o 2 NOTES TAKEN DURING THE EXPEDITION COMMANDED BY CAPT. R. B. MARCY, U. S. A. THROUGH UNEXPLORED TEXAS, In the Summer and Fall of 1854. BY W. B. PARKER Attached to the Expedition. PHILADELPHIA: HAYES & ZELL, No. 193 MARKET STREET. 1856.. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865, BY HAYES 4 ZELL, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Eastern District of Ponnsvlvnnia. WHO A BAIRD, PRINTERS, SANSOM HT. irwy TO MY WIFE I Dedicate my Book. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION. Act of Texas Legislature. Capt. Marcy ordered to take Command. De- parture from New York. Arrival at Fort Smith. Fitting out the Train. Departure for Fort Washita^ Incidents of the first two days CHAPTEK II. CHOCTAW AGENCY TO GAINES 7 CEEEK. Arrive at the Agency. Law against introduction of whiskey among the Indians. Ball play. Profanity among teamsters. Description of an Indian family and hut. Accident to wagon. Meeting of friends. Pass the nar- rows. Bituminous coal found. Emigrant's grave. Night in an Indian hut. The sub-Chief and his peculiarities. Arrival at the Fouche Maliant. Arrival at the Council-House. Singular pottery found. Description of prairie scenery. Flies troublesome, Mutiny among teamsters. Detention of train. Description of the Indian in his home 17 CHAPTER III. GAINES' CREEK TO FORT WASHITA. Horse bitten by a snake. Prairie flowers. Oats met with. White men married to squaws. Law upon the subject. Fossils found. Coal abund- yi CONTENTS. ant. Soil, limestone. Army worm. Severe storm. Emigrants met with. Arrive at the Boggy. Choctaw swamp. Wild cattle. Train stopped. Start for the fort. Flies troublesome. Cross the Blue. Arrive at Washita 42 CHAPTER IV. STAY AT FOET WASHITA. Description of the Post Pleasant stay among our friends. Fossiliferous Remains. Prairie, ancient bed of the ocean. Prairie Flowers. Timber through the country. Indians met with. Soil of the Choctaw and Chicka- saw Reserves. Remarks upon the Natives. Territorial Bill. Captain leaves on 22d with part of the Train 53 CHAPTER Y. FORT WASHITA TO LOWER CROSS TIMBERS. Leave the Fort. Military escort Adventure with a Chickasaw. Arrive at Red River. Scenes at the Ferry. Town of Preston. Desperate fight Description of soil, Ac. Cross Big Mineral. Basin Spring. Distances on Plains deceptive. Arrive at Lower Cross Timbers 67 CHAPTER VI. LOWER CROSS TIMBERS TO UPPER CROSS TIMBERS. Camp on Elm Fork of Trinity.-Independence day.-Arrival of Indian huntrs.-Rmark* on the Delawares.-Arrival at Gainesville. Description o Tornado. Funny scene in Gainesville. Last house in Texas. Parlanct CONTENTS. Vll of the settlers. Camp on the Trinity. Night march. Manner of tracking horses by the Indians. First rattlesnake killed. Arrival at Upper Cross Timbers 81 CHAPTER VII. UPPER CROSS TIMBERS TO LITTLE WITCHITA. Thoughts at Sunset. Enter the Timber. Camp fire half way. Old soldier brought in. Jackson's Adventure. Singular Mounds. The Dela- ware? in Camp. Sunset Scene. Arrive at Little Witchita CHAPTER VIII. LITTLE WITCHITA TO COTTON WOOD SPRING. Curious phenomenon. Buffalo signs seen. History of the buffalo. Deer bleat. Me?quite trees. Captain leaves for Belknap. Ox killed. Wolves abundant. Indian relics found. Wild horse tracks seen. Wild passion flower. Kickapoo camp. Arrive at Cotton Wood Spring 100 CHAPTER IX. CAMP AT THE COTTON WOOD SPRING. Officers leave. Description of Camp. Wild Indians come in. Treatment of Squaws. Visit of the Indians. Indian Bivouac. Departure of Indians. Captain and party arrive. Major Neighbours. Description of our Indian Corps 110 Viii CONTENTS. CHAPTEK X. COTTON WOOD SPRING TO DIVIDING RIDGE. Leave the road. Description of country from Red River. Stock raising in Texas. Buck killed. Indian cookery. Description of Bluffs. Kickapoo grave. Cactus seen. Deer called up by bleat. Mesquite Beans. Bridging Ravines. Black Flies. Cross Crater. Snakes shot. Arrive at Little Witch- ita. Mesquite Grass. Indian signs. Manner of lariating. Valley of Witch- ita. Fine scenery on the Plains. Antelope killed. Anxiety about Horses. Jackass Rabbit killed. Breezes on the Plains. Exploring Party leave. Arrive at branch of Big Witchita. Repairing Wagons. Intense weather. Effect of the atmosphere. Oxen missing. Reach the Little Witchita. Exploring Party return. Insects on the Plains. Fawn chase. Camanche grave. Reach the Divide 118 CHAPTER XI. DIVIDING RIDGE TO THE HEAD OF THE BRAZOS. Water scarce. Iron and Copper found. Black Lizard. Scorpion caught. Camanche signal. Preparations for exploring party with pack mules, &c. Party leave. Antelopes seen. Barren country. Bad water. Filling water- acka. Witchita trail. Conner's sagacity. Chapparal cock. Reach Big Wit- chita. Quick sands. Accidents frequent. Dexterity of Indians in skinning deer. Bluffs met with. Bivouac on bluff. Fire in bivouac. Twilight des- cribed. Rattlesnake killed. Gypsum found. Stream crooked. Bitter water. Sickness in the party. Large grasshopper found. Insects scarce. Head of Big Witchita. Travelling South. Limestone water found. Ca- manche grave. Singular ridge. Man lost. Bivouac on Brazos. Alarm in bivouacs-Prairie Dog town. Catfish Creek. Camanche trail. Rough country. Singular knobs. Hard times. Man very ill. Gypsum mountain. CTOM fork of Bra**. Better country. Prairie Dogs. Table Mountain. Arrive on LUno Eactaeado. Head of the Brazoa ,.. 141 CONTENTS. IX CHAPTEK XII. HEAD OF THE BRAZOS TO FLAT ROCK CREEK. Halt on the Llano Esctacado. Grand View. Descend from the plain. Long Ride. Miserable Bivouac. Curious sight. Panther Chase. Terrible Storm. Severe sufferings. Indian Shealing. Pleasant dreams. Water plenty. Singular bush. Chain of lakes. Beautiful spring. Pleasant Bivouac. Mesquite Gum. Eickapoos. Pish shot. Manner of spearing fish. Reach our Camp. Move Camp. Flat Rock Creek. 162 CHAPTER XIII. FLAT ROCK CREEK TO CLEAR FORK OF THE BRAZOS. Camp in flames. Hot weather. Great change. Accident to Train Jacobs leaves. Jackson the Delaware. First Camanches met. Description of Ke-tum-e-see and wives. Talk held. Camp at Double Mountain Fork. Chief and wiveg leave. Large Cactus met with. Reach the Clear Fork. Stem's Rancho. Indian Justice. Camp on Clear Fork.- 176 CHAPTER XIV. CAMP ON CLEAR FORK OF THE BRAZOS. Sub-chiefs arrive. Incidents with the chiefs. Story of the German settlement. Exploring the country. Se-na-co and party arrive. Des- cription of the party. Interesting woman. Invalid discribed. Mexican boy. Naroni and his costume. Camanche women. Camanche lance and shield. Feeding the Indians. Toilette of the men described. Indian x CONTENTS. dance.-Drewing skins. Council held. Presents distributed. Women bathing. Plan of hardening horses' hoofs. Little Mexican. Indians leave. Remarks upon traders. New species of Squirrels. Ke-tum-e-see and the invalid. Excitement in camp. Move camp 188 CHAPTER XV. CAMP ON THE CLEAR FORK TO CAMP ON THE LOWER BRAZOS. Survey concluded. Leave for Fort Belknap. Description of country passed over. Manner of designating Indian Camps by the Delawares. Arrive at Fort Belknap. Indian Council held. Bear Head the interpreter. Description of Fort Belknap, Lieut. Givings, a true sportsman. Puma chaae. March to Caddo Village. Description of the Village. Jim Shaw and his family. Grasses met with on our trip. Finish the Survey. Leave for home 212 CHAPTER XVI. * THE INDIANS OF THE COUNTRY. Names of the tribes. John Conner the Delaware Guide. Customs among the Delawares. Traits of character with anecdotes illustrative. Descriptions of other tribes. Creek green-corn dance and feast. Traditions among the tribes. Incidents of the Quapaws. The Camanches, number and division. Supposed origin. Religious ideas. Contempt for the whites. Treatment of women. Customs among them. Their habit*. Anecdote* of the Camauchea.-General Remarks ... 221 PKEFACE. THESE desultory Notes, taken merely to refresh my memory when recurring to scenes so fraught, to me, with interesting reminiscences, would never have met the public eye had it not been for the kind and flattering solicitations of friends who have perused my journal ; and if, by putting them in print, I can excite one-half the interest and pleasure with the general reader which the expedition gave me, I shall be amply repaid for the time spent and the care taken in writing my book. In the arrangement of my work my object is twofold, viz., to impart all tlie information I can respecting the physical character of the country passed through on the whole line of our march from the frontier, and to entertain, by relating from personal observation, scenes and incidents of daily occurrence, whilst roaming through so wild a region as the far South- West. Associated as I was with men of long experience .iu the performance of similar duties, my observations have been aided by scientific knowledge, whilst the protection of a gov- ernment escort gave opportunity for close inspection, without the harrassing anticipation of attack and disaster a great barrier to thorough investigation of a country by private parties. Xii PREFACE. Many of my scenes and incidents in prairie and Indian life are a personal narrative. Where not. they are taken from the mouths of those who were witnesses or actors in them, and whose long experience gives them a right to full confidence on my part. As a personal narrative, I have not thought proper to be minute, but in mentioning soil, climate and natural history have spoken in general terms, except a few digressions, which I thought necessary to fully understand the subject. This is now the fourth expedition that Captain Marcy has accomplished, with honour and credit to himself, and to the satisfaction of the government. Major Neighbours had lived the best years of his life upon the frontier, and had spent four- teen years in intimate relation with the wild Indians. Dr. Shu- mard had the experience of the Red River trip under Captain Marcy, besides being well versed in geology, mineralogy, and natural history ; whilst the corps of Indian hunters and guides were themselves efficient by birth and habit, and led by a Del- aware of intelligence and great experience, whose traits and stories of Indian life were imparted with freedom, and every reason for full reliability. With such advantages, I trust I have made a book, reliable for what information it may contain, and entertaining, from the incidents I have endeavoured to combine with what might be otherwise considered dry detail. FORT SMITH TO THE CHOCTAW AGENCY. CHAPTER I. OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION. Act of Texas Legislature. Capt. Marcy ordered to take Command. Departure from New York. Arrival at Fort Smith. Fitting out the Train. Departure for Fort "Washita. Incidents of the first two days. THE great drawback to rapid settlement beyond the frontier of the South and West, is the depredations committed by the roving bands of Indians, who subsist in that region. These people live an entirely nomadic life, have no settled homes, wander from place to place over the vast plains in search of game or plunder, and living in this precarious way, are neces- sarily often reduced to a state of starvation. As they live entirely upon flesh, large quantities are of course consumed, and when reduced to short allowance, they eat horses and mules. This, together with the necessity of having animals to transport themselves and "families, also to use in war and the chase, induces constant forays upon exposed situations, when murder, rapine and captivity are the inevitable results to the hapless settler. Many well cultivated spots have thus been broken up and abandoned, and the continuance of the evil retards emigration and euterprize to such an extent that large tracts of the most fertile kind are left tenantless. To remove this scourge from her territory, the State of 10 NOTES TAKEN. Texas, by an act of her Legislature, approved Feb. 6th, ] 854, appropriated eighteen square leagues of her unlocated lands, to form a reserve, for the settlement of all the Indians within her borders, on condition that the United States government would cause these lands to be located and surveyed, and would induce the Indians to settle upon them, confine them- selves to their limits, go to farming, and quit their wandering and predatory habits, the United States government also agreeing to send agricultural implements, seeds, men to teach the Indians to farm and take care of stock, and subsistence for the Indians until a crop was raised. The Secretary of War, and Secretary of the Interior, issued orders in April of the same year, to Captain Marcy, then in New York, to repair forthwith to Fort Smith, on the frontier of Arkansas, and organize an expedition to carry out the provisions of this act. The previous reputation of this officer, his long experience and thorough knowledge of prairie and frontier life, eminently qualified him for this duty, connected with which he was also required to penetrate the terra incognita at the head waters of the Big Washita and Brazos rivers, explore these streams to their sources, and ascertain the description of country where they take their rise. The long and friendly intimacy that had existed between the Captain and myself, afforded me an opportunity to realize what has been to me the dream of my whole life, viz., a tour over the vast plains of the far South-west ; and it was with FORT SMITH. 11 no little pleasure and self-congratulation that I availed myself of it, as I should have, not only an intimate friend of noble spirit, energy and experience for my companion and director, but also the sanction and protection of the govern- ment. As may be supposed, no persuasion was necessary, and though the time was short, my preparations were soon made. Captain Marcy's orders arrived on the 26th of April, and on the 4th of May we left New York, arriving in Fort Smith on the 18th, when the Captain, with his accustomed energy, aided by the efficient Quartermaster, Captain French, imme- diately set about his preparations, and with such perseve- rance and success, that by the 1st of June we were ready for our long journey. The town of Fort Smith, (in the suburbs of which stands the garrison,) is a place of considerable commercial impor- tance, doing a large Indian and up river trade. It stands upon* the Arkansas river, near the mouth of the Poteau, and contains about twenty-five hundred inhabitants. The garrison is well and substantially built of brick, and was at the time, the head quarters of the seventh infantry, commanded by Colonel Wilson, who, during the Mexican war was governor of Yera Cruz. This officer, took a deep interest in the expedition, (as he does in everything national,) and to him, we were indebted for many civilities, during our short stay. The Captain here secured the services of Dr. G. G 12 NOTES TAKEN. Shumard (a resident physician of Fort Smith,) who accom- panied him on his Red river exploration, as surgeon and naturalist, and joined us in the same capacity. He was an ardent enthusiast in the cause of science and, most indefati- gable in its pursuit. By orders, we were to get our military escort at Fort Arbuckle, about one hundred and twenty miles west, but the Captain determined, to march with our train through the Choctaw county to Fort Washita and meet the escort there, as the road was smoother, and more travelled. a great differ- ence in our favor, with our heavy train. June 1st. We left Fort Smith at noon, and crossing the Poteau river, immediately in rear of the garrison, entered upon the Choctaw Reserve, " en route " for Fort Washita, one hundred and eighty miles distant. Our train consisted of nine wagons, containing provisions, ammunition, camp equipage, small stores, and every thing necessary for our journey. Each of these was drawn by three yokes of oxen ; we had, besides, ten horses, an ambu- ance drawn by two mules, and fifteen men, as teamsters, lartificers, cooks and hostlers. The road, which was narrow, with but a single track, ran through a rich alluvial bottom, overgrown with a dense, luxuriant growth of wild cane and immense cotton-wood trees, and owing to the prevalence of late rains, was one quagmire for ten miles. Our oxen, (unaccustomed to their drivers, and to a service FIRST ENCAMPMENT. 13 which, from the depth of the road, was so entirely different from steady farm work,) proved very refractory, so it was not long before two wagons were broken down, and to add to our difficulties, a violent storm arose, of wind, rain, hail, thunder, and lightning, fully realizing the truth of the old adage, " it never rains but it pours." Owing to these circumstances, and finding no convenient t place to encamp, (the whole country being flooded,) it was not until ten P. M., that we reached a short prairie, twelve miles upon our route, where wet and hungry, with the rain pouring down in torrents, we found that the disabled wagons (which we were obliged to leave in the swamp until they could be repaired,) contained our camp baggage and rations, so that we were obliged to resign ourselves to a supperless bed, upon the wet grass, until the morning, thus making my initiation into camp life, rather laborious and exciting, but far from pleasant. An incident during our march, amused and cheered me very much. Whilst riding along by the train, my ears were startled by an old familiar air, and I found the amateur was one of our ox drivers. He was carolling a moonlight love ditty, whilst wading mid leg in mud. Sentiment under difficulties ; I knew not which to admire most, the song, or the happy spirits of the singer ; he seemed to admire, and feel quite satisfied with both, judging from the hearty will with which he appealed to moonlight, music, love and flowers. Surely, a 2* 14 NOTES TAKEN. poetical ox driver is an anomaly for a more unpoetical occupation cannot be imagined. June 2d. Towards morning, the storm subsided, but when day dawned, four horses and one yoke of oxen were missing. I mounted my horse to search for them, having previously despatched a party to assist in getting up the wagons from the swamp. In the course of my ride, I met with a very agreeable surprise at an Indian house by the roadside, where I stopped to make some inquiries. My attention had been arrested in passing this house, during the storm- and darkness of the previous night, by a merry ringing laugh, and cheerful conversation. On stopping this morning, I was met by a kind and courteous welcome from one of the inmates, (whose voice I recognized as the same,) who hearing my story, invited me to breakfast, and made me quite forget my cares, in the charm of her society. A prairie flower, brought up and educated upon the frontier, she had never been in a town of any size in her life, but though ignorant of the world, and forms of society, I found her a proud specimen of native grace, intelligence, and affability. A Cherokee, she owed her improvement in mind, to the excellent institution founded by Ross, at Talaqua, her manners, however, were the result of no convention, but the pift of birth and blood. The daughter of a distinguished chief of her tribe, her soul was full of the ancient nobility of her race, whilst filled with indignation at their wrongs and present degradation, and her eye kindled, and her tongue INDIAN BELLE. 15 became eloquent whilst dwelling npon their ancient grandeur. I was charmed beyond measure, surprised to a degree, for with a majority, I had hitherto considered Indian worth and character, a matter of tradition ; it was like sunset upon a ruin, or like the last strains of distant melody, which linger upon the ear as if loathe to leave. Subsequent experience has proven to me, however, that she was but one in a thousand,^ the death knell of Indian greatness has sounded, and ere long he will have vanished forever from the scene, The wagons coming up I was obliged to leave, when she proposed to accompany me a short distance, as she wished to visit a sick person in the neighborhood. Taking down an excellent double barrelled gun, and equipping herself regu- larly for hunting, with powder and shot flasks, gamebag, &c,, she smiled at my surprised look, and remarked, (i I hope to have the opportunity to show you I can use them," and so she did, as a squirrel and two quails were the result of her unerring aim and steady nerves, in the short space, half a mile, that she accompanied me. With this double battery of eyes and arms, wo betide a susceptible bachelor, so thought I, but in my case it was Ulysses and Calypso, so bidding adieu to my quondam syren, I galloped off to the unromantic drudgery of the camp. Arriving there, I found the missing oxen and horses had been brought in, and all hands busy in preparing a hearty meal, after which tents were pitched, and we spent a comfortable night. The prairie, on which we were encamped, wag about 16 NOTES TAKEN. three miles wide, destitute of trees, but covered with rich grass, and beautiful flowers, among which the prairie pink, shone conspicuous, also a species of blue flag, very delicate, I made some selections of both. The soil was a dark loam. NOTES TAKEN. 17 CHAPTER II. CHOCTAW AGENCY TO GAINES* CREEK. Arrive at the Agency. Law against introduction of whiskey among the Indians. Ball play. Profanity among teamsters. Description of an Indian family and hut. Accident to wagon. Meeting of friends. Pass the narrows. Bituminous- coal found. Emigrants grave. Night in an Indian hut. The suh-Chief and his peculiarities. Arrival at the Fouche Maliant. Arrival at the Council- House. Singular pottery found. Description of prairie scenery. Flies trou- hlesoma Mutiny among teamsters. Detention of train. Description of the Indian in his home. June 3rd. A start at noon to day, brought us to the Choc- taw Agency at five P. M., where we witnessed accidentally a painful, though necessary execution of the laws of the United States, against the introduction of whiskey among the Indians. The penalty is severe, viz., fine, imprisonment, confiscation of the whiskey, and in case of negroes, flogging, at the discretion of the authorities. We had previously seen two negroes chained together by the neck, and driven along the road, by several men ; these proved to be the offenders, the one a freeman, the other a slave. It is optional with the owner, to allow the slave to be whipped or not, (the alternative being expulsion from the nation,) and in this instance he declined, but the free negro was undergoing the infliction of sixty lashes, laid on with an unmerciful hand, and to judge by his groans and cries, the punishment was full expiation for the offence. This law has had a very good effect, and enlisting as it does 18 NOTES TAKEN. the pride and energies of the Indians themselves, it creates a spirit of emulation among them, in this way, viz., a police force is organized, called the Light Horse, under pay from the general government. Their duty is a general one, but particularly to seize and destroy all liquor introduced upon, the reserve either for sale or private use. To be Captain of the Light Horse is a post of great honor, and is a source of much rivalry among the young men of the nation, thus thoroughly identifying them with this praiseworthy effort to remove a scourge from the red man, more terrible in its consequences to him than death. The same law is enforced, in regard to all Indians within the boundaries of the States and Territories, and though often evaded has had an infinite salutary effect in reducing crime and distress among them. The little town of Scullyville, where the agency is located, is a collection of log tenements, principally stores, where a large Indian trade is done. It stands about a mile from an extensive prairie, the road to which, like that from our late encampment, ran over a succession of hills of sand and clay covered with low post oaks. Upon entering upon the prairie, we observed in the distance a crowd of natives in gay clothing, the brilliant colours blending with the verdure, and making at sunset a truly picturesque scene. Riding up, we witnessed a scene never to be forgotten. It was a ball-play. Described, as this sport has been, by the able pencil of Catlin, description falls far short of reality. About six hundred men, women BALL PLAY. 19 and children, were assembled, all dressed in holiday costume, and all as intent upon the game as it is possible to be where both pleasure attd interest combine. The interest, is one tribe against another, or one county of the same tribe, against a neighboring county ; the pleasure, that which savages always take in every manly and athletic sport. In this instance the contestants were all Choctaws, practising for their annual game with the Creeks, and I was struck with the interest taken by all the lookers on, in the proficiency of each of the players. About sixty on each side were engaged in this exciting play, than which no exercise can be more violent nor better calculated to develope muscle and harden the frame. Each player provides himself with what are called ball-sticks. They are in shape like a large spoon, made of a piece of hickory about three feet long, shaved thin for about nine inches at the end forming the spoon, then bent round until brought into shape, the end securely fastened to the handle by buckskin thongs, the under side or bottom of the spoon covered with a coarse net work of the same material. He has one in each hand, and the ball about the size of a large marble, is held between the spoons and thrown with an overhand rotary motion, separating the spoons, when the top of the circle is reached. The game is this Two poles are set up, each about seven- teen feet high and a foot apart at the bottom, widening to three feet at top. At the distance of two hundred yards, two similar poles are set up facing these. To strike the poles, or 20 NOTES TAKEN. throw the ball between them counts one, and twelve is game, An umpire and starter takes the ball, advances to a mark equi-distant from each end of the course, and throws it ver- tically into the air; it is caught, or falling upon the ground is eagerly struggled for and thrown toward the desired point. We saw some throw the ball the whole distance. At each brace of poles, judges are stationed, who, armed with pistols, keep close watch, and whenever a count is made fire their pistols. The ball is then taken and started anew. Among the players, are the runners, the throwers, and those who throw themselves in the way and baffle the player who succeeds in getting the ball. The runners are the light active men, the throwers heavier, and then the fat men, who can neither throw nor run, stand ready to seize a thrower or upset a runner. When a runner gets the ball, he starts at full speed towards the poles ; if intercepted, he throws the ball to a friend, a thrower, perhaps, he is knocked down, then begins the struggle for the ball ; a scene of pushing, jostling, and striking with the ball sticks, or perhaps a wrestle or two, all attended with hard knocks and harder falls. Whilst looking on, one man was pitched upon his head and had his collar bone broken ; another, had part of his scalp knocked off, but it was all taken in good humour, and what, among white men, would inevitably lead to black eyes and bloody noses, here ended with the passage or possession of the ball, a good lesson in forbearance and amiability, worthy of imitation. BALL PLAY. 21 The combatants are stripped entirely naked except a breech cloth and moccasins, and gaudily painted ; they fasten at the centre and small of the back, a horse's tail, gaily painted and arrayed like a tail that has been knicked by a jockey ; some wore bouquets of flowers instead of the tail, but these were evidently the exquisites of the party, which the rings worn in the ears, nose and under lips, and manner of arranging the hair one having it cut to a point and drawn down over his right eye, whilst his left eye was painted green clearly proved. The grotesque appearance of the players, the excitement, yells and shouts of the crowd, old and young, and the gaudy finery displayed, all combined to make an indelible impression upon our memories. The aged men of the tribe were the most noisy and excited. One old fellow, blind of an eye and seventy years old, was quite wild with excitement ; shaking his red handkerchief, he continued to shout, hoo, ka, li hoo, ka, li catch, catch, when the ball was thrown, and chi, ca, ma, good, when a count was made, until quite hoarse. Doubtless, like the old war horse at the sound of the bugle, he felt all the fire of his youth, as he entered into the full spirit of this truly and only Indian sport. With reluctance we were obliged to leave for our quiet camp in the same prairie, and until nightfall, could hear the yells and laughter of the retiring crowd. June 4th. This (the first extensive prairie we had met) was about seven miles wide, surrounded by timber, and covered with flowers, among which the marigold and clematis were 3 22 NOTES TAKEN. profuse; the soil was quite sandy. At dawn of day we were again " en route." It was a beautiful sight in the dim light and bracing air of morning, to see the long line of white covered wagons rolling quietly over the slopes of the prairie ; the lowing of the oxen, the snorting of the horses, the shouts and cracking of whips by the drivers, with all the bustle of breaking up camp made np an enlivening scene, which must be experienced to be enjoyed. One thing however marred its enjoyment to me, and that was the awful profanity of the drivers. I have often since had occasion to comment upon and reprove this among this class of men, but never has it struck me as so ill-timed and unnatural as when indulged in, in the midst of natural beauties, which might fire a dying hermit ; under such circumstances blasphemy (a practice senseless, sinful and unnecessary) is like a volcano, devas- tating the fair fields, and sunny vineyards, of Italian climes, harrowing to the soul, revolting to nature. Being quite unwell the result of the severe exposure of the last few days, I stopped in the course of the morning at an Indian hut to get some coffee, and had an opportunity to make some observations upon the indolence, carelessness, want of calculation and slovenly habits of this semibarbarous people. The man had built his hut, which was new, about half as large as was necessary to accommodate his family, consisting of five adults and four children, and even this he was too indolent to finish. It had but one room, built of logs, roofed with a rude clap board, split from sapling oak. The INDIAN COFFEE. 23 floor was laid in puncheons logs hewn on one side. He had hewed enough to cover all but a four feet square hole in the centre, this was left open, and being convenient, was used as a receptacle for offal and a lounging place for dogs, of which I subsequently ascertained there are always a host about every Indian house. One can judge of the atmosphere of such a place. Here they ate, drank and slept, and as philosophers say that man's comfort consists in his idea of what constitutes comfort, managed to live. One of the squaws made coffee in an iron skillet, stirring it with an oaken paddle ; when poured out it was of the consis- tency of corn gruel, but having called for it, I gulped it down for fear of giving offence, and paying my dime took my depar- ture ; my opinion, however, formed at the time, I have had no occasion to change from subsequent observations among them. Our road, after leaving the prairie, ran over a succession of rough stony hills, covered with low oak trees. In descending one, the foremost wagon was disabled by the breaking of an axle-tree, and as the road was too narrow to pass, we were obliged to look out for camping ground, where there was water and grass to last until the damage could be repaired. These we found a quarter of a mile in advance, in a swamp, on the banks of the Brazil ; so unhitching our oxen and unsaddling horses, we prepared to encamp. Shortly after a severe rain storm set in, so that with wet, gnats and mosquitoes, &c., the evening promised to be anything but pleasant, when just as we began to feel very melan- 24 NOTES TAKEN. choly, I thought I heard a familiar voice, and going to the door of the tent, who should I meet but my old friend S. H s, whom I had not seen for sixteen years. He was on his way to Fort Washita, and having been thrown from his horse in the prairie the horse escaping had made his way on foot to our camp stange coincidences happen in life, but this was a joyful one for he and I, that after so many years and changes in fortune, we should meet by accident in this wild Indian country, to fight over our battles by the camp fire's light. Had he dropped from the clouds, I could not have been more surprised, certainly not more delighted, and in spite of rain and insects, we spent a lively evening. We supplied him with a horse, and he remained with us several days. June 5th. Repairs to the broken wagon detained us until a late hour this morning. We got off at ten, A. M., and crossing the swollen Brazil, passed through several short prairies variegated with the wild sun-flower, marygold and wild-rose. A few hours brought us to the Narrows, where the road ran through a rugged mountain gorge, very difficult for wagons. The locality is interesting from its geological formation. We found a vein of bituminous coal seventeen inches thick, and numerous fossils of limestone, the soil being argillaceous. Near the road, "we passed an emigrant's grave, covered with a pent house of logs, and marked by the tail- board of a wagon, nailed upon a stake, upon which was rudely written with tar, " George Bemshaus, born in Prussia, October INDIAN FARE. 25 13th, 1812 ; died, March 2d, 1854." Poor fellow ! all his hopes of home and fortune in the land of freedom, lay here on a barren hill-side in this wild Indian country, such is life, a vision, a struggle, a grave. Before leaving Fort Smith, the Captain had taken the precaution to procure some corn, to feed our oxen until they became accustomed to such hard work, instead of depending entirely upon grass diet. This supply was now exhausted, and H s and myself started in advance to procure more. Stopping at a noted place Tushcounti's we were told we could purchase some three miles farther on we found and I have since constantly observed that these people have no idea of distance. "When one gets information of this kind from them, it is best to multiply by two and add the original quantity, even then sometimes as an untutored and primitive idea of prayer. Whilst Major Neighbours was with the Tonkaways, a band of forty Camanches, headed by Mo-ko-cho-pee, came into camp, and were very exacting in their demands, ordering the Tonkaways to take care of their horses, and get them some supper, which was immediately done, and at the same time forty of their best looking girls were assigned to their guests. The Major endeavored to get: on good terms with the chief, told him he was Indian agent for Texas, and that the people of that State desired to keep peace with all the Indians, and especially with the Camanches. The chief replied, that the whites were great rascals, but 21 238 NOTES TAKEN. he believed the Major to be a very clever fellow, and he particularly admired the coat he wore, whereupon the Major pulled it off and gave it to him. Another then admired his vest, another his pantaloons, another his boots, and so on to his cravat and stockings, thus completely denuding the Major of a new outfit he had made in Washington, and leaving him in his shirt. He says, however, that naked though he was, he laughed heartily at the grotesque appearance of these fellows, strutting about, each with some portion of his ward- robe upon his tawny figure. They were so much pleased with his generosity, that they insisted upon his going along with them, and told him that if he would join their horse-stealing expedition, they would adopt him into their tribe, thinking he might prevent them from depredating, he went with them. A few days afterwards, they came to the rancho of an old Mexican, where the Major applied for some beef for them, telling the Mexican that he would see him paid ; the old man refused unless the money was paid beforehand, when the chief told him that he wanted two beeves, and if they were not forthcoming in half an hour, he would burn his rancho and kill his stock, it is needless to say the beeves were handed over. The Major remained a few days longer with them, but getting tired persuaded them to let him go. This anecdote illustrates how completely the Camanches have ruled in the plains, the terror of the other wandering tribes, and the scourge of the frontier settlements, their reign it is to be hoped is at an end. SIMILARITY TO ARABS. 239 In roaming over the plains of the South-west I was struck with their similarity to the steppes of Tartary and the deserts of Arabia, but not more so than with the resemblance of the inhabitants of both. The Nomades of the old world and the wild Indian of the prairie have no permanent abiding place, but where their lodges are pitched there are their homes. Their respective governments are patriarchal, sanctioned by the masses, and guided by the counsels of the elders. They never cultivate the soil, but subsist upon plunder and the chase. They are alike in their attachment to the horse and expertness in horse- manship. Coinciding in their views of the rights of property, they consider stealing from strangers as perfectly legitimate, are the greatest marauders on earth, and he who is most expert and successful is the greatest among them. In minor and domestic customs they are identical. Polygamy is allowed, they sit cross-legged upon mats, are very fond of tobacco, and saddle, bridle, and mount their horses from the right side, they also eat with their fingers. The estimation in which a successful robber is held, is illus- trated by an anecdote of an old chief, who said he had four sons who were a great comfort to him in his decliniug years, as they could steal more horses than any young men in the tribe. The favourite horse of the wild Indian is his constant com- panion, and it is when mounted and going through with his war-exercises that he shows to the best advantage. In the 240 NOTES TAKEN/ saddle from boyhood to old age, he acquires such skill and dexterity as to realize the appearance of the famed Centaur of mythology. Throwing himself entirely on one side of his horse, he will discharge his arrows with the utmost rapidity from beneath the animal's neck, whilst at full speed, shielding his person by the animal's body, and regaining his seat with no effort except the muscles of the leg. The bow is their favourite weapon, and being placed in the hands of the boys at an early age, they acquire extraordinary proficiency, rendering them not only successful in the chase but formidable in war. At short distances, they will frequently throw an arrow entirely through the huge carcass of the buffalo. With a shield made of untanned buffalo-hide, they protect themselves from this weapon in war, fastening it upon the left arm, so as not to interfere with the free use of the hand, and performing their feats of horsemanship ; equipped in this way, with the addition of a war-club, made of a heavy stone, grooved in around the centre to receive a withe bound with buffalo-hide. Brave to a fault, they always fight in the open prairie, charging boldly up to their enemies, discharging their missiles and advancing and retreating with great rapidity. Though kind and hospitable to strangers, and fraternal in their intercourse with each other, they are implacable in their hatred, and any insult offered can only be atoned for by blood. They believe in amulets and charms, and in dreams the REMARKS. 241 vapour-bath is usdti both for healing diseases and as a pre- paration for young men who wish to assume the rank of warriors. They have no idea of Christianity, nor have missionaries ever visited them, offering a wide field for those philanthropists who are now sending the blessings of the gospel to distant lands : here is a people at our very doors, to whom we may atone in this way, in some measure, for the wrongs they have suffered at our hands. Their present and former modes of subsistence being rapidly on the decline, it becomes an interesting question what is to become of these people. The views of the govern- ment, in this expedition, would ameliorate their condition, but their inherent dislike of the white man and his customs, are the great barrier to its success, and of three extremities my opinion is, they will adhere to their present life, and finally disappear entirely they must either work, steal, or starve; stealing being more congenial, they will continue to follow it until repeated chastisement accomplishes their destruction. 21* 242 NOTES TAKEN. * " CONCLUSION. October 1st. We were now about to separate, the excite- ment of the trip was over; the object of the expedition was attained, and we were all heartily tired and anxious once more for the comforts of home and the society of friends. We had been fortunate in not losing a man by sickness or casualty, and in this respect had great cause for congratu- lation after the great privations suffered, and the extent of country passed over. 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