IX )NDON PRIDE and IjONDON SHAME 
 
 
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 LONDON PRIDE 
 
 AND 
 
 LONDON SHAME
 
 BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 
 
 "THE CANKER AT THE HEART." 
 "THE DEFENCELESS ISLANDS."
 
 LONDON PRIDE 
 
 AND 
 
 LONDON SHAME 
 
 BY 
 
 L. COPE CORNFORD 
 
 LONDON 
 
 P. S. KING & SON 
 ORCHARD HOUSE 
 WESTMINS T ER 
 
 I9IO
 
 BRADBURY, AGNBW & CO., LTD., PRIHTBRS, 
 
 LONDON AND TONBR1DGE.
 
 TO 
 CHRISTABEL CORNFORD 
 
 WHO SENT ME TO GA THER LONDON 
 PRIDE (WHICH THE COUNTRY FOLK 
 CALL " NONE SO .PRETTY") WHERE 
 IT GROWS INTERTWINED WITH 
 LONDON SHAME.
 
 PREFACE 
 
 " Why are these things so? 
 What ought to be done?" 
 
 In attempting to delineate certain aspects of the 
 life of London, and phases connected with that life, 
 I have dealt directly with several peculiarly distressing 
 subjects. Upon these I should prefer to refrain from 
 moralising. It is not my business to moralise. But, 
 if I may judge by previous experience, it is sometimes 
 expected of him who diagnoses the disease that he 
 should prescribe the remedy. Some years ago, I wrote 
 a series of articles treating of the condition of the 
 poor in this country. They were first published in The 
 Standard, and afterwards collected in a book, under 
 the title of " The Canker at the Heart." Their imme- 
 diate result — so far as the author was concerned — was 
 that I received many letters from excellent persons 
 asking me what " ought to be done ; " and very 
 often these good people sent me various sums of 
 money to spend as I thought fit upon the relief of 
 distress. Some were kind enough to call upon me. 
 I fear that they went away disappointed, for I had no 
 saving universal panacea to give them. Is it there- 
 fore my fault that nothing has been done ?
 
 viii PREFACE. 
 
 A year or so afterwards, I wrote another series of 
 articles, which dealt with the state of this country 
 with regard to preparation for war and the effects 
 of war upon all classes of society. These also were 
 first published in The Standard, and afterwards col- 
 lected in a book ; and the title was " The Defenceless 
 Islands." Their immediate result was — nothing. 
 My publisher sadly informs me from time to time 
 that no one will buy the book. Sensitive as English 
 people are to the pathetic, they were (and are) 
 wholly insensitive to an array of facts which really 
 represent one of the most dangerous consequences 
 of that state of things which (to be honest, the 
 title was presented to me by a friend) I have 
 called " The Canker at the Heart." People do 
 not believe that these islands are in any degree 
 defenceless, and therefore the effects upon the 
 population of a hypothetical war do not interest 
 them. Therefore they did not ask me what, in my 
 view, " ought to be done." I was inclined to regret 
 this circumstance, because in the case of the 
 Defenceless Islands, I could have told them. How- 
 ever, they did not want to know ; and, as in the 
 other case, nothing has been done — less than 
 nothing, in fact. 
 
 What will happen in the case of " London Pride 
 and London Shame ? " I hope (for the sake of my 
 publishers) that a few people, at least, will buy the 
 book. Let me assume that they have embarked 
 upon that speculation, and let me also venture for 
 a moment to assume that these my readers honour
 
 PREFACE. ix 
 
 me by supposing that because I have studied from 
 nature I am therefore competent to suggest how to 
 set right what is obviously wrong. I admit that the 
 supposition is natural, although the one thing does 
 not necessarily follow from the other. 
 
 Well, ladies and gentlemen, you have a large and 
 a varied choice before you, without having recourse 
 to an humble writer. There is no lack, Heaven 
 knows, of earnest persons presenting complete 
 schemes of M social reform," each of which differs 
 from the other. There is the politician. Social 
 reforms are part of his stock in trade, which he is 
 delighted to sell to the highest bidder. There is the 
 Socialist — there are ever so many Socialists, and 
 you can pick and choose. There is the minister of 
 religion ; nor does it matter what religion he pro- 
 fesses, so that he does his work, and then he 
 commands respect. There is a new kind of person 
 called a " sociologist," whose pursuits (I own) so 
 bewilder me that I can give no account of them. 
 Still, there he is. There are Societies, Leagues, 
 Associations, Councils, Committees, beyond all 
 reckoning. Go to ! Is it to be supposed for a 
 moment, that all these varied "forms of social 
 activity " (so runs the slang) are of no worth ? 
 Then why . . . ? 
 
 Then why is it that things are what they are ? 
 To that question we must ever return. Because 
 these "social activities" are not new, although of 
 late they may have become more numerous. They 
 have been in full blast for ever so long. Read
 
 x PREFACE. 
 
 your Dickens. Politicians will tell you of the vast 
 social improvements achieved since Dickens wrote — 
 they will discourse of them with an air, as though 
 themselves had accomplished them. Very well. 
 Now take the tram to (say) Bermondsey, or any- 
 where east of Aldgate Pump, and ask to see the 
 improvements . . . 
 
 Well, but why are these things so ? 
 
 Dear reader (if you have had the patience to bear 
 with me thus far), that question haunts me quite as 
 constantly as it troubles you. There is no answer, 
 because there are a thousand answers. The only 
 theory that covers all the facts is the theory of what 
 used to be called Original Sin. Conversely, the only 
 cure is contained in that prescription of Virtue 
 which is the common element of all noble religions. 
 Now it is the essence of religion that it concerns the 
 individual. Each human being differs from the other. 
 Upon that point we can all agree. But see what 
 follows from that elementary truth. To begin with, 
 it falsifies all generalisations — yes, all. 
 
 Now let us go back to our politicians, our Socialists, 
 our ministers of religion (but here we must allow for 
 exceptions), our sociologists, our Societies, Leagues, 
 Associations, Councils, Committees, tea-meetings, 
 hymns, resolutions, lectures, speeches, secretaries, 
 reports, movements, and the whole immense and 
 desperate apparatus devised by amiable people with 
 the best intentions. Do they deal in generalisa- 
 tions, or do they not ? Do they prescribe the 
 universal panacea, or do they not ? If they do, they
 
 PREFACE. xi 
 
 are useless — except incidentally and by accident. If 
 they do not — but where will you find those who do 
 not ? 
 
 Take a square mile of Black London, and ask how 
 it is to be civilised ; how it is to be peopled with 
 healthy, industrious and contented families, how it is 
 to be made clean and fair ? Instantly arises a chorus 
 of answers : Pull down, rebuild, drain, educate, 
 clothe, emigrate, convert, give Free Trade, give 
 Tariff Reform. . . . Yes, quite so. But you are 
 dealing with people, not with lay figures. A district, 
 like a State, is made up of individuals. Each of 
 those individuals has a character. Can you alter 
 that character ? Well, try — try for a year. There 
 are things which, as the Psalmist says, must be let 
 alone for ever. In that simple fact you will find a 
 part of the answer to the eternal question, Why are 
 these things so ? Ignore the individual, merge him 
 in the mass, and you may do what you will to that 
 cancerous mile of Black London, and you will find 
 another growing alongside it, as bad as the first. 
 
 Now (for the sake of argument) select one individual 
 in that area, and find out how he (or she) came to be 
 what he (or she) is. Do not take anyone else's evi- 
 dence. Find out for yourself. Eliminate, in so far as 
 it is possible, the personal qualities of character which 
 have clearly resulted in such and such conditions 
 and consequences, What remains ? Much wrong, 
 perhaps, inflicted by others. Wrong inflicted by 
 employers, by speculative builders, by landlords, by 
 the incidence of laws made by professional politicians,
 
 xii PREFACE. 
 
 by the dispensers of chanty, by the neighbours. 
 Conversely, perhaps, many benefits received. But 
 in Black London, the wrong preponderates. 
 
 Contemplate the complexity of that problem. It 
 is woven of a hundred conflicting interests, preju- 
 dices, villanies. Its threads ramify throughout the 
 community. Now multiply the problem by several 
 millions, and the product will be what is called the 
 11 social problem " of to-day. 
 
 Add to it the burden of preceding generations — 
 without going further back than the time before 
 the (very inadequate) Factory laws were passed (in 
 the teeth of the Liberal party), when England was 
 stained blacker with greed and cruelty than the Congo 
 State — and you will begin to perceive the length of 
 the bill which destiny is presenting to-day. That bill 
 must be paid. And it carries compound interest. 
 
 When people ask in all generosity and sincerity, 
 11 What is to be done ? " they are really asking how 
 to pay the bill — or (in the case of politicians) how to 
 avoid paying it. 
 
 The settlement may beggar you. On that point 
 one has no definite opinion. Other nations have 
 been ruined by the same implacable Creditor ; others, 
 again, have found the price and gone on. 
 
 There is only one thing to be done, and its name 
 is Duty. A dull conclusion, is it not ? But consider. 
 If each individual in each class of society had done 
 his duty, there would be no " social problem " to-day. 
 Duty cannot be done in battalions. It must be done
 
 PREFACE. xiii 
 
 by the one. Therefore (it seems) the less shouting 
 there is, the better ; the fewer societies there are, 
 the better ; the less theory-making there is, the 
 better. 
 
 It would be hard to discover a better definition 
 of duty than the marching orders contained in the 
 Church Catechism. And when we come to this 
 point, the reason why the writer has hitherto re- 
 frained from suggesting "what ought to be done," 
 is surely apparent. 
 
 L/. C C 
 
 Red Hill, 
 
 January, 1 910.
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 I. — The Abbey . 
 II.— Paul's. 
 III. — The Royal Hospital at G 
 IV. — Port of London 
 V.— Waste 
 VI. — The Commons 
 VII.— "The Park" . 
 VIII. — Bank Holiday . 
 IX. — Fleet Street 
 X. — Free Speech 
 XI. — Woman's Suffrage 
 XII. — Orators 
 XIII. — The Creche 
 XIV. — Famine 
 
 XV. — The Heart of Spring 
 XVI. — Playmates . 
 XVII.— T. S. "Mercury" 
 XVIII.— Medical . 
 XIX. — Surgical 
 XX. — Culture 
 XXI. — Sport 
 XXII. — The Yacht Race 
 XXIII.— Margate . 
 XXIV. — The General 
 XXV. — Imperialism 
 XXVI.— Mr. Betterman 
 XXVII. -The Wreckers . 
 XXVIII.— Pictures . 
 XXIX.— The Pageant . 
 
 xxx. — Tbw Signs 
 
 reenwich 
 
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 169
 
 LONDON PRIDE 
 
 AND 
 
 LONDON SHAME 
 
 I.— THE ABBEY. 
 
 " ' Death in the right cause, Death in the wrong cause, trumpets of 
 victory, groans of defeat ' ; 
 Yes ; but it's better to go for the Abbey than chuck your old bones 
 out in the street." 
 
 The grey cliff of carven stone, rising in the very heart 
 of the Imperial City, looks austerely down upon the con- 
 verging, sunlit roads and the motley rush of traffic, the little 
 people coming and going, and the tired men asleep on the 
 benches among the sooty statues. L^pon this blue Sunday 
 morning, the Corps of Commissionaires is dispersing 
 through Westminster Palace Yard, after having been in- 
 spected in Westminster Hall . Fine, bronzed, soldierly men 
 are these, the medals shining upon their dark uniforms, 
 from the stout old warriors with the shrewd eye and that 
 imperturbable, humorous expression of the veteran, to the 
 lean hard fellows of forty or so, who are fit for anything, 
 anywhere. Why these men are denied the Army, when its 
 ranks are being filled with weedy boys, collected, not with- 
 out persuasion, from the highways and hedges, is one of the 
 mysteries of the British Constitution. 
 
 High overhead, half shrouded in shadow, half lapped 
 in sunlight, towers the Abbey, and the bells of little 
 L.P.L.S. B
 
 2 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 St. Margaret's are chiming for service, and the quality 
 are stepping daintily across the watered road, while the 
 Commissionaires break off in twos and threes, and go their 
 way, shoulder to shoulder, marching in time . The Abbey 
 service has already begun, and the people are still pressing 
 through the doors in the north transept. 
 
 Within, crowded in the brown gloom, sombrely carpet- 
 ing this vast ribbed shell of the ages' handiwork, is such a 
 congregation as you will find nowhere else in the wide 
 world. " And how hear we every man in our own tongue, 
 wherein we were born? Parthians, and Medes, and 
 Elamites, and the dwellers in Mesopotamia, and in Judaea, 
 and Cappadocia, in Pontus, and Asia, Phrygia, and Pam- 
 phylia, in Egypt, and in the parts of Lybia about Cyrene, 
 and strangers of Rome, Jews and proselytes, Cretes and 
 Arabians, we do hear them speak in our tongues the won- 
 derful works of God." So said the dwellers in the Holy 
 City, what time the Christian hegemony was founded. And 
 so, with a change in that sounding roll of place-names, 
 may we say, too. "And they were all amazed," the 
 chronicle adds. We are not amazed. We take it as a 
 matter of course, that in the heart's core the Empire should 
 be gathered together, English and Canadian and Austra- 
 lian, Indian from East and West, African and Newfound- 
 lander, dwellers in Asia and Egypt, and Cathay, and the 
 isles of the Pacific, strangers from America, and near every 
 nation in Europe. 
 
 Yet here they are, upon any Sunday you like to choose, 
 filling the benches in transepts and choir and beneath the 
 high -piled, dusky lantern, standing crowded along wall and 
 sculptured monument, a mosaic of humanity. Scan the 
 faces, and you shall presently perceive that they make a 
 pattern, each presenting an aspect or a corner of character 
 and race, just as the great rose window gleaming above 
 him in the shadow, is set with broken, jewelled pieces, 
 and yet makes a complete whole of a seizing and beautiful 
 significance. . . . Here are British youth, high -collared 
 and trim, and English ladies, fresh and cool in summer
 
 THE ABBEY. 3 
 
 white, and dim old grey-beards, and burly, keen-eyed men 
 from England overseas, and veiled Indian ladies, and 
 narrow -shouldered, vacuous clerks, school teachers with 
 that look of quiet adequacy which distinguishes them, 
 demure girls with their hair in a ribbon, dear old ladies in 
 black with silver spectacles, uniformed nurses from the 
 hospital over the way, a ruddy country parson and his wife, 
 sleek -haired schoolboys, a pair of dark-skinned brothers 
 in shiny black attire, a Frenchman with his hair like a 
 brush, and an American youth in very loose garments and 
 carrying a camera instead of a prayer-book. Above them, 
 set high and white against the tumbled background of 
 column and arch and foliated panel and confused sculp- 
 ture, stand the stone figures of statesmen and sailors and 
 soldiers. There they stand for ever, their heads turned 
 sideways, as though listening to the monotone of the priest 
 in the chancel, whose voice dies away and is lost in those 
 enormous aisles. 
 
 " Mortality, behold and fear 
 What a change of flesh is here I 
 Think how many royal bones 
 Sleep within these heaps of stones ; 
 Here they lie, had realms and lands. 
 Who now want strength to stir their hands, 
 Where from their pulpits seal'd with dust 
 They preach, ' In greatness is no trust.' " 
 
 What Francis Beaumont wrote, needs not to be re- 
 written. The diverse congregation drifts in and out this 
 tremendous sepulchre like the tide, ever changing, and ever 
 the same, and the end of the eminent is that their memorials 
 stand there over against you, petrified and listening for 
 ever, until. . . . 
 
 The full chant of the Credo fills the brown walls from 
 side to side, now rising like a march of triumph, now fall- 
 ing like a dirge, and, poising on a single note, swells again 
 into the flood of harmony. Mortality, behold and fear not ; 
 for, every English hand had a part in this great fabric, the 
 symbol of that building which is not made with hands, and 
 which shall endure, though kingdoms fall away and 
 
 Empires crumble. The Abbey is the lode -stone of the race, 
 
 B 2
 
 4 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 the central knot of the lines of all the little lives that circle 
 about the immemorial walls, circling wider and yet wider, 
 away beyond the far horizons, to " regions Csesar never 
 knew," although, very likely, they think not of it. 
 
 And when the silver-haired preacher, robed in white and 
 glimmering scarlet, stands uplifted in the tawny twilight 
 above the congregation, he tells them that the message of 
 the Christian faith shines pure and apart from the strife 
 of the schools and the hurly-burly of politics ; and reminds 
 them of the Great Queen, the woman who reigned for sixty 
 years over the English, and tells them bluntly that, so long 
 as women are held unworthy of the full rights of citizen- 
 ship, we remain untrue to the lesson of that majestic life. 
 . . . To his clear tones succeeds the great voice of the 
 solemn music, and the service is ended. 
 
 At the door stood a handsome old man in blue jersey 
 and cork jacket, holding a gold plate of great size, into 
 which one dropped a coin for the Royal National Lifeboat 
 Institution. To pass out into the sunlight is to step across 
 the threshold of a thousand sleeping years into the unend- 
 ing trivial bustle of to-day. The whirlpool circles ever 
 about the still centre, casting up flotsam and jetsam of 
 humanity. But the influence of the Abbey clothes them, 
 perhaps, with a peculiar significance. Somewhere here, 
 if you think it worth while to let fancy stray so far, sat 
 King Alfred's men-at-arms, drowsing in the sunshine of 
 a Sunday. And here, upon the garden seat, rests an old 
 soldier. His face is wan and corded ; he is dressed in 
 rough working clothes, his jacket buttoned over a brown 
 jersey. When he was fifteen, he began to work in Covent 
 Garden Market, what time the policemen wore tall hats 
 and bob - tailed coats, and London was as Dickens drew 
 it. Then he enlisted and went to Hong-Kong in the old 
 Himalaya, and to Ceylon and Singapore and the Cape. 
 Then he came back to the market, a time-expired man, to 
 see his old friends, and within a fortnight he was a porter 
 again. He is a licensed porter now, and he works from 
 three in the morning until six in the evening on market
 
 THE ABBEY. 5 
 
 days, and the grey hair is worn off the top of his head, 
 making a bald patch like a tonsure, by reason of carrying 
 fruit -boxes. 
 
 Here were a couple of bluejackets in Sunday rig, stout 
 and leisurely ; here two men of the Irish Guards — " picked 
 men," said my porter, his eyes following the gold buttons ; 
 then a workman with his small daughter in a clean pina- 
 fore ; then a frock-coated gentleman with a high nose ; 
 then a street tramp, all one dry smear from his ruined hat 
 to his broken boots, but placid, pink -faced, and soft- 
 fingered. Then a young man sat down on the bench 
 opposite, and began to write on a pad. Perhaps he was 
 writing poetry about the Abbey. ... All bits of mosaic, 
 like the jewelled glass in the great rose window, yonder. 
 
 The American youth with the camera, and another like 
 unto him, sat down beside us. 
 
 " Say," said the second, " this is a large city. Seems 
 expensive. How long does it take to get around? ' 
 
 " You can get a sixpenny guide to the Abbey," said he 
 of the camera. " And the clergy show you round for 
 nothing. And it don't take long to skim through the 
 British Museum " 
 
 I went away. I went into the cloisters. There was none 
 of the all -conquering race in the cloisters. There was only 
 a solitary policeman, who was cogitating profoundly upon 
 the prospect of getting a reward for stopping a runaway 
 pair-horse van. " I made a mistake," he said. " I didn't 
 put into my report ' at great personal risk.' The sergeant, 
 he says, ' You've forgot it, my man.' But does he put it? 
 Not he. He puts in, ' not attended by personal risk.' I 
 don't mind. When the point comes up, I shall say, ' Gen- 
 tlemen, I did not look for any private reward. I was 
 actuated by motives of the public safety.' ' He turned 
 from the sunlit square of grass and the glittering bulk of 
 the Abbey rising into the blue, glanced up and down the 
 mouldering, shadowy cloister, and added, inconsequently, 
 " The constable on night duty here gets extra pay." 
 
 When Mr. Grewj v\ iting Cloisterham ('which, as
 
 6 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 everyone knows, is Rochester) came to the open doors of 
 the Cathedral, " ' Dear me,' sai<jLMr. Grewgious, peeping 
 in, ' it's like looking down the throat of Old Time.' " When 
 you enter the Abbey after service, and the people have 
 departed, that is what it is like. Empty with a great and 
 yawning emptiness, save for a black -robed verger or two, 
 and an old almsman creeping along the wall, the Abbey, 
 column and pier and arch, set with memorials of the dead, 
 hung here and there with dim and tattered flags, mysterious 
 in profound shadow or flushed, wine-hued, where the sun- 
 light strikes in a*misty beam through stained glass, is the 
 very entrance to immortality and oblivion. The organ 
 breaks forth, and the music rises like a sea, and rolls even 
 to the groined roof ; and in its wordless message lies hid 
 the meaning of a thousand years' past of the dark Fane 
 beside the River, and (as we believe) a thousand years 
 to come.
 
 PAUL'S 
 
 II.— PAUL'S. 
 
 " Here, in streaming London's central roar, 
 Let the sound of those he wrought for, 
 And the feet of those he fought for, 
 Echo round his bones for evermore." 
 
 AT a quarter before six, the nave and transepts of St. 
 Paul's Cathedral are filled with men who use the sea ; men 
 of the Royal Navy, of the mercantile marine, and boys 
 who are under training for England's first and last inherit- 
 ance, the sea. Back, far back, into the vast shadows of 
 that place of silence, whose gloom was but faintly starred 
 with lamps, stretched the field of grave faces. Old men 
 of eighty winters, hair and beard like the snow upon a root 
 of oak, youngsters with the low forehead and sturdy jaw 
 of the breed, grey men of middle age, trim naval officers, 
 white-gloved, in full uniform, officers of the Naval Volun- 
 teers, with the twisted stripe on their sleeves, retired 
 Admirals and Captains — all were massed in perfect silence, 
 waiting for the noble service which Mother Church admin- 
 isters to British seamen once a year in St. Paul's. And 
 beneath their feet Nelson, dead a hundred years and more, 
 slept under his carven tomb, in the unfathomable silence 
 of the crypt. 
 
 Not a sound of the unending rush of the London traffic 
 broke the stillness. Then, high overhead, the solemn bells 
 chimed six. Then came the blue-uniformed cadets of the 
 Worcester, marching two by two, then the boys of the 
 school of the Royal Hospital at Greenwich, most notable 
 of all sea foundations, wearing their sailor collars outside 
 their surplices ; then the choir. Followed the clergy, 
 headed by the Bishop of Victoria and the Dean of the Falk-
 
 8 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 land Isles, those far outposts of Empire, and last, preceded 
 by the verger bearing the golden crozier, came the Bishop 
 of London, the prelate who is the brother of all wayfaring 
 men and seafarers . 
 
 The organ peals, and Wren's magnificent architecture, 
 dimly gleaming here and there with rich sculpture and gold 
 of mosaic, springs to new meaning in those waves 
 of harmony. 
 
 " All people that on earth do dwell ." . . . The whole four 
 thousand men are singing, and the little Greenwich choir 
 boys open their mouths round as an O, like the cherubs 
 in old pictures. Then arises the single musical voice that 
 penetrates to every corner of the enormous building, 
 making submission above the bowed heads to the Creator 
 of earth and heaven and the sea . Then all sing the Psalm 
 that tells how though the waters rage and swell, and though 
 the mountains shake at the tempest of the same, yet the 
 rivers of the flood thereof shall make glad the city of God. 
 Far beyond the vision of the old Hebrew poet, reaches the 
 meaning of his words to the England, whose " wealth, pros- 
 perity and peace " came by the sea. And they who use the 
 sea are all poor men, and four thousand of them are 
 gathered here to-day, beneath the dark and lofty dome, 
 whose gold cross glitters high in air above the metropolis 
 of the world. And who made England? These men, and 
 such as these. 
 
 The Chaplain of the Fleet ('no finer sounding title graces 
 the Church of England) read the First Lesson, which told 
 how the Prophet Jonah, having come to port after his en- 
 gagement in the first submarine, made his oblation to the 
 Most High. And after the Psalm, the Second Lesson, read 
 by the Bishop of Auckland, recited how the Saviour of 
 the world walked upon the sea — " and when they were; come 
 out of the ship, straightway they knew Him." 
 
 The Bishop of London spoke to the men who had come 
 out of the ships to hear him — " not as a Bishop," he said, 
 "•but as a brother." Simple and straightforward, he told 
 the sailors how they needed " an anchor for the soul."
 
 PAUL'S. 9 
 
 " One of the things which makes us all so proud of you," 
 said the Bishop, " is the pluck with which you face danger." 
 He spoke truth. Neglect the men of the sea as we may, 
 not one of us who dwells at ease ashore but is proud of 
 them. And the Bishop showed the sailors how they might 
 find and let drop and hold fast to that anchor of the soul, 
 of which the great apostle (himself a seafarer, as the picture 
 in the chapel of Greenwich Hospital shows) spoke in his 
 letter to the Hebrews. " My brothers," said the Bishop, 
 ' if we find no love we are lost indeed." 'And his words 
 ma}- well be considered by the folk ashore who live by 
 virtue of the men of the sea — the silent, hardy men of the 
 sea, whose lot none other can ever fully enter into or com- 
 prehend. 
 
 But once a year, on Trafalgar Day, the Church receives 
 the sailors in the great Cathedral, and gives them admoni- 
 tion and her blessing, an admirable custom which Captain 
 R. R. Hubbard did so much to establish. May it endure 
 for ever, so that once in the year shall the descendants of 
 Nelson's men and their kindred gather together above his 
 resting-place under the dome of Paul's. 
 
 W. E. HENLEY. 
 
 " Now I dare say, said Sir Ector, thou Sir Lancelot, there thou 
 liest, that thou were never matched of earthly knight's hand. And 
 thou were the courteoust knight that ever bare shield. And thou 
 were the truest friend to thy lover that ever bestrad horse. And 
 thou were the truest lover of a sinful man that ever struck with 
 sword. And thou were the goodliest person that ever came among 
 press of knights. And thou was the meekest man and the gentlest 
 that ever ate in hall among ladies. And thou were the sternest 
 knight to thy mortal foe that ever put spear in the rest." 
 
 A stone chamber, lit from overhead ; the Archdeacon 
 of St. Paul's Cathedral, in his robes and scarlet hood ; a 
 half circle of grave faces, thickening dimly into the vast 
 shadows of the Crypt ; and set breast-high in the centre 
 of the wall, framed in white marble, a bronze head, noble 
 and melancholy and austere. This is the picture which
 
 io LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 rises in the mind when one surveys the set of octavo 
 volumes lettered " The Works of W. E. Henley " — the de- 
 finitive edition. On July n, 1907, the fourth anniver- 
 sary of the poet's death, the memorial of a great son of 
 England was received into St. Paul's Cathedral. Auguste 
 Rodin, the renowned French sculptor, wrought his head 
 in bronze twenty odd years ago, when Henley was thirty - 
 seven. When he died, M. Rodin designed the marble set- 
 ting, in which the bronze stands enshrined in St. Paul's 
 Cathedral, and shall stand so long as the building made 
 with hands endures. 
 
 " Et cela nous encourage," wrote M. Rodin, " d'aimer 
 un homme qui a si bien fait son devoir dans la vie en* 
 s'appuyant sur la beaute." 
 
 Here, in England, Henley's work is known. .Even his 
 enemies — for he made enemies, being born a fighting man 
 — respect it. To 1 his kinsfolk overseas it is but little known ; 
 but it will be known. What they will never know is how 
 he backed them in times of trouble, and backed their 
 friends, and fought for the Imperial ideal near single- 
 handed in his weekly journal, when as yet England was 
 asleep. Benjamin Disraeli Lord Beaconsfield, Henley, 
 Kipling — these three names are lit by that inspiration, 
 which is spreading like a fire. But Beaconsfield was dead 
 — his great rival outlasted him, and achieved Majuba and 
 the death of Gordon — when a young man came to London 
 town from India. His name was Rudyard Kipling, and 
 he dwelt alone for a season and wrote verses, at a time 
 when the Irish enemies of England were doing after their 
 kind. Who was it printed " Cleared " — 
 
 " Cleared — you that ' lost ' the League accounts — go guard our 
 honour still, 
 Go, help to make our country's laws that broke God's law at will — 
 One hand stuck out behind the back, to signal ' strike again ' ; 
 The other on your dress -shirt front to show your heart is clane." 
 
 — when every other editor in London was afraid ? Who but 
 Henley of the National Observer ? Who printed the greater 
 number of the first " Barrack -Room Ballads " and " Tom- 
 linson " and the " English Flag " ? Henley of the National
 
 PAUL'S. M 
 
 Observer. Turn up the old volumes of that journal and 
 you shall see how Henley wrought for England. Things, 
 of course, are now quite different. Kipling's verses have 
 rung throughout the Empire ; all of us are Imperialists 
 now ; but I am referring to a generation since. 
 
 " So he loved England," said Mr. Wyndham, speaking; 
 at the memorial service. " He loved the valour of England 
 at war, when ' the loneliest death is fair with a memory 
 of her flowers.' And he loved the plenty of England in 
 peace." 
 
 War ! When the war befell in South Africa the National 
 Observer was dead, like many another gallant and honest 
 and imprudent venture ; and Henley, vexed by ill -health, 
 sat in his study and ate his heart, and wrote " Verses and 
 Songs in Time of War." 
 
 " Southern Cross and Polar Star — 
 Here are the Britains bred afar ; 
 Serry, O serry them, fierce and keen, 
 Under the flag of the Empress -Queen ; 
 Shoulder to shoulder down the track, 
 Where to the unretreating Jack, 
 The victor bugles of England play 
 Over the hills and far away ! " 
 
 Who, then, was this man who lived and died poor, and 
 made no figure in the great world, yet wielded an extra- 
 ordinary power, and did as much in the only way destiny 
 left open to him as any Englishman of his time to accom- 
 plish the Imperial ideal ; and who is now numbered among 
 the mighty dead, enshrined in St. Paul's? 
 
 William Ernest Henley was born in Gloucester city in 
 1849, and he went to the Crypt School, and was taught 
 by T. E. Brown, poet and scholar, concerning whom you 
 shall find all that need be said in the fourth volume of 
 Henley's " Works." What manner of child he was is 
 shadowed in the " Arabian Nights' Entertainments " 
 (Vol. I. Works). How, 
 
 ' In the sleepy Minster City, folded kind 
 In am ient Severn's arm, 
 Amongst her water-meadows and ber docks 
 Romance,
 
 12 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 The Angel -Playmate, raining down 
 His golden influences 
 
 On all I saw, and all I dreamed and did, 
 Walked with me arm in arm 
 
 Of the broad-shouldered, tall youth who dragged a dis- 
 eased foot all the way to Edinburgh because surgeons 
 failed, and Lister's fame was noised abroad, we know 
 nothing till we come to the " Hospital Verses." He lost 
 his foot, and was a maimed man all his days, often tor- 
 tured by illness, always indomitably courageous. Pen- 
 niless, near friendless, he came to town ; got work — 
 achieved such brilliant stuff as you shall read in the Views 
 and Reviews — and wrote verses. For a long time he 
 edited The Magazine of Art; then he took command of 
 the Scots Observer, a weekly journal which, when its head- 
 quarters were moved to London, became the National Ob- 
 server. Henley was summoned to Edinburgh to take 
 charge at a moment's notice ; went to a friend's house, 
 and sat down then and there to edit the paper. Then and 
 there appeared a new force in journalism ; militant, vital, 
 inspiring, hard-hitting, generous, brilliantly informed, and 
 of an amazing range of knowledge. 
 
 Here was a man of power and enthusiasm and genius, 
 utterly fearless and of " a magnificent geniality " of heart, 
 fit to hew out a kingdom — and he was editing a paper, 
 plunged " neck -deep into that quag of journey work." The 
 writer remembers him in those days ; a person of great 
 build and stature, bearded like the pard, with a grip like a 
 blacksmith's, the gaze of a lion, and the port of a born 
 commander. He entered the room, supporting himself with 
 one hand upon the wall, and leaning heavily on his ivory- 
 handled stick. We talked of the new countries oversea — 
 " the Britains bred afar " — and his shrewd, intent eyes 
 looked very far away. " I should have been there," he 
 said. "But . . ." 
 
 All that pent and splendid fire and energy went into the 
 National Observer, into his verses, his essays, and — most 
 memorably — into his talk and his influence over the men 
 who came to him. And there were few aspirants in litera-
 
 PAUL'S. 13 
 
 ture who did not write for him, none of worth who did not 
 learn from him. But not only these : statesmen, soldiers, 
 sailors, men of their hands in every walk of life, came to 
 Henley. 
 
 A single reminiscence will serve to adumbrate the man's 
 own point of view. He had been placed next to Lord 
 Roberts at dinner, and he said afterwards to the writer : 
 " I felt all the time, what was I, after all ? A miserable 
 penster, sitting next the man who led the march to 
 Kandahar and took Cabul ! . . . Just a miserable blotter 
 of paper ! " 
 
 Among those who gathered together in the crypt of St. 
 Paul's on that grey July day to witness the unveiling of 
 the memorial to one of the last of the great Victorians, 
 were statesmen, soldiers, men of letters, journalists, nove- 
 lists, men of science, painters, musicians. The Earl of 
 Plymouth presented the memorial to the Dean and Chapter, 
 as a " tribute of a friendship that no time can kill." Mr. 
 George Wyndham pronounced an eloquent eulogy ; the 
 Archdeacon, in the name of the Dean and Chapter, 
 accepted the memorial . The bronze simulacrum of a great 
 son of England, who looked forward to a nobler Empire 
 than he would live to see, stares for ever into the vast 
 shadows of that place of silence. 
 
 But in his books there lives and thrills for ever the spirit 
 of England ; the spirit of England everywhere, in this 
 green island or overseas, the which, so long as it wakes 
 and wills, there is nothing can withstand.
 
 14 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 HI._THE ROYAL HOSPITAL AT 
 
 GREENWICH. 
 
 " Her other domes — her wealth, her pride, 
 Her science may declare ; 
 But Greenwich hath the noblest claim — 
 Her gratitude is there." 
 
 L.E. L. 
 
 SOME ten weeks after the sea fight which England com- 
 memorates yearly, the body of the Most Noble Lord 
 Horatio Nelson, Vice -Admiral of the White Squadron of the 
 Fleet, was brought home to the Royal Hospital for Sea- 
 men at Greenwich. All up and down the river that winter's 
 day the bells were tolling, minute guns were booming, and 
 colours flew half-mast high. The great iron Water-Gates 
 of the Hospital stood wide to receive the coffin. Between 
 the stately palaces of dead kings and queens, past the 
 central statue of King George the Second, up the steps to 
 the terrace, the funeral train bore the hero into the Painted 
 Hall. They laid him upon the catafalque set up on the 
 dais, there to lie in state during four days. So Nelson 
 came home from the sea, to the people of the sea, his own 
 people. 
 
 On January 8 they took him away, in a storm of wind 
 and rain. " The coffin was brought by river to the Admir- 
 alty in a long procession of State barges, attended by nine 
 Admirals, five hundred Greenwich Pensioners, and the Lord 
 Mayor and Corporation of London, and received at 
 Whitehall Stairs by Norroy King of Arms, with nine 
 heralds and pursuivants. On the 9th the funeral went in 
 procession to St. Paul's, where it may be said that England 
 herself was visibly present. . . ."
 
 THE ROYAL HOSPITAL AT GREENWICH. i 5 
 
 But Nelson lay first of all among his own men, the men 
 of the sea, who, like him, had worn ships thin beneath 
 their feet in patrol and vigil, watching and chasing ; men 
 who walked naked into carnage, going joyful as to a fes- 
 tival ; and who now, maimed and scarred, received their 
 greatest captain, dead, in the palace, the gift of a Queen. 
 
 The wide quadrangle opens upon the river, where the 
 red -sailed barges glide up and down upon the tide, silent 
 as a dream ; where the big cargo -boats pause in mid- 
 current, and are turned about with a sturdy tug at bow and 
 stern, and steam up-river to the docks, and drop down 
 again and round the point and are gone. " The present 
 situation of the Hospital was preferred," says the eight- 
 eenth - century history of that noble foundation, with its 
 charming simplicity, " on account of its being so very con- 
 spicuous and in the very sight of London, to and from 
 which port the great number of ships continually passing 
 and repassing would afford constant entertainment to those 
 who had retired from the business of a seafaring life." 
 
 Looking inland from the Water -Gate, there are Queen 
 Anne's palace on the left, King Charles the Second's palace 
 on the right ; beyond, on the left, Queen Mary's palace, 
 and the palace of her husband, King William, on the right. 
 Sir Christopher Wren, Sir John Vanbrugh and James 
 Stuart the Grecian, designed these sedate and splendid 
 structures. The columned domes of the Chapel on the 
 left, and of the Painted Hall on the right, sentinel the 
 paved square rising on a terrace of steps from the quad- 
 rangle. It is closed in at the further end by railings, and 
 past the railings runs the traffic of the highway, and beyond 
 the tramways and passengers, the railings of Greenwich 
 School mask the hull of the drill ship, whose spars tower 
 above the Queen's house. 
 
 In the centre of the paved square, overtopped by the two 
 domes, and midmost of the majestic colonnade, stands 
 I li.mtrey's bust of Nelson, all blackened with the London 
 smoke, ever gazing straight across the green lawns of the 
 quadrangle at the perpetual pageant of the river. The
 
 1 6 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 place is very quiet. A naval pensioner, bent and white, 
 stands leaning on his stick. A naval officer passes on his 
 way to lecture. A little group of visitors loiters on the 
 steps of the Painted Hall. The hoot of a siren sounds 
 from the river. 
 
 King Charles the Second began to build the palace, but 
 he slept with his fathers ere it was finished. It was Queen 
 Mary who persuaded King William to continue the work, 
 to found a great endowment, and to give the buildings and 
 the money to sick and disabled seamen. " For want of a 
 safe harbour wherein they might anchor, and an asylum 
 wherein they might repose, after the fatigues, hardships, 
 and dangers which they had encountered, few only escaped 
 from the accumulated distresses of poverty, infirmity and 
 pain. To behold the Protectors of a Nation which she 
 loved, cruelly abandoned under such circumstances, ex- 
 cited her royal compassion ; and one of the last acts of 
 her exemplary life was the proposal of an institution which 
 should provide for those unfortunate, but highly deserv- 
 ing, sufferers." Thus the Rev. John Cooke, A.M., and 
 the Rev. John Maule, A.M., Chaplains of the Hospital, 
 who, in their courtly eighteenth-century prose, wrote the 
 History of the Hospital in the year of our Lord 1789. 
 
 Thus did the pleasure - house of kings become the 
 Palace of the Sea. A veteran company of old sailors dwelt 
 in these lofty chambers, dined every day in the Painted 
 Hall, and worshipped God in the chapel, whose neo- 
 Grecian design is second to none in England. Here, in- 
 deed, was a gift worthy of a Queen. For once, during the 
 fighting centuries of English history, the men who served 
 their country were rightly honoured. The King's men 
 dwelt in the King's house. And one day, borne shoulder- 
 high through the Water-Gate, the greatest of them all came 
 to the house of heroes. 
 
 But kings' palaces did not make home for the seamen 
 because they could not have their wives and children with 
 them. So they got permission to dwell outside the pre- 
 cincts, retaining their pension, and the Palace of the Sea
 
 THE ROYAL HOSPITAL AT GREENWICH. 17 
 
 was gradually deserted. Then, some twenty or thirty years 
 ago, under Lord Goschen's administration at the Admir- 
 alty, the Royal Hospital became the University of the Sea. 
 Officers of all ranks came there to study. The Queen's 
 gift was turned to new uses. And between the time of 
 Queen Mary and the time of Queen Victoria, Nelson had 
 come to the hospital, dead but immortal. 
 
 Within a few steps of the very spot in the Painted Hall 
 where the Admiral lay in state, there stands a glass case 
 in which is displayed the uniform he wore the day of Tra- 
 falgar. Here is the blue coat set with the dim stars and 
 Orders, and studded with the thin gold anchor buttons. 
 Beside the tarnished epaulette is a little ragged hole. The 
 waistcoat and the stockings, faded grey-white, are darkly 
 stained. The foot of the stockings is no bigger than a 
 woman's ; but the wearer trod on the neck of Europe. 
 Near by are other cases containing the costly mementoes 
 of the hero who followed honour alone, and set no store 
 by wealth of gear. Among gilded swords of honour, massy, 
 caskets, medals, seals, silver plate, that which dwells in 
 the mind is the dress sword that was placed on his coffin 
 when he lay in state ; the lean, delicate sword, the symbol 
 of honour, And here, too, there springs to the eye the 
 Admiral's handwriting, the odd, angular script widely 
 spaced upon the square paper. 
 
 Below the dais, or Upper Hall, which is the shrine of 
 Nelson, the Great Hall itself, canopied by Thornhill's vast 
 magnificence of design, displays the pictured majesty of 
 a thing unparalleled in history, the sea power of England. 
 Sea fights rage soundlessly in a tumult of rolling smoke 
 and sheets of flames and tangle of wreckage mingled with 
 the massed bodies of struggling men. Commodore Nel- 
 son's slight figure, sword in hand, boards the San Nicolas, 
 amid the hurling press of assault, shoulder to shoulder. 
 Admiral Duncan receives the sword of the Dutch Admiral 
 De Winter, aboard the Venerable, alter the battle of Cam- 
 perdown. The Bellerophon heaves upon the twilight, an- 
 ( hored in Plymouth Sound, what time the townsfolk put 
 
 L.P.L.S. C
 
 1 8 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 off in boats to stare upon Napoleon, standing on the quar- 
 terdeck, a prisoner. 
 
 But here, above all, are the portraits of Nelson's band 
 of brothers : Admiral John Jervis, Earl of St. Vincent, 
 he who broke the mutiny and forged the weapon which 
 Nelson wielded ; Hood, Saumarez, Parker, Pellew, Martin, 
 Collingwood, Hardy, who was Nelson's flag-captain, and 
 afterwards Governor of Greenwich Hospital, and many 
 another hero . And here, too, are Drake and Hawkins and 
 Howard, their sea -ancestors. They are all of them right 
 Englishmen. And all of them look from out the jewelled 
 canvas with that indefinable, yet unmistakable, expression 
 which is the mark of their calling. It is the sign of the 
 sea. It is not loyalty, or courage, or alertness, or deter- 
 mination, or endurance — though it is all these. It cannot 
 be conveyed in words. There is but one word that lights 
 its signification — Duty. 
 
 Amid the wrack and blaze of great sea -battles, and the 
 august company of British seamen, stands the frail figure 
 of Nelson, noble and melancholy and austere. In him, as 
 in the heroes of fjable, centres the glory of an age, ttfe 
 splendour of a nameless and a spiritual tradition. Dead, 
 he entered by the Water-Gate, a hundred years ago, and 
 his own men brought him from the Hospital to St. Paul's. 
 
 But in the long, low room which is the Hospital Museum, 
 you shall see to-day the model of the fight of Trafalgar, 
 toy ships sailing on a painted sea ; and to-day the walls 
 are hung with flags and wreathed as for victory ; and an 
 old, grey -bearded sailor tells the story of the battle, ship 
 by ship, as though he had been there. Were the dead 
 Admiral (his right sleeve pinned to his breast) to pass by 
 in the shadow, he would be at home. And his lordship 
 would be at home amid the dusky colonnades and the trim 
 lawns, whence he might view the ships going by upon the 
 tide — and not a ship, nor an ounce of cargo, nor a penny 
 piece of the merchant's counting-house which does not owe 
 its security to Nelson's conquest of the sea. On the right 
 hand, high up in Queen Anne's palace, gloom the three
 
 THE ROYAL HOSPITAL AT GREENWICH. 19 
 
 windows from which Admiral Byng looked his last;, before 
 going down to Portsmouth to execution. He was shot to 
 save the place and power of a treacherous Government, 
 the year before Nelson was born. Vice-Admiral Nelson, 
 too, suffered betrayal by the Government, after his death. 
 Musing beneath these windows he would understand. And 
 the lieutenants, chasing X down the wide corridors, and 
 dining at the long tables, in whose centre stands the like- 
 ness of the Nelson Column, wrought in solid silver — the 
 Vice - Admiral would know them all at a glance of his 
 brooding eyes. 
 
 For this is the University of the Sea, founded on the 
 day when they brought Nelson through the Water -Gate, 
 and into the Painted Hall, dead, but immortal. 
 
 NELSON'S NURSERY. 
 
 In the middle of the stone-paved square, closed in to 
 left and right by massive colonnades, the band of Green- 
 wich School is making martial music. The little drum- 
 major stands in front, wielding a staff as tall as himself, 
 and himself is not very tall, but exceedingly majestic. 
 Near by, on the steps of the terrace, are the Admiral of the 
 Royal Naval College, two or three other naval officers,, 
 and a captain of marines. Aside is a bevy of ladies in 
 bright -hued dresses. The Chaplain of the Fleet walks 
 across from his quarters in King Charles' Palace. On the 
 left, beneath the colonnade, flows a tide of blue-uniformed 
 boys, which turns into the chapel. In the background the 
 marble head of Nelson, wrought by Chantrey, gazes serene 
 and august, uplifted on its pedestal. And beyond the high 
 railings enclosing the upper end of the square rise the masts 
 and yards of the school drillship Fame, making a delicate 
 pattern of tracery in front of the Queen's House. Beyond 
 again the sun lights upon the green shoulder of the hill, 
 crowned with the domes of the Observatory. It is the 
 Sunday morning preceding the anniversary of Trafalgar. 
 Within the chapel, near a thousand young bluejackets 
 
 C 2
 
 6 
 
 20 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 are ranged orderly in the solid mahogany benches, fillin 
 the whole floor. Above, in the centre of the side gallery, 
 sits the Captain commanding the school ; opposite to 
 him is the Admiral's seat. The choir files into the 
 chancel, wearing sailor collars over their surplices. The 
 hazy autumn sunlight, striking through the south windows, 
 lights West's great picture framed upon the wall above 
 the altar. The figure of the great Apostle stands 
 radiantly forth, shaking the viper from his hand, amid 
 the moveless silent sweep and tumult of shipwrecked 
 men crowding thick in the vast mysterious shadow. 
 Upon the wall on either side a white angel hovers, 
 carved in immaculate marble. The altar is a slab 
 of white marble supported by bronze - coloured cary- 
 atides, delicately wrought ; the pavement a geometrical 
 design of black marble and white ; the altar rails are of 
 coloured marble from Devonshire, the country of seafaring 
 men ; the columns supporting the organ loft are monoliths 
 of grey marble. Column and frieze and entablature, cor- 
 nice and panel and architrave, all are most finely moulded 
 to the refinement of the Greek, by James Stuart, he who 
 brought the art of Athens to England, towards the end of 
 the eighteenth century. You shall not find the match in 
 England of the chapel of the Royal Hospital at Greenwich. 
 And now it is dedicated to the boys of the Royal Navy, 
 as it was to their fathers and grandfathers, before the 
 Greenwich Pensioners went to live outside the Hospital. 
 That was twenty or thirty years ago, when the Hospital, 
 the gift of Mary, King William's Queen, to the Navy, be- 
 came the Royal Naval College, the University of the Sea. 
 
 The sunlight burnishes here and there the close-cropped 
 heads of the youngsters, sons of Navy men all, and as 
 many as may be due to enter the Service. Some pictured 
 memory of this majestic and beautiful church they all carry 
 with them to their lives' end. What time the quarterdeck 
 is screened on fine Sunday mornings, and the Chaplain's 
 voice sounds lonely in the silence of the open sea, or, in 
 rainy weather, crowded on the shelter deck, the old Green-
 
 THE ROYAL HOSPITAL AT GREENWICH. 21 
 
 wich boy may behold again the solid glossy marble pave- 
 ment and the great dark and rose-coloured picture above 
 the altar, sentinelled by angels, of St. Paul his shipwreck. 
 A hard life, but a man's life, lies before them ; exile, and 
 everlasting routine, and foul weather. They shall know the 
 humours of the sea, and learn the mind of the officers, 
 round the world and back again, just as they have seen 
 the voyage of Anson figured on the stone globes of the 
 gateway. . . . 
 
 The hymn . The whole school rises thunderously at the 
 same moment, and bursts into melody, most like the blasts 
 of trumpets. Then the Chaplain, preceded by the verger 
 bearing the silver mace, mounts the pulpit by the winding 
 stair, and shuts himself in with the double-hinged door, 
 and stands aloft. He speaks simply and briefly of the great 
 victory which is to be celebrated in a few days, and the! 
 example of Nelson. Not doctrine, but duty, is his theme. 
 The service ended, the band plays the congregation out 
 of the College precincts and across the road to the school. 
 The boys form up in companies in the great quadrangle, 
 and stand to attention. The band is posted beside the 
 ship. Near by stands the Captain. A moment's silence 
 in the hot sunshine, and the band strikes up the National 
 Anthem, all saluting. Then they dismiss. In two minutes 
 there is not a boy visible. 
 
 The officers inhabit the Queen's House, which was built 
 for Queen Henrietta Maria for her pleasure. A broad, 
 flagged corridor leads from the square hall right through 
 the house, into sunshine and the green slopes of the park- 
 Left and right, closing in the quadrangle, are the school 
 buildings, connected by colonnades to the Queen's House. 
 In the vast gymnasium the bugle is calling for dinner. 
 Boys come pounding past at a run. In the long mess- 
 room, with the portraits of the King and Queen, one on 
 cither sid<- the door, the cooks to the mess, four boys in 
 white aprons to each mess, stand beside the tables. The 
 boys pour down the centre gangway at the double, and
 
 22 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 the solid building trembles. A moment and they are stand- 
 ing silent in their places. A warrant officer mounts a 
 table and gives the word, and a thousand boys sing grace 
 before meat, most like to the blast of trumpets. The 
 bugle sounds, then they fall to. What they want, like 
 other Service men, is " bulk in their inside." They get it, 
 and get it quicker than you would suppose possible. 
 
 Here they all are, sturdy youngsters, dark and fair, tall 
 and short, all cropped as to the head, and all stamped 
 already with the seal of discipline. Look more nearly at 
 them (they will look you fairly in the eyes), and you shall 
 see the very same dogged cast of feature that is observ- 
 able in the seamen crowding the old heroic pictures of 
 sea fights. Why not? These boys are the sons of the 
 sons of men who fought at Trafalgar. They are of the 
 brood that guards the rickety, white-faced, slouching mil- 
 lions of the slums from harm, and that leaves the rich man 
 to fill his belly in peace. 
 
 They can look after themselves, too, can the Greenwich 
 boys. There are no servants at the school. The boys 
 clean the whole place till it shines and sparkles, and wash 
 their own clothes, and make and mend them, and serve 
 their own food and wash up afterwards — and all this work 
 is done incidentally, the while they are getting a sound 
 education. They do more work before eight in the morning 
 than the Elementary School aristocrat does in a day. 
 Fourteen hours is their day, and when they enter the 
 Service it will be twenty-four. 
 
 Why are there not ten or twenty schools like Greenwich 
 School, the trust of the great Hospital foundation, dis- 
 tributed over England, Scotland and Ireland, for the Navy, 
 the Army, and the Mercantile Marine? 
 
 That morning, the drill -ship of Greenwich School was 
 flying Nelson's signal, and the boys were all drawn up to 
 attention beneath the flags, while the Captain, standing on 
 the terrace of the Queen's House, said something to them 
 concerning the great Admiral who came home from
 
 THE ROYAL HOSPITAL AT GREENWICH. 23 
 
 Trafalgar to the Royal Hospital, and was borne through 
 the Water -Gate there below, a hundred years since. 
 
 The Vice -Admiral of the White came to his own men, 
 and the boys of Greenwich School are their sons, with 
 the same job to do again, one of these days.
 
 24 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME, 
 
 IV.— PORT OF LONDON. 
 
 " The ancient River singing as he goes 
 New -mailed in morning to the ancient Sea." 
 
 SEVEN hours down, five hours up. So runs the tide 
 through London town, year in and year out, for ever ; 
 flowing past stone wall and massive pier, muddy beach and 
 weed-grown wharf, mile after mile ; closed in by high, 
 gaunt warehouses, spanned by tier upon tier of proud 
 bridges, mile after mile. Overhead, the south-west wind 
 marshals cloud - legions, helmed like Alpine peaks and 
 robed in thunder, flying banners of radiant blue. . . . 
 Steady as she goes, or we shall hit the bridge. The yellow 
 water curls like a greedy lip upon the rounded bastion, 
 with a little snarling noise, and the wherry grazes the wet 
 stonework. Right ahead is a tug with a train of barges 
 as long as a Lord Mayor's Show, and much more inter- 
 esting. On the right is a great black flotilla of empty 
 lighters, moored and idle, because the trade of Port of 
 London is diminishing, let those in high places gloze the 
 matter as they may. To steer ashore is to risk colliding 
 with a derelict County Council landing-stage. The tide 
 swings the old boat impartially into these perils, and out 
 of them. Humour the tide, and she will help you. Cross 
 her, and she will drown you. The wind, checked by the 
 high buildings, swoops through where it can, and the 
 tanned sail gybes every few minutes, or is taken flat aback, 
 while the wash of the towing barges tosses the boat as 
 though she were in a seaway. 
 
 Below London Bridge, the steamships, haltered along- 
 side the warehouses in droves, are discharging or taking 
 in cargo with a whirring of cranes and a shouting. Now
 
 PORT OF LONDON. 25 
 
 we are in the Pool, and the barges thicken, the men leaning 
 backward upon the long oars, and busy little tugs come 
 foaming up-stream, and the wherries glide in and out like 
 water -beetles, and every now and then a big ship comes 
 riding along, the exhaust cascading from her rusty sides, 
 her upper -works all stained and dim from the send of the 
 sea. The haggard wall of warehouse falls away, and there 
 is the dome of Paul's lifting its golden diadem upon the 
 bright and broken sky, an august patrician looking gravely 
 down upon the River, the great patient servant enslaved to 
 the plebeians. 
 
 Still down and down, past the ships of all the world, 
 black steamers and lavender - hued Norwegian three- 
 masters, red -sailed barges streaking down before the wind, 
 or reaching close-hauled, their lee-boards down alongside 
 like fins. Now are we beyond the London of polite 
 acquaintance, the London of hansom cabs and club, and 
 gilded places where you eat, theatres and drawing-rooms 
 and stuffy places where solemn people talk, and where other 
 solemn people say " How interesting ! " The air has a 
 shrewder savour, tinctured with the pungent waft of the 
 factories whose chimneys are flying plumes of smoke. You 
 are free of the river down here . You may tie up where you 
 will. You may ask what service you will, and get it, or 
 you give it without preface. 
 
 Of course, there are water-thieves as well as land -thieves, 
 as the late William Shakespeare observed, but they are 
 marked by the river-police ; the silent men pulling up and 
 down all day, passing you with an impassive scrutiny when 
 you least expect them. There are men, too, on the border- 
 line — as a grizzled workman told the writer in Limehousc, 
 " If you came to it, there wasn't anybody what was really 
 wliat you might term strictly honest, because they couldn't 
 afford it, Like ' —who go fishing in their broad -beamed 
 cherries, groping with long supple boat-hooks in the river 
 ..i death for il gri ly ecrets. They buy old rope and 
 
 rusty odd, and ends from passing vessels, a trade thus 
 described by a bargeman : "Of course, they don't give
 
 26 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 you so much as what they gets when they sells it to marine 
 store dealers and such, not likely, but there they are, and 
 they throws a rope alongside, and if you catches it, why 
 you do, and if it misses, why, they don't do no trade, and 
 so it goes on, you see." I cannot profess to understand 
 exactly what he meant. 
 
 The old boat would have slopped her way down to 
 Gravesend with the twind and tide, but at a point where 
 Limehouse Church rises white upon a rain - cloud, she 
 stopped, and her sail came down, and she was pulled back 
 against the stream to a little beach overhung with tottering 
 old houses. Their wooden fronts, supported on piles, pro- 
 jected over the river, and a balustraded gallery ran, like 
 an admiral's stern -walk, beneath the ample bow -windows. 
 An accommodation-ladder led from the beach to the gal- 
 lery . At high tide the water washes within a few steps of the 
 top. There is a fleet of empty barges moored inshore. 
 You may tie up to one of them, and walk across them, and 
 climb down upon the beach, and up the accommodation- 
 ladder, and walk through the house into the street behind, 
 and no one questions— you are free of the river. This is 
 not London, but Port of London — a very different place. 
 The street is all warehouses, and there is very little doing. 
 Go where you will along the miles of the riverside, it is 
 ever the same. Why ? " Trade's bad." " Trade's getting 
 worse." "Ships don't come as they used." Why not? 
 "Don't know. All we know is, there ain't no money 
 about." 
 
 The street winding to Limehouse Church is narrow and 
 dirty and noisy and thronged with stout, slatternly women 
 and dim, languid men in torn blue jerseys, and little girls 
 fetching beer in jugs from the public -houses. (One has a 
 vague impression that there is a law concerning children 
 and public-houses. Laws are so useful when one is thirsty, 
 are they not ?) The children crowd the footways of the main 
 thoroughfare, and press about the windows of the tawdry 
 sweet-shops, and the desolate, drab streets opening to right 
 and left are empty, save for the children. Some there are
 
 PORT OF^ LONDON. 27 
 
 clean - pinafored and neat, but nearly all are wan and 
 pinched. The most are huddled into discoloured rags, and 
 are bare-headed and bare -footed. Here is a small boy 
 who is attired in the remnants of his father's wardrobe. 
 He wears some sort of mutilated vest, and part of a waist- 
 coat, and trousers frayed in fringes above the knee, and 
 lacking a seat entirely, and that is all. Here is a small 
 red - haired girl, swathed in a collection of nondescript 
 female garments, generally pink, and insecurely fastened 
 by casual pins. So they drift about the miserable streets, 
 this little brood of dock-rats, and into Limehouse Church- 
 yard. 
 
 The London County Council has thoughtfully removed 
 the gravestones, and piled them neatly along the wall, in a 
 kind of lapidary museum — which must be very gratifying 
 to the descendants of those who erected these memorials — 
 and has planed the mounds into a trim garden. The sound 
 and strife of the streets go up beyond this quiet place, and 
 tired men and factory girls eat their lunch out of paper 
 parcels, sitting on benches beneath the trees. A thick ring 
 of purple irises borders the gravel, and the great stone 
 church casts its shadow on the ragged children playing on 
 the steps. This is Port of London, behind the river wall. 
 
 The tide has turned, and the wind, meeting the stream, 
 buffets it into waves. The old boat can never make her 
 way against the gale, which perpetually blows her athwart 
 the current. Nor can the barges. The ubiquitous little 
 tugs are plying up the river, collecting a barge from this 
 wharf and that, dropping one here and another there, and 
 forging ahead with the rest. Towing in the wake of such 
 a procession, the old boat makes sudden darts and lunges 
 at the barge's scarlet and blue-painted quarter, and bumps 
 her nose on the iron rubbing-strake. 
 
 The bargeman, pipe in mouth, leans upon the flat tiller, 
 and keeps a bright dark eye, narrow -lidded like a hawk's, 
 upon tin- river ahead. His gaze travels over the mounded 
 
 tarpaulin of hi^ own laden boat, and over the barge n< \t 
 ahead, piled with yellow timber. In the stern -sheets,
 
 28 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 beside the steersman, are a woman and a couple of children. 
 Towing abreast is another barge laden with bales of paper, 
 in whose shelter a stout, bearded man sits placid as an idol. 
 
 " What, George? " says my bargeman, genially. -' Glad 
 to see you looking so well, George." 
 
 "Ah," says George. H Never go and look for trouble. 
 That's my motto. It keeps me in health. But what did 
 the old man say this morning? ' George,' he says, ' take 
 and row her up on the tide.' What do you think of that? 
 ' Tide? ' I says. ' Where is it ? I sees the wind,' I says, 
 ' I grant you that, but I don't see no tide. No rowing for 
 me,' I says. ' We'll have a tug.' And here we are. What 
 do you think of that? " 
 
 " He means," explained my bargeman, in a courteous 
 aside, " that his master wanted him to hurry away and row 
 up, and he couldn't, so he didn't." 
 
 The Pool was clearing of craft, and the tug, curving, 
 swung her barges after her, right across the river, as a 
 lady swings her train. A vast Noah's Ark of an empty 
 lighter, towing alongside, cast loose exactly at the right 
 moment, and drifted neatly up between two lines of moored 
 barges to her berth, while the tug turned and steamed up 
 river again, right in the eye of the sinking sun. The red 
 light struck full on the weather -browned face of my barge- 
 man, and the bridges and towering buildings loomed black 
 upon the vivid sky. " We tows at our own risk," said my 
 bargeman. " The tug, she won't take no risk, not she. 
 Forty -one years have I been on this river, and never had 
 an accident but one. Two years ago that was — just two 
 year ago. There 'd been a fog on the water, you see, and 
 it was just clearing, and all the ships was in a tearing hurry 
 to get away. A big steamer run us down in mid -stream — 
 knocked a hole in the bows. We was laden with malt, all 
 covered up with tarpaulin, like as you see it now, so the 
 water only soaked in gradual. She took an hour to sink, 
 and by that time the watermen had helped us to get her into 
 shallow water. The steamship company wouldn't pay. 
 They fought. They always fight sooner nor pay. There
 
 PORT OF LONDON. 29 
 
 was a big case at one of they High Courts of Justice. 
 There was me and my two sons against the captain and 
 the first mate, and the second mate and all of them — seven- 
 teen altogether — the 'ole ship's company. And three 
 counsels on each side. I told the truth, and we won. Tell 
 the truth, I say, and nobody can't shake you. You're safe. 
 The other way, you aren't never safe. It takes too much 
 cleverness, that's where it is." 
 
 We were gliding past the Tower, within whose grey 
 walls, now fringed with spring verdure, men and women 
 have pined and died for the sake of both principles. 
 Thence, beneath the shadow of Westminster, within whose 
 fretted walls there is " too much cleverness," and too — 
 " Get aboard, now, and we'll cast off." 
 
 The old boat slipped her head -line, and the barges slid 
 away, and diminished to a blot upon the bright water, and 
 were lost to view. They were going up to Wandsworth 
 on the tide, and, having discharged their cargo, would 
 come down on the next, whether by day or night. Night 
 and day, year in and year out, these sturdy carriers of Port 
 of London ply up and down the flood that wells out of the 
 heart of the green country, flowing from flowery margents, 
 where the cattle stand to drink knee -deep in the reeds, 
 past stone wall and mossy pier, muddy beach and weed- 
 grown wharf, mile after mile. Spanned by tier after tier 
 of proud bridges, closed in by high, gaunt warehouses, mile 
 after mile, the River bears the ships of all the world and 
 their servants the barges in and out of Port of London, 
 and wins to where all roads by land or water end at last, 
 the sea.
 
 3o LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 THE TREASURE-CITY. 
 
 " The lofty buildings of this place 
 
 For many years have lasted 
 With nutmegs, pepper, cloves, and mace, 
 
 The walls are there rough -casted. 
 In curious hasty -puddings boiled, 
 
 And most ingenious carving ; 
 Likewise they are with pancakes tiled, 
 
 Sure, here's no fear of starving." 
 
 Buried in the core of the City of London, secluded, un- 
 remarked, approached through a modest gateway opening 
 from a muddy, crowded footway, there stands a square pile 
 of buildings, vast as a mediaeval castle. In the courtyards 
 great vans and wagons are waiting, looking small, like 
 toys, beneath the sombre cliffs of brickwork. A tier of 
 black openings, rising one above the other, pierce the wall ; 
 little figures of men stand on the verge, receiving huge 
 bales and boxes swung to them in mid -air, and thrusting 
 them within. So it was when the old East India Company 
 founded their gigantic warehouses to store the wealth of 
 all the East, more than a hundred years ago ; so it is to- 
 day, now that the Dock Company holds them, and the mer- 
 chandise of all the world is lodged in those strong walls. 
 
 In a dusky chamber, so wide that its ceilings, supported 
 on stout colonnades and carved consoles, weighs upon the 
 head, are piled carpets three and four feet high, laid in 
 separate heaps, like a divan of kings ; room after room the 
 same, with a glimmer of rich hues and a gleam of costly 
 silk, all the stuffs of Araby, fabrics from a thousand looms, 
 spoils of palace and of mosque. Sedate men unroll them 
 silently, and replace them, and melt into the shadows, their 
 noiseless footsteps following the myriad footsteps of the 
 dead generations, which passed upon the faded arabesques. 
 . . . Look, this carpet is worth a thousand pounds to-day. 
 Up the stone stairs, attended by the sedate men who are 
 the constant custodians of incalculable riches, to the top, 
 where, ranged beneath skylights, along the immense floors, 
 are the feathers and plumage and bright skins of birds.
 
 PORT OF LONDON. 31 
 
 In one case alone are ostrich feathers, orderly laid, 
 enough to furnish forth all Regent Street ; in another the 
 massed sheen of Himalayan pheasants ; in another the 
 delicate metallic sparkle of humming-birds, inexpressibly 
 vivid. The sedate custodian, holding the feathered skins 
 so that the light takes them, bends over the small boy who 
 is of the party, and who gazes and sets a hesitating linger 
 on the glitter, and is pale and interested and silent. So, 
 room after room, along the summit of the gigantic build- 
 ing. It is very quiet here ; the hum of the city is stilled, 
 and the air blows freshly from the unseen river flowing 
 near at hand. 
 
 And yet here is but a tithe of the wealth of Golconda, 
 stored in one warehouse out of a town — a city — of ware- 
 houses. 
 
 Another storehouse, built about the still water of the 
 docks, where ships heave high their prows beside the wharf, 
 and a snowy flowing figurehead of a woman with clasped 
 hands, slides into the dark shed. Here is a great room 
 paved with elephant's tusks, piled and heaped with ivory. 
 And where are all the elephants, an army huger than 
 Hannibal's? Here are barrels of ivory fragments, re- 
 turned by American artificers to be worked in this country ; 
 casks of whales' teeth ; and the tusks of extinct mastodons, 
 quarried in Siberia. Here are rooms stuffed with spices, 
 cassia, and cloves and cinnamon ; rooms stored with iron 
 bottles of quicksilver ; rooms rilled with all the ware of 
 all the earth. 
 
 Here, on the ground floor are bales of wool from 
 Australia, acres of bales of wool. Below, stored in cata- 
 combs, is the raw indiarubber in sections, hard and wet 
 and acrid smelling, and in knobs as they come from the 
 trees, like roots. 
 
 Returning to a brief vision of daylight, a vision com- 
 mingled of warehouse, shed, barrels, ships, masts, still 
 water, swing bridges, more oily water, barges, sedate cus- 
 todians, stevedores, the explorers descend certain steps 
 newly spread with sawdust, into an illimitable darkness, 
 shot with tiny lamps vanishing into the unknown beneath
 
 32 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 dim arches. A solemn custodian presents each person with 
 a tiny lamp flaring at the end of a long handle of polished 
 wood. Footsteps fall noiselessly upon the deep sawdust 
 of the road ; on either side loom rows upon rows of wine 
 casks ; overhead, the fungus crawls upon the vaulting ; 
 and from out the gloom comes the wailing of cats. Miles 
 upon miles of cats and fungus, populated by the cats that 
 eat the rats— the wine cellar of London. 
 
 A majestic person, ringed with smoky lights and atten- 
 tive faces, stands pontifical beside a noble cask. He takes 
 an ell -long tube of glass, and plunges it through the hole 
 in the roof of the cask, and the wine rises rose -red. He 
 holds the vial, dripping wine, over a wine-glass, and the 
 fifty-year -old port, passing from hand to hand, glows and 
 twinkles, deep-hued like a sunset, fragrant like flowers. 
 In this crypt of the wine -god — buried out of sight and 
 sound, all London, roaring overhead in the garish day- 
 light and the mud, fallen wholly out of mind — we drink in 
 silence, each to his own divinity, and the cats wail out of 
 the dark . 
 
 Steaming down the river, past red -sailed barges coming 
 up with the tide, and cargo -boats outward bound, and black 
 islands of moored barges, and masted ships at anchor, the 
 rampart of London town goes by, mile after mile. Mile 
 after mile of warehouse and wharf and factory, dock and 
 factory and mill and warehouse, the stately palace of 
 Greenwich Hospital, the great dark buildings of Woolwich, 
 the old, bow -windowed taverns tottering on piles — the 
 whole procession of the mart of the world goes by. 
 
 The scrolled quarter of an ocean-going steamer rises 
 high above the lock-gates, and the funnels of a P. and O. 
 liner rise near by. The gates, opening, disclose a space 
 of shining water and the tall tower of red canvas, cut off 
 aslant at the top, of a sailing barge in the eye of the sun. 
 As the space broadens the ranks of great ships on either 
 hand are lost in the golden haze. Near at hand a barge, 
 gaudy red and green, swings upon the oar, a woman and 
 two fair-haired girls sitting alongside the sturdy oarsman, 
 while a retriever barks conversationally in the bows.
 
 PORT OF LONDON. 33 
 
 Those tin roofs cover some thousands of frozen car- 
 cases of sheep. In the yellow half-light behold them piled 
 orderly in cubes, stiff ears projecting, the ribs ringing hard 
 as wood to the blow of a stick, and it is very cold. . . . 
 The autumn sunlight without is hot as the breath of the 
 Tropics. 
 
 Near by is a plain building, which holds all the tobacco 
 that comes to London. All the tobacco that comes to 
 London, behind a common brick wall ! All the tobacco 
 . . . well, there it is. 
 
 Cargo -boat and liner and masted ship and barge and 
 wherry shed and warehouse and mill and a piece of grass 
 and a flagstaff, and shed and warehouse and swing-bridge, 
 and the gold -laced burly figure of the superintendenty 
 and grizzled blue -clad men, all wrapt in the profound and 
 holy calm induced by enormous possessions — so, for three 
 miles of dock, and so out again into the troubled river 
 eddying to the sea, and the towers and buildings darkening 
 in the golden haze. . . . 
 
 And still this is only a fraction of the whole. 
 
 Released from the spell of that stupendous hoard, such 
 as Solomon the Great never knew, such as Haroun-al- 
 Raschid never dreamed of, nor could the treasure of the 
 Incas buy it, fancy still wanders amid those endless high- 
 piled silent chambers ; and still beholds a figure going 
 before, that turns and beckons. It is the figure of an old, 
 bent seaman. Beneath a mane of snowy hair, his eyes look 
 forth, intent and lustrous like an eagle's eyes, as he flits 
 into the shadow. His likeness hangs in the Painted Hall 
 at Greenwich, pictured by Thornhill, and his dark face 
 and wild elf-locks start from out the crowded allegory of 
 the frescoed ceiling— the portrait of the old Pensioner. 
 For he and his fellows, the men .of the sea, generation 
 after generation, far back among the centuries, brought 
 the laden ships to England, and still bring them, going 
 to and fro on all seas, piling high the pyramid of wealth, of 
 which their share was, and is, the bare wages of heroic toil. 
 
 L.P.L.S. D
 
 34 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 V.— WASTE. 
 
 " They say they scorn to tell you lies, 
 That they are not mistaken ; 
 But the streets are paved with pudding -pies, 
 Nay, powdered beef and bacon." 
 
 " It isn't doing the work, it's walking about to get it," 
 said the stevedore. "Look at this here dock. Water 
 empty, sheds empty, steamers rottin', grass a-growin' along 
 the wharf." 
 
 He stood with shoulders slightly bowed, arms hanging 
 loosely at his sides, head bent forward, and a look in his 
 grey eyes like the look of a dog searching for his master. 
 On the left was a long row of storage sheds, empty, as he 
 said, the paint scaling off them ; on the right were two big 
 cargo -boats, laid up for lack of business ; in front, the 
 expanse of still water reflected the grey clouds. Beyond 
 the lock gates was the airy, mocking freedom of the broad 
 river and the open sky. Across the caisson moved a pro- 
 cession of some twenty men pushing trucks, and save for 
 these the great dock was wholly deserted. 
 
 ■"■ I remember the time," said the stevedore, " when the 
 water was that crowded the ships couldn't hardly move. 
 It was the big strike that began the trouble, twenty years, 
 ago. I was in that. Australia sent £30,000 to us. But 
 there are too many men, you see — too many men. The 
 outsiders got in and stayed — studied the business, like, and 
 got the billets — and it wasn't likely the strikers would be 
 put back. Then the trade went from the port, of course, 
 and it ain't never come back. Why should it? There 
 ain't the facilities here what they get in Antwerp and them 
 foreign ports, not to mention Liverpool and Southampton.
 
 WASTE. 3 5 
 
 And the ships is getting so big, I've seen 'em stick in the 
 gates, and have to be hauled off by tugs, and taken out 
 into the stream. No. It pays the ships better to 
 go abroad. . . . We'll go out the back way. There's 
 no more to see. The place is empty, as you see." 
 
 On the way out we met one apprentice and a cat. But 
 outside the side entrance were near a hundred sturdy men, 
 leaning against the wall or lying on the pavement asleep. 
 They were waiting for a ship to come in. It is the occupa- 
 tion of their lives. 
 
 " Of course," said the stevedore, " there's men among 
 them who work till they've earned a shilling and then 
 throw it up. They makes it bad for the rest, for they gets 
 in first, and the others is kept idle for the day. It's this 
 why. Early in the morning, afore the gates open, hun- 
 dreds collect outside, every morning just the same, fighting 
 to be first, for it's first come, first served, climbing over 
 one another's backs. Look here." He pulled out the 
 torn side -pocket of his jacket. " They uses that as a 
 stirrup, and walks on your head. You wouldn't believe the 
 sight. And every morning. Of course, these ain't the 
 regular staff. The dock companies keep a regular staff, 
 and drafts them from one port to another, according as the 
 work is, you understand. Then if there's extra to be done 
 they takes men from outside. If the foreman knows your 
 name it's an advantage, for he picks you — if you can fight 
 your way in, that is." 
 
 We were walking along the curious, winding, shadowy 
 streets behind the river wall, which wear an aspect inde- 
 finitely different from others . Here is a row of neat houses, 
 set behind flowering gardens, built in more prosperous 
 days, and now pressed upon by the slatternly, flat -faced 
 streets of abject poverty. Here a patch of low-browed 
 shops, and beyond rises a tall grey church. The place is 
 bare of traffic ; foot passengers are few ; only the children 
 drift about the pavements. 
 
 " Yes," the stevedore went on, in his level, colourless 
 tones, '-' it's not the doing of the work but the walking 
 
 D 2
 
 36 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 about to get it that does for a man. It fair takes it out of 
 him. I get up at five o'clock, say, and go to the wharf 
 where I've worked for years, so they know me, and if there's 
 a job I get the preference. It was regular once, so I took 
 and lived near by, in Wappi'ng. (They call Wapping. 
 rough, but give a dog a bad name and hang him, as they 
 say. It's quiet enough now. Not but what the seamen 
 coming ashore are treated shameful still. .You see them 
 big sheeny-men with spectacles come down when a ship's 
 come in, and persuades the men to come along to their 
 shops and buy a suit of clothes for three pounds what 
 ain't worth three -and -six.) Well, as I was saying, if I'm 
 early at the wharf, and there ain't no job, that leaves me 
 time to walk around to the docks. And it's a long walk 
 between them. Walk 1 You should see the men a -walk- 
 ing, London Docks to London and West Indies, and on 
 to JMillwall. Miles and miles they walk, every morning." 
 He looked down at his boots. The soles were worn thin' 
 as paper, and the leathers were broken. " Well, say I don't 
 get nothing at the wharf — and the wharfinger has put it 
 up for sale and no buyers — I walk to London and West 
 Indies. Then there's the fighting and climbing over one 
 another's backs, and trouble, as I was saying. 'Nothing 
 doing. I goes home again and reports to my wife, Nothing 
 yet. Then I walks round again, and perhaps comes in again 
 about eleven o'clock to report. For my missis, d'ye see, 
 she thinks if I don't come in I've got a bit of work, and 
 there'll be some money in the evening. Then, out again, 
 stand here for a bit, then take a stroll to pass away the 
 time, then stand there, and so on, till you're so tired you 
 couldn't hardly do a job of work if you got it.' 1 
 
 " How do you live ? " 
 
 " Well," said the stevedore, " it's a fair masterpiece how 
 some on us do contrive to live, it is that. I got two days' 
 work last week, that was at four and sevenpence halfpenny 
 the day, counting fourpence halfpenny they takes off for 
 the dinner -hour, you understand. I don't grumble at the 
 pay. Why, if it was only regular I could do with less, and
 
 WASTE. 37 
 
 not grumble. I should know where I was . It's cruel, the 
 way it is. But we gets along, and my wife she takes in a 
 bit of washing, and we agrees very well." 
 
 " Why don't you go to Canada? " 
 
 " Ah," said the stevedore, deliberately, " I do believe 
 a man could do something out there if he chose to work. 
 If I was alone — but I've got a wife and two children.'' 
 
 " Emigration societies — " 
 
 He shook his head. " My wife wouldn't go. She's 
 a riverside girl, you see." 
 
 That was it. Once riverside, always riverside, especi- 
 ally among the women. 
 
 " Not but what if we got a free passage, and had some- 
 thing certain at the other end, I believe she'd go, I do, 
 indeed," said the stevedore. " But, Lord ! No one never 
 does anything of that sort." 
 
 The tram glided along the broad main thoroughfare, 
 among the heavy goods from the docks, laboriously carted 
 along miles of road, between the wide pavements thronged 
 with loafing men and bare-headed women, and ever the 
 drifting children. . . . 
 
 " You see," said the stevedore, " when you have children 
 you have to be careful — very careful. It's all for them 
 and nothing for yourself. Sometimes there's enough to 
 spare for a bit of tobacco." He took a pinch of bird'seye 
 from a metal box, and rolled a thin cigarette, and began to 
 smoke, his sad, set gaze fixed upon vacancy.
 
 38 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 VI.— THE COMMONS. 
 
 " Let your light so shine before men that they may see your 
 good works 
 
 Sir Charles Barry's noble Palace of Westminster 
 fronts on one side the changeless, immemorial River ; and 
 on the other the rush of traffic that turns aside and huddles 
 past the Abbey towers ; and so the Palace, islanded be- 
 tween the tides of water and of life, stands a little apart, 
 wrapped in a splendid and an austere dignity. Long wall 
 and high tower and fretted pinnacle cast their shadow 
 broad upon the stream, where the silent barges go floating 
 by ; and high uplifted into quiet air, the carved work 
 takes the sunlight, half veiled in shining mist. The river 
 goes upon its appointed errand down to the sea, and returns 
 again ; and the boats ply to and fro with the tide, as they 
 did from the beginning, ere the Palace was conceived in 
 the brain of the architect, and as they will when its wrought 
 stones are dust. 
 
 Out of sight and sound of the noiseless River, the 
 generations flit and fade in heat and turmoil, ever perishing 
 and ever renewed, eddying in and out the painted chambers 
 of the Palace, changing and dissolving even as you look. 
 
 At nightfall, the River goes lighted along its way like 
 a monarch who makes his royal progress through his city, 
 between the lined thousands of his guards, each, himself 
 invisible, poising a ball of flame and holding upright a 
 lance of tremulous fire. His sombre mantle is sown with 
 dim stars, and arabesqued with the dark forms of ships ; 
 and so he marches night by night, to meet his bride the sea. 
 
 And the Palace, darkling upon the vast obscurity of the
 
 THE COMMONS. 39 
 
 heavens, glows in every foliated window with excess of 
 light ; and on its topmost towers shines a beacon ; high 
 sign and symbol that the wise men of the nation, who are 
 taking counsel together within, resolute for the common 
 good, are hiding not their light under a bushel, or any 
 such thing. . . . 
 
 Let us enter, and behold that light so shining ; now, 
 in mid -afternoon, when the Commons assemble. 
 
 The House of Commons is best seen from above — from 
 either the Press Gallery or the Strangers' Gallery. Thence 
 you survey the rows of tired members, packed along the 
 green benches on the floor of the lofty brown chamber ; 
 other tired members entering from the lobby and standing, 
 legs wide apart, for a few pensive moments, and then re- 
 tiring ; other tired members walking up the matted path- 
 way, and bowing to the Speaker, and collapsing upon a 
 green bench ; the bewigged clerks at the table, Mr. 
 Speaker, austere beneath his carven canopy, the great gold 
 mace, and the torn scraps of paper littered everywhere. 
 
 Behold, ranged on the Front Bench, a row of solid, 
 opulent gentlemen, who, by virtue of indomitable tenacity, 
 perpetual manoeuvring, a pleasing style of address, charm- 
 ing manners, and what is called influence, have won their 
 way to the seats of the mighty. For a few brief years, 
 they cling to the crags of Olympus, and wonder what in 
 the world is happening down below, and especially how 
 long it will be before they fall off. They borrow one 
 another's matches to kindle their little lights withal, that 
 they may so shine before men. Then the ex-Olympians 
 try to blow them out. If they can blow them all out at 
 once, they have won the game, and become kings of the 
 castle in their turn. The game is called Democratic 
 Government, its origin is of great antiquity. Its peculiar 
 charm is that they are the spectators who pay all expenses, 
 and suffer all the penalties. Why not? They like it. If 
 they did not like it, they would end it. 
 
 There they sit, the Prime Minister, the Chancellor of 
 the Exchequer, the Postmaster-General, the Secretary for
 
 40 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 Ireland, the President of the Board of 'Trade, the First 
 Lord of the Admiralty — a random selection from the round 
 score of the heads of vast and intricate departments of 
 State whose business they are not even expected to under- 
 stand. Opposite to them, sit the ex -heads of the said de- 
 partments, whose duty it is to criticise the conduct of the 
 departments whose business, when they had charge of it, 
 they did not understand. 
 
 These are the picked team. The rest, with one or two 
 inconsiderable exceptions, do what they are told, which is 
 chiefly nothing. To the eye of the casual spectator, the 
 packed benches represent the liberties of England, 
 assembled for free and open debate. Nothing of the sort. 
 Some few, beside the leaders, may get a chance once in 
 three months or so, to address empty benches. The rest 
 of the time, save for intermittent visits to the division 
 lobbies, is their own. But what (you ask) of the Labour 
 members, those sturdy champions of the Oppressed ? 
 Nothing. They sit in a round-shouldered, apathetic group, 
 ranged below the Irish on the Opposition side, because 
 they have a nebulous idea that they ought to oppose the 
 Government. There they sit, day after day. It is much 
 easier than working. When they are not there, they are 
 bickering among themselves outside. Once a Labour man 
 was given office, wherein, for the 'first time in his life, 
 he was able to be of some use. He was immediately 
 rejected of his fellows, who denounced him as a " traitor." 
 
 A coloured shaft of sunlight strikes upon the bald head 
 of a Minister, who has risen to read an 1 answer to a question. 
 He is not aware that such and such events have occurred. 
 His information differs entirely from the information of 
 the honourable member. So far from the Government 
 being in any way to blame, it is the best of all possible 
 Governments — at any rate, it is indescribably better than 
 the last. Yes. Quite so. He sits down. Someone 
 opposite rises to ask a supplementary question — " Arising 
 out of that answer, Mr. Speaker, may I " ask the right 
 honourable gentleman another damaging question, which,
 
 THE COMMONS. 41 
 
 you might suppose, would floor him. Not at all. He 
 knows nothing about it, or he asks for notice, or his hon. 
 friend is again misinformed. You might suppose, again, 
 that, upon a material question of assertions, which, if true, 
 ought to blast the Government for ever, or which, if false, 
 ought utterly to shame the questioner, some conclusion 
 would be reached. Not at all. You do not know your 
 House of Commons. Nothing happens — nothing at all. 
 If the discussion seems in danger of touching finality, the 
 Speaker intervenes. There are a great many more ques- 
 tions on the list, and you rnust give the other fellows a 
 chance, says Mr. Speaker. Such are the rules of the game. 
 It is the same in debate. The course of the game is 
 arranged beforehand between the Whips on either side, 
 and the players are duly stationed. 
 
 Lo, the Prime Minister rises, the image of stiff-necked 
 rectitude. He seems to be angry. Why? He is not really 
 angry — that is only his pretty way. He thinks it well to 
 fortify his case, by implying a nobly suppressed indignation 
 aroused by the very apprehension that anyone — least of all 
 the gentlemen lounging opposite— should presume to differ 
 from him . He expounds his case with a sonorous, emphatic 
 delivery. It sounds a good case — a perfect case. " Yer- 
 yer-yer," growl the benches behind him. Then arises a 
 right honourable gentleman opposite, and leans an elbow 
 on the table, and presents the most damaging objections. 
 Seeing that his vocation in life is public speaking, he can 
 hardly be said to have mastered it. But he knows that the 
 row of vigilant reporters ravenously scribbling, in the 
 gallery, will correct his grammar and omit his repetitions ; 
 and after all, give him time enough — and there is plenty of 
 time — he can actually convey his real meaning, almost 
 always. He sits down, and talks to the statesman next 
 him, while someone on the Government side rises in 
 obedience to the Speaker, and stumbles through a jungle 
 of platitudes. Men are coming in and out all the time, and 
 there is a rustic along the benches, and an occasional " ycr- 
 yer," or a roll of " Oh — oh " from the Opposition. The
 
 42 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 orator sits down. He has done his duty for the next few 
 weeks. Then a Labour man gets up. He is at no loss for 
 words — especially long words. He keeps a little retinue 
 of them, which he enlisted when he used to declaim at 
 street -corners. Collectively, they mean nothing in par- 
 ticular. And so the hours wear away, men coming and 
 going, and the benches rustling, and the litter of paper 
 thickening, until it is time for dinner, and the members 
 troop out, and a novice gets his chance to speak to vacancy. 
 After dinner, they return, for the Leader of the Opposition 
 is to wind up the case against the Government, with that 
 inimitable skill which has been the admiration of so many 
 Parliaments . 
 
 He rises, serene, urbane, commanding. He is fluent, 
 easy, lucid, witty. He has stored in that nimble brain of 
 his, all the fallacies of his opponents, one by one, during 1 
 the weary weary hours of talk, and labelled them, each with 
 its appropriate comment, gibe, or refutation. Now he 
 strings them all together and reels them off with the glit- 
 tering dexterity of a juggler. With a final twist to the 
 string, the artist falls back in his seat ; his limbs relax ; 
 his gentle face gazes placidly upward. He knows exactly 
 what will be the Prime Minister's reply, before that majestic 
 person rises. 
 
 So does the Prime Minister, because it is not a reply at 
 all. No politician who is not a master of the side issue, 
 can hope to hold office. So he gently booms his virtuous 
 drum for seven minutes. 
 
 Upstairs in the Press gallery, the reporters are shovelling 
 their papers together, for the show is over. They crowd 
 out of the haggard, emptying Chamber, into the labyrinth 
 of rooms and passages which they inhabit. 
 
 "• That was a smart thing of Jones's," says one. " Must 
 have been an accident." 
 
 "■ O, the Opposition's no more good than a sick head- 
 ache," returns the political light of an Opposition journal. 
 
 He turns up his cuffs, and sits down to write : " The 
 leaders of the Opposition had last night good cause to
 
 THE COMMONS. 43 
 
 congratulate themselves/' etc. ; while his Radical friend 
 at his elbow is inditing : — " The miserable vacillation of 
 the Opposition Front Bench was never more clearly dis- 
 played, in the face of Mr. Jones's magnificent vindication," 
 etc. 
 
 And after a brief period of severe toil, they adjourn to 
 the bar, and drink together in amity. 
 
 The army of reporters, having duly chronicled the pro- 
 gress of the game, each in his manner, leaves the precincts, 
 bids the cheery policeman good-night, and disperses home- 
 wards . 
 
 The light on the topmost pinnacle is extinguished. But 
 it will burn again to-morrow.
 
 44 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 VII.— "THE PARK." 
 
 " And now you go on a journey. And I," said the Little Heiress, 
 " go to walk in the Park." 
 
 The smooth roadways are lined with green chairs, and 
 gentle and simple sit in rows all the golden afternoon, and 
 watch the quality go rolling past in their fine carriages. 
 Past they go, in two staid and shining streams, the strong 
 light flashing on varnish as the hither tide slides from sun 
 to shadow beneath the trees. The sky, very high and 
 stainless, radiates exuberant light ; the new foliage is 
 drenched with it ; the mounded blossoms glow like a fire ; 
 and the level greensward is carved in sharp -edged pat- 
 terns, lacquered with living colour or washed with pearl. 
 Amid the receding,; brilliant vistas move to and fro the 
 figures of ladies, hued like the flowers, upon such a scene 
 as Watteau might have painted . And all the while, gentle 
 and simple sit in rows upon green chairs, and watch the 
 quality go rolling past in their shining carriages, placidly 
 amused like folk at a theatre. For it is mid-afternoon 
 in the Park, at the full flush of the Season . 
 
 If you have a carriage, you put on fine raiment and 
 place a King Charles spaniel on the little seat with its back 
 to the horses, and then you drive in the Park, through the 
 sunlight and the shadow, beneath the trees, between the 
 flowers. If you have no such equipage, you pay a lei- 
 surely official a penny for a chair. If you have no penny, 
 you sit on a bench, which is more comfortable and less 
 select. You sit beside a man who has all to do with horses. 
 You can tell so much by a glance at his shrewd, grey eye, 
 and the peculiar twist of his clean-shaven visage. He tells
 
 "THE PARK." 45 
 
 you he is enjoying a few days' rest before taking charge 
 of a hunting stable — which is a bit of all right. He con- 
 templates the glossy horses as they trot past, with a pro- 
 found and silent interest. He sees that the motor-car, as 
 a fashion, is waning in favour, and he is glad. 
 
 " The gentry," he says, meditatively, " don't care for 
 a thing as soon as it gets cheap. And horses — good horses 
 — are dear." 
 
 Are they? Stern moralist, with eyes asquint, what a 
 power of money there is in England I And how beautiful, 
 this golden afternoon, appears its expenditure I Doubtless 
 the pageant of the Park upon a June afternoon may be 
 rivalled among the capital cities of the nations, but never 
 outrivalled, if only by virtue of the English green of its 
 setting. A hundred yards away runs the pitiless, inter- 
 minable traffic of a main thoroughfare, whose tumult is here 
 subdued to a vibrant murmur. A hundred yards away the 
 sun beats on the harsh pavement, and life is a disagreeable 
 effort. But here, in this wide garden, are ease and sun- 
 light and a drowsy quietude. All is as it seems, for the 
 time ; and that (rightly considered) is the best of life. 
 The lines of carriages go by like waves of the sea, with 
 the horses' smooth and noble motion, the coachman and 
 footman seated like statues, and within the carriage ladies 
 robed like the summer. And all sorts of people go by 
 besides ; a family party in a hired landau, a girl on a bi- 
 cycle, an old gentleman ,in a victoria, shrunken into himself, 
 a famous barrister, hawk -faced, wearing last year's hat 
 (which wants brushing), a white-haired lady whose coach- 
 man and footman wear knee breeches and silk stockings, 
 a girl, very upright, driving a two-wheeled cart, with a 
 cockaded groom beside her, a couple of pale ladies in a 
 brougham . . . All polite London goes by, past the rows 
 of people on the green chairs, who admire them so sin- 
 cerely and so contentedly, while they hearken, as in a sunny 
 dream, to B strain of music faintly thrilling the languorous 
 air. 
 
 It falls and dies ; and in the pause the low roll of wheels
 
 46 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 seems a part of the silence. The people who pass by along 
 the footway awaken a vague interest. A hospital nurse 
 goes by, pale-faced, her eyes fixed on vacancy. A tall, 
 spare gentleman, tightly buttoned into a morning coat, tall- 
 hatted, gloved, umbrellaed, goes by. He walks stiffly, and 
 wears the bland expanse of forehead characterising the Per- 
 manent Official. An old, old gentleman in a bird's-eye 
 neckcloth wanders feebly beside a stout lady with a severe 
 countenance. A little clerk goes by, carrying a worn bag, 
 with an air of conscious rectitude. A young man of the 
 blue suit and brown boots type, goes by. Then goes by 
 a tall, lean gentleman, burned saddle colour, quick -eyed, 
 moving easily and lightly — no townsman he. A naval 
 officer goes by, nor does his suit of flannels disguise him. 
 A nursemaid leads a little tiny girl, who plays with her 
 shadow. A white-haired workman drops upon a bench, 
 folds his arms and is instantly asleep. So they all pass 
 from the daily routine into this place of sunshine and quiet 
 and green trees, where the quality go by in their fine car- 
 riages ; and all are enmeshed for the time in the golden 
 spell ; and then they pass again to familiar, work-worn 
 things, and thence, each in his turn — whither? 
 
 The music steals again upon the air ; and if you cross 
 the road between the carriages and pass the rows of green 
 chairs — and three Hebrew ladies in silk and lace (a little 
 soiled) — and a space of lawn where a fountain sparkles, 
 and a mower whets his scythe ; you shall come into the 
 shade of the avenue, and behold the riders flit among the 
 trees, and the dark bandstand rising near by, crowned with 
 the red tunics of the musicians, and more rows of green 
 chairs, where the people sit and talk in low tones, and eye 
 one another askance, after the manner of the English. The 
 music weaves a shining web about their lazy senses, and; 
 time is not. ;So many disparate lives are gathered into 
 the web, subdued to the enchantment of the sunlight and 
 the flowers ; and the delicate melody is the prelude to 
 none knows what, and the most do not care at all — and 
 why should they? Carriages are drawn up alongside the
 
 "THE PARK." 47. 
 
 footway, and the footmen stand beside the horses' heads. 
 At the end of the row is a light, two -seated cart, spick and 
 span. A girl with level eyebrows sits in the driver's place, 
 slightly raised above the neat young gentleman, her com- 
 panion. They are talking pleasantly together, and the 
 music hides their voices. 
 
 Then the music stops. Upon the line of waiting car- 
 riages, and the serried rows of people, a silence falls, a 
 silence as of expectation. The impassive faces give no 
 sign. They are waiting, as we all wait, upon expectation ; 
 but in this shadowed place and casual pause, to which they 
 were drawn together as by accident, they are all uncon- 
 scious of the fanciful significance of the moment. All un- 
 awares they play their part, and compose a picture they 
 cannot see. . . . 
 
 Only the girl in the cart, gazing down the sunbright 
 vista, seemed alert and listening. The youth beside her, 
 his face turned a little upwards and towards her, seemed 
 to be waiting also. Then she turned to him, and looked 
 kindly upon him, and said something, and the faces of 
 both were changed. . . . 
 
 Then the music broke forth again.
 
 48 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 VIII.— BANK HOLIDAY. 
 
 " We are the folk that a -summering wenti 
 
 Who while the year was young were bent — 
 Yea, bent on doing this self -same thing. 
 Which we have done unto some extent. 
 This is the end of our summering" 
 
 High above the booths little figures swung giddily up 
 and down in the haze of dust, like a row of frantic pendu- 
 lums. In the midst of the fair rose a circular tower, 
 wreathed about with the appearance of a stairway. Nearer 
 hand, the expanse of rough grass and sand is dotted over 
 with seated groups and littered with scraps of paper. Be- 
 yond, a troubled: sky arches down upon the thickened cloud, 
 pierced here and there by spire and chimney -shaft, which 
 broods over London. The fitful southerly wind brings a 
 throbbing, brazen clamour of distant music. This is Wan- 
 stead Fair, on Wanstead Flats, and to-day is Bank Holiday. 
 
 Several millions of people in London Town would be at 
 a stand to know where are Wanstead Flats . They are near 
 by the River Lea and Leytonstone in Essex, and you get 
 there by diving into the City, emerging at Liverpool 
 Street or Fenchurch Street and taking a train which glides 
 across the roofs of many miles of packed houses, in which 
 the people live like mites in a cheese. Over backyards, 
 and past huge factories and stagnant canals and tumbled 
 deserts of waste ground out along the draggled fringes of 
 the skirts of Mother London till the green begins to show, 
 and the houses to fall away, and* there is a waft of the, 
 country. All the trains are gliding out crammed with 
 people soberly happy, because they are out for the day. 
 They bring their children washed and neat, they bring
 
 BANK HOLIDAY. 49 
 
 baskets, they bring paper bags, they bring, above all, a 
 simple joy which is a treasure inestimable. 
 
 Behold them in the Fair, something scorched by the 
 unwonted sun, dusty, sauntering, placidly staring. iThey 
 are densely pressed against the platform of the theatre. 
 Its front is a bewildering blaze of gilding and barbaric 
 scrollwork, in whose centre the pipes of a steam-driven 
 organ are roaring, and drums are beating like live things, 
 and trumpets are screaming. Upon the platform three or 
 four girls, rouged and bedizened, are dancing to the music, 
 while a couple of grotesque figures are playing the fool. 
 At the side a portly, pleasant -faced gentleman in a grey 
 frock-coat, continually jangles upon a large bell. This 
 is not the entertainment, though it looks like it. The real 
 show is within. The performers on the proscenium are 
 merely there to excite interest. The idea is subtle. If 
 what we give you for nothing be so attractive what must 
 it be like inside ! Admission twopence, to the high-class 
 family entertainment, children half - price. Children ! 
 There were children in droves, in heaps, from the raga- 
 muffin to the superior infant in a clean pinafore. They 
 thronged up the steps, all among the legs of their elders ; 
 and we all paid our pennies to a stout lady with a wooden 
 countenance, and dived into a stifling darkness. 
 
 There we stood on the sand and waited, and tried to 
 hope that the steam -organ would some day stop, and stared 
 at the square of white curtain, until the National Anthem 
 began to play. Performed on a steam-organ it ranks with 
 any other tune, and is not regarded as patriotic. It ended ; 
 a white light shone from the back, and the celebrated cine- 
 matograph entertainment began. The muse was Ameri- 
 can. There was no mistake at all as to the relations exist- 
 ing between the gentleman in the silk hat and the lady in 
 the summer frock, who were rambling (at about fifteen 
 miles an hour) in the forest. They came upon a gipsy 
 encampment, they crossed the gipsy's hand, she took them, 
 with the swiftness of lightning, into her tent. Silent ex- 
 plosions of smoke — inexpressible consternation of the silk 
 
 L.P.L.S. E
 
 50 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 hat, as his extremely undesirable past appears in the back- 
 ground. There is another lady. He affects unconcern. 
 The summer frock trusts him still. The gipsy bursts into 
 a passion of silent mockery. Away ! 'Tis the marriage 
 morn ; venerable parent giving his daughter away. Enter 
 another lady, an infant in her arms. Fainting, confusion, 
 horror — silk hat led away (at twenty miles an hour) by two 
 policemen in German caps. Dear me. Audience silent, 
 impressed, and perspiring. 
 
 In the next arrangement, the daughter of a dying stone - 
 breaker takes to the high-toby in sheer desperation ; and, 
 disguised as a cowboy, she holds up a stage coach. She 
 is hunted down by the sheriff and his bronco boys, tried 
 and condemned in five seconds, led out to be hanged, and 
 the rope is over the branch in five more. Then her hair 
 comes down, and — the rest, of course, you know. It 
 is the sheriff himself who hands round the hat (a tall 
 hat, his own) for the dying stonebreaker and his gallant 
 lass. 
 
 Outside the sunlight dazzles. All among the vans, at 
 the back of the theatre, a lady is placidly washing greens 
 for tea. The open door reveals the corner of a locker, 
 covered with a chintz mattress, and a chest of drawers 
 laden with china ornaments, and a bird in a cage. jNear 
 by two terrific roundabouts are whirling to the crash of the 
 steam -organ. On the one men and girls and children are 
 careering, with a horrible pitching motion, upon the backs 
 of gilded ostriches. On the other, with a refinement of 
 torture, they are plunging in little cars down and up a steep 
 ascent, and going round in a wheel at the same time. These 
 devilish machines are thronged all day long. Now, too, 
 the design of the tower with the outside staircase becomes 
 evident. It is not a) staircase, but a slide. You enter at 
 the top, sit on a sort of toboggan, and plunge madly round 
 and round to the bottom. This also is crowded. 'No 
 sooner does one set of dishevelled victims totter forth than 
 another rushes in. And all the while the swings are tossing 
 high in the haze of dust, and men are knocking down cocoa- 

 
 BANK HOLIDAY. 51 
 
 nuts, and shooting at rows of clay pipes, and boys and 
 girls fling confetti at one another, and policemen edge vigi- 
 lantly in and out of the press. 
 
 Here are hundreds of factory girls, all much of a size, 
 all burned by the sun, and all wearing their hair curled 
 upon the forehead ; loud, good-natured, simple girls, keep- 
 ing together in twos and threes. Here are a few blue- 
 jackets, conspicuously broad and smart, and a sprinkling 
 of scarlet tunics. • ,But most of the populace is made up 
 of families — father, mother and children. In a wide cir- 
 cumference outside the fair they sit on the ground in 
 groups, and eat out of paper bags, and are completely 
 happy. 
 
 As for the showmen they toil and rest not. They carry 
 an air of singular, tolerant detachment from the crowd 
 which they live by amusing. They are nomads all ; here 
 one day, fifty miles away the next, voyaging from fair to 
 fair all through broad England, and finishing the year with 
 the Goose Fair at Nottingham. They dwell in their vans, 
 and call no city their home. Their children sleep in per- 
 ambulators behind the canvas, wholly at peace in the midst 
 of the tumult. The more prosperous showmen own plant 
 worth thousands of pounds, employ troops of people, and 
 travel by train like lords or theatre people. The lesser 
 huddle canvas screens and properties in a cart or two, and 
 pad the hoof alongside the old grey horse and the family 
 van . 
 
 As the sun declines the noise waxes louder ; and 
 at nightfall it will be noisier still, and the naphtha lights 
 will be flaring, and couples will stroll beyond the tossing 
 radiance into the kindly dusk. But even now the families 
 are setting soberly homeward, beneath the heavy June 
 foliage that closes in the Flats, and along the sandy road. 
 So on foot, by omnibus and cart and train, back to the 
 great brick hive, whose cells are home. Beyond the vast 
 outer barrier of the teeming East, street and wall and fac- 
 tory, stagnant canal and tumbled desert of waste ground, 
 the westering sun fills with radiance the empty streets of 
 
 E 2
 
 52 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 the City. Channeled deep between the cliffs of carven 
 stone and blackened window, the asphalt roadways run 
 like lava, smooth and shining ; the approach of a solitary 
 hansom shatters the silence with a startling uproar ; and 
 the few passengers show conspicuous, like people in a 
 desert.
 
 FLEET STREET. 
 
 IX.— FLEET STREET. 
 
 " There she is — the great engine — she never sleeps. She has 
 her ambassadors in every quarter of the world — her couriers upon 
 every road. Her officers march along with armies, and her envoys 
 walk into statesmen's cabinets." 
 
 IN the heart of London, a street called Fleet Street 
 descends from West to East, revealing, piece by piece, the 
 towering majesty of Paul's. .High -piled and dreaming 
 upon the troubled heavens, diademed with the golden 
 Cross, the great grey dome rests light as a bubble yet firm 
 as mortised marble upon its inter-columned pedestal ; 
 slashed upon by the delicate black spire rising near at 
 hand ; and across the mighty carven portals, nearer yet 
 is drawn the dark bar of the railway bridge, joining the 
 sinuous double rank of houses ; and between them slides 
 the train, whose white smoke ever volleys and melts away 
 above the roaring tide of traffic that floods the deep- 
 grooved roadway from wall to wall. 
 
 No nobler prospect kindles the heart in any city, yet it 
 is but the splendid mark upon a strange, vast, invisible 
 entity, in whose central ganglion Fleet Street is entwined. 
 Its nerves are quivering day and night,, year in and year 
 out. The tall buildings that close in the main street and 
 the tributary lanes and alleys, are throbbing with the hum 
 of imprisoned engines. Put your hand on the wall ; it is 
 faintly warm ; and you shall feel the pulse of the world 
 beating. Through deep-sea cables crawling in primaeval 
 ooze, along thousands of miles of telegraph wire, messages 
 are flashing across sea and desert and mountain, by way 
 of lone outposts, far settlements, and the turmoil of all 
 populous cities, into the brain of the metropolis. Here,
 
 54 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 they are gathered up and sorted out and translated and 
 redacted by armies of patient men with tired eyes. And 
 presently there is a newspaper. 
 
 Man the mysterious and mutable and yet ever the same, 
 peers out of Fleet Street windows with a hundred faces ; 
 faces grave and faces foolish, faces devout and faces farci- 
 cal, leering, sagacious, knowing, hysterical, demure, but 
 never melancholy — except by accident. For this is the 
 Street of all the World ; in which men's every avatar finds 
 a voice and an expression. So he appeals to his fellows, 
 wheresoever they are, and receives a copper coin. (The 
 price of silver is not found in Fleet Street.) The way and 
 means thereto is called The Office. 
 
 The doorway of the office is blocked by light carts bear- 
 ing the large legend of their newspaper, and besieged by 
 newsboys and messengers and porters : the roadway is 
 blocked by vans laden with gigantic cylinders of paper, 
 five miles to the roll, and by other vans bringing arsenals 
 of ink. In and out the doorway, up and down the stair, 
 all sorts and conditions of people are passing all day long 
 and nearly all the night. The man with a paragraph to 
 sell may rub shoulders with a Cabinet Minister, and the 
 inventor of a hygienic boot may wait (all unconscious) 
 in the same room as the leader of armies . 
 
 They are all possessed with the same craving. They 
 all want to see the Editor. They all believe, with a con- 
 viction rooted like an instinct, that each of them is offering 
 the Editor the chance of his life. Thus they are content to 
 wait and watch the hands of the pale-faced, implacable 
 clock on the wall, and to call again and again. They depart 
 more in sorrow than in anger — sorrow for the Editor, who 
 is missing the chance of his life, because like the god of 
 the heathen, he is gone hunting, or peradventure he sleeps. 
 The spectacle is not without pathos, because they do not 
 understand. Listlessly gazing at the newspaper on the 
 table of the waiting room, they are but dimly aware that 
 they are but poor asymptotes, infringing upon the orbit of a 
 whole solar system, whose inner sweep and tumult and
 
 FLEET STREET. 55 
 
 inter-action is boiling all about them, unseen and un- 
 heard . 
 
 The system has its centre, calm amid the vortex like 
 the centre of a typhoon. Into that charmed circle, wafts 
 of the outer whirl come and go. Deep in the core of 
 things, approached by solemn corridors, is the room of 
 the Proprietor, whose frontier is guarded by a secretary 
 equipped with a miniature telephone exchange, and the 
 manners of a diplomatist. The Proprietor is so great a 
 man and yet so unostentatious, that many persons acquire 
 a small social reputation for knowing the world, because 
 they are accurately acquainted with his name. He is 
 greater than a Cabinet Minister, because he has his ringers 
 on the levers of the machine from which the Minister him- 
 self draws his power, and which the Minister fears, because 
 he cannot control it. It controls him. Moreover, Cabinets 
 come and Governments depart : an Amurath an Amuratn 
 succeeds ; but the Proprietor remains, with his fingers on 
 the keys. He sits in a quiet, airy room, deep -carpeted, 
 with fresh flowers on the table, and a silver cigar-box, and 
 presses buttons when he is so disposed. He is the Power 
 behind the Throne ; but he never boasts. He leaves that 
 luxury to Cabinet Ministers. He is the sedate and enthusi- 
 astic champion of causes, lost or found, and he will spend 
 arduous days — and even risk money — to gain them. . . . 
 I cannot take you into his room, because you have no 
 appointment. 
 
 In another centre of the whirl, the Editor sits behind 
 a vast table deep in papers and proofs, which also fill a 
 huge waste-basket and overflow upon the floor. This is 
 the man (pitied of the wandering 'stars in the waiting- 
 room) who every day has to make a new newspaper out of 
 his head and what God sends him. Every day, except 
 Saturday. He is the captain of the ship. He is respon- 
 sible for all. Hit is Clin! of the Staff. He is a statesman, 
 a politician, a critic, a man of letters, an organiser, and a 
 disciplinarian. He works the most of the day, and half 
 the night. All day long, and half the night, news is pour-
 
 56 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 ing in by letters and cable and wire from all over the world, 
 and the reporters are coming in and out with their versions 
 of what they have seen and heard, and books are tumbling 
 in from publishers, and the wandering stars are sending in 
 precious contributions, and men and women from all the 
 world are trying to see him. (I cannot take you into his 
 room, because you have no appointment.) 
 
 He sees the news, he sees the reporters' versions, he 
 scrutinises the books, he reads the contributions, and he 
 talks with a selected number of the wandering stars . Then 
 he goes home to dinner. And after dinner, he (luckless !) 
 must turn out, for the Event is approaching. The ship 
 must be steered into harbour— a hew harbour, every night, 
 and always uncharted. At ten o'clock or so he takes the 
 wheel. The leader writers are busy writing, writing, each 
 in his room, and as he .finishes, slip by slip, he presses a 
 button without looking up, and a boy takes the wet slip 
 to the composing rooms. In other rooms, the reporters 
 and the writers on particular subjects are writing, writing, 
 and pressing buttons. In a wide chamber, a company of 
 men sit beside green-shaded lamps, minutely investigating 
 sheaves of press telegrams written on slippery, transparent 
 paper, that come and still come. These are the sub- 
 editors, who comb out the tangled news for the printer. 
 The chief sub -editor sits quite buried in paper. The whole 
 mass of news is passed through him, and he begins to 
 arrange the nightly Chinese puzzle which is the fitting of 
 too much matter to too little space. Next door, is the 
 composing room, where busy men in shirt sleeves stand 
 at desks of type, or clatter on linotype machines . Near by, 
 is the foundry, where lean, sweating artisans are melting 
 metal in furnaces, ready for the casting. In the bowels of 
 the great building, the huge printing machines stand oily, 
 black and silent, waiting while the engineer studies his 
 switch -board. . . . 
 
 The Editor sits at his table serene and busy, steering 
 the ship. Men come and ask questions, and go, and come 
 again. Proofs thicken. The atmosphere is tense, like the
 
 FLEET STREET. 57 
 
 atmosphere before a thunderstorm. There is a hurry 
 toward. The stir in the composing room thickens. Men 
 come in and measure spaces on the type, and declaim, and 
 swiftly discuss, and run out . Amid the turmoil, the Master- 
 Printer moves predominant and calm. He glances at the 
 clock. It is the Hour. For good or ill, the paper is com- 
 plete. He spreads his arms, and there falls a great and 
 sudden peace. The paper is put to bed. The ship is in 
 harbour. In that moment, all the labour and hurrv and 
 strife, are dead. The world glances at the result next day, 
 and throws it aside. It is dead, so soon as born. For this 
 is the Street of all the World ; in whose bazaars the people 
 care for nothing, but to hear or to see some new thing. 
 
 The Editor lets drop his blue pencil, and gets wearily 
 out of his chair. As he passes down the stair, there rises 
 from deep within the building the tremendous roar and 
 clatter of the machines, printing off.
 
 58 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 X.— FREE SPEECH. 
 
 ' Be blovved ! ' we ses to 'em (just like that) and we likewise adds, 
 
 ' Not me I ' 
 And ' Wot do you think ? ' as a haf terthought, as plain as' plain 
 could be." 
 
 The holding of political meetings is part of that 
 romantic fiction, the British Constitution. These assem- 
 blies are called public, but that is merely an aspect of the 
 Great Democratic Joke. A public meeting is presum- 
 ably open to the public ; but the political meeting, as at 
 present usually arranged, is not. Admission is by ticket 
 only. You may, of course, apply for a ticket, and you 
 may get it. On the other hand, you may not. If you are 
 the sort of person who (however respectable) is notori- 
 ously in disagreement with the politics of the conveners 
 of this free and open assembly, the chances are that the 
 committee will inform you politely that the tickets are all 
 taken. Again, the holding of a public meeting presup- 
 poses an expression of public opinion. This is called 
 " free speech," and it is generally described as the pecu- 
 liar privilege of Britons. The privilege, of course, is not 
 supposed to include disorder and obstruction ; but there 
 is in this matter a certain undefined margin of licence. . . . 
 
 Most people accept the existence of the political meeting 
 as a matter of course. And yet, a little investigation of 
 its origin is not without profit. The political meeting 
 proper must here be distinguished from election gather- 
 ings, concerning which there is hardly even the pretence 
 of an illusion left. The origin of the assembly in question 
 is more recondite. The Government of the day bring in 
 a Bill, whose real object is carefully disguised, and whose 
 actual effects are studiously ignored. It is attacked by the
 
 FREE SPEECH. 59 
 
 Opposition in the usual way. At this point Ministers be- 
 come aware of a kind of necessity urging them to go down 
 to their constituents and hold a meeting. Parliamentary 
 discussion, you see, does not suffice. The constituency 
 does not trust its Minister, and the Minister entertains dis- 
 agreeablesuspicions of the .constituency. So 1 down he goes 
 to talk them round. He is paid a handsome salary for 
 conducting the business of the country ; but that can wait ; 
 and, after employing the clerks in his office to arrange 
 statistics for him, down he goes. 
 
 Down he goes to address a free and an open public 
 meeting, carefully packed with his own adherents, ready 
 to declare at the top of his pipe that he stands for free 
 speech, surrounded by persons adorned with rosettes, called 
 " stewards," who are one and all spoiling for a fight, be- 
 cause some of the tickets, you see, may have gone to the 
 wrong people ^however respectable), in spite of all pre- 
 caution. 
 
 It is a sultry evening, the sunset reddening the stucco 
 house -fronts, the passengers dragging weary feet along the 
 frowsy streets. A crowd is concentrating about the side 
 door of the town hall, and forming into a queue. About 
 the door are not more than twenty policemen, under an 
 inspector. Ticket-holders are admitted one by one — those 
 without tickets are seized by the arm and turned right about 
 face — old men and young men, girls and women, they are 
 turned away like malefactors. Why? Our Minister is a 
 bold man ; but he is not taking any risks. It is of singular 
 importance — to him — that the meeting should be described 
 next day in the Press as enthusiastic and unanimous. 
 Again, there are the missionaries of women's suffrage to 
 be reckoned with. 
 
 A journalist comes to the door and presents a Press 
 ticket. But it is not the committee's ticket, and the police- 
 men elbow him amiably into the kennel. And, meanwhile, 
 the crowd thickens, and the ticket -holders are being passed 
 through the narrow door with the speed of a conjuring 
 trick.
 
 60 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 Within the big, garish hall the organ is pealing frivolous 
 tunes, like an elephant dancing the mazurka. The organist 
 sits below the platform, labouring at stop and pedal with 
 I -don't -care -what -I -play-so -long-as - 1 'm-paid expression, 
 until the sweat trickles down his bald forehead. On either 
 side of him sit the reporters, already beginning to write 
 of the meeting which has not begun. The hall is nearly 
 filled. The front row is occupied by solid burgesses and 
 their wives, glistening with inexplicable satisfaction. Here, 
 is a stout, bearded man in spectacles, wearing a perpetual 
 smile ; next him, a matron with a face like a horse ; then 
 a pair of comfortable old ladies, settled down for the even- 
 ing ; then an old, shrunken gentleman in black, grasping a 
 staff, and turning lack-lustre eyes on the empty platform ; 
 next him, a brother ancient, with a long chin -beard, and 
 a look as one who thrives on right brimstone doctrine. 
 Along the wall stands a row of weary, pallid men in cor- 
 duroys. All down the centre gangway, hovering in door- 
 ways, and sauntering outside in the corridors, are stewards, 
 decent looking men enough, and rather suggestive of a 
 Young Men's Christian Association — with exceptions. One 
 exception was a "huge gross man with pendulous cheeks 
 and a head like a doormat. He suggested the prize-ring. 
 I hasten to add that he took no part in the subsequent 
 fighting. 
 
 The platform began to fill. The first to arrive was a 
 gentleman in an Eton jacket and broad collar. His age 
 might have been anything from 15 to 40. The audience 
 clapped him, and he blushed. Then came a pair of black - 
 coated persons of some religious persuasion. Then came 
 the Church of England, tall and black, and extremely dig- 
 nified . Then a dozen or so of the portly people who always 
 ornament platforms . 
 
 The organist put his whole strength and intellect into 
 a last tremendous chord, and departed. A white-headed 
 chairman took his place behind the table, to great applause, 
 rising in volume as the Cabinet Minister entered and sat 
 down.
 
 FREE SPEECH. 61 
 
 The chairman was the kind of estimable person who, 
 naturally incapable of independent thought, learns a series 
 of statements by heart, and delivers them one after the 
 other, like shooting stones on a roadway. He was suc- 
 ceeded by a frock -coated gentleman in a circular collar, 
 who was addicted to the corkscrew type of gesture, which 
 consists in writhing from the waist upwards at the begin- 
 ning of every sentence, as though his eloquence were stored 
 in his midriff. " This cur-rce," he said, " slays more 
 victims in a year than by repor-ert were " (writhe)/' slain 
 in the South African war-er." It does not matter what he 
 meant. To adopt an expressive figure, it was " hot-air." 
 
 Then arose an alderman, red and of a full habit, and 
 extremely important. He used the snatching gesture, 
 which resembles one who tries to catch flies. He told a 
 story which, he said, was an allegory, and the audience 
 believed him, because the story was wholly unintelligible. 
 He said that he would not explain it, because it explained 
 itself (here he was mistaken), and that " in view of the 
 Rich Treat " — he meant the Cabinet Minister, poor man 
 — they were all expecting, he would not detain them 
 (cheers). He would only add that " Boy Number Two 
 in the Allegory sat down to ponder on the mat." Presum- 
 ably he meant matter. He said mat. Here a baby in 
 the assembly became audibly unwell. Its sufferings were 
 lost in the applause which greeted the Rich Treat. 
 
 The Cabinet Minister arranged on a sloping desk the 
 typewritten document compiled by Government civil ser- 
 vants, and began. He talked with a fatal fluency, loudly, 
 and entirely without signification. It was hot air from a 
 megaphone. " His Majesty's Opposition did the best it was 
 incapable of," said the orator, and paused for the clappings 
 of approval. Now came the expected. I am particular 
 as to this point. There is some misconception concerning 
 similar occurrences. I will try to relate exactly what 
 happened. 
 
 As the clapping died away, there rose a thin, plaintive 
 voice, like a child's, from the body of the hall. It said
 
 62 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 perhaps six words, of which the word " women " was alone 
 distinguishable. Instantly half the audience rose from 
 their seats, and there was an uproar. The lady who had 
 spoken was silent. Some six stewards were hauling her 
 out of the hall, while the orator on the platform bellowed 
 to the people to look his way. " She's out," he said, and 
 went on where he left off. More megaphone, then another 
 interruption . A man had risen, and had put a simple ques- 
 tion. In a moment a dozen stewards were on him, he was 
 hauled, dragged, pushed, and beaten out of the hall, hurled 
 along the corridor by six men, two on each arm, two on 
 each leg, one pulling his hair, and another catching and 
 tearing as he could. Now up, now down, breathless, 
 strangling and torn, he was shot through the door and 
 thrown down the steps into the arms of friendly policemen. 
 
 Here the Cabinet Minister made a Boeotian and a quite 
 unpardonable reference to the incident. And the audience 
 laughed. They laughed. Kindly remark that circum- 
 stance. The orator went on in a kind of bellow, very 
 monotonous to hear. Then came another thin, plaintive 
 voice. Again the rush of stewards, the rising of the audi- 
 ence, which began to clamour, the ineffectual roar of the 
 Cabinet Minister, " Look this way ! Sit down ! " and then 
 he shouted, " Chuck her out ! " She was not chucked out, 
 but led out. The stewards had not yet forgotten the 
 decencies, though the Cabinet Minister had. He resumed 
 the monotonous bellow. The faces of the front row were 
 uplifted towards him with a fascinated, silly smile. He 
 was appealing to sentiment, rank, luscious, unashamed. 
 
 Then another man began a question, but before he could 
 finish it he was seized and hurled forth, neck and crop. 
 Then, after an interval, another lady said something, and all 
 the stewards lurking in the corridors made a rush to the 
 door nearest "her, like hounds after a rabbit . Another man 
 was dragged out, his heels slithering along the mosaic 
 pavement. By this time the stewards were fighting-fit, 
 and began to quarrel among themselves in the corridor. 
 The Cabinet Minister jibed at them, and jeered at the
 
 FREE SPEECH. 63 
 
 women ; and when the front row obediently laughed, he 
 said ; " If you've come here for a grinning match, you'd 
 better go outside," and the smile was struck from their 
 faces, to be succeeded by a stony bewilderment. 
 
 Truly, they were better outside. As the ladies were 
 turned out — for ladies they were, and their dignity, as they 
 wore haled along by the representatives of the Young Men's 
 Christian Association and the rest, was not inconspicuous 
 — they were received with cheers by the crowd without. 
 Each in turn, these girls began to harangue the crowd, and 
 the policemen gathered among the audience. At the same 
 time, a roaring, strident Socialist mounted a box, and the 
 two voices intermingled. . . . 
 
 The writer desires to express no political opinion. He 
 is scrupulous to set down exactly what occurred — what is 
 occurring every day — in a " public meeting," organised by 
 politicians, and regulated by hired " stewards." Observe : 
 there was no question of disturbance. Those, whether men 
 or women, who interrupted the speaker, were not requested 
 to be quiet, or wait until he had concluded, or to leave 
 the hall. They were simply seized — in the case of the 
 man, badly mauled — and flung out, while the orator of the 
 evening permitted himself to use a licence for which he 
 would be caned in decent society. 
 
 But " free speech " is doubtless the peculiar privilege 
 of Britons.
 
 64 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 XI.— WOMAN'S SUFFRAGE. 
 
 " That thou art blam'd shall not be thy defect, 
 For slander's mark was ever yet the Fair." 
 
 PROLOGUE.— WHAT THE POLICEMAN SAID. 
 
 "I'M afraid," said the Policeman, " there'll be trouble 
 on Tuesday. It's the crowd, you see. Where there's a 
 big crowd, there's always a lot of roughs, you never know 
 what will happen. Do the best you may, some of the 
 women may get hurt . It's not their fault. No. People say 
 they oughtn't to use these methods — but what else can they 
 do, I ask you? I 'old that the rate -payers among the 
 women ought to have the vote. They pay rates and taxes, 
 same as the men — why shouldn't they be represented ? 
 Why, there's many a widow or a single woman living over 
 the ground floor of a man who gets his money dishonest," 
 — I forbear to quote the policeman's exact description of 
 this ruffian's means of support — " and he has a vote and 
 she hasn't. Where's the justice of that? " 
 
 He settled his neck in his collar, and pushed his helmet 
 from his forehead, and stared across the sunlit space to 
 the intersecting roads by the Houses of Parliament, which 
 have been, and will be, a field of battle. 
 
 ,,; It ain't altogether pleasant for us. Take me, for in- 
 stance. I come off duty at two. Then I goes and has a 
 bit of dinner. Well, when there's a demonstration, I 
 don't come off, and I don't get no dinner. The wife, she 
 says, ' When will you be in? ' and ' I don't know,' I says — 
 and it's cooking something can be heated up any time, or 
 getting something cold, or the wife she don't know what
 
 WOMAN'S SUFFRAGE. 65 
 
 to be at. Then there's men drawn off from the other divi- 
 sions all over London, and them that's left has to do two 
 beats instead of one. Well, we don't complain. The 
 women are allright. They don't really mean to give no 
 trouble. 
 
 ' '■ Of course, if you don't go away, Miss,' I says, ' I 
 must take you inside.' 
 
 I want to go inside,' she says, ' and I won't go away.' 
 
 " Then we goes along quite comfortable together. 
 People say, ' they needn't go to prison if they don't want 
 to.' Well, but they have an objec*. Supposing they did 
 pay the fine — what would people say then ? They'd say, 
 O, the women was only pretending — anyone can pay a 
 fine.' That's how it would go." 
 
 He cocked a grey eye at the pinnacles of Westminster, 
 the Palace which a white -souled Government appeared to 
 regard as a mediaeval fortalice, from which they could 
 safely harass and oppress his Majesty's lieges. 
 
 ' And what was the beginning of all the trouble ? There 
 was some Liberal members what had promised the women 
 this and that at the election, and when they got in, they 
 did nothing. Prob'ly they found they couldn't. Then, 
 when some of the women came to see them, why couldn't 
 the members say so, civil . But not they. The women, they 
 sends cards in, and the members, they won't receive them. 
 Nat 'rally the women thought they wasn't treated fair — and 
 no more they was. So they took and held a little Parlyment 
 of their own, so to speak. That's the beginning of the 'ole 
 trouble. 
 
 Mr. Asquith, they say he's a obstinate man, and when 
 he says no, he means no. He could end the 'ole trouble, 
 but he won't. So there it is. But it was them Liberal 
 members that began it. An' who suffers along of them? 
 Why, the policemen, first and last. . . . I'm afraid there'll 
 be more trouble on Tuesday, I am indeed." 
 
 He smiled, shook his head, and stood to attention, salut- 
 ing a bony, weazened, death's head of a legislator, who was 
 tottering into the Palace. Outside the gates, a lady scarfed 
 
 L.P.L.S. F.
 
 66 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 in white, green and purple, was selling the suffrage news- 
 paper, hawking papers in the gutter, like any lagged little 
 newsboy, perfectly cheerful, self-possessed and dignified. 
 
 LEADERSHIP. 
 
 A clear voice speaking in a quiet room, filled with black- 
 attired, hard-faced working women, every head turned to- 
 wards the figure On the platform. She stands perfectly 
 still, save for an occasional gesture of the hand ; clad in 
 lilac-hued silk, relieved upon the dead green of the bare 
 wall. Her face is olive -hued, square, dark -eyed. The 
 minutes go by, and she never hesitates, or pauses for a 
 word. " If you went to a shop, and bought something 
 and paid for it, and if whatever you bought was not sent 
 to you, and you went to inquire why it was not sent, what 
 would you say — what would anyone say ? — if you were in- 
 formed that you could not have the goods for which you 
 had paid, until the salesman was satisfied that a majority 
 of women in the country wished you to have it ? . . . That 
 is precisely what the Prime Minister has said." 
 
 "■ Women in the Government service — elementary school 
 teachers, Post Office clerks, typewriters — who pass exactly 
 the same examinations as the men pass, who have exactly 
 the same qualifications as the men have, who do exactly 
 the same work as the men do, are paid less. Outside the 
 Government service, women doing the same work as men 
 are paid less than men — women in factories, in workshops, 
 everywhere. Women who work at home are allowed to 
 earn a shilling for sixteen hours' toil. They are not 
 represented." 
 
 There is a stir among the listening women, and a murmur 
 rises, and the blank faces kindle. They know . . . 
 
 The quiet voice goes on for an hour, kindly, equable, 
 musical, eloquent ; and when it ceased, the whole of those 
 stolid women started to their feet, and cried out, and waved 
 their arms, old and young and middle-aged. One among 
 them turns to the rest, and declares that she is proud to
 
 WOMAN'S SUFFRAGE. 67 
 
 hear a woman speak as the lady has spoken — proud she is, 
 and the lady tells truth. And then everyone joins the 
 Union, and pays a shilling if she has it, and pins on the 
 green, white and purple ribbon. And so all disperse into 
 the hot, gritty, miserable streets of the grim wilderness 
 south the river, which is their prison and their children's 
 prison. But on the second day following, they march to 
 Hyde Park to show the world what they mean. Just that. 
 
 PROCESSIONAL". 
 
 A week before, a grave and stately pageant had filed 
 between thousands of respectful spectators, banking the 
 streets from Westminster to the Albert Hall. Women of 
 every class of society walked in fours beneath' the banners 
 blazoned with the symbols of their craft ; doctors of learn- 
 ing, doctors of medicine in their robes, graduates in cap 
 and gown, nurses in uniform, writers, painters, wealthy 
 ladies, titled ladies, factory girls, middle-class wives and 
 spinsters, collegians, teachers — thousands of women, quietly 
 determined to show the world what they mean. Just that. 
 
 The serried ranks of faces went by, impassive or serene 
 and determined, or tired and smiling, beneath the rich- 
 hued banners ; went by, and went by, and the banners 
 swayed past in the dusty wind that blow out of the grey 
 London sky, and the clock on Saint Martin's steeple marked 
 three-quarters ere they had all passed. 
 
 The good - humoured, lazy, curious English crowd, 
 watching by thousands all along the way, knew the women 
 were right. But thr politicians Up Above ("gabbling like 
 daws in a steeple) have the crowd and the wor/ien alike in 
 a net. 
 
 REBELLION. 
 
 A grrat hall, rrammcd from floor to roof with women, 
 to whom a woman is speaking from the platform with a 
 little, tired bn-ak every now and then in her resonant voice, 
 
 F 2
 
 68 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 but with a controlled fervour that lights sparks in the tense 
 atmosphere. Right and left of her, sit the women who are 
 going in a deputation to see the Prime Minister. There 
 are thirteen of them ; and each is ready to go to prison 
 like a malefactor. 
 
 Outside, lined against the railings by the police, is the 
 crowd, good-humoured, lazily curious, but with a sprink- 
 ling of the ugliest ruffians the great city spues out of her 
 festering deeps — where the politicians have never gone, and 
 never will go, and which they pretend do not exist. Out 
 into the sunshine and the watching eyes come the ladies, 
 and the policemen escort them through the breathless, 
 blazing streets, alive with watching eyes and the scurrying 
 mob. Men and women gape and run and struggle, and 
 concentrate in a heaving mass outside the door of the 
 Palace of Westminster. The women of the deputation in 
 their bright dresses, are borne through the multitude which 
 is struggling and craning to see ; there is a brief pause ; 
 and then they are borne back ; while the wolves from the 
 slums fight and shove and grope for pockets, and the burly 
 policemen keep them on the run. 
 
 Back again through the blazing streets and the watch- 
 ing eyes and the scurrying mob, to the hall. Refused ! 
 The audience was refused. 
 
 The women packed together in the stifling heat, hearken 
 with a fervid determination to the girl on the platform, 
 who talks to them, steadily, evenly, logically, in her youth- 
 ful treble. She is dressed in a straight gown of brown 
 holland, and she is thin to emaciation, save for her rosy 
 childish face, the brown hair twisted a-top. . . . What 
 is going to happen next ? 
 
 Whatever it may be, says the slight, passionate figure 
 on the platform, it will be the fault of the Prime Minister. 
 Let us all remember that . When a Prime Minister is hated 
 as this man is hated, it is time he took counsel with himself.
 
 WOMAN'S SUFFRAGE. 69 
 
 DEMONSTRATION. 
 
 Three hours later. The sun is going down in a red 
 conflagration behind the square new Government offices 
 in Parliament Square. People are massed along the pave- 
 ments, and across the roadways, and under the trees, and 
 the crowd is thickening every moment. The police are 
 drawn across the roadway opposite Saint Margaret's 
 Church, and across the road at the corner of Palace Yard, 
 opposite Whitehall . Viewed from high up in the House 
 of Commons, the crowd appears as a dense, moving, 
 speckled mass on two sides of the Square, flooding up 
 Whitehall and behind the trees to Westminster Bridge. 
 Omnibuses, covered vans, carts and cabs, half-submerged 
 in the living sea, plough slowly through its eddies, swung 
 end -on and cross -wise, and the " Urh — urh — urh " of the 
 mob rises all about them. 
 
 Palace Yard, nearer hand, is dotted all over with men and 
 women in evening dress, and members are congregating 
 at the corner gate and lining the railings. In the House 
 of Lords, a whilom Viceroy of India is warning her present 
 rulers of disaster threatening (first of all) women and 
 children. In the House of Commons, they are dis- 
 cussing an Old Age Pension Bill upon whose provi- 
 sions the women who keep the home are not consulted. 
 Somewhere in a Committee Room, honourable members 
 are debating whether a woman should be sent to prison 
 for giving a spoonful of liquor to a child, or not. It is 
 of these things that the women are telling the people. 
 
 The reporters of the Press Gallery are looking out of 
 the windows, and are using opprobrious language. Nothing 
 scandalises them in the House — they are past all that long 
 ago ; but that a crowd should dare to assemble outside 
 it, shocks them extremely. The division bell rings, but 
 as the members are congregated out of hearing in Palace 
 Yard, a policeman shouts " Division " at the top of his 
 voice. It is pleasing to behold stout old gentlemen, who
 
 70 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 have not run a yard for ten years, trotting apoplectically 
 across the yard with coat-tails flying, to vote for or against 
 something — they don't know what, but a vote is a vote, 
 and party is party, and nothing else matters. 
 
 Amid the oscillating, cheering, speckled swarm in the 
 streets a separate stream flows swiftly in one direction, 
 gathering size, and presently a blue -clad woman is visible, 
 being led by two policemen. The stream checks at the 
 mouth of the dark lane leading to Scotland Yard. Mounted 
 policemen edge sideways through the ferment, and a few 
 of the crowd groan loudly but without malice. A noise 
 of cheering runs up Whitehall. Members of Parliament, 
 messenger-boys and motor-car drivers are clinging like cats 
 to the high railings inside Palace Yard. Outside them, 
 the police are blandly picking people from their hand- 
 hold ; youths in straw hats, wearing a vacuous grin, are 
 being pushed along ; girls are sauntering and laughing ; 
 a woman carrying a baby is strolling as unconcerned as 
 though she were alone in a desert. 
 
 The line of police at the corner of Palace Yard, opposite 
 Whitehall, is suddenly bent inward, with laughter and 
 shouting. The policemen each embrace some five or seven 
 persons, and shove with all their might. , The impact 
 checks, wavers, is broken, and men are sent flying into 
 the retreating mass, the policeman's open hand set between 
 their shoulders, propelling them with the force of a piston. 
 They stagger, recover, look back with a grin, and are lost 
 in the throng. A girl, pressed by a mounted policeman 
 in the thick of the crowd, sets hand on his bridle, and 
 strokes the horse's nose, while the officer smiles benignly. 
 And all the while, the eddies in the tide are sweeping 
 hither and thither, and women one by one are being 
 escorted by policemen into the dark alley leading to 
 Scotland Yard. 
 
 Lights glittered suddenly in the dusk, and the trees and 
 ponderous buildings darkened upon the sky, and the sea of 
 faces shone lighter. The multitude began to ebb away. 
 Members sauntered back to the House, with a shrug of their
 
 WOMAN'S SUFFRAGE. 71 
 
 dignified shoulders. A crowd, they said, is better fun than 
 the Old Age Pensions Bill, anyway. 
 
 Next morning, an excited dairyman, who discharged 
 pails of water upon the crowd beneath his windows, was 
 fined ten shillings. But between twenty or thirty women 
 went to prison. They had shown the country what they 
 meant. Just that. 
 
 Since the occurrence of the events described, and of other events, 
 and of their consequences, the Home Secretary, who is and remains 
 responsible for the treatment of Englishwomen in prison, has been 
 appointed to be Governor General of United South Africa. One 
 knows not which to admire the most — the reward of services per- 
 formed, or the compliment to South Africa. And a peerage? . . .
 
 72 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 XII.— ORATORS. 
 
 " His reasons are two grains of wheat hid in two bushels of chaff ; 
 you shall seek all day ere you find them ; and when you have found 
 them they are not worth the search." 
 
 ■■'• PRAY talk as much as you please, ladies and gentle- 
 men," says the Spirit of Liberty, in this age of grace. 
 " Here in the centre of our great metropolis is a nice open 
 space, to which there is easy access from all parts, and 
 where the incorruptible policeman is specially detailed to 
 see fair play and to prevent bloodshed. Talk away and 
 be happy — so long," adds the Spirit, but in an undertone, 
 " as you don't, my children, proceed to action." The im- 
 plied condition is perfectly understood by the Hyde Park 
 orator. 
 
 Behold him now, in a state of beaming satisfaction, set- 
 ting up his little rostrum under the trees, hard by the green 
 lawns whereon the perennial loafer lies sleeping, face down- 
 wards. The little old gentleman, white-haired, with a mild 
 blue eye, who is making so passionate an oration, is a 
 sound Constitutionalist. " Your Radicals," he says, waving 
 a fragile white hand, '-' your Radicals " — withering empha- 
 sis — " what are they doing now? What are your Radicals 
 doing — them that used to hit straight from the shoulder 
 before the election? Ah ! but that was before the elec- 
 tion I Now, all they can do is to excuse themselves for 
 all their actions by hiding behind the example of Mr. Bal- 
 four. Of Mr. Balfour ! whom once they were wont to hit 
 straight from the shoulder. Now it's Mr. Balfour did this 
 — why shouldn't we? My friends, are not we Tories to 
 hit straight from the shoulder in our turn? " 
 
 All the while the little old gentleman, with a radiant
 
 ORATORS. 73 
 
 satisfaction, is delivering these impassioned sentiments, a 
 gentleman leaning against the railings behind the orator 
 is darkly taking notes. Presently, he will arise and 
 destroy the Constitution. He has a very tall hat, and a very 
 short coat and a good deal of torso in his waistcoat. None 
 besides himself appears the least interested in the little old 
 gentleman. The group of spectators listen and gaze with 
 a wooden stolidity. Here are shop assistants, dandy and 
 straw-hatted ; nursemaids, three or four vague young 
 women, a soldier or two, a bluejacket in his No. I rig, 
 a sprinkling of the loafer, slouching, smeary, and languid. 
 
 Under the next tree a young man with extraordinarily 
 neat hair and immaculate linen, is preaching a religious dis- 
 course to another wholly stolid audience. Upon the ros- 
 trum, pallid fervour, perspiration, cries, entreaties. Round 
 about it, a dead wall of incurious faces. These hot gos- 
 pellers will go at it, watch and watch on till the shades 
 of night are falling, with the same unabated zeal, enthu- 
 siasm, and enjoyment. 
 
 Wedged between this group of religionists and another 
 gathering which is frankly atheistical, a grey-headed gen- 
 tleman in a straw hat is delivering his soul on the subject 
 of social democracy. He has a merry twist of features, 
 and a salient nose which holds the attention. The sun- 
 light illumines the tip of it, as he wags his head, and it 
 exercises a sort of fascination. This orator has it upon 
 him to defend Mr. John Burns from the aspersions of his 
 enemies. " Mr. John Burns," he cries, " is to my mind 
 — er-rer — the same John Burns as he was — er-rer — when he 
 led the — er-rer — dock strike. I don't consider, in my 
 opinion, mind you, that — er-rer — he has done so badly. I 
 think he's done — er-rer — very well." Follows a catalogue 
 of the benefits bestowed by Mr. Burns upon an ungrateful 
 nation. " Now 1 hear," continued the speaker, confiden- 
 tially, " that this Gover'ment has arranged to hold an 
 autumn session. What docs that mean? What — er-rer 
 — does it mean? It means that instead of dropping the 
 Gover'ment Bills into the — er-rer— waste-paper basket, like
 
 74 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 what Mr. Balfour would have done, an — er-rer— slaughter 
 of the innocents, if you like, the Gover'ment will continue 
 their labours and — er-rer — pass those Bills, which are un- 
 doubtedly, if you like, in my opinion, an — er-rer — benefit 
 to the nation." Pause. Perspiration. Audience utterly 
 unmoved. " Now why," pursues the orator, with undi- 
 minished cheer, " did Mr. Balfour yearly drop all Gover'- 
 ment legislation? Because the Tories didn't like work. 
 Well, nobody — er-rer— does. But some of us has to work, 
 nevertheless. But not your M.P. Tory. He wants to 
 get a bit o' shooting, and — er-rer — hunting, and— er-rer — 
 card -playing. And it being so as he is able to, he — er-rer 
 — if you like, does. Now the present Government " — etc., 
 etc. This jovial optimist is wound up to go on for an hour 
 or two. 
 
 The next man is a cadaverous individual, with a face 
 like a discontented camel. He is possessed by a violent 
 objection to the Bible. He points his virulent observa- 
 tions by holding up to execration a little worn volume 
 bound in what booksellers call " paste-grain circuit." He 
 is so close to our Democratic friend that the two speeches 
 become intermingled. " The Irish tenants — er-rer — cottage 
 bill — the most contradictory, the most immoral book — four 
 millions spent on the land and where — er-rer — here, in this 
 book, you find authority for — a race of tenant farmers — 
 er-rer — do you want authority for murder, it's in the book — 
 and where — er-rer — could you spend money better — for 
 polygamy, in this book — in our overcrowded centres — for 
 celibacy, in this book, for luxury, in this book, for asceti- 
 cism, in this book — er-rer — the cause of true progress " 
 — and so on. 
 
 It's confusing, but the audience doesn't mind in the 
 least. No one betrays the faintest emotion, except a dark- 
 visaged man who stands below the anti -Bible man, and 
 grins to himself, and says " Good again 1 " at intervals. 
 
 But on the skirts of the assembly a party of foreign gen- 
 tlemen are wandering, with amazement depicted on their 
 amiable countenances. One is a pallid, spectacled person
 
 ORATORS. 7 5 
 
 with a fluffy brown beard, wearing a Panama hat in a state 
 of advanced degeneration, and a grey morning suit that 
 would appear to have been made for another — and a thinner 
 — gentleman. He looks and peers and lingers, and strokes 
 his downy beard with fat white lingers. Ahead of him 
 marches bravely, his vast rotundity nobly projecting, a 
 short gentleman tastefully attired in a round grey hat, like 
 a pork -pie with a rim, and a grey frogged surtout. He 
 carries a slender cane with a solid silver handle. " You 
 can tell an Englishman a mile long," as I heard a guileless 
 German youth observe the other day, at the International 
 Congress of Architects. He meant, of course, a mile off. 
 Conversely, you can recognise the foreigner in Hyde Park 
 with an equal certainty. The little party led by the ma- 
 jestic person in the frogged surtout were amazedly noting 
 the institutions of English liberty — let us hope to the profit 
 of civilisation. 
 
 The anti -Biblical fanatic was flanked on the side remote 
 from the democrat, by another religious assembly. " When 
 I was a youngster," cries a bright -faced youth, with hair 
 well oiled and brushed back from his azure brow, " I, too, 
 was unhappy. (Of course, I'm still young, I know.) Now 
 I'm as happy as a skylark. Why? " etc. Indeed, he 
 looked supremely happy as he talked away to the ring of 
 wooden faces. 
 
 The next stand was occupied by a brown -faced gen- 
 tleman in a hard hat, jammed over his eyes. He had no 
 pulpit. 'He just stood on the common ground, like the 
 philosopher he was. " I'm only an ordinary working man," 
 he said. " But I've read Schopenhauer and Spencer, and 
 Bellows, and Karl Marx, and Brown, and — and Ruskin, and 
 all of them. And why? How was it that I, a common 
 working man " — he had an indescribable relish for the 
 phrase — "was able to read all these great philosophers? 
 Because I chose. So could you, if you chose. And what 
 did I find, alter years and years ot study? Simply this : 
 That honesty was the best policy I ' Tin i startling con- 
 clusion so disgusted the tall policeman at my side that he
 
 76 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 said he could not stand no more of that lot ; and he re- 
 turned to the little old Constitutionalist over the way. 
 
 But it presently appeared that our philosophic student 
 had made a tremendous discovery, to which the maxim con- 
 cerning honesty was but the threshold. " I go to all these 
 different sects and parties," he said, " and I ask them : 
 What is the cause of the poverty of this country ? They 
 all give me an answer of their own. I go to the Socialist, 
 and he says, Unearned increment. There's no such thing. 
 His answer is, therefore, what is called in algebra an un- 
 known quantity. It is, therefore, nothing. I go to the 
 religious party, and he says, God ! Another unknown 
 quantity. I go to the " — and so on. No one, it seemed, 
 had any solution that did not involve that fatal unknown 
 quantity. Now came the discovery. " All poverty is due 
 to the simple fact that the banks control the currency. They 
 can stop all sales . (A sale, as I have explained, is only 
 a means of disengaging capital.) They can ruin any man. 
 They can actually get up and ruin any tradesman at any 
 moment. They can? They do. Because they control 
 the currency. Release the currency, and you and I, my 
 friends, where we have one sovereign in our pockets," slap- 
 ping that part of his person, " we shall have four. That's 
 where I want the wealth of this country to be — not in land, 
 — or houses, or banks — but in our pockets. And why is 
 it not ? " Here a solemn 'man in a soft hat stepped forward 
 and removed a noxious insect from the orator's low collar. 
 "Thank you. Why is it not? Because the banks con- 
 trol the currency." 
 
 Just behind the speaker, a bearded, filthy tramp, with a 
 face like putty, was secretly eating crumbs, which he con- 
 veyed from the recesses of his rags. Beside him a brother 
 loafer gazed at vacancy. A coloured gentleman, with his 
 hat on one side and an incredibly white collar, intruded 
 into the circle, thrust out a dusky chin, and departed. 
 Perhaps he was looking for Mr. Keir Hardie. For the 
 rest — stony, absolute, hopeless indifference. The philoso- 
 phic one removed his hard hat, mopped his brow, jammed
 
 ORATORS. 77 
 
 his hat on again, and took up his parable, inveighing 
 against banks with undiminished enjoyment. 
 
 Long may the open-air Parliament flourish. Its oratory 
 attains, perhaps, as high a level as that recorded by Han- 
 sard, on the whole ; and it is less harmful. Many a 
 strange humour that, driven inwards, would work a fever 
 in the blood, finds in this agreeable exercise its natural 
 escape. Pent in the brain, it would gather sullen force, 
 which would suddenly explode in violent action, that now 
 dissipates into thin air. Often an honest enthusiasm burns 
 here, to who knows what good effect ? But, as experience 
 shows, the casual audiences are as little susceptible to rhe- 
 toric as any in the world. Frantic revolution, the beauties 
 of temperance, the consolations of religion, the reasonable- 
 ness of atheism ; these doctrines, and many more, are 
 preached with an equal fervour under the catholic and 
 paternal supervision of the policeman, and to the inexpres- 
 sible astonishment of the intelligent foreigner. And mean- 
 while the world continues to revolve upon its axis in the 
 ancient groove.
 
 78 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 XIII.— THE CRECHE. 
 
 " But we — pity us ! Oh, pity us ! — 
 We wakeful ; ah, pity us I — 
 We must go back with Policeman Day — 
 Back from the City of Sleep I 
 
 The Day Nurseries for the Children of Working Mothers 
 is the sufficiently descriptive title of one of these most 
 necessary of all benevolent enterprises. There ought to 
 be a day nursery in every mean street in every great city. 
 In London at this moment there are but a scattered few. 
 As the passenger, looking from the window of a train 
 gliding across the immense, dim wilderness of barbarous 
 London, catches here and there a sparkle where the low 
 sun strikes upon a pane of glass : so, in the mental prospect 
 of London's vast degradation, shine these points of charity. 
 
 But why (you ask) cannot the mothers look after their 
 own children ? The answer is simple — even appallingly 
 simple. It is because the mothers in barbarous London 
 must work all day at home or in mill or factory to get a 
 bare subsistence . Therefore they have no time to care for 
 their children. That bald statement is worth a little serious 
 reflection. Tens of thousands of women in barbarous 
 England are absolutely prevented from fulfilling their first 
 natural duty. 
 
 Here is an evil, insidious, deadly, and widespread, that 
 is steadily eating away the national fibre. We cannot now 
 trace its cruel ramifications throughout what is called the 
 social system. It is sufficient for our present purpose to 
 indicate its three main causes. These are : Sweated 
 labour, drink, and bad housing. The sweater, the publi- 
 can, and a combination of slum landlord and jerry-builder
 
 THE CRECHE. 79 
 
 make the devil's trinity that is crushing the life out of 
 England. Their gospel is the gospel of cheapness. 
 
 The sweated labour consists in lowering men's wages 
 to starvation point, and then throwing the men out of em- 
 ployment and replacing them with their wives and 
 daughters, at lower wages still. Even of this scant 
 pittance the publican takes a heavy toll, the slum land- 
 lord and the jerry-builder a heavier. Then, under our 
 present economically perfect, but actually ruinous, indus- 
 trial conditions, both men and women are thrown out of 
 work altogether. But first the men are discharged, so that 
 the women have to work. 
 
 Let us see how these things work in practice at a day 
 nursery established in Ba'ttcrsea. The conditions which 
 prevail in that moribund district also prevail, with varia- 
 tions, at Hoxton, where is another nursery, and everywhere 
 in the barbarous provinces of London. 
 
 Battersea is not regarded as a particularly distressed pro- 
 vince. Yet here are hundreds of steady men out of work, 
 wandering the streets in vain quest of it. These are to be 
 most definitely distinguished from the wastrels who also 
 wander the streets, but not in search of work. The men 
 having nothing, the women must turn to. In Battersea, 
 laundry work is the chief industry. A laundry provides 
 only three or four days' work in the week. The collect- 
 ing, which occupies the rest of the week, is done by a few 
 persons employed for that purpose. The pay of the laundry 
 women is eight to nine shillings per week. That is abso- 
 lutely all they have for their families. They live in one 
 or two rooms in a wretched, shoddy tenement house. There 
 is no water supply except in the basement. They pay from, 
 four to six shillings a week in rent. 
 
 To earn their eight or nine shillings, they must work the 
 whole day long for three or four days each week. What 
 becomes of the children ? They are left to old women of 
 unrefined habits and of abysmal ignorance and indif- 
 ference ; or they are locked in or locked out. They are 
 neglected; ijl clad, ill fed, exposed to heat and rain and
 
 80 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 cold. They sicken and die in large numbers. The sur- 
 vivors are often enfeebled for life. Such is the Imperial 
 race in its cradle. 
 
 It must be admitted that even if the mothers were able 
 to devote their time to their households, their profound 
 ignorance of the simplest elements of domestic economy, 
 and of the right nurture of children, inflicts immense 
 injury upon their offspring. These women grew up in the 
 same blighting atmosphere of neglected home, of drink, 
 of squalor. They have all been to school, it is true ; and 
 the result is a remarkable commentary upon our methods 
 of education. But so much the more is the nursery required. 
 
 Grant Road is a drab street, sentinelled by two sullen 
 red public -houses. The pattern is repeated for miles on 
 every hand. You can pick out the day nursery from the 
 row of flat -fronted houses at once, because it has large 
 casement windows set wide open. Within, the ground 
 floor consists of one room running the depth of the house, 
 with a little bath-room built on at the back. It is warm 
 and airy, and very clean. Ten or a dozen children are 
 playing on the floor. Against the wall, beside the fire- 
 place, is ranged a row of wicker cradles, in which babies 
 are peacefully sleeping, a mottled curve of cheek visible 
 above the blankets . A pleasant - faced nurse in a print 
 gown is playing with three or four of the children. Other 
 children are sitting solemnly by themselves nursing dolls. 
 
 The eldest child is four years old. They are all clean and 
 neat, and perfectly contented. 
 
 Look more narrowly at these little creatures, and you 
 
 shall see that most of them, though they are pale, are not 
 
 unhealthy in aspect. But one, seated by itself, remains 
 
 perfectly motionless, staring with unblinking, incurious 
 
 eyes. It has that strange, indefinable seal upon its wan 
 
 features, the sign of helpless suffering. The nursery is its 
 
 harbour of refuge. All beyond those comfortable walls is 
 
 untold savagery . It may yet be saved — but for what ? 
 
 Truly, the state of England does no't suggest a hopeful 
 
 answer. But the good people who maintain the nursery
 
 THE CRECHE. 81 
 
 have enough to do with the present without speculating 
 on the future. They relieve an immediate need. They 
 help the toiling mothers to save the children. They help 
 to steer those frail barks across the troubled waters of 
 childhood. That accomplished, so much is gained, at least. 
 
 A matron, a nurse, and a cook, with such assistance as 
 voluntary workers can give, keep the whole establishment ; 
 and wearing work it is. The number of children varies 
 from a dozen or so to 20 or 30. All these must be washed 
 and tended and fed. They are brought by the parents, or 
 by the elder children on their way to school early in the 
 morning, and in the same way they are taken home at 
 night. 
 
 In the afternoon the children are put to sleep in an upper 
 room. The dormitory is fitted with platforms raised a few 
 inches from the ground. On the platforms little mattresses 
 are ranged in rows. Here the children may regain the 
 sleep of which they are deprived overnight, for the poor 
 keep late hours and early. Not until the public -houses 
 close is the street allowed to sleep. 
 
 They are the mothers who benefit, as well as the children . 
 The mother will gratefully pay 3d. a day to the nursery, 
 knowing that the children are kept safe and happy and 
 well fed while she labours through the hours. Another 
 inestimable gift the nursery bestows upon the mothers, in 
 that the matron teaches them how to feed and how to nur- 
 ture their children — matters of which they know less than 
 the untutored savage in his native wild. They are eager 
 to learn, are these poor women, and grateful for the know- 
 ledge. It is true that some are unteachable, but these are 
 few — not more numerous, probably, than in any other class 
 of society. 
 
 But to working men who have lost their wives, the nur- 
 sery provides nothing less than a refuge from despair. 
 Consider the lot of a man who is left with three or four 
 small children. If he has work, he must leave the care of 
 them to a neighbour, who has more than she can do already, 
 or to some decrepit old woman, totally unlit for the charge. 
 
 L.P.L.S. G
 
 82 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 If he has no work, and there is no one to look after the 
 children, he must stay at home, and so be prevented from 
 looking for work. .There is, of course, the workhouse. 
 But, needless to say, the very word is utterly hateful to the 
 respectable poor — and for good and sufficient reasons. To 
 such a man the day nursery is salvation. 
 
 Now, here we are to note a remarkable fact. They are 
 the respectable poor who value the day nursery. The class 
 below them, the people of the abyss, are dead to all con- 
 siderations of their children's welfare. They spend their 
 money on drink. The children must take their chance. 
 Therefore the circumstances of the parents who bring their 
 children to the nursery afford an index to the conditions 
 under which thousands of steady working people are cruelly 
 suffering. The men are most often out of work. There- 
 fore the women must work, and therefore, if it were not 
 for the day nursery, the children must be neglected. Then, 
 of course, there are the men who drink, and again their 
 wives must earn money. And then there are the 
 men who have deserted their families, and who are living 
 in workhouses and Rowton Houses and common lodging 
 houses under false names. But the majority of the men, 
 it is the plain fact, despite all the theories of economists 
 and the elaborate fictions of free traders, cannot get work. 
 A vicious industrial system, a diseased social organism, 
 revenge themselves upon the nation. You may cut down 
 wages, you may cast out men and employ women because 
 they are cheaper, you may sell drink as freely as you please, 
 you may let the jerry-builder work his will, and you may 
 then pride yourself on national independence of character. 
 But for all these things there is a price to be paid. The 
 money you make goes in millions to maintain gaols and 
 workhouses and asylums and hospitals ; your children die 
 like flies ; you cannot get stout men for your Army ; you 
 breed Socialism. And, finally, if you have any pity for the 
 children of the poor, you must establish day nurseries, if 
 only because it is the least you can do — although it is so 
 much, so very much, to the poor — until better days.
 
 THE CRECHE. S3 
 
 There should be a day nursery in every poor street. It 
 costs four to five pounds a week to maintain a day nursery, 
 even in the shoddy house of the jerry-builder. Threepence 
 a day is more than the mothers can afford, yet they pay it. 
 Now, how is this great scheme to be executed ? 
 
 G 2
 
 84 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 XIV.— FAMINE. 
 
 " Much mighty speech -making there has been, both in and out of 
 Parliament, concerning Tom ... In the midst of which dust and 
 noise there is but one thing perfectly clear — to wit, that Tom only 
 may and can, or shall and will, be reclaimed according to somebody's 
 theory but nobody's practice." 
 
 In the heart of the Borough there is an arched alley- 
 leading from the thronged pavement into what was until 
 lately a vile nest of slums, and which was accordingly inked 
 dense black upon Mr. Charles Booth's map of London 
 poverty and riches. The foul houses have now been cleared 
 away, and upon a part of the open space — narrow enough 
 even now — it is hoped that a school playground may be 
 made. The dull brick edifice of the school stands here, 
 a citadel in the midst of mean houses and tall blocks of 
 model dwellings, in which hides bitter poverty. It is a 
 " provided " school, in official slang ; in other words, it 
 is a school built and maintained in the face of grinding 
 difficulties, by a certain Church, for the sake of charity 
 and religion. 
 
 In the long upper schoolroom, where are the elder boys, 
 three large classes are under gentle and orderly instruc- 
 tion. The courteous headmaster owns not only the will, 
 but the ability, to tell the visitor the exact circle of cruel 
 circumstance which presses upon each boy. Each boy 
 knows that he knows, and trusts him, and he trusts them. 
 He calls one from the corner of the nearest desk, and the 
 youngster rises and comes naturally and fearlessly. He 
 is shabbily clothed, buttoned to the collarless throat, 
 narrow-shouldered, with a thin, pointed face, large, gentle, 
 grey eyes, and a lightly flushed cheek. He is threatened 
 with consumption.
 
 FAMINE. 85 
 
 The headmaster has his record in his hand. It runs 
 something like this : — " No father. Mother at work, earns 
 1 os., five children. Rent, 3s. 6d." I give no names, 
 and alter the record in unimportant points ; because the 
 boys trust one to keep their confidence. That boy has 
 never had a full meal in his life, or a complete suit of warm 
 clothing. His face bears the stamp of that unquestion- 
 ing, helpless resignation which is the mark of the suffer- 
 ing child. Scan the wan faces ranged along the forms 
 — you shall see the same pitiful, hopeless resignation in the 
 eyes of the greater number. Here is a boy of twelve, who 
 looks but eight or nine, so meagre is he, whose feet are 
 bare, and his trousers in ragged fringes. His face is quite 
 white, his aspect beaten and dull. He is of the poorest ; 
 for boots are one of the tokens of respectability. These 
 children will continue to wear their boots when the sole is 
 clean worn away ; so that they come to school with the 
 upper leathers soaked, and sit all day with their bare feet 
 on the ground. 
 
 Here is a little red - headed chap, with black eyes, 
 diminutive as a weasel ; next him is a fair-haired child with 
 a delicate oval face, tiny like a doll. He is eight years 
 old, and he is the size of a normal child of three. His 
 light hair is cropped close, save for a fringe on his fore- 
 head, through which he peers trustfully up at the visitor, 
 as he whispers his age, and the fact that " yesterday mother 
 bought two bacon bones for dinner for 2d., because she 
 didn't have no more money." Near by is a short, square 
 boy, of a stolid aspect, pale as they all arc, and undersized, 
 but with a kind of determination about him. His father 
 left a widower with three small children, and this boy. 
 1 he father, who was (as usual) out of work, could find no 
 neighbour to take charge of the children, so he stayed at 
 home and took charge of them himself. The boy does 
 house work before school, and after. If he earns a penny 
 by a fortunate chance, he spends a halfpenny for to-day's 
 rations, and keep the balance tor to-morrow. If it were 
 not for the school, he would get no other food.
 
 86 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 The headmaster tells the boys who are receiving school 
 meals to stand up. Nearly half the boys stand. Those 
 boys whose fathers have got work that day are told to sit 
 down. Two or three sit down. It is to be precisely noted 
 that no meals are given by the school unless the master 
 knows by personal inquiry the circumstances of the boy's 
 parents. The school, which is poor in money, was forced, 
 as it were, into the distribution of one free meal to the 
 needy — only a little soup and bread — in this wise. Upon 
 a morning, when there was snow on the ground, a boy 
 came to the school and fainted upon the threshold. They 
 made him a couch of the other boys' coats, and did what 
 they could to revive him. He had had no food that morn- 
 ing, nor the whole of the previous day. They sent him 
 home with his brother, with a message to his mother, tell- 
 ing her to put him to bed and to send for the doctor. The 
 mother — a feckless wretch — kept him in bed for one day, 
 and sent him to school the next. He was so miserably 
 ill that the master again sent him home, with his brother. 
 He never got there. On the way he was taken violently 
 sick, and fainted in the entry to a court. A policeman 
 took him to the hospital, where he died. 
 
 Private charity was invoked to help to feed these poor 
 children ; and the teachers voluntarily sacrifice their time 
 to serving the meals. There is no difficulty whatever in 
 deciding who ought to be fed. The boys themselves, so 
 soon as there is any food in their homes, voluntarily 
 refuse the school meal. More, the parents, so soon as they 
 get work, will come to the headmaster and ask him to send 
 their children home to meals. 
 
 The elder girls, those of Standard VII., have a look of 
 better health, on the whole. There are but few of the 
 terrible white, hopeless faces. The headmistress will tell 
 you that not many of the underfed are capable of reach- 
 ing the standard before they are fourteen, when they leave. 
 But, even so, there are a few. 
 
 In the next room are the little girls ; and in them you 
 see the fatal process beginning. There, in the corner,
 
 FAMINE. 87 
 
 against the wall, is a heavy, pallid face, the hair hanging 
 about it, the eyes wistful and darkened, of a little thing 
 of ten, who is scarce larger than a child of five. Near her 
 is another like her, and another, and another. The teacher 
 calls them up, and they crowd about the visitor, looking 
 up incurious, wholly languid. Is there such another 
 lamentable sight in all broad England ? Yes — in every great 
 town in the land, troops upon troops of foredoomed and 
 stricken children. No fault of theirs — no fault of theirs. 
 
 But what (you say) of the parents? 'Generally, speak- 
 ing, the parents are merely in direst poverty, through no 
 fault of their own. Here are some records, as they stand, 
 ascertained by personal investigation — not by the detective 
 methods of scientific " charity," but by means of familiar 
 intercourse. 
 
 "Father, invalid. Mother, hawker. Sometimes earns 
 two shillings in the day. Four children. One boy earns 
 seven-and-six a week. Rent 10s. a week." (One "fur- 
 nished " room — the last resort of the abject.) 
 
 " Father, irregular work, two or three days weekly. Four 
 children. Eldest eleven." This child, emaciated, thinly 
 clad, undersized, does the housework and tends the three 
 other children, before and after school. "Rent, five 
 shillings." 
 
 " Father, market porter out of work. Mother earns 
 eleven shillings a week at fur-pulling (one of the worst 
 trades in the world). Seven children. Rent, four shil- 
 lings and ninepence." And so on. There are pages of 
 like matter in the school books. Among them are a few 
 — but only a few — records of drunken and vicious parents. 
 
 " Words are only words." Nothing save the sight of 
 the eyes will completely and searingly convince. No argu- 
 ments will avail so long as good people decline to use 
 their senses. But so soon as they see, all arguments will 
 be superfluous. For they will see the shame of England. 
 And there will be no more talk. There will be something 
 done. It is time, God knows.
 
 88 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME, 
 
 XV.— THE HEART OF SPRING. 
 
 " And their sun does never shine, 
 
 And their fields are bleak and bare, 
 And their ways are filled with thorns : 
 It is eternal winter there." 
 
 My friend, whom I will call Tenby (because it seems to fit 
 his precise figure and neatness of character) told me of an 
 experience which befell him, to be exact, on a Saturday 
 afternoon, at the Bermondsey Town Hall. He considers 
 it an important and an illuminating experience. Of that 
 you shall judge for yourself. He has not the least objec- 
 tion to my setting it forth in print . 
 
 But in order to appreciate his point of view, you must 
 understand that Tenby is a good little man, who endures a 
 somewhat hard and monotonous lot with unfailing courage. 
 He is a City clerk. His chief interest in life consists in a 
 kind of studious philanthropy. He is a born reformer, 
 and therefore an idealist. It was quite natural, therefore, 
 that when he saw the announcement of the May Day Festi- 
 val of the Guild of Play and the Guild of Brave Poor 
 Things, to be held at the Bermondsey Town Hall, he should 
 buy a ticket. 
 
 " I had never been south the river before," he said. " I 
 took a 'bus from the office across the Tower Bridge, and I 
 came into a perfectly new kind of London. I don't know 
 what there is about the district, but it's different from others . 
 You know how I hate London — though it's a wonderful 
 place, mind you, the most wonderful place in the world. 
 Look at the business side — marvellous ! But I wasn't 
 thinking of business on Saturday. I was thinking of 
 people and the dreadful poverty. There's something about
 
 THE HEART OF SPRING. 89 
 
 the huge, great warehouses of the riverside, towering over 
 the wretched dismal streets, and the loafing men and frowsy 
 women and the crowds of children in the gutters, that 
 makes me thoroughly miserable. Besides, I wanted to be 
 in the country, and I wanted the children to be in the 
 country too. It was a day of spring, you know — bright sky 
 and a sort of charm in the air that makes you restless — and 
 to see these miles of bricks and pavement, which shut in 
 the children and shut out the spring, is very depressing — ■ 
 really, very depressing. The little touches of green in the 
 churchyard make it almost worse, I think. . . . There 
 was a bluejacket in the tram, too, and with his ruddy face 
 and his vigour, I declare he was like a light shining among 
 the pale, languid London people. He made you think of 
 the spaces of the sea and the clean wind on your face. 
 
 " I got out of the tram, and I tell you I was fairly 
 miserable. I couldn't see any hope at all for the poor 
 noisy children swarming on the dirty pavements and 
 nursing spotty babies on the public -house steps. Of 
 course, I know we shall get reforms in time ; but they come 
 so slowly that the children about us will be white-haired 
 paupers in the workhouse first. It's like trying to push a 
 great wall down with your hands. Of course, I believe 
 in the destiny of the English people and all that, but there's 
 no denying they're slow to move — wonderfully slow. I was 
 thinking of these things as I went up the steps of the Town 
 Hall — and there, too, the street children were crowding, 
 all pale and hot and dirty. I'm particular to tell you all 
 this because of what happened afterwards. 
 
 ' Well, I went up into the hall, and really I assure you 
 I stepped straight into the spring. The whole floor was 
 just a garden of flowers and greenery, and the flowers were 
 children. There was a band of minstrels dressed like old- 
 fashioned country-folk, and they were playing old English 
 melodies that did your heart good to hear. But what struck 
 me was the happiness of the children. One somehow felt 
 it in the air more than noticed it, if you know what I mean. 
 It wasn't merely a performance ; they were really happy. 
 
 " The children all sat down in groups on the floor, a
 
 9.o LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 green and yellow group, like the cowslips and green grass 
 they carried in bunches, a dark blue group with hyacinths, 
 and so on— all mingled together, you know, like a wood in 
 springtime. These were the very same children I had been 
 pitying so outside. The Guild of Play, which is organised 
 by Mrs. C. W. Kimmins, who also organised the Guild of 
 Brave Poor Things, is composed of ladies who teach the 
 children in the Elementary Schools in the evenings. They 
 teach them the jolly old English dances and songs, and 
 dress them for the parts. This was, of course, their May- 
 Day festival. It is combined with the Brave Poor Things 
 for the occasion. I was beginning to wonder where the 
 Poor Things were, when a boy, using a crutch with won- 
 derful skill came out upon the open space in front of the 
 platform, and read — very well he read, too — a little speech 
 welcoming the visitors . This was the head boy of the 
 Heritage School of Arts and Crafts at Chailey, Sussex. He 
 looked jolly and sturdy, despite his infirmity. Then a little 
 band of Poor Things came up and bowed, all wonderfully 
 dressed as Maid Marian, Friar Tuck, the Dragon, the 
 Clown, the Donkey, and the rest of the old mumming 
 characters. They were happy, there was no mistake. And 
 wonderfully active, though every one was crippled. They 
 made their bow and spoke their words like heroes, and went 
 to the side and sat round Maid Marian. 
 
 "Then the revels began. The children danced the Morris 
 Dance, led by a young lady who really is one of the most 
 charming dancers I've ever seen. What does Shakespeare 
 say? ' Like a wave of the sea ' — that's it. Then they 
 danced about the May -pole, and then they sang rounds 
 and ballads — I don't know v/hat you think, but I believe 
 there's nothing more beautiful, except Church music, which 
 is the most beautiful thing in the world. 
 
 " And all the time the children were happily revelling I 
 kept wondering what was it I felt. It was a real, new 
 sensation— a kind of glow and a sense of anticipation, as 
 when you wake up on a day when something glad is going 
 to happen, and you can't remember for a moment what it is . 
 It was when a little child in red, with fair curls, was singing
 
 THE HEART OF SPRING. 9 1 
 
 a jolly old rhyme all by herself, and then the chorus joined 
 in, that I knew what was happening to me. I can't pro- 
 perly describe it, but it was like suddenly beholding the 
 living heart of the eternal spring. Here it was, right in 
 this room, within four walls, shut in by miles of squalid 
 houses — the very heart of the spring. I seemed to see 
 that the real spring was not all an affair of leaves and 
 blossoms and sunshine. These are — what shall I say? — 
 the ensigns of a force that lives and sings unseen ; and 
 these good and kind ladies held the secret of it, and had 
 given it, patiently and by degrees, and with much labour, 
 to the children. Yes, the children had the spring in their 
 hearts. It was wonderful. It was an illumination. 
 
 " And when Dr. Kimmins, speaking from the platform, 
 explained the work that is done by the Guild of Brave Poor 
 Things ; how they take the hopelessly crippled, and place 
 them in the school at Chailey, down in the country, and 
 teach them a handicraft, so that they can earn their own 
 living, girls as well as boys ; and how the principle upon 
 which the whole education is based is the teaching of cour- 
 age and indomitable cheerfulness, and the love of beauti- 
 ful things — why, somehow I saw a connection between this 
 noble doctrine and the heart of the spring. But I expect 
 I don't clearly explain what I mean. However, I can only 
 tell you this, that when I went away home through the mass 
 of clattering dismal streets, and saw the children swarming 
 on the pavements, I had quite a new feeling. I pitied 
 them, as I had done before. But I was no longer hopeless 
 for them. For I saw that not all the hideous mass of 
 brick and stone could crush the human heart, and that you 
 may bury the meadows and besmirch the sky ; and still 
 the spring will flower in the heart. However, all honour, 
 / say, to the good and gentle women who plant that eternal 
 blossom in the dark places. . . . 
 
 ' I've been talking an awful lot. But it isn't all fancy, 
 IS it } " 
 
 ' No," I said. " I saw what you saw, and I .think it 
 true."-
 
 92 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 XVI.— PLAYMATES. 
 
 " Girls and boys come out to play : 
 The moon is shining as bright as day I 
 Leave your supper and leave your sleep, 
 And come with your playfellows out in the street 1 " 
 
 The London twilight is darkening upon the loud, in- 
 hospitable streets ; the footways are thronged with pas- 
 sengers making homewards ; and among them, you remark 
 little parties of children are steadily threading their way 
 in one direction. Near by, a huge bulk of school build- 
 ings looms above the housetops, graven heavily upon the 
 light sky that pales and fades so very far and high beyond 
 the little creatures, assembling down here on the soiled 
 pavements about the school. But there are lights in the 
 upper windows, for this is the hour of the Children's Happy 
 Evenings Association, when certain kind persons gather 
 together to bring to the children of poverty some of the 
 light and happiness of another condition of life. Above 
 stairs, in the school hall, three or four ladies have made 
 all ready. 
 
 A child of fourteen, with a patient, pale face and large 
 grey eyes, sits at the piano. At a word, she strikes up a 
 lively quickstep, and the children, who have been quietly 
 waiting upon staircase and landing, troop in two by two, 
 and march into the cloakroom, and out again. 
 
 Two ladies head the ranks, and they march in and out 
 in a scroll of figures familiar to the drill instructor, the 
 while the rest of the children are assembled. 
 
 Look at the faces as they pass. You shall see in these 
 poor girls of ten to fourteen years old, every type that is 
 known to you in every grade of society. The poor — it is a
 
 PLAYMATES. 93 
 
 platitude, but one forgets it — are differentiated from the 
 rich, not by temperament, but by circumstance. Nature 
 brings forth her types, with their infinite variations, regard- 
 less of circumstance ; and in the faces of the children you 
 shall read her intention. Presently, circumstance will have 
 so wrought upon the child, that a certain kind of adapted 
 temperament is formed and hardened. But, even in child- 
 hood — and here is the cruelty — the mark of that invisible 
 branding begins to show. Look at this meagre, high- 
 shouldered girl of thirteen, her lank brown hair hanging 
 about a white face and heavy eyes. The mouth is a little 
 drawn. She knows what lack of sleep is, what cold and 
 hunger are — she has always known. Next her marches a 
 poor child with a congenital deformity of the lower jaw. 
 Behind them come two little crop -headed, round-faced 
 girls, jolly and smiling, careless of wretched clothing. 
 Here is a heavy and sullen countenance, that has been sub- 
 dued to that unlovely mask, softened even now in the ring 
 and rhythm of the music. Here is a pretty blue-eyed child, 
 whose flaxen hair is tied with a blue ribbon — you shall see 
 her like any day in Kensington Gardens ; but her clean 
 pinafore hides a ragged frock, and her boots are worn and 
 clumsy. So the double file turns in and out, and the pale 
 girl at the piano looks over her shoulder smiling, while 
 her thin fingers flutter upon the keys. 
 
 One of the ladies rings a bell . The march stops, and 
 the children line up round the walls. They are called to 
 choose their occupation for the evening. First, those for 
 dolls ; and a file of little girls marches happily to the dolls' 
 room. Then, those for drawing and painting ; then, those 
 for cutting out paper figures and making them into toys ; 
 then, those for sewing and embroidery ; then, those for 
 fairy stories. Each detachment marches into its allotted 
 room, which is under the charge of a lady. 
 
 The little people with the dolls are all seated at desks, 
 each with a doll, whose dress so gloriously outshines her 
 own. Some are dressing or undressing them ; others are 
 merely sitting perfectly still, nursing the waxen lady ; rapt,
 
 94 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 sober, wholly content. In the drawing and painting room, 
 the children are colouring outlines, or pictures cut from 
 the illustrated papers. Each has a little box of water 
 colours, whose palettes are scrupulously cleaned at the end 
 of the evening. They are taking great pains, and, for 
 the time being, they have forgotten all else. So with the 
 children who are colouring and cutting out figures and 
 folding them into toys . The sewing and embroidery pupils 
 are gathered about a table, at which a lady deals out ma- 
 terials and encouragement and advice. Most of them are 
 making kettle-holders, upon which a brown kettle, elabo- 
 rately shaded, is boiling on a red fire, amid a blue back- 
 ground . 
 
 Look through the glass panels of the room in which 
 the fairy stories are told, and you shall see a motionless 
 circle of pale faces, every eye turned upon the story-teller. 
 So it has been since the time before history — the circle 
 of eager eyes, and in the midst the teller of tales, the 
 good magician who comes to us through the ivory gates. 
 In the next room are four or five quiet little creatures, 
 poring over books. Their excellent notion of happiness 
 is a quiet place and a good book. Meanwhile, those who 
 have no desire for sedentary pleasures are playing and romp- 
 ing in the hall, together with two or three ladies, who 
 know the elusive rules of those children's games whose 
 charm is perennial, like the folk-lore from which they 
 sprang. So, for two hours, these little girls are made 
 happy with innocent enjoyment by kind persons who are 
 fond of them. 
 
 At the same time, the boys are enjoying themselves in 
 their own way. They are marched in to music, like the 
 girls, and are told off to their chosen occupations. In 
 the hall is a squad of plucky youngsters, which is being 
 drilled in calisthenics by a smart young corporal of the 
 Blues. He, too, is a volunteer in the cause, is this excel- 
 lent soldier ; and many is the good turn he and his com- 
 rades have done these youngsters . Weedy little chaps they 
 are, the most of them, with arms like pipe -stems and backs
 
 PLAYMATES. 95 
 
 that bend like rushes. Some day, we hope, these little 
 sons of England shall be properly fed. Meanwhile, they 
 are doing their gallant little best against disastrous odds. 
 In an adjoining room, three or four couples are boxing, 
 with immense zest, giving and receiving tremendous pun- 
 ishment with a grin. They are supervised by two young 
 men who bear the stamp of public school and university, 
 and who pull them gently apart when they close, which 
 they do about twice a minute. Next door there is paint- 
 ing going on — the colour schemes conceived by the boys 
 being perhaps a thought more audacious than those of the 
 girls. 
 
 In another room boys are knitting and sewing ; solemnly 
 toiling with clumsy fingers, or plying their needles with 
 the deftness of long practice. Some are sewing neckties, 
 others are making little cloth purses. One little chap 
 brings for inspection a purse of purple cloth fastened with 
 a white button. His round face glows with inexpressible 
 pride and satisfaction. 
 
 So for a while all these forget the cruel wilderness of 
 street and court and alley into which they were born ; and 
 for a while they are happy. 
 
 Upon some twenty or thirty thousand children in the 
 London area is this gift bestowed every night during seven 
 or eight months of the year by the members of the Child- 
 ren's Happy Evenings Association. It is [not only that they 
 are made happy and are taught useful employments ; 
 although, if that were all, the work would still be 
 extremely worth the doing. The ladies and gentlemen who 
 give their time to the children do so for love ; and the 
 children know it. There is no question of services given 
 for money. It is a matter of friendship ; of good influ- 
 ences unconsciously disengaged, unconsciously received ; 
 of individual effort and individual success.
 
 96 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 XVII.— T. S. MERCURY. 
 
 " And so farewell to the Christian hero, ' the happy warrior,' upon 
 whom has come nothing that ' he did not foresee ' . . . We know 
 that we cannot imitate the actions and characters of great men ; 
 we can only appreciate them : no effort of ours will place us on a 
 level with them. Yet we pray also that some good influence may 
 flow from them to us which may raise us above the conventionalities 
 of the world, above the fashion of political opinions, to dwell in the 
 light of justice, in the constancy of truth." 
 
 A LITTLE sign -post planted at the corner of a sandy 
 lane, and bearing the legend " To Training Ship Mercury " 
 — and that is all the indication given to the world of a 
 great enterprise and a great achievement. That, and a 
 brief notice in a solemn and ornate work on " Hampshire 
 at the Opening of the Twentieth Century," by W. H. Jacob. 
 " The establishment and upkeep of the training ship Mer- 
 cury, moored off his estate on the banks of the Hamble, 
 has been the noble work of Captain C. A. B. Hoare since 
 1885," says the author, and proceeds to a few statistics. 
 
 The lane winds through meadow and pasture, and 
 emerges abruptly from between thick hedges upon a tall 
 block of irregular red building, closed about with trees. 
 The visitor thus arrives as it were by accident. The house, 
 too, for some indefinable reason, seems to wear an acci- 
 dental aspect. It is unlike other houses ; and yet it is hard 
 to specify the point of dissimilarity. It is plain and solid 
 and capacious — so are many mansions. But its windows 
 look out from unexpected spaces of wall, and its chimneys 
 overtop the steep roofs at unusual places. It would, for 
 instance, be impossible mentally to plan the house from 
 an external view. Memory even refuses to picture a front 
 door, suggesting that the entrance was approached round
 
 T. S. MERCURY. 97 
 
 the corner by way of a smooth lawn, with an old capstan 
 in the middle, and that it led immediately upon a maze 
 of passages, which turned about mysterious angles. But 
 on every hand the wide rooms, crammed with ancient furni- 
 ture and vast armchairs and curiosities from far countries, 
 looked out upon the pure tranquillity of the autumn land- 
 scape. The place was wrapped in a profound quietude. 
 A bee wandered in from the yellow roses clustering about 
 the window, and wandered out again. Beyond, a cleft in 
 the still foliage of the garden revealed a patch of shining 
 water and the spiring masts of a full-rigged ship. 
 
 This was Captain Hoare's residence, as owner and com- 
 mander of the Mercury. He had others, for information 
 concerning which the curious may consult Mr. Jacob's illu- 
 minating pages in " Hampshire at the Opening of the 
 Twentieth Century." At the side of the house is a wide 
 verandah, in which is a large scale half-model of a masted 
 ship, equipped with appliances for learning her rig. Up- 
 stairs, approached by a tortuous passage, out of which the 
 rooms open like ships' cabins, is a great chamber filled 
 with a magnificent collection of models. Here are brigs, 
 schooners, three-deckers, first-rates, frigates, liners, bat- 
 tleships, cruisers, torpedo craft, most delicately and won- 
 derfully made to various scales, together with larger models 
 of various parts of construction, and a miscellany of nau- 
 tical appliances. In another part of the house is a 
 panelled reading room, which the boys are allowed to use 
 under certain restrictions with regard to conduct. 
 
 Below the house, towards the river, is another building ; 
 and lifted high upon the wall hangs a life-sized crucifix. 
 The bronze Figure is wreathed about with clustering 
 passion flowers ; and over the head, beneath a canopy, a 
 light burns all night, beaconing down to the river, where 
 the ship is moored. An inscription, partly hidden by the 
 fading leaves, is graven upon a stone beneath the feet. 
 1 lire it is : — 
 
 " Dedicated to minds th.it can soar, that will rise and 
 not be discouraged by obstacles or difficulties, ili.it will 
 L.P.L.S. H
 
 98 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 chance and dare for what they love and know to be right. 
 
 44 To co-operation, combination, dash, perseverance, and 
 unselfishness, this building and its adjuncts are fearlessly 
 dedicated for harmony, the good of mankind, and to hearts 
 that can beat for others . 
 
 " Its ideal is Good Friday's hero." 
 
 44 This building," in the mind of the author, is not that 
 which is made with hands, and since the things which are 
 unseen are eternal, we are come to the heart of the matter. 
 It lies in that blunt and noble legend, plainly cut in the 
 stone, beneath the passion flowers. None that reads it, 
 passing by, can forget it. 
 
 41 This building," then, is surely the gradual, indefa- 
 tigable work of the education and inspiration of the hun- 
 dreds of boys who are brought hither from many varying 
 surroundings to become stout servants of the State. 
 
 They are even now filing into the chapel for the brief 
 midday service. Here are near a hundred boys, all dressed 
 in bluejackets' uniform, and their ages range from ten or 
 twelve to sixteen. Their cropped heads are bare ; they 
 are tanned and clean and sturdy. The keen faces bear 
 the unmistakable stamp of discipline and the eyes are 
 steadfast . 
 
 As they file into the dark chapel, each boy picks up a 
 little pile of devotional books from his chair, and kneels. 
 Beyond, out of the pictured dimness of the chancel, gleam 
 the gold circlets of haloed saints and martyrs. As the 
 chaplain reads the short service not a boy but is wholly 
 attentive. When the service is done, each boy replaces 
 his books with exact precision, and they all file out, to dis- 
 perse to their various duties and classes of instruction. 
 
 44 This building and its adjuncts " include, besides the 
 chapel and the Mercury herself, a gymnasium, a theatre, 
 a cricket field, a hospital ship, and a miniature railway. 
 You are to figure them, not as disposed upon the estate 
 in a regular plan, but as placed here and there among the 
 trees and lawns and the fields of sedge and marshland, as 
 the need arose, the whole scheme developing piece by piece,
 
 T. S. MERCURY. 99 
 
 rather than as conceived at the outset and completed by 
 degrees. The lines of the model railway run about the 
 estate and down to the water's edge, binding all together. 
 In the engine shed, concealed by a grove of trees close 
 by the house, are the two locomotives and the train. The 
 little engines, their brass -work shining, stand about four 
 feet high ; the train consists of open trucks, furnished with 
 fixed seats, and a real guard's van. No more irresistible 
 plaything was ever devised for use. 
 
 The theatre is a plain brick building of considerable 
 size. The stage is large enough to accommodate a cast 
 of twenty or thirty. There are a sunk orchestra and a 
 complete equipment of drop-scenes and flies, at the back 
 of which are the wardrobes containing costumes and pro- 
 perties. The front of the gallery is adorned with medal- 
 lions, modelled in high relief, of great artists and com- 
 posers. These embellishments, the decorations, and the 
 scenery are all the result of the efforts of the establish- 
 ment. 
 
 A little below the theatre is the gymnasium, and beyond 
 are the playing fields. The railway lines run across the 
 marsh that lies between the gardens and playing fields and 
 the river, upon a causeway of made ground and out upon a 
 jetty. Half way down, the hospital ship is moored among 
 the flowering sedge. It is the hulk of a big fishing smack, 
 roofed over and tarred black. The interior has been con- 
 verted into a hospital ward, with nurses' room and kitchen. 
 A door cut in the side opens upon the causeway. Within 
 that clean, smooth chamber of honey - coloured wood, 
 three or four youngsters are lying in bed, and the con- 
 valescents are dining at a little table, under the presidency 
 of the uniformed sister. The port -holes are open, and the 
 quiet air blows in from the sea. 
 
 A little way from the jetty the Mercury Is moored head 
 and stern in the stream. She is a brig of some five hundred 
 tons, who served her time at sea as a tea-clipper. The 
 commander has his quarters in a green-painted deckhouse 
 on the poop. The boys live on the main deck, below. 
 
 II 2
 
 ioo LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 The mess tables, placed thwartships and set with shining 
 mess tins, Navy fashion, are ranged on each side. Aft 
 is the roomy galley ; forward are cabins. Everything is 
 immaculate and neat to a hairsbreadth. At night, ham- 
 mocks are slung from the deck -beams ; by day, they are 
 stowed in the nettings. 
 
 A hundred boys or more are always under training. 
 They are instructed by naval pensioners in all that pertains 
 to seamanship, and they attend school daily. They are 
 also trained in music by a bandmaster, and a good band 
 is maintained. At sixteen — with hardly any exceptions — 
 they enter the Navy, in which they pass immediately as 
 first-class ship's boy. At eighteen they are rated ordinary 
 seamen. Here we may appropriately quote once more from 
 "• Hampshire at the Opening of the Twentieth Century " : — 
 
 " Nearly one thousand boys," says the author, " have 
 passed through the training ship, which is no mere hobby, 
 but one of the best and most successful institutions for 
 training the young and preparing them for useful and 
 manly careers. High tributes have been received from 
 the Admiralty and War Office as to the efficiency of the 
 institution." 
 
 Such, then, is the work of one man. We are all of 
 us somewhat insistently aware of the new phases of the 
 old quarrel between riches and poverty, which is swiftly 
 drawing" to new issues. Mr. H. G. Wells, in his book 
 (" In the Days of the Comet ") has stated the case with 
 his peculiarly brilliant subtlety of presentment, and, with 
 a profound significance, he finds no solution save by 
 miracle. Well, the miracle has happened — not Mr. Wells' 
 particular miracle, but another. It is happening every day. 
 
 As the high hedges, receding, hide the tall red house, 
 the playing fields, the scattered buildings, the slender ship 
 resting on her own image in the still water, amid the rust- 
 ling sedge and the quiet meadows, " this building and its 
 adjuncts " are painted in the mind like a dream. But it 
 is no dream ; and, in the remembrance, the words engraven 
 on brass below the feet of the bronze Figure on the cross,
 
 T. S. MERCURY. 101 
 
 half hid beneath the clustering passion flowers, start forth, 
 like the writing on the wall : — 
 
 " All sailors, soldiers, sad and suffering hearts, please 
 will you take care of them."
 
 io2 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 XVIII.— MEDICAL. 
 
 " The Thracians wept when a child was born, and feasted and 
 made merry when a man went out of the world, and with reason." 
 
 The Medical Student from the Hospital turns out of the 
 main road down a malodorous passage (with a post at the 
 entrance) into a quiet court with a broken pavement pf 
 rough concrete. On the left hand and across the end are 
 mean houses ; on the right is a high brick wall, along 
 the top of which a cat obscenely loiters. Beyond the wall 
 rise the steep red -tiled roofs, shambling chimneys, and 
 rickety dormer windows of old, rotten houses . The Medical 
 Student knocks at a door whose side post is inscribed with 
 a French name. It is that of the grey-bearded, stout, old 
 man who opens the door and greets the ,£ doctor " cheerily. 
 He is a cabinet-maker ; the front room — whose open door 
 reveals a litter of brown wood — serves him for workshop 
 and living room. The atmosphere of the house is com- 
 pounded of many evil savours ; but the sum of them re- 
 solves into an odour of essence of tallow, thick and pene- 
 trating. Up the narrow and steep stairs goes the Medical 
 Student, the half - open doors on every landing giving 
 glimpses into the crowded cages of the children of poverty ; 
 knocks at a door on the third floor, opens it, and goes in. 
 The room is about eight feet high, and (say) ten by eight 
 in length and width'; the essence of tallow is concentrated 
 in this chamber of birth— and often of death — whose rent 
 is four shillings and sixpence per week. The window is 
 shut, and there is a fire burning in the hob grate. In the 
 room, besides the patient, are the stout, stolid woman who 
 is acting as nurse— she is a friendly neighbour, qualified
 
 MEDICAL. 10 
 
 j 
 
 for the office by a kindly nature and a profound ignorance 
 of its duties — another neighbour nursing a little girl, and a 
 small boy, his cheeks red and hard to the touch, by reason 
 of a prevalent skin disease. A low, frowsy bed occupies 
 a third of the room ; there is a pale, patient face on the 
 pillow, a little bundle lying beside it. 
 
 " Better to-day, doctor, thank you. Yes, I took the 
 medicine. Yes, it's my sixth child." A weazened, 
 wrinkled, skinny little animal is the sixth child, produced 
 for the medical eye. Being a girl it will probably live — 
 to have other little girls of its own. The Medical Student, 
 kindly, competent, and brisk, does what he has to do, makes 
 certain entries in his note -book, and goes out. He and a 
 colleague attended the woman in her confinement ; to him 
 belongs the care of the case for a space of eleven days, 
 when the patient, who will be up and about by that time, 
 receives her discharge from the hospital books. There 
 she lies, day in and day out : the husband gets his own 
 breakfast and the children's breakfast, such as it is ; the 
 neighbours come in and tend her ; the two children who 
 are not at school run in and put ; the three who are at 
 school come in again to tea ; the husband comes home to 
 his supper, which is eaten on a corner of the table which 
 holds the wash - hand basin ; then — somehow — they all 
 sleep in that kennel . Do the husband and wife suffer ? 
 Well, you are to remember that they have long since ac- 
 quired the stolid acquiescence of the animal. The chil- 
 dren ? They suffer indeed, for all young things must needs 
 suffer for the lack of the primal necessities — good food, 
 
 h air, quiet sleep. O, they suffer ! And so many do 
 not die. 
 
 ( Hit again into the fresh autumn air, into the bustling 
 main street ; which , bordered on either side with' miles of 
 the meaner sort of shops, runs wide between belts of slum. 
 I he tributary streets, rigid channels of dusky brick, run 
 ba< 1' a1 right angles, and turn into narrower streets, which 
 turn again into alleys, whirh resolve them {elves into courts. 
 In every room in every street lives a whole family. Street
 
 104 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 and alley and court are thronged alike with pallid, restless, 
 noisy children. Under the feet of the passengers in the 
 main road, playing in the gutters of, the side streets, 
 clustered about the sewer gratings in court and alley, 
 are children, children, children. The noise of their 
 playing and quarrelling, the clatter of their myriad feet, 
 never cease. Many die : but the slow-footed hearse can- 
 not keep pace with them ; they are ever coming and 
 coming. ... It is the same in any quarter of London, 
 once you pass the barrier of respectability which presents 
 its front of gentility to the main streets and thoroughfares. 
 Always, behind that British mask of respectability, the 
 welter of slums . 
 
 The next case lives in a room in a row of dwarf houses, 
 whose strip of front garden is filled with some poor ruin 
 of summer flowers. Case number two is a cleaner case. 
 There are sheets on the bed, a toilet cover on the chest 
 of drawers, a carpet on the floor, and the window is open. 
 Here is the same pale, vacant face on the pillow, with the 
 same little bundle beside it — but the contents of the bundle 
 are better to see. "All well? That's right," says the 
 Medical Student, closing his note-book when he has done. 
 " Good morning." " Good morning, doctor, and thank 
 you." 
 
 " She's a young wife, with a younger husband," remarks 
 the Medical Student. " He's quite a boy, is the husband. 
 The child — only the second — was ' B.B.A.' — born before 
 arrival of doctor. They very often are. Curious how the 
 people will put off sending till the last moment ; but they 
 keep about till the last, you see. Now for a dirty room." 
 
 Turning into the gloomy quadrangle of a high block of 
 model dwellings — modelled, apparently, on a prison — the 
 doctor pauses in the dark entry to tuck his trousers inside 
 his socks — for reasons. The outer door opens into a thick 
 darkness, and the familiar essence of tallow, with a slightly 
 acid tincture, this time ; another door opens into a room 
 nearly as dark and quite as tallowy. A grey light, filtering 
 down from the roofs high out of sight, merges into
 
 MEDICAL. 105 
 
 obscurity beyond the dirty table by the window ; between 
 the table and the invisible bed against the wall glimmers 
 the dull red of the fire. A stout, pale, cheerful woman is 
 sitting placidly in the dark ; her eleven days have expired ; 
 she is well, save for the need of a " little stren'thenin' 
 medicine, doctor," and will be discharged to-day. The 
 baby is weighed by the careful Medical Student in a towel 
 and a spring scale like those carried by rural postmen. 
 
 4 Eight and a half pounds — who would have believed 
 it ! You should be pleased, missis," says the Medical 
 Student, cheerfully. '"And now you won't see me any 
 more." 
 
 " And very glad of it, too," returns the lady, with an 
 amiable smile. 
 
 " Why, I thought you liked me to come, missis? " 
 " An' so I do, and thank you very much, I'm sure — but I 
 shall be glad indeed to see the back of you," replies the 
 lady, combining some obscurity of meaning with the same 
 amiable smile. 
 
 And so she is left sitting stolidly in the vermin-haunted 
 darkness, like a cow in a foul stable. 
 
 " The model dwellings are often the worst," observes 
 the Medical Student. " Lower rent, lower class of people, 
 you see." 
 
 Exactly. Another complexity in the housing problem. 
 The trustees of these dwellings provide two rooms, a 
 scullery, and conveniences, for less rent than the landlord 
 charges for a single room in which one would decline to 
 kennel a dog of any value . But, if the tenant will reduce his 
 clean quarters to the same state of indescribable filth, what 
 are you to do ? 
 
 At the end of a T-shaped court four feet wide, in a room 
 on the second floor, case number four has had seven chil- 
 dren ; and the seventh cost her forty-three hours' travail. 
 Will that consideration act as a deterrent in the future? 
 Not in the Least. She was resigned, and even cheerful, at 
 tin- time ; she i apparently contented now, lying in the 
 usual dingy bed again t the wall, in the usual reck of tallow.
 
 106 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 A red-covered novel lies open on the broken chair by the 
 bedside. Mr. Max Pemberton may be gratified to learn 
 that the work in question is called " The Iron Pirate." 
 
 There is another dingy bed with a dark red coverlet 
 wedged in along the wall between the door and the window, 
 wherein sleep the six children. Beside the fire sits the 
 usual neighbour, nursing the usual little girl ; another 
 small girl and a ragged boy pervade the room ; and a 
 solid old lady in black, with a nose and chin curving to- 
 wards each other, stands on the only unoccupied piece of 
 floor, wearing an air of aggressive respectability. She is 
 the patient's mother, and so she remains when the room 
 is cleared of the rest. This stout old veteran tells us with 
 unobtrusive pride that she has thirty-six grandchildren ; 
 and when the Medical Student retorts that another mother 
 of another patient of his rejoices in ninety grandchildren, 
 she receives the statement with silent incredulity, merely 
 observing that she hopes that she may be " spared " to be a 
 great -grandmother of many. 
 
 Down a court, round a passage, up a broken stair and 
 across a landing with a hole in the floor, into the strongest 
 essence of tallow we have yet encountered. The usual 
 small fire, the usual cloths hanging over strings clotted 
 with flies, the usual soil and grime and smear, rotting 
 woodwork, festering walls. The head of a hoarse, pale 
 woman is propped on the iron rail of the bed. She is 
 gazing dully out of the window, where a sheet, hung out 
 to dry, hangs in wet folds on a background of dark wall, 
 like a winding-sheet. Seated at the table beneath the win- 
 dow is a small, unwholesome, yellow man. He is sharing 
 a meal with the child on his knee. Tea in a milk-can, 
 bread, butter, haddock, sponge, flannel, yellow soap and 
 a dirty towel or so — with these is the table spread. In 
 obedience to the etiquette invariably practised on these 
 occasions, the small man vanishes swiftly, taking the child 
 with him. The patient, it seems, has had one piece of 
 bread and butter during the last twelve hours. She is given 
 an order for a daily dinner. The husband is out of work.
 
 MEDICAL. 107 
 
 But the pale, hoarse woman on the bed, staring dully at the 
 heavy white folds of the winding-sheet, makes no com- 
 plaint. Going out, the Medical Student passes the small 
 unwholesome yellow husband leaning against a post, pipe 
 in mouth. There is something in his attitude which sug- 
 gests that he spends much of his time in the same slouching 
 occupation. 
 
 The day's visiting is done, and the Medical Student feels 
 a certain desire for a bath. But, there are many worse 
 places than those on his list in London town. 
 
 Through the barrier again, on the polite side thereof — 
 the whited side — going City-wards down Fleet Street, the 
 level autumn sun behind us. The glittering, many- 
 spotted street, the tall houses half clothed in shadow and 
 half in golden radiance, ascends beyond the dark bar, set 
 with gold, of the railway bridge, to the piled magnificence 
 of St. Paul's, whose sunlit columns and floating dome are 
 jutted upon by the black spire of Saint Martin's Ludgate, 
 and veiled for a passing moment by a plumed white wreath 
 of smoke. . . . Here is the splendid semblance of our 
 London ; and the golden cross that flames on the tiptop of 
 the crested dome, looks far and wide over the vast plain 
 of dusky roofs ; where, out of sight, busy, irresistible, piti- 
 less, the Wheel ever turns and turns, flinging wider and 
 wider the tainted circles of ignoble life ; multiplying, hour 
 by hour, the number of the foredoomed children of the 
 poor. There, in the immitigable law of reproduction, lies 
 the central factor of the problem ; blink it as you may.
 
 io8 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME, 
 
 XIX.— SURGICAL. 
 
 ' The. permanently mobilised army which is always in action, 
 always under fire against death." 
 
 There is one benefit, unique of its kind, which is free 
 to the poor. It is nothing less than the highest skill in the 
 art of healing. Every day, men and women and children are 
 hurt or maimed or crushed by sudden accident. Every day, 
 the secret invasion of that unseen force which is ever work- 
 ing to transmute the living organism, and gradually to 
 change it into what we call death, is dreadfully discovered. 
 Science (which is but a name for the knowledge of natural 
 laws), after incredible labours, has taught men how, by 
 the ingenious employment of nature's own methods, not 
 only to heal or to alleviate suffering, but to check and turn 
 aside — at the steel's point— the very processes of dissolu- 
 tion. By the profound knowledge of the scholar, welded 
 to the artist's dexterity, is this miracle daily performed by 
 the surgeon. You shall see a great artist at work. 
 
 Within the entrance door of the hospital, the visitor is 
 aware of another world from the vague and noisy welter of 
 the streets without . It has its own atmosphere, a faint and 
 pungent aroma of antiseptic chemicals. There is a sober 
 hush upon the place, a sense as of grave issues impending. 
 The careless futilities, the stir and turmoil and strife are 
 all laid aside. The rows of quiet faces on the pillows, that 
 pass into view through the open doors of the long wards, 
 as you ascend the stairs, know them no more for a time, 
 or, perhaps, for ever. Here, life looks death in the eyes. 
 For some, death draws nearer and nearer, through the long 
 hours, until only the figure of the surgeon, kind and im- 
 penetrable and courageous, stands between.
 
 SURGICAL. 109 
 
 Below, in the sterilising chamber, every cloth and dress- 
 ing and bandage, and the surgeons' and the nurses' linen 
 overalls, are being prepared for the operation. They are 
 sorted into perforated metal drums and square cases, 
 which are stacked into huge boilers, into which steam is 
 driven at a certain pressure for a certain time. Then, the 
 perforations being closed by a sliding shutter, the drums 
 and cases are sent into the operating theatre, their contents 
 being ready for use. All the instruments are subjected 
 to the same process. From an Adjoining chamber warmed 
 and purified air is pumped into the theatre. Four or five 
 nurses have been at work for some six hours preparing 
 every detail ready to hand for some hours' strenuous busi- 
 ness, during which there must be no mistake — no mistake 
 at all — no delay, and no confusion. 
 
 The patient is lifted from his bed in the ward and laid 
 upon a wheeled carriage, which is conveyed upstairs in the 
 lift, and thence into the anaesthetic room, adjoining the 
 operating theatre. A doctor sits at the patient's head, and 
 begins to administer the anaesthetic. He is so quiet, so 
 perfectly composed, and so entirely and obviously knows 
 his business, that his mere presence is steadying to the 
 patient, as the cap is placed over his face, and the bag pul- 
 sates with his breathing. 
 
 Next door, in the white chamber, fitted with spacious 
 wash-basins, the great surgeon is taking off his coat. He 
 hangs it outside the room, aRd puts on a sterilised white 
 overall, like a surplice, and a nurse ties the strings at the 
 back of his neck. So endued, the great man irresistibly 
 suggests a bishop. He is, indeed, a High Priest — but of 
 another ministry. The assistant surgeon also attires him- 
 self in a white overall. Both men roll up their sleeves. 
 So does the young house surgeon. Then all three wash 
 and scrub and rinse their hands, again and again. Then 
 they draw on tight india-rubber gloves. 
 
 The soft -footed nurses, who arc also clad in white over- 
 alls, and who have rolled their sleeves to the shoulder, pass 
 noiselessly to and fro, making the final disposition of cases
 
 no LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON .SHAME. 
 
 of instruments, basins, and glass bowls of pale blue disin- 
 fectant. Three or four doctors enter, change their coats 
 for overalls, and engage in subdued talk with the great 
 surgeon. They have come to see him perform, as a master 
 craftsman . 
 
 The operating theatre has a wide and high" north light, 
 like a studio. The walls are tiled, the ceiling is painted 
 glistening white, the floor is laid in mosaic. The students' 
 gallery is faced in white marble, and the guard-rails are of 
 polished brass. In the centre of the room is the operating- 
 table, whose top is a sheet of burnished copper, and which 
 is fitted with wheels and levers to raise and lower and in- 
 cline. At the foot of the table and round the walls are 
 ranged glass -topped tables bearing basins and bowls and 
 instruments, dressings and chemicals, each in its appointed 
 place. There are three or four nurses, each of whom 
 knows precisely what she has to do, and exactly when to 
 do it. 
 
 The patient, who is now wholly unconscious, is wheeled 
 in from the anaesthetic room adjoining. A rod is run 
 through loops in the bedding on which he lies, on each 
 side, he is lifted bodily upon the operating table, and the 
 bed is wheeled out. The nurses are busy about the help- 
 less figure, and the ansestheticist sits at its head, his hand 
 upon the covering that fits over the face. A glass table 
 stands at his elbow, bearing certain little bottles. From 
 one, he now and again shakes a few drops upon the cover- 
 ing that hides the patient's face, save the chin and a patch 
 of darkly flushed temple. In this clean white shrine, in 
 which the surgeon is about to pit his skill and science and 
 tried resolution against no less an enemy than death him- 
 self, there is perfect quiet and absolute order. There are 
 no instructions issued — there is no need for them. The 
 forces are drilled to perfection, 
 
 In the antechamber, the great surgeon, adjusting his 
 gloves, ends the story he is telling. His face becomes 
 grave, the eyes suddenly alert. He walks into the theatre, 
 together with the assistant surgeon and the house surgeon,
 
 SURGICAL. in 
 
 and followed by the doctors. He takes his place at one 
 side of the prone figure ; the assistant surgeon stands on 
 the other side, the house surgeon, with three or four nurses, 
 at the foot, beside the semi-circle of glass tables which 
 carry implements and apparatus . The surgeon takes a little 
 shining knife, and begins. He is perfectly cool and un- 
 hurried, and every deft manipulation is characterised by 
 the same unfaltering decision. The various instruments 
 which he requires seem to arrive in his hand by magic. As 
 he works, the assistant surgeon clips the ends of arteries 
 with long steel clips. There is hardly any effusion of 
 blood . No one says anything at all . The nurses beside the 
 glass tables are all quietly busy, handing this, receiving 
 that, exactly at the right moment. Presently there is a 
 pause. The great surgeon, his face a little upturned, his 
 eyes on vacancy, his mouth tightening, his right hand feel- 
 ing — feeling. He has a picture in his head, clear to the 
 least detail of anatomy, and his fingers are following that 
 picture. The whole scene is for the moment curiously 
 ecclesiastical— the upraised countenance of the high priest, 
 the white vestments, the grave, attentive faces all looking 
 one way, the silence. . . . The next moment it is broken 
 up ; the great surgeon, his agile, sure fingers at work 
 again, looks round and explains what he has found, in a 
 sentence or two. A word, and an electric lamp is held 
 over the cavity in that dark house of life, while he com- 
 pletes his work. Then with, pliers and curved needles, 
 both surgeons begin to stitch. " Tell the next case to be 
 ready," says the great man. He draws out the last needle, 
 lays it on the glass table, and walks away. Within twenty 
 minutes he has explored the patient's interior mechanism, 
 found a something that clogged it, removed that something, 
 cleansed the machinery, and sewn up the incision. The 
 nurses arc again busy about the still figure, preparing it 
 for its removal to the ward. All the while, the anaesthe- 
 ticist, his watchful lingers busy about the helpless head 
 and fa< <•, has sat there, with composed and vigilant face.
 
 H2 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 Now he rises, and within the next ten minutes he is sitting 
 there as before, at the head of another still figure. 
 
 Thrice again does the great surgeon perform the same 
 miracle which — unlike some other miracles — comes off. 
 Four duels, with death as protagonist, does he fight that 
 afternoon, in the dizzying, fume -laden atmosphere, under 
 concentrated pressure. Then he goes quietly away. There 
 are many chances to one that within three weeks or 
 a month those prone figures will be out again in the sun- 
 shine, alive and well. To how many homes does the sur- 
 geon bring unutterable relief from the great dread — to how 
 many does he secure years of happiness ? His rewards, 
 measured in money, are often great ; and who would not 
 heap him with wealth, if that were all ? But he is debited 
 with a score of gratitude that can never be paid — the grati- 
 tude of the poor.
 
 CULTURE. 113 
 
 XX.—CULTURE. 
 
 " - Mind and matter,' said the lady in the wig, ' glide swiftly into 
 the vortex of immensity. Howls the sublime, and softly sleeps the 
 calm Ideal, in the whispering chambers of Imagination. To hear it, 
 sweet it is. But then, outlaughs the stern philosopher, and saith 
 to the Grotesque, What ho I arrest for me that Agency. Go, bring 
 it here I And so the vision fadeth.'" 
 
 The lecturer, who would seem to be of foreign extrac- 
 tion, shakes hands at the door with each of his extremely- 
 select audience, as she — for they are nearly all ladies — 
 arrives at the door of the lecture-room. The grace of 
 the ceremony is a little marred by the pre-occupation of 
 the lecturer, who, for reasons known only to himself, is 
 excessively anxious to discover the representatives of the 
 Press, before they enter the hushed chamber of philosophy. 
 A gigantic and magnificent footman, in powder and plush 
 small-clothes, ushers the distinguished audience to their 
 seats. 
 
 The majority are late. " I suppose," says one silken lady 
 to her neighbour in furs, " he said a quarter to so that we 
 should all be here by a quarter-past." But she knew, and 
 we all knew, that the lecturer would be delighted to 
 welcome these humble seekers after truth at any hour. 
 The carpeted room, with the marble mantelpiece and the 
 palms on the platform, was filled from side to side, and 
 the assiduous footman had to place chairs in the doorway 
 and out into the hall. The sibilant chatter subsided into 
 a reverent silence as the lecturer mounted the platform. 
 
 " Your Highness, your Grace — ladies and gentlemen." 
 This is an impressive opening, indeed ; but the lecturer — 
 modest man- makes nothing of it. He is used to it. We 
 all pretend we are used to it, also. " The subject for the 
 
 L.P.L.S. I
 
 ii4 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 day is ' Plato's Idea of the Relation of Body to' Spirit.' " 
 The speaker then tactfully explained that Plato, far from 
 being a difficult or an esoteric author, was in the habit 
 of directing his discourses to plain gentlemen, men of the 
 world, persons of affairs — like Glaucon or Ariston, says the 
 lecturer, carelessly. The inference is that we (like 
 Glaucon and Ariston) are wholly competent to apprehend 
 the sage. But it now appears that we are all "agitated 
 by problems." Are we? We don't look like it. True ; 
 but the English are a reserved nation. 
 
 We are all (proceeds the lecturer) agitated concerning 
 the problems of (say) education and — and, in fact, national 
 life. There is an immense, stolid, fresh-faced clergyman 
 who seems particularly gratified by this generous assump- 
 tion. The rest of the audience are merely rigid — respect- 
 fully rigid. As we are agitated, the lecturer goes on to 
 explain that Plato, rightly understood, may, in fact, will, 
 supply " a handle to the knife with which we may attack 
 the' concrete ' ' — which as satisfying, if obscure . The speaker 
 illustrates this point. Many quite ordinary ladies and 
 gentlemen, says he, can, and do, compose beautiful melo- 
 dies ; but " they can't put the bass." Only the great com- 
 poser can do that, it seems. Now, Plato puts the bass. 
 It is for us to put the melody. And there you are, all 
 complete. Life is now an intelligible business. Apply the 
 resultant composition to the problems that agitate, and they 
 will be resolved. ,(" You wouldn't," says Ernest in the 
 play, " have me eat muffins in an agitated manner? ") 
 
 ■'■'• Now," demands the lecturer firmly, " what did Plato 
 say about matter? " Apparently he had no notion of the 
 value of matter. He disdained it. He said it was of secon- 
 dary importance. He said it was " low." He regarded 
 not the beauty of the female body — which, said the lecturer, 
 parenthetically, really was very beautiful — nor the 
 ■'power " of the male body. Therefore we say to Plato, 
 " Now, look here, Plato, what is it that you really mean? " 
 Plato is understood to reply, in effect, that the most perfect 
 state will be that in which the philosopher is king, and the
 
 CULTURE. 115 
 
 king philosopher. That remarkable utterance, said the lec- 
 turer, is Plato's great title to glory. Why? Because it 
 was a prophecy, fulfilled in the existence of the Roman 
 Catholic Church. This is a little startling, but no one is 
 startled. We are here to learn. The lecturer admitted 
 that the Catholic Church " was not quite perfect " — still, 
 it came as near perfection as might reasonably be expected 
 — a " very close rapprochement." Plato, we begin to 
 see, was a great man. He made nothing of demolishing 
 the theories of other philosophers. He " sneered " at the 
 "atoms of Democritus." "What," he says, "are your 
 atoms ? " 
 
 Still, we are to remember that the Greeks, despite Plato's 
 " disdain " of matter, had " an excessive bodily beauty." 
 The lecturer supported this statement by a quotation from 
 a Chinese encyclopaedia, and that point was clearly settled. 
 " Humanity," continued the speaker, " is infinitely superior 
 to anything else in nature— that, I am afraid, is true." 
 Why was he afraid ? We do not know, especially as the 
 lecturer went on to point out that " he is par excellence 
 spirit— not par excellence body." Somewhat inconsis- 
 tently, he proceeded to argue that, as matter did not exist, 
 or only, as it were, partially, we could not understand man, 
 because you cannot understand the non-existent. Still less, 
 it seems, can you understand a plant. The lecturer was 
 able to conceive it possible that someone, some day, might 
 understand Napoleon ; but no one would ever understand 
 the humble violet. These truths were forgotten in the last 
 century. A great wave of materialism swept over the 
 world. Huxley, Darwin, and Haeckel— to name but these 
 — were responsible for this disaster. There was even a 
 German scientist— the word itself was a " horrible neolo- 
 gism " — w ho sank so low as to affirm that " man is what 
 he is." The lecturer, it would seem, implied that if the 
 German scientist had said that man is what he is not, he 
 would hav<- had the authority of Plato at his learned back. 
 It was Plato, also, who inspired the early Christian Fathers 
 with their disdain, dislike, contempt, abhorrence, and dis- 
 
 I 2
 
 1 1 6 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 gust of the human body — even of the female human body, 
 which, said the lecturer, though the most beautiful of all 
 bodies, they regarded as " the taproot of evil." 
 
 •What we had now to do was to apply the Platonic teach- 
 ing — to make it a living thing. Let us apply it to the pro- 
 blems of the day. Let us apply it, for instance, to Christian 
 Science. The lecturer did so, at some length, and in the 
 upshot " Plato was seen to smile." Let us now apply it, 
 to (say) phrenology. Again we applied it in detail, and 
 again Plato was seen to smile, and he was also heard to 
 remark that since his time there had been mighty little 
 progress. Let us now apply the Platonic idea to the in- 
 fluence of climate on character. This would be a useful 
 subject for discussion. If climate was proved to affect 
 character, then matter acted on spirit, and — so it would 
 appear — the Platonic idea would be exploded. If not, not. 
 In other words, is matter existent, or non-existent? 
 
 The lecturer sat down, amid respectful applause. No 
 one seeming eager to begin the discussion, he rose again 
 to announce that, referring to some letters he had received, 
 he was glad to say that one lady was perfectly right in her 
 explanation of the existence of Shakespeare ; and another 
 in stating that in the case of expatriated persons, " the 
 universal acted upon them in a troubled medium." This 
 was eminently satisfactory ; and so encouraging that 'a'gen- 
 tleman with a foreign accent was moved to ask, " How 
 about French Canadians?" After some disjointed dis- 
 cussion — during which a gentleman who cried " Im- 
 perialism " was politely ignored — it appeared that French 
 Canadians were still French because they lived — so to 
 speak — with one another. Plato was vindicated, because the 
 climate had not caused them to forget their own language. 
 We then, by the same devious route, arrived at the con- 
 clusion that the negro, had precisely the same intellect as 
 the white man — climate again defeated, and Plato once 
 more triumphant. And so on, to the end. 
 
 Outside, the long array of motor-cars received their 
 occupants ; who, from out lordly mansions and great ease,
 
 CULTURE. 117 
 
 had thus stepped down to get knowledge, and learn wisdom, 
 I say that such action denotes a beautiful humility. The 
 fact that they were in that room at all, implied that they 
 knew nothing, and knew that they knew it. And if that is 
 not humility, what is? " And so the vision fadeth I "
 
 I 1 8 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 XXI.— SPORT. 
 
 " Fools, they are the only nation 
 Worth men's envy or admiration ; 
 Free from care or sorrow -taking, 
 Selves and others merry-making." 
 
 TENS of thousands pouring steadily through the Palace 
 Station all day : artisans, miners, warehousemen, clerks, 
 shopmen, labourers, soldiers, sailors ; thousands blacken- 
 ing the green grass of the Palace grounds. This is not a 
 Bank holiday crowd. Nor does it carry along with it the 
 characteristics of a race gathering. It is a serious busi- 
 ness they are about to-day. It is the Cup -tie. If there is 
 anything more serious in life than sport is to the north- 
 countryman that thing has yet to be discovered. Among a 
 hundred thousand or more, there must needs be a few who 
 have taken their liquor unawares. I desire to be strictly 
 accurate. I saw only two. They were asleep under a fir 
 tree, and nothing but dynamite would have moved them. 
 I regret to add that they slept throughout the match which 
 they had travelled two or three hundred miles to see. 
 
 A vast amphitheatre, banked about with faces, solid, even 
 slopes of mottled pink, ringed with trees just flushed with 
 green, roofed with the grey and broken sky, and floored 
 with shaven turf — that is the picture. All between the ropes 
 and the lowest tier of seats is a moving mass of people. 
 The whole air is jagged with the north -country accent, 
 through which the strains of the band fitfully penetrate. 
 
 A pair of mountebanks come leaping through the crowd ; 
 the one in the black and white of Newcastle, with a pick 
 on his shoulder, the other in the blue and white of Everton, 
 and both twirling huge parti -coloured umbrellas. There 

 
 SPORT. 119 
 
 is something that utterly bewilders in the contemplation of 
 those still dark -pink watching hills of faces. It is remark- 
 able that no one person considers himself as a part of the 
 crowd. Each one instinctively, as it were, in self-defence, 
 clings to his identity. He thinks of himself as one unit ; 
 and of the crowd, deducting himself from it, as another 
 unit. But the most remarkable aspect of the immense 
 multitude is its universal good temper. We are all sports- 
 men to-day. Presently the whole multitude is seated, and 
 the space about the ropes is clear. 
 
 A — h — h ! A moment, and the level turf is sprinkled over 
 with powerful, lithe men in black-and-white striped shirts 
 and shirts of violet blue. The teams are on the ground. 
 A vast ripple spreads over the banked faces, upon which 
 extended umbrellas, white and blue and white and black, 
 suddenly appear like agitated mushrooms . There is a great 
 wave of cheering, suddenly subsiding as two of the oppos- 
 ing teams stand together in the centre of the ground and 
 toss for ends. Everton wins. ,The Everton team have 
 the wind and sun at their backs. The men scatter to their 
 places, and the contest has begun. 
 
 Thenceforward, to one unskilled in the points of the 
 game, the arena is a battlefield in which brawny men run to 
 and fro with astonishing swiftness, collide with an impact 
 that flings one head over heels to pick himself up like a cat, 
 and kick the ball in the act of rising ; in which the ball, 
 travelling through a high parabola, alights infallibly upon 
 a head placed precisely at the one spot in the universe, at 
 the one second of time at which ball and head could possi- 
 bly meet, and so bounds from head to head, the men leaping 
 four feet in air, the whole length of the field ; in which, of 
 two men racing madly side by side, one juggles the ball 
 from the other with the skill of a conjurer ; in which, 
 among men kicking their own height at a falling ball, one 
 receives a boot on the side of his head, and betrays not the 
 least emotion ; in which the ball, Hying into the goal from 
 out a whirling knot of legs and arms, is struck by the goal- 
 keeper over the bar behind him, and the audience roars,
 
 120 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 and the roar dies down, and from here and there a single 
 voice rings hoarsely, and silence falls as the game begins 
 again. 
 
 But to one who came to see the crowd as well as the 
 game — always with that singular snobbish reservation of 
 being in it, but not of it — what is most notable is not the 
 noise but the silence of the crowd. Those thousands and 
 thousands of eyes follow every shift and slightest incident 
 of the game. Those thousands and thousands of keen 
 sportsmen know each player and tell over his record and 
 reckon his capacities. He is their representative. He is 
 fighting for their town, and very likely for their money too, 
 but for their town before all. This is really not a gladia- 
 torial show, as many worthy persons ignorantly suppose, 
 but a display of intense local patriotism.. And these patriots 
 for the most part play the game themselves, or have played 
 it — not a doubt of that. True, the men who are fighting 
 for their respective towns are paid professionals, which is 
 a pity. But the point is, you could not maintain the finest 
 talent without paying for it. And now both sides are keep- 
 ing silence, bent on seeing that the game is played fairly 
 and without interruption. There have been exceptions, of 
 course, but the principle is there. 
 
 Half-time. No goal scored on either side. Everton men 
 gloomy because their chaps have not scored, though wind 
 and sun were in their favour ; Newcastle men sombre be- 
 cause their chaps have been hardly pressed. Once more. 
 Again the flying ball, the leaping men, the tremendous 
 kicking of the backs, with a sounding slap, and the ball 
 soaring nearly the length of the ground, a race on the 
 wings, a huddle of struggling men — a goal to Everton. The 
 banked crowd rises in long waves, and roars with a fusillade 
 of clapping, and as suddenly subsides into intense vigilance 
 as the game starts again. Another vast heaving of the 
 pink slopes, and another great noise — an interval of frantic 
 play on both sides — and Jhe whistle goes. All is done. 
 Everton has the Cup ! 
 
 The banks disintegrate and flow down upon the level,
 
 SPORT. 121 
 
 and close about the players, and the whole mass surges 
 upon the pavilion. A pause, a voice speaking, then a blue- 
 shirted man is hoisted aloft, holding up a great silver cup, 
 this way and that, and is again swallowed up amid cheer- 
 ing. " No doubt but the best team won it," said every- 
 body. Home again, hundreds of miles, victors and van- 
 quished alike imperturbably jovial. They went back, as 
 they came, singing or sound asleep. 
 
 Now, is there another country can show the like ? And 
 if we can do these things for our towns — and grim, oppres- 
 sive, murky, grinding towns they are — cannot we do the 
 like for the larger issue ? Football is a fine sport, no doubt ; 
 but one must needs reflect that it would be even finer if the 
 professional element were abolished, and that the thousands 
 of pounds which are yearly expended in maintaining the 
 professional games' clubs might be used in a better game 
 still. What are the lads waiting for? Do they want a 
 better lead than Lord Roberts has given them ?
 
 122 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 XXII.— THE YACHT RACE. 
 
 " But for all I have given thee, beauty enough is thine, 
 As thou, aslant with trim tackle and shrouding, 
 From the proud nostril curve of a prow's line 
 
 In the offing scatterest foam, thy white sails crowding." 
 
 " Up mainsail ! " The group of men about the mast 
 bend and haul together. " Aho ! Aha ! Walk her up ! 
 Aho ! Aha ! " The vast expanse of canvas rises majesti- 
 cally from the boom, fold upon fold, the topman standing 
 on the gaff, and rising with it, until the great sail fills the 
 whole prospect, and the topman, high in air, swings agile 
 as a monkey amid the intricacy of ropes. This is the day 
 of the great race, and the first-class racing cutter is putting 
 to sea. 
 
 The captain, a spare, bearded figure, with deep -set eyes, 
 brooding yet vigilant, glowing under tufted eyebrows, 
 stands beside the wheel, contemplating the sailors that 
 hurry among the litter of sails and cordage, with a superb 
 composure. Up goes the jackyard, the huge sail fitting 
 fanwise between the top of the mainsail and the topmast. 
 Its yard needs four men to lift it ; but when it is hoisted, 
 and set a hundred and twenty odd feet from the deck, it 
 looks little and delicate like a toy. The foresail is broken 
 out, the stops, the light cords that bind the furled sail, 
 snapped and flying into the air. The yacht begins to travel 
 smoothly down the tide towards the mouth of the river. 
 On either hand, and astern, other racing vessels are shaking 
 out their sails, or gliding beneath a pyramid of canvas. 
 
 The sky to windward clears to a clean blue as the piled 
 wrack is blown away, and the nearer shore is mistily 
 illumined. The radiance broadens, until the sailing boats,
 
 THE YACHT RACE. 123 
 
 far and near, are turned to ships of pearl, and the broad 
 water flashes in full sunshine. The shores recede and grow 
 dim, and a tang of open water stings the nostrils. Ahead, 
 a squat, red lightship is rolling slightly on the long swell, 
 and away to the right the committee steamer lies waiting. 
 Between the two vessels is drawn the imaginary line from 
 which the race must start. 
 
 The full -sailed boats hover uneasily near, like moths 
 about a candle ; drawing nearer, shooting back, crossing 
 and re -crossing. Our two rivals are now on this side, now 
 on that. Now one crosses our bows ; again, we sheer 
 alongside another . She rounds the lightship and goes about . 
 Then we round the lightship and go about. The crowd 
 of lesser craft, which sail in the second race, are gliding 
 hither and thither a little way off. It is a matter of minutes 
 before the starting gun. We round the lightship again, 
 and glide within the line. The captain swiftly turns the 
 wheel : there is a sudden swerve, a shouting of orders, a 
 rushing of men to the ropes — a frenzied endeavour on the 
 part of the spectators to see everything at once — the muffled 
 detonation of a gun. We are off ! 
 
 One of the rival boats draws a little ahead ; the other 
 keeps much on a level. All are running free, with spin- 
 nakers set, so that each has a vast wing stretched on either 
 side. The blustering wind of the early morning has 
 slackened, and the sun burns in an unclouded sky. The 
 yacht slips along through the beaded, coiling water in a 
 silence that is stirred only by the tapping of a wire rope 
 against the hollow steel boom. The hands lie crouched 
 on either side the deck, ready to the ropes. The owner 
 and his guests repose right astern, behind the wheel. Now 
 and again the captain shouts an order, and the recumbent 
 Ballon leap instantly to action, and again subside. 
 
 The yacht sailing on the beam moves upon a column of 
 light that is interfused with her darker reflection. Against 
 the sunshine and the hot, bright sky her curving sails are 
 hued grain -yellow, merging into coloured shadows as of 
 ameth) t and sapphire, glimmering with lights of mellow
 
 124 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 gold. Astern, the smaller vessels are spread in a wide arc 
 upon a shimmering brightness of sea and sky, like moving 
 pavilions, whose billowing folds are delicately washed in 
 tinctures of shining grey and silver, and the opalescence of 
 the sparkling sea ; and, beyond, the sky is veiled in wisps 
 of fleecy lawn. So, we speed imperceptibly, and yet seem 
 motionless, suspended in a dream. 
 
 But the sea -levels are suddenly roughened, and a cool 
 air blows, and the sunlight dims, and the great sails are 
 hauled in a little. One of our rivals has glided further 
 ahead ; the other hangs on the port beam for a while, then 
 she also forges ahead. The leading vessel rounds a light- 
 ship and sweeps away, her tall canvas shape, pointed like a 
 sword, leaning far over. Several minutes later, we round 
 the tossing red vessel, with the wire-covered globes atop 
 of her masts, and — in the memory it seems but a moment — 
 we are beating up against a head wind and a rising sea. 
 The sheets are hauled taut, and the boat heels over, until 
 the water foams along the rail, and you cannot sit on the 
 deck without sliding, unless you get a hold. The men are 
 all lying up to windward, their heads level with the low rail. 
 
 Lying thus on your back, the eye travels up and up the 
 great expanse of canvas, that cuts so clean a line upon the 
 blue, and it is like surveying a wide field as you sit against 
 the hedge. As the wind strengthens, the topmast quivers 
 ever so little, a noise like thunder rattles in the foresail, 
 and now and again the sea strikes the bows, a heavy 
 vibrating blow, and spray flies over the slanting decks. 
 The mate, crouching forward, attentive to the jibsheets, 
 never turns his head or moves when a sea breaks over him. 
 He sits imperturbable and visibly dripping. 
 
 And now remark the captain, who is in sole command of 
 the intricate machine of steel and wood and canvas, 
 launched and flying amid a riot of wind and sea. Leaning 
 forward upon a knee, braced upon a leg to the cant of the 
 streaming deck, his face is quiet like a picture, as he 
 handles the wheel. 
 
 So we forge along, hour after hour, through the hissing
 
 THE VAC I IT RACE. * 125 
 
 seas. Now and again a jib-topsail is lowered, and an- 
 other is hoisted in its place and sheeted home. " Aho-aha I 
 Walk her in, boys ! All together ! " Now and again the 
 captain shouts an order, and the prone, wet men scramble 
 to the ropes. " Up to wind'ard again, sonnies — up to 
 wind'ard," says the captain ; and once more they lie in a 
 row against the rail. And at intervals : " Lee — O I " the 
 furious hauling at the ropes, the swift turn of the vessel, 
 the cascading water, and again the rail rushing under 
 through leaping seas. And all the time, save when he 
 lends a hand, the owner lies up to windward against the rail, 
 wet, bareheaded, serenely happy. 
 
 Sometimes the yacht ahead seems to be nearer, some- 
 times further away ; while the other boat now overhauls 
 us, and again passes close astern as she goes about on the 
 other tack, showing her red undcrbody like a wallowing 
 fish, as she heels far over. She is racing neck and neck 
 with us ; and so, for the matter of that, is the leading 
 boat, for she has to give a time allowance. As for the 
 smaller boats of the second race, they are left behind and 
 lost to sight in the driving spume. 
 
 It is late afternoon, and the long curve of the weather 
 rail darkens upon a wild sunset, shot with flying gleams of 
 sunlight. " Lee — O ! " Round she goes, and there are 
 the shining field of angry sea, flecked with white, and the 
 clustered town upon the dim foreland, and far ahead, the 
 tall spectre of the leading yacht, swift flitting into twilight. 
 She rounds the last lightship and is gone. 
 
 The vague bulk of coast upon the starboard hand slides 
 past, and beyond the foreland glimmer white scarps of cliff. 
 A sailor, knee - deep in water, heaves the lead, deftly 
 swinging the weight forward. Another hand, kneeling 
 beside the shrouds, catrhes the line as it is dragged astern, 
 He checks it, and hauls it in. He has a fresh pink face, his 
 fair hair plastered wet on his forehead, and one eye that 
 teems ever to be taking aim at something, while the other 
 is halt shut. " Quarter less live," he sings. 
 
 I ee — O," calls the captain. The leadsman chucks the
 
 126 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 line across the deck as it tips up, and the owner, sliding 
 across to take a hand on the jib -sheets, slips on the line, 
 and slides half overboard, the rushing torrent taking him to 
 the knees . He catches at the fore - sheet and saves 
 himself. 
 
 If any one must fall overboard, the owner had best be 
 that person, since the rules compel the captain to stop, if 
 a man fall overboard, and to try to pick him up. The delay 
 would lose the race, or, at any rate, spoil it. There was 
 once a captain who warned his owner to be careful where 
 he sat. The owner disregarded that counsel, and toppled 
 overboard. The captain shouted to the vessel next astern 
 to pick that silly person up as — said he — for himself, he 
 had no time to stop . 
 
 It is a question of two or three minutes, now. The 
 leading ship must have passed the line. Our other rival 
 is tacking level with us. Yonder is the last lightship. We 
 cannot reach her with what is, I believe, called a long leg 
 — we must tack again, and yet again. It is deep water close 
 under the scarred white cliffs, and we sweep inwards till 
 the little stones on the beach are plain to see, and then we 
 go about. 
 
 The captain, still wholly imperturbable, glances aloft, 
 glances ahead. Can he fetch the lightship next time he 
 goes about ? If he can, he will gain on our rival, who 
 must make another tack. " Lee — O ! " Round she goes, 
 and over she heels, till the water boils half-way up the 
 deck. The lightship rushes nearer and nearer — we can 
 round her — here she is ! Her square stern is bobbing 
 within a few feet of the sail, and a group of men is seen 
 for a passing moment. They are all shouting. "Fourteen 
 minutes ! " The leading ship passed fourteen minutes ago. 
 We are that space of time behind. But, according to the 
 time allowance, we have three or four minutes in hand. 
 The other craft is safely astern . 
 
 A long leg, a short leg, another long leg, and there is the 
 mark -boat. Round we go, and the gun booms. Instantly 
 the yacht rises and poises herself upon a nearly even keel,
 
 THE YACHT RACE. 127 
 
 like a creature at last released from an intolerable strain. 
 So, we glide into the harbour, where lies the leading vessel, 
 her masts already bare, the men snugging the sails. 
 
 The race had lasted nearly eight hours. For between 
 nine and ten hours the captain had not quitted the wheel, 
 save for two or three minutes at a time. The anchor down, 
 he walks forward, his face sharpened and set, his eyes, 
 red-rimmed, retired deep into his head, but wholly im- 
 perturbable still. He has won a hard race of over fifty 
 miles by two minutes and a fraction.
 
 128 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 XXIII.— MARGATE. 
 
 " Nor can it touch but of arrogant ignorance, to hold this or that 
 nation barbarous, these or those times gross, considering how this 
 manifold creature,' man, wheresoever he stand in the world, hath 
 always some disposition of worth, entertains and affects that order 
 of society which is best for his use, and is eminent for some one 
 thing or other that fits his humour and the times." 
 
 It is the Saturday before Bank Holiday, and all the 
 world is moving out. The two big steamers below London 
 Bridge are crammed, from rail to rail, with a speckled mass 
 of humanity and luggage. It is not yet nine o'clock, when 
 they cast off ; but the steep ways leading down to the pier 
 between tall warehouses are littered with people who cannot 
 get aboard. They sit resignedly on portmanteaus, and feed 
 their children out of paper bags, waiting on events . They 
 are bound for Margate, and goodness knows when they 
 will get there. So brief a holiday, and the hours already 
 slipping away, and here they are — a pathetic spectacle. 
 
 Down at Margate, there are hundreds of happy, bare- 
 legged children playing on the sand. Scores of family 
 groups are assembled there, among the bathing-machines 
 and the donkeys, and the men in white caps selling eatables. 
 The esplanade runs left and right, and there, sparkling in 
 the broad sunlight, are the curved stone jetty and the little 
 lighthouse, and the cliff rising beyond. There is a strong 
 tendency to saunter, hatless, and arm-in-arm with a friend 
 or two, up and down the esplanade. Having bathed, there 
 is nothing else to do whatever, except to have your photo- 
 graph taken, for which achievement an artist is available 
 every three or four yards. But, then, no one wants to do 
 anything else. Here are sun and air and society, and — 
 above all — freedom from London.
 
 .MARGATE. 129 
 
 A cloud glooms above the cliff ; the sun is blotted out ; 
 and there is a violent rush of rain. Inside three minutes 
 the sands are swept clear, save for deserted chairs. One 
 solitary man is left conspicuous. He was dressing his small 
 boy, who had been bathing, when the rain plumped upon 
 them. A forlorn and streaming figure, he is desperately 
 striving to clothe the child and dry him, and to use a 
 hammock chair as an umbrella, all at once. Then the sun 
 shines out, and cheerful people with clinging garments 
 paddle home to lunch. 
 
 The steamer from London is late. The pier-head is 
 crowded with people awaiting their relatives, and with other 
 people whose holiday is done, and who must steam away 
 home again. Here are mothers of families, with bags and 
 bundles and more children than one can count ; portentous, 
 knock-kneed youths in knickerbockers ; cheerful young 
 women who sit on a rail and swing high -heeled shoes, the 
 while they converse with elegant young men ; and the 
 inevitable, red-faced, elderly gentleman morosely smoking 
 a cigar encircled by a gilt paper band. 
 
 The steamer draws alongside, and every one presses to 
 the railings at the pier-head. 
 
 " Where's father? I don't see father." 
 
 " He's setting down, most prob'ly. Trust father to make 
 himself comfortable. Why, there he is I And uncle I " 
 Shrill cries of greeting, and jfrantic waving to indistin- 
 guishable figures in the dense crowd aboard. 
 
 The holiday people surge slowly up the steps and mingle 
 with the multitude, the while the homeward - bound 
 voyagers struggle down other steps, laden with bags and 
 bundles and boxes and children. They have been waiting 
 for two hours ; they have had no lunch ; they are harassed 
 and encumbered and crowded ; yet all are perfectly good 
 humoured. 
 
 " Where's our Johnny? There he is with mother. All 
 ri^ht, Johnny. Jenny, you keep with auntie. Give me 
 oik- of tin hi bags, and I'll carry the child, too." 
 
 L.P.L.S. K
 
 130 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 Johnny and Jenny are lost among a forest of legs, pushed 
 and hustled and trampled on, despite all precaution . Johnny, 
 attired in a blue plush suit and a white falling collar, is 
 hoisted on a friendly shoulder, while his grandmother holds 
 her own in front. She is a brown, sturdy old lady, and she 
 carries a bag of incredible weight, without apparent dis- 
 tress. Her married daughter follows, carrying Jenny, three 
 bags, and a paper parcel. Then comes auntie, carrying 
 another child, leading a fourth, and also laden to the dust 
 with luggage. The courage and endurance of the family is 
 amazing. No cabs for them . When they travel, they carry 
 the whole of their possessions. Aboard the boat, they en- 
 camp on a seat, and immediately begin to partake of the 
 refreshments which are contained in the paper bags . Nearly 
 every one is eating out ,of paper bags. The mere fact of 
 sitting on the deck of a steamer seems to excite their 
 appetite. Besides, eating keeps the children quiet. 
 
 The boat casts off, and happy Margate, with its huddled 
 houses and bright, crowded sands and white -painted pier, 
 slides astern. We are a quiet assembly on board to-day, 
 partly because there are very few young men among the 
 passengers, and partly because our holidays are done. 
 
 The stout old gentleman sitting to windward ties a silk 
 handkerchief over his old wife's head, and wraps her in a 
 fur jacket. She peers mournfully through spectacles from 
 under the handkerchief. I think this couple are French. 
 The old boy sits hatless until his bald head cannot bear the 
 sun and spray any longer, when he ties knots in his hand- 
 kerchief and makes a cap of it, a loose end tickling his 
 nose. He grins, lights a pipe, and settles himself for the 
 afternoon . 
 
 There is an innocent, wholesome pair of young lovers 
 who have escaped from relatives to a place apart. He is 
 stealthily holding her hand, the while she insensibly leans 
 upon him. He is a fair - haired, square - faced boy of 
 eighteen or twenty ; she, a pretty, graceful creature, with 
 a pleasant, kind face. The trouble of these two is that the
 
 MARGATE. 131 
 
 rest of the party will come and talk to them. There are 
 another girl, slender and black-haired and cheery, and two 
 younger maidens. One or other is always running up to 
 the lovers. They watch their chance and slip away to 
 another resting-place. They are not annoyed — they are 
 much too good-natured and too fond of the others to be 
 angry. But they get no peace until one of the little girls 
 turns a dreadful yellow, and collapses upon her black- 
 haired sister's shoulder. 
 
 " She's always like that," says the black - haired one, 
 cheerfully. " She's like it in a train — just as bad." 
 
 What is that large pink disk resting upright on the end 
 of the bench yonder? It is the bald head of a stout gen- 
 tleman who has fallen sound asleep, end-on to the specta- 
 tor. Opposite to him, lying side by side on a luggage 
 trolley, are an elderly lady and gentleman, also slumber- 
 ing, their upturned faces scorching in the sun to a lively 
 crimson. 
 
 Sitting to leeward, on a trunk, is a lady who, in some 
 indefinable respect, differs singularly from her surround- 
 ings. She has a thin, aquiline face, touched by the sun, 
 and a quantity of light hair, much streaked with grey. Her 
 blue eyes have a curious, intent look, that is fixed for a 
 moment or two, and then suddenly glances away. Her 
 dress is of some floating light material, conveying a general 
 impression of loose ends and frills. One of the men in the 
 service of the company that owns the boat, who is shifting 
 luggage, bangs down a box close beside the lady. " Mind 
 your face, my girl," says this refined official to the poor, 
 startled woman. She glances about her with that scared 
 look, and takes refuge in a corner beneath the bridge. Who 
 is she? What is she? We shall never know. Life is but 
 a game of hide-and-seek. 
 
 Off the starboard bow lies the red lightship of the Nore, 
 and the low hills close in on either hand. Cargo-boats, 
 black -hulled to the water-line, and red -sailed barges are 
 coming down with the tide. We are in the river now, the 
 
 K 2
 
 132 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 wide waterway that leads into the heart of the immense 
 wilderness of London. Astern, the lucent water ripples 
 into a great, dim field of sea, speckled here and there with 
 ships, and a whitening glint of sails. Ahead, the black 
 figure of a schooner under full sail is graven upon a shining 
 mist, or vapour, that drifts across a radiance of gold. The 
 low shore, meadow and tree and red -roofed barn, lie bathed 
 in that transparent effulgence of the declining sun. Nearer 
 hand, a little yacht slides past, and the broad water is set 
 with tiny sails . So peaceful is this silent avenue to the dark 
 and roaring city, this gentle flood shining and bubbling 
 between the solitary expanse of fields, all bathed in a be- 
 nignant amplitude of light, lulled into a profound serenity. 
 
 But the town draws nearer and nearer. The light insen- 
 sibly darkens. The sleepers on deck awake, and get to 
 their feet, and blink at the prospect. Here is Tilbury, the 
 pier a solid mass of waiting passengers. Now for the be- 
 ginning of strife. 
 
 Grandmother clutched Johnny, a friendly man took her 
 bag — it bowed him to the ground — mother took Jenny and 
 an incredible weight of baggage, auntie took the rest. So, 
 through the crowd, and along the roofed passage, "to the 
 train for London. The ticket collector told each person, 
 as he struggled past, not to get into the train. No one 
 knows why. Probably the ticket man, in the stress of 
 crowds, had lost his reason — and small wonder . The 
 friendly man, by extraordinary exertions, conveyed the 
 grandmother to a carriage. She was about to enter, when 
 a huge, filthy, hulking brute of a workman shoved her 
 aside. The friendly man lost his temper. He collared 
 the brute, who only saved himself from being flung on his 
 back by catching at the framework of the carriage. 
 
 "■ Who are you a -clawing of ? " he demanded, with fury. 
 ^ I'll teach you to come a -clawing of me I " 
 
 " Come out, and I'll teach you manners," said his 
 assailant, who was busy packing grandmother and the rest 
 into the next carriage. But, sad to say, the other declined
 
 MARGATE. » 133 
 
 the invitation, and another opportunity for teaching a little 
 common civility was lost for ever. 
 
 In an adjoining carriage, a thin lady, with a flushed face, 
 was in a high state of indignation. " I don't know if my 
 luggage is in or not," she said. " Let them not put it in — 
 that's all I I'll sue them, I will ! I'll get every penny 
 back, same as I did from the South -Western. Look at the 
 way we've been treated I Waiting two hours on the pier, 
 and never had the decency to tell us the boat would be late, 
 so that we could get a bit pf lunch, and then hustled and 
 crowded, and no one to say where we were to go — I call it 
 disgraceful. I shall write to the papers. " 
 
 A weary man in the corner hazarded an observation to 
 the effect " they was treating people all of a pack, like, 
 being so crowded." 
 
 " Never no more steamers for me," said the lady ; " such 
 treatment I never saw and will not stand. I was feeling so 
 unwell I had to go down into the saloon and drink a glass 
 of brandy and lay down. That reminds me — I never read 
 the paper, though I bought it." 
 
 She waxed confidential over some mysterious transac- 
 tions connected with tram tickets. Each one began to talk 
 at once. 
 
 A little girl sitting beside the wayfarer looked up at him 
 and smiled. " What funny people these elders are I " That 
 was what she was thinking. Her round freckled face, and 
 clear blue eyes, and little white teeth, and her artless 
 chatter, refreshed like a charm. 
 
 " Yes, we've been a fortnight at Margate, and I don't 
 much mind going home ; not very much. We don't live 
 in London ; we live at Purfleet. In the street where the 
 big clock is — you know. I've got five weeks more holiday. 
 I have ! Seven weeks altogether — isn't it a long time ? I 
 don't mind school. I like it. There's not only lessons, 
 ordinary 1' , you know, but we learn about bot'ny, and 
 
 in < ■< ts, and flower, and frogs — awfully int 'resting. I learn 
 dancing, too."
 
 134 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 Her mother, a tall, prim lady with a frosty grey eye, 
 peered nervously round the elbow of the seat, but she did 
 not arrest our little conversation. Presently the two got 
 out, and vanished in the thickening twilight. 
 
 A long bright bar of sunset shone beyond the appalling 
 desert of East -end degradation, as the train crawled across 
 the roofs. The net was closing in upon us, and the night 
 was falling.
 
 THE GENERAL. 135 
 
 XXIV.— THE GENERAL. 
 
 " He's called the General from the dash and craft 
 And skill with which he sneaks a bit of road." 
 
 The driver, rolling leisurely out of the yard, appeared 
 to consider his boots with a scrupulous attention. He 
 was a fresh - faced man, of a portly habit. He wore 
 a dust - coloured coat with pearl buttons, and his hat 
 was slightly tilted over one eye. He settled himself de- 
 liberately into his wrappings with the air of one doggedly 
 competent to face the world. 
 
 " I've never cleaned my own boots since I was married," 
 he observed, i{ and that's seventeen years ago. There's the 
 advantage of a good wife. My wife, she's first-class. Nor 
 I don't see as why I should clean my own boots, neither. 
 I ain't got time. Home about midnight, and out again 
 by seven in the morning — that's it. That don't leave a 
 man much time at home, do it ? I should think not. 
 There's passengers of mine what rides with me first thing 
 in the morning, like it might be now, and when they sees 
 me again the last thing at night — why, they think as I've 
 had a rest in between. They never think as it's the 
 same man all the time, you see. Ah, there ain't no trade 
 what works longer hours than what we 'bus men do. Why 
 do men take up the job, you'd wonder? Well, there's 
 many youngsters whose 'ole ambition it is to sit up aloft 
 and drive a pair of horses, and dress in a smart coat with 
 big buttons, and a flower in the buttonhole and a top 'at. 
 That's the finest thin;' in life, they think. I thought so 
 once. ..." Here a rival omnibus sheered alongside out 
 of the roaring press of trafii< and tried to pass us. The
 
 136 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 rival conductor, swaying on his little platform just below, 
 looked up at our driver with his lower lip thrust out. 
 
 "You'd ought to give up trying to drive," he shouted. 
 " Take to selling penny buttonholes on Ludgate-hill 
 again. You know — penny buttonholes ! " An emphatic 
 pantomime, with his upturned thumb upon the lapel of his 
 faded blue coat, illustrated this kindly counsel . " All day 
 long on the kerb — that's what you want. You're lost up 
 there on a box." 
 
 " What about the shoeblack opposite the Mansion 
 House? " retorted our driver, with one eye on his galloping 
 horses and the other on the conductor, who continued to 
 hurl the same insults. "What about 'im ? Go back 
 there. Go back to the old trade, what you understand. 
 Shine, sir, shine? Go back." 
 
 The two huge vehicles surged together, missing collision 
 by an inch or two. Our man gained a little, and came 
 abreast of the other driver. 
 
 I'm as good a coachman as what you are," says our 
 driver, as we passed the other. 
 
 " But there's nothing like the fresh air," he continued, 
 placidly. " It gives a man a relish for his food. Now, 
 I can put in five good meals a day, and ask for more. 
 First, there's the breakfast I has before I starts. My wife, 
 she gives me that — not much, you know, just three or four 
 rashers of bacon and thick slices of bread, and a pot of 
 tea. Then I has what I call my second breakfast when we 
 gets into the yard about eleven, just a bit of bread and 
 cheese, or sausage, or what not, and a cup of cofifee. That 
 has to last me till two o'clock or so, when I has my dinner. 
 There's a cookshop handy to the yard, where I gets a plate 
 of meat, or a beefsteak pudding — something solid, anyway. 
 The trouble with a cookshop is that they're so shy of giving 
 second helps. That's why I likes my meals at home, or 
 to bring the grub along with me, but it ain't always con- 
 venient. Then, as for tea, that comes along about five — 
 bread and butter, and a matter of two or three eggs, or a 
 haddock or so. And generally I seem to want another
 
 THE GENERAL. 137 
 
 tea about seven o'clock, too. A man must be fed, I say. 
 No use in starvation when you're a-working hard. And 
 when I gets home there's supper. Last night it was beef- 
 steak. Not that I has beef -teak every night. But last 
 night my brother came in, and he says to me, ' Bill,' he 
 says, ' let's have a steak.' ' Right,' I says, and we put away 
 two pound and a half between us. I was telling an old 
 lady friend of mine what I'm telling you, ' and Lord help 
 your poor stomach.' she says. ' Don't you worry about 
 that,' I says, ' me and my stomach understands each 
 other.' 
 
 ' But it's expensive, is an appetite, I'll allow. What 
 with rent and insurance, there ain't much to spare out of a 
 man's wages. Eight and six a week rent and two shillings 
 insurance — that's ten and six gone. What I look at is 
 what's to become of the old woman when I'm dead, or laid 
 up, or something. So I keeps up my insurance. You see, 
 we lost our children — lost two in a fortnight. Diphtheria. 
 And I was out of a job at the time, and lost some insurance 
 money, for I dropped behind in my payments. I thought 
 I should have lost my wife too. She wasted away to a 
 shadow, and couldn't eat nothing. ' It's all very well for 
 you,' — she used to say. ' You goes out all day ; I've got to 
 stop at home, an' nothing to do but think.' She was right, 
 I reckon. But she pulled round." 
 
 A huge motor-omnibus came clanking round the corner, 
 and my friend drew his vehicle right across its path. The 
 motor-driver slowed up within a (inger's-breadth of the tail 
 of our omnibus. Neither of the drivers said a word, or 
 altered a line of his face. 
 
 As for them motor-omnibuses," resumed our driver, 
 
 he whipped up his docile horses, " they're things of the 
 
 pa They'll be a taking them all off the roads in a year's 
 
 tin. Look at the expen e of the wear and tear. They 
 
 only an experiment from the first. Now, with hoi 1 , 
 
 you know where you a: J hey may be .slow, but they 
 
 they always goe . do hoi es. Some of our coach 
 
 men they took on the job of driving — poor fellows !
 
 138 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 They're abs'lutely starved with the bitter cold and shook 
 all to pieces. There's a friend of mine what drove a motor- 
 omnibus for six months and turned it up. I met him in 
 the street, and I says, s Why, Joe, you've got the paralytic 
 trembles.' For he was all of a shiver, like, and couldn't 
 keep still. - No more of that there for me,' he says. 
 ' Give me horses,' he says, ' in the future.' And that's 
 what I says too. Why, they fines the poor fellows if the 
 blooming machinery breaks down, what they never taught 
 'em how to manage but only to drive. And there he is 
 a-picking and a-hammering at the roadside, and knowing 
 as he's losing money the 'ole time. They've got no strong 
 union, you see. Nor they ain't likely to have ; what with 
 the motor drivers leaving private service to take on with the 
 companies. Oh, yes, there's a many of them do that. In 
 private service, they says, their work's never done. But 
 on the road they've got their ten hours' driving, and the 
 engineers do the rest. But the 'ole thing's just a fashion, 
 as I was saying. They'll come back to horses, and a good 
 job too. There's nothing better."- 
 
 He edged into a jam of traffic, and pulled up. 
 
 The thin mist that clung about the haggard streets was 
 suddenly disparted as a strong gleam of sun smote upon the 
 block of vehicles. The bright hues of an omnibus, the 
 glossy backs of the horses shone for a moment amid the 
 press of huge motor-vans, steam trollies, staid black 
 electric broughams, and swaggering red-cushioned, brass - 
 bound automobiles. A moment, and the horses and their 
 obsolete vehicle and their sturdy, clever driver were lost 
 to sight.
 
 IMPERIALISM. 139 
 
 XXV.— IMPERIALISM. 
 
 ' To most men argument makes the point in hand more doubtful 
 and considerably less impressive." 
 
 Mr. BURGESS owns one of those discreetly retired shops 
 (which we all know) wherein the only tobacco, the only 
 cigar, and the only cigarette worth smoking may be pur- 
 chased by the judicious. Similarly, there is only one 
 Burgess. 
 
 " Town's very empty," observed Mr. Twells, the portly 
 Bond Street jeweller, affably. He seated himself on the 
 tobacco barrel, while Mr. Burgess filled his gold-rimmed, 
 tortoise-shell snuffbox. 
 
 "Empty?" said Mr. Burgess. " What, ain't the Colonial 
 Premiers here ? Call yourself an imperialist, or what ? " 
 
 " Imperialism," returned Mr. Twells, with chill finality, 
 " has never done us any good, I can tell you that." 
 
 1 You talk like as if it was a dose of salts," said Mr. 
 Burgess, with a fat chuckle. 
 
 '" I mean," continued Mr. Twells, majestically disre- 
 garding the suggestion, " that what we call the one-to-fifty- 
 pound trade has gone, practically gone, sir, since the war. 
 Every one's saying the same. (Not that it affects me, of 
 course.) But I forgot," added Mr. Twells. "You're half 
 a Colonial yourself, Mr. Burgess." 
 
 " Not me," said the stout tobacconist. " I'm a British 
 subject, I am. And Colonial ain't a popular word over 
 der, let me tell you. When you goes a -travelling in the 
 King's dominions, you take and keep that there name 
 buttoned up inside your new waistco.it, Mr. Twells, that's 
 my advice to you. Yes, I been in the Colonies — and I come 
 back. As you see. Livin' good and cheap, too. Yes,
 
 140 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 me and the missis, we went out West. I worked on a farm, 
 d'ye see. Cottage rent-free, and a bit of garden, a cow, 
 and as much poultry as you like. Pigs, too. Use of a 
 horse and buggy when you wanted to go to town. Treated 
 us well, too, our employers did. But I couldn't stick it. 
 I saved a hundred and fifty dollars, and ' I must go home,' 
 I says. They offered me a bit o' land — good land, too — 
 at a low price if I'd stay. 4 Not if you was to take and give 
 it me for nothing I wouldn't. I'm a-going home,' I says. 
 But it's a good country, I don't deny." 
 
 " Didn't you like the work? " asked Mr. Twells. 
 
 " No, I didn't," replied Mr. Burgess, with decision. 
 " Work ! I never see such work in all my life. Up at sun- 
 rise, at it all day till dark, and hard, mind you. No mistake 
 about that . But it wasn't the work, and it wasn't the people . 
 It was somethin' else," said Mr. Burgess, impressively. 
 "• Why," he went on, " I used to find myself out all alone 
 in a vast big field, or in the forest chopping wood and not 
 a soul to speak to for hours and hours. Lonely ? Might as 
 well 'a been a insect." 
 
 " Ah ! " said Mr. Twells, taking snuff. -" So that's your 
 Imperialism? "' 
 
 "No, don't you run away with that idea," said Mr. 
 Burgess. "You don't know, because you haven't seen. 
 I have. I been most all over the world, in my time. I 
 was in the war, too — can't say I fought, for we marched a 
 thousand miles and never v see a enemy. Now, I don't know 
 what your politics are " 
 
 " I have none," said Mr. Twells, with dignity. " I'm 
 what I call independent. I have never voted for either 
 side, and I never will." 
 
 " Well, I don't go so far as that," Mr. Burgess rejoined. 
 ' But, as I was saying, if this here Imperial Conference had 
 come on before the war, things would 'a been very differ- 
 ent. The Government's ignorant, that's where it is. 
 Ignorant. They don't know what they're doing, not half 
 the time. I can't say why it is, I'm sure. I only sees the 
 fact. They're paid for their job, too. I know there's
 
 IMPERIALISM. 141 
 
 some that says this country's run by the Press. But it's 
 run by the Government. When the Press pulls all one way, 
 like it did in the war-time, exceptin' one or two papers, the 
 Press shoves the Government along. But most of the time 
 the papers is pulling all ways to once. Take this here 
 Colonial Conference. What did the last Government do? 
 Come along, says Mr. Chamberlain, let's have a British 
 Empire as is a Empire. Right you are, says the Premiers, 
 you're a sportsman. And they come. They passed a lot 
 of resolutions as would 'a made a Empire out of a ash- 
 heap, by what I can see of it. And what did the 
 Government do ? Pleased to see you, Mr. Premiers, says 
 Mr. Balfour. D'you play golf? No? W T hat a pity ! You 
 should 'a begun young, like me. Well, so-long, he says, 
 I've got to play a foursome, and my motor-car's blockin' 
 the way. Sorry you can't stop, he says. 
 
 " As for the Radicals, of course they didn't raise no 
 objections. No place like home, they says. Now we'll 
 take everything from everybody that's worth robbin', divide 
 it among ourselves, and start fresh. As for the Empire, 
 that's off, they says. That's me, every time, says C.-B., 
 and in he comes, a pick-a-back on a pore slave of a China- 
 man. Now we'll have another Conference, he says, just 
 to show there's no ill-feeling. Of course we ain't a-going 
 to give you anything you want, he says. You can't surely 
 expect it. But charmed to see you, any time. Telephone 
 the Hotel Cecil, he says, and the car'll meet you at 
 Waterloo." 
 
 " Ah," said Mr. Twells, " you're quite right, Mr. 
 Burgess. A customer came into my shop only the other 
 day, and he said, ' What we want is the Kaiser over bere 
 —just like that." 
 
 " The Emperor William, he's a gentleman, he is," said 
 Mr. Burgess. " He'd be gratified to meet your friend, DO 
 doubt, but I expect he'd say his own job took all his span- 
 as it i->. No, I doubt we'll have to mm: ;■!<■ aloi we 
 are, Mr. Twells, a-tryingto make a silk purse out of a sow's 
 ear, as the saying is. That's what the newspapi (s at— ■
 
 142 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 day and night they're at it, twenty different ways, too. 
 I'm a great reader of newspapers, myself — that's partly why 
 I come home. I'm interested in politics, and there's no 
 politics on the prairie — nothing but a gashly emptiness, 
 like wanting your dinner. But bless my soul alive I when 
 it comes to the Colonial Conference, they're all abroad, 
 the papers is. There's two or three, I don't deny, what's 
 got the hang of the thing, and that'll do good. I dessay 
 you know the ones I mean. But as for the rest, they're all 
 afraid. Goodness knows what they're afraid of 1 I only 
 know they're trem'lous. The editor's lived in a office all 
 his life, I suppose, and so he don't know what his sub- 
 scribers are like. He thinks they're all like editors, with 
 one eye on a gilt-edged invitation-card a-stuck in the look- 
 ing-glass, and the other on the proprietor. But the public's 
 like you and me, Mr. Twells. We got our living to earn, 
 and we sees that what's called the British Empire is a big 
 bit of unrealised estate, a-crying out for development, and 
 a-running to waste all the time. 
 
 " Now, what does the papers say ? Two or three, as I've 
 always said, tells us to go and take hold right along — and 
 I'll lay a dollar the men that runs them papers has been and 
 seen. But the rest — be careful, they says. Don't hurry — 
 don't do nothing rash. It'll take years and years, they 
 says, before we can think of making arrangements . Years 
 of '■ spade-work,' one of them says, as solemn as you please, 
 and I suppose the man what wrote them words knew what 
 he meant when he did it — I don't. And some of 'em is so 
 busy a-stickin' stamp-paper over the cracks in the tumble- 
 down, rat - rid, insanitary old warehouse they call Free 
 Trade, they can't spare a thought. Free Trade I I took 
 blessed good care, when I went into business, to take up a 
 trade which was protected, I can assure you.' 1 
 
 '- 1 don't blame you," said Mr. Twells, getting off his 
 barrel. "And talking of business, I must get back to 
 mine." 
 
 " That's what it comes to, don't it? " said Mr. Burgess, 
 cheerfully. "That's what it comes to, all the time."
 
 MR. BETTERMAN. 143 
 
 XXVI.— MR. BETTERMAN. 
 
 "'Tis not in folly not to scorn a fool, 
 And scarce in human wisdom to do more." 
 
 WE will call him Mr. Betterman, after the example of 
 the late John Bunyan, who labelled his characters accord- 
 ing to the particular kind of temperament they were 
 designed to represent. The author of " The Pilgrim's 
 Progress " had no single personage in his eye ; it was the 
 type that — after the fashion of the Old Morality plays with 
 which he was familiar — he aimed to portray. We also, 
 in our humble way, have it in mind to depict a type, in 
 the hope of arriving at a better understanding of the indi- 
 viduals of which it is composed. 
 
 The type, then, we have christened Betterman, because 
 the principle upon which he seems to order his life is that 
 of being better than other people. I say seems — who am 
 I, to judge another? It will be seen presently that the 
 theory is formed by process of induction. The desire 
 not only to seem better, but to be better than other men 
 is the only hypothesis which appears to explain the phe- 
 nomena. There may, of course, be another hypothesis 
 which has not yet been discovered. 
 
 But here, we must distinguish. The desire to be better 
 
 than other people must not be confused with the desire to 
 
 be good. Goodness — what the philosopher calls *' good in 
 
 if " — is a positive thing ; we arc most of us in agreement 
 
 .1 to its nature ; and we most of us desire it. But Mr. 
 
 Betterman'fl object is relative. He merely wants to be 
 better than his fellow . He is not greatly concerned to 
 
 >W if they are right Of wrong in any given CS < . With
 
 144 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 him, it is not a question of a common allegiance to virtue, 
 but of his own individual superiority. At this point, it is 
 fair to say that Mr. Betterman is probably unconscious of 
 the quality of his master motive. He very likely believes 
 that he is humbly striving to be merely good, like the rest 
 of us. 
 
 Now, how did Mr. Betterman come to be what he is? 
 Did he, in his very cradle, roll an anxious eye upon his 
 little brothers and sisters, and calculate in his infant mind 
 how a baby might point a moral to their noisy behaviour ? 
 We shall never know. It is probable, however, that a solid 
 comfort was his portion from his earliest years. 
 
 His father, Shut -Eye Betterman, was a man of consider- 
 able possessions, employing large numbers of men, women, 
 and children. Shut -Eye Betterman remembered the good 
 old days when the mill -owners used to import children of 
 six years old from the workhouses, and force them to toil 
 for thirteen hours daily, by the use of the lash and other 
 forms of torture ; and when the dead used to be buried at 
 night, to avoid unnecessary remark. But the worthy old 
 gentleman never recounted these circumstances to 
 Betterman junior ; who, perhaps, remains in ignorance of 
 them to this day. 
 
 Shut -Eye married Gentility Toogood. Ller father was 
 a preacher of some local renown. It could never be said 
 that Betterman senior married for money. Nor could it 
 be contended by the envious that the well-to-do mill -owner 
 gained any social advantage by his marriage. We are here 
 bordering on dangerous ground. We know it. But truth 
 is truth ; and the plain fact is that painful distinctions are 
 drawn in society. There are, as Mr. Weller observed to 
 Mr. Pickwick, wheels within wheels, even in a prison. 
 
 Miss Toogood's papa, that eminent divine, had never 
 been able to reconcile his conscience with the tenets of the 
 Establishment. I make no comment. I record the fact. 
 Shut-Eye Betterman was a pillar of the society of which 
 Mr. Toogood was the admired pundit. It had, as I have 
 said, tq endure a certain ostracism on the part of another
 
 MR. BETTERMAN. 145 
 
 section of the community. I do not think the Toogoods 
 and the Bettermans liked this exclusion — unavowed, but 
 real . Who would ? More ; I doubt if it was good for 
 them . 
 
 " Are not Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, better 
 than all the waters of Israel? " An implied contempt, you 
 see, drives the victim to obstinate self -justification. Young 
 Betterman grew up in that atmosphere. It was not his 
 fault. Nay, whose fault was it? Who shall award the 
 blame, in our ancient, complex, and obsolete social system ? 
 
 Master Betterman was subjected to rigid discipline in 
 his early youth. Other people might ruin their children 
 by indulgence — not so the Bettermans. Prayers before 
 breakfast, school after breakfast, school after dinner, pre- 
 paration after tea, prayers, bed. No variation, no relaxa- 
 tion. On Sunday, three long services and two Bible read- 
 ings. A weaker boy might have rebelled, or eluded the 
 iron rules of that household. But young Betterman was of 
 a dogged constitution. He shut his mouth, and set himself 
 to fulfil his destiny. He had money, he had excellent food, 
 and good clothes. He was taught to perceive the value 
 of these things, and how their possession depended upon 
 industry, and that the object of industry was to get money. 
 He never for a moment questioned these maxims. 
 
 He was never taught to try to be better than other people 
 — he learned that lesson unconsciously. It was in the very 
 air he breathed. He never, perhaps, consciously perceived 
 that, when two persons, or two sets of persons, are at feud 
 in civilised society there are only two courses of action : 
 the one, to attempt conciliation by mutual concession ; the 
 other, to manifest superiority. Pride forbade the first 
 course — pride, and honest conviction, very likely. The 
 second remained. The obvious method of manifesting 
 superiority over another i^ to prove him to be in the wrong 
 r\ possible occa ion. It A says black is black, 
 1; asserts that black is white. It A advances cogent argu- 
 ment^. B becomes a martyr to his convictions— and what 
 
 L.P.L.S. L
 
 146 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 attitude can be more convincingly superior ? After a 
 while, the thing becomes a habit. 
 
 Young Betterman, I say, never, perhaps, consciously 
 analysed the position. He simply acquired the habit. It 
 might have been knocked out of him at school ; but then, 
 neither the Toogoods nor the Bettermans approved of 
 public schools. Betterman junior attended a grammar 
 school, and lived at home. 
 
 In due time he entered his father's counting-house. Mr. 
 Betterman intended his son for public life ; and he con- 
 sidered that a sound business training was the best possible 
 preparation for statesmanship. 
 
 Young Betterman, then, learned by actual practice the 
 application of the golden rule, Buy in the cheapest market 
 and sell in the dearest. He remarked that the free import 
 of raw material, together with fine machinery and a low 
 rate of wages, enabled the manufacturer to make consider- 
 able profits. He also perceived that a large number of 
 persons, whose opinions and methods of life generally were 
 alien to his own, believed that other things might con- 
 ceivably be of more importance than a handsome dividend. 
 The result was inevitable. Young Betterman became a 
 " convinced Free Trader." 
 
 When the times were ripe, he entered Parliament. This 
 was a most dizzying experience for the provincial ; but he 
 kept his head, though swimming in deep waters. Mr. 
 Betterman, M.P., was suddenly confronted with all sorts 
 of problems of which he had scarce heard, but in whose 
 solution he was bound to take a hand. He steered man- 
 fully by what lights he had. But his little beacons had been 
 designed to illuminate a suburban street ; their dim rays 
 could not beam across great spaces of sea, or lighten the 
 darkness of a strange continent. 
 
 Mr. Betterman might, indeed, have modified his views 
 by the light of the opinions of others more instructed and 
 of wider vision than himself. But that would have been a 
 virtual confession of inferiority. He could not stomach 
 the humiliation, though none but himself would have re-
 
 MR. BETTERMAN. 147 
 
 garded him as swallowing an affront. The old habit was 
 formed, wrought into metal no more ductile than cast-iron, 
 by the long forging of circumstance and training. More- 
 over, he had what may be called the fixed intellect. He 
 was constitutionally unable to assimilate more than a 
 limited quantity of ideas. 
 
 Consider now Mr. Betterman, with his inexpugnable, 
 irritable craving for the assertion of superiority, his fixed 
 intellect, with its cast iron convictions, its resultant stub- 
 bornness. Consider also that he found himself among men 
 who held the most various opinions, and yet who were 
 accustomed to subordinate them to purely party interests. 
 Their unspoken influence was, therefore, necessarily more 
 potent in confirming Mr. Bettcrman's tendency to cling 
 to his little sect, than any open persuasion exerted with the 
 purpose of enlightening him, could be. Persuasion 
 hardened his heart. He was unconscious of the prevalent 
 influence of the spirit of party, and was infected by it 
 unawares. 
 
 If our tentative analysis of the Betterman personality 
 be approximately accurate — and all analyses of human 
 character must be approximate — we may now, perhaps, be 
 able to understand the true signification of those extra- 
 ordinary actions which have hitherto confounded us. 
 
 We all remember how, when Mr. Bettcrman's native 
 country was at war with another nation, Mr. Betterman went 
 over to the other side, body and bones ; how he bitterly 
 reproached his fellow - countryman with gratifying a 
 selfish ambition and an unprincipled greed ; and how he 
 praised the virtues of the enemy — his probity, humility, and 
 noble patriotism. But surely it was clearly impossible for 
 Mr. Betterman to side with a majority, and equally im- 
 possible for him to judge of a national issue save by the 
 fixed standards of his teaching. Mr. Betterman had, in 
 first place, to justify his position Ins, Bctterman's posi- 
 tion, which, he had learned to believe, was of some im- 
 portance. Again, he had I" en taught that fighting is 
 wrong. In lm boyhood he never fought. He did not 
 
 L 2
 
 148 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 run away either. If any one hit him — as sometimes oc- 
 curred — he remained doggedly passive. Thus, the moral 
 victory was his. 
 
 We remember, too, how, when the settlers of his own 
 blood were striving to maintain order in a savage country — 
 of whose existence and situation Betterman's schoolmaster 
 had neglected to inform him — Mr. Betterman denounced 
 the proceedings as murderous, and called upon a tribe of 
 black and bloodthirsty barbarians, of whose nature he had 
 no knowledge whatever, to arise against the white 
 oppressor. 
 
 But again, how could Mr. Betterman act otherwise? The 
 institutions of his native town, with which alone he had any 
 acquaintance, are the result of the evolution of centuries. 
 Mr. Betterman was quite honestly unable to perceive that 
 the same conditions did not apply to a savage land, whose 
 inhabitants were less civilised than were the Britons when 
 the Romans came. The image in his mind was the picture 
 of troops firing ball cartridge into a mob of poor factory 
 hands, in the streets at home. His intellect, as I have said, 
 was a fixed quantity, incapable of the least expansion. 
 Many are in like case. 
 
 And then, again, we recall the apparent inconsistency 
 of Mr. Betterman, the ( champion of freedom, when a 
 measure of factory reform was brought forward. We 
 remember his bitter opposition and his impassioned de- 
 claration that the whole moral and material welfare of the 
 nation depended absolutely upon leaving the employers of 
 labour perfectly unshackled. Well, he honestly believed 
 what he said. He had been taught to believe that trade 
 was the one object of existence, and that its success 
 depended upon paying as little as possible for labour, and 
 getting as much as possible for that little. I admit that the 
 love of money may have influenced Mr. Betterman here. 
 I don't say it did — but it may have . 
 
 To understand all, says the wise French proverb, is to 
 forgive all . Well, I own it is hard to forgive Mr. Betterman 
 at times. His violence inflicts a deal of unnecessary suffer-
 
 MR. BETTERMAN. 149 
 
 ing, you see. But there he is : a fact to be faced. He is 
 impervious to argument, deaf to persuasion. Opposition 
 hardens his heart. And yet I see nothing for it but to 
 withstand him ; without malice, if you will, but with a 
 quite uncompromising determination.
 
 150 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 XXVII.— THE WRECKERS. 
 
 " A wrecker's handful of coin gleaned from the beach to which 
 he has beguiled an argosy; a camp-follower's bundle of rags 
 unwrapped from the hearts of goodly soldiers. 
 
 THE throng of vehicles checked suddenly. In front, 
 scarlet glowed in the strong sun ; and from further yet 
 rose the wail of the pipers piping. Scarlet, and black, 
 and that wild music throbbing through the sunlight, chimed 
 together, plucking at the heart. " The Guards 1 Marching 
 to the Palace before disbanding. The Guards 1 " The 
 words ran from lip to lip, with that extraordinary instan- 
 taneous communication of a crowd. People jumped from 
 cabs, climbed down from omnibuses, ran from side streets, 
 to march beside the soldiers : men, women and children 
 marching beside the stern ranks of set faces, gazing steadily 
 in front beneath the bearskins. 
 
 The pipers ceased, and the drums rolled, and the brass 
 crashed, and the maddening music rose like a tide and beat 
 from wall to wall of the shining, steaming street, and 
 drowned the tramp of many footsteps beating in time. 
 
 In the midst were borne the colours, wreathed with a 
 crown of green leaves — colours scarce faded since the King 
 gave them to the battalion. 
 
 The strong river of scarlet and black rolled forward, 
 and the crowd thickened at its side, moving with it. 
 Beneath the swing of the music, you could hear the words 
 passing here and there from one to another. ' To be dis- 
 banded — a dirty shame — O, it's a shame — marching to 
 parade before the King — the last time — a shame — a 
 shame I " There was no shouting or gesticulation. The 
 crowd was very quiet, as English crowds are . Their faces
 
 THE WRECKERS. 151 
 
 were gravely tense. They wire not indifferent. The most 
 of them were sullenly, bitterly, silently angry. 
 
 Fainter and fainter rang the music ; the medley of 
 traffic closed up behind the flash of scarlet, the shine of 
 sunlight on bearskin and glitter of accoutrements ; and 
 presently the streets that converge upon Victoria had fallen 
 again into their dull, unceasing clatter and tumult. The 
 Guards were gone by. 
 
 There is a little green enclosure in that place, shaded 
 by trees. As I passed up the quieter side, I beheld a man, 
 leaning his back against the railings, and crying. He was 
 not attempting to conceal his emotion, nor did any one 
 heed him. You can do almost anything in London, and 
 no one will notice you, if you do it quietly. It is part of 
 the horror of the place. The man was Stringer Mathieson, 
 of Australia— lean, long, sun-dried, with a puckered, lizard- 
 eye. I knew him, because it had fallen to my lot to accom- 
 pany him on a wild motor tour during his first visit to 
 England, years ago. He conceived a fine contempt for 
 me because I couldn't tell him how many sheep went to an 
 acre on the South Downs. We escaped a violent and pain- 
 ful death about once an hour during that voyage, and 
 Stringer remained totally unmoved. Yet here he was, 
 savagely blinking through unmistakable tears. 
 
 When he saw me, he called upon the name of his Maker, 
 and uttered a single sentence of a quite indescribable pro- 
 fanity of invective. " Easy, Stringer," I said. " You're 
 not in the Domain of Sydney. You'll have a policeman 
 here, if you don't shut up." 
 
 " Policeman ! " said Stringer, passionately ; " I'd shake 
 his hand. He's an honest man. I le docs the job for which 
 he gets his wages. Don't talk to me 1 Did you see that, 
 just now? " He jerked a sharp thumb in the direction of 
 Buckingham Palace. 
 
 " Of course," I said. " What's the matter? Taken ill 
 with a poem? " Mathieson was a bard in his own land. 
 Hence was he called Stringer, because he would String 
 rhymes.
 
 152 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 l( You saw those chaps going to be disbanded — one pi 
 the finest battalions on God's earth going to be chucked 
 away — you saw that, I say, and you tell me to be quiet? " 
 
 '■' Of course," I said. " We're only thankful that we've 
 got one or two soldiers left and a ship or so still in com- 
 mission. You seem surprised. Didn't you know there had 
 been a general election? " 
 
 "Election 1 " shouted Stringer. "What's that got to 
 do with it ? What do we care about your lying, dirty 
 election ? We've elections of our own — and if ours are 
 low, yours are a national degradation. Just tell me this : 
 How long are you English going to stand being bought and 
 sold for the price of a Minister's salary? " 
 
 " My dear Mathieson," I said, " I do beg of you to re- 
 member that — to be plain — it's not considered good form to 
 talk in that way. Of course I know what you mean, 
 but " 
 
 " : Yes," retorted Stringer, " I know. That's all England 
 in a sentence. You know it, but you mustn't say it ! That's 
 why we respect you so — in Australia, for instance. I'm not 
 an Englishman, thank God, and I choose to say what I 
 dash blank choose to say. You English, you've put a gang 
 of wreckers into power, and you yourselves can't say why 
 you did it. You know perfectly well that, because they're 
 wreckers, they'll wreck. And you see them at it, and you 
 stand by, and tell each other it's bad form to mention it. 
 My heart alive'! Give me a hundred Australians and I'll 
 engage to clean out the House of Commons inside half 
 an hour, and stand the racket afterwards . Only it wouldn't 
 be worth while. You'd only put 'em all back again. Now, 
 what have you got to say? " 
 
 " ■' Populus vult decipi, decipiatur ! ' " I said. 
 
 " : I don't understand French, as you know," said Stringer 
 Mathieson. " But I'll tell you what we think, t'other side 
 of the world. We think this country's gone rotten. It's 
 too blamed old. You can't alter it. Shut it up as a show- 
 place for American millionaires, and charge a shilling at 
 the gate. That's all you can do. But for God's sake don't
 
 THE WRECKERS. 153 
 
 go on blethering about Empire, and the Mother-country, 
 and that. We're simply fed up with it." 
 
 " Judge, then," I said, " what we feel — inside the gate." 
 
 Mathieson regarded me curiously. " Are there ten 
 righteous left, then? " he said. " Why, I suppose there 
 are. Well, well — the best I can tell you is to get away out 
 of it while time is yet given you. But you won't — of 
 course you won't. You can't see, somehow — and I know 
 I shan't be able to convince you — that the old country has 
 several generations of accumulated sin to pay for, and that 
 the bill is being presented." 
 
 " Explain," I said. 
 
 " You're too rich, because of the way you got your 
 riches. You know very well how you got 'em. You 
 ground and starved men and women to the bone. You 
 called yourself the workshop of the world — isn't that the 
 sacred phrase ? — and then you proclaimed Free Trade, and 
 universal peace, and all the rest of it. Did you believe 
 it? Not you. Nor did the rest of the world. They were 
 nearly deceived, but not quite. Not quite, sir. You had 
 prophets in the land, I grant you — Carlyle and parties. 
 Nobody heeded 'em. You called 'em dreamers. I tell 
 you, their dreams are coming true. You're rotten at the 
 heart's core. . . . But I don't want to hurt your feelings." 
 
 " Continue," I said. 
 
 " Well, you are, you know. You can't suck up all the 
 good stuff from the land — churn up good yeoman flesh in 
 factories, and work the women out, without paying the 
 price. What do they know or care of country or Empire? 
 Gaol and workhouse crammed to the doors — miles of slums 
 — millions of acres of good land desert— there's the heart 
 of Empire. And never a man among your politicians will 
 face the facts. They stick to the old cry — Peace, peace 
 — when there is no peace." 
 
 A strain of martial music floated over the trees of the 
 park, across the tumult of traffic. Mathieson pricked up 
 his eara like a pointing dog. I hen In- shook his head, 
 screwing up his eyes, as though in pain.
 
 154 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 " It ought to be the Last Post/' he said. " O, the pity 
 of it. . . . Come and have a drink, any way. ' Let us 
 eat and drink, for to-morrow ' — eh? " 
 
 "Don't be oratorical," I said. " Be English." 
 
 Stringer Mathieson eyed me grimly, his leathern, cada- 
 verous countenance once more impenetrably composed. 
 " It's all right," he said. " I've done. I won't give you 
 away. I'll be real English. . . . But let's get out of 
 this before the men come back, or I won't say. Heh, 
 carrozzi ! Cab ! Drive as if the devil kicked you ! " 
 
 We drove, and the music died away behind us. A 
 phrase of Ruskin's set itself to the roll of the wheels : " A 
 wrecker's handful of coin gleaned from the beach to which 
 he has beguiled an argosy ; a camp follower's bundle of 
 rags unwrapped from the hearts of goodly soldiers. . . ."
 
 PICTURES. 155 
 
 XXVIII.— PICTURES. 
 
 " A spiritual woven signal for .ill nations, emblem of man elate- 
 above death." 
 
 " This," said the lady in the flowered dress, " is so 
 pretty it's quite worth sitting opposite to for a minute." 
 She seated herself accordingly upon a green iron chair, and 
 gazed at the full -sized stage representation of the late Lord 
 Nelson's birthplace which adorned the Naval Exhibition 
 at Earl's Court. It is so like Nature that Nature herself 
 must marvel at it. But it has the stillness and rigidity of 
 death. The lady's gaze 'wandered. The jangle of 
 mechanical music filled the sultry air ; that kind of music 
 which is supposed to be popular because it has parted with 
 the essential attributes of melody. 
 
 The best exhibition we've ever had, I'm sure," said 
 the lady, as she moved away from before the death-mask 
 of Burnham Thorpe. 
 
 Is it? Well, that depends. (Not that it matters.) in 
 the dusky red picture galleries hung the portraits of old 
 seamen and great captains and the presentments of ancient 
 sea fights. And one chamber is consecrate to Nelson, the 
 deathless star of England's prowess. But outside, mingled 
 with the pasteboard reminders of one of the real things 
 that remain in England, the Navy, are a gimcrack bazaar 
 and a cheap-jack fair. These are will enough in their 
 place— but why the juxtaposition? It is to be suppo ed 
 that the people prefer the arrangement. And at this point 
 in our tram of relief tions we leave externals and (Mine to 
 
 the essential. Here are the pictured dad heroes in the 
 
 quiet galleries), and there is tie' ( rowd without. It may he
 
 156 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 merely fancy — but there seems to be some sort of inde- 
 scribable discrepancy or want of harmony between the two. 
 It may be merely superficial . If it be worth while to examine 
 whether there be any reason for so vaguely disquieting an 
 impression, one must needs observe more narrowly. Let 
 us begin with the seamen. What manner of men were 
 these fighting sailors, whose deeds we know? What can 
 we discern of their characters from their faces as the 
 artist drew them ? In such an attempt, we are to remember 
 that we are looking, not upon the man but, upon the man 
 as the artist conceived him. If the artist were greatly 
 gifted we shall see perhaps what we could not otherwise 
 have discerned. And if the painter had but a mechanical 
 mind, his art would partly obscure instead of reveal the 
 nature of his subject. In either case we behold the subject 
 inextricably intermixed with the temperament of the 
 painter ; and in addition we must needs take into account 
 the refractive medium of the spectator's own individual 
 temperament. Hence it is that in such a business we must 
 always work with defective instruments, so that no two 
 persons will arrive at precisely the same result. But never- 
 theless, a general agreement is attainable. Indeed, it is 
 upon this rough working basis that the affairs of the world 
 are conducted. It is an old and a true saying that we see 
 only that which we bring the capacity to see. 
 
 We are to proceed by the comparative method, so that 
 it will be convenient to take some one portrait to start 
 from. Here, facing down the gallery, is the big full-length 
 portrait of John Jervis, Earl of St .Vincent, G .C .B ., Admiral 
 of the Fleet. It is common knowledge that he won a great 
 victory over the Spanish Fleet off Cape St. Vincent ; it 
 is not so well known that Lord St. Vincent restored and 
 perfected the discipline of the British Navy at an exceed- 
 ingly critical time. An indomitable, wise, and crafty old 
 man, he looks out from Beechey's picture, gazing a little 
 sideways and down. He has the eyes of a commander, 
 alert, penetrating, and imperturbable, latently menacing. 
 The nose, long, boldly salient and broad at the nostrils,
 
 PICTURES. 157 
 
 curves over the firm lips. The head domes finely above 
 the ears. The figure is deep-chested and sturdy. Here 
 is one (you would say) who would be very ill to cross ; 
 one who would cunningly shape a course, and who would 
 implacably hold to it ; who had faced the best and the 
 worst in life, and serenely defied either to turn him a hair's 
 breadth from his way. There are strength and cunning 
 and determination in the old man's face, but there are also 
 refinement and an extraordinary dignity. 
 
 One knows the qualities he displayed in life, and his 
 great achievement ; and it may be objected that one reads 
 them into the man's aspect. But, even so, try to find a 
 contradictory feature, and the result is the same. The 
 great admiral is all of a piece, his strenuous spirit moulded 
 his outward semblance to its own likeness in the end. So 
 it is always, had we but eyes to read that writing. 
 
 Turn now to the portrait of Admiral Hood, Viscount 
 Bridport. He was a few years senior to St. Vincent. He 
 fought under Hawke in the action which defeated Confians, 
 and he was second in command upon the Glorious First 
 of June under Lord Howe. His portrait shows a singu- 
 larly beautiful old man, his white hair falling about a face 
 shrewd, noble, and kindly. And in him again we mark 
 the keen, implacable eye, the big nose, the resolute mouth, 
 and the suggestion of wisdom not unmingled with the craft 
 of the fighting man. 
 
 So, too, with Vice - Admiral Sir Thomas Francis 
 Fremantle, with Vice - Admiral Lord Collingwood, with 
 Admiral of the Fleet Earl Howe, with Captain Basil Hall, 
 with Vice-Admiral William Young — to choose at random. 
 All these were of Nelson's time ; and all, it seems, were 
 stamped with the same seal. It may be an obsession on the 
 part of the spectator, but one cannot but believe that there 
 is a strong family likeness among this " band of brothers." 
 Each differs from the other ; yet there is not one who could 
 by any possibility be anything but a naval officer. Set 
 them, dressed in plain clothes, in any crowd of whatever 
 degree, and they would still stand forth conspicuous and
 
 158 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 unmistakable. Not only so, but the likeness persists to 
 the present day. Glance through a collection of naval 
 portraits, and now and again — if you have friends in the 
 Navy — a face will look out upon you with the lineaments 
 of a familiar acquaintance. 
 
 The gallery is very quiet and near deserted. From 
 without comes a confused noise of music and cries. The 
 spectator is almost alone among these silent figures of the 
 valiant dead. There is a kinship among them extending 
 unaltered through the centuries of battle and storm and 
 broil. And here, among the relics of his life, is the 
 captain of them all. Upon Nelson's countenance, noble 
 and melancholy and ardent, is set the same seal. /What 
 is it ? What is this intangible thing that sets these men 
 apart? Is there no trace of it in the crowd that loiters 
 and frolics in the garden outside and fills the streets 
 beyond ? Here and there, but not often, one may see it . 
 Faces, said Bacon, are but a gallery of pictures — pass them 
 in review. Clever and ugly, vacuous and pretty, handsome 
 or shrewd, brutal or plaintive — they press and throng. And 
 when we catch a hint, a glimpse, of the thing we seek, 
 upon whom is it impressed ? Always, surely, upon one 
 who has lived a hard life in unfaltering pursuit of one 
 thing. It is really a simple thing when you reflect upon it, 
 and its simple name is duty. There is no impress more 
 beautiful, and none, perhaps, more rare. And here we 
 arrive at the reason for that indefinable discordance 
 between the only valuable part of the exhibition and the 
 rest — between the people who have made it so, and the 
 silent faces on the wall. 
 
 Here is, perhaps, but a fancy, or at best a broken side- 
 light upon the bewildering confusion of a time of transi- 
 tion. It would have no importance were it not that the 
 quality we decipher so unmistakably upon the faces of the 
 men who learned and practised their duty under duty's 
 sternest teacher, the sea, was the quality that saved and 
 upheld the country in time of need, and that its lack must 
 inevitably lose what they won. If the old fibre be not weak-
 
 PICTURES. 159 
 
 ening, why is it that we are shown the menace of the future 
 and never lift a hand? Why is it that we are content to 
 leave all duty of defence to the men of the sea, where the 
 old tradition still holds? We may be assured of this — 
 the Navy cannot do all for all time. If the land that breeds 
 the men of the Navy trifles with its duty, they, too, will 
 presently begin to fail. . . . 
 
 Our stout lady was right. The exhibition is the best 
 we have had— if we did but know it. And so out into the 
 streets again, the flaring streets where the people are buying 
 and selling and taking their ease, as though Nineveh had 
 not fallen nor Rome crumbled in ruins. A gloomy view, 
 no doubt. But it is only a fancy, a broken side-light on 
 the confusion of a time of transition. The sun will rise 
 to-morrow, and many to-morrows, and with it comes the 
 sound of many footsteps, the footsteps of a new generation.
 
 160 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 XXIX.— THE PAGEANT. 
 
 " There is no putting by that Crown . . ." 
 
 The night before the Pageant, the Cup -Bearer to King 
 Henry VIII. dreamed of Queens. They were very unlike 
 the young ladies in the shop ; even when these were 
 attired in Royal costumes, ordered of Jimmy Morland's 
 master by the ladies of the Pageant. They were also un- 
 like the ladies themselves, even when these assumed the 
 dress of their rank, after viewing their effect upon the living 
 models in the high-class millinery establishment of the 
 King's Road. 
 
 What were they like ? When he awoke, Jimmy Morland 
 could not remember. His eyes lighted on the green and 
 gold costume disposed upon a chair, and the great gilt 
 cup standing beside it. These trappings appeared to him 
 extraordinarily symbolical. Such things as these had 
 aforetime dwelt in the presence of Queens ; the page, 
 kneeling in that silken hose, had lifted the massive cup 
 towards her Majesty, and his eyes, perhaps, had looked 
 into hers. . . . 
 
 Jimmy Morland went down to breakfast in the gas -lit 
 basement, with the other shop assistants. For the first 
 time in some dreary years, that leaden meal did not affect 
 him ; he heard, without heeding, the talk of his com- 
 panions rise about him like an inarticulate gabble ; and 
 their familiar faces appeared insignificant like masks . The 
 sting of these things was drawn ; their dull, implacable 
 reminder that so, and just so, should all the days of his 
 life be, without hope of escape, till the end, was remitted. 
 Morland did not reason upon this remarkable circum-
 
 THE PAGEANT. 161 
 
 stance ; he was merely conscious of a hope, of an im- 
 pending knowledge of some great and shining idea, in 
 whose veiled presence he was content to stand. That it 
 might be, as he said to himself, " all a bit of fancy," which 
 might leave him suddenly, leave him grounded again upon 
 dusty, garish trivialities and grinding tedium, he was also 
 aware ; but he did not think about that. 
 
 Morland was to be released from the shop at noon, for 
 the Pageant was to open at three o'clock. 
 
 " Now my boy," said his employer, " get about your 
 work smart. You must get done somehow — can't afford 
 to let you off, else, y'know." 
 
 The burly milliner spoke not unkindly, but according 
 to his habit. In common with most shop-keepers of a 
 certain class, he held it his duty to drive his assistants 
 like slaves ; that was "business," and business was his 
 god ; but his driving principles were mitigated by a pro- 
 pensity towards good-nature. Business and good-nature 
 had combined to induce him to let young Morland enlist 
 in the Pageant. Business told him that, as he supplied 
 dresses for the actors, it was well to keep in with the Com- 
 mittee, who had picked out young Morland as a likely page. 
 Good -nature said, let the boy have a bit of an outing. 
 And when the Committee asked Mr. Brophy to take the 
 part of a Royal Duke accused of high treason, tried before 
 his peers, and led to execution in jingling chains, there 
 was hardly anything (had they but known it) which he 
 would not have given them. 
 
 " A good part, though I say it," Mr. Brophy would con- 
 fide to a friendly customer. " In fact, between you and 
 me, it's the only part in the 'ole performance— what I call 
 a Part! " 
 
 Mr. Brophy had Jimmy to a cold lunch in his own sacred 
 dining-room—" slice of beef and a glass of sherry, my boy. 
 Help yourself." It was a small room, floridly papered, 
 vividly carpeted, a gilt clock preserved under a glass shade 
 on the black marble mantelpiece, and flanked by mottled 
 vases containing spills. The apartment smelt of varnish, 
 
 L.P.L.S. M
 
 1 62 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 an odour associated in Jimmy's mind with the signing of 
 his indentures, eight years before, when he was a small 
 pale depressed boy of fourteen. He had often thought 
 since, that if he had known to what that " act and deed " 
 committed him, he would have run out of the room, and 
 into the street, and away — away to anywhere, before sign- 
 ing his name beside the red wafer. The same thought 
 came to him again, as he modestly sipped at Mr. Brophy's 
 Old East India Brown ; and with it came an inspiration. 
 "Why not chuck it? " His indentures had expired. He 
 was an ''improver," earning ten shillings a week and his 
 board and the privilege of " improving " himself in a busi- 
 ness whose every detail an intelligent person could master 
 in three months. " ; Why not? Why not chuck it? " The 
 idea was not new . Many a time had Morland come to the 
 edge of revolt ; and dismayed by the hopeless prospect 
 beyond, had sullenly drawn back, and relapsed into 
 resignation. 
 
 But to-day, it appeared to him that in the world which 
 the Pageant had revealed to him, a world wherein men 
 fought and lusted at their will, and hazarded all and lost 
 and won ; a world peopled by all manner of gracious 
 presences, among whom the long procession of Queens 
 moved sad and smiling and stately, Guinevere and 
 Boadicea, ^Ethelflaed and Matilda, Anne of Cleves and 
 Elizabeth ; in such a world, there must be room and place 
 for a man outside the glass -walled, stifling shop, in which 
 the assistants were imprisoned like the flies on the pane. 
 Of course there must. The thing was absurd. Besides, 
 thought Jimmy Morland, walking to the Pageant grounds, 
 all these multitudes of people in the streets were free 
 people. They were not in shops. Yet they lived, and had 
 time to come and stare at him, walking to the Pageant 
 with his cheap mackintosh cloaking his page's dress, all but 
 the white hose and buckled shoes . 
 
 He came into the littered enclosure behind the trees, 
 where painted men in scanty tunics lounged beside their 
 horses, smoking pipes, and Druids mixed with dancing
 
 THE PAGEANT. 163 
 
 girls, and brazen Roman soldiers mingled with black-robed 
 nuns, and a Saxon Archbishop, in cope and mitre, walked 
 arm - in - arm with the gigantic figure of William the 
 Norman. Pretty girls eyed the Cup-bearer with the 
 English gaze which sees without seeing ; and Jimmy 
 Morland was abashed. The sun beat strongly on the dis- 
 array, and the music of the overture sounded from beyond 
 the trees. Druids and Romans came and went ; the Early 
 British cavalry thundered out at a gallop ; the Saxon pre- 
 lates assembled to hear the king give judgment ; and the 
 Cup-bearer ran along with the crowd of May -Day revellers. 
 They danced and shouted upon the sunbright space of 
 grass, beneath the hill of spectators rising beneath the 
 wooden roofs, and then all were gone with the swiftness of 
 a dream, and the sunbright space was empty. 
 
 Jimmy Morland stood aside among the bushes, holding 
 the gold cup, until King Henry Eight should require his 
 service. He watched the red halberdiers file down the 
 winding path between the bushes, and line up in the centre 
 of the sunbright space, where grave men in black gowns 
 were holding converse ; he watched the watermen in white 
 and green, file down the winding path between the bushes, 
 and stand in a double row, making an arch of their long 
 oars ; and he saw the burly King rolling down the winding 
 path between the bushes, and pass beneath the oars, and 
 greet the grave men in black, and presently walk up and 
 down with one of them, his great arm resting on the grave 
 man's shoulder. Then the players came together in a 
 group, and the Cup-bearer stepped forward, and kneeling, 
 offered the goblet to the King. 
 
 Just behind his Majesty, stood a girl attired in a dove- 
 coloured dress, and Jimmy Morland looked up and met her 
 glance. She did not gaze through him without seeing 
 him, like the other girls. She surveyed him gravely. 
 Presently they stood aside together, and watched the end 
 of the scene. 
 
 it occurred to Jimmy, that if he were not what he was : 
 if he were a free man, like these others ; if lie had the right 
 
 If 2
 
 1 64 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 to mingle in polite society ; if he were not there on suf- 
 ferance, as an actor in the Pageant, the stain of the shop 
 ignored for the time being ; how happy he would be. He 
 would then, he was sure, be able to speak to the lady at his 
 side naturally and easily. He would then, he was sure, 
 be able to look her full in the face without embarrassment. 
 It struck him that he might achieve that position at a stride. 
 Five minutes — painful but brief — with Mr . Brophy, and the 
 thing was done. Why, then, he was practically free already 
 — free, save for a mere form . The thought filled him with 
 a sudden unreasonable exaltation. He glanced at the girl 
 beside him. She appeared to be wrapt in that icy, in- 
 tangible mantle which held real ladies aloof and apart and 
 unapproachable. If he were to speak to her, how should 
 he begin? Should he call her " Miss? "... 
 
 Out in the sunlight, Sir Thomas More, following the 
 Pursuivant, turned suddenly, to bid his wife farewell, and 
 the Dame kneeled beside the black figure. 
 
 " It's very real, isn't it? "- said the girl, pleasantly, and 
 Jimmy felt that he was facing a crisis . 
 
 " Do you know, that's just what I feel it isn't," he said ; 
 and wondered at the sound of his own voice. 
 
 " ; O, but why? I think they do it so well," returned the 
 girl, her brown eyes looking him directly in the face. 
 
 " It isn't like what things are now, I mean," said Jimmy, 
 labouring with some confusion of thought. " Seems to 
 me things have changed for the worse." 
 
 "-Sir Thomas More is going away to execution," said 
 the girl, looking after the dark -robed figure as it ascended 
 the winding path between ,the bushes. "That wouldn't 
 happen now, would it ? a 
 
 4i He had his innings, after all,"- persisted Jimmy. 
 " : There's lots of chaps like — lots of fellows I know, who 
 don't get the chance of that much, nowadays.'-' 
 
 ,fj Men can make their own chance, surely," said the girl. 
 
 <£ They could — then!" Jimmy jerked a thumb at the 
 Lord High Admiral of England, who was paying audacious 
 court to the Lady Elizabeth. "Kings and Queens, too," 
 he added, inconsequently .
 
 THE PAGEANT. ^ 165 
 
 ''There's Lady Jane Grey," said the girl. " Isn't she 
 sweet? I like her better than Elizabeth. But I shouldn't 
 like to be a Queen." 
 
 Jimmy Morland had attended a course of University 
 extension lectures on English literature. A certain passage 
 flitted through his mind. ..." You must be in many a 
 heart enthroned: there is no putting by that crown; 
 queens you must always be ." . . . 
 
 " Yes," he said. " There is no putting by that crown." 
 And then he felt that he was saying something he had said 
 before, sometime, somewhere, standing in the green shade, 
 looking upon the bright and moving spectacle of the 
 Pageant as he stood now <; and he knew what the reply 
 would be. 
 
 " Is that a quotation? " asked the girl. 
 
 " Yes," said Jimmy. " I couldn't ever have thought of 
 it myself — not to put it in those words, like," he added 
 modestly. 
 
 " Are you fond of reading ? " she asked. 
 
 " Like it better than anything,'' replied Jimmy. '* Only, 
 you see, I don't get much time. At work from eight in the 
 morning till eight or nine at night, you see. But I manage 
 to get in a bit when the — after hours, and on Sundays." 
 
 " My father writes books," said the girl. 
 
 "Does he indeed?" His tone expressed profound 
 veneration . " Do you write, too ? " he ventured. 
 
 " O, no. My spelling isn't very good. Besides, I'm not 
 original. I haven't any ideas. I should hate to have to 
 write." 
 
 " Would you really? " 
 
 " Why, do you think it such a good thing, then ? " asked 
 the girl . 
 
 "The only thing," said Jimmy, with conviction. He 
 had not thought of it before, but now he felt quite sure, 
 as if he had suddenly discovered the solution of a puzzle. 
 
 The graceful and stately figures of the Pageant came 
 and went in the sunlight ; there was a sound of music in 
 the air, mingled now and then with the monotone of a voice
 
 1 66 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 speaking, and a clapping of hands. The sunbright space 
 was cleared, and then there came a motley procession of 
 children and waving banners, vividly hued like flowers. 
 All the persons in the " Faerie Queene " passed slowly in 
 review, very plain to see, yet unearthly like a dream : the 
 Red Cross Knight, Una, Archimago, the Dwarf, a little 
 solemn Lion pacing upright, Britomart, the Seven Deadly 
 Sins, and the six ape-like Beasts, ambling in front of the 
 gilded coach. Then came Dame Celia, Pastorella, Sir 
 Calidore, the Lord of Many Isles, 'Melibasus, Corydon, shep- 
 herds and shepherdesses, and a little solemn tiger pacing 
 very upright. The little striped beast climbed to the sum- 
 mit of a knoll, and stood watching the masque go by, while 
 Edmund Spenser, the creator of that strange and beautiful 
 fantasy, stood apart, reciting his very noble and melodious 
 verse. So passed Sir Guyon, Mammon and Philotima, the 
 Palmer, and Care, Pain, Strife, Revenge, Despite, Treason, 
 Hate, Jealousy, Fear, Sorrow, Shame, Horror ; and Cam- 
 bina, Priamond, Diamond, Triamond, the Three Fates, the 
 Chariot with the Lions, the Dragon, Duessa, and the vast 
 goggling Giant Orgoglio, towering above the rest, his wide 
 raiment blown like a sail ; and then came Gloriana, be- 
 ruffed, be-diademed, guarded by her Halberdiers. And 
 the little solemn Tiger surveyed them all, and paddled down 
 to join the procession ; the while Edmund Spenser recited 
 the magic words in which the whole rout of faery lived 
 and shone and had their being. 
 
 Jimmy Morland was seized with a sudden, strange excite- 
 ment. Something rose in his throat ; his eyelids smarted. 
 "There ! " he said, thickly. " There it is. Just as I 
 was saying — the only thing. The only thing in life." 
 '-' What? " said the girl. 
 
 " That," said Jimmy, earnestly, " That there. Why it's 
 alive — as alive now as when he wrote it. That's what I call 
 worth doing. It's real, that is ! " 
 
 She regarded him curiously. " My father would like to 
 hear you say that/' she said. " You ought to be a writer 4 
 — a poet."
 
 THE PAGEANT. 167, 
 
 " What, me"! " said Jimmy, bitterly. |4 Me? I'm in a 
 shop. I sell ribbons over a counter, from eight to eight, 
 that's what I do. I'm one of the fellers what Tennyson 
 talks about — a knave what strikes with his cheating yard 
 arm home, or something. Strike? There's nothing to 
 strike, what I can see of it. Why, I've no right to be 
 talking to you like I have done. I'm a shopman, I am." 
 
 " There's no disgrace in that," said the girl. 
 
 " No, but people think as there is,"- returned Jimmy. 
 u - Not that I care. It's being it, that's the trouble." 
 
 " Why don't you give it up ? " 
 
 " Starve," said Jimmy, laconically. '-' Not but what I'd 
 chance it," he added. 
 
 '' There's my father," said the girl suddenly. 
 
 A grey-headed gentleman stood in the sunlight, his hat 
 under his arm, looking about him. The girl went towards 
 him. Jimmy watched them talking together. 
 
 Across the sunbright space, passed the funeral obsequies 
 of a Queen of England, a great train of black-robed nuns, 
 and swaying banners brightly blazoned, to the solemn 
 chant of the Dies Irce . 
 
 ,£ That's what it comes to," said Jimmy Morland to him- 
 self. ,£ Lord, what a fool I made of myself, too.' 1 
 
 The bier borne shoulder high, the scarlet banners, the 
 black monks and nuns, the mitred Abbot, the painted 
 herald, went slowly by, the strains of the dirge rising and 
 falling upon the still hot air. 
 
 " Ah, that's what it comes to, all the time," said Jimmy 
 Morland. " Queens and all." 
 
 Then he became aware of the girl returning towards him, 
 her bright figure relieved upon the sombre, receding funeral 
 train. 
 
 " My father wants to speak to you," she said. - Will 
 you come ? " 
 
 ' How do you do, Mr. Cup -bearer," said the grey- 
 headed gentleman, pleasantly. "- I see you are interested 
 in the Pageant." 
 
 " Yes, sir," said Jimmy.
 
 1 68 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 " You are kind enough to take a part in King Henry's 
 episode, which I had the pleasure of writing," continued 
 the grey-headed gentleman. ' 5 They are the small parts 
 that are often the difficulty. If you will allow me to say 
 so, I thought you performed yours admirably well." 
 
 Jimmy blushed. 
 
 "Some people say," pursued the grey-headed gentle- 
 man, " that these Pageants tend to make some of the players 
 discontented with the ordinary routine of life. What do 
 you think ? " 
 
 " Per'aps they may have been discontented before, and 
 the Pageant put an edge on it, like," said Jimmy wistfully. 
 
 " They see possibilities, you mean ? " returned the other, 
 eyeing him kindly. 
 
 "• That's it," said Jimmy, looking aside. 
 
 "■Mind," said the grey-headed gentleman, "I don't 
 think that's a bad thing. I think it's a good thing — if it 
 happens to the right man. The kind of man, I mean, who 
 is prepared to fight for what he wants, and wait, and go on 
 fighting. Then, I say, there's always a way out." 
 
 " You mean, a man can always make his own chance? " 
 Jimmy carefully avoided glancing at the girl standing 
 grave and attentive beside her father, as he echoed her 
 words. 
 
 "Quite," said the grey-headed gentleman, brightly. 
 " Well, this is a very interesting subject — we must have 
 another talk, Mr. Cup-bearer." He produced a card. "• If 
 you care to come and see me some evening, I shall be 
 delighted. Come to-night, will you? That's right." 
 
 He nodded and turned away . The girl beside him bowed 
 gravely. Jimmy Morland, standing with his page's cap in 
 his hand, beheld her departing through the sunlight.
 
 THESE SIGNS. 169 
 
 XXX.— THESE SIGNS. 
 
 "And let it be, when these signs are come unto thee, that thou do as 
 occasion serve thee.' — First Book of Samuel, x. 7. 
 
 Two little boys and a small fair-haired girl are standing 
 at a narrow deal table, set in the middle of the bare floor, 
 breakfasting. They are standing, because — for the moment 
 —there are no chairs. The chairs and other things come 
 and go, as the household budget varies. The children's 
 rations are half a loaf, a wedge of margarine, and some 
 stewed tea . The children's faces are wan, clean and shining . 
 The boys wear starched collars, the girl is clad in a clean 
 pinafore. Their mother washed them overnight, in water 
 fetched from the basement, and heated (in a bucket) on 
 the open fire. She was moved to this effort because the 
 children had told her that the morrow was a kind of festal 
 day, called — so teacher said— Empire Day ; when some 
 vague ceremonies in the morning were to be followed by a 
 half -holiday. 
 
 In the corner, under the sloping roof of the garret, two 
 stalwart youths lay sleeping on the bed, covered by a piece 
 of drugget. They were selling papers in the streets till 
 past midnight. On the wall is a framed oleograph of the 
 late Queen Victoria. The recess beside the fireplace is 
 fitted with shelves, whose edges are decorated with pink 
 tissue-paper, cut into a pattern, like ham-frills. A yellow 
 chest of drawers is tilted again, t the wall. Besides one 
 or two indistinguishable heaps of dirty household utensils, 
 there i-> nothing else in the room. 
 
 The mother, a tall, gaunt woman, stands with her arms
 
 i7.o LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON. SHAME. 
 
 folded, her back to the street window, looking down upon 
 the children. Her face is lined and set into a mask of 
 dogged endurance. Not until the ringer of death touches 
 it will the features relax. 
 
 From a steeple near by, lifted very high and far above 
 the dense-packed houses, the hour chimes, and the children 
 clatter down the dark stair (steps and wall and handrail 
 smeared with the peculiar foul dry grease of London) into 
 the arched passage leading to the street. There is a post, 
 also ingrained with the London grease, set midway in the 
 entrance. Against the post leans the father of the family, 
 himself one smear from head to foot. He is smoking the 
 black stump of a clay pipe. 
 
 ■'•' Empire Day, is it? " he says indolently, surveying the 
 children. " What's that, then? Never heard of it when 
 I was at school. Go along now." And so the children 
 melt into the throng of the great turbulent thoroughfare, 
 and join other children ; hundreds of children trotting in 
 and out the tide of foot passengers towards the cliff of 
 the brick building. Upon its summit, a brand-new Union 
 Jack is scrolled vividly upon the sullen sky. 
 
 Acres of streets, miles of streets, thousands of houses, 
 the inhabitants thick as mites in cheese : in London, in 
 Bristol, in Portsmouth ; in the north, in the midlands, the 
 black streets climbing stonily up and down the hills, the 
 same ; in Manchester, Hull, Liverpool, Birmingham, Shef- 
 field — all, in their varying degrees, the same, this Empire 
 Day. Here dwell the Imperial People ; teeming millions 
 of Imperial People, in immense beer-sodden, gin -soaked, 
 immovable, clotted masses. Examine the mass in detail, 
 and you will perceive some such matter as that which is 
 here indicated — only indicated — in a sketch from nature. 
 
 Some three hundred years ago, in the little seaport town 
 of Bristol, a parson's son said to his father, " Now Jack's 
 going to Cambridge, it's time I began to fend for myself. 
 Here's a new venture to the East Indies. Put in what 
 money you can spare, and let me hale and draw with the
 
 THESE SIGNS. 171 
 
 mariners." And the lawyer's son said the same to his 
 father, and the butcher's son to his father, and so it befell 
 in the burgesses' houses of Bristol. Of sailors there was 
 no lack ; many a stout ploughhoy who had shipped ere the 
 Spaniards came, and who had chased the Armada all up 
 Channel, was waiting for a job along the quays. After 
 two and a half centuries, the whole of India had passed 
 to the British Crown. Not all those young men of Bristol 
 came home again. But there were always more to go ; 
 and presently they, or their sons, or their son's sons, 
 returned with much riches. 
 
 Near two hundred and fifty years ago, Cromwell found 
 no lack of men to send to Jamaica, which island they took 
 at point of sword ; and somehow the English spread 
 throughout the sugar islands of the West Indies, and stayed 
 there. There was plenty of room in England, then. The 
 best land in the world bred the stoutest race in the world ; 
 and fed them well enough ; but out they must go. They 
 wanted a change ; or they wanted money ; or they loved 
 the wrong woman ; or they had killed a man ; or the priests 
 annoyed them ; and so out they went. 
 
 Some years before Cromwell took hold on the sceptre, 
 a little company of Puritans had gone to America, pro- 
 testing that they had been deprived at home of the privi- 
 leges of their birthright. A century and a half afterwards, 
 thirteen proud States declared their independence ; and 
 some fifty years after that, the Two Canadas were united 
 under the British Crown. 
 
 Meanwhile, Captain James Cook, voyaging the South 
 Seas, had lighted upon Australia ; it seemed to him likely 
 to provide a pleasant retreat for Englishmen in trouble ; so 
 he annexed the continent, in case it might prove useful. 
 1 here were hard laws in those days, made to curb a hard 
 race ; and the convict ships took the English to Australia. 
 Tin- Cape would not let their pa < ngers land. A picture 
 in the mind, of a ship, her dec les crowded, lying 
 under Table Mountain, and men with muskets lining the
 
 172 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 beach. Presently the ship goes about, heading south, and 
 diminishes, and vanishes away. And a week or so ago the 
 Premiers of Australasia were here in England., speaking to 
 the English people with the voice of two vigorous nations . 
 
 And all down the generations the men of England were 
 sailing and fighting east and west and south ; parson's 
 son, squire's son, the son of the lord, the son of the plough- 
 man, of the farmer, of the tradesman. Always they went, 
 because they would go, or because the wrong horse won — 
 a hundred various reasons. They are going still. Not 
 for them is Empire Day, save as a greeting and a memorial . 
 Not for you, ye Who did for the rade what never man did 
 before on this earth, though you knew not what you did ; 
 for now you know. 
 
 Not for these, but for the children of England, is Empire 
 Day ; and the flag that's hoisted on their schools is the 
 ensign of a forlorn hope. That is what a hundred years 
 of industrial supremacy have brought us to at last ; to the 
 flag of England flying above the immense, beer-sodden, 
 gin-soaked, immovable clotted masses, as a sign to the 
 children, ere they, too, sink into that pullulating degrada- 
 tion to bring forth. after their kind. 
 
 The flag can but point the way, which the founders of 
 Empire Day have called Duty. Duty, to the grey mass 
 from which the children spring (like flowers from the 
 slime) means nothing, has never meant anything, and will 
 never mean anything. Pray let us face the facts, if we 
 are at all in earnest in this matter. We have bred this 
 people j the people of the single room, the tenement, the 
 people of idleness and slavery and want. The gigantic 
 mortgage which the lords of industry raised upon the man- 
 hood and the womanhood of England is beginning to fall 
 due. Now are we frantically casting about in our minds 
 to find a way to escape payment . There is no way . Nature 
 does not forgive debts. 
 
 But, " under the good providence of God," England was 
 never wholly the shop. The younger son who had small
 
 THESE SIGNS. 173 
 
 taste for the counter went forth — to find his father's asses 
 very likely — and he found, like Saul, the son of Kish, a 
 kingdom. His are the magnificent possessions with which 
 we may — it is possible — pay off, or at least extend the period 
 of that fatal mortgage. In the wise old fairy stories it is 
 ever the younger son contemned of his very respectable 
 family, who seeks his fortune, and who comes home to 
 restore his family, fallen by overmuch avarice. He is a good 
 boy now ; his adventures have chastened him ; duty is his 
 watchword ; and so M he lives happy ever afterwards ." But 
 his family was not all bad ; sometimes there was a good 
 sister or so ; and she (poor soul), suffering undeserved 
 hardships, set her hopes upon a world to come. 
 
 Since this world has failed so lamentably, there must be 
 another. So runs the simple creed of many and many an 
 honest heart, whelmed and strangled amid the immense 
 beer-sodden, gin-soaked, immovable, clotted masses. The 
 world they know is sour, narrow, hungry, and hard ; closed 
 in by a monstrous labyrinth of vile houses ; without hope. 
 Well, here is another world in this life, waiting for them ; 
 or, if not for them, for their children ; not to be won 
 without courage and indomitable perseverance ; no Para- 
 dise, but common earth ; yet ample and generous, return- 
 ing good meed for honest labour, giving room and verge 
 enough under clear skies for many a thousand English 
 homes. 
 
 This is the gift of the younger son. This is what he 
 has gained for the elder branch . Therefore is Empire Day 
 both the sign and symbol of a great achievement, and the 
 call to follow a forlorn hope. Forlorn, because for the 
 immense grey mass there is no release ; and because their 
 children must break the strong thraldom, of ignorance and 
 apathy and vice, if they would be free. 
 
 So we come back to the garret, up the greasy stair, in 
 which a gaunt woman starves and slaves with shut lips ; 
 the piece of wretched bread, the margarine, the vile tea, 
 the frowsy bed ; the husband cadging hall pence tor a
 
 174 LONDON PRIDE AND LONDON SHAME. 
 
 drink, the thin, alert boys coming in dog-tired from the 
 streets ; the children coming home hungry from school, 
 to a fireless grate. 
 
 But the window looks forth upon the sky, and there is 
 the glimmer of a flag scrolled upon the lowering clouds. 
 
 Finis. 
 
 BRADBURY, AGNKW & CO., LTD., PRINTERS, LONDON AND TONBRIDGK.
 
 The Author desires to acknowledge the 
 courtesy of the Proprietors of the Morning 
 Post, Standard, Standard of Empire and 
 Evening Standard and St. James's Gazette 
 for permission to reproduce such of these 
 sketches as have already appeared in the 
 publications under their control.
 
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 12 P. S. KING & SON'S CATALOGUE 
 
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 P. S. KING & SOX'S CATALOGUE 13 
 
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 P. S. KING ft SOX'S CATALOGUE 15 
 
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 P. S. KING & SOX'S CATALOGUE 17 
 
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 18 P. S. KING & SON'S CATALOGUE 
 
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 P. S. KING & SON'S CATALOGUE 19 
 
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 20 P. S. KING & SON'S CATALOGUE 
 
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 P. S. KING & SON'S CATALOGUE 21 
 
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 22 P. S. KING & SON'S CATALOGUE 
 
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 P. S. KING & SON'S CATALOGUE 23 
 
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 24 P. S. KING & SON'S CATALOGUE 
 
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 P. S. KING & SOX'S CATALOGUE 
 
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