THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES THE OF -"tees* THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID ft .•-- :--x;-^- V .♦ PRACTICAL NOTES. PRACTICAL NOTES MADE DURING A TOUR IN CANADA, AND A PORTION OF THE UNITED STATES, IN MDCCCXXXI. BY ADAM FERGUSSON, OF WOODHILLj ADVOCATE. DEDICATED BY PERMISSION TO THE HIGHLAND SOCIETY OF SCOTLAND. « VIDI." WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH ; AND T. CADELL, STRAND, LONDON. MDCCCXXXIII. r'RINTBD BV NKI1.L & CO. OLD PISHMARK£T. r TO THE PRESIDENT, VICE-PRESIDENTS, AND DIRECTORS OF THE HIGHLAND SOCIETY OF SCOTLAND. My Lords axd Gentlemen, To whom can I with equal propriety, and with so much honour to myself, address these humble pages, as to the Official Department of that Patriotic Association, under whose kind and flattering encourage- ment I was first led to preserve my cursory remarks. An Institution so pre-eminently distinguished as the Highland Society, woidd require to exercise the most fastidious reserve regarding publications which may issue under t/ie sanction of its name. While it is my duty, tlierefore, and my pride , to acknowledge the kind ccmfidence of the Directors, in extending to me a permissio?i which it is unusual to grant, I must, in the most unequivocal tnannenr, exonerate the Society from any concurrence in the views of the Author, arising from the mere fact of having accepted his humble dedication.a-s. r— o /-> r' <r & VI DEDICATION. The growing importance of our Tra7is-Atlantic Colonies, the strong tide of emigration setting in totcards tile American Continent, and the tiiousands of Cale- donias sons already established there, must excite a desire to possess the sentiments and observations of everjf impartial man, who may visit these distant shores. To honesty and candour alone tvill I lay claim ; and, if possessed of any talent for correctly judging upon rural affairs, I hesitate not to ascribe such ac- quirement, to tiie opportunities and inducements afforded me, from mixing in the business of the Society, and disclmrging, however inadequately, the duties of a Di- rector at its Board. I have the honour to remain, My Lords axd Gentlemen, Your obliged atid obedient Servant, ADAM FERGUSSOX. Edinbuhuh, December 1833. TO THE PUBLIC. Well may the Reader exclaim, whose eye shall glance upon my title-page. What ! Canada again ! Another and another yet ! No doubt some catchpenny for failing farmers, or webless weavers. — Reasonable and natural surmises, I admit, and to which I can only oppose the sim- ple assurance, that in launching this little bark, my paramount object has been to assist the views of those who may contemplate a removal to other climes. That these constitute a pretty numerous and an increasing body, no man can deny; and that, where truth bears us out, it is essential to direct their industry and capital to the Colonies of Britain, no friend of his country will dispute. If there are those who consider the §un of Britain about to set, I disclaim all participation nil TO THE PUBLIC. in their fears. That our position is critical I admit ; but, with liberality and firmness in our Rulers, and with moderation and good sense in the great body of the Nation, and, above all, by humble reliance upon Almighty God, the Little Island will float triumphant yet. The sentiments of a candid and intelligent citizen of the States, lately expressed to me, de- serve to be deeply weighed. " Even," says he, " with your present burden of debt, if your Go- vernment were to renounce all interference with the affairs of the Continent, and keep no more force, land or naval, than is necessary for yoiur own security; have no more wars ; and diminish the expenditure as much as possible; you would grow so rapidly in the next fifty years, that your debt would cease to be of any importance. I earnestly hope that the passage of the Reform Bill may be only the prelude to an entire change of system, and that your successors may feel, as we do here, that wars do not promote the pros- perity of a nation, and have the good sense to avoid them." Whether at any, or at what period, our Nortli American Colonies mav cast off the Parent TO THE PUBLIC. IX State, are questions in the womb of Time. Let the policy of both be, meanwhile, directed to foster a conciliatory spirit, ready to meet any emergency which may occur, and to prove, that the costly experience of time past has not been thrown away, whether the event may terminate in sepaiation or adherence. CONTENTS. PART I. CHAPTER I. Page Extract of Minutes of the Highland Society — Edinburgh to Manchester — Celebrated Railway to Liverpool — Short interim excursion to Chester and Menai Strait — Embark at Liveri^ool for New York — Packet encoun- ters heavy gales — Luminousness of the Ocean, . 1~]4 CHAPTER II. Arrival off Sandy Hook— City of New York—Excellent Accommodation of Bunker's Hotel — American Society — Thorburn's Seed-store, lo-,24 CHAPTER III. Steam Voyage up the Hudson — The Dinner on Board — State Prison of Sing Sing — Military College of West Point — City of Albany — Senate and House of Assem- bly — Superiority of the American Breed of Horses — Albany Museum — American Character for Inquisi- tiveness, 24^30 CHAPTER IV. Phaeton Excursion up the Banks of the Hudson to Easton — Join the Stage-Coach for Whitehall — Bad Roads — Village ofSandy Hill— Town of WhitehaU, . 40„52 XII CONTENTS- CHAPTER V. Page Lake Champlain — Embark in a Steamer for Canada — Ticondcroga — Plattsburgli — St John's — Waggon-tra- velling to ha Prairie — Execrable State of the Roads Steam-boat from La Prairie to Montreal, . . 53~(i3 CHAPTER VI. City of Montreal — Ice in the River St La^\Tence — Mar- kets — 3Ir S.'s Notes regarding the Indians of the Western Country — Excursion by Steam to Quebec — Sliort Account of the City — Plains of Abraham — Re- turn to JMontreal, 64^80 CHAPTER VII. Visit to the Upper Provinces — Coach Journey to La Chine — Steam-boat Travelling on the St Lawrence — Land Travelling in a non-descript Vehicle — Canadian Roads — Town of Prescot, 81^91 CHAPTER VIII. Voyage from Prescot to Kingston — The Thousand Islands — Town of Kingston — Rideau Canal — Excursion on Quinte Bay — Voyage on Lake Ontario to Queenston — Anecdotes of the Frontier War, . . . 92.,103 CHAPTER IX. Falls of Niagara — Journey to York — An Extra, or Ame- rican Post-Chaisc — Newark — The While Fish of the Lakes — Town of York — Government-House, 104„11.'> CHAPTER X. Stage-coach Journey through Toronto and Trafalgar Townships— The " Farmer's Inn"—" Summer's T;u vern" — Nelson Township — Visit to Guelph Town — A Forest Ride — Negro Family, .... 116^124 CONTENTS. XIll CHAPTER XI. Page Town of Guelph — Visit to Gait Farm — Equestrian Excur- sion to Brandtford and Hamilton — Interview with a Scotch Borderer— Mohawk Village, . . . 125^140 CHAPTER XII. Journey from Hamilton to Grimsby and St Catharine's — Return to Niagara — American Fall — Goat Island — Leaping the Fall — A Canadian Spring Day, . 141^148 CHAPTER XIII. Visit to Buffalo — Hints to Emigrants as to the Choice of a Situation in Canada — Means of Education — Prices of Live-Stock, Implements, Produce. Labour. Furni- ture, 149^162 CHAPTER XIV. Town of Buffalo — The Bank — American Hotels — Track- Boat on the Erie Canal for Rochester — Floating Me- nagerie — Deposit of Fossil Wood in progress to Coal — Anecdotes of New Orleans by an American Travel- ler, 163~172 CHAPTER XV. Town of Rochester — Aqueduct across the Genesee — Wa- terfall — Sam Patch — Stage-coach to Canandaigua — State of the Country — To^vn of Canandaigua — Mode of preserving Ice, 173~182 CHAPTER XVI. Town of Geneva — Value of Land — Small' Town of Au- burn — Its State Prison — Journey to Utica — The Town — Road to Schenectady — Sir AVilliam Johnston — Tra- velling from Schenectady to Albany — Return by Steam- er to New York — Altered Face of the Country, . 183<,194 XIV CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. Past- Steam-boat and Coach Journey to Philadelphia — Intelli- gent American Grazier — Bordentown— Joseph Bona- parte — Banks of the Delaware — City of Philadelphia — Oppressive Heat — Visit to Laurelhill — Sail down the Delaware, and through Chesapeake Bay to Baltimore, 195^204 CHAPTER XVIII. City of Baltimore— Journey to Washington — Internal Slave-trade denounced — Capital of the United States — Halls of Congress and Senate, and the Capitol — Inter- view with General Jackson, the President — Visit to Mount Vernon — Tomb of General Washington — Re- turn to New York, 205^222 CHAPTER XIX. Character of the Americans — Jealousy of Independence Catechetical Propensity — Pedantic Nomenclature — Peculiar Phraseology — Personal Habits — Servants or Helps Respect for the Fair Sex — State of Religion and ftlorality — American Constitution and Pul)lic ]Men Misrepresentations of the Quarterly Review and Captain Basil Hall, 223-250 CHAPTER XX. Embark in the George Canning for England — Account of the Great Sea Serpent confirmed^— Arrival at Liver- pool 25U2.56 CONTENTS. XV PART 11. CHAPTER I. Page Lower Canada — Climate — Soil — ^Agriculture — Markets — Upper Canada — Lumber-trade — Bay of Quinte — Value of Land — York — Canada Company, . . 259-,273 CHAPTER II. Head of Lake Ontario — Toronto District — Guelph — Township of Waterloo — of (rait — of Paris — Prices of Farm produce, 274-,28!) CHAPTER III. Emigration to the States — Albany — Valley of the Hud- son — Value of various Farms — Produce and Prices — Genesee Country — Michigan, .... 290.^314 APPENDIX. No. I. Territory of Michigan, 317 II. Note regarding Pauperism in England; with some Suggestions upon Emigration, .... 342 III. Advice to Emigrants, 351 IV. Information to Emigi'ants, 359 V. City of the Falls, 360 VI. Mr Robertson's Notes, 364 VII. Agricultural Society of Quebec, . . . .371 ERRATUM. Page 2(i8, line -28, for any reai my PRACTICAL NOTES. PART I. CHAPTER I. Extract of Minutes of the Highland Society — Edinburgh to Manchester — Celebrated Railway to Liverpool — Short in- terim excursion to Chester and Menai Strait — Embark at Liverpool for New York — Packet encounters heavy gales — Luminousness of the Ocean. Having long entertained a desire to visit the United States and Canada, for the purpose of satisfying- my- self regarding the actual condition and prospects of Agricultural Settlers in these countries, I left Edin- burgh upon the 12th February 1831 for Manchester, with the view of embarking at Liverpool. Previous to leaving Scotland, I communicated my intention to the Directors of the Highland Society, who kindly honoured me with the following letter : " The Directors having been apprized by Mr Fer- gusson of Woodhill of his intention to visit Canada and the United States of America, it has appeared A 2 LETTER FROll DIRECTORS OF to tlieni, that tliis may ufFord a favourable opportu- nity of obtaining' such information reg'arding- those countries, as may prove beneficial to rural economy and the useful arts at home. The zealous and va- luable assistance which tlie Highland Society of Scot- land has received from Mr Fergusson, as a Member and Director, and his knowledge and experience ac- quired in the long and honourable discharge of every duty of a country gentleman, afford an assurance to the Directors, that he will be eminently attentive to all such circumstances connected with the state of industry and the useful arts in the rich and magni- ficent countries which he is to visit, as may tend to promote the improvement of those arts in his own. " The Directors will therefore receive with the highest satisfaction, such information as IMr Fergus- sou may from time to time connnunicate reg'arding- the arts and natural productions of the New World, as well as on the subject of eniig'ration, and the con- dition of the emigrants ; and should he meet with associations similar to this Society in the purposes of their institution, the Directors authorize him to open up Avith them such a friendly intercourse as may lead to mutual good offices, and an interchange of useful information. " The J^ircctors in taking leave for a time of a gen- tleman with whom they have been so long associated in all the useful labours of this Society, and whose personal character and private worth they have so much cause to appreciate, feel it a duty to record their warmest acknowledgments for the long, assi- THE HIGHLAND SOCIETY. 3 duous and valuable assistance which he has rendered to the Highland Society ; their anxious desire that he should soon again be enabled to resume the duties which he has so well fulfilled ; and their cordial wishes for his success in the objects which he now contemplates by visiting the United States of Ame- rica, and the Colonies of Great Britain. ' " The Chairman is requested to communicate to Mr Fergussou an extract of these minutes. " Pat. Murray, Chairman^ "Highland Society Hall, Edinburgh,) U February ViS-ii:' J Immediately upon m.y return, I sent them a short statistical account of my tour ; and as it contains mat- ter not so minutely detailed in my Notes, I have given it entire as the Second Part of this work. A heavy fall of snow which had lately blocked up the roads was fast dissolving, and the Tweed, with its tributary streams, was rolling along in mighty flood. The country wore a wintry aspect, but the numerous plantations on every hand enlivened the scene. I was amused by the remark mentioned by a fellow-passenger, as having been made by a gentle- man lately returned from India, who, upon being asked if the great Improvements during liis absence did not fill him with delight, replied that he could by no means join in their admiration, as the whole country was, in his opinion, " running to jungle^' A 2 4 LIVERPOOL AND MANCHKSTBR RAILWAY. Having formoily visited the maiiufiutories of Maii- chester, I proceeded without delay to Liverpool, by the far-famed railway. We started with eight car- riages attached to the engine with such imperceptible motion, that it was only, when I found myself un- able to read a milestone, or to distinguish the fea- tures of those who darted past in the opposite direc- tion, that I was led to consult my wati^li for the rate of travelling, when I found, to my surprise, that the next five miles were done in fifteen minutes; nor was it possible, from the precautions so judiciously taken, to feel either anxiety or dread. The project of tliis railway was first discussed in 1822 ; subsequently, Mr Sanders of Liverpool adopt- ed the scheme, and, by being guarantee for the ex- penses of the first survey, he may be considered as the father of the imdertaking. It met with great opposition in Parliament, and, before the act could be obtained to proceed with the work, the cost en- tailed on the parties engaged in the contest was at least from L. 60,000 to L. 70,000. On the 19th of Jime 1826, Mr G. Stephenson Avas appointed principal engineer to the company, by the directoi's, and, in the same month, the actual opera- tion was begun on Chat Moss, near Manchester. The first shaft of the Liverpool tunnel was opened in September of the same year. During the Avhole of the year IS'27, the formation of the tunnel was carried forward, night and day, with great spirit. It was constructed in seven or eight separate lengths, communicating with the surface by as many upright LIVERPOOL AND MANCHESTER RAILAVAY. 5 shafts ; and tlie junction of the various cuttings was completed in June 1828, with the greatest accuracy, and in a manner highly creditable to the talents of the engineer. On the 1st January 1830, the Rocket, locomotive engine, constructed by Mr Stephenson, with a carriage and passengers, passed over Chat Moss for the first time. The total expense of the railway, including its machinery and carriages, is estimated at L. 820,000; and allowing the length of the whole line to be thirty- two miles, the expense, per mile, will be L. 25,625, or at the rate of nearly 14 guineas per lineal yard. Large as the expenditure has been, it is highly satisfactory to know that the undertaking will be a source of handsome remuneration to the company. I understand that, during the twelve months which have elapsed since the opening of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway, about 460,000 persons have passed between the two towns. The sum received for the conveyance of passengers and goods during the same period has been upwards of L. 1 90,000. From the powers of the locomotive engines on the railroad, goods and passengers are conveyed from Liverpool to Manchester, a distance of thirty-two miles, in about two hours. As a contrast to this rapid transmission between the towns, the following statement may not be out of place. A stage-coach was first established between Liverpool and Man- chester in 1767. The roads were then so bad that the coach was drawn by six, and occasionally by eight, horses, and it required the whole of the day to 6 LIVERPOOL AND MANCHESTER RAILWAY. perform the journey. An old gentlenvin, now resi- dent in Liverpool, relates that, between fifty and sixty years ago, he occasionally visited Manchester, when the coach started early in the morning from Liverpool ; the passengers breakfasted at Prescot, dined at Wiirrington, and arrived sometimes in time for supper at Manchester. On one occasion, at War- rington, after dinner, the coachman intimated his anxiety to proceed ; when he was requested by the company to take another pint and wait a little longer, as they had not finished their wine, asking him at the same time if he was in a hurry ; " Why," re- plied John, " I'm not partic'lar as to an hour or so" Among other regulations, a watchman perambu- lates every half-mile to detect any stone or other dangerous impediment upon the rail. As he sees the carriages approaching, if all be right, he stops and extends his arm in sufficient time to enable the engineer to stop the train, should that signal of safety not be displayed. Some accidents undoubtedly hap- pen, but they may be traced, in almost every in- stance, to a want of ordinary prudence and attention in the unhappy sufferers. As we bowled along, a little circumstance, more ludicrous than dangerous, occasioned a small loss of time. Tin; hook by which No. 2. was attached to No. 1. suddenly gave way, and the engine, with one carriage only, shot off like lightning, leaving the others to follow as they best could. The alarm was, however, quickly given, the engine reversed its movement, while our impetus carried us yet steadily forward, and the whole affair LIVERPOOL. 7 was speedily adjusted. The tunnelling and cutting upon some portions of the line are stupendous, and the whole stands a magnificent sample of enterprise and scientific skill. The consternation occasioned among the coach- pi'oprietors on the line, by this wholesale mode of travelling, was of course great, and heavy individual losses necessarily incurred, with much jealousy and ill-will towards the intruder. A knight of the whip, who had been forced to drop his reins, mustered up resolution one morning to take a trip by the railway, and, in spite of a very reasonable stock of indigna- tion, soon felt his asperity giving way under the ex- citement of such a slapping pace, and, ere he had pro- ceeded far,', exclaimed in ecstasy to the engineer, " Come now, my lad, that's it, do boil us up a bit of a gallop." Liverpool, the mighty Tyre of modern times, is a scene of wealth and bustle which must strike the most indifferent observer. Commerce reigns here with unbounded sway ; and it is pleasing to observe how the extinction of one appalling branch, so long engrossing the enterprise and capital of Liverpool, has been succeeded by an overwhelming tide of pros- perity and success. The kind friends to whom I was consigned in Liverpool made me happy in every respect, save the uneasiness I felt at trespassing upon their valuable time ; and, as certain arrangements required the post- ponement of our departure until the 24th, I resolved upon visiting the ancient city of Chester. I had a 8 CITV OF CHESTKR. very pleasant ride, for half-a-croitm, crossing the Mersey by an oblique ferry of seven miles, in a steamer. Chester, one of the most ancient cities in England, is finely situate upon the Dee, which di- vides it from Wales. It is walled round, and the ramparts afford an agreeable promenade, with fine views of the Welsh mountains and rich plains of Cheshire. The ijiterior of the town is, however, more remarkable, the streets having been originally hollowed out in such a way as left the citizens an opportunity of assailing unwelcome visitors from covered galleries above, and which run like terraces through most parts of the town. These cloisters, known by the name of rows, form an agreeable lounge, and, being extremely well suited for assigna- tions, suggested an explanation (perhaps rather fan- ciful) of the common phrase, " communicating some- thing under the rows," which, as applied to a flower, seems sufficiently absurd. There is a very fine jail, a court-house, &c. ; and a magnificent stone bridge is now erected upon the Dee, the centre arch of which is probably the largest in the world, being a span of 200 feet. At a remote period, Chester was a sea-port, but the waves have long ceased to break against its walls, and a noble domain, of 7000 or 8000 acres, now belongs to the Dee Company, by charter from Lord Crew, whose family originally ac- quired this valuable manor from the ocean. I lodged in Chester at the Albion, an hotel in every way com- fortable, and particularly commending itself to me, from an instance of liberality in Mr Willoughby the EXCURSION TO MENAI BRIDGE. 9 landlord, rarely to be met with, aud not to be ex- pected. A gentleman in the hotel, with whom I passed the evening-, represented to me the wonders of the Menai Bridge, in such glowing terms, that a strong desire was excited to pay it a visit. A glance at my bill, however, in the morning quickly satisfied me that ray purse, prepared only for a day in Chester, was quite unequal to an excursion into Wales. I thought it worth a chance, however, to broach the matter to mine host, who, in the handsomest terms, offered me at once any accommodation, and made me perfectly at ease, a piece of civility and confidence enhanced by the circumstance of having entered his hotel without an article of luggage beyond my great- coat. We crossed the Dee, and proceeded for Ban- gor, a distance of sixty-four miles. The country is beautiful, especially in the vale of Clwyd and Con- way. The cultivation I should consider slovenly. Two-horse ploughs are, however, pretty general, but scarce a field of turnips is to be seen. The Tees- water cattle seem to be coming into favour, and Colonel Hughes, (since raised to the peerage), who owns a beautiful place and princely estate at St George, sets a good example, in cultivating green crops, adopting improved implements, &c. A large portion of this estate is rich alluvial deposit, yielding the heaviest wheat of the district ; yet, such is the poor state of culture, that I was informed the pro- duce never exceeded two or three quarters per acre. The rent is twenty-five shillings, and the tithe and poor-rate probably from three shillings to five shil- 10 EXCURSION TO MENAI BRIJ)GE. lings more. The river at Conway is crossed by JV suspension-ljridge, and has been made to liarmonize in excellent taste, with the ancient towers and ram- parts of the castle. Soon after leav-ing Conway, we come to the frown- ing promontory of Penmanmawr, along the side of which the road has been hewn from the solid rock, and forms certainly an ajtpalling- pass — the rough mountain face on one hand, and the Atlantic raging beneath the precipice on the other. The wind, charged with drifted sand, blows frequently M-ith tremendous violence at this point ; and it has hap- pened more than once that the mail-coach has been fairly obliged to turn back to Conway. The coun* try from this to Bangor is still indifferently farmed, and large flocks of small half-starved sheep, resem- bling our old Scotch tawny-faced breed, were pick- ing a scanty living over the naked fallows ; the soil good loam, y<'t not an acre of turnips to be seen. Penrylin Castle, belonging to Mr Pennant, the owner of extensive slate -quarries and a fine estate, is close to Bangor. Tlu> castle is a heavy-looking pile, in a park surrounded by a fine wall, seven miles in extent, and approached by a gateway, which alone is said to have cost L. 10,000, The constant inter- course on this road with Ireland, and the dangerous uncertainty of the f(M-ry at Bangor across the Menai Strait, suggested the expediency of erecting a sus- pension-bridge, which the genius and science of Tel- ford soon carried into effect. This elegant and use- ful structure imites the mainland to the Isle of An- MENAI BRIDGE. 11 glesea, on the great line of Parliamentary roacl to Holyhead. It is above 1717 feet in length, and must strike all who visit it as a work of no ordinary achievement. In standing- upon the bridge, sus- pended by massive chains, and beholding a stately vessel passing, at the depth of 100 feet below, it is impossible not to feel impressed with the magnitude and boldness of the attempt. Had it been effected at the expense of private individuals, we should have regretted the failure of pecuniary returns. The es- tablishment of steam-vessels from Liverpool to Dub- lin has seriously diminished the pontage of Menai, by diverting the stream of travellers into another channel ; but it was executed as a national concern, and the public exchequer bears the loss. The bridge cost L. 200,000, and the toll is at present less than L. 1000 per annum. I regretted that it was not in my power to see more of Wales at this time. The country is beau- tiful ; the peasantry, so far as I saw, civil and indus- trious. Many ancient customs are kept up by the Cambrians, none perhaps more simply interesting than the attention paid by relatives to the graves of departed friends, of which some are carefully secur- ed with matting of straw, and all are decorated with evergreens and flowers. It is now, however, time to embark for the ulti- mate object of my journey. Upon returning to Li- verpool, I found, that, by great exertions, the packet- ship York, in which we were to sail, had discharged her American cargo, and replaced it in the short 12 EMBARKATION AT I.rVKUPOOL. space of six days, and that Captain Bnrsloy was pre- pared to sail upon tlu' 24tli. We embarked accord- ingly tliat morning, and joined the ship by a steamer, which continued to tow us for some time against a head wind. The packet-ships between New York and Liverpool are of the very first class, equally re- markable for comfort and safety. Accidents are ex- tremely rare ; and the unfortunate loss of the Al- bion upon the Irish coast, some years ago, is gene- rally ascribed to a hazard which no captain would now encounter. The regular packets had been at tliat period recently established, and tradiiig vessels used every manoBuvre to discredit them by superior sailing. A gale had driven the Albion close upon the Irish coast, but an offing might have been gain- ed, had the attempt been made in time. Unfortu- nately the captain delayed till it was too late, trust- ing to make Liverpool next morning, and, when he did endeavour to escape, by carrying a press of sail, his masts went by the board, and the ship drifted on the rocks of Kinsale, where almost every individual perished. The routine of a sea-life is subject to little varia- tion. Our cabin-j)arty consisted only of five, this being a season of the year when a stormy passage is commonly anti(i]»ated. The weather was cold, and the wind most unpropitious. On the third day we were ftivoured with an unexpected addition, by the discovery of a passenger amongst the hay provided for our live-stock. lie had managed to secrete him- self while the ship was in dock, and, having lived GALES AT SEA. 13 very much like bruin by sucking his paws, was suffi- ciently wo-begone when brought to light, and by no means cordially welcomed by the captain, who is bound, before getting rid of such volunteers, to grant security at New York that they shall not become burdensome as paupers. For twenty long days we contended with heavy gales a-head, and the eccentric movements, occasion- ed by the rolling of the ship, were sufficiently divert- ing to those who could preserve an equilibrium, or maintain their post at table. After a time, however, I was able to admire the mechanism and manage- ment of the ship, stemming the mighty waters of the Atlantic, and began to enjoy the novelty of my si- tuation. It is difficult to describe the thrill which the landsman feels, as he contemplates a billow, many feet higher than the deck, rushing onward in its irresistible course, and threatening to overwhelm the ship, while yet he finds, in the anxious moment of collision, that, far from being engulfed, he is borne aloft in delightful buoyancy, plunges into the deep valley beyond, and mounts again the rolling waves in endless succession. Still it is to him a sensation not unaccompanied with anxious thoughts, and he feels himself compelled to reflect how little there is between him and a watery grave. The prismatic co- lours so frequently observed by day, and the bril- liant pliosphorescence which flashes from the spray by night, are subjects of interest and wonder to the voyager. The latter eff'ect produced by the motion of the vessel, or by the agitation of a storm, is sin- 14 LUiMINOUSNESS OP THE OCEAN. gularly beautiful. It is generally ascribed by natu- ralists to phosjdioric aniinalcula. On the night of the 30th, a heavy gale blowing from the south-west, I was called on deck by Captiiin B., to witness this appearance, in a degree which, he said, was rare. The ship was rnniiing about nine knots an hour, and cut her way through liquid fire. The spray from her bow seemed one sheet of light, while the broken surface of the ocean, for miles around, glistened with like splendour. It was an impressive scene, the re- collection of which is not to be easily effaced. Our voyage continued tedious and uncomfortable with re- gard to weather, and little occurred to vary the scene. For days together the weather was such as to prevent the captain from taking an observation. One morning a vessel appeared on our weather-bow, which seemed to have suffered much from the storm, and we lay-to for some hours, until she came under our stern. She proved to be the British mail-packet Reindeer, bound for Halifax and Bermudas, out thirty-seven days, and had lost foremast and bow- sprit, in the heavy gales which we had lately en- countered. They were busied in rigging a jury- foremast, seemed to have a stout crew, and their captain declined any assistance. ( lo ) CHAPTER 11. Arrival off Sandy Hook— City of New York — Excellent ac- commodation of Bunker's Hotel — American Society— Thorburn's Seed-store. On the 5tli of April, our fortieth day at sea, we made the high land of Jersey and Staatens Island, and a joyful sight it was ; for, as was long' ago ob- served, a ship, in the most favourable view, is but a prison afloat, with the agreeable contingency of be- ing- drowned. The Americans keep a sharp look-out for news from Eiu-ope, and more than one newspaper has a fast-sailing cutter constantly cruising off Sandy- Hook, to intercept the packets or other vessels. We were boarded, about sixteen miles off-land, by one of these quid mines, and, having given him our jour- nals, we had the satisfaction of finding that, tedious as our voyage had been, we had beat the New- York, a packet which had sailed four days before us, and also the Thomas Dickason, a crack ship, which left the Mersey along with ourselves. The scenery of the American coast is rather tame at this point ; but the Bay of New York, after pass- ing the Forts, is magnificent, and the approach to the city very fine. We got ashore about three o'clock, and were conveyed, in a particularly clean 16 ACCOMMODATION OF BUNKER's HOTEL. and neat hackney-coach, to the Mansion-House Ho- tel in Broadway, kept by Mr Bunker. I was struck with the superior character of tlie hackney liorses to those of our cities, and I may add also of those in cars and wag-gons. They were all in excellent plight, and the latter, if not equal in size to those in English drays, infinitely surpassed them in action. The hackney-coach fares in New York are high, and are moreover annoying to strangers, from the practice of paying for each passenger, when exceeding one, and also for luggage. New York is well provided with hotels of every degree. Our ac- commodation at Bunker's was excellent. The house is extensive, though not so much so as the City Ho- tel, where two hundred beds are made up ; and the style of living appears to me sufficiently convenient and agreeable. Besides occasional guests, you meet with a certain number of permanent boarders, some- times whole families remaining for weeks together, with whom strangers enjoy the utmost facility of forming an acquaintance ; and, as it frequently hap- pens that some of the inmates are members of Con- gress or of the State Legislatures, and that most of them are men of superior information, an opportu- nity is afforded of acquiring knowledge regarding the institutions and habits of the people, highly to be prized. Tlie Americans appeared to me perfectly accessi- ble, and quite ready to give counsel or assistance to all who were disposed frankly and cordially to ac- cost them. Before I was two days in the hotel, I ACCOMMODATION OF BUNKER's HOTEL. 17 could reckoa several very kind friends, acquired en- tirely in tlie ordinary intercourse of the day, with- out any formal introduction, and was not only fur- nished with routes for my future guidance, but re- ceived kind and pressing invitations to visit various individuals in the course of my tour. The public rooms in the hotels, consist of one or more furnished drawing-rooms, where you receive visitors, assemble before meals, or spend the even- ing with music, &c. Single gentlemen, unacquaint- ed or unconnected with any lady of the party, ap- peared to me hardly expected to join the drawing- room circle, although there is no exclusion, nor any difficulty, when one is so inclined, in finding admis- sion. The dining-room is, of course, large, commonly two apartments thrown into one, and capable of be- ing enlarged or contracted at pleasure. In Bunker's, I admired an ingenious communication with the kit- chen, by means of a stair concealed under a large sideboard, from one end of which the good-humour- ed shining phiz of a black waiter was ever and anon emerging with some savoury dish. The bar-room and open gallery or verandah are the only scenes of smoking to be met with in respectable hotels. A book is kept in the bar, where arrivals and depart- ures are regularly recorded, and which frequently enables friends to trace each other with much conve- nience. The hotels are well fitted up, the bed-rooms not very large, but clean and comfortable, and, in B 18 ACCOMMODATION OF BUNKER's HOTEL. Bunker's, we found excellent warm-batlis. Our board was 2 dollars, or 9s. per day, for which we had breakfast, dinner, tea, and supper, Avith a bed- room. Our fare was excellent. Fish and fowl, rump steaks, sausages, omelets, &c. &c. are kept in constant requisition, and ample justice is done to them, with a dispatch somewhat startling to a stranger. At this time shad reigned supreme at our breakfast, as striped bass did at our dinner- table, both uncommonly delicate varieties of fish. To those who have formed an estimate of Ameri- can hotels from certain modern tourists, I am aware that my report may wear the aspect of partiality, yet I feel a pleasure, while I consider it a duty, with per- fect indifference and candour, to state the impression made upon myself, and the results of my own expe- rience and observation. In treating of America, the man who would do lier justice must have in constant remembrance the extraordinary advances and improvements, which even a year or two in this country produce. In the hotel where I now lived, an English gentleman in- formed me, that only a few years ago, not more than two or three single bed-rooms could be found, whereas it is now entirely the reverse, and the change, in ordinary road taverns, is alike remarka- ble. We have been accustomed to hear a great deal of the saucy or sulky demeanour of the attendants. Not a solitary instance of the kind occurred in my ex- perience, and I found all my personal wants quite as regularly attended to as I could possibly desire, both ACC03IM0DATI0N OF BUNKER'S HOTEL. 19 in New York and elsewhere ; with this agreeable dis- tinction, that you are relieved of those vexatious ex- tortions which assail you, as " riders to the bill," in every British hotel. The attendants, except in the Slave states, are almost always free persons of colour, and 1 believe the repugnance felt to the designation of servant, arises from some latent ill-defined dread of being mistaken for slaves. The porter of the hotel receives a small remunera- tion, having not only to run errands, but to do some heavy work in removing the luggage, of which the superfluous portion, or what is not in immediate re- quisition, is carefully deposited in a room allotted to that purpose. That matters are conducted very differently fi*om what we are accustomed to meet with, in our own ad- mirable houses of entertainment, I readily admit; but I cannot, upon the whole, allow that the absence of snug parlours or mahogany boxes, is attended with those very fatal effects to comfort and good living, which some smart writers would have us to believe. One grievance perpetually served up is, the shock- ing inconvenience of travellers being obliged to conform to the regular hours of a public table, a truth which amounts precisely to nothing, these hours being invariably calculated to suit the motions of public conveyances, by which travelling is almost exclusively accomplished in America, and because there is no difficulty in procuring private rooms or extra meals, when circumstances really oblige you to call for them. b2 20 AMERICAN SOCIETY. Another very pretty topic of abuse is the whoh' sale ablution system carried on in the tavern bar-rooms, with tlie accompaniments of a comb and hair-brush, suspended pi'o bono publico. The climate, in sum- mer, renders wasliing- at every stage extremely comfortable, during the few minutes employed in changing horses, and a basin and towel are placed at liand for the purpose. It is only In venf humble quarters, indeed, that you cannot command these comforts in your own bed-room, Avhere you stop for the night; and, although certainly the above articles would not present themselves unless they were in use, I scarce recollect observing a single traveller without his pocket-comb. I shall make at present no further remarks upon American accommodations, intending to recur to them during the progress of my tour. New York has been so often and so well describ- ed, that it is unnecessary to speak in detail of its public buildings and institutions. It is a fine com- mercial city, with a population of nearly 200,000, carrying on an immense traffic with the whole world. The celebrated Broadway somewhat disappointed me. Its length is certainly very great, and hand- some public buildings, private mansions, hotels, and well furnished shops or stores, are curiously inttir- mixed; while its whole length and breadth are alive with carriages and waggons, equestrians and pedes- trians of every rank and of almost every hue. Still, it did not equal the expectations which I had been led to form. THORBURNS SEED-STORE. 21 I could say much, were it proper, of the hospita- lity of New York, and of the unostentatious kind- ness with which my letters of introduction were re- ceived. The style of living is elegant and comfort- able, and the domestic circles which I had the plea- sure of joining seemed truly unaflFected and happy. The quiet, modest, and amiable tone of female so- ciety particularly pleased me. I frequently visited the 5eec?-5fore of Mr Thorburn, a character of some celebrity, and of great originali- ty, being, as he informed me at our first interview, the " very identical Lawrie Tod,'' and that so far as the first volume of that entertaining work goes, Gait had exactly recorded his life and adventures. Be- sides other sources of enjoyment, Mr Thorburn is distinguished for a lively and unfailing reliance upon a special overruling Providence, not a blind fatalism, but a conviction that, in all the crosses of life, a blessing will be found by those who faithfully seek it. He detailed many singular illustrations of this doctrine in his own history, and altogether gratified me much by his acquaintance. His original profes- sion was that of a nail-maker at Dalkeith, and by that alone he looked for a livelihood in the New World. Soon after his arrival, however, this handi- craft was annihilated by the introduction of machine- ry, and poor Thorburn was driven to open a small grocery store for subsistence to Phemie and himself. It was his practice to visit the butcher-market at a late hour, that he might pick up a cheap morsel, and observing a man offering plants for sale in pots, and 22 tiiorburn's seed-stohe. seemingly like himself nither low in the world, Thor- bm'n accosted him. He proved to be a follow coun- tryman, an industrious, but rather unsuccessful, mar- ket gardener, of the name of Inglis, from Kirkcaldy ; and, i'rom a sort of commiseration, Thorburn bought a rose-geranium, intending it to ornament his shop. At this time he scarce knew a geranium from a cab- bage. Pleased with his purchase, wlien hegot home lie painted his pot a gay green, and placed it in his window. " And now," says he, when he told me his story, with his eyes twinkling, " mark the kind- ness of Providence. The day after my geranium appeared in its new pot, a lady happening to drive |)ast, remarked its beauty, and not only bought it at a handsome price, but gave me such ordei'S as ena- bled me to open a busy trade with poor Inglis. My shop soon became more celebrated for plants than for tea and tobacco; and many inquiries having been made for garden-seeds, I procured an assortment, and gradually extended my concern until I reached the possession of the handsome premises and flourish- ing trade which 1 now enjoy." Some of his details, regarding the devastation oc- casioned by the yellow fever, were extremely inte- resting, lie has a very beautiful seed-shop, aviary, and greenhouse, &c. in the centre of the city, for- merly a Quakers' meeting-house and school, where he seems to drive a thriving trade. The ladies of New York are fond of flowers, and use them much in dress. Camellias are in great request, and some- times sell so high as three dollars a-head, the ordi- thorbubn's seed-store. 23 nary price being one ; and large orders are given for every party. I learned also, from a Scotchman in Mr Thorburn's employment, whose family had suf- fered heavily from sickness last winter, that camel- lias and parties by no means engross the sole atten- tion of the ladies of New York. He assured me, that, within his own observation, it was quite won- derful what they conti'ived to do, in visiting, cloth- ing, and attending to, the poor. This man left Glas- gow in great destitution about a year ago. He is now in comfortable circumstances, and his family provided for; but the first fortnight which honest Saunders Lee spent in New York, a total stranger, without money or engagement, he described, with a shudder, like a fit of the ague, as ^^ perfectly aivfuW ( 24 ) CHAPTER III. Steam Voyage up the Hudson — The Dinner on Board — State Prison of Sing Sing — i\Iilitury College of West Point — City of Albany — Senate and House of Assembly — Superiority of the American Breed of Horses — Albany Museum — American Character for Inquisitivcness. At seven o'clock a. m., upon the 12tli of April, we embarked in the Nortli America, a splendid steam-boat, of which the Americans are justly proud, to proceed up the Hudson to Albany, a distance of 145 miles. The morning was rather cold, and a strong breeze blew down the river, wind, and tide, and stream being all against us, notwithstanding of which, the irresistible power by which we were im- pelled, landed us in Albany within fourteen hours. It is difficult for those who have never seen an Ame- rican steam-boat, to conceive its elegance and com- fort. They are handsomely fitted up, well furnished, and a capital table is kept, wliile the total absence of coal-smoke leaves every thing tidy and clean. The North America is a day-boat, that is, she performs her voyage between sunrise and sunset, a circum- stance of which travellers ought to be aware, as they deprive themselves of the enjoyment which the highly interesting scenery of the Hudson aflfords. STEAM VOYAGE UP THE HUDSON. 25 should tliey chance to go unawares by an evening boat. This fine vessel is propelled by two engines of ninety horse-power each ; the steersman, from an elevated platform in the fore-end, guides the vessel by ropes, which communicate with the rudder ; a safe and admirable contrivance, universally employed in America, enabling the person at the helm to com- mand an uninterrupted view of the ship's course, and to escape many dangers which might otherwise oc- cur. The North America has a magnificent public cabin, with suitable private accommodation for ladies. Her length is about 225 feet, and her breadth 60. There are a lower and upper deck for promenading, with an awning when the sun is powerful, and, in short, every luxury and comfort which the best ho- tel could afford, not forgetting the barber s sJwp, whei'e the master informed me he had frequently the honour of taking fifty gentlemen by the nose in one forenoon. This ancient craft, so greatly degenerated in our own country, seems to be here in its very ze- nith. Innumerable are the party-coloured poles in every town, indicating the barber's shop, and, the general practice being favourable to their calling, they are in great request. I observed, in New York, one of the sides of the shop fitted up with pigeon-holes, where stood the labelled soap-boxes of Mr A, Mr B, &c., indicating steady customers. The steam- boats and large hotels have generally a barber as part of the establishment, and I found them every where maintaining the old professional character of cleanly, civil, and obliging gossips. 26 STEABI VOYAGE UP THE HUDSON. Tlio fare to Albany is only 9s., with a very mo- derate charge for meals. Of course, it is a favourite mode of conveyance, and the company is not always remarkably select. The steward told me that he had 900 passengers to breakfast and dinner one day last summer, and that 500 or 600 are frequent. With such a multitude some confusion must unavoidably occur, however excellent the arrangements, and these appeared to me to be very complete. Upon this occasion I think we sat down about 200 at ta- ble ; many homely enough in appearance, but no- thing either rude or revolting came under my notice. I was seated at dinner between Judge S , a most intelligent man, and of much repute as a lawyer, and a plain Massachuretts farmer. We soon got enga- ged in agricidtural conversation, for the judge was well versed in these matters, and afforded much use- ful advice and information to the professional farmer and his friends. After dinner he entered into more general discussion, ruiniing over the different States, and pointing out to me what he considered their re- lative advantages and drawbacks. He thinks well of Ohio and some parts of Indiana for European set- tlers, and strongly advised me, if I thought of a pur- chase, to prefer a farm already, in some measure, improved, and to be upon my guard against design- ing persons, who are every wh(;re on the look-out for strangers. He assured me that a good under- standing with Great Britain was daily gaining ground in the States, and that the idea prevailed, that if the two nations stand by each other, they may STEAM VOYAGE UP THE HUDSON. 27 rule tlie world. This gentleman enjoys a good pri- vate fortune ; otherwise his case would be a hard one. A very extraordinary law, peculiar, I believe, to the State of New York, enacts that judges shall retire upon attaining the age of sixty, and thus not only may, but frequently must, return to the bar, not a dollar of pension being allowed them when thus compelled to resign. Mr S. was in this predicament, and the country sacrificed the talents of a very able man, just at a period of life when his legal experience as a judge became of peculiar value. It is a preposterous arrangement, and may even be imagined at variance with the purity and independence of the bench. I had a long chat with the Massacliusetts farmers, who had been at New York with a drove of fat oxen, weighing about 75 stones (14 lb. to the stone) each, and for which they had got about L.22 a-head. They were in very high spirits, as every thing was bearing a high price. Their sheep are Saxon and Merino, and they had refused 2s. 8|^d. or 73 cents per pound for their wool, while last year they considered themselves well paid with 2s. Id. or 50 cents. They raise fine crops of turnips, and rear many sheep. A ewe fetches this season 9s., while last year she brought only 4s. 6d. They pay a sheep-doctor 27s. each 100 sheep per annum for his attendance, and this man devotes himself to sheep alone, never in- terfering with any other stock. He came out to them from England. Our dinner table was supplied with a profusion of good things, well cooked, and neatly served up. 28 THE DINNER ON BOARD. The captain takes the head of the table, the ladies who have no gentlemen along with them being al- ways under his special charge ; and, however large the party, or however mixed the company, scrupu- lous deference is paid to the accommodation of the fair ; and, I am confident, the most unpolished farmer would suffer any inconvenience rather than interfere with a lady's comfort. The fare from New York to Albany, 145 miles, is, as before observed, two dollars, or 9s., and the charge for an excellent dinner 2s. 3d. or half a dol- lar, including brandy, whisky and Hollands, placed upon the table, at the discretion of the company, a latitude which, I may here observe, was never abused, upon this or any other occasion, throughout my tour. The scenery of the Hudson, between New York and Albany, is probably not to be surpassed in romantic beauty by ,'my river-scenery in the world. About forty miles above New York, the river emerges from the high lands, and, for 100 miles above that, the eye is gratified by a succession of lofty mountains, and bold rocky headlands, clothed in wood, — towns, villas, farms, &c. in perpetual succession. The river itself is a noble object, covered with innumerable sloops and steamers, sometimes making abrupt turns amongst the rocks, and again stretching out like a peaceful lake. The woods were yet bare of foliage, and the day so cold and bleak, as to freeze the spray upon the deck ; still, it was impossible for any ad- mirer of nature, to view the scenery of this day's voyage, without the deepest interest and delight. STATK PRISON OF SING SING. 29 It would be easy to enlarg-e upon many interesting- objects which present themselves between New York and Albany, but the ordinary guide-books have made these perfectly familiar. Sing Sing, a new state prison, is seen upon the east bank, a few miles above New York. Silence reigns supreme within its walls, and forms the great and eflFective engine of punishment. The prisoners labour in gangs, but not a whisper is allowed, and, at night, each returns to his solitary cell, where his only, but invaluable resource, awaits him, in the pages of Holy Writ. West Point, about fifty miles above New York, is finely situated upon a lofty eminence, and is the station of an extensive Military College, educating about 250 cadets. This place must ever be associated with painful and affecting recollections, when recog- nised as the spot where the gallant but misjudging Andre, was inveigled, by the traitor Arnold, into a guilty correspondence, forfeiting his life, and, in a certain degree, tarnishing his honour; while, at the same time, the noble heart of Washington was rent with the bitterest pangs, from the painful duty im- posed upon him. He saw and acknovv-ledged the gene- rous feelings which led poor Andre astray, and sigh- ed under the stern necessity which compelled him to deny a soldier's death to this unhappy youth, doomed, by the laws of war, to an ignominious gibbet. We reached Albany about nine, and were soon comfortably established in Cruttenden's hotel, ad- joining to the State House on Capitol Hill. 30 CITY OP ALBANY. Albany is an ancient city in American chronology. It is the c.ipital of the State of New York, and the seat of the State Government, though now g-reatly eclipsed by The City, as New York is emphatically termed. A great proportion of internal commerce centres in Albany. The Grand Erie, and the Cham- plain, or Northern Canal, both find their outlet here, and numerous very large steam-boats ply to New York. The population of Albany is about 1G,000. The tide runs nearly to Troy, about six miles above. In contemplating the commercial enterprize, the buzz of busy men, the large warehouses and stores, the variety of equipages, waggons, stage-coaches, &c. which are met on every ha?id, as a stranger proceeds through the city, it is impossible not to rcA'ert to the picture so graphically drawn by Jin amiable and venerable authoress, and to contrast its present con- dition with the early days of Albany, when " this city was a kind of semirural establishment, every house had its garden, well, and a little green behind ; before every door a tree was planted, rendered in- teresting by being coeval with some beloved mem- ber of the family ; many of tlieir trees were of pro- digious size, and extraordinary beauty, but without regularity ; every one planting the kind that best pleased him, or which he thought would afford the most agi'eeable shade to tlie open portico, at his door, which was surrounded by seats, and ascended by a few steps. It was in these, that each domestic group Avas seated in summer evenings to enjoy the balmy twilight, or the serenely clear moonliglit. Each CITY OF ALBANY. 31 family had a cow, fed in the common pasture, at the end of the town. In the evening the herd returned all tog-ether, of their own accord, with their tinkling bells hung at their necks, along the wide and grassy street, to their wonted sheltering trees, to be milked at their masters' doors. Nothing could be more pleasing to a simple and benevolent mind, than to see thus at one view, all the inhabitants of a town, which contained not one very rich, nor one very poor, very knowing or very ignorant, very rude or very polished individual; to see all these children of na- ture, enjoying, in easy indolence or social intercourse, ' The cool, the fragrant, and the dusky hour,' clothed in the plainest habits, and with minds as un- disguised and artless. These primitive beings were dispersed in porches, grouped according to similarity of years and inclinations. At one door, were young matrons ; at another the elders of the people ; at a third, the youths and maidens, gaily chatting or singing together, while the children played round the trees, or waited by the cows, for the chief ingre- dient of their frugal supper, which they generally ate, sitting on the steps in the open air*." It is a dream not unworthy of Rip Van Winkle himself. The mighty tide of time is ever rolling on, and such scenes as these must now be looked for in the newly reclaimed regions of the West, or the Canadian Forest, where many an embryo city, destined to rear its edifices, and to diffuse riches and civilization * Letters of an American Lady., (Mrs'Grant of Laggan). 32 CITY OF ALBANY. around, is at this hour comnit'nciiig' its career, with the savr-mill, the grist-mill, and the wooden wharf. The local situation of Albany is very fine, the town being placed upon the declivity of a hill, over- hanging the river, on its western bank ; and the panoramic view from the roof of the Capitol is beau- tiful and extensive, embracing the Catskill Moun- tains, nearly 4000 feet high, clothed with w'ood to the very summit, the noble Hudson, spreading out below, and a fine country on every side. I spent the day following my arrival, in a most agi'eeable renewal of friendly intercourse with an old companion, whose acquaintance I had made many years ago, w-hile he prosecuted his studies in Edin- burgh. His father, distinguished by the old Dutch title of Patroon of Albany, is still better known by his talents and virtues, which, during a long life, liave secured to him the esteem and regard of all his fellow citizens and friends. Mr R r possesses a princely domain around Albany, and I felt, in the sincere and cordial welcome of the son, that one of the purest and most heartfelt enjoyments of life, is to be found in the practical assurance of an old friendship having expe- rienced neither diminution nor coldness, from the caustic influence of distance and of time. My friend accompanied me to all that was to be seen in the city and around Albany. Our first visit was to the House of Assembly and Senate, both of which are in hand- some and convenient halls. I remained some time in the Senate, listening, with interest, to the first HOUSE OF ASSEMBLY. 83 discussion, of a public nature, which I had heard in America. The matter in hand was of mere local in- terest, being the constitution of a new bank, and the speakers appeared to treat the controverted points, in a candid business-like style. There was little room for eloquence in determining the amount of capital which a country bank should be allowed to possess, and there were no unnecessary or misplaced attempts at rhetorical display. The appearance of the members conveyed the impression of sensible country gentlemen, and I left tlie hall, well satisfied with the mode in which business seemed to be con- ducted. The constitution of the State of New York gives the right of suffrage to every male citizen of 21 years of age, who has resided six months in the State, and has paid a state or county tax within a year of the election, and also to men of colour (blacks and mu- lattoes) who have been citizens for three years, and possess a clear freehold of 250 dollars value, and have paid a tax thereon. The Governor and Lieu- tenant-governor are chosen by the people, and hold office for two years. The legislature consists of the Senate and House of Assembly. The former is composed of 32 members, freeholders, who are elect- ed for four years, one-fourth going out annually by rotation. The Assembly consists of 128 members elected annually, in their respective counties. The electors may return any freeholder eitlier to the Senate or Assembly, that may to them seem best; and each member of the Senate and House of As- c 84 SHORT-IIORNED CATTLE. sembly receives tliree tlollurs a day, during- session. The judiciary power is vested in a Court of Chancery, a Supreme Court, and District Court, with a Court of Error, composed of the Senate, the Chancellor and Judg-es of the Supreme Court ; the Judg-es, as I have already noticed, becoming disqualified at the age of sixty. After leaving the House of Assembly, we drove a few miles out of towni, and visited a very fine farm of 600 acres, which my friend occupies himself. It consists chiefly of rich arable land and meadows, on the banks of the river, and it pleased me to see that so correct and spirited an example in rural economy was there dis2)layed, by one whose influence ought to have so much weight in the district. The fences, houses, &c. were in good order, and I saw some very fine improved short-horned cattle, imported, at great expense, from England, and well calculated to bene- fit the country. Mr R r has shown a correct judgment in selecting native cows, to mix with the English blood, and has reared one bull, in particular, which I considered even superior in shape to the English sire : this animal was intended to be let out for the season. My friend, who was always remarkable for a smart team, enjoys every advantage in America for indul- ging his taste. Scarce had I set foot on shore in New York, when my eye was attracted to the figures of the horses in the hackney-coaches and drays, and every subsequent opportunity tended more and more to delight me with the breed of horses, both in the HORSES. 35 States and Canadas. IVIr R r had about twenty in his stables, part of them, of course, employed with the oxen in ftirm-work, but all of them, in point of shape, figure, and action, such as would command, in Britain, the highest price given for carriage-nags. A pair of very powerful handsome brown geldings, which we met accidentally in one of his waggons, cost him 200 dollars, or £ 45, and which horses, I am confident, in London, would have readily fetched 120 guineas. Some of his saddle-horses were un- commonly neat, and a chestnut colt, intended for his own charger, as general in the militia, was one of the finest and strongest thoroughbreds I ever saw. I may remark, too, that this stud was by no means to be regarded as the expensive hobby of a rich man, for in every part of the country the same superior animals were to be met with, and, from the team of almost any ordinary farmer, horses might be select- ed fit to grace the four-in-hand. The buildings on the farm are of wood, and very commodious; the stables, floored with plank, last for a great many years, and no doubt, in a great degree, train the horses to be steady in boats and on wooden bridges. The bailiff, a very sensible active-like man, has about £45 of money wages, a capital house, cow, and some other advantages. The crops are chiefly wheat, Indian corn, pumpkins grown among the com, oats, potatoes, and meadow-hay. After a very pleasant drive, about six miles up the river side, upon a real Macadamised road, which has been completed for that distance, we returned to c 2 36 IXQUrSITIVENESS. Albany ; and, to wliilo away an Itoiir before g'oing to my friend's to dinner, I paid a visit to tbe Albany Museum. This collection occupies a suite of rooms, in a very handsome building- of white marble, from a quarry in its neig-hbourhood, and contains a fair assortment of specimens in natural history. Here it was my lot, for the first time, to come under the full fire of Yankee curiosity, although I had been al- ready engaged in some smnll affairs of outposts. The only other visitor whom I saw in the museum was a tall thin lad, who, the moment I entered, pounced upon me, and, though with perfect civility and good- breeding according to his knowledge, opened a vol- ley, with " How d'ye do, Sir (very nasal) ; I guess you're from the old country." Quite aware that no impertinence was intended, I readily answered every question, which now poured in nearly as follows : " Mav I ask. Sir, from what part of the old coun- try ? May I ask what port you sailed from ? What ship did you sail in? What might you pay for your passage? Are you going to settle in the States ? What may your profession be ? What is your name ?" et multa alia, to the like effect. This inqusitive disposition has been a frequent theme of abuse against the Americans; and that it exists as a national trait, I think no man can honest- ly deny. 1 have met with it every where, and have endeavoured to analyze it fairly and with candour. The conclusion to which I very soon came, and to which I still adhere, acquits the Americans of the most remote intention to be at all uncivil to the INQUISITIVENESS. 37 Stranger. Tliey must be viewed nationally!, in some degree, as children; it must be remembered that they live much in retired rural circles ; that they are intelligent, well educated, and ever anxious to ac- quire information, all of which render them, when a foreigner falls into their hands, rather apt to over- step the European bounds of propriety, and many of their questions, which to us appear trifling, bear pro- bably upon points sufficiently important to them. Whatever umbrage too sensitive strangers may take at the freedom of Americans, it is but fair to notice the voluntary restraints which, in some respects, the latter impose upon themselves. An American, who will not feel that he is guilty of any impertinence in taking a peep at a book you may have in your hand, will at once recoil when you open a lettei% or are engaged in writing, although it is sufficiently evident that a mere selfish and vulgar curiosity would derive infinitely more gratification from a peep at the latter than at the former. I enjoyed, also, many a laugh, in the crowded steam-boats, at the overwhelming confusion which I occasioned, by suddenly turning round, when I knew that half-a-dozen poor fellows were straining their orbs to decypher the emblems of agriculture figuring ujjon the buttons of an old Farming Society coat, which I wore in travelling. They evidently felt, that without a little more inti- macy, the buttons were to be held sacred. In my adventure at the museum, dignily perhaps suggested the necessity of immediately turning upon my heel from such an impertinent Paid Pry ; but, what I 38 INQUISITIVENESS. tnist may be called good nature or good tact, urged the expediency of mooting the poor follow in his own spirit, and, by answering his queries, I scarce gratified him more than by extracting, in like man- ner from him, a stock of useful information regard- ing the agriculture of New England, where my friend, a shrewd, sensible sample of a Massachusetts farmer, owned a farm of 200 acres. He had come up with me the preceding day, from New York, in the North America, where he had formed one of the party who had been selling their fat stock at New York. I might have cut the matter short at once, and enjoyed the triumph of sending off Jonathan (to use a homely phrase) with a flea in his car ; but un- doubtedly I would myself have been the only suffer- er, and he would very soon have forgot the rebuff which the saucy fellow from the old country had giv- en him. Upon returning to the hotel, and mention- ing my chat with the farmer, my friend Mr C , who, from a rosidonce of forty years in Canada, un- derstands the American character better than most people, commended me for the line I had followed, and amused me with an anecdote on the subject of curiosity, which has, I believe, travelled across the Atlantic, regarding a gentleman of the name of West. This traveller, besides the common ordeal, had to encounter an extra batch of inquiries, from the spe- culation occasioned by a M'ooden log. Wearied one day with a most pertinacious host, who had extracted from him his name, his country, profession, route, &c., the traveller positively protested against another INQUISITIVENESS. 39 question being put. " Oh ! Sir," says mine host, " I would just like to ask one more." " Well, well," says Mr West, " one more I will answer, and re- member that clears all." " Certainly, sir, many thanks : Pray, how did you lose your leg T " Oh ! my leg ; why it was bit." " Bit ! is it possible f Well, what could have bit it ?" " Nay, friend, a bargain's a bargain, you know : one question and no more was our agreement ;" — thus leaving Boniface in greater perplexity than ever. ( 40 ) CHAPTER IV. Phaeton Excursion up the Banks of the Hudson to Eiiston — Join tlie Stage-coacli for ^\'hitehall — Bad roada — Vilhige of Sandy Hill—TowTi of Whitehall. Hav^ixg expressed my intention of visiting a Scotch friend, who has been some time settled upon the banks of the Hudson, about thirty miles above Albany, R r kindly insisted upon driving me there in his phaeton. At Albany I parted for a time with my good friends Mr and Mrs C , who were to proceed di- rectly home to Niagara, where it was arranged I should join them on my return from Quebec. Upon Thursday, 15th April, R r called for me at Cruttenden's Hotel, and, in company with his relation Mr S r, we rattled away with four spank- ing bays, for Easton, the morning pleasant for the season, and the road, so far as Macadam went, per- fectly unexceptionable. At Gibbonsville, about six miles from Albany, is established a public arsenal, and the location, to borrow an American phrase, seems well chosen for operations in the north or east, as the two canals open a ready communication with the frontiers. At Gibbonsville we were ferried over the Hudson to Troy in a most convenient boat, which received us without unyoking, and conveyed BANKS OF THE HUDSON. 41 US cleverly across. The boat was moved by two horses and a horizontal wheel, operating on paddles, in a simple and ingenious manner, the horses per- forming their work like turnspits, or a party taking exercise at a tread-mill. Troy is a considerable town, with a great appearance of lively trade, and some handsome public buildings, especially a new church of Gothic architecture. A few miles farther up, we re-crossed the Hudson by a covered bridge of wood, leading into tlie town of Waterford. This bridge is 1000 paces in length, with a double road- way, and cost nearly £ 16,000. There is a pontage exacted, and a penalty upon carriages exceeding a walk, when going along the bridge. Waterford is a sweet village, containing many gay white mar ions, with green Venetians, neat gardens, &c., and tiie scenery around is extremely pleasing. Tlie Hudson flows past the town, and the Mohawk falls in, a short way below, with many wooded and rocky islands in front. From Waterford our route lay nearly parallel to the river, through a well culti- vated country, with many handsome farms, the soil vai'ying in quality, and of inferior value as you re- cede from the river. A gentleman whom I had known in Scotland possesses a fine property on this road, and I resolved to surprise him with a visit. We were most heartily welcomed, and only made good our retreat by a promise, if possible, to return. He has found his purchase a very advantageous one ; the land seems of excellent quality, and he has evi- dently made great improvements in clearing, drain- 42 BANKS OF TIIH HUDSON. ing, fencing, <S:c. The Northern Canal intersects the estate. He has a comfortable mansion, with a well laid out garden, rather ingeniously formed in the hollow of an old quarry. The Pludson, with many wooded romantic islets, and enlivened by rafts, constantly shooting down some strong rajjids, with high land, well timbered, on the opposite bank, forms the landscape from his porch, where we found the old gentleman enjoying the sunshine of a delightful April day. A few miles after passing Stillwater (a small hamlet and post-office), we arrived opposite to Easton, the residence of my friend. It was now re- quisite to cross the river, which here expands to a very considerable breadth, and, from its placidity, gives name to the hamlet and district. A rather ill-defined track led us through a field, and we de- scended the bank, as I thought, Avith some hazard, to the water edge. Here no handy waterman wait- ed to give us his aid, 'but a catamaran-lihe boat, de- nominated a Scow, long enough, though of a breadth barely sufficient to receive the carriage, was at our service when cleared of the water with which she was half full. I received orders to remain in the phaeton, under the guidance of the coachman, wliile my friends soon baled out a portion of the water, and handled two long poles, by which we were to be put across. The prospect, 1 must admit, was far from satisfactory ; however, having no choice, I had only to submit, and, after a proper plunge and a rare jolt, our well trained active horses deposited us on board, and we committed ourselves to the gentle BANKS OF THE HUDSON. 43 current. In due time we reached the opposite bank, and after another scramble, got safely ashore, where my good friend was ready to welcome us. This was the first specimen I had met with of the docility which is almost universal in American horses, and is the natural result of kind treatment. From the mo- ment that these four spirited animals entered the boat until they were required to leap out, a period of half an hour, not one of them moved a hoof. My friend's property formerly belonged to a branch of the Schuyler family, and is beautifully situate on the east bank of the Hudson, consisting of rich clay land, low hills well adapted for sheep pasture, and woodland behind. The house stands not far from the river, and commands a very pleasing view. R — r and S r left us in the evening for the residence of the latter, about ten miles farther up, at Schuylersville ; and we witnessed another em- barkation in the scow, which by no means diminished my personal satisfaction at remaining a spectator from the bank. I remained several days with my friend, looking at farms in the neighbourhood, and partaking of the kind and easy hospitality which puts a man comfortably and completely at home. The valley of the Hudson is here of considerable breadth. The Northern or Champlain Canal, connecting New York with Vermont, Lower Canada, &c., passes on the west side, at the distance, in general, of about half a mile from the river. There is a large extent of rich flat land upon the eastern bank, rising into low hills and woodlands as you recede ; and, some 44 BANKS OF THE HUDSON. miles in the interior, it is intersected by a line of turnpike from Troy, &c. to the north, with a district of settled country, inferior, however, in quality to the river side. Numerous little brooks descend from the hilly ground, affording a copious supply of wa- ter for agricultural, and sometimes for mechanical, purposes. Upon one of these, running through his property, my friend has erected a brewery, which, in the hands of two enterprising Scotchmen, pro- mises to flourish. Sure I am, if superlativeli/ good ale can secure customers, the Easton brewery de- serves to succeed. Ice is applied in a particular and scientific method, which enables the brewery to work when others are in general closed from the tempera- ture of the summer. In returning one evening from dining with our neighbours at the brewery, I was re- galed and astonished for the first time with nfrog cojicert. The night was dark, and we were picking our steps by the aid of a lantern, when the chirrup at once opened on every hand from a thousand mouths. The whole valley seemed to be alive Avith one mass of squeaking voices, which continued through the night without intermission. The bull- frog occasionally sings bass, but this evening he was silent. The noise breaks strangely to a stranger's ear on the quiet hour; and I could not help associat- ing it, in some degi'ee, with the annoying recollec- tion of fever and ague, which will, less or more, con- tinue to prevail until a general system of draining shall tiiin this orchestra. Some species of frog grow here and in Canada to AJiERICAN STAGE-COACH. 45 a prodigious size. A plain honest Scotsman, Avith whom I travelled some days in Canada, amused me much with his account of them, when detailing his feats in the slaughter of wood-pigeons. " Yoic "ne- ver smv the like 6 the puddocks, sir ; I brought dmvn tJiree dotes at ae shot, and afore I cotdd toK them wp, a muckle deevil, wi a mouth as braid's my loof, gobbled up yin 6 them, roup ari stoup." Mrs R , too, as- sured nie that, from her vicinity to the meadows at the river side, she had no chance of rearing ducks, the young brood always falling a prey to the frogs. Upon Monday the 18th of April, after an early breakfast, I left Easton, and joined the stage for Whitehall, which passed on the opposite side of the river about eight o'clock. I had liit upon the very worst period of the year for travelling in America, and I was therefore led to expect rather rough work. During the winter months the sledge conveys you along with rapidity and ease ; and, in summer, the roads being dry, and having then got their repair for the season, are tolerably smooth ; but in spring mat- ters are certainly bad enough. The American stage- coach, clumsy and unwieldy as it looks, is by no means an uncomfortable vehicle, and certainly with- stands shocks, the least of which would demolish the best article ever launched from Long-Acre. It is suspended upon leather springs of great strength, and carries nine inside passengers, six of whom are seated face to face, and three upon a moveable seat in tlie centre, witli their faces forward, and backs supported by a broad strap. On account of this 46 A.MKKICAN STAGE-COACH. middle departmeiit, you enter only on one side. The panels are open, and provided with curtains to draw close when required. The higfragc is stowed away in ample reservoirs hefore and behind, and the only outside seat is a share of the coach-box to those who can maintain their post. For my own part, al- though I tried it, with a strong desire to see the country and to cliat with coachee, I found it ahsolute- ly beyond my skill, after divers attempts, to hold on. In some places it is impossible at this season to use the coach, and passengers are conveyed in long nar- row four-wheeled waggons, with seats suspended, or intended to be suspended, across; for occasionally the board is loose, and makes most incommodious slips from under you in the heavy jolts. The harness is of leather, substantial and good, the coachmen care- ful and most expert, and the horses truly excellent. But it is time to get on. \Mien my baggage was stowed, of which the heaviest portion had been most correctly brought forward from Albany, where I left it to relieve R rs horses, I seated myself on the box, and away we rumbled. Our pace was slow enough, though occasionally, when a little tolerable road presented itself, the horses exhibited satisfac- tory proofs that, in other .circumstances, no delay would arise from them. We passed through many convenient and tolerably well cultivated farms. The wheat and grass were both looking uncommonly Avell. Merino sheep were to be seen everywhere : the cattle appeared similar to our old short-horns, but they have much need of improvement ; neither AMERICAN STAGE-COACH, 47 can I commend the common breed of swine, which are too generally of the long-legged, flat-sided de- scription, reqniring, I am satisfied, as much food to raise one stone of bacon as would yield two in a more thrifty variety. From these humble speculations, however, I was roused by the enthusiasm of our coachman, who ex- claimed, upon reaching Schuylersville, " There, sir, is the surrender ground :" alluding to the fate of poor Burgoyne, who Avas compelled at this place to sur- render himself and his army of nearly 6000 men to General Gates, in the autumn of 1777. The whole route from Waterford to the frontier, including Lake Champlain, has been distinguished in American his- tory as the scene of many battles, by land and water, from the days of the unfortunate Montcalm, who, unable to control the savage ferocity of his Indian allies, was forced to witness the cold-blooded butch- ery of poor Monro and his gallant little band, after they had surrendered and received assurance of pro- tection. When listening to the details which my friend the coachman gave me with a fair portion of national exultation, I could not but reflect, with some de- gree of wonder, upon the perverse obstinacy of our statesmen, which led them, without a feeling of re- gret, to pour out British blood, and to squander Bri- tish treasure, in a cause which no thinking man would now venture to advocate or defend. It is perfectly wonderful, considering the state of the Provinces at the period of the revolution, how a 48 BAD ROADS. people SO thinly scattered, and, in every respect, so indifferently prepared for the niig'hty contest, were able to cope with, and finally withstand, the concen- trated powers of Britain. A great human instru- ment was raised up in Washington, a man whom I shall ever revere as one of the most perfect charac- ters which any age of our world has produced. No name stands higher than his in the annals of true fame ; and when we cast into the balance the amount of human happiness which his talents, his labours, and his Cliristian virtues, secured to the boundless regions of the West, there is neither hei'o nor legis- lator who can dispute his claim to be recorded as perhaps the bravest and the best of his race. Parties of labourers were, this day, every where employed, repairing the banks of the canal, which was expected to open in a few davs for the season. Often did I wish that the track-boat had been start- ed, for the roads were in many places very bad. " Dreadful roads these," I observed to the coach- man, as he steered us, to my admiration, through pools of mud, and along the edge of yawning ditches.'" " Yes, sir," says he, " but I don't mncli mind the holes, if J onhj hneiv hoto deep they were \' and truly some of them were somewhat difficult to fathom, as I frequently saw our leaders scrambling like cats, out of one clay pit, when our wheelers were descending to the croup in another. As it respects the coach and its contents, that we did get through is certain, though, it may be suppos- ed, not vviiiiout some pitching and jolts. The wary, SANDY HILL. 49 yet resolute manner, in which the coachman drove, and the uncommon action, strength, and docility of the horses, could not have been surpassed. One compact, gay, little fellow, not above 15 hands high, had been ten years on the line, and seemed yet as fresh and lively as a colt. As we approached Sandy Hill, formerly Fort Ed- ward, the country became extremely pretty. We had a fine wooded range of high ground, called Weilland's Mountain, closing the landscape to the east, and the Hudson on our left, descending a shoot of 75 feet at Baker's Falls. There was also a large dam, about 900 feet in length, a short way farther up. The soil was sometimes clay, sometimes *««</, and I observed clay-slate, limestone, and black marble, as we drove along. Sandy Hill is a village of great beauty, with some excellent new buildings, public and private, in the course of being erected. The commanding prospect, and fine air it enjoys, nnist recommend it as a residence. It was my intention at this place to have left the stage, and to have visited Lake George, returning here next day, in time to catch the coach from Al- bany. I found, however, that the summer arrange- ments were not yet made ; that the road was in a very bad state, and the landlord, whose kind and anxious exertions to accommodate me I shall not soon forget, advised me, upon the whole, to relin- quish my plan, and proceed after dinner to White- hall. Fortunately, I took his advice, as next morn- ing was so rainy and hazy, that I would have failed D 50 SANDY HILL. in my object, and the coach-liour being- later than to- day, 1 must hav'e had a night-ride from Sandy Hill to Whitehall, through a road which appeared to me sufficiently hazardous even in day-light. After an excellent and comfortable dinner, for which we paid only one-fourth of a dollar, cider, brandy, and Hollands included, we resumed our journey ; our luggage, in the mean time, having been removed, and stowed in an open waggon, as the road from this to Whitehall was not yet in a condition to receive the coach. I had formed, by this time, a very agreeable acquaintance with Mr S , a fellow-passenger, bound, as I was myself, for Montreal, and we got seated alongside of each other in the waggon, with the shaggy skin of a buf- falo for our cushion. Immediately after leaving Sandy Hill, a venera- ble tree was pointed out as the spot where the un- fortunate Miss Macrae fell by the rifle of her Indian guide, in a struggle with another party of Indians, who wished to obtain the reward of safe conduct promised by Captain Jones of Burgoyne's anny, to whom she was betrothed. It is a melancholy tale, and, to this day, forms a subject of deep interest in this part of the country. The soil around Sandy Hill is of a fine grazing quality, and the land sells from five to eight dollars per acre. A great portion of last winter was unusually mild in this district. A farmer told me, that, upon a cer- tain day of January, when the Hudson below Al- DREADFUL STATE OF THE ROADS. 51 bany was covered with sledges, he was unable, upon the same river, to find a passage upon the ice, 50 miles farther to tlie north. As we advanced, we became perfectly satisfied of the expediency of changing our vehicle. In many places it was with the greatest efforts that our four horses could extri- cate the waggon. The clay was particularly tena- cious and heavy, the wheels clogged, and, from time to time, our coachman had to dismount, drag a stake from the fence, and clear out the mud, as not a spoke could be seen, each wheel being one solid mass. It will be readily conjectured that our pro- gress was slow. The road went along the margin of Wood Creek, a rapid and considerable river, flowing northward into Lake Champlain. At swue points it had quite overflowed the road, and we floundered into pools and currents. About seven we stopped at a tavern, five miles from Whitehall, to give the horses water (a refi'eshment, by the by, much more frequently, though moderately adminis- tered, than is usual among our coachmen), where I inquired of the landlord how long these five miles might require. " Three hours. Sir," was the reply, in which I certainly considered him to be making merry with our distress. A tedious plunging drag, however, satisfied me that no joke was intended. The evening fortunately was fine, with clear moon- light, and, as every thing has an end, we at last found ourselves jolting over a little bit oi corduroy (a mode of crossing a morass, by laying round logs transversely), and which ushered us, wearied enough,. d2 52 TOWN OF WHITEHALL. into the town of Whitehall, and to most comfoi-table quarters, in Johnston's, at the Phrenix Hotel. For the last two hours the aurora borealis had been flashing in great beauty, and a rainy morning was anticipated by some of the party, as conmionly following that appearance in the sky. Whitehall is a small town at the head or west end of Lake Champlain. A good deal of business is done here, especially in the lumber-trade, and the Northern Canal, connecting Champlain and Albany, commences at this point. The scenery aroimd is liighly romantic, varied with the winding of the lake, with precipitous hills and forest scenery on every side. It reminded me strongly of our own Loch Katerine, though, it must be admitted, upon a more extensive scale. When I came down, next morning, I found a party in the bar-room, just arrived, after a night- journey through the road we had travelled. They had escaped without any accident; but considered themselves providentially preserved from having been turned over into the river. Whitehall is said to suffer from the exhalations of some marshy shallow portions of the lake below the town. One old gentleman, who had been of the night-party, called for a glass of brandy and water, into which he shook a little white powder from a phial, remarking, at the same time, " I always take a little quinine when I chance to stop at Whitehall." ( 53 ) CHAPTER V. Lake Champlain — Embark in a Steamer for Canada — Ticon- deroga — Plattsburgh — St John's — Waggon-travelling to La Prairie — Execrable State of the Roads — Steam-boat from La Prairie to Montreal. The morning, as had been predicted, was rainy ; it cleared, however, after breakfast, and broke up to a fine day about twelve, when the steam-boat arriv- ed from St John's. At one o'clock we were informed the boat was ready, having replenished her deck with billets, and her larder with good things ; and having settled a very moderate bill, amounting only to a dollar for two ample meals, and a comfortable bed -room to each of the party, we got on board of the Franklin, a beautiful and commodious vessel, commanded by Captain Sherman, who seemed anxious to do all in his power to make us comfortable. The fare to St John's in Canada, a distance of 150 miles, is five dollars, or 22s. 6d., besides meals, which are very moderate. I was agreeably surprised with the scenery, hav- ing been told that Lake Champlain had nothing to b.oast of in that respect. We had a succession of wooded hills, bold promontories, fine farms, pictn- Oi LAKE CIIAMPLAIN. resque cottages, log-huts, &c. and, the .afternoon being delightful, I had the greatest pleasure in per- ambulating the deck. An opportunity was, as usual, afforded of forming acquaintances, and obtaining much local information from fellow-passengers, by which I did not fail to profit. One gentleman, who at parting gave me his card, and a most urgent invitation to visit him, was particularly well-informed and communicative ; he proved to be priest of the parish of Chanibly, in Lower Canada, and I re- gretted very much that it was not in my power to avail myself of his politeness. Another passenger, an American, who left us at Ticonderoga, pressed me to accept a letter of introduction to a brother at Philadelphia, where he would promise me, he said, any attention in his power. I mention these matters, because I met with many instances of similar kindness, and felt, that, M'here strangers had been less fortunate, the fault must have too frequently lain with themselves. We passed a range of well cultivated verdant farms, on the western bank, in Putnam TowTiship, New York, called the Scots Settlement, containing, I was told, about 1000 inhabitants, and pursuing dairy husbandry to good purpose. Soon afterwards we approached the ruined fortress of Ticonderoga, finely placed upon a beautiful peninsula, with Mount Defiance, 800 feet high, looking down upon it- From the summit of this mountain, in 1777, an unlooked-for salutation of artillery at sunrise, upon the 4th of July, that day since so famous in the an- LAKE CIIABJPLAIN. 55 nals of America, compelled General St Clair to aban- don the fort, hitherto regarded as sufficiently strong to check the British under Burgoyne, but now to- tally untenable, from the successful attempt to bristle with cannon the summit of Mount Defiance. We observed a good many trading schooners, and a ferry at this place across the lake. An extremely picturesque church formed a fine object in the land- scape, and the two lofty mountains, bearing the names of Defiance and Independence, are features alike conspicuous and striking. Lake George unites its pellucid water with the more turbid waters of Champlain, near Ticonderoga, and the gorge of the mountains from which it issues, gives an assurance of scenery well deserving a visit. Essex, which we passed this evening, is a town prettily situate, and apparently in a thriving condition. Upon Wednesday morning, the 20tli of April, af- ter a most comfortable night, I came early on deck, sufficiently so, indeed, to witness a beautiful sunrise. The lake was perfectly still, and every tree was re- flected, as on burnished copper ; for it assumed that hue. We had stopped for a short time during the night at Burlington, a considerable town in Ver- mont. This State is famous for rearing live-stock, and a large proportion of the horses required in New York is drawn from hence. It bears a very suitable appellation, as we had been all the evening admiring the verdant and lofty range of mountains which occupy the greatest portion of its surface. I should mention, too, that we passed the foi*t at 56 PLATTSBURGH. Roscoe's Point, built by the Americans to command the navigation of the lake, and which formed a por- tion of the disputed territorial line, ultimately sub- mitted to the decision of the King of Holland. The final award of his Majesty formed at this time a very common subject of dispute. It was a matter which afforded ample room for discussion ; and the oidy sound inferences which I felt myself warranted to draw, amounted to a shrewd suspicion that Jonathan had employed rather more active or able surveyors than those who were in the service of Britain, and that the Americans are, in fact, vastly well satisfied, although they deem it necessary to grumble as much as we do at the result. After all, perhaps it is not easy to say more in favour of the Royal Arbiter, than to state the fact, that he has failed in pleasing either party. Plattsburgh is a town of some importance, at the mouth of Saranac River. An action was fought here in 1814, both on the lake and on land, in which the British were defeated, Sir George Prevost being obliged to retreat, and the flotilla being captured and destroyed by Commodore IMacdonough. A fine farm of 200 acres, on the banks of the lake, was pre- sented to him, as a public acknowledgment of his services. At Isle au Noix we again entered the British ter- ritory, and saw the British flag displayed from the Avails of a very humble fort. As we passed, a small log canoe put off for the letter-bag, one or two offi- cers anxiously awaiting its return, with faces suffi- ST John's. 57 ciently expressive of the ennui, which must attend a residence upon this low, marshy, and uninteresting station. The Franklin terminated her voyage at the small town of St John's, upon the river Sorel. It is a place of little importance, except that it is a frontier town, with a custom-house and a collector, who is said to have a very snug berth. Some fine mountains are in sight, especially one of a conical form, called Sir John Johnston's, rising abruptly from the plain, and covered with wood to the sum- mit. A fine bridge of wood, across the Sorel, lead- ing into Vermont by a public road, is another object Avorthy of notice. The rapids, in the river, appear- ed also romantic to a stranger, who had not yet seen the St Lawrence. Our first inquiry at the stage-house regarded the condition of the road to La Prairie, which was speedily ascertained to be sad enough. No coach could attempt it ; but two waggons were appointed to convey us and the mail-bags, so soon as the im- portant affair of breakfast was dispatched. In due time our equipages appeared, and a gentleman, his wife, and little boy, Mr S. and myself, led the way in one machine, when the mail and two or three pas- sengers followed close in the other. The day was fine, and our horses all we could desire ; the coach- men seemed both smart, civil, active fellows : and further, it would not have been easy to muster food for travelling consolation ; for, although we con- trived to splutter off in a kind of hand gallop, we had very soon to pull up ; and Mr S. happening to !">[] WAGGON-TRAVELLING TO LA PRAiniE. ask tlie distance to Moiitreal, we received for an- swer, " Nine miles by water ^ sir, and the rest bi/mud;" — a description which our woful experience proved to be too correct. The fare was one dollar and a half, which, in Canada currency, is 7s. 6d. ; a very high charg-e, in this country, for eighteen miles. About a mile l)olow St John's, we turned off from the banks of the Sorel (whicli, by the way, bears al- so the names of Richelieu and St John's), and pro- ceeded across a flat and very uninteresting country, for La Prairie. We were now among the Hahitans of Lower Ca- nada. The population is almost entirely French : a careful, contented race, and who ought to be su- premely happy, if " ignorance is bliss." The reli- gion is Roman Catholic, and a creditable attention is paid, at least, to the places of worship, the churches being both numerous and well built. The farms are extremely inconvenient, presenting a narrow front, with a depth sometimes two or three miles in extent. The houses, stock, and system of farming, seem very inditferent. The swine, in particular, seemed to be living examples of every bad point which it was pos- sible to bring together. Bees, a symptom of indus- trious economy, were abundant, however, upon every farm. Occasionally we passed a house, compara- tively of a superior description, in front of wiiich a long spar, resembling a Maypole, indicated the occu- pier to hold a conmiissiou in the militia of the pro- vince. The soil is clay, and, in this part of the country, not apparently of the most fertile descrip- tion. EXECRABLE STATE OF THE ROADS. 59 Lime, I believe, is almost unknown, in its agricul- tural application. The system of cropping- pursued is sufficiently simple — corn-crop after corn-crop, un- til the land refuses any return, and then abandoning it to nature, to recover some portion of fertility, up- on which the farmer may again commence his scourg- ing rotation. We passed a party of road-makers at work, upon the early part of our stage ; they are in govern- ment-employ, and L. 3000 had been allotted for the eighteen miles, a sum which might probably have done some good upon the ninth part of the way. It may be in contemplation to proceed with a like sum in future years ; but, from what I saw, there is too much reason to fear, that, by such piece-meal work, the whole money will be lost, so far as the object was to obtain a good road. What is done this year will be nearly impassable before a second portion is completed, and little or no benefit will accrue, ex- cept to the contractor and his men. When we had been dragged through some half- dozen miles of mud, and matters seemed rather to get worse than better, the coachman entrusted with the mail proposed to our driver, that they should leave the improved road, and try the old line. To this it was objected, that the old line was now closed by authority, and that notice had been served upon them of its being shut, and that part of it was ac- tually an enclosed field. The proposal, however, after a little more scrambling, was acceded to. We turned down a sort of by-track, and I had very soon 60 EXECRABLE STATE OF THE ROADS. a specimen, wliicli, under evidence sliort of my own senses, would have been hard to credit, of what men and liorses, in this country, will get through. A rough and swampy rivulet lay between us and the gate of the field, which had been shut by authority, and where Ave now saw two stout fellows drawn up, armed with large stakes, to prevent our ingress. The impediment of the brook detained us not a mo- ment ; down we went, plunging to the axles through the water, and up the steep and rushy banks to the gate, where we were brought to a parley. Many high words passed with the farmer, and, as lie had both law and equity on his side, I was prepared for another rough job through the brook, when the guardian of the post-bags, in a most resolute tone, swore he would take the responsibility of shooting any man who stopped the mail, as the other road, from late rains, was absolutely impassable ; and, suiting his action to his word, began to produce his pistol. This formidable hint, to our great amuse- ment, took immediate effect; and the gate being throvra open, we entered in triumph. Our M^aggon still kept the van, and, crossing the ploughed field, we sooji observed a new wattled fence, four feet in height, which explained (as I imagined) the roguish permission given to pass forward, and Avliich we had attributed to the bloody threats of the coachman. Here, however, I again failed in my conjecture. We kept at a steady trot, and, as we approached the fence, and my curiosity was excited to the highest pitch, at a crack of the whip, and " Come, Harry, hoy,'^ WAGGON-TRAVELLING. 61 addressed to one of the leaders, the horses absolute- ly cleared the fence in true Meltonian styley and we at their tail, waggon and all, pitching like a boat in a heavy sea, and clinging to whatever we could lay hold of, to escape rolling over board. It was an ex- traordinary performance, and, although the first act threatened something like tragedy, the whole con- cluded in the most facetious manner. The coachmen were delighted with carrying their point, and the praises we lavished npon them and their horses ; while the farmer was brought into perfect good hu- mour by some kind words, and a little assistance to repair the fence. Nothing further occurred on the remainder of our stage, which, although only eighteen miles, had re- quired six long hours to get through. Wlien we reached La Prairie, anticipating an easy and speedy conclusion to our travels for the day, nothing remaining for us to accomplish, except the 7iine miles by water, we found our progress ar- rested from the non-arrival of the steam-boat, owing to a violent gale, which had sprung up, and which equally put a veto on our proposal to take a bateau. The St Lawrence is here of great width, but the banks are tame and flat. The city of Montreal, however, with the fine feature in the landscape, from which the island derives its name, both gratified, and, for the present, tantalized us. La Prairie being a place where no travellers stop, who can get across to Montreal, we had little reason to expect sumptuous accommodation. The family were, how- 62 STEAM-BOAT PROM LA PRAIRIE TO MONTREAL. ever, remarkably civil, and made us really very comfortable ; while the bill, which frequently bears no relation, in such cases, to the quality of the enter- tainment, was sufficiently moderate, the whole charge for Slipper and bed-room only amounting- to half-a- crown. Next morning I was awakened early by the low- ing of cattle under my window. They were for the supply of Montreal, and had come from Vermont. They were in very fair condition, seemingly about 33 stones Dutch, and were expected to fetch about L. 10 or L. ] 1 each. No duty is exacted upon them. The breed resembled coarse Teeswater, but ratlier longer in the horn. The storm of the preced- ing evening occasioned a large congregation of far- mers, cattle-dealers, and others, to assemble in the hostelry of La Prairie. They were at times some- what noisy, but in no degree inebriated or annoying. I was informed that a good many farmers from England, with considerable capital, had, within these few years, purchased land in this vicinity, but, in the opinion of my informant, (who, be it noted, however, was from he-north the Tweed), had not conducted their matters in the most economical or successful way. We found a crowded deck when we reached the steam-boat, a feat which we accomplished along a most ricketty wooden wharf, at no small hazard of n dip in the St Lawrence. We left Prairie at seven, the morning very cold ; and shoals of ice were to be seen stranded upon the opposite bank. Amongst other passengers, we had the stage proprietor, ou LA PRAIRIE. 63 the line from St John's, which he has managed for many years. I recounted to him our adventure the preceding day, commending the skill of his men, and the activity of his horses. No coachmen, he told me, can manage that stage, unless they have " grou-ti up upon it ;" he had tried them from the best lines of road in the States ; but they can't get on between St John's and Prairie, it requiring a rare union of caution and courage. His horses cost him from 100 to 120 dollars, or from £ 20 to £ 30 each. He en- ters them at five years old, and, by gentle treatment, they speedily become tractable and handy, ready even, as we had witnessed, " (o charge an ox-fence " when required. ( 64 ) CHAPTKR VI. City of Montreal — Ice in the River St La^Tence— Markets— r Mr S/s Notes re^ariling the Indians of the Western Coun- try — Excursion by Steam to Quebec — Short Account of the City — Plains of Abraham — Return to Montreal. About eight, we reached the wharf of Montreal, and were landed, with some inconvenience, upon shoals of ice, fully twelve feet in height. The city looks very handsome, as it is approached from Prairie ; and the glistening tin-roofs of houses, nun- neries, and churches, give it an appearance of splen- dour, rarely equalled, while the mountain, with its woods and rocks, its orchards and villas, forms a beautiful and romantic back-ground to the picture. Porters, from the different hotels, are always in waiting, when the steam-boat arrives, to one of whom we committed our luggage, and were conduct- ed to Goodenough's, a well-frequented and most respectable Jiouse. The arrangements, in our hotel, were much the same as in New York ; a public table, bar-room, sitting parlours, verandah, &c. The party whom I found were generally mercantile men, many of them from the States, and many of them from the Upper Province. CITY OF MONTREAL. 65 Tlie business of the season was just commencing, and vessels had arrived at Quebec from Britain, a circumstance, at so early a date (April 20.), unpre- cedented, in the recollection of the oldest merchants of Montreal. The steam-boat to Quebec had started, for the first time, a few days ago, and I had reason to be thankful that I had not been forward in time for that trip. The river was still full of ice, and the poor Waterloo getting beset, she stove and sunk. The situation of the passengers was painful and ha- zardous in the extreme. They were all in bed when the alarm was given, and had to rush up in- stantly, as the cabin filled in a few minutes. So sudden was the event, that the engineer could not even stop the engine, and she went down, with it going in full force. A passenger told me that when he got on deck, the captain and rest of the party had scrambled upon the ice, and the vessel not ap- pearing to settle down very rapidly, he ventured again below for his portmanteau, which he succeed- ed in securing ; but had scarce set foot upon the ice, when she disappeared. They had now a dismal and perilous adventure before them, to reach the shore, a circuitous distance of nearly two miles, by scram- bling from one floating mass of ice to another, in a bitterly cold night, and with no fmther clothing than they chanced to have on in bed. No lives were lost, but considerable property was sacrificed, and severe colds caught by many of the party. JNIontreal is the chief trading port of the St Law^ 66 CITY OF MONTREAL. rence,an(l although vessels have hitherto been obliged to clear at Quebec, it is understood that a Custom- House will, ere long, be granted to the nierchants of Montreal. No situation, 300 miles from the sea, can be better adapted for commerce : it must always be the outlet for the largest portion (tf Upper Canada produce, and the most suitable depot for supplying the varied and increasing wants of that fine province. The streets are sufficiently regular and airy, and many of the public buildings are handsome, particu- larly the Court-IJouso and Jail, and the Roman Ca- tholic Cathedral, lately erected at an expense of L. 100,000. The material employed is a fine dark grey limestone, susceptible of a good polish, and the brilliancy of the tin roofs has long been a chanicte- ristic feature of Montreal. Tiie shops and houses are generally provided with iron shutters, as a secu- rity, I believe, against fire. It appeared rather ex- traordinary that so little had been done in provid- ing, accommodation for the vessels. I found, however, that this was in course of being supplied, and the facilities of the noble river, didy appreciated, by providing suitable quays. Where I am a stranger, I always make a point of visiting the markets. Those of Montreal seem to be well supplied. The beef was capital, voal and pork excellent, mutton at this season, scarce and poor. The price ran from 3d. to 6d. currency per lb. The butchers were remarkably civil ; the firmest and the best pork, they told me, was fed in the States, and CITY OF MONTREAL. 67 fattened principally upon maize. In sauntering about, I stumbled upon a large hall, near the river, appropriated to the fish-market. The supply seem- ed most abundant, consisting chiefly of bass, pike, pickerel, eels, &c. : Billingsgate (I may add) seem- ed to be here greatly shorn of its rhetorical flowers. There is of course, a very mixed population. Na- tive Canadians in their grey surtouts, Indians wrapt up in their blankets, English, Irish, and Scotch, are seen bustling along, with priests, and bands of pretty little female choristers, arrayed in white, flitting from church to convent, and, for the^r^^ time since I had landed in the New World, not a few beggars soliciting alms. Tlie poor are liberally cared for at the religious houses, and it was impossible to avoid connecting this appearance of regular mendicity with those lazy habits which are sure to be engendered by gratuitous supplies. The barracks and military parade-ground, seem commodious, but are not conti- g'uous, and the romantic river of St Helen's, opposite the lower end of the town, forms an agreeable sta- tion for the artillery department. I experienced much kindness and hospitality in Montreal. Mr G., amidst all the mercantile hurry of the season, de- voted some hours to a very agreeable ride around the neighbourhood, mounting me upon one of the most active, pleasant horses I ever rode : He was bred in Upper Canada, and would have carried twelve or thirteen stone with any hound. The merchants of Montreal, amidst the frosts of Canada, still retain a love for the chace. A small pack of e2 68 CITY OF MONTREAL. fox-hounds is kept up by subscription, and sometimes affords them excellent sport. A friend of mine startled me a little, by stating, that he occasionally took the same horse ninety miles to cover, and after a day's hunting brought him home a like distance. " Unless you hunt by steam," I exclaimed, " it is impossible." " Why," says he, '* that's the whole secret ; I go with my horse on board the steamer at Quebec, and reach Trois Rivieres in good time to breakfast, hunt with my father-in-law, who keeps a pack, and return to Quebec by the afternoon boat." The views from the mountain are extensive and beautiful, and several pleasant villas adorn its sides. We passed through a large farm, belonging to, and occupied by, the priests, who possess a large seig- nory. The soil seems of good qnality, but the agri- culture is slovenly. Orchards are every where to be seen ; and a country rich and fertile on every hand. The population of Montreal and the suburbs, exceeds, it is believed, 20,000 souls. I dined with Mr G. after our ride, with a very pleasant party of mercantile gentlemen. Our Ministers, I found, were in no great favour, from the recent attempt to alt^r the timber-duties, although, from the best authority I could meet with, I must infer that the timber trade is not a prosperous one. The statements made in Parliament regarding the amount of capital vested in that branch, were sufficiently absurd ; yet there can be no doubt that it is very considerable, and that any abrupt alteration to be followed by a CITY OF MONTREAL. 69 Stagnation in the export of timber, would create the most serious distress both to the merchants and co- lonists. Much was said of the rapid advances which the Upper Province is making, and of the rising va- lue of property there. I was told of a case which occurred about thirty years ago, where a lieutenant in the array, being L. 50 in arrear to a Montreal merchant, insisted, along with his promissory note, on handing over a lot of land assigned to him some- where in the then Western Wilderness, a security which the poor merchant regarded as much upon a par with the subaltern's note, who was just about to leave Canada with his regiment. The allotment consisted of 1250 acres, upon the Lake Ontario, of which seven hundred were sold last year for Seven hundred pounds, and ^t-e hundred and fifty acres of the best quality reserved. Such are the changes which time effects, without the aid of any other agent, and such cases, I was assured, are by no means rare. It having been ascertained that the river was now tolerably clear of ice, the steam-boat was fixed to stai-t for Quebec upon the 23d of April. I was here to part with Mr S., the American gentleman Avith Avhom I had travelled from the banks of tlie Hudson, and I did so with sincere reluctance. His mild and amiable manners, with the rich store of information he possessed, regarding the Western Country, had been a source of daily enjoyment and information to me, and I felt strongly the regret, to which travel- 70 NOTES REGARDING THE INDIANS lers luust so often submit, of sliaking a frioiullj' hand with little prospect of ever meetings ag; in. Mr S. is one of the two resident agents for the great fur company at Michillimackinac, and had spent most part of last winter in Washington, where he had been no idle observer of public affairs. He seems of opinion, that too many lawyers have got into Congress, and that much valuable public time is consumed in making speeches, oftener perhaps in- tended to gratify their constituents, than to serve the public interest. Mr S. considers General J.vck- son likely to be re-elected, but that a law will soon follow, to incapacitate the same individual from twice filling the President's chair, while it will probably extend the period of holding oflBce, from four to six or seven years, which last would seem to be founded on sound policy, as no man can carry into effect a political system in the present short period oifour years. Mr S. has necessarily enjoyed many opportunities of studying the Indian character, and many of his anecdotes were extremely interesting. They are, upon the whole, a harmless race, unless when roused by passion or by ardent spirits, and they display noble instances of bravery and self-denial. It is easy to secure their confidence and friendship, and settlers seldom suffer from them any annoyance. There is an unhappy rivalry between the States and Great Britain to secure their friendship, and certain tribes are now looked upon as attached to each na- tion. A large distribution of presents annually take OP THE WESTERN COUNTRY. 71 place. Those of the States consist principally of pro- visions and absolute necessaries, while Bi'itain gives guns, powder, flint, knives, &c., articles which, al- though not of equal benefit, are greatly more prized, aii they can readily be bartered to the traders for whisky and rum. Most amusing scenes of cunning and deception take place on these occasions, the In- dian allies of the two nations manoeuvring with infinite adroitness, to participate in the bounty of each. Mr S. gave me an account of an interesting canoe- voyage through the Indian country by Fox River, ft'om Michigan to St Louis on the Mississippi, a dis- tance of about 1000 miles : it occupied him about twenty days, and during that period he saw much of the Indians. One chief, who visited his tent in hopes of obtaining salt and whisky, displayed infinite ad- dress in his endeavours to ascertain whether Mr S. belonged to the States or to Canada, that he might square his demeanour accordingly. The scenery was frequently magnificent ; and game of all kinds, bear, deer, geese, ducks, &c., was in profuse abundance ; the birds were actually so fat with feeding upon the wild rice, it being then the month of September, when it becomes ripe, that they frequently burst on falling to the surface. The rapidity with which the great rivers are de- scended, produces a change of climate approaching to enchantment. A gentleman, who had been frozen up in the western country when engaged in the fur trade, weary of inaction, caused his canoe to be cut 72 EXCURSION TO QUEBEC. out of the ice, ami getting into the Mississipjji, within eight days from leaving his winter quarters, was pull- ing ripe cherries. I left Montreal upon Saturday morning, the 23d of April, in the steam-boat John Molson, named af- ter its respectable owner, who was himself on board. The ice upon the quay had been converted into mud, and I was thankful to embrace the vociferous offer of a habitan to convey me in his little cart to the vessel, a distance of about a dozen yards, through which I must otherwise have waded knee-deep. We left Montreal at nine ; the day was fine for the sea- son, and the voyage proceeded prosperously and agreeably. The scenery of the river is, upon the whole, rather tame, and, except in some places, too expanded to be picturesque, until we approach Que- bec, where the boldness of the banks counteracts in the landscape the effect of the width of the river. Neat churches and neat spires are frequent on both banks. Sorel is the first stopping-place, about forty- five miles below Montreal. The river Sorel or Richelieu here falls into the St Lawrence. There is a small town, fort, and government house, but no- thing worthy of particular remark. Our cabin par- ty was a very pleasant one, and, as we discovered most opportunely after dinner, that it was St George's day, wo behoved to evince our loyalty by some extra drafts upon the steward. In the even- ing we stopped to take in wood at Trois Rivieres, a small town, about half-way, being ninety-six miles from Montreal and eighty-four from Quebec. The EXCURSION TO QUEBEC. 73 John Molson was a delightful boat, almost entirely free from that noise and tremour which are so com- monly felt on board of steamers. The motion migh+ in fact be compared to that of the Manchester rail- way. Our rate was twelve miles an hour, with two barges in tow, having 13,000 bushels of wheat as their cargo. I was much pleased upon all occasions with the regular and expeditious manner in which the necessary supplies of wood were conveyed on board and piled in the places allotted to them. The consumption is of course considerable, and in some places the article has already become comparatively scarce. The pine is used between Montreal and Quebec, and an ordinary steam-boat consumes fifty or sixty cords, or about 7000 cubic feet each trip. Wood is furnished upon the St Lawrence for one dollar, or five shillings per cord, which is about one halfpenny per foot, while upon the Hudson it now costs three times as much. Upon the lakes where hickory, beech, maple, and other hard woods are in use, one cord is found to equal three of the pine. The evening was delightful, and the moon rose in great beauty, shedding a soft and silvery light upon the river, and, as we had some very tolerable musi- cians on board, the time passed swiftly, and it was late before I prevailed upon myself to turn into my berth. The sleeping accommodations were well ar- ranged in the main cabin ; they were clean and com- fortable, and a curtain with a sliding-rod, very in- geniously contrived, formed a snug little apartment for each two beds. On the following morning, when 74 CITY OF QUEBEC. I began to look out, the scene in the cabin was rathef amusing. Amei'icans and Canadians are early risers, and by seven o'clock a general shaving and shifting was going forward in great force. By-and-by we were promenading on deck, and the cabin windows being thrown open, matters wei'e speedily set to rights, and the stewards busily engaged in very pro- mising preparations for breakfast. We had by this time approached the Rapids of Richelieu, which are reckoned a somewhat dangerous part of the river, and a thick fog coming on, we dropped anchor. As the day advanced the sun broke forth, and we re- sumed our progress, which, in a few hours, brought us in view of the bold promontory, upon which is placed the Gibraltar of the North. Quebec is certainly a very striking object. " Quel hcc" exclaimed the French mariner, on first behold- ing it, and hence, with a little corruption, we derive its modern name. The scenery down the river, the eye resting upon the Isle of Orleans, and the land- scape enlivened as we now beheld it, with numerous large vessels under crowded canvass, formed alto- gether a splendid picture. Shall I confe>s that in passing " Wolfe's Cove," the achievement of oui- hero lost somewhat of the romantic hue with which early fancy had been wont to paint it? The ascent did not exactly appear so formidable as I had expected. When I visited the spot, however, and examined it more closely, I was better enabled to appreciate the difficulties to be surmounted in mastering such a ravine with troops and cannon during the night. I CITY OF QUEBEC. 75 feel persuaded that my first impression and slight disappointment may be traced to the wide expanse of the river, and the magnificent scale of the scenery around. Upon reaching the quay we found still many for- midable relics of winter. The ice upon which we stepped ashore was fully ten feet thick, and huge masses of it lay scattered along the beach. What- ever inducements Quebec may hold out to the stran- ger, comfortable hotels are assuredly not of the num- ber. Mr J., of the house of Gates and Company at Montreal, upon whom I had a credit, was a fellow- passenger, as also Mr H. of the Upper Province, with both of whom having formed an intimacy, I accompanied them to a boarding-house in the upper town. Our accommodations fell considerably short of what might have been reasonably expected, but our host and his lady were civil and attentive. The hotels of Montreal greatly surpass in comfort those of Quebec, from the very sufficient reason of having a great deal more to do. The large annual assem- blage of company at Saratago and Balston Springs, near Albany, has established a sort of fashionable tour by Lake Champlain to Montreal, and thence to Niagara, returning to Albany by the grand Erie canal. Along the whole of this route every exertion has been made for the accommodation of the public, and many of the hotels are extensive and particularly well kept. Quebec is divided into two towns, called, from re- lative position, the Upper and Lower. The latter 70 CITY OF QUEBEC. occupies a very limited stripe along' the river, at the foot of the lofty limestone cliff, on Avhich is placed the upper town, croMMied by Fort Diamond, so named from crystals interspersed in the rock, and rising about 350 feet above the level of the river. The poptilation is about 20,000. In the lower town are the custom-house, numerous large stores, &c., M'ith all the filth and confudon of a sea-port town, con- fined to a narrow space. The ascent to the upper portion is uncommonly steep, and it is at once singu- lar and somewhat startling, in the busy hours, to encounter a hahitan with his bonnet rouge erect in his cart, and rattling his little horse at a full trot down this rapid descent, without a thought of hazard to himself or to the unwary passenger. IVIany a poor cur, too, may be seen toiling in harness, and dragging a vehicle heavily enough laden up this weary hill. After passing a fortified gate, streets diverge in various directions, by one of which we entered a large and spacious square, of which one side is chiefly occupied by the chateau in which the governor re- sides. The streets in this part of the town are suffi- ciently Avide, and the houses large and respectable ; still the stranger is impressed with a sombre feeling, but very partially relieved by the military costume and the imposing air of a garrison. The society of Quebec is highly respectable : within its circle I found an old and valued friend, whose family made my short stay in all respects pleasant. The state of the roads and ice upon the river St Charles rendering it inconvenient to visit the Fall of PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 77 Montmorenci, more ample leisure was afforded for examining Fort Diamond, and sauntering over the Plains of Abraham. Government has expended large sums upon the fortifications of Quebec, and which, possessed as they are of the combined advantages of nature and art, must set at defiance, I should think, the utmost efforts of bravery or skill. Among many favourable circumstances, a copious supply of wat«r within the fort is certainly not the least important. The casemates, or large bomb-proof chambers, along the ramparts, are of such dimensions as to permit the whole garrison (4000 or 5000) to parade within them, these halls of destruction communicating by large folding-doors like drawing-rooms ew suite. The walls are forty feet high, and the ditch about fifty feet wide, cut out of the solid rock. The barracks, magazines, storehouses, &c. are extensive and com- modious, and the whole arrangements admirably adapted for defence and mutual support. Nothing can be more magnificent than the coup d!ml from the old Cavalier's Battery upon the sum- mit. Far to the right and left stretches the noble St Lawrence ; close underneath is the city, with the wharfs and shipping ; and on the opposite or southern shore rises Point Levi, enlivened by many a gay white building, farms, (Src. Ranging to the east, the eye at once rests on the Isle of Orleans, dividing the river into two nearly equal branches ; and to the north-east is the bold ravine, from whence rushes the Montmorenci, precipitating its waters over a fall 240 feet in height. The river St Charles bounds 78 PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. Quebec, upon the iiortli, and from its banks a rich and cultivated country extends back for several miles to the Indian villaj>;e of Loretto, beyond which the landscape is closed by finely wooded liills as far as the eye can reach. The Plains of Abraham extend to the westward of the city, upon the table-land above the river. The high road to Montreal nearly intersects them ; and on the left, as you leave town, is the race course. Some attention has been paid to this amusement in Canada, and I saw two st<^etls in training, not, liowever, upon the verdant turf, but trashing round and round the great square, upon pavement and roads by no means smooth. One was a powerful bay-horse, got by Filho da Puta, and had cost 400 guineas ; the otber was a favoui-ite mouse- coloured mare (Clara Fisher), bred in Virginia, and of great symmetry and beauty. The Plains of Abraham, however, have witnessed more glorious and heart-stirring contests than those of the race-course ; and tiie memory of Wolfe, fall- ing as he did in the very arms of victory, must be ever cherished and revered. The inhabitants of Quebec are of a somewhat motley description. As you pass along its streets, the lively chatter of the native French, the animated brogue of the Emerald Isle, English, Scotch, and even the dialect of the Gael, assail your ear at every turn. Law proceed- ings are conducted in English and French ; and in a short trial at which I was present, the jury was charged by judge and barristers, in both tongues. I left Quebec, late at night, upon my return to RETURN TO MONTREAL. 79 Montreal, the departure of the steam-boat being de- pendent upon the tide. Tlie influx of emigrants at Quebec is very great, and a large proportion landing in a state of destitu- tion, the inhabitants are subjected to a most vexa- tious burden in providing some temporary supjdies. Fifty thousand have been landed at Quebec this season (1831), and probably ten thousand more have passed on to Montreal, without being regularly re- ported. App. No. 3 and 4. The weather was fine, and I was again fortunate in a pleasant party. Mr Molson returned with us, having abandoned all thoughts at present of attempt- ing to raise the unfortunate Waterloo. Another splendid steamer, I believe of 260 horse-power, also his property, was to be launched this day at Montreal, to be named the "John Bull ;" and his Canada friends, who seem, by-the-by, ever ready to answer, and slow to baulk, a convivial call, considered it quite inde- corous to pass over such an event without off'ering an oblation to Johns success. We stopped as before at Trois Rivieres ; and while the wood store was re- plenishing, some of the jJarty had a short ramble through the village. It was a delightful evening, and we heard with some regret the bell which sum- moned us on board. One unlucky wight, who had been at first rather tardy in his motions, was com- pelled by a second peal so to accelerate his steps, that, in passing along the plank, whether from inad- vertence or the fumes of our libation to John Bull, he missed his footing, and soused over head into 80 RETURN TO MONTREAL. the river. There was fortunately assistance at hand, and he speedily appeared in dripping garments upon deck, whence he was quickly removed to his berth. The sun set this evening with imcommon splendour. In the course of the night we reached Montreal, and at an early hour I got ashore, and resumed my quar- ters in Goodenough's hotel. ( 81 ) CHAPTER VII. Visit to the Upper Provinces— Coach Journey to La Chine— Steam-Boat Travelling on the St Lawrence— Land Travel- ling in a non-descript Vehicle — Canadian Roads — Town of Prescot. Time being precious, and the communication with the Upper Provinces being now open, I prepared to leave Montreal, upon Thursday, April 8 *. Coach hours are eai-ly in the States and in Canada. We started before 5 A. M., along a very tolerable road, for La Chine, distant nine miles. A canal, of considerable importance to commerce, by avoiding some troublesome rapids, has been formed for the like distance. The surface of the country is flat ; the soil, though light, is apparently fertile ; and the husbandry superior to what usually presents itself * However crude the travelling accommodations may yet be in Canada or the States, it is certain that matters are mending. In 1796, Weld could only find two vehicles in Albany, which were in use to be hired to travellers, and these only to be had at a most extravagant rate ; while, in order to reach the Upper Province, he says, " On arriving here (Montreal) our first con- cern was to provide a large travelling tent-camp-equipage, buf- falo skins, dried provisions, &c. and, in short, to make every usual and necessary preparation for ascending the St Lawrence by a batteau to Kingston." At present, I had only to step intothe stage-office and pay for my place, F 82 COACH JOURNEY TO LA CHINE. in this part of the world ; a circumstance wliich the vicinity of Montreal may in some measure explain. Our coach party proved a pleasant one. We had with us a sort of public chai'acter, in a journalist of the Upper Province, noted for principles, hy some called liberal, and by others denounced as breHthin<f sedition itself. Mr M was now on his re- turn from Quebec, where he had been catering for the columns of " TJie Colonial Advocate" and, among other items, had received the parliamentary papers upon the Rideau Canal, a })recious morceav. for cri- tique and exposition. At La Chine we embarked in a steam-boat upon an expansion of the St Lawrence, called Lake St Louis. A capital breakfast was waiting us on board, and we had a very pleasant run of twenty-three miles to the Cascades, where (on account of rapids in the river) we resumed our land travelling. From the bad state of the road we were obliged to use wag- gons, and had a somewhat rougli ride of sixteen miles to Coteau de Lac. The country was settled, and well cultivated. The houses, barns, &-c. were commodious ; and we passed several handsome churches. The population I understood to be chiefly Roman Catholic. At Coteau we again took posses- sion of a steamer, and started for Cornwall, distant thirty-six miles. The road during our last stage was for the most part along the river side, and the noble stream, clear as crystal, with foaming rapids, and romantic islands, clothed in dark pines and other varieties of wood, formed a constant source of RIVER ST LAWRENCE. 83 delight, not forgetting the brilliant plumage of the crested kingfisher, every where abundant on its banks. We were now upon Lake St Francis, ano- ther wide expanse of the St Lawrence. It seems to me that there is a pleasant variety in this amphi- bious mode of travelling, and it is so arranged, by suiting our meals to the time spent upon the water, that the utmost comfort and leisure is secured to the traveller. The plan for to-day was to dine on board, and reach Cornwall in the evening, there to remain all night. An old adage has pronounced, however, that there is much between the cup and the lip. We left Coteau with every prospect of a favourable voy- age, but ere we had proceeded many miles we were caught by one of those squalls, which occasionally arise in a moment, upon tlie lakes. Prepai-ations were making in the cabin for dinner, and I was en- gaged in writing, when my attention was drawn to a confused noise upon deck, while, at the same mo- ment, the vessel gave a heavy lurch, with the sensa- tion of a sudden stop. I was immediately called up by a fellow passenger, and, as I ascended, the engineer rushed past me, pale as death, exclaiming, " We are lost /' I did not at the moment comprehend the full extent of our danger, as the alarm arose, not from the squall alone, but from the machinery having be- come disordered, the pumps choked, and an explo- sion immediately expected. All was in confusion upon deck, the captain and mate alone seeming to retain self-possession. A poor Canralian voyageur, who had charge of the helm, fled from his post, call- f2 84 STEAM-BOAT TRAVELLIfCG iiig in despair upon Sainte Marie for aid. Fortunate- ly, a steady fellow, with betternerves and less faith in saints, had been placed beside him, and succeeded in keeping the vessel's head to the wind. At one heavy roll, a general movement took place in tlie steward's pantry, and nearly a score of bottles, Madeira, brandy, &c. with lots of crockery and crystal, were demolished, with an astounding crash. Bad as this was, too, it was by no means all, for one of those ex- tensive rafts, constructed in winter and moved down in spring to Montreal or Quebec, had gone to pieces just a-head. The logs, now cast loose, were rushing past us in numbers on each side, with a violence whicli must liave inevitably staved the vessel if she had been struck. Neither could we contemplate without dismay eleven poor fellows cast away by the raft. Two or three of tliem, distinctly observed at a very short distance, seemed to be in the last strug- gle; and great was our relief by learning (though not until some days afterwards, at Kingston) that they had all, in a most providential manner, by cling- ing to spars, been carried for several miles, in safety to the American side. For ourselves, by some hap- py change below, the pumps suddenly cleared, steam resumed its office, and, ere we had time to ponder much upon the matter, we were scudding back for Coteau before the gale, which continued to blow for several hours, with unabated violence. On the following morning, when I came upon dock, I found that we had taken our second depart- ure from Coteau about 3 o'clock a. nr. The storm ON THE ST LAWRENCE. 85 was past, the lake tranquil, and the morning beauti- ful. St Francis had now begun to contract, and the St Lawrence to resume its form. We passed many- romantic islands of various extent, some entirely co- vered with wood, others partially cleared. On our right, and close along the water edge, lay the Glen- garry settlement. A mansion-house, bearing the same name, is finely placed upon a commanding point, but at present is in ruin, from the effects of fire. The settlement is extensive, and the local ad- vantages are such, that, with ordinary attention and industry, the colonists must prosper. The wheat had a most luxuriant appearance, but the general as- pect of the farms betokened rather indiff"erent ma- nagement. It may be very fairly objected, that an agricultural survey from the deck of a steam-boat is little worthy of regard, though a stronger bias cer- tainly prevails with our gallant celts, for the toils of the forest and the chase, than for steady labour at the mattock or the plough. Several of the farms wear a different aspect, and bring their careless neigh- bours into more striking contrast. We breakfasted, as usual, on board, and soon after reached Cornwall, where we were destined to pursue our course by land, for Prescot, a distance of fifty miles, and which it was intended we should accomplish before night. I had travelled in coaches and in waggons, but here a vehicle was in waiting which might be termed a cross-breed. It partook both of the waggon and the coach, and was most incommodiously distinguished by the absence of a door, the window forming the 86 CANADIAN ROADS. only mode of effecting- our " exits and our entrances."' A short distance from Cornwall we were brought up, in some very heavy road, by the splinter bar giving way ; an accident which, considering that we had to send back to the town for aid, was repaired M'ith mar- vellous celerity. It soon became evident, however, from this delay, and the general aspect of the road, (a heavy clay floated by rain) that we should not sleep at Prescot ; and it was some consolation to learn that one of the best kept taverns in Canada, awaited us about midway. The part of the country in which we now were, appears to be a good agricul- tural district. The soil varies from a heavy clay to a lighter description, in some places inclining to sand, and would seem to be exceedingly well adapted for a sheep stock. In the States of New York, and in Canada, a fine stool of white clover is ever ready to start up when the land is tolerably clean, and left to rest. Our route for the most part lay near the river, and the beautiful scenery (rapids and romantic islands in succession) continued to claim our notice and re- gard. Farms, pretty well cultivated, enclosed by *' warm' fences of split rails, comfortable houses, and fine orchards, were every where frequent, cand fancy could revel on many a spot where the eye of taste would find little difficulty in laying out a noble do- main. Our road was now every mile getting worse, and the Avooden bridges across brooks and ravines appeared to my unpractised eye to be almost impas- sable. My fellow-travellers, however, (an amiable CANADIAN ROADS. 87 young lady included) testified neithei* surprise nor alarm, and, of course, it did not become me to com- plain. The planks of the bridges were frequently so loose, so rotten, and so crazy, that I am yet at a loss to conjecture how our bulky machine and the four higli-mettled steeds escaped without falling through, A sufficient supply of stone for repairs lay along the road side, generally too in heaps, as gathered from the land, while timber for the bridges was certainly not far to seek. The period of annual repair had not, however, yet come round, and even then no me- tal would be applied, the road would merely receive a sort of levelling, often, as I was assured, with tJie plough, and the mud holes be in some temporary way filled up. A great deal might be said upon Canadian roads, and it is a subject of regret that, from several causes, there is but little prospect of any immediate im- provement. Road-making can only be substantially and satisfactorily executed, by men who have made it a profession. Canada is yet too poor and too thinly settled to affoi'd funds by assessment or by turnpike, and the roads are, for the most part, con- signed to the services of the farmei's themselves, who turn out with their waggons and teams for a certain number of days in each year. The interest of each individual is thus palpably to consult his own ease, and the road is repaired to very little purpose. In fact it is done with considerable reluctance, be- cause the farmer feels that he is labouring more for the public than for himself. His sleigh in winter, 88 CANADIAN ROADS. witli tlie .advantages of water-carriage in almost every part of" the province, render the good or had condi- tion of the highways to liini a matter of comparative indifference. And thus it seems likely enough to continue until the country fills up, and more general intercourse shall he established. It may he asked, why does not the Legislature interfere and complete a good road, tho first of all improvements ? In re- ply, I can only hazard a conjecture, that, in the event of a rupture with our neighbours, a good road along the frontier might be convertible into a serious annoy- ance, and that for military purposes the Rideau Canal is expected to form a communication botwoen the Upper and Lower Province. Whetlier it will realize such hopes, or how we are to protect the locks at Kingston and other points of the line from any serious attempt by the Americans to occupy or destroy them, must be settled by those who are more deeply versed in such matters than I am : but bad as our road may be, I am wandering rather too far from it. I have mentioned the awkward provision made in our vehicle for ingress and egress, a provision by the way, devised for the purpose of excluding water in passing through rivers and brooks. Frequent were the requests of our coachmen, " Just to get out a bit" calls which, however prudent and reasonable in themselves, were attended with no slight inconveni- ence to me, as it proved no joke for a man of my caliber to be bolting out and scrambling in at tho window every few miles. Besides this harlequinade, CANADIAN ROADS. 89 our ears were occasionally saluted in more critical circumstances, with a shrill cry of, " Gentlemen^ please a little to the right or to the left," as the case might require, when, our own sensations readily se- conding the call, there was an instantaneous and amus- ing scramble to restore the equilibrium. Broken heads on sucli occasions are by no means rare, though hap- pily we suffered no material inconvenience beyond the slowness of our progress. In one very bad clay- hole, with a steep bank, our machine faii'ly stuck fast, and was all but upset. In vain did our excellent horses strive to clear it. The coachman was obliged to repair to a neighbouring farm for a team of oxen, while some of the party provided themselves, sans oeremonie, with stakes from the adjoining fence, to be ready with their aid. In due time the oxen ar- rived, the body of the carriage was lifted off the frame, and the wheels extricated, the whole affair being transacted without any symptoms of bad hu- mour, or, so far as I heard, a single angry maledic- tion. The operation necessarily requiring some time, Mr F , his sister, and I, paid our respects to an honest Dutch farmer on the wayside. We found a clean tidy house, a busy household, a most civil welcome, and a hearty lunch of bread and but- ter, preserved peaches and milk, all superlatively good ; nor could we manage to offer any compensa- tion beyond thanks to the good dame, and gratifying her benevolence by a trifle of charity for a poor wi- dow in the neighbourhood, in whom the family seemed to be much interested. 90 MATILDA DISTRICT. It was evening ere we readied our quarters in a snug, comfortable country inn. Tlie house was not very large, and the party was rather numerous, Avhich for the first time in my American travels deprived me of a single room. This event, so fruitful a theme with some tourists, only occurred to me upon ooie other occasion, and then a handsome apology was spontaneously oiFered by the landlord, in a very crowded hotel, for putting a friend and myself into a double-bedded room. Higgledy-piggledy ad- ventures, no doubt, occur in the back woods, but we should scarce hold it fair, (I guess,) to produce a hedge alehouse or a Highland clachan as fair samples of what travellers are to expect in journeying through Britain. Many were the friendly admonitions, too, which I received before leaving home, anent certain little vampyres, the teiTor and the torment of weary travellers. Now, whatever may have ])een the lot of others, I am bound to state, that I only encoun- tered this species of annoyance once, and that was in our o^Ti good city of Quebec. The scenery at Camp- bell's tavern is fine. Deer are frequently seen, and Mr C. described with some interest the capture of two very fine ones lately, in the act of swimming from an island in front of the house. The following morning proved very rainy until after breakfast, when it cleared, and we proceeded cheerily on our route. We were now in the Matilda district, which I consider a favourable situation for settlers, who are able and inclined to purchase farms already made. The soil appears in general of a 3IATILDA DISTRICT. 91 light description, probably well suited for sheep. We had the river for the most part in view with wooded islands of infinite beauty. In some places the clearing of the land has been effected by fire, and when a forest of tall blackened masts occasion- ally presented themselves in a bay or behind a head- land, bearing a very tolerable resemblance to a crowd- ed dock, the mind's eye was led to anticipate the period when such may be actually realized in the commerce of this noble stream. Nothing particular occurred in our day's ride. The lumbering article of yesterday was exchanged for two light waggons, the road was better, and we reached Prescot in good time for dinner. This is a town of some size, but does not at present appear to be in a very flourishing condition. Directly oppo- site in locality, and I suspect also in prosperity, is Ogdensburgh, in the State of New York, to which we resolved upon a trip after dinner, as the steam- boat which was to convey us to Kingston had not yet arrived. We found a convenient steam-boat at the ferry, which in a few minutes landed us in the States. Ogdensburgh was formerly called Oswe- gatchie, the name of a powerful stream falling into the St Lawrence, and, from the capital and taste of Mr Parish, and other proprietors, is fast emerging from a village to become a bustling town. ( 02 ) CHAPTER VIII. Voyage from Present to Kingston — The Thousand Islands- Town ofKingston — Rideiiu Canal — Excursion on Quintd Bay — Voyage on Lake Ontario to Queenston — Anecdotes of the Frontier War. After inspecting some extensive saw-mills, we returned to Prescot, and found the " Sir James Kempt' nearly ready to start for Kingston. A very large steamei', the property of John Hamilton, Esq. was lately launched here, and now lay in the river nearly equipped. Late as was the hour, Mr H. in- sisted upon our paying her a visit, and most kindly accompanied us. The affair was not altogether plea- sant, as before arrangements were made, it had be- come quite dark, and we required the aid of a ric- ketty boat to reach the vessel, which being accom- plished, we had to scramble up and down her lofty side by the light of a lantern, and only a rope to trust to. Her accommodations were certainly su- perb and convenient. We passed Morristown on the American, and Brockville on the Canada, shore, during the night, and being aware of the fine scenery before us, our captain kindly engaged to call me be- fore entering on the labyrinth of the Thousand Islands. THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 93 Sunday, May 1 About four this morning I was summoned on deck, and found the vessel moored to a natural wharf, where we liad been taking in a sup- ply of fueL A set of free-and-easy woodcutters find a livelihood here, by clearing Government land of its timber, without troubling the authorities to col- lect value or rents. It consists of pine, and is not, I believe, of much intrinsic value. A man may pre- pare two cords a-day, but it is severe work, and the price, which is one dollar per cord, will do little more than compensate maintenance and labour. Our ves- sel takes about 2000 cords per annum. The morn- ing was worthy of Alay-day, and 1 watched the gra- dual approach of sunrise with much interest. The river, smooth as a mirror, reflected minutely on its surface every tree and every rock. \^^e soon got involved among the islands, the river expanding to a lake, and deriving its name from the number. On every hand you observe numberless channels and wooded islands of all sizes and forms. Some are of considerable extent; while others scarce admit of footing to the woodman, who seeks to rob them of their solitary pine. Many a flock of water-fowl did our paddles scare from their quiet haunts, while oc- casionally a majestic eagle might be seen soaring aloft. It was altogether a scene of much interest and beauty. Our helmsman recounted to me a sport- ing feat of some novelty which occurred here last fall, and ended in the capture of a fine buck, observed swimming among the islands, and which, after many a double, was fairly run down by the steamer, en- ^■1 TOWN OK KINGSTON. cuiuhered at the time by four heavy Durham boats towing at her stern. We stopped for a little at Guananoque, where a fine mill-stream pours into the St Lawrence, and has led to a thriving establishment of extensive flour-mills, a cooperage, &c., with a well cultivated farm, the property of Mr INIacdonnell. Kingston, the largest and most considerable town in Upper Canada, thougli not tlie seat of govern- ment, opens with a fine effect as you pass the Fort and enter the Bay. It is a rare and curious sight to look upon a fleet of large ships of war, laid up in or- dinary, in a fresh-water lake so remote from the ocean. Long may it be ere the Temple of Janus shall again be opened ; but should Ontario and Erie be yet destined to bear the armed navy of Britain, it is to be hoped that her rulers may discover the waters to be fi-esh. To send out at an enormous ex- pense from an English dock-yard the complete frame- work of a frigate, was bad enougli, l)ut to add a regular set of water casks, which a bucket was ready at any moment to supersede, may well be termed the acme of improvidence and waste. The town of Kingston is well laid out, with some handsome churclies, &c. and many excellent i)rivate mansions, substantially built of stone. Our quarters in Meyers' Hotel were extremely comfortable, and we reached town in time to attend service in tlie Epis- copal Church. It was pleasing again to listen to the peal of the organ, and the solemn liturgy of our diurch, in a land yet but half emerged from a savage state; .and we had a most excellent sermon from Mr TOWN OF KINGSTON. 95 C., the worthy aud exemplary clergyman of the place. Kingston is a place of trade, for which it is well situate, and appears to be in a prosperous state. It is also a military and naval station. The popula- tion, I believe, is above three thousand souls. Hav- ing an opportunity at this place of visiting a portion of the Rideau Canal, by a ride of a few miles into the forest, I procured horses for a young fellow tra- veller and myself from our obliging host, and in a delightful afternoon, with a genuine American for a guide, we started on our excursion. We had a pleasant scamper through the woods, and in due time reached the canal. Some very fine locks have been constructed here, of solid masonry and beauti- ful workmanship, but executed, I should think, with no very rigid considerations of economy or expense. An extensive embankment has been formed, to deepen a shallow lake, and the canal, from this point, will very soon be opened into Kingston Bay. The log-huts, &c. are government property, stamped with the broad arrow, and the inmates, I regretted to ob- serve, stamped also with the sickly hue of an aguish district. We crossed the line of the canal, and re- turned to town by the south side of the bay. A little trait of American character, not perhaps unworthy of record, occurred as we jogged along. When passing a farm-yard, the ears of our guide were, for the first time in his life, saluted by the screech of a peacock. Listening with little patience to my description of the bird, he galloped off to find him, poking about in every dii-ection. The evening was fast closing in, 9G TOWN OF KINGSTON. and as we could not proci-od witliout lilni, I sounded a loud note of recal. It was sounded, however, in vain ; liotliing- would do, until lie finally succeeded in finding the object of his search, perched in full glory on a rail. Some high-minded folks will per- haps say, " Here was impertinence with a ven- geance ! What ? a fellow engaged for a time as your servant, absolutely presume to leave you in the lurch." Even so, and yet I must plead to having been more amused than provoked by the resolute detemiination of Jonathan to satisfy a reasonable curiosity, though at the hazard of giving some of- fence to a temporary employer. We recrossed the river by a wooden bridge, built by subscription, and the pontage upon which yields a good return ; it is about one-third of a mile in ex- tent. The fort, the navy-yard, t^c. are situated up- on a bold headland commanding the harbour. In a paddock adjoining the residence of the commodore, I observed a small herd of the native deer. They wei'e in low condition, but appeared near akin to the red deer of Scotland. A\'illingly could I have lingered for some time in the neighbourhood of Kingston, but time was pressing, and only admitted of a steam-boat excursion on Qninte Buy. I started in the Sir James Kempt on the following morn- ing, and passed several fine situations for \ illas in the vicinity of the town and upon the banks of the lake. Mr Haggerman, solicitor-general of Upper Canada, possesses one of great beauty, ^\•ith the grounds sloping down to the water edge. We had BAY OF QUINTE. 97 as usual a numerous cabin party, and I met with the utmost kindness and anxiety to aiFoi'd me informa- tion. The Bay of Quinte is a sound, running up for eighty or ninety miles to the mouth of the River Trent, and separated from Ontario by an extensive and fine peninsida, called Prince Edward's Island. Missourga Point is very beautiful, in many features resembling the park scenery of England. The object of our voyage, besides the conveyance of passengers, seemed mainly directed to the collection of flour at va- rious villages and wharfs, and with which our deck be- came ultimately loaded to its utmost capacity of stOM'- age. Sometimes the flour was received from stores, but frequently most comfortable looking personages attended our arrival with wagg( n loads from their farms, periods of call having been previously arrang- ed. During a part of the first night we lay at the mouth of the Trent, and we spent the following day cruizing from place to place. It was amusing each morning at breakfast to observe the change of faces, which had occurred during the night. On Tuesday evening we were detained at Bath by a smart thun- der-storm, accompanied with heavy rain ; and, as if a disturbance in the elements was not enough, we were favoured with a glorious roio between a loving couple on deck. Loud was tlie din of war, but the shrill pipe of the lady prevailed, and the discomfited hero resigned the field, protesting that he could no longer endure her temper, and now bade her adieu for ever. Little did he reckon upon having so nearly realized this doughty bravado. The night was dark, G 93 BAY OF QUINTE. and a hasty stride immersed him in the lake, front whence he was draprged, sufficiently cooled, by the men engaged in loading the boat, and restored to his cara sposa, amidst the most appropriate exclamations of penitence on lier part for having, as she supposed, driven him to the dreadful act The country along the Bay of Quinte is altogether pleasing, the land for the most part good, and the locality favourable for agricultural or mercantile settlers. Various small towns are here advancing to importance, and alto- gether, it is a district which deserves the attention of emigrants who are not prepared to plant them- selves at once in the bush, and who have a moderate capital wherewith to make a purchase of land, in some measure reclaimed. Early on Wednesday morning, May 4th, we reached Kingston, and, after breakfast, I re-embark- ed in the Alciope, a steamer which plies from hence to Queenston, on the Niagara river. Besides ordi- nary passengers, we had with us a detachment of the 79th Highlanders, with families and baggage, on route for Amherstburgh, a small fort at the west end of Lake Erie. They Avere a healthy, joyous set, indulging in many a rough practical joke with each other, but kind, atlectionate, and gentle to the women and children. Tiie officei'S were j)leasant, gentle- manly men, and great was the surprise of Captain R , who commanded the party, when he dis- covered my name upon my luggage, he being a na- tive of Perth, altliough we were personally unknown to each other. His wife and childrenwcre with him, and I felt a pleasure in being thus enabled to carry LAKE ONTARIO. 99 good accounts of tliem to Scotland. Canada, I was told, is sadly subversive of discipline, and a run to the States is easily effected, when officers prove what the soldiers please to consider too strict. Two gre- nadiers from the 79th had disappeared that very morning. Deserters, however, frequently return, and Sir John Colborne has adopted, in ordinary cases, lenient measures, a course which seemed to be gene- rally approved. Behold us now fairly at sea, upon fresh water, with a head wind and heavy swell, and many passen- gers discomposed. Our coiu-se lay about twenty miles from land on either side. Ontario is about 180 miles in length, and 100 fathoms in depth. The water is perfectly pellucid, while Erie is turbid. The latter being comparatively shallow (about 40 fathoms), probably occasions the difference. Our cabin table and our cabin party were sumptuous and agreeable, as I have always found them. On Thursday morning I rose early and enjoyed from our upper deck a splendid sunrise. It exhibited, as it were, the united magnificence of that sublime ob- ject, as witnessed both at sea and on shore. About twelve this forenoon, when perambulating the deck, a huge column of smoke, rising in clouds, and far to the south-west, attracted my attention. It was Nia- gai-a, then distant about twenty-five miles, as the crow flies. The sky was of a fine clear, yellowish^ red, well adapted to increase the effect; and I watch- ed it with feelings of interest becoming hourly more intense as I approached the scene of so many won- G 2 100 LAKE ONTARIO. ders. We were ofF the mouth of the Niagara about three o'clock, and met tJie steam-boat for York com- ing out, to which several of our party transferred themselves. The river was full of shoal-ice, and our progress became necessarily slow. Notwithst;uuling many precautions, we received some heavy thunij)s, and lost part of our paddle- sheathing. The river is here about a quarter of a mile in width, and forms our boundary with the States. Upon the south or south-west bank stands the old French fort, garrisoned by the Americans ; and ex- actly vis a vis is Fort George, occupied by British troops. Adjoining to it is the small town of Newsirk, frequently and most inconveniently called likewise Niagara. It is well placed for trade, but did not seem to be much alive. There are some morasses in the vicinity, said to render it at times rather unhealthy; but, as it stands upon an extensive platform, I should imagine this to be rare, or, at all events, by judicious drainage, not difficult to correct. I ought to have mentioned that Mr H , whose acquaintance I had made in Montreal, is owner of the Alciope, and was himself along with us. My letters of introduction for Newark and Queenston were thus rendered nugatory, as my hospitable friend would allow no door in Queenston to open for me but his own. There we arrived early in the evening, and there I found a large and most comfort- able packet from home, a gratification which almost rivals a reunion with friends. Queenston is a small town, overhanging the river, .ind close at the foot of that remarkable ridge which intersects the country, ANECDOTES OF THE FRONTIER WAR. 101 and which, by many geologists, is conjectured, at some remote period, to have formed the margin of Lake Ontario. Directly opposite is Lewiston, a thriving town in the state of New York. Tlie whole frontier from Ontario to Erie formed the scene of bloody strife during the last war. A severe action was fought on Queenston heights on the 13th of October 1812, and a tree iu a small field, on the west side of the village, marks the spot where General Brock fell, when gallantly leading on the British troops to a charge. He was greatly respected by both armies, and deeply lamented by his own. A stately column has been erected to his memory, with a spiral staircase of 120 steps, recompensing the la- bour of ascent with an extensive and most beautiful prospect. The battle of Queenston was a day of varied success, but finally terminated in the repulse of the Americans. The animated and bloody contest transacting on the Canada shore was alleged to have operated somewhat unfavourably on the nerves of the American reserve, who, at all events, by refus- ing in the afternoon to cross the river, consummated the discomfiture of their gallant friends. The banks of the river are precipitous, and probably 300 feet in height, thickly wooded ; and here terminates the wild ravine, which commences seven miles above it, at the Falls. If certain geological theories are right, this was once actually the spot where Niagara thundered ; and the Falls are supposed to have been for ages gradually receding. The natiu-e of the sub- strata and some well ascertained facts bear curiously upon this speculation. The constant friction of such 102 ANKCUOTES OK THE FRONTIER AVAR. a mass of water, as displayed in the foaming- rapids above the cataract, with the effective agency of win- ter frosts, certainly conveyed to my mind a strong impression that the theory might be sound. The river runs here with a powerful current, and is about half a niile in width. It is hardly possible to imagine a more appalling spectacle than the American troops must have presented when driven in wild confusion down these banks. My friend 11 , from a know- ledge of their language, was attached to the Indian brigade. He placed me, with a giddy head, upon the spot where his unerring riflemen maintained a deadly fire upon the hapless foe scrambling through the thicket of cedars, or attempting to swim the river, in which many a poor fellow perished. Innumerable are the anecdotes, tragic and comic, which were detailed regarding this frontier Avar. The employment of our red allies was a subject of much vituperation against the British. The history of Colonel D , a Canadian, Avho commanded the Indians, AA'as fruitful in adventure and anecdote. He was perfectly master of the Indian language and cus- toms, had lived much among them, and, to sum up all perfection, had chosen a SquaAv for his Avife. In every sport and in every danger he AA'as one of them- selves ; and, Avhere they place their confidence and affection, both arc alike unbounded. It happened to him once, in the Avestern country, Avhen engaged in the fur trade, th.at his party, exhausted Avith fa- tigue, resisted all his persuasions to proceed, and in- sisted upon erecting- a Avigwam for the night, at a certain pass, known to be a haunt of the Indians ANECDOTES OF THE FRONTIER WAR. 103 when in wait to plunder the traders. The men were soon asleep, but D , with an anxious eye, lay watching- the dying embers ; and, while there yet remained sufficient light to distinguish objects, he recognised the dreaded visitors, crawling like huge snakes into the hut. It was vain to think of resistance ; he feigned to be asleep, almost afraid to breathe, and only hoping that the removal of their booty might satisfy the Indians, if no interruption should occur. At this anxious moment, teri-ified lest any of his men should suddenly awake, his ears were greeted by a welcome whisper from the fore- most, addressed to those behind, " It is Redhead," the name by which D was known in the woods. The simple announcement acted like a charm, and the work of blood was arrested ; but to show per- haps (like David of old) how entirely they had the party in their power, the leader moved quietly round, and passed his hand along each man's throat, before making his exit. At another time, when un- der the most distressing privations from want of food, D encountered a party of Indians, in near- ly as bad a plight as himself. Famine stared him in the face, and he could scarcely look for aid from those who had but a scanty morsel for themselves. Relying, however, upon his knowledge of Indian feelings, he thus, in simple language, addressed tlie chief: "Father, I am hungry:" " »So«, (says the old man, offering at once their little stock), take, eat" And these are men whom we term savage ! May God grant that they suffer no abasement in the boasted refinements of civilized life ! ( 104 ) CHAPTER IX. F.'ills of Niajjara — Journey to York — An ^,r<m, or American Post-Chaiso — Newark — The White Fish of tlie Lakes— — Town of York — Government- House. Friday, May G. — After breakfast I took leave of my friend, and walked on for the Falls, leaving- the stage, in which I had secured a })lace, to follow. The day Avas delightful, and as I ascended the steep hill from Queenston, I overtottk a soldier of the 79tli in charge of the baggage-waggons, leaning on his musket, and wrapt in admiration of the sur- rounding scenery: " It's mair like Scotland, Sir, than (my thing Tve seen sin' I left it," was the poor fel- low's remark, and truly it was far from misapplied, making due allowance for difference of scale. The country from Queenston to the Falls is well settled, and finely diversified by farms, orchards, and open forest. The soil is perhaps light, but in some places of a stronger description, and all apparently fertile desirable land. A very beautiful property, original- ly laid out by the ill-fated Duke of Richmond, and subsequently possessed by Sir Peregrine Maitland, adjoins the road. The house, which is in the cot- tage style, of wood, seems large and commodious. Tliis estate is in a very favourable situation, and has been lately sold for L. 2000 ; it contains about 450 acres of good useful laud. The distance from Queen' FALLS OF NIAGAKA. 105 ston to Niagara is about. seven miles, and I saunter- ed on the whole way, the coach not overtaking me. About four miles from the Falls, the sound came up- on my ear like the murmur of Old Ocean on a rugged strand. In certain states of the atmosphere and wind this is heard at a much greater distance. The noise gradually increased, and by-and-by the spray was to be seen rising in columns above the trees. A splendid and extensive establishment was soon after recognised as Forsyth's hotel, and, under feelings far more intense than ordinary curiosity, I hurried foi'ward to a point, where Niagara, in all its glory, came in view. From the increasing facility of migrating now-a-days, this wonder of the world has lost somewhat of that mysterious halo with which it was wont to be enveloped ; but still it must ever be Niagara. The most eloquent descriptions will prove inadequate to convey a just conception of the scene. Nor can the pencil, I imagine, ever do it justice. A cataract may be said (as regards the painter's art) to differ from all other objects In na- ture. The human face and figure, the rich and varied landscape, the animal and vegetable world, may with sufficient propriety be delineated at rest, but quiescence forms no feature here. The cease- less loar, the spray mounting like clouds of smoke from a giant limekiln, with the enormous sheet of water which rolls over the precipice, can be felt and understood only by repeated visits to the scene. My attention was for a time distracted by the rapids which are extremely interesting, and which with any ; lOG FALLS OP NIAGARA. Other noiglibour than the Falls would excite the high- est admiration and wonder. After some time spent in contemplation, I proceeded to my friends, where a kind and comfortable Iiome awaited me. Mr C. possesses a residence, which is certaiidy one of the most romantic domiciles in the world. The house stands on a small lawn upon a point overhanging the rapids, and about half a mile above the Horse- Shoe Fall. The garden is behind, washed by a fine branch of the river, which encircles a wild and thickly wood- ed island, and on every side new and interesting prospects appear. The river is a mile across, and of great depth, and, for the same distance above the Falls, is one continued sheet of foam. We saunter- ed down in the evening to the river side, and the ra])ids lost nothing by a closer inspection. My bed- room looked directly upon them ; I could watch the smoke of the Fall, even as I lay on my pillow; and with the wild roar of the cataract sounding in my ears, I closed my first day at Niagara. The following morning proved fine, and we devot- ed the forenoon to the Falls. Lake Erie had just broken up, and the icebergs came crashing down the rapids, in a way extremely interesting. My friends being quite at home in all the mazes of the river side, conducted me by a wild and rugged route to the edge of the Table- rock, when, upon emerging from a tangled brake, I beheld the Horse-shoe or great British Fall, pouring down its volume of ice and water, at the distance of a few feet from where we stood. The rock felt to me as though it vibrated, FALLS OF NIAGARA. lOJ and a large mass did in fact lately give way, soon after a party had retired from the precarious stance. It is limestone, full of ugly fissures and rents. A narrow wooden stair conducts adventurous travellers to the bottom of the Fall, where a sort of entrance is generally effected to a short distance under the sheet, and for which performance a certificate, in due form, is served out. The stair was at this time un- der repair, and the accumulation of ice below per- fectly reconciled me to waive pretensions to such slippery honours. At some distance below the Fall, and opposite to the American staircase, there is a ferry, to which a safe and most romantic carriage- road has been lately formed, out of the solid rock, at no small labour and expense. When a similar ac- commodation shall have been provided upon the American side, it is expected to prove a lucrative concern, but for the present, foot-passengers only can be landed in the States. The little skiff had just put off, with a party from the Canada shore, and got involved in streams of ice, in a way somewhat ha- zardous, and which rendered it impossible for the boatman to return. The scene from the Ferry is indeed magnificent, the Horse-shoe, the American Fall, and Goat Island being all in view, with the great cauldron eddying in fearful and endless tur- moil. In the evening I walked up the river side to- Avards the village of Chippeway, to visit a natural curiosity upon Mr C.'s estate. A spring surcharged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas rises within a few paces of the river. A small building is erected over ^08 FALLS OF NIAGATIA. it, and when a candle is applied to the tube in a bar- rel, which encloses the spring, a brilliant and power- ful light is evolved. Close adjoining, are the re- mains of extensive mills burnt by the Americans during last war. The water privilege is groat, and machinery to any extent might be kept in play. Canada, for many a year to come, should have little to do with manufacturing establishments. Her resources, duly fostered, should be employed in the production of food for the artizans of Britain, and thus enable them to maintain their ground in the foreign market. Neither should our agriculturists at home be too much startled at such a prospect, as, happen what may, our landed interest can never pros- per 2vhile our manufacturing interests decay. Should some thousand spinning-jennies, however, at a fu- ture day, here commence operations, behold a ga- someter both economical and effective provided. Springs of this descrii)tion are by no means rare in the Canadas and States. Some have been discover- ed near Canandaigua of great power, and the pro- prietor of the farm, annoyed by hosts of visitors, in the prudent spirit of turning all to account, has opened a tavern for the mutual benefit of the public and himself. The suction occasioned by the rapidity and depth of the stream, extends far above the Falls, and ren- ders it necessary to use the utmost caution in navi- gating canoes or boats. A servant of Mr C. was lost some time ago, in a nocturnal expedition across , the river, and Mr C. detailed to me an adventure of JOURNEY TO YORK. 109 his own, which, though somewhat ludicrous, was certainly attended with hazard. He had gone out a-fishing with a young man in his employment, late- ly arrived in the country, and finding the boat rather more in the vortex than was pleasant, they pulled for shore, in doing which, his companion, by some awkwardness, let slip his oar, and in making an ef- fort under some mental agitation to recover it, the pale and bloated visage of a drowned m.an presented itself, close to the boat, dissipating what little self- possession the poor lad retained. Mr C, however, by an effort, soon got the boat out of the fatal cur- rent, and put all to rights. Upon Monday, May 9, I left my kind friends for the purpose of visiting York, and the country to the west of it. The morning was cold, and the wind a sharp north-wester, accompanied by showers of snow. As it was not a stage-day for Newark, I ordered an extra, which is the same thing with taking a post- chaise. It happened that old Forsyth, the landlord of the Pavilion, had occasion to go down also, and when I entered my extra, I found him very snugly ensconced in a corner. To a man from tlie old coun- try, this was something new ; but the old gentleman, while he offered an apology, did not seem to be much discomposed, and I rather think that the mat- ter was not considered of much moment. Within a week I was myself led, unintentionally, to do the same thing, through the prevailing practice of using the same coaches, for public and private travelling, and upon that occasion the party received both my- 110 AMERICAN POST-CHAISE. self and my explanation witli tlie utmost good hu- mour, fraiiknes!!, and ease. ISIy companion is pro- prietor of the larg-e hotel at the Falls, mentioned by every tourist, and is a personage sufficiently shrewd and well informed* lie told me that his father had been one of the original settlers in the district, and bad migrated from the Genesee country. The change within a few years seems to him nearly marvellous. Often, he said, has he been racoon-hunting wliere is now to be seen the busy town of Rochester, with farms and villages innumerable, when he was well aware that no human being could be within a hun- dred miles of liim, save perliaps some wandering In- dian. Mr F. may be said to have satisfactorily ful- filled one duty of a colonist, by no means unimport- ant. When I inquired of him, whether his family was numerous, " ^Vhy," says he, " Sir, I don't know what you call numerous ; I've raised nineteen, ten by my first wife, and nine by my second." We passed many excellent farms and beautiful orchards in tliis stage of sixteen miles. The day continued stormy, and ultimately the gale became so violent, that the steamer for York could not venture out. A lull was looked for towards evening, and I had no- tliing for it but to saunter about the neighbourhood until the dinner hour at Kreysler's hotel. In con- nexion with the American Fort, Newark became some years ago the scene of a tragical mystery, which lias kindled an extraordinary flame in every State of the Union. We are accustomed in Britain to con- sider Free Masonry as a mere excuse for convivial NEWARK. Ill relaxation ; but it has of late assumed a very diflFer- ent aspect here, and although no doubt the ap- proaching period of electing the chief magistrate tends to give it peculiar vigour, still it must be reckoned the pivot on which all questions of a pub- lic nature at present turn. The public journals suf- ficiently evince the excitement of the public mind, and that baneful consequences have followed no man can deny, who is made acquainted with the fate of Captain Morgan. This unhappy man having be- come obnoxious to the brethren, because he either had or was believed to have promulgated the secrets of the craft, a plan was concocted to punish his trea- son, and make him a signal example. A^liether the scheme originally contemplated his death, or only his removal from America, does not exactly appear, but it is beyond a doubt, that he was inveigled under various pretexts to Niagara, that he has never been seen nor heard of since September 1826, and that, in fact, there is every reason to believe that, when Ontario shall give up its dead, poor Morgan will rise from its depths, in judgment against his mur- derers. It is a melancholy tale, and fraught Avith matters of vital importance to the Americans. At this hour it stands on record, that after sundry at- tempts to bring the culprits to justice, the arm of the law has been palsied, and no jury has been found to convict, upon evidence, too, which might have been deemed I'easonably conclusive, while one most emi- ment lawyer in the State of New York, has de- nounced the jurors for " uttei'ly disregarding their 112 WHITE FISH OF THE LAKES. duty and their oath," addirifr that the " very foun- dation of justice is polluted." Let the nation look to it ere the hour g;oes by, when a remedy may be safely applied to so frightful an evil. Among other good things upon our dinner-table, we were regaled with the celebrated white fish, a de- licacy which, as Charlevoix has long since remarked, " nothing of the fisli kind can excel." It is peculiar, I believe, to the North American lakes and rivers, and, so far as I know, has not been described by ich- thyological writers. Some naturalists consider it to be a nondescript species of Salmo. The flesh is white, and resembles tjie most gelatinous part of the turbot, but considerably richer. The fish is taken with hook and line, frequently at a hole in the ice, being then in highest perfection, and runs from three to eight pounds weight. There is a coating of fat along the back, little inferior in flavour to the rich- est butter. About nine o'clock I was summoned on board, and soon after took possession of a sofa for the night. We took our departure about twelve, and at sunrise next morning were just approaching the northern shore. York is the seat of government in the upper province, and a large peninsula forms a spacious and safe harbour, the barracks, public buildings, <S:c. mak- ing a very respectable appearance as you enter the bay. After breakfast at tlie liotel, where an Irish gentleman and I got a comfortable sitting-room, with our bed-rooms adjoining, I proceeded to deliver let- ters, and waited upon Sir John Colborne, governor TOWN OF YORK. 113 of the upper province. I found the govemment- house, selon le regie, at the west end of the capital. It is a commodious irregular mansion, of wood, with garden, shrubberies, &c. The public apartments are suflBciently spacious and handsome, and nothing could exceed the aifable and easy demeanour of Sir John. It is not for a bird of passage like myself to offer an opinion upon matters of state, but I am greatly de- ceived if Sir John is not fraught with tlie utmost zeal to promote the prosperity of the province, and possessed of sound and clear views, as regards its re- sources and wants. He favoured me with a pretty long interview, and then gave me a note to Mr Ro- binson, who is at the head of the government land- office, and from whom I readily received every atten- tion and information in his power. My next visit was to the office of the Canada Company, where I found the commissioners commu- nicative and truly obliging. Dr D , who acts as warden of the forests, has spent much time in their depths, and gives the seria mixta jocis in the happiest style, when recounting the progress and adventures of settlers in the back woods. The Canada Com- pany, I should think, is calculated to forward the general interests of the colony, although there are certainly those who think otherwise ; and if it shall continue to be prudently administered, will in time yield handsome returns. The exertions made to facilitate the transport and settlement of emigrants, and the liberal terms held out, cannot fail to secure the confidence and good-will of intending settlers. H H4 TOWN OF VORK. I dined in the evening- at the governinent-ljoiise. Tlie party was rather numerous, and quite as agree- able as such affairs commonly prove. Sir John in- troduced me to Dr B , as a g-entleman particu- larly able to give me information upon the state of the province ; a character which he fully redeemed, both then, and during- a long- visit with which he honoured me on the following morning. I may men- tion by the way, regarding this g-entloman (and I certainly do so from no disrepect to him, but as illus- trating good sense and liberal f(!elings in the go- vernor), that, Avhile he was marked by no exclusion from the hospitality and private esteem of Sir John, he was yet remarked as frequently opposed to go- vernment measures ; and I consider it a trait of temper and tact upon the one hand, and of discretion and independence upon the other, well deserving of re- gard. Were such instances more frequent, fewer changes in governments would be required, and the public service would probably be essentially pro- moted. The government of Upper Canada is admi- nistered by a lieutenant-governor, a legislative coun- cil, of not less than seven members, appointed by mandamus from the king, and holding their situation for life ; of an executive council, of not fewer than six ; and of a House of Assembly, being twenty-five members returned by the respective counties. The demon of discord is no stranger here, and his Majesty's ojrposilion claim notice in the Assembly of York, no less than in the hall of St Stephen's. At present I understood government measures to bo gaining po- TOWN OF YORK. 115 pularity ; but as politics came very little within the sphere of my inquiries, I cannot vouch for the accu- racy of my information. That discontent and faction exist in the province, is to say no more than that the government of Canada resembles all other human institutions, but that any tangible grievance is per- versely maintained, must, I should think, be more than doubtful. The inhabitants possess the means of enjoying as much solid happiness as any nation on earth. Mr H , the solicitor-general, assured me, that however turbulent or discontented individuals may have been prior to their arrival in the province, comfort antl plenty soon work wonders on those who are of industrious habits, and loyalty and good- humour speedily follow. h2 ( ne ) CHAPTER X. stage-coach Journey through Toronto and Trafalgar Town- ships — The " Farmer's Inn" — "' Summer's Tavern" — Nelson Township — Visit to Guelph Town— A Forest Ride — Negr Family. I LEFT York upon Wednesday the 11th, about mid-day, in the Hamilton stage, for Summer's Tavern, thirty-five miles distant, where I intended to stop for the night. After a frosty morning-, the day be- came sultry, and an early brood of mosquitoes was on wing. We travelled in a waggon, the roads not being yet in trim for the season. Upon leaving town to the west, we passed through some well improved farms, and soon after entered upon a tract of un- cleared forest, apparently not very valuable land. The road runs through the Toronto, Trafalgar, and Nelson townships. It is for the most part a fine tnitt of country, intersected by powerful streams, falling into Ontario. Some of these are named by the num- ber of miles distance from York, and are said to abound with salmon and other fish. They also aiford fine situations for mill-seats. The road is one of the great highways of the province, but is certainly as yet sufficiently rude, and in some places not unattended TORONTO AND TRAFALGAR TOWNSHIPS. 117 with hazard. The lofty banks of tlie creeks present obstacles wliich have required more than ordinary exertions, and public money has been applied to sur- mount them. I am afraid something- has been amiss, either in regard to a scientific survey, or prudent expendituz-e, for certainly the attempt at amendment has signally failed. The country along the whole line is rapidly filling up, and many farms have attained a well-cultivated appearance. Comfort and cheerful industry seemed every where to reign, whether the settlers were yet engaged with the axe in commen- cing operations, or occupied in conducting the details of more advanced husbandry. It was interesting and not unfrequent to observe the humble shanty, the original nest of the family, left to maintain its station beside the new and more extended mansion. Whether this arose from accident or design, I know not; but it struck me as being in good taste, and calculated to form a useful memorial of the slender rill from whence ease and affluence were destined to flow. The doors and windows being generally open, we caught a glimpse of the interior of each habitation as we passed, and, without an exception, cleanliness and comfort seemed to prevail within. The women and children were particularly tidy and neat. One small possession was laid out in nursery ground for grafted peaches and other fruit-trees, and the house and grounds were dressed in a style, easily attainable, but still ex- tremely rare in Canada, About four o'clock we reached the end of our first fitage, a distance, I think, of twenty miles, and which 1 IH THE farmer's inn. u pair of comp.ict little entire horses had perforniefl remarkably well. We had taken, to be sure, four hours to it, which our English Jehus may be ready to sneer at ; but, had they encountered our steep banks of tough clay, with four or five passengers, luggage, &c., I suspect some, even of our first-rates, would have stuck fast, or considerably exceeded this allowance. We were welcomed to " the Farmers' Iiui — Live and let live" — (a motto not particularly applicable, by-the-by, to Canada) by a bevy of smil- ing damsels, who had every thing about the house perfectly neat and clean. Having breakfasted at eight, and supper depending upon the issue of a fifteen mile stage, yet to come, I expressed a wish to have some lunch, to which delay both coachman and company most readily assented, a great spirit of accommodation generally prevailing in this respect. In a short time I was ushered into a comfortable parlour, where a smart tea-equipage was set out, not without some regard to display; cakes of various kinds, a capital cold apple-pie, and many a nice et ccetera besides, with one of the fair daughters to do the honours of the board, — an office which she per- formed with singular propriety and ease. The fa- mily appeared altogether highly respectable. Many books lay in the room, consisting of history, biogra- phy, &c., and one very splendid octavo bore to be the pi-ayer-book of " Laititia Boure — Industry her occupation, Christ her only salvation." I do not know if it was Miss Lajtitia, but one of the SUMBIER's TAVERN. 119 g'irls was the tallest woman I recollect of having ever met with ; slie was certainly rather over than under six feet, and uncommonly erect. Every thing beto- kened ease and plenty about the rural inn ; and be- fore remounting, I examined the carcase of a large and very fat ox, hanging in the barn, — no bad pros- pect for succeeding travellers. Summer's Tavern is in Nelson township. The host stands high in favour with Dr D — , and a few lines from him secured me an extra welcome. I parted here with my fellow-passengers, who were to travel all night, for Hamilton. My first care was to secure a guide and horses to convey me to Guelph, an infant city, founded by the Canada Company, in the wilderness of Gore — which affair being satisfac- torily adjusted with the blacksmith of the place, and having appointed his son and pair of steeds to be in readiness on the following morning, I had some sup- per, and retired to a most comfortable bed. Thursday \'^th. — The morning proved fine, and having got all our arrangements completed about seven, I took possession of mine host's own saddle, placed upon the blacksmith's best horse, and trotted away, with his son, a fine smart lad, as pilot, on the other. We soon turned off to the right, and ere long got fairly immersed in the forest, losing all signs of cultivation. There are more roads than one to Guelph, and assuredly the one I travelled has no claims to pre-eminence ; indeed, when I afterwards attacked my friend the Warden for sending me such a route, he candidly admitted that he had selected it 120 A FOREST HIDE. as a sample of " a real forest ride.'' For some time all was doliglitfiil. Tlio road was dry, tlie day plea- sant, and every mile became more interesting-, as the magnificence of the forest scenery increased. Pines and cedars (the lignum vitce) of splendid growth, maples of several kinds, beech, walnut, and hickory, elm, cherry, &c. stretched out their towering heads or rugg-ed arms, while the ground was enamelled with lovely flowers of every liue, chiefly, I thought, of the Campanula family. The only living sound whicli broke the stillness of the forest (our own in- significant voices excepted), was the song of the thrush, the screech of the catbird, the whine of Avhip- poor-will, and some other more varied notes of tlie feathered tribe, witli the constant din of what my guide termed " them red-headed chaps,'' the lovely woodpeckers {Pious erythroccphalus), whose hammer- ing reverberated to a degree somewhat difficult to believe the cause could produce. The gaudy crest of this bird is said to prove an irresistible bait to the muskolonge, a much esteemed fish of the pike species. When at Kingston, my landlord called me one morning to the yard, to examine a very fine one, just brought in by an Indian. It weighed about 25 lb., and had been speared in five feet of water. It is a voracious fish, and the captor had a severe bite on his hand, received in securing his prize. But to re- turn. — The surface of the country was often finely undulated, with copious springs, numerous rivulets, and romantic dells; and the limestone rock, under the most fantastic forms, was thickly covered witlx A FOREST RIDE. 121 the rock-fern, lichens, and an endless variety of luxu- riant vegetation. The undergrowth, or shrubbery, consists of sassafras, with a bud in taste resembling a custard, the dogwood, hazel, blackberry, straw- berry, and many others, both elegant and useful. Occasionally the squirrel would shoot across our path, and perched upon some lofty branch, peer down at the intruders. The black variety was new to me ; it is a beautiful creature, and of considerable size. This agreeable state of matters, however, was soon destined to suffer a reverse. A long, straight and dreary looking avenue presented itself in per- spective, which proved to be a cordtiroy passage, across an extensive swamp. Without a moment's hesitation, my gallant steed stepped upon the round loose logs, and as he seemed to eye his difficulties %vith infinite good sense and caution, I left him to pick his way as he deemed best. Ere long, hoo'ever, it became too much for my faith, great even as it was. The logs were in many places rotten, and what Chai'ley designated " only a mud-hole, sir" re- curred so often, that in prudence I placed the boy in front. I cannot say that I gained much by this ar- rangement, as, however startling it might be to feel myself getting engulfed — the flounders of my leader, dashing on perfectly unconcerned, through thick and thin, were even worse to witness. I essayed to walk, but that would not do. The logs were slip- pery, and in his bounds, my nag went so near to up- set me, that I was fain to remount. At length terra firma was regained, and my confidence mightily 122 A FOREST RIDK. strengtlicned in tlie g-ood beast tliat bore me. At one iuvkward moment, the raft, as I may term it, gave way, and down we went, stern foremost, but one leg fortnnately embracing the log in front, the poor fellow clnng to it, and fairly managed to em(!rge, ere I could make up my mind on the best chance to escape. About noon we came to an Irishman's cabin, which stood for the half-way house to Guelpli. My first inquiry was, " Have you any corn ?" — " No, Sir," to my dismay, was the reply ; " but we have plenty of oats ;" corn in this country being always understood to designate maize. Our horses were forthwith put und«!r cover, and Charley proceeded to make them comfortable, while I entered the shanty, and had a cliat with the dame. Her husband had lately settled here ; she said he was in- dustrious, and getting on very well ; they bad some fine healthy children, and, thongli still poor, every thing was clean, and Avithout any symptoms of po- verty or distress. I sauntered about the forest, amused witli storing specimens of the many flowers which here, in native beauty, have been indeed — " born to blush unseen, And waste their fragriince on the desert air" — until our cavalry had refreshed, when we resumed our progress. Several clearings have been eflFected in this quarter, and a good many settlers established. I was struck with the conspicuous activity and in- dustry of a Negro family. Numbers of these poor creatures, as opportunity favours, are ever watching to escape from bondage in the Slave States of the A FOREST RIDE. 123 Union, and are to be met with in various parts of Canada. It has been alleged that the Negro will prove too indolent for labour, in a state of freedom ; — a remark which, without stopping to prove unphi- losophical, and at variance with every principle of human nature, Avas here most signally contradicted. The same remark applies to several other farms, no- ticed even in my limited excursion ; and the one in question exhibited a set of as busy and happy dingy faces as a philanthropist could wish to look on ; while the appearance of the farm spoke to the steady la- bour which had been employed ; and the barn (the test of a tliriving colonist) was decidedly the hand- somest and largest that I passed. The crops of wheat and clover promised the utmost luxuriance, and afforded the most satisfactory earnest of wliat the forest will yield when brought into cultivation. It went to my heart to see the noble trees blazing away as worthless weeds ; but it must for the present continue to be the principal mode of disposing of them, when at any considerable distance from a ri- ver or a lake. We passed a party of three men, having a small cart and team of six oxen, returning from Nelson. The trip had occupied them three days, and the state of the road may be pretty well estimated, from such an expenditure of time and liv- ing labour upon a journey of twenty or thirty miles. Our own progress was tardy enough, and from time to time we encountered more of the vile swamps, but still we managed to get througli without mishap. At one gap in the forest, I witnessed, with feelings 124 A FOREST BIDE. of siirprise not iiTimingled with awe, the eiFects of what is here called " a windfall,'' or a hurricane in the woods. Trees of enormous bulk lay smashed like reeds, and a portion of the forest was laid bare, as though a thousand hatchets had been at work. I reckoned it to have been of recent occurrence, as the road was in some places much encimibered by fallen trees, and, in addition to the bog-holes below, it required some good steering to escape being siis. per coll. above. The day, which had hitherto been extremely pleasant, began to overcast, and was fol- lowed by a drizzling rain. H<aving full confidence, however, in soon reaching Guelph, this gave rae lit- tle uneasiness — nor was I particularly concerned up- on coming to the alternative of two roads. When Charley, liowever, to whom I applied for counsel, coolly admitted that he had never been beyond the half-way hut, the matter assumed a more serious aspect. Neither farm nor farmer was to be seen — and after the usual quantum of discussion, we hit upon the usual happy selection of tlie wrong track. Where our travels might have ended I know not ; but fortunately after making some progress in our dubious course, a house was descried, where we re- ceived tlie satisfactory assurance, that we were leav- ing Guelph as fast as we could. There remained nothing for it, then, but to retrace our steps, thank- ful at so early a correction of our mistake — and af- ter a wet, perplexing, and rather hap-hazard ride — finally got sight of the city about three o'clock. ( J25 ) CHAPTER XI. Town of Guelph — Visit to Gait Farm — Equestrian Excursion to Brandtford and Hamilton — Interview with a Scotch Borderer — M ohawk Village. It was necessary to cross the river Speed before getting into our quarters, and as there appeared to be only the skeleton of a new bridge, without any symptoms of a ford, we were somewhat at fault, when a party emerged from the forest : one of whom proved to be Mr P , an agent of the Canada Company. By his direction, we made a detour to the old bridge, as rickety and crazy an article as can be well imagined. Our circumstances, however, ad- mitting of no delay, we led the horses across, not without hazard to their limbs and our own, and soon got safely housed in Mr Oliver's tavern. Our land- lord proved to be a sensible civil personage, and although his accommodations were somewhat home- ly, the essentials were good, and cleanliness and civility compensated for what else might he amiss. Mr P received me in his parlour, and we were speedily provided with a snug dinner, which con- tained, to my delight, a fry of delicate pink-fleshed trouts, similar to the produce of some of our High- land lakes, and which the Speed supplies in great 126 TOWN OP GUELPH. abundance, affording excellent sport to the angler. In the afternoon I walked out with my host, whom I found possessed of a spice of humour. lie con- ducted me through a capital grist-mill, erected by the Company ; the dues exacted at which, for grain manufactured, amount to one-twelfth of the produce in flour. The town appeared at this time rather stagnant. " There stands the bank (says Oliver) which never stopped, seeing that it never started ; and that fine affair of a market-place will be six months together without a joint." The situation and soil of Guelph are healthy and good ; the town standing u|)on a fine platform, Avith the river sweeping round it, and enjoying the sine qua non of an abundant supply of copious springs. There is a very commodious log mansion-house, named the Priory, at present empty. It contains good family accommodation, with some handsome apartments ; and, being sweetly placed upon the banks of the river, is capable of being made a pleas- ing abode. Upon a sloping bank, exactly opposite, a good fai'm has been imi)roved, and adds comfort to the landscape — while the forest in wild magnificence, skirts the rising grounds which environ the settle- ment. I left Guelph the following forenoon, in my land- lord's light waggon, he himself undertaking to con- vey me to Gait, the residence of Mr D , who I knew was expecting me about this time. The dis- tance was about twenty miles, for which I paid tAvo dollars, or 10s. English. My host proved a most WATERLOO TOWNSHIP. 127 intelligent and amusing- companion. We found the road, upon the wliole, very tolerable ; that is to say, I never was required to dismount, for we were cer- tainly not altogether exempt from a little corduroy^ or floundering in a mud-hole. We passed through several good-looking farms, in various stages of pro- gress, all of which were evidently labouring under a deficiency of capital, to stock and improve them. Another industrious and prosperous Negro was lo- cated on the wayside. He had invented a useful implement, which Oliver denominated a Hoe-plough. I did not see it, but presume it to have belonged to the numerous family of Grubbers. Chopping, or clearing land of the timber, is readi- ly contracted for here at 12 dollars, or £3 Sterling, per acre. It is then in a condition to be sown, which is generally done at the rate of one bushel, or a lit- tle more, of wheat per acre ; and the return which may be looked for is from fifteen to twenty-five. Limestone abounds everywhere, but has been hither- to little employed as a manure, though its effects up- on a soil so rich in vegetable matter may be readily estimated. The morning had been wet and dull, but the sun broke forth as we entered the Waterloo district. The soil appeared here to be a dry friable loam, the timber heavy, and of approved varieties, such as elm, oak, maple, &c. Springs and brooks were to be seen in abundance, and in many farms, leisure had been found to grub out the black stumps, so offensive to the eye of an old country farmer. The live-stock, 128 VISIT TO GALT FARM. too, evinced, by their size and condition, superior ma- nagement and food. The d\veUing--houses, barns, stables, and orchards, I may add, were all in charac- ter. Oliver valued the improved farms at twenty- five dollars, or six guineas per acre. The farmers are for the most part Dutch, a truly primitive, fru- gal race. Never shall I forget the venerable patri- archal aspect of an old man whom we met in the fo- rest, with a beard of driven snow flowing to his gir- dle, and driving a team of superb bays in his wag- gon. This district has been settled about twenty years, and the farmers reaped some glorious har- vests, when Guelph was forcing forward, by contract- ing for provisions, carriages, &c. After a very plesisant ride, we came, rather sud- denly, at an opening in the forest, upon the Ouse, or Grand River, where it made a beautiful sweep, and a fine appearance. A little farther down, some straggling houses and extensive mills announced our arrival at Gait. A wooden bridge led us to a com- modious stone-building, in the cottage style, the re- sidence of Mr D , delightfully placed upon a ri- sing ground, and commanding fine views of the ri- ver. I found with Mr D a kind and cordial welcome, and enjoyed the comforts of such a family not a little, after the somewhat rough work of the last two days. Mr D is a very extensive land- owner, having purchased a large township, which he named Dumfries, and, in the present full tide of emi- gration, I doubt not that it will rapidly fill up. The system of dealing with settlers here is particularly VISIT TO GALT FARM. 129 favourable for those who are compelled to rely chief- ly upon their personal labour. Mr D opens an account with each individual, receiving instalments in money or produce, and frequently, where charac- ter warrants such confidence, even supplying the means of purchasing oxen, implements, or seed. At an early period of the settlement he formed a con- nexion with Mr S , an intelligent, enterprizing American, who devotes his attention principally to the mills, where he carries forward an extensive con- cern in the various departments of flour and saw mills, with a cooperage similar to the one at Guana- noque, and from which he turns out uncommonly neat and reasonable articles. A son of Mr D resides with him, giving his aid in the general ma- nagement, and was at this time just returned from an experimental voyage, in company with Mr S , by which the important fact was ascertained, that the Ouse affords a safe communication with the Wel- land Canal, a distance by water of 100 miles. A barrel of flour, which now costs 3s. to reach Ontario, will thus be conveyed for 1 s. and all other produce, of course, in like proportion, — a difi"erence of incal- culable value to the district. Mr D — — has a very neat garden tastefully laid out behind his mansion, and adjoining to it a large extent of improved land. The rocks at the river side are of limestone, which in fact forms the sub- stratum of the whole, or most part, of Upper Ca- nada. As my time would not admit of a long sojourn, I 130 KQUESTRIAN EXCURSION. where I should otliervvise have enjoyed myself so much, Mr D kindly offered me his horses ; and his son, though still an invalid from cold caught in his aquatic excursion, insisted upon accompanying me to Hamilton, where I would again rejoin the liigli road to Niagara. Saturday, May 15. — We had a white frost this morning, followed by a beautiful day. Breakfast being over, we started for Brandtford, a village about twenty miles off, chiefly belonging to the Indians. I was mounted upon a capital steady mare, Mr D.'s own pad; his son rode an uncommonly clever, active hackney ; and our baggage and sumpter-steed was bestrode by Simon Mackenzie, a Yankee Celt, a very civil fellow, but of a species (I was told) generally the most untoward of all domestic animals. Our ride along the river side was delightful, and the scenery fine, farms and forest in alternate succession. A few miles below Gait, we turned off to examine two properties then on sale : they were contiguous to each other, and appeai'ed to consist of good use- ful land, well-watered by copious springs, on a lime- stone bottom. The situation was extremely plea- sant, extending in front down to the river, and in- tersected by the public road. Each farm contained about 200 acres, of which nearly one-lialf was im- proved and fenced, with tolerable houses, and the remainder in useful timber of various kinds. The price demanded was 40s. per acre. Returning to our route, we entered upon an ex- tensive range of open, grove-like woodland, princi- EQUESTRIAN EXCURSION. 131 pally oak, and the trees so dispersed as not to inter- fere materially with the operations of the plough. It had much of the appearance of some of the wild- est parts of English park-scenery. An old Indian path conducted us to a commanding point overhang- ing the river, where we fovmd a cool spring gushing from the bank, amidst shrubbery and undergrowth. A small and verdant knoll marked the spot where grand councils were wont to be held in olden times, and where the calumet of peace has, no doubt, been often smoked, or the tomahawks sharpened for war. It was a lovely landscape, with a greater range open to the eye than usually occurs in the interior of Ca- nada. Here we seated ourselves, enjoying the con- tents of Simon's wallet and the spi'ing, with due qua- lification, while our horses had a little rest in the heat of the day. Adjoining to this spot lived a young Scotch settler, who had recently purchased a lot of 100 acres from Mr D. He had already got a very snug shanty erected, and was labouring away with his oxen, blythe and cheerful, at a good hazel- coloured sandy loam. Recognising at once, by his dialect, from what part of Scotland he had come, I inquired if he knew a particular friend of my own on the Borders, and the poor fellow's ecstasy was most amusing when he exclaimed that his own fa- ther was a tenant upon my friend's estate. " Fm sure" says he, " hell no hae forgot Walter Smith ; but tell him you met the poacher, and hell be sure to mind me.'' I of course hinted a suspicion that some mis- hap attending that lawless character had accelerated i2 132 CI-DEVANT SCOTCH POACHER. his movements across the Atlantic, which, however, proved not to be the case. " At all events," I re- marked, " you neither need certificate nor qualifica- tion here: what do you principally shoot ?' " In- deed," says he," if you'll believe me, Sir, 1 scar<;e ever think about \i,for there's naehody here seeks to hinder us ;" a remarkable answer, and not without its use in forming a clew to the fiiscinations and excitement of a smuggler's or a poacher's life. A herd of deer only two days before, had wandered past him, yet Walter felt no inclination to leave the plough, al- though his rifle stood loaded in the shanty. He will have thirty acres ready for wheat, to sow in autumn, which, if he continues steady and indus- trious, will make his way to independence clear enough, as he paid down at entry the full price of his land. " You want only a wife now," I observed, " to make you complete." " Yes, Sir; but I'll have her from Auld Scotland, ybr these Yankee lasses are good for nmif/ht ; they'll hlaw the horn and tak a man frae the pleugh to fetch them a sheet o water." Ungallant as this speech may appear, it is neverthe- less true, that American females almost exclusively confine their attention to duties within doors. No- thing can be more clean, tidy, and comfortable than their domestic arrangements, but they are seldom, indeed, expected to extend their services ; and the surprise and incredulity of many a farmer in the States was unspeakable, when I told them of wo- men in the old covnli-y, of all ages, being regularly EQUESTRIAN EXCURSION, 133 seen at work in a turnip-field, or engaged in filling a dung-cart. There is a lovely sheet of water here, called the Blue Lake, indented by finely wooded headlands ; and, as I sat admiring it, I could not but set it down as a splendid feature in park or lawn scenery, when some demesne or villa shall be here laid out by the hand and the eye of taste. A little further down the river side, we passed a valuable gypsum quarry, probably formed by vitriolic springs acting upon the calcareous subsoil. It is extensively used, and the deep verdure of the waggon-track, from what had been scattered, spoke distinctly to its value as a top- dressing. At a new settlement, named Paris, the property of Mr Capron, we crossed the river by an excellent bridge. The situation of Paris, I think, promises success ; and Mr C. appears to avail him- self of its natural advantages. Extensive grist-mills are at work, and also one for preparing gypsum, all upon a good mill-stream, which here joins the Ouse. Several new buildings were in progress, and a post- office is expected to be soon established. Upon the same side of the river as Paris, I had observed, as we rode along, many situations and farms apparent- ly very desirable. Since my visit, Mr B., from Scotland, has pur- chased one of these from Mr D. ; it contained 200 acres, one-half of which has been lately cleared, and the remainder is in heavy timber. There was a capi- tal house and a large barn upon the property. The price of the whole was £300. It is a beautiful si- tuation about two miles above Paris ; and a friend of 134 aiOHAWK VILLAGE. mine, who saw Mr B. in September, was assured by him that it had answered all his expectations, and that he would not take £ 700 then for the purchase. From Paris, where the river makes some beauti- ful sweeps, we continued our ride through what is called an Indian reserve. A large tract of land here and around Brandtford belongs to the Mohawks, and is managed by government in concert with their own chiefs, for behoof of the tribe. The village is named after John Brandt, a celebrated chief. We found it, on our arrival, swarming with Indians, as a sale of village lots had taken place that morning, and high prices having been obtained (even at the rate of £100 per acre), merrymaking and rejoicing concluded the day. We spent the evening quietly and pleasantly in a private family, but found our quarters in the tavern somewhat noisy. My bed- room was snug and clean, but a joyous ball in the apartment below, with a noble frog-concert outside, afforded me but little benefit from its comforts. Brandtford appeared to me a pleasant situation. The river winds finely past the platform on which it stands, and, upon the opposite side, are extensive holms not unlike the banks of the Earn in Scotland, or of the Eden at Carlisle. Of these, a great part belongs to the Indians, and will, probably for a long time, remain unimproved*. Occasionally there are farms to be had, and I should consider a purchase here as likely to prove a good investment. I have received the particulars of an estate which was for • I have lately heard that these lands are about to come in- to the market. MOHAWK VILLAGE. 135 sale last summer, from a friend who looked at it. It is upon the west side of the Ouse, exactly oppo- site to Brandtford, and contains 600 acres, eighty of which are alluvial bottom land. It enjoys a valuable water-power, capable of being- turned to account in various ways : the price asked was 3500 dollars, or £875. An American gentleman, who was inquiring after it, expected to buy it for £ 750. About two miles from Brandtford, an Indian village has been established under the charge of Mr L., a clergyman of the Church of England, sent out by the Society for Propagating the Gospel. Next day being Sun- day, we resolved to make a small detour, and attend worship in their church. The institution embraces both spiritual and secular objects. They have a Mechanics' School, where instruction is given in handicraft trades, and many, by steady progress in acquiring knowledge, and in managing their farms, afford sufficient evidence of their capacity to be weaned from the dissolute habits, of the most disso- lute of all human beings, a half-reclaimed savage. Too many, however, of these poor creatures still roam about, ignorant and idle, seldom indeed injur- ing others, save in a moment of phrenzied intoxica- tion, but utterly useless and unprofitable to the com- munity and to themselves. We were favoured with another lovely day, and had a sweet ride to the Mohawk village. Mr R., who is settled in Brandtford, rode along with us, mounted upon a clever little Indian horse, of a breed which they have kept always pure and distinct. In 13fi MOHAWK VILLAGE — SUNDAY- shape, size, and action, he reminded me strongly of the Cossack. Mr R. had paid about £12 for him, then four years old. He also spoke much of a pony which he hjid lately purchased from the Indians, of a breed also retained separate, and for which he had given seven guineas. We found, upon our arrival, the Sunday school at work, and it appeared to be conducted in an orderly and becoming manner. Ig- norance of the language precluded any further re- niai-ks. The church is a neat, small building, in which the male and female portions of the congre- gation occupy respective divisions. The clergyman required the aid of an interpreter in the reading- desk and pulpit. No hearers could be more atten- tive or devout than these cliildren of the forest. The old men, with their milk-white heads and placid dignified copper countenances, would have made ad- mirable portraits, and all appeared to join earnestly in the liturgy, and to listen with deep attention to a plain, suitable discouz'se, upon the faith of Abraham, in offering his son, and the assurance which all Chris- tians may entertain, that in His all-wise and all-right- eous way, the Lord will provide for his people in every emergency, whether of a spiritual or temporal tiature. Many of the women possess remarkably amiable expressions ; and the little ones, neatly swaddled up into the shape of a Bologna sausage, were the fun- niest, comical-looking bodies imaginable. It is com- mon to have a flat board, to which tlie little animal is strapped, and by which it can, at any time, b^ MOHAWK VILLAGE. 13^' safely hung up and put out of tlie way. After ser- vice, I was introduced to two of the chief men, who gave me their hands in a stately and somewhat con- descending mannei-, saying at the same time, "Wel- come, Scotsman." They were all well clothed, though the fashions were certainly somewhat gro- tesque. The head gear of many, especially of the boys, exhibited a close affinity to oriental costume. It is impossible not to feel a deep interest in the Aborigines of this vast continent. As yet, (compa- ratively speaking,) nothing has been done, nor any equivalent return made, for what we have acquired from them. Probably this is not the fair criterion to assume, but unquestionably we are called upon to make strenuous efforts towards instructing and ame- liorating the condition of this race. Many a noble quality do they possess, and too many of their vices, I am afraid, must, in candour, be placed to our ac- count. Self-possession, that useful ingredient of character, shines conspicuous in their demeanour. Place him where you will, the red man is never put out. A friend related to me, having once met an Indian chief at a European party, where, to his cer- tain knowledge, every article and every arrange- ment were absolutely new. To their amusement and astonishment, not the slightest indication of sur- prise or of awkwardness appeared. Every move- ment seemed to come natural and easy. The eye, to be sure, was unceasingly at woi-k, taking sharp cognizance of all that passed, but he drank wine, handled his knife and fork, and performed the vari- 138 MOHAWK VILLAGE. ous courtesies of a dinner table, witlioiit either bash- fulness or blunder. The AEohawk village stands up- on a fine point, round which the river flows. Seve- ral of the people are beginning to settle upon farms, and, in some of these, the husbandry is tolerably re- spectable, but many are yet content to draw a pre- carious subsistence from the river or the rifle. The Mohawks are the most advanced Indians in this quarter; the Cayugas, of whom we passed several groups to-day, are evidently in a far more degraded condition. We now prosecuted our journey through wild forest land, Avith well-improved tracts occasionally intervening. I was greatly pleased with the neigh- bourhood of Ancaster, a straggling village, without any mill-stream, but placed on high ground, in a healthy, open delightful situation, having a well im- proved country around, many pleasant farms and orchards, and abundance of fine water for domestic use. When inspecting a liouse near the road, I re- cognised the faces of some of the Somersetshire paupers, who had been my fellow-passengers from Quebec, and who were to be turned adrift at Mon- treal. Our time admitted of little colloquy, but I soon learned that the party was dispersed, with small prospect of friends meeting again. Some had found engagements, while others, like this detachment, were wandering about in search of it. The poor fellows were so contented and cheerftd, that they excited our pity, and renewed my regret that no pre- vious arrangements had been made for their employ- TOWN OF HAMILTON. 139 ment or location. A few miles below Ancaster, we found ourselves on the brow of a bold and rocky hill, covered with wood, from which there is one of the finest prospects which Canada aflFords. The hill forms part of the remarkable ridge already men- tioned, as connecting the State of New York with Canada ; and we were now to descend from it to the town of Hamilton, situate upon a rich and exten- sive plain, in all probability once covered by the wa- ters of Ontario. The lake stretched out its noble expanse, and the softened tints of a lovely evening gave infinite beauty and variety to the landscape. Hamilton is a new town, regularly laid out, with a very handsome court-house, erected for the district. This is a stage upon the high road, round Burling- ton Bay, and connecting York with Queenston. It possesses no particular advantages for trade, but seems likely enough to increase as a market-town, in a rich and improving part of the country. Upon reaching the tavern, we found the coach by which I was to proceed nearly ready to start, and to travel all night. This was not exactly the arrangement which I could have desired, feeling more disposed for a good bed than for such repose as I was likely to find in the stage, besides having to pass through a fine country in the dark. Having mentioned my disappointment to the stage-owner, and to the pas- sengers, they agreed, in the most obliging manner, to defer the journey until an early hour of the fol- lovring morning ; and, having got tea, accompanied 140 TOWN OF HAMILTON. by an excellent beef-steak, we retired to rest. I should mention that luy lug-gage, of which the bulk had been sent forwai-d from Summer's tavern, ad- dressed to the postmaster of Hamilton, was now safely handed over to me, without a slulling being charged for its conveyance. ( 1^1 ) CHAPTER XII. Journey from Hamilton to Grimsby and St Catharine's — Re- turn to Niagara — American Fall — Goat Island — Leaping the Fall — A Canadian Spring Day. Monday \^th. — I sauntered early to the skirts ot the village, while the coach was preparing-, and witnessed a brilliant sunrise. Ontario fully sus- tsiined a comparison with the ocean, in giving ef- fect to a sight, so magnificent and yet so little re- garded. We have it always at our command, and therefore disregard it ; but who that occasionally witnesses it, does not marvel at his own sloth, in so rarely partaking of the enjoyment ? The romantic limestone ridge, covered with fine wood, and the thrush, straining his throat from the peach and apple trees loaded with blossom, with the tinkling bells of the village cows, as they went forth to pasture, formed altogether a refreshing commencement of a delightful day. We made Grimsby to breakfast, a distance of eighteen miles. The country was in many places romantic and beautiful, with fine farms and rich orchards of peach, plum, cherry, apple, &c. affording the most luxuriant promise. The wheat was remarkably fine, and the oat-braird looked fresh and well. The soil in general appeared to be clay. The road was tolerably good, and was bounded on 142 TOAVN OF GRIMSBY. the west by the wooded ridge, with Ontario at a short distance on the east. Grimsby is a sweet lit- tle town near (perhaps too near) the margin of the lake, and nestling under the brow of the ridge, from whence issues a fine mill-stream, converted of course to good use. Our next stage was St Catharine's, a town upon the summit-level of tlie Welland Canal, wliicli at this point descends by wooden locks to the level of tlie lake. Here 1 encountered my friend Dr D upon his voyage to Goderich, upon Lake Huron. The canal is barely ready, and I believe the Doctor's scliooner is one of the first vessels which has passed. From this place to Queenston, the country is, for the most part, under culture, and capable, 1 should think, in many places of being turned to good account, by laying it properly down to pasture. The rye was in ear, and the orchards still numerous and rich. When I got to Queenston, and expressed an ur- gent desire to get forward, the landlord begged that I would entrust my luggage to him, to be sent for- ward on the following morning, and walk up the hill to the coach which I saw waiting for some travellers, then visiting the monument of General Brock. That a public conveyance should make such a pause, ex- cited no surprise after what I had myself experien- ced at Hamilton ; and I lost no time in taking pos- session, no remark being made by the coachman. Presently three gentlemen and a little boy made their appearance, and I could discover that something re- ^Huired explanation, which proved to be that I had AMERICAN FALL. 143 deposited myself sans ceremonie in their private car- riage or extra. I found tliem, however, uncommonly civil, and they would on no account allow me to re- move. The hardship, after all, would not have been very great, as it was but a pleasant walk of seven miles in a lovely evening to my home at the Falls. I have said my home, and, truly, the easy hospitality of my friends rendered it so in every respect. We had a clear moon to-night, and Niagara presented to me its beauties in a new and most interesting garb. I have already declared against lengthy or formal descriptions ; and as to impressions, I have only to say that the scene interested me far more vividly upon i-enewing my acquaintance, than even upon my first introduction. Tuesday \lth. — Another lovely day. I proceeded, after breakfast to the Ferry, for the purpose of visit- ing the American fall. The ferryman's wife told me that, on the day when I was formerly there, her husband was prevented by the ice from returning until a late hour, and only then got across, by catch- ing a casual opening in the shoals. Next morning the accumulation above the Falls gave way, and came down with such a crash that " she really thought the world was at an end." I was soon and safely put across, but a man does feel somewhat queer, when he contemplates the roaring cataract above, distilling its dews, copious and heavy as a Scotch mist, the ugly ripple on the water, and the cockle-shell boat bobbing and dancing like an angler's float. In fact, however, there is little or no danger, 144 GOAT ISLAND. and an accident I believe to be altogether unknown. The whole scene, when viewed about halfway across, is indeed sublime, and certainly not to be described. Upon reaching the American shore, a convenient and safe woodc^n stair enables the traveller to reach the top (»f the precipice. When about half-way up, he will find himself brought into almost appalling contact with the American fall. It is more confined than the British, but the body of water is absolutely confounding to look at. The village of Manchester is at a short distance, with good hotels, and various mills at Avork. A remarkable bridge, immediately above the Fall, communicates with Goat Island, on part of which is a paper-mill, the whole belonging to General Porter. The bridge, for which a snudl pont- age is exacted, must have been an awkward affair to construct, but has proved itself perfectly safe and secure. The piers were obtained by sinking coffers, and filling these with massy blocks of stone. The museum and paper-mill are both worthy of inspec- tion. At the latter, fancy sheets are to be had, as memorii\ls of a visit. Goat Island is a lovely spot, covered with lofty timber, and enamelled with na- tive flowers. General Porter, I understand, has thoughts of laying it out as a residence, and a most delightful one it will be, for river scenery, certainly unrivalled. Paths are formed in various directions, of which one terminates at tlie verge of the great Horse- shoe Fall. A slender platform or pier projects for a consideral)le distance into the stream, from the ex- tremity of which your eye rests on the dread abyss. It is a fearful gnlf, and required all the head I could LEAPING THE FALL. 145 muster to look down upon it. Indeed, had not my courag-e been strengthened by observing two carpen- ters at work on the farther extremity, I verily be- lieve that I should scarce have ventured. A short way below, and still upon the island, is the spot where Sam Patch, of noted folly, amused the public by leaping from a ladder, as it was said, down the Fall of Niagara. Now, there can be no manner of doubt, that Sam took a most respectable jump, but still it had little to do with the Fall. It was in fact a plunge into the boiling cauldron, and a lad of fourteen, son of the American ferryman, thought fit, not long since, as the father informed me, and without his knowledge, to perform the same somerset, merely for his own recreation. This young Triton, upon my return to-day, presented himself to ferry me back ; and it was my lack of faith in his powers at the oar which elicited the ac- count of this feat, with the additional assurance that a younger brother and he frequently swam the ferry, to and fro. This, however, being rather more like- ly to benefit himself than his cargo, I preferred put- ting myself into the hands of the elder Charon. I remained for some hours upon the island, and, befoi'e leaving it, witnessed the prismatic colours flitting and changing, in endless variety, over the fall. * * Had Byron visited Niagara, in what strains would his muse have sung, when, in praise of Terni, he describes in those beau- tiful lines, how " An Iris sits, amidst the infernal surge Like Hope upon a deathbed, and unworn K 146 A CANADIAN SPRING DAY. Tlie title of horse-shoe is becoming every year less appropriate, from the detrition of the rock ; and Mr C directed my attention to a stone placed, not many years ago, as a test, which palpably ilhistrates the fact. This has been a day of infinite enjoyment, and the close of it not a little enlivened by Dr D , who arrived to dinner, with a budget fidl of anecdote and fun. He found the canal rather te- dious, and ordered his schooner to rendezvous at Buffalo. Wednesday, \Qth May. — Vs'g had some warm showers this morning, which have imparted a de- lightful freshness to the air, and perfumed it with the fragrant odours of the peach and other fruit- trees. Vegetation is rushing forward with all that rapidity which distinguishes a Canadian spring. The gaudy little humming-birds have been seen flutter- ing about the garden ; the grapes, quinces, currants, <S:c. are well formed, and every thing around is in beauty. Dr D and 1 had a charming ramble down the river side to the Whirlpool, a wild and tremendous scene of confusion. It is occasioned chiefly by an island, which obstructs the current, and accumulates logs and drift-wood, about four miles below the Falls. The precipitous rocks on each side, thickly wooded, with the thundering noise Its steady dyes, while all around is torn By the distracted waters, hears serene Its Ijrilliant liues, witli all its beams unshorn, Resembling, 'mid the torture of the scene, Love watcliiiig Madness, with unalterable mien." A CANADIAN SPRING DAY. 147 of the inclignaiit stream, form a compound of the sub- lime and beautiful rarely equalled. We wandered over many lovely spots, where, peradventure, the man of taste may, at some future day, be led to com- bine the beauties of nature and of art, and when that hour shall arrive, a truly enviable field awaits liim upon the banks of the Niagara. Our walk led us over a part of the battle-ground at Lundyslaw, where American and British blood profusely flowed, and a spot was pointed out, where intelligence was wont to be conveyed to the British, from the Ame- rican side of the river, by aid of the bow-string. Our Canadian settlers fought with unbounded gal- lantry and devotion during that unfortunate period, and sustained severe and very heavy losses of pro- perty, besides the blood so freely shed in the cause. What might be the issue of another dispute, (which may God avert), is hard to say ; state affairs are not for me to handle ; but this is certain, that while the American citizens have been reimbursed, the Canadians have failed in obtaining the slightest compensation, and such a contrast acting upon hu- man nature, is too palpable in its effects to require illustration. We may reasonably assume, that it will operate unfavourably, while another cause is silently bearing on the same point. The Yankee who was my guide at Kingston to the Rideau Canal, among various questions, asked me if I thought an- other war likely to occur. I said with truth, tliat I trusted such an event was far off ; to whicli he an- swered, " Well, Sir, I guess, if we don't fight for a k2 148 A CANADIAN SPRING DAY. year or two, we won't figlit at all, for we are marry- ing so fast, Sir, that a man M'on't be sure but he may shoot his fatlier or his brother-in-law." The day proved extremely hot for its early date in the kalondar, and I was glad to adopt Jonathan's plan, of strutting along with my coat on my arm in place of my back. Thirst, too, had its triumph, and I scarce recollect of any thing more welcome, than a beverage with which my companion regaled me at Forsyth's, under some odd name, but ^A•hich consist- ed of a bottle of good brown stout, turned into a quart of well iced water, with a quant, stiff, of gin- ger, cinnamon, and sugar ; truly it was a prescrip- tion worthy of being filed. From the roof of For- syth's hotel there is a fine panoramic view of the Falls, well Avorthy of a visit, and where I lingered, with many a feeling of regret that I was so soon to take my departure. If any man has really expe- rienced disappointment in visiting Niagara, I must commend him to the quaint, though somewhat na- tional remark of an Irishman, addressed to such fas- tidious travellers, that " unless they had really ex- pected to see a river falling vp, he can't tell what they have to grumble at." I parted from my friends on the following day, with a grateful sense of all their kindness, and of the special good fortune M'hich had attended me in re- gard to weather, &c. The Buffalo stage called for me about three o'clock, and with more unwillingness than I can well express, I bade adieu to Niagara *. • App. No. 5. ( 149 ) CHAPTER XIII. Visit to Buffalo — Hints to Emigrants as to the Choice of a Si- tuation in Canada — JMeans of Education — Prices of Live- stock, Implements, Produce, liabour. Furniture Our road lay along the river, which here varies from half a mile to a mile in hreadth. The country- is well cultivated and improved. A mill-stream falls in at Chippeway, where is a small fort, and was the scene of some hard fighting in the last war. Grand Island, belonging to the States, is a conspicuous ob- ject, partly settled; it contains, I believe, 17,000 acres. We left Canada at Black Rock, a small town on the American Bank, and which once formed the basin or commencement of the Grand Canal. Na- ture, however, strongly designates Buffalo as the entrepot for the lake and canal commerce, and there it will undoubtedly centre. Black Rock was sur- prized by the British in 1814, and considerable da- mage done. We crossed by a ferry-boat, leaving the coach at Waterloo, a paltry village on the Ca- nada shore, not far from the ruins of Fort Erie. When across, we experienced some little inconve- nience in getting ashore, owing to certain canal ope- rations. In general, the arrangements for travellers are most complete ; but here I felt rather at a loss, J-jO VISIT TO BUFFALO. as no car appeared to convey onr Inggage to where the coach awaited us in the town, at some distance. In this dilemma, a respectable looking man wlio had crossed with us, addressed nie Avith, " I guess, Sir, I must give you a lift," and, before I could answer, shouldered my portmanteau, which was of a size and weight that had often made me asliamed to father it, while keeping a paternal eye upon its movements, and off he marched for the town, I bringing up the rear with my sac-de-nuit, &c. [laving seen my lug- gage safely deposited in the boot, a doubt arose how to deal with my kind friend, nor could I divest my- self of an oldcountry feeling, that a gratuity was fair- ly earned and expected. I at once discovered, how- ever, that I was in the wrong box. It was an act of pure disinterested kindness to a stranger, whom he saw in a difficulty ; and I record it with the greater pleasure, because, from other occurrences of a like nature, I feel warranted, in my own experience, to deny the rude and selfish habits ascribed to the Ame- ricans, and to testify their obliging and accommoda- ting disposition. A short drive of two miles brought us to Buffalo, where we found capital quarters with Mr Harrinian at the Eagle. The town was particu- larly crowded at tliis season, always a busy one, and increased to-day from the formation of a favourite new bank. The Eagle had its full complement of guests, and the landlord, without any remark from me, most courteously apologized for not having a single-bedded room to offer me. This matter, which should not be of great moment to a traveller, in a HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 151 case of necessity, was still less so at present, as, in place of a stranger, I had my friend Dr D to occupy the chamber along with me. And now when about to leave Canada, T am anxi- ous to offer a few remarks of a miscellaneous nature, which have either been omitted, or which would have been misplaced, in the previous pages. Few things will puzzle an emigrant more than the choice of a situation ; and the contradictory statements which selfish motives will present to him, require his utmost prudence and caution to sift. In general, he ought to be in no hurry. If he can aiford to board with a respectable family for some months, I am confident that his time and money will be well re- paid, by the knowledge and experience which may be thus acquired. Besides the parts of the country I have touched upon, there are many others at least equally suitable. The Sandwich, Amherst, and Maiden districts are very desirable, and being far west, few comparatively think of visiting them. Tlie climate is equal to any part of the province. There is a daily line of steamers from Buffalo to Detroit River, on which they lie ; and my Queen- ston friend ]\Ir H. writes me that he is to launch a steamer this season, to run from Chippeway to Sand- wich. The style of farming is bad, the settlers be- ing mostly descended from French Canadians, and retaining all their unprofitable habits. The price asked for uncleared land is about 15s. or 20s. per acre ; and some of the old farms may be had reason- able enough. lo2 HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. The salubrity or uiiwliolesome nature of a climate is a matter of lii^li importance to the inhabitants, and still more so to those who encounter it as stran- gers. U|)i»i'r Canada may safely be pronounced a healthy climate. It is certainly subjected to g'reat- er extremes of heat and of cold than the maritime countiy of Britain, but, with ordinary attention, an equal poi'tiou of health and of longevity may be en- joyed in Canada as in any part of the globe. Win- ter in the Lower Province is always longer, and fre- quently more severe, than in the Upper, and in this consists any difference between them. But have we not heard of fever and .igue in every part of them both ? True — aguish attacks prevail here and in the States, even as they have done in our own boast- ed climate, within the recollection of thousands still alive. In a new country, while it is yet in a raw state, such things must for a time be expected ; but even the poor and hard worked emigrant has too of- ten his own folly and imprudence to thank for his sufferings. Reckless and foolhardy, he exposes his person to noxious vapours from the swampy borders of a lake, or to some sudden chill, when predisposed to fever from fatigue, or in a state of profuse per- spiration. Others, again, fall victims to intemper- ance, and the blame rests, most unjustly, witli the climate. There are two, or perhaps three, table- lands in Canada, which increase in salubrity as you rise above the level of tiie lakei:, and, of course, these are points to be kept in view when choosing a loca- tion. That a certain degree of miasma exists is ne- ""hints to emigrants. 153 vertlieless certain, because even infants carefully at- tended to, are occasionally subject to aguish attacks; but, in general, a reasonable attention to sobriety, cleanliness, and personal comfort, all prove preven- tives, and the disease is generally admitted to be on the decrease. In some seasons it breaks forth whole- sale, like epidemics in other parts of the world. Three years ago this occurred in the Upper Pro- vince. The season had been extremely hot and moist. The waters of Ontario, generally clear as crystal, cast up a slime in the month of July ; and towards autumn, fever and ague raged throughout the land. Quinine is, of course, known to be a so- vereign specific ; and for more ordinary practice, a tea-spoonful of sulphur in a wine-glass of brandy or other spirit, taken two or three times a-day, accom- panied by cathartics and moderate nourishing diet, with suitable clothing, generally effect a cure. There are three public matters which have occa- sioned some excitement in the Upper Provinces, and may be shortly adverted to. 1st, The oath of allegiance has been condemned for causing unreasonable and unnecessary discour- agement to settlers from the States. After having heard a good deal of discussion on both sides, from those who ought to be best informed upon the sub- ject, I believe the discouragement to be either ima- ginary or much exaggerated, and that, in fact, Ame- rican citizens are subjected to no heavier obligation than what every government is entitled to exact, and to which foreigners from other countries are equally liable. i:;4 OLD SURVEYS. 2d, The old surveys and plans by which townships were laid out, and sections divided, have been too often inaccurate, and have given rise to much confu- sion, and an interminable crop of litigation. I heard many details of trouble and expense to landowners from this source, and perhaps some revisal and ad- justment by commission, or otherwise, might be advis- able. In a work, which, with many faults, is pit)- bably the most valuable statistical record yet in print, upon Upper Canada (I allude to the work of Mr Gourlay), the defects of the towiiship sm'veys are clearly and judiciously pointed out. ]Mr Gourlay obsen^es, that " Such was the haste to get land given away, that ignorant and careless men were employed to measure it out, and such a mess did they make of their land-measuring, that one of the present sur- veyors informed me, that in ruiming new lines over a great extent of the Province, he found spare room for a xoliole townsh'qi in the midst of those laid out at an early period. It may be readily conceived, up- on consideration of this fact, what blundering has been committed, and what mistakes stand for cor- rection. Boundary lines in the wilderness are mark- ed by blazing, as it is termed, that is, chopping off with an axe a little bark from such trees as stand nearest to the line. Careless surveyors can be readily suj)posed to depart wide of the truth with this blazing ; <ind the measuring chains cannot run very straight, and their comp.iss needles, where these are called in aid, may be greatly diverted from the right direction by ferruginous substances. In CANALS. 155 short, numerous mistakes and errors have beeu made and discovered, much dispute has arisen thereon, and I have been tohl that infinite mischief is yet in store. It occurred to me, when in Canada, and it was one of the objects which, had a commission come home, I meant to have pressed upon the notice of Govern- ment, that a complete new survey and map of the province should be executed ; and, at the same time, a book, after the maimer of Doomsday Book, writ- ten out and published, setting forth all the original grants, and describing briefly, but correctly, all pro- perty, public and private." 3d, Great has been the obloquy heaped upon the canals, and in many particulars, perhaps, not with- out cause. At the same time, when all indirect con- sequences are taken into account, the evil and loss may not be so great as many would represent it. To draw inferences from the superior advantage of railways, I hold to be unfair, as the canals have been so long in progress, and the other can only be said to have secured public confidence since the cities of Manchester and Liverpool became as one. A ca- nal to unite Lake Erie with Ontario, so wonderfully separated by nature, and yet so important to conjoin, seems a reasonable object of mercantile enterprise to achieve. Whether it has been planned and executed in the best possible line and most economical man- ner, are questions separate and distinct; but it ought surely to be more a subject of regret than of con- tumely, if it is destined to be superseded by a rail- way from Chippeway to Queenston, — an important 156 MEANS OF EDUCATION. measure — wliicli, though checked for a season, there can be little doubt will be ultimately carried through, and must prove of the greatest advantage. The line has been surveyed, and the expense will not exceed £ 10,000 or £ 12,000. It is not unlikely that the Americans will construct either a canal or railway from Lockport to Ontario, connecting the Erie Ca- nal with the lake, and which must prove another heavy abduction of traffic from the Welland. The Rideau Canal is one so entirely in the hands of Go- vernment, that I shall leave it there without remark or discussion. Education is a subject which cannot fail to inte- rest emigrants, and it may be of importance for those of a higher class to know that the style of education for both sexes is rapidly improving. The Upper Canada College at York is well endowed, and when its wild acres shall be settled and cultivated, will be- come an institution not to be sneered at by any Al- ma Hater at home. The charges at present are, Preparatory School for Boys. General Branches, per quarter, . . .£150 Pens, fuel, ice. per ditto, . . . . 5 College for Senior Boys. Classical and General Branches, per quarter, £2 Pens, fuel, &c. per ditto, . . . . 5 Drawing, per ditto, 10 Books extra. Board, under the surveillance of the Principal, £25 per an- num. HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 157 Besides which, there are other hoarding-houses in York, and boarding-schools at Cornwall, &c.* I would now wish to offer a few remarks to those who feel disposed to emigrate, from a view rather to prospective advantage tlian from the call of stern ne- cessity, or from inability to provide for a numerous family at home. Assuming such an individual to be a man of sober habits, by which I would be under- stood to mean not merely a distaste for debauchery, but of a temperament which derives its chief enjoy- ment from the domestic circle, and from useful and rational pursuits ; to such a man I am not afraid to say, that Canada holds out an inviting field of enter- prize and profitable occupation. Let him not, how- ever, suppose that he is just at once to bask in the full glare of prosperity. Many disagremens await him, but none which a man of ordinary discretion and perseverance will be long of surmounting. The circumstances, connexions, and habits of individuals are so various and so opposite, that it would be vain to draw up a scheme of settlement suitable or pa- latable to all. Nothing, however, is more certain than this, that here, as in all human arrangements, much benefit may be derived from combined efforts. For such a purpose, my own wish would be to form a small association of colonists, who would go to market for a tract of land suited to their purpose, * Arrangements are also, I believe, in progress for the ear- ly establishment of a Female Boarding School of a superior description, in or near York. 15R HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. and which there ciiii be; no doubt they would pro- cure in a large block, and for a price to be paid down, upon very advantageous terms. Having made the purchase, let each individual be imme- diately p'lt in absolute possession of bis own estate. Future arrangements would be dictated by circum- stances ; and self-interest, the most efficient of all cigents, could be easily brought to bear upon the good of all. Artisans, machinery, live-stock, with many other requisites, could be procured, at a re- munerating rate for a community, which would never Jiave paid a return to individual settlers, and a pros- j)erou5 advance might soon be looked for. Of (bourse, I cannot be supposed to contemplate a com- munion of property, or such-like wise-headed dreiuns ; but the mutual solace and comfort of ten or a dozen respectable families thus planted together, is beyond any estimate we can form. Sickness and death itself would be shorn of many terrors to the liead of a family, when thus assured of his little ones having kind and willing friends around him, em- barked in the same concern, and yet having no teni])- tation to injure or defratid. Objections to such a plan may be raised upon the ground of human fickle- ness and whim, and certainly the selection would re- quire to be made with strict attention to charsvcter and sense; but no insuperable difficulty presents it- se'lf to my mind, which should pi-event it from being carried into successful operation. I would have the stock agreed upon placed in the hands of respectable agents, as the Upper Canada Bank, or a HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 159 bank at home, a small committee appointed, and power given to make a purchase, and to have it sur- veyed and divided, and each man's portion set off by- lot, or in such other way as might be preferred. Should any special advantage, as a mill-power, gyp- sum-quarry, &c. accrue to one portion of the property, it might be again appropriated by lot, or have such conditions attached to it, for common behoof, as would place all the parties on a par. Our farming interests at home have been severely scourged of late years, and capital has been, at each revolving term, compelled to meet demands, which profits, reasonably expected, ought to have supplied. Nor is it perhaps the least lamentable part of the case, that, notwithstanding the too palpable loss be- fore their eyes, scarce a farm comes into the market without a very general competition. How shall we seek to solve conduct so much at variance with ordi- nary discretion ? Perhaps it frequently arises from a man having grown up to middle life, with his ha- bits and views fixed beyond a change; or, again, with a valuable stock in hand, for which no adequate price is to be had, — in such a predicament there scarce remains for him, a choice but to venture upon another cast. Many are the worthy and respectable men of this description, who may certainly better their condition by a i-emoval to Canada ; at the same time, it is a serious step, not to be lightly adopted, and which, above all, they should remember, cannot, with safety, consistency, or credit, be retraced. In Canada he 100 HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. will become proprietor m fee-simple of lands, at a rate per acre, wliich would scarce pay half of his yearhf rent at liome : but this is only to be effected at a sacrifice of early ties and connexions, and by a cheerful submission to many privations and bothera- tions, Avliich will require a steady and cheerful tem- per to surmount. From the prices of land, the rates of wages and labour, and the value of produce, Avhich have been given, and for the accuracy of which, I think I can pledge my credit, every man will be enabled to form some judgment for himself, so far as written statements avail ; and I will only again repeat, that Upper Canada certainly appears to me blessed with all the solid materials of human happiness, independence and comfort. How long she is to continue in pupilage, or when the period will arrive when the parental tie is to be severed, are questions, momentous indeed, but difficult to solve. It must, however, be the anxious desire of every patriotic Briton and Canadian, that, happen when it may, or how it may, a cordial spirit of mu- tual concession and good will shall form the basis of bringing it to an adjustment. In this, and in no other tvay, can either country hope to derive from it security or advantage. I shall now conclude this portion of my Notes, with some Tables, drawn from sources equally au- thentic, though different from those already given. PRICES OF LIVE-STOCK, &C. 161 Prices of Live- Stock, Upper Canada. Ilorses, .... L.7 10 to L. 10 Oxen for labour, per pair, . 15 17 10 Milch Cows, 3 15 5 Implements, Sfc. Waggon for a pair of horses. Harness for do. do A plough, Brake-harrow, Long chains to drag trees, each Double horse-sleigh. Common ox-sleigh, L.20 10 3 2 1 5 7 2 Produce. Wheat per bushel, L.O 3 6 to L.O 5 Barley do. 2 6 3 Oats do. ] 6 2 Indian corn, do. 1 6 2 6 Pease do. 2 6 3 Potatoes do. 1 6 2 Hay per ton, , 2 2 10 Wages and Labour. Hire of a man for farm- work, with board, per month, L. Do. of female for ordinary house-work, per month. Carpenter per day, ..... Blacksmith on job per month. Do. for a set of shoes, .... Chopping per acre, .... Logging (collecting and dragging) do. Ordinary fencing of split rails, per rood. Post and rail fencing, per rood. Sowing and harrowing per acre. Reaper's wages (find themselves) per day, 2 10 1 10 5 4 5 10 1 10 1 1 1 1 10 5 5 162 PRICES OF HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE. Commonlaliourersatliuiiancornorpotatoworkjdo. L.O 3 6 Wheat, reaped, and hauled iuto rick-vard and stacked, per acre, . . . , , 10 Thrashinj; and winnowing, per bushel, . C Household Furniture. Handsome sideboard, two doors, and five Secretary or writing-table, Sofas, ..... Dining-tables — three to a set, Bureaus, six drawers. Do. do. plain. Do. with four drawers, Breakfast- tables, Black walnut chairs, hair-bottoms, each Common "Windsor chair, each, Drawing-room table, claw feet. Do. do. do. plain, Bedsteads, high posts. Tent do. .... Dressing-table and washstand. Double washstand, Light washstand, . . Ladies' work-table, drawers, L. 15 10 . L. 12to 15 7 5 4 3 1 5 1 15 5 7 10 4 10 2 1 10 1 10 1 10 12 1 10 These articles are handsomely and substantially finished ; and the native woods, such as bird's-eye maple, black walnut, birch, elm, oak, cherry, &c. sup- ply excellent and beautiful materials. ( 163 ) CHAPTER XIV. Tovm of Buffaloe — The Bank — American Hotels — Track-Boat on the Erie Canal for Rochester — Floating Menagerie — De- posit of Fossil Wood in progress to Coal — Anecdotes of New Orleans by an American Traveller. Having, with sincere regret, for the present, bid adieu to Canada, I am now to offer a few cursory remarks upon my homeward route through the Uni- ted States, which, however insignificant, may yet prove acceptable, as the result of candid and unpre- judiced observation. There is perhaps nothing more difficult in the note-book of an American traveller, than to assign their due and proper status to the places which he may visit on the Western Continent, where a mill and a few paltry stores or shops start, as it were by magic, into importance, and where he will hear of the busy transactions of men, carried on in villages or towns, which he may look for in vain upon his map. Buffaloe was becoming a place of some im- portance in 1814, when it was burnt by the British in a hostile incursion, and would, in our old jog-trot part of the world, have been most probably thereby utterly extinguished, or throwTi back for a long and indefinite period. Not so, however, here. l2 164 TOWN OP BUFPALOE. A spirit of enterprize, which, witliout doubt, cha- racterizes the citizens of America, forbade the local advantages of sucli a place to remain dormant. The town is now rapidly advancing in wealth and trade, full of bustling merchants, and stores amply provided with the products of every quarter of the globe. The navigation of the great inland seas, and of the Grand Canal, here uniting, must confirm the prospe- rity of Buffaloe, and the influx of emigrants flowing through it, to secure the rich and virgin Ireasui'es of the western lands, is almost without example. At this time the numbers were such, that it required compulsory measures to clear the decks of the daily steamers upon Lake Erie. The population of Buf- faloe (I believe) at this time, is about 7000. Besides the concourse of strangers common to the season, the town was particularly crowded, during my visit, from the interest excited by the incorpora- tion of a new bank, of which the shares were to be at this time apportioned, and being considered an extremely good investment, a downright scramble ensued for the stock. The capital had been fixed by the State Legislature at 200,000 dollars, but in a few minutes a million and a half were subscribed, and the greatest disa])p(»intment expressed by those who had failed to obtain shares, and many of whom had come a great distance for that purpose. The dividend was expected at once to reach 10 per cent. Banking has been one of the efi'ective agents by which America has advanced in her wonderful ca- reer, and has there, as elsewhere, exhibited many of BANKING SYSTEM. 165 those distressing fluctuations which must ever at- tend an unsubstantial degree of credit, and an un- limited paper circulation. The free and independent character of the government and people, joined to a degree of jealousy which exists between the diffe- rent States, fostered the undue growth of banking establishments, while many were started for merely local and selfish purposes, with little more than a fic- titious or fraudulent foundation. This evil has, however, been in a great measure corrected at length in the State of New York. In 1829, an act was passed, of which the principle is to secure the public against loss from the failure of in- dividual banks, by requiring an annual deposit from each of one-half of one per cent, on its capital stock paid in. There are various checks and provisions bearing upon the same point, the whole is placed under a board of commissioners, and the loss which may at anytime occur by the failure of a bank to meet its engagements, is thus made good to credi- tors from the Safety Fund. It is quite obvious how essentially this must tend to preserve confidence and credit, and how eff^ectually it must prevent fictitious banking establishments from injuring the public. Insolvent firms are regularly registered and announ- ced in the almanack of the year. From the state of the town, and the respectable character of our hotel (the Eagle), it was crowded to excess, and the bar-room presented that mixed multitude, which, in such cases, are generally as- sembled. By far the greater portion of our guests 1G(J AMERICAN HOTELS. were liighly respectable in manners and appearance ; while others, no doubt, exhibited a certain xcmdd- he janty air of importance, ludicrous enough, but forming- the exception, and not the rule. In Ame- rican hotels of an inferior rank, or in the semibar- barous regions of the west, a more heterogeneous as- semblage may be looked for, but it is nothing else than wilful malice to astonish John Bull, by present- ing such as a fair sample of Brother Jonathans life and conversation, and it is no great wonder that such freedoms should give offence. How indignant would we feel, at beholding a picture of English society drawn from a skittle-ground, or the public room of a paltry eating-house, a second rate tavern, or an humble inn ! Or what should we say to the fidelity and candour of that pencil, Avhich would seek to en- lighten the citizens of New York upon the beau motide of a London Theatre, by presenting them with a dress circle, taken from the Cobourg or Saddler's Wells ? Such impositions, however, have been palmed upon us, and received in a manner far more flattering than they deserved. At the same time, it is foolish to be angry, as we know well the value of a good laugh, which the many are ever ready to in- dulge, without feeling over scrupulous as to the ex- citing cause. In those parts of America where travelling is yet in its infancy, and accommodations are yet rude, you may find half a dozen strangers disposed of in one apartment for the night. Here prudence will sug- gest the expediency of providing against mistakes AMERICAN HOTELS. 167 in regard to meum and tuurn, for unquestionably such do occur. A young- friend of mine, not over circumspect in those matters, was surprised upon examining the toilet-table of his bed-room in Detroit, to find himself minus a pocket-compass, and some other tempting nick-nacks. A very personable, de- cent-looking man, who proved to be an early riser, had fancied them, and long before the loss was dis- covered, had taken his departure beyond recall to the west. But it is time to go to bed, and Dr D and I, who were billeted together, having discussed all the merits of the Huron track over sundry pota- tions of most respectable whisky-toddy, at last turn- ed in. It was not long ere my friend gave unequivocal evidence of profound repose ; but the night was sul- try, and my own slumbers were somewhat retarded by the most vivid lightning I had ever witnessed. The thunder rolled in heavy peals, though without the slightest annoyance to the Doctor, and the rain poured down in torrents, the whole being succeeded by a fresh and delightful morning. Such summer- storms are not unfrequent in Canada, and have a perceptible and genial influence in modifying the fervent heat of the season. Friday, May 20. — I took my departure this mor- ning from Buifaloe, by the track-boat on the Erie Canal, for Rochester, a distance of 94 miles. Fare Q\ dollars, or 15s. 9d., three capital meals included. These boats are much in use by travellers ; they are moderate in their charges, comfortable and well re- gulated. The cabins are provided with books and 168 TKACK-BOAT FOR ROCHESTER. pamplilets, and the table al»uii(laMtly supplied with good cheer. The ijj)per deck affords a pleasant pro- menade, with fine views of the country, through which we glide smoothly along, though rather fre- quently interrupted hy imiiiuierahU; bridges upon the canal, so near the deck, tiiat it is absolutely in- dispensable to descend upon ai»proaching them. The rules for the cabin, it may be said, prove their own necessity ; but still they are well adaj)ted to check freedoms of individuals, which might incom- mode the general company. I had not been long on board, when I Avas amused with the discomfiture of a consequential-looking gentleman, who had stretch- ed himself, in luxurious ease, at full length upon a couch. So soon as he was observed, the st(!ward was at him, very civilly giving a hint as to regula- tions, — answered by a broad stare of astonishment at his freedom. At him .again, — a second stare, in- tended to be very terrific, and followed by a grumph ; but, alas ! next came the captain himself, who whis- pered a few words into the ear of our hero, which, I doubt not, contained an alternative of stepping ashore, for the great man was forced to succund), and sally forth upon deck, there to digest the aifront as he best might, and cool his offended dignity, or puff away his displeasure in a cigar. Soon after leaving Buftaloe, my eye was attracted to a strange looking barge, which proved to be a floating menagerie, and I gave Jonathan credit for the idea. The great length of the canal, and the rich improving country which it intersects, will FLOATING MENAGERIE. 169 make the speculation, I dare say, a good one, and by judicious intervals in their visits, with a reason- able change of stock, it may expect to retain the charm of novelty. Another travelling establishment lay near it, containing a grocer's store, which must prove a considerable accommodation to families on the line of the Canal, living distant from villages or towns. The Erie Canal is undoubtedly a magnificent work, and reflects high credit on those who planned it, and upon the Legislature of the State of New York, who have carried it into efi^ect, within the short pe- riod of five years, at an expense of 8,000,000 of dol- lars. It is the property of the State. The outlay has been most judicious, and will produce large re- turns to the public exchequer, besides the incalcu- lable collateral advantages which it must confer upon the State. It has made a very prosperous opening this spring. Upon the 23d of April, the collection of dues amounted to 4483 dollars, or about L. 1200, and the average since has been about L. 450 per day. The canal is 40 feet wide at top, 28 at bottom, and 4 deep. The whole extent is 360 miles. Upon leaving BufFaloe, the canal proceeds parallel to the lake and river for some distance below Blackrock, afl"ording fine views of Grand Island upon the left. A remarkable deposit of vegetable remains was disco- vered in cutting this section. The workmen came upon a bed of half-decayed trees, about 6 feet in depth, and extending for nearly half a mile. It con- tained the branches and stems, preserving the grain 170 DEPOSIT OF FOSSIL WOOD. of the wood, but liad for tlie most part become a black mass of matter, which burned freely upon being dried. There can be no doubt that it was in the state of transition to coal ; and the circumstance confirms what we are told of a like process now going on at the mouth of some of the great Ameri- can rivers. It may be reasonably assumed in the present case, that besides any trees growing on the spot, the drift wood from Lake Erie had accumulat- ed for ages, and formed the mass in question. The canal after some distance leaves the river, and takes an inland course. At times we moved along through still and silent woods, and again emerged upon a busy cultivated country, with numerous hamlets and farms. The crops appeared to be healthy and luxu- riant, but the soil to-day did not seem to be very rich. The pastures were good, and I observed oc- casionally, though only occasionally, cattle of a tole- rable stamp, and certainly superior to those of Ca- nada. We had a very pleasant party at dinner. The Americans delight in travelling ; and I received much entertainment and information from a gentle- man who, with his family, had been making a win- ter and spring tour in the south and west. He had ascended the Mississippi, and sailed down Lake Erie to Buffaloe. lie missed the green pease at dinner, to which he had been accustomed, he said, for many weeks past. The demoralization of the Southern Slave States, especially in the towns, when compared with other portions of the Union, is appalling. New ANECDOTES OF NEW ORLEANS. 171 Orleans seemed to have impressed this honest gentle- man as a perfect Pandemonium ; its moral and phy- sical abominations, he declared, were alike intole- rable. Gaming-houses form a regular source of pub- lic revenue, as in Paris. They are limited to eleven, and are farmed for L. 2000 or L. 3000 each per an- num. The steam navigation upon the Mississippi and Ohio is prodigious. Two hundred immense vessels are in daily operation ; and as a sample of the trade, I give an extract from the manifest of The Uncle Sam, on her voyage from Louisville to New Orleans, which this gentleman had noted in his pocket-book, on the 26th of March last : — 307 bar- rels of pork; 194^ barrels ditto; 9 hogsheads of hams ; 2138 kegs of lard ; 3147 barrels of flour ; 30 barrels of gin ; 92 barrels beef ; 50 boxes merchan- dize ; 32 barrels of porter ; 224 barrels of eggs ; 290 dozen chickens ; 40 turkeys ; 50 horses ; 32 cabin passengers; 42 deck ditto ; 31 way ditto : and this was mere every day work. Mobile, on the Gulf of Mexico, is considered likely to become a place of great commercial importance : it is in the State of Alabama. Lockport, 27 miles from Buflfaloe, has been rapid- ly transformed from the wilderness into a thriving village of perhaps 2000 inhabitants. The canal near this has been cut through the solid calcareous rock, for a distance of five miles, to a depth of from 5 to 30 feet, and still maintaining the general width of 40. At the termination of this stupendous exca- vation are placed five double combined locks, of 17ii ANECDOTES OF NEW ORLEANS. handsome and solid masonry. The descent, I believe, is about 70 feet, and the scene is altogether pictu- resque and interesting. After having been for above an hour immured by the rock on either side, you find yourself suddenly emerge, and approaching steadily to an abyss of a somewhat threatening as- pect. Presently, however, a halt takes place, and the beautiful mechanism of the hydrostatic ladder transports you in safety to the plains below. You have in fact descended the Falls of Niagara, for it is the same ridge M'hich intersects Canada, and you are now upon the level of Ontario. ( 173 ) CHAPTER XV. Town of Rochester — Aqueduct across the Genesee — Waterfall — Sam Patch — Stage-coach to Canandaigua — State of the Country — Tovm of Canandaigua — Mode of Preserving Ice. Saturday/, 21st. — We reached the far-famed Ro- chester about eight this morning' ; and here I took leave of the canal, intending to prosecute the re- mainder of my journey to Albany by land. Roches- ter is well known to all who take an interest in America, as a remarkable instance of what may be done in the way of transition, and as exhibiting in its streets a perfect sample of the progress from stumps to steeples. It is certainly an interesting place, and presents a busy scene of manufacturing and commercial enterprize. My time being limited, I immediately procured a cicerone, and proceeded to walk over the town, concluding Avith the banks of the river, where there is a powerful fall upon the Ge- nesee, about 90 feet in height, forming a most ro- mantic scene, and which may be fairly denominated the parent of Rochester, as the mill-power which it supplies has brought the whole affair into existence. There are also sulphur springs and baths in the town of some repute. 174 SAJI PATCH. A splendid aqueduct carries tlie canal here across the river by ten arches. It is also at present in contemplation to unite the Genesee and Alleghany rivers, by a canal of more than 100 miles in ex- tent, and which would open up a valuable trade with the upper part of the Ohio Valley. I have no doubt that it will be carried into effect, or perhaps a rail- road substituted. Close upon the verge of the pre- cipice at the fall, is observed a small islet or green knoll, from whence poor Sam Patcli took his final plunge. Sam, it would seem, was no subscriber to the tenets of the Temperance Society, for upon this occasion his perceptions were far from being clear ; and having neglected to spring in his usual adroit style, the unlucky wight never again appeared. The interest which this poor creature excited, both here and at Niagara, was astonishing. His very exit (than which nothing could be more natural) was considered somewhat mysterious, as his body was not found ; and some time subsequent to the event, a fellow of a waggish disposition happening to be accidentally in that part of the coimtry, and bearing, it is said, a singular resemblance to Patch, was stop- ped by a Rochesterman on the road, and questioned on the subject. The stranger immediately saw a fair opening for fun, and, after some hesitation, re- luctantly confessed that he was actually Satn himself; but that, for particular reasons, his being alive must be kept a profound secret, until a day be named, when he would make a public appearance in Roches- ter, and that he trusted to the fidelity of the person STAGE-COACH TO CANANDAIGUA. 175 who had discovered him not to mention the circum- stance, meantime, to any living being. As a matter of course, it vras speedily confided, in like manner, to the whole population ; and on the appointed day, crowds assembled to laugh at the credulity of one another. A poor tradesman of the town had taken wilfully the same fatal leap, only on the day prece- ding my visit. Many of the poor Indians are lost over the fall, when rum has been in plenty. A squaw was observed upon one occasion, with her canoe ab- sorbed in the current, and she herself utterly insen- sible to the danger. Warned at last by loud excla- mations from the banks, she roused herself, only to behold the frightful chasm before her, when, per- ceiving all hope of escape to be vain, and every efi^ort fruitless, she coolly finished off the contents of her bottle, and plunged into the abyss. Rochester has been subject to fluctuations in its progress for some years back, and capitalists have been supposed to retard it, by demanding extravagant prices and rents for house-lots and buildings. This, however, must soon cure itself, and already, I am told, the town is rallying. I travelled by stage to Canandaigua, with a very intelligent pleasant party. The country was, for the most part, rich and beautiful, and the eye was gra- tified by a constant succession of fine farms and luxu- riant orchards. The dwelling-houses of the proprie- tors were frequently large and handsome, but neither Canada nor the States can boast of much taste in their rural architecture. The abundance of wood 17C STATE OF THE COUNTRY. affords such a facility of varying- the outward form and internal accommodations, that this is to be re* gretted, especially as very superior models may be found within their reach in Canandaig-ua, Geneva, and other rural towns. One feature distinguishes the Genesee country, and adds infinitely to the beauty of the landscape. The sinach-smootli, irholcsale si/stcm of cutting- every tree around the mansion, which perpetually oftended my eye in Canada, has been here greatly avoided, and noble elms and other spreading forest-trees are frequently seen, ornamenting and shading the field around. Why should it be otherwise ? In Canada, I was told that single trees would not survive the shock of losing the shelter they derived from their neighbours, and no donbt some caution would be required, and might, I think, be easily and success- fully a])plied ; at all events, the object is so desirable, that a little extra trouble may \vell be called for. I was delighted to-day, and for the first time, I think, since I left England, to observe some symptoms of a well-formed thriving breed of cattle. Many of them were brindled, and resembled the largest class of our own Argyllshire st(»ck. I fhiidv some good cows might be selected in this district. The crops, consisting of wheat, rye, pease, and clover, all looked well. The farmers were engaged in planting the corn or maize, which is put into small hillocks like moleheaps by the hand, and assumes, when growing, the appearance of a drilled cntp. I observed one field already in braird. The rows are cleaned by STATE OF THE COUNTRY. 177 hoeing, and it is usual to grow in the intervals pump- kins, which are profitably employed (like turnips) in feeding live-stock, and form occasionally no contemp- tible dish at the farmer's board, in the shape of a pumpkin pie. The horses were excellent, and, from the numerous advertisements in the bar-room of every tavern, it was evident that breeding was an object of attention in the district. I observed several mule- colts and foals as we drove along. The roads were very respectable, and evidently of a superior descrip- tion to what I had encountered in Canada, though, at the same time, I would not represent them as exhibiting the expensive labour and skill which smooths our ways in Britain. The soil, in general, appeared to be a sandy loam, and sometimes nearly sand alone, but I should think of a fertile quality, and around Canandaigua it becomes a dark-coloured vegetable mould of the best description. Land, in this part of the State, is high in price. Farms under cultivation sell at a rate varying from 20 to 45 dol- lars, or from L.4, 10s. to L. 10 per acre, according to value, situation, houses, fences, &c. When let upon lease, a dollar per acre is about the common rent, but the practice of hiring land is rare, and when such a thing occurs, it is far more usual to let upon shares, the landlord and tenant dividing the returns. The raw material, and sometimes the cattle, are pro- vided by the former, seed and labour by the latter; and it generally happens, that the landlord soon sickens of the bargain. A long time must yet elapse ere a tenantry forms any conspicuous class in Ame- M 1'JS TOAVN OF CANANDAIGUA. rica. In regard to emigrants proposing to settle in the Genesee country, I would venture to say tliat no respectable man (in regard to circumstances) could establish himself here, with comfort and a fair pros- pect of success, under a smaller capital than L. 2000, supposing him to purchase and stock a farm of 150 or 200 acres. The produce of this part of the coun- try is both abundant and of a superior character. If there is any demand at New York, Genesee wheat is sure to comnuind a market. Canandaigua is a beautiful town. The upper por- tion consists of a wide street of great length, running along a ridge, and ornamented on each side by a suc- cession of handsome dwellings, each having its shrub- bery and parterres in front, with extensive gardens, orchards, and paddocks or farms in the rear. Most of these are built in the style of Italian villas, and are extremely picturesque. Their owners are evi- dently men of wealth as well as taste, and are either possessed of landed estates in the neighbourhood, or connected with banks, land agencies, &c. The fjo-ur- geois, if I may venture upon such a term in this land of independence, reside in the lower part of the town, which extends down towards the lake. Canandaigua possesses a large Classical Institution, and also a public establishment for Female Education. There are two banks, several churches, a court-house, d'c, and though last, not least important to strangers, a first-rate hotel belonging to Mr Blossom. From a platform on the roof of this house, there is an exten- sive and agreeable prospect of the lake and adjoining TOWN OP CANANUAIGUA. 179 country, and in regard to accommodations within, I shall only observe, that I had the curiosity to pace the dining-room, which I found to be ninety feet long by forty in width. It being somewhat late in the evening, I did not intend to have waited upon my friend Mr D , who resides here, until the following morning. He had heard of me, however, accidentally, and vt^itli genuine hospitality came to urge an immediate removal to his house. This I declined, but agreed to spend with him the following day. Smiday 22c?. — Showery. We attended the Epis- copalian Church, a handsome and commodious struc- ture, and heard an excellent sermon continued through the morning and evening service, which, with some others, I may perhaps hereafter shortly advert to. The church was well fitted up, and I was struck by remarking a handsome tablet of mar- ble, inscribed in simple language as " Sacred to the Piety and Virtues of Bishop Heber." I felt this ex- pression of veneration and esteem by those who had no connexion with him, either national or personal, as alike creditable to its object, and to those by Avhom the compliment was paid. Mr M^ , a Scotch gentleman, who has lately purchased a pro- perty in this part of the country, with which he is remarkably well pleased, and two very pleasant neighbours, dined with us. In the evening we took a stroll over the ground of Mr G , also a Scotch- inan, and a man very highly esteemed and respected in Canandaigua. He was himself absent, but his m2 180 MODE OF PRESERVING ICE. friend Mr W conducted us to the garden, which is the best I liave seen in America. It contains a neat building' for a tea-room, with a fountain of the purest water in a cellar beneath, from whence a cool bottle is frequently summoned to add charms to a fete champetre. When upon the subject of cool bottles, I may mention that ice in America is con- sidered a necessary ingredient of existence during four months of the year. Rich and poor, town and country, all revel in this simple and cheapest of luxuries. The system of preserving it differs essen- tially from ours, and is in fact opposed to all our old country notions. A free ventilation is maintained over the surface of the ice. My friend kept his ice in a small building like a milkhouse in his back- yard, with a current of air through it, the pit being sunk in the centre. He had also a very clever box of strong plank 2^ feet scpiare, with a swinging shelf, raised and lowered by a small windlass, Avith a door at top, the contents being thus at all times kept within a frozen zone, and yet perfectly free from damp. D supposes that the preservation of the ice may be in some measure explained by the eva- poration occasioned by the circulation of air during the melting, and which must less or more take place during the hot season, that at least this may possibly check the process *. • It is rather a curious fact, and I found many incredulous to whom I mentioned it on my return. One person, however, who is much interested in the preservation of ice, at once gave me credence, and referred me to the intelligent agent of Lord Dundas at Kerse for information, and from whom I have re- MODE OF PRESERVING ICE. 181 I found much difficulty in breaking away from the hospitalities of Canandaigua, and was especially tempted by D to accompany him on a wedding trip to a very beautiful district, where I would not only have seen how such affairs are conducted here, ceived instructions so simple, that I shall venture to transcribe the substance of his letter. He recommends to choose — Isl, A quiet sheltered sjiot in a plantation, well shaded by tall and umbrageous trees, in a way to be protected from sun and wind. 2c?, The ice, when collected, is to be well broken, and formed into a cone, 15 or 20 feet in diameter at the base, and gradually tapering to its apex, the height being nearly the same as the diameter at the bottom, and this size of a cone will require from 100 to 150 carts of ice. In packing it, men are employed, constantly smashing and breaking the ice with wooden mallete, as it is impossible to pound it too small. Zd, When thus formed, the mass should stand a few weeks exposed, even although the weather may be fresh, by which it will run together and consolidate into one great lump of solid ice. ith. It is now to be thatched, like a stack, with barley straw, about twice the thickness laid upon a stack of oats. Barley straw is found to be decidedly superior to any other, packing more close, and excluding the air more completely than that of wheat or of oats. 5//i, In mild winters when ice cannot be procured, snow may be substituted and treated in the same way, only requiring more beating and tramping together, and it is useful to dash water over it occasionally during the work, as it thus becomes like solid ice. It also succeeds well to mix snow and ice to- gether. Ice may be preserved in this way for three years. Salt has never proved useful, nor any difference been observed from its addition. The ice from the cone is found more powerful than what is taken from the ice-hovise, one-half i\ie quantity of cone ice producing the same congealing effects as double the quantity from the house. Except for the convenience of pre- serving meat, &c. in hot weather, ice-houses might be entirely dispensed with. 182 TOWN OF CANANDAIGUA. but might have inspected the Wadswortli farm, pro- bably the best managed in tlie States. My time, however, was running fast away, and I was forced to deny myself this and many other pleasant excursions. A gentleman had travelled with me from Rochester to Canandaigua, who proved to be the cashier or agent of an Albany bank, in the habit of making re- gular journeys with specie to country branches. I discovered this by noticing a box belonging to him knocking about in the lobby of the hotel, and observ- ing every fellow that passed honouring it with a sig- nificant rattle, which perfectly announced its contents. Upon expressing some surprise to the owner at this apparent indifference, he assured me that it never occasioned him a moment's uneasiness, that such was his usual practice, and that he had no apprehension of any danger ; a degree of faith, which I presume few Lombard Street travellers would feel warranted in manifesting upon the roads of England. ( 183 ) CHAPTER XVI. Town of Geneva — Value of Land — Small Town of Auburn — Its State Prison — Journey to Utica — Tha Town — Road to Schenectady — Sir William Johnston — Travelling from Schenectady to Albany — Return by Steamer to New York — Altered Face of the Country. I LEFT Canandaigua at an early hour upon Mon- day. The morning was rather cool, but we had a pleasant drive of three hours to Geneva, sixteen miles. Crops of all kinds looked well, and the cat- tle were of a good stamp. The soil generally seemed to be light. The face of the country is undulating, and presents several of those terraces which may be remarked in various parts of the world, and which are ascribed by geologists to powerful currents which have at some period swept along the face of our globe. Geneva is a thriving and a pleasant town, upon a rising bank overhanging the Seneca lake. It wore an air of especial beauty this morning. The sun shone with uncommon splendour upon the land- scape, and the lake was calm and pellucid as a mir- ror. The foliage and verdure exhibited all the freshness of spring, and the villas and houses had just assumed their annual garb of painting, white- washing, and cleaning. Merchants and farmers seemed involved in business, and the scene alto- 184 TOWN OF GENEVA VALUE OF LAND. gether was cheerful and pleasing. I received the most polite attention from Mr F , who is a land agent liere, acres being still one of the great staples of the country. Land in cultivated farms fetches from twenty to forty dollars per acre. The return of wheat is ge- nerally from 25 to 50 bushels per acre. Some por- tions of Genesee are uncommonly fertile. I observe in the prize list of an Agricultural Society in 1819, that wheat yielded 80 bushels or 10 quarters per acre, barley 34 bushels, pease 32 bushels, and In- dian corn 132 bushels per acre. These crops were raised in Ontario county, and twelve, fifteen, and eighteen successive and productive crops of wheat are frequently noticed as having been raised without perceptible difference or detriment. Mr J , from Scotland, made a purchase some years ago up- on the banks of the lake ; lie deals largely, I under- stand, in cattle, and is doing well. He has begun to use lime with great benefit. Mr S , an Englishman, has introduced white-thorn hedges with entire suc- cess, and there can be little doubt that they will thrive. I saw some in a most healthy condition both here and at Canandaigua. It is particularly requisite to guard against drought, and for which reason it is preferable to plant in a trench than upon a bank. The Englishman's farm was for sale. A friend of mine who looked at it some time subsequent to my visit, describes it as containing 250 acres of good loam and some indifferent clay, well watered, but without any mill-power. The wheat and Indian SMALL TOWN OF AUBURN. 185 com were excellent. The hedges thriving' and in good order, Avitli a double rail fence. The mansion- house and offices were very respectable. The price asked was 25 dollars per acre, or £ 1406, 5s. in whole for the farm. I should consider Geneva a healthy and desirable place of residence, possessing good society, and where many delightful houses, with gardens looking down upon the lake, may be had for a rent of £30 or £40 per annum. I visited the empty mansion of my friend W , then upon his voyage from Britain, and found Commodore in great health and condition, a horse imported by him some years ago to improve the stock, and, to judge from a three year old chestnut colt, then in breaking tackle, the experiment would appear to have succeeded well. I left Geneva in the stage for Auburn at 2 o'clock. We made rather a tedious halt at a house in the out- skirts of the town, when, to deprecate our impa- tience, the stage-owner whispered that there was a marriage in progress, and by-and-by the blushing bride, her spouse, with a male and female friend, en- tered our vehicle, and off we drove. Some sweeps of the road presented charming views of the town, the villas, and the lake, as we passed round its east- em extremity, and, without any particular occur- rence we reached Auburn about eight. Aubura.is a neat small town in the vicinity, but not within view of Owasco Lake. The state-prison is an ob- ject of interest here, and has been often minutely described. The prison hours did not suit my time, and I was thereby prevented from any further in- 1{;6 AUBLKN SIATK-PUISON. spection than a walk by moonlight beneath its walls. The system adopted, as is well known, studies the correction of bad habits rather than vindictive pun- ishment, and |)rovides steady employment for the prisoners, accompanied by the strictest enforcement of silence and submission. How far such a mode may succeed, except in a new and thinly peopled country, is, I think, somewhat doubtful, for, as po- pulation thickens, wealth and privation, crime and corruption, will increase, in a ratio j)robably be- yond the control of this comfortable discipline. The felons are, in fact, too well off; by which I would be understood to mean, that numbers of our ordinary paupers and unemployed artizans in Britain would very thankfully welcome such quarters as the jail of Auburn presents. Mechanics of all descriptions have work and cus- tomers secured to them, are well fed and clothed, and obtain, I think, also a portion of their earnings in cash. In a dense population such a system would probably depress the honest tradesman, and, in fact, hold out a sort of homis to vice. Earnest attention to a sound religious and moral education, can alone check the growth of crime ; and the promotion of this great object will alone prevent the walls of Au- burn from becoming, as it were, a house of refuge, rather than an object of terror and of dread. We left Auburn at an early hour upon the follow- ing morning for Utica, a distance of 74 miles. The day was fine, and our party remarkably cheerful. The country was rich and beautiful, and the crops JOURNEY TO UTICA. \V>7 luxuriant. Mr S from Michigan gave me much information regarding the rapid settlement of that country. He was himself deeply immersed in the stirring scene of enterprise which it presents. Pos- sessed of land, he had also built a large tav^ern, and opened a store in Ypsilanti, a town as yet scarcely recognised upon a map. He had started stages up- on the National Road through the Western Terri- tory, and was now on his way to New York, to or- der additional coaches, and to lay in merchandise of every sort. Some months after this, a friend of mine, travelling in Michigan, happened to be in his house, when a stranger, blessed with more dollars than discretion, urged S to part with his tavern. Desiring to put a stop to this, a price was named which the owner considered sufficient to close all farther palaver, but, to his sm-prise, the proposal was at once accepted, and the bargain concluded. He had now only to make over his premises, and solace himself with his dollars; but (mark !) Jonathan ha- ving been trammelled by no conditions, quickly got up a new house, transferring his residence and his run of business to the opposite side of the way, and leaving poor Johnny Newcome to shift for himself, and make the most of his purchase. We found our roads to-day, for the most part, very indifferent, and were kept in constant motion, jolting and bumping about in high style, all taking it in good humour, and enjoying our laugh in turn, as each came in contact with his neighbour's head. The coachmen drove at a capital pace, in defiance of 188 TOWN OP UTICA. all obstacles. At a wild romantic dell, called Onon- dagua Hollow, where a deep and steep bank hems in the road upon hand, and the deep ravine upon the other, we took leave to dismount, as it happened only upon the day preceding-, that when rattling down at a swinging trot, the chain of the pole gave way, and there was nothing for it but to start the team at a gallop. It was neck or nothing, but pro- videntially no accident occurred; and, in fact, it showed uncommon nerve and readiness of mind in the coachman, as he knew well that if he had at- tempted to pull up, the weight of the coach would have sent them all over the precipice to cei'tain de- struction. We passed Cayuga Lake, which seems to be shallow, upon the famous Wooden Bridge, a mile in length. It was rather late in the evening when we reached Utica, where we got very comfortably lodged in the large hotel at the Canal Bridge. This town is one of the most important of the district. The Erie Canal, the Mohawk River, and the Great Road meet here, with others diverging in all directions. Many of the buildings .are of brick, the streets wide, and the stox'es amply replenished. AVe here held a council upon our future progress, and having debated the roughness of the roads on one side, and the tedium of the track-boat on the other, finally resolved upon encountering the former, encouraged by the assu- rances of the stage-owner, that by starting at eight o'clock we should be safely housed in Albany by ten. The promise, I confess, appeared to me some- what problematical in regard to its accomplishment, ROAD TO SHENECTADY. ]89 as I knew the distance to be 100 miles; but my own wishes being in favour of the road journey, I sup- pressed all misgivings on the subject. At eight o'clock, then, we started for Albany, along the banks of the Mohawk, a beautiful and romantic stream, which, it will be remembered, falls into the Hudson at Waterford. The valley is rich, well cultivated, and bounded by finely wooded hills of considerable elevation on either side. We travelled in it for about 80 miles, to Schenectady. When about half through our first stage, we met a farmer on horseback, who informed us that a mud slip, like an avalanche, had occurred some miles in advance, at a point where a steep bank had been cut for the road immediately overhanging the canal, and that we should not, in his opinion, be able to pass. This was food for discussion. For my own part, I had acquired such unlimited confidence in the Ame- rican coachee and his cattle, that I awaited the event with little uneasiness. At last the scene presented itself, and I must say in a somewhat appalling form. The road, which was of necessity extremely narrow, had been completely swamped, and a river of mud with uprooted trees covered its line, in wild confu- sion. On our left was a sharp steep bank ten or twelve feet above the canal, and on our right the precipitous face of the hill, whence this mass had been detached. To dismount was almost impossible, as not a spot could be found on which to walk short of going knee-deep. We had therefore little choice, but to sit it out. Labourers had strewed branches and 100 SIR WILLIAM JOHNSTON. tops of trees npon the mud, wliich formed a sort of floating bridge, but the plunges of our steeds and bulky vehicle in getting through, which they did with much difficulty and hazard, gave me more un- easiness than any thing I had hitherto met with. At last we got clear, and continued our course. The German flats, upon this route, form a tract of uncommonly rich and valuable alluvial soil. The road at times traversed a more elevated part of the country, extremely romantic, the river being for the most part in view, and woods of noble trees covered with the vine in wild luxuriance. Limestone seemed to be abundant. Frequently the rocks and hills greatly resembled our wildest Highland scenery, and Little Falls, a sweet village, in many of its features powerfully reminded me of Dunkeld. We passed this forenoon the delightful residence, in olden times, of Sir A¥illiam Johnston, so well known in American Clu'onicles, for his influence over the native tribes. He acted as agent for the British Government, and lived always in the midst of the Jndians. An anecdote highly characteristic, though not quite new, was talked over as we passed ; I believe it actually occurred. Upon one occasion an old chief happening to fancy a scarlet uniform of Sir Williams, solicited an audience, and with great solemnity recounted a dream, in which the transfer of the coat formed a conspicuous figure. Sir Wil- liam, perfectly aware of their superstitious reverence for such revelations, quietly submitted, and resigned his garment to the delighted chief. In due time, , SCHENECTADY TO ALBANY. 191 however, the Baronet was favoured with his dream also : and having convoked a council, he communi- cated with much seeming gravity, that he had last night been assured of a certain tract of land h«ving been given to him by his good friends the Mohawks. There was no alternative, and Sir William actually received a valuable domain ; but the old chief most solemnly protested, that he would never again dream with Sir William. I was amused to-day with the respectable appear- ance of the scare-crows. One of them figured in a clean white shirt, which no man need have been ashamed to acknowledge : FalstaflF's men would have hailed it as a glorious prize, compared with the fruit of English hedges. From Schenectady to Albany, about twenty miles, the country is sandy and poor. We travelled at the rate of seven miles an hour, but what with our ava- lanche adventure, and some other detentions, it Avas long after midnight ere we reached the city. We had so far exceeded ordinary hours, that the Hotel was hushed in repose, and although we might cer- tainly have raised the house, it was rather doubtful whether we should thereby have improved our con- dition. We found the porter dosing in the hall, and having committed our luggage to his charge, we agreed upon diving into a certain cellar, which we had observed to be still lighted up as we drove in. Here we found a good sample of low life in Albany. It was about three in the morning, and some of the party had evidently been indulging freely during the 192 RETURN TO NKW YORK. previous liours. Still there was no brutal drunken- ness nor insolence of any kind, altliouf^h we were certainly accosted with sufficient freedom. After partaking- of some capital strong ale and biscuits, we returned to our baggage apartment, and wrapping ourselves in greatcoats and cloaks, we enjoyed a to- lerably comfortable nap, until daylight again put us in nuttion. I should have mentioned the amount of the coach fare from Geneva to Albany, which was only 7 dol- lars, or f 1 : 11 : 6, for a distance of 170 miles, with- out a farthing extra of any kind, as connected with the coach. After a saunter through the quiet streets, and vi- siting a cleanly civil fellow of a barber, who was in readiness for customers, even at this early hour, I embarked in the Albany for New York. This ves- sel, although not quite so large as the " North Ame- rica," is a steamer of the first class, noted for ele- gance, comfort, and speed. We had about sixty passengers in the cabin, increasing and diminishing at various points. The morning was balmy and de- lightful, and the scenery all that the most fastidious admirer of nature could desire. Winter had hardly disappeared M'hen I sailed up the Hudson ; the wind was then piercing, the country bleak, and the woods devoid of foliage. How great was the contrast now ! The sun shone forth in sill his glory, the farms and orchards gave the richest promise of abundance, and the noble mountains of Catskill, lofty as our Gram- pians, and covered with oak and other woods, reared ALTERED FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 193 their tops above the masses of fleecy and feathery clouds which rolled along- their sides. It was indeed a lovely scene, and I never wearied in contemplating its beauties. The verdure was so fresh, the islands, headlands, and bends of the river, so varying- and new, that I shoidd have left America totally unaware of the charms of the Hudson, had I not enjoyed this second trip upon its waters. The numerous schoon- ers and steam-vessels, too, gave constant animation to the scene. One powerful steamer with a lighter on every side, like some huge monster of the deep and her two cubs, passed us full of a colony of Swiss and German emigrants, with their goods and chattels in the boats, chaunting in great glee their wild and native airs. It is the practice of those people to move in little communities, and they generally bring out along with them their village pastor or priest, so that the change of clime scarce ever occasions to them one painful recollection. We stopped a few minutes at Poughkeepsie, where there are regular races, then just concluded, and where we took on board three coursers with their grooms. I believe they were not of the lirst class, but assuredly our Newmarket men would have turned up their noses at the stud, without excepting their tawney-faced attendants. The Highlands, the Sugarloaf, and Anthony's Nose, severally called forth our admiration, as we passed them in succession, and as the tints of evening approached new beauties were disclosed. I observed upon the banks of the river a large and N 194 UKTUUN TO NEAV YORK. simple reel, by which the fishermen dried their nets in a manner far more expeditious and handy tlian by spreading them, as we do, upon tiie beach. I may also just notice a windmill as new to me in its con- struction, the sails or arms being made to act in a horizontal direction. I am told that such are pre- ferred in the Slates, but I neglected to ascertain for what particular advantage. The approach to New York in descending the Hudson is fine, but I think decidedly inferior to the entrance from sea. First impressions, however, especially after a long voyage, must be allowed for, and Manhattan is an interesting island, view it from what point yon will. About seven we reached the VVliarf, and I found myself again established in my quarters at Bunker's, where tea ^^ dla mode " and a warm bath, prepared me for a comfortable bed, rendered more than usually accept- able after my journey of the last two days. I spent the following forenoon in paying visits, and secured my passage in the George Canning, which was the packet to sail on the 8th June. Pass- ing along Broadway I had a fortunate " rencontre" with my friend W , just arrived from Scotland, and Avho was not a little surprised when I tapped him on the shoulder, delivering himself and luggage at the City Hotel. He had been lucky in his voyage, and brought me pleasant and recent letters from home. ( 195 ) CHAPTER XVII. Steam-boat and Coach Journey to Philadelphia — Intelligent American Grazier — Bordentown — Joseph Buonaparte — Banks of the Delaware — City of Philadelphia — Oppressive Heat — Visit to Laurelhill — Sail down the Delaware, and through Chesapeake Bay to Baltimore. Having resolved upon a trip to Washington, W agreed to accompany me, and we started on the following morning at six in a splendid steamer, crowded with Quakers on their return from some great meeting of the Friends in New York. The morning was fine, and the sail down the bay and through the strait which divides Jersey from Staaten Island was quite delightful. Farms and villas on shore, ships, steamers, sloops, and boats without number, on the placid water around us. There are two steam-boat lines to Philadelphia, one by Trenton, and another by Bordentown. We went by the latter, and returned by the former. The fare was four dollars, or 18 s., including breakfast and dinner, with nearly thirty miles of land-travel- ling across New Jersey, from Amboy to Borden- town. It may be supposed that a rare scramble takes place in the transfer of a steam-boat cargo to the coaches in waiting. Matters, however, are re- n2 190 INTELLIGENT AJIERICAN GRAZIEH. markably well ordered. Each passenger receives tL ticket bearing reference to tlie coacli in which he and his luggage are deposited, the whole being trans- acted without trouble to him, or tax upon liis purse. A party wishing to be together can easily have it arranged by speaking in time to the person who dis- tributes the tickets. W and I, of course, kept together, and we had in our coach two men, respect- able in appearance, who, for the first time that I had met with in America, interlarded their conversation with abominable expletives and oaths. I soon dis- covered that they were graziers, or in some way concerned with live-stock, and, taking a fit time, I opened a chat with the one whose appearance pro- mised the greatest intelligence. Nor was I mis- taken. He proved to be very largely concerned in cattle-dealing for the New York and Philadelphia markets, bringing droves across the Alleghany Mountains often from a distance of 600 miles, and under a perfect system of arrangement. I received much useful information from this per- son, and was not a little astonished when he ad- dressed me, to find him talking, as it were, an entire- ly different language from that which he used to his friend. Not an oath or an improper term escaped fi-om his lips ; and I was taught not to judge too harshly or rashly ; for, however lamentable it was to find him giving way to such a practice at all, it was evidently not his usual custom, but an unwortliy ac- quiescence in [the detestable slang too often to be met with in Ohio or Kentucky. BORDENTOWN. 197 The soil of New Jersey appears sandy and light. The crops, notwithstanding, looked vigorous and healthy, and the Indian corn was putting up its broad blades in great promise. This State is cele- brated for its peach-orchards, which are often of great extent. But nothing in the vegetable world here surprised and delighted us so much as the weeping willows. I had seen no tree in the New World which, in my opinion, could rival them for beauty, and, at variance with the nature of the wil- low-tribe, they seemed to grow here in perfect sand. And how they do grow ! Stems of immense diame- ter, with tops spreading abroad, and drooping to the earth, in a manner graceful and picturesque beyond description. We reached Bordentown upon the banks of the Delaware about three. This is a small town, twenty- four miles above Philadelphia, and has been chosen by Joseph Buonaparte as his retreat from the poli- tics of Europe, and the shipwreck of his dynasty. The place is extensive, and the park is enclosed by a rail-fence. The house has been lately rebuilt af- ter an accidental fire, and appears to be spacious and magnificent. He has not chosen the most fertile portion of the land on which to settle, but this af- fords him the greater scope for exertion and im- provement, and much really appears to have been done. The villa commands a most enchanting view of the river. Our sail down the peaceful Delaware, with the succession of fine farms and rural retreats upon its 198 CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. banks, afforded us the greatest enjoyment. On the Pennsylvanian sliore, the country was especially rich and luxuriant, the fields often large, and the farms or estates extensive. The mansions also were in many instances on a splendid scale, evincing both wealth and taste in their owners. We reached Philadelphia abotit six in the even- ing, and fixed ourselves at the United-States-Hotel in Chesnut Street. Philadelphia contains 130,000 inhabitants, and is a beautiful and regular town. To the eye of a picturesque traveller, its extreme regu- larity may perhaps appear somewhat offensive. The United-States-Bank, opposite to the hotel in which we lodged, is a magnificent building of white marble, after the model of the Parthenon. Many of the churches, private banks, mint, <S:c. are extremely handsome. The streets are well paved, and the pri- vate mansions, for the most part, imiform, commo- dious, and neat. I shall not, however, go into any detailed account of what has been so often described. The market-street is certainly curious, and extensive, being a long arcade filled with all the necessaries of life ; but I must say it fell short of my expectations. The Park, or Public Mall, is a very agreeable pro- menade, in the centre of the city. Philadelphia is built on the bank of the Delaware, here a mile in width, and navigable for the largest vessels. The distance to the sea is ninety miles. The Schuylkill bounds the city on the west, and supplies the inha- bitants with water in the greatest abundance. The day had been warm, but extremely pleasant, OPPRESSIVE HEAT. 199 and we retired to our bed-rooms, little aware of the stew which awaited us. The sleeping- apartments in America are provided with fan-lights above the door, which are left open at pleasure, and maintain a cur- rent of air throughout the house, without increasing the risk which frequently arises from the draught consequent to open bedroom-windows. The night became excessively hot, and in vain did we court Morpheus. I began to think some feverish attack was coming upon me. I opened my window for re- lief, but the air met me hot as from a furnace. It was any thing but a night of refreshment. At last came day-light, and, on descending to the bar-room, we found that the thermometer had made a start of about 20 degrees, and now stood at 90° in the shade, quite sufficient to account for all our distress. We had arranged to visit Laurelhill, a rural tavern, some miles from town, on the banks of the Schuylkill, and to r*eturn in time for afternoon ser- vice. At six o'clock, accordingly, we drove off in a very smart shandrydan, with an excellent nag, and, in spite of the heat, had a very pleasant ride to the place of our destination. AYe passed many villas and farms in high order, and greatly admired the lo- cust-trees in the hedges, with their luxuriant pen- dent clusters of snow-white blossom. Laurelhill well deserves the encomiums bestowed upon it by an English friend in Ncav York, who enjoined me upon no account to omit an opportunity of visiting it. The taverns, gardens, saloons, &c. are upon a large and handsome scale, well fitted up, and no- 200 VISIT TO LAURELHILL. thing wanting wliitli art can supply; bnt it must found its liigliost claim on the natural beauties it en- joys. From the house you enter a range of delightful pleasure-grounds, ornamented by siirubbery, and full of magnificent oaks, whose branches are enlivened by tame turtle-doves in great numbers, the river running smoothly below, with rocky and romantic banks. It was quite a fairy scene, and seems with justice to be a favourite resort of the Philadelpliians. Neither is the interior of the mansion without its charms. We were quickly served with a breakfast, which it would require a diagram to explain, for no less than thrce-aiid-tweniij dishes were placed before us, and were yet laid out with perfect elegance upon a tabl($ three feet square. Fish of various kinds, chickens, ham, sausages, maize-pancakes, &c. &c. figured on our board in neat small portions for two. It was quite a picture to look upon, and not with- out more solid claims to our regard, for each was excellent in its way. The landlord is a man fond of horses, and we were shewn a bay gelding seven years old belonging to him, said to be the fastest trotter in this State, which is greatly celebrated for trotting matches, /<or5e-ram?^ being prohibited by an ancient law of Pennsylvania. This horse was a fine figure, about fifteen hands and a half in height, and shewing good breeding, with well shaped hocks, and powerful muscular thighs. I shall not venture to repeat what we were told of his performances. — On our return we stopped for a short time at Fair- VISIT TO LAUKELHILL. 201 mount, where the great works for raising water had been erected. These consist of five liuge wheels propelled by the Schuylkill, which raise its water above an hundred feet into capacious reservoirs on the summit of the rock, and from whence it is dis- persed by many miles of pipes througliout the city. The buildings have been planned and executed with taste, and the scenery around is extremely beautiful. We attended St Andrew's church in the after- noon, and had a most excellent sermon from Dr Milner. By this hour the heat became most op- pressive, and we suffered much, especially from our wardrobe not being calculated for such a meridian. Fans were universal in church, and in the hands of both sexes ; they seemed to be large flappers made of palm leaves. The butterfly garb of the Negroes in Philadelphia has long been a fruitful source of ri- dicule in the States ; and we witnessed it this even- ing in great perfection. Philadelphia is the very pa- radise of Negroes, and it would seem, poor crea- tures, as if they revelled in especial glee from liv- ing on the verge of bondage. In our hotel, I must say that some authority would have been exercised with advantage, for their tongues never ceased. I was annoyed by their perpetual jabber, though I ought to have remembered, that whereas the ther- mometer at 90'' somewhat discomposed my nerves, it only raised those of the man of colour to his true point of enjoyment. Monday QQth. — A beautiful morning, with a glow- ing sun; thermometer at 84°. The night was trO'* 202 VOYAGE TO BALTIIMORE. meiidously hot. W — , unable to rest, paid me a visit about two, and found nie stripped of the bed- clothes, and gasping like a turtle. The heat is rare- ly greater, and the change being sudden materially increased its effects. The William Penn, in which we sailed for Balti- more at six o'clock, is superb, and fitted up with equal elegance and comfort. The main cabin is 150 feet in length. The fare to Baltimore, 120 miles, was 4 dollars, or 18s. Breakfast and dinner, both most abundant and excellent, were charged one-half dollar, or 2s. 3d. each. We proceeded down the Delaware at the rate of fourteen miles an hour, pass- ing various villages, and pleased with the rich mea- dows and well timbered country on the banks. The scenery, however, was somewhat monotonous and tame. We were ti'an sported from the Delaware to Chesapeake Bay, by the canal lately constructed to unite the navigation. The distance is fourteen miles, and was performed in good style, and in a comfor- table track-boat, in a couple of hours. Four miles of the canal have been excavated with much labour, and this portion is called the Deep Cut. At the highest point, a via-duct, called Summit Bridge, has been thrown across, 90 feet above the canal, and 280 feet in length. Vessels of 200 tons burden pass on the canal. Our party was very pleasant to-day. Mr T , a Virginian gentleman, I found particu- larly intelligent and communicative. In politics he is a great admirer of Mr Clay, and considers him in many points a prototype of Canning. Mr T VOYAGE TO BALTIMORE. 203 had been at Philadelphia to attend the college exa- mination, and to take home his son, a fine looking lad, for the vacation. The college at Philadelphia is remarked for laying a solid foundation in its sys- tem of instruction, especially in mathematics. The examination precludes all attempts at a getting vp. In Euclid, for instance, the number of books gone through is specified, and tickets for each proposition are put into a box. A student is called up by the examiners ; he draws a ticket, and whatever may be the number it refers to, he proceeds forthwith to demonstrate. Such was the account which I receiv- ed from Mr T . I made rather an awkward discovery this forenoon, for, in looking over my pocket-book, and literally ocmparing notes with W , we came to the un- pleasant conclusion that our funds would scarce hold out. I mention the circumstance chiefly as a warn- ing to others, the dollar-notes having now for a se- cond time played me this trick. So long as I was master of a sizeable bunch, I thought all was right, my mind running upon each being at least 20s. in value. I wrote immediately to New York, for a supply to meet me at Philadelphia ; but, as the time was limited, and I had to trust my letter to the master of the canal packet-boat, of whom I knew nothing, my hopes from that source were slender. I had letters with me to Baltimore and Washington, but, as they boi-e no reference to pecuniary matters, I could found but little upon them ; and I determined at once to mention my dilemma to a good namesake 204 BALTIMORE. of my own, wliose acquaintance I had accidentally made in Liverpool, and who is a citizen of Balti-. more. I found him domiciled in Barnum's Great Hotel, one of the best in the States, and was at once put at rest as to my pecuniary difficulties. We reached Baltimore about five. At tlie mouth of the harbour there is a fort of some extent, and in good order. The soldiers looked smart and clean in their summer dress. I drank tea with Mr D , whom I had known in Scotland, and we spent the evening very pleasantly in viewing the town. ( 205 ) CHAPTER XVI 11. City of Baltimore — Journey to Washington — Internal Slave- trade denounced — Capital of the United States — Halls of Congress and Senate, and the Capitol — Interview with Ge- neral Jackson, the President — Visit to Mount Vernon Tomb of General Washington — Return to New York. Baltimore is a thriving city. It is well situate for trade on the Patapsco River, and extensive cot- ton and flour mills are established in the vicinity. There are some very handsome public edifices, and two splendid monuments of marble, one sacred to Washington, the other to tlie memory of those citi- zens who fell in defence of Baltimore in 1814. The population, I believe, is about 70,000. A railway 300 miles in extent has been commenced from this to Pittsburgh, and will greatly increase the trade of Baltimore. The city is well supplied with water from springs within itself. In hot weather a cau- tion to strangers is placarded on the public wells, reminding them of the danger which attends drink- ing cold water when overcome with perspiration and heat. Three newly arrived emigrants died sudden- ly about this time from neglecting this caution. It certainly requires some self-denial to resist, and I felt more tJian once uneasy for W- . and myself, 20fi CITV OF BALTIMORE. but the acidulated waters, the soda fountains, the mint Juleps, Sec, presentinjj^ themselves at every cor- ner, were too much for our fortitude or our fears. After reasoning- gravely perhaps on the matter, and coming to a sound conclusion, a tempting y?rz from some marble table would be sure to lead us astray ; and I believe few shops either here, in Washington, or Philadelphia, escaped without a visit. It is de- cidedly, however, a bad practice, and a vain one, for the enemy immediately assails you, and I think with renewed force. Nothing quenched my thirst so agreeably, safely, and durably, as a goblet of new milk during breakfast, with a lump of crystal ice smmming and dissolving within it. Ice was at com- mand every where in the greatest profusion, and uni- versal in its application. Tuesday, ^\st of May. — We left Baltimore this morning in the stage for Washington. The distance is thirty-eight miles, and the fare 13s. 6d. A gen- tleman for whom I had letters resides on the way, and the stage-owner very civilly secured me a place by his evening coach, which M"as to pick me up if I found it convenient to stop at the house of Mr C . There is some fine scenery in the country around Baltimore ; but I confess that it attracted little of my attention, in an agricultural point of view. Slave- ry is the law of the State, and I tliink no British farmer would choose to encounter that, with so much variety before him as America presents. I shall not at this time enter upon the subject of slave-holding in the States. It is difficult and painful. I must JOURNEY TO WASHINGTON. 207 denounce, however, the internal slave-trade, which is carried on, I am afraid, to a shameful extent. In the suburbs of Baltimore, I remarked an odd looking mansion, resembling something between a jail and a lunatic asylum. There I was told dwelt one who gains his livelihood by seizing Negroes, and whose myrmidons are far from scrupulous in considering whether they have any legal right for pouncing on their prey. Gangs of unhappy creatures are thus assembled by a system of kidnapping, and shipped oflF for the Southern States. At the very moment we passed, a horse stood panting at the gate, and covered with foam, whose rider, I verily believe, (as I was told), had just returned from the pursuit of some hapless and friendless Negro. We had an hour's drive for seven miles upon the first portion of the Ohio railway. The carriages were drawn only by a single horse. The Americans have a great deal to say upon the exploits of the last war. Our route to-day was the same as that of the Baltimore Militia, when they marched out to meet General Ross ; and a passenger in the coach, who was in the action, gave me full details. He saw General Ross fall, and conceived our advance guard to have acted improperly by re- tiring into ambush when they descried the American troops, instead of retiring on the main body. Ge- neral Ross was thus taken by surprise ; he galloped forward to reconnoitre, and was immediately taken down by a rifleman. This person displayed the most extraordinary and lamentable obtuseness of feeling 208 JOURNEY TO WASIIINGTOX. that I ever met with ; not a spark of filial regard for his mother country seemed to remain, and he was indeed thoroughly naturalized. He told me had served ten years as a British officer, in a reg-iment which he named, hut seemed quite insensible of either awkwardness or impropriety in opposing his old comrades in the field. " Why," says I, " Sir, did you not feel rather queer when you marched up in front of the red coats?"' " Not a bit," said he, " I knew how it would l)e, that we would break at the first fire;'' — either evading, or, as I am inclined to think, not comprehending, the drift of my ques- tion. Maryland, so far as I saw, is sandy and poor ; but I know that it possesses some rich districts. Mr C , whose gate I reached about three, is a man of extensive property, and possessed of a beautiful mansion, which stands in a park of 2000 acres. It is rare to find a country seat in America, where so much ornamental improvement has taken place. My visit arose from the kindness of Colonel W , who was wounded and taken prisoner in the engagement at Bladensburg in 1814, and who received so much sympathy and attention upon that occasion, that he came out on purpose from Scotland two years ago, to visit Mr C and other friends, and to cement his friendship with their family circles. It is almost superfluous, therefore, to add, that any reception upon delivering his letter Avas kind and hospitable. After dining, and enjoying a bottle of choice Ma- JOURNEY TO WASHINGTON. 209 deira, well iced, we walked out to see what Mr C called \\\?>people, or, in other words, the slaves, of whom he possesses about 200. We found them engaged in planting tobacco ; and here assuredly slavery wore a smiling aspect. Not that they ex- hibited noisy and unmeaning mirth, but they were steadily and cheerfully engaged, without an overseer of any description. They regard Mr C as their father and their friend ; but when looking on the little ones frisking about devoid of care, I could not divest myself of the remembrance that he might pack them off to market like a drove of pigs, with- out either father or mother having a word to say against it. Tobacco is a scourging crop. The return may be taken at one hogshead per acre, and that is worth 50 dollars, or L. 1 1, 5s. The landed proprietors in this quarter are rather indifferently off. The soil is not rich, and when a farm is sold or let, the occupier, after a few scourging crops, too often conti-ives to pocket the amount, and slip away to the west. I observed many fine standard peach-trees in the park loaded with fruit. In the evening, I walked forward to the village of Bladensburgh, about a mile from the lodge of Mr C , and the evening being remarkably warm, I entered a snug cool-looking tavern, to wait for the coach. A bottle of excellent ale, and, as usual, a plate of ice was placed before me, and I found the book-shelves well replenished with an Encyclopaedia, many volumes of poetry, biography, &c. In due time the coach appeared, o 210 CITY OF WASHINGTON. and we drove through tlie midst of the battle ground, which was warmly contested on some high open woodland, just beyond tho village. Here Colonel W received his wound, wliich procured liiin the kind attention of Mr C ; and I found next day that his visit of gratitude was held in remembrance by the President himself. We reached the city about seven, and I found W waiting for me at Gadsby's immense hotel. I was now in the capital of the United States ; but how shall I describe it ? It is a mighty skeleton, and should the world last for some thousand years longer, its massive public works may percliance be found mouldering, like the remains of the manmioth. I have great doubts, howevei*, whether the flesh and sinews will meanwhile ever have existence. Many are of opinion that the site has been rashly chosen, and various other speculations bear uj)on the stagna- tion of Washington. Leaving these matters for Time to propound, I will only say that the Capitol exceeded all I had heard of it, and whether, from its own merits, or partly, perhaps, from the absence of rivals, it struck me as the most beautiful edifice I had ever seen. It covers an acre and three quarters of ground, and cost L. 500,000. It is built of freestone, painted, and resembles marble so much, that I was at first deceived. Captain H , cavilling at this abuse of white lead, was told that it was resorted to for the purpose of effacing the smoke of the British fire- brands in 1814. CITY OF WASHINGTON. 211 The view from the mount on which it stands is com- manding and extensive. For its interior, I will re- fer to the many descriptions already published, and shall only say, that the Halls of Congress and of the Senate are indeed splendid and commodious. One wide street extends for a mile from the Capitol to the President's house ; but even this, which may be termed the backbone of the mammoth, is yet but indifferently filled up, Wednesday, June 1. — The heat this morning is excessive. Our hotel consists of a large square, with four ranges of covered galleries, bed-rooms entering from each of the two upper tiers. In the centre of the court is a marble fountain, with a copious supply of water playing upon the salads, to cool them for meals. The whole building is of timber, and a watch- man perambulates the house during the night (as is common, I believe, in all these large hotels), to guard against accidents from fire. The very idea of such a household being aroused in the dead of night by such an alarm, makes one quake. I was curious to know how they contrived to preserve untainted their fish, butcher-meat, &c. in such weather as the present, and Mr Gadsby very civilly took me down to his larder in the basement, and showed me what he called a refrigerator. This is a wooden chest, of any dimensions that may be deemed desirable, having double sides, with an in- terval of two or three inches, filled close with hard packed charcoal. There is a drawer or space at the bottom, to be filled with ice, and neat wire shelves 2o 212 INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT JACKSON. are suspended within, upon wliicli the provisions are phiced. In this way, every thing is kept in the best condition, and the butter was equally hard and firm as if the thermometer had been 50^ below the point at which it actually stood. It had naturally been my wish, when in Washing- ton, to be introduced to the President, and a kind friend in New York had promised me a letter, with that view, to Mr Van Buren, at that time Secretary of State. Ere he had accomplished his promise, however, a more particular private friend of Mr Van Buren's coming in his way, he transferred the introduction to him, and a letter was sent me from Mr Cambreleng, couched in the kindest terms, upon my object in visiting the States. This letter I had transmitted on my arrival last night, and was polite- ly requested to wait on Mr Van Buren upon the fol- lowing day. I now called as appointed, and found a message requesting me to follow the Secretary to the President's house, where he had been unexpected- ly sent for. I directly drove thither, and was re- ceived by a respectable " maitre d'hotel," and shown into a drawing-room, well furnished in a private style, and provided with abundance of periodicals to pass the time. By-and-by Mr Van Buren made his appearance, and received me with cordiality and kindness. Shortly afterwards, the venerable Gene- ral himself came down. He is a tall, thin old gen- tleman, of plain unaffected demeanour. He talked with kindly feelings towards Great Britain, inquired into my own views, and the opinion I had formed of INTERVIEW "WITH PRESIDENT JACKSON. 213 America. He mentioned certain portions of the continent as in his opinion desirable for settlers (he is partial to warm climates), and finally dispatched a message, by his private Secretary, to the General Land-office, for Mr Hayward, the Head Commis- sioner of that department, to come to him, that I might make his acquaintance. In this interval, a scene rather ludicrous occurred, but which ultimate- ly conduced to put us on more free and easy terms. The door opened, and, of all men, who should be an- nounced but Mr C , whose letter, introducing his particular friend Mr Fergusson, I had indeed de- livered, but whose face, until that moment, I had never seen. My own physiognomy, I doubt not, somewhat explained my sensations ; for Mr Van Buren immediately rose, and kindly relieved me, by saying, " Permit me, Mr Fergusson, to introduce you to your friend Mr C ," much to the amuse- ment of the President, who laughed heartily at what he could at first by no means decypher ; and, it must be acknowledged, that the coincidence was strange enough, which brought him, unlocked for, at this very moment, and during the short period of my in- terview. The President inquired whether, as regards emi- gration, I felt inclined to prefer Canada or the States? In reply, I stated, that I was much pleased with what I had seen of Upper Canada, and that I be- lieved he would not think the worse of me for hav- ing some bias to our own settlements. " Certainly not. Sir, and I have no hesitation in saying, that, so 214 INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT JACKSON. far as regards climate and soil, it is a matter of in- difference, in my opinion, whether settlers go to Upper Canada or to us ; but, I tvill say" (witli some emphasis), " that, in the States, they will find more stirring;" a remark which is perfectly just, but which I am far from admitting to be any discourage- ment. The resources of our Upper Province remain yet to be developed. Air Van Buren observed (and it was the only observation I lieard that could be said to have a " smack of the court,'') that he had al- ways been particularly struck by the steadiness and success of Scotch settlers. At the same time, and Avitliout any undue national partiality, I believe, he is amply borne out by facts. It was highly satisfac- tory to hear the libei-al and friendly expressions of these statesmen towards Great Britain, and to wit- ness the satisfaction with which they received my assurance, that in all my promiscuous intercourse with American citizens (one only exception unworthy of notice), I had every where met with a congenial and growing spirit of fraternity and goodwill. Some wounds are yet too raw for liandliiig, such as our own visit in 1814 to Washington; but if officious meddlers leave these alone, time will soon obliterate every feeling of rancour. I was very cordially wel- cx)med by Mr Hayward, who took me with him to his office, and presented me with several important documents, and all the information he could give up- on the capabilities, value, and extent of government, lands. I took my leave of the President, highly gratified with my reception. The upper part of the VISIT TO MOUNT VERNON. 215 National Mansion-House (we must not say Palace), I believe, is appropriated to the private accommoda- tion of the Chief Magistrate, and the lower to state apartments, which are very handsome, but were at this time underg-oing repairs. Tliese rooms are open to the public, and large parties were perambulating such as were for the time unoccupied, just as the houses of noblemen are visited with us, barring and excepting all shabby perquisites to menials. The grounds around the house were by no means in cre- ditable order. TJmrsday, 2d June. — Another brilliant day. Tlier- mometer at 86°. We breakfasted early, intending to take the steam-boat to Alexandria, and thence drive to Mount Vernon, which I felt the greatest anxiety to visit. Our attendants at breakfast were busied with large flappers in keeping up a circula- tion of air about the table. There is at this time a keen stage opposition on the road to Baltimore, and the owner of the coach in which we booked ourselves for the evening, offered us his gig to drive to the steam-boat, a distance of a mile and a half, through streets and squares that are to be, and which we found no trifling accommodation in a day so sultry. The Potomac is a noble river, of great depth and width, and tlie country on the Virginian shore, but within the district of Columbia, is romantic and fine : fur- ther down it becomes tame. An extensive bridge of wood unites the two banks, nearly opposite to the city, but it was injured by the ice hi spring, and has not yet been repaired. We passed the Arsenal and 21G VISIT TO MOUNT VERNON. Navy-yard, and sailed aloiig-side of a stately frigate, named after the river in which she lay, and just about to depart for China. Alexandria, seven miles below Washington, is the shipping port where the trade of the city and adjoining district is chiefly car- ried on. We here got a neat light coach, a pair of sleek, well fed horses, and a grinning good-humoured Blackey to drive ns to Mount Vernon, a distance of about a dozen miles, for which we paid three dol- lars, or 13s. 6d. The road is through a wild and rather sterile dis- trict. The forest scenery was in some places ro- mantic, and the variety of oaks surprised us, at least half-a-dozen different species being discernible as we drove along. The Kalmia latifolia (Mountain Lau- rel), here called Honeysuckle, in a luxuriance and beauty which baffle description, twined around their stems, and beds of lovely flowers enamelled the ground. At last Mount Vernon appeared, and the feelings with which (I am not ashamed to say) I al- most idolize the memory of Washington, made it in my eyes a spot of no ordinary interest. The first object which attracted my attention was a noble field of wheat in full ear, with a close useful cedar- hedge along its side, a convenience easily adopted, and which would tend greatly to improve the hus- bandry of America. The American black-thorn is also a good fence, and is rejected by the cattle, who browse upon and destroy the Virginian. The next object we en- countered was, what I would rather have met any TOMB OF GENERAL WASHINGTON. 217 where else, a gang of Negro slaves, engaged in plant- ing tobacco. There are probably few things more humiliating in the history of our race than to con- sider Washington as holding in bondage his fellow- men. The mansion is not large, but with its wings and offices makes a handsome appearance. The situation is very fine, upon a bank overlooking the Potomac, with fine woodland scenery on every side. Judge Washington, to whom the estate now per- tains, considers it unhealthy, and resides in a distant part of the State. We were conducted by a little Negro boy to the tomb of the patriot and hero : for, sure I am, if ever man existed, who, in real life, gave meaning to these terms, it was here that he lived and died. The ori- ginal vault was upon the river bank, below the house, but had suffered so much from damp, that it was found expedient, about two months ago, to remove the remains to a new one at some little distance. This is a simple building, in good taste, bearing up- on a plain marble tablet the inscription, " Tomb of the Washington Family," and beneath, " I am the Resurrection and the Life," &c. Often had I read with envy of visits to this spot, and now I actually stood where his ashes rest. Without the smallest tinge of the sentimental, I can say with truth, that few events of my life ever interested my feelings more, nor could I help reciting aloud — " How sleep the brave, who sink to rest, By all their country's wishes blest ; 218 TOMB OF GENERAL WASHINGTON. M^hen Spring,with dewy fingers cold. Returns to derk tlieir luillowM mould, She there will dress a sweeter sod Than Fancy^s feet have ever trod" I tliink Collins must have been favoured with a pro- phetic vision of Mount Vernon, when he penned these beautiful lines. Our ding-y guide looked somewhat astonished at my effusion, and, I doubt not, was all the while, in sober earnest, reckoning up how iwixny Ji penny hits he was likely to make of us. AYe walked over the rooms of the house without meeting any thing of in- terest, saving, perhaps, the key of the Bastile, de- posited here by La P'ayette, a well chosen gift to lay upon the altar of independence. Ihe neglected condition of Bural Grave-yards struck me with surprize, indeed sometimes with dis- gust. That a people of yesterday should feel some- what indifferent to gorgeous mausoleums, is natural enough ; but that it should extend to the absence of common decency, is reprehensible and disgraceful. I do not recollect of observing one instance of a bu- rial-ground (except in towns) which was kept in to- lerable order, while too frequently the remains of departed friends Avere open to every unhallowed bi- ped or quadruped who might be inclined to intrude. This ought not to be, and it is to be hoped, the bet- ter feelings of the people will ere long be awakened to correct it. The absence of parochial divisions, and the frequent changes of property, with the con- sequent changes of abode, will go far to explain this RETURN TO NEW YORK. 2] 9 neglect ; but although these causes may afford some explanation, they form no substantial excuse ; and we can even imagine the National Union to be ce- mented by visits from the childi*en, now perhaps settled upon the Mississippi or Ohio, to the sacred spot where, on the banks of the Hudson or Connec- ticut, may rest the ashes of their fathers. We returned to the city, and in the afternoon proceeded to Baltimore. The only object of inte- rest on the road occurred after sunset, when the fo- rest, in its deepest recesses, assumed the semblance of a great city under a splendid illumination. Mil- lions of fire-flies flitted on every side, and presented one of the most beautiful and interesting spectacles which W or I had ever witnessed. The heat during this day has been about as great as is ever known, the thermometer ranging even so high as 92° and 94° in the shade. It was late before we reached Baltimore, and we left it early next morning, in the steam-boat, for Philadelphia. Our boat was the " Carrol of Carrol- ton," named after a venerable old gentleman, sole survivor then (for he, too, is since gone) of those who signed the Declaration of Independence. We had a crowded cabin, and all descriptions of travel- lers, even from the prince to the peasant. The for- mer a " rara avis " here, was personified by a most agreeable and intelligent individual, the Prince of Wurtemberg, then returning from an extensive tour in the south and west. _ Of the humbler class, we had some of the rough- 220 RKTURN TO NEW YORK. est gentry I had yet met witli. A portion of the stern gallery is specially appropriated to the ladies, where they may sit or walk without intrusion. In ignorance, I had sauntered to that end of the vessel, and two very coarse-looking gentlemen followed my steps, when presently a person came to us to men- tion that we were breaking rules, at the same time whispering in my ear that I miglit stay or retire, as I pleased. One of my fellow-culprits observed what passed, and immediately questioned me what the captain might have been saying to me. I told him, what was very true, that I was not aware he had been the captain ; " Yes," says he, " it's the cap- tain ; and I ffiiess he was making an excuse to t/ou for turning us forward, and that you might stay." Of course I closed the discussion by walking forward, but I could see that their feelings were pi'etti/ cofisi- derahly excited. We made the run to Philadelphia, 120 miles, in eleven hours, including the delay of the canal. I had some interesting conversation in Philadelphia with Mr Carey, one of the most eminent publishers and bibliopoles of America ; but upon that I cannot at present enter. Saturday, Ath June. — Anotlier roaster. We moved at six in the steamer for New York, and met with nothing particular, except our extraordinary caval- cade across Jersey by Princeton. The road was mere sand, and the day stiltry beyond tolerance. We started thirteen coaches, and the cloud of dust is more easily imagined than described. We kept at RETURN TO NEW YORK. 221 a respectful distance, too, from each other, but there was not an air of wind to dispei'se the foe ; and ma- ny a green silk pelisse and gay bonnet would, I am sure, rue their appearance on this occasion. The agony of the fair owners was affecting and amusing by turns. Upon the Monday and Tuesday of the following week, I was engaged in taking leave of friends, and in making preparations for my voyage. W and I had made an appointment with our friend the cat- tle-dealer, to meet him on the morning of the 6th in the Smithfield of New York, and we attended ac- cordingly. The stance is about two miles from town, with very suitable yards and pens. The show was rather indifferent this morning, and our friend had been prevented from getting there. I think there were about 200 oxen on the ground, running from 40 st. to 70 st. each, but they could not be reckoned more than half fat. I think they had all been in the yoke. We breakfasted at the ordinary with the butchers and graziers, and, though not quite so elegant as in Bunker's, had every thing comfort- able and clean. The most entertaining circumstance we met with, was the free and unsophisticated ease of a gentle- man, whom I fixed upon, in my estimate of charac- ters at breakfast, as one of the leading and old-esta- blished butchers of the city. He seemed quite at home with all the farmers, handled their stock in proper style, decided on their weight, condition, &c. with equal promptitude and fluency. I determined to make a set at him, and thought I had done won- 222 RETURN TO NEW YORK. <Iers when he took me by the arm and led me off to tlie yards to look at some oxen just come in. There, however, to my surprise and amusement, I discover- ed that my friend had only landed tivo days before from the " Emerald Isle." He stated himself to be a man of substance, and had thouf^hts of purchasiufj a stock-farm in Pennsylvania. He had a very cor- rect eye (and he had but one) for the points of a good beast. We thought him a frank and pleasant man, well informed upon rural affairs, and I could have been well satisfied, had time and chance ad- mitted, of improving our acquaintance. ( 223 ) CHAPTER XIX. Character of the Americans — Jealousy of Independence — Ca- techetical Propensity — Pedantic Nomenclature — Peculiar Phraseology — Personal Habits — Servants or H elps — Respect for the Fair Sex — State of Religion and Morality — Ameri- can Constitution and Public Men — Misrepresentations of the Quarterly Review and Captain Basil Hall. Now, when about to re-embark, it may be asked, have I nothing- to say upon the manners and tem- per of the Americans ? I have much ; and anxi- ously do I wish that my pen were adequate to the task. It appears to me unfair to draw conclusions upon National Manners or Character from the as- sumption that all is perfection at home. Yet, I am afraid, something- of this nature pervades too many of our late productions on America. I bear no ma- lice, nor do I entertain any desire to quiz; but nei- ther will I insult the Citizens of the States with ful- some adulation, nor with protestations of candour and good will, which they have too much reason to translate into jealousy and spleen — " Timeo Danaos, et dona ferentes." Believing myself to have scanned them, upon the whole, passably well, and having never got foul of Jonathan save upon one occasion, I will hazard a guess or two, and trust to his candour if I fail. 224 JEALOUSY OF INDEPENDENCE. In the very foremost rank of an American's pecu- liarities stands liis assertion of Independence. Sure never did soldier strut in scarlet, or bedecked with orders, half so jealous of his honour, as a citizen of the States does at all times feel upon this tender point; and should it be occasionally pressed to an in- convenient excess, the strang-er will do well to remem- ber that, historically speaking', their national existence is but of yesterday, and that the Sons of Columbia are to be reg-arded somewhat in the light of young men recently put in possession of unbounded wealth. Near akin to, and the offspring- of this feeling, is a certain love of display too frequently met with, and which undoubtedly tends to excite a portion of ri- dicule and disgust. An American presumes the whole world to be equally versed in the affairs and occurrences of his country, as he is himself. Perambulating one day the deck of a steam-boat, a fellow-passenger inquired of me, with an air of much anxiety, " What we really thouglit, in the old country, of the death of their two Presidents ?" The question was to me a poser, nor could I for my life guess what he was at. By a little civil evasion, however, I managed to ex- tract the answer from himself, and in the Cliapter of Chances, the circumstance was certainly to be regis- tered as strange. The 4th of July, as we all know, is the great anniversary of the Declaration of Inde- pendence in the States. Since that event occurred, four Presidents have died, viz. Washington, Adams, Jefferson, and Monroe. Of these, the three last TENDENCY TO ROAM. 225 have expired upon the 4th of July. But what my Yankee friend especially alluded to, was the death of Adams and of Jefferson. These statesmen had been long estranged from each otlier, and being now at a very advanced age, mutual friends brought about a reconciliation, that they might go down to their graves in peace. An arrangement was ac- cordingly made for this Christian purpose, and a meeting was fixed for the then ensuing 4th of July. Upon that identical morning, both of these indivi- duals breathed their last. — But to return. Again and again did my ears ring with " We are the hap- piest people in the world, Sir ;" and, although I felt no desire to gainsay or deny the fact, still the tone bordered so closely upon self-adulation, that I must acknowledge it did sometimes raise the old country mmis bile. With all this love of country, too, it appears somewhat anomalous, that wheresoever the bump of adhesiveness may be found, in vain will the disciples of Spurzheim search for it upon the cranium of an Ame- rican. However valuable, liowever beautiful, may be his estate, however endeared as the scene of youthful enjoyment, or of the more sober avocations of maturer years, let but a tempting offer present it- self, and he yields it without a sigh. It is difficult to analyze this peculiarity. Perhaps it originates, in some measvu-e, from the absence of those rights of primogeniture, which bind us so forcibly to our pa- ternal acres. Probably, too, it is increased by tliat spirit of commercial enterprize, naturally engendered 226 CATECHETICAL PKOPENSITY. by the perpetual influx of strangers, and the bound- less tracts of fertile land which thoir continent af- fords. Next in order, I think, comes the catechetical pro- pensity, so grievously offensive to some British tra- vellers in the States ; and truly, if a stranger reckons upon escaping such an ordeal, he reckons without his host. Let us, however, coolly reflect upon the com- parative seclusion in which so many inhabitants of America are compelled to live. Let us bear in re- niend)rance, what a precious morceau a wliite man proves upon the banks of the Niger,— aye, or even a real London master or miss, in remote corners of our own laud, — and peradventure, if in tolerable o-ood humour, we may somewhat extenuate the of- fence, and lighten the penance, which a stranger m America must expect to undergo. For myself, I al- ways took it easy, and, in return, uniformly expe- rienced the most hearty goodwill, in affording or in procuring me information of every kind. In the heavy catalogue of national offences, Ave have ofttimes found recorded a protest against those mag- nificent names appended to places of little note, and in fact to the crime of pedantry in general. This charge, I am afraid, we must admit. Not that the world in general can be said to have a just right to animadvert upon the nomenclature which a nation may see fit to adopt. But, really, it cannot but ex- cite a smile, when we meet with luunlets, insignifi- cant at present, and without any reasonable prospect of much extension, figuring under the imposing ap- PEDANTIC NOMENCLATURE. 227 pellatives of Athens and of Rome, Paris and Vienna, Madrid and Lisbon, Cairo and Delhi, &c. &c. The vagaries of land-surveyors and of land speculators, to whom these absurdities are ascribed, deserve se- rious reprobation, and, in my humble opinion, are worthy of legislative intei'ference ; for what can any man think of the good sense or good taste of a peo- ple, who submit to have their letters addressed to them at such post-towns as Brutus and Buckram, Butterfly and Byron, Hector and Head of Cowneck, Ossian and Oyster Ponds, with many such prepos- terous et cceteras. And again, in casting our eye upon the course of the interesting Su^quehannah, and tracing its tributary rills, who will not revolt with horror at finding it debased by the odious creek of Yellow Breeches pouring into the classic stream ? Tliese are matters, however, of comparatively minor importance, when we look to their literary trans- gressions. That America can boast of pure and ele- gant writers, is sufficiently well known. But it is no less certain, that, from a sturdy contempt of words purely English, or from some other cause, pedantry in its worst form may be occasionally discovered. Take an example, which I should reckon a fair one, and which came quite accidentally in ray way. Mr Schoolcraft, apparently a man of education and science, attached to a Government Expedition, which visited the North- Western Territory in 1820, has published a very interesting account of the tour. In this work, at p. 277, may be read the details of a p2 228 YANKEE PHUASEOLOGY. Buffalo Hunt, in wliich the author sees fit to express himself as follows : — " All who had guns adapted for the purpose, sal- lied forth in separate parties upon the Prairie, while those who felt less ambition to sig-nalise themselves, or were more illy accoutred, remained upon an emi- nence," <iv:c. Now, really, in whatever contempt Mr S. may please to hold our mutual mother tongue, we will ap- peal to his candour and good taste, whether he has not proved himself more illy accoutred, by the substi- tute he has chosen, for what, as an Irishman might say, would have been far better, had it been worse. The coinage of new words, and peculiar applica- tion of old ones, has been the fruitful theme of mirth to John Bull. Of these, some are certainly odd enough, but in most instances novelty of application constitutes the only novelty that exists. Something original does, however, occasionally meet your ear. A word in one of Cooper's novels had struck my fancy, and seemed to be one not very likely to oc- cur. A few days, however, after reaching New York, a grave and sententious gentleman in the ho- tel was detailing to me the desolation of the city during the last visitation of yellow fever, and de- scribing the barricade which extended quite across the town, separating the living from the dead. " I assure you, sir," he said, MMth a most portentous as- pect, " it was monstrous pokerish.'^ The living adaptation of a phrase, \yhich I had never thought of YANKEE PHRASEOLOGY. 229 being brought into use, had well nigh overset the gravity which my narrator and his subject demanded. Talk to an American, or rather recount something to him, and he responds with many a nasal " Possi- ble" " I declare," or " Tliat's a fact;" all civil expres- sions of assent or of interest felt in your communi- cations ; and what are such expressions but syno- nyms of " Really" " 'Pon my word" " You dont say so" &c. current among ourselves. A coachman in- quires, perhaps, if his passengers are all on board, which sounds odd enough ; and if a steward or a ca- bin-boy wishes to be very civil and smart, he assures you that he is going right up or right off to do your errand. Shops are termed Stores, and these again figure under the respective designations of John Tomkins's Grocery, Bakery, Bindery, or even Wig- gery, as the case may be ; and why not ? Such ex- pressions sufficiently serve their purpose, and I see no ground for being jocose upon the subject. It is not unusual to find Americans indulging a very flowery phraseology upon ordinary enough oc- casions. Some officers related to me the capture of a young American captain, last war. He had crossed a ravine, in front of the British line, with sufficient gallantry, but without having been followed by his men, and there found himself solus with some rather inconvenient neighbours. A shot from one of our skirmishers, quickly brought him, a woimded pri- soner, into the British Camp. Recounting his mis- hap, and inveighing against the defection of his men, 230 PERSONAL HABITS. he exclaimed, " When I found, sir, tliat I was all alone, Omnipotent Jupiter ! how I did strahe it." Take another example of metaphoric flight. Not long since, a British officer, in Kingston, was pur- chasing a horse from an American dealer. The va- rious perfections having been descanted upon in such terms as are commonly in use ; " Now, sir," quoth the Yankee, in language more replete with point than with propriety, " if you would have a horse to sleep upon, don't buy him ; but if you would have a creature to carry you through h without singe- ing the feather in your cap, there he stands." And now, I believe it is time that I should advert to those personal habits which have been so severely and universally reprobated, nor is it possible to of- fer any sufficient apology for the freedoms too com- monly used. The liberal use of tobacco, arising from its native abundance, and its utility in a newly set- tled country. With the originally rough and unpo- lished character of American society, are causes which have evidently engendered the practices which we decry. Sometimes I could imagine that the same jealousy of foreign interference which is felt in more important aff"airs, was not altogether without its influence here. Many of the older citizens live in the most profound ignorance of any impropriety in the act. I was told of a certain old Dutch go- vernor, who happened to visit a fine lady, with a very fine drawing-room, and who found, for reasons unknown to him, an elegant jsipanned box placed PERSONAL HABITS. 231 beside his chair. Seated in form, the qidd began to roll, and the lady to tremble for her Brussels. The great man looked askance at the little box, and then gravely discharged his shower on the other side. Nothing dismayed, the dame preserved her temper, and, by an adroit pedestrian movement, transferred the article to what seemed to be the favourite side. Anon the mouth of the Dutchman filled : again he looked, and perceiving the change, so ingeniously efi^ected, with the most pei-fect simplicity, exclaimed, " Really, madam, if you don't put away that pretty box, I guess I'll spit in it." I think the Americans will gradually, perhaps ra- pidly, abandon these habits, but certainly the acri- monious remarks of foreigners will not accelerate the day. In many respects, they are scrupulously clean- ly and particular. When travelling, I often re- marked the unvarying practice of the most ordinary persons, in their daily changes of linen, &c. ; while in the humble mansions, you are sure to find the ta- ble linen, &c. tidy and clean. Salt-spoons were fre- quently awanting on the road, and the substitution of knives was adopted ; but in the utmost hurry and scramble of a numerous party, I saw no man ever help himself to butter, except with the knife spe- cially allotted for the purpose. These are trifling matters, but still they bear upon the question, and still I would urge the necessity of remembering, that what is new may yet be neither inconvenient nor wrong, where custom has sanctioned its adoption. John Bull, seated, perhaps for the first time in his 232 PERSONAL HABITS. life upon a hard-bottomed A\^indsor cliair, and at a breakfast table with fifty or a hundred total strangers, is somewhat put about. The clatter, and marvellous celerity of mastication, />re#/y considerahh/ annoy him ; while, in lieu of smart waiters, a set of grinning Negroes, in snow-white garments, minister to his wants. He looks round for an egg-cup, and lo ! a wine-glass, like a half-pint, is presented to him. In this he vainly essays to poise his e^^, until, casting his eye across the table, he perceives that his neigh- bour has already disposed of a couple, by turning the contents into the glass, and the shells into the slop- basin. Getting over the aifair of the e^^, he puts in his claim to a beefsteak, or rather to a portion, that article commonly rivalling, in regard to size, the top of a lady's work table, and has just, much to his satisfaction, commenced his attack, when again he is arrested by an offer of some sddce, and a kind Yankee proffers him, at the same time, a plate of very questionable looking stuff", which, should his complacency or curiosity induce him to accept, proves — Oh I ye shades of Apicius and of Kitche- ner ! positively to he apj)les in preserve. These mat- ters are no doubt, jinnoying ; but yet we ought not to be over hasty in our criticisms, nor pronounce dog- matically upon the comforts of foreigners, until we have looked more soberly at home. Domestic attendants, those fruitful agents of com- fort or of torment, form by no means the most agreeable ingredients of an American household. It cannot bo expected, in a land where so many DOMESTIC ATTENDANTS. 233 openings present themselves for securing an inde- pendence, that those ties can exist, which, in Britain, carry domestics through years of service, and almost identify them with the family itself. Such things are not to be looked for in the States for generations to come. But I do not believe that matters are in reality nearly so bad as have been represented. Many respectable friends assured me, and my per- sonal observation concurred, that the difficulties of procuring and of managing domestics have been greatly exaggerated. You must lay your account Avith frequent changes, which are certainly unplea- sant, but still the supply is found, and by a proper admixture of firmness and of kindness, due obedience and respect will generally be secured. In the newly settled regions of the West, tlie difficulty is necessa- rily enhanced and the discomfort augmented; but this is just one of the desagremens which an Ohio or Michigan settler must take into account. Where they fail to do so, disappointment and annoyance must follow. In the families of the ricli you en- counter no parti-coloured fops, with loads of lace and livery buttons ; but you meet with genteel, obli- ging, and respectable attendants, frequently from the continent of Europe ; and in ordinary families or public hotels, &c. men of colour, i. e. Blacks, are the usual lielps. From none did I ever receive an un- civil word or meet witli a sulky look. I was civil to them, and they were at all times civil and ser- viceable to me. But we are told no man dares to call one of his attendants servant. Perhaps such a 234 RESPECT FOR THE LADIES. term might give ofl'ence : I know not. But let us think for a moment how rarely have we occasion, at home, to cull on Jack or Tom, by such a designa- tion. Tlie insidious and unreasonable prejudice which too generally prevails in America against un- happy Negroes, and a dread upon the part of those who are free, of being classed with their less fortu- nate brethren, contributes greatly to a dislike of the term servant in the States, which is there considered as nearly synonymous with slave. It has surprized me a good deal in some recent pub- lications, to observe an insinuation brought against the Americans, of rude indifference towards the softer sex. So totally different was my impression, that over and over again in my note-book, I find a reflexion recorded, that America is the very Para- dise for ladies, and that both in public and in private they seem to be treated as a sort of pets. The sole contx-ol of the household appeared to be given up to them, but severe and laborious duties were never exacted. In public conveyances the most scrupulous deference was at all times paid to the female traveller, and in an especial degree if she chanced to be without a male conij)anion or friend. In a late clever pub- lication, we Jiave had a picture given us of an Ame- rican ball-room, where the ladies were left to flirt their fans, while the gentlemen retired to a comfort- able supper. I am bound to believe the fact, but I totally deny the general inference, that American beaux are so shamefully insensible to the comfort of their belles. In the case in question I am almost EESPKCT FOR THE LADIES. 235 sure that some particular cause must have occasioned the arrangement, seeing that it is at total variance vt'ith the tenderness and respect bestowed by Ame- ricans on their countrywomen. That Mrs Trollope may have personally met with indifference and dis- respect, I make little doubt. The tone of her work is that of disappointment and chagrin. Whether this may have proceeded from the failure of certain speculations in Cincinnati, or from the coolness which respectable female society in the States would most properly display towards the chum of an infidel and li- bertine Fanny Wright, are points of little moment, save to the lady herself. But all who delight in candour and honesty-must reprobate works, however smartly written, where sweeping inferences are drawn from isolated facts, and a prominence given in the foreground to features which, with any due regard to truth, could only have been delineated as existing in the most shadowy distance of the land- scape. I am strongly inclined to suspect that Mrs Trollope has either never mixed in good society in the States, or that she wilfully misrepresents it. Neither can I altogether pass over her Pencil Illus- trations of American manners. In common with most of her readers, I smiled over them, good easy man, under the simple belief, that she presented us with the fruit of her own observation and adven- tures. But how was the spell broken, and how did they dwindle in interest, when a hint reached me that these living pictures of offending Yankees posi- tively owed their existence to the labours of an ac- 2.10 STATE OF RELIGION. «!oiiiplislied fellow-passeng'er in the packet on her homeward voyag-e. My conviction remains unshaken, tliat the Americans value and delight in female so- ciety ; and it is to the gentle and winning influence of such agents, that I fondly look for an early aban- donment of habits, which truth txnd good-breeding nmst decidedly condemn. The state of religion in a nation is always deeply interesting, and some peculiar features distinguish in tins respect the United States. Here a church establishment has no existence. Each congregation, and of whatever sect, is strictly independent. It would ill become me, with the limited means of knowledge which I possess, to offer an opinion up- on so grave a subject. Strong arguments may be adduced in support of an established church, and perhaps no less forcible reasons adduced to condemn it. The remark of a citizen of New York regard- ing this point, seemed to me to be reasonable and just. " It is one thing," says he, " Sir, to start, ab initio, as we have done, without an established church, and another, and very different one, to pull down a venerable fabric, Aviiich has existed for ages, and has become incorporated witli the constitution itself." Wild and extravjigant fanatics have too fre- quently brought disgrace upon religion in the States, and Unitarianism has in many places made fearful strides. Still the conclusion to which I have come is favourable to the growth of pure and vital Chris- tianity in the populous and civilized portion of the Union. It is a point, however, which I would touch STATE OK REMGION. 237 M-ith diffidence, knowing the incompetency of a bird of passag-e like myself to enlarge upon such a sub- ject. I heard several orthodox and earnest preachers. I observed, in public and in private, a decent obser- vance of the Sabbath. The official papers of govern- ment uniformly recognise the superintending care of a beneficent God. No shops were to be seen open on the day of sacred rest, still less were theatres or places of amusement. Public travelling was not in general use, and the transmission of the mail on that day had been debated in the preceding session of Congress, where the question was lost, chiefly on the ground, that tlie Constitution forbade any inter- ference by government with matters of conscience. There can be no doubt, however, that Sabbath pro- fanation is practised in some quarters to a fearful extent. As regards the fruits of religion, there can be little question, that, taking them as z, people, the citizens of America are virtuous and exemplary. Conjugal infidelity is extremely rare, and in more than one of the States, is visited by fine and impri- sonment. In the large cities, at least of the Middle and Northern States, vice does not stalk abroad in that disgusting form, which may be said to deprive respectable females in Europe of the free enjoyment of our public spectacles and walks. Neither did I observe one solitary instance of filthy ribaldry on doors or walls, which so generally presents itself among ourselves. A great deal has been said re- garding the abuse of ardent spirits, and the terms Gin Sling, Mint Julops, Antifogmatics, Sec. have be- 238 STATE OP MORALITY. come identified with America itself. Now, whether the change has been brought about by Temperance Societies, or by other agents, I know not ; but I am bound to believe, that an alteration in the national propensity has been in some way effected, because I have to record, that, in travelling through many por- tions of the land, living much in public, c^c. J did not encounter one individual in a state of intoxication, and but one in a state of troublesome excitement. Nay, I must say more. Brandy, gin, <S:c. were day after day placed upon our board, ad libitum, and formed an item included in what each man had at any rate to pay for his repast. Spirits, even in these circumstances, were rarely in use, and never to a greater extent than what was prudent in quali- fying the water which was used. The stage-coach- men receive no gratuity from passengers, and as I frequently bothered them with questions, the only remnneration which J could tender was an in- vitation to take a glass of grog at the bar. Upon such occasions, no measure was in use. A decanter of spirits was put into the coachees hand, to please his palate, and never did I catch one putting in more Santa Cruz than would have filled a very moderate wine-glass, evincing a degree of self-restraint, which I suspect few of the same class in Britain would have displayed. The subject of crime in general, and the peculia- rities of the American Penal Code, have been fre- quently discussed. It would be presumptuous in me to hazard remarks upon so weighty a subject. Ca- ATROCIOUS PIRATE. 239 pital punishments rarely take place, though such are by no means unknown. The effect created is cor- responding- to the rarity of the event. Two indivi- duals, a White and a Negro, suffered for piracy and murder, during my visit to the States, and their story was the universal topic for some weeks. Of these, the white was a character of peculiar atrocity, and seemed as if he had been born a child of blood. I received the following account from a gentleman who had his information direct from the Rev. Mr Jones, of Rhode Island. When Gibbs lay under sentence of death, Mr J. was surprised by receiving an earnest request to visit him at New York. Although quite at a loss to understand why he should have been called upon, he hesitated not to take the jour- ney. When left alone with the prisoner, anxious inquiries were made regarding the welfare of three most respectable ladies in Newport, well known to Mr J. and certain circumstances disclosed which sa- tisfied him at once, that the wretched criminal was a favourite and only brother of these ladies, and for whom the family had gone into mourning about twelve years preceding. At that time a letter reached Newport, purporting to be from a shipmate, and stating the sudden death of their brother, by fever, in the West Indies. This letter Gibbs had himself fabricated, when he changed his name and adopted a lawless life, that all trace of his career might cease, and which henceforth became an end- less scene of pillage and of blood. The fearful rule by which he acted was, that dead men tell no tales ; 2-JO OBLIGING DISPOSITION OF AMERICANS. and after his confessions were carefully scrutinized, and compared with mercantile records, there seems no reason to doubt, that forty vessels had fallen in- to his hands, and that of these twenty were scuttled, and every human being, passengers and crew, mur- dered in cold blood. But to return. A spirit of kindliness and of mutual accommoda- tion may be said to prevail, in my opinion, very ge- nerallv among the citizens, and opportunities of re- marking such, it will be allowed, frecjuently occur to the traveller. The Americans delight in locomo- tion, and are perhaps on that account more than usually cheery upon the road. But good-liumour, and an inclination to laugh avray all difficulties and annoyances, were certainly characteristic features ; and in regard to an obliging disposition, I need only refer to what occurred to myself at Queenston and at Blackrock. In the latter case, it would be pre- posterous to suppose, that the whole charity of the country had been concentrated in the good fellow Avho helped me in my dilemma; and where or when, 1 would ask, would a traveller in Britain have met with a total stranger, equally independent as him- self, to volunteer the transport of a huge portman- teau for a considerable distance, out of pure compas- sion, and look for no recompense save his grateful thanks ? As respects public affairs, I have certainly no thoughts of entering upon comparisons between the American and British constitutions ; and the citizens AMERICAN CONSTITUTION. 241 of botli will do well to be moderate in their mutual praises or abuse. The great outline is in many re- spects alike, — the diflFerence will be chiefly found in the machinery which works them. If we look to the President, the Senate, and House of Congress, in the one, we are immediately reminded of the King, the House of Lords, and the House of Com- mons, in the othei'. No doubt the real circumstances of each materially diflfer, but still the similitude pre- vails. Both nations are free from the curse of des- potism. Both enjoy the trial by jury. When the American is taunted with the toleration of slavery in his boasted land of freedom, aye at the very gates of his Hall of Congress, whose walls may be rever- berating at once to the clang of chains, and to elo- quent addresses upon the heaven-born freedom of man, let the Briton coolly and dispassionately re- flect, how difficult it is, upon abstract principle, to defend the necessity of placing upon the Throne, an individual, (we may suppose,) weak and wicked to excess, solely because he has been born in the royal line. Our system of impressment too, however needful, as naval commanders state, appears to the American to be nothing short of brutal outrage. It is a painful subject, and I have frequently been hurt by the unfeeling levity with which it is sometimes treated. It is but lately that I observed in the pages of a gallant Captain, who devotes his leisure hours to spinning yarns for the public, a right merry tale compounded of the living agony of some unhappy landsmen, who had never until that voyage been at Q 242 EQUALITY. sea, and wlioni he aided in seizing from a merchant vessel off New York, to which they were bound. Two of the luunber were honest Yorkshire farmers, one an unhappy schoolmaster from the laud of cakes, and the others, kind-hearted Irishmen, thus com- pelled to desert their Avives and families, on the eve of landing, helpless strangers, on a foreign strand. The American plumes himself upon the equality maintained in his beloved laud, and the absence of those aristocratic distinctions, of which we are prone to boast. True it is, that, in reference to state af- fairs, all citizens are equal ; but should any one infer from this, that there was no virtual gradation of rank, he would be grievously in error. Stars and ribbons, shields and escutcheons, are indeed a-waut- ing; but the family of Exciusives will be quite as easily recognised in Philadelphia or in New York, as in the sacred precincts of St James's. And if we pry into the political circle, should a British Cabinet be sometimes upset, by what we are accustomed to call " Back Stairs injiucnce," there is a certain imp in tlie States known by the name of " Caais," who occasionally jdays strange pranks, and brings about strange things, by means whicli the uiiiiiitinted in vain labour to exj)laiu. \Vealtli, and what we may term cii'cumstautial influence, have already made pro- gress, and will continue to grow with the population and prosperity of the land. I would offer no insult to the American artizan ; but human nature is alike in every clime, and here as elsewhere, the manufac- turer who may employ some hundreds of weU VOTE BY BALLOT. 243 paid, well used and happy men, must inevitably ac- quire a moral tie over their affections and esteem, which, in all public questions, will most naturally and fitly lead tiiem to consult his wishes and his views. This remai-k applies of course, to the ordinary cur- rent of affairs. Independent men, and there are none more independent than American artizans, will submit to no outrage upon public feeling oi" public weal. A good deal has been said in England uj)on the adoption of the ballot, as a mean of securing personal freedom to electors. In my opinion it is mere hum- bug, and from what I could learn, has proved in the States an absolute failure, as regards secrecy or con- cealment. Public feeling at all times, and as regards all things, in a land of freedom, must ever prove the best and the surest check. And I would ask, where is the landlord, or the master manufacturer in Britain, who would dare to tyrannize or wantonly abuse the power he may possess ? Public indignation would speedily hold him up to ridicule and contempt. The political condition of the United States be- comes every day a subject of deeper interest to themselves and to the world. A breaking up of the Union has been broached, as an event approaching ; and no doubt the interests of the Southern States, may, in some respects, be considered in collision with the rest. Some have even laid it down in geo- graphical arrangement, and the Alleghany mountains have been selected as a line of demai-cation. Such speculations, however, must be considei'ed crudo q2 244 ABHORRENCE OF NEGROES. and premature. Should such an event indeed take place at a future day, I trust it will be brought about in a sincere spirit of mutual concession, freed from all angry and vindictive feelings ; and above all, with an earnest and honest desire to perpetuate and invio-orate those political institutions which have fos- tered and promoted in so remarkable a manner their prosperity as a nation. Come when it may, slavery must form a potent ingredient in the question ; and all must admit that it is surrounded with many diffi- culties. There exists in America an abhorrence of Neo-ro blood, sufficiently glaring even to the passing stranger ; and lamentably inconsistent with those sounds of freedom and independence echoed on every side. I myself heard a stage-coach proprie- tor formally apologize to his passengers, for having permitted a place to be secured for a poor Negro girl, who heard all he said, and shrunk abashed from the disgust so evidently shewn upon her entrance. I presvimed her to be free, as her appearance was hi«>-hly respectable in regard to dress and demeanour, and I in vain endeavoured to shew her some civility. My fellow-travellers stared at me in dismay, and the poor firl was herself so nervously distressed, that I was glad to leave her undisturbed. Mr B , an American barrister, stated, that last year, in the prin- cipal boarding-house of Mobile, in Alabama, while his own sister was an inmate, a gentleman of wealth and of most agreeable manners happened to arrive, and was made welcome by all. In a few days a dis- covery was by some chance made, that he had a SALARIES OF PUBLIC OFFICERS. 245 dash of Negro blood in his veins, though quite im- perceptible in his looks, and for that reason alone, it was rudely insisted upon that the landlord should give him notice to remove. These are, indeed, foul blotches, and, in one form or another, the day of re- tribution will arrive. The Americans are a busy and an enterprising people ; and whether in conducting public works, or in transacting their own private aifairs, it is asto- nishing to observe their industry and zeal. In diplo- macy they must be acknowledged to excel. We do not, it is true, find splendid hotels, nor extravagant establishments, the refuge of some needy Peer, or embarrassed Commoner ; but while John Bull pays for such things, a humble individual with a very moderate allowance, is dispatched from Washington, and quickly obtains redress of grievances from the proudest potentate or the deepest Machiavel in Eu- rope. In regard to the salaries of their public offi- cers, it has been thought, and probably with justice, that in America they are too low. In relation to Britain, I believe we may fairly state the amount t(t be in dollars which with us is paid in pounds. Very unfair descriptions have been given of public life and of publicmeu in the States. Locality makes, in general, the difference between falsehood and truth. Take the statesmen of Washington, and you will find them to differ in but a trifling degree from what is cur- rent in Downing Street or Whitehall. Go into the rude and newly settled regions of the west, and no doubt a very different scene awaits us. But can it be call- 216 UNFAIR DESCRIPTION OF THE AMERICANS. ed lionouniMc or just to cotifoutul the two? A gontlcnmu told ine, tliat hapixMiiufr to outer the House of Assembly at Coliiinbus, he found the Le- gislators warmly engaged in debate upon the mo- mentous question, " Whether they should sit in council with ha/s off" or hats on? It was finally car- ried that each should do as to himself seemed best. At India-nopolis, the same gentleman found three Members in f/ie House fjuictly seated without coats or vest, and attired in red worsted sliirts. Could any honest man, however, reconcile it to his conscience to quote such occurrences, as fair samples of public men and of Legislative Assemblies in the States ? Assuredly he could not. Time will rapidly alter the complexion of affairs in these infant States, and re- finement will speedily follow. I am not sure, whe- ther in some cases, a love of popularity may not give rise to Juibits rather uncouth and rude. Gene- ral Porter, who had filled the office of Secretary of War, resides at Buffalo. A gentleman told me that he was introduced, by a mutual friend, to the Ex-secretary, whom they met, in a waggoner's frock, actually driving Iiis own team to the mill. This was republican simplicity indeed ; and sup- posing it to be sincere, nuist be allowed to rival Cincinnatus himself. It is a matter of regret that we should find, in some rather influential quarters, a disposition to sneer at the United States, and to foster a spirit of rancour between two great nations, who are bound by every tie to support and to cherish one another. QUARTERLY KEVIEw's BIISREPKESENTATIONS. 247 Witliout Stopping- to analyze Tariffs, or to cavil about boundary lines, which are of little actual worth, we may venture to assert, that, should Chris- tianity and civil liberty be abandoned by the rest of the world, there is reason to believe that the United States and Great Britain will be I'eady to perish in their support. A certain periodical, pretty well known for its high Tory principles, has seen fit to draw some ex- traordinary, and, I conceive, unsound infei-ences re- garding- the expenditure of the United States, which deserve exposition from an abler pen than mine. * I would pass over in contempt the sneering tone ill which is noticed the annual allowance made to the Chief Magistrate of the nation ; but when the writer insists upon adding to the budget, what he calls, " a very heavy class of disbursements, imder the control of the separate state governments, and ge- nerally kept out of view," I would presume to inquire, whether in drawing up a schedule of the expenditure of the British empire, he is disposed to add a few such items, as our paupers, our jails, our bridewells, our roads, canals, harbours, &c. &c., being inclined to suspect that some such classification will be found requisite, ere a fair parallel can be drawn between the expenditure of the two nations. Again we find this Anti-Columbian assuming that the civil expenditure of the United States must increase pro rato with the population, — an assump- * See Quarterly Keview, January 1832. 248 MISREPRESENTATIONS OF tion which amounts to this, that, because my neigh- bour chooses to lavish ten thousand pounds a-year in supporting a family of twenty persons, ergo and ex necessitate, I am precluded from maintaining my household (alike in number) upon the tithe of that sum. Or tiiat because America, yet in childhood, conducted lier affairs with tolerable wisdom and prudence, we have only to await a period of maturer age, when we shall infallibly find her playing the fool. I shall not enter upon the Ecclesiastical or Legal Departments, as it would be tedious to discuss here the statemeuts upon the branches exhibited in the Quarterly, but will merely notice one essential feature, -which has been omitted, viz. that, while the judges have certain fixed salaries, the expense of law courts is mainly borne by those only who indulge in litigation, or enjoy its protection, and that the al- lowance to the clergy bears a relation to the work done, so widely different from what our establish- ment in England displays, that the whole aspect of the question is changed, and in fact had far better never have been mooted by a true friend of our church, except with a view to wholesome and time- ous amendment. When upon the subject of this review, I will take leave to tender a word of advice to Captain Basil Hall regarding his statistics. In his North Ame- rican travels, he states that each citizen of Pennsyl- vania is assessed in the sum of eiyht shillings and a penny Sterling for public taxes or government expenses. CAPTAIN BASIL HALL. 249 Now this lie has done in jjessima Jide, after having been put in possession of the true amount, which does not exceed one shilling and twopence. This statement, I am aware, requires explanation, and I shall readily afford mine, leaving it to the Captain, should he hear of the charge, to gratify the public with his. When preparing his work. Captain H — — applied to a most intelligent and upright individual in the States to procure for him an account of the sums levied and expended by different States, with the view of contrasting America and Britain in re- gard to the burdens laid upon the inhabitants of each. In the communication made, as regards Penn- sylvania, where, ex facie, a very large expenditure appeared, a special memento was given to Captain H., reminding him, that the main portion of this out- lay was a temporary one, upon canals and railroads, then constructing to the extent of 800 miles, and in which 4000 men were employed. These works, it was sufficiently clear, would not only prove of the greatest indirect benefit, but must undoubtedly yield a handsome direct revenue to the State. With all this before him. Captain H. was very reasonably ex- pected to mention the fact. He has not thought fit to do so, but throws the whole together without one word of explanation, and deduces the above sum of 8s. Id. as the yearly exaction from each citizen of Pennsylvania towards the public expense. Can it be a matter of surprize that conduct such as this should meet with reprobation and contempt, w.here the inaccuracy and unfairness are in every 250 MISUKPRESENTATIONS. man's power to detfct. I am (jiiite prepared to enter more minutely into tliis matter, should there be need. By withliolding the necessary explanation accompanying such an important document, an author may be fairly said to forfeit public confi- dence and trust ; and I shall only add, that it will afford me most sincere pleasure to offer Captain Hall an apology, upon receiving satisfactory evi- dence that I have been led into error or mistake. ( 251 ) CHAPTER XX. Embark in tlie George Canning for England — Account of Great Sea Serpent confirmed — Arrive at liiverpool. Upon Wednesday, June 8th, a delightful morn- ing", I embarked with my fellow-passengers, eight in number, on board of a steamer, by which we were conveyed down the bay to the George Canning, and as we had no female passengers, I got myself, by the kind suggestion of Captain AUeyn, comfortably stowed away in a lady's^ berth. The weather was pleasant, but ratlier calm for making way. On the 10th we had made little more than fifty miles from land. The Francis of Greenock sailed along with us from New York. We soon parted company, and saw no more of her till I found her, on my ar- rival from Liverpool, safe in the Clyde, where she had just come to anchor. Our party consisted of mercantile gentlemen, chiefly English, from South America, and sad was the picture they drew of those unhappy provinces. Bolivar, to me a hero of romance, I found, by their unquestionable testimony, convicted of public and of private vices, which rendered his memory odious and vile. Religion is there a mere conformity to supersti- tious rites, and even then is generally confined to the 252 STATK OF SOUTH AMKRICA. females aiul to the people of colour. The fountain of justice is utterly corrupted, and judg-meuts are noto- riously sold to the highest bidder. Liberty has no other meaning save a licence to do as every man may list. The soldier understands it to mean a re- lease from civil controul ; the people, an exemption from any impost or taxes ; the priest, an absence of all check upon the power of the Church. A bitter enmity exists between the remnant of the native Americans and the Negro race, which alone pre- vents the latter from ridding themselves by violence of their chains. Altogether, it was a sickening ac- count of a country, blessed as they all agreed it was, with a climate and a soil of the choicest description. Wednesday, I5th. — We have been a week at sea, and our party proves to be remarkably pleasant. None have been unwell, and the good cheer is in constant requisition. " We eat, and drink, and sleep. What then ? We drink, and eat, and sleep again." I think there is a strong tendency on board of ship to dream : probably the full living, the want of ordinary exercise, and the motion of the vessel, may all contribute. The George Canning is a delightful vessel, and comfortably appointed in all respects. Captain Al- leyn is most polite and attentive to his guests, and has every thing well regulated and in good order. Saturday 18th. — We crossed part of the Great Bank to-day, and the weather is foggy and cold. The thermometer is 30° below what we left it at SEA SERPENT. 253 New York. It was then 92°, and to-day 42°. When upon the Banks there is a difference of 15° or 20° below the temperature when out of soundings. We have had it so low as 40°, and Captain Alleyn sus- pects the vicinity of ice-bergs. When the water in- dicates a temperature below 40°, it becomes neces- sary to look out sharply for ice. Friday, 24th. — We have now a fine south-west wind, and our ship is cutting her way in gallant style. 243 miles, by the log, in the last twenty- four hours. Myriads of molluscse are passing us every moment, and we have been never weary in admiring the shoals of small porpoises, contending, as it were, in speed with the vessel. They shoot, like racers, from stern to stem, and then renew their course over and over again ; the prismatic colours on their sides glistening in endless variety and beauty. Wlio can tell the wonders of the mighty deep ? Of these, one had always impressed my mind as a fiction. When asking Captain Alleyn, in a jocular manner, one day, if he had ever met with any man, who pretended to have seen the Sea-Serpent, how great was my surprise to have his serious reply, " Why, sir, I have seen it myself, and all my crew." He then stated, that, in January 1820, he was re- turning from Batavia, and was running, with a light air, along the shore of Long Island, when he saw, in broad day, an object on the surface of the sea, about a mile from the ship, which at first he sup- posed to be a whale. On taking the glass, however, he at once discovered it to be totally difl:*erent. The 254 SEA SERPENT. head lay flat, with a snout, ratlier under the surface of the water; tlie hack was arched, and the knobs of the vertebra; quite distinct, the tail was long- and ta- pering ; the end about three feet broad ; and the po- sition horizontal. It attracted at once the notice of every man as he came on deck; and Captain Alleyn, as well as his crew, had all been accustomed to laugh at the story of the serpent. For a full half hour they contemplated the monster; and, com])uting its length from the land beyond it, all agreed that it could not be less than the length of the vessel, which was 100 feet. As they neared it, the animal g'ot into motion, first towards the shore, and then, ma- king an immense sweep, and leaving a wake, as Cap- tain Alleyn said, like a frigate, it disappeared, leav- ing the water in a state of commotion. I find also that the serpent was seen by the packet ship Silas Richards, about five years ago, off Nan- tucket ; and Mr Orr, one of our passengers, inform- ed me, that an acquaintance of his was on board, a man who was particularly incredulous of wonders, but who nuidily concurred in the certificate signed upon the subject. Our frequent calms led us to con- verse upon the application of steam to the Atlantic. Captain Alleyn does not consider it likely to succeed. It is in a dead calm alone that they would be effec- tive, as they could not stem the Atlantic to much purpose (in his opinion) against a head wind. The paddles, and machinery, and fuel, would oc- cupy so much of the mercantile stowage, that the freight would depend too exclusively upon passen- ARRIVAL AT LIVERPOOL. 255 gers, wlio, again, would be shy of committing- them- selves for such a voyage to the hazards of steam and of fire. It has been ascertained, however, that a steam-vessel may navigate the Atlantic. The late Emperor Alexander having proclaimed a munificent recompense to the first that should reach St Peters- burgh, the citizens of Savannah, N. America, ap- peared to claim the reward. From some unexplained reason, however, it was not paid, and the steamer returned in safety to her native shores, Friday, July \st. — This is our twenty-third day, and at 12 noon we descried the Irish coast. Captain Alleyn ran from Sandy Hook to Cape Clear, in April 1830, in thirteen days. The New York made the whole passage to Liverpool in fifteen days and six hours. Upon an average of several years, it has been ascertained, pretty correctly, that the passage from Liverpool may be taken at thirty-five days, and from New York at twenty-three and some hours. We did not come to anchor in the Mersey until the morning of the 4th, being twenty-six days of as pleasant navigation as any man could have desired. It may be presumed that I made but a short sojourn in Liverpool. I sailed in the steamer for Glasgow on the same evening, and reached home upon the 6th, in safety and comfort. Perhaps it may be use- ful to mention that my whole actual outlay was £145, of which about £10 were expended upon books and apparel. I have only to add a sentence of regret upon the 256 LOSS OF THE GEORGE CANNING. fate of the poor George Canning. On the second trip after the one which brouglit me home, this splendid vessel was totally wrecked upon the Ame- rican coast. The accident arose from fog ; and Captain Alleyn Avas in the act of wearing the ship when she struck. Sure I am that his anxiety and distress must have been great, but it would be no small consolation to him, that there was no loss of life, and that his passengers, with their luggage, were landed in safety. ( 257 ) PART II. [Having now brought to a conclusion my Notes, or Journal, I will submit a Statistical Communication, addressed to tbe Directors of the Highland Society, soon after my return to Scotland, in the hope that, as it is rather more special and minute, it may prove, perhaps, of some small use and advantage to intending emigrants.] In reference to a resolution of the Directors, which they did me the honour of transmitting, through their Secretary, upon the eve of my departure for America, I felt it my duty to furnish the following statement regarding the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, with such portions of the United States as came under my personal observation, or regarding which I acquired information from au- thentic sources during my excui'sion. R ( '258 ) Witlioiit reference to the precise route which 1 fol- lowed, ray observations were directed, 1st, To Lower Canada; 2d, To Upper Canada ; 3d, To the United States. In treating of these, my leading object has been to ascertain their respective advantages or disadvan- tages to emigrants from Britain. ( 259 ) CHAPTER I. Lower Canada — Climate — Soil — Agriculture — Markets—^ Upper Canada — Lumber- trade — Bay of Quinte — Value of Land — York — Canada Company. Lower Canada lies between 43° and 52° N. Lat., and 64° and 82° W. Long. To those ig-norant of the geographical position, there is something in the term Lower strongly indi- cative of a superiority in climate, which is by no means borne out by actual circumstances. Winter, in the Lower Province, wears a more severe and protracted form than it does on the great table-land above. Many decisive facts in confirmation of this might be adduced. I shall only mention, that wheat cannot here withstand the severity of winter, re- quiring to be sown in spring, and occasioning there- by both loss and inconvenience to the farmer in wet and late seasons ; while quails, or Virginian par- tridges, it may be observed, which abound in the Upper, are totally unknown in the Lower Province. The soil is generally a fertile clay, which has hardly been yet brought, in any instance, to the test of what it may produce. It is generally occupied in small possessions, which continue, with the exception r2 260 LOWER CANADA. of some large scignories and church-lands, to fritter more and more away, from the absence of a check in the law of primogeniture, and a want of enter- prize in the people, which might lead them to coun- teract this effect, by entering on new land. The ])opulation is chiefly French, and the religion Roman Catholic. The hahitons arc industrious, frugal, and contented ; but their condition, to say the least, is almost stationary, and the lial)its or practices of their fathers are far too scrupulously revered. In person they are rather good-looking, especially the men ; and to view them, clothed in their homespun drug- get frocks, with a physiognomy of absolute content, peering from imder the large hood so well fitted for a Canadian winter, is to obtain an assurance of un- questionable happiness and comfort. The numerous orchards and abundance of fruit, evince what steady and strong heat will produce, even with a winter of the most intense cold ; and while this supply contri- butes in a considerable measure to the wealth of the people, it adds in no small degree, with the aid of the sugar maple, to the enjoyments of a board in all respects plenteously furnished. The fine island of Montreal is covered with orchards, and in every quar- ter they present themselves in rich luxuriance. Notwithstanding, however, ()f these, and the many advantages which approximation to the sea-coast holds out, I should certainly not consider Lower Canada likely to realize the hopes of British settlers. A certain degree of political or national jealousy on the part of the French population, Mdiich regards AGRICULTURE. 261 Avitli suspicion and distrust the increase of British emigrants, cannot fail to harass and annoy. To many, tlie difference of religion, and scarcity of Protestant churches, will prove a drawback. To many more the preponderance of the French lan- guage, laws, and manners, will create a serious ob- stacle. Nor am I aware of any existing circum- stances, in the Lower Province, which can be said to counterbalance these objections. It is no doubt true, that many individual instances of prosperity are to be met with in Lower Canada, among agricultural settlers from Britain and Ireland ; but these must be viewed as exceptions, and not fol- lowed as a rule. Even the land-measure will somewhat tend to em- barrass a stranger, as it is the arpent (about one- fifth less than the English acre) which is in use, and the tenure and titles of his property will still more perplex him. I had an opportunity of seeing and conversing with several British emigrants, who either occupy or possess farms in Lower Canada, and the uniform conclusion to which all of them came, was an advice to look at the Upper Province, before I formed an opinion upon the eligibility of a settlement. I am quite aware that several of these individuals are prospering in a measure, which might possibly be curtailed, if too many farmers of a like stamp should become located beside them ; but I am equally satisfied that no such jealousy influenced the advice I received, and that the established convic- tion of all, who are experimentally acquainted with 262 LOWER CANADA. Canad.n, is in favour of the Upper Province, as a set- tlement for British agriculturists. I say agricultu- rists, because those emigrants who liave been accxis- tomed to live partly by fishing', will certainly succeed best in the maritime portion of our North American possessions. Emigrants who have obtained land near Quebec or Montreal, and who are industrious and active, profit, of course, very handsomely by the vicinity of these cities. Dairy produce brings in excellent returns, and every thing finds a market ; and although mere lo- cality cannot avail so much as formerly, when steam- navigation was unknown, still great advantages re- main to the occupier of land near large to\\iis. It is to be remarked, too, that the greater supply of farm-produce, occasioned by the introduction of steam-boats, has materially increased the consump- tion, and has thereby compensated to the farmer the fall in price, which necessarily followed. — Fresh butter, which sold, in 1817, for Is. 6d. per pound in Montreal, may now be had for 6d. In summer it is a perishable article, and must be sold when it comes to market. But hay, straw, potatoes, &c. and the very soil itself, are becoming, in the vicinity of ]Mon- treal, what an Angus farmer termed to me, " mis- chievously dear ;' and those who are in possession of farms in that vicinity will reap an abundant harvest. — My Angus friend, who seemed to be in the enjoy- ment of very easy circumstances, affords a proof, among hundreds, of what an industrious and steady AGRieUIiTURE. 263 man may do for himself in Canada. He came out in 1817, was wrecked in the Gulf of St Lawrence, suffered many hardships, and finally landed at Mont- real, devoid of every resoui'ce, save his own hands and g'ood spirits. He soon found employment, and in due time took a lease of a farm, which he finds to succeed extremely well. His wheat and potatoes, he says, are excellent ; oats, inferior. He cultivates green crops, taking mangel wurzel instead of tur- nips, which suflFer from the fly. He uses horses in preference to oxen; has iron-ploughs, and follows what he called a sor< of rotation, — 1st, Wheat; 2d, Green crop; 3d, Clover; 4th, Timothy for hay ; and, 5th, Pasture. Several farms are at this time to let in this quar- ter. The rent expected is 10s. or 12s. per acre. The Canadian farmers pursue the old Scottish practice of infield and outfield, taking crop after crop of grain from their fields, until nothing but weeds remain, and looking to Nature for that reno- vation which their own industry ought to have ef- fected. It may appear almost incredible, but I was assur- ed of the fact, that it was by no means unusual, as winter occupation among the habitans, to drive out dung from their farm-yards and deposit it upon the glassy surface of the St Lawrence, there to await the breaking up in spring, as a riddance from what they consider a worthless incumbrance. In tracing a route upwards from Montreal, the eve of an emigrant is speedily arrested by the junction 264 LOWER CANADA. of the Uttawas, or Grand River, falling- into the St Lawrence. I did not visit the settlements of this district, and do not therefore speak of them from personal observation ; but they are well known to be valuable, extensive, and increasing'. The Utta- was has, of late years, attracted the notice of Go- vernment, as a safe route for troops and stores to the Upper Province, in the event of war with the United States. Fn surveying its banks, and applying its course to this purpose, extensive tracts of fine land have been located, and several very promising settlements have been established. Of tliese, I may notice Perth, Richmond, and Lanark, the two for- mer chiefly coni[)osed of retired officers and reduced soldiers; the latter, of families from the manufactur- ing districts in the west of Scotland, who came out in 1820, and all, I believe, as communities, doing well. All of these were assisted and fostered by Govermnent. A military road communicates be- tween Uttawas and Kingston, upon Lake Ontario, a distance of 240 miles. The Rideau Canal passes through a part of the country between this line of road and the St Lawrence. The soil of this part of Canada is good ; but the country is flat, the lakes shallow, and the streams frequently sluggish, which jnust be necessarily ac- companied, for a time, with fever and ague to a greater extent than more airy and better watered si- tuations present. There can be no doubt, however, that the settlements already formed, and to be form- ed, in this quarter, will prosper. Government has UPPER CANADA. 265 done much for tbein by public works, which can Scarce fail to benefit the country, whether they do or do not effect the objects for which they were plan- ned ; and the steam communication upon the Uttawas with Montreal is already in operation. Upper Canada is situate between 42° and 52° N. Lat., and between 73" 30' W. Long., and, indeed, indefinite bounds to the west. Returning to the St Lawrence, we enter the Up- per Province, the Uttawas here forming tlie bound- ary line. As we ascend the river, we find nume- rous settlers, and thousands of acres well adapted for the farmer. One of the first settlements we meet with is the Glengarry district, an extensive tract of good land, enjoying the advantages of water carriage. The language, the customs, the native courage of their Celtic sires, still distinguish the clan, though, at the same time, we are afraid, accompa- nied by some of those less profitable traits which stamp the Highlander as more at home in wielding the claymoi'e, or extracting the mountain-dew, than in guiding the ploughshare to slow but certain re- sults. The farms are but indiiferently improved, considering the advantages they have enjoyed ; and much valuable time is expended in the depths of the forest, in a demi-savage life, cutting and preparing timber for the lumber merchant, which, if steadily devoted to the cultivation of the land, would certain- ly be attended with infinitely greater benefit, both in a physical and moral point of view. 266 LOWER CANADA. Very conflicting opinions exist in Canada regard- ing the Inmher-trade, and the subject was frequent- ly discussed at tliis period, from the hite proposal of ministers to lower the duties upon Baltic timber. It is certain that a large circulation is occasioned by the trade, perhaps a million Sterling, in one way or other, and that it employs, during winter, many who may gain perhaps £ 20 for their winter labour, when nothing else could be done. It benefits the farmer too, by bringing a market for produce to his door. So far, all looks well ; but there is no doubt, that those engaged in preparing timber for this trade, being exposed to many hardships, acquire loose and debauched habits, which generally demo- ralize ; and that, in fact, no steady industrious cha- racters are now willing to engage in it. In regard to the merchant, I have reason to believe that the lumber-trade is by no means profitable, and that many merchants are anxious to back out as soon as they can. Tiiere can be no doubt, in any case, that if the trade is to be extinguished, it must be done in a gradual manner, and that any alteration of duties which would suddenly annihilate it, must be follow- ed by very painful and hazardous consequences to the colony. To go minutely into the statistics of even the banks of the river, would far exceed the limits to which I nnist necessarily restrict myself. Suffice it to say, that a constant succession of eligible situa- tions present themselves for estates and farms. I was much pleased with the Matilda district, and con- STATISTICS. 267 sider it capable of great improvement. The soil is a fine mellow sandy loam, sometimes perhaps rather light, but admirably adapted for turnip husbandry and fine woolled sheep, with numerous beautiful si- tuations for a residence, the noble St Lawrence ever forming a prominent feature, its surface varied by lovely wooded islands, similar to those we so justly admire on many of our British lakes. In approach- ing Kingston, or the east end of Lake Ontario, the river Guananogue falls into the St Lawrence, and, at its mouth, is the establishment of Messrs M'Do- nell, two brothers who came about eight years ago to the colony, and who, by steady enterprize, without original capital, have realized considerable wealth, while, along with it, they have secured the respect and esteem of all who know them. They have here, what is called in America, a valuable water privilege or fall, and have erected flour and saw-mills to a large extent. Last season they sent down to Mont- real 24,000 barrels of flour ; and a friend of mine who was their agent, informed me that one of the brothers having resolved upon becoming their own agent in Montreal, it would be a loss of some hun- dreds a year to his house in commission. They have a very clever cooperage worked by water, si- milar to the steam cooperage at Glasgow, and the articles turned out are uncommonly reasonable, sub- stantial, and neat. I regretted much not having it in my power to form an acquaintance with these spi- rited colonists, more especially as they farm likewise to a large extent. The farm at Guananogue extends 268 UPPEK CANADA. to 1200 acres, and the mansion-house and barns are commodious and handsome. Having- received very encouraging accounts at Kingston, of the country along the Bay of Quinte, a deep inlet of Lake Ontario, formed by a peninsula called Prince Edward's Island, I made an excursion into that district. The scenery \vas pleasing, in many places fine; and settlements are formed on every hand. The soil is partly clay, partly loam and sand, suffi- ciently rich, in some instances, to yield fifteen crops of good wheat, with impunity, in a period of twenty years. Granite, limestone, and schistus, or clay- slate, are successively met M-itli. AV'herever a stream or creek of any importance falls into the lake, there we find a mill-seat and a village growing up, the embryo, in many cases, of considerable towns. To the patriot or philanthropist, it is highly grati- fying to remark, how the wants of the farmer and the interests of the trader or mechanic co-operate in the rapid progress of general improvement and civi- lization. Holywell, Sophiaburgh, and Belleville, are all thriving villages of this description ; and many individuals are to be met with in each, who, from the humble situation of merchants' clerks, &c. are rapidly acquiring independence. The last is the county town of Hastings, which has already three churches, a court-house, and projected jail ; a valua- ble mill-power, and fine situation for houses ; the high road from York to Kingston passes through it, and, altogether, it seems destined to become a place of some note. I was really astonished at the PRICE OF LAND. 269 frequent calls which the steam-boat made for pro- duce, and, ere we reached Kingston, our deck was absolutely heaped with flour-barrels. I have said nothing hitherto of the price or value of land in Canada, and it is extremely difficult, in the settled parts of either province, to ascei'tain any thing like a fair average rate. Prices are perpetually fluctuating, and must be re- gulated by the circumstances of the seller ; one man being willing to sell his farm for five dollars an acre, under a strong desire to commence anew upon a forest tract, or labouring under necessity ; while his next neighbour may probably refuse to part with similar land for less than ten or twelve dollars per acre. Of this, however, there is no doubt, that very eligi- ble and advantageous purchases may, at all times, be made by a prudent capitalist, and that land is every year increasing in value, wherever it is desirable to possess it. Great bargains are sometimes obtained at public sales, by warrant of the sherifi^, for pay- ment of land-taxes. Land thus sold is subject, for a certain short period, to be redeemed by the indivi- dual, or his heirs, who originally obtained the grant ; but, as it seldom exceeds, at a sheriff'-sale, 6d. or 7d. per acre, it is well worthy of a trial. Steam navigation may be said to have been creat- ed for America, and it is difficult to estimate the ad- vances which the States and the Canadas will soon make under its influence. To emigrants it not on- ly aff^ords a safe, cheap, and agreeable conveyance ; but, from the large concourse of passengers, a fund 270 UPPER CANADA. of valuable local inforniatioii may alw'ays be pro- cured, and useful acquaintances formed ; wbile it is impossible to overlook tlie silent but important ef- fects, in clearing the forest, which the consumption of fuel on board the steam-boats is destined to ac- complish. Perhaps it is not fanciful to assert, that the woods of America are now actually clearing by means of steam. York, the capital of Upper Canada, and seat of go- vernment, is a very desirable station for a settler to choose as head-quarters, in looking about for a pur- chase. He is sure, at this place, to meet with nume- rous offers of farms, regarding which he will do well to act with caution ; and he will be able to in- spect the plans of public lands in the government land-office, under the superintendence of Mr P. Ro- binson, a gentleman able and willing to afford him every fiicility. The rich and heavi/ land of Upper Canada is not to be found, in general, upon the immediate banks of the lakes and rivers. It lies, for the most part, from twelve to twenty miles back, and thus com- pensates the enterprizing settler for plunging into the forest. Government have still, I believe, about four millions and a half of acres to dispose of, be- sides seven or eight millions more, beyond the lines of what has been surveyed. No land is now grant- ed to individuals without payment, the price vary- ing according to situation and quality, and subject to the regulation of clearing and fencing five acres within two years, erecting a house 16 feet by 20, and also clearing half of the road in front. CANADA COMPANV. 271 Another land-office, highly interesting- to emi- grants, is likewise to be found in York. It is here that the Cominissioners of the Canada Company re- side, and have their principal establishment. This company, as is well known, purchased from govern- ment 2^ millions of acres in the Upper Province, with the view of disposing of it in lots to settlei's, at an advanced price. The company is yet too much in its infancy to speculate upon results ; but no rea- sonable doubt can be entertained, that it must ope- rate favourably in procuring settlers. A great progress has been made in the formation of roads, bridges, mills, &c., which government would not, and private individuals could not, have effected in the short period which has elapsed since the establishment of the company ; and, although a feeling inimical to their measures shewed itself in some quarters, I confess myself unable to discover, for that jealousy, any reasonable cause. I had very full discussions with the Commissioners and agents, from which, as well as from their published pro- posals, I feel satisfied that emigrants of every class may commit themselves to the Canada Company, in perfect assurance of experiencing the most kind, ho- nourable, and liberal treatment. Circumstances de- pendent upon the state of a new country, may delay the execution of plans beyond the promised period; but there can be no doubt of the company fulfilling all their engagements as speedily as possible. The prices of land vary from 7s. 6d. to 15s. per acre. I was much impressed with a favourable opinion of 272 UPPER CANADA. the Great Union tract, from the fact that many steady Dutch settlers, in the possession of old pro- ductive farms near York, were, at the period of my visit, disposing of their property and removing' to Goderich, — a change which tlie calculating J)utcli- man would not have rashly adopted, without pretty reasonable prospects of bettering himself to a consi- derable Jimount. " The township of Goderich con- tains about 400 inhabitants already ; and several Dutch families from the neighbourhood of York, have sold, or are endeavouring to sell, their (culti- vated and valuable farms, and liave purchased lands from tlie company in the Ilnron Tract. About 6000 acres have been sold them in the neighbourhood of Goderich within the last six months. In Guelph, a very valuable mill has lately been erected, and one in Goderich is now in progress." In a young and thinly-settled country such as Ca- nada, every accession of an industrious family or in- dividual tends to the welfare of all ; and it is there- fore natural to suppose, that such a corporation as the Canada Company woidd be fully a«ake to this principle. We find, accordingly, that in forming ar- rangements for forwarding emigrants to their own lands, they b'lve offered very favourable proposals to emigrants at large. Tlmy state, that " all persons depositing L. 20 with the Canada Company's agents in Quebec or Montreal, will be forwarded to the head of Lake Ontario by steam-boats, free of ex- pense, and have liberty to select land in any part of the province, at the current price charged by the CANADA COMPANY. 273 company, when the whole amount of their deposit will be placed to their credit on account of their land. But, should they prefer pui'chasing from in- dividuals and not the company, then the expense of their conveyance will be deducted from the amount deposited, and the balance paid over to them. Per- sons depositing- a sum equal to their conveyance, with their families and luggage, from Quebec to the head of the lake, may avail themselves of the company's contracts with the forwarders ; and should they, within three months after ari-ival, select land in Guelph, and pay one-fifth of the purchase-money, then the amount of their deposit in Quebec will also be placed to their credit, and they, their families, &c. be thus conveyed fi-om Quebec free of expense." 274 UPPER CANADA. CHAPTER II. Head of Lake Ontario — Toronto district — Guelph Township of Waterloo — of Gait — of Paris — Prices of Farm produce. It may perhaps be interesting- to g-ive a few agri- cultural notes of an excursion from York, by tlie bead of Lake Ontario, Toronto, VYaterloo, Dumfries, Ha- milton, &c. : but before leaving the capital, I must, with pleasure, add my humble testimony to the ener- gy, good sense, and patriotism of Sir John Colborne, in his situation as Governor of Upper Canada. Of liis well-known military talents, I am no judge ; but of the soundness of his policy in regard to emigra- tion, allotment of public lands, encouragement of agriculture, and improvement of the general consti- tution of society, I am enabled to speak with un- qualified praise. The experiments hitherto made by government hfive been, in Sir John's opinion, defec- tive in system and concentration. Had the establishment of government emigrants been kept more together, this very circumstance wonld have greatly toiuled to general advancement. At present tliey form only a few oases in the desert, and a long period must necessarily elapse, ere the intervals are even in some degree filled up. In conversing with Sir John, I ventured to sug- gest that something was required on the part of go- EMIGRANTS. 275 vemment, in making preparation for the thousands of emigrants who are pouring into Canada every sea- son, and who suffer heavy losses, both in time and means, from the want of some previous arrangement. It seemed to me, that the agent for emigrants ought to be a gentleman not engaged in trade, but one of active habits, acquainted with rural affairs, and with the agricultural classes, who might be ready at all times to point out land or labour to emigrants, ac- cording to their ability and means. Without going into minute details. Sir John assured me that he felt the want of such an arrangement much, and that a great deal of good might be effected by it, and a great deal of government land sold, and that he had repre- sented the matter to the colonial office at home. Emigrants unable or unwilling to purchase, will have little difficulty in providing themselves with a farm to rent, either for money or on shares, wliich means half the clear produce as rent. I was told by a gentleman of a friend of his, who was very com- fortably settled in this way near York, upon a farm of 200 acres. Eighty acres are cleared, the remain- der in wood pasture. He pays only £25 of rent, and clears £ 200 per annum, besides keeping his fa- mily. . To show how land is advancing in value, this farm, a few years ago, might have been purchased for £200, but is, of course, worth a great deal more now. Market gardening, and rearing good live stock, are two branches that will pay well in this quarter. s 2 27fi UPPER CANADA. I left York, on Wednesday May Uth, in the stage, for Hamilton, at the head of Bnrlington Bay, it being my intention to stop at night, and diverge next day into the woods. The roads were yet un- repaired for the season, and we travelled in an open waggon, the day line, and for the first time some- what sultry. It was interesting to observe the sud- den transition from the streets of York to the so- lemn stillness of the forest, as, I think, we could not liave proceeded above two or three miles, ere we were immersed in all the wild magnificence of a ce- dar swamp, and hemmed in by towering pines and hemlocks on every side. A cedar stoamp forms an exception to a general rule, as it enjoys pure water, and secures health to its inhabitants, which is also the case where the hemlock, fir, and spruce, abound. The land, in such situations, is not of the richest quality, sometimes sandy and poor, and the absence of fever and ague would seem to be granted in com- pensation for diminished returns. Our route lay through Toronto district, and I had the gratification of observing cultivation in every stage of its progress. There was the rude s/ia/it// or log-hut, its owner wielding the axe against the stately vegetable columns around him, or employed in reducing them to ashes, while some were left standing to blacken with the flames, or doomed to a more protracted fate under the operation of girdliriff, by which the bark is cut round the stem, and life destroyed. A little fsirther on we pass an older farm. The mansion and offices commodious and TORONTO DISTRICT. 277 neat, rich orchards loaded with blossom, fine wheat and pasture or meadow-land, healthy looking- chil- dren at every door, with pigs and poultry in abun- dance. As we passed each farmer's open door, we saw groups of old and young seated at their even- ing meal, neat, clean, and comfortably clad. In ge- neral, Canadians and Americans are deficient in what we call dressing up their doors ; they are, in fact, so much engaged in heavier and more important work, that the period for training roses and honeysuckles has not yet arrived. We passed, however, one small property this evening, belonging to a Mr Adams, and laid out as a nursery (smile not at a nursery in America), filled with peach, apple, and pear trees, flowering shrubs, &c., and which, by its neat arrange- ment and excellent order, forms at once a contrast and an example to its neighbours. We encountered some very steep hills and some hazardous road, espe- cially ascending and descending the banks of two considerable creeks or rivers falling into Ontario. Large sums have been expended in levelling, &c. apparently with but indiflFerent judgment or success. I reached Summer's tavern, 35 miles from York, about eight, and found a most obliging host, with comfortable accommodation. It being my intention next day to visit the city of Guelph, founded by Mr Gait, when he acted as com- missioner for the Canada Company, my first inquiry was for saddle-horses and a guide. These were pro- cured by my landlord, and at seven next morning I started, the distance to Guelph being called twenty- 278 UPPKR CANADA. six miles. I sliall not in thin place detail tlie perils of the way, the horrors of rotten corduroy roads, ce- dar swamps, tumdfalls, &c., with the additional com- forts of a misty rain, two roads diverg-ing' in a re- mote part of the forest, and the satisfaction of find- ing, upon an appeal to my guide, that he had never happened to he at Guel]>h before ; suffice it, that I reached my destination about three o'clock, after a most floundering- journey. The road is through the finest forest scenery I had yet seen, and clearings were going forward in various places, and in every state of progress. I could not but admire the luxu- riance and healthy appearance of the wheat and clo- ver. The whole tract is upon limestone, and, in some places, the road passes over ridges of it abso- lutely inexhaustible. The cattle and pigs are but very indifferent. The state of the road may be, in some measure, estimated from a party which I pass- ed, consisting of three men and six oxen, that had been three days absent from home, which they would only reach that day, drawing a load under which u donkey would have trotted upon any British turn- pike, and the whole extent of the journey not ex- ceeding twenty miles. Gu('l])h is situated in the Gore district, about eighty miles from York, and has been laid out upon an extensive scale. A fine stream flows past the town, and a large grist-mill is at M'ork upon it. A good deal of land has been located in the neighbourhctod, and the town may ul- timately prosper. At present it wears a stagnant appearance, and conveys somewhat the idea of the TOWN OF GUELPH. 279 cart preceding the horse. When farms become nume- rous, and a mill is erected in a convenient situation, a town soon grows up ; but here the town has been hurried forward, in the hope of settling the land. A vast deal of capital has been expended upon roads, &c., which must have so far benefited labourers, and tended, in some measure, to enable them to pur- chase lots ; but, at present, a very desolate com- plexion marks Guelph, as a city which may be very thankful to maintain its gTound, and escape deser- tion. The price of company land is here about 15s. per acre, of good quality; and, I believe, from the unsteady character of some of the early settlers, good purchases of farms partially cleared are fre- quently to be had. Guelph stands upon a fine na- tural platform, with the river flowing round it. A good bridge was nearly finished when I was there, and an extensive line of road is intended to con- nect this with the Huron settlement at Goderich. I spent the evening in company with Mr Prior, the acting manager, who has many arduous duties to perform. We conversed, of course, much upon the subject of emigration. His opinion coincides with the general conviction, that no steady indus- trious man can fail to prosper in Canada, according to his means. The Commissioners are now greatly more circumspect in the character of settlers than was the case at first ; and it is a leading object to obtain sober, moral, correct men, that a good neigh- bourhood may be every where secured. This must, 280 UPPEU CANADA. of course, impose a painful and difficult task upon tlie agents, retjuiring- much firmness and discretion. Mr Prior told me, that, durin^• a temporary al>- seuce, a party of a bad stamp had located themselves at Godei'ich. Having satisfied himself of their cha- racter, he sent for a vessel, and almost vi et armis shipped off fourteen families at one sweep. In disposing of lots to settlers, two methods are adopted in Canada, and their respective advantages and disadvantages are warmly discussed. The one adopted by the Canada Company is to insist upon an instalment at entry. The other method is to leave payment of any portion optional to the settler, but carrying on an account of interest against him. The advocates of the first plan maintain, that, by paying down a certain sum at first, the settler feels an intei'est and a degree of independence which he would not otherwise experience, and that the sums advanced enable the landlord to make roads, erect bridges, mills, &c. ; and further, that, as the black account is always running on, and a day of settling must arrive, for which tlie settlers are too often for- getful to provide, it ends in the abandonment of the farm, and in ruin to themselves and families. For the second plan, it is argued, that many industrious worthy men have absolutely no capital to begin with, beyond what may be necessary to purchase oxen, ploughs, &c., and to maintain their families, until a crop be gathered, and that to exact their pittance in such circumstances, is, in fact, to stifle their industry TOWNSHIP OP WATERLOO. 281 in its birth. By allowing' time, and regularly balan- cing the account, taking occasionally what may be forthcoming either in cash, cattle, or grain, a poor man slips into clear possession without feeling any inconvenience. We shall find that, as in most ques- tions of the kind, there is much to be said on both sides, and probably either phm may be followed with advantage in certain particular cases. Tlie United States, who bestow much attention on the disposal of their public lands, have resolved, in the western country, to exact, not an instalment only, but pay- ment in full at the entry of settlers, though it is to be observed, that a man may there acquire 80 acres for 100 dollars, or L.22, 10s. Friday I4th. — Mr Oliver, my landlord at Guelph, having agreed to drive me in his waggon to Mr Dickson's at Gait, a gentleman who purchased from Government a whole township, and to whom I had particular introductions, we started about eleven o'clock, and reached our destination about four. The road was certainly superior to what I had travelled yesterday, though mud holes and rotten corduroy were occasionally to be met with. Limestone was to be seen on every hand in great abundance, and I ob- served, at one place, a kiln hewn out and erected in the very stratum itself. Wherever a clearing oc- curred, the wheat looked beautiful. We passed through the township of Waterloo, settled mostly by Dutch. The soil appeared to be a good, useful, sandy loam, well watered by streams and springs. I was delighted with the cultivation, especially upon 282 UPPKR CANADA. the farms of Sclineidi!!- and Warner. Each farm miglit be from 200 to 300 acres, laid out into reij^uhir fields, and not a stump to he seen. The ploughing was capital, the crops most liixTn-iant, and the cattle, horses, Sec, of a superior stamj), with handsome houses, barns, &c., and orchards promising a rich re- turn. Waterloo satisfied me above all that I had yet seen of the capability of Canada to become a fruitful and fine country. The forest around consists of heavy timber, and the township does not enjoy the advantage of direct water-carriage ; yet have these Dutchmen, within a period of twenty years, produced farms, M-hich, in general aspect, very nearly resemble well cultivated land in Britain. The farmers are primitive and simple-minded, attending to little beyond their own affairs, and so indifferent in regard to politics, that Mr Dickson doubted much if some of them were yet aware of the death of George III. A great deal of capital flowed into this settlement, during the large expenditure at Guelph by the Canada Company, the Dutchmen supplying teams, provisions, Sec. My travelling companion valued some of the fiirras at 25 dollars, about L. G, per acre. Chopping or clearing land, ready for sowing, will cost sometimes 12 dollars, or L.3 per acre; the first return will be 13 or 20 bushels of wheat, worth at present 5s. per bushel. The usual mode of clearing timbered land is to cut down and burn all the wood of one foot diameter, and under that. The larger trees are only girdled. Clearing, in this way, costs about TOWNSHIP OF GALT. 283 8 dollars, or 40s. per acre. When this is done, a crop of wheat can be harrowed in, to be followed by two or three years of pasture or hay, when the plough may be used, and, during which time, the girdled trees are either cut into fencing stuff or burat. No lime has been used as yet upon this land, and I was told of two instances, where farmers had absolutely built new stables and barns, to escape from an accu- midation of despised manure. A few miles before reaching Gait, the residence of Mr Dickson, we came in view of a fine stream, bear- ing the name of Grand River, but of course, quite unconnected with the Uttawas of the lower part of the province. The settlement of Mr Dickson is one of much in- terest, being conducted by himself, on his own re- sources, in the same way as that of Colonel Talbot on the banks of Lake Erie. Mr Dickson began ope- rations in 1815-16, by the purchase from Govern- ment of this township, extending to 96,000 acres, and to which he gave the name of Dumfries. He selected a convenient spot with good water-power, to commence a town, and formed a connection with an enterprising American, who speedily established very extensive mills. Mr Dickson built a commodious re- sidence for himself, in a romantic situation, over- hanging the river, and communicating by a bridge with the mills and town. His plan of dealing with settlers is extremely liberal, as he does not insist upon any instalment being paid down ; and even, in some cases, advances the means of puixhasing oxen. 284 UPPER CANADA, &c. In tliis way, the poorest emigrant, if steady and industrious, must get forward. A regular account is opened with each individual, and partial j)ayments, either in money or produce, accepted by Mr Dickson, from time to time. The price of land is four dollars or 20s. per acre. Farms have been occasionally abandoned by unsteady or impatient individuals ; but some progress in clearing has always been made, and of course, the farm has, in so far, been rendered more valuable. A very con- siderable extent of land has been disposed of, upon both sides of the river, and hundreds of acres of fine wheat are to be seen contiguous to each other. An attempt had been made last spring to convey produce down the river to the Welland Canal, by which' Mr Shade, the owner of the mills, informed me a saving of two-thirds would be effected upon the transports of flour. This voyage was performed by a son of Mr Dickson, accompanied by Mr Shade, and being a navigation of about 100 miles, attended with some hazards, as a first attempt, it created a good deal of sensation at the time of my visit, and much satisfaction among the farmers by its success. Mr Dickson has about 2500 souls upon his estate, and draws a very handsome income from the interest of sales. I visited the mills with Mr Shade, who took much trouble in explaining to me the various machinery. The establishment comprises flour-mills, saw-mills, cooperage, &c., and appeared to me equally extensive and Avell arranged. I have been every where struck with the liavoc and destruction of the TOWNSHIP OF GALT. 285 woods, and had a remarkable opportunity at this place, of contrasting the value of a tree in Upper Canada with what it would have fetched at home. An uncommonly large and beautiful pine was lying at the mill, which I could not estimate at less than L.3 in Britain. Mr Shade, upon my putting the question, told me it just cost him a York shilling, or sevenpence Sterling. Saturday, loth Mag. — iVIr ^Villiam Dickson having kindly insisted upon conveying and accompanying me to Hamilton, where I was to resume the stage, we started, on horseback, after breakfast, and visited various farms upon the township. The road lay along the river, with much fine wood and beautiful scenery. The crops were looking healthy and well coloured. Some farms, partly improved and fenced, with houses, were on sale, — the price demanded was 8 dollars, or 40s. per acre. There seemed to be abundance of water every where, both from springs and brooks falling into the Grand River, and the substratum was still limestone. Some miles below Gait, there is a valuable gypsum quarry on the banks of the river, and it was curious to observe the line of rich and verdant turf, which marked the route of the waggons in their visits to the quarry, from scat- tering as they went along, strongly evincing the eflFect as a top-dressing. We called upon a settler from Scotland, newly entered upon a farm of 100 acres, for which he had paid down L. 1 00. The soil was a good rich sandy loam, worth in Britain 35s. per acre at least of rent. 286 UPPKR CANADA. The forest is here thin, probably not having' more than forty or fifty old oaks upon an acre, and not requiring those to be destroyed, it being quite pos- sible to guide tlu! plough through the intervals. Walter Smith was busy with his pair of oxen, preparing the laud for wheat, of which he expected to have thirty acres sown in autumn, the return from which will probably repay him the price of his farm, and allow him L. .'>0 or L, 60 besides for his labour and maintenance, //•<?/« the first crop alone. There are some delightful situations in this quarter for mansions : tlie river upon one side, and a lovely sheet of water called the Blue Lake, upon the other ; fine open woods, springs, brooks, and a dry healthy soil. It was a favourite haunt in old times of the Indians, and a little mound close by a copious spring, is still celebrated as a place where great councils were held. We stopped to rest our horses, at a new village called Paris, belonging to a very active individual of the name of Capron, and having a good water-power and other advantages, it promises to become, ere long, a place of some importance. In the afternoon we reached Brandtford, a pretty con- siderable vilhige belonging to the Indians, a tract of land in this quarter having been reserved for their behoof. It is managed by Government, who account for rent and sales to the chiefs. There had been a sale of village lots this day, and for tlie first time I saw the Indians assembled in any number. The lots sold for L. 25 one-fourth of an acre, which is an immense price in Canada, and argues an expectation of Brandt- PRICES. 287 ford continuing to prosper. Many of the Indians are now beginning to acquire settled habits, and to cul- tivate farms, but many more are yet totally abandon- ed to idleness and debauchery. The country to Hamilton by Ancaster, is partly forest, partly settled. The soil is chiefly clay. An- caster stands high, with some fine farms about it, healthy and well watered. Immediately before reaching Hamilton, we come to the brink of a high limestone ridge, and command a magnificent view of the rich flat below, extending to Lake Ontario. At St Catharine's, a small town, dependent upon the Welland Canal, we passed that work, and saw some of the wooden locks. The country through which I travelled next day, lies between the great limestone ridge and Lake On- tario. This remarkable ridge extends from the Ge- nessee country, in the State of New York, and, cross- ing the Niagara River, forms the celebrated falls. It is beautifully diversified with woodland, orchards, and farms, is very productive, and settling with con- siderable rapidity. On Monday evening I concluded this part of my excursion, by reaching a friend's house at the Falls. Before proceeding to the third branch of my let- ter, viz. Emigration to the United States, I may no- tice the current average prices of some articles in Upper Canada, at this date, May 1831 : — Ploughs from £110 to £2 Currency. Waggons, 15 Fajm horses, five years old, 12 10 to 15 288 UPPER CANADA. Oxen, for draught, £10 to £12 10 per pair. Cows, 2 to .3 Sheep, 5 to 7 G Swine, 10 to 15 per cwt. Poultry, 7.J Farm servants, per annum, 24 to 30 and board. Female ditto do. 12 10 to 15 May 1st 1831 — Prices of" Farm Produce. Wheat, per bushel of 60 lb. . . , . L.O 5 Barley, do. of 5(5 lb 3 l.J Oats, do. of 36 lb 1 Hay, per ton 15 Corn (Maize), per bushel of 60 lb. ... 026 Potatoes, do. do. from Is. 3d. to Is. lOd. Pork, per lb 3.^ Butter, ditto 7.*, Labourers were receiving last spring about 8 dollars or 40s. per raonth, and board, at the canals and pub- lic works. This fine province is making wonderful advances, and wlien the canals, and some projected railways, are fairly in operation, its progress will become yet more rapid. In 1824, 10,000 bushels of wheat were shipped upon Ontario from Biulington Bay, and in 1830 the export had reached to 150,000 bushels. Five bushels of wheat are allowed to tlie barrel of flour. The two great Canada canals have given rise to much public and private discussion; and opinions of their value, diametrically opposed to each other, are entertained by men who would seem equally quali- fied to judge. CANALS. 289 The Welland Canal, which connects Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, avoiding the Niagara Falls, is in- tended for mercantile purposes. The Rideau Canal has been executed by Government with a view both to mercantile and military purposes. Without at all presuming to give an opinion, I feel bound to state, that the impression made upon my mind, by those persons whom I considered perfect masters of the whole bearings of the case, and whom I know to be independent and disinterested men, is adverse to the utility and probable success of these great works, at least when compared with the cost at which they have been constructed. Heavy as the expense, how- ever, has been, we must not rashly infer that it has been altogether thrown away ; and, although it is possible that a far more moderate expenditure upon roads and railways might have been attended with happier results, we must yet hope to see essential and important benefits flowing from these canals. T ( 290 ) CHAPTER III. Emigration to The States — Albany — Valley of the Hudson — Value of various Farms — Produce and Prices — Genesee Country — Michigan. In offering a few remarks upon the prospects of emigrants to tlie States, so many circumstances occur upon which it would be necessary to touch, tliat I almost shrink from the attempt. The great and in- teresting tie wliich must be severed when we leave our native country, and become the denizens of an- other, is a point which every man must settle for him- self. Should it prove no impediment, he will find numerous and varied fields of agricultural enterprize presenting themselves in every quarter of the Union. He will find perfect security and independence, and, with ordinary good sense and good humour, can have no difficulty in maintaining friendly habits with his neighbours. Two plans present themselves to the emigrant with capital in fixing his residence in the States. He may either purchase or occupy a farm in the old settled part of the country, or he may establish himself in some of the new or yet unsettled portions of the older States, The choice must be dependent on the UNITED states' LAND-OFFICE. 291 means and character of tlie individual ; but in either way the greatest risk of disappointment will always be found in fixing too hastily. I would strongly recommend to every man who may emigrate to Canada or the States, that he should allot some months to looking about him, ere he make a pur- chase, which it is not again so easy to exchange, should any of those numerous drawbacks present themselves, which we are ever too apt to overlook in the excitement of the moment. The arrangements for managing and disposing of the United States' public lands are very complete, and no difficulty or annoyance is likely to occur, if we except, perhaps, the delay in receiving the formal title or patent, occasioned by a heavy arrear of busi- ness in that department. This occasions, however, neither loss nor hazard, as the warrant of possession which every purchaser immediately receives, secures him in all the rights of property. A bureau at Washington, under a head commis- sioner (at present Judge Hayward), superintends the various land-offices established throughout every part of the country, and where intending purchasers are treated with the utmost civility and dispatch. I had the honour of being personally introduced to Mr Hayward by the President himself; and I would take this opportunity of expressing my deep sense of the cordial and kind reception I met with from General Jackson, IVIr Van Buren, and others, and of the candid and open manner in which the busi- T 2 292 ALBANY. ness of the land-office was explained to me by Mr Hayward. As it is impossible, within reasonable terms, to discuss seriatim the respective fitness of the different States for affording comfortable settlements to British emigrants, I shall detail my own personal observa- tions, made npon the Banks of the Hudson, above Albany, and in some parts of the Genesee country, and the information which I was enabled to collect, from most respectable settlers in Michigan, as a fair sample of what is generally to be expected in the western country, leaving such inferences to be drawn as the statements deserve. Various classes of settlers are to be found in the States, from the man of substance and capital to the rough back woodsman and squatter ; but a minute discussion of the several grades does not seem to be here required. The first farm which I visited was in the imme- diate vicinity of Albany, forming part of the princely estate of Mr Van Ransalser. It contained 600 acres of fine mellow loam along the banks of the river, divided into fields by rail-fences, which cost here 4s. 6d. per sixteen foct, including boards, nails, and work, — four rails, and about five feet high. The crops chiefly raised are wheat, Indian corn, pumpkins, planted in the intervals or rows, oats, potatoes, and large quantities of Timothy for hay. The buildings are of timber, handsome and con- venient. The farm was let, some years ago, at 2000 dollars. CATTLE-DEALING. 293 or L. 450, which, in America, seems to be a very- high rent ; but it must be recollected that the situa- tion is particularly favourable, from its close contact with the thriving city of Albany. A turnpike road upon Macadam's principle, has been commenced, from Albany to the north, and six miles of it are already completed. It runs through the centre of this farm. It is, at present, the home farm of the eldest son of Mr Van Ransalaer, who has imported, at consider- able expense, from England, some fine short-horn stock, and which he is very successfully crossing, with a judicious selection of native cows. Although very fine cattle and sheep are to be found in some districts, I am satisfied that more may be done in the department of live-stock, than in any other branch of American husbandry. As the country becomes more populous, manufac- tures (already far advanced) will continue to in- crease, and fat stock, with dairy produce, must be- come objects of greater importance to the farmer than they have hitherto been. I met with a very intelligent cattle-dealer in Pennsylvania, who gave me much information on this subject. He and his partners deal, to a large extent, for the Philadelphia and New York markets. The system appeared to be perfectly organized. They purchase all the fat stock they can procure within a reasonable range of these cities, which are first disposed of to the but- chers ; and having thus cleared the field, they bring forward their droves from the back settlements or dis- tant states, in such a succession, as supplies, without 294 GOOD HORSES. glutting, tlie m.arket. Some of tholr cattle travel above 600 miles, and are two months on the road. He told me that ho purchased 400 oxen every year from one Kentucky farmer, and he considers a stock fiirm to be a very sure and profitable concern. New- York takes about 700 oxen a-week when the demand is brisk. These weigh, on an average, about 65 stone, 14 lb. to a stone ; and the price he receives, is from L. 12 to L. 13 a-head. I was happy to hear his opinion regarding live and dead weight to coincide nearly with my own. When pr'nne fat, he reckons on a sink o^ one-third only, on the live weight. He dislikes pumpkin fed beef, and always insists on the animals which he purchases being fed, at least lat- terly, on maize. His expenses are high, much of his stock costing him above L. 2 a-head in road ex- penses ; and he gives his head drivers 4s. 6d. a-day, Avitli food for themselves and horses. His profits this season, he says, have been very handsome, and the trade in general is a good one to a steady man, with sufficient capital. Horses, in all parts of the States and Canada which I visited, and I believe imiversally, are to be remarked as superior in the qualities of action, strength, and figure. It is rare to pass a farmer's team, without noticing horses worthy of being trans- ferred to any gentleman's stud. They are kindly treated, well fed, and remarkably docile, of Avhich I met with repeated instances, which would have not a little astonished our first rate English coachmen. Davenport's farm. 295 They are in general about 15 hands, or 151, and cost from L. 10 to L. 25 each. From Albany, I proceeded about 30 miles up the river, where I spent several days with a friend, and, in his company, examined some farms, then on sale, in his neighbourhood. To afford some idea of the expected prices and returns of old farms in this district, I shall subjoin a few notes, which I made at the time of my visit. 1st, Captain Davenport's farm on tlie east bank of the Hudson. It contains 350 acres, 100 of which are in wood, hemlock (or Canada pine, the bark of which is in general use for tanning), maple, beech, &c. The soil is partly clay, partly sandy loam. A large portion is a rich holm, on the river side, and of the finest quality. The price demanded is 30 dollars, L. 7, 10s. per acre ; but it would probably be bought for 25 dollars, or L. 5, I2s. The return might rea- sonably be expected to reach L. 112, 10s., clear of expenses, from the flat land, and L. 70 from the pro- fit on a sheep stock, on the upper portion of the farm, in whole L. 182, 10s. The price would be at L.5, lOs., L. 1875,* and an outlay on buildings, fences, and drains, of L. 1000 more, would still be within L. 3000, for which yoii have a return of above L. 180. In making this rough estimate, I resolved to be moderate in estimating returns, and liberal in calcu- lating outlay, and am perfectly satisfied that an indus- • This property has been lately purchased by a gentleman from Scotland for L. 2000. 296 FARaiS ON SALE. trious Scotch farmer would realize a profit of L. 200 a-year. It is to be noticed also, that one-half of the timber might be at once sold off, without any detriment to the farm, and that I calculate upon the owner and his family drawing the ordinary articles of subsist- ence from the land, besides the above return. 2d, Next to this farm, was that of Mr Knicker- bocker, containing- 275 acres. There is a fine holm also on this farm, and the upland seemed fully better than No. 1. This farm was let last year in shares for one year, and the owner received L. 63. The price asked is L. 4 per acre, or L. 1100, and L. 200 more would be required for houses, fences, &c. There is no more timber than is requisite for the use of the estate. This farm seemed to be in very indifferent order. 3d, Mr Chesney's farm, 106 acres, with wood sufficient for use of the property. About 40 acres of very fine holm, capable of yielding, I was assured, 40 or 45 bushels of oats, or other grain in propor- tion. This farm could be had for L. 530, and would certainly return L. 45 or L.50 clear. It was in very fair order. 4th, Mr Vely's farm, 118 acres, 40 acres of most superior holm ; the upland good ; with a stream run- ning through it. The houses appeared to be new. This farm could be had for L. 400, and the return could not be less than L. 35 or L. 40. 5th, A farm of 300 acres, occupied by Colonel Grant, at a rent of 300 dollars, L. 67, 10s. The soil WAGES AND PRICES. 297 is good loam, nine parts of it are clay. A new dwelling-house, and a good barn, with a valuable wood lot. It might be bought for L. 1500. The whole of these properties were evidently sus- ceptible of great improvement, though in foul and bad condition. The local situation is good; the Champlain Canal passing within half a mile, but separated by the river. The roads are either already turnpike, or becoming such, though certainly not of a description to pass through the ordeal of Mr Mac- adam. No. 3 and 4 are contiguous, and might be advantageously thrown into one estate. The following list of prices, &c. I procured from the best authority as current in April 1831 : Current Prices, and Rates of Wages, on Hudson Ri- ver, above Albany, April 1831. Wages. — Men for general farm- work, summer, £ 2, 5s. per month ; winter, £ 1, 7s. per month. Harvest-work, cradling wheat, 4s. 6d. per day. A cradle-scythe is said to cut four acres a-day, and re- quires one man 'to bind to each cradler. Hay cut- ting, 2s. 7d. a-day. — Board found besides to all these. Good cooks, 18s. to 27s. per month. Chamber- maids, 13s. 6d. to 18s. per month. Live Stock. — Good ordinary horses, £ 20 to £ 25. Oxen, per pair, with yoke and chain, £ 20 to £ 30. Cows, £ 4, 10s. to £ 6. Merino sheep, 9s, to 18s. ; 298 PRICES. Saxony, 13s. 6cl. to 45s. ; common sheep, a sort of coarse Leicesters, 4s. 6d. to 9s. after shearing. Brood sow, £2, 5s. to f 3, 10s. Hogs, Id. to l^d. per ft) on live weight. Geese, 2s. lOd. a-pair. Tur- keys, 2s. Id. each. Fowls, 6^d. Utensils Farm waggon, £13, 10s. Ox cart, £ 10. Lumber sleigh, £ 3 to £5. Ploughs, £1, 10s. to £ 1, 16s. Pleasure sleigh, £ 7 to £ 70; ditto wag- gon, £ 9 to £ 35. Good double harness, £ 18. Produce. — Wheat, 6s. 9d. per bushel. Barley, 2s. 8d. Oats, Is. 6d. Indian corn, 2s. 3d. Potatoes, Is. 3d. Beef, per quarter, IBs. to 23s. ; per lb 2d. to 4d. IVIutton, lid. to 2d. per ft). Veal the same. Pork, 22s. to 27s. per cwt. Hay, from 23s. to £ 3 10s. per ton. Cyder, 4s. 6d. to IBs. per barrel of 32 gallons. Wool, merino, 2s. 7d.; common, Is. 8d. per ft) (16 oz. to ft)). Live goose feathers, 2s. Id. per lb. Butter, 5d. per ft). Cheese, 2d. to 4d. per ft). Eggs, 4d. to 5d. per doz. Brandy (French), 4s 6d. per gallon. Gin, 3s. ditto. Whisky, Is. Id. to Is. 6d. ditto. Excellent table beer, 4s. 6d. per barrel of 32 gallons. Fire-wood, 13s. 6d. country price; 22s. to 27s. town price, per cord of 128 cubic feet, de- livered 4 feet long, and costs 2s. per cord to cut to length required for use. The American farmers live comfortably, and at a very moderate expense. Candles and soap are ge- nerally manufactured from kitchen refuse. A good STYLE OF LIVING. 299 housewife assured me, that the butcher-meat for her family, fifteen in number, did not exceed, in whole. Is. per day (three meals), except when she allowed them turkeys and other poultry, when she reckoned the expense at 2s. 6d. The flour consumed did not exceed 4s. 6d. per week. They have fruit, both fresh and preserved, in the utmost profusion ; and the cider barrel is always ready broached. A good many articles of clothing are spun or woven at home; and the geese are subjected to periodical contribu- tions towards the bedding of the household, or the feathers sold at a good price. At a later period in my tour, I passed through a considerable portion of the Genesee country, cele- brated for its great fertility, and the superior quali- ty of its produce. Upon entering this part of New York state from Canada, I was immediately struck by the superior quality of the cattle. On many farms I observed a variety of these in shape and size greatly resembling the heavy class of our west Highlanders. They were chiefly of a dark brin- dled colour, and many of them really handsome. I did not see a particular portion of the Genesee dis- trict, which is said to be imcommonly rich ; but what came under my view, in a journey of between three and four hundred miles, in this part of the country, was certainly very fine. The surface is finely undu- lated, — rivers, brooks, lakes, farms, villages, and fo- rest scenery, all presenting themselves in succession. The soil is sometimes rather light, but generally a good, and often a rich black loam. 300 GENESEE COUNTRY. Tiie crops of wheat, clover, rye, pease, and Indian com all looked well ; and the orchards of peach, plum, apple, &c. were richly laden with blossom. The houses and buildings I found generally very good. Where land is let for a money rent, it is com- monly 4s. 6d. per aci-e. Old farms sell from £4, lOs. to £ 9 per acre, including houses, orchards, &c. I found every where in this quarter noble single trees, elm, oak, &c. judiciously left in the fields, af- fording both ornament and shelter, and the total want of which in many cultivated portions of Canada and the States, gives an appearance of nakedness even in situations where wood is treated as a nuisance. I would remark, also, that a great improvement, in shelter and beauty, would be effected, by frequently substituting hedges for rail fences. An English far- mer near Geneva, I was informed, has miles of fine hawthorn hedges, four feet high, and completely be- lying the assertion that thorns will not succeed in America. His practice is to plant in a trench^ not upon a ridge or bank, as the great risk of failure is from the summer drouglit. Before reaching Albany, I travelled the greatest part of one day through the valley of the Mohawk, and upon which lie the rich German flats. It is a noble coixntry, and the land of the very first quality, but farmed too often in a slovenly manner. The country of Michigan, which I selected as a sample of new settlement in the west, is at present quite tlie rar/e, and has, in a great degree, supplanted Ohio, Illinois, &c. It lies between 41" 31' and 45° MICHIGAN. 301 40' N. Lat., and 5° 12' and 10= W. Long., to the westward of Lake Erie, and including' an immense extent of country capable of improvement, with fine water privileges. Detroit, an old French town, is its capital. By a reference to the map, it will be seen that Michigan can readily avail itself of New York, New Orleans, or Montreal, as markets, and must, of course, derive from such facilities of inter- course considerable advantage. The climate is tem- perate and healthy. Winter sets in generally about the middle of November, and continues till about the middle of March. At Detroit, in 1818, the mean heat of January was 24° ; and in 1820, the mean heat of July was 69° ; of December, 27°. The soil is in general a good fertile loam, upon limestone ; and, in some places, a calcareous earth is turned up, mixed with the common soil, which is extremely productive. Clay is also prevalent in some parts. This territory is better watered than any other in the United States. There is an abundance of game, deer, bears, hares, ducks, turkey, quail, &c. and it is finely diversified with lakes and brooks, rising in most parts from copious springs. Besides other sources of information, I happened to travel, at difi'erent times, with two Michigan set- tlers, who said much in its praise, and, although it is quite usual for that class of persons to magnify the advantages of a country where they are them- selves fixed, I have every reason to believe that the statements, separate and distinct, which I received 302 SETTLERS IN MICHIGAN. from tliese individuals, were substantially correct, having- found tliein, in all essential points, not only to confirm each other, but also to be corroborated by other documents and evidence, which it was impos- sible to doubt. The first of these individuals whom I met, Avas a fellow-passeng-er in the track-boat from Buffalo to Rochester, upon the great Erie Canal. He appear- ed to be one of those characters so numerous in the States, who are always ready to make a move when they consider it likely to better their condition, or even to offer reasonable hopes of a fair return, for indulging their love of enterprise. He and a brother had, in this way, explored Michigan a few years ago, and had picked up various lots of land, near intend- ed towns, harbours, &c. for which they paid 5s. 7^d. per acre, and which can already be sold for 22s. 6d. per acre. They intend to dispose of some, and to occupy part themselves, as he likes the country for a residence. He considers it superior to Ohio, as be- ing more healthy. The country is in some places under heavy timber, and in others it is open prairie, where a settler has nothing to do but to start his plough. The soil is in general a loamy blackish sand, very productive. Eighty acres may be pur- chased in the Govenmient Land-office for £22, 10s. A ]VIr Gilbert, who realized a fortune as a contrac- tor for work on the Erie Canal, has transferred his capital to, and fixed his residence in, Michigan. He vested £ 2250 in land, which, at 5s. 7^d. per acre, makes a tolerably extensive domain. He is farming SETTLERS IN MICHIGAN. 303 and improving with great spirit, and this autumn he will have 400 acres in wheat. As a proof of the admixture of calcareous matter in much of the soil, Mr Gilbert had a tract of what he considered to be very sterile sand, and not worth 3s. an acre, to sell. His men having been sent to procure some of this sand, to be employed in building, they found their hands blistered; and, upon a farther investigation, the calcareous matter in the sand has proved so useful, that Mr Gilbert would not take .25s. an acre now for what he had previously esteemed of so little value. Wlieat is selling readily at Detroit for 4s. 6d. per bushel : the return is from 20 to 40 bushels per acre. My other Michigan friend is established in the town of Ypsilante, a city which does not yet figure in any map. He holds land and farms, but his pro- per avocation is somewhat miscellaneous. He has built a large tavern, opened a warehouse or store, and runs the stage for sixty miles. He appeared to be an uncommonly shrewd sensible man, looking sharp after every thing. When we met, he was tra- velling to New York, to make purchases of goods for the season, and, inter alia, two or three additional coaches. The influx of emigrants at present to Mi- chigan is quite remarkable. Seven steam-vessels ply from Buifalo to Detroit, and the decks have been swarming every day since the navigation open- ed for the season. Mr Stackhouse is convinced, that, for many years, a home-market will be found 304 MICHIGAN COUNTRY. among the new settlers for all the Michigan pro- duce. Land-offices are establislied in various situations, where the settler may provide himself with a farm at the usual rate of 5s. 7^d. per acre. Should he chance to fancy one in some favoured spot (most of which ai"e already secured along the great road for 300 miles through the country), he will have little difficulty in procuring it for 12s. or 15s. an acre. Michigan is not yet admitted into the Union as a state. Intelligent settlers consider this to be no dis- advantagOo The expense of their public works, as roads, bridges, jails, court-houses, &c,, are defrayed by the General Government, in place of being as- sessed upon themselves ; and although they cannot boast of one or two members of Congress, their in- terests are sufficiently watched by a Delegate, who resides at AV^ashington for that purpose. Mr Stack- house describes the scenery as in many places high- ly romantic. The timber consists of black walnut, elm, beecli, oak, hickory, sugar maple, &c. The produce of the land runs from 25 to 50 bushels after one bushel sown of wheat, Indian corn, <S:c. Tuniips are likely to succeed well, also beet and mangel wurzel. Prices of stock, &c. seem to be much tlie same as in Cana- da. Horses cost from £ 18 to £22, 10s.; oxen from £ 15 to £ 18 a paii'. Mechanics are establish- ing themselves wherever demand for their labour is found. The lakes and rivers aboimd with fish, as SAGANAW BAY. 305 trout, white fish, bass, &c., and game is plentiful. The Indians are found in the more remote parts of the country, but they are perfectly harmless, and seldom come near the settlers. Such is an outline of the account I received of Michigan, and which, I have no doubt, is in all es- sential particulars correct. I may add, that, from the rapid improvement which has even already taken place, in regard to communication, the journey from Michigan to NeM- York is easily accomplished in six days. In 1820, a Government Expedition was sent into the western country, for the purpose of ascertain- ing the natural advantages and productions. The report is highly favourable to the fertility and capa- bilities of Michigan. An extensive range of country upon the River and Bay of Saganaw, on Lake Hu- ron, is spoken of, in terms of high admiration, for the richness of the soil, and natural beauty of the scenery, and also as presenting uncommon induce- ments to enterprising and industrious ftirmers and mechanics, from its central and advantageous posi- tion for business. Saganaw Bay is about 60 miles in length, and 30 miles wide, with numerous fine islands. It is 180 miles west of Detroit. Game is mentioned to be very abundant, consisting of deer, bear, brown rabbit, or hare, weighing about 6 lb, partridge or grouse, pigeons, ducks, &c. Fox Ri- ver is also specially noticed as highly desirable for settlers, in regard to quality of soil, beauty, and lo- u 306 ESTIMATE OP RETURNS. cal advantages. It runs into the west end of Lake Michigan. I made out a rough estimate of a supposed in- vestment in Michigan, and having submitted it to the correction of competent judges, acquainted with the present state of the district, it may perhaps be useful to insert it, especially as it applies also much of U2)per Canada. Price of IGO acres, at 1} dollar, is 200 dollars, or £45 Expense of seed, labour, (say 150 acres), and rail fence, at 6 dol- lars, '. . . 900 _, _. 202 10 Harvesting, at 2 dollars, ... MO 07 10 Cost of dwelling-house, stables, &c 800 „„ «„ 180 2200 £495 Returns Produce of 150 acres (20 bushels per acre) 3000 bushels, at 1 dollar per bushel, . . . £675 Deduct . 495 £ 180 clear. The dollar is taken at 4s. 6d. No allowance is made for maintenance, and it may be said that the expenses are underrated. The above estimate, liow- ever, is given upon pretty good data, and as the settler will certainly repeat the wheat crop for at least one or two seasons more without any deterio- ration, and becomes, likewise, free owner of land and houses, he may afford to double or treble that item, or to take a smaller return per acre, or a lower price per bushel, and still be very well off. Tlie return was stated to me at 25 or 30 bushels per acre MICHIGAN COUNTRY. 307 at an average, and a dollar was the price given last season without any particular excitement. The houses are of a superior description, the dwelling- houses being supposed to contain seven or eight rooms, with kitchen and other domestic offices at- tached. A good deal of discussion took place before the Emigration Committee, upon the probability of set- tlers being able to refund a portion, or the whole, of the sums advanced by Government on their account. Should there be any foundation at all for the state- ment I have here given, it is abundantly clear that Mr Wilraot Morton's expectations on that head may be very easily realized. The tide of emigration is at present setting very strong into Michigan. It is stated in the Detroit Courier of 26 th May last, " that the sales of public lands up to 5 o'clock yesterday, amounted to 20,700 dollai's ! On two several days they exceeded 5000 ; one day, 5600. The total amount in this district alone, since the 1st of March, is 48,727 dollars." The cotton-plant, the grape-vine, the sweet potato of Carolina, tomato, and the egg-plant, were all suc- cessfully cultivated last year *. The period cannot be remote when pauperism must become an object of anxious investigation, as it already is of deep solicitude to every wellwisher of his country, and must be followed up with measures • Appendix, No. 1. u2 308 EMIGRATION. of energy and decision adequate to the political and moral importance of the subject. Willie it may well be esteemed a dubious policy to pamper population by any permanent system of encourag-ement, few thinking' minds will deny that the existing- pressure, (whether it be an actual excess or not), ought to be forthwith removed, and with no fartlior delay than the discov'ery of a safe and prac- ticable vent may require. Whether we contemplate the mass of wretched- ness and sickening hopelessness in which thousands of well meaning labourers and artizans are at this moment plunged, or the absorbing demands which their necessities occasion, by the amount of parish rates, all must concur in the anxious wish, that some remedy may ere long be devised. We have written and said so much uj)on this subject, that, from the very attempts to throw in light, it has become mar- vellously mystified and confused. Neither is it to be concealed that considerable and conflicting diffi- culties exist, though it is believed and hoped, none which patient investigation and a liberal policy may not overcome. It may be reasonably assumed, that parishes distressed by rates will readily concur in a fair and final composition, wliich is to free tbom from a heavy and a growing annual charge. Government, on the other hand, by receiving such funds, and making simple and economical arrangements, may not only relieve the pressure at home, but will also confer happiness and independence upon those who have unhappily occasioned the distress. Neither EMIGRATION. 309 does it seem necessary to open the public purse for this desirable object ; on the contrary, by a judicious selection of settlements, and reserving- lots of Govern- ment lands adjoining- those devoted to emigrants, there can be little doubt that, in a few years, con- siderable sales may be effected. The man who finds himself and family comfortably and conveniently settled upon fifty or an hundred acres, will ere long be willing and able to pay for a like quantity, which has been left alongside of his farm, and in this way Government may be amply reimbursed. In regard to the question of place, Upper Canada would seem, on many accounts, to be most appro- priate ; nor can I bring myself, for a moment, to put Tasmania, New Holland, &c. in competition, how- ever high the eulogiums which my respected friend the Editor of the Journal of Agriculture has passed upon Australasia. ~A pestilential and impure moral atmosphere hangs over these colonies, which will require a very long period to dispel ; and although this can be certainly best effected by a wholesome infusion of character from home, it must prove a heavy sacrifice to those individuals who undertake the task. The climate, the soil, the accessibility of North America, with various other circumstances, offer nearly au assurance of success. The experi- ments hitherto made by Government, in those colo- nies, although far indeed from having failed, might certainly have been conducted in a more satisfactory and economical maimer. The settlers sent out by Government have been 310 EMIGRATION. of that class which could contribnto nothing but manual labour, and the transaction must necessarily assume a very different aspect; if parishes are called upon to bear a principal part of the expense. Settle- ments have been established also in a manner not quite judicious. Tliey have been dropped too much at random, and at remote distances from each other, deprived of all the comfort and support which a more concentrated system would have produced. It is obvious that, in dealing with our dead weight of population, two classes must be formed, viz. those who can, and those who cannot, bear a certain portion of the necessary expense of removal. With the first of these descriptions of emigrants it will not be very difficult to make suitable arraugomonts, and as to the latter, there can be no doubt that much good mav be attained by the establishment of an honourable and active agency in Canada, to ascertain and register the wants of the colonists, or public works, in regard to servants, artizans, and labourers, to receive and hus- band any small funds which the emigrants may pos- sess, and generally to supply a link in the chain, which is at present assuredly Avanting. In this way, communications might be made to the mother coun- try of the probable supply required for the ensuing season, and much distress and disappointment pre- vented. It mfiy be said that Government has, at this time, emigrant agents in Canada, and such is truly the case. But these gentlemen are engaged in mercantile pursuits, and are in many respects dis- qualified for establishing that connection between the EMIGRATION. 311 colonists and emigrants, which, it is thought, may be advantageously procured. To some men, and those too of no ordinary stamp, emigration, under any modification, is an object of dismay. Viewing it as palpablo encouragement of evil, which it professes to remove, they cannot be induced to countenance it. It may be doubted, how- ever, whether theory is not carried by such econo- mists rather too far; and it is not unreasonable to ho2)e, that, by taking off the surplus which so many portions of our land present, a better system might be introduced in regard to parish paupers, leading or compelling the people to adopt that moral check, which sound politicians and moralists agree can alone effectually preserve the labouring classes in a whole- some state of numbers, and tend to apportion the supply of hands to the labour which is provided to be done. The system of removing paupers to Ca- nada has been already partially adopted by some English parishes, and I had a personal opportunity of witnessing the inadequacy of the arrangements, in regard to a large party in Somersetshire, that arrived in Quebec, while I was there, — I think there were one hundred and fifty, seemingly of the class of agricultural labourers, and they were under the charge of a respectable parish overseer, whose duty it was to have justice done to them on board ship, and to land them at Montreal. There, they were to be absolutely cast a-drift, each man receiving L.4; but no arrangements having been contemplated for locating them, or for providing work, they would 312 YORKSHIRE EMIGRANT. very quickly be relieved of their cash by the tavern- keepers, and left <'estitute, a heavy burden to them- selves, and a nuisance to the province. Had the money been secured and judiciously ex- pended, it would have sufficed to place them in com- fort and independence. Some weeks after, I met witli several of these poor fellows, in the Upper Province, wandering about in search of service or employment. In this case, the fault lay in the system, not in the emigrants; but there are innumerable instances, where the emigrant has only to blame himself for failure and disappointment. The history of a York- shire farmer and his wife, who returned to Britain in the same packet with myself, will, in some degree, illustrate this position. An unmarried uncle, who had emigrated to America, returned to England, for the purpose of realizing a legacy, and gave such ac- counts of Michigan (for it was in that land of pro- mise the scene lay) as to induce this man and his wife to emigrate also, about two years ago. He was a stout, steady looking man, in the prime of life ; the wife seemed very little calculated for encounter- ing any hardship. Upon conversing with him, I found him totally ignorant of the distinguishing features of Michigan. He said land was " fair enough ; that his uncle offered him eighty acres to himself, but that it was not worth having; it was no farm, it was all wild, and a loghouse (the wife added) just fit for pigs." The uncle then proposed • A pp. No. 2. EXPEDIENCY OF EMIGRATION. 313 to him to work his made farm, on shares, by which he woiikl have had one-half to himself; but neither did this suit his expectations. " He said that was merely to make him toil like a slave, when his uncle would live like a gentleman ; he had never been a servant to any man, and he would not begin in America, if he could find bread in England." In short, a child died, the wife took a disgust at the country, and here he was on his way home, after spending time and money to no useful end. 1 am not sure but there was a little of diamond cut diamond in the family adventure, and that, while the uncle perhaps looked on the nephew, as a likely fel- low to manage his farm in Michigan, the other had been making some shrewd speculations upon the legacy of L. 1000, which had given immediate rise to the emigration. And now comes the important question for indi- vidual consideration, " Is emigration expedient or not ?" This must be decided by circumstances, and every man must judge for himself. Of this, how- ever, I think there can be no doubt, tliat either the moderate capitalist, or the frugal, sober, and indus- trious labourer or artisan cannot fail of success. Fortunes will not be rapidly or even readily acquir- ed ; but it must be the settler's own fault if he does not enjoy, in large abundance, every solid comfort and enjoyment of life, and rear around his table even a forest of " Olive jylants," without one anxious thought regarding their future destination or pro- vision. APPENDIX. APPENDIX. No. I. TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. [From a small Tract of good authorit?/, published in the States.] INIicHiGAN Territory is bounded east and north by the >iational boundary Ime which separates it from Canada, west by the Mississippi river, and south by Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio. It is governed by a Governor, and Legislative Council, composed of 13 members : the former is appointed by the Pre- sident of the United States, with the advice and consent of the Senate, and holds his office during their pleasure ; but the lat- ter are elected every two years by the people ; compose one House only, and are allowed to hold two sessions a-year, not ex- ceeding thirty days each. The Territory is represented in Con- gress by a Delegate, chosen once in two years, who is entitled to the same pay as a member of the House of Representatives ; but is not allowed to vote m that body. The expenses of the government of the territory was paid by the United States ; but the town and county charges are defrayed by a direct tax. Population. — It is estimated by the most competent judges, to contain, at present, about 35,000 inhabitants. Its rapid and in- creasing tide of emigration is such, as to induce the belief, that she is shortly destined to be admitted to an equal rank among the political stars which adorn the American constellation. Her present growth and increasing importance, may be measu- rably attributed to the enterprising, active, and energetic talents of her present chief magistrate, Lewis Cass, whose personal exertions and enlightened policy, has not only facilitated its settlement, but tended in a great measure to develope its va- rious resources. That part of the territory immediately border- 318 APPENDIX. ing upon lakes Erie, St Clair, Huron, and their connecting waters, is in general rather level, somewhat deficient in good water, and for the most part heavily timbered. But as you ad- vance in the interior, it becomes gently undulating, until it terminates in rolling, heavy timbered land, of the first quali- ty, interspersed with oak openings, plains, and occasionally prairies. The Plains are frequently covered with such a regular, beau- tiful, and thrifty growth of timber, so free from underbrush, as to wear the aspect of a cultivated forest. They are more easily impro\'ed than the heavy timbered land, and produce full as well. The Openings are often rather deficient in timber, though they are not unfre(|uently skirted with plains, or contain patches of woodland, from which an ample supply may be obtained, not only for fuel, but for buUding, fencing, and all other form- ing purposes, if used with economy. They usually require but little, and sometimes no labour to prepare them for the plough, three or four yoke of cattle are found to be amply sufficient to break them up the first time, after which they are cultivated witli nearly as much ease as old improved lands. They are found to be excellent for wheat, to improve by cultivation, and usual- ly to produce a good crop of corn the first season. The Prairies generally support a heavy growth of grass, are free from timber, and may be divided into two classes. One is called Dry, and the other is denominated Wet, Prairies. The former possess a rich soil, are easily cultivated, and generally yield in rich abundance almost every kind of produce which might be expected to flourish in 42' north latitude, especially those on St Joseph's river. And the latter often prove service- able, not only in affording early pasture, but in sujjplying the emigrant with the means of wintering his cattle ; and may, with a little labour, frecjuently be made to yield an abundant supply of excellent hay. The interior of the territory is well watered with rivers, creeks and small lakes ; many of which contain an unusual quantity of fish. There are several salt- springs, which have not yet been tried nor improved, situate in different parts of the territory, all of which have been reserved by the United States ; but it is not certain that any of them TERRITORY OP MICHIGAN. 319 will prove very valuable ; yet it is more than probable, that by boring a number of feet, the water would improve, and might in some cases at least, not only justify the erection of extensive works for the manufacture of salt, but prove also a source of re- venue to the United States, as well as afford to the manufac- turer, the means of accumulating wealth. The surveyed part of the territory is laid out by the United States into townships of six miles square, which are divided in- to 36 sections or square miles, containing each 640 acres. These are subdivided by imaginary lines, into quarter and half quar- ter sections ; the latter of which contain each 80 acres, is the smallest quantity sold by the United States, and may, as well as the larger tracts, be selected by the purchaser. Though there is a small tract of land which proves rather un- healthy at the mouth of Huron, SaginaAv and Rouge rivers, as well as at the mouth of Brownstown and Swan Creeks, owing to the sluggishness of the water at the outlet of these streams ; yet the climate of the surveyed part of the territory is not on- ly mild but healthy, lying between 41° ZW, and 42° 34' north latitude. The air is salubrious, and the water generally pure and wholesome. The soil, which produces in rich abundance, wheat, rye, barley, oats, peas, beans, Indian com, and potatoes, as well as all kinds of vegetables, usually cultivated in the same latitude, consists of such a variety, that it cannot fail to suit the choice of almost every person in the pursuit of agriculture. Fruit of course, has not yet been tested in the interior, for the want of time, except peaches, which do exceedingly well ; but if I may be permitted to draw an inference, from the quality of the various kinds which grow in great abundance on the French plantations, along the margin of Detroit river, as well as on other parts of the great chain of navigable waters, then I pre- sume I shall be allowed to say, that the soil of Michigan is equal if not superior, for the production of fruit to that of any state in the union. The pear-trees along this river, which were plant- ed in the early settlement, by the French, are'remarkably large, very tall, and extremely thrifty and beautiful ; and bear a most delicious fruit, which generally sells from two to four shillings per bushel. Apples, at Detroit, vary from twelve to fifty cents, and may generally be procured by the bushel, for the latter 320 APPENDIX. price, even in winter. Cider in tlie fall is from one and a half to two dollars per barrel, for the juice. Currants, blackberries, black and red ras])berries and cheiTies, bring from three to four cents per (juart ; though the earliest of these, as well as whortle berries and strawberries, command sixj)ence. Plums are scarce, because they have not been generally cultivated, though they arc likewise found to do well. The emigrants to the territory are mostly enterprising, indus- trious farmers, who from not being allowed to purchase the land on a credit, thereby become immediately the real owners of the soil, and being free from debt, bid fair to become wealthy citi- zens. They are mostly from the western part of New York, though many are from the New England States. Every State contributes more or less, and Ohio, for the last two years, not a few. The price of unsold wild land is fi.xed and uniform, be- ing D. 1. 25 • per acre ; the terms ready money, and the title indisputable, as it comes direct from the United States, under the seal of the President. The richest, most fertile, and per- haps more beautiful part of the territory, is generally thought to be adjacent to the St Joseph's river and its various branches ; which, from present appearances, bids fair to become speedily settled ; settlements began to form on it, a year before it was offered for sale. It only came in market last May, and such has been the influx of emigration to this part of the territory, that the legislature in October last following, formed twelve new counties, mostly thereon, and organized two of tiiat num- ber. This part of the territory possesses several copious mill- streams, particularly Hog Creek, the Dowagiake, Christianna, Pigeon, Crooked and Portage rivers, a few of which have al- ready been improved, by the erection of saw and grist mills — The climate of this ])art of the territory, though mild, is appa- rently more subject to wind than the valley of the Ohio river. The prevailing winds is the south-west, and as it crosses a large tract of prairie country in Illinois and Indiana, comes here with much force, and in winter is somewhat piercing. Consider- able snow falls, nevei'theless it is very favourable to wheat, rye, potatoes, and turnips; and though not very adverse, yet not so congenial as the valley of the Ohio river, to southern com, and * 5s. 7jd. Sterling. TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 321 the more tender grains and esculents. Fruits, of course, have not jet been cultivated here, except a few apples and peaches, by the French, which appear to do well. The Prairies in this quarter are of the richest soil, and may be ploughed in two days after the frost leaves the ground in the spring. They usually produce 30 or 40 bushels of wheat to the acre ; and from 30 to 80 of corn have been raised from the same quantity of ground, in all the prairies that have as yet been occupied : 400 acres of corn were cultivated on Beard- sley's prairie last year, which having been improved the year before averaged 50 to the acre. These prairies not unfrequent- ly produce 30 or 40 bushels of corn to the acre the first season, without being ploughed or hoed after planting. The surveyed part of the territory is divided into two United States' land dis- tricts, containing each one land-ofRce ; one of which is situate at Detroit, the other at St Joseph's. The seat of government for the territory is the city of Detroit. It is pleasantly situa- ted on Detroit river, between Lakes Erie and St Clair, about 25 miles from the former, and 7 from the latter, in latitude 42° 1 8' north, and longitude 6° 10' west from Washington city, con- taining at present about 2500 inhabitants, many of whom are French. It is daily improving, and is destined to be one of the most important ports on the north western frontiers, not only on account of the safety and commodiousness of its harbour, but also in consequence of its extensive inland commercial advantages, as it possesses steam-boat and sloop navigation to Buffalo, Sault de Ste, Marie, Michillimackinac, Green Bay, and Chicago, Public Buildings. — It contains a court-house, jail, academy, council-house, and two banks ; a Presbyterian, an Episcopalian, Methodist, Baptist, and Catholic church ; an arsenal, maga- zine, and commissary store-house. The rivers Grand, St Jo- seph, llaisin, Huron, Clinton, Rouge Kalamazoo, and Shiawas- see, interlockmg in different parts of the territory, not only ir- rigate the country in a beautiful manner, but offer unparalleled inducements for canalling, and with comparatively but little ex. pense, as there would be no mountains, nor probably rock strata, to cut through. It is already in contemplation, by means of the Grand River, and Clinton, or the St Joseph's and Raisin, to open a water communication across the Peninsula, by means X 322 APPENDIX. of a canal, which would tenninate at Detroit or ^fonroe ; and probably at no very distant period, it will not only be under- taken,biit will be accomjjlished in such a manner, as to accommo- date both those places in this respect. A company was incor- porated by an act of the Lejrislature last fall, under the title of the " Summit Portage Canal and lload Company," with a ca- pital of D. 10,000, to be divided into 1000 shares of D. 10 each, for the purpose of cutting a canal west of Lake ^Michigan, to connect the Fox and Ouisconsin rivers, at what is usually term- ed the Portage of the Ouisconsin, and to construct a turnpike road on said Portage, parallel to said canal ; and also to con- struct another turnpike road from the lower extremity of the rapids of the Kaukaunin, on the east side of Fox River, on the most direct and eligible route, to Winnebago lake, and for the erection of piers, wharfs, warehouses, and other j)ublic build- ings and improvements, in and about said canal and turnpike, for commercial purposes. ^Michigan extends at present west to the Mississippi river ; but it is expected the territory will shortly be divided, and a new ten-itory set otf west of Lake Michigan, and organized by the name of Ouisconsin or Huron. — This territory was originally owned and occupied by emigrants fi'om France, consequently the old inhabitants or first settlers are mostly French. V/ayne Couvty contains about 7^00 inhabitants, many of whom are French. Its seat of justice is Detroit. Hamtranck, Detroit, and Springwells. These towns, which lie in the north- east part of the county, border on Detroit river, and are rather level, and but poorly supplied with water. The northern part of the two latter is somewhat broken by marsh and wet jirairie ; but near the centre of Springwells is a tract, containing some ex- cellent arable land not yet entered, lying within from 6 to 10 miles of Detroit, where a new settlement has recently been form- ed, and through whidi a road has lately been ojiened, leading from Detroit to Farmington. The towns of Pekin, Nankin, and Plymouth, are well supplied with water by the River llouge and its various branches, which atfbrd several eligible mill sites, and which have already been advantageously improved b}- the erec- tion thereon of saw and grist mills. Pekin is heavily timber- TERRITORY OP MICHIGAN. 323 eJ with white and black ash, white and black oak, beech, maple, and sugar tree. The land is rolling, and the soil rich and fer- tile, consisting of sand, loam, and some clay. The northern and southern part of the town of Nankin has much the same appear- ance as Pekin, though the soil is more sandy, and requires less labour to cultivate it ; yet it yields quite as well, but the mid- dle is plains and openings, of an inferior quality of soil. Ply- mouth has likewise a similar appearance to Pekin, though the northern part is more rolling, yet even here the timber is the same, with the addition of black walnut ; but the soil is general- ly of a superior quality. Huron. — This town is watered by a delightsome river, of the same name, whose waters are very transparent and abound with fish. It runs through the town diagonally, exhibiting in many places rich bottomed lands, often bounded on one or both sides by high sloping banks, and not unfrequently skirted with beau- tiful plains. Though a great portion of this township is rather destitute of running streams, yet the soil in general is fertile, and for the most part easily cultivated. The eastern part is oak openings, and plains of a good quality, mterspersed with groves of heavy timber, which often contain a small black ash swamp, and sometimes a wet or dry prairie ; but the south part is ge- nerally heavily tmibered with white and black ash, Avhite oak, beech, and maple, with occasionally a white wood. The south- west corner is low land, and contains a large wet prairie. Broumstown is watered by the Huron River, Muddy and Brownstown Creeks. The north-western part of this town is but poorly watered, and exhibits alternately oak openings, plains and prairies, occasionally interspersed with groves of heavy tim- ber. The south-eastern part is rather level and heavily timber- ed, except small tracts at the mouths of the Huron lliver and Brownstown Creek, which consist of prairies that are more or less inundated with water. Moiitgnagon — This town embraces Gross' Isle, and is situate on Detroit river. It is gently undulating, possesses a fine quar- ry of limestone, and a rich soil, supporting a thrifty and heavy growth of white oak, hickory, beech, maple, white and black ash. MaNROE County contains a popv.lation of about 4000, x2 324 APPENDIX. many of whom arc French. There are three villages in this county, namely, jMonroe, Frenchtown, and Port Lawrence. Tlie first of these, which is tlie Scat of Justice for the county, is a flourishintr village, situate on the Uiver JJaisiii, about six miles from Lake Erie, and thirty-six south from Detroit. The United States' turnj)ike, from the latter place to the Ohio State line, passes through it, and here was situated the bank of Monroe. It possesses an ample supjjly of water-power for pro- pelling hydraulic machinery, a part of which has already been converted to the use of saw and grist mills, as well as to the use of macliines for cardin<j and dressing cloth. The United States have made a survey of Plaisance Bay Harbour, at the mouth of the river, Avith a view of improving the same. JMonroe is now the second village in the peninsula, as regards population ; and should they succeed in forming a good harbour at the mouth of the river, as it possesses water power, it may yet equal, if not rival Detroit. This county is generally well watered : the north-easteni part is rather level and heavily timbered ; but the western and southern part is rolling land, alternately abounding in jirairies, openings, or heavy groves of timber. The soil of this county is uniformly rich, and of a very superior quality. AVasutenaw Couvty contains about 4000 inhabitants, who ai-e, with a few exceptions, Americans. Its Seat of Jus- tice is Annarbour, a village of five years growth, situate on the llivcr Huron, forty miles west of Detroit, containing about ninety dwelling-houses. Ypsilanti, the second village in the county as to population, is likewise situate on the Huron, about ten miles below Aimarliour, at the place where the United States turnpike, from Detroit to Chicago, crosses the same. This county contains twelve mercantile establishments, three distilleries, one fanning-mill factory, one pail-factory, one gun- smith, one waggon-muker, five flouring mills, thirteen saw mills, and two machines for carding and dressing cloth. It abounds in select and common schools, and contains many me- chanics. Its surface is gently imdulating and l)eautiful ; and its soil prolific, consisting of a deep black sand, loam, and some clay. It exhibits, in succession, beautiful prairies, oak open- TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 325 ings, and heavy groves of timber, consisting of white, red, and black oak, beech, wahiut, whitewood, bass, ehn, maple, and butternut, interspersed with almost all other kinds that usu- ally grow in 42° of north latitude, evergreen excepted. The Iliver Huron, of Lake Erie, meanders through the centre of it north and south ; is navigable for boats and rafts to the Lake, and with its several branches waters the middle ; the head wa- ters of the Shiawassee, the North, and the rivers Raisin and Saline and their branches, the south part of said county. It has numerous and extensive water privileges for facilitatmg manufactures. Macomb County contains about 2500 inhabitants, a con- siderable number of whom are French. The north-eastern and eastern part of this county is in general rather level, and for the most pai't heavily timbered : yet it is sufficiently uneven to drain off and leave no stagnant waters ; but the western part is rolling land, somewhat broken, being very hilly and uneven, and consisting of oak openings, plains, and some prairie land. The plains are remarkably free from underbrush, and are, as well as the prairies and openings, very rich and fertile, pro- ducing not only wheat, but every other kind of grain in rich abundance. The Clinton River, together with its numerous tributaries, irrigate this county iii a beautiful manner. It possesses advantages over many of the peninsular counties, on account of its proximity to the great chain of navigable ivaters. It fronts on Lake St Clair, and the River CHnton, which runs through the entire county, nearly in the centre, may easily be rendered navigable for batteaux, as high up as Rochester; and for the accomplishment of which, a company has already been formed, and were incorporated last fall, by an act of the legislature. This river is now navigable to Mt. Clemens, for vessels of considerable burthen ; and when the obstructions at the mouth of the river are removed, for which object an appli- cation has been made to Congress for an appropriation, then any vessel or steam-boat on the lake may come up to the village, a distance of six miles, by water. This county is very well supplied with water-power : it has now in operation seven saw-mills, and two grist-mills, and em- 326 APPENDIX. braces four stores, three distilleries, two asheries, and six black- smith shops. Its Seat of Justice is Mt. Clemens, a Nourishing village situiite on the Clinton Kiver, at the place where the United States road from Detroit to Ft. CIratiot crosses the same. It lies four and a half miles frcmi the lake, by land, and twenty north-eastwardly from Detroit. Washhifjtoii This townshij) lies in the northwest corner of the county, and consists principally of oak o])cnings and plains, though it has some prairie land. The openings and plains are extremely free from under])rush, and prove to be excellent for the cultivation of wheat. The south part is rolling land, exhi- biting a rich, and for the most part a sandy soil, though it is sometimes composed of sand and loam intermixed ; but the north part is what is commonly called broken land, being very hilly and uneven, and not unfrequently exhibits granitic boulders in great plenty. Shelby and Kay. — These consist principally of gently undulat- ing and heavy timbered land, intersj)ersed occasionally with oak openings. They are well watered, and possess a very productive soil. Harrison This township is in general rather level, and the north part, though somewhat swampy, is susceptible of being converted into excellent meadow. Clinton. — Thistownshi])j)ossessesgenerallyarich soil,is heavi- ly timbered, and embraces a marsh or wet prairie of considerable extent on its eastern border adjacent to the lake shore, the greater part of which, however, if jjroperly ditched, would prove to be good natural meadow. The northern part of the town is gently undulating, and well supplied with water, of which the southern part is too deficient, being rather level. Oakland County contains about COOO inhabitants, all American. It has three villages, each with a mill on their borders, namely, Pontiac, Auburn, and Kochester ; the first of which is the Seat of Justice for the count}', and is situate twenty-eight miles northwest of Detroit on the Clinton lliver, where the United States road from Detroit to Saginaw crosses the same. This county presents a great variety of soil, and upon examination, will be found to suit the choice of almost every per- TERRITORY OP MICHIGAN. 327 son ill the pursuit of agriculture. The Rivers Clinton, Rouge, and Huron, interlocking in different parts, extend their many branches, and irrigate the county in a beautiful manner. Troy, — Which embraces townships one and two, south, in range eleven east, is situate in the south-east quarter of the county, and is principally timbered land. Township 2 is en- tirely of this description, is heavily wooded with black and white wahiut, linden, white, red, and black oak, and the westerly half is of that description usually denominated rolling timbered land, and in quality of soil is not surpassed by any in the ter- ritory ; but township 1 is of that description called plains, in- terspersed with marshes, and is of an inferior quality. Blomnfield.—^\i\s, township presents a variety of soil which may be divided into three classes, — oak openuigs, plains, and timbered land. The country in the neighbourhood of the lakes is oak openings, not so good for grass, but producing wheat in rich abundance. I would mention, that two farmers in the vicinity of Wing Lake, harvested 130 acres of excellent wheat the past season. The north of Bloomfield is of this description, but the south part is timbered land. Pontiac. — This town is generally oak openings of a good quality, but inferior to the lands of Bloomfield. Oaklmid. — The south part of this town is timbered land with a rich soil, and the north part plains and openings of a good quality. The township of Troy is watered by a branch of the Rouge, and the branches of Red River which empty into the Clinton. Bloomfield is watered by three branches of the Rouge, which, meandering through the county, enable every farmer to partake of their privileges. The townships of Pontiac and Oakland are watered by the Clinton River, Paint and Stony Creeks, and the extreme branches of the Huron. AU these streams possess great privileges for hydraulic machinery. Pontiac and Oakland now contain twelve saw-mills, four flouring mills, three fulling mills, three carding machines, and one woollen factory. In Bloomfield are four saw-miUs, and one grist-mill. In Farming- tong, two saw-miUs and one grist-mill. Perhaps no country of like extent, so level, possesses more water power. 328 APPENDIX. St Clair County possesses great commercial advantages, as it lies on the great chain of navigable waters. It is bounded east by Lake Huron and the lliver Sin Clair, which separates it from Canada ; south by Lake St Clair and the county of Macomb ; west by the counties of Macomb and Lapeer, and north by Sanilac. Black, Pine, and Eellc Rivers, Mill Creek, and their branches, as well as several smaller streams, water this county. The first of these streams is navigable for vessels of considerable burthen, as far up as Mill Creek ; but Belle and Pine Rivers are ascended only a very short distance in batteaux. This county is generally rather level, the eastern and southern part is gently undulating, ridi, fertile, and mostly heavy timbered, though there is occasionally some prairie land on the border of Lake St Clair, and along the southern margin of Sin Clair River. The northern and western part of this county is comparatively of a light, and for the most part sandy, soil, though tolerably productive, and interspersed with swamps and low land. A great proportion of the timber in this quarter is pine, though it is often intermixed with hard wood, and not unfrequently interspersed with groves of tamerack, in some in- stances with spruce, and often on the shore of Lake Huron, with red and white cedar. There are now in operation in this county, several of the u.ost extensive saw-mills in the territory, which are constantly eno-aged in manufactui-ing pine boards, planks, &c., and which, together with shingles, constitute at present the principal arti- cle of trade in the county. And as lumber may be conveyed from this county by water to any port, not only on the great lakes, but on their connecting waters, therefore the i)ine timber must ultimately become very valuable. Almost all the pine now used at Detroit for building, comes from this county, as it is the only one in the surveyed part of the territory that is well supplied with this valuable building material. The United States road from Detroit to Ft. C;ratiot, runs through the centre of this county, and about twelve miles west of the village of Palmer, which is the Seat of Justice for the county; and whidi is situate at the junction of Pine and Sin Clair Rivers, about twelve miles south of Ft. Gratiot, and sixty by water, north-east <rf Detroit. TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 329 St Joseph's County is perhaps the best in the territory, both as to water privileges and the fertility of its soil. It is watered by the St Joseph's River, and its various branches, many of which afford numerous water privileges, particularly Hog" Creek, Pigeon, Portage, and Crooked Rivers, which may be considered copious and excellent mill-streams. A saw-mill has already been put in operation on Crooked River, and several others have been commenced on the same creek, and about Pigeon Prairie. The water in this county is uniformly pure and healthy, the climate mild, and the face of the country moderately undulating ; consisting principally of oak openings and prairies. There is, however, a sufficiency of timber in it generally, and from the Grand Traverse on the northwest side of the River St Joseph's, as high up, 1 believe, as Portage River, is a belt of excellent timbered land, which is well supplied with water. The principal prairies in this country are, Sturges, Nottawa, Sepee, and White Pigeon. The first of these, Stur- ges Prairie, has a beautiful appearance, and is exuberant in fertility, but is not convenient for water, and but tolerably so to good timber ; a few families are located on it. Nottawa Sepee, part of which is embraced within the Indian reserve, is an excellent prairie, and settlements have commenced on it. But Pigeon Prairie is the most valuable one in the St Joseph's county, as well as the most densely peopled, and perhaps it wlU not be deemed invidious to say it is the best settlement in the St Joseph's county, whether we regard the number of its inhabitants, or their intelligence and wealth. The soil of these prairies may be considered equal to that of any land in the United States. The usual mode of cultivating these, as well as all other prairies, in the vicinity of the River St Joseph's, is to break up the soil immediately with the plough, at the same time dropping the corn on the edge of the furrow, in such a man- ner that it may be covered by the succeeding one, in this man- ner without any other cultivation, they often produce from thirty to fifty bushels of corn to the acre the first season, though sometimes it becomes necessary to go through and cut down some of the rankest weeds. The counties of Kalamazoo, Calhoun, Branch, Barry, and Eaton, and all the country north of township 4, north ; west of the principal meridian, south 330 APPENDIX. of the county of Michiliniackinac, and east of the line between ranges twelve and tliirteen west, and of Lake IVIichigan, is attached to St Joseph's. Cass Couxty contains a population of about 2000, and is likewise watered by the St Josl'])1i's River and its branches, several of wliicii atibrd good mill privileges, particularly the Dowagiake and Christianna, which are rapid and durable streams. A mill has already been erected, and is now in opera- tion on the Clirislianna, near Young's Prairie. The face of this county is similar to that of St Joseph's county ; though some part is undulating, yet in general it is level ; sufficiently uneven, however, to di-ain off, and leave no stagnant waters. The timber is principally oak, ash, elm, sugar-tree, cherry, black and white walnut, and hickory, with a variety of other kinds intermixed. The country is generally open, and you can ride willi a wheel-carriage through the woodland, with almost the same ease you can do over the prairies, being not in the least interrupted with underbrush. In every part of the county the roads are good. Though some parts of it are but thinly timbered, yet along the Dowagiake, from its source to its mouth, thei'e is a broad belt of excellent timbered and very rich land, from one to several miles wide ; aLso along the upper portion of the Christianna, extending north of its source, and tlience across to the Dowagiake, is a fine belt of wood land. This county includes within its boundaries the following prairies, namely. Four jNIile, Beardsley, Townsend's, M'Kenny's, La Grange, Pokagon, and Young's, besides several smaller ones, not, however, known by any particular name. The prairies here are of the richest soil ; — may be ploughed in two days after the frost leaves the ground in spring, and fre- quently produce thirty or forty bushels of corn to the acre, the first season, without being j)loughed or hoed after planting. The tliree last mentioned jjrairies are conveniently situate to mill streams, and principally surrounded with heavy timbered land, but tliey are nearly' all taken up by purchasers. Four- Mile Prairie is not so ha])pily situate with regard to mills or timbered land ; but nevertheless is fast filling up. From thirty to eighty bushels of corn, and forty of wheat, are usu- TERRITORY OP MICHIGAN. 331 ally raised from an acre in all the prairies, where the soil has been subdued by previous cultivation. Every other kind of grain as well as vegetables are produced in about the same proportion. The only town yet laid out in this county is Edwardsburgh, which is the temporary county seat. It is situate on the bor- der of Pleasant Lake, and on the northeast corner of Beardsley's Prairie. The United States road from Detroit to Chicago passes through it, as well as the road from Et Wayne to Poka- gon, to Nile's, to Young's, and to Townsend's Prairies, and to CoquUlard in Indiana. All these places, except Ft. Wayne, are situate within ten miles of it. From the town Piatt, or village, you have a view, not only of the prairie, but also of Pleasant Lake. The prairie is four miles in extent, and the lake covers about 100 acres. Fish are abundant in all the streams and small lakes ; forty-three that would weigh from one to three pounds, were caught with a hook and line in Pleasant Lake by two persons in thirty minutes. The water in this lake is very pure ; you can see the bottom where the depth of the water is fifteen feet. The country is healthy, several large families who settled here before the land was offered for sale, and who have resided here for three years, have not had a case of fever nor any other kind of sickness, except what has resulted from accident. The counties of Berrien and Van Buren, and all the country north of the same to Lake Michigan, are attached at present to Cass county. Berrien County, not organized, has in it a large propor- tion of superior timbered land, but has no prairies of much im- portance. The settlements in this county, though few, are scattered along the river, and the population does not exceed thirty-five families. But from the nature of the country, I am inclined to believe it will be the most populous county on the St Joseph's. The rich timbered land, though now avoided for the prairies, will ultimately be in demand, and will afford many dense and excellent settlements. Through the timbered land in this county, run several small creeks, which, with theu- numerous 332 APPENDIX. branches, afford an additional convenience to the farmer which he cannot enjoy in the prairies nor in the barrens. Besides the heavy timbered and ))rairie land, there are large tracts of what are here called barrens, being of a light soil, compara- tively speaking, though tolerably productive, and which are thinly covered with white and black oak, sometimes of stinted gi'owlli, but mostly of a handsome and useful size. The soil of the barrens is generally a fine sand, mixed with decayed vegetables, and sometimes gravelly, with here and there a granitic boulder. The soil of the timbered land is of a loose sandy nature, black with fertility, and eminently adajited to culture. That of the prairies is nearly of the same nature, after the sod has been re- duced by repeated ploughing. In the timbered land we find white and bhick walnut, several kinds of ash, also oak, poplar, lynn, beech, elm, hickory, sugai'-tree, &c. The south-east part of this county is well supplied with water, and possesses seve- ral mill sites, some of which have already been improved. Ford's saw and grist mill, on the Dowagiake, have been for some time in operation. There is also a saw-mill just ready to commence operation at the mouth of the Dowagiake, and several otliers have been commenced on the same stream. There is but one village regularly laid out in this county, which is called Niles. It is situate on the St Joseph's, a short distance above the confluence of the Dowagiake with that river. The first framed house in it was erected in December last. Next summer it is expected there will be considerable building there. Last season, though there were no accommodation, yet by far the greatest portion of merchandize, &c., destined for the St Josei)h's country, when conveyed by water, was landed thei'e. Next spring will be l)uilt two warehouses ; there are now two stores and a post-olHce. Post offices have been esta- blished at the mouth of the St Joseph's, called Saranac, at Pokogon, south-west corner of town 6 south of ranges 16 west, at I.agrange in the middle of town six south of range 15 west, at Pigeon Prairie, at Sturges Prairie, and at the Grand Traverse. liAPEER, Shiawassee, and Saginaw — These counties are not yet organized, are attached to Oakland county, and em- TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 333 braced within the limits of the township of Pontiac. There are no inhabitants in Lapeer, and but few settlers at present in Sagi- naw and Shiawassee. The face of these two counties is very similar to Oakland. Saginaw — Is watered by the Shiawassee, Flint, Cass, Titti- bawassee, and Hare rivers. The most of these streams are navigable for boats ; their junction form the Saginaw River, which is navigable for sloops 20 miles to the village which bears the same name, and which is to be the seat of justice for said county. The United States have established a canton- ment here, and laid out a road from this place to Detroit, which is not yet finished. When this is completed, it is more than probable that it will settle as speedily as any county in the territory, as the soil is very favourable to agriculture. Shiawassee The soil of this county is rich, and the face of the country gently undulating, in some instances rolling, ex- hibiting oak openings and heavy groves of timber. The Shia- wasse Iviver, which is a beautiful meandering stream, and navi- gable for boats and rafts to the lake, with its several branches, waters the middle and south-east part ; the head branches of Grand and Lookmg-glass rivers the south-west part ; and Swartz's Creek, the Flint and Mistegayock rivers, the north- east part of said country. Calhoux. — This county is not yet organized, and is attach- ed to St Joseph's. It is well supplied with water by the Kala- mazoo and St Joseph's rivers, and their branches. The Kala- mazoo is a beautiful stream of pure water, quite rapid, but, nevertheless, navigable for boats from Lake Michigan to its forks near the county Ime between this and Jackson. This river and its branches afford miU privileges in great numbers. The soil in general is rich and fertile, and the face of the coun- try moderately undulating, consisting principally of burr oak openings, which are frequently interspersed with prairies. In the south-west part of the county is a small tract of pine timber. Jackson. — This county is not yet organized, and is attach, ed to Whastenaw. The west-half oi it is undulating, and con- sists principally of burr and white oak openings, interspersed 334 APPENDIX. occasionally with praii-ies. It abounds in springs, and possesses a fertile soil. The norlh-eust part is heavily timbered, and some- what intersected with marshes and small lakes. The soil, how- ever, of this part is rich, and well adapted for meadow. Grand River is an excellent stream of pure water, quick, yet navi- gable for canoes, from its junction with its south branch, quite through the county and to the Lake Michigan. Kalamazoo.— This county is not 3'et organized, and is at- tached to St Joseph's. The face of this county in general is moderately undulatuig, though sometimes rolling. It exhibits j)rincipally burr oak openings, interspersed with rich fertile and dry jirairies, and not unfrequently intersected with groves of first-rate timbered land. The character of the soil is in gene- ral either a black sand or a rich loam. In the south-east cor- ner of this county is an excellent tract of woodland, covered witli a heavy but beautiful grove of sugar niajjle. Gull and Round Prairies are the two largest in this county, and are equal to any in the territory for beauty and fertility. The first of these, Gull Prairie, is situate in the vicinity of a beauti- ful lake, as well as adjacent to the margin of a romantic creek, both of which bear the same name. This lake is about four miles long, and its waters, which are very transparent, are said to contain white fish. The creek is very raj)id, and atibrds hy- draulic privileges equal to any in the territory. Prairie Ronde, which lies in the south-west part of the comity, is about four miles broad, and is j)rinci ally surrounded with woodland: near its centre there is a beautii'ul grove of timber, of about a mile in diameter, consisting of sugar maple, black walnut, and hicko- ry. This county is well supj)lied with water. Tlie Kalama- y,oo River, which runs through it, is a rapid meandering stream, yet navigable for boats. Its surface is frequently chequered with islands, and its banks occasionally broken. Branch This county is attached to St Joseph's. A large proportion of it, particularly tlie southern part, is heavily tim- bered land, consisting principally of black and wliite walnut, sugar maple, white wood, lynn, and some other kinds in small- er quantities. The Chicago road, which runs through the TERRITORY OP 3IICHIGAN. 335 northern part of this county, passes principallv through oak openings, which are occasionally intersected with prairies. Hillsdale. — This county is attached to Lenawee. The north part of it is principally oak opening;; of a good quality, but the southern part is heavily wooded with sugar maple, white wood, beech, black walnut, ash, &c. The face of this count}' is rather uneven, and the soil in general consists of a rich black loam. The southern part is timbered land, and is heavily wooded with sugar maple, white wood, beech, black walnut, ash, &c. This county is well supplied with water. The St Joseph's of Lake ^Michigan, as well as che St Joseph's of Maumee, the Grand Iliver, TiMin's, and the River Kaisin, all head in this county, and with their numerous branches water it in a beautiful manner. Lenawee Coukty contains at present about 1500 inhabi- tants. The northern part of this county has much the same appearance as WhastenaW, but the southern part is principally timbered land. It contams a tamerack swamp of considerable extent in the south-east comer, yet, notwithstanding the cha- racter of its soil and climate, is generally very inviting. It is principally watered by the Ottawa Creek, Tiffin's and Raisin Rivers, and their branches. It contains two villases. each with a mill on their borders, namely, Tecumseh and Adri- an,— the former of which is the seat of Justice for the county. It is situate at the junction of Landman's Creek with the Riv^er Raisin, and lies about 55 miles south-west of Detroit. For a description of Barry, Eaton, and Ingham counties, which lie on Grand River and its tributaries, the reader is referred ^^to the following, which is copied from the Detroit Gazette, in which it first appeared under the signature of " Pioneer."' Grand River empties into the east side of Lake Michigan, about 245 miles south-westerly from Michilimackinac, and 75 north of the St Joseph's ; and is between 50 and GO rods wide at its mouth, and of sufficient depth to admit vessels drawing eight feet water. On its south bank, near its entrance into the lake, is an eligible situation for a town, the land being excel- 336 APPENDIX. lent, and gently inclining towards the north and west, giving, at the same time, a fine view both ot the river and lake ; but the opposite shore at the same j)lace has a sandy sterile ap- pearance. For about sixty miles up the river on the north side, the Otta- was hold jjosscssion. 'J'here are between eight and nine hun- dred of these peojjle living along Grand River and its tributa- ries, but many of their most populous villages are on lands l>elonging to the United States. This river is the largest stream that waters the west part of the peninsula of Michigan, being liTO miles in length, its wind- ings included, and navigable 240 miles for batteaux ; re- ceiving in its course a great number of tributary streams, among which are Portage, Ued-Cedar, Looking glass, Soft- Maple, Muscota, Flat, Rouge, and Thorn-Apple rivers. All of these, except the last named, put in on the right bank of the Grand River. Its south branch rises in the open country, near the sources of the Raisin, and, after pursuing a winding course of thirty miles, meets with the Portage River, which comes in from the east, and intersects the above branch in town, two south of range one west. Portage River, which has its course through a chain of low marshy prairies, is a deep muddy stream, about fifteen yards wide at its mouth. Its branches interlock with those of the Huron of Lake Erie, and the Indians pass from the former into the latter, with their canoes, by crossing a portage of one mile and a half It is ])robable, that, at no distant period, a canal will be constructed near the route of these two rivers, so as to afford a safe and easy inland communication between Lakes Erie and Michigan. The distance from Detroit to the mouth of Grand River, by way of INIichilimackinac, is 560 miles. This route in the spring and fall is attended with much uncertainty ; and, in case of a war with the English, the navigation of the Straits of Detroit and St Clair would be rendered doubly dan- gerous. These difficulties would be obviated by a connnunica- tion by water through the interior. The land at the Portage rises 40 or nO feet above the level of the streams on each side ; but a level prairie, two or three miles to the west of that place, is said to extend from one river to the other. TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 337 From the junction of the Portage and south branches, this river pursues a north-west course till it meets with Soft-Maple River, m town seven north of range six west ; receiving, in that distance, Red-Cedar and Looking-glass Rivers from the east, and Grindstone, Red and Sebewa Creeks from the south and south-west. Grindstone Creek, so named from a sandstone ledge througii which it runs, empties into the river about 20 miles below the mouth of the Portage branch. It is 20 miles long, afford- ing several good sites for mills, and runs mostly through an open beautiful country ; but is in some instances skirted with bottoms of heavy timbered land. From the mouth of this creek to that of Looking-glass River, a distance of 45 miles in a direct line, the Grand River rims through a tract of timbered land, which is several miles in ex- tent on each side, abounding in creeks and springs of excellent water, and bearing a growth of maple, basswood, cherry, oak, ash, white wood, elm, black walnut, butternut, and some other kinds in lesser quantities. Below Looking-glass River, for 40 or 50 miles, tracts of open land are found along the banks, but extensive forests immediately in the rear. The river bottoms are from a quarter of a mile to one mile in width, and the tim- ber-lands are covered with a rank growth of rushes (Er/uiseHim hyemale)^ on which the Indians keep their horses during tlie winter. It is found that cattle and horses do better on thesf rushes than when kept on hay ; and it would seem, from their abundance, that nature here intended them as a substitute for that article. The surface of the land, after leaving the river bottoms, is rolling ; and it rises sufficiently high to give rapidi- ty to the numerous creeks that so abundantly irrigate this part of the country. Red-Cedar river is 35 yards wide, and puts in about mid- way between Grindstone Creek and Looking-glass River. It rises in Whastenaw and Shiawassee counties, and can be ascend- ed in small boats 25 or 30 miles. A few miles below the mouth of this stream is a ledge of sandstone, which Ibnns a perpendicular waU of 25 or 30 feet in height on each side of the river. This ledge consists of square blocks of stone of a suitable size to be used in building, and which are renderetl 338 APPENDIX. more valuable, from the circumstance of their being on the banks of a large navigable river, which, witli its tributaries, will facilitate its transportation to various sections of the territory. A bed of iron-ore has been discovered in the north-east bank of the river, immediately below this ledge; and, indeed, many of the stones in the lower part of the ledge have a great resem- blance to blocks of cast iron, — presenting a rusty surface very dense, and, when broken, have, in a striking degree, the colour and aj)pearance of iron itself. Four miles above the mouth of the Looking-glass River is the village of P'Shimnacon (Apple Land), Avhich is inhabited by eight or ten Ottawa families, who have a number of enclos- ed fields, in which they raise corn, potatoes, and other vegeta- bles usually cultivated by the Indians. The village receives its name from the Pyrus coronaria (Crab Apple) which grows in gi-eat abundance on the rich bottoms of the vicinity. Sebe- wa Creek puts into the river on the south-west side one mile above this village. It is about 20 miles long, sufliciently large for mills, and, for the last four miles, is very rapid, with a hard stony bottom. liOoking-glass River, which is about 40 yards wide, rises in Shiawassee county, and can be ascended in canoes almost to its source. The country near this river, for 15 miles above its mouth, is what may be tenned tirst-rate timbered land ; but, above that point, it is of an inferior quality, more open, and abounding in tamerac swamps and wet prairies. It is about eight miles b\' land from the mouth of Looking- glass to that of Soft-JNIaple River, which is about 60 yards wide at its entrance into Grand River. It heads in Shiawassee and Saginaw counties, and runs nearly a due west course until it unites with (irand River at the Indian village of Chigau- mishkene. This village consists of 25 houses, and has a ))o])ulation of near 201) souls under the noted chief Cocoose. Here is about 1000 acres of bottom land, of a deep black soil, that has been cleared by the Indians, a part of which they still occupy as planting grovmd ; but the land at this village, as well as that at P'Shimnacon, has been ceded to the United States, and will, no doubt, in a short time, be occupied b}' an industrious white population. There is a large trail leading TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 339 fi'om this village, hy way of Sliiawassee to Detroit, a distance of 130 miles. The Grand River here changes its course ; and, with the exception of twelve miles in length, below Rouge River, runs nearly a west course, to Lake Michigan. Two miles farther down, is the entrance of Muscota River (River of the Plains), which comes in from the north with a rapid current, and is about 40 feet wide. The country through which it runs is but little known, as no lands have been surveyed north of Grand River, below Soft-Maple. It is eighteen miles by land from the mouth of Muscota to that of Co-cob-au-gwosh, or Plat River, with several consider- able creeks putting into Grand River, on each side, in the inter- mediate distance. Ke-wa-goosh-cum's Indian village is situate immediately below the mouth of Flat River, and consists of 16 lodges. It is supposed that the line between the United States and the Indian lands will intersect the Grand River near this place. Flat River is a shallow stream, about 8 roods wide ; and, in ascending, has a general course of north by north-east. Of the country along this river, but little is at present known. It is reported, however, to be of a hilly broken aspect, and many places near its source to abound in lakes and swamps. There is a small lake that discharges its waters into this river, about CO miles above its mouth, in which it is said by the Indians that white fish are found in great numbers, — a circumstance that is rendered more extraordinary, from the fact, that this fish has never been seen near the mouth of Grand River; although it is often taken near the entrances of most of the other tributai-ies of Lake ^Michigan. It is 10 miles from Flat to Thorn-Apple River, which comes in from the south, and, with its numerous tributaries, waters a large extent of country. Its main branch rises in towns two and three north of range three west, and, after running a wes- terly course for more than 40 miles, it takes a northward direc- tion, in which it continues until it empties into Grand River, in the south part of town seven north of range two west. There is a suitable proportion both of open and timber land along this stream, and a great part of each kind may be termed y2 340 APl'KNDIX. first rate. Two Indian villages are situated at the distance of 20 and 2(i miles up tiiis river, and another at its inouth, under the Ottawa chief Nong-gee. The last mentioned village is in- hahited by twelve or fourteen families, who are, by far, the most industrious and respectable band that reside in that i)art of the country. llouge Iliver is 20 miles, including the meanderings, north- west of Thorn-Apple Iliver. It is about 40 miles long, rising near the sources of the ISIaskegon, and has its banks shaded by lofty forests of white pine. From this place to Muck-a-ta-sha's village, a distance of 12 miles, the Grand Iliver pursues a south direction, after which it runs nearly a due west course to Lake Michigan. Six miles above the mouth of the last mentioned inlet, is a rapid of 1 mile in length, where the river, which is here 52 roods wide, is supjjosed to full 25 feet. The banks at the head of the rapid are not more than 4 feet above the level of the river, and they keep a horizontal level until you arrive at the foot of the rapid, where they are nearly 30 feet al)ove the water ; and, consequently, ati'ord convenient opportunities for profitably appropriating a part of the river, by means of a canal or sluice, to the use of mills or machinery. There is a Missionary establishment at (the Thomas station) this place, under the superintendence of the Rev. Isaac M'Coy, who also has the care of the Carey station on the St Joseph's. The jNIission family at present consists of a school teacher, a blacksmith, and two or three agriculturists. The school was opened in the winter of 1827, and now has about 30 Indian children, who receive their board, clothing, and tuition, at the expense of the establishment. There is a trail leading south-west from the rapids to the Kalamazoo Iliver, and thence to the llivers llaisin and Huron. Another leads directly to the moutli of Thorn-Apple River, a distance of only 10 miles on the trail, but 25 round the curve of the river. The country, within this bend, except- ing immediately along the river, is of a rough hilly character, a great part consisting of oak o]jenings of a barren apj)earance, with a few scattering groves of white pine. Most of the land, however, in the neighbourhood of this tract, is of a good qua. TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN. 341 lity, and timbered with all kinds that usually grow on rich al- luvial soils. There is a salt spring, 4 miles below the rapids, which rises out of the ground about half a mile from the river on the east side. The water is said to be, both as to quantity and quality, sufficient to warrant the establishment of works for the manu- facturing of that useful article. Near this place is also a bed of gypsum, of a fine quality, which will, probably, in time, be of great importance to agriculturists in many of the western parts of Michigan. Muck-a-ta-sha, or Blackskin's village, is 6 miles below the rapids, and is situate near the bend of the river, on an elevated prairie. There is another village 20 miles lower down the river. From the rapids to the lake, a distance of 36 miles, the river is no where less than 4 feet deep. The current at the former place is too powerful to be ascended with loaded boats. The country along the river, for the first 15 or 20 miles, above the lake, is generally level, and in many instances swampy, with lofty forests of various kinds of timber, and bear- ing an almost impenetrable thicket of under-growth. The country, watered by the Grand River, consists of be- tween 6000 and 7000 square miles ; and, considering its central position in the territory, — the general fertility of the soil on the several branches of the stream,— the convenience of a good and safe harbour at its mouth, together with its many other im- portant natural advantages, — we may be fully justified in the opinion, that it will, at no very distant period, become one of the most important sections of Michigan. No. II. NOTE REGARDING PAUPERISM IN ENGLAND, WITH S03iE SUGGESTIONS UPON EMIGRATION. In the present alarming state of Pauperism, where it ap- pears, from Parliamentary Returns, that the amount of poor- rates collected in England and Wales in 1831, was L. 8,11 1,422, 342 APPENIJIX. being an increase of 8 per cent, on the preceding year, some remedial measure must be forthwith attempted ; and, although it may not at once prove a cure, emigration, it is sul)mitted, holds out, at least, a fair promise of alleviation. This political measure has been powerfully advocated, and no less strenuous- ly reprobated, by men of talent, philantliropy, and worth. While one assures us, that, by opening a channel for surplus population, the only result would be to feed the disease ; the other party makes a powerful ajjpeal to humanity and to sound policy, in behalf of what must, in their view, augment the sum of human happiness, and add to the strength and resources of the State. England has been brouglit into her present dilemma from the abuse of her system of jjoor-laws. To provide for the really destitute is an obligation coeval with, and probably in- herent in, the social compact. AN'lu'n this salutary principle, however, degenerates into a claim for support by h^'althy able- bodied men, with teeming spouses and broods of children, it be- comes a nioi'al and a jjhysical evil of an aj)palling description, and is fraught with the most alarming consequences where it is recognised as the law of the land. Taking it, as admitted, that many parishes of England are sinking under this burden, and having in our remembrance the millions of rich and vacant acres which our colonies present, it mei'its serious inquiry, whether the capabilities of the one may not be made subservient to the necessities and means of the other, in a way productive of advantage to both. It is here unnecessary to designate (what may be a fair mat- ter of choice) which of our colonies shall be preferred ; let us assume that Upper Canada has been selected. The primary object in every scheme of emigration should be, to j)lace the emigrant on his new home, in the circumstances most readily and permanently conducive to his own jirospcrity and to the common weal. It may be doubted whether this has, in most cases, received due attention, and hence the failure of many a plan. An impcn-tant link would seem to have been hither- to awanting in the chain of emigration. An active and steady superintendence in the colonies to j)ave the way for emigrants is still a desideratum, by which those scenes of misery and dis- PAUPERISM IN ENGLAND. 343 appointment, so frequently occurring, might be materially di- minished or checked. The benefits derived from the present system of emigrant- agency at the entry ports, would be essentially increased in various ways, by such a superintendency as is here contempla- ted. The demand for labourers and servants throughout the provinces would be more correctly and systematically ascer- tained. Locations suited to existing circumstances would be selected and provided, either upon government lands or else- where, for parties of parish emigrants, as they might be requir- ed ; and as parishes would benefit equally as government from the services of such an individual, the expense incurred would fall to be mutually adjusted. If a permanent and organized system of this nature should be carried into effect, the following ought to be the natural re- sults. On the one hand, Government would secure a market among mir own subjects for a large extent of land now absolutely unprodtcctwe, adding thereby both to the strength and wealth of the colony, and augmenting the general resources of the State. Besides which, very considerable sums would flow directly into the Exchequer from the sale of the lands. On the other hand, the parishes would shake off a burden, which may be fair- ly enough said to perpetuate itself, and that at a cost (as will be presently shown) far short of bare subsistence to the pau- pers at home for a very limited period. It seems to have been sufficiently established, by Parliamentary inquiry, that every pauper, having a wife and three childi-en under ten years of age, wiU require an extra allowance of 8s. per week, over and above what the overseers can make by hiring out their labour. L. 20 Sterling, therefore, is a moderate computation of the annual expense to be incurred on account of each such family, for subsistence alone, Avithout reference to the many ex- pensive items of contested settlements, medical aid, &c., which figure in every parish rate. Let us now endeavour to estimate the probable expense of removing (say) fifty such families, and establishing them com- fortably in Upper Canada, including the purchase of 50 acres to each family, and maintenance for 60 days after reaching their destination. 344 APPENDIX. Freifiht of l(iO adults fromEneland to Montreal, at I-. 3, 10s. c?ach, L. 3.'>0 Do. of ITHi children at L. 1, l.')S. each, .... i'G2 10 <l Provisions for voyage of 50 days, at Is. per day adults, and atCd. per day for children, ...... 4,37 10 n Price of .",0 acres of land to 50 persons at 7s. per acre, . . K75 • Board in Canada for fiO days, at Is. to adults, and fid. to children, 525 Implements and seed for S acres to each family supposed sufficient to support them, (say) . . . . 150 Transport from Montreal to Upper Province, (say) . . loo Incident-s, (say) KNi L. 2ii00 In forming an estimate per contra, let each male pauper be takt'n as a healthy man of the age of 40, (the great proportion w'ill he under) his chance of life by the Northampton tables is something above 2;j years. In addition to this, it must be re- membered, that, as a pauper declines in years, the expense to his parish will naturally increase. To prevent, however, all cavil, let the value of his life be taken only at eleven years in ])lace of twenty.three. Eleven years' cost of 50 families, at L.20 per annum each, . L. 11,000 Deduct total expense of removal and establishment in Canada, 2,800 Permanent saving, L. 8,200 These calculations may be objectionable in some particular items, but, as a whole, it is believed, they are tolerably correct. Nor does the above sum, large as it is, fairly indicate the real gam of the parish, for, it is plain, that by removing those pau- pers for whom no profitable employment could be found, more ample room is left for the labourers who remain, and of whom, it is reasonable to assume, that many would ere long have come upon the parish for aid, had no removal of others taken place. It has been proved, that in parishes where there were perhaps 100 labourers without work, the removal of 20 restored the de- mand to a wholesome state. Should a measure of this nature be adopted, a fair opportuni- ty will be afforded of effecting some wliolesome alterations upon the poor-laws, and it does not appear how this can be brouglit about without relieving the eaistiny pressure. Let the » It might be practicable either to provide employment with board for expect- ed emigrants, or to prepare their land, so that they might find it partly in crop. In either case this Item would be saved. Five acres in potatoes and maize would maintain a family for 12 months in abundance. PAUPERISM IN KNGLAND. 345 law be restored to somewhat of its pristine and wholesome na- ture. Let the aged and the destitute be cai"efully provided for, and let some power be reserved to meet any great or unexpect- ed stagnation of employment, or of distress in the land ; but in every case where the pauper shall be able-bodied, let the j)arish have the right to propose emigratiou on a fit and proper plan, or to be absolved from all obligation to provide maintenance or work for vigorous and healthy men. This may stagger many, as a cruel alternative to the man who actually possesses at this hour his right of settlement as the law stands. Should some such enactment, however, not take place, all attempts to cor- rect the evils of the poor-laws will prove futile and vain. And it should be borne in remembrance, that a party of neighbours, with their wives and children, comfortably transfen-ed from vhe discord and squalid misei-y of English paupers, to the actual possession in fee simple of 50 acres of good land in a healthy climate, can scarcely be admitted to complain, with justice, of having their interests neglected or their rights despised. Should the views here stated be at all sound, it is surely a matter of serious import, in the present degraded and inflam- matory state of our peasantry, once their country's pride, to form some arrangement on the plan suggested. It would be a vain attempt, within the limits of this note, to touch upon the pauperism of Ireland, but it may be well to re- member, that, in relieving England of those agricultural la- bourers who cannot find employment, a short breathing time may be taken to legislate for Ireland. The influx of Irish la- bourers has to some extent fostered the evil which exists, and which would experience a temporary alleviation by the remo- val of those English labourers from tlie market for labour. No doubt this would soon be at an end, as the supply from Ireland would soon become superabundant, and the tide would be roll- ed back again whence it came. But, meantime, legislative measures might be arranged either to provide for them at home, or to offer them emigration from proper Irish funds. Let it always be had in remembrance, that emigration, as a corrective of pauperism, must ever prove nugatory, unless accompanied by wholesome enactments for correcting the evil which has called for its aid. Adam Feugussox. 34n APPENDIX. The subject of the foregoing note would appear also to have engaged the attention of a Gentleman who has opened an ex- tremely useful establishment in London, and who is at present (I believe) engaged in preparing an extensive work upon emi- gration. AN ADDRESS TO MAGISTRATES, LANDOWNERS, AND EATE-PAYERS. Genbral Colonial Ofpicb, 140 Lraclenhall Street. The object of this Address is to point out to ^Magistrates, Landowners and llate-payers, a novel, but easy and effectual method of promoting the emigration of paupers to the Bri- tish North American Colonies. The advantages of pauper emigration to those of the labour- ing class who remove, as well as to those who remain at home to the owners and occupiers of land in this country, as well as to persons of the same classes in the colonies, whose chief want is the want of labourers — the unqualified and extensive benefits of pauper emigration— are at length so generally un- derstood, that upon this point it is unnecessary to say another word. Prejudice has been subdued by facts. Within the last year or two, the rate-payers of very many parishes have been relieved by furnishing to the poor and the necessitous the means of obtaining an advantageous settlement in the British colonies of North America ; whilst every report from those colonies acknowledges the reciprocal benefits experienced from the influx of laborious settlers. The natural result is, a gene- ral desire on the jjart of the labouring poor to obtain the means of emigrating to Canada, and on the part of the owners and occupiers of land heavily burdened with poor rates, to afford to paupers the means of removal from misery, discontent, and temptation to evil courses of life. But there yet remain some great practical difficulties in the way of extensive pauper emigration. The dependent poor are willing, nay most anxious, to remove ; rate-payers are desirous to provide funds for the removal of paupers; shipowners abound who are ready to convey poor emigi-ants to Canada, at PAUPERISM IN ENGLAND. 347 a cost -n-hich is trifling compared with that of maintaining paupers at home : but there has not been established any sys- tematic method of enabling these three classes to co-operate for their common advantage. Let us suppose a number of pauper families anxious to emigrate, the rate-payers of their parish willing to promote their emigration, and a shipowner who would rejoice to obtain passengers in his ship which he is about to dispatch in ballast ; still much trouble must be incur- red by the rate-payers in making a contract with the ship- owner and in placing the paupers on ship-board ; whilst, after all, the security for the performance of the contract — for punc- tuality in the time of sailing — for the accommodation and due supplv of the emigrants during their voyage — and for such at- tention to their wants on arriving in the colony as should en- able them to reap without delay the great advantages of emi- gration, is at best very imperfect- These are the difficulties which must be removed before pauper emigration can be con- ducted with facility and satisfaction to all the parties concerned. In order to remove these difficulties — to facilitate, as much as possible, the emigration of paupers at the cost of rate pay- ers, and above all to satisfy the benevolent that their humane purpose will be strictly carried into effect, it appears to be in- dispensably necessary that a new occupation should be under- taken by persons pi-operly qualified to conduct it, viz. that of serving as a medium of communication between rate-payers and ship-owners, by contracting with parish-officers under ftill responsibility, and with every security for the due performance of the contract, for the removal of paupers either fi-om their parish or from a given port, to a given destination in the co- lonies. In order to follow this occupation, the undersigned have established a " House of Agency for Emigration" in London. They have set on foot an extensive correspondence with the colonies of Upper and Lower Canada, Nova Scotia, New Bruns- Avick, and the Australasian settlements, whereby they will be enabled at all times to point out the settlement where the greatest demand for labour exists, and to which therefore, poor emigi'ant labourers ought to be directed ; whereby also they will possess the means of procuring advice and assistance to poor emigrants on their amval at the colony to which they 34R APPENDIX. mav be destined ;— and they now propose to enter into corUracti witli jjarish-ofFicers and others for conducting the emigration of paupers. Tlic terms of such contract are specified below, and it is hoped they will be found to contain ev^ery security which the most cautious and benevolent guardians of the poor covdd desire. It will thus l)e seen, that when the rate-payers of a })arish have formed the wish to promote the emigration of a number of paupers desirous to emigrate, their wish may be at once carried into effect without farther trouble or anxiety beyond that of correspondence with the imdersigned, who undertake to furnish the fullest information upon every point which may be interesting to those who may be pleased to con- fide in them, and to incur the resjmit.sibilitj/, as well as the trouble, of carrying into full eii'ect the wishes of those with whom they may enter into contracts. Terms of Contract. 1. Passage to be provided for such sum as may be agreed upon. 2. Port of embarkation and debarkation to be specified. 3. Day of sailing to be specified, and if any delay take place, altfwugh from wind, weather, or any other equally unavoidable cause, the passengers to be maintained at the expense of Robert Gouger and Co. according to the scale of rations. 4. Provisions to be provided from the day fixed for embarka- tion according to the following scale — Sclieme of Provisions, for a Mess of Six Men or Women for each Day cfthe Week. - Bread. Beef. Pork. Pre- served Meal*. Flour or Rice. Peas. Tea. Cocoa or Coflee. Sugai. Rum. Sunday, . . ft. 4 «). Ih. ft). 2 Jb. 3 pints. oz. oz. oz. 6 pints. 1 Monday, . . 4 |... 3 2 6 1 I Tuesday, . . 4 3 ... 3 6 { 1 1 We<lnesday, ^ 3 o ^ (J I 1 Thursday, . ^ 3 3 G 1 1 Friday, . . . 4 ... 3 ... 2 G 1 1 Saturday, . 4 3 3 1 4 6 1 1 • The preserved meat is cooked, and free from bone. PAUPERISM IN ENGLAND. 349 In case of substitution, the following proportions are to be observed : 1 lb. of raisins or ^ lb. of currants, to be equal to 1 lb. flour. I oz. of cocoa or coffee, to be equal to ^ oz. tea. 5. Sum to be paid to the emigrants on their arrival. 6. One-half of the passage-money agreed for, to be paid on the day of embarkation ; the remainder to be deposited with Messrs , and to be paid to R. Gouger & Co. so soon as they will furnish proof of the landing of the emigrants at the specified colonial port. Robert GouoEa & Co. 1 48, LeadcnhaU-Str£et, GENERAL COLONIAL AGENCY OFFICE. 148, Leadenhall-Street. The above office has been established for the purjxjse of affording to persons residing in any of the British Colonies facilities for transacting public or private business with Eng- land. The undersigned, from their extensive mercantile connec- tions, are enabled to dispose readily of any colonial produce, or other goods which may be consigned to them for sale, as well as to execute, upon the most favourable terms, any commis- sion for the purchase of British manufactures with which they may be entrusted. All business connected with the estates of persons dying in tlie colonies, and with the remittance of property, transacted with the most punctuality and despatch. The pay and pension of Officers residing in the colonies, re- ceived and remitted. Goods and baggage belonging to persons ariiving in England, cleared and delivered. Robert Gouger & Co. ( 350 ) No. III. \^Every exertion in his j)oircr is made ht/ /lis Majesty s Af/ent fa alleviate the difficulties of Emigrants, and of these the following is a sample.^ ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. QUEBKC, \st May 1832. There is nothing of more importance to Emigrants on arrival at Quebec, than correct information on the leading points con- nected with their future pursuits. jNIany have suflfered much by a want of caution, and by listening to the opinions of inte- rested designing characters, who frequently offer their advice unsolicited, and who are met generally about wharfs, and land- ing places frequented by strangers. To guard emigrants Irom failing into such errors, they should, immediately on arrival at Quebec, proceed to the Office of the Chief Agent for Emi- grants, in Sault-au-Matelot Street, Lower Town, where every information requisite for their future guidance in either getting settlement on lands, or obtaining employment in Upper or Lower Canada, will be o))tained ((jmtls.) The following Directions are of importance to the Emigrant arrivinc/ in Canada, and are addressed to Iiim in the simplest language. PreA-ious to disembarkation, arrange your baggage in a small compass, the fewer j)ackages the better, but have them well se- cured, old dirty clothing, large boxes, and other useless arti- cles, are not worth the carriage. If you have any provisions left, such as oatmeal, potatoes, &c. you can sell them at Que- bec at a profit, and avoid the exjjense of transport, and you can purchase baker's bread, butter, tea, sugar, and other necessaries more suited for your journey. All sorts of provisions may be bought cheaper, and generally of a better (piality, in Montreal and Upper Canada, than at Quebec. Dress yourself in light clean clothing. Females frequently bring on sickness, by be- ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 351 ing too warmly clothed. Cut your hair short, and wash daily and thoroughly. Avoid drinking ardent spirits of any kind, and when heated do not drink cold water. Eat moderately of light food. Avoid night dews. By attending to the preceding di- rections, sickness will be prevented, with other serious incon- veniences. When every thing is ready for disembarkation, and if the ship is lying at anchor in the river, — take care in pass- ing from the ship to the boat ; avoid all haste, and see that your baggage is in the same conveyance with yourself, or left under the charge of some friend, with your name on it. If the ship hauls to the wharf to disembark, do not be in a hurry, but await the proper time of tide, when the ship's deck will be on a line with the quay or wharf. Passengers are entitled by law to the privilege of remaining on board ship 48 hours after arrival ; and it is unlawful for the Captain to deprive his pas- sengers of any of their usual accommodations for cooking or otherwise : you may therefore avoid the expense of lodgings, and make all your arrangements for prosecuting your journey. Previous to disembarkation, should sickness overtake you, pro- ceed immediately, or be removed to the Emigrant Hospital, in St John's Suburbs, where you will be taken care of, and provid- ed with every thing needful until restored to health. Medi- cine and medical advice can also be had at the Dispensary at- tached to the Quebec Charitable Emigrant Societ_v. This so- ciety will grant relief to all destitute emigrants. In Montreal there is a similar institution for the relief of emigrants. It is particularly recommended to emigrants, not to loiter their va- luable time at the port of landing; but to proceed to obtain set- tlement or employment. Many have regretted when too late, that they did not pursue this course, and take advantage of the frequent opportunities that presented themselves for settle- ment in convenient situations in Upper or Lower Canada, in- stead of squandering their means and valuable time in looking after an imaginary paradise in the aguish swamps of Illinois and ]\Iissouri, or other distant regions of the Western States. There is no portion of the American continent more congenial to the constitution or habits of emigi-ants from the United King- dom, or that offer a wider field, or surer reward for industry and good conduct, than the fertile districts of Upper Canada 352 APi'KNinx. or Lower Canada. Many emigrants will find employment in the City of Quebec and its vicinit_v, as also in and about ISIont- real. Single men in particular are advised to embrace tiie oder; but emigrants with large families had better proceed without delay to Ujiper Canada, as hereafter directed, or to situations in Lower Canada, particularly the Eastern 'I'ownsbips — and, if they have sons and daughters grown up, they will find a sure demand for their services. Artificers, and mechanics of all denominations, and farming labourers, if sober and indus- trious, may be sure of doing well. IJlacksmiths, particularly those acquainted with steam-engine work, also good mill- wrights and sawyers by machinery, are much wanted in the Canadas. The following are the current rates of wages paid in Upjier and Lower Canada to persons acquainted with the country ; — strangers ought not to ex})ect so much : Upprr Canada. ship Carpenters and Joiners, per day os. (id. to 7s. 6d. Bricklavers and Masons . . do. 4s. (id. to 7s. (id. Blacksn'iiths, Millwrislits, &c. do. .'is. (id. to 8s. (id. Kami At Coinuion I/abourers, iS:r. do. l's. (id. to 4s. (Id. Ditto ditto, per month, and found, .Ills. (id. to (ills. Od. House Servants (Men) do. do. 3lls. Od. to .50s. (Id. Ditto do. (Fem:iles)-lo. do. 20s. Od. to 35s. Od LowRR Canada. .Ss. 6d. to Bs. Od. 4s. Od. to 6s. 6d. ;{s. (id. to 7s. 6d. L's. od. to .'is. Od. aos. Od. to .5()s. (td. 20s. Od. to 405. Od. lOs. Od. to 30s. Od. A great number of labourers are employed on board ships, and about timber-yards, at Quebec and Montreal, who get from 3s. to 4s. Od. a-day, and generall}' found. The extravagant ha- bits engendered in such occupations, are decidedly in favour of the labouring emigrant proceeding immediately to the country. Emigrants with families, and who are possessed of from L. 20 to L. 25, are advised to jiush immediately into the woods, in the vicinity of old settlements, where they can obtain provi- sions for their spare labour. The difficulties, although great at first, soon subside, and much experience is the result. The cost of clearing wild lands, and making it ready for crop, is from 50s. to 70s. per acre in Upper Canada, and the Townships of I^wer Canada. To these I should say, select a favourable spot for your log-house near a spring of water, or running stream, and where a cellar to keep your potatoes in winter can be dug under the house.' If you proceed to build houses and • Carefully clear the timber and brush to a distance from your dwelling and out buildings, or, in the event of fire in the woods, great risk Is incurred of their being destroyed. ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 353 clear lands on a large scale on first arrival, it rarely suc- ceeds so well; for the price of labour is so high, and the difficul- ty of getting persons to work, added to the great expense of providing food for increased numbers, until produced from your own land, ought in every instance to induce the strange emi- grant and family to proceed cautiously in laying out their mo- ney ; but a crop of potatoes and fodder for a cow is the first object, and this may be accomplished the first year, if you arrive early. The second you will be enabled to feed your family with the necessaries of life, and the third year you may find yourself possessed of a yoke of oxen, a cow or two, and a year old calf, a couple of pigs, poultry, &c. abundance of provisions for your family, and fodder for your cattle. The Irish and Scotch peasantry know well how to value the economy of a milch cow ; every new settler ought to strive to obtain one as soon as possible, taking care to provide a sufficiency of fodder for the long winter. Cattle require a little salt in the Canadas. It is not considered necessary to go farther into the details of the first settlement, as on all these points you will be guided by your own observation on the spot, and the advice you will get from the local agents and superintendents. Great caution is necessary in aU your transactions. When you stand in need of advice, apply to the government agents, or other respectable sources. You will find many plans and schemes offered to your consideration, on your route from Quebec to your destination in Upper Canada ; but turn away from them, unless you are well satisfied of the purity of the statements. Should you re- quire to change your English money, go to the banks or some well known respectable person. The currency in the Canadas, is at the rate of 5s. to the dollar, and is called Halifax cur- rency. The value of English gold, or silver, is regulated by the rate of exchange in England, which fluctuates. At present the gold sovereign is worth 23s. 6d. to 24s. currency. In New York 8s. is calculated for the dollar ; hence many are deceived when hearing of the rates of labour, &c — 5s. in Canada, is equal to 8s. in New York; thus, 8s. New York currency is equivalent to 5s- Halifax. In Upper Canada, and in the Townships of Lower Canada, the tenure of lands is " Free and Common Soc- cage," as in England. In the Seigneurial or French parts of z 354 APPENDIX. Lower Canada, the feudal or French tenure is the custom. In the Canadas you live under the British laws and constitution, and are less incumbered with taxes or local imposts, than in any other country on the face of the j^lobe. You ought, previous to leaving Quebec, to apply at the Post-office should you ex- pect any letters, and if you are writing to your friends in the United Kingdom by post, you must pay the postage : so also when writing to the United States. Letters from one part of the Canadas to the other, do not require to be post-paid. Emi- grants may forward letters to the United Kingdom from Que- bec, by taking them to the keeper of the Merchant's Exchange, and paying one penny for each. Having arranged all your business at Quebec, you will pro- ceed without loss of time to Montreal, by steam-boat, on your route to Upper Canada. Two steam-boats ply daily to ]Mont- real, 180 miles up the St Lawrence, which is jjcrformed in 24 to 30 hours. The fare for deck passengers, is 7s. Gd. for adults; children under 12 years pay half-price, and under 7 one-third. These steam-boats belong to private individuals. Government is in no manner connected with them. At Montreal you will find a government agent, who will advise you should you re- quire it. Routes to the principal places in Upper Canada, as follows : Quebec to Montreal, by steam-boats, ... 7s. 6(i. cost. Montreal to Prescott, by nurham boats, . . Os. 3d. Prescott to Kingston, by steam, ... 5s. (id. Ditto to Coburgh, or Port Hope, ... 7s. G(i. Preacott to York, Caiiital of Upper Canada, Hamilton •) jqs, and Niagara, ... / From Niagara, you proceed by land to Fort Erie, opposite Buffalo on Lake Erie, where steam-boats, or sailing schooners, will convey those destined to Port Talliot, or otlier parts of the London district, or vicinity of Lake St Clair.^- Persons going to settle on the lands of the Canada Company will proceed to York or Burliugtou Eay head of Lake Ontario. At most of the preceding towns and landing places, you will find government agents. If you are bound to Perth, or New Lanark, or the vicinity, disembark at Prescott ; or you may go ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. 355 via By-Town on the Ottawa. If for the thriving settlements in the Newcastle district, disembark at Coburgh or Port Hope, on Lake Ontario. Those going to the townships of Seymour may proceed from Kingston, by the beautiful Bay of Quinte, to the mouth of the Trent lliver, from whence a road, distance 1 8 miles, brings you to Seymour. If proceeding to the Home or Western districts, disembark at York, the capital of Upper Canada. Emigrants going any where beyond York, will in ge- neral find it their interest to make it their route. If for the London district, proceed by the Niagara frontier, to Lake Erie, and the Talbot Settlement. If for By-Town, Grenville, Hull, Horton, or other situations on the Ottawa River, proceed from Montreal, and Lachine, by the usual conveyances. Crown lands, of the most fertile quality, are prepared for the reception of emigrants in many parts of Upper Canada, and will be sold, payable by instalments. The following offices have been opened by the Commissioner of Crown Lands in Upper Canada, for the convenience of Emigrants : — In the Batliurst District, Mr M'Naughton will open his office at By-Town. Major Campbell, of the Township of Seymour, for the Mid- land District. JMr Ritchie for the Home District, and will reside in Sunni- dale. Mr Mount, Deputy-Surveyor, for the Western District, be- tween Carradoc and the St Clair. Emigi-ants may obtain employment, for two or three months, on the roads, in several Townships, in the Western and Home districts of Upper Canada. Routes to the principal settlements in Lower Canada, are as follows : — District of Quebec, south side of the River St Lawrence. Township of Frampton, 36 mUes from Quebec by Point Levy, a thriving settlement inhabitants mostly Irish. Townships lying contiguous to the Kennecbec road, beyond Frampton, offer good prospect for settleinent. The lands are principally private property. The seigniory of St Giles, 30 njiles from Quebec, by St Nicholas and the Craig's road, is 356 APPENDIX. favourably situated for emigrants, from its contiguity to the capital, and is increasing rajjidly ; its population is principally Irish. New Argyle, in the seigniory of St Croix, 8 miles from l{i- chardson's Tavern, on the Craig's road in St Cliles, and 38 miles from Quebec ; the new road to the Township of Inver- ness passes through this settlement. Inhal)itants, principally Highlanders from the Island of Islay, and Irish — The lands in this part are of good quality. The settlements of Ulster, Yorkshire, Dul)lin, and New Hamilton, commence four miles beyond New Argyle, and 42 miles from Quebec, and are situated in the flourishing Town- ship of Inverness : througli which a new road has been nearly finished to the borders of the Township of Halifax. The in- habitants of Inverness are from various parts of the United Kingdom. Those from England are principally from York- shire ; those from Ireland, mostly from the Northern Counties ; and those from Scotland are chiefly Highlanders from the Island of Arran. Beyond Inverness lie the Townships of Halin fax, Chester, and Tingwick, good lands fiar settlement ; but at present there is no convenient road to them. The Township of Athabaska joins Inverness, and is a desirable place for settle- ment. The Township of Leeds through which Craig's road passes, lies to the left of Inverness, is 50 miles from Quebec, and is in. creasing rapidly in population. Inhabitants, Scotch, Irish and Knglish. The Township of New Ireland, through which Craig's road also passes, lies beyond I,ecds, (;0 miles from Quei)ec, and is increasing much in jjopulatitju. The inhabitants are principally Irish, and a number of English of the Wesleyan connexion, also about 25 American families from the United States. Craig's road leads to Shipton and Dudswell, but is inipass, able for wheel-carnage transport licyond Ireland. From the Market-slip, in the Lower Town of Quebec, ferry, boats go daily as the tide suits to St Nicholas, 12 miles up the river on the south side, where Craig's road begins. Eastern Townships of Lower Canada. The present route ig via Three llivers, «J0 miles above Quebec, by steam-boat, here INFORMATION TO EMIGRANTS. 357 cross the St Lawrence to the south side, and proceed to Slier- brook^ by Nicolet, La Buie, and Drummondville ; or you may proceed to Sorrel 40 miles above, Three Rivers, on the south side of the St Lawrence, and there disembark. The rate of pas- sage from Quebec by the steam- boat will be about the same as to stop at Three llivers, and you will avoid the ferry. A good road leads from Sorrel to Sherbrook, by Yamaska and Drum- mondville. The distance from Quebec to Sherbrook in a straight line by the new road to Inverness, when finished, is 99 miles, and by Three Rivers or Sorel: the route to be taken for transport is 160 miles, of which 70 is land-carriage. Sherbrooke is the capital of the Eastern Townships, and is surrounded by thriving settlements, particularly Stanstead, where industrious fanning labourers or mechanics are much wanted, and are sure (by good conduct) to do well ; as also the Townships of Stanbridge, Brome, Dunham, Potton, and the Seigniory of St Armand, the route to which is by St John's. Chambly is 40 miles from Sorrel, and 18 from Montreal, — Labourers may get employment at the canal now making at Chambly. Chateauguay, Godmanchester, and Sherington, from 25 to 40 miles from Montreal, south side of the St Lawrence, are thriving situations. North side of the River St Lawrence, and in the district and vicinity of Quebec, are the settlements of Beauport, Stoneham, Tewksbury, Valcartier, and Jacques Cartier, Deschambault, and the settlement of Portneuf. Inhabitants, principally Irish. Three Rivers and its vicinity, 90 miles from Quebec, give employment to many emigrants. In the rear of Berthier, 130 miles above Quebec, are the Townships of Brandon, Kilkenny, Rawdon and Kildare. New Glasgow settlement in the seigniory of Terrebonne, is about 30 miles from Montreal. Persons bound for the Town- ships bordering on the Ottawa river, particularly Lochaber, Templeton, Hull, &c. will take their route and departure from Montreal. There are many desirable situations for settlement belonging to private individuals in Upper and Lower Canada. The names of the proprietors or the agents may be had on ap- plication at this office. It is particularly recommended to emigrants to be exceeding- 358 APPENDIX. ly cautious in ascertaining the titles to such lands as they may settle on. Recommendation for lands to the respective Township agents and superintendents, of settlements in Upper and I^ower Canada, with routes, &c. will be furnished to emigrants ((/rails.) A. C. Buchanan, Chief Agent. Emigrant Depahtment, Quebec, 1st Mat/ 1832, No. IV. FOR THE INFORMATION OF EMIGRANTS. Office of His Majesty's Chief Agent for the Superintendence of Emigrants in Upper and Lower Canada. QUBBEi", \st June 1032. Emigrants arriving at Quebec from the United Kingdom, and who are desirous of settling in Upper Canada or Lower Canada, or of obtaining employment, are informed that all ne- cessary information for their guidance may be obtained [gratis) an application at this office, between the hours of 10 and 3 o'clock daily, Sundays excepted. The principal situations in Upi)er Canada, where arrange- ments are made for locating emigrants, are in the Bathurst, Newcastle, Home, and Western Districts. Indigent emigrants, on condition of actual settlement, may obtain a location on the following terms, viz. Fifty acres of land will be allotteil to each head of a family, upon condition of paying at tlie rate of ns. currency per acre. The first jjayment to be made at the expiration of three years, and the whole to be paid by annual instalments of L. 3 • 2 : 6 each, with interest, to commence from the expiration of three years. The government will incur the expense of building a small CITY OF THE FALLS. 359 log.house, for the temporary accommodation of settlers on their respective locations, and will afford some assistance towards opening roads to the lands proposed to be settled, but will make no advances in provisions or utensils, and the settlers must de- pend entirely upon their own resources for bringing their lands into cultivation. Settlers with means will have opportunities of purchasing Crown Lands in several parts of the province at the public sales, due notice of which may be obtained on application at the Commissioner of Crown Lands' office, York, or to the fol- lowing government agents : Ottawa and Bathurst Districts. f Mr M'Naughton, at Syiown. Newcastle District, Mr M'Douall, Peterboro. Home District, Mr Ritchie, Tmonsliip of Medonto. Western District, Jlr ]\Iount, Carrodoc and St Clair. A. C Buchanan, Chief Agent. No. V. [ The following Project has already commenced, and I doubt not will to some extent succeed. It is hoped the style of Architecture, S^c. may be in liarmony with the scene around.'] " CITY OF THE FALLS." Mr Forsyth having disposed of his interest in the property at the Falls of Niagara, it is proposed to foimd a city, which, from the elevated position of the grounds, and their contiguity to the Falls, must necessarily possess the exclusive advantages of a situation, which, without all question, is the most healthful on the Continent of North America. The heat of the summer can there be borne with pleasure, while at the same time the annoyance of mosquitos and other 360 APPENDIX. insects is unknown. Various are the conjectures whence arises the remarkable sahihrity of this region, but the most rational is, that the agitation of tlie surrounding air produced by the tremendous falls, combines with tlie ele\ ation and drj'ness of the soil, and the absence of all swamps, to produce this happy result. The insalubrity of the Southern (as well as the Western) States of this continent, sends forth every summer vast num- bers of the resj)ectable inhabitants to seek health n these northern latitudes. The chief place of attraction has been the springs of Saratoga- Various other places are resorted to, but none afford that quiet in the midst of fashionable gaiety and relaxation from ordinary avocations, which is to be found at Aix la Chapelle, Versailles, IJath, Brighton, liuxton, and many other places in Europe, where the most secluded privacy can be enjoyed in the midst of the most refined society, 3'et so regulated, tiiat economy, health, recreation, and pleasure are united ; where the well dressed and the well conducted, without reference to rank or wealth, may and do mingle with lords, grandees, and princes. On the continent of North America, there is no other place so well adapted as the grounds at tlic Falls for the formation of a city, embracing all the advantages essential to the jjursuits and habits of the people of the United States and Canadas, whither all who visit the continent of North America resort, to behold the most stupendous ! the most sublime ! of Nature's works ; — to visit a place, the fame whereof stands pre-eminent and unrivalled throughout the world. The revolution produced by steam, as applied to the move- ment of carriages by land, as well as vessels by water, places the Falls in a new and prominent light. By the various chan- nels of communication now ojiened, and in progress through the State of Ohio, the cities and towns on the INIississippi, the Ohio, Illinois, &c., have become connected with the great lakes Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie, Ontario, Champlain, and the rivers St Ijawrence and Hudson. The proposed " City of the Falls," as to all these remote regions, is placed like the heart in the human body, standing in the direct routes of those travelling from the cities in the CITY OF THE FALLS. 361 valleys of the IVfississippi and Ohio, to New York, Boston, New- Orleans, Montreal, and Quebec, also the new, and rapidly in- creasing State of Michigan, the Canadas, and the Northern States ; so that the site must be regarded as the most appro- priate on the American Continent for the object adverted to, affording an easy approach for the annual assemblage of the fashionable, the learned, and the great. A consideration of these unparalleled advantages, has led to the formation of a company of gentlemen, who have purchased Forsyth's grounds and houses, and who purpose to lay out the lands so purchased in streets, in lots to be sold for buildings, according to a scale insui'ing the general comfort and conveni- ence of the new community. The association purposes to place the superintendence of the establishment under a gentleman, who will provide for the Pavilion and Ontario house, suitable characters, intimately ac- quainted with their duties, so that all who resort there, will find a union of comfort with economy in the midst of a society truly desirable. It is proper to observe, that Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths, will be erected near the cataract, and over these a splendid Pump-room, Reading-room, Library, and Refreshment-rooms, with an Orchestra, for the accommodation of all visitors. That walks and seats are to be laid out upon the most im- proved style of landscape gardening, with grottos, bowers, &c. &c. That lots will be set apart for places of public worship, schools, and halls for literaiy institutions. A number of cottages shall be forthwith erected, and furnished for private families resorting to the Falls during the summer, who wiVL have to provide nothing but their linen and plate, and may dine either at the Pavilion, or in their own cottage. The Pavilion alone is intended to receive gentlemen and families who purpose remaining longer than one week ; the Ontario house for those who may not feel disposed to remain so long. No bar-room will be suffered at either house ; wine of the best quality of its kind will be furnished on such moderate terms, as will afford a liberal profit, without the extravagant prices which so universally prevail. 362 APPENDIX. Peculiar advantages will be afforded such gentlemen as shall erect, during the present or ensuing year, cottages or houses for their permaiu'iit dwelling or sumaicr residences. Tlie streets will he laid out and marked, so that persons de- sirous of acquiring building lots may be accommodated. INIate- rials for building are from ^>0 to 100 per cent, cheaper than in New York, or most otlier cities. Mechanics connected with l)uilding, will find it their inte- rest to acquire a residence at the proposed city. The city will aft'ord a most agreeable permanent residence for respectable faiiiilles with limited incomes, as all the neces- saries, and the chief luxuries, of life are remarkably cheap, where good schools will be formed, and the best society met, without the expense of entertaining them. While at the same time, it will prove a residence admirably adapted for placing children in the way of earning their own independence, either in the United States or Canada. A cliarter will be ajjplied for, so that aliens may hold real estate in the city. PaOPRlETOKS. The Hon. "W. Allan, President of the Bank of Upper Canada. James Buclianan, Esq., His Majesty's Consul, New York. The Hon. Thos. Clarke. The Hon. J. H. Dunn, Receiver- General. Thos. Dixon, Esq., President of the Society of St George, New York. Lieut. General Murray, of the British Anny. James Robinson, Esq. Samuel Street, Esq. The survey, it is expected, will be completed by 1st August, and an agent will attend to give all necessary information. N. B. General Murray, with a view to these arrangements, has already fixed his residence at the New City, and several gentlemen contemplate building. Mr Forsyth retains the Pavilion, &c., until December next. ( 3G3 ) No. VI. MR ROBERTSON'S NOTES. It is with much pleasure that I am enabled to confirm the accounts given of Canada and the States, by various communi- cations ; and among others, by the shrewd remarks of an intelli- gent farmer, near Edinburgh, who crossed the Atlantic in 1 830, and of which I shall oHer a short abstract. This individual has thoughts of emigrating, and prudently resolved, in the first place, to view the land of promise, ere he finally determined upon so important a step. Mr Robertson sailed from Greenock in the latter end of April 1*830 for New York, where he landed on the 14th June, and expresses himself greatly surprized at the grandeur of the shops and private mansions, competing, as he quaintly observes, " even with Edinburgh itself,"' " and the masses of shipping from aU quarters of the globe, was in reality a won- derful sight." His fellow passengers were quickly absorbed in the busy population of the city, and he established himself in a re- spectable boarding house at 13/(i per week. The season had be- come warm, and the heat sometimes oppressed our honest Scotchman. The number of common carters employed by the merchants filled him with surprise. The carts were all ticketed, and he noticed upon one a number considerably exceeding 2000. The elegance and cleanliness of the hackney coaches, and the quality of the horses, appear likewise to have particularly at- tracted his attention. While in New York, the anniversary of American Independence came round (4th July), a day of much gaiety and martial display. The discipline of the American troops does not seem to have impressed our traveller with much admiration ; but he justly opposes to their irregularity, the im- portant advantage " that they have no money to raise from the people to uphold such a mass of men doing nothing in time of peace but creating debt, for they have little or no debt, and of course few or no taxes, as I have known them in Scotland, ^yhere no sooneris the one taxgatherer out, than you may be sure another will come in, so much so, that your hand is never out of 364 APPENDIX. your pocket a moment ; and if you have no money, your effects are sure to go for it. Indeed, tliere is more money raised for the city cess in Kdinburgh, than there is of all manner of taxes in the city of New York." Fnnn New York IVIr Robertson proceeded to Washington by rhiladelphia and Baltimore, delighted with the splendid steam-boats and with both of these cities. When at Washing- ton, he visited a Scotch settler in Virghiia, who owned a gang of 150 slaves. This man landed at New York in liUO witli only 40s. He conunenced as a packman, and by steady and frugal industry, had now acquired in property 1000 acres of land, 150 Negroes, 1(> pairs of horses, &c. Tobacco was his staple production. He offered ]\Ir Robertson a situation as manager, which was declined. Having returned to Baltimore, he proceeded across the Alleghany ^Mountains for Pittsburgh, in the stage ; the distance 250 miles, fare 1 dollars, or I.. :i : 12 -. 0. An option was given to him of stopping by the way, and pro- ceeding on the following day, when so inclined. Wheat har- vest had commenced (Kith July), and Mr Robertson notices the cradling or cutting with the scythe, and states the daily work of a man at 2.^ acres. Each cradler has a man to bind, and a man witli a rake is attached to every two cradlers. Hence if we take the wages of a cradler at 2 dollars or 9s. per day, those of a binder at 4/6, and the half of a raker's wages at same rate, = 2/3, tlie expense per acre, supposing 2^ acres to be cut, will be C/fi per acre. Chambersburgh and the adjoining coun- try greatly jjleased Mr Robertson. It reminded liim much ot the Lothians in regard to fertility. He was kindly treated at a farmer's, where he resolved to stop a day and look at a proper- ty for sale, belonging to a Caj)tain "NI'Dougal. This was in Franklin county, Pennsylvania. Tlie soil was rich, and the wheat crop particularly fine. The farm contained 220 acres, of which 140 were in culture, the remainder in wood. It possessed an excellent brick dwelling-house, two bams, stabling, iScc. and the price demanded was 40 dollars or li. 9 per acre, a j)rlce which, in so fine a district, with a canal about to be cut through it, could not ])c deemed out of the way. The country abounds with lime, but which has never yet been brought into use. The wild and romantic scenery of the Alleghany Mountains greatly MR Robertson's notes. 365 delighted ]Mr Robertson, and he was surprized to find the soil upon the summit equally rich as in the valley below. The coun- ty town of Bradford, and the valley in which it stands, he pro- nounces to be one of the most delightful spots he had ever seen, and not the less so, that it bore a strong resemblance to his own native glens. At Bloodyrun he found a pass in the mountains, the very prototype of Killiecrankie itself. About 5 miles from Pittsburgh, Mr Robertson examined a farm with numerous buildings, then on sale- Its owner, a Mr Peebles, had made his fortune upon it, and was about to retire. The fanii containetl 190 acres of good land, forty of these were under wood, twelve ill excellent meadow, and the remainder in cleared arable land. It had a fine brick mansion, good stables, &c. two stUl houses, and two large orchards. The price asked was 40 dollars, but might probably have been bought for less. This district abounds in coal, which is dug from the hiU sides, and appears wherever the road has been cut along the banks. The bustle of Pittsburgh, with its iron foundries, glass and cotton works, &c. at a distance of 2500 miles fi-om the sea, greatly impressed our traveller with a sense of enterprize and resources of the States. B'rom Pittsburgh he made an excur- sion, which occupied him 15 days. During this period he visit- ed Cincinnati, Wheeling, and St Louis. He examined the capabilities of Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, INIissouri, and part of Kentucky, of course in a rather cursory way, but suflSciently to satisfy himself with the favourable aspect of them all : the cli- mate for his constitution he considered too warm, at least at this season; but the productiveness of'the soil appeared to be all that man could desire. In Ohio he visited a thriving settlement of Scotch emigrants, where he was received with the kindness of a brother. From Pittsburgh he directed his course towards the banks of Lake Erie. The route lay through much fine scenery, and the weather soon became sensibly more cool, and the appear- ance of the people more healthy. The country is but thinly set- tled. It abounds with lime and coals, and the crops are very good. A road is now making to the Alleghany river, which wiU open a comminiication with Pittsburgh, and greatly enhance the value of property here. Land may be purchased hereabouts, from two tO'ten dollars per acre. The farm of a Mr Campbell, lately de. 366 APPENDIX. ceased, was now in the market. It contained a good dwelling- house, barn and other buildings, with two copper-stills and a never-failing run of pure water. The price asked was fourteen dollars per acre. The town of F.rie is on the southern bank, 90 miles from BuHiilo. Like all the respectable natives of Scot- land, Mr Robertson paid everywhere much attention to the means of religious instruction. He was much pleased with an Indian villaae which he visited on a Sabbath, near Erie. He savs, " The minister was a Presbyterian ; and I was not a little astonished at finding them so respectable, and so attentive on the worship of God. The minister was a good preacher, and they seemed to be not a little affected with his sermon. I do think that they would really aiiront many who have better op- portunities, and wlio pretend to more." Having stopt a day at Buffalo, which he reached by the steam-boat from Erie, he entered Canada at Blackrock, and pro- ceeded to the Falls, which seem to have impressed him with all those feelings of admiration and of awe natural to a reflecting mind on viewin<i Niagara. The distance from Blackrock to Fort George, or Newark, where the river falls into Lake On- tario, is li'^ miles ; and tliroughout this tract, INIr Kobertson ob- serves, " There are as fine farms on the British side, as if they liad been in the I^othians of Scotland. I had seen nothing equal to them yet in all my travels, and the people look very healthy like, more like the old country pe()j)le than any I have yet met with. The country is more level than any I have travelled, and, of course, easier to farm. I here saw fields of wheat bet- ter than I have seen any Avhere else, Scotland not ercepted. I met with an old Scotciunan on the road. His father was from Ayrshire, and he himself was born in Canada. He owns three farms a little below the Falls, and was on his way to Queenston in search of shearers. He had liis gig, and gave me a ride, when he understood I w^as from Scotland." From York, the capital of Upper Canada, which pleased him much, Mr Robertson visited some countrymen, settled in the township of Esquising. He stopt a night with I\Ir John Mac- farlane, ten miles above York. This gentleman was from Strowan, near Blair-Athol, in Perthshire, had been seven years out, nnd v.-"s drrir;.' wol'. '• I f unnl." sa . ■ 'Slv II olicrt -■!>!!. '■ many MR Robertson's notes. 367 of my countrymen here, and amongst them a friend of my own, all in a thriving way. I saw in this place as good wheat, with^ out ploughing, or I may say harrowing, as I ever saw in Scot- land, with the best farmers, and with all their manoeuvres, and how this comes about must be now explained. They cut the wood in the fall of the year, or perhaps in the winter time, and their cattle feed on the crops of the trees as thev fell them down. The cattle like this better than any other fodder, and this is of gi-eat use to a beginner, as he is often without means of procuring other fodder for the few beasts he may possess. The brushwood and logs being dragged together by his steers, are burnt. The ashes he sells to the manufacturers of potash. The stumps are generaU}^ left so high, that you would think at a distance they were so many men standing among the corn. This being done, the next fall he sows his wheat among the stumps, without ploughing or digging, but applies his steers and a haiTow, and covers his seed as well as he can ; and wonderful in the eyes of an old country man, as I was, he has, after this rough manner of husbandry, wheat that I am sure produces from eight to ten bolls (four or five quarters) per acre, and that is what 1 have seen with my own eyes. These stumps thus left are very troublesome, till he gets them out, which cannot be easily done. Hard-wood stumps require eight or ten years to rot, and those of pine considerably more. This is the common way of going to work with the inhabitants of this wooden coun- try. When a man comes out without means, which is too com- monly the case, for it is natural for every man to like to be a farmer, and especially to be a laird, if he has as much as will buy him one or two hundred acres, he immediately buys his land, and perhaps leaves himself without a penny behind. He then builds a log-house, and perhaps a log- barn, byre, &c. thus sitting down without any thing but what he has put out on his land. A\^ithout the means of subsistence, he is eighteen months at least on his farm before he gets any of the produce of his la- bour, but is creating debt upon his head ; and even in the se- cond year he has but little return, so that he is still creating debt, and is perhaps under the necessity of mortgaging his farm before he gets through this strait ; so that if you were to see men in this position durinj^ the first few years, vou would be 368 APPENDIX. ready to call them a thousand fools for ever coming to America ; and a man would i)crhaj).s call liiniself so, with his neck in the yoke every day, with nothing hut this fann, or rather, as he thinks it, this name of a farm, looking at the rougliness of the work, and the little progress he has made, with perhaps more debt ujion it than its worth, and his livelihood as yet very in- ditterent. W'iien he goes, however, to his next neighbour's house, and sees him, if he has been ten years in his farm, with plenty of every thing that he needs, his farm well cultivated, and no debt, knowing that he was in the same position formerly tliat he is in now, this cheers him up, and when he sees himself still making a little progress, it encourages him, and makes him bear the burden cheerfully. If you should come to the same man's house five or eight years afterwards, and see him in a fine frame-house, with a frame-bam, stables and byres, cattle and riheep, and all manner of poultry, horses and his gig for everv foot he would travel, you would not think this was the same man, or the same farm, the face of things is so much changed ; and when you sit down at his table, with nothing on it but his own produce, you would be apt to think that this is surely a tine country that furnishes these well plenished tables ; and in- deed so it is, but not for idlers, but industry and hard labour only can secure these things, so that the bitter comes before the sweet. " There is another class that comes to this country, without any means, but barely what brings them to it. They ajjjjly to Government for grants of land, and they do get it, (this lias ceased as respects common settlers) ; but they must take their land where Government sees fit to appoint, for you know beg- gars must not be chusers. Whatever the society may be where their lot is, there they must fix, and what is worse, is tlie ex- pense of making out the|r title, as the officers contrive to make them perhaps as high as a purchase, giving them credit, and of I'ourse, when their time comes, if unable to pay, their land is sold to the highest bidder. The taxes also help to this, for al- though small, they may come to more in this period than the peo])le can manage, and thus they may lose all tlieir labour. Between such persons, and those who fall back from other causes, improved farms, both here and in the States, are always MR UOBERTSOn's NOTES. 369 on sale ; besides, there are men who buy land for the express purpose of improving and selling to profit. This is a regular trade aU over America ; so that no man with capital, need be airaid of getting farms of this kind in any part of the country ; this I know by experience. There is another class still that comes to this country, and that is labourers, both men and wo- men, that think when they ai*e here, they may get what they please to ask, and not only so, but that Jack is as good as his employer, if not better ; and we all know that when the servant is above his master, or as high, things will not do long that way, and therefore every one avoids them, when they can do better. Engagements are all by the month, and this I think against both master and servant. Against the master, for he has no constant serA'ant ; and against the servant, for he is perpetually changing, losing his time, and spending his earnings. And now, a per- son may naturally ask, what would you wish me to do, after you have seen so much of both British America and the States, and which do you prefer ? In answer to these questions I would advise all who have a family, and whose capital is about L. 100 clear of their passage out, and who are industrious and willing to submit to such hardships as I have described, to such I would say, the exchange will be favourable, and they will cer- tainly reap the benefit in their old age. Also I would advise the industrious labouring people, who are sober, to come to this country, for they wiU. surely change to the better, both men and women, if they have as much as will carry them out. Smiths will always find a ready market in this country ; their wages are so high, that many horses go unshod solely on ac- count of the expense. A smith willing to work on more mo- derate terms, would get double employ. Tailors and shoe- makers, millwrights and millers, masons and carpenters, have all good business in this country, and the farther into the inte- rior the better. As to which of the places to prefer, British America or the States, / would decidedly go to Upper Canada, as the best place I have seen in all my travels, both for produce and for a market. Wheat was selling in the remotest corner of Upper Canada for a dollar per bushel ; while in Ohio, &c. it was only about one half. The country bears all the crops which can be raised in the States (cotton excepted), with this material difFer- A a 370 APPENDIX. ence, th at the climate is better, and the people more healths, which, in my opinion, ought surely to be looked to, as much as any thing. Tiie taxes are as moderate, if not more so, than in tlie States ; so that this is my opinion and my advice to any one that likes to take it." Mr Robertson proceeded down the St I^awrence to Quebec, pleased with the Upper, but not so nmch so with what came under his view in the Lower, Province, as an agricultural dis- trict. From Quebec he sailed to I'ictou and Halitax, with many poi'tions of the country near which towns, as also with some other parts of these settlements, he was agreeably sur- prized. For emigrants accustomed to fishing and maritime pursuits, they certainly liold out especial encouragement. Air Robertson returned to New York by Roston, and accomj)lished his voyage home in safety and comfort, atibrding a good example of energy and j)rudence to all who contemplate emigration, and who, by confiding in the report of some qualified jierson selected by a few families of the same neighbourhood or district, will be enabled to form a plan of operation essentially conducive to their ultimate success. No. VII. [ The following may prove interesting, as exhibiting the ofgevts of Agricultural atteiition in Lower Canada.'] AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF QUEBEC. PATUOX. His Excellency Matiiew Lord Aylmer, Governor-in-Chief. District Exhibition on Wednesday before Easter, \8th April 18IJ2. The following premiums will be awarded on tlie Upper Town market-place on Wednesday K'th April 1832, at 10 in the forenoon. The samjdes and certificates must l)e deliver- ed to F. X. VaiUancourt, Notary, Assistant- Secretary, as early as the 29th March. AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF QUEBKC 371 Premiums for Grain. Dols- 1. To the person who shall have reaped after a root crop or other drill crop, the greatest weight and the best quali- ty of wheat per arpent, on at least 2 arpents, .... 1 2 2. For the second greatest weight on 1 arpent, ... (J 3. To the person who shall have reaped after a drill crop, the greatest weight per arpent of clean barley, on at least 2 arpents, fi 4. For the next greatest weight on at least 1 arpent, . 4 " It may be remarked, that drill crops are more advan- tageous than grain crops, as the land whi^h has been sub- mitted to them the year preceding has been better ma- nured, that the ground has been better opened by the fre- quent ploughings which it is found necessary to make, and that more care has been taken to destroy bad weeds by fre- quently repeated weedings." 5. To the farmer who shall sow the greatest extent of land with wheat selected seed by seed, and who shall reap the greatest weight of the best quality per arpent, on at least 6 arpents, 10 6. To the greatest weight and the best quality ditto on at least 4 arpents, 6 7. For ditto ditto on at least 2 arpents, 3 8. For ditto ditto on at least 1 arpent, 2 The sample to be a quart taken indifferently from the heap. Vegetables and Hay. 9. To the person who shall raise on land which was in standmg wood, and has been cleared in the ten months pre- ceding, the best crop of turnips on at least 2 arpents, . . 10 10. For the next best crop ditto ditto (> 11. To the person who shall raise the greatest quantity of potatoes on 4 arpents, harrowed or hoed three times to prepare for grain crop, 10 12. To the best crop, per arpent, of yellow turnips, Swedish turnips, choux de Siam, mangel wurzel, carrots or other root crops, in drills, 27 inches apart at least, well Aa2 372 APPENDIX. cleaned, the interval between the drills kept free of weeds by jilougliiiig and harromng ; the whole housed and kept in good condition, and used to feed cattle in winter, on at least 4 arpents, 20 I'A. For the next greatest weight ditto, same conditions, on at least 2 arpents, 1 1 4. For the next greatest quantity, same conditions, on 1 arpent, K 15 To the ])crson who shall have raised and kept in good condition the greatest weight ])er arpent of timothy, clover, franc-foin, or clean timothy clover, on at least 4 arpents, which bore grain after a root croj), anc' on which the hay and gi-ain shall have been sown at the same time wUliout manure for the hay crop, 20 IG. For ditto ditto on 2 arpents at least, 10 Hops. 17- To the person raising the greatest quantity and best quality of merchantable hops fit for exportation, on 2 arjjents at least, lr> 1.3. For the next greatest weight ditto on 1 arpent at least, .- « 1 !). For the next greatest weight ditto on half an arpent, 4 The hops must be put into sacks, each containing 250 lb. Those wishing to conijjete, are to present to the com- mittee suitable certificates, with a sample of one pound weight. Hat/ Seed and Veyetable. 20. For clean red clover-seed, raised in the district, not less tlian one hundred-weight V, 21. For ditto ditto, not less than half a hundred- weight. t 22. For franc-foin seed, raised in this district, not less than one hundred-weight 8 2 ,. For the greatest quantity and the best quality of clean timothy -seed raised in this district, not less than 4 bushels, 8 24. For the greatest quantity and best quality of yel- low field turnip-seel, not less than 50 lb U> AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF QUEBEC. 373 25. For ditto ditto Swedish turnips seed, ditto, ... 10 The samples of the seed are to be taken indifferently from the heap. Premiums on Crops from new Land. 26 To the person who shaU raise on new land which was in standing wood, and was cleared and brought into culture in the eighteen months preceding, the best crop of wheat on at least 4 arpents, 15 27. For the best crop of oats, same conditions, ... 10 28. For the best crop of rye ditto 10 29. For the next best ditto 5 30. For the best crop of potatoes, ditto 10 31. For the next best, 5 32. For the best crop of turnips ditto ...... 10 33. For the next best, 5 Premiums for Flax. 34. To the fanner who shall sow the greatest extent of land with flaxseed, at least 3 arpents, in the year 1831 ; take up the crop at a convenient season ; bind it imme- diately into small sheaves ; place it upright to dry the seed ; when the seed is dry, thrash it to preserve it in good con- dition ; then place the flax to steep in stagnant water for a sufficient time ; take it out and expose it to dry ; when dry, house and convert it into flax. On producing a certificate of the produce of each arpent in flax and seed, with a sam- ple of a pound of flax and a quart of seed, . . . ■ . 25 .35. For the next greatest quantity of land, not less than two arpents, in the same manner, 1(1 36. To the next best not less than 1 arpent, .... 8 For raising Hemp. 37. To the farmer who shall sow hemp-seed, and get the greatest return in weight and quality of seed and hemp per arpent, or at least 3 arpents, 30 The hemp must be steeped in water after the seed is thrashed. A a 3 374 APPENDIX. C y Those wishing to compete for these prizes and fol- lowing, may consult a little pamphlet entitled, " Manner of cultivating and prcpaiing Flax and Hemp, published in 1 H20, by order and at the expense of the (Quebec Agricul- tural Society." It may be obtained from the agents of the Society in the different parishes of the district. The competitors to the prizes preceding for flax may also consult this little pamphlet. The sample of dressed hemp sent to the committee must be of 1 lb. taken indifferently, and the sample of seed of one quart, also taken indifferently. 38. To the farmer who shall sow the next greatest quan- tity of hemp seed, same conditions, on at least 2 arpents, . 25 39. To the next greatest extent of land, same conditions, on 1 i arpent, 20 40. For the next greatest extent of land, same condi- tions, on at least I arpent, 13 41. For the next greatest extent of land, same condi- tions, on 4 arpent, 10 42. For the next greatest extent of land, same condi- tions, on at least 4 arpent ^ Agricultural Ejcperiments. 43. To the farmer who shall report to the Society the manner the most expeditious and the least expensive to clear new lands of woods, &c. stating what crops best suit it, regard being had to the quality of the soil, for the three first years ; the experiment to be made on 5 arpents at least, 8 44. To the farmer who will draw up and exhibit to the Society the best plan for a rotation of crops adapted to the climate, soil, and market of this district, as well as to the form and size of the ordinary farms, 16 45. To the farmer who shall have followed a regular ro- tation of crops of grain and vegetables during at least the last four yeai's, on at least 5 arpents, 16 46. To the farmer who shall exhibit to the Society the most satisfactory details of experiments made to improve AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF QUEBEC. 375 the culture of any or the whole of the following kinds of grain and plants, viz — wheat, rye, barley, oats, beans, peas, buckwheat, turnips, cabbages, potatoes, carrots, mangel wurzel, franc-foin, timothy, clover, lucerne, sahi- foin, hemp, flax, and hops, 20 47. To the farmer who shall exhibit the most satisfac- tory details of experiments on the efficacy and the cost of the following manures, viz. — dung (green and decayed), lime, plaster, burned clay, marl, street dung, salt and any other kind of manure found in this Province, 20 48. To the person who shall have obtained 100 loads of artificial manure, by heating the following substances or parts thereof^ viz — sods, vegetable mould, road mud, cleanings of drains and stable yards, pond mud, straw, sweepings of barns, house sweepings, dead carcasses, re- mains of hides and cloths, horns, wools, ashes, lime, dung of every kind, plaster, all kinds of sea and aquatic weeds, tree leaves, weedings of gardens, fern, salt or sea water, urine, human excrements, the dregs of tanners' tubs, suds, poisonous weeds, &c. corrupted meat and fish, dregs of oU, the waters in which flax or hemp have been steeped, . . 20 49. To the person giving the most satisfactory details of experiments on at least 5 arpents on the advantage of plaster or gypsum as a manure, 10 50. For the best nursery of apple or other finiit trees, engrafted, not less than 200 plants, 20 51. For the best ditto with wild trees, ready to be trans- planted or engrafted, not less than 1000 plants, .... 10 Clotks and Linens of Home Manufacture. 52. To the person who shall make or cause to be made the best cloth called itojfe, or any kind whatever, not less than 20 eUs, 8 53. For the next best, not less than 15 ells, .... 6 54. To the person who shall manufacture the best and finest sail-cloth from hemp, not less than 10 ells, ... 8 55. For the next best, not less than 10 ells, .... 6 50". To the person who shall manufacture the finest and 370 APPENDIX. best linens of flax with a machine, No. 10, not loss than 10 ells, 12 57. For the next best, 10 58. To the person who shall manufacture the finest and best sail-cloth from hemp threail, not less than 10 ells, . 8 59. For the next finest and best, G To the person who shall from his own sheep obtain the greatest quantity of wool of the finest quality, To the next finest and best. The Committee in awarding these premiums will par- ticularly examine the quality of th3 flax and wool, the fineness of the thread of the cloth, and of the regularity of the tissue. The competitors will present to the commit- tee the pieces of cloth or linen, with certificates that they have manufactured or caused them to be manufactured. The certificate may be presented on the day of the exhibi- tion. The committee will consider the flax employed in manufacture, which wUl have been steeped in water as preferable. Fatted Oxen and Sheep. These will be exposed alive on the Wednesday before Easter, 18th April 18;J2, on the Upper Town Market- riace, at 10 in the forenoon, 60. For the ox of Canadian breed, the best and fatlt^st, fattened on green food, 12 6i. For the next best, 10 62. For the next best, H 6.3. For the next best, fi 64. For the fattest and best ox of any breed, fattened on green food, 12 65. For the next best, 10 66. For the next best, « 67. For the next best, 6 68. For the greatest number of oxen, fattened on green food, not less than 8, 8 69. For the next greatest number, not less than 4, . . 12 70. For the 6 liest and fatted sheej), castrated before 2 months old, fed and fattened on green food, 10 AGRICULTURAL, SOCIETY OF QUEBEC. 377 71. For the 6 next best, f> 72. For the 4 next best, 4 Bees. The Committee will award the following prizes at their first meeting after the 1st June 1830 : 73. To the person who shall have wintered the greatest number of bees' hives, and have preserved them in the best state, not less than three, 1st prize, . 8 71. Second prize, 6 (Signed) By order of the Committee, F. X. Vaillancourt, Assistant-Secretary of the Agricultural Society of Quebec. The folloiving Table, as in March 1832, may be of some inlerest, as exhibiting tlie expense of living in the large Mercantile or Military Towns of Canada, and the prude7ice of settlers shm-tening their sojourn in such places ; and also, of shewing tJie returns which farmers within reach of such markets, may expect to realize. PRICES OF PROVISIONS SOLD IN THE MARKETS OF QUEBEC. In the Butchers'' Stalls. Beef, per lb £0 5 @ X'O 6 Pork, per do 6... 007 Veal, per do 5 ... fi Mutton, per do 9 ... 10 Lamb, per quarter ... 7 In the Markets. Beef, per lb £0 4 @ £0 5 Pork, per do 5 ... 6 Mutton, whole, (none) ... Mutton, per qr. (do.) ... Veal, per do 2 6 ... 5 378 APPENDIX. Salt butter, per lb £0 11 Fresh, do. per do 1 C Venison, per do. (none) .... ^faple Sugar, jier II) 4 Tallow, per lb 8 Turkeys, per couple, (none) . • . • Geese, per do. (do.) Ducks, per do 2 9 Fowls, per do 3 Chickens, per do. (none) .... Partridges, per do 4.'} Hares, per do 18 Pigeons, per dozen, (none) . . . Eggs, per do 9 Salmon, whole, (none) Fresh Cod Fish, lb. (none) . . . Sturgeon, per do. do Turnips, per minot, 19 Potatoes, per do 1 (> Cabbages, per 100, (none) .... Onions, per 100, 3 Hay, per 100 bundles, 4 Straw, per 100 do. (none) .... • Do. per bundle, 3 Oats, per minot, 3 Peas, per do 7 6 Flour, per cwt 1 .5 Wood, per cord, 15 :o 1 1 8 .'> 9 3 -0 3 6 4 6 1 9 10 2 1 8 3 6 .') 4 3 K 8 Ifi 17 C ( 379 ) s. -« -" CO C3 r, H O -3 H T3 _> S, tao"© O as u =§ S Of X 2 ^ ^,5 O OS o o •a < c r- 1) rt ■•-* i^ -^ Ur -4-i ^ -{ • 1—1 o ifi o M >^ •f^ 'r- ^ rJ J ■*-> =*-. t«-!' o 'J^ m .<-» '^ flJ ; ) u O- ^ ■7 2:3 3 '^ ^ © c S o ,r C ^ 3 OJ W ^ -^ .2 3 2 ■to e a -J* I ei W t3 O o >> CQ r3 *^ >• O ^ . 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CO ^ U5 to o to ;^tOeOrtIMT-c-HOO-l(N(M.*«5at^O»)000<OtO>OC^ This book is DUE on the last REG^U ^^^^ staimped below JAN 2 5 13 3m-6,'50(550)470 > THE LIBRARY 4/\."^'Tl58 01226 9295 <^.^rv-')\ * , 1 <