o
2
NOTES TAKEN
DURING THE EXPEDITION
COMMANDED BY CAPT. R. B. MARCY, U. S. A.
THROUGH
UNEXPLORED TEXAS,
In the Summer and Fall of 1854.
BY W. B. PARKER
Attached to the Expedition.
PHILADELPHIA:
HAYES & ZELL, No. 193 MARKET STREET.
1856..
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865,
BY HAYES 4 ZELL,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the
Eastern District of Ponnsvlvnnia.
WHO A BAIRD, PRINTERS, SANSOM HT.
irwy
TO
MY WIFE
I Dedicate my Book.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTEE I.
OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION.
Act of Texas Legislature. Capt. Marcy ordered to take Command. De-
parture from New York. Arrival at Fort Smith. Fitting out the Train.
Departure for Fort Washita^ Incidents of the first two days
CHAPTEK II.
CHOCTAW AGENCY TO GAINES 7 CEEEK.
Arrive at the Agency. Law against introduction of whiskey among the
Indians. Ball play. Profanity among teamsters. Description of an Indian
family and hut. Accident to wagon. Meeting of friends. Pass the nar-
rows. Bituminous coal found. Emigrant's grave. Night in an Indian
hut. The sub-Chief and his peculiarities. Arrival at the Fouche Maliant.
Arrival at the Council-House. Singular pottery found. Description of
prairie scenery. Flies troublesome, Mutiny among teamsters. Detention
of train. Description of the Indian in his home 17
CHAPTER III.
GAINES' CREEK TO FORT WASHITA.
Horse bitten by a snake. Prairie flowers. Oats met with. White men
married to squaws. Law upon the subject. Fossils found. Coal abund-
yi CONTENTS.
ant. Soil, limestone. Army worm. Severe storm. Emigrants met with.
Arrive at the Boggy. Choctaw swamp. Wild cattle. Train stopped. Start
for the fort. Flies troublesome. Cross the Blue. Arrive at Washita 42
CHAPTER IV.
STAY AT FOET WASHITA.
Description of the Post Pleasant stay among our friends. Fossiliferous
Remains. Prairie, ancient bed of the ocean. Prairie Flowers. Timber
through the country. Indians met with. Soil of the Choctaw and Chicka-
saw Reserves. Remarks upon the Natives. Territorial Bill. Captain
leaves on 22d with part of the Train 53
CHAPTER Y.
FORT WASHITA TO LOWER CROSS TIMBERS.
Leave the Fort. Military escort Adventure with a Chickasaw. Arrive
at Red River. Scenes at the Ferry. Town of Preston. Desperate fight
Description of soil, Ac. Cross Big Mineral. Basin Spring. Distances on
Plains deceptive. Arrive at Lower Cross Timbers 67
CHAPTER VI.
LOWER CROSS TIMBERS TO UPPER CROSS TIMBERS.
Camp on Elm Fork of Trinity.-Independence day.-Arrival of Indian
huntrs.-Rmark* on the Delawares.-Arrival at Gainesville. Description
o Tornado. Funny scene in Gainesville. Last house in Texas. Parlanct
CONTENTS. Vll
of the settlers. Camp on the Trinity. Night march. Manner of tracking
horses by the Indians. First rattlesnake killed. Arrival at Upper Cross
Timbers 81
CHAPTER VII.
UPPER CROSS TIMBERS TO LITTLE WITCHITA.
Thoughts at Sunset. Enter the Timber. Camp fire half way. Old
soldier brought in. Jackson's Adventure. Singular Mounds. The Dela-
ware? in Camp. Sunset Scene. Arrive at Little Witchita
CHAPTER VIII.
LITTLE WITCHITA TO COTTON WOOD SPRING.
Curious phenomenon. Buffalo signs seen. History of the buffalo. Deer
bleat. Me?quite trees. Captain leaves for Belknap. Ox killed. Wolves
abundant. Indian relics found. Wild horse tracks seen. Wild passion
flower. Kickapoo camp. Arrive at Cotton Wood Spring 100
CHAPTER IX.
CAMP AT THE COTTON WOOD SPRING.
Officers leave. Description of Camp. Wild Indians come in. Treatment
of Squaws. Visit of the Indians. Indian Bivouac. Departure of Indians.
Captain and party arrive. Major Neighbours. Description of our Indian
Corps 110
Viii CONTENTS.
CHAPTEK X.
COTTON WOOD SPRING TO DIVIDING RIDGE.
Leave the road. Description of country from Red River. Stock raising
in Texas. Buck killed. Indian cookery. Description of Bluffs. Kickapoo
grave. Cactus seen. Deer called up by bleat. Mesquite Beans. Bridging
Ravines. Black Flies. Cross Crater. Snakes shot. Arrive at Little Witch-
ita. Mesquite Grass. Indian signs. Manner of lariating. Valley of Witch-
ita. Fine scenery on the Plains. Antelope killed. Anxiety about Horses.
Jackass Rabbit killed. Breezes on the Plains. Exploring Party leave.
Arrive at branch of Big Witchita. Repairing Wagons. Intense weather.
Effect of the atmosphere. Oxen missing. Reach the Little Witchita.
Exploring Party return. Insects on the Plains. Fawn chase. Camanche
grave. Reach the Divide 118
CHAPTER XI.
DIVIDING RIDGE TO THE HEAD OF THE BRAZOS.
Water scarce. Iron and Copper found. Black Lizard. Scorpion caught.
Camanche signal. Preparations for exploring party with pack mules, &c.
Party leave. Antelopes seen. Barren country. Bad water. Filling water-
acka. Witchita trail. Conner's sagacity. Chapparal cock. Reach Big Wit-
chita. Quick sands. Accidents frequent. Dexterity of Indians in skinning
deer. Bluffs met with. Bivouac on bluff. Fire in bivouac. Twilight des-
cribed. Rattlesnake killed. Gypsum found. Stream crooked. Bitter
water. Sickness in the party. Large grasshopper found. Insects scarce.
Head of Big Witchita. Travelling South. Limestone water found. Ca-
manche grave. Singular ridge. Man lost. Bivouac on Brazos. Alarm in
bivouacs-Prairie Dog town. Catfish Creek. Camanche trail. Rough
country. Singular knobs. Hard times. Man very ill. Gypsum mountain.
CTOM fork of Bra**. Better country. Prairie Dogs. Table Mountain.
Arrive on LUno Eactaeado. Head of the Brazoa ,.. 141
CONTENTS. IX
CHAPTEK XII.
HEAD OF THE BRAZOS TO FLAT ROCK CREEK.
Halt on the Llano Esctacado. Grand View. Descend from the plain.
Long Ride. Miserable Bivouac. Curious sight. Panther Chase. Terrible
Storm. Severe sufferings. Indian Shealing. Pleasant dreams. Water
plenty. Singular bush. Chain of lakes. Beautiful spring. Pleasant
Bivouac. Mesquite Gum. Eickapoos. Pish shot. Manner of spearing
fish. Reach our Camp. Move Camp. Flat Rock Creek. 162
CHAPTER XIII.
FLAT ROCK CREEK TO CLEAR FORK OF THE BRAZOS.
Camp in flames. Hot weather. Great change. Accident to Train
Jacobs leaves. Jackson the Delaware. First Camanches met. Description
of Ke-tum-e-see and wives. Talk held. Camp at Double Mountain Fork.
Chief and wiveg leave. Large Cactus met with. Reach the Clear Fork.
Stem's Rancho. Indian Justice. Camp on Clear Fork.- 176
CHAPTER XIV.
CAMP ON CLEAR FORK OF THE BRAZOS.
Sub-chiefs arrive. Incidents with the chiefs. Story of the German
settlement. Exploring the country. Se-na-co and party arrive. Des-
cription of the party. Interesting woman. Invalid discribed. Mexican
boy. Naroni and his costume. Camanche women. Camanche lance and
shield. Feeding the Indians. Toilette of the men described. Indian
x CONTENTS.
dance.-Drewing skins. Council held. Presents distributed. Women
bathing. Plan of hardening horses' hoofs. Little Mexican. Indians
leave. Remarks upon traders. New species of Squirrels. Ke-tum-e-see
and the invalid. Excitement in camp. Move camp 188
CHAPTER XV.
CAMP ON THE CLEAR FORK TO CAMP ON THE LOWER BRAZOS.
Survey concluded. Leave for Fort Belknap. Description of country
passed over. Manner of designating Indian Camps by the Delawares.
Arrive at Fort Belknap. Indian Council held. Bear Head the interpreter.
Description of Fort Belknap, Lieut. Givings, a true sportsman. Puma
chaae. March to Caddo Village. Description of the Village. Jim Shaw
and his family. Grasses met with on our trip. Finish the Survey. Leave
for home 212
CHAPTER XVI.
*
THE INDIANS OF THE COUNTRY.
Names of the tribes. John Conner the Delaware Guide. Customs
among the Delawares. Traits of character with anecdotes illustrative.
Descriptions of other tribes. Creek green-corn dance and feast. Traditions
among the tribes. Incidents of the Quapaws. The Camanches, number
and division. Supposed origin. Religious ideas. Contempt for the whites.
Treatment of women. Customs among them. Their habit*. Anecdote*
of the Camauchea.-General Remarks ... 221
PKEFACE.
THESE desultory Notes, taken merely to refresh my memory
when recurring to scenes so fraught, to me, with interesting
reminiscences, would never have met the public eye had it
not been for the kind and flattering solicitations of friends
who have perused my journal ; and if, by putting them in
print, I can excite one-half the interest and pleasure with the
general reader which the expedition gave me, I shall be amply
repaid for the time spent and the care taken in writing my
book.
In the arrangement of my work my object is twofold, viz.,
to impart all tlie information I can respecting the physical
character of the country passed through on the whole line of
our march from the frontier, and to entertain, by relating from
personal observation, scenes and incidents of daily occurrence,
whilst roaming through so wild a region as the far South-
West.
Associated as I was with men of long experience .iu the
performance of similar duties, my observations have been
aided by scientific knowledge, whilst the protection of a gov-
ernment escort gave opportunity for close inspection, without
the harrassing anticipation of attack and disaster a great
barrier to thorough investigation of a country by private
parties.
Xii PREFACE.
Many of my scenes and incidents in prairie and Indian life
are a personal narrative. Where not. they are taken from the
mouths of those who were witnesses or actors in them, and
whose long experience gives them a right to full confidence on
my part.
As a personal narrative, I have not thought proper to be
minute, but in mentioning soil, climate and natural history
have spoken in general terms, except a few digressions, which
I thought necessary to fully understand the subject.
This is now the fourth expedition that Captain Marcy has
accomplished, with honour and credit to himself, and to the
satisfaction of the government. Major Neighbours had lived
the best years of his life upon the frontier, and had spent four-
teen years in intimate relation with the wild Indians. Dr. Shu-
mard had the experience of the Red River trip under Captain
Marcy, besides being well versed in geology, mineralogy, and
natural history ; whilst the corps of Indian hunters and guides
were themselves efficient by birth and habit, and led by a Del-
aware of intelligence and great experience, whose traits and
stories of Indian life were imparted with freedom, and every
reason for full reliability.
With such advantages, I trust I have made a book, reliable
for what information it may contain, and entertaining, from
the incidents I have endeavoured to combine with what might
be otherwise considered dry detail.
FORT SMITH TO THE CHOCTAW AGENCY.
CHAPTER I.
OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION.
Act of Texas Legislature. Capt. Marcy ordered to take Command. Departure
from New York. Arrival at Fort Smith. Fitting out the Train. Departure
for Fort "Washita. Incidents of the first two days.
THE great drawback to rapid settlement beyond the frontier
of the South and West, is the depredations committed by the
roving bands of Indians, who subsist in that region. These
people live an entirely nomadic life, have no settled homes,
wander from place to place over the vast plains in search of
game or plunder, and living in this precarious way, are neces-
sarily often reduced to a state of starvation. As they live
entirely upon flesh, large quantities are of course consumed,
and when reduced to short allowance, they eat horses and
mules. This, together with the necessity of having animals
to transport themselves and "families, also to use in war and
the chase, induces constant forays upon exposed situations,
when murder, rapine and captivity are the inevitable results
to the hapless settler. Many well cultivated spots have thus
been broken up and abandoned, and the continuance of the
evil retards emigration and euterprize to such an extent that
large tracts of the most fertile kind are left tenantless.
To remove this scourge from her territory, the State of
10 NOTES TAKEN.
Texas, by an act of her Legislature, approved Feb. 6th, ] 854,
appropriated eighteen square leagues of her unlocated lands,
to form a reserve, for the settlement of all the Indians within
her borders, on condition that the United States government
would cause these lands to be located and surveyed, and
would induce the Indians to settle upon them, confine them-
selves to their limits, go to farming, and quit their wandering
and predatory habits, the United States government also
agreeing to send agricultural implements, seeds, men to teach
the Indians to farm and take care of stock, and subsistence
for the Indians until a crop was raised.
The Secretary of War, and Secretary of the Interior,
issued orders in April of the same year, to Captain Marcy,
then in New York, to repair forthwith to Fort Smith, on the
frontier of Arkansas, and organize an expedition to carry
out the provisions of this act.
The previous reputation of this officer, his long experience
and thorough knowledge of prairie and frontier life, eminently
qualified him for this duty, connected with which he was also
required to penetrate the terra incognita at the head waters
of the Big Washita and Brazos rivers, explore these streams
to their sources, and ascertain the description of country
where they take their rise.
The long and friendly intimacy that had existed between
the Captain and myself, afforded me an opportunity to realize
what has been to me the dream of my whole life, viz., a tour
over the vast plains of the far South-west ; and it was with
FORT SMITH. 11
no little pleasure and self-congratulation that I availed
myself of it, as I should have, not only an intimate friend
of noble spirit, energy and experience for my companion and
director, but also the sanction and protection of the govern-
ment. As may be supposed, no persuasion was necessary,
and though the time was short, my preparations were soon
made.
Captain Marcy's orders arrived on the 26th of April, and
on the 4th of May we left New York, arriving in Fort Smith
on the 18th, when the Captain, with his accustomed energy,
aided by the efficient Quartermaster, Captain French, imme-
diately set about his preparations, and with such perseve-
rance and success, that by the 1st of June we were ready for
our long journey.
The town of Fort Smith, (in the suburbs of which stands
the garrison,) is a place of considerable commercial impor-
tance, doing a large Indian and up river trade. It stands
upon* the Arkansas river, near the mouth of the Poteau,
and contains about twenty-five hundred inhabitants.
The garrison is well and substantially built of brick, and
was at the time, the head quarters of the seventh infantry,
commanded by Colonel Wilson, who, during the Mexican war
was governor of Yera Cruz. This officer, took a deep interest
in the expedition, (as he does in everything national,) and to
him, we were indebted for many civilities, during our short
stay.
The Captain here secured the services of Dr. G. G
12 NOTES TAKEN.
Shumard (a resident physician of Fort Smith,) who accom-
panied him on his Red river exploration, as surgeon and
naturalist, and joined us in the same capacity. He was an
ardent enthusiast in the cause of science and, most indefati-
gable in its pursuit.
By orders, we were to get our military escort at Fort
Arbuckle, about one hundred and twenty miles west, but the
Captain determined, to march with our train through the
Choctaw county to Fort Washita and meet the escort there,
as the road was smoother, and more travelled. a great differ-
ence in our favor, with our heavy train.
June 1st. We left Fort Smith at noon, and crossing the
Poteau river, immediately in rear of the garrison, entered
upon the Choctaw Reserve, " en route " for Fort Washita,
one hundred and eighty miles distant.
Our train consisted of nine wagons, containing provisions,
ammunition, camp equipage, small stores, and every thing
necessary for our journey. Each of these was drawn by
three yokes of oxen ; we had, besides, ten horses, an ambu-
ance drawn by two mules, and fifteen men, as teamsters,
lartificers, cooks and hostlers.
The road, which was narrow, with but a single track, ran
through a rich alluvial bottom, overgrown with a dense,
luxuriant growth of wild cane and immense cotton-wood trees,
and owing to the prevalence of late rains, was one quagmire
for ten miles.
Our oxen, (unaccustomed to their drivers, and to a service
FIRST ENCAMPMENT. 13
which, from the depth of the road, was so entirely different
from steady farm work,) proved very refractory, so it was
not long before two wagons were broken down, and to add
to our difficulties, a violent storm arose, of wind, rain, hail,
thunder, and lightning, fully realizing the truth of the old
adage, " it never rains but it pours."
Owing to these circumstances, and finding no convenient
t
place to encamp, (the whole country being flooded,) it was not
until ten P. M., that we reached a short prairie, twelve miles
upon our route, where wet and hungry, with the rain pouring
down in torrents, we found that the disabled wagons (which
we were obliged to leave in the swamp until they could be
repaired,) contained our camp baggage and rations, so that
we were obliged to resign ourselves to a supperless bed, upon
the wet grass, until the morning, thus making my initiation
into camp life, rather laborious and exciting, but far from
pleasant.
An incident during our march, amused and cheered me
very much.
Whilst riding along by the train, my ears were startled
by an old familiar air, and I found the amateur was one of
our ox drivers. He was carolling a moonlight love ditty,
whilst wading mid leg in mud. Sentiment under difficulties ;
I knew not which to admire most, the song, or the happy
spirits of the singer ; he seemed to admire, and feel quite
satisfied with both, judging from the hearty will with which
he appealed to moonlight, music, love and flowers. Surely, a
2*
14 NOTES TAKEN.
poetical ox driver is an anomaly for a more unpoetical
occupation cannot be imagined.
June 2d. Towards morning, the storm subsided, but when
day dawned, four horses and one yoke of oxen were missing.
I mounted my horse to search for them, having previously
despatched a party to assist in getting up the wagons from
the swamp. In the course of my ride, I met with a very
agreeable surprise at an Indian house by the roadside, where
I stopped to make some inquiries.
My attention had been arrested in passing this house,
during the storm- and darkness of the previous night, by a
merry ringing laugh, and cheerful conversation. On stopping
this morning, I was met by a kind and courteous welcome
from one of the inmates, (whose voice I recognized as the
same,) who hearing my story, invited me to breakfast, and
made me quite forget my cares, in the charm of her society.
A prairie flower, brought up and educated upon the frontier,
she had never been in a town of any size in her life, but
though ignorant of the world, and forms of society, I found
her a proud specimen of native grace, intelligence, and
affability. A Cherokee, she owed her improvement in mind,
to the excellent institution founded by Ross, at Talaqua, her
manners, however, were the result of no convention, but the
pift of birth and blood. The daughter of a distinguished
chief of her tribe, her soul was full of the ancient nobility of
her race, whilst filled with indignation at their wrongs and
present degradation, and her eye kindled, and her tongue
INDIAN BELLE. 15
became eloquent whilst dwelling npon their ancient grandeur.
I was charmed beyond measure, surprised to a degree, for
with a majority, I had hitherto considered Indian worth and
character, a matter of tradition ; it was like sunset upon a
ruin, or like the last strains of distant melody, which linger
upon the ear as if loathe to leave. Subsequent experience has
proven to me, however, that she was but one in a thousand,^
the death knell of Indian greatness has sounded, and ere long
he will have vanished forever from the scene,
The wagons coming up I was obliged to leave, when she
proposed to accompany me a short distance, as she wished to
visit a sick person in the neighborhood. Taking down an
excellent double barrelled gun, and equipping herself regu-
larly for hunting, with powder and shot flasks, gamebag, &c,,
she smiled at my surprised look, and remarked, (i I hope to
have the opportunity to show you I can use them," and so
she did, as a squirrel and two quails were the result of her
unerring aim and steady nerves, in the short space, half a
mile, that she accompanied me. With this double battery
of eyes and arms, wo betide a susceptible bachelor, so thought
I, but in my case it was Ulysses and Calypso, so bidding
adieu to my quondam syren, I galloped off to the unromantic
drudgery of the camp. Arriving there, I found the missing
oxen and horses had been brought in, and all hands busy
in preparing a hearty meal, after which tents were pitched,
and we spent a comfortable night.
The prairie, on which we were encamped, wag about
16 NOTES TAKEN.
three miles wide, destitute of trees, but covered with rich
grass, and beautiful flowers, among which the prairie pink,
shone conspicuous, also a species of blue flag, very delicate,
I made some selections of both. The soil was a dark loam.
NOTES TAKEN. 17
CHAPTER II.
CHOCTAW AGENCY TO GAINES* CREEK.
Arrive at the Agency. Law against introduction of whiskey among the Indians.
Ball play. Profanity among teamsters. Description of an Indian family and
hut. Accident to wagon. Meeting of friends. Pass the narrows. Bituminous-
coal found. Emigrants grave. Night in an Indian hut. The suh-Chief and
his peculiarities. Arrival at the Fouche Maliant. Arrival at the Council-
House. Singular pottery found. Description of prairie scenery. Flies trou-
hlesoma Mutiny among teamsters. Detention of train. Description of the
Indian in his home.
June 3rd. A start at noon to day, brought us to the Choc-
taw Agency at five P. M., where we witnessed accidentally
a painful, though necessary execution of the laws of the
United States, against the introduction of whiskey among the
Indians. The penalty is severe, viz., fine, imprisonment,
confiscation of the whiskey, and in case of negroes, flogging,
at the discretion of the authorities. We had previously seen
two negroes chained together by the neck, and driven along
the road, by several men ; these proved to be the offenders,
the one a freeman, the other a slave. It is optional with the
owner, to allow the slave to be whipped or not, (the alternative
being expulsion from the nation,) and in this instance he
declined, but the free negro was undergoing the infliction of
sixty lashes, laid on with an unmerciful hand, and to judge by
his groans and cries, the punishment was full expiation for the
offence.
This law has had a very good effect, and enlisting as it does
18 NOTES TAKEN.
the pride and energies of the Indians themselves, it creates a
spirit of emulation among them, in this way, viz., a police
force is organized, called the Light Horse, under pay from
the general government. Their duty is a general one, but
particularly to seize and destroy all liquor introduced upon,
the reserve either for sale or private use. To be Captain of
the Light Horse is a post of great honor, and is a source of
much rivalry among the young men of the nation, thus
thoroughly identifying them with this praiseworthy effort to
remove a scourge from the red man, more terrible in its
consequences to him than death. The same law is enforced,
in regard to all Indians within the boundaries of the States
and Territories, and though often evaded has had an infinite
salutary effect in reducing crime and distress among them.
The little town of Scullyville, where the agency is located,
is a collection of log tenements, principally stores, where a
large Indian trade is done. It stands about a mile from an
extensive prairie, the road to which, like that from our late
encampment, ran over a succession of hills of sand and clay
covered with low post oaks.
Upon entering upon the prairie, we observed in the
distance a crowd of natives in gay clothing, the brilliant
colours blending with the verdure, and making at sunset a
truly picturesque scene. Riding up, we witnessed a scene
never to be forgotten. It was a ball-play. Described, as
this sport has been, by the able pencil of Catlin, description
falls far short of reality. About six hundred men, women
BALL PLAY. 19
and children, were assembled, all dressed in holiday costume,
and all as intent upon the game as it is possible to be where
both pleasure attd interest combine. The interest, is one tribe
against another, or one county of the same tribe, against a
neighboring county ; the pleasure, that which savages always
take in every manly and athletic sport. In this instance the
contestants were all Choctaws, practising for their annual
game with the Creeks, and I was struck with the interest
taken by all the lookers on, in the proficiency of each of the
players. About sixty on each side were engaged in this
exciting play, than which no exercise can be more violent
nor better calculated to develope muscle and harden the
frame. Each player provides himself with what are called
ball-sticks. They are in shape like a large spoon, made of a
piece of hickory about three feet long, shaved thin for about
nine inches at the end forming the spoon, then bent round
until brought into shape, the end securely fastened to the
handle by buckskin thongs, the under side or bottom of the
spoon covered with a coarse net work of the same material.
He has one in each hand, and the ball about the size of a
large marble, is held between the spoons and thrown with an
overhand rotary motion, separating the spoons, when the top
of the circle is reached.
The game is this Two poles are set up, each about seven-
teen feet high and a foot apart at the bottom, widening to
three feet at top. At the distance of two hundred yards, two
similar poles are set up facing these. To strike the poles, or
20 NOTES TAKEN.
throw the ball between them counts one, and twelve is game,
An umpire and starter takes the ball, advances to a mark
equi-distant from each end of the course, and throws it ver-
tically into the air; it is caught, or falling upon the ground
is eagerly struggled for and thrown toward the desired point.
We saw some throw the ball the whole distance.
At each brace of poles, judges are stationed, who, armed
with pistols, keep close watch, and whenever a count is made
fire their pistols. The ball is then taken and started anew.
Among the players, are the runners, the throwers, and
those who throw themselves in the way and baffle the
player who succeeds in getting the ball.
The runners are the light active men, the throwers heavier,
and then the fat men, who can neither throw nor run, stand
ready to seize a thrower or upset a runner.
When a runner gets the ball, he starts at full speed towards the
poles ; if intercepted, he throws the ball to a friend, a thrower,
perhaps, he is knocked down, then begins the struggle for the
ball ; a scene of pushing, jostling, and striking with the ball
sticks, or perhaps a wrestle or two, all attended with hard
knocks and harder falls. Whilst looking on, one man was
pitched upon his head and had his collar bone broken ;
another, had part of his scalp knocked off, but it was all taken
in good humour, and what, among white men, would inevitably
lead to black eyes and bloody noses, here ended with the
passage or possession of the ball, a good lesson in forbearance
and amiability, worthy of imitation.
BALL PLAY. 21
The combatants are stripped entirely naked except a breech
cloth and moccasins, and gaudily painted ; they fasten at the
centre and small of the back, a horse's tail, gaily painted and
arrayed like a tail that has been knicked by a jockey ; some
wore bouquets of flowers instead of the tail, but these were
evidently the exquisites of the party, which the rings worn
in the ears, nose and under lips, and manner of arranging the
hair one having it cut to a point and drawn down over his
right eye, whilst his left eye was painted green clearly proved.
The grotesque appearance of the players, the excitement, yells
and shouts of the crowd, old and young, and the gaudy finery
displayed, all combined to make an indelible impression upon
our memories. The aged men of the tribe were the most noisy
and excited. One old fellow, blind of an eye and seventy
years old, was quite wild with excitement ; shaking his red
handkerchief, he continued to shout, hoo, ka, li hoo, ka, li
catch, catch, when the ball was thrown, and chi, ca, ma,
good, when a count was made, until quite hoarse. Doubtless,
like the old war horse at the sound of the bugle, he felt all the
fire of his youth, as he entered into the full spirit of this truly
and only Indian sport.
With reluctance we were obliged to leave for our quiet
camp in the same prairie, and until nightfall, could hear the
yells and laughter of the retiring crowd.
June 4th. This (the first extensive prairie we had met) was
about seven miles wide, surrounded by timber, and covered
with flowers, among which the marigold and clematis were
3
22 NOTES TAKEN.
profuse; the soil was quite sandy. At dawn of day we
were again " en route." It was a beautiful sight in the dim
light and bracing air of morning, to see the long line of
white covered wagons rolling quietly over the slopes of the
prairie ; the lowing of the oxen, the snorting of the horses,
the shouts and cracking of whips by the drivers, with all the
bustle of breaking up camp made np an enlivening scene,
which must be experienced to be enjoyed. One thing however
marred its enjoyment to me, and that was the awful profanity
of the drivers. I have often since had occasion to comment
upon and reprove this among this class of men, but never has
it struck me as so ill-timed and unnatural as when indulged in,
in the midst of natural beauties, which might fire a dying
hermit ; under such circumstances blasphemy (a practice
senseless, sinful and unnecessary) is like a volcano, devas-
tating the fair fields, and sunny vineyards, of Italian climes,
harrowing to the soul, revolting to nature.
Being quite unwell the result of the severe exposure of
the last few days, I stopped in the course of the morning at
an Indian hut to get some coffee, and had an opportunity to
make some observations upon the indolence, carelessness, want
of calculation and slovenly habits of this semibarbarous
people. The man had built his hut, which was new, about
half as large as was necessary to accommodate his family,
consisting of five adults and four children, and even this he
was too indolent to finish. It had but one room, built of logs,
roofed with a rude clap board, split from sapling oak. The
INDIAN COFFEE. 23
floor was laid in puncheons logs hewn on one side. He had
hewed enough to cover all but a four feet square hole in the
centre, this was left open, and being convenient, was used as
a receptacle for offal and a lounging place for dogs, of which
I subsequently ascertained there are always a host about
every Indian house. One can judge of the atmosphere of
such a place. Here they ate, drank and slept, and as
philosophers say that man's comfort consists in his idea of
what constitutes comfort, managed to live.
One of the squaws made coffee in an iron skillet, stirring it
with an oaken paddle ; when poured out it was of the consis-
tency of corn gruel, but having called for it, I gulped it down
for fear of giving offence, and paying my dime took my depar-
ture ; my opinion, however, formed at the time, I have had no
occasion to change from subsequent observations among them.
Our road, after leaving the prairie, ran over a succession of
rough stony hills, covered with low oak trees. In descending
one, the foremost wagon was disabled by the breaking of an
axle-tree, and as the road was too narrow to pass, we were
obliged to look out for camping ground, where there was
water and grass to last until the damage could be repaired.
These we found a quarter of a mile in advance, in a
swamp, on the banks of the Brazil ; so unhitching our oxen
and unsaddling horses, we prepared to encamp. Shortly
after a severe rain storm set in, so that with wet, gnats
and mosquitoes, &c., the evening promised to be anything
but pleasant, when just as we began to feel very melan-
24 NOTES TAKEN.
choly, I thought I heard a familiar voice, and going to the
door of the tent, who should I meet but my old friend S.
H s, whom I had not seen for sixteen years. He was
on his way to Fort Washita, and having been thrown from
his horse in the prairie the horse escaping had made his
way on foot to our camp stange coincidences happen in life,
but this was a joyful one for he and I, that after so many
years and changes in fortune, we should meet by accident in
this wild Indian country, to fight over our battles by the camp
fire's light. Had he dropped from the clouds, I could not
have been more surprised, certainly not more delighted, and
in spite of rain and insects, we spent a lively evening. We
supplied him with a horse, and he remained with us several
days.
June 5th. Repairs to the broken wagon detained us until
a late hour this morning. We got off at ten, A. M., and
crossing the swollen Brazil, passed through several short
prairies variegated with the wild sun-flower, marygold and
wild-rose. A few hours brought us to the Narrows, where
the road ran through a rugged mountain gorge, very difficult
for wagons. The locality is interesting from its geological
formation. We found a vein of bituminous coal seventeen
inches thick, and numerous fossils of limestone, the soil being
argillaceous. Near the road, "we passed an emigrant's grave,
covered with a pent house of logs, and marked by the tail-
board of a wagon, nailed upon a stake, upon which was rudely
written with tar, " George Bemshaus, born in Prussia, October
INDIAN FARE. 25
13th, 1812 ; died, March 2d, 1854." Poor fellow ! all his hopes
of home and fortune in the land of freedom, lay here on a
barren hill-side in this wild Indian country, such is life, a
vision, a struggle, a grave.
Before leaving Fort Smith, the Captain had taken the
precaution to procure some corn, to feed our oxen until they
became accustomed to such hard work, instead of depending
entirely upon grass diet. This supply was now exhausted,
and H s and myself started in advance to procure more.
Stopping at a noted place Tushcounti's we were told we
could purchase some three miles farther on we found and
I have since constantly observed that these people have no
idea of distance. "When one gets information of this kind
from them, it is best to multiply by two and add the original
quantity, even then sometimes as <in our case falling short
of the fact. "We rode twelve miles and then stopped for the
night at an Indian hut. As we had eaten nothing since
morning, we asked if we could have eggs and chickens for
supper, having seen plenty of the feathered bipeds about, and
were answered in the affirmative. With appetites sharpened
by our exercise and long fast, we came to supper and found
the eggs served up on the only pie'ce of family plate, 'tis true,
a glass dish, but fried in tallow, the chickens fried in the same,
and a dish of sausages, made of the intestines of the hog, dried
in the sun, a meal which a man might eat when in imminent
danger of starvation, but which our day's fast had not quite
toned our appetites to. We took a cup of coffee the only
3*
26 NOTES TAKEN.
thing swallowdble, and went to the door to smoke and look
at the moon, the odour of the viands being quite sufficient.
Next, came our accommodations for the night. The hut had
no windows in it, but to avoid stumbling over the living,
snoring crew upon the floor, a pine knot blazed upon the
hearth, and here, stowed in one corner, lay the Indian, his
squaw, his daughter about nineteen years old, two young
papooses, a negro slave with an infant at the breast, and two
dogs, whilst on a kind of shelf, raised about two feet from the
floor, were perched the writer and his friend, with our saddles
for pillows, and our horse blankets for covering, for this privi-
lege we paid two dollars.*
June 6th. When morning dawned, we wished to make our
usual ablutions, but found that basin and towels, were not
known in the domestic list ; however the squaw offered us an
old bake pan and a piece of cotton cloth, which she pulled off
of a bundle in the hut, we declined the novelty, and preferred
*In this country, and all through the South and West, prices are much
higher than in the East, and from what seems to me, to be an unfair cause,
via., the smallest general currency, is the dime, but where five and three cent
pieces are used, they are taken each to be of the value of the other ; now I
noticed in a town in Arkansas, where a shrewd fellow took advantage of this, in
this way : In making change he would be sure to give three cent pieces where
fives were due, and take fives where he was entitled to but threes; then, when
vixiting New Orleans, to make purchase of goods, he would buy up three cent
pieces to use in the same way. To be sure, it was but a small business, but
turned out a large per centagc in proportion.
Cents are never seen, and thus, though you get nothing better for your
money, you pay just this proportionate advance for it. Whether this arises
from the greater abundance of money, or the enlarged views of the population,
I loavn fr those to judge who are better nlilo than myself.
THE SUB-CHIEF. 27
contenting ourselves until we joined the train. It was neces-
sary to have some breakfast, however ; so taking the experience
of the supper for our guide, we superintended the boiling of
some eggs in the shells, and with some corn dodgers and coffee
made out very well.
Much to our surprise and satisfaction, our quondam host,
who enjoyed the high-sounding name of George Washington,
stirred himself this morning and procured from a neighbor
what corn we wanted, so we waited here until the train came
up. This neighbor called over to see us, and afforded us
much amusement. He was a sub-chief of his tribe, and was
indulging in one of his periodical debauches. ' " I am a first
rate fellow but I must have whiskey," said he; " how often do
you get drunk ?" said I. He replied, " once every three
months." " How long does it last ?" Ans. " About two months."
" Well then, you are drunk more than half the time ?" Ans.
11 Oh yes, nearly all the time, but then the old woman, she
keeps things in order." So it is with the victim of self-indul-
gence, in savage, as well as civilized life, the old woman, is
left to keep things in order.
Happening to mention the ball-play, he fired up at once, as
it turned out he was quite a sporting man, and was in the
habit of betting heavily upon the result of these contests, (at
which, by the way, large sums of money, also horses and mules,
change hands.) and of course was well booked up. " Them
Scullyville fellows can't come it over our county," said he,
' We can just take and lam them out of their boots." Ha,
28 NOTES TAKEN.
ha, the Bowery among the Indians, we both laughed heartily
at the idea, and were not a little surprised to find he had
never been off the Eeserve in his life, so that slang seems to
be a native gift. After a few more swigs at his friend's jug,
the sub-chief retired to the bushes, if not great like kings,
" still quite as glorious, o'er all the ills of life victorious," and,
judging by his sonorous snoring, would soon be prepared for a
new attack upon the enemy.
Soon after the sub-chief's departure, the train came up,
when we joined and crossed the Fouche Maliant, a stream
which empties into Ked Eiver, remembered as the vicinity
where a horrid murder was committed during the march of
the escort to the expedition to New Mexico, in 1849. This
murder, illustrating, as it does, the demoniac spirit of the
Indian when actuated by revenge, is worthy of note.
The circumstances are these, and show clearly that Lex
Talionis is de facto the only law recognized by the In-
dian.
One of the soldiers, attached to the escort, killed a hog
belonging to a family in the neighborhood, at which they were
greatly enraged. When the officer in command, the lamented
H n, was informed of the matter, he returned and paid
an exorbitant price for the animal. This seemed satisfactory,
but on the following morning, two of the party were found
murdered with tomahawks. The supposition is, that emis-
saries were sent out (in revenge,) and sufficient time did not
allow of their rocal after the hog was paid for.
FOUCHE MALIANT. 29
The young officer mentioned, afterwards met with a
tragical end, from his misplaced confidence in the Indians
in New Mexico.
A man of extraordinary amiability and goodness of heart,
he had often expressed his conviction that the Indian only
wanted a display of confidence reposed in him by the white
man to cause him to fraternize. Fatal mistake ! and one that
cost him his life. Some months after the event recorded
above, he left camp, and not returning at the time expected,
search was made for him, when his dead body was found,
scalped and stripped.
Everything indicated that he had endeavoured to carry out
his favourite theory, the commanding officer of the expedition
having made a thorough examination of the ground where
the murder was committed, with the aid of his Indian guide,
(the results of which are given in the note appended,*) and
followed the murderers forty miles, when, owing to the disabled
condition of his horses and mules, he was obliged to return.
* The sagacity of the Delaware guide is shown in the minute details of his
report of this investigation. The result is as follows :
This murder was committed by two men. They had two mules and one horse
with them. They came down upon their victim at full gallop, but finding that
he was not disposed to fly, but on the contrary walked his horse towards them,
they also pulled up to a walk. The parties met and rode a short distance
together, then dismounted, and seating themselves on the grass, smoked
together. Here they got possession of his rifle, on pretence, as supposed, of
examining it. As this was the only weapon he had with him, they then over-
powered, tied him, and placing him upon his horse, led the horse between them
into some timber, skirting a ravine, where one falling behind, shot him in the
back of his head, the ball found in the brain, indicating that the deed was com-
30 NOTES TAKEN.
Subsequent experience has proved to me that the invari-
able rules for safety, that should be followed by single indivi-
duals or small parties, when away from camp, and meeting
parties of Indians, is to give them a wide berth, and for this
reason if sheer plunder is not the object of attack, according
to their custom, young men cannot hold any position in their
tribe, until they can show a scalp, and have stolen a number
of horses. In consequence of this, two or three will start
together, and sometimes be absent for a year, until they can
return with these evidences of their manliness.
The best plan is either to make the escape to camp, or else
preserving a bold front, take care to have the first shot.
Had young H n observed these directions, so often
impressed upon him by his experienced commanding officer, he
might now be living, an ornament to the service, to which he
was a great loss, as he was mounted upon a horse remarkable
for fleetness, and was a crack shot with the rifle.
A few miles travel brought us to the deserted Council
House of the nation, at the time occupied by an Indian
mitted with his own rifle. Hastily stripping him, they scalped him, threw his
body into a ravine, and taking everything but one boot and his saddle, made
their escape. Some miles farther they halted, and lighting a fire, had prepared
eome meat for cooking, as the raw meat was found spitted and the fire smoul.
dering. They left here very hastily, as a pair of moccasins, a lariat, and some
other articles were dropped in their hurry, occasioned doubtless by hearing the
report of the howitzer which was fired from camp at sun-down as a guide
to the missing officer.
Minute as these details are, they are true, as the murderers are known, and
will sooner or later be brought to justice. All the Indian had to direct him
wu the signs in the grass, Ac.
PRAIRIE SCENERY. 31
family, the place of assembling in Council having been
changed to Doaxville, farther south,
It was a long, rambling building, built of logs, and not
different, except in size, from their ordinary houses. Here I
dug up a singular piece of pottery, of an antique form, and
covered with various devices, but was unable to get any infor-
mation about it from the family. They said they had never
seen anything like it before, and did not know how it came
there. Its shape and whole appearance proved it to be very
ancient.
Our road from the stream was gradually ascending, and
bounded on both sides by timber, when of a sudden we
reached the top of the ridge and had a view of the largest
prairie we had yet met. 0, the glorious beauty of that scene.
Fancy would in vain attempt to paint it ! Below, stretching
for twenty-five miles in length, and twelve in breadth, lay a sea
of pale green, hemmed in by timber of a darker hue ; flowers of
every variety, shade and form, interspersed over the surface ;
a dark green belt of verdure here and there, marking the
ravines and water-courses, and groves of trees, or clumps, or
single trees, scattered in such perfect arrangement over the
whole, as to seem as though some eminent artist had perfected
the work. And truly so he did, for what artist can compare
with the God who formed and arranged all these natural
beauties now spread before us !
The view, fully realized descriptions of the parks of the
English nobility and gentry, wanting only the presence of
32 NOTES TAKEN.
animal life. Its effect upon us is best illustrated by the
following incident.
Our whole command stopped involuntarily, in mute admira-
tion ; at last, one poor fellow, a rough, uncouth specimen of an
ox driver burst, out, " Oh, if I was only a lawyer, how I could
talk about such a sight as this, but I havn't the larnin to say
what I want." Now, whether there is anything peculiar in
the legal profession, which gives a higher zest to enjoyment
of the beautiful in nature, I confess I do not know, of one
thing I am certain, that lawyer or doctor, saint or sinner, any
man who could gaze upon and not admire a scener like this,
must be wanting in the very elements of the division between
the human and animal.
As every pleasure has its pain, every joy its sorrow, our
feelings of admiration for the scenery, were soon merged into
those of pity, for our horses, mules and oxen.
The great drawback to pleasure, at this season, on the
prairie, is the immense number of insects. Among these, is a
large, greenish brown horse fly, the most inveterate blood
sucker of the genus. So ravenous are they, that, after settling
down to their bloody work, they will allow themselves to be
picked up in the fingers, making no effort to escape. At every
stroke of their bills, the blood flows as if from a lancet, and
they come in such myriads, that I have seen a horse bathed
in his own blood. An idea prevails, that they will attack a
white horse, or mule, sooner than any other color, but this
I think erroneous, and doubtless arises from the fact, that the
MEETING. 33
marks of blood, are more visible upon the white hair, also
white animals, are generally thinner skinned, and consequently
more sensitive.
It has often been a matter of reflection to me, why this
torment should have been inflicted upon dumb brutes. My
conclusion is, that it is intended for man, as an exercise of his
humanity.
As we passed only along the edge of the prairie, we were
soon through safely, though we had a busy time fighting the
tormentors, and entering a shady road, had proceeded but a
short distance before we were stopped by the sudden
announcement of five of our teamsters, that they would go no
farther. These men, living a precarious but indolent life, upon
the frontier of Arkansas, had joined the expedition with
very romantic ideas, but the realities and discipline of camp
life had cured them, and go any farther they would not ; but
leaving us upon the hill side, they turned their faces towards
their accustomed lounging places, and were gone. We made
out to work along a few miles, by all turning in as teamsters,
and reaching a large farm, occupied by an old Indian, halted
until we could hire more help a change which we often after-
wards congratulated ourselves upon.
The evening set in with a violent rain storm ; so, to be as
comfortable as possible during our detention, we took posses-
sion of an untenanted house on the premises, and building a
fire in the hearth (for it was quite cold), we spread our blan-
kets upon the floor and resigned ourselves to sleep, after a
34 NOTES TAKEN.
very good meal of milk, eggs, chickens, &c., which we pro-
cured from the farm house.
Though annoyed at this unexpected detention, by which we
lost three days' travel, we were enabled during our stay to
observe the Indian in his home, and to form our own opinions
of his enterprize and moral worth, an opportunity I had long
wished for.
At an Indian house we passed to-day, I observed some little
negroes, from two years old and under. They were naked, and
were most singular and unsightly objects, from the distortion
and protuberance of the stomach and abdomen. This is
attributable to their being fed entirely on corn bread, causing
enlargement of the spleen and other distresses. On speaking
of this circumstance to the owner, he said, " Well, may be so
dey live, may be not ;" a matter of indifference to him, whose
own stomach seemed well fed and healthy enough, but upon
whom the natural consequences of cause and effect made no
impression.
June 7th, 8th andOth. Our quondam host was a full-blooded
Choctaw. He served in the Creek war with General Jackson,
and like all of his tribe, was very proud of the fact that they
have always been allies of the United States. His wealth in
cattle and horses, besides money (which was all hoarded,
never, as is a general thing with Indians, put out at interest),
was said to be over one hundred thousand dollars, and yet he
was living not only in a filthy but most uncomfortable and
disgusting manner, fond of nothing but gold and silver, which
OUR HOST. 35
when we paid him the few dollars of expense incurred, he
clutched with all the gloating of a miser, and shook with
tremulous delight as he told them one by one into his greasy
bag. We wanted some corn fur our animals during our stay,
and when asked for it, he denied having any to spare at first.
This proved to be a " ruse " to raise the price, for as the mar-
ket price was one dollar per bushel, so soon as we expressed
our willingness to give one dollar and a half, he shrugged his
shoulders, and very quietly said, " Well, as blackberry come
soon may be so you can have him," at the same time point-
ing the way to two well filled cribs.
The use of these berries is an evidence of the improvidence
of the Indian, as T am told a large number depend upon them
in a great measure ; in fact, I heard one sturdy chap say,
" Well, I got corn till blackberry come, then may be so corn
be d d ;" and in conversation with our host, he said that
the corn in the neighborhood was almost entirely consumed,
and the present season promised badly, but " may be so dey
git some blackberry, may be not." This was said with an
indifferent shrug, as if the prospect or the reality of starvation
around him was a matter of no consequence.
Many visitors came to the farm during our stay. All, of
course, visited our quarters, and sat or stood around in that
quiet manner peculiar to the Indian, and which, I think, con-
ceals a great deal of curiosity, of which they are supposed to
be guiltless. One, a fine looking youth, gaily dressed and
painted, with his hair cut " a la roundhead," had a good deal
30 NOTES TAKEN.
to say, in his broken way. I asked him his name ; he said
" George." " Well, George what?" I asked. " Why, George,
may be so George be good name 'nough ;" and this was all the
satisfaction I got for iny inquiry.
Some of the visitors got up a dance one evening. There
were six dancers three squaws and three men. The music
was a droning discordance of sounds, drawn from an old
cracked fiddle by the husband of one of the squaws, and the
dance consisted in a monotonous bobbing up and down, like a
bear on a hot plate, accompanied by yells, which grew louder
as the night waxed older, and the whiskey began to take
effect, so that long after we had retired to our blankets, we
were roused when a louder yell than usual pealed out, or a
heavier stamping announced that the orgie was becoming
more fast and furious.
We met with, and in use, at this place, some vessels of the
same material and ancient shape, as the one I had previously
dug up at the deserted Council House. Our host told us
they were made of an admixture of clay and pounded muscle
shells, but the art of making them was lost. They will stand
the fire and would answer for crucibles as well as cooking
pots.
It rained heavily at intervals during our stay, and one
evening, during a heavy shower, I went to the door of our
quarters and observed a large fire burning near some out-
buildings. On inquiry,! learned it was the old man's bivouac.
Being curious to investigate the matter further, we went over,
BRANDING COLTS. 87
despite theraiu, and found this old creature, seventy years old,
and suffering with the liver complaint, stretched near the fire,
upon a bundle of skins and old blankets, with no shelter but
the overhanging eaves. It had been his habit from infancy to
sleep in the open air, and he said he could not sleep in a house.
The doctor offered him medical aid for his complaint, but he
declined, being either too stingy or too superstitious to avail
himself of it. He said, "No, no our man he do dat he
good 'nough ;" meaning their medicine man, to whom they
still adhere.
One morning we heard a great commotion in the stock yard,
and going over, found that some young colts were to be branded.
We witnessed the process done in true Indian style, the ani-
mal being first lassoed and choked until powerless, then
thrown, the branding iron applied, and an inch of the tail cut
off, to make' it lighter and more under control of the colt to
brush off insects. It is then liberated, frightened half to
death, and, I have no doubt, injured by the brutal manner iu
which it has been handled.
They pursued this process of branding with all their stock
except their hogs. The hogs roamed in the woods, and lived
on Mast,* or starved to death if that failed ; no care was
taken to improve the breed, and those met with, were a long-
nosed, long-legged, slab-sided species, black in color, and
evidently descendants of the wild hog, or peccary. This old
man had about one thousand head in his range, and seemed
* Mast is the nut of the oak and beach trees.
38 NOTES TAKEN.
to think he would be able to save enough to last him in his
family, as hog and hominy was their only diet.
Of cattle and horses, the old man had a large herd, in fact,
he told me he did not know the number, but " sometime de
boy he count 'em." The calves were all kept in an enclosure,
and thus the cows were induced to return from pasture, when
enough milk was taken for butter, &c., the rest allowed to the
calves. I could not help but think what a handsome account
one of our New England fanners would turn such a dairy to.
An incident occurred during the branding, which affected
me very much, and which I will now relate :
When all the large colts had been branded, a beautiful
milk-white filly, four years old, with a colt six weeks old, at
her foot, was driven up. At first she made every effort to
escape, guarding the colt at the same time, but soon the colt
was lassoed and thrown, instantly, she stopped, and standing
the very picture of agony, with glaring eyeballs and distended
nostrils, trembling in every limb and muscle of her frame, and
the sweat running off her in a stream, uttering all the time a
low, whining moan, presented a picture of distress, which, in
a dumb brute, was as affecting as it was extraordinary. As
soon as the colt was liberated, she sprang forward, and
caressing it with all the affection of a mother, bounded off
into the woods, taking care to keep it in front and in sight of
her; truly, thought I, if any thing could create a belief in
Metempsychosis, it would be sights like this.
Most of Ilio ChoctttWR hold slaves, but my observations,
LITTLE NEGRO. 6\)
both here and elsewhere, have convinced me that the general
government would subserve the cause of humanity by pro-
hibiting any Indians from holding them ; they look upon them
as mere beasts of burden, and treat them accordingly.
At this place there were two slaves ; one an old woman of
seventy years of age, and lame with inflammatory rheumatism,
the other a child of eight years old, who were compelled to do
all the hard work about the farm. "We saw the old woman
sent out to catch and saddle a horse, and the boy, with no
clothing on but a coarse, ragged, filthy tow shirt, chopping
logs of wood, and then shouldering and carrying into the
house, a log larger than himself.
Our sympathies were very much excited, and on remonstra-
ting with the old man, and telling him that the boy would
be strained and injured for sale, he merely shrugged his
shoulders, and replied, "He strong 'nough, me work hard
when me boy, me seventy year old, me strong yet."
One of the party gave the little fellow an old shirt, which
he donned immediately, half wild with delight, and strutted
off to show his prize, but he soon came back in tears, with
the shirt hanging in ribbons about him, his unusual appear-
ance having excited the anger of the big bull of the herd, and
in making his escape, he lost the most of his finery in the
bushes.
Another of our party offered to buy the boy, but the
avaricious old wretch, immediately put up his price beyond
his means, and upon being told that his price was unreason-
40 NOTES TAKEN.
able, merely replied, " He good boy, may be so, somebody
give it for him, may be not."
Instances might be multiplied of great barbarities prac-
tised ; one, is that of an Indian in this nation, standing and
enjoying the pastime of his half-grown boy, which consisted
in practising with bow and arrows, at a negro boy, as a
target. Another, ordered a slave to shoot a man against
whom he had a grievance, and upon refusal, whipped the
slave to death. These are not isolated cases, but good
specimens of their ^estimation of, and general treatment of
slaves, and would seem to prove conclusively, that the Indian
needs a master, as much, if not more, than the slave.
June 10th. Having succeeded in filling the places of our
shameless deserters, we left the old man and his ill-enjoyed
wealth, at an early hour this morning, and commenced the
ascent of a steep, stony hill, on the opposite side of which
slopes a prairie, extending down to Games' creek.
Just before we left, an incident occurred, showing the
inherent laziness of the Indian. A stout, able-bodied man,
equipped for hunting, and riding a beautiful white pony,
came by, and stopped, in that peculiar quiet manner I have
before remarked upon.
One of our party, pleased with the pony, asked the price.
He raised his hands three times, with all the fingers extended,
as much as to say, thirty dollars ; immediately the money
was counted down, but he then declined selling his pony,
saying, it was too far for him to walk home. " How far ?" was
QUIET CAMP. 41
the question. " Five mile," was his reply. Forty dollars
were then offered, but still, though it staggered him a good
deal, he persisted in declining, as rather than walk five miles,
he would forego the opportunity of selling his pony at so
greatly an increased rate.
On reaching the creek, we found it too high to ford, and so
encamped in a beautiful grove on the slope of the prairie, and
a beautiful quiet evening we had, when the first clear moon
for some nights, rose to hallow the peaceful scene below, the
white tents, and the white covers of the wagons, peeping out
from among the trees, the camp fires blazing, and the cattle
feeding upon the green sward around us. We felt the
soothing influence of the scene, after the rough times of the
past week, and retired to our grassy couches with calmer
thoughts for the morrow.
42 SNAKES.
CHAPTER III.
GAINES* CREEK TO FORT WASHITA.
Horse bitten by a snake. Prairie flowers. Oats met with. White men married
to squaws. Law upon the subject. Fossils found. Coal abundant. Soil,
limestone. Army worm. Severe storm. Emigrants met with. Arrive at the
Boggy. Choctaw swamp. Wild cattle. Train stopped. Start for the fort.
Flies troublesome. Cross the Blue. Arrive at Washita.
JUNE llth. We found this morning, that the best horse
we had a noble sorrel had been struck by a snake in the
night, and could go no farther. The muscles of his throat
and fore-quarters, were so swollen that he could not raise his
head from the ground, so, reluctantly, we left him in charge
of a Choctaw, living in the vicinity, with directions to bring
him in to Fort Washita when he recovered. The doctor bled
him very freely in the mouth, and we made a muslin cover to
screen him from the flies, and so left him to his fate.
Instances of this kind are very frequent in this section of
country. The reptile is a small mottled snake, called Ground
Rattlesnake. This is a misnomer, as it has no rattles, and
strikes without warning. It is a species of the Copperhead,
its bite very venomous, and generally attended with fatal
results.
At ten A. M., (the water having subsided to a fordable
depth,) we crossed Games' Creek, and passing through several
CHOCTAW LAW. 43
beautiful prairies, rich in pasture, and covered with those
beautiful flowers which always delighted us so much, (and
through which we always roamed, making our selections,) and
which we always parted from with regret, we came to a much
more cultivated region. What first attracted our attention
was a field of oats, a grain we had hitherto not met with, as
the Indians raise nothing but corn. " Aha," said I, the "white
man has had a hand in this," and so it proved to be the case.
Several settlers from the States, who have married squaws,
live here, the fact evidenced by the greater quantity of land
cultivated, greater variety in ,the crops, the growth of
vegetables, greater neatness about their buildings, and a
general appearance of industry and thrift.
According to Choctaw law, no white man can marry until
he has resided two years in the nation. He can then marry
one of the tribe, and can fence in and cultivate as much as he
pleases. There are many instances in the nation, and where-
ever met with, the difference from the native is very per-
ceptible and striking.
Having learned, by the experience of the past, the phle-
botomizing powers of the prairie-fly, we stopped at the first
convenient place, and spent the rest of the day in making up
muslin covers for^our horses and mules, and during the day
made some very interesting explorations and discoveries
among the fossiliferous strata in the vicinity.
The soil is limestone, marked by the pellucid water and
luxuriant vegetation. It yields, in ordinary seasons, forty
44 NOTES TAKEN.
bushels of grain to the acre ; this season being unprecedently
wet, the prospects were not so good.
Coal is found here in abundance, very bituminous, but used
only by the few blacksmiths who live along the road.
A curious spectacle presented itself this morning, on our
road. The whole surface of the ground, for more than a mile,
was covered with the army worm, passing from one scene of
devastation to another. They are about three inches long,
white in colour, and lozenge shaped, travel slowly, but are a
great scourge to the farmer, destroying when they come in
such hosts in a night the labours of the season. Nothing
but fire, I understand, has been able to check their ravages,
and it is said that by burning off a narrow strip around a crop,
it can be saved, as they will not cross burnt ground. My own
impressions are, that as the larvae are deposited by the insect
after passing the chrysalis state, no means will be effectual,
except they can be destroyed in the egg. This farmers North
and East do, in case of the cutworm, by ploughing their laud
and subjecting it to the action of the weather.
June 12th. At daylight we were on the road, and com-
menced passing through a more broken, but still well culti-
vated and flourishing country, as there is quite a settlement
if distances of from ten to fifteen miles can.be called a settle-
ment of white men with squaw wives. An old Indian of
some note also lived on this road. He was rich in cattle and
horses, but, like his fellows, cultivated the soil to a very
limited extent. "We stopped for the night near a place where,
THE BOGGY. 45
on the twenty-eighth of May, a remarkable storm raged,
destroying the crops and beating down timber.
Passing unobstructedly over so wide an extent, storms
acquire terrific violence in this country, and leave indelible
marks of their ravages.
One of the settlers, an intelligent white man, had sixty acres
of oats destroyed, and told us that hail was thick enough, in
some places, to be shovelled up. He said he measured some
of the stones, and one was eight inches long and five in cir-
cumference, a fact which I believe, as I saw limbs of trees and
their trunks skinned and battered as if by a discharge of grape
shot. We procured here a fine hound to assist us in our
catering when we got on the plains.
June 13th. Our march to-day led us through an extensive
prairie covered as usual with a beautiful variety of flowers
where we found encamped a large party of emigrants, waiting
for the subsidence of the waters of the Boggy, a stream more
aptly named than pleasant to the traveller. They told us we
could not cross, but we determined to make the attempt.
This stream ran through a bottom, which, in time of high
freshet, was entirely submerged, leaving, as the water receded,
a road which, though called bottom, seemed -to have that
necessary ingredient in a passable road entirely fallen out, or
at least to require the race of men and animals found by that
veracious traveller, Lemuel Gulliver, in the interesting country
of Brobdignag, to find firm footing for travel.
A black, mucky deposit spread in width for two miles, and
46 NOTES TAKEN.
our hapless party went floundering and plunging on, some-
times brought to a dead stand, anon sinking to the saddle
girths, then plunging into a slough and wondering what was
to come next, until bedaubed and bespattered, breathless and
half suffocated, we emerged upon the banks of the stream, and
cast an involuntary glance backwards to see whether we had
*
not left part of ourselves or our horses behind us.
With the loss of several horse and mule shoes, and the
breaking of a swingle tree in the ambulance, we got through,
and arriving on the banks of the stream found it too high to
cross with our wagons, and so set about to repair damages.
In course of the afternoon, we attempted to cross our horses
over by swimming them, but on account of the bad landing on
the opposite shore, were obliged to desist.
Having crossed myself, in a dug-out,* in anticipation of my
horse, I came near having an unpleasant adventure, viz., a
night alone in a Choctaw swamp.
Finding no likelihood of getting my horse, I started on foot
for Boggy Depot a collection of dwellings and stores about
a mile from the stream as the most comfortable place to
spend the night.
Indian-like, my guide gave me a direction, which, so far
from being direct, only made confusion worse confounded.
*A "dug-out" is a canoe made out of a solid log, the heart dug out with a
hatchet or adze, hence its name. The more primitive way of making them was
to burn them out, though there is no authority for saying that in consequence
these were culled " burnt-outs."
DIAMONDS. 47
The freshet had obliterated all marks of the road; but judg-
ing, I suppose, my instincts by his own, he pointed to a gap in
the thicket, under a huge cottonwood, and grunting out, " You
not miss him," left me to the tender mercies of gnats, mos-
quitoes, snakes, " et genus omne," which are only to be found
in such a delectable place as Boggy Bottom.
I floundered on, every moment expecting to reach the wel-
come haven, but every step made it worse, until just as I was
about to give up in despair, I heard the roar of a mill-dam,
and hurrying on, found that I had boxed the compass and
come round to the place I started from. I was glad to re-
cross the stream and take up my quarters with the miller,
where I found a blanket and a soft puncliin to solace me after
my unromantic ramble.
My host was quite wild upon the subject of a diamond mine
he had found upon his premises ; so after supper he produced
his specimens, consisting of small quartz crystals imbedded in
the harder rock, one of which he had extracted and fitted to
a stick, to show how well it would cut glass ; useless to him
even for this, as glass for windows is unknown in this country.
He looked blank when I told him the value of his prize, but
to console him, I told him I would take some of the best
specimens and have them well tested, giving him all the
advantage that might result therefrom. I left him to his dia-
mond dreams, and if there is pleasure in anticipation, I have
no doubt this man thoroughly enjoys it.
48 NOTES TAKEN.
June 14th. The banks of the stream presented a wild and
picturesque scene this morning.
A high, steep bluff, on the opposite shore, was lined with
over a thousand head of wild cattle, about to be driven across,
on their way to Missouri and Illinois.
These cattle are herded on the vast plains of Texas, until
about three or four years old ; they are then sold to men who
follow the business, at from fifteen to eighteen dollars per
head, driven to the prairies in the North-West, and there
fattened for the Eastern market. They are very beautiful to
look at, symmetrical in figure, with sinewy limbs, and very
long, sharp-pointed horns.
Quite wild, the business of driving them is an arduous and
a dangerous one. They go quietly enough until something
occurs to excite or frighten them, when a stampede will
occur, and woe betide the hapless wight who becomes
involved in it ; they become frantic, and bear down and crush
every thing that stands in the way in their furious career.
The men who drive them, are a rough set, hardy and
splendidly bold riders. I saw one catch his hat from the
ground, when at full gallop, a feat which requires not only
practice, but great muscle and dexterity. They ride a small
horse, bred in Mexico, thick set and of great power of
endurance.
The stock-whip they use, is a most formidable weapon ;
upon a short handle, about eighteen inches long, they fasten
a plaited lash, from fifteen to eighteen feet in length, about
EMIGRANTS. 49
an inch thick at the thickest part, tapering down to a very
long thin end. Long practice enables them to throw this out,
from its trail on the ground, with great accuracy and
tremendous effect, cutting like a long flexible razor, and with
a report like a pistol, drawing the blood at every blow.
It was an exciting sight, to see the herd plunge off the
high bank about fifteen feet perpendicular hight and swim
across, nothing appearing above water, but their taper heads
and long thin horns. The emigrants we had passed upon the
prairie had also come down, determined to cross at all hazards.
They had exhausted all their provisions, and were too
impatient to wait until the stream was fordable. There were
about four hundred of them, men, women, and children, and
the scene of confusion, and damage to property, beggars all
description. Their goods were saturated with water, the
whole party wetted to the skin ; and in one instance a wagon
sank entirely out of sight, and was only recovered by dint of
diving and fastening ropes to it, when, with the assistance of
several yokes of oxen, it was drawn ashore again.
Poor Richard says, " Two removes is as bad as a fire." I
doubt whether the crossing of the Boggy was not a complete
conflagration to these movers.
g~
Emigration is very rapidly flowing into Texas, and of a class
calculated materially to advance her interests. We con-
versed very freely with this party, and found them, both in
outfit and conversation, a superior stock. They were all
Irom Missouri, and had plenty of ready money.
5*
50 NOTES TAKEN.
Their reason for emigrating was the cold and inhospitable
climate of Missouri. One man told me that it was necessary
to fodder cattle seven months in the year ; a great difference
to Texas, where cattle range in the pasture winter and
summer, always fat and in good condition.
They all seemed to feel that the change they were making
was a hazardous one, and indeed, when the difference in
prices, the increased distance from market, and the risks run
in acclimating, are taken into account, they might well think
so ; and I am satisfied, from what I saw and heard, that many
a heartfelt regret was uttered for the home and comforts they
had left.
My experience here and elsewhere, will always prompt me
to give but one advice to persons disposed to emigrate, viz. :
if you are comfortably off where you are, better stay, the
contingencies are too great to warrant a change.
When Texas shall have completed a system of internal
improvements, of course the objection of distance from market
will not lie, and perhaps, as a stroke for posterity, these
people were making a judicious move, but still, " let well
enough alone," is a most excellent domestic motto.
Our heavy train, of course, could not pass the Boggy, and
as it was the Captain's intention to stop, for a few days at all
events, in the neighborhood of Fort Washita, until he could
procure some more stock, let those we had rest, and await the
arrival of our military escort from Fort Arbuckle ; we left
our oxen and wagons on the prairie, and one of the party and
FLY TIME. 51
myself, swam our horses and mules across, and started for
Fort Washita (twenty-five miles distant), leading our spare
horses, to procure for them good forage and attendance for a
few days, previous to entering upon our long journey across
the plains.
Did the reader ever undertake to lead a refractory horse,
across an open country, in fly-time, with the thermometer at
ninety-eight in the shade. If he did, he can fully sympathize
with us, if he did not, he cannot feel a tithe of the excru-
ciating torture of the operation.
The green flies our quondam torturers again made their
appearance, and this time it seemed to me more famished
than ever. Our led horses, rendered half frantic, would dart
first on one side of us, then on the Other, sometimes come
charging up to rub themselves against the ridden horse, who,
rendered steadier by the rein, was of friendly assistance for
this purpose then again, rolling upon the ground and
jerking back, or pulling forward, until our arms were nearly
dislocated, such is a faint picture of our situation, under
circumstances.
Arrived on the banks of the Blue. (The streams all have
appropriate names in this country, as for instance, the Boggy,
whose peculiarities I have described; the Brushy, whose
banks are tangled almost impassably, with briars and bram-
bles, and the Blue, whose waters are a deep blue, from
running over a bed of soft blue limestone and clay). My
52 NOTES TAKEN.
companion plead his inability to swim, as a reason for not
taking the lead in crossing, so I was obliged to precede.
All would have gone well, had not my horse commenced
floundering the moment his feet touched the soft clay at the
bottom. In we went up to the neck, and whilst struggling
to keep heads above water, what should I hear but a stanza
of the Blue Moselle, quietly hummed by the imperturbable
individual on the bank. With a hearty expletive, denouncing
all sentiment, and particularly at such a time, I was fain to
leave him to his fate, but philanthropy, getting the better of
temper, I re-crossed and piloted the way to the " terra firma"
of the most beautiful prairie we had yet crossed, the prairie,
upon the outer edge of which stands Fort Washita, where we
arrived at sundown, sore, sunburnt and fatigued, to experi-
ence all the comfort and pleasure, which unaffected and
disinterested hospitality could offer and accomplish.
DESCRIPTIONS. 53
CHAPTEE IY.
STAY AT FORT WASHITA.
Description of the Post. Pleasant stay among our friends. Fossiliferous Re-
mains. Prairie, ancient bed of the ocean. Prairie Flowers Timber through
the country. Indians met with. Soil of the ChoctaW and Chickasaw Reserves.
Remarks upon the Natives. Territorial Bill. Captain leaves on 22d with
part of the Train.
JUNE 15th to 29th. This post, established about twelve
years since, was garrisoned by one company of the seventh
infantry, commanded by Major Holmes, and one company
of the fourth artillery, commanded by Major Hunt ; Major
Holmes commanding the post. Plain, but comfortable
quarters, stand upon the brow of a hill, commanding a fine
view of the plain. For ten miles, this rich, green velvet
carpet is spread out, spangled with flowers of every hue,
and interspersed with groves of timber. A little babbling
brook meanders through the green sward at the foot of the
hill, the whole forming a scene of picturesque beauty, com-
pensating in some measure for the isolation from society
and the daily peril concomitant to a frontier life.
We enjoyed the hospitalities of our friend, S. HUMES,
whose heart is as open as the prairie around him, and our
time passed pleasantly and quickly, roaming through the
prairie and exploring the palaeontological remains in the
54 NOTES TAKEN.
vicinity, amongst which the indefatigable doctor fairly revelled.
Our friends got up many little social soirees for us and we
were also enlivened by a wedding. One of the fair garrison
belles, leaving parents and friends, cast in her lot with a
young subaltern of infantry, who, after a four years' absence
upon the frontier, returned to the States a Benedict ; long
may he and his fair bride enjoy the sweets of the faith
pledged beneath the harvest moon, in the midst of Nature's
choicest beauties.
Poorly paid, and worse equipped, the soldiers of our repub-
lic never can receive too high a mete of praise for the choice
that decided and the energy which marks their profession.
Isolated from home and the world, they carry with them
into these solitudes, refinements the result of well trained
habits and education, and moving in a sphere, hallowed by
feminine grace, beauty, and accomplishments, reality becomes
romance, though the rose is well armed with thorns.
The country around Fort Washita bears unmistakeable
evidences that, at a remote period, old ocean's surges rolled
in all their might and majesty over these vast plains.
Hitherto, the idea that they were once the ancient bed of
the ocean, appeared to me to be a very plausible theory, but,
" experientia docet," no fact can be more fully established.
Our explorations developed every water-course, hill side and
ravine to be filled with fossiliferous remains. The indefati-
gable doctor was busy from early dawn to dewy eve with ham
mer and specimen bag, and his cabinet now contains fossil sea
PRAIRIE AVONDERS. 55
eggs, fossil oysters, scollops, clams, and other marine shells,
whilst in the soft limestone we found the ammonite and the
nautilus (extinct marine Crustacea), some of the former as
large as a cart-wheel.
A suggestion has been made, that the days of Noah and
the Flood will explain these deposits, but the depth of the
strata and the size of the specimens found, prove revolving
years of submersion and procreation. Some of the strata
were fifty feet perpendicular, with numerous specimens thickly
embedded from bottom to top.
"What food for thought ! Over a spot, now redolent with
the perfume, and gay with the hues of sweet flowers, and teem-
ing with insect and animal life, once rolled the mighty wave,
sported the monsters of the deep, and roared the tempest in
its irresistible might !
How ancient, then, must be this universal system how far
exceeding all the bounds set to it ; its history is as unfathom-
able as that of the Being who formed, and now guides and
directs it ! Truly, at sight of nature's wonders, man sinks into
puny insignificance.
I have frequently alluded to the beauty and variety of
the prairie flowers. It is a rich treat to roam amongst
them. Throughout our march we found in profusion
flowers which, in the North and East, tire cultivated with
great care as ornaments for the drawing-room or conservatory.
The Texas plume a gorgeous flower of a brilliant scarlet
the red and white rose, the prairie pink, the verbena, the
56 NOTES TAKEN
inarygold of many varieties, the convolvulus, the ranunculus,
the sensitive and other liguminous plants, the flag, the sun-
flower and the wild pea all luxuriant in growth and brilliant
in colour all bloom here together, and though " wasting their
sweetness upon the desert air," still, as the occasional tourists
wander among them, they stand the fragrant evidence of
creative power, hallowing the scene and raising the thoughts
from nature up to nature's God.
The timber found in the country passed through is the cot-
tonwood, black jack, post oak, pecan, pride of China, and the
" bois d'arc," or Osage orange, which occurs first at Boggy.
The wood of this tree is the hardest and toughest known. It
is used by the Indians for making their bows, (hence its name,)
is very close grained, and of a deep-yellow colour. It is also
used for hedges. A very fine and lasting dye is also ex-
tracted from it. The foliage is very thick, leaf small and of
a very deep-green, making it a handsome addition to the
forest. It bears also a very large apple, which contains the
seed, and which, when fully ripe, is a deep orange colour.
The pecan, is very useful for mechanical purposes, as it can
be split into very thin laths, and is very pliable. We also
found some hickory and white oak, but very rare.
Although the soil is in general a black loam and very rich,
the timber is short, Except the cottonwood.
The soil is well adapted for corn the only thing the
Indians raise and vegetables, evidenced by the strength
THE KIDNAPPER. 57
and luxuriance of the sun-flower, a plant which always flour-
ishes best in a locality suitable for these crops.
During our stay, many Indians came in to trade at the
sutler's store. They were Caddos, Chickasaws and Witchi-
tas, a dirty, squalid and uninteresting set.
A party of Kickapoos also passed one morning, with pack-
mules. They were on their way down to Eed Kiver to barter
for whiskey, the bane of the red man, but which he will
have, despite of law and at the risk of starvation, a melan-
choly depravity, to our shame be it said, entailed upon him
by the white man, against which no curse can be too loud
or too bitter, no effort too strenuously exerted to eradicate.
An old Chickasaw chief came in one evening, with three of
his negroes, who had been kidnapped.
He related to us a singular incident connected with this
affair. These negroes were kidnapped during his absence
from home, and upon following them up, with a chosen party,
armed to the teeth, and prepared for any emergency, he over-
took them and found that the kidnapper had just died sud-
denly by the road-side, so that his property was recovered
without any resort to knives or pistols, the usual "argumen-
turn ad kominem" in this country.
We had now passed one hundred and eighty miles through
the Choctaw and Chickasaw Reserve, as fertile a country as
ever the light of day rested upon, and yet every days'
experience and observation had only served to increase my
feelings of depreciation of the character and habits of the
58 NOTES TAKEN.
natives, and my regret that so much of such fine land should
be left to lie idle and unworked. Why the government
should not have limited these people to a tract much
smaller, and even then more than they can or will cultivate
is to me a mystery. Not one-sixteenth part of it will ever
be brought under cultivation, under the present system.
Climate, and every natural advantage here only serve to
foster the natural indolence and distaste for all useful exer-
tion, inherent in the Indian.
It is true, many of the natives are rich in this world's
goods ; it is not, however, owing to their exertions, but is the
effect of the force of circumstances.
With this rich domain, inviting cultivation, and which
yields tenfold for the smallest amount of cultivation from
the tiller ; with a market at their very doors for this is
and will be for years the main route for emigrants and daily
inquiry made for corn and fodder, which they cannot supply,
they are content to live neglectful of the golden opportunity,
scarcely raising enough for their own wants, and not even
varying their own home-fare with an occasional potatoe or a
turnip ; indeed, they raise no vegetables of any kind.
Their cattle and horses roam through the luxuriant pas-
tures, which nature clothes in verdure and life, winter and
summer, uncared for, except to be driven up and branded
when necessary ; their hogs subsist upon the mast, and with
the corn, supply their eternal diet of hog and hominy. Thus,
their horses and cattle supply their hoard; their hogs and
SMOKING SUMACH. 59
corn the one fed from nature's bounty, the other, raised
by the sweat of their slaves, in quantity sufficient to keep
them from starvation are their food; and the Indian can
mount his pony and gallop whooping through the prairie,
lounge dozing about his log hut, or taking his rifle, stroll
listlessly about the country ; in short, do any thing but work ;
that is a word not known in his vocabulary.
Nor does their country supply only the necessaries of life ;
the sumach grows in abundance, and is prepared from the
stalk almost in an instant.
Whilst in camp one evening during our march, I observed
two, Indians ride up and dismount. One of them stooped
down, pulled something from under his horse's feet, and
walking to the camp fire, held it over the flame. Prompted
by curiosity, I went over and found him preparing sumach
for his evening's smoke. He had pulled a bunch of the green
branches of the plant, and now held them in the flame just
far enough and long enough, to singe and curl them ; he
then rubbed them in his hands, filled his pipe, lit it, and,
mounting, was gone, the whole process not detaining him
five minutes.
Thus, even the luxuries of life are supplied by the same
bountiful hand, and "dolce far niente"made as perfect, as
imagination can conceive, or the Indian's capacity enjoy.
Even the few improvements in culinary utensils, and faci-
lities for preparing food for cooking, are^not taken advantage
of. The old log burnt hollow at one end, and the rude
GO NOTES TAKEN.
pestle, still hold their place ; the hand-mill, as old as the
patriarchs, graces the chimney side, and a pot or two and
an earthen jar make up the complement.
So lived their forefathers, and that their ghosts may not
revisit and rebuke any innovation, the Indian world must
stand still.
The style of building among this people is peculiar ; two
square pens are put up with logs, and roofed or thatched.
The space between the pens is covered in and serves for
eating-place and depository of harness, saddles and bridles,
&c. A door is cut in each pen, facing the passage. They
have no windows, the door admitting all the light used.
This style is called two pens and a passage, and is, in fact,
only a shelter for the family from bad weather, for of furni-
ture they have but little, and that of the rudest and most
uncomfortable kind.
These buildings are stuck (almost invariably) upon the
road ; no neat door yard, with a substantial fence and neat
gate, encloses them ; no flower or vegetable garden is seen,
but the ornamental figure of a half-starved hog, grunts
lazily on one side, and a pack of miserable curs lounge on
the other, the whole presenting an untidy picture of squalid
discomfort, which even its temporary appearance cannot
deceive.
Their present code of laws, if strictly enforced, would
secure all the safety to life and property necessary, but
MEDICINE MAN. 61
either from indolence or inefficiency law is comparatively
a dead letter among them.
In the space of six weeks, this season, no less than five
murders were committed, and yet we met two of the crimi-
nals at large and taken by the hand as usual.
The stringent law against the introduction of whiskey
may occasionally be enforced, but when it is, it is because
the facts are too palpable to allow of any escape.
The Bible, and the missionary, have failed to eradicate
their veneration for and superstitious belief in the medicine
man.
At different points on our road we were witnesses to
the absurd pow-wow and ' ridiculous incantation of these
swindlers.
Near the hut where lies the patient, they erect a pole,
from the top of which flaunts gay ribbons and pieces of gay
cloth. At the foot of the pole stands a frame, to which is
attached a bale of muslin or woolen cloth, ribbons, &c ,
and the door of the hut is festooned with ribbons and
colored cloth.
The mighty medicine man goes through with his mum-
meries, and leaves, taking the precaution to take with him,
as perquisites, all the cloth, ribbons, &c., which have been
used, and according to his wa&ts, of muslin, woolen or rib-
bon, so will be the quantity required, and the quality of
these infallible antidotes to the disease to be cured. What
a commentary upon a people having all the advantage? of
62 NOTES TAKEN.
the civilization and enlightenment of the nineteenth cen-
tury !
A bill has been introduced into Congress, by the young
and talented Senator from Arkansas, to organize a terri-
torial government, which, sanctioning the privilege of pur-
chase in, and settlement upon, the Reserves, by the white
population from the States, would soon change the face
of affairs for the better, for what clearer proof is necessary
of the inefficiency of the pure blooded native to manage in
a civilized community, than the fact, that in almost every
instance, the leading men in these tribes are either half-
breeds, or have a tincture of white blood in their veins.
The Senator has displayed the highest grade of philan-
thropy and sagacity by his efforts in this cause, and if
successful, will not only elevate and retrieve the Indian
character from aspersion, but relieve the general govern-
ment from a heavy burden of imputation of wrong and
injustice, under which it now labors.
Two views are to be taken of the savage state. Either
it is a state of degradation from original greatness, or else
the natural condition of man. If the former, it may be
restored ; if the latter, it may be improved.
That nations may decline in civilization, is evidenced in
the degraded condition of the nomadic hordes that roam
the vast plains of the East, descendants of a people who
built the greatest cities of their time, but that they may
be improved, is a cardinal principle of philanthropy.
TERRITORIAL BILL. 63
The modern Englishman is as faj* removed in civilization
from his ancestor, the savage Briton, clothed in skins and
dwelling in huts, as the American from the Indian, or as
the humanized condition of the African race among us
differs from the brutal condition of the negro in Guinea;
and if mere contact with civilization can produce such
results, what would not a systematic effort effect, when
brought to bear upon a race degraded from either of the
causes named.
The policy of our government has been practically to
deny the capacity of the Indians for civilization, by com-
pelling them to hold their lands in common, and not in
severalty, depriving them of the power of alienation, thereby
creating no necessity for self-reliance and individual effort.
I know that some of our wisest statesmen, and men of
philanthropic and benevolent natures, have pronounced
this the most merciful policy, and that intelligent white-
men, who have had opportunities of studying the Indian
character, either in an official capacity or as missionaries,
or as traders, ha ve* pronounced civilization to be so repug-
nant to the native that he will not submit to its wholesome
restraints, and hence that the phrase, " Injun will be Injun,"
has become trite, yet I contend that the Indian never can
be elevated but by his individual effort, and that thrift,
prudence, and discipline of character, the real elements of
civilization, can never be attained until he has to depend
64 NOTES TAKEN.
upon himself, a result ne^er to be arrived at so long as his
lands are held in common.
That some would fall a prey to the speculator and become
still lower in the scale of degradation, must be expected ; but
they would be but a minority, and not to be considered in the
ultimate benefits, and situated as we are towards the red man,
it is our duty as it should be our earnest desire and plea-
sureto atone for his wrongs by affording him every reason-
able facility for his possible improvement.
My sympathies are with the aborigines, and I cannot better
express them than by advocating, with voice and pen, a
measure which seems to me to be fraught with more ultimate
good results for them than any heretofore promulged by our
statesmen. Let them once be involved in common interests
with white men, and a new impulse would be given to them.
They would substitute practical life for sensual existence, accu-
mulate wealth where they now barely scratch out a support,
and, instead of degraded peasants, would become wealthy
agriculturists.
It is not the ability that the Indian wants, it is example, and
to be brought daily into contact with the results of well
directed industry, both of body and mind. This would be
effected by the bill proposed, and which no well-wisher of the
Indian can for a moment oppose.
Though the days of Tahmehuncl and Logan, of Tecumseh
and lied Jacket, have long passed away, and though their
virtues, energies and moral worth live but in history, still
INDfAN IDEAS. G5
many scions of the stock may arise to kindle anew the burn-
ing fires of their eloquence and reflect new splendor upon
ancient aboriginal renown. Let us cherish the hope, that ere
long the Indian representative may be found occupying his
seat in our national legislature, to advocate his own cause and
secure his rights from oppression.
I was not surprised in conversing with many of the old
men of the tribes, on the subject of this bill, to find them al^
of one opinion.
They are strongly opposed to if, and wind up all their con-
versations with the same conclusion, viz., that it is a scheme
of the white man to dispossess them of their lands. They
say, " We got land now, we keep him ; white man come, all is
gone."
This idea is a necessary consequence of their inherent dis-
trust of our race. At heart they hate us, and are only kept
apparent friends by either fear or self-interest. t *
The young men who have had some advantages of educa-
tion, and mingled more with the population of the States, are
more favourably disposed to the newly proposed arrangement,
a fact which is acknowledged by the old men with much bit-
terness, and either denounced as treason or as a scheme to
rise in power and influence in the tribes.
I took my leave of this fair spot in earth's garden with
mingled feelings of regret and pity regret, that so much
beauty and fertility was wasted upon indolence and obtuse-
ness ; pity, to find all but the spirit of man divine.
66 NOTES TAKEN.
Our train arrived on the twenty-second, and on the twenty-
sixth the Captain, having concluded all arrangements, left
with part of it, intending to cross Red Eiver and wait for the
arrival of the military escort and the rest of our wagons, &c.,
at the Lower Cross-Timbers.
MILITARY ESCORT. 67
CHAPTER Y.
FORT WASHITA TO LOWER CROSS TIMBERS.
Leave the Fort. Military escort. Adyenture with a Chickasaw. Arrive at Red
Kiver. Scenes at the Ferry. Town of Preston. Desperate fight. Description
of foil, &c. Cross Big Mineral. Basin Spring. Distances on Plains decep-
tive. Arrive at Lower Cross Timbers.
JUNE 29th. At noon to-day we left our comfortable quar-
ters at our friend S. H 's, and bidding adieu to Washita,
with its green plains, noble hearts and bright faces, we entered
the timber, skirting the plain on the south-east, and com-
menced our long journey to unexplored Texas.
. Our military escort, which arrived on the twenty-eighth,
consisted of forty non-commissioned officers and men, from
the seventh Regiment of infantry, commanded by Lieutenants
P e and C- n of that regiment.
The command was a mixed one of Americans, Germans and
Irish, a fine body of men, and as they had all volunteered for
the expedition, we flattered ourselves that, should we get into
a fight, we should have good material to depend upon.
The afternoon was oppressively hot, so we made but a short
march, and on coming into camp found two-thirds of the com-
mand " hors de combat," from indulging too freely in whiskey,
where obtained no one could tell, but the fact spoke for
itself.
68 NOTES TAKEN.
To add to. our discomfort, a party of drunken Indians came
howling; and yelling around camp, so that the night passed in
restlessness and apprehensions for the morrow.
It is almost invariably the case, when commencing a march,
that the common soldier must have a frolic ; whether to drown
regret at leaving his barracks, or in drinking farewell with his
friends, or that he takes advantage of whiskey depots on his
route, cannot be told ; most probably each of the three rea-
sons has its weight, and the latter, perhaps, the weightiest
of all.
It is not a common drunk, either, that he indulges in, but
one that, unless he gets into the hands of the guard, leaves
him stripped of accoutrements, and almost of clothes, absorb-
ing months of his scanty pay in an afternoon's debauch.
The most watchful care, on the part of his officer, fails to
prevent this evil, and the only thing that can be done is to
make the offender suffer the penalty of his offence.
Some did not get into camp at all, and canteens, belts, and
even muskets, were strewed along, just where recklessness or
oblivion overtook the Bacchanal, to be picked up if it might
so happen, if not, to be charged against his score on pay day.
Captain Whiskey's account* of profit and loss, had a long
list on the debit side for this day's work; we were fortunate
however, in not having a mutiny to cap the climax.
During the evening a young Chickasaw a very tine
specimen of the Indian came into our camp' and asked lor
whiskey. He was quite drunk at the time, and we declined
DRUNKEN CHICKASAW. 69
giving him any stimulant whatever. Very soon after he took
a fancy to a calico shirt I wore, and offered a gaily trimmed
hunting shirt in exchange. I gave him the shirt, and in a
short time he jumped up suddenly to leave. Springing on his
horse, we then observed that he had appropriated a knife
belonging to Lieutenant P e, and a buckskin coat
belonging to our servant. We immediately charged him with
the theft, when he flew into a terrible rage, swearing venge-
ance and heaping imprecations upon us. "VVe advanced upon
him in a quiet, but determined manner, when he threw down
the coat, but galloped off with the knife, swearing bitterly all
the while, and gesticulating violently as far as we could see
him. "We kept a good look out for him, but saw no more of
him, though we learned in the morning, that he was one of
the party who made the night hideous by their howls and
yells around camp.
June 30th. Our march to day was very dull and
uninteresting, our road at first, running over a succession
of rough, steep hills, covered with low oaks ; the weather
oppressively hot, and the men suffering from their debauch.
Five miles brought us to a very wide prairie, which we
crossed, admiring the beautiful flowers, as usual, and every
moment starting quails or grouse from their hiding places in
the rich grass.
This prairie was almost a level plain, extending to the x
horizon, and consequently not so attractive a view as those
previously seen.
70 NOTES TAKEN.
After leaving it, we entered the timber, which lined the
road all the way to Red River, and passing many Indian
farms, all looking alike to describe one is to describe all
we encamped upon the skirt of Red River bottom early in
the afternoon, to allow the stragglers to come in, and to
prepare for crossing the stream in the morning. Soon the
guard-house a sunny spot on the hill-side, where they could
boil at leisure was filled with delinquents; and evening
parade presented a funny farce, of bloody noses, torn clothes,
and lame excuses, ending by bringing some ropes into
requisition, and tying several of the transgressors to trees,
to spend the night among gnats, musquitoes and other
serenaders, which abounded in any quantity, a romantic
commencement to a long, hot, and perilous march.
July 1st. One would have supposed that the experience
of the two last days would have been a sufficient lesson to
our gallant sons of Mars, but the sequel of this day will prove
the contrary.
.We left camp at sunrise, and marching two miles through
the low, sandy bottom, thickly wooded with cottonwood trees,
with their limbs beautifully festooned with the trumpet
creeper, in full bloom, we arrived on the shores of Red River,
which we were obliged to cross by ferry boat, causing con-
siderable delay from our numbers, and the weight of our
wagons.
We found (" en bivouac," upon the high bank), a party of
Scminole Indians, men, women, and children, who had come
WHISKEY TRADE. 71
a distance of one hundred and fifty miles, through the
Reserve, to purchase whiskey on the opposite, or Texas shore
of the river.
They were engaged in crossing it over in five gallon kegs.
These they afterwards slung on their pack-horses in a netting
made of raw hide. About fifty gallons were already piled
upon the bank in kegs, and more arriving every hour or two.
The women were quite the most industrious of the party,
although assisting in procuring the cause of most of the
brutal treatment they receive from their husbands.
Though not, low enough to be fordable, the water was still
low enough to cause much trouble in getting the large flat up
to the bank, so, being impatient to cross, I stepped into a
skiff, which held Indians and empty kegs, and was soon over.
On the way, I incidentally asked the ferryman, what he
charged for this service, when to my surprise he replied,
" Why, them as buys whiskey we don't charge nothin '; them
as dos'nt, it's a bit." Proving a concert of action between
himself and the rum-seller, who can afford to pay well for
every votary brought to his shrine, as he sells the fiery stuff
at two dollars per gallon, it costing }\imff1een cents.
There is no means, at present, of preventing this traffic,
the general government having no jurisdiction upon the
Texas shore. All that can be done, is for the Light Horse
to be vigilant and firm in the execution of the law.
The first person I met on landing, was the captain of the
troop, a young Chickasaw, son of a chief.
72 NOTES TAKEN.
He was waiting patiently until the whole purchase should
be crossed over into the Reserve, when he followed with his
men, and promptly destroyed it all, amounting in value paid
to one hundred and forty dollars. May he continue vigilant
in this good cause, and perhaps, examples made, and the
penalties suffered, may, in time, arrest this horrible evil.
The town of Preston, from which all this misery for the
Red man emanates, is a collection of low groggeries and a
few stores, lining the high bluff bank of the river.
It is notorious as the scene of some most cold-blooded and
cruel murders, committed in open day, and with up to that
time perfect impunity. This, together with the detestable
traffic I have just alluded to, has brought such a stigma upon
the place, that the very name is sufficient for all that is
ruthless and vicious.
Whether our men had saved some drams from the old
stock, or whether they procured a new supply from the Semi-
noles, we knew not, but to our surprise and dissatisfaction,
they began to get noisy and uproarious before leaving the
shores of the nation, and by the time that, with the most
strenuous exertions on the part of the officers and the few
sober men in the command, our heavy train and oxen were
ferried over, insubordination was rife in the ranks.
So soon as they could be formed upon the Texas shore, the
officers marched them rapidly through the village, but it
being late in the afternoon, and the weather very hot, they
BLOODY FIGHT. 73
concluded to make but a short march, and, leaving the com-
mand in charge of the serjeant, preceded a short distance to
search for good camping ground.
Immediately, a scene of brutal and bloody confusion com-
menced, which left indelible marks, not only on our memories,
but upon the heads and limbs of the drunken actors in it.
Scarcely had we reached a good camping spot, when a
man came up, breathless, saying, that murder had been com-
mitted ; and before the officer in command could gallop to
the battle ground, two men came in, one, so completely
bathed in blood, that but for his oaths, imprecations, and
gesticulations, he would have been taken for any thing else
than a human being,
These men were both Irishmen, who had long been inimi-
cal, and meeting during the general melee, both heated with
liquor, and one over elated from having just come off cham-
pion in a single combat, the desperate manner in which they
fought, was evidenced by the injuries received.
Upon examination, one was found to have received twenty-
two incised wounds upon the head, neck, face and arms, one
finger cut off, terribly bruised about the body, and a stab in
the back, seven inches long, and an inch and a quarter deep,
yet, like a wild beast, he wallowed in his gore, and with the
strength of a lion, strove again and again, to reach his
antagonist, who, with a wound from a bayonet, in the left
breast, lay panting for breath and vomiting blood, a few
74 NOTES TAKEN.
yards off. Others were badly bruised and beaten, and in
fact, the major part of the command were in a state unfitting
them for discipline, or even punishment.
Thus ended our dreams of a quiet march for the rest of our
journey. We had hoped, that the examples made before, would
have had a salutary effect, but behold, some of the very men
who had transgressed and been punished, now worse than
ever, whilst to crown all, the chief non-commissioned officer
was one of the principals in the bloodiest affray, and now
lay completely "hors de combat."
What a life does a subaltern of infantry lead ! It is all
very pretty to write on paper, and to talk of the chivalry and
romance of a soldier's life, of the tented field, the glittering
review, or the charging squadron, but when we come to the
realities, (as experienced in our service,) of a young lieu-
tenant, with no protection but his nerves and individual
dexterity in arms, no guide but his sense of duty, sent out
upon a lonely prairie, to govern a company of men, formed
of every nation almost under the sun; men naturally brutal
and vicious when sober, worse than brutes when drunk; aware
that but little compromise will be made, or consideration of
circumstances taken count of, should disaster occur; know-
ing, too, that his duty is done at the risk of health and life,
and for a pittance of pay as inadequate as it is ungenerous, it
seems to me, that he who can find romance in such a life
must draw largely upon his imagination.
MUSTANGS. 75
The officers commanding this escort were both very young
men, but watchful, energetic, and determined; and it is to
these traits of character that we were indebted for no greater
disaster, as in the preservation of discipline they were sup-
ported but by two or three worthy exceptions among the
men. We camped about six miles from Preston, and spent
a very uncomfortable night.
From Fort Washita to Bed river, the soil is loam, with
ridges of limestone. The timber, oak and pecan, with occa-
sional bois d'arc and cottonwood. The river takes its name
from the colour of its water, which is a dark maroon, full of
sediment, and very unpalatable
The Texas shore is very bold, presenting a stratification
of red clay and white sand, giving a striking and very pecu-
liar appearance in the distance, like chalk cliffs.
The stream is but seldom in good boating order, rapid,
and full of shifting shoals, making a very tedious ferriage.
Whilst we were crossing, a herd of about twelve hundred
wild cattle were driven into the river from the Texas shore,
to swim them over into the Nation.
Taking the course of the stream, they swam down some
distance, so that the whole herd was in the water at the
same time, presenting a most singular appearance, with their
long, sharp pointed horns and taper heads, only seen above
the surface.
A herd of one hundred and fifty mustang mares was also
driven across.
76 NOTES TAKEN.
These mares were taken wild on the plains, and were
intended for the breeding of mules in Missouri.
Having read many descriptions, and seen drawings of the
noble horse in his native wilds, what was my surprise to find
a poor, miserable, spindle-shanked, puny stock, not one of
which I would accept as a gift (particularly if good points
were the object), and at the same time to be told that they
were very excellent specimens of the breed.
I account for their degeneracy, from the unavoidable breed-
ing in and in, which is inevitable in a wild state, and to which
may be attributed the ill shape and small size of so many
domesticated Indian ponies.
The mustangs have proved entirely worthless for all ser-
vice, wherever the experiment has been tried, very vicious,
and of no powers of endurance on the road.
This experiment of mule raising, may be successful, but I
should doubt it very much ; the stubbornness of the ass, and
the viciousness of the mustang, not being the proper ingredi-
ents for serviceable domestic stock.
July 2d. Hospital duties, and the necessity of providing
some means of transportation for the wounded of yesterday,
(our ambulance having gone on with the Captain), detained
us until a late hour this morning.
The non-commissioned officer, either from real suffering, or
shame that he had set so bad an example, was in an appa-
rently very distressed state, but after a time, a reclining place
was found for him in ono of the wagons. The rest marched
FUNNY INCIDENT. 77
with the command, an instance of power of endurance in
the one so badly wounded, seldom to be met with, his loss of
blood, and the intense heat of the weather considered. Before
leaving, a laughable incident occurred.
A man (who had shone conspicuous in the revel and fight)
came up to the Doctor, with both his eyes bunged shut.
" Doctor," says he, in a rich brogue, " am I fornint ye, for
divil a bit can I see ounly daylight. Won't ye plaze and cut
me eyes open, for how do yees expict a blind man till travil an
this a strange counthry. Cut thim open, Doctor dear; sure
I'll niver flinch, and if I hed thim opin I could see as will as
ony man in the Company ;" a fact which the Doctor did not
dispute, but declined the operation, so tied on a pony, and it
led by the guard, poor Pat had to put up with " ounly day-
liylit" for that day at least.
Noon found us crossing the Big Mineral, a limestone
stream running through a rich bottom, thickly grown up with
large cotton wood, honey locust, overcup, and other heavy
timber, besides plenty of the bois d'arc. The overcup is a
species of oak, bearing an acorn as large as a hen's egg. The
tree is very tall and straight, making excellent timber for
building purposes.
After leaving Preston, we entered upon the vast plains,
which stretching to the Cross Timbers, gave us a foretaste of
our home, and the seat of our labors for many weeks.
From this point, there is but a house here and there, and
78 NOTES TAKEN.
the little village of Gainesville, until we reach the Upper Cross
Timbers, and then adieu to all outward signs of civilization.
Early in the afternoon, we stopped at the Basin Spring, a
perfect fairy bath tub, and fatigued with the scenes of the past
three days, overcome by the intense heat, and almost famished
with thirst, but above all, enamored with the place, we deter-
mined to encamp for the night.
An apparently dry ravine ran at right angles to our course,
on traversing which, we came suddenly upon a series of ledges
of limestone rock, arranged like stairs.
Over these, the water trickled, and was caught in a basin,
worn by time and the action of the water, about three feet
deep, and five in diameter, and so pellucid, that the smallest
article might be seen on the bottom.
After the muddy waters of Red River, and the stagnant
pools of the prairies, what wonder that we hailed this foun-
tain with delight, drank copious draughts, laved in its cool
refreshing bosom, and poured out libations to the Naiad of
the Spring. "We did all this, aye, more, for we treated her to
a serenade, the first we had felt any spirits for since leaving
Fort Washita ; and cooled, calmed and refreshed, an early
hour found us wrapped in that slumber which only the tired
man can really enjoy.
July 3d. Daylight found us bidding adieu to the Nymphs
of the fountain, and entering upon the last large prairie we
crossed before reaching the Cross Timbers.
CROSS TIMBERS. 79
After marching three miles, we came to a house nestled in
a clump of trees, in the open prairie.
We found, after making inquiries here, how deceptive dis-
tances are on these plains.
The man had never been beyond his house, in the direction
we were travelling, and in reply to our inquiry, how far it was
to the timber, which was in sight, and where we expected to
join Captain Marcy, he said, "about three miles," and truly it
did not seem farther, but it was eight miles, two hours' travel
before we reached the outskirts, and three miles farther we
found the Captain encamped in a very cozy skirting of timber
by the roadside.
The eye is deceived quite as much on the plains as on the
water ; the long stretches of prairie, although undulating, pre-
sent no object so prominent as the belt of timber which bounds
them, so that the eye rests at once upon this, skipping over
the intermediate space and shortening the distance just in
proportion as the ground is level or broken.
These Cross Timbers are a very singular growth. The
one we had now entered is called the Lower Cross Timbers,
and is about six miles wide ; then eighteen miles from the
outer edge of this one, we should enter the Upper and larger.
They extend almost due north and south, from the Canadian
to the Brazos. The timber is a short, stunted oak, not grow-
ing in a continuous forest, but interspersed with open glades,
plateaus, and vistas of prairie scenery, which give a very pic-
turesque and pleasing variety.
80 NOTES TAKEN.
Thus far from Washita I had missed the flowers. A few
were still left, but they had lost the charm of profusion and
luxuriance.
It was to be sure getting late in the season, and I must
expect that soon these prairie gems would vanish entirely from
our sight, but the thought caused me much regret ; there was
such a home feeling about them, it was like missing " the old
familiar faces."
I found no new varieties to add to those already collected
and described, except a convolvulus, and a species of lauris-
tinus, of both of which I obtained specimens.
The Captain having concluded to dispense with one of the
teams, and send it back to Washita, the afternoon was spent
in dispatching by this unexpected opportunity, letters to our
far off friends and home, when, after a pleasant bath in
a little stream below camp, we resigned ourselves to our
blankets for the night.
INDEPENDENCE DAY. 81
CHAPTEE VI.
LOWER CROSS TIMBERS TO UPPER CROSS TIMBERS.
Camp on Elm Fork of Trinity. Independence day. Arrival of Indian hunters.
Remarks on the Delawares. Arrival at Gainesville. Description of Tornado.
Funny scene in Gainesville. Last house in Texas. Parlance of the settlers.
Camp on the Trinity. Night march. Manner of tracking horses by the
Indians. First rattlesnake killed. Arrival at Upper Cross Timbers.
JULY 4th. Independence day found us on the march just
as day dawned, and soon leaving the timber, we entered upon
a broken country, conisting of ridges of sand and limestone,
interspersed with small prairies and small strips of timber,
principally black jack, until we emerged upon and crossed
Elm Fork of the Trinity, where, on account of the intense
heat, Captain Marcy determined to halt and encamp, there-
after, intending to march by moonlight, until we reached the
Grand Prairie.
This stream runs over a bed of reddish limestone, very full
of fossils, principally the oyster and the periwinkle, and
winding through an extensive prairie, offered a very pretty
camp, whereat to spend our national holiday.
Soon the tents were pitched, and a ration of grog issued
to the men, whilst our mess indulged in a bumper of claret,
and some excellent cake, presented us by the old cook
at Washita. This, with the Star Spangled Banner, Hail
82 NOTES TAKEN.
Columbia, and Yankee Doodle, of course, roared out at the
top of not the weakest lungs, constituted our celebration,
our echoes bringing into camp an old squatter, who, roused
from his solitude by such vociferous republicanism, came to
ascertain the meaning of the invasion. His curiosity was
gratified to our gain, as we procured from him some excellent
butter, at the moderate rate of a bit a pound, a rich treat
in camp.
During the afternoon, we were agreeably surprised by the
arrival of John Wagon, and John Jackson, our two Delaware
hunters and guides.
The manner and the certainty with which they found us,
shows how invaluable this race of men is for such service.
Whilst we lay at Washita, Captain Marcy visited Fort
Arbuckle, and left word with Big Beaver a famous Dela-
ware to procure him hunters and guides. He could not
procure them in time to join us at Washita, but ascertaining
our route, and time of departure, these men took a straight
course across the country, guided by the stars, swimming Ked
River, and other intervening streams, subsisting on cold
flour,* and what game they met with, and struck our camp
one hundred and ninety miles from Fort Arbuckle on the
afternoon of the fourth day, as accurately as though they had
* Cold flour is a preparation of corn. It is first parched, then pounded and
according to taste, a little sugar mixed with it. A handful of this will make a
int of gruel, upon which a man can subsist for twenty-four hours.
TIIE DELA WARES. 83
only been making an excursion in the neighbourhood, and
came in as unconcerned as only an Indian can be.
They were paid for their services during our expedition
one dollar and a half a day, and one ration, besides having
transportation for the skins of deer, &c., that they might kill.
We congratulated ourselves on the prospect of now having
plenty of game, (as they are famous hunters,) which would
be a delightful change from salt provisions in such hot
weather.
The Delawares and Shawnees are among Indians, what the
Jews are among Christians.
Coming originally from the shores of the Delaware River,
they are scattered thoughout the South and West, though
their principal settlement is on Caw River, in Missouri.
Wherever they are found, they preserve the same character
for truth, honesty, and intelligence, and are ever ready, at a
moment's warning, to take service, as hunters, guides, or
interpreters, and travel off hundreds of miles from home.
They serve entirely in these capacities, and are universally
known and esteemed by travellers in our wild territories, in
fact, it is almost impossible to get any other Indians to
perform these duties ; they are either too selfish, too lazy,
or too ignorant, and when applied for, always make the same
reply, " Delaware he do dat, may be so you get him."
We tried the experiment as a matter of curiosity when
in the Choctaw and Chickasaw country, but to no purpose.
They all knew the capabilities of the Delawares, and always
84 NOTES TAKEN.
'"%
ended by suggesting them. They are a noble race, very
athletic, but short in stature.
It is a religious principle with them never to run from the
foe, a fact which their enemies attribute to a funny cause,
viz., the shortness of their legs, they say "Delaware can't
run, he got short leg, must stand and fight heap."
One of their superstitions is, that the Great Spirit in the
shape of a huge eagle hovers over them. When pleased,
he appears in the clouds, and occasionally drops a feather.
When angry, he rises out of sight, and speaks in thunder.
The feather is supposed to render the wearer invulnerable.
The Delawares and Shawnees assimilate and intermarry.
We expected an addition of three Delawares and a Shawnee,
at Fort Belknap, thus making our Indian corps complete, and
formidable.
Sun down, found the camp all bustle, preparatory to a
night march, and ere the harvest moon showed her calm pale
face, we were on the road to Gainesville, where we arrived in
two hours.
This collection of five or six log cabins, dignified with the
name of a town, was rendered celebrated in the annals of
storms by a most terrific tornado, which occurred here on
the twenty-eighth of May, (the same whose ravages I before
remarked upon in the Choctaw Nation), the traces of which,
had they not come under my observation, too palpably to be
mistaken, I should have put down in the same category with
the Munchauseii stories.
FURIOUS TORNADO. * 85
About dark, on the day mentioned, this storm arose, and
passing over the country in a vein a mile wide, left marks of
its ravages, which were as indelible as they were destructive.
The motion of the tornado was undulatory, evidenced by
the manner in which every thing it came in contact with was
treated ; as for instance, a very heavy ox wagon was taken
up and carried a quarter of a mile, where it stuck in the
ground to the axletree ; taken up again, it was carried several
hundred yards farther, and there the wheels were twisted off,
and a tire broken and twisted into several pieces.
Fences were blown off, driven into the ground, broken off,
and again blown a long distance.
Two women were taken up and blown three-quarters of
a mile, impinging three times against the ground in their
terrific flight.
A -horse was blown into a tree, where it happened to
catch by its fore-leg and shoulder ; these vrere torn from
the body and were still hanging there, the balance of the
carcase lying in a field full a-quarter of a mile off.
A sheep was blown into the top of a high tree, where we
saw it as we passed.
The strata of wind seems also to have been about ten
feet, from the ground, rising and falling, as the trees in its
course were broken off in a manner clearly so to indicate.
One house, also, was blown down to the foundations, whilst
another, beyond and in a line with it, had the roof taken off.
In short, the whole scene indicated the result of great and
8*
86 NOTES TAKEN.
inconceivable power exerted, fortunately attended with but
little loss of life and limb.
The same tornado destroyed the buildings and the beauti-
ful ;parade at Fort Towson, one hundred and forty miles
distant, creating a most singular coincidence, viz. : orders
had just been received to abandon the post, and remove the
troops, &c., to Fort Arbuckle ; these were nearly executed,
when the tornado occurred ; so that, in the same week, it was
abandoned by government and also by heaven, and is now a
complete ruin.
Being considerably in advance of the train, P e and
myself went to a small store to make some purchases, when
a laughable incident occurred.
On our way to the store, we met a man with but one leg,
who proved to be the proprietor.
P e, in conversation, asked him how he lost his leg ;
he told us, and proved to be a jolly fellow.
An article we wanted not being on hand, he directed us
to another store near his ; on going into which, what was
our surprise to find its proprietor also minus a leg, and
before we completed our purchase, our quondam acquaint-
ance came in, when upon my remarking that two one-legged
men were quite a large proportion for so small a place
" Oh," says he, * there are two more, and three of us board
at the same house ; I shouldn't wonder if he came in, he's
here a'most every night," and sure enough he did (strange
QUEER LINGO. 87
as it may appear), and joined in our merry laugh at so funny
a coincidence.
I proposed a race for a bottle of whiskey, when, to our
surprise, they assented, and started off up the road, whilst
we, dying with laughter, were obliged to ride off, being
behind the train some distance.
A more absurdly ridiculous sight cannot be imagined,
than the six crutches and three legs scampering off in the
moonlight. Long and loud were our shouts of laughter and
those of our camp companions, when we related the scene,
and Gainesville remains the one-legged settlement, from
that date, in our memories.
In an hour, we arrived at the last house in Texas, and
entering a piece of timber which crossed our road a spur
of the Cross Timbers found it impracticable on account of
the late storm, and consequently were obliged to encamp
until a road could be cut through.
We retraced our steps to a clear spring, near the house,
and despite musquitoes, which abounded in thousands,
camped for the night.
During our detention, I visited the house to make pur-
chases, if possible, of eggs, chickens, milk, &c., for our mess,
and was much amused as I had been before at the pecu-
liar parlance of the settlers, as for instance " Will you sell
me some eggs?" "We ha'nt got nar an eggs." "Any
chickens?" "We ha'nt got nar a chickens." "Any milk?"
88 NOTES TAKEN.
" We ha'nt got nary milk." These replies were given with
a strong nasal twang, totally indescribable. I made out,
however, at length, to get "a chickens" and returned to
camp with the odd lingo still ringing in my ears.
July 5th. Our camp proved very uncomfortable and bare
of pasture, so as soon as the road was clear, we struck tents
and made a short march to a fresh and grassy meadow on
the banks of Elm Fork of Trinity River.
At the crossing of this stream, we made some very inter-
esting fossiliferous collections, among the rest a nautilus,
very large and an entirely new species.
During the afternoon, Wagon saddled up and was gone
about half an hour, when he returned with his first deer, a
fat doe.
The stream abounded in fish, among which was a new
species of cat-fish of a deep jet black, several of which were
added to our collection.
Preparatory to our night march, we all indulged in a
delicious bath in this clear limestone water, and at sunset
were off, with a thunder-storm rumbling in the east, and
lighted on our way by the prairie on fire in our rear. A
high wind arose just as we started, and the cook's fire being
scattered, a fine effect was produced, as the night waxed
older and the storm-cloud grew blacker on one side a
pillar of fire on the other a pillar of cloud and the wilder-
ness between a striking picture of the sublime, which left
a deep impression upon us all.
RATTLESNAKE HUNT. 89
We made a very long march and at midnight encamped
upon a branch of the same stream.
July 6th. This morning our Indians rendered us a most
important service.
The fatigue of the last march had made the ostlers care-
less, and our horses having been loosely picketed, every
horse but two was missing at daylight.
Fearful of consequences, the frightened ostlers were
scouring around for hours, but unsuccessfully, when report
being made to the Captain, he dispatched the Delawares,
who quietly saddling up, were gone about an hour, and
returned with the whole troop, besides each had shot a fat
doe, so that with the one shot yesterday venison abounded
in camp. The plan they pursued was to ride in a straight
line to the outside of the pickets, and then make a circle
completely around camp, before completing which, they
struck the trail of the stray animals, and following it up
soon overtook them.
The stream here was very narrow, but afforded water suf-
ficient for our use, and a short distance above camp we found
a pool large enough to bathe in, which we availed ourselves
of just before starting in the evening.
A bright moon shon'e over us on this our last march
before reaching the Upper Cross Timbers. In fine spirits
our party rolled along, cracking jokes and carolling
snatches of wild song, when just as we passed the brow
of a hill, our harmony was checked by a rapid k-r-r-r-r
90 NOTES TAKEN.
k-r-r-r-r, rattle, rattle, rattle, and a voice exclaimed, "look
out, look to your left," and sure enough, there, almost under
my horse's feet and coiled ready to strike, lay an enormous
diamond rattlesnake, looking ten times more deadly in the
moonlight. Bang ! bang ! went revolvers k-r-r-r-r, k-r-r-r-r,
went the rattle " there he goes," " here he is," " there,
hit him with your ramrod," "ah, that will do," "now,
bring him out." " My eyes, what a whopper ! did yees iver
see the like ? sure we have none of sich divils in the ould
country, the bloody tief ; what do they make sich a ting fur
ony how ?" said Paddy Thompson (the same lad who had his
eyes bunged in the late melee) " hould im up 'till I look at
im," and there he hung, six feet long and eleven rattles,
" an soul, but it's mesilf 'ill kape out o' the weeds if there
mony jintilmen like him there," said the same genius. This
was the first large specimen we had met with. Our long
boots and thick gloves were now indispensable, as these jintle-
men are not at all trustworthy.
This Thompson was a queer specimen of the Emerald Isle.
An old deserter from the British army, he was the Caleb
Quotem of his company, soldier, smith, carpenter, shoemaker,
poet and vocalist, but his love of whiskey kept him in the
hands of the guard more than three-fourths of his time.
It was amusing, on the march, to hear him rolling out his
Irish camp songs, one of which the confounded refrain of
which rings in my ears as I write called the fate of Nell
Flaherty's Drake, was a great favorite among his comrades,
THE BIVOUAC. 91
and even whilst blind from his fight, his voice could be heard
with the richest brogue and merriest tone, as though nothing
had happened.
Such is the rakish, vagabond spirit of the Irishman, which
suffering cannot depress, privation cannot subdue. The s61-
dier and laborer of the world, in the words of the old song
" Och, for drinkin', for fightin' or handlin' the flail,
"Whoop, the boys of ould Ireland will niver turn tail."
About nine o'clock we halted for the night near a small
pond skirted with timber, and the weather being so warm,
concluded to sleep " en bivouac." It was not long before the
insect world made us sensible of their presence, and after
enduring their attacks for a brief season, I left my blanket
under the trees, and started to see how the Indians managed.
They always bivouaced some distance from camp, and upon my
approach I saw a sight which caused me to stop and admire.
They had divested themselves of their scanty attire, and
with their blankets spread under them, sat cross-legged, erect,
and perfectly motionless, looking like two bronze statues in
the moonlight. It was a study for the sculptor, a moment to
realize a preconceived idea of symmetry in form and grace in
posture.
At this season they always sleep in the open prairie, and
away from trees or underbrush. Taking the hint, I moved
my quarters also out into the moonlight and enjoyed my rest,
whilst my companions were slapping and scratching in the
busiest manner all night.
92 NOTES TAKEN.
CHAPTER VII.
UPPER CROSS TIMBERS TO LITTLE WITCHITA.
Thoughts at Sunset. Enter the Timber. Camp fire half way. Old soldier
brought in. Jackson's Adventure. Singular Mounds. The Delawares in
Camp. Sunset Scene. Arrive at Little Witchita.
JULY 7th. At an early hour the Captain decided to cross
the remaining three miles of road intervening to the edge of
the Upper Cross Timbers, and encamping for the day, com-
mence the passage early in the evening.
Soon the train was in motion, and without breakfast we
marched briskly along, snuffing the fresh air of the flowery and
dew-spangled prairie, until we reached a clear limestone spring
where tents were soon pitched and preparations made to satisfy
appetites keenly sharpened by the morning's work.
Before leaving our bivouac I caught an enormous tarantula
and a large species of wasp, which burrows in the sand and is
very venomous, as it avenged its death by stinging me, from
the effects of which my hand was lame for a week.
One of the men caught a large diamond rattlesnake, five
feet long, with eight rattles, which being unbruised I prepared
for our collection ; we also caught a new species of lizard and
made some addition to our fossils.
Wagon brought in another fat doe, and Jackson brought
GRAND SCENERY. 93
me a cup of his cold flour gruel to taste, which was a great
curiosity to me. It tasted like mush, and was very palatable
and cooling.
We caught several horned frogs, a species of lizard, very
nimble and curious little creatures, quite harmless, and long-
lived, even when deprived of food, one having been kept six
months unfed.
In this way the day passed pleasantly and quickly, and
sunset found us all ready to enter the timber.
The road from our camp ascended gradually over the
prairie for about a mile, when suddenly and abruptly we
found ourselves upon the brink of a steep and precipitous
descent. On either side large grassy bluffs stood like
fortifications, terrace and bastion rising one over the other,
as if to guard the entrance. Below, stretching as far as the
eye could reach, lay the apparently interminable forest of
the Cross Timbers, like a barrier, on passing which we were
to be shut out from civilization, its joys and cares, for many,
many weeks.
We all stopped involuntarily to cast a last lingering look
North, where lay all that we held most dear, and home,
sweet home, never sounded more sadly sweet than when
sung at that hour, with the last rays of a summer sunset
deepening the shadows of the battlemented mounds and
darkening the thick foliage at our feet. One look more,
one sigh, one heartfelt prayer to Heaven that we might be
9
94 NOTES TAKEN.
spared to return and tell of all the wonders and beauties of
nature we had seen and were to see, and we were gone.
The long twilight and the bright moon succeeding made
our journey through the woods much easier than we had
anticipated, though the road was much broken and the
trees low, stunted and very dense.
The timber is post oak and black jack, and the soil very
poor.
Though these night marches prevented our making many
observations along the road, still they were very judicious,
as the oxen escaped the heat, and better still, the flies,
which as I before observed rendered them almost unman-
ageable. There is a wildness about them, also, which
renders them very fascinating. To watch the shadows
grow deeper and deeper, to let the fancy play and imagine
a lurking foe in every thicket, or fashion a stunted tree or
a bush into a panther or a wolf then to ride in advance of
the train, build a fire, and flinging oneself upon the ground,
snatch a few moments sleep, or carol out some camp-fire
ditty, with wolves howling in the distance, and miles of
uninhabited country around, is a romance in real life, which
to be enjoyed must be experienced.
Intending to pass entirely through before camping, we
stopped half-way to rest the cattle, and lighting a blazing
fire, our sad thoughts at sunset gave way to many a rollick-
some glee and hearty joke, until the old woods rang with
merriment, and the bright moon seemed to shine brighter
JACKSON'S SURPRISE. 95
still upon our noisy bivouac. Paddy Thompson came in to
report that he had found " an ould citizen feller" as he ex-
pressed himself in the woods and brought him in, and
"sowl," said he, "I wouldn't ha' got him at all, only he
kaughed in the grass, then I knowed it was a humin." He
proved to be a poor, squalid-looking, half-clad and half-
crazed creature, who had been a soldier. He was now
wandering about half starved, trying to find his way to
Fort Belknap. The officers told him to keep with the com-
mand, but as soon as he had supped off the contents of a
haversack, he disappeared and we saw no more of him.
In an hour we were again under way, and reaching the
prairie we pitched our tents, picketed our horses, and all,
except the sentinels, were soon wrapt in sleep.
July 8th. This morning Jackson was missing. He soon
came in, however, and with a most lugubrious countenance,
related his story of the night.
He said " Me see de fire light, den me tink, may be so
he camp here. Me take blanket, lie down, go sleep ; me
git up, no man is dere ; may be so all gone ; now is day
light, me see trail, come on." This he said in reference to
our camp fire half way. It was a perilous nap for him, but
one, no doubt, he was accustomed to.
Indians always speak in the masculine, third person
singular, when alluding to persons or things, and the
phrase " may be so" is constantly introduced into their
conversations.
96 NOTES TAKEN.
They speak very broken English, and I found they
understood me much better when I spoke to them in the
same way, a correct and connected speech, seeming to
confuse them.
Last night's march fatigued us all very much, so that we
slept long and soundly.
The day passed in reading, writing and dozing, with the
thermometer at one hundred in the shade, and nightfall
found the train "streched out" as it is called, and all ready
for the road.
The day's repose put us all in order for the enjoyment of
our ride, which was a long one, but under such a sky and in
such a country time and space are easily annihilated.
We passed at midnight a singular mound upon the open
prairie, which we ascended and had an extensive moonlight
view.
This mound was evidently natural, curious from the fact,
that it was the only mass of earth and rock in sight rising
from the surface, and that it rose abruptly, from a narrow
base, to a height of over one hundred feet.
It was doubtless the remains of the ancient super strata
of prairie, which worn by time and washing, has fallen from
the level of the great Llano Exetacao, to its present general
surface.
At daylight we encamped upon a tributary of Red River.
July 9th. Turning night into day does well enough for
cattle and horses, but its effect upon the human biped was
DRYING SKINS. 97
very perceptible in the lounging step, the hearty yawn and
the disordered look of every one and everything about camp.
Our Indians, were the only ones stirring until a late hour,
and when we turned out, two deer were ready for the spit, the
proceeds of their morning's work.
I have been struck with the thorough going manner of these
Delaware s.
When anything was to be done, not even conversation wns
indulged in until it was finished.
So soon as they had deposited their game at the door of the
Captain's tent, they turned their attention to drying the skins ;
this they did by stretching them in every part by means of
long thin sticks, fastened upon the hair side, and then hanging
them in the sun, and air. After this as this was their day
to draw rations of sugar, coffee and flour bread was baked
and coffee roasted, they then prepared a meal, and afterwards
lounged, chatting, smoking or dozing, until the time for
making ready for the road, a good example, worthy of imita-
tion, business first, ease afterwards.
Having observed another mound about, as I thought, a
quarter of a mile off, I started on foot to explore it, when, to
my surprise, an hour elapsed ere I reached the top, so decep-
tive are distances on the prairie.
This mound was more elevated, but less abrupt than the
former one.
I found on top a rude structure, built of loose stones, but
A
9*
CJ8 NOTES TAKEN.
whether intended as an altar for sacrifice, or constructed as
an additional land mark, it was impossible to tell.'
Some buffalo bones were strewn around, and I roused a
large grey eagle from his eyrie on the rocks ; who, evincing
rather a hostile manner, I thought most prudent to make my
descent; not before, however, enjoying the view, decidedly
the finest sunset scene I had yet met with.
There is a kind of grass, which grows on the prairie, in
patches, resembles timothy, and when in seed has a long
shining cottony head. It required but little stretch of the
imagination to form these patches into lakes, glistening in
the sunstt, so that with our large herd feeding, tents pitched,
and white covered wagons, dotting the plain, I had as fine a
pastoral scene before me as could be desired.
The bustle in camp and the lengthening shadows ad-
monished me that it was time to mount ; so hastening back,
Lieut. C n, the Doctor, and myself, mounted, took the
head of the train, and led off on our grass-grown way. Soon
an object appears on the distant horizon, " a deer," said one,
"a horse," said another," "no, its a man," we all exclaim
together. Now the sight of a strange face and form, in those
wilds, is by far the most remarkable that can be met with.
It is like meeting with a strange sail at sea ; curiosity and
suspicion are both aroused, so that the moment a human
form is descried, every one is on the alert. " Let us recon-
noitre," was our first exclamation, after deciding upon the
OLD SOLDIER. 99
genus in the distance, so away we went, when, lo and behold,
our "ould citizen feller" again. Poor old wretch, he had
become bewildered, from fatigue, hunger and thirst, and
turning round in his tracks, was travelling away from, instead
of towards the fort. Humanity now prompted Lieut. C n
to put him in charge of the guard, so that he reached Fort
Belknap without any further adventures.
Our march was a very long one, but a party of us managed
to get to the camping ground about midnight, where, building
a fire, we resigned ourselves to sleep until the train came up.
100 NOTES TAKEN.
CHAPTEE VIII.
LITTLE WITCHITA TO COTTON WOOD SPRING.
Curious phenomenon. Buffalo signs seen. History of the buffalo. Deer bleat
Me.oquite trees. Captain leaves for Belknap. Ox killed. Wolves abundant.
Indian relics found. Wild horse tracks seen. Wild passion flower. Kickapoo
camp. Arrive at Cotton Wood Spring.
JULY 10th. Our camp was on the head waters of the
South fork of the Little Witchita.
At this point the stream did not run at this season, but we
found plenty of water in holes in the bed.
Some years since, Captain Mafcy (in passing along this
route with a command,) encamped at this point, and notices
in his report a singular phenomena, which, to superstitious
minds, would have been taken for a great and good omen.
Arriving here, he found the bed of the stream entirely dry,
but dispatching men up its course to search for water, they
soon came running back, shouting, "look out boys, here
comes plenty of water ;" and sure enough the river soon ran
bank full. The Captain supposes that the water had been
dammed up by brush wood, &c., and suddenly burst through
in sufficient quantity to create the apparent miracle. On
such grounds many so called supernatural events may be
explained.
BUFFALO. 101
After breakfast, this morning, the Captain started (as was
his usual custom when in camp) to hunt and explore in the
neighbourhood. He returned with news of having seen
tracks of quite a herd of buffalo, a most unusual thing now
in this country, and which excited us all very much, as a
buffalo hunt is the prime sport of the prairies.
This animal is rapidly disappearing from the plains. But
eight years since, herds roamed around the City of Austin, and
were frequently seen in the streets ; now there are tmt few to
be found south of Red River, so that a sight even, but of all
things a chase, would have been an episode in our camp life,
affording us both interest and excitement. As the species is
becoming extinct, all facts connected with their history
become interesting and important.
They were once found in countless herds over almost the
whole continent of North America, from Lake Champlain to
the Rocky Mountains, and from the twenty-eighth to the
fiftieth degree of North latitude, and were then only killed in
quantity sufficient to furnish the Indian with food, clothing
and lodges, but the havoc made among them by white men
for their skins, and thousands of them for their tongues alone,
has thinned their numbers, and driven them to -a narrow
section of country, between the^ settlements and the base of
the Rocky Mountains. A few extracts from ancient authors
may not be uninteresting in connection with this subject.
In a work published at Amsterdam, in 1637, called " New
English Canaan," by Thomas Morton, one of the first settlers
102 NOTES TAKEN.
of New England, he says, "The Indians have also made
description of great keards of well groune beasts that live
about the parts of this lake (Erocoise), now Lake Champlain,
such as the Christian world (until this discovery,) hath not
bin made acquainted with.
"These beasts are of the bigness of a cowe, their flesh being
very good foode, their hides good leather; their fleeces very
useful, being a kind of ivoole, as fine almost as the woole of
the beaver ; and the salvages do make garments thereof.
" It is tenne yeares since first the relation of these things
came to the eares of the English."
Another author (Purchas) states, that as early as in 1613,
the adventurers in Virginia discovered a "slow kinde of
cattell as bigge as kine, which were good meate."
In a work published in London, in 1589, by Hukluyt, it is
stated, that in the island of New Foundland were found
"mightie beastes, like to camels in greatness, and their feete
were cloven." He then says, "I did see them /a/re off, not
able to discerne them perfectly, but their steps showed that
their feete were cloven, and bigger than the feete of camels.
I suppose them to be a kind of buffes, which I read to bee in
the countreys adjacent, and very many in thejirme land."
Colonel Fremont publishes some interesting statistics of
these animals, in his report, and states the number ascer-
tained to have been slaughtered in one year (1849) to be six
hundred thousand. With this rapid diminution in their
numbers, they must in a few years be entirely exterminated.
DEER BLEAT. 103
During the morning, Wagon brought in a doe and fawn.
It made me sad to see the delicate little fawn stretched upon
the grass, cold and dead. I enjoyed the rich, juicy flesh, 'tis
true, but the means taken to procure it went against my
feelings.
Our Delawares, used a little instrument called a bleat, to
lure the does ; it is made in two pieces, the lower one pre-
cisely like the upper part of a clarionet ; On this is fitted a
hollow mouth piece, and by closing the end of the lower
piece, filling the upper with air and opening and shutting the
lower alternately, the cry of the fawn is imitated so exactly
as to lure the doe within shot, thus making the affection of the
mother for her young, the means of her death, a piece of bar-
barity which I could not sanction, though I must confess my
prairie appetite overcame my scruples under the influence of
the savoury odour of the smoking haunch.
It is not always consistent with safety to use the bleat in a
wild country, as sometimes a panther or a bear may be at-
tracted by the sound, and unless the hunter has his wits about
him, he may suffer for his sport.
The following incidents, which happened during a former
expedition, will illustrate this. Captain Marcy, endeavoured
to lure one of a herd of antelopes, that were feeding some
distance from him, one day when away from camp, when just
as he was in the act of firing upon one, which had been de-
coyed within range of his rifle, his attention was drawn to a
rustling in the grass, and to his surprise, he saw an enormous
104 NOTES TAKEN.
panther, bounding towards him and within twenty paces. In-
stantly changing the direction of his rifle, he fired and suc-
ceeded in dispatching the animal the Indian guide also, once
lured a doe and fawn within range, when a panther anti-
cipated him by seizing the fawn, but was immediately shot.
A large horned adder was added to our collection to-day,
sunset found us again on the march, and ten miles brought us
to a branch of the Trinity where we fixed our camp for the
next day.
July llth. The country we ,had been passing over, since
leaving the Cross Timbers, was a rolling prairie, very thin in
soil and timber very scarce. At this point we began to find
the Mesquite trees in great abundance.
This growth is a very singular one, variously called Mes-
quite, Mezkeet, Musquit and Muckeet. The trees grow short
and scrubby, seldom attaining a height of twenty feet, with
the trunk, from four to fifteen inches in diameter. The
limbs are short, crooked and very thickly studded with sharp
thorns. The leaf is pinnated, long, and the leaflets elliptical,
the bark a dark gray, resembling that of the peach tree, the
wood coarse grained and very brittle, with the heart like
dark mahogany. It burns readily, with a clear flame, leaving
a very hot and perfect coal, like hickory.
The trees grow singly, and at such regular intervals as to
resemble a plantation, and so much like a peach orchard that
one cannot divest himself of the idea, in entering a grove,
MESQUITE TREES. 105
that he is approaching a house, and involuntarily listens for
the watch-dog's bark, or some other sign of human habitation
So much so is this the case that the sutler at Fort Belknap,
relates a laughable incident (connected with this subject) of
one of his teamsters, who one evening, on the route from Fort
Smith, with a load of stores, got behind the train, and on
coming into camp without his team, was asked where he had
left it, " Out in that old peach orchard," was his reply.
They bear a long slender bean, from which a cooling
beverage is made by the Mexicans, and being saccharine and
nutritious, is used for food by the Indians on the plains, and
makes excellent forage for horses and mules.
It affords a gum, which exudes from any braise or incision,
and no doubt will answer all the purposes of the gum arabic,
in fact it belongs to the same family as the acacia.
The mesquite is almost the only tree to be found over a
vast region in the South West, and from its many useful
qualities, among which, not the least is its durability for
building purposes will be invaluable to the future settlers.
The distressed condition of our oxen, determined the
Captain to precede the train, go in to Fort Belknap forty
miles off complete his arrangements and meet us fifteen
miles out, from which point we commenced our unexplored
journey into the wilds of Texas.
We were all soon busy in writing the few last words home
which it would be our privilege to send for a long time.
Hearts and homes, sweet words of pleasure, how clings
10
106 NOTES TAKEN.
affection round your memories. The sunny hours of childhood,
the sterner realities of manhood, the ties of filial and domestic
affection, all crowd upon the thoughts at such a moment,
never so fully appreciated, so fondly loved, as when about to
say farewell perhaps forever. We all felt the influence of our
solitude and isolation, and sadly wore the day away until sun-
set brought the hour of preparation for our midnight march.
During the day 'three new species of lizards, and several
fish were added to our collection. In the afternoon the
Captain and the Doctor left us, and marching at nightfall,
eight miles brought us again to the Trinity where we
encamped. *
Shortly after getting to camp, it was determined to kill
an ox, who had broken a horn and was quite unruly.
An hour had not elapsed, before we had a beautiful con-
cert of whines, yells and barks from a pack of at least one
hundred wolves, who snuffing the blood, stationed themselves
around us and kept up their hungry serenade until day
dawned.
The wolf met with here, was the gray species, with a long
bushy tail, very cowardly and voracious.
Their tone is not a howl, but a whining yell ending in a
short quick bark, both mournful, monotonous and grating
on the ear, and very effectual in driving away sleep, when
surrounded by such a host as annoyed us that night.
July 12th. The prairie around our camp was very much
broken, and the soil barren.
WILD PASSION FLOWER. 107
A stroll, in search of better grass, brought Lieut C n
and myself to an old Indian camp, where we found some
beads and other relics.
We also saw numerous tracks of wild horses, where they
had come to drink at a water hole in the prairie, which was
at this time dry.
Tarantulas and centipedes abounded in great numbers, and
we made quite a collection of very large specimens.
Nightfall, as usual, found us on the march, but on account
of the scarcity of water we made slow progress, and finding
a good spring on the open prairie, we encamped near it.
July 13th. The prairie was still much broken and rough,
affording a fine field for our collections in natural history,
among the rocks and ravines. "We took advantage of it, and
lizards, rattlesnakes, and the insect tribe, were brought in
in numbers.
One of the men brought me a most singular and beautiful
vine. It was the wild passion flower, at that season bearing
both fruit and flowers. The flower is similar to the one
known in the conservatories Xorth, and the fruit is about the
size of a nectarine, of a brilliant red colour on the outside and
orange inside. It looked very inviting, but is not edible. I
collected the seeds, however, intending to try how it will
stand our northern climate, where, should it flourish, it will
make a most graceful and gorgeous ornament for the arbor
or portico.
We marched at sunset, Lieut. P e going in advance to
108 NOTES TAKEN.
find water. He left word that wherever he found it he would
build a fire as a signal. Several hours elapsed when we saw
a fire some distance off the road. Supposing of course that
it was his, Lieut. C n and myself rode up to it, when we
suddenly found ourselves in a hunting camp of Kickapoos.
We had several times remarked upon the scarcity of game
on our route, having seen only an occasional deer, and those
brought in by the Indians, causing them to hunt long dis-
tances from the direct line of march. This scarcity was
now explained ; the Kickapoos are the most famous hunters
known, and when they pass over a section of country game
almost disappears for a season.
Their plan is to hunt in sufficient numbers to cover a
long line of country, and moving forward in this order, with
their families, pack-horses, &c., they sweep off every thing
before them. Their women were busy dressing skins and
drying venison. The skins were stretched around a square
frame, made of poles stuck in the ground, with a fire built in
the middle ; the meat they cut in long thin strips and laid it
on top of poles bent into a semicircle, forming a kind of
large coop, and then built a slow fire underneath.
It was a wild scene, at the murk hour, to come upon these
naked dusky savages bustling in the lurid glare of their
fires, and looking like so many demons from the background
where we stood.
We found tolerable water near them, both in quantity and
quality, and concluded to encamp for the night.
KICKAPOOS. 109
After pitching tents we visited them again, when they
offered us some venison and seemed quite friendly.
An old and very gaudy dressing-gown which I wore,
attracted their particular attention, and one of the squaws
attempted to gratify her curiosity by handling me with her
great greasy paws, but I kept moving round about and
avoided contact, as nothing could be more disgusting than
these copper-colored greasy wenches, naked except a filthy
rag around their loins, their skins reeking with perspiration,
and hair matted and uncombed. We soon gratified our
curiosity and returned to camp.
Just as we were about to retire to our blankets, voices
were heard in the distance and two young officers from the
fort drove up, giving us the intelligence that the Captain and
the Doctor were safe, and that eight miles further we should
reach the Cottonwood Spring, a well-known camping-ground
for troops passing to and fro, and the spot designated by the
Captain where we were to await his return with Major
Neighbours and the additional Indian hunters and guides.
It was now midnight, but the order was given, and in a
short time we were off to the cool water, where we arrived
just as day dawned ; fatigued, but fortunate in reaching the
only really good water we had had since leaving the Basin
Spring. A few hours sleep and we were all right again.
10*
110 NOTES TAKEN.
CHAPTER IX.
CAMP AT THE COTTON WOOD SPRING.
Officers leave. Dofcription of Camp Wild Indians come in. Treatment of
Squaws. Visit of the Indians. Indian Bivouac. Departure of Indians
Captain and party arrive. Major Neighbours. Description of our Indian
Corps.
July 14th. The young officers returned to the fort this
morning, accompanied by Lieutenant P e, leaving Lieu-
tenant C n, and myself alone in camp.
We were encamped in a pleasant mesquite grove, in sight
of the cool spring, and though the weather was hot, a fine
breeze so tempered the atmosphere that our stay was very
reviving after night marches, with muddy rain-water to drink.
Whilst lying in our tents, about noon, we descried some
objects advancing over the brow of the hill in front of camp,
and soon found them to be a party of To-wac-o-nies and
Waco's on their return from Fort Belknap.
They halted a short distance from our camp, and the women
commenced putting up their temporary shelter, from sun and
storm, which they constructed of boughs, skins, blankets, &c.
The chief (an ugly old creature, a fac simile of a super-
annuated monkey,) soon rode up, and dismounting near his
half finished lodge, threw himself upon the grass, whilst
his wife about to become a mother- stopped her work,
AK-A-QUAPir. Ill
immediately, to unbridle, unsaddle and tether his horse, for of
course, he disdained the smallest labour or assistance to her.
The principal use the wild Indian makes of his wife or
wives is to wait upon him, she takes his horse and attends
to it when he halts, saddles, bridles and brings it up when he
wishes to ride, cooks his meals, puts up the temporary
lodge or shealting, and dresses what skins may be obtained
in the chase, in fact, does all the manual labour necessary in
their wandering life.
Her lord lounges, sleeps, drinks, smokes, eats, fights,
hunts, and not unfrequently, rewards her with a sound
drubbing, the only extra physical exertion he ever makes.
In the afternoon, the old chief made us a visit. He was full
of affection for the whites, and showed us a certificate of
character, (no doubt written by some worthless scamp, as
we ascertained the old fellow to be a most arrant knave
and horse-thief,) from which we learned his name to be
Ak-a-quash.
He was very importunate in his begging propensities, and
not at all modest in his demands, as the sequel proved.
He wanted meat, tobacco, flour, coffee and sugar, not salt
meat either, for that he got at Belknap ; and taking up some
yellow sand in his fingers, he said, " Belknap suker so."
Meaning that he wanted white sugar ; pretty well for a wild
Indian, living the precarious life they do. We told him he
must be satisfied with what he could get, not what he wanted,
nnd ho did not refuse what we offered him.
112 NOTES TAKEN.
Soon after, the whole gang gathered round, and then such a
chattering among the squaws, like so many monkeys, running
round and handling every thing and begging for every thing
they saw.
A son of the old Chief made his appearance last, in full
court costume, and a most laughable sight he was.
He had on a pair of moccasins, leggings made out of an old
pair of soldier's pantaloons, a blue breech cloth, and an old
greasy, summer sack coat, over which he wore an old
fashioned full uniformed infantry coat minus one tail, the
other, as Ak-a-quash told us, having been cut off by one of
his comrades to get at his bottle of whiskey, whilst he lay
drunk and asleep at Fort Belknap. His face was painted
half a dozen colours, his ears loaded down with large brass
rings, and with a shock head of hair, to one of the side locks
of which was attached an old red worsted comforter, he pre-
sented the most ludicrous figure imaginable, more particularly
as he seemed so well pleased with himself, and strutted about
like a young turkey cock.
Among his other accomplishments he had learned to swear,
and kept repeating two oaths constantly in all he had to say.
How strange the perversion, that man, whether civilized or
savage, is so apt to copy vice, so slow to imitate virtue !
To attempt to teach the savage to read, to write, to sow, to
reap, is a thankless undertaking ; to learn him to smoke, to
drink, to swear, can be effected in the shortest time, and by
any tyro in vicious indulgence.
THE DANDY.. 113
Pretty soon, however, the young dandy had his pride and
consequence humbled.
Ak-a-quash was very importunate for something to drink,
and as we had no spirits of any kind to give him, we offered
him some lemonade, made with citric acid and oil of lemon.
He drank it quite greedily, which the youth observing, held
out his hand for a glassful; he drank it, but it proved too
much for his stomach, irritated by his late debauch ; a pipe
of tobacco and the acid together, to use a common saying,
fixed him, the consequences I leave to imagination, suffice it
to say he left as soon as he could get the use of his legs.
By this time they had become very annoying to us, the day
was oppressively hot, and the squaws keeping up such a chat-
tering and running around, and the necessity of watching
them closely to prevent them stealing, so that ordering up the
commissary corporal, some beef, flour and sugar were handed
to them, and pointing to the hill-top, we told them as plainly
as signs could, to be off, which they did, not before, however,
making another attack upon our sugar bowl and tobacco box.
I obtained a great curiosity from one of the sub chiefs in
this party. It was a pair of ear-rings made out of a species of
sea shell variegated and brilliant. They are said to be brought
from the islands of the Pacific Coast, and to find their way
to these wanderers through the traders. They were very
large and massive.
The sub chief was badly shod, having on an old pair of torn
prunella gaiter boots. He took a fancy to a pair of stout
114 NOTES TAKEN.
walking shoes I had, but chaffered a good while before bar-
gaining. He was willing to give one for both, but I said by
signs, one -ear-ring, one shoe; he took it, supposing perhaps
that I would give him the other, but after waiting awhile he
pointed to the other shoe and held out his other ear-ring, when
I gave him the shoe, took the ear-ring, and he went off satis-
fied.
These Indians go entirely naked, except the breech cloth,
unless chance or crime throws some garment into their way,
and laughable enough they look sometimes, as for instance
One of the squaws had not an article of clothing on her but
an old filthy rag round her loins, and a gay calico sun lonnct
on Jier head.
The squaws were tattoed on the breast and face ; in lines
on the face, and circles on the breasts.
Their young children of which there were six or eight with
the party were entirely naked not wearing the breech cloth
but seemed healthy, and were amusing themselves with
miniature bows and arrows.
In the evening, Lieutenant C n and myself visited
their bivouac, when they all came out "in puris naturalibus,"
and danced to the devil's tattoo, beat upon the bottom of a
tin can by one of the men, a wild, monotonous chaunt being
kept up at the same time by the dancers, varied by short
yells and grunts, upon the whole a very disgusting scene, as
young "sans" coat tail swore a great deal, and took liberties
with the squaws not very agreeable to eyes polite.
THE SQUAWS. 115
One old squaw, with a head of long, matted white hair,
pointed first to the stalwart men among the dancers and
then to her naked, shrivelled breasts, thereby informing us
that five of them were her sons, and then pointing to one of
the squaws and a boy along side, showed by signs that he was
her grandson. She also, by raising her hands seven times,
with her fingers spread open, informed us she was seventy
years old.
We soon left, quite satisfied that were we to take them
prisoners and either confine or kill them, in either case
we would be doing good service, for except their greater
capacity for mischief, there was no difference between them
and the wolves, which at the time, were keeping their nightly
patrol around camp in search of plunder.
July 15th. The Indians left this morning, passing by our
camp in true Indian style, viz., Ak-a-quash first, carrying
nothing but his weapons, then the men of the party, and last,
the squaws, some with a child tied in a bag and fastened
around her loins, or seated upon a bundle of skins, upon the
horse's croup.
The women rode astride, and their duty was to drive the
pack horses and take care of the baggage, this being done
even by the aged squaw, naked and bareheaded, but astride
upon a pack, and armed with a whip, labouring away at the
straggling pack horses, whilst her great louts of sons and
grandsons rode along, listless, naked, and brutal, thinking of
nothing but where they should get their next meal, or steal
116 NOTES TAKEN.
their next lot of horses ; truly, thought I, what is the use in
spending time and money at this age of the world, to en-
courage such brutality and vice.
In the evening the Captain, Doctor, and Major Neigh-
bours arrived. They brought with them three Delawares
and a Shawnee, the addition to our Indian force which we
expected, thus making our corps of guides and hunters six
strong.
Major Neighbours was a fine looking man, in the full vigour
of manhood, about six feet two inches in height, with a coun-
tenance indicative of great firmness and decision of character.
He was the Indian Agent for Texas, and joined the expe-
dition to assist in the explorations and locations, a ser-vice
which his great experience and judgment peculiarly fitted
him for.
The Delawares and Shawnees fraternizing so well, are
often employed together on such expeditions.
The new-comers were well known to our two quondam
hunters, and observing that they all had the same Christian
name, and called each other brother, I was curious to ascer-
tain how so many brothers could have the same name. Upon
inquiry I found they were children of sisters, consequently
cousins. We now had John Connor, John Jacobs, Jo.hn
Wagon, John Jackson, John Jacobs, juu., and John Hunter,
the Shawnee.
John Connor was the leader and interpreter. He was a
fine, portly man, about forty-five years old, and very light
THE SHAWNEE. 117
complexioned, with long black hair and moustache, more like
an Arab than an Indian.
The costume of this party consisted of hunting-shirt, leg-
gins, breech cloth and moccasins ; their accoutrements simple
and entirely for service. They carried flint-locked rifles, with
a knife, powder-horn and ball-pouch, an awl, charger, and a
whetstone in a case, all slung to a broad belt, and ready to
put on at a moment's warning. In addition they carried pis-
tols, as one of them observed, " May be so now we got two
shoots, any how."
The Shawnee was a noble specimen of his race. His com-
plexion was a dark, reddish copper ; his figure short, athletic,
|pd all bone and muscle. He wore a black moustache, and
disdaining any head gear, with a bushy growth of black hair,
looked the very embodiment of wild vigor and endurance,
either for the fight or the chase.
We found him to be a splendid hunter, bold rider, and,
though only twenty-two years old, a very reliable guide.
We felt all the safer for this addition to our forces, and com-
menced our doubtful and dangerous journey under most
favorable auspices, our men being all in fine health.
11
118 NOTES TAKEN.
CHAPTEE X.
COTTONWOOD SPRING TO DIVIDING RIDGE.
Leave the road. Description of country 'from Red River. Stock raising in
Texas. Buck killed. Indian cookery. Description of Bluifs. Kickapoo
grave. Cactus seen. Deer called up by bleat. Mesquite Beans. Bridging
Ravines. Black Flies. Cross Crater. Snakes shot. Arrive at Little Witch-
ita Mesquite Grass. Indian signs. Manner of lariating. Valley of "VVitch-
ita. Fine scenery on the Plains. Antelope killed. Anxiety about Horses.
Jackass Rabbit killed. Breezes on the Plains. Exploring Party leave. Ar-
rive at branch of Big Witchita. Repairing Wagons. Intense weather.
Effect of the atmosphere. Oxen missing. Reach the Little Witchita. Ex-
ploring Party return. Insects on the Plains. Fawn chase. Camanche graves.
Reach the Divide.
JULY 16th. So far we had had the advantage of the
military road from Fort Washita to assist us with our heavy
train. We had now to leave this and striking into the vast
plains which compose unexplored Texas, to travel entirely
by compass, make our own roads, and trust to the state of
the case for water, grass, and whatever else might be neces-
sary to accomplish the objects of our expedition.
From Ked Eiver to this point, nothing can surpass the
facilities of the country for stock-raising, sufficient to mark
Texas as the great stock-yard of our country in the future.
The same advantages prevail here that exist in those
countries where stock-raising is followed as a business, and
will attain the same results.
CATTLE BREEDING. 119
Water is plenty, the whole country being intersected with
creeks and rivers, and although the season was unprecedently
dry, we met with no scarcity even on our narrow line of
march.
The grass remains green and nutritious throughout the
winter-months, and there is plenty of timber for building or
firewood for the herdsman.
There are in Texas between one and two millions of horned
cattle, and the same management prevails throughout the
State. The plan is to sell out all the beeves from four years
old and upwards. The cows are never sold or killed for
beef, but kept expressly for breeding. The increase in stock
cattle is twenty-five per cent." annually, and in some instances
more. This compounded yearly will produce in a series of
years immense results. This increase is certain, for cattle
seldom die except from old age. The territory is large
enough to cut five states as large as New York out of it,
and with such economy in management and such facilities of
range, who can realize what immense herds will eventually
roam all over these prairies, or the immense income Texas
will receive from this source alone.
After breaking up camp, we gradually ascended in a north-
west course, over a rolling country, covered with buffalo
grass and mesquite timber, stopping every few miles to
admire the fine panorama stretched out before us, vast and
picturesque as it was, and enjoying the delicious breeze,
which though the thermometer stood at one hundred in the
120 NOTES TAKEN.
shade -was exhilarating and refreshing, our party all in fine
spirits and full of enthusiasm for the new scenes we were to
pass through.
After an hour or two's march, one of our party saw a
blanket tied to a mesquite tree, and fluttering in the distance.
Such signals are always to be approached with caution on
the plains, as they are almost invariably a decoy of some
lurking savage, who thus, by exciting curiosity, lures his
victim within range of the deadly rifle or arrow.
Approaching it cautiously, our guide, John Conner, gave
us the agreeable intelligence, that John Jacobs, who had
been sent in advance to seek for water and camping ground,
had shot a fat buck and took this means of calling our atten-
tion to it ; and a noble specimen he was, very fat, with a full
head of horns just in the velvet,* so that instead of a Caman-
che, we had caught a gem for the larder. He was soon
skinned and ready for transportation to camp.
We marched on, with the rays of a glorious sunset pro-
longing the evening until a late hour shining upon us, and
* Bucks first have horns when three years old. Tlie horns are then short and
unbranching.
They shed them every year, and each succeeding head of horns has an addi-
tional branch.
Whilst the horns are growing to full size, they are covered with a soft velvety
Bkin. This is what is meant by horns in the velvet.
The horns now begin to itch and make the animal restless, who to relieve
himself rubs them in the bushes and against the trees until the velvet disap-
pears, and the solid bone is discovered underneath. At the time of rubbing off
the velvet, the bucks have a singular appearance, the whole head audneck being
covered with blood and the velvety skin hanging in shreds from the horns.
INDIAN COOKERY. 121
encamped upon so fine a stream that in anticipation of
future wants the Captain ordered our water-barrels to be
filled.
The Major, an old campaigner, whose mouth had been
watering for a taste of the juicy buck, immediately gave
orders to one of the Indian corps, and soon the smoking ribs
invited us to a feast which needed no Appician appetite to
enjoy.
The way in which Indians cook venison is peculiar. Sharp-
ening a stick at both ends, the meat is spitted upon it, the
stick stuck in the ground near a blazing fire and the meat
watched closely, turning it occasionally until the gravy
begins to run, when with the simple addition of salt a morsel
is prepared which once tasted leaves a lasting impression
upon the palate, light and easy of digestion, and carrying no
nightmare with it. We enjoyed it fully, and slept soundly
under the effects.
July 17th. "We marched at sunrise, our course still north-
west. In a short time the scene changed, and we were amidst
the first bold scenery we had yet encountered. Long ranges
of precipitous bluffs bounded the horizon, looking like so
many barriers to our future progress. These bluffs were of
igneous formation, and afforded a fine field for the geologist.
In many places large slabs of sandstone were poised upon
pencils of red clay, looking like a miniature Stone Henge. or
the ruins of the Pantheon, the whole presenting a singular
feature in the landscape.
11*
122 NOTES TAKEN.
We found some curious specimens of the cactus perfectly
round and flat, not more than three or four inches thick, but
many of them five feet in diameter.
We also passed a Kickapoo grave, which our guide pointed
out to us, and described their manner of burial. He said,
" He dig him hole deep like man, den stick him in head up,
and may be so he leave him," a singular mode of burial,
truly.
A doe and buck were called up on the open prairie by means
of the bleat, showing how effectual this little instrument is in
expert hands. One of our amateurs tried a shot at them, but
failed to hit, and they bounded off over the plain and were
soon lost to sight.
We crossed the west fork of the Trinity, and after nooning
proceeded to make a bridge of gum elastic timber over a ravine
that ran across our course. This tree is not the caoutchouc,
but takes its name from the berry, which is edible, and like
the prepared gum elastic of commerce, is springy.
The mesquite trees here began to show the beans, which
are similar though narrower to the honey locust, and being
full of saccharine matter, our Indians seemed very fond of
them, pulling and eating them by handfuls as they rode along.
The wild passion-flower also abounded here in great pro-
fusion, festooning the trees and looking very tempting, relieved
by the deep green foliage. I collected a good store of the
seeds.
After crossing the ravine, we passed through a succession
BLACK FLIES. 123
of low hills, giving us, at every few moments, beautiful
changes of scenery, and at sunset encamped upon a small
fork of the Trinity.
To-day, our oxen suffered terribly from the attacks of large
black flies, which came in myriads.
They were as large as humble bees, and very voracious ;
their probosces inflicting wounds deep enough to keep the
blood flowing after the insects fell off from repletion.
We felt very anxious about our stock, as these flies, with
scarcity of water, which we expected to encounter, would tell
most fearfully upon them, but hoped, as we rose higher, to
get rid of them.
July 18th. Our course to-day was West, towards the head
waters of the Little Witchita, passing through fine ranges of
bluffs, affording many fine views, but the country so broken
that the working party were constantly employed bridging
creeks, ravines and branches.
We passed through the crater of an old volcano, which
must have been in activity before the flood, from surrounding
indications, the ground being covered with scoriae, among
which were found fossils.
The Major shot a prairie snake, a species of adder, about
eleven feet long, and a rattlesnake, a most formidable reptile,
full seven feet long, with teeth an eighth of an inch in length,
and eleven rattles. Both these specimens were prepared for
our collection.
Happening to remark that I thought it fortunate rattle-
124 NOTES TAKEN.
snakes were so seldom met with, Conner replied, " may be so,
in de timber and valley, dere you catch him great many, out
here in de prairie, fire burn all up."
Every one that we met with was sure to be despatched,
and though the dimensions given appear fabulous, yet I can
vouch for their accuracy, for their size so astonished me, that
I was minute enough to measure each one described with a
tape line.
We nooned under a live oak, the first specimen we had
met with. All the timber thus far, from the Belknap road,
having been gum elastic, iresquite, and a few cotton wood
trees near the streams.
In the afternoon we marched only one mile, and reaching a
branch of the Little Witchita, found that so much work was
to be done, bridging the stream and digging down the banks,
that we could not expect to cross before sundown, which we
did, and encamped in an old Kickapoo camp, on a plain
covered with mesquite grass. I employed the evening in
gathering the seed, now fully ripe, with the intention of
introducing it into the Northern States. This grass, having
a long head upon it like oats, yields two crops during the
year, is very hardy and good alike either for pasture or
fodder; the cultivation of it among the farmers in Texas
who have tried it, has proved very flattering and productive.
At this camp plenty of Indian signs being visible much
additional precaution was taken, horse stealing being a uni-
versal propensity with HIP savapo. Their plan is to crawl
MANNER OF LARIATING. 125
into camp, unlariat a horse, and springing upon his back start
off at full speed, thus making a stampede among the others,
which is generally successful.
The government tried the experiment some years since
of hobbling the dragoon horses when on the plains with
iron hobbles, but had to abandon it, as the Indians invariably
killed the horse when they could not get him off.
Our horses during the trip were all secured by rope lariats
thirty feet long, fastened round their necks with an iron picket
pin, about eighteen inches long, at one end, to be driven into
the ground.
The Delawares secured their horses by fastening a short
loop of raw hide around both fore legs, below the knees, so that
the horse could only move slowly and by a succession of jumps,
something like a kangaroo. Another plan is to fasten the
long lariat around the fetlock, but the greatest precaution
fails to secure stock inevitably from the wily savage, as
sometimes a party will dress in skins, having bundles of deer's
hoofs attached, and carrying rattles made of the hoofs in
their hands, then near morning when all is quist they sweep
through camp with loud yells and rattling of the hoops, and
creating a panic amongst the animals are generally success-
ful to some extent ; often, however, sweeping off the whole
herd.
July 19th. Moving to-day in a north-west course, we had
a fine view of the valley of the Witchita.
Towering in the background were the long battlemented
126 NOTES TAKEN.
bluffs lining the opposite shore of the river below, the green
belt of timber marking its course, and in front the wide prairie
with its yellow coating of buffalo grass, studded with the pale
green mesquite, a beautiful combination for a landscape paint-
ing.
My wonder has been throughout my journey that so few
if any of our artists ever join expeditions to the plains. A
portfolio could soon be filled with novelties, compared with
which the hackneyed subjects universally to be found on sale
or exhibition sink into mediocrity. Every variety can be
found there, hill, dale, lake, valley, mountain, river and plain,
whilst color, tint, light and shade are constant in quantity and
quality. Let but the experiment be tried, and prairie scenery
will become a valued gem in the gallery.
Why is it that no one returns from the plains disappointed.
It is because their anticipations have been doubly realized.
This fact is to my mind conclusive, that visits of artists to the
plains would not only end in adorning the art, but give a better
impression of that comparatively "terra incognita." I say a
better, not a full impression, for to be fully realized it must
be seen and passed over.
"We nooned near another crater, which, like the former, was
very ancient; the ground being covered with scoriae, worn
and abraded by time and weather. We found a new species
of cactus, growing like a tree, the stalk and branches having
a woody fibre, and studded with the thorny pulp peculiar to
that plant.
JACKASS RABBIT. 127
The largest rattlesnake yet killed was added, by the Major's
unerring six shooter, to our collection eight feet long and
eleven rattles. "Wagon shot a buck antelope, the first we had
had in camp. They resemble the goat more than the deer,
and the flesh also tastes more like goat's flesh.
This specimen a full grown buck had a full head of horns,
short, of a shining black color, with one branch. His head
was an ornament to our collection.
The antelope is the fleetest animal known on the plains,
greyhounds, which Captain Marcy had with him on a former
expedition, never having been able to overtake one, though
they ran down many of the red deer and jackass rabbits. He
says that the longer the chase continued between the antelope
and the hounds, the greater the distance seemed to be between
them.
The soil was red clay and very poor, in fact all the soil
thus far from the Belkuap road, was, with little exception,
very thin.
On the afternoon's march one of the party killed a jackass
rabbit, a very large species, called jackass, from the length of
its ears. It resembles the English hare in color and general
appearance. This specimen had ears nine inches long and
standing perfectly erect upon its head ; its body from tip to
tip was seventeen inches long, and height ten inches. It
made a very savoury breakfast dish.
We reached the main Witchita for our evening camp, and
after a bath in the brackish water of the stream, made a
128 NOTES TAKEN.
sumptuous repast off the ribs of the antelope, cooked by the
inimitable John Hunter, the Shawnee, the very pink of per-
fection in the art of Indian cookery.
July 20th. Our Indian scouts having reported the country
beyond our camp, in the direction we were traveling, inac-
cessible to our heavy train, the Captain determined to rest
during the day, whilst preparations were made to explore
further with a small party mounted and accompanied by pack
mules.
We now found how judicious was the filling of our water-
barrels. The water in the river was undrinkable by man,
being salt and bitter. Our animals drank it, but with no
good results, only as a necessity. It gave them cramps,
made them restless and emaciated, and in the end would
have proved fatal.
We had plenty of water in our barrels and were quite
comfortable, though the day was oppressively hot ; thermo-
meter over one hundred in the shade ; but thanks to the
delicious breeze of the plains, we suffered but little. This is
a striking and very agreeable feature in a prairie tour ; the
morning opens close and sultry until about nine o'clock, when
a breeze springs up, which, not altering the height of the
thermometer, renders a grade of one hundred in the shade,
or higher, not only tolerable but pleasant. This continues
throughout the day, and the nights are cool enough for a
blanket.
ANXIETIES. 129
"We were now, by barometer, fifteen hundred feet above
the level of the ocean.
Our horses had lately become a source of great anxiety to
us. Accustomed to be cornfed and stabled, they had fallen
off terribly since fed entirely on grass and picketed in the
open air, but this was not all ; no horse should ever, on a
trip of the kind, be ridden out of a walk, and then only in
extreme cases ; he should be allowed the freedom of his
head, never fretted and never ridden more than fifteen miles
in a day, or twenty at the farthest.
Now no man could be more careful of his stock than Cap-
tain Marcy, but with all his watchfulness and daily caution,
it was impossible to control the wilfulness of some and the
inadvertence of others ; the results began to show themselves,
much to our dissatisfaction. The best kind of stock for such
service is mules and Indian ponies ; they are raised in the
country and acclimated, and this fact was clearly proved on
our trip, for whilst those we had were fat and in good
spirits, our northern horses were all drooping and miserably
thin. As for oxen, I would not take them at all, or if I did,
always the Texas cattle. The objections I make to them
are these : they suffer from heat, from flies, and the want of
water is to them destruction ; besides, they are so miserably
slow. I should take mules for draught or packing, and
ponies for the saddle. I know that objection is made to
horses and mules on account of the depredations of the wild
Indians, and the consequent necessity of having a large force
12
130 NOTES TAKEN.
of men to guard them at night, but it does seem to me that
the anxiety felt when horned cattle are employed, is para-
mount to the objection ; besides, a trip could be made in less
time and with far greater comfort and less loss.
This befng the birth-day of one of the young officers, a
ration of grog was issued to the men.
The addition to our collection during the day was a large
snake, perfectly black, with red lines in diamond on the
back. The Indians called it a chicken snake ; the head
showed it to be a species of black snake. It had a full-grown
rabbit in its maw when opened.
A slight sprinkle of rain the first for six weeks followed
by a brilliant sunset, closed the day.
July 21st. The Captain, Major, Doctor, and Lieut. P e,
with a party of four, including two Indians an essential in
all expeditions in this country left us at an early hour, on
their exploring tour, leaving Lieut. C n and myself alone
in camp.
We were sorry to lose the Major, even for a short season ;
since he joined our mess, we had received much valuable
information and entertainment from his vivid and thrilling
descriptions of frontier life in Texas, since its first settlement,
with which he was identified.
A plain, practical man, of sound judgment, great energy
and common sense, he spoke "to the manor born," no
hearsay, but all of which he saw, and part of which he was.
An intercourse of fourteen years with the wild Indian
MAJOR NEIGHBOURS. 131
tribes, gave him a fund of information and insight into their
habits, wants, and the best means of treating with them
invaluable to him in his official capacity, and deeply interest-
ing to the ethnologist and tourist.
The Major had been a state prisoner twenty-two months in
the Castle of Perote, during the Texas revolution, and was a
fine specimen of a frontier man in the prime of life. His co-
operation effected the best results for the expedition.
The Captain having left directions that we should move on
slowly in the direction of the Little Witchita, and there wait
his return with the exploring party, we moved the train, at
eight, A. M., ten miles, to good water, on a branch of the Big
Witchita.
Our course had been northerly, passing over a most sterile
waste, with the rocks of igneous formation, many of the bluffs
stratified with soapstone and abounding in fossil.
One of the Indians shot a spotted jackass rabbit, a very
curious specimen, spotted similarly to those kept by the fan-
ciers, evidently not of pure breed, but a cross between the
common wild rabbit and this species.*
The day was intensely hot, thermometer one hundred and
two degrees in the shade ; but arrived at camp, we found a
* I have been met with an objection in describing this specimen, as to its
origin, but I can find no evidence that species of the same genus will not pro-
pagate in contact with other species of the same genus. On the contrary, tho
horse and the ass are species of the same genus, and their offspring, the mule;
whilst in the case of fowls it is evidenced constantly, the common duck and Mus-
covy producing an excellent cross for the table; and instances are known of
propagation between the dog and the wolf.
132 NOTES TAKEN.
deep running stream, filled with catfish, gar and soft turtles.
We also found a number of large specimens of the pearl
muscle, a beautiful and singular bivalve, which, I have no
doubt, would make an excellent substitute for the costly
mother of pearl.
During the day, we were recalled to home and civilization,
by passing through at least an acre of wild rye, looking just
ready for the sickle, an incident which could not fail to make
its impression upon us in this remote spot.
With a pleasant bath, and a hearty supper of catfish and
coffee, we relished our evening in camp more than ever, our
anxiety about water, being removed for the present, which
with our thirsty family was no small relief.
July 22d. I spoke of the stream upon which we were now .
encamped, as a running stream, and to explain. What is
called river, creek, or rivulet, in this country, and at this
season, refers to the course of the stream, not one in fifty
having any water in it, except where the rain-water accu-
mulates in holes in the bed, or some tiny spring trickles out
from the bank, no wonder then at the anxiety of the traveller.
In the rainy season, the contrary, from the water marks,
must be the case, and doubtless then the country is impass-
able, as it is intersected by dry beds of streams in every
direction.
We had enough, and to spare, at this camp, and so halted
for the day, until our wagons could be re-tired and prepared
for future work. The effect of the atmosphere upon wood of
THE ATMOSPHERE. 133
all descriptions, even the best seasoned, was very surprising,
causing it to shrink and dry up until nails drew out and bands
loosened, requiring constant watching.
The only way, in default of a travelling forge to cut and weld
the tires, was to take them off and nail round the wooden
rims of the wheels thin laths of pecan, which is best for the
purpose, and then heating the tires, draw them on again.
As this had to be done to almost every wheel on our wagons,
we were fortunate in our camp, as all hands worked cheerfully
now that water was plenty.
The atmosphere had the same drying effect upon the skin,
and one, who perspired freely, found his face on cooling in
the wind covered with a fine powder.
There was no dew, and so bland were the nights, that I
preferred sleeping in the open air, which I observed the men
did, only using the tents as a protection against the heat of
the sun, which on this date was awful, thermometer at ten A. M.
one hundred and two degrees in the shade ; we were of course
better off lying still, under such circumstances, so we amused
ourselves with reading, writing and dozing until the moonlight
hours for sleep.
Some of the soldiers amused themselves shooting and fish-
ing, but with indifferent success. One said the sun was so
hot that the fish would not bite, another that the turkeys
were too wild to get a shot at them, all having every reason
but the right one. viz., their inexperience and want of skill.
John Jacobs, Jr., Indian-like, saddled his horse and wont
12*
134 NOTES TAKEN.
off by himself. Not long after, to the surprise and mortifica-
tion of the amateurs, he returned with a deer across his horse,
two turkeys at his saddle-bow, a string of fish in his hand, and
two soft turtles. " Ah," said one worthy, " he's up to it, he
knows the places ;" perhaps he had never been nearer than
five hundred miles to this place in his life, but habit was his
guide and secret of success.
July 23d. Early dawn found us all ready to start, but after
striking tents and loading wagons, a number of our spare
oxen were found to be missing, and as we felt that no doubt
we should want them all, in the future, orders were given to
unpack and spend the day, which was done with no reluctance,
the weather promising to be so intensely hot, and as it proved,
thermometer as yesterday at ten A. M., one hundred and two
degrees in the shade. Two of the Indians were sent off in
search of the oxen. Nothing of interest occurred except
that Jacobs discovered a large flock of turkeys on the hill
side, and singling out a prime gobbler he pursued it untiringly
until he ran it down into camp and there shot it with his
pistol, a truly Indian mode of amusement on a hot day.
With the usual routine of camp the day passed quietly,
sunset was very gorgeous, and many meteors were seen in
the evening, principally from the north-west. Lieutenant
C n and myself made ourselves as happy as circumstances
would admit, enduring the heat, and sure of a pleasant
night.
July 24th. Our indefatigable aborigines having brought in
SOAP PLANT. 135
the stray oxen, an early hour found us steering North, over a
much better country, and at eleven A. M., we encamped upon
a tributary to the Little Witchita, where we found good water
and plenty of grass.
As the exploring party had fixed no day for their return
to camp, we expected to be detained here some time, but in
about an hour after our arrival they came into camp, all
very much overcome with heat, thirst and the bad water of the
Big Witchita, which they explored some miles towards its
mouth, finding a very barren and uninteresting country, with
neither grass nor water. They made themselves doubly wel-
come to us, as they brought in a supply of honey, which they
obtained by cutting down a bee tree. They also brought
some grey grouse, and the Doctor had found a new and beau-
tiful species of lily, of a brilliant purple, the petal black and
cone-shaped. As the Major had never met with it before, we
called it the Camancke Lily.
Specimens of the soap plant were also found and the seed
obtained. This plant grows like the palm, and the Mexicans
use the roots for manufacturing a very fine soap. We had
a fair opportunity of testing the worth of this soap, as the
Major had brought a supply with him from home when he
joined our camp. It has a very soothing effect upon the
skin when suffering from the attacks of insects, or irritation
from sunburn, &c. For ordinary purposes it is as good as
the best.
They were all much dissatisfied and prophesied great
136 NOTES TAKEN.
suffering in store for us from the want of water, not a very
pleasant reflection for us under such an intense sun ther-
mometer one hundred and four degrees in the shade. The
night passed restlessly on account of the attacks of those
humbugs the mosquitoes.
Gnats, flies, mosquitoes, &c., are all very troublesome on
the plains, but all these together cannot compare to the
attacks of the most diminutive of the whole insect family, tlie
red bug. This little atom for it is so small that unless upon
a shining white surface one cannot see it is of a brilliant
scarlet, and buries itself in the skin in such numbers that the
whole surface becomes the color of the insect, causing irrita-
tion to such a degree that the contact of clothing is almost
unsupportable.
The only relief is to bathe in a strong solution of salt and
water, which destroys the insect and allays inflammation,
although the remedy is for a time almost as bad as the
disease.
July 25th. The morning opened sultry, and sunrise found
us on a course West of North, and entering a most desolate
region. We were all drooping, when about nine A. M.,
Jacobs, who was some distance ahead, suddenly turned in his
saddles and discharging his rifle at a beautiful fawn, gave a
whoop and started in pursuit.
The little creature, frightened, came bounding directly
along our line, running the gauntlet of our fire, and half of
those mounted started after it, so sympathetic is an incident
CAMANCHE GRAVE. 137
of this kind, but a jaded horse and a hot day, are poor
assistants in a chase, so it ended as it began, in smoke.
A rabbit chase more successful shortly afterwards, gave
a little more spirit to our party, but our apprehensions about
water, soon absorbed every other thought. Oxen cannot get
along without it, and it took no small supply for our stock.
We toiled on until noon, under that boiling sun, with the
thermometer one hundred and ten degrees in the shade the
climax of heat during our trip and arriving at the foot of a
steep bluff, found some rainwater in a hole filled with snakes
and green scum, but concluded best to encamp and await the
return of Jacobs, who was dispatched ahead to seek for water.
Ascending the bluffs, to get a better view of water
courses, &c., we found two Camanche graves. They always
bury on the highest peak in their vicinity at the time of
the death. The grave is simply a hole scratched in the
ground, large enough for the body, and stones piled on
top, whether to mark it or as a protection against wolves
I know not. I was curious to open one of these' graves,
and had commenced operations upon it, when Conner came
up and with mingled awe and fear in his countenance,
remarked " May be so, dis people dey not like dat," so I
desisted. I afterwards ascertained, that they bury a corpse
in a sitting posture, with clothing, &c., just as it was at the
time of death.
From the top of the bluff Conner said he could see the
course of the Brazos about forty miles off, and gave us some
138 NOTES TAKEN.
encouragement, (as many green spots and lines could be seen,
marking holes or courses,) that relief was at hand in the
shape of water, so that our camp wore a more cheering
aspect, though I observed the men made such frequent visits
to the water-barrels that a guard had to be placed over
them, their minds dwelling so constantly upon thirst as no
doubt to increase it, which is invariably the case, not only
with this but everything else upon which the mind dwells too
long.
Jacobs came in and reported water ten miles off', so that
we spent a more comfortable night, for besides, strange to
say, the thermometer fell fifteen degrees before sundown, and
the sky was. full of meteors during the evening, principally
from the East. t r,* (
July 26th. Jacobs was wrong in his estimate of the dis-
tance to water; a not unusual thing, as I have before
observed, with Indians. Whether this arises from their
habit of going to any designated place in the shortest time
and by the shortest road or not I know not, but they are
seldom accurate in distances ; as for places, they never fail
if they have once been there.
We found some tolerable water about four miles from
camp, and after watering our stock and taking a supply in
our barrels, we continued our march and soon reached the
Divide, between the Big Witchita and the Brazos.
This is a high narrow ridge of land, very barren and entirely
without water. Water is found on either side, but in spite of
INTENSE HEAT. 139
the most earnest search none could be found until late in the
afternoon, when the Major, always active and on the alert,
who had been scouring the country around, found tolerable
water both in quantity and quality in a ravine at the foot of
a rough and sterile declivity, more than half a mile from any
good camping ground.
All this time we had been toiling along the top of the
ridge, but now heat and thirst had done its work with our
oxen ; some laid down in the yoke, some were turned out, and
all were panting and lolling their tongues out a sure sign of
exhaustion.
Orders were given to halt and encamp, which we did on
the top of the ridge, where there was plenty of buffalo grass,
and soon our thirsty animals were refreshed, as far as the
limited supply of water would allow, and we making ourselves
as comfortable as canvass coverings, with the thermometer at
one hundred and six degrees in the shade could make us
the changes in the temperature from heat to cold, and then
to heat again, in the last thirty-six hours, being very sur-
prising and trying.
Our course had been west of north, and the Brazos could
be seen in the distance about twelve miles from camp.*
* It may surprise the reader, that although we had been for some days so near
the Little Witchita, the Big Witchita, and the Brazos, three large streams, we
should puffer so much for water. The fact is. as the sequel will prove, that
these streams take their rise in a gypsum formation, and are so impregnated
with this mineral as to be undrinkable. Branches of them contain good water
but the main streams are salt and bitter.
140 NOTES TAKEN.
We disturbed a herd of antelopes near the water-pool,
and several hungry wolves were prowling around in their
tracks.
The Captain caught a most curious spider, with the body
as large as a pigeon's egg, barred with alternate brown
and canary coloured stripes, head brown and armed with a
horn, and legs long and black, a new species, and quite an
addition to our collection.
This region abounds in iron and copper, and indications are
very strong of coal.
IRON AND COPPER. 141
CHAPTER XI.
DIVIDING RIDGE TO THE HEAD OF THE BRAZOS.
Water scarce. Iron and Copper found. Black Lizard. Scorpion caught. Ca-
manche signal. Preparations for exploring party with pack mules, Ac.
Party leave. Antelopes seen. Barren country. Bad water. Filling water-
sacks. Witchita trail. Conner's sagacity. Chapparal cock. Reach Big Wit-
chita. Quick sands. Accidents frequent. Dexterity of Indians in skinning
deer. Bluffs met with. Bivouac on bluff. Fire in bivouac. Twilight des-
cribed. Rattlesnake killed. Gypsum found. Stream crooked. Bitter water'
Sickness in the party. Large grasshopper found. Insects scarce. Head of
Big Witchita. Travelling South. Limestone water found. Camanche grave.
Singular ridge. Man lost. Bivouac on Brazos. Alarm in bivouac. Prairie
Dog town. Catfish Creek. Camanche trail. Rough 'country. Singular
knobs. Hard times. Man very ill. Gypsum mountain. Cross fork of Bra-
zos. Better country. Prairie Dogs. Table Mountain. Arrive on Llano Esta-
cado. Head of the Brazos.
JULY 27th. The Captain being fearful of moving any
farther, in uncertainty about water, despatched Jacobs again
in search, and we remained quietly in camp all day.
The Major and the Doctor explored the country in search
of iron and copper, and came back loaded with specimens,
some very choice.
Whilst writing in my tent, I felt a strange sensation in my
leg and foot, and found that a large black lizard had paid me
a visit. Whether he was anxious to sacrifice his life in the
cause of science or not, I know not, but he paid for his
temerity by a bath in alcohol.
13
142 NOTES TAKEN.
The first specimen of the scorpion we have yet met with,
was to-day added to our collection, and another fine specimen
of the jackass rabbit.
During the day a large column of smoke was seen in the
direction of the Brazos, and Conner pronounced it to be made
by the Camanches, as a signal, Major Neighbours having
sent out runners, before he left home, to tell them that we
would be with them about this time, and we had been daily
expecting to meet one of the bands.
Jacobs returned and reported having scoured the country
for forty miles round and found it dry, barren and broken, but
at six miles distance, in a southerly direction, he found good
camping ground and tolerable water.
Upon consultation, the Captain determined to move the
train to this spot, and leaving it there, to complete the ex-
ploration of the head waters of the Big Witchita and Brazos,
with pack mules and a small mounted escort.
Eeport was brought in that sixteen of the oxen were miss-
ing, whether having wandered off in search of water and
grass, or stolen by the Indians of course could not be told,
Jackson and Wagon were despatched in search of them.
July 28th. Early this morning Conner replied to the Ca-
manche signal, by building a fire upon the top of the highest
hill he could find in our vicinity, which was about two miles
from camp, when a column of smoke rose high enough to be
seen at a distance of forty miles.
The rest of the day was spent in preparations for the ex-
EXPLORING PARTY. 143
ploring party, and in the evening the Indians brought in the
stray oxen.
Owing to the bad condition of our horses, we were unable
to mount but four men, which with the Captain, Major,
Doctor, myself and five Indians, made but a party of thirteen,
a small number truly, to attempt the thorough exploration of
a country entirely unknown to white men, except as the
retiring spot of numerous predatory bands of Indians, after
their constant forays upon the frontier settlements; but we
had to make the best of what we had, and trust to chance for
success.
July 29th. Leaving the train in charge of the two sub-
alterns, our party of thirteen, with nine pack mules and led
horses started at day break this morning.
Our course was North-west, and ascending gradually, we
came upon a very extensive plain, covered with buffalo grass
and mesquite timber. At a short distance south was the dry
bed of a lake, covered with luxuriant green grass, and making
quite an oasis in the comparative desert around us. Upon
this fed the largest herd of antelope we had yet met with. I
counted more than thirty in one spot, and deer were plenty.
We rode six miles,* when suddenly and abruptly the scene
changed, and a most singular country was brought to view.
Below, stretching as far as the eye could reach, was a barren
* We counted distances on our march by the time it took us, and the speed
of our horses. With the train we had an odometer, a very curious instrument,
fastened in a leather case to the wheels of the ambulance, by which every
revolution was counted, and thus the road accurately measured.
144 NOTES TAKEN.
and desolate waste, broken and torn into ravines, mounds,
gullies and defiles, the soil a bright red clay, and not a tree or
a shrub, except the white dwarf cedar, to be seen. Crossing
this was like descending the Alps ; we had to lead or drive
our horses, go single file, and hang on in many places to the
cedars that grew in our path.
At the bottom, we found the bed of a large stream, a
tributary to the Big Witchita, quite dry, with only a pool of
water here and there, standing under the banks, salt and
bitter.
This being a foretaste of what we were to expect, the ever
vigilant Captain began to think of the future, and cast about
for some place to fill our gum-elastic water-bags.
After much search, he found a tiny thread of water
trickling down the hill side, and despatched one of the men
to dig out a basin to catch it in.
In this way, in an hour's time, we filled our water bags,
and drank freely ourselves, when continuing our march over
the same barren tract, we nooned near the dry bed of a large
creek, where in a hole was brackish water sufficient for our
thirsty animals.
In passing down the bed of this stream, in the afternoon,
we came upon an Indian trail, when Conner displayed the
extraordinary powers he possessed of designating by the mere
tracks in the sand the character of the trail.
Biding along with his eyes bent upon the sand, he soon
stopped, and said " Witchita trail, may be so, eight animal,
CHAPPARAL COCK. 145
two horse, one pony, three mule, horse shod all round, pony
too ; shoes on pony old ; one mule shod all round, others shod
before ; trail five days old."
How he could be so accurate, he knows best, with nothing
but some tracks in the sand, partly blown over by the wind,
to guide him ; but suffice it to say he was correct, which we
ascertained two months afterwards; the horses and mules
having been stolen from the neighbourhood of Fort Belknap,
and a detachment of dragoons having been sent out after
the marauders. Such is the force of habit, and most invalua-
ble is this power in a country where stock is^liable at any
hour to be stolen.
The first specimen of the chapparal cock was here seen.
It is a species of cuckoo, about as large as a grouse ; runs
very fast, and will not fly unless closely pursued. It is the
only bird that will attack the rattlesnake, which it does with
great fury, seizing it by the neck and beating it to death with
its short strong wings.
We gave chase to this specimen, a full grown male, but he
escaped us by taking to the thick tangled bushes on the
bank. Shortly after we came to the Big Witchita.
The bed of the stream was very wide, but there was but
little running water in it, and that salt and bitter, disappearing
frequently entirely in the sand, the shores frosted with de-
posits of salt and gypsum. We crossed and recrossed it
several times during the afternoon, as it was very crooked and
marching in a direct line, we had it in sight for a long
13*
146 NOTES TAKEN.
f
distance, and it ran at right angles to our course every mile
or two. The bed of the stream near shore was all quick-
sands, and every time we crossed more or less accident
occurred, happily none serious.
My horse sank to the haunches in one instance, and in his
plunges threw me off, but as the landing was soft, a plentiful
bedaubing of red clay and mud was all the injury I received.
Our horses and mules suffered very much from this service.
Every plunge was made with a groan, and the strain upon
legs and loins was very perceptible afterwards.
For many miles along the north shore, extended a meadow
a mile wide, which in the rainy season must be entirely sub-
merged, from the water marks, making a broad lake, where
now no water could be seen, the grass very thin and coarse,
like that in salt marshes. In crossing this, the Captain shot
a doe, and we had a specimen of the dexterity and rapidity
with which an Indian can skin a deer and prepare it for
transportation. I timed Jacobs during the operation, and
he was just fifteen minutes from the time the deer was shot
until he had it prepared and packed on a mule.
The south shore now began to be bounded by a range of high
bluffs, and hoping to find water there, we crossed at the first
opening and bivouaced on top of a bluff, one hundred feet
above the stream, giving us a level plateau, with grass for
our animals and a good place to keep look-out for Indians.
In a ravine, a quarter of a mile off, Conner dug into the
bank and found water, slightly impregnated with salt and
FIRST GYPStM, 147
gypsum, but cold, so spreading our blankets and picketing
our animals, we prepared for the night on this eyrie.
The clear salt waters inviting us, we all descended for a
bath, when just as we were " sans culotte," a succession of
yells and shouts from the Indians, and the crackling and
smoke from the dry grass, proclaimed a fire on top. Hastily
ascending, we found our bivouac in flames, but baggage safe,
except that of the Indians, who lost considerable.
We succeeded in beating out the fire, with blankets and
horse cloths, and moving a little higher up, spent the most
charming night of our trip, cool and free from insects, with
a sky above as clear as sky could be, and countless meteors,
coursing their way over the Heavens, principally from the
north-east.
The twilight in this country is remarkable, prolonging the
evening until a very late hour, and, when the sky is perfectly
clear, lingering on the verge of day-break. On this night it
was singularly so, and at no time between sunset and dawn,
was it dark enough to obscure an object at one hundred paces
distant. We made, this day, a march of forty miles.
July 30th. Daylight found us all ready for moving, and
passing through a meadow, below the bluff, where Jacob
shot a monster rattle-snake, with nine rattles, we met with, in
about an hour, the first gypsum, in bulk, we had yet seen.
The whole earth was covered with conical and rhomboidal
chrystals of the mineral, whilst around and among it, lay
jasper, agate and chalcedory, with some cornelian. Specimen
148 NOTES TAKEN.
hunting employed us for a short time, and many choice ones
were found.
The stream which we kept in sight of as much as pos-
sible was still very crooked, and crossing and recrossing it
very often during our march we found some land good enough
to grow trees of a considerable size, but the most part was
a barren waste covered with gypsum, with here and there the
low stunted white cedar and patches of very thin coarse grass.
In the fertile spots grew the China tree, the live oak and the
mesquite, but all bearing marks of very insufficient nourish-
ment from the soil. The same danger and difficulty from
quicksands attended every crossing of the stream, and the
bed where dry was invariably covered with a thick powder
of gypsum mingled with salt.
Heat and exhaustion thermometer one hundred and six
degrees compelled us to stop at noon and remain until next
day.
We bivouaced upon a branch of the river, where was a
spring icy cold, but intensely bitter. Not being able to find
any other, we made a virtue of necessity and drank as little
as possible, except in coffee, when the taste is somewhat dis-
guised.* The Doctor made some lemonade with citric acid
and oil of lemon, which refreshed us somewhat, but the
medicine was too powerful to be mastered by ordinary means.
* It is well to remark, that our water-bags wore filled and carried with us in
case we should be unable to find any water at all, either sweet or bitter
which we had every reason to expect, and the supply of course remained
untouched, fearful that such a contingency would arise.
BEAR HUNTING. 149
A doe and fawn, killed by the incomparable Wagon,
afforded us a savory meal, cooked Indian fashion, and our
minds were diverted for a time by some very large bear signs
in the sand, which we followed some distance, but unsuccess-
fully. Some anecdotes related by the Indians of the instinct
and sagacity of bears, were very interesting. They say the
animal invariably goes some distance with the wind, away
from his first track, before making his bed to lie down
should an enemy now approach he is obliged to come with
the wind, when the bear's acute sense of smell warns him in
time to make his escape. When pursued he will sometimes
take refuge in a cave, and should the hunter endeavor by
building a fire at the mouth to smoke him out, he not unfre-
quently will advance, beat out the fire with his fore feet and
then retreat into the cave.
Another anecdote, however, would seem to prove the bear
correspondingly stupid. When the hunter cannot succeed
in smoking him out, he sometimes descends into the cave
with his rifle and a lighted torch. W^hen the bear sees the
light approaching he will sit upright upon his haunches, cover
his face with his paws, and remain so until shot.
The black bear is harmless, unless wounded or accompanied
by its young, when it is very dangerous to attack it.
I found a large species of wild gourd trailing on the ground,
and very full of the vegetable, and caught a grasshopper as
large as a good sized sparrow.
We noticed that insect life was very sparse in this region,
150 NOTES TAKEN.
a great satisfaction to us, heat and bitter water being evils
enough at one time.
Diarrhoea had now set in with most of the party, and all
began to wear an anxious look.
Our course to-day was west of north, and distance thirty-
five miles.
July 31st. At six A. M., we left our bivouac, and taking
a trail through the cedar brakes, and travelling up the river
ten miles, we came to where it divided into three prongs.
Following the first, led us up a steep bluff to an elevated
prairie, when a beautiful view was presented. In our rear
the valley of the Big Witchita could be traced for many
miles, in front, and to our right, the head waters, all
emanating from the same barren and desolate hills of gypsum ;
In fact, the whole country here is one mass of gypsum, and
is entirely uninhabitable.
We had seen but few Indian signs, nor do I believe they
ever do more than pass through this region, as grass, water
and game are all scarce.
"With no regret, we bid adieu to the scene behind us,
heartily wishing it might never be our lot to visit it again,
and turning south after a ride of six miles, came to a tiny
spring, trickling from an overhanging shelf of lime-stone.
Making a basin to receive the water, canteens and tin
cups were soon busy, and from the number of cupsfull that
found their way down our throats, in rapid succession, our
thirst and joy at finding this God-send was very clearly
AN OASIS. 151
evidenced. We also renewed the water in our
which we took care to do at every opportunity.
Near this spring, and on the highest point of the hill, was
a Camanche grave, marked by a pile of stones and some
remnants of scanty clothing. Conner pronounced it to be
the grave of a woman, recognizing it as such by the few
shreds of cloth, fluttering on a mesquite tree near the grave.
We now passed rapidly on in a southern course, and
entered an extensive plain covered with thin coarse grass
and stunted mesquite timber.
We moved parallel to a chain of mountains, making quite
a variety to the dull monotony of the barren prairie, and
striking the gypsum formation again halted towards sunset
upon a branch of the Brazos, where we had bitter water, but
plenty of grass and wild rye for our animals.*
Previous to reaching our bivouac, we crossed a narrow
ridge, upon the top of which was the dry bed of a stream,
which overflowing in time of high water, caused a most
luxuriant growth of grass on the flats at either side. It
reminded* me of the course of the Mississippi.
Near this, one of the men got astray (in the tall coarse
sedge, reaching higher than a man's head on horseback, and
extending for half a mile on either side of the ridge) but with
a succession of yells and shouts aroused the ever ready
* We occasionally passed oases of this kind in our trip, but so small was their
extent, in proportion to the immense territory traversed, that they were more
tantalizing than useful.
152 NOTES TAKEN.
s
Wagon, who was scouting in the vicinity, and soon put him
right.
Our bivouac was in a grove, the ground of an old Ca-
manche camp* at the base of a succession of low hills of red
clay, posted and sparkling with crystals of gypsum.
The timber was cotton wood and hackberry ; the bed of
the stream one quicksand, so that the animals were watered
with difficulty.
An incident occurred here which shows how good a sentinel
a horse or a mule is. They were all tied close to camp and
we lounging on our blankets, when just at dusk the Major
observed them start suddenly, with ears pricked, and one of
them gave a loud snort. " Look out, something there !" was
his sharp, quick exclamation. Instantly, every man was
upon his feet, revolver and rifle in hand, when it proved to be
one of the men who had gone over to put out the cook's fire
on the gypsum hills, where it had been built for safety.
This incident shows also how prairie life sharpens the facul-
ties of both men and animals. Distance to-day, thirty miles.
August 1st. Our course to day was still south, towards
some high knobs seen in the distance.
We left the gypsum formation and crossed a pretty
extensive plain, but soon we struck it again and crossed a
* It was surprising how readily and with what accuracy in detail our
Delawares would designate the tribe, the number and the disposition of the
Indians, who had occupied the deserted camps wo met with during our whole
trip, and as we met with some of the same parties afterwards, their sagacity
in this respect was fully established.
CATFISH CEEEK. 153
branch of the Brazos, the bed damp and oozy, with the water
welling up through the sand at every step of our animals.
"We moved down the bed of the stream some distance, then
took the shore, and came upon a very broken country, beyond
which was a short prairie where was a prairie-dog village.
These little creatures, so curious a feature in a prairie tour,
gave us great amusement as we passed, sitting upon the
mounds by their holes, frisking around or scuttling along
from one hole to the other, filling the air with their low
whining bark, and upon our approach throwing a summer-
sault into their holes.
A short distance brought us to a branch of the Brazos,
very deep, as clear as crystal, and filled with catfish, gars
and buffalo fish, where we nooned, dining upon some of the
fish cooked by the Major. "Wagon caught a catfish four feet
seven inches long, and nine inches across the head.
The blue and white cranes were seen here, also the yellow-
legged snipe, and a species of large grasshopper of a shining
black color, some of the specimens six inches long.
The grass was very rank and tall, and a high wind arising
set it on fire from our kitchen, so that we had to make a hasty
retreat up the steep bank on the opposite side of the creek,
which we have called CaffisJi Creek. It was timbered with
hackberry and cottonwood.
The bitter water here began to show its effects upon our
horses. All were restless, and mine was affected with cramps,
causing him to lie down and roll upon the ground in great
14
154 NOTES TAKEN.
agony. I was obliged to change him for one of the led horses
an impatient, nervous creature, who in crossing gave me fall
the second in the quicksands along shore.
On the top of the bank we struck a Camanche trail, very
broad, and made by the lodge poles, which they transport
from place to place in 'their wanderings by fastening them on
each side of their pack horses, leaving the long ends trailing
upon the ground, giving the trail very much the appearance
of a carriage road, in so much so that one of our party
remarked without thinking that these lords of the plains
were obliged to eschew carriages of any kind that "we must
soon overtake them, for here was the track of the chiefs'
travelling carriage," an idea that caused much merriment.
The country was now broken and rugged in the extreme
for some miles, and until we came to the plain, upon the
western border of which stood the singular knobs we had
seen in the distance. One of these knobs at the base of
which we passed particularly attracted our attention. It
rose several hundred feet above the surface in alternate
terraces of gray limestone, the whole forming a bell-shaped
mound, perfect in outline, and a landmark to the traveller for
a long distance.
Passing this range of knobs, we entered the most barren,
rugged and broken country we had yet met with, covered
with stunted mesquite trees and dwarf cedar, the ground
one mass of broken rocks.
Sunset found us toiling along, weary and half famished
GYPSUM WATER. 155
for water. At length, we descended a ravine, and bivouaced
" per force" near two pools of the most bitter water we had
had to put up with. We now realized, how comparatively use-
less our gum-elastic water sacks were. The water not only
became nauseous from the gum, but exposure to the sun
rendered it equally unpalatable to the gypsum water.
We also had gum-elastic sacks for our rations of pork, and
discovered that heat and grease together so softened this
material, as to render it entirely unfit for service in that
climate. The whole coating of gum peels off under such
circumstances, and leaves the sack, not equal to one made of
common canvass.
One or two gutta percha bags, unfortunately of small ca-
pacity, happening to have been brought along, their contents
proved good, so that we fared better than could have been
expected, but our miserable bivouac, for that night, will long
be impressed upon our memories.
One of the soldiers, here became very violently ill with cramps
and diarrhosa, and we were all suffering terribly and much ex-
hausted by the constant doses of this most execrable stuff, im-
pregnated, as it is, with sulphate of lime, sulphate of magnesia,
sulphate of soda, chloride of sodium and hydrosulphuric acid,*
* Professor W. S Clarke, of Amherst College, made an analysis of this water,
and gives the following as the result.
Water in fluid, ounces 4.000
Weight of Sulphate of Lime . . . .219
" " " Magnesia, . . .088
" " Soda, . . . .073
" Chloride of Sodium, . . . .023
" Hydrosulphuric acid, k . .Oil
156 NOTES TAKEN.
a most nauseous dose under any circumstances, but with
the thermometer at one hundred and four degrees in the
shade, and long rides in the hot sun, creating most in-
satiable thirst, our sufferings may be imagined but can-
not be described.
I had my first experience here in mounting guard, which
became necessary in the disabled state of our escort, both
Indians and white men. We all had to take turns, and a
wretched night passed in restlessness and anxiety. We made
this day forty miles.
As may be supposed, we welcomed with joy the first
streaks of day, and saddling up, we turned our back upon our
wretched bivouac with alacrity, but apprehensive for the future.
Ascending the steep banks of the ravine, we came upon a
plain bounded upon the west by a most picturesque range of
bluffs, then ascending and descending through hills, gullies,
and ravines, we came, about eight, A. M., to the base of a
mountain, which forming one of the range of bluffs men-
tioned, had attracted our attention for some time, glistening
as it did in the sunlight. We ascended it and found its alti-
tude, by barometer, seven hundred feet above the plain, and
that it was composed of a solid mass of gypsum, the top level
and covered with a dazzling white pavement of the mineral,
as perfectly laid as though by the hand of man.
From our elevated position a magnificent panorama was
spread out before us. In our rear, the rough and inhospitable
HEAD OF THE BRAZOS. 157
country we had just left, with the fire from our lately burnt
camp smoking in the distance, a fork of the Brazos, winding
its tortuous and uninviting course at our feet, an extensive
mesquite plain, with the bluffs which bounded the opposite
shores of the Main Brazos, in the far back ground, whilst to
our right could be seen the two conical peaks, which marked
the source of the Brazos, towering towards heaven, and look-
ing like two dim clouds in the distant horizon.
The view was truly attractive, but our sufferings for water
overpowered all other feelings, and descending we pushed
rapidly on, crossed the fork of the Brazos at our feet, and
entered upon a plain covered with a singular growth of dwarf
oaks bearing quite a large acorn, the oak a perfect tree in
itself, but the highest not more than two feet high.
The soil now was gravelly, giving us hopes of soon finding
water, but after a very long ride and much distress, we found
nothing but a stagnant pool filled with vegetable matter and
sickening to the taste. By boiling it in our camp-kettles and
skimming off the green slimy scum, we managed to make
coffee, and one of the Indians having shot a deer, we passed
a comparatively comfortable night upon the open prairie.
We were surprised to find quantities of fish in this stagnant
pool. Specimens of copper were also found, and fossil shells.
We killed two rattlesnakes in our bivouac, and after filling
our water-sacks with the boiled water, retired to our blankets,
having in spiff of our privations passed a vpry i
14*
158 NOTES TAKEN.
day.* Our course had been south, and distance forty-five
miles.
August 3d. We made an early start, still travelling 1 south
across the plain, which became more fertile at every step,
covered with a rich growth of buffalo grass and very large
mesquite trees a great change from the land of bitter water.
Pretty soon we entered an extensive prairie dog town,
where (the Doctor being anxious to procure one as a
specimen) Conner and the other Indians made many shots,
some of them effective, but did not succeed in securing a
dog, as they tumbled into their holes and were lost. Two
skeletons of heads were all that was obtained.
Enormous rattlesnakes were seen here, one of which the
Major wounded, but it glided into a hole and could not be
withdrawn. These reptiles are always found in numbers
about these towns, where they subsist upon the puppies, as
has been proven by opening a snake killed, and not as some
suppose, living on friendly terms with the inhabitants.
A small species of owl, no doubt attracted by the same
cause, was seen flying around, and rabbits running in and out
of the holes, whether occuping those deserted by the dogs,
or as one of the family, could not be ascertained.
The prairie dog is a species of marmot, with a head similar
* A good plan, when in a country like this, and having to drink such
stagnant, warm and unpalatable water, is to cover a canteen or gourd with a
piece of woolen cloth, or blanket, and filling the vessel, wet the outside and
hang it on a tree or bush over night; by evaporation a cool drink is thus
afforded at least once in twenty-four hours.
PRAIRIE DOGS. 159
to a bull-dog puppy, the incisors like those of a squirrel, body
about the size of a common rabbit, and tail like that of the
chip squirrel.
The immense numbers of these animals in one of their
towns, may be estimated from the fact, that we passed ten
miles through this town, and allowing it to extend the same
distance in other directions, we have an area of one hundred
square miles, when by estimating the burrows at seven feet
apart, the usual distance, and six dogs to a hole, we have a
population not to be exceeded by any city in the world.
They are found all over the far western prairies, from Mexico
to the northern limits of the states, and always select the sites
for their towns upon the most elevated lands, where there is
no water, sometimes none for many miles, but where grows
a species of short, wiry grass, upon which they feed.
This has induced many to believe that they do not require
water, and as no rains or dews fall during the summer
months upon these elevated plains, and the dogs never
wander far from home, the conclusion is warranted that they
require no water beyond what the grass affords. That they
hybernate is evidenced from the fact that they lay up no
store for the winter, and this grass dries up in the autumn.
The Indians say that they may be seen, towards the last of
October, busy with weeds and grass, stopping up every
passage to their burrows, and if they re-open them again
before spring, mild and pleasant weather is sure to follow.
160 NOTES TAKEN.
Usually, however, they never appear until settled weather in
the spring, when they are about, as lively as ever.
We saw wolves frequently to-day, and a good many deer,
which gave us cheering prospects for better times, nor were
we disappointed, for shortly afterwards we struck the lime-
stone and found a beautiful and abundant spring, bubbling
up at the foot of an overhanging cliff, composed of limestone,
a layer of gypsum over, conglomerate on top of that, and
sandstone over all. Agate, chalcedony, jasper and cornelian
abounded here in great quantity.
We nooned here, drinking copious draughts of this deli-
cious water, which only he who has been so long deprived of
it as we had been can fully appreciate.
Having refilled our water-sacks, we mounted again and
crossed the south fork of the Brazos, finding the water
undrinkable and the same appearance in the bed of the
stream, the water disappearing entirely in the sand, and the
shores frosted with salt and gypsum, the salt thick enough to
be gathered in handsful.
We now found a very broken country, and after a short
ride crossed another fork of the Brazos, which from a moun-
tain which we ascended a short distance from the opposite
shore, we called Table Mountain Fork.
This mountain was composed of calcareous sand-stone,
rose precipitously from the plain and was quite level on top.
Descending this, we crossed a succession of rocky bluffs, and
finally ascending over a steep and dangerous road, came to a
LLANO ESCTACADO. 161
broad level plain, a spur of the Llano Esctacado, covered with
buffalo grass and mesquite trees, and extending as far as the
eye could reach in a perfect level towards the dim, cloud-
like mountains at the head of the Brazos.* We found some
deer here, and one of the Indians shot a fat doe.
* The Llano Esctacado, or staked plain, is the most elevated table-land on our
continent, and is supposed to be the original level of the prairies East. The
plain proper extends from the thirty-second to the thirty-sixth parallel of
latitude, and is, in places, two hundred miles wide, without a tree or running
stream throughout its entire surface.
Formerly a road was staked off across it by the old Mexicans for the use of
traders, hence its name.
102 NOTES TAKEN.
CHAPTEK XII.
HEAD OF THE BRAZOS TO FLAT ROCK CREEK.
Halt on the Llano Esctacado. Grand View. Descend from the plain. Long
Ride. Miserable Bivouac. Curious sight. Panther Chase. Terrible Storm.
Severe sufferings. Indian Shealing. Pleasant dreams. Water plenty.
Singular bush. Chain of lakes. Beautiful spring. Pleasant Bivouac.
Mesquite Gum. Kickapoos. Fish shot. Manner of spearing fish. Reached
our Camp. Move Camp. Flat Rock Creek.
THE Captain now stopped, to consult about going any
farther. We had achieved the main point in our trip and
were all heartily tired and disgusted with so inhospitable
a country, besides that, the sick man could barely support
himself upon his horse, and we all felt that to go any farther,
in uncertainty about water, was to peril the lives of the whole
party. We decided to return, and turning our horses heads
east, we commenced our journey back to camp over the plain
we had just reached.
A ride of six miles, brought us to a precipice bounding
this plain on the east, and with a sheer descent to the plain
below of six hundred feet. The view was the most extensive
and glowing in the sunset, the most striking that we had
enjoyed during our whole trip, combining the grandeur of
immense space the plain extending to the horizon on every
side from our point of view with the beauty of the contrast
LONG RIDE. 163
between the golden carpet of buffalo grass and the pale green
of the mesquite tree dotting its surface.
How to descend was now the question nothing presented
itself in the descent but a mass of loose rocks of white streaked
limestone, no path ; no opening, the foot of white man never
before had been here, but descend we must, so the first foot
hold witnessed us, plunging, rolling and sliding men, horses
and mules, one after other, and sometimes on top of each
other, pell-mell to the bottom.
I concluded to turn my horse loose and let him shift for
himself, but came near losing him by the experiment. His
rein caught upon a scrub cedar, and there he hung, like
Mahomet's coffin, between heaven and earth, until fortunately
another horse rolled against the tree, broke it off, and both
came to the bottom together, safe except a few scratches.
When all had arrived at the bottom, Conner's first expres-
sion was, " now may be so, long ride to water," and so it
proved, we rode until nine at night, the Captain and the
Indians scouring the country in every direction, and found
none, when, just as we were all in despair the supply in our
bags being so insufficient a halloo in the distance, raised our
spirits only to be again depressed.
It was Jacobs, who had found water in a small branch of
Brazos, but on coming up, we found it so salt and bitter, that
even our animals would not drink it.
We were too much exhausted to go further, so unsaddling,
we prepared to pass the night and make out with the scanty
164 NOTES TAKEN.
store our water bags afforded us. Our miserable bivouac, was
made more cheerful, however, by the delicious steaks of the
fat doe killed in the afternoon, and now cooked by the Major
in a style which would have done credit to a finished
" cuisinier."
We supped heartily, and with hopes for to-morrow, rested
as well as tired men could, with a yelping concert of wolves
in their vicinity.
August 4th. Long before daylight, we were off without
breakfast, and riding rapidly and examining every spot where
water might be thought to be, about eight o'clock we found
in a branch, a small quantity of water, which though so putrid
as to scent the atmosphere, our famishing animals drank
greedily. We could not swallow it, though suffering terribly.
A curious sight presented itself here. Large numbers
of buffalo fish, had penetrated to this point in high water, and
their skeletons in thousands, lined the shores, where they had
perished after the water receded, and afforded a rich repast
for eagles and buzzards, whose feathers were thickly strewn
around.
We pushed on, and about ten o'clock, the Captain sur-
prised a panther, in his tracks the first one we had met with
and giving chase, soon came to a fine stream, which from
this circumstance, he called Panther Creek.
Joy at finding water, drove away all thoughts of the
panther, and shouting out the welcome news, we were soon
bivouaced under a wide spreading elm, enjoying good water
GLOOMY PROSPECTS. 165
and a savoury breakast of venison and wild turkies, large flocks
of which abounded in the vicinity. The stream, was bordered
with hackberry, willow, wild china, post oak and elm, grass
very green and luxuriant, and being of course all much over-
come, we rested here until three o'clock in the afternoon.
I found a large diamond back terrapin on the banks of the
stream, very similar to those found in the north ; deer were
plenty, and many wolves.
Heavy clouds and the low rumbling in the west, betokened
a coming storm, just as we had got all ready to start, and
before we got far it burst upon us terrifically, with rain, hail,
thunder and lightning. A storm, on the plains, is a serious
matter. The wind blows irresistibly, and the driving rain and
hail so cuts and blinds both men and horses, that no headway
can be made against it. My horse turned completely round
in his tracks, and it was with much difficulty that I forced him
to the shelter of a low clump of bushes, where, dismounting, I
seated myself under their scanty cover, whilst he instinctively
turned and exposed his haunches to the blast, and stood with
drooping head and reeking flanks, trembling in every limb,
until its violence had passed.
Wet and uncomfortable, we started once more, but our
troubles were not yet over. We had, as we thought, left
forever the nauseous and disgusting water of the Brazos
country, and after our pleasant bivouac, were all refreshed
and cheered by the prospect of better times in our eastward
march to camp, when, after a long ride in our wet clothes, we
15
166 NOTES TAKEN.
halted for the night, upon the banks of a fine running stream,
and unsaddling, prepared for rest and repose, supposing of
course, that the water was as good as that of Panther Creek,
but oh, what a disappointment ! Quite as bad in salt and
gypsum as the waters of the Upper Brazos, this had the
addition of more sulphur, and some rice cooked in it for the
invalids, tasted precisely as if mixed with gunpowder ; and to
cap the climax the rain again began to pour down in torrents.
We had to make the best of our situation, however, and to
obviate the evils that beset us, with the means in our power.
We had taken no precaution to refill our water-bags at
Panther Creek, feeling sure, as I before remarked, of finding
plenty, but about half a pint per man remained in them,
which tasted strongly of the gum, and having been heated and
cooled several times, was a nauseous dose. With this we
made some coffee, and building a fire under shelter of a bank,
our Indians cooked a turkey, after their fashion. We then
prepared quarters for the night.
A tent fly had been brought along, as an awning to noon
under, and by stretching a lariat between two trees, we
managed to make a triangular covering, open at both ends
and just wide enough to hold our party, provided no man
required more than his length and breadth to lay upon.
Under this we crept in our wet clothes, and many an
impatient groan and exclamation, told how uncomfortable our
quarters were, and how heartily we wished for morning.
Conner and the Indians went to work, and in an in-
DELICIOUS DREAMS. 167
credibly short space of time, constructed for themselves a
most primitive but excellent protection for the night.
Selecting two small mesquite trees, growing near each
other, they brought them together at top, to form the doon
and then cutting poles, bent them in semicircles from the
rear, all meeting in a point at the top, and covering this frame
with blankets and horse-cloths, forming a fac simile of an old
fashioned gig top, under which they all lay till morning. Our
sick man was here so ill that we were in doubts about being
able to get him to camp. "We slept restlessly and only from
sheer fatigue, our misery made more complete, by the attacks
of musquitoes, gnats, &c., who, like ourselves, seemed to have
sought shelter in our miserable tent.
I realized this night what I had often read of, viz. : the
delicious dreams of water and cooling beverages, persons who
are suffering from thirst experience. I fancied myself eating
ice cream, Roman punch and sherbet, and revelled in their
enjoyment, only to feel ten times more thirsty when I awoke.
August 5th. Morning dawned upon us with a clear
unclouded sky, and its first streaks found us on our eastward
march, glad to find relief even in the motion of our horses
from the sufferings of the night.
Much more rain had fallen in the section we reached after
a ride of two hours, so that we began to find rain-water in all
the holes and ravines we passed, and it is truly astonishing
what a quantity of water the system can hold after a long
deprivation ; canteen after canteen was emptied, and still
168 NOTES TAKEN.
whenever water appeared, each strove to be first to reach it,
and equally so with our animals, their thirst seemed
insatiable.
In crossing a ravine I found a curious bush, the leaf and
stalk like the willow, with branches of balls on the limbs,
similar to the sycamore, some green, some white, and others
deep maroon, the different stages of the maturity of the
plant. Conner said it was the button willow, a medical plant
used by the Indians in cases of dysentery.
The plain was undulating and crossed at intervals by lime-
stone ridges, timber mesquite ; the soil good and covered with
a rich coat of buffalo grass.
We saw many deer and wolves, and about ten, A. M., came
upon a chain of lakes, seven in number, the largest about
three hundred .yards long and twenty wide, the water clear
and sweet, and filled with catfish and soft turtles.
Here we nooned, dining off some delicious catfish, cooked
in the Major's best style, whose kindness, in this respect,
throughout our dreary journey, can never fade from our
memories.
We found the insects excessively annoying, which sur-
prised us very much, as the banks of the lake were steep
and rocky, and no marshy ground or mud in the vicinity,
We were particularly annoyed by large black gnats, about the
size of a common house-fly, and most inveterate blood suckers.
I may remark here, that on the head waters of the Brazos
and Witchita, insect life entirely disappears, or at least is so
FAIRY SPRING. 109
sparse as to be scarcely noticeable, a natural consequence
of the barren and desolate character of that region.
In the afternoon we changed our course north, towards
the dividing ridge, between the Big Witchita and the Brazos.
We crossed many fine limestone streams, and through the
clear water, could see the bed of the streams, perfect
pavements of large slabs of limestones, smooth and jointed,
as if done artificially. This occurring in every case made it
remarkable and worthy of note.
We reached the ridge and passed along the top, making a
very long march, before we found, an hour after sunset, a most
copious and beautiful limestone spring, which struck me so
singularly that I have described it minutely.
In a gentle undulation of the prairie, on the eastern side of
the ridge, we found this spring, rising out of the ground and
enclosed on three sides by a rectangular wall about four feet
high; at the narrowest part about six feet wide, and in
length about ten feet ; a small outlet emptied the overflow
into an irregular pool, large enough to contain sufficient water
for our thirsty animals, whilst we had the fountain for our-
selves.
It was a surprise and almost like a dream, after the hard-
featured country we had passed through, and our bivouac
gave ample evidence of this cheering change in our circum-
stances, for to crown all, a bright full moon shone over us.
We forgot fatigue, hunger and thirst, and a very late hour
found us enjoying song, joke and conversation, until drowsiness
15*
170 NOTES TAKEN.
overtook us in the midst, when, wrapped in our blankets, a
few hours gave us refreshment for another ride,
During our afternoon march, a rattlesnake of a new species,
as we thought, appeared in our path, and struck the Doctor
on the sole of his boot, whilst on horseback. It was dis-
patched without ceremony, but in the hurry, so much mangled
that we could do no more than take a general description of
it. It was orange-colored on the belly, white ground and
black marked in diamond upon the back, and had eight rattles.
It was very vicious, making battle after it was badly wounded.
This was the first time that any one of our party had come
near a catastrophe from this source ; a lucky escape !
August 6th. At sunrise we again ascended the ridge, and
marching in a north-east course along the top, found large
herds of deer. The soil very fertile, and mesquite timber
larger than any heretofore met with. The Doctor, attracted
by the large quantities of gum exuding from these trees, col-
lected several pounds of it, which he intended to analyze.
The tree is beyond doubt a species of acacia, the gum
having the same appearance and taste of the gum-arabic,
and exuding in sufficient quantities to warrant its collection
as an article of commerce, which would make a useful and
profitable employment for the wandering Indians, if they
could be induced to turn their attention to it.*
Soon the dividing ridge was found to be abruptly broken
* Since our return, an analysis has been made, and the report to the War
SHOOTING FISH. 171
into a succession of bluffs, and a beautiful view spread before
us. The Brazos in the distance, numerous short rocky bluffs,
opening with vistas of naesquite flats, and our far off camp,
which we were all so anxious to reach, lying in a clump of
elms, at a distance of twenty miles, discernible from our
elevated position.
"We descended, and wound through the openings in the
bluffs for some miles, the soil very rich, grass and timber in
abundance, until we came to a fine spring, shaded by a grove
of button willow, near which was a Kickapoo camp of seventy
lodges, making, with five to a lodge, three hundred and fifty
souls.
They had just moved camp, and from the well-picked
bones and lack of stench or scraps about, must have been
on very short allowance.
A mile farther we struck a creek, winding its broad, clear
stream over a flat rocky bottom, and abounding in fish and
soft turtles, a most inviting place so much so, that the
Captain, immediately decided to move over here as soon
after reaching our camp as possible.
department, proves it to be equal to the gum arabic, envelopes having been
sealed with it.
The subject of employing the Indians, in collecting this gum, was seriously
entertained by gentlemen on the frontier when we left, and no doubt the
experiment will be made and with every probability of profitable success, as the
immense quantity of mesquite trees in that region, cannot fail to afford an
inexhaustible supply, besides, whereas now the gum only exudes, from acci-
dental openings in the bark, a system of bleeding, similar to that pursued with
the sugar maple, must produce corresponding results.
172 NOTES TAKEN.
Here for the first time I saw fish shot from horseback.
Whilst the Major's horse was drinking an enormous cat-
fish made his appearance, and lay still long enough to
receive a bullet from his famous revolver, which had done
such good service in ridding us of rattlesnakes during our
trip. Conner told me he had frequently seen the Witchitas,
and other Indians, spear fish on horseback. Their plan was
for two or three to ride into the stream, armed with their
spears, and as one became tired another took his place, until
after chasing the fish from hole to hole, they worried them
down and speared them with ease. Farther south, the
Indians take large quantities of the electric eel, in the
following way:
The eel abounds in pools. A band of Indians, will drive
their whole herd of horses and mules into a pool and keep
them moving, the eels constantly striking their legs, until the
supply of electricity is exhausted, when the fish becomes
torpid and is easily taken. The philosophy of this is, that
after a discharge of electricity from the fish, it requires some
time for the electric function to restore itself to sufficient
vigor to act with effect.
The crossing, at this creek, being composed of one solid slab
of limestone, smooth and level, the Captain called it Flat
Rock Creek.
We continued our course, very anxious to get to camp, as
the sun was so intensely hot ; thermometer one hundred and
four degrees in the shade.
REACH CAMP. 173
We crossed the Brazos and came to a very rough country,
difficult to pass through, on account of briars and scrub oaks,
and about one, P. M., reached our camp, ten miles from where
we left it, the gentlemen in charge having moved to this
point to get purer water, and were now encamped in a beau-
tiful valley, surrounded by high bluffs, on one of which was a
Camanche grave.
We found several cases of sickness in camp, and among the
rest a bad case of black typhoid fever the first severe case of
any kind we had had since we had been out.
And now having finished our perilous trip into those unex-
plored and inhospitable regions, and returned once more to
enjoy the few comforts we left behind us, but one opinion pre-
vailed with us, viz. : that the dangers we encountered and the
privations we suffered had not been in vain, establishing as
they did the fact, that for all purposes of human habitation
except it might be for a penal colony those wilds are
totally unfit. Destitute of soil, timber, water, game, and
everything else that can sustain or make life tolerable, they
must remain as they are, uninhabited and uninhabitable.
Perhaps some use may be made of the mineral resources,
but that will have to be done under a load of peril to life, that
few will be willing to encounter, none to endure for any length
of time. Our party certainly, having left them without regret,
will never return to them, except in memory, and then in
reminiscences too painful far to be pleasant.
August 7th. We moved camp at dawn of day to Flat
174 NOTES TAKEN.
Rock Creek, where the natural advantages formed for us by
far the most inviting and pleasant resting place to recover
from our fatigue and toil that we had had during our whole
trip.
A grove of stately and gigantic elms lined the bank of the
stream for a quarter of a mile. Under the trees grew a rich
growth of wild rye. In front stretched a rolling prairie ; our
rear closed in and defended by the clear, deep waters of the
creek.
In a semicircle in front, and springing from the two
wings of camp, were parked our wagons to defend our front,
enclosing a space in which to herd our oxen and tether our
mules and horses. Under the trees were pitched our white
tents, a bright moon shining over all. Such was our camp
at Flat Eock Creek, a cozy picture of safety and comfort,
which to us, the returned vagabonds of the wilderness, had
even more of romance than our late bivouacs had of reality.
The stream was filled with catfish, eels and turtles. I
caught three varieties of the latter, viz., the snapper, the soft
shell and a black mud turtle, striped with yellow and red on
the head, body and legs. Of these the soft turtle was best
and more delicate than the green turtle, either in soup or
fricasee. It has an oval, dorsal shell hard in the centre,
with a broad, soft rim. The umbilical shell is, like the green
turtle, white. It has claws instead of flippers, but the most
striking peculiarity is the head, terminated with a snout like
a hog, about half an inch long.
CAMP CONCERTS. 175
The whole surface of the stream was dotted at intervals
with these heads when the creatures came up to breathe, and
as they bit readily at the hook, any quantity were taken.
The catfish and eels were of the most marvellous size and
delicacy, so that our stay here was spent in feasting to our
heart's content on food which did not require a hungry man
to relish, but which to us was doubly sweet after the priva-
tions of the past.
August 8th. We remained quiet all day, enjoying our
cool, breezy camp, and with the exception of a row among
the teamsters, ending in one being badly wounded and his
antagonist tied to a tree in the sun, the day passed pleas-
antly, nor did we forget our usual evening concerts, now that
the chorus was full.
We retired early to prepare for our march to the Clear
Fork in the morning, where we expected to meet the Ca-
manches, and anticipated an interesting time.
176 NOTES TAKEN.
CHAPTER XIII.
FLAT KOCK CREEK TO CLEAR FORK OF THE BRAZOS.
Camp in flames. Hot weather. Great change. Accident to Train Jacobs
leaves. Jackson the Delaware. First Cainanches met. Description of Ke-
tum-e-see and wives. Talk held. Camp at Double Mountain Fork. Chief
and wives leave. Large Cactus met with. Reach the Clear Fork. Stem's
Bancho. Indian Justice. Camp on Clear Fork.
AUGUST 9th. "We marched early and left our late pleasant
camp in flames behind us. The tall rye and rank grass
made a fierce and rapid conflagration, which for days after-
wards we could trace by the smoke on the horizon.
The day proved most intensely hot, and to our disappoint-
ment water was very scarce on our route. About noon, a
pool of tepid water was discovered in a ravine, and as the
prairie had been very much broken, making hard work for
the oxen, many of which gave out, and one dropped dead,
the Captain concluded to halt and encamp until next
morning. We camped upon a hill very hot and dry, and had
scarcely got settled when the prairie took fire, and was
extinguished with difficulty, making warm work for a hot
day.
The contrast to our stay at Flat Rock Creek was far from
pleasant, but we had become so accustomed to take it (to use
a trite expression,) rough and tumble, that our spirits were
OUR GUIDE. 177
not much affected. We all seemed determined to enjoy the
fat when we could get it, and to be happy when we had to
put up with the lean.
Though deer were plenty and the Delawares kept our
larder well supplied, still we passed an uncomfortable after-
noon and a more uncomfortable night, as insects were nume-
rous and annoying.
August 10th. "We marched at two A. M. the prairie very
rough, broken and almost bare of grass. Soon an accident
occurred to the train, when Jacobs gave us a specimen of
the nerve and reliability of the Indian upon his own powers
and sagacity.
Our anxiety to hear from home and friends induced us
at Flat Eock Creek, to prevail upon him to go into Fort
Belknap, mail letters sent by him, and bring us what
might be there.
Never having been in this country before, he would have
to depend upon powers which, with Indians, seem to me to
be instinct more than calculation. He consented to go, but
proposed to march with us until daylight this morning. The
accident detaining us some time, he became impatient, and
suddenly wheeled his horse at a tangent, and grunting out,
half in soliloquy, " May be so he too long," disappeared in
the gloom, to our left. On the afternoon of the tenth day
from this date, he made his appearance in our camp on the
Clear Fork, seventy-five miles from this point, bringing our
letters, papers, &c.. from Fort Belknap, where he arrived on
16
178 NOTES TAKEN.
the fourth day after he left us, having found his way there
and back through this trackless wilderness as true as the
needle to the Pole. Surely, what life can be more calculated
to harden the frame and steel the nerves, than this, one of
such bold self-reliance.
One of our Delawares, Jackson, amused us very much during
our ride. He had always appeared to us demure and morose
in temperament, but to our surprise and amusement he broke
out with one of our camp-fire songs, which, requiring a good
deal of action, made it very ludicrous, the whole performance
proving to me my before-formed opinion, that the Indian is
far from being the non-observant creature he is supposed to
be. The tone, the manner, and gesticulation of the original
of this song, were expressed, though somewhat in broad bur-
lesque, yet sufficiently accurate to prove a quick perception
of the ridiculous and close imitative powers.
Shortly after daylight we reached a deep, broad bed of a
creek, which requiring heavy work to bridge, we halted and
encamped.
Our amateur sportsmen started in pursuit of game, and
found the creek full of deep water, a mile below camp, and
plenty of catfish, gar, and soft turtle.
A new species of gar was seen here, of a deep, shiny black
colour, the shape, size, &c., the same as the grey gar.
About noon, Indians were seen approaching, and pretty
soon Ke-tum-e-see, a chief of the Southern band of Camanches
rode in, accompanied by two of his wives. He told us that he
NARROW ESCAPE. 179
had been riding very hard and far to overtake us. He heard
we were in the country, and endeavoured to persuade some of
his band to visit us, but they were too lazy, so he determined
to come alone, and had been six days on our trail, following
it through a good portion of the Upper Brazos country,
where, like ourselves, he came near perishing for want of
water.
In addition, he gave us the agreeable intelligence, that a
war party of two hundred and fifty northern Camanches,
Apaches and Navajoes, had been hovering around us,
between the Big Witchita and Brazos for two days.
They were on a foray to the frontier of Mexico, to take
revenge for some of their bands, shot whilst on one of their
marauding expeditions last year, and coming across our trail,
followed it until reconnoitering and finding but thirteen in
our party, they hesitated to attack us, feeling sure that a
large command must be in the neighborhood, as they could
not believe that so small a force of white men would venture
so far into their fastnesses, unless supported at short
distance by a large party so that the order of things was
reversed, in our case, and in our weakness, we found our
immunity from annihilation.
We felt much obliged to them for their forbearance, and on
questioning him further, found out the night when they were
nearest us. It was the night when the gentlemen of the
party were on guard, and we all had remarked how unusually
restless our horses and mules were, a sure sign of danger near.
180 NOTES TAKEN.
Ke-tum-e-see, was a fine-looking man, about fifty years old,
full six feet high, with a dark red bronze complexion.
His wives (these were two, and the youngest of four,
whom he commanded) were mere children, the one about
eighteen and the other not sixteen years old.
Both were pleasing in their appearance, but entirely dif-
ferent ; the youngest being chubby and dark, the eldest lean
and as fair as a quadroon. Whether it was by accident or
from choice that the chief had made his selection, I know not,
perhaps, a spice of both, though he gave us to understand he
was quite an epicure in such matters.
An odd mixture of wealth and poverty, marked this trio.
Ke-tum-e-see was dressed in corduroy leggins and buckskin
moccasins, much worn, an old, torn, greasy, checkered
cotton coat, and a sixpenny straw hat, whilst his bridle was
ornamented with perhaps fifty dollars worth of silver.
His wives were attired in dark calico shirts, with leggings
and moccasins "in one piece, like a boot; their clothes thin,
dirty and common, and heads bare ; the hair short, thick and
uncombed, whilst their bridles were similarly ornamented as
the chiefs ; and the youngest, who appeared to be the favorite,
wore in addition, a girdle studded with silver brooches, very
heavy, showy and costly. The wives rode astride, driving the
pack horses, who bore their scanty stock of cooking utensils,
blankets, skins, &c., and as soon as they arrived, set diligently
to work to unsaddle, unbridle and lariat the horses, and make
from bushes and blankets a temporary shelter for their lord.
THE TALK. 181
The chief threw aside his riding dress and came up to our
tent to dine, " in puris naturalibus," except his red blanket.
The only ornament or appendage he wore was a long tail of
buffalo hair, depending from a bunch of eagle's feathers,
fastened on the crown of his head, and reaching in a four-fold
plait to the ground ; a mark of his rank in the tribe. In
eating, drinking and smoking, he appeared very abstemious,
but this turned out to be " for the nonce." He wrote (or at
least copied) our names, and told Conner, who was interpreter,
to tell the captain, that when the sun went down, he wanted
to talk.
In the afternoon the elder of the wives visited us and
interested us very much by her simplicity and curiosity. A
burning glass, compass and magnet were shown her, and her
delight knew no bounds, until finally the old chief, either
fearing she might learn too much, or from jealousy, ordered her
away, in a short gruff tone, and retired himself to his
shealing. At sun-down he returned for the talk. After a
smoke he commenced, holding in his hand a bundle of short
stalks of grass. Handing these, one by one, to the Captain,
he made his remarks upon each, representing by each, one of
the chiefs or war captains of his band, and giving his dispo-
sition towards the whites. After remarking upon four of
high standing, and three of mediocrity, he bundled the
balance, eight in number, in a bundle, and handed them
together, with a grunt and remark, " no count." He then
expressed himself as anxious to come into any measures pro-
16*
182 NOTES TAKEN.
posed by Captain Marcy ; swore eternal friendship for the
whites, and ended by volunteering to return and induce his
people, by all means, to meet us on the Clear Fork. Another
smoke all round, and the talk closed ; the chief went to his
shealing, and we to repose, after our early start and hot day,
thermometer one hundred and four in the shade.
August llth. At one, A. M., we were on the march again,
and moving very slowly on account of the roughness of the
prairie.
Ke-tum-e-see and wives marched with us, intending to
spend the day, and leave in the morning for the camp of his
band.
Arriving at Double Mountain Fork of the Brazos, we found
so much work to be done, in bridging, that orders were given
to encamp.
The heat was intense, the thermometer, at nine A. M., one
hundred and five degrees in the shade, the stream was full of
fish and turtles, so that those who chose to brave the heat, had
fine sport.
We saw but little of the chief and his wives, as they were
resting all day. A general lassitude also pervaded our camp,
from early rising, long marches and intense heat, so that the
day passed quietly.
During our march, we found plenty of the missletoe on the
Mesquite trees ; we found limestone and iron ore in abund-
ance, the timber, elm, mesquite, wild china, and post oak.
August 12th. As early as usual we were in motion, and
PRICKLY PEAR. 183
passed the Double Mountain Fork, entering immediately,
upon a very fertile region, alternately with mesquite flats and
limestone ridges.
The chief and his wives, left us, in true wild Indian style
" sans ceremonie." They had been riding in advance of the
train, and suddenly wheeling to the right disappeared over a
ridge, without turning to say good bye, or give any other signal
of their intention.
The day was intensely hot, thermometer one hundred and
six degrees, and we made a very long march, being anxious
to get to the Clear Fork, for fear the Camanches if there,
might get tired waiting, leave, and thus defeat our plans for
them.
In crossing a limestone ridge, an extensive prairie, spread
out before us, covered as far as we could see, with a very
rank growth of sunflower, a sure indication of a rich soil.
Crossing this with difficulty, for it was so thick and tall that
we had to force our horses through it, we came suddenly
upon the road from Belknap to Chadbourne, and marching in
a northerly direction encamped about seven miles from the
Clear Fork, near two pools of tolerable water.
On this prairie were some gigantic growths of the prickly
pear. Some we passed were fifteen feet high and forty in
circumference, of the broad palmated species.
In New Mexico, this plant is used as a most nutritious and
excellent food for stock. It is cut with a hooked knife (made
on purpose and fastened on a long handle,) a*nd laid in layers
184 NOTES TAKEN.
with dry coarse grass between, the whole then set fire too,
when a few minutes deprives the plant of its thorny prickles,
and it is then eaten with great avidity by stock; an
excellent substitute in a country where grass is so scarce.
Immense flocks of doves covered the plain, attracted by
the seeds of the sunflowers, and we shot numbers for our mess
table.
, August 13th. At an early hour we reached the Clear Fork,
which, at the crossing, was about thirty yards wide, running
through perpendicular rocky banks over a rocky bed, the
water beautifully clear and the valley of the Clear Fork about
a mile wide.
To our surprise, on ascending the opposite bank, the road
wound through a large field of oats on one side and corn on
the other, and in the distance, we saw a house, the first we
had seen for near three months it carried us back to home
and friends. In this solitary spot, Colonel Stem, late Indian
agent, established this rancho, about three years since. The
corn and oats were put in with the labour of eight men, and
by simply turning over a furrow with the plough, no necessity
for harrowing or pulverizing. The crop sold, in the ground,
for forty-five 'hundred dollars, a proof of the fertility of the
soil.
The Colonel, on his return from his rancho in February,
1854, in company with a friend, was murdered by a wandering
party of Kickapoos ; they shot at them, but missing, clubbed
their rifles and beat them to death, then stealing what was
INDIAN JUSTICE. 185
most valuable, made their escape. This occurred within ten
miles of Fort Belknap.
The punishment of these murderers is an instance of the
manner in which justice is done among these barbarous people.
From information given by a boy who was with the Indians
at the time the murders were committed, the commanding
officer at Fort Arbuckle sent for the Kickapoo chiefs, and
told them the murderers must be given up, at the same time
a large reward was offered for their apprehension.
The chiefs told him that they had been in council all night
upon the matter ; that they knew the murders were committed
by two of their band, who were absent on assembling the men
of the tribe, and that they had sent their people out by threes
in search, so that any person meeting one Kickapoo alone, or
two in company, might immediately arrest him or them. In
a short time one of the murderers was arrested by his own
people, firmly bound, and placed on horseback to be taken
into the fort. A short distance from that place, he managed
to free himself from his bonds, and throwing himself from the
horse attempted to escape, but was immediately shot down
and his dead body carried in and delivered to the officer in
command. The other made his escape, but after eluding
pursuit for a time made his way to a village where his
brother lived. Entering this, he commenced exclaiming in a
loud voice, " I am the murderer of Colonel Stem, will no one
take me and deliver me up for punishment ?" In this way he
reached his brother's lodge, entering which, he said, " My
186 NOTES TAKEN.
brother, I committed this murder. I am tired of life. I am
hunted down like a wild beast, and I want to die. I tried to
join the Camanches, but would have starved to death before
I could have found them." Food was set before him, of
which he partook. His brother and he then walked out of
the village, when the former said to him, "My brother, you
have disgraced our tribe, and it is my duty to kill you. I
have all along told you that your course of life would lead
you to this, and however painful it may be to me, yet justice
demands the sacrifice, I must kill you." Stepping behind
him he then felled him to the earth with his tomahawk, and
with repeated blows despatched him. A council was then
held, at which the brother made a speech, stating what he
had done, and why, ending by calling for a volunteer to
behead the body and take the head into the fort, as the dis-
tance was too great and the weather too hot to take the
whole corpse. No one volunteering, he then said, "I must
do it myself," which he did, and carried the head to Fort
Arbuckle, where it was buried. Such is Indian justice.
We passed the rancho and encamped about a mile below,
intending to wait for the Camanches, who had not yet arrived.
Soon after encamping, Ke-tum-e-see again made his appear-
ance. He said he had concluded not to take his wives with
him, as it was uncertain where he should find his band, and
they might have a long ride a rare instance of consideration
in a wild Indian. He left them in charge of Connor, and
started in course of the afternoon.
CAMP ON CLEAR FORK. 187
Our camp was very convenient and picturesque. A level
prairie, bounded on the west by a range of bluffs, extended for
about six miles in length and half a mile wide.
We were encamped on the eastern edge, about one hundred
feet above the Clear Fork, between which and us was a low
valley, shaded by noble pecan and elm trees, where the mess
fires were lighted, and the Delawares made their camp.
The prairie was destitute of timber, but very breezy, and
free from insects.
Our wagons were parked in a large semicircle in front, and
with the valley and river in our rear, we were secure from
attack. A large and cool spring percolated from the bank a
short distance below our camp, and, with the fish and turtles
from the stream, we had a very good time during our stay,
which was a long one.
Several deserted camps were scattered over the valley,
showing this to be a favourite spot with the wild Indians, and,
in roaming around, I picked up beads and other relics.
The stream afforded delightful bathing ground, which we
availed ourselves of during our stay, and could now roll up in
our blankets at night, with the comfortable assurance of no
more early starts and long rides, under that blazing sun, for
some days a great relief, with the thermometer averaging
one hundred and four degrees daily, the nights, as usual,
always pleasant, and seeming as if made for sleep.
188 NOTES TAKEN.
CHAPTEE XIV.
CAMP ON CLEAR FORK OF THE BRAZOS.
Sub-chiefs arrive. Incidents with the chiefs. Story of the German settlement.
Exploring the country. Se-na-co and party arrive. Description of the
party. Interesting woman. Invalid described. Mexican boy. Naroni and
his costume. Camanche women. Camanche lance and shield. Feeding the
Indians. Toilette of the men described. Indian dance. Dressing skins.
Council held. Presents distributed. Women bathing. Plan of hardening
horses' hoofs. Little Mexican. Indians leave. Remarks upon traders.
New species of Squirrels. Ke-tum-e-see and the invalid. Excitement in camp
Move camp.
AUGUST 14th. When Major Neighbours sent out runners
to the Camanches, he intimated to them the plans of the
government, and they in reply expressed their wish to be set-
tled upon the Clear Fork, as it was their old hunting and win-
tering ground. Ke-tum-e-see having corroborated this state-
ment preparations were immediately made to explore in the
vicinity of camp, but about ten, A. M., just as the party were
about to start, two sub-chiefs of Se-na-co's band rode in to
hold a talk. Their names were Qua-ha-we-tah, or tall tree,
and Oti, or hunting a wife. The latter was by birth a Tonka-
way, but was taken prisoner by the Camanches when a child;
he had adopted their habits and tribe, and become a chief
among them. Both were tall, powerful, athletic men, very
savage in their appearance, scantily dressed, and fully
OTI. 189
painted. They rode into camp bareheaded, with umbrellas
hoisted, an incident which occasioned some merriment.
Previous to holding the talk, they improved their toilette,
when I perceived what gave Oti his more than usually dia-
bolical appearance, which I could not account for before on
account of the load of paint with which his face was covered.
Producing a small looking glass and a pair of rude tweezers,
which he used with great dexterity, he proceeded to pull out
every hair he could find upon his face. His hair on his head
was cropped close, except the crown tuft, from which de-
pended his buffalo hair plait, and commencing at the roots of
the hair on his forehead, he pulled out eyebrows, eyelashes,
beard, &c., and then smearing the whole with yellow clay,
streaked his eyelids with vermillion, spotted his cheeks with
the same, and finished by daubing his chin with black, making
a most hideous specimen out of himself in a very short time
The other was not so particular, but with his matted hair,
hooked nose, and wide mouth, was ugly enough without any
effort to increase it.
They held their talk, and told us that we must not believe
Ke-tum-e-see, that he was a liar and a scoundrel, and that
they would go off and bring in Se-na-co, who alone was
authorized to speak for the tribe ; they said the tribe was
friendly, and would accede to the proposed settlement.
Rations were then served to them, and they passed the night
under the trees in the valley, intending to leave early in the
morning.
17
190 NOTES TAKEN.
In the course of the afternoon Oti asked me for some sugar
from the dish standing on our camp-table ; and as our stock
was small, I took out several large lumps and offered them.
He shook his head and walked off, apparently angry. Pretty
soon he returned, and pointed again to the dish. I nodded
my head, and he deliberately poured the whole into his bag.
The same thing happened with their rations; they refused
them, and the commissary-corporal immediately reported the
case to the Captain, who told him to double them ; this was
done, and they took them at once.
August 15th. On coming out this morning, I was surprised
to find the chiefs still lingering around camp, although having
saddled up their horses. I found out that they had seen
some whiskey and wanted to get it. Both were armed with
bows and arrows in addition to their rifles. I tried to barter
for a bow, quiver and arrows, offering goods and money to
much more than their value, but no, they would trade for
nothing but whiskey, and upon my offering it, (which I
did to try them,) were willing to give their bows and arrows
for a bottle full.
Conner told me that this was their way, if they want any-
thing, they must have it, let it cost what it will. He said he
once got a mule, which he afterwards sold for fifty dollars, for
a plug of tobacco, and, as I have observed before, I could
readily have got the two bows, quivers and arrows, for a short
quart of whiskey. They care nothing about money, as they
cannot use it, all they think of is the gratification of their
STRANGE STORY. 191
appetite, even if this, as in this instance, should cost them the
very means by which they sustain life. As I would not give
them the whiskey, they mounted and rode off looking very
glum and disappointed.
Conner told me that it was but a short time since the Ca-
manches would drink 'whiskey, always refusing it and saying
that it made fools of them and they did not like it, but a
colony of Germans settled upon the upper waters of the
Canadian, and from frequently visiting them the appetite has
been acquired by occasional indulgences, and now is quite
prevalent among them.
He related a strange tale connected with this German
settlement, which although savoring so much of the marvel-
lous, I am obliged to believe, from his earnest asseverations
of its truth, and my own observations upon the character
of the wild Indians.
Shortly after the German emigration, a wild Camanche
who had never seen them, met one in the prairie. The Ger-
man wore his full beard, which with his hair was long and
shaggy. Surprised at this unusual sight, the Indian shot him
and skinned his whole head, the skin having been afterwards
found in his possession, preserved and shown as a specimen
of an unfound race of men.
Notwithstanding this bloody stretch of curiosity, Conner
said that the Germans and Indians lived on terms of great
amity, the former treating them with great hospitality when-
ever they visited the settlement, and a very straight road to
192 NOTES TAKEN.
a wild Indian's heart is through his stomach, as they are
always ready to eat and drink.
August 16th and 17th were spent in explorations to find
a suitable tract to be surveyed for the location of the Oa-
manches, and finally one was selected about three miles
farther up the stream from our camp, comprising every
essential of upland and meadow, with fine water and timber,
the amount of land necessary being six square leagues.
August 18th. Se-na-co and his party arrived to-day. He
was very prepossessing in his appearance, about five feet
eight inches in height, not stout, but his frame firmly knit,
very dark complexion, with a countenance mild but decided.
He dressed without any ornament, and in this respect was a
great contrast to his followers.
With him came Qua-ha-we-ti and Oti, the chiefs who had
previously visited us, and Naroni, or little piece of meat thrown
over a pole, and Straight-fellow, two war captains, besides a
large party of warriors, women and children.
A very interesting woman accompanied this party. She
was the widow of San-ta-na, a celebrated chief who died
about three years since, and still mourned her loss, going
out every evening in the neighborhood of camp, to howl and
cry and cut herself with knives, according to the custom
among them of persons in affliction. She had separated her-
self in a measure from the tribe, and formed a band of
women, seven in number, like herself widows. She owned
a large herd of mules and horses, and was a most successful
THE INVALID. 193
hunter, having alone shot with her rifle fifteen deer in a
morning's hunt. She was a fine looking woman, an Amazon
in size and haughty bearing, rode astride, and dressed in
deep black.
There was an invalid in the party, a chief, crippled with
rheumatism and disease of the spine, drawn into a sitting
posture by his ailments, emaciated to a skeleton, and a most
pitiable sight, particularly distressing to us from our know-
ledge of the hardships and privations suffered by them in
their wandering life.
The poor creature was perched upon a rude contrivance
of sticks lashed on a horse, and bolstered with bags of grass,
with a blanket and circingle passed over and around the
whole to keep him steady, and having the feeble use of his
hands, he guided the horse without assistance. A rude
litter accompanied him, upon which he could ride during
heat and exhaustion. This was constructed by lashing long
poles to either side of a mule, leaving the ends trailing, upon
the ground. Cross sticks were lashed upon the trailing ends,
and skins slung to these made the bed, and by the addition
of two poles bent in semicircles and fastened diagonally over
the bed, a shelter from the sun was made by covering them
with green branches.
He had a slave to lead or drive the mule and lift him back
and forth. This was a boy about sixteen, a Mexican, taken
prisoner in some foray, dressed and painted like an Indian,
and apparently quite reconciled to his degraded life, the
17*
194 NOTES TAKEN.
, . , "
whole forming a wretched picture of misery and poverty,
mixed with considerable ingenuity and contrivance.
Naroni rode in in grand costume. He wore an old blue
military coat, with tarnished epaulettes, and covered with bul-
let buttons, a wampum necklace, almost equal to a breast-
plate, numerous ear-rings, finger-rings, and a large ring in his
nose, completely encircling his mouth, and bright red leggins.
But his crowning glory was his head-dress. From the crown
of his head started out four long eagle's feathers, two on each
side. To the centre was attached his buffalo hair plait, stud-
ded, at intervals of an inch or two, with enormous silver
medallions, of an oval shape, and at least four inches in largest
diameter. This plait swept the ground, and he seemed to set
great store by it, as nothing would induce him to part with
one of the ornaments. A rifle and bow, quiver and arrows,
completed his costume and equipments ; but being slender in
figure and short in stature, his appearance was not at all
imposmg.
Straightfellow was very miserably clad, dirty and ragged,
with a very forbidding countenance, indicative of cunning and
cruelty.
The women were ugly, crooked-legged, stoop-shouldered,
squalid and dirty, with haggard and prematurely old counte-
nances, their hair cropped close to their heads, and with scarce
a rag to cover their nakedness.
They led, or drove off, the pack-horses and mules into the
valley, and soon all was life and bustle some cutting down
WAR IMPLEMENTS. 195
green limbs to construct their temporary shelter, some build-
ing fires, cooking, &c., and others unsaddling, unpacking,
watering and tethering their animals.
Some of the visiters made their shealings on the prairie
above us, so that, in a little while, we were surrounded by these
wild creatures. Among these was a warrior armed with a
lance and shield. The lance was a long, straight piece of steel,
about two feet and a half long and an inch wide, tapering to a
point. This was fixed into a slender handle of bois d'arc,
about four feet and a half long, making the weapon seven feet
in length ; the handle ornamented with tufts of coloured cot-
ton yarn and strips of cloth worked with beads.
The shield was round, and about two feet in diameter,
made of wicker-work, covered first with deer skins and then
a tough piece of raw buffalo-hide drawn over, making it proof
against arrow-heads. It was ornamented with a human sccilp,
a grizzly bear's claw and a mule's tail, significant of the
brave warrior and successful hunter and horse-thief, and the
fastenings for the arm were pieces of cotton cloth twisted
into a rope.
During their stay, we endeavoured to get this man to show
us his exercise with these weapons, but he peremptorily
refused, and this I understood is universal with them, a proof
of their cunning.
These Indians had plenty of horses and mules, but generally
a very inferior stock, the rest of their camp material was
meagre and scanty in the extreme.
196 NOTES TAKEN.
August 19th. The first thing wild Indians ask for on
coming into camp, is something to eat, they are always ready
and consume large quantities.
The Captain had an ox killed for them this morning, and
the women were soon busy in preparing it for present and
future use. Every edible part was consumed, even the
entrails, which are considered a choice delicacy, were drawn
through the coals and devoured, reeking with excrement.
The women boned the flesh and then split it, haggling and
carving it into long chains of lumps and then throwing it over
poles, dried it in the sun, when it looked like links of stale
sausage. The caul, suet, and other inside fat, were dried
whole, and the cannon bones and hoofs first scorched before
the fire and then hung up in the sun.
The portions of meat iatended for present use, were pre-
pared by placing them upon a rude scaffold over a slow fire,
in the same way as previously described among the Kicka-
poos, and which I have seen done by the frontier squatters.
It dries the meat, without depriving it of its juices, and pre-
vents decomposition. A supply of corn from the rancho above
us, together with some coffee and sugar, capped the climax
of their happiness, and their bivouac wore a very cheerful
appearance during the day.
The men of the party spent the day in painting themselves
and lounging in their shealings, or wandering listlessly from
tent to tent, expressing either surprise or pleasure by a grant
or a grin.
THE TOILETTE. 197
The intense heat thermometer one hundred and six
degrees caused them to denude themselves entirely, except
the breech-cloth, so that with the yellow, black and red
paint, they presented a motley appearance.
They parted their hair from the centre of the forehead
back to the crown, and made a streak of yellow, white or
red, along the divide, a custom in which they were greatly
assisted by large beds of yellow and white clay, which they
discovered in the valley some distance down the stream.
I could not discover whether each had a distinct style of
daubing himself, but suppose this to be the case, as all were
different.
A fat, chubby faced warrior, painted a fac simile of a saw
around his jaws in black, his cheeks red, his eye-lids white,
and his forehead and divide of his hair yellow, smearing his
body also with yellow.
The invalid painted his face red, his eyelids white and
streaked his face with black, like a ribbed nose babboon.
Another painted one side black and the other yellow, con-
tinuing the process down to his waist. Another daubed
yellow on one side and red on the other, his eyelids white and
streaks of black upon his cheeks, in imitation of snakes. The
boys also painted themselves ; and several of the women had
cheeks and hair stained with red. In short, all that savage
fancy could do to increase savage ugliness was done, and a
more diabolical, and at the same time ludicrous set, it would
be hard to meet with.
198 NOTES TAKEN.
About nine at night several of them collected upon the
prairie to sing and dance. Seated on the ground in a circle,
the leader commenced drumming upon a tin mess pan, accom-
panied with a low, guttural, monotonous chaunt, at intervals
raising his voice louder, when a general grunt or a yell was
added by the rest, and the whole strain ended with a pro-
longed ugh.
They sung for more than an hour, occasionally two or three
throwing their arms up and hopping around like what chil-
dren call playing at frogs, ending by seating themselves again
with a grunt. i/ij ;
I soon tired of the scene, which by the light of a low fire
looked more like a parcel of monkeys at dull play than any
thing else. Their audience of teamsters and soldiers, how-
ever, seemed greatly 'pleased, and as a novelty it was some-
what interesting.
August 20. The usual morning toilette was gone through
with by the men, but the intense heat one hundred and five
degrees in the shade kept all quiet in and about camp,
except the women, some of whom were unusually busy, con-
spicuous among whom were the two wives of the chief Ke-
tum-a-see.
Our Delawares took the opportunity to have their deer
skins of which they had accumulated quite a large bale
dressed by these women, and the process was very simple but
rapid. Having soaked the skins thoroughly, they threw them
over a smooth log leaned against a tree at an angle, and then
THE COUNCIL. 199
taking a rib of a deer in both hands, removed the hair by
scraping it against the grain ; they then stretched and dried
them, when they became beautifully soft and white. To
color them, they tied several into a chimney shape, hung to
a limb, and building smoulder fires under them they soon
changed to yellowish brown on the hair side, and light
yellow on the flesh side.
Great apprehensions were entertained that Ke-tum-e-see
had been waylaid and murdered, as he was absent so long, but
about noon he rode in, and gave as a reason for his delay that
he had spent the time in endeavoring to persuade his followers
to come in, but without success. His two wives ran to meet
him, and seemed quite overjoyed at his arrival, most probably
because he had left them entirely among strangers, as I
cannot imagine any affection in the case.
At dusk the chiefs were assembled in council, and seated
on the ground around the light of candles and lanterns, pipes
were smoked, and Captain Marcy addressed them, through
Conner, the interpreter.
Captain Marcy told them " that he had seen their Great
Father in Washington, and he had sent him out to locate and
survey lands for them, that they might have homes and learn
to cultivate the soil and no longer lead the uncertain life they
did ; that buffalo had disappeared from these plains and deer
and other game were fast disappearing ; that in a few years
they and their children would have to resort to some other
means than the chase for a subsistence ; that they would not
200 NOTES TAKEN.
be permitted to depredate upon the white settlements, and
there was no alternative they must learn to cultivate the
soil.
He told them " that their Great Father would send them
agricultural implements and seeds, also men to teach them
to farm, and that he would provide for them until a
crop was raised. That he Captain Marcy had been
among tribes in the North, who once lived as they were
living, but who, on advice, had learned to cultivate the soil,
and were now living like the whites, with plenty to eat and
wear. That if they would do as their Great Father wished
them, they would have reason to thank him in a few years.
That an agent would be sent to reside among them, and with
the assistance of the United States' troops would see that
they were not molested by white men, or other wild Indians
if they remained friendly.
Se-na-co rose and replied, speaking in a slow, distinct and
impressive tone, using but little gesticulation, but repeatedly
placing his hand upon his heart. He said, "The chiefs and
head men of the Southern Camanches have authorized me to
reply to the talk which our Great Father has sent us by our
friend, Captain Marcy.
" What I ani about to say will be straight-forward and the
truth, and the sentiment of all my people.
" We remember what our former chief, Mo-ko-cho-pe told
us before he died, and we endeavor to carry out his wishes
SA-NA-CO. 201
after he is gone. He visited our Great Father at Washing-
ton, and brought us a talk from him.
" He told us to take the advice and example of the whites,
and it would make us happy and benefit us.
" We are glad to hear the talk which has been sent us at
this time ; it makes our hearts warm, and we feel happy in
knowing that our Great Father remembers his poor red chil-
dren on the prairies.
" We accept this talk, and will endeavour to accede to all
our Great Father requires of us.
" I am pleased to see our friend, Captain Marcy, once more.
I well remember seeing him five years since, near this very
place, when I stayed over night with him, and have often
inquired of the whites I have met, what had become of him,
and I was much pleased when I was told he was to meet us
here."
He stopped, seated himself, and many questions were put to
him, which he answered freely and favourably.
All this time Ke-tum-e-see sat like a statue, glum and silent,
evidently displeased at not having been spokesman.
Although he and Se-na-co expressed themselves anxious to
meet the views of the government, they were evidently afraid
of their followers, and we anticipated that much perplexity
might arise from this cause.
The presents consisting of printed cottons, handkerchiefs,
blankets, knives, stroudding for leggins, armlets of silver, long
18
202 NOTES TAKEN.
wampum beads, paint, &c., were now handed in bulk to the
chiefs, and, after another smoke, the council closed.
August 21st. This morning the chiefs distributed the
presents, and great delight was manifested, particularly
among the squaws, who kept up a continuous chattering.
It requires a good deal of knowledge of Indian fancies to
select presents with judgment. Different tribes have differ-
ent tastes. The northern Indians like gay clothing and
blankets, ear-rings, brooches and beads of bright colours.
The Camanches prefer dark clothes and heavy silver armlets,
and long wampum beads, both the latter being very expen-
sive, particularly the wampum beads, which are to be pro-
cured but in one place, a small town in New Jersey.*
Our stock of presents was very well selected, so that all
were pleased and spent the rest of the day in painting and
bedizening themselves, making many a funny show.
I surprised a party of women whilst they were bathing
in the stream at mid-day, or rather they surprised me, as
they bathed along side of the road and in sight of camp. I
observed, however, that they showed great dexterity in
avoiding unnecessary exposure. Wrapping blankets around
themselves, they entered the stream where a tree or bush
* Wampum is made of the thick and blue part of aea clam-shells. The thin
covering of this part being split off, a hole is drilled in it, and the form is
produced and the pieces made smooth by a grindstone. The form is that of the
cylindrical glass beads called bugles. When finished they are strung upon
small hempen cords about a foot long. In the manufacture of wampum from
ix to ten strings are considered a day's work.
ARTEMISIA. '203
stood or hung convenient for them to place their blankets on
so soon as they were immersed, and thus avoided exposure
almost entirely.
The Camanches are very fond of bathing, both men and
women, but cleanliness is only partially promoted by it, as
they are either unable or neglect to change their clothing,
but wear it in a filthy state.
The women observed the same modest caution in mount-
ing their horses. They rode astride, and like all Indians
mounted upon the right side of the horse. Drawing the
left foot up, after placing the right in the stirrup, they
extended it over the saddle at right angles to the right,
instead of describing the arc of a circle, performing the feat
and seating themselves with much ease and grace. This
fact was common to all the females we met.
Towards sunset I observed one of the Chief's wives lead-
ing a horse and mule slowly backwards and forwards through
a slow fire, which scattered over quite a large bare spot of
ground, made a dense white smoke without flame, and at the
same time I was sensible of an aromatic perfume proceeding
from the valley. Upon inquiry, I found it was the process
of hardening the hoofs by exposing them to the smoke and
vapour of the wild rosemary artemisia large quantities of
which grew in the valley of the Clear Fork.
August 22d. A little Mexican made his appearance
among the Indians this morning, dressed in a gay dressing-
gown and pantaloons, and was immediately recognized by
204 NOTES TAKEN.
the Captain as a worthy he had seen during his Red River
trip among the Witchitas. At that time, the Captain asked
him why he did not leave the Indians and go home among
his own people. He replied, "Me bin so long mong
Witchita, me lie, me steal horse good as any, me big rascal,
same as Witchita."
If an honest confession is good for the soul, this certainly
was a case in point, if there is any truth in physiognomy,
for a more cunning rascally countenance no one ever saw.
He rode off in company with some of the party when they
left, having succeeded in getting a handkerchief and some
other articles, either by begging or stealing.
Se-na-co and some of the chiefs, with their followers, left us
during the day, shaking hands all round and apparently very
friendly. They had dined and supped with us several times,
behaving with great decorum, sitting at table and using
knives and forks, but wild Indian-like, never stopping until
every thing edible was consumed. This peculiarity applies,
in a great measure, to all Indians ; so much so, that rations
had to be issued to our Delawares for three days only at a
time, for just as like as not, they would consume the whole
in one day. They have no idea of economy or of to-morrow,
but let that take care of itself.
All are proverbially hospitable, both to strangers and
acquaintances, never turning a hungry man away empty as
long as a scrap to eat remains in camp, but they are wasteful
and improvident.
TRADING. 205
August 23d. But few articles could be obtained iu barter
from these Indians, as they were so scantily supplied even
with essentials, but what they had and would part with, was
readily taken up by different persons in the command, con-
spicuous among whom was a full blooded Choctaw, a team-
ster, whom we had hired when we passed through the nation,
a shrewd fellow, who had provided himself with quite a stock
of goods, and obtained a good supply of white buckskins,
bows and arrows, &c., in exchange for vermilion, looking-
glasses and calico.
In connection with this subject, I may remark, that the
present system of trading with the prairie tribes has a great
effect in checking all efforts of the government to prevent
depredations upon the frontier settlements, and in this way,
viz., a number of Delawares, Shawnees and Kickapoos, have
for several years visited these tribes, with such articles as are
most necessary to them, and which they will have at any cost,
and have made large profits by the traffic. The articles they
take are of small value, such as tobacco, paint, knives, beads,
calico and wampum ; and as the Indians have nothing of suf-
ficient value to exchange for them, except horses and mules,
they necessarily give them, and in large numbers. All these
animals are obtained by marauding upon the frontier, and
in proportion to the amount traded for, so is the correspond-
ing amount of depredation.
A good plan to prevent this, would be an annual donation*
18*
206 NOTES TAKEN.
by the government of such articles as are supplied by the
traders, with the understanding that this should continue so
long as no forays were made, and thereby depreciating the
value of these articles, would render the trading business no
longer profitable.
The tribes are accustomed to exchange presents in their
friendly intercourse with each other, and have no idea of
friendship under any other form; they also value the strength
of attachment by the amount of presents received, as an inci-
dent related by Captain Marcy will illustrate.
He once held a talk with a chief of one of the tribes, and
told him that the President of the United States was their
friend, and wished to live on terms of peace with them. The
chief replied, that he was much astonished to hear this, for
judging by the few trifling presents the Captain had given
his people, he was of opinion that the " Big Captain " held
them in but little estimation.
There is no doubt but that a small amount of money, annu-
ally expended in this way, would go far towards doing away
entirely with the many and frequently bloody depredations of
these people upon our poorly protected frontier.
August 24th. The Indians continued to leave in parties of
two or three, during the day, until all were gone except Ke-
tum-e-see and the invalid, who seemed to be great friends.
Neither had any thing to say, but lounged around under
the trees, evidently with some object in view, which greatly
excited our curiosity, but the weather was so intensely hot,
SQUIRRELS. 207
that we could take but little interest in any thing except the
means of keeping cool.
Our larder had been most bountifully supplied for a few
days past by a dragoon from Fort Belknap, who with a party,
an escort to an invalid officer, had been spending a week with
us, and discovered a colony of squirrels in a bottom on the
opposite side of the Clear Fork. They were a large species,
tawny on the belly and legs, and grey on the back, and so
numerous that he shot fifty-five in four days, (going out for an
hour at a time before the heat of the day,) which made into
a stew were deliciously delicate and juicy.
August 25th. Ke-tum-e-see disclosed his intention in
remaining this morning. He walked up to the Quarter
Master's tent, and demanded more beef and corn, but was
peremptorily refused, told that he must not expect any more,
and must now look out for himself. He walked off very
angry, and soon we saw his wives bustling round, preparing
him to leave.
Some of us went down to his bivouac, and found him
seated, looking as black as a thunder cloud, and taking no
notice of anything.
The invalid was at the same time made ready, and when
his slave had saddled and led up his horse, the women lifted
him on and fastened him with great difficulty, every move-
ment of the poor wretch being made with a groan.
Ke-tum-e-see's horse was then saddled and led up by his
wives, when he mounted, and led the way across the prairie,
208 NOTES TAKEN.
not deigning to turn his head or grunt out a. good bye, and
this was the last of the Camanches.
The knowing ones predicted trouble from this man, whom
they said was revengeful and treacherous. We kept a good
look out for him, however, and were constantly on the alert,
as we had been during our stay in that wild spot.
August 26th. The weather was still intensely hot
averaging one hundred and six degrees in the shade and as
the twenty-seventh was Sunday, the Captain determined to
commence his survey on Monday, the twenty-eighth; the
party was consequently busy all day in preparations, and
those of us who had the opportunity, kept as quiet as pos-
sible, as the most discreet plan under such a sun.
I thought we had done with the Camanches, but was
mistaken. Towards evening one made his appearance in the
distance, and proved to be Naroni ; but oh, how changed from
the Naroni of the council-fire. Dressed in an old torn vest,
breech-cloth and leggins, with a shabby straw hat upon his
head, his buffalo tail, medallions and uniform laid aside, the
little man looked smaller still, and miserably forlorn. He
had shot two bucks, and came to barter the carcases for corn.
Lounging around for a time, and finding no trade, he rode off,
and we saw no more of him.
August 27th. Sunday, intensely hot, and a general quiet
reigning in our camp.
Shifting their homes so constantly as these Nomades of
EXCITEMENT. 209
the plains do, they are very careless of offal about camp, and
in time of plenty this evil accumulates.
Our visitors left their temporary abode in a very disgusting
state half gnawed bones, and masses of cooked and raw flesh
lying around, which soon, under the sun's intense rays, made
us sensible of their locality.
As a sanitary measure, the Captain determined to break
up our camp on the morrow, and move farther up the stream,
and though we should miss the fine spring at this point, we
should be nearer the land to be surveyed, which would be
more convenient.
August 28th to September 4th, Last night was one of great
excitement in our camp. About midnight a general stam-
pede of our horses took place, and as Ke-tum-e-see had left
in such a bad humour, we concluded of course that the
Indians had stolen them, but immediate pursuit being
ordered, they were found in a ravine some miles off, much
frightened, but supposed to have been by wolves, large packs
of which had been prowling and howling around us every
night during our stay.
We had scarcely got quiet again, when a mounted dragoon
rode into camp, calling loudly for the captain, and exclaiming
that his comrade had been murdered at the rancho a mile
above us.
An officer, with the Doctor and a sufficient force, were sent
up, when it appeared that the express rider from Fort Bel-
knap to Fort Chadbourne, with a single dragoon as escort, had
210 NOTES TAKEN.
arrived at the raiicho about two o'clock, A. M., and not wishing
to disturb the inmates, were quietly tying up their mules to
feed them, as was their custom at this place, when a young
man, who was sleeping in the open air, being aroused, rushed
to the house and shouted Indians. The man inside sprang
out of bed, and seizing his gun, rushed to the door and fired
two shots, both taking effect upon the poor soldier and
mortally wounding him. He lingered insensible until eight,
A. M., and died. Our carpenter made a rude coffin, and we
buried him upon a hill side, along side of a dragoon who had
been killed sometime before, by the Witchitas.
This incident shows how exciting is frontier life, and how
constantly upon the alert the settlers must be against attack
or surprise.
"We moved camp six miles up the stream, on the same
prairie and to a similiar spot to the one we left, though the
water was not so good.
Major Neighbours returned to his home near San Antonio,
and took with him Conner, the two Jacobs and Jack Hunter
the Shawnee. We parted with the Major with regret, his
fund of anecdote of Indian life and customs, and his great ex-
perience on the frontier, imparted with so much affability and
enthusiasm had wiled away many an hour in camp and on the
march, and we missed him very much.
We remained at this point until the fourth of September,
the surveying parties actively employed in running the lines
STRIPED BASS. 211
and marking them, which was done by raising mounds at
intervals of half a mile along the line.
Our mess was well supplied with wild turkeys, catfish and
turtles, and a stream in the vicinity, a tributary of the Clear
Fork, afforded fine sport to anglers, with a fish called here a
trout, but which proved to be a species of bass, very game
and rising readily to the fly.
The soil was very fertile and the country around rich in
minerals, and affording a fine field for geologizing.
The rock was limestone, appearing on the south-west edge
of the prairie piled up in layers of rectangular blocks, looking
in the distance like a regularly built fortification.
212 NOTES TAKEN.
CHAPTEE XV.
CAMP ON THE CLEAR FORK TO CAMP ON THE LOWER BRAZOS.
Survey concluded. Leave for Fort Belknap. Description of country passed
over. Manner of designating Indian Camps by the Delawares. Arrive at
Fort Belknap. Indian Council held. Bear Head the interpreter. Descrip-
tion of Fort Belknap Lieut. Givens, a true sportsman. Puma chase.
March to Caddo Village Description of the Village. Jim Shaw and his
family. Grasses met with on our trip, Finish the Survey. Leave for home.
SEPTEMBER 4th to 10th. The surveying parties having con-
cluded their labours, we struck tents this morning and marched
to Fort Belknap, where we camped for a short time to procure
stores and prepare for future work in locating and surveying
lands for the Caddos, Jonies, Ah-nan-da-kas, To-wac-ko-nies,
Wichitas, and Ton-kah-was, who exist in this neighbourhood.
The country passed over abounded in game, and we passed
many deserted hunting-camps. Our Delawares displaying the
same sagacity, before observed upon, in designating the name
of the tribe, the number, and even the lodge of the chief.
Being curious to know what signs indicated these facts, I
asked one of them, when he gave me the following informa-
tion, which may be of great service to travellers on the prairie,
enabling them, when finding a deserted camp, to know the
friendly from the hostile Indians ; and thus, should they be
hostile, avoid them by marching in a different direction from
LODGES. 213
their trail. The Camanches make their lodges by placing
poles in the ground, in a circle, and tying the tops together,
forming a frame work in a conical shape, which they cover
with buffalo hides.
The Wichitas make their lodges in the same manner, but
do not unite the poles at the top leaving an opening for
the smoke, which when covered forms the frustrum of a cone.
The Kickapoos place the poles in a circle, but instead of
bringing them to a point at top, bend them so as to Jinite in
an arch with those opposite, thus making the lodge round on top.
The Delawares and Shawnees carry tents, but leave the
poles standing wherever they encamp.
The Cherokees have tents also, but build their fires differ-
ent from the Delawares ; they place the wood in the fire with
the sticks parallel, and burn from one end, pushing it into the
fire as it burns away ; whereas the others place each stick
pointing to the centre of the fire, like the spokes of a wheel.
We arrived At Fort Belknap on the seventh.
At a council held here, the Jonies and Ah-nan-dah-kas were
represented by Jose Maria, the Caddos by Ti-nah, the Wichitas
and Wacos by 0-che-rash and Ack-a-quash, and the To-wac-
ko-nies, by Utsiocks, Jose Maria a fine looking man about
sixty was spokesman. His speech was in substance as
follows !
" I know our Great Father has power to do with us as he
pleases ; we have been driven from our homes several times by
the whites, and all we want is a permanent location, where we
19
214 NOTES TAKEN.
shall be free from further molestation. We prefer being near
the whites, that we may be free from the depredations of the
wild tribes.
" Heretofore we have had our enemies, the whites on one
side, and the Camanches on the other, and of the two evils, we
prefer the former, as they allow us to eat what we raise, whilst
the Camanches take every thing, and if we are to be killed,
we would much rather die with full bellies ; we would there-
fore prefer taking our chances on the Brazos, where we can
be near the whites."
The captain told them that their Great Father would do
everything to make them happy and comfortable, if they would
accede to his wishes, settle upon these lands, and confine them-
selves to agriculture. They all expressed themselves ready
and willing to do so, and parted on very friendly terms.
The interpreter at this council was Bear Head, a famous
Delaware, employed by the Indian agent for these tribes as
guide and interpreter. His American name was Jim Shaw.
He had been adopted into the Caddo tribe, and become a
chief among them. He was the finest specimen of the Indian
I saw during the trip, about fifty years old, full six feet six
in height, as straight as an arrow, with a sinewy, muscular
frame, large head, high cheek bones, wide mouth, and eye
like an eagle his countenance indicative of the true friend
and dangerous enemy.
Fort Belknap, one of the most distant posts on this fron-
tier, is situated about a mile from the Brazos, upon an
PORT BELKNAP. 215
elevated, sandy plain, and though called Fort, is destitute
of any sign of fortification. One or two substantial stone
buildings have been erected, but the major part are in the
style called jacal huts built of logs stuck up on one end and
roofed in with long prairie grass, the quarters scattered over
a very extended surface^ affording a fine drill ground in front.
It was surprising how much the taste and ingenuity of the
officers stationed here had done to improve the few advan-
tages they had, and as usual the most unbounded hospitality
met us at their doors.
Major Steen of the 2d Dragoons commanded the post, and
had a garrison of two companies of dragoons commanded by
Messrs. Tree and Givins, and one company of infantry com-
manded by Major Paul, all in fine health and discipline, a
great credit to the officers, considering the arduous duties so
small a command must perform in such an exposed position.
Lieutenant Givins is an ardent sportsman, and by care and
judgment has succeeded in raising the finest pack of hounds
thirty-five in number on the continent, combining the
strong scent of the fox-hound, with greater speed than usually
found possessed by them, and the courage of the bull-terrier.
This result he effects by retaining only the swiftest and
healthiest, crossing the swift ones with those having a good
nose, taking care to keep the blood pure, and always running
his pack in company with a bull-terrier, whose example
teaches them courage, and also chasing wolves, which deve-
lopes that quality. The colors he retains are the blue, the
216 NOTES TAKEN.
yellow and the black the blue being the 'swiftest, the yellow
largest and strongest, and the black the most courageous.
He presented us with the skin of a full grown Texas lion or
Puma, six feet six from tip to tip, shot by himself, and very
perfectly preserved and stuffed.
The chase and capture of this animal was very exciting.
Lieutenant Givins was chasing a jackass rabbit, (which on
the high and open plains afford fine runs and excellent sport,)
when his dogs opened upon this trail, and by their animation
showed they were in pursuit of no ordinary animal. After a
hot run for a mile they bayed at the foot of a post oak, in
the crotch of which the lion was perched, looking as large as
a mule, and displaying a formidable set of teeth and claws.
While in this position he was shot through the body, and
making a long leap escaped into a thicket from which he was
soon routed by the dogs, and after a short run took to another
tree, where he was shot through the shoulder, bringing him
down, preventing him from climbing again, and allowing the
dogs a chance to worry him.
The whole pack, together with the horsemen, now closed in,
and just as he was in the act of crouching to spring, Lieuten-
ant Givins shot him in the right eye, which finished him.
In the fight, one of the dogs had his skull broken in by a
stroke of the lion's claws, and another had his leg torn open ;
but it was a right royal hunt, and a glorious triumph to the
Lieutenant's skill and good training.
The puma resembles the African lion in ferocity anj3
SOLDIER LIFE. 217
strength, having been known to carry off a full-grown hog.
It has a very ferocious appearance when in motion, crouches
at the approach of an enemy, and bounds off with great swift-
ness. It is seldom found as far north as Fort Belknap.
At Fort Belknap we saw the boy who was so cruelly
mangled by the Camanches when in company with Mrs. Wil-
son, an account of whose sufferings and escape was published
in the news of the day, during the fall of 1853.
This boy had been scalped and left for dead, but reviving,
managed to get into Fort Belknap, and, at the time we saw
him, promised to recover entirely, a new cuticle having formed
over his denuded scull, but an attack of dysentery carried him
off after a few day's illness.
Though these officers bear with the most Spartan spirit
their isolation and privations, and merge all other feelings in
their zeal and devotion to their profession, gathering around
them comforts and means for pursuits only to be acquired by
highly refined and enlightened gentlemen, yet I would that
some of our brawlers in Congress, and on the hustings, could
visit these remote posts, and see a soldier's life in its true
colours. A sense of shame and injustice would cause them to
blush for past misrepresentations, and not only shut their
mouths for the future, but open their eyes to the true light of
merit in these devoted men Their's is no carpet-knight ser-
vice, but a stern reality, which, calling forth all the energies
of their natures, tempers them with the Christian virtues of
forbearance and philanthropy forbearance towards their ene-
19*
218 NOTES TAKEN.
mies at court; philanthropy for the dusky children of the
plains, with whom they are brought daily in contact.
September 10th to 30th. Having obtained the necessary
supplies, we marched this morning at sunrise, and crossing the
Brazos, encamped at noon about fifteen miles below Fort
Belknap, where a selection had been made for the Indians of
a fine body of land with plenty of wood and water. Near this
point was a Caddo village of about one hundred and fifty
lodges. These were constructed by erecting a frame-work of
poles, placed in a circle in the ground, the tops united in an
oval form, strongly bound with withes, and thatched with long
grass. They were about twenty-five feet in diameter at the
base and twenty feet high, making a very comfortable shelter,
and looking in the distance like hay or grain stacks.
Each person had a bunk raised from the ground and covered
with skins, as a couch, and the fire was built in the centre, the
smoke escaping from the apex of the cone.
Our quondam acquaintance, Jim Shaw, came down and
encamped near us, remaining during our stay.
Jim led a Gypsy life, with his wife and two children, living
entirely in tents, but providing many comforts for them
unknown or unthought of by other Indians.
I visited his camp several times, and was surprised to find
some domestic appendages which I did npt expect to see with
them, moving as they did from place to place, viz., two cats
and some barn-yard fowls.
He seemed very fond of his family, and anxious that his
GRASSES. 219
children might go to school, and that he might soon be
settled on the Reserve, and have his farm and permanent
home. He had provided his wife with an excellent side
saddle, and in her tent I saw a musquito bar, a luxury
scarcely to be expected in an Indian camp.
Near our camp I found large quantities of the black mes-
quite grass, a very favourite grass with all who have tried it,
and I collected a stock of the seed, which I trust may stand
our climate, as from the avidity with which our animals eat
it, I am sure it would be a great addition to our northern
crops, either for pasture or fodder. It grows about as high as
timothy, and has a head on it like wheat. The grasses met
with are the white gramma, the blue gramma, three varieties
of the sedge, the buffalo grass, the bearded mesquite and the
black mesquite.
Of these, the buffalo grass would make a beautiful sod for
lawns, as its growth is very short and velvety, appearing
more like the thickest kind of moss than grass. I observed
that our horses eat it in preference to any other, even when
it was quite dry, and green succulent grass in its vicinity. I
could not procure any seed.
But few of the Indians came in to our camp, and those that
did were some of the chiefs named, and a few war captains.
Those we saw were not as fine looking nor as wild as the
Camanches, but very subdued and demure in their appear-
ance and demeanor.
The tract to be surveyed was located on both sides of the
220 NOTES TAKEN.
Brazos, which here was very crooked, the water very bitter,
and the bed of stream quicksand. The amount to be sur-
veyed, twelve square leagues, took of course a much longer
time than on the Clear Fork, added to which was a difference
in the kind of ground, a portion of this being quite moun-
tainous. The surveying party worked diligently, however,
and by the twenty-ninth had completed their labours, and on
the thirtieth, we struck tents and started on our homeward
trip by way of Fort Belknap.
JOHN CONNER. 221
CHAPTER XVI.
THE INDIANS OP THE COUNTEY.
Names of the tribes. John Conner, the Delaware Guide. Customs among the
Delawares. Traits of character with anecdotes illustrative. Description of
other tribes. Creek green corn dance and feast. Traditions among the
tribes. Incident of the Quapaws. The Camanches. Number and division.
Supposed origin. Religious ideas. Contempt for the whites. Treatment of
women. Customs among them. Their habits. Anecdotes of the Camanches.
General remarks.
THE Indians who subsist in the vast regions of the far
South-west, are the Camanches, "Wacos, Caddos, Jonies, Ah-
nan-dah-kas, To-wac-co-nies, Ton-kah-ways, Paluxsies, Mos-
calara, Apaches, Lipans, Kechies, Witchitas, Kickapoos,
*
Quapaws, Kioways, and Navajoes, all Nomadic and the
Creeks, Seminoles, Choctaws, Chickasaws, Shawnees, and
Delawares, who live in permanent homes. ^S
The principal settlement of the Delawares is on Caw river,
Missouri, but there is quite a number settled at old Fort
Arbuckle, in the Choctaw nation, from whence our hunters
and guides were procured.
John Conner, our quondam interpreter and guide, was a
very intelligent man, differing from the generality of Indians
in this respect, viz., he would not only give a direct answer to
a question, but also express a decided opinion and support it
by argument.
222 NOTES TAKEN.
As a general thing, Indians are non-committal, their eternal
" may be so," always giving them a hole to escape by.
From Conner, I learned a great deal about his tribe. The
Delawares are by far the most intelligent Indians in the
South-west. By a law of their tribe, a wife is sole owner of
all the property she may be possessed of at the time of her
marriage, and all she may afterwards accumulate. The
practice of purchasing a wife still exists among them. Poly-
gamy is also allowed, but is by no means common.
Conner told me that the price of a wife was " one horse,
five blankets, and goods so high," holding his hand about
a foot from the ground, a very indefinite quantity to be sure,
but of course understood to mean enough to satisfy the
parent. When the bargain is concluded the woman must
accede, there is no alternative, and hence much misery is
entailed upon families, feelings of dislike having carried
individuals so far as to cause them to commit murder*.
The bashful youths, get their mothers to make the bar-
gain for them, and Jackson, who had quarreled with his
wife before leaving home amused me very much by his
description of how he intended to get another when he
returned. He said, "my wife all the time mad, me go out
hunt, come back, he say, where you been devil ; all time
mad, den me say may be so you quit, den he go, now go home,
plenty of money, may be so my mudder he catch nudder
wife," throwing his arm out with the same motion he used
when throwing the lariat to noose his horse.
THE DELAWARES. 223
The Delawares are shrewd and fond of money, but only as a
means of gratification of either appetite or fancy, never
saving up any thing for the future. Stealing horses seems to
be a vice and propensity peculiar to all Indians, and the
Delawares are not an exception. Like all Indians, the labour
of planting corn, taking care of stock and all drudgery is
performed by their women.
They are very inquisitive but not credulous. Captain
Marcy once showed a Delaware a pocket compass. He was
much interested, watched the oscillations of the needle and
the effect of passing a piece of steel over the glass, then
walked away keeping his eyes attentively fixed upon the
needle and the invariable manner in which it settled down to
the same spot. He could not understand it, but with Indian
incredulity, remarked, " May be so he lie sometime."
The Captain, upon another occasion, endeavoured to
explain to one of them the magnetic telegraph, and told him
that by means of it a message could be sent one thousand
miles, and an answer returned in ten minutes. He seemed
much interested, but made no remark until the Captain told
him to explain it to a Camanche who was standing by. He
replied, " Captain me, not tell him dat ; me not believe it
meself."
Although reliable, when pledged to perform any duty, they
are like all Indians, tricky.
Captain Black Beaver who has been mentioned before,
and who lives at old Fort Arbuckle had been frequently in
224 NOTES TAKEN.
the employ of the government, and out with the officer who
relates this anecdote, but declining to go upon a late expe-
dition, he procured for the officer the services of John Bush-
man, another Deleware.
The officer told Bushman to inform his corps of hunters
and guides that they would be paid one dollar and a half a
day and one ration. Shortly after this, it was necessary to
have an interpreter to a wild tribe that was met, and Bush-
man acted.
After the talk he said to the officer, " You not tell me what
you give me." The officer insisted that he had told him'
one dollar and a half per day. He replied " Black Beaver he
say two dollar half one day." The officer told him that he
made his own bargains, and the government had no money to
squander, but that on condition of his acting as interpreter
he would increase his pay half a dollar.
On the return of the expedition, and after he was paid, the
officer asked him, "John, will you go again?" " No," was his
reply, " dat government he not got no money." It turned out
to be a plan of Black Beaver to share half of the two dollars
and a half, but did not succeed.
They are brave to a fault, never turning their backs upon
the foe. The following anecdote, related of this same Cap-
tain Black Beaver, is an illustration :
He accompanied a government expedition, some years since,
into the Camanche country, and being out upon a scout one
day, accompanied by a white man attached to the train, they
ANECDOTES. 225
were suddenly surprised by seven Camanches, who, circling
round them, made every hostile demonstration.
The white man, being mounted upon a fleet blood mare,
proposed to run for camp, when Beaver turned to him, and
cocking his rifle, said, very quietly, " May be so you run, may
be so I shoot you." He continued his determined manner
towards the Camanches, and the consequence was himself
and companion returned safely to the train
They are very proud of their race, and nothing insults
them more than to be called out of the name of Indian.
An officer was sent off with a detachment of our party, and
took Jackson as hunter and guide. To our surprise, the Indian
returned alone, looking very sour and angry. He said, " Dat
man he say you dog, you no hunt deer. Me no dog, me In-
dian ; me not can kill deer, me not see him close. Me kill deer,
me see him. Me not stay, me not dog, me Indian," raising
himself proudly to his full height and striking his hand
forcibly upon his breast. At heart they hate the white man,
but are shrewd enough to know that it is for their interest to
be friendly and faithful.
Their extraordinary powers of endurance and perseve-
rance have been frequently tested. An officer once ordered
one of them to follow a trail and see where it led to. He
returned shortly and said it led off into the prairie and to
no particular spot. He was told this was not satisfactory and
must follow it up and find out certainly. He left immediately
and for weeks nothing was heard of him, when no sooner had
20
226 NOTES TAKEN.
the command arrived at the first settlement than he made his
appearance, and told the officer that the trail he ordered him
to follow, terminated there, having with indomitable perseve-
rance followed it several hundred miles through that wild
country, subsisting upon what he could kill, but determined
to obey orders to the letter.
Their sagacity in detecting and describing signs in the
prairie I have before remarked upon, and it appears to be intui-
tive and peculiar to the Indian. In crossing a trail one day, one
of them picked up a blade of grass that had been crushed,
and said that the trail was two days old, when to all appear-
ance it was perfectly fresh ; subsequent events proved he
was correct. At another time, the attention of one of them
was called to some tracks in the sand, looking like the
impression made by the toe's, foot and heel of a bear, he
im mediately pointed to some blades of grass hanging about
ten inches over the marks, and explained that when the wind
blew, the blades were pressed over, and their oscillations
scooped out the light sand in the form seen.
These traits, besides their wonderful powers of judging of
country and knowledge of Indian character and habits,
render them invaluable on the frontier, and it would be
well for the government to attach a few to each company of
troops engaged in this service, thus enabling them to operate
to much greater advantage against the prairie tribes.
The Shawnees live on Little River, a tributary of the
Canadian. They assimilate to the Delawares, and inter-
GREEN CORN DANCE. 227
marry with them, the same traits of character being observ
able.
The Seminoles (under Wild Cat, of Florida-war memory)
live on the Rio Grande. The Choctaws and Chickasaws
have been already described, and the Creeks live on a
Reserve bounded on the north by the south shore of the
Arkansas.
Conner described to me the Creek green corn dance and
feast, which he said is a religious ceremony with them. As
soon as the corn is edible, the different villages assemble, and
after some preliminary ceremonies, begin to swallow large
quantities of a decoction of a species of lobelia, called among
them the '' Devil's shoe-string"' This brings on violent
vomiting and purging, until the whole stomach and bowels
are cleansed, when they proceed to gorge themselves with
green corn to satiety, and the quantity consumed is according
to him enormous. They then sleep, and afterwards com-
mence the green corn dance, which lasts until all are worn
down with fatigue ; a singular custom and one scarcely to be
imagined even among savages.
These six tribes all live in houses, and cultivate the soil to
a greater or less extent, in a majority of cases barely suffi-
ciently so for a support.
The Caddos, lonies and Ah-nan-dah-kas, numbered about
seven hundred and fifty warriors, women and children : speak
the same language and intermarry. They have a tradition
that they issued from the hot springs of Arkansas, and from
NOTES TAKEN.
that went to Red Eiver near Natchitoches, and finally to the
Brazos.
Of the To-wac-o-nies there were fifty-one men, sixty-three
women and fifty-five children.
The Wacos numbered sixty-five men, eighty-eight women,
and seventy-two children.
These five tribes were living in great harmony, had nume-
rous herds of horses and mules, all stolen from the whites,
and at some of their temporary straw villages raised corn,
beans, squashes and melons. They were all of pure Indian
blood, and though their women were said to be far from
chaste, they did not mingle with white men.
As far as could be ascertained, there were eighty Witchita
men, one hundred and twelve women, and one hundred and
twenty-two children.
They are most arrant horse thieves and scoundrels, and
have given more trouble to the settlers in Texas than any
other tribe. They have a village upon Eush Creek, a tribu-
tary to the Washita, a kind of rendezvous for them, from
which they make constant marauding expeditions.
The Kickapoos live on the Washita near Fort Arbuckle ;
are very famous hunters, and somewhat less savage, though
with ardent propensities for horse-stealing. The Paluxsies
are but a mere remnant, wandering from place to place in a
destitute and squalid condition. They number about sixty as
a maximum. The Tonkaways have a tradition that their pro-
WOLF DANCE. '229
genitor came into the world by the agency of a wolf, and
commemorate the event by the wolf dance.
This dance is conducted with the greatest secrecy, and
it is only by the most urgent solicitation that spectators are
admitted to this curious scene.
Upon entering the dance lodge a long, low building made
of poles and thatched with grass about fifty performers
were observed, all dressed in wolf skins, so as perfectly to
represent the animal. They went around on all fours, howled
and made other demonstrations peculiar to the wolf. After
going around awhile they all stopped, and one smelled the
earth at a particular spot, howled and began to scratch. A
general scratching then took place, and pretty soon they
unearthed a genuine live Tonkaway, who had been interred
for the purpose. As soon as he was dragged out a general
council was held, when the Tonkaway addressed them thus,
" You have brought me into the world and I know not what
to do for a subsistence ; it would have been better to let me
remain as I was. I shall starve in this world." After
mature deliberation they put a bow and arrows into his
hands and told him he must do as the wolves do, rob, kill
and wander from place to place, and never cultivate the soil,
and this they have done ever since.
The Apaches and Lipans are very numerous, fierce and
warlike. They are more generally supplied with fire-arms
than other tribes, and are in a state of constant hostility to
the whites.
20*
230 NOTES TAKEN.
The Kechies numbered about one hundred warriors, and
the Quapaws only thirty-five.
All these tribes use the horse in war and in the chase,
supply themselves with both horses and mules by stealing,
and always have a good supply.
The Quapaws, a small remnant of the once powerful Arkan-
sas, are an illustration of the rapid degeneracy and neces-
sarily final disappearance of the Indian. Once called by
way of distinction "the fine men," and complimented as
the most distinguished warriors, for having conquered the
powerful Chickasaws, at the time the most numerous and
warlike among the tribes, they are now reduced to a hand-
ful of squalid half starved beggars, soon to be lost en-
tirely or merged in some other tribe.
An incident is related of one of their encounters with the
Chickasaws, which shows the once great magnanimity of a
nation now so near annihilation.
The Chickasaw chief thought most prudent to make a pre-
cipitate retreat in consequence of having no powder, which
when told to the Quapaw chief, he determined that they
should be put upon an equality with his band, and ordering
all his warriors to empty their powder horns into a blanket,
made an equal division and sent one-half to his enemies ; the
fight began, and ended in a signal defeat of the Chickasaws.
The Camanches and Kioways are the most numerous
tribes in the South West, have similar habits, but do not
THE CAMANCHES. 231
speak the same language nor do the Kioways roam as far
south as the Camanches.
The Camanches are the " lords of the plains." They are
the most warlike and powerful, and number over twenty
thousand. They are separated into three grand divisions ;
the Northern, Middle and Southern, and these sub-divided
into bands commanded by separate chiefs. They suppose
that their forefathers came from a country towards the setting
sun. They acknowledge a supreme ruler and director, whom
they call the Great Spirit ; but in their devotions appeal
directly to the sun and earth, saying that one is the great cause
of life, and the other the receptacle and producer of all that
sustains life ; accordingly when they eat or drink, they sacri-
fice a good portion to the Great Spirit, saying that otherwise
he would be angry, and bring upon them ill-fortune. They
say that they cannot worship God, he is too far off, but they
can worship the sun, who is between them and the Supreme
Being. They entertain an inherent dislike for the whites and
are very suspicions of their motives in visiting them. Some
of their chiefs have visited Washington, and returned with
strong impressions of the strength of the whites, but the most
of them believe the Camanches to be the most powerful
nation in existence, and any opposition to this idea only sub-
jects the relator to ridicule and want of confidence. Captain
Marcy relates a conversation he overheard between a
Camauche and a Delaware, in which the latter endeavoured
to prove to the Camanche that the earth was round, and
232 NOTES TAKEN.
that it revolved round the sun. The Camanche indignantly
asked if he took him for an idiot, that any man could see that
the earth was perfectly level by only looking off, over the
prairie, and moreover his grandfather had been to the west end
of it, where the sun went down behind a wall. The Delaware
continued to describe to him other things he had seen among
the whites, all of which the Camanche attributed to some
necromancy or spell put upon him by them, and only deigned
to reply, by repeating " Hush, you fool."
An intelligent Chickasaw once visited them and endeavoured
to impress upon one of them the benefits that would result to
them if they would cease their wandering life, and learn to
read, write and cultivate the soil ; that the whites had taught
his people and they had become a happy people. The
Camanche replied that he would willingly agree to be taught,
but that the whites were such great rascals he could not trust
them, nor consent to be taught by them ; that if the Choctaws
and Chickasaws would send out men to teach them, they would
excuse those wishing to learn from war and hunting, but that
he must think there were very few, if any, honest white men ;
showing that he entertained bitter hostility towards us.
The Camanche men are of middle stature, light copper-
colored complexions, and intelligent countenances, but the
women are short, crooked-legged, and far from good-looking.
The men are grossly licentious, treating female captives in a
most cruel and barbarous manner ; but they enforce rigid
chastity upon their women, every dereliction from which is pun-
MARRIAGE CUSTOMS. 233
ished by cutting off the tip of the nose, as an indelible mark of
shame. Their women are looked upon as slaves and beasts of
burden, and every degrading service that can be inflicted upon
them falls to their lot, yet strange to say they seem contented,
and submit without a murmur. They are not prolific, a woman
seldom having more than three children, which if males, are
nurtured with great care, whilst the females are abused and
often beaten unmercifully.
When a man wants a wife, he goes to the head of the family
(who, according to their laws, is either the father, or if he is
dead, the son who has most distinguished himself in war or
hunting, even if he should be a younger son) and lays down
before him such goods as he thinks will be acceptable, and then
sits down at some distance to await the result. After smoking
a pipe, the goods are examined, and if acceptable, the girl is
led out and handed over. For her there is no alternative,
and repugnance often occasions " liasons" with former lovers.
Should an elopement take place, in such cases the
husband and his friends follow until they overtake the
fugitives, when formerly the man was put to death, but now
they compromise by purchase, the husband takes horses
until he is satisfied, the wife remains the property of her
choice, and all return to the village contented.
The old men get possession of all the young girls they can,
and make a profit out of them in this way, viz : a young man
will pay a large bonus to be admitted as a member of the
family and allowed to marry, after which, besides the bonus,
234 NOTES TAKEN.
part of all that he obtains in war or hunting, becomes the
property of the old head of the family ; they often liberate
prisoners on the same conditions.
Young girls are not reluctant to marry very old men, if they
are chiefs, being sure of always having something to eat, if
there is anything in camp, the chief always having first
choice.
A shrewd trick related of Mo-ko-cho-pee a deceased chief
of the Southern Camanches amused me very much. The
old fellow was one of a party that visited Washington, and
was much interested with what he saw, and wished to travel
generally through the States, but finding this required money,
he returned to his tribe determined to accumulate sufficient
to pay his expenses on the grand tour. Whenever any of
his band which they often did, after returning from a foray,
would bring him coins to ask the value, he would always tell
them it was best to throw them away, as they were worthless ;
knowing they would follow his advice, he would watch closely
where the coins were thrown, and going out secretly, secure
them. In this way, it was found when he died, that he had
accumulated a very large sum of money.
In trading they are careful to have a good price fixed for a
herd of horses and mules, by displaying the best stock first,
when all the rest are expected to be taken at the same price.
They also prefer a variety rather than quantity, even though
the goods may not be so valuable.
They never travel twice upon the same trail, and on leaving
WAR PARTY. 235
a camp, separate into small parties, each pne taking a differ-
ent route, and arriving at some appointed place. They eat
nothing but meat, and are called among the other tribes
" the buffalo eaters."
Always travelling upon an empty stomach, they ride fast
and far, then eat enormously, and afterwards sleep imme-
diately, when they are again ready for the road.
No young man is admitted into the ranks of the braves
until he has stolen a number of horses and mules and taken
scalps, the consequence is that parties will go off and begone
sometimes two years, and it is these who commit the most
horrid atrocities upon the plains.
They require no equipments on these expeditions but their
horses and weapons, subsisting upon what they find on their
route.
When a chief wishes to go to war, he mounts on horse-
back, holding erect a long pole with a red flag tipped with
eagle's feathers attached, and rides through the camp singing
his war-song. Those who wish to go fall in, and after going
round for a while they dismount, and the war-dance com-
mences. This routine is gone through with several days,
until sufficient volunteers are collected. Each warrior
provides his own horse and equipments, and they manage to
mount themselves upon white or cream-colored horses if
possible, which they paint all over in the most fantastic
figures imaginable.
The whole thing is voluntary, but one who behaves
230 NOTES TAKEN.
cowardly is disgraced, nor do they return until the wish to do
so is unanimous. Should the expedition prove unsuccessful
they separate into small parties, and on their way back to
their tribe, rob and kill whenever an opportunity offers, as it
is considered disgraceful to return empty handed ; they also
shave their horses' tails and put on mourning for a long time.
If it is successful, they send a herald ahead to announce their
arrival, when great preparations are made to receive them,
the old women set up a shout of exultation when they
appear, the scalp dance commences, and is performed with all
the ceremonies.
When a Camanche warrior dies, he is buried upon the top
of the highest hill near camp, with his face to the East, his
war-horse is killed and his weapons burnt up, his other
animals having their manes and tails shaved close, and the
women have to cut their hair close, as a symbol of mourning.
For a long time after the decease the relatives and friends
assemble morning and evening to cry, and howl and cut
themselves with knives. This ceremony takes place outside
the encampment, and lasts sometimes a month. They bury
immediately after death, not permitting the body to remain
above ground any longer than necessary to prepare the
grave.
When a young warrior dies, they mourn a long time, but
when an old person dies, they mourn but little, saying that
they cannot live forever, and it was time they should go.
They believe all go up to a place above, where they are
MOURNING. . 237
happy, that they are permitted to visit the earth at night,
but must return at daylight.
The Osages and other northern tribes have the same
custom of howling at the death of friends, with this addition ,
that presents are distributed to the mourners ; many there-
fore come to howl in expectation of getting a present.
Jim Shaw told me that he knew one old woman who kept up
howling so long, that one of the friends of the deceased asked
her what she wanted, and what she howled for, she immedi-
ately said for a horse, which was given her, and she became
silent. He also told me that the practice of cutting them-
selves, was done in many instances in order to promote tears
by the pain.
The Caddos howl when in want and distress, saying that
the Great Spirit will hear and assist them if they cry to him>
an untutored and primitive idea of prayer.
Whilst Major Neighbours was with the Tonkaways, a band
of forty Camanches, headed by Mo-ko-cho-pee, came into
camp, and were very exacting in their demands, ordering the
Tonkaways to take care of their horses, and get them some
supper, which was immediately done, and at the same time
forty of their best looking girls were assigned to their guests.
The Major endeavored to get: on good terms with the chief,
told him he was Indian agent for Texas, and that the people
of that State desired to keep peace with all the Indians, and
especially with the Camanches.
The chief replied, that the whites were great rascals, but
21
238 NOTES TAKEN.
he believed the Major to be a very clever fellow, and he
particularly admired the coat he wore, whereupon the Major
pulled it off and gave it to him. Another then admired his
vest, another his pantaloons, another his boots, and so on to
his cravat and stockings, thus completely denuding the Major
of a new outfit he had made in Washington, and leaving him
in his shirt. He says, however, that naked though he was,
he laughed heartily at the grotesque appearance of these
fellows, strutting about, each with some portion of his ward-
robe upon his tawny figure. They were so much pleased with
his generosity, that they insisted upon his going along with
them, and told him that if he would join their horse-stealing
expedition, they would adopt him into their tribe, thinking
he might prevent them from depredating, he went with them.
A few days afterwards, they came to the rancho of an old
Mexican, where the Major applied for some beef for them,
telling the Mexican that he would see him paid ; the old man
refused unless the money was paid beforehand, when the chief
told him that he wanted two beeves, and if they were not
forthcoming in half an hour, he would burn his rancho and
kill his stock, it is needless to say the beeves were handed
over. The Major remained a few days longer with them, but
getting tired persuaded them to let him go. This anecdote
illustrates how completely the Camanches have ruled in the
plains, the terror of the other wandering tribes, and the
scourge of the frontier settlements, their reign it is to be
hoped is at an end.
SIMILARITY TO ARABS. 239
In roaming over the plains of the South-west I was struck
with their similarity to the steppes of Tartary and the deserts
of Arabia, but not more so than with the resemblance of the
inhabitants of both.
The Nomades of the old world and the wild Indian of the
prairie have no permanent abiding place, but where their
lodges are pitched there are their homes. Their respective
governments are patriarchal, sanctioned by the masses, and
guided by the counsels of the elders. They never cultivate
the soil, but subsist upon plunder and the chase. They are
alike in their attachment to the horse and expertness in horse-
manship. Coinciding in their views of the rights of property,
they consider stealing from strangers as perfectly legitimate,
are the greatest marauders on earth, and he who is most
expert and successful is the greatest among them.
In minor and domestic customs they are identical. Polygamy
is allowed, they sit cross-legged upon mats, are very fond of
tobacco, and saddle, bridle, and mount their horses from the
right side, they also eat with their fingers.
The estimation in which a successful robber is held, is illus-
trated by an anecdote of an old chief, who said he had four
sons who were a great comfort to him in his decliniug years,
as they could steal more horses than any young men in the
tribe.
The favourite horse of the wild Indian is his constant com-
panion, and it is when mounted and going through with his
war-exercises that he shows to the best advantage. In the
240 NOTES TAKEN/
saddle from boyhood to old age, he acquires such skill and
dexterity as to realize the appearance of the famed Centaur
of mythology. Throwing himself entirely on one side of his
horse, he will discharge his arrows with the utmost rapidity
from beneath the animal's neck, whilst at full speed, shielding
his person by the animal's body, and regaining his seat with
no effort except the muscles of the leg.
The bow is their favourite weapon, and being placed in the
hands of the boys at an early age, they acquire extraordinary
proficiency, rendering them not only successful in the chase but
formidable in war. At short distances, they will frequently
throw an arrow entirely through the huge carcass of the
buffalo.
With a shield made of untanned buffalo-hide, they protect
themselves from this weapon in war, fastening it upon the
left arm, so as not to interfere with the free use of the hand,
and performing their feats of horsemanship ; equipped in this
way, with the addition of a war-club, made of a heavy stone,
grooved in around the centre to receive a withe bound with
buffalo-hide.
Brave to a fault, they always fight in the open prairie,
charging boldly up to their enemies, discharging their missiles
and advancing and retreating with great rapidity.
Though kind and hospitable to strangers, and fraternal in
their intercourse with each other, they are implacable in their
hatred, and any insult offered can only be atoned for by blood.
They believe in amulets and charms, and in dreams the
REMARKS. 241
vapour-bath is usdti both for healing diseases and as a pre-
paration for young men who wish to assume the rank of
warriors.
They have no idea of Christianity, nor have missionaries
ever visited them, offering a wide field for those philanthropists
who are now sending the blessings of the gospel to distant
lands : here is a people at our very doors, to whom we may
atone in this way, in some measure, for the wrongs they have
suffered at our hands.
Their present and former modes of subsistence being
rapidly on the decline, it becomes an interesting question
what is to become of these people. The views of the govern-
ment, in this expedition, would ameliorate their condition, but
their inherent dislike of the white man and his customs, are
the great barrier to its success, and of three extremities
my opinion is, they will adhere to their present life, and
finally disappear entirely they must either work, steal, or
starve; stealing being more congenial, they will continue
to follow it until repeated chastisement accomplishes their
destruction.
21*
242 NOTES TAKEN.
*
" CONCLUSION.
October 1st. We were now about to separate, the excite-
ment of the trip was over; the object of the expedition was
attained, and we were all heartily tired and anxious once more
for the comforts of home and the society of friends.
We had been fortunate in not losing a man by sickness or
casualty, and in this respect had great cause for congratu-
lation after the great privations suffered, and the extent of
country passed over.
Leaving the train in charge of the subalterns to march to
Fort Arbuckle, the Captain, Doctor, and myself, passed ra-
pidly over the road to Fort Smith, where we arrived on the
fifteenth, when the Captain and myself procured a convey-
ance by land through Arkansas and Missouri, and arriving
at Jefferson City on the twenty-fourth, the first of November
found us both at our respective homes, after a six months
absence, and thus ended my tour on the Prairies.
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muslin, per dozen 2 25
ESPEEANZA ; or, the Home of the Wanderers.
By Miss ANXE BOWBN, beautifully illustrated with fine engravings on tinted paper
By WAITT, 384 pages, 12mo., muslin 84
This is one of the most interesting books of the kind ever written for the young.
It contains the adventures of a Family who had the misfortune to be cast
on the Coast of South America, who, after many thrilling, perilous and
amusing incidents, while travelling inland and crossing the Andes, finally
settled in a wild and desolate region. It is also very instructive, contain-
ing many curious facts from Natural History, Botany, &c.
3UCTJSIO BOOKS-
Winner's Collection of Music for the Violin, containing 80 pages of the
most popular music of the day, arranged in the easiest and best manner,
entirely in the first position, each, 30
Winner's Complete Method for the Violin, containing full and complete
instructions for that instrument, with progressive exercises carefully arranged,
and a large collection of the latest music, each, 30
Winner's Approved Accordeon Method, on an entirely new plan, con-
taining the rudiments of Music, Scales, and Exercises, by which a person can
learn to play music in any key, whether written for the Piano, Violin or Flute,
each, 30
Winner's Popular Method for the Flute, containing Instructions for the
Instrument, Exercises, and a large variety of beautiful Music carefully arranged,
among which are Quadrilles from some of the best Operas, each, 30
*** The above Four Works contain the largest collection of new and popular
Music ever before published and arranged for the several instruments; the
Music in each book is different, they contain
Twelve Sets COTILLIONS, arranged from beautiful Opera Airs, Ethiopian Songs,
&c.,&c.
Eight sets POLKA QUADRILLES, the prettiest and most popular hi use.
Three sets MAZOURKA QCADRILLES.
Two sets SCHOTTISCHZ QUADRILLES.
5 c
HAYES & ZELL'S CATALOGUE OF BOOKS.
Twenty-eight of the latest and most fashionable POLKAS.
Thirty Waltzes, Twenty Schottisches, Sixty Reels, Jigs, Hornpipes, and upwards
of 200 Miscellaneous pieces, such as Ballads, Quicksteps, Mazourkas, Gallops*
Ethiopian Airs, &c., &c., all of which are suitable either for the Violin or
Flute.
Music paper.
ALBUMS AND AUTOGRAPH BOOKS.
Cap 4to., assorted kinds, with fine steel Engravings, each, 1 25
Double thickness , 2 00
Autograph Books, each 75, 1 12, 1 50
Albums, Demy 4to., assorted kinds, fine colored plates 3 75
Do. Engravings, 3 37
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