintance. His original profes- 
 sion was that of a nail-maker at Dalkeith, and by 
 that alone he looked for a livelihood in the New 
 World. Soon after his arrival, however, this handi- 
 craft was annihilated by the introduction of machine- 
 ry, and poor Thorburn was driven to open a small 
 grocery store for subsistence to Phemie and himself. 
 It was his practice to visit the butcher-market at a 
 late hour, that he might pick up a cheap morsel, and 
 observing a man offering plants for sale in pots, and
 
 22 tiiorburn's seed-stohe. 
 
 seemingly like himself nither low in the world, Thor- 
 bm'n accosted him. He proved to be a follow coun- 
 tryman, an industrious, but rather unsuccessful, mar- 
 ket gardener, of the name of Inglis, from Kirkcaldy ; 
 and, i'rom a sort of commiseration, Thorburn bought 
 a rose-geranium, intending it to ornament his shop. 
 At this time he scarce knew a geranium from a cab- 
 bage. Pleased with his purchase, wlien hegot home 
 lie painted his pot a gay green, and placed it in his 
 window. " And now," says he, when he told me 
 his story, with his eyes twinkling, " mark the kind- 
 ness of Providence. The day after my geranium 
 appeared in its new pot, a lady happening to drive 
 |)ast, remarked its beauty, and not only bought it at 
 a handsome price, but gave me such ordei'S as ena- 
 bled me to open a busy trade with poor Inglis. My 
 shop soon became more celebrated for plants than 
 for tea and tobacco; and many inquiries having been 
 made for garden-seeds, I procured an assortment, 
 and gradually extended my concern until I reached 
 the possession of the handsome premises and flourish- 
 ing trade which 1 now enjoy." 
 
 Some of his details, regarding the devastation oc- 
 casioned by the yellow fever, were extremely inte- 
 resting, lie has a very beautiful seed-shop, aviary, 
 and greenhouse, &c. in the centre of the city, for- 
 merly a Quakers' meeting-house and school, where 
 he seems to drive a thriving trade. The ladies of 
 New York are fond of flowers, and use them much 
 in dress. Camellias are in great request, and some- 
 times sell so high as three dollars a-head, the ordi-
 
 thorbubn's seed-store. 23 
 
 nary price being one ; and large orders are given for 
 every party. I learned also, from a Scotchman in 
 Mr Thorburn's employment, whose family had suf- 
 fered heavily from sickness last winter, that camel- 
 lias and parties by no means engross the sole atten- 
 tion of the ladies of New York. He assured me, 
 that, within his own observation, it was quite won- 
 derful what they conti'ived to do, in visiting, cloth- 
 ing, and attending to, the poor. This man left Glas- 
 gow in great destitution about a year ago. He is 
 now in comfortable circumstances, and his family 
 provided for; but the first fortnight which honest 
 Saunders Lee spent in New York, a total stranger, 
 without money or engagement, he described, with a 
 shudder, like a fit of the ague, as ^^ perfectly aivfuW
 
 ( 24 ) 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Steam Voyage up the Hudson — The Dinner on Board — State 
 Prison of Sing Sing — i\Iilitury College of West Point — City 
 of Albany — Senate and House of Assembly — Superiority of 
 the American Breed of Horses — Albany Museum — American 
 Character for Inquisitivcness. 
 
 At seven o'clock a. m., upon the 12tli of April, 
 we embarked in the Nortli America, a splendid 
 steam-boat, of which the Americans are justly proud, 
 to proceed up the Hudson to Albany, a distance of 
 145 miles. The morning was rather cold, and a 
 strong breeze blew down the river, wind, and tide, 
 and stream being all against us, notwithstanding of 
 which, the irresistible power by which we were im- 
 pelled, landed us in Albany within fourteen hours. 
 It is difficult for those who have never seen an Ame- 
 rican steam-boat, to conceive its elegance and com- 
 fort. They are handsomely fitted up, well furnished, 
 and a capital table is kept, wliile the total absence of 
 coal-smoke leaves every thing tidy and clean. The 
 North America is a day-boat, that is, she performs 
 her voyage between sunrise and sunset, a circum- 
 stance of which travellers ought to be aware, as they 
 deprive themselves of the enjoyment which the 
 highly interesting scenery of the Hudson aflfords.
 
 STEAM VOYAGE UP THE HUDSON. 25 
 
 should tliey chance to go unawares by an evening 
 boat. This fine vessel is propelled by two engines 
 of ninety horse-power each ; the steersman, from an 
 elevated platform in the fore-end, guides the vessel 
 by ropes, which communicate with the rudder ; a safe 
 and admirable contrivance, universally employed in 
 America, enabling the person at the helm to com- 
 mand an uninterrupted view of the ship's course, and 
 to escape many dangers which might otherwise oc- 
 cur. The North America has a magnificent public 
 cabin, with suitable private accommodation for ladies. 
 Her length is about 225 feet, and her breadth 60. 
 There are a lower and upper deck for promenading, 
 with an awning when the sun is powerful, and, in 
 short, every luxury and comfort which the best ho- 
 tel could afford, not forgetting the barber s sJwp, 
 whei'e the master informed me he had frequently the 
 honour of taking fifty gentlemen by the nose in one 
 forenoon. This ancient craft, so greatly degenerated 
 in our own country, seems to be here in its very ze- 
 nith. Innumerable are the party-coloured poles in 
 every town, indicating the barber's shop, and, the 
 general practice being favourable to their calling, they 
 are in great request. I observed, in New York, one 
 of the sides of the shop fitted up with pigeon-holes, 
 where stood the labelled soap-boxes of Mr A, Mr 
 B, &c., indicating steady customers. The steam- 
 boats and large hotels have generally a barber as 
 part of the establishment, and I found them every 
 where maintaining the old professional character of 
 cleanly, civil, and obliging gossips.
 
 26 STEABI VOYAGE UP THE HUDSON. 
 
 Tlio fare to Albany is only 9s., with a very mo- 
 derate charge for meals. Of course, it is a favourite 
 mode of conveyance, and the company is not always 
 remarkably select. The steward told me that he had 
 900 passengers to breakfast and dinner one day last 
 summer, and that 500 or 600 are frequent. With 
 such a multitude some confusion must unavoidably 
 occur, however excellent the arrangements, and 
 these appeared to me to be very complete. Upon 
 this occasion I think we sat down about 200 at ta- 
 ble ; many homely enough in appearance, but no- 
 thing either rude or revolting came under my notice. 
 
 I was seated at dinner between Judge S , a most 
 
 intelligent man, and of much repute as a lawyer, and 
 a plain Massachuretts farmer. We soon got enga- 
 ged in agricidtural conversation, for the judge was 
 well versed in these matters, and afforded much use- 
 ful advice and information to the professional farmer 
 and his friends. After dinner he entered into more 
 general discussion, ruiniing over the different States, 
 and pointing out to me what he considered their re- 
 lative advantages and drawbacks. He thinks well 
 of Ohio and some parts of Indiana for European set- 
 tlers, and strongly advised me, if I thought of a pur- 
 chase, to prefer a farm already, in some measure, 
 improved, and to be upon my guard against design- 
 ing persons, who are every wh(;re on the look-out 
 for strangers. He assured me that a good under- 
 standing with Great Britain was daily gaining 
 ground in the States, and that the idea prevailed, 
 that if the two nations stand by each other, they may
 
 STEAM VOYAGE UP THE HUDSON. 27 
 
 rule tlie world. This gentleman enjoys a good pri- 
 vate fortune ; otherwise his case would be a hard 
 one. A very extraordinary law, peculiar, I believe, 
 to the State of New York, enacts that judges shall 
 retire upon attaining the age of sixty, and thus not 
 only may, but frequently must, return to the bar, not 
 a dollar of pension being allowed them when thus 
 compelled to resign. Mr S. was in this predicament, 
 and the country sacrificed the talents of a very able man, 
 just at a period of life when his legal experience as a 
 judge became of peculiar value. It is a preposterous 
 arrangement, and may even be imagined at variance 
 with the purity and independence of the bench. 
 
 I had a long chat with the Massacliusetts farmers, 
 who had been at New York with a drove of fat oxen, 
 weighing about 75 stones (14 lb. to the stone) each, 
 and for which they had got about L.22 a-head. 
 They were in very high spirits, as every thing was 
 bearing a high price. Their sheep are Saxon and 
 Merino, and they had refused 2s. 8|^d. or 73 cents per 
 pound for their wool, while last year they considered 
 themselves well paid with 2s. Id. or 50 cents. They 
 raise fine crops of turnips, and rear many sheep. A 
 ewe fetches this season 9s., while last year she 
 brought only 4s. 6d. They pay a sheep-doctor 27s. 
 each 100 sheep per annum for his attendance, and 
 this man devotes himself to sheep alone, never in- 
 terfering with any other stock. He came out to 
 them from England. 
 
 Our dinner table was supplied with a profusion of 
 good things, well cooked, and neatly served up.
 
 28 THE DINNER ON BOARD. 
 
 The captain takes the head of the table, the ladies 
 who have no gentlemen along with them being al- 
 ways under his special charge ; and, however large 
 the party, or however mixed the company, scrupu- 
 lous deference is paid to the accommodation of the 
 fair ; and, I am confident, the most unpolished farmer 
 would suffer any inconvenience rather than interfere 
 with a lady's comfort. 
 
 The fare from New York to Albany, 145 miles, 
 is, as before observed, two dollars, or 9s., and the 
 charge for an excellent dinner 2s. 3d. or half a dol- 
 lar, including brandy, whisky and Hollands, placed 
 upon the table, at the discretion of the company, a 
 latitude which, I may here observe, was never abused, 
 upon this or any other occasion, throughout my tour. 
 The scenery of the Hudson, between New York and 
 Albany, is probably not to be surpassed in romantic 
 beauty by ,'my river-scenery in the world. About 
 forty miles above New York, the river emerges from 
 the high lands, and, for 100 miles above that, the 
 eye is gratified by a succession of lofty mountains, 
 and bold rocky headlands, clothed in wood, — towns, 
 villas, farms, &c. in perpetual succession. The river 
 itself is a noble object, covered with innumerable 
 sloops and steamers, sometimes making abrupt turns 
 amongst the rocks, and again stretching out like a 
 peaceful lake. The woods were yet bare of foliage, 
 and the day so cold and bleak, as to freeze the spray 
 upon the deck ; still, it was impossible for any ad- 
 mirer of nature, to view the scenery of this day's 
 voyage, without the deepest interest and delight.
 
 STATK PRISON OF SING SING. 29 
 
 It would be easy to enlarg-e upon many interesting- 
 objects which present themselves between New York 
 and Albany, but the ordinary guide-books have made 
 these perfectly familiar. 
 
 Sing Sing, a new state prison, is seen upon the 
 east bank, a few miles above New York. Silence 
 reigns supreme within its walls, and forms the great 
 and eflFective engine of punishment. The prisoners 
 labour in gangs, but not a whisper is allowed, and, 
 at night, each returns to his solitary cell, where his 
 only, but invaluable resource, awaits him, in the 
 pages of Holy Writ. 
 
 West Point, about fifty miles above New York, is 
 finely situated upon a lofty eminence, and is the 
 station of an extensive Military College, educating 
 about 250 cadets. This place must ever be associated 
 with painful and affecting recollections, when recog- 
 nised as the spot where the gallant but misjudging 
 Andre, was inveigled, by the traitor Arnold, into a 
 guilty correspondence, forfeiting his life, and, in a 
 certain degree, tarnishing his honour; while, at the 
 same time, the noble heart of Washington was rent 
 with the bitterest pangs, from the painful duty im- 
 posed upon him. He saw and acknovv-ledged the gene- 
 rous feelings which led poor Andre astray, and sigh- 
 ed under the stern necessity which compelled him to 
 deny a soldier's death to this unhappy youth, doomed, 
 by the laws of war, to an ignominious gibbet. 
 
 We reached Albany about nine, and were soon 
 comfortably established in Cruttenden's hotel, ad- 
 joining to the State House on Capitol Hill.
 
 30 CITY OP ALBANY. 
 
 Albany is an ancient city in American chronology. 
 It is the c.ipital of the State of New York, and the 
 seat of the State Government, though now g-reatly 
 eclipsed by The City, as New York is emphatically 
 termed. A great proportion of internal commerce 
 centres in Albany. The Grand Erie, and the Cham- 
 plain, or Northern Canal, both find their outlet here, 
 and numerous very large steam-boats ply to New 
 York. The population of Albany is about 1G,000. 
 The tide runs nearly to Troy, about six miles above. 
 In contemplating the commercial enterprize, the buzz 
 of busy men, the large warehouses and stores, the 
 variety of equipages, waggons, stage-coaches, &c. 
 which are met on every ha?id, as a stranger proceeds 
 through the city, it is impossible not to rcA'ert to the 
 picture so graphically drawn by Jin amiable and 
 venerable authoress, and to contrast its present con- 
 dition with the early days of Albany, when " this 
 city was a kind of semirural establishment, every 
 house had its garden, well, and a little green behind ; 
 before every door a tree was planted, rendered in- 
 teresting by being coeval with some beloved mem- 
 ber of the family ; many of tlieir trees were of pro- 
 digious size, and extraordinary beauty, but without 
 regularity ; every one planting the kind that best 
 pleased him, or which he thought would afford the 
 most agi'eeable shade to tlie open portico, at his door, 
 which was surrounded by seats, and ascended by a 
 few steps. It was in these, that each domestic group 
 Avas seated in summer evenings to enjoy the balmy 
 twilight, or the serenely clear moonliglit. Each
 
 CITY OF ALBANY. 31 
 
 family had a cow, fed in the common pasture, at the 
 end of the town. In the evening the herd returned 
 all tog-ether, of their own accord, with their tinkling 
 bells hung at their necks, along the wide and grassy 
 street, to their wonted sheltering trees, to be milked 
 at their masters' doors. Nothing could be more 
 pleasing to a simple and benevolent mind, than to 
 see thus at one view, all the inhabitants of a town, 
 which contained not one very rich, nor one very poor, 
 very knowing or very ignorant, very rude or very 
 polished individual; to see all these children of na- 
 ture, enjoying, in easy indolence or social intercourse, 
 
 ' The cool, the fragrant, and the dusky hour,' 
 
 clothed in the plainest habits, and with minds as un- 
 disguised and artless. These primitive beings were 
 dispersed in porches, grouped according to similarity 
 of years and inclinations. At one door, were young 
 matrons ; at another the elders of the people ; at a 
 third, the youths and maidens, gaily chatting or 
 singing together, while the children played round 
 the trees, or waited by the cows, for the chief ingre- 
 dient of their frugal supper, which they generally 
 ate, sitting on the steps in the open air*." It is a 
 dream not unworthy of Rip Van Winkle himself. 
 The mighty tide of time is ever rolling on, and such 
 scenes as these must now be looked for in the newly 
 reclaimed regions of the West, or the Canadian 
 Forest, where many an embryo city, destined to rear 
 its edifices, and to diffuse riches and civilization 
 
 * Letters of an American Lady., (Mrs'Grant of Laggan).
 
 32 CITY OF ALBANY. 
 
 around, is at this hour comnit'nciiig' its career, with 
 the savr-mill, the grist-mill, and the wooden wharf. 
 
 The local situation of Albany is very fine, the 
 town being placed upon the declivity of a hill, over- 
 hanging the river, on its western bank ; and the 
 panoramic view from the roof of the Capitol is beau- 
 tiful and extensive, embracing the Catskill Moun- 
 tains, nearly 4000 feet high, clothed with w'ood to 
 the very summit, the noble Hudson, spreading out 
 below, and a fine country on every side. 
 
 I spent the day following my arrival, in a most 
 agi'eeable renewal of friendly intercourse with an old 
 companion, whose acquaintance I had made many 
 years ago, w-hile he prosecuted his studies in Edin- 
 burgh. 
 
 His father, distinguished by the old Dutch title of 
 Patroon of Albany, is still better known by his talents 
 and virtues, which, during a long life, liave secured 
 to him the esteem and regard of all his fellow citizens 
 
 and friends. Mr R r possesses a princely domain 
 
 around Albany, and I felt, in the sincere and cordial 
 welcome of the son, that one of the purest and most 
 heartfelt enjoyments of life, is to be found in the 
 practical assurance of an old friendship having expe- 
 rienced neither diminution nor coldness, from the 
 caustic influence of distance and of time. My friend 
 accompanied me to all that was to be seen in the city 
 and around Albany. Our first visit was to the House 
 of Assembly and Senate, both of which are in hand- 
 some and convenient halls. I remained some time 
 in the Senate, listening, with interest, to the first
 
 HOUSE OF ASSEMBLY. 83 
 
 discussion, of a public nature, which I had heard in 
 America. The matter in hand was of mere local in- 
 terest, being the constitution of a new bank, and the 
 speakers appeared to treat the controverted points, 
 in a candid business-like style. There was little 
 room for eloquence in determining the amount of 
 capital which a country bank should be allowed to 
 possess, and there were no unnecessary or misplaced 
 attempts at rhetorical display. The appearance of 
 the members conveyed the impression of sensible 
 country gentlemen, and I left tlie hall, well satisfied 
 with the mode in which business seemed to be con- 
 ducted. 
 
 The constitution of the State of New York gives 
 the right of suffrage to every male citizen of 21 years 
 of age, who has resided six months in the State, and 
 has paid a state or county tax within a year of the 
 election, and also to men of colour (blacks and mu- 
 lattoes) who have been citizens for three years, and 
 possess a clear freehold of 250 dollars value, and 
 have paid a tax thereon. The Governor and Lieu- 
 tenant-governor are chosen by the people, and hold 
 office for two years. The legislature consists of the 
 Senate and House of Assembly. The former is 
 composed of 32 members, freeholders, who are elect- 
 ed for four years, one-fourth going out annually by 
 rotation. The Assembly consists of 128 members 
 elected annually, in their respective counties. The 
 electors may return any freeholder eitlier to the 
 Senate or Assembly, that may to them seem best; 
 and each member of the Senate and House of As- 
 
 c
 
 84 SHORT-IIORNED CATTLE. 
 
 sembly receives tliree tlollurs a day, during- session. 
 The judiciary power is vested in a Court of Chancery, 
 a Supreme Court, and District Court, with a Court 
 of Error, composed of the Senate, the Chancellor 
 and Judg-es of the Supreme Court ; the Judg-es, as I 
 have already noticed, becoming disqualified at the 
 age of sixty. 
 
 After leaving the House of Assembly, we drove a 
 few miles out of towni, and visited a very fine farm 
 of 600 acres, which my friend occupies himself. It 
 consists chiefly of rich arable land and meadows, on 
 the banks of the river, and it pleased me to see that 
 so correct and spirited an example in rural economy 
 was there dis2)layed, by one whose influence ought 
 to have so much weight in the district. The fences, 
 houses, &c. were in good order, and I saw some very 
 fine improved short-horned cattle, imported, at great 
 expense, from England, and well calculated to bene- 
 fit the country. Mr R r has shown a correct 
 
 judgment in selecting native cows, to mix with the 
 English blood, and has reared one bull, in particular, 
 which I considered even superior in shape to the 
 English sire : this animal was intended to be let out 
 for the season. 
 
 My friend, who was always remarkable for a smart 
 team, enjoys every advantage in America for indul- 
 ging his taste. Scarce had I set foot on shore in 
 New York, when my eye was attracted to the figures 
 of the horses in the hackney-coaches and drays, and 
 every subsequent opportunity tended more and more 
 to delight me with the breed of horses, both in the
 
 HORSES. 35 
 
 States and Canadas. IVIr R r had about twenty 
 
 in his stables, part of them, of course, employed with 
 the oxen in ftirm-work, but all of them, in point of 
 shape, figure, and action, such as would command, in 
 Britain, the highest price given for carriage-nags. 
 A pair of very powerful handsome brown geldings, 
 which we met accidentally in one of his waggons, 
 cost him 200 dollars, or £ 45, and which horses, I 
 am confident, in London, would have readily fetched 
 120 guineas. Some of his saddle-horses were un- 
 commonly neat, and a chestnut colt, intended for his 
 own charger, as general in the militia, was one of 
 the finest and strongest thoroughbreds I ever saw. 
 I may remark, too, that this stud was by no means 
 to be regarded as the expensive hobby of a rich man, 
 for in every part of the country the same superior 
 animals were to be met with, and, from the team of 
 almost any ordinary farmer, horses might be select- 
 ed fit to grace the four-in-hand. The buildings on 
 the farm are of wood, and very commodious; the 
 stables, floored with plank, last for a great many 
 years, and no doubt, in a great degree, train the 
 horses to be steady in boats and on wooden bridges. 
 The bailiff, a very sensible active-like man, has about 
 £45 of money wages, a capital house, cow, and some 
 other advantages. The crops are chiefly wheat, 
 Indian corn, pumpkins grown among the com, oats, 
 potatoes, and meadow-hay. 
 
 After a very pleasant drive, about six miles up the 
 river side, upon a real Macadamised road, which has 
 been completed for that distance, we returned to 
 
 c 2
 
 36 IXQUrSITIVENESS. 
 
 Albany ; and, to wliilo away an Itoiir before g'oing to 
 my friend's to dinner, I paid a visit to tbe Albany 
 Museum. This collection occupies a suite of rooms, 
 in a very handsome building- of white marble, from 
 a quarry in its neig-hbourhood, and contains a fair 
 assortment of specimens in natural history. Here it 
 was my lot, for the first time, to come under the full 
 fire of Yankee curiosity, although I had been al- 
 ready engaged in some smnll affairs of outposts. The 
 only other visitor whom I saw in the museum was 
 a tall thin lad, who, the moment I entered, pounced 
 upon me, and, though with perfect civility and good- 
 breeding according to his knowledge, opened a vol- 
 ley, with " How d'ye do, Sir (very nasal) ; I guess 
 you're from the old country." Quite aware that no 
 impertinence was intended, I readily answered every 
 question, which now poured in nearly as follows : 
 " Mav I ask. Sir, from what part of the old coun- 
 try ? May I ask what port you sailed from ? What 
 ship did you sail in? What might you pay for your 
 passage? Are you going to settle in the States ? 
 What may your profession be ? What is your 
 name ?" et multa alia, to the like effect. 
 
 This inqusitive disposition has been a frequent 
 theme of abuse against the Americans; and that it 
 exists as a national trait, I think no man can honest- 
 ly deny. 1 have met with it every where, and have 
 endeavoured to analyze it fairly and with candour. 
 The conclusion to which I very soon came, and to 
 which I still adhere, acquits the Americans of the 
 most remote intention to be at all uncivil to the
 
 INQUISITIVENESS. 37 
 
 Stranger. Tliey must be viewed nationally!, in some 
 degree, as children; it must be remembered that 
 they live much in retired rural circles ; that they are 
 intelligent, well educated, and ever anxious to ac- 
 quire information, all of which render them, when a 
 foreigner falls into their hands, rather apt to over- 
 step the European bounds of propriety, and many of 
 their questions, which to us appear trifling, bear pro- 
 bably upon points sufficiently important to them. 
 Whatever umbrage too sensitive strangers may take 
 at the freedom of Americans, it is but fair to notice 
 the voluntary restraints which, in some respects, the 
 latter impose upon themselves. An American, who 
 will not feel that he is guilty of any impertinence in 
 taking a peep at a book you may have in your hand, 
 will at once recoil when you open a lettei% or are 
 engaged in writing, although it is sufficiently evident 
 that a mere selfish and vulgar curiosity would derive 
 infinitely more gratification from a peep at the latter 
 than at the former. I enjoyed, also, many a laugh, 
 in the crowded steam-boats, at the overwhelming 
 confusion which I occasioned, by suddenly turning 
 round, when I knew that half-a-dozen poor fellows 
 were straining their orbs to decypher the emblems 
 of agriculture figuring ujjon the buttons of an old 
 Farming Society coat, which I wore in travelling. 
 They evidently felt, that without a little more inti- 
 macy, the buttons were to be held sacred. In my 
 adventure at the museum, dignily perhaps suggested 
 the necessity of immediately turning upon my heel 
 from such an impertinent Paid Pry ; but, what I
 
 38 INQUISITIVENESS. 
 
 tnist may be called good nature or good tact, urged 
 the expediency of mooting the poor follow in his 
 own spirit, and, by answering his queries, I scarce 
 gratified him more than by extracting, in like man- 
 ner from him, a stock of useful information regard- 
 ing the agriculture of New England, where my 
 friend, a shrewd, sensible sample of a Massachusetts 
 farmer, owned a farm of 200 acres. He had come 
 up with me the preceding day, from New York, in 
 the North America, where he had formed one of the 
 party who had been selling their fat stock at New 
 York. I might have cut the matter short at once, 
 and enjoyed the triumph of sending off Jonathan (to 
 use a homely phrase) with a flea in his car ; but un- 
 doubtedly I would myself have been the only suffer- 
 er, and he would very soon have forgot the rebuff 
 which the saucy fellow from the old country had giv- 
 en him. Upon returning to the hotel, and mention- 
 ing my chat with the farmer, my friend Mr C , 
 
 who, from a rosidonce of forty years in Canada, un- 
 derstands the American character better than most 
 people, commended me for the line I had followed, 
 and amused me with an anecdote on the subject of 
 curiosity, which has, I believe, travelled across the 
 Atlantic, regarding a gentleman of the name of West. 
 This traveller, besides the common ordeal, had to 
 encounter an extra batch of inquiries, from the spe- 
 culation occasioned by a M'ooden log. Wearied one 
 day with a most pertinacious host, who had extracted 
 from him his name, his country, profession, route, 
 &c., the traveller positively protested against another
 
 INQUISITIVENESS. 39 
 
 question being put. " Oh ! Sir," says mine host, 
 " I would just like to ask one more." " Well, well," 
 says Mr West, " one more I will answer, and re- 
 member that clears all." " Certainly, sir, many 
 thanks : Pray, how did you lose your leg T " Oh ! 
 my leg ; why it was bit." " Bit ! is it possible f Well, 
 what could have bit it ?" " Nay, friend, a bargain's 
 a bargain, you know : one question and no more was 
 our agreement ;" — thus leaving Boniface in greater 
 perplexity than ever.
 
 ( 40 ) 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Phaeton Excursion up the Banks of the Hudson to Eiiston — 
 Join tlie Stage-coacli for ^\'hitehall — Bad roada — Vilhige 
 of Sandy Hill—TowTi of Whitehall. 
 
 Hav^ixg expressed my intention of visiting a 
 Scotch friend, who has been some time settled upon 
 the banks of the Hudson, about thirty miles above 
 
 Albany, R r kindly insisted upon driving me 
 
 there in his phaeton. 
 
 At Albany I parted for a time with my good 
 friends Mr and Mrs C , who were to proceed di- 
 rectly home to Niagara, where it was arranged I 
 should join them on my return from Quebec. 
 
 Upon Thursday, 15th April, R r called for 
 
 me at Cruttenden's Hotel, and, in company with his 
 relation Mr S r, we rattled away with four spank- 
 ing bays, for Easton, the morning pleasant for the 
 season, and the road, so far as Macadam went, per- 
 fectly unexceptionable. At Gibbonsville, about six 
 miles from Albany, is established a public arsenal, 
 and the location, to borrow an American phrase, 
 seems well chosen for operations in the north or 
 east, as the two canals open a ready communication 
 with the frontiers. At Gibbonsville we were ferried 
 over the Hudson to Troy in a most convenient boat, 
 which received us without unyoking, and conveyed
 
 BANKS OF THE HUDSON. 41 
 
 US cleverly across. The boat was moved by two 
 horses and a horizontal wheel, operating on paddles, 
 in a simple and ingenious manner, the horses per- 
 forming their work like turnspits, or a party taking 
 exercise at a tread-mill. Troy is a considerable town, 
 with a great appearance of lively trade, and some 
 handsome public buildings, especially a new church 
 of Gothic architecture. A few miles farther up, 
 we re-crossed the Hudson by a covered bridge of 
 wood, leading into tlie town of Waterford. This 
 bridge is 1000 paces in length, with a double road- 
 way, and cost nearly £ 16,000. There is a pontage 
 exacted, and a penalty upon carriages exceeding a 
 walk, when going along the bridge. 
 
 Waterford is a sweet village, containing many gay 
 white mar ions, with green Venetians, neat gardens, 
 &c., and tiie scenery around is extremely pleasing. 
 Tlie Hudson flows past the town, and the Mohawk 
 falls in, a short way below, with many wooded and 
 rocky islands in front. From Waterford our route 
 lay nearly parallel to the river, through a well culti- 
 vated country, with many handsome farms, the soil 
 vai'ying in quality, and of inferior value as you re- 
 cede from the river. A gentleman whom I had 
 known in Scotland possesses a fine property on this 
 road, and I resolved to surprise him with a visit. 
 
 We were most heartily welcomed, and only made 
 good our retreat by a promise, if possible, to return. 
 He has found his purchase a very advantageous one ; 
 the land seems of excellent quality, and he has evi- 
 dently made great improvements in clearing, drain-
 
 42 BANKS OF TIIH HUDSON. 
 
 ing, fencing, <S:c. The Northern Canal intersects 
 the estate. He has a comfortable mansion, with a 
 well laid out garden, rather ingeniously formed in 
 the hollow of an old quarry. The Pludson, with 
 many wooded romantic islets, and enlivened by rafts, 
 constantly shooting down some strong rajjids, with 
 high land, well timbered, on the opposite bank, forms 
 the landscape from his porch, where we found the 
 old gentleman enjoying the sunshine of a delightful 
 April day. A few miles after passing Stillwater (a 
 small hamlet and post-office), we arrived opposite to 
 Easton, the residence of my friend. It was now re- 
 quisite to cross the river, which here expands to a 
 very considerable breadth, and, from its placidity, 
 gives name to the hamlet and district. A rather 
 ill-defined track led us through a field, and we de- 
 scended the bank, as I thought, Avith some hazard, 
 to the water edge. Here no handy waterman wait- 
 ed to give us his aid, 'but a catamaran-lihe boat, de- 
 nominated a Scow, long enough, though of a breadth 
 barely sufficient to receive the carriage, was at our 
 service when cleared of the water with which she 
 was half full. I received orders to remain in the 
 phaeton, under the guidance of the coachman, wliile 
 my friends soon baled out a portion of the water, 
 and handled two long poles, by which we were to 
 be put across. The prospect, 1 must admit, was far 
 from satisfactory ; however, having no choice, I had 
 only to submit, and, after a proper plunge and a rare 
 jolt, our well trained active horses deposited us on 
 board, and we committed ourselves to the gentle
 
 BANKS OF THE HUDSON. 43 
 
 current. In due time we reached the opposite bank, 
 and after another scramble, got safely ashore, where 
 my good friend was ready to welcome us. This was 
 the first specimen I had met with of the docility 
 which is almost universal in American horses, and is 
 the natural result of kind treatment. From the mo- 
 ment that these four spirited animals entered the 
 boat until they were required to leap out, a period 
 of half an hour, not one of them moved a hoof. My 
 friend's property formerly belonged to a branch of 
 the Schuyler family, and is beautifully situate on 
 the east bank of the Hudson, consisting of rich clay 
 land, low hills well adapted for sheep pasture, and 
 woodland behind. The house stands not far from 
 the river, and commands a very pleasing view. 
 
 R — r and S r left us in the evening for the 
 
 residence of the latter, about ten miles farther up, 
 at Schuylersville ; and we witnessed another em- 
 barkation in the scow, which by no means diminished 
 my personal satisfaction at remaining a spectator 
 from the bank. I remained several days with my 
 friend, looking at farms in the neighbourhood, and 
 partaking of the kind and easy hospitality which puts 
 a man comfortably and completely at home. The 
 valley of the Hudson is here of considerable breadth. 
 The Northern or Champlain Canal, connecting New 
 York with Vermont, Lower Canada, &c., passes on 
 the west side, at the distance, in general, of about 
 half a mile from the river. There is a large extent 
 of rich flat land upon the eastern bank, rising into 
 low hills and woodlands as you recede ; and, some
 
 44 BANKS OF THE HUDSON. 
 
 miles in the interior, it is intersected by a line of 
 turnpike from Troy, &c. to the north, with a district 
 of settled country, inferior, however, in quality to 
 the river side. Numerous little brooks descend from 
 the hilly ground, affording a copious supply of wa- 
 ter for agricultural, and sometimes for mechanical, 
 purposes. Upon one of these, running through his 
 property, my friend has erected a brewery, which, 
 in the hands of two enterprising Scotchmen, pro- 
 mises to flourish. Sure I am, if superlativeli/ good 
 ale can secure customers, the Easton brewery de- 
 serves to succeed. Ice is applied in a particular and 
 scientific method, which enables the brewery to work 
 when others are in general closed from the tempera- 
 ture of the summer. In returning one evening from 
 dining with our neighbours at the brewery, I was re- 
 galed and astonished for the first time with nfrog 
 cojicert. The night was dark, and we were picking 
 our steps by the aid of a lantern, when the chirrup 
 at once opened on every hand from a thousand 
 mouths. The whole valley seemed to be alive Avith 
 one mass of squeaking voices, which continued 
 through the night without intermission. The bull- 
 frog occasionally sings bass, but this evening he was 
 silent. The noise breaks strangely to a stranger's 
 ear on the quiet hour; and I could not help associat- 
 ing it, in some degi'ee, with the annoying recollec- 
 tion of fever and ague, which will, less or more, con- 
 tinue to prevail until a general system of draining 
 shall tiiin this orchestra. 
 
 Some species of frog grow here and in Canada to
 
 AJiERICAN STAGE-COACH. 45 
 
 a prodigious size. A plain honest Scotsman, Avith 
 whom I travelled some days in Canada, amused me 
 much with his account of them, when detailing his 
 feats in the slaughter of wood-pigeons. " Yoic "ne- 
 ver smv the like 6 the puddocks, sir ; I brought dmvn 
 tJiree dotes at ae shot, and afore I cotdd toK them wp, 
 a muckle deevil, wi a mouth as braid's my loof, gobbled 
 up yin 6 them, roup ari stoup." Mrs R , too, as- 
 sured nie that, from her vicinity to the meadows at 
 the river side, she had no chance of rearing ducks, 
 the young brood always falling a prey to the frogs. 
 Upon Monday the 18th of April, after an early 
 breakfast, I left Easton, and joined the stage for 
 Whitehall, which passed on the opposite side of the 
 river about eight o'clock. I had liit upon the very 
 worst period of the year for travelling in America, 
 and I was therefore led to expect rather rough work. 
 During the winter months the sledge conveys you 
 along with rapidity and ease ; and, in summer, the 
 roads being dry, and having then got their repair for 
 the season, are tolerably smooth ; but in spring mat- 
 ters are certainly bad enough. The American stage- 
 coach, clumsy and unwieldy as it looks, is by no 
 means an uncomfortable vehicle, and certainly with- 
 stands shocks, the least of which would demolish the 
 best article ever launched from Long-Acre. It is 
 suspended upon leather springs of great strength, 
 and carries nine inside passengers, six of whom are 
 seated face to face, and three upon a moveable seat 
 in tlie centre, witli their faces forward, and backs 
 supported by a broad strap. On account of this
 
 46 A.MKKICAN STAGE-COACH. 
 
 middle departmeiit, you enter only on one side. 
 The panels are open, and provided with curtains to 
 draw close when required. The higfragc is stowed 
 away in ample reservoirs hefore and behind, and the 
 only outside seat is a share of the coach-box to those 
 who can maintain their post. For my own part, al- 
 though I tried it, with a strong desire to see the 
 country and to cliat with coachee, I found it ahsolute- 
 ly beyond my skill, after divers attempts, to hold on. 
 In some places it is impossible at this season to use 
 the coach, and passengers are conveyed in long nar- 
 row four-wheeled waggons, with seats suspended, or 
 intended to be suspended, across; for occasionally the 
 board is loose, and makes most incommodious slips 
 from under you in the heavy jolts. The harness is 
 of leather, substantial and good, the coachmen care- 
 ful and most expert, and the horses truly excellent. 
 But it is time to get on. \Mien my baggage was 
 stowed, of which the heaviest portion had been most 
 correctly brought forward from Albany, where I left 
 
 it to relieve R rs horses, I seated myself on the 
 
 box, and away we rumbled. Our pace was slow 
 enough, though occasionally, when a little tolerable 
 road presented itself, the horses exhibited satisfac- 
 tory proofs that, in other .circumstances, no delay 
 would arise from them. We passed through many 
 convenient and tolerably well cultivated farms. The 
 wheat and grass were both looking uncommonly 
 Avell. Merino sheep were to be seen everywhere : 
 the cattle appeared similar to our old short-horns, 
 but they have much need of improvement ; neither
 
 AMERICAN STAGE-COACH, 47 
 
 can I commend the common breed of swine, which 
 are too generally of the long-legged, flat-sided de- 
 scription, reqniring, I am satisfied, as much food to 
 raise one stone of bacon as would yield two in a more 
 thrifty variety. 
 
 From these humble speculations, however, I was 
 roused by the enthusiasm of our coachman, who ex- 
 claimed, upon reaching Schuylersville, " There, sir, 
 is the surrender ground :" alluding to the fate of poor 
 Burgoyne, who Avas compelled at this place to sur- 
 render himself and his army of nearly 6000 men to 
 General Gates, in the autumn of 1777. The whole 
 route from Waterford to the frontier, including Lake 
 Champlain, has been distinguished in American his- 
 tory as the scene of many battles, by land and water, 
 from the days of the unfortunate Montcalm, who, 
 unable to control the savage ferocity of his Indian 
 allies, was forced to witness the cold-blooded butch- 
 ery of poor Monro and his gallant little band, after 
 they had surrendered and received assurance of pro- 
 tection. 
 
 When listening to the details which my friend the 
 coachman gave me with a fair portion of national 
 exultation, I could not but reflect, with some de- 
 gree of wonder, upon the perverse obstinacy of our 
 statesmen, which led them, without a feeling of re- 
 gret, to pour out British blood, and to squander Bri- 
 tish treasure, in a cause which no thinking man 
 would now venture to advocate or defend. 
 
 It is perfectly wonderful, considering the state of 
 the Provinces at the period of the revolution, how a
 
 48 BAD ROADS. 
 
 people SO thinly scattered, and, in every respect, so 
 indifferently prepared for the niig'hty contest, were 
 able to cope with, and finally withstand, the concen- 
 trated powers of Britain. A great human instru- 
 ment was raised up in Washington, a man whom I 
 shall ever revere as one of the most perfect charac- 
 ters which any age of our world has produced. No 
 name stands higher than his in the annals of true 
 fame ; and when we cast into the balance the amount 
 of human happiness which his talents, his labours, 
 and his Cliristian virtues, secured to the boundless 
 regions of the West, there is neither hei'o nor legis- 
 lator who can dispute his claim to be recorded as 
 perhaps the bravest and the best of his race. 
 
 Parties of labourers were, this day, every where 
 employed, repairing the banks of the canal, which 
 was expected to open in a few davs for the season. 
 Often did I wish that the track-boat had been start- 
 ed, for the roads were in many places very bad. 
 " Dreadful roads these," I observed to the coach- 
 man, as he steered us, to my admiration, through 
 pools of mud, and along the edge of yawning ditches.'" 
 " Yes, sir," says he, " but I don't mncli mind the 
 holes, if J onhj hneiv hoto deep they were \' and truly 
 some of them were somewhat difficult to fathom, as I 
 frequently saw our leaders scrambling like cats, out 
 of one clay pit, when our wheelers were descending 
 to the croup in another. 
 
 As it respects the coach and its contents, that we 
 did get through is certain, though, it may be suppos- 
 ed, not vviiiiout some pitching and jolts. The wary,
 
 SANDY HILL. 49 
 
 yet resolute manner, in which the coachman drove, 
 and the uncommon action, strength, and docility of 
 the horses, could not have been surpassed. One 
 compact, gay, little fellow, not above 15 hands high, 
 had been ten years on the line, and seemed yet as 
 fresh and lively as a colt. 
 
 As we approached Sandy Hill, formerly Fort Ed- 
 ward, the country became extremely pretty. We 
 had a fine wooded range of high ground, called 
 Weilland's Mountain, closing the landscape to the 
 east, and the Hudson on our left, descending a shoot 
 of 75 feet at Baker's Falls. There was also a large 
 dam, about 900 feet in length, a short way farther 
 up. The soil was sometimes clay, sometimes *««</, 
 and I observed clay-slate, limestone, and black 
 marble, as we drove along. Sandy Hill is a village 
 of great beauty, with some excellent new buildings, 
 public and private, in the course of being erected. 
 The commanding prospect, and fine air it enjoys, 
 nnist recommend it as a residence. 
 
 It was my intention at this place to have left the 
 stage, and to have visited Lake George, returning 
 here next day, in time to catch the coach from Al- 
 bany. I found, however, that the summer arrange- 
 ments were not yet made ; that the road was in a 
 very bad state, and the landlord, whose kind and 
 anxious exertions to accommodate me I shall not 
 soon forget, advised me, upon the whole, to relin- 
 quish my plan, and proceed after dinner to White- 
 hall. Fortunately, I took his advice, as next morn- 
 ing was so rainy and hazy, that I would have failed 
 
 D
 
 50 SANDY HILL. 
 
 in my object, and the coach-liour being- later than to- 
 day, 1 must hav'e had a night-ride from Sandy Hill 
 to Whitehall, through a road which appeared to me 
 sufficiently hazardous even in day-light. 
 
 After an excellent and comfortable dinner, for 
 which we paid only one-fourth of a dollar, cider, 
 brandy, and Hollands included, we resumed our 
 journey ; our luggage, in the mean time, having 
 been removed, and stowed in an open waggon, as 
 the road from this to Whitehall was not yet in a 
 condition to receive the coach. I had formed, by 
 this time, a very agreeable acquaintance with Mr 
 
 S , a fellow-passenger, bound, as I was myself, 
 
 for Montreal, and we got seated alongside of each 
 other in the waggon, with the shaggy skin of a buf- 
 falo for our cushion. 
 
 Immediately after leaving Sandy Hill, a venera- 
 ble tree was pointed out as the spot where the un- 
 fortunate Miss Macrae fell by the rifle of her Indian 
 guide, in a struggle with another party of Indians, 
 who wished to obtain the reward of safe conduct 
 promised by Captain Jones of Burgoyne's anny, to 
 whom she was betrothed. It is a melancholy tale, 
 and, to this day, forms a subject of deep interest in 
 this part of the country. 
 
 The soil around Sandy Hill is of a fine grazing 
 quality, and the land sells from five to eight dollars 
 per acre. 
 
 A great portion of last winter was unusually mild 
 in this district. A farmer told me, that, upon a cer- 
 tain day of January, when the Hudson below Al-
 
 DREADFUL STATE OF THE ROADS. 51 
 
 bany was covered with sledges, he was unable, upon 
 the same river, to find a passage upon the ice, 50 
 miles farther to tlie north. As we advanced, we 
 became perfectly satisfied of the expediency of 
 changing our vehicle. In many places it was with 
 the greatest efforts that our four horses could extri- 
 cate the waggon. The clay was particularly tena- 
 cious and heavy, the wheels clogged, and, from time 
 to time, our coachman had to dismount, drag a stake 
 from the fence, and clear out the mud, as not a 
 spoke could be seen, each wheel being one solid 
 mass. It will be readily conjectured that our pro- 
 gress was slow. The road went along the margin 
 of Wood Creek, a rapid and considerable river, 
 flowing northward into Lake Champlain. At swue 
 points it had quite overflowed the road, and we 
 floundered into pools and currents. About seven 
 we stopped at a tavern, five miles from Whitehall, 
 to give the horses water (a refi'eshment, by the by, 
 much more frequently, though moderately adminis- 
 tered, than is usual among our coachmen), where I 
 inquired of the landlord how long these five miles 
 might require. " Three hours. Sir," was the reply, 
 in which I certainly considered him to be making 
 merry with our distress. A tedious plunging drag, 
 however, satisfied me that no joke was intended. 
 The evening fortunately was fine, with clear moon- 
 light, and, as every thing has an end, we at last 
 found ourselves jolting over a little bit oi corduroy 
 (a mode of crossing a morass, by laying round logs 
 transversely), and which ushered us, wearied enough,. 
 
 d2
 
 52 TOWN OF WHITEHALL. 
 
 into the town of Whitehall, and to most comfoi-table 
 quarters, in Johnston's, at the Phrenix Hotel. 
 
 For the last two hours the aurora borealis had 
 been flashing in great beauty, and a rainy morning 
 was anticipated by some of the party, as conmionly 
 following that appearance in the sky. 
 
 Whitehall is a small town at the head or west 
 end of Lake Champlain. A good deal of business is 
 done here, especially in the lumber-trade, and the 
 Northern Canal, connecting Champlain and Albany, 
 commences at this point. The scenery aroimd is 
 liighly romantic, varied with the winding of the lake, 
 with precipitous hills and forest scenery on every 
 side. It reminded me strongly of our own Loch 
 Katerine, though, it must be admitted, upon a more 
 extensive scale. 
 
 When I came down, next morning, I found a 
 party in the bar-room, just arrived, after a night- 
 journey through the road we had travelled. They 
 had escaped without any accident; but considered 
 themselves providentially preserved from having 
 been turned over into the river. 
 
 Whitehall is said to suffer from the exhalations of 
 some marshy shallow portions of the lake below the 
 town. One old gentleman, who had been of the 
 night-party, called for a glass of brandy and water, 
 into which he shook a little white powder from a 
 phial, remarking, at the same time, " I always take 
 a little quinine when I chance to stop at Whitehall."
 
 ( 53 ) 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Lake Champlain — Embark in a Steamer for Canada — Ticon- 
 deroga — Plattsburgh — St John's — Waggon-travelling to La 
 Prairie — Execrable State of the Roads — Steam-boat from La 
 Prairie to Montreal. 
 
 The morning, as had been predicted, was rainy ; 
 it cleared, however, after breakfast, and broke up to 
 a fine day about twelve, when the steam-boat arriv- 
 ed from St John's. 
 
 At one o'clock we were informed the boat was 
 ready, having replenished her deck with billets, and 
 her larder with good things ; and having settled a 
 very moderate bill, amounting only to a dollar for 
 two ample meals, and a comfortable bed -room to 
 each of the party, we got on board of the Franklin, 
 a beautiful and commodious vessel, commanded by 
 Captain Sherman, who seemed anxious to do all in 
 his power to make us comfortable. The fare to St 
 John's in Canada, a distance of 150 miles, is five 
 dollars, or 22s. 6d., besides meals, which are very 
 moderate. 
 
 I was agreeably surprised with the scenery, hav- 
 ing been told that Lake Champlain had nothing to 
 b.oast of in that respect. We had a succession of 
 wooded hills, bold promontories, fine farms, pictn-
 
 Oi LAKE CIIAMPLAIN. 
 
 resque cottages, log-huts, &c. and, the .afternoon 
 being delightful, I had the greatest pleasure in per- 
 ambulating the deck. An opportunity was, as usual, 
 afforded of forming acquaintances, and obtaining 
 much local information from fellow-passengers, by 
 which I did not fail to profit. One gentleman, who 
 at parting gave me his card, and a most urgent 
 invitation to visit him, was particularly well-informed 
 and communicative ; he proved to be priest of the 
 parish of Chanibly, in Lower Canada, and I re- 
 gretted very much that it was not in my power to 
 avail myself of his politeness. Another passenger, 
 an American, who left us at Ticonderoga, pressed 
 me to accept a letter of introduction to a brother at 
 Philadelphia, where he would promise me, he said, 
 any attention in his power. 
 
 I mention these matters, because I met with many 
 instances of similar kindness, and felt, that, M'here 
 strangers had been less fortunate, the fault must 
 have too frequently lain with themselves. 
 
 We passed a range of well cultivated verdant 
 farms, on the western bank, in Putnam TowTiship, 
 New York, called the Scots Settlement, containing, 
 I was told, about 1000 inhabitants, and pursuing 
 dairy husbandry to good purpose. Soon afterwards 
 we approached the ruined fortress of Ticonderoga, 
 finely placed upon a beautiful peninsula, with Mount 
 Defiance, 800 feet high, looking down upon it- 
 
 From the summit of this mountain, in 1777, an 
 unlooked-for salutation of artillery at sunrise, upon 
 the 4th of July, that day since so famous in the an-
 
 LAKE CIIABJPLAIN. 55 
 
 nals of America, compelled General St Clair to aban- 
 don the fort, hitherto regarded as sufficiently strong 
 to check the British under Burgoyne, but now to- 
 tally untenable, from the successful attempt to 
 bristle with cannon the summit of Mount Defiance. 
 
 We observed a good many trading schooners, and 
 a ferry at this place across the lake. An extremely 
 picturesque church formed a fine object in the land- 
 scape, and the two lofty mountains, bearing the 
 names of Defiance and Independence, are features 
 alike conspicuous and striking. Lake George unites 
 its pellucid water with the more turbid waters of 
 Champlain, near Ticonderoga, and the gorge of the 
 mountains from which it issues, gives an assurance 
 of scenery well deserving a visit. Essex, which we 
 passed this evening, is a town prettily situate, and 
 apparently in a thriving condition. 
 
 Upon Wednesday morning, the 20tli of April, af- 
 ter a most comfortable night, I came early on deck, 
 sufficiently so, indeed, to witness a beautiful sunrise. 
 The lake was perfectly still, and every tree was re- 
 flected, as on burnished copper ; for it assumed that 
 hue. We had stopped for a short time during the 
 night at Burlington, a considerable town in Ver- 
 mont. This State is famous for rearing live-stock, 
 and a large proportion of the horses required in 
 New York is drawn from hence. It bears a very 
 suitable appellation, as we had been all the evening 
 admiring the verdant and lofty range of mountains 
 which occupy the greatest portion of its surface. I 
 should mention, too, that we passed the foi*t at
 
 56 PLATTSBURGH. 
 
 Roscoe's Point, built by the Americans to command 
 the navigation of the lake, and which formed a por- 
 tion of the disputed territorial line, ultimately sub- 
 mitted to the decision of the King of Holland. The 
 final award of his Majesty formed at this time a very 
 common subject of dispute. It was a matter which 
 afforded ample room for discussion ; and the oidy 
 sound inferences which I felt myself warranted to 
 draw, amounted to a shrewd suspicion that Jonathan 
 had employed rather more active or able surveyors 
 than those who were in the service of Britain, and 
 that the Americans are, in fact, vastly well satisfied, 
 although they deem it necessary to grumble as much 
 as we do at the result. After all, perhaps it is not 
 easy to say more in favour of the Royal Arbiter, 
 than to state the fact, that he has failed in pleasing 
 either party. 
 
 Plattsburgh is a town of some importance, at the 
 mouth of Saranac River. An action was fought 
 here in 1814, both on the lake and on land, in which 
 the British were defeated, Sir George Prevost being 
 obliged to retreat, and the flotilla being captured 
 and destroyed by Commodore IMacdonough. A fine 
 farm of 200 acres, on the banks of the lake, was pre- 
 sented to him, as a public acknowledgment of his 
 services. 
 
 At Isle au Noix we again entered the British ter- 
 ritory, and saw the British flag displayed from the 
 Avails of a very humble fort. As we passed, a small 
 log canoe put off for the letter-bag, one or two offi- 
 cers anxiously awaiting its return, with faces suffi-
 
 ST John's. 57 
 
 ciently expressive of the ennui, which must attend a 
 residence upon this low, marshy, and uninteresting 
 station. The Franklin terminated her voyage at 
 the small town of St John's, upon the river Sorel. 
 It is a place of little importance, except that it is a 
 frontier town, with a custom-house and a collector, 
 who is said to have a very snug berth. Some fine 
 mountains are in sight, especially one of a conical 
 form, called Sir John Johnston's, rising abruptly 
 from the plain, and covered with wood to the sum- 
 mit. A fine bridge of wood, across the Sorel, lead- 
 ing into Vermont by a public road, is another object 
 Avorthy of notice. The rapids, in the river, appear- 
 ed also romantic to a stranger, who had not yet seen 
 the St Lawrence. 
 
 Our first inquiry at the stage-house regarded the 
 condition of the road to La Prairie, which was 
 speedily ascertained to be sad enough. No coach 
 could attempt it ; but two waggons were appointed 
 to convey us and the mail-bags, so soon as the im- 
 portant affair of breakfast was dispatched. In due 
 time our equipages appeared, and a gentleman, his 
 wife, and little boy, Mr S. and myself, led the way 
 in one machine, when the mail and two or three pas- 
 sengers followed close in the other. The day was 
 fine, and our horses all we could desire ; the coach- 
 men seemed both smart, civil, active fellows : and 
 further, it would not have been easy to muster food 
 for travelling consolation ; for, although we con- 
 trived to splutter off in a kind of hand gallop, we 
 had very soon to pull up ; and Mr S. happening to
 
 !">[] WAGGON-TRAVELLING TO LA PRAiniE. 
 
 ask tlie distance to Moiitreal, we received for an- 
 swer, " Nine miles by water ^ sir, and the rest bi/mud;" 
 — a description which our woful experience proved 
 to be too correct. The fare was one dollar and a 
 half, which, in Canada currency, is 7s. 6d. ; a very 
 high charg-e, in this country, for eighteen miles. 
 
 About a mile l)olow St John's, we turned off from 
 the banks of the Sorel (whicli, by the way, bears al- 
 so the names of Richelieu and St John's), and pro- 
 ceeded across a flat and very uninteresting country, 
 for La Prairie. 
 
 We were now among the Hahitans of Lower Ca- 
 nada. The population is almost entirely French : 
 a careful, contented race, and who ought to be su- 
 premely happy, if " ignorance is bliss." The reli- 
 gion is Roman Catholic, and a creditable attention is 
 paid, at least, to the places of worship, the churches 
 being both numerous and well built. The farms are 
 extremely inconvenient, presenting a narrow front, 
 with a depth sometimes two or three miles in extent. 
 The houses, stock, and system of farming, seem very 
 inditferent. The swine, in particular, seemed to be 
 living examples of every bad point which it was pos- 
 sible to bring together. Bees, a symptom of indus- 
 trious economy, were abundant, however, upon every 
 farm. Occasionally we passed a house, compara- 
 tively of a superior description, in front of wiiich a 
 long spar, resembling a Maypole, indicated the occu- 
 pier to hold a conmiissiou in the militia of the pro- 
 vince. The soil is clay, and, in this part of the 
 country, not apparently of the most fertile descrip- 
 tion.
 
 EXECRABLE STATE OF THE ROADS. 59 
 
 Lime, I believe, is almost unknown, in its agricul- 
 tural application. The system of cropping- pursued 
 is sufficiently simple — corn-crop after corn-crop, un- 
 til the land refuses any return, and then abandoning 
 it to nature, to recover some portion of fertility, up- 
 on which the farmer may again commence his scourg- 
 ing rotation. 
 
 We passed a party of road-makers at work, upon 
 the early part of our stage ; they are in govern- 
 ment-employ, and L. 3000 had been allotted for the 
 eighteen miles, a sum which might probably have 
 done some good upon the ninth part of the way. It 
 may be in contemplation to proceed with a like sum 
 in future years ; but, from what I saw, there is too 
 much reason to fear, that, by such piece-meal work, 
 the whole money will be lost, so far as the object 
 was to obtain a good road. What is done this year 
 will be nearly impassable before a second portion is 
 completed, and little or no benefit will accrue, ex- 
 cept to the contractor and his men. 
 
 When we had been dragged through some half- 
 dozen miles of mud, and matters seemed rather to 
 get worse than better, the coachman entrusted with 
 the mail proposed to our driver, that they should 
 leave the improved road, and try the old line. To 
 this it was objected, that the old line was now closed 
 by authority, and that notice had been served upon 
 them of its being shut, and that part of it was ac- 
 tually an enclosed field. The proposal, however, 
 after a little more scrambling, was acceded to. We 
 turned down a sort of by-track, and I had very soon
 
 60 EXECRABLE STATE OF THE ROADS. 
 
 a specimen, wliicli, under evidence sliort of my own 
 senses, would have been hard to credit, of what men 
 and liorses, in this country, will get through. A 
 rough and swampy rivulet lay between us and the 
 gate of the field, which had been shut by authority, 
 and where Ave now saw two stout fellows drawn up, 
 armed with large stakes, to prevent our ingress. 
 The impediment of the brook detained us not a mo- 
 ment ; down we went, plunging to the axles through 
 the water, and up the steep and rushy banks to the 
 gate, where we were brought to a parley. Many 
 high words passed with the farmer, and, as lie had 
 both law and equity on his side, I was prepared for 
 another rough job through the brook, when the 
 guardian of the post-bags, in a most resolute tone, 
 swore he would take the responsibility of shooting 
 any man who stopped the mail, as the other road, 
 from late rains, was absolutely impassable ; and, 
 suiting his action to his word, began to produce his 
 pistol. This formidable hint, to our great amuse- 
 ment, took immediate effect; and the gate being 
 throvra open, we entered in triumph. Our M^aggon 
 still kept the van, and, crossing the ploughed field, 
 we sooji observed a new wattled fence, four feet in 
 height, which explained (as I imagined) the roguish 
 permission given to pass forward, and Avliich we had 
 attributed to the bloody threats of the coachman. 
 Here, however, I again failed in my conjecture. We 
 kept at a steady trot, and, as we approached the 
 fence, and my curiosity was excited to the highest 
 pitch, at a crack of the whip, and " Come, Harry, hoy,'^
 
 WAGGON-TRAVELLING. 61 
 
 addressed to one of the leaders, the horses absolute- 
 ly cleared the fence in true Meltonian styley and we 
 at their tail, waggon and all, pitching like a boat in 
 a heavy sea, and clinging to whatever we could lay 
 hold of, to escape rolling over board. It was an ex- 
 traordinary performance, and, although the first act 
 threatened something like tragedy, the whole con- 
 cluded in the most facetious manner. The coachmen 
 were delighted with carrying their point, and the 
 praises we lavished npon them and their horses ; 
 while the farmer was brought into perfect good hu- 
 mour by some kind words, and a little assistance to 
 repair the fence. 
 
 Nothing further occurred on the remainder of our 
 stage, which, although only eighteen miles, had re- 
 quired six long hours to get through. 
 
 Wlien we reached La Prairie, anticipating an 
 easy and speedy conclusion to our travels for the 
 day, nothing remaining for us to accomplish, except 
 the 7iine miles by water, we found our progress ar- 
 rested from the non-arrival of the steam-boat, owing 
 to a violent gale, which had sprung up, and which 
 equally put a veto on our proposal to take a bateau. 
 The St Lawrence is here of great width, but the 
 banks are tame and flat. The city of Montreal, 
 however, with the fine feature in the landscape, from 
 which the island derives its name, both gratified, 
 and, for the present, tantalized us. La Prairie 
 being a place where no travellers stop, who can get 
 across to Montreal, we had little reason to expect 
 sumptuous accommodation. The family were, how-
 
 62 STEAM-BOAT PROM LA PRAIRIE TO MONTREAL. 
 
 ever, remarkably civil, and made us really very 
 comfortable ; while the bill, which frequently bears 
 no relation, in such cases, to the quality of the enter- 
 tainment, was sufficiently moderate, the whole charge 
 for Slipper and bed-room only amounting- to half-a- 
 crown. 
 
 Next morning I was awakened early by the low- 
 ing of cattle under my window. They were for the 
 supply of Montreal, and had come from Vermont. 
 They were in very fair condition, seemingly about 
 33 stones Dutch, and were expected to fetch about 
 L. 10 or L. ] 1 each. No duty is exacted upon 
 them. The breed resembled coarse Teeswater, but 
 ratlier longer in the horn. The storm of the preced- 
 ing evening occasioned a large congregation of far- 
 mers, cattle-dealers, and others, to assemble in the 
 hostelry of La Prairie. They were at times some- 
 what noisy, but in no degree inebriated or annoying. 
 I was informed that a good many farmers from 
 England, with considerable capital, had, within these 
 few years, purchased land in this vicinity, but, in the 
 opinion of my informant, (who, be it noted, however, 
 was from he-north the Tweed), had not conducted 
 their matters in the most economical or successful 
 way. We found a crowded deck when we reached 
 the steam-boat, a feat which we accomplished along 
 a most ricketty wooden wharf, at no small hazard of 
 n dip in the St Lawrence. We left Prairie at seven, 
 the morning very cold ; and shoals of ice were to be 
 seen stranded upon the opposite bank. Amongst 
 other passengers, we had the stage proprietor, ou
 
 LA PRAIRIE. 63 
 
 the line from St John's, which he has managed for 
 many years. I recounted to him our adventure the 
 preceding day, commending the skill of his men, and 
 the activity of his horses. No coachmen, he told 
 me, can manage that stage, unless they have " grou-ti 
 up upon it ;" he had tried them from the best lines 
 of road in the States ; but they can't get on between 
 St John's and Prairie, it requiring a rare union of 
 caution and courage. His horses cost him from 100 
 to 120 dollars, or from £ 20 to £ 30 each. He en- 
 ters them at five years old, and, by gentle treatment, 
 they speedily become tractable and handy, ready 
 even, as we had witnessed, " (o charge an ox-fence " 
 when required.
 
 ( 64 ) 
 
 CHAPTKR VI. 
 
 City of Montreal — Ice in the River St La^Tence— Markets— r 
 Mr S/s Notes re^ariling the Indians of the Western Coun- 
 try — Excursion by Steam to Quebec — Short Account of 
 the City — Plains of Abraham — Return to Montreal. 
 
 About eight, we reached the wharf of Montreal, 
 and were landed, with some inconvenience, upon 
 shoals of ice, fully twelve feet in height. The city 
 looks very handsome, as it is approached from 
 Prairie ; and the glistening tin-roofs of houses, nun- 
 neries, and churches, give it an appearance of splen- 
 dour, rarely equalled, while the mountain, with its 
 woods and rocks, its orchards and villas, forms a 
 beautiful and romantic back-ground to the picture. 
 Porters, from the different hotels, are always in 
 waiting, when the steam-boat arrives, to one of 
 whom we committed our luggage, and were conduct- 
 ed to Goodenough's, a well-frequented and most 
 respectable Jiouse. 
 
 The arrangements, in our hotel, were much the 
 same as in New York ; a public table, bar-room, 
 sitting parlours, verandah, &c. The party whom I 
 found were generally mercantile men, many of them 
 from the States, and many of them from the Upper 
 Province.
 
 CITY OF MONTREAL. 65 
 
 Tlie business of the season was just commencing, 
 and vessels had arrived at Quebec from Britain, a 
 circumstance, at so early a date (April 20.), unpre- 
 cedented, in the recollection of the oldest merchants 
 of Montreal. 
 
 The steam-boat to Quebec had started, for the 
 first time, a few days ago, and I had reason to be 
 thankful that I had not been forward in time for 
 that trip. The river was still full of ice, and the 
 poor Waterloo getting beset, she stove and sunk. 
 The situation of the passengers was painful and ha- 
 zardous in the extreme. They were all in bed 
 when the alarm was given, and had to rush up in- 
 stantly, as the cabin filled in a few minutes. So 
 sudden was the event, that the engineer could not 
 even stop the engine, and she went down, with it 
 going in full force. A passenger told me that when 
 he got on deck, the captain and rest of the party 
 had scrambled upon the ice, and the vessel not ap- 
 pearing to settle down very rapidly, he ventured 
 again below for his portmanteau, which he succeed- 
 ed in securing ; but had scarce set foot upon the ice, 
 when she disappeared. They had now a dismal and 
 perilous adventure before them, to reach the shore, 
 a circuitous distance of nearly two miles, by scram- 
 bling from one floating mass of ice to another, in a 
 bitterly cold night, and with no fmther clothing than 
 they chanced to have on in bed. No lives were 
 lost, but considerable property was sacrificed, and 
 severe colds caught by many of the party. 
 
 JNIontreal is the chief trading port of the St Law^
 
 66 CITY OF MONTREAL. 
 
 rence,an(l although vessels have hitherto been obliged 
 to clear at Quebec, it is understood that a Custom- 
 House will, ere long, be granted to the nierchants 
 of Montreal. No situation, 300 miles from the sea, 
 can be better adapted for commerce : it must always 
 be the outlet for the largest portion (tf Upper 
 Canada produce, and the most suitable depot for 
 supplying the varied and increasing wants of that 
 fine province. 
 
 The streets are sufficiently regular and airy, and 
 many of the public buildings are handsome, particu- 
 larly the Court-IJouso and Jail, and the Roman Ca- 
 tholic Cathedral, lately erected at an expense of 
 L. 100,000. The material employed is a fine dark 
 grey limestone, susceptible of a good polish, and the 
 brilliancy of the tin roofs has long been a chanicte- 
 ristic feature of Montreal. Tiie shops and houses 
 are generally provided with iron shutters, as a secu- 
 rity, I believe, against fire. It appeared rather ex- 
 traordinary that so little had been done in provid- 
 ing, accommodation for the vessels. I found, 
 however, that this was in course of being supplied, 
 and the facilities of the noble river, didy appreciated, 
 by providing suitable quays. 
 
 Where I am a stranger, I always make a point of 
 visiting the markets. Those of Montreal seem to be 
 well supplied. The beef was capital, voal and pork 
 excellent, mutton at this season, scarce and poor. 
 The price ran from 3d. to 6d. currency per lb. The 
 butchers were remarkably civil ; the firmest and the 
 best pork, they told me, was fed in the States, and
 
 CITY OF MONTREAL. 67 
 
 fattened principally upon maize. In sauntering 
 about, I stumbled upon a large hall, near the river, 
 appropriated to the fish-market. The supply seem- 
 ed most abundant, consisting chiefly of bass, pike, 
 pickerel, eels, &c. : Billingsgate (I may add) seem- 
 ed to be here greatly shorn of its rhetorical flowers. 
 There is of course, a very mixed population. Na- 
 tive Canadians in their grey surtouts, Indians wrapt 
 up in their blankets, English, Irish, and Scotch, are 
 seen bustling along, with priests, and bands of pretty 
 little female choristers, arrayed in white, flitting 
 from church to convent, and, for the^r^^ time since 
 I had landed in the New World, not a few beggars 
 soliciting alms. Tlie poor are liberally cared for at 
 the religious houses, and it was impossible to avoid 
 connecting this appearance of regular mendicity with 
 those lazy habits which are sure to be engendered 
 by gratuitous supplies. The barracks and military 
 parade-ground, seem commodious, but are not conti- 
 g'uous, and the romantic river of St Helen's, opposite 
 the lower end of the town, forms an agreeable sta- 
 tion for the artillery department. I experienced 
 much kindness and hospitality in Montreal. Mr G., 
 amidst all the mercantile hurry of the season, de- 
 voted some hours to a very agreeable ride around 
 the neighbourhood, mounting me upon one of the 
 most active, pleasant horses I ever rode : He was 
 bred in Upper Canada, and would have carried 
 twelve or thirteen stone with any hound. The 
 merchants of Montreal, amidst the frosts of Canada, 
 
 still retain a love for the chace. A small pack of 
 
 e2
 
 68 CITY OF MONTREAL. 
 
 fox-hounds is kept up by subscription, and sometimes 
 affords them excellent sport. A friend of mine 
 startled me a little, by stating, that he occasionally 
 took the same horse ninety miles to cover, and after 
 a day's hunting brought him home a like distance. 
 " Unless you hunt by steam," I exclaimed, " it is 
 impossible." " Why," says he, '* that's the whole 
 secret ; I go with my horse on board the steamer at 
 Quebec, and reach Trois Rivieres in good time to 
 breakfast, hunt with my father-in-law, who keeps 
 a pack, and return to Quebec by the afternoon 
 boat." 
 
 The views from the mountain are extensive and 
 beautiful, and several pleasant villas adorn its sides. 
 We passed through a large farm, belonging to, and 
 occupied by, the priests, who possess a large seig- 
 nory. The soil seems of good qnality, but the agri- 
 culture is slovenly. Orchards are every where to 
 be seen ; and a country rich and fertile on every 
 hand. The population of Montreal and the suburbs, 
 exceeds, it is believed, 20,000 souls. I dined with 
 Mr G. after our ride, with a very pleasant party of 
 mercantile gentlemen. Our Ministers, I found, were 
 in no great favour, from the recent attempt to alt^r 
 the timber-duties, although, from the best authority 
 I could meet with, I must infer that the timber 
 trade is not a prosperous one. The statements made 
 in Parliament regarding the amount of capital 
 vested in that branch, were sufficiently absurd ; yet 
 there can be no doubt that it is very considerable, 
 and that any abrupt alteration to be followed by a
 
 CITY OF MONTREAL. 69 
 
 Stagnation in the export of timber, would create the 
 most serious distress both to the merchants and co- 
 lonists. Much was said of the rapid advances which 
 the Upper Province is making, and of the rising va- 
 lue of property there. I was told of a case which 
 occurred about thirty years ago, where a lieutenant 
 in the array, being L. 50 in arrear to a Montreal 
 merchant, insisted, along with his promissory note, 
 on handing over a lot of land assigned to him some- 
 where in the then Western Wilderness, a security 
 which the poor merchant regarded as much upon a 
 par with the subaltern's note, who was just about to 
 leave Canada with his regiment. The allotment 
 consisted of 1250 acres, upon the Lake Ontario, of 
 which seven hundred were sold last year for Seven 
 hundred pounds, and ^t-e hundred and fifty acres of 
 the best quality reserved. Such are the changes 
 which time effects, without the aid of any other 
 agent, and such cases, I was assured, are by no 
 means rare. 
 
 It having been ascertained that the river was now 
 tolerably clear of ice, the steam-boat was fixed to 
 stai-t for Quebec upon the 23d of April. I was here to 
 part with Mr S., the American gentleman Avith Avhom 
 I had travelled from the banks of tlie Hudson, and 
 I did so with sincere reluctance. His mild and 
 amiable manners, with the rich store of information 
 he possessed, regarding the Western Country, had 
 been a source of daily enjoyment and information to 
 me, and I felt strongly the regret, to which travel-
 
 70 NOTES REGARDING THE INDIANS 
 
 lers luust so often submit, of sliaking a frioiullj' 
 hand with little prospect of ever meetings ag; in. 
 
 Mr S. is one of the two resident agents for the 
 great fur company at Michillimackinac, and had 
 spent most part of last winter in Washington, where 
 he had been no idle observer of public affairs. He 
 seems of opinion, that too many lawyers have got 
 into Congress, and that much valuable public time is 
 consumed in making speeches, oftener perhaps in- 
 tended to gratify their constituents, than to serve 
 the public interest. Mr S. considers General J.vck- 
 son likely to be re-elected, but that a law will soon 
 follow, to incapacitate the same individual from twice 
 filling the President's chair, while it will probably 
 extend the period of holding oflBce, from four to six 
 or seven years, which last would seem to be founded 
 on sound policy, as no man can carry into effect a 
 political system in the present short period oifour 
 years. 
 
 Mr S. has necessarily enjoyed many opportunities 
 of studying the Indian character, and many of his 
 anecdotes were extremely interesting. They are, 
 upon the whole, a harmless race, unless when roused 
 by passion or by ardent spirits, and they display 
 noble instances of bravery and self-denial. It is 
 easy to secure their confidence and friendship, and 
 settlers seldom suffer from them any annoyance. 
 There is an unhappy rivalry between the States and 
 Great Britain to secure their friendship, and certain 
 tribes are now looked upon as attached to each na- 
 tion. A large distribution of presents annually take
 
 OP THE WESTERN COUNTRY. 71 
 
 place. Those of the States consist principally of pro- 
 visions and absolute necessaries, while Bi'itain gives 
 guns, powder, flint, knives, &c., articles which, al- 
 though not of equal benefit, are greatly more prized, 
 aii they can readily be bartered to the traders for 
 whisky and rum. Most amusing scenes of cunning 
 and deception take place on these occasions, the In- 
 dian allies of the two nations manoeuvring with 
 infinite adroitness, to participate in the bounty of 
 each. 
 
 Mr S. gave me an account of an interesting canoe- 
 voyage through the Indian country by Fox River, 
 ft'om Michigan to St Louis on the Mississippi, a dis- 
 tance of about 1000 miles : it occupied him about 
 twenty days, and during that period he saw much of 
 the Indians. One chief, who visited his tent in hopes 
 of obtaining salt and whisky, displayed infinite ad- 
 dress in his endeavours to ascertain whether Mr S. 
 belonged to the States or to Canada, that he might 
 square his demeanour accordingly. The scenery was 
 frequently magnificent ; and game of all kinds, bear, 
 deer, geese, ducks, &c., was in profuse abundance ; 
 the birds were actually so fat with feeding upon the 
 wild rice, it being then the month of September, when 
 it becomes ripe, that they frequently burst on falling 
 to the surface. 
 
 The rapidity with which the great rivers are de- 
 scended, produces a change of climate approaching 
 to enchantment. A gentleman, who had been frozen 
 up in the western country when engaged in the fur 
 trade, weary of inaction, caused his canoe to be cut
 
 72 EXCURSION TO QUEBEC. 
 
 out of the ice, ami getting into the Mississipjji, within 
 eight days from leaving his winter quarters, was pull- 
 ing ripe cherries. 
 
 I left Montreal upon Saturday morning, the 23d 
 of April, in the steam-boat John Molson, named af- 
 ter its respectable owner, who was himself on board. 
 The ice upon the quay had been converted into mud, 
 and I was thankful to embrace the vociferous offer 
 of a habitan to convey me in his little cart to the 
 vessel, a distance of about a dozen yards, through 
 which I must otherwise have waded knee-deep. We 
 left Montreal at nine ; the day was fine for the sea- 
 son, and the voyage proceeded prosperously and 
 agreeably. The scenery of the river is, upon the 
 whole, rather tame, and, except in some places, too 
 expanded to be picturesque, until we approach Que- 
 bec, where the boldness of the banks counteracts in 
 the landscape the effect of the width of the river. 
 Neat churches and neat spires are frequent on both 
 banks. Sorel is the first stopping-place, about forty- 
 five miles below Montreal. The river Sorel or 
 Richelieu here falls into the St Lawrence. There 
 is a small town, fort, and government house, but no- 
 thing worthy of particular remark. Our cabin par- 
 ty was a very pleasant one, and, as we discovered 
 most opportunely after dinner, that it was St 
 George's day, wo behoved to evince our loyalty by 
 some extra drafts upon the steward. In the even- 
 ing we stopped to take in wood at Trois Rivieres, a 
 small town, about half-way, being ninety-six miles 
 from Montreal and eighty-four from Quebec. The
 
 EXCURSION TO QUEBEC. 73 
 
 John Molson was a delightful boat, almost entirely 
 free from that noise and tremour which are so com- 
 monly felt on board of steamers. The motion migh+ 
 in fact be compared to that of the Manchester rail- 
 way. Our rate was twelve miles an hour, with two 
 barges in tow, having 13,000 bushels of wheat as 
 their cargo. I was much pleased upon all occasions 
 with the regular and expeditious manner in which 
 the necessary supplies of wood were conveyed on 
 board and piled in the places allotted to them. The 
 consumption is of course considerable, and in some 
 places the article has already become comparatively 
 scarce. The pine is used between Montreal and 
 Quebec, and an ordinary steam-boat consumes fifty 
 or sixty cords, or about 7000 cubic feet each trip. 
 Wood is furnished upon the St Lawrence for one 
 dollar, or five shillings per cord, which is about one 
 halfpenny per foot, while upon the Hudson it now 
 costs three times as much. Upon the lakes where 
 hickory, beech, maple, and other hard woods are in 
 use, one cord is found to equal three of the pine. 
 
 The evening was delightful, and the moon rose in 
 great beauty, shedding a soft and silvery light upon 
 the river, and, as we had some very tolerable musi- 
 cians on board, the time passed swiftly, and it was 
 late before I prevailed upon myself to turn into my 
 berth. The sleeping accommodations were well ar- 
 ranged in the main cabin ; they were clean and com- 
 fortable, and a curtain with a sliding-rod, very in- 
 geniously contrived, formed a snug little apartment 
 for each two beds. On the following morning, when
 
 74 CITY OF QUEBEC. 
 
 I began to look out, the scene in the cabin was rathef 
 amusing. Amei'icans and Canadians are early risers, 
 and by seven o'clock a general shaving and shifting 
 was going forward in great force. By-and-by we 
 were promenading on deck, and the cabin windows 
 being thrown open, matters wei'e speedily set to 
 rights, and the stewards busily engaged in very pro- 
 mising preparations for breakfast. We had by this 
 time approached the Rapids of Richelieu, which are 
 reckoned a somewhat dangerous part of the river, 
 and a thick fog coming on, we dropped anchor. As 
 the day advanced the sun broke forth, and we re- 
 sumed our progress, which, in a few hours, brought 
 us in view of the bold promontory, upon which is 
 placed the Gibraltar of the North. 
 
 Quebec is certainly a very striking object. " Quel 
 hcc" exclaimed the French mariner, on first behold- 
 ing it, and hence, with a little corruption, we derive 
 its modern name. The scenery down the river, the 
 eye resting upon the Isle of Orleans, and the land- 
 scape enlivened as we now beheld it, with numerous 
 large vessels under crowded canvass, formed alto- 
 gether a splendid picture. Shall I confe>s that in 
 passing " Wolfe's Cove," the achievement of oui- hero 
 lost somewhat of the romantic hue with which early 
 fancy had been wont to paint it? The ascent did 
 not exactly appear so formidable as I had expected. 
 When I visited the spot, however, and examined it 
 more closely, I was better enabled to appreciate the 
 difficulties to be surmounted in mastering such a 
 ravine with troops and cannon during the night. I
 
 CITY OF QUEBEC. 75 
 
 feel persuaded that my first impression and slight 
 disappointment may be traced to the wide expanse 
 of the river, and the magnificent scale of the scenery 
 around. 
 
 Upon reaching the quay we found still many for- 
 midable relics of winter. The ice upon which we 
 stepped ashore was fully ten feet thick, and huge 
 masses of it lay scattered along the beach. What- 
 ever inducements Quebec may hold out to the stran- 
 ger, comfortable hotels are assuredly not of the num- 
 ber. Mr J., of the house of Gates and Company at 
 Montreal, upon whom I had a credit, was a fellow- 
 passenger, as also Mr H. of the Upper Province, 
 with both of whom having formed an intimacy, I 
 accompanied them to a boarding-house in the upper 
 town. Our accommodations fell considerably short 
 of what might have been reasonably expected, but 
 our host and his lady were civil and attentive. The 
 hotels of Montreal greatly surpass in comfort those 
 of Quebec, from the very sufficient reason of having 
 a great deal more to do. The large annual assem- 
 blage of company at Saratago and Balston Springs, 
 near Albany, has established a sort of fashionable 
 tour by Lake Champlain to Montreal, and thence to 
 Niagara, returning to Albany by the grand Erie 
 canal. Along the whole of this route every exertion 
 has been made for the accommodation of the public, 
 and many of the hotels are extensive and particularly 
 well kept. 
 
 Quebec is divided into two towns, called, from re- 
 lative position, the Upper and Lower. The latter
 
 70 
 
 CITY OF QUEBEC. 
 
 occupies a very limited stripe along' the river, at the 
 foot of the lofty limestone cliff, on Avhich is placed 
 the upper town, croMMied by Fort Diamond, so named 
 from crystals interspersed in the rock, and rising 
 about 350 feet above the level of the river. The 
 poptilation is about 20,000. In the lower town are 
 the custom-house, numerous large stores, &c., M'ith 
 all the filth and confudon of a sea-port town, con- 
 fined to a narrow space. The ascent to the upper 
 portion is uncommonly steep, and it is at once singu- 
 lar and somewhat startling, in the busy hours, to 
 encounter a hahitan with his bonnet rouge erect in his 
 cart, and rattling his little horse at a full trot down 
 this rapid descent, without a thought of hazard to 
 himself or to the unwary passenger. IVIany a poor 
 cur, too, may be seen toiling in harness, and dragging 
 a vehicle heavily enough laden up this weary hill. 
 After passing a fortified gate, streets diverge in 
 various directions, by one of which we entered a 
 large and spacious square, of which one side is chiefly 
 occupied by the chateau in which the governor re- 
 sides. The streets in this part of the town are suffi- 
 ciently Avide, and the houses large and respectable ; 
 still the stranger is impressed with a sombre feeling, 
 but very partially relieved by the military costume 
 and the imposing air of a garrison. The society of 
 Quebec is highly respectable : within its circle I 
 found an old and valued friend, whose family made 
 my short stay in all respects pleasant. 
 
 The state of the roads and ice upon the river St 
 Charles rendering it inconvenient to visit the Fall of
 
 PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 77 
 
 Montmorenci, more ample leisure was afforded for 
 examining Fort Diamond, and sauntering over the 
 Plains of Abraham. Government has expended large 
 sums upon the fortifications of Quebec, and which, 
 possessed as they are of the combined advantages of 
 nature and art, must set at defiance, I should think, 
 the utmost efforts of bravery or skill. Among many 
 favourable circumstances, a copious supply of wat«r 
 within the fort is certainly not the least important. 
 The casemates, or large bomb-proof chambers, along 
 the ramparts, are of such dimensions as to permit the 
 whole garrison (4000 or 5000) to parade within 
 them, these halls of destruction communicating by 
 large folding-doors like drawing-rooms ew suite. The 
 walls are forty feet high, and the ditch about fifty 
 feet wide, cut out of the solid rock. The barracks, 
 magazines, storehouses, &c. are extensive and com- 
 modious, and the whole arrangements admirably 
 adapted for defence and mutual support. 
 
 Nothing can be more magnificent than the coup 
 d!ml from the old Cavalier's Battery upon the sum- 
 mit. Far to the right and left stretches the noble 
 St Lawrence ; close underneath is the city, with the 
 wharfs and shipping ; and on the opposite or southern 
 shore rises Point Levi, enlivened by many a gay 
 white building, farms, (Src. Ranging to the east, the 
 eye at once rests on the Isle of Orleans, dividing the 
 river into two nearly equal branches ; and to the 
 north-east is the bold ravine, from whence rushes the 
 Montmorenci, precipitating its waters over a fall 
 240 feet in height. The river St Charles bounds
 
 78 PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 
 
 Quebec, upon the iiortli, and from its banks a rich 
 and cultivated country extends back for several miles 
 to the Indian villaj>;e of Loretto, beyond which the 
 landscape is closed by finely wooded liills as far as 
 the eye can reach. The Plains of Abraham extend 
 to the westward of the city, upon the table-land 
 above the river. The high road to Montreal nearly 
 intersects them ; and on the left, as you leave town, 
 is the race course. Some attention has been paid 
 to this amusement in Canada, and I saw two st<^etls 
 in training, not, liowever, upon the verdant turf, but 
 trashing round and round the great square, upon 
 pavement and roads by no means smooth. One was 
 a powerful bay-horse, got by Filho da Puta, and had 
 cost 400 guineas ; the otber was a favoui-ite mouse- 
 coloured mare (Clara Fisher), bred in Virginia, and 
 of great symmetry and beauty. 
 
 The Plains of Abraham, however, have witnessed 
 more glorious and heart-stirring contests than those 
 of the race-course ; and tiie memory of Wolfe, fall- 
 ing as he did in the very arms of victory, must be 
 ever cherished and revered. The inhabitants of 
 Quebec are of a somewhat motley description. As 
 you pass along its streets, the lively chatter of the 
 native French, the animated brogue of the Emerald 
 Isle, English, Scotch, and even the dialect of the 
 Gael, assail your ear at every turn. Law proceed- 
 ings are conducted in English and French ; and in a 
 short trial at which I was present, the jury was 
 charged by judge and barristers, in both tongues. 
 
 I left Quebec, late at night, upon my return to
 
 RETURN TO MONTREAL. 79 
 
 Montreal, the departure of the steam-boat being de- 
 pendent upon the tide. 
 
 Tlie influx of emigrants at Quebec is very great, 
 and a large proportion landing in a state of destitu- 
 tion, the inhabitants are subjected to a most vexa- 
 tious burden in providing some temporary supjdies. 
 Fifty thousand have been landed at Quebec this 
 season (1831), and probably ten thousand more have 
 passed on to Montreal, without being regularly re- 
 ported. App. No. 3 and 4. 
 
 The weather was fine, and I was again fortunate 
 in a pleasant party. Mr Molson returned with us, 
 having abandoned all thoughts at present of attempt- 
 ing to raise the unfortunate Waterloo. Another 
 splendid steamer, I believe of 260 horse-power, also 
 his property, was to be launched this day at Montreal, 
 to be named the "John Bull ;" and his Canada friends, 
 who seem, by-the-by, ever ready to answer, and slow 
 to baulk, a convivial call, considered it quite inde- 
 corous to pass over such an event without off'ering 
 an oblation to Johns success. We stopped as before 
 at Trois Rivieres ; and while the wood store was re- 
 plenishing, some of the jJarty had a short ramble 
 through the village. It was a delightful evening, 
 and we heard with some regret the bell which sum- 
 moned us on board. One unlucky wight, who had 
 been at first rather tardy in his motions, was com- 
 pelled by a second peal so to accelerate his steps, 
 that, in passing along the plank, whether from inad- 
 vertence or the fumes of our libation to John Bull, 
 he missed his footing, and soused over head into
 
 80 RETURN TO MONTREAL. 
 
 the river. There was fortunately assistance at hand, 
 and he speedily appeared in dripping garments upon 
 deck, whence he was quickly removed to his berth. 
 The sun set this evening with imcommon splendour. 
 In the course of the night we reached Montreal, and 
 at an early hour I got ashore, and resumed my quar- 
 ters in Goodenough's hotel.
 
 ( 81 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Visit to the Upper Provinces— Coach Journey to La Chine— 
 Steam-Boat Travelling on the St Lawrence— Land Travel- 
 ling in a non-descript Vehicle — Canadian Roads — Town of 
 Prescot. 
 
 Time being precious, and the communication with 
 the Upper Provinces being now open, I prepared to 
 leave Montreal, upon Thursday, April 8 *. 
 
 Coach hours are eai-ly in the States and in Canada. 
 We started before 5 A. M., along a very tolerable 
 road, for La Chine, distant nine miles. A canal, of 
 considerable importance to commerce, by avoiding 
 some troublesome rapids, has been formed for the 
 like distance. The surface of the country is flat ; 
 the soil, though light, is apparently fertile ; and the 
 husbandry superior to what usually presents itself 
 
 * However crude the travelling accommodations may yet be 
 in Canada or the States, it is certain that matters are mending. 
 In 1796, Weld could only find two vehicles in Albany, which 
 were in use to be hired to travellers, and these only to be had 
 at a most extravagant rate ; while, in order to reach the Upper 
 Province, he says, " On arriving here (Montreal) our first con- 
 cern was to provide a large travelling tent-camp-equipage, buf- 
 falo skins, dried provisions, &c. and, in short, to make every 
 usual and necessary preparation for ascending the St Lawrence 
 by a batteau to Kingston." At present, I had only to step 
 intothe stage-office and pay for my place, 
 
 F
 
 82 COACH JOURNEY TO LA CHINE. 
 
 in this part of the world ; a circumstance wliich the 
 vicinity of Montreal may in some measure explain. 
 Our coach party proved a pleasant one. We had 
 with us a sort of public chai'acter, in a journalist of 
 the Upper Province, noted for principles, hy some 
 called liberal, and by others denounced as breHthin<f 
 sedition itself. Mr M was now on his re- 
 turn from Quebec, where he had been catering for 
 the columns of " TJie Colonial Advocate" and, among 
 other items, had received the parliamentary papers 
 upon the Rideau Canal, a })recious morceav. for cri- 
 tique and exposition. 
 
 At La Chine we embarked in a steam-boat upon 
 an expansion of the St Lawrence, called Lake St 
 Louis. A capital breakfast was waiting us on board, 
 and we had a very pleasant run of twenty-three miles 
 to the Cascades, where (on account of rapids in the 
 river) we resumed our land travelling. From the 
 bad state of the road we were obliged to use wag- 
 gons, and had a somewhat rougli ride of sixteen 
 miles to Coteau de Lac. The country was settled, 
 and well cultivated. The houses, barns, &-c. were 
 commodious ; and we passed several handsome 
 churches. The population I understood to be chiefly 
 Roman Catholic. At Coteau we again took posses- 
 sion of a steamer, and started for Cornwall, distant 
 thirty-six miles. The road during our last stage 
 was for the most part along the river side, and the 
 noble stream, clear as crystal, with foaming rapids, 
 and romantic islands, clothed in dark pines and 
 other varieties of wood, formed a constant source of
 
 RIVER ST LAWRENCE. 83 
 
 delight, not forgetting the brilliant plumage of the 
 crested kingfisher, every where abundant on its 
 banks. We were now upon Lake St Francis, ano- 
 ther wide expanse of the St Lawrence. It seems 
 to me that there is a pleasant variety in this amphi- 
 bious mode of travelling, and it is so arranged, by 
 suiting our meals to the time spent upon the water, 
 that the utmost comfort and leisure is secured to the 
 traveller. The plan for to-day was to dine on board, 
 and reach Cornwall in the evening, there to remain 
 all night. An old adage has pronounced, however, 
 that there is much between the cup and the lip. We 
 left Coteau with every prospect of a favourable voy- 
 age, but ere we had proceeded many miles we were 
 caught by one of those squalls, which occasionally 
 arise in a moment, upon tlie lakes. Prepai-ations 
 were making in the cabin for dinner, and I was en- 
 gaged in writing, when my attention was drawn to 
 a confused noise upon deck, while, at the same mo- 
 ment, the vessel gave a heavy lurch, with the sensa- 
 tion of a sudden stop. I was immediately called up 
 by a fellow passenger, and, as I ascended, the engineer 
 rushed past me, pale as death, exclaiming, " We are 
 lost /' I did not at the moment comprehend the full 
 extent of our danger, as the alarm arose, not from 
 the squall alone, but from the machinery having be- 
 come disordered, the pumps choked, and an explo- 
 sion immediately expected. All was in confusion 
 upon deck, the captain and mate alone seeming to 
 retain self-possession. A poor Canralian voyageur, 
 who had charge of the helm, fled from his post, call- 
 
 f2
 
 84 STEAM-BOAT TRAVELLIfCG 
 
 iiig in despair upon Sainte Marie for aid. Fortunate- 
 ly, a steady fellow, with betternerves and less faith in 
 saints, had been placed beside him, and succeeded in 
 keeping the vessel's head to the wind. At one heavy 
 roll, a general movement took place in tlie steward's 
 pantry, and nearly a score of bottles, Madeira, 
 brandy, &c. with lots of crockery and crystal, were 
 demolished, with an astounding crash. Bad as this 
 was, too, it was by no means all, for one of those ex- 
 tensive rafts, constructed in winter and moved down 
 in spring to Montreal or Quebec, had gone to pieces 
 just a-head. The logs, now cast loose, were rushing 
 past us in numbers on each side, with a violence 
 whicli must liave inevitably staved the vessel if she 
 had been struck. Neither could we contemplate 
 without dismay eleven poor fellows cast away by the 
 raft. Two or three of tliem, distinctly observed at 
 a very short distance, seemed to be in the last strug- 
 gle; and great was our relief by learning (though 
 not until some days afterwards, at Kingston) that 
 they had all, in a most providential manner, by cling- 
 ing to spars, been carried for several miles, in safety 
 to the American side. For ourselves, by some hap- 
 py change below, the pumps suddenly cleared, steam 
 resumed its office, and, ere we had time to ponder 
 much upon the matter, we were scudding back for 
 Coteau before the gale, which continued to blow for 
 several hours, with unabated violence. 
 
 On the following morning, when I came upon 
 dock, I found that we had taken our second depart- 
 ure from Coteau about 3 o'clock a. nr. The storm
 
 ON THE ST LAWRENCE. 85 
 
 was past, the lake tranquil, and the morning beauti- 
 ful. St Francis had now begun to contract, and the 
 St Lawrence to resume its form. We passed many- 
 romantic islands of various extent, some entirely co- 
 vered with wood, others partially cleared. On our 
 right, and close along the water edge, lay the Glen- 
 garry settlement. A mansion-house, bearing the 
 same name, is finely placed upon a commanding 
 point, but at present is in ruin, from the effects of 
 fire. The settlement is extensive, and the local ad- 
 vantages are such, that, with ordinary attention and 
 industry, the colonists must prosper. The wheat 
 had a most luxuriant appearance, but the general as- 
 pect of the farms betokened rather indiff"erent ma- 
 nagement. It may be very fairly objected, that an 
 agricultural survey from the deck of a steam-boat is 
 little worthy of regard, though a stronger bias cer- 
 tainly prevails with our gallant celts, for the toils of 
 the forest and the chase, than for steady labour at 
 the mattock or the plough. Several of the farms 
 wear a different aspect, and bring their careless neigh- 
 bours into more striking contrast. We breakfasted, 
 as usual, on board, and soon after reached Cornwall, 
 where we were destined to pursue our course by 
 land, for Prescot, a distance of fifty miles, and which 
 it was intended we should accomplish before night. 
 I had travelled in coaches and in waggons, but here 
 a vehicle was in waiting which might be termed a 
 cross-breed. It partook both of the waggon and the 
 coach, and was most incommodiously distinguished 
 by the absence of a door, the window forming the
 
 86 CANADIAN ROADS. 
 
 only mode of effecting- our " exits and our entrances."' 
 A short distance from Cornwall we were brought up, 
 in some very heavy road, by the splinter bar giving 
 way ; an accident which, considering that we had to 
 send back to the town for aid, was repaired M'ith mar- 
 vellous celerity. It soon became evident, however, 
 from this delay, and the general aspect of the road, 
 (a heavy clay floated by rain) that we should not 
 sleep at Prescot ; and it was some consolation to 
 learn that one of the best kept taverns in Canada, 
 awaited us about midway. The part of the country 
 in which we now were, appears to be a good agricul- 
 tural district. The soil varies from a heavy clay to 
 a lighter description, in some places inclining to sand, 
 and would seem to be exceedingly well adapted for 
 a sheep stock. In the States of New York, and in 
 Canada, a fine stool of white clover is ever ready to 
 start up when the land is tolerably clean, and left to 
 rest. 
 
 Our route for the most part lay near the river, 
 and the beautiful scenery (rapids and romantic islands 
 in succession) continued to claim our notice and re- 
 gard. Farms, pretty well cultivated, enclosed by 
 *' warm' fences of split rails, comfortable houses, and 
 fine orchards, were every where frequent, cand fancy 
 could revel on many a spot where the eye of taste 
 would find little difficulty in laying out a noble do- 
 main. Our road was now every mile getting worse, 
 and the Avooden bridges across brooks and ravines 
 appeared to my unpractised eye to be almost impas- 
 sable. My fellow-travellers, however, (an amiable
 
 CANADIAN ROADS. 87 
 
 young lady included) testified neithei* surprise nor 
 alarm, and, of course, it did not become me to com- 
 plain. The planks of the bridges were frequently so 
 loose, so rotten, and so crazy, that I am yet at a loss 
 to conjecture how our bulky machine and the four 
 higli-mettled steeds escaped without falling through, 
 A sufficient supply of stone for repairs lay along the 
 road side, generally too in heaps, as gathered from 
 the land, while timber for the bridges was certainly 
 not far to seek. The period of annual repair had 
 not, however, yet come round, and even then no me- 
 tal would be applied, the road would merely receive 
 a sort of levelling, often, as I was assured, with tJie 
 plough, and the mud holes be in some temporary way 
 filled up. 
 
 A great deal might be said upon Canadian roads, 
 and it is a subject of regret that, from several causes, 
 there is but little prospect of any immediate im- 
 provement. Road-making can only be substantially 
 and satisfactorily executed, by men who have made 
 it a profession. Canada is yet too poor and too 
 thinly settled to affoi'd funds by assessment or by 
 turnpike, and the roads are, for the most part, con- 
 signed to the services of the farmei's themselves, 
 who turn out with their waggons and teams for a 
 certain number of days in each year. The interest 
 of each individual is thus palpably to consult his own 
 ease, and the road is repaired to very little purpose. 
 In fact it is done with considerable reluctance, be- 
 cause the farmer feels that he is labouring more for 
 the public than for himself. His sleigh in winter,
 
 88 CANADIAN ROADS. 
 
 witli tlie .advantages of water-carriage in almost every 
 part of" the province, render the good or had condi- 
 tion of the highways to liini a matter of comparative 
 indifference. And thus it seems likely enough to 
 continue until the country fills up, and more general 
 intercourse shall he established. It may he asked, 
 why does not the Legislature interfere and complete 
 a good road, tho first of all improvements ? In re- 
 ply, I can only hazard a conjecture, that, in the event 
 of a rupture with our neighbours, a good road along 
 the frontier might be convertible into a serious annoy- 
 ance, and that for military purposes the Rideau 
 Canal is expected to form a communication botwoen 
 the Upper and Lower Province. Whetlier it will 
 realize such hopes, or how we are to protect the 
 locks at Kingston and other points of the line from 
 any serious attempt by the Americans to occupy or 
 destroy them, must be settled by those who are 
 more deeply versed in such matters than I am : but 
 bad as our road may be, I am wandering rather too 
 far from it. 
 
 I have mentioned the awkward provision made in 
 our vehicle for ingress and egress, a provision by the 
 way, devised for the purpose of excluding water in 
 passing through rivers and brooks. Frequent were 
 the requests of our coachmen, " Just to get out a bit" 
 calls which, however prudent and reasonable in 
 themselves, were attended with no slight inconveni- 
 ence to me, as it proved no joke for a man of my 
 caliber to be bolting out and scrambling in at tho 
 window every few miles. Besides this harlequinade,
 
 CANADIAN ROADS. 89 
 
 our ears were occasionally saluted in more critical 
 circumstances, with a shrill cry of, " Gentlemen^ 
 please a little to the right or to the left," as the case 
 might require, when, our own sensations readily se- 
 conding the call, there was an instantaneous and amus- 
 ing scramble to restore the equilibrium. Broken heads 
 on sucli occasions are by no means rare, though hap- 
 pily we suffered no material inconvenience beyond 
 the slowness of our progress. In one very bad clay- 
 hole, with a steep bank, our machine faii'ly stuck fast, 
 and was all but upset. In vain did our excellent 
 horses strive to clear it. The coachman was obliged 
 to repair to a neighbouring farm for a team of oxen, 
 while some of the party provided themselves, sans 
 oeremonie, with stakes from the adjoining fence, to 
 be ready with their aid. In due time the oxen ar- 
 rived, the body of the carriage was lifted off the 
 frame, and the wheels extricated, the whole affair 
 being transacted without any symptoms of bad hu- 
 mour, or, so far as I heard, a single angry maledic- 
 tion. The operation necessarily requiring some 
 
 time, Mr F , his sister, and I, paid our respects 
 
 to an honest Dutch farmer on the wayside. We 
 found a clean tidy house, a busy household, a most 
 civil welcome, and a hearty lunch of bread and but- 
 ter, preserved peaches and milk, all superlatively 
 good ; nor could we manage to offer any compensa- 
 tion beyond thanks to the good dame, and gratifying 
 her benevolence by a trifle of charity for a poor wi- 
 dow in the neighbourhood, in whom the family 
 seemed to be much interested.
 
 90 MATILDA DISTRICT. 
 
 It was evening ere we readied our quarters in a 
 snug, comfortable country inn. Tlie house was not 
 very large, and the party was rather numerous, Avhich 
 for the first time in my American travels deprived 
 me of a single room. This event, so fruitful a 
 theme with some tourists, only occurred to me upon 
 ooie other occasion, and then a handsome apology 
 was spontaneously oiFered by the landlord, in a 
 very crowded hotel, for putting a friend and myself 
 into a double-bedded room. Higgledy-piggledy ad- 
 ventures, no doubt, occur in the back woods, but we 
 should scarce hold it fair, (I guess,) to produce a 
 hedge alehouse or a Highland clachan as fair samples 
 of what travellers are to expect in journeying through 
 Britain. Many were the friendly admonitions, too, 
 which I received before leaving home, anent certain 
 little vampyres, the teiTor and the torment of weary 
 travellers. Now, whatever may have ])een the lot 
 of others, I am bound to state, that I only encoun- 
 tered this species of annoyance once, and that was in 
 our o^Ti good city of Quebec. The scenery at Camp- 
 bell's tavern is fine. Deer are frequently seen, and 
 Mr C. described with some interest the capture of 
 two very fine ones lately, in the act of swimming 
 from an island in front of the house. 
 
 The following morning proved very rainy until 
 after breakfast, when it cleared, and we proceeded 
 cheerily on our route. We were now in the Matilda 
 district, which I consider a favourable situation for 
 settlers, who are able and inclined to purchase farms 
 already made. The soil appears in general of a
 
 3IATILDA DISTRICT. 91 
 
 light description, probably well suited for sheep. 
 We had the river for the most part in view with 
 wooded islands of infinite beauty. In some places 
 the clearing of the land has been effected by fire, 
 and when a forest of tall blackened masts occasion- 
 ally presented themselves in a bay or behind a head- 
 land, bearing a very tolerable resemblance to a crowd- 
 ed dock, the mind's eye was led to anticipate the 
 period when such may be actually realized in the 
 commerce of this noble stream. 
 
 Nothing particular occurred in our day's ride. 
 The lumbering article of yesterday was exchanged 
 for two light waggons, the road was better, and we 
 reached Prescot in good time for dinner. This is a 
 town of some size, but does not at present appear to 
 be in a very flourishing condition. Directly oppo- 
 site in locality, and I suspect also in prosperity, is 
 Ogdensburgh, in the State of New York, to which 
 we resolved upon a trip after dinner, as the steam- 
 boat which was to convey us to Kingston had not 
 yet arrived. We found a convenient steam-boat at 
 the ferry, which in a few minutes landed us in the 
 States. Ogdensburgh was formerly called Oswe- 
 gatchie, the name of a powerful stream falling into 
 the St Lawrence, and, from the capital and taste of 
 Mr Parish, and other proprietors, is fast emerging 
 from a village to become a bustling town.
 
 ( 02 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Voyage from Present to Kingston — The Thousand Islands- 
 Town ofKingston — Rideiiu Canal — Excursion on Quintd Bay 
 — Voyage on Lake Ontario to Queenston — Anecdotes of the 
 Frontier War. 
 
 After inspecting some extensive saw-mills, we 
 returned to Prescot, and found the " Sir James 
 Kempt' nearly ready to start for Kingston. A very 
 large steamei', the property of John Hamilton, Esq. 
 was lately launched here, and now lay in the river 
 nearly equipped. Late as was the hour, Mr H. in- 
 sisted upon our paying her a visit, and most kindly 
 accompanied us. The affair was not altogether plea- 
 sant, as before arrangements were made, it had be- 
 come quite dark, and we required the aid of a ric- 
 ketty boat to reach the vessel, which being accom- 
 plished, we had to scramble up and down her lofty 
 side by the light of a lantern, and only a rope to 
 trust to. Her accommodations were certainly su- 
 perb and convenient. We passed Morristown on 
 the American, and Brockville on the Canada, shore, 
 during the night, and being aware of the fine scenery 
 before us, our captain kindly engaged to call me be- 
 fore entering on the labyrinth of the Thousand 
 Islands.
 
 THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 93 
 
 Sunday, May 1 About four this morning I was 
 
 summoned on deck, and found the vessel moored to 
 a natural wharf, where we liad been taking in a sup- 
 ply of fueL A set of free-and-easy woodcutters find 
 a livelihood here, by clearing Government land of 
 its timber, without troubling the authorities to col- 
 lect value or rents. It consists of pine, and is not, I 
 believe, of much intrinsic value. A man may pre- 
 pare two cords a-day, but it is severe work, and the 
 price, which is one dollar per cord, will do little more 
 than compensate maintenance and labour. Our ves- 
 sel takes about 2000 cords per annum. The morn- 
 ing was worthy of Alay-day, and 1 watched the gra- 
 dual approach of sunrise with much interest. The 
 river, smooth as a mirror, reflected minutely on its 
 surface every tree and every rock. \^^e soon got 
 involved among the islands, the river expanding to a 
 lake, and deriving its name from the number. On 
 every hand you observe numberless channels and 
 wooded islands of all sizes and forms. Some are of 
 considerable extent; while others scarce admit of 
 footing to the woodman, who seeks to rob them of 
 their solitary pine. Many a flock of water-fowl did 
 our paddles scare from their quiet haunts, while oc- 
 casionally a majestic eagle might be seen soaring 
 aloft. It was altogether a scene of much interest 
 and beauty. Our helmsman recounted to me a sport- 
 ing feat of some novelty which occurred here last 
 fall, and ended in the capture of a fine buck, observed 
 swimming among the islands, and which, after many 
 a double, was fairly run down by the steamer, en-
 
 ^■1 TOWN OK KINGSTON. 
 
 cuiuhered at the time by four heavy Durham boats 
 towing at her stern. We stopped for a little at 
 Guananoque, where a fine mill-stream pours into the 
 St Lawrence, and has led to a thriving establishment 
 of extensive flour-mills, a cooperage, &c., with a well 
 cultivated farm, the property of Mr INIacdonnell. 
 
 Kingston, the largest and most considerable town 
 in Upper Canada, thougli not tlie seat of govern- 
 ment, opens with a fine effect as you pass the Fort 
 and enter the Bay. It is a rare and curious sight to 
 look upon a fleet of large ships of war, laid up in or- 
 dinary, in a fresh-water lake so remote from the 
 ocean. Long may it be ere the Temple of Janus 
 shall again be opened ; but should Ontario and Erie 
 be yet destined to bear the armed navy of Britain, 
 it is to be hoped that her rulers may discover the 
 waters to be fi-esh. To send out at an enormous ex- 
 pense from an English dock-yard the complete frame- 
 work of a frigate, was bad enougli, l)ut to add a 
 regular set of water casks, which a bucket was ready 
 at any moment to supersede, may well be termed the 
 acme of improvidence and waste. 
 
 The town of Kingston is well laid out, with some 
 handsome churclies, &c. and many excellent i)rivate 
 mansions, substantially built of stone. Our quarters 
 in Meyers' Hotel were extremely comfortable, and 
 we reached town in time to attend service in tlie Epis- 
 copal Church. It was pleasing again to listen to the 
 peal of the organ, and the solemn liturgy of our 
 diurch, in a land yet but half emerged from a savage 
 state; .and we had a most excellent sermon from Mr
 
 TOWN OF KINGSTON. 95 
 
 C., the worthy aud exemplary clergyman of the 
 place. Kingston is a place of trade, for which it is 
 well situate, and appears to be in a prosperous state. 
 It is also a military and naval station. The popula- 
 tion, I believe, is above three thousand souls. Hav- 
 ing an opportunity at this place of visiting a portion 
 of the Rideau Canal, by a ride of a few miles into 
 the forest, I procured horses for a young fellow tra- 
 veller and myself from our obliging host, and in a 
 delightful afternoon, with a genuine American for a 
 guide, we started on our excursion. We had a 
 pleasant scamper through the woods, and in due 
 time reached the canal. Some very fine locks have 
 been constructed here, of solid masonry and beauti- 
 ful workmanship, but executed, I should think, with 
 no very rigid considerations of economy or expense. 
 An extensive embankment has been formed, to 
 deepen a shallow lake, and the canal, from this point, 
 will very soon be opened into Kingston Bay. The 
 log-huts, &c. are government property, stamped with 
 the broad arrow, and the inmates, I regretted to ob- 
 serve, stamped also with the sickly hue of an aguish 
 district. We crossed the line of the canal, and re- 
 turned to town by the south side of the bay. A little 
 trait of American character, not perhaps unworthy of 
 record, occurred as we jogged along. When passing 
 a farm-yard, the ears of our guide were, for the first 
 time in his life, saluted by the screech of a peacock. 
 Listening with little patience to my description of 
 the bird, he galloped off to find him, poking about in 
 every dii-ection. The evening was fast closing in,
 
 9G TOWN OF KINGSTON. 
 
 and as we could not proci-od witliout lilni, I sounded 
 a loud note of recal. It was sounded, however, in 
 vain ; liotliing- would do, until lie finally succeeded 
 in finding the object of his search, perched in full 
 glory on a rail. Some high-minded folks will per- 
 haps say, " Here was impertinence with a ven- 
 geance ! What ? a fellow engaged for a time as 
 your servant, absolutely presume to leave you in the 
 lurch." Even so, and yet I must plead to having 
 been more amused than provoked by the resolute 
 detemiination of Jonathan to satisfy a reasonable 
 curiosity, though at the hazard of giving some of- 
 fence to a temporary employer. 
 
 We recrossed the river by a wooden bridge, built 
 by subscription, and the pontage upon which yields 
 a good return ; it is about one-third of a mile in ex- 
 tent. The fort, the navy-yard, t^c. are situated up- 
 on a bold headland commanding the harbour. In a 
 paddock adjoining the residence of the commodore, 
 I observed a small herd of the native deer. They 
 wei'e in low condition, but appeared near akin to the 
 red deer of Scotland. A\'illingly could I have 
 lingered for some time in the neighbourhood of 
 Kingston, but time was pressing, and only admitted 
 of a steam-boat excursion on Qninte Buy. I started 
 in the Sir James Kempt on the following morn- 
 ing, and passed several fine situations for \ illas in 
 the vicinity of the town and upon the banks of the 
 lake. Mr Haggerman, solicitor-general of Upper 
 Canada, possesses one of great beauty, ^\•ith the 
 grounds sloping down to the water edge. We had
 
 BAY OF QUINTE. 97 
 
 as usual a numerous cabin party, and I met with the 
 utmost kindness and anxiety to aiFoi'd me informa- 
 tion. The Bay of Quinte is a sound, running up for 
 eighty or ninety miles to the mouth of the River 
 Trent, and separated from Ontario by an extensive 
 and fine peninsida, called Prince Edward's Island. 
 Missourga Point is very beautiful, in many features 
 resembling the park scenery of England. The object 
 of our voyage, besides the conveyance of passengers, 
 seemed mainly directed to the collection of flour at va- 
 rious villages and wharfs, and with which our deck be- 
 came ultimately loaded to its utmost capacity of stOM'- 
 age. Sometimes the flour was received from stores, 
 but frequently most comfortable looking personages 
 attended our arrival with wagg( n loads from their 
 farms, periods of call having been previously arrang- 
 ed. During a part of the first night we lay at the 
 mouth of the Trent, and we spent the following day 
 cruizing from place to place. It was amusing each 
 morning at breakfast to observe the change of faces, 
 which had occurred during the night. On Tuesday 
 evening we were detained at Bath by a smart thun- 
 der-storm, accompanied with heavy rain ; and, as if 
 a disturbance in the elements was not enough, we 
 were favoured with a glorious roio between a loving 
 couple on deck. Loud was tlie din of war, but the 
 shrill pipe of the lady prevailed, and the discomfited 
 hero resigned the field, protesting that he could no 
 longer endure her temper, and now bade her adieu 
 for ever. Little did he reckon upon having so nearly 
 realized this doughty bravado. The night was dark, 
 
 G
 
 93 BAY OF QUINTE. 
 
 and a hasty stride immersed him in the lake, front 
 whence he was draprged, sufficiently cooled, by the 
 men engaged in loading the boat, and restored to his 
 cara sposa, amidst the most appropriate exclamations 
 of penitence on lier part for having, as she supposed, 
 driven him to the dreadful act The country along 
 the Bay of Quinte is altogether pleasing, the land 
 for the most part good, and the locality favourable 
 for agricultural or mercantile settlers. Various small 
 towns are here advancing to importance, and alto- 
 gether, it is a district which deserves the attention 
 of emigrants who are not prepared to plant them- 
 selves at once in the bush, and who have a moderate 
 capital wherewith to make a purchase of land, in 
 some measure reclaimed. 
 
 Early on Wednesday morning, May 4th, we 
 reached Kingston, and, after breakfast, I re-embark- 
 ed in the Alciope, a steamer which plies from hence 
 to Queenston, on the Niagara river. Besides ordi- 
 nary passengers, we had with us a detachment of 
 the 79th Highlanders, with families and baggage, 
 on route for Amherstburgh, a small fort at the west 
 end of Lake Erie. They Avere a healthy, joyous set, 
 indulging in many a rough practical joke with each 
 other, but kind, atlectionate, and gentle to the women 
 and children. Tiie officei'S were j)leasant, gentle- 
 manly men, and great was the surprise of Captain 
 R , who commanded the party, when he dis- 
 covered my name upon my luggage, he being a na- 
 tive of Perth, altliough we were personally unknown 
 to each other. His wife and childrenwcre with him, 
 and I felt a pleasure in being thus enabled to carry
 
 LAKE ONTARIO. 99 
 
 good accounts of tliem to Scotland. Canada, I was 
 told, is sadly subversive of discipline, and a run to 
 the States is easily effected, when officers prove what 
 the soldiers please to consider too strict. Two gre- 
 nadiers from the 79th had disappeared that very 
 morning. Deserters, however, frequently return, 
 and Sir John Colborne has adopted, in ordinary cases, 
 lenient measures, a course which seemed to be gene- 
 rally approved. 
 
 Behold us now fairly at sea, upon fresh water, 
 with a head wind and heavy swell, and many passen- 
 gers discomposed. Our coiu-se lay about twenty 
 miles from land on either side. Ontario is about 
 180 miles in length, and 100 fathoms in depth. The 
 water is perfectly pellucid, while Erie is turbid. 
 The latter being comparatively shallow (about 40 
 fathoms), probably occasions the difference. Our 
 cabin table and our cabin party were sumptuous 
 and agreeable, as I have always found them. On 
 Thursday morning I rose early and enjoyed from 
 our upper deck a splendid sunrise. It exhibited, as 
 it were, the united magnificence of that sublime ob- 
 ject, as witnessed both at sea and on shore. About 
 twelve this forenoon, when perambulating the deck, 
 a huge column of smoke, rising in clouds, and far to 
 the south-west, attracted my attention. It was Nia- 
 gai-a, then distant about twenty-five miles, as the 
 crow flies. The sky was of a fine clear, yellowish^ 
 red, well adapted to increase the effect; and I watch- 
 ed it with feelings of interest becoming hourly more 
 intense as I approached the scene of so many won- 
 
 G 2
 
 100 LAKE ONTARIO. 
 
 ders. We were ofF the mouth of the Niagara about 
 three o'clock, and met tJie steam-boat for York com- 
 ing out, to which several of our party transferred 
 themselves. The river was full of shoal-ice, and our 
 progress became necessarily slow. Notwithst;uuling 
 many precautions, we received some heavy thunij)s, 
 and lost part of our paddle- sheathing. The river is 
 here about a quarter of a mile in width, and forms 
 our boundary with the States. 
 
 Upon the south or south-west bank stands the old 
 French fort, garrisoned by the Americans ; and ex- 
 actly vis a vis is Fort George, occupied by British 
 troops. Adjoining to it is the small town of Newsirk, 
 frequently and most inconveniently called likewise 
 Niagara. It is well placed for trade, but did not seem 
 to be much alive. There are some morasses in the 
 vicinity, said to render it at times rather unhealthy; 
 but, as it stands upon an extensive platform, I should 
 imagine this to be rare, or, at all events, by judicious 
 drainage, not difficult to correct. 
 
 I ought to have mentioned that Mr H , whose 
 
 acquaintance I had made in Montreal, is owner of 
 the Alciope, and was himself along with us. My 
 letters of introduction for Newark and Queenston 
 were thus rendered nugatory, as my hospitable 
 friend would allow no door in Queenston to open 
 for me but his own. There we arrived early in the 
 evening, and there I found a large and most comfort- 
 able packet from home, a gratification which almost 
 rivals a reunion with friends. Queenston is a small 
 town, overhanging the river, .ind close at the foot of 
 that remarkable ridge which intersects the country,
 
 ANECDOTES OF THE FRONTIER WAR. 101 
 
 and which, by many geologists, is conjectured, at 
 some remote period, to have formed the margin of 
 Lake Ontario. Directly opposite is Lewiston, a 
 thriving town in the state of New York. 
 
 Tlie whole frontier from Ontario to Erie formed 
 the scene of bloody strife during the last war. A 
 severe action was fought on Queenston heights on 
 the 13th of October 1812, and a tree iu a small field, 
 on the west side of the village, marks the spot where 
 General Brock fell, when gallantly leading on the 
 British troops to a charge. He was greatly respected 
 by both armies, and deeply lamented by his own. A 
 stately column has been erected to his memory, with 
 a spiral staircase of 120 steps, recompensing the la- 
 bour of ascent with an extensive and most beautiful 
 prospect. The battle of Queenston was a day of 
 varied success, but finally terminated in the repulse 
 of the Americans. The animated and bloody contest 
 transacting on the Canada shore was alleged to have 
 operated somewhat unfavourably on the nerves of 
 the American reserve, who, at all events, by refus- 
 ing in the afternoon to cross the river, consummated 
 the discomfiture of their gallant friends. The banks 
 of the river are precipitous, and probably 300 feet 
 in height, thickly wooded ; and here terminates the 
 wild ravine, which commences seven miles above it, 
 at the Falls. If certain geological theories are right, 
 this was once actually the spot where Niagara 
 thundered ; and the Falls are supposed to have been 
 for ages gradually receding. The natiu-e of the sub- 
 strata and some well ascertained facts bear curiously 
 upon this speculation. The constant friction of such
 
 102 ANKCUOTES OK THE FRONTIER AVAR. 
 
 a mass of water, as displayed in the foaming- rapids 
 above the cataract, with the effective agency of win- 
 ter frosts, certainly conveyed to my mind a strong 
 impression that the theory might be sound. The 
 river runs here with a powerful current, and is about 
 half a niile in width. It is hardly possible to imagine 
 a more appalling spectacle than the American troops 
 must have presented when driven in wild confusion 
 down these banks. My friend 11 , from a know- 
 ledge of their language, was attached to the Indian 
 brigade. He placed me, with a giddy head, upon 
 the spot where his unerring riflemen maintained a 
 deadly fire upon the hapless foe scrambling through 
 the thicket of cedars, or attempting to swim the river, 
 in which many a poor fellow perished. 
 
 Innumerable are the anecdotes, tragic and comic, 
 which were detailed regarding this frontier Avar. 
 The employment of our red allies was a subject of 
 much vituperation against the British. The history 
 
 of Colonel D , a Canadian, Avho commanded the 
 
 Indians, AA'as fruitful in adventure and anecdote. He 
 was perfectly master of the Indian language and cus- 
 toms, had lived much among them, and, to sum up 
 all perfection, had chosen a SquaAv for his Avife. In 
 every sport and in every danger he AA'as one of them- 
 selves ; and, Avhere they place their confidence and 
 affection, both arc alike unbounded. It happened 
 to him once, in the Avestern country, Avhen engaged 
 in the fur trade, th.at his party, exhausted Avith fa- 
 tigue, resisted all his persuasions to proceed, and in- 
 sisted upon erecting- a Avigwam for the night, at a 
 certain pass, known to be a haunt of the Indians
 
 ANECDOTES OF THE FRONTIER WAR. 103 
 
 when in wait to plunder the traders. The men 
 
 were soon asleep, but D , with an anxious eye, 
 
 lay watching- the dying embers ; and, while there 
 yet remained sufficient light to distinguish objects, 
 he recognised the dreaded visitors, crawling like 
 huge snakes into the hut. It was vain to think 
 of resistance ; he feigned to be asleep, almost afraid 
 to breathe, and only hoping that the removal of their 
 booty might satisfy the Indians, if no interruption 
 should occur. At this anxious moment, teri-ified 
 lest any of his men should suddenly awake, his ears 
 were greeted by a welcome whisper from the fore- 
 most, addressed to those behind, " It is Redhead," 
 
 the name by which D was known in the woods. 
 
 The simple announcement acted like a charm, and 
 the work of blood was arrested ; but to show per- 
 haps (like David of old) how entirely they had the 
 party in their power, the leader moved quietly 
 round, and passed his hand along each man's throat, 
 before making his exit. At another time, when un- 
 der the most distressing privations from want of 
 food, D encountered a party of Indians, in near- 
 ly as bad a plight as himself. Famine stared him in 
 the face, and he could scarcely look for aid from 
 those who had but a scanty morsel for themselves. 
 Relying, however, upon his knowledge of Indian 
 feelings, he thus, in simple language, addressed tlie 
 chief: "Father, I am hungry:" " »So«, (says the old 
 man, offering at once their little stock), take, eat" 
 And these are men whom we term savage ! May 
 God grant that they suffer no abasement in the 
 boasted refinements of civilized life !
 
 ( 104 ) 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 F.'ills of Niajjara — Journey to York — An ^,r<m, or American 
 Post-Chaiso — Newark — The White Fish of tlie Lakes— 
 — Town of York — Government- House. 
 
 Friday, May G. — After breakfast I took leave of 
 my friend, and walked on for the Falls, leaving- the 
 stage, in which I had secured a })lace, to follow. 
 The day Avas delightful, and as I ascended the steep 
 hill from Queenston, I overtottk a soldier of the 
 79tli in charge of the baggage-waggons, leaning on 
 his musket, and wrapt in admiration of the sur- 
 rounding scenery: " It's mair like Scotland, Sir, than 
 (my thing Tve seen sin' I left it," was the poor fel- 
 low's remark, and truly it was far from misapplied, 
 making due allowance for difference of scale. The 
 country from Queenston to the Falls is well settled, 
 and finely diversified by farms, orchards, and open 
 forest. The soil is perhaps light, but in some places 
 of a stronger description, and all apparently fertile 
 desirable land. A very beautiful property, original- 
 ly laid out by the ill-fated Duke of Richmond, and 
 subsequently possessed by Sir Peregrine Maitland, 
 adjoins the road. The house, which is in the cot- 
 tage style, of wood, seems large and commodious. 
 Tliis estate is in a very favourable situation, and has 
 been lately sold for L. 2000 ; it contains about 450 
 acres of good useful laud. The distance from Queen'
 
 FALLS OF NIAGAKA. 105 
 
 ston to Niagara is about. seven miles, and I saunter- 
 ed on the whole way, the coach not overtaking me. 
 About four miles from the Falls, the sound came up- 
 on my ear like the murmur of Old Ocean on a 
 rugged strand. In certain states of the atmosphere 
 and wind this is heard at a much greater distance. 
 The noise gradually increased, and by-and-by the 
 spray was to be seen rising in columns above the 
 trees. A splendid and extensive establishment was 
 soon after recognised as Forsyth's hotel, and, under 
 feelings far more intense than ordinary curiosity, I 
 hurried foi'ward to a point, where Niagara, in all its 
 glory, came in view. From the increasing facility 
 of migrating now-a-days, this wonder of the world 
 has lost somewhat of that mysterious halo with 
 which it was wont to be enveloped ; but still it must 
 ever be Niagara. The most eloquent descriptions 
 will prove inadequate to convey a just conception of 
 the scene. Nor can the pencil, I imagine, ever do 
 it justice. A cataract may be said (as regards the 
 painter's art) to differ from all other objects In na- 
 ture. The human face and figure, the rich and 
 varied landscape, the animal and vegetable world, 
 may with sufficient propriety be delineated at rest, 
 but quiescence forms no feature here. The cease- 
 less loar, the spray mounting like clouds of smoke 
 from a giant limekiln, with the enormous sheet of 
 water which rolls over the precipice, can be felt and 
 understood only by repeated visits to the scene. My 
 attention was for a time distracted by the rapids 
 which are extremely interesting, and which with any
 
 ; 
 
 lOG FALLS OP NIAGARA. 
 
 Other noiglibour than the Falls would excite the high- 
 est admiration and wonder. After some time spent 
 in contemplation, I proceeded to my friends, where 
 a kind and comfortable Iiome awaited me. Mr C. 
 possesses a residence, which is certaiidy one of the 
 most romantic domiciles in the world. The house 
 stands on a small lawn upon a point overhanging the 
 rapids, and about half a mile above the Horse- Shoe 
 Fall. The garden is behind, washed by a fine branch 
 of the river, which encircles a wild and thickly wood- 
 ed island, and on every side new and interesting 
 prospects appear. The river is a mile across, and of 
 great depth, and, for the same distance above the 
 Falls, is one continued sheet of foam. We saunter- 
 ed down in the evening to the river side, and the 
 ra])ids lost nothing by a closer inspection. My bed- 
 room looked directly upon them ; I could watch the 
 smoke of the Fall, even as I lay on my pillow; and 
 with the wild roar of the cataract sounding in my 
 ears, I closed my first day at Niagara. 
 
 The following morning proved fine, and we devot- 
 ed the forenoon to the Falls. Lake Erie had just 
 broken up, and the icebergs came crashing down the 
 rapids, in a way extremely interesting. My friends 
 being quite at home in all the mazes of the river side, 
 conducted me by a wild and rugged route to the 
 edge of the Table- rock, when, upon emerging from a 
 tangled brake, I beheld the Horse-shoe or great 
 British Fall, pouring down its volume of ice and 
 water, at the distance of a few feet from where we 
 stood. The rock felt to me as though it vibrated,
 
 FALLS OF NIAGARA. lOJ 
 
 and a large mass did in fact lately give way, soon 
 after a party had retired from the precarious stance. 
 It is limestone, full of ugly fissures and rents. A 
 narrow wooden stair conducts adventurous travellers 
 to the bottom of the Fall, where a sort of entrance 
 is generally effected to a short distance under the 
 sheet, and for which performance a certificate, in due 
 form, is served out. The stair was at this time un- 
 der repair, and the accumulation of ice below per- 
 fectly reconciled me to waive pretensions to such 
 slippery honours. At some distance below the Fall, 
 and opposite to the American staircase, there is a 
 ferry, to which a safe and most romantic carriage- 
 road has been lately formed, out of the solid rock, 
 at no small labour and expense. When a similar ac- 
 commodation shall have been provided upon the 
 American side, it is expected to prove a lucrative 
 concern, but for the present, foot-passengers only 
 can be landed in the States. The little skiff had just 
 put off, with a party from the Canada shore, and got 
 involved in streams of ice, in a way somewhat ha- 
 zardous, and which rendered it impossible for the 
 boatman to return. The scene from the Ferry is 
 indeed magnificent, the Horse-shoe, the American 
 Fall, and Goat Island being all in view, with the 
 great cauldron eddying in fearful and endless tur- 
 moil. In the evening I walked up the river side to- 
 Avards the village of Chippeway, to visit a natural 
 curiosity upon Mr C.'s estate. A spring surcharged 
 with sulphuretted hydrogen gas rises within a few 
 paces of the river. A small building is erected over
 
 ^08 FALLS OF NIAGATIA. 
 
 it, and when a candle is applied to the tube in a bar- 
 rel, which encloses the spring, a brilliant and power- 
 ful light is evolved. Close adjoining, are the re- 
 mains of extensive mills burnt by the Americans 
 during last war. The water privilege is groat, and 
 machinery to any extent might be kept in play. 
 
 Canada, for many a year to come, should have 
 little to do with manufacturing establishments. Her 
 resources, duly fostered, should be employed in the 
 production of food for the artizans of Britain, and 
 thus enable them to maintain their ground in the 
 foreign market. Neither should our agriculturists 
 at home be too much startled at such a prospect, as, 
 happen what may, our landed interest can never pros- 
 per 2vhile our manufacturing interests decay. Should 
 some thousand spinning-jennies, however, at a fu- 
 ture day, here commence operations, behold a ga- 
 someter both economical and effective provided. 
 Springs of this descrii)tion are by no means rare in 
 the Canadas and States. Some have been discover- 
 ed near Canandaigua of great power, and the pro- 
 prietor of the farm, annoyed by hosts of visitors, in 
 the prudent spirit of turning all to account, has 
 opened a tavern for the mutual benefit of the public 
 and himself. 
 
 The suction occasioned by the rapidity and depth 
 of the stream, extends far above the Falls, and ren- 
 ders it necessary to use the utmost caution in navi- 
 gating canoes or boats. A servant of Mr C. was 
 lost some time ago, in a nocturnal expedition across , 
 the river, and Mr C. detailed to me an adventure of
 
 JOURNEY TO YORK. 109 
 
 his own, which, though somewhat ludicrous, was 
 certainly attended with hazard. He had gone out 
 a-fishing with a young man in his employment, late- 
 ly arrived in the country, and finding the boat rather 
 more in the vortex than was pleasant, they pulled 
 for shore, in doing which, his companion, by some 
 awkwardness, let slip his oar, and in making an ef- 
 fort under some mental agitation to recover it, the 
 pale and bloated visage of a drowned m.an presented 
 itself, close to the boat, dissipating what little self- 
 possession the poor lad retained. Mr C, however, 
 by an effort, soon got the boat out of the fatal cur- 
 rent, and put all to rights. 
 
 Upon Monday, May 9, I left my kind friends for 
 the purpose of visiting York, and the country to the 
 west of it. The morning was cold, and the wind a 
 sharp north-wester, accompanied by showers of snow. 
 As it was not a stage-day for Newark, I ordered an 
 extra, which is the same thing with taking a post- 
 chaise. It happened that old Forsyth, the landlord 
 of the Pavilion, had occasion to go down also, and 
 when I entered my extra, I found him very snugly 
 ensconced in a corner. To a man from tlie old coun- 
 try, this was something new ; but the old gentleman, 
 while he offered an apology, did not seem to be 
 much discomposed, and I rather think that the mat- 
 ter was not considered of much moment. Within a 
 week I was myself led, unintentionally, to do the 
 same thing, through the prevailing practice of using 
 the same coaches, for public and private travelling, 
 and upon that occasion the party received both my-
 
 110 AMERICAN POST-CHAISE. 
 
 self and my explanation witli tlie utmost good hu- 
 mour, fraiiknes!!, and ease. ISIy companion is pro- 
 prietor of the larg-e hotel at the Falls, mentioned by 
 every tourist, and is a personage sufficiently shrewd 
 and well informed* lie told me that his father had 
 been one of the original settlers in the district, and 
 bad migrated from the Genesee country. The change 
 within a few years seems to him nearly marvellous. 
 Often, he said, has he been racoon-hunting wliere is 
 now to be seen the busy town of Rochester, with 
 farms and villages innumerable, when he was well 
 aware that no human being could be within a hun- 
 dred miles of liim, save perliaps some wandering In- 
 dian. Mr F. may be said to have satisfactorily ful- 
 filled one duty of a colonist, by no means unimport- 
 ant. When I inquired of him, whether his family 
 was numerous, " ^Vhy," says he, " Sir, I don't 
 know what you call numerous ; I've raised nineteen, 
 ten by my first wife, and nine by my second." We 
 passed many excellent farms and beautiful orchards 
 in tliis stage of sixteen miles. The day continued 
 stormy, and ultimately the gale became so violent, 
 that the steamer for York could not venture out. A 
 lull was looked for towards evening, and I had no- 
 tliing for it but to saunter about the neighbourhood 
 until the dinner hour at Kreysler's hotel. In con- 
 nexion with the American Fort, Newark became 
 some years ago the scene of a tragical mystery, which 
 lias kindled an extraordinary flame in every State of 
 the Union. We are accustomed in Britain to con- 
 sider Free Masonry as a mere excuse for convivial
 
 NEWARK. Ill 
 
 relaxation ; but it has of late assumed a very diflFer- 
 ent aspect here, and although no doubt the ap- 
 proaching period of electing the chief magistrate 
 tends to give it peculiar vigour, still it must be 
 reckoned the pivot on which all questions of a pub- 
 lic nature at present turn. The public journals suf- 
 ficiently evince the excitement of the public mind, 
 and that baneful consequences have followed no man 
 can deny, who is made acquainted with the fate of 
 Captain Morgan. This unhappy man having be- 
 come obnoxious to the brethren, because he either 
 had or was believed to have promulgated the secrets 
 of the craft, a plan was concocted to punish his trea- 
 son, and make him a signal example. A^liether the 
 scheme originally contemplated his death, or only 
 his removal from America, does not exactly appear, 
 but it is beyond a doubt, that he was inveigled under 
 various pretexts to Niagara, that he has never been 
 seen nor heard of since September 1826, and that, 
 in fact, there is every reason to believe that, when 
 Ontario shall give up its dead, poor Morgan will 
 rise from its depths, in judgment against his mur- 
 derers. It is a melancholy tale, and fraught Avith 
 matters of vital importance to the Americans. At 
 this hour it stands on record, that after sundry at- 
 tempts to bring the culprits to justice, the arm of the 
 law has been palsied, and no jury has been found to 
 convict, upon evidence, too, which might have been 
 deemed I'easonably conclusive, while one most emi- 
 ment lawyer in the State of New York, has de- 
 nounced the jurors for " uttei'ly disregarding their
 
 112 WHITE FISH OF THE LAKES. 
 
 duty and their oath," addirifr that the " very foun- 
 dation of justice is polluted." Let the nation look 
 to it ere the hour g;oes by, when a remedy may be 
 safely applied to so frightful an evil. 
 
 Among other good things upon our dinner-table, 
 we were regaled with the celebrated white fish, a de- 
 licacy which, as Charlevoix has long since remarked, 
 " nothing of the fisli kind can excel." It is peculiar, 
 I believe, to the North American lakes and rivers, 
 and, so far as I know, has not been described by ich- 
 thyological writers. Some naturalists consider it to 
 be a nondescript species of Salmo. The flesh is 
 white, and resembles tjie most gelatinous part of the 
 turbot, but considerably richer. The fish is taken 
 with hook and line, frequently at a hole in the ice, 
 being then in highest perfection, and runs from three 
 to eight pounds weight. There is a coating of fat 
 along the back, little inferior in flavour to the rich- 
 est butter. 
 
 About nine o'clock I was summoned on board, and 
 soon after took possession of a sofa for the night. 
 We took our departure about twelve, and at sunrise 
 next morning were just approaching the northern 
 shore. York is the seat of government in the upper 
 province, and a large peninsula forms a spacious and 
 safe harbour, the barracks, public buildings, <S:c. mak- 
 ing a very respectable appearance as you enter the 
 bay. After breakfast at tlie liotel, where an Irish 
 gentleman and I got a comfortable sitting-room, with 
 our bed-rooms adjoining, I proceeded to deliver let- 
 ters, and waited upon Sir John Colborne, governor
 
 TOWN OF YORK. 113 
 
 of the upper province. I found the govemment- 
 house, selon le regie, at the west end of the capital. 
 It is a commodious irregular mansion, of wood, with 
 garden, shrubberies, &c. The public apartments are 
 suflBciently spacious and handsome, and nothing could 
 exceed the aifable and easy demeanour of Sir John. 
 It is not for a bird of passage like myself to offer an 
 opinion upon matters of state, but I am greatly de- 
 ceived if Sir John is not fraught with tlie utmost 
 zeal to promote the prosperity of the province, and 
 possessed of sound and clear views, as regards its re- 
 sources and wants. He favoured me with a pretty 
 long interview, and then gave me a note to Mr Ro- 
 binson, who is at the head of the government land- 
 office, and from whom I readily received every atten- 
 tion and information in his power. 
 
 My next visit was to the office of the Canada 
 Company, where I found the commissioners commu- 
 nicative and truly obliging. Dr D , who acts as 
 
 warden of the forests, has spent much time in their 
 depths, and gives the seria mixta jocis in the happiest 
 style, when recounting the progress and adventures 
 of settlers in the back woods. The Canada Com- 
 pany, I should think, is calculated to forward the 
 general interests of the colony, although there are 
 certainly those who think otherwise ; and if it shall 
 continue to be prudently administered, will in time 
 yield handsome returns. The exertions made to 
 facilitate the transport and settlement of emigrants, 
 and the liberal terms held out, cannot fail to secure 
 the confidence and good-will of intending settlers. 
 
 H
 
 H4 TOWN OF VORK. 
 
 I dined in the evening- at the governinent-ljoiise. 
 Tlie party was rather numerous, and quite as agree- 
 able as such affairs commonly prove. Sir John in- 
 troduced me to Dr B , as a g-entleman particu- 
 larly able to give me information upon the state of 
 the province ; a character which he fully redeemed, 
 both then, and during- a long- visit with which he 
 honoured me on the following morning. I may men- 
 tion by the way, regarding this g-entloman (and I 
 certainly do so from no disrepect to him, but as illus- 
 trating good sense and liberal f(!elings in the go- 
 vernor), that, Avhile he was marked by no exclusion 
 from the hospitality and private esteem of Sir John, 
 he was yet remarked as frequently opposed to go- 
 vernment measures ; and I consider it a trait of temper 
 and tact upon the one hand, and of discretion and 
 independence upon the other, well deserving of re- 
 gard. Were such instances more frequent, fewer 
 changes in governments would be required, and the 
 public service would probably be essentially pro- 
 moted. The government of Upper Canada is admi- 
 nistered by a lieutenant-governor, a legislative coun- 
 cil, of not less than seven members, appointed by 
 mandamus from the king, and holding their situation 
 for life ; of an executive council, of not fewer than 
 six ; and of a House of Assembly, being twenty-five 
 members returned by the respective counties. The 
 demon of discord is no stranger here, and his Majesty's 
 ojrposilion claim notice in the Assembly of York, no 
 less than in the hall of St Stephen's. At present I 
 understood government measures to bo gaining po-
 
 TOWN OF YORK. 115 
 
 pularity ; but as politics came very little within the 
 sphere of my inquiries, I cannot vouch for the accu- 
 racy of my information. That discontent and faction 
 exist in the province, is to say no more than that the 
 government of Canada resembles all other human 
 institutions, but that any tangible grievance is per- 
 versely maintained, must, I should think, be more 
 than doubtful. The inhabitants possess the means of 
 enjoying as much solid happiness as any nation on 
 
 earth. Mr H , the solicitor-general, assured me, 
 
 that however turbulent or discontented individuals 
 may have been prior to their arrival in the province, 
 comfort antl plenty soon work wonders on those who 
 are of industrious habits, and loyalty and good- 
 humour speedily follow. 
 
 h2
 
 ( ne ) 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 stage-coach Journey through Toronto and Trafalgar Town- 
 ships — The " Farmer's Inn" — "' Summer's Tavern" — Nelson 
 Township — Visit to Guelph Town— A Forest Ride — Negr 
 Family. 
 
 I LEFT York upon Wednesday the 11th, about 
 mid-day, in the Hamilton stage, for Summer's Tavern, 
 thirty-five miles distant, where I intended to stop 
 for the night. After a frosty morning-, the day be- 
 came sultry, and an early brood of mosquitoes was 
 on wing. We travelled in a waggon, the roads not 
 being yet in trim for the season. Upon leaving town 
 to the west, we passed through some well improved 
 farms, and soon after entered upon a tract of un- 
 cleared forest, apparently not very valuable land. 
 The road runs through the Toronto, Trafalgar, and 
 Nelson townships. It is for the most part a fine tnitt 
 of country, intersected by powerful streams, falling 
 into Ontario. Some of these are named by the num- 
 ber of miles distance from York, and are said to 
 abound with salmon and other fish. They also aiford 
 fine situations for mill-seats. The road is one of the 
 great highways of the province, but is certainly as yet 
 sufficiently rude, and in some places not unattended
 
 TORONTO AND TRAFALGAR TOWNSHIPS. 117 
 
 with hazard. The lofty banks of tlie creeks present 
 obstacles wliich have required more than ordinary 
 exertions, and public money has been applied to sur- 
 mount them. I am afraid something- has been amiss, 
 either in regard to a scientific survey, or prudent 
 expendituz-e, for certainly the attempt at amendment 
 has signally failed. The country along the whole line 
 is rapidly filling up, and many farms have attained a 
 well-cultivated appearance. Comfort and cheerful 
 industry seemed every where to reign, whether the 
 settlers were yet engaged with the axe in commen- 
 cing operations, or occupied in conducting the details 
 of more advanced husbandry. It was interesting and 
 not unfrequent to observe the humble shanty, the 
 original nest of the family, left to maintain its station 
 beside the new and more extended mansion. Whether 
 this arose from accident or design, I know not; but 
 it struck me as being in good taste, and calculated to 
 form a useful memorial of the slender rill from whence 
 ease and affluence were destined to flow. The doors 
 and windows being generally open, we caught a 
 glimpse of the interior of each habitation as we passed, 
 and, without an exception, cleanliness and comfort 
 seemed to prevail within. The women and children 
 were particularly tidy and neat. One small possession 
 was laid out in nursery ground for grafted peaches 
 and other fruit-trees, and the house and grounds were 
 dressed in a style, easily attainable, but still ex- 
 tremely rare in Canada, 
 
 About four o'clock we reached the end of our first 
 fitage, a distance, I think, of twenty miles, and which
 
 1 IH THE farmer's inn. 
 
 u pair of comp.ict little entire horses had perforniefl 
 remarkably well. We had taken, to be sure, four 
 hours to it, which our English Jehus may be ready 
 to sneer at ; but, had they encountered our steep 
 banks of tough clay, with four or five passengers, 
 luggage, &c., I suspect some, even of our first-rates, 
 would have stuck fast, or considerably exceeded this 
 allowance. We were welcomed to " the Farmers' 
 Iiui — Live and let live" — (a motto not particularly 
 applicable, by-the-by, to Canada) by a bevy of smil- 
 ing damsels, who had every thing about the house 
 perfectly neat and clean. Having breakfasted at 
 eight, and supper depending upon the issue of a 
 fifteen mile stage, yet to come, I expressed a wish 
 to have some lunch, to which delay both coachman 
 and company most readily assented, a great spirit of 
 accommodation generally prevailing in this respect. 
 In a short time I was ushered into a comfortable 
 parlour, where a smart tea-equipage was set out, not 
 without some regard to display; cakes of various 
 kinds, a capital cold apple-pie, and many a nice et 
 ccetera besides, with one of the fair daughters to do 
 the honours of the board, — an office which she per- 
 formed with singular propriety and ease. The fa- 
 mily appeared altogether highly respectable. Many 
 books lay in the room, consisting of history, biogra- 
 phy, &c., and one very splendid octavo bore to be the 
 pi-ayer-book of " Laititia Boure — 
 
 Industry her occupation, 
 Christ her only salvation." 
 
 I do not know if it was Miss Lajtitia, but one of the
 
 SUMBIER's TAVERN. 119 
 
 g'irls was the tallest woman I recollect of having ever 
 met with ; slie was certainly rather over than under 
 six feet, and uncommonly erect. Every thing beto- 
 kened ease and plenty about the rural inn ; and be- 
 fore remounting, I examined the carcase of a large 
 and very fat ox, hanging in the barn, — no bad pros- 
 pect for succeeding travellers. 
 
 Summer's Tavern is in Nelson township. The 
 host stands high in favour with Dr D — , and a few 
 lines from him secured me an extra welcome. I 
 parted here with my fellow-passengers, who were to 
 travel all night, for Hamilton. My first care was to 
 secure a guide and horses to convey me to Guelph, 
 an infant city, founded by the Canada Company, in 
 the wilderness of Gore — which affair being satisfac- 
 torily adjusted with the blacksmith of the place, and 
 having appointed his son and pair of steeds to be in 
 readiness on the following morning, I had some sup- 
 per, and retired to a most comfortable bed. 
 
 Thursday \'^th. — The morning proved fine, and 
 having got all our arrangements completed about 
 seven, I took possession of mine host's own saddle, 
 placed upon the blacksmith's best horse, and trotted 
 away, with his son, a fine smart lad, as pilot, on the 
 other. We soon turned off to the right, and ere 
 long got fairly immersed in the forest, losing all signs 
 of cultivation. There are more roads than one to 
 Guelph, and assuredly the one I travelled has no 
 claims to pre-eminence ; indeed, when I afterwards 
 attacked my friend the Warden for sending me such 
 a route, he candidly admitted that he had selected it
 
 120 A FOREST HIDE. 
 
 as a sample of " a real forest ride.'' For some time 
 all was doliglitfiil. Tlio road was dry, tlie day plea- 
 sant, and every mile became more interesting-, as the 
 magnificence of the forest scenery increased. Pines 
 and cedars (the lignum vitce) of splendid growth, 
 maples of several kinds, beech, walnut, and hickory, 
 elm, cherry, &c. stretched out their towering heads 
 or rugg-ed arms, while the ground was enamelled 
 with lovely flowers of every liue, chiefly, I thought, 
 of the Campanula family. The only living sound 
 whicli broke the stillness of the forest (our own in- 
 significant voices excepted), was the song of the 
 thrush, the screech of the catbird, the whine of Avhip- 
 poor-will, and some other more varied notes of tlie 
 feathered tribe, witli the constant din of what my 
 guide termed " them red-headed chaps,'' the lovely 
 woodpeckers {Pious erythroccphalus), whose hammer- 
 ing reverberated to a degree somewhat difficult to 
 believe the cause could produce. The gaudy crest 
 of this bird is said to prove an irresistible bait to the 
 muskolonge, a much esteemed fish of the pike species. 
 When at Kingston, my landlord called me one 
 morning to the yard, to examine a very fine one, just 
 brought in by an Indian. It weighed about 25 lb., 
 and had been speared in five feet of water. It is a 
 voracious fish, and the captor had a severe bite on 
 his hand, received in securing his prize. But to re- 
 turn. — The surface of the country was often finely 
 undulated, with copious springs, numerous rivulets, 
 and romantic dells; and the limestone rock, under 
 the most fantastic forms, was thickly covered witlx
 
 A FOREST RIDE. 121 
 
 the rock-fern, lichens, and an endless variety of luxu- 
 riant vegetation. The undergrowth, or shrubbery, 
 consists of sassafras, with a bud in taste resembling 
 a custard, the dogwood, hazel, blackberry, straw- 
 berry, and many others, both elegant and useful. 
 
 Occasionally the squirrel would shoot across our 
 path, and perched upon some lofty branch, peer 
 down at the intruders. The black variety was new 
 to me ; it is a beautiful creature, and of considerable 
 size. This agreeable state of matters, however, was 
 soon destined to suffer a reverse. A long, straight 
 and dreary looking avenue presented itself in per- 
 spective, which proved to be a cordtiroy passage, 
 across an extensive swamp. Without a moment's 
 hesitation, my gallant steed stepped upon the round 
 loose logs, and as he seemed to eye his difficulties 
 %vith infinite good sense and caution, I left him to 
 pick his way as he deemed best. Ere long, hoo'ever, 
 it became too much for my faith, great even as it 
 was. The logs were in many places rotten, and 
 what Chai'ley designated " only a mud-hole, sir" re- 
 curred so often, that in prudence I placed the boy in 
 front. I cannot say that I gained much by this ar- 
 rangement, as, however startling it might be to feel 
 myself getting engulfed — the flounders of my leader, 
 dashing on perfectly unconcerned, through thick and 
 thin, were even worse to witness. I essayed to 
 walk, but that would not do. The logs were slip- 
 pery, and in his bounds, my nag went so near to up- 
 set me, that I was fain to remount. At length terra 
 firma was regained, and my confidence mightily
 
 122 A FOREST RIDK. 
 
 strengtlicned in tlie g-ood beast tliat bore me. At 
 one iuvkward moment, the raft, as I may term 
 it, gave way, and down we went, stern foremost, 
 but one leg fortnnately embracing the log in front, 
 the poor fellow clnng to it, and fairly managed 
 to em(!rge, ere I could make up my mind on the 
 best chance to escape. About noon we came to an 
 Irishman's cabin, which stood for the half-way house 
 to Guelpli. My first inquiry was, " Have you any 
 corn ?" — " No, Sir," to my dismay, was the reply ; 
 " but we have plenty of oats ;" corn in this country 
 being always understood to designate maize. Our 
 horses were forthwith put und«!r cover, and Charley 
 proceeded to make them comfortable, while I entered 
 the shanty, and had a cliat with the dame. Her 
 husband had lately settled here ; she said he was in- 
 dustrious, and getting on very well ; they bad some 
 fine healthy children, and, thongli still poor, every 
 thing was clean, and Avithout any symptoms of po- 
 verty or distress. I sauntered about the forest, 
 amused witli storing specimens of the many flowers 
 which here, in native beauty, have been indeed 
 
 — " born to blush unseen, 
 And waste their fragriince on the desert air" — 
 
 until our cavalry had refreshed, when we resumed 
 our progress. Several clearings have been eflFected 
 in this quarter, and a good many settlers established. 
 I was struck with the conspicuous activity and in- 
 dustry of a Negro family. Numbers of these poor 
 creatures, as opportunity favours, are ever watching 
 to escape from bondage in the Slave States of the
 
 A FOREST RIDE. 123 
 
 Union, and are to be met with in various parts of 
 Canada. It has been alleged that the Negro will 
 prove too indolent for labour, in a state of freedom ; 
 — a remark which, without stopping to prove unphi- 
 losophical, and at variance with every principle of 
 human nature, Avas here most signally contradicted. 
 The same remark applies to several other farms, no- 
 ticed even in my limited excursion ; and the one in 
 question exhibited a set of as busy and happy dingy 
 faces as a philanthropist could wish to look on ; while 
 the appearance of the farm spoke to the steady la- 
 bour which had been employed ; and the barn (the 
 test of a tliriving colonist) was decidedly the hand- 
 somest and largest that I passed. The crops of 
 wheat and clover promised the utmost luxuriance, 
 and afforded the most satisfactory earnest of wliat 
 the forest will yield when brought into cultivation. 
 It went to my heart to see the noble trees blazing 
 away as worthless weeds ; but it must for the present 
 continue to be the principal mode of disposing of 
 them, when at any considerable distance from a ri- 
 ver or a lake. We passed a party of three men, 
 having a small cart and team of six oxen, returning 
 from Nelson. The trip had occupied them three 
 days, and the state of the road may be pretty well 
 estimated, from such an expenditure of time and liv- 
 ing labour upon a journey of twenty or thirty miles. 
 Our own progress was tardy enough, and from time 
 to time we encountered more of the vile swamps, but 
 still we managed to get througli without mishap. 
 At one gap in the forest, I witnessed, with feelings
 
 124 A FOREST BIDE. 
 
 of siirprise not iiTimingled with awe, the eiFects of 
 what is here called " a windfall,'' or a hurricane in 
 the woods. Trees of enormous bulk lay smashed 
 like reeds, and a portion of the forest was laid bare, 
 as though a thousand hatchets had been at work. 
 I reckoned it to have been of recent occurrence, as 
 the road was in some places much encimibered by 
 fallen trees, and, in addition to the bog-holes below, 
 it required some good steering to escape being siis. 
 per coll. above. The day, which had hitherto been 
 extremely pleasant, began to overcast, and was fol- 
 lowed by a drizzling rain. H<aving full confidence, 
 however, in soon reaching Guelph, this gave rae lit- 
 tle uneasiness — nor was I particularly concerned up- 
 on coming to the alternative of two roads. When 
 Charley, liowever, to whom I applied for counsel, 
 coolly admitted that he had never been beyond the 
 half-way hut, the matter assumed a more serious 
 aspect. Neither farm nor farmer was to be seen — 
 and after the usual quantum of discussion, we hit 
 upon the usual happy selection of tlie wrong track. 
 Where our travels might have ended I know not ; 
 but fortunately after making some progress in our 
 dubious course, a house was descried, where we re- 
 ceived tlie satisfactory assurance, that we were leav- 
 ing Guelph as fast as we could. There remained 
 nothing for it, then, but to retrace our steps, thank- 
 ful at so early a correction of our mistake — and af- 
 ter a wet, perplexing, and rather hap-hazard ride — 
 finally got sight of the city about three o'clock.
 
 ( J25 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Town of Guelph — Visit to Gait Farm — Equestrian Excursion 
 to Brandtford and Hamilton — Interview with a Scotch 
 Borderer — M ohawk Village. 
 
 It was necessary to cross the river Speed before 
 getting into our quarters, and as there appeared to 
 be only the skeleton of a new bridge, without any 
 symptoms of a ford, we were somewhat at fault, 
 when a party emerged from the forest : one of whom 
 
 proved to be Mr P , an agent of the Canada 
 
 Company. By his direction, we made a detour to 
 the old bridge, as rickety and crazy an article as can 
 be well imagined. Our circumstances, however, ad- 
 mitting of no delay, we led the horses across, not 
 without hazard to their limbs and our own, and soon 
 got safely housed in Mr Oliver's tavern. Our land- 
 lord proved to be a sensible civil personage, and 
 although his accommodations were somewhat home- 
 ly, the essentials were good, and cleanliness and 
 civility compensated for what else might he amiss. 
 
 Mr P received me in his parlour, and we were 
 
 speedily provided with a snug dinner, which con- 
 tained, to my delight, a fry of delicate pink-fleshed 
 trouts, similar to the produce of some of our High- 
 land lakes, and which the Speed supplies in great
 
 126 TOWN OP GUELPH. 
 
 abundance, affording excellent sport to the angler. 
 In the afternoon I walked out with my host, whom 
 I found possessed of a spice of humour. lie con- 
 ducted me through a capital grist-mill, erected by 
 the Company ; the dues exacted at which, for grain 
 manufactured, amount to one-twelfth of the produce 
 in flour. The town appeared at this time rather 
 stagnant. " There stands the bank (says Oliver) 
 which never stopped, seeing that it never started ; 
 and that fine affair of a market-place will be six 
 months together without a joint." 
 
 The situation and soil of Guelph are healthy and 
 good ; the town standing u|)on a fine platform, Avith 
 the river sweeping round it, and enjoying the sine 
 qua non of an abundant supply of copious springs. 
 There is a very commodious log mansion-house, 
 named the Priory, at present empty. It contains 
 good family accommodation, with some handsome 
 apartments ; and, being sweetly placed upon the 
 banks of the river, is capable of being made a pleas- 
 ing abode. Upon a sloping bank, exactly opposite, 
 a good fai'm has been imi)roved, and adds comfort to 
 the landscape — while the forest in wild magnificence, 
 skirts the rising grounds which environ the settle- 
 ment. 
 
 I left Guelph the following forenoon, in my land- 
 lord's light waggon, he himself undertaking to con- 
 vey me to Gait, the residence of Mr D , who I 
 
 knew was expecting me about this time. The dis- 
 tance was about twenty miles, for which I paid tAvo 
 dollars, or 10s. English. My host proved a most
 
 WATERLOO TOWNSHIP. 127 
 
 intelligent and amusing- companion. We found the 
 road, upon the wliole, very tolerable ; that is to say, 
 I never was required to dismount, for we were cer- 
 tainly not altogether exempt from a little corduroy^ 
 or floundering in a mud-hole. We passed through 
 several good-looking farms, in various stages of pro- 
 gress, all of which were evidently labouring under a 
 deficiency of capital, to stock and improve them. 
 Another industrious and prosperous Negro was lo- 
 cated on the wayside. He had invented a useful 
 implement, which Oliver denominated a Hoe-plough. 
 I did not see it, but presume it to have belonged to 
 the numerous family of Grubbers. 
 
 Chopping, or clearing land of the timber, is readi- 
 ly contracted for here at 12 dollars, or £3 Sterling, 
 per acre. It is then in a condition to be sown, which 
 is generally done at the rate of one bushel, or a lit- 
 tle more, of wheat per acre ; and the return which 
 may be looked for is from fifteen to twenty-five. 
 Limestone abounds everywhere, but has been hither- 
 to little employed as a manure, though its effects up- 
 on a soil so rich in vegetable matter may be readily 
 estimated. 
 
 The morning had been wet and dull, but the sun 
 broke forth as we entered the Waterloo district. 
 The soil appeared here to be a dry friable loam, the 
 timber heavy, and of approved varieties, such as elm, 
 oak, maple, &c. Springs and brooks were to be seen 
 in abundance, and in many farms, leisure had been 
 found to grub out the black stumps, so offensive to 
 the eye of an old country farmer. The live-stock,
 
 128 VISIT TO GALT FARM. 
 
 too, evinced, by their size and condition, superior ma- 
 nagement and food. The d\veUing--houses, barns, 
 stables, and orchards, I may add, were all in charac- 
 ter. Oliver valued the improved farms at twenty- 
 five dollars, or six guineas per acre. The farmers 
 are for the most part Dutch, a truly primitive, fru- 
 gal race. Never shall I forget the venerable patri- 
 archal aspect of an old man whom we met in the fo- 
 rest, with a beard of driven snow flowing to his gir- 
 dle, and driving a team of superb bays in his wag- 
 gon. This district has been settled about twenty 
 years, and the farmers reaped some glorious har- 
 vests, when Guelph was forcing forward, by contract- 
 ing for provisions, carriages, &c. 
 
 After a very plesisant ride, we came, rather sud- 
 denly, at an opening in the forest, upon the Ouse, 
 or Grand River, where it made a beautiful sweep, 
 and a fine appearance. A little farther down, some 
 straggling houses and extensive mills announced our 
 arrival at Gait. A wooden bridge led us to a com- 
 modious stone-building, in the cottage style, the re- 
 sidence of Mr D , delightfully placed upon a ri- 
 sing ground, and commanding fine views of the ri- 
 ver. I found with Mr D a kind and cordial 
 
 welcome, and enjoyed the comforts of such a family 
 not a little, after the somewhat rough work of the 
 last two days. Mr D is a very extensive land- 
 owner, having purchased a large township, which he 
 named Dumfries, and, in the present full tide of emi- 
 gration, I doubt not that it will rapidly fill up. The 
 system of dealing with settlers here is particularly
 
 VISIT TO GALT FARM. 129 
 
 favourable for those who are compelled to rely chief- 
 ly upon their personal labour. Mr D opens an 
 
 account with each individual, receiving instalments 
 in money or produce, and frequently, where charac- 
 ter warrants such confidence, even supplying the 
 means of purchasing oxen, implements, or seed. At 
 an early period of the settlement he formed a con- 
 nexion with Mr S , an intelligent, enterprizing 
 
 American, who devotes his attention principally to 
 the mills, where he carries forward an extensive con- 
 cern in the various departments of flour and saw 
 mills, with a cooperage similar to the one at Guana- 
 noque, and from which he turns out uncommonly 
 
 neat and reasonable articles. A son of Mr D 
 
 resides with him, giving his aid in the general ma- 
 nagement, and was at this time just returned from 
 
 an experimental voyage, in company with Mr S , 
 
 by which the important fact was ascertained, that 
 the Ouse affords a safe communication with the Wel- 
 land Canal, a distance by water of 100 miles. A 
 barrel of flour, which now costs 3s. to reach Ontario, 
 will thus be conveyed for 1 s. and all other produce, 
 of course, in like proportion, — a difi"erence of incal- 
 culable value to the district. 
 
 Mr D — — has a very neat garden tastefully laid 
 out behind his mansion, and adjoining to it a large 
 extent of improved land. The rocks at the river 
 side are of limestone, which in fact forms the sub- 
 stratum of the whole, or most part, of Upper Ca- 
 nada. 
 
 As my time would not admit of a long sojourn, 
 
 I
 
 130 KQUESTRIAN EXCURSION. 
 
 where I should otliervvise have enjoyed myself so 
 
 much, Mr D kindly offered me his horses ; and 
 
 his son, though still an invalid from cold caught in 
 his aquatic excursion, insisted upon accompanying 
 me to Hamilton, where I would again rejoin the 
 liigli road to Niagara. 
 
 Saturday, May 15. — We had a white frost this 
 morning, followed by a beautiful day. Breakfast 
 being over, we started for Brandtford, a village about 
 twenty miles off, chiefly belonging to the Indians. 
 I was mounted upon a capital steady mare, Mr D.'s 
 own pad; his son rode an uncommonly clever, active 
 hackney ; and our baggage and sumpter-steed was 
 bestrode by Simon Mackenzie, a Yankee Celt, a very 
 civil fellow, but of a species (I was told) generally 
 the most untoward of all domestic animals. Our 
 ride along the river side was delightful, and the 
 scenery fine, farms and forest in alternate succession. 
 A few miles below Gait, we turned off to examine 
 two properties then on sale : they were contiguous 
 to each other, and appeai'ed to consist of good use- 
 ful land, well-watered by copious springs, on a lime- 
 stone bottom. The situation was extremely plea- 
 sant, extending in front down to the river, and in- 
 tersected by the public road. Each farm contained 
 about 200 acres, of which nearly one-lialf was im- 
 proved and fenced, with tolerable houses, and the 
 remainder in useful timber of various kinds. The 
 price demanded was 40s. per acre. 
 
 Returning to our route, we entered upon an ex- 
 tensive range of open, grove-like woodland, princi-
 
 EQUESTRIAN EXCURSION. 131 
 
 pally oak, and the trees so dispersed as not to inter- 
 fere materially with the operations of the plough. 
 It had much of the appearance of some of the wild- 
 est parts of English park-scenery. An old Indian 
 path conducted us to a commanding point overhang- 
 ing the river, where we fovmd a cool spring gushing 
 from the bank, amidst shrubbery and undergrowth. 
 A small and verdant knoll marked the spot where 
 grand councils were wont to be held in olden times, 
 and where the calumet of peace has, no doubt, been 
 often smoked, or the tomahawks sharpened for war. 
 It was a lovely landscape, with a greater range open 
 to the eye than usually occurs in the interior of Ca- 
 nada. Here we seated ourselves, enjoying the con- 
 tents of Simon's wallet and the spi'ing, with due qua- 
 lification, while our horses had a little rest in the 
 heat of the day. Adjoining to this spot lived a 
 young Scotch settler, who had recently purchased a 
 lot of 100 acres from Mr D. He had already got 
 a very snug shanty erected, and was labouring away 
 with his oxen, blythe and cheerful, at a good hazel- 
 coloured sandy loam. Recognising at once, by his 
 dialect, from what part of Scotland he had come, I 
 inquired if he knew a particular friend of my own 
 on the Borders, and the poor fellow's ecstasy was 
 most amusing when he exclaimed that his own fa- 
 ther was a tenant upon my friend's estate. " Fm 
 sure" says he, " hell no hae forgot Walter Smith ; but 
 tell him you met the poacher, and hell be sure to mind 
 me.'' I of course hinted a suspicion that some mis- 
 hap attending that lawless character had accelerated 
 
 i2
 
 132 CI-DEVANT SCOTCH POACHER. 
 
 his movements across the Atlantic, which, however, 
 proved not to be the case. " At all events," I re- 
 marked, " you neither need certificate nor qualifica- 
 tion here: what do you principally shoot ?' " In- 
 deed," says he," if you'll believe me, Sir, 1 scar<;e ever 
 think about \i,for there's naehody here seeks to hinder 
 us ;" a remarkable answer, and not without its use 
 in forming a clew to the fiiscinations and excitement 
 of a smuggler's or a poacher's life. A herd of deer 
 only two days before, had wandered past him, yet 
 Walter felt no inclination to leave the plough, al- 
 though his rifle stood loaded in the shanty. He 
 will have thirty acres ready for wheat, to sow in 
 autumn, which, if he continues steady and indus- 
 trious, will make his way to independence clear 
 enough, as he paid down at entry the full price of 
 his land. " You want only a wife now," I observed, 
 " to make you complete." " Yes, Sir; but I'll 
 have her from Auld Scotland, ybr these Yankee lasses 
 are good for nmif/ht ; they'll hlaw the horn and tak a 
 man frae the pleugh to fetch them a sheet o water." 
 Ungallant as this speech may appear, it is neverthe- 
 less true, that American females almost exclusively 
 confine their attention to duties within doors. No- 
 thing can be more clean, tidy, and comfortable than 
 their domestic arrangements, but they are seldom, 
 indeed, expected to extend their services ; and the 
 surprise and incredulity of many a farmer in the 
 States was unspeakable, when I told them of wo- 
 men in the old covnli-y, of all ages, being regularly
 
 EQUESTRIAN EXCURSION, 133 
 
 seen at work in a turnip-field, or engaged in filling 
 a dung-cart. 
 
 There is a lovely sheet of water here, called the 
 Blue Lake, indented by finely wooded headlands ; 
 and, as I sat admiring it, I could not but set it down 
 as a splendid feature in park or lawn scenery, when 
 some demesne or villa shall be here laid out by the 
 hand and the eye of taste. A little further down 
 the river side, we passed a valuable gypsum quarry, 
 probably formed by vitriolic springs acting upon the 
 calcareous subsoil. It is extensively used, and the 
 deep verdure of the waggon-track, from what had 
 been scattered, spoke distinctly to its value as a top- 
 dressing. At a new settlement, named Paris, the 
 property of Mr Capron, we crossed the river by an 
 excellent bridge. The situation of Paris, I think, 
 promises success ; and Mr C. appears to avail him- 
 self of its natural advantages. Extensive grist-mills 
 are at work, and also one for preparing gypsum, all 
 upon a good mill-stream, which here joins the Ouse. 
 Several new buildings were in progress, and a post- 
 office is expected to be soon established. Upon the 
 same side of the river as Paris, I had observed, as 
 we rode along, many situations and farms apparent- 
 ly very desirable. 
 
 Since my visit, Mr B., from Scotland, has pur- 
 chased one of these from Mr D. ; it contained 200 
 acres, one-half of which has been lately cleared, and 
 the remainder is in heavy timber. There was a capi- 
 tal house and a large barn upon the property. The 
 price of the whole was £300. It is a beautiful si- 
 tuation about two miles above Paris ; and a friend of
 
 134 aiOHAWK VILLAGE. 
 
 mine, who saw Mr B. in September, was assured by 
 him that it had answered all his expectations, and 
 that he would not take £ 700 then for the purchase. 
 
 From Paris, where the river makes some beauti- 
 ful sweeps, we continued our ride through what is 
 called an Indian reserve. A large tract of land here 
 and around Brandtford belongs to the Mohawks, 
 and is managed by government in concert with their 
 own chiefs, for behoof of the tribe. The village is 
 named after John Brandt, a celebrated chief. We 
 found it, on our arrival, swarming with Indians, as 
 a sale of village lots had taken place that morning, 
 and high prices having been obtained (even at the 
 rate of £100 per acre), merrymaking and rejoicing 
 concluded the day. We spent the evening quietly 
 and pleasantly in a private family, but found our 
 quarters in the tavern somewhat noisy. My bed- 
 room was snug and clean, but a joyous ball in the 
 apartment below, with a noble frog-concert outside, 
 afforded me but little benefit from its comforts. 
 
 Brandtford appeared to me a pleasant situation. 
 The river winds finely past the platform on which 
 it stands, and, upon the opposite side, are extensive 
 holms not unlike the banks of the Earn in Scotland, 
 or of the Eden at Carlisle. Of these, a great part 
 belongs to the Indians, and will, probably for a long 
 time, remain unimproved*. Occasionally there are 
 farms to be had, and I should consider a purchase 
 here as likely to prove a good investment. I have 
 received the particulars of an estate which was for 
 
 • I have lately heard that these lands are about to come in- 
 to the market.
 
 MOHAWK VILLAGE. 135 
 
 sale last summer, from a friend who looked at it. 
 It is upon the west side of the Ouse, exactly oppo- 
 site to Brandtford, and contains 600 acres, eighty of 
 which are alluvial bottom land. It enjoys a valuable 
 water-power, capable of being- turned to account in 
 various ways : the price asked was 3500 dollars, or 
 £875. An American gentleman, who was inquiring 
 after it, expected to buy it for £ 750. About two 
 miles from Brandtford, an Indian village has been 
 established under the charge of Mr L., a clergyman 
 of the Church of England, sent out by the Society 
 for Propagating the Gospel. Next day being Sun- 
 day, we resolved to make a small detour, and attend 
 worship in their church. The institution embraces 
 both spiritual and secular objects. They have a 
 Mechanics' School, where instruction is given in 
 handicraft trades, and many, by steady progress in 
 acquiring knowledge, and in managing their farms, 
 afford sufficient evidence of their capacity to be 
 weaned from the dissolute habits, of the most disso- 
 lute of all human beings, a half-reclaimed savage. 
 Too many, however, of these poor creatures still 
 roam about, ignorant and idle, seldom indeed injur- 
 ing others, save in a moment of phrenzied intoxica- 
 tion, but utterly useless and unprofitable to the com- 
 munity and to themselves. 
 
 We were favoured with another lovely day, and 
 had a sweet ride to the Mohawk village. Mr R., 
 who is settled in Brandtford, rode along with us, 
 mounted upon a clever little Indian horse, of a breed 
 which they have kept always pure and distinct. In
 
 13fi MOHAWK VILLAGE — SUNDAY- 
 
 shape, size, and action, he reminded me strongly of 
 the Cossack. Mr R. had paid about £12 for him, 
 then four years old. He also spoke much of a pony 
 which he hjid lately purchased from the Indians, of 
 a breed also retained separate, and for which he had 
 given seven guineas. We found, upon our arrival, 
 the Sunday school at work, and it appeared to be 
 conducted in an orderly and becoming manner. Ig- 
 norance of the language precluded any further re- 
 niai-ks. The church is a neat, small building, in 
 which the male and female portions of the congre- 
 gation occupy respective divisions. The clergyman 
 required the aid of an interpreter in the reading- 
 desk and pulpit. No hearers could be more atten- 
 tive or devout than these cliildren of the forest. 
 The old men, with their milk-white heads and placid 
 dignified copper countenances, would have made ad- 
 mirable portraits, and all appeared to join earnestly 
 in the liturgy, and to listen with deep attention to a 
 plain, suitable discouz'se, upon the faith of Abraham, 
 in offering his son, and the assurance which all Chris- 
 tians may entertain, that in His all-wise and all-right- 
 eous way, the Lord will provide for his people in 
 every emergency, whether of a spiritual or temporal 
 tiature. 
 
 Many of the women possess remarkably amiable 
 expressions ; and the little ones, neatly swaddled up 
 into the shape of a Bologna sausage, were the fun- 
 niest, comical-looking bodies imaginable. It is com- 
 mon to have a flat board, to which tlie little animal 
 is strapped, and by which it can, at any time, b^
 
 MOHAWK VILLAGE. 13^' 
 
 safely hung up and put out of tlie way. After ser- 
 vice, I was introduced to two of the chief men, who 
 gave me their hands in a stately and somewhat con- 
 descending mannei-, saying at the same time, "Wel- 
 come, Scotsman." They were all well clothed, 
 though the fashions were certainly somewhat gro- 
 tesque. The head gear of many, especially of the 
 boys, exhibited a close affinity to oriental costume. 
 It is impossible not to feel a deep interest in the 
 Aborigines of this vast continent. As yet, (compa- 
 ratively speaking,) nothing has been done, nor any 
 equivalent return made, for what we have acquired 
 from them. Probably this is not the fair criterion 
 to assume, but unquestionably we are called upon to 
 make strenuous efforts towards instructing and ame- 
 liorating the condition of this race. Many a noble 
 quality do they possess, and too many of their vices, 
 I am afraid, must, in candour, be placed to our ac- 
 count. Self-possession, that useful ingredient of 
 character, shines conspicuous in their demeanour. 
 Place him where you will, the red man is never put 
 out. A friend related to me, having once met an 
 Indian chief at a European party, where, to his cer- 
 tain knowledge, every article and every arrange- 
 ment were absolutely new. To their amusement 
 and astonishment, not the slightest indication of sur- 
 prise or of awkwardness appeared. Every move- 
 ment seemed to come natural and easy. The eye, 
 to be sure, was unceasingly at woi-k, taking sharp 
 cognizance of all that passed, but he drank wine, 
 handled his knife and fork, and performed the vari-
 
 138 MOHAWK VILLAGE. 
 
 ous courtesies of a dinner table, witlioiit either bash- 
 fulness or blunder. The AEohawk village stands up- 
 on a fine point, round which the river flows. Seve- 
 ral of the people are beginning to settle upon farms, 
 and, in some of these, the husbandry is tolerably re- 
 spectable, but many are yet content to draw a pre- 
 carious subsistence from the river or the rifle. The 
 Mohawks are the most advanced Indians in this 
 quarter; the Cayugas, of whom we passed several 
 groups to-day, are evidently in a far more degraded 
 condition. 
 
 We now prosecuted our journey through wild 
 forest land, Avith well-improved tracts occasionally 
 intervening. I was greatly pleased with the neigh- 
 bourhood of Ancaster, a straggling village, without 
 any mill-stream, but placed on high ground, in a 
 healthy, open delightful situation, having a well im- 
 proved country around, many pleasant farms and 
 orchards, and abundance of fine water for domestic 
 use. When inspecting a liouse near the road, I re- 
 cognised the faces of some of the Somersetshire 
 paupers, who had been my fellow-passengers from 
 Quebec, and who were to be turned adrift at Mon- 
 treal. Our time admitted of little colloquy, but I 
 soon learned that the party was dispersed, with small 
 prospect of friends meeting again. Some had found 
 engagements, while others, like this detachment, 
 were wandering about in search of it. The poor 
 fellows were so contented and cheerftd, that they 
 excited our pity, and renewed my regret that no pre- 
 vious arrangements had been made for their employ-
 
 TOWN OF HAMILTON. 
 
 139 
 
 ment or location. A few miles below Ancaster, we 
 found ourselves on the brow of a bold and rocky hill, 
 covered with wood, from which there is one of the 
 finest prospects which Canada aflFords. The hill 
 forms part of the remarkable ridge already men- 
 tioned, as connecting the State of New York with 
 Canada ; and we were now to descend from it to the 
 town of Hamilton, situate upon a rich and exten- 
 sive plain, in all probability once covered by the wa- 
 ters of Ontario. The lake stretched out its noble 
 expanse, and the softened tints of a lovely evening 
 gave infinite beauty and variety to the landscape. 
 Hamilton is a new town, regularly laid out, with a 
 very handsome court-house, erected for the district. 
 This is a stage upon the high road, round Burling- 
 ton Bay, and connecting York with Queenston. It 
 possesses no particular advantages for trade, but 
 seems likely enough to increase as a market-town, 
 in a rich and improving part of the country. Upon 
 reaching the tavern, we found the coach by which I 
 was to proceed nearly ready to start, and to travel 
 all night. This was not exactly the arrangement 
 which I could have desired, feeling more disposed 
 for a good bed than for such repose as I was likely 
 to find in the stage, besides having to pass through 
 a fine country in the dark. Having mentioned my 
 disappointment to the stage-owner, and to the pas- 
 sengers, they agreed, in the most obliging manner, 
 to defer the journey until an early hour of the fol- 
 lovring morning ; and, having got tea, accompanied
 
 140 TOWN OF HAMILTON. 
 
 by an excellent beef-steak, we retired to rest. I 
 should mention that luy lug-gage, of which the bulk 
 had been sent forwai-d from Summer's tavern, ad- 
 dressed to the postmaster of Hamilton, was now 
 safely handed over to me, without a slulling being 
 charged for its conveyance.
 
 ( 1^1 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Journey from Hamilton to Grimsby and St Catharine's — Re- 
 turn to Niagara — American Fall — Goat Island — Leaping 
 the Fall — A Canadian Spring Day. 
 
 Monday \^th. — I sauntered early to the skirts ot 
 the village, while the coach was preparing-, and 
 witnessed a brilliant sunrise. Ontario fully sus- 
 tsiined a comparison with the ocean, in giving ef- 
 fect to a sight, so magnificent and yet so little re- 
 garded. We have it always at our command, and 
 therefore disregard it ; but who that occasionally 
 witnesses it, does not marvel at his own sloth, in so 
 rarely partaking of the enjoyment ? The romantic 
 limestone ridge, covered with fine wood, and the 
 thrush, straining his throat from the peach and apple 
 trees loaded with blossom, with the tinkling bells of 
 the village cows, as they went forth to pasture, 
 formed altogether a refreshing commencement of a 
 delightful day. We made Grimsby to breakfast, a 
 distance of eighteen miles. The country was in 
 many places romantic and beautiful, with fine farms 
 and rich orchards of peach, plum, cherry, apple, &c. 
 affording the most luxuriant promise. The wheat 
 was remarkably fine, and the oat-braird looked fresh 
 and well. The soil in general appeared to be clay. 
 The road was tolerably good, and was bounded on
 
 142 TOAVN OF GRIMSBY. 
 
 the west by the wooded ridge, with Ontario at a 
 short distance on the east. Grimsby is a sweet lit- 
 tle town near (perhaps too near) the margin of the 
 lake, and nestling under the brow of the ridge, from 
 whence issues a fine mill-stream, converted of course 
 to good use. Our next stage was St Catharine's, a 
 town upon the summit-level of tlie Welland Canal, 
 wliicli at this point descends by wooden locks to the 
 level of tlie lake. Here 1 encountered my friend 
 
 Dr D upon his voyage to Goderich, upon Lake 
 
 Huron. The canal is barely ready, and I believe 
 the Doctor's scliooner is one of the first vessels which 
 has passed. From this place to Queenston, the 
 country is, for the most part, under culture, and 
 capable, 1 should think, in many places of being 
 turned to good account, by laying it properly down 
 to pasture. The rye was in ear, and the orchards 
 still numerous and rich. 
 
 When I got to Queenston, and expressed an ur- 
 gent desire to get forward, the landlord begged that 
 I would entrust my luggage to him, to be sent for- 
 ward on the following morning, and walk up the hill 
 to the coach which I saw waiting for some travellers, 
 then visiting the monument of General Brock. That 
 a public conveyance should make such a pause, ex- 
 cited no surprise after what I had myself experien- 
 ced at Hamilton ; and I lost no time in taking pos- 
 session, no remark being made by the coachman. 
 Presently three gentlemen and a little boy made their 
 appearance, and I could discover that something re- 
 ^Huired explanation, which proved to be that I had
 
 AMERICAN FALL. 143 
 
 deposited myself sans ceremonie in their private car- 
 riage or extra. I found tliem, however, uncommonly 
 civil, and they would on no account allow me to re- 
 move. The hardship, after all, would not have been 
 very great, as it was but a pleasant walk of seven 
 miles in a lovely evening to my home at the Falls. 
 I have said my home, and, truly, the easy hospitality 
 of my friends rendered it so in every respect. We 
 had a clear moon to-night, and Niagara presented to 
 me its beauties in a new and most interesting garb. 
 I have already declared against lengthy or formal 
 descriptions ; and as to impressions, I have only to 
 say that the scene interested me far more vividly 
 upon i-enewing my acquaintance, than even upon 
 my first introduction. 
 
 Tuesday \lth. — Another lovely day. I proceeded, 
 after breakfast to the Ferry, for the purpose of visit- 
 ing the American fall. The ferryman's wife told 
 me that, on the day when I was formerly there, her 
 husband was prevented by the ice from returning 
 until a late hour, and only then got across, by catch- 
 ing a casual opening in the shoals. Next morning 
 the accumulation above the Falls gave way, and 
 came down with such a crash that " she really 
 thought the world was at an end." I was soon and 
 safely put across, but a man does feel somewhat 
 queer, when he contemplates the roaring cataract 
 above, distilling its dews, copious and heavy as a 
 Scotch mist, the ugly ripple on the water, and the 
 cockle-shell boat bobbing and dancing like an angler's 
 float. In fact, however, there is little or no danger,
 
 144 GOAT ISLAND. 
 
 and an accident I believe to be altogether unknown. 
 The whole scene, when viewed about halfway across, 
 is indeed sublime, and certainly not to be described. 
 Upon reaching the American shore, a convenient 
 and safe woodc^n stair enables the traveller to reach 
 the top (»f the precipice. When about half-way up, 
 he will find himself brought into almost appalling 
 contact with the American fall. It is more confined 
 than the British, but the body of water is absolutely 
 confounding to look at. The village of Manchester 
 is at a short distance, with good hotels, and various 
 mills at Avork. A remarkable bridge, immediately 
 above the Fall, communicates with Goat Island, on 
 part of which is a paper-mill, the whole belonging to 
 General Porter. The bridge, for which a snudl pont- 
 age is exacted, must have been an awkward affair to 
 construct, but has proved itself perfectly safe and 
 secure. The piers were obtained by sinking coffers, 
 and filling these with massy blocks of stone. The 
 museum and paper-mill are both worthy of inspec- 
 tion. At the latter, fancy sheets are to be had, as 
 memorii\ls of a visit. Goat Island is a lovely spot, 
 covered with lofty timber, and enamelled with na- 
 tive flowers. General Porter, I understand, has 
 thoughts of laying it out as a residence, and a most 
 delightful one it will be, for river scenery, certainly 
 unrivalled. Paths are formed in various directions, of 
 which one terminates at tlie verge of the great Horse- 
 shoe Fall. A slender platform or pier projects for a 
 consideral)le distance into the stream, from the ex- 
 tremity of which your eye rests on the dread abyss. 
 It is a fearful gnlf, and required all the head I could
 
 LEAPING THE FALL. 
 
 145 
 
 muster to look down upon it. Indeed, had not my 
 courag-e been strengthened by observing two carpen- 
 ters at work on the farther extremity, I verily be- 
 lieve that I should scarce have ventured. 
 
 A short way below, and still upon the island, is 
 the spot where Sam Patch, of noted folly, amused 
 the public by leaping from a ladder, as it was said, 
 down the Fall of Niagara. Now, there can be no 
 manner of doubt, that Sam took a most respectable 
 jump, but still it had little to do with the Fall. It 
 was in fact a plunge into the boiling cauldron, and a 
 lad of fourteen, son of the American ferryman, 
 thought fit, not long since, as the father informed 
 me, and without his knowledge, to perform the 
 same somerset, merely for his own recreation. This 
 young Triton, upon my return to-day, presented 
 himself to ferry me back ; and it was my lack of 
 faith in his powers at the oar which elicited the ac- 
 count of this feat, with the additional assurance that 
 a younger brother and he frequently swam the ferry, 
 to and fro. This, however, being rather more like- 
 ly to benefit himself than his cargo, I preferred put- 
 ting myself into the hands of the elder Charon. I 
 remained for some hours upon the island, and, befoi'e 
 leaving it, witnessed the prismatic colours flitting 
 and changing, in endless variety, over the fall. * 
 
 * Had Byron visited Niagara, in what strains would his muse 
 have sung, when, in praise of Terni, he describes in those beau- 
 tiful lines, how 
 
 " An Iris sits, amidst the infernal surge 
 Like Hope upon a deathbed, and unworn 
 
 K
 
 146 A CANADIAN SPRING DAY. 
 
 Tlie title of horse-shoe is becoming every year less 
 appropriate, from the detrition of the rock ; and Mr 
 
 C directed my attention to a stone placed, not 
 
 many years ago, as a test, which palpably ilhistrates 
 the fact. This has been a day of infinite enjoyment, 
 and the close of it not a little enlivened by Dr 
 
 D , who arrived to dinner, with a budget fidl of 
 
 anecdote and fun. He found the canal rather te- 
 dious, and ordered his schooner to rendezvous at 
 Buffalo. 
 
 Wednesday, \Qth May. — Vs'g had some warm 
 showers this morning, which have imparted a de- 
 lightful freshness to the air, and perfumed it with 
 the fragrant odours of the peach and other fruit- 
 trees. Vegetation is rushing forward with all that 
 rapidity which distinguishes a Canadian spring. The 
 gaudy little humming-birds have been seen flutter- 
 ing about the garden ; the grapes, quinces, currants, 
 <S:c. are well formed, and every thing around is in 
 
 beauty. Dr D and 1 had a charming ramble 
 
 down the river side to the Whirlpool, a wild and 
 tremendous scene of confusion. It is occasioned 
 chiefly by an island, which obstructs the current, 
 and accumulates logs and drift-wood, about four 
 miles below the Falls. The precipitous rocks on 
 each side, thickly wooded, with the thundering noise 
 
 Its steady dyes, while all around is torn 
 
 By the distracted waters, hears serene 
 
 Its Ijrilliant liues, witli all its beams unshorn, 
 
 Resembling, 'mid the torture of the scene, 
 
 Love watcliiiig Madness, with unalterable mien."
 
 A CANADIAN SPRING DAY. 147 
 
 of the inclignaiit stream, form a compound of the sub- 
 lime and beautiful rarely equalled. We wandered 
 over many lovely spots, where, peradventure, the 
 man of taste may, at some future day, be led to com- 
 bine the beauties of nature and of art, and when that 
 hour shall arrive, a truly enviable field awaits liim 
 upon the banks of the Niagara. Our walk led us 
 over a part of the battle-ground at Lundyslaw, 
 where American and British blood profusely flowed, 
 and a spot was pointed out, where intelligence was 
 wont to be conveyed to the British, from the Ame- 
 rican side of the river, by aid of the bow-string. 
 Our Canadian settlers fought with unbounded gal- 
 lantry and devotion during that unfortunate period, 
 and sustained severe and very heavy losses of pro- 
 perty, besides the blood so freely shed in the cause. 
 What might be the issue of another dispute, 
 (which may God avert), is hard to say ; state affairs 
 are not for me to handle ; but this is certain, that 
 while the American citizens have been reimbursed, 
 the Canadians have failed in obtaining the slightest 
 compensation, and such a contrast acting upon hu- 
 man nature, is too palpable in its effects to require 
 illustration. We may reasonably assume, that it 
 will operate unfavourably, while another cause is 
 silently bearing on the same point. The Yankee 
 who was my guide at Kingston to the Rideau Canal, 
 among various questions, asked me if I thought an- 
 other war likely to occur. I said with truth, tliat I 
 trusted such an event was far off ; to whicli he an- 
 swered, " Well, Sir, I guess, if we don't fight for a 
 
 k2
 
 148 A CANADIAN SPRING DAY. 
 
 year or two, we won't figlit at all, for we are marry- 
 ing so fast, Sir, that a man M'on't be sure but he may 
 shoot his fatlier or his brother-in-law." 
 
 The day proved extremely hot for its early date 
 in the kalondar, and I was glad to adopt Jonathan's 
 plan, of strutting along with my coat on my arm in 
 place of my back. Thirst, too, had its triumph, and 
 I scarce recollect of any thing more welcome, than 
 a beverage with which my companion regaled me at 
 Forsyth's, under some odd name, but ^A•hich consist- 
 ed of a bottle of good brown stout, turned into a 
 quart of well iced water, with a quant, stiff, of gin- 
 ger, cinnamon, and sugar ; truly it was a prescrip- 
 tion worthy of being filed. From the roof of For- 
 syth's hotel there is a fine panoramic view of the 
 Falls, well Avorthy of a visit, and where I lingered, 
 with many a feeling of regret that I was so soon to 
 take my departure. If any man has really expe- 
 rienced disappointment in visiting Niagara, I must 
 commend him to the quaint, though somewhat na- 
 tional remark of an Irishman, addressed to such fas- 
 tidious travellers, that " unless they had really ex- 
 pected to see a river falling vp, he can't tell what 
 they have to grumble at." 
 
 I parted from my friends on the following day, 
 with a grateful sense of all their kindness, and of the 
 special good fortune M'hich had attended me in re- 
 gard to weather, &c. The Buffalo stage called for 
 me about three o'clock, and with more unwillingness 
 than I can well express, I bade adieu to Niagara *. 
 
 • App. No. 5.
 
 ( 149 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Visit to Buffalo — Hints to Emigrants as to the Choice of a Si- 
 tuation in Canada — JMeans of Education — Prices of Live- 
 stock, Implements, Produce, liabour. Furniture 
 
 Our road lay along the river, which here varies 
 from half a mile to a mile in hreadth. The country- 
 is well cultivated and improved. A mill-stream falls 
 in at Chippeway, where is a small fort, and was the 
 scene of some hard fighting in the last war. Grand 
 Island, belonging to the States, is a conspicuous ob- 
 ject, partly settled; it contains, I believe, 17,000 
 acres. We left Canada at Black Rock, a small town 
 on the American Bank, and which once formed the 
 basin or commencement of the Grand Canal. Na- 
 ture, however, strongly designates Buffalo as the 
 entrepot for the lake and canal commerce, and there 
 it will undoubtedly centre. Black Rock was sur- 
 prized by the British in 1814, and considerable da- 
 mage done. We crossed by a ferry-boat, leaving 
 the coach at Waterloo, a paltry village on the Ca- 
 nada shore, not far from the ruins of Fort Erie. 
 When across, we experienced some little inconve- 
 nience in getting ashore, owing to certain canal ope- 
 rations. In general, the arrangements for travellers 
 are most complete ; but here I felt rather at a loss,
 
 J-jO 
 
 VISIT TO BUFFALO. 
 
 as no car appeared to convey onr Inggage to where 
 the coach awaited us in the town, at some distance. 
 In this dilemma, a respectable looking man wlio had 
 crossed with us, addressed nie Avith, " I guess, Sir, 
 I must give you a lift," and, before I could answer, 
 shouldered my portmanteau, which was of a size and 
 weight that had often made me asliamed to father it, 
 while keeping a paternal eye upon its movements, 
 and off he marched for the town, I bringing up the 
 rear with my sac-de-nuit, &c. [laving seen my lug- 
 gage safely deposited in the boot, a doubt arose how 
 to deal with my kind friend, nor could I divest my- 
 self of an oldcountry feeling, that a gratuity was fair- 
 ly earned and expected. I at once discovered, how- 
 ever, that I was in the wrong box. It was an act 
 of pure disinterested kindness to a stranger, whom 
 he saw in a difficulty ; and I record it with the greater 
 pleasure, because, from other occurrences of a like 
 nature, I feel warranted, in my own experience, to 
 deny the rude and selfish habits ascribed to the Ame- 
 ricans, and to testify their obliging and accommoda- 
 ting disposition. A short drive of two miles brought 
 us to Buffalo, where we found capital quarters with 
 Mr Harrinian at the Eagle. The town was particu- 
 larly crowded at tliis season, always a busy one, and 
 increased to-day from the formation of a favourite 
 new bank. The Eagle had its full complement of 
 guests, and the landlord, without any remark from 
 me, most courteously apologized for not having a 
 single-bedded room to offer me. This matter, which 
 should not be of great moment to a traveller, in a
 
 HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 151 
 
 case of necessity, was still less so at present, as, in 
 
 place of a stranger, I had my friend Dr D to 
 
 occupy the chamber along with me. 
 
 And now when about to leave Canada, T am anxi- 
 ous to offer a few remarks of a miscellaneous nature, 
 which have either been omitted, or which would 
 have been misplaced, in the previous pages. Few 
 things will puzzle an emigrant more than the choice 
 of a situation ; and the contradictory statements 
 which selfish motives will present to him, require his 
 utmost prudence and caution to sift. In general, he 
 ought to be in no hurry. If he can aiford to board 
 with a respectable family for some months, I am 
 confident that his time and money will be well re- 
 paid, by the knowledge and experience which may 
 be thus acquired. Besides the parts of the country 
 I have touched upon, there are many others at least 
 equally suitable. The Sandwich, Amherst, and 
 Maiden districts are very desirable, and being far 
 west, few comparatively think of visiting them. 
 Tlie climate is equal to any part of the province. 
 There is a daily line of steamers from Buffalo to 
 Detroit River, on which they lie ; and my Queen- 
 ston friend ]\Ir H. writes me that he is to launch a 
 steamer this season, to run from Chippeway to Sand- 
 wich. The style of farming is bad, the settlers be- 
 ing mostly descended from French Canadians, and 
 retaining all their unprofitable habits. The price 
 asked for uncleared land is about 15s. or 20s. per 
 acre ; and some of the old farms may be had reason- 
 able enough.
 
 lo2 HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 
 
 The salubrity or uiiwliolesome nature of a climate 
 is a matter of lii^li importance to the inhabitants, 
 and still more so to those who encounter it as stran- 
 gers. U|)i»i'r Canada may safely be pronounced a 
 healthy climate. It is certainly subjected to g'reat- 
 er extremes of heat and of cold than the maritime 
 countiy of Britain, but, with ordinary attention, an 
 equal poi'tiou of health and of longevity may be en- 
 joyed in Canada as in any part of the globe. Win- 
 ter in the Lower Province is always longer, and fre- 
 quently more severe, than in the Upper, and in this 
 consists any difference between them. But have we 
 not heard of fever and .igue in every part of them 
 both ? True — aguish attacks prevail here and in 
 the States, even as they have done in our own boast- 
 ed climate, within the recollection of thousands still 
 alive. In a new country, while it is yet in a raw 
 state, such things must for a time be expected ; but 
 even the poor and hard worked emigrant has too of- 
 ten his own folly and imprudence to thank for his 
 sufferings. Reckless and foolhardy, he exposes his 
 person to noxious vapours from the swampy borders 
 of a lake, or to some sudden chill, when predisposed 
 to fever from fatigue, or in a state of profuse per- 
 spiration. Others, again, fall victims to intemper- 
 ance, and the blame rests, most unjustly, witli the 
 climate. There are two, or perhaps three, table- 
 lands in Canada, which increase in salubrity as you 
 rise above the level of tiie lakei:, and, of course, these 
 are points to be kept in view when choosing a loca- 
 tion. That a certain degree of miasma exists is ne-
 
 ""hints to emigrants. 153 
 
 vertlieless certain, because even infants carefully at- 
 tended to, are occasionally subject to aguish attacks; 
 but, in general, a reasonable attention to sobriety, 
 cleanliness, and personal comfort, all prove preven- 
 tives, and the disease is generally admitted to be on 
 the decrease. In some seasons it breaks forth whole- 
 sale, like epidemics in other parts of the world. 
 Three years ago this occurred in the Upper Pro- 
 vince. The season had been extremely hot and 
 moist. The waters of Ontario, generally clear as 
 crystal, cast up a slime in the month of July ; and 
 towards autumn, fever and ague raged throughout 
 the land. Quinine is, of course, known to be a so- 
 vereign specific ; and for more ordinary practice, a 
 tea-spoonful of sulphur in a wine-glass of brandy or 
 other spirit, taken two or three times a-day, accom- 
 panied by cathartics and moderate nourishing diet, 
 with suitable clothing, generally effect a cure. 
 
 There are three public matters which have occa- 
 sioned some excitement in the Upper Provinces, and 
 may be shortly adverted to. 
 
 1st, The oath of allegiance has been condemned 
 for causing unreasonable and unnecessary discour- 
 agement to settlers from the States. After having 
 heard a good deal of discussion on both sides, from 
 those who ought to be best informed upon the sub- 
 ject, I believe the discouragement to be either ima- 
 ginary or much exaggerated, and that, in fact, Ame- 
 rican citizens are subjected to no heavier obligation 
 than what every government is entitled to exact, and 
 to which foreigners from other countries are equally 
 liable.
 
 i:;4 
 
 OLD SURVEYS. 
 
 2d, The old surveys and plans by which townships 
 were laid out, and sections divided, have been too 
 often inaccurate, and have given rise to much confu- 
 sion, and an interminable crop of litigation. I heard 
 many details of trouble and expense to landowners 
 from this source, and perhaps some revisal and ad- 
 justment by commission, or otherwise, might be advis- 
 able. In a work, which, with many faults, is pit)- 
 bably the most valuable statistical record yet in print, 
 upon Upper Canada (I allude to the work of Mr 
 Gourlay), the defects of the towiiship sm'veys are 
 clearly and judiciously pointed out. ]Mr Gourlay 
 obsen^es, that " Such was the haste to get land given 
 away, that ignorant and careless men were employed 
 to measure it out, and such a mess did they make 
 of their land-measuring, that one of the present sur- 
 veyors informed me, that in ruiming new lines over 
 a great extent of the Province, he found spare room 
 for a xoliole townsh'qi in the midst of those laid out at 
 an early period. It may be readily conceived, up- 
 on consideration of this fact, what blundering has 
 been committed, and what mistakes stand for cor- 
 rection. Boundary lines in the wilderness are mark- 
 ed by blazing, as it is termed, that is, chopping off 
 with an axe a little bark from such trees as stand 
 nearest to the line. Careless surveyors can be 
 readily suj)posed to depart wide of the truth with 
 this blazing ; <ind the measuring chains cannot run 
 very straight, and their comp.iss needles, where 
 these are called in aid, may be greatly diverted from 
 the right direction by ferruginous substances. In
 
 CANALS. 155 
 
 short, numerous mistakes and errors have beeu made 
 and discovered, much dispute has arisen thereon, and 
 I have been tohl that infinite mischief is yet in store. 
 It occurred to me, when in Canada, and it was one 
 of the objects which, had a commission come home, 
 I meant to have pressed upon the notice of Govern- 
 ment, that a complete new survey and map of the 
 province should be executed ; and, at the same time, 
 a book, after the maimer of Doomsday Book, writ- 
 ten out and published, setting forth all the original 
 grants, and describing briefly, but correctly, all pro- 
 perty, public and private." 
 
 3d, Great has been the obloquy heaped upon the 
 canals, and in many particulars, perhaps, not with- 
 out cause. At the same time, when all indirect con- 
 sequences are taken into account, the evil and loss 
 may not be so great as many would represent it. 
 To draw inferences from the superior advantage of 
 railways, I hold to be unfair, as the canals have been 
 so long in progress, and the other can only be said 
 to have secured public confidence since the cities 
 of Manchester and Liverpool became as one. A ca- 
 nal to unite Lake Erie with Ontario, so wonderfully 
 separated by nature, and yet so important to conjoin, 
 seems a reasonable object of mercantile enterprise to 
 achieve. Whether it has been planned and executed 
 in the best possible line and most economical man- 
 ner, are questions separate and distinct; but it ought 
 surely to be more a subject of regret than of con- 
 tumely, if it is destined to be superseded by a rail- 
 way from Chippeway to Queenston, — an important
 
 156 MEANS OF EDUCATION. 
 
 measure — wliicli, though checked for a season, there 
 can be little doubt will be ultimately carried through, 
 and must prove of the greatest advantage. The line 
 has been surveyed, and the expense will not exceed 
 £ 10,000 or £ 12,000. It is not unlikely that the 
 Americans will construct either a canal or railway 
 from Lockport to Ontario, connecting the Erie Ca- 
 nal with the lake, and which must prove another 
 heavy abduction of traffic from the Welland. The 
 Rideau Canal is one so entirely in the hands of Go- 
 vernment, that I shall leave it there without remark 
 or discussion. 
 
 Education is a subject which cannot fail to inte- 
 rest emigrants, and it may be of importance for those 
 of a higher class to know that the style of education 
 for both sexes is rapidly improving. The Upper 
 Canada College at York is well endowed, and when 
 its wild acres shall be settled and cultivated, will be- 
 come an institution not to be sneered at by any Al- 
 ma Hater at home. The charges at present are, 
 
 Preparatory School for Boys. 
 
 General Branches, per quarter, . . .£150 
 Pens, fuel, ice. per ditto, . . . . 5 
 
 College for Senior Boys. 
 
 Classical and General Branches, per quarter, £2 
 Pens, fuel, &c. per ditto, . . . . 5 
 
 Drawing, per ditto, 10 
 
 Books extra. 
 
 Board, under the surveillance of the Principal, £25 per an- 
 num.
 
 HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 157 
 
 Besides which, there are other hoarding-houses in 
 York, and boarding-schools at Cornwall, &c.* 
 
 I would now wish to offer a few remarks to those 
 who feel disposed to emigrate, from a view rather to 
 prospective advantage tlian from the call of stern ne- 
 cessity, or from inability to provide for a numerous 
 family at home. Assuming such an individual to be 
 a man of sober habits, by which I would be under- 
 stood to mean not merely a distaste for debauchery, 
 but of a temperament which derives its chief enjoy- 
 ment from the domestic circle, and from useful and 
 rational pursuits ; to such a man I am not afraid to 
 say, that Canada holds out an inviting field of enter- 
 prize and profitable occupation. Let him not, how- 
 ever, suppose that he is just at once to bask in the 
 full glare of prosperity. Many disagremens await 
 him, but none which a man of ordinary discretion 
 and perseverance will be long of surmounting. The 
 circumstances, connexions, and habits of individuals 
 are so various and so opposite, that it would be vain 
 to draw up a scheme of settlement suitable or pa- 
 latable to all. Nothing, however, is more certain 
 than this, that here, as in all human arrangements, 
 much benefit may be derived from combined efforts. 
 For such a purpose, my own wish would be to form 
 a small association of colonists, who would go to 
 market for a tract of land suited to their purpose, 
 
 * Arrangements are also, I believe, in progress for the ear- 
 ly establishment of a Female Boarding School of a superior 
 description, in or near York.
 
 15R HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 
 
 and which there ciiii be; no doubt they would pro- 
 cure in a large block, and for a price to be paid 
 down, upon very advantageous terms. Having 
 made the purchase, let each individual be imme- 
 diately p'lt in absolute possession of bis own estate. 
 Future arrangements would be dictated by circum- 
 stances ; and self-interest, the most efficient of all 
 cigents, could be easily brought to bear upon the 
 good of all. Artisans, machinery, live-stock, with 
 many other requisites, could be procured, at a re- 
 munerating rate for a community, which would never 
 Jiave paid a return to individual settlers, and a pros- 
 j)erou5 advance might soon be looked for. Of 
 (bourse, I cannot be supposed to contemplate a com- 
 munion of property, or such-like wise-headed 
 dreiuns ; but the mutual solace and comfort of ten or 
 a dozen respectable families thus planted together, is 
 beyond any estimate we can form. Sickness and 
 death itself would be shorn of many terrors to the 
 liead of a family, when thus assured of his little ones 
 having kind and willing friends around him, em- 
 barked in the same concern, and yet having no teni])- 
 tation to injure or defratid. Objections to such a 
 plan may be raised upon the ground of human fickle- 
 ness and whim, and certainly the selection would re- 
 quire to be made with strict attention to charsvcter 
 and sense; but no insuperable difficulty presents it- 
 se'lf to my mind, which should pi-event it from 
 being carried into successful operation. I would 
 have the stock agreed upon placed in the hands of 
 respectable agents, as the Upper Canada Bank, or a
 
 HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 159 
 
 bank at home, a small committee appointed, and 
 power given to make a purchase, and to have it sur- 
 veyed and divided, and each man's portion set off by- 
 lot, or in such other way as might be preferred. 
 Should any special advantage, as a mill-power, gyp- 
 sum-quarry, &c. accrue to one portion of the property, 
 it might be again appropriated by lot, or have such 
 conditions attached to it, for common behoof, as 
 would place all the parties on a par. 
 
 Our farming interests at home have been severely 
 scourged of late years, and capital has been, at each 
 revolving term, compelled to meet demands, which 
 profits, reasonably expected, ought to have supplied. 
 Nor is it perhaps the least lamentable part of the 
 case, that, notwithstanding the too palpable loss be- 
 fore their eyes, scarce a farm comes into the market 
 without a very general competition. How shall we 
 seek to solve conduct so much at variance with ordi- 
 nary discretion ? Perhaps it frequently arises from 
 a man having grown up to middle life, with his ha- 
 bits and views fixed beyond a change; or, again, with 
 a valuable stock in hand, for which no adequate 
 price is to be had, — in such a predicament there 
 scarce remains for him, a choice but to venture upon 
 another cast. 
 
 Many are the worthy and respectable men of this 
 description, who may certainly better their condition 
 by a i-emoval to Canada ; at the same time, it is a 
 serious step, not to be lightly adopted, and which, 
 above all, they should remember, cannot, with safety, 
 consistency, or credit, be retraced. In Canada he
 
 100 HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 
 
 will become proprietor m fee-simple of lands, at a 
 rate per acre, wliich would scarce pay half of his 
 yearhf rent at liome : but this is only to be effected 
 at a sacrifice of early ties and connexions, and by a 
 cheerful submission to many privations and bothera- 
 tions, Avliich will require a steady and cheerful tem- 
 per to surmount. From the prices of land, the 
 rates of wages and labour, and the value of produce, 
 Avhich have been given, and for the accuracy of 
 which, I think I can pledge my credit, every man 
 will be enabled to form some judgment for himself, 
 so far as written statements avail ; and I will only 
 again repeat, that Upper Canada certainly appears 
 to me blessed with all the solid materials of human 
 happiness, independence and comfort. How long 
 she is to continue in pupilage, or when the period 
 will arrive when the parental tie is to be severed, 
 are questions, momentous indeed, but difficult to 
 solve. It must, however, be the anxious desire of 
 every patriotic Briton and Canadian, that, happen 
 when it may, or how it may, a cordial spirit of mu- 
 tual concession and good will shall form the basis of 
 bringing it to an adjustment. In this, and in no 
 other tvay, can either country hope to derive from it 
 security or advantage. 
 
 I shall now conclude this portion of my Notes, 
 with some Tables, drawn from sources equally au- 
 thentic, though different from those already given.
 
 PRICES OF LIVE-STOCK, &C. 
 
 161 
 
 Prices of Live- Stock, Upper Canada. 
 
 Ilorses, .... 
 
 L.7 10 to L. 10 
 
 
 
 Oxen for labour, per pair, . 
 
 15 17 10 
 
 
 
 Milch Cows, 
 
 3 15 5 
 
 
 
 Implements, Sfc. 
 
 Waggon for a pair of horses. 
 
 Harness for do. do 
 
 A plough, 
 
 Brake-harrow, 
 
 Long chains to drag trees, each 
 
 Double horse-sleigh. 
 
 Common ox-sleigh, 
 
 L.20 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 Produce. 
 
 Wheat per bushel, 
 
 L.O 
 
 3 
 
 6 to 
 
 L.O 5 
 
 
 
 Barley do. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Oats do. 
 
 
 
 ] 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Indian corn, do. 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 Pease do. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Potatoes do. 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Hay per ton, 
 
 , 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 10 
 
 
 
 Wages and Labour. 
 
 Hire of a man for farm- work, with board, per 
 
 month, L. 
 
 Do. of female for ordinary house-work, per month. 
 
 Carpenter per day, ..... 
 
 Blacksmith on job per month. 
 
 Do. for a set of shoes, .... 
 
 Chopping per acre, .... 
 
 Logging (collecting and dragging) do. 
 
 Ordinary fencing of split rails, per rood. 
 
 Post and rail fencing, per rood. 
 
 Sowing and harrowing per acre. 
 
 Reaper's wages (find themselves) per day, 
 
 2 10 
 
 
 
 1 10 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 4 5 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 1 10 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 5 
 

 
 162 
 
 PRICES OF HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE. 
 
 Commonlaliourersatliuiiancornorpotatoworkjdo. L.O 3 6 
 Wheat, reaped, and hauled iuto rick-vard and 
 
 stacked, per acre, . . . , , 10 
 
 Thrashinj; and winnowing, per bushel, . C 
 
 Household Furniture. 
 
 Handsome sideboard, two doors, and five 
 
 Secretary or writing-table, 
 
 Sofas, ..... 
 
 Dining-tables — three to a set, 
 
 Bureaus, six drawers. 
 
 Do. do. plain. 
 
 Do. with four drawers, 
 
 Breakfast- tables, 
 
 Black walnut chairs, hair-bottoms, each 
 
 Common "Windsor chair, each, 
 
 Drawing-room table, claw feet. 
 
 Do. do. do. plain, 
 
 Bedsteads, high posts. 
 
 Tent do. .... 
 
 Dressing-table and washstand. 
 
 Double washstand, 
 
 Light washstand, . . 
 
 Ladies' work-table, 
 
 drawers, L. 15 
 
 10 
 
 . L. 12to 15 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 1 5 
 
 
 1 15 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 7 10 
 
 
 4 10 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 1 10 
 
 
 1 10 
 
 
 1 10 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 1 10 
 
 These articles are handsomely and substantially 
 finished ; and the native woods, such as bird's-eye 
 maple, black walnut, birch, elm, oak, cherry, &c. sup- 
 ply excellent and beautiful materials.
 
 ( 163 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Tovm of Buffaloe — The Bank — American Hotels — Track-Boat 
 on the Erie Canal for Rochester — Floating Menagerie — De- 
 posit of Fossil Wood in progress to Coal — Anecdotes of New 
 Orleans by an American Traveller. 
 
 Having, with sincere regret, for the present, bid 
 adieu to Canada, I am now to offer a few cursory 
 remarks upon my homeward route through the Uni- 
 ted States, which, however insignificant, may yet 
 prove acceptable, as the result of candid and unpre- 
 judiced observation. 
 
 There is perhaps nothing more difficult in the 
 note-book of an American traveller, than to assign 
 their due and proper status to the places which he 
 may visit on the Western Continent, where a mill 
 and a few paltry stores or shops start, as it were by 
 magic, into importance, and where he will hear of 
 the busy transactions of men, carried on in villages 
 or towns, which he may look for in vain upon his 
 map. Buffaloe was becoming a place of some im- 
 portance in 1814, when it was burnt by the British 
 in a hostile incursion, and would, in our old jog-trot 
 part of the world, have been most probably thereby 
 utterly extinguished, or throwTi back for a long and 
 indefinite period. Not so, however, here. 
 
 l2
 
 164 TOWN OP BUFPALOE. 
 
 A spirit of enterprize, which, witliout doubt, cha- 
 racterizes the citizens of America, forbade the local 
 advantages of sucli a place to remain dormant. The 
 town is now rapidly advancing in wealth and trade, 
 full of bustling merchants, and stores amply provided 
 with the products of every quarter of the globe. 
 The navigation of the great inland seas, and of the 
 Grand Canal, here uniting, must confirm the prospe- 
 rity of Buffaloe, and the influx of emigrants flowing 
 through it, to secure the rich and virgin Ireasui'es of 
 the western lands, is almost without example. At 
 this time the numbers were such, that it required 
 compulsory measures to clear the decks of the daily 
 steamers upon Lake Erie. The population of Buf- 
 faloe (I believe) at this time, is about 7000. 
 
 Besides the concourse of strangers common to the 
 season, the town was particularly crowded, during 
 my visit, from the interest excited by the incorpora- 
 tion of a new bank, of which the shares were to be 
 at this time apportioned, and being considered an 
 extremely good investment, a downright scramble 
 ensued for the stock. The capital had been fixed by 
 the State Legislature at 200,000 dollars, but in a few 
 minutes a million and a half were subscribed, and the 
 greatest disa])p(»intment expressed by those who had 
 failed to obtain shares, and many of whom had come 
 a great distance for that purpose. The dividend 
 was expected at once to reach 10 per cent. 
 
 Banking has been one of the efi'ective agents by 
 which America has advanced in her wonderful ca- 
 reer, and has there, as elsewhere, exhibited many of
 
 BANKING SYSTEM. 165 
 
 those distressing fluctuations which must ever at- 
 tend an unsubstantial degree of credit, and an un- 
 limited paper circulation. The free and independent 
 character of the government and people, joined to a 
 degree of jealousy which exists between the diffe- 
 rent States, fostered the undue growth of banking 
 establishments, while many were started for merely 
 local and selfish purposes, with little more than a fic- 
 titious or fraudulent foundation. 
 
 This evil has, however, been in a great measure 
 corrected at length in the State of New York. In 
 1829, an act was passed, of which the principle is to 
 secure the public against loss from the failure of in- 
 dividual banks, by requiring an annual deposit from 
 each of one-half of one per cent, on its capital stock 
 paid in. There are various checks and provisions 
 bearing upon the same point, the whole is placed 
 under a board of commissioners, and the loss which 
 may at anytime occur by the failure of a bank to 
 meet its engagements, is thus made good to credi- 
 tors from the Safety Fund. It is quite obvious how 
 essentially this must tend to preserve confidence and 
 credit, and how eff^ectually it must prevent fictitious 
 banking establishments from injuring the public. 
 Insolvent firms are regularly registered and announ- 
 ced in the almanack of the year. 
 
 From the state of the town, and the respectable 
 character of our hotel (the Eagle), it was crowded 
 to excess, and the bar-room presented that mixed 
 multitude, which, in such cases, are generally as- 
 sembled. By far the greater portion of our guests
 
 1G(J 
 
 AMERICAN HOTELS. 
 
 were liighly respectable in manners and appearance ; 
 while others, no doubt, exhibited a certain xcmdd- 
 he janty air of importance, ludicrous enough, but 
 forming- the exception, and not the rule. In Ame- 
 rican hotels of an inferior rank, or in the semibar- 
 barous regions of the west, a more heterogeneous as- 
 semblage may be looked for, but it is nothing else 
 than wilful malice to astonish John Bull, by present- 
 ing such as a fair sample of Brother Jonathans life 
 and conversation, and it is no great wonder that such 
 freedoms should give offence. How indignant would 
 we feel, at beholding a picture of English society 
 drawn from a skittle-ground, or the public room of 
 a paltry eating-house, a second rate tavern, or an 
 humble inn ! Or what should we say to the fidelity 
 and candour of that pencil, Avhich would seek to en- 
 lighten the citizens of New York upon the beau 
 motide of a London Theatre, by presenting them with 
 a dress circle, taken from the Cobourg or Saddler's 
 Wells ? Such impositions, however, have been 
 palmed upon us, and received in a manner far more 
 flattering than they deserved. At the same time, it 
 is foolish to be angry, as we know well the value of 
 a good laugh, which the many are ever ready to in- 
 dulge, without feeling over scrupulous as to the ex- 
 citing cause. 
 
 In those parts of America where travelling is yet 
 in its infancy, and accommodations are yet rude, you 
 may find half a dozen strangers disposed of in one 
 apartment for the night. Here prudence will sug- 
 gest the expediency of providing against mistakes
 
 AMERICAN HOTELS. 167 
 
 in regard to meum and tuurn, for unquestionably 
 such do occur. A young- friend of mine, not over 
 circumspect in those matters, was surprised upon 
 examining the toilet-table of his bed-room in Detroit, 
 to find himself minus a pocket-compass, and some 
 other tempting nick-nacks. A very personable, de- 
 cent-looking man, who proved to be an early riser, 
 had fancied them, and long before the loss was dis- 
 covered, had taken his departure beyond recall to the 
 
 west. But it is time to go to bed, and Dr D 
 
 and I, who were billeted together, having discussed 
 all the merits of the Huron track over sundry pota- 
 tions of most respectable whisky-toddy, at last turn- 
 ed in. It was not long ere my friend gave unequivocal 
 evidence of profound repose ; but the night was sul- 
 try, and my own slumbers were somewhat retarded 
 by the most vivid lightning I had ever witnessed. 
 The thunder rolled in heavy peals, though without 
 the slightest annoyance to the Doctor, and the rain 
 poured down in torrents, the whole being succeeded 
 by a fresh and delightful morning. Such summer- 
 storms are not unfrequent in Canada, and have a 
 perceptible and genial influence in modifying the 
 fervent heat of the season. 
 
 Friday, May 20. — I took my departure this mor- 
 ning from Buifaloe, by the track-boat on the Erie 
 Canal, for Rochester, a distance of 94 miles. Fare 
 Q\ dollars, or 15s. 9d., three capital meals included. 
 These boats are much in use by travellers ; they are 
 moderate in their charges, comfortable and well re- 
 gulated. The cabins are provided with books and
 
 168 TKACK-BOAT FOR ROCHESTER. 
 
 pamplilets, and the table al»uii(laMtly supplied with 
 good cheer. The ijj)per deck affords a pleasant pro- 
 menade, with fine views of the country, through 
 which we glide smoothly along, though rather fre- 
 quently interrupted hy imiiiuierahU; bridges upon 
 the canal, so near the deck, tiiat it is absolutely in- 
 dispensable to descend upon ai»proaching them. 
 The rules for the cabin, it may be said, prove their 
 own necessity ; but still they are well adaj)ted to 
 check freedoms of individuals, which might incom- 
 mode the general company. I had not been long on 
 board, when I Avas amused with the discomfiture of 
 a consequential-looking gentleman, who had stretch- 
 ed himself, in luxurious ease, at full length upon a 
 couch. So soon as he was observed, the st(!ward 
 was at him, very civilly giving a hint as to regula- 
 tions, — answered by a broad stare of astonishment 
 at his freedom. At him .again, — a second stare, in- 
 tended to be very terrific, and followed by a grumph ; 
 but, alas ! next came the captain himself, who whis- 
 pered a few words into the ear of our hero, which, I 
 doubt not, contained an alternative of stepping 
 ashore, for the great man was forced to succund), and 
 sally forth upon deck, there to digest the aifront as 
 he best might, and cool his offended dignity, or puff 
 away his displeasure in a cigar. 
 
 Soon after leaving Buftaloe, my eye was attracted 
 to a strange looking barge, which proved to be a 
 floating menagerie, and I gave Jonathan credit for 
 the idea. The great length of the canal, and the 
 rich improving country which it intersects, will
 
 FLOATING MENAGERIE. 169 
 
 make the speculation, I dare say, a good one, and 
 by judicious intervals in their visits, with a reason- 
 able change of stock, it may expect to retain the 
 charm of novelty. Another travelling establishment 
 lay near it, containing a grocer's store, which must 
 prove a considerable accommodation to families on 
 the line of the Canal, living distant from villages or 
 towns. 
 
 The Erie Canal is undoubtedly a magnificent 
 work, and reflects high credit on those who planned it, 
 and upon the Legislature of the State of New York, 
 who have carried it into efi^ect, within the short pe- 
 riod of five years, at an expense of 8,000,000 of dol- 
 lars. It is the property of the State. The outlay 
 has been most judicious, and will produce large re- 
 turns to the public exchequer, besides the incalcu- 
 lable collateral advantages which it must confer upon 
 the State. It has made a very prosperous opening 
 this spring. Upon the 23d of April, the collection of 
 dues amounted to 4483 dollars, or about L. 1200, 
 and the average since has been about L. 450 per day. 
 The canal is 40 feet wide at top, 28 at bottom, and 
 4 deep. The whole extent is 360 miles. Upon 
 leaving BufFaloe, the canal proceeds parallel to the 
 lake and river for some distance below Blackrock, 
 afl"ording fine views of Grand Island upon the left. A 
 remarkable deposit of vegetable remains was disco- 
 vered in cutting this section. The workmen came 
 upon a bed of half-decayed trees, about 6 feet in 
 depth, and extending for nearly half a mile. It con- 
 tained the branches and stems, preserving the grain
 
 170 DEPOSIT OF FOSSIL WOOD. 
 
 of the wood, but liad for tlie most part become a 
 black mass of matter, which burned freely upon 
 being dried. There can be no doubt that it was in 
 the state of transition to coal ; and the circumstance 
 confirms what we are told of a like process now 
 going on at the mouth of some of the great Ameri- 
 can rivers. It may be reasonably assumed in the 
 present case, that besides any trees growing on the 
 spot, the drift wood from Lake Erie had accumulat- 
 ed for ages, and formed the mass in question. The 
 canal after some distance leaves the river, and takes 
 an inland course. At times we moved along through 
 still and silent woods, and again emerged upon a 
 busy cultivated country, with numerous hamlets and 
 farms. The crops appeared to be healthy and luxu- 
 riant, but the soil to-day did not seem to be very 
 rich. The pastures were good, and I observed oc- 
 casionally, though only occasionally, cattle of a tole- 
 rable stamp, and certainly superior to those of Ca- 
 nada. 
 
 We had a very pleasant party at dinner. The 
 Americans delight in travelling ; and I received 
 much entertainment and information from a gentle- 
 man who, with his family, had been making a win- 
 ter and spring tour in the south and west. He had 
 ascended the Mississippi, and sailed down Lake Erie 
 to Buffaloe. lie missed the green pease at dinner, 
 to which he had been accustomed, he said, for many 
 weeks past. The demoralization of the Southern 
 Slave States, especially in the towns, when compared 
 with other portions of the Union, is appalling. New
 
 ANECDOTES OF NEW ORLEANS. 171 
 
 Orleans seemed to have impressed this honest gentle- 
 man as a perfect Pandemonium ; its moral and phy- 
 sical abominations, he declared, were alike intole- 
 rable. Gaming-houses form a regular source of pub- 
 lic revenue, as in Paris. They are limited to eleven, 
 and are farmed for L. 2000 or L. 3000 each per an- 
 num. The steam navigation upon the Mississippi 
 and Ohio is prodigious. Two hundred immense 
 vessels are in daily operation ; and as a sample of 
 the trade, I give an extract from the manifest of 
 The Uncle Sam, on her voyage from Louisville to 
 New Orleans, which this gentleman had noted in his 
 pocket-book, on the 26th of March last : — 307 bar- 
 rels of pork; 194^ barrels ditto; 9 hogsheads of 
 hams ; 2138 kegs of lard ; 3147 barrels of flour ; 30 
 barrels of gin ; 92 barrels beef ; 50 boxes merchan- 
 dize ; 32 barrels of porter ; 224 barrels of eggs ; 290 
 dozen chickens ; 40 turkeys ; 50 horses ; 32 cabin 
 passengers; 42 deck ditto ; 31 way ditto : and this 
 was mere every day work. Mobile, on the Gulf of 
 Mexico, is considered likely to become a place of 
 great commercial importance : it is in the State of 
 Alabama. 
 
 Lockport, 27 miles from Buflfaloe, has been rapid- 
 ly transformed from the wilderness into a thriving 
 village of perhaps 2000 inhabitants. The canal 
 near this has been cut through the solid calcareous 
 rock, for a distance of five miles, to a depth of from 
 5 to 30 feet, and still maintaining the general width 
 of 40. At the termination of this stupendous exca- 
 vation are placed five double combined locks, of
 
 17ii ANECDOTES OF NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 handsome and solid masonry. The descent, I believe, 
 is about 70 feet, and the scene is altogether pictu- 
 resque and interesting. After having been for above 
 an hour immured by the rock on either side, you 
 find yourself suddenly emerge, and approaching 
 steadily to an abyss of a somewhat threatening as- 
 pect. Presently, however, a halt takes place, and 
 the beautiful mechanism of the hydrostatic ladder 
 transports you in safety to the plains below. You 
 have in fact descended the Falls of Niagara, for it is 
 the same ridge M'hich intersects Canada, and you are 
 now upon the level of Ontario.
 
 ( 173 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Town of Rochester — Aqueduct across the Genesee — Waterfall 
 — Sam Patch — Stage-coach to Canandaigua — State of the 
 Country — Tovm of Canandaigua — Mode of Preserving Ice. 
 
 Saturday/, 21st. — We reached the far-famed Ro- 
 chester about eight this morning' ; and here I took 
 leave of the canal, intending to prosecute the re- 
 mainder of my journey to Albany by land. Roches- 
 ter is well known to all who take an interest in 
 America, as a remarkable instance of what may be 
 done in the way of transition, and as exhibiting in 
 its streets a perfect sample of the progress from 
 stumps to steeples. It is certainly an interesting 
 place, and presents a busy scene of manufacturing 
 and commercial enterprize. My time being limited, 
 I immediately procured a cicerone, and proceeded to 
 walk over the town, concluding Avith the banks of 
 the river, where there is a powerful fall upon the Ge- 
 nesee, about 90 feet in height, forming a most ro- 
 mantic scene, and which may be fairly denominated 
 the parent of Rochester, as the mill-power which it 
 supplies has brought the whole affair into existence. 
 There are also sulphur springs and baths in the town 
 of some repute.
 
 174 SAJI PATCH. 
 
 A splendid aqueduct carries tlie canal here across 
 the river by ten arches. It is also at present in 
 contemplation to unite the Genesee and Alleghany 
 rivers, by a canal of more than 100 miles in ex- 
 tent, and which would open up a valuable trade with 
 the upper part of the Ohio Valley. I have no doubt 
 that it will be carried into effect, or perhaps a rail- 
 road substituted. Close upon the verge of the pre- 
 cipice at the fall, is observed a small islet or green 
 knoll, from whence poor Sam Patcli took his final 
 plunge. Sam, it would seem, was no subscriber to 
 the tenets of the Temperance Society, for upon this 
 occasion his perceptions were far from being clear ; 
 and having neglected to spring in his usual adroit 
 style, the unlucky wight never again appeared. The 
 interest which this poor creature excited, both here 
 and at Niagara, was astonishing. His very exit 
 (than which nothing could be more natural) was 
 considered somewhat mysterious, as his body was 
 not found ; and some time subsequent to the event, 
 a fellow of a waggish disposition happening to be 
 accidentally in that part of the coimtry, and bearing, 
 it is said, a singular resemblance to Patch, was stop- 
 ped by a Rochesterman on the road, and questioned 
 on the subject. The stranger immediately saw a 
 fair opening for fun, and, after some hesitation, re- 
 luctantly confessed that he was actually Satn himself; 
 but that, for particular reasons, his being alive must 
 be kept a profound secret, until a day be named, 
 when he would make a public appearance in Roches- 
 ter, and that he trusted to the fidelity of the person
 
 STAGE-COACH TO CANANDAIGUA. 175 
 
 who had discovered him not to mention the circum- 
 stance, meantime, to any living being. As a matter 
 of course, it vras speedily confided, in like manner, 
 to the whole population ; and on the appointed day, 
 crowds assembled to laugh at the credulity of one 
 another. A poor tradesman of the town had taken 
 wilfully the same fatal leap, only on the day prece- 
 ding my visit. Many of the poor Indians are lost 
 over the fall, when rum has been in plenty. A squaw 
 was observed upon one occasion, with her canoe ab- 
 sorbed in the current, and she herself utterly insen- 
 sible to the danger. Warned at last by loud excla- 
 mations from the banks, she roused herself, only to 
 behold the frightful chasm before her, when, per- 
 ceiving all hope of escape to be vain, and every efi^ort 
 fruitless, she coolly finished off the contents of her 
 bottle, and plunged into the abyss. Rochester has 
 been subject to fluctuations in its progress for some 
 years back, and capitalists have been supposed to 
 retard it, by demanding extravagant prices and rents 
 for house-lots and buildings. This, however, must 
 soon cure itself, and already, I am told, the town is 
 rallying. 
 
 I travelled by stage to Canandaigua, with a very 
 intelligent pleasant party. The country was, for the 
 most part, rich and beautiful, and the eye was gra- 
 tified by a constant succession of fine farms and luxu- 
 riant orchards. The dwelling-houses of the proprie- 
 tors were frequently large and handsome, but neither 
 Canada nor the States can boast of much taste in 
 their rural architecture. The abundance of wood
 
 17C STATE OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 affords such a facility of varying- the outward form 
 and internal accommodations, that this is to be re* 
 gretted, especially as very superior models may be 
 found within their reach in Canandaig-ua, Geneva, 
 and other rural towns. 
 
 One feature distinguishes the Genesee country, 
 and adds infinitely to the beauty of the landscape. 
 The sinach-smootli, irholcsale si/stcm of cutting- every 
 tree around the mansion, which perpetually oftended 
 my eye in Canada, has been here greatly avoided, 
 and noble elms and other spreading forest-trees are 
 frequently seen, ornamenting and shading the field 
 around. Why should it be otherwise ? In Canada, 
 I was told that single trees would not survive the 
 shock of losing the shelter they derived from their 
 neighbours, and no donbt some caution would be 
 required, and might, I think, be easily and success- 
 fully a])plied ; at all events, the object is so desirable, 
 that a little extra trouble may \vell be called for. 
 
 I was delighted to-day, and for the first time, I 
 think, since I left England, to observe some symptoms 
 of a well-formed thriving breed of cattle. Many of 
 them were brindled, and resembled the largest class 
 of our own Argyllshire st(»ck. I fhiidv some good 
 cows might be selected in this district. The crops, 
 consisting of wheat, rye, pease, and clover, all looked 
 well. The farmers were engaged in planting the 
 corn or maize, which is put into small hillocks like 
 moleheaps by the hand, and assumes, when growing, 
 the appearance of a drilled cntp. I observed one 
 field already in braird. The rows are cleaned by
 
 STATE OF THE COUNTRY. 177 
 
 hoeing, and it is usual to grow in the intervals pump- 
 kins, which are profitably employed (like turnips) in 
 feeding live-stock, and form occasionally no contemp- 
 tible dish at the farmer's board, in the shape of a 
 pumpkin pie. The horses were excellent, and, from 
 the numerous advertisements in the bar-room of every 
 tavern, it was evident that breeding was an object of 
 attention in the district. I observed several mule- 
 colts and foals as we drove along. The roads were 
 very respectable, and evidently of a superior descrip- 
 tion to what I had encountered in Canada, though, 
 at the same time, I would not represent them as 
 exhibiting the expensive labour and skill which 
 smooths our ways in Britain. The soil, in general, 
 appeared to be a sandy loam, and sometimes nearly 
 sand alone, but I should think of a fertile quality, 
 and around Canandaigua it becomes a dark-coloured 
 vegetable mould of the best description. Land, in 
 this part of the State, is high in price. Farms under 
 cultivation sell at a rate varying from 20 to 45 dol- 
 lars, or from L.4, 10s. to L. 10 per acre, according 
 to value, situation, houses, fences, &c. When let 
 upon lease, a dollar per acre is about the common 
 rent, but the practice of hiring land is rare, and when 
 such a thing occurs, it is far more usual to let upon 
 shares, the landlord and tenant dividing the returns. 
 The raw material, and sometimes the cattle, are pro- 
 vided by the former, seed and labour by the latter; 
 and it generally happens, that the landlord soon 
 sickens of the bargain. A long time must yet elapse 
 ere a tenantry forms any conspicuous class in Ame- 
 
 M
 
 1'JS TOAVN OF CANANDAIGUA. 
 
 rica. In regard to emigrants proposing to settle in 
 the Genesee country, I would venture to say tliat no 
 respectable man (in regard to circumstances) could 
 establish himself here, with comfort and a fair pros- 
 pect of success, under a smaller capital than L. 2000, 
 supposing him to purchase and stock a farm of 150 
 or 200 acres. The produce of this part of the coun- 
 try is both abundant and of a superior character. If 
 there is any demand at New York, Genesee wheat 
 is sure to comnuind a market. 
 
 Canandaigua is a beautiful town. The upper por- 
 tion consists of a wide street of great length, running 
 along a ridge, and ornamented on each side by a suc- 
 cession of handsome dwellings, each having its shrub- 
 bery and parterres in front, with extensive gardens, 
 orchards, and paddocks or farms in the rear. Most 
 of these are built in the style of Italian villas, and 
 are extremely picturesque. Their owners are evi- 
 dently men of wealth as well as taste, and are either 
 possessed of landed estates in the neighbourhood, or 
 connected with banks, land agencies, &c. The fjo-ur- 
 geois, if I may venture upon such a term in this land 
 of independence, reside in the lower part of the town, 
 which extends down towards the lake. Canandaigua 
 possesses a large Classical Institution, and also a 
 public establishment for Female Education. There 
 are two banks, several churches, a court-house, d'c, 
 and though last, not least important to strangers, a 
 first-rate hotel belonging to Mr Blossom. From a 
 platform on the roof of this house, there is an exten- 
 sive and agreeable prospect of the lake and adjoining
 
 TOWN OP CANANUAIGUA. 179 
 
 country, and in regard to accommodations within, I 
 shall only observe, that I had the curiosity to pace 
 the dining-room, which I found to be ninety feet 
 long by forty in width. It being somewhat late in 
 the evening, I did not intend to have waited upon 
 
 my friend Mr D , who resides here, until the 
 
 following morning. He had heard of me, however, 
 accidentally, and vt^itli genuine hospitality came to 
 urge an immediate removal to his house. This I 
 declined, but agreed to spend with him the following 
 day. 
 
 Smiday 22c?. — Showery. We attended the Epis- 
 copalian Church, a handsome and commodious struc- 
 ture, and heard an excellent sermon continued 
 through the morning and evening service, which, 
 with some others, I may perhaps hereafter shortly 
 advert to. The church was well fitted up, and I 
 was struck by remarking a handsome tablet of mar- 
 ble, inscribed in simple language as " Sacred to the 
 Piety and Virtues of Bishop Heber." I felt this ex- 
 pression of veneration and esteem by those who had 
 no connexion with him, either national or personal, 
 as alike creditable to its object, and to those by 
 
 Avhom the compliment was paid. Mr M^ , a 
 
 Scotch gentleman, who has lately purchased a pro- 
 perty in this part of the country, with which he is 
 remarkably well pleased, and two very pleasant 
 neighbours, dined with us. In the evening we took 
 
 a stroll over the ground of Mr G , also a Scotch- 
 
 inan, and a man very highly esteemed and respected 
 in Canandaigua. He was himself absent, but his 
 
 m2
 
 180 MODE OF PRESERVING ICE. 
 
 friend Mr W conducted us to the garden, which 
 
 is the best I liave seen in America. It contains a 
 neat building' for a tea-room, with a fountain of the 
 purest water in a cellar beneath, from whence a cool 
 bottle is frequently summoned to add charms to a 
 fete champetre. When upon the subject of cool 
 bottles, I may mention that ice in America is con- 
 sidered a necessary ingredient of existence during 
 four months of the year. Rich and poor, town and 
 country, all revel in this simple and cheapest of 
 luxuries. The system of preserving it differs essen- 
 tially from ours, and is in fact opposed to all our old 
 country notions. A free ventilation is maintained 
 over the surface of the ice. My friend kept his ice 
 in a small building like a milkhouse in his back- 
 yard, with a current of air through it, the pit being 
 sunk in the centre. He had also a very clever box 
 of strong plank 2^ feet scpiare, with a swinging shelf, 
 raised and lowered by a small windlass, Avith a door 
 at top, the contents being thus at all times kept 
 within a frozen zone, and yet perfectly free from 
 
 damp. D supposes that the preservation of the 
 
 ice may be in some measure explained by the eva- 
 poration occasioned by the circulation of air during 
 the melting, and which must less or more take place 
 during the hot season, that at least this may possibly 
 check the process *. 
 
 • It is rather a curious fact, and I found many incredulous 
 to whom I mentioned it on my return. One person, however, 
 who is much interested in the preservation of ice, at once gave 
 me credence, and referred me to the intelligent agent of Lord 
 Dundas at Kerse for information, and from whom I have re-
 
 MODE OF PRESERVING ICE. 181 
 
 I found much difficulty in breaking away from the 
 hospitalities of Canandaigua, and was especially 
 
 tempted by D to accompany him on a wedding 
 
 trip to a very beautiful district, where I would not 
 only have seen how such affairs are conducted here, 
 
 ceived instructions so simple, that I shall venture to transcribe 
 the substance of his letter. He recommends to choose — 
 
 Isl, A quiet sheltered sjiot in a plantation, well shaded by 
 tall and umbrageous trees, in a way to be protected from sun 
 and wind. 
 
 2c?, The ice, when collected, is to be well broken, and formed 
 into a cone, 15 or 20 feet in diameter at the base, and gradually 
 tapering to its apex, the height being nearly the same as the 
 diameter at the bottom, and this size of a cone will require 
 from 100 to 150 carts of ice. In packing it, men are employed, 
 constantly smashing and breaking the ice with wooden mallete, 
 as it is impossible to pound it too small. 
 
 Zd, When thus formed, the mass should stand a few weeks 
 exposed, even although the weather may be fresh, by which it 
 will run together and consolidate into one great lump of solid 
 ice. 
 
 ith. It is now to be thatched, like a stack, with barley straw, 
 about twice the thickness laid upon a stack of oats. Barley 
 straw is found to be decidedly superior to any other, packing 
 more close, and excluding the air more completely than that 
 of wheat or of oats. 
 
 5//i, In mild winters when ice cannot be procured, snow may 
 be substituted and treated in the same way, only requiring 
 more beating and tramping together, and it is useful to dash 
 water over it occasionally during the work, as it thus becomes 
 like solid ice. It also succeeds well to mix snow and ice to- 
 gether. Ice may be preserved in this way for three years. Salt 
 has never proved useful, nor any difference been observed from 
 its addition. The ice from the cone is found more powerful 
 than what is taken from the ice-hovise, one-half i\ie quantity of 
 cone ice producing the same congealing effects as double the 
 quantity from the house. Except for the convenience of pre- 
 serving meat, &c. in hot weather, ice-houses might be entirely 
 dispensed with.
 
 182 TOWN OF CANANDAIGUA. 
 
 but might have inspected the Wadswortli farm, pro- 
 bably the best managed in tlie States. My time, 
 however, was running fast away, and I was forced to 
 deny myself this and many other pleasant excursions. 
 A gentleman had travelled with me from Rochester 
 to Canandaigua, who proved to be the cashier or 
 agent of an Albany bank, in the habit of making re- 
 gular journeys with specie to country branches. I 
 discovered this by noticing a box belonging to him 
 knocking about in the lobby of the hotel, and observ- 
 ing every fellow that passed honouring it with a sig- 
 nificant rattle, which perfectly announced its contents. 
 Upon expressing some surprise to the owner at this 
 apparent indifference, he assured me that it never 
 occasioned him a moment's uneasiness, that such was 
 his usual practice, and that he had no apprehension 
 of any danger ; a degree of faith, which I presume 
 few Lombard Street travellers would feel warranted 
 in manifesting upon the roads of England.
 
 ( 183 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Town of Geneva — Value of Land — Small Town of Auburn — 
 Its State Prison — Journey to Utica — Tha Town — Road 
 to Schenectady — Sir William Johnston — Travelling from 
 Schenectady to Albany — Return by Steamer to New York — 
 Altered Face of the Country. 
 
 I LEFT Canandaigua at an early hour upon Mon- 
 day. The morning was rather cool, but we had a 
 pleasant drive of three hours to Geneva, sixteen 
 miles. Crops of all kinds looked well, and the cat- 
 tle were of a good stamp. The soil generally seemed 
 to be light. The face of the country is undulating, 
 and presents several of those terraces which may be 
 remarked in various parts of the world, and which 
 are ascribed by geologists to powerful currents which 
 have at some period swept along the face of our 
 globe. Geneva is a thriving and a pleasant town, 
 upon a rising bank overhanging the Seneca lake. 
 It wore an air of especial beauty this morning. The 
 sun shone with uncommon splendour upon the land- 
 scape, and the lake was calm and pellucid as a mir- 
 ror. The foliage and verdure exhibited all the 
 freshness of spring, and the villas and houses had 
 just assumed their annual garb of painting, white- 
 washing, and cleaning. Merchants and farmers 
 seemed involved in business, and the scene alto-
 
 184 TOWN OF GENEVA VALUE OF LAND. 
 
 gether was cheerful and pleasing. I received the 
 
 most polite attention from Mr F , who is a land 
 
 agent liere, acres being still one of the great staples 
 of the country. 
 
 Land in cultivated farms fetches from twenty to 
 forty dollars per acre. The return of wheat is ge- 
 nerally from 25 to 50 bushels per acre. Some por- 
 tions of Genesee are uncommonly fertile. I observe 
 in the prize list of an Agricultural Society in 1819, 
 that wheat yielded 80 bushels or 10 quarters per 
 acre, barley 34 bushels, pease 32 bushels, and In- 
 dian corn 132 bushels per acre. These crops were 
 raised in Ontario county, and twelve, fifteen, and 
 eighteen successive and productive crops of wheat 
 are frequently noticed as having been raised without 
 
 perceptible difference or detriment. Mr J , 
 
 from Scotland, made a purchase some years ago up- 
 on the banks of the lake ; lie deals largely, I under- 
 stand, in cattle, and is doing well. He has begun to 
 
 use lime with great benefit. Mr S , an Englishman, 
 
 has introduced white-thorn hedges with entire suc- 
 cess, and there can be little doubt that they will thrive. 
 I saw some in a most healthy condition both here 
 and at Canandaigua. It is particularly requisite to 
 guard against drought, and for which reason it is 
 preferable to plant in a trench than upon a bank. 
 The Englishman's farm was for sale. A friend of 
 mine who looked at it some time subsequent to my 
 visit, describes it as containing 250 acres of good 
 loam and some indifferent clay, well watered, but 
 without any mill-power. The wheat and Indian
 
 SMALL TOWN OF AUBURN. 185 
 
 com were excellent. The hedges thriving' and in 
 good order, Avitli a double rail fence. The mansion- 
 house and offices were very respectable. The price 
 asked was 25 dollars per acre, or £ 1406, 5s. in whole 
 for the farm. I should consider Geneva a healthy and 
 desirable place of residence, possessing good society, 
 and where many delightful houses, with gardens 
 looking down upon the lake, may be had for a rent 
 of £30 or £40 per annum. I visited the empty 
 
 mansion of my friend W , then upon his voyage 
 
 from Britain, and found Commodore in great health 
 and condition, a horse imported by him some years 
 ago to improve the stock, and, to judge from a three 
 year old chestnut colt, then in breaking tackle, the 
 experiment would appear to have succeeded well. 
 
 I left Geneva in the stage for Auburn at 2 o'clock. 
 We made rather a tedious halt at a house in the out- 
 skirts of the town, when, to deprecate our impa- 
 tience, the stage-owner whispered that there was a 
 marriage in progress, and by-and-by the blushing 
 bride, her spouse, with a male and female friend, en- 
 tered our vehicle, and off we drove. Some sweeps 
 of the road presented charming views of the town, 
 the villas, and the lake, as we passed round its east- 
 em extremity, and, without any particular occur- 
 rence we reached Auburn about eight. Aubura.is 
 a neat small town in the vicinity, but not within 
 view of Owasco Lake. The state-prison is an ob- 
 ject of interest here, and has been often minutely 
 described. The prison hours did not suit my time, 
 and I was thereby prevented from any further in-
 
 1{;6 AUBLKN SIATK-PUISON. 
 
 spection than a walk by moonlight beneath its walls. 
 The system adopted, as is well known, studies the 
 correction of bad habits rather than vindictive pun- 
 ishment, and |)rovides steady employment for the 
 prisoners, accompanied by the strictest enforcement 
 of silence and submission. How far such a mode 
 may succeed, except in a new and thinly peopled 
 country, is, I think, somewhat doubtful, for, as po- 
 pulation thickens, wealth and privation, crime and 
 corruption, will increase, in a ratio j)robably be- 
 yond the control of this comfortable discipline. The 
 felons are, in fact, too well off; by which I would be 
 understood to mean, that numbers of our ordinary 
 paupers and unemployed artizans in Britain would 
 very thankfully welcome such quarters as the jail of 
 Auburn presents. 
 
 Mechanics of all descriptions have work and cus- 
 tomers secured to them, are well fed and clothed, 
 and obtain, I think, also a portion of their earnings 
 in cash. In a dense population such a system would 
 probably depress the honest tradesman, and, in fact, 
 hold out a sort of homis to vice. Earnest attention 
 to a sound religious and moral education, can alone 
 check the growth of crime ; and the promotion of 
 this great object will alone prevent the walls of Au- 
 burn from becoming, as it were, a house of refuge, 
 rather than an object of terror and of dread. 
 
 We left Auburn at an early hour upon the follow- 
 ing morning for Utica, a distance of 74 miles. The 
 day was fine, and our party remarkably cheerful. 
 The country was rich and beautiful, and the crops
 
 JOURNEY TO UTICA. \V>7 
 
 luxuriant. Mr S from Michigan gave me much 
 
 information regarding the rapid settlement of that 
 country. He was himself deeply immersed in the 
 stirring scene of enterprise which it presents. Pos- 
 sessed of land, he had also built a large tav^ern, and 
 opened a store in Ypsilanti, a town as yet scarcely 
 recognised upon a map. He had started stages up- 
 on the National Road through the Western Terri- 
 tory, and was now on his way to New York, to or- 
 der additional coaches, and to lay in merchandise of 
 every sort. Some months after this, a friend of 
 mine, travelling in Michigan, happened to be in his 
 house, when a stranger, blessed with more dollars 
 
 than discretion, urged S to part with his tavern. 
 
 Desiring to put a stop to this, a price was named 
 which the owner considered sufficient to close all 
 farther palaver, but, to his sm-prise, the proposal was 
 at once accepted, and the bargain concluded. He 
 had now only to make over his premises, and solace 
 himself with his dollars; but (mark !) Jonathan ha- 
 ving been trammelled by no conditions, quickly got 
 up a new house, transferring his residence and his 
 run of business to the opposite side of the way, and 
 leaving poor Johnny Newcome to shift for himself, 
 and make the most of his purchase. 
 
 We found our roads to-day, for the most part, 
 very indifferent, and were kept in constant motion, 
 jolting and bumping about in high style, all taking 
 it in good humour, and enjoying our laugh in turn, 
 as each came in contact with his neighbour's head. 
 The coachmen drove at a capital pace, in defiance of
 
 188 TOWN OP UTICA. 
 
 all obstacles. At a wild romantic dell, called Onon- 
 dagua Hollow, where a deep and steep bank hems 
 in the road upon hand, and the deep ravine upon 
 the other, we took leave to dismount, as it happened 
 only upon the day preceding-, that when rattling 
 down at a swinging trot, the chain of the pole gave 
 way, and there was nothing for it but to start the 
 team at a gallop. It was neck or nothing, but pro- 
 videntially no accident occurred; and, in fact, it 
 showed uncommon nerve and readiness of mind in 
 the coachman, as he knew well that if he had at- 
 tempted to pull up, the weight of the coach would 
 have sent them all over the precipice to cei'tain de- 
 struction. We passed Cayuga Lake, which seems 
 to be shallow, upon the famous Wooden Bridge, a 
 mile in length. 
 
 It was rather late in the evening when we reached 
 Utica, where we got very comfortably lodged in the 
 large hotel at the Canal Bridge. This town is one of 
 the most important of the district. The Erie Canal, 
 the Mohawk River, and the Great Road meet here, 
 with others diverging in all directions. Many of the 
 buildings .are of brick, the streets wide, and the 
 stox'es amply replenished. AVe here held a council 
 upon our future progress, and having debated the 
 roughness of the roads on one side, and the tedium 
 of the track-boat on the other, finally resolved upon 
 encountering the former, encouraged by the assu- 
 rances of the stage-owner, that by starting at eight 
 o'clock we should be safely housed in Albany by 
 ten. The promise, I confess, appeared to me some- 
 what problematical in regard to its accomplishment,
 
 ROAD TO SHENECTADY. ]89 
 
 as I knew the distance to be 100 miles; but my own 
 wishes being in favour of the road journey, I sup- 
 pressed all misgivings on the subject. At eight 
 o'clock, then, we started for Albany, along the banks 
 of the Mohawk, a beautiful and romantic stream, 
 which, it will be remembered, falls into the Hudson 
 at Waterford. The valley is rich, well cultivated, 
 and bounded by finely wooded hills of considerable 
 elevation on either side. We travelled in it for 
 about 80 miles, to Schenectady. 
 
 When about half through our first stage, we met 
 a farmer on horseback, who informed us that a mud 
 slip, like an avalanche, had occurred some miles in 
 advance, at a point where a steep bank had been cut 
 for the road immediately overhanging the canal, and 
 that we should not, in his opinion, be able to pass. 
 This was food for discussion. For my own part, I 
 had acquired such unlimited confidence in the Ame- 
 rican coachee and his cattle, that I awaited the event 
 with little uneasiness. At last the scene presented 
 itself, and I must say in a somewhat appalling form. 
 The road, which was of necessity extremely narrow, 
 had been completely swamped, and a river of mud 
 with uprooted trees covered its line, in wild confu- 
 sion. On our left was a sharp steep bank ten or 
 twelve feet above the canal, and on our right the 
 precipitous face of the hill, whence this mass had 
 been detached. To dismount was almost impossible, 
 as not a spot could be found on which to walk short of 
 going knee-deep. We had therefore little choice, but 
 to sit it out. Labourers had strewed branches and
 
 100 SIR WILLIAM JOHNSTON. 
 
 tops of trees npon the mud, wliich formed a sort of 
 floating bridge, but the plunges of our steeds and 
 bulky vehicle in getting through, which they did 
 with much difficulty and hazard, gave me more un- 
 easiness than any thing I had hitherto met with. 
 At last we got clear, and continued our course. 
 
 The German flats, upon this route, form a tract of 
 uncommonly rich and valuable alluvial soil. The 
 road at times traversed a more elevated part of the 
 country, extremely romantic, the river being for the 
 most part in view, and woods of noble trees covered 
 with the vine in wild luxuriance. Limestone seemed 
 to be abundant. Frequently the rocks and hills 
 greatly resembled our wildest Highland scenery, and 
 Little Falls, a sweet village, in many of its features 
 powerfully reminded me of Dunkeld. 
 
 We passed this forenoon the delightful residence, 
 in olden times, of Sir A¥illiam Johnston, so well 
 known in American Clu'onicles, for his influence 
 over the native tribes. He acted as agent for the 
 British Government, and lived always in the midst 
 of the Jndians. An anecdote highly characteristic, 
 though not quite new, was talked over as we passed ; 
 I believe it actually occurred. Upon one occasion 
 an old chief happening to fancy a scarlet uniform of 
 Sir Williams, solicited an audience, and with great 
 solemnity recounted a dream, in which the transfer 
 of the coat formed a conspicuous figure. Sir Wil- 
 liam, perfectly aware of their superstitious reverence 
 for such revelations, quietly submitted, and resigned 
 his garment to the delighted chief. In due time,
 
 , SCHENECTADY TO ALBANY. 191 
 
 however, the Baronet was favoured with his dream 
 also : and having convoked a council, he communi- 
 cated with much seeming gravity, that he had last 
 night been assured of a certain tract of land h«ving 
 been given to him by his good friends the Mohawks. 
 There was no alternative, and Sir William actually 
 received a valuable domain ; but the old chief most 
 solemnly protested, that he would never again dream 
 with Sir William. 
 
 I was amused to-day with the respectable appear- 
 ance of the scare-crows. One of them figured 
 in a clean white shirt, which no man need have 
 been ashamed to acknowledge : FalstaflF's men 
 would have hailed it as a glorious prize, compared 
 with the fruit of English hedges. 
 
 From Schenectady to Albany, about twenty miles, 
 the country is sandy and poor. We travelled at the 
 rate of seven miles an hour, but what with our ava- 
 lanche adventure, and some other detentions, it Avas 
 long after midnight ere we reached the city. We 
 had so far exceeded ordinary hours, that the Hotel 
 was hushed in repose, and although we might cer- 
 tainly have raised the house, it was rather doubtful 
 whether we should thereby have improved our con- 
 dition. We found the porter dosing in the hall, 
 and having committed our luggage to his charge, we 
 agreed upon diving into a certain cellar, which we 
 had observed to be still lighted up as we drove in. 
 Here we found a good sample of low life in Albany. 
 It was about three in the morning, and some of the 
 party had evidently been indulging freely during the
 
 192 RETURN TO NKW YORK. 
 
 previous liours. Still there was no brutal drunken- 
 ness nor insolence of any kind, altliouf^h we were 
 certainly accosted with sufficient freedom. After 
 partaking- of some capital strong ale and biscuits, we 
 returned to our baggage apartment, and wrapping 
 ourselves in greatcoats and cloaks, we enjoyed a to- 
 lerably comfortable nap, until daylight again put us 
 in nuttion. 
 
 I should have mentioned the amount of the coach 
 fare from Geneva to Albany, which was only 7 dol- 
 lars, or f 1 : 11 : 6, for a distance of 170 miles, with- 
 out a farthing extra of any kind, as connected with 
 the coach. 
 
 After a saunter through the quiet streets, and vi- 
 siting a cleanly civil fellow of a barber, who was in 
 readiness for customers, even at this early hour, I 
 embarked in the Albany for New York. This ves- 
 sel, although not quite so large as the " North Ame- 
 rica," is a steamer of the first class, noted for ele- 
 gance, comfort, and speed. We had about sixty 
 passengers in the cabin, increasing and diminishing 
 at various points. The morning was balmy and de- 
 lightful, and the scenery all that the most fastidious 
 admirer of nature could desire. Winter had hardly 
 disappeared M'hen I sailed up the Hudson ; the wind 
 was then piercing, the country bleak, and the woods 
 devoid of foliage. How great was the contrast now ! 
 The sun shone forth in sill his glory, the farms and 
 orchards gave the richest promise of abundance, and 
 the noble mountains of Catskill, lofty as our Gram- 
 pians, and covered with oak and other woods, reared
 
 ALTERED FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 193 
 
 their tops above the masses of fleecy and feathery 
 clouds which rolled along- their sides. It was indeed 
 a lovely scene, and I never wearied in contemplating 
 its beauties. The verdure was so fresh, the islands, 
 headlands, and bends of the river, so varying- and 
 new, that I shoidd have left America totally unaware 
 of the charms of the Hudson, had I not enjoyed this 
 second trip upon its waters. The numerous schoon- 
 ers and steam-vessels, too, gave constant animation 
 to the scene. One powerful steamer with a lighter 
 on every side, like some huge monster of the deep 
 and her two cubs, passed us full of a colony of Swiss 
 and German emigrants, with their goods and chattels 
 in the boats, chaunting in great glee their wild and 
 native airs. It is the practice of those people to move 
 in little communities, and they generally bring out 
 along with them their village pastor or priest, so 
 that the change of clime scarce ever occasions to 
 them one painful recollection. 
 
 We stopped a few minutes at Poughkeepsie, 
 where there are regular races, then just concluded, 
 and where we took on board three coursers with 
 their grooms. I believe they were not of the lirst 
 class, but assuredly our Newmarket men would have 
 turned up their noses at the stud, without excepting 
 their tawney-faced attendants. The Highlands, the 
 Sugarloaf, and Anthony's Nose, severally called forth 
 our admiration, as we passed them in succession, and 
 as the tints of evening approached new beauties 
 were disclosed. 
 
 I observed upon the banks of the river a large and 
 
 N
 
 194 UKTUUN TO NEAV YORK. 
 
 simple reel, by which the fishermen dried their nets 
 in a manner far more expeditious and handy tlian by 
 spreading them, as we do, upon tiie beach. I may 
 also just notice a windmill as new to me in its con- 
 struction, the sails or arms being made to act in a 
 horizontal direction. I am told that such are pre- 
 ferred in the Slates, but I neglected to ascertain for 
 what particular advantage. The approach to New 
 York in descending the Hudson is fine, but I think 
 decidedly inferior to the entrance from sea. First 
 impressions, however, especially after a long voyage, 
 must be allowed for, and Manhattan is an interesting 
 island, view it from what point yon will. About seven 
 we reached the VVliarf, and I found myself again 
 established in my quarters at Bunker's, where tea 
 ^^ dla mode " and a warm bath, prepared me for a 
 comfortable bed, rendered more than usually accept- 
 able after my journey of the last two days. 
 
 I spent the following forenoon in paying visits, 
 and secured my passage in the George Canning, 
 which was the packet to sail on the 8th June. Pass- 
 ing along Broadway I had a fortunate " rencontre" 
 
 with my friend W , just arrived from Scotland, 
 
 and Avho was not a little surprised when I tapped 
 him on the shoulder, delivering himself and luggage 
 at the City Hotel. He had been lucky in his voyage, 
 and brought me pleasant and recent letters from 
 home.
 
 ( 195 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Steam-boat and Coach Journey to Philadelphia — Intelligent 
 American Grazier — Bordentown — Joseph Buonaparte — 
 Banks of the Delaware — City of Philadelphia — Oppressive 
 Heat — Visit to Laurelhill — Sail down the Delaware, and 
 through Chesapeake Bay to Baltimore. 
 
 Having resolved upon a trip to Washington, 
 
 W agreed to accompany me, and we started 
 
 on the following morning at six in a splendid 
 steamer, crowded with Quakers on their return 
 from some great meeting of the Friends in New 
 York. The morning was fine, and the sail down 
 the bay and through the strait which divides Jersey 
 from Staaten Island was quite delightful. Farms 
 and villas on shore, ships, steamers, sloops, and 
 boats without number, on the placid water around 
 us. There are two steam-boat lines to Philadelphia, 
 one by Trenton, and another by Bordentown. We 
 went by the latter, and returned by the former. The 
 fare was four dollars, or 18 s., including breakfast 
 and dinner, with nearly thirty miles of land-travel- 
 ling across New Jersey, from Amboy to Borden- 
 town. It may be supposed that a rare scramble 
 takes place in the transfer of a steam-boat cargo to 
 the coaches in waiting. Matters, however, are re- 
 
 n2
 
 190 INTELLIGENT AJIERICAN GRAZIEH. 
 
 markably well ordered. Each passenger receives tL 
 ticket bearing reference to tlie coacli in which he 
 and his luggage are deposited, the whole being trans- 
 acted without trouble to him, or tax upon liis purse. 
 A party wishing to be together can easily have it 
 arranged by speaking in time to the person who dis- 
 tributes the tickets. W and I, of course, kept 
 
 together, and we had in our coach two men, respect- 
 able in appearance, who, for the first time that I had 
 met with in America, interlarded their conversation 
 with abominable expletives and oaths. I soon dis- 
 covered that they were graziers, or in some way 
 concerned with live-stock, and, taking a fit time, I 
 opened a chat with the one whose appearance pro- 
 mised the greatest intelligence. Nor was I mis- 
 taken. He proved to be very largely concerned in 
 cattle-dealing for the New York and Philadelphia 
 markets, bringing droves across the Alleghany 
 Mountains often from a distance of 600 miles, and 
 under a perfect system of arrangement. 
 
 I received much useful information from this per- 
 son, and was not a little astonished when he ad- 
 dressed me, to find him talking, as it were, an entire- 
 ly different language from that which he used to his 
 friend. Not an oath or an improper term escaped 
 fi-om his lips ; and I was taught not to judge too 
 harshly or rashly ; for, however lamentable it was to 
 find him giving way to such a practice at all, it was 
 evidently not his usual custom, but an unwortliy ac- 
 quiescence in [the detestable slang too often to be 
 met with in Ohio or Kentucky.
 
 BORDENTOWN. 197 
 
 The soil of New Jersey appears sandy and light. 
 The crops, notwithstanding, looked vigorous and 
 healthy, and the Indian corn was putting up its 
 broad blades in great promise. This State is cele- 
 brated for its peach-orchards, which are often of 
 great extent. But nothing in the vegetable world 
 here surprised and delighted us so much as the 
 weeping willows. I had seen no tree in the New 
 World which, in my opinion, could rival them for 
 beauty, and, at variance with the nature of the wil- 
 low-tribe, they seemed to grow here in perfect sand. 
 And how they do grow ! Stems of immense diame- 
 ter, with tops spreading abroad, and drooping to the 
 earth, in a manner graceful and picturesque beyond 
 description. 
 
 We reached Bordentown upon the banks of the 
 Delaware about three. This is a small town, twenty- 
 four miles above Philadelphia, and has been chosen 
 by Joseph Buonaparte as his retreat from the poli- 
 tics of Europe, and the shipwreck of his dynasty. 
 The place is extensive, and the park is enclosed by 
 a rail-fence. The house has been lately rebuilt af- 
 ter an accidental fire, and appears to be spacious and 
 magnificent. He has not chosen the most fertile 
 portion of the land on which to settle, but this af- 
 fords him the greater scope for exertion and im- 
 provement, and much really appears to have been 
 done. The villa commands a most enchanting view 
 of the river. 
 
 Our sail down the peaceful Delaware, with the 
 succession of fine farms and rural retreats upon its
 
 198 CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 banks, afforded us the greatest enjoyment. On the 
 Pennsylvanian sliore, the country was especially rich 
 and luxuriant, the fields often large, and the farms 
 or estates extensive. The mansions also were in 
 many instances on a splendid scale, evincing both 
 wealth and taste in their owners. 
 
 We reached Philadelphia abotit six in the even- 
 ing, and fixed ourselves at the United-States-Hotel 
 in Chesnut Street. Philadelphia contains 130,000 
 inhabitants, and is a beautiful and regular town. To 
 the eye of a picturesque traveller, its extreme regu- 
 larity may perhaps appear somewhat offensive. 
 
 The United-States-Bank, opposite to the hotel in 
 which we lodged, is a magnificent building of white 
 marble, after the model of the Parthenon. Many of 
 the churches, private banks, mint, <S:c. are extremely 
 handsome. The streets are well paved, and the pri- 
 vate mansions, for the most part, imiform, commo- 
 dious, and neat. I shall not, however, go into any 
 detailed account of what has been so often described. 
 The market-street is certainly curious, and extensive, 
 being a long arcade filled with all the necessaries of 
 life ; but I must say it fell short of my expectations. 
 The Park, or Public Mall, is a very agreeable pro- 
 menade, in the centre of the city. Philadelphia is 
 built on the bank of the Delaware, here a mile in 
 width, and navigable for the largest vessels. The 
 distance to the sea is ninety miles. The Schuylkill 
 bounds the city on the west, and supplies the inha- 
 bitants with water in the greatest abundance. 
 
 The day had been warm, but extremely pleasant,
 
 OPPRESSIVE HEAT. 199 
 
 and we retired to our bed-rooms, little aware of the 
 stew which awaited us. The sleeping- apartments in 
 America are provided with fan-lights above the door, 
 which are left open at pleasure, and maintain a cur- 
 rent of air throughout the house, without increasing 
 the risk which frequently arises from the draught 
 consequent to open bedroom-windows. The night 
 became excessively hot, and in vain did we court 
 Morpheus. I began to think some feverish attack 
 was coming upon me. I opened my window for re- 
 lief, but the air met me hot as from a furnace. It 
 was any thing but a night of refreshment. At last 
 came day-light, and, on descending to the bar-room, 
 we found that the thermometer had made a start of 
 about 20 degrees, and now stood at 90° in the shade, 
 quite sufficient to account for all our distress. 
 
 We had arranged to visit Laurelhill, a rural 
 tavern, some miles from town, on the banks of the 
 Schuylkill, and to r*eturn in time for afternoon ser- 
 vice. At six o'clock, accordingly, we drove off in a 
 very smart shandrydan, with an excellent nag, and, 
 in spite of the heat, had a very pleasant ride to the 
 place of our destination. AYe passed many villas 
 and farms in high order, and greatly admired the lo- 
 cust-trees in the hedges, with their luxuriant pen- 
 dent clusters of snow-white blossom. Laurelhill 
 well deserves the encomiums bestowed upon it by 
 an English friend in Ncav York, who enjoined me 
 upon no account to omit an opportunity of visiting 
 it. The taverns, gardens, saloons, &c. are upon a 
 large and handsome scale, well fitted up, and no-
 
 200 VISIT TO LAURELHILL. 
 
 thing wanting wliitli art can supply; bnt it must 
 found its liigliost claim on the natural beauties it en- 
 joys. 
 
 From the house you enter a range of delightful 
 pleasure-grounds, ornamented by siirubbery, and full 
 of magnificent oaks, whose branches are enlivened 
 by tame turtle-doves in great numbers, the river 
 running smoothly below, with rocky and romantic 
 banks. It was quite a fairy scene, and seems with 
 justice to be a favourite resort of the Philadelpliians. 
 Neither is the interior of the mansion without its 
 charms. We were quickly served with a breakfast, 
 which it would require a diagram to explain, for no 
 less than thrce-aiid-tweniij dishes were placed before 
 us, and were yet laid out with perfect elegance upon 
 a tabl($ three feet square. Fish of various kinds, 
 chickens, ham, sausages, maize-pancakes, &c. &c. 
 figured on our board in neat small portions for two. 
 It was quite a picture to look upon, and not with- 
 out more solid claims to our regard, for each was 
 excellent in its way. The landlord is a man fond of 
 horses, and we were shewn a bay gelding seven 
 years old belonging to him, said to be the fastest 
 trotter in this State, which is greatly celebrated for 
 trotting matches, /<or5e-ram?^ being prohibited by an 
 ancient law of Pennsylvania. This horse was a fine 
 figure, about fifteen hands and a half in height, and 
 shewing good breeding, with well shaped hocks, and 
 powerful muscular thighs. I shall not venture to 
 repeat what we were told of his performances. — On 
 our return we stopped for a short time at Fair-
 
 VISIT TO LAUKELHILL. 201 
 
 mount, where the great works for raising water had 
 been erected. These consist of five liuge wheels 
 propelled by the Schuylkill, which raise its water 
 above an hundred feet into capacious reservoirs on 
 the summit of the rock, and from whence it is dis- 
 persed by many miles of pipes througliout the city. 
 The buildings have been planned and executed with 
 taste, and the scenery around is extremely beautiful. 
 
 We attended St Andrew's church in the after- 
 noon, and had a most excellent sermon from Dr 
 Milner. By this hour the heat became most op- 
 pressive, and we suffered much, especially from our 
 wardrobe not being calculated for such a meridian. 
 Fans were universal in church, and in the hands of 
 both sexes ; they seemed to be large flappers made 
 of palm leaves. The butterfly garb of the Negroes 
 in Philadelphia has long been a fruitful source of ri- 
 dicule in the States ; and we witnessed it this even- 
 ing in great perfection. Philadelphia is the very pa- 
 radise of Negroes, and it would seem, poor crea- 
 tures, as if they revelled in especial glee from liv- 
 ing on the verge of bondage. In our hotel, I must 
 say that some authority would have been exercised 
 with advantage, for their tongues never ceased. I 
 was annoyed by their perpetual jabber, though I 
 ought to have remembered, that whereas the ther- 
 mometer at 90'' somewhat discomposed my nerves, 
 it only raised those of the man of colour to his true 
 point of enjoyment. 
 
 Monday QQth. — A beautiful morning, with a glow- 
 ing sun; thermometer at 84°. The night was trO'*
 
 202 VOYAGE TO BALTIIMORE. 
 
 meiidously hot. W — , unable to rest, paid me a 
 visit about two, and found nie stripped of the bed- 
 clothes, and gasping like a turtle. The heat is rare- 
 ly greater, and the change being sudden materially 
 increased its effects. 
 
 The William Penn, in which we sailed for Balti- 
 more at six o'clock, is superb, and fitted up with 
 equal elegance and comfort. The main cabin is 150 
 feet in length. The fare to Baltimore, 120 miles, 
 was 4 dollars, or 18s. Breakfast and dinner, both 
 most abundant and excellent, were charged one-half 
 dollar, or 2s. 3d. each. We proceeded down the 
 Delaware at the rate of fourteen miles an hour, pass- 
 ing various villages, and pleased with the rich mea- 
 dows and well timbered country on the banks. The 
 scenery, however, was somewhat monotonous and 
 tame. We were ti'an sported from the Delaware to 
 Chesapeake Bay, by the canal lately constructed to 
 unite the navigation. The distance is fourteen miles, 
 and was performed in good style, and in a comfor- 
 table track-boat, in a couple of hours. Four miles 
 of the canal have been excavated with much labour, 
 and this portion is called the Deep Cut. At the 
 highest point, a via-duct, called Summit Bridge, has 
 been thrown across, 90 feet above the canal, and 280 
 feet in length. Vessels of 200 tons burden pass on 
 the canal. Our party was very pleasant to-day. 
 Mr T , a Virginian gentleman, I found particu- 
 larly intelligent and communicative. In politics he 
 is a great admirer of Mr Clay, and considers him in 
 many points a prototype of Canning. Mr T
 
 VOYAGE TO BALTIMORE. 203 
 
 had been at Philadelphia to attend the college exa- 
 mination, and to take home his son, a fine looking 
 lad, for the vacation. The college at Philadelphia 
 is remarked for laying a solid foundation in its sys- 
 tem of instruction, especially in mathematics. The 
 examination precludes all attempts at a getting vp. 
 In Euclid, for instance, the number of books gone 
 through is specified, and tickets for each proposition 
 are put into a box. A student is called up by the 
 examiners ; he draws a ticket, and whatever may be 
 the number it refers to, he proceeds forthwith to 
 demonstrate. Such was the account which I receiv- 
 ed from Mr T . 
 
 I made rather an awkward discovery this forenoon, 
 for, in looking over my pocket-book, and literally 
 ocmparing notes with W , we came to the un- 
 pleasant conclusion that our funds would scarce hold 
 out. I mention the circumstance chiefly as a warn- 
 ing to others, the dollar-notes having now for a se- 
 cond time played me this trick. So long as I was 
 master of a sizeable bunch, I thought all was right, 
 my mind running upon each being at least 20s. in 
 value. I wrote immediately to New York, for a 
 supply to meet me at Philadelphia ; but, as the time 
 was limited, and I had to trust my letter to the 
 master of the canal packet-boat, of whom I knew 
 nothing, my hopes from that source were slender. 
 I had letters with me to Baltimore and Washington, 
 but, as they boi-e no reference to pecuniary matters, 
 I could found but little upon them ; and I determined 
 at once to mention my dilemma to a good namesake
 
 204 BALTIMORE. 
 
 of my own, wliose acquaintance I had accidentally 
 made in Liverpool, and who is a citizen of Balti-. 
 more. I found him domiciled in Barnum's Great 
 Hotel, one of the best in the States, and was at once 
 put at rest as to my pecuniary difficulties. We 
 reached Baltimore about five. At tlie mouth of the 
 harbour there is a fort of some extent, and in good 
 order. The soldiers looked smart and clean in their 
 
 summer dress. I drank tea with Mr D , whom 
 
 I had known in Scotland, and we spent the evening 
 very pleasantly in viewing the town.
 
 ( 205 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XVI 11. 
 
 City of Baltimore — Journey to Washington — Internal Slave- 
 trade denounced — Capital of the United States — Halls of 
 Congress and Senate, and the Capitol — Interview with Ge- 
 neral Jackson, the President — Visit to Mount Vernon 
 
 Tomb of General Washington — Return to New York. 
 
 Baltimore is a thriving city. It is well situate 
 for trade on the Patapsco River, and extensive cot- 
 ton and flour mills are established in the vicinity. 
 There are some very handsome public edifices, and 
 two splendid monuments of marble, one sacred to 
 Washington, the other to tlie memory of those citi- 
 zens who fell in defence of Baltimore in 1814. The 
 population, I believe, is about 70,000. A railway 
 300 miles in extent has been commenced from this 
 to Pittsburgh, and will greatly increase the trade of 
 Baltimore. The city is well supplied with water 
 from springs within itself. In hot weather a cau- 
 tion to strangers is placarded on the public wells, 
 reminding them of the danger which attends drink- 
 ing cold water when overcome with perspiration and 
 heat. Three newly arrived emigrants died sudden- 
 ly about this time from neglecting this caution. It 
 certainly requires some self-denial to resist, and I 
 felt more tJian once uneasy for W- . and myself,
 
 20fi CITV OF BALTIMORE. 
 
 but the acidulated waters, the soda fountains, the 
 mint Juleps, Sec, presentinjj^ themselves at every cor- 
 ner, were too much for our fortitude or our fears. 
 After reasoning- gravely perhaps on the matter, and 
 coming to a sound conclusion, a tempting y?rz from 
 some marble table would be sure to lead us astray ; 
 and I believe few shops either here, in Washington, 
 or Philadelphia, escaped without a visit. It is de- 
 cidedly, however, a bad practice, and a vain one, for 
 the enemy immediately assails you, and I think with 
 renewed force. Nothing quenched my thirst so 
 agreeably, safely, and durably, as a goblet of new 
 milk during breakfast, with a lump of crystal ice 
 smmming and dissolving within it. Ice was at com- 
 mand every where in the greatest profusion, and uni- 
 versal in its application. 
 
 Tuesday, ^\st of May. — We left Baltimore this 
 morning in the stage for Washington. The distance 
 is thirty-eight miles, and the fare 13s. 6d. A gen- 
 tleman for whom I had letters resides on the way, 
 and the stage-owner very civilly secured me a place 
 by his evening coach, which M"as to pick me up if I 
 found it convenient to stop at the house of Mr C . 
 
 There is some fine scenery in the country around 
 Baltimore ; but I confess that it attracted little of 
 my attention, in an agricultural point of view. Slave- 
 ry is the law of the State, and I tliink no British 
 farmer would choose to encounter that, with so much 
 variety before him as America presents. I shall not 
 at this time enter upon the subject of slave-holding 
 in the States. It is difficult and painful. I must
 
 JOURNEY TO WASHINGTON. 207 
 
 denounce, however, the internal slave-trade, which is 
 carried on, I am afraid, to a shameful extent. In 
 the suburbs of Baltimore, I remarked an odd looking 
 mansion, resembling something between a jail and a 
 lunatic asylum. There I was told dwelt one who 
 gains his livelihood by seizing Negroes, and whose 
 myrmidons are far from scrupulous in considering 
 whether they have any legal right for pouncing on 
 their prey. Gangs of unhappy creatures are thus 
 assembled by a system of kidnapping, and shipped 
 oflF for the Southern States. At the very moment 
 we passed, a horse stood panting at the gate, and 
 covered with foam, whose rider, I verily believe, (as 
 I was told), had just returned from the pursuit of 
 some hapless and friendless Negro. 
 
 We had an hour's drive for seven miles upon the 
 first portion of the Ohio railway. The carriages 
 were drawn only by a single horse. 
 
 The Americans have a great deal to say upon the 
 exploits of the last war. Our route to-day was the 
 same as that of the Baltimore Militia, when they 
 marched out to meet General Ross ; and a passenger 
 in the coach, who was in the action, gave me full 
 details. He saw General Ross fall, and conceived 
 our advance guard to have acted improperly by re- 
 tiring into ambush when they descried the American 
 troops, instead of retiring on the main body. Ge- 
 neral Ross was thus taken by surprise ; he galloped 
 forward to reconnoitre, and was immediately taken 
 down by a rifleman. This person displayed the most 
 extraordinary and lamentable obtuseness of feeling
 
 208 JOURNEY TO WASIIINGTOX. 
 
 that I ever met with ; not a spark of filial regard for 
 his mother country seemed to remain, and he was 
 indeed thoroughly naturalized. He told me had 
 served ten years as a British officer, in a reg-iment 
 which he named, hut seemed quite insensible of 
 either awkwardness or impropriety in opposing his 
 old comrades in the field. " Why," says I, " Sir, 
 did you not feel rather queer when you marched up 
 in front of the red coats?"' " Not a bit," said he, 
 " I knew how it would l)e, that we would break at 
 the first fire;'' — either evading, or, as I am inclined 
 to think, not comprehending, the drift of my ques- 
 tion. 
 
 Maryland, so far as I saw, is sandy and poor ; but 
 I know that it possesses some rich districts. Mr 
 
 C , whose gate I reached about three, is a man 
 
 of extensive property, and possessed of a beautiful 
 mansion, which stands in a park of 2000 acres. It 
 is rare to find a country seat in America, where so 
 much ornamental improvement has taken place. 
 
 My visit arose from the kindness of Colonel 
 
 W , who was wounded and taken prisoner in 
 
 the engagement at Bladensburg in 1814, and who 
 received so much sympathy and attention upon that 
 occasion, that he came out on purpose from Scotland 
 
 two years ago, to visit Mr C and other friends, 
 
 and to cement his friendship with their family circles. 
 It is almost superfluous, therefore, to add, that any 
 reception upon delivering his letter Avas kind and 
 hospitable. 
 
 After dining, and enjoying a bottle of choice Ma-
 
 JOURNEY TO WASHINGTON. 209 
 
 deira, well iced, we walked out to see what Mr 
 
 C called \\\?>people, or, in other words, the slaves, 
 
 of whom he possesses about 200. We found them 
 engaged in planting tobacco ; and here assuredly 
 slavery wore a smiling aspect. Not that they ex- 
 hibited noisy and unmeaning mirth, but they were 
 steadily and cheerfully engaged, without an overseer 
 
 of any description. They regard Mr C as their 
 
 father and their friend ; but when looking on the 
 little ones frisking about devoid of care, I could not 
 divest myself of the remembrance that he might 
 pack them off to market like a drove of pigs, with- 
 out either father or mother having a word to say 
 against it. 
 
 Tobacco is a scourging crop. The return may be 
 taken at one hogshead per acre, and that is worth 50 
 dollars, or L. 1 1, 5s. The landed proprietors in this 
 quarter are rather indifferently off. The soil is not 
 rich, and when a farm is sold or let, the occupier, 
 after a few scourging crops, too often conti-ives to 
 pocket the amount, and slip away to the west. I 
 observed many fine standard peach-trees in the park 
 loaded with fruit. In the evening, I walked forward 
 to the village of Bladensburgh, about a mile from 
 
 the lodge of Mr C , and the evening being 
 
 remarkably warm, I entered a snug cool-looking 
 tavern, to wait for the coach. A bottle of excellent 
 ale, and, as usual, a plate of ice was placed before 
 me, and I found the book-shelves well replenished 
 with an Encyclopaedia, many volumes of poetry, 
 biography, &c. In due time the coach appeared, 
 
 o
 
 210 CITY OF WASHINGTON. 
 
 and we drove through tlie midst of the battle ground, 
 which was warmly contested on some high open 
 woodland, just beyond tho village. Here Colonel 
 
 W received his wound, wliich procured liiin the 
 
 kind attention of Mr C ; and I found next day 
 
 that his visit of gratitude was held in remembrance 
 by the President himself. We reached the city about 
 
 seven, and I found W waiting for me at Gadsby's 
 
 immense hotel. 
 
 I was now in the capital of the United States ; 
 but how shall I describe it ? It is a mighty skeleton, 
 and should the world last for some thousand years 
 longer, its massive public works may percliance be 
 found mouldering, like the remains of the manmioth. 
 I have great doubts, howevei*, whether the flesh and 
 sinews will meanwhile ever have existence. Many 
 are of opinion that the site has been rashly chosen, 
 and various other speculations bear uj)on the stagna- 
 tion of Washington. 
 
 Leaving these matters for Time to propound, I 
 will only say that the Capitol exceeded all I had 
 heard of it, and whether, from its own merits, or 
 partly, perhaps, from the absence of rivals, it struck 
 me as the most beautiful edifice I had ever seen. It 
 covers an acre and three quarters of ground, and 
 cost L. 500,000. It is built of freestone, painted, 
 and resembles marble so much, that I was at first 
 
 deceived. Captain H , cavilling at this abuse of 
 
 white lead, was told that it was resorted to for the 
 purpose of effacing the smoke of the British fire- 
 brands in 1814.
 
 CITY OF WASHINGTON. 211 
 
 The view from the mount on which it stands is com- 
 manding and extensive. For its interior, I will re- 
 fer to the many descriptions already published, and 
 shall only say, that the Halls of Congress and of the 
 Senate are indeed splendid and commodious. One 
 wide street extends for a mile from the Capitol to 
 the President's house ; but even this, which may be 
 termed the backbone of the mammoth, is yet but 
 indifferently filled up, 
 
 Wednesday, June 1. — The heat this morning is 
 excessive. Our hotel consists of a large square, with 
 four ranges of covered galleries, bed-rooms entering 
 from each of the two upper tiers. In the centre of 
 the court is a marble fountain, with a copious supply 
 of water playing upon the salads, to cool them for 
 meals. The whole building is of timber, and a watch- 
 man perambulates the house during the night (as is 
 common, I believe, in all these large hotels), to 
 guard against accidents from fire. The very idea of 
 such a household being aroused in the dead of night 
 by such an alarm, makes one quake. 
 
 I was curious to know how they contrived to 
 preserve untainted their fish, butcher-meat, &c. in 
 such weather as the present, and Mr Gadsby very 
 civilly took me down to his larder in the basement, 
 and showed me what he called a refrigerator. This 
 is a wooden chest, of any dimensions that may be 
 deemed desirable, having double sides, with an in- 
 terval of two or three inches, filled close with hard 
 packed charcoal. There is a drawer or space at the 
 bottom, to be filled with ice, and neat wire shelves 
 
 2o
 
 212 INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT JACKSON. 
 
 are suspended within, upon wliicli the provisions 
 are phiced. In this way, every thing is kept in the 
 best condition, and the butter was equally hard and 
 firm as if the thermometer had been 50^ below the 
 point at which it actually stood. 
 
 It had naturally been my wish, when in Washing- 
 ton, to be introduced to the President, and a kind 
 friend in New York had promised me a letter, with 
 that view, to Mr Van Buren, at that time Secretary 
 of State. Ere he had accomplished his promise, 
 however, a more particular private friend of Mr 
 Van Buren's coming in his way, he transferred the 
 introduction to him, and a letter was sent me from 
 Mr Cambreleng, couched in the kindest terms, upon 
 my object in visiting the States. This letter I had 
 transmitted on my arrival last night, and was polite- 
 ly requested to wait on Mr Van Buren upon the fol- 
 lowing day. I now called as appointed, and found 
 a message requesting me to follow the Secretary to 
 the President's house, where he had been unexpected- 
 ly sent for. I directly drove thither, and was re- 
 ceived by a respectable " maitre d'hotel," and shown 
 into a drawing-room, well furnished in a private 
 style, and provided with abundance of periodicals to 
 pass the time. By-and-by Mr Van Buren made his 
 appearance, and received me with cordiality and 
 kindness. Shortly afterwards, the venerable Gene- 
 ral himself came down. He is a tall, thin old gen- 
 tleman, of plain unaffected demeanour. He talked 
 with kindly feelings towards Great Britain, inquired 
 into my own views, and the opinion I had formed of
 
 INTERVIEW "WITH PRESIDENT JACKSON. 213 
 
 America. He mentioned certain portions of the 
 continent as in his opinion desirable for settlers (he 
 is partial to warm climates), and finally dispatched 
 a message, by his private Secretary, to the General 
 Land-office, for Mr Hayward, the Head Commis- 
 sioner of that department, to come to him, that I 
 might make his acquaintance. In this interval, a 
 scene rather ludicrous occurred, but which ultimate- 
 ly conduced to put us on more free and easy terms. 
 The door opened, and, of all men, who should be an- 
 nounced but Mr C , whose letter, introducing 
 
 his particular friend Mr Fergusson, I had indeed de- 
 livered, but whose face, until that moment, I had 
 never seen. My own physiognomy, I doubt not, 
 somewhat explained my sensations ; for Mr Van 
 Buren immediately rose, and kindly relieved me, by 
 saying, " Permit me, Mr Fergusson, to introduce 
 you to your friend Mr C ," much to the amuse- 
 ment of the President, who laughed heartily at what 
 he could at first by no means decypher ; and, it must 
 be acknowledged, that the coincidence was strange 
 enough, which brought him, unlocked for, at this 
 very moment, and during the short period of my in- 
 terview. 
 
 The President inquired whether, as regards emi- 
 gration, I felt inclined to prefer Canada or the States? 
 In reply, I stated, that I was much pleased with 
 what I had seen of Upper Canada, and that I be- 
 lieved he would not think the worse of me for hav- 
 ing some bias to our own settlements. " Certainly 
 not. Sir, and I have no hesitation in saying, that, so
 
 214 INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT JACKSON. 
 
 far as regards climate and soil, it is a matter of in- 
 difference, in my opinion, whether settlers go to 
 Upper Canada or to us ; but, I tvill say" (witli some 
 emphasis), " that, in the States, they will find more 
 stirring;" a remark which is perfectly just, but 
 which I am far from admitting to be any discourage- 
 ment. The resources of our Upper Province remain 
 yet to be developed. Air Van Buren observed (and 
 it was the only observation I lieard that could be 
 said to have a " smack of the court,'') that he had al- 
 ways been particularly struck by the steadiness and 
 success of Scotch settlers. At the same time, and 
 Avitliout any undue national partiality, I believe, he 
 is amply borne out by facts. It was highly satisfac- 
 tory to hear the libei-al and friendly expressions of 
 these statesmen towards Great Britain, and to wit- 
 ness the satisfaction with which they received my 
 assurance, that in all my promiscuous intercourse 
 with American citizens (one only exception unworthy 
 of notice), I had every where met with a congenial 
 and growing spirit of fraternity and goodwill. Some 
 wounds are yet too raw for liandliiig, such as our 
 own visit in 1814 to Washington; but if officious 
 meddlers leave these alone, time will soon obliterate 
 every feeling of rancour. I was very cordially wel- 
 cx)med by Mr Hayward, who took me with him to 
 his office, and presented me with several important 
 documents, and all the information he could give up- 
 on the capabilities, value, and extent of government, 
 lands. I took my leave of the President, highly 
 gratified with my reception. The upper part of the
 
 VISIT TO MOUNT VERNON. 215 
 
 National Mansion-House (we must not say Palace), 
 I believe, is appropriated to the private accommoda- 
 tion of the Chief Magistrate, and the lower to state 
 apartments, which are very handsome, but were at 
 this time underg-oing repairs. Tliese rooms are open 
 to the public, and large parties were perambulating 
 such as were for the time unoccupied, just as the 
 houses of noblemen are visited with us, barring and 
 excepting all shabby perquisites to menials. The 
 grounds around the house were by no means in cre- 
 ditable order. 
 
 TJmrsday, 2d June. — Another brilliant day. Tlier- 
 mometer at 86°. We breakfasted early, intending 
 to take the steam-boat to Alexandria, and thence 
 drive to Mount Vernon, which I felt the greatest 
 anxiety to visit. Our attendants at breakfast were 
 busied with large flappers in keeping up a circula- 
 tion of air about the table. There is at this time a 
 keen stage opposition on the road to Baltimore, and 
 the owner of the coach in which we booked ourselves 
 for the evening, offered us his gig to drive to the 
 steam-boat, a distance of a mile and a half, through 
 streets and squares that are to be, and which we found 
 no trifling accommodation in a day so sultry. The 
 Potomac is a noble river, of great depth and width, 
 and tlie country on the Virginian shore, but within 
 the district of Columbia, is romantic and fine : fur- 
 ther down it becomes tame. An extensive bridge of 
 wood unites the two banks, nearly opposite to the 
 city, but it was injured by the ice hi spring, and has 
 not yet been repaired. We passed the Arsenal and
 
 21G VISIT TO MOUNT VERNON. 
 
 Navy-yard, and sailed aloiig-side of a stately frigate, 
 named after the river in which she lay, and just 
 about to depart for China. Alexandria, seven miles 
 below Washington, is the shipping port where the 
 trade of the city and adjoining district is chiefly car- 
 ried on. We here got a neat light coach, a pair of 
 sleek, well fed horses, and a grinning good-humoured 
 Blackey to drive ns to Mount Vernon, a distance of 
 about a dozen miles, for which we paid three dol- 
 lars, or 13s. 6d. 
 
 The road is through a wild and rather sterile dis- 
 trict. The forest scenery was in some places ro- 
 mantic, and the variety of oaks surprised us, at least 
 half-a-dozen different species being discernible as we 
 drove along. The Kalmia latifolia (Mountain Lau- 
 rel), here called Honeysuckle, in a luxuriance and 
 beauty which baffle description, twined around their 
 stems, and beds of lovely flowers enamelled the 
 ground. At last Mount Vernon appeared, and the 
 feelings with which (I am not ashamed to say) I al- 
 most idolize the memory of Washington, made it in 
 my eyes a spot of no ordinary interest. The first 
 object which attracted my attention was a noble 
 field of wheat in full ear, with a close useful cedar- 
 hedge along its side, a convenience easily adopted, 
 and which would tend greatly to improve the hus- 
 bandry of America. 
 
 The American black-thorn is also a good fence, 
 and is rejected by the cattle, who browse upon and 
 destroy the Virginian. The next object we en- 
 countered was, what I would rather have met any
 
 TOMB OF GENERAL WASHINGTON. 217 
 
 where else, a gang of Negro slaves, engaged in plant- 
 ing tobacco. There are probably few things more 
 humiliating in the history of our race than to con- 
 sider Washington as holding in bondage his fellow- 
 men. The mansion is not large, but with its wings 
 and offices makes a handsome appearance. The 
 situation is very fine, upon a bank overlooking the 
 Potomac, with fine woodland scenery on every side. 
 Judge Washington, to whom the estate now per- 
 tains, considers it unhealthy, and resides in a distant 
 part of the State. 
 
 We were conducted by a little Negro boy to the 
 tomb of the patriot and hero : for, sure I am, if ever 
 man existed, who, in real life, gave meaning to these 
 terms, it was here that he lived and died. The ori- 
 ginal vault was upon the river bank, below the house, 
 but had suffered so much from damp, that it was 
 found expedient, about two months ago, to remove 
 the remains to a new one at some little distance. 
 This is a simple building, in good taste, bearing up- 
 on a plain marble tablet the inscription, " Tomb of 
 the Washington Family," and beneath, " I am the 
 Resurrection and the Life," &c. Often had I read 
 with envy of visits to this spot, and now I actually 
 stood where his ashes rest. Without the smallest 
 tinge of the sentimental, I can say with truth, that 
 few events of my life ever interested my feelings 
 more, nor could I help reciting aloud — 
 
 " How sleep the brave, who sink to rest, 
 By all their country's wishes blest ;
 
 218 TOMB OF GENERAL WASHINGTON. 
 
 M^hen Spring,with dewy fingers cold. 
 Returns to derk tlieir luillowM mould, 
 She there will dress a sweeter sod 
 Than Fancy^s feet have ever trod" 
 
 I tliink Collins must have been favoured with a pro- 
 phetic vision of Mount Vernon, when he penned 
 these beautiful lines. 
 
 Our ding-y guide looked somewhat astonished at 
 my effusion, and, I doubt not, was all the while, in 
 sober earnest, reckoning up how iwixny Ji penny hits 
 he was likely to make of us. AYe walked over the 
 rooms of the house without meeting any thing of in- 
 terest, saving, perhaps, the key of the Bastile, de- 
 posited here by La P'ayette, a well chosen gift to 
 lay upon the altar of independence. 
 
 Ihe neglected condition of Bural Grave-yards 
 struck me with surprize, indeed sometimes with dis- 
 gust. That a people of yesterday should feel some- 
 what indifferent to gorgeous mausoleums, is natural 
 enough ; but that it should extend to the absence of 
 common decency, is reprehensible and disgraceful. 
 I do not recollect of observing one instance of a bu- 
 rial-ground (except in towns) which was kept in to- 
 lerable order, while too frequently the remains of 
 departed friends Avere open to every unhallowed bi- 
 ped or quadruped who might be inclined to intrude. 
 This ought not to be, and it is to be hoped, the bet- 
 ter feelings of the people will ere long be awakened 
 to correct it. The absence of parochial divisions, 
 and the frequent changes of property, with the con- 
 sequent changes of abode, will go far to explain this
 
 RETURN TO NEW YORK. 2] 9 
 
 neglect ; but although these causes may afford some 
 explanation, they form no substantial excuse ; and 
 we can even imagine the National Union to be ce- 
 mented by visits from the childi*en, now perhaps 
 settled upon the Mississippi or Ohio, to the sacred 
 spot where, on the banks of the Hudson or Connec- 
 ticut, may rest the ashes of their fathers. 
 
 We returned to the city, and in the afternoon 
 proceeded to Baltimore. The only object of inte- 
 rest on the road occurred after sunset, when the fo- 
 rest, in its deepest recesses, assumed the semblance 
 of a great city under a splendid illumination. Mil- 
 lions of fire-flies flitted on every side, and presented 
 one of the most beautiful and interesting spectacles 
 
 which W or I had ever witnessed. The heat 
 
 during this day has been about as great as is ever 
 known, the thermometer ranging even so high as 
 92° and 94° in the shade. 
 
 It was late before we reached Baltimore, and we 
 left it early next morning, in the steam-boat, for 
 Philadelphia. Our boat was the " Carrol of Carrol- 
 ton," named after a venerable old gentleman, sole 
 survivor then (for he, too, is since gone) of those 
 who signed the Declaration of Independence. We 
 had a crowded cabin, and all descriptions of travel- 
 lers, even from the prince to the peasant. The for- 
 mer a " rara avis " here, was personified by a most 
 agreeable and intelligent individual, the Prince of 
 Wurtemberg, then returning from an extensive tour 
 in the south and west. 
 _ Of the humbler class, we had some of the rough-
 
 220 RKTURN TO NEW YORK. 
 
 est gentry I had yet met witli. A portion of the 
 stern gallery is specially appropriated to the ladies, 
 where they may sit or walk without intrusion. In 
 ignorance, I had sauntered to that end of the vessel, 
 and two very coarse-looking gentlemen followed my 
 steps, when presently a person came to us to men- 
 tion that we were breaking rules, at the same time 
 whispering in my ear that I miglit stay or retire, as 
 I pleased. One of my fellow-culprits observed what 
 passed, and immediately questioned me what the 
 captain might have been saying to me. I told him, 
 what was very true, that I was not aware he had 
 been the captain ; " Yes," says he, " it's the cap- 
 tain ; and I ffiiess he was making an excuse to t/ou for 
 turning us forward, and that you might stay." Of 
 course I closed the discussion by walking forward, 
 but I could see that their feelings were pi'etti/ cofisi- 
 derahly excited. 
 
 We made the run to Philadelphia, 120 miles, in 
 eleven hours, including the delay of the canal. I 
 had some interesting conversation in Philadelphia 
 with Mr Carey, one of the most eminent publishers 
 and bibliopoles of America ; but upon that I cannot 
 at present enter. 
 
 Saturday, Ath June. — Anotlier roaster. We moved 
 at six in the steamer for New York, and met with 
 nothing particular, except our extraordinary caval- 
 cade across Jersey by Princeton. The road was 
 mere sand, and the day stiltry beyond tolerance. 
 We started thirteen coaches, and the cloud of dust 
 is more easily imagined than described. We kept at
 
 RETURN TO NEW YORK. 221 
 
 a respectful distance, too, from each other, but there 
 was not an air of wind to dispei'se the foe ; and ma- 
 ny a green silk pelisse and gay bonnet would, I am 
 sure, rue their appearance on this occasion. The 
 agony of the fair owners was affecting and amusing 
 by turns. 
 
 Upon the Monday and Tuesday of the following 
 week, I was engaged in taking leave of friends, and 
 
 in making preparations for my voyage. W and 
 
 I had made an appointment with our friend the cat- 
 tle-dealer, to meet him on the morning of the 6th in 
 the Smithfield of New York, and we attended ac- 
 cordingly. The stance is about two miles from 
 town, with very suitable yards and pens. The show 
 was rather indifferent this morning, and our friend 
 had been prevented from getting there. I think 
 there were about 200 oxen on the ground, running 
 from 40 st. to 70 st. each, but they could not be 
 reckoned more than half fat. I think they had all 
 been in the yoke. We breakfasted at the ordinary 
 with the butchers and graziers, and, though not quite 
 so elegant as in Bunker's, had every thing comfort- 
 able and clean. 
 
 The most entertaining circumstance we met with, 
 was the free and unsophisticated ease of a gentle- 
 man, whom I fixed upon, in my estimate of charac- 
 ters at breakfast, as one of the leading and old-esta- 
 blished butchers of the city. He seemed quite at 
 home with all the farmers, handled their stock in 
 proper style, decided on their weight, condition, &c. 
 with equal promptitude and fluency. I determined 
 to make a set at him, and thought I had done won-
 
 222 RETURN TO NEW YORK. 
 
 <Iers when he took me by the arm and led me off to 
 tlie yards to look at some oxen just come in. There, 
 however, to my surprise and amusement, I discover- 
 ed that my friend had only landed tivo days before 
 from the " Emerald Isle." He stated himself to be 
 a man of substance, and had thouf^hts of purchasiufj 
 a stock-farm in Pennsylvania. He had a very cor- 
 rect eye (and he had but one) for the points of a 
 good beast. We thought him a frank and pleasant 
 man, well informed upon rural affairs, and I could 
 have been well satisfied, had time and chance ad- 
 mitted, of improving our acquaintance.
 
 ( 223 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Character of the Americans — Jealousy of Independence — Ca- 
 techetical Propensity — Pedantic Nomenclature — Peculiar 
 Phraseology — Personal Habits — Servants or H elps — Respect 
 for the Fair Sex — State of Religion and Morality — Ameri- 
 can Constitution and Public Men — Misrepresentations of 
 the Quarterly Review and Captain Basil Hall. 
 
 Now, when about to re-embark, it may be asked, 
 have I nothing- to say upon the manners and tem- 
 per of the Americans ? I have much ; and anxi- 
 ously do I wish that my pen were adequate to the 
 task. It appears to me unfair to draw conclusions 
 upon National Manners or Character from the as- 
 sumption that all is perfection at home. Yet, I am 
 afraid, something- of this nature pervades too many 
 of our late productions on America. I bear no ma- 
 lice, nor do I entertain any desire to quiz; but nei- 
 ther will I insult the Citizens of the States with ful- 
 some adulation, nor with protestations of candour 
 and good will, which they have too much reason to 
 translate into jealousy and spleen — 
 
 " Timeo Danaos, et dona ferentes." 
 
 Believing myself to have scanned them, upon 
 the whole, passably well, and having never got foul 
 of Jonathan save upon one occasion, I will hazard a 
 guess or two, and trust to his candour if I fail.
 
 224 JEALOUSY OF INDEPENDENCE. 
 
 In the very foremost rank of an American's pecu- 
 liarities stands liis assertion of Independence. Sure 
 never did soldier strut in scarlet, or bedecked with 
 orders, half so jealous of his honour, as a citizen of 
 the States does at all times feel upon this tender 
 point; and should it be occasionally pressed to an in- 
 convenient excess, the strang-er will do well to remem- 
 ber that, historically speaking', their national existence 
 is but of yesterday, and that the Sons of Columbia are 
 to be reg-arded somewhat in the light of young men 
 recently put in possession of unbounded wealth. 
 Near akin to, and the offspring- of this feeling, is a 
 certain love of display too frequently met with, and 
 which undoubtedly tends to excite a portion of ri- 
 dicule and disgust. 
 
 An American presumes the whole world to be 
 equally versed in the affairs and occurrences of his 
 country, as he is himself. Perambulating one day 
 the deck of a steam-boat, a fellow-passenger inquired 
 of me, with an air of much anxiety, " What we 
 really thouglit, in the old country, of the death of 
 their two Presidents ?" The question was to me a 
 poser, nor could I for my life guess what he was at. 
 By a little civil evasion, however, I managed to ex- 
 tract the answer from himself, and in the Cliapter of 
 Chances, the circumstance was certainly to be regis- 
 tered as strange. The 4th of July, as we all know, 
 is the great anniversary of the Declaration of Inde- 
 pendence in the States. Since that event occurred, 
 four Presidents have died, viz. Washington, Adams, 
 Jefferson, and Monroe. Of these, the three last
 
 TENDENCY TO ROAM. 225 
 
 have expired upon the 4th of July. But what my 
 Yankee friend especially alluded to, was the death 
 of Adams and of Jefferson. These statesmen had 
 been long estranged from each otlier, and being now 
 at a very advanced age, mutual friends brought 
 about a reconciliation, that they might go down to 
 their graves in peace. An arrangement was ac- 
 cordingly made for this Christian purpose, and a 
 meeting was fixed for the then ensuing 4th of July. 
 Upon that identical morning, both of these indivi- 
 duals breathed their last. — But to return. Again 
 and again did my ears ring with " We are the hap- 
 piest people in the world, Sir ;" and, although I felt 
 no desire to gainsay or deny the fact, still the tone 
 bordered so closely upon self-adulation, that I must 
 acknowledge it did sometimes raise the old country 
 mmis bile. 
 
 With all this love of country, too, it appears 
 somewhat anomalous, that wheresoever the bump of 
 adhesiveness may be found, in vain will the disciples of 
 Spurzheim search for it upon the cranium of an Ame- 
 rican. However valuable, liowever beautiful, may 
 be his estate, however endeared as the scene of 
 youthful enjoyment, or of the more sober avocations 
 of maturer years, let but a tempting offer present it- 
 self, and he yields it without a sigh. It is difficult 
 to analyze this peculiarity. Perhaps it originates, 
 in some measvu-e, from the absence of those rights of 
 primogeniture, which bind us so forcibly to our pa- 
 ternal acres. Probably, too, it is increased by tliat 
 spirit of commercial enterprize, naturally engendered
 
 226 CATECHETICAL PKOPENSITY. 
 
 by the perpetual influx of strangers, and the bound- 
 less tracts of fertile land which thoir continent af- 
 fords. 
 
 Next in order, I think, comes the catechetical pro- 
 pensity, so grievously offensive to some British tra- 
 vellers in the States ; and truly, if a stranger reckons 
 upon escaping such an ordeal, he reckons without his 
 host. Let us, however, coolly reflect upon the com- 
 parative seclusion in which so many inhabitants of 
 America are compelled to live. Let us bear in re- 
 niend)rance, what a precious morceau a wliite man 
 proves upon the banks of the Niger,— aye, or even a 
 real London master or miss, in remote corners of 
 our own laud, — and peradventure, if in tolerable 
 o-ood humour, we may somewhat extenuate the of- 
 fence, and lighten the penance, which a stranger m 
 America must expect to undergo. For myself, I al- 
 ways took it easy, and, in return, uniformly expe- 
 rienced the most hearty goodwill, in affording or in 
 procuring me information of every kind. 
 
 In the heavy catalogue of national offences, Ave have 
 ofttimes found recorded a protest against those mag- 
 nificent names appended to places of little note, and 
 in fact to the crime of pedantry in general. This 
 charge, I am afraid, we must admit. Not that the 
 world in general can be said to have a just right to 
 animadvert upon the nomenclature which a nation 
 may see fit to adopt. But, really, it cannot but ex- 
 cite a smile, when we meet with luunlets, insignifi- 
 cant at present, and without any reasonable prospect 
 of much extension, figuring under the imposing ap-
 
 PEDANTIC NOMENCLATURE. 227 
 
 pellatives of Athens and of Rome, Paris and Vienna, 
 Madrid and Lisbon, Cairo and Delhi, &c. &c. The 
 vagaries of land-surveyors and of land speculators, 
 to whom these absurdities are ascribed, deserve se- 
 rious reprobation, and, in my humble opinion, are 
 worthy of legislative intei'ference ; for what can any 
 man think of the good sense or good taste of a peo- 
 ple, who submit to have their letters addressed to 
 them at such post-towns as Brutus and Buckram, 
 Butterfly and Byron, Hector and Head of Cowneck, 
 Ossian and Oyster Ponds, with many such prepos- 
 terous et cceteras. And again, in casting our eye upon 
 the course of the interesting Su^quehannah, and 
 tracing its tributary rills, who will not revolt with 
 horror at finding it debased by the odious creek of 
 Yellow Breeches pouring into the classic stream ? 
 Tliese are matters, however, of comparatively minor 
 importance, when we look to their literary trans- 
 gressions. That America can boast of pure and ele- 
 gant writers, is sufficiently well known. But it is 
 no less certain, that, from a sturdy contempt of words 
 purely English, or from some other cause, pedantry 
 in its worst form may be occasionally discovered. 
 Take an example, which I should reckon a fair one, 
 and which came quite accidentally in ray way. Mr 
 Schoolcraft, apparently a man of education and 
 science, attached to a Government Expedition, 
 which visited the North- Western Territory in 1820, 
 has published a very interesting account of the tour. 
 In this work, at p. 277, may be read the details of a 
 
 p2
 
 228 YANKEE PHUASEOLOGY. 
 
 Buffalo Hunt, in wliich the author sees fit to express 
 himself as follows : — 
 
 " All who had guns adapted for the purpose, sal- 
 lied forth in separate parties upon the Prairie, while 
 those who felt less ambition to sig-nalise themselves, 
 or were more illy accoutred, remained upon an emi- 
 nence," <iv:c. 
 
 Now, really, in whatever contempt Mr S. may 
 please to hold our mutual mother tongue, we will ap- 
 peal to his candour and good taste, whether he has 
 not proved himself more illy accoutred, by the substi- 
 tute he has chosen, for what, as an Irishman might 
 say, would have been far better, had it been worse. 
 
 The coinage of new words, and peculiar applica- 
 tion of old ones, has been the fruitful theme of mirth 
 to John Bull. Of these, some are certainly odd 
 enough, but in most instances novelty of application 
 constitutes the only novelty that exists. Something 
 original does, however, occasionally meet your ear. 
 A word in one of Cooper's novels had struck my 
 fancy, and seemed to be one not very likely to oc- 
 cur. A few days, however, after reaching New 
 York, a grave and sententious gentleman in the ho- 
 tel was detailing to me the desolation of the city 
 during the last visitation of yellow fever, and de- 
 scribing the barricade which extended quite across 
 the town, separating the living from the dead. " I 
 assure you, sir," he said, MMth a most portentous as- 
 pect, " it was monstrous pokerish.'^ The living 
 adaptation of a phrase, \yhich I had never thought of
 
 YANKEE PHRASEOLOGY. 229 
 
 being brought into use, had well nigh overset the 
 gravity which my narrator and his subject demanded. 
 
 Talk to an American, or rather recount something 
 to him, and he responds with many a nasal " Possi- 
 ble" " I declare," or " Tliat's a fact;" all civil expres- 
 sions of assent or of interest felt in your communi- 
 cations ; and what are such expressions but syno- 
 nyms of " Really" " 'Pon my word" " You dont say 
 so" &c. current among ourselves. A coachman in- 
 quires, perhaps, if his passengers are all on board, 
 which sounds odd enough ; and if a steward or a ca- 
 bin-boy wishes to be very civil and smart, he assures 
 you that he is going right up or right off to do your 
 errand. Shops are termed Stores, and these again 
 figure under the respective designations of John 
 Tomkins's Grocery, Bakery, Bindery, or even Wig- 
 gery, as the case may be ; and why not ? Such ex- 
 pressions sufficiently serve their purpose, and I see 
 no ground for being jocose upon the subject. 
 
 It is not unusual to find Americans indulging a 
 very flowery phraseology upon ordinary enough oc- 
 casions. Some officers related to me the capture of 
 a young American captain, last war. He had crossed 
 a ravine, in front of the British line, with sufficient 
 gallantry, but without having been followed by his 
 men, and there found himself solus with some rather 
 inconvenient neighbours. A shot from one of our 
 skirmishers, quickly brought him, a woimded pri- 
 soner, into the British Camp. Recounting his mis- 
 hap, and inveighing against the defection of his men,
 
 230 
 
 PERSONAL HABITS. 
 
 he exclaimed, " When I found, sir, tliat I was all 
 alone, Omnipotent Jupiter ! how I did strahe it." 
 
 Take another example of metaphoric flight. Not 
 long since, a British officer, in Kingston, was pur- 
 chasing a horse from an American dealer. The va- 
 rious perfections having been descanted upon in such 
 terms as are commonly in use ; " Now, sir," quoth 
 the Yankee, in language more replete with point 
 than with propriety, " if you would have a horse to 
 sleep upon, don't buy him ; but if you would have a 
 creature to carry you through h without singe- 
 ing the feather in your cap, there he stands." 
 
 And now, I believe it is time that I should advert 
 to those personal habits which have been so severely 
 and universally reprobated, nor is it possible to of- 
 fer any sufficient apology for the freedoms too com- 
 monly used. The liberal use of tobacco, arising from 
 its native abundance, and its utility in a newly set- 
 tled country. With the originally rough and unpo- 
 lished character of American society, are causes 
 which have evidently engendered the practices which 
 we decry. Sometimes I could imagine that the 
 same jealousy of foreign interference which is felt in 
 more important aff"airs, was not altogether without 
 its influence here. Many of the older citizens live 
 in the most profound ignorance of any impropriety 
 in the act. I was told of a certain old Dutch go- 
 vernor, who happened to visit a fine lady, with a 
 very fine drawing-room, and who found, for reasons 
 unknown to him, an elegant jsipanned box placed
 
 PERSONAL HABITS. 
 
 231 
 
 beside his chair. Seated in form, the qidd began to 
 roll, and the lady to tremble for her Brussels. The 
 great man looked askance at the little box, and then 
 gravely discharged his shower on the other side. 
 Nothing dismayed, the dame preserved her temper, 
 and, by an adroit pedestrian movement, transferred 
 the article to what seemed to be the favourite side. 
 Anon the mouth of the Dutchman filled : again he 
 looked, and perceiving the change, so ingeniously 
 efi^ected, with the most pei-fect simplicity, exclaimed, 
 " Really, madam, if you don't put away that pretty 
 box, I guess I'll spit in it." 
 
 I think the Americans will gradually, perhaps ra- 
 pidly, abandon these habits, but certainly the acri- 
 monious remarks of foreigners will not accelerate the 
 day. In many respects, they are scrupulously clean- 
 ly and particular. When travelling, I often re- 
 marked the unvarying practice of the most ordinary 
 persons, in their daily changes of linen, &c. ; while 
 in the humble mansions, you are sure to find the ta- 
 ble linen, &c. tidy and clean. Salt-spoons were fre- 
 quently awanting on the road, and the substitution 
 of knives was adopted ; but in the utmost hurry and 
 scramble of a numerous party, I saw no man ever 
 help himself to butter, except with the knife spe- 
 cially allotted for the purpose. These are trifling 
 matters, but still they bear upon the question, and 
 still I would urge the necessity of remembering, 
 that what is new may yet be neither inconvenient nor 
 wrong, where custom has sanctioned its adoption. 
 
 John Bull, seated, perhaps for the first time in his
 
 232 PERSONAL HABITS. 
 
 life upon a hard-bottomed A\^indsor cliair, and at a 
 breakfast table with fifty or a hundred total strangers, 
 is somewhat put about. The clatter, and marvellous 
 celerity of mastication, />re#/y considerahh/ annoy him ; 
 while, in lieu of smart waiters, a set of grinning 
 Negroes, in snow-white garments, minister to his 
 wants. He looks round for an egg-cup, and lo ! a 
 wine-glass, like a half-pint, is presented to him. In 
 this he vainly essays to poise his e^^, until, casting 
 his eye across the table, he perceives that his neigh- 
 bour has already disposed of a couple, by turning the 
 contents into the glass, and the shells into the slop- 
 basin. Getting over the aifair of the e^^, he puts 
 in his claim to a beefsteak, or rather to a portion, 
 that article commonly rivalling, in regard to size, 
 the top of a lady's work table, and has just, much to 
 his satisfaction, commenced his attack, when again he 
 is arrested by an offer of some sddce, and a kind 
 Yankee proffers him, at the same time, a plate of 
 very questionable looking stuff", which, should his 
 complacency or curiosity induce him to accept, 
 proves — Oh I ye shades of Apicius and of Kitche- 
 ner ! positively to he apj)les in preserve. These mat- 
 ters are no doubt, jinnoying ; but yet we ought not 
 to be over hasty in our criticisms, nor pronounce dog- 
 matically upon the comforts of foreigners, until we 
 have looked more soberly at home. 
 
 Domestic attendants, those fruitful agents of com- 
 fort or of torment, form by no means the most 
 agreeable ingredients of an American household. 
 It cannot bo expected, in a land where so many
 
 DOMESTIC ATTENDANTS. 233 
 
 openings present themselves for securing an inde- 
 pendence, that those ties can exist, which, in Britain, 
 carry domestics through years of service, and almost 
 identify them with the family itself. Such things 
 are not to be looked for in the States for generations 
 to come. But I do not believe that matters are in 
 reality nearly so bad as have been represented. 
 Many respectable friends assured me, and my per- 
 sonal observation concurred, that the difficulties of 
 procuring and of managing domestics have been 
 greatly exaggerated. You must lay your account 
 Avith frequent changes, which are certainly unplea- 
 sant, but still the supply is found, and by a proper 
 admixture of firmness and of kindness, due obedience 
 and respect will generally be secured. In the newly 
 settled regions of the West, tlie difficulty is necessa- 
 rily enhanced and the discomfort augmented; but this 
 is just one of the desagremens which an Ohio or 
 Michigan settler must take into account. Where 
 they fail to do so, disappointment and annoyance 
 must follow. In the families of the ricli you en- 
 counter no parti-coloured fops, with loads of lace 
 and livery buttons ; but you meet with genteel, obli- 
 ging, and respectable attendants, frequently from the 
 continent of Europe ; and in ordinary families or 
 public hotels, &c. men of colour, i. e. Blacks, are the 
 usual lielps. From none did I ever receive an un- 
 civil word or meet witli a sulky look. I was civil 
 to them, and they were at all times civil and ser- 
 viceable to me. But we are told no man dares to 
 call one of his attendants servant. Perhaps such a
 
 234 RESPECT FOR THE LADIES. 
 
 term might give ofl'ence : I know not. But let us 
 think for a moment how rarely have we occasion, 
 at home, to cull on Jack or Tom, by such a designa- 
 tion. Tlie insidious and unreasonable prejudice 
 which too generally prevails in America against un- 
 happy Negroes, and a dread upon the part of those 
 who are free, of being classed with their less fortu- 
 nate brethren, contributes greatly to a dislike of the 
 term servant in the States, which is there considered 
 as nearly synonymous with slave. 
 
 It has surprized me a good deal in some recent pub- 
 lications, to observe an insinuation brought against 
 the Americans, of rude indifference towards the 
 softer sex. So totally different was my impression, 
 that over and over again in my note-book, I find a 
 reflexion recorded, that America is the very Para- 
 dise for ladies, and that both in public and in private 
 they seem to be treated as a sort of pets. The sole 
 contx-ol of the household appeared to be given up 
 to them, but severe and laborious duties were never 
 exacted. In public conveyances the most scrupulous 
 deference was at all times paid to the female traveller, 
 and in an especial degree if she chanced to be without 
 a male conij)anion or friend. In a late clever pub- 
 lication, we Jiave had a picture given us of an Ame- 
 rican ball-room, where the ladies were left to flirt 
 their fans, while the gentlemen retired to a comfort- 
 able supper. I am bound to believe the fact, but I 
 totally deny the general inference, that American 
 beaux are so shamefully insensible to the comfort of 
 their belles. In the case in question I am almost
 
 EESPKCT FOR THE LADIES. 235 
 
 sure that some particular cause must have occasioned 
 the arrangement, seeing that it is at total variance 
 vt'ith the tenderness and respect bestowed by Ame- 
 ricans on their countrywomen. That Mrs Trollope 
 may have personally met with indifference and dis- 
 respect, I make little doubt. The tone of her work 
 is that of disappointment and chagrin. Whether 
 this may have proceeded from the failure of certain 
 speculations in Cincinnati, or from the coolness which 
 respectable female society in the States would most 
 properly display towards the chum of an infidel and li- 
 bertine Fanny Wright, are points of little moment, 
 save to the lady herself. But all who delight in 
 candour and honesty-must reprobate works, however 
 smartly written, where sweeping inferences are 
 drawn from isolated facts, and a prominence given 
 in the foreground to features which, with any due 
 regard to truth, could only have been delineated as 
 existing in the most shadowy distance of the land- 
 scape. I am strongly inclined to suspect that Mrs 
 Trollope has either never mixed in good society in 
 the States, or that she wilfully misrepresents it. 
 Neither can I altogether pass over her Pencil Illus- 
 trations of American manners. In common with 
 most of her readers, I smiled over them, good easy 
 man, under the simple belief, that she presented us 
 with the fruit of her own observation and adven- 
 tures. But how was the spell broken, and how did 
 they dwindle in interest, when a hint reached me 
 that these living pictures of offending Yankees posi- 
 tively owed their existence to the labours of an ac-
 
 2.10 STATE OF RELIGION. 
 
 «!oiiiplislied fellow-passeng'er in the packet on her 
 homeward voyag-e. My conviction remains unshaken, 
 tliat the Americans value and delight in female so- 
 ciety ; and it is to the gentle and winning influence 
 of such agents, that I fondly look for an early aban- 
 donment of habits, which truth txnd good-breeding 
 nmst decidedly condemn. 
 
 The state of religion in a nation is always deeply 
 interesting, and some peculiar features distinguish 
 in tins respect the United States. Here a church 
 establishment has no existence. Each congregation, 
 and of whatever sect, is strictly independent. It 
 would ill become me, with the limited means of 
 knowledge which I possess, to offer an opinion up- 
 on so grave a subject. Strong arguments may be 
 adduced in support of an established church, and 
 perhaps no less forcible reasons adduced to condemn 
 it. The remark of a citizen of New York regard- 
 ing this point, seemed to me to be reasonable and 
 just. " It is one thing," says he, " Sir, to start, ab 
 initio, as we have done, without an established 
 church, and another, and very different one, to pull 
 down a venerable fabric, Aviiich has existed for ages, 
 and has become incorporated witli the constitution 
 itself." Wild and extravjigant fanatics have too fre- 
 quently brought disgrace upon religion in the States, 
 and Unitarianism has in many places made fearful 
 strides. Still the conclusion to which I have come 
 is favourable to the growth of pure and vital Chris- 
 tianity in the populous and civilized portion of the 
 Union. It is a point, however, which I would touch
 
 STATE OK REMGION. 237 
 
 M-ith diffidence, knowing the incompetency of a bird 
 of passag-e like myself to enlarge upon such a sub- 
 ject. I heard several orthodox and earnest preachers. 
 I observed, in public and in private, a decent obser- 
 vance of the Sabbath. The official papers of govern- 
 ment uniformly recognise the superintending care of 
 a beneficent God. No shops were to be seen open 
 on the day of sacred rest, still less were theatres or 
 places of amusement. Public travelling was not in 
 general use, and the transmission of the mail on that 
 day had been debated in the preceding session of 
 Congress, where the question was lost, chiefly on 
 the ground, that tlie Constitution forbade any inter- 
 ference by government with matters of conscience. 
 There can be no doubt, however, that Sabbath pro- 
 fanation is practised in some quarters to a fearful 
 extent. As regards the fruits of religion, there can 
 be little question, that, taking them as z, people, the 
 citizens of America are virtuous and exemplary. 
 Conjugal infidelity is extremely rare, and in more 
 than one of the States, is visited by fine and impri- 
 sonment. In the large cities, at least of the Middle 
 and Northern States, vice does not stalk abroad in 
 that disgusting form, which may be said to deprive 
 respectable females in Europe of the free enjoyment 
 of our public spectacles and walks. Neither did I 
 observe one solitary instance of filthy ribaldry on 
 doors or walls, which so generally presents itself 
 among ourselves. A great deal has been said re- 
 garding the abuse of ardent spirits, and the terms 
 Gin Sling, Mint Julops, Antifogmatics, Sec. have be-
 
 238 STATE OP MORALITY. 
 
 come identified with America itself. Now, whether 
 the change has been brought about by Temperance 
 Societies, or by other agents, I know not ; but I am 
 bound to believe, that an alteration in the national 
 propensity has been in some way effected, because I 
 have to record, that, in travelling through many por- 
 tions of the land, living much in public, c^c. J did not 
 encounter one individual in a state of intoxication, 
 and but one in a state of troublesome excitement. 
 Nay, I must say more. Brandy, gin, <S:c. were day 
 after day placed upon our board, ad libitum, and 
 formed an item included in what each man had at 
 any rate to pay for his repast. Spirits, even in 
 these circumstances, were rarely in use, and never 
 to a greater extent than what was prudent in quali- 
 fying the water which was used. The stage-coach- 
 men receive no gratuity from passengers, and as 
 I frequently bothered them with questions, the 
 only remnneration which J could tender was an in- 
 vitation to take a glass of grog at the bar. Upon 
 such occasions, no measure was in use. A decanter 
 of spirits was put into the coachees hand, to please 
 his palate, and never did I catch one putting in more 
 Santa Cruz than would have filled a very moderate 
 wine-glass, evincing a degree of self-restraint, which 
 I suspect few of the same class in Britain would 
 have displayed. 
 
 The subject of crime in general, and the peculia- 
 rities of the American Penal Code, have been fre- 
 quently discussed. It would be presumptuous in me 
 to hazard remarks upon so weighty a subject. Ca-
 
 ATROCIOUS PIRATE. 
 
 239 
 
 pital punishments rarely take place, though such are 
 by no means unknown. The effect created is cor- 
 responding- to the rarity of the event. Two indivi- 
 duals, a White and a Negro, suffered for piracy and 
 murder, during my visit to the States, and their story 
 was the universal topic for some weeks. Of these, 
 the white was a character of peculiar atrocity, and 
 seemed as if he had been born a child of blood. I 
 received the following account from a gentleman who 
 had his information direct from the Rev. Mr Jones, 
 of Rhode Island. When Gibbs lay under sentence 
 of death, Mr J. was surprised by receiving an earnest 
 request to visit him at New York. Although quite 
 at a loss to understand why he should have been 
 called upon, he hesitated not to take the jour- 
 ney. When left alone with the prisoner, anxious 
 inquiries were made regarding the welfare of three 
 most respectable ladies in Newport, well known to 
 Mr J. and certain circumstances disclosed which sa- 
 tisfied him at once, that the wretched criminal was 
 a favourite and only brother of these ladies, and for 
 whom the family had gone into mourning about 
 twelve years preceding. At that time a letter 
 reached Newport, purporting to be from a shipmate, 
 and stating the sudden death of their brother, by 
 fever, in the West Indies. This letter Gibbs had 
 himself fabricated, when he changed his name and 
 adopted a lawless life, that all trace of his career 
 might cease, and which henceforth became an end- 
 less scene of pillage and of blood. The fearful rule 
 by which he acted was, that dead men tell no tales ;
 
 2-JO OBLIGING DISPOSITION OF AMERICANS. 
 
 and after his confessions were carefully scrutinized, 
 and compared with mercantile records, there seems 
 no reason to doubt, that forty vessels had fallen in- 
 to his hands, and that of these twenty were scuttled, 
 and every human being, passengers and crew, mur- 
 dered in cold blood. 
 
 But to return. 
 
 A spirit of kindliness and of mutual accommoda- 
 tion may be said to prevail, in my opinion, very ge- 
 nerallv among the citizens, and opportunities of re- 
 marking such, it will be allowed, frecjuently occur to 
 the traveller. The Americans delight in locomo- 
 tion, and are perhaps on that account more than 
 usually cheery upon the road. But good-liumour, 
 and an inclination to laugh avray all difficulties and 
 annoyances, were certainly characteristic features ; 
 and in regard to an obliging disposition, I need only 
 refer to what occurred to myself at Queenston and 
 at Blackrock. In the latter case, it would be pre- 
 posterous to suppose, that the whole charity of the 
 country had been concentrated in the good fellow 
 Avho helped me in my dilemma; and where or when, 
 1 would ask, would a traveller in Britain have met 
 with a total stranger, equally independent as him- 
 self, to volunteer the transport of a huge portman- 
 teau for a considerable distance, out of pure compas- 
 sion, and look for no recompense save his grateful 
 thanks ? 
 
 As respects public affairs, I have certainly no 
 thoughts of entering upon comparisons between the 
 American and British constitutions ; and the citizens
 
 AMERICAN CONSTITUTION. 241 
 
 of botli will do well to be moderate in their mutual 
 praises or abuse. The great outline is in many re- 
 spects alike, — the diflFerence will be chiefly found in 
 the machinery which works them. If we look to 
 the President, the Senate, and House of Congress, 
 in the one, we are immediately reminded of the 
 King, the House of Lords, and the House of Com- 
 mons, in the othei'. No doubt the real circumstances 
 of each materially diflfer, but still the similitude pre- 
 vails. Both nations are free from the curse of des- 
 potism. Both enjoy the trial by jury. When the 
 American is taunted with the toleration of slavery 
 in his boasted land of freedom, aye at the very gates 
 of his Hall of Congress, whose walls may be rever- 
 berating at once to the clang of chains, and to elo- 
 quent addresses upon the heaven-born freedom of 
 man, let the Briton coolly and dispassionately re- 
 flect, how difficult it is, upon abstract principle, to 
 defend the necessity of placing upon the Throne, an 
 individual, (we may suppose,) weak and wicked to 
 excess, solely because he has been born in the royal 
 line. Our system of impressment too, however 
 needful, as naval commanders state, appears to the 
 American to be nothing short of brutal outrage. It 
 is a painful subject, and I have frequently been hurt 
 by the unfeeling levity with which it is sometimes 
 treated. It is but lately that I observed in the pages 
 of a gallant Captain, who devotes his leisure hours 
 to spinning yarns for the public, a right merry tale 
 compounded of the living agony of some unhappy 
 landsmen, who had never until that voyage been at 
 
 Q
 
 242 EQUALITY. 
 
 sea, and wlioni he aided in seizing from a merchant 
 vessel off New York, to which they were bound. 
 Two of the luunber were honest Yorkshire farmers, 
 one an unhappy schoolmaster from the laud of cakes, 
 and the others, kind-hearted Irishmen, thus com- 
 pelled to desert their Avives and families, on the eve 
 of landing, helpless strangers, on a foreign strand. 
 
 The American plumes himself upon the equality 
 maintained in his beloved laud, and the absence of 
 those aristocratic distinctions, of which we are prone 
 to boast. True it is, that, in reference to state af- 
 fairs, all citizens are equal ; but should any one infer 
 from this, that there was no virtual gradation of 
 rank, he would be grievously in error. Stars and 
 ribbons, shields and escutcheons, are indeed a-waut- 
 ing; but the family of Exciusives will be quite as 
 easily recognised in Philadelphia or in New York, 
 as in the sacred precincts of St James's. And if we 
 pry into the political circle, should a British Cabinet 
 be sometimes upset, by what we are accustomed to 
 call " Back Stairs injiucnce," there is a certain imp 
 in tlie States known by the name of " Caais," who 
 occasionally jdays strange pranks, and brings about 
 strange things, by means whicli the uiiiiiitinted in 
 vain labour to exj)laiu. \Vealtli, and what we may 
 term cii'cumstautial influence, have already made pro- 
 gress, and will continue to grow with the population 
 and prosperity of the land. I would offer no insult 
 to the American artizan ; but human nature is alike 
 in every clime, and here as elsewhere, the manufac- 
 turer who may employ some hundreds of weU
 
 VOTE BY BALLOT. 243 
 
 paid, well used and happy men, must inevitably ac- 
 quire a moral tie over their affections and esteem, 
 which, in all public questions, will most naturally and 
 fitly lead tiiem to consult his wishes and his views. 
 This remai-k applies of course, to the ordinary cur- 
 rent of affairs. Independent men, and there are 
 none more independent than American artizans, 
 will submit to no outrage upon public feeling oi" 
 public weal. 
 
 A good deal has been said in England uj)on the 
 adoption of the ballot, as a mean of securing personal 
 freedom to electors. In my opinion it is mere hum- 
 bug, and from what I could learn, has proved in the 
 States an absolute failure, as regards secrecy or con- 
 cealment. Public feeling at all times, and as regards 
 all things, in a land of freedom, must ever prove the 
 best and the surest check. And I would ask, where is 
 the landlord, or the master manufacturer in Britain, 
 who would dare to tyrannize or wantonly abuse the 
 power he may possess ? Public indignation would 
 speedily hold him up to ridicule and contempt. 
 
 The political condition of the United States be- 
 comes every day a subject of deeper interest to 
 themselves and to the world. A breaking up of the 
 Union has been broached, as an event approaching ; 
 and no doubt the interests of the Southern States, 
 may, in some respects, be considered in collision 
 with the rest. Some have even laid it down in geo- 
 graphical arrangement, and the Alleghany mountains 
 have been selected as a line of demai-cation. Such 
 speculations, however, must be considei'ed crudo 
 
 q2
 
 244 ABHORRENCE OF NEGROES. 
 
 and premature. Should such an event indeed take 
 place at a future day, I trust it will be brought 
 about in a sincere spirit of mutual concession, freed 
 from all angry and vindictive feelings ; and above all, 
 with an earnest and honest desire to perpetuate and 
 invio-orate those political institutions which have fos- 
 tered and promoted in so remarkable a manner their 
 prosperity as a nation. Come when it may, slavery 
 must form a potent ingredient in the question ; and 
 all must admit that it is surrounded with many diffi- 
 culties. There exists in America an abhorrence of 
 Neo-ro blood, sufficiently glaring even to the passing 
 stranger ; and lamentably inconsistent with those 
 sounds of freedom and independence echoed on 
 every side. I myself heard a stage-coach proprie- 
 tor formally apologize to his passengers, for having 
 permitted a place to be secured for a poor Negro 
 girl, who heard all he said, and shrunk abashed from 
 the disgust so evidently shewn upon her entrance. 
 I presvimed her to be free, as her appearance was 
 hi«>-hly respectable in regard to dress and demeanour, 
 and I in vain endeavoured to shew her some civility. 
 My fellow-travellers stared at me in dismay, and the 
 poor firl was herself so nervously distressed, that I 
 
 was glad to leave her undisturbed. Mr B , an 
 
 American barrister, stated, that last year, in the prin- 
 cipal boarding-house of Mobile, in Alabama, while 
 his own sister was an inmate, a gentleman of wealth 
 and of most agreeable manners happened to arrive, 
 and was made welcome by all. In a few days a dis- 
 covery was by some chance made, that he had a
 
 SALARIES OF PUBLIC OFFICERS. 245 
 
 dash of Negro blood in his veins, though quite im- 
 perceptible in his looks, and for that reason alone, it 
 was rudely insisted upon that the landlord should 
 give him notice to remove. These are, indeed, foul 
 blotches, and, in one form or another, the day of re- 
 tribution will arrive. 
 
 The Americans are a busy and an enterprising 
 people ; and whether in conducting public works, or 
 in transacting their own private aifairs, it is asto- 
 nishing to observe their industry and zeal. In diplo- 
 macy they must be acknowledged to excel. We do 
 not, it is true, find splendid hotels, nor extravagant 
 establishments, the refuge of some needy Peer, or 
 embarrassed Commoner ; but while John Bull pays 
 for such things, a humble individual with a very 
 moderate allowance, is dispatched from Washington, 
 and quickly obtains redress of grievances from the 
 proudest potentate or the deepest Machiavel in Eu- 
 rope. In regard to the salaries of their public offi- 
 cers, it has been thought, and probably with justice, 
 that in America they are too low. In relation to 
 Britain, I believe we may fairly state the amount t(t 
 be in dollars which with us is paid in pounds. 
 
 Very unfair descriptions have been given of public 
 life and of publicmeu in the States. Locality makes, in 
 general, the difference between falsehood and truth. 
 Take the statesmen of Washington, and you will find 
 them to differ in but a trifling degree from what is cur- 
 rent in Downing Street or Whitehall. Go into the 
 rude and newly settled regions of the west, and no doubt 
 a very different scene awaits us. But can it be call-
 
 216 UNFAIR DESCRIPTION OF THE AMERICANS. 
 
 ed lionouniMc or just to cotifoutul the two? A 
 gontlcnmu told ine, tliat hapixMiiufr to outer the 
 House of Assembly at Coliiinbus, he found the Le- 
 gislators warmly engaged in debate upon the mo- 
 mentous question, " Whether they should sit in 
 council with ha/s off" or hats on? It was finally car- 
 ried that each should do as to himself seemed best. 
 At India-nopolis, the same gentleman found three 
 Members in f/ie House fjuictly seated without coats 
 or vest, and attired in red worsted sliirts. Could 
 any honest man, however, reconcile it to his conscience 
 to quote such occurrences, as fair samples of public 
 men and of Legislative Assemblies in the States ? 
 Assuredly he could not. Time will rapidly alter the 
 complexion of affairs in these infant States, and re- 
 finement will speedily follow. I am not sure, whe- 
 ther in some cases, a love of popularity may not 
 give rise to Juibits rather uncouth and rude. Gene- 
 ral Porter, who had filled the office of Secretary of 
 War, resides at Buffalo. A gentleman told me 
 that he was introduced, by a mutual friend, to the 
 Ex-secretary, whom they met, in a waggoner's 
 frock, actually driving Iiis own team to the mill. 
 This was republican simplicity indeed ; and sup- 
 posing it to be sincere, nuist be allowed to rival 
 Cincinnatus himself. 
 
 It is a matter of regret that we should find, in 
 some rather influential quarters, a disposition to 
 sneer at the United States, and to foster a spirit of 
 rancour between two great nations, who are bound 
 by every tie to support and to cherish one another.
 
 QUARTERLY KEVIEw's BIISREPKESENTATIONS. 247 
 
 Witliout Stopping- to analyze Tariffs, or to cavil 
 about boundary lines, which are of little actual 
 worth, we may venture to assert, that, should Chris- 
 tianity and civil liberty be abandoned by the rest of 
 the world, there is reason to believe that the United 
 States and Great Britain will be I'eady to perish in 
 their support. 
 
 A certain periodical, pretty well known for its 
 high Tory principles, has seen fit to draw some ex- 
 traordinary, and, I conceive, unsound infei-ences re- 
 garding- the expenditure of the United States, which 
 deserve exposition from an abler pen than mine. * 
 
 I would pass over in contempt the sneering tone 
 ill which is noticed the annual allowance made to the 
 Chief Magistrate of the nation ; but when the writer 
 insists upon adding to the budget, what he calls, 
 " a very heavy class of disbursements, imder the 
 control of the separate state governments, and ge- 
 nerally kept out of view," I would presume to 
 inquire, whether in drawing up a schedule of the 
 expenditure of the British empire, he is disposed to 
 add a few such items, as our paupers, our jails, our 
 bridewells, our roads, canals, harbours, &c. &c., 
 being inclined to suspect that some such classification 
 will be found requisite, ere a fair parallel can be 
 drawn between the expenditure of the two nations. 
 
 Again we find this Anti-Columbian assuming 
 that the civil expenditure of the United States must 
 increase pro rato with the population, — an assump- 
 
 * See Quarterly Keview, January 1832.
 
 248 MISREPRESENTATIONS OF 
 
 tion which amounts to this, that, because my neigh- 
 bour chooses to lavish ten thousand pounds a-year 
 in supporting a family of twenty persons, ergo and 
 ex necessitate, I am precluded from maintaining my 
 household (alike in number) upon the tithe of that 
 sum. Or tiiat because America, yet in childhood, 
 conducted lier affairs with tolerable wisdom and 
 prudence, we have only to await a period of maturer 
 age, when we shall infallibly find her playing the 
 fool. I shall not enter upon the Ecclesiastical or 
 Legal Departments, as it would be tedious to discuss 
 here the statemeuts upon the branches exhibited in 
 the Quarterly, but will merely notice one essential 
 feature, -which has been omitted, viz. that, while the 
 judges have certain fixed salaries, the expense of law 
 courts is mainly borne by those only who indulge in 
 litigation, or enjoy its protection, and that the al- 
 lowance to the clergy bears a relation to the work 
 done, so widely different from what our establish- 
 ment in England displays, that the whole aspect of 
 the question is changed, and in fact had far better 
 never have been mooted by a true friend of our 
 church, except with a view to wholesome and time- 
 ous amendment. 
 
 When upon the subject of this review, I will take 
 leave to tender a word of advice to Captain Basil 
 Hall regarding his statistics. In his North Ame- 
 rican travels, he states that each citizen of Pennsyl- 
 vania is assessed in the sum of eiyht shillings and a 
 penny Sterling for public taxes or government expenses.
 
 CAPTAIN BASIL HALL. 
 
 249 
 
 Now this lie has done in jjessima Jide, after having 
 been put in possession of the true amount, which 
 does not exceed one shilling and twopence. This 
 statement, I am aware, requires explanation, and I 
 shall readily afford mine, leaving it to the Captain, 
 should he hear of the charge, to gratify the public 
 with his. When preparing his work. Captain H — — 
 applied to a most intelligent and upright individual 
 in the States to procure for him an account of the 
 sums levied and expended by different States, with 
 the view of contrasting America and Britain in re- 
 gard to the burdens laid upon the inhabitants of 
 each. In the communication made, as regards Penn- 
 sylvania, where, ex facie, a very large expenditure 
 appeared, a special memento was given to Captain 
 H., reminding him, that the main portion of this out- 
 lay was a temporary one, upon canals and railroads, 
 then constructing to the extent of 800 miles, and in 
 which 4000 men were employed. These works, it 
 was sufficiently clear, would not only prove of the 
 greatest indirect benefit, but must undoubtedly yield 
 a handsome direct revenue to the State. With all 
 this before him. Captain H. was very reasonably ex- 
 pected to mention the fact. He has not thought fit 
 to do so, but throws the whole together without one 
 word of explanation, and deduces the above sum of 
 8s. Id. as the yearly exaction from each citizen of 
 Pennsylvania towards the public expense. 
 
 Can it be a matter of surprize that conduct such 
 as this should meet with reprobation and contempt, 
 w.here the inaccuracy and unfairness are in every
 
 250 
 
 MISUKPRESENTATIONS. 
 
 man's power to detfct. I am (jiiite prepared to 
 enter more minutely into tliis matter, should there 
 be need. By withliolding the necessary explanation 
 accompanying such an important document, an 
 author may be fairly said to forfeit public confi- 
 dence and trust ; and I shall only add, that it will 
 afford me most sincere pleasure to offer Captain 
 Hall an apology, upon receiving satisfactory evi- 
 dence that I have been led into error or mistake.
 
 ( 251 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Embark in tlie George Canning for England — Account of 
 Great Sea Serpent confirmed — Arrive at liiverpool. 
 
 Upon Wednesday, June 8th, a delightful morn- 
 ing", I embarked with my fellow-passengers, eight in 
 number, on board of a steamer, by which we were 
 conveyed down the bay to the George Canning, and 
 as we had no female passengers, I got myself, by the 
 kind suggestion of Captain AUeyn, comfortably 
 stowed away in a lady's^ berth. The weather was 
 pleasant, but ratlier calm for making way. On the 
 10th we had made little more than fifty miles from 
 land. The Francis of Greenock sailed along with 
 us from New York. We soon parted company, 
 and saw no more of her till I found her, on my ar- 
 rival from Liverpool, safe in the Clyde, where she 
 had just come to anchor. 
 
 Our party consisted of mercantile gentlemen, 
 chiefly English, from South America, and sad was 
 the picture they drew of those unhappy provinces. 
 Bolivar, to me a hero of romance, I found, by their 
 unquestionable testimony, convicted of public and of 
 private vices, which rendered his memory odious and 
 vile. 
 
 Religion is there a mere conformity to supersti- 
 tious rites, and even then is generally confined to the
 
 252 STATK OF SOUTH AMKRICA. 
 
 females aiul to the people of colour. The fountain of 
 justice is utterly corrupted, and judg-meuts are noto- 
 riously sold to the highest bidder. Liberty has no 
 other meaning save a licence to do as every man 
 may list. The soldier understands it to mean a re- 
 lease from civil controul ; the people, an exemption 
 from any impost or taxes ; the priest, an absence of 
 all check upon the power of the Church. A bitter 
 enmity exists between the remnant of the native 
 Americans and the Negro race, which alone pre- 
 vents the latter from ridding themselves by violence 
 of their chains. Altogether, it was a sickening ac- 
 count of a country, blessed as they all agreed it was, 
 with a climate and a soil of the choicest description. 
 Wednesday, I5th. — We have been a week at sea, 
 and our party proves to be remarkably pleasant. 
 None have been unwell, and the good cheer is in 
 constant requisition. 
 
 " We eat, and drink, and sleep. What then ? 
 We drink, and eat, and sleep again." 
 
 I think there is a strong tendency on board of 
 ship to dream : probably the full living, the want of 
 ordinary exercise, and the motion of the vessel, may 
 all contribute. 
 
 The George Canning is a delightful vessel, and 
 comfortably appointed in all respects. Captain Al- 
 leyn is most polite and attentive to his guests, and 
 has every thing well regulated and in good order. 
 
 Saturday 18th. — We crossed part of the Great 
 Bank to-day, and the weather is foggy and cold. 
 The thermometer is 30° below what we left it at
 
 SEA SERPENT. 253 
 
 New York. It was then 92°, and to-day 42°. When 
 upon the Banks there is a difference of 15° or 20° 
 below the temperature when out of soundings. We 
 have had it so low as 40°, and Captain Alleyn sus- 
 pects the vicinity of ice-bergs. When the water in- 
 dicates a temperature below 40°, it becomes neces- 
 sary to look out sharply for ice. 
 
 Friday, 24th. — We have now a fine south-west 
 wind, and our ship is cutting her way in gallant 
 style. 243 miles, by the log, in the last twenty- 
 four hours. Myriads of molluscse are passing us 
 every moment, and we have been never weary in 
 admiring the shoals of small porpoises, contending, 
 as it were, in speed with the vessel. They shoot, 
 like racers, from stern to stem, and then renew their 
 course over and over again ; the prismatic colours on 
 their sides glistening in endless variety and beauty. 
 Wlio can tell the wonders of the mighty deep ? 
 Of these, one had always impressed my mind as a 
 fiction. When asking Captain Alleyn, in a jocular 
 manner, one day, if he had ever met with any man, 
 who pretended to have seen the Sea-Serpent, how 
 great was my surprise to have his serious reply, 
 " Why, sir, I have seen it myself, and all my crew." 
 He then stated, that, in January 1820, he was re- 
 turning from Batavia, and was running, with a light 
 air, along the shore of Long Island, when he saw, 
 in broad day, an object on the surface of the sea, 
 about a mile from the ship, which at first he sup- 
 posed to be a whale. On taking the glass, however, 
 he at once discovered it to be totally difl:*erent. The
 
 254 SEA SERPENT. 
 
 head lay flat, with a snout, ratlier under the surface 
 of the water; tlie hack was arched, and the knobs of 
 the vertebra; quite distinct, the tail was long- and ta- 
 pering ; the end about three feet broad ; and the po- 
 sition horizontal. It attracted at once the notice of 
 every man as he came on deck; and Captain Alleyn, 
 as well as his crew, had all been accustomed to laugh 
 at the story of the serpent. For a full half hour 
 they contemplated the monster; and, com])uting its 
 length from the land beyond it, all agreed that it 
 could not be less than the length of the vessel, which 
 was 100 feet. As they neared it, the animal g'ot 
 into motion, first towards the shore, and then, ma- 
 king an immense sweep, and leaving a wake, as Cap- 
 tain Alleyn said, like a frigate, it disappeared, leav- 
 ing the water in a state of commotion. 
 
 I find also that the serpent was seen by the packet 
 ship Silas Richards, about five years ago, off Nan- 
 tucket ; and Mr Orr, one of our passengers, inform- 
 ed me, that an acquaintance of his was on board, a 
 man who was particularly incredulous of wonders, 
 but who nuidily concurred in the certificate signed 
 upon the subject. Our frequent calms led us to con- 
 verse upon the application of steam to the Atlantic. 
 Captain Alleyn does not consider it likely to succeed. 
 It is in a dead calm alone that they would be effec- 
 tive, as they could not stem the Atlantic to much 
 purpose (in his opinion) against a head wind. 
 The paddles, and machinery, and fuel, would oc- 
 cupy so much of the mercantile stowage, that the 
 freight would depend too exclusively upon passen-
 
 ARRIVAL AT LIVERPOOL. 255 
 
 gers, wlio, again, would be shy of committing- them- 
 selves for such a voyage to the hazards of steam and 
 of fire. It has been ascertained, however, that a 
 steam-vessel may navigate the Atlantic. The late 
 Emperor Alexander having proclaimed a munificent 
 recompense to the first that should reach St Peters- 
 burgh, the citizens of Savannah, N. America, ap- 
 peared to claim the reward. From some unexplained 
 reason, however, it was not paid, and the steamer 
 returned in safety to her native shores, 
 
 Friday, July \st. — This is our twenty-third day, 
 and at 12 noon we descried the Irish coast. Captain 
 Alleyn ran from Sandy Hook to Cape Clear, in 
 April 1830, in thirteen days. The New York made 
 the whole passage to Liverpool in fifteen days and 
 six hours. Upon an average of several years, it has 
 been ascertained, pretty correctly, that the passage 
 from Liverpool may be taken at thirty-five days, 
 and from New York at twenty-three and some hours. 
 We did not come to anchor in the Mersey until the 
 morning of the 4th, being twenty-six days of as 
 pleasant navigation as any man could have desired. 
 It may be presumed that I made but a short sojourn 
 in Liverpool. I sailed in the steamer for Glasgow 
 on the same evening, and reached home upon the 
 6th, in safety and comfort. Perhaps it may be use- 
 ful to mention that my whole actual outlay was 
 £145, of which about £10 were expended upon 
 books and apparel. 
 
 I have only to add a sentence of regret upon the
 
 256 LOSS OF THE GEORGE CANNING. 
 
 fate of the poor George Canning. On the second 
 trip after the one which brouglit me home, this 
 splendid vessel was totally wrecked upon the Ame- 
 rican coast. The accident arose from fog ; and 
 Captain Alleyn Avas in the act of wearing the ship 
 when she struck. Sure I am that his anxiety and 
 distress must have been great, but it would be no 
 small consolation to him, that there was no loss of 
 life, and that his passengers, with their luggage, 
 were landed in safety.
 
 ( 257 ) 
 
 PART II. 
 
 [Having now brought to a conclusion my Notes, or 
 Journal, I will submit a Statistical Communication, 
 addressed to tbe Directors of the Highland Society, 
 soon after my return to Scotland, in the hope that, 
 as it is rather more special and minute, it may 
 prove, perhaps, of some small use and advantage to 
 intending emigrants.] 
 
 In reference to a resolution of the Directors, which 
 they did me the honour of transmitting, through 
 their Secretary, upon the eve of my departure for 
 America, I felt it my duty to furnish the following 
 statement regarding the provinces of Upper and 
 Lower Canada, with such portions of the United 
 States as came under my personal observation, or 
 regarding which I acquired information from au- 
 thentic sources during my excui'sion. 
 
 R
 
 ( '258 ) 
 
 Witlioiit reference to the precise route which 1 fol- 
 lowed, ray observations were directed, 
 1st, To Lower Canada; 
 2d, To Upper Canada ; 
 3d, To the United States. 
 In treating of these, my leading object has been 
 to ascertain their respective advantages or disadvan- 
 tages to emigrants from Britain.
 
 ( 259 ) 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Lower Canada — Climate — Soil — Agriculture — Markets—^ 
 Upper Canada — Lumber- trade — Bay of Quinte — Value 
 of Land — York — Canada Company. 
 
 Lower Canada lies between 43° and 52° N. Lat., 
 and 64° and 82° W. Long. 
 
 To those ig-norant of the geographical position, 
 there is something in the term Lower strongly indi- 
 cative of a superiority in climate, which is by no 
 means borne out by actual circumstances. Winter, 
 in the Lower Province, wears a more severe and 
 protracted form than it does on the great table-land 
 above. Many decisive facts in confirmation of this 
 might be adduced. I shall only mention, that wheat 
 cannot here withstand the severity of winter, re- 
 quiring to be sown in spring, and occasioning there- 
 by both loss and inconvenience to the farmer in wet 
 and late seasons ; while quails, or Virginian par- 
 tridges, it may be observed, which abound in the 
 Upper, are totally unknown in the Lower Province. 
 
 The soil is generally a fertile clay, which has 
 hardly been yet brought, in any instance, to the test 
 of what it may produce. It is generally occupied in 
 small possessions, which continue, with the exception 
 
 r2
 
 260 LOWER CANADA. 
 
 of some large scignories and church-lands, to fritter 
 more and more away, from the absence of a check 
 in the law of primogeniture, and a want of enter- 
 prize in the people, which might lead them to coun- 
 teract this effect, by entering on new land. The 
 ])opulation is chiefly French, and the religion Roman 
 Catholic. The hahitons arc industrious, frugal, and 
 contented ; but their condition, to say the least, is 
 almost stationary, and the lial)its or practices of their 
 fathers are far too scrupulously revered. In person 
 they are rather good-looking, especially the men ; 
 and to view them, clothed in their homespun drug- 
 get frocks, with a physiognomy of absolute content, 
 peering from imder the large hood so well fitted for 
 a Canadian winter, is to obtain an assurance of un- 
 questionable happiness and comfort. The numerous 
 orchards and abundance of fruit, evince what steady 
 and strong heat will produce, even with a winter of 
 the most intense cold ; and while this supply contri- 
 butes in a considerable measure to the wealth of the 
 people, it adds in no small degree, with the aid of 
 the sugar maple, to the enjoyments of a board in all 
 respects plenteously furnished. The fine island of 
 Montreal is covered with orchards, and in every quar- 
 ter they present themselves in rich luxuriance. 
 
 Notwithstanding, however, ()f these, and the many 
 advantages which approximation to the sea-coast 
 holds out, I should certainly not consider Lower 
 Canada likely to realize the hopes of British settlers. 
 A certain degree of political or national jealousy on 
 the part of the French population, Mdiich regards
 
 AGRICULTURE. 261 
 
 Avitli suspicion and distrust the increase of British 
 emigrants, cannot fail to harass and annoy. 
 
 To many, tlie difference of religion, and scarcity 
 of Protestant churches, will prove a drawback. To 
 many more the preponderance of the French lan- 
 guage, laws, and manners, will create a serious ob- 
 stacle. Nor am I aware of any existing circum- 
 stances, in the Lower Province, which can be said 
 to counterbalance these objections. 
 
 It is no doubt true, that many individual instances 
 of prosperity are to be met with in Lower Canada, 
 among agricultural settlers from Britain and Ireland ; 
 but these must be viewed as exceptions, and not fol- 
 lowed as a rule. 
 
 Even the land-measure will somewhat tend to em- 
 barrass a stranger, as it is the arpent (about one- 
 fifth less than the English acre) which is in use, and 
 the tenure and titles of his property will still more 
 perplex him. I had an opportunity of seeing and 
 conversing with several British emigrants, who 
 either occupy or possess farms in Lower Canada, 
 and the uniform conclusion to which all of them 
 came, was an advice to look at the Upper Province, 
 before I formed an opinion upon the eligibility of a 
 settlement. I am quite aware that several of these 
 individuals are prospering in a measure, which might 
 possibly be curtailed, if too many farmers of a like 
 stamp should become located beside them ; but I am 
 equally satisfied that no such jealousy influenced the 
 advice I received, and that the established convic- 
 tion of all, who are experimentally acquainted with
 
 262 LOWER CANADA. 
 
 Canad.n, is in favour of the Upper Province, as a set- 
 tlement for British agriculturists. I say agricultu- 
 rists, because those emigrants who liave been accxis- 
 tomed to live partly by fishing', will certainly succeed 
 best in the maritime portion of our North American 
 possessions. 
 
 Emigrants who have obtained land near Quebec or 
 Montreal, and who are industrious and active, profit, 
 of course, very handsomely by the vicinity of these 
 cities. 
 
 Dairy produce brings in excellent returns, and 
 every thing finds a market ; and although mere lo- 
 cality cannot avail so much as formerly, when steam- 
 navigation was unknown, still great advantages re- 
 main to the occupier of land near large to\\iis. It 
 is to be remarked, too, that the greater supply of 
 farm-produce, occasioned by the introduction of 
 steam-boats, has materially increased the consump- 
 tion, and has thereby compensated to the farmer the 
 fall in price, which necessarily followed. — Fresh 
 butter, which sold, in 1817, for Is. 6d. per pound in 
 Montreal, may now be had for 6d. In summer it is 
 a perishable article, and must be sold when it comes 
 to market. But hay, straw, potatoes, &c. and the 
 very soil itself, are becoming, in the vicinity of ]Mon- 
 treal, what an Angus farmer termed to me, " mis- 
 chievously dear ;' and those who are in possession of 
 farms in that vicinity will reap an abundant harvest. 
 — My Angus friend, who seemed to be in the enjoy- 
 ment of very easy circumstances, affords a proof, 
 among hundreds, of what an industrious and steady
 
 AGRieUIiTURE. 263 
 
 man may do for himself in Canada. He came out 
 in 1817, was wrecked in the Gulf of St Lawrence, 
 suffered many hardships, and finally landed at Mont- 
 real, devoid of every resoui'ce, save his own hands 
 and g'ood spirits. He soon found employment, and 
 in due time took a lease of a farm, which he finds 
 to succeed extremely well. His wheat and potatoes, 
 he says, are excellent ; oats, inferior. He cultivates 
 green crops, taking mangel wurzel instead of tur- 
 nips, which suflFer from the fly. He uses horses in 
 preference to oxen; has iron-ploughs, and follows 
 what he called a sor< of rotation, — 1st, Wheat; 2d, 
 Green crop; 3d, Clover; 4th, Timothy for hay ; and, 
 5th, Pasture. 
 
 Several farms are at this time to let in this quar- 
 ter. The rent expected is 10s. or 12s. per acre. 
 
 The Canadian farmers pursue the old Scottish 
 practice of infield and outfield, taking crop after 
 crop of grain from their fields, until nothing but 
 weeds remain, and looking to Nature for that reno- 
 vation which their own industry ought to have ef- 
 fected. 
 
 It may appear almost incredible, but I was assur- 
 ed of the fact, that it was by no means unusual, as 
 winter occupation among the habitans, to drive out 
 dung from their farm-yards and deposit it upon the 
 glassy surface of the St Lawrence, there to await the 
 breaking up in spring, as a riddance from what they 
 consider a worthless incumbrance. 
 
 In tracing a route upwards from Montreal, the eve 
 of an emigrant is speedily arrested by the junction
 
 264 
 
 LOWER CANADA. 
 
 of the Uttawas, or Grand River, falling- into the St 
 Lawrence. I did not visit the settlements of this 
 district, and do not therefore speak of them from 
 personal observation ; but they are well known to 
 be valuable, extensive, and increasing'. The Utta- 
 was has, of late years, attracted the notice of Go- 
 vernment, as a safe route for troops and stores to 
 the Upper Province, in the event of war with the 
 United States. Fn surveying its banks, and applying 
 its course to this purpose, extensive tracts of fine 
 land have been located, and several very promising 
 settlements have been established. Of tliese, I may 
 notice Perth, Richmond, and Lanark, the two for- 
 mer chiefly coni[)osed of retired officers and reduced 
 soldiers; the latter, of families from the manufactur- 
 ing districts in the west of Scotland, who came out 
 in 1820, and all, I believe, as communities, doing 
 well. All of these were assisted and fostered by 
 Govermnent. A military road communicates be- 
 tween Uttawas and Kingston, upon Lake Ontario, 
 a distance of 240 miles. The Rideau Canal passes 
 through a part of the country between this line of 
 road and the St Lawrence. 
 
 The soil of this part of Canada is good ; but the 
 country is flat, the lakes shallow, and the streams 
 frequently sluggish, which jnust be necessarily ac- 
 companied, for a time, with fever and ague to a 
 greater extent than more airy and better watered si- 
 tuations present. There can be no doubt, however, 
 that the settlements already formed, and to be form- 
 ed, in this quarter, will prosper. Government has
 
 UPPER CANADA. 
 
 265 
 
 done much for tbein by public works, which can 
 Scarce fail to benefit the country, whether they do 
 or do not effect the objects for which they were plan- 
 ned ; and the steam communication upon the Uttawas 
 with Montreal is already in operation. 
 
 Upper Canada is situate between 42° and 52° N. 
 Lat., and between 73" 30' W. Long., and, indeed, 
 indefinite bounds to the west. 
 
 Returning to the St Lawrence, we enter the Up- 
 per Province, the Uttawas here forming tlie bound- 
 ary line. As we ascend the river, we find nume- 
 rous settlers, and thousands of acres well adapted 
 for the farmer. One of the first settlements we 
 meet with is the Glengarry district, an extensive 
 tract of good land, enjoying the advantages of water 
 carriage. The language, the customs, the native 
 courage of their Celtic sires, still distinguish the clan, 
 though, at the same time, we are afraid, accompa- 
 nied by some of those less profitable traits which 
 stamp the Highlander as more at home in wielding 
 the claymoi'e, or extracting the mountain-dew, than 
 in guiding the ploughshare to slow but certain re- 
 sults. The farms are but indiiferently improved, 
 considering the advantages they have enjoyed ; and 
 much valuable time is expended in the depths of the 
 forest, in a demi-savage life, cutting and preparing 
 timber for the lumber merchant, which, if steadily 
 devoted to the cultivation of the land, would certain- 
 ly be attended with infinitely greater benefit, both 
 in a physical and moral point of view.
 
 266 
 
 LOWER CANADA. 
 
 Very conflicting opinions exist in Canada regard- 
 ing the Inmher-trade, and the subject was frequent- 
 ly discussed at tliis period, from the hite proposal of 
 ministers to lower the duties upon Baltic timber. 
 It is certain that a large circulation is occasioned by 
 the trade, perhaps a million Sterling, in one way or 
 other, and that it employs, during winter, many 
 who may gain perhaps £ 20 for their winter labour, 
 when nothing else could be done. It benefits the 
 farmer too, by bringing a market for produce to his 
 door. So far, all looks well ; but there is no doubt, 
 that those engaged in preparing timber for this 
 trade, being exposed to many hardships, acquire 
 loose and debauched habits, which generally demo- 
 ralize ; and that, in fact, no steady industrious cha- 
 racters are now willing to engage in it. In regard 
 to the merchant, I have reason to believe that the 
 lumber-trade is by no means profitable, and that 
 many merchants are anxious to back out as soon as 
 they can. Tiiere can be no doubt, in any case, that 
 if the trade is to be extinguished, it must be done in 
 a gradual manner, and that any alteration of duties 
 which would suddenly annihilate it, must be follow- 
 ed by very painful and hazardous consequences to 
 the colony. 
 
 To go minutely into the statistics of even the 
 banks of the river, would far exceed the limits to 
 which I nnist necessarily restrict myself. Suffice it 
 to say, that a constant succession of eligible situa- 
 tions present themselves for estates and farms. I 
 was much pleased with the Matilda district, and con-
 
 STATISTICS. 267 
 
 sider it capable of great improvement. The soil is 
 a fine mellow sandy loam, sometimes perhaps rather 
 light, but admirably adapted for turnip husbandry 
 and fine woolled sheep, with numerous beautiful si- 
 tuations for a residence, the noble St Lawrence ever 
 forming a prominent feature, its surface varied by 
 lovely wooded islands, similar to those we so justly 
 admire on many of our British lakes. In approach- 
 ing Kingston, or the east end of Lake Ontario, the 
 river Guananogue falls into the St Lawrence, and, 
 at its mouth, is the establishment of Messrs M'Do- 
 nell, two brothers who came about eight years ago to 
 the colony, and who, by steady enterprize, without 
 original capital, have realized considerable wealth, 
 while, along with it, they have secured the respect 
 and esteem of all who know them. They have here, 
 what is called in America, a valuable water privilege 
 or fall, and have erected flour and saw-mills to a 
 large extent. Last season they sent down to Mont- 
 real 24,000 barrels of flour ; and a friend of mine 
 who was their agent, informed me that one of the 
 brothers having resolved upon becoming their own 
 agent in Montreal, it would be a loss of some hun- 
 dreds a year to his house in commission. They 
 have a very clever cooperage worked by water, si- 
 milar to the steam cooperage at Glasgow, and the 
 articles turned out are uncommonly reasonable, sub- 
 stantial, and neat. I regretted much not having it 
 in my power to form an acquaintance with these spi- 
 rited colonists, more especially as they farm likewise 
 to a large extent. The farm at Guananogue extends
 
 268 
 
 UPPEK CANADA. 
 
 to 1200 acres, and the mansion-house and barns are 
 commodious and handsome. 
 
 Having- received very encouraging accounts at 
 Kingston, of the country along the Bay of Quinte, a 
 deep inlet of Lake Ontario, formed by a peninsula 
 called Prince Edward's Island, I made an excursion 
 into that district. The scenery \vas pleasing, in many 
 places fine; and settlements are formed on every hand. 
 The soil is partly clay, partly loam and sand, suffi- 
 ciently rich, in some instances, to yield fifteen crops 
 of good wheat, with impunity, in a period of twenty 
 years. Granite, limestone, and schistus, or clay- 
 slate, are successively met M-itli. AV'herever a stream 
 or creek of any importance falls into the lake, there 
 we find a mill-seat and a village growing up, the 
 embryo, in many cases, of considerable towns. 
 
 To the patriot or philanthropist, it is highly grati- 
 fying to remark, how the wants of the farmer and 
 the interests of the trader or mechanic co-operate in 
 the rapid progress of general improvement and civi- 
 lization. Holywell, Sophiaburgh, and Belleville, are 
 all thriving villages of this description ; and many 
 individuals are to be met with in each, who, from 
 the humble situation of merchants' clerks, &c. are 
 rapidly acquiring independence. The last is the 
 county town of Hastings, which has already three 
 churches, a court-house, and projected jail ; a valua- 
 ble mill-power, and fine situation for houses ; the 
 high road from York to Kingston passes through 
 it, and, altogether, it seems destined to become a 
 place of some note. I was really astonished at the
 
 PRICE OF LAND. 269 
 
 frequent calls which the steam-boat made for pro- 
 duce, and, ere we reached Kingston, our deck was 
 absolutely heaped with flour-barrels. 
 
 I have said nothing hitherto of the price or value 
 of land in Canada, and it is extremely difficult, in the 
 settled parts of either province, to ascei'tain any thing 
 like a fair average rate. 
 
 Prices are perpetually fluctuating, and must be re- 
 gulated by the circumstances of the seller ; one man 
 being willing to sell his farm for five dollars an acre, 
 under a strong desire to commence anew upon a forest 
 tract, or labouring under necessity ; while his next 
 neighbour may probably refuse to part with similar 
 land for less than ten or twelve dollars per acre. 
 Of this, however, there is no doubt, that very eligi- 
 ble and advantageous purchases may, at all times, be 
 made by a prudent capitalist, and that land is every 
 year increasing in value, wherever it is desirable to 
 possess it. Great bargains are sometimes obtained 
 at public sales, by warrant of the sherifi^, for pay- 
 ment of land-taxes. Land thus sold is subject, for a 
 certain short period, to be redeemed by the indivi- 
 dual, or his heirs, who originally obtained the grant ; 
 but, as it seldom exceeds, at a sheriff'-sale, 6d. or 7d. 
 per acre, it is well worthy of a trial. 
 
 Steam navigation may be said to have been creat- 
 ed for America, and it is difficult to estimate the ad- 
 vances which the States and the Canadas will soon 
 make under its influence. To emigrants it not on- 
 ly aff^ords a safe, cheap, and agreeable conveyance ; 
 but, from the large concourse of passengers, a fund
 
 270 UPPER CANADA. 
 
 of valuable local inforniatioii may alw'ays be pro- 
 cured, and useful acquaintances formed ; wbile it is 
 impossible to overlook tlie silent but important ef- 
 fects, in clearing the forest, which the consumption 
 of fuel on board the steam-boats is destined to ac- 
 complish. Perhaps it is not fanciful to assert, that 
 the woods of America are now actually clearing by 
 means of steam. 
 
 York, the capital of Upper Canada, and seat of go- 
 vernment, is a very desirable station for a settler to 
 choose as head-quarters, in looking about for a pur- 
 chase. He is sure, at this place, to meet with nume- 
 rous offers of farms, regarding which he will do 
 well to act with caution ; and he will be able to in- 
 spect the plans of public lands in the government 
 land-office, under the superintendence of Mr P. Ro- 
 binson, a gentleman able and willing to afford him 
 every fiicility. 
 
 The rich and heavi/ land of Upper Canada is not to 
 be found, in general, upon the immediate banks of 
 the lakes and rivers. It lies, for the most part, 
 from twelve to twenty miles back, and thus com- 
 pensates the enterprizing settler for plunging into 
 the forest. Government have still, I believe, about 
 four millions and a half of acres to dispose of, be- 
 sides seven or eight millions more, beyond the lines 
 of what has been surveyed. No land is now grant- 
 ed to individuals without payment, the price vary- 
 ing according to situation and quality, and subject 
 to the regulation of clearing and fencing five acres 
 within two years, erecting a house 16 feet by 20, 
 and also clearing half of the road in front.
 
 CANADA COMPANV. 271 
 
 Another land-office, highly interesting- to emi- 
 grants, is likewise to be found in York. It is here 
 that the Cominissioners of the Canada Company re- 
 side, and have their principal establishment. This 
 company, as is well known, purchased from govern- 
 ment 2^ millions of acres in the Upper Province, 
 with the view of disposing of it in lots to settlei's, at 
 an advanced price. The company is yet too much 
 in its infancy to speculate upon results ; but no rea- 
 sonable doubt can be entertained, that it must ope- 
 rate favourably in procuring settlers. 
 
 A great progress has been made in the formation 
 of roads, bridges, mills, &c., which government 
 would not, and private individuals could not, have 
 effected in the short period which has elapsed since 
 the establishment of the company ; and, although a 
 feeling inimical to their measures shewed itself in 
 some quarters, I confess myself unable to discover, 
 for that jealousy, any reasonable cause. I had very 
 full discussions with the Commissioners and agents, 
 from which, as well as from their published pro- 
 posals, I feel satisfied that emigrants of every class 
 may commit themselves to the Canada Company, in 
 perfect assurance of experiencing the most kind, ho- 
 nourable, and liberal treatment. Circumstances de- 
 pendent upon the state of a new country, may delay 
 the execution of plans beyond the promised period; 
 but there can be no doubt of the company fulfilling 
 all their engagements as speedily as possible. The 
 prices of land vary from 7s. 6d. to 15s. per acre. I 
 was much impressed with a favourable opinion of
 
 272 UPPER CANADA. 
 
 the Great Union tract, from the fact that many 
 steady Dutch settlers, in the possession of old pro- 
 ductive farms near York, were, at the period of my 
 visit, disposing of their property and removing' to 
 Goderich, — a change which tlie calculating J)utcli- 
 man would not have rashly adopted, without pretty 
 reasonable prospects of bettering himself to a consi- 
 derable Jimount. " The township of Goderich con- 
 tains about 400 inhabitants already ; and several 
 Dutch families from the neighbourhood of York, 
 have sold, or are endeavouring to sell, their (culti- 
 vated and valuable farms, and liave purchased lands 
 from tlie company in the Ilnron Tract. About 6000 
 acres have been sold them in the neighbourhood of 
 Goderich within the last six months. In Guelph, a 
 very valuable mill has lately been erected, and one 
 in Goderich is now in progress." 
 
 In a young and thinly-settled country such as Ca- 
 nada, every accession of an industrious family or in- 
 dividual tends to the welfare of all ; and it is there- 
 fore natural to suppose, that such a corporation as 
 the Canada Company woidd be fully a«ake to this 
 principle. We find, accordingly, that in forming ar- 
 rangements for forwarding emigrants to their own 
 lands, they b'lve offered very favourable proposals to 
 emigrants at large. Tlmy state, that " all persons 
 depositing L. 20 with the Canada Company's agents 
 in Quebec or Montreal, will be forwarded to the 
 head of Lake Ontario by steam-boats, free of ex- 
 pense, and have liberty to select land in any part of 
 the province, at the current price charged by the
 
 CANADA COMPANY. 273 
 
 company, when the whole amount of their deposit 
 will be placed to their credit on account of their 
 land. But, should they prefer pui'chasing from in- 
 dividuals and not the company, then the expense of 
 their conveyance will be deducted from the amount 
 deposited, and the balance paid over to them. Per- 
 sons depositing- a sum equal to their conveyance, 
 with their families and luggage, from Quebec to 
 the head of the lake, may avail themselves of the 
 company's contracts with the forwarders ; and should 
 they, within three months after ari-ival, select land 
 in Guelph, and pay one-fifth of the purchase-money, 
 then the amount of their deposit in Quebec will also 
 be placed to their credit, and they, their families, 
 &c. be thus conveyed fi-om Quebec free of expense."
 
 274 UPPER CANADA. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Head of Lake Ontario — Toronto district — Guelph Township 
 
 of Waterloo — of Gait — of Paris — Prices of Farm produce. 
 
 It may perhaps be interesting- to g-ive a few agri- 
 cultural notes of an excursion from York, by tlie bead 
 of Lake Ontario, Toronto, VYaterloo, Dumfries, Ha- 
 milton, &c. : but before leaving the capital, I must, 
 with pleasure, add my humble testimony to the ener- 
 gy, good sense, and patriotism of Sir John Colborne, 
 in his situation as Governor of Upper Canada. Of 
 liis well-known military talents, I am no judge ; but 
 of the soundness of his policy in regard to emigra- 
 tion, allotment of public lands, encouragement of 
 agriculture, and improvement of the general consti- 
 tution of society, I am enabled to speak with un- 
 qualified praise. The experiments hitherto made by 
 government hfive been, in Sir John's opinion, defec- 
 tive in system and concentration. 
 
 Had the establishment of government emigrants 
 been kept more together, this very circumstance 
 wonld have greatly toiuled to general advancement. 
 At present tliey form only a few oases in the desert, 
 and a long period must necessarily elapse, ere the 
 intervals are even in some degree filled up. 
 
 In conversing with Sir John, I ventured to sug- 
 gest that something was required on the part of go-
 
 EMIGRANTS. 275 
 
 vemment, in making preparation for the thousands 
 of emigrants who are pouring into Canada every sea- 
 son, and who suffer heavy losses, both in time and 
 means, from the want of some previous arrangement. 
 It seemed to me, that the agent for emigrants ought 
 to be a gentleman not engaged in trade, but one of 
 active habits, acquainted with rural affairs, and with 
 the agricultural classes, who might be ready at all 
 times to point out land or labour to emigrants, ac- 
 cording to their ability and means. Without going 
 into minute details. Sir John assured me that he felt 
 the want of such an arrangement much, and that a 
 great deal of good might be effected by it, and a great 
 deal of government land sold, and that he had repre- 
 sented the matter to the colonial office at home. 
 
 Emigrants unable or unwilling to purchase, will 
 have little difficulty in providing themselves with a 
 farm to rent, either for money or on shares, wliich 
 means half the clear produce as rent. I was told by 
 a gentleman of a friend of his, who was very com- 
 fortably settled in this way near York, upon a farm 
 of 200 acres. Eighty acres are cleared, the remain- 
 der in wood pasture. He pays only £25 of rent, 
 and clears £ 200 per annum, besides keeping his fa- 
 mily. 
 
 . To show how land is advancing in value, this 
 farm, a few years ago, might have been purchased 
 for £200, but is, of course, worth a great deal more 
 now. Market gardening, and rearing good live 
 stock, are two branches that will pay well in this 
 quarter. 
 
 s 2
 
 27fi UPPER CANADA. 
 
 I left York, on Wednesday May Uth, in the 
 stage, for Hamilton, at the head of Bnrlington Bay, 
 it being my intention to stop at night, and diverge 
 next day into the woods. The roads were yet un- 
 repaired for the season, and we travelled in an open 
 waggon, the day line, and for the first time some- 
 what sultry. It was interesting to observe the sud- 
 den transition from the streets of York to the so- 
 lemn stillness of the forest, as, I think, we could not 
 liave proceeded above two or three miles, ere we 
 were immersed in all the wild magnificence of a ce- 
 dar swamp, and hemmed in by towering pines and 
 hemlocks on every side. A cedar stoamp forms an 
 exception to a general rule, as it enjoys pure water, 
 and secures health to its inhabitants, which is also 
 the case where the hemlock, fir, and spruce, abound. 
 The land, in such situations, is not of the richest 
 quality, sometimes sandy and poor, and the absence 
 of fever and ague would seem to be granted in com- 
 pensation for diminished returns. 
 
 Our route lay through Toronto district, and I had 
 the gratification of observing cultivation in every 
 stage of its progress. There was the rude s/ia/it// 
 or log-hut, its owner wielding the axe against the 
 stately vegetable columns around him, or employed 
 in reducing them to ashes, while some were left 
 standing to blacken with the flames, or doomed to a 
 more protracted fate under the operation of girdliriff, 
 by which the bark is cut round the stem, and life 
 destroyed. A little fsirther on we pass an older 
 farm. The mansion and offices commodious and
 
 TORONTO DISTRICT. 277 
 
 neat, rich orchards loaded with blossom, fine wheat 
 and pasture or meadow-land, healthy looking- chil- 
 dren at every door, with pigs and poultry in abun- 
 dance. As we passed each farmer's open door, we 
 saw groups of old and young seated at their even- 
 ing meal, neat, clean, and comfortably clad. In ge- 
 neral, Canadians and Americans are deficient in what 
 we call dressing up their doors ; they are, in fact, so 
 much engaged in heavier and more important work, 
 that the period for training roses and honeysuckles 
 has not yet arrived. We passed, however, one small 
 property this evening, belonging to a Mr Adams, 
 and laid out as a nursery (smile not at a nursery in 
 America), filled with peach, apple, and pear trees, 
 flowering shrubs, &c., and which, by its neat arrange- 
 ment and excellent order, forms at once a contrast 
 and an example to its neighbours. We encountered 
 some very steep hills and some hazardous road, espe- 
 cially ascending and descending the banks of two 
 considerable creeks or rivers falling into Ontario. 
 Large sums have been expended in levelling, &c. 
 apparently with but indiflFerent judgment or success. 
 I reached Summer's tavern, 35 miles from York, 
 about eight, and found a most obliging host, with 
 comfortable accommodation. 
 
 It being my intention next day to visit the city of 
 Guelph, founded by Mr Gait, when he acted as com- 
 missioner for the Canada Company, my first inquiry 
 was for saddle-horses and a guide. These were pro- 
 cured by my landlord, and at seven next morning I 
 started, the distance to Guelph being called twenty-
 
 278 UPPKR CANADA. 
 
 six miles. I sliall not in thin place detail tlie perils 
 of the way, the horrors of rotten corduroy roads, ce- 
 dar swamps, tumdfalls, &c., with the additional com- 
 forts of a misty rain, two roads diverg-ing' in a re- 
 mote part of the forest, and the satisfaction of find- 
 ing, upon an appeal to my guide, that he had never 
 happened to he at Guel]>h before ; suffice it, that I 
 reached my destination about three o'clock, after a 
 most floundering- journey. The road is through the 
 finest forest scenery I had yet seen, and clearings 
 were going forward in various places, and in every 
 state of progress. I could not but admire the luxu- 
 riance and healthy appearance of the wheat and clo- 
 ver. The whole tract is upon limestone, and, in 
 some places, the road passes over ridges of it abso- 
 lutely inexhaustible. The cattle and pigs are but 
 very indifferent. The state of the road may be, in 
 some measure, estimated from a party which I pass- 
 ed, consisting of three men and six oxen, that had 
 been three days absent from home, which they would 
 only reach that day, drawing a load under which u 
 donkey would have trotted upon any British turn- 
 pike, and the whole extent of the journey not ex- 
 ceeding twenty miles. Gu('l])h is situated in the 
 Gore district, about eighty miles from York, and 
 has been laid out upon an extensive scale. A fine 
 stream flows past the town, and a large grist-mill 
 is at M'ork upon it. A good deal of land has been 
 located in the neighbourhctod, and the town may ul- 
 timately prosper. At present it wears a stagnant 
 appearance, and conveys somewhat the idea of the
 
 TOWN OF GUELPH. 279 
 
 cart preceding the horse. When farms become nume- 
 rous, and a mill is erected in a convenient situation, 
 a town soon grows up ; but here the town has been 
 hurried forward, in the hope of settling the land. 
 A vast deal of capital has been expended upon roads, 
 &c., which must have so far benefited labourers, and 
 tended, in some measure, to enable them to pur- 
 chase lots ; but, at present, a very desolate com- 
 plexion marks Guelph, as a city which may be very 
 thankful to maintain its gTound, and escape deser- 
 tion. The price of company land is here about 15s. 
 per acre, of good quality; and, I believe, from the 
 unsteady character of some of the early settlers, 
 good purchases of farms partially cleared are fre- 
 quently to be had. Guelph stands upon a fine na- 
 tural platform, with the river flowing round it. A 
 good bridge was nearly finished when I was there, 
 and an extensive line of road is intended to con- 
 nect this with the Huron settlement at Goderich. 
 
 I spent the evening in company with Mr Prior, 
 the acting manager, who has many arduous duties 
 to perform. We conversed, of course, much upon 
 the subject of emigration. His opinion coincides 
 with the general conviction, that no steady indus- 
 trious man can fail to prosper in Canada, according 
 to his means. The Commissioners are now greatly 
 more circumspect in the character of settlers than 
 was the case at first ; and it is a leading object to 
 obtain sober, moral, correct men, that a good neigh- 
 bourhood may be every where secured. This must,
 
 280 UPPEU CANADA. 
 
 of course, impose a painful and difficult task upon tlie 
 agents, retjuiring- much firmness and discretion. 
 
 Mr Prior told me, that, durin^• a temporary al>- 
 seuce, a party of a bad stamp had located themselves 
 at Godei'ich. Having satisfied himself of their cha- 
 racter, he sent for a vessel, and almost vi et armis 
 shipped off fourteen families at one sweep. 
 
 In disposing of lots to settlers, two methods are 
 adopted in Canada, and their respective advantages 
 and disadvantages are warmly discussed. The one 
 adopted by the Canada Company is to insist upon 
 an instalment at entry. The other method is to 
 leave payment of any portion optional to the settler, 
 but carrying on an account of interest against him. 
 The advocates of the first plan maintain, that, by 
 paying down a certain sum at first, the settler feels 
 an intei'est and a degree of independence which he 
 would not otherwise experience, and that the sums 
 advanced enable the landlord to make roads, erect 
 bridges, mills, &c. ; and further, that, as the black 
 account is always running on, and a day of settling 
 must arrive, for which tlie settlers are too often for- 
 getful to provide, it ends in the abandonment of the 
 farm, and in ruin to themselves and families. For 
 the second plan, it is argued, that many industrious 
 worthy men have absolutely no capital to begin with, 
 beyond what may be necessary to purchase oxen, 
 ploughs, &c., and to maintain their families, until a 
 crop be gathered, and that to exact their pittance in 
 such circumstances, is, in fact, to stifle their industry
 
 TOWNSHIP OP WATERLOO. 281 
 
 in its birth. By allowing' time, and regularly balan- 
 cing the account, taking occasionally what may be 
 forthcoming either in cash, cattle, or grain, a poor 
 man slips into clear possession without feeling any 
 inconvenience. We shall find that, as in most ques- 
 tions of the kind, there is much to be said on both 
 sides, and probably either phm may be followed with 
 advantage in certain particular cases. Tlie United 
 States, who bestow much attention on the disposal of 
 their public lands, have resolved, in the western 
 country, to exact, not an instalment only, but pay- 
 ment in full at the entry of settlers, though it is to 
 be observed, that a man may there acquire 80 acres 
 for 100 dollars, or L.22, 10s. 
 
 Friday I4th. — Mr Oliver, my landlord at Guelph, 
 having agreed to drive me in his waggon to Mr 
 Dickson's at Gait, a gentleman who purchased from 
 Government a whole township, and to whom I had 
 particular introductions, we started about eleven 
 o'clock, and reached our destination about four. The 
 road was certainly superior to what I had travelled 
 yesterday, though mud holes and rotten corduroy 
 were occasionally to be met with. Limestone was to 
 be seen on every hand in great abundance, and I ob- 
 served, at one place, a kiln hewn out and erected 
 in the very stratum itself. Wherever a clearing oc- 
 curred, the wheat looked beautiful. We passed 
 through the township of Waterloo, settled mostly 
 by Dutch. The soil appeared to be a good, useful, 
 sandy loam, well watered by streams and springs. 
 I was delighted with the cultivation, especially upon
 
 282 
 
 UPPKR CANADA. 
 
 the farms of Sclineidi!!- and Warner. Each farm 
 miglit be from 200 to 300 acres, laid out into reij^uhir 
 fields, and not a stump to he seen. The ploughing 
 was capital, the crops most liixTn-iant, and the cattle, 
 horses, Sec, of a superior stamj), with handsome 
 houses, barns, &c., and orchards promising a rich re- 
 turn. Waterloo satisfied me above all that I had yet 
 seen of the capability of Canada to become a fruitful 
 and fine country. 
 
 The forest around consists of heavy timber, and 
 the township does not enjoy the advantage of direct 
 water-carriage ; yet have these Dutchmen, within a 
 period of twenty years, produced farms, M-hich, in 
 general aspect, very nearly resemble well cultivated 
 land in Britain. The farmers are primitive and 
 simple-minded, attending to little beyond their own 
 affairs, and so indifferent in regard to politics, that 
 Mr Dickson doubted much if some of them were yet 
 aware of the death of George III. A great deal of 
 capital flowed into this settlement, during the large 
 expenditure at Guelph by the Canada Company, the 
 Dutchmen supplying teams, provisions, Sec. My 
 travelling companion valued some of the fiirras at 
 25 dollars, about L. G, per acre. 
 
 Chopping or clearing land, ready for sowing, will 
 cost sometimes 12 dollars, or L.3 per acre; the first 
 return will be 13 or 20 bushels of wheat, worth at 
 present 5s. per bushel. The usual mode of clearing 
 timbered land is to cut down and burn all the wood of 
 one foot diameter, and under that. The larger trees 
 are only girdled. Clearing, in this way, costs about
 
 TOWNSHIP OF GALT. 283 
 
 8 dollars, or 40s. per acre. When this is done, a 
 crop of wheat can be harrowed in, to be followed by 
 two or three years of pasture or hay, when the plough 
 may be used, and, during which time, the girdled 
 trees are either cut into fencing stuff or burat. No 
 lime has been used as yet upon this land, and I was 
 told of two instances, where farmers had absolutely 
 built new stables and barns, to escape from an accu- 
 midation of despised manure. 
 
 A few miles before reaching Gait, the residence of 
 Mr Dickson, we came in view of a fine stream, bear- 
 ing the name of Grand River, but of course, quite 
 unconnected with the Uttawas of the lower part of 
 the province. 
 
 The settlement of Mr Dickson is one of much in- 
 terest, being conducted by himself, on his own re- 
 sources, in the same way as that of Colonel Talbot 
 on the banks of Lake Erie. Mr Dickson began ope- 
 rations in 1815-16, by the purchase from Govern- 
 ment of this township, extending to 96,000 acres, 
 and to which he gave the name of Dumfries. He 
 selected a convenient spot with good water-power, to 
 commence a town, and formed a connection with an 
 enterprising American, who speedily established very 
 extensive mills. Mr Dickson built a commodious re- 
 sidence for himself, in a romantic situation, over- 
 hanging the river, and communicating by a bridge 
 with the mills and town. His plan of dealing with 
 settlers is extremely liberal, as he does not insist 
 upon any instalment being paid down ; and even, in 
 some cases, advances the means of puixhasing oxen.
 
 284 
 
 UPPER CANADA, 
 
 &c. In tliis way, the poorest emigrant, if steady and 
 industrious, must get forward. 
 
 A regular account is opened with each individual, 
 and partial j)ayments, either in money or produce, 
 accepted by Mr Dickson, from time to time. The 
 price of land is four dollars or 20s. per acre. Farms 
 have been occasionally abandoned by unsteady or 
 impatient individuals ; but some progress in clearing 
 has always been made, and of course, the farm has, 
 in so far, been rendered more valuable. A very con- 
 siderable extent of land has been disposed of, upon 
 both sides of the river, and hundreds of acres of fine 
 wheat are to be seen contiguous to each other. 
 
 An attempt had been made last spring to convey 
 produce down the river to the Welland Canal, by 
 which' Mr Shade, the owner of the mills, informed 
 me a saving of two-thirds would be effected upon 
 the transports of flour. This voyage was performed 
 by a son of Mr Dickson, accompanied by Mr Shade, 
 and being a navigation of about 100 miles, attended 
 with some hazards, as a first attempt, it created a 
 good deal of sensation at the time of my visit, and 
 much satisfaction among the farmers by its success. 
 Mr Dickson has about 2500 souls upon his estate, 
 and draws a very handsome income from the interest 
 of sales. I visited the mills with Mr Shade, who 
 took much trouble in explaining to me the various 
 machinery. The establishment comprises flour-mills, 
 saw-mills, cooperage, &c., and appeared to me equally 
 extensive and Avell arranged. I have been every 
 where struck with the liavoc and destruction of the
 
 TOWNSHIP OF GALT. 285 
 
 woods, and had a remarkable opportunity at this 
 place, of contrasting the value of a tree in Upper 
 Canada with what it would have fetched at home. 
 An uncommonly large and beautiful pine was lying 
 at the mill, which I could not estimate at less than 
 L.3 in Britain. Mr Shade, upon my putting the 
 question, told me it just cost him a York shilling, or 
 sevenpence Sterling. 
 
 Saturday, loth Mag. — iVIr ^Villiam Dickson having 
 kindly insisted upon conveying and accompanying 
 me to Hamilton, where I was to resume the stage, 
 we started, on horseback, after breakfast, and visited 
 various farms upon the township. The road lay 
 along the river, with much fine wood and beautiful 
 scenery. The crops were looking healthy and well 
 coloured. Some farms, partly improved and fenced, 
 with houses, were on sale, — the price demanded was 
 8 dollars, or 40s. per acre. There seemed to be 
 abundance of water every where, both from springs 
 and brooks falling into the Grand River, and the 
 substratum was still limestone. Some miles below 
 Gait, there is a valuable gypsum quarry on the banks 
 of the river, and it was curious to observe the line 
 of rich and verdant turf, which marked the route of 
 the waggons in their visits to the quarry, from scat- 
 tering as they went along, strongly evincing the eflFect 
 as a top-dressing. We called upon a settler from 
 Scotland, newly entered upon a farm of 100 acres, 
 for which he had paid down L. 1 00. The soil was a 
 good rich sandy loam, worth in Britain 35s. per acre 
 at least of rent.
 
 286 UPPKR CANADA. 
 
 The forest is here thin, probably not having' more 
 than forty or fifty old oaks upon an acre, and not 
 requiring those to be destroyed, it being quite pos- 
 sible to guide tlu! plough through the intervals. 
 
 Walter Smith was busy with his pair of oxen, 
 preparing the laud for wheat, of which he expected 
 to have thirty acres sown in autumn, the return from 
 which will probably repay him the price of his 
 farm, and allow him L. .'>0 or L, 60 besides for his 
 labour and maintenance, //•<?/« the first crop alone. 
 
 There are some delightful situations in this quarter 
 for mansions : tlie river upon one side, and a lovely 
 sheet of water called the Blue Lake, upon the other ; 
 fine open woods, springs, brooks, and a dry healthy 
 soil. It was a favourite haunt in old times of the 
 Indians, and a little mound close by a copious spring, 
 is still celebrated as a place where great councils 
 were held. We stopped to rest our horses, at a 
 new village called Paris, belonging to a very active 
 individual of the name of Capron, and having a good 
 water-power and other advantages, it promises to 
 become, ere long, a place of some importance. In 
 the afternoon we reached Brandtford, a pretty con- 
 siderable vilhige belonging to the Indians, a tract 
 of land in this quarter having been reserved for their 
 behoof. It is managed by Government, who account 
 for rent and sales to the chiefs. There had been a 
 sale of village lots this day, and for tlie first time I saw 
 the Indians assembled in any number. The lots sold 
 for L. 25 one-fourth of an acre, which is an immense 
 price in Canada, and argues an expectation of Brandt-
 
 PRICES. 287 
 
 ford continuing to prosper. Many of the Indians are 
 now beginning to acquire settled habits, and to cul- 
 tivate farms, but many more are yet totally abandon- 
 ed to idleness and debauchery. 
 
 The country to Hamilton by Ancaster, is partly 
 forest, partly settled. The soil is chiefly clay. An- 
 caster stands high, with some fine farms about it, 
 healthy and well watered. 
 
 Immediately before reaching Hamilton, we come 
 to the brink of a high limestone ridge, and command 
 a magnificent view of the rich flat below, extending 
 to Lake Ontario. At St Catharine's, a small town, 
 dependent upon the Welland Canal, we passed that 
 work, and saw some of the wooden locks. 
 
 The country through which I travelled next day, 
 lies between the great limestone ridge and Lake On- 
 tario. This remarkable ridge extends from the Ge- 
 nessee country, in the State of New York, and, cross- 
 ing the Niagara River, forms the celebrated falls. 
 It is beautifully diversified with woodland, orchards, 
 and farms, is very productive, and settling with con- 
 siderable rapidity. On Monday evening I concluded 
 this part of my excursion, by reaching a friend's 
 house at the Falls. 
 
 Before proceeding to the third branch of my let- 
 ter, viz. Emigration to the United States, I may no- 
 tice the current average prices of some articles in 
 Upper Canada, at this date, May 1831 : — 
 
 Ploughs from £110 to £2 Currency. 
 
 Waggons, 15 
 
 Fajm horses, five years old, 12 10 to 15
 
 288 UPPER CANADA. 
 
 Oxen, for draught, £10 to £12 10 per pair. 
 
 Cows, 2 to .3 
 
 Sheep, 5 to 7 G 
 
 Swine, 10 to 15 per cwt. 
 
 Poultry, 7.J 
 
 Farm servants, per annum, 24 to 30 and board. 
 
 Female ditto do. 12 10 to 15 
 
 May 1st 1831 — Prices of" Farm Produce. 
 
 Wheat, per bushel of 60 lb. . . , . L.O 5 
 
 Barley, do. of 5(5 lb 3 l.J 
 
 Oats, do. of 36 lb 1 
 
 Hay, per ton 15 
 
 Corn (Maize), per bushel of 60 lb. ... 026 
 Potatoes, do. do. from Is. 3d. to Is. lOd. 
 
 Pork, per lb 3.^ 
 
 Butter, ditto 7.*, 
 
 Labourers were receiving last spring about 8 dollars 
 or 40s. per raonth, and board, at the canals and pub- 
 lic works. 
 
 This fine province is making wonderful advances, 
 and wlien the canals, and some projected railways, 
 are fairly in operation, its progress will become yet 
 more rapid. In 1824, 10,000 bushels of wheat were 
 shipped upon Ontario from Biulington Bay, and in 
 1830 the export had reached to 150,000 bushels. 
 Five bushels of wheat are allowed to tlie barrel of 
 flour. 
 
 The two great Canada canals have given rise to 
 much public and private discussion; and opinions of 
 their value, diametrically opposed to each other, are 
 entertained by men who would seem equally quali- 
 fied to judge.
 
 CANALS. 289 
 
 The Welland Canal, which connects Lake Erie 
 and Lake Ontario, avoiding the Niagara Falls, is in- 
 tended for mercantile purposes. The Rideau Canal 
 has been executed by Government with a view both 
 to mercantile and military purposes. Without at all 
 presuming to give an opinion, I feel bound to state, 
 that the impression made upon my mind, by those 
 persons whom I considered perfect masters of the 
 whole bearings of the case, and whom I know to be 
 independent and disinterested men, is adverse to the 
 utility and probable success of these great works, at 
 least when compared with the cost at which they 
 have been constructed. Heavy as the expense, how- 
 ever, has been, we must not rashly infer that it has 
 been altogether thrown away ; and, although it is 
 possible that a far more moderate expenditure upon 
 roads and railways might have been attended with 
 happier results, we must yet hope to see essential 
 and important benefits flowing from these canals. 
 
 T
 
 ( 290 ) 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Emigration to The States — Albany — Valley of the Hudson — 
 Value of various Farms — Produce and Prices — Genesee 
 Country — Michigan. 
 
 In offering a few remarks upon the prospects of 
 emigrants to tlie States, so many circumstances occur 
 upon which it would be necessary to touch, tliat I 
 almost shrink from the attempt. The great and in- 
 teresting tie wliich must be severed when we leave 
 our native country, and become the denizens of an- 
 other, is a point which every man must settle for him- 
 self. Should it prove no impediment, he will find 
 numerous and varied fields of agricultural enterprize 
 presenting themselves in every quarter of the Union. 
 He will find perfect security and independence, and, 
 with ordinary good sense and good humour, can 
 have no difficulty in maintaining friendly habits with 
 his neighbours. 
 
 Two plans present themselves to the emigrant with 
 capital in fixing his residence in the States. He may 
 either purchase or occupy a farm in the old settled 
 part of the country, or he may establish himself in 
 some of the new or yet unsettled portions of the 
 older States, The choice must be dependent on the
 
 UNITED states' LAND-OFFICE. 291 
 
 means and character of tlie individual ; but in either 
 way the greatest risk of disappointment will always 
 be found in fixing too hastily. I would strongly 
 recommend to every man who may emigrate to 
 Canada or the States, that he should allot some 
 months to looking about him, ere he make a pur- 
 chase, which it is not again so easy to exchange, 
 should any of those numerous drawbacks present 
 themselves, which we are ever too apt to overlook 
 in the excitement of the moment. 
 
 The arrangements for managing and disposing of 
 the United States' public lands are very complete, 
 and no difficulty or annoyance is likely to occur, if 
 we except, perhaps, the delay in receiving the formal 
 title or patent, occasioned by a heavy arrear of busi- 
 ness in that department. This occasions, however, 
 neither loss nor hazard, as the warrant of possession 
 which every purchaser immediately receives, secures 
 him in all the rights of property. 
 
 A bureau at Washington, under a head commis- 
 sioner (at present Judge Hayward), superintends the 
 various land-offices established throughout every part 
 of the country, and where intending purchasers are 
 treated with the utmost civility and dispatch. 
 
 I had the honour of being personally introduced 
 to Mr Hayward by the President himself; and I 
 would take this opportunity of expressing my deep 
 sense of the cordial and kind reception I met with 
 from General Jackson, IVIr Van Buren, and others, 
 and of the candid and open manner in which the busi- 
 
 T 2
 
 292 ALBANY. 
 
 ness of the land-office was explained to me by Mr 
 Hayward. 
 
 As it is impossible, within reasonable terms, to 
 discuss seriatim the respective fitness of the different 
 States for affording comfortable settlements to British 
 emigrants, I shall detail my own personal observa- 
 tions, made npon the Banks of the Hudson, above 
 Albany, and in some parts of the Genesee country, 
 and the information which I was enabled to collect, 
 from most respectable settlers in Michigan, as a fair 
 sample of what is generally to be expected in the 
 western country, leaving such inferences to be drawn 
 as the statements deserve. 
 
 Various classes of settlers are to be found in the 
 States, from the man of substance and capital to the 
 rough back woodsman and squatter ; but a minute 
 discussion of the several grades does not seem to be 
 here required. 
 
 The first farm which I visited was in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of Albany, forming part of the princely 
 estate of Mr Van Ransalser. It contained 600 acres 
 of fine mellow loam along the banks of the river, 
 divided into fields by rail-fences, which cost here 
 4s. 6d. per sixteen foct, including boards, nails, and 
 work, — four rails, and about five feet high. 
 
 The crops chiefly raised are wheat, Indian corn, 
 pumpkins, planted in the intervals or rows, oats, 
 potatoes, and large quantities of Timothy for hay. 
 The buildings are of timber, handsome and con- 
 venient. 
 
 The farm was let, some years ago, at 2000 dollars.
 
 CATTLE-DEALING. 293 
 
 or L. 450, which, in America, seems to be a very- 
 high rent ; but it must be recollected that the situa- 
 tion is particularly favourable, from its close contact 
 with the thriving city of Albany. A turnpike road 
 upon Macadam's principle, has been commenced, from 
 Albany to the north, and six miles of it are already 
 completed. It runs through the centre of this farm. 
 It is, at present, the home farm of the eldest son of 
 Mr Van Ransalaer, who has imported, at consider- 
 able expense, from England, some fine short-horn 
 stock, and which he is very successfully crossing, 
 with a judicious selection of native cows. 
 
 Although very fine cattle and sheep are to be 
 found in some districts, I am satisfied that more may 
 be done in the department of live-stock, than in any 
 other branch of American husbandry. 
 
 As the country becomes more populous, manufac- 
 tures (already far advanced) will continue to in- 
 crease, and fat stock, with dairy produce, must be- 
 come objects of greater importance to the farmer 
 than they have hitherto been. I met with a very 
 intelligent cattle-dealer in Pennsylvania, who gave 
 me much information on this subject. He and his 
 partners deal, to a large extent, for the Philadelphia 
 and New York markets. The system appeared to 
 be perfectly organized. They purchase all the fat 
 stock they can procure within a reasonable range of 
 these cities, which are first disposed of to the but- 
 chers ; and having thus cleared the field, they bring 
 forward their droves from the back settlements or dis- 
 tant states, in such a succession, as supplies, without
 
 294 GOOD HORSES. 
 
 glutting, tlie m.arket. Some of tholr cattle travel 
 above 600 miles, and are two months on the road. 
 He told me that ho purchased 400 oxen every year 
 from one Kentucky farmer, and he considers a stock 
 fiirm to be a very sure and profitable concern. New- 
 York takes about 700 oxen a-week when the demand 
 is brisk. These weigh, on an average, about 65 
 stone, 14 lb. to a stone ; and the price he receives, is 
 from L. 12 to L. 13 a-head. I was happy to hear his 
 opinion regarding live and dead weight to coincide 
 nearly with my own. When pr'nne fat, he reckons 
 on a sink o^ one-third only, on the live weight. He 
 dislikes pumpkin fed beef, and always insists on the 
 animals which he purchases being fed, at least lat- 
 terly, on maize. His expenses are high, much of 
 his stock costing him above L. 2 a-head in road ex- 
 penses ; and he gives his head drivers 4s. 6d. a-day, 
 Avitli food for themselves and horses. His profits 
 this season, he says, have been very handsome, and 
 the trade in general is a good one to a steady man, 
 with sufficient capital. 
 
 Horses, in all parts of the States and Canada 
 which I visited, and I believe imiversally, are to be 
 remarked as superior in the qualities of action, 
 strength, and figure. It is rare to pass a farmer's 
 team, without noticing horses worthy of being trans- 
 ferred to any gentleman's stud. They are kindly 
 treated, well fed, and remarkably docile, of Avhich I 
 met with repeated instances, which would have not a 
 little astonished our first rate English coachmen.
 
 Davenport's farm. 295 
 
 They are in general about 15 hands, or 151, and cost 
 from L. 10 to L. 25 each. 
 
 From Albany, I proceeded about 30 miles up the 
 river, where I spent several days with a friend, and, 
 in his company, examined some farms, then on sale, 
 in his neighbourhood. 
 
 To afford some idea of the expected prices and 
 returns of old farms in this district, I shall subjoin a 
 few notes, which I made at the time of my visit. 
 
 1st, Captain Davenport's farm on tlie east bank of 
 the Hudson. It contains 350 acres, 100 of which 
 are in wood, hemlock (or Canada pine, the bark of 
 which is in general use for tanning), maple, beech, &c. 
 The soil is partly clay, partly sandy loam. A large 
 portion is a rich holm, on the river side, and of the 
 finest quality. The price demanded is 30 dollars, 
 L. 7, 10s. per acre ; but it would probably be bought 
 for 25 dollars, or L. 5, I2s. The return might rea- 
 sonably be expected to reach L. 112, 10s., clear of 
 expenses, from the flat land, and L. 70 from the pro- 
 fit on a sheep stock, on the upper portion of the farm, 
 in whole L. 182, 10s. The price would be at L.5, 
 lOs., L. 1875,* and an outlay on buildings, fences, 
 and drains, of L. 1000 more, would still be within 
 L. 3000, for which yoii have a return of above L. 180. 
 In making this rough estimate, I resolved to be 
 moderate in estimating returns, and liberal in calcu- 
 lating outlay, and am perfectly satisfied that an indus- 
 
 • This property has been lately purchased by a gentleman 
 from Scotland for L. 2000.
 
 296 FARaiS ON SALE. 
 
 trious Scotch farmer would realize a profit of L. 200 
 a-year. 
 
 It is to be noticed also, that one-half of the timber 
 might be at once sold off, without any detriment to 
 the farm, and that I calculate upon the owner and 
 his family drawing the ordinary articles of subsist- 
 ence from the land, besides the above return. 
 
 2d, Next to this farm, was that of Mr Knicker- 
 bocker, containing- 275 acres. There is a fine holm 
 also on this farm, and the upland seemed fully better 
 than No. 1. This farm was let last year in shares 
 for one year, and the owner received L. 63. The 
 price asked is L. 4 per acre, or L. 1100, and L. 200 
 more would be required for houses, fences, &c. There 
 is no more timber than is requisite for the use of the 
 estate. This farm seemed to be in very indifferent 
 order. 
 
 3d, Mr Chesney's farm, 106 acres, with wood 
 sufficient for use of the property. About 40 acres 
 of very fine holm, capable of yielding, I was assured, 
 40 or 45 bushels of oats, or other grain in propor- 
 tion. This farm could be had for L. 530, and would 
 certainly return L. 45 or L.50 clear. It was in very 
 fair order. 
 
 4th, Mr Vely's farm, 118 acres, 40 acres of most 
 superior holm ; the upland good ; with a stream run- 
 ning through it. The houses appeared to be new. 
 This farm could be had for L. 400, and the return 
 could not be less than L. 35 or L. 40. 
 
 5th, A farm of 300 acres, occupied by Colonel 
 Grant, at a rent of 300 dollars, L. 67, 10s. The soil
 
 WAGES AND PRICES. 297 
 
 is good loam, nine parts of it are clay. A new 
 dwelling-house, and a good barn, with a valuable 
 wood lot. It might be bought for L. 1500. 
 
 The whole of these properties were evidently sus- 
 ceptible of great improvement, though in foul and 
 bad condition. The local situation is good; the 
 Champlain Canal passing within half a mile, but 
 separated by the river. The roads are either already 
 turnpike, or becoming such, though certainly not of 
 a description to pass through the ordeal of Mr Mac- 
 adam. No. 3 and 4 are contiguous, and might be 
 advantageously thrown into one estate. 
 
 The following list of prices, &c. I procured from 
 the best authority as current in April 1831 : 
 
 Current Prices, and Rates of Wages, on Hudson Ri- 
 ver, above Albany, April 1831. 
 
 Wages. — Men for general farm- work, summer, 
 £ 2, 5s. per month ; winter, £ 1, 7s. per month. 
 Harvest-work, cradling wheat, 4s. 6d. per day. A 
 cradle-scythe is said to cut four acres a-day, and re- 
 quires one man 'to bind to each cradler. Hay cut- 
 ting, 2s. 7d. a-day. — Board found besides to all these. 
 Good cooks, 18s. to 27s. per month. Chamber- 
 maids, 13s. 6d. to 18s. per month. 
 
 Live Stock. — Good ordinary horses, £ 20 to £ 25. 
 Oxen, per pair, with yoke and chain, £ 20 to £ 30. 
 Cows, £ 4, 10s. to £ 6. Merino sheep, 9s, to 18s. ;
 
 298 PRICES. 
 
 Saxony, 13s. 6cl. to 45s. ; common sheep, a sort of 
 coarse Leicesters, 4s. 6d. to 9s. after shearing. 
 Brood sow, £2, 5s. to f 3, 10s. Hogs, Id. to l^d. 
 per ft) on live weight. Geese, 2s. lOd. a-pair. Tur- 
 keys, 2s. Id. each. Fowls, 6^d. 
 
 Utensils Farm waggon, £13, 10s. Ox cart, 
 
 £ 10. Lumber sleigh, £ 3 to £5. Ploughs, £1, 10s. 
 to £ 1, 16s. Pleasure sleigh, £ 7 to £ 70; ditto wag- 
 gon, £ 9 to £ 35. Good double harness, £ 18. 
 
 Produce. — Wheat, 6s. 9d. per bushel. Barley, 2s. 
 8d. Oats, Is. 6d. Indian corn, 2s. 3d. Potatoes, 
 Is. 3d. Beef, per quarter, IBs. to 23s. ; per lb 2d. 
 to 4d. IVIutton, lid. to 2d. per ft). Veal the same. 
 Pork, 22s. to 27s. per cwt. Hay, from 23s. to £ 3 
 10s. per ton. Cyder, 4s. 6d. to IBs. per barrel of 
 32 gallons. Wool, merino, 2s. 7d.; common, Is. 8d. 
 per ft) (16 oz. to ft)). Live goose feathers, 2s. Id. 
 per lb. Butter, 5d. per ft). Cheese, 2d. to 4d. per ft). 
 Eggs, 4d. to 5d. per doz. Brandy (French), 4s 6d. 
 per gallon. Gin, 3s. ditto. Whisky, Is. Id. to Is. 
 6d. ditto. Excellent table beer, 4s. 6d. per barrel of 
 32 gallons. Fire-wood, 13s. 6d. country price; 22s. 
 to 27s. town price, per cord of 128 cubic feet, de- 
 livered 4 feet long, and costs 2s. per cord to cut to 
 length required for use. 
 
 The American farmers live comfortably, and at a 
 very moderate expense. Candles and soap are ge- 
 nerally manufactured from kitchen refuse. A good
 
 STYLE OF LIVING. 299 
 
 housewife assured me, that the butcher-meat for her 
 family, fifteen in number, did not exceed, in whole. 
 Is. per day (three meals), except when she allowed 
 them turkeys and other poultry, when she reckoned 
 the expense at 2s. 6d. The flour consumed did not 
 exceed 4s. 6d. per week. They have fruit, both 
 fresh and preserved, in the utmost profusion ; and 
 the cider barrel is always ready broached. A good 
 many articles of clothing are spun or woven at home; 
 and the geese are subjected to periodical contribu- 
 tions towards the bedding of the household, or the 
 feathers sold at a good price. 
 
 At a later period in my tour, I passed through a 
 considerable portion of the Genesee country, cele- 
 brated for its great fertility, and the superior quali- 
 ty of its produce. Upon entering this part of New 
 York state from Canada, I was immediately struck 
 by the superior quality of the cattle. On many 
 farms I observed a variety of these in shape and size 
 greatly resembling the heavy class of our west 
 Highlanders. They were chiefly of a dark brin- 
 dled colour, and many of them really handsome. I 
 did not see a particular portion of the Genesee dis- 
 trict, which is said to be imcommonly rich ; but what 
 came under my view, in a journey of between three 
 and four hundred miles, in this part of the country, 
 was certainly very fine. The surface is finely undu- 
 lated, — rivers, brooks, lakes, farms, villages, and fo- 
 rest scenery, all presenting themselves in succession. 
 The soil is sometimes rather light, but generally a 
 good, and often a rich black loam.
 
 300 GENESEE COUNTRY. 
 
 Tiie crops of wheat, clover, rye, pease, and Indian 
 com all looked well ; and the orchards of peach, 
 plum, apple, &c. were richly laden with blossom. 
 The houses and buildings I found generally very 
 good. Where land is let for a money rent, it is com- 
 monly 4s. 6d. per aci-e. Old farms sell from £4, lOs. 
 to £ 9 per acre, including houses, orchards, &c. 
 
 I found every where in this quarter noble single 
 trees, elm, oak, &c. judiciously left in the fields, af- 
 fording both ornament and shelter, and the total want 
 of which in many cultivated portions of Canada and 
 the States, gives an appearance of nakedness even 
 in situations where wood is treated as a nuisance. 
 I would remark, also, that a great improvement, in 
 shelter and beauty, would be effected, by frequently 
 substituting hedges for rail fences. An English far- 
 mer near Geneva, I was informed, has miles of fine 
 hawthorn hedges, four feet high, and completely be- 
 lying the assertion that thorns will not succeed in 
 America. His practice is to plant in a trench^ not 
 upon a ridge or bank, as the great risk of failure is 
 from the summer drouglit. 
 
 Before reaching Albany, I travelled the greatest 
 part of one day through the valley of the Mohawk, 
 and upon which lie the rich German flats. It is a 
 noble coixntry, and the land of the very first quality, 
 but farmed too often in a slovenly manner. 
 
 The country of Michigan, which I selected as a 
 sample of new settlement in the west, is at present 
 quite tlie rar/e, and has, in a great degree, supplanted 
 Ohio, Illinois, &c. It lies between 41" 31' and 45°
 
 MICHIGAN. 301 
 
 40' N. Lat., and 5° 12' and 10= W. Long., to the 
 westward of Lake Erie, and including' an immense 
 extent of country capable of improvement, with fine 
 water privileges. Detroit, an old French town, is 
 its capital. By a reference to the map, it will be 
 seen that Michigan can readily avail itself of New 
 York, New Orleans, or Montreal, as markets, and 
 must, of course, derive from such facilities of inter- 
 course considerable advantage. The climate is tem- 
 perate and healthy. Winter sets in generally about 
 the middle of November, and continues till about the 
 middle of March. At Detroit, in 1818, the mean 
 heat of January was 24° ; and in 1820, the mean 
 heat of July was 69° ; of December, 27°. 
 
 The soil is in general a good fertile loam, upon 
 limestone ; and, in some places, a calcareous earth is 
 turned up, mixed with the common soil, which is 
 extremely productive. Clay is also prevalent in 
 some parts. 
 
 This territory is better watered than any other in 
 the United States. There is an abundance of game, 
 deer, bears, hares, ducks, turkey, quail, &c. and it is 
 finely diversified with lakes and brooks, rising in 
 most parts from copious springs. 
 
 Besides other sources of information, I happened 
 to travel, at difi'erent times, with two Michigan set- 
 tlers, who said much in its praise, and, although it 
 is quite usual for that class of persons to magnify 
 the advantages of a country where they are them- 
 selves fixed, I have every reason to believe that the 
 statements, separate and distinct, which I received
 
 302 SETTLERS IN MICHIGAN. 
 
 from tliese individuals, were substantially correct, 
 having- found tliein, in all essential points, not only 
 to confirm each other, but also to be corroborated by 
 other documents and evidence, which it was impos- 
 sible to doubt. 
 
 The first of these individuals whom I met, Avas a 
 fellow-passeng-er in the track-boat from Buffalo to 
 Rochester, upon the great Erie Canal. He appear- 
 ed to be one of those characters so numerous in the 
 States, who are always ready to make a move when 
 they consider it likely to better their condition, or 
 even to offer reasonable hopes of a fair return, for 
 indulging their love of enterprise. He and a brother 
 had, in this way, explored Michigan a few years ago, 
 and had picked up various lots of land, near intend- 
 ed towns, harbours, &c. for which they paid 5s. 7^d. 
 per acre, and which can already be sold for 22s. 6d. 
 per acre. They intend to dispose of some, and to 
 occupy part themselves, as he likes the country for a 
 residence. He considers it superior to Ohio, as be- 
 ing more healthy. The country is in some places 
 under heavy timber, and in others it is open prairie, 
 where a settler has nothing to do but to start his 
 plough. The soil is in general a loamy blackish 
 sand, very productive. Eighty acres may be pur- 
 chased in the Govenmient Land-office for £22, 10s. 
 A ]VIr Gilbert, who realized a fortune as a contrac- 
 tor for work on the Erie Canal, has transferred his 
 capital to, and fixed his residence in, Michigan. He 
 vested £ 2250 in land, which, at 5s. 7^d. per acre, 
 makes a tolerably extensive domain. He is farming
 
 SETTLERS IN MICHIGAN. 303 
 
 and improving with great spirit, and this autumn he 
 will have 400 acres in wheat. As a proof of the 
 admixture of calcareous matter in much of the soil, 
 Mr Gilbert had a tract of what he considered to be 
 very sterile sand, and not worth 3s. an acre, to sell. 
 His men having been sent to procure some of this 
 sand, to be employed in building, they found their 
 hands blistered; and, upon a farther investigation, the 
 calcareous matter in the sand has proved so useful, 
 that Mr Gilbert would not take .25s. an acre now for 
 what he had previously esteemed of so little value. 
 Wlieat is selling readily at Detroit for 4s. 6d. per 
 bushel : the return is from 20 to 40 bushels per 
 acre. 
 
 My other Michigan friend is established in the 
 town of Ypsilante, a city which does not yet figure 
 in any map. He holds land and farms, but his pro- 
 per avocation is somewhat miscellaneous. He has 
 built a large tavern, opened a warehouse or store, 
 and runs the stage for sixty miles. He appeared to 
 be an uncommonly shrewd sensible man, looking 
 sharp after every thing. When we met, he was tra- 
 velling to New York, to make purchases of goods 
 for the season, and, inter alia, two or three additional 
 coaches. The influx of emigrants at present to Mi- 
 chigan is quite remarkable. Seven steam-vessels 
 ply from Buifalo to Detroit, and the decks have 
 been swarming every day since the navigation open- 
 ed for the season. Mr Stackhouse is convinced, 
 that, for many years, a home-market will be found
 
 304 MICHIGAN COUNTRY. 
 
 among the new settlers for all the Michigan pro- 
 duce. 
 
 Land-offices are establislied in various situations, 
 where the settler may provide himself with a farm 
 at the usual rate of 5s. 7^d. per acre. Should he 
 chance to fancy one in some favoured spot (most of 
 which ai"e already secured along the great road for 
 300 miles through the country), he will have little 
 difficulty in procuring it for 12s. or 15s. an acre. 
 
 Michigan is not yet admitted into the Union as a 
 state. Intelligent settlers consider this to be no dis- 
 advantagOo The expense of their public works, as 
 roads, bridges, jails, court-houses, &c,, are defrayed 
 by the General Government, in place of being as- 
 sessed upon themselves ; and although they cannot 
 boast of one or two members of Congress, their in- 
 terests are sufficiently watched by a Delegate, who 
 resides at AV^ashington for that purpose. Mr Stack- 
 house describes the scenery as in many places high- 
 ly romantic. 
 
 The timber consists of black walnut, elm, beecli, 
 oak, hickory, sugar maple, &c. The produce of the 
 land runs from 25 to 50 bushels after one bushel 
 sown of wheat, Indian corn, <S:c. Tuniips are likely 
 to succeed well, also beet and mangel wurzel. Prices 
 of stock, &c. seem to be much tlie same as in Cana- 
 da. Horses cost from £ 18 to £22, 10s.; oxen 
 from £ 15 to £ 18 a paii'. Mechanics are establish- 
 ing themselves wherever demand for their labour is 
 found. The lakes and rivers aboimd with fish, as
 
 SAGANAW BAY. 
 
 305 
 
 trout, white fish, bass, &c., and game is plentiful. 
 The Indians are found in the more remote parts of 
 the country, but they are perfectly harmless, and 
 seldom come near the settlers. 
 
 Such is an outline of the account I received of 
 Michigan, and which, I have no doubt, is in all es- 
 sential particulars correct. 
 
 I may add, that, from the rapid improvement 
 which has even already taken place, in regard to 
 communication, the journey from Michigan to NeM- 
 York is easily accomplished in six days. 
 
 In 1820, a Government Expedition was sent into 
 the western country, for the purpose of ascertain- 
 ing the natural advantages and productions. The 
 report is highly favourable to the fertility and capa- 
 bilities of Michigan. An extensive range of country 
 upon the River and Bay of Saganaw, on Lake Hu- 
 ron, is spoken of, in terms of high admiration, for 
 the richness of the soil, and natural beauty of the 
 scenery, and also as presenting uncommon induce- 
 ments to enterprising and industrious ftirmers and 
 mechanics, from its central and advantageous posi- 
 tion for business. Saganaw Bay is about 60 miles 
 in length, and 30 miles wide, with numerous fine 
 islands. It is 180 miles west of Detroit. Game is 
 mentioned to be very abundant, consisting of deer, 
 bear, brown rabbit, or hare, weighing about 6 lb, 
 partridge or grouse, pigeons, ducks, &c. Fox Ri- 
 ver is also specially noticed as highly desirable for 
 settlers, in regard to quality of soil, beauty, and lo- 
 
 u
 
 306 ESTIMATE OP RETURNS. 
 
 cal advantages. It runs into the west end of Lake 
 Michigan. 
 
 I made out a rough estimate of a supposed in- 
 vestment in Michigan, and having submitted it to 
 the correction of competent judges, acquainted with 
 the present state of the district, it may perhaps be 
 useful to insert it, especially as it applies also 
 much of U2)per Canada. 
 
 Price of IGO acres, at 1} dollar, is 200 dollars, or £45 
 
 Expense of seed, labour, (say 150 
 acres), and rail fence, at 6 dol- 
 lars, '. . . 900 _, _. 202 10 
 
 Harvesting, at 2 dollars, ... MO 07 10 
 
 Cost of dwelling-house, stables, 
 
 &c 800 „„ «„ 180 
 
 2200 £495 
 
 Returns Produce of 150 acres (20 bushels per acre) 3000 
 
 bushels, at 1 dollar per bushel, . . . £675 
 
 Deduct . 495 
 
 £ 180 clear. 
 
 The dollar is taken at 4s. 6d. No allowance is 
 made for maintenance, and it may be said that the 
 expenses are underrated. The above estimate, liow- 
 ever, is given upon pretty good data, and as the 
 settler will certainly repeat the wheat crop for at 
 least one or two seasons more without any deterio- 
 ration, and becomes, likewise, free owner of land 
 and houses, he may afford to double or treble that 
 item, or to take a smaller return per acre, or a lower 
 price per bushel, and still be very well off. Tlie 
 return was stated to me at 25 or 30 bushels per acre
 
 MICHIGAN COUNTRY. 307 
 
 at an average, and a dollar was the price given last 
 season without any particular excitement. The 
 houses are of a superior description, the dwelling- 
 houses being supposed to contain seven or eight 
 rooms, with kitchen and other domestic offices at- 
 tached. 
 
 A good deal of discussion took place before the 
 Emigration Committee, upon the probability of set- 
 tlers being able to refund a portion, or the whole, of 
 the sums advanced by Government on their account. 
 Should there be any foundation at all for the state- 
 ment I have here given, it is abundantly clear that 
 Mr Wilraot Morton's expectations on that head may 
 be very easily realized. 
 
 The tide of emigration is at present setting very 
 strong into Michigan. It is stated in the Detroit 
 Courier of 26 th May last, " that the sales of public 
 lands up to 5 o'clock yesterday, amounted to 20,700 
 dollai's ! On two several days they exceeded 5000 ; 
 one day, 5600. The total amount in this district 
 alone, since the 1st of March, is 48,727 dollars." 
 
 The cotton-plant, the grape-vine, the sweet potato 
 of Carolina, tomato, and the egg-plant, were all suc- 
 cessfully cultivated last year *. 
 
 The period cannot be remote when pauperism 
 must become an object of anxious investigation, as 
 it already is of deep solicitude to every wellwisher of 
 his country, and must be followed up with measures 
 
 • Appendix, No. 1. 
 
 u2
 
 308 EMIGRATION. 
 
 of energy and decision adequate to the political and 
 moral importance of the subject. 
 
 Willie it may well be esteemed a dubious policy 
 to pamper population by any permanent system of 
 encourag-ement, few thinking' minds will deny that 
 the existing- pressure, (whether it be an actual excess 
 or not), ought to be forthwith removed, and with no 
 fartlior delay than the discov'ery of a safe and prac- 
 ticable vent may require. 
 
 Whether we contemplate the mass of wretched- 
 ness and sickening hopelessness in which thousands 
 of well meaning labourers and artizans are at this 
 moment plunged, or the absorbing demands which 
 their necessities occasion, by the amount of parish 
 rates, all must concur in the anxious wish, that some 
 remedy may ere long be devised. We have written 
 and said so much uj)on this subject, that, from the 
 very attempts to throw in light, it has become mar- 
 vellously mystified and confused. Neither is it to 
 be concealed that considerable and conflicting diffi- 
 culties exist, though it is believed and hoped, none 
 which patient investigation and a liberal policy may 
 not overcome. It may be reasonably assumed, that 
 parishes distressed by rates will readily concur in a 
 fair and final composition, wliich is to free tbom from 
 a heavy and a growing annual charge. Government, 
 on the other hand, by receiving such funds, and 
 making simple and economical arrangements, may 
 not only relieve the pressure at home, but will also 
 confer happiness and independence upon those who 
 have unhappily occasioned the distress. Neither
 
 EMIGRATION. 309 
 
 does it seem necessary to open the public purse for 
 this desirable object ; on the contrary, by a judicious 
 selection of settlements, and reserving- lots of Govern- 
 ment lands adjoining- those devoted to emigrants, 
 there can be little doubt that, in a few years, con- 
 siderable sales may be effected. The man who finds 
 himself and family comfortably and conveniently 
 settled upon fifty or an hundred acres, will ere long 
 be willing and able to pay for a like quantity, which 
 has been left alongside of his farm, and in this way 
 Government may be amply reimbursed. 
 
 In regard to the question of place, Upper Canada 
 would seem, on many accounts, to be most appro- 
 priate ; nor can I bring myself, for a moment, to put 
 Tasmania, New Holland, &c. in competition, how- 
 ever high the eulogiums which my respected friend 
 the Editor of the Journal of Agriculture has passed 
 upon Australasia. ~A pestilential and impure moral 
 atmosphere hangs over these colonies, which will 
 require a very long period to dispel ; and although 
 this can be certainly best effected by a wholesome 
 infusion of character from home, it must prove a 
 heavy sacrifice to those individuals who undertake 
 the task. The climate, the soil, the accessibility of 
 North America, with various other circumstances, 
 offer nearly au assurance of success. The experi- 
 ments hitherto made by Government, in those colo- 
 nies, although far indeed from having failed, might 
 certainly have been conducted in a more satisfactory 
 and economical maimer. 
 
 The settlers sent out by Government have been
 
 310 EMIGRATION. 
 
 of that class which could contribnto nothing but 
 manual labour, and the transaction must necessarily 
 assume a very different aspect; if parishes are called 
 upon to bear a principal part of the expense. Settle- 
 ments have been established also in a manner not 
 quite judicious. Tliey have been dropped too much 
 at random, and at remote distances from each other, 
 deprived of all the comfort and support which a 
 more concentrated system would have produced. 
 
 It is obvious that, in dealing with our dead weight 
 of population, two classes must be formed, viz. those 
 who can, and those who cannot, bear a certain portion 
 of the necessary expense of removal. With the first 
 of these descriptions of emigrants it will not be very 
 difficult to make suitable arraugomonts, and as to the 
 latter, there can be no doubt that much good mav be 
 attained by the establishment of an honourable and 
 active agency in Canada, to ascertain and register the 
 wants of the colonists, or public works, in regard to 
 servants, artizans, and labourers, to receive and hus- 
 band any small funds which the emigrants may pos- 
 sess, and generally to supply a link in the chain, 
 which is at present assuredly Avanting. In this way, 
 communications might be made to the mother coun- 
 try of the probable supply required for the ensuing 
 season, and much distress and disappointment pre- 
 vented. It mfiy be said that Government has, at 
 this time, emigrant agents in Canada, and such is 
 truly the case. But these gentlemen are engaged in 
 mercantile pursuits, and are in many respects dis- 
 qualified for establishing that connection between the
 
 EMIGRATION. 311 
 
 colonists and emigrants, which, it is thought, may 
 be advantageously procured. 
 
 To some men, and those too of no ordinary stamp, 
 emigration, under any modification, is an object of 
 dismay. Viewing it as palpablo encouragement of 
 evil, which it professes to remove, they cannot be 
 induced to countenance it. It may be doubted, how- 
 ever, whether theory is not carried by such econo- 
 mists rather too far; and it is not unreasonable to 
 ho2)e, that, by taking off the surplus which so many 
 portions of our land present, a better system might 
 be introduced in regard to parish paupers, leading or 
 compelling the people to adopt that moral check, 
 which sound politicians and moralists agree can alone 
 effectually preserve the labouring classes in a whole- 
 some state of numbers, and tend to apportion the 
 supply of hands to the labour which is provided to 
 be done. The system of removing paupers to Ca- 
 nada has been already partially adopted by some 
 English parishes, and I had a personal opportunity 
 of witnessing the inadequacy of the arrangements, 
 in regard to a large party in Somersetshire, that 
 arrived in Quebec, while I was there, — I think there 
 were one hundred and fifty, seemingly of the class 
 of agricultural labourers, and they were under the 
 charge of a respectable parish overseer, whose duty 
 it was to have justice done to them on board ship, 
 and to land them at Montreal. There, they were to 
 be absolutely cast a-drift, each man receiving L.4; 
 but no arrangements having been contemplated for 
 locating them, or for providing work, they would
 
 312 YORKSHIRE EMIGRANT. 
 
 very quickly be relieved of their cash by the tavern- 
 keepers, and left <'estitute, a heavy burden to them- 
 selves, and a nuisance to the province. 
 
 Had the money been secured and judiciously ex- 
 pended, it would have sufficed to place them in com- 
 fort and independence. Some weeks after, I met 
 witli several of these poor fellows, in the Upper 
 Province, wandering about in search of service or 
 employment. 
 
 In this case, the fault lay in the system, not in the 
 emigrants; but there are innumerable instances, 
 where the emigrant has only to blame himself for 
 failure and disappointment. The history of a York- 
 shire farmer and his wife, who returned to Britain 
 in the same packet with myself, will, in some degree, 
 illustrate this position. An unmarried uncle, who 
 had emigrated to America, returned to England, for 
 the purpose of realizing a legacy, and gave such ac- 
 counts of Michigan (for it was in that land of pro- 
 mise the scene lay) as to induce this man and his 
 wife to emigrate also, about two years ago. He was 
 a stout, steady looking man, in the prime of life ; 
 the wife seemed very little calculated for encounter- 
 ing any hardship. Upon conversing with him, I 
 found him totally ignorant of the distinguishing 
 features of Michigan. He said land was " fair 
 enough ; that his uncle offered him eighty acres to 
 himself, but that it was not worth having; it was 
 no farm, it was all wild, and a loghouse (the wife 
 added) just fit for pigs." The uncle then proposed 
 
 • A pp. No. 2.
 
 EXPEDIENCY OF EMIGRATION. 313 
 
 to him to work his made farm, on shares, by which 
 he woiikl have had one-half to himself; but neither 
 did this suit his expectations. " He said that was 
 merely to make him toil like a slave, when his uncle 
 would live like a gentleman ; he had never been a 
 servant to any man, and he would not begin in 
 America, if he could find bread in England." 
 
 In short, a child died, the wife took a disgust at 
 the country, and here he was on his way home, after 
 spending time and money to no useful end. 1 am 
 not sure but there was a little of diamond cut 
 diamond in the family adventure, and that, while the 
 uncle perhaps looked on the nephew, as a likely fel- 
 low to manage his farm in Michigan, the other had 
 been making some shrewd speculations upon the 
 legacy of L. 1000, which had given immediate rise 
 to the emigration. 
 
 And now comes the important question for indi- 
 vidual consideration, " Is emigration expedient or 
 not ?" This must be decided by circumstances, and 
 every man must judge for himself. Of this, how- 
 ever, I think there can be no doubt, tliat either the 
 moderate capitalist, or the frugal, sober, and indus- 
 trious labourer or artisan cannot fail of success. 
 Fortunes will not be rapidly or even readily acquir- 
 ed ; but it must be the settler's own fault if he does 
 not enjoy, in large abundance, every solid comfort 
 and enjoyment of life, and rear around his table even 
 a forest of " Olive jylants," without one anxious 
 thought regarding their future destination or pro- 
 vision.
 
 APPENDIX.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 
 
 [From a small Tract of good authorit?/, published in the States.] 
 
 INIicHiGAN Territory is bounded east and north by the 
 
 >iational boundary Ime which separates it from Canada, west 
 by the Mississippi river, and south by Illinois, Indiana, and 
 Ohio. It is governed by a Governor, and Legislative Council, 
 composed of 13 members : the former is appointed by the Pre- 
 sident of the United States, with the advice and consent of the 
 Senate, and holds his office during their pleasure ; but the lat- 
 ter are elected every two years by the people ; compose one 
 House only, and are allowed to hold two sessions a-year, not ex- 
 ceeding thirty days each. The Territory is represented in Con- 
 gress by a Delegate, chosen once in two years, who is entitled to 
 the same pay as a member of the House of Representatives ; 
 but is not allowed to vote m that body. The expenses of the 
 government of the territory was paid by the United States ; but 
 the town and county charges are defrayed by a direct tax. 
 
 Population. — It is estimated by the most competent judges, to 
 contain, at present, about 35,000 inhabitants. Its rapid and in- 
 creasing tide of emigration is such, as to induce the belief, that 
 she is shortly destined to be admitted to an equal rank among 
 the political stars which adorn the American constellation. 
 Her present growth and increasing importance, may be measu- 
 rably attributed to the enterprising, active, and energetic talents 
 of her present chief magistrate, Lewis Cass, whose personal 
 exertions and enlightened policy, has not only facilitated its 
 settlement, but tended in a great measure to develope its va- 
 rious resources. That part of the territory immediately border-
 
 318 APPENDIX. 
 
 ing upon lakes Erie, St Clair, Huron, and their connecting 
 waters, is in general rather level, somewhat deficient in good 
 water, and for the most part heavily timbered. But as you ad- 
 vance in the interior, it becomes gently undulating, until it 
 terminates in rolling, heavy timbered land, of the first quali- 
 ty, interspersed with oak openings, plains, and occasionally 
 prairies. 
 
 The Plains are frequently covered with such a regular, beau- 
 tiful, and thrifty growth of timber, so free from underbrush, as 
 to wear the aspect of a cultivated forest. 
 
 They are more easily impro\'ed than the heavy timbered land, 
 and produce full as well. 
 
 The Openings are often rather deficient in timber, though they 
 are not unfre(|uently skirted with plains, or contain patches 
 of woodland, from which an ample supply may be obtained, 
 not only for fuel, but for buUding, fencing, and all other form- 
 ing purposes, if used with economy. They usually require but 
 little, and sometimes no labour to prepare them for the plough, 
 three or four yoke of cattle are found to be amply sufficient to 
 break them up the first time, after which they are cultivated 
 witli nearly as much ease as old improved lands. They are found 
 to be excellent for wheat, to improve by cultivation, and usual- 
 ly to produce a good crop of corn the first season. 
 
 The Prairies generally support a heavy growth of grass, are 
 free from timber, and may be divided into two classes. One is 
 called Dry, and the other is denominated Wet, Prairies. The 
 former possess a rich soil, are easily cultivated, and generally 
 yield in rich abundance almost every kind of produce which 
 might be expected to flourish in 42' north latitude, especially 
 those on St Joseph's river. And the latter often prove service- 
 able, not only in affording early pasture, but in sujjplying the 
 emigrant with the means of wintering his cattle ; and may, 
 with a little labour, frecjuently be made to yield an abundant 
 supply of excellent hay. The interior of the territory is well 
 watered with rivers, creeks and small lakes ; many of which 
 contain an unusual quantity of fish. There are several salt- 
 springs, which have not yet been tried nor improved, situate in 
 different parts of the territory, all of which have been reserved 
 by the United States ; but it is not certain that any of them
 
 TERRITORY OP MICHIGAN. 319 
 
 will prove very valuable ; yet it is more than probable, that by 
 boring a number of feet, the water would improve, and might 
 in some cases at least, not only justify the erection of extensive 
 works for the manufacture of salt, but prove also a source of re- 
 venue to the United States, as well as afford to the manufac- 
 turer, the means of accumulating wealth. 
 
 The surveyed part of the territory is laid out by the United 
 States into townships of six miles square, which are divided in- 
 to 36 sections or square miles, containing each 640 acres. These 
 are subdivided by imaginary lines, into quarter and half quar- 
 ter sections ; the latter of which contain each 80 acres, 
 is the smallest quantity sold by the United States, and may, 
 as well as the larger tracts, be selected by the purchaser. 
 Though there is a small tract of land which proves rather un- 
 healthy at the mouth of Huron, SaginaAv and Rouge rivers, as 
 well as at the mouth of Brownstown and Swan Creeks, owing to 
 the sluggishness of the water at the outlet of these streams ; 
 yet the climate of the surveyed part of the territory is not on- 
 ly mild but healthy, lying between 41° ZW, and 42° 34' north 
 latitude. The air is salubrious, and the water generally pure 
 and wholesome. The soil, which produces in rich abundance, 
 wheat, rye, barley, oats, peas, beans, Indian com, and potatoes, 
 as well as all kinds of vegetables, usually cultivated in the same 
 latitude, consists of such a variety, that it cannot fail to suit 
 the choice of almost every person in the pursuit of agriculture. 
 Fruit of course, has not yet been tested in the interior, for the 
 want of time, except peaches, which do exceedingly well ; but 
 if I may be permitted to draw an inference, from the quality of 
 the various kinds which grow in great abundance on the French 
 plantations, along the margin of Detroit river, as well as on 
 other parts of the great chain of navigable waters, then I pre- 
 sume I shall be allowed to say, that the soil of Michigan is equal 
 if not superior, for the production of fruit to that of any state 
 in the union. The pear-trees along this river, which were plant- 
 ed in the early settlement, by the French, are'remarkably large, 
 very tall, and extremely thrifty and beautiful ; and bear a most 
 delicious fruit, which generally sells from two to four shillings 
 per bushel. Apples, at Detroit, vary from twelve to fifty cents, 
 and may generally be procured by the bushel, for the latter
 
 320 APPENDIX. 
 
 price, even in winter. Cider in tlie fall is from one and a half 
 to two dollars per barrel, for the juice. Currants, blackberries, 
 black and red ras])berries and cheiTies, bring from three to 
 four cents per (juart ; though the earliest of these, as well as 
 whortle berries and strawberries, command sixj)ence. Plums 
 are scarce, because they have not been generally cultivated, 
 though they arc likewise found to do well. 
 
 The emigrants to the territory are mostly enterprising, indus- 
 trious farmers, who from not being allowed to purchase the land 
 on a credit, thereby become immediately the real owners of the 
 soil, and being free from debt, bid fair to become wealthy citi- 
 zens. They are mostly from the western part of New York, 
 though many are from the New England States. Every State 
 contributes more or less, and Ohio, for the last two years, not 
 a few. The price of unsold wild land is fi.xed and uniform, be- 
 ing D. 1. 25 • per acre ; the terms ready money, and the title 
 indisputable, as it comes direct from the United States, under 
 the seal of the President. The richest, most fertile, and per- 
 haps more beautiful part of the territory, is generally thought 
 to be adjacent to the St Joseph's river and its various branches ; 
 which, from present appearances, bids fair to become speedily 
 settled ; settlements began to form on it, a year before it was 
 offered for sale. It only came in market last May, and such 
 has been the influx of emigration to this part of the territory, 
 that the legislature in October last following, formed twelve 
 new counties, mostly thereon, and organized two of tiiat num- 
 ber. This part of the territory possesses several copious mill- 
 streams, particularly Hog Creek, the Dowagiake, Christianna, 
 Pigeon, Crooked and Portage rivers, a few of which have al- 
 ready been improved, by the erection of saw and grist mills — 
 The climate of this ])art of the territory, though mild, is appa- 
 rently more subject to wind than the valley of the Ohio river. 
 The prevailing winds is the south-west, and as it crosses a large 
 tract of prairie country in Illinois and Indiana, comes here with 
 much force, and in winter is somewhat piercing. Consider- 
 able snow falls, nevei'theless it is very favourable to wheat, rye, 
 potatoes, and turnips; and though not very adverse, yet not so 
 congenial as the valley of the Ohio river, to southern com, and 
 
 * 5s. 7jd. Sterling.
 
 TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 321 
 
 the more tender grains and esculents. Fruits, of course, have 
 not jet been cultivated here, except a few apples and peaches, 
 by the French, which appear to do well. 
 
 The Prairies in this quarter are of the richest soil, and may 
 be ploughed in two days after the frost leaves the ground in 
 the spring. They usually produce 30 or 40 bushels of wheat 
 to the acre ; and from 30 to 80 of corn have been raised from 
 the same quantity of ground, in all the prairies that have as 
 yet been occupied : 400 acres of corn were cultivated on Beard- 
 sley's prairie last year, which having been improved the year 
 before averaged 50 to the acre. These prairies not unfrequent- 
 ly produce 30 or 40 bushels of corn to the acre the first season, 
 without being ploughed or hoed after planting. The surveyed 
 part of the territory is divided into two United States' land dis- 
 tricts, containing each one land-ofRce ; one of which is situate 
 at Detroit, the other at St Joseph's. The seat of government 
 for the territory is the city of Detroit. It is pleasantly situa- 
 ted on Detroit river, between Lakes Erie and St Clair, about 25 
 miles from the former, and 7 from the latter, in latitude 42° 1 8' 
 north, and longitude 6° 10' west from Washington city, con- 
 taining at present about 2500 inhabitants, many of whom are 
 French. It is daily improving, and is destined to be one of the 
 most important ports on the north western frontiers, not only on 
 account of the safety and commodiousness of its harbour, but also 
 in consequence of its extensive inland commercial advantages, 
 as it possesses steam-boat and sloop navigation to Buffalo, Sault 
 de Ste, Marie, Michillimackinac, Green Bay, and Chicago, 
 
 Public Buildings. — It contains a court-house, jail, academy, 
 council-house, and two banks ; a Presbyterian, an Episcopalian, 
 Methodist, Baptist, and Catholic church ; an arsenal, maga- 
 zine, and commissary store-house. The rivers Grand, St Jo- 
 seph, llaisin, Huron, Clinton, Rouge Kalamazoo, and Shiawas- 
 see, interlockmg in different parts of the territory, not only ir- 
 rigate the country in a beautiful manner, but offer unparalleled 
 inducements for canalling, and with comparatively but little ex. 
 pense, as there would be no mountains, nor probably rock 
 strata, to cut through. It is already in contemplation, by means 
 of the Grand River, and Clinton, or the St Joseph's and Raisin, 
 to open a water communication across the Peninsula, by means 
 
 X
 
 322 APPENDIX. 
 
 of a canal, which would tenninate at Detroit or ^fonroe ; and 
 probably at no very distant period, it will not only be under- 
 taken,biit will be accomjjlished in such a manner, as to accommo- 
 date both those places in this respect. A company was incor- 
 porated by an act of the Lejrislature last fall, under the title of 
 the " Summit Portage Canal and lload Company," with a ca- 
 pital of D. 10,000, to be divided into 1000 shares of D. 10 each, 
 for the purpose of cutting a canal west of Lake ^Michigan, to 
 connect the Fox and Ouisconsin rivers, at what is usually term- 
 ed the Portage of the Ouisconsin, and to construct a turnpike 
 road on said Portage, parallel to said canal ; and also to con- 
 struct another turnpike road from the lower extremity of the 
 rapids of the Kaukaunin, on the east side of Fox River, on the 
 most direct and eligible route, to Winnebago lake, and for the 
 erection of piers, wharfs, warehouses, and other j)ublic build- 
 ings and improvements, in and about said canal and turnpike, 
 for commercial purposes. ^Michigan extends at present west 
 to the Mississippi river ; but it is expected the territory will 
 shortly be divided, and a new ten-itory set otf west of Lake 
 Michigan, and organized by the name of Ouisconsin or Huron. 
 — This territory was originally owned and occupied by emigrants 
 fi'om France, consequently the old inhabitants or first settlers 
 are mostly French. 
 
 V/ayne Couvty contains about 7^00 inhabitants, many 
 of whom are French. Its seat of justice is Detroit. Hamtranck, 
 Detroit, and Springwells. These towns, which lie in the north- 
 east part of the county, border on Detroit river, and are rather 
 level, and but poorly supplied with water. The northern part of 
 the two latter is somewhat broken by marsh and wet jirairie ; but 
 near the centre of Springwells is a tract, containing some ex- 
 cellent arable land not yet entered, lying within from 6 to 10 
 miles of Detroit, where a new settlement has recently been form- 
 ed, and through whidi a road has lately been ojiened, leading 
 from Detroit to Farmington. The towns of Pekin, Nankin, and 
 Plymouth, are well supplied with water by the River llouge and 
 its various branches, which atfbrd several eligible mill sites, and 
 which have already been advantageously improved b}- the erec- 
 tion thereon of saw and grist mills. Pekin is heavily timber-
 
 TERRITORY OP MICHIGAN. 323 
 
 eJ with white and black ash, white and black oak, beech, maple, 
 and sugar tree. The land is rolling, and the soil rich and fer- 
 tile, consisting of sand, loam, and some clay. The northern and 
 southern part of the town of Nankin has much the same appear- 
 ance as Pekin, though the soil is more sandy, and requires less 
 labour to cultivate it ; yet it yields quite as well, but the mid- 
 dle is plains and openings, of an inferior quality of soil. Ply- 
 mouth has likewise a similar appearance to Pekin, though the 
 northern part is more rolling, yet even here the timber is the 
 same, with the addition of black walnut ; but the soil is general- 
 ly of a superior quality. 
 
 Huron. — This town is watered by a delightsome river, of the 
 same name, whose waters are very transparent and abound with 
 fish. It runs through the town diagonally, exhibiting in many 
 places rich bottomed lands, often bounded on one or both sides 
 by high sloping banks, and not unfrequently skirted with beau- 
 tiful plains. Though a great portion of this township is rather 
 destitute of running streams, yet the soil in general is fertile, and 
 for the most part easily cultivated. The eastern part is oak 
 openings, and plains of a good quality, mterspersed with groves 
 of heavy timber, which often contain a small black ash swamp, 
 and sometimes a wet or dry prairie ; but the south part is ge- 
 nerally heavily tmibered with white and black ash, Avhite oak, 
 beech, and maple, with occasionally a white wood. The south- 
 west corner is low land, and contains a large wet prairie. 
 
 Broumstown is watered by the Huron River, Muddy and 
 Brownstown Creeks. The north-western part of this town is but 
 poorly watered, and exhibits alternately oak openings, plains 
 and prairies, occasionally interspersed with groves of heavy tim- 
 ber. The south-eastern part is rather level and heavily timber- 
 ed, except small tracts at the mouths of the Huron lliver 
 and Brownstown Creek, which consist of prairies that are more 
 or less inundated with water. 
 
 Moiitgnagon — This town embraces Gross' Isle, and is situate 
 on Detroit river. It is gently undulating, possesses a fine quar- 
 ry of limestone, and a rich soil, supporting a thrifty and heavy 
 growth of white oak, hickory, beech, maple, white and black ash. 
 
 MaNROE County contains a popv.lation of about 4000, 
 
 x2
 
 324 APPENDIX. 
 
 many of whom arc French. There are three villages in this 
 county, namely, jMonroe, Frenchtown, and Port Lawrence. 
 Tlie first of these, which is tlie Scat of Justice for the county, 
 is a flourishintr village, situate on the Uiver JJaisiii, about six 
 miles from Lake Erie, and thirty-six south from Detroit. The 
 United States' turnj)ike, from the latter place to the Ohio State 
 line, passes through it, and here was situated the bank of 
 Monroe. It possesses an ample supjjly of water-power for pro- 
 pelling hydraulic machinery, a part of which has already been 
 converted to the use of saw and grist mills, as well as to the 
 use of macliines for cardin<j and dressing cloth. 
 
 The United States have made a survey of Plaisance Bay 
 Harbour, at the mouth of the river, Avith a view of improving 
 the same. JMonroe is now the second village in the peninsula, 
 as regards population ; and should they succeed in forming a 
 good harbour at the mouth of the river, as it possesses water 
 power, it may yet equal, if not rival Detroit. This county is 
 generally well watered : the north-easteni part is rather level 
 and heavily timbered ; but the western and southern part is 
 rolling land, alternately abounding in jirairies, openings, or 
 heavy groves of timber. The soil of this county is uniformly 
 rich, and of a very superior quality. 
 
 AVasutenaw Couvty contains about 4000 inhabitants, 
 who ai-e, with a few exceptions, Americans. Its Seat of Jus- 
 tice is Annarbour, a village of five years growth, situate on the 
 llivcr Huron, forty miles west of Detroit, containing about 
 ninety dwelling-houses. Ypsilanti, the second village in the 
 county as to population, is likewise situate on the Huron, about 
 ten miles below Aimarliour, at the place where the United 
 States turnpike, from Detroit to Chicago, crosses the same. 
 
 This county contains twelve mercantile establishments, three 
 distilleries, one fanning-mill factory, one pail-factory, one gun- 
 smith, one waggon-muker, five flouring mills, thirteen saw 
 mills, and two machines for carding and dressing cloth. It 
 abounds in select and common schools, and contains many me- 
 chanics. Its surface is gently imdulating and l)eautiful ; and 
 its soil prolific, consisting of a deep black sand, loam, and some 
 clay. It exhibits, in succession, beautiful prairies, oak open-
 
 TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 325 
 
 ings, and heavy groves of timber, consisting of white, red, and 
 black oak, beech, wahiut, whitewood, bass, ehn, maple, and 
 butternut, interspersed with almost all other kinds that usu- 
 ally grow in 42° of north latitude, evergreen excepted. The 
 Iliver Huron, of Lake Erie, meanders through the centre of it 
 north and south ; is navigable for boats and rafts to the Lake, 
 and with its several branches waters the middle ; the head wa- 
 ters of the Shiawassee, the North, and the rivers Raisin and 
 Saline and their branches, the south part of said county. It 
 has numerous and extensive water privileges for facilitatmg 
 manufactures. 
 
 Macomb County contains about 2500 inhabitants, a con- 
 siderable number of whom are French. The north-eastern and 
 eastern part of this county is in general rather level, and for 
 the most pai't heavily timbered : yet it is sufficiently uneven 
 to drain off and leave no stagnant waters ; but the western part 
 is rolling land, somewhat broken, being very hilly and uneven, 
 and consisting of oak openings, plains, and some prairie land. 
 
 The plains are remarkably free from underbrush, and are, 
 as well as the prairies and openings, very rich and fertile, pro- 
 ducing not only wheat, but every other kind of grain in rich 
 abundance. The Clinton River, together with its numerous 
 tributaries, irrigate this county iii a beautiful manner. It 
 possesses advantages over many of the peninsular counties, on 
 account of its proximity to the great chain of navigable ivaters. 
 It fronts on Lake St Clair, and the River CHnton, which runs 
 through the entire county, nearly in the centre, may easily be 
 rendered navigable for batteaux, as high up as Rochester; 
 and for the accomplishment of which, a company has already 
 been formed, and were incorporated last fall, by an act of the 
 legislature. This river is now navigable to Mt. Clemens, for 
 vessels of considerable burthen ; and when the obstructions at 
 the mouth of the river are removed, for which object an appli- 
 cation has been made to Congress for an appropriation, then any 
 vessel or steam-boat on the lake may come up to the village, a 
 distance of six miles, by water. 
 
 This county is very well supplied with water-power : it has 
 now in operation seven saw-mills, and two grist-mills, and em-
 
 326 APPENDIX. 
 
 braces four stores, three distilleries, two asheries, and six black- 
 smith shops. Its Seat of Justice is Mt. Clemens, a Nourishing 
 village situiite on the Clinton Kiver, at the place where the 
 United States road from Detroit to Ft. CIratiot crosses the 
 same. It lies four and a half miles frcmi the lake, by land, and 
 twenty north-eastwardly from Detroit. 
 
 Washhifjtoii This townshij) lies in the northwest corner of 
 
 the county, and consists principally of oak o])cnings and plains, 
 though it has some prairie land. The openings and plains are 
 extremely free from under])rush, and prove to be excellent for 
 the cultivation of wheat. The south part is rolling land, exhi- 
 biting a rich, and for the most part a sandy soil, though it is 
 sometimes composed of sand and loam intermixed ; but the north 
 part is what is commonly called broken land, being very hilly 
 and uneven, and not unfrequently exhibits granitic boulders 
 in great plenty. 
 
 Shelby and Kay. — These consist principally of gently undulat- 
 ing and heavy timbered land, intersj)ersed occasionally with oak 
 openings. They are well watered, and possess a very productive 
 soil. 
 
 Harrison This township is in general rather level, and the 
 
 north part, though somewhat swampy, is susceptible of being 
 converted into excellent meadow. 
 
 Clinton. — Thistownshi])j)ossessesgenerallyarich soil,is heavi- 
 ly timbered, and embraces a marsh or wet prairie of considerable 
 extent on its eastern border adjacent to the lake shore, the 
 greater part of which, however, if jjroperly ditched, would 
 prove to be good natural meadow. The northern part of the 
 town is gently undulating, and well supplied with water, of 
 which the southern part is too deficient, being rather level. 
 
 Oakland County contains about COOO inhabitants, all 
 American. It has three villages, each with a mill on their 
 borders, namely, Pontiac, Auburn, and Kochester ; the first 
 of which is the Seat of Justice for the count}', and is situate 
 twenty-eight miles northwest of Detroit on the Clinton lliver, 
 where the United States road from Detroit to Saginaw crosses 
 the same. This county presents a great variety of soil, and upon 
 examination, will be found to suit the choice of almost every per-
 
 TERRITORY OP MICHIGAN. 327 
 
 son ill the pursuit of agriculture. The Rivers Clinton, Rouge, 
 and Huron, interlocking in different parts, extend their many 
 branches, and irrigate the county in a beautiful manner. 
 
 Troy, — Which embraces townships one and two, south, in 
 range eleven east, is situate in the south-east quarter of the 
 county, and is principally timbered land. Township 2 is en- 
 tirely of this description, is heavily wooded with black and 
 white wahiut, linden, white, red, and black oak, and the westerly 
 half is of that description usually denominated rolling timbered 
 land, and in quality of soil is not surpassed by any in the ter- 
 ritory ; but township 1 is of that description called plains, in- 
 terspersed with marshes, and is of an inferior quality. 
 
 Blomnfield.—^\i\s, township presents a variety of soil which may 
 be divided into three classes, — oak openuigs, plains, and timbered 
 land. The country in the neighbourhood of the lakes is oak 
 openings, not so good for grass, but producing wheat in rich 
 abundance. I would mention, that two farmers in the vicinity 
 of Wing Lake, harvested 130 acres of excellent wheat the past 
 season. The north of Bloomfield is of this description, but the 
 south part is timbered land. 
 
 Pontiac. — This town is generally oak openings of a good 
 quality, but inferior to the lands of Bloomfield. 
 
 Oaklmid. — The south part of this town is timbered land with 
 a rich soil, and the north part plains and openings of a good 
 quality. 
 
 The township of Troy is watered by a branch of the Rouge, 
 and the branches of Red River which empty into the Clinton. 
 Bloomfield is watered by three branches of the Rouge, which, 
 meandering through the county, enable every farmer to partake 
 of their privileges. The townships of Pontiac and Oakland are 
 watered by the Clinton River, Paint and Stony Creeks, and the 
 extreme branches of the Huron. AU these streams possess 
 great privileges for hydraulic machinery. Pontiac and Oakland 
 now contain twelve saw-mills, four flouring mills, three fulling 
 mills, three carding machines, and one woollen factory. In 
 Bloomfield are four saw-miUs, and one grist-mill. In Farming- 
 tong, two saw-miUs and one grist-mill. Perhaps no country of 
 like extent, so level, possesses more water power.
 
 328 APPENDIX. 
 
 St Clair County possesses great commercial advantages, 
 as it lies on the great chain of navigable waters. It is bounded 
 east by Lake Huron and the lliver Sin Clair, which separates 
 it from Canada ; south by Lake St Clair and the county of 
 Macomb ; west by the counties of Macomb and Lapeer, and 
 north by Sanilac. Black, Pine, and Eellc Rivers, Mill Creek, 
 and their branches, as well as several smaller streams, water 
 this county. The first of these streams is navigable for vessels 
 of considerable burthen, as far up as Mill Creek ; but Belle 
 and Pine Rivers are ascended only a very short distance in 
 batteaux. This county is generally rather level, the eastern 
 and southern part is gently undulating, ridi, fertile, and mostly 
 heavy timbered, though there is occasionally some prairie land 
 on the border of Lake St Clair, and along the southern margin 
 of Sin Clair River. The northern and western part of this 
 county is comparatively of a light, and for the most part sandy, 
 soil, though tolerably productive, and interspersed with swamps 
 and low land. A great proportion of the timber in this quarter 
 is pine, though it is often intermixed with hard wood, and not 
 unfrequently interspersed with groves of tamerack, in some in- 
 stances with spruce, and often on the shore of Lake Huron, 
 with red and white cedar. 
 
 There are now in operation in this county, several of the 
 u.ost extensive saw-mills in the territory, which are constantly 
 eno-aged in manufactui-ing pine boards, planks, &c., and which, 
 together with shingles, constitute at present the principal arti- 
 cle of trade in the county. And as lumber may be conveyed 
 from this county by water to any port, not only on the great 
 lakes, but on their connecting waters, therefore the i)ine timber 
 must ultimately become very valuable. Almost all the pine 
 now used at Detroit for building, comes from this county, as it 
 is the only one in the surveyed part of the territory that is 
 well supplied with this valuable building material. The United 
 States road from Detroit to Ft. C;ratiot, runs through the centre 
 of this county, and about twelve miles west of the village of 
 Palmer, which is the Seat of Justice for the county; and whidi 
 is situate at the junction of Pine and Sin Clair Rivers, about 
 twelve miles south of Ft. Gratiot, and sixty by water, north-east 
 <rf Detroit.
 
 TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 
 
 329 
 
 St Joseph's County is perhaps the best in the territory, 
 both as to water privileges and the fertility of its soil. It is 
 watered by the St Joseph's River, and its various branches, 
 many of which afford numerous water privileges, particularly 
 Hog" Creek, Pigeon, Portage, and Crooked Rivers, which may 
 be considered copious and excellent mill-streams. A saw-mill 
 has already been put in operation on Crooked River, and several 
 others have been commenced on the same creek, and about 
 Pigeon Prairie. The water in this county is uniformly pure 
 and healthy, the climate mild, and the face of the country 
 moderately undulating ; consisting principally of oak openings 
 and prairies. There is, however, a sufficiency of timber in it 
 generally, and from the Grand Traverse on the northwest side 
 of the River St Joseph's, as high up, 1 believe, as Portage River, 
 is a belt of excellent timbered land, which is well supplied with 
 water. The principal prairies in this country are, Sturges, 
 Nottawa, Sepee, and White Pigeon. The first of these, Stur- 
 ges Prairie, has a beautiful appearance, and is exuberant in 
 fertility, but is not convenient for water, and but tolerably so 
 to good timber ; a few families are located on it. Nottawa 
 Sepee, part of which is embraced within the Indian reserve, is 
 an excellent prairie, and settlements have commenced on it. 
 But Pigeon Prairie is the most valuable one in the St Joseph's 
 county, as well as the most densely peopled, and perhaps it 
 wlU not be deemed invidious to say it is the best settlement in 
 the St Joseph's county, whether we regard the number of its 
 inhabitants, or their intelligence and wealth. The soil of these 
 prairies may be considered equal to that of any land in the 
 United States. The usual mode of cultivating these, as well 
 as all other prairies, in the vicinity of the River St Joseph's, is 
 to break up the soil immediately with the plough, at the same 
 time dropping the corn on the edge of the furrow, in such a man- 
 ner that it may be covered by the succeeding one, in this man- 
 ner without any other cultivation, they often produce from 
 thirty to fifty bushels of corn to the acre the first season, though 
 sometimes it becomes necessary to go through and cut down 
 some of the rankest weeds. The counties of Kalamazoo, 
 Calhoun, Branch, Barry, and Eaton, and all the country north 
 of township 4, north ; west of the principal meridian, south
 
 330 APPENDIX. 
 
 of the county of Michiliniackinac, and east of the line between 
 ranges twelve and tliirteen west, and of Lake IVIichigan, is 
 attached to St Joseph's. 
 
 Cass Couxty contains a population of about 2000, and is 
 likewise watered by the St Josl'])1i's River and its branches, 
 several of wliicii atibrd good mill privileges, particularly the 
 Dowagiake and Christianna, which are rapid and durable 
 streams. A mill has already been erected, and is now in opera- 
 tion on the Clirislianna, near Young's Prairie. 
 
 The face of this county is similar to that of St Joseph's 
 county ; though some part is undulating, yet in general it is 
 level ; sufficiently uneven, however, to di-ain off, and leave no 
 stagnant waters. The timber is principally oak, ash, elm, 
 sugar-tree, cherry, black and white walnut, and hickory, with 
 a variety of other kinds intermixed. The country is generally 
 open, and you can ride willi a wheel-carriage through the 
 woodland, with almost the same ease you can do over the 
 prairies, being not in the least interrupted with underbrush. 
 In every part of the county the roads are good. Though some 
 parts of it are but thinly timbered, yet along the Dowagiake, 
 from its source to its mouth, thei'e is a broad belt of excellent 
 timbered and very rich land, from one to several miles wide ; 
 aLso along the upper portion of the Christianna, extending north 
 of its source, and tlience across to the Dowagiake, is a fine belt 
 of wood land. This county includes within its boundaries the 
 following prairies, namely. Four jNIile, Beardsley, Townsend's, 
 M'Kenny's, La Grange, Pokagon, and Young's, besides several 
 smaller ones, not, however, known by any particular name. 
 The prairies here are of the richest soil ; — may be ploughed in 
 two days after the frost leaves the ground in spring, and fre- 
 quently produce thirty or forty bushels of corn to the acre, the 
 first season, without being j)loughed or hoed after planting. 
 The tliree last mentioned jjrairies are conveniently situate to 
 mill streams, and principally surrounded with heavy timbered 
 land, but tliey are nearly' all taken up by purchasers. Four- 
 Mile Prairie is not so ha])pily situate with regard to mills or 
 timbered land ; but nevertheless is fast filling up. From 
 thirty to eighty bushels of corn, and forty of wheat, are usu-
 
 TERRITORY OP MICHIGAN. 331 
 
 ally raised from an acre in all the prairies, where the soil has 
 been subdued by previous cultivation. Every other kind of 
 grain as well as vegetables are produced in about the same 
 proportion. 
 
 The only town yet laid out in this county is Edwardsburgh, 
 which is the temporary county seat. It is situate on the bor- 
 der of Pleasant Lake, and on the northeast corner of Beardsley's 
 Prairie. The United States road from Detroit to Chicago 
 passes through it, as well as the road from Et Wayne to Poka- 
 gon, to Nile's, to Young's, and to Townsend's Prairies, and to 
 CoquUlard in Indiana. All these places, except Ft. Wayne, are 
 situate within ten miles of it. From the town Piatt, or village, 
 you have a view, not only of the prairie, but also of Pleasant 
 Lake. The prairie is four miles in extent, and the lake covers 
 about 100 acres. Fish are abundant in all the streams and 
 small lakes ; forty-three that would weigh from one to three 
 pounds, were caught with a hook and line in Pleasant Lake by 
 two persons in thirty minutes. The water in this lake is very 
 pure ; you can see the bottom where the depth of the water is 
 fifteen feet. The country is healthy, several large families 
 who settled here before the land was offered for sale, and who 
 have resided here for three years, have not had a case of fever 
 nor any other kind of sickness, except what has resulted from 
 accident. 
 
 The counties of Berrien and Van Buren, and all the country 
 north of the same to Lake Michigan, are attached at present to 
 Cass county. 
 
 Berrien County, not organized, has in it a large propor- 
 tion of superior timbered land, but has no prairies of much im- 
 portance. The settlements in this county, though few, are 
 scattered along the river, and the population does not exceed 
 thirty-five families. But from the nature of the country, I am 
 inclined to believe it will be the most populous county on the 
 St Joseph's. 
 
 The rich timbered land, though now avoided for the prairies, 
 will ultimately be in demand, and will afford many dense and 
 excellent settlements. Through the timbered land in this 
 county, run several small creeks, which, with theu- numerous
 
 332 APPENDIX. 
 
 branches, afford an additional convenience to the farmer which 
 he cannot enjoy in the prairies nor in the barrens. Besides 
 the heavy timbered and ))rairie land, there are large tracts of 
 what are here called barrens, being of a light soil, compara- 
 tively speaking, though tolerably productive, and which are 
 thinly covered with white and black oak, sometimes of stinted 
 gi'owlli, but mostly of a handsome and useful size. The soil of the 
 barrens is generally a fine sand, mixed with decayed vegetables, 
 and sometimes gravelly, with here and there a granitic boulder. 
 The soil of the timbered land is of a loose sandy nature, black 
 with fertility, and eminently adajited to culture. That of the 
 prairies is nearly of the same nature, after the sod has been re- 
 duced by repeated ploughing. In the timbered land we find 
 white and bhick walnut, several kinds of ash, also oak, poplar, 
 lynn, beech, elm, hickory, sugai'-tree, &c. The south-east part 
 of this county is well supplied with water, and possesses seve- 
 ral mill sites, some of which have already been improved. 
 Ford's saw and grist mill, on the Dowagiake, have been for 
 some time in operation. There is also a saw-mill just ready 
 to commence operation at the mouth of the Dowagiake, and 
 several otliers have been commenced on the same stream. 
 There is but one village regularly laid out in this county, 
 which is called Niles. It is situate on the St Joseph's, a short 
 distance above the confluence of the Dowagiake with that river. 
 The first framed house in it was erected in December last. 
 Next summer it is expected there will be considerable building 
 there. Last season, though there were no accommodation, yet 
 by far the greatest portion of merchandize, &c., destined for 
 the St Josei)h's country, when conveyed by water, was landed 
 thei'e. Next spring will be l)uilt two warehouses ; there are 
 now two stores and a post-olHce. Post offices have been esta- 
 blished at the mouth of the St Joseph's, called Saranac, at 
 Pokogon, south-west corner of town 6 south of ranges 16 
 west, at I.agrange in the middle of town six south of range 
 15 west, at Pigeon Prairie, at Sturges Prairie, and at the Grand 
 Traverse. 
 
 liAPEER, Shiawassee, and Saginaw — These counties are 
 not yet organized, are attached to Oakland county, and em-
 
 TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 333 
 
 braced within the limits of the township of Pontiac. There are 
 no inhabitants in Lapeer, and but few settlers at present in Sagi- 
 naw and Shiawassee. The face of these two counties is very 
 similar to Oakland. 
 
 Saginaw — Is watered by the Shiawassee, Flint, Cass, Titti- 
 bawassee, and Hare rivers. The most of these streams are 
 navigable for boats ; their junction form the Saginaw River, 
 which is navigable for sloops 20 miles to the village which 
 bears the same name, and which is to be the seat of justice for 
 said county. The United States have established a canton- 
 ment here, and laid out a road from this place to Detroit, 
 which is not yet finished. When this is completed, it is more 
 than probable that it will settle as speedily as any county in 
 the territory, as the soil is very favourable to agriculture. 
 
 Shiawassee The soil of this county is rich, and the face 
 
 of the country gently undulating, in some instances rolling, ex- 
 hibiting oak openings and heavy groves of timber. The Shia- 
 wasse Iviver, which is a beautiful meandering stream, and navi- 
 gable for boats and rafts to the lake, with its several branches, 
 waters the middle and south-east part ; the head branches of 
 Grand and Lookmg-glass rivers the south-west part ; and 
 Swartz's Creek, the Flint and Mistegayock rivers, the north- 
 east part of said country. 
 
 Calhoux. — This county is not yet organized, and is attach- 
 ed to St Joseph's. It is well supplied with water by the Kala- 
 mazoo and St Joseph's rivers, and their branches. The Kala- 
 mazoo is a beautiful stream of pure water, quite rapid, but, 
 nevertheless, navigable for boats from Lake Michigan to its 
 forks near the county Ime between this and Jackson. This 
 river and its branches afford miU privileges in great numbers. 
 The soil in general is rich and fertile, and the face of the coun- 
 try moderately undulating, consisting principally of burr oak 
 openings, which are frequently interspersed with prairies. In 
 the south-west part of the county is a small tract of pine timber. 
 
 Jackson. — This county is not yet organized, and is attach, 
 ed to Whastenaw. The west-half oi it is undulating, and con- 
 sists principally of burr and white oak openings, interspersed
 
 334 APPENDIX. 
 
 occasionally with praii-ies. It abounds in springs, and possesses 
 a fertile soil. The norlh-eust part is heavily timbered, and some- 
 what intersected with marshes and small lakes. The soil, how- 
 ever, of this part is rich, and well adapted for meadow. Grand 
 River is an excellent stream of pure water, quick, yet navi- 
 gable for canoes, from its junction with its south branch, quite 
 through the county and to the Lake Michigan. 
 
 Kalamazoo.— This county is not 3'et organized, and is at- 
 tached to St Joseph's. The face of this county in general is 
 moderately undulatuig, though sometimes rolling. It exhibits 
 j)rincipally burr oak openings, interspersed with rich fertile 
 and dry jirairies, and not unfrequently intersected with groves 
 of first-rate timbered land. The character of the soil is in gene- 
 ral either a black sand or a rich loam. In the south-east cor- 
 ner of this county is an excellent tract of woodland, covered 
 witli a heavy but beautiful grove of sugar niajjle. Gull and 
 Round Prairies are the two largest in this county, and are 
 equal to any in the territory for beauty and fertility. The 
 first of these, Gull Prairie, is situate in the vicinity of a beauti- 
 ful lake, as well as adjacent to the margin of a romantic creek, 
 both of which bear the same name. This lake is about four 
 miles long, and its waters, which are very transparent, are said 
 to contain white fish. The creek is very raj)id, and atibrds hy- 
 draulic privileges equal to any in the territory. Prairie Ronde, 
 which lies in the south-west part of the comity, is about four 
 miles broad, and is j)rinci ally surrounded with woodland: near 
 its centre there is a beautii'ul grove of timber, of about a mile 
 in diameter, consisting of sugar maple, black walnut, and hicko- 
 ry. This county is well supj)lied with water. Tlie Kalama- 
 y,oo River, which runs through it, is a rapid meandering stream, 
 yet navigable for boats. Its surface is frequently chequered 
 with islands, and its banks occasionally broken. 
 
 Branch This county is attached to St Joseph's. A large 
 
 proportion of it, particularly tlie southern part, is heavily tim- 
 bered land, consisting principally of black and wliite walnut, 
 sugar maple, white wood, lynn, and some other kinds in small- 
 er quantities. The Chicago road, which runs through the
 
 TERRITORY OP 3IICHIGAN. 335 
 
 northern part of this county, passes principallv through oak 
 openings, which are occasionally intersected with prairies. 
 
 Hillsdale. — This county is attached to Lenawee. The 
 north part of it is principally oak opening;; of a good quality, 
 but the southern part is heavily wooded with sugar maple, 
 white wood, beech, black walnut, ash, &c. The face of this 
 count}' is rather uneven, and the soil in general consists of a 
 rich black loam. The southern part is timbered land, and is 
 heavily wooded with sugar maple, white wood, beech, black 
 walnut, ash, &c. This county is well supplied with water. 
 The St Joseph's of Lake ^Michigan, as well as che St Joseph's of 
 Maumee, the Grand Iliver, TiMin's, and the River Kaisin, all 
 head in this county, and with their numerous branches water 
 it in a beautiful manner. 
 
 Lenawee Coukty contains at present about 1500 inhabi- 
 tants. The northern part of this county has much the same 
 appearance as WhastenaW, but the southern part is principally 
 timbered land. It contams a tamerack swamp of considerable 
 extent in the south-east comer, yet, notwithstanding the cha- 
 racter of its soil and climate, is generally very inviting. 
 
 It is principally watered by the Ottawa Creek, Tiffin's and 
 Raisin Rivers, and their branches. It contains two villases. 
 each with a mill on their borders, namely, Tecumseh and Adri- 
 an,— the former of which is the seat of Justice for the county. 
 It is situate at the junction of Landman's Creek with the Riv^er 
 Raisin, and lies about 55 miles south-west of Detroit. For a 
 description of Barry, Eaton, and Ingham counties, which lie on 
 Grand River and its tributaries, the reader is referred ^^to 
 the following, which is copied from the Detroit Gazette, in 
 which it first appeared under the signature of " Pioneer."' 
 
 Grand River empties into the east side of Lake Michigan, 
 about 245 miles south-westerly from Michilimackinac, and 75 
 north of the St Joseph's ; and is between 50 and GO rods wide 
 at its mouth, and of sufficient depth to admit vessels drawing 
 eight feet water. On its south bank, near its entrance into the 
 lake, is an eligible situation for a town, the land being excel-
 
 336 APPENDIX. 
 
 lent, and gently inclining towards the north and west, giving, 
 at the same time, a fine view both ot the river and lake ; but 
 the opposite shore at the same j)lace has a sandy sterile ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 For about sixty miles up the river on the north side, the Otta- 
 was hold jjosscssion. 'J'here are between eight and nine hun- 
 dred of these peojjle living along Grand River and its tributa- 
 ries, but many of their most populous villages are on lands 
 l>elonging to the United States. 
 
 This river is the largest stream that waters the west part of 
 the peninsula of Michigan, being liTO miles in length, its wind- 
 ings included, and navigable 240 miles for batteaux ; re- 
 ceiving in its course a great number of tributary streams, 
 among which are Portage, Ued-Cedar, Looking glass, Soft- 
 Maple, Muscota, Flat, Rouge, and Thorn-Apple rivers. All 
 of these, except the last named, put in on the right bank of 
 the Grand River. Its south branch rises in the open country, 
 near the sources of the Raisin, and, after pursuing a winding 
 course of thirty miles, meets with the Portage River, which 
 comes in from the east, and intersects the above branch in 
 town, two south of range one west. 
 
 Portage River, which has its course through a chain of low 
 marshy prairies, is a deep muddy stream, about fifteen yards 
 wide at its mouth. Its branches interlock with those of the 
 Huron of Lake Erie, and the Indians pass from the former into 
 the latter, with their canoes, by crossing a portage of one mile 
 and a half It is ])robable, that, at no distant period, a canal 
 will be constructed near the route of these two rivers, so as to 
 afford a safe and easy inland communication between Lakes 
 Erie and Michigan. The distance from Detroit to the mouth 
 of Grand River, by way of INIichilimackinac, is 560 miles. This 
 route in the spring and fall is attended with much uncertainty ; 
 and, in case of a war with the English, the navigation of the 
 Straits of Detroit and St Clair would be rendered doubly dan- 
 gerous. These difficulties would be obviated by a connnunica- 
 tion by water through the interior. The land at the Portage 
 rises 40 or nO feet above the level of the streams on each side ; 
 but a level prairie, two or three miles to the west of that place, 
 is said to extend from one river to the other.
 
 TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 337 
 
 From the junction of the Portage and south branches, this 
 river pursues a north-west course till it meets with Soft-Maple 
 River, m town seven north of range six west ; receiving, in 
 that distance, Red-Cedar and Looking-glass Rivers from the 
 east, and Grindstone, Red and Sebewa Creeks from the south 
 and south-west. 
 
 Grindstone Creek, so named from a sandstone ledge througii 
 which it runs, empties into the river about 20 miles below 
 the mouth of the Portage branch. It is 20 miles long, afford- 
 ing several good sites for mills, and runs mostly through an 
 open beautiful country ; but is in some instances skirted with 
 bottoms of heavy timbered land. 
 
 From the mouth of this creek to that of Looking-glass River, 
 a distance of 45 miles in a direct line, the Grand River rims 
 through a tract of timbered land, which is several miles in ex- 
 tent on each side, abounding in creeks and springs of excellent 
 water, and bearing a growth of maple, basswood, cherry, oak, 
 ash, white wood, elm, black walnut, butternut, and some other 
 kinds in lesser quantities. Below Looking-glass River, for 40 
 or 50 miles, tracts of open land are found along the banks, but 
 extensive forests immediately in the rear. The river bottoms 
 are from a quarter of a mile to one mile in width, and the tim- 
 ber-lands are covered with a rank growth of rushes (Er/uiseHim 
 hyemale)^ on which the Indians keep their horses during tlie 
 winter. It is found that cattle and horses do better on thesf 
 rushes than when kept on hay ; and it would seem, from their 
 abundance, that nature here intended them as a substitute for 
 that article. The surface of the land, after leaving the river 
 bottoms, is rolling ; and it rises sufficiently high to give rapidi- 
 ty to the numerous creeks that so abundantly irrigate this part 
 of the country. 
 
 Red-Cedar river is 35 yards wide, and puts in about mid- 
 way between Grindstone Creek and Looking-glass River. It 
 rises in Whastenaw and Shiawassee counties, and can be ascend- 
 ed in small boats 25 or 30 miles. A few miles below the 
 mouth of this stream is a ledge of sandstone, which Ibnns a 
 perpendicular waU of 25 or 30 feet in height on each side of 
 the river. This ledge consists of square blocks of stone of a 
 suitable size to be used in building, and which are renderetl
 
 338 APPENDIX. 
 
 more valuable, from the circumstance of their being on the 
 banks of a large navigable river, which, witli its tributaries, will 
 facilitate its transportation to various sections of the territory. 
 
 A bed of iron-ore has been discovered in the north-east bank 
 of the river, immediately below this ledge; and, indeed, many 
 of the stones in the lower part of the ledge have a great resem- 
 blance to blocks of cast iron, — presenting a rusty surface very 
 dense, and, when broken, have, in a striking degree, the colour 
 and aj)pearance of iron itself. 
 
 Four miles above the mouth of the Looking-glass River is 
 the village of P'Shimnacon (Apple Land), Avhich is inhabited 
 by eight or ten Ottawa families, who have a number of enclos- 
 ed fields, in which they raise corn, potatoes, and other vegeta- 
 bles usually cultivated by the Indians. The village receives 
 its name from the Pyrus coronaria (Crab Apple) which grows 
 in gi-eat abundance on the rich bottoms of the vicinity. Sebe- 
 wa Creek puts into the river on the south-west side one mile 
 above this village. It is about 20 miles long, sufliciently large 
 for mills, and, for the last four miles, is very rapid, with a hard 
 stony bottom. 
 
 liOoking-glass River, which is about 40 yards wide, rises in 
 Shiawassee county, and can be ascended in canoes almost to its 
 source. The country near this river, for 15 miles above its 
 mouth, is what may be tenned tirst-rate timbered land ; but, 
 above that point, it is of an inferior quality, more open, and 
 abounding in tamerac swamps and wet prairies. 
 
 It is about eight miles b\' land from the mouth of Looking- 
 glass to that of Soft-JNIaple River, which is about 60 yards 
 wide at its entrance into Grand River. It heads in Shiawassee 
 and Saginaw counties, and runs nearly a due west course until 
 it unites with (irand River at the Indian village of Chigau- 
 mishkene. This village consists of 25 houses, and has a 
 ))o])ulation of near 201) souls under the noted chief Cocoose. 
 Here is about 1000 acres of bottom land, of a deep black soil, 
 that has been cleared by the Indians, a part of which they 
 still occupy as planting grovmd ; but the land at this village, as 
 well as that at P'Shimnacon, has been ceded to the United 
 States, and will, no doubt, in a short time, be occupied b}' an 
 industrious white population. There is a large trail leading
 
 TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 339 
 
 fi'om this village, hy way of Sliiawassee to Detroit, a distance 
 of 130 miles. 
 
 The Grand River here changes its course ; and, with the 
 exception of twelve miles in length, below Rouge River, runs 
 nearly a west course, to Lake Michigan. 
 
 Two miles farther down, is the entrance of Muscota River 
 (River of the Plains), which comes in from the north with a 
 rapid current, and is about 40 feet wide. The country 
 through which it runs is but little known, as no lands have 
 been surveyed north of Grand River, below Soft-Maple. 
 
 It is eighteen miles by land from the mouth of Muscota to 
 that of Co-cob-au-gwosh, or Plat River, with several consider- 
 able creeks putting into Grand River, on each side, in the inter- 
 mediate distance. Ke-wa-goosh-cum's Indian village is situate 
 immediately below the mouth of Flat River, and consists of 
 16 lodges. It is supposed that the line between the United 
 States and the Indian lands will intersect the Grand River 
 near this place. 
 
 Flat River is a shallow stream, about 8 roods wide ; and, 
 in ascending, has a general course of north by north-east. Of 
 the country along this river, but little is at present known. It 
 is reported, however, to be of a hilly broken aspect, and many 
 places near its source to abound in lakes and swamps. There 
 is a small lake that discharges its waters into this river, about 
 CO miles above its mouth, in which it is said by the Indians 
 that white fish are found in great numbers, — a circumstance 
 that is rendered more extraordinary, from the fact, that this 
 fish has never been seen near the mouth of Grand River; 
 although it is often taken near the entrances of most of the 
 other tributai-ies of Lake ^Michigan. 
 
 It is 10 miles from Flat to Thorn-Apple River, which comes 
 in from the south, and, with its numerous tributaries, waters 
 a large extent of country. Its main branch rises in towns two 
 and three north of range three west, and, after running a wes- 
 terly course for more than 40 miles, it takes a northward direc- 
 tion, in which it continues until it empties into Grand River, 
 in the south part of town seven north of range two west. 
 
 There is a suitable proportion both of open and timber land 
 along this stream, and a great part of each kind may be termed 
 
 y2
 
 340 APl'KNDIX. 
 
 first rate. Two Indian villages are situated at the distance of 
 20 and 2(i miles up tiiis river, and another at its inouth, under 
 the Ottawa chief Nong-gee. The last mentioned village is in- 
 hahited by twelve or fourteen families, who are, by far, the 
 most industrious and respectable band that reside in that i)art 
 of the country. 
 
 llouge Iliver is 20 miles, including the meanderings, north- 
 west of Thorn-Apple Iliver. It is about 40 miles long, rising 
 near the sources of the ISIaskegon, and has its banks shaded by 
 lofty forests of white pine. From this place to Muck-a-ta-sha's 
 village, a distance of 12 miles, the Grand Iliver pursues a 
 south direction, after which it runs nearly a due west course to 
 Lake Michigan. 
 
 Six miles above the mouth of the last mentioned inlet, is a 
 rapid of 1 mile in length, where the river, which is here 
 52 roods wide, is supjjosed to full 25 feet. The banks at the 
 head of the rapid are not more than 4 feet above the level of 
 the river, and they keep a horizontal level until you arrive at 
 the foot of the rapid, where they are nearly 30 feet al)ove the 
 water ; and, consequently, ati'ord convenient opportunities for 
 profitably appropriating a part of the river, by means of a canal 
 or sluice, to the use of mills or machinery. 
 
 There is a Missionary establishment at (the Thomas station) 
 this place, under the superintendence of the Rev. Isaac M'Coy, 
 who also has the care of the Carey station on the St Joseph's. 
 The jNIission family at present consists of a school teacher, a 
 blacksmith, and two or three agriculturists. The school was 
 opened in the winter of 1827, and now has about 30 Indian 
 children, who receive their board, clothing, and tuition, at the 
 expense of the establishment. 
 
 There is a trail leading south-west from the rapids to 
 the Kalamazoo Iliver, and thence to the llivers llaisin and 
 Huron. Another leads directly to the moutli of Thorn-Apple 
 River, a distance of only 10 miles on the trail, but 25 round 
 the curve of the river. The country, within this bend, except- 
 ing immediately along the river, is of a rough hilly character, 
 a great part consisting of oak o]jenings of a barren apj)earance, 
 with a few scattering groves of white pine. Most of the land, 
 however, in the neighbourhood of this tract, is of a good qua.
 
 TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 341 
 
 lity, and timbered with all kinds that usually grow on rich al- 
 luvial soils. 
 
 There is a salt spring, 4 miles below the rapids, which rises 
 out of the ground about half a mile from the river on the east 
 side. The water is said to be, both as to quantity and quality, 
 sufficient to warrant the establishment of works for the manu- 
 facturing of that useful article. Near this place is also a bed 
 of gypsum, of a fine quality, which will, probably, in time, be 
 of great importance to agriculturists in many of the western 
 parts of Michigan. 
 
 Muck-a-ta-sha, or Blackskin's village, is 6 miles below the 
 rapids, and is situate near the bend of the river, on an elevated 
 prairie. There is another village 20 miles lower down the 
 river. From the rapids to the lake, a distance of 36 miles, 
 the river is no where less than 4 feet deep. The current at 
 the former place is too powerful to be ascended with loaded 
 boats. The country along the river, for the first 15 or 20 miles, 
 above the lake, is generally level, and in many instances 
 swampy, with lofty forests of various kinds of timber, and bear- 
 ing an almost impenetrable thicket of under-growth. 
 
 The country, watered by the Grand River, consists of be- 
 tween 6000 and 7000 square miles ; and, considering its central 
 position in the territory, — the general fertility of the soil on 
 the several branches of the stream,— the convenience of a good 
 and safe harbour at its mouth, together with its many other im- 
 portant natural advantages, — we may be fully justified in the 
 opinion, that it will, at no very distant period, become one of 
 the most important sections of Michigan. 
 
 No. II. 
 
 NOTE REGARDING PAUPERISM IN ENGLAND, WITH 
 S03iE SUGGESTIONS UPON EMIGRATION. 
 
 In the present alarming state of Pauperism, where it ap- 
 pears, from Parliamentary Returns, that the amount of poor- 
 rates collected in England and Wales in 1831, was L. 8,11 1,422,
 
 342 APPENIJIX. 
 
 being an increase of 8 per cent, on the preceding year, some 
 remedial measure must be forthwith attempted ; and, although 
 it may not at once prove a cure, emigration, it is sul)mitted, 
 holds out, at least, a fair promise of alleviation. This political 
 measure has been powerfully advocated, and no less strenuous- 
 ly reprobated, by men of talent, philantliropy, and worth. 
 While one assures us, that, by opening a channel for surplus 
 population, the only result would be to feed the disease ; the 
 other party makes a powerful ajjpeal to humanity and to sound 
 policy, in behalf of what must, in their view, augment the sum 
 of human happiness, and add to the strength and resources of 
 the State. 
 
 England has been brouglit into her present dilemma from 
 the abuse of her system of jjoor-laws. To provide for the 
 really destitute is an obligation coeval with, and probably in- 
 herent in, the social compact. AN'lu'n this salutary principle, 
 however, degenerates into a claim for support by h^'althy able- 
 bodied men, with teeming spouses and broods of children, it be- 
 comes a nioi'al and a jjhysical evil of an aj)palling description, 
 and is fraught with the most alarming consequences where it 
 is recognised as the law of the land. 
 
 Taking it, as admitted, that many parishes of England are 
 sinking under this burden, and having in our remembrance the 
 millions of rich and vacant acres which our colonies present, it 
 mei'its serious inquiry, whether the capabilities of the one may 
 not be made subservient to the necessities and means of the 
 other, in a way productive of advantage to both. 
 
 It is here unnecessary to designate (what may be a fair mat- 
 ter of choice) which of our colonies shall be preferred ; let us 
 assume that Upper Canada has been selected. The primary 
 object in every scheme of emigration should be, to j)lace the 
 emigrant on his new home, in the circumstances most readily 
 and permanently conducive to his own jirospcrity and to the 
 common weal. It may be doubted whether this has, in most 
 cases, received due attention, and hence the failure of many a 
 plan. An impcn-tant link would seem to have been hither- 
 to awanting in the chain of emigration. An active and steady 
 superintendence in the colonies to j)ave the way for emigrants 
 is still a desideratum, by which those scenes of misery and dis-
 
 PAUPERISM IN ENGLAND. 343 
 
 appointment, so frequently occurring, might be materially di- 
 minished or checked. 
 
 The benefits derived from the present system of emigrant- 
 agency at the entry ports, would be essentially increased in 
 various ways, by such a superintendency as is here contempla- 
 ted. The demand for labourers and servants throughout the 
 provinces would be more correctly and systematically ascer- 
 tained. Locations suited to existing circumstances would be 
 selected and provided, either upon government lands or else- 
 where, for parties of parish emigrants, as they might be requir- 
 ed ; and as parishes would benefit equally as government from 
 the services of such an individual, the expense incurred 
 would fall to be mutually adjusted. 
 
 If a permanent and organized system of this nature should 
 be carried into effect, the following ought to be the natural re- 
 sults. On the one hand, Government would secure a market 
 among mir own subjects for a large extent of land now absolutely 
 unprodtcctwe, adding thereby both to the strength and wealth of 
 the colony, and augmenting the general resources of the State. 
 Besides which, very considerable sums would flow directly 
 into the Exchequer from the sale of the lands. On the other 
 hand, the parishes would shake off a burden, which may be fair- 
 ly enough said to perpetuate itself, and that at a cost (as will 
 be presently shown) far short of bare subsistence to the pau- 
 pers at home for a very limited period. It seems to have been 
 sufficiently established, by Parliamentary inquiry, that every 
 pauper, having a wife and three childi-en under ten years 
 of age, wiU require an extra allowance of 8s. per week, over 
 and above what the overseers can make by hiring out their 
 labour. L. 20 Sterling, therefore, is a moderate computation 
 of the annual expense to be incurred on account of each such 
 family, for subsistence alone, Avithout reference to the many ex- 
 pensive items of contested settlements, medical aid, &c., which 
 figure in every parish rate. 
 
 Let us now endeavour to estimate the probable expense of 
 removing (say) fifty such families, and establishing them com- 
 fortably in Upper Canada, including the purchase of 50 acres 
 to each family, and maintenance for 60 days after reaching 
 their destination.
 
 344 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Freifiht of l(iO adults fromEneland to Montreal, at I-. 3, 10s. c?ach, L. 3.'>0 
 
 Do. of ITHi children at L. 1, l.')S. each, .... i'G2 10 <l 
 
 Provisions for voyage of 50 days, at Is. per day adults, and atCd. per 
 
 day for children, ...... 4,37 10 n 
 
 Price of .",0 acres of land to 50 persons at 7s. per acre, . . K75 
 
 • Board in Canada for fiO days, at Is. to adults, and fid. to children, 525 
 Implements and seed for S acres to each family supposed sufficient to 
 
 support them, (say) . . . . 150 
 
 Transport from Montreal to Upper Province, (say) . . loo 
 
 Incident-s, (say) KNi 
 
 L. 2ii00 
 
 In forming an estimate per contra, let each male pauper be 
 takt'n as a healthy man of the age of 40, (the great proportion 
 w'ill he under) his chance of life by the Northampton tables is 
 something above 2;j years. In addition to this, it must be re- 
 membered, that, as a pauper declines in years, the expense to 
 his parish will naturally increase. To prevent, however, all 
 cavil, let the value of his life be taken only at eleven years in 
 ])lace of twenty.three. 
 
 Eleven years' cost of 50 families, at L.20 per annum each, . L. 11,000 
 Deduct total expense of removal and establishment in Canada, 2,800 
 
 Permanent saving, L. 8,200 
 
 These calculations may be objectionable in some particular 
 items, but, as a whole, it is believed, they are tolerably correct. 
 Nor does the above sum, large as it is, fairly indicate the real 
 gam of the parish, for, it is plain, that by removing those pau- 
 pers for whom no profitable employment could be found, more 
 ample room is left for the labourers who remain, and of whom, it 
 is reasonable to assume, that many would ere long have come 
 upon the parish for aid, had no removal of others taken place. 
 It has been proved, that in parishes where there were perhaps 
 100 labourers without work, the removal of 20 restored the de- 
 mand to a wholesome state. 
 
 Should a measure of this nature be adopted, a fair opportuni- 
 ty will be afforded of effecting some wliolesome alterations 
 upon the poor-laws, and it does not appear how this can be 
 brouglit about without relieving the eaistiny pressure. Let the 
 
 » It might be practicable either to provide employment with board for expect- 
 ed emigrants, or to prepare their land, so that they might find it partly in crop. 
 In either case this Item would be saved. Five acres in potatoes and maize would 
 maintain a family for 12 months in abundance.
 
 PAUPERISM IN KNGLAND. 345 
 
 law be restored to somewhat of its pristine and wholesome na- 
 ture. Let the aged and the destitute be cai"efully provided for, 
 and let some power be reserved to meet any great or unexpect- 
 ed stagnation of employment, or of distress in the land ; but in 
 every case where the pauper shall be able-bodied, let the j)arish 
 have the right to propose emigratiou on a fit and proper plan, or 
 to be absolved from all obligation to provide maintenance or 
 work for vigorous and healthy men. This may stagger many, 
 as a cruel alternative to the man who actually possesses at this 
 hour his right of settlement as the law stands. Should some 
 such enactment, however, not take place, all attempts to cor- 
 rect the evils of the poor-laws will prove futile and vain. And 
 it should be borne in remembrance, that a party of neighbours, 
 with their wives and children, comfortably transfen-ed from vhe 
 discord and squalid misei-y of English paupers, to the actual 
 possession in fee simple of 50 acres of good land in a healthy 
 climate, can scarcely be admitted to complain, with justice, of 
 having their interests neglected or their rights despised. 
 
 Should the views here stated be at all sound, it is surely a 
 matter of serious import, in the present degraded and inflam- 
 matory state of our peasantry, once their country's pride, to 
 form some arrangement on the plan suggested. 
 
 It would be a vain attempt, within the limits of this note, to 
 touch upon the pauperism of Ireland, but it may be well to re- 
 member, that, in relieving England of those agricultural la- 
 bourers who cannot find employment, a short breathing time 
 may be taken to legislate for Ireland. The influx of Irish la- 
 bourers has to some extent fostered the evil which exists, and 
 which would experience a temporary alleviation by the remo- 
 val of those English labourers from tlie market for labour. No 
 doubt this would soon be at an end, as the supply from Ireland 
 would soon become superabundant, and the tide would be roll- 
 ed back again whence it came. But, meantime, legislative 
 measures might be arranged either to provide for them at 
 home, or to offer them emigration from proper Irish funds. 
 
 Let it always be had in remembrance, that emigration, as 
 a corrective of pauperism, must ever prove nugatory, unless 
 accompanied by wholesome enactments for correcting the evil 
 which has called for its aid. 
 
 Adam Feugussox.
 
 34n APPENDIX. 
 
 The subject of the foregoing note would appear also to have 
 engaged the attention of a Gentleman who has opened an ex- 
 tremely useful establishment in London, and who is at present 
 (I believe) engaged in preparing an extensive work upon emi- 
 gration. 
 
 AN ADDRESS TO MAGISTRATES, LANDOWNERS, AND 
 EATE-PAYERS. 
 
 Genbral Colonial Ofpicb, 
 
 140 Lraclenhall Street. 
 
 The object of this Address is to point out to ^Magistrates, 
 Landowners and llate-payers, a novel, but easy and effectual 
 method of promoting the emigration of paupers to the Bri- 
 tish North American Colonies. 
 
 The advantages of pauper emigration to those of the labour- 
 ing class who remove, as well as to those who remain at home 
 
 to the owners and occupiers of land in this country, as well 
 
 as to persons of the same classes in the colonies, whose chief 
 want is the want of labourers — the unqualified and extensive 
 benefits of pauper emigration— are at length so generally un- 
 derstood, that upon this point it is unnecessary to say another 
 word. Prejudice has been subdued by facts. Within the last 
 year or two, the rate-payers of very many parishes have been 
 relieved by furnishing to the poor and the necessitous the 
 means of obtaining an advantageous settlement in the British 
 colonies of North America ; whilst every report from those 
 colonies acknowledges the reciprocal benefits experienced from 
 the influx of laborious settlers. The natural result is, a gene- 
 ral desire on the jjart of the labouring poor to obtain the means 
 of emigrating to Canada, and on the part of the owners and 
 occupiers of land heavily burdened with poor rates, to afford 
 to paupers the means of removal from misery, discontent, and 
 temptation to evil courses of life. 
 
 But there yet remain some great practical difficulties in the 
 way of extensive pauper emigration. The dependent poor are 
 willing, nay most anxious, to remove ; rate-payers are desirous 
 to provide funds for the removal of paupers; shipowners 
 abound who are ready to convey poor emigi-ants to Canada, at
 
 PAUPERISM IN ENGLAND. 347 
 
 a cost -n-hich is trifling compared with that of maintaining 
 paupers at home : but there has not been established any sys- 
 tematic method of enabling these three classes to co-operate 
 for their common advantage. Let us suppose a number of 
 pauper families anxious to emigrate, the rate-payers of their 
 parish willing to promote their emigration, and a shipowner 
 who would rejoice to obtain passengers in his ship which he is 
 about to dispatch in ballast ; still much trouble must be incur- 
 red by the rate-payers in making a contract with the ship- 
 owner and in placing the paupers on ship-board ; whilst, after 
 all, the security for the performance of the contract — for punc- 
 tuality in the time of sailing — for the accommodation and due 
 supplv of the emigrants during their voyage — and for such at- 
 tention to their wants on arriving in the colony as should en- 
 able them to reap without delay the great advantages of emi- 
 gration, is at best very imperfect- These are the difficulties 
 which must be removed before pauper emigration can be con- 
 ducted with facility and satisfaction to all the parties concerned. 
 In order to remove these difficulties — to facilitate, as much 
 as possible, the emigration of paupers at the cost of rate pay- 
 ers, and above all to satisfy the benevolent that their humane 
 purpose will be strictly carried into effect, it appears to be in- 
 dispensably necessary that a new occupation should be under- 
 taken by persons pi-operly qualified to conduct it, viz. that 
 of serving as a medium of communication between rate-payers 
 and ship-owners, by contracting with parish-officers under ftill 
 responsibility, and with every security for the due performance 
 of the contract, for the removal of paupers either fi-om their 
 parish or from a given port, to a given destination in the co- 
 lonies. In order to follow this occupation, the undersigned have 
 established a " House of Agency for Emigration" in London. 
 They have set on foot an extensive correspondence with the 
 colonies of Upper and Lower Canada, Nova Scotia, New Bruns- 
 Avick, and the Australasian settlements, whereby they will be 
 enabled at all times to point out the settlement where the 
 greatest demand for labour exists, and to which therefore, poor 
 emigi'ant labourers ought to be directed ; whereby also they 
 will possess the means of procuring advice and assistance to 
 poor emigrants on their amval at the colony to which they
 
 34R 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 mav be destined ;— and they now propose to enter into corUracti 
 witli jjarish-ofFicers and others for conducting the emigration 
 of paupers. Tlic terms of such contract are specified below, 
 and it is hoped they will be found to contain ev^ery security 
 which the most cautious and benevolent guardians of the poor 
 covdd desire. It will thus l)e seen, that when the rate-payers 
 of a })arish have formed the wish to promote the emigration of 
 a number of paupers desirous to emigrate, their wish may be 
 at once carried into effect without farther trouble or anxiety 
 beyond that of correspondence with the imdersigned, who 
 undertake to furnish the fullest information upon every point 
 which may be interesting to those who may be pleased to con- 
 fide in them, and to incur the resjmit.sibilitj/, as well as the trouble, 
 of carrying into full eii'ect the wishes of those with whom they 
 may enter into contracts. 
 
 Terms of Contract. 
 
 1. Passage to be provided for such sum as may be agreed upon. 
 
 2. Port of embarkation and debarkation to be specified. 
 
 3. Day of sailing to be specified, and if any delay take place, 
 altfwugh from wind, weather, or any other equally unavoidable 
 cause, the passengers to be maintained at the expense of 
 Robert Gouger and Co. according to the scale of rations. 
 
 4. Provisions to be provided from the day fixed for embarka- 
 tion according to the following scale — 
 
 Sclieme of Provisions, for a Mess of Six Men or Women for each Day 
 
 cfthe Week. 
 
 - 
 
 Bread. 
 
 Beef. 
 
 Pork. 
 
 Pre- 
 served 
 Meal*. 
 
 Flour 
 
 or 
 Rice. 
 
 Peas. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 Cocoa 
 
 or 
 Coflee. 
 
 Sugai. 
 
 Rum. 
 
 Sunday, . . 
 
 ft. 
 
 4 
 
 «). 
 
 Ih. 
 
 ft). 
 2 
 
 Jb. 
 3 
 
 pints. 
 
 oz. 
 
 oz. 
 
 oz. 
 6 
 
 pints. 
 1 
 
 Monday, . . 
 
 4 |... 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 I Tuesday, . . 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 ... 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 6 { 1 
 
 1 We<lnesday, 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 (J I 1 
 
 Thursday, . 
 
 ^ 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 G 1 1 
 
 Friday, . . . 
 
 4 
 
 ... 
 
 3 
 
 ... 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 G 1 1 
 
 Saturday, . 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 6 1 1 
 
 • The preserved meat is cooked, and free from bone.
 
 PAUPERISM IN ENGLAND. 349 
 
 In case of substitution, the following proportions are to be 
 observed : 
 
 1 lb. of raisins or ^ lb. of currants, to be equal to 1 lb. flour. 
 I oz. of cocoa or coffee, to be equal to ^ oz. tea. 
 
 5. Sum to be paid to the emigrants on their arrival. 
 
 6. One-half of the passage-money agreed for, to be paid on 
 the day of embarkation ; the remainder to be deposited with 
 
 Messrs , and to be paid to R. Gouger & Co. so 
 
 soon as they will furnish proof of the landing of the emigrants 
 at the specified colonial port. 
 
 Robert GouoEa & Co. 
 1 48, LeadcnhaU-Str£et, 
 
 GENERAL COLONIAL AGENCY OFFICE. 
 148, Leadenhall-Street. 
 
 The above office has been established for the purjxjse of 
 affording to persons residing in any of the British Colonies 
 facilities for transacting public or private business with Eng- 
 land. 
 
 The undersigned, from their extensive mercantile connec- 
 tions, are enabled to dispose readily of any colonial produce, or 
 other goods which may be consigned to them for sale, as well 
 as to execute, upon the most favourable terms, any commis- 
 sion for the purchase of British manufactures with which they 
 may be entrusted. 
 
 All business connected with the estates of persons dying in 
 tlie colonies, and with the remittance of property, transacted 
 with the most punctuality and despatch. 
 
 The pay and pension of Officers residing in the colonies, re- 
 ceived and remitted. 
 
 Goods and baggage belonging to persons ariiving in England, 
 cleared and delivered. 
 
 Robert Gouger & Co.
 
 ( 350 ) 
 
 No. III. 
 
 \^Every exertion in his j)oircr is made ht/ /lis Majesty s 
 Af/ent fa alleviate the difficulties of Emigrants, and 
 of these the following is a sample.^ 
 
 ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 
 
 QUEBKC, \st May 1832. 
 
 There is nothing of more importance to Emigrants on arrival 
 at Quebec, than correct information on the leading points con- 
 nected with their future pursuits. jNIany have suflfered much 
 by a want of caution, and by listening to the opinions of inte- 
 rested designing characters, who frequently offer their advice 
 unsolicited, and who are met generally about wharfs, and land- 
 ing places frequented by strangers. To guard emigrants Irom 
 failing into such errors, they should, immediately on arrival 
 at Quebec, proceed to the Office of the Chief Agent for Emi- 
 grants, in Sault-au-Matelot Street, Lower Town, where every 
 information requisite for their future guidance in either getting 
 settlement on lands, or obtaining employment in Upper or 
 Lower Canada, will be o))tained ((jmtls.) 
 
 The following Directions are of importance to the Emigrant arrivinc/ 
 in Canada, and are addressed to Iiim in the simplest language. 
 
 PreA-ious to disembarkation, arrange your baggage in a small 
 compass, the fewer j)ackages the better, but have them well se- 
 cured, old dirty clothing, large boxes, and other useless arti- 
 cles, are not worth the carriage. If you have any provisions 
 left, such as oatmeal, potatoes, &c. you can sell them at Que- 
 bec at a profit, and avoid the exjjense of transport, and you can 
 purchase baker's bread, butter, tea, sugar, and other necessaries 
 more suited for your journey. All sorts of provisions may be 
 bought cheaper, and generally of a better (piality, in Montreal 
 and Upper Canada, than at Quebec. Dress yourself in light 
 clean clothing. Females frequently bring on sickness, by be-
 
 ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 351 
 
 ing too warmly clothed. Cut your hair short, and wash daily 
 and thoroughly. Avoid drinking ardent spirits of any kind, and 
 when heated do not drink cold water. Eat moderately of light 
 food. Avoid night dews. By attending to the preceding di- 
 rections, sickness will be prevented, with other serious incon- 
 veniences. When every thing is ready for disembarkation, and 
 if the ship is lying at anchor in the river, — take care in pass- 
 ing from the ship to the boat ; avoid all haste, and see that your 
 baggage is in the same conveyance with yourself, or left under 
 the charge of some friend, with your name on it. If the ship 
 hauls to the wharf to disembark, do not be in a hurry, but 
 await the proper time of tide, when the ship's deck will be on 
 a line with the quay or wharf. Passengers are entitled by law 
 to the privilege of remaining on board ship 48 hours after 
 arrival ; and it is unlawful for the Captain to deprive his pas- 
 sengers of any of their usual accommodations for cooking or 
 otherwise : you may therefore avoid the expense of lodgings, 
 and make all your arrangements for prosecuting your journey. 
 Previous to disembarkation, should sickness overtake you, pro- 
 ceed immediately, or be removed to the Emigrant Hospital, in 
 St John's Suburbs, where you will be taken care of, and provid- 
 ed with every thing needful until restored to health. Medi- 
 cine and medical advice can also be had at the Dispensary at- 
 tached to the Quebec Charitable Emigrant Societ_v. This so- 
 ciety will grant relief to all destitute emigrants. In Montreal 
 there is a similar institution for the relief of emigrants. It is 
 particularly recommended to emigrants, not to loiter their va- 
 luable time at the port of landing; but to proceed to obtain set- 
 tlement or employment. Many have regretted when too late, 
 that they did not pursue this course, and take advantage of the 
 frequent opportunities that presented themselves for settle- 
 ment in convenient situations in Upper or Lower Canada, in- 
 stead of squandering their means and valuable time in looking 
 after an imaginary paradise in the aguish swamps of Illinois 
 and ]\Iissouri, or other distant regions of the Western States. 
 There is no portion of the American continent more congenial 
 to the constitution or habits of emigi-ants from the United King- 
 dom, or that offer a wider field, or surer reward for industry 
 and good conduct, than the fertile districts of Upper Canada
 
 352 APi'KNinx. 
 
 or Lower Canada. Many emigrants will find employment in 
 the City of Quebec and its vicinit_v, as also in and about ISIont- 
 real. Single men in particular are advised to embrace tiie oder; 
 but emigrants with large families had better proceed without 
 delay to Ujiper Canada, as hereafter directed, or to situations 
 in Lower Canada, particularly the Eastern 'I'ownsbips — and, 
 if they have sons and daughters grown up, they will find 
 a sure demand for their services. Artificers, and mechanics of 
 all denominations, and farming labourers, if sober and indus- 
 trious, may be sure of doing well. IJlacksmiths, particularly 
 those acquainted with steam-engine work, also good mill- 
 wrights and sawyers by machinery, are much wanted in the 
 Canadas. 
 
 The following are the current rates of wages paid in Upjier 
 and Lower Canada to persons acquainted with the country ; — 
 strangers ought not to ex})ect so much : 
 
 Upprr Canada. 
 
 ship Carpenters and Joiners, per day os. (id. to 7s. 6d. 
 
 Bricklavers and Masons . . do. 4s. (id. to 7s. (id. 
 
 Blacksn'iiths, Millwrislits, &c. do. .'is. (id. to 8s. (id. 
 
 Kami At Coinuion I/abourers, iS:r. do. l's. (id. to 4s. (Id. 
 
 Ditto ditto, per month, and found, .Ills. (id. to (ills. Od. 
 
 House Servants (Men) do. do. 3lls. Od. to .50s. (Id. 
 
 Ditto do. (Fem:iles)-lo. do. 20s. Od. to 35s. Od 
 
 LowRR Canada. 
 .Ss. 6d. to Bs. Od. 
 4s. Od. to 6s. 6d. 
 ;{s. (id. to 7s. 6d. 
 L's. od. to .'is. Od. 
 aos. Od. to .5()s. (td. 
 20s. Od. to 405. Od. 
 lOs. Od. to 30s. Od. 
 
 A great number of labourers are employed on board ships, 
 and about timber-yards, at Quebec and Montreal, who get from 
 3s. to 4s. Od. a-day, and generall}' found. The extravagant ha- 
 bits engendered in such occupations, are decidedly in favour of 
 the labouring emigrant proceeding immediately to the country. 
 Emigrants with families, and who are possessed of from L. 20 
 to L. 25, are advised to jiush immediately into the woods, in 
 the vicinity of old settlements, where they can obtain provi- 
 sions for their spare labour. The difficulties, although great 
 at first, soon subside, and much experience is the result. The 
 cost of clearing wild lands, and making it ready for crop, is from 
 50s. to 70s. per acre in Upper Canada, and the Townships of 
 I^wer Canada. To these I should say, select a favourable 
 spot for your log-house near a spring of water, or running 
 stream, and where a cellar to keep your potatoes in winter can 
 be dug under the house.' If you proceed to build houses and 
 
 • Carefully clear the timber and brush to a distance from your dwelling and 
 out buildings, or, in the event of fire in the woods, great risk Is incurred of their 
 being destroyed.
 
 ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 353 
 
 clear lands on a large scale on first arrival, it rarely suc- 
 ceeds so well; for the price of labour is so high, and the difficul- 
 ty of getting persons to work, added to the great expense of 
 providing food for increased numbers, until produced from your 
 own land, ought in every instance to induce the strange emi- 
 grant and family to proceed cautiously in laying out their mo- 
 ney ; but a crop of potatoes and fodder for a cow is the first 
 object, and this may be accomplished the first year, if you arrive 
 early. The second you will be enabled to feed your family 
 with the necessaries of life, and the third year you may find 
 yourself possessed of a yoke of oxen, a cow or two, and a year 
 old calf, a couple of pigs, poultry, &c. abundance of provisions 
 for your family, and fodder for your cattle. The Irish and 
 Scotch peasantry know well how to value the economy of a 
 milch cow ; every new settler ought to strive to obtain one as 
 soon as possible, taking care to provide a sufficiency of fodder for 
 the long winter. Cattle require a little salt in the Canadas. 
 It is not considered necessary to go farther into the details of 
 the first settlement, as on all these points you will be guided by 
 your own observation on the spot, and the advice you will get 
 from the local agents and superintendents. Great caution is 
 necessary in aU your transactions. When you stand in need 
 of advice, apply to the government agents, or other respectable 
 sources. You will find many plans and schemes offered to your 
 consideration, on your route from Quebec to your destination 
 in Upper Canada ; but turn away from them, unless you are 
 well satisfied of the purity of the statements. Should you re- 
 quire to change your English money, go to the banks or some 
 well known respectable person. The currency in the Canadas, 
 is at the rate of 5s. to the dollar, and is called Halifax cur- 
 rency. The value of English gold, or silver, is regulated by the 
 rate of exchange in England, which fluctuates. At present the 
 gold sovereign is worth 23s. 6d. to 24s. currency. In New 
 York 8s. is calculated for the dollar ; hence many are deceived 
 when hearing of the rates of labour, &c — 5s. in Canada, is equal 
 to 8s. in New York; thus, 8s. New York currency is equivalent 
 to 5s- Halifax. In Upper Canada, and in the Townships of 
 Lower Canada, the tenure of lands is " Free and Common Soc- 
 cage," as in England. In the Seigneurial or French parts of 
 
 z
 
 354 APPENDIX. 
 
 Lower Canada, the feudal or French tenure is the custom. In 
 the Canadas you live under the British laws and constitution, 
 and are less incumbered with taxes or local imposts, than in any 
 other country on the face of the j^lobe. You ought, previous 
 to leaving Quebec, to apply at the Post-office should you ex- 
 pect any letters, and if you are writing to your friends in the 
 United Kingdom by post, you must pay the postage : so also 
 when writing to the United States. Letters from one part of 
 the Canadas to the other, do not require to be post-paid. Emi- 
 grants may forward letters to the United Kingdom from Que- 
 bec, by taking them to the keeper of the Merchant's Exchange, 
 and paying one penny for each. 
 
 Having arranged all your business at Quebec, you will pro- 
 ceed without loss of time to Montreal, by steam-boat, on your 
 route to Upper Canada. Two steam-boats ply daily to ]Mont- 
 real, 180 miles up the St Lawrence, which is jjcrformed in 24 
 to 30 hours. The fare for deck passengers, is 7s. Gd. for adults; 
 children under 12 years pay half-price, and under 7 one-third. 
 These steam-boats belong to private individuals. Government 
 is in no manner connected with them. At Montreal you will 
 find a government agent, who will advise you should you re- 
 quire it. 
 
 Routes to the principal places in Upper Canada, as follows : 
 
 Quebec to Montreal, by steam-boats, ... 7s. 6(i. cost. 
 
 Montreal to Prescott, by nurham boats, . . Os. 3d. 
 
 Prescott to Kingston, by steam, ... 5s. (id. 
 
 Ditto to Coburgh, or Port Hope, ... 7s. G(i. 
 
 Preacott to York, Caiiital of Upper Canada, Hamilton •) jqs, 
 and Niagara, ... / 
 
 From Niagara, you proceed by land to Fort Erie, opposite 
 Buffalo on Lake Erie, where steam-boats, or sailing schooners, 
 will convey those destined to Port Talliot, or otlier parts of the 
 London district, or vicinity of Lake St Clair.^- Persons going 
 to settle on the lands of the Canada Company will proceed to 
 York or Burliugtou Eay head of Lake Ontario. 
 
 At most of the preceding towns and landing places, you will 
 find government agents. If you are bound to Perth, or New 
 Lanark, or the vicinity, disembark at Prescott ; or you may go
 
 ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 355 
 
 via By-Town on the Ottawa. If for the thriving settlements 
 in the Newcastle district, disembark at Coburgh or Port Hope, 
 on Lake Ontario. Those going to the townships of Seymour may 
 proceed from Kingston, by the beautiful Bay of Quinte, to the 
 mouth of the Trent lliver, from whence a road, distance 1 8 
 miles, brings you to Seymour. If proceeding to the Home or 
 Western districts, disembark at York, the capital of Upper 
 Canada. Emigrants going any where beyond York, will in ge- 
 neral find it their interest to make it their route. If for the 
 London district, proceed by the Niagara frontier, to Lake Erie, 
 and the Talbot Settlement. If for By-Town, Grenville, Hull, 
 Horton, or other situations on the Ottawa River, proceed from 
 Montreal, and Lachine, by the usual conveyances. 
 
 Crown lands, of the most fertile quality, are prepared for 
 the reception of emigrants in many parts of Upper Canada, and 
 will be sold, payable by instalments. The following offices have 
 been opened by the Commissioner of Crown Lands in Upper 
 Canada, for the convenience of Emigrants : — 
 
 In the Batliurst District, Mr M'Naughton will open his office 
 at By-Town. 
 
 Major Campbell, of the Township of Seymour, for the Mid- 
 land District. 
 
 JMr Ritchie for the Home District, and will reside in Sunni- 
 dale. 
 
 Mr Mount, Deputy-Surveyor, for the Western District, be- 
 tween Carradoc and the St Clair. 
 
 Emigi-ants may obtain employment, for two or three months, 
 on the roads, in several Townships, in the Western and Home 
 districts of Upper Canada. 
 
 Routes to the principal settlements in Lower Canada, are 
 as follows : — 
 District of Quebec, south side of the River St Lawrence. 
 Township of Frampton, 36 mUes from Quebec by Point Levy, 
 a thriving settlement inhabitants mostly Irish. 
 
 Townships lying contiguous to the Kennecbec road, beyond 
 Frampton, offer good prospect for settleinent. The lands are 
 principally private property. The seigniory of St Giles, 30 
 njiles from Quebec, by St Nicholas and the Craig's road, is
 
 356 APPENDIX. 
 
 favourably situated for emigrants, from its contiguity to the 
 capital, and is increasing rajjidly ; its population is principally 
 Irish. 
 
 New Argyle, in the seigniory of St Croix, 8 miles from l{i- 
 chardson's Tavern, on the Craig's road in St Cliles, and 38 
 miles from Quebec ; the new road to the Township of Inver- 
 ness passes through this settlement. Inhal)itants, principally 
 Highlanders from the Island of Islay, and Irish — The lands 
 in this part are of good quality. 
 
 The settlements of Ulster, Yorkshire, Dul)lin, and New 
 Hamilton, commence four miles beyond New Argyle, and 42 
 miles from Quebec, and are situated in the flourishing Town- 
 ship of Inverness : througli which a new road has been nearly 
 finished to the borders of the Township of Halifax. The in- 
 habitants of Inverness are from various parts of the United 
 Kingdom. Those from England are principally from York- 
 shire ; those from Ireland, mostly from the Northern Counties ; 
 and those from Scotland are chiefly Highlanders from the 
 Island of Arran. Beyond Inverness lie the Townships of Halin 
 fax, Chester, and Tingwick, good lands fiar settlement ; but at 
 present there is no convenient road to them. The Township of 
 Athabaska joins Inverness, and is a desirable place for settle- 
 ment. 
 
 The Township of Leeds through which Craig's road passes, 
 lies to the left of Inverness, is 50 miles from Quebec, and is in. 
 creasing rapidly in population. Inhabitants, Scotch, Irish and 
 Knglish. 
 
 The Township of New Ireland, through which Craig's road 
 also passes, lies beyond I,ecds, (;0 miles from Quei)ec, and is 
 increasing much in jjopulatitju. The inhabitants are principally 
 Irish, and a number of English of the Wesleyan connexion, 
 also about 25 American families from the United States. 
 
 Craig's road leads to Shipton and Dudswell, but is inipass, 
 able for wheel-carnage transport licyond Ireland. 
 
 From the Market-slip, in the Lower Town of Quebec, ferry, 
 boats go daily as the tide suits to St Nicholas, 12 miles up the 
 river on the south side, where Craig's road begins. 
 
 Eastern Townships of Lower Canada. The present route 
 ig via Three llivers, «J0 miles above Quebec, by steam-boat, here
 
 INFORMATION TO EMIGRANTS. 357 
 
 cross the St Lawrence to the south side, and proceed to Slier- 
 brook^ by Nicolet, La Buie, and Drummondville ; or you may 
 proceed to Sorrel 40 miles above, Three Rivers, on the south 
 side of the St Lawrence, and there disembark. The rate of pas- 
 sage from Quebec by the steam- boat will be about the same as 
 to stop at Three llivers, and you will avoid the ferry. A good 
 road leads from Sorrel to Sherbrook, by Yamaska and Drum- 
 mondville. The distance from Quebec to Sherbrook in a 
 straight line by the new road to Inverness, when finished, is 99 
 miles, and by Three Rivers or Sorel: the route to be taken for 
 transport is 160 miles, of which 70 is land-carriage. 
 
 Sherbrooke is the capital of the Eastern Townships, and is 
 surrounded by thriving settlements, particularly Stanstead, 
 where industrious fanning labourers or mechanics are much 
 wanted, and are sure (by good conduct) to do well ; as also the 
 Townships of Stanbridge, Brome, Dunham, Potton, and the 
 Seigniory of St Armand, the route to which is by St John's. 
 
 Chambly is 40 miles from Sorrel, and 18 from Montreal, — 
 Labourers may get employment at the canal now making at 
 Chambly. Chateauguay, Godmanchester, and Sherington, from 
 25 to 40 miles from Montreal, south side of the St Lawrence, 
 are thriving situations. 
 
 North side of the River St Lawrence, and in the district and 
 vicinity of Quebec, are the settlements of Beauport, Stoneham, 
 Tewksbury, Valcartier, and Jacques Cartier, Deschambault, and 
 the settlement of Portneuf. Inhabitants, principally Irish. 
 
 Three Rivers and its vicinity, 90 miles from Quebec, give 
 employment to many emigrants. In the rear of Berthier, 130 
 miles above Quebec, are the Townships of Brandon, Kilkenny, 
 Rawdon and Kildare. 
 
 New Glasgow settlement in the seigniory of Terrebonne, is 
 about 30 miles from Montreal. Persons bound for the Town- 
 ships bordering on the Ottawa river, particularly Lochaber, 
 Templeton, Hull, &c. will take their route and departure from 
 Montreal. There are many desirable situations for settlement 
 belonging to private individuals in Upper and Lower Canada. 
 The names of the proprietors or the agents may be had on ap- 
 plication at this office. 
 
 It is particularly recommended to emigrants to be exceeding-
 
 358 APPENDIX. 
 
 ly cautious in ascertaining the titles to such lands as they may 
 settle on. 
 
 Recommendation for lands to the respective Township 
 agents and superintendents, of settlements in Upper and I^ower 
 Canada, with routes, &c. will be furnished to emigrants ((/rails.) 
 
 A. C. Buchanan, Chief Agent. 
 
 Emigrant Depahtment, 
 Quebec, 1st Mat/ 1832, 
 
 No. IV. 
 
 FOR THE INFORMATION OF EMIGRANTS. 
 
 Office of His Majesty's Chief Agent for the Superintendence of 
 Emigrants in Upper and Lower Canada. 
 
 QUBBEi", \st June 1032. 
 
 Emigrants arriving at Quebec from the United Kingdom, 
 and who are desirous of settling in Upper Canada or Lower 
 Canada, or of obtaining employment, are informed that all ne- 
 cessary information for their guidance may be obtained [gratis) 
 an application at this office, between the hours of 10 and 3 
 o'clock daily, Sundays excepted. 
 
 The principal situations in Upi)er Canada, where arrange- 
 ments are made for locating emigrants, are in the Bathurst, 
 Newcastle, Home, and Western Districts. 
 
 Indigent emigrants, on condition of actual settlement, may 
 obtain a location on the following terms, viz. 
 
 Fifty acres of land will be allotteil to each head of a family, 
 upon condition of paying at tlie rate of ns. currency per acre. 
 The first jjayment to be made at the expiration of three years, 
 and the whole to be paid by annual instalments of L. 3 • 2 : 6 
 each, with interest, to commence from the expiration of three 
 years. 
 
 The government will incur the expense of building a small
 
 CITY OF THE FALLS. 359 
 
 log.house, for the temporary accommodation of settlers on their 
 respective locations, and will afford some assistance towards 
 opening roads to the lands proposed to be settled, but will make 
 no advances in provisions or utensils, and the settlers must de- 
 pend entirely upon their own resources for bringing their lands 
 into cultivation. 
 
 Settlers with means will have opportunities of purchasing 
 Crown Lands in several parts of the province at the public 
 sales, due notice of which may be obtained on application at 
 the Commissioner of Crown Lands' office, York, or to the fol- 
 lowing government agents : 
 
 Ottawa and 
 Bathurst Districts. 
 
 f Mr M'Naughton, at Syiown. 
 
 Newcastle District, Mr M'Douall, Peterboro. 
 
 Home District, Mr Ritchie, Tmonsliip of Medonto. 
 
 Western District, Jlr ]\Iount, Carrodoc and St Clair. 
 
 A. C Buchanan, Chief Agent. 
 
 No. V. 
 
 [ The following Project has already commenced, and I 
 doubt not will to some extent succeed. It is hoped the 
 style of Architecture, S^c. may be in liarmony with the 
 scene around.'] 
 
 " CITY OF THE FALLS." 
 
 Mr Forsyth having disposed of his interest in the property 
 at the Falls of Niagara, it is proposed to foimd a city, which, from 
 the elevated position of the grounds, and their contiguity to 
 the Falls, must necessarily possess the exclusive advantages of 
 a situation, which, without all question, is the most healthful on 
 the Continent of North America. 
 
 The heat of the summer can there be borne with pleasure, 
 while at the same time the annoyance of mosquitos and other
 
 360 APPENDIX. 
 
 insects is unknown. Various are the conjectures whence arises 
 the remarkable sahihrity of this region, but the most rational 
 is, that the agitation of tlie surrounding air produced by the 
 tremendous falls, combines with tlie ele\ ation and drj'ness of 
 the soil, and the absence of all swamps, to produce this happy 
 result. 
 
 The insalubrity of the Southern (as well as the Western) 
 States of this continent, sends forth every summer vast num- 
 bers of the resj)ectable inhabitants to seek health n these 
 northern latitudes. 
 
 The chief place of attraction has been the springs of Saratoga- 
 Various other places are resorted to, but none afford that quiet 
 in the midst of fashionable gaiety and relaxation from ordinary 
 avocations, which is to be found at Aix la Chapelle, Versailles, 
 IJath, Brighton, liuxton, and many other places in Europe, 
 where the most secluded privacy can be enjoyed in the midst 
 of the most refined society, 3'et so regulated, tiiat economy, 
 health, recreation, and pleasure are united ; where the well 
 dressed and the well conducted, without reference to rank or 
 wealth, may and do mingle with lords, grandees, and princes. 
 On the continent of North America, there is no other place 
 so well adapted as the grounds at tlic Falls for the formation 
 of a city, embracing all the advantages essential to the jjursuits 
 and habits of the people of the United States and Canadas, 
 whither all who visit the continent of North America resort, 
 to behold the most stupendous ! the most sublime ! of Nature's 
 works ; — to visit a place, the fame whereof stands pre-eminent 
 and unrivalled throughout the world. 
 
 The revolution produced by steam, as applied to the move- 
 ment of carriages by land, as well as vessels by water, places 
 the Falls in a new and prominent light. By the various chan- 
 nels of communication now ojiened, and in progress through 
 the State of Ohio, the cities and towns on the INIississippi, the 
 Ohio, Illinois, &c., have become connected with the great lakes 
 Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie, Ontario, Champlain, and 
 the rivers St Ijawrence and Hudson. 
 
 The proposed " City of the Falls," as to all these remote 
 regions, is placed like the heart in the human body, standing 
 in the direct routes of those travelling from the cities in the
 
 CITY OF THE FALLS. 361 
 
 valleys of the IVfississippi and Ohio, to New York, Boston, New- 
 Orleans, Montreal, and Quebec, also the new, and rapidly in- 
 creasing State of Michigan, the Canadas, and the Northern 
 States ; so that the site must be regarded as the most appro- 
 priate on the American Continent for the object adverted to, 
 affording an easy approach for the annual assemblage of the 
 fashionable, the learned, and the great. 
 
 A consideration of these unparalleled advantages, has led to 
 the formation of a company of gentlemen, who have purchased 
 Forsyth's grounds and houses, and who purpose to lay out the 
 lands so purchased in streets, in lots to be sold for buildings, 
 according to a scale insui'ing the general comfort and conveni- 
 ence of the new community. 
 
 The association purposes to place the superintendence of the 
 establishment under a gentleman, who will provide for the 
 Pavilion and Ontario house, suitable characters, intimately ac- 
 quainted with their duties, so that all who resort there, will 
 find a union of comfort with economy in the midst of a society 
 truly desirable. 
 
 It is proper to observe, that Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths, 
 will be erected near the cataract, and over these a splendid 
 Pump-room, Reading-room, Library, and Refreshment-rooms, 
 with an Orchestra, for the accommodation of all visitors. 
 
 That walks and seats are to be laid out upon the most im- 
 proved style of landscape gardening, with grottos, bowers, &c. 
 &c. 
 
 That lots will be set apart for places of public worship, 
 schools, and halls for literaiy institutions. 
 
 A number of cottages shall be forthwith erected, and furnished 
 for private families resorting to the Falls during the summer, 
 who wiVL have to provide nothing but their linen and plate, and 
 may dine either at the Pavilion, or in their own cottage. 
 
 The Pavilion alone is intended to receive gentlemen and 
 families who purpose remaining longer than one week ; the 
 Ontario house for those who may not feel disposed to remain so 
 long. No bar-room will be suffered at either house ; wine of 
 the best quality of its kind will be furnished on such moderate 
 terms, as will afford a liberal profit, without the extravagant 
 prices which so universally prevail.
 
 362 APPENDIX. 
 
 Peculiar advantages will be afforded such gentlemen as shall 
 erect, during the present or ensuing year, cottages or houses 
 for their permaiu'iit dwelling or sumaicr residences. 
 
 Tlie streets will he laid out and marked, so that persons de- 
 sirous of acquiring building lots may be accommodated. INIate- 
 rials for building are from ^>0 to 100 per cent, cheaper than in 
 New York, or most otlier cities. 
 
 Mechanics connected with l)uilding, will find it their inte- 
 rest to acquire a residence at the proposed city. 
 
 The city will aft'ord a most agreeable permanent residence 
 for respectable faiiiilles with limited incomes, as all the neces- 
 saries, and the chief luxuries, of life are remarkably cheap, 
 where good schools will be formed, and the best society met, 
 without the expense of entertaining them. While at the same 
 time, it will prove a residence admirably adapted for placing 
 children in the way of earning their own independence, either 
 in the United States or Canada. 
 
 A cliarter will be ajjplied for, so that aliens may hold real 
 estate in the city. 
 
 PaOPRlETOKS. 
 
 The Hon. "W. Allan, President of the Bank of Upper Canada. 
 James Buclianan, Esq., His Majesty's Consul, New York. 
 The Hon. Thos. Clarke. The Hon. J. H. Dunn, Receiver- 
 General. Thos. Dixon, Esq., President of the Society of St 
 George, New York. Lieut. General Murray, of the British 
 Anny. James Robinson, Esq. Samuel Street, Esq. 
 
 The survey, it is expected, will be completed by 1st August, 
 and an agent will attend to give all necessary information. 
 
 N. B. General Murray, with a view to these arrangements, 
 has already fixed his residence at the New City, and several 
 gentlemen contemplate building. 
 
 Mr Forsyth retains the Pavilion, &c., until December next.
 
 ( 3G3 ) 
 
 No. VI. 
 
 MR ROBERTSON'S NOTES. 
 
 It is with much pleasure that I am enabled to confirm the 
 accounts given of Canada and the States, by various communi- 
 cations ; and among others, by the shrewd remarks of an intelli- 
 gent farmer, near Edinburgh, who crossed the Atlantic in 1 830, 
 and of which I shall oHer a short abstract. This individual 
 has thoughts of emigrating, and prudently resolved, in the first 
 place, to view the land of promise, ere he finally determined 
 upon so important a step. Mr Robertson sailed from Greenock in 
 the latter end of April 1*830 for New York, where he landed on 
 the 14th June, and expresses himself greatly surprized at the 
 grandeur of the shops and private mansions, competing, as he 
 quaintly observes, " even with Edinburgh itself,"' " and the masses 
 of shipping from aU quarters of the globe, was in reality a won- 
 derful sight." His fellow passengers were quickly absorbed in the 
 busy population of the city, and he established himself in a re- 
 spectable boarding house at 13/(i per week. The season had be- 
 come warm, and the heat sometimes oppressed our honest 
 Scotchman. The number of common carters employed by the 
 merchants filled him with surprise. The carts were all ticketed, 
 and he noticed upon one a number considerably exceeding 2000. 
 The elegance and cleanliness of the hackney coaches, and the 
 quality of the horses, appear likewise to have particularly at- 
 tracted his attention. While in New York, the anniversary of 
 American Independence came round (4th July), a day of much 
 gaiety and martial display. The discipline of the American 
 troops does not seem to have impressed our traveller with much 
 admiration ; but he justly opposes to their irregularity, the im- 
 portant advantage " that they have no money to raise from 
 the people to uphold such a mass of men doing nothing in time 
 of peace but creating debt, for they have little or no debt, and 
 of course few or no taxes, as I have known them in Scotland, 
 ^yhere no sooneris the one taxgatherer out, than you may be sure 
 another will come in, so much so, that your hand is never out of
 
 364 APPENDIX. 
 
 your pocket a moment ; and if you have no money, your effects 
 are sure to go for it. Indeed, tliere is more money raised for the 
 city cess in Kdinburgh, than there is of all manner of taxes in 
 the city of New York." 
 
 Fnnn New York IVIr Robertson proceeded to Washington 
 by rhiladelphia and Baltimore, delighted with the splendid 
 steam-boats and with both of these cities. When at Washing- 
 ton, he visited a Scotch settler in Virghiia, who owned a gang 
 of 150 slaves. This man landed at New York in liUO witli 
 only 40s. He conunenced as a packman, and by steady and 
 frugal industry, had now acquired in property 1000 acres of 
 land, 150 Negroes, 1(> pairs of horses, &c. Tobacco was his 
 staple production. He offered ]\Ir Robertson a situation as 
 manager, which was declined. Having returned to Baltimore, 
 he proceeded across the Alleghany ^Mountains for Pittsburgh, in 
 the stage ; the distance 250 miles, fare 1 dollars, or I.. :i : 12 -. 0. 
 An option was given to him of stopping by the way, and pro- 
 ceeding on the following day, when so inclined. Wheat har- 
 vest had commenced (Kith July), and Mr Robertson notices the 
 cradling or cutting with the scythe, and states the daily work 
 of a man at 2.^ acres. Each cradler has a man to bind, and a man 
 witli a rake is attached to every two cradlers. Hence if we take 
 the wages of a cradler at 2 dollars or 9s. per day, those 
 of a binder at 4/6, and the half of a raker's wages at same 
 rate, = 2/3, tlie expense per acre, supposing 2^ acres to be cut, 
 will be C/fi per acre. Chambersburgh and the adjoining coun- 
 try greatly jjleased Mr Robertson. It reminded liim much ot 
 the Lothians in regard to fertility. He was kindly treated at 
 a farmer's, where he resolved to stop a day and look at a proper- 
 ty for sale, belonging to a Caj)tain "NI'Dougal. This was in 
 Franklin county, Pennsylvania. Tlie soil was rich, and the wheat 
 crop particularly fine. The farm contained 220 acres, of which 
 140 were in culture, the remainder in wood. It possessed an 
 excellent brick dwelling-house, two bams, stabling, iScc. and the 
 price demanded was 40 dollars or li. 9 per acre, a j)rlce which, 
 in so fine a district, with a canal about to be cut through it, 
 could not ])c deemed out of the way. The country abounds 
 with lime, but which has never yet been brought into use. The 
 wild and romantic scenery of the Alleghany Mountains greatly
 
 MR Robertson's notes. 365 
 
 delighted ]Mr Robertson, and he was surprized to find the soil 
 upon the summit equally rich as in the valley below. The coun- 
 ty town of Bradford, and the valley in which it stands, he pro- 
 nounces to be one of the most delightful spots he had ever seen, 
 and not the less so, that it bore a strong resemblance to his own 
 native glens. At Bloodyrun he found a pass in the mountains, 
 the very prototype of Killiecrankie itself. About 5 miles from 
 Pittsburgh, Mr Robertson examined a farm with numerous 
 buildings, then on sale- Its owner, a Mr Peebles, had made his 
 fortune upon it, and was about to retire. The fanii containetl 
 190 acres of good land, forty of these were under wood, twelve 
 ill excellent meadow, and the remainder in cleared arable land. 
 It had a fine brick mansion, good stables, &c. two stUl houses, 
 and two large orchards. The price asked was 40 dollars, but 
 might probably have been bought for less. This district abounds 
 in coal, which is dug from the hiU sides, and appears wherever 
 the road has been cut along the banks. 
 
 The bustle of Pittsburgh, with its iron foundries, glass and 
 cotton works, &c. at a distance of 2500 miles fi-om the sea, 
 greatly impressed our traveller with a sense of enterprize and 
 resources of the States. B'rom Pittsburgh he made an excur- 
 sion, which occupied him 15 days. During this period he visit- 
 ed Cincinnati, Wheeling, and St Louis. He examined the 
 capabilities of Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, INIissouri, and part of 
 Kentucky, of course in a rather cursory way, but suflSciently to 
 satisfy himself with the favourable aspect of them all : the cli- 
 mate for his constitution he considered too warm, at least at this 
 season; but the productiveness of'the soil appeared to be all that 
 man could desire. In Ohio he visited a thriving settlement of 
 Scotch emigrants, where he was received with the kindness of a 
 brother. From Pittsburgh he directed his course towards the 
 banks of Lake Erie. The route lay through much fine scenery, 
 and the weather soon became sensibly more cool, and the appear- 
 ance of the people more healthy. The country is but thinly set- 
 tled. It abounds with lime and coals, and the crops are very good. 
 A road is now making to the Alleghany river, which wiU open a 
 comminiication with Pittsburgh, and greatly enhance the value 
 of property here. Land may be purchased hereabouts, from two 
 tO'ten dollars per acre. The farm of a Mr Campbell, lately de.
 
 366 APPENDIX. 
 
 ceased, was now in the market. It contained a good dwelling- 
 house, barn and other buildings, with two copper-stills and a 
 never-failing run of pure water. The price asked was fourteen 
 dollars per acre. The town of F.rie is on the southern bank, 90 
 miles from BuHiilo. Like all the respectable natives of Scot- 
 land, Mr Robertson paid everywhere much attention to the 
 means of religious instruction. He was much pleased with an 
 Indian villaae which he visited on a Sabbath, near Erie. He 
 savs, " The minister was a Presbyterian ; and I was not a little 
 astonished at finding them so respectable, and so attentive on 
 the worship of God. The minister was a good preacher, and 
 they seemed to be not a little affected with his sermon. I do 
 think that they would really aiiront many who have better op- 
 portunities, and wlio pretend to more." 
 
 Having stopt a day at Buffalo, which he reached by the 
 steam-boat from Erie, he entered Canada at Blackrock, and pro- 
 ceeded to the Falls, which seem to have impressed him with all 
 those feelings of admiration and of awe natural to a reflecting 
 mind on viewin<i Niagara. The distance from Blackrock to 
 Fort George, or Newark, where the river falls into Lake On- 
 tario, is li'^ miles ; and tliroughout this tract, INIr Kobertson ob- 
 serves, " There are as fine farms on the British side, as if they 
 liad been in the I^othians of Scotland. I had seen nothing equal 
 to them yet in all my travels, and the people look very healthy 
 like, more like the old country pe()j)le than any I have yet met 
 with. The country is more level than any I have travelled, 
 and, of course, easier to farm. I here saw fields of wheat bet- 
 ter than I have seen any Avhere else, Scotland not ercepted. I 
 met with an old Scotciunan on the road. His father was from 
 Ayrshire, and he himself was born in Canada. He owns three 
 farms a little below the Falls, and was on his way to Queenston 
 in search of shearers. He had liis gig, and gave me a ride, when 
 he understood I w^as from Scotland." 
 
 From York, the capital of Upper Canada, which pleased him 
 much, Mr Robertson visited some countrymen, settled in the 
 township of Esquising. He stopt a night with I\Ir John Mac- 
 farlane, ten miles above York. This gentleman was from 
 Strowan, near Blair-Athol, in Perthshire, had been seven years 
 out, nnd v.-"s drrir;.' wol'. '• I f unnl." sa . ■ 'Slv II olicrt -■!>!!. '■ many
 
 MR Robertson's notes. 367 
 
 of my countrymen here, and amongst them a friend of my own, 
 all in a thriving way. I saw in this place as good wheat, with^ 
 out ploughing, or I may say harrowing, as I ever saw in Scot- 
 land, with the best farmers, and with all their manoeuvres, and 
 how this comes about must be now explained. They cut the 
 wood in the fall of the year, or perhaps in the winter time, and 
 their cattle feed on the crops of the trees as thev fell them 
 down. The cattle like this better than any other fodder, and 
 this is of gi-eat use to a beginner, as he is often without means 
 of procuring other fodder for the few beasts he may possess. 
 The brushwood and logs being dragged together by his steers, 
 are burnt. The ashes he sells to the manufacturers of potash. 
 The stumps are generaU}^ left so high, that you would think at 
 a distance they were so many men standing among the corn. 
 This being done, the next fall he sows his wheat among the 
 stumps, without ploughing or digging, but applies his steers and 
 a haiTow, and covers his seed as well as he can ; and wonderful 
 in the eyes of an old country man, as I was, he has, after this 
 rough manner of husbandry, wheat that I am sure produces 
 from eight to ten bolls (four or five quarters) per acre, and that 
 is what 1 have seen with my own eyes. These stumps thus left 
 are very troublesome, till he gets them out, which cannot be 
 easily done. Hard-wood stumps require eight or ten years to 
 rot, and those of pine considerably more. This is the common 
 way of going to work with the inhabitants of this wooden coun- 
 try. When a man comes out without means, which is too com- 
 monly the case, for it is natural for every man to like to be a 
 farmer, and especially to be a laird, if he has as much as will 
 buy him one or two hundred acres, he immediately buys his 
 land, and perhaps leaves himself without a penny behind. He 
 then builds a log-house, and perhaps a log- barn, byre, &c. thus 
 sitting down without any thing but what he has put out on his 
 land. A\^ithout the means of subsistence, he is eighteen months 
 at least on his farm before he gets any of the produce of his la- 
 bour, but is creating debt upon his head ; and even in the se- 
 cond year he has but little return, so that he is still creating 
 debt, and is perhaps under the necessity of mortgaging his farm 
 before he gets through this strait ; so that if you were to see 
 men in this position durinj^ the first few years, vou would be
 
 368 APPENDIX. 
 
 ready to call them a thousand fools for ever coming to America ; 
 and a man would i)crhaj).s call liiniself so, with his neck in the 
 yoke every day, with nothing hut this fann, or rather, as he 
 thinks it, this name of a farm, looking at the rougliness of the 
 work, and the little progress he has made, with perhaps more 
 debt ujion it than its worth, and his livelihood as yet very in- 
 ditterent. W'iien he goes, however, to his next neighbour's 
 house, and sees him, if he has been ten years in his farm, with 
 plenty of every thing that he needs, his farm well cultivated, 
 and no debt, knowing that he was in the same position formerly 
 tliat he is in now, this cheers him up, and when he sees himself 
 still making a little progress, it encourages him, and makes him 
 bear the burden cheerfully. If you should come to the same 
 man's house five or eight years afterwards, and see him in a fine 
 frame-house, with a frame-bam, stables and byres, cattle and 
 riheep, and all manner of poultry, horses and his gig for everv 
 foot he would travel, you would not think this was the same 
 man, or the same farm, the face of things is so much changed ; 
 and when you sit down at his table, with nothing on it but his 
 own produce, you would be apt to think that this is surely a 
 tine country that furnishes these well plenished tables ; and in- 
 deed so it is, but not for idlers, but industry and hard labour 
 only can secure these things, so that the bitter comes before 
 the sweet. 
 
 " There is another class that comes to this country, without 
 any means, but barely what brings them to it. They ajjjjly 
 to Government for grants of land, and they do get it, (this lias 
 ceased as respects common settlers) ; but they must take their 
 land where Government sees fit to appoint, for you know beg- 
 gars must not be chusers. Whatever the society may be where 
 their lot is, there they must fix, and what is worse, is tlie ex- 
 pense of making out the|r title, as the officers contrive to make 
 them perhaps as high as a purchase, giving them credit, and of 
 I'ourse, when their time comes, if unable to pay, their land is 
 sold to the highest bidder. The taxes also help to this, for al- 
 though small, they may come to more in this period than the 
 peo])le can manage, and thus they may lose all tlieir labour. 
 Between such persons, and those who fall back from other 
 causes, improved farms, both here and in the States, are always
 
 MR UOBERTSOn's NOTES. 369 
 
 on sale ; besides, there are men who buy land for the express 
 purpose of improving and selling to profit. This is a regular 
 trade aU over America ; so that no man with capital, need be 
 airaid of getting farms of this kind in any part of the country ; 
 this I know by experience. There is another class still that 
 comes to this country, and that is labourers, both men and wo- 
 men, that think when they ai*e here, they may get what they 
 please to ask, and not only so, but that Jack is as good as his 
 employer, if not better ; and we all know that when the servant 
 is above his master, or as high, things will not do long that way, 
 and therefore every one avoids them, when they can do better. 
 Engagements are all by the month, and this I think against both 
 master and servant. Against the master, for he has no constant 
 serA'ant ; and against the servant, for he is perpetually changing, 
 losing his time, and spending his earnings. And now, a per- 
 son may naturally ask, what would you wish me to do, after 
 you have seen so much of both British America and the 
 States, and which do you prefer ? In answer to these questions 
 I would advise all who have a family, and whose capital is about 
 L. 100 clear of their passage out, and who are industrious and 
 willing to submit to such hardships as I have described, to such 
 I would say, the exchange will be favourable, and they will cer- 
 tainly reap the benefit in their old age. Also I would advise 
 the industrious labouring people, who are sober, to come to this 
 country, for they wiU. surely change to the better, both men 
 and women, if they have as much as will carry them out. 
 Smiths will always find a ready market in this country ; their 
 wages are so high, that many horses go unshod solely on ac- 
 count of the expense. A smith willing to work on more mo- 
 derate terms, would get double employ. Tailors and shoe- 
 makers, millwrights and millers, masons and carpenters, have 
 all good business in this country, and the farther into the inte- 
 rior the better. As to which of the places to prefer, British 
 America or the States, / would decidedly go to Upper Canada, as 
 the best place I have seen in all my travels, both for produce and for 
 a market. Wheat was selling in the remotest corner of Upper 
 Canada for a dollar per bushel ; while in Ohio, &c. it was only 
 about one half. The country bears all the crops which can be 
 raised in the States (cotton excepted), with this material difFer- 
 
 A a
 
 370 APPENDIX. 
 
 ence, th at the climate is better, and the people more healths, 
 which, in my opinion, ought surely to be looked to, as much as 
 any thing. Tiie taxes are as moderate, if not more so, than in 
 tlie States ; so that this is my opinion and my advice to any one 
 that likes to take it." 
 
 Mr Robertson proceeded down the St I^awrence to Quebec, 
 pleased with the Upper, but not so nmch so with what came 
 under his view in the Lower, Province, as an agricultural dis- 
 trict. From Quebec he sailed to I'ictou and Halitax, with 
 many poi'tions of the country near which towns, as also with 
 some other parts of these settlements, he was agreeably sur- 
 prized. For emigrants accustomed to fishing and maritime 
 pursuits, they certainly liold out especial encouragement. Air 
 Robertson returned to New York by Roston, and accomj)lished 
 his voyage home in safety and comfort, atibrding a good example 
 of energy and j)rudence to all who contemplate emigration, and 
 who, by confiding in the report of some qualified jierson selected 
 by a few families of the same neighbourhood or district, will be 
 enabled to form a plan of operation essentially conducive to 
 their ultimate success. 
 
 No. VII. 
 
 [ The following may prove interesting, as exhibiting the 
 ofgevts of Agricultural atteiition in Lower Canada.'] 
 
 AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF QUEBEC. 
 
 PATUOX. 
 
 His Excellency Matiiew Lord Aylmer, Governor-in-Chief. 
 District Exhibition on Wednesday before Easter, \8th April 18IJ2. 
 
 The following premiums will be awarded on tlie Upper 
 Town market-place on Wednesday K'th April 1832, at 10 
 in the forenoon. The samjdes and certificates must l)e deliver- 
 ed to F. X. VaiUancourt, Notary, Assistant- Secretary, as early 
 as the 29th March.
 
 AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF QUEBKC 371 
 
 Premiums for Grain. 
 
 Dols- 
 
 1. To the person who shall have reaped after a root crop 
 or other drill crop, the greatest weight and the best quali- 
 ty of wheat per arpent, on at least 2 arpents, .... 1 2 
 
 2. For the second greatest weight on 1 arpent, ... (J 
 
 3. To the person who shall have reaped after a drill 
 crop, the greatest weight per arpent of clean barley, on at 
 least 2 arpents, fi 
 
 4. For the next greatest weight on at least 1 arpent, . 4 
 " It may be remarked, that drill crops are more advan- 
 tageous than grain crops, as the land whi^h has been sub- 
 mitted to them the year preceding has been better ma- 
 nured, that the ground has been better opened by the fre- 
 quent ploughings which it is found necessary to make, and 
 that more care has been taken to destroy bad weeds by fre- 
 quently repeated weedings." 
 
 5. To the farmer who shall sow the greatest extent of 
 land with wheat selected seed by seed, and who shall reap 
 the greatest weight of the best quality per arpent, on at 
 least 6 arpents, 10 
 
 6. To the greatest weight and the best quality ditto on 
 
 at least 4 arpents, 6 
 
 7. For ditto ditto on at least 2 arpents, 3 
 
 8. For ditto ditto on at least 1 arpent, 2 
 
 The sample to be a quart taken indifferently from the 
 
 heap. 
 
 Vegetables and Hay. 
 
 9. To the person who shall raise on land which was in 
 standmg wood, and has been cleared in the ten months pre- 
 ceding, the best crop of turnips on at least 2 arpents, . . 10 
 
 10. For the next best crop ditto ditto (> 
 
 11. To the person who shall raise the greatest quantity 
 of potatoes on 4 arpents, harrowed or hoed three times to 
 prepare for grain crop, 10 
 
 12. To the best crop, per arpent, of yellow turnips, 
 Swedish turnips, choux de Siam, mangel wurzel, carrots or 
 other root crops, in drills, 27 inches apart at least, well 
 
 Aa2
 
 372 APPENDIX. 
 
 cleaned, the interval between the drills kept free of weeds 
 by jilougliiiig and harromng ; the whole housed and kept 
 in good condition, and used to feed cattle in winter, on at 
 least 4 arpents, 20 
 
 I'A. For the next greatest weight ditto, same conditions, 
 on at least 2 arpents, 1 
 
 1 4. For the next greatest quantity, same conditions, on 
 1 arpent, K 
 
 15 To the ])crson who shall have raised and kept in 
 good condition the greatest weight ])er arpent of timothy, 
 clover, franc-foin, or clean timothy clover, on at least 4 
 arpents, which bore grain after a root croj), anc' on which 
 the hay and gi-ain shall have been sown at the same time 
 wUliout manure for the hay crop, 20 
 
 IG. For ditto ditto on 2 arpents at least, 10 
 
 Hops. 
 
 17- To the person raising the greatest quantity and 
 best quality of merchantable hops fit for exportation, on 2 
 arjjents at least, lr> 
 
 1.3. For the next greatest weight ditto on 1 arpent at 
 least, .- « 
 
 1 !). For the next greatest weight ditto on half an arpent, 4 
 The hops must be put into sacks, each containing 250 lb. 
 Those wishing to conijjete, are to present to the com- 
 mittee suitable certificates, with a sample of one pound 
 weight. 
 
 Hat/ Seed and Veyetable. 
 
 20. For clean red clover-seed, raised in the district, not 
 less tlian one hundred-weight V, 
 
 21. For ditto ditto, not less than half a hundred- weight. t 
 
 22. For franc-foin seed, raised in this district, not less 
 than one hundred-weight 8 
 
 2 ,. For the greatest quantity and the best quality of 
 clean timothy -seed raised in this district, not less than 4 
 bushels, 8 
 
 24. For the greatest quantity and best quality of yel- 
 low field turnip-seel, not less than 50 lb U>
 
 AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF QUEBEC. 373 
 
 25. For ditto ditto Swedish turnips seed, ditto, ... 10 
 The samples of the seed are to be taken indifferently from 
 the heap. 
 
 Premiums on Crops from new Land. 
 
 26 To the person who shaU raise on new land which 
 was in standing wood, and was cleared and brought into 
 culture in the eighteen months preceding, the best crop of 
 
 wheat on at least 4 arpents, 15 
 
 27. For the best crop of oats, same conditions, ... 10 
 
 28. For the best crop of rye ditto 10 
 
 29. For the next best ditto 5 
 
 30. For the best crop of potatoes, ditto 10 
 
 31. For the next best, 5 
 
 32. For the best crop of turnips ditto ...... 10 
 
 33. For the next best, 5 
 
 Premiums for Flax. 
 
 34. To the fanner who shall sow the greatest extent 
 of land with flaxseed, at least 3 arpents, in the year 1831 ; 
 take up the crop at a convenient season ; bind it imme- 
 diately into small sheaves ; place it upright to dry the seed ; 
 when the seed is dry, thrash it to preserve it in good con- 
 dition ; then place the flax to steep in stagnant water for a 
 sufficient time ; take it out and expose it to dry ; when dry, 
 house and convert it into flax. On producing a certificate 
 of the produce of each arpent in flax and seed, with a sam- 
 ple of a pound of flax and a quart of seed, . . . ■ . 25 
 
 .35. For the next greatest quantity of land, not less than 
 two arpents, in the same manner, 1(1 
 
 36. To the next best not less than 1 arpent, .... 8 
 
 For raising Hemp. 
 
 37. To the farmer who shall sow hemp-seed, and get the 
 greatest return in weight and quality of seed and hemp 
 
 per arpent, or at least 3 arpents, 30 
 
 The hemp must be steeped in water after the seed is 
 thrashed. 
 
 A a 3
 
 374 APPENDIX. 
 
 C y Those wishing to compete for these prizes and fol- 
 lowing, may consult a little pamphlet entitled, " Manner 
 of cultivating and prcpaiing Flax and Hemp, published in 
 1 H20, by order and at the expense of the (Quebec Agricul- 
 tural Society." It may be obtained from the agents of 
 the Society in the different parishes of the district. 
 
 The competitors to the prizes preceding for flax may 
 also consult this little pamphlet. 
 
 The sample of dressed hemp sent to the committee must 
 be of 1 lb. taken indifferently, and the sample of seed of 
 one quart, also taken indifferently. 
 
 38. To the farmer who shall sow the next greatest quan- 
 tity of hemp seed, same conditions, on at least 2 arpents, . 25 
 
 39. To the next greatest extent of land, same conditions, 
 
 on 1 i arpent, 20 
 
 40. For the next greatest extent of land, same condi- 
 tions, on at least I arpent, 13 
 
 41. For the next greatest extent of land, same condi- 
 tions, on 4 arpent, 10 
 
 42. For the next greatest extent of land, same condi- 
 tions, on at least 4 arpent ^ 
 
 Agricultural Ejcperiments. 
 
 43. To the farmer who shall report to the Society the 
 manner the most expeditious and the least expensive to 
 clear new lands of woods, &c. stating what crops best suit 
 it, regard being had to the quality of the soil, for the three 
 first years ; the experiment to be made on 5 arpents at 
 least, 8 
 
 44. To the farmer who will draw up and exhibit to the 
 Society the best plan for a rotation of crops adapted to the 
 climate, soil, and market of this district, as well as to the 
 form and size of the ordinary farms, 16 
 
 45. To the farmer who shall have followed a regular ro- 
 tation of crops of grain and vegetables during at least the 
 last four yeai's, on at least 5 arpents, 16 
 
 46. To the farmer who shall exhibit to the Society the 
 most satisfactory details of experiments made to improve
 
 AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF QUEBEC. 375 
 
 the culture of any or the whole of the following kinds of 
 grain and plants, viz — wheat, rye, barley, oats, beans, 
 peas, buckwheat, turnips, cabbages, potatoes, carrots, 
 mangel wurzel, franc-foin, timothy, clover, lucerne, sahi- 
 foin, hemp, flax, and hops, 20 
 
 47. To the farmer who shall exhibit the most satisfac- 
 tory details of experiments on the efficacy and the cost of 
 the following manures, viz. — dung (green and decayed), 
 lime, plaster, burned clay, marl, street dung, salt and any 
 other kind of manure found in this Province, 20 
 
 48. To the person who shall have obtained 100 loads of 
 artificial manure, by heating the following substances or 
 parts thereof^ viz — sods, vegetable mould, road mud, 
 cleanings of drains and stable yards, pond mud, straw, 
 sweepings of barns, house sweepings, dead carcasses, re- 
 mains of hides and cloths, horns, wools, ashes, lime, dung 
 of every kind, plaster, all kinds of sea and aquatic weeds, 
 tree leaves, weedings of gardens, fern, salt or sea water, 
 urine, human excrements, the dregs of tanners' tubs, suds, 
 poisonous weeds, &c. corrupted meat and fish, dregs of oU, 
 
 the waters in which flax or hemp have been steeped, . . 20 
 
 49. To the person giving the most satisfactory details 
 of experiments on at least 5 arpents on the advantage of 
 plaster or gypsum as a manure, 10 
 
 50. For the best nursery of apple or other finiit trees, 
 engrafted, not less than 200 plants, 20 
 
 51. For the best ditto with wild trees, ready to be trans- 
 planted or engrafted, not less than 1000 plants, .... 10 
 
 Clotks and Linens of Home Manufacture. 
 
 52. To the person who shall make or cause to be made 
 the best cloth called itojfe, or any kind whatever, not less 
 than 20 eUs, 8 
 
 53. For the next best, not less than 15 ells, .... 6 
 
 54. To the person who shall manufacture the best and 
 finest sail-cloth from hemp, not less than 10 ells, ... 8 
 
 55. For the next best, not less than 10 ells, .... 6 
 50". To the person who shall manufacture the finest and
 
 370 APPENDIX. 
 
 best linens of flax with a machine, No. 10, not loss than 10 
 ells, 12 
 
 57. For the next best, 10 
 
 58. To the person who shall manufacture the finest and 
 best sail-cloth from hemp threail, not less than 10 ells, . 8 
 
 59. For the next finest and best, G 
 
 To the person who shall from his own sheep obtain the 
 
 greatest quantity of wool of the finest quality, 
 
 To the next finest and best. 
 
 The Committee in awarding these premiums will par- 
 ticularly examine the quality of th3 flax and wool, the 
 fineness of the thread of the cloth, and of the regularity of 
 the tissue. The competitors will present to the commit- 
 tee the pieces of cloth or linen, with certificates that they 
 have manufactured or caused them to be manufactured. 
 The certificate may be presented on the day of the exhibi- 
 tion. The committee will consider the flax employed in 
 manufacture, which wUl have been steeped in water as 
 
 preferable. 
 
 Fatted Oxen and Sheep. 
 
 These will be exposed alive on the Wednesday before 
 Easter, 18th April 18;J2, on the Upper Town Market- 
 riace, at 10 in the forenoon, 
 
 60. For the ox of Canadian breed, the best and fatlt^st, 
 fattened on green food, 12 
 
 6i. For the next best, 10 
 
 62. For the next best, H 
 
 6.3. For the next best, fi 
 
 64. For the fattest and best ox of any breed, fattened 
 
 on green food, 12 
 
 65. For the next best, 10 
 
 66. For the next best, « 
 
 67. For the next best, 6 
 
 68. For the greatest number of oxen, fattened on green 
 food, not less than 8, 8 
 
 69. For the next greatest number, not less than 4, . . 12 
 
 70. For the 6 liest and fatted sheej), castrated before 2 
 months old, fed and fattened on green food, 10
 
 AGRICULTURAL, SOCIETY OF QUEBEC. 377 
 
 71. For the 6 next best, f> 
 
 72. For the 4 next best, 4 
 
 Bees. 
 
 The Committee will award the following prizes at their 
 first meeting after the 1st June 1830 : 
 
 73. To the person who shall have wintered the greatest 
 number of bees' hives, and have preserved them in the 
 best state, not less than three, 1st prize, . 8 
 
 71. Second prize, 6 
 
 (Signed) By order of the Committee, 
 
 F. X. Vaillancourt, 
 
 Assistant-Secretary of the Agricultural 
 Society of Quebec. 
 
 The folloiving Table, as in March 1832, may be of some inlerest, 
 as exhibiting tlie expense of living in the large Mercantile or 
 Military Towns of Canada, and the prude7ice of settlers shm-tening 
 their sojourn in such places ; and also, of shewing tJie returns which 
 farmers within reach of such markets, may expect to realize. 
 
 PRICES OF PROVISIONS SOLD IN THE MARKETS OF 
 
 QUEBEC. 
 
 In the Butchers'' Stalls. 
 
 Beef, per lb £0 5 @ X'O 6 
 
 Pork, per do 6... 007 
 
 Veal, per do 5 ... fi 
 
 Mutton, per do 9 ... 10 
 
 Lamb, per quarter ... 7 
 
 In the Markets. 
 
 Beef, per lb £0 4 @ £0 5 
 
 Pork, per do 5 ... 6 
 
 Mutton, whole, (none) ... 
 
 Mutton, per qr. (do.) ... 
 
 Veal, per do 2 6 ... 5
 
 378 APPENDIX. 
 
 Salt butter, per lb £0 11 
 
 Fresh, do. per do 1 C 
 
 Venison, per do. (none) .... 
 
 ^faple Sugar, jier II) 4 
 
 Tallow, per lb 8 
 
 Turkeys, per couple, (none) . • . • 
 
 Geese, per do. (do.) 
 
 Ducks, per do 2 9 
 
 Fowls, per do 3 
 
 Chickens, per do. (none) .... 
 
 Partridges, per do 4.'} 
 
 Hares, per do 18 
 
 Pigeons, per dozen, (none) . . . 
 
 Eggs, per do 9 
 
 Salmon, whole, (none) 
 
 Fresh Cod Fish, lb. (none) . . . 
 
 Sturgeon, per do. do 
 
 Turnips, per minot, 19 
 
 Potatoes, per do 1 (> 
 
 Cabbages, per 100, (none) .... 
 
 Onions, per 100, 3 
 
 Hay, per 100 bundles, 4 
 
 Straw, per 100 do. (none) .... • 
 
 Do. per bundle, 3 
 
 Oats, per minot, 3 
 
 Peas, per do 7 6 
 
 Flour, per cwt 1 .5 
 
 Wood, per cord, 15 
 
 :o 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 
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