bfa 
 
 

 
 WOOD LIBKAKT
 
 FOREST AND STREAM BOOKS. 
 
 Canoe and Boat Building, By w. p. Stephens. 
 
 360 pp., and fifty plates of working drawings. 
 
 Canoe Handling, ByC B.Vaux,"Dot," Price $1.00. 
 Camp & Canoe Cookery, By"Seneca," Price $1.00. 
 Woodcraft, By "Nessmuk," Price $1.00. 
 Dog Training, By S. T. Hammond, Price $1.00. 
 Angling Talks, By George Dawson, Price 50 cents. 
 
 Antelope and Deer of America, By John Dean 
 
 Caton, L.L. D., Price $2.50. 
 
 Small Yachts, By C. P. Kunhardt, Quarto. (Size 
 of page, 14^x1254, with sixty-three full-page 
 plates.) Price $7.00. 
 
 The Canoe Aurora, By Dr. Chas. A. Neide, Price 
 
 $1.00.
 
 CAN.OE AND BOAT 
 BUILDING. 
 
 A COMPLETE MANUAL FOR AMATEURS. 
 
 CONTAINING PLAIN AND COMPREHENSIVE DIRECTIONS 
 FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF CANOES, ROW- 
 ING AND SAILING BOATS AND 
 HUNTING CRAFT. 
 
 BY 
 
 W. P. STEPHENS, 
 Canoeing Editor of Forest and Stream. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS AND FIFTY PLATES OF 
 WORKING DRAWINGS. 
 
 FOURTH EDITION. 
 REVISED AND EXTENDED TO DATE. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 FOREST AND STREAM PUBLISHING Co. 
 
 1889.
 
 Copyright, 
 
 FOBEST AND STREAM PCBLISHdW Co . 
 
 1889.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 THE character and object of this book are set forth on its 
 title page. It is a manual designed for the practical assist- 
 ance of those who wish to build their own canoes 
 
 The number of boating men who find pleasure merely in 
 sailing a boat is small compared with those who delight not 
 only in handling, but as well in planning, building, improv- 
 ing or "tinkering" generally on their pet craft, and undoubt- 
 edly the latter derive the greater amount of pleasure from 
 the sport. They not only feel a pride in the result of their 
 work, but their pleasure goes on, independent of the seasons. 
 No sooner do cold and ice interfere with sport afloat than 
 the craft is hauled up, dismantled, and for the next half 
 year becomes a source of unlimited pleasure to her owner 
 and a nuisance to his family and friends. We know one 
 eminent canoeist who keeps a fine canoe in his cellar and 
 feeds her on varnish and brass screws for fifty weeks of 
 every year. 
 
 This class of boating men, to whom, by the way, most of 
 the improvements in boats and sails are due, usually labor 
 under great disadvantages. Their time for such work is 
 limited ; they have not the proper outfit of shop and tools, 
 nor the practical knowledge and skill only acquired by the 
 professional builder after years of careful and patient labor ; 
 and the latter as a class are unwilling to communicate freely 
 what they have acquired with so much difficulty, and are
 
 4 PREFACE. 
 
 seldom willing to assist the amateur, even with advice . His 
 only other source of information is reading, and while there 
 are books treating of the construction of large vessels, and 
 others of the use of boats, there are none giving precisely 
 the instructions needed by the beginner in boat building. 
 
 Having experienced most of the trials and mishaps that 
 fall to the lot of the tyro, we offer in these pages such help 
 as has proved of the greatest value to ourselves. To the 
 professional builder, some of the instructions may seem ele- 
 mentary and unnecessary; but it must be remembered that 
 we are not writing for him, who by long practice has ac- 
 quired an accuracy of eye and dexterity, that enable him to 
 shorten, or to dispense altogether with many of the opera- 
 tions described. We are writing for the amateur who, in 
 default of this training, must make up for it by extra care 
 and patience, even at the expense of time, and the methods 
 given are those which have proved best adapted to his pecu- 
 liar requirements. 
 
 Canoe building is treated in detail, as the processes in- 
 volved are common to all boatbuilding, only requiring greater 
 care and skill than ordinary work; and the principles, once 
 mastered, may be applied to the construction of any of the 
 simpler craft, such as rowboats and skiffs. 
 
 It has been impossible to give due credit to the originators 
 for many of the devices and inventions descrited; but to all 
 such we return thanks in beha'.f of the great army of ama- 
 teur builders and sailors, in which we claim a place.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page. 
 
 INTRODUCTION, 
 DESIGNING, - 
 MODEL MAKING, 
 LAYING DOWN, - 
 
 METHODS OF BUILDING, 27 
 
 TOOLS AND MATERIALS, 
 BUILDING, 
 
 WELLS, ... 57 
 
 o 
 APRONS, - 
 
 PADDLES, - - 
 
 SAILS AND RIGGING, ... - 
 
 CENTERBOARDS, 
 
 RUDDERS, 
 
 TABERNACLES, 
 
 TENTS AND BEDS, - 
 
 STOVES AND LAMPS, - 106 
 
 CANVAS CANOES, 
 
 BOAT BUILDING, 
 
 APPENDIX, 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES, 137

 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 r PHE word canoe has two distinct meanings, having been 
 -*- applied, for how long a lime no one knows, to boats of 
 long and narrow proportions, sharp at both ends and pro- 
 pelled by paddles held in the hand, without afccedfukrum, 
 the crew facing forward. The members of this great family 
 vary greatly in size and model, from the kayak of the Esqui- 
 mau, to the long war canoes, 80 to 100 feet long, of the 
 islands of the Pacific. Within the past twenty years the word 
 has been applied in England and America in a more limited 
 sense, to small craft used for racing, traveling and exploring, 
 as well as the general purposes of a pleasure boat, the main 
 essentials being those mentioned above, while sails and a deck 
 are usually added, the double paddle being used exclusively. 
 In Canada the term has for a long time been applied to a 
 similar boat, used for hunting and fishing, without decks, 
 and propelled by a single paddle. The following pares will 
 refer only to the second meaning given, as the one of most 
 importance to the amateur builder, and as the instructions 
 given will apply equally to the simpler and less complicated 
 Canadian open canoe. 
 
 The modern canoe which, although in use for some years 
 previously, may be said to date from Mr. MacGregor's 
 cruises and books, 1865, 6 and 7, was in its early years 
 divided into two distinct classes, Rob Roy and Nautilus, to 
 which a third, Ringleader, was afterward added, but the 
 many changes and improvements have so multiplied the 
 models, that such names as Nautilus, Pearl, Shadow, Jersey 
 Blue, etc., convey no definite idea of the boat's model or 
 dimension. There are now no less than nine widely differ- 
 ent models named Nautilus, SLX named Pearl, the Jersey
 
 8 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Blue has changed entirely, and half a dozen builders each 
 offer a different Shadow, while dozens of other models have 
 sprung up, so that such a division is no longer possible. 
 
 Modern canoes may, however, be classed in a different 
 manner, according to the relative proportions of their pad- 
 dling and sailing qualities, thus: 
 
 Paddling Canoes Propelled solely by paddle. 
 
 Satiable Paddling Sail being used as auxiliary, as in the 
 early Rob Roy. 
 
 Sailing and Paddling Both qualities being about equal, as 
 in most cruising canoes. 
 
 Paddleable Sailing Fitted mainly for sailing, as the later 
 English boats, the paddle being auxiliary. 
 
 Sailing Larger boats for two or three, using oars as aux- 
 iliaries, as the Mersey canoes. 
 
 For racing purposes a different classification has been 
 adopted here, which, with the English, is given in the Ap- 
 pendix. 
 
 The first point in building a canoe is to decide on the 
 model and dimensions, and this each man must do for him- 
 self, considering carefully the purpose for which he will use 
 his canoe, the water she will sail on, the load to ba carried, 
 and similar details. The designs given cover all the differ- 
 ent classes of canoes, and from them one can be selected as 
 a basis for modification and improvement, to suit the builder. 
 The following general directions will aid the novice in de- 
 ciding on the main features of his craft: 
 
 For small streams and rivers, where portages have to be 
 made, and sailing is of but little importance, a canoe 
 14ft.x27in. is most commonly used. She should have a flat 
 floor, little or no keel, ends well rounded, little sheer. For 
 general cruising work under sail and paddle, a canoe 14ft.x 
 30in., with flat floor, good bearings, sternpost nearly upright, 
 model full enough to carry crew and stores easily, a keel of 
 2 to Sin. or a centerboard. For large rivers, bays and open 
 waters, a canoe 14ft.x33in. or 15ftx31|in., fitted with a metal 
 centerboard of greater or less weight. The tyro will be safe
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 9 
 
 In following cither of these types, according to his purpose, 
 as they are the ones usually preferred by canoeists. 
 
 Any object floating in water will sick until it displaces t\ 
 weight of water equal to its own weight, thus with a canoe, 
 if the hull weighs 901bs., fittings 131bs., sails and spars 151bs., 
 crew 1451bs., and tent, stores, ets., 501bs., the total weight 
 being Slolbs., it will sink until it displaces 313 Ibs. of water, 
 
 ]Q 
 
 or r ? =5 cubic feet, as one cubic foot of fresh water weighs 
 
 U- . iJ 
 
 62.51bs. If in salt water, the divisor would be 65, a foot of 
 the latter being 2 Jibs, heavier than fresh. 
 
 Now, if that portion of our canoe which is below her pro- 
 posed waterline contains less than 5 cu. ft., through being 
 cut away too much, the boat will sink deeper than was in- 
 tended, diminishing the freeboard and increasing the draft. 
 This fault is found in some of the smaller canoes with fine 
 lines, as when loaded to their full capacity they sink so deep 
 as to be hard to paddle, and unsafe in rough water. To 
 guard against it, a rather full model is desirable for cruising, 
 where stores, etc., must be carried, it being hardly necessary 
 to calculate the displacement, as is done with larger boats. 
 
 If, in making a model, a block of wood be taken 14in. 
 long, 2|in. wide and -Jin. thick, or one-twelfth as large each 
 way as the portion of a 14ft. canoe below water, it will con- 
 tain 17.5 cu. in., and if our model, when cut from this block, 
 contains but 5 cu. in., it will be ^ or .28 of the original block. 
 
 This fraction, .28, is called the coefficient of the displace- 
 ment, and expresses the proportion between the bulk of the 
 boat below water and a solid whose dimensions are the 
 length on loadline, the beam on loadline, and the depth from 
 leadline to the outside of the bottom next the keel. In 
 yachts it varies from .25 to .50, the former being called 
 "light displacement" and the latter "heavy displacement'' 
 boats. 
 
 The displacement can be obtained, if desired, by first 
 weighing the entire block, ard after cutting out the model 
 weighing that also, the ratio of one to the other being the 
 coefficient of displacement mentioned above.
 
 10 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 In the first class of canoes referred to, it is important to 
 have the draft as light as is possible, as they are used often 
 in very shoal waters. If built with a flat floor they need not 
 draw over 4i or 5in., the keel adding about liu. more. 
 Canoes of the second class usually draw Gin. exclusive of 
 keel, which varies from 1 to 3in., the latter being the ex- 
 treme limit allowed by the Association rules. The larger 
 canoes are mostly centerboard boats, and draw from 6 to 
 Tin. with no outside keel. The draft should be decided on 
 and the position of the waterline fixed in the design, and the 
 canoe trimmed to it as nearly as possible at first, changes in 
 the ballasting being afterward made if they seem necessary. 
 
 The freeboard is the distance from the water to the deck, 
 and in most canoes it is less than it should be. The "least 
 freeboard," or the distance from the water to the lowest 
 point of the deck, may be 4, 5, and 6in. respectively for each 
 of the classes. 
 
 The curve of the gunwale from the bow downward to the 
 middle of the boat, and up again at the stern, is called the 
 sheer. Tho height of the bow above the point where the 
 freeboard is least, is usually Sin. in the first class of canoes, 
 and 6 to 7in. in the latter two, the stern being about 2in. 
 lower than the bow in each. 
 
 The rocker is the curve of the keel upward from a straight 
 line, and should be about Sin. for a 14ft. boat. 
 
 The midship section is a section across the boat at its 
 greatest beam, and on its shape the model of the boat largely 
 depends. As a canoe must carry a comparatively heavy 
 load on alight draft, and must sail with little ballast, a flat 
 floor is desirable. The sides should be vertical or slightly 
 flaring, the "tumble home" or rolling in of the upper streak 
 detracting from stability, and being of no use. 
 
 The round of deck may be Sin. in a ,'i7in. boat, and 3|in. 
 in a 30 to 33in. boat, as a high crown adds greatly to the 
 room below, frees the deck quickly of water, and no valid 
 objection can be made to it.
 
 DESIGNING. 
 
 fT^O go into the subject of designing at any length is outside 
 of the scope of our present work, but a short descrip- 
 tion of the method of drawing and tools used, will enable the 
 beginner to do all the work necessary for a small boat, and 
 will also serve to introduce him to a most fascinating em- 
 ployment for his leisure hours, the importance of which to 
 the intelligent and progressive yachtsman or boat sailor is 
 now generally admitted. 
 
 The amateur will require a drawing-board, which for canoe 
 work need be only a smooth piece of white pine three feet 
 long, one foot six inches wide, and three-quarters of an inch 
 thick; the lower and left hand edges being straight and at a 
 right angle to each other; a T square about thirty-six inches 
 long, one or two triangles of wood, or better of hard rubber, 
 a pair of dividers with plain and pencil points, several ship 
 curves of various patterns, scales and splines. These latter 
 are long flexible strips of wood or rubber, and are used for 
 drawing curves. They aie usually held in place by lead 
 weights at short intervals, but an easier and cheaper way is 
 to confine them by small pins driven into the board. The 
 best scales are those printed on strips of bristol board, eigh- 
 teen inches long, costing twenty cents each. They may be 
 had with any desired number of parts to the inch. The most 
 convenient scale for a canoe drawing is two inches to the foot
 
 12 DESIGNING. 
 
 (one-sixth full size), or one and a half inches, in which case 
 a common two-foot rule may be used, each division of one- 
 eighth of an inch on which will represent one inch. For 
 the sail plan the scale may be one-quarter of an inch to 
 the foot. 
 
 A good paper for working drawings is the "roll detail 
 paper" which is strong, buff in color and may be had of 
 four or five feet in width and of any length. Some drawing 
 pins are also needed to fasten the paper to the board, or if it 
 is to remain there for some time, small copper tacks may be 
 used, as the square and triangle will work over them more 
 easily. A few pencils and an India rubber will complete 
 the necessary outfit, a drawing pen being added if the draw- 
 ings are to be inked in when completed, as they should be. 
 If much work is proposed a few more curves may be added, 
 a pair of small spacing dividers, bow pen and pencil. 
 
 Three views are always used in delineating a vessel, as 
 shown in Plate I. These are called the sheer plan, 
 half breadth plan, and body plan. The sheer plan is a 
 vertical section, lengthwise of the boat, showing the curve of 
 stem and stern, the rabbet lines, the sheer or deck line 
 a b c, and the buttock lines, as curved lines; and the water' 
 lines, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, and the frame lines, 1 to 13, as straight 
 lines. 
 
 The half breadth plan shows the width of one side of the 
 boat at the deck and at each of the water lines, these lines 
 being curved (as well as the diagonals Nos. 1 and 2), the frame 
 and buttock lines being straight. The body plan shows the 
 cross section at every frame line or square station (1 to 13); 
 also, the line of the deck, a b c, as it appears from a point 
 directly in front of the boat. The lines in the right-hand 
 half (1 to X) are the sections of the forward body, and those 
 to the left (X to 13) the after body. The water lines, buttock 
 lines and diagonals are all straight in this plan. 
 
 The general type of canoe being decided on, we will make 
 out a table of dimensions for reference in drafting, as 
 follows:
 
 ANA TE UR CANOE B UILD1NG. 13 
 
 DIMENSIONS OP CRUISING CANOE. 
 
 Length, over all 14 ft. 
 
 Beam, extreme 30 in. 
 
 Beam, at water line 29 in. 
 
 Draft of water 7 in. 
 
 Depth, water line to rabbet (distance fh) 5 in. 
 
 Depthofkeel 2 in. 
 
 Freeboard, bow (distance ae) 11 in. 
 
 Freeboard, midships (distance bf) 5 in. 
 
 Freeboard, stern (distance eg) 9 in. 
 
 Sheer at bow 6 in. 
 
 Sheer at stern 4 in. 
 
 Round (or crown), of deck 3M' n - 
 
 Thickness of piank and deck J4in. 
 
 Keel, sided (thickness) 1 in. 
 
 Keel, moulded (depth) 2J4in. 
 
 Stem and stern, sided (thickness) 1 in. 
 
 Rake of stern post 2 in. 
 
 With the paper stretched as tightly as possible, and the 
 board on a table of convenient height before us, the light 
 coming from the upper left hand corner of the paper, we 
 first draw a base line, A B, near the lower edge of the paper 
 and in length equal to 14ft. on our scale, using the T square 
 with its head held firmly against the left-hand edge of the 
 board. Now starting at 0, the right-hand end of the base 
 line, we lay off with the dividers 14 spaces of 1ft. each, 
 numbering them fiom 1 to 14 as in the drawing, and, shift- 
 ing the T square to the lower edge of the board, we draw 
 vertical lines at each point of division, or 15 in all pro- 
 longing them sufficiently to cross the sheer plan above. 
 
 Now at a distance from A B equal to half the extreme 
 beam, in this case 3 2 a or 15in., we draw a horizontal line. 
 Leaving a little space between the upper limit of the 
 half breadth plan and the sheer plan, we draw the base line 
 of the latter, C D, and parallel to it, and at any convenient 
 distance apart, the water lines, Nos. 1, 2, etc., drawing 
 in first the load water line at a distance/ ft, above C D, equal 
 to Sin. 
 
 The other water lines, one above and two belbw the load 
 water lines, are spaced 2in. apart as the most convenient
 
 14 DESIGNING. 
 
 division in this case. The middle buttock and bow lines, 
 and any others that may bo necessary, are now drawn in the 
 half breadth and body plans, and the diagonals are also 
 drawn in the latter. 
 
 To avoid confusion of the many lines necessary, it is 
 well to draw these "construction lines," which are the frame 
 work on which the drawing is constructed, in red; then 
 when the drawing is completed, the water lines and 
 diagonals in the half breadth plan are drawn in blue, the 
 latter lines being broken, the former full. The remaining 
 outlines are drawn in full black lines. The base line C D is 
 supposed to pass through the lowest point of the hull of 
 the boat, exclusive of keel, which point, in nearly all 
 canoes, would be the bottom of the planking at midships, 
 next the keel. 
 
 Having the paper laid off, we will begin with the sheer 
 plan, laying off between stations 7 and 8 the least freeboard, 
 bf or Sin., making a small circle to mark the place. Now 
 at the bow we measure up a e or llin. from the water line 
 to the deck line, at the same time measuring in the width 
 that our stem is to be, outside of the rabbet, 1J in. ; and 
 similarly at the stern, measure up 9in. and in lin. to 
 the points a and c. Tailing a long spline, we will lay it on 
 the drawing so as to pass through these three spots, con 
 fining it by lead weights or by small pins on either side of 
 it at each point. If it does not take a "fair" curve without 
 any abrupt bends, other pins or weights must be added at 
 various points until it is true and fair throughout, when the 
 line may be drawn in with a pencil. 
 
 Next the outline of the bow, bottom of keel and stern may 
 be drawn in with a spline or the curves, and also the rabbet 
 line, showing the ending of the plank. The height of the 
 crown of the deck at midships may also be laid off, and the 
 middle line of the deck drawn. The center line of the mid- 
 ship section is E F, the manner of finding its position being 
 given further on, and on each side of it at a distance equal 
 to half the extreme beam, the perpendiculars s s are drawn; 
 then, using a small spline er a curve, the midship section is
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 15 
 
 drawn, according to the taste of the designer, the line begin- 
 ning at rabbet in the keel, and ending at the point 5, which 
 is, of course, as high above the water line as the correspond- 
 ing point in the sheer plan. The midship section is com- 
 pleted by drawing in the other half, measuring with the 
 dividers the breadths from E F on each water line, and 
 transferring them to the opposite side, afterward drawing a 
 curve through all the points thus found. The round of the 
 deck may also be drawn in the body plan, joining the two 
 extremes of the midship section. 
 
 Now proceeding to the half breadth plan we will first 
 draw in the half breadth of the keel, stem and stern. In 
 a keel canoe the breadths will be the same throughout, from 
 to lin., but in a centerboard boat the keel must be wider 
 amidships, to allow room for the trunk. In this boat the 
 width at the bow and stern is lin., so we lay off |in. and draw 
 a line parallel to A B, to represent the "half siding" of the 
 koel, as it is called. The same distance is laid off on each 
 side of E F in the body plan, being other views of the same 
 line. 
 
 The keel being laid off, the half breadth at the deck is 
 taken from the body plan and set off at X on the half 
 breadth plan. The side line of the deck, of course, passes 
 through this point, its ends meeting the side of the keel at 
 the points a and c, the distances of these points from stations 
 and 14 respectively, being the widths of the stem piece and 
 stern post outside of the planking. A spline is bent through 
 the three points so as to give the desired fulness at bow and 
 stern, and the "sideline," or half breadth, on deck is drawn 
 in. 
 
 The breadth on No. 2 water line is now laid off at X and the 
 endings of the line determined by squaring down from those 
 points in the sheer plan where No. 2 water line cuts the 
 rabbet of bow and stern to the siding of the keel in the half 
 breadth plan. To test it we will run in some of the interme- 
 diate sections in the body plan, beginning with No. 4. 
 
 Three points of the water line are now determined, and to 
 obtain others we refer to Table I. in the Appendix and find
 
 16 DESIGNING. 
 
 first, that in most of the canoes there described the midship 
 section is placed at about the middle of the load line, which 
 in our boat would be 2|in. aft of Station 7, the length on 
 loadline being 13ft. 4in., the fore body being 6ft. 8in. and 
 after body 6ft. 8in. An inspection of the tables shows that 
 the length of the "middle ordinate" (k 1} in canoes of a me- 
 dium type is about 37 per cent, of the beam at the water 
 line. Taking 36i per cent of 29in. we have lO^in. as the 
 half breadth at the middle of the fore body 
 
 For purposes of comparison of the various canoes, a 
 dividing buttock and body line is also used, being drawn in 
 the body and half breadth plans, midway between the center 
 and the extreme beam. The distances (rs t ) of the inter- 
 sections of this line with the load water line, afford a com- 
 parative measure of the degree of fullness of the boats, 
 which for the bow ranges from 29 to 47 per cent, of the 
 length of the fore body, and for the stern from 25 to 46 per 
 cent, of the after body, the larger fraction, of course, indi- 
 cating a finer boat. For the fore body we will take 36 per 
 cent as an average of cruising boats, then 36 per cent, of 
 6ft. 8|in.=2ft. 6in., which, laid off along the bowline from 
 the fore side of the stem at water line, gives a point on the 
 water line, and similarly, taking 40 per cent, (a rather large 
 figure, but the boat in question has a very fine run) we have 
 40 per cent, of 6ft. 8in.=2ft. Sin., which is laid off from the 
 after side of stern at w I. With these five points given a 
 spline is readily set and the water line drawn in. 
 
 Turning now to the body plan (the right hand side of 
 which represents the frames of the fore body, and the left 
 those of the afterbody) the sheer or deck line, a b c, is drawn. 
 The T square is laid across the board at the height of the 
 stem ; a in the sheer plan is squared across to the half -siding 
 of the stem at a, in the body plan, and similarly the heights 
 at Stations 2, 4, 6, are squared in. Now the half breadth 
 at Station 6 is taken from the half breadth plan with the 
 dividers and set off to the right of E F at the proper height, 
 then 4 and 2 are treated in the same manner, after which 
 a curve is drawn from X through the spots to a, showing
 
 A MA TEUR CANOE B UILDINO. 1 7 
 
 the deck line of the port side of the canoe, as it appears from 
 a point directly in front, after which the line is drawn in the 
 after body in the same manner. Of course this line gives the 
 upper endings of all the frame lines, 1 to 13. 
 
 Only every other one of these is drawn in, the moulds 
 thus being 2ft. apart, but by laying off the stations 1ft. apart, 
 the bulkheads, masts, etc., are more easily located. 
 
 The lower ends of all frame lines will be on the side line 
 of keel in body and half breadth plans, the heights being 
 taken along the rabbet at each station in the sheer plan. 
 Stations 4 and 10 are now completed, the breadths on the 
 water line being transferred from the half breadth to the 
 body plan, and curves drawn through the three points in each 
 frame thus obtained. 
 
 Now the remaiuiiig water lines, Nos. 1, Sand 4, maybe 
 drawn in the half breadth plan, their endings being found 
 by squaring down from their intersections with the rabbet in 
 the sheer plan and the breadths at 4, X and 10 being taken from 
 the body plan. "When all the water lines are fair, the frame lines 
 at 4 and 10 being altered slightly, if necessary, to correspond, 
 the remaining stations, 2, 6, 8 and 12. may be completed. 
 
 The design is now ready for the final fairing, for which 
 the "diagonals" No. 1 and No. 2 are drawn in the body plan. 
 These lines should be so drawn as to intersect all the frame 
 lines at as near a right angle as possible. The distances along 
 the diagonal from the point * to the intersection of each 
 frame line, are taken off in turn, and laid off on their corres- 
 ponding stations in the half breadth plan, and a line is 
 drawn through the points. If the line is unfair it must be 
 altered, the corresponding points in the water and frame 
 lines being changed at the same time, until all coincide, the 
 breadths and heights of every intersection being the same in 
 all three plans, when it may be assumed that the drawing is 
 fair. 
 
 The endings of the diagonals are found by squaring across 
 from the points in the body plan where they cross the siding 
 of stem and stern to the rabbet line on stem and stern in the 
 sheer plan, and then squaring down these points to the sidicg
 
 18 DESIGNING. 
 
 in the half breadth plan. The diagonals may be laid off in 
 two ways, either an "expanded," as already described, or a 
 "level" diagonal, in which the distances from E F in the 
 body plan to each intersection are measured horizontally as 
 g d. 
 
 As an additional test of fairness other "buttock" lines may 
 "be run in. These are drawn in the body and half breadth 
 plans, parallel to the center lines, and are transferred to 
 the sheer plan by taking the height of each intersection in 
 the body plan and setting it off on the corresponding sta- 
 tion, the curve being drawn through the "spots" afterward. 
 The endings of the buttock lines aie found by squaring up 
 from the points in the half bieadth plan where they cross 
 the deck line, to the deck line in the sheer plan. 
 
 The process of "fairing" may be considered as completed 
 when all the curved lines are true and fair, and the heights 
 and breadths of every intersection are the same in each of 
 the three plans. 
 
 This completes the "construction drawing " from which 
 the calculations, if any, are made. Plate II. represents the 
 completed "working drawing" of the same canoe, showing 
 dimensions of keel, ribs, etc., and the position of all fittings. 
 This may be a separate drawing, or the details may be 
 added to the "construction drawing," after which all lines 
 are inked in, as before directed.
 
 MODEL MAKING, 
 
 TF the method of designing described be followed there 
 - will be no necessity for a model, but unless the amateur 
 has had some practice in drafting it will be easier for him to 
 first make a model, shaping it by eye, and then to take the 
 lines from it. 
 
 In this case the design will be started on paper, as previ- 
 ously described, the sheer plan completed and the deck line 
 drawn in the half breadth plan. To make the model, a block 
 of soft dry white pine is required of a size to correspond 
 with the scale of the drawing. The portion below the 
 water line will be made of several thicknesses of pine and 
 walnut or mahogany placed alternately. Each piece will 
 
 FIG. 1. 
 
 be of the same thickness as the distance between the water 
 lines. A sufficient number of these pieces are taken to make 
 up the required depth, and are fastened together with a few 
 screws so placed near the back as not to interfere with the 
 shaping of the model, and on top of all the pine piece is 
 screwed, making a block like Fig. 1. 
 
 This block is now laid on the drawing, each of the divi-
 
 20 
 
 MODEL MAKING. 
 
 sions marked on it and numbered and the lines drawn on 
 each of the four sides. On the back of the block tho sneer 
 plan is drawn, omitting the keel, it any, which will be added 
 afterward. The half breadths on deck are now taken with 
 the dividers from the half breadth plan and transferred to 
 the top of the block, the curve run in with a spline pinned 
 to the spots, and the block is cut to the line ABC. 
 
 The lines on the bottom of the block are now squared up 
 across the new face, Fig. 2, the heights of the deck line taken 
 
 FIG. 2. 
 
 from the sheer plan and set off on their proper stations, and 
 a line A D E drawn through the spots. The wood is now 
 cut away to this line on the curved side and the line repre- 
 senting the middle of the deck on the back, leaving of course 
 the same crown to the block as it is intended that the deck 
 shall have. Next the back of the block is cut to the lines of 
 the bow, stern and bottom. 
 
 The block is now screwed fast to a piece of board, which 
 latter is nailed or screwed to the work-bench, O as to hold it 
 firmly, and cut to the shape desired by the builder, the mid- 
 ship section being first roughed out, then the ends being cut 
 away, and all finally finished off with sandpaper. To com 
 pkte the model it is mounted on a board, the keel added, be- 
 ing glued to the board, it is varnished, and screw eyes put in 
 to hang it up by. The model itself should be sciewed to the 
 board so as to be easily removed. 
 
 To take the lines from the block model the pieces are un- 
 screwed and each laid in turn on the half breadth plan and 
 the edge traced thereon, giving the water lines, from which
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING- 21 
 
 the body plan may be drawn in. If it is desired to make a 
 model from a drawing already completed, the operation is 
 reversed, the pieces or "lifts" are planed to the proper thick- 
 ness, the stations laid off across each, and the half breadths 
 set off, the curve of the water line drawn, and the piece 
 trimmed away to the line. After a piece is prepared for 
 each water line, all are screwed together and the edges 
 rounded off, forming a fair surface. 
 
 It is sometimes necessary to take the lines from a solid 
 n.odcl, to do which the sheer plan is traced on paper, the 
 half breadths on deck, and the heights to deck line are taken 
 off by the divi'ders, and the lines drawn on the paper, then 
 the frame lines are obtained by bending a thin strip of lead 
 around the model and tracing the outline of it on the paper 
 in the proper position, shown by the deck and sheer lines. 
 The drawing being completed, the next operation is laying 
 down. 
 
 LAYING DOWN. 
 
 This is the' enlarging of the drawing to the full size of the 
 boat, and is necessary in all boat and ship building. For 
 large vessels, the drawing is made on the floor of the 
 "mould loft," either in one continuous length, or in the case 
 of very long vessels, in two portions overlapping each other. 
 For small work a wide board will answer, 16ft. long and 2ft. 
 wide, or less, according to the size of the boat. 
 
 On this common roll drawing paper is laid and tacked, 
 and it is divided off, as was described for the detail drawing, 
 except that the half breadth plan will now overlap the sheer 
 plan to save room. Referring now to the detail drawing, 
 a "table of offsets" is made. A sheet of paper is ruled in 
 vertical columns, one for each square station, and also in 
 horizontal lines as follows. In this table is set down the 
 heights above base line of the stem, rabbet and sheer, and
 
 MODEL MAKING. 
 
 the half breadth at the deck, on each waterline, and on the 
 diagonals: 
 
 Half Breadths. 
 
 go 
 
 
 X 
 
 X 
 
 >-" CO 
 
 * 
 
 
 ? 
 
 JS ^ i 
 
 CO >& * <^> 
 
 &. X o IS 
 
 . 
 
 JK 
 
 X 
 
 . 
 
 X 
 
 X 
 
 iK 
 
 
 O 1-^ 
 
 JN V-- 
 
 00\ l^\ 
 
 From ' this table the lines are laid down full size on the 
 paper, each distance being measured off on its proper frame 
 or water line, and a long, thin batten of pine run through 
 the spots thus found. As we are now working from a smaller 
 scale to a larger, all errors are increased in the same ratio.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING, 2* 
 
 and though the small drawing may have been accurate 
 there will be some errors in the large one, and to correct 
 these the same process cf "fairing" is necessary, as was be- 
 fore described ; running in the water lines, frame lines, and 
 diagonals with the battens until all the curved lines are fair 
 and regular, and the breadths and heights of every point 
 are the same in all three plans When the drawing is faired 
 the remaining details, such as masts, bulkheads, floor, etc , 
 are drawn in their proper places. 
 
 The lines of the drawing now show the outside surface 
 of the plank, bat the moulds over which the boat is 
 built must, of course, correspond with the inner surface of 
 planking. In large work the model is often made to the 
 outside of the frames only, then the breadths, when taken 
 off, show the actual size of the frame. If the working draw- 
 ings are ma'Je to include the plank, the thickness of the 
 latter is deducted at some stage of the drafting prior to lay- 
 ing down. In our canoe, for convenience, the drawings will 
 all include the plank, so in making the moulds its thickness, 
 iin., must be deducted. 
 
 To copy the frame lines, a piece of thin board or card- 
 board A BC D, Plate XIX., is slipped under the paper of the 
 lar^e drawing, adjusted unc.cr the line to be copied, and 
 held in place by a couple of tacks. Setting the points of the 
 compasses Jin. apart, a row of spots is pricked through the 
 paper into the board, Jin. inside the frame line, shown by 
 the small circles in Fig. 3. At the same time points on the 
 center lino, E F, load water line and the diagonals Dl and 
 D2 are also marked. The board is then removed, a batten 
 run tnrough the spots.and the wood trimmed away to the line. 
 If the drawing is made on a board or floor the lines may be 
 taken off, as in Fig. 4. 
 
 A batten about fx^in. is bent along the line on the floor 
 and held down by flat-headed nails. A piece of board is 
 laid on top of the batten and a mark scratched on its under 
 side with the piece of bent wire shown at A. In this case, 
 after cutting to the mark another line must be gauged in. 
 inside the edge, and a second cut made to it, after which it
 
 24 
 
 MODEL MAKING. 
 
 is laid on the drawing and the center line, water line and 
 diagonals laid off on it. 
 
 FIG. 4. 
 
 To make the complete mould, a piece of lin. pine is 
 planed up on one edge, H I, Fig, o, a center line E F, is drawn 
 at right angles to it, and also the load water line, then the 
 pattern is laid on this boaid, adjusted to the center and 
 water lines, and one-half marked off; then the pattern is 
 turned over, adjusted on the other side of E F, and that side 
 also marked off, the diagonals being marked at the same 
 time.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 25 
 
 FIG. 6
 
 26 MODEL MAKING 
 
 As the boat tapers from midships to the ends, it will be 
 evident that the after side of the forward moulds will be 
 slightly larger than the fore sides, and the reverse will be the 
 case with the after moulds, No. X having both sides the 
 same in most canoes. To allow for this bevel, moulds 2, 4, 
 and perhaps 6 must be sawed out ^in. larger than the marks 
 show. The bevels at the deck height and on each diagonal 
 are now taken from the drawing with a common carpenter's 
 bevel, applied in turn to each of the above points, and the 
 edges of the mould are trimmed accordingly. 
 
 To complete the mould, a notch K must be cut at the 
 bottom to admit that portion of the keel or keelson inside of 
 the rabbet, as will be explained later. 
 
 Besides the moulds described there will be required a stem 
 mould (Fig. 6) giving the outline of the stem, a rabbet mould 
 made to the rabbet line (if the stern is curved similar moulds 
 will be required for it) and a beam mould, showing the curve 
 and depth of the der k beams. These should be made of Jin. 
 pine. They are taken off by either of the above methods. 
 
 The tendency of light boats is to spread in width in build- 
 ing, to avoid which in a canoe, where a small excess of beam 
 may bar the boat from her class in racing, the model and all 
 the drawings are sometimes made about one inch narrower 
 amidships than the desired beam of the canoe, and the sides 
 are allowed to spread when the deck beams are put in, if 
 they have not done sc previously, as ofter happens unless 
 great care is taken.
 
 METHODS OF BUILDING. 
 
 \\T HILE but few of the many different methods of building 
 are adapted to the purpose of the amateur, a descrip 
 tion of the principal ones will enable him to understand the 
 entire subject more clearly. Of these, two are by far the most 
 common, the carvel, and the lapstreak, also called clinker or 
 clincher. In the first, usually employed for ships' boats, 
 yawls, Whitehall and other boats, where lightness is not of 
 first importance, the planks (six to eight on each side) are 
 laid edge to edge, not overlapping, and nailed to the ribs or 
 timbers that make the frame, the latter being spaced from 
 nine to fifteen inches apart. To prevent leakage, a small 
 thread of raw cotton, lamp wick, or in large boats, oakum, 
 is driven into the seams with a mallet and caulking chisel, 
 and the seams afterward filled with putty, marine glue, or if 
 oakum is used, with pitch. To stand the strain of caulking 
 and to hold the cotton, the planks must be at least fin. 
 thick, which would be too heavy for a canoe 
 
 In a lapstreak boat the planks lap over each other a dis- 
 tance of one-half to one inch, the edges being held together 
 by rivets, some of these also passing through the ribs. In 
 all cases the upper board laps on the outside of the one be- 
 low it. Three objections are made to this mode of building 
 liability to leakage, difficulty of cleaning inside, and the ob- 
 struction that the laps offer to the water. 
 
 As to the first, it is almost entirely dependent on the skill 
 and care used in the construction, and although a lapstreak 
 boat may sometimes leak when first put in the water after 
 drying out for a long time, it will very soon be perfectly 
 tight. While the second point is an objection, it is by no 
 means a serious one. and with, a little care the boat may be
 
 28 METHODS OF BUILDING. 
 
 kept perfectly clean, if not, a stream of water from a hose 
 will wash out all dirt. The third point is the one most em- 
 phasized by the opponents of the lapstreak, but they over- 
 look the fact that the laps, or lands, as they are usually 
 called in England, are very nearly parallel, not with the 
 water lines, but with the course of the water, which is largely 
 down and under the boat. At the ends the lands are dimin- 
 ished to nothing, if the boat is properly built, and that they 
 detract nothing from the speed is well proved by the fact 
 that a very large majority of all canoe races have been won 
 by lapstreak boats. 
 
 As to their advantages, they are light, easily repaired 
 when damaged and they will stand harder and rougher usage 
 than any other boats of their weight without injury. The 
 lands on the bottom protect it greatly when ashore, and if 
 anything they add slightly to the initial stability. 
 
 The oyster skiffs of Staten Island Sound and Princess Bay, 
 boats from 18 to 25ft. long, lapstreak, of fin. plank, are con- 
 sidered by the fishermen to be stiffer and to rise more quickly 
 than smooth-built boats of the same model. As after some 
 experience with different modes of building, we have settled 
 on the lapstreak as the best for canoes, and the easiest for 
 amateurs, we shall later on describe it in detail. 
 
 In order to obtain a smooth skin, canoes are sometimes 
 carvel built, as before described, but of Jin. stuff, and as 
 this cannot be caulked, a strip of wood about Jin. thick and 
 lin. wide, is placed on the inside of each seam between the 
 timbers, the edges of the planks being nailed to it. This is 
 called the "rib and batten" plan, and is largely used in Canada. 
 
 Another and similar plan, the ribbon, or more properly 
 ribband carvel (not "rib and carvel") is used in Massachu- 
 setts and Connecticut for whaleboats, and in England for 
 canoes. In these boats the ribbands are of oak or ash, l^x 
 iin., slightly rounded on the back and as long as the boat. 
 They are screwed to the moulds, when the latter are in posi- 
 tion, just where the seams of the planks come, and as each 
 plank is laid on, its edges arc nailed to the ribbands for their 
 entire length. When the ribs are put in they must be
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 29 
 
 "jogged" or notched over the ribbands. In both of these 
 methods the boat is improved if a strip of varnished or 
 painted muslin is laid along the seam, under the ribband, 
 but this is often difficult to do. In a similar way the boats of 
 the yacht Triton arc smooth built, with a strip of brass inside 
 each seam instead of a ribband of wood. While having a 
 very fine surface these boats are usually not as tight as the 
 lapstreak, and are more easily damaged. 
 
 In another method sometimes employed for canoes, the 
 skin is double, the boat being first planked with ^in. boards 
 and then with a second layer, crossing the inner one. The 
 first layer sometimes is laid diagonally, sloping aft from bow 
 to stern with the second layer sloping the other way, so as 
 to cross it nearly at right angles; a method used in U. 8. 
 Navy launches and lifeboats. 
 
 Sometimes the inner skin runs across the boat, and the 
 outer fore and aft, as in the well-known "Herald" canoes, 
 and sometimes both run fore and aft. the seams of one skin 
 coming in the centers of the planks of the other, rivets being 
 placed along all the edges, a method of building followed 
 also in some of our largest cutter yachts. 
 
 With either of these methods a thickness of muslin is laid 
 in paint between the two skins, and both are well nailed 
 together. While making a very strong boat, it is often 
 heavy, and when water once penetrates between the skins, 
 as it will in time (with the thin plank used in boat building), 
 the leaks cannot be stopped, and the wood will soon rot. 
 Another serious objection to it is the great difficulty of 
 makiug repairs. 
 
 Boats and canoes are sometimes built of tin, copper or 
 galvanized iron, soldered and riveted together, a method 
 usually confined to ships' boats and lifeboats Two tin 
 canoes were present at the first meet in 1880, and seemed 
 strong, light and serviceable, though of poor shape. No 
 doubt an excellent canoe could be built of sheet copper, that 
 would not leak, and would be indestructible; but the cost 
 and weight would be considerable. 
 
 In order to obtain a smooth skin with the advantage of the
 
 30 METHODS OF BUILDING. 
 
 lapstreak, the planks are sometimes rabbeted on their ad- 
 joining edges, half the thickness being taken from each 
 plank, leaving smooth surfaces, inside and out, but thicker 
 plank must be used than in the lapstreak, and the working 
 is more difficult. In another mode the plauking is in narrow 
 strips, perhaps Ixf in. One of these is laid in place and 
 nailed through from edge to edge, into the keel, then another 
 is laid alongside of it and nailed to it, and so in succession 
 until the boat is completed. A few frames are needed to 
 stiffen the boat near the masts. 
 
 In the boats made by the Ontario Boat Company these 
 strips are tongued and grooved, then steamed and forced 
 together, the strips in some boats running fore and aft, atid 
 in others running around the boat, from gunwale to gun- 
 wale. In shell boats, where a very fine surface is of much 
 greater importance than in canoes, the skin is made of Span- 
 ish cedar, about in. thick, laid in four or six pieces, join- 
 ing on the keel, and once or twice in the length of the boat, 
 making one longitudinal seam and one or two transverse 
 ones; but this method is not strong enough for canoes. 
 
 Paper has been used for the past thirteen years as a ma- 
 terial for canoes, but although the boats are strong, tight, 
 and but little heavier than the lapstreak, they have not 
 become popular, and are but little used. The process of 
 construction is patented, and lequires both tools and expe- 
 rience beyond the reach of the amateur. Canoes have been 
 built during the last five years on a similar system, using 
 thin veneer in three thicknesses instead of paper, but, besides 
 their great weight, no glue or cement can be depended on 
 when long immersed in water ; they are open to the same objec- 
 tions as all double-skinned boats, it is only a matter of time 
 before leakage begins, after which they are practically ruined. 
 One of the oldest modes of boat building was to make a 
 frame of wickerwork or similar material, covering it with 
 leather, a method still followed, except that canvas is sub- 
 stituted for the leather. This mode of building is perhaps 
 the easiest of all for the amateur, and we shall devote a chap- 
 ter specially to it further on.
 
 TOOLS AND MATERIALS. 
 
 In small boats, where lightness and strength are of first 
 importance, it is necessary that the material should be very 
 carefully selected, both as to quality and as to the fitness of 
 each kind for the required purpose. Beginning with the 
 keel, the best wood is white oak, with a clear, straight grain. 
 In planing it will be found that the grain of the wood in 
 one direction splinters and roughs up, while in the other it 
 lies smooth aiid the keel should be so placed in the boat 
 that the splinters or rough ends point aft, otherwise it will 
 be torn in dragging over rocks and rough ground. In looking 
 at the end of the wood, a series of concentric layers will 
 be noticed. The piece should, if possible, be placed in such 
 a position that the nails in it will pass through the layers, 
 and not between two of them, for instance, in a keel the 
 nails will be mostly vertical, so the layers of the wood should 
 lie horizontally, abd the same is true of the ribs, the nails 
 through them being at right angles to the length of the 
 boat, and the layers in each rib running fore and aft, thus 
 avoiding any liability to split. Next to oak, either ash or 
 yellow pine will make a good keel, but, hickory should never 
 be used in a boat, as it decays rapidly. 
 
 For the stem and stern, which are usually curved, the 
 best material by far is hackmatack, or as it is sometimes 
 called, tamarack, which may be had in knees of almost any 
 curvature, from three to ten inches thick, or larger Forcanoes 
 a three-inch knee is the best, as if of full thickness it may be 
 sawn into three slabs, each of which will make a stem and 
 stern. Oak knees are also used, and are very good, but 
 heavier If knees cannot be had, the stem and stern maybe 
 cut out of straight plank.
 
 32 TOOLS AND MATERIALS. 
 
 For the sides of a centerboard trunk, clear, dry -white pine 
 is good, but mahogany is better, though much more costly. 
 The timbers or ribs are usually of oak, though elm is excel- 
 lent for this purpose. The wood must be clear and of the 
 best quality in order to bend easily. The best oak for this 
 purpose is found in the shape of stave timber used by coopers 
 for the staves of barrels. Those pieces are from three to 
 five feet long, and about two by five inches square, one 
 being sufficient for an ordinary lapstreak boat. 
 
 For planking, the very best material is white cedar, varie- 
 ties of which are found along the entire length of the Atlantic 
 seaboard. It is usually sold in boards , 1 and IJin. thick for 
 boat work, and from 12 to 20 feet long. For small boats it 
 should be clear from sap and knots, but for larger work 
 that is painted, the latter, if hard and sound, do not matter 
 much, in fact, the knotty cedar is considered tougher and 
 stronger than the clear. 
 
 Where cedar cannot be had, white pine can be used to 
 advantage; in fact, the amateur will often find it much easier 
 to buy pine of Jin. already planed than to work up the 
 thick cedar himself, while pine is not so apt to change its 
 shape in working, a source of much trouble with cedar. 
 Where neither of these can be had spruce may be used, but 
 it is inferior. Mahogany and Spanish cedar make excellent 
 planking, but they are no better than white cedar and cost 
 much more. Most of the English books on canoeing recom- 
 mend oak for planking, but it is never used here, being too 
 heavy. 
 
 For the bulkheads, floor boards and inside work white 
 pine is the best ; for decks, rudder and upper streak of plank- 
 ing, mahogany, and for deck beams and carlings, spruce. 
 The gunwale may be of spruce or pine, or, if outside, as 
 will be shown, of mahogany, oak or yellow pine, the 
 coamings of the cockpit being of oak. Paddles and spars 
 are made either of white pine or spruce, the latter being 
 stiffer and stronger, but a little heavier. 
 
 The other necessary materials nails, screws, metal work, 
 etc. will be mentioned in detail as are required.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 88 
 
 The excellence of amateur work depends not, as many im- 
 agine, on the number of tools at band, but on the care 
 and perseverance devoted to it. The best work maybe done 
 with very few tools; but, on the other hand, it can be done 
 much more quickly with a larger number. 
 
 If the amateur desires to build but one boat, at as small an 
 outlay for tools as possible, the following will be sufficient: 
 
 Panel saw, 16in., 8 teeth to the inch $1 00 
 
 Ripsaw, 28in., 5 teeth to the inch 200 
 
 Compass saw, 12in 40 
 
 Jack plane, double iron 100 
 
 Smoothing plane, double iron 85 
 
 Thumb plane ' 25 
 
 Clawhammer 75 
 
 Riveting hammer 40 
 
 Cutting pliers, Stubbs's or Hall's 85e. to 1 25 
 
 Small screwdriver 50 
 
 Three gimlets, 1-18, }4 J^in 50 
 
 Three brad awls 25 
 
 Six-inch try-square 35 
 
 Spokeshave 50 
 
 Marking gauge 10 
 
 Chisels, ^, ^, 1m 75 
 
 Two foot rule 25 
 
 Gouges, J^-lin.. inside bevel 50 
 
 Oilstone 100 
 
 Compasses, 5in 40 
 
 Four iron clamps, 4in 2 00 
 
 Chalk line and scratch awl ... 25 
 
 $15 25 
 
 The above are about the prices of the best quality tools, 
 cheap ones not being worth buying, and with them any kind 
 of small boat can be built, but the addition of the following 
 tools will save some time and trouble: 
 
 Eight-inch ratchet brace $1 85 
 
 Center and German bits, various sizes 1 50 
 
 Countersink 25 
 
 Rabbetplane 60 
 
 Bead plane, one-quarter inch 50 
 
 Draw knife, nine-inch wide blade 1 50 
 
 Screwdriver, ten-inch 65 
 
 Twenty-six-inch hand saw (_ Instead of sixteen- ( 1 75 
 Eight- inch back saw ( inch panel saw ( 1 10
 
 34 TOOLS AND MATERIALS. 
 
 These will be all that are needed, except a few files, and 
 two or three drills to fit the brace, for the brasswork, such 
 as the stemband, but there are some others that are very use- 
 ful, though by no means indispensable, as follows: 
 
 Two-foot steel square. 
 
 Bench, axe. 
 
 Expansion bit, seven-eighths to three-inch. 
 
 Level. 
 
 Convex spokeshave, for oars and paddles. 
 
 Mortise gauge. 
 
 Adze, for larger boats. 
 
 Small hand-drill stock with drills, 
 
 Two or three round sole planes for spars. 
 
 Besides these tools there will be needed a block of iron 
 called a "set," or riveting iron, used to hold against the head 
 of a nail in riveting; a "burr starter," which is a piece of iron 
 or brass rod fin. in diameter and Sin. long, with a small 
 hole in one end, used to drive the burrs on to the nails, and 
 some wooden clamps, shown in Fig. 7. The solid ones are 
 sawed out of oak, 6 to Sin. long and lin. thick, strengthened 
 by a rivet through them. The others are of the same size, 
 but in two pieces, joined by a bolt or rivet. In use a 
 wedge is driven in the back, closing the other ends of the 
 jaws. 
 
 A work bench of some kind must be had, the simplest 
 form being a plank Sin. thick, lOin. wide, and, if possible, 
 several feet longer than the intended boat, so as to allow 
 room for a vise on one end, as well as space to plane up long 
 boards. This plank should be securely fastened along a 
 wall, 2ft. Sin. above the floor and with its outer edge 20in. 
 from the wall, the space at the back being filled in with lin. 
 boards, making a bench 20in. wide, the top being level and 
 smooth, as the material to be planed on it will be very thin. 
 A vise of some kind must be placed near the left hand end, 
 an iron one being the best, but the common wooden one wiU 
 answer, and is much cheaper.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 35 
 
 ,/ 
 
 
 Fia. 7.
 
 86 TOOLS AND MATERIALS. 
 
 Fig. 8 shows a permanent bench fastened to the wall. The 
 top is Sin. thick, of oak, and should be 24in. wide, and at 
 least 10ft. long, a piece of Sin. plank being fastened at the 
 right hand end by way of an extension for planing long 
 stuff. A series cf fin. holes about 3in. apart are bored in 
 each leg, a peg being inserted in one of them to support long 
 boards, in planing the edges. A bench hook (a) is placed 
 near the vise; the bracket (c) is cut out of 2in. stuff and is 
 bolted to the bench, being used to support spars, paddles 
 and similar pieces, one end being held in the vise, and the 
 other resting on the bracket. 
 
 Drawers are provided under the bench for tools, nails, 
 screws, etc. At the back of the bench an upright board 12in. 
 wide, carries a rack for the chisels, gouges, gimlets and 
 small tools, above it, on the wall, the saws, draw-knife, 
 spokeshave, brace, etc., are hung, a rack for the small 
 planes, and another for sandpaper is fastened, also small 
 boxes for such nails and screws as are most frequently re- 
 quired. 
 
 Two saw horses or benches are also necessary, the tops 
 being Sin. thick, 6in. wide and 3ft. long, and the legs 
 2ft. long. Two pins of hard wood lin. in diameter are 
 driven tightly into holes about lin. apart in one of the 
 benches. When not in use they are driven down flush with 
 the top, but in slitting long boards, they are driven up 
 and the board wedged between them. 
 
 Another useful piece of furniture is a stool about Ift.x 
 18in. on top and 18in. high, one-half of the top being a seat 
 and the other half, the right hand side, making a tray to 
 hold nails, screws, hammer, pliers, and other small tools 
 used in fastening the plank, thus avoiding the necessity 
 of stooping over the work, and also keeping the tools off 
 the floor. 
 
 A framework of some description is always necessary to 
 support the boat or vessel in building. If a ship or yacht, 
 the keel is laid on blocks a sbort distance apart, but in boat 
 work, the "stocks," as they are called, are usually a plank 
 set on edge, at such a height above the floor as will bring
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 37
 
 88 
 
 TOOLS AND MATERIALS. 
 
 the boat in a convenient position (Fig. 9). The piece () is 
 a common pine or spruce board, lin. thick. 8 or lOin. wide 
 and 13ft. long, the upper edge being cut to the rocker of the 
 keel, as taken from the drawing. This board is supported 
 
 FIG. 9. 
 
 on three legs and securely braced in all directions, the top 
 being 20in. from the floor, so as to give room to work on the 
 garboards. 
 
 Another style of stocks is shown in Fig. 10, a table being 
 built about 13ft. long and 30in. wide, somewhat like a canoe 
 in breadth; the top, which is 20in. from the floor, is per- 
 fectly level. A line is drawn down the center, while across 
 
 FIG. 10. 
 
 the board, battens, lin. wide and l^in. deep, are nailed, 2ft. 
 apart, to each of which a mould is screwed, the boat, of 
 course, being built keel upward. 
 
 This method of building (similar to that employed for shell 
 boats) is the easiest and best, but involves more labor in the 
 construction of the table or stocks ; however, if several boats 
 are to be built, it will pay to make a strong level table, as 
 when once a set of moulds are made and each fitted to the 
 screw -holes in its respective crosspiece, they may be set in
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 39 
 
 place in a few minutes with every certainty that they are 
 correctly placed, and that they must remain so, while the 
 table makes a convenient place to lay tools. 
 
 Finally a steam box of some kind is necessary, its size de- 
 pending on the work to be done. Usually all the steaming 
 required for a canoe is the timbers, perhaps or Win. thick, 
 which may be done with care in a trough of boiling water, 
 but if anything larger is to be bent, akettle, holding a couple 
 of pails of water, should be arranged over a stove, or roughly 
 bricked in if out of doors, a top of Sin. plank being fitted 
 closely to it with a pipe leading from the top to the steam- 
 box, which is of l or even lin. boards, and may be 3x6in. 
 inside and 7ft. long, supported on trestles or legs near the 
 kettle, and fitted on one end with a hinged door to close 
 tightly, or the end may be closed with a bundle of rags. 
 
 (See Plate XV. and page 119.)
 
 BUILDING. 
 
 ^PHE drawing of the boat being completed, the moulds 
 -*- made from it and the bench and stocks being ready as 
 previously described, the first step in the actual work of 
 building, is the shaping of the keel If the boat has no 
 centerboard trunk, the keel is made of the samo siding or 
 thickness as the stem and stern, for its entire length, its 
 depth below the rabbet being taken from the drawing and 
 Jin. , the thickness of the plank, added. The keel may be 
 made l^in. deep, the extra depth, if more is required, being 
 made up by a false keel screwed to it, which may be re- 
 moved for shoal water, as shown in Fig. 11. In selecting 
 the wood for the keel and keel batten, the layers should lie 
 horizontally, as shown. 
 
 If for a centerboard, either of the usual form, or one of the 
 patented varieties requiring a trunk, a flat keel must be used 
 as shown in the plate, which represents the cross section of a 
 flat keel and centerboard trunk. The width, for the length 
 of the trunk, will be S^in. on top, tapering to the size of the 
 stem and stern at its ends, the depth or thickness of the 
 keel being uniform, fin. to lin. throughout its length. 
 
 With the edge keel, a keel batten is necessary, as shown in 
 the cross section. This will be in. thick, and lin. wider 
 than the keel, to which it is nailed, thus overlapping the 
 latter -Jin. on each side, forming a rabbet for the garboards. 
 If the flat keel is used, the rabbet is cut directly on the keel. 
 
 The stein is next sawed out from a hackmatack knee, and 
 planed up or lin. thick, for an ordinary canoe, and the 
 fore edge, rabbet and bearding lines marked on it, using the 
 moulds made for each. 
 
 The rabbet line of a boat, marked a in the drawing, is the
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 41 
 
 / 7 
 
 Fia. 11.
 
 42 BUILDING. 
 
 line where the outer surface of the sliin or planking joins the 
 surface of the stem, stern, and keel ; the inner or back rabbet, 
 b, shown by the dotted line, is the line along which the inner 
 ' side of the plank joins the lower edge or ends of the same, 
 and the bearding line, c, shown by a broken line, is where 
 the inner surface of the skin joins the deadwoods, keel, stem 
 and stern. The back rabbet is found by squaring in from 
 the rabbet line, a distance equal to the thickness of the 
 plank. 
 
 After the rabbet and bearding lines are laid off, the rabbet 
 is cut, a piece of wood ^in. thick and several inches long 
 being used, applied to the rabbet as the cutting progresses 
 to test its depth and shape. The rabbet is not cut quite to 
 its full depth at present. 
 
 The sternpost in most canoes is made of a knee, the rabbet 
 being curved as at the bow (see drawing of the Dot), but 
 there is no good reason for so doing, unless the rake of the 
 sternpost is excessive, as is now seldom the case, and a better 
 plan is to make the sternpost of a straight piece, as shown, 
 the rabbet forming a right angle or a little more, at the 
 junction of keel and post. This piece is planed up, the rab 
 bet marked and cut, as in the stem, and fastened to the 
 keel by a 2|in. screw passing up into it, as shown, and 
 further secured by a chock of oak nailed or screwed in the 
 angle. 
 
 To fasten stem and keel together, a scarf is cut of the shape 
 shown in the drawing, about Sin. long, copper nails being 
 driven through the keel and stem, and rivetted over burrs on 
 the top of the former. The keel batten is now nailed on top 
 of keel, butting against the stem forward and the chock aft. 
 The bearding line is drawn in where it has been omitted 
 across the scarf forward and chock aft, and the rabbet 
 trimmed at these points and the frame laid on the large 
 drawing, from which the water line is marked on stem and 
 stern, and the positions of moulds, bulkheads, mast steps, 
 trunk, etc., on both top and bottom of keel. 
 
 If a centerboard trunk is required, it must be put in now ; 
 being constructed as shown by the sectional views. The
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 43 
 
 head ledges, forming the ends of the trunk, are of oak, l|in. 
 wide and as thick as the slot or opening, fin. for a thin iron 
 board, and to lin. for a heavy iron or a wooden one. The 
 slot is first cut, l^in. longer at each end than the required 
 opening, then a groove, Jin. wide and deep, is ploughed on 
 each side of it for its entire length. 
 
 The head ledges are now fitted in place, projecting over 
 the keel Jin. fore and aft, to allow for caulking, and fast- 
 ened by a copper rivet through the keel and lower end of 
 each to keep the keel from splitting. The sides of the case, 
 of dry pine, are fin. thick on the lower edges, each of which 
 has a tongue on it to fit the grooves in keel, and |in. on 
 upper edges. A thread of cotton lamp wick is laid in the 
 grooves, the inner surface of the sides, as well as their lower 
 edges, the keel and the head ledges are well painted, and 
 they are put in place and driven into the grooves. Before 
 the paint is hard the sides are rivetted to the head ledges 
 with Sin. copper nails, and brass screws 8Jin. long, spaced 
 Gin. apart, are put through the keel up into the sides, the 
 holes for them being very carefully bored and countersunk 
 into the keel. If the board is hung on a bolt, the hole for it 
 must now be bored, a? it cannot be done later. 
 
 The moulds must now be fitted to their places, a small 
 piece being cut out of each to admit that part of the keel and 
 keelson inside of the bsarding line, after which, if the 
 boat is to be built with tbe keel down, the frame is placed 
 in position on the stocks, secured by a few nails driven 
 through the keel into the latter (which will be drawn and 
 the holes plugged when the boat is ready to turn over), the 
 stem and stern are plumbed with a plumb-line and fastened 
 by shores from the floor or roof, the moulds put in position, 
 adjusted by a center line from stem to stern, and also shored 
 firmly. 
 
 Tf the latter method of building is followed, the moulds 
 are screwed to the table, the frame laid on them and all 
 firmly shored from floor to ceiling. Now a ribband one-half 
 inch square is nailed along on each side, at the height of the 
 deck, beinar fastened to the stem, stern and the mould;!, and
 
 44 BUILDING. 
 
 the positions of the bulkheads and ribs are squared up 01 
 down on to them. 
 
 To prevent any leakage through the scarfs, stopwaters are 
 next put in. These are small plugs of dry pine, the holes for 
 which are bored where the seam or joint crosses the rabbet. 
 They should be bored between the inner and outer rabbet 
 lines, Fig. 12, so as to be covered by the caulking, if in a 
 large boat, or by the edge of the plank where the seam is not 
 caulked, as in a canoe. This should be done at all scarfs, 
 or where water is liable to follow a seam. 
 
 FIG. 12. 
 
 The rabbet is now completed by trimming it out with a 
 sharp chisel, using as a guide, a strip Ixjin. and long 
 enough to cross at least two moulds. This is held down 
 across the moulds, one end being applied to the rabbet, and 
 the wood cut away until the surface of the strip and the out- 
 side of stem and stern coincide. 
 
 The positions of the ribs are now laid off, as shown in Fig. 
 13, which represents the fore end of a canoe, set up on a 
 building table or bench. The distance apart of the ribs will 
 be 5in., with an intermediate rivet through each lap between 
 every pair of timbers Beginning at station 7 the spaces ot 
 5in. are laid off toward bow and stern to within a foot ol 
 each end, and marked on top and bottom of keel so as to b 
 seen from inside or outside when the plank is on, and alsl 
 squared down on the ribband
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 45 
 
 Perhaps the most difficult part of boat building, certainly 
 the most difficult to make plain to a novice, is the planking. 
 In order to obtain both strength and durability, each piece 
 must be put on in sach a way that it will bring no strain on 
 any one part, and will not itself be forced into an unnatural 
 shape, to attain which ends, though it may be bent or 
 twisted, it must not be "sprung" edgeways or in the direc- 
 tion of its breadth, or it can never be made to fit properly. 
 Although strakes are sometimes "sprung on" by experienced 
 builders, the amateur should not attempt it, as the chances 
 are that the framework will be pulled out of shape. 
 
 Before commencing to plank, the beginner can obtain an 
 idea of how the planks must lie by taking a piece of board 
 as long as tlie boat, 4 or Sin. wide and Jin. thick, tacking the 
 middle on moulds 6 and 8 at about the turn of the bilge, and 
 then bending the plank until it lies on all the other moulds, 
 but not forcing it edgeways to or from the keel. The ends 
 of course will come up higher on bow and stern than the 
 middle, and if the piece be laid in a similar manner along 
 the keel they will also be higher. The garboard streak, or 
 that next the keel, will be 4 to 5in. wide in most canoes; 
 then marking off the width desired, 4|in., for instance, on 
 moulds 6 and 8, the board mentioned above, having one 
 straight edge, is laid over the moulds, its straight edge 4in. 
 from the keel and the ends bent down and tacked to each 
 mould and the stem and stern, and a mark is made where 
 the board crosses, showing the position of the upper edge of 
 the garboard. By upper edge is meant the edge nearest the 
 gunwale, in all cases, whether the boat is built keel up or 
 otherwise. With some models it will be better to vary 
 somewhat from this line, of which the builder must judge 
 for himself, according to the circumstances of the case. 
 
 Next, to lay off the upper streak, we will take a width of 
 3^in. at midships, 2m. at bow and Ifin. at stern, marking 
 off these distances (Fig. 13) from the upper edge of the 
 streak already marked by a ribband, and putting a similar 
 ribband through these three points, bending it fair and mark- 
 ing where it crosses each mould. There should be six
 
 46 BUILDING. 
 
 streaks on each side, so there still remain four to be laid off; 
 to do which, the distance from the lower edge of the upper 
 streak to the upper edge of the gar board on bow, stern and 
 each mould is divided into four equal parts, making the 
 planks all the same width on any given mould, though of 
 course the widths on one mould differ from those on another, 
 as the planks taper toward the ends, the girths at bow and 
 stern being much less than arcidships. 
 
 The planks being laid off. the next operation is to get the 
 shape of the garboard, to do which a "staff" is necessary. 
 This is a piece of board four or five inches wide, one-quarter 
 inch thick, and as long as the boat, several, having more or 
 less curvature, being necessary for the different strakes. For 
 accurate work, especially where there is no help at hand, it 
 is best to have two short pieces, each about one foot longer 
 than half the boat's length. One of these pieces is cut roughly 
 to the shape of the forward rabbet and fastened in place 
 with a screw clamp, or a small piece of wood with a nail 
 through it called a hutchock (I) Fig. 13. It is then bent 
 carefully over the moulds as far as it will reach, and fast- 
 ened to each with a butchock. The staff should be of uni- 
 form thickness and quality so as to bend fairly, and is best 
 cut so as to lie in the rabbet, though it need not fit closely. 
 A similar piece is now fitted aft, lapping so'ne two feet over 
 the former, and the two are nailed firmly together, so as to 
 preserve their relative positions when removed from the 
 moulds. As the fitting of the garboard depends mainly on 
 the manner in which the spiling is taken, great care is 
 needed to prevent the staff springing or buckling in applying 
 it. 
 
 When it is properly adjusted a series of marks are made 
 with the rule and pencil on the rabbet line on the frame, and 
 also across the staff, about two inches apart where the line 
 is curved, as at the stem, and four inches where it is 
 straighter along the keel. These marks are to insure the 
 compasses being set at the same points in taking the spiling, 
 and in transferring from the staff to the plank afterward, as 
 will be understood later.
 
 AXATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 41
 
 43 BUILDING. 
 
 Now, with the compasses set to any convenient distance, 
 usually from two to three inches, a circle is first swept, on the 
 staff, to reset them by if accidentally changed; then one 
 point is applied to a mark on the rabbet line, as at n, and, 
 with the other, a prick mark is made on the same line, at o 
 on the staff. The compasses are applied in succession to 
 each of the other points on the rabbet line and marks made 
 on the staff, one line on the stem marked X X (m m) being 
 called a sirmark, by which the plank is finally adjusted. 
 
 Before removing the staff from the moulds the position 
 of each mould must be marked on it, as the breadths 
 will be laid off afterward at each mould. 
 
 A board is now selected free from knots, sap or checks 
 for the garboard. If it can be had planed to the thickness, 
 Jin. , much trouble will be avoided, but where this is not 
 possible, a board f or lin. thick is planed smooth on both 
 sides, the staff is taken carefully from the moulds, laid on 
 it and held by a few tacks, then with the compasses still set 
 to the same distance, the measurements are reversed, placing 
 a point of the compasses on the marks on the staff, and 
 measuring out on the board. This operation, if accurately 
 performed, will give the exact shape of the lower edge of 
 the garboard. 
 
 The sirmaik is now transferred to the board, and also the 
 position of the moulds, after which the staff is removed and 
 a batten is run through the spots, the curves on the ends 
 being drawn in with the rabbet moulds. To lay off the 
 upper edge, the breadths on the stem, stern and each mould, 
 as previously marked off, are taken and transferred to the 
 respective points on the board, an extra width of fin. being 
 added for the lap, and a line drawn through them with a 
 batten. 
 
 Some woods, cedar and oak especially, will spring or 
 change their shape when a strip is sawed off one edge, and 
 if this happens, the shape may be so altered that it will be 
 very difficult to make the plank fit. If a straight line is 
 drawn down the center of the board before sawing, and 
 then tested after one edge is sawn to shape, it will show
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 49 
 
 whether the plank has sprung at all, and if it has. a strip 
 should be sawn off the other edge, leaving the board still a 
 little wider than the finished strake will be, and then the 
 plank should be laid off anew from the staff, as in the first 
 instance, after which the edges may be planed up, with little 
 danger of further springing. 
 
 If the board is thick enough to make two strakes, gauge 
 lines are now run around the edges in. from each side, the 
 piece is laid on the saw benches, one end wedged fast be- 
 tween the two upright pieces previously mentioned, and it is 
 sawn through, using the rip saw held nearly vertical, a few 
 inches being sawn from one edge, then the piece bsing turned 
 over and sawn for a short distance from the other edge, this 
 process being repeated until the sawing is finished, as the 
 saw will certainly run if used entirely from one side 
 
 When the board is sawn in two. the pieces are each planed 
 to thickness on the inside, after which the edges must be 
 beveled to fit the rabbet. The best bevel for this purpose is 
 made of two pieces of wood fin. wide and l|in. long, one 
 piece, Jin. thick, having a saw cut in one end, in which the 
 other piece, y^in. thick, is slipped. The bevel is applied to 
 different points of the rabbet about Gin. apart in succession, 
 and the andes transferred to the respective points on the 
 strake, after which the entire edge is planed to correspond to 
 these spots. 
 
 The second or broad strake will, of course, lap over the 
 first, but at the ends the laps must diminish until the surface 
 of both planks is flush with the stem at the rabbet. To 
 secure this the adjoining surfaces of both are beveled off, 
 beginning about 18iu from each end and increasing in depth 
 until about half is Uikeii from each piece at the rabbet of 
 stem and si cru. This may be done with a rabbet plane or 
 sharp chisel. The lower edge of the broad strake is left 
 /gin. thick, a rabbet being cut in the garboard to receive it, 
 but the upper edge of the garboard is simply planed to a 
 feather edge. Before cutting this rabbet the width of uie 
 lap, fin., should be marked with a scratch gauge on the 
 outside of the garboard as a guide for setting the next plank.
 
 50 BUILDING. 
 
 All being ready, the garboard is now held in place, with 
 the help of an assistant, each part of it being tried in the 
 rabbet, to test the accuracy of the bevels. In doing this, 
 the plank is not put in place for its entire length at once, but 
 one end is tried, then the middle, and finally the other end. 
 
 The fitting being complete, the stopwaters in, and the 
 hole bored for the centerboard bolt, if any; the garboard is 
 fitted in place on the fore end, adjusted by the sirmark, tbe 
 after part being held well up by an assistant, and one or 
 more clamps are put on to hold it, then holes are bored and 
 countersunk for the screws, which will be -fin. No. 5 brass, 
 and the garboard is screwed fast a-s far as it lies in place. 
 
 In fastening such light plank, great care is needed to avoid 
 splitting it; the pieces must be in contact before the screw 
 or nail is put in, otherwise, if it is attempted to draw them 
 together with the screws, the plank will usually split. Screws 
 are only used at the extreme ends, where nails cannot be 
 driven through and riveted, but along the keel the latter are 
 put in. After the fore end is fastened, the plank is laid in 
 place along the middle of the boat and nailed, every other 
 nail being omitted to be put in after the timbers are in place, 
 after which the stern is screwed fast. 
 
 If the operations described have been carried out correctly, 
 the garboard should fit exactly without any further cutting, 
 and the greatest care should be taken to do so, as if the stmke 
 does not fit at first, it is very difficult to make it do so by 
 cutting it afterward. When both garboards are on, a spiling 
 is taken for the broad strake; it is got out and put on in a 
 similar manner, the staff, however, in this case being in one 
 length. After the strake is in place and screwed at the 
 fore end, it is fastened with clamps, and the positions of the 
 nails, omitting all that will pass through the timbers, are 
 marked off, using a thin batten bent around the boat, from 
 the marks on the keel to those on the ribband, to insure 
 the rows of nails being straight. 
 
 The nails for this work are of copper, or lin. long. As 
 the holes for them are bored, they may sometimes refuse to 
 hold at first, in which case a block of soft wood, lin. square.
 
 AMATEUR CANO& BUILDING. 51 
 
 is held inside the seam and the nail driven into it, the block 
 being removed before riveting. It may sometimes be neces- 
 sary to drive a nail through the plank into a mould, using 
 a hutchock to hold the plank down, but this should be 
 avoided if possible, as the hole will have to be plugged after- 
 ward. 
 
 To recapitulate, the process of preparing and placing a 
 plank is as follows: First, to set the staff, mark it and take 
 the spiling with the compasses, mark positions of moulds, 
 plane both f-ides of board, remove staff, place it on board, 
 nail it, spile on' on the board, mark position of mould3 on 
 latter, remove staff, mark line of lower edge through the 
 spots, lay off breadths at each mould on plank, leaving $ 
 extra for lap, line upper edge through these spots, saw out, 
 plane up edges (if a thick plank, gauge edges, slit and plane 
 insides), bevel edges, gauge upper edge on outside for lap 
 cut rabbets at each end for next plank (on the bilge it will be 
 necessary to bevd the upper edge of plank on outside for its 
 entire length), put in place, clamp, screw fore end in rabbet, 
 nail along lap, and cut and screw after end. 
 
 "Where there is a quick turn to the bilge, it is best to use 
 in. stuff for each plank, hollowing the inside with a plane, 
 and rounding the outside to fit the curve of the moulds. At 
 the ends, \\ here the laps are thinned down, tacks, % and fin. 
 long, are used instead of nails. 
 
 The planking being completed, the canoe, if built with 
 the keel up, is turned over on the stocks and shored in posi- 
 tion, the keel being blocked to the proper rocker, then the 
 ribs or timbers are sawed out of a piece of stave timber, 
 fx^in., the upper corners are rounded ofT, and if not flexible 
 enough to bend easily, they are put in the bteam box or laid 
 in boiling water. 
 
 The holes for the nails are now marked off by means of a 
 wide, thin batten, which is bent into the bottom of the boat 
 and adjusted to the mark on keel, and also so that it stands 
 uptight; then a mark is r.iadc where it crosses each lap, and 
 a hole bored in the middle of the lap with a ^-iu. German 
 bit. When all the holes are bored, the ribs are taken on
 
 52 BUILDING. 
 
 by one, bent over the knee and pressed dov/n into the bot- 
 tom of the boat , then the nails, which have previously been 
 driven lightly into the holes, are driven up through the tim- 
 ber, using a set to hold on the top of latter alongside of the 
 nail as it comes through. The lowest nail must always be 
 driven first, then the others in succession from keel to gun- 
 wale. 
 
 As many ribs as possible should be put in before the 
 moulds are removed, those alongside of the bulkheads, how- 
 ever, being omitted entirely. A nail must be put through 
 the middle of the garboard and broad into each timber. 
 After all are in, the boat is kept from spreading by means 
 of cross spalls, pieces holding the gunwales together, and 
 the moulds are removed ; the blocks are then pulled off the 
 ends of the nails, and the riveting up begins. 
 
 A copper burr or washer is slipped over a nail and driven 
 home with a burr starter, an attendant outside holding the 
 set on the head of the nail. When the burr is on, the end 
 of the nail is cut off close to it, and the projecting part 
 (about -j^in.) is headed with a few blows from a light rivet- 
 ing hammer, the tacks at the ends merely having their ends 
 turned down. After the riveting is completed the gun- 
 wales are put on. 
 
 These were formerly put inside the boat, being jogged 
 over the heads of the timbers, but a stronger and neater plan 
 is to put them outside, making them of a hard wood, pref- 
 erably mahogany. The deck is screwed to them, and they 
 serve also as chafing battens, protecting the sides. They 
 should be about Ifin. wide at middle, 1^ at fore and 1 at 
 after ends, and fin. thick. A rivet is put through the stem 
 and both fore ends, and another through the stern, thus 
 strengthening what was formerly one of the weakest points 
 of a canoe. Nails are also driven through them and the 
 upper streak and the head of each timber and riveted, 
 making a much stiffer side than the old method. After the 
 gunwales are in, the cross spalls may be shifted if necessary 
 until the curves of both sides of the boat are perfectly fair 
 and symmetrical.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 53 
 
 The bulkhead timbers will be sawed from hackmatack 
 knees fin. deep and ^in. wide. They must be fitted accur. 
 ately to place in order to make a water-tight joint, to do 
 which, a piece of thin board is cut to fit closely, the timbers 
 being; marked from it. After the timbers are fitted as tightly 
 as possible by this means, a little dark paint is laid on where 
 the timber will come, the latter is put in place and pressed 
 down, with a slight fore and aft movement, and on remov- 
 ing it, the points where it touches will be marked with paint. 
 
 These are cut away slightly, the piece replaced, and the 
 operation repeated until the paint shows on the entire sur- 
 face of the timber; it is then painted with thick white lead, 
 pressed into place, and fastened by screws or nails through 
 the planks at each lap and also in the middle of tach strake, 
 or if a wide strake, with two nails. 
 
 The bulkheads will be of white pine, fin. thick; they are 
 placed on that side of the timbers nearest the end of the 
 boat, and are riveted to them. A door is sometimes cut 
 in the bulkhead to give access to the compartment in place of 
 a deck hatch. These latter are to be avoided if possible, as 
 they are never to be relied on as water-tight, and being ex- 
 posed to rain and waves, are apt to wet all below, while a 
 door in the bulkhead, even if not tight, is only exposed to 
 water in case of a complete capsize. 
 
 It is still customary in many canors to place the floor 
 boards directly on the timbers, giving a little more space 
 below deck, but allowing the water to cover the floor if 
 there is the least leakage or a wave is shipped. A tetter 
 plan, shown in Plate IV., is to raise the floor above the 
 garboards from 14 to2in., according to the depth of the 
 boat, thus giving space below for ballast if desired, and also 
 keeping crew and stores dry, even though tliere is consid 
 erable water on board. 
 
 The floor is carried on ledges, z z, l^in. deep at the middle 
 by fin. wide, fitted closely to the planking, and secured by 
 screws through the l.nps. Small limberholes should be cut 
 in each piece to permit the free passage of water. These 
 pieces also serve to strengthen the bottom of the canoe
 
 54 BUILDING. 
 
 materially. The floor boards, n n, are in three widths, fin. 
 thick, of pine, the side pieces being screwed to the ledges, 
 while the middle piece can be lifted out to stow ballast 
 below. An oval hole in the latter piece, about under the 
 knees of the crew, holds a sponge for bailing. The deck 
 beams of pine, spruce or hackmatack are marked out 
 from a beam mould, which is made from the large drawing. 
 The amount of crown to be given to the deck must be 
 decided on by the builder. From 3 to 3in. is not too 
 much for a 30-in. boat, as the space below, for air and stow- 
 ago, is much greater than with a flat deck ; the boat will free 
 herself from a wave quicker, and there is nothing to be said 
 against it. Before putting in the deck beams the timbers 
 must be cut off level with the gunwale, and the latter planed 
 down until the sheer is perfectly fair from end to end, the 
 beam mould being used at th j same time as a guide by which 
 to bevel the gunwali s to suit the deck beams. The latter 
 are spaced about as shown in the drawing, being fastened 
 by a Sin. brass screw through gunwale and upper streak 
 into each end. The beams will be lin. deep and ^in. wide, 
 except the partner beam that supports the mainmast, which 
 will be 4in. wide, so as to take a 2iin. hole for the mast 
 tube, and the beams under the butts of the deck, which will 
 he IJin. wide. 
 
 Canoe decks are sometimes laid in but two pieces, with 
 one seam only, down the center, but while this makes a very 
 handsome deck it is necessary to take off the entire half 
 deck every time that repairs or alterations are to be made. 
 It is often desirable to open one of the end compartments, 
 and to do this quickly the decks are now very often laid in 
 six or more pieces, one joint being over the forward bulk- 
 head and one over the after one. At these points the beams 
 are made l^in. wide and but fin. deep, each piece of deck 
 lapping in. on the beam. After the beams are in, ridge 
 pieces are fitted down the center of the deck fore and aft 
 of the well. They are from 2 to 4in. wide, according to 
 the size of the masts, and fin. thick, being halved down into 
 the deck beams and bulkheads and nailed to them. The
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 55 
 
 holes for the mast tubes are now bored, the steps of oak are 
 fitted and securely screwed or riveted to the keel and the 
 mast tubes put in place. These arc of copper rr brass, the 
 ends soldered up so that they are perfectly watertight. The 
 upper ends are slightly flanged over the ridge pieces, with a 
 little lamp wick and paint under the flange to make a tight 
 joint. Plugs are sometimes put in the bulkheads to drain 
 off any leakage, and the holes for them should be bored 
 now, as low down as possible. The frame work of the well 
 consists of two fore and aft pieces of spruce, v v, $ xl^in. 
 sprung partly to the shape of the well, the ends nailed to 
 the deck beams and bulkhead, and also of two curved 
 chocks, r r, at the forward end, completing the pointed form 
 of the cockpit. The side decks are also supported by four 
 knees, y y, on each side, sawn from oak fin. thick and 
 screwed or riveted to the planking, a brass screw liin. long 
 passing through the gunwale into each, while the side 
 pieces, v v, are screwed to the inner ends. 
 
 Before putting in the coaming, the decks, which will be 
 of Jin. mahogany or Spanish cedar, should be cut and fitted 
 roughly to the outline of the well, the final fitting being done 
 after the coamings are in. These should be of clear tough 
 white oak, Jin. thick. Their shape is taken by means of a 
 thin staff sprung into the well, the upper and lower edges of 
 the side pieces being marked on it. The pointed coamings 
 now generally preferred are from 3 to 3^in. high forward, 
 sloping to l^in. amidships and aft, the after end being either 
 round or square. The coamings are riveted to the side pieces 
 and the after piece to the deck beam or bulkhead, a piece of 
 fin. mahogany, q, being fitted in the angle forward, to 
 strengthen it, and also to hold cleats and belaying pins. 
 
 The other fittings, described in the following chapter, such 
 as side flaps, footgear, tabernacle, etc., are now put in, then 
 the boat is turned over and the outside smoothed down, using 
 fine sandpaper and a file on the nail heads; the stem band, of 
 i\in. half-round brass, is drilled and put on, the rudder braces 
 are fitted and riveted fast, and sometimes bilge keels, which 
 are strips of hard oak $in. square and about 4ft. long, are
 
 56 BUILDING. 
 
 screwed to the bottom about over the second lap, protecting 
 the boat in hauling up. 
 
 The outside of the boat aiid the inside of well has now a 
 coat of raw linseed oil, and the inside of the compartments, 
 the bottom, under the floor, and the deck frame, is painted 
 with white lead and oil, sufficient black being added to make 
 a lead color. Now, the bulkheads should be tested, to do 
 which the boat is securely blocked up a short distance above 
 the floor, and each bulkhead in turn filled with water, the 
 leaks, if any, being carefully noted and marked. After the 
 ends are tested, the water may be bailed into the middle of 
 the boat, and the kaks there marked also. When these have 
 been made tight, the decks may be laid, the pieces being 
 first fitted, and then the under side of them b:-ing painted, 
 and the edges of the gunwales, ridge pieces and bulkheads 
 being also covered with thick paint or varnish. While this 
 is fresh the pieces of deck are laid in place and fastened with 
 fin. No. 5 brass screws, placed Sin. apart, along the gun- 
 wales, ridge pieces, deck beams, bulkheads and side pieces 
 of the well. In all the older canoes the screw heads were 
 countersunk and puttied over, but it is customary now only 
 to screw them flush with the wood, allowing the head to 
 show. If puttied over it is difficult to remove them, and 
 the decks will be more or less defaced in clearing out the 
 hard putty in order to do so. 
 
 After the deck is on, enough quarter-round beading of 
 mahogany must be got out to go around the well, and also 
 some half-round, to cover the seam down the center of the 
 deck. These are nailed with half-inch brass or copper nails. 
 The decks are next oiled, the mast plates, cleats, screw eyes, 
 and other fittings screwed fast, the rudder, hatches, etc. 
 completed, and all the outside of hull and inside of the well 
 is varnished with some variety of wood filler, of which there 
 are several in the market. This first coat is merely to fill the 
 grain of the wood, and has no polish of its own. After it is 
 thoroughly dry, a coat of spar composition should be given, 
 and allowed full time to dry before using the boat.
 
 CANOE FITTINGS. 
 
 V\7 HILE the first requisite in a canoe is a properly-de- 
 signed and constructed hull, there are a number of 
 minor parts, generally summed up under the head of "Fit- 
 tings," that are hardly less essential to safety, comfort and 
 convenience, and which, with the sails and rigging, make up 
 a complete craft. Perhaps a more correct term for these 
 numerous details would be equipment, but the word fittings 
 is generally used. 
 
 THE WELL. 
 
 This feature distinguishes the modern canoe from its sav- 
 age progenitors, as, excepting the kayak, savage canoes are 
 undecked, and its shape and position are important consid- 
 erations. As a general rule, the smaller the well, the better; 
 as less water can get below, there is more covered stowage 
 room, and the boat is much stronger; but, on the other hand, 
 there must be an opening long enough to permit sleeping, 
 storing long spars below, giving access to hatches below 
 deck, and, on occasion, taking a companion. The wells of 
 the early Rob Ro^s were elliptical, 20in. wide and 32 to 
 86in. long, requiring no hatch, the coaming, 1m. high 
 above deck, being bent in one piece, as in the drawing. 
 This small well, resembling that of the kayak, was almost 
 a necessity, as the boat was so low and wet in rough 
 water. 
 
 A step in advance was the old Nautilus well, which was 
 from 4ft. Sin. to 5ft long, and 20in. wide, a length of 
 16 ; n. being shut off by a movable bulkhead just abaft the
 
 58 CANOE FITTINGS. 
 
 crew's back; this portion being covered by a movable hatch, 
 with a similar hatch at the forward end, leaving an opening 
 of 2ft. or a little more for the crew. This well, with its 
 ugly octagonal form, while a decided improvement in many 
 ways, more than any other feature earned for the canoe the 
 dismal epithet of coffiu, once so frequently applied to it; 
 besides which, owins to the number of pieces (eight) it gave 
 no strength to the deck, and the joints soon opened and leaked, 
 while the almost square end forward did not throw the watei 
 from the deck, but sent spray back over the crew. 
 
 In 1878 the Shadow canoe came out with an elliptical well 
 20in. by 5ft. , covered by four hatches, so arranged as to close 
 the well entirely in shipping the cauoe; or by removing one 
 or two hatches, making room for the crew when afloat. The 
 first point was a decided advantage, but it was found in 
 cruising that on a warm day the canoe became very hot 
 below with hatches fitting closely around the canoeist, and 
 when they were removed there was no room for them unless 
 piled three high forward, and liable to be lost overboard. 
 
 At the same time the first Jersey Blue canoe appeared with 
 a rectangular well 18in. by oft., 1ft. beiug abaft the crew, 
 the coaming at sides of weil extending over the forward deck 
 and forming slides for a sliding hatch, which could be 
 quickly pulled aft. covering as much of the well as desired, 
 while a rubber apron, kept rolled up on top of the hatch, 
 completed the covering. This arrangement answered the 
 purpose of protection, but the square corners and sliding 
 hatch were clumsy and heavy in appearance. 
 
 At the same time a canoe was built in Harlem having a 
 pointed coaming forward, with a slight flare, the first of its 
 kind, in America at least, and in 1880 the Sandy Hook and 
 Jersey Blue canoes were fitted with pointed coamings, but 
 not flaring, the first of the style cow so common being put 
 In the Dot in place of the Shadow well in 1881. 
 
 This form of well, shown in Plate IV., is in outline 
 similar to a Gothic arch, and in addition the sides flare 
 outward, throwing off all spray at the sides. The after 
 end is made either round or square, tbe latter giving
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 59 
 
 
 VOC(AA'
 
 60 CANOE F1T1INGS. 
 
 more room when two are carried. A chock of mahogany 
 (g) in the drawing, is fitted in the angle, belaying pins 
 or cleats being sometimes put on it. This form of 
 coaming is well fitted to hold an apron, the fore end of 
 which, being fitted to the point of the coaming, cannot wash 
 off, and no spray can beat in under it. The well may be 
 partly or entirely covered by hatches, as desired. 
 
 Another important feature in a well is its width, which 
 must be regulated by the size and intended use of the canoe. 
 In a narrow and shoal boat, such as the Rob Roy, a width of 
 18in. will be enough, as the side decks will be wider and less 
 water will come over the side, while the crew can still lean 
 out to windward, but in a wider and deeper boat there is less 
 danger of water over the side, and the coaming being higher 
 above the floor will interfere with the crew leaning over, and 
 therefore should be made wider, the usual width being 20in. 
 
 American practice in canoe sailing, especially in racing, 
 differs materially from the English; the crew, in America, 
 almost invariably being seated on the weather deck, in sail- 
 ing to windward, the feet braced under the lee deck, the body 
 leaning well to windward, and the steering being done by 
 means of a tiller on the after deck, but in England the crew 
 is seated low down in the canoe, a portion of the deck abreast 
 the body being cut away and the opening closed at will by a 
 hinged flap, the weather ono being closed and the lee one 
 opened at the end of each tack, only the head and shoulders 
 being above deck, offering but little surface to the wind. 
 With this arrangement a narrow well is allowable. 
 
 That canoeists may judge for themselves as to the value of 
 this feature for their work, we quote from the London Field 
 the opinions of Messrs. Baden-Powell and Tredwen concern- 
 ing them. The former gentleman says: "In describing the 
 canoe fittings of the present day, the side deck flaps must not 
 be omitted. In a sailing canoe it is all important, but 1 do 
 not admit its great utility in a traveling canoe, at least not for 
 general work. "Whore the chief work is to be lake sailing, side 
 flaps will be very useful ; but where much hauling out and 
 jumping in and out is to be the order of the day, side flaps
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 61 
 
 are utterly out of place. The side flap was first introduced 
 in the Rob Roy in 1868, but did not appear in the next edi- 
 tion of that name. It has, however, now become a general 
 favorite, and it is to be found in every sailing canoe. If 
 fitted to the traveling canoe, the after end of the flap should 
 be just forward of the backboard beam, and it should be 
 strongly hinged at the outer edge; and, in short, strongly 
 fitted in every way, as it is just about the place that one's 
 hands lay hold of to raise the body in case of a sudden jump 
 up or out. A broken, and perhaps lost overboard, flap would 
 be a dangerous mishap to a canoe, if caught at the time in a 
 breeze at a mile or two from land." 
 
 Mr. Tredweu, after describing some of the canoes that lie 
 has designed and built during the past fifteen years, con 
 linues: "It has already been observed that the flap side decks 
 have not been fitted to all the Pearl canoes, and that where a 
 canoe has been built with them, they have been subsequently 
 discarded, and that the next canoe built without them has 
 subsequently been altered by the addition of this contri- 
 vance. The result of this varied experience is to establish 
 them as a very valuable adjunct to a cruising canoe if prop- 
 erly applied and fitted, otherwise they are better omitted. 
 There are two essentials be.-ides the flaps themselves, consist- 
 ing of two sets of coamings around the openings cut in the 
 deck. The first coamings are parallel and close to the cuts 
 across the deck, and consequently at right angles with the 
 ordinary well coamings, and are screwed securely to the 
 deck, and their inboard ends butt on to the well coamings. 
 They entirely prevent any leakage along the deck from for- 
 ward or aft, into the openings of the flap side deck. 
 
 "The second set of coamings are placed transversely, hinged 
 to the deck, and when raised their iuboard ends fit closely 
 against the beading or coaming of the hatch cover; and they 
 are net intended to exclude leakage along the deck, but they 
 serve as catches around which the mackintosh coat fits, to 
 prevent any sea breaking into the well. The inboard ends 
 must therefore project about half an inch above the hatch 
 cover when they are raised. Many canoes have had these
 
 2 CANOE FITTINGS. 
 
 hinged coamings fitted without the fixed coamings, and with- 
 out sufficient width to project above the hatch cover, and as 
 they neither exclude water running back along the deck, nor 
 provide a holdfast for the mackintosh, the whole contri- 
 vance has been condemned. " 
 
 In this country the first step in this direction was in the 
 Elfin, a ISew York canoe, which in 1878 had her coamings 
 cut and hinged; the first real side flaps being put in the 
 Sandy Hook in 1881, since which they have been tried in 
 various canoes, but have not come into general use. Their 
 construction is shown in .the drawings. 
 
 In the Pearl canoe, the well, which is almost rectangular, 
 is covered by a forward hatch in two parts, the after poition, 
 extending to the body, being hinged to the forward part, so 
 as to lie flat on it, when opened. On its after end is a bead- 
 ing, over which the skirt of the canoe jacket is drawn, this 
 skirt also being held, by a rubber band run around its lower 
 edga^ to a similar beading on the after hatch, and to the 
 hinged coamings described; the deck flaps opening inside the 
 wide skirt, so that there is no entrance for water below. 
 Where it is desired to close the canoe entirely, the well is 
 covered by three or four hatches, fitting closely together, as 
 shown in the drawing of the Shadow. These are held down 
 by a bar running over them fore and aft, one end of which 
 is inserted in an eyebolt at fore end of well, the other pad- 
 locking to a similar bolt aft. 
 
 APRONS. 
 
 In rainy weather or in rough water it is necessary to cover 
 the well entirely, either by hatches or by an apron fitting 
 closely around the body. The simplest form of apron, and 
 one especially adapted to the pointed coaming, is a cover of 
 cloth, cut to the shape of the coaming and turned down on 
 the edges, to button over screw heads in the latter, near the 
 deck. It also extends aft about 6iu. over the hatch or deck 
 immediately behind the back. A hole is cut for the body of
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 63 
 
 the canoeist, and around the edge a piece (a) 6in. wide is 
 stitched, so as to be drawn around the body. This piece is 
 long enough to lap, as at (b), and button on one side. That 
 portion of the apron abaft the body is held down by a cord 
 (c) made fast to cleats or scrcwcyes on deck, the apron not 
 being buttoned to coaming abreast of the body. 
 
 A beam (cl), to which the apron, just forward of the body, 
 is nailed, keeps it arched so as to shed all water. If a for- 
 ward hatch is used, the fore end of apron may be buttoned 
 to it. In case of a capsize, the after part will pull from 
 under the cord, and the canoeist is free, the apron remain- 
 ing on the coaming. Instead of a buttonhole on the flap, a 
 loop of light twine should be used, so as to break at once, if 
 necessary. 
 
 * Another device is the telescopic apron devised by Mr. 
 Farnham, which consists of a wire framework covered with 
 oiled cloth. This framework is composed of several brass 
 or German silver tubes (e), one sliding in another, as in a 
 telescope, and also of carlins (/) of ^-in. spring brass wire, 
 soldered or brazed, as shown, to collars (g) on the tubes. The 
 ends of these carlins are turned, as shown, to engage under 
 the beading on the outer edge of the coaming, and are also 
 bent into loops to avoid cutting the cloth. On the after end 
 a piece of -^ wire (//), bent to a curve, is brazed, being also 
 brazed to the after carlin. This wire should extend 2in. aft 
 of the sliding bulkhead to i. Forward of the well is a block 
 screwed to the deck, and to it the first tube is pivoted by a 
 universal joint, permitting a side motion to the framework, 
 but holding it down forward, or it may be held by a strap, 
 as shown. When the frame is drawn into position, the ends 
 of the carlins, hooking under the beading, hold it down, and 
 the curved ends of the piece (h) hook over blocks (/) on each 
 side, keeping all in position. 
 
 The cover is of stout muslin, cut about Sin. larger each 
 way than the coaming, so as to turn down, an elastic cord 
 being run in the hem to draw it tight. Before sewing the 
 cover to the frame, the ends of the carlins and all sharp 
 corners or edges are covered with leather, so as to avoid 
 
 * See page 133.
 
 64 APRONS. 
 
 cutting the cover. Extra strips are sewn on the lower side, 
 under the carlins, to hold down the cover. For rough water 
 an extra apron is used, being a short skirt, fitting under the 
 arras, the lower edge gathered in by an elastic cord. An 
 extra wire (k) is attached to the framework, forming a coam- 
 ing on the after end of the apron, and a wooden coaming 
 also runs across the after hatch. The lower edge of the 
 skirt is drawn over these coamings, and also over two knobs 
 (Z) at the sides, the elastic holding all in place. 
 
 The apron on a Rob Roy or small canoe is sometimes held 
 down by a strip of wood (m) on either side of the coaming, 
 to which the apron is tacked, each strip having a flat brass 
 hook (H) to hold it to the coaming, the forward end of apron 
 being held down by a rubber cord passing around the fore 
 end of well. 
 
 The material for an apron should be stout muslin, and 
 after being cut and sewed it should be stretched tightly, 
 well dampened, and coated with, a mixture of turpentine one 
 part, boiled linseed oil three parts, and raw oil six parts, 
 laid on very thin, a second coat being given when the first 
 is perfectly dry. To complete the covering of the well, 
 either with hatches or aprons, a waterproof coat is neces- 
 sary, made in the form of a loose shirt, opening about 6in. 
 in front, the sleeves being gathered in at the wrists with 
 elastic. The coat is just long enough to touch the floor 
 when seated, and it should have a flounce outside, just under 
 the arms, and long enough to fasten over the coamings, or 
 hinged pieces of the side flaps, if the latter are used, the 
 coat being full enough to allow them to be opened inside of 
 it. To put on the coat it is rolled into a ring, slipped 
 quickly over the head, the arms thrust into the sleeves, after 
 which it may be adjusted at leisure. Care should be taken 
 in putting it on, as an upset while entangled in it would be 
 serious. 
 
 A seat of some kind is necessary in a canoe; it should 
 be as low as possible, in order to keep the weight down, but 
 still high enough to be comfortable when paddling. In a 
 boat of llin. or more depth the crew must sit several
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 65 
 
 B 
 
 CANOE APROXS, ETC.
 
 G6 APRONS. 
 
 inches above the bottom to paddle comfortably, and in such 
 a boat a high seat allows the body to lean further to wind- 
 ward; but in a shoal boat all that is necessary is a small 
 cushion on the floor boards. 
 
 The tent, clothes bag or blankets may serve as a seat, 
 though it is better that all bedding should be stowed below 
 deck and out of the reach of any moisture. Some canoes are 
 fitted with a seat of pressed wood, such as is used for chair- 
 seats, and in some cases the seat is simply a box without top 
 or bottom, about lOin. square and Sin. deep, the top being 
 covered with canvas, or leather straps. 
 
 A feature that is peculiar to the canoe, and that adds 
 greatly to the comfort of the canoeist, is the backboard, 
 usually a framework with two vertical strips joined by two 
 crosspieces, as shown at o, and hung from the shifting bulk- 
 head by a strap. The vertical pieces are 2}in. wide and 
 f thick, slightly rounded on the fore side, and are placed 2J 
 inches apart, thus supporting the back on either side of the 
 backbone, and the crosspieces are rivetted to them. 
 Sometimes a flat board, about 8xl2in., is used, either 
 with or without a cushion ; but the frame is better. For 
 paddling double, an extra beam is used across the cockpit, 
 with a backboard hung on it for the forward man, or a seat 
 is made of two pieces of board hinged together, one forming 
 the back, being supported by a brace hinged to it (p). This 
 back may be used at any point desired, being independent 
 of the well and coaming, and the angle of the back may be 
 changed at will, while it is easily folded and stowed away 
 when not in use. 
 
 To increase the stowage room and to secure a better dispo- 
 sition of weights fore and aft, hatches are sometimes cut in 
 the deck, but to be really valuable, two points are essential 
 which have never yet been obtained ; they must be quickly 
 opened and closed, and airtight when closed. As good a 
 method as any is to make a regular coaming to the opening 
 in the deck f to lin. high, the hatch fitting on to this coam- 
 ing with a beading projecting down, two thumb screws 
 being used to secure it. Its water-tight qualities may be im-
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 67 
 
 proved by a square of rubber cloth laid over the opening 
 before putting on the hatch. This hatch is heavy and 
 clumsy in appearance compared with hatches flush with the 
 deck, but the latter always leak, and are never to be relied on. 
 
 In some cases where it may be desirable to get at the in- 
 side of the compartments occasionally for repairs, a hatch 
 may be cut in the deck and covered with a piece of Jin. 
 mahogany decking, lin. larger each way than the opening, 
 and fastened by brass screws as the deck is, the laps being 
 first painted. This piece will be airtight and yet can be re- 
 moved and replaced in a few minutes when repairs are 
 needed. 
 
 For transporting the canoe on shore a yoke is necessary, and 
 may be made in several ways, the simplest form being that 
 used for the guides' boats in the Adirondacks, a piece of 
 wood (r) hollowed to fit over the shoulders and around the 
 neck, the boat, bottom up of course, resting with one gun- 
 wale on each end of the yoke. Another form is a box 
 () with no top or bottom, long enough to fit in the width of 
 the well, and having two straps (t) across one side, which 
 rest on the shoulders; the coaming of the boat resting on 
 the ends of the box. 
 
 A plan lately devised by Mr. Farnham employs a franie 
 of four pieces, which also serves in place of a sliding bulk- 
 head. When used as a yoke, two straps are buckled across 
 it and support it on the shoulders, the boat being inverted 
 on it. 
 
 PADDLES. 
 
 The principal point of difference between a canoe and 
 other boats, is the mode of propulsion, the paddle being held 
 and supported by both hands, while in boats the oar or scull 
 is supported on the boat, and its motion is directed by the 
 hand. The former is the primitive mode, and even to-day 
 the craft used by sivagc tribes are propelled almost entirely 
 by paddles, the oar being used by civilized nations 
 
 The shape of the padd!e differs greatly in various localities,
 
 08 PADDLES. 
 
 but two forms only are known to modern canoeists, the 
 single blade, shown in the center of the accompanying 
 plate, and the double blade, various forms of wMch are 
 also shown. The former, derived from the North American 
 Indians, is about 5^ft. long, with a blade Sin. wide, and is 
 made of maple, beech, or spruce. The upper end is fash- 
 ioned so as to fit easily in the hand, the fingers being doubled 
 over the top. The single paddle is used continuously on the 
 same side of the boat, and its motion, in skilled hands, is 
 noiseless. 
 
 The double paddle, the one best known in connection with 
 modern canoes from the time of MacGregor, is derived 
 directly from the Esquimau and his kayak. The length 
 varies with the beam of the canoe, from 7 to 9ft. , the former 
 size being the one first used with the small cinoes, but a 
 gradual increase in length has been going on for some years, 
 and of late many canoeists have adopted 9ft. instead of 8, as 
 formerly, for boats of 30in. beam and over. Various patterns 
 of paddles, as made by different builders, are shown in the 
 plate, half of each paddle only being given. The blades vary 
 in width from 6 to 7in., and in length from 18 to 20in. 
 
 Paddles of over 7ft. arc usually cut iu two and jointed, the 
 joint consisting of two brass tubes, the larger one 5Jin. long 
 and from 1,-,; to 1,V outside diameter, the smaller one 2|in. 
 long, and fitting tightly inside the former. The sho:t piece 
 is sometimes fitted with a small pin, fitting notches in the 
 Xonger piece, so that when the paddle is set, either with both 
 blades in the same plane, or if paddling against the wind, 
 the blades at right angles, no further motion is permitted in 
 the joint; but this pton is not advisable, as when the joint 
 sticks, as it often will, it is necessary to turn the paits to 
 loosen them, which of course the pin prevents. 
 
 Tips of sheet brass or copper are put on the ends to pre- 
 serve them from injury against stones and logs in pushing 
 off. Pine or spruce are the best materials for paddles of this 
 style. To prevent the water dripping down on the hands, 
 rubber washers arc used, or two round rubber bands on each 
 end, about <5in. apart, will answer the same purpose. One
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 CANOE P ADDLE H.
 
 70 SAILS AND RIGGING. 
 
 half of the double paddle is sometimes used as a single blade, 
 an extra piece, similar to the head shown on the double blade, 
 being inserted in the ferrule; or when sailing, one half, 
 lengthened out by a handle 18in. long, may be carried on 
 deck, ready for any emergency, the other half being stowed 
 below. The half paddle, in this case, is held with the blade 
 under a cord stretched over the forward deck, the after end 
 being held by a cord looped over a cleat abreast the body. 
 For racing and light paddling, spoon blades are used, the 
 general outline being the same as the straight blades, but the 
 latter are stronger and better for cruising work. 
 
 SAILS AND RIGGING. 
 
 The success of a canoe as a sailing craft depends largely 
 on the proportioning of the sails to the boat and the 
 work to be done on their proper fitting, and on the perfec- 
 tion of all the smaller details of the rigging. Almost every 
 known rig has been tried on canoes, all but a few having 
 been in time rejected, so that to-day but three types are at 
 all popular with canoeists the leg of mutton, the lateen, 
 and the lug. 
 
 Before deciding on the shape of the sails, the first question 
 is, How much sail to carry? a question only to be decided 
 by a comparison with other boats and their rigs. Attempts 
 have been made to formulate expressions by which the area 
 of sail may be calculated when the dimensions and weight 
 of the boat are known; but in a canoe the greatest elements 
 in carrying sail are the personal qualities of the canoeist, his 
 skill, activity, dariug, prudence and good judgmei.t; and 
 their value is easily appreciated when on the same canoe one 
 man can carry 100 square feet of sail, while another will 
 hardly be safe with rif ty. This being the case it is impos- 
 sible to calculate what area a canoe will carry, but a com- 
 parison with similar boats will give the average cruising rig, 
 the canoeist making such an addition to it as he considers 
 will suit his individual wants.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 71 
 
 Another uncertain element in carrying sail is the charae 
 ter of the water on which most of the work is done. If on 
 a river or lake, among hills, where squalls are sudden and 
 violent, the sails should be small, and the arrangements for 
 f arling and reefing them as complete and reliable as possible; 
 if on open water, where the wind is strong but steady, a 
 large sail may be carried, fitted with an ample reef for 
 rough weather. 
 
 Whatever area be chosen, the almost universal practice 
 with canoeists is to carry two sails. The cat rig, though 
 simple, requires larger and heavier spars, a large boom and 
 a high center of effort, and is more difficult to handle, as far 
 as setting, furling and stowing sail, than the main und miz- 
 /en rig; and, on the other hand, a jib has been proved to be 
 of little use, as it is difficult to set in a boat where the crew 
 cannot go forward; a number of lines are needed, it requires 
 constant attention, is useless when running, and of little 
 benefit when doing its best. By having the bulk of the sail 
 forward, it can be easily reached, is always in sight, draws 
 well when running, and can be quickly spilled without 
 losing the power of luffing, while the mizzen aft requires 
 very little attention, luffs the boat promptly and keeps way 
 on her, and even if neglected, can do little but bring her into 
 the wind. 
 
 In a long, narrow boat like the canoe, the sail should be 
 spread well fore and aft, long and low, rather than narrow 
 and high, as the propelling power will be as great, and the 
 heeling or capsizing power much less, and this end is best 
 attained with the main and mizzen rig. 
 
 In order to obtain a proper balance of the sails, it is ne- 
 cessary that their common center or the point at which, if a 
 force were applied, it would balance the pressure of the wind 
 on the sails, which point is called the center of effort, should 
 be nearly in the same vertical line with the center of lateral 
 resistance of the hull, which lattor is the point at which, if 
 a string were attached, and the boat, with rudder amidships 
 and centerboards down, were drawn sideways, it would 
 advance at right angles to the string, neither bow nor stern
 
 72 SAILS AND RIGGING. 
 
 being ahead. These points would be described in technical 
 language as the common center of gravity of the sails, and 
 the center of gravity of the immersed vertical longitudinal 
 section, including rudder and centerboard. 
 
 The center of lateral resistance can be ascertained by 
 drawing accurately to scale, on a piece of cardboard the 
 outline of that portion of the hull below the watt-riine, in- 
 cluding rudder, keel or board, taking it from the sheerplan, 
 then cutting out the piece and balancing it on a fine needle 
 stuck in a cork. The point on which it will balance is the 
 center of lateral resistance. 
 
 To ascertain the center of effort, some calculation is ne- 
 cessary. A sail draft is first made showing the sails, masts, 
 hull and center of lateral resistance, the scale being usually 
 i or ^in. to the foot for a canoe or small boat. 
 
 First, to determine the area of the sail , if triangular, a line 
 is drawn from one angle perpendicular to the opposite side, 
 or to that side produced. Then the area will be equal to 
 one-half of the side multiplied by the distance from the side 
 to the angle ; for instance, in the triangle B C D in the first 
 figure, which represents the calculations for a sail of 89 
 square feet, a line perpendicular to C D would not pass 
 through B; so C D is produced to g then 12ft. 3in.x7ft. Gin. 
 -=91. 87+2=45. 9ft., area of BCD. If the sail is not tri- 
 angular it may be divided into several triangles, each being 
 computed separately. The sail shown will first be divided 
 by the line C D from throat to clew; the area of B C D 
 has been ascertained to be 45.9ft., and similarly the area of 
 A C D is 42.9, then the antire area will be 88.8ft. A shorter 
 rule, and one that in most sails is sufficiently correct, is to 
 multiply the distance A B by C D, and to take half of the 
 product, but in a high, narrow sail, this would not answer, 
 as in this case, where 16ft. 4in.xl2ft. Sin. =200+2= 100ft., 
 or an error of 1 1ft. 
 
 The area being known, the center of gravity of each tri- 
 angle is next found by drawing a line from the middle of one 
 side to the opposite angle, and laying off J- of this line, as in 
 the triangle, BCD, where half of C D is taken at a, a line,
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILU1SG. 73 
 
 a B, drawn, and $ of it taken, giving the point d, the center 
 of the triangle. The point c is found in a similar manner, 
 
 and we know that their common center of gravity must be 
 on the line c d. Now, dividing the sail by a line, A B, into
 
 74 SAILS AND RIGGING. 
 
 another set of triangles, ABC and A B D, we find their 
 centers at e and/, and drawing the line e f, its intersection 
 with c d will be the center of gravity, and consequently 
 center of effort, of the entire sail. 
 
 To determine the common center of two or more sails, a 
 vertical line is drawn just ahead of the forward sail, and the 
 distance of the center of each sail from this line is measured 
 and multiplied by the area of the sail. In the drawing, 
 showing two balance lugs of 45 and 20ft., the cruising rig. 
 for a 14x30 canoe, these figures would be 40x5ft. 2in.=232, 
 and 20xl3f t. 7in.=273, or 505. Now, dividing this sum by 
 the total area of the sails, or 65ft., we have 5 6 a 5 5 =7.77, or 7ft 
 9in., the distance of the center of effort from the vertical 
 line. In this case, the center of effort of the sails and the 
 center of lateral resistance of the hull will fall in the same 
 vertical. 
 
 To be safe, a boat should always carry sufficient weather 
 helm to luff easily, or in other words, when sailing on the 
 wind, the leverage of the after sail should be enough to re- 
 quire that the helm be carried slightly on the weather side 
 to prevent her coming up into the wind, then if it be left 
 free she will luff instantly. To do this requires in theory 
 that the center of effort should be aft of the center of lateral 
 resistance, but in the calculations it is assumed that both 
 sails and hull are plane surfaces, while in reality they are 
 both curved and the wind pressure is distributed unequally 
 over the sails; while the pressure of the wave on the lee bow, 
 aided by a decrease of pressure under the lee quarter, tend 
 to shove the boat to windward, independently of her sails, so 
 that she will have a greater weather helm in any case than the 
 calculations show, varying with the fullness of her bows, 
 and the center of effort may often be placed some distance 
 ahead of the center of lateral resistance. 
 
 It will be seen from this that such calculations are not 
 absolutely exact, but they are the best guides we have, and 
 if the calculated centers, and actual working in practice of 
 different boats are recorded, a comparison will show what 
 allowance is necessary in the case of a similar boat.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 75 
 
 In planning a canoe's sails then, three things should be 
 kept in view; to distribute the sail well fore and aft, keep- 
 ing a low center of effort ; to keep the latter about over the 
 
 Tffs 
 
 center of lateral resistance, and to keep as short a main boom 
 as is consistent with the first point. 
 In order that a boat should sail equalVy well with her
 
 76 SAILS AND RIGGING. 
 
 board up or down, the center of the board should come 
 under the center of lateral resistance, otherwise, if the board 
 be forward and the boat balances with it lowered, on raising 
 it, the center of lateral resistance at once moves aft, and the 
 center of effort being unchanged, the greater leverage is for- 
 ward, and the boat's head falls off. 
 
 If it is necessary to place the board well forward, it may 
 be done by using a small mizzen, a reef being shaken out in 
 it when the board is raised. A mainsail is sometimes rigged 
 and tried with a cheaply made mizzen of any shape until the 
 proper balance is obtained, when a suitable mizzen is rigged 
 permanently. 
 
 The simplest rig for a canoe is the leg of mutton, or, as 
 it is sometimes called, sharpie rig, consisting of two tri- 
 angular sails, requiring only mast, boom, halliard and sheet, 
 and on a narrow boat, where but a small area can be carried, 
 they will answer very well, but where a large spread is 
 needed, the spars must be so long as to be unmanageable; 
 for instance, to spread 60 square feet, with an 8ft. boom, 
 would require a mast 16ft. above the deck. Another disad- 
 vantage is the necessity of using rings on the mast, as they 
 are liable to jam in hoisting and lowering. 
 
 A simple sail, once used on canoes, is the spritsail, but it 
 was abandoned on account of the difficulty of handling the 
 sprit in so small a boat. The ordinary boom and gaff sail is 
 also objectionable as it requires two halliards and the rings 
 on the mast, are apt to jam. 
 
 The lateen sail, as adapted by Lord Ross, is much used 
 on canoes, especially the smaller ones. It has the ad- 
 vantages of a short mast, low center of effort, and few lines ; 
 but the yard and boom must be very long, the sail cannot be 
 furled or reefed when before the wind, and it is not suited 
 for large areas. The lateens introduced by the Cincinnati 
 C. C. are practically leg of mutton sails, the yard peaking 
 up into the position of a topmast, as shown in the drawing. 
 The ordinary lateen rig consists of a triangular sail laced to 
 a yard and boom, both spars being jointed together at the 
 tack, and a pole mast with a spike several inches long on
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 77
 
 78 SAILS AND RIGGING. 
 
 top. A brass ring is lashed to the yard near its lower end, 
 and a jaw (a) of wood or metal is fastened to the boom, a 
 short distance from the forward end. In selling the sail, 
 the yard is lifted until the ring can be hooked over the spike 
 on the mast, then the boom is drawn back, lifting the yard, 
 and the jaw is dropped in place around the mast, the oper- 
 ation being reversed in taking in sail. 
 
 The following method of reefing the lateen (see p. 83) was de 
 vised by Gen. Oliver, of the Mohican C. C. The fore end of 
 the boom is fitted with a jaw (b) which encircles the mast when 
 the sail is set, making a leg of mutton sail, while on the boom 
 is a jaw (a). In reefing, the jaw (b) is removed from the mast, 
 allowing the boom to come forward until a touches the mast, 
 the slack of the sail being taken in by a reef line, d d d. 
 One end of this line is made fast at the tack, it is then rove 
 through grommets in the sail, and the other end made fast 
 on the leach, the slack being taken in by hooking the cord 
 over a screweye (e) on the boom forward, and another aft. 
 Another similar plan dispenses with the jaw on the end of 
 the boom, using instead a second jaw on the boom near the 
 first, the shape of the sail being a little different, but the 
 details of reef line, etc., the same. 
 
 Another sail devised by Gen. Oliver, and called by him the 
 "Mohican" sail, is intended to combine the short boom and 
 facility in reefing of the balance lug with the short mast of 
 the lateen.* 
 
 Fig. A represents the sail set. The short mast with pin, 
 and the spars toggled together of the Ross lateen, are used 
 with the addition of a jaw at the end of boom. The sail is 
 set in the usual lateen manner, and the spar, B, becomes vir- 
 tually a high mast, and is treated as such. Four very light 
 bamboo battens are put in the sail to increase the area, and 
 the sail is attached to the spar, B, as far up as the ring, and 
 from that point to a batten (a), and this batten is attached to 
 B by halliard, b, which passes through block to foot and 
 back to hand. The sail can be lowered by halliard (b) or 
 taken off mast. A, in the usual manner of lateens. 
 
 The first reef is taken by letting go halliard and pulling in 
 
 *This sail is little used at present, and the name "Mohican" is 
 applied solely to the settee sail described on page 159.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 79 
 
 reef line (one being the continuation of the other) until bat- 
 ten touches boom. The Dot's reefing gear is used in this 
 instance, and works admirably. The second reef is taken 
 
 FIG. A. "MOHICAN" SAIL. 
 
 by unshipping boom C from mast A and hooking it again to 
 A by the jaw. Batten No. 2 drops to No. 4, and the slack 
 is taken up by reef line, as shown, and the sail becomes an
 
 80 
 
 SAILS AND RIGGING. 
 
 ordinary lateen. The halliard and reef Jine may be made 
 fast on boom, and should be so when sail is slowed away. 
 
 FIG. B. "MOHICAN" SAIL SINGLE REEF. 
 
 This sail can be unshipped and stowed exactly as the 
 lateen, and with the same advantages. It is always stowed
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 81 
 
 on deck, made fast to side of coaming; and it has the reefing 
 advantages of the balance lug, the short boom, and the height 
 to catch light winds, with none of the disadvantages as to 
 many ropes and high masts. 
 
 FIG. C. "MOHICAN" SAIL. DOUBLE REEF 
 
 A is the jaw; B, the spar or topmast; C, the boom. 
 
 Fig. B shows sail with one reef and Fig. C, with two. 
 
 First reef can be taken in before the wind; second reef can
 
 82 SAILS AND RIGGING. 
 
 not, unless first r<;ef is repeated with a parallel batten. 
 In case leg o' mutton form of sail is used the area is much 
 reduced, but ail but No. 4 batten may be omitted, and the 
 sail made fast to spar B by rings, and hoisted and lowered 
 as in ordinary leg b' mutton sails. 
 
 The old sliding gunter is no longer used, as it was difficult 
 either to hoist or lower the topmast with any pressure of 
 wind on the sail. Within the past year (1888/ Ibe gunter rig 
 has been revived, with better results, see page 192. 
 
 On a canoe, the nearer the sails approach a square, the 
 shorter boom and yard they require for any given area, and 
 the easier they are to handle and stow. All things con- 
 sidered, there is no sail so easily set, reefed or furled as the 
 simple standing lug. The head of the sail is laced to a yard 
 on which a ring b is lashed, while the foot is laced to a boom, 
 in the forward end of which an eye is spliced. On the mast 
 is a brass traveler a, formed of a ring to which a hook is 
 brazed. An eye is formed on the upper part of the hook in 
 which the halliard c is spliced, while the downhaul e is 
 spliced to the hook itself. 
 
 The halliard and downhaul are sometimes in one piece, the 
 lead being from eye in traveler through block at masthead, 
 thence through double block at foot of mast to cleat on side 
 deck; thence through double block again and to hook of 
 traveler, the latter part forming a downhaul. The tack d is 
 an endless line rove through a single block on deck at the 
 foot of the mast and a screweye near the well, and having a 
 toggle spliced into it. To set sail it is taken from below, the 
 eye in the end of boom toggled to the tack, hauled out and 
 belayed, then the yard is lifted, the ring hooked on to the 
 traveler, and the halliard hauled taut and belayed. The 
 downhaul is led outside of the sail, the latter always being on 
 the same side of the mast. 
 
 Where a large area is to be carried, as in racing, the best 
 sail is, beyond all question, the balance lug, a modification of 
 the sails long in use in China, which was introduced to 
 canoeists some fifteen years ago. In this sail a portion pro-
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 83
 
 84 SAILS AND RIGGING. 
 
 jects forward of the mast, greatly lessening the outboard 
 weight when running free, as well as the length of the boom. 
 The sail is spread on a yard and boom, as the standing lug, 
 but is so hung that a portion hangs forward of the mast, 
 about one-seventh to one-eighth of the boom being forward ; 
 thus, a sail of 7ft. on the foot will have no longer boom 
 when running free than an ordinary sail of 6ft. on the 
 foot. 
 
 To handle a large sail quickly and certainly a number of 
 lines are needed, some of which may be dispensed with at the 
 will of the skipper, but we will give all in the description. 
 
 One peculiarity of these sails, a feature also derived from 
 the Chinese, is that they have a light batten sewn in a hem 
 on the sail at every reef, keeping the sail very flat, and per- 
 mitting the use of reefing gear instead of the ordinary reef- 
 points. 
 
 The sail always remains on the same side of the mast, on 
 either tack, being permanently hung there. On the yard 
 just forward of the mast is a short piece of line (g), having 
 an eye in one end, and a wooden toggle in the other, and abaft 
 the mast is a thimble, k. The end of the halliard has an 
 eye spliced in it, then in setting sail supposing, as is usually 
 the case, that the sail is on the port side the halliard is 
 passed through the eye k, around the starboard side of the 
 mast, and toggled to the eye in the line g. 
 
 The boom is rigged in a similar manner, with thimble (k) 
 and tack, the latter, about 5ft. long, being spliced to the boom 
 at I, and leading around starboard side of mast through k 
 and block ra on deck, to cleat; or the tack may be fast at I, 
 lead through a thimble lashed at starboard side of mast, then 
 through eye k and to cleat on boom. In these sails the luff 
 must be set up very taut to keep them flat, so the tack and 
 halliard gear must be strong. 
 
 On each batten a short line (o), called a parrel, is made fast 
 just forward of the mast, fastening with a toggle to an eye 
 (p) on tbe batten abaft the mast, allowing such play as is 
 necessary in lowering sail or reefing. These parrels confine 
 the sail to the mast, keeping it flatter, and distributing its
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 85 
 
 BALANCE LUG SAIL.
 
 86 SAILS AND RIGGING. 
 
 weight more uniformly over the entire length of the mast, 
 thus easing the strain on the masthead. 
 
 A topping lift is usually fitted, being in two parts, one on 
 each side of the sail. The lower ends are "crowsfeet," aa 
 shown, the main lines leading through a block at the mast 
 head, and uniting in one part, which leads through a block 
 at the deck and to a cleat. 
 
 Another line, t, called a jackstay, is made fast to the mast- 
 head, leads down outside of the sail, and is made fast to the 
 mast just above the boom, or it may be led through a thim- 
 ble on the boom to a cleat. Its purpose is to hold up the 
 fore end of the boom in reefing and lowering sail. A down- 
 haul is also rigged to gather in the sail quickly, especially in 
 case of an upset. It is made fast to the yard near the ey, h, 
 and leads through a screweyc or block on deck. The main 
 sheet is made fast to a span, or for a large sail a single block 
 travels on the span, and the sheet is rove through it, one end 
 of the latter having an eye in it. When running free, the 
 entire length of sheet is used, the eye bringing up in the 
 block and preventing it unreeving, but when closehauled the 
 eye is hooked over a cleat on the afterdeck, and the sheet is 
 used double, giving a greater purchase and taking in the slack. 
 
 For racing with very large sails, backstays are some- 
 times necessary, leading from the masthead to the deck 
 on each side, one being slacked off, and the other set up, in 
 jibing. When not in use, the slack is taken up by a rubber 
 band. In rigging the mizzen, the jackstay and backstay are 
 omitted, and the topping lift is a standing one, made fast to 
 masthead and boom, the sheet being single. * 
 
 The following method of handling a balance lugsail, writ- 
 ten by Mr. E. B. Tredwen, and published in the London F<cld 
 some time since, refers both to the large racing sails, and to a 
 cruising rig also : "The difficulty which is experienced by 
 many canoeists, appeal's to arise from the needless labor of 
 taking off the sail every time the canoe is housed. I have 
 always found it best to keep a mast for each sail, a cruising 
 mast and a racing mast, and the respective sails are never 
 taken off their masts except for washing or repairing. Simi- 
 
 *A later and improved form of balance lug is described on 
 page 225.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 87 
 
 brly the mast which has been last used on the canoe is 
 always put away with the canoe, either unstcpping it, and 
 laying it on deck, or lowering it (if a lowering mast be used) 
 and letting it lie with a lathing to keep it in place. 
 
 If, however, the canoe must be left in the open, it is neces- 
 sary to remove the mast and sail, which is very easily done. 
 Having finished sailing and come alongside the boat house, 
 the topping lift is l<t go and the after end of the boom comes 
 on deck; then the tack must be slacked, or if the tack is a 
 fixture, the jackstay must be slacked a few inches. The 
 reeflines should next be gathered together, and stowed into 
 a fold of the sail, the halliard and hauling part of the top- 
 ping lift, similarly stowed in a fold on the opposite side of 
 the sail, and the main sheet cast three or four times around 
 all. 
 
 All the lines leading to the masthead (topping lift, halliards, 
 etc.) should then be gathered to the mast about two feet 
 above deck and a tyer put around. The after end of the 
 sail can now be brought up to the mast and tied there, and 
 the whole let run into a long bag and stowed away in the 
 boat house. 
 
 When next going out for a sail, the mast is stepped, the 
 tie of the boom end to the mast let go, and the sail brought 
 down to the deck, the mainsheet cleared from around the 
 rail, the topping lift set up, and the reeflines allowed to lie 
 in the fore end of the well. The jackstay being set up, 
 sail may be hoisted at once. The trouble when under way 
 of reeving two reeflines through two screweyes, and knot- 
 ting the ends for the sake of keeping them in their places, 
 appears to be a detail scarcely worth discussion. 
 
 If the mast and sail arc not taken off the boat at the end 
 of the sail, there is not even the trouble of untying the knots 
 in the ends of the lines. When my canoe sails have not 
 been put away by a stranger, I can always get under sail in 
 five minutes. 
 
 In a cruising sail there is no necessity for the tack to lead 
 along the deck, or even along the boom. I have always 
 cruised with a fixed tack about Gin. long, made fast to the
 
 88 CENTERBOARDS. 
 
 lug of a triple pulley on the mast for the reefing gear to lead 
 through. 
 
 The only occasion on which the tack need be started is in 
 racing, when the -wind is very light and the canoe is sailing 
 between high banks. The tack may then be eased up until 
 the yard is hoisted chock ablock, so as to get the sail as high 
 as possible ; at all other times a standing tack will do with- 
 out any part on deck." 
 
 CENTERBOARDS. 
 
 In all decked canoes of classes A and B, which include 
 probably two-thirds of the canoes used in America, sail- 
 ing qualities have of late been considered as of even more 
 importance than paddling, and the sailing powers of these 
 boats have been developed to an extent never thought of by 
 the first canoeists. Almost the first quality in a sailing boat 
 is its lateral resistance, by reason of which it can be sailed 
 to windward, and to secure enough in a canoe one of two 
 things is necessary, a fixed keel, or a centerboard; the lee 
 board being too clumsy a device to be of use in a canoe, 
 though at one time occasionally used. An exception may 
 be made here to the double leeboard used on the Canadian 
 canoes, which may be handled on an open canoe, 
 but will not answer for a decked one. There are a number 
 of considerations on both sides of the question of keel vs. 
 centerboard, and as no general rule is possible, we will notice 
 the leading points on either side, leaving the canoeist to de- 
 cide for himself after weighing them. 
 
 First efficiency; the two are about equal as to lateral 
 resistance and handling if the keel be rockered, otherwise the 
 centerboard boat will turn more easily, and the double board 
 is decidedly better than the keel when running free. Second 
 strength and weight; the keel boat will be stronger and 
 lighter than any centerboard boat can be, but the latter can 
 be built strong enough without being too heavy. Third 
 durability ; the keel is not liable to accident and derangement as
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 89 
 
 all boards are.and there is less danger of leakage.while the boat 
 will stand more rough usage. Fourth expense; the keel will 
 cost usually from $15 lo $23 less than a boar.;! of proper con- 
 struction. Fifth convenience; the keel boat gives more 
 room inside, but will not stand upright on shore as the flat- 
 bottomed centerboard will, which is a great disadvantage in 
 landing, sleeping on shore and in packing stores aboard, 
 and sometimes dangerous in running aground. On the other 
 hand, a flat keel, as now built for centerboard, allows the 
 canoe to rest in an upright position when on land, a very 
 great convenience. 
 
 Whatever style of board may be adopted, to secure the 
 best results it must be placed as nearly as possible in the 
 proper position ; but again the question of accommodation 
 comes in. The best position for a board is, in most boats, 
 with the center of its immersed portion a little forward of the 
 center of lateral resistance of the hull and the center of effort 
 of the sails; but in a canoe, in order to obtain room for sit- 
 ting and sleeping, the board must be considerably forward 
 of this if a trunk is required for it, and it may be moved for- 
 ward without much harm, provided the aftersail is reduced 
 in consequence. The only detriment to this plan would be 
 that while the boat would balance properly on a wind with 
 the board down, she would need a larger mizzen when in 
 shoal water with board up. To avoid this disadvantage two 
 plans are adopted, either to place the board well forward and 
 add a second board aft, or to use a folding board that will 
 not require a large trunk, and may be placed in any part of 
 the boat. Of the latter class of boards there are several vari- 
 eties, all of them patented. 
 
 The question of weight in a centerboard is also an import- 
 ant one. Most sailing canoes require some ballast, and in 
 this form it can be carried lower than in any other way, as 
 a drop of 18in. below the keel is allowed by the rules. The 
 weight being so low down will make the boat much stiffer 
 than inside ballast can, and its value will be found when 
 running, as it will steady the boat greatly. The extra 
 weight is of little account in handling, as the boards may be
 
 90 CENTERBOARDS. 
 
 lifted out on landing so that the canoe and trunks will weigh 
 no moie than a canoe with fixed board. Several instances 
 have occurred of canoes with heavy boards capsizing under 
 racing sail until water poured into the well, but coming up 
 safely and continuing. 
 
 The double board plan presents many advantages for a 
 canoe, the center of the boat is entirely clear of trunk, lever 
 or gear, leavirg plenty of room for sleeping; with two 
 boards, if properly worked, the boat may be handled to per- 
 fection in tacking, the canoe falling off quickly when the 
 forward board is raised, and luffing when it is lowered and 
 the after one raised, while in running free the after board 
 steadies the boat greatly. The objection on the score of 
 weight is but small, as both boards may be lifted out easily, 
 when the weight of the two trunks is no more than that of 
 most folding boards, while the boards themselves are ballast 
 in its best shape. The smaller or after board will weigh 
 from 7 to 1215s., the forward one from 15 to 601bs., as de- 
 sired, or for light winds it may even be made of wood. These 
 boards are also made so that a portion of the weight may be 
 removed, as will be described further on. 
 
 The first point of importance in building a centerboard 
 boat is the trunk for the board. In a boat of any dze, a 
 sloop or catboat, of 16ft. or upward, the trunk would be 
 composed of two pieces of oak called bed pieces as long as 
 the trunk, and for a small sailboat, 2x4in. placed oa edge 
 and bolted to the keel on each side of the slot, strips of can- 
 ton flannel, painted with thick white lead, being laid between 
 them and the keel. At each end of the slot are "headledges" 
 also of oak, 2 or Sin. wide, in a fore and aft direction, and 
 as thick as the width of the slot, which should be large 
 enough to allow for the board swelling when wet. The slot 
 being cut in the keel the headledges are driven into it at each 
 end and a rivet pin through each and the keel, then the bed- 
 pieces are put in place with the flannel between and bolted 
 down to the keel, rivets being also driven through their 
 ends and the headledges. The sides of the trunk are made 
 of dry pine from 1 to l^ins. thick for a sailboat, riveted at
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 91 
 
 the ends to the headledges, the seams between the sides and 
 the bedpieces being caulked. 
 
 Such a construction is too heavy, and, besides, unneces- 
 sary in a light boat; the headledges (a a) are retained, but no 
 bedpieces are put in. The headledges will be from f to fin. 
 thick, according to the thickness of the board, and l|in. 
 wide, of spruce. They are set into the keel (b) as shown 
 in Fig. 11, nnd also in plate on next page. The sides 
 of the trunk are of well-seasoned and clear wood, usually 
 white pine, although mahogany is more durable. A tongue 
 is planed on the lower edge, iin. wide and deep (see 
 Fig. 11), and a corresponding groove is ploughed on 
 each side of the slot. The sides are $lu. thick on lower 
 edge, for a large board, but may be tapered down to fin. at 
 the top, as shown, to save unnecessary weight. Some care 
 and neatness is required to make tight work; the sides are 
 tongued on their lower edges, then fastened together, side by 
 side, with a few small brads, and cut to the same shape; 
 then the insides are painted, a strip of brass being first 
 screwed to the inside of cuch to prevent wear, then they are 
 carefully adjusted, with the headledges in place between 
 them, and a few screws put in temporarily to hold them 
 while riveting. They are then fastened together by copper 
 nails through sides and headledges, about l^in. apart, the 
 nails being also riveted over burrs. Two or three pieces of 
 wood, as thick as the headledges, are now laid in the trunk 
 to prevent it or the keel fiom coming together in planking, 
 and are not removed until the boat is finished, or the trunk 
 may close slightly. Now the grooves in tho keel are painted 
 with thick white lead, the trunk is driven down into place 
 and clamped fast, rivets are put through the keel and each 
 headleu^e, then the holes are bored for the screws. These 
 latter are of brass, ,V to^in. diameter and 3|in. long. The 
 holes are bored full depth with a small bit, then a larger one 
 is run in for a distance equal to the shank of the screw, the 
 latter is screwed firmly in and filed smooth. In fastening 
 such work all joints that are painted must be thoroughly 
 fastened while the paint is fresh, or they will leak. The
 
 92 
 
 CENTERBOARDS,
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 93 
 
 after trunk will come on the deadwoods, and it may be 
 necessary to set in a solid bedpiecc, on which the trunk is 
 get, as above, the sides, however, being thinner. 
 
 Trunks are sometimes made of galvanized iron, but are 
 liable to rust and are not as good as wood. If the sides of 
 the trunk are thick enough holes are sometimes bored through 
 them from top to bottom and bolts driven down through the 
 keel, preventing them from splitting. In canoes the trunks 
 are usually open on top, so that the boards may be lifted out. 
 
 The after board may be of zinc, galvanized iron or cop- 
 per iin. thick, about 15 to 18in. long. It is hung by two 
 strips of brass fx^in., or even thinner, one on each side of 
 the board, to which they are fastened by a rivet through 
 both and the corner of the board. At the top they are both 
 riveted to a small handle, by which they may be lifted out 
 A braided cord is used to raise and lower the board, being 
 spliced into a brass eye in the after upper corner. This cord 
 runs over a brass pulley fitted on deck, which is also movable. 
 
 The heavy boards are usually of plate iron galvanized, 
 and are from to J^in. thick, the latter weighing 60 pounds. 
 A square board, as is iisual in sailboats, would bring too 
 much weight at the top, to avoid which that portion of the 
 board within the case is cut away until only an arm, suffi- 
 cient to steady the board in the case, is left. The board is 
 first cut to shape out of boiler plate of the required thick- 
 ness, then it is filed smooth at all corners and angles and re- 
 duced to a thickness of Yg-in. at the upper after corner 
 where the lifting gear is fastened, and at the lower forward 
 corner where the pin hole is. Next the board is galvanized 
 and then it is ready for the fittings. Sometimes cast-iron is 
 used, but it is liable to break. The Pearl canoe has two 
 boards of Muntz metal, one of 68 pounds for racing. 
 
 Another form of board, in which the frame work is ot 
 wrought iron, with sides of sheet iron, leaving a space inside 
 in which a plate of lead can be inserted, is shown in thj 
 Appendix. By this device a light or heavy board can be 
 had, while the weight is divided for carrying. If the board 
 be fixed in the canoe.a brass bolt is put through it and the
 
 94 CENTERBOARDS. 
 
 trunk, on which it turns, but the usual plan is to fit the board 
 to lift out. The board is hung from a brass rod, or between 
 two brass strip? (ff), as described for the small board, the 
 top having a handle (</), and also a catch to prevent the 
 lifting rod from pulling forward. A. small brass chock (h) 
 is screwed to the inside of the trunk to prevent the lifting rod 
 slipping aft. A rivet is also put through the keel to retain 
 the lower end of the rod. If the board does not weigh over 
 thirty pounds it is raised and lowered by a single pennant of 
 braided cord. Two brass plates are rivetted, one on each, 
 side of the board, at its upper after corner, and a brass 
 thimble in which the lifting line is spliced, plays on a rivet 
 through their upper ends. A pulley is placed oa deck, from 
 which the cord leads to a cleat. 
 
 For u heavier board a purchase must be used, a chain made 
 of flat links side by side, is fastened to the centerboard by 
 two large links, a rubber ball is then slipped on to the chain 
 to act as a buffer, and a single brass block is lashed to the 
 end of the chain. The deck pulley (k) over which the chain 
 runs has a sheave with a square groove to take the chain, 
 and is also fitted so as to slide into place on deck, or be 
 readily removed, without taking it off the chain. A brass 
 block is also lashed to the lifting rod at deck, and the line is 
 rove by making one end fast to the tail of this block, leading 
 through the other block, on the chain, and back through the 
 first block, thence to a cleat. By taking hold of the chain 
 near the pulley with one hand, and of the lilting handle 
 with the other, the pulley may be disengaged and the board 
 readily lifted out. 
 
 RUDDERS. 
 
 It is most essential to the safety of a canoe that there shall 
 be some means of steering besides the paddle. The boat 
 is FO long that it cannot be turned quickly by the latter, the 
 leverage being comparatively short, and on all but the 
 smallest Rob Roys a rudder is a prime necessity. The first 
 canoes were built with stem and stern nearly alike, both with
 
 . i M. 1 TKl 'II ' '. \ XOE B UILDIXCf. 95 
 
 a long curve, to which it was very difficult to fit a rudder. 
 One plan was to use a curved rudder and braces fitted to 
 turn, but such a rudder is rot only difficult to ship but will 
 unship itself on the least provocation. In another plan a 
 false stern was made fitting the sternpost, to which it was 
 fastened, but straight on its after edge, to which the rudder 
 was hung. This plan also was clumsy and unsatisfactory, 
 and finally discarded. Another plan was to use a long arm 
 for the lower brace, projecting three or four inches from the 
 sternpost, so that the rudder hung vertically ; but this, too. 
 is now Jittle used. For many years the sternposts have been 
 straight, though mostly set at an angle to the keel, as in the 
 old Shadows, giving a good support for a rudder. There 
 was a decided objection to this plan, however, as it was 
 very difficult to launch the canoe from a bank or dock if the 
 water was shoal, the sternpost sticking in the mud and. ia 
 addition, it made the canoe hard to turn round. To obviate 
 tbese objections and yet allow the rudder to hang properly 
 without causing a drag, as it will on a curved or raking 
 sternpost, some canoes of late have had the sternpost verti- 
 cal, or nearly so, from the water up, giving 7 to 9in. to sup- 
 port the rudder, but below the water the heel is rounded 
 quickly away into the rocker of the keel, allowing the boat 
 to be pushrd stern first into mud without sticking fast, and 
 also increasiutr the ease of turning. 
 
 In form the rudder, especially for rough water, should 
 drop below the level of the keel several inches, so as to have 
 a good hold on the water, even when the boat is pitching 
 among waves. With this form of rudder, shown in the 
 large plates of canoes, a tricing line is sometimes used, being 
 made fast to the rudder, and running over a sheave in the 
 sternpost at deck, by means of which the rudder may be 
 raised in shoal water. The idea of a drop rudder in two 
 parts is not new, but its practical application to canoes is of 
 recent date, one of the first having been fitted to the Atalan- 
 tis by Mr. S. R. Stoddard in 1883. These rudders, now 
 coming into general use, are made of sheet brass, as shown 
 in the drawing, a portion being fitted on a pivot like
 
 96 RUDDERS. 
 
 a centerboard, allowing it to drop to a distance or to rise on 
 striking any obstacle, while it may be raised by a line from 
 the well. This rudder acts, to a certain extent, as an after 
 centerboard, allowing the centerboard proper to be placed 
 further forward than would otherwise be possible. Besides 
 this it has a further advantage, that on most canoes it may 
 be so proportioned as to fold up, leaving nothing below the 
 water-line, thus obviating to a great extent the necessity for 
 removing the rudder at all, as the boat may be launched with 
 the rudder attached, but folded up so as not to strike bot- 
 tom. If the rudder and j'oke arc both strongly made, they 
 offer excellent handles by which to lift the after end of the 
 canoe. The stock of the rudder is made of one piece of 
 sheet brass doubled, the rod on which Ihe rudder hangs run- 
 ning down inside the seam as shown. The top of each side 
 is turned down horizontally, and to the two the rudder-yoke 
 is rivctted. The drop portion of the rudder fits between the 
 two sides, a bolt or rivet passing through the three.* 
 
 The usual way of hanging the common rudder by pintles 
 and braces, is shown also. A better plan is to have two 
 braces on the rudder, as well as two on the sternpost, with 
 a rod of i'n. brass running down through them, allowing the 
 ruddir to rise up, but not to unship. An old but very good 
 plan is shown at ra. On the rudder are two braces, each 
 with a hole through it. A similar brace is placed below on 
 the sternpost and a brass rod is screwed or riveted 
 permanently into it. The upper end of the rod is held 
 by a flat strip of bras?, m, brszed to it, while in the lower 
 bracr, n, on rudder, is a slot, allowing it lo slide past m on 
 the rod. 
 
 The rudder yoke should be strong and well proportioned, 
 as it sometimes receives heavy blows. The arms need not, 
 be over 4 to 5in. long each, as the shorter length will give 
 power enough. Sometimes instead of a yoke a grooved 
 wheel is fitted to the rudder head, the lines running in the 
 groove. This gives control of the rudder in any position, 
 
 * See page 198.
 
 AMATEUE CANOE BUILDING. 97 
 
 even when backing, and has another advantage in that the 
 mizzen sheet cannot foul and the yoke cannot catch in lines 
 or bushes.* 
 
 TABERNACLES. 
 
 It is now considered necessary in order to spar a canoe to 
 the best advantage, to place the masts so near the ends that 
 it is very difficult, or even impossible to unship them when 
 afloat, especially in rough water. The requirements, both of 
 convenience and safety, however, dictate that they must be 
 capable of being lowered, both for bridges, trees, warps and 
 when in very rough water. The arrangements by which 
 this end is attained are called tabernacles, several styles of 
 which are shown. In one form the deck is not cut, but the 
 heel of the mast is pivoted between two pieces of oak, (p) each 
 2-ix-Jlu. above deck, fastened securely to the keel and pro- 
 jecting 4| to Sin. above deck. These pieces are covered 
 above deck with sheet brass -^-in. thick, and the heel of the 
 mast is bound with the same to prevent splitting. A pin or 
 bolt of fin. brass goes through the three, the mast turning on 
 it. The after side of the tabernacle is also of ^in. oak, pro- 
 jecting l^in. above deck, or enough to catch the heel of the 
 inast and prevent the later from going forward. The mast 
 is raised and supported by a forestay and tackle from the 
 fctcmhead, to permit which, the sail, if a balance lug, must 
 have a great peak. 
 
 Another simple form was fitted to a canoe in 1880 by the 
 writer. A triangular box was set in the forward part of the 
 canoe, fastened at the bottom to the keel, and at the top to 
 the deck, in which u slot was cut, as wide as the mast and 
 about 1ft. long, the box, of course, being of the same width 
 inside. In practice, the canoeist, seated in the well, could 
 place the mast in the box, leaving it, for paddling, lying at 
 an angle of 43 degrees, but when desired to raise it, by going 
 on the knees the mast could be thrown easily into an up- 
 right position, and held by a tvooden chock (<?) slipped into the 
 do*; behind it. This chock, with its sides projecting over 
 
 * See page 190.
 
 98 
 
 TABERNACLES.
 
 A MA TEUR C'A NOE B UILDINO. 99 
 
 the slot, completely covered it, and kept out all water. 
 When the mast was not in use, its place wag taken by a 
 square plug. The chock was fitted at ils fore end to slide 
 under two screw heads which held it down, and its aftei 
 end was kept down with a brass button. 
 
 Another and better form of tabernacle is that devised by 
 Mr. Tredwen and fitted to tbe Pearl canoes. This is a square 
 box 15 to 18in. long, as wide as the diameter of the mast 
 acd as deep as can be fitted to the boat. It is lined with 
 sheet copper and provided with a drain (?) at the bottom. 
 For racing purposes two light boxes of wood are made, wide 
 enough to fit in the tabernacle, their united length just fill- 
 ing the remainder of the box when the mast is in it. If the 
 mast is to be set forward, both boxes are slipped in behind 
 it ; the mast may be set aft, the boxes being forward of it, 
 or the mast may be .placed between the two boxes. By this 
 device the mast may be tried in almost any position until its 
 proper place is found. In the Pearl the large and small 
 mainsails are both used with the same mizzsn, the position 
 of the sails being changed so that both will balance properly. 
 
 In cruising, the mast is fitted to lower by means of a line 
 from the well. In one method the brass band to which the 
 clocks are fastened is fitted with two lugs or trunnions, at 
 the height of the deck. These lugs engage in two hooks 
 screwed to the deck at the after end of the tabernacle, being 
 raised by a heel rope led over a sheave in the heel of the 
 mast, thence through a sheave on the after side of the mast 
 above deck, and thence through a sheave forward of the 
 tabernacle, giving a very powerful purchase. By another 
 plan the mast is hoisted by a purchase made fast at the stem 
 head acd also to the mast above the deck. "With either of 
 the.se arrangements, no forestay is needed. To set the mast 
 at the fore end of the tabernacle, no lugs are required, but a 
 chock is dropped into the bottom to prevent the heel 
 from coming aft, and the purchase is used to bring the mast 
 upright and hold it there.
 
 TENTS AND CAMP BEDS. 
 
 A tent of some kind is an essential part of the outfit ol 
 every canoeist, as he never knows when it may be needed, 
 even on a short trip. A head wind, foul tide or sudden 
 storm may make it impossible to reach the proposed stopping 
 place and force the canoeist to seek refuge for a night or 
 from the rain as quickly as possible. 
 
 Tents for canoes are of three kinds: First, a small shelter, 
 merely for bleeping' under; second, a square tent, high 
 enough to sit under and to cook or read in; third, shore 
 tents large enough for two or three. The simplest of all is 
 improvised from a rubber blanket hung over a boom or 
 paddle, one end of which is lashed to the mizzenmast the 
 other resting on the deck. The sides will need to be tied 
 down or kept in place by stones. A better device is the 
 shelter used on the Windward: shown in the drawing. This 
 tent has a ridge rope, one end of which is hooked to an eye 
 or cleat at fore end of well, the other end being made fast 
 to the mizzenmast about 3ft. above deck. The cover is a 
 piece of sheeting or drilling Lemmed around the edges, with 
 a hem also down the center in which the ridge rope is run. 
 A triangular piece is fitted to the after end, running across 
 the foot, and tapes are sewn at intervals along tho edges to 
 tic down with. This tent, shown with the flap open, makes 
 a good shelter and sheds rain well, but is hardly roomy 
 enough where much sleeping aboard is done. It has, how- 
 ever three advantages, in being easily set and stowed, taking 
 up little room in the canoe, and offering little surface when 
 riding head to wind. 
 
 A better tent on the same plan is made with the top trian- 
 gular, the after end, about 20in. wide, having a hem in 
 which a stick is inserted, a cord from each end of the stick 
 ' running io the mast. The after end is square instead of tri- 
 angular, and the sides are triangular, all coming to a point
 
 AM A TE UR CANOE B UILD1NO. 101
 
 102 TENTS AND CAMP BEDS. 
 
 at the fore end. This tent is roomier than the former, but 
 is easily set and stowed. 
 
 Of the second class the favorite one is that commonly 
 known as the Mohican, but first used by Mr. C. L. Norton 
 on the Kittiwake. This tent in its present form is also 
 shown. The top piece is of canvas, 22in. wide and 6 to 
 7ft. long. At each end a hem is turned in, to take a round 
 stick, Jin. in diameter and 22in. long. The sides and ends 
 of the tent are made of striped awning stuff, which comes 
 29in wide, so that three breadths may be used. The tent is 
 30in. wide at bottom, and about 1ft. longer on bottom than 
 on top. The sides and ends are sewed together at the cor- 
 ners, but the middle breadth on each side is sewed only to 
 the top, making a curtain which may be rolled up, as shown. 
 These curtains lap over the adjoining sides a little, and are 
 provided with tapes to tie them fast. The bottom of the 
 tent is fitted with grommets which hook over small screw- 
 heads under the beading of the deck. The tent is supported 
 by two ropes fastened to the masts. It is sometimes desir- 
 able to have small windows in the tent, which may be made 
 of circular pieces of glass 2|in. diameter, each having two 
 holes drilled near the edge by which it is sewn fast. 
 
 For use on shore a ground cloth 2|x7ft. may be used under 
 the t<.>nt. The sides should be about 5in. high, to keep out 
 rain and wind under the sides. The floor cloth should be 
 waterproofed. 
 
 In another form of tent two bamboo uprights, one at each 
 ead of the well, are used, the tent being square, with a 
 rounded top, somewhat like a wagon. A ridgepole, jointed 
 in the middle for stowage, is supported on the uprights, the 
 tent spread over these, and the top extended by four strips 
 of bent oak, let into hems across the top. The Pearl canoe 
 is fitted with a tent of this description, the uprights being 
 made in two pieces, one sliding in the other, so that by ex- 
 tending them the tent is raised, for cooking or reading, but 
 at night they are let down, making the tent lower and less 
 exposed to the wind. 
 
 An A tent is sometimes fitted to a canoe, using an upright
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 108 
 
 at each end of th well, or one at the fore end and the miz- 
 zenmast, with the painter stretched across as a ridge rope, 
 but a wider top, as shown in the Mohican tent, is better. 
 
 For shore use a tent is usually carried large enough to ac- 
 commodate two or three persons. Tlic simplest form is the 
 ordinary A tent, made about 6|ft. square at the bottom, and 
 6ft. high. It is supported by two upright poles and a ridge 
 pole, or the latter may be dispensed with and a ridge rope 
 used, the ends being made fast to stakes in the ground. 
 
 A better and roomier form is the wall tent, a very good 
 style being that devised by some of the Clyde C. C. This 
 tent is usually about 6ft. wide, 7ft. long, and 6ft. high, the 
 walls being 2ft. high. The bottom is sewn to the sides 
 and ends, except the Hap, which serves as a door, thus pre- 
 venting all drafts. It is well to have a second bottom of 
 light stuff laid inside over the main one, and not sewn fast, 
 so that it may be lifted out for cleaning the tent. A ridge 
 pole and two upright poles, all jointed, are used. Where 
 the walls join the roof, a hem 2in. wide is sewn, and in 
 this four or five grommets are set to take the tent ropes. 
 The tent pins are of iron rod i'm , galvanized, lOin. long, 
 with the upper end turned into a ring to draw them 
 out by. A flap is sometimes made in each side of the roof 
 for ventilation. In setting this tent, it is \infolded on the 
 ground and each corner fastened with a pin, then the four 
 pins for the corner ropes arc driven, each at the proper dis- 
 tance from its corner, which will be found the first time that 
 the tent is set and marked permanently on one of the poles 
 for future measurement; the corner ropes are made fast to 
 the pins, allowing slack enough to hoist the tent, then the 
 ridge pole is run through, the canoeist goes inside the tent, 
 raises the after end, slips the upright under the ridge pole, 
 walks to the other end, holding up the latter, and slips in 
 the other pole. Now the corner ropes may be looked over 
 and tightened, the remaining pegs driven and the ropes made 
 fust to them, and the ground sheet spread inside. The 
 entire operation, if the tent is properly folded, can be per- 
 formed by one man in five minutes. Sometimes the ridge
 
 104 TENTS AND CAMP BEDS. 
 
 pole is made to extend about 18in. beyond the front of the 
 tent, thus keeping the upright out of the way of the door. 
 It is as well to have the rear upright inside, as it is useful to 
 hang clothes on, a few hooks being screwed in it. It will 
 also be convenient to have a few canvas pockets hung to the 
 walls for brush, and comb, etc. 
 
 Canoeists in America have used for the past few years a 
 rery good tent, of the form known as "Marquee." The 
 ground space may be 7x7ft., the height to peak being about 
 the same. But one pole is needed, which is in the center of 
 the tent. The roof portion may be 2|ft. on each side, and is 
 extended by four small sticks running from the central pole 
 to each corner. The four lower corners are first staked 
 down, the pole is slipped into the center of the roof, raising 
 the latter, then the four sticks are pushed into place, and all 
 is ready. These tents are usually made without a bottom, 
 but a ground cloth should be used in any case. 
 
 For small tents, heavy unbL ached sheeting may be used, 
 and for the larger ones a light drill or duck. To render 
 them waterproof they may be coated with boiled linseed oil 
 and tercbin, one gill of the latter to two quarts of oil, two 
 coats being sufficient. The Mohican tent has a top of heavy 
 canvas and sides of awning stuff, neither being waterproofed, 
 and the marquees are generally made of the latter material. 
 If a stay is made in any place for some time, the shanty 
 tent, described by "Nessmuk" in "Woodcraft," is probably 
 the best known, but in canoeing the halts are usually but for 
 a day or two, and often for a night, so the tent must be 
 quickly set and stowed. 
 
 Next to the question of shelter comes the bed, a point of 
 special interest to most canoeists, who for fifty weeks of the 
 year sleep in a comfortable bed at home. 
 
 Many canoes are now furnished with a mattress of cork 
 shavings, which makes an excellent bed, and also answers as 
 a life preserver. This mattress, the invention of Mr. C. H. 
 Farnham, is 50in. long, 18in. wide and 4in. thick, made of 
 some light material, such as burlaps or Japanese canvas. 
 It is divided by two partitions, each made of muslin sewn
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 105 
 
 to top, bottom and ends, into thiee parts, each 50x6x4in. t 
 and in each of these about 1 pounds of cork shavings is 
 placed. The partitions arc intended to keep the cork dis- 
 tributed evenly. Hooks and rings at the ends, with straps 
 for the shoulders, make it easily adjustable as a life pre- 
 server, as it is long enough to encircle the body. 
 
 In connection with this mattress, Mr. Fainham, m^ch. of 
 whose canceing has been done in cold climates, has devised 
 a sleeping bag or quilt and cover. The quilt, when extended, 
 is nearly heart-shaped, being 7ft. long and 7ft. at the widest 
 part. The small end does not come quite to a point, but an 
 oval end piece is sewn in. The quilt is m; dc of silk or silesia, 
 stuffed with 2J pounds of down, evenly quilted in, the edges 
 being strengthened with a binding of tape. Around the 
 edges are buttons and buttonholes, by which the quilt may 
 be converted into a closed bag, in which a man may sleep 
 warmly in the coldest weather. A cover of the same shape 
 is made of fine muslin, coated with boiled oil, and being 
 provided with buttonholes, may be buttoned closely, keep- 
 ing off entirely the dampness of the ground or even rain. 
 The entire weight of the quilt is 4 pounds, and of oiled 
 cover 2 pounds G ounces, and both may be rolled into a very 
 small bundle for stowage. The amount of covering may be 
 regulated to suit the weather, the canoeist sleeping with 
 either oiled cover, quilt, or both over him, or if very cold, 
 rolling up in both and lying on ths cork mattress. The cork 
 mattress is used in several ways as a cushion during the day. 
 Canoeists usually carry in summer a good pair of blankets, 
 and sometimes a sleeping bag, made of a quilt or blanket 
 doubled and sewn together at the edges and across one end, 
 the other being kept open for ingress. 
 
 if weight and space are of importance on short summer 
 cruises, a single good blanket may be taken, with a lining of 
 sheeting or drill sewed to one edge and buttoning along the 
 bottom and other edge. In very warm weather the canoeist 
 sleeps under the drilling only, or if cooler, under the blanket; 
 but in still colder weather the lined blanket will be almost as 
 warm as a double one, and much lighter. A rubber water-
 
 106 STOVES A5D LAMPS. 
 
 bed is sometimes carried and is very comfortable to sleep on, 
 but they are quite expensive. 
 
 One or two rubber blankets are usually found in a canoe- 
 ist's outfit, and are very useful, as a tent may be improvised 
 from one ; it is necessary on damp ground or in a \vet canoe, 
 and during the day the bedding may be rolled in it. What- 
 ever ? adding is carried, it is highly necessary that it should 
 be kept dry, which is best accomplished by wrapping in a 
 waterproof cover or bag, strapping it very tightly, and carry- 
 ing it well under the deck or in a compartment. In many 
 localities a few yards of mosquito netting are iudispensable, 
 as it may be used in connection with any of the tents de- 
 scribed. Several varieties of camp cot are sold in the 
 sporting goods stores, but, though good in a permanent 
 camp, they are too heavy and bulky for a canoe. 
 
 STOVES AND LAMPS. 
 
 On a canoe cruise of any length cooking apparatus of 
 some kind is of course a necessity, but on short trips it is 
 usually dispensed with, a supply of cold provisions being 
 carried. Some means of making tea, coffee or hot soup is 
 always necessary, however, and should be at hand even if 
 the trip in prospect is to last but a few hours. Delays are 
 always possible on the water, and the prudent canoeist will 
 prepare for them. For light cooking an alcohol stove is the 
 cleanest and most compact, the best being that known as the 
 "flamme force," which gives a hot flame in a little while, 
 and may be used afloat. With this stove, a little coffee or 
 tea, some pilot bread and a can of prepared soup, a good meal 
 may be quickly prepared. The only objection is the cost of 
 the fuel. Wood spirits may be used instead of alcohol, and 
 is much cheaper; but the odor is very disagreeable. Kero- 
 sene stoves have no place on a canoe, as they are so dirty, 
 besides being quite heavy, and the oil is difficult to carry 
 without spilling over the boat. Alcohol for the spirit store
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 107 
 
 may be carried in a quart can, with a screw top, and even it 
 a little is spilled it will do no injury, as kerosene will. 
 
 Most of the cooking will be done on shore over a wood 
 fire, either on the ground or in a camp stove of some kind. 
 Several very compact stoves are made by the dealers in 
 
 camp goods, but they are too large for a canoe, unless in a 
 large party, where the load can be divided among several 
 boats. For cooking without a stove a very useful contriv- 
 ance is the camp gridiron, shown in the cut. The ends are 
 of half round or flat iron Sin. long. Each has four holes 
 drilled in it for the cross bars of -fain, wire, which are
 
 108 STOVES AND LAMPS. 
 
 riveted in. The legs are of in. round iron, Gin. long, the 
 upper ends being flattened down and turned over to fit on 
 wire staples. These staples pass through holes in the end 
 pieces of the gridiron, and are riveted fast. When in use 
 the fire is made and allowed to burn down to a mass of hot 
 ashes, then the legs of the gridiron are opened and stuck in 
 the ground over it, making a level framework, on which 
 coffee pot, pails and pans will rest without danger of upset- 
 ting. When not in use, the legs are folded down and the 
 gridiron stowed in a canvas bag. 
 
 A very compact and convenient camp stove was used by 
 Mr. Smith, of Newburg, at the camp last spring. It was 
 made of sheet iron, the top being about 10xl5in., or larger if 
 desired, in the shape of a flat pan, the edges turning up lin 
 all around. The two sides were pieces of sheet iron Gin. 
 wide and I7in. long, lin. at each end being turned at a right 
 angle, as shown, making the sides each 15in. long. The 
 ends were each Gin. wide and lOin. long, a strip Gin. long 
 and 2in. wide being riveted across each end as shown, on 
 the inside. To put the stove together, the projecting pieces 
 on the sides were pushed in between the strips on the ends, 
 making a square box, and the lid was laid on top, holding all 
 together. In the front end, a circular hole, covered by a 
 door, was made to put in the wood through, and in the other 
 end a hole was cut to communicate with the pipe. This 
 latter is of round or oval section, about in. across, and 
 18in. long. At the bottom it is riveted to a flat piece 5in. 
 square, which slides in the two extra strips riveted on the 
 after end, as shown in the drawing. 
 
 This stove may be easily and cheaply made; it is light and 
 compact for stowage, all folding into a flat package 10xl5x- 
 l|in., except the pipe, and it is quickly set up and taken 
 apart. No bottom is needed, the stove being set on the 
 ground. 
 
 In another form the body of stove is hinged together, so 
 that when not in use the stove, covers and funnel all go into 
 a canvas bag, two feet long, one foot wide and about three- 
 quarters of an inch thick, which can be stowed under floor
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 109 
 
 of canoe, and is entirely out of the way. It is made of sheet 
 iron; the top is 24x12, with two holes Sin. diameter, with 
 sheet iron covers, and a small 2x3in. hole at one end to hold 
 chimney or funnel. The sides are 24x10, hinged to top, and 
 ends 12x10, hinged to top in same manner; small strips of 
 heavier iron, in. thick, are riveted on sides and one end in 
 such manner as to project below bottom of stove, and being 
 pointed, can be pushed into the ground in setting up stove 
 so as to hold all firm. The front end does not have these 
 projections, so it can be propped out from stove, thereby 
 acting both as a door for fuel and to create a draft. 
 
 Tho funnel is made of four pieces hinged together, two 
 28x3 and two 234x2^, the additional half inch projecting 
 below and fitting into the hole cut on top of stove. 
 
 The top is better in some respects witnout holes, ys the 
 cooking utensils are then kept clean, and free from saokc. 
 
 Still another stove is sometimes used, consisting of a 
 cylinder of sheet iron, 10 to 12in. in diameter and the same 
 in length, open at both ends. Across one end are stretched 
 several stiff wires, upon which rest the cooking utensils 
 At the other end, which is the bottom when used as a 
 stove, an opening about 6x7 from the bottom edge is 
 cut to serve as a door and draft. At the same end, opposite 
 the door, another small opening is cut to give a draft to the 
 other side. 
 
 When not used as a stove it is reversed, the wires serving 
 as a bottom enables it to hold all the utensils, plates, etc., as 
 ii bucket, and a wire handle being fitted to the bottom for 
 that purpose. 
 
 Its advantages are that a fire can be made very quickly, 
 even with poor wood, as the draft is tremendous; it confines 
 the heat and saves fuel, enables one to have a good fire of 
 wood too small to use in an open fire, and renders the hunt- 
 ing and cutting of the usual cross piece for hanging the pots 
 by unnecessary, and it is also very cheap. 
 
 To carry the provisions in and keep them dry, a chest 
 of wood or tin is used, generally about 10xl5x6in., in 
 which arc packed tin cans with large screw covers, such as
 
 110 STOVES AND LAMPS 
 
 are used on vaseline cans, for coffee, tea, sugar, flour, oat- 
 meal, baking powder, rice, and any other articles it is desired 
 to keep dry. If the large box be waterproof, as it should 
 be, such articles are sometimes carried in bags of light 
 drilling, but the cans are usually the best. This box is usu- 
 ally stowed just forward of the feet, under the deck, but 
 where it can be easily reached, the spirit lamp being also 
 near by. In cooking on board, the box is drawn out, the 
 lid, or sometimes a hatch, is laid across the coaming for a 
 table, and the spirit stove set up. For cooking on shore, a 
 kettle for boiling water, say two quarts, a smaller one for 
 oatmeal, etc., to pack inside the large one, a coffee pot, and 
 a frying pan are indispensable, other articles being added if 
 there is room. A very handy implement in a camp kitchen 
 is a pair of light blacksmith's tongs, with which plates and 
 pans may be lifted when hot. 
 
 A light of some kind is a most important part of a canoe's 
 equipment, as the canoeist may on any trip he overtaken by 
 darkness, in which case his safety may depend largely on 
 his showing a light. A square box lantern of brass is used 
 by many canoeists, one side having a green glass and one a 
 red, the front having a round white lens. The oil used is 
 lard or kerosene. This lamp, which is fitted to slides on the 
 forward deck, makes an excellent signal light, but is not 
 visible from astern. In camp, white slides may be substi- 
 tuted for the colored ones. The use of kerosene is a disad- 
 vantage, as it is difficult to carry. The Mohican C. C. carry 
 a small brass lantern in which a candle is used, giving a 
 white light only, and serving for use in the tent or in camp. 
 When under way at night it is hung from the rnizzenrcast.
 
 CANVAS CANOES. 
 
 T ONG before the era of boats constructed of boards, and 
 *-' following closely after the primitive attempt at naviga 
 tion astride a log, and the second step in the form of several 
 logs lashed together, came the intermediate step, by which 
 the form and proportion of a boat was obtained out of com- 
 paratively raw material, and without tools. The coracle, 
 as this craft was called, was simply an open frame of basket 
 work, woven from branches and saplings gathered by the 
 riverside, over which the hide of a bullock, or some similar 
 covering, was stretched and sewn ; the implements required 
 in constructing such a craft being few and of the simplest 
 form, so that it, in all probability, antedates considerably the 
 canoe fashioned from a hollow log. 
 
 This style of boat is still in use, though of course in a 
 greatly improved form, and it still possesses three great 
 advantages, it requires less skill, fewer tools, and less expense 
 of labor and material I han any boat of similar excellence. 
 The canvas canoe is usually inferior both in weight, strength 
 and appearance to its wooden rival, but is still a very good 
 boat for all the purposes of the canoeist. The canvas skin is 
 quite heavy when go prepared as to be watertight, and adds 
 nothing to the strength of the boat, which requires, con- 
 sequently, a stronger frame than a cedar canoe, in which 
 decks and planking add greatly to the strength. If the 
 canoe is of the smaller variety, for paddling only, or carrying 
 but a small sail, it may be built as light or even lighter than 
 a cedar boat of equal stiffness, but if of such a size as 14x30, 
 with 50 to 90ft. of sail, the entire frame must be very 
 strongly braced, and the boat will weigh more than one of 
 cedar.
 
 112 CANVAS CANOES. 
 
 The first steps of the building are similar to those previous- 
 ly described for a lapstreak canoe. The moulds are cut out in 
 the same manner, the stem and stern are prepared, a rabbet 
 in. deep being cut to take the edge of the canvas. The 
 inner keel, /, is fin. thick, 2| to Sin. wide at middle, and 
 tapers to - at the ends. It is planed up, without a rabbet, 
 and to it the stem a and stern b are screwed. The outer keel 
 is in. wide, and as deep as may be desired, not less than 
 fin. It is planed up, the grain pointing aft, as described for 
 a cedar canoe, and is fitted to the scarf of stem, and screwed 
 temporarily to stem, keel and stern, as it must be removed 
 when the canvas is put on. 
 
 The frame is now set up on the stocks, the moulds shored 
 in place and all adjusted, then the gunwales h, of oak or ash, 
 Jxf , are tacked on and jogs or notches are cut in the stem 
 and stern to receive them, leaving their outer surface flush 
 with the surface of the stem and stern. These notches should 
 not be cut across the rabbets. Strips of oak or ash II, 
 IJxJin., are now nailed lightly to the moulds, five or six be- 
 ing used on each side, and the jogs d d marked and cut in 
 stem and stern to receive their ends, which, like the gun- 
 wales, are secured with screws or rivets to the deadwoods. 
 
 The ribs k will be of oak or elm, fxjin. They are planed 
 up, steamed or soaked in boiling water until quite pliable, 
 and then are taken one by one, bent over the knee, and while 
 still hot the middle nailed down to the keel, and then each 
 ribband in turn, from keel to gunwale, is nailed temporarily 
 to the rib with one nail only. Care is necessary to keep the 
 ribbands fair, without hollows or lumps. After all the ribs 
 are in they must be looked over and faired up, the nails being 
 drawn out, if necessary, after which a copper nail is driven 
 through each rib and ribband where they cross, and riveted, 
 making a very strong and elastic frame. 
 
 An inwale, n, Ixfin , is now put inside of each gunwale, 
 h, being jogged to fit over the heads of the ribs, all three 
 being well riveted together. When this is in, the deck beams 
 o may be fitted. They are cut out of oak or hackmatack, 
 lx|in., and are placed as directed for a wooden canoe, the
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 113 
 
 deck frame and coamings being put in in the same manner. 
 The frame is now taken from the stocks, and all corners that 
 might cut the canvas are smoothed and rounded off, then it 
 is painted all over. 
 
 The canvas should be hard and closely woven, wide 
 enough to reach from gunwale to gunwale. The frame is 
 first turned upside down, the outer keel removed, and the 
 middle of the canvas fastened along the keel, with a few tacks, 
 then it is turned over, and the canvas drawn tightly over 
 the gunwales. To do this effectively, the two edges of the 
 canvas are laced together, using a sail needle and strong 
 twine, with stitches about Gin. apart along each edge. TMs 
 lacing is now tightened until the; canvas lies flat over the 
 entire frame. At the ends it must be cut neatly, the edge 
 turned in, and tacked tightly in the rabbet, which is first 
 well painted with thick paint. When the ends are finished 
 the lacing is ag; in tightened up, and a row of tacks driven 
 along the gunwale, after which the lacing is removed and 
 the canvas trimmed down, leaving enough, to turn in and 
 tack to the inside of the inwale. 
 
 The moulds are now removed, and a keelson, e, is put in 
 to stiengthen the bottom, being of oak, fin. deep and lin. 
 wide. It is slipped in, one or two of the deck beams being 
 removed, if necessary, and the position of each lib marked, 
 then it is removed, and jogs cut to fit down over the ribs, 
 after which it is replaced and screwed down, running far 
 enough foiward on the stem to lap well over the scarfs and 
 strengthen it. The deck frame and coaming is next finished, 
 the mast tubes set, and all preparations for decking made as 
 for a wooden canoe. A deck is sometimes laid of in. pine 
 or cedar, over which ths canvas is stretched, or the canvas 
 may be laid directly on the beams. The canvas for the deck 
 may bo about 6oz. weight, and is stretched tightly down 
 and tacked along the gunwales and around the well. After 
 it is on, half round strips m m, are screwed around the edge 
 cf the deck, and an outside keel piece of oak -Jin. thick, is 
 fitted to the bottom, the screws passing through into keelson 
 c, making all very stiff.
 
 114 CANVAS CANOES. 
 
 The canvas should now be wetted, and painted with two 
 coats of boiled oil, with a little turpentine and .japan dryer 
 mixed in, after which a coat or two of paint of any desired 
 color will finish it off. The paint must be renewed on any 
 spots where it may rub off in use, but the canoe should not 
 be painted oftener than necessary, as its weight is much in- 
 creased thereby. 
 
 Another method of building a canvas boat, as described 
 by a writer in Forest and Stream, was to build the boat, of 
 whatever model desired, in the same manner as an ordinary 
 carvel built wooden boat, but using very thin planking, no 
 attempt being made to have the seams in the latter water- 
 tight. This frame is then covered with canvas laid in thick 
 paint, causing it to adhere to the wood, and making a smooth, 
 watertight, surface. Such a boat can be easily built by those 
 who have not the skill and training necessary to build a 
 wooden boat, and it would be strong and durable, as well as 
 cheap.
 
 BOAT BUILDING. 
 
 T^HK first steps of boat building are the same as those 
 -*- already described under canoe building. The main fea- 
 tures of the design are decided on, the drawings or model made, 
 and from them the lines are laid down and the moulds made. 
 The latter, being larger than for a canoe, are usually made 
 of several pieces braced together, as shown in Plate 15, instead 
 of being cut from a solid board. Rabbet and stem moulds 
 will be required, as in a canoe, and also one for the stern or 
 transom, the usual shape of which is also shown, as well as 
 the shape of the mould, which is made of one piece of board, 
 to correspond only to one side of the stern. 
 
 One of two methods is usually followed in boat building, 
 either the lapstreak or clincher, as described for canoes, or 
 the carvel or smooth build ; the latter being used only where 
 planking is thick enough to caulk, and making a heavier 
 boat than the former. Whichever way is adopted, the boat 
 is usually built on stocks, keel downward; but unless of 
 large size, it will be easier to build it on a table, as described 
 for a canoe. 
 
 For a lapstreak boat, a keel or keelson (or if for a center- 
 board, a flat keel), will be used, as on pages 40 and 42. If 
 the stem is nearly straight, a knee will not be necessary, but 
 the stem may be cut out of oak plank, as at a. The keel c 
 is nailed to it, and the joint is strengthened by a chock e 
 bolted to both. As a boat is usually fuller at the bows than 
 a canoe, the thickness of the stem alone will not give suffi- 
 cient fastening for tho upper planks, so a piece b, called an 
 apron, is added inside the stem, wide enough to fill the space, 
 which the stem alone would not do. This apron is fitted 
 ju^t within the inner rabbet line, and extends from tlic top
 
 116 BOAT BUILDING. 
 
 of stem down about to the waterline, near which, as the 
 Jines become finer, the stem itself will be thick enough for 
 deadwoods. The apron may be from 1 to Sin. in a fore 
 and aft direction, its width depending on the fullness of the 
 bows. 
 
 The sternpost in a boat is of the shape shown at /, the 
 after side being cut away to receive the stern or transom h. 
 The sternpost is nailed or screwed to the keel, and in the 
 angle between the two is fitted the after deadwood g, in 
 which the rabbet is cut. In a lapstreak boat, the keel batten 
 d will run from the chock e, or from the stem, on top of keel 
 and after deadwood to the stern. 
 
 The frame being fastened together and the rabbets cut, it 
 is set upon the stocks, the keel is held in place by a few iron 
 nail? driven through into the stocks (to be cut off when the 
 boat is removed) and the stem and sternpost are lined up 
 plumb, and with the'proper fore and aft rake, and secured by 
 shores from above and below; see page 38, Fig. 9. The 
 transom is next cut out from some hard wood, using the 
 mould b. A vertical line is first drawn down the center of a 
 board of sufficient size, and at its lower end, at 2, the half 
 breadth of the 'sternposl is set off on eac'a side. A line is 
 drawn at right angles to this center line at the height of the 
 upper side of the gunwales, allowing enough above for the 
 round of the top of the stern, and on tliis line is laid off the 
 breadth of the stern, giving the points 1, 1. The mould 
 in now applied to one side and then the other, and when 
 both are marked the stern is cut out, allowing enough bevel, 
 as the fore side will, of course, be larger than the after side. 
 The stern is now nailed or screwed to the sternpost, com- 
 pleting the frame. 
 
 The moulds are next put in place, and shored from the 
 ceiling or from the floor, and a ridge piece is stretched from 
 stem to stern and nailed to each as well as to the moulds, 
 keeping all in position. 
 
 The operation of planking is now proceeded with precisely 
 as in a canoe (see page 4o), the stop waters being first put in. 
 The planking should be of cedar, in single lengths >.f
 
 .1 MA /7-: I r ll < 'A NOE B UILDINQ. 117 
 
 ble, but where cedar cannot, be obtained, -white pine or 
 even spruce may be used. The upper streak is usually of 
 hard wood, oak, walnut or mahogany, and is a little thicker 
 than the lower planking, and is sometimes rabbeted over it, 
 as shown in the sectional view. A bead is sometimes worked 
 near the lower edge, and just above the bead, if a gold stripe 
 is desired, a shallow depression x, called a "cove, "is plowed, 
 in which the gold is laid to protect it from injury. 
 
 After the planking is completed, the timbers are planed up 
 and put in as in a canoe, or if a neater job is desired, they 
 are made a little heavier at the heels, each one extending 
 only from the kcrl to gunwale, and are steamed and bent 
 first, then each is fitted to its place, marked and cut to fit 
 down closely to the planks, as shown in the section, after 
 which it is riveted in. Between each pair of timbers a 
 "floor" is fitted, similar to the timber, but extending across 
 the keel as high as the turn of the bilge on either side. 
 
 After the timbers are in and nails riveted the next operation 
 is to set the gunwales. These are pieces of ash or oak, ii, run- 
 ning inside of the upper streak, and covering the heads of the 
 timbers, which, are jogged into them as shown in the sec- 
 tion of upper streak, gunwale and timbers. The gunwales, 
 sometimes called inwales, may be in. deep, l wide at 
 center and taper to fin. at each end. They are planed up, 
 and if necessary steamed until they will bend easily; then 
 they are put in place resting on the heads of the timbers, 
 which latter have been cut off ^in. below top of upper streak, 
 and the position of each timber is marked. The gunwales 
 are then removed and the jogs cut, after which they are re- 
 placed and fastened by a nail through the upper streak at 
 each timber and one or more between the timbers. 
 
 After the gunwales are in, a breasthook I, worked from 
 a knee, is put in the bow, fitting the inner sides of the gun- 
 wales and the after side of the apron. A rivet of iin. 
 iron is put through stem, apron and throat of breasthook. 
 At the after corners, transom knees k k, are put in, being 
 riveted to the transom and also to the gunwale and upper 
 streak. An oak bead, half round in section, is usually run
 
 118 BOA T B TTILDING. 
 
 round the upper edge of the upper streak to complete it s 
 being nailed through into the gnnwale. 
 
 The interior arrangements of the boat depend on the taste 
 of the builder, but that shown is the usual one in rowboats. 
 In the bows is a small, triangular seat n, amidships are one 
 or more thwarts o o, according to the size of the boat, and 
 aft are the sternsheets or benches p. 
 
 All of these rest on two strips m, about 2xjin , which are 
 called the risings, and arc fastened to the timbers at a proper 
 height to support the seats, which should bo about 7iu. below 
 the top of gunwale. The seats in bow and stern are also 
 supported by ledges, and the forward ends of the latter are 
 either long enough to rest on the after thwart as shown, or 
 are supported by brackets. The thwarts should be strength- 
 ened by knees of wood j, well riveted. Sometimes a single 
 knee is used in the center of a thwart, fitted on it and riveted 
 down; and sometimes two are used, one near each edge. The 
 thwart in which the mast is stepped should be very strongly 
 fastened. Lockers are sometimes built under the seats, but 
 their construction is simple, and requires no special direction. 
 
 The floor is usually composed of several pieces, in the 
 center the "bottom board," q, of about 12in. wide, resting on 
 the ribs and held down by buttons or staples in the keelson; 
 outside of this the button boards r r, 3 to Sin. wide at center 
 and narrower at the ends. Several small strips are nailed 
 across the under side ot these to keep them from splitting, 
 which strips project ^in. from the inner edge, so as to enter 
 below the bottom board and hold down r r. Outside of these 
 pieces are two strips s s, about Sin. wide, and screwed to 
 the timbers. They are called the footlines, and on each are 
 two buttons, which turn over the outer edges of the button 
 boards, holding them down. Outs-de of each footline, and 
 also screwed to the timbers, arc the racks t t, to hold the 
 stretchers for the feet when rowing. Where the floor nar- 
 rows up in the stern it is raised a little, one wide piece, u, 
 being fitted, resting on two ledges screwed to the bottom. 
 
 There are many patterns of rowlock in use, of brass or gal- 
 vanized iron, and the old wooden thole pins are little used
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 119 
 
 for pleasure boats. The center of the rowlocks should be 
 from 9 to lOin. aft of the edge of the thwart. The rudder 
 will be hung as in a canoe, and fitted with a yoke and lines 
 for rowing and a tiller for sailing. A backboard, v, is usu- 
 ally fitted acro-s the stern, making a b;ick to the seat. The 
 name of the boat may be painted or carvi-d on it. The stem 
 is protected by a stemband of half-round iron or copper, 
 running well down on to the keel, and the angle at the heel 
 of the sternpost is usually protected by a similar piece, 
 called a scagband. The final processes of finishing and 
 painting have all been described in canoe building. 
 
 The construction of a carvel built boat varies somewhat 
 from a lapstreak, the operations resembling more those em- 
 ployed u ship building. The frame is prepared as for a 
 lapstreak boat, except that no keel batten is needed. The 
 rabbets being cut and the frame set up, the moulds are put 
 in place and a number of thin ribbands tacked over them. 
 Now, instead of the planking being laid the frame is first set 
 up complete. If the timbers are to be bent, as is usual for 
 small boats up to sailboats of 25ft. or over, a timber block is 
 made of a lit'Je greater curvature than the midship mould. 
 The ends are cut from a Id-inch board and cross pieces are 
 nailed to them, making a width of 2 to 3ft. A strip is nailed 
 across each end, projecting a few inches, and to these two 
 ends another piece is nailed, leaving room to insert the heels 
 of the timbers to be bent. The timbers are sawed out and 
 planed up, each being long enough to reach from the keel to 
 the gunwale. They aie about one-third deeper at the heel or 
 lower end than at the head ; for instance, in. deep at heel, 
 and ^in. at head. It is well to get them out and bend them 
 in pairs, that is, if the timber is to be fin. thick, |in. deep at 
 heel, and in. at head, the piece will be l|in. wide by |in. at 
 one end, and |in. at the other. This piece is steamed and 
 bent on the trap, then sawed in half and the edges planed, 
 making two pieces each fin. thick. 
 
 A steam-box of some kind is necessary for this work, the 
 size depending en the dimensions of the boat. Steam may 
 be made in an iron kettle supported over a wood fire in any
 
 120 BOAT BUILDING. 
 
 convenient manner. A wooden lid is fitted, with a pipe also 
 of wood, leading to the steam chest. This may be made of 
 four pine boards, being 8ft. long and 8xlOin. square inside. 
 A light rack of lath is made to slide inside, on which to lay 
 the pieces to be steamed. One end is closed permanently, 
 and the other is fitted with a door, or a bundle of rags is 
 stuffed in, to confine the steam. The timbers being ready, 
 they are laid on the rack and slid into the box, which must 
 be full of hot steam, and left there until they will bend easily. 
 They are then removed one by one and bent over the timber 
 block, the heels first being inserted under the cross-piece, 
 then the heads slowly and carefully bent down, and fastened 
 with a cord, a screw-clamp or a nail. Of course the timbers 
 in various parts of the boat will vary in curvature, but all 
 may be bent on the one block, some being pressed down 
 closer than others. When Ihoy are cold they are removed 
 from the block, and before recovering their shape are stay- 
 lathed, a strip called a stay-lath being nailed across to pre- 
 vent the piece straightening out. 
 
 All the timbers are treated thus, and left to cool. Each 
 pair must be marked in some w:iy to prevent confusion. 
 The timbers do not cross the keel, but meet on it, and to 
 join them a floor timber is placed next to each pair. The 
 floors may be sawed from straight stuff in some cases, but 
 toward the ends, and at the middle also if the boat is sharp, 
 they mu'st be cut from grown knees. If the boat has been 
 properly laid down on the mould floor, the floor timbers are 
 taken from the lines on the floor, each being sawed to the 
 proper shape and fastened to the keel by a nail or bolt of 
 round iron (not a screw bolt with nut). After the floors 
 are in place, the timbers are taken, one pair at a time, 
 and fitted in their respective positions. Some will not coin- 
 cide exactly with the lines of the ribbons, but they may be 
 made to do so by straightening them out a little. 
 
 The tendency of bent timbers is to straighten out, so all 
 are bent to a little greater curvature than the ribbands re- 
 quire, and in fitting are allowed to straighten a little. Every 
 timber must touch all the ribbands, or there will be an un-
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 121 
 
 fair spot that cannot be remedied, as the timbers are too 
 light to allow any cutting away. The timbers are nailed to 
 the keel r nd the floor timbers, and also to a few of the rib- 
 bands to hold them in place, all being carefully set plumb, 
 and square to the keel. 
 
 The widths of the planks are next laid off on the timbers, 
 and stem and stern, no allowance for lap being necessary, of 
 course; and a spiling is taken, not for the gnrboard, but for 
 the wale or upper streak. This is got out and nailed to the 
 timbers, and the streak below it is also put on; then the boat 
 is taken from the stocks, turned over, and the garboardsput 
 on. The planking will be thicker than for lapstreak, not 
 less than fin., which is as thin as will stand caulking. After 
 the garboards are laid, the broadstreaks follow, then the 
 planking i3 continued from top and bottom alternately, until 
 an opening is left on the bilge for the last plank, which is 
 called the shutter. 
 
 When this is in and fastened, the nails are driven 
 home and riveted, the inside work completed, the bottom 
 roughly planed off, when the seams are ready for caulking. 
 
 This operation is performed with a wide, blunt chisel 
 called a caulking iron, and a wooden mallet. The iron is 
 driven into the scam, opening it slightly, then a thread of 
 raw cotton is driven in, using the iron and mallet. On small 
 work, cotton lampwick is used instead of raw cotton. To 
 caulk a boat properly requires care and practice, and the 
 amateur, in default of practical instructions, will do well 
 to employ a caulker. After the seams are caulked they 
 should be well painted over the cotton, using a very narrow 
 brush, as the paint will help to keep in the cotton. 
 
 The hull is next planed smooth, sandpapered and painted, 
 after which all seams and nail holes are puttied, all is well 
 sandpapered again, and painted with two coats. 
 
 If the boat is to have a deck and waterways, as shown in 
 some of the designs, no gunwale will be necessary; but the 
 upper streak will be heavy enough to take the fastenings at 
 the edge of the deck. A clamp or shelf will be worked in 
 place of a gunwale along the timbers inside, and low enough
 
 122 BOAT BUILDING . 
 
 for the deck beams to rest on it. These beams will be fast- 
 ened to upper streak and clamp with knees on each beam 
 about the mast. The deck may be of f or ^in. pine, either 
 painted or covered with canvas. The dimensions of the 
 boat given in tlie illustration are as follows: Length over all, 
 14ft. ; beam extreme, 4ft. ; depth amidships, 17in. ; sheer for- 
 ward, 7^in. ; sheer aft, 5in. Waterlines, Sin. apart. The 
 waterlines are drawn for convenience parallel to the keel, 
 but the actual draft of the boat will be Tin. forward and 
 9^in. aft. Keel outside, lin. ; keel, stem and stern tided, 
 tiin. ; keel batten, fx'^in. ; timbers, fxfin. ; spaced 12in., 
 with bent floors between each pair of timbers; planking, 
 |in. ; upperstreak, ^in. ; gunwale, lin. deep, 1J wide amid- 
 ships, fin. at ends.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 COMPARISON OF CANOE ELEMENTS. 
 
 AS AN AID to the amateur designer in deciding on the 
 proportions of his craft, the following table has been 
 compiled, giving the elements of some of the best known 
 boats. The first column gives the length on waterline, the 
 second the beam at loadline, and the third the ratio of length 
 to beam or >.. The fourth column gives the distance of 
 
 D 
 
 the midship section from the fore end of waterline, and the 
 fifth and sixth give the proportions of fore body and after 
 body. The seventh column contains the product of the 
 length on waterline, beam, and depth from waterline to 
 rabbet, giving an approximate comparison of the displace- 
 ments. In order to compare the relative fullness of the 
 various models on the waterline, the forward part of the 
 waterline is divided in half, and a line K C, Plate I. is 
 drawn and measured. This line is called the "middle 
 ordinate," and is greater as the waterline is fuller. Column 
 seven shows the ratio of this middle ordinate to the extreme 
 breadth of the waterline, the average being about .36. As a 
 further comparison, a dividing buttock line r, is drawn 
 in the half bnadth plan, parallel to the centerline, and mid 
 way between it and the greatest beam. This line intersects 
 the waterliue in two places, r in the forebody, and v in the 
 afterbody. The distance of each intersection from its 
 respective end of the waterline, or the lines r *, I v, are 
 measured, and columns eight and nine give respectively the 
 ratios of r s, to the length of forebody, and t o to the length
 
 124 COMPARISON OF CANOK ELEMENTS. 
 
 of afterbody. By the aid of these three columns the water- 
 lines may be run in readily in the preliminary drawing. All 
 measurements, for the convenience of calculation, are in feet 
 and decimals. 
 
 
 loadiine. 
 
 j 
 
 jq 
 1 
 
 ;ion from 
 
 3 
 
 Is 
 
 |j 
 
 
 Iddle or- 
 beam. 
 
 O 
 
 ,O 03 
 
 3 
 
 
 c 
 
 ^ 
 
 i 
 
 
 *M . 
 
 <M . 
 
 
 = ~ 
 
 O +^ 
 
 .2-3 
 
 ELEMENTS OF CANOES. 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 *H 
 
 $11 
 
 M^ 
 
 <2^ 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 ^ > CJ 
 
 
 A 
 
 a 
 
 O G 
 
 ,_ O' 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 ot; 
 
 1 i 
 
 
 S3 
 Mi 
 
 a 
 
 8 
 
 o .= ; _oiJ 
 
 33 o 
 
 X 
 
 m 
 
 .2.1 
 
 *""S ' fci "S 
 
 
 
 1 \" '** 
 
 P3 -- 
 
 2 
 
 si-M 
 
 M 
 
 X 
 
 ^ 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 Nautilus, Cruising. 1830 
 
 14. 
 
 2.33 
 
 6. 
 
 7. 
 
 .50 
 
 .53 
 
 13 9 
 
 .SO 
 
 .39 
 
 30 
 
 NamilusNo. 8, Racing. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1879 
 
 13.66 
 
 2.75 
 
 5. 
 
 8. 
 
 .5!. 
 
 .41 
 
 33.8 
 
 .st 
 
 .34 
 
 .S6 
 
 Nautilus No. 9. Racing 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and Cruising, 1881... 
 
 13.9 
 
 5.75 
 
 5. 
 
 7.5 
 
 .54 
 
 .46 
 
 19.1 
 
 .36 
 
 34 
 
 .25 
 
 Nautilus No. 5. Racing 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and Cruising, 1874. . . 
 
 12.8 
 
 J.75 
 
 4.95 
 
 7. 
 
 .54 
 
 .46 
 
 18.5 
 
 .33 
 
 .86 
 
 .32 
 
 Pearl No. 3, Cruising. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1882 
 
 15. 
 
 2.63 
 
 5.7 
 
 7.5 
 
 .50 
 
 .50 
 
 ,6.6 
 
 .38 
 
 .33 
 
 .33 
 
 Pearl No. 5, Racing 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and Cruising, 18SO. . . 
 
 14. 
 
 2.6 
 
 5.4 
 
 7 
 
 .50 
 
 .50 
 
 15.3 
 
 355 
 
 .29 
 
 .29 
 
 Pearl No. 6, Racing 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and Cruising, 1882. . . 
 
 14. 
 
 3.63 
 
 53 
 
 7. 
 
 .50 
 
 .50 
 
 19.9 
 
 .35 
 
 .36 
 
 .34 
 
 Clyde Wren, Cruising. 
 1879 
 
 13.5 
 
 2.22 
 
 6.1 
 
 6.75 
 
 .50 
 
 .50 
 
 12.4 
 
 .30 
 
 .47 
 
 .46 
 
 Clyde Laloo, Racing 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and Cruising, 1881. . 
 
 15.83 
 
 ? 4 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 50 
 
 50 
 
 19 
 
 3? 
 
 37 
 
 25 
 
 Shadow, Cruising, 1878 
 
 13.75 
 
 2.42 
 
 5.7 
 
 6.65 
 
 .48 
 
 .52 
 
 14.0 
 
 .36 
 
 .37 
 
 .43 
 
 Rob Roy, Cruising. 18b7 
 
 13.1 
 
 2.0 
 
 6.5 
 
 6.55 
 
 .50 
 
 .60 
 
 9.7 
 
 31 
 
 .39 
 
 .44 
 
 Jersey Blue No. 1, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cruising, 1878 
 
 13. 
 
 2.42 
 
 5.4 
 
 7.55 
 
 .58 
 
 .42 
 
 13.2 
 
 .35 
 
 .38 
 
 .46 
 
 Jersey Blue No. 2, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cruising, 1880 
 
 13.45 2.42 
 
 5.56 6.E5 
 
 .48 
 
 .52 
 
 16.3 
 
 .37 
 
 89 
 
 .40 
 
 Raritania, Cruising, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1882 
 
 12.72;2 22 
 
 5.726.3-2 
 
 .49 
 
 .51 
 
 12.6 
 
 .37 
 
 .29 37 
 
 Kill von Kull, 1880 
 
 17. 
 
 1.96 
 
 8.9 
 
 8.5 
 
 .50 
 
 .50 
 
 12.0 
 
 .49 
 
 .32 
 
 .30
 
 MEASUREMENT RULES. 
 
 AMERICAN CANOE ASSOCIATION. 
 
 RULE 1. A canoe to compete in any race of the A. C. A. 
 must be sharp at both ends, with no counter stern, or tran- 
 som, and must be capable of being efficiently paddled by 
 one man. To compete in A. C. A. paddling races, it must 
 come within the limits of one of the numbered classes, 
 I., II., III., IV., and to compete in sailing races, it must 
 come within the limits of either Class A or B. 
 
 CLASS I. Paddling. Any canoe. 
 
 CLASS II. Paddling. Length not over 15ft., beam not 
 under 26iii. Depth not under Sin. 
 
 CLASS III. Paddling. Length not over 16ft., beam 
 not under 28in. Depth not under 9in. 
 
 CLASS IV. Paddling. Length not over 16ft., beam 
 not under 30in. Depth as in Class III. 
 
 CLASS A. Sailing. Length not over 16ft., beam not 
 over 28in. 
 
 CLASS B. Sailing. Length not over 17in., with a 
 limit of 28Ain. beam for that length. The beam may be 
 increased Jin. for each full inch of length decreased. 
 
 The greatest depth of a canoe in Classes A and B, at 
 fore end of well, from under side of deck amidships to 
 inner side of garboard next to keel, shall not exceed 16in. 
 
 In centerboard canoes the keel outside of the garboard 
 shaL not exceed l^in. in depth, including a metal keel
 
 136 MEASUREMENT RULES. 
 
 band of not over ^in. deep. The total weight of all cen- 
 terboards shall not exceed 60 pounds; and they must not 
 drop more than I8in. below the garboard; when hauled 
 up they must not project below the keel except as fellows: 
 Canoes built before May 1, 1885, may be fitted with cen- 
 terboards which, when hauled up, may project below the 
 keel, provided such projection of board and case is not 
 more than 2in. in depth below the garboard, and not 
 more than 36in. in length. In order to be admitted in 
 races without ballast, the centerboard or boards, includ- 
 ing bolts and other movable parts, but not including fixed 
 trunks c r cases, must not exceed 15 pounds in total weight. 
 Cances without centerboards may carry keels, not over 
 Sin. deep from garboards, and not weighing more than 
 35 pounds. Leeboards may be carried by canoes not 
 having centerboards. 
 
 MEASUREMENT. The length shall be taken between 
 perpendiculars at the fore side of stem 'and at the aft side 
 of stern, the beam at the widest part not including bead- 
 ing, which shall not, in Classes A and B, exceed l^in. in 
 depth, any beading over this depth being included in the 
 beam. The word "beam" shall mean the breadth formed 
 by the fair lines of the boat, and the beam at and near 
 the waterline in the paddling classes shall bear a reason- 
 able proportion to the beam at the gunwale. The Regatta 
 Committee shall have power to disqualify any canoe 
 which, in their opinion, is built with an evident intention 
 to evade the above rules. As the minimum in Class IV. 
 coincides with the maximum in Class B, a margin of iin. 
 is to be allowed in measuring for these classes, in order 
 that a canoe built to come well within one class may not 
 thereby be ruled out of another.
 
 A MA TEUR CANOE B U1LD13G. 12'. 
 
 ROYAL CANOE CLUB. 
 
 Canoes for paddling races must not be of greater length, 
 not of less beam and must be of the material and construc- 
 tion set out in the following classes : 
 
 FIRST CLASS. Any cauoe. 
 
 SKCOND CLASS (Hob Roy). Any material or build, deck- 
 ed with wood ; greatest length not more than 15ft., greatest 
 beam not more than 26in. 
 
 THIKD CLASS (Rob Roy). Clinker built, of tiny material, 
 decked with wood ; greatest length not more than loft., 
 greatest beam not less than 26in. 
 
 Canoes for sailing races shall not be over the following 
 dimensions, viz. : 
 
 FIRST CLASS. Any material and build; greatest length 
 over all, from stem to sternpost, not more than 20ft., with a 
 limit of beam of 2ft., but the beam maybe increased by 
 IJiu. for each whole foot of length decreased; greatest depth 
 at fore end of well, under the center of the deck to the gar- 
 board, not more than 16in. Fixed keel of wood, not more 
 than 2in. deep; a metal band not exceeding -Jin. in depth, 
 may be added to the wooden keel, in which case the depth, 
 of the keel inclusive of band must not exceed 2in. 
 
 One or more boards are allowed of any material, thickness 
 not exceeding $in. ; length, combined if more than one, not 
 exceeding half the canoe's length: depth of drop not exceed- 
 ing 18in. below the fixed keel or its metal band. "When 
 hauled up they must be completely housed within the canoe. 
 
 All ballast, anchors or other metal weights (except center- 
 board and keelband before described, and metal deck fittings) 
 shall be carried within the canoe, above the garboards. Bal- 
 1 ,.st may be shifted during a race, but all ballast on board at 
 starting must be carried throughout the race. 
 
 Second Class Cruising Canoes. The canoes in this class 
 shall not exceed the dimensions of First Class. Keels and 
 centerboards as in First Class. "VTciirlit of canoe, including 
 all spars, gear, fitting and ballast, not over 200 pounds.
 
 STEERING GEAR U 
 
 "V[O detail of the fittings of canoes is as important for 
 "-^ safety and comfort, as that by which the rudder is con- 
 trolled, and no part is so often ill-contrived and badly fitted 
 up. 
 
 The strong and simple tiller of the sailboat cannot be used, 
 owing to the distance of the crew from the stern of the boat, 
 and also to the necessity of using the feet for steering, the 
 hands being fully occupied with the sheets, paddle and cen- 
 terboard. To be of any real use, the footgear must be 
 strong, as a very heavy strain is often thrown on it involun- 
 tarily by the powerful toggle-joints of the knees, an'l the fail- 
 ure of any part, when in rough water or in rapids, might 
 bring disaster to the boat and crew. 
 
 The action of the rudder must be prompt and certain 
 without lost motion, there must bo a firm bearing for the 
 heels in paddling, and for the ball of the foot in steering, and 
 both must be readily adjustable to suit the length of the leg 
 of the crew. As canoeists know, it is often a great relief, 
 when in the canoe for a long time, to slacken out the foot 
 gear, and lean back easily while sailing or paddling i-lowly, 
 but as soon as a hard paddle is in prospect, the body is set- 
 tled upright against the backboard, and the footgear short- 
 ened up until the feet are braced firmly against it for a long, 
 swinging stroke. The footgear must also be so arranged as tc 
 be readily removed for sleeping, stowing luggage, or to carry 
 a second person, and, if possible, it should be so fitted that 
 the second man can steer while paddling. 
 
 From the days of the earliest canoeist to the time of 
 McGregor, the paddle only was used for steering, either helu 
 in the hands or resting in a small rowlock on either side,
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 129 
 
 called a crutch Fig. 1 a plan that answered well with the 
 small sail then used; but with the greater number and area 
 of sails something more became necessary, and rudders were 
 fitted, controlled by a continuous line passing along the 
 deck and around the fore end of the well, a pull on either 
 side steering the boat. The increased work thrown on the 
 hands by the addition of ballast, centerboard, spinnaker, 
 etc., made it necessary to transfer the steering to the feet, 
 which had hitherto been idle, so the rudder lines were run 
 through the coamiutr into the well, and loops tied in the ends 
 into which the feet were inserted, an arrangement still 
 further improved by the addition of metal stirrups. This 
 gave a very powerful and sensitive gear, and it was not in 
 the way in the least, but there were some serious defects in 
 it; there being no brace for the feet in paddling, the stirrups 
 were apt to slip off at times when it was impossible to stop 
 and lean forward and replace them, while in case of an up- 
 set the lines might not free themselves and would entangle 
 the canoeist's feet. In one case a canoeist, forgetting to 
 loosen his feet, leaped ashore suddenly and was thrown flat 
 in the water by the rudder lines 
 
 A much better plan was devised by Mr. Baden-Powell for 
 his first Nautilus canoe. As shown in Fig. 3, a vertical 
 spindle of wood has its lower end fitted to turn in a step on 
 the keelson, the upper end running through the deck, the 
 projecting portion being square. Below the deck a crossbar, 
 called the "foot yoke," was fitted to the spindle, and above 
 deck a second crosspiecc, the "deck yoke," was fitted to the 
 square head, the rudder lines running along the deck to it. 
 This jifiir was used for a long time on the Nautilus and all 
 its descendants, and is still often met with. It had many 
 defects, there was no brace in paddling, its position, once 
 fixed, could not be changed, so it was usually just too long 
 or too short for the crew, it was in the way in stowing, 
 sleeping, or carrying double, the lines on deck added to the 
 confusion there, and the parts required careful fitting, and 
 brass bushings at the joints, or they soon, worked loose. 
 Several of these objections were removed by some ingenious
 
 130 STEERING GEAR. 
 
 canoeist, who cast aside the deck yoke, lengthened the foot 
 yoke and ran the lines inside the well, to the extremities of 
 the latter. 
 
 The gear shown in Fig. 4 was first fitted to the canoe 
 Janette, in 1877. Two pieces of wood, each l^xliin. and 
 lOin. long, were screwed to the bottom on each side of the 
 keel, running fore and aft, each piece having four vertical 
 notches to receive the stretcher, a piece of oak |in. thick. 
 
 On the foreside of the stretcher a piece of oak lin. square 
 was screwed, the upper end rounded for the foot yoke to 
 pivot on. The stretcher could be slipped into either of the 
 four pairs of notches, and was then held down by a hook 
 and a screwcye in the keel. This gear gave a firm rest in 
 paddling, it was strong in construction, there was no lost 
 motion, and it could be quickly shifted (to make room for a 
 second person) to a pair of similar notches placed forward. 
 
 An improvement on this plan is shown in Fig. 5, in which 
 the two fore and aft pieces are grooved on the sides facing 
 each other, and a piece of oak fin. thick and 6in. wide 
 is fitted to slide freely between them. To this piece the 
 stretcher or footpiece is fastened, and in the angle between 
 them is a brass knee or biace, shown separately, the top 
 of which forms a pivot for the footyoke. An eye is cast 
 on the afterside of the brace, in which a short lanyard 
 is spliced. This lanyard reeves through a screweye in the 
 keel, and by it the gear may be held in any position, or by 
 casting it off, the entire piece may be removed. Another 
 pair of slides can be fitted forward or aft, as may be desired 
 for carrying two. This gear seems to fulfill every requisite, 
 and has thus far answered well wherever tried. 
 
 The canoe Raven has a novel arrangement, shown in Fig. 
 6, consisting of two wooden pedals hinged at the bottom to 
 a brass rod, a rudder line being attached to the outer corner 
 of each.. A stout brass spring maintains a constant tension 
 on the pedals, and is so formed as to hold them flat on the 
 floor when the rudder lines are cast off. By this arrange- 
 ment the rudder is alwaj's kept amidship when left to itself. 
 The brass rod is held in two holes in the fore and aft cleats,
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 131 
 
 and may be adjusted in the other holes as shown. A better 
 plan would be to hinge the pedals with the spring on a 
 board sliding as in Fig. 5, for which purpose the ordinary 
 spring butts of brass answer very \vell. 
 
 The steering gear, shown in Fig. 7, in which the foot yoke 
 is carried on a spindle passing through and supported by an 
 arched piece of wood, the lower end resting in one of several 
 holes in the floor, was devised by Mr. Rushton. The ends 
 of the arched piece slide in grooved pieces on the floor, and 
 by pulling up the spindle the gear may be slid forward or 
 backward, the spindle end being shipped again in one of the 
 holes. 
 
 Where there is a centerboard in the canoe the footyoke h 
 pivoted in a bracket on the after end of the trunk, in which 
 case its position is fixed, and the length can only be changed 
 by using a straight, concave or convex yoke. The Pearl 
 canoe is fitted with a yoke attached lo the trunk. Fig. 8, but 
 in order to steer with the feet when lying down, as is done in 
 sailing to windward, the yoke has two loops of leather 
 fastened to its fore side, in which the feet are inserted. 
 
 In most of the match-sailing in this country the crew is 
 seated on the deck and the footgear is out of reach. To steer 
 from the deck, a tiller, shown in Fig. 9, is used, having been 
 first applied to the Dot in 1879, and since fitted to many 
 other canoes. A yoke is pivoted on deck just aft of the 
 hatch, and to this yoke a short tiller is fastened within easy 
 reach of the hand. Two short lines join the ends of the 
 deck and rudder yokes. All parts of the gear require to be 
 made very strongly, as a great strain is sometimes thrown on 
 the tiller by the weight of the body. The tiller is sometimes 
 lilted to pivot on the mizzen mast, and is so arranged that a 
 turn of the handle clamps it fast, in any position. Another 
 device for steering by hand was applied to the Folly, 8. F. 
 C. C., by her owner; a half yoke only is used on the rudder, 
 Fig. 2., with a stud in the end. A pole long enough to reach 
 the well has a ring in one end, which is slipped over the 
 stud, a push or pull on the pole moves the rudder. A Ian- 
 yard ou thu fore end of the pole is belayed to a cleat and
 
 132 STEERING GEAR. 
 
 keeps it from going adrift if dropped suddenly. This gear 
 is used in the left hand, and is not well adapted to steering 
 from deck. 
 
 Another device, only mentioned to warn canoeists against 
 it, has a single stirrup on one side, with a powerful spring 
 on the other. Should the foot be suddenly removed from 
 the stirrup the rudder is drawn quickly to one side and held 
 there. The proper material for rudder lines has long been a 
 subject of dispute among canoeists, and is still undecided, 
 some advocating copper wire, some chain, some a rope of 
 brass or copper wire, and some a braided or hard laid cord, 
 the last being probably the best, if well stretched and oiled. 
 It will work easily and without the disagreeable clang of 
 wire, and will not kink as chain will do. Whatever material 
 is used, it should lead as directly as possible from the foot- 
 gear to the rudder, with no sharp turns, and holes and 
 screweyes through which it passes should be perfectly 
 smooth. The rudder lines are in some cases run through 
 brass tubes below deck, but this is seldom necessary, and 
 they are best led in around the after side of the well coam- 
 ing. Some means of taking up the slack in the line is neces- 
 sary, the usual way being to use a small "fiddle" similar to 
 those used for tent ropes, as in Fig. 4. If obtainable, small 
 snap-hooks should be used to attach the lines to the yokes. 
 
 When in use, the steering gear should be examined often, 
 the parts oiled, new lines put in if required, and all parts 
 kept in perfect order. Before a race, of course, it will 
 receive special attention, any parts that appear weak being 
 strengthened for the occasion. Such care is never thrown 
 away, and it is from the lack of just such attention that pro 
 yoking mishaps occur.
 
 THE FARNHAM APRON. 
 
 MR. FARNHAM offers the following additional instruc 
 tions concerning the apron described on page 63. 
 
 1. Carline wires are bent so as to form a hook outside the 
 beading of the coaming, but they do not hook under this 
 beading, for they would then prevent the apron from com- 
 ing free in case of a capsize. 
 
 2. If the forward tube were fastened directly to the coam- 
 ing, as shown, the apron could not be pushed far enough 
 forward to uncover all the cockpit. 
 
 3. The apron is not kept down by the ends of the carlines 
 hooking under the beading, but by the elastic in the hem, 
 
 4. The latch or catch to keep the apron stretched must 
 be just forward of the last carline /, and not at i. The 
 apron will not readily come free if fastened at i. 
 
 5. The apron is better cut 4 to 5 inches larger each way 
 than the coaming. The hem is then wide enough to give 
 two thicknesses of cloth along the top of the coaming, 
 where the wear is greatest. 
 
 THE WINDWARD CANOE TENT. 
 
 A BETTER tent than the one described on page 100 is now 
 -^ *- used on the Windward. The top is a triangle, the 
 width at the after end being 2ft. The sides are also triangu- 
 lar, about 2ift. wide at after ends. The fore ends of top and 
 sides meet in a point, which is fastened to the bow of the 
 canoe. 
 
 The after part of the tent is square, 2x2ift., and the 
 upper edge is sewn to the after end of the top, making a 
 hem, in which is a small stick. The tent is hung by a line 
 from the mizzenmast to this stick. The seams, from the 
 ends of the Ktick to the Low, where the sides join the roof, 
 should be sewn to a light rope, or the sides will be drawn 
 out of shape.
 
 COMPOSITE CENTERBOARDS. 
 
 r PHE following plan for the construction of a oenterboard 
 
 is illustrated in Plate XVIII. : 
 
 The sailing canoes of the Royal Canoe Club, of England, 
 frequently carried centerboards of thick iron plate, weighing 
 fifty or sixty pounds. Several canoes, chiefly "Pearls," 
 have recently been built to carry similar heavy centerboards 
 on this side of the Atlantic. A heavy iron centerboard 
 forms most excellent ballast when lowered, but it has some 
 disadvantages. It is unhandy to lift in and out of the canoe, 
 especially if the latter is bobbing about on broken water by 
 a wharf. "When fully housed in the centerboard box, it 
 makes a good deal of top-haavy weight, and helps the canoe 
 to roll. Acting on a hint given to me by Mr. W. P. 
 Stephens, at Lake George last August, I have designed, and 
 have had constructed a centerboard loaded with lead, in 
 which the greater part of the weight is concentrated in the 
 lower part of the board. A skeleton frame of bar iron is 
 first made, and on each side of this is riveted a sheet of 
 iron -,' 6 -in. thick. This makes a hollow centerboard of a 
 total thickness of fin. , and weighing 23 pounds. Two light 
 iron frames, -^in. wide, with long handles, are made to fit 
 into the lower part of the inside of the centerboard. These 
 frames are loaded with lead, and each then weighs 13 pounds, 
 thus making the total weight of the centerboard 49 pounds 
 when fully loaded. This new board will, I think, be found 
 to possess the following advantages: 
 
 The weight being concentrated in the bottom of the center- 
 board gives better ballasting power with less actual weight. 
 I hope that my 49-pound board will give as much sail 
 carrying power as a 65-pound iron plate would.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 135 
 
 The lead-loaded board will act as ballast even when 
 housed in the canoe, and will not make the canoe roll, as 
 the greater part of the weight is tnen within 5 inches of the 
 bottom line of the keel. 
 
 For the same reason, most valuable help is afforded in 
 righting the canoe when capsized, even if the board should 
 slip back into the box or had not been lowered. A button 
 across the slot on deck will prevent the board being un- 
 shipped in the event of the canoe turning bottom up. 
 
 Wh<;n sailing in shallow water the whole weight of the 
 lead can be got below the keel by lowering the centerboard 
 Sin. only. 
 
 It is much easier to handle in removing it from the canoe 
 or putting it on board. Irstead of one heavy lift of 50 
 pounds, you first remove 13 pounds of lead, then lift another 
 13, and finish witli a lift of 23 pounds. 
 
 When a light centerboard only is wanted, leave the lead 
 at home. This will in some cases save the necessity of a 
 man keeping two centerboards. 
 
 In the accompanying drawing, at figure 1, the board is 
 shown with one side removed, so as to bring the internal 
 economy to view. Starting at F, the frame is continued to 
 E, thence to D and L. It is not continued up to the top 
 corner at C, but is taken across to M, continuing to I, it 
 doubles back in a sort of loop, and is welded at N. This 
 gives doubled strength at M and Bb, where the greatest 
 strain is. The dotted line A B shows the line of the keel 
 when the board is lowered. The portion of the frame from 
 E to about M is made of bar iron deep by |in. thick. 
 From E to L it is chamfered off to an edge, as shown by 
 the line R R R, so as to cut the water easily. A hook Is 
 welded on at P, which hooks on to the king bolt. Where 
 the sheet iron is, the frame i* 4in. thick; where not covered 
 with sheet iron G, I, A, and F to O it is $ thick, so as to 
 give a uniform thickness throughout. 
 
 The sheet iron is shown by the lightly shaded part. 
 Starting at P, its outer edge passes H, and Aa to G where it 
 is level with tha oufcr edge of the centerboard. It con-
 
 136 COMPOSITE CENTERBOARDS. 
 
 tinues past M and C to L, where it takes a jog inward for 
 half an inch to the line R R R. It follows the chamfer 
 along the bottom of the board to near E and up to P again. 
 The upper corner L C M is composed merely of the two 
 thicknesses of sheet iron, and is only an eighth of an. inch 
 thick, except where it widens oat as it approaches the bar 
 L M. This, while giving plenty of strength, gives room for 
 the chain shackle at C without thinning down and weaken- 
 ing the frame, and it also reduces somewhat the top-heavj r 
 weight of frame at the corner. These two sheets of iron, 
 -i' 6 -in. thick, are riveted to the frame by copper rivets as 
 shown, and are chamfered off from L to D and D to E, to 
 correspond with the chamfer of the frame. From C to L 
 the edges of the sheets are brought together so as 1o continue 
 the sharp edge. Figure 2 gives a full-sized section at one of 
 the rivets. The two frames which contain the lead arc 
 made of Ix-^in. iron, hammered on the edge down to-,^, 
 which increases the thickness slightly. They are shown at 
 S, T, U, V, and X, Y, Z, O. The lead is held by pieces of 
 stout wire which are riveted in the frames before the melted 
 lead is poured into them. These wires are shown by dotted 
 lines. The frames are fitted with long handles V I and O J, 
 which terminate in eyes I and J. Above the eye J is a but- 
 ton K, working on a bolt F, secured by two jammed nuts 
 below. This makes it impossible for the lead to fall out if 
 the centerboard is upside down. The eyes I and J project 
 above the deck. 
 
 To take out the lead when the board is housed in its box, 
 turn the button K, put your finger in the eye J, and lift out 
 the forward lead fiame, then by means of the eye I, drag 
 the aft frame forward, and lift it out. 
 
 ROBERT TYSON, Toronto Canoe Club. 
 
 The smaller sketch is a suggestion of Mr. King's, in con- 
 nection with the same design.
 
 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES, 
 
 PLATE I. CRUISING CANOE "JERSEY BLUE." 
 
 The first canoe of this name was designed and built by 
 Mr. W. P. Stephens in the winter of 1877-78, being intended 
 for a cruising boat. The dimensions were nearly the same 
 as the present boat, but the model was quite different, with 
 greater sheer, long bow and full quarters. She was fitted 
 with deck hatches, sliding hatch to well, rudder, and the 
 footgear shown in Fig. 4, Plate XVII., and was rigged as a 
 schooner, two boom and gaff sails and jib. The rig was 
 subsequently changed to leg of mutton, and later to balance 
 lug. The model shown in Plate I. and II. was designed 
 iu 1880 for the same purpose ns the preceding one, general 
 cruising, and a number of canoes have been built from it. 
 
 Plate I. shows the lines of the boat, and also method of 
 putting them on paper as explained in the chapter on design- 
 ing. The dimensions and table of offsets are given on pages 
 13 and 22. In cruising this canoe will carry a mainsail of 
 45!"t., with mizzen of 18 to 20, and in racing, a mainsail of 
 6"' to 70 sq. ft. 
 
 PLATE II. "JERSEY BLUE," CONSTRUCTION DRAWING. 
 
 This drawing shows the arrangement of decks, bulkheads, 
 etc , and the general construction of the same canoe, and is 
 described on pages 52-55. 
 
 PLATE III. RIVER CANOE, "RARITANIA." 
 
 This canoe was designed by Mr. "W. P. Stephens in 1882, 
 
 for work on small rivers and streams. She is built with a 
 
 flat keel, and can befitted with a centerboard or a false keel 
 
 of wood can be screwed on. The floor is flat, the keel pro-
 
 138 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES, 
 
 jects but Jin., and on each side are oak bilge keels in< 
 square. On to these and the main keel the boat rests 
 squarely, and may be dragged without injury. Two sails 
 are used, either lug of mutton or lateen, the latter being the 
 better. Their areas may be 15 and 30ft. for cruising. 
 Lenath 14ft., beam 27in., depth amidships 9|in., she^ at 
 bow 3Jin., sbeer at stern 2jln., crown of deck 3in. 
 
 Half Breadths. 
 
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 Heights. 
 
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 A MA TEUR CANOE B UILDING. 139 
 
 PLATE IV. THE SHADOW CANOE "DOT." 
 This model was designed by cx-Com. W. L. Alden, N. Y. 
 C. C., in 1878, and was built by Mr. James Everson. The 
 Dot was the third of the model and was built in 1878, since 
 which she has been widely known as a successful racing and 
 cruising boat. Her first cruise was from New York to Ron- 
 dout, in 1878, and in 1880 she made a cruise on the Susque- 
 hanna, from Binghamton to Harrisburg, in nine and a 
 half days, since which she has made many short cruises, 
 besides several of some length. Her first race was in the re- 
 gatta of 1879, in which she was beaten by boats with larger 
 keels. In 1880 the keel was increased to 2|in., and in 1883 
 to 3in., which depth is sufficient to take her to windward, 
 as she has won nearly every sailing race in which she has 
 entered, including five for the Challenge Cup, besides win- 
 ning all of the sailing prizes but one in her class at Lake 
 George in 1882. Her best run on a crui ; e was fifty miles in 
 ten hours under sail and paddle, from New York down the 
 Sound. Her owner, Mr. Vaux, was one of the first in this 
 country to use lug sails, having two standing lugs, which 
 were changed in 1881 for balance lugs. She was also the 
 first boat steered with a tiller, the crew sitting upon deck. 
 The following are her principal dimensions: Ft. In. 
 
 Length over all 14 4 
 
 Beam at Waterline 30 
 
 Beam at deck 8 
 
 Depth at bow 16^ 
 
 Depth at stern !(% 
 
 Depth amidships C}x> 
 
 Depth of keel 2J^ 
 
 Distance from fore side of stem- 
 To forward hatch -J | g 
 
 To center of mainmast 2 6 
 
 To forward bulkhead 3 6 
 
 To fore end of coaming 4 6J 
 
 To sliding bulkhead 8 11 
 
 To after end of well 10 3 
 
 To bulkhead 30 10 
 
 To center of mizzanmast 11 4 
 
 To after hatch... 
 
 * ** "Mi 
 
 Weight of hull when In use, 93 pounds.
 
 140 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 
 
 TABLE OF OFFSETS FOR CANOE "DOT.' 
 
 H 1-1 
 
 9^ 
 9% 
 
 Half Breadths. 
 
 Deck. L W. L. No. 2. No 
 
 1H4 
 
 & 
 
 14 
 
 Diagonals. 
 
 A. B. C. D 
 
 52% 
 
 CM 
 
 The keel, stem and stern are lin. thick; planking (lap- 
 streak, 5 planks on each, side), Jin, ; decks and hatches, Jin. ; 
 ribs of oak, Jxfin., spaced 6in. apart. Many changes have 
 been made in the boat as experience has shown them to be 
 necessary; the fore bulkhead, shown by dotted lines, has 
 been removed, the fore hatch permanently fastened down, 
 Sin. of ket.1 added, foremast tube shifted forward and en. 
 larged from If to 2in., the old steering gear, with a yoke on 
 deck and one below, replaced by a yoke below deck on a 
 vertical pivot, and the elliptical well entirely covered with 
 hatches changed to one with a pointed, flaring coaming, 
 with an apron. The paddle used for several seasons past 
 has been 9ft. long. 
 
 PLATE V. RACING SAIL OP THE "DOT." 
 The racing rig of the Dot con ists of two balance lus, of 
 70ft. and 25ft., the larger of which is shown in Plate V. 
 
 DIMENSIONS OF SAILS. 
 
 Main. Mizzen. 
 
 Luff 6ft. lOin. 4ft. 
 
 Leach, 10t, Gin. 6ft. 4in. 
 
 Foot Oft. Sin. 5ft.9in. 
 
 Head 7ft. 3in. 4ft. 4in. 
 
 Tack to peak 13ft. 7ft. 8in. 
 
 Clew to throat 10ft. 7in. 6ft. Sin. 
 
 Area 70 sq f t. 25 sq. ft. 
 
 Battens 24in. apart on leach ar.d 22in. on luff.
 
 A MA TEUR CANOE B UILDING. 141 
 
 When the sail is taut the ring on the yard is drawn close 
 in to the mast, raising the yard and throwing the fore end a 
 little further forward than it is shown. The halliard a a, is 
 hooked into an eye on the parrel, c, (the latter made fast to 
 the yard just forward of the mast) from which it loads 
 through a ring on the yard, thence through a block d, at the 
 mast head, and down through a ring lashed to the mast, near 
 the deck, from which it leads to a cleat abreast the well. The 
 tack b b is seized to the boom just forward of the mast, and 
 leads through a hook on the boom abaft the mast, under a 
 hook in the deck, and to its cleats. 
 
 The parrels e e, are made fast to the battens just forward 
 and aft of the mast, and when in place, hold the sail in to the 
 mast, keeping it flatter, and relieving the masthead of con- 
 siderable strain. The reefing gear is rigged as follows: Three 
 deadeyes, ///, arc seized to the boom as shown. The reef 
 line h, from the leach, is in two parts from the batten to the 
 deadeye, one part on each side of the sail. At the deadeye. 
 they unite into one part, leading forward along the boom, 
 through the middle deadeye, thence through the block i, on 
 fore reef line. This line g also runs down each side of the 
 sail, through the deadeye, and is then lashed to the tingle 
 block i. A pull on the hauling part (the halliard being first 
 slacked away) brings boom and batU n snugly together, the 
 line is belayed to the ek-at on the boom, and the middle reef- 
 points I hooked together, or a third line may be added in 
 place of the points. A similar arrangement may be rigged 
 on the batten, drawing down a second reef. The points on 
 the halliard where it is belayed when a reef is hauled down 
 are marked with colored thread, so the halliard can be slacked 
 away the proper distance, made fast, and the reef hauled in 
 and belayed. A sling about 18in. long has both ends seized 
 to the boom. On this a deadeye travels, to which the sheet 
 is fastened. 
 
 PLATE VI. CLYDE CANOE "LALOO." 
 The following description of the Lr:loo, with the draw- 
 ings, was furnished by Mr. C. G. Y. Kinrr, of the Clyde C.
 
 142 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 
 
 C., a well-known canoeist, as well as an amateur designer and 
 builder. The design differs in many respects from American 
 models, and has never been tried in competition with them. 
 It will be noticed that the lines, which show the inside of 
 planking, are narrowed in amidships to allow the boat to 
 spread in building. 
 
 Mr. King says: Talking one evening over a quiet pipe 
 with an old canoeing friend, Charlie Livingstone, of Liver 
 pool, we both agreed that a new design of canoe was neci'S. 
 sary (to our ideas), and if not actually promoting canoeing, 
 it would give us some new experience in canoes. So we set 
 to work sketching free-hand designs, and in course of time 
 hit upon the idea of a canoe having very full lines aft, car- 
 rying the floor well forward, so as to give the basis of a full 
 bow which at the same time would look as if it were extra 
 fine. Our aim was to build a canoe that would, for her size, 
 be the stiff est under sail, quickest under paddle, and a good 
 dry seaboat. We succeeded. The lines of accompanying 
 drawing are the inside or skin lines. 
 
 To those who do not understand what that means, a few 
 words will explain. The principal dimensions of the canoe 
 are: Length, 16ft. ; beam, 3lin. ; depth from inside of gir- 
 boards to top of top-streak amidships, llfin. ; depth of keel, 
 including metal band, 2Jin. In setting up the frames it is a 
 wise thing to cut them at most lin. less beam amidship 
 than beam required when finished, as the thickness of the 
 planks each side has to be allowed for, and the boat is almost 
 dead certain to fall out after the tie beams are removed pre- 
 vious to screwing down the deck. 
 
 The drawings give a sheer plan, a body plan and a deck 
 plan. The lines A and B in all three are buttock lines. The 
 waterlines are indicated in the body and deck plans by 1,, ' 
 2,, 3,, 4,, and cross sections in body and deck plans by 1, 2, 
 3, 5, 0, 7. The midship section is somewhat different from 
 what is or what the writer knows as the Shadow model . The 
 Shadow has too much tumble home and loses stability as she 
 lies over to a breeze. 
 
 The Laloo has her greatest beam at the gunwale, and has
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 143 
 
 no tumble from bow to stern, thereby increasing her stability 
 from her waterliue to her deck, and enabling her to carry an 
 extra amount of sail. Her sail power by calculution is 
 53 sq. ft., and she is able to carry that spread without bal- 
 last. She can carry safely for racing purposes 114 pounds 
 of lead, and with that amount she can carry 85 sq. ft. sail. 
 The best style of sail to have, especially in Scotch waters, is 
 the batten s:iil with a running reefing gear, which enables 
 the canoeist to reef his sail close down while under way, and 
 without more exertion than hauling on a cord specially 
 arranged for the purpose. 
 
 The Laloo's rig is one lug sail of GJ sq. ft., which is a 
 handy siz ; for cruising or racing, and 70 pounds of lead, 40 
 pounds placed at fore end of well in front of the foot-steer- 
 ing ge; r, and 30 pounds placed aft the eliding bulkhead at 
 aft end of well. To those who might contemplate building 
 such a craft a few over-all dimensions of deck fittings might 
 come iu handy. Length over all, from bow to sternpost, IGl't. ; 
 from bow to center of mast step, 2ft. lOin. ; from center of 
 mast step to fore end of well, 4ft. ; from fore end of well 
 to aft end of well, 3ft. 5in. from aft end of well to aft end 
 of hatch, 1ft. 6f in. ; from aft end of hatch to sternpost, 4ft. ; 
 width of well at fore end, 1ft. ; width of well at aft end, 
 :.i't. ; width of locker hatch at fore end, 1ft. Sin. ; width of 
 locker hatch at aft end, 1ft. lin. ; height of well coamings, 
 liin. ; diameter of mast at deck, 2in. ; diameter of mast at 
 head, l^in., height of mast from deck, 10ft. To anyone 
 sludying these lines and comparing them with those of other 
 craft, the difference will be very marked. It was predicted 
 by those who saw the canoe under construction that she 
 would have a heavy drag aft, but such is not the case. She 
 enters the water with perfect sweetness and leaves it with- 
 out a ripple even when running before a good breeze in a 
 calm sea. Her stability and sail-carrying powers leave no 
 loophole for adverse criticism. To Mr. Livingstone is all 
 the credit due for insisting on carrying out and building 
 these strange lines for a canoe to have. She is easy to pad- 
 dle considering her 8lin. beam, and her stowage capacity
 
 144 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 
 
 is most ample for a long cruise. She is perfectly open down 
 below, fore and aft; has no water-tight bulkheads, but has 
 instead probably india rubber air bags fitted to her shape 
 (before deck is screwed down at bow and stern). These bags 
 will be about a couple of feet long, and can be inflated at 
 will, and have more than enough buoyancy to float the canoe 
 when full of water, and with her crew on board. 
 
 At the aft end of well is a sliding bulkhead, and by re- 
 moving it and folding back the hatch-lid H, room can be 
 made for a crew of two; or when cruising alone without a 
 tent a comfortable couch can be obtained in a few seconds. 
 
 PLATE VII. SAIL PLAN OF "LALOO." 
 This sail has an area of 60 sq. ft. ; the first reef has 16 sq. 
 ft. ; second reef, 15 sq. ft. ; leaving 29 sq. ft. for a close reef 
 when blowing hard. Figure 1 is a full sail plan, showing all 
 the rigging necessary without being complicated. A are main 
 halliard blocks at masthead and foot of mast; D is double 
 block for topping lift; K is single small block for jackstay; 
 J S, jackstay; M H, main halliard; T L, topping lifts one 
 on each bide of sail; B, reefing battens; R, reef points; RC, 
 forward reef cord; R C 2, after reef cord; P, loop and toggle 
 to secure lower end of topping lift; C, cleat to receive R C 
 2 when reef is hauled down. 
 
 S = parrel on boom, on which runs a deadeye or block, 
 to which is fastened main sheet. When lying close hauled 
 the block is at the after end of S, and S helps to distribute 
 strain OH boom; when running free block is at fore end of 
 S and main sheet does not drag in the water. M = mast. W 
 on boom and on each batten are parrels to keep sail close up 
 to mast so that it won't bag with the wind. "W O, jack 
 block. Figure 2 illustrates on a large scale how to fasten 
 halliard to yard so as to dispense with the services of a trav- 
 eler. T at the throat is a loop fastened to the yard through 
 which passes a toggle on the end of the halliard. The hal- 
 liard then passes round the opposite side of the mast, from 
 which yard and sail are, is reeved through block B on yard, 
 then through block A at masthead, then down to block at
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 145 
 
 mast foot and thence to cleat. The topping lifts are toggled 
 to boom so as to be easily detached when spinnaker is to be 
 hoisted, spinnaker head l3'ing ready to be fastened to either 
 as required, the other topping lift remaining in its place. 
 
 The jsukstay is rigged on the outside of the sail, so that 
 when sail is lowered the triangular part at boom, Y Z, pre- 
 vents the sail from flopping over the deck on the one side, 
 while the nast prevents it on the other. X is a brass rod at 
 the masthead for a fly. There are several plans by which 
 the sail can be reefed "instantaneously." The one here 
 shown the writer has found to work the best. Let us start 
 at the back and follow the first reef all round. One end cf 
 the cord is secured at the back, and is rove through brass 
 rings -, a u - diameter sewn on sail whore shown, then through 
 block at luff of first batten, then through block in line of 
 mast, then down to a deadeye at mast foot, then to cleat 
 wherever handiest for owner. Then the after part has to be 
 looked to. Rig cord in the same way, starting at the clew 
 and cleat on C at boom. This gives a very handy plan for 
 reefing quickly if caught in a squall while racing. When 
 the squall has passed slack out reef cords and hoist yard at 
 once. For a good, deliberate reef while cruising it would be 
 well to tie down reef points as well, as the extra time it 
 takes is not wasted. It is a capital plan to have all blocks 
 for use about the mast fastened to the mast and not to the 
 deck, so that when one comes ashore to dismantle, the mast, 
 sail and rigging can be removed and returned without the 
 bother of always re rigging. 
 
 The Laloo was designed to be sailed without a mizzen. 
 though an after sail is of great service in mostly all weather. 
 
 PLATE VIII. NAUTILUS RACING AND CRUISING CANOE. 
 
 For the drawings of this canoe, as well r.s the two follow- 
 ing ones, and the canoe yawls, we are indebted to "Yacht 
 and Bout Sailing." This canoe was designed by Mr. Baden- 
 Powell, for open water cruising and for racing under the 
 R.C.C. rules. The main obj jets in view were sleeping room, 
 good sailing lines and light draft. Centerboard of plate-iron,
 
 146 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 
 
 83 Ibs. Length, 14ft. ; beam, 33in. ; depth arnidship, 14in.; 
 sheer at bow, 7fin. ; do. at stern, 5in. ; draft, 7in ; keel, lin. 
 
 AA Mast tubes. BB-Headledges. C -Centerboard. D Fore 
 b Ikhead, with door. E Drain pipes to compartment. F Footyoke. 
 G Deckyobe. H -Handle of centerboard. I Hauling UD gear of 
 centerboard. J Rack for cleats. K Fore hatch. L After hatch. 
 M Seat for paddling. N After bulkhead, with door. O Floor 
 boards. P Backboard for paddling. S Sheer for rudder tricingline. 
 
 Half Breadths. Depths. 
 
 O ?. ^ O JH O 
 ? P S P. o 
 
 1 1 i 1 5 
 
 2, * ^ 
 5' o <? 
 
 3 a 
 
 : f 
 
 Sections 
 
 
 
 
 
 : : | 
 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 X 
 
 eo 
 
 O it _ 
 
 M 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 O CT CO 
 
 
 
 -* g | > | 
 
 ee 
 
 1 
 
 o 
 
 M 
 
 * "2 
 
 * 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 i 
 
 Ol CS CO 
 
 CT 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 OS CS CO 
 
 OS 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 os os no 
 
 -J 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 K 
 
 1 * 
 
 00 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 O5 C5 HO 
 
 co 
 
 OS 
 
 K 
 
 1 
 
 ~t 
 
 S OS CO 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 (O 
 
 H 
 
 I * 
 
 JJ 
 
 CO 
 
 $ 
 
 B3 
 
 -~ 
 
 1 I 
 
 to 
 
 -I 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 55 ' -"i 
 
 CO 
 
 i i i i I 
 
 s 
 
 The sails are two balance lugs of 95 and 2osq, ft.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 147 
 
 PLATE IX. PEAKL CRUISING CANOE. 
 The family of Pearls, designed by Mr. E. B. Tredwen, 
 R.C.C., numbers nine different models, the design in I he plate 
 being No. 3. She is designed for open water cruising as well 
 as rat ing. Dimensions: Length, 15ft. ; beam, 31^in. ; depth 
 amidships llin ; sheer at bow, 5in. ; sheer at stern, 3m. 
 
 
 Half Breadths. 
 
 Stations 
 
 
 p 
 
 f 
 
 S 
 
 F 
 
 -' 
 
 r Gunwale 
 
 Rise of Rabbet Lire. 
 
 Rabbet Line to Gunwale. 
 
 X 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ~ 
 
 00 
 
 _ 
 
 cs 
 ft 
 
 K 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 T 
 
 i 
 
 - 
 
 14 
 
 g 
 
 s 
 
 -J- 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 * 
 
 
 1 
 
 ||| S X JK 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 | 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 S 5 1 I 1 ! 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ~ 
 
 W 5 CT S 
 
 Os. W^ 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 -- 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 I 
 
 
 X 
 
 ta 
 
 K 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 30 
 
 i 
 
 s 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 g 
 
 i 
 
 ^ 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 fo 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 M 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 3D 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 CO 
 
 X 
 
 K 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 2 
 
 1
 
 148 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 
 
 PLATE X. PEARL CANOE No. 6. 
 
 This canoe was designed to compete not only with canoes, 
 but in the races of the Thames gigs, boats much larger than 
 canoes, and she has been remarkably successful both with 
 them and her own class. She is fitted with two centerboards 
 of Muntz metal, the forward one of 68 pounds, being fin. 
 thick. The sail carried is 105ft. in mainsail, and about 40tt. 
 in mizz n, the latter being fitted to reef, by rolling on the 
 boom. Length 14ft., beam 33in., depth amidships, 14in., 
 sheer at bow Tin., at stern 4in. 
 
 Half Breadths. Heights. 
 
 2 S 5 Q St ft) 
 
 p p p f f 
 
 3 3 3 <j 3 o g" 
 
 P P s> 3 & s. 
 
 3 $ 1 1 ' 8? 
 
 E 1 ^ ^ M ? 
 
 5 5" 5' * 5? 
 c <t a " o 
 
 : : . Co 
 
 Stations 
 
 
 
 
 a> g, 
 V? 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 g 
 
 OS 
 
 lU O 1-" -J 
 
 ^ JS ** 
 
 CO 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 W\ QlK KV W\ 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 g 
 
 wis ce 
 
 f X* y? \ oo 
 
 ^ tpv i^; I 
 
 X 
 
 ^ 
 
 i 
 
 i 5 I 
 
 * 
 
 " * ^ i g 
 
 CT 
 
 ^ X S " 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 So K 
 
 - 
 
 I 
 
 a 
 
 -r 
 
 i 
 
 r. ifr. 
 
 00 
 
 to 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 a 
 
 Cn ct 
 v-a vij 
 *S! tf*. 
 
 co 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 ~ 
 
 E or S 
 
 5S SK 
 
 S 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 1 I X 1 
 
 I 
 
 g 
 
 00 
 
 \* N>-* NJ- N 
 
 X\ OCv fsS Ot\ 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 00 
 
 z ~ 
 
 O* C5 ^* Cf 
 ^ ^ NT 4 
 
 4&v it^ od\ J 
 
 a
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 149 
 
 PLATE XI. AMERICAN CRUISING CANOE. 
 
 This canoe was designed in 1883 by Mr. W. P. Stephens, 
 of the New York C. C., for general cruising and racing. 
 
 I 
 
 DEPTHS. 
 
 HALF-BREADTHS. 
 
 Deck. 
 
 Rabbet. 
 
 Deck. 
 
 6in. 
 
 4m. 
 
 2in. 
 
 
 
 2 
 3 
 
 4 
 5 
 6 
 
 8 
 9 
 10 
 
 n 
 I-- 
 
 13 
 14 
 
 Ft. In. 
 1 
 1 4* 
 1 2 7 
 1 1< 
 1 s 
 II 5 
 11" 
 It 
 11' 
 IP 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 I 5 
 
 1 2* 
 1 4 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 Ft. In. 
 0' 
 
 <ri 
 
 7* 
 10" 
 1 0" 
 1 1* 
 
 1 2 
 1 2 
 1 
 1 i 
 1 1 
 10 
 7. 
 
 0< 
 0' 
 
 Ft. In. 
 6 1 
 
 2 3 
 5> 
 8> 
 10' 
 ] 1 
 1 2* 
 1 2' 
 1 2 
 1 1" 
 11" 
 9 
 5" 
 2 
 0' 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 I 3 
 0< 
 0' 
 
 
 1* 
 4 
 C 
 9* 
 11 
 1 I 3 
 1 2" 
 1 2 
 1 s 
 10< 
 7* 
 4 
 2 
 
 
 
 2' 
 4< 
 6 
 9" 
 11" 
 1 Oft 
 11' 
 102 
 7 
 Ri 
 2 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 0' 
 0* 
 1' 
 
 
 
 To make the same lines answer for a 15x30 canoe, the moulds, 
 six in number, may be spaced 25 7 in. apart instead of 24in.. as 
 shown. An extra mould at each end, Nos. 1 and 13, will be useful 
 in building. 
 
 The movable bulkhead is placed 8ft. 3in. from the 
 bow, and shapes aft, giving an easier position to the 
 body than when vertical. The after bulkhead is placed 
 9ft. 9in. from the bow, and is fitted so as to be water- 
 tight up to the top of the coaming, which runs aft 15in. 
 further, the bulkhead projecting -^ -in., or the thickness 
 of the hatches, above the coaming. On the top of this 
 bulkhead is screwed a strip of flat brass d, ^in. thick 
 (see Plate XVIII.) and wide enough to project fin. on 
 each side of the latter; thus, if the bulkhead is ^in. thick, 
 the brass should be l^in. The cuddy hatch & is -&in. 
 thick, flat, with no crown, and extends from the fore side 
 of the bulkhead to the shifting bulkhead, and may pro- 
 ject a little over the latter. In width it extends fin. over
 
 150 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 
 
 the coaming on each side, allowing side pieces Jin. thick to 
 be nailed to it, the latter extending down to the deck. The 
 grain should run athwartship, and the hatch may be 
 strengthened by a batten screwed to the under side, running 
 fore and aft. The after hatch a is made in a similar man- 
 ner, but extends aft of the well fin., with a piece across the" 
 end as well as on the sides. The side pieces of both hatches 
 meet at the joint shown. 
 
 *Both hatches turn on flat brass hinges with brass pins, 
 which are riveted to the brass strip, an 1 the hatches may bo 
 fastened with hooks and screweyes on deck, or with hasps 
 and padlocks. The cuddy hatch is opened by turning it aft, 
 while the after one turns forward, each when open lying flat 
 on top of the other. The side pieces, reaching to the deck, 
 keep out any spray or waves, and the brass strip, if not per- 
 fectly water-tight, may be made so by a strip of rubber 
 cloth Sin. wide tacked to both hatches', covering the strip 
 and its joints. Of course neither of these ba'ches will keep 
 out all water when capsized, but they will be much dryer 
 than the ordinary deck hatches, they cannot be lost or left 
 behind, the cuddy hatch is quickly turned over out of the 
 way, they are easily opened and shut and cannot drop off 
 and allow the contents to fall out if capsized, while being 
 flat, they can be made very strong and will not warp as all 
 curved hatches do. 
 
 Now to make the after one water-tight. The coaming 
 inside will be probably 2in. deep or a -little more, and 
 around its lower edge, as well as across the bulkhead, a 
 beading made of four strips g, g, each ^in. square, is screwed 
 strongly, and on this beading is laid a small tube or band of 
 soft rubber. The inner hatch c is a board fin. thick, with 
 two battens on the under side to prevent warping, and is 
 large enough to fit neatly inside the coaming, resting on the 
 rubber tube or washer. To hold this hatch down, a cross 
 beam e is used, of oak lin. square at the middle, \\ here a 
 brass thumbscrew /passes through, and lin. wide by $in. 
 thick at the ends. It is lin. longer than the distance between 
 the coaming to the bulkhead. This beam slips into two 
 
 * In fitting this arrangement the hinges and rubber have teen 
 discarded as unnecessary.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 151 
 
 notches, one in bulkhead, and one in the coaming at after end 
 of well, at such a height that it can be slipped in freely, 
 when the hatch c is in place, when a couple of turns of the 
 thumbscrew / brings the hatch down firmly on the rubber. 
 As this inner hatch is a flat board, and is completely pro- 
 tected from sun and water, it cannot warp as^xposed hatches 
 do, and it is so covered by the outer hatch, that no water 
 can reach it unless the boat has her masts level with the 
 water. As for simplicity, in spite of the long explanation it 
 is quickly worked, the outer hatch is unhooked and turned 
 over, making a flat table on which to lay articlesin packing, 
 the thumbscrew is turned twice, the crossbeam and hatch 
 lifted out, and all is open. The thumbscrew may run into a 
 socket in the hatch, thus attaching the latter and the beam, 
 and a lanyard made fast inside, but long enough to allow 
 the hatch to be lifted off, will prevent either being lost, so 
 that there will be no detached parts. 
 
 The objection may be made that the flat hatch is less grace- 
 ful than the curved one, but on the other hand it can be 
 much stronger, it will not warp, and will certainly be dryer, 
 while folding flat on top, it takes little room when opened. 
 If a tiller is used, it will fit in a socket like the whiffletree 
 fastening and not over a pin. The fore end of the cuddy 
 hatch should have a small beading to prevent any water run- 
 ning into the well. Plate XVIII. shows a view from above, 
 with the outer after hatch opened, side views with the same 
 opened and closed, and a vertical section through the center, 
 with details of beam and thumbscrew and brass-covered 
 joint. 
 
 With this division of the boat, the after end will be 
 devoted to bedding, extra clothing and articles which must 
 be kept dry, usually the lighter portion of the load, while 
 forward will be stowed the mess chest, cooking traps, and 
 heavier articles until a proper trim is obtained. 
 
 The masts are stepped according to the latest practice of 
 canoeists, and if it were not for the necessity of sometimes 
 unstepping the mainmast while afloat, it would be better to 
 place it 9in. further forward, or 15in. from the bow, and for
 
 152 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 
 
 racing it should be so placed. Both tubes are shown of the 
 same size, Sin. at deck and 1^ at bottom, so that the mizzen 
 may be used forward in high winds. The rudder may be 
 cf the new drop form, or of fin. mahogany, and will 
 curve quickly aft from the waterline, so that it will not re- 
 tain weeds or lines which may drift under it. 
 
 The forward bulkhead is not shown, as canoeists now 
 differ so much in their ideas as to its proper place. It may 
 be so placed as to leave 7ft. between it and the after bulk- 
 head, being made as tight as possible, or it may be omitted 
 entirely, air tanks being used instead. 
 
 The rig for cruising will be about 50 and 20 ft., and for 
 racing, 70ft. in the mainsail and about 25 in mizzen. 
 
 The following construction is recommended as being the 
 best, and if properly fastened will be strong and light. Stem and 
 stern, hackmatack knees with proper grain lin. thick (sided) ; 
 keel of white oak fin. thick (in. outside, Jin. for rabbet, 
 and in. inside); width at center 2in. outside and Sin. inside. 
 No keel batten will be needed, the entire rabbet being 
 worked in the keel. The planking will be of clear white 
 cedar Jin. thick, laid with fin. lap, the lands outside being 
 rounded down at the ends. The upper streak, shown in 
 the plans, will be of mahogany, fin. thick, and should be of 
 strong, tough wood. This streak will be rabbeted on its 
 lower edge, lapping fin. over the streak below. The ribs 
 will be of white oak stave timber Jxf in., spaced 5in. apart, 
 each running across from gunwale to gunwale, except at the 
 extreme ends and abreast the centerboard trunk. They are 
 fastened with copper nails cut off and riveted over burrs, 
 not copper tacks, except at the extreme ends. The weakest 
 point of a canoe, especially those with flat keels, is the mid- 
 dle of the bottom, which in this boat is stiffened by the floor 
 ledges z z, Plate II. These, which are placed on each alternate 
 rib, are of oak, or better, hackmatack fin. thick, and deep 
 enough to raise the floor 2 or 2iin. They will of course be 
 straight on top, where the floor lies, and will fit the rib on 
 the lower side. They are fastened with long, slim copper 
 nails, through the laps and ribs, riveted on the upper side
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 158 
 
 of the ledge. This construction is both stronger and lighter 
 than the use of a thicker keel. The decks will be of 
 mahogany ^in. thick, and will be screwed to the upper edge 
 of the gunwale, which takes the place of the inner wale and 
 beading, making a strong, light top. The general arrange- 
 ment of deck frame and coaming has been fully described on 
 pages 5i 53. 
 
 In finishing the canoe the inside below decks is painted 
 inside of well, and entire outside is varnished, and a gold 
 stripe fin. wide is laid along the mahogany upper streak in. 
 from the lower edge. This gold stripe should be slightly below 
 the surface of the streak, to protect it, a "cove" or groove- 
 being ploughed to receive it ( Plate XVI.). 
 
 PLATE XII. TAXDEM CAJTOE. 
 
 Perhaps no boat taxes more severely the skill of the de- 
 signer than a modern canoe, as there are so many conflicting 
 qualities to combine in one harmonious whole, within very 
 narrow limits of size, weight and draft, but difficult as the 
 task is with a single canoe, it is still harder with a double 
 boat, and the best that can be expected is a compromise, 
 sacrificing many desirable points to others still more impor- 
 tant. Such a canoe should have, first, sufficient displace- 
 ment to float easily two men of average weight with their 
 stores; secondly, room for both men to sit in comfort, allow- 
 ing room to move around and stretch the legs; third, room 
 for their stores and clothing; fourth, a foot steering gear by 
 which either can steer. Such a boat is usually intended also 
 to be paddled by one man, if required, to accomplish which 
 no greater length is admissible than 16ft. both on account 
 of handiness and increased weight. 
 
 If the boat is intended for a long cruise, where much lug- 
 gage must be carried, a length of 17ft. with a beam of 32in. 
 would be better, but the same plans may be used, laying 
 down the sections 2oin. opart in the working drawing, 
 and placing the moulds at the same distance. To increase 
 the beam the boat may be made lin. deeper amidships, 
 the heights at stem and btcrn being the same ; then when
 
 154 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 
 
 planked and timbered, but "before putting in bulkheads or 
 deck beams, the sides may be sprung apart two inches with- 
 out affecting the fairness of the lines. 
 
 6. 
 
 Mainmast tube. 
 Fore bulkhead. 
 
 c. Slides for steering geai . 
 
 d. Fore hatch. 
 e e. Backboards. 
 /. Sliding hatch. 
 
 g. Footgear for after man. 
 
 7i. Floorboards. 
 
 i . Middle hatch, 
 
 fc. After hatch. 
 
 I. Door in bulkhead. 
 m. After bulkhead. 
 
 n. Mizzen rnast tubes, 
 
 o. Rudder lines. 
 
 TABLE OF OFFSETS. 
 
 Heights 
 I inches. 
 
 I... 
 II . 
 
 in. 
 
 IV.. 
 
 v.. 
 
 VI.. 
 
 If 4 
 g* 
 
 Half Breadths. 
 
 Deck. 
 
 4P* 
 
 15 
 15 
 14 
 9% 
 
 No,l. 
 W.I,. 
 
 L.W.L. 
 
 NO. a. 
 
 W. L. 
 
 Diag. 1. Diag. 2. 
 
 15 
 
 15U 
 
 Distance from fore side of stem: 
 To mainmast, 2ft. 9in. 
 Fore bulkhead, 3ft. 
 Fore end cf well, 5ft. 
 Sliding bulkhead, 8ft. 
 
 To Mizzen bulkhead, 13ft. 
 
 6in. 
 
 After bulkhead, 12ft, 
 After bulkhead, 12ft. 
 
 Sections 27^in. centers, waterlines Sin. apart, heights 
 measured from rabbet line at midships, planking Jin. lap of 
 planks fin., timbers -, 5 D -xfin., spaced 6in., keel, stem and stern 
 sided lin., keelson or keel batten -, & d x2in., deck in. 
 
 A yoke is provided on the afterside of the sliding bulkhead, 
 so that the after man may steer, while another style of foot 
 gear, shown in the body plan, is fitted to the slides forward, 
 which can be used either by the forward man or by a man 
 who is sailing alone. In the latter case the hatch i is 
 removed and stowed below, the bulkhead shifted aft to the 
 fore edge of hatch k, and the opening at after end of the well 
 closed with a canvas cover. This cover is made of duck, 
 painted, and fits down over the coaming and the edge of the
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 155 
 
 hatch. Around its lower edge are hooks, such as are used 
 on shoes for lacing, and a cord is run through them and over 
 screwheads on the coaming, holding the cover tightly down. 
 A door in the after bulkhead gives room there for storage, the 
 forward compartment being entirely closed. 
 
 PLATE XIII. SAIL PLAN OP TANDEM CANOE. 
 This sail plan of the double canoe is designed for cruising 
 rather than racing. The area of the mainsail is 63ft., reef- 
 ing down to 47 and 34ft., and the mizzen is 23ft., reefing to 
 14ft. 
 
 SPARS. 
 
 Mainmast Deck to truck, 10ft. Mizzenmast Deck to truck, 6ft. 
 
 Diam. at deck. 1214111. Diam. at deck, i^in. 
 
 l)iam. at truck, I^jin. Diam. at truck, %in. 
 
 Raka i^in. to 1ft. Rake %in. to Ifc. 
 
 Main boom Oft. ; rtiam. 1 J^io. Mizzen boom 5ft. 4in. ; diam. IJ^in. 
 
 Main yai-d 7ft.; diam. l^iin. Mizzen yard 4ft. Sin. : diam. IJ^m. 
 
 Main battens, oval, %xl}4' n - Mizzen battens, oval. %xlin. 
 
 SAILS. 
 
 Mainsail Head, 7ft. Mizzen Head, 4ft. 2in. 
 
 Foot, Oft. Foot, 5ft. 4in. 
 
 Luff, 6ft. 6in. Luff, 4ft. 
 
 Leach, 10ft. 2in. Leacb, 6ft. lin. 
 
 Tack to peak, 12ft. Tack to peak, 7ft. 8m. 
 
 Clew to throat, 10ft. 6in. Clew to throat, 6ft. 3in. 
 
 a a. Main tack. /. Mizzen halliard. 
 
 6 b. Main halliard. o. Mizzen tack. 
 
 ccc. Parrels. g. Mizzen sheet. 
 
 d. Main slieet sling-, n. n. Mizzen toppinglift. 
 
 e. Main sheet. m. Main loppinglift. 
 
 1 1. Main jackstay. 
 
 The main tack is led down through a block on the after 
 side of a brass spider band that encircles the mast, and is 
 belayed on the port side nearly amidships. The main hal- 
 liard leads down through a cheek block on the starboard 
 side of the spider band, and belays on a cleat on starboard 
 side of well, while the downhaul leads through a similar 
 block on the port side of mast to port side of well. The top- 
 pinglift is in two parts, fast to the masthead, and leads down 
 on both sides of the sail, and through a bullseye lashed on 
 the underside of the boom. The jackstay is also made fast
 
 156 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 
 
 at the masthead, leads down the port side outside of the sail, 
 and is lashed to the mast just above the hoom. In lowering 
 or setting the sail, it lies in the toppinglift and jackstay, 
 which prevent its falling overboard. 
 
 The mizzen tack leads direct to a cleat on the deck near 
 the mast, and the halliard leads through a single block 
 lashed to the mast, and is belayed to a cleat near the after 
 end of the well on the starboard side. The mizzen sheet 
 leads to a cleat on the coaming on the port side of the well. 
 The mizzen toppinglift is doubled (on both sides of the sail), 
 and also terminates in crowfeet on the lower ends. The 
 mizzen may be lowered and allowed to hang in it. 
 
 PLATE XIV. CANVAS CANOE. 
 Details of canvas canoe building are given on pages 111-114. 
 
 PLATE XV. ROWBOAT. 
 
 This boat is of the ordinary type of pleasure boat for row- 
 ing and fishing on lakes and rivers. Full details are given 
 on pages 115-122. 
 
 PLATE XYI. ROWING AND SAILING BOAT. 
 
 This boat was designed for sailing in a small bay, where 
 it frequently happens that after sailing some distance the 
 wind falls and it is necessary to row home, and it was desired 
 to keep her in a boathouse in order that she might be always 
 dry and ready for use when required. 
 
 Her length over all is 13ft., beam 4ft., draft aft when 
 loaded lOin., freeboard 1ft., at bow 1ft. 8in., at stern 1ft. 4in. 
 Owing to her depth, the centerboard, which is rather long, 
 is entirely under the two thwarts, and as much out of the 
 way as it can well be. It is of oak bolted through with Jin. 
 iron, and is fitted with a lifting rod of fin. brass, with a 
 handle at the top. This rod is so hinged as to turn down on 
 top of the trunk when the board is up, being held by a but- 
 ton. The mast is stepped in a tabernacle so as to be easily 
 removed for rowing. This tabernacle is made of two pieces 
 of oak 3x2in. at deck, above which they project 1-Jin. At
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 157 
 
 the bottom they are secured to au oak mast step, in which 
 is a mortise for the heei of the mast, and at deck they are 
 let into a piece of board Sin. wide, running athwartship, and 
 screwed firmly to each gunwale. From the mast to the bow 
 a deck of Jin. mahogany is laid which, with its framing, 
 holds the tabernacle firmly, and prevents any straining of 
 the boat. The forward side of the tabernacle is closed from 
 the step up to within 8m. of the deck, so that the mast will 
 not slip forward when being stepped. The heel is slipped 
 into the tabernacle, the mast raised up, falling into the step, 
 and a brass catch, pivoted at one end, is thrown across the 
 after side at deck and fastened with a turn of the thumb nut 
 shown. The sail is a balance lug, fitted with one batten: 
 Foot, 13ft.; head. Oft. 6in.; luff, 6ft; leach, 14ft. Gin. ; tack 
 to peak, 15ft. ; clew to throat, 13ft. Sin. ; batten above boom 
 2ft. 9in. on luff, 3ft. on leach; mast at deck, Sin. ; at head, 
 l^in. ; mast, heel to truck, 13ft. Sin. 
 
 The mast is square in the tabernacle, above which it is 
 round. The head of the sail is cut with a round of 9in., the 
 yard being bent to fit it. The sail is hoisted by a halliard 
 running through a strap on the yard just aft the mast, and 
 hooking into a similar strap forward of the mast. Below it 
 is led through a brass suatch block on the heel of the mast, 
 and aft to a cleat on the trunk, within reacli of the helmsman. 
 The tack is spliced to the boom just forward of mast, leads 
 through a bullseye lashed to boom abaft the mast, and down 
 to a cleat on the after side of the mast. The sail maybe 
 easily taken from the mast and stowed, for rowing, which 
 cannot be done with a boom and guff sail. The stem, stern 
 and keel are of white oak, the former two sided l^in., the 
 latter sided 4in. outside and moulded lin. The planking is 
 of white cedar, lapstreak, -i 5 b in. thick, the upper streak being 
 of fin. mahogany, The ribs are fx|in., spaced 9in., being 
 jogged down to the plank and copper riveted, the thwarts 
 are of fin. mahogany; rudder 15in. wide, of lin. mahogany, 
 fitted with tiller and yoke. The gunwales, of oak, are 
 Ixl^in. at midships and Ixfin. at ends. The sides of the 
 trunk, which is covered on top, are of dry white pine, Ifrin.
 
 158 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 
 
 at bottom and fin. at top. They are set flat on the keel, a 
 strip of canton flaunel well painted being laid between, and 
 fastened with fin. brass screws from outside of keel. The 
 ballast is of gravel, in 30-pound canvas bags. 
 
 
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 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 159 
 
 PLATE XVII. MOHICAN SAIL STEERING GEAR. 
 
 The members of the Mohican C. C., of Albany, have 
 found the balance lug sail unstated to their work, river sail- 
 ing and cruising, and have labored for * ome lime to find 
 something better, the result being the sail now described, 
 devised by Com. Oliver. This sail resembles somewhat the 
 sail of the Alatantis, as made and used by Mr. S. R. Stod- 
 dard, but it was fitted by Com. Oliver \vithout any knowl- 
 edge of the Stoddard sail, from which, however, the idea of 
 the reefing gear was afterwards taken. 
 
 In shape the sail is an ordinary balance lug, cut off at the 
 first reef, thus leaving a short luff, and one batten above the 
 boom. The sail is hoisted by a halliard d, which is prac- 
 tically continuous with the downhaul e. The halliard is 
 made fast to a brass ring a on the mast, thence it leads 
 through a snatch block c on the yard, through a block b on 
 masthead, thence through a block m at deck, and returns 
 through a block./, ending in a brass hook. The downhaul e 
 is fast to the batten i, runs down through rinses on the sail to 
 brass ring n. lashed to the mast. The two reef lines// are 
 double, one on each side of the sail, running through block 
 on the boom, and uniting in a single line, which is also part 
 of e, so that the three lines from batten to boom at middle, 
 fore and after ends really run through , as a single line, the 
 small ring in the bight, into which the halliard hooks, only 
 serving to equalize the pull. 
 
 The boom is held to the mast by a brass jaw g, above and 
 below which are leather collars C C, which prevent the 
 boom rising or falling, and render a tack line unnecessary. 
 A parrel may be used on the batten, or a jaw h. The ten- 
 sion on the halliard and reef lines is obtained by the line on 
 block j, by which all is hauled taut. 
 
 To set the sail the jaws are placed around the mast (g 
 being between the collars C C), the bight of the halliard, 
 next the ring is slipped into the snatch block c, the down- 
 haul and reef lints c f are passed through ring n, and the 
 end of the halliard hooked into the ring. Now the block
 
 160 DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. 
 
 j is drawn aft and its line belayed, putting a tension on the 
 halliard and downhaul. The sail is now ready to hoist. It 
 will be seen that the halliard, with block m, always remains 
 on the mast; in stowing the latter the block,;' is cast off, 
 leaving the halliard free. To take in a reef, that part of the 
 halliard to wliich e and /are attached is hauled aft, thus 
 slacking away the other part, and at the same time taking in 
 the reef neatly, with no ends to coil away or belay. It is 
 found in practice that the halliard will slip a little, letting 
 the sail down. To prevent this a little brass cam clutch, k, 
 is screwed to the deck, the halliard d being slipped into it. 
 The roller will jam the cord as it pulls forward, but a pull 
 aft will instantly release it. 
 
 Foot 9ft. 6in. 
 
 Head 10ft. 
 
 Leach 12ft. 6in. 
 
 Luff 3ft. 
 
 Tack to peak 12ft. 6in. 
 
 Clew to throat 9ft. lOin. 
 
 Total area 65ft. 
 
 Reefed 38J^ft. 
 
 For description of steering gears, see pages 128-132. 
 
 PLATE XVIII. CAJSOE HATCHES AND FITTINGS. 
 Bee page 149.
 
 THE PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 TN the three years that have passed since "Canoe and 
 -* Boat Building" was first published, the growth of 
 canoeing, as well as other forms of boat sailing, has been 
 very rapid, and the changes in the craft have been many, 
 some marked improvements being made. The principles 
 of building, treated in the first part of this book, are un- 
 altered, and in preparing the present edition the improve- 
 ments in model, rig and fittings have been described in 
 detail in connection with the best examples of the new 
 canoes, such as Lassie, Pecowsic, Notus and the two new 
 designs. 
 
 The year 1886 was a most important one in canoe racing, 
 being marked by the first meeting between the "heavy 
 ballast" English canoes, sailed with crew below, and the 
 various American models with crews seated on deck. 
 Canoe racing was reduced to a science in England some 
 years before it became at all popular in America, the re- 
 sult being that the British canoes were far superior in 
 fitting up and mechanical details to the American craft. 
 As in the case of yachting, the various details of the 
 English canoes have been used and thoroughly tested in 
 this country, with the result of the improvement of some 
 features and the total rejection of others, the leading 
 canoes of the A. C. A. now constituting a distinctly 
 marked national type. The result of the races sailed in 
 New York and on the St. Lawrence in 1886 has been to 
 show that both the "no ballast" canoe and the craft with 
 a moderate amount of ballast, say under lOOlbs., is much 
 faster than the Royal C. C. type with upward of SOOlbs. 
 One reason for the poor performance of the latter in
 
 162 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 American waters appears to be that the type was devel- 
 oped on a narrow river and a small pond, where the wind 
 is very puffy and unsteady; and further, the courses are 
 very short. To meet these requirements, the canoes have 
 relied on a large amount of ballast to carry a lofty sail, 
 necessary to utilize the wind between the banks and to 
 make the canoe safe in the flawy breezes, while owing to 
 the many turns required when a number of rounds of a 
 short course have to be made, the maneuvering powers 
 of the boats were developed to the fullest extent, in fact, 
 so far as to seriously impair the running and reaching. 
 No better example of this can be found than the wonder- 
 ful working of the Nautilus in Mr. Baden-Powell's hands; 
 with her weight and rcckered bottom she turned within 
 her own length, and was as completely under the control 
 of her owner as a bicycle would be. In marked contrast 
 to this were some of the American canoes, which, though 
 far faster off the wind, or even when on a long leg to 
 windward, were slow and uncertain in tacking and ma- 
 neuvering generally. 
 
 Until they were defeated at the A. C. A. meet of 1886, the 
 English canoeists held tenaciously to the inside position, 
 lying down in the beat, and thus were compelled to rely 
 on lead for the necessary stability, but while in America 
 both Nautilus and Pearl were sailed from the deck with 
 the reduction of about loOlbs. of ballast, and in both 
 cases the improvement in speed was most noticeable: in 
 fact if the two had been well sailed from the first in the 
 deck position, with little ballast besides the board, they 
 would have made a very much better showing in the 
 International races. So far as canoes are concerned, it is 
 certain that the day of heavy ballast and displacement is 
 past, and it is equally certain that if the value of the deck 
 position had been understood a few years since in Eng- 
 land and the races been sailed over more open courses 
 than the Thames and Hendon Lake, the "heavy ballast" 
 canoe of the Royal C. C. would never have come into 
 existence. Since their return both Mr. Baden-Powell, of
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 163 
 
 the Nautilus, and Mr. Stewart, of the Pearl, have designed 
 and sailed with success canoes of the American type, 
 and with the growth of canoe racing throughout Great 
 Britain that will follow the success of the newly organ- 
 ized British Canoe Association, the canoes are likely to 
 approach that type and the early English canoes of a 
 dozen years ago. 
 
 The question of no ballast vs. moderate ballast is by no 
 means so conclusively settled, and though the "no ballast" 
 canoes have won the majority of races in the past two 
 :;^a::ons, there is still reason to believe that a moderate 
 amount of ballast is desirable, perhaps part of it being in 
 the form of a centerboard of 401bs. or under. The ordi- 
 nary canoe is designed to displace besides her hull, spars, 
 sails and crew, the stores and outfit for a cruise, a weight 
 of about lOOlbs. This weight is in a clumsy and bulky 
 form, much of it stowed comparatively high, and no 
 man would carry it simply as ballast for racing, but his 
 canoe is supposed to cail at her best when trimmed with 
 this load for cruising; no.v when racing, with larger 
 sails, it would seem but proper that the displacement, 
 freeboard and load waterline should be kept as before, 
 1 lose and clumsy ballast such as blankets and provisions 
 being replaced by shot bags beneath the floor. No other 
 class of vessel is expected to sail exactly as well under 
 two very different conditions, and it is not clear why a 
 canoe should do so. The addition of lOOlbs. of ballast 
 does not necessitate appreciably fuller lines, the model 
 may be as sharp and clean cut as in any of the "no bal- 
 last" canoes, and though in the past the idea of lead bal- 
 last has to a great extent been associated with bulk and 
 full lines, there is still a wide field for the Class B canoe- 
 ist, especially on open waters, to study and experiment 
 in before giving his order for a Pecowsic. 
 
 Looking at the question of model, the examples given 
 cover a wide range, from the light Pecowsic to the 
 new design on Plates XXVII. , XXVIII. and XXIX., 
 a canoe of over 5001bs. displacement, and yet of easy
 
 164 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 form, totally different from the Pearls and the old Nau- 
 tili. The newest design, a 16x29 racing canoe, Plate 
 XXX., is intended to float a total displacement of less 
 than 2751bs., but the same lines may be utilized in build- 
 ing a 16x30 canoe with lin. more depth, an addition to 
 the present sheer, thus making a very fast and able canoe 
 for both racing and cruising. 
 
 In sails, the fashion has changed to the extent of dis- 
 carding old rigs without supplying anything specially 
 good to take their place, the endeavor being to get a sail 
 entirely abaft the mast, but at the same time easily reefed 
 or lowered. The most successful effort in this direction 
 is the rig shown in Plate XXIX., devised by Mr. C. J. 
 Stevens, New York C. C. The sails used en Pecowsic, 
 the invention of Mr. Barney, have been used by him with 
 great success in racing; but the general demand is for a 
 rig that will reef and lower In the West, the sprit sail 
 has been tried on canoes with some success, the sprit 
 being carried down and stepping en the boom about 4in. 
 from the mast, thus holding the boom down. The lateen, 
 Mohican and balance lug are just now in disfavor, canoe- 
 ists being engaged in various experiments, and it is im- 
 possible to say what the outcome will be. A very good 
 sail is shown on Plate XXVI. , that of the Notus, a lower- 
 ing leg of mutton. These rigs, with many details of 
 fitting, are fully described in connection with the plates.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 165 
 
 PLATES XIX. and XX CLASS A CANOE "LASSIE." 
 
 The Lassie was designed as an attempt to get good speed 
 clo=e windward work, a fairly light and small canoe to carry 
 a moderate amount of ballast always a heavy load to han- 
 
 ? 
 
 die and to be a good cruising canoe for all but very narrow 
 and rapid waters. She has proved herself fast under sail and 
 paddle, easy to handle on the water and ashore, amply large 
 enough for a man of medium height and weight, and needs 
 but 751bs. of ballast at the most; with all this she is very 
 steady before the wind. She is a Class A canoe, but allowed 
 in Class B races, aud just comes within the limits of Class 
 III paddling. 
 
 The dimensions 15ft.x28in. and the points arrived at 
 were given to Mr. Everson, who worked out the problem in 
 his own way, and to whom all credit for the result is due. 
 
 Two flat brass plates were used for the boards, placed as 
 shown in the drawing, as beingthe best for windward results 
 it was thought, not overlooking convenience at the same 
 lime. For cruising the after board can be dispensed with and 
 the slot in the keel plugged. The forward plate can be re-
 
 1G6 
 
 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 moved and a wooden board substituted, thus saving about 
 201 bs. in dead weight. The ballast all goes below the floor, 
 and is held in by the floor boards buttoned down. It is thin 
 in the vt ry best place. The canoe is steady before the wind 
 since she draws more water than the Sunbeam unless 
 heavily ballasted being narrower. The motio-i from side 
 to side is a very easy one, quite unlike the quick roll of a 
 flat-floored canoe. The manipulation of the two boards 
 takes time to acquire, so that the maximum result can be 
 obtained. They largely decrease the work that has to be 
 done by the rudder in single board canoes. 
 
 The sails made for the Sea Bee a Sunbeam canoe were 
 used on the Lassie with the best results. Mr. Tredwen, the 
 
 master mind in England on canoe sailing, has warmly com- 
 mended the short boom and double head gear of this main- 
 sail. The drawing illustrates it clearly. Mast, boom, yard 
 and the two battens are all of exactly the same length, thus 
 making it an easy rig to stow for the spread obtained, 75-q 
 ft. Very little of the sail is in front of the mast, and the 
 yard peaks up well, both good points for windward sailing. 
 The double purchase at the throat, single at p.-ak, with one
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 167 
 
 halliaid, used as a downhaul as well, allows great strain to 
 be put on the yard in hoisting and brings everything as taut 
 as fiddle stiings, a flat sail resulting. The topping up of the 
 boom shown in the drawing is not quite true in fact, except 
 when the sail is at rest, or passing over the head of the crew 
 as in tacking or jibing. At other times the pull of the sheets 
 brings the boom end much lower, by the give of the sails, 
 halliards and niast; so much so in close-hauled sailing, when 
 the canoe heels somewhat, that it is about parallel with the 
 plane of the water the very best position for it to take. 
 The high-pointed coaming. Sin. camber to deck, narrow 
 cockpit (18in ) and flush deck forward make the Lassie a 
 very dry boat at all times. The dimensions are: 
 
 Length 16ft. 
 
 Beam, extreme 28in. 
 
 Depth at gun wale llj^in. 
 
 Sheer \ Eow "" 6 ^ in ' 
 
 !er "1gteni 4^in. 
 
 Dead rise iu Gin lin. 
 
 Crown of deck 3in. 
 
 Fore side f stem to 
 
 Masttubes, 1ft. 8in., 3ft. ^in., lift. J&lo. 
 
 Fore trunk, fore end 8ft. Sin. 
 
 Fore trunk, afier end 5ft. lOin. 
 
 Coaming;, fore end 4ft. 5in. 
 
 Well at deck, fore end 4ft. lOln. 
 
 Backrests, rr 7.5in and 9.3in. 
 
 After end of well lOf c. 
 
 Bulkhead 10ft. 
 
 Decktiller 10ft. lOin. 
 
 After trunk, fore end lift, 2J$in. 
 
 After trunk, after end 12ft. 6in. 
 
 Deck hatch, fore side lift, llin 
 
 Deck hatch, after side 12ft. 9in. 
 
 Width of cockpit 1ft. 6in. 
 
 Coaming, height at fore end 3in. 
 
 Coaming, height at middle Sin. 
 
 Waterlines 3in. apart; buttock and bowlines, 5in. apart; sections, 
 2ft. apart, from fore side of stem; floor above garboarcU. 8}^in.; stem 
 and stern sided lin., keel sided (width) 3iu; moulded (thickness) lin.; 
 keel batten, J4in.x4in. at amidships; siding, y\\n ; ribs, J4x5-16, 
 spaced Cin., Oio. at ends; deck, J4in.; diameter of mast tubes, 2in; 
 floors, 5-i(iiu.
 
 168 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 REFERENCES , 
 
 a, stem, hackmatack. m, coaming, oak. 
 
 b, stern, hackmatack. n, hatch, mahogany. 
 
 c, keel, oak. o, after hatch. 
 
 d, keel ba 1 ten. oak. />, deck hatch. 
 
 e, ribs, oak. q, center strip of deck, mahog. 
 /, bulkhead, pine, J^in. r, back rests, oak. 
 
 g, headledges, oak. s, heel brace, oak. 
 
 h< sides of trunk, pine J^in. t, steering pedals, oak. 
 
 f, deck beams, pine. it, deck tiller. 
 
 fc, knees, oak or hackmat'k. v, centerboard hineres, brass. 
 I, maststeps, oak. z, floor leJgres, cedar. 
 
 The keel batten, Jin. thick, is a separate piece; but it 
 would be better if -worked in one with the keel. The center- 
 board trunks are both below deck, closed on top and opening 
 only on the bottom. The board?, of sheet brass, are hinged 
 by means of two L-shaped pieces, shown at v, one on each 
 side of the board. These pieces are each fastened to the 
 keel by a screw from the outside. To remove the board the 
 canoe is turned over, the two screws taken out, and the boat 
 turned back, when the board will drop out. The fore board 
 is of -]%in. brass, weighing 151bs. The after board is of in. 
 brass, weighing 51bs., and is quadrant-shaped. Each is 
 filed to a sharp edge. They are hoisted by cords, the for- 
 ward pendant belaying on a cleat on after end of the trunk; 
 the after pendant coming through the deck to a cleat on 
 starboard side deck, abreast the canoeist. The three mast 
 tubes are of uniform size, 2in. inside, so the masts may be 
 interchanged. The rudder is of fin. oak, thinned down at 
 the edges, the yoke being a semi-circular piece with a score 
 in it for the rudder lines, of brass chaiu. The foot gear con- 
 sists of two oak pedals, t t, fitted to the floor boards with 
 brass spring hinges. When two are paddling, the after man 
 uses the braces, s s, in the floor, the back-board for the for- 
 ward man being at r. The hatch, o, is made with an outside 
 jim, fitting over the coaming and close to the deck. There 
 is no fore bulkhead, as usually fitted, and the sliding bulk- 
 head is also omitted, a piece, r, taking its place in support- 
 ing the hatch and carrying the back board. The broken 
 lines in the sectional view show the inner edges of th3 plank-
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 169 
 
 ing, the widths of the same at midships being given in the 
 cross section, page 165. 
 
 PLATE XXL CLASS B CANOE "SUNBEAM." 
 
 This canoe was built early in 1885 by James Everson 
 for Mr. J. F. Newman for a cruising canoe. The model 
 has since become very popular and a number of these boats 
 were present at the meet of 1885. The boat is intended for 
 general use ia wide waters where balla&t ii desiiable, and 
 upward of lOOlbs. of shot in bags is carried. For use in 
 narrower wains a flatter floor would be needed, no ballast 
 being carried. Though intended for a cruiser, the canoe has 
 proved very fast and several of the same model have taken 
 a place among the racers of their class. The interior arrange- 
 ments are of the usual form. At d, e and /are bulkheads, 
 that at /being movable. The well ii covered with hatches, 
 in the usual style, a a and c c are airtanks of phosphor bronze. 
 The dimensions are : 
 
 Length 15ft. 
 
 Beam 3ft. Gin. 
 
 Depth amidships llin. 
 
 Sheer at bow Tin., at stern 6^in. 
 
 Crown of deck 2in. 
 
 Distance from foreside ot stem to 
 
 Mainma&v 1ft. 8in. 
 
 Bulkhead 4ft. 3in. 
 
 Fore end of well 4ft. lOin. 
 
 After end of well 10ft. 9in. 
 
 Sliding bulkhead 9ft. 6in. 
 
 Mizzenmast lift. Sin. 
 
 After bulkhead lift. 6in . 
 
 The dimensions of frame, planking, etc., are the same as 
 in the Lassie. The rig of the Sunbeam is two balance lugs 
 of 70 aud 35tt. for racing, or 50 and 15i't. for cruising. 
 
 In the fall of 1886 the afterboard and trunk were removed, 
 a brass drop rudder was added, and the deadwood at stem 
 and stern cut away as far as possible, the canoe being too 
 slow in stays.
 
 170 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 PLATES XXII. AND XXIIL PECOWSIC. 
 
 Perhaps the greatest pleasure that comes to most own- 
 ers of boats is not so much in actually possessing the 
 fastest craft of all, as in the continual effort to gain that 
 desired end by surpassing the similar efforts of others: a 
 competition that is often more exciting and engrossing 
 than the final test by which in a few hours the results of 
 this labor are proved to be satisfactory or the reverse. It 
 often happens that the development of the highest capa- 
 bilities of a yacht is the work of several seasons of care- 
 ful and painstaking effort, and of many changes and ex- 
 periments; work that calls into play all the inventive 
 faculties and reasoning powers, but that ultimately brings 
 a far higher reward when success is attained than do the 
 briefer and less intellectual struggles of the regatta 
 course. It is from this point of view that the canoe, 
 looked on contemptuously by many as a mere toy, and 
 unworthy of serious notice, commends itself to a large 
 number of intalligent men as a fitting subject for their 
 study. Where the first cost of a yacht may range from 
 ten to thirty thousand dollars and the cost of any changes 
 are in proportion, there are coaiparatively few who are 
 able to follow the sport to its fullest extent; but in the 
 canoe, while the cost of boat, outfit, and a season's racing 
 will not exceed two or three hundred dollars, the interest 
 is no less intense, the competition is as keen, and the re- 
 wards are great in proportion. In no other sailboat, per- 
 haps, is there so much room for ingenuity and invention. 
 The small size of the boat and the amount of work her 
 crew of one must do make it necessary that everything 
 should be arranged to the best advantage, while the 
 strong competition between the various craft, both in 
 home and distant races, is a constant stimulus toward 
 improvement in modal, rig and fittings. Every one fa- 
 miliar with the leading canoes will recognize the fact 
 that each testifies not only to her owner's skill as a sailor 
 but also as a designer, rigger and inventor, and that each
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 171 
 
 boat, while all are alike to the casual observer, possesses a 
 marked individuality of its own. 
 
 From this point of view no less than from the promi- 
 nence which he has lately attained, the canoeing experi- 
 ence of Mr. E. H. Barney of the Springfield C. C., is a 
 most interesting and instructive one. Taking up canoe- 
 ing as a novice, at an age when most men have given up 
 such sports, he has in less than three years won a most 
 enviable place among the leaders of the sport. Mr. Bar- 
 ney began his canoeing early in 1884 with a lateen rigged 
 canoe of good model and fitted in the best style of the 
 leading builders; but a short trial served to show many 
 points that were capable of improvement. The rudder, 
 fitted in the usual manner, was not perfect by any means 
 and soon gave place to an original method of his own 
 that is no less admirable for its effectiveness than for its 
 simplicity and mechanical perfection. With this came a 
 new deck tiller, a rudder yoke that could not foul the 
 mizzen sheet, the "fishtail" rudder and many smaller 
 details. A little experience brought changes in sails, 
 rigging and centerboard, until this novice was soon 
 looked upon as one of the leaders in the field of canoe 
 inventions. His first boat was soon discarded for a bet- 
 ter, and this in turn made way for a third, until the fifth, 
 the well-known Pecowsic, was purchased last year. 
 
 Three of these canoes have borne the name Pecowsic, 
 the one here illustrated being the third; and this, like its 
 predecessor, was built for Mr. Barney by F. Joyner, of 
 Glens Falls, N. Y. The model was made by the builder 
 to Mr. Barney's order, and the method of construction, 
 , the smooth-skin lap, is the same as Mr. Joyner has em- 
 ployed so successfully for some time. The general ar- 
 rangements, the positions of masts, boards, etc., as well 
 as the entire rig, were planned by Mr. Barney. The 
 accompanying lines were very carefully taken from a 
 small drawing, and the full-sized outlines of the moulds, 
 furnished by Mr. Joyner; but some fairing was neces aiy 
 to put the drawing in its present shape. The midship
 
 172 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 section shows far less deadrise than an inspection of the 
 boat itself would indicate, the cutting away of the ends 
 giving an idea of a sharp V section, quite different from 
 what the drawing shows. The bulk of the hull is small, 
 and its internal capacity limited, though it is claimed 
 that there is ample room for cruising outfit, and that the 
 boat is well adapted for general work. There is but one 
 bulkhead just abaft the well, closed with one of Joyner's 
 circular hatches. The fore end of the boat is entirely 
 open, to permit of the stowage of spars and sails. The 
 board is a sheet of thin brass only 80in. long but rising 
 high above the top of the low trunk, shown by the dotted 
 lines in the sheer plan; before the Meet of 1886 the board 
 was shifted lOin. forward of the position shown. The 
 well is short and far aft, while the trunk interferes with 
 the room, and sleeping is difficult if not absolutely im- 
 possible. As no ballast is carried and there is little 
 weight of metal, the danger of sinking if filled is re- 
 moved, especially as one air tank is carried in the after 
 end. The weight of the hull, about lOOlbs. , is nearly all 
 made up of wood. The dimensions are as follows: 
 
 Length, extreme 15ft. 10 4 in. 
 
 l.w.l 15ft. 6 in. 
 
 Beam, extreme 28 6 in. 
 
 l.w.l 27 4 in. 
 
 Depth, amidship 9 4 in. 
 
 Sheer, bow 8 in. 
 
 stern 5 4 in. 
 
 Draft 6 2 in. 
 
 Crown of deck 2 4 in. 
 
 Well, width 17 in. 
 
 length 5ft, 00 4 in. 
 
 Foreside of stem to foremast 7 in. 
 
 mainmast. 6ft. 6 4 in. 
 
 mizzenmast 13ft. 4 in. 
 
 well, fore end 6ft. 10 4 in. 
 
 well, after end 12ft. 
 
 bulkhead 12ft. 
 
 centerb'd trunk, fore end Oft. 7 in. 
 centerb'd trunk, after end 9ft. 1 in. 
 
 The first station is 2ft. from stem, the others are each 18in. 
 apart. The waterlines are 2J4in. apart.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 173 
 
 The most peculiar feature of the boat is her rig, differ- 
 ing as it does from anything else in canoeing. The ad- 
 vantages of the simple leg o' mutton sail were too appar- 
 ent not to be quickly seized upon by canoeists, but a diffi- 
 culty was experienced in obtaining sufficient area; be- 
 sides which the sail is hard to hoist in such small sizes, 
 the mast rings having no weight and being liable to jam 
 very frequently. After being used for some years the 
 sail was abandoned; but after trying the others in turn, 
 Mr. Barney was attracted by the simplicity and efficiency 
 of the leg o ! mutton sail, especially for an unballasted 
 boat of narrow beam, and began to experiment with it, 
 making his own sails. To overcome the first objection, 
 he added a third sail, thus making up the area; while it 
 was well distributed over the length of the boat, and at 
 the same time the center of effort is kept low, an import- 
 ant point in such a craft. The second difficulty, that of 
 handling, was disposed of by lacing each sail to its mast 
 and not attempting to hoist or lower it, the mast and all 
 being removed and a smaller substituted if reefing was 
 required. To do this successfully, five sails are carried, 
 the masts and tubes being all of one size. Three of the 
 sails must be set at once, the other two being stowed 
 below. It would seem that not only is this shifting a 
 matter of difficulty in many cases, but that the sails 
 below would be a serious incumbrance in so small a boat, 
 but those who have used her state to the contrary. 
 
 The sails and spars are as follows : 
 
 Hut 
 
 Boom. 
 
 Battena, No. of. 
 
 Area. 
 
 No. 1, 8ft. 
 
 5ft. lOin. 
 
 1 
 
 22 sq. ft. 
 
 No. 2, 10ft. 
 
 5ft. lOin. 
 
 2 
 
 28 S q. ft. 
 
 No. 3, 10ft. 
 
 5ft. lOin. 
 
 2 
 
 33 sq. ft. 
 
 No. 4, 10ft. 
 
 5ft. lOin. 
 
 2 
 
 38 sq. ft. 
 
 No. 5, lift. Sin. 5ft. lOin. 3 43 sq.ft. 
 
 The sails shown in Plate XXIII. are Nos. 5, 4 and 2, 
 No. 1 being indicated by the dotted lines, while No. 3 is 
 similar to No. 4, but smaller. The greatest possible area 
 is 113ft., the least 22ft. The booms are limited in length
 
 174 PROGRESS OF CANOEING, 
 
 by the distance between main and foremasts, and the 
 first batten in each sail, except No. 8, is to gain more 
 area. The other battens were added to make the sails 
 sit properly, as they bagged in places. Mr. Barney has 
 used very light spar?, the masts being slender sticks with 
 a quick taper, and so having little weight aloft. The 
 booms are fitted with brass jaws (Plate XXIX. a), allow- 
 ing them to top up easily. The sails are fastened to the 
 spars by small wire staples, such as are used for blind 
 slats. No lines of any kind are used except the sheets, 
 and the extreme limit of lightness and simplicity is 
 reached. 
 
 Since Pecowsic's success in 1886, a number of similar 
 craft have appeared in the races; some of them much 
 fairer in model than the lines here shown, though all by 
 the same builder. None, however, have equalled the 
 record of Mr. Barney's boat, which is good evidence that 
 the reason for Pecowsic's speed, which has puzzled so 
 many canoeists, is to be found not so much in her model, 
 as in the skill and care with which she is rigged, fitted 
 up and handled. In 1887 Pecowsic was sailed by Mr. 
 Geo. M. Barney, son of her owner, the latter using anew 
 canoe of similar model, but rockered up much more aft, 
 named Lacowsic. She was loft. lOin. X2~lin., built at 
 Springfield under Mr. Barney's supervision, with a double 
 skin. The sails were identical with Pecowsic's. Both 
 of these canoes made an excellent showing in the sea?on 
 of 1887. 
 
 PLATES XXIII., XXIV., XXXa. "No BALLAST'' CANOE 
 
 VESPER. 
 
 The utility of some ballast and of boats built to carry it 
 is generally admitted when open-water sailing is in ques- 
 tion, but there are some locations where a totally different 
 type of boat has come into use, and has found great favor 
 at the expense of the heavier-ballasted craft. This has 
 been the case particularly at .Albany, where canoeing is
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 175 
 
 confined to the Hudson River, with occasional excursions 
 to neighboring streams of a similar character. The boats 
 first used by the Mohican C. C. were of the Shadow and 
 similar models as built a few years since, but for some 
 years the club has displayed great activity in the hunt for 
 improvement, and besides the sail and fittings generally 
 known by their name, they have devoted much attention 
 to the question of model. Vesper was designed by Mr. 
 R. W. Gibson in 1885-6, and built by Mr. J. H. Rushton, 
 the hull being lapstrake and very lightly built. 
 The table of offsets is as follows: 
 
 HEIGHTS. 
 
 HALF BREADTHS. 
 
 Deck 
 
 Hub'l 
 
 Deck 
 
 lOin. 
 
 6^in. 
 
 4^in. 
 
 %ln. 
 
 lin. 
 
 Keel. 
 
 Diag. 
 a.b.c. 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 18 4 
 
 
 
 O 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 O 1 
 
 O 1 
 
 15 
 
 0< 
 
 6' 
 
 5 3 
 
 4< 41 
 
 2' 1 
 
 0< 
 
 5 s 
 
 12< 
 
 
 
 10 5 
 
 10- 
 
 9 
 
 8- 
 
 C 7 4 6 
 
 1 
 
 9" 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 13 4 
 
 13 3 
 
 123 
 
 II 6 
 
 10- 8 3 
 
 1 
 
 12" 
 
 102 
 
 
 18 
 
 15 
 
 14* 
 
 U> 
 
 13 II 3 
 
 1* 
 
 14 7 
 
 10 
 
 
 IV- 
 
 15"- 11- 
 
 15 
 
 14= 12 
 
 I 1 
 
 lr 
 
 10* 
 
 
 14 8 
 
 U | 14 3 
 
 13 7 
 
 13 
 
 10 7 
 
 I 3 
 
 14' 
 
 II 3 
 
 0' 
 
 12 
 
 12- II 4 
 
 10* 
 
 8 s 
 
 5 7 
 
 1" 
 
 11* 
 
 1 
 
 0= 
 
 7 3 
 
 7' 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 3 3 
 
 I 3 
 
 O 7 
 
 6 
 
 16 
 
 0< 
 
 O 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 0- 
 
 O 2 
 
 ide stem 1 
 station O J 
 
 
 
 
 
 0' 
 
 3< 
 
 7 1 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 
 
 The dimensions are: 
 
 Length over all 15ft. 6tn. 
 
 Beam, extreme aO^in. 
 
 l.w.l 30 in. 
 
 Draft, excluding keelson 4<in. 
 
 inchid ing keelson. 5 in.
 
 176 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 Freeboard, bow ................................ 14 in. 
 
 amidships ......................... 5 4 in. 
 
 stern ................................ H 4 in. 
 
 Sheer, bow ..................................... 8in. 
 
 stern .................................... 6 in. 
 
 Rake, sternpost ............ .................... 2 in. 
 
 Crown of deck ................................. 2 in. 
 
 Diameter of mast tubes 
 
 The rig shown in Plate XXIII., has the ordinary Mohi- 
 can sails, rigged as shown in detail in Plate XVII. 
 
 PLATES XXV. AND XXVI. NOTUS RACING AND CRUIS- 
 ING CANOE. 
 
 After a season's use of Vesper, Mr. Gibson sold her and 
 made a new design embodying some improvements, and 
 in 1887 Notus was built. She is a 16x30 canoe, much 
 like Vesper, her 6in. waterline being the same; but she 
 is cut away more under water forward, giving a slightly 
 hollow entrance, to improve her performance in rough 
 water. The same long, fine bow and full stern already 
 tested by Mr. Gibson have been retained, but the ex- 
 tremely broad and long floor is modified. Notus having 
 about lOin. flat and an elliptical form of midship section, 
 leading into the turn of the bilge, which gives remark- 
 able strength. The stability is not perceptibly dimin- 
 ished by this slight rounding, and it probably assists 
 turning, which Notus does with the greatest case. The 
 canoe was built by Charles Piepenbrink, of Albany, under 
 Mr. Gibson's personal supervision, and is a remarkably 
 fine piece of work. She is a smoothskin, with only three 
 planks to a side, the ribs spaced 6in. and fastened with 
 brass screws from the inside. A few screws were re- 
 quired from ths outside, but they are 12in. apart, leaving 
 the bottom absolutely smooth. The planking and decks 
 are of white pine, and the trimmings of maple and ma- 
 hogany, two narrow beads along each side. The board 
 is of sheet brass, 80xl3x u>in., dropping through a low
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 177 
 
 trunk. There are four bulkheads, with a low hatch in 
 the fore deck. 
 The table of offsets is as follows: 
 
 Stntions. 
 
 HKIGHXS. 
 
 HALF-BREADTHS. 
 
 Rabbet 
 
 Deck. 
 
 Deck. 
 
 Sin. 
 
 6in. 
 
 4in. 
 
 2in. 
 
 Keel. 
 
 o 
 
 
 18 
 15 s 
 
 0' 
 3 7 
 
 O 1 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 1.. 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 s 
 
 
 
 O 2 
 
 2.. 
 
 0' 
 
 14' 
 
 7 7 
 
 5" 
 
 4 3 
 
 3 2 
 
 I 7 
 
 0< 
 
 3.. 
 
 O 2 
 
 12 7 
 
 9 7 
 
 8 2 
 
 7 
 
 5 3 
 
 3" 
 
 O 7 
 
 4.. 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 IP 
 
 10 5 
 
 9 3 
 
 7 
 
 5' 
 
 1' 
 
 5.. 
 
 
 
 10 7 
 
 13 
 
 12 s 
 
 IP 
 
 9 7 
 
 73 
 
 I 4 
 
 6.. 
 
 
 
 10 3 
 
 14 3 
 
 13' 
 
 13> 
 
 11 
 
 9" 
 
 1< 
 
 7.. 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 14 5 
 
 14 2 
 
 13> 
 
 10 7 
 
 1 
 
 8.. 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 14 7 
 
 14 7 
 
 14" 
 
 13 7 
 
 12 
 
 I 4 
 
 Br- 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 14 7 
 
 14 1 
 
 12 
 
 1< 
 
 io.. 
 
 
 
 10> 
 
 14 7 
 
 14 7 
 
 14 6 
 
 13 7 
 
 12' 
 
 1 
 
 11.. 
 
 
 
 10- 
 
 14* 
 
 14 3 
 
 14' 
 
 13' 
 
 II 3 
 
 1* 
 
 12.. 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 13* 
 
 13 2 
 
 12" 
 
 11 
 
 9< 
 
 1 s 
 
 13.. 
 
 0' 
 
 11 
 
 11* 
 
 11' 
 
 10 4 
 
 93 
 
 7 
 
 1' 
 
 11.. 
 
 O 2 
 
 12 5 
 
 8 
 
 7 7 
 
 7 s 
 
 6 3 
 
 4 a 
 
 1 
 
 15.. 
 
 O 8 
 
 10 
 
 * 3 
 
 4 
 
 S 5 
 
 2 
 
 1 s 
 
 0< 
 
 16.. 
 
 
 16 
 
 0' 
 
 
 
 
 
 O 1 
 
 0' 
 
 0' 
 
 The dimensions of Notus are: 
 
 Length over all 16ft. 
 
 Beam SOin. 
 
 Depth lOin. 
 
 Sheer at bow Sin. 
 
 at stern 6in. 
 
 Fore side of stem to bulkheads, 
 
 -'ft. Gin., 5ft., 10ft. Bin., 13ft. Oin. 
 mainmast. . . 9iu.
 
 178 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 Fore side of stem to mizenmast lift;. lOin. 
 
 board, fore end 5ft. 8in. 
 
 after end 8ft. 2in. 
 
 coaming, fore end 4ft. Sin. 
 
 after end lift. 6in. 
 
 The sails were devised by Mr. Gibson, and are made of 
 bleached muslin in one width, the edges being bound 
 with wide tape. The battens fit in pockets in the usual 
 manner. The spars are very light, the masts 2m. square 
 at deck, tapering to fin. diameter at head, the main boom 
 Hin. diameter, battens ^in. thick. The dimensions of 
 sails and spars are : 
 
 Main. Mizen. 
 
 Mast, deck to head 13t. 9in. lift. 4in. 
 
 Sail, on foot 9ft. 6ft. 9in. 
 
 along first batten 8ft. Sin. 6ft. 6in. 
 
 along second batten 8ft. 
 
 luff 13ft. 10ft. 6in. 
 
 leech, total 14ft. 7in. lift. 8in. 
 
 leech, above batten 10ft. Sin. 9ft. 6in. 
 
 spacing of battens, fore end, 1 t. llin. 1ft. lliii. 
 after end, 2ft.lJ^in. 2ft.l^in. 
 area, square feet 69ft. 39ft. 
 
 The first reef leaves 52ft. in main and 26ft. in rnizen, 
 the second reef leaves 35ft. in main. The mizen can be 
 stepped forward and a storm mizen added. The luff of 
 the mainsail is reached 4in. in 13ft. and the luff of the 
 mizen in the same proportion. The usual reef gear is 
 added. The sails are hoisted by halliards and lowered 
 with d ownb.au" s, the attachment to the mast being by a 
 lacing, as shown. This lacing (Plate XXIX.a) is simi- 
 lar to the ordinary hammock or netting stitch, the loop 
 or mesh loosening as soon as the halliard is cast off, but 
 as the latter is hauled taut the meshes lengthen and 
 draw the luff closely to the mast. It has been suggested 
 that a few small beads on the lacing near each knot would 
 make the sail run easier in hoisting and lowering. In 
 the fall of 1887 Notus was sold to Mr. R. W. Bailey, Pitts- 
 burgh C. C.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 179 
 
 PLATES XXVII. , XXVIII. AND XXIX., 15x31, CLASS B, 
 RACING AND CRUISING CANOE. 
 
 This design was made in 1883 for Mr. Win. Whitlock, 
 of New York, by Mr. John Hyslop, and from it the well- 
 known Guenn was built in the winter of '83-4. Unfor- 
 tunately she was too large for the A. C. A. limits, and in 
 order to race she had to be shortened, drawn in and re- 
 decked after being in use for sorhe time, which altered 
 the lines materially. Further than this, she was heavily 
 built, with a large keel and a fan centerboard, thus handi- 
 capping her in racing. In spite of these disadvantages 
 she has shown good speed at times, and there is every 
 reason to believe that the model is a fast one, though not 
 fairly tested in Guenn. 
 
 In the present design the outlines of the hull have been 
 preserved intact, but the raking stsrnpost of Guenn has 
 been replaced by a straight one, in accordance with the 
 latest practice, and the exterior keel and the deep dead- 
 wood aft have also been cut away. The scantling is 
 given for a light but strong cruising boat, and with the 
 model and suitable rig she should prove a winner in the 
 races as well. A canoe built closely to these lines would 
 be a very different craft from the old Guenn. The hull 
 is large and powerful and well fitted to carry a large load 
 of stores and gear, or heavy board and some ballast for 
 racing. Her place should be about New York and on 
 broad waters, rather than on the upper Hudson and the 
 Connecticut; and she will undoubtedly make an excellent 
 all-round boat and an able racer as well, even though 
 she should prove unable to master the Pecowsics in all 
 weathers. The design is the first that Mr. Hyslop had 
 ever made for a canoe, a cla?s of boat with which he was 
 not familiar, and the dimensions and the leading particu- 
 lars \vc-re given by Mr. Whitlock, the designer being re- 
 sponsible only for the lines of the mode 1 . 
 
 It will be noticed that tho drawing measures but 30 gin.
 
 180 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 extreme beam, with planking. If the moulds are care- 
 fully made to this size the boat when planked may be 
 allowed to spread a little, bringing her to 31in., leaving 
 Jin. inside the A. C. A. limit before the deck is put on. 
 This is better than building to the exact width, as the 
 boat will always spread a little. At the same time it 
 would be possible to build a 30 in. boat from the same 
 moulds, using a little care in drawing the sides together 
 before timbering, and fastening them well until the deck 
 frame is in, but it is always best to build a light boat nar- 
 rower rather than wider than she is to be, and then allow 
 her to spread a little. If a smaller boat is desired the 
 design may be cut down in depth, taking Sin. off the 
 sheer all around without impairing its integrity. Such a 
 boat would of course need no ballast, and would be a 
 veiy fair match for Notus, Vesper and others of that 
 class. The line shown for crown of deck is simplydrawn 
 in with a batten to make a fair sweep, with a crown of 
 Sin. at midships. This will not allow one beam mould to 
 be used throughout, as the round of the deck beams var- 
 ies at each station, but it will make a handsome deck. 
 The dimensions are: 
 
 Length, extreme 15ft. 
 
 Beam, extreme , 2ft. Tin. 
 
 Depth, amidships 1ft. 4 in. 
 
 Sheer, bow 6 5 in. 
 
 stern 2 4 in. 
 
 Draft, including keel 6 3 in. 
 
 Displacement, to above draft 5351 bs. 
 
 Per inch immersion ISOibs, 
 
 Area, midship section .965 sq. ft. 
 
 leadline plane 23.88 sq. ft. 
 
 lateral plane , 7.33 sq. ft. 
 
 C. L. R. from foresido of stem 7ft. 9 4 in. 
 
 Wateriines, 2in. apart; stations, 1ft. apart. 
 
 The question of construction is still as much in dispute 
 as ever, and with little probability of a final settlement, 
 as each of the leading methods has its strong points, to- 
 gether with some marked disadvantages. The large and in- 
 creasing demand for canoes of all sizea has stimulated
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 TABLE OF OFFSETS. 
 
 181 
 
 I- 1 P Stations. || 
 
 HEIGHTS. 
 
 HALF BREADTHS. 
 
 Deck 
 
 Rab- 
 bet. 
 
 Deck No. 10. 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Rab- 
 bet. 
 
 1 7 1 
 1 5 
 
 1' 
 
 0' 
 V 
 
 0' 
 3' 
 
 0' 
 2 s 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 l 
 
 I 3 
 
 
 
 O 1 
 
 2.. 
 
 14' 
 
 03 
 
 : 
 
 6" 
 
 5 
 
 4< 
 
 3* 
 
 2 
 
 <H 
 
 3.. 
 
 1 3 
 
 
 
 9 7 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 7 3 
 
 5 
 
 3< 
 
 O 7 
 
 4.. 
 
 12* 
 
 
 
 II 7 
 
 11* 
 
 11 
 
 10' 
 
 8 3 
 
 5 3 
 
 1' 
 
 5.. 
 
 11 
 
 
 1 I 3 
 
 1 1* 
 
 1 O 7 
 
 1 O 3 
 
 10* 
 
 7' 
 
 1 
 
 6.. 
 
 1 1* 
 
 
 12 2 
 
 1 2 3 
 
 1 2i 
 
 1 1 s 
 
 1 s 
 
 8 7 
 
 13 
 
 7.. 
 
 1 0" 
 
 
 
 12 7 
 
 1 3 
 
 1 2 7 
 
 1 2< 
 
 1 1 
 
 10 
 
 1< 
 
 8.. 
 
 1 s 
 
 
 
 1 3' 
 
 1 3* 
 
 1 3 1 
 
 1 2 7 
 
 1 2' 
 
 11> 
 
 1 
 
 9.. 
 
 10< 
 
 
 
 1 3i 
 
 1 3 
 
 1 3" 
 
 1 2 7 
 
 1 2 
 
 10 7 
 
 1 s 
 
 10.. 
 
 1 0< 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 1 2 
 
 1 2* 
 
 1 2 
 
 1 1 
 
 9' 
 
 1' 
 
 11.. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 11" 
 
 1 1" 
 
 1 1* 
 
 1 O 7 
 
 11' 
 
 7" 
 
 1' 
 
 12.. 
 
 1 O 7 
 
 II. 
 
 1 
 
 11< 
 
 11" 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 5' 
 
 O 7 
 
 13.. 
 
 1 1 3 
 
 0' 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 8< 
 
 7 4 
 
 5 5 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 14.. 
 
 1 X" 
 
 I 3 
 
 5 5 
 
 5 
 
 4< 
 
 3 5 
 
 2 s 
 
 . 1 
 
 O 4 
 
 15.. 
 
 1 3 
 
 
 0' 
 
 0' 
 
 0' 
 
 0' 
 
 0' 
 
 
 0' 
 
 the inventive powers of builders, both amateur and profes- 
 sional, with the result that many new methods have of late 
 been tried with more or less success. The first American 
 canoes were all lapstreak, and when, in 1881, the author 
 first introduced the ribband-carvel method of building a 
 smooth-skin boat, then used in England, it met with no 
 favor from American canoeists, there being a strong pre- 
 judice in favor of the lapstreak. Fashions change in 
 canoes as in dress, and for the past two years smooth-.skin 
 boats have l>een the rage, perhaps for no better reasons 
 than those once urged against them. There are to-day
 
 182 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 half a dozen excellent methods of construction from which 
 the canoeist can choose with a fair certainty of having a 
 first-class canoe, and it would be a very difficult matter 
 for an unprejudiced judge to say which, if any, is abso- 
 lutely the best. After some experience in building and 
 using canoes, and some familiarity with the different 
 methods of construction, we feel safe in recommending 
 the lapstreak, if properly built, as the best for cruising. 
 Whether she will prove the fastest alongside of some of 
 the smooth-hulled racers is still an open question, and 
 most canoeists would say "No" to it, but some badly built 
 lapstreaks have done so well in the races at times that 
 there is every reason to think that an absolutely smooth 
 skin counts for little against fine and well laid laps. 
 
 Of lapstreak work there are all kinds, from the clumsily- 
 built pram of the Norwegians, with wooden plugs in place 
 of nails, to the carefully planked canoe with a land some- 
 thing like that shown at 3. The edges of both plank must 
 be very accurately beveled, the outer edge to a thickness 
 of -i^in. or a little more, being rounded off as shown in 
 sandpapering. The common lap is shown in 2, a strong 
 joint, but giving a poor surface. The strength of the lap- 
 streak has repeatedly been proved beyond question, it will 
 stand both wear and hard knocks, while it is very light. 
 With the requisite care and skill the bottom of the boat 
 may be made to compare very favorably with any of the 
 smooth-skin methods, and after a season of rough cruising 
 the lapstreak canoe will probably be in better condition 
 than the others. One method of securing a smooth skin 
 is shown in 1, the plank being cut with a special plane, 
 taking half out of each. The ribband carvel canoes built 
 by the author in 1881 and 2 had a strip inside the seam, 
 as in 4, both planks being nailed to the strip, the ribs were 
 put in afterward, being jogged over the ribband. The 
 Albany canoes are built now on a similar plan, but by a 
 method hardly suitable for amateur work. A strong 
 mould or last is first constructed of the shape of the in- 
 side of the canoe. The dead wood and all the ribbands are
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 183 
 
 fastened to this last, the ribbands are cut away so that 
 the ribs can be let in flush, then the planks are laid and 
 screwed to the ribbands and ribs. The construction of 
 the mould or last over which the canoe is built is almost 
 as troublesome and costly as the canoe itself, eo this 
 method is only practicable when a number of canoes are 
 to be built of the same model. In the method shown in 
 4 the usual plank moulds are used, as in lapstreak work, 
 so the proces-5 is well adapted to the needs of the amateur. 
 
 The details of board, rudder and steering gear here 
 given were not part of the original Guenn, but are all 
 original with the author. They are unpatented, and at 
 the service of all. 
 
 In the construction of a canoe of this size, presumably 
 to carry some ballast, the following scantling will give 
 strength with little weight. The stem and sternpost will 
 be of hackmatack, sided so as to end all lines fairly at the 
 extreme ends. It has been the custom to make these 
 pieces of lin. stuff, which in most cases makes an angle 
 in the waterlines at the rabbet in stem and stern. To 
 avoid this they must be sided as shown by the full size 
 plan which will be laid down before building. The stem 
 will be iin. on its fore edge, the sternpost fin. The stem 
 band will be made from in. half round brass rod, and 
 after it is screwed in place the wood and brass will be 
 filed down together until the lines are carried out straight 
 and fair. The usual method is shown at 5, the proper 
 one at 6, the dotted line in the latter shows where the 
 stem is left a little thick in cutting the rabbet, being filed 
 and planed down, after the planking is completed and 
 the stem band in place. 
 
 The keel is usually made at least lin. thick, but this is 
 in no way necessary. It is better to make it as thin as 
 possible and quite wide. In the present case it is shown 
 Sin. wide and ^in. thick, but it might well be 4 or 5in. wide 
 outside and but iin. thick. The stiffness of the bottom 
 depends but little on the thickness of the keel, the main 
 point being to brace the whole floor system thoroughly
 
 184 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 by the ledges which carry the floorboards. The keel 
 may be regarded simply as a wide bottom plank, and 
 so need be but little thicker than the other planks. It 
 is here shown fin. thick, or ^ inside of boat, forming the 
 rabbet, ^ for thickness of garboard, and i projecting 
 outside of garboards. Really all that is needed is for 
 rabbet inside and for garboard, leaving no projection 
 outside. If at the same time the keel be Sin. wide it 
 makes a wide, flat surface on which the canoe will rest 
 when ashore or on which she may be easily dragged over 
 rocks or logs. It often happens that while a canoe can 
 be dragged easily enough, there is great difficulty in 
 holding her upright on her keel and at the same time 
 dragging her, but with a wide keel she will always keep 
 upright with little aid. In a canoe with mu?h deadrise 
 the keel, if very wide, may be slightly rounded, and in 
 any case it should be protected by fin. strips of flat 
 brass j^in. thick, screwed to the entire length and 
 soldered or brazed to the stem band. With such pro- 
 tection and a similar strip 4ft. long on each bilge, the 
 boat will stand safely a great amount of hard work, and 
 as for racing, the lessened damage to the planking will 
 more than compensate for any slight friction of the 
 brass. The keel should be worked from an inch board, 
 leaving the full thickness at the ends to aid in forming 
 the deadwood, but planing down to *in. or a little more 
 at the middle half of the boat, say for a length of 8ft. 
 The scarfs of stem and sternpost as well as the fasten- 
 ings are shown. It is now the fashion to place the 
 mainmast as far forward as possible, to do which the 
 step must come in a part where the lines are very fine, 
 which necessitates a very thick step. The one shown is 
 of clear white pine, to save weight, and is fastened in 
 when the frame is put together. It must be very 
 securely bo ted and must be trimmed carefully to shape 
 just as the dead woods are, so that the planks will fit ac- 
 curately against its sides. The step- for the mizen may 
 be put in afterward, in the usual way.
 
 . 1 .1L4 TE UR CANOE B UILDING. 185 
 
 A simpler method of building the trunk than that on 
 page 91 is to put the sides of the case together with the 
 headledges between, riveting them up, then to get out a 
 piece of pine as wide as the top of the keel and |in. thick, 
 which piece is screwed fast with long screws to the bot- 
 tom of th- trunk. The lower side of this bedpiece is 
 then accurately fitted to the top of keel and screwed fast 
 by short screws passing through it into the keel. The 
 labor of rabbeting is avoided and the joints, if laid with 
 white lead and Canton flannel, will be perfectly tight. 
 The sides of the case will be of clear white pine, |in. on 
 lower edge and fin. at top. The headledges will be lin. 
 wide and thick enough to allow ample room for the 
 board. The planking will be iin., of white cedar. The 
 upper strake, of the width shown in the drawing, will be 
 full fin. thick, being rabbeted on the lower edge so as to 
 lap over the strake below, showing &in. outside. There 
 will be no gunwale, the deck being screwed to this upptr 
 strake. The ribs may be a little le.-s than f Xiin., spaced 
 6in., with two rivets between. The bulkheads will be 
 fin., of clear white pine. "The deck will be of ^in. ma- 
 hogany. The ledges for the floor will be of spruce or 
 hackmatack, as deep as the distance from floor to gar- 
 board, and fin. thick. They should be very securely 
 fastened with long rivets through each lap and the keel, 
 at least two through the latter. If long nails cannot be 
 had, copper wire can be used, with large burrs on each 
 end. These ledges should be placed alongside the trunk, 
 of course being in two pieces each, and a stout one should 
 be placed against the afterside of the trunk and screwed 
 to the headledge. If well fastened they will make the 
 bottom perfectly rigid, no matter how thin the keel may 
 be, while boats are often found with a keel IJin. thick 
 that will constantly work under the strain of the board 
 or when ashore. The centerboard trunk itself plays a 
 very important part in strengthening the hull, if properly 
 built into the boat and coming up to the deck. 
 
 The shifting bulkhead is placed with a slight slant, to
 
 186 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 accommodate the back better than if vertical. In plan- 
 ning the arrangements, every effort has been made to 
 give plenty of room for cruising, not a mere hole where 
 a man may stow himself for half an hour, but room to 
 carry stores and bedding, to cook, to change one's 
 clothes and to sleep in comfort. At the same time the 
 sailing qualities could not be neglected, and the board 
 has been placed as far aft as possible, with a provision 
 for shifting it still further aft in sailing, as will be 
 described later. The distance between bulkheads is 7ft. 
 5in.,nndas the boat is both wide and deep, this space 
 should give plenty of room for all stores; but the afier 
 compartment might be fitted with a hatch if more room 
 were desired. As now arranged, the mess chest could 
 fit on one side of the trunk, and the clothes bag on the 
 other; while the tent and the bedding, the latter tightly 
 strapped in a waterproof bag, would be in the locker 
 under the movable hatch. In sleeping, there would be a 
 clear length of 5ft. 5|in. from bulkhead to after end of 
 trunk, and the feet could extend for a few inches into 
 the space beside the trunk lately occupied by the clothes 
 bag, now doing duty as a pillow. The tent, of course, 
 would be set, the bedding spread, and the hatch and 
 bulkhead removed for the night. The space under the 
 side decks affords plenty of room for oilers, spare gear, 
 apron, etc. The well is large, as in summer cruising a 
 man requires plenty of room, and if the feet and legs are 
 kept continually below deck they will be very warm. 
 Sleeping, cooking, and the positions one naturally takes 
 to obtain a rest when afloat all day, demand more room 
 than some racing men seem to think necessary. To close 
 the large well in stormy weather, the best plan is an 
 apron of heavy drill, fitting over the pointed coaming 
 and tightly laced along the sides to screw heads outside 
 the coamings. The apron may extend as far aft as the 
 cleats shown. The mast tubes are 2|in. at deck, taper- 
 ing. Both are of the same depth, so that the masts may 
 be interchangable. It will be noticed that the coaming
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 187 
 
 is cut down very low at the after end. It was formerly 
 the custom to make the coaming as high there as any- 
 where, but this is not necessary, as little water will come 
 aboard in the center of the deck, and by cutting the 
 co lining down low the need of raising the deck tiller is 
 avoided. 
 
 The arrangement of the centerboard is peculiar and 
 entirely novel. The usual arrangement has a movable 
 pulley for the lifting pendant, which pulley fits in a brass 
 plate on deck (see page 94). This plate is apt to work 
 loose under the strain of a heavy board, to avoid which 
 the author devised the plan of fastening both lifting rod 
 and pulley in their correct relative positions on a strip of 
 hard wood. By this means the two are always in place, 
 and the board may be lifted out or dropped in with a cer- 
 tainty that pulley and lifting rod are in their correct posi- 
 tions. The board is hung by two strips of sheet brass, the 
 upper ends of both coming through the strip mentioned, 
 being secured by a rivet. In use the board is hauled up, 
 the pendant belayed on a cleat on the strip, and all may 
 be lifted out together. With a board of SOlbs. it is some- 
 times all that a man can do to ship the lifting rod and 
 pulley properly, but with this arrangement no special ad- 
 justment is necessary, the board and strip are dropped in 
 place and all is ready. In trying this arrangement the 
 idea of moving the board forward and aft suggested 
 itself, and the following details were devised to accom- 
 plish it. The strip was provided with four small wheels, 
 a a a a, sections cut from a jin. brass rod, with an ^in. 
 hole drilled in the center. These wheels work in slots 
 cut in the slip A. The lifting pendant leads through the 
 cheek block C, or through a double block if more power 
 is needed, or the line may lead directly aft, without a 
 purchase. A line G, is attached to the fore end of A, 
 leading through a cheek block D, on the deck, thence aft 
 to a cleat, as shown. A third line E, is fast to the after 
 end of A, and leads through a hole in the coaming, as 
 Bhown. In operation, the board is tirst dropped, then by
 
 188 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 casting off the line G the strip A, with board suspended 
 from it, will run aft until the lifting pendant reaches the 
 after end of case, when the board will bs in the position 
 shown by the dotted line. This will carry the center of 
 the board aft about a foot at least, and will make a ma- 
 terial difference in the balance of the hull and sails. The 
 line E is used to draw the board aft if necessary, or a 
 rubber spring may be attached to it, so as to act auto- 
 matically. In hoisting, the board must first be drawn 
 forward by the line G, after which it may be raised by F. 
 There is this objection the board canrot be raised if 
 aground until it is hauled forward, but as the device is 
 for sailing, usually in deep water, this is of little conse- 
 quence. If the device is to be placed in a new boat, the 
 case may extend as shown about a foot further aft, to the 
 height of the boards, in which event the board may be 
 raised some distance while in the after position, or may 
 be easily cleared in case of grounding. The main use of 
 the shifting board is to improve the balance of sail, 
 allowing full or reefed sail to be carried at will, and giv- 
 ing just as much weather helm as may be r.t any tune 
 desirable. By its use the centerboard trunk can be placed 
 well forward, and yet in racing the board itself may be 
 readily adjusted to one of several position-, and may be 
 thrown at least a foot further aft. Two points are neces- 
 sary ; the case must be wide enough to allow the board to 
 move freely, and the after pendant must be made fast so 
 far aft that the board will not rise at the fore end through 
 the after end being the heavier. 
 
 The cheek blocks may be cut out of mahogany, with 
 brass sheaves, or they may be cut or sawn out of -fain. 
 sheet brass, filed up neatly and bent in a vise to the 
 proper shape to fit the sheave. Sheaves of this kind are 
 readily made by sawing with a hack saw pieces from 
 the ends of brass rods of various sizes, holes are drilled 
 in the centers, the pieces are held in a vise and the score 
 or groove cut with a small round file. With a, very few 
 tools for working brass both blocks and sheaves with
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 189 
 
 many other small fittings may be easily made by the 
 amateur. The hoisting pulley B is shown on a large scale 
 to illustrate the construction. The main part of the shell 
 is made from a piece of sheet brass doubled over in the 
 form shown, the upper part being a half circle. To each 
 
 
 STEPHENS' RUDDER FASTENING.
 
 190 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 side a strip of brass bent at right angles is riveted, a 
 mortise is cut in the strip A, the brass case is set in until 
 the side pieces rest on the strip, and then fastened by 
 ecrews through these sides. The pulley is put in place 
 and the pin on which it turns is run through holes 
 drilled in the sides of the case, the ends then being 
 riveted up. 
 
 The rudder shown is of mahogany, a cruising rudder. 
 The lower side, below the keel, is sharpened to a fine 
 edge. The rudder hanging is shown in the small draw- 
 ing, page 189. The part attached to the boat or canoe 
 consists of an upper and lower brace of the usual 
 form, A and C, with a rod E, ^in., running through 
 them and screwed into C. On the rudder is a common 
 brace, B, at the top. At the bottom is a split brace, D, 
 made of two castings, a and &, both exactly alike, but 
 fastened on opposite sides of the rudder. The upper sides 
 of the pair are shown at 1, the fore ends at 2, and the 
 lower sides at 8. It will be seen that by laying the 
 rudder horizontally with the port side, D uppermost, the 
 opening between a and 6, Fig. 2, will admit the rod E. 
 Now if the rudder be raised to a vertical position, the 
 two hooks embrace the rod E, the upper brace, B, is 
 dropped over the top of E, and the rudder is fast, only 
 to be released by raising B off the rod and dropping the 
 rudder horizontally. In practice the split brace can be 
 put on or off the rod by inclining the rudder to an angle 
 of 45 degrees, without laying it horizontal. With this 
 gear there are no detached parts, the work may all be 
 done at the upper part of the rod, just below A, and it is 
 not necessary to grope under water to ship the lower 
 pintle. The rudder can only be detached by raising B 
 from the top of the rod. and the rudder lines, when 
 attached, prevent it rising sj far of itself. 
 
 The deck tiller and gear shown have been tried in prac- 
 tice and found to work perfectly, the whole arrange aient 
 being very strong, while there is not the least chance for 
 lines to foul the rudder yoke or deck yoke. The former
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 191 
 
 is in the shape of a wooden wheel, 6in. diameter and fin. 
 thick, turned in a lathe, with a groove fin. deep around 
 it, large enough to take ths rudder lines of Win. copper 
 wire rope. This wheel is fitted on its lower side with the 
 usu;il dovetiil plates, one being fastened to the deck and 
 one to the wheel. Tiie deck immediately beneath the 
 wheel should be leveled, so that the wheel will bear on 
 its entire lo\ver surface. On the upper side of the wheef 
 are two hasps, bent out of sheet brass and screwed fast to 
 the wheel, in which the tiller ships. The tiller is reduced 
 at the after end, where it fits into the after hasp, but on 
 top of it is a spring, K, of flat spring brass, turned up at 
 a right angle at the after end, as shown. This hook on 
 the spring serves to hold the tiller in place, &nd further 
 acts to raise the fore end of the tiller. By this means 
 some spring is allowed in the latter, and in case of any 
 weight being suddenly thrown on it, it will give until the 
 hand touches the top of the hatch and will not break off. 
 As the wheel lias a bearing 6in. long, no matter what 
 position it is in, there is no danger of twisting cff the 
 plate. The weak point of most deck tillers is the long 
 pin and high block on which they are mounted to enable 
 the yoke and tiller to clear the hatch, and with such a rig 
 breakdowns are frequent. The present rig is both strong 
 and compact, the long grotesquely curved arms that foul 
 sheets and halliards are absent, and, if fitted closely to 
 the deck, no lines can foul. 
 
 On the rudder head is a similar wheel, of the same size, 
 but with the fore side cut away as shown, so as to allow 
 it to be placed below the level of the deck. The angle 
 allows ample play for the rudder. In order to insure 
 perfect action the center of the wheel must coincide ex- 
 actly with the center of the pin on which the rudder is 
 hung, then the lines will be of the same length, no matter 
 how far over the helm may be thrown. The lines for the 
 foot gear, also wire rope, run round the rudder wheel, 
 being fastened at one point only, so that they cannot slip 
 on the wheel. The two ends are led forward and down
 
 19.3 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 through the deck, as shown. A brass ring is securely 
 lashed to each line near where it leaves the wheel, and a 
 strong hook on the end of each of the short lines from the 
 deck wheel will hook into the ring. The short lines are 
 each provided with turnbuckles, as shown, by which they 
 may be tightened. When the deck tiller is not needed 
 the turnbuckles are slacked up, the short lines unhooked, 
 and the deck wheel may be removed, leaving only the 
 lower plate set in the deck. The rudder wheel should be 
 set as low as possible and yet allow the lines to clear the 
 deck; there is no seed to have it, as is often seen, far up 
 in the air. If the two wheels are anywhere near the 
 same height there will be no possible chance for the lines 
 to run out of the grooves; in fact, if thrown out in any 
 way they at once spring back. Of course there is nothing 
 to catch the mizen sheet, as the lines will keep it from 
 getting undsr the wheel. With a Gin. wheel there is 
 power enough to turn a much larger rudder than is 
 needed on a canoe; in fact, the wheel might be even 
 smaller if desirable for any reason. One great advan- 
 tage of a wheel over the ordinary arms is that the pull is 
 always the same, no matter how far over the rudder may 
 be. 
 
 The advantages of the old-fashioned leg-o'-mutton sail 
 in the important points of light weight aloft and simplicity 
 of rig, \vere so apparent that it is not surprising to find 
 that while models and rigs were at first imported from 
 England, the lug and gunter sails were soon discarded in 
 America for the less complicated leg-o'-mutton, which, 
 about ten years since, was the sail in general use here by 
 canoeists. Both the lug and gunter required some care 
 in rigging and more blocks and gear, but the plain tri- 
 angular sail of the sharpie was easily made, after a 
 fashion, and rigged to match, by any tyro. Up to 1878 
 this sail was used on almost all canoes in the United 
 States, but as racing became more popular the lug was 
 introduced and soon drove it out. The faults of the leg- 
 o'-mutton sail were that the mast must be very long in
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 103 
 
 order to obtain the area, and the sail was difficult to hoist 
 and lower owing to the number of mast rings required, 
 making it a slow and uncertain matter to reef or shake 
 out. A mast of 14 to 15ft. , such as was necessary for a 
 G5ft. sail, was a very troublesome stick in a narrow boat, 
 even it 1 of bamboo. Naturally the idea of cutting this 
 stick in half suggested itself, leading to the sliding gun- 
 ter rig, but a mechanical difficulty was met that caused 
 the gunter sail to be abandoned by all. It was found to 
 be impossible to rig a gear of any sort that would slide 
 on the lower mast and carry the topmast without either 
 binding and jamming fast, or on the other hand, being so 
 loose when hoisted as to allow the topmast to wobble to 
 an unbearable degree. Brass slides of various forms were 
 tried, as well as other devices, but besides the weight 
 aloft, they never could be relied on to hoist and lower 
 quickly, while they permitted a great amount of play in 
 the topmast. 
 
 The sail here shown was designed last year by Mr. C. 
 J. Stevens, New York C. C., for the canoe Tramp, and is 
 ;il-<> fitted to the canoe shown on Plate XXX. The sail 
 plan on Plate XXIX. shows the rig adapted to the loft. X 
 30in. canoe on Plate XXVII. Curiously enough this new 
 sail, a combination of the leg-o'-muttton and sliding gun- 
 ter. was evolved directty from the balance lug. The first 
 step was to sling the ordinary round-headed balance lug 
 sail abaft the mast, of course retaining the peak, the yard 
 being very much rounded, as shown in the sail plan of 
 the Forest and Stream cruiser. This made a very good 
 sail, but it was evident that the peak, falling more or less 
 to leeward and out of the plane of the masts, was a 
 decided disadvantage in so narrow a boat on the score of 
 stability, whatever advantage it might possess to wind- 
 ward over a jib-headed sail. The next t>tep then was to 
 cut away entirely the angle between luif and head, the 
 throat of the sail, substituting a moderate curve to the 
 upper part. 
 
 The most serious difficulty was the hoisting and hold-
 
 194 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 ing in place of the yard, now transformed into a sort of 
 topmast; but after a number of trials a method was de- 
 vised that is at once effective and ingenious. The object 
 sought was to bind both mast and yard so firmly together 
 that they became for the time a single stick, avoiding the 
 play of the gunter, as well as the weak construction due 
 to the short gunter brass with its direct strain on the 
 m sthead. The details of the present plan are shown in 
 the smaller drawing. On the mast two cheek blocks are 
 securely lashed, leading fore and aft. On the yard are 
 two similar blocks, also leading fore and aft. The halliard 
 is double; a knot is first tied in the center, then the two 
 ends are rove, one through each of the blocks on yard 
 and then through corresponding block on mast, the bight 
 of the line with the knot, c, being around the fore side of 
 mast. It is evident that a pull on the two parts of the 
 halliard will jam the spar firmly against the mast, prac- 
 tically making one spar of the two, as each braces the 
 other. The size of each is so proportioned that the 
 strength of the Sin. mast is retained all the way to the 
 masthead, the yard growing larger as the mast grows 
 smaller. The halliard was first used without the knot, c, 
 but it was found that in hoisting the bight was held close 
 to the mast, thus j.imniing at times. The knot was then 
 tied in so that the halliard could not unreeve through 
 either block; and now in hoisting the strain is only on one 
 halliard until the yard is fairly in place, then both halliards 
 are set taut and belayed. The canoeist takes both halliards 
 in hand, leaving one with about 6in. slack, then hoists 
 away, the yard rising easily, as the bight is entirely loose 
 around the mast. When well up, a pull on both halliards, 
 a a, sets all snug. The result is the same when set at the 
 masthead for full sail, or lower for a reef. The boom and 
 battens are fitted with jaws of the size and shape shown 
 in the smaller cut, which represents the full size of the 
 pattern, the casting being a little smaller when finished. 
 The battens are round in section, and each is ferruled 
 with brass, the jaw then being driven in. To hold the
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 195 
 
 jaw to the mast a hollow brass curtain ring is used, 
 lashed to the batten just on top of the jaw. This allows 
 the boom or batten to be folded close up against the- mast 
 in stowing. The fourth batten may not be needed if the 
 sail is properly cut; in any case it has no jaw. but is 
 merely slipped into a pocket. The halliards, A A, lead 
 from the masthead to blocks at deck on each eide of mast, 
 thence to a cleat near the well. They may be led through 
 a double block near the stem, thus acting as a forestay, 
 provided the mast ia not too far forward; but the present 
 practice is to place the mast from 9 to 12in. from &tem, 
 in some cases still closer. A tack line is used to hold the 
 boom down, being led through a block at deck abaft the 
 mast. The toppinglift is made fast to an eye at mast- 
 head, leading down each side of the fail, and spliced 
 together jiibt below the sheet block. A small jaw of 
 brass is lashed to the boom, and the bight of the topping- 
 lift is slipped into it, holding the boom at the proper 
 height. By casting the lift off from this jaw and allow- 
 ing it to swing forward the boom will drop on deck, and 
 by leaving it in the jaw and hauling in, belaying on the 
 email cleat or boom, the latter may be topped up as far as 
 desirable. No reefing gear is shown, but any of the well- 
 known varieties may be fitted as in a lug or Mohican sail, 
 two reefs being sufficient. 
 
 The mizen may be rigged precisely as the mainsail, 
 but with the small area now carried aft a sail of the 
 same shape, but not fitted to lower, will answer per- 
 fectly. The luff is laced to the mast, one batten is fitted 
 as shown, and a brail, in two parts, one on each side of 
 the sail, and leading through small bullseyes lashed to 
 the mast, the two parts spliced into one and belaying 
 on the cleat at foot, serves to stow the sail snugly for 
 running free or paddling. Though rather long, the mast 
 and sail weigh but little, and may be readily unstepped 
 and stowed on deck, a smaller rnizen being substituted. 
 The sprit mizen used on the Pearl will answer well for 
 this latter, the spars being quite short. It is fitted as
 
 190 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 shown in the dotted lines, with one batten, there being 
 rings on leech and head. A brail is rove through these 
 rings in two parts, one and fast to boom and up the 
 leech, thence through a bullseye on mast; the other end 
 fast to top of batten, through rings on head, and through 
 same bullseye. The sail may be reefed by hauling the 
 latter part until the batten lies close to mast, or by a 
 pull on both parts the sail is brailed up snugly against 
 the mast. The spars may be short enough to allow the 
 rig to be stowed inside the well. 
 
 The spinaker forms a most important feature of this 
 rig, as the mizen is stowed when down wind and the 
 eplnaker set, the canoe running much steadier than 
 under aftersail. The shape is shown in the drawing by 
 the broken lines, the foot being greatly reached in the 
 curve shown. The head and outer angle of sail are 
 fitted with small swivels, in case of a turn in hoisting; 
 the halliard leads through a block at masthead, one end 
 leading through a block at deck, the other hooking into 
 the sling of sheet block when not in use. If on the 
 wrong side, it may be swung around in front of the 
 mast before snapping to head of sail. The sheet or 
 after guy is fast to the end, and a snap hook on the latter 
 hooks into an eye on the end of boom. The tack leads 
 through a screweye on deck just forward of the mast, 
 the ends leading aft on each sid? of mast, so that either 
 may be bent to the sail. The boom, of bamboo, is fitted 
 with an eye at the outer end and a small jaw on the 
 inner, the latter shipping in a brass stud in the deck just 
 abaft the mast. The sail is snapped on to the halliard 
 and hoisted, the tack being first hooked on; the outer 
 angle is then hooked to the boom, the latter shipped 
 against the stud on deck and swung forward, the sheet 
 then being made fast and the tack trimmed. The sail 
 should be of strong light linen that will dry quickly. 
 
 To complete the ordinary outfit for cruising and racing 
 an intermediate mainsail of about two-thirds the size of 
 largest sail is used, and sometimes a small spinaker.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 197 
 
 The rig for a large canoe will include a racing mainsail 
 of 90ft., a cruising mainsail of about 50ft., a racing mizcn 
 of 25ft., a cruising mizen of 15ft. and two spinakers of 
 60 and 45ft. The dimensions of spirs and sails for such 
 a rig aie given in the following table, the spars being 
 much lighter than any now in use on canoes, but they 
 are all a little larger than those carried on the Tramp, a 
 heavy Pearl, 14x33, for the* past year; and if of good 
 spruce and properly rigged, will be amply strong. The 
 old Guenn carried a balance lug mainsail of 105ft and a 
 mizen of o5ft., mast 15ft. above deck; but the present 
 canoe, if built lightly and sailed with a moderate amount 
 of ballast, should prove still faster under the rig shown. 
 The weight aloft will be about one-half that of the old 
 rig. consequently the boat can be held up with much less 
 ballast and the crew will have far more control of her. 
 The movement now is in the direction of smaller sails, 
 and experience goes to show that a boat will be faster 
 under a properly proportioned rig of moderate dimensions 
 than under a heavy outfit of spars and canvas, that must 
 be upheld by heavy ballast and at times with great 
 difficulty: 
 
 DIMENSIONS OF SPARS AND SAILS-CANOE GUENN. 
 
 Main. Mizcn. 
 
 Racing. Cruising. Raning. Cruising. 
 
 Mast, from stem 11 11' 12 00 12 00 
 
 deck to truck 1100 809 906 502 
 
 Boom 10 00 804 507 SCO 
 
 Yard 1006 804 
 
 fattens 901,710,00,606 608,502,502 503 500 
 
 Spinaker boom 806 608 
 
 11)00 711 503 408 
 
 luff 610 505 900 410 
 
 lirail 1001 SCO .... 200 
 
 li-o:-h 1706 1310 904 404 
 
 Tack to peak 1611 1305 
 
 (Mew totluvat 1011 808 
 
 Area, tqaaro feet COCO 5500 2500 1500 
 
 Spinaker area, sq. ft 6100 4800 
 
 '.i i 1<> 00 8 00 
 
 .luff 1003 801 
 
 leech 1304 1006 
 
 round of foot... 1 06 103 
 
 Hat tens apart 2 03, 2 04< 2 08
 
 198 
 
 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 The 90ft. sail lias three battens, 55ft. sail has two. Battens are 
 spaced ljin. further apart on leech than on luff. 
 
 Racing mast 2in. at deck and up to second batten, thence taper- 
 ing to lin. at head. Mizenmast l-%in. at deck, tapering to %in. at 
 head. 
 
 Main boom IJ^in. diameter for middle third of length, thence 
 tapering to %in. at ends. 
 
 Yard lin. diameter for about middle third, thence tapering to 
 J^in. at ends. Battens round, J^in. at fore and %iu. at after ends, 
 upper battens %in. throughout. Mizenboom %in. at middle, 
 tapering to J^in. forward and %in. aft., batten %in. Spinaker 
 boom, bamboo, about %in. at fore and %in. at after end 1 . The 
 spars for cruising rig will be a little smaller throughout. The 
 mizenmast will fit forward tube, but will be reduced in size from 
 deck up. 
 
 A method of leading the reeflines, devised by Mr. O. F. 
 Coe, of Jersey City, is shown in the following eketch. 
 
 Vertical pockets are sewn to the sail through which the 
 lines are run, thus lessening the danger of fouling. Mr. 
 W. Baden-Powell has used the same idea for some time, 
 but with several small brass rings sewn in the pockets to 
 keep them extended and so allow the lines to run freely. 
 The drop rudder is now in general use for cruising as 
 well as racing and is made after several patterns by the 
 different builders. One of the best is that shown in
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 199 
 
 Plate XXIX., made by Chas. Piepenbrink, of Albany, 
 New York. The stock is a brass tube, A, |in. external 
 diameter, into which two side pieces of -, L ,jin. sheet 
 brass, C, C, are inserted and brazed, sufficient space 
 being left for the blade B to work freely between them. 
 The blade, of -, L h in. hard brass, turns on the flat-headed 
 bolt, F. and is held more firmly by the lugs E E, riveted 
 to each side and projecting over the side plates. The 
 rudder yoke, D, is of cast bras?, very neatly proportioned 
 in its design, with eyes at each end for the rudder lines. 
 It is held 011 the stock, A, by a set screw, I, passing 
 through A. and in the upp?r end of the latter is an eye 
 through which the lifting line, K, is rove. The rudder is 
 hung by two braces, the lower one, H, forming a scag- 
 band and at the same time having a hole for the |in. pin 
 in the lower end of A. The upper brace, G, is bored out 
 to iin. diameter inside, with a slot at the back to allow 
 the side pieces to entei. On the side of A is a small stud, 
 I, which also pusses through the slot, and when the rud- 
 der is in position prevents it from rising. Hard brass 
 only should be used for the side plates and blade, as great 
 stiffness is necessary. 
 
 On plate XXIX.a are shown the Litest fittings used on 
 American canoes. The upper cleat, invented by Mr. Paul 
 Butler, is very handy for main sheet, a turn being taken 
 under the hooked end. A somewhat smaller cleat, de- 
 vised by Mr. E. H. Barney, 13 also shown. The cleat 
 board introduced from the English canoes, is now gener- 
 ally used. It is a piece of mahogany 3 or 4in. wide and 
 long enough to extend across the cockpit, to which it is 
 secured by the hook screws shown, which allow it to be 
 shifted to any point. In this board are belaying pins, as 
 shown, or cleats are screwed to it, and sometimes a trav- 
 eler of |in. wire is added. In removing the sail all lines 
 are left on their respective cleats, the board being detached, 
 and made up with tlu sail. The tiller shown was fitted 
 to the Blanche by Mr. Butler, the ends extending across 
 the boat so that one is within easy reach when the crew
 
 200 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 is leaning out to windward. The ordinary tiller may also 
 be added, as shown by the dotted lines. Two varieties of 
 lifting handles are also shown, the one devised by Mr. 
 Barney for his 1887 canoe, Lacowsic, being of brass, set 
 into the stem and stern of the canoe, which are cut away 
 to receive them. The other handle, a piece of stout wire 
 with a short length of rubber tube for the hand to grasp, 
 is used on most of the Mohican canoes, being permanently 
 attache! one to eacxi end. The mast and jaw shown arc 
 those of Pecowsic and Lacowsic, tha tube is but Sin. deep 
 and the lower end of mast is fitted with a long taper fer- 
 rule to fit it very neatly. The jaw is of brass, with a 
 socket for the boom end, and is hung by a pin through 
 the ma&t, allowing the boom to be folded close against 
 the latter. The mast turns in the socket, the boom being 
 immovably fixed to it. The mast lacing shown is de- 
 scribed with the sail plan of Notus, Plate XXVI. 
 
 PLATE XXX. 16x29 RACING CANOE. DESIGNED BY W. 
 
 P. STEPHENS. 
 
 This canoe was designed early in 1888 by the author as 
 a racing craft, to be sailed without ballast; the displace- 
 ment being limited to not over 2751bs. The aim has been 
 to preserve a good area of load water plane and breadth, 
 without too much displacement on the one hand or the 
 sharp V sections of some "no ballast" canoes on the other, 
 and to make a canoe that should be at the same time fast 
 and yet fairly comfortable to sail. The design could 
 easily be adapted to a larger canoe, say 10x30, to carry 
 moderate ballast, by widening after planking, and build- 
 ing up the sheer line an inch or a little over, making at 
 the same time the displacement greater by lOOlbs. and 
 the draft nearly an inch more. The canoe has been com- 
 pleted and will be raced during the season of 1888. She 
 will carry the sails shown in Plate XXIX., with a very 
 light plate board and brass drop rudder. As she is de- 
 signed solely for sailing the well will not be as shown,
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 201 
 
 but simply a circle of 18in. diameter, closed by a water- 
 tight c:invas bag made fast around the coaming, so that 
 in the event of a complete capsize no water can get below. 
 The deadwood at the ends has been cut away far more 
 than is coin -non, but the displacement is somewhat re- 
 duced thereby, rnoro being allowed in the middle of the 
 boat; the immersed surface is much reduced; and easy 
 turning power insured, the full length on waterline being 
 at the same time retained. 
 
 TABLV OF OFFSETS, 16X21) RACING CAXOE. 
 
 
 HEI< 
 
 HALF BREADTHS. 
 
 Deck Uab'l Keel. 
 
 Deck 
 
 lOin. 
 
 8in. 
 
 Gin. 
 
 4in. 
 
 2in. 
 
 Rabbet 
 
 o 
 
 1 3 4 
 
 0' 
 
 
 0' 
 
 li' 
 
 
 
 O 4 
 
 1.. 
 
 1 2 3 2 7 2 3 
 
 
 
 2* 
 
 2' 1= 
 
 
 
 
 2.. 
 
 1 1< 1< 1- 
 
 5* 
 
 4' 2 7 
 
 1' 
 
 
 
 
 1 O 5 s s 
 
 8< 
 
 71 7-: 
 
 6 a 4 
 
 li 
 
 4.. 
 
 ir o- 
 
 10 s 
 
 10 9= 
 
 8= 6" 
 
 4 a 
 
 j 4 
 
 
 11= 
 
 II 7 
 
 11 s 
 
 11' 
 
 10' 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 14 
 
 0.. 
 
 10 7 
 
 1 1' 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 
 
 11" 
 
 102 
 
 7' 
 
 14 
 
 7.. 
 
 
 
 1 2 
 
 1 I 7 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 O 7 
 
 IP 
 
 8 5 
 
 V 
 
 8.. 
 
 
 
 1 2 3 
 
 1 2' 
 
 I 2- 
 
 1 1 1 O- 5 
 
 9 
 
 I 4 
 
 9.. 
 
 10> 
 
 1 2' 
 
 1 2< 
 
 1 2 3 
 
 1 2' 1 O 7 
 
 <, 
 
 14 
 
 10.. 
 
 0' 
 
 1 2 
 
 1 2 
 
 
 1 I 7 
 
 1 0" 
 
 9^ 
 
 I 4 
 
 11.. 
 
 O 3 O 1 
 
 1 I 7 
 
 i r 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 1' 11 ' 
 
 7 
 
 I 2 
 
 12.. 
 
 O 4 
 
 
 l 
 
 1 0= 
 
 II 3 
 
 
 1' 
 
 13.. 
 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 9 7 
 
 8 6 6 s 
 
 2' 
 
 0' 
 
 14.. 
 
 11 : 2 I 4 
 
 9 4 C 
 
 & 
 
 O 5 
 
 
 
 I.").. 1 
 
 I' 
 
 
 O 4 
 
 it;, i i 3 
 
 0' 0' 0' 
 
 0' 1 0' 
 
 
 O 4
 
 202 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 The dimensions are: 
 
 Length 16ft. 
 
 Beam, extreme 29in. 
 
 l.w.1 25%in. 
 
 Draft 4^in. 
 
 Freeboard Gin. 
 
 Sheer, bow f%in. 
 
 stern Sin. 
 
 Displacement 256.751bs. 
 
 Area midship section 48 sq. ft. 
 
 Displacement per in. immersion 1091bs. 
 
 at 5in. draft, about 3701bs. 
 
 Area lateral plane 4.37 sq. ft. 
 
 centerboard 2.17 sq. ft. 
 
 Total 6.54 sq. ft. 
 
 L.W. plane 19. CO sq. ft. 
 
 C. B. from stem 8ft. 
 
 C. L. R. from stem 7ft. lOMin. 
 
 inc. board. . . . . 7ft. 5in. 
 
 PLATES XXXI. AND XXXII. 18x36 CANOE "!ONE." 
 
 The canoe lone was designed in 1887 by Mr. E. T. Bird- 
 sail, of New York, and built by Bradley, of "Watertown, 
 N. Y. 
 
 She is 18ft. long by 3ft. wide and is smooth built, of 
 Jin. plank; keel of white oak l^in. thick; stem and stern- 
 post of hackmatack; planking of cedar; deck, mahogany; 
 coaming, walnut, flared; Radix board of largest size, 
 which is rather small for a boat of this length. She 
 carries about 125ft. of sail and lOOlbs. of lead cast to fit 
 close to the garboards, no shifting ballast. With this 
 lead in and sail set, one can sit outside of the coaming on 
 the deck to leeward and not get wet, the sails and spars 
 weighing SOlbs., and the usual crew over 1501bs. In a 
 beam wind in smooth water with full sail and two per- 
 sons weighing together 3401 bs. hanging out to windward 
 she has beaten catboats of equal waterline length. When 
 driven in heavy weather with the above load to wind- 
 ward and reefed she is quite wet, as she goes through the
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 203 
 
 waves when they are short and choppy, and the crests 
 thus cut up come aboard. 
 
 In common with all narrow and shoal boats she rolls 
 when going to leeward in a seaway. The under-water 
 body conforms to the wave form curve of areas, other 
 recognized principles of design as set forth by Dixon 
 Kemp being adapted to this special case as far as possible. 
 
 TABLE OF OFFSETS CANOE IONE. 
 
 r P Stations. |[ 
 
 DEPTHS. 
 
 HALF BREADTHS. 
 
 Deck 
 
 Rab- 
 bet. 
 
 Keel 
 
 Deck 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 Keel. 
 
 2 
 1 10 
 
 
 
 0' 
 3 
 
 fore 
 O 1 
 
 side 
 0' 
 
 9* 
 
 Of 8 
 
 O 1 
 2 
 
 tern 
 O 1 
 
 0" 
 O 7 
 
 0' 
 0* 
 
 
 ;. 
 
 v 
 
 O 4 
 
 
 1 8 
 
 i 
 
 1" 
 
 7' 
 
 :,' 
 
 5 
 
 4" 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 0" 
 
 V 
 
 3.. 
 
 i r 
 
 i 4 
 
 1 
 
 9' 
 
 y 
 
 75 
 
 V 
 
 54 
 
 3 
 
 I 4 
 
 O 7 
 
 4.. 
 
 1 5 
 
 i 
 
 G 
 
 1 O a 
 
 u 
 
 10" 
 
 9" 
 
 7' ; 
 
 5 s 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 :... 
 
 1 4" 
 
 i 
 
 O 4 
 
 122 
 
 i i' 
 
 1 O 3 
 
 II 4 
 
 10' 
 
 8 
 
 4 3 
 
 1* 
 
 r,.. 
 
 1 3* 
 
 
 
 0= 
 
 1 3 s 
 
 1 3' 
 
 1 2 4 
 
 1 I 6 
 
 1 03 
 
 10 6 
 
 2' 
 
 7 . 1 2 4 
 
 II- 
 
 O 1 
 
 1 4 5 
 
 1 43 
 
 1 3 7 
 
 1 3 3 1 2 
 
 1 : 
 
 2* 
 
 .. i r 
 
 O 4 
 
 
 1 53 
 
 1 fli 
 
 1 4" 
 
 1 4 
 
 1 3- 
 
 1 I 4 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 0.. 1 1* 
 
 O 4 
 
 
 1 .-,' 
 
 1 5" 
 
 1 5 s 
 
 1 5 
 
 1 4' 
 
 1 2' 
 
 11' 
 
 * 
 
 10.. 
 
 1 P 
 
 O 4 
 
 
 1 6 
 
 1 ." 
 
 1 5 6 
 
 1 6 
 
 1 4= 
 
 1 32 
 
 11 s 
 
 2< 
 
 11.. 
 
 1 1 s 
 
 s 
 
 0' 
 
 
 
 1 53 
 
 1 5 
 
 1 4" 
 
 1 2 
 
 11' 
 
 2 
 
 12.. 
 
 1 2 
 
 0' 
 
 U 3 
 
 i 52 
 
 1 5 
 
 1 4' 
 
 1 42 
 
 1 32 
 
 1 I 4 
 
 92 
 
 2 
 
 .. 
 
 1 2' 
 
 1" 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 I 4' 
 
 1 3 
 
 
 1 1 
 
 11 
 
 .V 
 
 1 
 
 14.. 
 
 1 3' 
 
 12 
 
 0" 
 
 1 
 
 1 2 
 
 1 I 7 
 
 1 1 
 
 IP 
 
 S 1 
 
 32 
 
 1 
 
 15.. 
 
 i r, 
 
 I 6 
 
 1' 
 
 1 i ' 
 
 
 11 
 
 9 7 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 1 B 
 
 O 7 
 
 16.. 
 
 1 6* 
 
 I 7 
 
 p 
 
 93 
 
 7 s 
 
 V 
 
 5 4 
 
 4 
 
 2 4 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 17.. 
 18.. 
 
 1 -- 
 
 1 10 
 
 4' 
 
 afte 
 2 
 
 r side >if si 
 11' O 1 
 
 2 s 
 
 .rnpo 
 
 0' 
 
 2 
 
 st 
 0' 
 
 0' 
 
 0' 
 O 1 
 
 0' 
 

 
 204 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 During the season of 1887 she was sailed with the ballast 
 and sails shown in Plate XXXII., with either one or two 
 as crew, but a jib of 30ft. will be added, cutting the 
 present mainsail down the line of the mast, thus making 
 it a gaff sail all abaft the mast, the bowsprit to be 4ft. 
 outboard and the jib to trim aft of the mast and be capa- 
 ble of being set and taken in from the cockpit. When 
 sailing alone, in addition four 251b. pigs of lead cast in 
 the form of a truncated pyramid and covered with can- 
 vas and roped, will be carried to be shifted to windward, 
 lone has no watertight compartments, but her owner 
 proposes to fit them in her. The sails are of Polhemus 
 twill, about 4oz. A (jib. Chester anchor and 25 fathoms 
 of 12-thread manilla has held on in 15 fathoms of water 
 with a good jump on, a lee-going tide and two 15x30 
 canoes fastened to mizenmast. All the sailing of the 
 above boat has bsen done in Newark and New York bays 
 and around Sandy Hcok and Staten Island. The yards 
 are egg-shaped and the booms are square to facilitate the 
 reefing gear. 
 
 CANOE YAWLS. 
 
 The success of the earlier canoes called the attention of 
 boating men generally to the many good points of this 
 type of boat, with the result that a number of large craft 
 have been built much on the lines of the ordinary sailing 
 canoe. All of the earlier boats were yawl rigged, some 
 like a canoe and others with a jib, and hence the name 
 "canoe yawl" was given to distinguish them from the 
 small canoe. Within the past three years the number of 
 these boats has greatly increased in England, while they 
 are also becoming better known and liked in America, and 
 some of them make very fine cruising craft, being far more 
 able and powerful than the canoe. They are built with 
 center board or keel, generally the latter, and are rigged
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 205 
 
 with the main and mizen, like the canoe, or as cutters, 
 sloops and yawls, the latter being perhaps the best for 
 single-hand cruising. Some of them, such as the Gassy, 
 the Water Rat and the Viper, have made their reputations 
 as cruisers by several seasons of constant work in open 
 waters. They are well fitted for bays and arms of the 
 sea where the canoe cannot safely and comfortably be used; 
 their shape, that of the whale boat and surf boat, is one 
 of the best for a sea boat, and they are less costly to build 
 than the small counter-sterned yacht, while superior to 
 the square-sterned boat. 
 
 PLATE XXXII. "ANNIE," CENTEBBOAKD CANOE YAWL. 
 
 This boat was designed to have a light draft and to be 
 light enough to house easily, so a fixed keel and ballast 
 were dispensed with. Her leading dimensions are: 
 Length, 18ft.; bsam, 5ft. The drawings show a slightly 
 smaller boat, but a scale was used in building which 
 brought the beam up to oft. Annie was built at Oswego, 
 N. Y., for Mr. Geo. N. Burt, by Joseph Henley, who made 
 the model from the owner's instructions. She has been 
 used on Lake Ontario with great success, proving fast as 
 well as safe and comfortable for pleasure sailing. As 
 the hull is light it can readily be hauled in or out of the 
 house by one man, quite a consideration in some locali- 
 ties. Annie is planked with fain, cedar and white pine 
 in alternate streaks, the timbers being x^in., spaced 
 4in. The deck is of cedar, on chestnut carlins Ixlfin., 
 spaced Gin. The cockpit is 7ft. 2in. long and 3ft. oin. 
 wide, with ;; oin. coaming of butternut. The centerboard 
 trunk is 3ft. long and the board is of boiler plate, 2Glbs. 
 The total weight of hull is SOOlbs. The ballast consists of 
 six bricksof lend, "2.Tll)s. each, stowt^l in the space abreast 
 the trunk, besides which two bags of sand, 501 bs. each, 
 are carried in the well. Tiie lead bricks are covered with 
 canvas and have rope handle*, si> they are quickly carried
 
 206 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 in or out. The spaces in each end are filled with air 
 tanks, one being placed also on each side of the well 
 as shown. No oars are used, a paddle being carried for 
 calm weather, but the boat is expected to sail whenever 
 there is any wind. She is rigged with a boom and gaff 
 mainsail and a sprit mizen. The mainmast is 17ft., heel 
 to head, and Sin. in diameter; mainboom 12ft., gaff 5ft 
 4in., mizenmast lift., and 2Jin. in diameter, boom 5ft. 
 The hoist of ma insail is 12ft. 4in. , and of mizen 8ft. The 
 main gaff has peak and throat halliards, the former with 
 double block on mast and single on gaff. Both halliards 
 lead through f airleaders on deck to the after end of trunk, 
 where they belay. The rudder is fitted with long steering 
 lines. There are no fixed thwarts, but movable seats are 
 used. A spinaker is carried on the mainmast, the boom 
 being jointed for stowage. She has been through some 
 bad weather on Lake Ontario, proving herself a fine 
 rough-water boat, riding lightly and going well to wind- 
 ward in rough water. In ordinary sailing she is very 
 fast, and with two or three persons aboard carries her 
 sail easily. 
 
 PLATE XXXIII." GASSY." 
 
 Length 14ft. 
 
 Beam 3ft. 4in. 
 
 Depth midships 1ft. 4in. 
 
 Sheer, bow ll^in. 
 
 stern 5in. 
 
 Bow to after side of tabernacle 3ft. 
 
 fore end of trunk 4ft. 
 
 after end of trunk 7ft. 
 
 after end of well lift. 6in. 
 
 rowlocks 9ft. 6in. 
 
 Area, mainsail racing 120 sq. ft. 
 
 mainsail cruising 80-70 sq. ft. 
 
 mizen 15 sq.. ft. 
 
 Length of tabernacle ISin. 
 
 oars 8ft. 
 
 Width of rudder 1ft. Gin.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 207 
 
 The canoe yawl Cassy was designed and built by Mr. G. 
 F. Holmes, for use on the Humber River. She is fitted 
 with the tabernacle and centerboard devised by Mr. Tred- 
 wen, the latter of TOlbs. being all the ballast used with 
 cruising rig, but sandbags are carried in racing, about 
 lOOlbs. being used. The forward thwart can be placed 
 Sin. below the gun wale for rowing, or about Gin. above the 
 bottom for sailing. The rig includes two balance lugs as 
 in a canoe, with a deck tiller. 
 
 The smaller cut is described on page 23. 
 
 PLATE XXXIV. "VITAL SPARK." 
 
 The Vital Spark is of canoe model, 18ft. long, oft. beam, 
 2ft. 2in. draft. She is carvel built, with fin. planking, 
 keel sided 3 at middle, If at ends, with 4|-cwt. of lead 
 underneath, and an equal amount of lead inside. 
 
 The sail plan is that of a similar boat, the Viper, 
 whose sheer plan and rig are shown in the drawing; she 
 is 20ft. long, beam 5ft. Sin. , depth to gunwale amidships, 
 2ft. Gin. Deck has a crown of Sin. , and is of light wood 
 covered with canvas. Her keel has 19cwt., 2qrs., 191bs. 
 of lead, with 2cwt., Iqr., 181bs. inside, and an iron keel- 
 son of 731bs. The depth of keel is 1ft. 9in., and the 
 total depth 3ft. 4in. 
 
 The rig is a convenient one for small boats, as jib and 
 mizen may be used together in strong winds, the mainsail 
 being stowed. The Viper, as shown, carries a staysail as 
 well as a jib, and a small gaff trysail.
 
 208 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 PLATE XXXV. SAIL PLAN OF CANOE YAWL. 
 
 The term "yawl" applied to a cutter-rigged boat is an 
 anomaly, but the type of boat in question is now com- 
 monly known as the "canoe yawl," from its derivation 
 directly from the canoe and the fact that it is almost 
 invariably yawl rigged. The boat shown in Plate XXXV. 
 was built from the lines of the Vital Spark, Plate 
 XXXIV., but was rigged as a cutter. Her dimensions 
 are as follows: 
 
 Length on deck 18ft. 4in. 
 
 Beam 5ft. 
 
 Draft 2ft. 2in. 
 
 Freeb:ard 1ft. - 
 
 Cockpit 7ft.6in.x4ft. 
 
 Lead keel 850 pounds. 
 
 Ballast inside, iron 250 pounds. 
 
 Planking %in. 
 
 Mast, from fore side of stem 6ft. lOin. 
 
 Mast, deck to hounds. 14ft. Sin. 
 
 Mast, deck to truck 18ft. 9in. 
 
 Mast, diameter at deck 4in. 
 
 Bowsprit, outboard 6ft. 
 
 Bowsprit, diaireter at stem Sin. 
 
 Mainboom 15ft. 
 
 Mainboom, diameter 2^in. 
 
 Gaff (oval, 2^4 Xl^in) 9ft. Gin. 
 
 Center of lateral resistance aft center of leadline.. . lOin. 
 
 Center of effort forward of center of loadline Sin. 
 
 Center of effort above loadline 6ft. 4in. 
 
 SAIL AREA. 
 
 Foot. Luff. Leech. Head. Area. 
 
 Mainsail 13.9 11.0 17.8 8.9 ISOgq.ft. 
 
 Staysail 8.2 130 H.3 ... 48sq.ft. 
 
 Jib 8.0 15.8 11 .0 ... 45 sq.^. 
 
 Total sail area 233 sq.ft. 
 
 Area of reefed mainsail 80 sq.ft. 
 
 With the above amount of ballast the draft is a little less 
 than 26in., but in cruising the crew and stores would bring
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 209 
 
 her to her leadline. The center of effort of reefed mainsail 
 and whole staysail is shown at C E 2, and of the two head- 
 sails at C E 3. Many will object to the double rig, but in 
 practice it ie found to work excellently, being very easily 
 handled. The three small sails are easily set by a boy, and 
 the headsail sheets, leading to the rail as shown, may be 
 reached from the tiller. In tucking they are readily got 
 down with one hand without leaving the stick. The jib is 
 set flying, the outhaul being an endless line, with a snaphook 
 spliced in. The hook is snapped to the jib tack, the sail 
 partly hoisted and hauled out. When not in use it is stowed 
 in a bag instead of being furled on the bowsprit. No jibstay 
 being needed, the bowsprit is fitted with a tackle on the 
 bobstay and is easily housed entirely, which is sometimes a 
 great convenience in running into odd places as such small 
 boats constantly do. The fittings are very simple, a gammon 
 iron bolted to port side of stem head, a sampson post of 
 2x6in. oak plank, with a 3in. hole bored through for the 
 heel of the round bowsprit, a fid of iin. round iron, and two 
 small iron blocks for the bobstay tackle, one hooking into 
 a wire rope bobstay. 
 
 In some cases a tabernacle and lowering mast are desirable, 
 and with a foresta}' both are easily fitted. The tabernacle 
 is made of two pieces, B B, of oak 1^x4 incnes, stepped iu 
 the keel, D, and coming to the coaming I I. The mast is 
 stepped in the block C under the floor K, and is held by the 
 forcstay and two shrouds, all fitted with turnbuckles. A 
 bar F of Ifx^iu. iron is bolted to the tabernacle's sides, one 
 bolt G being fitted with a thumb nut, while the bar is slotted 
 on the starboard side to slip over the neck of the bolt, turn- 
 ing on the port bolt. When G is loosened the bar may l;c 
 turned over out of the way and the mast lowered. To avoid 
 cutting away the floor for a distance aft of the mast, a block 
 of oak, E, is bolted to the heel of the latter, on the alter 
 side. When the mast is lowered the block turns on the edge 
 L, lifting the mast out of the step as it falls uft. In lower- 
 ing, the halliards are stopped to the mast out of the way, the 
 jib halliard is carried forward and hooked to stern head, the
 
 210 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 bar F is swung back and the mast is lowered by the jib hal- 
 liard. The shrouds and also the parrel on the gaff must 
 both be slackened. One man can readily lower and hoist 
 the mast for bridges, etc. 
 
 The leads of the various lines are as follows: Throat hal- 
 liards to cleat d on starboard side, peak to cleat b on same 
 side so that both can be reached ut the same time; staysail 
 halliards on cleat c, jib on clr;at a, toppinglift on cleat e on 
 inast, staysail downhaul knotted in hole in coaming at/. 
 The mainsail is thus set from the starboard and the head- 
 sails from the port side of the boom, and the downhaul is 
 handy to the staysail halliard. All are easily reached by 
 leaving the tiller for a moment, and one man can manage all 
 lines. The boat has air tanks in each end, a large cuddy 
 forward and seats in the cockpit. For cruising the seats 
 would fold out, making a bed for two or even three (4x7ft.), 
 while a tent would be pitched over the boom. The yawl 
 rig would answer wtll for such a boat, but the present one 
 has proved very satisfactory for singlehanded sailing and 
 cruising. 
 
 The following descriptions of similar boats are given by 
 correspondents of the London Field, in answer to inquiries: 
 
 One writer says: "I have just launched a canoe yuwl, 
 length 18ft. by 5ft. Sin. beam, and a draft of 2ft. aft, and 
 1ft. Sin. forward. She has at present 9cwt. of lead and iron 
 ballast inside, but requires 4cwt. or 5cwt. more. She is 
 fitted with a well 7ft. Gin. iu length, the fore end being 7ft. 
 Gin. from the fore side of the stem. She is rigged with a 
 standing lug mainsail, hoisted with a single halliard, and 
 the tack purchased down with a gun tackle; the clew is 
 hauled out with a traveler on the boom, which is fitted to 
 the mast with a gooseneck; the mast is stepped 2ft. Gin. aft 
 of the outside of the stem; the mizzenmast is stepped 1ft. 
 inboard from the stern, the sail being a leg o' mutton. 
 Height of mainmast above deck, 19ft. ; height of mizzenmast 
 above deck, 10ft.; length of head of lug, 14ft.; length of 
 luff of lug, 9ft. ; length of leach of lug, 23ft ; length of 
 foot of lug, 13ft. Gin. ; length of luff of mizzen, 8ft Gin. ;
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDINc. 211 
 
 length of leach of mizzen, 8ft. Gin. ; length of foot of mizzen, 
 Oft. On the trial trip she handled very well under sail; with 
 the tiller amidship, she nearly steered herself on a wind. 
 In placing the well alt I secured room for a comfortable 
 little cuddy under the forcdcck, with u headroom of 82in. ; 
 and with only 3ft of deck aft of the well, I do not require a 
 deck yoke steering gear, as used on the Mersey canoe yawls, 
 but have an ordinary iron tiller, wilh a crook in it to pass 
 the mizzen. I think 'Pansy' could not find a much handier 
 rig for this class of boat. I may mention that I have had 
 the above canoe yawl built for use on the Humber." 
 
 Another adds: "In reply to 'Pansy, 'permit me to eaythat 
 I have sailed single-handed for some years a Mersey canoe 
 with a center plate, nearly the same size as 'Pansy's,' under 
 a standing lug and mizzen, and a handier, safer and more 
 seaworthy little craft I could not desire. She was built here 
 very faithfully and cheaply. I have, however, found that 
 the sail originally given her was too much for real sea work, 
 although considerably less in area than Mersey canoes are 
 designed theoretically to cany. My ballast was 3701bs. lead 
 inside, i*nd the iron plate weighed llOlbs. The sail I triea 
 to carry at times was a lug with a boom 10ft. on head and 
 foot; luff, 5ft.; leach, 14ft. ; jibheaded mizzen, foot, 5ft. ; 
 lull, Oft. Gin. ; leach, 7ft ; height of mainmast, step to truck, 
 12ft. But seldom indeed could 1 give her this sail when 
 single-handed, so 1 reduced the inside ballast to about 1121bs., 
 the mainsail to 8ft. on head and foot for light winds, and 
 had another lug 6ft. Gin. on head and foot, with 4tt. luff 
 and a reef in the mizzeu for every day work; under the latter 
 sails the boat was, all round, more useful and infinitely drier 
 in a sea way. Guided by rough expeiieuce, I advocate for 
 single handed small boat woik, the lug and mizzen sail plan, 
 with a shift of main lugs (.the lug set by Dixou Kemp's p. an 
 of peak and throat halliards, which is admirable indeed), ^in 
 preference to lug, jib and mizzen. Simplicity is the true 
 motto for single-handed small boat work at sea; and if a 
 boat is equally handy without the head sail, why should gear 
 be complicated with head sheets and halliards?"
 
 212 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 PLATE XXXVI. MERSEY CAKOES. 
 
 The Mersey canoes or canoe yawls, have grown out of the 
 small canoes, and are used like them for general cruising, 
 but on more open waters. The dimensions are: Length 17ft., 
 beam 4ft. Gin., depth 2ft. Oars are used, as the beam is too 
 great to admit of paddling. The deck and well is similar to 
 a canoe. Lead ballast is stored under the floors. The rig 
 consists of two lugs, main and mizzen, the dimensions being; 
 
 Racing Cruising 
 
 mainsail. mainsail. Mizzan. 
 
 Ft. In. Ft. In. Ft. In. 
 
 Foot 10 00 6 06 4 06 
 
 Head 10 00 7 OB 2 03 
 
 Luff 5 00 2 06 2 04 
 
 Leaeh 14 06 10 CO 6 00 
 
 Tack to peak 14 08 9 00 5 03 
 
 Clew to throat 10 09 7 00 4 M9 
 
 As there is no centerboard the interior of the well is entirely 
 unobstructed, and there is room for three persons, though on 
 a cruise two, with the necessary stores and baggage, would 
 be enough. Beds for two might easily be made up on the 
 wide, flat floor, a tent being pitched over the well, while the 
 seats may be removed entirely at night. Under the fore and 
 after decks is ample room for storage of all stores. The 
 steering is done with a deck tiller, as in a canoe. 
 
 In building such a boat, the stem, sternpost and keel 
 would be of oak or the former of hackmatack sided lin. ; 
 keelson of oak, Sx^in. ; plank of cedar, -,% or fin. lapstreak; 
 gunwale of oak or mahogany; deck of fin. pine, covered 
 with 6 to 8oz. drijl laid in paint; coamings of oak, fin. 
 thick. The ribs would be fxf , spaced 9in., with floors at 
 every alternate frame. 
 
 The sails are rigged as "standing lugs," or a yawl rig 
 similar to the Viper may be carried. Thoy will be of 6oz. 
 drill, double bighted; rigging of "small 6-thread" manilla; 
 blocks of wood, iron or brass. 
 
 The dimensions of a similar canoe arc given in "Cruises in 
 Small Yachts and Big Canoes," by Mr. H. F. Speed, as fol- 
 lows: 16ft. long, 4ft. l|in. beam, 20in. deep amidships, with
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING, 218 
 
 6jin. of keel, containing 3cwt. of lead. Inside she carried 
 Icwt. lOlbs. of lead. The sail area was 180ft. mainsail 
 and mizen, lugs, with jib, the dimensions of spars being: 
 
 Main mast 18ft. lin. 
 
 boom for lug sal. 1 10 ;t. 4in. 
 
 yard for lug saii 12ft. 6in. 
 
 boom, for gaff mainsail 8ft. 5in. 
 
 gaff for gaff mainsail 8ft. 6in. 
 
 Mizen mast Oft. 
 
 boom 6ft. 4 n. 
 
 yard 7ft. 4in. 
 
 boomkin, outboard 2ft. Cin. 
 
 Bowspri t, outboard 5ft. 9in. 
 
 Spinaker boom. 10ft. Bin. 
 
 Tonnage, "one ton and an awful fraction." 
 
 Her well was 5ft. Gin. long and 2ft. Gin. wide, with a 
 locker aft for stores, open lockers along the side, and 
 two shifting thwarts, steering with a half yoke on the 
 rudder, and a rod hinged thereto, the motion, of course, 
 bein^ fore and aft. The well was covered completely by 
 a tent. 
 
 PLATE XXXVII. "IRIS"' CANOE YAWL. 
 
 This boat was built in 1887 by J. A. Akester, of Horn- 
 sea, near Hull, Bug., and is now owned by Mr. Holmes, 
 of the Gassy. The hull is carvel built. The mast is fitted 
 with a tabernacle for lowering, the sail plan being shown 
 in plate. The inside ballast is in four blocks, two being 
 generally carried, while the lead keel weighs 4501bs. 
 A ccntorboard could readily be fitted to work entirely 
 beneath lii - liou;-. an. 1 would be a great aid to the boat in 
 windward work. The tiller is of iron, and curved as 
 shown BO as to work about the mizen mast. The dimen- 
 sions are as follows: 
 
 Length over all 18ft. 
 
 l.w.l 17ft. 4 in. 
 
 Beam, extreme oft. 1 in. 
 
 l.w.1 4ft. 7 in. 
 
 Draft, extreme 1ft. 4 4 in. 
 
 Least freeboard. 1ft. 1 in.
 
 214 
 
 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 Sheer, bow , Win. 
 
 stern ... 7 in. 
 
 Ballast, keel, lead 4501bs. 
 
 inside, lead 2251bs. 
 
 Mainmast, from stem 2ft. 3 4 in. 
 
 deck to truck 15ft. 3 in. 
 
 Mizenmast, from stem. 17ft. 3 4 in. 
 
 deck to truck 7ft. 
 
 Mizen boomkin 2ft. 3 in. 
 
 Main boom. 15ft. 
 
 yard loft. 
 
 Mizen boom 6ft. 
 
 batten 6ft. Bin. 
 
 Mainsail, area 168 sq. ft. 
 
 Mizen, area 25 sq. ft. 
 
 Total .7193 sq. ft. 
 
 TABL3 OP OFFSETS CANOE YAWL IRIS. 
 
 Stations. 
 
 HEIGHTS. 
 
 HALF BREADTHS. 
 
 Deck 
 
 Rab't 
 
 Keel. 
 
 Deck 
 
 No.l. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 L.WL. 
 
 Mo. 4. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 Rabbet 
 
 
 
 
 O 2 
 
 1 O 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 1* 
 
 2.. 
 
 3 02 
 
 II 6 
 
 8 
 
 8 4 
 
 7 
 
 52 
 
 S 2 
 
 
 
 4.. 
 
 2 9 
 
 9 4 
 
 52 
 
 1 9i 
 
 1 6 
 
 ] 4 
 
 1 I 2 
 
 9 4 
 
 45 
 
 2' 
 
 6.. 
 
 2 7 1 
 
 7 7 
 
 3 
 
 2 2 2 
 
 2 O 6 
 
 1 I!' 
 
 1 8" 
 
 1 5 
 
 118 
 
 3 1 
 
 8.. 
 
 2 62 
 
 7 
 
 I 4 
 
 2 5 s 
 
 2 4 4 
 
 2 3* 
 
 2 2 
 
 1 II 2 
 
 1 G' 
 
 S 2 
 
 10.. 
 
 2 5" 
 
 7 
 
 O 4 
 
 2 6 2 
 
 2 5 6 
 
 2 4 7 
 
 2 3 
 
 2 I 2 
 
 1 8< 
 
 S 2 
 
 12.. 
 
 2 6 
 
 6 6 
 
 I 2 B 
 
 2 4 7 
 
 2 4 
 
 2 2 4 
 
 1 11" 
 
 ] 72 
 
 3i 
 
 14.. 
 
 2 7 4 
 
 e 6 ; o 2 
 
 2 9a 
 
 2 O 6 
 
 1 II 6 1 10 
 
 i 7 1 
 
 1 2' 
 
 3 
 
 10.. 
 
 18.. 
 
 2 9 7 
 3 O 4 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 1 5* 
 
 03 
 
 1 3 3 
 
 1 I 7 1 
 
 9 4 
 
 6 5 
 
 2 
 1 
 
 
 

 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 215 
 
 SNEAKBOXES AND CRUISING BOATS. 
 
 PLATE XXXVIII. BARNEGAT SNEAKBOX. 
 
 This curious boat is used on Barnegat Bay, on the New 
 Jersey coast, for duck shooting and sailing. Being low on 
 the water, it is easily converted into a blind, by covering 
 with brush, and its flat, spoon shaped bottom allows it to 
 be drawn up easily on the mud or sand. The usual size is 
 12x4ft., and the rig is a small epritsail. Most of the Bar- 
 negat boats are fitted with a dagger centei board, sliding in a 
 small trunk from which it may be drawn entirely. The 
 boat shown is used only for sailing, and is fitted with a 
 board of the usual form, hung on a bolt. The rig is also 
 different. The dimensions of the boat are: Length over all, 
 16ft ; beam, 4t. llin. ; deptli amidships, i2in.; draft, 8in.; 
 keel, of oak, Sin. wide; frames IJin., sided, lin. moulded, 
 sp:iced 13in ; planking (carvel build), -j a 6 iu. ; round of deck, 
 Sin. ; deck planking, fin. ; coaming 2in. high at sides; width 
 of rudder, 24in. ; mast at deck, Sin. 
 
 The sail is a balance lug, hung from a single halliard. 
 The yard and boom are each held in to the mast by parrels, 
 There is no tack to hold the boom down, as is usual in these 
 sails, but a line is made fast to the free end of boom, lead- 
 ing to the deck near the inast, where it is belayed, thus 
 preventing the sail from running forward, and answering 
 the purpose of a tackline. The dimensions of the sail are: 
 Foot, 15ft. Gin.; head, 9ft. 8iu.; luff, 9ft. 7in. ; leach, 20ft.; 
 clew to tbroat, 16ft. lOin. Area, 160 sq. ft. 
 
 In anchoring the boat the cable must be rigged so as to 
 be reached from the well, as in the smaller sizes a man can- 
 not walk out on deck to the bow.
 
 216 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 PLATE XXXIX THE BARSEGAT CRUISER. 
 
 The prominence given to cruising of late years by the in- 
 creased growth and importance of canoeing has brought 
 many into the ranks who do not care for so small a boat as 
 the canoe, but who wish a strong, roomy and serviceable 
 boat, either for cruising or for general sailing, alone or with 
 one or two friends. The canoe is really a boat for one 
 person, and must be capable of being paddled, sailed and 
 handled on shore by one; but where these conditions do not 
 prevail a different type of boat may often be used to advan- 
 tage. In places where the boat must lie afloat and a fine 
 canoe would be damaged ; in open waters where there is no 
 occasion to haul up the boat, and where transit by rail is 
 not an object; in shooting trips and other cruises where sev- 
 eral persons, and perhaps a do?, must be carried, the boat 
 shown in Plate XXXIX. will answer admirably. This 
 boat, named by its designer the "Barnegat Cruiser," is an 
 adaptation of the common sneakbox, found all along the 
 New Jersey coast (see Plate XXXVIII., p. 215) to the wants 
 of cruisers. Mr. N. H. Bishop, so widely known as a canoe- 
 ist, cruiser, traveler and an able writer in behalf of cruising, 
 has for some time past made a special study of the sneakbox 
 at his home at Toms River, N. J., the home of the craft. 
 He has built and tried boxes of all kinds, has experimented 
 largely with sails, and has expended considerable study on 
 the details of fittings. The boat shown in Plate XXXIX. is 
 a 14-ft. cruiser of the new model, a number of which are 
 now building at Toms River under Mr. Bishop's personal 
 supervision, for members of the American Single-hand 
 Cruising Club. The lines shown were taken from "Seneca's" 
 boat, described in the Forest and Stream. The dimensions 
 
 are: 
 
 Length 14ft. Oia. 
 
 Beam 4ft. 6in. 
 
 Depth at gunwale 1ft. lin. 
 
 Sheer, bow SJ^in. 
 
 Sheer, stern 4in. 
 
 Draft, loaded 6in. 
 
 Freeboard 7in. 
 
 Crown of deck . . Sin.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 217 
 
 Fore side of stem to 
 
 Mast tube 2ft. 9$n. 
 
 Trunk, fore end 8ft. lin. 
 
 Trunk, after end Cft. Sin. 
 
 Well, fore end 5ft. lOin. 
 
 Well, after end lift. Oin. 
 
 Rowlocks Oft. lin. 
 
 Bulkhead 12ft. Oin. 
 
 Diameter of mast tube 3in. 
 
 In shape the new cruiser resembles the old sneakboxes, but 
 is deeper than most of the latter. The board is of steel plate 
 iin. thick, pivoted at the fore end in place of the dagger 
 boards once common in these craft. The construction i3 
 quite peculiar. Both keel and planking are of white cedar 
 fin. thick. Tbe keel is flat, in one piece, its half breadth 
 being shown by the dotted linos in the half-breadth and body 
 plans. There is no stem piece, but the keel is bent up, 
 forming the stem. The garboards, also shown by the dot- 
 ted lines, end along the gunwale, instead of in a rabbet in 
 the stern, as in most boats. 
 
 In building, after the keel is fastened to the stocks, with 
 the proper curve, the stern and moulds are put in place. 
 Then two pieces, A A, are sawn out of lin. board, the shape 
 being taken from the deck line on the floor. These pieces 
 are screwed in place, at the height of the lower side of the 
 deck, and remain permanently in the boat. The ribs are 
 now bent and fitted in place, nailed to the keel, and the 
 upper ends of the forward ones are nailed to the pieces A A. 
 As the planks are put on, they also are fastened at the fore 
 end to A A. The correct breadths of each plank may be 
 taken from the body plan on every frame. The frames are 
 of sawn cedar l^xl ^in. aad spaced lOin. The trunk is of 
 pine, deck and ceiling |in. cedar. Tbe rowlocks are of 
 brass, fitted to fold down. A very peculiar feature of the 
 new boat is a high washboard all around the gunwale, to 
 keep off water and to serve as a receptacle for odd articles on 
 deck. Forward the two sides are bolted to a chock of wood 
 or an iron-casting of the shape shown, the top making a fair 
 leader for the cable. Along the sides the washboards are
 
 218 
 
 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 held down by an iron catch, a b. The piece, b, made of 
 band iron, f xin., is screwed to the deck and a notch in the 
 lower side of the washboard hooks under it. The piece a 
 is pivoted to b, serving, when closed, as a stop to keep the 
 board in place. To remove the washboard, a is turned to one 
 side, when the board may be slipped free of b. Aft the 
 washboard is fitted with two battens, sliding into square 
 staples in the stern. 
 
 A smaller boat of the same kind just built is 13ft. Sin. 
 long. The centerboard, of galvanized iron, is placed 3ft. 
 8in. from stern, the trunk being 3ft. l^in. long on bottom. 
 The rig of the larger boat is a balance lug of the following 
 shape:
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 219 
 
 It has battens and is hung in the ordinary manner. A 
 rudder may be used, but the boat is often steered with 
 an oar. 
 
 The following description of the outfit of one of these 
 boats is given by "Seneca": 
 
 Beginning at the stein, she is decked over oft. lOin. 
 The centerboard trunk begins 3ft. lin. from the bow tnd 
 ends at the fore end of the cockpit. Between the s-tem 
 and the centerboard trunk are an extra coil of rope and 
 an extra coffee pot and tin pail. A shrimp net with handle 
 and a jointed fishing rod also occupy part of this space, 
 and extend part way alongside the starboard side of the 
 trunk aft. To the starboard of the trunk, in easy reach 
 of the cockpit, are two small oil stoves and a can of 
 kerosene oil, also a brass rod which is used to shove down 
 the centerboard. On the port side of the trunk are the 
 clothes bag and the granite- ware cooking utensils, kettle, 
 coffee pot, three cups and thiee plates. The cockpit tent 
 is folded up on the floor close to the after end of the 
 trunk, and next comes a tin water-tight box with the 
 rubber bag of bedding atop of it, which is used as a seat 
 when rowing. 
 
 The box is divided into compartments. No. 1 compart- 
 ment contains awl, gimlet, screwdriver, nippers, oyster 
 knife, cartridge loading tools, brass screws, screweyes, 
 brass and galvanized blocks, safety-pin hooks, nails, rings, 
 spare cleats, tacks, etc. No. 2 compartment contains un- 
 loaded shells. No. 8, loaded shells. No. 4, fishing tackle 
 of all kinds, small mirror, comb, thread and needles. 
 No. 5 contains gun-cleaning tips, waste, rags and a bottle 
 of gun oil. In the cover of the box a jointed cleaning 
 rod is held by springs. In the rubber bedding bag are 
 mosquito netting, two blankets, a quilt and a thick car- 
 riage robe, and perhaps an extra flannel shirt or two that 
 can't be crowded into the clothes bag. Between this seat 
 and the after end of the cockpit is a clear space in which 
 to "work ship.'' 
 
 The after deck is 3ft. long, covering a 2ft. cuddy and a
 
 220 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 foot of room below decks. In the latter space are stowed 
 the two water jugs, a rubber inflatable mattress, a rubber 
 coat and a macintosh-covered baslret containing bread, 
 pilot biscuit, cheese, etc. In the stern cuddy are canned 
 soups, canned plum puddings, sardines, and other tinned 
 edibles, potatoes or other vegetables in water-proof muslin 
 bags; a candle lantern, riding light, and odds and ends 
 of all descriptions. Underneath the side decks on either 
 side of the cockpit are little shelves between every two 
 deck braces. There are seven of these shelves on each 
 side, "which, numbered from the stern, are occupied as 
 
 follows: 
 
 Port. Starboard. 
 
 , j Baa of shot. Bag of shot. 
 
 i Can of powder Revolver. 
 
 I Soap, sponge Pipe, tobacco. 
 
 2 -< Whisk broom Box of matches. 
 
 ( Scrub brush 
 
 ( Monkey wrench Hatch p;idlock. 
 
 3 -< Can opener, big Case-knife, fork. 
 
 ( Spoon, pliers Three teaspoons. 
 
 ( Coffee can Sugar can. 
 
 4 -j Salt can Condensed milk. 
 
 ( Pepper box Bottle chow-chow. 
 
 Spare rowlocks Hatchet. 
 
 Spare blocks. 
 Candles. 
 
 Towels Grub in general. 
 
 Slippers. 
 
 The gun lies on the floor under starboard side deck 
 and the skipper's artificial aids to walking under port 
 side deck. On deck, between stem and mast, 2ft. 9in., 
 is coiled the anchor cable, with Chester folding 121b. 
 anchor. On side decks, where the Gin. high washboard 
 prevents their rolling off, are the oars, boathook, mast 
 and sail when not in use. A stern cable is coiled on after 
 deck. 
 
 In sailing a long-handle tiller is used, so that steering 
 can be done from the cockpit, but under certain condi- 
 tions the skipper steers from the after deck, with the 
 tiller put on the rudder head "stern foremost," the handle 
 sticking out astern like a boomkin. The cruising sail
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 221 
 
 generally used is a spritsail, which can be stowed below, 
 the hatches put on and locked, and the cruiser left at any 
 port with everything in her, while the skipper takes the 
 train home to spend Sunday with his family. 
 
 With such arrangements as the above the skipper lives 
 aboard his boat, sometimes not touching shore for three 
 or four days. Sitting on her oilcloth covered floor to cook 
 a meal, he can reach everything necessary without mov- 
 ing bis position; sitting there at night with the tent up he 
 has 4ft. of headroom in a waterproof cabin, which can be 
 made warm and cosy in December by keeping one of 
 the oil stoves alight; and anchored at night in a cove he 
 sleeps like a top on a soft "air mattress," rocked gently 
 by the waves. 
 
 PLATES XL. AND XLL "FOREST AND STREAM" CRUISER. 
 
 The sneakbox is essentially a hunting boat, and the 
 Barnegat cruiser shown in Plate XXXIX. partakes 
 largely of the same characteristics. As the attention of 
 boating men has been more generally drawn to the cruis- 
 ing qualities of the sneakbox, many comments, criticisms 
 and suggestions have been made for the improvement of 
 the model as a cruiser, leaving out all considerations of 
 duck shooting and looking only to the end of a safe, speedy 
 and convenient boat, adapted both for general cruising 
 on open water and a safe boat for summer sailing. To 
 meet these wants tho accompanying design was made and 
 a boat built which has proved very satisfactory on trial. 
 The new craft is based on the sneakbox, the bottom of 
 which is kept almost intact; but an inspection of the for- 
 mer boat showed several features capable of alteration, if 
 cruising only was considered. In the first place, the low 
 sides, excellent if the boat is to be used as a blind, have 
 been built up; the excessive crown of deck has been 
 reduced, and the washboards have been discarded. As 
 the height of the deck in the new boat is less than that of 
 the washboard on the old, the windage is reduced, while
 
 222 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 the room inside and the stability are both increased by 
 the additional bulk of the new boat. At the same time 
 the new boat will stow for transport in the same breadth 
 and height as the old, the total depth being the same. 
 The increased freeboard and higher bow improve the boat 
 greatly in rough water. 
 
 On the other hand, the high washboards made a con- 
 venient receptacle for the oars, etc. , but the extra inside 
 room in the latter offers a full compensation. The fold- 
 ing rowlocks are given up entirely, thus removing a 
 troublesome appendage, and cleats are fitted to the 
 coaming, in which ordinary socket rowlocks are set. If 
 it is desired to use a longer oar the cleats may be screwed 
 to the deck near the gunwale. As there is no special 
 virtue in the awkward-looking square stern of the sneak- 
 box, the deck and planking have been extended 2ft. aft, 
 the latter merely continuing in a fair upward curve until 
 they meet at the gunwale as in the bow. This gives a 
 handsome finish to the boat, in the shape of an elliptical 
 stern, with an easier run, more buoyancy and increased 
 deck room. The rudder is of the balanced variety, a 
 suggestion of the owner of the Bojum, the stock being 
 of lin. iron, tc the lower end of which two flat pieces 
 IXlin. are welded, making a shape like a tuning fork. 
 In this fork a piece of lin. oak is set, forming the rudder, 
 the head of the stock is squared for a tiller, and at the 
 level of the deck a hole is drilled for an iron pin, support- 
 ing the whole. To form the rudder trunk a piece o . pine 
 3in. square is fitted from the inside of the planking to 
 the deck, being set in white lead and well screwed 
 through plank and deck. Through the center of this 
 piece a vertical hole lin. in diameter is bored for the 
 rudder stock. 
 
 Owing to the extended deck aft, both the cockpit and 
 centerboard are further aft than in the ordinary sneak- 
 box. The coaming of the cockpit is 2|in. high. The 
 floor boards are raised from 3 to S^in. above the bottom, 
 so that the bilge water will not slop over them, the extra
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 233 
 
 depth allowing this change. There are no fixed thwarts, 
 the oarsman sitting on a box which holds the stores, etc., 
 on a cruise, while in sailing the crew sit on deck or on 
 the floor. When used for pleasure sailing five or six 
 may be accommodated, and in cruising a bed for three 
 can be made up on the wide floor of the 16ft. boat. A 
 tent can easily be rigged over the boat at night, supported 
 by the boom. For one or two persons such a boat 13ft. 
 over all will be quite large enough for cruising, and may 
 be t lilt of light \veight. The dimensions and scales are 
 for two sizes, 16 and 13ft. over all. 
 
 TABLE OF OFFSZT3 THIRTEEN-FOOT CRUISER. 
 
 Stations. 
 
 HEIGHTS. 
 
 HALF-BREADTHS. 
 
 Keel. 
 
 Deck 
 
 Deck 
 
 NO.L 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 LWL 
 
 No. 6 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 0.... 
 1.... 
 2.... 
 3.... 
 4.... 
 5.... 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 1 7 J 
 1 
 5 
 1< 
 0* 
 
 Ft.In 
 1 7 
 1 6 
 1 4 
 1 8 
 1 2 
 1 2' 
 I 1' 
 1 I 8 
 1 1" 
 1 I 7 
 1 2' 
 1 2< 
 1 2' 
 i ;;> 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 7 3 
 1 0=> 
 1 4' 
 1 6 
 1 8 6 
 1 9 s 
 1 10 
 1 9" 
 1 9 
 1 -> 
 1 5 
 1 P 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 Ft.In 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 1 3 
 1 6 2 
 1 8' 
 1 9* 
 1 9 s 
 1 93 
 1 8 
 1 7 
 1 4 
 9" 
 
 8* 
 1 2* 
 1 5 5 
 1 7" 
 1 8 
 1 9' 
 1 9 
 1 8" 
 1 6* 
 1 3 2 
 6* 
 
 6< 
 1 I 1 
 
 1 4' 
 1 7 
 1 8 
 
 1 8 3 
 1 82 
 
 1 7< 
 1 5- 
 1 I 8 
 
 3' 
 11 
 1 3- 
 1 6i 
 
 1 7' 
 1 7< 
 
 1 7- 
 1 ii- 
 1 4' 
 
 10- 
 
 
 
 
 9 8 
 1 2< 
 1 4" 
 1 5 
 1 6 
 1 5 6 
 1 5' 
 1 ;.> 
 6< 
 
 6 7 
 1 
 1 3' 
 
 i y 
 
 1 4 
 1 3' 
 1 3 
 II 3 
 
 O a 
 90 
 1 0" 
 1 O 7 
 1 1 
 1 
 11" 
 
 6... 
 
 
 K-- 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 g 
 
 
 10.... 
 11.... 
 12.... 
 13.... 
 
 I 2 
 3 7 
 8" 
 1 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 394 PROGRESS 
 
 TABLE OF OFFSETS- 
 
 OF CANOEING. 
 
 -SIXTEEN FOOT CRUISER. 
 
 Sta. 
 
 Keel. Deck 
 
 Deck 
 
 No.l. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 LW t 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 0.... 
 1.... 
 2.... 
 3.... 
 4.... 
 5.... 
 6.... 
 
 o 
 
 1 32 
 
 1 O 3 
 52 
 12 
 0' 
 
 2 
 1 9< 
 1 9 
 1 7 6 
 1 6 
 1 6 
 1 53 
 1 5i 
 1 5 
 1 5 
 1 5 
 1 5' 
 1 52 
 1 5* 
 1 5' 
 1 6 3 
 1 7 
 
 
 
 7 6 
 1 1 
 1 63 
 1 8 6 
 1 11 s 
 2 li 
 2 2 
 2 2 
 2 3 
 2 2 7 
 3 2 
 2 0* 
 
 1 103 
 
 1 7 4 
 1 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 8^ 
 1 3' 
 1 7* 
 1 10* 
 2 O 4 
 2 1 
 2 23 
 2 2* 
 2 32 
 
 2 13 
 
 2 
 1 9 4 
 1 55 
 9i 
 
 6 3 
 1 2 
 1 6 5 
 1 9 7 
 2 
 2 1= 
 2 1 
 2 2 
 2 I 6 
 2 O 7 
 
 1 II 2 
 
 1 8" 
 1 4 
 2< 
 
 3 
 1 0< 
 1 55 
 1 8< 
 1 11 
 2 O 2 
 2 O 8 
 2 1 
 2 O 9 
 2 
 1 10< 
 1 7 3 
 1 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 1 4 
 
 1 7 
 1 10 
 1 IP 
 1 11 
 2 
 
 1 11 s 
 1 10 
 1 9 
 1 53 
 8 
 
 63 
 
 1 I 7 
 
 1 6 
 1 8 3 
 1 9 s 
 110 
 1 IQi 
 1 9" 
 1 9 
 1 7 1 
 1 I 7 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 1 3' 
 1 6 5 
 
 1 73 
 1 7 s 
 1 7 5 
 1 7* 
 1 6* 
 1 3 
 75 
 
 S 3 
 1 O 2 
 1 2 
 1 3" 
 1 3 7 
 1 3 7 
 1 3* 
 1 2i 
 9 4 
 
 7.... 
 
 
 8.... 
 
 
 Kf... 
 
 
 10. ... 
 
 
 11.... 
 
 
 12.... 
 13.... 
 14.... 
 15.... 
 16.... 
 
 1 
 31 
 
 6* 
 11* 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 DIMENSIONS OF "FOREST AND STREAM'' CRUISER. 
 
 Length over all 13tt. 16ft. 
 
 waterline 9ft. 4 2 ia. lift. 7in. 
 
 Beam, extreme 3ft. 8in. 4ft. 6in. 
 
 Depth at gunwale 1ft. I 8 in. 1ft. 5in. 
 
 Sheer, bow 5"in. 7in. 
 
 stern lin. 2in. 
 
 Crown to deck 2in. Sin. 
 
 Fore side of stem to 
 
 Mast 2ft.5 4 in. 3ft. 
 
 Trunk, fore end 2ft. 8in. 3ft. Sin. 
 
 after end 6ft. 4in. 7ft. 9in. 
 
 Well, fore end 5ft. 8in. 6ft. llin. 
 
 after end 10ft. llin. 13ft. 6in. 
 
 Rowlocks 8ft. 7in. 10ft. 6in. 
 
 Rudder . lift. llin. 14ft. Sin. 
 
 Width of well 2ft. 6in. 3ft.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 225 
 
 The stations are 1ft. apart by both scales. In the 13ft. 
 boat the waterlines are If in. apart, and in the 16ft., 2in. 
 The scantling for the 13ft. boat would be, planking 
 iin., deck fin., timbers |X|in., spaced 9in. The larger 
 boat would have fin. planking, |in. deck, and timbers 
 IX^in., spaced lOin. The stern is framed as described for 
 the stem on page 182, two quarter pieces being cut to the 
 outline of deck and fastened to transom and upper end of 
 keel. A sternpost and scag are fitted after the boat is 
 taken from the stocks, and two bilge keels are screwed 
 outside. The centerboard is of yellow pine, edge-bolted 
 with iin. iron and weighted with lead. The deck is 
 covered with Goz. duck, laid in fresh paint. A half round 
 bead makes a finish around the gunwale and covers the 
 edge of the canvas. If a handsome little sailing boat is 
 desired, the hull above water will be painted black or 
 white, with a gold stripe as shown, the bottom being 
 coated with copper bronze. The boat shown was built by 
 J. MacWhirter, of West New Brighton, Staten Island. 
 The cost will vary according to size and finish, from $125 
 for a 13ft. boat with sail and galvanized fittings to $160 
 for a 16ft. boat finished with brass fittings. 
 
 Only three forms of sail are in common use in Ameri- 
 can waters, the boom and gaff, the leg of mutton or 
 sharpie, and the sprit, and of these the former is by far 
 the most common. In spite of its serious disadvantages, 
 and the fact that there are many better rigs, it has held 
 its own for many years, and is still as popular. Within a 
 half dozen years the canoe men have given to the world 
 a number of new rigs, either of new design or adopted 
 from abroad, and in this point of good and efficient sails, 
 these new sailors are far ahead of the older boat-sailing 
 experts with far more experience. Chief among the uevv- 
 fangled ideas of the canoeist is the balance lug, an Eng- 
 lish adaptation of a Chinese sail, now extensively used in 
 this country and applicable to all small boats. This sail 
 has been chosen for the ' 'Forest and Stream" cruiser, and 
 has worked very successfully.
 
 226 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 Of course the first requisite in going to windward is a 
 taut luff, as with it shaking nothing can be done. With 
 a badly cut and made iug sail this cannot well be had; 
 but a boom and gaff !-ail has this doubtful advantage, that 
 by means of two halliards it may be strained and stretched 
 into some kind of shape, though never what it should be. 
 With a properly cut sail this advantage in favor of the 
 boom and gaff disappears. 
 
 On a small boat one sail, if rigged so as to be easily 
 handled, is not only faster, but much more easily man- 
 aged than two, one being a jib. It is of course much 
 better to windward or free, while there are fewer lines. 
 The requisites for such a sail are different in a large and 
 in a small boat, as in the former there is much more room 
 to stand and work halliards and lines; there are usually 
 more to help, and the mast is always kept standing. In 
 a small boat the sail must hoist and lower easily, surely 
 and quickly; it must be readily removed from the mast 
 for stowage or in rowing, and it must be so placed as to 
 balance properly in connection with the keel or center- 
 board. In all of these particulars the sail shown is better 
 for sneakboxes, yachts' yawls, rowing and sailing boats, 
 and other small craft, than the boom and gaff. The 
 former has no mast rings to jam in hoisting and lower- 
 ing, as they are always liable to do; it can be quickly re- 
 moved from the mast; the latter is stepped much further 
 from the bow, keeping the weight aft and being easily 
 reached and unstepped, while before the wind the sail is 
 not all on one side of the mast and boat, but a large por- 
 tion is so placed as to help balance the outer end. 
 
 The sail shown is for the 16ft. cruiser, and is made of 
 yacht drill, (ioz., double high ted, bights running parallel 
 with the upper portion of the leach. The gear is rigged as 
 follows: The boom, 2in. greatest diameter, is 14ft. long, 
 to allow for stretch, and is laced to the foot of the sail, 
 the latter having about Sin. roach or rounding. A sing e 
 brass block (i) is lashed to the outer end for the sheet (/). 
 Just abreast of the mast is lashed a snaphook. As the
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 227 
 
 greatest strain on the boom is at this point, it is stiffened 
 by a fish batten (I I) of oak, |in. square at middle and 
 tapering at ends, the length being 2ft. This batten is 
 lushed to the boom by four lashings of fine twine, and adds 
 materially to the strength, while lighter and less clumsy 
 than an enlargement of the fore end of boom would be. 
 
 The head of the sail is cut with a round of 9in., lin. 
 per foot, for the following reason : A straight stick, like 
 a yard, is very elastic, even if of considerable size, and 
 will bend greatly at the ends. If, however, it be curved 
 in the first place, it then requires some force to bend it 
 further. The principle is well shown in the common 
 bow, which is easily strung, but then requires a heavy 
 pull to bend it. Another important advantage follows 
 tliis form; the yard or bow is first curved in a vertical 
 plane and held there by the sail. Now, with this tension 
 on it, it resists powerfully any lateral strain that would 
 throw the peak to leeward. This is aided by the peculiar 
 cut of the sail. The yard is brought far down the luff 
 and a large part of its length is forward of the mast. 
 When the luff is properly set up a very strong leverage is 
 put on the yard, holding the head well to windward. The 
 sail is approximately square in shape, as this form gives 
 the maximum area with a minimum average of spars, 
 mast, boom and yard. The clew is cut off, as will be seen, 
 as a shortening of the yard by a foot or so lessens the area 
 but little. Two battens are placed in the sail as shown, 
 with reef points, and a hand reef may be added, such as 
 has been described previously for canoes. It will be 
 simpler to run the hand reef to a cleat on the boom in- 
 stead of on deck, as a man cm stand up readily in a 
 large boat, and can reach the boom near the fore part, 
 while in a canoe he must keep his seat, consequently the 
 lines must lead to his hand, at the cost of simplicity. 
 The battens are Hxj at middle and fin. square at ends, 
 and are run in pockets in the sail. 
 
 The yard is H diameter at largest part, the middle third 
 of its length, and is rigged as follows: A rope strap (o) is
 
 228 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 worked on it, a fish batten (m m) being used as on the 
 boom. The eye of the strap is large enough to admit a 
 snaphook on halliard, or better yet, a snatchblock may 
 be employed. The halliard (a a) of 9-thread manilla rope, 
 leads through a sheave at masthead, thence through a 
 deck pulley near mast, and is belayed on one of two 
 cleats on deck at the fore end of well. In its upper end 
 a snap or gaff topsail hook is spliced, and on the mast is a 
 4in. galvanized iron or brass ring (n) bent into oval form, 
 3|x4fin. It must ba large enough to slide readily with- 
 out danger of jamming. The halliard is passed through 
 the strap on yard and then hooked to the ring. When 
 hauled taut the yard is always held in to the mast, 
 whether full sail or reefed is carried. 
 
 A lug sail can hardly be set taut by a halliard, but a 
 tack tackle must be employed, and a very powerful one 
 is rigged as follows: On the mast is another ring, to 
 which is lashed a brass block (d). On deck is a deck 
 pulley at port side of mast. The tack line (6) is made 
 fast to the deck abaft the pulley, the end is rove up and 
 forward through the block (d), thence down and aft 
 through deck pulley to cleat at fore end of well. In 
 setting sail the mast is stepped, hook on boom is snapped 
 into the eye of block (d), the two parrels on the bottom 
 are tied, the halliard is passed from aft forward through 
 the strap on yard and hooked to upper ring (n); then the 
 sail is hoisted as high as possible, after which, when the 
 halliard is belayed, the tack is hauled down until the sail 
 is parfectly flat. In reefing or lowering it is best to start 
 the tack first, then when the halliard is set up the tack 
 is hardened down again. 
 
 A toppinglif t (e) is thus fitted: The line is double, run- 
 ning from masthead down each side of sail and splicing 
 into one just below boom, leaving enough slack to lower 
 the latter. On the boom is a fairleader (fc) lashed fast, 
 and through this the toppinglift is rove, thence to a cleat 
 on boom. It may thus be easily reached for a pull at any 
 time, even with the boom hard off. In hoisting or reef-
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 229 
 
 ing the toppinglift should take the weight of the boom 
 always. 
 
 In removing the sail the end is cast off and the lift 
 remains on the mast. In setting sail the latter is first 
 dropped into the bight of the toppinglift, the fore end of 
 spars on deck at port side of mast. The lift is made 
 fast to cleat, raising the sail, the tack and halliard are 
 snapped on, and all is ready for hoisting. A jackstay, 
 from masthead, and made fast to mast about 1ft. above 
 deck, will be found very useful in holding up the fore 
 ends of spars and sail. 
 
 On each batten a parrel is made fast, to hold the sail to 
 the mast on the starboard tack. These are small lines about 
 2ift. long, the fore ends fast to the battens, while the 
 after ends are tied or hooked into rings lashed to the 
 battens. 
 
 The sheet in a small boat is always a trouble, wherever 
 it may be made fast it is always in the way. The plan 
 adopted in the present case is perhaps as good as any. 
 The sheet runs through a block (i) on boom and an eye 
 splice is worked at each end. On deck are three cleats, 
 one (g) just abaft the rudderhead, and the others (h) on 
 each side of well. When on tiie wind the after eye of 
 sheet is hooked over the after cleat (g) while the sheet is 
 held in the hand or belayed to one of the forward cleats; 
 or if desirable the eye may hook over one of the latter. 
 When the boom is off the sheet is cast off from the cleat 
 and its whole length is used, the eye at the end preventing 
 it from unreeving from the block. By this method a 
 very short sheet is required, while a good purchase may 
 be had when on the wind, and the sheet can always be 
 arranged to be out of the way of the sailor. 
 
 Fitted as described the sail will be found a very effec- 
 tive one, and once accustomed to it there is no difficulty 
 in handling it quickly, while it is much less troublesome 
 and cumbrous than a mainsail and jib. If for any 
 reason the latter must be used, it can be fitted on a stay, 
 the luff of the sail being cut down as much as possible,
 
 230 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 so as to allow room for the jib, but in almost all small 
 boats the single sail will be found best. 
 
 PLATES XLIL AND XLIII. SAILING AND CRUISING BOAT 
 
 "DELTA." 
 
 The many inquiries concerning sneakboxes, tuckups, 
 small sharpies and similar craft show that there is a gen- 
 eral demand for small sailing craft of good design, both 
 for ordinary pleasure sailing and for more or less extended 
 cruising. This demand may be largely ascribed to the 
 influence of canoeing, as it has arisen since the latter 
 sport became generally popular in this country. There 
 are many to-day who have given up the canoe after a fail- 
 trial, and many more who are ready to do so; but this is 
 not on accouat of any defect in the boat. The general 
 popularity of canoeing, together with the moderate ex- 
 pense, leads many novices into it, not because it is just 
 the form of sailing which they prefer, but because they 
 know of no other which would suit them better. After 
 a time some find the canoe too small to carry a party of 
 friends, others wish a boat exclusively for sailing in open 
 waters, and others, again, wish to carry an amount of 
 stores, guns and tackle, for which the canoe never was 
 intended. This proves nothing againtt the canoe, a boat 
 adapted to wider range of use than any other pleasure 
 craft; but when a man gets to this stage and begins to 
 long for a sneakbox or a sharpie, he is better out of a 
 canoe than in it, though there is no reason why the bond 
 between him and the man who still swears by a 15x^0 
 canoe should be severed; they are both cruisers and sailors 
 at bottom, though their craft may vary. 
 
 The boat shown in the accompanying plans, the Delta, 
 was planned by Dr. H. G. Piffard, former owner of the 
 sneakbox Bojum(Pl. XXXVIII.), and is an attempt to com- 
 bine the best qualities of several boats. The bottom of 
 the sneakbox is preserved, but with the bows of the ordi- 
 nary rowboat, as well as a higher side, while the over- 
 hang and rudder of the sharpie are added. The boat was
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 231 
 
 intended for pleasure sailing about Greenwich, Conn., to 
 carry half a dozen comfortably, and yet to be easily han- 
 dled by one. While a fair amount of speed was looked 
 for, the boat was not intended for racing, and if wanted 
 for such a purpose, to carry all the sail the model is ca- 
 pable of with a crew on the gunwale, a heavier construc- 
 tion would be advisable. For all ordinary work the boat 
 has proved amply strong, and the construction here given 
 can be followed in all details. 
 
 The question has often been asked, " Why not put a 
 boat bow on a sneak box?" and for all save hunting pur- 
 poses there seems to be no reason why it should not be 
 done, in fact this boat is a practical answer to the ques- 
 tion. The Delta was built in the spring of 188G, and thus 
 far has given perfect satisfaction. In order to meet the 
 wants of the single-hand cruisers the drawing is given 
 with two scales, by which a boat of 13ft. extreme length 
 may be built, as well as the orignal length of 18ft. The 
 former should make a remarkably good little craft, 
 larger, faster, abler and far handsomer than the sneak- 
 box, and little more costly. The bow is not so well 
 adapted for beaching, and the boat is too large and high 
 to serve as a blind or shooting battery, as a sneakbox 
 often does, but as far as sailing and general cruising are 
 concerned the odds are all in favor of the Delta as com- 
 pared with any form of '' box." The dimensions of the 
 two sizes are : 18ra< BOAT 13FT BOAT> 
 
 Length over all 18ft. 13ft. 
 
 l.w.l 10ft. lift. 6"in. 
 
 Beam, extreme 5ft. 4 in 3ft. 10'in. 
 
 Draft, about 8 in 
 
 Depth at gunwale, amidahip. . 1ft. 5 4 in 
 
 Sheer, bow Tin 
 
 siern 3 in 
 
 Crown of deck 
 
 Fore side of stem to 
 
 Trunk, fora end of slot 4ft. 9 in 
 
 iit'fer end of s-lot Oft. b in 
 
 Well, fore end of slot m. !) in 
 
 after end of slot 15ft. '> in 
 
 RddderstOCk, center Ifift. 8 in 
 
 Rowlocks, center lift. 7 in 
 
 6 in. 
 1ft. O s in. 
 6>ln. 
 2'in. 
 2 in. 
 
 3ft. r>2in. 
 
 6ft. 10 4 in. 
 
 Gft. 4 in. 
 lift. 4 5 in. 
 12ft. 0"m. 
 
 8ft. 4<m. 
 
 Width of well 4ft. 2ft. 10 4 in. 
 
 Distance of stations apart ... 2ft. 1ft. 5-in. 
 
 waterlines apart. 3 in. 2 3 ,,,in.
 
 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 TABLE OF OFFSETS EIGHTEEN-FOOT BOAT. 
 
 HEIGHTS. 
 
 HALF-BREADTHS. 
 
 Deck. 
 
 Keel. 
 
 Deck. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Keel. 
 
 2 O 4 
 1 10 
 
 1 7 5 
 1 6 2 
 1 5< 
 1 5< 
 1 5 s 
 1 6* 
 1 7 3 
 1 8< 
 
 
 O 1 
 1 I 5 
 
 2 4 7 
 2 7 4 
 2 8 
 2 7 
 2 4 5 
 1 11 
 
 O 1 
 
 i" 
 
 2 3 3 
 2 6* 
 2 6 7 
 2 5 8 
 2 2 
 1 3" 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 9 7 
 
 2 I 7 
 2 5i 
 2 5 7 
 2 4 5 
 1 II 7 
 
 8 2 
 1 4 6 
 
 2 3 
 2 3 6 
 2 1 
 
 1 O 5 
 1 6 
 1 11 
 
 2CO 
 1 93 
 
 7 s 
 
 1" 
 
 2' 
 
 2' 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 O 3 
 
 04 
 
 9 
 
 1 8 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 TABLE OF OFFSETS THIRTEEN- FOOT BOAT. 
 
 HEIGHTS. 
 
 HALF-BREADTHS. 
 
 Deck: 
 
 Keel. 
 
 Deck. 
 
 Nol. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Keel. 
 
 1 5" 
 1 3 8 
 1 2i 
 1 I 1 
 1 O 6 
 1 O 5 
 1 0" 
 1 I 2 
 1 I 7 
 12 
 
 
 O 1 
 9" 
 1 4 s 
 1 8 7 
 1 10- 
 1 II 2 
 1 lO^ 
 1 8 5 
 1 4 5 
 
 O 1 
 8" 
 1 3 
 1 7 8 
 1 10 
 1 10' 
 1 9 4 
 1 7 
 IP 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 72 
 .1 I 6 
 1 6 
 1 9 
 1 9 4 
 1 8* 
 1 5 2 
 
 6 
 1 
 1 5 
 
 1 7 4 
 1 8 
 1 6 5 
 1 I 7 
 
 43 
 9 2 
 
 1 1 
 1 46 
 1 53 
 
 1 3* 
 
 5 3 
 
 1 
 I 3 
 I 8 
 1 T 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 I 7 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 O 1 
 I 7 
 6 4 
 1 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 233 
 
 The scantling for the larger boat will be: Keel of oak, 
 in. thick and Sin. wide; stem of hackmatack or oak knee, 
 sided 2in.: sternpost, oak, Ix2in. ; scag, yellow pine, lin. 
 thick; plonking, cedar, $in., the garboard fin.; deck, 
 cedar or white pine, ^in. scant; coaming, oak, fin.; deck 
 beams, l^xli; ribs, lx|in., spaced 9in. A clamp, 2 X fin, 
 at middle, tapering to 1-Jxfin. at ends, will be run inside 
 from the bow to the bulkhead, being riveted through the 
 ribs and upper streak. It should be set so far below the 
 gunwale as to allow the deck beams to rest on it. A solid 
 chock should be fitted in place of a breast-hook at the 
 bow, below the deck and on top of these clamps. The 
 after bulkhead will be of lin. pine or spruce. The well 
 for the centerboard will have headiedges, & 6. of oak, 
 lX2in., with bed pieces, also of oak, 3|in. deep and liin. 
 thick, the sides above being of lin. clear white pine. 
 
 The keel is -Jin. extreme thickness, but it may be tapered, 
 beginning at station 5 and reducing it to ^in. at the after 
 end, so that it will bend more easily. It will be thicker 
 than the garboards, but when the planking is completed 
 the bottom will be planed down on the edges to meet the 
 latter. 
 
 The smaller boat will have keel fin. thick; stem, sided 
 l^in.; rib?, f Xfiti., spaced Sin.; planking, iin.; deck, fin.; 
 coaming, fin. scant; deck beams, lin. wide and IJin. deep; 
 headiedges, l^xfin.; bedpieces, 3xHin. In construc- 
 tion, the keel is first laid on the stocks and the stem is got 
 out and fitted. A mould is made for every station, that 
 for station 8 being carefully beveled and fitted, as it is to 
 remain permanently as a bulkhead. A mould is now 
 made of common stuff to fit the upward curve of the keel 
 from station 5 to the stern, and is set up on the stocks, 
 the keel being shored down into place. The moulds, 
 eight in number, including the bulkhead, will then be 
 set in place. Only half as many moulds would be used 
 by a regular builder, but the amateur will find the work 
 easier if he has plenty of moulds. The shape of the stern 
 is given by two pieces, //, termed quarter timbers. These
 
 234 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 need be only of lin. pine or spruce. They must be 
 marked out from the lines on the floor and carefully 
 beveled. They are screwed to the keel and also to the 
 bulkhead, being let into the latter. 
 
 A number of ribbands of oak or yellow pine, with clear 
 straight grain, are now run around the moulds, about six 
 on each side. The ribs are now planed up, steamed, and 
 bent into place, being held by a nail partly driven through 
 each ribband. Each rib is long enough to lap the full 
 width of the garboard, the two that go to make a frame 
 lying side by side where they cross. When the ribs are 
 all in and fastened permanently to the keel and tempor- 
 arily to the ribbands, the lower ribband on each side is 
 taken off, the garboard got out and set. The next ribband 
 is then removed and another plank is cet and so until the 
 boat is planked. The piece a is of oak, IJin. thick, set 
 down on the keel to stiffen it and form a mast step. It 
 should be put in place before the ribs go in, the latter being 
 jogged in and well fastened to it. The clamps should be 
 put in before the frame is taken from the stocks, the deck 
 beams being also fitted. 
 
 The slot for the trunk should never be cut until the last 
 thing, but when the planking is completed, two mortises 
 are cut for the headledges, the two bed pieces are got out 
 and fastened to them with through rivets, the boat is 
 taken from the stocks and the trunk put in, screws being 
 driven through the keel into the bed pieces. The sides 
 of white pine are then put on, after which the deck 
 beams, previously fitted, will be fastened. They should 
 run across the trunk, being jogged down so that the deck 
 will close the top of the trunk tightly. The mortise for 
 the sternpost is next cut, the post put in and fastened to 
 the bulkhead, then the scag is cut and fitted, being fast- 
 ened through with screws from inside of keel. To make 
 a tight casing for the rudderstock, a piece of pine 3^in. 
 square, e, is fitted to the keel, reaching to under side of 
 deck, being set in whitelead and well screwed to make a 
 watertight joint. A hole is then bored for the iron rud-
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 235 
 
 derstock. Ledges about 3in. deep run across the boat to 
 carry the floor boards, and also to stiffen the bottom, for 
 which purpose they should be well riveted through the 
 planking. 
 
 The decks are supported along the well by knees c c c, 
 three or more on each side, forming lockers. One or 
 more of these may be fitted with doors as shown. After 
 the boat is taken from the stocks the slot for the center- 
 board is cut in the keel. The rudderstock is shown 
 in detail, the shank of round iron, in. with two flat 
 pieces each Ix^in. welded to it, the head being squared 
 for a tiller. The blade of the rudder is of oak, lin. thick 
 where it is let into the stock, but tapering to a fine edge 
 forward and aft. On deck there should be a brass plate, 
 while a pin through the stock prevents it from falling. 
 A strip of iron |x^ may be run from the centerboard 
 slot aft to the rudder, with a pin up into the center of 
 the latter, as shown. This will serve the double purpose 
 of stiffening and protecting the scag and rudder, and also 
 of preventing the fouling of the latter by weeds and 
 lines. The deck should be covered with light drill, 6oz. 
 laid in white paint. All fastenings should be of copper 
 except where brass screws are used. The sizes given for 
 planking and decks are for planed stuff , and in all cases 
 are thick enough to allow of planing off after caulking, 
 which will always be necessary. The board shown is 
 large enough for all sailing, and in the smaller boat, if 
 room is an object, it might bs shortened by Gin. on the after 
 end. The size of cockpit may be varied according to the 
 boat; for a large party it may run further forward on 
 each side of the trunk, but for rough water and cruising 
 the size sho vn will answer very well. The mortise for 
 the mast step may be cut in the piece a. The forward 
 deck should be strengthened by a piece fin. thick and G 
 to Tin. wide, running from stem to trunk under the deck 
 beams and riveted through beams and deck plank. 
 Where the mast goes through the space between, the two 
 should be filled in solid.
 
 236 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 The sail shown in Plate XLI. is well adapted for the 
 smaller boat and will be none too large, but in Plate 
 XL/IH. two other suitable rigs are shown, the scales given 
 being adaptable to either size of boat. Delta was rigged 
 with a single large lug of about 150ft., which she carried 
 easily without ballast in ordinary weather. The lug was 
 cut with very little round to the head and the yard was 
 straight. There were no battens in the sail, but two rows 
 of reef points. The sheet was fast to an eye bolt on the 
 quarter and led through a block on the boom, and then 
 under a thumb cleat on the side of coaming, or through a 
 snatch block on the floor of the boat. Under this rig the 
 boat handles very satisfactorily for singlehaad sailing, 
 but some ballast would be needed if no passengers were 
 carried. The dotted lines show the size of a cat rig, the 
 mast being stepped further forward. The lug is the 
 better of the two, but is more difficult to rig, and many 
 will prefer the cat simply because they are used to it and 
 unfamiliar with the other. The main and niizen rig in 
 the second drawing is smaller, and better adapted for 
 cruising and sailing alone. The details of the rigging are 
 the same as in the preceding sail plan. The sails here 
 shown are of the form usually carried on canoes and small 
 boats, but a flatter and more effective sail can be had by 
 making the yard longer, carrying it down to the batten, 
 rounding the head much more than is shown, and throw- 
 ing a little more of the yard forward of the mast, as in 
 the Cruiser's sail. Such sails require to be carefully 
 rigged, and more or less trial is always needed to find the 
 best position for halliard and tack on the spars, but when 
 once complete they are good enough to fully repay the 
 trouble. The dimensions of the single lug are as follows, 
 the mast in the plan being shown forward of its proper 
 position, which is given in the table: 
 
 18FT. BOAT. 1SFT. BOAT. 
 
 Mast, from stem 4ft. 2ft. 9in. 
 
 above deck 15ft. 10ft. lOin. 
 
 diameter at deck 3Jin. 3%in.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 287 
 
 18FT. BOAT. 13iT. BOAT. 
 
 Boom 14ft. 'Jin. 10ft. Gin. 
 
 diameter 2in. l^in. 
 
 Yard 10ft. Gin. 7ft. Tin. 
 
 diameter !J4in. IJ^in. 
 
 Foot of sail 14ft. 10ft. lin. 
 
 Luff 9ft. Gin. 6ft. lOJ^in. 
 
 Head 9ft. 9in. 7ft. 
 
 Leech 19ft. 13ft. 8in. 
 
 Tack to peak 18ft. Gin. 13ft. 4in. 
 
 Clew to throat 16ft. Gin. lift. llin. 
 
 Area 155sq. ft. 80sq. ft. 
 
 The dimensions of the main and mizen rigs are: 
 
 18FT. BOAT. 13FT. BOAT. 
 
 Main. 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 Main, from stem 2 00 
 
 above deck 12 06 
 
 diameter at dock . . . 03 
 
 Boomkin, outboard 
 
 Boom 13 02 
 
 diameter 
 
 Yard 9 00 
 
 diameter 01^ 
 
 Foot 11 06 
 
 Luff 06 
 
 Head 9 00 
 
 Leech 14 08 
 
 Tack to peak 15 00 
 
 Clew to throat 12 06 
 
 Area 90sq.f t. 
 
 The drawings show the size of sails when stretched on 
 the spars after a little use. They must be cut a little 
 smaller than this in making, and after a season they will 
 have stretched to the full size of the spars shown. 
 
 Main. 
 
 Mizen. 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 1 06 
 
 12 03 
 
 9 00 
 
 5 00 
 
 02J4 
 
 01J6 
 
 
 1 03 
 
 8 10 
 
 4 09 
 
 01J4 
 
 01 
 
 7 00 
 
 3 10 
 
 OIK 
 
 00% 
 
 8 04 
 
 4 04 
 
 4 09 
 
 2 07 
 
 6 06 
 
 3 06 
 
 10 06 
 
 5 06 
 
 10 10 
 
 5 09 
 
 9 00 
 
 4 09 
 
 49sq.ft 
 
 llsq.ft. 
 
 PLATE XLIV. THE DELAWARE RIVER DUCKER. 
 
 Along the Delaware these boats are much used for row- 
 ing and sailing generally, gunning and fishing, but especi- 
 ally for reedbird shooting in the marshes below Philadel- 
 phia. The flat floor allows them to be poled far up on the
 
 238 
 
 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 marshes where there is more mud than -water, and they 
 are often propelled by a long pole with three prongs on 
 the lower end, for poling on muddy bottoms. There is 
 no fixed thwart, but a movable box is used, so that the 
 gunner may sit in the fore end and his assistant may use 
 the pole in the after end; the latter may sit forward and 
 row while the gunner occupies the after seat; cr the boat 
 may be backed down by the oarsman in the after seat, 
 the gunner sitting on the box in the bow. Both ends of 
 the boat are exactly alike, the only difference being in 
 the seat, rowlocks and coaming. 
 
 The dimensions are: Length, loft.; beam, 3ft. lOin. ; 
 depth, 13in.; sheer, Sin. The stem and stern are sided 
 l^in., keel sided Gin. amidships and moulded lin. ; plank- 
 ing, $in. ; timbers, fin. x-iV n -> deck, $in. ; flooring, ^in. 
 
 TABLE OF OFFS2TS DELAWARE RTVZR DUCKEH. 
 
 1 
 
 Deck 
 
 
 HALF 
 
 -BREAD- 
 
 CHS. 
 
 
 Stations.; 
 
 Height. 
 
 Deck. 
 
 12in. | 
 
 9in. 
 
 Gin. 
 
 3.n. 
 
 
 21 2 
 
 O 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 18* 
 
 10 
 
 i 
 7 
 
 G> 
 
 4 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 15 2 
 
 18 2 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 13 6 
 
 22 
 
 21* 
 
 
 
 17 4 
 
 13 
 
 
 13 
 
 23 
 
 23 
 
 21" 
 
 19< 
 
 15 s 
 
 6 
 
 13 5 
 
 22 
 
 2P 
 
 20 
 
 17 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 15 2 
 
 18* 
 
 ie 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 75 
 
 8 . .. 
 
 18< 
 
 10 
 
 7" 
 
 C l 
 
 i 2 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 <>jj 
 
 O 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 The stations are spaced 2ft. apart, measuring each way from 
 midship section, and the water-lines arc 3in. apart. 
 
 Along the bottom of keel are two wooden runners, A A, 
 X|in. and shod with half-round iron. It will be noticed 
 that the stem and stern each project the same distance
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 239 
 
 below the planking, and the runners shown by dotted 
 lines in the breadth plan project forward of the stem and 
 aft of the stern, as at A A, B B. The floor boards are 
 screwed to two battens, which are on top of them, so as 
 to allow the boards to lie close to the bottom of the boat. 
 They form one piece only, that may be easily lifted out. 
 The brass rowlocks are accurately turned and fitted, with 
 long shanks, so as to be nearly noiseless. The side decks 
 are supported by three iron knees on each side. 
 
 The ducker carries one boom and gaff sail; the usual 
 area for a boat of this size being 112sq. ft., the racing 
 rig running up to 150sq. ft. The smaller sail would have 
 15ft. on foot, 7ft. Gin. luff, 16ft. Gin. leech, and 7ft. Gin. 
 head, the mast being stepped 2ft. from stem. 
 
 PLATES XLV. AND XL VI. DELAWARE RIVEB TUCKUP. 
 The Delaware River in the vicinity of Philadelphia is 
 the home of three special classes of sailing boats, the 
 hiker, the tuckup and the ducker, all three being peculiar 
 to the locality and used so far as we know on no other 
 waters than the middle Delaware and lower Schuylkill. 
 All are cat rigged, but differ in size, the hiker being the 
 largest, a small half open catboat, with about 4ft. Sin. beam 
 for 15ft. length, same proportion for larger sizes; the 
 tuckup being a few inches narrower and not quite so deep, 
 both with square sterns, while the ducker is a double- 
 ended shooting skiff, also fitted for sailing. The plans 
 show a very good example of the present fourth class 
 tuckup, the Priscilla, built in 1887 for Mr. Edward Stan- 
 ley, of Bridgeport, Pa., by James Wignall, of Philadel- 
 phia. The lines were carefully plotted from offsets 
 taken by Mr. E. A. Leopold, of Norristown, Pa., the boat 
 being enrolled in the Montgomery Sailing Club of that 
 place and sailing in all the races. The peculiar name 
 "tuckup" is derived from the fact that in building the 
 flat keel is not carried out straight from the stem to 
 sternpost, along the finely dotted line B, as would be the
 
 340 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 case in most catboats of any size, but it tarns or "tucks" 
 up, in builder's parlance, to the height of the waterline, 
 as in the Delta, 'Forest and Stream" cruiser, and the 
 sneakbox; a separate scag being added below the keel. 
 The word came into general use from the construction 
 and is now applied solely to such a boat as is here shown. 
 The two boats here described, Pri-cilla and Igidious, 
 are owned on the Schuylkill about fifteen miles from 
 Philadelphia, and sail in the races, but the home of the 
 craft is in the Kensington district of Philadelphia, near 
 the famous Cramp's shipyard. Here there are several 
 long wharves, lined on each side with rows of two-story 
 boat houses, twenty to thirty in a row. In these houses 
 are stored hundred of duckers and tuckups, while the 
 upper story of each is fitted up more or less comfortably 
 for the use of the crews; gunning, fishing and camping 
 outfits, with sails and gear, being kept there. On Sun- 
 days in particular the wharves and houses are crowded, 
 the boats are off for short cruises up or down the river, 
 or races are sailed between the recognized cracks, han- 
 dled by old and skillful captains and trained crews. The 
 following tables give very fully the details of the boats : 
 
 DIMENSIONS AJTD ELEMENTS OF TUCKTJPS. 
 
 Priscilla. Igidious. 
 
 Length over all 15 03 15 04* 
 
 l.w.l 1411 
 
 Beam, extreme 4 03' 4 05 s 
 
 l.w.1 307 308 
 
 Draft, bow 3 
 
 stern 10 
 
 Depth, amidship 1 05* 104 s 
 
 Sheer,bow 6 7 
 
 stern 6 5 a 
 
 Displacement to l.w.l., Ibs 716 .... 
 
 to 7in. level line. Ibs.. 760 .... 
 
 per inch immersion, Ibs. 175 .... 
 
 Area l.w. plane, sq. f t 43 52 
 
 lateral plane 8 00 .... 
 
 centerboard 2 05 .... 
 
 rudder Z 07 
 
 Total... ....1303
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 
 
 241 
 
 1 00 
 
 704 
 304 
 
 .^-v 
 V** 
 1500 '"' ~ 
 
 3 
 1700 
 
 
 1000 
 
 
 
 206 
 
 19x38 
 
 16 OB 
 
 1000 
 
 000 
 2000 
 1900 
 18 06 
 
 C.L.R. abaft fore end l.w.l. with board. 9 00 
 C.E. abaft fore end l.w.l ................. 827 
 
 Station to mast center ................ 1 00 
 
 slot in keel.., j 04 
 
 point of coaming ........... 304 
 
 fore thwart ................. 602 
 
 after thwart ............... 993 
 
 Mast, deck to truck .................... Id 00 
 
 diameter at deck ................ 3 2 
 
 truck ............... I 6 
 
 Boom ................................... 1806 
 
 diameter ......................... I 7 
 
 Gaff .................................... 1000 
 
 diameter .......................... 1 s 
 
 Bowsprit, outboard ................... 11 11 
 
 Centerboard ................................. 
 
 Mainsail, foot .......................... 1800 
 
 luff ............................ 11 08 
 
 head .......................... 9 04 
 
 leech.. ........................ 3010 
 
 tack to peak ................. 1910 
 
 clewto thwart ............... 20 02 
 
 Area, sq. ft ............................... 198 
 
 Priscilla has a keel sided 5Hjin. at rabhet, O^in. inside, lin. thick, 
 stem and sternpost sided lin., transom %in. thick, ribs lx%in., 
 spaced 9in., nails (copper riveted over burrs) spaced 3in. Plank- 
 ing, lapstrake, %in., deck J^in., centerboard 9in. oak, coaming 
 Hji^ oak, SJ^in. high at point, 9in. at midships and %m. at stern. 
 Hound of deck, IJ^in. Wearing strips, A A, oak, 56in.X 7 i 6 in., 
 spaced 6in. apart. Thwarts 7in. wide, lOin. above bottom of keel; 
 trunk llin. high. 
 
 Ingidious is 3ft. 2}<jin. wide across stern, with skag 3ft. 4in. long 
 and 9J^in. deep; coaming 4}$n. high at point, lin. from midships 
 to tern. Kr<l 7 : '^in. extreme width; round of deck, lJ4in,; mast 
 step of iron, braced with two rods with turnbuckles. Ribs and 
 fastenings as in Priscilla. Planking %\n. 
 
 The boats are all lapstrake, very carefully built and 
 oopper-fastened, and are decked as shown, with about 
 7|in. waterways, the well extending to the transom. The 
 board is of the dagger pattern, often being much larger 
 than shown, and the rudder is of the familiar barn door 
 pattern , of great length, with tiller to match. The boards 
 are always of wood, but at Norristown steel plates have 
 lately been introduced, an innovation not approved of by
 
 242 
 
 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 the Philadelphia experts. Five metal boards of 501bs. down, 
 one a brass board, are now in use at Norristown. The sail- 
 in^TUles on the Delaware allow 4ft. 6in. beam for a 15ft. 
 T>oat with five rnen all told, while the sail is limited to 56 
 
 TABLE OF OFFSETS TUCKUP PKI8CILLA. 
 
 Stations. 
 
 HEIGHTS. 
 
 HALF-BHEADTHS. 
 
 Deck. 
 
 Rabbet 
 
 Deck 
 
 12m. 
 
 Sin. 
 
 Gin. 4in. 
 
 2in. 
 
 Rab- 
 bet. 
 
 o 
 
 1 9 3 
 1 7 5 
 1 6 2 
 1 5 
 1 4* 
 1 3" 
 1 S 
 
 
 0< 
 
 7 6 
 1 I 2 
 
 1 5 3 
 1 8* 
 
 (H 
 5 
 9' 
 1 2 s 
 1 6> 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 1* 
 
 O 3 
 
 3" 
 7 1 
 11" 
 1 3 
 
 2 
 5 
 9" 
 1 I 7 
 
 V 
 
 4 
 6 
 9 6 
 
 
 2 1 
 3 7 
 6 
 8> 
 10 
 ll a 
 U 6 
 10 7 
 9i 
 6 
 4 2 
 I 5 
 
 0* 
 0* 
 1< 
 P 
 2 
 2 s 
 3* 
 2 
 2* 
 2 s 
 2i 
 1 
 l a 
 O 7 
 0* 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 
 5 
 6 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 O 7 
 2 I 3 
 2 I 3 
 2 O 7 
 2 O 2 
 1 II 3 
 1 9' 
 1 8" 
 1 5 6 
 
 1 10' 
 2 
 2 5< 
 2 O 4 
 1 11' 
 1 10 6 
 1 8 4 
 1 5* 
 1 1' 
 5 4 
 
 1 8< 
 1 9 7 
 1 10 4 
 1 102 
 1 9" 
 1 7 s 
 1 4 
 11 
 6 3 
 O 4 
 
 1 6 6 
 1 8 
 1 8 4 
 1 8 3 
 1 7" 
 1 4 
 1 1 
 8" 
 3 1 
 
 1 3 3 
 1 4 8 
 1 5 2 
 1 4* 
 1 3 3 
 1 0* 
 8 6 
 45 
 
 V> 
 
 1 
 8 
 9 
 10 
 11 
 12 
 13 
 14 
 15 
 
 13" 
 1 3 3 
 13 5 
 1 4 
 1 4 5 
 1 5 5 
 16 
 1 8 
 1 93 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 I 4 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 linear feet of bolt rope when new, giving about 180ft. 
 area. This wiU give 15ft. on foot, 13ft. luff, 8ft. b^ad, 
 and 21ft. leech. In the M. S. C. this rule is not used, the 
 boats being classed together with a penalty for excess of 
 sail area over that allowed. The limit is 165ft. for tuckups, 
 110ft. for duckers and 80ft. for canoes and small boats, the 
 tuckups allowing the others five minutes over a five mile
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 243 
 
 course. Any boat may increase her sail by allowing 2 
 seconds per foot per rnile, and allowances are figured 
 at the start, so that the first boat home wins. Five men are 
 allowed to the tuckups and two for the duckers, but thus 
 far a crew of three seems to be the best for the former. 
 
 PLATE XLVIL " GRACIE," OPEN SAILING BOAT. 
 
 Gracie is a rowboat 12ft. long and 34in. beam, de- 
 signed and built by her owner, an amateur and a novice 
 in boat building, Mr. E. A. Leopold of Norristown, Pa. 
 The only guide, both in designing and building, was the 
 first edition of "Canoe and -Boat Building for Ama- 
 teurs," and the boat was intended only for rowing and 
 fishing on the Schuylkill River, a narrow and winding 
 stream with very squally and variable winds, running 
 through Norristown, a short distance from Philadelphia. 
 The boat is a lapstreak, weighing GOlbs. when first com- 
 pleted, with a keel lin. square, and fitted up with Allen's 
 bow-facing oars. During the first year, 1885, she was 
 used solely for pleasure ro wing, duck shooting and fish- 
 ing, and light enough to be handled conveniently. The 
 next season a small sail was added, with several styles of 
 leeboards, but the latter were in turn discarded for a va- 
 riety of weather grip, while the sail grew to 59ft., some 
 very fair sailing being done toward the latter part of the 
 season. In 1887 the sail was increased to 85ft., as shown, 
 while the weather grip was improved after many trials. 
 
 Thus rigged Gracie has raced against some fast boats 
 of much greater size and power, and sailed by full pro- 
 fessional crews, she sailing singlehanded and without 
 ballast. She started thirteen times and won three firsts 
 and three seconds in 1887, a very good record when the 
 relative sizes and the reputation of the tuckups are con- 
 sidered. Of course she has had a good allowance, but it 
 is hard to say whether it is too much all things considered. 
 At first the crew of one sat en the floor, then two cushions
 
 244 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 were added, replaced a little later by a seat Sin. below 
 gunwale, which seemed very high at first. It was soon 
 evident that the crew could sit far out to windward, and 
 with more comfort, while the pad, sewn in the back of 
 the coat, to protect the backbone when sitting inside, 
 was discarded. The next move was to place a seat, canoe 
 fashion, across the gunwale, a very great improvement, 
 as a better command of the boat is obtained with less 
 effort. In sailing with but two sails the area was too 
 small for racing, while the balance was bad, the boat 
 constantly luffing. The addition of a jib cured both 
 faults, the boat being faster except when free, and steer- 
 ing to perfection. In every puff she will eat herself to 
 windward without a touch of the tiller, only a slight 
 motion of the body forward or aft being necessary to luff 
 her up or throw her head off. It is to this that she owes 
 much of her gain, as little steering with the rudder is 
 needed to make her work well in the constantly varying 
 puffs that rush down from the hills in all directions. She 
 is sailed without a fly, such as is used by most of the other 
 boats, as it is very deceptive. In running free or in tack- 
 ing the rudder is used, but most of the steering is done by 
 the body only. The boat's worst point of sailing is before 
 the wind, her best reaching. She receives about 9min. 
 in five miles from boats loft. X 14ft. 6in., and sailed by 
 four or five men hanging out to windward by means of 
 ropes. The dimensions of Gracie are as follows: 
 
 Length extreme 12ft. 
 
 Beam 2ft. lOin. 
 
 Depth, amidships 1ft. 
 
 at ends 1ft. Sin. 
 
 Mainmast, from stem 1ft. 
 
 above deck 5ft. lOin. 
 
 diameter, deck . . .IJ^in., head lJ4in. 
 
 Main boom 8ft. Sin. 
 
 diameter l%in. 
 
 Yard 12ft. 4in. 
 
 diameter IJ^in. and %in. 
 
 Batten 8ft. Sin. 
 
 Mizenmast, above deck 8ft. 9in.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 245 
 
 Mizenmast, diameter l^in. and 9>n- 
 
 from stem Oft. Tin. 
 
 Mizen boom 5ft. Sin. 
 
 Batten 41't. lOin. 
 
 Bowsprit outboard 4ft. 6J4in. 
 
 Jib, or luff 7ft. 6in. 
 
 foot and leech, each 5ft. Sin. 
 
 The jib halliard and downhaul are in one length, the 
 bight belayed to a cleat on the port side, a small club is 
 laced to the foot of the jib. The mainmast and boom are 
 of bamboo, mainboom yellow pine, mizenmast of white 
 pine. The mainsail is fitted to reef to a lateen by means 
 of a jaw at B 011 the boom, so placed that no change of 
 the halliard is necessary. The batten is fitted with cleats, 
 C C C C, of spring brass, with a single reef point oppo- 
 site each. The boom is lifted, a reef point nia.de fast by 
 one turn about the cleat, then the boom is shifted until 
 the second jaw engages the mast. The other reef points 
 may then be made fast at leisure, though in a short squall 
 the jib is dropped, the mainboom made fast by but one 
 reef point, and shifted to set by the inner jaw. The 
 mizen is never reefed. In making the sails the spars 
 were bent to position on the floor and the shape marked, 
 then the stuff, a single width of sheeting, was cut and 
 sewn. The weather grip, adopted after many experi- 
 ments, is 3ft. Tin. on top, 2ft. on bottom and l^in. deep, 
 b<nng immersed lOin. The top edge is fin. thick, bottom 
 iiu. The distance from side is 2ft. 4in. atd the immersed 
 area 29osq. in. A keel has also been added, 4in. deep in 
 all, of which the lower half is lead, 251bs. The area of 
 keel is 33osq. in. , or with grip G30sq. in. The grip is hung 
 from the sockets for the rowlocks by two cross pieces of 
 wood in the form of an X, riveted where they cross and 
 also to the top of the grip. The boat does not point as 
 close as some of her competitors, but goes enough faster 
 to make up for it, making sometimes five tacks to their 
 four. The table of offsets is as follows, both ends being 
 exactly alike:
 
 246 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 TABLE OF OFFSETS OPEN SAILING BOAT GHACIE. 
 
 Stations. 
 
 Deck, 
 Height. 
 
 HALF-BREADTHS. 
 
 Deck. I No. 1. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Oand 12 
 
 1 8 
 1 53 
 1 33 
 1 2 
 1 1 
 1 O 2 
 1 
 
 0* 
 5* 
 9 6 
 1 O 8 
 1 3 
 1 43 
 1 5 
 
 O 1 
 3 2 
 
 72 
 
 II 2 
 1 2> 
 1 4 
 1 4 8 
 
 O 1 
 2< 
 6 
 10 
 1 I 2 
 1 3 2 
 1 4 1 
 
 
 
 land 11 
 
 I 6 
 4 5 
 8 2 
 11 
 1 2 2 
 1 3 
 
 0' 
 2 5 
 5 2 
 8" 
 II 7 
 1 
 
 2 and 10 
 
 Sand 9 
 
 4 and 8 
 
 6 and 7 
 
 6 
 
 
 In the winter 1887-8 a plate board of thin steel was 
 added, the rig was changed to a single lug of 86ft., 
 rigged as in Plate XLVIL, and a light horizontal wheel 
 was fitted directly on the rudder head, in place of the 
 tiller, all these changes being for the better. 
 
 PLATE XL VIII. "Cuo," HALF DECKED SAILING BOAT. 
 
 Toronto Bay, on Lake Ontario, is the home of a fleet of 
 small boats, and much racing is done there through the 
 season. Clio was the champion in 1887 and is a good 
 example of her class. She is of pine, lapstreak, of -, & ti in. 
 plank, and is 16ft. long, 3ft. Sin. beam, and decked for 
 4ft. 6in. forward, 2ft. aft. and with waterways of 4 to 
 6in., the coaming being Sin. high. The leading dimen- 
 sions are: 
 
 Mast, deck to head 16ft. 
 
 from stem 3ft. 
 
 diameter, deck 5in. head lin. 
 
 Bowsprit, outboard 5ft. 6in. 
 
 Boom 18ft. 
 
 Yard 10ft. 6in. 
 
 Spinaker boom 15ft. 
 
 hoist 14ft.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 247 
 
 Jib, luff 14ft. 
 
 foot 8ft. 
 
 leech 18ft. 
 
 area, square feet 49 
 
 Mainsail, foot 17ft. 6in. 
 
 luff 10ft. 
 
 head 10ft. 
 
 leech 19ft. 9in. 
 
 tack to peak 19ft. Gin. 
 
 clew to throat 19ft. 6in. 
 
 area, squaie feet 190 
 
 The sails are of light drill, the roping on leech only ex- 
 tending as high as the reefs. The centerboaad is of i^in. 
 iron, weighing 851bs., 4ft. long and 3ft. 8in. deep. It is 
 sharpened on the forward edge. The boat is double- 
 ended, so the main sheet works on a high traveler over 
 the tiller. 
 
 PLATE XLIX. SMALL DINGEYS. 
 
 The larger boat shown in Plate XLIX. is a cross between 
 a canoe and a sneakbox, intended as a tender to a small 
 yacht, the object being to obtain something narrow enough 
 to fit into the yacht's gangway, ready for use at all times 
 and also stiff and safe. The features of this boat are a 
 "shovel nose" to facilitate towing when preferred, rather 
 small beam, well held fore and aft, long flat floor, quick 
 bilge and high side with a li^ht deck and coaming in 
 canoe fashion. The shape of the moulds at three cross 
 sections are shown by the dotted lines. She is Oft. long, 
 2ft. wide, 1ft. deep in center with a sheer of 2in., and 
 supplied with an iron centerboard and triangular sail 7ft. 
 on foot, head and leech. The boai'd is of Jin. boiler iron 
 with 1ft. vertical drop. The sail is pet upon a short stump 
 pole after the plan of the Lord Ross lateen for canoes. 
 
 A. boat of the ordinary style, but extremely serviceable, 
 isalsoshovvn in the diagram?. From these it will be seen 
 she possesses great width, with long, flat floor and high
 
 348 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 sides, tumbling home at the stern and along the side. This 
 tender is remarkable for the load she carries and for her 
 stiffness, which makes her a more reliable aud useful adjunct 
 than many dingeys twice the length. She is only 6ft. 6in. 
 long over all, with an extreme beam of 3ft. l^in. Her fault 
 is towing heavily when sailing fast, and the difficulty of 
 stowing on deck on account of her width. 
 
 PLATE L. SPORTING BOATS. 
 
 The larger drawing represents a boat for ducking and 
 shooting, thus described by her builder : 
 
 She shows but little above the water, draws but little, and 
 so can be used in shoal water, can easily be transformed into 
 a capital blind by using a little grass, weed, or brush on the 
 deck. She is not easily turned over, and a person can shoot 
 from any position in her, which he cannot do in a canoe. I 
 know this from experience, as I have spent many a day in 
 one. 
 
 In the first place, to get frames or ribs lay out on the 
 floor a cross section both ways of the boat, full size; lay off 
 the ribs or frames a foot apart the whole length, and taking 
 the measure of each ons on the horizontal plan gives you 
 the length, and in the perpendicular section the breadth. 
 Then on the ends leave the width of the sides, which in my 
 boat is only 12^in. Then take a strip of thin stuff, and from 
 a dot that you make for the width on each side of the center 
 spring the strip to the width of sides at each end, top and 
 bottom, and you have the curves for the ribs. Saw out the 
 center as far as the cockpit comes, and you have the forms. 
 Stay them to the floor, and put on the bottom first. 
 
 Material for frames and ribs iin. oak, also for the sides, 
 which are only Hin. wide. Screw the sides to the ribs, 
 stem and sternpost with in. No. 6 wire brass screws. It 
 is now ready for the bottom. Use -, a 6 in. oak ripped to Gin. 
 in width, and where each joint comes use a batten -fa by 
 l|in., clinched through about l|in. apart with brass 
 escutcheon pins, driving them through on the face of a 
 hammer or piece of iron.
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 249 
 
 Use plenty of white lead on the battens and on the edge 
 of the sides. Fasten the covering to the ribs and sides with 
 fin. No. 1 wire screws and escutcheon pins. 
 
 For floor to the cockpit use fin. pine, and the washboards 
 to cockpit fin. black walnut worked up and down and 
 screwed to a strip let into the top of the frames, and at the 
 bottom by strips put between the ribs. The midship section 
 (No. 3) shows it in detail. 
 
 Amount of material: about 100ft. of -^-in. oak, 20ft. of |in. 
 oak, enough &\n. oak for stem, sternpost and keel, 12ft. of 
 fin. pine for floor, and enough material for the washboards, 
 which can be black walnut, pine, ouk, or whatever a person 
 chooses, 1 gross of |in. No. 6 wire brass scews, 3 gross of 
 fin. No. 1 wire brass screws, and 8oz. of stout brass 
 escutcheon pins ^iii long. This is all that is required but 
 paint. 
 
 I shall rig my boat to sail, using two legs of mutton sails, 
 sharpie rig, and also to row. The oarlocks will want to be 
 placed on the outside and raised up high enough to clear the 
 washboards, \vhiuh can be done by a block or an iron, the 
 boat being so wide it can be used with quite a long oar, and 
 by a good oarsman it can be sent along very fast. 
 
 The smaller boat is for a similar purpose, but is built of 
 canvas, as follows: The ribs and long strips are made of oak 
 by scant iu. ; the ribs are placed oin. apart, ard there arc 
 sixlocg strips on each side, and two more 8ft. long to till up 
 the larger space in the middle. Where each gtrip and rib 
 cross they are clinched together with a copper nail. The 
 gunwale strips are square, find each rib is let into them and 
 nailed with two copper nails. Bring the canvas over the 
 dado iu the stem and stern, and put in a spline; then put on 
 a keel made of oak outside of the canvas and screw it to the 
 center keelson. The cockpit is made of half-inch black wal- 
 nut screwed to the gunwale strips, and has a piece by Un- 
 screwed on top on the sides and back, so that it leaves |in. 
 projection. In front use a piece |in. by 3in. 
 
 The seat is made of two|iu. pine pieces, Sin. wide, screwed 
 to the ribs, and the top it rabbeted ix-J-, and the top is made of
 
 250 PROGRESS OF CANOEING. 
 
 2in. by ^in. pine strips placed lin. apart and cleated to- 
 gether. 
 
 The deck is raised lin. in center of boat, so that it sheds 
 the water, both sideways and endways. 
 
 Bring the canvas around the boat and nail it on top of 
 gunwale, and the deck the same, and then put a neat in. 
 half-round moulding on top of the tacks, so that it makes 
 a neat job.
 
 FLAT-BOTTOMED BOATS. 
 
 npO BUILD a framed boat with a round bottom requires 
 -*~ time, skilled labor and good material, but there are 
 many cases where a boat is desired for temporary use, for 
 hard work where a light boat would soon be destroyed, or 
 in a hurry, in which cases beauty, light weight and speed are 
 of little importance, the requisites being carrying capacity, 
 cheapness, and a saving of time. In such cases the methods 
 previously described are not applicable, but the ends in view 
 will be best filled by some variety of "flat-liottomed" boat, 
 as they are commonly called. With the rougher of these 
 craft but little skill is required to turn out a strong and 
 useful boat, the operations being little more difficult than the 
 making of a common box, and even with the finer boats 
 of this class no special skill is needed beyond the ability to 
 use the ordinary tools of the house carpenter. While flat- 
 bottomed boats are usually heavy clumsy and ill-shaped, 
 there is no reason why they may not, with care and a little 
 skill, be almost as light and shapely and for many purposes 
 as good or even better than the more costly iapstreak or 
 carvel built craft. 
 
 The cheapest and simplest of all boats is the scow (Fig. 1), 
 a style of boat that may be built in a few hours and at an ex- 
 pense of two or three dollars only. In almost all places a few 
 common boards of pine, spruce, or almost any wood, can 
 readily be obtained, the commonest size in America being 
 13ft. long, lOin. wide and lin. thick. To construct a boat 
 from such material to carry two or three persons, four or 
 five boards will be necessary. Two of these should be 
 selected and a length of 10ft. sawn from each; The edges 
 of these pieces are now planed or "jointed'' up straight and
 
 252 
 
 FLAT-BOTTOMED BOATS. 
 
 square to the sides, the latter being either planed or left 
 rough. These two side pieces (a) are laid one on the other, 
 and two or three small nails driven through them to hold 
 them temporarily together, and the outline of the side is now 
 marked on the upper one. The upper edge of the hoat will 
 be straight, the bottom will be straight for 5ft. amidships, 
 and at each end for 2ft. 6in. will slant upward until the 
 end pieces of the boat (b V) are but 4in. deep. The two boards 
 are now sawn to shape and planed square on the ends and the 
 slanting portions of the bottom, then they may be taken 
 apart. 
 
 Each end piece will be 3ft. long, or longer if a wider boat 
 is required, and 4in. wide in the rough. The upper edges 
 
 FIG. 1 Scow. 
 
 are planed up, and the sides are each nailed to the ends, 
 using eight-penny nails, or ten-penny if the stuff is over fin. 
 thick. The frame is now turned bottom up, the two end 
 pieces are planed on their bottom edges to correspond with 
 the bevel of the bottom, then a sufficient number of pieces to 
 cover the bottom are sawn off the remaining boards. In 
 this case they will each be 3ft. 2in. long. Their edges are 
 carefully "jointed up" straight and square, and they are 
 nailed in place across the bottom. When all are nailed on 
 the ends may be planed down even with the sides of the
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 233 
 
 boat. To stiffen the bottom a strip 5in. wide and f to lin. 
 thick (see i, Fig. 2) is laid down the center of the bottom 
 inside and nailed with wrought or clinch nails to each plank, 
 the nails being driven through and their points clinched or 
 turned in, using a hammer and an iron set. About 2ft. at 
 each end will be covered with a deck, as at h, Fig. 2. One 
 seat will be put in for rowing, being supported on two cleats, 
 one nailed to each side. Iron rowlocks may be obtained in 
 most localities at a cost of seventy-five cents per pair, and 
 are better than wooden ones, but if they are not to be had, 
 the latter can be made of oak. A cleat of oak IJin. thick, 
 2in. deep and 9in. long is screwed along the inside of the 
 gunwale. In each cleat two mortises are cut, l|in. long, 
 ^in. wide, and 3Jin. apart. The rowlocks are each 7in. 
 long, |in. thick, 2in. wide above the cleat, and l|in. wide in 
 the mortises, projecting 4in. above the gunwale and Sin. 
 below. 
 
 If all the joints are neatly made, the boat should be tight 
 after being in the water a short time; but it is always best 
 to paint or tar the entire boat, inside and out, preserving the 
 wood and lessening the chance of leakage. In no case should 
 caulking be needed in a new boat. If the builder desires, 
 each edge can be painted as the board is put in place, which 
 will still further prevent any leakage. 
 
 While such a boat is often all that is needed, with a little 
 more care and skill a much better one may be built. The 
 punt, as it is commonly called (Fig. 2), is a scow of rather bet- 
 ter design than the one described above, but the operations of 
 building arc similar. These boats are often used lor fishing 
 on rivers and ponds, as they are roomy, stiff and safe from 
 any danger of capsizing, and the occupants can sit all day in 
 comfort, or move about freely, which cannot be done in a 
 round-bottomed boat of similar size. Such a boat may be 
 14 to 16ft. long, 4ft. beam at gunwale, 3ft. 4in. at bottom, 
 and the sides 14in. deep. The sides (//) will each be a little 
 longer than the length of the completed boat, 14in. wide 
 and fin. thick. They should be free from knots and 
 sup wood, and as nearly alike as possible, so as
 
 254 
 
 FLAT-BOTTOMED BOATS. 
 
 to bend equally. One is laid on two benches, the 
 outline of the boat is marked out as shown, the 
 ends sweeping upward in easy curves, and it is sawn and 
 planed to shape. It is then laid on the second board, the 
 -two are lightly nailed together, and the latter planed to match, 
 a center line being marked on both while nailed together. 
 The two end pieces (c c) are next sawn out of Tin. oak or ash, 
 the ends being beveled, as the bottom of the boat througout 
 will be narrower than the top. Next a piece (d) 14 to 16in. 
 wide and 4ft. long is sawn off and the ends beveled, making 
 it 4ft. long on the upper edge and 3ft. 4in. near the lower. 
 The two small projections (e e) are left, to aid in setting the 
 
 \ c a 
 
 \ * I 
 
 e Lt 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 T- 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 -^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 & 
 
 -1 
 
 === -- 
 
 / 
 
 
 / 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 -/- 
 
 FIG. 2 PUNT. 
 
 side correctly. This board or mould is placed on edge, 
 one side board is laid in place against it at the center mark, 
 and a few nails are driven through the side board into the 
 end of the piece. Now the other side is fitted in the same 
 manner. The three pieces resting on a level floor the corre- 
 sponding ends of the side pieces are drawn together with 
 ropes until the end pieces will just fit between, then the sides 
 are nailed or screwed to the ends. The best way to do this 
 is to bore the holes and fit each side in turn to its correspond- 
 ing end piece, putting in the screws, before the sides are
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 255 
 
 nailed to the mould (the pieces after fitting being taken 
 apart); then when the ends are finally in place there is nc 
 trouble in holding and adjusting them, the screws being rein- 
 serted in the holes already bored. 
 
 When sides and ends are well fastened together, both 
 of the frames should have the same degree of curve, and the 
 entire frame should be true and symmetrical. The lower 
 edges of the sides having been planed square, now require 
 to be beveled slightly, on account of the outward flare of 
 the sides. To do this a piece of board, one of those cut for 
 the bottom, is laid across and used as a guide, the outer 
 corner of each edge, both of sides and ends, being planed off 
 until the board lies flat across all the edges. The bottom 
 boards are now cut to length and nailed in place, the edges 
 of each being very carefully planed up to fit its neighbors. 
 When the bottom is on, the ends are planed off even with 
 the side of the boat, it is turned over and a strip (i) oin. wide 
 is nailed down the middle of the bottom, as in the previous 
 boat. This, strip will be lin. thick at its center, but toward 
 the ends it may diminish to |in. so as to bend more easily to 
 the curve of the bottom. When it is in, the ends are decked 
 over for two or three feet, as at h h. Two thwarts or seats 
 (jj) will be put in, each 9in. wide and lin. thick. They should 
 be placed about 7in. below the gunwale, and each end will 
 rest on a short piece nailed to the side of the boat, long 
 enough to reach from the bottom to the wider side of the 
 seat. The seats should be secured well to the sides, as they 
 serve to stiffen the boat. A gunwale strip is usually run 
 around the outer edge. It may be of oak fin. wide and l|in. 
 thick, screwed to the side pieces. Rowlocks and stretchers 
 complete the boat. It will, however, be easier to row straight 
 if a skag be added to the after end. A stern post of oak 
 Ixl^in. is nailed down the center of the end, and in the 
 angle between it and the bottom is fitted a piece of liu. 
 board (o, Fig. 3) nailed to it and the bottom. On the stem 
 post a rudder may be hung if desired. 
 
 While such a boat answers very well for fishing and simi- 
 lar purposes, if much rowing or sailing is done, a better form
 
 256 
 
 FLAT BOTTOM ED BOATS. 
 
 is that of the skiff or bateau shown in Fig. 3. In this boat 
 the after end is similar to the previous one, but the bow is 
 very different, resembling more a round-bottomed boat. The 
 
 sideboards are marked and cut as in the former boat, but at 
 the fore-end they are not cut up at all, but are sawn off at a 
 slight bevel to fit the forward rake of the stem (k I shows 
 the sideboard in the rough, with the side marked out). The
 
 AMATEUR CANOE BUILDING. 257 
 
 gunwale will have a slight sheer, part of it being due to the 
 bending of the sideboards, but to increase it the upper edges 
 are ma le a little hollow, their concavity being from 1 to 2in., 
 according to the sheer desired. A middle mould is cut out 
 similar to d, and also a stern piece, the latter of lin. oak. It 
 is fitted and screwed to each sideboard in turn, then it is 
 taken off, the sideboards are nailed to the mould along the 
 lines A B, and the sternboard is replaced and screwed fast. 
 Now the two sides are drawn together with a rope at thei-r 
 fore-ends until they nearly or quite meet, as at t, and a piece 
 of oak of triangular form (f) is cut to fit in the angle 
 between them, and they are screwed fast to it. The bend 
 of the sides will cause the bottom of the boat to have 
 considerable rocker, usually much more than is desirable. 
 To avoid this, when the frame is thus far completed, the bot- 
 tom edges of both sideboards are planed down from m to n, 
 until the bottom is straight for some distance amidships. 
 This can best be determined by setting the frame, top upward, 
 on a level floor. When the edges are planed off equally they 
 must be beveled, as in the preceding boat, the floor is nailed 
 on, the middle piece is put in and nailed down, and the 
 thwarts put in. Both in bow and stern there will also be 
 seats at about Sin. below the gunwale and of the shape 
 shown. To complete the bow, the ends of the sideboards 
 are planed off, and another triangular piece of oak (s) is 
 sawn out and nailed against the ends and the piece r, as 
 shown, making a sharp bow. A scag (d) is also a^ded, wale 
 strips are put on, and the boat is ready for painting. Such 
 a boat may have a centerboard, as described in the previous 
 chapters, and may also be fitted with sails in the same man- 
 ner as an ordinary round-bottomed boat.
 
 258 FLAT-BOTTOMED BOATS. 
 
 THE DORY. 
 
 These boats are largely used by the fishermen of the 
 Atlantic Coast, both along shore and on the fishing ves- 
 sels, and they are also suitable for ro wing and as service 
 boats for yachts. 
 
 The boat here shown is planked with white pine, the 
 sides, of three pieces each, being -iVn., and the bottom 
 in. The laps of the siding are rabbeted, so as to make a 
 flush surface inside and out. The timbers are of oak Ijx 
 lin. and 2 Jin. in thwarts. The gunwales are lin. xliin., 
 with a fin. strip on top, covering edge of upper streak 
 also. There are three movable thwarts resting on risings, 
 and removed when the boats are nested or packed. The 
 sizes are so arranged that five boats can be stored together, 
 one within the other, thus occupying little space on deck.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 Annie, Canoe Yawl 205 
 
 Apron 62, 115 
 
 Back Rabbet 42 
 
 Backboard Canoe 66 
 
 Boat 119 
 
 Balance Lug 84, 166, 225 
 
 Ballast in Canoes 161 
 
 Barnegat Cruiser 216 
 
 Sneakbox 215 
 
 Bateau 251 
 
 Battens 84, 141 
 
 Beam 136 
 
 Beading Line 42 
 
 Beds, Camp 104 
 
 Bench 34 
 
 Bending Timbers . .119 
 
 Bevel . . 49 
 
 Bilge Keels 55 
 
 Block Model 19 
 
 Boat, Flat 167 
 
 Body Plan 12 
 
 Breasthook 117 
 
 Broadstreak 49 
 
 Building 27, 40 
 
 Burrs 52 
 
 Buttock Line 12, 18, 123 
 
 Button Boards 118 
 
 CANOE : 
 
 Canadian 7 
 
 Canvas 80, 111, 156 
 
 Classification 8, 125 
 
 Clyde 141 
 
 Cruiser, Barnegat 216 
 
 Cruising 137, 141, 145, 149 
 
 Definition 7 
 
 Dot 139 
 
 Double 153 
 
 Doubleskin 29 
 
 Elements 124 
 
 Fittings 57 
 
 Guenn 179 
 
 Herald 29 
 
 lone 02 
 
 Jacket 62,64 
 
 Jersey Blue 13, 22, 137 
 
 Laco wsic 174 
 
 Laloo 141 
 
 La<=sie 1*35 
 
 Mersey 212 
 
 Metal... .. 29 
 
 CANOE: 
 
 Nautilus 145 
 
 Notus 176 
 
 Ontario 30 
 
 Paper 30 
 
 Pearl 147, 158 
 
 Peco wsic 170 
 
 Baritania 137 
 
 Ribband Carvel 28 
 
 River 137 
 
 Sails 70 
 
 Seat 66 
 
 Shadow 139 
 
 Sunbeam ]69 
 
 Tandem 153 
 
 Vagaboad 200 
 
 Vesper 174 
 
 Yawl 204 
 
 Canoe Construction 180 
 
 Canvas Boat 165 
 
 Carvel Build 27, 119, ^'33 
 
 Gassy 206 
 
 Caulking 27, 121 
 
 Cedar 132 
 
 Centerboards. .88, 93, 125, 127, 134, 
 187 
 
 Centerboard Trunks 40, 90 
 
 Center of Effort 71 
 
 Lateral Resistance 71 
 
 Clamps '.... 34 
 
 Cleat, Butler 199 
 
 Clinker Build 27 
 
 Clio, Open Boat 246 
 
 Clyde Canoe 141 
 
 Clyde Tent 103 
 
 Coamings 55 
 
 Coefficient of Displacement.. 9 
 
 Cove 117 
 
 Cress Spalls 52 
 
 Crown of Deck 54 
 
 Crutch 129 
 
 Decks 54 
 
 Deck Beams 54,112 
 
 Flaps 60 
 
 Hatches 66 
 
 Tiller... 131,190 
 
 Yoke 129 
 
 Delta, Sailing Boat 230 
 
 Depth of Keel 126 
 
 Designing 11 
 
 Diagonal Lines 12, 17
 
 INDEX. 
 
 261 
 
 Page 
 
 Dingeys 247 
 
 Displacement 9 
 
 Dory 258 
 
 Draft 10 
 
 Drawing Instruments 11 
 
 Paper 12 
 
 Drip Cups 68 
 
 Drop Rudder 95, lit!) 
 
 Ducker 237 
 
 Page 
 Nailing Plank 50,51 
 
 Offsets, Tables of 21 
 
 Oliver Lateen 78 
 
 Paddles 67 
 
 Painting 56 
 
 Panels 141 
 
 Paper Canoes 30 
 
 PrrO \Vnlc, 170 
 
 Planking 38, 45 
 
 Plank, Taxing Off 23 
 
 Punts 251 
 
 Fairing 17 
 
 Farnham's Apron 63, 133 
 
 Finishing "-0 
 
 Fiaps^eck-;:::::. :::::::..;: eo Rabbet L ine 40,115 
 
 Flnnr ilnnrrlq ~3 54 118 Racks. 118 
 
 3 A a*, 118 Reefl G(jar 78,141,145,198 
 
 Footling jS ua Ribs 44,52,112 
 
 Foot Yo e keV.V. :.::... V.V.V:.V.l^ >.* Batten Canoes 28 
 
 Forest and Stream Cruiser . . .221 5}'' n f ^ l \ 
 
 Aboard 10 g^^;;;; ;; ; ; ;;;;;:;.;;:;. g 
 
 ... Rowboats 115, 122, 156 
 
 Garboard 46 R o w i oc ks 118 
 
 Grade 243 Rudders 94, 119, 189, 199 
 
 Gridiron .v-'K? Fastenings 96 
 
 Gunwale 112, ll< Lines 132 
 
 Half Breadth Plan 12 Sails 70 
 
 Halliard 82, 141 Canoe Yawl 208 
 
 Hatches 66,149 Clio 246 
 
 Headledges 43,90 Delta 2S6 
 
 Hunting Boats 248 Dot 140 
 
 Forest & Stream Cruiser.225 
 
 Inwale 112 Grade 244 
 
 Iris 213 lone 2C3 
 
 Iris 214 
 
 Jackstay 86 Laloo 143 
 
 Lassie 177 
 
 Keel 40,112,115,126 Lateen 76 
 
 Batten 40 Leg of Mutton 76 
 
 Keelson 115 Lord Ross Lateen 76 
 
 Kittiwake Tent. 102 Lugs 8-', 160, 189 
 
 Measurement of 72 
 
 Lamps 110 Mohican 78, 159 
 
 Lapstreak 27 Notus 178 
 
 Laying Down ^1 Oliver Lateen 78 
 
 Ledges 53 Pecowsic 173 
 
 Limber Holes 53 Sea Bee 180 
 
 Lines 12 Sharpie 76 
 
 Sneakbox 166 
 
 Mast Steps and Tubes 55 Stevens 192 
 
 Materials 31 Sunbeam 169 
 
 Mattress 104 Tandem Canoe 155 
 
 Measurement Rules 10, 125 Vagabond 193 
 
 Mess Chest 110 Vesper 1V6 
 
 Middle Ordinate 18, 123 Vital Spark SOS 
 
 Midship Section 10, 14 Yawl 1H9 
 
 Mo'lels 8, 19 Scag Band 119 
 
 Mohican Sail 159 Scow 251 
 
 Moulds 24,115 Seats, Canoe 66
 
 262 
 
 LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 Page 
 
 Set 34 
 
 Sharpie Rig 76 
 
 Sheer 10 
 
 SLutter 121 
 
 Sirmark 46, 48 
 
 Skirt Jacket 62,64 
 
 Sneakbox 215 
 
 Spiling 46, 119 
 
 Spinaker 193 
 
 Staff 46 
 
 Stem 40,115 
 
 Band 55,119 
 
 Steam Box 9,119 
 
 Steering Gears 123, l. r >9 
 
 Stephens' Center board 187 
 
 Rudder Gear 189 
 
 Stern 116 
 
 Stirrups 129, 132 
 
 Stocks 36 
 
 Stopwaters 44 
 
 Stretcher 130 
 
 Stoves i06, 108 
 
 Tabernacles 97, 209 
 
 Tack 82,141 
 
 Tiller, Deck 131, 190 
 
 Butler 199 
 
 Topping Lift 86 
 
 Page 
 
 Telescopic Apron 63 
 
 Tents 100,133 
 
 Thwarts 118 
 
 Tiller 131,190 
 
 Timbers, Be ding 119 
 
 Timber Block 119 
 
 Timbering Canoe 62 
 
 Tools 33 
 
 Transom Knees 117 
 
 Trunks 40 
 
 Tuckup 239 
 
 Upper Streak 45, 117 
 
 Varnishing 56 
 
 Vagabond 200 
 
 Vesper 174 
 
 Vise 34 
 
 Vital Spark 207 
 
 Watertight Hatches 149 
 
 Weather Helm 74 
 
 Wells 55.57 
 
 Work Bench 34 
 
 Yachts' Boats 163 
 
 Yawl, Canoe 160,187 
 
 Yoke 67 
 
 LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 I. Cruisiog Canoe "Jersey Blue" Lines. 
 
 II. Canoe "Jersey Blue" Construction Drawing. 
 
 III. River Canoe "Raritania." 
 
 IV. Cruising Canoe "Dot" Shadow Model. 
 V. "Dot" Racing Sail. 
 
 VI. Clyde Cance "Laloo." 
 
 VII. "Laloo"- Sail Plan. 
 
 VIII. Racing and Cruising Canoe "Nautilus." 
 
 IX. Cruising Canoe "Pearl" No. 3. 
 
 X. Racing Canoe "Pearl" No. 6. 
 
 XI. American Cruising and Racing Canoe. 
 
 XII. Tandem Canoe. 
 
 XIII. Tandem Canoe Sail Plan. 
 
 XIV. Canvas Canoe. 
 
 XV. Fourteen-foot Rowboat. 
 
 XVI. Rowing and Sailing Boat. 
 
 XVII. Mohican Sail. Canoe Footgear.
 
 LIST OF PLATES. 263 
 
 XVni. Canoe Fittings. 
 XIX. Class A Canoe "Lassie." 
 XX. "Lassie" Sail Plan. 
 XXI. Class B Canoe "Sun beam." 
 XXII. Class B Canoe "Pecowsic." 
 
 XXIII. "Pecowsic" Sail Plan. "Vesper" Sail Plan. 
 
 XXIV. Class B Canoe "Vesper." 
 XXV. Class B Canoe "Notus." 
 
 XXVI. "Notus" Sail Plan. 
 XXVII. Class B Canoe "Guenn" Lines. 
 XXVIII. Class B Canoe "Guenn" Fittings. 
 
 XXIX. Class B Canoe "Guenn" Sail Plan. Drop Rudder. 
 XXIXa. Canoe Fittings. 
 
 XXX. Class B Canoe "Vagabond." 
 XXXa. Body Plans of "Vesper" and "Vagabond." "Iris" 
 
 Sail Plan. 
 
 XXXI. Canoe "lone." 
 XXXII. "lone" Sail Plan. Canoe Yawl "Ann: u" 
 
 XXXIII. Canoe Yawl "Gassy." 
 
 XXXIV. Canoe Yawl "Vital Spark." 
 XXXV. "Vital Spark"-Sail Plan. 
 
 XXXVI. Mersey Canoe. 
 
 XXXVII. Canoe Yawl "Iris." (Sail Plan on Plate XXXti.) 
 X X X V 1 1 1 . Barnegat Sneakbox. 
 XXXIX. Barnegat Cruiser. 
 
 XL. "Forest and Stream" Cruiser. 
 XLI. "Forest and Stream" Cruiser Sail Plan. 
 XLII. Sailing and Cruising Boat "Delta." 
 XLIII. Sailing and Cruising Boat "Delta" Sail Plan. 
 XLIV. Delaware Piiver "Duckcr." 
 XLV. Delaware River "Tuckup." 
 
 XL VI. "Tuckup" Sail Plan. "Forest and Stream" Cruiser- 
 Body Plan. 
 
 XLVII. Sailing Skiff "Gracie." 
 XL VIII. Sailing Skiff "Clio." 
 XLIX. Small Dingeys. 
 L. Sporting Boats.
 
 R. J. DOUGLAS & Co., 
 
 WAUKEGAN, ILL. 
 
 CANOES. 
 
 SMALL CRAFT OF ALL TYPES. 
 Furniture and Fittings of all kinds. 
 
 WORKMANSHIP AND MODELS UNSURPASSED, 
 
 Prices Moderate. 
 
 Send for our illustrated catalogue of books on 
 fishing, shooting, canoeing, yachting, camping, dogs, 
 natural history, outdoor life, field sports, travel, 
 adventure, etc., etc. Free to any address. FORKS r 
 AND STREAM PUBLISHING COMPANY, 318 Broadway, 
 New York.
 
 .(OAE ma. NEPTDNE ANCHOR WORKS, 
 
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 SHIP CHANDLERS' GOODS GENERALLY. 
 34 & 35 SOUTH STREET, 
 
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