LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SAN DIEGO PIANOS LEAD THE WORLD! OVER 15,000 IN USE. FREEBORN C. SMITH, SUCCESSOR TO WM. B. BRADBURY. The peculiar charm of th nlment, owing to its svmpatlu VST" From personal acqua fullest confidence of the publ they give entire satisfaction. Mrs. R. B. Hayes, Wash. Mrs. U. S. Grant, Wash. Bish. M. Simpson, Phila. " E. R. Ames, Balto. " Jesse T. Peck, Syra- cuse. " Wm.L. Harris, N.Y. City. " Gilbert Haven, Atlanta " R. S. Foster, Boston. " J. W. Wiley, Cin., O. " S. M. Merrill. Chicago " E.S.Janes, N.Y. City s Piano is its adaptation to the tic, mellow, yet nth anil powe ntance with this firm, we can i c. We are using the Bradbur Rv. G. W. Whitney, TXD. Rv. J. H. Vincent, T).D. Rev. O. H. Tifiany. Wash. St. Nicholas Hotel, N. Y. Dr. James Cummins, Conn. Rv. W. M. Punshon, Lond. Rv. J. M.Waldcn, Chicago. Rv. R. M. Hatfield.Cinn.O. Ex. Gov. Wm. Claflin, Newton. Dr. J. M. Reid, N. Y. Dr. C. N. Sims, Bait.. Md. Dr. H. B. Ridgaway, N. Y. human voice as an accompa- rful singing tones, ulorse them as worthy of the y Pianos in our families, and Philip Philips, N.Y.N. Rtv. Alf. Cookman N Y. Rev. J. E. Cookman, N. Y. W G. Fischer. Phila.. Pa, Chief Justice Bradley. TJ. S. Court, Washington. Rev. A. J. Kynett, D D. Rev. Daniel Curry. D. D. Rev. Thomas Guard. Rev. L. Hitchcock. Cinn. Rev. J. S. luskip, N. Y. Chap. M'Cabe, Chicago. Dr. J. F. Hurst, President, Drew Seminary. NEW YORK, July 4, 1878. FREEBORN GARRETSOX SMITH, MANUFACTURER OP THE BRADBURY PIANO : Dear Bro.: Our South American cousins have a passion for music. The lady teachers whom I have just sent to Peru and Chili, and others who are soon to follow, are thoroughly competent teachers of music, aud they wish me to send them three of your Bradbury Pianos, as they prefer them to any other pianos made. So please select and" forward, and send bills, and they will remit you gold drafts. Please select, also, one of yonr fine new scale npriehts, and send it to my good wife in California, as Mrs. Taylor prefersthe sweet -toned Bradbury to any other piano. I will simply add. that wherever I have traversed this great coun- try of ours, and in some other lands of son?, the good old Bradbury takes the palm, and I can heartily recommend it to all who wish a splendid instrument. Sincerely yours, WM. TAYLOR. BHADBUEY PIANOS. tin- latter grateful to the performer. It preserves Us pitch ami tune in a remarkable man- ner, am! altogether is one of the best instruments that we have seen. It has more than fulfilled the promise of Mr. I Smith when he sold it to us, at his office in New York. We heartily commend his announcements to such of our readers as are proposing to purchase a piuuo. ' Dr. T. BsW FIT TALMAGE : "Friend Smith is a Methodist, but his pianos are all ortho- dox you ought to hear mine talk and sing, it is adapted to morning prayers or the gay- est parties.' 1 BISHOP AMES says: "My Bradbury Piano is found, after severe test and trial, to be equal to all you promised, and is in all respects, in richness of tone and singing qualities, everything that couid be desired. jours truly, Baltimore, ild., Jan.. 1874. E. R. AMES. ' ** J*t Barijf &&! . IL *.:. Dr. E. O. HAVEN says : " My Bradbury Piano continues to grow better every day, and my>elf and family more and more in love with it. It is the pet of our Household." BISHOP SIMPSON says: "After a trial in his family for years, for beauty of finish and, wurkmanship and for splendid quality of tone, our Bradbury Piano cannot be equaled. * The best manufactured ; warranted for six years. Pianos to let, and rent applied if purchased ; monthly installments received for the same. Old pianos taken in exchange; cash mid for the same. Second-hand pianos at great bargains, from $50 to $200. Pianos tuned and repaired Organs and Melodeons to Clergymen, Sabbath-schools and Churches, supplied at a liberal discount. Send for illustrated price list. When we will say something to please you. FREEBORN GARRETSON SMITH, ,ate Supt. for and successor to WM. B. BRADBURY, No. 14 E. 14th Street, bet. Broadway ud (>lk Avenue, JJ. Y. factory, comer Raymond and WUloughby Sts., Brooklyn. L:it OUR BY WILLIAM TAYLOR, Author of " SEVEN YEARS STREET PREACHING IN SAN FRANCISCO, "CHRISTIAN ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA," "FOUR YEARS CAMPAIGN IN INDIA," Etc., Etc. NEW YORK : NELSON AND PHILLIPS. LONDON : HODDER AND STOUGIITON. 1879. COPYRIGHT 1878 Br WILLIAM TAYLOB. New York: J. J. Little & Co., Printers, 10 to 20 Astor Place. INTRODUCTION. THE two Grand Divisions of the New World, discovered contemporaneously, their histories parallel in time, peopled by races derived from a common stock, having a family surname in common, and linked by a band of Nature's own making, may be regarded as Sister Continents. Their respective populations are kindred cousins each to the other, in the great Race Family that is spread abroad over the globe. I have just returned from a friendly visit among these South American Cousins of ours, and have recorded in the following pages what I have learned about them, and about their great country. The drapery of my illustrative facts, incidents, and pictures of real life will be purely English, and not Spanish ; so you may read audibly for the entertainment of your friends without fear of stumbling on foreign words. 3 CONTENTS. I. MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA 7 II. BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMERICA. . 38 III. OUR ANCIENT INC A COUSINS GO IV. CALLAO LIMA 89 V. MOLLENDO 106 VL ARICA AND TACNA 116 VII. IQUIQUE 138 VIII. PA BELLON DE PICA 158 IX. HUANILLOS 169 X. ANTOFAGASTA, BOLIVIA 174 XL THE LONE STAR REPUBLIC 183 XIL CALDERA 195 XIIL COPIAPO 200 XIV. COQUIMBO 204 XV. VALPARAISO 209 XVI. TALCAHUANA 226 XVII. CONCEPCION 234 5 6 CONTENTS. PAGE XVIII. MY CHILIAN RAILROAD TOUR 248 XIX. CONVERSATION WITH A ROMAN CATHO- LIC 2GS XX. POOR OLD SAN SEBASTIAN 282 XXL OUR GERMAN COUSINS 292 XXII. VALPARAISO SEAMEN'S EVANGELICAL SOCIETY 298 XXIII. GLIMPSES OF MY HOMEWARD VOYAGE. . . 309 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. i. MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA, the 16th of October, 1877, I bought for myself and for Bro. T , a fellow-minis- ter, a through ticket from New York to Callao, Peru, and embarked on the Pacific Mail Steam- ship Company's steamer, the Acapulco, bound for Aspinwall. I did not wish our friends to come to see us off, and they didn't come. I always prefer to come in and go out as quietly as possible ; in- deed, coming and going all the time, as I have been doing more than a quarter of a century, my friends could not anticipate my changes. On the eve of one of my departures from London to Australia, a gentleman said : " Mr. Taylor, what is your address now ? " 7 OUK SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. " I am sojourning on the globe, at present, but don't know how soon I shall be leaving." I remember many occasions, however, in lands remote, where my friends did as St. Paul's friends were wont to do accompany me to the ship, "and sorrowed most of all that they should see my face no more." About fifteen years ago, after a successful soul-saving campaign in Tasmania, I preached in Launceston, on the eve of my departure, to a crowded house, at 6 A.M. The whole con- gregation, including some hundreds of persons who had recently received the Saviour, accom- panied me to the ship. They stood on the shore, and sang hymns, and waved adieus till I passed from view. Once, on leaving Sydney, Australia, some of my friends chartered a steamer, and out through that most commodious and beautiful harbor in the world, escorted the ship on which I was passenger, singing hymns and cheering vocifer- ously. The leader of that loving company was a Crown Prosecutor, and a nephew of the Duke of Wellington. I fully appreciated the kind- ness of my friends, but hid away from the gaze of men as soon as I could. Well, there was nothing of that sort when MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEKICA. 9 Bro. T and I bade adieu to our native laud, last October. Indeed, for reasons satisfactory to ourselves, we embarked as steerage passengers. Patrick said to the Judge, " I have thirteen reasons to assign for my father's non-appearance in court. The first reason is that he has been dead for three weeks." " The second reason is " " That one is sufficient," interrupted the Judge. So, for our appearance in the steerage, one reason may suffice. By helping to send missionaries to my work in India, for the last two years, together with heavy traveling and family expenses, my funds were so far spent that I was obliged to go third-class to see my cousins, or not go at all ; paying, as I do, my traveling expenses out of my own pocket, and not out of the pockets of my friends. A first-class ticket from New York to Callao costs two hundred and seventy- five dollars in gold, a third-class ticket, one hundred dollars. I believed, too, that my dig- nity would keep for eighteen days in the steer- age. I have made over sixty sea- voyages first- class, at the cost of enough of my hard-earned dollars to give my sons a university education and keep me comfortably the rest of my life. I thus quietly maintained the appearance, as 10 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. well as the real dignity of a gentleman, and never begrudged a dollar of it, except in a few voyages with the "Peninsula and Oriental S. S. Company," when they included enormous bills for " wine and spirits " in the cost of pas- sage-tickets. On one voyage, my ticket from Suez, in Egypt, to Melbourne, Australia, cost me six hundred dollars. Later, I paid six hundred dollars for a ticket from London to Sydney. I said to the agent, "You charge me more than one hundred dollars extra on a single voyage for l drinks,' when I don't drink a drop, either of wine or spirits." He replied, " All pay alike ; wine and spirits are furnished for all the passengers, and they can drink, or not, as they like." I didn't " like it, but I had to lump it," and pay the bill. Men of fortune, and business men who are making money, ought, by sea and land, to travel first-class, not only for the sake of their own respectability, but to support the carrying companies who provide such grand facilities for the traveling public and for the commerce of the world. But the men and women who cannot afford, from, their own funds, to travel first-class, should MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 11 be humble enough, without any feeling of dis- grace, for it is not disgraceful, to travel third- class, unless they prefer to play " would, if I could," and go second. I can't say that I took naturally to the steer- age. I mingled with the crowd "aft," till the ship "got under way," and then quietly advanced to the forward part of the vessel, where we get the first snuff of the pure breezes, and escape all the accumulated odors of the ship which make the first-class ladies and gen- tlemen so sick. Now, as the bell rings for our departure, let us review the situation. See that Irish girl hanging round the neck of her lover, weeping vociferously. He tears himself away, and hurries off the ship. She rushes through the crowd in pursuit of him, screaming aloud in broken sobs and cries. An officer of the ship arrests her on the gangway and fetches her back. Poor young woman ! she seems quite inconsolable. Here are two blooming brides with their bridegrooms. One pair of them emigrating to California, the other are on a bridal tour to visit kindred in Virginia City, Nevada, by the " Robin-Hood-Barn " route. 12 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. See the beautiful woman in that group She seems in appearance to be on the sunny side of thirty; she is the mother of thirteen children, and, with her kind husband, and loving sons and daughters, all smiling and happy, she is returning to California a Por- tuguese family just from a visit to their " fa- derland." What sort of a shattered, tattered family group is that? An old Irishman and his wife. The poor old bag of bones sitting be- side them is all that remains of their elder brother, who sold all his possessions to raise money for the passage of the lot of them to California, where they hope to pick up gold in the streets. Poor old souls, I do pity them in my heart. If the Blessed Virgin un- dertakes to provide for that lot in California, she will not have much time to spare for her poor children away back on the Emerald Isle. Let us speak to this sick woman lying on the deck. The pretty little girl by her side is her daughter. They have set out to meet husband and father in San Francisco. She is an intelligent lady, and was for years a New England " school-inarm." She is unable MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEKICA. 13 to walk, but her spirit will sustain her infirm- ity, and she will, by the will of God, recover her heaitn, and join her husband. We have here a crowd of representatives of many na- tionalities, but all seem cheerful ; and we find the forward deck an enjoyable place, free and easy as a pic-nic party. There goes the gong. Ho for John China- man, " his rattle ! " " Supper, supper, ladies and gentlemen," shouts the colored caterer for the company. We all march to the music, and gather round our "common board" it is a long " board " about three feet wide ; our board is suspended by ropes from the beams of the upper deck. 'Tis said that people can eat more standing erect than in a sitting pos- ture, so we stand shoulder to shoulder along both sides of the board. Each eater finds before him a tin cup and an iron spoon. A great boiler of tea is passed round, all sweet- ened and ready for use, and the cups are filled. This, with a huge panful of excellent "ship bread," makes up the supper supply. "Our board" is then run up to the ceiling, and sleeping-bunks are extemporized in all the available space between decks. The ladies have a large forward cabin for their own ex- 14 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. elusive use, and not the slightest intrusion ' O allowed. Having some blankets of our own, Bro. T and I prefer a spread on the upper deck, so we commit ourselves to the care of our gracious Father, and sleep sweetly in the light of the stars. There, with rising swell, cadence, and clatter, goes John's rattle again. " Breakfast gentlemen, breakfast." So with a rush we all gather again " round the board." Tin plates, knives and forks, and the familiar tin cup. A great boiler of good sweetened coffee is passed round, and our cups are filled ; hard tack, butter, boiled potatoes, and tough " junk " make up a very digestible breakfast. In all my voyages my only real trouble at sea has been from indigestion. Breakfast at 9 A.M. ; dinner extending through an hour from 5 to 6 P.M., with half a dozen courses of not very digestible food. Such varieties don't suit me. A simpler fare is better, somewhere between this custom of courses, and that of an eccentric English gen- tleman who invited his minister to dine with him, and set before him half a dozen courses of rabbits, dressed up in so many different ways, somewhat after the " firstly," " secondly," MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 15 and " thirdly " fashion in which the Gospel had been served to him. At the close the minister returned thanks thus : 11 Kabbits hot, and rabbits cold, Kabbits young, and rabbits old, Babbits tender, and rabbits tough, Thanks to Providence we've had rabbits enough." Sabbath morning, bright and lovely. I'll get out a hundred copies of Bro. Hasting's ad- mirable little papers, and distribute them to the ship's company " fore and aft." So I go through with a call familiar in the streets at home, but surprising at sea " Morning papers ! morning papers ! Hastings' illustrated ! " " How were the papers received ? " " With a smile, and a ' thank you sir. ' ' ' Some of the first-class passengers exclaimed in sur- prise : " Halloo, here comes a new passenger." " Where did he come from ? " " He seems to have just dropped down from heaven." At 10 A.M. we have the dress parade of all the sailors and servants in their Sunday clothes, for inspection by the captain, and at 11 A.M. we repair to the saloon for "Divine Service." An officer, after the style of a "hop, skip, 16 OUE SOUTH AMERICAN COUSESTS. and a jump," gets over the lessons and prayers of the Episcopal service, and a padre, of medium calibre, discharges his ecclesiastical cannon ; and we respond to John's gong, and do ample justice to the "duff," but the old junk was rather too tough for my teeth. Ninth day out, " land ho ! " See, in the twi- light of morning, the dense foliage of the Isth- mus of Darien ; the soft fleecy clouds drink in and reflect golden rays from the Orient ; the dolphins sport around us ; we are nearing our first port of debarkation. Here we are in " Colon " the Spanish name for Columbus. Poor old Christopher, how he has been stripped of his laurels ! even this little town, on a remote bog of the Carribbean Sea, is not allowed longer to bear his name, but must be called "Aspinwall." The last French Empress sent to this town, as a present, a grand bronze statue of Colum- bus, which extends a protecting arm around the beautiful but timidly crouching statue of an Indian princess. It should be put upon a much larger and more substantial pedestal than the one on which it now stands. This town has grown considerably since I saw it twenty-one years ago. MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEEICA. 17 Our ship's company are bestirring them- selves for departure. "Rail train leaves for Panama at 3 P.M." Our Portuguese family have been patient and cheerful all the way. Our old Irish woman has been sea-sick, and " reaching " hid- eously at all hours, and the two poor old men have never been known to smile since we em- barked, but their place at the "board" has never been vacant. They mean business. The Irish girl who would not be consoled on parting with her lover, has been flirting with the young men all the way. Our sick " school mann " is convalescent. "Bro. T , if you'll stay < with the stuff,' I'll take a hundred copies of 'Hasting's Illustrated,' and make a pastoral tour in the town. Yonder is a colored cousin of ours, with his truck, waiting for an honest job ; I'll begin with him." " Good morning, sir." " Good morning, Captain." " Can you read English ? " "Oyes,sah." "Let me hear you read a little from this paper." He reads readily, and I give him the paper to keep. 18 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. " Where did you learn to read ? " " In Jamaica, sah." " In what part of Jamaica did you live ? " " In Kingston, sah." " To what church did you belong in Kings- ton?" " Coke's Chapel, sah ; de Wesleyan Church, sah." "I have preached in Coke's Chapel many times." " Oh, dear sah, we glad to see you here. If you are come to hunt for de place where you are needed de most, den you has found de field you are huntin'." Now a crowd of hungry fellows gather round, saying, " Give me a paper," " Please, sir, give me a paper." " Can you all read ? " " Oh, yes, sah ; but we don't get many books nor papers to read here, sah. No minister to speak to us, nor to care for us. Won't you stop and be our minister ? " " No, I am sorry to say, I am obliged to pro- ceed on my journey to Peru this afternoon." " We are very sorry. Can't you send us a good minister, to look after us ? " " If I send you one, can you support him ? " MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 19 " Yes ; we'll divide with him what we get, and lie no lack any good thing." " Very well ; I will keep you in mind, and perhaps the Lord may bring me to a man who will be willing to come to live and labor with you." So I proceed from street to street. " Well, did you get rid of all your papers ? " " Oh, yes, indeed, and could have disposed of a hundred more, if I had had them. Many called across the street and from the second- story windows of their dwellings, begging for papers; and many want to know when a preacher can be sent to Colon. The most of the people of this town are from the West India Islands, especially from Jamaica, that being the nearest. All whom I met profess to be religious, having been connected with the various mission churches of their native land. Very few of them, I apprehend, have much spiritual life left, but they remember the days of old, and deplore their utter lack of pastoral care." I visited a poor old woman, who was very sick, and said to her, " Have you been long ill ? " " Yes, minister ; I have been sick long time." " Does the blessed Jesus abide with you, and give you light and comfort ? " 20 OUK SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. "Yes, minister, I pray to God every day; but my friends all gone, and I feel very lone- some." I prayed for the forlorn soul, and gave her financial relief. Train whistling for departure. " All aboard for Panama ! " Passengers, loaded with ba- nanas, get to their places, and now for an excursion of nearly fifty miles through a dense jungle of tropical verdure. As we sweep along the track, we see small fields cleared, some for the pasturage of cattle we see herds of them feeding in them now others, for the cultiva- tion of vegetables and fruits, especially bananas, which supply our New York markets. We pass a number of villages swarming with our sable cousins, living in apparent poverty, but cleanly clad, except the little urchins who have never yet had a thread of clothing, and all smiling with contentment. As our train rolls through these forests, I think of my homeward passage from California, twenty-one years ago. My own dear wife and children were with me then. This was the first railroad my boys had seen. When we slowly moved from the station at Panama, my dear little Charlie exclaimed, " Pa, where are the horses ? " MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEEICA. 21 Coming to a curve, I showed him the engine, saying, " There's the horse, Charlie, see how he snorts." He gazed in great astonishment, and shouted, " Where did they get him ? " My precious boy has long since gone to the countiy where horses are not needed. Here we come into the railway station of Panama, sweeping past files of Colombia's sol- diers, muskets in hand for our protection. We, indeed, need no such defense, but they are ful- filling a promise of their government made to the railroad company a quarter of a century ago, to prevent the possible recurrence of mob violence, by which a few passengers then were badly battered. Here we are mid the noise and confusion of another embarkation. The tug is waiting to convey passengers and their luggage to the steamship Bolivia, in which we are to proceed fifteen hundred miles to Callao. The Bolivia is one of the ships of the Pacific Steam Navi- gation Company. " The Pacific Mail Steamship Company ? " No ; " The Pacific Steam Navigation Com- pany." What Company is that ? 22 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAX COUSINS. The most powerful organization of its kind in the world, except, possibly, the Peninsula and Oriental Company may be equal to it. The fleet of the Pacific Mail Steamship Com- pany contains nineteen steamships, with an aggregate registry of 57,122 tons. They have many magnificent ships, two of which, the City of Peking, and the City of ToMo, have each a registry of 5,080 tons. The fleet of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company consists of forty-seven steamships, with an aggregate registry of 114,285 tons. Ten of their ships exceed 2,000 tons each ; seven exceed 3,000, and six exceed 4,000 tons each, the largest reaching a tonnage of 4,666. The ships of this Company do the principal trans- portation of this coast, from Panama to Pata- gonia. Their largest ships clear from Callao and from Liverpool. They take, every fort- night, freight and passengers from the prin- cipal ports on the west coast, pass through the Straits of Magellan, touch at Montevideo, Rio de Janeiro, Bahia, Pernambuco, Lisbon, and Bordeaux, and proceed thence to Liver- pool. A few years ago the Chile government launched a line of twelve powerful steam- MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 23 ships, in competition for the immense trade of this coast. Both companies sunk a large amount of money in the race, and finally came to an agreement that the two lines should employ the same agents, and have the same rate of charges; the accounts and proceeds of each to be kept separate. The ships of both of these lines are usually loaded to their utmost capacity. But when did this great Pacific Steam Navi- gation Company spring up ? Well, as early as 1844, William Wheel- right, an enterprising American residing in Valparaiso, laid the foundation of it. Having matured his plans, and arranged with all the Republics of the west coast for their execu- tion, he went to New York to secure the requisite capital and co-operation, but our men of means gave him the cold shoulder. He turned away from his own country in disap- pointment and went to England, and there succeeded, by small shares, in raising the funds, and the "Pacific Steam Navigation Company " was organized as the result. Well, here we are still in the railway station at Panama, trying to get our portman- teaus from the luggage car. Nobody in this 24 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. latitude seeins to be in any hurry to push business. We can cany everything we've got in our own hands, but here are two strong fellows waiting for a job, so well give them a chance. * " Where did you come from ? " "From Jamaica, sah." " How long have you been here ? " "About twenty years, sah." " Have- you made your fortune yet ? " "Make a livin', sah. Times very dull here now, sah. Fortune out ob de question, sah." "What church did you attend in Jamaica?" "De Wesley an Church, sah." " What religious services do you have here ? " " None at all, sah, except de Roman Catolic, and we don't take no stock in dat concern, sah. We had a minister here some years ago, but de white people want to read de prars, sah, and de colored people want to sing, sah, and de two parties couldn't agree, sah, so de preacher he done gone away, sah." " Can you colored people raise sufficient funds among yourselves to support a minister if you had one?" " Oh yes, sah, if we had a good minister who would be kind to us, he get support plenty. MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 25 We have in Panama, and in the neighborhood round about the city, at least one thousand Jamaicans, and none of dem don't follow de Catolic religion." " Can your people get a suitable place for meetings if a minister should be sent ? " O " Yes, sah, quick if de minister come." They don't take to reading prayers readily. At a railroad opening celebration in the West, a preacher read an eloquent prayer which he had composed for the occasion ; at the close Sambo exclaimed, "Dah, dat de fust time de Lord was ever written to on de important sub- ject of railroads." Poor perishing sheep in the wilderness ! can no man be found who will come and care for their souls ? But would not a minister take Panama fever, and die there ? Possibly, but the risk of life for him would not be greater than that of hundreds of Euro- peans and Americans who reside there, and who appear to be as healthy as the people of New York. The United States Consul of Aspinwall, Vice-Consul, and their families, who have been there over five years, have had no serious illness. Dr. Long, our Consul at 26 OUK SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. Panama, has been there, I think he told me over thirty years, and he is a fine specimen of vigorous, healthy old age. I saw scores of resident Europeans and Americans there, merchants and others, whose appearance is as healthful as that of persons in any other country. Strong drink, and the lustful ex- cesses to which it leads, should answer for three-fourths of the mortality which has given fame to Panama. "Yes," replied Bro. T , "when I crossed this Isthmus before the railroad was built, I and another teetotaler, acting upon the ad- vice of good, pious friends in New York, pro- vided ourselves each with a bottle of brandy. We carefully selected the brand specially re- commended as an antidote to the malaria of the Isthmus. We uncorked, and commenced to take the medicine as soon as we landed in Colon, and before the boatmen had rowed us up the Chagres River, we emptied our bottles, and had to get a fresh supply. It made both of us sick, and it was a wonder that we did not die, as many of our fellow-passengers did, as I believe, from the effects of brandy and ex- cess in eating fresh tropical fruits, to the use of which they had never been accustomed." MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEEICA. 27 " All aboard for the JBofovia.* We reacted our ship far down in the Panama Bay, after miles of tug-steaming. The Bolivia is a staunch iron ship of 1,925 tons register. She has three decks, with lofty space between. The hurricane deck is covered with canvas awnings fore and aft. We third-class folks find our bunks ready for us on the forward part of the main deck, where we can enjoy the full sweep of the breezes, so refreshing in tropical heat. The first-class ladies and gentlemen have their saloon and cabins on " the upper deck." The regular hour for dinner is past, so we go to the cook and get a good broiled steak pre- pared to order. We like our sleeping accommo- dations better here than in the Acapulco. All the passengers of our class have left us, except a German watchmaker from La Pass, Bolivia, He knows enough of English to give us much valuable information about the interior of this great country. Here, in our new quarters, we have no "board" around which to "gather." Each passenger is provided with a tin cup, soup-pan, and spoon. At 6 A.M., Cousin Cholo appears with a pot of hot coffee and a box of hard-tack, 28 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. both of superior quality. At 10 A.M., the same rotund, thick-set young Indian presents himself with a great pot of beef-soup, potatoes, and " tack ; " and at 6 P.M., he reappears with tack and tea. This is the regular daily fare ; but each passenger is allowed to make a special arrangement with the cook and the baker, to suit his own taste. Bro. T and I could have gotten on well with the bill of fare named, but we paid the cook five dollars for a daily dinner for eight days; roast beef, and a variety of vegetables piled together in one course on a large deep plate. Sabbath, the 2 7th, the eleventh day out from New York, as the sun is sinking below the horizon of the great waters of the west, we enter the mouth of the Guayas River. Here it is about twenty miles wide ; eighty miles up- stream, opposite the City of Guayaquil, it is about a mile in width at high tide. Among our passengers are Mr. Mero, Mr. Warburton, and an old Texian California miner, whom we call " Texas," and several other Cali- fornians who have "seen better days." Mr. Mero, a Canadian, resides in Concepcion, Chile. He is a railroad engineer, and has been to Cali- MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEEICA. 29 forma seeking a more congenial home for him- self and his Chileno wife and children. Un- able to find a hole in our Golden State in which to dig, and having spent money enough in prospecting to buy a western farm, he is going back to seek success and contentment in his old business in Chile. Mr. Warburton is an Englishman, by trade a founder, who has been employed in many of the great foundries of the United States for years, always getting good wages ; but he is a " rolling stone " that gathers no moss. " Texas " is the comical yarn-spinner for the company. As we ascend this beautiful river, he walks the hurricane deck, sniffs the air, and gets off squibs about the fever-breeding region we are entering. "O, Jupiter," he exclaims, " did you ever smell the like of that since the day you were bom ! I tell you what it is, friends, if you take a few more sniffs of that sort, you may just as well close up your ac- counts and prepare to leave." Light ahead the City of Guayaquil. What an extraordinary light ; brighter and brighter ! It must be an illuminated house, but at this distance it presents the appearance of a great sheet of flame, reflecting what appears like a 30 OUK SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. stream of fire far along the surface of the placid waters. Nearer still, we see the illumination of one great building, much after the fashion of the Hindus. Now we hear the music a full band and drum. Monday morning. "What sort of an enter- tainment was that last night in the city ? " "It was an anniversary celebration of St. Simon's day ; a grand fandango the dancers danced all night." Yes ; I heard them every time I awoke, till the dawn of the morning a pious Sunday night's exercise in honor of St. Simon. What Simon was that ? Simon Peter, Simon the Pharisee, Simon the Leper, Simon Magus, Simon the Tanner, or some modern saint of that name ? Nobody seems to know or care so much about the dead saint, as for the living sinners who 7 O grace the occasion with their presence. Now for the ship's music; the instruments are four " steam winches " working all at once. Here we see one turning out a lot of freight O O from New York large quantities of lard, bacon, crushed sugar, etc., and there goes a veritable cabinet organ. But what strikes the stranger is the shipment of more than two hundred tons of fruits for the Callao markets pineapples, MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEEICA. 31 limes, lemons, oranges, mangoes, plantains, and bananas by the cord. The after half of the main deck is piled to the joists, leaving but a narrow path on each side next to the officer's cabins. The upper deck is packed in the same way, leaving the first-class passengers barely space enough for ingress and egress. Halloo ! they are taking down our bunks what does this mean ? "All the third class passengers must gather up their luggage, and go to the after part of the hurricane deck." So all are busy collect- ing their luggage, and preparing for an exodus to a higher region. O C5 "Why do they want to clear us off this deck we are getting on well here ? " "They want space for two hundred bul- locks, to be taken aboard at Payta." So we " vamoose the ranch " to make room for the steers. Well, here we are in our new quarters, cov- ered with canvas duck ; good, better, best ; high above the fruit barricade that shuts in our unfortunate first-class fellow-passengers, the best ventilation in the ship, and the whole length of the hurricane deck as a promenade ; but we have an immense accession to our num- 32 OTJK SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. bers. After twenty -four hours' steaming, our anchor drops in the roadstead of Payta. What a bleak coast; not a shrub, not a blade of grass to be seen, not even a stalk of cactus, that takes root in a rock and lives on the wind. Introduced to Mr. Foulks, an American gen- tleman, who has lived four years in the Piura Valley, twenty miles distant. The city of Piura is a hundred miles inland. Twenty miles of the distance traversed by a railroad. It is a beautiful city, celebrated for its mineral springs a resort of health-seekers from all parts of Europe. Mr. Foulks has come to receive his wife and two little sons, who came with us from New York a happy meeting. Mrs. Foulks is a member of the Dutch Reformed Church, and will, I hope, let her light shine in the dark vales of Piura. Mr. Foulks says the valleys of Piura are as fruitful as the garden of Eden, both in the variety and quality of their productions. Here come the bullocks from Mr. Foulks' "garden of Eden." The lighters for conveying freight to and from the ship are simply rafts of " balsa wood" logs, said to be buoyant as cork. I MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEEICA. 33 have just counted seventy huge beef cattle on a single raft, surrounded by a railing, a real " corral." The cattle are tied each by a rope to the railing. Now we shall see the process of slinging them from the raft to the deck of the ship. I suppose they will belt them, and hoist them up, as I used to see it done in San Francisco. See cousin Cholo adjusting the noose of the great "sling-rope" round the horns of that bullock yonder. Up, up, in a moment the huge beast is suspended by his horns in mid air. Up he comes, his eyes rolling in terror. He is lowered, and laid down on the deck; instantly he springs to his feet, but another member of the Cholo family holds to the leading rope around his horns, while another seizes him by the tail, and what with pulling and pushing, and cracking the joints of the poor beast's tail, he is tied securely in his place. I am surprised at the gentleness of these cattle. There's a Cholo walking upon the backs of a pack of them on the raft. "Yes," replies the first mate, "they seem gentle enough now, but if you had gone into the corral where they were 'lassoed,' you would have seen them in another mood. I 2* 34 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. went one day to get a dozen choice bullocks for the ship. The owner told me to go in and make my own selection ; so I walked in. They made a furious charge, and if I had not suc- ceeded in leaping the fence they would have gored me to death." On they come, each one suddenly "pulled up," and passing through the same experience of surprise and terror in the ascent, and of manifest relief when they feel themselves standing again on their legs. Two hundred and two beef cattle are thus stowed away as closely as they can stand. While we are watching this scene, the new passengers from Payta have "squatted" on every foot of vacant space on the after part of the hurricane deck. Happily our sleep- ing space was covered by our blankets and portmanteaus, and our claim has not been " jumped ; " but since the days of Noah, who ever saw the like of this scene ? I have trav- eled with crowds of Mohammedan pilgrims in the Mediterranean, but they had left their live- stock at home. Only behold how our cousins travel. Each family has its small premises on the deck. The bed is usually in the centre, surrounded by boxes, bundles and bags, on MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 35 and around which are the parents, children, servants, dogs, poultry, and pets of every kind. Next me on the " larboard " side is a huge chest. The owner sleeps on it, and, close to my pillow, he has a cock and a few hens, to wake me early in the morning. Close to our feet are two well-dressed Chinamen. Nearly opposite, on the " starboard "'' side, is a quiet, seriously-disposed peacock, a beautiful creature, but apparently he does not enjoy sea life. Next to him is poor old Briggs, a broken- down cooper from a condemned whaling ship. Mr. B., as might be supposed, is from New Bedford, but has been on this coast for about thirty years. -His Chileno wife and grown-up children reside in Talcahuana, and he is home- ward bound. He says he got the bishop to marry him, and paid him two hundred dollars for the job, and had, as usual in this country, to promise to be a good Roman Catholic. He would be a very tall man if he would stand erect, but what with hard work, and hard drinking, he is badly bent. He is greatly annoyed by a game-cock that persistently mounts his chest to crow. The short string that holds him will not admit of his reach- ing the cooper's bag that lies across the end 36 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSESTS. of his chest, but from time to time he flies up, and by the aid of his wings, hangs upon the bag by one leg, and crows till old B.'s hard words fetch him down. Near neighbor to Briggs is a well-dressed, patient, blind cousin of ours. He seems to be a brother of the man who sleeps upon his big box next to me. Over my head hangs a huge gourd perforated with air-holes to give ventilation to its inhabitants a lot of very small pet birds. A few feet forward of us is a domesticated "fly up the creek," differing a little from the species of North America. He seems to view the situation calmly. Next to the water-fowl is a huge turkey-gobbler, appar- ently as much at home as if in a barn-yard, and quite as noisy as if he were in one. Par- rots and paroquets keep up a continual chatter- ing. Monkeys jump about and give variety to the scene. Ducks and geese sustain their parts of the music, and birds of nearly every feather contribute their notes to the harmony. Down yonder we see a lot of huge lobsters fresh from the sea, and on that great ridge of bananas are a number of land terrapins crawl- ing about for bodily exercise. This is life among our country cousins : such sights and MY VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEEICA. 37 sounds ! It is worth a voyage from New York just to travel a week thus with our kin in their unrestrained real life, as they have it at home. On Thursday, the 3d of November, we woke up at anchor in Callao harbor. I can truly say, as it regards wholesonxj fare, and improved condition of health, it was the best voyage of my life. II. BIKD'S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMEBICA. BEFOKE we enter upon the details of real life in this land, let us ascend to the summit of Chimborazo, a full view of which we had on our voyage down the coast, and, like Moses from Pizgah, take one grand view of the whole continent. A minister in England, of my acquaintance, once made a visit to Ireland ; lauding at Kings- town, near the city of Dublin, he heard, among the crowd of "jaunting car" drivers, one fellow shouting in a stentorian voice, "Here, gentlemen, is the poetical horse ! Here's your chance for a ride after the poetical horse ! " The minister, struck with the novelty of such a ride, soon mounted the car and was on his way toward the city, quite in advance of all the company; but soon they all drove past and left him far in the rear. The minister, with some show of disap- 38 BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMEEICA. 39 pointment and impatience, said to the driver : " Why do you call this lazy brute a poetical horse ? " "Sure, and he is. May it plaze your riv- erence, and it's yourself that can see that he is a poetical horse, for all his going is in his imagination." Thus we shall go in imagination to the top of Chiniborazo, since ascent by any other mode is impossible, and view the land where our kindred dwell. Here we are at an elevation of 21,420 feet above the roll of the ocean; here, perpetual snow has resisted through the a^es the melt- O O ing heat of a tropical sun ; here, by telescopic mental vision, we scan the outlines of one of the greatest continents of the globe, and get glimpses of its vast and varied resources and populations. This stupendous mountain, on whose sublime height we stand, is lo- cated near the equator, within the geograph- ical boundaries of the Republic of Ecuador. We stand on but one of numerous towering altitudes of the Andes. There is our near neighbor, "Antisana," rising to an elevation of 19,137 feet, and her twin sister, "Cotopaxi," 18,880 feet high. This twin sister got into a 40 OUE SOUTH AMEKICAJf COUSINS. dreadful paroxysm last June, and belched up through her awful throat countless millions of tons of ashes. A merchant residing in the city of Quito told me that in that city, more than twenty miles distant, at 4 P.M. of that dismal day, the clouds of ashes so darkened the heavens that the people had to light their lamps. "Having business down in the city," said he, "I carried my umbrella, and it caught such an accumulation of ashes that I had to lower and shake it, precisely as in a heavy fall of snow. This continued till the ground was covered with ashes four inches deep." The twin sister had just cleared her throat ; then with an awful heaving, she discharged great burning bowlders, followed by a river of lava that rushed down the sides of the mountain and consumed and swept away a number of villages, including many of the best cotton manufactories in the country. To intensify the horrors of that memorable night, the devil of revolution broke loose in the city of Quito, and the ashes were reddened with the blood of many of our unhappy cousins. As usual, the strife was between the "liberal" and the " church " parties. The liberals triumphed. BIED'S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMERICA. 41 Scanning these high altitudes south west- wardly, we see two great ranges of the Andes extending southwardly through the continent from Ecuador to the Straits of Magellan. They are about a hundred miles distant from each other. The westerly range is the great back- bone of the continent a huge rampart extend- ing from the equator to Patagonia, about four thousand miles, without a single break or pass. The rivers of the west coast are, as a matter of course, comparatively small. The vast extent of countiy between these two great Cordilleras is covered by highland plains, lakes, detached mountains and valleys. The easterly Andes range, though one con- tinuous chain, vying in its sublime heights with those of the west, has a number of breaks through which the rivers, fed by the heavy rains and dissolving snows of the moun- tains, find their way north, east, and south to the Atlantic Ocean. Far to the northeast, we see the Orinoco, 1,500 miles in length, with its numerous trib- utaries, trending its way through Venezuela to the sea. Away to the southeast we see the great river of British Guiana, the Essequibo. Di- 42 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. rectly east of us flows, not the longest, but tlie largest river on the globe, fed by more than a hundred tributaries, running from all points of the compass. The Mississippi is about 4,000 miles in length ; the Amazon is reputed to be 3,600 miles long, but I have not seen the man who had measured it. More accu- rate surveys may prove it to be much longer than it is now supposed to be. Far down to the southeast we behold a stream 2,250 miles in length, which is 150 miles wide at its mouth Rio de la Plata, the River of Silver. Now let us glance at the Republic of Ecua- dor. It extends from north latitude 1 50' to south latitude 40 50', and from 70 to 80 west longitude. It comprises an area of 248,- 380 square miles. Its population is officially set down at 1,308,000, of whom one half are aboriginal tribes. I will have you under- stand from the beginning that I have not surveyed these countries nor counted their inhabitants; and therefore cannot vouch for minute accuracy beyond an exact copy of offi- cial statistics, which may be relied upon as sufficiently accurate for our purpose. Our Ecuadorean cousins are reputed to be very industrious. They cultivate the soil, BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMERICA. 43 gather indigenous products of the mountains, and carry on various industries, especially the manufacture of woolen and cotton goods. But owing to excessive rains, earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and political revolutions, their coun- try is often devastated and its inhabitants impoverished. Quito, the capital, has a population of fifty thousand souls. They carry on a large inland trade with their neighbors of the United States of Columbia, Guayaquil, with a population of fifteen thousand, on the banks of the Guayas River, eighty miles up from its mouth, is the prin- cipal port of Ecuador. The Guayas is the largest river of the west coast, but is navi- gable for large ships only about a hundred miles. Now adjust your glass and scan the ever- green forests of Ecuador. Away on those mountain ridges are forests of the cinchona tree, the tree that furnishes Peruvian bark, from which quinine is prepared. I have read somewhere that its medical qualities were first manifested in the cure of a lady of note in Lima, whose name was Cinchona; hence this foreign name of the tree, and the asso- 44 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. elation of Peru with its bark. One of its native names is quine ; hence, quinine. Lower down, the eye rests upon the deep- green glossy foliage of the india-rubber trees. They are tapped like the sugar-maple, and the sap is boiled down to its proper consist- ency. This tree, however, differing from the sugar tree, bleeds to death by the tapping of one season ; and but few of these, or of the cinchona, are planted to supply the waste caused by their destruction. Upon a yet lower level down along the lesser hills and the vales, we discover culti- vated orchards of the cocoanut, and the cocoa- bean trees, both of similar name, but entirely different in species. The cocoa-bean tree is somewhat similar to the orange, but its fruit is not suspended from the small branches, as is the case with oranges and apples. The pods, about two inches in diameter, and about six in length, are red when ripe. These pods grow out of the trunk of the tree, and from the thicker portion of the large limbs. The beans are dried and exported in sacks to Europe, where the oil is expressed for various purposes, and of the oil-cake, cho- BIKD'S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMERICA. 45 colate and cocoa are manufactured for table use. These beans pay the Ecuadorian culti- vater a better profit than any other product. In the valleys are plantations of sugar, coffee, cotton, tobacco, a great variety of veg- etables, and the most marvelous growth of tropical fruits. It often requires two men to handle a bunch of plantains. This fruit in appearance is very much like the banana, but is quite a different kind of fruit, being edible only when baked or fried. The mountain slopes and ravines of Ecua- dor are said to be rich in minerals gold, sil- ver, quicksilver, lead, iron, copper, and eme- ralds ; but these mines are not worked as yet with any considerable profit. Ecuador has a revenue of about $2,000,000, and a public debt of $3,500,000. Her im- ports to Great Britain alone for 1876 amounted to $1,146,210, and her corresponding exports were $1,222,585. The government makes lib- eral appropriations for public instruction, but I am told that much time is taken in counting beads and repeating "Ave Marias," and not much solid, useful instruction imparted. Pass- ing the northern boundaries of Ecuador, glance at the UNITED STATES OF COLOMBIA, a group 46 OUE SOUTH AMERICAN COUSIXS. of nine States covering the north-western part of the continent, together with Darien, the Isthmus connecting; the two continents of O America. The Kepublic of Colombia extends from 36' to 12 25' north latitude, and from 69 14' to 83 west longitude, comprising an area of 320,750 square miles, occupied by a population numbering 2,851,858 : more than half are whites and half-castes. Three great ranges of the Andes traverse this Republic, the easterly being the largest, with a series of vast table-lands abounding in all tropical prod- ucts, as also in some of those of the temperate zone. The climate is asserted to be salubrious and healthful. Most of our Colombian cous- ins reside on the plateaus included in an ex- tensive cool mountain region. The inhabitants of these States hold a high rank among their South American neighbors for intelligence and culture. The Panama Star and Herald is one of the great journals of this newspaper age. According to authentic statistical state- ments, this Republic appropriates more than a million of dollars annually for public instruc- tion ; it supports 2,113 common schools, and six- ty academies and colleges for higher education. Religious liberty, too, is established by law. BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMEEICA. 47 The annual revenue of these States is about three and a half million dollars ; their national debt, ten millions. Bogota, with a population of 40,000, is the capital. We next glance at the REPUBLIC OF VENE- ZUELA. It covers an area of 403,276 square miles, and contains a population of 1,784,194. Her annual revenue is three and a half mill- ions; her public debt, forty millions. For a small country, her exports of coffee, cocoa, sug- ar, tobacco, indigo, cinchona-bark, dye-woods, hides, tallow, timber, and metallic ores are large. Most of these products are sent to Great Britain and Europe. Her annual im- ports from England amount to over three million dollars. I recently traveled ^vith a merchant who had resided ten years in this Republic. He told me that seven revolutions had taken place during that period, each revo- lution installing a new President. This pro- tracted struggle was between the Church and Liberal parties. The Liberal eventually tri- umphed, and drove the Jesuits out of the country. Since their exodus, during a period of seven years, the country has enjoyed peace and prosperity. God bless our Venezuelan cousins ! 48 OUE SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. Easterly from Venezuela, we see British, Dutch, and French Guiana. BRITISH GUIANA covers an area of 85,000 square miles, extending from 8 40' to 40' north of the Equator, and contains a popula- tion of 200,000 souls, of whom 1,500 are English; about 30,000 are East Indians and 10,000 Chinamen. With some small tribes of Aborigines, the remainder are of African descent. Georgetown, in the Province of Demerara, and New Amsterdam, in the Province of Ber- bice, are the only towns of any note. This is a country of extensive unbroken forests, but the lowlands bordering upon the Atlantic are cultivated. The large sugar estates are bounded and subdivided by canals instead of fences; and for transporting the products of the fields boats are used instead of wagons. Causeways, formed by the soil raised in dig- ging the canals, are made into roads for pub- lic travel. Here mangoes, plantains, bananas, oranges, cocoanuts, and other tropical fruits, and a great variety of vegetables abound. The annual exports of British Guiana to England, consisting principally of sugar and rum, amount to about fourteen millions of dol- BIED'S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMEEICA. 49 lars. I ever cherish a grateful remembrance of the kindness of my cousins during my so- journ in British Guiana about twelve years ago, and of the happy hundreds of them who received the Savior during my labors among them. The Essequibo, a large navigable river, tra- verses the whole length of their country. Now adjust your lens of a telescope for a horizontal sweep over the vast EMPIEE OF BEA- ZIL. Our royal cousin, His Majesty Dom Pe- dro, honored our Centennial Exhibition in Philadelphia with his presence. This great country was discovered by Pedro Alvarez Cabral, a Portuguese navigator, in the year A. D. 1500. It is bounded on the north by the Atlantic Ocean, Guiana, and Venezuela; on the west and south-west by the United States of Co- lombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Paraguay, and the Argentine Republic; on the south by Uraguay ; and on the east by the Atlantic Ocean. It extends from 4 30' north latitude, to 33 45' south, and from 34 45' to 72 30' west longitude. This vast domain stretches from north to south a distance of two thou- sand six hundred miles, and two thousand five 3 50 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. hundred miles from the Atlantic to the Andes, covering an area of 3,288,000 square miles. Many Yankees entertain the idea that we possess the largest country on the globe. We do not say that our people are not, in some re- spects, the most extraordinary people on the globe ; but, be that as it may, here are some figures to be considered. The United States covers an area of 3,026,094 square miles, not including Alaska, which con- tains 1,539,706 square miles, and a fractional squatter's claim of 160 acres. Hence, the do- main of the Empire of Brazil is 261,906 square miles larger than the domain of the United States of North America. The population of Brazil is put down at 10,200,000 a little less than one-fourth of the population of the United States. One mill- ion and a half of these were slaves, but, by a law passed on September 28th, 1871, providing for gradual emancipation, their bonds have been broken, and a few years hence there will not be a slave in the realm. Half a million are Indians. There are fifty German colo- nies, containing 40,000 Germans, and quite a sprinkling of English and Scotch ; but the great bulk of the population are of Portuguese BIED'S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMEEICA. 51 descent and mixed blood. The Portuguese language is the common vernacular of the peo- ple of Brazil. The army consists of 16,600 men, enlisted voluntarily. The navy includes fifty-four ves- sels; eleven of them are iron-clads, and sev- en are monitors. The Empire is divided into twenty Provinces, and certain territories. It possesses unequaled facilities, in the number and size of its rivers, for interior navigation, and has about 2,000 miles of railroads in run- ning order. The lowlands abound in all tropical pro- ductions. The table-lands, at the elevation of from three to five thousand feet, produce plen- tifully of the temperate-zone cereals and fruits. The mineral resources of Brazil are believed to be good, but have not yet been extensively explored. The revenue of Brazil for 1876 was upward of $58,000,000. In common with other countries, great and small, she has a heavy national debt, amount- ing to about $300,000,000. Her annual imports from and exports to England alone amount respectively to about $30,000,000. 52 CUE SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. May the gracious God of Nations cause His face to shine on Dom Pedro II. and on his people ! Amen ! Now pause a moment to contemplate the spunky little REPUBLIC OF PARAGUAY. It is sandwiched between Brazil and the Argentine Republic, yet it has an interesting history of its own. It was under the dominion of the Jesuits for two hundred years. Finally, in 1768, the people rose and expelled them from their borders. Later, in 1811, they broke off the Spanish yoke, and became an independent nation. Their territory comprises an area of 56,700 square miles, occupied by 300,000 people. Their annual government revenue amounts to about $600,000. Our Paraguayan cousins are entitled to our confidence and love. The Lord bless them ! Still farther on, beyond the southern boun- dary of the great Brazilian Empire, is the little REPUBLIC OF URUGUAY. A river bearing its own name bounds it on the west, with the Rio de La Plata and the Atlantic on the south and east. Our Uruguan cousins obtained their inde- pendence in 1825. They own 70,000 square BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMEEICA. 63 miles of land, maintain a population of 550,000, and have an annual revenue of six and a half million dollars. England sells them every year about $5,000,000 worth of her manu- factures, and buys of them about $4,000,000 worth of their products, these consisting large- ly of wool, hides, hams, and tallow. We will now glance at the vast country of our Argentine cousins, numbering about 2,000,000. Their country, the ARGENTINE REPUBLIC, extends from 22 to 41 south lati- tude, and contains 838,600 square miles. Be- sides, they claim all that portion of Patagonia east of the Andes, adding 376,000 square miles to their domain, and 24,000 Indians to their population. Buenos Ayres is their great em- porium. Thirteen lines of steamers ply be- tween that city and Europe, whence an im- mense immigration, especially from Italy, is continually pouring into the Republic. Our cousins there are an enterprising people, and, besides a heavy export of raw materials com- mon to South America, they export, annually, in wrought and unwrought iron to the val- ue of $3,125,000; woolen manufactures, over $2,000,000; cotton goods, over $4,500,000; apparel and haberdashery, $1,400,000; hard- 54 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. ware and cutlery, nearly $1,000,000 ; leather, saddlery, and harness, over $800,000. They have about 1,000 miles of railroads. Well done, ye thrifty Argentine cousins. The REPUBLIC OF CHILE next demands our attention. The grandest mountain of the whole Andes range is in Chile, the Acancagua, which rises to an elevation of 23,100 feet above the ocean. Its summit would be a better stand- point for our present view, but we will not be at the trouble to change our base. Chile lies between the great west chain of the Andes and the ocean, a well- watered, fertile country, about one hundred miles in width. As Ar- gentina claims all of Patagonia east of the Andes, so Chile claims all of that dreary re- gion west of the Andes. The domain of Chile, therefore, extends from Bolivia to Cape Horn from latitude 20 to 50 south, a stretch of 2,200 miles. Chile is divided .into sixteen Provinces, and has a geographical area of 126,060 square miles. According to the statistical pamphlet they presented at the Centennial Exhibition in Phil- adelphia, their population reaches 2,319,266. The annual revenue of Chile is about $16,- 000,000; her national debt, about $50,000,- BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMERICA. 55 000. Her foreign imports for 1876 were $35,- 291,041. Her exports to foreign countries for the same year were $37,771,139. She has in operation 865 miles of railway, of which 465 miles belong to the government, and the remain- ing 400 miles to private companies. So says my friend, John Slater, Esq., and he is one of the principal builders of the Chilean railroads. Hereafter I shall have more to say about our Chilean cousins and their grand country. We will now give a passing glance at the REPUBLIC OF PERU. It is divided into nineteen Provinces, covers an area of 503,380 square miles, extending from latitude 3 to 22 10' south, and contains a population of 2,699,000, of whom 1,365,000 are males, 1,335,000 are females. It is affirmed by those who have made this a matter of observation and study that about two-thirds of the people of Peru are Indians ; of the remaining one -third 60,000 are Chinese, 17,000 Italians, 2,500 English, 3,000 Germans, 2,200 French, and 600 North Americans. The western range of the Andes traverses the Republic of Peru through its entire length of 1,300 miles, about sixty miles distant from the coast and parallel with it. The whole re- gion looks like a great desert, except where it 56 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. is crossed by the little rivers from the moun- tains. With sufficient water the soil is won- derfully productive. For example, the Valley of Chincama, north of Lima, exported sugar last year to the value of 14,400,000 hard dol- lars. Some single estates yield eight thou- sand dollars' worth of sugar per day. The climate is so equable that they can cut and crush the sugar-cane during every month in the year. These estates are owned princi- pally by our Peruvian cousins, and worked by Chinese coolies. The valley in which these estates are lo- cated is connected by about 60 miles of rail- way with the port of Salaverry. The city of Trujillo, with a population of 15,000, is six miles inland from the port. Back of this val- ley, near the mountains, is a targe deposit of good anthracite coal. The mountain valleys east, and much of the country of Peru lying between the great Andes ranges, are very fer- tile in all tropical cereals, fruits, and vegeta- bles. Peru is rich in silver and copper mines, but her great source of available wealth is in her deposits of guano and saltpeter. Her Henry Meiggs's railroads are the greatest won- ders of the world in railway engineering. BIED'S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMEKICA. 57 Peru lias an annual revenue of about $30,- 000,000, with an expenditure exceeding that sum, and a burden of over $200,000,000 of debt to carry. Her paper currency has shrunk to half its nominal value. The great trouble with Peru has been that the government was so rich that a large proportion of the upper class- es, instead of developing the resources of the country by personal industry, quartered them- selves on the government, and demanded a carte blanche on the public treasury. "When this was denied them by the party in power, the next thing was to raise a revolu- tion, put the rulers out, and put themselves in. Now that the treasury is empty, and the national credit at a great discount in the money markets of the world, it is to be hoped that peace will prevail, and that personal in- dustry will develop a principle of self-reliance, and will secure adequate means of subsistence for our upper-class cousins. I believe the country will recover her credit, and pros- per, and be all the wiser for her hard experi- ence. Peru has 600 miles of railroads in operation, all, except two short bits of road, owned by the government. Altogether they have drained 58 OUE SOUTII AMERICAN COUSINS. the exchequer of $135,000,000. More here- after about this interesting country. We must descend from the snowy heights of Chimborazo before we freeze to death, but ere we depart we must pause a moment to see the home of our Bolivian cousins. The REPUBLIC of BOLIVIA was called after its Washington, Simon Bolivar. It extends from 9 to 26 15' south latitude, and contains 500,870 square miles of mountains and val- leys with about 200 miles of coast on the Pa- cific. Along this coast line she has four ports, but most of her transportation is through Peruvian ports. Her hardy mountaineer sons and daughters of toil, cousins of ours, count up to the number of two millions. Her exports consist largely of the wool of her flocks of alapaca, llama, vicuna and sheep : also of cinchona-bark, medical herbs, silver and copper. She has a revenue of about two and three-quarter minion dollars, with a debt of ten millions. Her army consists, according to printed statements, of 1,100 officers, and 3,000 privates. Her capital and largest city is La Paz, with a population of 77,000. I know you must be weary; but stay a BIED"S-EYE VIEW OF SOUTH AMERICA. 59 moment while I give you one or two grand summary facts to ponder at your leisure. These South American nations sum up a total population of over 26,000,000. Add to this the populations of Central America and Mexico, and we shall find the grand total to be about 38,000,000 of the Latin and mixed races, nearly all speaking one common language, our cous- ins and next-door neighbors. Should we not love them, and endeavor' by every possible means to do them good ? III. OUR ANCIENT INCA COUSINS. THE Empire of the Incas embraced the country now occupied by Peru, Bolivia, and Ecuador. Its population is estimated to have been about 12,000,000, double the number of people now residing within the same geograph- ical boundaries. The only historic records of the Incas of any date prior to the Spanish con- quest of their countiy in 1550, are the relics and monuments of their own industry and mechanical skill, still found among the ruins of their ancient homes. From historic data of this sort many volumes have been written. Perhaps the best work on the subject is the very elaborate book by E. George Squier, M.A., F.S.A., published by the Harper Broth- ers. That is the book for the student of this ancient extinct empire ; but I will give a few extracts from it, to convey some gen- eral idea of its construction and civilization. CO OUR ANCIENT ITS T CA COUSINS. 61 The Inca nation proper developed in the An- des region, from Lake Titicaca to Cusco, their capital. In course of time they conquered and absorbed the great Chiniti nation, and other tribes, dwelling in the valleys and plains along the Pacific coast. The Chiinu were great build- el's of adobe palaces and towel's ; the Incas were wonderfully skilled in stone masonry. I will give but a few descriptive examples from the pen of Mr. Squier. About 10 south latitude, in what is now North Peru, in a beautiful val- ley, six miles wide and fifteen miles long, watered by the river Moche, is the ancient capital of our old cousin Chimu. "The city now consists of a wilderness of walls, forming great inclosures, each containing a labyrinth of ruined dwelling and other edifices. On O one side of the city is a heavy wall, several miles of which are still standing. From this wall, extending inward at right angles, are other walls of scarcely inferior elevation, inclos- ing great areas which have never been built upon, and which fall off in low terraces care- fully cleared of stones, each with its aque- ducts for irrigation." These were doubtless O the gardens and pleasure-grounds of our old Chiinu cousins. Outside the wall are two rect- 62 OUK SOUTH AMEEICAK COUSINS. angular inclosures, situated about a quarter of a mile apart, each containing a truncated pyra- mid. The first of these inclosures is 252 feet long by 222 feet wide. The remains of the wall are 14 feet high and 6 feet thick. The pyramid is 162 feet square, and 50 feet in height. It is built, as are the walls, of compact rubble, or tenacious clay mixed with broken stones so as to form a solid, enduring mass. This appears to have been the burying-place for girls from five to fifteen years of age. The other pyramid is 240 feet long by 210 feet wide. The outer walls are 20 feet high and 8 feet thick, with an inner mound 172 feet long by 152 feet wide, and 40 feet high. There is in this city a reservoir 450 feet long by 195 feet in width, and 60 feet deep, with terraced steps of clean-cut stones extending down to the bottom. Cousin Chimu built another pyr- amid in this neighborhood called the Temple of the Sun, which was over 800 feet long, 470 feet wide, covering an area of over seven acres. The greatest height of this terraced structure is upward of 200 feet. It is built of huge adobes. The Chimu family were not only great build- ers, but skillful workers in gold, silver, and cop- OITE ANCIENT INCA COUSINS. 63 per, especially in ornamental imitations of fish, lizards, snakes, and birds. They also made agricultural instruments in bronze, together with knives, trowels, etc. They excelled in the manufacture of pottery, and could make as fine cotton goods as are woven in Manchester or New England looms of to-day. Mr. Squier examined a piece in which he " counted 62 threads of warp and woof to the inch. The finest Egyptian mummy cloth has but 44 threads to the inch." Mr. Squier gives an account of the Mecca of the Chimu. Here are a few illustrative para- graphs : The Ruins of Pachacamac^ on the banks of the river Lurin, are situated on a higli bluff overlooking the sea, twenty miles south of the city of Lima. Pachacamac was the chief di- vinity of our ancient Peruvian cousins. " The name signifies, l He who animates the universe ' l the Creator of the world.' r A chronicler of Pizzaro, named Estete, gives the following account of the idol bearing this great name, and of the place he occupied. " The idol was in a good house, well painted and finished. In one room, closely shut, very dark and stinking, was the idol, made of wood, very dirty, which 64 CUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. they call god, who creates and sustains all things. At his feet were some offerings of golden ornaments. He is held in such high veneration, that none except his priests and servants, whom it is supposed he has elected, may enter his presence, or touch .the walls of the house. He is held throughout the country as god, and to this idol they make great sacri- fices : and pilgrims from a distance of nine hundred miles and more bring offerings of gold, silver, and clothing. These they give to the custodian, who enters and consults the idol, and returns with his answer. All the people from a great distance who come every year to pay tribute to this temple have houses in which to place their offerings." "This town of Pachacainac," continues Es- tete, " is a great thing ; alongside of the temple is a house on a hill, well built, with five in- closures or walls, which the Indians say is the sun " probably dedicated to sun worship. " There are also in the town nmny other large houses, with terraces like those of Spain. It must be a very old place, for there are numer- ous fallen edifices. It has been surrounded by a wall, although now most of it is fallen. It has large gates for entering, and also streets." OUR ANCmNT INCA COUSINS. 65 At the time this description was penned, the Spaniards took away from this temple of Pachacamac sixteen hundred and eighty-seven pounds' weight of gold, and sixteen thousand ounces of silver. The great body of the treas- ure, amounting, it was said, to twenty-five thousand pounds' weight of gold and silver, had been hid somewhere between Lurin and Lima. The following incident gives some idea of the wealth of this temple, before it was despoiled. "A pilot of Pizzaro asked for the silver nails and tacks which had supported the plates of silver, bearing the sacred name of their god, on the walls of the temple, as his share of the spoils, which Pizzaro granted, as a trifling thing, but which amounted to more than thirty-two thousand ounces." The Incas had long before conquered and taken the city and people of Pachacamac, but instead of de- stroying and superseding their temple and worship, they simply subsidized it by building one of their own alongside of it. A FAMILY TOMB of our old cousins in the city of Pachacamac was opened, and thus de- scribed by Mr. Squier: "This tomb, walled with adobes" sun-dried bricks "was four feet square, by three feet deep, and contained G6 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. five bodies : one of a man of middle age ; an- other of a full-grown woman ; a third of a girl of about fourteen years ; the fourth of a boy about seven ; and the fifth an infant." The dear little cousin " was placed between the fa- ther and the mother ; the boy was by the side of the man ; and the girl was by the side of the woman. All were enveloped in a braided network, or sack of rushes, or coarse grass, bound closely around the bodies by cords of the same material. "Under the outer wrapper of braided reeds around the man, was another of stout, plain cotton cloth, fastened with a variegated cord of llama wool. Next came the envelope of cotton cloth of finer texture, which, when re- moved, disclosed the body shrunken and dried hard, of the color of mahogany, but well pre- served. The hair was long and slightly red- dish, perhaps from the effect of the nitre in the soil. Passing around the neck, and care- fully folded on the knees, on which the head rested, was a net of the twisted fiber of the ajave, a plant not found on the coast. The threads were as fine as the finest used by our fishermen, and the meshes were neatly knotted, precisely after the fashion of to-day. CUE ANCIENT INCA COUSINS. 67 "Wrapped up in a cloth beneath his feet were some fishing-lines of various sizes, and some copper hooks, barbed like ours, and some copper sinkers," so it is evident that our old cousin was, like Simon Peter, a fisherman. " Under each armpit was a roll of white al- paca wool, and behind the calf of each leg a few thick short ears of variegated maize, or Indian corn. A small thin piece of copper had been placed in the mouth, corresponding perhaps with the oblos which the ancient Greeks put into the mouths of their dead as a fee for Charon ; and suspended by a thread around the neck was a pair of bronze tweez- ers, probably for plucking out the beard. " The wife, beneath the same coarse outer- wrapping of braided reeds, was enveloped in a blanket of alpaca wool, finely spun, woven in a style known as l three-ply,' in two colors - a soft chestnut-brown and pure white. Be- low this was a sheet of fine cotton cloth, with sixty-two threads of warp and woof to the inch. " It had a diamond-shaped pattern, formed by very elaborate lines of ornament, inside of which, or in the spaces themselves, were rep- resentations of monkeys, which seemed to be 68 OUK SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. following each other as up and clown stairs. Beneath this was a rather coarsely woven, but yet soft and flexible cotton cloth, twenty yards or more in length, wrapped in many folds around the body of the woman, which was in a similar condition, as regards preser- vation, to that of her husband. "Her long hair was less changed by the salts of the soil than that of her husband, and was black, and in most places lustrous. In one hand she held a comb, made by setting what I took to be the bony parts the rays of fishes' fins in a slip of the hard woody part of the dwarf palm-tree, into which they were not only tightly cemented, but firmly bound. " In her other hand were the remains of a fan with a cane handle, from the upper points of which radiated the faded feathers of par- rots and humming-birds. Around her neck was a triple necklace of shells, dim in color and exfoliating layer after layer when exposed to light and air. Resting between her body and bent-up knees were several small domestic implements, among them an ancient spindle for spinning cotton, half covered with spun thread, which connected with a mass of the OUR ANCIENT INCA COUSINS. 69 raw cotton. This simple spinning apparatus consisted of a section of the stalk of the qui- noa, half as large as the little finger, and eight inches long, its lower end fitted through a whirl-bob of stone to give it momentum when set in motion by a twirl of the fore- finger and thumb, grasping a point of hard wood stuck in the upper end of the spindle. The contrivance is precisely the same as that in universal use by the Indian women of the present day. One of the most inter- esting: articles found with the woman was O a kind of wallet, composed of two pieces of thick cotton cloth of different colors, ten inches long by five broad, the lower end of each terminating in a fringe, and the upper end of each corner in a long braid, the braids of both being again braided together. These cloths placed together were carefully folded up and tied by the braids. The pocket contained some ' Lima beans,' a few pods of cotton gathered before maturity, the husks being still on, some fragments of an ornament of thin silver, and two little thin disks of the same material, three-tenths of an inch in di- ameter, and pierced with a small hole near its edge, too minute for ornament apparently, and 70 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. possibly used as a coin; also tiny beads of chalcedony, scarcely an eighth of an inch in diameter. " The body of the girl was in a peculiar posi- tion, having been seated on a kind of work- box of braided reeds, with a cover hinged on one side, and shutting down and fastening on the other. It was about eighteen inches long, fourteen wide, ajjd eight deep, and contained a greater variety of articles than I ever found together in any grave of the aborigines. There were grouped together things childish, and things showing approach to maturity. There were rude specimens of knitting, with places showing where stitches had been dropped; mites of spindles and implements for weaving, and braids of thread of irregular thickness, kept as if for sake of contrast with others larger and nicely wound with a finer and more even thread. There were skeins and spools of thread; the spools being composed of two splints placed across each other at right angles, and the thread wound in and out between them. There were strips of cloth, some wide, some narrow, and some of two and even three colors. There were pouches plain and variegated, of different sizes, and OUK AXCIEXT IXCA COUSIXS. 71 all woven or knit without a seam. There were needles of bone and of bronze ; a comb and a little bronze knife, and some other ar- ticles ; a fan, smaller than that of the mother, Was also stored away in the box. There were several sections of the hollow bones of some bird, carefully stopped by a wad of cotton, and containing pigments of various colors. With these I found a curious contrivance made of the finest cotton, evidently used as a ' dob ' for applying the colors to the face. " By the side of these novel cosmetic boxes was a contrivance for rubbing or grinding the pigments to the requisite fineness for use. It was a small oblong stone, with a cup-shaped hollow on the upper side, in which fits a little round stone ball answering the purpose of a pestle. There was also a substitute for a mirror, composed of a piece of iron pyrites, resembling the half of an egg, with the plain side highly polished. Among all these many curious things was a little crushed ornament of gold, evidently intended to represent a butterfly, but so thin and delicate that it came to pieces and lost its form when we at- tempted to handle it. " There was also a netting instrument of hard 72 OUK SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. wood, not unlike those now in use in making nets. " The envelopes of the girl were similar to those that enshrouded her mother. Her hair was braided and plaited around the forehead, encircling which, also, was a cincture of white cloth, ornamented with little silver spangles ; a thin narrow bracelet of the same metal still hunsr on the shrunken arm, and between her ~ ' feet was the dried body of a parrot, doubtless her pet in life, brought perhaps from the dis- tant Amazonian valleys. "There was nothing of special interest sur- rounding the body of the boy; but bound tightly around his forehead was his sling, finely braided with cotton threads." The dear little fellow, that was all his stock in trade. "The body of the infant, a girl, had been imbedded in the fleece of the alpaca, then wrapped in fine cotton cloth, and placed in a strongly braided sack of rushes, with handles or loops at each end as if for carrying it. The only article found with this body was a sea-shell containing pebbles, the orifice closed with a hard pitch-like substance." That was our baby cousin's rattle. OUB A1S T CIEXT INCA COUSINS. 73 "Besides the bodies there were a number of utensils and other articles in the vault; among them half a dozen earthen jars, pans and pots of various sizes and ordinary form. One or two were still incrusted with the soot of the fires over which they had been used. Every one contained something. One was filled with peanuts, another with maize, etc.; and there were some others representing the re- ligious notions of the occupants of the tomb." ENCA AECHTTECTUEE. Mr. Squier, speaking of the Inca architecture of Cuzco, the capital of the Inca empire, says : "Some of these walls are massive and im- posing, composed of hard and heavy stones. Those sustaining the terrace of the Palace of the Inca Rocco, in the street of Triunfo, are of a compact, fine-grained sienite, some of them wei^hingf several tons each, and fitted together O O ' O with wonderful precision. " The remains of the palaces and temples of Cuzco enable us, with the aid of the early de- scriptions, to make out with tolerable accuracy their original form and character. "As a rule, they were built around a court, 4 74 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. presenting exteriorly an unbroken wall, having but a single entrance, and, except in rare in- stances, no exterior windows. The entrance in all cases was broad and lofty, permitting a horseman to ride in without difficulty. The lintel was always a heavy slab of stone, some- times carved, as well as the jambs, with figures, those of serpents predominating. These entrances were closed by heavy doors. "The walls of these structures, as well as those supporting the terraces, inclined slightly inward, and in some instances are narrowed somewhat near the top. Those of Cuzco are all of cut stone of brown trachyte, the grain of which being rough, causes greater adhesion be- tween the blocks than would be effected by the use of other kinds of stone. "The stones of some structures range in length from one to eight feet, and in thickness from six inches to two feet. They are laid in regular courses, the larger stones generally at the bottom, each course diminishing in thick- ness toward the top of the Avail, thus giving a very pleasant effect of graduation. The joints are all of a precision unknown in our architec- ture, and not rivaled in the remains of ancient art that had fallen under my notice in Europe. OUR ANCIENT INCA COUSINS. 75 The statement of old writers, that the accu- racy with which the stones of some structures were fitted together was such that it was im- possible to introduce the thinest knife-blade or finest needle between them, may be taken as strictly true. The world has nothing to show in the way of stone-cutting to surpass the skill and accuracy displayed in the Inca struc- tures of Cuzco. " In the buildings I am describing there is absolutely no cement of any kind, nor the re- motest evidence of any having been used. The Inca architects depended, with rare ex- ceptions, on the accuracy of their stone fitting without cement for the stability of their works works which, unless disturbed by system- atic violence, will endure until the Capitol at Washington has sunk into decay, and Macau- lay's New-Zealander contemplates the ruins of St. Paul's from the crumbling arches of Lon- don Bridge. "Nearly air* the rooms of an Inca house opened from the court. As a rule these had no connection, and seem to have been dedicated each to a special purpose. In some cases, nevertheless, there were inner chambers, to be reached only after passing through a number 76 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSIXS. of outer ones. These were, perhaps, recesses sacred to domestic or religious rites, or places of refuge for the timid or weak. Many of the apartments were large. Garcilasso de la Vega describes some of them, of which the remains exist to indicate his accuracy, as capable of re- ceiving sixty horsemen with room enough to exercise with their lances. Three sides of the great central square were occupied by as many grand public edifices, in which religious and other ceremonies were observed in bad weather, each of which had the capacity to receive several thousand people. Some of them in- deed are two hundred paces long, and from fifty to sixty broad, and capable of holding 3,000 people each. "Prescott and others have fallen into the error of describing all the buildings of the O O ancient Peruvians as of only a single story, low, and without windows. Now, the walls which remain, show that in Cuzco they were from thirty-five to forty feet high, besides the spring of the roof. They were perhaps all of a single story, but elsewhere we know there were edifices, private dwellings as well as temples, of two and three stories, with windows adequate for all purposes of illuminating their OUR ANCIENT INCA COUSINS. 77 interiors ; regard being had to the temperature of the country, which with a people unac- quainted with glass, would limit the number of apertures to absolute requirements." "The second Temple of the Sun in Cuzco is 800 feet long, and 200 feet broad." Mr. Squier measured blocks of polished porphyry, in the w^alls of an Inca fortress, eighteen feet long, five feet broad, and four feet thick ; and others, twenty-one feet long and fifteen feet broad, and five feet thick, and so perfectly fitted together that it was almost impossible to find the joints. Old Cousin Chinm, Cousin Inca, and all their large families, like the Hindus, had gods innumerable. There were three princi- pal classes: village gods, household gods, and personal gods. Padre Arriaga gives the fol- lowing description of the fervid character of their worship : "The various families came carrying the dried bodies of their ancestors, together with those taken from the churches, as if the living and the dead were coming to judgment. Also the higher and lower priests, dressed in their robes and plumes, with the offerings for the gods in pots, jars, and vases, with copper and 78 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. silver trumpets, and large sea-shells, on which they blow to convene the people, who came with tambourines, well made, hardly a woman being without one, bringing also a great num- ber of cunas, a kind of cradle with carved sides, and figure-head of some animal which was an object of worship." The manner of converting our cousins from the error of their ways is described by the same Padre in an account of his first visit to the northern provinces in 1618. He states that he " confessed 6,794 persons ; detected 679 ministers of idolatry, and made them do penance." He enumerates the number and variety of the gods he destroyed, making alto- gether 5,676 objects of idolatrous worship. Besides all this he adds that he "chastised seventy-three witches." What a great revivalist was Padre Arriaga ! According to the historic narrative, the Span- iards long before this pious raid upon our cousins, had killed 40,000 of them in that re- gion. I suppose the natives had a good deal of the old Adam in them, and were rather hard to convert. "And were they indeed descendants of Adam?" OUR ANCIENT INCA COUSINS. 79 It is written, "Adam begot a son in his own likeness," and so the family likeness passed down through the generations. The ancient Incas had, and their progeny of to-day have all the properties, proportions, and features of the Adamic family. "How did they get to South America?" Now, instead of troubling ourselves with du- bious second-hand speculations on this subject, let us accept God's foundation facts as our data in the premises, and draw our conclusions accordingly. Read the record of man's creation and chartered rights to this planet, embracing all its continents, and seas, and resources " And God said, Let us make man in our image, after our likeness : and let them have dominion over the fish of the sea, and over the fowl of the air, and over the cattle, and over all the earth, and over every creeping thing that creepeth upon the earth. So God created man in His own image, in the image of God created He him ; male and female created He them. And God blessed them, and God said unto them, Be fruitful, and multiply, and replenish the earth, and subdue it : and have dominion over the fish of the sea, and over the fowl of the air, and over every living thing that moveth upon 80 OTJE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. the earth. And God said, Behold I have given you every herb bearing seed, which is upon the face of all the earth, and every tree, in the which is the fruit of a tree yielding seed : to you it shall be for meat. And to every beast of the earth, and to every fowl of the air, and to every thing that creepeth upon the earth, wherein there is life, I have given every green herb for meat, and it was so. And God saw every thing that he had made, and behold it was very good." GEN. i. 26-31. Every fruitful mountain and hill is a monu- mental attestation of the Divine authority of this record. Every body of water, whether flowing in rivers or swayed in ocean's depths in perpetual ebb and flood by a lunar touch of God, and the millions of creatures that daily get their food from God, attest the genuineness of the charter it contains. Every living thing in air, earth, or sea owes its existence to the pri- mal provisions and continued force of these char- tered rights of Adam and his posterity. Imag- ine with Darwin, if you choose, that in the dusky ages of antiquity some enterprising old monkey doffed his tail and straightened out his hind o legs, and a female of the same tribe, with such an illustrious example before her eyes, went OUR AXCIEXT INCA COUSINS. 81 through the same remarkable transformation, O ' and the pair of them became the progenitors of a race of intellectual bipeds. But if this trans- formation could have taken place, the new- comers could not obtain from the king of the country even a squatter's right to a foot of land, nor a single source of subsistence, without a change of this grand old charter. It must be admitted that Adam's revolt from God has occasioned a great change in the Di- vine administration of government over this world ; but the fact of man's continued exist- ence in it, and the continuance of all the re- sources enumerated so specifically in our bill of chartered rights, go to demonstrate beyond a doubt : 1st, that God has not abdicated his government over this colonial outpost of His great empire ; 2d, that He has not ignored this ancient charter of human rights ; 3d, that, per- verted as we are, He entertains a purpose of love and mercy concerning us at least com- mensurate with His great outlay of natural re- sources on our behalf. True, the King of this world in His moral administration, exercises His right, directly or by any agency available, both in regard to individuals and nations, to abase or to exalt whom He will ; yet this grand 4* 82 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAX COUSINS. charter of human rights, and the vital resources it includes, remain unchanged. But " how did the Incas get across the great Pacific Ocean into South America " ? Did we not read in the charter that man " was made in the image and after the likeness of God"? Would not such godlike powers of intellect be adequate to the full measure of his responsibility ? Did not God give the planet, with its earth and seas, to him, and com- mand him to replenish it and subdue it ? Would God give and order without also fur- nishing every resource requisite to its execu- tion ? This is the fact in the case. Before the na- tions descending from Noah sank down so deeply into the slime-pits of lust and idolatry as to preclude the exercise of their genius and capacity for bold adventure, they crossed the waters and took possession of every part of the habitable earth, "to replenish and sub- due" it, according to the commandment of their Creator. Christopher Columbus, as a dis- coverer, was as one born out of due time. Every countiy in the world had been discov- ered and colonized long before he was born ; so long that their charts and log-books had all OUR ANCIENT INCA COUSINS. 83 been lost lost, indeed, before history began ; but their colonies, still remaining to this day, demonstrate the maritime skill and bold ad- venture of the men who planted them. With the model of Noah's great ship, more commodi- ous than the "Great Eastern," why should they not build ships, and navigate the seas in those days? Though the decree, as a part of the penalty entailed by sin, was pronounced upon man, " Dust thou art, and unto dust shalt thou re- turn," yet his body, unmarred by the effects of abuse and hereditary ills, possessed such stam- ina and vitality, as to resist the wear and waste of nearly a thousand years. So, many na- tions, under the teaching of God's prophets, from the days of Noah till the days Job, re- tained a vast amount of moral stamina, and acquired such knowledge of the principles of government, science, social institutions, and civilization generally, as to survive the storms of centuries, after they had lost the knowledge of God. The history of their apostasy is graphically stated by St. Paul " When they knew God, they glorified Him not as God, neither were thankful ; but became vain in their imaginations, and their foolish heart 84 OUR SOUTH AMEKICAN COUSINS. was darkened/ Professing themselves to be wise, they became fools, and changed the glory of the uncorruptible God into an image made like to corruptible man, and to birds, and four-footed beasts, and creeping things. Wherefore, God also gave them up to unclean- ness through the lusts of their own hearts, to dishonor their own bodies, and to a reprobate mind." Such elements of corruption and of disintegration must end in utter debasement and ruin ; but the salt, or conserving power of the few men who fear God and work right- eousness in every nation, and of a few sound principles of truth, give an astonishing vital cohesive force for the preservation of the civil- ized nations of antiquity. The facts of history, such as the perfection of the languages spoken by heathen nations, the vestiges of ancient science and architecture found among them, go to prove that the fur- ther we trace their history back along their an- cestral lines toward Noah, who had the knowl- edge of the true God, the greater was their power of genius and achievement ; thence, the further down the stream of heathenism they drift, the greater their demoralization and im- becility. OUR ANCIENT INCA COUSINS. 85 At the great Centennial in Philadelphia, where the best artistic skill of civilized hea- then nations was exhibited, it was plainly mani- fest that in the manufacture of pottery, and various articles in bronze, silver, gold, and ivory, things more ornamental than useful, and in the manufacture of silks, etc., they displayed great imitative skill; but as for remaining genius to invent anything new, or of moral power to get out of their old grooves, there was no evidence of either ; hence, but for the eman- cipating power of the Gospel, enfranchising na- tions once in the chains of barbarous heathen- ism, there would not to-day be a steam-engine in the world, nor a labor-saving machine of any sort. Ancient science, art, and civilization flour- ished most in the great centers of population. The adventurers who struck out new lines of discovery, and opened up new countries for settlement, would have but a very limited knowledge of the higher education of their own advanced men, and their children born in remote regions would know still less, but they could readily retain and transmit some knowledge of mechanical arts. Thus the pioneers of Asiatic emigration to North America stood much in 86 CUE SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. the same relation to their cultivated Oriental contemporaries as our own Rocky Mountain trappers bear to the cultivated classes of the great literary centers of our population. The Asiatics who settled Mexico and South Amer- ica, evidently came from civilized circles near to the centers and capitals of their nations. They brought with them a knowledge of civil government, architecture, and various useful arts, and yet they were not near enough to the centers of education to secure and transplant into the New World the knowledge of letters o and of the sciences then known in the civiliza- tions they had left behind. The architecture of the Incas is simply an importation of Asiatic architecture, the mag- nificent ruins of which are seen in all Asiatic countries to-day. The hardy adventurers who penetrated the forests and traversed the swamps of Europe, and laid the foundations of its empires, had no such knowledge of mechanical arts and of civil- ization as the Incas. They were debased idola- ters and barbarians ; but God's messengers, first from Palestine and Asia Minor, came to them with Gospel tidings, and the Inspired Scrip- tures, revealing to them the Lord Jesus, the OTJR ANCIENT ESTCA COUSINS. 87 Divine Emancipator of individual men, and of nations; and though their reception of Him was not so cordial and unanimous as it should have been, yet they struck for liberty, and, to a large extent, gained it. Their development of religious and intellec- tual freedom was imperiled, and almost de- feated, by a great apostasy and compromise with heathenism ; and many of the Christian nations of Europe are still involved in heathen- ish complications. It was a nation possessing this mixed or partial Christianity that conquered the Incas. They had been but partially recovered from a depth of barbarous idolatry that the Incas had never reached. The Incas, to be sure, spiritu- ally, were equally dark, but still retained much of their ancestral civilization, the like of which the European heathens had never possessed; but the light of God had shone upon the Span- iard, and hence, compared with his former self, or with any purely heathen people, he had be- come a man of might, with power to break down, but not with power to build up ; power to destroy, but not to heal. The Anglo-Saxons, more than any other people of the modem era, have acknowledged 88 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. and received the Lord Jesus, the only Saviour of men. They willingly promote a free circu- lation of His Bible at home and abroad, in all lands. In proportion as they have identified themselves with Him, and His purpose and plan of bringing back all the apostate nations, kindreds, and tongues to God, He has identi- fied Himself with them. He has given into their hands more than half of the territory of the globe, together with the command of all the seas. What an ancient king said to his son is true in all ages of individuals and of nations " My son, know thou the God of thy fathers, and serve Him with a perfect heart, and with a willing mind. If thou seek Him, He will be found of thee, but if thou forsake Him, He will cast thee off forever." IV. CALLAO LIMA. CALLAO is the port, with a population of about 30,000; Lima, the capital, contains a population of 1 20,000. The two cities are seven miles apart, connected by two railroads. After a delightful voyage of eighteen days from New York, we arrived in Callao, November 3, 1877. AVe land on a splendid concrete mole, 984 by 802 feet, the construction of which is reputed to have cost the French Government over $8,000,000. "What, the French?" Yes; in their attempts to get a footing in America some years ago, they put a line of steamers on this coast, and built these substan- tial piers, and own them now, though their steamers "hauled off " long ago. The work was done by English mechanics, and is utilized prin- cipally by English shipping. Near by, on the site of old Callao, a fine city, destroyed by a tidal wave over a hundred years ago, is " the 89 90 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. factory " of the P. S. N. Co., with all the great shops and machinery required by such a com- pany, employing four hundred men, about one hundred of whom are English and Scotch me- chanics. Between the company's works and the city of Callao is the immense fortress, which cost the Spanish Government thirty millions of dol- lars. It is now used in part as a barracks, but more as a custom-house and bonded warehouse. We put up at the Commercial Hotel, but were soon taken in charge by two kind gentle- men, and conducted to comfortable rooms pro- vided for us in Washington Street. Many of the streets are wide, laid smooth and solid with " Oroya cement," and, differing from most tropical towns I have seen, they are as clean as they can be swept with a broom. Nothing is allowed to be thrown on the streets, not so much as an envelope. No system of sewerage, but scavenger carts daily remove all slops and nuisance from the dwellings of our Callao cousins. How strange the houses ap- pear ! Whole blocks of one and of two story buildings, apparently unfinished; no gables, but all flat on the top, covered with earth; some simply with bamboo splits. The build- CALLAO LIMA. 91 ings have a substantial appearance, painted in varied bright colors, and some of them beau- tiful to behold ; but a large proportion of them, both here and in Lima, are constructed of "wattle and daub," or, except timber to sup- port the structure, the walls are made of a small tough species of bamboo, plastered with a mortar made of clay, straw, and cow-dung. One India rain of forty-four hours, such as I have often seen, would leave nothing of these cities but canebrakes, mud-holes, and mounds ; but this is the country in which the rains de- scend not, and the floods never come. Nearly all the houses of this city, and I may say of all South American cities, except the English structures of Valparaiso, are built on the Ori- ental plan. We enter a court by a door, or more frequently by a gateway, through which you may drive a two-horse carriage. The court is the center of the dwelling-place ; from each side of the entrance-way, and on all sides of the inner square, is a continuous veranda facing the court. The doors of nearly all the apartments open directly on to the veranda. Whether the house has one or two stories the plan is the same, above and below, with stairways leading to the upper veranda. The 92 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. court, in some cases, has a fountain and tank, generally a flower garden, with orange trees and other varieties of fruit. At night the court gate is shut, and the whole premises are in the main secure. The outside walls are solid, except the break of small windows, to admit light and air ; they are all fortified by iron bars, like the windows of a jail, so that here " every man's house is his castle," in which he must be ready to stand for his life, or the lives of his family, against the attack of thieves who may attempt to " break through and steal," or revolutionists, who may come to contest his rights to property or life. Lima is said to cover fourteen millions of square yards of ground. About one-half of this area is covered by private dwellings, the other half by public buildings, churches, pub- lic squares, with botanical and zoological gar- dens that would do credit to any country, and the grand plaza which is five hundred feet square. In the center is a floral garden, and a grand bronze fountain. The Cathedral stands on the east side, the most imposing structure in Peru. Report says there are six thousand priests in Lima, but I have not counted them. There CALLAO LIMA. 93 is but one Protestant minister, a clergyman of the Church of England, who has a small following of English residents, and conducts services in a private house. From the great number of churches we see in these cities we might conclude that our cousins are decidedly religious. The women, however, are the prin- cipal worshipers in church. There are no seats here in churches to seat a congrega- tion. Each woman " going to meeting " carries with her a rug, which she spreads on the floor of solid bricks or cement, and kneels on it. Go into any of these churches at the hour for " mass," and you will see the body of the church more than half full of women, all kneeling on their mats, erect as statues, with- out any support for their bodies, except their knees, each one holding a little prayer-book in her left hand, while, at every jingle of the little bell at the altar, she crosses her fore- head, breast, and face, and kisses her hand for its cunning in the ceremony. There is not a bonnet among them. Each one wears a black shawl of silk or French merino. One corner is drawn closely round the neck, making a close fit to the shoulders, with a hood for the head, leaving the face exposed, and the whole ex- 94 OUK SOUTH AMERICAN" COUSINS. tending down to the knees. They look to " be all in mourning," and yet you are struck with the uniformity and neatness of their appearance. Dr. Adam Clarke speaks of a bit of hard experience he suffered once at a prayer-meet- ing, where he kneeled down with no support but his two knees, and he said, "The unmer- ciful man prayed forty minutes." The Doc- tor believed in penitence, but not in penance. But these female cousins of ours remain from one to two solid hours, erect on their knees, dis- playing the patience of Job. The few men who attend, usually stand about the door, and some alonor the side walls. A few are sometimes O found on their knees for a few minutes, but they can't stand it, and get up a pity that their consciences are not as tender as their knees. On Christmas-eve we attend an anniversary- midnight mass to commemorate the birth of the illustrious Babe of Bethlehem in a stable. The night is far spent, the great audience- room is packed almost to suffocation; the priests are at the altar, mid the blaze of con- secrated candles, surrounded by pictures and statues of dead saints, and of the Virgin Mother and her Son. Now an organ in the front gallery peals out a few notes and rolls CALLAO LIMA. 95 off a tune, accompanied by a solo in a mas- culine voice of some feminine cousin of ours. Now silence reigns, except the priestly mutter- ings at the altar. Suddenly there is a tre- mendous breaking loose in the gallery, an awful confusion of sounds cymbals, tin-pans, horns, lowing, cackling a barnyard scene imitated, a surprise at midnight among the men and fowls of a stable, it beggars description. It suddenly ceases, and after a season of silence the organ and a solo singer take their turn ; then a repetition of the awful confusion of sounds. These go on alternately for more than an hour. Some of the performers in the stable scenes behave irreverently, and the priest at the altar rebukes them sharply, and troops of them suddenly rush down the gallery Stan's like so many horses, and leave the premises. I hardly knew whether that was incidental, or the closing scene of the comedy. All the while the women remain erect on their knees looking at a book in their left, and crossing themselves with their rio-ht hands o o at every signal from the bell-boy at the altar. In front of us stands an old man holding a little girl by the hand. He looks around about him, and up to the gallery, and seems 96 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. to take note of everything that is going on, but, alternately with his general observations, he utters his " Ave Marias " in weeping tones ; I cannot be quite certain whether there was a flow of tears or not, but he meant well. He is evidently calling to remembrance his evil deeds and misspent hours which have so contributed to swell the records of the year just passing out. Poor old coz. The Foreigners' Church of Callao is a sub- stantial building, containing an audience-room, 40 by 60 feet, a vestry, and two school-rooms. About seventeen years ago, William Wheel- wright, the founder of the P. S. N. Co., pass- ing through Callao on his way to New York, heard Rev. J. A. Swaney, an agent of the American Seamen's Friend Society, preach to his edification, in an inferior "hired house," and proposed that if Rev. Swaney would fur- nish him a plan and specifications of a church edifice suitable for Callao, he would, on his own account, have it framed in New York, and send it out. Mr. Swaney accordingly got his friend Mr. DeCoursey to furnish the design and specifications, and in due time the frame was duly received. The friends in Callao, however, having bought a lot, built a larger CALLAO LIMA. 97 and more substantial edifice than the one con- templated, and worked all the materials of Mr. Wheelwright's gift into it. The property is deeded to the British, and American Consuls, and the manager of the P. S. N. Co., in trust for the foreign population of Callao. The man- agement is intrusted to six gentlemen, elected annually by a majority of the subscribers and pew-holders. Unfortunately for the cause in Callao, before the house was completed, Mr. Swaney returned to the United States. He is an able minister of the Gospel, a prudent, good man, and had he held on in Callao, as Rev. Dr. Trumbull has done in Valparaiso, he might have done the great preparatory work for Peru, that the other man of God has done for Chile. For about fifteen years the Callao church has been under the pastoral care of different clergy- men of the Church of England ; but on our arrival, it was vacant, and had been closed for six weeks. For many years a sharp contention has been kept up between the " church party " and the "non-conformists." At the annuM election last June, a non-conformist committee was elected, and they opened negotiations with Dr. Swaney to become their pastor, but owing to various unforeseen causes of delay, the question 5 98 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. has been in suspense ever since. Meantime, Dr. Swaney by letter informed the committee, one mail in advance, of my contemplated visit, so they received us gladly, and I served them during a period of two months. In that time I hunted up eighty-five English-speaking Pro- testant families, and made a pastoral list, and tried to pour oil on the troubled waters. Under very great discouragements we secured an increase in numbers, and interest in the congregations, and some good was done. The committee elected Bro. T , who is an able minister of the Gospel, to be their pastor pro tern. The previous negotiations with Dr. Swaney still pending, we would not interfere with them, except to see that the pulpit should not be left without a minister. The Pope's Nuncio arrived a few days after I commencd work in Callao, and promulgated an order, published in the Spanish papers, to close the Callao Protestant Church. We paid no attention to the order, nor did the local au- thorities, so the church was not closed, but the Nuncio soon found that his own position was not quite secure, for though he was received by the Peruvian Government, the " diplo- matic corps" of other nations at the capital CALLAO LIMA. 99 refused to recognize him. The point they made was, that since the Pope had lost his temporal power, he was not a sovereign, nor head of any nation, and therefore had no right of representation in the councils of any civil government. Eight thousand persons have been buried in the foreigners' cemetery during the last twelve years Protestants, principally English and German. What a body of buried agency that should have been utilized for God in " spreading scriptural holiness " through these lands ! Five bulls are killed in Callao every Sunday, specially in the interest of some church, or public charity. Each bull-bait is placarded on large wall-papers, with highly-colored pictures of bulls and lions engaged in mortal combat. Shooting, boat-racing, cock-fighting, and mis- cellaneous pleasure-taking, make up, for the most part, the exercises of the Lord's day in this country. Unfortunately the foreigners, who should truly represent the great Chris- tian nations to which they belong, are too apt to slide down into these barbarous cus- toms ; but they have been as sheep without a shepherd. 100 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. I will tell you before we leave Callao how Satan put it into the heart of one of his ser- vants to shoot me, and put a stop to the fur- ther extension of my self-supporting missions. Bro. T is a practical and scientific geolo- gist, and for our needful exercise we often strolled on the south beach, gathering rare geo- logical specimens of volcanic rocks. On the morning of December 17, 1877, as we sat by the sea-shore, we saw about half a mile east of us a trooper dash up to the bluff, followed by armed foot-soldiers. They came by, two and two, about every hundred yards, evidently intending to cover the whole line of coast back to the city. As we sat watching their movements, not suspecting personal peril, two soldiers with their breech-loading rifles came to the bluff opposite, and distant from us about forty yards. They halted and stood looking at us. In a few moments, two more came to view west of us, and distant about seventy-five yards. As soon as they caught sight of us, one of them, an intoxicated Indian, cocked his rifle, and in a half -bent position, with his gun elevated ready for an aim, he ran down the ridge of rubble stones toward us, till he CALLAO LIMA. 101 reached more level standing-ground, and then stopped and took aim at us. We sprang to our feet, and held up our hands to show him that we had nothing, and were unarmed. He then ran about ten steps toward us, and took aim from his knee. Not satisfied with that chance for a sure shot, he ran about ten steps nearer, and aimed at us again, and then about ten steps still nearer, bringing the savage within thirty steps of us. There, with a rest from his knee, and as deliberate an aim as a soldier maddened with rum can take, he leveled his rifle at us. His fellow, and the two soldiers opposite, stood looking to see him shoot one or both of us. I saw from their at- titude that if we should attempt either to run, or to resist, the whole quaternion of them would fire at us. This was all the work of a minute. I could not get my nerves shaken with fear in so short a time, but I thought fast. I did not believe that God would deliver either of us to the " bloody and deceitful men," but I had to do something, so I advanced rapidly on the Indian aiming at us. I curved a little to the left to avoid his direct range, and crossed with quick steps to the right, passing the muzzle of his gun but a few feet distant, 102 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. to give me vantage-ground for seizing liim. When nearly within arm's length he sprang to his feet, and I grasped the barrel of his rifle. My impulse was to wrest it from his hands and throw it into the sea, and lay him level with the ground, and I knew I had the power to do it ; but I felt certain in such a defense of myself the other savages would fire on me ; so, as quietly as possible, I simply controlled his gun, so that he could not shoot either of us. Meantime I said, " Amigos, amigos," Friends, friends. He then trailed his gun in his left hand, and shook hands with me, but imme- diately drew up his gun to get a pull at Bro. T , who had followed close after me ; but I again seized the barrel of his rifle, and would not allow him to get an aim, saying to him, " Este mi hermano ; este mi hermano," That is my brother ; that is my brother. He then -sprang back and tried to get another aim at me, but I closed upon him, and held his gun firmly, saying, " Americanos amigos, Ameri- canos amigos," American friends, American friends. He seemed intent on killing, at least, one of us, especially as the others were looking to see him do it ; but now he was cornered, and shook CALLAO LIMA. 103 hands with us both. Then he let down the hammer of his rifle, and began to jabber to us in a lingo that we understood not, when one of the soldiers on the bluff, who had watched the whole transaction, called him, and they all marched off together. We sat down and waited till the coast was all clear, and returned to our quarters. We learned afterward that they were in pursuit of thieves. To excite their valor, as in a revolutionary expedition, they must needs get furiously drunk ; and not finding any thieves, the next thing was to kill an honest man or two. If they could have got an excuse, by our resistance or attempt at flight, for firing on us, they would have had a great story to tell of how they routed and dis- patched the thieves. No thanks to them that life and reputation had not both been sacri- ficed together. No coroners in Peru. It is enough to know there that a man is dead. If I had my way with them, I would have them all converted to God. They need it. But we must not leave Callao yet, as though we were frightened by an unseemly use of breech-loading rifles. I had the pleasure of seeing Rev. Padr6 Vaughn here. He belongs to a high-class 104 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. English family of wealth, but is a humble, hard- working man of God, He has devoted many- years to traveling and useful labors among all the various nations of South America. Some years since he collected funds there, for the purpose of printing Bibles and Testaments in the Spanish language, for circulation among the peoples of South America. The Testaments have been issued by Samuel Bagster &, Co., and, under the sanction of the Pope, and many bishops of the Roman Catholic church, are for sale to the natives in nearly all the cities of this continent. Five thousand copies of them have been brought to Callao since my arrival. The great miraculous events recorded are illus- trated by wood-cuts. They are sold at a very cheap rate, and are being circulated freely. We have a Brother and Sister Peterson in Cal- lao, humble servants of God, who are doing much to spread the Word of God, and to bear witness for Jesus. Since my return to New York, I have re- ceived a letter from Bro. T , whom I left there to hold the fort, in which he says : " When will Christianity in its purity dawn on these lands ? A person cannot help liking the natives of this countiy, notwithstanding their faults and CALLAO LIMA. 105 vices. In the name of humanity, what advan- tages have they had ? But they will be reached by the Gospel, and embrace a true faith. Padre Vaughn has done a good work. They read his Testaments with deep interest. The de- mand is greater than the supply. I have given all mine away. The natives really are more accessible than the foreigners. Mrs. Peterson is a missionary among the natives. She visits the nunneries and hospitals, and tells them all of the saving power of Jesus. She went to hear the bishop last Sunday, and had a long talk with him on experimental religion. He told her that he would get Padre Vaughn to supply her with all the Testaments she could distribute. A brighter day is dawning for the Eoman Catholics of South America." The bishop referred to is a Roman Catholic ; Padre Vaughn, a priest of that church ; Mrs. P , a Scandinavian Lutheran, and the reporter a Methodist minister. 5* V. MOLLEINDO. LEAVING Callao, January 3d, 1878, 1 embark- ed for Mollendo in the steamship Aconcagua. This floating palace, one of the P. S. N. Co.'s ships, which runs from Callao to Liverpool, is 431 feet long, 42 feet wide, with a registry of 4,106 tons. Her time from Callao to Valpa- raiso, 1,500 miles, is about ten days, stopping at many ports for freight, principally bar silver and copper. From Valparaiso to Liverpool, including stoppages, thirty-nine days. We have among our passengers the wife and four little daughters of President Pardo, of Peru, going to join him in Chile. They are sociable and sensible. I made the acquaintance on this trip of a Peruvian cousin of ours, a fine specimen of a gentleman, a merchant from Arequipa, who kindly invited me to go home with him. He had been recently married to a Bolivian lady, and was on his way to meet her 106 MOLLEXDO. 107 for the first time as his wife. It is lawful in this country to get married by proxy ; so this gentleman, not having time to travel so far to participate in the ceremony, gave a gentleman friend authority to get married for him, and send the lady over the Andes to the man really meant. On this little voyage I became acquainted with Mr. H. Parkman. He is a tall, square, no- ble-looking man, a Christian of the Presbyterian school, a conscientious, good man, and a tee- totaler. He represents twelve Philadelphia hardware manufacturing establishments of twelve different varieties of hardware. They pay him two thousand dollars per month to open a market for their wares, which are of the latest and best improvements, and all of the best quality. He has a ton of specimens with him. He has spent some weeks in Lima, and received orders for fifteen thousand dollars' worth of his wares, cash to be paid into the bank on receipt of the invoices, which are forwarded to the banker. He only stops in the large cities ; I stop at all the small ones as well. He gets high wages to put in the hardware a good thing in its way. I pay my own expenses and work for nothing, for the love I have for my 108 OUK SOUTH AMERICAN COUSIXS. dear cousins who sit in comparative darkness. I want them to become acquainted with the sinner's friend, my loving Saviour. Bro. Parkman was asked one Sabbath in Lima, by a merchant from the State of Maine, to go with him to a bull-bait. "I am astonished and horrified," replied Parkman, "to find such a man as you, with your superior Christian education, going to a bull-fight on the Lord's day." On another Sabbath a man asked him to ac- company him to a masquerade ball. The man from Maine spoke up and said, " It's no use to ask Parkman to go to a ball. I asked him last Sunday to go with me to a bull-fight, and he gave me the biggest blowing up I ever got in this country." " Go to a masquerade ball," responded Park- man, " among a lot of licentious men and wo- men, so corrupt that they are ashamed to let their faces be recognized, and hence mask them. I've got a wife and daughter in Philadelphia. Suppose I should go with you to a masquerade ball and get into collision with some ruffian and get shot, and the news go home to my wife and daughter ! not to speak of my responsibility to God." MOLLEXDO. 109 I was glad to meet such a man as that from my country ; the Lord bless him. Mollendo is 300 miles south of Callao, ir- regularly built on hills and hollows, faced by precipitous bluffs, overlooking the rocks and breakers of the roadstead. It cannot lay claim to be a harbor, except a little cove, as a land- ing-place, formed by a small island to the south. It is a new place, without pavement or sidewalks, and just like a pioneer mining town in California. The mountains in the back- ground are covered with green grass, a veiy unusual sio;ht in Peru. O This is the western terminus of the "Mol- lendo, Arequipa and Puno " railroad, measur- ing from Mollendo to Puno a distance of 324 miles. The road to Arequipa, 107 miles, was built by Henry Meiggs in less than three years' time, at a cost of thirteen millions of sil- ver dollars. The road thence to Puno, 217 miles, was built in less than four years, at a cost of twenty-seven millions of dollars. Henry Meiggs was contractor for this also, but sublet it to Mr. C , who, 'tis said, cleared eight million dollars on the job. To give an idea of this stupendous work, the blasting on the two sections of the road through to Puno 110 OTJE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. consumed three million pounds of powder; not a tunnel to dim the prospect on the whole line, and yet, by horseshoe curves and zigzag climbing, it ascends heavenward to the alti- tude of 14,660 feet. I have traveled over part of the road, and counted from one standpoint four ascending tracks on a single mountain o o face. Troy cars and New Jersey locomotives, it seems home-like. Arequipa is the second city of Peru, with a population of 40,000, at an elevation of 7,560 feet above the Pacific Ocean. It is located near the base of Mount Misti, which rises to the height of 18,538 feet above sea level. Mount Misti is an active volcano. Its fires for many years were supposed to be extinct, but now from twenty-six apertures, down at the bot- tom of her great crater, emissions of steam ob- servable are causing great apprehensions of peril among the 40,000 denizens below. The sudden flow of a river of burning lava, with a head of over 18,000 feet, would not give to the people of Arequipa half the chance of the people of Herculaneum and Pompeii to escape. Puno, with a population of 6,000, occupies an elevation of 12,547 feet above the sea, on the shore of Lake Titicaca, the fabled source MOLLENDO. Ill of the Incas.- Two steamers on this lake, which is 120 miles long, with an average width of twenty-five miles, connects part of the traffic of Bolivia with the Pacific Ocean at Mollendo. A railroad from Juliaca, thirty miles this side of Puno, to Cusco, a distance of 259 miles, was contracted by Henry Meiggs, and sublet to my friend, Mr. T , who has completed 86 miles of it, and is now proceeding with the work. Among the wonders of this place is an aque- duct of eight-inch pipe tapping the Arequi- pa river, thirteen miles below the city, and extending through to Mollendo, a distance of O O 7 ninety-four miles. It supplies all the sta- tions on that stretch of line with water, and be- sides that, deposits daily into Mollendo 300,000 gallons of delicious water fresh from Andes snow. This great work also was undertaken by Henry Meiggs for the sjim of $3,000,000, and sublet to Messrs. J's and Thos. H at $2,800,000, and they cleared $800,000. Mr. Meiggs always received a high price for his work, but in return put in the best materials, and executed the work most substantially and elegantly. 112 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. The workshops of this great line are located at Mollendo, and employ a large number of English and American mechanics. The wages paid are as follows: Engineers, $250 per mouth ; machinists, $150 on an average ; fire- men, natives, $90; conductors, $100; clerks from $100 to $150; treasurer, $250. My friend, Mr. S. B. Barnes, superintendent of motive-power both in the shops and on the road, receives $450 per month. These were the prices in paper currency when it was at par in the market. The currency has depreciated more than one-third from par value, but the wages have not been increased, nor have the fares on the road. It may be readily seen that this little town, not only for its own sake, but as a strategic base, for self-supporting educa- tional and evangelizing work in regions be- yond, is a point of great importance. I arrived in Molleudo, Saturday, January 5th. Mr. R , the British Consul, received me very kindly, and I had my head-quarters with him at the house of my friend, Mr. S , the P. S. N. Co.'s agent, who has recently buried liis wife, leaving him and "little Pat," their youngest, in very lonely bereavement. In company with Mr. B , I visited most of the MOLLENDO. 113 people Saturday night, and preached to a small but very attentive congregation on Sab- bath. On Monday, A. M., assisted by my friend M. B , I made up a subscription for pas- sage and guarantee of support for a man of God from the United States. I had brought some little blank books with me from New York. In one of these I wrote the following simple proposal: "Believing a school teacher, and a Gospel minister to be greatly needed in Mollendo, I propose to send hither a competent man, combining in himself the two-fold character of teacher and preacher. The first engagement to cover a period of at least three years. I respectfully ask the friends of this movement to contribute the funds for passage and a guarantee for support till the school shall become self-supporting. It will require $330 paper currency for passage, and at least $150 per month for sustentation. " Respectfully submitted, "War. TAYLOR. "MOLLEXDO, June 7, 1877. " We, the undersigned, concur in Mr. Taylor's proposal, and agree to pay the sums we here subscribe, for the purposes named, 114 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. and do all else we can to make the undertak- ing a success." Then followed the double list of subscribers. My first call was on an American railroad contractor. Said he : " I am a Roman Catholic, and don't wish to put down my name, but I will give $50 (soles) to bring the man out, and $100 (soles) if you require it, and $30 (soles) per mouth for his support." (A sole is a Peruvian paper dollar as good as gold a few years ago, but now worth about seventy cents.) That was my first financial strike in South America. I next went to another extensive contractor, a Scotchman, in whose family I enjoyed a gen- erous hospitality. He said: "I'll guarantee $150 per month to support a man of the right sort, myself." " I am greatly obliged by your kind offer, but I want to interest all the people of the town in him ; and the only way to do that from the start is to let them take stock in him. The principle may be illustrated by a little chimney- sweep running down street in New York in the midst of a furious snowstorm. Some one shouted, l Ho, Jack ! which way are you going ? ' ' I, going to the missionary meeting. I've got MOLLENDO. 115 a share in the concern. I gave a shilling last Sunday.' So we want every person available in this town to have a share in this concern." We then called on shopkeepers, railway men, and others, who subscribed the passage- money required, also the monthly stipend, leaving my liberal friend but $28 instead of $150 per month to pay. I wrote in the little book my thankful acceptance of their liberality, and the closing of the agreement, naming three gentlemen as a committee and school-board to collect the funds and make all necessary ar- rangements for carrying our plans into effect. VI. AEICA AND TACNA. ON the 8th of January we sweep through the roaring serf at Mollendo, and embark on the steamship Ayacucho, 2,200 tons register, and in fifteen hours we cast anchor in the roadstead of Arica, 560 miles south of Callao. I present my papers to Geo. H. Nugent Esq., British and American Consul, a tall, command- ing, fine-looking man. He receives me very kindly, but sees no hope of employing either school-teacher or preacher in Arica, and thinks it impossible for me to do anything in Tacna, The thought strikes me, "I had better not waste time here, but return to the steamer and proceed to Iquique, the next point on my list of places to be visited ; " but having heard in Callao that the merchants of Tacna were an enterprising, noble class of men, I could not consent to pass them without an effort to do them good. 116 ABICA A]S T D TACISA. 117 'No train to Tacna till 3 P.M., and with sev- eral intervening hours on my hands, I must do something ; so under the burning heat of a tropical sun, the hot sand almost crisping my shoe-leather, I climbed a mountain overlook- ing the sea. Its summit brings me within the O O sweep of the southwest trade winds that blow daily along this coast. How refreshing to the wayworn traveler ! Here we get a grand view of the distant Andes heights, and the inter- vening desert wastes. Beneath our feet is the town of Arica, containing a population of about 3,000 souls. We count five main streets at right angles from the shore, intersected by about the same number. About three miles north we see on an arid plain the United States war-steamer the Wateree. For a wonder in this desert land, we see on the north border of the town a few acres of garden land covered with vegetable products, and a variety of trop- ical fruit-trees. The percolating waters of an invisible river, seeking an underground passage from the mountains to the sea, are tapped by means of wells, and utilized by the gardeners. The houses and courts are, as usual in this country, of the Oriental style, built of adobes, sun-dried brick, the most of them but one 118 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. stoiy in height. Among the exceptions to this class of buildings is a large two-story mansion of Mr. Alexander McLean, built of dressed stone. Mr. McLean is a Scotch gen- tleman, who has resided here over forty years ; his wife is a fine specimen of a native lady, of a rugged, hardy type, who, though an old grand- mother, wears the fresh appearance and mani- fests the vigor of a young woman in Scotland. These are the honored heads of a large re- spectable family connection residing in this region of country. The principal church edifice of the town is an iron structure from New York. Some years age the President of Peru, His Excel- lency Don Balta, dispatched a special messen- ger to the United States with an appropriation of $200,000 to be invested in the construction of a church of the best style of Gothic archi- tecture, to be shipped and put up at Ancon, a fashionable watering-place north of Lima. Poor President Balta did not live to see his beautiful American church. His Minister of War, and two of his brothers who were colonels in the army, had been taken up by Senor Balta from a low station in life, and thus promoted to honor. They proved themselves to have been AEICA AND TACNA. 119 frozen snakes warmed into life in the bosom of their benefactor. They concocted a revolution, which broke out in July, 1871. The said Minister of War assassinated the President as he sat unarmed in the executive mansion. He then by his rebel troops seized the garrison, dispersed the Senate and Congress then in session, and put a heavy cannon in position to pour a deadly volley upon the city. One of his officers, shocked at the thought of the promiscuous slaughter of unoffending men, women, and children, dared to remonstrate against the order. In- stantly the arch rebel shot him, and in the next moment received a fatal shot himself from an unknown aim. The murdered and the murderer fell dead almost in the same second of time, It was supposed that the sudden retribution was occasioned by a stray shot from without, but a man who witnessed the tragedy told me that one of his own soldiers shot him. The rebellion was extinguished during the night of the day in which it broke out. The next day the dead bodies of the three rebel brothers were exposed in the streets to the scorn of the populace, and then were burned. 120 OUK SOUTH AMEEICA^f COUSINS. President Balta's fine cliurcli had not yet arrived. The ship containing it, like the Peruvian ship of state, suffered a reverse, and had to return to New York, and at great cost transfer the church to another vessel. In con- sequence of the President's untimely death, the church was not taken to Ancon, but was land- ed at Callao, and thence by means of steamers brought in detached parts and finally erected here in Arica, As it now stands, it cost the Government, as I am informed by a resident who knows the whole history of it, half a million of dollars. The cost of such an edifice in New York would be about fifty thousand. I attended mass in it one Sabbath morning. In the midst of surrounding darkness, there on my knees, I had sweet communion with Him who is the light of the world. About sixty of our female cousins maintained their erect kneeling posture for more than an hour, while a few men stood round gazing at the perform- ance. A dear feminine cousin near me sighed deeply, and to relieve her weak knees, occasion- ally sat on the floor, but resumed her kneeling posture at each ringing of the little bell at the altar, and repeated the ceremony of " crossing." I repeated the twenty-second Psalm, and got AEICA AND TACNA. 121 through with my prayers in less than half the time, and got a comfortable seat, and waited till the service closed. It is said that one night Mr. Wesley chanced to bed with a fellow clergyman. Wesley spent a short time in prayer, retired, and in a few minutes was sound asleep. His companion spent an hour in reading his lessons and pray- ers, and then roused Wesley from his slumbers, and administered to him a reproof, saying: "What presumption in a man like you to make such a show of piety in the world as you do ! You came in here, and got into bed in five minutes and went to sleep, while I have been engaged in my devotions for an hour." Wesley replied, with a smile, "You get so far behind with your prayers, it takes an hour every night to make up lost time, but I keep prayed up." I find it a good thing to " keep prayed up," or as St. Paul puts it, to " pray without ceasing ; " such live in the spirit of prayer, and abide in momently union with Jesus, as the branch in the vine, and they are the persons who most delight to "enter into their closet and pray to their Father," and par- ticipate in the sacred services of the sanctuary. For many years I have been in the habit occasion- 122 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. ally of going into the assemblies of our Roman Catholic brethren and sisters, to kneel down with them to pray for them and for myself, and if they had the freedom of the Jewish syn- agogue, where " the Scriptures were read every Sabbath day," and should say to me, " If you have any word of exhortation, brother, say on," I should be glad to tell them that the per- sonal, living Lord Jesus had, according to the purpose of His coming, saved me from my sins. As I am not allowed to do that, I can only pray for them, and on all suitable occasions show them the sympathy and love the Saviour hath put into my heart for all the families of the earth. "Why should not the warm sym- pathy and love of every saved one go with the Saviour's blessing into every household in the world, for "in Him shall all the families of the earth be blessed"? Universal kindness to all men does not necessarily mean concurrence with the wrong theories or practices of any man. The God-man sat down and ate with publicans and sinners, and did not insult them by any obtrusive, untimely attack upon their errors and wickedness, and yet he did not com- promise the truth, nor endorse their errors, but by his winning ways and wisdom he induced ARICA AND TACNA. 123 them to open the doors of their hearts, and light from heaven entered, and thus they saw their errors and their sins, and felt a heaven- wrought desire to be led to a better life. Arica is a place greatly distinguished for its sublime earthquakes and tidal waves. From Mr. Squier's able work on the Incas, published by Harper Brothers, I copy the fol- lowing description of the earthquake of 1868, written by an officer of the U. S. gunboat Wateree : "At about twenty minutes past five o'clock we saw immense clouds of dust some ten miles south of Arica, which came nearer and nearer. Then we saw the peaks of the mountains begin to wave to and fro like reeds in a storm. As the wave approached us we saw great rocks rent from the mountain heights, and with large mounds of earth they rolled down their sides. Very soon the whole earth was shaking. When the convulsion reached the mole, it also began to move, and the town commenced to crumble into ruins. The noise was like the rumbling echoes of thunder, the explosive sounds like those of the firing of a heavy battery, terrific and deafening. The whole soil of the country, as far as we could see, was 124 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. moving first like a wave in the direction from south to north ; then it trembled, and at last it shook heavily, throwing into heaps of ruins two-thirds of all the houses of Arica. Shock after shock followed. In several places sul- phurous vapor issued from openings in the earth. At this juncture a crowd of people flocked to the mole, seeking boats to take refuge on the vessels in the harbor. As yet the shipping felt not the least commotion from the disturbances on the land. After the first shock there was a rest. The Wateree and the Fredonia sent their surgeons ashore to assist the wounded. Between fifty and sixty people of the town had reached the mole by this time to take the boats. But the surgeons had hard- ly landed, and but few others had entered the boats, when the sea quietly receded from the shore, leaving the boats hard aground. When the water had reached the depth of extremely low tide, then all at once, on the whole levee of the harbor, it commenced to rise. It ap- peared at first as if the ground of the shore was sinking. The mole was carried away, and the people on it were seen floating. The water rose to the height of thirty-four feet above high-water mark, and overflowed the town, AEICA AND TACNA. 125 sweeping down what the earthquake had left. All this work of the waters was done in five minutes. Then the water rushed back into the ocean more suddenly than it advanced upon the land. This awful spectacle of de- struction by the receding flood had hardly been realized when the sea rose again, and now the vessels in port began dragging their anchors. The water rose to the same height as before, and on rushing back, it brought not only the debris of a ruined city with it, but even a loco- motive and tender, and a train of four cars were seen carried away by the force of the waters. During the advance of the sea inland, another terrific shock, lasting about eight minutes, was felt. At this time all around the city the dust formed in clouds, obscuring the sky, and render- ing the land quite invisible. Then was heard the thundering approach of a sea wave, then was seen a sea wall of perpendicular height, to the extent of from forty-two to forty-five feet, capped with a fringe of bright glistening foam, sweeping over the land, stranding far inland the United States war-steamer Wateree, the Peruvian frigate America, and an English mer- chant ship and many others." Mr. Nugent and family and many others 126 CUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. fled to the hills after the first shock, before the tidal wave came. He told me that he Avas in- duced thus to flee to the mountains from hav- ing read an account of the earthquakes in the West Indies the preceding year, and that there the tidal wave immediately followed the earth- quake shocks. Thus he had the advantage of the wretched people who did not read the papers, and who, in their ignorance, rushed for the boats to seek a refuge on the ships. The Wateree was a God-send to the destitute thou- sands who had lost all but life. She had all her stores in perfect order ; having been built for river service during the war, and drawing but six feet of water, she was carried on the crest of the waves a quarter of a mile inland, and set down on a level plain. Not a man was lost, except one poor fellow who was in the boat when the ship was carried ashore. The captain generously supplied the sufferers with blankets, provisions, and whatever the ship contained that they needed. I have heard many of them speak gratefully of the relief they got from the Wateree. The tidal wave of last May lifted the Wateree from her bed and carried her about two miles north, broke her back, and set her down much nearer AKICA AKD TACNA. 127 to the sea, where she now appears to be "a vessel of wrath, fitted only for destruction." Thus it seems that the tidal wave of last May was as high, or higher, than the one of 1868, which sent this noble ship ashore. We walk over many acres of desolation in Arica, Rail- way works, workshops, foundry, freight and engine-houses, stores and dwellings of the town, caught up from their foundations, skaken to fragments, and scattered to the winds. There are heaps of rail-cars upturned ; here, a steam- ship in pieces, engine there, boiler yonder. There lies a great iron turning-lathe thrown from some wreck, and a war-ship's supply of cannon balls, all discharged at one shot, lie in a pile of unnumbered tons ; further on a lot of mill-stones ; and there are twenty -four beauti- ful truncated iron columns, ship-loads of iron in all shapes, to tell of blasted hopes and of fortunes lost in Arica. At 3 P.M. on the 9th of January, I took the rail for Tacna, thirty-nine miles distant, at an elevation of 2,000 feet above sea-level. A hot, dusty travel over a desert, till we see in the distance the green gardens and orchards of Tacna, It is a town of about 14,000 inhabitants. 128 OUE SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. Living streams, fresh from the Andes, flow through some of the principal streets, and water the neighboring vineyards and gardens ; It is an oasis in the desert. We arrived at 6 P.M. I had a letter of in- troduction from our Consul at Arica to Mr. A , of Tacna, so I engaged a boy to carry my portmanteau and conduct me to his house. We had gone but a few rods, when my porter employed a smaller boy to do the carrying business, while he, as the original contractor, should play the gentleman, and get a fee for himself and another for the little Cholo who carried the load. Coming to a hotel, I left my luggage, and went beyond the town, and found the man I sought. I gave him the letter, and explained to him the object of my mission. He was kind, but quite unbelieving. He was quite sure that I could do nothing in Tacna, so I left him, and returned to the hotel. At the supper-table I made the acquaintance of a young English gentleman, and tried to find out how many English-speaking families re- sided in the town, and what the prospect for educational work. He could give me no en- couragement. Later in the evening, I strolled down town to the plaza, where many gentle- AEICA AND TACNA. 129 men and ladies were promenading, and others reposing on the public seats prepared and waiting for the weary ; so I sat down on one beside a German, who informed me that there were a few English and many German families in Tacna, and he believed that a good English school was one of the great needs of the city. I was glad I met with that German; he did me good. I returned, and retired to bed at 9 P.M., but not to sleep. It was one of those nights of waking visions such as I used to have in Bombay, when God made known His way to his poor ignorant servant. I don't mean mirac- ulous visions, but an intelligible manifestation of God's will, showing me my path of duty through unexplored regions where there were no sign -boards nor blazed trees to indicate the right way. The revealings of that night widened my field of operations, narrowed my work, and shortened my stay for the present in South America, so as to put me back to New York early in May of this year. My way was widened so as to send good school- teachers where preachers would not be received at all; my work narrowed, so that instead of staying to plant churches, as I did in India, I 6* 130 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSLNS. was first to send men to lay the foundations ; then, after a term of years, return to build ; time shortened by extending my preparatory work rapidly along the coast, and hasten home to find and send the workers. Tacna was to be my first departure from the old line of purely evangelistic work, to the new line of school-work simply, where noth- ing more is at present possible. I had it all mapped out before morning, and hence the first thing was to write my proposal for the merchants of Tacna to found an English school. I had it clearly stated, so that they could see the object, and the way to attain it, at a glance, and have nothing to do but sub- scribe the funds and sign the papers. I went into the coffee-room and sat down by a young man who I thought might understand the English language. I found him to be an in- teHigent gentleman of French extraction, but a native of Minnesota. He was my provi- dential man for the moment. I laid my case before him, and he said : "I don't think you can do anything in Tacna, but the man whom you should see is Mr. Wm. Hellman. If you can get him to see as you do, you'll succeed. He'll not come ARICA AND TACXA. 131 to his office till 11 A.M. ; but I am just now going down town, and will show you his place of business." At the hour designated, I presented myself to Mr. Helhnan, and stated my object, and showed him my written proposals. He replied : " It is a thing very much needed here ; but this whole country is badly demoralized, and I fear that nothing can be done." " Well, my dear sir, you are hardly prepared to turn them all over to the ' old scratch,' with- out at least one more effort for the education of the rising generation. If you can succeed in giving a good education and a good moral training to one boy of thousands who are running wild around here, he may be the com- ing man of mark to raise this country to a higher level. What I propose, too, is not like a great railroad venture, involving a haz- ardous outlay of funds, but a very economical enterprise, with promise of large returns for the good of the country." " I have brought out governesses at different times from England, but they get discouraged, and do but little good." " Now, last of all, you had better try one live 132 OUK SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. American to help you found a good English school in Tacna." " But, I am not the man to lead in such a movement ; you should go to Mr. Outram." " Very well ; if Mr. Outram leads, will you follow?" " Yes, I will do my part." " Shall I go alone, to wait on Mr. Outram, or will you go with me ? " By this time he had put on his hat, and said, " Come, let us go." Just outside he met the banker, Seiior Don Basadre, and began to explain the project to him. I said, " Fetch him along." So on they came, and I was introduced to Mr. Outram, a merchant piince. My friend, Mr. H , saved me the trouble of telling my story, by stat- ing the case himself, and advocating it elo- quently. In a few moments Mr. Jones came in, and Mr. H said to him : " Mr. Jones, you re- member we were talking the other day about the great need of an English school in this town, and were devising how it could be brought about. Now here is a benevolent gentleman, who has come to help us in this very thing." ARICA AND TACNA. 133 Mr. O said : " How long can you re- main with us ? " "I expect to return to Arica to-morrow morning." "This is our mail-day for Bolivia, and we are all extremely busy, but we think well of your proposition, and I think we will write you a favorable response to Valparaiso, if that will do." " Thank you, sir, that will do, if you cannot do better ; but this is a very plain case, which need not consume much of your time, and my success here will help to open my way along the coast." He made no reply, but took up his pen and signed the articles of agreement. Then Mr. Jones signed. Meantime Mr. H made some allusion to California, and said that he lived in San Francisco in 1853. "Do you remember a man called Father Taylor, who preached every Sabbath after- noon on the plaza to the masses ? " "Yes, I remember Father Taylor very well." " That same Father Taylor has come now to help you here in Tacna." We both rose up 134 OUE SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. and shook hands as old friends. So we pro- ceeded and completed our preparatory business in about half an hour more. I asked for a subscription of 30 sterling to pay passage of a single man from New York to Tacna, and the guarantee of $100 per month for his sup- port till the school could be made self- support- ing to the extent of at least that amount. Eight generous gentlemen signed the papers, obliging themselves voluntarily tt> give 90 sterling for passage, and $200 per month guarantee for a male and female teacher, a good man and his wife our engagement to cover a period of at least three years. Tacna carries on a large trade, principally of wool and copper, with Bolivia, transported across the near range of the Andes on the backs of llamas and mules. The llama carries a burden of one hundred pounds, the mule three hundred pounds. Arica is the port of entry, and its lists of imports and exports will convey an idea of the strength of this current of commerce. Her imports consist of cottons, woolens, linens, silks, furniture, hardware, earthen- ware and glassware, oilman's stores, wines, malt liquors and spirits, and medicines. AKICA ATs T D TACNA. 135 The sources and value of these imports for 1876 are as follows, in silver coin : Chile, France, Germany, . Great Britain, United States, $116,652 48 545,995 99 455,325 35 686,800 77 116,652 48 Total, $1,854,171 08 The exports of Arica consist principally of Peruvian bark, copper ore, tin ore, bar tin and bullion, sheep's wool, alpaca, llama and vicuna wool, coffee, tobacco, brandy, hides and skins in great variety, etc. Total value in silver dollars for 1876, amounts to the sum of $4,816,686.09; more than one-half of this amount was in gold and silver bullion and coin. I am indebted to the kindness of our Consul for these facts. He lost $50,000 his all, except a town lot by the earthquake of 1868. Having a large family to support and to educate, now numbering twelve robust, healthy children, he determined to dig a hole in the ground, on his own town lot, and "make by fresh water what he had lost by salt." He hap- pily struck the "invisible river," which sent forth copious supplies of clear pure water 136 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. already filtered by its percolation through the rubble and sand. He got up a water company, with capital to the amount of $200,000. They employ two steamers to carry water one hun- dred and eight miles south to Iquique, and to other dry ports still more remote. Prior to this, Iquique had to depend on distillation of fresh water from salt, which was sold at eight cents per gallon. Arica delivers it to the Iqui- que people for two cents per gallon. The water-tank at Iquique has an elevation of sixty-seven feet, and contains one thousand tons of water. Though Mr. N gets the water out of his own land, he has to pay the municipality a tax of $4,000 per year, and $964 port dues, to get it out, and pays Iquique $1,200 per year duty to get it in, and yet the business pays a good dividend. I had the promise of a passage in the water steamer, Maria Louisa, Captain Wm. Taylor, to Iqui- que, on Friday the llth, and hence my haste to return from Tacna ; but the said steamer did not get off till Monday P. M., so I had to pay $1 per night for poor lodgings, and wait patiently. I was, however, made welcome at the table of our consular friend and his kind family. The Lord bless them. The railway works of the AEICA AND TACNA. 137 Arica and Tacna railroad, twice torn to pieces within nine years by tidal waves, have recently been removed to Tacna, two thousand feet above ordinary sea-level, where they hope to have no further annoyance from the sea. P. S. New York, June 5th, 1878. True to their engagement, my merchant princes of Tacna f orwarded the passage funds, and I have appointed Professor Alexander P. Stowell, Mrs. Stowell, and a music-teacher besides, to found the school. They are to sail from New York for Tacna on the 30th of this month. vn. IQUIQUE. ON Monday, January the 14th, as the sun in grand reflected radiance was sinking beneath the horizon of the great waters of the West, we embark on Captain Taylor's steamer Maria Louisa. She has a freight of 85,000 gallons of pure water from Arica wells, bound for Iquique, distant one hundred and ei;ht miles. She has O in tow the San Carlos, containing 200,000 gal- lons of water, bound for Pasagua, which is an important port for the saltpeter trade, a little over half-way to Iquique. Captain Taylor is a very gentle, kind Scotch- man, and son-in-law of Captain Wilson, Brit- ish Vice-Consul of Callao. When I informed the captain of our contemplated school in Tacna, the tears seemed to fill his eyes. 138 IQUIQUE. 139 " Ah, that touches me ! I sent my wife and four children to Scotland, three years ago, for the children's education. Our oldest is but twelve years old now. To endure this wretched separation from one's family till they all get their education, is a long, lonesome lane to travel. I do hope you will succeed in found- ing a good school in Tacna. I will bring my wife and children back, and settle them there, and have my children educated where I can see them every week." Within the last forty years, thousands of cases of this sort have transpired along the coast. Many hundreds of children have been educated in Valparaiso, but the board and tuition of a pupil there for one year costs about $800. A man with a large family and small means cannot stand that rate of ex- penditure. Others send their children to the United Kingdom and to Europe for their edu- cation. Some return and do well, but a very- large number, freed from the wholesome checks of parental influence, not to speak of the molding power of the parent in the develop- ment of a child's character, fall into bad asso- ciations, and form habits which ruin them for life. I met a gentleman of fortune a few days 140 OUK SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSIXS. ago, who spent a large sum of money on the education of his two sons in London. They returned to their kind, hopeful father last year. To the great grief of the father, he soon found that his elder son, instead of being a gen- tleman and a competent business-man as he hoped, was a confirmed drunkard, and died in delirium tremens before the year was out. The younger proved to be a worthless spendthrift, unfit for any business. Many others send their wives and children home to- gether, that the mother may superintend the education of the children. In some cases this works well, but in most cases disastrously, at least to the parents. To found a good English school, therefore, in eveiy English-speaking community on this coast, and that by a liberally educated Gospel minister, who can exercise a pastor's care over the people also, is the blessed work which God has sent me to initiate in this land. Yet, blessed as that may be in itself, it is not the end of my mission to South America, but simply a means of blessjng to the thirty-eight millions of the Latin races who are our kin- dred and near neighbors, from whom we should withhold no good thing. IQUIQUE. 141 Iquique is the principal port of the province of Tarapaca, the native province of General Castillo, the Abraham Lincoln of Peru ; slavery expired at the edge of his sword; a great general in the field, a wise statesman, one of the best administrators that ever filled the presidential chair of that republic, and withal, a full-blooded Indian, one of the old Incas risen from the dead. As we near our anchorage at Iquique on Tuesday morning, the 15th of January, Captain Taylor points to the wreck of a ship he lost there last year. This can hardly be called a harbor ; it is a roadstead, protected on the south by a little island, on which a steamship lies high on the rocks. She was anchored there, quite unbroken, by the tidal wave of the 9th of last May. Captain T introduced me to half a dozen leading gentlemen of Iquique, who gave me but little encouragement. All admitted the great need of a school, and some thought a preacher might do some good ; but the thing had been tried in good times, and the result was utter failure, and now, in these hard times, it was all nonsense to attempt such a thing. I had met that objection at all preced- 142 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. ing ports, and had become somewhat familiar iwith the facts, and with both sides of the argument. A very good and able doctor of divinity from Liverpool visited this coast some years ago, to find out from personal observation its spiritual requirements, and devise means to meet them. He meant well, but did not adopt the right method. He did not commit the people here in any way, but committed himself by the promise of help from a generous people at home. His plan was defective, in that he was aiming to apply the missionary principle of dependence to a people who were as able to support school-teachers and Gospel ministers as the average of people who give missionary money at home. To treat such either as paupers or heathens is an insult : though they may ap- preciate the motive and receive the misdirected effort with thanks, the result is failure. A thing to live must embody a sound vital principle. Later still a learned bishop traversed the coast from Panama to Patagonia. In some places he got large sums of money subscribed. In such places, and in others where he hoped that the people would raise the funds to support a clergyman, the bishop appointed IQUIQUE. 143 " councils " to co-operate with Mm in carrying out his pious pui-pose. He " struck the lead," but his machinery was too unwieldy and too costly for this coast, and was entangled with too much tape for the times here. The sup- plies of men had to come through another bishop eight thousand miles away. Here in Iquique the good bishop got four thousand dollars subscribed, and the people really thought it meant business. After many months of suspense, the " council " received a letter from the great metropolitan master, stating that he had given due consideration to their case, and could only state, that unless the people of Iquique would pledge themselves to build a church, and guarantee a salary of $5,000 per year, he could not send them a clergyman. The people were neither able nor willing to assume such a responsibility. The chaplain in Callao for a few years past received a salary of $4,000 in gold, and his perquisites, it is said, exceeded another thousand, for he made a charge for every baptism, and for reading the funeral service over a poor dead sailor he presented his bill for sixteen dollars to the Consul, who paid it. I don't pen these facts invidiously, but 144 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. to show how impossible it appears to the people in smaller towns to have a preacher. If I had the men at command at once, I could station forty of them where they could do a great educational and evangelical work, and get a support, in no place less than $100 per month; but I have to get a people whose confidence has been broken down to sub- scribe funds to pay the passage and guarantee the support of men yet to be selected and sent out after a period of six months or more. It requires great presumption, or great faith in God and man, to undertake such a work. I have great faith in God, and great faith in man, and in the past both have exceeded my expectations. Nevertheless, coming as an unofficial stran- ger, my nationality, my church relations, and the prospect of supplies of men from my coun- try are urged as a serious ground of objection to the undertaking, by some moneyed men whose influence falls into the opposite scale; my success will be a providential miracle, and I will give all the glory to God. The great risk at the start is the raising of the passage- money. All admit that if a good man was on the ground there would be no difficulty at all IQUIQUE. 145 about getting all the funds required for his support. The English-speaking people of this coast are very much like the pioneer Cali- fornians, they make and spend their money freely, and give liberally to any worthy object. I could collect the passage-money as I proceed, but it is too long to hold it. The oppo- sition would laugh at the men giving it with an innuendo remark and shrug of the shoulder to the effect that the man they trusted had run away with their money. Hence, I would not handle a dime of their funds. The sweep of counter currents for six months imperils their confidence. The danger is that doubt may predominate, and prevent them from collecting and forwarding the funds ; but I will trust and work, and win, by the mercy of God, and the surviving faith and liberality of the people. Well, here we are in Iquique, the place we have read about, that "was swallowed up by an earthquake in 1868." It was not " swallow- ed up," but it was terribly shaken to pieces ; the tidal wave swept over a large portion of it, and of its 13,000 people, it was supposed that one-half of them were drowned. The town suffered terribly also by the earthquake 7 146 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. of last May. The people fled to the hills and escaped the tidal wave, but the kerosene lamps left burning in their houses were upset by the violence of the shocks, and set the town on fire. There were three fire-companies in the town, two German and one English. They rushed out with their engines to quench the flames. The tidal wave saved them that trouble, but swept away the engines and hose of both the German companies, and the Eng- lish company made a very narrow escape. Iquique has a population of about 12,000. Its principal export is nitrate of soda or salt- peter. It is brought from the coast range of mountains back of the town. The villages of Limena and La Noria, thirty -four miles distant, are large sources of supply. I visited those diggings, and the rocks that cover hundreds of acres of those dry mountains are of pure white salt. The saltpeter is found in loads a few feet below the surface. Much of it is dug out in a pure crystallized form, but it is boiled, filtered, and dried, and then put into sacks containing about three bushels each. Those deposits are connected with Iquique by rail- way. The main track is seventy miles in length, with side tracks, making a total of IQUIQUE. 147 about one hundred miles. This road was built by a native company, with borrowed English capital. The company could not meet their obligations, and the road and running stock were passed into the hands of the capitalists whose money built it, to be run by them till the whole debt, with interest, shall be paid. In their hands, it is a paying concern. The railroad works in Iquique constitute a very important part of the town. The following brief exhibit will convey an idea of the commercial importance of this town and its chief industry. Forty ships were at anchor in its harbor when I was there. I boarded twenty-eight of them one morning before breakfast. I can't say that I breakfast- ed very early that day. Most of them were large, first-class iron ships. The number and nationality of the ships freighted here last year, 1876, were as follows : English, 242 German, 58 French, 53 Norway, 8 North America, 17 Italy, 4 Belgium, \ Holland, 1 148 OUR SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. Chile, 1 Russia, 1 Nicaragua, 2 Denmark, ....... 1 Total, 389 The aggregate quantity and value of the saltpeter thus exported in 1876, was 7,050,764 quintals, valued at thirteen shillings per quin- tal, a round sum of over twenty- two million of hard dollars (822,033,637). The national- ity of the ships will give an approximate, but not an entirely accurate idea of the markets of the world to which this product of Iqui- que has been shipped, and is being shipped continually. Mr. Ralph Garratt, a kind-hearted Canadian gentleman, the station-master, secured for me, through the obliging disposition of Mr. Row- land, the manager, the free use of a well-fur- nished upper room in the company's large two- story building. Mr. Garratt also gave me a free welcome to his table. His family consists of a kind, gentle Peruvian wife, four children, an African nurse, a Chinese cook, and seven dogs. Mr. G , with a religious education, had not heard preaching for sixteen years prior to my visit ; not unwilling to hear, but how could he IQUIQUE. 149 " hear without a preacher " ? He was anxious for a school, and for preaching as well, and offered to subscribe liberally at the first men- tion of rny mission. I was advised to secure the co-operation of John Nairn, Esq., a reliable Presbyterian gentleman from Liverpool, who has resided in this country ever since the year 1841. He is married to a native lady, and has brought up his family on this coast. Mr. N received me very kindly, and was quite willing to assist in any way possible. By his advice we got the British Vice-Consul to issue a circular inviting the principal men of the town to a meeting at the Consulate that evening, Tuesday the 15th. We had a fail- at- tendance, but not many of the " men of means." I first submitted to them the proposal to send out a man and his wife to found a male and female school, the man to be pastor as well, for the English-speaking people. The question was discussed, and the conclusion was reached that, however desirable, they could not, these hard times, raise so much money as would be required for so large a venture. I then sub- mitted an alternate proposal, which I had previously written, to send a single man who should be qualified to teach and preach. They 150 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. cheerfully concurred in that, and appointed John Nairn, Esq., to accompany me to call on the people for subscriptions. The simple proposition I had written in my little book, accepted by the meeting at the British Consulate, was as follows : " The city of Iquique being in need of an English school of high grade, for the education of the children of English, German, and the better class of Peruvian families in all the branches of a good English education, and the classics, and also of a good Gospel minister for the English- speaking population, travelers, and seamen in this port, I propose to send hither a compe- tent man combining in himself the twofold character of school-teacher and pastor. Re- ligious creeds not to be interfered with, nor taught in the school. " I therefore respectfully ask gentlemen in- terested in this good enterprise, to subscribe the sum of 35, sterling, to pay his passage to Iquique, and a monthly subscription amounting to an aggregate of one hundred silver dollars per month for his support, until the school shall become self-supporting. Passage sub- scription to be paid by the middle of April of this year, the other monthly, after the arrival IQUIQUE. 151 of the teacher. This agreement to cover a period of at least three years. " Respectfully submitted, "WM. TAYLOR. " IQUIQUE, January 17, 1878. " We the undersigned concur in Mr. Taylor's proposal, and agree to pay the sums we here subscribe, and do all else we can to make the undertaking a success. "IQUIQUE, January 17, 18T8." This was followed by a record of fifty names, with subscriptions exceeding the amount re- quired. The committee elected at a public meeting of the people were J. N. Satler, Ger- man Consul, treasurer; J. Martin, secretary; J. Nairn, Esq., collector for the city; Thomas Greenwood, collector in railway works and the harbor ; Ralph Garratt to provide a place for religious services.- At our meeting at the British Consulate, Mr. Garratt was appointed to provide a preaching place for me during my sojourn in the town. He furnished the railway station with seats and lights, and I preached there on Wednes- day and Thursday evenings of that week, and 152 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. at one and half-past seven p. M. the following Sabbath. Our congregations did not exceed forty persons, but were very attentive, and there was some awakening of real religious in- terest, like the outside melting of an iceberg. It required more time than I could command to secure a thorough soul-converting work. We had no public services after Sabbath, as I expected to leave on Monday, by the coast- ing steamer Ballistas, Captain Perrot ; but by detention of the steamer I did not get a pas- sage until the following Thursday. I had some trying delays and discouragements in Iquique, with many encouragements. I found one young man in Iquique who appears to be decidedly religious, Thomas Greenwood, from London. He has been in this desert land nearly four years. A Mr. Reader for a year or two had held small meetings in a read- ing-room in the railway company's works. When he left some months ago, Mr. G took his place, and has kept up the meetings of about half a dozen persons, but had be- come so discouraged that he sent his wife home to London, and was arranging to give up his place as a foreman in the railway work- shops, worth 350 soles per month, and return IQUIQUE. 153 to London to work as a common mechanic for less than half that amount of pay, just to be with God's people ; but when he saw what I was doing he was filled with joy, and took my book to the men in the shops and got sub- scriptions amounting to 100 soles per month. He at once wrote requesting his wife to return to Iquique, where he now expects to devote his life to business and to the work of God. I found a man in those shops who told me that he was four years a minister in the Wes- leyan Conference, but got out daring the ex- citement of "the Reform movement," and came to this coast in 1837. He has had a dreary time, but is feeling his way back to the "old paths, and the good way," with a sincere intention to " walk therein." I found in Mr. J. M. Nicholls, head foreman in the railway works, a true friend of our en- terprise. The most striking incident of my visit to Iquique occurred on the evening of the 23d of January. Mr. G , a young Englishman, who was somewhat awakened at my meetings, came at different times to talk, and get me to advise him what to do to be saved. His wife is a Chileuo lady, and in getting married, as 7* 154 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. usual in such cases, the priest obliged him to sign an obligation to be a Roman Catholic. That being against his conscience, he had been burdened with it during all the intervening years, and was anxious to see his way out. Well, on the evening of the 23d, he was in niy room ; I talked to him about an hour and then prayed with him. Just as I was closing my prayer, while yet on my knees, the bottom seemed to be going out generally. The foun- dations of the earth were shaken, and it ap- peared as though "the mountains might be carried into the midst of the sea." My man sprang to his feet, saying, " We must get out of this." " Never mind, I suppose it will be over soon." " No, if we don't get out at once the door will be jammed, and then we can't get out." With that he went and tried to open the door. It was already jammed, but by pulling and jerking he got it open, and went out. I looked about the room, and got my hat, and was going out of the door, when I remembered what my friend had told me, half an hour before, about the earthquake of last May overturning the lamps and setting the IQUIQUE. 155 town on fire ; so I returned and blew out my candle. The motion meantime was that of sudden jolting, like a wagon on a corduroy road. When I got out into the veranda, I had to go a distance of fifty feet to get to the stairs leading down and out. I could hardly keep on my feet. It was like walking the deck of a ship in a chopping sea in the Bay of Biscay. Descending the stairs I held on to the railing, and thus kept up. My friend was waiting for me below. By the time I got on to the ground the violent shocks abated, fol- lowed by vibrations every few minutes. We already saw lights on the hills, and others mov- ing rapidly up. Every dog in town seemed to expect the engulphing sweep of the tidal wave, and with the people ran to the hills, making the darkness hideous by their barking. Mr. G said, "Excuse me, I must go and look after my wife and children." I then walked up to Mr. Garratt's. He and his family, with the help of some of his watchmen, were busily engaged providing bed- ding, water and provisions for lodging on the hills. Said Mr. G , " This is heavier than the earthquake of last May, and the sea will be 156 CUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. upon us in a quarter of an hour, if we don't get away to the hills. So I got my Bible and a wrapper and went with them. It was very dark, and, except the hideous barking of the dogs, awfully quiet. "Ah," said Mr. G , "this dreadful still- ness precedes the tidal wave. It will sweep this town in ten minutes." It was awful to think of forty ships grinding each other to pieces, and be dashed and broken up amid the ruins of the town. Never having had my nerves shaken by such scenes before, I did not feel half the alarm that the residents mani- fested, but I quietly prayed to God to spare the town and the shipping. I thought of Abraham pleading for Sodom, and begged the Lord, if there were not ten righteous men in the place, possibly there might be three, and to spare it for their sake, and if not three, then in mercy to give the place a chance to benefit by the ministry of the man of God to be sent to Iquique. We waited on the hill about an hour, when Mr. G and I walked back. He stopped at his house, and I went to his office, and met a number of leading gentlemen of the town. The earthquake had stopped the clock in the railway office at three IQUIQUE. 157 minutes to 8 P.M., so we tlms knew the exact time of the shocking event. About 10 P.M. I went to my room and retired to bed. Happily the sea remained quiet, but all seemed to be painfully apprehensive of a recur- rence, and perhaps the next time the earth might open her mouth and swallow the whole town. I searched to see that I was wholly submit- ted to God, and quietly entrusted soul and body to the care of my Saviour. I could not call to mind one act of my life on which I could base any hope of heaven, but sweetly resting my all in the hands of Jesus, I had sweet assurance that all was well. As I was dropping off to sleep I counted ten shocks that caused a creaking of the timbers of the building, but I soon fell asleep, and waked up in the clear light of a peaceful morning. P. S. New York, June 5th, 1878. I will add that the secretary of our committee in Iquique, J. Martin, Esq., has duly forwarded the passage-money, and I have appointed Pro- fessor J. "W. Collier, B.A., to that important station, and he is to sail from New York for Iquique on the 31st day of July, proximo. vrn. PABELLON DE PICA. BY the kind invitation of Captain Perrott, I took passage on his little coasting steamer, the JBaUstm, from Iquique, fifty-five miles, to the guano-loading port bearing the above hard name, pronounced Pahbelyone da Pecah. Our very small craft was loaded down to her lowest safe depth. The deck was piled up with lumber, pine boards from Oregon, and with baled hay. Mr. White, the kind-hearted Scotch engineer, offered me his bunk below for the night, but, with thanks for his kindness, I preferred the soft side of a pile of boards on the deck, where I could enjoy the breeze. My deck companions were three Cholo cousins of ours ; one, an old man, pretty drunk. He went to sleep on a bale of hay, and by a lurch in the night, was thrown headlong on boxes and boards piled up level with the top of the bulwarks ; six inches further he would have gone overboard. He cut his head badly, and lost his hat. Poor old coz ! 158 PABELLOX DE PICA. 159 No. 2 was a very rotund, well-conditioned- looking man, wlio could speak a few words of English. He was full of bad rum and nonsense. O His capacious pockets contained each a bottle of " evil spirits," and in one of them a six-shooter. He seemed to have a musical turn of mind, and occasionally entertained us by blowing a child's musical instrument. He had with him his little son of about seven years. The dear little fellow was fearful for himself and for his father, and tried to keep him from going to sleep, often fretting, and begging his father to sit up. He seemed to dread what so nearly happened to the old man a struggle in a drunken dream that might tumble him into the sea. Poor little fellow, with such a father, what will be his life-course and end ? Cousin John Chinaman served us with good coffee a genial, manly fellow was he. Next morning, within a mile of our port, Mr. White pointed to a small lone dwelling on the rocky shore of a little bay, said : " Do you see that house ? " "Yes." " That is all that remains of the town of Cheneviye. It contained a population of about 400, and the tidal wave of last May 160 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. swept it clean, and most of its inhabitants were carried clear away into the ocean." Some of the people fleeing to the hills call- ed to a German merchant as they passed his door, saying : " Get your family out quickly, and run for your lives." He shouted : " Go about your business, you want me to run away that you may steal my goods." He went in and barred his doors. Poor man ! daring thieves on some former occasion had doubtless closed his ears against the timely warning of his friends. In a minute after, his house, with himself and family all locked in, was carried into the sea and crushed to pieces. They were seen no more. Severe earthquakes on this coast occur once in a hun- dred years, but a second destructive visitation of that sort within nine years is quite excep- tional. Pabellon de Pica is one of the great guano- loading ports of Pern. There are here and at Haunillos, 22 miles south, including a few 7 7 O vessels at Point Labos, one hundred and three ships. My work is to follow the cur- rents of English commerce along^ the dark o o coasts of heathenism and of semi-Christian lands, to help to prevent the wreck of Chris- PABELLON DE PICA. 161 tian character on those foreign reefs and rocks, and to secure those already wrecked, and to utilize men and money for missionary evangel- izing purposes, instead of quietly allowing Satan to monopolize these resources and array them against the cause of God. Hence, it is quite in my line to enlist the men of the sea in this great work. I thought, possibly, I rniovht arrange to send a man to labor in the O O hundred ships always to be found along the coast embracing these three great guano-loading stations. The difficulty of this undertaking is to find a man on the shore whom the captains and crews can trust with the funds they may be willing to give to initiate and support the work. Of course I was not acquainted with the few men residing on the shore, but suppos- ing the captains to know them, I left that mat- ter with them, and to select a secretary and treasurer whom they could trust. I arrived in this port on Friday, the 25th of January. The surf was terrific ; the roar and vibrations of the quaking earth occurred about every hour, day and night. I was baffled in my arrangement for a boat on Saturday, and did not get into the fleet till Sabbath morning. It was a gloomy prospect, but I hailed a ship's 162 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSIXS. boat that was passing, and asked them to put me aboard the ship Prime Umberto. I had thought of trying to get the seamen together in some central ship in the fleet and preach to them, but as I ascended the ship's ladder, it struck me, " Too late for that ; better have in- formal services on as many ships as possible for the captains, mates, and men of each ship." Happy thought. I introduced myself to Cap- tain Robert Scott, and he introduced me to his wife and sister. I explained the object of my visit, and showed the proposal I had written in a little book for subscriptions, and said: " Now, Captain, if it is your pleasure to call your men aft, where they can get seats under the awning, we will have an informal religious ser- o* o vice, and then I will submit this matter to the whole ship's company together." " Very good," said he, and gave the order to the mate to " call the men aft." In about two minutes I had a congregation of about twenty. Many of the men bare-foot- ed, and in their shirt-sleeves, just as they were at their ease, when called. I said : " Men, I am glad to see you this bright Sabbath morning. I am glad you didn't get swallowed up by that big earth- PABELLOiN DE PICA. 163 quake the other night. That would have been a bad job for some of us, wouldn't it ? Well, this is not like Sunday at home, along with father, and mother, and sisters, still it is the Lord's blessed day of rest, and now I want you to join with me in singing His praise." I passed round and put a copy of " Hymns New and Old " into each sailor's hand. We'll sing the first hymn, " Oh for a thousand tongues to sing my great Redeemer's praise." They all joined in singing ; those who knew the tune, and those who did not, all sang with a will. We then sang two or three others, among which was that sweet hymn, " What a friend we have in Jesus," from which I struck out and preached to them for half an hour about the sinner's Friend. The Holy Spirit manifestly touched many hearts. I am sure He touched mine, and filled it with love and sympathy for my dear seafaring brethren. We then united in prayer to God, and no service in Gothic structures could have been more solemn, for lo, God was in that place. I then stated to them my wish to send a man to labor in these fleets. The captain said, " Men, if you wish to con- tribute, I will pay the amount you put down and keep account with you." 164 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. He then signed his name for 20 soles; the mates and men followed, and footed up the aggregate sum of 78 soles. The Captain or- dered his men to send me to the ship P. G. Carville, Captain McFee ; and I had a similar preaching service there. 3. In the ship ElUrsly, Captain Mowat. 4. In the ship Adria, Captain Weiss. 5. In the ship Herman, Captain Dingle. 6. In the ship Queen of the Mersey, Captain Sinclair. 7. In the ship Orosfeld, Captain Thompson. Several captains had their families aboard. The singing in some of the ships was grand, and the services in all well received. The next day, Captain Thomson, an earnest, Christian man accompanying, we had seven preaching services aboard of seven other ships. On Tuesday, the 29th of January, we had a meeting of the captains at the British Consul- ate, and adopted articles of agreement for the organization of a Seamen's Evangelical Society for the port of Pabellon de Pica. The follow- ing is a copy : " At a meeting of captains and other subscribers concurring in Rev. Wm. Taylor's proposal to send a preacher to labor in the port of Pabellon de Pica and vicinity, PABELLOX DE PICA. 165 the following articles of agreement were unani- mously passed : I. That the two hundred and twenty-two subscribers to the fund be hereby constituted an association for the support of a minister of the Gospel, to labor among seamen in this port and vicinity. II. That all future contributors to this fund shall thereby become members of this association. III. That the captains of ships, being sub- scribers to the fund, shall, while at anchor in this port, be a committee to co-operate with the secretary, the treasurer, and the minister, in securing the object of this association. It shall be the duty of the committee : 1st. To elect, and re-elect when necessary, a secretary and treasurer. It shall be the duty of the secretary : 1st. To call a meeting of the committee, ac- companied by a statement of the main object of the meeting, as occasion may require ; after which general notice, five ship-masters meet- ing and voting, in conjunction with the secre- tary and treasurer, shall constitute a quorum for the transaction of business. 2d. To pay over immediately to the treas- urer all funds coming into his hands for the 166 OUB SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. association, except 200 soles to be kept in Land for incidental expenses. 3d. To keep an accurate record in a suitable book of all the official doings of the committee, and of all receipts and expenditures of the funds of the association. It shall be the duty of the treasurer to de- posit all the funds paid over to him in safe keeping, and pay it out only on checks signed by the secretary, and countersigned by two members of the committee. It shall be the duty of the committee : 1st. To fix the amount to be paid monthly for the support of the preacher, at a rate not lower than 20 sterling, or its equivalent in currency, nor higher than 25 sterling per month. In case of the preacher's marriage, an additional sum to be allowed for family ex- penses, not exceeding in all 40 sterling per month, for himself and family. 2d. To select one or more of their number to go alone, or in company with the minister, as may seem best, to visit all the incoming ships, and inform the masters, mates, and men of this association, invite them to subscribe to its funds, and participate in its work. 3d. To designate a suitable vessel as Bethel PABELLOX DE PICA. 167 flag-ship, pro tern., give due notice of the time of service, and invite their men to attend. 4th. To afford facilities aboard their ships on Sabbath days, or on week evenings, for in- formal services for singing, prayer, and preach- ing, and for the organization of Bible-reading classes and Christian fellowship bands, as the work may progress in a ship's company. 5th. To see that the funds of the association shall not be appropriated for the building of Bethels, nor for any other purpose than that for which they were contributed, viz. : the traveling expenses and support of the minister, and the incidental expenses necessarily incurred in the work. Finally, the committee shall have power to change the location of the work, north or south on this coast, if required by change in the guano-loading ports. Besides passing the foregoing articles of agreement, the meeting elected Mr. John Pennington as secretary, and Mr. East as treasurer, and an executive committee, as in- dicated in No. 3, to visit ships, etc., of which Captain Thompson, of the ship Crosfield, was the chairman. 168 CUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. The aggregate sum subscribed, meantime, amounted to 947 soles, worth about $600 in silver. The ships lie in that port from three to six months ; no attractions on the land to entice the seamen, no land-sharks in those waters, a needy and grand field for service among the men of the sea. The captains and men felt the importance of the movement, and have subscribed cheerfully and liberally, but the weak point was the want of confidence for the security of their funds ashore. They offer- ed to pay the money to me, but I was on the wing like themselves, and moreover did not wish to handle it. However that may turn out, a man of God will be duly sent to that needy field. IX. HUAJOLLOS. THIS guano-loading port, with a fleet of about fifty ships, is twenty -two miles distant from Pabellon de Pica, I came hither by the same little steamer, Batistas, on Wednesday, the 30th of January. Our cargo consisted prin- cipally of hay and blasting-powder. " No smoking allowed on deck. There are a hundred barrels of powder all around you," shouted the captain. He could not command the sparks of the low smoke-stack of his steamer. I noticed that the head of the next barrel to the one on which I sat had been broken in, and thought, " well, one spark striking into that opening would relieve us of any further apprehension of earthquakes and tidal waves." On examination, however, I found that the powder was contained in a bas^ and the bag was protected by the barrel. This was part of a cargo of powder from America 169 170 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. which arrived in Pabellon de Pica last Satur- day. It was the boat of the powder-ship that conveyed me into the fleet at Pabellon last Sunday. The captain says he was three hundred miles from land on the 23d instant, when the earthquake occurred. Said he : "I was lying down in my cabin reading, and was startled by a roaring sound and terrible pitching of the ship, and thought it an explosion of the pow- der. I rushed for the deck, expecting to see the ship in flames, but to my surprise and joy the ship was all right. Then I knew what it was, and thought of the peril of the people on the land." We reached Huanillos just as the sun was beginning to dip into the western waters. On the recommendation of two of my liberal subscribers and friends at Pabellon de Pica, Captain Edwards of the True Briton, and Captain Jones of the ship Callao, I hired a boatman on my arrival at Huanillos to pull me directly to the ship Naval Reserve, Captain Morgan, a Christian gentleman. I had but one day to devote to that great fleet of ships, or else be detained a week, which my work and limited time would not allow. So I pre- HUANILLOS. 171 pared my subscription book and articles of agreement to be adopted at a meeting of captains, before I should leave, organizing an association similiar to that in Pabellon de Pica. It was too large an undertaking for one day, but I believed it possible, by the help of the Lord, and we, hence, proceeded with the work. We began Thursday morning with a service on the Naval Reserve. After the preaching, I explained the plan of sending a man of God to labor in the fleet, and Captain Morgan and his crew subscribed 102 soles. During the day we held nine services on nine different ships: the Moss Hose, Captain J. McNair; Corsica, of Glasgow, Captain A. Nichall ; bark Mary, of Glasgow, Captain Thomas Davis ; Emma Ives; ship Governor Wilmore, Captain- G. P. Low ; ship British, Empire, Captain Riches ; ship Peter Young, Captain Cain ; ship Eastern Liglit, Captain Evan Jones. The captains, mates, and men of those ships, with great cheerfulness and good will, sub- scribed an aggregate sum of 592 soles, value nearly $400. We announced, as we went along, a meeting of captains to be held at the British Consulate at 5 P.M. We held our meeting accordingly, with about eighteen 172 OTTE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. captains. The meeting adopted the articles of agreement to organize The Huanillos Seamen's Evangelical Society, and elected an execu- tive committee, but could not agree on the selection of a resident secretary and treasurer, which seems essential, at least in the absence of a minister. If I had the right preacher on board, then we should be safe enough in all our arrangements. The captains hoped they might be able to arrange it in the fleet, trans- ferring the books and money-box as each secretaiy and treasurer should sail. I don't jet know what they did, but the probability is that in the hurry of their business, the matter of completing the organization and collecting and depositing the funds would be postponed till the day of sailing, and then with no time left, they one by one would be off. So I hope against fear for both those fleets. I have not the slightest distrust of the men who subscribed. I know they would not willingly be parties a f arse and a failure, but unless they could satisfy themselves of the safety of the fund subscribed, the only thing I should ad- vise them to do would be to keep it in their own pockets. I did not receive a cent of it, though I perhaps made a mistake in not re- HTJANILLOS. 173 ceiving sufficient for the passage of tlie men ; still, if the Lord has the right men available, and I can find them, I must get the passage funds elsewhere, and send them. I have suffi- ciently prospected the field. I am safe in tying on to the seamen who do business in those waters, and I can't consent to a failure at all. Thursday, 9 P.M., Captain Morgan took me in his boat to the steamship Lima, of the P. S. N. Co., on which I leave the coast of Peru. We steam along, and touch at the four ports of Bolivia. 1. Tocopilla, great copper mines and works. One hundred and twenty Cornishmen at work there, and no man to care for their souls. A few of them hold a meeting every Sabbath in a private house. I saw a few leading men, and proposed to send them a preacher, but could not stay to enlist sufficient interest to secure certainty of success. 2. Cobija, 3. Mejillones two guano-loading ports. 4. Antofagasta, my next field for work. ANTOFAGASTA, BOLIVIA. LAKDED here Saturday A.M. the 2d of Feb- ruary. Was generously entertained by the P. S. N. Co.'s Agent, E. W. Foster, Esq., and his widowed mother. I was pleased to meet here an old friend from Australia, a genial gentleman, Dr. Neill, the physician of Anto- fagasta. The principal exports of this town, of about 10,000 population, are saltpeter, sil- ver, and copper. The great industries of the place are, first, extensive railway works, under the general supervision of George Hicks, Esq. Mr. Clem- ison has charge of the machine shops. There is a main line of railroad extending back seventy miles to Salinas, which with various branches makes an aggregate of about one hundred miles of railway, doing an immense business. 174 ANTOFAGASTA, BOLIVIA. 175 J. G. Adamson, Esq., has charge of the salt- peter works, which are of vast proportions. John Tonkin, Esq., has charge of the silver- smelting works. The "plant" of these silver works cost $450,000. They have been in operation four years. The yield of bar silver is in value about $300,000 per month. They have reached as high as half a million of dollars per month. The steam that has done its work in the silver smelting, and would be wasted, is utilized for condensing water for the use of the inhab- itants of the town. Mr. Tonkin turns out 24,000 gallons per day, for which the people pay him seven cents per gallon. The fol- lowing exhibit, by the favor of the British Consul of Antofagasta, H. R. Stevenson, Esq., will tell its own story about the Boliv- ian resources in this dry region. We present here the exports for the four last months of 1877, multiplied by three, giving approxi- mately the exports for the past year, as fol- lows : Of saltpeter, 1,015,290 quintales, worth about 83 per quintale $3,045,870. Of silver, 446,250 marks, worth about $10 per mark, $4,462,500. 176 OUK SOUTH AMEKICAN COUSINS. Of copper, 52,800 quintales, worth about $2.50 per quintale $132,000. Making an aggregate mineral export value of 87,640,370. All the men named are to my mind liberal, generous-hearted gentlemen, and most of the men employed by them seem to be a rough- and-ready, generous class of men. I made to them the following proposal : Antofagasta being in need of a school, in which the children of English, German, and the better class Bolivian families may obtain a good English education, I propose to send a competent teacher to supply this de- mand. As the residents, travelers, and seamen in this town would be benefited by religious ser- vices in the English language, I engage that the teacher shall be qualified to conduct them, and do the work of a pastor, religious creeds not to be interfered with nor taught in the school. It will require two hundred dollars to pay passage of the teacher hither, and at least one hundred dollars per month to support him. Passage funds will be required in April of this year, the other monthly, as the work shall pro- gress. The school to be made self-supporting as AXTOFAGASTA, BOLIVIA. 177 soon as possible, and thus relieve the monthly subscribers. "This agreement to cover a period of at least three years. " Respectfully submitted, "W. T. " ANTOFAGASTA, February 2, 1878." Tli is was concurred in by forty-seven sub- scribers, with an aggregate subscription of four hundred and ninety-five dollars, instead of the two hundred asked, and one hundred and forty-five dollars monthly subscription, instead of one hundred. This may illustrate the statement made by the people at all the places in which I have wrought on this coast : " There will be no O difficulty about getting all the money you need here, if you can give us the right sort of men." I say to them, " I have no hope of finding men who can please everybody, but I expect, for each place, to find a man compe- tent to perform all that his engagement re- quires a man of God, who will do his duty conscientiously. You may not like him at first, but with patience and further acquaint- ance, you will find him to be the right man in the right place." 178 OUE SOUTH AMERICAN COUSIXS. Among many new, cherished friendships formed during my brief sojourn in Antofa- gasta was an acquaintance with Senor Don E. Villena, Peruvian Consul for Bolivia. He was Peruvian Minister in Washington for some years, speaks our language well, and highly appreciates our country, its government, its schools, and its Gospel ministry for the intelli- gible instruction of the people. I have trav- eled in company with him many days, en- joyed his genial conversation, and got much valuable information from him in regard to his own country. Took passage from Antofagasta on Wednes- day noon, the 6th of February, for Caldera, Chile, in the P. S. N. Co.'s steamship Potosi. Owing to extraordinaiy tides in the harbor of Callao, sweeping away a great deal of prop erty, and suspending all shipping business for a time, the Potosi was a day behind her time, and in consequence did not stop at Cal- dera ; so I had to change at Chanaral to the steamer Itata of the Chile line. The first mate of the Itata, George Burton, showed me great kindness. His father, Col. Burton of the Madras army, devoted many years of his life to Christian work as an evan- ANTOFAGASTA, BOLIVIA. 179 gelist. George is a noble, energetic fellow, and if converted to God, and called by the Spirit, would make a grand missionary. Chanaral is the most northerly port of Chile. Our ship Potosi took aboard on this trip 250 tons of copper at this port. It is cast here into solid bars of 300 Ibs. each. The steam winch winds up a sling load of 1,200 Ibs. every minute and a half a very different process from the weighing and load- ing of these 300-lb. bars which I saw at the smelting works. Two men with great iron tong-claws clutch a bar and lay it on the scales. When weighed, two other men with their hands lay each bar on the shoulders of one of our burden - bearing cousins, who receives it in a kind of open knapsack, so adjusted as to divide the weight between the two shoul- ders and head a peculiar cap or band attached to the upper side of the sack passes round the forehead. In this Cousin Cholo carries a bar, and tumbles it into a railway car that conveys the cargo to the lighter which conveys it to the ship. The manager of the copper smelting works informed me that the establishment cost two and a half millions of dollars. It was founded 180 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. and owned ten years ago by our cousin Don Federica Varela, and sold by him in 1873 to the English company, to which it now belongs. Chanaral has a population of 3,500, 1,200 of whom are miners. The total exports of this center of commerce for 1876 amounted in value to $4,581,855. Chanaral was not on my list of places to be visited, and I had never heard of the place till I got nearly to it, but happily a young minister, Rev. Mr. Langbridge, and his wife, had arrived there from England but a month before, to teach and to preach, and had commenced their work with encouraging prospects of success. The P. S. N. Co.'s agent in Chanaral received me with great cordiality. He is the son of a minister of the Scotch Kirk, who, as chaplain in the Indian army, resided many years in Bombay ; hence the fact that I am a minister of the Gospel and a missionary from India allied him to me strongly. The Lord bless him and his family. I had a letter of commen- dation from the manager of the P. S. N. Co. for the Pacific Coast Noel West, Esq. to all his agents along my line of travel, and they all showed me great kindness, which I am glad to acknowledge ; but such as had been in some AXTOFAGASTA, BOLIVIA. 181 way allied to missionary work were more especially affectionate in their attentions to me. A Eussian fellow-passenger on the Itata had seen me in Iquique, where he has a wife and two children. The poor fellow was suffering a recovery from a drunken debauch a fine- looking, capable man. He took me into his room to tell me about his father and mother, now over eighty years old, who were daily praying for him, and writing him to come home and see them before they shall depart from this world. He exclaimed many times, " Oh, this accursed drink ! I shall never see my fader and mudder any more ! I shall go down to hell ! I can't quit ; I try, but the very first day I meet some old friend who says, * Come and take a drink.' He think me mean and stingy if I no drink o/ with him, and I go and drink." I talked to him, and prayed for him, and while on my knees he got under the bunk, with his face on the floor, and roared in the agony of de- spair. Drinking and drunkenness have swept away thousands of such men on this coast, and not one teetotal minister of the Gospel between California and Valparaiso, a distance 182 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. of six thousand miles. Dr. Trumbull and a few of his earnest men have lifted up the only total-abstinence flag that ever floated on this coast. Never a country known in greater need of Christian workers than this West Coast of South America. I have put a godly man and a stanch total abstainer in Callao, and by the grace of God we shall man this whole coast with them. Let us thank God, and unite in singing, "There's a better day a-coming." P. S. NEW YOEK, June 20th, , 1878. I have appointed Prof. A. T. Jeffreys, B.A., ac- cording to the foregoing agreement, to labor as teacher and preacher in Antofagasta. XI. THE LOira STAB EEPTIBLIC. THE lower half of their national flag is red. The inner square of the upper half contains the great star, on a ground of blue ; the re- mainder of the upper half of their flag is white. The tradition is cherished by our Chileno cousins, that their star belongs to the galaxy displayed on the national emblem of the " Great Eepublic." They are pleased thus to designate our nation, and to emulate us in all that pertains to good government and progress. They commenced under great disabilities; they have passed through many revolutionary struggles ; but for a long time past they have enjoyed peace and prosperity, and with a lib- eral provision for public instruction for the rising generation, increasing light, religious liberty, and an open Bible, they are bound to develop a grand nationality. But it cannot reasonably be expected that their growth can 183 184 OUE SOUTH AMEEICATf COUSINS. at any time be so rapid as that of any of our great States, even if the internal conditions essential to national growth were alike equal in both, for they have no such streams of foreign immigration as pour continually upon our shores. In a population of 2,319,266 only 26,635 are set down as foreigners, and one- third of these belong to other South American States. Seven hundred and seventy-eight are from North America. There are from Europe 13,147 males and 3,828 females, making a to- tal of Europeans amounting to 16,975, which are subdivided as follows : Great Britain, 3,261 ; Germany, 2,926 ; France, 2,425 ; Italy, 1,670; Spain, 1,029; Portugal, 279; Austria, 203, and a sprinkling from seventy - two smaller nationalities. It should be borne in mind, however, that by the laws of the com' monwealth all the children of foreigners born in Chile are born to citizenship, and hence are not noted in the national census as foreigners. Most of the aforesaid 4,000 European and North Ameiican women are mothers, and many of them have large families. Suppose they should each count an average of three chil- dren, we should then have 12,000 young people and children, who are not set down as foreign- THE LOXE STAR REPUBLIC. 185 ers ; and besides, from the 13,147 men, discount- ing from the census 3,000 as probable hus- bands of the aforesaid mothers, we have 10,000 men, from whom we may fairly presume there would be an offspring greatly exceeding 12,000 more, for a very large number of those men are married to native ladies, of every grade of society, from the highest to the lowest ; so that the whole number of foreigners put down in the census, multiplied by three, will give, approximately, the numerical strength of the foreign element in the population of the State. The total number of deaths in Chile for ten years, from 1865 to 1874, was 506,011. Of these 294,559 more than one-half were under seven years of age, and were landed safely in heaven. The increase of population in that period was fourteen per centum. There are in Chile, according to the census, one hundred and one women for every one hundred men. " In the besrinninff God made man male and O O female," and paired them in marriage union with each other, and through all the ages, and amono; all nations of men, He maintains His O original plan of bringing them into the world, male and female, in about equal numbers of 186 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAN cousnsrs. each sex. The British Government, in the sup- pression of the cruel infanticide of the Hin dus, by which millions of female babes have been put to death by their parents, orders a census of every suspected district yearly, and if the male largely exceed in number the female children, relying on this great law of Providence, she proceeds at once to make inquisition for blood, and executes summary justice upon the guilty. In some countries the equipoise of the two sexes is disturbed by emigration, but that fact rather confirms than O ' contradicts the primal law. God thus in ac- cordance with His written laws pertaining to His institution of marriage maintains a stand, ing protest against polygamy, adultery, and every infringement of His provision for the propagation and development of the human race. When we remember that w^e are "the offspring of God," and that " according to His purpose " our probation in this world is simply preparatory to a standing in the royal family of heaven, heirs of God and joint heirs with Jesus Christ " to an incorruptible inheritance," we need not wonder that God should reveal the laws and maintain the government essen- tial to a realization of His grand ideal of glori- THE LOXE STAB REPUBLIC. 187 fied men and women ; hence the dreadful con- demnation and curse entailed by a violation of God's laws pertaining to marriage, or the abuse of any resource essential to the purposes of His marriage institution. The wickedness of such o sinners is not that they possess a sexual appe- tite, which is common to the race, and within the limitations of His laws as legitimate as any other, but that they allow it to enslave the noble attributes of their higher " soul and spirit" nature, and, thus debased, proceed in defiance of God to destroy the essential founda- tions of good society, and defeat the realization of His grand purpose in giving life and being to man, and in continuing his existence in the world. As an index to the industries of Chile, I may mention that there are engaged in farm- ing, mining, and merchandise 570,599 men and 316,146 women. Professors in medicine and artists, 13,464 men and 5,550 women. Journalists and writers, 7,354 men. Sailors, 4,724 ; and soldiers, 6,838. As far back as 1850, under the administra- tion of President Mont, the government initi- ated, and has ever since been developing, a free- 188 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. school system of different grades, drawing its support from the national treasury, to tlie annual amount of about $800,000. Nothing worthy of note has been done to found English schools in Chile, except in Val- paraiso, the Athens of the Republic. Rev. Dr. Trumbull and his friends founded a good English school in that city about a quarter of a century ago, which under the able manage- ment of Prof. Mackay has done a great edu- cational work for the country. Many other schools there, also, have contributed to supply the growing demand of the people for educa- tion, among which is a good German school, under the direction of an able German Protest- ant minister. 27ie climate of Chile in excellence cannot be surpassed in any part of the world, and is equaled only by that of California, In agriculture, its productions of wheat, barley, oats, and other cereals and vegeta- bles correspond in quality with the same prod- ucts in California, but not quite equal in quantity per acre. Its fruits, too, in variety and quality, correspond with the fruits of the Golden State. The following table of Chilean exports, ex- THE LO1S T E STAB REPUBLIC. 189 tending from 1844 to 1875, will convey an idea of the variety and relative values of their prod- ucts. This is for the eye of the statistician, and hence the common reader may skip it, and pass on. CLASSIFICATION. VALUATION. Wheat, $61,830,650 Flour, 51,726,391 Barley, 16,421,646 Hides, 10,536,475 Wool, 10,099,6:!5 Timber, 5,261,749 Cattle, 3,321,784 Leather, 2,938,810 Jerk beef, 2,872,932 Beans, 2,646,581 Potatoes, 2,394,178 Nuts 2,091,742 Honey, 1,549,543 Hay, 1,263,062 Sheep, Mules, and Horses, . . 1,252,630 Suit Meat, 1,181,588 Linseed, 1,128,915 Bran, 1,106,516 Cheese, 1,067,927 Butter, 867,434 Lard, 808,430 Beeswax, 745,015 Common Grease, .... 702 080 Indian Corn, 501,597 CSscara Bark, 350,795 Total $184,668,108 190 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. The Cuscara bark is used for making a cleansing and medicinal wash for the skin. Mineral products in Chile, minus the large yield of gold, correspond with those of Cali- fornia, with such an excess of copper over any other country as to supply, until within a few years, two-thirds of the whole demand of the markets of the world. Her supply is exhaust- less, but the competition of Wisconsin and of South Australia has sadly depreciated its mar- ket value. The following table of the export of the mineral products of Chile, from 1844 to 1875, I insert simply for those specially interested in statistics : Bar Copper, $155,077,806 Copper, partly smelted, . . 84,515,195 Copper Ore, . Ha If -smelted Silver and Copper, Bar Silver, . Silver and Gold Coin, Silver Ore, . . . . 33,553,903 13,189,958 71,544,629 21,263,964 15,708,542 Gold Dust, 2,017,164 Stone Coal, 6,089,632 Total, .... $402,960,793 THE LONE STAR REPUBLIC. 191 The following table of Chilean imports from foreign countries will tell its own story : Sources of Suj>ply for 1875 and 1876. Increase. Diminu- tion for '76 England . . . France .... Germany . . . Argentina . . United States. Peru $15,702,808 7,814,811 4.162,138 2,727,262 2.133,443 2,410,637 786,804 329,879 492,776 283,015 198,615 98, 780 133,098 $12,625,728 7,503,498 3,729,651 3,097.736 2,626,055 2,480,323 740,444 733,855 478,320 453,168 254,311 115,464 96,548 62,613 61,307 55,522 28,218 25.080 6,238 $370,474 492,612 69,686 '403,976 '170.153 55,696 16,684 62,613 5,057 $3,077,080 311.313 432,487 46,360 14,456 36,550 '522,934 29,176 14,008 9,751 25,316 Belgium . . . Spain Brazil . . . . Italv Ecuador . . . Uruguay . . . Cent. America India ... Portugal . . . Bolivia .... Polynesia. . . Paraguay . . . China 56,250 578,456 57,394 39,088 15,989 25,316 90,941 Colombia . . . Undesignated. Total. . . . 116,962 26.021 $38, 137, 500 $35, 291, 041 $1,672,972 4, 519,431 Diminution in 1876 $2,846,459 So you may see that our cousins, in this salu- brious climate, enjoy the good things of other nations, and are willing to pay a fair price for them; but for a few years past, in common with the rest of mankind, they have been 192 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. spending too freely, and now they are curtail- ing expenses. May our fair cousins pardon me, if I suggest that they could help to relieve the exchequer of their husbands or fathers if they should put into their skirts a few yards less of foreign silks and satins, or else not fray them out by trailing them along the dusty streets ; and then it would be such a relief to pedestrians. To come within the sweep of a lot of the beautiful creatures of a dry day, why you might as well encounter a small whirlwind on a dusty plain. I am aware that ordinary readers do not relish statistics, and find them very indigesti- ble, but such will pardon me for setting before them another dish of the dry things, for the pleasure of those who like them. We are not bound to eat every thing that is set be- fore us. There is a story told of an Indian chief in Oregon who was invited to dine with a colonel in the United States Army, and took note of the number of courses served at the table of his host. Soon after he invited the colonel to dine with him. The first course was roast horse. After they had partaken pretty freely, the chief gave orders to his servant, saying : AEICA AND TACNA. 193 "Take him off." After the due interval he said : " Fetch him on again," and it was " take him off and fetch him on " till the full number of his white brother had been served, but it was roast horse all through ; not so with my courses of statistics. The following is an exhibit of Chilean ex- ports to foreign markets. Nations receiving in 1875 and 1876. Increase, Decrease for 1876. England . . . $21.033,490 $21,380,322 $346,832 France .... 3,006,850 4,449,866 1,443,016 . . . Peru .... 5,441,641 4,449,923 . . . $991,718 Bolivia .... 2,228,875 2,429,701 140,826 ... United States 417,816 1,085,602 667,786 ... Germany . . . 927,810 1,066,509 138,699 . . . Uruguay . . . 1,176,286 746,383 . . . 429,30 Argentina . . . 421,314 474,579 233,265 . . . Ecuador . . . 175,728 326,677 150,949 . . . Brazil .... 286,234 281,984 . . . 4,250 Cent. America 77,568 195,142 117,574 . . . Colombia . . . 54,286 109,171 54,885 Polinesia . . . 100,164 89.133 11,031 Portugal . . . 2,668 2,085 . . . 583 Cuba 1,300 1,300 Mexico .... 12,006 1,000 Yl,006 Australia . . . 19,966 . . . . . . 19,996 Belgium . . . 1,754 . . . . . . 1,754 Unnamed . . . 663,136 681,762 18,632 Total .... $35,927,592 $37,771,139 $3,335,145 $1,491,598 Increase for the year 1876, $1,843,547 Chile has a standing army of 3,000 men, with 194 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. a national guard of 25,000, and a navy of ten steamships, manned by 450 men. The Chilean statistics I have inserted may serve as an illus- trative sample of the international commercial relations of all the Republics of South America, and of the Empire of Brazil as well. It seems a pity that their commerce with " the Great Re- public " is so small, but it is owing to no fault of our cousins. Like everybody else, they have to buy and sell where they can do the best for themselves ; but they are anxious for a closer alliance with us, and we should appre- ciate and love them more than we have hith- erto done. May the Lord cause His face to shine upon them, and bless them. xn. CALDEKA. Tins is a town of twelve hundred in- habitants, of whom 157 are English, 27 North Americans, and 76 Germans. It is the port of entry for a vast silver-mining district. Its commercial importance may be perceived by a glance at the footings of a single column of her statistics. Total of sail vessels that cleared from this port in 1876 were 154, with an aggregate tonnage 61,783 ; steamers 298, with a tonnage 306,941. Only about half the sail vessels were destined to foreign ports. The same steamers, about sixty in number, touch here many times in the year. J. C. Morong, Esq., the American Consul at Caldera, a prominent merchant of the town, is a gentleman worthy of a hundred times more commercial business than our marine service has ever furnished him. I found a very hospi- table home at his house during my brief so- journ in Caldera. 195 196 CUE SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. There were more English-speaking people here a quarter of a century ago than now, but they have never had English preaching, except once in a few years a preacher happened to spend a Sabbath in passing. Naturally enough, the most of the people have lost nearly all relish for such things, but are nevertheless kindly disposed toward good men, and would be glad to have an English school. In consultation with Mr. Morong, Mr. Jacques, manager of the railway works of Caldera, and Mr. Jack, the British Consul for that port, it was agreed that the Consul should issue a circular, calling a meeting of the leading citizens for that night, Friday, the 8th of February. Mr. Jack kindly introduced me to most of the English-speaking families, and we tried to prepare their minds for the work contemplated. About fifteen or more attended the meeting, which was held in the parlor of a beer saloon, for the reason, it was alleged, that the people would be more likely to assemble there than in a private family parlor. The landlord, of course, was very attentive and kind. No one patronized his bar while I remained, but what they did in gratitude for his kindness after I left, I can- not say. I only know that the ardor I had CALDEEA. 197 succeeded in kindling in some hearts for the reception of a man of God to teach their chil- ren and preach to the people, had abated con- siderably by the next morning. I, however, visited a few families, and was teaching some children to sing, and could have turned the tide that day and made a success, but receiving a letter of invitation from Mr. John Rosser and Richard Tonkin to spend the Sabbath in Copiapo, I thought it my duty to take the train that morning in response to their call. A Rev. Mr. Sayre had served the Copiapo people for a year or two, but went to America about two years since, so I would not go to that field till I could learn certainly that Mr. Sayre did not intend to return to it, and that the people were not in negotiation for any other minister. So, on arrival, I got Mr. Morong to write Mr. Rosser, and I wrote Mr. Tonkin. Their prompt answer was that the coast was all clear, and they were anxious to have me visit them. I had offered my services for Sabbath in Caldera at our meeting last night, but no motion was made for or against my preaching to them, which I should have taken the responsibility of doing in some shape, had I not received this call to Copiapo. So the 198 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSIXS. people of Caldera were left to their reflections till the following Wednesday A.M., wlieu I re- turned from Copiapo. Having to take steamer that afternoon for Valparaiso, I had but a few hours to spend with them. I w T as very sorry, for the dear neglected people of Caldera need help, and it is a hopeful field. There would be no difficulty in raising a school of thirty scholars of the English-speaking, and it was asserted confidently by old residents that the better class natives would patronize it largely. Accompanied by an earnest railway engineer, I spent iny few remaining hours in calling on the people for their pledges in subscription to bring out a man, and nearly the amount re- quired was put down on our paper. So I left the work in the hands of my earnest engineer. A few weeks later, on my return north, I made a hasty visit ashore while our ship was discharging Caldera freights, and found that they had obtained pledges sufficient to bring out a single man, and that a number of native families wished to share in the enterprise, but specially desired a female teacher for their daughters. The general conclusion then was that anything short of a man and his wife, both competent teachers, would not fill the CALDEEA. 199 bill. I hope they will succeed, but in attempt- ing too much at once, they may fail in that which is quite practicable. Their desire, how- ever, is not in excess of their need, nor of the resources of the school to support a man and his wife adequately, being first-class teach- ers ; and I don't propose nor intend to send any who are not first-class ; but the only hitch is the want of a small amount of ready money to pay their passage hither. P. S. NEW YOEK, June 21, 1878. Have not yet heard from Caldera, but have already ordered school furniture for that with the rest of the places, and expect to send them teachers before the year is out, if the Lord will have it so, and I believe that to be His purpose. xm. COPIAPO. FOE more tlian a quarter of a century this has been the central resort of the silver miners and traders, attracted to this region by the rich silver mines in this district. It has a population of about 20,000, of whom there are 157 English, 27 North American, and 76 Ger- mans. There are in this town and vicinity many Cornish miners, as indeed in the min- ing region of this and all other countries. A very large proportion of these are tradition- ally Wesleyans. Not many of them show signs of spiritual life now. A fossil will re- main the same in any country. It is a dead, unfeeling thing, and can't appreciate moisture, nutrition, and cultivation, so essential to life. But a Cornish Christian has a religion of sap and joyous emotion. He must assemble with the saints, and with them sing and shout the 200 COPIAPO. 201 praises of God. He must sit " under the drop- pings of the sanctuary," and be well watered, or he will wither and die. " Planted by the rivers of water, he is an evergreen ; will bring * forth his fruit in his season,' and abide for- ever." But plant such a man down in this great "Atacama desert," which has not been watered since the days of Noah, and he dies. If ministers of God had come with them, as they should have done, and opened the wells of salvation along this coast, we should now behold everywhere streams in the desert and the country, foreign and native alike, set with fruitful trees of righteousness planted by the Lord ; too much " red tape " binds unduly the home church organizations. We have this vision verified in a small de- gree here in Copiapo. A few years ago an earnest Cornish blacksmith by the name of Uhren went to work and got his people to- gether, sang to them the hymns they used to hear in Gwenep pit, and preached the Gos- pel to them. Many were revived, a Sunday- school was commenced, and although Brother Uhren went away to California years ago, regu- lar preaching services and the Sunday-school have been kept up ever since. To be sure, two 9* 202 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSESTS. missionaries in succession have spent a few years here since this work was commenced, affording them some help, but devoting their time principally to the natives. But the Cornish work, conducted by laymen before the missionaries came and went, has kept steadily on its way. John Rosser, Richard Tonkin, and Thomas Mitchell are the present leaders of the movement. On the invitation of Bros. Tonkin and Rosser I came on Saturday by rail, forty miles, from Caldera to Copiapo, and remained three days. On Sabbath A. M. and night I preached to the people, and addressed the Sunday-school of about thirty in the afternoon. On each occa- sion their room for worship was crowded inside with. English people and a sprinkling of natives, with a greater crowd of natives about the doors and windows. After preaching in the evening we had a meeting to consider the question of having me send them a minister. Mining here is very dull now, and the people, both in numbers and ability, have been reduced by one-half within a few years, and hence they have only half the ability for assuming such a responsibility as they formerly had. The same is true all along the coast. But the need of COPIAPO. 203 the people and their desires are such that they entered into an agreement to raise the funds requisite, and requested me to send two teachers, a man and his wife, to found a male and female school, the man to be their pastor as well. It is a very heavy lift for them, but all together they can do it. Copiapo is one of the principal towns of the province of Atacama. The whole province contains a population of 69,000 natives, 547 English, and 52 Americans. The desert of Atacama extends far into Bolivia and Peru. Copiapo has a small river from the mountains passing through it, hence surrounded by farms, orchards, vineyards, ornamental shrubbery and flowers. It is indeed an oasis literally, as it is in religious interest and organization. It has a large and beautiful plaza, densely shaded with pepper-trees, not a useful variety of pepper, but grandly suited to the purpose for which it is used. A plaza with a fountain, shrubbery, and flowers is an essential in the make-up of a South American town. Even in Antofagasta, where water costs seven cents per gallon, they have their fountain and shrubbery and floral garden. XIV. COQUTMBO. THIS is the next port south of Caldera, and the principal commercial center of the province of Coquirnbo. The population of the province is officially put down at 58,000, over 800 of whom are English. The city of Coquimbo contains 12,650 inhabitants; 23 are set down as North Americans, and 416 as English. The city of Serena, nine miles distant, has a population of 29,000 thousand. Ovalle, forty miles away by railroad, has 4,000. There are many Cornish and Welsh miners in this province. Nearly all these eight hundred for- eigners speak the Spanish language, and this is the native language of their children born in this country a body of agency sufficient to re- flect the light of a pure Gospel to all the native denizens of this province, if they themselves were saved and endowed with the pentecostal power of the Holy Spirit. 204 COQUIMBO. 205 The value of exports from Coquimbo for 1876 aggregates the amount of $15,989,263. lu the same time there were cleared from this port 479 sail vessels, with a total regis- try of 93,186 tons; steamers, 498, tonnage, 498,360. These figures represent both the foreign and coast trade. Many of the same vessels on the coast trade, especially the steam- ers, have been cleared many times during the year. I have simply selected from elaborate tables of statistics a few index facts to give an idea of the importance of Coquimbo as a cen- ter for evangelistic work. About one hundred and sixty-nine Welsh and Cornish people, besides a few natives, live at Guayacan, nearly two miles distant from Coquimbo. Thomas Francis, the manager of the exten- sive copper smelting works there, is also a sort of bishop of the town, and has for many years kept up religious services, and kept up also among the people the habit of a regular attend- ance at the house of the Lord. I addressed his large Sundaj^-school on Sabbath P.M., the 24th of March, and preached in his chapel that night. The place was crowded with attentive hear- ers. They have had a minister for about four 206 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. years past Rev. Mr. Jones, a Welsh Pres- byterian. He taught school week-days and preached on the Sabbath the only English- speaking minister for years past between Valparaiso and Callao, a distance of 1,500 miles. * Not wishing in any way to interfere with this dear brother's work, I did not expect to at- tempt anything, even in Coquimbo, and hence, on my southward voyage, did not tarry here. But on my return north, Brother Jones met me at the ship, and begged me to do what I could for Coquimbo, as he had arranged to sail for England the 26th of April. So I stopped a couple of days, and made arrangements with the leading people of Co- quimbo to supply them with a minister of the Gospel, to devote his whole time to preaching and pastoral work for that city and the towns adjacent. The funds for passage, and over $1,000 toward his support, were subscribed before I left, and a committee organized to pro- ceed with the work. Captain Grierson, English and American Consul, gave me valuable help. My home was in the family of Mr. Robert John. I found the people very home-like and kind, COQUIMBO. 207 and was sony to part with them, but expect, the Lord willing, to see them again. A sad occurrence cast gloom over the minds of the people during my short sojourn with them. A well-known and much - respected watchmaker and jeweler, by the name of Wil- liams, was traveling on horseback in the night, near Serena City, where he lived, and was found dead by the roadside in the morning, his head badly bruised. It was supposed that he was thrown from his horse. He leaves a wife and eight or nine children to mourn his loss. He belonged to the fraternity of Freemasons. About one hundred and fifty persons attended his funeral; a large number of them were natives belonging to the order. Rev. Mr. Jones read a funeral service, followed by the Ma- sonic funeral ceremonies. One English and two native gentlemen delivered addresses on the occasion. The ceremony was closed by a native, whose last utterance was, " Adios, her- niano, Weelyams, adios." The Freemasons have lodges in all towns of note on this coast, among which are many native lodges, though interdicted by their pa- dres. 208 OUE SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. P. S. NEW YOEK, June 6th. Passage money has been duly forwarded by the Sec- retary of our Committee, Thomas J. W. Millie, Esq.; and I have appointed Rev. J. "W. Hig- gins, B.A., as pastor of Coquimbo and neigh- boring cities. He will, D. V., set sail from this city for his important field of labor on the 29th instant. XV. VALPAEAISO. THIS is the great commercial emporium of Chile. It is a city set on more than " seven hills " and precipitous bluffs facing the ocean. The hills are in semi-circular position, corre- sponding with the curve of the bay. The city has but two or three level streets ; but these are furnished with "lower and upper deck" street cars, on which we can traverse its whole length. This level land, on which stand all the public buildings and most of the business houses, was mainly recovered from the sea. Many years ago, as I was told here on my way to Cali- fornia, the ocean made a desperate effort to repossess its old claims. It sent out a tre- mendous tidal wave, which carried a number of ships into this part of the city. They were laid up high and dry, but the great waters retired, and our cousins have held an undis- puted right to the soil ever since. The great 209 210 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. tidal waves of 1868 and of 1877, which wrought such devastation in Peru, did not trouble this city ; and the great blocks of two and three story warehouses and stores, all along these level streets, seem to be indif- ferent alike to tidal waves and earthquakes. Most of the dwellings and the school-houses are located on the hills, many of them on narrow terraces dug out irregularly along the brow of the precipitous bluffs. We reach these partly by ascending steep zigzag paths, and partly by climbing long nights of stone steps. A night view of the city from the harbor, when all the dwellings on these cir- cling hills are lighted with gas or kerosene, is exquisitely beautiful. By previous invitation, I enjoyed a welcome happy home at the residence of Rev. D. Trum- bull, D.D. The Doctor and his accomplished lady and family received and treated me as a brother beloved, and laid me under lasting obligations by their great kindness. When I preached for Dr. Trumbull in this city, nearly thirty years ago, he was an unmarried, ruddy, youthful-looking man, residing in the family of Mr. Wheelwright, the founder of the P. S. N. Co. I remember my surprise at that time VALPARAISO. 211 when Mr. Wheelwright told me of the number and tonnage of the steamships which had for several years been plying regularly from this city along the coast for 3,000 miles to Panama. Dr. Tranibull, though venerable in years, of rich experience, and grand achievement as a Christian minister, is still young in appearance, and sprightly as a college Freshman. His wife, who in abounding works of mercy has been climbing these hills for more than a quarter of a century, has become very corpu- lent, but is unceasing in trying to make every- body about her happy, and hence seems al- ways to walk in the bright sunlight of happi- ness herself. They have four daughters, with one adopted, making five, and they treat all alike. Two of their daughters and their two sons are receiving their education in New Haven, Connecticut. The parents are giving a liberal education to their children with the hope that they will use it all for God, in the further develop- ment of His work in the Republic of Chile. Their adopted daughter is married to a most loving Christian gentleman, Mr. Gomien. The Doctor, in addition to all his varied educational and pastoral work, is editor and publisher of a 212 OUE SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. monthly periodical, a royal octavo of sixteen pages The Record ; also a similar one in the Spanish language ThePiedra. Both are gra- tuitously circulated, but are supported by the voluntary donations of friends. The history of Dr. Truinbull's years of toil here is nearly iden- tical with the history of the reformed type of Christianity in Chile. At an annual meeting of the Union Church Society, held on the 31st of last October, Dr. Trumbull gave an historical summary of the work in connection with his Union Church, which I copy from the Record of November 16, 1877: " The society has passed to a corporate, chartered form. It has been recognized by the Supreme Government and for the first time legalized. It will be a fitting occasion for re- cording some of the more salient points of our history. "In 1844 a request was forwarded to New York that a minister might come to this city to gather a congregation of English and Ameri- can residents and seafaring men. The Eng- lish Consular Chaplaincy had been estab- lished nine years previous. With a hope of benefiting foreigners, as well as of ultimately VALPARAISO. 213 reaching by such means the native population, a society called the Foreign Evangelical took up this request, offering their commission just as I was terminating my studies in preparation for the ministry. I had asked to be guided in selecting a field of Christian effort, and con- sidered the indication providential. Being ordained for the ministry in Valparaiso in June, 1845, I sailed in August, and arrived here on the 25th of December, Christmas Day. " The prospect was anything but encourag- ing. It was impossible for six months to se- cure a room for a chapel, until at last we ob- tained a dark and diminutive bodega in the Quebrada Almendro. At the end of a month, however, the dining-room of the Chile Hotel was offered, which was commodious for an audience of a hundred. At the ,end of a year orders came from the owners in Santiago to vacate the place on religious grounds. Ere another loca- tion could be had months elapsed, but we were allowed to remain, until at last we were settled for six or seven years at 24 Calle Aduana. In 1854, returning to the Quebrada and finding the bodesra too strait for the conorefration, we O o O resolved to subscribe funds to buy land and 214 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. build. The task seemed herculean, first to obtain the means, and next to get permission. The result, however, was that in April, 1856, the church we now call the old one that sold to the Germans was dedicated to the worship of God, the first Protestant church that was ever erected on the West Coast of Spanish America, from California to Cape Horn. We had to erect a board fence twelve feet high in front of it. " When the land was purchased, a question arose as to how the title should be vested ; and a legal friend (Dr. Alberdi) advised nam- ing as trustees, or fideicomisarios, the British and American Consuls and others. In 1869 that building had become too small, and the present edifice in Calle San Juan de Dios was provided. "The land of that first church built in 1855 cost $7,500, and the edifice $8,000; of this the American Seamen's Friend Society gave $1,000, and the rest was given here. The Society immediately became self-supporting. " In 1864 the Union Hall was provided for Sunday-school and Union meetings, at a cost of 813,000. " Four years later, in 1868, the assistance of VALPARAISO. 215, the Rev. Mr. Guy was secured as co-pastor, until his decease, which occurred five years later, in 1873. "The present church, built in 1869, cost for land $26,000, and for the building $31,000. On this day our indebtedness is $6,000. " While we may claim the credit of having been the first to build and occupy a church in opposition to an intolerant law of the republic, the Anglican congregation was formed first. It has also recently been in advance of us in active and successful measures to secure incor- poration. In securing our charter, we had little to do beyond adapting their statutes to our rules and methods. The government in Santiago, without suggesting a single altera- tion, passed the statutes as they were pre- sented. " At the close of thirty-two years it may be added that, while we have here assembled, gathered from different portions of the earth, and differing nationally as well as denomination- ally, yet a remarkable measure of harmony has characterized our history. And if the past has not Droved a failure, there is no reason to ap- prehend a less measure of success in the future. The principles of our fathers have been crowned 216 OUE SOUT1I AMERICAN COUSINS. with good results during a score and a half of years, and they require nothing but energy and consistency on our part to have them serve the same purpose for a century. AVe personally may pass away, but others will rise up to take our places. " Another peculiarity of this congregation has been the frequency of the changes taking place in it. There may not be ten persons connected with it to-day who belonged to it thirty years ago. Often, as soon as persons have come to be interested, they have moved away. Although this has in it a measure of discour- agement, still it has an advantage ; the influ- ence of the church is felt by a larger number than could be the case in a more stationary community. I judge that 2,500 persons have been connected with the congregation from the first day until now, 600 belonging to it at the present time ; while the number of com- municants during the same period will have ranged between 400 and 500 : to-day 150 are upon the roll. From these facts the impor- tance of our enterprise is evident to all. This society occupies a position that can be made one of widely extending influence. It stands O at a point where there is an ebb and flow VALPARAISO. 217 People coine and depart. It is for us to cast our bread oft times upon the waters ; we shall find it after many days." I will here insert an additional chapter of history from the pen of Dr. Trumbull : THE EPISCOPAL CHURCH. " Having given in the last number of the Record a notice of the growth of the Union congregation from its first besnnninsf we have O C O O 7 been requested to furnish some items bearing on the more general subject of the develop- ment here of the Protestant interest, and take up the pen now to answer this friendly sug- gestion. "In 1823 the Protestant Cemetery was pro- vided. Land was then bought and inclosed. There were at the period a larger number of Protestants resident than one might have sup- posed. In that year twenty-four subscribers gave $1,138 for the object ; of these subscrip- tions, two only were from commercial firms. "In 1823 an attempt was made by two Con- gregational missionaries from Boston, Rev. Messrs. Parvin and Brigham, to inaugurate evangelical work here under the American 10 218 OUK SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. Board, but for some unfortunate reason they became disheartened and relinquished the task as impossible or else desperate within a year or two. "In 1825 a Mr. Kendall is reported to have conducted the Anglican worship at the house of the British Consul ; for how long time is not quite certain, but the deceased Mrs. Fro- mont said that when she arrived here, in 1828, her husband rented the house which Mr. Kendall had just vacated on leaving the coun- try. " After that Mr. Sewell, a merchant, used to read prayers at a private house on the Cerro Alegre, until 1837, when the Rev. John Row- landson, private tutor in the family of the late Richard Price, Esq., being a presbyter of the Church of England, was requested to commence regularly the services of the Church of Eng- land. His term of pastorate seems to have been about two years. Existing records show a marriage, No. 1, solemnized by him, July 5th, 1838, and another, No. 7, June 20th, 1839 ; but none later. The first baptism on rec- ord by Mr. R. is dated December 17th, 1837, and the last June 23d, 1839. Twenty baptisms then are entered, nineteen of them administered VALPAEAISO. 219 by the Eev. Alexander Hy. Small, B. D., chap- lain of H.B.M.S. President, and one by Hy. W. Rouse, Esq., H.B.M.S. Consul; ranging from July 28th, 1839, to April 23d, 1841. "At that period the Rev. William Arm- strong came to Valparaiso ; he remained ten years. Chilian ladies, married with English- men during his time, attempted to attend ser- vice in the English Church, and were notified by the authorities that it could not be per- mitted. " The service was held in a chapel far up on the Cerro Alegre, in a hall attached to a private residence. The Union congregation, called o o / then at first the Free Chapel, was gathered in 1846, likewise in a private dwelling. The law did not allow the public worship of dissenters. "When Mr. Armstrong left in April, 1852, the Rev. Benjamin Hill succeeded him until April, 1856, when the Rev. Richard Dennett entered on the duty as chaplain, performing it (save an interval of nine months, during which the Rev. John Buncher served as his substitute in 1867) until the end of 1869. The Rev. Wm. H. Lloyd, the present incumbent, became pastor in 1870. During his absence the Rev. W. B. Keer officiates. 220 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. "In 1858 the present English church was erected. It drew the angry fire of the Arch- bishop in Santiago, who protested to the gov- ernment against the infraction of the Constitu- tion ; his friends of the laity petitioning the President to have the edifice l razed from the surface of the republic which it dishonored.' This firing was perfectly harmless. It had no effect, unless it were by recoil, for in 1865 the article of the Constitution on which the prel- ate sought to impale the administration was explained away, and so interpreted as to allow Protestants to have as many churches for public worship as they might choose. "From this historic sketch one or two valu- able points merit attention : " 1. The first form of religious liberty that was obtained in this country for those not Roman Catholics was connected with the burial of the dead. That amount of freedom had to be granted from the moment when Spanish restrictions were removed and Prot- estants allowed and invited to come hither to reside. " 2. The first effective attempt to care for the religious welfare of foreign Protestants living in this city was made by adherents of VALPARAISO. 221 the Church of England. Parliament at that period aided by law in the support of Anglican chaplains in foreign parts, and by that benign provision helped pious men to care for Scots- men, Englishmen, Germans, and Americans who were scattered as sheep without a shep- herd on this coast. " 3. The history of the Protestant enterprise in this part of the world shows that one success- ful method of securing religious freedom has been to go forward and assert it. By taking it, Protestants have secured it. Burials, bap- tisms, marriages, and gatherings for worship in chapels and churches may all have been illegal enough at one time, because in dissent from the majority of the inhabitants of Chile ; but as the number of persons claiming these rights has augmented, and through courage, become respectable, they have come to be respected, until finally public opinion and national legis- lation are at one in guaranteeing religious liberty to all. " There is only one point remaining in this connection now to the dishonor of the law- makers of Chile, and the annoyance of the people, and that is the disability laid, in obedience to the demands of the Roman 222 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. Church, on men and women about contracting lawful marriages when not of the same creed. Let this be provided for, and the country will, legally at least, be free." The disability is that if one party is a Roman Catholic, the other must become one also, unless by special permission of the Pope, which is expensive, and involves the obligation of training the children to be Roman Catholics. Even when both parties are Protestants they can only be legally married by a Roman Catholic priest. The " Episcopal Church," thus early planted in Valparaiso, was not by the Protestant Epis- copal Church of the United States, but by the Mother the Established Church of England, which, though suffering from fossilization, and from internal strifes and divisions, excels all other churches in her arrangements for ap- pointing ministers to needy outposts of the earth. The Methodist Episcopal Church, in common with others, has two methods of ex- tending her work into new fields : the one is a consecutive advance of the regularly organ- ized work; remote, needy fields, as in South India and in South America, are entirely be- yond the radius of this method : the other is VALPARAISO. 223 by order of the "Mission Committee;" but the neglected people of those remote coasts are neither paupers nor heathens, and hence don't come within the jurisdiction of the Committee on Foreign Missions. But the "Church of England" never seems to have any difficulty in appointing a clergyman to any place on this planet, where his services are called for ; and until very recently the government made lib- eral appropriations of money to subsidize any subscription of funds from any part of the world accompanied by a call for a minister. Hence, in nearly all parts of the earth, where there is an English community sufficient to support a blacksmith shop and keep up a post- office, we will find a clergyman of this Church, doing good in his way, though not generally very spiritual, as seen from our standpoint, and will by all possible means preclude from his field any minister who represents what he is pleased to call " a sect." Among many charitable institutions in this city, both of English and German resident*, I will only insert a notice of one for the distri- bution of the Holy Scriptures and other relig- ious books. Their agent, Mr. Miiller, is a Ger- man, and was converted to God in his "Fader- 224 OCR SOUTH AMEEICAX COUSIN'S. land," through the agency of the founder of Methodism in that land, Mr. Jacoby. Bro. Mtiller speaks English and Spanish fluently, and is an earnest Christian worker. The fol- lowing notice will convey an idea of what is being done to scatter leaves from the tree of life for the healing of the nation : BEBLE SOCIETY. The Valparaiso Bible Society has just cele- brated its seventeenth annual meeting. The total sale of Scriptures during the year termi- nating January 31st, 1878, has been upward of 1,670 copies. Of these more than 200 have been Spanish Bibles, 550 Spanish Testaments, and 593 Gospels. English and German, French and Swedish Scriptures have also been circu- lated through its agency. Respecting other volumes, the aim is to dis- tribute such as may serve to call attention to the Holy Scriptures, or to explain and enforce the truths revealed in them. The total distri- bution of books, not including the Scriptures, has been upward of 3,600. Of these the larger portion have been books in English, something more than 1,800 in all ; though upward of 1,500 Spanish books have been circulated. Con- VALPARAISO. 225 siclering how few suitable volumes have been published in Spanish, adapted to the use and aims of the society, this is not an unsatisfac- tory account. Of German Scriptures we have to notice sale of 45 copies ; of volumes in German, 177. The total sales during the twelve months, in money value, have amounted to upward of 83,000. The subscriptions for the year have been 82,500. Valparaiso contains a population of about 80,000. It is the great commercial emporium of Chile. The number of sailing vessels en- tered in this port for the year 1876 was 784 ; and of steamers, 449, representing an aggre- gate capacity of 815,139 tons. It should be observed that many of the same vessels, espe- cially of the steamships, are entered a number of times during the year. The number of passengers arriving in this port during the year 1876 was 20,278; depart- ures, 17,849, showing a gain of 2,429. Arrivals in 1877 were 19,317; departures, 15,133; ex- cess of arrivals, 4,186. 10* XV. TALCAHUANA. THIS noted whale - fishing station is 240 miles south of Valparaiso. I arrived on Friday, the 22d of February. The whale-catching business here, as every- where else, has greatly diminished, though some are still taken in these waters, and I saw a few the day before my arrival here that have not been caught yet, but they are scarce and hard to catch ; and now that we can strike rivers of oil at home by boring a hole in the ground, the grand old business of New Bedford is nearly played out. A few American families still reside here, prominent among whom are J. H. Trunibull, M.D., brother of Kev. D. Trunibull, D.D. ; the widow Crosby, from Ohio, and her son Wm. Crosby, who is the American Consul for this port ; S. J. Stanton, and John F. Van Ingen, and others who are merchants. I presented a 226 TALCAHUAXA. 227 letter to Mr. Van Ingen from Eev. Dr. Swaney, and lie entertained me most cordially as his guest during my sojourn. He is my right- hand man as collector and secretary of the school board we organized in Talcahuana. Dr. Trumbull is our most liberal patron, but Mr. Van Ingen is the more available for the hard work requisite for such an undertaking. Rev. Dr. Swaney resided several years in this town, and gathered a fellowship band of about a dozen. They are scattered now, but so far as I could learn they cherish the mem- ory of their departed pastor, and are trusting in the Saviour. One of them, Mrs. Berry, died in the Lord a year ago. I met three of them, one of whom is a native, who wept as I talked to him about Jesus and his love. Another was an old American ship -master whom Bro. Swaney had, by the mercy of God, hauled up from the gutter when he was a poor stranded inebriate. My host told me about the reformation and steadfast life of the old captain. . One morning, walking along the beach, I saw a sober-looking old skipper, and said, " Good -morning, sir." " Good-morning." 228 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSIXS. " Have you lived long in this port ? " "Yes, sir, over twenty years." " I suppose you knew Mr. Swaney ? " " Yes, indeed I did. He came to me when I was nearly dead. I was run down with drink, and given up by the doctor to die. But I had a dream some time before that I was drowning in the bay. The surf was very high. I made many desperate efforts to reach the shore, but was swept back by the receding sea. Finally, when I was sinking into hell, a great wave earned me to the land, and some one lent a hand, and I was saved ; so I knew froAn that dream that I would not die at that time, and my hope helped me to live, when everybody thought I ought to die. Then Dr. Swaney came and told me about Jesus Christ, the Friend and Saviour of sin- ners. I was instructed by my parents when a child, but had apparently forgotten all these most important things. So I put my case wholly into the hands of Jesus, and he cured me, soul and body, and he has kept me ever since. Dr. Swaney left soon after. I was very sorry. I wonder that he has never written me." " Have you no religious associates ? " TALC All U AX A. 229 " No, I have nobody to tell my feelings to but Jesus. I am talking to the captains and sailors here every day ; I tell them about this great salvation, and give them some books to read, and pray for them. I do not see the fruit of it, but Jesus tells me to do it, and I know it will do good to some of them. The Bible is my constant study, and Jesus is my constant companion. Dr. Swaney gave me a Bible. I have read the Old Testament through four times in the four years since he left, and have read the New Testament through forty-six times. It is more and more interesting every time I read it, and God explains it to me in dreams. When I am on shore I go to church every Sunday, and worship God with the na- tives. I talk to many of them about Jesus, and they seem glad to learn these things. I am not a Roman Catholic, but there is no other worship here, since Mr. Swaney left, and I never debate with them, and God blesses me in talking to them and in worshiping with them." I spent two pleasant hours with him, hear- ing his tales of varied experience and extraor- dinary dreams, and opening to his thirsty heart the fountains of Scripture truth. This 230 OUR SOUTH AMERICAN COUSINS. is the kind of men whom the Holy Spirit teaches by " dreams " persons not quite able to grasp the statement and spiritual mean- ing of God's truth, nor to discern the lead- ings of his Providence, and no man to explain them. One night, during my brief sojourn in Talcahuana, I preached twice in the fleet. The first service was in the ship commanded by Captain Landsay, who is a Christian man, and regularly on the Sabbath conducts services with his men. Our meeting was so interesting that the whole ship's company of officers and men accompanied me to the next service, which was on the vessel of another noble Christian gentleman, Captain Jeffreys. At the close of each service I stated that I purposed to send a 2X>od man to Talcahuana to found a school, O / and hoped that he might also hold informal services for the seamen in this port, and that they might assist in raising a fund for his passage from New York, if they so desired. Without any begging beyond the simple state- ment of the case, they cheerfully subscribed fifty - two dollars at the two services. Dr. Swaney's old captain was with us at those services, and professed to be greatly refreshed. TALCAHUANA. 231 Mr. Van Ingen, who also was with us, was astonished at the lively interest manifested by the seamen in the sendees. Said he : "I once went with a seamen's preacher to visit some ships, and the preacher, after talking a few minutes with the officers, said in the hearing of the common sailors, "If any of the men here are under serious concern about their souls, and wish to have a conversation with me, I shall be glad to talk to them.' Of course no one was dis- posed to confess there that he was in distress about his soul, and the visit of the preacher did not amount to much, so it seemed to me." I find wherever there has been any earnest Christian work done on this coast, some life and verdure remain. Dr. Swaney is held in grateful remembrance here by hundreds of people. He is a superior preacher, and a sympathizing, winning man of God. I think, however, he has made three great mistakes in his ministerial life : 1st, when he left Cali- fornia in 1853, whither he had been sent by the Missionary Society of the M. E. Church ; 2d, when he left Callao, about 1860 ; and 3d, when he left this coast again about four years ago. I don't know the standpoint from which 232 CUE SOUTH AMERICAN COUSIXS. he viewed these fields ; that he acted con- scientiously in leaving, and that he did good whither he went, I have not a doubt, but the killing need of the fields he left without supply is what strikes me. When a man of God is put into a most difficult unpromising field of labor, he should stick to it till he works out a grand self-sustaining success, or till he can see a better man for the work put in his place. Talcahuana is the sea terminus of the "Talcahuana, Conception and Santiago E ail- road," running a distance of 365 miles, through the great agricultural valleys of Chile, from Talcahuana to Santiago. The railway works are located at Concepcion, and most of the commercial business of this port is transacted in that city, which is ten miles inland. The following partial exhibit will convey an idea of the commerce of this port : The num- ber of sail vessels clearing the customs here in 1876, coasting vessels and foreign, was 182, with a tonnage of 38,428. Steamers, 163, con- taining an aggregate registry of 134,086 tons. Value of exports for 1876 $8,613,164. We cannot hope for a large number of Eng- lish - speaking scholars in our contemplated school in Talcahuana, but hope to get many TALCAIIUANA. 233 natives. One native gentleman gave us fifty dollars to help initiate it, and it is believed many of the higher-class natives will patronize it. It is a very needy field, which must grow into great importance, commanding, as it does, such superior transportation facilities both by sea and land. P. S. JTT^TE llth. Mr. Van Ingen has duly forwarded the passage funds, and I have ap- pointed a thoroughly competent man, Prof. Haylett, B. A., to found the school in Talca- huana. God bless the teacher, his pupils, and his patrons ! XVI. CONCEPCIOX. THIS is a neat, compact town of about 20,000 inhabitants. I presented letters to William L , Esq., a very influential resident of this city. He and his accomplished lady entertained me cordially. They emigrated from the city of London to this coast about thirty years ago. Their children, all except one daughter, have received their education in England. They could hardly consent to part so long with their last, and at once expressed a great desire for a good English school, requiring both a male and a female teacher. Previous abortive at- tempts, however, cast dark shadows over our path. Moreover many of their best citizens had not returned from their summer " watering- places," and all the merchants were absorbed in the wheat trade. Owing to a partial failure of the wheat crop in California, and a greater failure in North Chile, flour had risen to $13 234 CCXXCEPCIOX. 235 per barrel, and hence a great rush in the wheat market. The following Sabbath, the 24th of Febru- ary, offered the only apparent opportunity of finding the business men at leisure, and even then they would most likely be off on tours of recreation. So I had my subscription-book ready, proposing to bring out two teachers a man and his wife. I depended on Mr. L to introduce me to the people. Noonday came, and he was not available. A grand specimen of an old- time London gentleman, overworked with ex- cessive business as a merchant, and not hope- ful of my success, he seemed reluctant to " come to the scratch." But soon after noon he returned to his house where I was waiting, and with him came Henry Bunster, Esq., to whom I had letters also. Bunster was my providential man for that moment, and had come sixty miles from his home, on other busi- ness, to be sure, but the Lord arranged to have him help me. I gave him my letters, and he at once recognized me. He was an old Cali- fornian, and had heard me preach on the plaza in San Francisco many times, and could never forget the scenes of those pioneer days 236 OUR SOUTH AMEEICAN COUSINS. in the history of San Francisco. I showed him nay book, and he at once put down his name for $50. That struck a spark of hope in the heart of nay kind host, and in ten minutes we were off to see what could be done. We called first on the " Inteudente"- the Mayor a noble native gentleman, and he unhesitatingly signed his name for $50. Several leading native gentlemen subscribed each $50, and we should have easily raised $1,000, the amount we asked to bring out the teachers, and initiate the school work, but most of the men were absent. Mine host could not command much more time for me, and through the ensuing week I could do but little, except to return to Talca- huana and raise nearly $400 and organize a school board there. The next Sabbath, the only day we could get at the business men in Concepcion, John Slater, Esq., one of the American railway kings of the country, helped me, and by Monday morning our list exceeded $800. Many liber- al men being absent, it was considered a sure thing. I appointed a small committee of three to proceed with the preparatory work. This is a country of plentiful rains, verdant COXCEPCIOX. 237 hills, fine orchards, vineyards, and farms. I was glad to meet with an old friend in Concep- cion, Captain W. S. Wilson, and make the ac- quaintance of his family. He is a nephew of Captain Wesley Wilson, who commanded the ship Andalusia, on which I and mine went to California in 1849. Captain W. S. Wilson ran the first sail vessel that ever went to Sacra- mento City; and on his second trip to that city took thither from the deck of the Anda- ///*/