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 Uf^I^«A«Y
 
 \ 
 
 LONDOiN IN 1856.
 
 LONDON 
 
 [Temple Bab.] 
 
 By peter CUNNINGHAM, F. S. A. 
 
 LONDON : 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
 
 By the same Author, 
 
 LONDON, Past and Present; Being an Alphabetical 
 
 Account of all the Remarkable Places connected with Historical 
 and Antiquarian Associations, in and xeak Loxdox, containing 
 Notices of the 
 
 The Wards and Chubches of 
 
 London. 
 Residences of Bemareablb Mbk. 
 Streets Remarkable fob bomb 
 
 Event. 
 Burial Places of Eminent Indivi- 
 
 duals. 
 
 Old Inws and Tatbrns. 
 Houses of the Old Jsobility. 
 Places of Entertainment. 
 Old London SiiiHTS. 
 Ancient Theatres and Crosses. 
 Ho&TELS of Church Dignitaries. 
 Privileged Places for Debtors. 
 Old London Prisons. 
 
 Second Edition, with an Index. Post Svo, \6s. 
 
 " When we perceive the amount of orig;inal research and curious reading 
 which the author brings to bear on the subject, his precise arrangement and 
 scrupulous accuracy, then it is that we feel constrained to say that we have 
 already had books enough of loosely compiled anecdote, and that 
 Mr. Cunningham has in this Handbook laid the foundation of what we really 
 want about London— something systematised, defined, and ascertained." 
 
 Gentleman's Magazine. 
 
 WESTMINSTER ABBEY ; its art, architecture, and 
 
 ASSOCIATIONS. 16mo, 1». 
 
 In Preparation, 
 
 HANDBOOK TO THE ENVIRONS OF LONDON.
 
 ADVEETISEMENT 
 
 TO THE FOURTH EDITION. 
 
 ■ — ♦ — 
 
 In my advertisement to the third edition of this 
 work, I observed " that I had endeavoured to place 
 myself in the position of a well-informed guide 
 seeking to give a stranger iii London every requisite 
 information respecting lodgings, eating-houses, places 
 of amusement, &;c ; of one whose aim it had been to 
 point out those features of the metropolis best worth 
 seeing, with the way in which they might be seen to 
 the best advantage." 
 
 In this new edition I have sought to carry out 
 the same intention ; have made many additions and 
 corrections ; and, as far as it was possible, have 
 brought up all useful information to the day of 
 publication. 
 
 For other particulars, as well as for a more de- 
 tailed and historical account of antiquarian London, 
 and of streets and places no longer existing, I must 
 refer the reader to the " Handbook for London, Past 
 and Present." 
 
 PETER CUNNIXGHAK 
 
 Victoria Road, Kensixgton, 
 May 13, 1856.
 
 CONTEXTS. 
 
 PASS 
 
 . Introdvctoey IIixts axd Suggestion's . ix 
 
 II. Palaces of the Soveeeigs axd Household Offices 1 
 
 ui. HorsES OF THE Prikcipal Nobilitt axd Gextby . 8 
 
 IV. Paeks axd Pcblic Gardens 26 
 
 v. Houses of Paeliamest 36 
 
 VI. The Thames axd its Bridges, Thames Tuxxel, Pool 
 
 AXD Poet of Loxdcx 42 
 
 VII. GOTERXMEXT OFFICES 40 
 
 VIII. COJTMERCIAL BUILDIXGS AXD DoCKS Gl 
 
 IX. Markets 73 
 
 X. Breweries » . 77 
 
 XI. "^atee Compaxies 7S 
 
 XII. Sewerage 79 
 
 XIII, TOVTEE OF LOXDOX 81 
 
 XIV. Churches 94 
 
 XV. Cemeteries 132 
 
 xvr. Courts of Law axd Justice 136 
 
 XVII. Ixxs of Court axd Chaxcery 141 
 
 xviii. Prisoxs, Pexitextiaries. axd Places of Executiox, 147 
 XIX. Permaxext Free Exhibitioxs . , . • • 1j1
 
 viii CONTENTS. 
 
 FACB 
 
 XX. Theatres akd Places of Amusement . ... 177 
 
 xxr. Learned Institutioxs 183 
 
 XXII. Colleges and Schools 193 
 
 XXIII. Hospitals and Charitable Institutions . . . 205 
 
 XXIV. Club Houses . ' 217 
 
 XXV. The City and the Citizens 225 
 
 XXVI. Eminent Persons born in London 241 
 
 XXVII. Eminent Persons buried in London .... 242 
 xxviii. Houses in which eminent persons have lived . . 246 
 
 XXIX, Streets, &c., (houses unknown or not standing) in 
 
 WHICH EMINENT MEN HAVE LIVED. . . . 250 
 
 XXX. Places and Sites connected with remarkable 
 
 EVENTS 251 
 
 XXXI. Out-door Monuments and Public Statues . . 255 
 xxxii. Principal Thoroughfares, Squares, and Lanes . 257 
 XXXIII. Index 307 
 
 Hyde Park 28 
 
 St. James's Park 30 
 
 Regent's Park 33 
 
 The New Houses of Parliament 37 
 
 Bank of England, and its various Offices for Divi- 
 dends, &c 61 
 
 TovrEB of London , ... 83 
 
 "Westminster Abbey 97 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral 113 
 
 British Museum • 153 
 
 Chje-Map of London at the End.
 
 INTRODUCTORY HINTS AND 
 SUGGESTIONS. 
 
 1. Situation. — 2, Population. — 3. Statistics of Consumption, &c. — 4. 
 Political and Municipal Divisions. — 5. Social Divisions — the West 
 End. — 6. The Citv. — 7. Great Thoroughfares running East and 
 West. — 8. Ditto running North and South. — 9. Railway Stations. — 
 10. Ho^v to see London quicklv- — 11. How to see London leisurely. — 
 12. Its Six great Ai-chitectural Centres.— 13. The Parks.— 14. The 
 Silent Highway and its Bridges. — 15. A Sail from '• the Pool' to 
 Gravesend. — 16. A Sail from Hampton Court to Westminster 
 Bridge. — 17. General Hints to Strangers. — IS. Cah.s. — 19. Omni- 
 buses. — 20. Letters. — 21. Where to Lodge. — 22. Where to Dine and 
 Sup. — 23. Theatres and Operas. — 24. Places at wliich Panoramas 
 and Miscellaneous Exliibitions are shown. — 2.5. Performances of 
 Interest to the Musician. — 26. Objects of Interest to the Painter 
 and Connoisseur.— 27. To the Sculptor. — 2S. To the Architect and 
 Engineer. — 29. To the Antiquarian. — .30. Places and Sights which 
 a Stranger must see. — 31. Remarkable Places near London which 
 a Stranger should see.— 32. Laws relating to Foreigners.- 33. News- 
 papers. — 34. Geology and Soil. — 35. Studios of the Principal Artists. 
 — 36. Contemplated Metropolitan Improvements. 
 
 T ONDOX, tlie Metropolis of Great Britain and Ireland, is 
 situated upon the River Thames, about fifty miles from 
 its mouth ; the northern and lai'ger portion lying in the 
 counties of Middlesex and Essex, the southern in Surrey and 
 Kent. By the Metropolis Local Management Act of 1855 
 (18 & 19 Vict. c. 120) the Metropolis is held to include the 
 cities and liberties of London and Westminster, the boi'ough 
 of Southwark, and the paiishes, precincts, townships, and 
 places mentioned in a Schedule attached to the Act, in-
 
 X § 3. CONSUMPTION OF VICTUALS. [The Stranger 
 
 eluding among others the extreme points of Hampstead, 
 Islington, Stoke Xewington, and Hackney to the north ; 
 Sti-atford Le Bow, Limehouse, Deptford, Greenwich, Wool- 
 wich, Charlton, and Plumstead to the east ; Camberwell 
 and Streatham to the south ; and Kensington, Fulham, 
 Hammersmith, and Putney to tlie west. 
 
 § 2. The population of London, according to the last 
 census (1851), was 2,362,236. 
 
 § 3. The Metropolis is supposed to consume in one year 
 1,600,000 quarters of wheat, 240,000 bullocks, 1,700,000 
 sheep, 28,000 calves, and 35,000 pigs. One market alona 
 (Leadenhall) supplies about 4,025,000 head of game. This, 
 together with 3,000,000 of salmon, irrespective of other fish 
 and flesh, is washed down by 43,200,000 gallons of porter and 
 ale, 2,000,000 gallons of spirits, and 65,000 jnpes of wine. 
 To fill its milk and cream jugs, 13,000 cattle are kej^t. To 
 light it at night, 360,000 gas-lights fringe the streets, con- 
 suming, every 24 hours, 13,000,000 cubic feet of gas. Its 
 arterial or water system supplies the enormous quantity of 
 44,383,328 gallons per day, while its venous or sewer system 
 cames off 9,502,720 cubic feet of refuse. To warm its people 
 and to supply its factories, a fleet, containing upwaxxls of a 
 thousand sail, is employed in bringing, irresi^ective of what 
 is brought by rail, annually 3,000,000 tons of coal. The 
 smoke of this immense cjuantity of coal (and at a time when 
 it was considerably less than at present) has been often 
 traced as for as Eeading, 32 miles distance, where, at times, 
 it was so dense that the elder Hei-schel was unable to take 
 observations. To clothe its multitudes, Ave find, by the 
 "London Directory," that there are some 23,520 tailors, 
 28,800 bootmakers, and upwards of 40,000 milliners and 
 dress-makers ; whilst the domestic servants amount to an 
 army of 170,000. By the colossal proportions of these 
 detached statistical fragments, we are enabled to judge of 
 the vast extent of this mighty city ; as, by the sight of the 
 gigantic granite hand in the British Museum, the imagina- 
 tion speedily builds up the towermg statue of the ancient 
 Egyptian god. 
 
 § 4. The first and most natural action of a stranger, upon his 
 first visit to London, is to consult a Map — just as he scans
 
 in London.] § 4, MUNICIPAL DIVISION. § 5. WEST END. si 
 
 naiTOwly the face of a new acquaintance. Let the reader, 
 therefore, open the Clue Map at the end of this volume, 
 wliile I desci'ibe to him its main di^•ision3 and characteristic 
 featui-es. 
 
 The City of London proper is that space which anciently 
 lay within the walls and liberties, having for its base the 
 N. bank of the river Thames, with its W. line extending to 
 Middle Temple-lane, where, crossing Fleet-street at Temple 
 Bar (the only City barrier remaining), and Holbom at South- 
 ampton-buildings, it afterwards skirts Smithfield, Barbican^ 
 and Finsbury-circus on the X., crossing the end of Bishops- 
 gate-street "Without ; and then, piu^suing its way southward 
 down Petticoat-lane, across the end of Aldgate-street, and 
 along the ]\Iinories, it finally reaches the Thames at the 
 Tower. This portion of Modern London sends four Members 
 to Parliament, possesses a corporation, the oldest, lichest, 
 and most powerful municipal body in the world, and is 
 divided into 108 parishes, of which 97 are called "Without, 
 and 11 "AVithin," the walls. The population of the City in 
 1851 was 127.869, and the number of its inhabited houses 
 14,580. 
 
 The City of We^fininster (now swallowed up in London) 
 possesses no municipality, and though far more pop\ilous 
 than "the City," containing 24,755 inhabited houses, and 
 in 1851, 241,611 inhabitants, sends only two members to 
 Parliament. Its E. line coincides v/ith the W. line of the 
 City of London. From its Tottenham-court end to its 
 subui'ban extent at Kensington Gardens, it is bounded tO' 
 the N. by Oxford-street; and on its far W. side, crossing 
 the centre of the Serpentine in Hyde Park, it reaches the 
 Thames at Chelsea Hospital. 
 
 The Jive Borouylis, viz., Marylebone, Finsbuiy, Tower 
 Hamlets, South wark, and Lambeth, return each two members- 
 to the House of Commons. The first three lie north of the 
 Thames, the last two south of the Thames. 
 
 § 5. The social and fashionable divisions of London differ 
 materially from the municipal and parliamentaiy divisions. 
 Thus, the social centre of Modern London is Temple Bar ;
 
 xii § 5. TYBURNIA. — BELGRAVIA. [The Stranger 
 
 tlie commercial centr-e the Bank of England ; and the cab 
 centre Charing Cross. That part of Loudon which radiates 
 from Hyde Park Corner includes the mansions of many of 
 the nobility, the leading Club-houses, many well-inhabited 
 streets, the most fashionable square in London (Grosvenor- 
 square), and two new districts, called in fashionable circles 
 Tijhurnia and Belgravia. 
 
 Tyhurnia, or the northern wing, is that vast city, in point 
 of size, which the increasing wealth and population of 
 London has caused to be erected, between 1839 and 1850, on 
 the green fields and nursery gardens of the See of London's 
 Estate at Paddington. Built at one time, and nearly on one 
 principle, it assumes in consequence a regularity of appeai-ance 
 contrasting strangely ^\it\l the older portions of Modern 
 London. Fine squares, connected by spacious streets, and 
 houses of great altitude, give a certain air of nobility to 
 the district. The sameness, however, caused by endless 
 repetitions of '' Compo " decorations, distresses the eye, 
 and puzzles the resident in London nearly as much as it 
 does the stranger. Tyburnia is principally inhabited by 
 professional men, the gi-eat City merchants, and by those 
 who are undergoing the transitional state between com- 
 merce and fashion. Its boundaries may be said to be the 
 Edgeware-road on the E., Bayswater on the W., Maida-hill 
 on the N., and Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens on 
 theS. 
 
 Belgravia, or the southern wdng of the "West End, a creation 
 of the last twenty-five years, '26-52, is built on land belonging 
 to the Marquis of Westminster, bounded by Grosvenor- 
 place on the E., Sloane-street on the W., Knightsbridge on 
 the N., and by Ebury-street on the S. E. This space in- 
 cludes Belgrave and Eaton-squares, whose houses, palatial 
 in character and size, denote the high social position of 
 their occupants. Regularity and largeness of proportion 
 are the leading characteristics of this fashionable neighbour- 
 hood. 
 
 Contiguous to Belgravia lie Broinjjton and Chelsea. 
 Brompton, lying low, and the air being moist and warm, is 
 the resort of consumptive persons — it is the Torquay, in
 
 in London.] § § 5, 6. TTBURNIA. — BELGRAVIA. — THE CITY, xiii 
 
 short, of the Metropolis. The once iniral Chelsea is crowded 
 with poor. Close to Belgravia on its south-eastern side lies 
 Westminster proper, like the beggar at the rich man's 
 gate. Private liberality has lately attempted to cure the 
 plague spot by the erection of three new churches, and the 
 formation of a spacious street (Victoria-street) through its 
 very centre. Malaria and disease prevail in AYestminster 
 proper, the drains lying beneath the level of the Thames 
 at high water. 
 
 To the N".E. of Tybumia lies the Regent" s Parle district, 
 extending from the noi'th side of Oxford-street to Camden 
 Town and Somers Town, and including Marylebone proper 
 (with its 375,000 inhabitants), and the still well-inhabited 
 Portman, Manchester, and Cavendish-sqiiares. Here, with 
 a few solitary exceptions, dwells Middle Class London. 
 From this neighbourhood, fashion, in its westward course, is 
 fading fast. Still further E. we come to the Bloomslury and 
 Bedford-square district, with its well-built houses and squares, 
 erected between 1790 and 1810, and, till the gi-eat removal 
 towards the west in 1828, a much better frequented neigh- 
 bourhood than it is in 1854. This portion of the Metropolis 
 is chiefly occupied by la^N'yers and merchants ; its noble 
 mansions no longer holding, as formerly (between 1796 and 
 1825), the rank and fashion of the To\\'n. Somewhat E. (and in 
 the same Bloomsbury and Bedford-square district) we recog- 
 nise the architecture of the era of Anne, in the capacious 
 dwellings of Great Ormond-street and Queen-square, now- 
 given up for the most part to lodging-house keepers ; and. 
 still stepping eastward, are traces of the continuation 
 from Great Queen-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields, of that west- 
 ward march which fashion has taken within the last 150 
 years. 
 
 S. of Eegent's Park proper is the Covent Garden and Strand 
 district; with the exception of streets running at right angles 
 from it to the Thames, principally occupied by shops and 
 lodging-houses, and west of it is the Leicester-square neigh- 
 lourhood, chiefly inhabited by foreigners. 
 
 § 6. The principal streets in the City of London (New 
 Cannon-street excepted) are built in the style that prevailed
 
 Xiv § 6. THE CITY. [The Stranger 
 
 between 1666 and 1800; diug}^ brick, except wherG recent 
 Compo has covered its age, predominating everywhere. The 
 streets for the most part are narrow and inconvenient, as 
 is observable in all w^alled cities where space was precious ; of 
 picturesqueness there is none (unless we consider the interioi'S 
 of many of the palaces of the old merchant princes, now con- 
 verted into counting-houses and chambers) ; and, with the 
 exception of the naodernised portions, of convenience or of 
 beauty there is just as Httle. Wren, under whose direction the 
 City was rebuilt after the Great Fire in 1666, originally 
 intended to have laid out the streets in a regulai" manner : 
 the principal thoroughfares radiating from St. Paul's -with a 
 ■width of not less than 70 feet. But economy carried the 
 day against his magnificent design, and the City arose as 
 ■we now see it. To the antiquary it presents few features 
 of interest, to the architect only the churches built by 
 Wren and his pupils, and one or two more modem public 
 buildings. ^ 
 
 "The City" is, par excellence, the head-quarters of the trade 
 and commei'ce of the country. Hei'e everything is brought 
 to a focus, and everj^ interest has its representative. In 
 Lincoln's Inn and the Temple the lawyers find all the 
 quiet and retirement so congenial to then* pursuits. In 
 the gi-eat thoroughfares retail trade is triumphant. In the 
 naiTow, dim lanes, which scarce afibrd room for carnages 
 to pass each other, the wholesale Manchester warehouses 
 are congregated. In Thames-street and its immediate vicinity, 
 commerce is i-epresented by its Custom House, its Corn 
 Exchange, its Coal Exchange, and its gi'eat ■^diarfs. The 
 fish and foreign fruit trades dwell also in this thronged 
 thoroughfare. In Lombard-street the money power is 
 enthroned. In Houndsditch the Jews most do congregate. 
 In Paternoster-row and its neighbourhood booksellers are 
 located. • St. Paul's forms the religious element of this 
 strange compound of interests. The Exchange and the Bank, 
 placed side by side, might be likened to the two ventricles 
 of the great City heai't ; and grouped around from first floor 
 to garret in almost every house, are the offices of the Brokers 
 who form the medium of cnculation of the world's wealth. 
 Yet this spot, teeming by day •v\'ith its hundi'eds of thousands,
 
 in London.] § 7. GREAT THOROUGHFARES EAST & WEST. XV 
 
 its streets gorged by carriages, cabs, and carts, presents at 
 night, and still more so on a Sunday, the spectacle of a 
 deserted city. The banks closed, and the post gone, — the 
 railway carriage, the omnibus, and the steam-boat, carry the 
 clerks to the outskirts, and the merchants and principals 
 to their villas and mansions at Clapham, Hackney, or the 
 West End. 
 
 That space without the limits of the City 'proper which 
 includes the N. bank of the river Thames as far as Blackwall, 
 is occupied by docks, wharfs, and warehouses, and inhabited 
 by slop-sellers, ciimps, and sailors. Everything here has 
 refex'cnce to maritime affairs. N". of this district lies Spital- 
 jields and Bethnal Green, through which the Eastern Counties 
 Railway reveals to the traveller the crowded dwellings of 
 the silk-weavers, readily distinguishable by the large garret 
 windows, through which their hand-looms may be seen at 
 work. The once rural Islington, to the N., is mostly inhabited 
 by the middle classes, and those immediately beneath them 
 in the social scale. It lies high, and is considered one of the 
 healthiest portions of the metropolis. The densel}' i^eopled 
 district of Clerkenwell (west of Islington and north-cast of 
 Lmcoln's-Inn-fields) is inhabited by some of the best paid 
 and best informed artisans in London. 
 
 If we cross to the Surrey side of the Thames, we come to 
 the boroughs oi SoutJavarl: and Lamhcth, the former, including 
 Bermondsey, the great seat of the tanning trade ; the latter 
 j)rincipally occupied by manufactories. Shadwell and Rothcr- 
 hithe are the head quarters of sailors, and are but meanly 
 built and inhabited- — indeed the whole of the right bank of 
 the Thames at London is much inferior in wealth and import- 
 ance to that portion lying on the left or jVIiddlesex shore ; 
 and to "the AVest End" it is a "terra incognita." 
 
 § 7. To enable the visitor to find his way from point to j)oint, 
 his best plan will be to study the Clue Map at the end of 
 this volume, and fix in his mind the direction of the great 
 thoroughfares. These generally run from E. to W., and 
 from X. to S. The great E. and W. lines of streets are 
 those wliich lead from either side of Hyde Park to the 
 Bank, and then fork off again, and terminate in the remote
 
 xvi § 8. MAIN THOROUGHFARES NORTH & SOUTH. LThe Stranger 
 
 E. of the metropolis, forming a design somewhat in the 
 shape of an hour-glass. 
 
 To the N. of these lines sweep the New and City-roads, 
 which run like a boulevard almost completely round the 
 N. and E, of the metropolis. On the S. side of the 
 rivei', Stamford-street and the Yoi-k-road follow for a mile 
 the curve of the river, and, together with the New Cut and 
 its continuations, intersect the different roads leading from 
 the bridges. The visitor will remember that Temple Bar is 
 the social centre of Modern London. 
 
 § 8. In the West End, the main thoroughfares running 
 K. and S., are the Edgeware-road, leading from tlie W. end of 
 Oxford -street to St. John's-wood; Portland-place and Regent- 
 street, running from Regent's Park to Charing-cross; Hamp- 
 stead and Tottenham-court-roads, connecting Hampstead 
 with Holboi-n. The City is brought into connection with 
 its northern suburbs by Gray's Inn-lane, which inins from 
 Holborn-hill to the New-road ; by Aldersgate-street and 
 Goswell-street, which lead in a direct line from the Post 
 Office, to the Angel at Islington ; and by Gracechurch- 
 street, Bishopsgate-street, Norton-folgate, and Shoreditch, 
 connecting Kingsland and Hoxton vrith London Bridge and 
 Southwai'k. 
 
 On the Southwark and Lambeth, or Surrey side of the 
 Thames and the Metropolis, the roads converge from the 
 six bridges to the well-known tavern, the Elephant and 
 Castle, which is about equidistant from all of them 
 (excepting Vauxhall Bridge) ; from the tavern they again 
 diverge, the Kent-road leading to Greenwich, and the 
 Kennington and Newington- roads leading to Brixton and 
 Tulse Hill, outskirts of London, studded with the villas and 
 cottages of men " upon 'Change."
 
 ia London.] § 9. RAILWAY STATIONS. Xvii 
 
 The streets of the Metropolis, about 2800 in number, would, 
 if put together, extend 3000 miles in length. The main 
 thoroughfares are travei-sed by 1200 omnibuses, and 3500 
 cabs (besides piivate carnages and carts), employing 40,000 
 horses. 
 
 In addition to these noisy and thi'onged thoroughfares, we 
 have what has been called "the silent highway" of the Thames, 
 running through the heart of the Metropolis, and traversed 
 continually by steamboats and barges. The steamboats take 
 up and set down passengers at the different landing-places 
 between Chelsea and Blackwall, Greenwich and Gravesend, 
 and, when the tide serves, nm as high as Hampton Cornet, 
 calling at all the intennediate landing-places on the 
 banks. 
 
 § 9. The connection of London with the provinces is 
 kept up by the railways which diverge from it in seven 
 du'ections : — the Great Western Railway fi'om its station at 
 Paddington ; the Xorth-"\Vestern from Euston-square, by the 
 ]!^ew Road; the Great Northern from Kings-cross; the 
 Eastern Coimties from Shoreditch ; the Blackwall from Mark- 
 lane ; the South- AYesteru from Waterloo Bridge ; whilst the 
 London Bridge station has five separate lines supplying with 
 railway communication the counties of Kent, Surrey, and 
 Sussex. By means of these different lines, along which the 
 telegi'aph is laid down, the Metropolis is put in instant 
 connection with upwards of a hundx'ed of the chief cities and 
 towns of the United Kingdom; the wires converging from 
 the different stations to the Central Telegraph Ofl&ces at 
 Lothbury (East), and Charing-cross (West), where messages 
 are received and transmitted night and day. From London 
 Bridge whai'f and from Tower-stairs, the various Conti- 
 nental steam-boats start. From the foi'mer especially, the 
 Margate and Ramsgate boats start, making, in the season, 
 excm-sions on the Sunday to those places and back the 
 same day. 
 
 § 10. Ha\-ing put the stranger in possession of the "bearings" 
 of the different streets, it will be as well to show him how he 
 can comprehend in the quickest way the most remai^kable 
 features of the Metropolis. He can do this in no better 
 and more economical manner than by taking the box-seat on 
 
 6
 
 xviii §§ 10,11. HOW TO SEE LONDON &c. [The Stranger 
 
 an omnibus, and making friends with the driver. Let him take 
 for instance a Kensington omnibus, and go as far eastwai'd 
 as the Bank. In this manner he will make himself acquainted, 
 by the di-iver's help, with the chai'acterLstic features of Picca- 
 dilly with its noble mansions, and of the great thoroughfai-es of 
 the Strand, Fleet-street, and Cheapside. If he has a wish to 
 penetrate the far east, he can do so by taking a Blackwall 
 omnibus, but we cannot recommend the journey, as it 
 would hardly repay him for his time and trouble. The' 
 retui'n di'ive might be made by a Padding-ton omnibus, which 
 will take him through Holborn, New Oxford- and Oxford- 
 streets, as far as the Marble Arch at Cumberland Gate. A. 
 direct X. and S. section of the Metropolis might be viewed 
 by taking a '"'"Watei'loo" omnibus, which starts from the- 
 York and Albany Tavern, Eegent's Park, and piu'sues the 
 line down Regent-street, past Charing-cross, and so along the 
 Strand over Waterloo Bridge ; also by an '"Atlas" omnibus,^ 
 which traverses the same line as far as Charing-cross, and 
 then turns do\vn Whitehall, and goes along Parliament-street 
 across Westminster Bridge to the Elephant and Castle. These- 
 three routes, if followed up by an excursion on the Thames- 
 from Chelsea to Greenwich, would show at a rapid glance 
 most af the architectural features of the Metropolis, 
 
 § 11. For those who have ample time to examine the 
 public buildings, we would recommend a vralk from London 
 Bridge westwai'd to Trafalgar-square ; then an exammation of 
 Whitehall, Pall-mall, and Regent-street, forming the irregular 
 cross which springs from Trafalgar-square. By this raeans 
 the visitor Arill pass the six great centres of life and aix-hi- 
 tecture which distinguish the Metropolis, 
 
 § 12. The^?'6-^ of these great centres — London Bridge — ^is 
 the one a Foreigner natm-ally sees first, and it is the spot above 
 all others calculated to impress him most -^dth the importance 
 and ceaseless activity of London, The bridge itself, crowded 
 with an ever-moving stream of j^eople and vehicles, and 
 lined at the same time with the heads of curious spectators, 
 wedged as thickly as pins in a paper, all gazing upon the 
 busy waters below, is a curious picttu'e of the manner in 
 which the two currents of biisiness-men and sight-seers 
 are continually shouldering each other. On the other hand..
 
 in London.] § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. xix 
 
 the scene below is equally instinct with life. Above bridge 
 we see the stairs of the penny steam-boats^ landing and 
 taking in West End or Greenwich passengers, amid a perfect 
 din of bell-i'iuging and cloud of steam-blowing. Below bridge 
 we see the " Pool," looking, with its fleets of colliers moored 
 in the stream, like the avenues of a forest in the leafless 
 winter. The Custom-house, with its long columniated fa9ade, 
 and the Italian-looking fish-market at Billingsgate, also strike 
 the eye. The foot of the bridge, on either hand, is flanked 
 Avith great buildings — the Fishmongers' Hall, belonging to 
 one of the richest of the City companies; and with scarcely less 
 striking structures converted into hotels. Passing up Fish- 
 street-hill is seen, from base to summit, the Monument, erected 
 to commemorate the Great Fire — still the most beautiful and 
 pictui'esque of all the metropolitan cohimns, A little farther 
 on, William IV.'s statue, worked in granite, stands guard 
 at the entrance of King-William-street and Cannon-street, 
 leading thoroughfares opened since 1834. At the end of this 
 we approach our second architectural centre — the Bank of 
 England, a low, richly-adorned building — admirably adapted 
 to the purposes of its foimdation. The open space at this 
 point is surrovmded by several striking architectural eleva- 
 tions. The Royal Exchange, the Sun Fire-office, the Mansion- 
 house, and the tov/ers of the church of St. Mary Woolnoth, 
 mark the skyline in a most picturesque manner; nor can 
 the equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, in front of 
 the Exchange, fail to attract attention. The narrow passage 
 of the Poultry, by which Cheapside is reached, has no 
 feature of interest. Passing Iving-street, howevex*, the pseudo- 
 Gothic front of Guildhall, standing full in the light at the 
 end of a gloomy naiTow street, strikes one as picturesque 
 and perhaps noble, notwithstanding the viciousness of its 
 style; while in Cheapside the stately steeple of Bow 
 Ch\irch (Wren's finest steeple) never fails to arrest the 
 attention of the stranger. The comparative narrowness of 
 Cheapside, and the turn which it takes into St. Paul's-church- 
 yard, brings the visitor upon the Cathedral and Post-office, 
 om- third great centre of life and architecture. The Cathe- 
 dral is Wren's great masterpiece; the Post Office was built 
 by Sir R. Smirk e. 
 
 From St, Paul's along Fleet-street and the Strand, we 
 
 h 2
 
 XX § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. [ The Stranger 
 
 gi-adually see how the characteristic features of oue city 
 mingle with those of the other. la our way here we pass 
 uuder Temple Bar, and leave Somerset House (one of the 
 liead quarters of the Civil Service) on our left. The counting- 
 houses of the '-'City" (it is easy to observe) have slowly dis- 
 appeared, and the shops have a gayer and more miscellaneous 
 aspect. At last Charing-ci'oss is i-eached, and we recognise 
 at once our fourth architectural feature, the great West End 
 architectural centre, from which improvement has shot out 
 on every side. Standing on the raised jilatform beneath 
 the poi'tico of the National Gallery, we see before us the 
 rising towers of the Houses of Parliament, and the per- 
 spective of the leading Government ofl&ces forming a line 
 of street by themselves ; on the left hand is the beautiful 
 church of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, and on the right the 
 perspective of Pall-mall, with its splendid Club-houses. 
 Well might the late Sir R. Peel designate Charing-cross 
 as "the finest site in Europe." The square itself, with 
 its ugly fountains and its ill-proportioned column, will 
 require entirely remodelling before it can be worthy of its 
 position, and we have purposely turned our visitor's back 
 to the National Gallery that he may not be offended with 
 its meanness. Charing-cross may claim to be called the 
 centre of the arts, as the Bank is the centre of commerce. 
 
 Turning directly down Whitehall, we approach that 
 portion of Westminster devoted to the principal Government 
 offices and the Legislature ; on the right hand is the Ad- 
 miralty (distinguished by its screen and portico) from which 
 the fleets of England are governed ; close beside is the 
 Horse Guards, the head-quarters of the commander-in- 
 chief The long range of buildings still further on the 
 right, (refronted by Sir Charles Barry) consists of the Home 
 Office, the Privy Council Office, and the Treasury, all uuder 
 one roof, and the little narrow street forming a cvX de sac, 
 which tei-minates it, is the world-famous Downing-street, 
 containing the official residences of the Prime Minister, and 
 the Secretaries of State for Foreign and Colonial Affairs. On 
 the opposite side of the way is the Banqueting-house of the 
 oidfPalace of Whitehall, the masterpiece of Inigo Jones ; in 
 front of which King Charles I. was beheaded. 
 iV, The fifth great architectural centre of the Metropolis is
 
 in London.] § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. xxi 
 
 at the end of Parliament-street. Here the Chm-ch, the Law, 
 and the Legislature, are represented. The first in the noble 
 old Abbey, the second in the Coui'ts oflF "Westminster 
 Hall, and the third in the New Parliament Houses, whoso 
 towers, rising to a gigantic height, break in from point to 
 point \ipon the sight. This spot, indeed, might be considered 
 the intellectual centre of the Metropolis. Within so small a 
 space, the earth perhaps holds not so many distinguished 
 men amongst the h^-ing and the dead. 
 
 Eetracing our steps down Parliament-street we come to 
 "Waterloo-place, our sixth architectural centre, not inaptly 
 called the centre of social and political life. Here we are in 
 the heart of Club-land. Looking towards the Duke of York's 
 Column, which tenninates the view, we have on our right 
 hand the Athenaeum, chiefly frequented by literary men ; on 
 the left, and exactly opposite it, the United Service Club, 
 whose member are naval and military vetei'ans. Xext to the 
 Athenaeum, which stands at the commencement of Pall-mall 
 ■west, is the Travellers'. The Reform, which is observable 
 from its great size and from its Italian architectui'e, stands 
 next in order. To the Reform succeeds the Carlton, the 
 head-q\iai*ters of the Conservatives, a stately building, and 
 the last erected. The Oxford and Cambridge and the 
 Guards' Club houses complete this side of Club-land. 
 On the north, or opposite side, at the comer turning into 
 St. James's-squai-e, is the Army and Xavy Club. 
 
 At the bottom of St. James's-street stands St. James's 
 Palace, a dingy but pictm^esque old building full of historical 
 associations. Ascending the street, on the left hand side is 
 seen the Conservative Club, Arthur's, and Brooks's (the "Whig 
 head- quarters), whilst near the top is the once famous or 
 infamous Crockfoi-d's, now a tavern, and called " The "Well- 
 ington." '•' "White's" and "Boodle's," once fashionable political 
 Clubs, but now piincipally resorted to by elderly country 
 gentlemen, stand on the opposite side near the top. The 
 stranger shovdd endeavoiu' to procure orders (given by 
 members) to see some of these Clubs, especially the Reform, 
 famous for its central hall, and its kitchen planned by M. Soyer. 
 The staircases and apartments of the Carlton, Reform, and 
 Army and Xavy Clubs, are veiy beautiful. 
 
 Retm-ning to "Waterloo-place, after noticing for a few
 
 xxii § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. [Tlie Stranger 
 
 moments the noble park front of Carlton-teiTace which, 
 stands upon the site of Carlton House, the visitor should 
 ascend Regent-street. This street was built by IS'ash during 
 the regency of George IV., and has found admirers. A few 
 years since, a piazza covered in the footways on both sides of 
 that part of it called the Quadi-ant ; and though the double 
 curve of columns thus formed had a noble effect, their re- 
 moval has certainly contributed to the decency and cheer- 
 fulness of the neighbourhood. The lath and plaster style of 
 Nash's architecture in Regent-street has given rise to the 
 reproach that it cannot stand either wind or weather. Never- 
 theless, it is the brightest and most cheerful street in the 
 Metropolis ; and its sunny side, with its shops (many of which 
 are French) filled with elegancies of all kinds, especially 
 those pertaining to the female toilet, is one of the liveliest 
 promenades in the Metropolis between the hours of 3 and 
 6 o'clock in the afternoon. Portland-place, a wide monotonous 
 street, forms the contumation of Regent-street, and terminates 
 in Park-crescent, a fine sweep of houses on either side 
 forming the entrance to the Regent's Park, and called by 
 its architect, Nash, the key to Maiylebone. 
 
 When the visitor has well sui*veyed the routes I have 
 pointed out to him, and passed along New Oxford-street, 
 presenting an irregular pattern-card of almost every style, he 
 will have made himself master of the entu'e street architectvire 
 of London, 
 
 To comprehend at a glance the immense amount of busi- 
 ness done in London as a Port, I would suggest a walk 
 along Thames-street and Tooley-street, whose gigantic ware- 
 houses keep the thoroughfare in a perpetual gloom, and 
 whose cranes hold in mid air during the day the varied 
 produce of the world. The Custom-house quay, with its 
 long room; Billingsgate-market, the Coal-market close at 
 hand, St. Katherine's and the London Docks ; might all be 
 taken in the vralk. 
 
 § 13. The Paries of the Metropolis, not inaptly called the 
 lungs of London, are six in number, and chiefly in the West 
 End. St. James's Park, the Green Park, Hyde Park, and 
 Kensington Gardens, lie so close to each other, that one may 
 walk from Charing-cross, the very heart of the Metropolis, to
 
 iiiLondou.] § 13. THE PARKS. Xxiii 
 
 Bayswater, a distance of three miles, scai-cely taking one's 
 feet ofi" the sod. These thi-ee parks enclose London on 
 its W. side ; whilst Regent's Park lies to the N.W., Victoria 
 Pai-k to the X.E. ; and Battersea Park, now in course of for- 
 mation to the S.W. Besides these open spaces, which are 
 beautifully laid out, the ventilation of the Great Babylon 
 is in some degree provided for by its numerous squares, some 
 of them of large extent, and planted with trees ; and by its 
 Botanic Gardens, Cemeteries, and Nurseries; which, taken 
 together, occupy many hundred acres of groimd. The largest 
 square is Lincoln's-Inn-fields, but its extent will be lessened, 
 and its healthfulness much diminished, if the contemplated 
 removal of the Law Courts from Westminster to Lincoln's 
 Liu should take place, 
 
 § 14. Having traversed the principal streets, both architec- 
 tm-al and commercial, let us take boat with our visitor and 
 show him the river Thames thoroughfare of the Metropolis, 
 which displays, in a more complete manner perhaps than any 
 other, what London really is, both in extent and character. 
 Taking one of the twopenny steamers at Westminster Bridge, 
 he sees before him several specimens of that bridge architec- 
 tiu'e which has made London so famous. "Westminster Bridge, 
 imder whose shadow he for a moment rests, was bmlt in the 
 middle of the last century. It has long been in a dangerous 
 condition, and is about to make way for a new one of seven 
 arches, in keeping Avith the adjacent Houses of Parliament. 
 and erecting at a cost of £235,000. 
 
 The banks of the river on either side of Westminster 
 Bridge are, for some distance occvipied, by coal barges, mud- 
 banks, a few good houses, some mean whai'fs, and many still 
 meaner buildings. As we descend the stream, Hungerford 
 Suspension Bridge, starting on the ^Middlesex shore from the 
 Italian-looking Hungerford-market, next hangs its thread-like 
 chains across the widest portion of the Thames. Then is 
 seen the Adelphi-terrace, built by the brothers Adam — in the 
 centre house of which lived and died David Garrick. Then is 
 seen in contrast, Waterloo Bridge, with its nine arches, the 
 centre one having a span of 120 feet. This bridge, which is 
 perfectly level, and biult of the finest gi-anite, is certainly a 
 noble structm-e, and well becomes the fine facade of Somerset 
 'House, vrhich rises from a ten-ace immediately below it,
 
 xxiv § 14. THE THAMES AND ITS BRIDGES. [The Stranger 
 
 on its right hand, and extends 400 feet along the river. 
 Still farther down, on the same shore, the pleasant Temple 
 Gardens are seen on the left, gi^een and flourishing, amid 
 the surrounding blackness of the city. Blackfi-iars Bridge, 
 over -which is seen the stately dome of St. Paul's, is next 
 passed under ; then comes " the thick " of the City, on 
 the left bank, and the sky is penetrated by the spires of 
 numerous churches, indicating by their numbers, now quite 
 disproportioned to the spiritual wants of the very limited 
 resident population, the ancestral piety of London. South- 
 wark Bridge, built of iron, is remarkable for its central arch, 
 of 240 feet span. 
 
 London Bridge, the last or most sea-w'ard of the metropolitan 
 bridges, with its five granite arches crossing the Thames, 
 divides London into "above" and "below" bridge. "Above 
 bridge," the traffic of the river consists of coal barges, — 
 bright-coloured and picturesque Thames hoys, laden with 
 straw, — and the crowded penny and twopenny steam-boats, 
 darting along with almost railway rapidity. Immediately 
 the arches of London Bridge are shot, the scene is at once 
 changed. The visitor finds himself in a vast estuary, crowded 
 with ships as far as the eye can reach. All the great 
 commercial buildings of London lie on the left bank of the 
 Thames, "below" bridge. The Fish-market (Billingsgate), a 
 new structure, and then the Coal Exchange, are rapidly 
 passed one after the other. The Tower, squai^e and massive, 
 with its irregular out-buildings, and its famous Traitor's-gate, 
 may be said to terminate the boundai-y of the City. 
 
 § 15. The Pool commences just below London Bridge, where 
 the river is divided into two channels by the treble x-ange of 
 colliers anchored in it to discharge their cargoes — the city 
 of London deriving its chief income from a tax of Is, Id. 
 per ton, levied on coals consumed in the metropolis and 
 . its vicinity. Only a certain number of these dingy -looking 
 colliers are admitted into the " pool" at once, the re- 
 mainder waiting in " the lower pool," tmtil the flag which 
 denotes that it is full is lowered, when those enter that are 
 first in rank. The greatest order and regulai-ity in mai'shalling 
 these coal fleets is absolutely necessary to avoid choking 
 the water-way ; and as it is, so much inconvenience is expe-
 
 ia London.] § 15. FROM " THE TOOL " TO GRAVESEND. XXV 
 
 rienced, that it is in contemplation to excavate docks for them 
 in the tongue of land opposite Greemvich, called the Isle of 
 Dogs, A little below the Tower of London are the St. 
 Katherine's-docks, inclosed by warehouses, over which the 
 masts of the larger shipping are observable. The London 
 Docks succeed, and in connection with them are the famous 
 wine vaults, in which as many as 65,000 j)ipe3 of -wine can 
 be stowed. Just past the first entrance to these docks, the 
 steamer passes over the last land connection between the 
 two banks of the river. The famous Thames Tunnel lies 
 under the voyager's feet, and it is more than probable that 
 at the veiy moment he passes, light and life, music and 
 laughter, are going on below these waters which look so calm, 
 so dirty, and so deep ; for fairs and fetes, and even balls, are 
 matters of constant occiu-rence in the Tunnel, in the line of 
 arches not used as a public thoroughfare. On the opposite 
 shore is the Grand Svirrey Dock, covering a large area, 
 and devoted, together with the Commercial and Greenland 
 Docks, to the timber and corn trades. 
 
 A little below the Pool, where the river takes an abrupt 
 bend in its course at Limehouse-reach, is one of the entrances 
 to the West India Docks. These docks run right across the 
 base of the tongue of land called the Isle of Dogs, and open 
 into Blackwall-reach ; and the crowd of masts seen across 
 the pastvirage looks like a grove of leafless trees. 
 
 Deptford (on the right-hand as you pass down Limehouse- 
 reach) is a government dockyard and the seat of the 
 victualliug department, which every stranger should see. 
 There are always several ships of war, steamei-s and others, 
 lying off the wharf; and underneath its vast building sheds, 
 the ribs of some future merchant vessel are generally to be 
 seen gi'owing up under the busy hammers of the ship- 
 wrights. The steamer has scarce passed Deptford vrhen the 
 "Dreadnought" hospital-ship, the hulk of a 120-gun ship, 
 rears itself out of the water, affording a noble example of the 
 size and power of a first-rate man-of-war, in the days of 
 Nelson. This old ship stands as a kind of outwork to 
 Greenwich Hospital, whose noble cupolas and double range 
 of columniated buildings rise just beyond, a worthy dwelling 
 for our decayed old naval worthies, and a noble monument 
 of the genius of Wren. Few buildings are more picturesque
 
 XXvi § 15. FROM " THE POOL " TO GRAVESEND. [The Stranger 
 
 than Greenwich, as you descend the i-iver. The old iiTC- 
 gularly built town and the palace-like hospital are backed 
 by the lising gTOuud of Greenwich Park with its splendid 
 sweet-chestuut trees, and crowned by the Observatory, from 
 which place the Saxon race throughout the woi-ld marks its 
 longitude. The exact time is marked to the shipping below 
 by the fall, every day at one, of a large black ball, which 
 slides do'vsTi a mast surmounting the top of the building; 
 by this means the thousand commanders in the river below 
 have a daily opportunity of testing the acem'acy of their 
 chronometers.* 
 
 Below Greenwich the river for some distance is dull enough, 
 low fiat shores extending on either side, imtil Blackwall is 
 reached, with its Italian looking railway station, and its 
 quay, always in fine weather crowded with people. The 
 East India Docks, full of the largest class merchant ships, are 
 situated here. Still further down the river is ^Yoolwich 
 arsenal (a large government ordnance depot), which eveiy 
 visitor should see if time will allow him. The river below, 
 and nearly all the way to its mouth, lies between flat 
 marshes, over Avhich the ships at anchor and in full sail 
 appear sailing across the grass, as in a Dutch picture. 
 Gravesend, the last town on its banks, is at least 30 miles 
 from London; a description of it therefore will not fall 
 within our limits : nevertheless I would recommend an 
 excursion from London-bridge to Gravesend, affording as it 
 does at a rapid glance a notion of the vast extent of the 
 commerce of London. 
 
 The sailing vessels belonging to the port of London 
 average nearly 3000, and the steamers 350, giving employ- 
 ment to crews of 35,000 men and boys. The Customs from 
 this enormous mass of merchandise is upwards of eleven 
 millions sterling, or half the receipts from this department 
 for the whole country. The declared value of the exports 
 ia nearly of a like amount. 
 
 § 16. To see the Thames in all its pastoral beauty the 
 visitor should ascend the stream far beyond the limits of the 
 metropolis. The best possible way of seeing it is to take the 
 
 * A ball in coniraunication with Greenwich Observatory, falls every 
 day at oue, at the Electric Telegraph Office, Charing-cross'(West).
 
 inLondon.] § 16. HAilPTON COURT TO WESTMINSTER BR. XXvii 
 
 steamei* home after visiting Hampton Court (which he must 
 not fail to do, reaching it by the line of the South-Western 
 Railway). The windings of the river make the journey a long 
 one (two hom-s at least), but the lover of beautiful scenery and 
 literary and historical associations will not regard it as time 
 lost, as he will pass many places famous in song and history. 
 At Twickenham he Avill pass Pope's grotto (the house has been 
 entirely rebuilt), and Strawberry-hill, the sham castle of 
 Horace Walpole; Ham-house, an old mansion-house of the 
 time of James I., notorious as the house where the famous 
 *' Cabal" ministers of the reign of Charles II. used to meet. 
 Richmond Hill and Pai'k, beautifully wooded, crown the 
 prospect. The old palace of Sheen, celebrated in the early 
 reigns, yet shows some fragments, incorporated in a modern 
 house, the gi-ounds of wliich come down to the water, at 
 this spot crossed by Richmond Bridge, and ornamented by 
 an island planted with weeping willows. 
 
 Below Richmond, on the right hand side, runs Kew 
 Park, once famous as the Farm where George III. used to 
 play the gentleman farmer ; and on the left is Sion House, 
 the fine mansion of the Duke of Northumberland. Still 
 fui-ther down is the charming village of Kew, with its public 
 garden and palm-house ; Fulham succeeds, with the Bishop 
 of London's Palace, and on either hand, amid the most 
 verdant meadows and trees of the largest foliage, the resi- 
 dences of the gentry and of wealthy London merchants are 
 seen all down the river as far as Battersea, where its subm^bau 
 character commences. The Thames so far is compara- 
 tively clear, running over a gravelly bottom, and banked with 
 verdure on either hand. The swans, too, sailing about in 
 fleets, add to the beauty of the water. There are a vast 
 number of these stately bu'ds kept by the various City 
 Companies at a great expense : one company (the Dyers'), 
 epending 300Z. a-year upon their swans. 
 
 On the left bank, and close to Battersea Bridge, are 
 Cremome Gardens, the nightly resort in the season of thou- 
 sands who delight in dancing. Below Battersea Bridge, on 
 the I'ight hand, extends the New Park, now in course of 
 formation (a carriage drive and terrace running close beside 
 the water) ; and Chelsea Hospital, with its high roof, and the 
 Botanic Gardens, with, since 1854, a solitary cedar of Lebanon,
 
 XXviii § 17. GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. [The Stranger 
 
 terminate the oi^en character of the banks, which are below 
 this occupied with manufactories or with rows of houses. 
 At Lambeth the •s'isitor sees with interest the antique 
 towers of the Primate's Palace, and old Lambeth church, 
 recently rebuilt — all but the tower; and on the opposite 
 shore, the Penitentiaiy, covering a vast extent of ground, 
 and looking like a "cut down" bastile. In immediate 
 proximity to it is the new neighbourhood of Pimlico, which 
 has arisen A\'ithin the last five or six years, under the 
 hands of the late Mr. Thomas Cubitt (d. 1856), the leviathan 
 builder of the Belgravian portion of ^Yest-End London, 
 and originnliy a common ship -carp enter. 
 
 § 17. General Hints to Strangers. 
 
 London should be seen between May and July. 
 
 1^0 one is well known in London. Neighbours are un- 
 known to one another. The sole neighbourly anxiety of 
 No. 2 in a street, is that neither No. 1 nor No. 3 will set 
 fire to his house. 
 
 Thei-e is not a more striking sight in London than the 
 bustle of its great streets — the perpetually rolling tide of 
 people, carts, carriages, gay eqiiipages, and omnibuses, in its 
 great thoroughfares. 
 
 Saturday is the aristocratic day for sight seeing. 
 
 Monday (Saint Monday) is generally a workman's holiday. 
 
 Take the right hand side of those you meet in walking 
 along the streets. 
 
 The Electric Telegraph Office is at Lothbury, near the 
 Bank; there are branch offices at Charing-cross and at 
 Knightsbridge. 
 
 Never listen to offers of " smuggled " cigars in the street. 
 
 Beware of mock auctions at shops. 
 
 Avoid gambling houses or "hells." Gambling is illegal 
 in England, its professors are rogues and blacklegs, and 
 the police are instructed to make seizures of those found 
 playing. 
 
 Beware of drinking the unwholesome water fm'nished to 
 the tanks of houses from the Thames — good drinking water 
 may be obtained from sj)rings and pumps in any part of the 
 town by sendmg for it.
 
 in London.] § 17. GENERAI, HINTS TO STRANGERS. xxix 
 
 To find the direction of a '•' West-End friend " (who is not 
 in lodgings), consult Webster's Royal Red Book, price 3s, 6d., 
 which, however, only gives the names of private persons. 
 
 To find the direction of any professional man or trades- 
 man (possessing a house), consult The Post-office Directory, 
 which is at once an official, street, commercial, trades, 
 law, court, parliamentary. City, conveyance, and postal 
 du-ectory. The visitor may see it at any hotel or in any of 
 the better class shops. The names and livings of Clergymen 
 of the Church of England may be found in the annual 
 " Clergy List.^' 
 
 ■ The best London messenger is a well-sealed and clearly 
 directed penny-post letter. 
 
 Mr, is inadmissible as a written address to any one 
 
 above the class of a shopkeeper. 
 
 A B , Esq., 
 
 20, C Street 
 
 is the proper form. 
 
 Foreign money is not current in England, and any attempt 
 to use it will expose the traveller to inconvenience. It 
 should be at once exchanged on arriving. Always note 
 down the number of English bank notes ; if lost or stolen, 
 this precaution will be valuable. The hours of business, 
 during which all offices, counting-houses, &c., are open are 
 from 10 to 4. The proper hours for calling at private 
 houses are from 2 to 6 at the " West End." Intimate friends, 
 or those whom it is important to see personally, are not sure 
 to be found at home after 9 a.m. A letter of introduction 
 should be left in pei'son with a card, or at least delivered 
 with a card by a messenger, and not sent by post. 
 
 The dinner hour in England for the professional and 
 upper classes varies from 5 to 8 p.m. Guests should arrive 
 not later than a quarter of an hour after the time named, but 
 never a muiute before it. In England the gentlemen never 
 hand the ladies from tahle, but remain by themselves. The 
 hat should seldom — some say, never — be taken into the 
 dining-room, but left with the servants on entering. Money 
 is not given to strange servants. 
 
 When requesting permission to view any of the private 
 galleries or mansions, a foreigner had always better write a
 
 XXX § 17. GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. [The Stranger 
 
 polite note in the Frencli form and language, than in 
 English. Foreigners will find that the knowledge of the- 
 Fi-ench language is universally, and of the German not 
 rai'ely, diffused from the tipper classes downwards, especially 
 amongst females and young persons. In any case of gentle- 
 man-like or lady-like difficulty, address youi*self at once to 
 the most gentleman-like or lady-like persons present, in 
 Fi-ench or German. 
 
 At Her Majesty's Theatre (Italian Opei'a)^ and at the 
 Lyceum Theatre (Italian Opera), gentlemen are not admitted 
 imless in black or white neckcloths, black pantaloons, and 
 dress coats ; much annoyance will often be the result of 
 any attempted infringement of this rule. 
 
 There are some sights peculiarly national, which foreigners 
 should not omit to see whilst in London. 
 
 Races. — Epsom and Ascot are the great sights in this way; 
 go outside a four-horse coach, — the scene on the road is most 
 striking. As these are moveable entertainments, consult 
 your landlord for the days on which they take place. 
 
 Public Dinners, for various political, social, and charitable 
 objects, are always advertised, and any one may dine who 
 will pay for a dinner ticket, generally one guinea. Distin- 
 guished speakers, and sometimes good vocal mvxsic, are the 
 attractions. The English peculiarities as to " toasts," " cheer- 
 ing," "speeches," &c., may here be enjoyed to perfection. 
 
 Boat races and sailing matches on the Thames. — A steamer 
 generally accompanies the best matches, by advertisement, 
 and the cutter clubs, such as ''the Leander/' "the West- 
 minster," &c., each pulled by eight " crack " amateurs, may 
 generally be seen when it is high water in the evening, on 
 the upper part of the Thames, about Putney. 
 
 The Game of Cricl-et is best seen at Lord's Cricket Ground, 
 St. John's Wood Road, Regent's-park ; admission Is. The 
 principal "matches," such as "Kent" against " all England," 
 "Gentlemen" against "Players," "Oxford" against " Cam- 
 bridge," are genei^lly advertised. 
 
 Running Matches may be seen in the suburbs, now (1856) 
 chiefly on the Hounslow-road. At Copenhagen-fields, near 
 London, on the 12th Januaiy, 1852, Frost, the "Suffolk 
 Stag," ran 10 miles in 54 minutes 32 seconds. 
 
 Prize Fights are prevented by the police, and are now
 
 in London.] § 17. GENERAL HIXT3 TO STRAXGERS. xxxi 
 
 almost extinct. For all sporting subjects consult '•' Bell's 
 Life in London," a weekly paper, price 5d. Good wrestling 
 and boxing may be seen generally on Wednesdays at 
 Saville House, Leicester Square. 
 
 From spring to autumn, hunting is the rage — steeple- 
 chases in the spring. The "meets" are always advertised, 
 and often take place (especially those of the " Queen's Stag 
 Hounds,") close to the railway stations near London. 
 
 An English Trial hy Jury may be constantly seen at 
 the Central Criminal Coui-t (Old Bailey) in criminal cases ; 
 and at Guildhall and Westminster Hall. A shilling to a 
 doorkeeper will generally secure a good seat. 
 
 Be on your guard about the confusion in the nomenclature 
 of London streets, the street branch of the " Post Office 
 Directory"' recording the existence, in various parts of 
 the to-\vn, of 37 Kiug-streets, 27 Queen-streets, 22 Princes- 
 streets, and 17 Duke-streets, 35 Charles-streets, 29 John- 
 streets, 15 James-streets, 21 George-streets, besides numerous 
 thoroughfares with the common prefixes Robert, Thomas^ 
 Frederick, Charlotte, and Maiy. Anomalies also are very 
 common : — There are Xorth and South-streets which lie east 
 and west, and 10 East-streets and 11 West-streets, which point 
 to a sufficient variety of directions to box the compass. There 
 are as many as 2i " Xew-streets," and only 1 Old-street, though 
 some of the •'•' Xew " are old enough. Thei-e are no fewer than 
 18 York-places, 16 York-streets, 14 Cross-streets, 13 Crown- 
 courts, 19 Park-places, 16 L^'nion-streets, 10 Wellington-places, 
 10 Gloucester-streets, and 13 Gloucester-places. The suburbs 
 abound in provoking repetitions of streets, and terraces, 
 bearing the names of "'•'Victoria" and '"Albert" — idle com- 
 phments teasing enough to her Majesty's many subjects. 
 These -will now cease \inder the Metropolis Local Manage- 
 ment Act. 
 
 § 18. Obtain at any bookseller's, price l^., the Eed Book 
 of fares, published by the Metropolitan Police Commis- 
 sioners, ipursuant to section 6 of Act 16 and 17 Victoria, c. 
 33. These tables, in case of dispute as to fare, are 
 conclusive evidence of all the distances they contain. 
 The number of cabs in London before the reduction of 
 fares in 1853 was about 3500 — but the number is now con- 
 siderably less. Each cabman must eax-n ten shillings a day
 
 XXxii § 18. CABS. [The Stranger 
 
 before lie can clear Lis expenses or obtain a penny for him- 
 self The London public, it is calculated, spends 8G0,000Z. 
 a year in cab-hire. 
 
 If you are in a hurry, and want to catch a railway ti-ain, 
 call a Hansom-cab, promise the man a shilling above his fare, 
 and if he takes you in time, pay him the shilling. 
 
 The centre of London (for cabs) is Charing-cross. 
 Fares ai-e according to distance or time, at the option of 
 the hirer, expressed at the commencement of the 
 hiring ; if not otherwise expressed, the fare according to 
 distance. After eight o'clock in the evening, and before 
 six o'clock in the morning, no driver is compellable to 
 hire his carriage for a fare according to time. 
 Distance fares for two persons. — Sixpence, a mile or fragment 
 of a mile, not exceeding four miles (radius) from Charing- 
 cross. 
 One shilling a mile, or fragment of a mile, when taken 
 
 beyond four miles from Charing-cross. 
 Back -fare cannot be claimed. 
 
 The charge for stopping, is sixpence for every quarter of 
 an hovir completed. 
 Time fares for two j^ersons. — For any time within, and not 
 exceeding, one hour, 2s. 
 Sixpence for every quarter of an hour, or any part of 
 
 fifteen minutes not completed above one hour. 
 One shilling for every mile, or part of a mile, beyond four 
 miles (radius) from Charing-cross — if your cab is dis- 
 charged beyond such four miles. 
 Back-fare cannot be claimed. 
 
 When hired by time, the driver may be required to diive 
 at any rate not exceeding four miles an hour. When re- 
 quired to drive at a greater speed, he is entitled to claim 
 6d. a mile, or fragment of a mile, in addition to the 
 time fare. 
 Distance and time fares for more than txvo persons. — When 
 more than two persons are cai'ried in one cab, an addi- 
 tional sixpence is to be paid for every additional person 
 for the whole hiring. Two children under ten years 
 of age counted as one adult. 
 Luggage. — A reasonable quantity of luggage is to be carried 
 in or upon the carriage free of charge, except when
 
 iQ London] §§ 18, 19. CABS AND OMNIBUSES. xsxiii 
 
 more than two persons are carried inside, witli a greater 
 
 qviantity of luggage than can be carried inside, and then 
 
 2d. is to be paid for every package carried outside. 
 
 In case of any dispute between hirer and driver, the 
 
 hirer may require the driver to drive to the nearest 
 
 Meti'opolitan Police Court, or Justice Room, when the 
 
 complaint may be determined by the Sitting Magistrate 
 
 without summons ; if no Police Court or Justice Room 
 
 be open at the time, then the hirer may require the 
 
 driver to drive him to the nearest Police Station, where 
 
 the complaint will be entered, and tried by tlie 
 
 Magistrate at his next sitting. 
 
 Every driver when hired, is required to deliver to the 
 
 hirer, a card containing the printed number of the 
 
 Stamp Office plate on such carriage, or such other 
 
 words or figures as the Commissioners of Police may 
 
 direct. 
 
 In February, 1854, there were 121 cab-stands west of 
 
 Temple-bar, and 97 eastward — 39 of which were in the City. 
 
 The Metropolitan Police District (London without the City) 
 
 includes 175 standings for 1950 cabs. Piccadilly at its 
 
 three standings, (Apsley House, Devonshire House, and 
 
 Albany) finding room for 60 cabs. 
 
 § 19. Omnibus Routes in London lie princiiDally north and 
 south, east and west, through the central parts of London, to 
 and from the extreme suburbs. There are, it is said, as 
 many as 1200 different omnibuses running in and out of Lon- 
 don during six days in the week, employing neaidy 6000 
 persons. The majority commence running at 9 in the 
 morning and continue till 12 at night, succeeding each other 
 during the busy parts of the day every five minutes. Most 
 of them have two charges — fourpence for pai*t of the distance, 
 and sixpence for the whole distance. It will be well, how- 
 ever, in all cases to inquii-e the fare to the particular spot ; 
 wherever there is a doubt the conductors will demand the 
 full fare. If you leave any article either in a "bus" or cab, 
 apply for it at the Police Office, Scotland-yard.* 
 
 * A "Loudon General Omnibus Company" is (1S56) busy consti- 
 tuting tlie London Omaibuses on tlie Paris plan. 
 
 C
 
 XXxiv § 19. OMNIBUSES. [The Stranger 
 
 In one year (1st Sept., 1850, to 1st Sept., 1851) 2152 
 articles were deposited at the proper office by hackney- 
 coach drivers as found in hackney carriages. 
 
 The following are the main lines of the omnibuses : — 
 
 Inscribed " Brompton," rviu between Gunter's Arms 
 (Brompton), and the London-bridge Railway Station. 
 
 Inscribed " Putney," run between Putney, Brompton, the 
 Bank, and the London-bridge Piuilway Station. 
 
 Inscribed "Richmond," run between Richmond and the 
 Bank, fare Is. 
 
 Inscribed " Conveyance Company," run, (1,) between 
 Paddington and Hungerford-market (Charing-cross) ; (2,) 
 Paddington and Bank, either along Holboru or the New Road. 
 
 Inscribed " Hammersmith" or " Kensington," rim between 
 the Bank and those places. 
 
 "Without inscription, run in the same direction. 
 
 Inscribed "Bayswater," run between Baj-swater (via Regent- 
 street and Strand, also rid Oxford-street and Holborn), to 
 Whitechapel and to the Bank. 
 
 Inscribed " Kensal Green," run between the Green Man 
 and Still, Oxford-street, and Kensal Green Cemetery. 
 
 Inscribed "Favourite," run between Holloway and the 
 Houses of Parliament; also to London Bridge and the 
 Blackwall Railway Station. 
 
 Inscribed " Kilbm-n-gate," i-un between Kilbm'U and 
 London-bridge. 
 
 Inscribed " Clapham," run between Upper Regent's-cu-cus 
 and Clapham. 
 
 Inscribed "Atlas," run between St. John's Wood, and the 
 Elephant and Castle. 
 
 Inscribed " Hampstead," run from Hampstead to the 
 Bank ; fare, 6d. 
 
 Inscribed " Waterloo," run between the York and Albany, 
 Regent"s-park, and the Elephant and Castle. 
 
 Inscribed "Islington and Chelsea," run betv/een the Angel, 
 at Islington, and Sloane-square. Some go as far as 
 " Holloway." 
 
 Inscribed " Royal Blue," run between PimUco and Black- 
 wall, 
 
 Inscribed " Pimlico," run between Pimlico and the Bank. 
 
 Inscribed " Chelsea,"rim between King's-road, Chelsea, and
 
 in Loudon.] § 20. POST-OFFICE DEPARTMENT. XXXV 
 
 the Eastei^n Counties Railway Station, at Shoreditch : some 
 go as far as " Hoxton." 
 
 There are omnibuses without inscription, that run between 
 the Upper Regent' s-circus and the Bank. 
 
 § 20. Letters (for distances beyond the London delivery) can 
 be posted at the Receiving Houses throughout the Metropolis 
 until 5h. 30m. p.m., or until 6 p.m., with a fee of one penny, 
 in addition to the postage, which, as wxll as the fee, must 
 be paid in Post-office stamps fixed to the letter ; at the 
 Branch Post-offices at Charing Cross, Old Cavendish-street, 
 and Stone's-end, Borough, until 6 p.m., or with a fee of one 
 penny in addition to the postage, which, as well as the fee, 
 must be paid in Post-office stamps, until 6h. 45m. p.m. ; at 
 the Lombard-street office until 6 p.m., and until 7 p.m., 
 provided that the postage and penny fee are both paid in 
 Post-office stamps ; at the General Post Office, St. Martin's-le- 
 Grand, until 6 p.m., and at that office only until 7 p.m., 
 with a fee of one penny, which, as well as the postage, may 
 be paid either in money or by Post-office stamps ; and until 
 7h. 30m. p.m. with a fee of sixpence. 
 
 There ai-e at least ten deliveries of letters in London 
 daily. 
 
 The London District Posts leave and deliver about every 
 two hours. Take care to post before \ to 8, 10, 12, and 
 2, 4, 6, 8, and in one of the Iron Boxe? (first erected 1855) 
 on the kerb stones of the leading thoroughfares. 
 
 Letters posted at the Receiving-houses in London before 6 
 at night are delivered the same evening at all places within 
 a circle of three miles from the General Post Office ; or if 
 posted before 5, they are delivered in the environs the same 
 evening, 
 
 § 21, The first thing a stranger requii-es on reaching London, 
 is, to be conveniently lodged. Those to whom expense is no 
 object, and who wish to be at the West End of London, will 
 drive to the neighbourhood of St. James's, and will find in 
 the chief streets there every accommodation for families 
 or bachelors. The best Hotels in this district are the 
 Clarendon, in New Bond-street; Mivart's, in Bi'ook-street ; 
 Grilliou's, in Albemarle-street; Fenton's, Christie's, and Ellis's, 
 in St. James-street; and the numerous hotels m Jermyn- 
 
 c 2
 
 SXXvi § 21. WHERE TO LODOE. [The Stracger 
 
 street, Albemarle-street, and Dover-street; Long's and the 
 Blenheim, in Bond-street ; the Burlington and Queen's, in 
 Cork-street, may safely be recommended as good Family 
 Hotels. Here the first company always resort, and the terms 
 are accordingly high. The Gloucester and Hatchett's, in 
 Piccadilly ; and Limmer's, in Conduit-street, are the resorts 
 chiefly of sj^orting gentlemen or families : whilst of less 
 expensive hotels we may mention as central houses, chiefly 
 for bachelors, Richardson's, the Tavistock, the New and Old 
 Hummums, Bedford, and Piazza, in Covent Garden. Those who 
 wish to be midway between the City and the West End would 
 do well to put up at the Union, in Cockspur-street, Morley's, 
 at Charing Cross, or Feuillade's Colonnade Hotel, Charles- 
 street, Haymarket. 
 
 Less expensive houses are the Golden Cross, at Charing 
 Cross: in the City, the London Tavern, Bishopsgate -street, and 
 the Albion Tavern, in Aldersgate-street, both very famous for 
 large public or private dinners. The Bridge House Hotel, 
 London Bridge; the Bull and Mouth, and the Castle and 
 Falcon, St. Martin's-le-Grand, may be recommended ; besides 
 which, in St. Paul's Churchyard and its district, are many 
 good and respectable hotels. 
 
 The Great Western Railway Hotel at Paddington, (opened 
 1855) is the largest, and one of the best in London. 
 
 Foreign visitors of distinction will find French and Ger- 
 man spoken at Mivart's and the Clarendon. To those, how- 
 ever, who wish to be moderate in their expenses, we would 
 mention the well-known and admirably conducted house 
 of M. de Keyser (the Royal Hotel), New Bridge-street, Black- 
 friars ; here every guest must be introduced personally, or by 
 letter. But the quarter more especially devoted to French 
 and German visitors is Leicester-square, and the immediate 
 vicinity of the Haymarket. The chief hotels in this quarter 
 are the Sablonniere Hotel, and the Hotel de Provence (in 
 Leicester-square), both conducted by Mr. Nind, in the 
 Continental style. The French cuisine of both is excellent, 
 and at the former there is a table dliote daily at 6. The 
 Hotel de Versailles (Leicester-place, Leicester-square), and 
 the Panton Hotel (Panton-street, Haymarket), are also houses 
 well frequented. 
 
 The best restaurants are the "Wellington," 160, Piccadilly,
 
 inLcndon.] § 21. WHERE TO LODGE. XXXvii 
 
 " VeiTey's," Eegent-street, at the corner of Hauover-street ; 
 and the Sablonniere Hotel ; where there are daily talks 
 d' hote, and where dinners are served also in private apart- 
 ments ; Bertoliui's, St. Martin's-street, Leicester-square ; or 
 Rouget's, Castle-street, Leicester-square. All these establish- 
 ments provide French dinners at moderate rates. 
 
 Boai'ding-houses for Foreigners are also numerous around 
 Leicester-square. 
 
 The visitor \\dio wishes to make a lengthened stay in the 
 Metropolis, w-ill find it most economical to take lodgings. 
 These he may get at all prices, from the suite of elegantly 
 furnished rooms in the West End, at 7, 10, or 15 guineas a 
 week, to the bed-room and use of a breakfast parlour, at 10 
 shillings a week. In the West End the best description of 
 lodgings ai-e to be found in the streets leading from Piccadilly 
 — such as Sackville-street, Dover-street, Half-^Moon-street, 
 Clarges-street, and Duke-street, and in streets leading out 
 of Oxford-street and Eegent-street, St. James's-street, Jermyn- 
 street, Bmy-street, and King-street. The best class of 
 apartments are those in private houses, let by pei'sons of re- 
 spectability, generally for the season only. In the windows 
 of these houses you will probably not see " Apartments to 
 Let." A list of such apartments is to be found, however, at 
 the nearest house-agent, who gives cards to view, and states 
 terms. An advertisement in the Times for such rooms, 
 stating that "no lodging-house-keeper need apply," will often 
 open to the stranger the doors of veiy respectable families, 
 v/here he will get all the quiet and comfort of a home, so 
 difficult to be found in the noisy, and often extortionate 
 professed lodging-house. Furnished houses for families can 
 always be obtained at the West End. 
 
 Those who wish moderate lodgings in a central situation 
 should seek for apartments in some of the secondary streets 
 leading from the Strand, such as Cecil-street, Craven-street, 
 Norfolk- street, Southampton-street, Bedford-street, or the 
 Adelphi. Here, in the season, the prices range from 1 to 4 
 guineas for a sitting and bedroom. Those again who cai'e not 
 for locality will find every quax-ter of the town abounding in 
 boarding-houses and lodging-houses, varying in price according 
 to the situation. The middle-class visitor who is bent on sight- 
 seeing, should obtain abed-room in a healthy locality and the
 
 XXXviii § 22. where to dine and sup. [The Stranger 
 
 use of a breakfast-room. There dre thousands of such lodgings 
 to be had for half-a-guinea a week. He can either provide his 
 breakfast himself or get his landlady to provide it for him. 
 The various chop-houses and dining-rooms, of which there are 
 nearly COO in the Metropolis, wdll supply him with his dinner; 
 whilst the 900 coffee-houses will afford him a cheap tea in 
 any quarter of the to^vn. He should not omit to pay one visit 
 at least, however, to the Divan in the Strand, wheie for Is. he 
 has the entree of a handsome room, a cup of coffee and a cigar, 
 and the use of newspajDers, periodicals, chess, &c. 
 
 § 22. Many of the dining-houses of the City are famous for 
 some particular dish: Thus, the Ship and Turtle, in Leaden- 
 hall-street, for its turtle ; " Joe's," or " Ned's," in Finch-lane, 
 Cornhill, for steaks and chops, served on metal plates ; the 
 "Cock," 201 Fleet-street, for steaks and chops and ''snipe 
 kidneys ; " "Williams's Old Bailey Beef Shop " is famous for 
 its boiled beef ; "Dolly's," in Queen's Head Passage, Pater- 
 noster-row, is also a quiet chop-hoi;se ; the Three Tuns 
 Tavern, at Billingsgate Market, is the celebrated fish ordinary, 
 where at one and four the charge is Is. 6fZ., including butcher's 
 meat and cheese. There is an ordinary at the " Salutation," 
 in Newgate-street, every day at 5 o'clock, where you are 
 j)rovided with three courses for Is. 6d., bread, beer and 
 cheese included ; you are expected, however, to take wine 
 or spirits afterwards. In Bucklersbury, leading from Cheap- 
 side to the City, there are several clean and excellent 
 dining-rooms, where you may dine well from 8d. uj^wards. 
 These are termed " Dining-rooms," or " Eating-houses," and 
 it may be observed as a general rule that it is customary to 
 give the waiter Id. if your dinner is under Is., and so on in 
 proportion, but never to exceed 6d. each person. The " Eain- 
 bow," " Dick's," the " Mitre," and the " Cheshire Cheese," 
 either in Fleet-street, or leading out of, are good dining-houses 
 for chops, beefsteaks, or joints, and at moderate prices. 
 The European Coffee-house, facing the Mansion-house, is an 
 excellent house. The stranger should remember that some 
 of the very best dining-houses are in the City, and that 
 the joints there are in lest cut between 1 and 5 o'clock. 
 
 Westward of Temple Bar, the best dining-houses are the 
 "Wellington," 160, Piccadilly (late " Crockford's ") ; opened,
 
 in London.] § 22. WHERE TO DINE AND SUP. XXiix 
 
 1853. The charges are low, and the wines are in decanters 
 of imperial measure, Simpson's, at the Divan Tavern, 103, 
 Strand, — the great saloon is fitted np like the first-rate 
 French Restaurants ; fresh joints are cooked every quarter 
 of an hour, between the hours of 5 and half-past 7, and the 
 dish is wheeled round to the diner, that the carver may cut 
 to his liking ; charge, exclusive of stout or ale, Is. Simpson's 
 (now Cooper's), at the "Albion," close to Druiy-lane Theatre, 
 is still better; the arrangements are the same as at the 
 Divan Tavern ; it is also a great supper-house, lying, as it 
 does, contiguous to the operas and theatres ; the stout and 
 pale ale are here particularly good. Jaquet's, Clare-court, 
 Drury-lane, has nearly a century's reputation for an English 
 dish with a French name, " A-la-mode Beef." Still further 
 west, the " Blue Posts," in Cork-street, is a noted house, both 
 for its cooking and its baked punch. John O'Groat's, in 
 Rupert-street, and Pye's Dining Rooms, in Church-place, 
 Piccadilly, are clean and reasonable dining-houses. The 
 "Albany," in Piccadilly, is good and cheap, and a house in 
 which ladies may dine with comfort. The " Scotch Stores," 
 corner of New Bui'lington-street, Regent-street, and the 
 " Scotch Stores," in Oxford-street, (the " Green Man and 
 Still,") are good houses, the table-cloth clean, and your dinner, 
 served on metal, costs you about 2s. 6c?. Verrey's, in Regent- 
 street, affords the Englishman a good idea of decent French 
 cooking, the claret and other -wines being tolerable and not 
 dear. If you want to give a dinner to a friend, remember 
 that Richardson's Hotel in Covent-garden (Clunu's) is famed 
 for its wines. 
 
 Wilton's, Great Ryder-street, St. James'. Oysters and 
 stout are in AVest-end perfection. 
 
 The "\Yest End Tavern dining-hours are from 3 to 7 o'clock. 
 
 The "West End supper-houses are, Simpson's, opposite Drury- 
 lane (already mentioned) ; the Cyder Cellai-s, Maiden-lane ; 
 Rule's, in Maiden-lane, famous for boned bloaters and oysters; 
 the Coal-hole, in the Strand ; and Evans's, in Covent-garden. 
 The Hotel de I'Europe, Heming's, and Dubourg's, close to 
 the Haymarket Theatre, and the fish-shops, such as Scott's, 
 Quinn's, &c., which almost line this street, are much 
 used as late supper houses. In the City, the Cock, the 
 Rainbow, Dick's, and Dr. Johnson's tavern (all four in or
 
 xl § 23. THEATRES. [The Stranger 
 
 off Fleet-street)^ arc the chief houses resoi-ted to after the 
 theatres, 
 
 Tlie stranger who wishes to see City feasting in all its glory, 
 should procure an invitation to one of the banquets of some 
 of the City Companies in their own halls. The Goldsmiths' 
 dinners, given in their magnificent hall, behind the General 
 Post Office, exhibit a grand display of gold plate. Some of 
 the Companies, again, the Fishmongers, Merchant Tailors, &c., 
 are famous for their cookery, and the antique character of 
 their bills of fare— still maintaining the baron of beef, the 
 boar's-head, the swan, the crane, the ruff, and many other 
 delicacies of the days of Queen Elizabeth. After these dinners 
 "the loving cup" goes round. In the Carpenters' Company, 
 the new master and wardens are crowned with silver caps 
 at their feast; at the Cloth v/orkers, a grand procession 
 enters after dinner. Similar customs prevail at other of 
 the great Companies' banquets, and at all the dinners ai^e 
 first-rate. 
 
 The suburban dining-houses are the Star and Garter, and 
 the Castle, at Richmond, where you may dine simply but 
 well, for 4s, 6d. (wine excepted) ; Lovegrove's East India 
 Dock Tavern at Blackwall (where ministerial white-bait dinners 
 are given) ; the Crown and Sceptre, and Trafalgar, at Green- 
 wich, and the Ship at Gravesend ; these are all famous for 
 their white-bait. 
 
 § 23. The amusements and objects of interest in London are 
 so numerous, and so diverse in character, that some classifica- 
 tion is absolutely necessary to enable the visitor to make 
 his choice what he would most like to witness. The theatres, 
 which we presume to interest most classes, we shall place first, 
 giving in the most succinct manner the character of per- 
 formance to be seen at each. They are — 
 
 Heb Majesty's Theatre, Ilaymarket (Lessee, Mr. Luiiiley). 
 
 Royal Italian Opera, Lyceum, in the Sirand, (Lessee, Mr. Gye).— 
 Italian O-iera, 
 
 Duury-lane Theatre (Lessee, Mr. Smith).— Opera, Melodrama, Spec- 
 tacle, and Ballet. 
 
 Haymaeket Theatre (Lessee, Mr. Buckstone).— British Drama, Vau- 
 deville, Farce, and Burlesque. 
 
 Princess's, Oxford-street (Lessee, Mr, Charles Kean).— British Drama, 
 Melodrama, and Farce. 
 
 Adelphi, Strand (Lessee, Mr. B, Webster). — Melodrama and Farce. 
 
 Olympic Theatre, Wycli-strcet (Lessee, Mr. AVigan).— Melodrama and 
 Farce.
 
 in London.] §§ 23, 24. THEATRES — PANORAMAS, ETC. xU 
 
 St. James's Theatre, St. James's-street. — French Plays. Occasionally. 
 Strand Theatre, Strand (Lessee, Mr. AUcroft). — Melixlrama and Farce. 
 Maryleboxe, Church-street (Lessee, Mr. W:illack). — British Drama. 
 Sadler's Wells, Islington (Man^tger, ^Ir. Phelps). — British Drama. 
 Bbitaxxia Saloo.v, Hoxton (Lessee, Mr. S. Laiie).— Melodrama ar.d 
 
 Pantomime. 
 Queen's, Tottenham Court Road. — Jlelodrama and Farce. 
 City of Londox, Norton Folgate. — Melodrama and Farce. 
 Surrey, Blackfriars-road (Lessees, Messrs. Shepherd and Creswick}. — 
 
 Melodrama, English Opera, and Farce. 
 Victoria, Waterloo-road (Lesse^*, Miss Viiicent\ — Jlelodrama and Farce. 
 Astley's, Westminster Bridge. — Horsemanship and Melodrama. 
 Standard, opposite Eastern Counties Railway Station. — Melodiama acd 
 
 Farce. 
 Grecian Saloon, City Road. — Opera and Farce. 
 
 § 24. Places at xcliich Panoramas and Miscellaneous Exhibitions 
 are generally shown. 
 
 urford's Panorama, Leicester-square. — The Views are varied every 
 season. Open from 10 till dusk. Admission, Is. to each circle ; to 
 three circles, 2s. 6*:/. 
 
 Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly, opposite Bond-street. — Here, at 8 (Satur- 
 days excepted), and every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saairday morn- 
 ings at 3, 3Ir. Albert Smith gives his entertaining and instructive 
 exhibition of the Ascent of Mont Blanc. 
 
 COSMORAMA, 209, Regent-street.— Cosmoramic Views of remarkahle 
 places. Admission, 1^. Paintings on view. 
 
 Piccadilly, top of the Haymarktt. — The Lion Slayer, Mr. Gordon 
 Cumming. The Highland Gerard, " Tueur des 'Lions" describes 
 his marvellous South African si.ort, every night at 8 (Saturdays 
 excepted). 
 
 Wyld's Great Globe, in Leicesfer-sqnare. — Exhibiting the different 
 divisions of the world on its concave or interior surface. The 
 diameter of this monster model of the terrestrial world is 60 feet. 
 Open from 9 in the morning. Admission, l.s. 
 
 St. George's Gallery, Knightsbridge. Tuikish Exhibition, daily 
 from 11 till dusk, admission Is. 
 
 Royal Gallery of Illustration, 14, Regent-street. — Moving Pano- 
 "" rama, with descriptive Lecture, at 3 and 8. 
 
 The Polytechnic Institution, 309, Regent-street, and 5, Cavendish- 
 squai'e, is a collection of all kinds of curious machinery in motion, 
 and of models, &c.; lectures on chemistry, and other scientific sub- 
 jects are daily given, and dissolving views shown. Open from 11 
 o'clock till 5 o'clock, and from 7 o'clock till 10 o'clock. Admission, Is. 
 
 Kotal Panopticon of Science and Art, East-side of Leicester-square 
 — (Messrs. Finden and Lewis, Architects). Here is a fountain 
 throwing a coloure'l jet of water 97 feet high. 
 
 The Incubator, or Egg-Hatching Machine, Leicester-square. — The 
 whole process of hatching by artificial heat is here exhibited. 
 Admission, Is. 
 
 Madame Tussaud's Wax Works, Baker-street, Portman-square. The 
 evening is the best time. Admission, Is. Chamber of Horrors, 
 Qd. extra. 
 
 Bakek-Street Bazaar. — Cattle Show (middle of December). Admis- 
 sion, Is. 
 
 Ckemoene Gardens, Chelsea. The gardens open at 3, are illuminated
 
 xlii §§ 25, 2G. objects of interest [The stranger 
 
 at niglit. Dancing commences at dusk, the whole concluding with 
 Fireworks at 11. Admission, Is. 
 
 Yauxhall Gardens. Smi nryniinis umbra. The Royal Property appears 
 to be finally abandoned by tlie Genii of the Lamp, and will probably 
 be dt-livered over to the bricklayer. 
 
 Surrey Zoological Gardens. The animals have lately been sold off, 
 and tlie Gardens are to be re-arranged for musical entertninments. 
 
 Saville House, Leicester-square. — Assautsd'Armes ; Feats of Athletic 
 Dexterity, &c., on advertised evenings, generHlly Wednesdays. Tem- 
 porary exliihitious, Egg-hatcliing, Albinos, &c. 
 
 Polygrapiiic Hall, King William Street, Charing Cross. Mr. "Woodin 
 gives a popular entertainment (d la Mathews at Home) every even- 
 ing at 8. 
 
 Marionette Theatre, Adelaide Street (end of Lowther Arcade). A 
 pretty little salh-, constructed for a revival of the Puppet-Shows, 
 dear to the Special' >r. hut the t^peculation was not carried out in the 
 requisite spirit, and failed. Miscellaneous entertainments. 
 
 § 25. Performances of Interest to the Musician. 
 
 The Two Operas. See xl. 
 
 Concerts of the Philharmonic Society held in the Ilanover-square 
 
 Rooms. Apply at Messrs. Addison and Co.'s, 110, Regent-street. 
 Sacred Harmonic Society. 
 Hullah's Wednesday Night Concerts, held in St. Martin's Hall, 
 
 89, Long-acre. 
 Musical Union Concerts, held in Willis's Rooms, King-street, St. 
 
 James's. 
 Performances of Oratorios by Handel, Haydn, Mendelssohn, &c., 
 
 in Exeter Hall, from November to July. 
 Private Concerts, given by celebrated artists, during the season — 
 
 May, June, July. 
 Ella's Concerts of Instrumental Music — most scientific and first-rate. 
 The Anniversary of the Sons of the Clergy, in St. Paul's Cathedral, 
 The Anniversary of the Charity Children of London, beneath 
 
 the Dome of St. Paul's, the First Thursday in June. 
 Madrigal, Clioral, and Glee Societies, always taking place in the Metro- 
 polis, of which notice is given in the public papers. 
 Evans's Hotel, Covent Ganleu. (New Hall opened 1855.) 
 Canterbury Hall, Westminster Bridge Road. 
 
 § 26. Objects of Interest to the Painter and Connoisseur. 
 
 § The Collections thus marked are private, and placed in dwelVvig-houses, 
 and can only be seen hy special permission of the owners.* 
 
 National Gallery, including the Vernon Collection at Marlborough- 
 
 house. Free. 
 § Queen's Collection at Buckingham Palace ; to be seen f>nly by an 
 
 order from the Lord Chamberlain of Her Majesty's Household. 
 
 The office of the Lord Chamberlain is in St. James's Palace. 
 Collection of Early_ German Art at Kensington Palace. Property 
 
 of Prince Louis D'Ottingen Wallerstein. 
 
 * These Collections are fully and admirably described in Waagen's 
 " Treasures of Art in Britain," 1854.
 
 in London.] TO MUSICIANS, PAINTERS, ETC. xliii 
 
 Bridgewatf.r Gallery, St. James's. 
 
 g Grosvenor Gallery, off Park-lane. 
 
 g Duke of Sutherland's Murillos, and Earl of Arundel by Van 
 Dyck. 
 
 Duke of Bedford's Dutch Pictures, G, Belgravc-square. 
 
 g The Correggio (Cbiist in the Garden), and other pictures, at Apsley 
 House. 
 
 g The Van Dyck Portraits and Sketches (en grisaille), fine Cana- 
 letti, (View of Whitehall), at Montague House. 
 
 § Lord Garvagii's Raphael, the Aldobrandini Madonna, 26, 
 Portman-square. 
 
 g Duke of Grafton's Duplicate or Original of the Louvre Pic- 
 ture, by Van Dyck, of Charles I. standing by his horse. 
 
 The Holbein, at Barber- Surgeons' Hall, Monkwell-street, City, This 
 is the finest Holbein in England. Ring the bell, a.sk to see the 
 picture, and give a shilling to the person showing it. 
 
 Titian's Cornaro Family, at Northumberland House; to be seen by 
 an order from the Duke of Northumberland only. 
 
 Rueens's Ceiling, in Inigo Jones's Banqueting House (now the Chapel 
 Roviil), at Whitehall. May be seen on Sunday morning after 
 divine service. 
 
 Old Masters and Diploma Pictures, at the Royal Academy. Write 
 to the Keeper of the Royal Academy, C. Landseer, Esq., R.A., 
 stating who you are, and you will receive an answer. 
 
 The Hogarths and Canaletti, at the Soane Museum in Lincoln' s- 
 Inn-fields. 
 
 The Hogarths, at the Foundling Hospital, Lincoln's Inn Hall, and St. 
 Bartholomew's Hospital. 
 
 The Three Sir Joshua Reynolds', at the Dilettanti Society, Thatched 
 House Tavern, St. James's-street. 
 
 g The Van Dycks, at Earl de Grey's, in St. James' s-square. 
 
 g Sir Robert Peel's Dutch Pictures, at Privy Gardens. 
 
 g Mr. Hope's Dutch Pictures, Piccadilly (corner of Down-street). 
 
 The Portraits in the British Museum. 
 
 g Lord Lansdowne's Collection, Lansdowne House. 
 
 Barry's Pictures at the Society of Arts, Adelphi. 
 
 The Pictures in the Painted Hall, Greenwich. 
 
 g The Duke of Devonshire's Gallery, Piccadilly. 
 
 Miss CouTTs Burdett's Fine Collection of Miniatures, by Oliver 
 and Petitot. 
 
 g Lord Ashburton's Collection, at Bath House, Piccadilly. 
 
 Lord Ward's Collection, in (temporarily) the Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly. 
 
 g Marquis of Hertford's Collection, Piccadilly, comer of Engine-st. 
 
 g Lord Normanton's Collection. 
 
 g Baron Rothschild's Murillo (Infant Saviour), at Gunnersbury, five 
 miles from Apsley House, Hyde-Park-comer. 
 
 g R. S. Holford's Collection, (at present, 1853, at No. 65, Russell-sq.) 
 
 The 39 Richard Wilsons and Fine Spanish Pictures of Richard 
 Ford, Esq., 123, Park-street, Grosvenor-square. 
 
 g Pool of Bethesda, by Murillo, at George Tomliue's, Esq., No. 1, 
 Carlton-IIouse-terrace. 
 
 Private Collections of John Sheepshanks, Esq., of Rutland Gate, 
 Knightsbridge ; of H. A. J. Munro, Esq., in Hamilton-place, 
 Piccadilly; of Thomas Baring, Esq., M.P., 41, Upper Grosvenor- 
 street; of Mrs. Gibbons, No. 17, Hanover-terrace, Regent's Park; of 
 — BiCKNELL, Esq., at Herne-hill, Surrey, five miles from Waterloo 
 Bridge ; Mr. B. G. Windus's Turner Drawings, at Tottenham, five 
 miles from St. Paul's ; (shown every Tuesday to strangers bringing 
 letters of introduction.) 
 
 The Dulwich Gallery, p. 170
 
 xliv §§ 27j 28. OBJECTS OF INTEREST TO THE [The Stranger 
 
 Raphael's Cartoons, &c., at Hampton Court. 
 The Van Dyck Pictures, &c., at Windsor. 
 
 The Exhibitions of the Schools at Marleorougii House, Pall 
 Mall. 
 
 Exhibitions of Modern Pictures. 
 
 Royal Academy of Arts, East Wing of the National Gallery, in 
 Trafalgar-square. The Exhibition of the Academy, containing the 
 greatest novelties of tlie best English Artists, is open to the public 
 daily from the first Monday in May till near the end of July. Ad- 
 mission, Is. ; Catalogue, Is. If you wish to see the pictures, go early, 
 before 12 ; if you wish to see company, and not to see the pictures, 
 go between 3 and 4. Persons desiring to become purchasers of 
 pictures or other works of art, are requested to apply to the Clerk. 
 The better works are generally all sold before the day of opening. 
 
 Society of British Artists, exhibiting between 500 and 600 pictures 
 annually, at Sutfolk-street, Charing Cross. Admission, Is., open in 
 April. 
 
 The British Institution, Pall-mall, containing in the spring months 
 annually between 300 and 400 modern pictures. During the summer 
 months there is an Exhibition of ancient masters, collected from 
 the principal private collections in town and country. Admission, Is. 
 Catalogue, Is. 
 
 Society of Painters in Water Colours, Pall-mall West. Admission, 
 Is., open in April. Catalogue, 6d. 
 
 New Society of Painters in Water Colours, Pall-mall East. Ad- 
 mission, Is., open in April. Catalogue, 6d. 
 ortland Gallery, 316, Regent-street, opposite the Polytechnic. 
 Admission, Is. Catalogue, 6d. 
 
 During the London season (April, May, and June) the 
 Connoisseur should make a point of occasionally dropping in 
 at the Auction Rooms of Christie and Manson, in King-street, 
 St. James' s-square ; and of Sotheby and Wilkinson, Welling- 
 ton-street, Strand. 
 
 § 27. Objects of Interest to the Sculptor. 
 
 The Nineveh, Elgin, Phigalian, Townley, and other Marbles 
 in the British Museum. 
 
 Bas-relief, by Michael Angelo, at the Royal Academy. Write to the 
 Keeper of the Royal Academy, C. Landseer, Esq., R.A. 
 
 The Sculpture in St. Paul's and Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Statue of Charles I., by Le Soeur, at Charing-cross. 
 
 Statue of James II., by Grinling Gibbons, behind Whitehall. 
 
 g Statue of Napoleon, by Canova, at Apsley House, Statues by the 
 same artist at Buckingham Palace. 
 
 g Two Fine Statues, by Canova, at Gunnersbury (five miles from Hyde- 
 Park -corner), seat of Baron Lionel de Rothschild, M.P. 
 
 The several Statues in the Squares and public Places — Pitt, by 
 Chantrey, in Hanover-square; Fox, by Westmacott, in Blooms- 
 bury-square; Canning, by Westmacott, near Westminster Hall; 
 George III., by Wyatt, in Cockspnr-street ; George IV., by Chan- 
 trey, in Trafalgar-square ; the Duke of Wellington before the 
 Royal Exchange, by Chantrey, and at Hyde-Park -corner, by Wyatt. 
 
 Two Statues of Madness and Melancholy, by Cibber, at Bethlehem 
 Hospital, Write to Sir Peter Laurie, the President of the Hospital, 
 7, Park-square, Regent's Park,
 
 ia London.] SCULPTOR, ARCHITECT, AND ENGINEER. 
 
 xlv 
 
 Flaxman's Models at University College, in Gower-street. Write to 
 
 C. C. Atkinson, Esq., at University College. 
 Mourning Achilles, by T. Banks, ll.A., in the hall of the British 
 
 Institution, and 
 Fine Bas-eeljef, in the hall of the National Galleiy. 
 g Marbles at Lansdowne House, in Berkeley-square, the residence of the 
 
 Marquis of Lansdowne. 
 g Greek Slave Girl, by Hiram Power, at the house of John Grant, Esq., 
 
 7, Hyde-Park-Street. 
 The fine collection of Casts at the Crystal Palace, at Sydenham. 
 
 § 28, Objects of Interest to the Architect and Engineer. 
 
 Gothic. 
 
 The Norman Chapel, in the Tower. 
 The Norman Crypt, under the 
 
 church of St. Mary-le-Bow. 
 St. Bartholomew-the-Great. 
 St. Mary Overy. 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 Westminster Hall. 
 Temple Church. 
 Dutch Church, Austin Friars. 
 Ely Chapel. 
 
 The Crypt at Guildhall. 
 The Crypt at St. John's, Clerken- 
 
 well. 
 Allhallows Barking. 
 St. Olave's, Hart-street. 
 Cro-sby Hall, Bishopsgate-street, 
 
 built 1466-1472. 
 Savoy Chapel. 
 
 St. John's Gate, Clerkenwell. 
 Lambeth Palace — (Chapel and 
 
 Hall.) 
 
 Benaissance : 
 
 Holland House, Kensington. 
 Works, by Inigo Jones: 
 
 Banqueting House, Whitehall. 
 
 St. PauVs, Covent-garden. 
 
 York Water-gate. 
 
 Shaftesbury House, Aldersgate- 
 street. 
 
 Lindsey House, Lincoln's-Iun- 
 tields (West side). 
 
 Ashbumham House, off the 
 Cloisters, Westminster. 
 
 Lincoln's Inn Chapel. 
 
 St. Catherine Cree — (part only.) 
 
 Piazza, Covent-garden. 
 By Sir Christopher Wren : 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 St. Stephen's, Walbrook. 
 
 St. Mary-le-Bow, in Cheapside. 
 
 St. Bride's, Fleet-street. 
 
 St Magnus, London Bridge. 
 
 St. James's, Piccadilly. 
 
 SpireofSt.Dunstan's-in-the-East. 
 St. Mary Aldermaiy. 
 St. Michael's, Cornhill. 
 Towers of St.Vedast, St.Antholin, 
 and St. Margaret Pattens. 
 By Gibbs : 
 
 St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, 
 St. Mary-le-Strand. 
 
 By Hawksmoor (Wren's pupil) : 
 St. Maiy Woolnoth, near the 
 
 Mansion House. 
 Christ Church, Spitalfields. 
 St. George's, Bloomsbury. 
 Limehouse Church. 
 
 By Lord Burlington : 
 Colonnade, at Burlington House. 
 Duke of Devonshire's Villa at 
 C Ms wick. . 
 
 By Sir William Chambers : 
 
 Somerset House. 
 By Kent : 
 
 Marquis of Bath's House, No. 44, 
 Berkeley-square. 
 
 By Dance (Senior) : 
 The Mansion House. 
 
 By Dance (Junior): 
 
 Newgate. 
 By Mylne : 
 
 Blackfriars Bridge. 
 By John Rennie : 
 
 Waterloo Bridge. 
 By Sir John Soane : 
 
 Bank of England. 
 By Nash : 
 
 Regent-street. 
 
 Buckingham Palace (cast front 
 excepted, which is by Bloee). 
 By Decimus Burton : 
 
 Athenaeum Club, Pall-mall. 
 
 Colosseum, in the Regent's Park. 
 
 Screen at Hyde-Park-corner.
 
 Xlvi § 29. OBJECTS OF INTEREST TO ANTIQUARY. [The St 
 
 By Philip IIardv/ick (and 
 Son): 
 Goldsmiths' Hall. 
 Lincoln's Inn Hall. 
 Euston-square RailwayTenninus 
 
 By Sir Robert Smirxe: 
 
 British Museum. 
 
 Post Office. 
 By Sir Charles Barry : 
 
 New Houses of Parliament. 
 
 Reform Chib, Pall-niaU. 
 
 Travellers' Club, Pali-mall. 
 
 Treasury, Wliiteh.ill. 
 
 Bridgewater House. 
 
 By Sydney Sjiirke, A.R.A. : 
 Carlton Club-house 
 Conservative Club-house. 
 Interior of Pantheon. 
 
 By G.G. Scott, A.R.A. : 
 Camberwell New Church. 
 
 By Benjamin Ferrey : 
 St. Stephen's Church, Rochester- 
 row, Westminster. 
 
 By Thomas Cundy : 
 Holy Ti-inity Church, West- 
 bourne Terrace, Paddington. 
 
 By Carpenter: 
 All Saints', Margaret-street, Ca- 
 vendish-squaie. 
 By Butterfield : 
 
 St. Mary Magdalen, Munster- 
 square. 
 By Messrs. Raphael, Brandon, 
 and Robert Ritchik: 
 Catholic and Apostolic [or Irving- 
 
 IteJ Church, Gordon-square. 
 The Stations of the great Rail- 
 Avays, viz., Great Western, 
 North Westeru, Great North- 
 ern, South Eastern, &c. 
 
 y^B 
 
 /^ T 
 
 § 29. Objects of Interest to the Antiquary. 
 
 The British Museum. 
 The Tower. 
 
 estminster Abbey. 
 The Chapter House, Westminster. 
 
 The Remains of London Wall, in St. Martin's-court, off Liidgate-hill. 
 London Stone, inserted in the outer wall of the church of St. Swithin 
 
 in Cannon-street. The top is seen through an oval opening. 
 
 Camden considers it to have been the central MiUiarium, or mile- 
 stone, similar to that in the Forum at Rome, from which the 
 
 British high roads radiated, and from which the distances on them 
 
 were reckoned. 
 The Collection at the City of London Library, at Guildhall. 
 
 HE Roman Bath under the Coal Exchange, at Billingsgate. 
 The Museum of the Society of Antiquaries, at Somerset House. 
 
 Write to J. Y. Akerman, Esq., F.S.A., Secretary, for permission. 
 g The Collections of George Gwilt, F.S.A, 
 
 and of Me.C. Roach Smith, F.S.A., 25, Liverpool-street, City. 
 g The Choice Collection of China, &c., belonging to Joseph 
 
 Marryat, Esq., 6, Richmond-terrace, Whitehall, Author of " History 
 
 of Pottery and Porcelain." 
 The Gothic Churches named in p. xlv. 
 St. John's Gate, Clerker.well. 
 
 Stained-glass Window, in St. Margaret's, Westminster. 
 Monument of Camden, in Westminster Abbey. 
 Monument of Stow, in St. Andrew's Uudershaft, by the East India 
 
 House, in Leadenhall-street. 
 g The China (especially Faience of Henri II.) of Sir Anthony de 
 
 Rothschild, Bart., 2, Grosvenoi'-place Houses, Hyde-Park-corner. 
 § The Spanish Moresco and Majolica of Richard Ford, Esq. (123, 
 
 Park-street), Author of " A Handbook for Spain." 
 Sword and Turquoise Ring of James IV. of Scotland, at Heralds' 
 
 College. 
 Daggers taken from Blood when he attempted to steal the Crown in the 
 
 reign of Charles II., at Literary Fund Rooms, Great Russell-street, 
 
 comer of Bloomsbury-square.
 
 ia London.] § 30. PLACES AND SIGHTS TO BE SEEN. xlvii 
 
 § 30. Places and Sights which a Stranger mtcst see. 
 
 -The Tower, to be seen daily, Sundays excepted, charge 6d. 
 
 'Westminster Abbey, to be seen daily, Sundays excepted. 
 
 'St. Pauls Cathedral, to be seen daily, Sundays excepted. 
 
 Britisu Museum, free, open Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. 
 
 '^atioxal Gallery, free, open Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and 
 
 , Thursdays. 
 , Houses of Parliament. Satnrdny, during the Session, is the day for 
 seeing the " Houses," Halls, &c., between 10 and 4. Tickets are to 
 be obtained by all respectable applicants, (gratis), at the Lord Great 
 Chamberlain's office, iu the building, near the Victoria Tower. 
 
 ,Westmjnster Hall. 
 
 St. Jamess Park, 
 
 St. Jamess Palace, 
 
 Buckingham Palace, to be seen by order from the Lord Chamberlain of 
 her Majesty's household, when Her Majesty is out of town. The 
 office of the Lord Chamberlain is in St. James's Palace. 
 
 Lajibeth Palace, to be seen by order from the Archbishop of Can- 
 terbury. 
 
 Apsley House, to be seen by order from the Duke of Wellington. 
 
 "Hyde Park, between 5 past 5 and i past 6 p.m. in May and June. 
 
 ivENSrxGTON Gardens, between ^ past 5 and i past 6 in May and June. 
 The band plays Tuesdays and Fridays. 
 
 Whitehall Banqueting House. The spot where Charles I. was be 
 headed. 
 
 ■^hames between Chelsea and Greenwich. 
 
 Charing Cross and Charles I.'s Statue. 
 
 NVaterloo Bridge. 
 
 Thames Tunnel, open daily, admission Id. 
 
 London Docks. Get a tasting order for the wine-vaults, p. 69. 
 
 Metropolitan Cattle Markkt (the modem Smithfield); to see the 
 market, go early on a ^Monday. 
 
 CovENT-GARDEN MARKET ; go on a Saturday momlng early. 
 
 London Stone. 
 
 St. John's Gate. 
 
 Temple Bar. 
 
 The Monument, to commemorate the Fire of London in 1666, open 
 daily, Sundays excepted, admission 3d. 
 
 Old Priory Church of St. Bartholomew in Smithfield. 
 
 Temple Church, during Sunday morning service. A Bencher's order, 
 or personal introduction, will admit you to the best seats. From 
 Monday to Friday inclusive, the church is to be seen without a 
 bencher's order. 
 
 Bow Church. 
 
 St. Stephen's, Walbrook. 
 
 Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park. 
 
 Surrey Zoological Gardens. 
 
 Goldsmiths' Hall. 
 
 SoANE Museum, see p. 174. 
 
 Royal Exchange. 
 
 Bank of England. 
 
 The Mint. 
 
 Christ's Hospital, the children supping in public every Sunday evening 
 from Quinquagesima Sunday to Easter Sunday inclusive. 
 
 Museum of the College of Surgeons. 
 i^ST. Paul's Cathedral from Blackfriars' Bridge; ditto, from Sermon- 
 lane. 
 
 Times Newspaper Office, Printing-house-square, Blackfriars, to be 
 seen by order signed by the printer of the paper. The office of this
 
 xlviii § 30. PLACES AND SIGHTS TO BE SEEN. [The Stranger 
 
 ■world-famous Paper is placed in one of the most labyrinthine recesses 
 to be seen in I^ondon.* 
 
 Barclay's BuEwnousE, in Sonthwark, near London Bridge, is to be seen 
 byoi'der from the Messrs. Barclay. 
 
 Allsopp and Sons Bceton Ale Warehouses, Haydon-square, Minories, 
 (occupying 20,000 square feet). 
 
 Clowes's Printing Office, Stamford-street, Blackfriars, to be seen by 
 order from Messrs. Clowes & Son. 
 
 Lord's Cricket-Ground, near the Eyre Arms, St. John's Wood, when 
 a match is being played. 
 
 Museum of Practical Geology, in Piccadilly. 
 
 United Service Museum, at Whitehall. 
 
 East India House, Museum, Leadenhall-street, open every Friday 
 afternoon. 
 
 The Haymarket, between I past 11 and 12 of an Opera and Haymarket 
 Theatre night in the thickest of the London season, when the crush 
 of carriages and cabs — the crowd of orderly and disorderly people — 
 the brilliant appearance of the taverns and shell-fish shops, form an 
 extraordinary picture. 
 
 London Bridge, about h past 9 in the morning, when it is most crowded 
 with passengers, all pushing into the City on business; or at § past 
 4 and 5, p.m. 
 
 The Opening of Parliament, generally in February, and its proroga- 
 tion, generally in July. 
 
 The Three Horticultural F^ites at Chiswick, in May, June, and July. 
 
 The FfiTES at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park. 
 
 The Thames, by moonlight, from Westminster Bridge. 
 
 The Gas Illumination down the " dip of Piccadilly," looking from 
 Devonshire House. 
 
 The Great Hall of the North-Westeni Terminus, Euston-square. 
 
 The Post Office Arcade, St. Martin's-le-Grand, at G o'clock on Satur- 
 days, when the grand rush to post newspapers takes place. To see the 
 sorting process immediately after, get an order from Colonel Maberly. 
 
 The Inner Temple Gardens. 
 
 The Bank of England Cellars, and Coining Machine for weighing 
 coin and making bank-notes. 
 
 The Coal Exchange, Lower Thames-street. 
 
 The Long Room in the Custom House. 
 
 Break-neck Stairs off the Old Bailey, affording a capital notion 
 of the strength of London wlien enwalled. 
 
 Doctors' Comjions, the best example of solitude in tlie heart of a great 
 city, 
 
 § 31. Places near Loiidon which a Stranger should see. 
 
 Windsor Castle, by Great Westeni Railway from Paddington, or by 
 South Westeni Railway from Waterloo Station, Ask for return 
 
 * The Times of the 7th May, 1850, comprised 72 columns, or 17,500 
 lines- containing more than a million different pieces of type. More 
 marvellous still, two-fiftlis of the matter of M-hich the type was the 
 exponent, vras unioritten at seven o'clock on the previous evening. The 
 number of compositors employed was 110, and the number of press- 
 men 25. The Times prints 200 sheets a minu:e. (The Times of March, 
 1854.) 
 
 The circulation of the Times is 59,000 per diem ; of these 33,000 are, 
 distributed by news-agents in London; 26,000 go into the country (of 
 which 22,000 are conveyed by railway trains), and 5,800 by ^os,i.— Chan- 
 cellor of the Exchequer in the " Times " of March Idth, 1855.
 
 in London.] § 31 PLACES NEAR LONDON TO BE SEEN. xlix 
 
 ticket, if returning the same day ; or if from Saturdav, you are 
 privileged till Monday : always show your return tickets on 
 passing through the office. The state apartments in Windsor 
 Castle ai"e open gratuitously to the public on Mondays, Tuesdays, 
 Thursdays, and Fridays, by the Lord Chamberlain's tickets, 
 to be obtained in London (gratis) of Messrs. Paul and Dominic 
 Colnaghi, Printsellers, No. 14, Pall-mall East ; of Mr. Mitchell, Book- 
 seller, No. 33, Old Bond-street; of Messrs. Ackerraann and Co., 
 Printsellers, No. 96, Strand; and of Mr. Wnght, Bookseller, No. 60, 
 Pall-mall ; of whom also Guide-books may be obtained, for one penny 
 each. The tickets are available for one week from the day they are 
 issued. They are not transferable, and it is contrary to Iler 
 Majesty's command that payment for, or in reference to, them be 
 made to any person whatever. The hours of admission to the state 
 apartments are— from 1st April to 31st October, between 11 and 4; 
 and from 1st November to 31st .March, between 11 and 3. The Inns 
 at M'indsor are the White Hart and the Crown (neither very good). 
 
 Etox College, 1 mile from Windsor. 
 
 Hamptox Coukt, by South-Western Railway from Waterloo Station. 
 The state apartments are open gratuitously to the public on every 
 dayof the week, except Fiiday, when they are closed for the purpose 
 of being cleaned. The hours are from 10 o'clock in the morning until 
 G o'clock in the evening, from the 1st of April to the 1st of October, 
 and the remainder of the year from 10 until 4. The Vine, in the 
 Private Garden, and the Maze, in the Wilderness, are open every 
 day until sunset; for these a small fee is required by tlie gardeners 
 who sho* them. Inns — The King's Arms, the New Toy, and the 
 Mitre. Mr. Grundy's Guide, .sold in the rooms (price 3^.), contains 
 a complete catalogue of the pictures. 
 
 <;reexwich Hospital, by Greenwich Railway from London Bridge 
 Station, or it is accessible by steamboat from Hungerford Market 
 Stairs, or London Bridge. {See Painted Hall.) 
 
 Woolwich Ap.sexal, by North Kent Railway from London Bridge or by 
 Railway to Blackwall Pier, and thence by Steamer. Here are placed 
 the stores belonging to the Government Board of Ordnance. Open 
 every day, except Sundays. The Dock-yard, 10 till 4. Arsenal and 
 Royal Militaiy Repository, 9 till half-past 11; 1 till 4. Admission. — 
 To the Dock-\ ard, free. Arsenal and Royal Military Repository, 
 by tickets given by the Master-General of the Ordnance, certain 
 Officers of the Artillery, or the personal escort of any of the officers. 
 Strangers are admitted to walk about the grounds of the Arsenal, 
 but not to ent r the huildirigs. Principal Objects. — In the Dock-yard : 
 the Blacksmiths' Shop, vario'::s Docks, and all the activity of ma- 
 chinery incidental to ship-building. In the Arsenal: the Foundry 
 for casting, boring cannon ; Laboratory, in which the several sorts 
 of ammunition are prepared; also models connected ■with the sub- 
 ject; machinery of all kinds for preparing articles for the use of the 
 Artillei-y service. In the Royal Military Repository: Models of 
 Batteries, Artillery, Vessels, Barracks, various Forts, Towns, Rock 
 of Gibral'ar. The very best way of seeing Woolwich and its curio- 
 sities is to obtain the escort of an Artillery Officer. The Govern- 
 ment Ordnance Stores in all parts of the world are valued at six 
 millions, and of this sum, goods to the value of more than a million 
 and a half are deposited at Woolsvich. Foreigners wishing to see 
 AVoolwich or other Royal Dock-yards and Arsenals, must apply 
 to the ambassador or minister from their country residing in 
 England. 
 
 Crystal Palace, at Sydenham, erected 185.3-4, at a cost of £1,450,000— 
 one million more than the original estimate. The expenses have 
 
 d
 
 1 §35, ARXISTS' STUDIOS. [The Stranger 
 
 been £60,000 a year. Take irain from London Bridge to Anerley 
 Station. The exterior alone ■will repay a visit. 
 
 DuLWiCH Gallery, open every day of the week except Fridays and Sun- 
 dajs. "Without a ticket no person can be admitted, and no tickets 
 are given in Dulwich. Tickets are to be obtained gratis of Henry 
 Graves and Co., 6, Pall-mall ; Messrs. Colnaghi and Co., Pall-mall 
 East; Mr. Lloyd, 23, Harley-street; H. Leggatt and Co., Cornhill; 
 and Mr. Markby, Croydon, Surrey. Schools, and children under the 
 age of fourti-en, are not admitted. Hours of admission, from April to 
 November, 10 to 5; from November to April, 11 to 3. 
 
 § IIOLLAXD House, Kensington, can only be seen by order from Lord 
 Holland. The exterior, however, will repay a visit, and may be 
 seen from the Kensington-road. Walk up pathway to the house — a 
 pleasant walk. 
 
 Hamp.stead and Highgate— pleasant places in themselves, and afford- 
 ing excellent views of London. 
 
 Royal Botanic Gardens ov Kew are open gratuitously to the public 
 every day (Sundays excepted) from 1 to 6 o'clock. The Boyal Plea- 
 sure Grounds, (sometimes by strangers confounded with the Botanic 
 Gardens,) constitute a separate though adjoining portion of orna- 
 mental ground, open gratuitously to the public from Midsummer-day 
 to Michaelmas, every Thursday and Sunday, by three gates : two in 
 the road leading fiom Kew to Richmond, called the Lion Gate and 
 the Pagoda Goie, and one by the river side, nearly opposite Brentford 
 Ferry, and called the Brentford Gate. 
 
 View from the Terrace and the Park at Richmond. 
 
 View from Greenwich Observatory. 
 
 View from Harrow Churchyard. 
 
 St. Alban's Abbey, 21 miles north of London (by the Great Northern 
 Railway, 5 miles from the Hatfield Station). 
 
 § 32. L.AWs Relating to Foreigners.— By the law of Great Britain all 
 foreigners have imrestricted right of entrance and residence in this 
 country; and while they remain in it, are, equally with British sub- 
 jects, under the protection of the law; nor can they be punished 
 except for an offence against the law, and under the sentence of the 
 ordinary tribunals of justice, after a public trial, and on a conviction 
 founded on evidence given in open Court. No foreigners, as such, 
 can be sent out of this country by the Executive Government, except 
 persons removed by virtue of treaties with other States, confirmed by 
 Act of Parliament, for the mutual surrender of criminal oflenders. — 
 Her 3Iajf sty's Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, January 13, 1S52. 
 
 § 33. Newspapers.— The principal L'^ndon morning newspapers are the 
 Times, published daily (Sunday excepted), Ofdce, Piinting Houee- 
 square, Blackfriars; the Daily News; the Morning Advertiser ; the 
 Morning Herald; the Morning Chronicle; the 3Ior/,ing Post. For 
 evening news see the Globe and the Standard. Each paper price 4rf. 
 
 § 34. Geology and Soil. London stands on— 1, clay; 2, plastic clay and 
 sand; 3, chalk; 4, upper green-sand ; 5, ganlt; 6, lower green-sand ; 
 7, weald clay. 
 
 § 35. Studios of the Principal Artists. 
 
 painters. 
 Sir Charles Eastlake, P.R.A.... 7, Fitzroy-square. 
 
 Sir Edwin Landseer 1, St. John's -wood-road. 
 
 William Mulready 1, Linden-grove, Kensington. 
 
 C'larkson Stanfield Hampstead. 
 
 C. R. Leslie 2, Abercorn-place, St. John's-wood. 
 
 David Roberts 7, Fitzroy-street, Fitzroy-square. 
 
 Francis Grant 27, Sussex-place, Regent's-park.
 
 in London.] § 36. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS, U 
 
 Thomas Webster The Mall, Kensington. 
 
 C. W. Cope 19, Hyde-park-g-'te South. 
 
 J. R. Herbert Hanipstead. 
 
 D. Maclise 14, Ru^sell-place, Fitzroy-square. 
 
 AV. P. Frith 10, Pembridge-villas, Bayswater. 
 
 E. M. Ward Slough, near Windsor. 
 
 E.W.Cooke The Ferns, Kensington. 
 
 Augustus Egg Little Campden Hou<e, Kensington. 
 
 J. E. MiHais Langham Chambers, Regent-street. 
 
 SCULPTORS. 
 
 Sir Richard Westmacott 14, South Audlev-street. 
 
 E. PL Haily 17, Newman-street. 
 
 W. C. Marshall 47, Ebury-street, Eaton-square. 
 
 P. M'Dowell 75 a, Margaret-street. 
 
 Baron Marochetti 34, OnsloTr-square. 
 
 § 36. Contemplated Metropolitan Improvements. — On the 13th of 
 March, 1855, a select commitiee of the House of Commons was 
 appointed to inquire into tlie state and condition of the several 
 communications in the metropolis, and to report whether the com- 
 munications and approaches are adequate to the present and in- 
 creasing traffic to and in the metropolis, and, if not. the best mode 
 of improving the same. The committee reported on the 23rd of 
 July, and their report has since been published in the form of a Blue 
 Book, of 200 pages, with maps and plans appended. The committee 
 fiud that the requirements of the existing traffic of the metropolis 
 far exceed the present facilities provided for it; that the rapid 
 increase of traffic is constantly adding to the amount of inconve- 
 nience and loss thus caused; that, enormous as the increase has 
 been, it is, and must continue, to be kept seriously in check by the 
 want of means for its natural expansion, and that )t has become 
 indispensable to make provision fa- the future ou a great and com- 
 prehensive scale, and with the least possible delay. The population 
 of the metropolitan district in 1851 amounted to 2,362,233 (having 
 doubled itself in 40 years). About 200,000 persons enter the c^ty 
 each day on foot by different avenues, and 1.5,000 by the river 
 steamers. The omnibuses alone perfurm an aggregate of 7,400 daily 
 journeys through the city. The number of passengers arriving at 
 and departing from the London-bridge group of railroad termini 
 rose in the year 1854 to 10,>;'45,0<;>0, from 5,558,000 in the year 1850. 
 At the Soutii-Western Raihviy, during the same period, the numbers 
 increased from 1,228,* 00 to 3,30S,OOi^. The numbers arriving at 
 and departing from the Shoreditch station in 1854 was 2,143,000; 
 Euston-square, 970,000; Paddington, 1,400,000; Kings-cross, 711,000; 
 and Fenchurch-street, S,144,00i'. Tlie committee recommend, that 
 wherever the main arteries along which the traffic now flows are 
 inadequate, or severely burdened thereby, relief should at once be 
 sought, either by opening up new routes or by enlarging the old ; 
 that more direct lines of communication should be established than 
 now exist between several principal points of the metropolis ; that the 
 different railway termini should be connected with each other, and 
 also with tlie docks, the river, and the Post-office, by railway; that 
 tolls on the roads and bridges within the district of the metropolis 
 should be generally removed ; that private enterprises for improving 
 the communication be encouraged ar.d adopted v.hen practicable ; 
 that when tlie improvemer.ts have more of the character of a public 
 benefit than a commercial sppcrdation, care be taken to diminish 
 the cost of the undertaking by economising the waste spaces of the 
 river, or by opening new streets through poor neighbourhoods ; and,
 
 iii § 36. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 
 
 lastly, that all the cost of public improvemonts, of what kind soever, 
 should be defrayed by a local rate levied on the whole metro- 
 politan di=!trict. The committee divide the various plans proposed 
 into two classes, — 1st, tliose tliat can be recommended on the score 
 of pressing and immediate wants felt, and for the direct relief they 
 would afford ; and 2ndly, such as involve large and comprehensive 
 designs for effecting extensive improvements in the whole system 
 of metropolitan communication, and which therefore require to be 
 examined with the utmost care and circumspection. Sir Joseph 
 Paxton's plan for a grand gi die central railway and boulevard 
 under glas-^ is included in those mentioned, and the evidence and 
 designs of Sir Joseph are especially recommended. The embank- 
 ment of the Thames is also pronounced to be "a public improve- 
 ment too long delayed." There are also f cl^emes <or a street from 
 the Commercial-road to Holborn, and from Shoreditch to Piccadilly, 
 running parallel with Cheapside, Fleet-street, tlie Strand, and 
 Holboin, for widening the north side of St. Paul's Cathedral-yard, 
 and improving Holborn. Mr. Pennethorne (the governjiient archi- 
 tect) proposes to open a communication between " Tybumia" and 
 ^' Belgravia," through Kensington gardens, and to effect other alter- 
 ations, all tending to bring Westminster, Chelsea, and Belgravia 
 nearer to Oxford- street and the north-west of the metropolis. 
 Some of these recommendations will be carried out f-irthwith by 
 the newly-established Metropolitan Board of Works, whose duties 
 commenced (under an Act of Parliament) on the 1st of January, 1856.
 
 MODEKN LONDON 
 
 ll.-PALACES OF THE SOVEREIGN. 
 
 The Town Palaces avefoio' in number, viz., Buckingham Palace, 
 in which her Majesty resides; St. James's Palace, in which she 
 holds her Dra\A-ing-rooms ; the beautiful fragment of the 
 Palace of "NMiitehall, used as a Chapel Royal, but better 
 known as Inigo Jones's Banqueting-house ; and the Palace at 
 Kensington, in which her Majesty was born. 
 
 1. BUCKIXGHAM PALACE, in St. James's Park, was com- 
 menced in the reign of George IV., on the site of Buckuigham 
 House, by John Xash, and completed hi the reign of 
 William IV., but never inhabited by that sovereign, who is 
 said to have expressed his great dislike to the general appeai'- 
 auce and discomfort of the whole structvire. When the first 
 grant to George lY. was given by Parliament it vras intended 
 only to repair and enlarge old Buckingham House ; and 
 therefore, the old site, height, and dimensions were retained. 
 This led to the erection of a clumsy building, and was a mere 
 juggle on the part of the king and his architect — knowing as 
 they did that Parliament would never have granted the funds 
 for an entirely new Palace. On her Majesty's accession 
 sevei"al alterations were eflFected by Mr. Blore — a dome in 
 the centre, like a common slop-basin turned upside down, 
 was removed, and new buildings added to the S. ; her Majesty 
 entering into her new Palace on the 13th of July, 1837. 
 Other and more extensive alterations have since taken place 
 by the removal of a Marble arch, and the erection, at a cost 
 of 150,000^., of an E. front, under the superintendence of 
 Mr. Blore. The chapel on the S. side, originally a conser- 
 vatory, was consecrated in 1843. The Grand Stau-caso is of 
 white marble, with decorations by L. Griinei'. The Library 
 is genex-ally used as a "Waiting-room for deputations, which, 
 
 B
 
 "Z II. BUCKINGHAM PALACE, 
 
 as soon as tlie Queen is ready to receive them, pass across the 
 Sculpture-galleiy into the Hall, and thence ascend by the 
 Grand Staircase through an ante-room and the Green Draw- 
 ing-room, to the Thi'oue-room. The Green Drawing-room 
 opening upon the upper story of the poi-tico of the old build- 
 ing is 50 feet in length, and 32 in height. At state balls, to 
 which the invitations generally exceed 2000, those having the 
 entree alight by the temporary garden entrance, and the 
 general circle enter by the grand hall. All visitors, however, 
 are conducted through the Green Drawing-room to the 
 Pictiire Gallery and the Grand Saloon. On these occasions 
 refreshments are served in the Gai-ter-rooni and Green 
 Drawing-room, and supper laid in the principal Dining-room. 
 The concerts, invitations to which seldom exceed 800, are 
 given in the Grand Saloon. The Throne-room is 64 feet in 
 length, and hung with crimson satin, striped. The ceiling 
 of the room is coved, and richly emblazoned wdth arms; 
 here is a white marble frieze (the Wars of the Roses), 
 designed by Stothard and executed by Baily, R.A, The 
 Mews, concealed from the Palace by a lofty mound, con- 
 tains a spacious riding-school ; a room expressly for keeping 
 state harness; stables for the state horses; and houses for 
 40 carriages. Here, too, is kept the magnificent state coach, 
 designed by Sir W. Chambers in 1762, and painted by 
 Cipriani with a series of emblematical subjects; the entire 
 cost being 7661^. I65. 5f?. The stud of horses and the 
 carriage may be inspected by an order from the Master of 
 the Horse. The entrance is in Queen's-row, Pimlico. In the 
 Gardens is the Queen's summer-house, containing frescoes 
 (8 in number) from IMilton's Comus, executed in 1844-5, by 
 Eastlake, Maclise, Landseer, Dyce, Stanfield, Uwins, Leslie, 
 and Ross. The ornaments and borders are by Griiner. The 
 Queen has 325,000?. a year settled xipon her, of which 60,000?. 
 a year only is in her own hands ; the remainder is spent 
 by the Lord Chamberlain of the Household, the Lord 
 Steward of the Household, and other great officers attached 
 to the Court. The pictures were pi'incipally collected by 
 George IV., and include the choice collection of Sir Thomas 
 Baring. The Dutch and Flemish pictures, of wdiich the 
 collection chieflj^ consists, are hung together. They are 
 almost without exception first-rate works. The portraits 
 are in the State Rooms adjoining. Observe — 
 
 Albert Durer : An Altar Piece in three parts. — Mabuse : St. Matthew 
 called from the receipt of Custom.— Rembraxdt : Noli me Tangcre; 
 Adoration of the Magi ; The Ship-builder and his wife (veiy fine, cost 
 Georg-e IV. wh.en Prince of AVales,5000 guineas); Burgomaster Pancras
 
 II. — OPE^'ING OF PARLIAMENT. 3 
 
 and his Wife. — Ecckxs : Pythagoras, the fmit and animals by Snydees ; 
 A Landscape ; The Assumption of the Virgin ; St. George and tlie 
 Dragon ; Pan and Syrinx ; The Falconer ; Family of Olden Bameveldt. 
 — Van Dyck : Marriage of St. Catherine ; Chiist healing the Lame 
 Man; Study of Three Horses; Portrait of a Man in black ; Queen Henri- 
 etta Maria presenting Charles I. with a crown of laurel. — Mytens : 
 ■Charles I. and his Queen, full-length figures in a small picture. — Jansex : 
 Charles I. walking in Greenwich Park with his Queen and two children. 
 — N. Maes : A Young Woman, with her finger on her lip and in a 
 listening attitude, stealing down a dark winding Staircase (vei*y fine). — 
 Several fine specimens of Cuy'p, Hobbema, Ruysdael, A. Vaxcervelde, 
 Younger Vaxdeevelde, Paul Potter, Backhuysen, Beeguem, Both, 
 G. Douw, Karel Du Jap.dix, De Hooghe, METzr, (his own portrait), 
 F. Mieris, a. Ostade, I. Ostade, Schalkex, Jax Steex, Texiers, 
 Terburg, &c.— Sir Josuia Reyxolds : Death of Dido ; Cymou and Iphi- 
 genia; His own portrait, in spectacles. — Zoffasy: Interior of the 
 Florentine Gallerj' ; Royal Academy in 1773. — Sir P. Lelv : Anne Hyde, 
 Duchess of York.' — Sir D. Wilkie : The Penny Wedding ; Blind Man's 
 Buff; Duke of Sussex in Highland dress. — Sir W. Allax : The Orphan ; 
 Anne Scott near the vacant chair of her father, Sir Walter Scott. — 3Iode 
 of Admission to view thf Pictures: — order from the Lord Chamberlain, 
 gi-anted only when the Court is absent. 
 
 "WTieu Parliameut is opened, or prorogued, or dissolved, by 
 her Majesty iu pei'sou, the following is the order obseiTed : — 
 The Queen leaves Buckingham Palace at a quai-ter before 2, 
 being conducted to her carriage by the Lord Chamberlain 
 and the Vice-Chamberlain, and her Crovrn earned to the 
 House of Lords by one of the Lord Chamberlain's chief 
 officers. The State i^rocession includes a carriage drawn by a 
 set of bays, conveying -3 gentlemen ushers and the Exon in 
 waiting; a carriage drawn by a set of bays, conveying the 
 Groom iu waiting, the Groom in waiting to Prince Albert, and 
 the 2 Pages of Honour in waiting ; a caniage drawn by a set 
 of bay.s, convejdng the Equerry in waiting, the Equeriy iu 
 waiting to Prince Albert, and the Groom of the Kobes ; a 
 carriage drawn by a set of bays, conveying the Clerk Mai-shal, 
 the Silver Stick in waiting, the Field Officer in waiting, and 
 the Comptroller of the Household ; a carriage drawn by a set 
 of bays, conveying the Captain of the Yeomen of the Guard, 
 the Lord in waiting, the Loi-d in waiting to Prince Albert, 
 and the Treasurer of the Household : a carriage drawn by a 
 set of black horses, conveying the Lady in waiting, the Lord 
 Steward, the Gold Stick in waiting, and the Gi'oom of the 
 Stole to the Prince. Here the carriage procession is broken 
 by the Queen's Marshalmen, the Queen's Footmen in State, 
 and a party of the Yeoman Guard. Then follows the State 
 Coach drawn by 8 cream-coloured horses, conveying the 
 Queen, Prince Albert, the Mistress of the Pobes, and the 
 Master of the Horse. 
 
 2. ST. JA:\IES'S PALACE. An irregular brick building, 
 
 B 2
 
 4 II. — ST. JAMES S PALACE. 
 
 the only Loudou Palace of our Sovereigns from the burning 
 of "Whitehall, in the reign of William III.,, to the occupation 
 of Buckingham Palace by her present Majesty. It was first 
 made a manor by Heniy A^IIL, and was previously an hos- 
 pital dedicated to St. James, and founded for fourteen sisters, 
 '•' maidens that were leprous." When Henry altered or re- 
 built it, (it is ixncertain which.) he annexed the present Park, 
 closed it about with a v/all of brick, and thus connected the 
 manor of St. James's with the manor or Palace of Whitehall. 
 Little remains of the old Palace ; nothing, it is thought, but 
 the old, dingj, patched-up brick gateway towards St. James's- 
 street, contiguous to Avhich is the Chapel Royal, bearing, in 
 the chimney-piece of the old Presence-chamber, the initials 
 H. A. (Henry and Anne Boleyn). The Queen still holds her 
 Drawing-rooms in this Palace, fur the purposes of Avliich, 
 though not for a royal residence, it is particularly adapted. 
 In June, 1853, the carriages attending the Di\iwiug-room 
 extended into Harley-street. In the " Colour-court," (to the 
 E., and so called because the standai'd of the household 
 I'egiment on duty is planted within it), the Guards muster 
 every day at 11, and the band of the regiment plays for about 
 a quarter of an hour. The visitor should see this once. In 
 the Great Council-chambei-, before the King and Queen, the 
 odes of the Poets Laureate were performed and siuig. 
 Maiy I. died here. Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest son of 
 James I., died here. Charles II. was born here. Here 
 Charles I. took leave of his children the day before his execu- 
 tion; and here he passed his last night, walking the next 
 morning '•' from St. James's through the Park, gaiarded with 
 a regiment of foot and partisans," to the scaffold before White- 
 hall. Monk took up his quarters in " St. James's House," 
 while his plans for the Restoration were as yet undecided. 
 James II.'s son, by Mary of Modena, the old Pretender, was 
 born here. A contemporary plan of the Palace is dotted, with 
 lines, to show the way in which the child was said to have 
 been conveyed in the warming-pan to her Majesty's bed in the 
 Great Bed-chamber. Queen Anne (then the Pnncess Anne) 
 desciibes St. James's Palace '"' as much the properest place to 
 act such a cheat in."* Here died Caroline, Queen of George II. ; 
 and here George IV. was born. In the dingy brick house 
 on the west side of the Ambassadors' Court, or west quad- 
 rangle. Marshal Blucher was lodged in 1S14. He would fre- 
 quently sit at the drawing-room windows, and smoke and bow 
 to the people, pleased with the notice that was taken of him. 
 
 * The room in which the old Pretender was bom was pulled down 
 previous to the repairs in 1822.
 
 IT. — rRESENTATIOX AT COURT. AVHITEHALL. 5 
 
 Every information respecting the mode of presentation at 
 Court may be obtamed at the offices of the Lord Steward at 
 Buckingham Palace, aud of the Lord Chamberlain, in St. James's 
 Palace. Levees are restricted to gentlemen ; Drawing-rooms 
 are open to ladies (principally) and gentlemen. The days on 
 ■which they take place are advertised in the morning and 
 evening papers, with the necessary directions about carriages, 
 &c., some days iDefore. The greatest occasion in every year is, 
 of course, on Her Majesty's birthday (which is made a kind of 
 movable feast), but presentations do not take place on that day. 
 Any subject of Great Britain, who has been presented at 
 St. James's, can claim to be presented, through the English 
 ambassador, at any foreigii court. On the presentation of 
 Addresses to Her Majesty, no comments are suffered to be 
 made. A depiitation to present an Address must not exceed 
 four persons. Tickets to the corridor, affording the best 
 sight to the mere spectator, are issued by the Lord Cham- 
 berlain to persons properly introduced. For gentlemen to 
 be presented, it is absolutely necessary that their names, 
 with the name of the nobleman or gentleman who is to 
 l^reseut them, should be sent to the Lord Chamberlain's 
 office several days previous to presentation, in order that 
 the}^ may be submitted for the Queen's approbation, it being 
 Her Majesty's command that no presentation shall be made 
 at any Levees but in conformity with the above regulations. 
 Noblemen and gentlemen are also requested to bring with 
 them two large cards, with their names clearly written 
 thereon, one to be left with the Queen's Page in attendance 
 in the Presence-chamber, and the other to be delivered to 
 the Lord Chamberlain, who vrill announce the name to Her 
 Majesty. In the Chapel Royal, attached to the Pcilace, are 
 seats appropriated to the nobility. Service is performed at 
 8 a.m. and 12 noon. Admittance, 2s. ! The service is 
 chaunted by the boys of the Chapel Royal. 
 
 3. AVHITEHALL. The Palace of the Kings of England 
 from Henry VIII. to William III., of which nothing remains 
 but Inigo Jones's Banqueting-house, James II.'s statue, and 
 the memory of what vras once the Privy Garden, in a row of 
 houses, so styled, looking upon the Thames. It was originally 
 called York House ; was delivered and demised to Henry VIIL, 
 on the disgrace of Cardinal Wolse}-, Archbishop of York, and 
 then first called Whitehall. Henry VIII.'s ^^'hitehall was a 
 building in the Tudor or Hampton Court style of architec- 
 ture, with a succession of galleries and courts, a large Hall, a 
 Chapel, Temiis-court, Cockpit, Orchard, and Banqiteting-
 
 6 II. — WHITEHALL. 
 
 house. James I, iutendcd to have rebuilt the whole Palace^ 
 and luigo Jones designed a new "Wliitehall for that King 
 worthy of our nation and his owii great name. But nothing 
 was built beyond the present Banquetiug-house, deservedly 
 looked upon as a model of Palladian architectixre, and one 
 of the finest buildings in the whole of Loudon. Charles L 
 contemplated a similar recoustruction, but povei'ty at first 
 prevented him, and the Civil War soon after was a more 
 effectual prohibition. Chaxies II. preserved what money he 
 could spare from his pleasures to build a palace at Win- 
 chester. James II. Avas too busy about religion to attend to 
 architecture, and in William III.'s reign the whole of White- 
 hall, except the Banqueting-hotise, was destroyed by fire. 
 William talked of rebuilding it after Inigo's designs, but 
 nothing was done. Anne, his successor, took up her abode 
 in St. James's Palace, and Yaubi-ugh built a house at White- 
 hall out of the ruins — the hoxise ridiculed by Swift with 
 such inimitable drollery. The present Banqueting-house 
 was designed by Inigo Jones, between 1619 and 1C22. The 
 master-mason was Nicholas Stone, the sculptor of the fine 
 monument to Sir Francis Vere in Westminster Abbey. The 
 Hall is exactly a double cube, being 111 feet long, 55 feet 
 6 inches high, and 55 feet 6 inches wide. 
 
 King Charles I. was executed on a scaffold erected in front 
 of the Banqueting-house, towards the Park. The warrant 
 directs that he should be executed •• in the open street before 
 Whitehall." Lord Leicester tells xxs in his Journal, that he 
 was "beheaded at Whitehall-gate ; " Dugdale, in his Diaiy, 
 that he was ■'' beheaded at the gate of AVhitehall ; " and a 
 single sheet of the time, preserved in the British Museum, 
 that "'the King was beheaded at ^^Tiitehall-gate." There 
 cannot, therefore, be a doubt that the scaffold was erected in 
 front of the building facing the present Horse Guards. We 
 now come to the next point which has excited some discus- 
 sion. It appears from Hei-bert's minute account of the 
 King's last moments, that " the King was led all along the 
 galleries and Banqueting-liouse, and there was a passage 
 %roken throur/h the vjall, by which the King passed unto the 
 scafibld." This seems particular enough, and leads, it is 
 said, to a conclusion that the scaffold v,-as erected on the 
 north side. Wherever the passage was broken through, one 
 thing is certain, the scaffold was erected on the Avest side, or, 
 in other words, "in the open street,"' noAv called "\Miitehall : 
 and that the King, as Ludlow relates in his Memoirs, '• was 
 conducted to the scaffold out of the window of the Ban- 
 quetlfig-house.'" Ludlow, who tells us this, was one of the
 
 II. — Vv'IIITEIIALL. KENSINGTON PALACE. 7 
 
 regicides, and what he states, simply and strtiightforwardly, 
 is confirmed by au engraving of the execution, published at 
 Amsterdam in the same year, and by the following memo- 
 randum made by Vertue, on the copy of Terasson's large 
 engraving of the Banqueting-house, preserved in the libraiy 
 of the Society of Antiquaries : — " It is, according to the 
 truest reports said, that out of this window K. Charles went 
 upon the scaffold to be beheaded, the window-frame being 
 taken out purposely to make the passage on to the scaffold, 
 which is equal to the landing-place of the Hall within side." 
 The window marked by Yertue belonged to a small building- 
 abutting from the north side of the present Banqueting- 
 house. From this window, then, the King stept tipon the 
 scaflfbld. 
 
 The ceiling of the Banqueting-house is lin-ed witli pictures 
 on canvas, representing the apotheosis of James I., painted 
 abroad by Rtibens, in 1635. Kneller had heard that Rubens 
 was assisted by Jordaens in the execution. The sum he 
 received was 3000^. " What,'" says AValpole, " had the Ban- 
 queting-house been if completed ! Van Dyck was to have 
 painted the sides with the history and procession of the 
 Order of the Garter." To be seen at all, they must be 
 viewed from the south end of the apartment. Within, and 
 over the principal entrance, is a bust, in bronze, of James I., 
 by, it is said, Le Sceur. The Banqueting-house was con- 
 verted into a chapel in the reign of George I., and re- 
 altered as v>-e now see it, between 1829 and 1837, by Sir 
 Robert Smirke. It has never been consecrated. Here, on 
 every Maunday Thvirsday, (the day before Good Friday,) the 
 Queen's eleemosynary bounty (a very old custom) is distri- 
 buted to poor and aged men and women. 
 
 The statue of James XL, behind the Banqueting-house, 
 was the v/ork of GrinUng Gibbons, and was set up while the 
 King was reigumg, at the charge of an old servant of the 
 crovvii called Tobias Rustat. The King, it is said, is pointing 
 to the spot where his father was executed ; and this vulgar 
 erx'or, though exposed long ago, is still repeated. Nothing 
 can illustrate better the mild character of the Revolution of 
 1688, than the fact that the statue of the abdicated and 
 exiled King was allowed to stand, and still stands, in the 
 innermost court-yard of what was once his own Palace. 
 
 4. KENSINGTON" PALACE is a large and irregular edifice, 
 originally the seat of Heneage Finch, Earl of Nottingham 
 and Lord Chancellor of England; whose son, the second 
 earl, sold it to King William III., soon after his accession to
 
 8 III. — LAMBETH PALACE. 
 
 the throne. The lower portion of the building was part of 
 Lord Nottingham's house ; the higher stoiy was added by 
 V\^illiain III., from the designs of Wren, and the N.W. 
 angle by George 11. , as a Xursery for his children. William 
 III. and Queen jiary, Queen Anne, her husband Prince 
 George of Denmark, and King George II., all died in this 
 Palace. Her present Majesty was born in it, (1819,) and 
 here (1837) she held her first Council. The Duke of Sussex, 
 son of George III., lived, died, and had his fine library iu 
 this Palace. The Orangery, a very fine detached room, was 
 built by Wren. The last memorable interview between 
 Queen Anne and the Duchess of Marlborough took place iu 
 this palace. The collection of pictures (long famous and still 
 known as the Kensington Collection to the readers of Walpole), 
 has been removed to other palaces ; and the kitchen-garden has 
 recentlj' been built over with two rows of detached mansions, 
 called "Palace-gardens." The chief attraction inside is a 
 collection of eai-ly German art, formed, with taste and 
 knowledge, by his Royal Highness Prince Albert, to which 
 admission may be obtained by writing to one of the secre- 
 taries of Prince Albert. 
 
 !!l.-HOUSES OF THE PRINCIPAL NOBILITY AND 
 GENTRY. 
 
 LAIVIBETH PALACE, oi- LAMBETH HOUSE, on the S. 
 side of the Thames over-against the Palace at Westminster, 
 has been the palace of the Archbishops of Canterbuiy from at 
 least the 13th century, and contains various gradations in its 
 architecture, from Early English to late Perpendicular. The 
 Chapel, the oldest part, was built by Boniface, Archbishop 
 of Canterbury, (1244-70). It is Early English, with lancet 
 windows and a crypt. The roof is new. There is an oak 
 screen with the arms of Archbishop Laud, by whom it was 
 erected. Before the altar is the grave of Archbishop Parker, 
 (d. 1575). In this chapel all the archbishops have been con- 
 secrated since the time of Boniface. The stained glass 
 windows were destroyed in the Civil Wars, and are feelingly 
 lamented by Laud in the History of his Troubles. The glass 
 now in the windows was placed at the expense of the last 
 Archbishop (Howley). The Lollards' Tower at the W. end of 
 the chapel was built by Archbishop Chicholey, in the years 
 1434-45, and so called from the Lollards, who are said (incor- 
 rectly, it is now ascertamed) to have been imprisoned in it. 
 On the front facing the river is a niche, in which was placed 
 the image of St. Thomas; and at the top is a small room (13
 
 III. LONDON HOUSE. 9 
 
 feet by 12, aud about S feet high) called the prison, waius- 
 cotted with oak above an inch thick, ou which several names 
 and broken sentences in old charactei-s are cut, as '"' Chessam 
 Doctor," "Petit loiigauham," "Ihs cyppe me out of all el 
 compane, amen,'" " John Worth,'' '•' Xosce Teipsum," &c. The 
 large iron rings in the wall (eight in uumbei') seem to sanction 
 the supposed appropriation of the room. The Poht-room in 
 this tov.-er contains an ornamented flat ceiling, of uucomtnon 
 occui'rence. The Gate-house, of red brick, with stone dressings^ 
 is said to have been built by Archbishop Morton, Cardinal 
 and Lord Chancellor (d. 1500). The Hall, 93 feet by 38, was 
 built by Archbishop Juxon, the bishop who attended Chai-les I. 
 to the scaffold. Over the door (inside) are the arms of Juxon, 
 and the date 1663. The roof is of oak, with a louvre or 
 lantern in tbe centre for the escape of smoke. The v.dioie 
 design is Gothic in spirit, bvit poor and debased in its details. 
 The bay window in the Hall contains the o.i'ms of Philip II. 
 of Spain (the husband of Queen Mary) ; of Archbishops Ban- 
 croft, Laud, aud Juxon; and a portrait of Archbishop 
 Chicheley. Tlie Library, of about 25,000 voliimes, and 
 kept in the Hall, was founded bv Archbishop Bancroft (d, 
 1610); enriched by Archbishop" Abbot (d. 1633); and 
 enlarged by Archbishops Tenison and Seeker. One of its 
 gi-eatest curiosities is a MS. of Lord Rivers's ti^nslation of 
 The Dictes and Sayings of the Philosophers, containing an 
 illumination of the earl introducing Caxton, the printer (it is 
 said), to Edward lY., his Queen and Prince. The portrait of 
 the Prince (afterwards Edward V.) is the only one known of 
 him, and has been engraved by Vertue among the Heads of 
 the Kings. Of the English books in the library printed 
 before 1600, there is a brief but valuable catalogue by Dr. 
 Maitland, many years librarian. The whole habitable Palace 
 was erected by the last Archbishop (Howley) from the de- 
 signs of Edv/ard Blore, and contains a few good portraits, 
 such as Archbishop "Warham, by Holbein, (the picture really 
 from his hand,) Archbishop Tillotson, by Mrs. Beale. The 
 income of the Archbishop of Canterbury is 15,000/. a year. 
 The chrirch adjoining the red brick gateway of the Palace is 
 the mother-church of Lambeth ; here several Archbishops of 
 Canterbury are buried ; and here Tradescant and Ashmole 
 are interred — the former in the churchyard, with altar-tomb 
 (restored 1853), the latter in the chm-ch with grave-stone. 
 
 LOXDOX HOUSE, Xo. 22, St. James's Square, the resi- 
 dence of the Bishop of London. It has no arcliitectural 
 pretensions. The income of the Bishop is above 15,000^.
 
 10 III. — APSLEY HOUSE, 
 
 a year, but the bishop's successor Avill be fixed at 10,000/. 
 The house belongs to the See. 
 
 APSLEY HOUSE, Hyde Park Cokner. The Londou 
 residence, 1820—1 8 52, of Field Marshal the Duke of Wellmgton , 
 built by Henry Bathurst, Baron Apsley, Earl Bathurst, and 
 Lord High Chancellor, (d. 1794:,) the son of Pope's friend. 
 The house, originally of red brick, was faced with Bath stone 
 in 1828, when the front portico and the W. wing, coutainuig 
 on the upper stories a gallery 90 feet long, (to the W.,) were 
 added for the great Duke by Messrs. S. & B. Wyatt ; but the 
 old house is intact. The iron blinds — bullet-proof it is said 
 — put up by the great Duke during the ferment of the Reform. 
 Bill, when his windows were broken by a Loudon mob, — 
 were taken down in 1 855 by the present Duke. They were 
 the first of the kind, and have since been generally copied. 
 
 Observe. — George lY., fiiU-length, in a Highland costume {V,'ilkie). — 
 William IV., full-length (IFiV/.-Je).— Sarah, the first Lady Lyndhurst 
 ( Wilkie). This picture Avas peneti-ated by a stone in the Reform Riot, but 
 the injui-y has been skilfully repaired.— Emperor Alexander. — Kings of 
 Prussia, France, and the Netherlands, full-lengths. — Full lengtiis of 
 Lord Lynedocli, Marquis of Anglesey, Marquis Wellesley, &c. — Head 
 of Soult. — Tv,-o full length portraits of Napoleon, one consulring a map. 
 —Bust of Sir NYalter Scott (C/janire^).— Bust of Pitt (NoIkkmsY—'Bast 
 of Duke [NoUekms). —'&m&\\ bronze of Blucher (Eauch). — Battle of 
 Waterloo, Napoleon in the foreground (Sir W. Allan).' The Duke 
 bought this picture at the Exhibition ; he is said to have called it " good, 
 very good, not too much smoke." — Many portraits of Napoleon, one by 
 David, extremely good. — lVilkie's Chelsea Pensioners reading the Gazette: 
 of the Battle of Waterloo, painted for the Duke. — Burnet's Greenwich 
 Pensioners celebrating the Anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar, bought 
 of Burnet by the Duke. Portraits of veterans in both pictures. — Van 
 Amburgh and tlie Lions (Sir E. i««risee;-).— Higliland Whiskey Still 
 {Ditto). — Meet at Melton Mowbray (F. Grant). — Colossal marble statue 
 of Napoleon, by Canova, with a figure of Victory on a globe in his hand, 
 presented in 1817 to the Duke by the Prince Regent. -Bust of Pauline 
 Buonaparte (Ca?)oi--rt), a present from Canova to the Duke. — Christ on 
 the Mount of Olives (^o?Te<7^io,) the most celebrated picture of CoiTeggio 
 in this country; on panel, and captured in Spain, in the carriage of 
 Joseph Buonaparte; restored by the captor to Ferdinand YII., but with 
 others, under like circumstances, again presented to the Duke by 
 that sovereign. An Annunciation, after 31. Angela, of Avhich the 
 original drawing is in the Uflizj at Florence.— The Adoration of the 
 Shepherds (Sogliani).—T:\\Q Water-seller (Velasquez).— Tvro fine portraits 
 by Velasquez, (his own portrait, and portrait pf Pope Innocent X.) — 
 A fine Spagnoletti. — Small sea-piece, by Claude. — A large and good Jan 
 Steen (a Wedding Feast, dated 1667).— A Peasant's Wedding ( Tenfers).— 
 Boors Drinking (A. Ostade). — The celebrated Terhurg (the Signing the 
 Peace of Westphalia), from the Talleyrand Collection. Singularly enough, 
 this picture hung in the room in whicli the allied sovereigns signed the 
 treaty of Paris, in 1814. — A fine Philip Woiivermnns (the Return from the 
 Chase). — View of Veght, Vanderheyden. 
 
 The Crown's interest in the house was sold to the great Duke 
 for the sum of 9530.^ : the Crown reserving; a riprht to forbid
 
 III. — NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE, 11 
 
 tlic erection of any other house or houses on the site. 
 Marshal Soult, when anibassadoi* from France at the Queen's 
 Coronation, was entertained by the Duke in this house. The 
 room in which the Waterloo banquet was held eveiy 18th 
 of June is the great west room on the drawing-room floor, 
 with its seven windows looking into Hyde Park. 
 
 XORTHUMBEELAND HOUSE, Charing Cross, the 
 town-house of the Duke of Northumberland, (with rich cen- 
 tral gateway, surmounted by the Lion crest of the Percies,^ 
 and so called after Algernon Percy, Earl of Xorthumberland, 
 (d. 1668.) the subject of more than one of Van Dyck's finest 
 portraits. It Avas built by Henry Howai'd, Earl of North- 
 ampton, (son of Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, the poet.) 
 Bernard Jansen and Gerard Christmas beuig, it is said, his 
 architects. The Earl of Northampton left it, in 1614, to his 
 nephew, Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk, (father of the 
 memorable Frances, Countess of Essex and Somerset.) when 
 it received the name of Saffollc House, by which name it was 
 known until the marriage, in 1612, of Elizabeth, daughter of 
 Theophikis, second Earl of Suffolk, with Algernon Percy, tenth 
 Earl of Northumberland, who bought the house of James, Earl 
 of Suffolk, for 15,O00Z., and called it Noithumbei'land House. 
 Josceline Percy, eleventh Earl of Northumberland, (son of the 
 before-mentioned Algernon Percy,) dying in 1670, without 
 is5u.e male, Northumberland House became the property of 
 his only daughter, Elizabeth Percy, heiress of the Percy 
 estates, afterwards married to Charles Seymour, commonly 
 called the^:)mu(:Z Duke of Somerset. The Duke and Duchess 
 of Somerset hved in great state and magnificence in Northum- 
 berland House, for by this title it still continued to be 
 called, as the name of Somerset was already attached to an 
 older inn or London toAvn-house in the Sti'and. The duchess 
 died in 1722, and the duke, dying in 1743, was succeeded by 
 his eldest son, Algernon, Earl of Hertford and seventh Duke 
 of Somerset, created (1749) Earl of Northumberland, with 
 remainder, failing issue male, to Sir Hugh Smithson, 
 Bart., husband of his only daughter, which Sir Hugh was 
 i^ised to the Dukedom of Northumberland in 1766. The 
 present duke (1856) is the grandson of this Sir Hugh 
 Smithson, Duke of N. The house origuially formed three 
 sides of a quadrangle, (a kind of main body with wings,) 
 the fourth side remaining open to the gardens and river. 
 The principal apai-tments were on the Strand side; but after 
 the estate became the property of the Earl of Suffolk, the 
 quadrangle was completed by a side towards the Thames.
 
 12 III. DEVONSHIRE HOUSE. 
 
 The date, 1749, on the fa<;-ade, refers to the work of repara- 
 tion ; and the letters A. S., P. X., stand for Algernon )Somerset, 
 Princeps Xorthuiubria>. 
 
 Observe. — The celebrated Covnaro Family, by Titian. Evelyn saw it here 
 in 1658. It ha'* been much touched upon. St. Sebastian bound, on 
 the gi'ovmd ; in the air two angels : ii clear, well-executed picture, by 
 Guercino, -n-ith figures as large as life. A small Adoration of tlie 
 Shepherds, by Giacomo Bassano. Three half figures in one picture, 
 by Dohson, representing Sir Charles Cotterell, embjaced by Dobson 
 and Sir Balthazar Gerbier in a Avhite -svaistcoat. A Fox and a 
 Deer Hunt; two admirable pictures by Franz Smjders. A genuine 
 but ordinary Holy Family, by J. Jordaens. A pretty Girl, with a 
 candle, before which she holds her hands, by G. Schalk^Ji. The School of 
 Athens, after Baphad, copied by 2lcngs in 1755, and the best copy ever 
 made of this celebrated picture. View of Alnwick, by C'analetti,\-&\\.\a.h\{i 
 as showing the state of the building, circ. 1750: full-length portrait of 
 Edward VI. when a boy of six or seven, assigned to Mahuse, and curious 
 — he is in a red dress. A large and fine Buysdael. Josceline, 11th Earl 
 of Northumberland, by Wissing (oval). Portrait of Napoleon when First 
 Consul, by T. PliilUps, li.A., taken from repeated observation of 
 Napoleon's fiice. 
 
 All that is old of the present building is the portal towards the 
 Strand ; but even of this there is a good deal that is new. 
 The house is massively furnished and in good taste. The stair- 
 case is stately ; the Pompeian room most elegant, and the state 
 Drawing-room, with its ten lights to the E., and its noble 
 copies after Raphael, is a room which for magnificence is not to 
 be matched in London. Many of the fire-places, fenders, and fire- 
 irons are of silver. The large Sevres vase in the centre of the 
 great room was presented b}^ Charles X. to the late Duke when 
 rej^resentative of Great Britain at Charles's coronation in 1825. 
 
 DEVOXSHIRE HOUSE, Piccadilly. A good, plain, 
 v/ell-proportioned brick building, built by "William Kent, for 
 "William Cavendish, third duke of Devonshire, (d. 1755). It 
 stands on the site of Berl-ehy Bouse, destroyed by fire in 
 1733, and is said to have cost the sum of 20,000Z., exclusive 
 of 1000/. presented to the architect by the duke. Observe. — 
 Very fine full-length portraits, on one canvas, of the Prince 
 and Princess of Orange, by Jordaens. Fine three-quarter 
 portrait of Lord Richard Cavendish, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; 
 fine three-quarter portrait, in black dress, by Tintoretto ; 
 Sir'Thomas Browne, author of Religio Medici, and family, by 
 Dohmn ; fine male portrait, by Lely. Portrait of the Earl of 
 Bui'hngton, the architect, by Knellcr. The Devonshire Gems, 
 in a glass case, over fire-place — a noble collection. The 
 "Kemble Plays" — a matchless series of old English plays, 
 with a rich collection of the first editions of Shakspeare, — 
 formed by John Philip Kemble, and bought, for 2000/., at 
 his death, by the present duke, who has added largely to
 
 III. — STAFFORD HOUSE. 13 
 
 the collection,, aud annotated the avIioIc with hi.s own hand. 
 The poi-tico is modern, and altogether out of keeping witli 
 the rest of the building. The old entrance, taken down in 
 1840, was by a flight of steps on each side.. The magnifi- 
 cent marble staircase at the back of the house, with its glass 
 balustrade, was erected by the present duke. The parties at 
 Devonshire House are among the leading atti'actions of the 
 London season. The grand saloon (part of Kent's design) is 
 decorated in the style of Le Bmn, and is now u.sed as a room. 
 The grounds extend to Lansdowne House and the view from 
 the Drawing-room commands the trees in Berkeley-scpiare. 
 
 STAFFORD HOUSE, in St. James's Park, between St. 
 James's Palace and the Green Park, was built, all but the 
 upper story, for the Duke of York, (second son of George III.,) 
 with money advanced for that purpose bv the Marquis of 
 Stafford, afterwards fir.st Duke of Sutherland (d. 1833). The 
 Duke of York did not live to inhabit it, and the Crown lease 
 was sold in 1841 to the Duke of Sutherland, for the sum of 
 72,0001., and the purchase-money spent in the formation of 
 Victoria Park. The upper story was added by the present 
 duke. This is said to be the finest private mansion in the 
 metropolis. Nothing can compete with it in size, taste, or de- 
 coration. The great dining-room is worthy of Versailles. The 
 internal arrangements Avere planned by Sir Charles Bariy. 
 The pictures, too, are very fine ; but the collection distributed 
 throughout the house is private, to which admission is 
 obtained only by the express invitation or pennLssion of the 
 duke. The Sutherland Gallery, as it is called, is a noble 
 room, 126 feet long by 32 feet wide. Observe — 
 
 Raphael : Christ bearing Lis Cross ; a small full-length figure, seen 
 against a sky back-ground between two pilasters adorned with arabesques; 
 said to have been brought from a private chapel of the Pope in the 
 Ricciardi Palace at Florence. — GriDo : Head of the Magdalen ; Study for 
 the large picture of Atalanta in the Eoyal Palace at Naples ; the 
 Cii'cumcision. — Guercixo : St. Gregory: St. Grisogono ; a Landscape. — 
 Parmeoiano: Head of a Young Man (very fine).— Tixtoketto : A Lady 
 at her Toilet. — Titian : Mercury teaching Cupid to read in the presence 
 of Venus (an Orleans picture, figures life-size); St. Jerome in the 
 Desert; three Portraits. — Murili.o (5): Two from iLirshal Soult's 
 Collection : the Return of the Prodigal Son (a composition of nine figures] ; 
 Abraham and the Angels, cost 3000Z. — F. Zurbarax (4) : Three from 
 Soult's Collection (very fine). — Velasquez (2) : Duke of Gandia at the 
 Door of a Convent; eight figures, life-size, from the Soult Collection; 
 Landscape. — Albert Durer : the Death of the Virgin.— Hoxthorst : 
 Christ before Pilate (Honthorst's chef d'ceuvre], from the Lucca Collection. 
 — N.PoussiN (.3).— G. Poussix (1).— RuBEXs (4) : Holy Family; Marriage 
 of St. Catharine ; Sketch, «n grisaille, for the great picture in the Louvre, 
 of the Marriage of Henry IV. and Maiie de Medicis. — Van Dtck (4) ; 
 Three-quarter portrait of Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, seated in
 
 14 III. — NORFOLK HOUSE. — MONTAGUE HOUSE. 
 
 an arm-chair (very fins, and finely engraved by Sharp) ; two Portraits ; 
 St. Martin dividing his Cloak (in a circle). — Watteau (5): all fine. 
 — D. Texiers (2): a AVitch perfonuing her Incantations; Ducks in a 
 Reedy Pool. — Terburg : Gentleman bowing to a Lady (very fine). — Sir 
 Joshua Reyxold.s: Dr. Johnson without his Wig, and with his hands 
 up.— Sir D. Wilxie : the Breakfast Table (painted for the first Duke 
 of Sutherland).— Sir T. Lawrence: Lady Gower and Child (the 
 present Duchess of Sutherland, and her daughter, the present Duchess 
 of Argyll).— E. Bird, R.A.: Day after the ^Battle of Chevy Cha^^e.— 
 Sir E. Laxdseer, R.A.: Lord Stafford and Lady Evelyn Gower (now 
 Lady Blantyre).— W. Etty, R.A. : Festival before the Flood.— John- 
 Martin : the Assuaging of the "Waters. — Paul Delaroche : Lord Straf- 
 ford on his way to the Scafi'old receives the blessing of Archbishop Laud. 
 — Winterhalter : Scene from the Decameron. — A collection of 150 
 portraits, illustrative of French history and French memoirs. 
 
 The land on which Stafford Hoxise stands belongs to the 
 Crown, and the duke jDays an annual ground-rent for the same 
 of 7581. It stands partly on the site of Godolphin House, and 
 partly on the site of the Libraiy built by the Queen of George II. 
 At least 250,000^. have been spent on Stafford House. 
 
 XORFOLK HOUSE,, in the S.-E. corner of St. James's 
 Square, was so called from the seventh Duke of Norfolk, 
 who died at his house in St. James's-square, April 2nd, 1701. 
 It was built by Payne. The interior is handsome, the first 
 floor consisting of a fine set of drawing-rooms toward the 
 square, terminated by a magnificent dining-hall, lined with 
 mirror.s, the roof of v/hich is very rich and beautiful. The 
 arrangements of the house are not such as will allow of its 
 being shown. In the I'ear is part of an older house in which 
 Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Alban, of the time of Charles II., 
 lived, and in which George III. was born. In it are preserved 
 the very valuable records of the great historical family of the 
 Howards, and of those of Fitzalan and jlowbray, v/hich have 
 merged into it. Observe. — Portrait of the First Duke of 
 Norfolk (Howard), three-quarter length, in robes, with a mar- 
 shall's staff in his hand, Holbein ; — portraits of Bishop Trieste, 
 and of Henrietta Maria, in a green dre3.s. Van Bych ; — portrait 
 of his wife, hj Rubens ; two veiy fine landscapes, hj Salv. 
 Rosa; the Crucifixion, a curious picture, by that rare master, 
 Lucas V. Leijde:i ; Family of the Earl of Arundel, the collector ; 
 small figures, by Mytens ; Shield given by the Grand Duke of 
 Tuscany to the ill-fated Heniy Howard, Earl of Surrey, at a 
 tournament in Florence, in 1537, painted in the style of 
 Perino del Vaga, 
 
 MONTAGUE HOUSE, Whitehall, a well placed, though 
 low and unimportant building, the town-house of the 
 Duke of Buccleuch, who inherits it from the noble family 
 of Montague. The site belongs to the Cro'vvn. Observe. —
 
 III. — GROSVEXOR HOUSE. 15 
 
 Some dark Liit good pictures by Van Dijrl- : viz. full- 
 length, of Duke of Hamiltou iu ai'mour (hand leaning 
 on a helmet), front face, buff boots, hair over forehead, 
 (veiy fine); full-length of Lord Holland, — slashed sleeves, 
 hair short on forehead ; full-length of Duke of Rich- 
 mond,* in complete black — yellow hair over shoulders, 
 brownish back-ground. Thirty-five sketches {en grisaille), by 
 Van Dycl; made for the celebrated series of portraits etched 
 in pai-t by Van Dyck, and published by Martin Vandeu 
 Enden ; they belonged to Sir Peter Lely, and were bought at 
 Lely's sale by Ralph, Duke of Montague. One of Canuletti's 
 finest pictures, a view of Whitehall, showing Holbein's gate- 
 way, Inigo's Banqueting-house, and the steeple of St. Martin's 
 in the Fields with the scaffolding abo\it it. A noble collec- 
 tion of English miniatures, from Isaac Oliver's time to the 
 time of Zincke. 
 
 GROSVEXOR HOUSE, Upper Grosvexor Street. The 
 to^wTi-house of the Marquis of "Westminster. The handsome 
 screen of classic pillare, with its double archway dividing the 
 court-yard from the street, was added in 1842. Here is the 
 Grosvenor Gallery of Pictures, founded by Richard, first Earl 
 Grosvenor, and augmented by his son, and grandson, the 
 present noble owner. Rubens and Claude ai'e seen to great 
 advantage. Observe — 
 
 Raphael (5) : but, according to Passavaut, not one by Eaphael's own 
 hand. — Murillo (3) : one a large Landscape with Figures. — Velasquez 
 (2) : his OTvn Head in a Cap and Feathers ; Frince of Spain on Horseback, 
 small full-length.— Titian- (3}: the Woman taken in Adultery, a 
 Grand Landscape; the Tribute Money. — Paul Yeeoxese (3): Virgin 
 and Child ; the Annunciation; Marriage at Cana ; small finished Study 
 for the Picture at Venice. — Guido (5) : Infant Christ Sleeping (fine, 
 engraved by Strange); LaFortuna; St. John Preaching ; Holy Family; 
 Adoration of the Shepherds.— Salvator Rosa (4) : one, his own Portrait. 
 — Claude flO) : all important, and not one sea-piece among them. — 
 N. Poussix (4) : Infants at Play (fine).— G. Poussix (3).— Le Brux (1): 
 Alexander in the Tent of Darius (finished Study for the large picture in 
 the Louvre).— Rembraxdt (7) : his own Portrait; Portrait of Berghem : 
 Ditto of Berghem's V^ife ; the Salutation of Elizabeth (small and very 
 fine) ; a Landscape with figures.— Rubexs (11) : Sarah dismissing Hagar ; 
 Ixion ; Rubens and his first v.ife, Elizabeth Brandt: Two Boy Angels; 
 Landscape (small and fine); the AVise lien's Oftering; Conversion of 
 St. Paul (sketch for Mr. Miles's picture at Leigh Court) ; Four Colossal 
 Pictures, painted when Rubens was in Spain, in 1629, and bought by Earl 
 Grosvenor, in 1810, for 10,000?.— Vax Dyck (2): Virgin and Child; 
 Portrait of Nicholas Laniere (this picture induced Charles I. to invite 
 Van Dyck to England). — Paul Potter (1) : View over the Meadows of 
 a Dairy Fann near the Hague, Sunset (fine).— Hobbema (2).- Gerard 
 Douv,- (1).— CuYP (4).— SxvDERs (2).— Texiers (3).— VAX Hl-ysam (1).— 
 Vaxdervelde (1). — WouvERMAXS (1): a Horse Fair.— Hogartu (2): 
 the Distressed Poet; a Boy and a Raven.— Sir Joshua Reyxolds (1) : 
 Mi's. Siddons, as the Tragic Muse, the original picture, cost 1760^
 
 16 III, — LANSDOWNE HOUSE. 
 
 (a masterpiece). — Gaikseoeougii (3), all very fine: the Blue Boy; tlie 
 Cottage Door; a Coast .Scene. — E. "Wilson (i) : View on the River Dec. 
 —B. West (5): Battle of La Ilogue; Death of General Wolfe; Wil- 
 liam III. passing the Boyne ; Cromwell dissolving the Long Parliament ; 
 Landing of Charles II. Admission — On Thiu'sdays between 2 and 5 in 
 tlie months of May and June, by order granted by the Marquis of 
 Westminster. 
 
 LAXSDOWXE HOUSE, on the S. side of Berkeley 
 Square, ^yas built by Eobeii Adam for the Marquis of Bute, 
 when minister to George III., and sold by the marquis, before 
 completion, to Lord Shelburne, aftenvards Marquis of Lans- 
 downe, for 22,000?., which was supposed to be 3000Z, less 
 than it cost, Priestley was living in Lansdovrae House as 
 librarian and philosophic companion to Lord Shelburne, 
 when he made the discovery of oxygen. The first cabinet 
 council of Lord Grey's administration was held in this 
 house; and here, at the same meeting, it was resolved that 
 Brougham shoidd be Lord Chancellor, The Sculpture 
 Gallery, commenced 1778, contains the Collection formed by 
 Gavin Hamilton, long a resident in Eome. At the E. end is 
 a large semicircular recess, containing the most important 
 statues. Down the sides of the room are ranged the busts 
 and other objects of ancient art. Observe. — Statue of the 
 Youthful Hercules, heroic size, found in 1790, with the 
 Townley Discobulus, near Hadrian's Villa ; Mercury, heroic 
 size, found at Tor Columbaro, on the Appian "Way. Here is 
 a statue of a Sleeping Female, the last work of Canova ; also, 
 a copy of his Venus, the original of which is in the Pitti 
 Palace at Florence. A marble statue of a Child holding an 
 alms-dish, by Bauch of Berlin, will repay attention. The 
 Collection of Pictures was entirely formed b}' the present 
 Marquis, since he came to the title in 1809. Observe. — St. 
 John Preaching in the Wilderness, a small eai-ly picture 
 by Rffphael; halflength of Count Federigo da Bozzola, by 
 Seh. del Piomho; full-length of Don Justino Francisco ISTeve, by 
 Munllo ; head of himself, head of the Count Duke d'Olivarez 
 ( Velasquez) ; two good specimens of Schidone ; Peg Woffing- 
 ton, by Hogarth; 12 pictures by 8ir Joshua Reynolds — 
 including The Sleeping Girl, The Strawberry Girl, Hope 
 Nursing Love, and the noble portrait of Laurence Sterne ; 
 Sir Eobert ^Yalpole, and his first wife, Catherine Shorter, by 
 Eckhart (in a frame by Gibbons — from Strawberry Hill); 
 full-length of Pope, by Jervas; Portrait of Flaxman, by 
 Jackson, R.A. ; Deer Stalkers returning from the hills 
 {E. Landseer): Italian Peasants approaching Rome (Eastlake) : 
 Sir Roger de Coverley and the Spectator going to Church 
 {C. R. Leslie) ; Sir Roger de Coverley and the Gypsies (ditto) :
 
 III. BRIDGEWATER HOUSE. 17 
 
 Oliviil's return to lier Parents, from the Vicar of Wakefield 
 {G. S. Neicton, E.A.); Macheath in Prison {ditto). Some of 
 these have recently been removed to Bowood in Wiltshire, 
 the country seat of the noble Marquis. The iron bars at the 
 two ends of Lausdowne-passage (a near cut from Curzon- 
 street to Hay-hill) were put up, late in the last century, in 
 consequence of a mounted highwayman, who had committed 
 a robbery in Piccadilly, having escaped from his pureuers 
 through this narrow passage, by riding his horse up the steps. 
 
 BRIDGEWATER HOUSE, St. James's, fronts the Green 
 Park, and was built 1846-51, from the designs of Sir Charles 
 Barry, for Francis, Earl of Ellesmere, great nephew, and 
 principal heir of Francis Egerton, Duke of Bridgewater. 
 The duke, djmig in 1803, left his pictures, valued at 150,000^., 
 to his nephew, the first Duke of Sutherland (then Marquis of 
 Stafford), with remainder to the marquis's second son, 
 Francis, noAv Earl of Ellesmere. The collection contains 47 
 of the finest of the Orleans pictures; and consists of 127 
 Italian, Spanish, and French pictures; 158 Flemish, Dutch, 
 and German pictures ; and 33 Enghsh and German pictures 
 — some 322 in all. 
 
 " There is a deficiency of examples of the older Italian and German 
 schools in this collection ; hut from the time of Raphael the series is more 
 complete than in any private gallery I know, not excepting the Lichten- 
 stein Gallery at Vienna. The Caracci school can nowhere be studied to 
 more advantage.' — Mrs. Jameson. 
 
 Observe. — (O. C. signifying Orleans Collection.) 
 
 Raphael (4) : la Vierge an Palmier (in a circle) ; one of two Madonnas, 
 painted at Florence in 1506 for his fiiend Taddeo Taddei, O.C ; la plus 
 Belle des Vierges, O.C. ; la Madonna del Passeggio, O.C; la Vierge au 
 Diademe (from Sir J. Reynolds's collection? if genuine). — S. del Piombo 
 (1); the Entombment.-— LriNi(l): Female Head, O.C. — Titian (4; : Diana 
 and Actseon, O.C, (very fine) ; Diana and Calisto, O.C, (veiy fine); the 
 Four ages of Life, O.C; Venus Rising from the Sea, O.C — Paul Ve- 
 KONESE (2) : the Judgment of Solomon ; Venus bewailing the death of 
 Adonis, O.C. — Tintoretto (3): Portrait of a Venetian Gentleman, O.C; 
 the Presentation in the Temple (small sketch) ; the Entombment, O.C 
 — Velasquez (3) : Head of Himself; Philip IV. of Spain (small full- 
 length) ; full-length of the natural son of the Duke d'Olivarez (life-size, 
 and fine).— Sal. Rosa (2) : les Augures (small oval, very fine).— Gaspar 
 PoussiN (4): Landscapes. — N. Poussin (S) : Seven called the Seven 
 Sacraments, O.C; Moses striking the Rock (very fine), O.C. — An. 
 Caracci (7) : St. Gregoi-y at Prayer; Vision of St. Francis, O.C; Danlie, 
 O.C; St. John the Baptist, O.C. ; same subject, O.C; Christ on the 
 Cross, O.C; Diana and Calisto, O.C. — L. Caracci (6) : Descent from the 
 Cros-s O.C; Dream of St. Catherine ; St. Francis; a Pieti; 2 Copies 
 after Correggio.— Domeniciiino (5).— Guido (2) : Infant Christ sleeping 
 on the Cross, O.C; As.sumption of the Virgin (altar-piece). — Guer- 
 CINO (2) : David and Abigail, O.C; Saints adoring the Trinity (study). 
 — Bekghem (5).— Rdysdael (6).— Claude (4): Morning (a little' picture i; 
 Morning, with the stoiy of Apuleius ; Evening, Moses befoi-e the Burning 
 
 C
 
 18 III. — CHESTERFIELD HOUSE. 
 
 Bnsli; Morning (composition picture).— REiir-EANDT (5): Samuel and 
 Eli; Portrait of Himself; Portrait of a Burgomaster; Portraitof a Lady; 
 Head of a Man. — Rcbens (3) : St. Theresa (sketch of the large picture in 
 the Museum at Ant-n-erp); Mercury bearing Hebe to Olympus; Lady 
 with a fan in her hand (half-length).— Vax Dyck (1) : the Virgin and 
 Child. — Backhuysen (2). — Cltp (6; : Landing of Prince Maurice at 
 Dort (the masterpiece of this artist).— Vaxdervelde (7) : Rising of the 
 Gale (ver^'fine); Entrance to the Brill; a Calm; Ttto Naval Battles; 
 a Fresh Breeze; View of tbe Texel. — Texiers (8): Dutch Kermis or 
 Village Fair (76 figures) ; Village Wedding; Winter Scene in Flanders, 
 the Traveller ; Ninepins; Alchymist in his Study ; T\\-o Interiors. — Jak 
 Steex (2): the Schoolmaster (veryfine); the Fishmonger.— A. Ostade (G) ; 
 Interior of a Cottage; La-*vyer in his Study; Village Alehouse; Dutch 
 Peasant drinking a Healtli; Tric-Trac; Dutch Courtship. — G. Douw 
 (3) : Interior, with his own Portrait (very fine) ; Portrait of Himself; 
 a Woman selling Herrings. — Terburg (1): Young Girl in white 
 satin drapery. — N. Maes (1): a Girl at Work (very fine). — Hoebema 
 (3).— Metzc (3). — Philip Wottverjians (4).— Peter'Wocvermaxs (1). 
 — Unknown (1) : the Chandos Portrait of Shakspeare, bought at the sale 
 at Stowe, in 1848, for 3.5.5 guineas; it belonged to Sir William Davenant 
 the poet, Betterton the actor, and Mrs. Barry the actress. — Dobson (1) : 
 Head of Cleveland, the poet. — Lely: Countess of Middlesex (elegant). 
 — Richard Wilson', R.A. (2). — G. S. Newtox, R.A. (1) : Young Lady 
 hiding her face in grief. — J. M. W. Tubxer, R.A. (1): Gale at Sea, 
 (nearly as fine as the fine Vandervelde in this collection, Rising of the 
 Gale). — F. Stone (1) : Scene from Philip Van Artevelde. — Paul Dela- 
 koche (1) : Charles I. in the Guard-room, insulted by the soldiers of the 
 Parliament. 
 
 The house stands on the site of what was once Berkshire House, 
 then Cleveland House, and aftenvards Bridgewater House. 
 
 Cards to view the Bridgewater Gallery can be obtained from 
 Messrs. Smith, 137, New Bond-street; Mr. Mitchell, .33, Old Bond-street; 
 Mr. Sams. 1, St. James' s-street ; H. Graves & Co., 6, Pall Mall ; Colnaghi 
 & Co., 13, Pall Mall Fast; Ackermann & Co., 96. Strand; Days of 
 admission, Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, from 10 till 5. 
 — Catalogues may be had at Messrs. Smith's, and at the Gallery. 
 
 CHESTERFIELD HOUSE, South Audley-stkeet, facing^ 
 Hyde Park, The town-house of the Earl of Chesterfield, but 
 let (1852) to the Marquis of Abercorn. It was built by- 
 Isaac Ware, the editor of Palladio, for Philip, fourth Earl of 
 Chesterfield, author of the celebrated Lettei-s to his Son, and 
 stands on ground belonging to Curzon, Earl Howe, The 
 boudoir was called by Lord Chesterfield the gayest and most 
 cheerful room in England, and the library the best. 
 
 "In the magnificent mansion which the earl erected in Audley-street, 
 you may still see his favourite apartments furnished and decorated as 
 he left them — among the rest, what he boasted of as " the finest room in 
 London," and perhaps even now it remains unsurpassed, his spacious 
 and beautiful library, looking on the finest private garden in London. 
 The walls are covered half way up with rich and classical stores of 
 literature ; above the cases are in close series the portraits of eminent 
 authors, French and English, with most of whom he had conversed ; 
 over these, and immediately under the massive cornice, extend all round 
 in foot-long capitals the Horatiau lines : —
 
 III. — HOLLAND HOUSE. 19 
 
 NUNC . VETEBCM . LIBRIS . XUNC . SOMNO. ET . IXEETIBUS . HOKIS. 
 DUCERE . SOLICIT.E . JUCUXDA . OBUVIA . VITiE. 
 
 On the raantel-pieces aud cabinets stand busts of old orators, inter- 
 spersed with voluptuous vases and bronzes, antique or Italian, and airy 
 statuettes in mai-ble or alabaster, of nude or seminude Opera nymphs. 
 We shall never recall that princely room without fancying Chesterfield 
 receiving in it a visit of his only child's mother— while probably some 
 new favourite was sheltered in the dim mysterious little boudoir 
 within — which still remains also in its original blue damask and fretted 
 gold-work, as described to Madame de Monconseil.'" — Quarterly Review 
 No. 152, p. 484. 
 
 Lord Chesterfield, in his Letters to his Son, speaks of the 
 Canonical pillars of his house, meaning the columns brought 
 from Cannons, the seat of the Duke of Chandos. The grand 
 staircase came from the same magnificent house. Observe. — 
 Portrait of the poet Spenser ; Sir Thomas Lawrence's un- 
 finished poi'trait of himself; and a lantern of copper-gilt for 
 18 candles, bought by the Earl of Chesterfield at the sale at 
 Houghton, the seat of Sir Eobert Walpole. Stanhope-street, 
 adjoiniijg the house (also built by Lord Chesterfield), stands 
 on ground belonging to the Dean and Chapter of Westminster. 
 Lord Chesterfield died (1773) in this house, desiring by will 
 that his remains might be buried in the next burj'ing-place 
 to the place where he should die, and that the expense of 
 his funeral might not exceed 100^. He was accordingly in- 
 terred in Grosvenor Chapel, in South And ley-street, but his 
 remains were afterwards removed to Shelford in Notting- 
 hamshire. 
 
 HOLLAND HOUSE, Kensington, two miles from Hyde- 
 Park-corner (during the life of the late Lord Holland, the 
 meeting-place for Whig politicians, for poets, painters, critics, 
 and scholars), was built in 1607 (John Thorpe, architect) for 
 Sir Walter Cope, whose daughter and co-heir married Henry 
 Rich (second son of Robert, Earl of Warwick), created by 
 Kiug James L, Baron Kensington and Eai^l of Holland, and 
 beheaded (1649) for services rendered to King Charles I. 
 The widow of Robert Rich, Earl of Holland and Earl of 
 Yfarwick, was married, in 1716, to Addison, the poet, aud 
 here, at Holland House, occurred that " awful scene," as 
 Johnson has called it, with the Earl of Warwick, a young 
 man of verj- irregular life and loose opinions. '•' I have sent 
 for you," said Addison, " that yovx may see how a Christian 
 can die I " after which he spoke with difficulty, and soon 
 expired. On the death, in 1759, of Edward Rich, the last 
 Earl of Holland and Warwick, the house descended by- 
 females to William Edwardes, created Baron Kensington, 
 arid by him was sold to Henry Fox, first Baron Holland of 
 that name, and father of Chai-les James Fox. Lord Holland
 
 20 TII. BATH HOUSE. 
 
 died liere, July 1st, 1774. Din-iiig his last illuess, George 
 Selwyn called aud left bis card ; Sehvpi had a fondness for 
 seeing dead bodies, aud the dying lord, fully comprehending 
 his feeling, is said to have remarked, " If Mr. Selwyn calls 
 again, show him up ; if I am alive I shall be delighted to see 
 him, and if I am dead he would like to see me." The late 
 Lord Holland called on Lord Lansdowne a little before his 
 death, and showed him an epitaph, composed by himself 
 for himself. " Here lies Henry Vassall Fox, Lord Holland, 
 &c., who was drowned while sitting in his elbow-chair; "be 
 died in this bouse in his elbow-chair of water in the chest. 
 
 " It will be a great pity -wlieii this ancient house must come down, aud 
 give way to rows and crescents. It is not that Holland House is fine as 
 a building — on the contrary, it has a tumble-down look; and although 
 decorated with the bastard-gothic of James I.'s time, the front is heavy. 
 But it resembles many respectable matrons, who, having been abso- 
 lutely ugly during youth, acquire by age an air of dignity. But one is 
 chiefly aftected by the air of deep seclusion which is spread around the 
 domain." — Sir Walter Scott. 
 
 The stone gateway close to the house (on the east) was de- 
 signed by luigo Jones, and carved by Nicholas Stone, master- 
 mason to James L The raised terrace in front was made 
 in 1S47-48. "William IIL and his queen resided in Holland 
 House while negotiating for the purchase of what is now Ken- 
 sington Palace, 
 
 BATH HOUSE, Piccadilly, Xo, 82, corner of Bolton- 
 street. The residence of Lord Ashburton, built by Alexander 
 Baring, first Lord Ashburton (d. 1848), on the site of the 
 old Bath House, the residence of the Pulteneys. Here is a 
 noble collection of Works of Art, selected with great good 
 taste, and at a great expense. Pictures of the Dutch and 
 Flemish Schools form the main part of the collection. 
 
 Ohserve. — Thorwaldsen's celebrated ^Mercury as the Slayer of Argus. 
 " The transition from one action to another, as he ceases to play the 
 flute and takes the sword, is expressed with incomparable animation."' — 
 Waagen. — Leonardo da Vixci (?); the Infant Christ asleep in the 
 arras of the Virgin; an Angel lifting the quilt from the bed. — Luiki: 
 Virgin and Child.— Coereggio (?) : St. Peter, St. Margaret, St. Mary 
 Magdalene, and Anthony of Padua.— Giorgioxe : a Girl, with a veiy 
 beautiful profile, lays one hand on the shoulder of her lover. — Titiak: 
 the Daughter of Herodias with the head of St. John. — Paul Veronese: 
 Christ on the Mount of Olives (a cabinet picture). — Axxibale Caeacci: 
 the Infant Christ asleep, and three Angels. — Domexichino : Moses 
 before the Burning Bush. — Guercixo : St. Sebastian mourned by two 
 Angels (a cabinet picture). — Murillo : St. Thomas of Villa Nueva, as 
 a child, distributes alms among four Beggar-boys; the Madonna sur- 
 rounded by Angels; the Virgin and Child on clouds surrounded by 
 three Angels ; Christ looking^ up to Heaven. — Velasquez : a Stag 
 Hunt. — RuBExs : the Wolf Hunt^a celebrated picture painted in 1612. 
 '' The fire of a fine dappled grey horse, which carries Rubens himself, is
 
 III. — HOLDERNESSE HOUSE. 21 
 
 expressed yrith incomparable animation. Next him, on a brown horse, 
 is his first wife, Caroline Brant, with a falcon on her hand." — Waagen, 
 Rape of the Sabines ; reconciliation of the liomans and Sabines. 
 " Both these sketches are admirably composed, and in every respect 
 excellent ; few pictnres of Rubens, even of his most finished works, give 
 a higher idea of his genius." — Sir Joshua Beynolds. — Vaxdyck : the 
 Virgin Mary, with the Child upon her lap, and Joseph seated in a land- 
 scape looking at the dance of eight Angels ; Count Nassau in armour 
 (three-quarter size) ; one of the Children of Charles I. with flowers 
 (bust) ; Charles I. (full-length) ; Henrietta Maria (full-length).— Kesi- 
 BKANDT : Portrait of Himself at an advanced age; Portrait of a middle- 
 aged Man ; Lieven Yon Coppenol (the celebrated writing-master) with 
 a sheet of paper in his hand (very fine); two Portraits (Man and Wife). 
 — G. Dow : a Hermit praying before a crucifix. " Of all Dow's pictures 
 of this kind, this is carried the furthest in laborious execution." — 
 Waagen. — Terbueg : a Girl in a yellow jacket, with a lute. — G. Metzc: 
 a Girl in a scarlet jacket. •' In the soft bright manner of Metzu ; 
 sweetly tiiie to nature, and in the most perfect harmony." — Waagen. — 
 Netscher : Boy leaning on the sill of a Avindow, blowing' bubbles. " Of 
 the best time of the master." — Waagen. — A. Vanderaverff : St. Mar- 
 garet treading on the vanquished Dragon. — Jax Steex : an Alehouse, 
 a composition of thirteen figiu'es. "A real jewel." — Waagen. Playing 
 at Skittles. — De Hooghe : a Street in Utrecht, a Woman and Child 
 walking in the sunshine (very fine). — Texiees : the Seven Works of 
 Mercy: the picture so celebrated by the name of La Manchot; Portrait 
 of Himself (whole-length, in a black Spanish costume) ; Court Yard 
 of a Village Alehouse ; a Landscape, with Cows and Sheep. — A. Ostade : 
 (Several fine). — I. Ostade: Village Alehouse. — Paul Potter: Cows, 
 &c., marked with his name and the date 1652 ; Oxen butting each 
 other in play; the Church Steeple of Haarlem at a distance.— A. Vax- 
 dervelde: the Hay Harvest; Three Cows, &c. — Berghem : "Here we 
 see what the master could do." — Waagen. — Karel du Jardix : a Water- 
 mill. — Philip Wouvermaxs. — Cuyp. — Wyxaxts. — Rltsdael. — Hob- 
 bema. — W. Vaxuervelde : " la petite Flotte." — Backhuysex. — Vaxdek 
 Heyden : Market-place of Henskirk, near Haarlem. — Vax Huysam 
 Flower Pieces. — Holbein : a Head. — Sir Joshua Reynolds : Head of 
 Ariadne. 
 
 HOLDERNESSE HOUSE, Park Lane, town residence 
 of the Marquis of Londonderry, is oue of the most splendid 
 as well as conveuiently planned mansions in London (S. and B. 
 Wyatt, architects), and commands a charming rural view over 
 Hyde Park. It is remarkable also for several fine works of 
 art and vertu — some of them gifts of the Allied Sovereigns 
 to the second Marquis — vases and tables of malachite. The 
 grand galleiy is very magnificent. 
 
 Among the works of art are— Andrea del Sarto : a Holy Family, 
 probably the finest work by the master in this country, from Count Frier's 
 gallery;— a fine Titian.- Lawrexce: Portraits, whole length, of Lady 
 Londonderry ; of the Duke of Wellington in civil attire, 1814 ; of George 
 IV., his. — By Hdppxer: Wm. Pitt, three-quarter size the original. — 
 ? Hercules and Anta?us. 
 
 Statues. — By Canova : Theseus and the Minotaur, perhaps his most 
 splendid work. Ch antrey : Bust of the Minister, first Lord Londonderry. 
 — Four Statuettes of Rosso Axtico, of Victoiy— very fine:— gifts of Pop'e 
 Pius IV. to Lord Londonderry. — Kntghts Waterloo and Peninsular 
 Heroes: Sevres Vase, sLx feet high— gift of Louis XVIII
 
 22 HI. — SIR ROBERT peel's. 
 
 HARCOUET HOUSE, Cavendish Square, west side, 
 concealed hj a high and dilapidated brick wall, the 
 residence of Bentinck, Duke of Portland, father of the late 
 Lord George Bentinck, one of the richest of the English 
 aristocracy. It was built by Loi'd Bingley, and originally 
 called Bingley House. 
 
 HERTFORD HOUSE, Piccadilly, corner of Engine-street, 
 built (1850-53) by Richard Seymour Conwaj^ Marquis of 
 Hertford — the principal stone-work in the facade having 
 formed part of the old Pulteney Hotel, where the Emperor 
 of Russia j)ut up during the memorable visit of the allied 
 sovereigns in 1814, and where the Duchess of Oldenburgh 
 (the Emperor Alexander's sister) introduced Prince Leopold 
 to the Princess Charlotte. The gallery, 50 feet long, 25 feet 
 wide, and 34 feet high, is immediately above the dining-room, 
 and will contain many purchases made by the Marquis from 
 the finest portions of the galleries of the King of Holland 
 and Marshal Soult. Observe.— The Water-Mill, the chef- 
 d'osuiTe of Hohhema ; la Vierge de Pade, the masterpiece of 
 Andrea del Sarto; Portrait of Philippe and Portrait of Madame 
 le Roy, two noble specimens of VcmdycJc ; Holy Family, by 
 Rubens, bought at Mr. Higgiuson's sale in 1846, for 2478^. ; the 
 Unmerciful Servant, by Rembrandt, from Stowe, cost 2300?. 
 
 HOUSE OF SIR ROBERT PEEL, ^f.P. in Privy Gardens, 
 contains a very fine collection of Dutch, Flemish, and 
 English pictures, formed by the late Sir Robert Peel, at 
 great cost, and with extreme good taste. The collection 
 ornaments the walls of rooms in the daily occupation of the 
 family, and consequently cannot be very often shown to 
 strangers. The Diitch and Flemish Pictures, some 72 in 
 number, consist of 3 by Rembrandt ; 2 by Rubens (the 
 Avell-known Chapeau de Paille, bought by Sir Robert Peel 
 for 3500 guineas, and the Triumph of Silenus, bought for 
 llOOZ.); 2 by Van Dych, a Genoese Senator and his wife, 
 bought at Genoa by Sir David "Wilkie ; 7 by D. Teniers ; 
 2 by Isaac Ostade, one a Village Scene, very fine ; 1 by 
 A drian Ostade ; 1 by Jan Steen ; 1 by Terburg ; 2 by 
 G. Metzu ; 1 by F. Mieris ; 1 by W. M'leris ; 1 by G. Domo, 
 the Poulterer's Shop, fine ; 3 by Cuyp, one an Old Castle, 
 very fine ; 4 by Hohbema, one very fine, the ducks and 
 geese by Wyntrank, and the figures by Lingelback ; 2 by 
 De Eooghe ; 1 by Paul Potter; 3 by Ruysdael ; 2 by 
 Bachhuysen ; 1 })y Beryhem ; 1 by Gonzales Coques ; 3 by 
 Karcl du Jardln ; 6 by Wouvermans : 2 by Vandcr Heyden;
 
 III. — MR. hope's, 23 
 
 3 by^. Vandervelde, one a Calm, veiy fine; 8 by W. Vander- 
 velde ; 1 by F. Snyders ; 2 by Wynants ; 1 by Slingelandt ; 
 1 by Jan. Lingelhack ; 1 by Moucheron aud A. Vandervelde j 
 3 by Gaspar Netscher. The late Sir Robei-t Peel died (1850) 
 in the dining-room of this house — the room towards the river. 
 
 HOUSE OF HEXRY THOMAS HOPE, Esq., M.P. In 
 Piccadilly, at the corner of Down-street, bnilt 1848-49, from 
 the designs of M. Dusillon and Mr. Donaldson. The handsome 
 iron railing in front was cast at Paris, by Mons. J. P. V. Andre. 
 The cost of the Avhole building is said to have been 30,000?. 
 Mr. Hope is the possessor of the celebrated collection of 
 pictures (Dutch especially) formed at the Hague by the 
 family of the Hopes — aud described by Sir Joshua Reynolds 
 in his journey to Flanders and Holland in 1771. Observe : — 
 
 Vandyck : The Assumption of the Virgin. " A faint picture. She 
 is surrounded by little angels ; one of them is peeping archly at you 
 under a bundle of drapery, Avith which he has covered himself: this 
 comicalness is a little out of its place." — Sir J. JR. Charity. Virgin 
 and Child. '"A good but not important picture." — WoM,gen. — Rube.vs : 
 The Shipwreck of .Eneas ; the clouds in Mr. Turners manner. " Highly 
 poetical in the design, and executed in a most masterly manner in a deep 
 full tone.'"— IFaa^-eH. — Claude: Landscape. "An old veiy pretty copy 
 of the fine picture in the Dresden Gallery." — WoMgen.—^. Eosa : Laud- 
 scape.— Domexichixo : St. Sebastian.— GioRGioXE : Judith with the 
 Head of Holofenies.— Rembrandt: Young Woman in an Arm-chair by 
 which a Man is standing. " One of the rare family portraits of this 
 master in whole-length figures."— jraa-yew.— Backhuysen : Sea Piece 
 with Ships. " A large and capital picture." — Sir J. B. — Netscher : Lady 
 at a Window vritirParrot and Ape, marked 16G4.— Jax Steen : An 
 Oyster Feast, " in wliicli is introduced an excellent figure of Old Mieris, 
 standing with his hands behind him."— /Su- J. ^.— Lairesse : Death of 
 C'leopatra. "Her figure is well drawn, and in an attitude of great 
 grace ; but the style is degraded by the naturalness of the white satin, 
 ■which is thrown over her. A woman lies dead at the feet of the bed. 
 This picture is as highly finished as a Vanderwerf, but in a much better 
 style excepting the drapery, which is not equal to Vanderwerf. Van- 
 derwerf painted v,-hat may'be truly called drapery; this of Lairesse is 
 not drapery, it is white satin."— ,S('/- J. 7?.— Van der IIelst : Halt 
 ■of Travellers. " In Van der Heist's middle and best period."— TFaof^ew. 
 — Rejibraxdt : Our Saviour in the Tempest. " In this picture there is 
 a great effect of light, but it is carried to a degi-ee of affectation."— 
 Sir J. ff.— Terburg : The Music Lesson^fine) ; the Tmmpeter (fine).— 
 F. Mieris : A Gentleman with a Violin; a young Woman with her 
 back turned is making out the reckoning, marked 1660. " This picture, 
 painted when he was only twenty-six years of age, is one of his great 
 master-pieces." — Waagen. — Metzu : Woman reading a Letter. "The 
 milkwoman who brought it, is in the meantime drawing a curtain 
 a little on one side, in order to see the pictui-e under it, which appears to 
 be a sea view." — Sir J. B. Woman writing a Letter. — Schalken : Man 
 reading by Candlelight. "A carefully executed picture; the impasto 
 particularly good." — ]Vftagen. — Ruysdael : Landscape, Cattle and 
 Figures.- Verkoue: David and Bathsheba. — A. Vandervelde: 
 Cattle at a Watering-place ; an evening scene ; a wonderful picture : 
 perhaps the finest Adrian Vandervelde in the world. — P. de Hooge ;
 
 24 ITT. — MR. sheepshanks'. — BARON ROTHSCHILD's. 
 
 All interior, ■with Figures. " Spoiled by cleaning." — Waagen. — Weekix : 
 A Dead Swan and Dead Ilare. "Perfect every way; beyond Honde- 
 koeter." — Sir J. B. — VAVDERWEr.F: The Incredulity of St. Thomas. 
 "The drapery of St. Thomas is excellent; the folds long-continued 
 unite with each other, and are varied with great art." — Sir J. R. (On 
 the Screen). — D. Tkxiers : Soldiers playing at Backgammon. — G. Dow: 
 " A Woman at a Window with a Hare in her Hand. Bright c<douring 
 and well drawn : a dead cock, cabbage, and carrots lying before her. 
 Tlie name of Gerard Dow is written on the lanthorn wliich hangs on one 
 side."— ^iV J. B.—D. Texiees : Soldiers Smoking.— P. Potter : Exte- 
 rior of Stable — Cattle and Figures. — P. Wouvekmaxs : Halt of Hawking 
 Party (fine). — A. Ostade : Exterior of Cottage with Figures. — Hob- 
 BEMA : Wood Scenerj'. — Teeburg : Trumpeter -naiting (fiue). — Wou- 
 VERMAXS : Cavaliers and Ladies, Bagpiper, &c. " The best I ever saw." 
 — Sir J. R. — Metzt- : Lady in blue velvet tunic and white satin petti- 
 coat. — CuYP : Cattle and a Shepherd. " The best I ever saw of Inm ; 
 and the figure likewise is better than usual ; but the employment which 
 he has given the shepherd in his solitude is not veiy poetical." — 
 Sir J. R. — P. Gyzexs : Dead Swan and small Birds. " Highly finished 
 and well coloured." — Sir J. R. 
 
 Antiquities, Vases, &c. The antiques are, for the most part, unfor- 
 tunately much disfigured by indifferent restorations, and there is much 
 that was originally of little value. The vases consist of the second 
 collection made by Sir William Hamilton at Naples ; and among them 
 are several choice specimens. 
 
 Some of the pictures enumerated above have been removed, 
 it is understood, to Deepdeue, Mr. Hope's beautiful seat near 
 Dorking, in Surrey. I have, however, in a work of this 
 nature, preferred describing the best of every collection 
 recently in London. Mode of admission : by cards obtained 
 on personal introduction from the owner, on Mondays 
 throvighout the London season — April to July. 
 
 HOUSE OF JOHX SHEEPSHANKS, Esq. The large 
 detached house (the last on the S.W. side of Eutland 
 Gate, Hyde Park) was built by John Sheepshanks, Esq., 
 a distinguished patron of British art, who has here 
 assembled a choice and valuable collection of pictures by 
 modern British artists. The works of Leslie, E.A., and 
 Mulready, R.A., can nowhere be studied to greater advan- 
 tage. 
 
 Observe. — Highland Drovevs,,The Shepherd's Chief Mourner, Jack in 
 Office, The Breakfast— all by Sir E. Landseer ; Duncan Gray, and The 
 Broken Jar, by Sh- D. Wilkie ; Choosing the Wedding Gown,' The Butt, 
 Giving a Bite, First Love— all by Mulready, R.A. ; Scene from the 
 Merry AVives of Windsor, Katherine and Petruchio, Uncle Toby and 
 AVidow Wadman, all three by C. R. Leslie, R.A. Mode of Admission. — 
 A letter of introduction (the only mode). 
 
 HOUSE OF BARON LIONEL ROTHSCHILD, Picca- 
 dilly, contains a few fine pictures : good specimen of Ctiyp, 
 " Skating ; " a choice Be Hooqe, a good Grev.ze, Head of a 
 Girl, and The Pinch of Snuff, an early work of WilMe ; with
 
 III. DORCHESTER HOUSE. MR. MUNRO's. 25 
 
 a noble collection of hanaps, cups, &c., of fourteenth and fif- 
 teenth century work ; rare old china, fine carvings in ivory, &c. 
 
 DORCHESTER HOUSE, Park Laxe, Hyde Park, 
 residence of R. S. Holford, Esq. {Leicis ViiUiamy, architect). 
 Mr. Holford's house is not yet completed, hut his pictui-es 
 ai^e to be seen at Xo. Qo, Russell-square. Observe. — Very 
 fine specimen of Hobhema ; View of Dort from the River, by 
 Cuyp, veiy fine; good examples of Claude, Both, Isaac 
 Ostade, &c. : Columbus by WiUcie. Mr. Holford's country 
 house is at Westonbirt, Tetbiuy, Gloucestershire. 
 
 HOUSE OF H. A. J. MUXRO, Esq., Hamiltox Place, Pic- 
 cadilly, last house on right-hand side. 
 
 Obsene. — The Lucca Madonna and Child, bv BapJiael ; St. Francis 
 Praying, a small picture by Filippo Lippi ; Landscape by Gaspar 
 Fouxsvi, fine; Les Ueux Petites Marquises, half-lengths, size of life, 
 by Watteau, very fine: characteristic specimens of Jon Steen, one 
 "After a Repast," vnry clever; also, good, if not choice, specimens of 
 Cui^p, Vanderv.ld':, Barkhuysen, &c. Mrs. Stanhope, half-length, ia 
 white, by Sir Joshua Beynohls, very fine : 5 fine Latidscapes, by Pdchard 
 Wilton; large View in Venice, the masterpiece of Bonington ; The 
 Fishinarket, by Bonington; The Good Samaritan, by Etty,_ a choice 
 specimen: 2 fine Italian Landscapes, by Turner, in the best time of his 
 second period. {See Hints and Suggestions, p. xli.)
 
 26 IV. — HYDE PARK. 
 
 IV -PARKS AND PUBLIC GARDENS. 
 
 HYDE PARK. A park of 388 acres, deservedly looked 
 upon as one of the lungs of Loudon, couuectmg the Green 
 Park with Kensington Gardens, and thus carrying a con- 
 tinuous tract of open ground, or park, from Whitehall, to 
 Kensington. The whole Park is intersected with well-kept 
 footpaths, and the carriage drives are spacioiis and well at- 
 tended. The Park is accessible for private carriages, but 
 hackney-coaches and cabs are excluded. The triple archway 
 at Hj^de-Park-corner, combined with an iron screen, was 
 erected in 1828 from the designs of Decimus Burton. It cost 
 17,069/. Is. 9hd., including 1000?. to Mr. Henning for the 
 bas-reliefs from the Elgin marbles which surround it. The 
 Park derives its name from the Hyde, an ancient manor of 
 that name adjoining Knightsb ridge, and. until the dissolution 
 of religious houses in the reign of Henry VIIL, the property 
 of the abbots and monks of Westminster. For much of its 
 present beauty it is indebted to William III., and Cai'oline, 
 consort of George II. The iron railings have all been 
 erected since 1826. 
 
 In this Pai-k, in the London season, from April to July 
 {b)etween half past 5 and half past 6 p.m.), may be seen all 
 the wealth and fashion and splendid equipages of the nobility 
 and gentry of Great Britain. As many as 800, including the 
 Knot at the music, have been seen assembled at Hyde-Park 
 in the height of the season. The bridle-road, running east 
 and west (from Apsley House to Kensington Gardens) is called 
 Rotten Row, a coiTuption it is supposed oi Route du Roi — King's 
 Drive. The first set of horsemen are valetudinarians taking 
 their " constitutional" before breakfast ; to many of whom a 
 horse is a new acquaintance, and a saddle a new seat. At 
 eight the ride is sprinkled with the children and young ladies 
 of oiu' aristocracy, taking their lessons with papas, brothers, or 
 grooms. To these succeed, between half-past eight and ten, 
 leading counsel, hard-worked barristers and solicitors of
 
 IV. — HYDE PARK. 27 
 
 emineuce, some bankers, city mercliants, and retired officers, 
 increased by a few M.P.'s seeking fresh air after a night spent 
 under Dr. Reid's ventilator. Here the last night's debate, 
 the appointment to a vacant office, some point in Common 
 Pleas or Chancery, and general politics are discussed. As 
 these retire, down come the "Big "Wigs" of the law, on 
 their way to Westminster. The sheet of water called the 
 Serpentine was formed by CaroHne, Queen of George II. 
 The carriage-drive along the upper side is called "The 
 Lady's Mile." The boats may be hired by the hour. 
 Certain traces of the Ring, fonned in the reign of Charles I. 
 and long celebrated, may be recognised by the large trees 
 somewhat circularly arranged in the centre of the Park. 
 Xear the Humane Society's Receiving-house (on the 
 north bank of the Serpentine) is the great government 
 store of gunpowder. In this house upwards of one million 
 rounds of ball and blank ammunition are kept ready for 
 immediate use. A re\"iew of troops in Hyde Park is a sight 
 worth seeing, but reviews of late years have been of very 
 rare occurrence. They usually take place in June or July. 
 Observe. — Statue of Achilles, '•inscribed by the women of 
 England, to Arthur, Duke of Wellington, and his brave com- 
 panions in ai-ms," erected in Hyde Park, as the inscription 
 sets forth, " on the 18th of June, 1822, by command of his 
 Majesty George lY." The statue was cast by Sir R. West- 
 macott, R. A., fi'om cannon taken in the victories of Salamanca, 
 Vittoria, Toulouse, and Waterloo, and the cost was defrayed 
 by a subscription of 10,000/., raised among the ladies. The 
 figure is copied fi'om one of the famous antiques on the 
 Monte Cavallo, at Rome, but most antiquaries agree that 
 Achilles is a gross misnomer. The Marble Arch, facing 
 Great Cumberland-street (near where Tybm-n formerlj^ 
 Btood) was moved from Buckingham Palace in 1850 and 
 erected here in 1851. The original co.stwas 80,000Z., and the 
 cost of removal ll.OOOZ. The equestrian statue of George IV., 
 now in Trafalgar-square, was intended for the top of this 
 arch. S. fronf of arch by Baily ; N. by Sir R. Westmacott. 
 The Crystal Palace, or Great Exhibition Building stood on 
 the S. side of the Park, opposite Princes Gate, and the large 
 elm trees covered in by the transepts are still alive though 
 far from flourishing. During the twenty-foiu" weeks the 
 Exhibition was open, it was visited by upwards of 6,000,000 
 persons, or about 250.000 weekly. The receipts exceeded 
 400,000!?. On three consecutive shilling days the number 
 of visitors exceeded 100,000, and the receqDts 5000?. per 
 day.
 
 -HYDE PARK. 
 
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 IV. — ST. James's tark. 29 
 
 ST. JAMES'S PARK. A park of 91 acres (shaped not 
 imlike a boy's kite), originally appertaiuiug to the Palace of 
 St. James's; first formed aud walled in by Henry VIII.; re- 
 planted and beautified by Charles II.; aud finally ax'ranged by 
 George IV., much as we now see it, in 1827-28-29. What 
 I shall call the head of the kite is bordered by three of the 
 principal public offices : the Horse Guards in the centre, the 
 Admiralty on its right, and the Treasury on its left. The 
 tail of the kite is occupied by Buckingham Palace ; its north 
 side by the Green Park, Stafford House, St. James's Palace, 
 ^Marlborough House, Carlton-House-terrace, and Carlton 
 Ride; and its right or south side by Queen-square, and 
 the Welhngton Barracks for part of the Household Troops, 
 erected in 183-4. The gravelled space in front of the Horse 
 Guards is called the Parade, and formed a part of the Tilt 
 Yard of Whitehall : the north side is called the Mall, and the 
 south the Birdcage- walk. Milton lived in a house in Petty 
 France, with a garden reaching into the Birdcage-walk ; Nell 
 Gwyn in Pall Mall, with a garden with a mound and terrace at 
 the end, overlooking the Mall ; and Loi'd Chancellor Jefieries, 
 in the large brick house north of Storey's Gate, ^^-ith a flight 
 of stone steps into the Park. This celebrated Park, with 
 its broad gravel walks and winding sheet of water, was, 
 till the time of Chai'les II., little more than a grass park, 
 with a few ti'ees irregularly planted, and a number of little 
 ponds. Chai'les II. threw the several ponds (Rosamond's 
 Pond excepted) into one artificial canal, built a decoy for 
 ducks, a small ringfence for deer, planted trees in even 
 ranks, and introduced broad gravel walks in place of narrow 
 and winding footpaths. Charles I., attended by Bishop 
 Juxon and a regiment of foot (part before and part behind 
 him), walked, Jan. 30th, 1648-49, through this Park from St. 
 James's Palace to the scafibld at Whitehall. He is said on 
 Ms way to have pointed out a tree near Spi-ing Gardens, as 
 planted by his brother Prince Heniy. Here Cromwell took 
 Whitelocke aside and sounded the Memorialist on the subject 
 of a King Oliver. Some of the trees in this Park, planted 
 and watered by King Charles II. himself, were acorns from 
 the royal oak at Boscobel; none, however", are now to be 
 seen. St. Evremont, a French Epicurean wit, was keeper of 
 the ducks in St. James's Park in the reign of Charles II. 
 
 Observe —Fronting the Horse Guards, the mortar cast at 
 Seville, by order of Napoleon, employed by Soult at Cadiz, 
 and left behind in the retreat of the French army after the 
 battle of Salamanca. It was presented to the Prince Regent 
 by the Spanish government. I have been informed by an
 
 30 IV. — ST. James's park A^"D its vicinity. 
 
 Kivcr Thames- -■ •• >KS New Houses 

 
 IV. — GREEN PARK. 31 
 
 officer of the Royal Engineei's (often fired upon by this veiy 
 mortal') that the heaviest shell it carried weighed about 
 108 lbs., and that its extreme range was 6220 yards. The 
 same officer added, that he had seen a shell from tliis piece 
 of ordnance range into Cadiz, when the whole of that 
 splendid square, the Plaza de San Antonio, was crowded 
 with the rank and fashion of the place, and fall most accu- 
 rately in the centre of the square without injuring a single 
 individual. The ducks in the park belong to the Ornitho- 
 logical Society. The collection contains upwards of 300 birds, 
 including 21 species and 51 distinct varieties. The Park was 
 lighted with gas in 1822, The road connecting St. James's 
 Park with Hyde Park, and sku'ting the garden wall of Buck- 
 ingham Palace, now called Constitution Hill, was long kno'v\'n 
 as '•' The King's Coach-way to Kensington." It was in the 
 upper end of this road that Sir Robert Peel was thrown (1850) 
 from his horse and killed. In this road Queen Victoria has 
 been fired at by three idiots on three several occasions. 
 
 GREEX PARK. An open area of 60 acres between 
 Piccadilly and St. James's Park, Constitution-hill, and the 
 houses of Arlington-street and St. James's-place, It was occa- 
 sionally called Upper St, James's Pai'k, and was once much 
 larger, George III. reducing it in 1767, to enlarge the gardens 
 of old Buckingham House. The Green Park owes much of its 
 present beauty to the taste and activity of Lord Duncannon 
 (the late Earl of Bessborough), when chief Commissioner of 
 the Woods and Forests, during the Grey and Melbourne 
 administrations. Observe. — On the E. side of the Park, 
 Stafford House, the residence of the Duke of Sutherland; 
 Bridgeioater House, the residence of the Earl of Ellesmere; 
 Spencer House, the residence of Earl Spencer ; the brick house 
 with five wmdows, built in 1747, by Flitcroft, for the cele- 
 brated Lady Hervey; 22, St. James's-place (next a narrow 
 opening), distinguished by bow windows and a pink blind, 
 residence of the late Poet Rorjers ; Earl of Yarhorourjh's, in 
 Arlington street, built by Kent, for Henry Pelham. The 
 small gardens attached to the houses belong to the Crown, 
 but are let on lease to the owners. The sheet of water 
 on the north-east side, a reservoir belonging to the Cbelsea 
 Water-works Company, was filled up in 1856. In this park, 
 fronting the hoiLses in Arlington-street, was fought the duel 
 with swords, between Mr. Pulteney, afterwai'ds Earl of 
 Bath, and John, Lord Hervey, the Fanny of the poet Pope, 
 
 REGENT'S PARK, a park of 472 acres, part of old Mary-
 
 32 IV. — VICTORIA PARK. 
 
 lebone Park, for a long time disparked, aud familiarly known 
 as Maiylebone Farm and Fields. The present Park was laid 
 out in 1812, from the plans of Mi'. John Nash, Architect, who 
 designed all the terraces except Corn wall- terrace, which was 
 designed by Mr. Decimus Burton. The Park dei-ives its name 
 from the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV., who intended 
 building a residence here on the X.E. side of the Park. Part 
 of Regent-street was actually designed as a communication 
 from the Prince's residence to Carlton House, St. James's 
 Palace, &c. The Crown Property comprises, besides the Park, 
 the upper pai-t of Portland-place, from No. 8, — the Park- 
 cresceut and square, Albany, Osnaburgh, and the adjoining 
 cross streets, York and Cumberland-squares, Re^ent's-Park- 
 basin, and Augustus-street, Park-villages E. and W., and the 
 outer road. The Zoological Gardens occupy a large portion 
 of the upper end of the Park. The Holme, a villa in the 
 centre of the Park, so called, was erected by Mr. William 
 Burton, architect, who covered with houses the Foundling 
 Hospital and Skinner estates ; and erected York and Corn- 
 wall-terraces in this Park. Through the midst of the Park, 
 on a line with Portland-place, and along the E. side 
 of the Zoological Gardens, runs a fine broad avenue lined 
 with trees, and from which footpaths ramify across the 
 .sward in all directions, interspersed with ornamental planta- 
 tions ; laid out in 1833, and opened to the public in 
 1838. Around the Park runs an agreeable drive neai-ly two 
 miles Ion!?. An inner drive, in the form of a (drcle, encloses 
 the Botanic Gardens. Contiguous to the Inner Circle is 
 St. John's Lodge, seat of Baron Sir Isaac Lyon Guldsmid, 
 overlooking a beautiful sheet of water, close to which is the 
 garden of the Toxopholite Society. St. Dunstan's Villa, on the 
 south-west side of the Park, was erected by Decimus Burton, 
 for the late Marquis of Hertford (d. 18i2). In its gardens 
 are placed the identical clock and automaton strikers which 
 once adorned St. Dunstan's Church in Fleet-street. When 
 old St. Dunstan's was pulled down the giants were put up to 
 auction, and the marquis became their purchaser. They 
 still do duty in striking the hours and quarters. In the 
 chapel of St. Kaiherine's Hospital, on the E. side of the 
 Park, is the tomb of John Holland, Duke of Exeter (d. 1447), 
 aiid his two wives; and a pulpit of wood, the gift of Sir 
 Julius Caesar; both removed, in 1827, from St. Katherine's 
 at the Tower. 
 
 VICTORIA PARK, Bethnal Green, a park of 265 acres, 
 planted and laid out in the reign of the Sovereign whose
 
 IV. — REGENT S TARK, 
 
 33 
 
 ^ To Great 
 western Railway
 
 34 IV. — GREENWICH PAKK. 
 
 name it bears. The first cost of formation -was covered hy 
 the purchase-money received from the Duke of Sutherland, to- 
 %vhom the remainder of the Crown lease of York House, St. 
 James's, was sold in 18il for 72,000^. It is bounded on the 
 S. by the Lea Union Canal; on the W. by the Regent's 
 Canal ; on the E. by Old Foi-d-lane, leading from Old Ford 
 to Hackney "Wick ; and on the X. by an iiTegular line of 
 fields. It serves as a lung for the X.E. part of London, and 
 has already added to the health of the 550,000 inhabitants 
 of Spitalfields and Bethnal-green. 
 
 BATTERSEA PARK, a government Park on the banks of 
 the Thames, over against Chelsea Hospital ; now forming 
 pursuant to 9 and 10 Vict., c. 38. The estimated expen- 
 diture at the end of the session of 1852-3 was 30S,311Z. 145., 
 of which up to that time more than half had been expended 
 (174,498^. Is.). The vote for 1854 was 25.000?.; and votes 
 in future years to the amount of 72,2G2Z. will, it is said, 
 complete the expenditure and the park. The bridge over 
 the Thames leading to this park, and now in course of 
 formation, was designed by Mi'. Page. 
 
 GREENWICH PARK, a park of 174 acres, extending from 
 the high ground of Blackheath down to the Thames at 
 Greenwich Hospital, agreeably diversified with hill and dale, 
 and from "One Tree Hill'' and another eminence on which 
 the Royal Observatoiy is erected, commanding a noble view 
 of London and the river Thames. The Observatory was 
 established in the reign of Charles II., and Flamstead, Halley, 
 and Bradley, were the first three Astronomers Royal. The- 
 older portion of the building was erected from the de.signs 
 of Wren. The lower portion of the tower is the residence 
 of Mr. Airy, the present Astronomer Royal. " Greenwich 
 Time," celebrated over the world, is marked every day at 1 
 o'clock, by the dropping of a black ball about six feet in 
 diameter, surmounting the easternmost turret of the old 
 building, and acting in instantaneous communication with 
 the ball at Charing Cross, belonging to the Electric Telegraph 
 Company. Strangers are not admitted to the Observatory, 
 the Astronomical, Magnetical, and Meteorogical observations 
 conducted in the rooms requii'ing silence. The salary of the 
 Astronomer Royal is 800Z. a year, and the whole Observatory 
 is maintained at about 4000Z. a year. A trip dou-n the river 
 to Greenw^ich, a visit to Greenwich Hospital, a stroll in Green- 
 wich Park, and a dinner after at the Trafalgar Hotel or the 
 Crown and Sceptre, will be found a delightful way of passing 
 an afternoon, from 1, of a fine summer's day, till it is
 
 IV, — KEW BOTANICAL GARDENS. 35 
 
 time to retui'u home iu the cool of the evening. This 
 beautiful park — the Park of the Royal manor of Greenwich 
 — Avas i:)]aated, much as we now see it, in the reign of 
 Charles II. Le Notre, it is said, was the artist employed ; 
 but his name does not occur iu the accounts for the 
 plantations made by Charles IT. 
 
 RICHMOND PARK, 9 miles from London, and 1 from 
 the Station of the Richmond Railway : — the Park of the Royal 
 manor of Richmond, owing much of its present beauty to 
 King Charles I. and King George II. The principal entrance 
 is close to the Star and Garter Hotel. Be sure and enter by 
 this gate, keeping to the right (as you enter) for about half 
 a mile past Pembroke Lodge, the residence of Lord John 
 Russell. The view begins a few yards within the gate, is 
 stopped by the enclosure of Pembroke Lodge, but soon re- 
 appears. The view overlooking tlie Thames, is not to ba 
 surpassed. An afternoon afc Richmond and Twickenham, 
 and a dinner afterwards in the Coffee Room of the Star and 
 Garter, will make a capital pendant to a like entertainment 
 at Gi'eenwich. 
 
 KENSINGTON GARDENS. Pleasure-grounds aftached 
 to KensinrjiMn Palace (p. 7), and open to the public, but 
 not to be traversed by carriages. Tiie stranger in London 
 should, during the London season, make a point of visiting 
 these Gardens when the band plays. The Gardens are then 
 filled with gaily-dressed promenaders, and the German will 
 be reminded of the scene in the Pratei\ Every informa- 
 tion about the period when the barid plays may be obtained 
 of any of the lodge-keepers at Hyde Park or Kensington 
 Gardens. The band belongs to the regiment stationed afc 
 the Knightsbridge barracks. Kensington Gai'dens v/ere laid 
 out in the reign of William III., by London and "Wise, and 
 oi-iginally consisted of only 26 acres ; Queen Anne added 
 30 under Bridgeman's superintendence, and Caroline (Queen 
 of George II.) 300 under the care of Kent. The Serpentine 
 was formed 1730-33; and the bridge over it, separating the 
 Gardens from Hyde Park, was designed by Rennie, and 
 erected 1826. Tne beautiful wroughtiron gates at the 
 S.W. end of Rotten Row, were the entrance gates to the 
 S. transept of the Crystal Palace of 1851. 
 
 KEW BOTANICAL GARDENS, 5 miles from Hyde Park 
 Corner, on the road to Richmond. The gardens have been 
 laid out under the direction of Sir ^y. J. Hooker, the cele- 
 brated Botanist. The best wav of reaching Kew is by one of 
 
 D 2
 
 36 V. — HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 
 
 the White Richmond or red-coloured Kew Bridge omnibuses 
 that leave Piccadilly every qviarter of an hour — fare Is. ; and 
 the best account of the Gardens is Sir W. Hooker's own little 
 Handbook, to be purchased at the Gardens, price 6d. The 
 entrance is on Kew Green, by very handsome gates, designed 
 by Decimus Eurton. Visitors are obliged to leave baskets 
 and parcels with the porter at the gate. The Palm House, 
 the leading attraction of the Gardens, is 362 feet long, 100 
 feet wide, 64 feet high, and cost nearly 30,000^. Some of 
 the Palms have already reached the highest span of the 
 roof, and two were lowered, in 1852, into sunk compart- 
 ments, to retain them a few years longer. Here, too, the 
 Victoria Regia may be seen. 
 
 Among the hothouses — -that devoted to Cactuses is alouo 
 unrivalled for the rarity and variety of its contents. 
 
 Tlie Museum of Economic Botany, formed by Sir W. 
 Hooker, is filled with vegetable products, useful in the arts 
 and manufactures, most instructive and interesting. The 
 Arboretum and Pleasure Grounds are beautifully kept, and 
 most creditable to the present Director. In short, London 
 and its neighbourhood affords no more pleasing sight. The 
 Gardens are open daily. (See Hints and Suggestions, p. 1.) 
 Geutiemeu requiring good gardeners can occasionally obtain 
 them hero ; the Gardens at Kew forming a kind of horti- 
 cultural college, to which even foreign gardeners are con- 
 stantly seeking to be admitted. The salary of the Director 
 is 800/. a year. 
 
 V.-HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 
 
 THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, or The New Palace 
 AT Westminster, on the left bank of the Thames, between 
 the river and V\^estminster Abbey. This is one of the most 
 magnificent buildings ever erected continuously in Europe — 
 probably the largest Gothic edifice in the world. It occupies 
 the site of the old Royal Palace at Westminstei', burnt 
 down Oct. 16th, 1S31, and covers an area of nearly 8 acres. 
 The architect is Sir Charles Barry, and the first stone 
 was laid April 27tb, 1840. In its style and character the 
 building reminds us of those magnificent civic palaces, the 
 town-halls of the Low Countries, — atYpres, Ghent, Louvain, 
 and Brussels — and a similarity in its destination renders 
 the adoption of that style more appropriate than any form 
 of classic architecture. The stone employed for the external 
 masonry is a magnesian limestone from Anston in York
 
 Ipfc^^^^^v-^-^'— W-^J-^^
 
 aiiUU'MLi I'LAN OF THE NEW HOUSES OF PAULIAMENT. 
 
 SsIE CHARLES BARRY, U.A., AUCHITECI.
 
 V. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 37 
 
 shire, selected with great caie from the buikling stones 
 of England by commissioners appointed in 1S39 for that 
 purpose. The River Ten-ace is of Aberdeen gi-anite. 
 There is very little wood about the building ; all the main 
 beams and joists arc of iron ; and the Houses of Pailiament, 
 it is said, can never be burnt down again. The E., or the 
 River Front, may be considered the principal. This magni- 
 ficent fagade, 900 feet in length, is divided into five principal 
 compartments, panelled with tracery, and decorated with 
 rows of statues and shields of arms of the Kings and Queens 
 of England, from the Conquest to the present time. The 
 AV. or Land Front is as yet in an imperfect state, but will, 
 it is believed, surpass in beauty and picturesqueness any of 
 the others, though, from the nature of the ground, it will 
 not be in an uninterrupted line. A new facade is to replace 
 the Law Courts, but is not yet commenced. 
 
 The Royal or Victoria T(jvcr, at the S.-W. angle, one of the 
 most stupendous works of the kind ever conceived, contains 
 the Royal Entrance, is 7o feet square, and Avill rise to the 
 height of 340 feet, or 64 feet less than the height of the cross 
 of St. Paul's. The entrance archway is Go feet in height, 
 and is covered with a rich and bcaiitifully worked groined 
 stone vault, while the interior is decorated witli the statues 
 of the patron saints of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and 
 w^ith a statue of her present Majesty, supported on either side 
 by figures emblematical of Justice and ilercy. This stately 
 tower (supplying what "Wren considered "Westminster was 
 so much in need ofj will not be finished till the building is 
 \evy near completion, the architect deeming it of importance 
 that tiie works should not proceed, for fear of settlements, 
 at a greater rate than 30 feet a-year. The Central Tower, 60 
 feet in diameter, and 300 feet high to the top of the lantern 
 surmounting it, rises above the Grand Central Octagonal 
 Hall. Its exquisitely groined stone vault is supported with- 
 out a central pillar. The Cloch Tower, abutting on "West- 
 minster Bridge, is 40 feet square, and surmounted above the 
 clock with a richly decorated belfry spire, rising to the 
 height of about 320 feet. Various other subordinate towers, 
 by their picturesque forms and positions, add materially to 
 the effect of the whole building. 
 
 The "Westminster Bridge end contains the apai-tments of 
 the Speaker and the Serjeant-at-arms, and the Vauxhall 
 Bridge end the apartments of the Usher of the Black Rod 
 and the Lords' librarian. Above these a long range of i-ooms 
 has been appropriated to Committees of either House. The 
 statues in and about the building will exceed in number 450.
 
 38 V. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 
 
 The principal public Entrances are through AYestmiuster 
 Hall, and Old Palace Yard, : — both lead into the Central 
 Octagon Hall, whence the right hand passage will take you 
 to the Lords, and the left to the Commons. This magni- 
 ficent Hall is covered with a groined roof, containing 
 upwards of 250 elaborately carved busses. Westminster 
 Hall, together with the ancient cloisters (now augmented 
 by an upper story and stair — a gem of florid Gothic archi- 
 tecture) and crypt of St. Stepliens Chcq-)el (the only remains 
 of the ancient Palace), have been skilfully incorporated 
 into the new building. Westminster Hall has been some- 
 what altered in detail internally, to make it accord with 
 the rest of the building. The architect has planned that the 
 walls, below the windows, should be decorated with a series 
 of historical paintings, and that there should be two tiers of 
 pedestals, to be occupied by figures of those eminent English- 
 men to whom Parliament may decree the honour of a statue. 
 The conception is grand, and appropriate to the building in 
 which so many Englishmen have been distinguished. 
 
 The Royal Entrance is under the Victoria Tower, and leads 
 to the Norman Porch, so called from the frescoes illustrative 
 of the ISTorman history of this country and the figures of the 
 Norman Kings, with which it is proposed to be decorated. 
 
 On tlie right hand is the Robing Room, a spacious apart- 
 ment in the south front of the building, intended to be fitted 
 up with much magnificence. After tlie ceremony of robing, 
 which takes place in this room, her Majesty passes througli 
 a magnificent chamber 110 feet in leugth, 45 in width, and 
 45 feet high, called the Royal Gallery, to be decorated Avith 
 frescoes illustrative of events from the history of England, 
 with windovrs filled with stained glass, and a ceiling rich in 
 gilding and heraldry. Passing thence, her Majesty enters the 
 Princess Chamber, to be decorated with equal splendour, and 
 thence into the House of Peers, 97 feet long, 45 wide, and 45 
 high, a noble room, presenting a coup cVcell of the utmost 
 magnificence, no expense having been spai'cd to make it one 
 of the richest chambers in the wx>rld. The spectator is hardly 
 aware, however, of the lavish richness of its fittings from the 
 masterly way in which all are harmoniously blended, each 
 detail, however beautiful and intricate in itself, bearing only 
 its due pai't in the general effect. Observe, in this noble 
 apartment, opened for the first time, April 15th, 1847. — The 
 Throne, on which her Majesty sits when she attends the 
 House, with the chairs for the Prince of AYales and Prince 
 Albert ; the Woolsack, in the centre of the House, on which 
 the Lord Chancellor sits ; the Reporters' Gallery (facing
 
 V, HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 39 
 
 the Throne) ; the Strangers' Gallery (immediately above) ; 
 the Frescoes (the first, on a large scale, executed in tlus 
 •country), in the six compartments, three at either end, viz.. 
 The Baptism of Ethelbert, by Mr. Dyce, R.A. (over the 
 Throne) ; Edward III, conferring the Oi'der of the Garter on 
 the Black Prince, and Henry, Prince of Wales, committed to 
 prison for assaulting Jud^e Gascoigne, both by Mr. Cope, 
 R.A.; the Spirit of Religion, by Mr. Hovsley, A.R.A., in the 
 centre compartment, over the Strangers' Gallery ; and the 
 Spirit of Chivalry, and the Spirit of Law, by 3Ir. MacUse, R.A. 
 The 12 figure windows are filled with stained glass, made by 
 Messrs. Ballanty ne and Allan, of Edinburgh, and Mr. Hardman, 
 •of Birmingham, and are lighted at night from the outside. 
 Between the windows, and at either end of the house, are 
 18 niches, for statues of the Magna Charta barons, carved by 
 Mr. Thomas, the able sculptor of the whole of the statues 
 throughout the building. Immediately beneath the windows 
 runs a light and elegant gallery of brass work, filled in 
 compartments with coloured mastic, in imitation of enamel. 
 ■On the soffits of the gallery (or cornice immediately beneath 
 the gallery) are the arms of the Sovereigns and Chancellors 
 of England, from Edward III. to the present time. 
 
 The great pi'ize for a lady is a card to the Strangers* 
 Gallery in the House of Lords when her Majesty opens, 
 prorogues, or dissolves Parliament. The opening of Parlia- 
 ment is genei"ally in February, the prorogation or dissolution 
 generally in July, On these occasions the gallery, which 
 directly fronts the throne, is set apart for untitled matrons 
 and maiden.s, who have no claim to a seat in the body of 
 the chamber. Failing to obtain this, a seat in the " Royal 
 Gallery," the splendid hall through which the procession 
 twice passes, atfords an admirable view of the Queen and her 
 great officers. Gentlemen as well as ladies are admitted 
 here. It is not etiquette to examine the Sovereign through 
 a lorgnette. To obtain a good seat you should be in the House 
 •of Lords by half-past 12, for the carriages of strangers are not 
 sufiered to pass the barriers later than one, and it is a crowded 
 •and dirty struggle to get to the House after that hour. The 
 arrival of her Majesty may be heard within the House from 
 the booming of the cannon. Her entrance is preceded by the 
 Heralds in their rich dresses, and by some of the chief officers 
 of state in their robes. The accommodation for gentlemen 
 is very limited : that for ladies very ample. Gentlemen sit 
 together, and the ladies sit together. All the peers are in 
 their robes. The Speech is presented to her Majesty by the 
 Lord Chancellor kneeling, and is read by her Majesty; the
 
 40 V. — HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 
 
 Mistress of tlie Robes aud one of the ladies of tbe bedchamber 
 standing by her side on the dais. Ti.e return to Buckingham 
 Palace is by 3 at the latest. The address to her Majesty in 
 both houses is moved at 5 the same evening ; and the debate, 
 therefore, is always looked to with great interest. The old 
 custom of examining the cellars underneath the House of 
 Loi-ds, about two houi's before her Majesty's arrival, still 
 continues to be observed. The custom had its origin in the 
 famous Gunpowder plot of 1605. 
 
 The House of Commons, G2 feet long by 45feetbi'oad, and 45 
 feet high, is more simple in character than the House of 
 Peers : — the ceiling is, however, of nearly equal beauty. The 
 windows are filled with stained glass, of a simple charac- 
 ter, to subdue an excessive glare ; the walls are lined with 
 oak richly carved, and, supported on carved shafts and 
 brackets, is a galleiy extending along them, on either side. 
 At the N. end is the chair for the Speaker, over which is a 
 gallery for visitors, and for the reporters of the debates; 
 while the S. end is occui:>ied by deep galleries for the 
 Members of the House, and for the public. The Entrance for 
 the Members is either by the public approaches, or a private 
 door and staircase from the Star Chamber Court (one of the 
 twelve Courts lighting the interior), so called from occupying 
 the site of that once dreaded tribunal. England and Wales 
 return 493 members, Ireland 105, and Scotland 53, making 
 in all 656 members composing the House of Commons. 
 
 ;S'.', Stephen^s Ball, leading direct from the Gi'eat Central 
 Hall is 95 feet long by 30 wide, and to the apex 
 of the stone groining 5Q feet high. It derives its name 
 from occupying the same space as St. Stephen's Chapel of 
 the ancient Palace, and is to contain 12 " statues of men 
 who rose to eminence by the eloquence and abilities they 
 displayed in the House of Commons." Six are erected : 
 Hampden, by Bell ; Falkland, by Folej/ ; Clarendon, by 
 Marshall; Selden, by Bell; Sir Robert Walpole, and Lord 
 Mansfield. The crypt of St Stephen's, mutilated more 
 by abuse than by the fire, still exists beneath, and, as a most 
 interesting example of English architecture of the IStli 
 century, has undergone a careful restoration. The walls 
 below the windows of *S'^. Stephen's Hall will contain frescoes, 
 and the windows stained glass. 
 
 Tlie Cloister Court, for the most part a restoration, is 49 feet 
 6 inches from east to west, and 63 feet from north to south. 
 
 The Upjper Waiting Hall, or Poets'' Hall, will contain 8 
 frescoes from 8 British poets — viz., Chaucer, Spenser, Shaks- 
 peare, Milton, Dryden. Pope, Scutt, and Byron. Four have
 
 V, — HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 41 
 
 been completed. The Chaucer, by C. W. Coj)e, JR.A.j repre- 
 senting a scene fromGriselda; the Shakspeare,by/.-R.i/c)-6c)-^, 
 E.A ., Lear and his Daughter ; the Milton, by /. C Horsley, Satan 
 starting at the touch of Ithuriers Spear ; and the Dryden, by 
 John Tetnikl, St. Cecilia. The artists for the other poets 
 have not as yet been named. The Queen's Robing-liooni will 
 contain the Legend of King Arthur, in fresco, by W. Byce, 
 li.A. The Peers' Robing-Room " Justice on Earth and. its 
 Development in Law and. Justice," by/. R. Hericrt, R.A.; 
 and the Peers' Corridor, "Charles I. ei-ecting his Standard 
 at Nottingham," by F. B. PidcersgiU, A. li.A.; and ''Speaker 
 Leuthall asserting the Privilege of the Commons, when 
 Charles I. attempted to seize the five members," hj Mr. Cross. 
 
 The Palace Clock in the ClocJc Tower, constructed under 
 the direction and approval of Mr, Airy, the Astronomer 
 Royal, will be an eight-day clock, and will strike the hours 
 on a bell weighing from eight to ten tons, chime the quarters 
 upon eight bells, and show the time upon four dials about 
 30 feet in diameter. The diameter of the dial at St. Paul's 
 is only IS feet. 
 
 Mode of Admission to Inspect the House of Lords — (see 
 p. xlvii.). Mode of Admission to the Strangers' Gallery to hear 
 the debates — a peer's order. When occupied in the hearing 
 of appeal cases the House is open to the public. Mode 
 of Admission to the Commons — a member's order. Any 
 member can give an order. If you know an M.P., go 
 to the lobby with the member's name written on your 
 card ; at the door of the House you will see a good- 
 tempered old gentleman, with a povrdered head, sitting in 
 a watch-box. If you civilly ask him, he will send your card 
 into the House, and thus fetch out the member you have 
 named. Take care to keep free from the thoroughfare to 
 the door, or you will be warned off by a policeman. Take 
 your scat before 5. On the night of an interesting debate 
 the House is seldom over befoi'e 2 o'clock in the morning. 
 Strangers and reporters used to be excluded during 
 divisions, but this practice was terminated in 1853, except 
 in regard to strangers occupying certain privileged seats, 
 and who still have to retire in division time. Ladies have 
 been excluded from the Strangers' Gallery since 1738. 
 There is, however, a small gallery (above that of the 
 Reporters), behind whose grating the ladies are invisible, 
 but, ib is complained, not inaudible. The Speaker takes 
 the chair at 5 p.m., when prayers are read, and business 
 commences. The House of Commons empties at 7 p.m., 
 and refills about 9 p.m. The best nights arc Mondays and
 
 42 VI. — THE THAMES. 
 
 Fridays. Ou Wednesdays tlie House sits from noon to 6 
 p.m. Unless forty members are present there is no House. 
 The cost up to Midsummer, 1855, was 1,663,954^., to which 
 Sir Charles asks for a further expenditure of 931,557^., to 
 comi^lete the building "in a fitting and proper manner." 
 
 KoTE. — For a detailed and graphic account of every likely proceeding 
 in the House of Commons, refer to an article in the Quarterly Review, 
 for June, 1854, from the pen of Mr. Shirley Brooks. 
 
 Vl.-THE THAMES AND ITS BRIDGES; THAMES 
 TUNNEL, POOL AND PORT OF LONDON. 
 
 The Thames, on whose banks London is situated, is the noblest 
 commercial river in the world; above, below, and at London, 
 it is, however, little moi'e than a common sewer, oscillating 
 with the tide ; about Richmond and Twickeuham, it is a 
 sweet flowi'jg stream; still higher up, about Pangbourue 
 (where you may catch some pleasing glimpses of it from the 
 Gi-eat Western Railway), it is pastoral and pretty; and at 
 the Xore and Sheerness, vrhere the Medway joins it, it is an 
 estuary where the British navy may sail, or ride safely at 
 anchor. The Thames rises in Gloucestershire, and passing 
 Oxford, Windsor, Hampton Court, Twickenham, Richmond, 
 Fulham, Chelsea, London, and Greenwich, falls into the 
 English Channel at a distance of 60 miles from London. At 
 very high tides, and after long easterly winds, the water at 
 London Bridge is very often brackish. Spenser calls it 
 " The silver-streaming Thames." Denham has svmg its 
 praises in some noble couplets — ■ 
 
 " O could I flow like thee, and make thy stream 
 My great example, as it is my theme ! 
 Though deep yet clear, though gentle yet not dull, 
 Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full." 
 
 And Pope described its banks with the accuracy of a Dutch 
 painter in his ludicrous imitation of Spenser's manner. 
 
 The bridges (three of which alone are toll free) were 
 built or opened to the public in the following order : — old 
 London Bridge, 1209 : Westminster Bridge, 1750; Blackfi-iars 
 Bridge, 17G9 ; Vauxhall Bridge, 1816 ; Waterloo Bridge, 1817; 
 Southwark Bridge, 1819 ; new London Bridge, 1831 ; and 
 Hungerford Suspension Bridge, 1845. The Thames Tunnel 
 was opened, 1813. The first steamboat seen on the Thames 
 was in 1816. The distance between Richmond Bi-idge and
 
 VI. — THE THAMES. 43 
 
 Westminster Bridge (14 miles 3 furlongs), was rowed with. 
 tide, July 31st, 1848, bj^ a Mr. Clayton, iu one hour forty- 
 three minutes and forty-five seconds. His bet was to row the 
 distance iu one hour and fifty minutes. 
 
 The London visitor should make a point of descending the 
 Thames by a steamboat from Chelsea to Blackwall (the woi'k 
 of an hour and a half), and of observing the following places, 
 principally on the left or Middlesex bank : — (L), Chelsea Old 
 Church ; Chelsea Hospital ; Vauxhall Bridge ; (rt.). Peni- 
 tentiary ; (1.), Lambeth Palace ; (rt.), church of St. John's, 
 Westminster, and Houses of Parliament ; "Westminster 
 Bridge; (1.), Board of Control ; Montague House ; Sir Robert 
 Peel's house in Privy-gardens (distinguished by its bay 
 windows ; the late Sir Robert Peel died in the diuing-rooni 
 of this house — the ground-floor facing the river) ; (I.), 
 Whitehall-stairs; the Great Coal Depot at Scotland-yard; 
 Huugerford Suspension Bridge ; (1.), York Watergate, one of 
 Inigo Jones's finest works ; the Adelphi Terrace (David 
 Garrick died in the centre house) ; Waterloo Bridge ; 
 (1.), Somerset House ; Temple-gardens, and roof of Middle 
 Temple Hail ; St. Bride's Church (the steeple one of Wren's 
 great works) ; (1.), Whitefriars, the site of Alsatia, now partly 
 occupied by enormous gas-woi'ks ; Blackfriars Bridge ; here 
 you have a very fine view of St. Paul's, and the city churches : 
 Observe how grandly Bow steeple, with its dragon on the top, 
 tov/ers above them all, and commands attention by the har- 
 mony of its proportions ; South wark Bridge ; here the right 
 or SuxTey side, commonly called the Bankside, becomes 
 interesting from its fine associations — here stood the Globe 
 Theatre, the Bear Garden, and Winchester House, and (rt.) 
 here is the church of St. Saviour's, South wark. You now 
 pass under London Bridge, and should observe, ([.), the 
 steeple of St. Magnus aud the Monument, Here begins the 
 Pool. Observe. — (1.), Traitors' Gate and the White Tower; 
 St. Katherine's Docks ; (rt.), Rotherhithe Church ; here you 
 j)ass over the Thames Tunnel ; (rt.), Greenwich Hospital, one 
 of Wx'en's great masterpieces; the Observatory at Greenwich ; 
 Blackwall Reach, &c, 
 
 " This morning was fair and briglit, and -vre had a passage thither 
 [from London to Gravesendj, I think as pleasant as can be conceived; 
 for take it with all its advantages, particularly the number of fine ships 
 you are always sure of seeing by the way, there is nothing to equal it in 
 all the rivers in the world. The yards of Deptford and Woolwich are 
 noble sights. . . . We saw likewise several ludiamen just returned 
 from their voyage. . . . The colliers likewise, which are very 
 numerous and even assemble in fleets, are ships of great bulk ; aud if 
 we descend to those used in tlie American, African, andEuropeau trades,
 
 44 VI. LONDOX BRIDGE. 
 
 and pass through those which visit our own coasts, to the small craft that 
 lie between Chatham and the Tower, the whole forms a most pleasinj^ 
 object to tlie eye, as well as higlily warming to the heart of an English- 
 man, who has any degree of love for his conntry, or can recognise any 
 effect of the patriot in his constitution."' — Fielding, A Voyage to Lisbon. 
 
 It is much to be wished that the side sewer and terrace 
 embankment scheme (so long talked about, and first pro- 
 jected by John Martin, the painter) may be carried out 
 before many year.s are over. By narrowing the current we 
 shall recover a large quantity of waste groiuid on each side, 
 and escape from the huge unliealthy mudbanks that disfigure 
 the river about Whitehall and Scotland-yard. The right to 
 the soil at the bottom of the river is now matter of action at 
 law, between Her Majesty's Government and the Lord Mayor 
 and Corporation of London. The Port of London, legally so 
 called, extends Q\ miles below London Bridge to a point 
 called Bugsby's Hole, over against Blackwall ; but the Port 
 itself does not reach beyond Limebouse. The strata of the 
 Thames near Blackwall shows alluvium 18 feet ; 45 feet 
 gravel; 68 feet London clay; about 109 feet of sand of 
 different desci'iptions; and the M'hole depth to the chalk is 
 237 feet from high water.* The average i-cturn of vessels 
 entering the Port of London is 7,000 British Vessels and 
 3,100 Foreign Vessels. The port of Liverpool is the next in 
 number to London ; the London tonnage amounting to about 
 900,000, and the Liverpool to 600,000. The largest amount 
 of tonnage of British Vessels entering the London port are 
 from Holland, Eussia, and France ; of Foreign from the 
 United States, Sweden, Denmark, and Norway. The Pool is 
 that part of the Thames between London Bridge and Cuckold's 
 Point, where colliers and other vessels lie at anchor. From 
 London Bridge to King's-Head-stairs at Rotherhithe, is called 
 the Upper Pool ; from King's-Head-stairs to Cuckold's Point, 
 the Lower Pool. It is said that no vessel of more than 300 tons 
 is seen navigating ahovc London Bridge. For some account 
 of the Docks, ?iee post, Commercial Buildings, &c., p. 61. 
 
 Every master of a collier is required, upon reaching 
 Gravesend, to notify the arrival of his vessel to the officer 
 upon the spot; and then he receives a direction to proceed 
 to one of the stations appointed for the anchorage of colliers. 
 There are seven of these stations on different Pleaches of the 
 river. The ships are then directed to proceed in turn to the 
 Pool, where about 250 are provided with stations in tiers, 
 at which they remain for a limited time to unload. 
 
 * Evidence of Mr. Walker, the engineer, before the "Westminster 
 Bridge Commission 1851. Answer 310.
 
 TI. — BLACKFRIARS BRIDGE. 45 
 
 LOXDOX BRIDGE, 928 feet long, of five semi-elliptical 
 arches, built from the designs of John Reuuie, a native of Scot- 
 land, and of his sons, John and George. The first stone was 
 laid June loth, 1825, and the bridge publicly opened by- 
 William IV., August 1st, 1831. It is built of granite, and is 
 said to have cost, including the new approaches, near two 
 millions of money. The centre arch is 152 feet L-pan, with a 
 rise above high-water mark of 29 feet 6 inches; the two 
 arches next the centre are 140 feet in span, with a rise of 
 27 feet 6 inches ; and the two abutment arches are 130 feet 
 span, with a rise of 24 feet 6 inches. The piers of the centre 
 arch luivc sunk about six inches, owing, it is said by Telford 
 and AValker, to over-piling. The lamp-posts are made from 
 cannon taken in the Peninsular War. It is the last bridge 
 over the Thames, or the one nearest to the sea, and is 54 feet 
 wide, or 11 feet more than Waterloo, the next to it in width 
 among Loudon bridges. 
 
 It has been ascertained that the nuraber of carriages of all 
 descriptions, and equestrians, who daily pass along London 
 Bridge between 8 in the morning and 8 in the evening, 
 exceeds 15,000 ; and that the number of pedestrians during 
 the same space of time who enter the city exceeds 13,000. 
 The number of persons who pass across the bridge daily is 
 not fewer than 50,000. — Commissioner of City Police, in Times, 
 Feb. 9, 1855. 
 
 The slow traffic travels at the sides, the quick in the 
 centre. This was commenced in 1854. 
 
 SOUTH WARK BRIDGE, 708 feet long, of three cast-iron 
 ai'ches, resting on stone piers, designed by John Reunie, and 
 erected by a public company, at an expense of about 800,000?. 
 The first stone was laid April 23rd, 1815 ; and the bridge 
 publicly opened April, 1819. The span of the centre arch is 
 240 feet (38 feet wider than the height of the Monument, 
 and the largest span of any arch in the world tmtil the 
 tubular bridges were made.) The entire weight of iron 
 employed in upholding the bridge is about 5780 tons. There 
 is a penny toll. 300,000?. has been offered for this bridge by 
 the Xorth Kent Railway Company, and refused.* The cost 
 of proper approaches would require (at the least) 150,000?. 
 more, and proper approaches are all but impracticable. It is 
 very ill placed. 
 
 BLACKFRIARS BRIDGE. The work of Robert Mylue, 
 
 * Sir. Tite, the architect. House of Commons Evidence on ^letro- 
 politan Communications, 1S55.
 
 46 YI. WATERLOO BRIDGE. 
 
 a native of Ediuburgli, aud originally called Pitt-bridge, by 
 ■way of compliment to the great Earl of Chatham. The first 
 stone laid Oct. 31st, 1760, and the bridge finally and generally 
 opened, Sunday, 'Nov. 19th, 1769. It consists of nine arches, 
 is 99.5 feet in length from wharf to wharf, and cost 152,480^. 
 3s. 10(/., — 163^. Zess than the original estimate. It was lowered 
 in 1837, and the open balustrade removed, so that it presents 
 very little of its original appearance, and having sunk con- 
 siderably, has but small claims to architectural consideration. 
 It is 42 feet wide. This bridge affords a stately and imposing 
 view of St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 HUXGERFORD SUSPENSION BRIDGE, called also 
 Charing-cross Bridge, crosses the Thames from Hungerford 
 Market to Belvedere-road, Lambeth, is 1352 feet long, and 
 is for foot-passengers only. It was constructed under the 
 direction of Sir I. K. Brunei, and opened April 18th, 1845- 
 It consists of three openings ; the span of the centre is 
 676 feet 6 inches, and that of each of the side openings 
 333 feet. The height of the roadway from high-water mark 
 is 22 feet 6 inches; at the piers, 28 feet; and in the centre^ 
 32 feet. The clear width of the roadway is 14 feet. The 
 piers are built on the natural bed of the river without piles. 
 The roadway is carried by four chains, in two lines, with 
 single suspension-rods on each side, 12 feet apart. The 
 chains pass over rollers in the upper part of the towers, so as 
 to equalise the strain, and are secured in tunnels at the 
 abutments to two iron girders, 44 feet long and 5 feet deep, 
 solidly embedded in a mass of brickwork in cement, further 
 strengthened and backed up with concrete. The span of the 
 central opening is greater than that of any suspension-bridge 
 in Britain. It is only second to the suspension-bridge at 
 Fribourg, in Switzerland, the span of which, from pier to 
 pier, is ueai'ly 900 feet. The first stone was laid in 1841 ;. 
 and the total cost, including the purchase of property, parlia- 
 mentary, law, and other expenses, was 110,000/, In 1845, 
 the bridge was sold to the original proprietors for the sum 
 of 226,000/., but only the first instalment was paid, and the 
 purchase was thus void. The toll charged is a halfpenny 
 each person each way. 
 
 WATERLOO BRIDGE, perhaps the noblest bridge in the 
 world, w^as built by a public company pursuant to an act 
 passed in 1809. The first stone was laid 1811, and the 
 bridge opened on the second anniversaiy of the battle of 
 Waterloo, June 18th, 1817. It is said to have cost above a 
 million. The engineer was John Rennie, son of a farmer at
 
 VI. WESTMINSTER BRIDGE. 4/ 
 
 Phantassie, in East Lothian — the engineer of many of our 
 celebrated docks and of the breakwater at Plymouth. 
 
 "Canova, when he was asked during his visit to England what struck 
 him most forcibly, is said to have replied — that the triunpery Chinese 
 Bridge, then in St. James's Park, should be the production ot the Govern- 
 ment, whilst that of "Waterloo was the work of a Private Companv." — 
 Quarterly Bevieio, No. 112, p. 309. 
 
 M. Dupin calls it " a colossal monument worthy of Sesostris 
 and the Caesars." It consists of nine elliptical arclies of 120 
 feet span, and 35 feet high, supported on piere 20 feet wide 
 at the springing of the arches. The bridge and abutments 
 are 13S0 feet long, the approach from the Strand 310 feet, 
 and the causeway on the Surrey side, as far as supported by 
 the land-arches, 766 feet. The bridge is, therefore, on a level 
 with the Strand, and of one uniform level throughout. This 
 bridge (it is 43 feet wide) affords a noble view of Somerset- 
 house, the cJtef-d'ceuvre of Sir William Chambers. The toll 
 charged is a halfpenny each person each way, and the receipts 
 fromfoot-passeugere in a half-year of IS 50 were 4676/. 17.5. llc^., 
 received from 2,244,910 persons, so that in one half-year the 
 population of London may be said to pay for passing over the 
 bridge. 
 
 WESTMINSTER BRIDGE, the second stone bridge over 
 the Thames at London, 1223 feet long, by 42 feet wide, and 
 built by Charles Labelye. a Swiss, naturalised in England. 
 The first stone was laid, 1739, and the bridge opened, 1750. 
 It consists of 15 arches, the centre being 76 feet wide, and is 
 built on caissons or rafts of timber, floated to the spot 
 destined for the pier.s, and then sunk, each containing 150 
 loads, of a form and size suitable to the pier. It was formerly 
 surmounted by a lofty parapet, which M. Grosley, a French 
 traveller, gravely asserted was placed there in order to pre- 
 vent the English propensity to siiicide ; but the real intention 
 of Labelye was to secure a sufficient weight of masonry to 
 keep his caissons to their proper level. The system, how- 
 ever, of building on caissons, though certainly ingenious, has, 
 in this case more especially, been found to be wholly erro- 
 neous. After the removal of old London Bridge, the bed of 
 the Tiiames on which the caissons rest became undermined 
 so much by the body of water and increased velocity of the 
 tide, that three of the piers gave way, and in 1S46' it wa.s 
 found necessary to close the bridge for caiTiages. Portions 
 of the enormous masonry about it were then removed, 
 including the lofty parapet, and the bridge itself at the same 
 time considerably lowered, three of the arches being sup- 
 ported by temporary centerings resting upon piles. The
 
 48 VI. — THE THAMES TUXNEL. 
 
 new bridge, on the same site, -will consist of seven arclies, and 
 ■will not cost more, it is said, than 235,000/. On the 8th of 
 June, 1853, passed over Westminster Bridge, 30G5 carts, 2305 
 cabs, 731 omnibuses, 638 carriages, and 341 horses; on the 
 same day 157 steamers passed under it. 
 
 VAUXHALL BRIDGE. An iron bridge, of nine equal 
 arches, over the Thames at Yauxhall, communicating with 
 Millbank on the left bank of the river, built from the designs 
 of James V/alker ; commenced Ma}- 9th, 1811, and opened 
 June 4tb, 1816. It is the property of a private company, 
 and the toll chai'ged is a halfpenny each person each way. 
 It is 798 feet long, and 36 feet wide, and is built on caissons. 
 
 THE THAMES TUNNEL is two miles below London 
 Bridge, and is easily reached bj'^ the numerous steam-boats 
 plying on the Tliames. It is 1200 feet in length, beneath the 
 bed of the river Thames, connecting "Wapping, on the left 
 side of the river, with Rotherliithe, or RedrifF. on the right. 
 This great work — a monument of the skill, energy, and enter- 
 prise of Sir Isambard K. Brunei (d. 1S19), by whom it was 
 planned, carried out through great difficulties, and finally 
 completed) — was commenced Mai*ch 2ud, 1S25, closed for 
 seven years by an inundation, which filled the whole tunnel 
 with water, Aug. 12th, 1828, recommenced Jan, 1835 (thou- 
 sands of sacks of clay being thrown into the i-iver-bed above 
 it), and opened to the public, jMarcli 25tli, 1813. The idea 
 of the shield, upon which Sir Isambard K. Brunei's plan of 
 tunnelling was foimded, was suggested to him by the opera- 
 tions of the teredo, a testaceovis worm, covered with a cylin- 
 drical shell, which eats its way through the hardest wood. 
 Brunei's shield (the great feature in the Thames Tunnel 
 operations) consisted of 12 seiDarate parts, or divisions, each 
 containing three cells, or 36 cells iu all. In these cells the 
 miners worked, protected by the shield above and in front, 
 and backed by the bricklayers behind, who built up as fast 
 as the miners advanced. Government lent 217,000/., in 
 Exchequer Bills, to advance the works, and the total cost is 
 said to have been about 611,000/, The yearly amount of 
 tolls and receipts is under 5000/., a sum barely sufficient to 
 cover the necessary expenditure, from the constant influx of 
 land springs. It belongs to a public company called the 
 Thames Tunnel Compam-. The descent and ascent are by 
 cylindrical shafts of 100 steps each, and the toll for foot 
 passengers is one penny each passenger. It has not been 
 rendered accessible for vehicles of any sort, omng to the 
 great cost of completing the approaches.
 
 VII. — THE FOREIGN OFFICE. 49 
 
 VII.-GOVERNMENT OFFICES. 
 
 THE TREASURY, Whitehall. A large rauge of buildiug, 
 between the Horse Guards and Downing-street, so called, 
 from its being the ofiBce of the Lord High Treasurer; an 
 oflB.ce of great importance, first put into commission in 1612, 
 on Lord Salisbuiy's death, and so continued with very few 
 exceptions till the present time. The prime minister of the 
 country is always First Lord of the Treasury, and enjoys a 
 salary of 5000/. a year, the same as the Chancellor of the 
 Exchequer, but smaller in amount than the salaries of the 
 Lord Chancellor and of the Lord Chief Justice. He has also 
 an official residence in Downing-street. All the gi-eat money 
 transactions of the nation are conducted here. The Lord. 
 High Treasurer used formerly to carry a white staff, as the 
 mark of his office. The royal throne still remains at the 
 head of the Treasury table. The present /(/j7a(Ze toward the 
 street was built (1846-47), by Sh- Charles Barry, to replace 
 a heavy and somewhat dowdy front, the work of Sir John 
 Soane. The shell of the building is of an earlier date, ranging 
 from Ripley's time, in the reign of George I., to the times 
 of Kent and Soane. The building called " the Treasury" 
 includes the Board, of Trade, the Home and Privy Council 
 offices. 
 
 PRIVY COUNCIL OFFICE, AYhitehall, is part of the 
 south end of the pi-esent range of Treasuiy buildings, as 
 altei'cd by Sir Charles Barry in 1847-48. Here are kept the 
 minutes of the Privy Councils of the Crown, commencing in 
 1540. A minute of the reign of James II. contains the 
 original depositions attesting the birth of the Prince of 
 "Wales, afterwards known as the Old Pretender. 
 
 THE HOME OFFICE, in which the business of the 
 Secretary of State for the Home Department {i.e. Great 
 Britain and Ireland) is conducted, is at Whitehall, in part of 
 the Treasury buildings. The salary of the Secretary is 
 5000/. a year, and his duty is to see that the laws of the 
 country are observed at home. His office is one of great 
 importance, and is always a Cabinet appointment. 
 
 FOREIGX OFFICE, Downing Street, Westminster, con- 
 sists of four very eld and shabby private houses, gradually 
 purchased at each side of the centre one ; two look into the 
 Park, two others front to Downing-street and back to Fludyex-- 
 street. The chief officer is a Cabinet Minister, and is called 
 the " Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs." His salary is 
 
 E
 
 50 VII. — WAR OFFICE. 
 
 5000?. a year. The Cabinet Councils of her Majesty'.? 
 Ministers are held at this office, in a room about wliich 
 workmen in 1840 had to be employed night and day to 
 prevent it from falling. 
 
 Passports are here issued to British subjects known to the 
 Foreign Secretary, or recommended by a banker, at a charge 
 of 7s. Qd. A day's notice is necessary. 
 
 THE COLONIAL OFFICE, 14, Downing Street, White- 
 hall, is a Government office for conducting the business 
 between Great Britain and her 44 colonies. The head of the 
 office is called the " Secretary for the Colonies," and is always 
 a Cabinet Minister. His salary is 5000?. In a small waiting- 
 room, on the right hand as you enter, the Duke of Wellington, 
 then Sir Arthur Wellesley, and Lord Nelson, both waiting 
 to see the Secretaiy of State, met the only time in their lives. 
 The duke knew Nelson from his pictures. Lord Nelson 
 did not know the duke, but was so struck with his conversa- 
 tion that he stept out of the room to inquire who he was. 
 
 THE EXCHEQUER, or, Office of the Chancellor of 
 THE Exchequer. Tlie principal office for fixing or receiving 
 taxes is in Downingstreet, Westminster, the last house on the 
 right-hand side. The word Exchequer is dei'ived from a four- 
 cornered board, about 10 feet long and 5 feet broad, fitted in the 
 manner of a table for men to sit about ; on every side whereof 
 was a standing ledge or border, 4 fingers broad. Upon this 
 board was laid a cloth, parti-coloured, which the French call 
 Chequy, and round this board the old Court of Exchequer was 
 held. The Chancellor was one of the judges of the Coui-t, 
 and in ancient times he sat as such, together with the Lord 
 Treasurer and the Barons. His duties since 4th William IV., 
 c. 15, are entireW ministerial; the annual nomination of 
 sheriffs being the only occasion on which the Chancellor takes 
 his seat at the Court of Exchequer in Westminster Hall. 
 The salary of the Chancellor is 5000?. a year, with a house 
 in Downing-street and a seat in the Cabinet. The income of 
 Great Britain and Ireland, paid into the Exchequer, has been, 
 for the last six years, upwards of 52 millions sterling. 
 
 WAR (Secretary of State for). Established dming 
 the war with Russia, 1853-56, when the offices of Secretary 
 of State for War (then imited with the Colonies), Secretary 
 for War, and Mastei'-General of the Ordnance, were united 
 (with other powers) in the Secretary of State for War. The 
 first Secretary was the Duke of Newcastle, the second (the 
 present, 1856) Maule, Lord Panmure. The offices of the
 
 VII. — INLAND REVENUE OFFICE. 61 
 
 Secretary are at Pembroke House, AVhitehall ; A\'ar Office, 
 at the Horse Guards ;. the old Ordnance Office, 86, Pall Mall, 
 to which Buckingham House (to the east) is about to be 
 added ; and (for the Commissariat Department) 4, New- 
 street, Spring Gardens. The several offices will be brought 
 together, it is said, at the old Ordnance Office, in Pall Mall. 
 
 Pembrohe House was built for the architect Earl of Pem- 
 broke (d. 1751.) The Horse Guards was built about 1753 by 
 Vardy, from a design by Kent, and. the main body of the 
 Ordnance Office, in Pall Mall, for the Duke of York (d. 1767), 
 brother of George III. {See Horse Guards.) 
 
 THE CUSTOM HOUSE is in Lower Thames-street, facing 
 ihe river. It was erected. 1814 — 17 from the designs of 
 David Laiug, but in consequence of some defects in the 
 piling, the original centre was taken down, and the present 
 front, to the Thames, erected by Sir Robert Smirke. Nearly 
 one-half of the customs of the United Kingdom are collected 
 in the Port of London, and about one-half of the persons 
 in the Civil Service of the country are employed in duties 
 connected with the collection. In London alone, upv/ards of 
 2230 persons are employed in and attached to the London 
 ■Custom Hou?e, and maintained at an annual expense of 
 about 275,000Z. ; Liverpool, after London, is the next great 
 port where the largest amount of customs is collected. The 
 average revenue collected by the Customs in the last nine 
 years is about 20 millions, and the duties are conducted b}' 
 commissioners appointed by the Crown. Seizures are stored 
 in the Queen's wai-ehouse, and when the warehouse is full 
 there is a public sale. These sales (some four a year) produce 
 about 5000/. They are principally attended by Jews and 
 brokers. The sales take place in Mark Lane, while the goods 
 are on view at a different place. Observe. — The '• Long- 
 Room," 190 feet long by 66 broad. The Quay is a pleasant 
 walk fronting the Thames. Hither Cowper, the pioet, came, 
 intending to make away with himself. 
 
 INLAND REVENUE OFFICE, or Excise, Stamp, Legacy 
 DUTY, AND Property-tax Office, is in Somerset House, and 
 occupies nearly one-half of the building. Malt, spirits, and 
 soap are the articles producing the most Excise-money to 
 the Exchequer. The duty of excise was first introduced into 
 this country by an ordinance of Parliament, of July 22nd, 
 1043, when an inipost v.^as laid upon beer, ale, wine, and other 
 provisions, for carrying on a war against the king. The 
 duties of the Inland Revenue Office have been consolidated 
 since 1848, when the business of the Excise office in Old 
 
 E 2
 
 52 VII. — POST OFFICE. 
 
 Broad-street was transferred to Somerset House. The new 
 facade opening into Wellington-street will form part of the 
 Inland Revenue Office. The total produce of the excise for 
 one year is estimated at 14 millions, of stamps at 6 millions, 
 and of property and income-tax at 5 millions. 
 
 OFFICE OF HER MAJESTY'S WOODS, FORESTS, 
 AND LAND REVENUES, 1 and 2, Whitehall-place. This 
 office is managed by two Commissioners. The forests have 
 not yielded a profit for many years, so that the chief i-evenue 
 of the office has been derived from the Crown property in 
 houses in the Bailiwick of St. James's, Westminster, and 
 in the Regent's Park. The principal forest belonging to the 
 Crov/n is the New Forest in Hampshire, formed by William 
 the Conqueror, and in which William Rufus was slain by 
 an arrow while hunting. 
 
 OFFICE OF HER MAJESTY'S PARKS, PALACES, 
 AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS, 12, Whitehall-place. Sir 
 Benjamin Hall is (1S56) the First (and responsible) Com- 
 missioner. 
 
 THE GENERAL POST OFFICE, near St. Paul's, Cheap- 
 side, and Newgate Street, stands on the site of the collegiate 
 church of St. Martin's-le-Grand, and was built 1825 — 29, from 
 the designs of Sir Robert Smirke, R.A. The ofl&ce is 
 managed by a Post-Master-General, and one permanent 
 Secretary (Rowland Hill, Esq.), together with a formidable 
 staff of clerks, sorters, letter-carriers, &c., amounting, in 
 1855-6 to 21,221 persons. It is a self-supporting institution ; 
 but since 1840 (when the penny -post was introduced) has 
 not as yet produced any revenue for the general pui-poses of 
 the Government. The estimated cost of management in 
 1855-6 amounted to 1,638,861?. The Government Postage 
 alone amounted in one year (ending 5th Januarv, 1853,) to 
 148,970/. 135. 7f?., of which the largest sum, 30,068/. 18*'. Ud., 
 was paid by the War Office, being nearly three times the 
 amount of the next largest payment, viz., that for the Foreign 
 Office. The number of letters delivered in the year 1852 
 amoxinted to 379,000,000, or five-fold the number delivered 
 before the reduction of the postage to one penny for every 
 •letter not exceeding half an ounce. At the present time 
 th e number of letters delivered in the London district, 
 comprising a radius of 12 miles round the Post Office in St. 
 Martiu's-le-Grand, is more than that delivered, under the old 
 sy s tern, in the whole L'nited Kingdom. Post- Office money-orders 
 for sums not exceeding 5/.. are issued at the several offices
 
 VII. POST OFFICE. 53 
 
 at the following rates : — For any sum not exceeding 21., 
 threepence ; above 21. and not exceeding U., sixpence. A 
 statement, called the Daily Packet List, of the arrival and 
 departure of packet-boats, of unclaimed letters, &c., is 
 published every morning, under the aixthority of the Post- 
 Master-General, and may be had of J. H. Kendall, the con- 
 tractor, 2 and 3, Phiipot Lane, Fenchurch-street ; the j-early 
 subscription to whicli (to be paid in advance) is 185. Letters 
 for departure the same night are received at this office later 
 than at any other office. Some notion of the extent of 
 business carried on in this hive of industry may be obtained 
 from the fact that the weekly wages of the London District 
 Post alone amount to 1300Z. a week. 
 
 As recently as 1826, there was but one receiving-office, in 
 Pimlico for letters to be delivered within the London radius ; 
 and the nearest office for receiving general post letters, that 
 a person living in Pimlico could go to, was situated in St. 
 James's-street. The introduction of mail-coaches, for the 
 conveyance of letters, by which the revenues of the Post 
 Office v^-ere so materially increased, was made by I\Ir. Palmer ; 
 and the first conveyance of the kind left London for Bristol 
 on the evening of the 24th of August, 1781. The penny 
 postage (introduced by the untiring exertions of Mr. Rowland 
 Hill) came into operation on Jan. 10th, 1840. Over against 
 the fa9ade of the Post Office is the Money Order Office of the 
 same establishment, with a staff of IGO clerks and upwards 
 of 1252 pigeon holes for the communications of the same 
 number of Money Order Offices throughout the United 
 Kingdom. The orders issued in the quarter ended June 
 30th, 1854, in England and Wales alone, were in number 
 1,110,409, and in amount 18,550^. 195. M. 
 
 In 1854 the average weight of the Post Office mail-bags 
 that left London daily was 279 cwt., of wliich 219 cwt. con- 
 sisted of newspapers. — {Mr. Coican, in the Times, May 1, 
 1855.) 
 
 General Directions. — Letters addressed '"'Post Office, 
 London," or "Poste Restante, London," are delivered only 
 at the window of the General Post Office, St. Martin's-le- 
 Grand. The hours of delivery from the Post Office windov/ 
 are from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. When the person applying for 
 letters is a foreigner, he must produce his passport, ^yheu 
 a foreigner does not apply in person, but by a messenger 
 despatched for that purpose, the messenger must produce 
 the passport of the person to whom the letters are addressed, 
 as well as a written ordei-, signed and dated b}^ such person. 
 In the case of a messenger being sent for the letters of
 
 .54 VII. — HORSE GUARDS. 
 
 more persons tliau one, he must produce imssports and orders 
 from eacii person. If the appliccint for the lettex's is a sub- 
 ject of the United Kingdom, he must be able to state from 
 what phice or district he expects letters before he can receive 
 them. Subjects of States not issuing passports are treated 
 as subjects of the United Kingdom. If lettei's are directed 
 to individuals simply addressed '•'London" (and not ''Post 
 Office," or " Poste Restante, London,'") they will not be de- 
 livered from the window at all, but will be sent out by 
 letter-carriers for delivery at the address furnished by the- 
 applicant. Foreign letters addressed " Post Office, or Poste 
 Restante, London," are retained for two months at the 
 Post Office vrindow. Inland letters similarly addressed are 
 retained one month at the window ; after the expiration of 
 these periods both classes of letters are respectively sent to 
 the Dead Letter-office, to be disposed of in the usual manner.. 
 All persons applying for letters at the Post Office window 
 must be prepared to give the necessary explanations to the 
 clerk at the window, in order to prevent mistakes and to 
 insure the delivery of the letters to the persons to whom 
 they properly belong. Business is facilit:ited if " to be called 
 for" is added to letters directed Post Office, London. The 
 Penny Queen's Heads are engraved, printed, and gummed at 
 5d. per thousand. 
 
 PAYMASTER-GEXERAL'S OFFICE, Whitehall. The> 
 office of her Majesty's Paymaster-General for the payment 
 of ai-my, navy, ordnance, civil services, and exchequer bills. 
 The office is managed by a jDaymaster, an assistant-paymaster, 
 and a staff of sixty clerks. It was originally the office of the 
 Paymaster-General of the Forces, and was not permanently 
 enlarged till 1836, when the offices of Treasurer of the Xavy 
 and Treasurer of the Ordnance were abolished. This office 
 is yearly increasing in imiDox'tance, and before veiy long will 
 make nearly all the national payments in detail, 
 
 HORSE GUARDS, at Whitehall. A guard-house and 
 i:)ublic building where the Commander-in-Chief, the Adjutant- 
 Genex'al, Quarter-Master-General, &c., have their offices. It 
 was built about 1753, after a design furnished, it is said, by 
 Kent. The archway under it forms a principal entrance to 
 St. James's Park from the east ; but the entice for carriages 
 is permitted only to royal and other personages having leave. 
 At each side of the entrance facing Whitehall two mounted 
 cavalry soldiers do duty every day from 10 to 4. The 
 gixard is relieved every morning at a qxiarter to 11. The- 
 salary of the Commandei"-iu-Chief is IC/. Ss. 9(Z. a day; of the
 
 Vir. — THE ADMIRALTY. 55 
 
 Adjutant-General, U. 10s. a day; and of the Quarter-Master- 
 Geueral, 3^. 15?. 10c?. a day, with an allowance of 500?. a year 
 each. The Adjutant-General is responsible to the Commander- 
 in-Chief for the arming, clothing, training, recruiting, dis- 
 cipline, and general efficiency of the ai-my ; the Quarter- 
 Master- General has the responsibility of settling with the 
 Commander-in-Chief the movements and quarters of the 
 troops. * The English soldier it is understood enlists for life, 
 but may purchase his discharge, for which it is said every 
 facility is afforded, and at the end of fifteen years may claim 
 his discharge as a matter of course. The British army is com- 
 posed of about 7000 regimental officers on full pay, and the 
 War Office (the principal office in the Horse Guai'ds) is 
 maintained at a cost of 29,000?. a year. The total cost of 
 the British army (before the late War) was about 7 millions, 
 of the navy about 7 millions, and of the ordnance about 
 3 millions. The number of men in the army is determined, 
 by the Cabinet and sanctioned by Parliament. The troops 
 are divided, into Household Troops and the Line — the former 
 seldom leaving London, and the latter liable to be moved to 
 our most distant and unhealthy colonies. A private of the 
 Life Guards has Is. \l\d. a day, and a private of the Horse 
 Guards 1^. 8|f?. a day; the difference arising from an over- 
 sight in 1796, in not withdrawing barrack allowances from 
 the pi-ivates of the Life Guards. The privates in the Foot 
 Guards have Id. a day more than the Line. The Line have 
 Is. a day, and Ic?. a day for beer money. The price of a 
 Lieutenant-Colonel's commission in the Guards is 9000?., and 
 the price of an Ensign's commission 1200/. In the Line the 
 price of an Ensign's commission is only 450?. 
 
 THE AD]\nPtALTY, in Whitehall, occupies the site of 
 Vrallingford House, m which the business of the Lord High 
 Admiral, first conducted here in 1626 under Yiiliers, 
 Duke of Buckingham, became permanently established in 
 the reign of William III. The front towards the street 
 was built (circ. 1726) by Thomas Ripley, architect of 
 Houghton Hall in Norfolk, the '•' Ripley with a rule," 
 commemorated by Pope. 
 
 " See under Ripley rise a iiew Wlutehall, 
 While Jones' and Boyle's united labours fall." 
 
 The Dunciad, B. iii. 
 
 The screen towards the street was erected in 1776 by the 
 
 * Sir Philip Francis, the supposed author of " Junius," was a clerk in 
 the War Office from 1763 to 1772, when he resigned, or was removed, full 
 of ire against Lord Barrington, who had promoted Mr. Chamier over his 
 head to be Deputy Secretary at War.
 
 56 VII. — SOMERSET HOUSE. 
 
 brotliers xVdam, and is now, it is said, about to be removed, 
 for the purpose of erecting a front corresponding to that of 
 the Treasury, so as to include the whole of the Admiralty 
 departments. The office of Lord High Admiral, since the 
 Revolution of 1688, has, with three exceptions, been held 
 in commission. The exceptions are, Prince George of Den- 
 mark, the husband of Queen Anne, 1702 to 1708 ; Thomas, 
 Earl of Pembroke, for a short time in 1709 ; aud the Duke 
 of Clarence, afterwards King William IV., in 1827-28. 
 Among the First Lords Commissioners we may find the names 
 of Anson, Hawke, Howe, Keppell, and St. Vincent. Adjoin- 
 ing to, and communicating with the Admiralty, is a spacious 
 house for the I'esidence of the First Lord. The Secretary 
 and three or four of the junior Lords have residences in the 
 Northern wing of the building. The salary of the First Lord, 
 who has the whole of the patronage of the Xavy in his hands, 
 is 4500^. a yeai\ The correspondence of the Admiralty is 
 chiefly conducted here, but the accounts are kept by five 
 different officers in what used to be the Navy and Victualling 
 Offices at Somerset House in the Strand, viz., 1. Surveyor of 
 the Navy. 2. Accountant- General. 3. Store-keeper-General. 
 4. Comptroller of the Victualling and Transport Services. 5. 
 Inspector-General of Xaval Hospitals and Fleets. Observe. — 
 Characteristic portrait of Lord Nelson, painted at Palermo, 
 in 1799, for Sir William Hamilton, by Leonardo Guzzardi ; 
 he wears the diamond plume which the Sultan gave him. 
 In the house of the Secretary are the portraits of the Secre- 
 taries from Pepys to the present time. 
 
 SOMERSET HOUSE, in the Strand. A handsome pile 
 of building, erected 1776 — 1786, on the site of the palace of 
 the Protector Somerset. The architect vras Sir William 
 Chambers, son of a Scottish merchant. The general propor- 
 tions of the building arc good, and some of the details 
 of great elegance, especially the entrance archway from the 
 Strand. The terrace elevation towards the Thames was 
 made, like the Adelphi terrace of the brothers Adam, in 
 anticipation of the long projected embankment of the river, 
 and is one of the noblest facades in London. The building 
 is in the form of a quadrangle, with wings added by 
 Smirke and Pennethorne, and contains within its walls, 
 from 10 to 4, about 900 government officials, maintained 
 at an annual cost of something like 275,000?. The 
 principal government offices in the building are the Audit 
 Office, established in 1785, where the accounts of the king- 
 dom and the colonies are audited by commissioners
 
 VII. — SOMERSET HOUSE. 57 
 
 appointed for the purpose ; the OJice of Registrar General of 
 Births, Deaths, and Marriages in England (in the old rooms of 
 the Royal Academy of Arts), the Office of the Duchy of Corn- 
 wall, for the management of the estates of the Prince of 
 "Wales, who is also Duke of Cornwall ; the Inland Revenue 
 O^Ve where public taxes, stamps, legacy and excise duties ai-e 
 received from the several district collectors, and the branch 
 offices of the Admiralty. The Inland Revenue is managed by- 
 Commissioners, the chairman having a salary of 2500^. a-year, 
 the highest received by any public officer in Somerset House. 
 In rooms two stories below the level of the quadrangle, the 
 mechanical operations are conducted. Legal and commer- 
 cial stamps are impressed by hand-presses, newspaper stamps 
 by hand without any mechanical aid. The name of each 
 newspaper has been inserted, since the reduction of duty in 
 1836, in the die, in movable type, and by this means a 
 private register is obtained of the stamped circulation of every 
 newspaper in the kingdom. In the basement story, are presses 
 moved by steam : some employed in printing medicine- 
 labels ; some in printing stamps on countrj- bank-notes ; 
 others in stamping the embossed medallion of the Queen on 
 postage envelopes ; and others in i^rinting penny and two- 
 penny postage stamps on sheets. The Admiralty occupies 
 nearly a third of the building, and is a branch (rather perhaps, 
 the body) of the Admiralty at Whitehall. The Model Room 
 is worth seeing. The Eastern wing of the Strand front is 
 occupied by the Royal Society, the Society of Antiquaries, 
 and the Astronomical, Geographical, and Geological Societies. 
 [See Learned Institutions, p. 1S3.] Observe, under the vestibule, 
 on your left as you enter (distinguished by a bust of Sir 
 Isaac Xewton), the entrance-doorway to the apartments of 
 the Royal Society and Society of Antiquaries ; Herschel and 
 Watt, and Davy and Wollaston, and Walpole and Hallam 
 have often entered by this door; — under the same vestibule, 
 on your right as you enter (distinguished ,by a bust of 
 Michael Angelo), the entrance-doorway, from 1780 to 1830, 
 of the apartments of the Royal Academy of Arts. Some of 
 the best pictures of the English School have passed under this 
 doorway to the great room of the yearly exhibition ; and under 
 the same doorway, and up the same steps, Reynolds, Wilkie, 
 Flaxman, and Chantrey have often passed. The last and best 
 of Reynolds's Discoui'ses was delivered, by Sir Joshua himself, 
 in the great room of the Academy, at the top of the building. 
 The east wing of the building, erected 1829, is occupied by 
 King's College, and the west wing, fronting Wellington-street, 
 erected 1854-6, will be occupied by the Inland Revenue Office.
 
 58 VII, — THE ROYAL MINT. 
 
 The bronze statue of George III., and figure of Father Thames^ 
 in the quadrangle, are by John Bacon, R.A., and cost 2000Z. 
 
 In the south-east angle of the building, a little above the 
 entrance-door to the Stamps and Taxes, is a white watch-face, 
 regarding which the popular belief has been, and is, that it 
 was left there by a labouring man who fell from a scafibld 
 at the top of the building, and was only saved from destruc- 
 tion by the ribbon of his Avatch, which caught in a piece of 
 projecting work. In thankful remembrance (so the story 
 runs) of his wonderful escape, he afterwards desired that his 
 watch might be placed as near as possible to the spot where 
 his life had been saved. Such is the story told fifty times a 
 week to groups of gaping listeners — a story I am sorxy to 
 disturb, for the watch of the labouring man is nothing more 
 than a watch-face, placed by the Royal Society as a meridian 
 mark for a portable transit instrument in one of the windows 
 of their ante-room. The iron fastenings on the foot-gates 
 from the Strand were made to support a formidable chevaiix 
 de frise, and are among the few existing memorials of the 
 memorable 10th of April, 1848, when all London was in arms. 
 
 The number of windows in Somerset House is 3600. This 
 was re-ascertained in 1850 by the painter who contracted to 
 paint the outside of the building. It took one man three 
 days to count them. 
 
 THE ROYAL MINT, on Tower Hill. The elevation of 
 the building was by a Mr. Johnson ; the entrances, &c,, by Sir 
 Robert Smirke. The coinage of the three kingdoms, and of 
 many of our colonies, is executed within the^e Avails. The 
 various processes connected Avitli coining are carried on by a 
 series of ingenious machines. The most curious process is 
 that by which the metal, when tested to shoAv that it contains 
 the proper alloy, is drawn through rollers by an engine 
 called " the drawing bench," to the precise thickness required 
 for the coin which is to be cut out of it. In the case of gold, 
 the difierence of a hair's breadth in any part of the plate or 
 sheet of gold would alter the value of a sovereign. By 
 another machine circular disks are punched out of the sheets 
 of metal of any size required, and by a number of screw 
 presses these blanks, as they are called, are stamped on 
 obverse and reverse at the same time. Every process has an 
 interest of its own ; but none are more suggestive, and more 
 worth seeing, than the rapid motion by which sixty or seventy 
 sixpences may be struck in a minute, and half-crowns or 
 sovereigns in minor proportions ; or the mode in which the 
 press feeds itself with tlie blanks to be coined, and, when
 
 VII. BURLIXGTOX HOUSE. 59* 
 
 struck, removes them from between the dies. The coins are, 
 of conrse, struck from dies. A matrix in relief is first cut 
 in soft steel by the engraver. When this is hardened, many 
 dies may be obtained from it, provided the metal resists the 
 gi-eat force required to obtain the impression. Many matrices 
 and dies split in the process of stamping. The mode of 
 hardening the dies, by a chemical process, is kept secret. 
 The present Master of the Mint is Thomas Graham, Esq., an 
 office formerly held by Sir Isaac Newton, and Sir John 
 Herschel. Thomas Simon was graver to the Mint during the 
 Protectorate of Cromwell, and the early pai-t of the reign of 
 Charles II. The Mint receives gold bullion for coinage, 
 '■'without any charge whatever," on Tuesday, Thursdays, and 
 Saturdays, between 12 and 2 o'clock. Persons intending to 
 deliver gold to the Mint for coinage must give one week's 
 notice of their intention, by letter addressed to the Master. 
 Mode of Admission. — Order from the master, which is not 
 transferable, and is available only for the day specified. In 
 all applications for admission, the names and addresses of 
 the persons wishing to be admitted, or of some one of them, 
 with the number of the rest, are to be stated. 
 
 BURLIXGTOX HOUSE, Piccadilly, late the residence of 
 the Hon. Charles Cavendish, stands between Bond-street and 
 Sackville-street, and is the second house that has stood on the 
 same site. The Jirst house so called was built by Boyle, 
 Lord Burlington ; and the second and present house by his 
 son, Richard Boyle, Lord Burlington, the architect. The 
 walls and ceilings were painted for the Earl by Marco 
 Ricci. This celebrated house was bought by Government 
 for Government offices in 18-54 for 1-40,000/. There is some 
 talk of taking it down, and of erecting a more useful struc- 
 ture in its place. 
 
 '• Tew in tliis vast city suspect, I believe, that beliiud an old brick 
 ■wall in Piccadilly there is one of the finest pieces of architectiu-e in 
 Europe." — Sir inUiam Chnmhers. 
 
 " As -vre have few samples of architecture more antique and imposing 
 than that colonnade, I cannot help mentioning the effect it had on 
 myself. I had not only never seen it, but had never heard of it, at least 
 with any attention, when, soon after my return from Italy, I was 
 invited to a ball at Burlington-house. As I passed under the gate by 
 night, it could not strike me. At daybreak, looking out of the windows 
 to see the sun-rise, I was surprised with the vision of the colonnade that 
 fronted me. It seemed one of those edifices in fairy-tales that are raised 
 by genii in a night-time." — Horace Walpole. 
 
 Lord Burlington was bom in 1695, and died in 1753, when 
 the title became extinct, and Bm^lington House the property 
 of the Dukes of Devonshire. The lease expiring in 1S09, a
 
 GO VII. — RECORD OFFICES. 
 
 renewal was obtained by Lord George Cavendish (afterwards 
 Earl of Burlington), son of William, fourth Duke of Devon- 
 shire, and grandson of the architect. A print by Hogarth, 
 called '• The Man of Taste, containing a view of Burlington 
 Gate," represents Kent on the summit in his threefold capacity 
 of painter, sculptor, and architect, flourishing his palette and 
 pencils over the heads of his astonished supporters, Michael 
 Angelo and Raphael. On a scaffold, a little lower down, 
 Pope stands, whitewashing the front, and while he makes 
 the pilasters of the gateway clean, liis wet brush bespatters 
 the Duke of Chandos, who is passing by ; Lord Burlington 
 serves the poet in the capacity of a labourer, and the date of 
 the print is 173L Kent was patronised by Lord Burlington. 
 Handel lived for three years in this house. 
 
 " — Burlingtoirs fair palace still remains, 
 Beauty within — without, proporticu reigns ; 
 Beneatli his eye declining art revives, 
 The wall witli animated pictures lives. 
 There Handel strikes the strings, tlie melting strain 
 Transports the soul, and thrills through every vein ; 
 There oft I enter — but with cleaner shoes, 
 For Burlington's beloved by every ;Muse." — Gay, Trivia. 
 
 Like of Portland, when Mini 
 IIL, resided in Burlington House. 
 
 PtECORD OFFICES in London are six in number :— The 
 Chapel, in the Tower of London ; the Chapter-house, "West- 
 minster Abbey ; the Rolls Cliapel, in Chancery-lane ; Carlton 
 Ride, in St. James's Park ; State Paper Office, in St. James's 
 Park ; Prerogative Will Office, in Doctors' Commons, wherein 
 all wills are proved, and all administrations granted that 
 belong to the Archbishop of Canterbury by his prerof/ative. 
 A Public Record Office, to contain the Records of the 
 Kingdom, is now (lSo6) in course of completion on the Rolls 
 estate in Chancery lane. 
 
 At the Chapter House may be seen Domesday Book, or the 
 Survey of England made by William the Conqueror, two 
 volumes on vellum of unequal size ; deed of resignation of 
 the Scottish Crown to Edward IL ; the Charter granted by 
 Alfonso of Castile to Edward I., on his marriage with Eleanor 
 of Castile, with a solid seal of gold attached ; a Treaty of 
 Peace between Henry VIII. and Francis I. of France, with 
 the gold seal attached in high relief, and undercut, supposed 
 to be the work of Benvenuto Cellini. 
 
 At Carlton Ride arc preserved the several instruments of 
 the surrender to Henry YIII. of the whole of the monasteries 
 in England and Wales.
 
 Capel Court and Stock 
 
 Exchange. 
 Bartholomew-lane. 
 
 3 
 
 
 ■z » 
 5a 
 
 m "m
 
 VIII. BANK OF ENGLAND. 61 
 
 Access to the papers in the State Paper Office can only be 
 obtained by a written order from the Secretary of State for 
 the Home Department, Unrestricted access has never as 
 yet been granted. 
 
 In the Prerogative Will Office* may be seen the origiual will 
 of Shakspeare, on three folio sheets of paper, with his signa- 
 ture to each sheet ; the wills of Van Dyck the painter, of 
 Inigo Jones, Sir Isaac Newton, Dr. Johnson, Izaak Walton ; 
 in short, of all the great men of this country who died 
 possessed of property in the south of England. The will of 
 Xapoleon, made at St. Helena, and long an object of curiosity 
 in this office, was surrendered to the French, in February, 
 1853. The office hours at the Prerogative Will Office are 9 
 to 3 in winter, and 9 to 4 in summer. The charges for 
 searching the calendars of names is Is. for every name. The 
 charge for seeing the original will is a shilling extra. Pei'sons 
 are not allowed to make even a pencil memorandum, but 
 official copies of wills may be had at eightpence per folio. 
 At the other Record Offices you are permitted to make 
 extracts and memoranda. 
 
 VIII.-COMMERCIAL BUILDINGS AND DOCKS. 
 
 BANK OF ENGLAND, Threadneedle-street, City, 
 (Branch at Uxbridge House, Burlington Gardens), — "the 
 principal Bank of Deposit and Circulation ; not in this 
 country only, but in Europe,"— was founded in 1<394, and grew 
 out of a loan of 1,200,000^. for the public service. Its principal 
 projector was Mr. William Paterson, a Scotch gentleman (en- 
 couraged by Charles Montague, afterwards Chancellor of the 
 Exchequer and Earl of Halifax) ; who, according to his own 
 account, commenced his exertions for the establishment of a 
 National Bank in 1691. By the laws and regulations which 
 he left, no Scotchman is eligible to fill the post of a Director. 
 
 From 1694 to 1734, the business of the Bank was carried 
 on in Grocers' Hall, in the Poultry, when it was I'emoved to 
 an establishment of its ov/n (part of the present edifice), 
 designed by Mr. George Sampson. East and west wings 
 were added by Sir Robert Tayloi*, between 1766 and 1786. 
 Sir John Soane siibsequently receiving the appointment 
 
 * It is much to be regretted that the facilities afforded by this office 
 are so veiy few, thst no plan has yet been adopted by -which proper 
 persons might have unrestricted access to the registers of the Court. 
 The office abounds in matter of great biographical importance — illustra- 
 tive of the lives of eminent men, of the descent of property, and of the 
 manners and customs of bygune times. To literary men of kuowu 
 attainments the freedom of tlie office might be given with perfect security.
 
 •62 VIII. — BANK OF ENGLAND. 
 
 of architect to the Bank, part of the old building was either 
 altered or taken down, and the Bank, much as we now see 
 it, covering an irregular area of four acres, was completed by 
 him. There is little to admire in it. Yet it has the merit of 
 being well adapted for the purposes and business of the Bank. 
 The corner towards Lothbury, though small, is much admired. 
 The copings made since the Chartist meeting on the 10th 
 of April, 1848, were added by C. R. Cockerell, R.A., the 
 present architect to the Bank. The area in the centre, 
 planted with trees and shrubs, and ornamented with a 
 fountain, was formerly the churchyard of St. Christopher, 
 Threadneedle-street. The management of the Bank is 
 vested in a Governor, Deputy-Governor, and twenty-four 
 Directors, eight of whom go out every year. The qualifi- 
 cation for Goveinior is 4000^. Stock, Deputy-Governor 3000^,, 
 ■and Director 2000^. The room in which the Directors meet 
 is called the Banh Parlour. The profits accrue from interest 
 on Exchequer-bills, discounts, interest on capital lent to 
 Government, an allowance of about 70,000/. a year for 
 loianaging the Public Debt, and some other sources. The 
 dividend received by the proprietors is 7 per cent. In the 
 lobby of the Parlour is a portrait of Abraham Newland, who 
 rose from a baker's counter to be chief clerk of the Bank of 
 England, and to die enormously rich. Madox, who wrote 
 the History of the Exchequer, Avas the first chief cashier. 
 The persons employed were at first only 54; they are now 
 SOO. ^The salaries rise from 50?. to 2000/. a year. The cost iu 
 salaries alone is about 210,000Z. a year. Tliere is a valuable 
 library, for the use of the clerks. The Bullion Office is 
 situated on the northern side, in the basement story, 
 and formed pai't of the original structure, but has since 
 been enlarged. It consists of a public chamber for the 
 transaction of business, a vault for public deposits, and 
 a vault for the private stock. The duties are discharged 
 by a Principal, a Deputy-Principal, Clerk, Assistant-Clerk, 
 and porters. In the process of weighing, a number of 
 admirably- constructed balances are brought into operation. 
 A large balance, invented by Mr. Bate, weighs silver in bars, 
 from 50 lb. to 801b. troy; — a balance, invented in 1820 by 
 Sir John Barton, of the Mint, weighs gold coin in quantities 
 varying from a few ounces to IS lb. troy, and gold in bars 
 of any v»'eight up to 15 lb. ; — a third, invented by Mr. Bate, 
 weighs dollars to amounts not exceeding 72 lb. 2 oz. troy. 
 These instruments are veiy perfect in their action, admit of 
 easy regulation, and are of durable construction. The public 
 are admitted to a counter, separated fi*om the rest of the
 
 YIIT. ROYAL EXCHANGE. C3 
 
 apartments, hut are ou uo account allowed to enter tlie 
 bullion vaults. The amount of bullion in the possession of 
 the Bank of England constitutes, along with their securities, 
 the assets which they place against their liabilities, on account 
 of circulation and deposits ; and the difference (about three 
 millions) between the several amounts is called the " Rest," 
 or guarantee fund to provide for the contingency of possible 
 losses. Gold is almost exclusively obtained by the Bank in 
 the " bar " form ; although no form of the deposit would be 
 refused. A bar of gold is a small slab, weighing 16 lb., and 
 worth about 800Z. In the weighing office is tice balance made 
 Jjy Mr. Cotton, with glass weights, and Aveighing at the rate of 
 33 sovereigns a minute. The machine appears to be a square 
 brass box, in the inside of which, secure from currents of 
 air, is the machinery. This wonderful and ingenious piece 
 of mechanism is so contrived, that, on receiving the 
 sovereigns, it discriminates so as to thi'ow those of full 
 weight into one box, and to reject those of light weight into 
 another. Do not omit to see the wonderful machinery, in- 
 vented by John Oldham (d. 1840), by w^hich bank-notes are 
 printed and numbered with unerring precision, in jjrogres- 
 sion from 1 to 100,000; the whole accompanied by such a 
 system of registration and checks as to record everything 
 that every part of the machine is doing at any moment, 
 and render fraud impossible. The value of Bank-notes in 
 circulation in one quarter of a year is upwards of 18,.000,000/., 
 and the number of persons receiving dividends in one year 
 is about 284, OuO. The Stock or Annuities upon which the 
 Public Dividends ai-e payable amount to about 774,000,000^., 
 and the yeai'ly dividends payable thereupon to about 
 25,000,000/. The issue of paper on securities is not permitted 
 to exceed 14.000,000/. In 1844 the Bank Charter was con- 
 tinued till 1855. The dividend to the pi-oprietors (18th 
 Max'ch, 1852,) was 4 per cent., and the bullion in the, vaults 
 on 27th Dec, 1851, was 17,320,000/. The mode of admission 
 to view the Bank is by an order from the Governor, Deputy- 
 Governor, or any of the Dii-ectors. To view the Bullion 
 Office the admission must be specially marked. The 
 commonest almanack or pocket-book is sure to contain a 
 list of Bank Directors for the current year. 
 
 THE ROYAL EXCHANGE (a quadrangular edifice, with 
 a portico on the W. side facing down Cheapside; and the 
 third building of the kind on the same site), erected for the 
 convenience of mex'chants and bankers; built from the 
 designs of William Tite, and opened by Queen Victoria,
 
 64 VIII. — LL0Y1> ii. 
 
 Oct. 28 til, ISii. The pediment was made by R. Westmacott, 
 R.A. (the younger). It consists of an open court or quad- 
 rangle, surrounded by a colonnade, with a marble statue of 
 her Majesty, by Lough ; and statues of Sir Thomas Gresham, 
 SirHugh Myddelton, and Queen Elizabeth, by Messrs. Joseph, 
 Carew, and Watson. It is said to have cost 180,000?. ; but 
 is now much disfigured by shops, in opposition to the 
 firmly expressed wishes of its architect. The hour of 
 "Change, the bu-sy period, is from half-past 3 to half-past 
 4 P.M. The two great days on 'Change are Tuesday and 
 Friday. The Rothschilds occupy a inllav on the S. side. In 
 the E. part, up-stairs, are Lloyd''s Suhscri];dion Rooms {ori- 
 ginally Lloyds Coffee House), the centre and focus of all 
 intelligence, commercial and political, domestic and foreign, 
 where merchants, shippers, and underwriters attend to 
 obtain shipping intelligence, and where the business of 
 Marine Insurance is carried on through the medium of 
 vmderwriters. There is no one engaged in any extensive 
 mercantile business in London who is not either a member 
 or subscriber to Lloyd's ; and thus the collective body 
 represents the greater part of the mercantile wealth of the 
 country. The entrance to Lloyd's is in the area, near the 
 eastern gate of the Royal Exchange. A wide flight of steps 
 leads to a handsome vestibule, ornamented by marble statues 
 of Prince Albert, by Lough; the late William Huskisson, by 
 Gibson, R.A., presented by his widow. On the walls is the 
 tablet, erected as a testimonial to the ''Times" newspaper, for 
 the public spirit displayed by its proprietor in the ex- 
 posure of a fraudulent conspiracy. In this vestibule are 
 the entrances to the three principal subscription-rooms — 
 the Underwriters', the Merchants', and the Captains' Room, 
 The afiairs of Lloyd's are managed by a committee of nine 
 membei's. The chaii-man is elected annually : he is genei'ally 
 a merchant of eminence and a member of Parliament. There 
 is a secretaiy and 8 clerks, 8 waiters, and 5 messengers. 
 The expenses amount to upwards of 10,000/. per annum. 
 The income is derived from the subscriptions of about 1900 
 members and subscribers, and substitutes ; the payments 
 from the insurance and other public companies ; the adver- 
 tising of ships' bills, and the sale of Lloyd's List. Each 
 member pays 251. admission, and an annual subscription of 
 41. 4s.; but if an underwriter, 101. 10s. Annual subscribers 
 to the whole establishment pay four guineas, or if to the 
 Merchants' Room only, then two guineas. The admission is 
 by ballot of the committee, on the recommendation of six 
 subscribex's.
 
 VIII. — TRINITY HOUSE. 6o 
 
 "What is called Lloyd's Register of Brli'isli and Forelyii 
 Shipping is iu iSTo. 2, White-Lion-court, Coi-nbill, and was 
 established iu 1834, The object of the Society Avas to obtain 
 a knowledge of the condition of the mercantile shipping, by 
 means of careful surveys to be made by competent surveyors, 
 and thus to secure an accurate classification according to the 
 real and intrinsic worth of the ship. The affairs of the 
 Society which instituted this book are managed by a com- 
 mittee consisting of 21 members, namely 8 merchants, 8 
 shipowners, and 8 underwriters, Six members (2 of each of 
 the description just mentioned) retire annually, but are 
 eligible to be re-elected. The right of election rests equally 
 with the committee for Lloyd's and the committee of the 
 General Shipowners' Society. 
 
 On the architrave of the X. fayade of the Exchange are 
 three inscriptions in relief, each divided by a simple 
 moulding. The one on the left of the spectator is the 
 common City motto, " domi^^e dirige nos," and that on the 
 right " HONOR DEO." The motto in the central compart- 
 ment, "FoRTVN. A. MY," was the motto of Sir Thomas 
 Gresham, 
 
 It is contemplated, we are told, to glaze in the whole 
 quadrangle of the Royal Exchange. This will add to the 
 comfort of the merchants on 'Change, but hardly to the 
 architectural character of 3ir. Tite's building. 
 
 The first Royal Exchange was foimded by Sir Thomas 
 Gresham, June 7th, 1-566, and the building opened by Queen 
 Elizabeth, Jan. 2.3rd, 1570-1. 
 
 TRINITY HOUSE, on the X. side of Tower Hill, built 
 by Samuel Wyatt. The house belongs to a company or 
 corporation founded hj Sir Thomas Spert, Comptroller of 
 the Xavy to Henry VIII., and commander of the Harry Grace 
 de Dieu, and was incorporated (March 20th, 1529) by the 
 name of '• The Master, Wardens, and Assistants of the Guild, 
 Fraternity, or Brotherhood, of the most glorious and Undivid- 
 able Trinity, and of St. Clement, in the parish of Deptford 
 Strond, in the county of Kent." The corporation consists of 
 a Master, Deputy Master, 31 Elder Brethren, and an imlimited 
 number of "younger brethren," and has for its object the in- 
 crease and encouragement of navigation, &c., the regulation of 
 light-hoxises, and sea marks, and the general management of 
 matters not immediately connected with the Admiraltj-. The 
 revenue of the corporation, arising from tonnage, ballastage, 
 beaconage, &c., is applied (after defrajnng the expenses of 
 light-houses, buoys, &:c..) to the relief of decayed seamen, 
 
 F
 
 C6 YIII. — STOCK EXCHANGE. 
 
 tlicii- Avidows and children. Prince Albert is the present 
 master. 
 
 STOCK EXCHANGE, Capel Court. Re-built 1853 
 (Thomas Allason, architect). This, the ready-money market 
 of the world, -svas removed hither in 1802 from Change- 
 alley. It stands immediatel}' in front of the Bank of England. 
 Capel-court was so called from the London residence and 
 place of business of Sir William Capel, ancestor of the Capels, 
 Earls of Essex, and Lord Mayor in 1504. The members 
 of the Stock Exchange, about 850 in number, consist of 
 dealers {called jobbers), brokers in British and foreign funds, 
 railway and other shares exclusively; each member paying 10^. 
 yearly. A notice is posted at every entrance that none but 
 members are admitted. A stranger is soon detected, and by 
 the custom of the place is made to understand that he is an 
 intrudei', and turned out. The admission of a member takes 
 place in committee, and is by ballot. The election is only for 
 one year, so that each member has to be re-elected every Lady- 
 day. The committee, consisting of thirty, are elected hj 
 the members at the same time. Every new member of the 
 " house," as it is called, must be introduced by three merabers, 
 each of whom enters into security in 300/. for two years. 
 An applicant for admission who has been a clerk to a 
 member for the space of four years has to provide only two 
 securities for 250/. for two yeai^. Foreigners must have 
 resided five years before eligible for election. A bankrupt 
 member immediately ceases to be a member, and cannot be 
 re-elected unless he pays 6s. 8d. in the pound from resources 
 of his own. The visual commission charged by a broker is 
 one-eighth per cent, upon the stock sold or purchased ; but on 
 foreign stocks, railway bonds and shares, it varies according 
 to the value of the securities. The broker generally deals 
 with the "jobbers," as they are called, a class of members 
 who are dealers or middle men, who remain in the Stock 
 Exchange in readiness to act upon the appearance of the 
 brokers, but the market is entirely open to all the members, 
 so that a broker is not compelled to deal with a jobber, but 
 can treat with another broker. The fluctuations of price are 
 produced by sales and purchases, by continental news, 
 domestic politics and finance ; and sometimes by a fraud 
 or trick like that asci'ibed to Lord Cochrane and others, in 
 1814, when the members were victimised to a large amovmt.* 
 
 * The " Rules and Regulations of the Stock Exchange," to take effect 
 " from the 4th of July, 1853," are in print, and are 173 in number. The 
 House is shut on Good Friday and Christmas Day in every year.
 
 VIII. — EAST INDIA HOUSE. 67 
 
 EAST IXDIA HOUSE, Leadexhall Street,— tlie House 
 of the East ludia Compauy, the largest and most mag- 
 iiificeut Company in the world, — was built on the site of 
 a former house by Mr. R. Jupp, in 1799, and subsequently, 
 enlarged from designs by C. R. Cockerell, R.A., and W 
 '^Vilkins, R.A. The poor sculpture in the pediment was the 
 work of the younger Bacon. The Compam^ was first incor- 
 porated in 1600. The last great change was made in 1833, 
 when an Act of Parliament was passed, by which the go- 
 vernment of India is continued in the hands of the Company 
 imtil 1854. The home government of the Compimy consists 
 of *•' The Court of Proprietoi's, or Genei'al Court," composed 
 of the owners of India stock ; '• The Covirt of Directors," 
 selected from the Proprietors ; and '• The Board of Control," 
 nominated by the Sovereign. To become a Director requires a 
 personal canvass of seven years at least. Here is a Museum 
 open to the public on Fi-idays, from 11 to 3. Observe. — Large 
 and capital dmwing of old East India House. Hindu idols 
 in silver and gold. Hindu and Goorkha swords. Pair of 
 gauntlets made at Lahore, sometimes used by the native 
 chiefs and hoi^semen in India (beautifully elaborate). Sword 
 of the executioner attached to the palace of the King of 
 Candy (taken at the capture of Candy). Piece of wood of 
 the ship " Farqixhai"Son," containing the honis of a fish 
 called the monodon : the largest horn had penetrated 
 through the copper sheathing and outside lining into one 
 of the floor timbei'S. An emblematic organ (a tiger on a 
 man), contrived for the amusement of Tippoo Sultan. Surya, 
 the Sun, in his seven-horse car. Buddhist idols and relics. 
 A perfumed gold necklace. The state howdah of Dm-gan 
 Sal, usurper of Bhui'tpore. Full-length portrait of the 
 famous Nadir Shah. Roman tessalated pavement found in 
 front of the East India House — human figure reclining on 
 a tiger. Babylonian inscription on stone, as sharp and 
 perfect as the day it was cut. Monument to the great Lord 
 Clive ; monument to Major Lawrence, the friend of Clive ; 
 statue of Warren Hastings, by Flaxman ; statue of Marquis 
 Wellesley ; statue of Duke of Wellington, by Noble ; bxist of 
 Mr. Colebrooke, by Chantrey. The coins (a most valuable col- 
 lection under the care of Prof. H. H. Wilson) can only be seen 
 by special permission. Hoole, the translator of Tasso; Charles 
 Lamb, author of Elia ; and James Mill, the historian of British 
 India ; were clerks in the East India House. " My printed 
 works," said Lamb, " were my recreations — my true works 
 may be foimd on the shelves in Leadenhall-street, filling some 
 hundi-ed folios," 
 
 F 2
 
 68 VIII. — DOCKS. 
 
 THE DOCKS OF LOXDOX, Jive iu number, viz., West 
 ludia Docks, East India Docks, St. Katlierine's Docks, 
 London Docks, and Commercial Docks, have all of them 
 been fonned since 1800, previous to which time the several 
 pi'oprietors of wharfs and landing-places, both above and 
 below bridge, were iu the way of their formation. One and 
 all of these Docks have been consti-ucted by joint-stock com- 
 panies, and though not unprofitable to their promoters, have 
 redounded more to the advantage of the Port of London 
 than to that of their projectors. 
 
 WEST INDIA DOCKS, the most magnificent iu the world 
 (William Jessop, engineer), cover 295 acres, and lie between 
 Limehouse and Blackwall, on the left bank of the Thames. 
 The first stone was laid by William Pitt, July 12th, 1800, and 
 the docks opened for business, Aug. 21st, 1802. The north- 
 em, or Import Dock, is 170 yards long by 166 A^de, and will 
 hold 201 vessels of 300 tons each; and the southern, or 
 Export Dock, is 170 yards long by 135 yards wide, and will 
 hold 195 vessels. South of the Export Dock is a canal 
 nearly three-ciuarters of a mile long, cutting off the great 
 bend of the river, connecting Limehouse Reach with Black- 
 W'all Reach, and forming the northern boundary of the Isle 
 of Dogs. The two docks, with their warehouses, are en- 
 closed by a lofty wall five feet in thickness, and have held at 
 one time 118,563 casks of snigar, 70,875 barrels and 433,618 
 bags of coffee, 35,158 pipes of rum and Madeira, 14,021 logs 
 of mahogany, and 21,350 tons of logwood. Though they 
 retain their old name, they belong to the East and West 
 India Dock Company, and are used by every kind of shipping. 
 The office of the Company is at Xo. 8, Billiter-square ; and 
 the best way of reaching the docks is by the Blackwall 
 Railway. The original capital of the Company was 500,000?., 
 aftei-R^ards raised to 1,200,000Z. The revenues in 1809 
 amounted to 330,623?., and in 1813, when they reached their 
 climax, to 449,421/. Since that time the depreciation of the 
 West India Trade has caused a great falling off. The annual 
 expenses of the establishment amounted in 1819 to 151,644?., 
 of which above 50,000?. Avent to workmen, above 40,000?. to 
 building and improvements, and 13,320?. to taxes. 
 
 EAST INDIA DOCKS, Blackwall, a little lower down 
 the river than the West India Docks, and considerably smaller, 
 were originally erected for the East India Company, but since 
 the opening of the trade to India, the property of the East and 
 West India Companies. The first stone was laid Mai'ch 4th, 
 1805, and the docks opened for business Aug. 4th, 1806. The
 
 VIII. DOCKS. 69 
 
 number of directors is 13, who must each hold 20 shares iu the 
 stock of the Compauy, and 4 of them must be directors of the 
 East India Company. This forms the only connexion which 
 the East India Company has with the Docks. The possession 
 of five shares gives a right of voting. The Import Dock has 
 au area of 19 acres, the Export Dock of 10 acres, and the 
 Basin of 3, making a total surface of 32 acres. The gates are 
 closed at 3 in the winter months, and at 4 in the summer 
 months. The mode of admission for visitors is much stricter 
 than at any of the other Docks. The best way of reaching the 
 Docks is by the Blackwall Railway from Fenchurch-street. 
 This is the head-quarters of ^A^iite Bait, which may be had 
 in the neighbouring Brunswick Tavern. 
 
 ST. KATHERIXE'S DOCKS, near the Towek. First stone 
 laid May 3rd, 1827, and the Docks publicly opened, Oct. 2oth, 
 1S2S; 1250 houses, including the old Hospital of St. Kathe- 
 rine, were purchased and pulled do-'.vn, and 11,300 inhabitants 
 removed, in clearing the ground for this magnificent under- 
 taking, of which Mr. Telford was the engineer, Mr. Hardmck 
 the architect, and Sir John Hall, the present secretary, the 
 jvctive promoter. The total cost was 1,700.000^. The 
 area of the Docks is about 24 acres, of which 11^ are 
 water. The lock is sunk so deep that ships of 700 tons 
 burden may enter at any time of the tide. The warehouses, 
 vaults, sheds, and covered ways will contain 110,000 tons of 
 goods. Tlie gross earnings of the Company in 1845 were 
 230,992^. 15s. 2d. ; expenses, 122,717/. 7s. Ud. ; balance, 
 108,275/. 7s. dd. The gross earnings for 1846 were 
 229,814/. 14s. lOd.; expenses, 124,269/. 14s. 7d. ; balance, 
 105,545/. Os. Sd. The earth excavated at St. Katherine's when 
 the Docks were formed was carried by Avater to Millbank, 
 and employed to fill u.p the cuts or reservoirs of the Chelsea 
 Waterworks Company, on which, under Mi\ Cubitt's care, 
 Eccleston-square, and much of the south side of Pimlico, has 
 been since erected. 
 
 THE LONDON" DOCKS, situated on the bank of the 
 Thames, between St. Katherine's Docks and Ratcliffe 
 Highway. The first and largest dock (John Rennie, engineer) 
 was opened, Jan. 30th, 1805 ; the entrance from the Thames 
 at Shadwell (Heniy R. Palmer, engineer) was made, 1831 ; 
 and the New Tea Warehouses, capacious enough to receive 
 120,000 chests, were erected in 1844-45. This magnificent 
 establishment comprises an area of 90 acres — 34^ acres of 
 water, 49|: acres of floor in warehouses and sheds, 20 
 acres of vault. There are 20 warehouses, 259 floors in these
 
 70 VIII.— DOCKS. 
 
 v/arehouses, IS sheds, 17 vaults, aiid 6 quays, with three 
 entrances from the Thames, viz., Hermitage, 40 feet in width ; 
 Wappiug, 40 feet; and Shad well, 45 feet. The "Western 
 Dock comprises 20 acres ; the Eastern, 7 acres ; and the 
 Wapping Basin, 3 acres. The entire structure cost 4,000,000?. 
 of money. The wall alone cost 65,000?. The walled-in range 
 of dock possesses water-room for 302 sail of vessels, exclusive 
 of lighters; Avarehouse-room for 220,000 tons of goods; and 
 vault- room for 60,000 pipes of wine. The tobacco warehouse 
 alone covers 5 acres. The number of ships entered in the six 
 months ending May 31st, 1849, was 704, measuring upwards 
 of 1 95,000 tons. Six weeks are allowed for unloading, beyond 
 which period the charge of a farthing per ton is made for 
 the first two weeks, and a halfpenny per ton afterwards. The 
 business of the Docks is managed by a Court of Directors, 
 who sit at the London Dock House, in New Bank-buildings. 
 The capital of the shareholders is 4,000,000?. As many as 
 3000 labourers have been employed in these docks in one da}'. 
 
 " The TobaccoWareliousos are rented by Government at 14,000?. a year. 
 They will contain about 24,000 hogsheads, averaging 12001b. each, and 
 equal to 30,000 tons of general merchandise. Passages and alleys, each 
 several hundred feet long, are bordered on both sides by close and com- 
 l^act ranges of hogsheads, with here and there a small space for the 
 counting-house of the officers of customs, under whose inspection all the 
 arrangements are conducted. Near the north-east corner of the ware- 
 houses is a door inscribed ' To the Kiln,' where damaged tobacco isbunit, 
 the long chimney which carries off the smoke being joculaidy called ' The 
 Queen's Pipe.'" — Knight's London, iii. 76. 
 
 This is the great depot for the stock of wines belonging to 
 the AVino Mereliants of London. Port is principally kept 
 in pipes ; sherry in hogsheads. On the 30th of June, 1849, 
 the Dock contained 14,783 i:)ipes of port ; 13,107 hogsheads 
 of sherry; 64 pipes of French wine; 796 pipes of Cape 
 wine; 7607 cases of wine, containing 19,140 dozen; 10,113 
 hogsheads of brandy; and 3642 pipes of rum. The total 
 of port was 14,783 pipes, 44G0 hogsheads, and 3161 quarter 
 casks. 
 
 " As jow enter the dock, the sight of the forest of masts in the distance, 
 and the tall chimneys vomiting clouds of black smoke, and the many- 
 coloured flags flying in the air, has a most peculiar effect; while the 
 slieds, with the monster wheels arching through the roofs, look like the 
 paddle-boxes of huge steamers. Along the quay, you see now men with 
 their faces blue with indigo, and now gaugers with their long brass- 
 tipped rule dripping with spirit from the cask thej' have been probing ; 
 then will come a group of flaxen-haired sailors, chattering German ; and 
 next a black sailor, with a cotton handkerchief twisted turban-like around 
 his head. Presently a blue-smocked butcher, with fresh meat and a 
 bunch of cabbages in the tray on his shoulder, and shortly afterwards 
 a mate with green parroquets in a wooden cage. Here you will see, 
 sitting on a bench, a sorrowful-looking woman, with new bright cooking
 
 VIII. — CORN EXCHAN-GE. 71 
 
 tins at ber fvct, telling you she is an emigrant preparing ivr her voyage. 
 As you pass along this quay the air is pungent with tobacco ; at that it 
 overpowers you T>ith the fumes of rum. Tiien you are nearly sickened 
 ^rfth the stench of hides and huge bins of horas, and shortly aftemards 
 the atmosphere is fragrant with cotfee and spice. Nearly everywhere 
 you meet stacks of cork, or else yellov,- bins of sulphur or lead-coloured 
 copper ore. As you enter this warehouse, the flooring is sticky, as if it 
 liad been newly tarred, with the sugar that lias leaked through the casks, 
 and as you descend into the dark vaults you see long lines of lights 
 hanging from the black arches, and lamps flitting about midway. Here 
 you sniff the fumes of the wine, and there the peculiar fungous smell of 
 dry-rot. Then the jumble of sounds as you pass along the dock blends in 
 anything but sweet concord. The sailors are singing boisterous nigger 
 songs from the Yankee ship just entering, the cooper is hammering at 
 the casks on the quay ; the chains of the cranes, loosed of their weight, 
 rattle as they fly up again ; the ropes splash in the water; some captain 
 shouts his orders through his hands ; a goat bleats from some ship in 
 the basin ; and empty casks roll along tlie stones with a hollow drum- 
 like sound. Here the heavy-laden ships are down far below the quay, 
 and you descend to them by ladders, whilst in another basin they are 
 high up out of the water, so'that their green copper sheathing is almost 
 level with the eye of the passenger, while above his head a long line of 
 bowsprits stretch far over the quay, and from them hang spars and 
 planks as a gangway to each ship.' This immense establishment is 
 worked by from one to three thousand hands, according as the business 
 is either 'brisk ' or ' slack.' "" — Henry Mayheu:, Labour and the Poor, in the 
 Jlorning Chronicle for Oct. 1S49. 
 
 Mode of Admission. — The basins and shipping are open to 
 the public ; but to inspect the vaults and warehouses an 
 order must be obtained from the Secretary at the London 
 Dock House in Xew Bauk-buildings ; ladies are not admitted 
 after 1 p.m. 
 
 COMMERCIAL DOCKS. Five ample and commodious 
 docks on the south side of the river, the property of the 
 Commercial Dock Company, with an entrance from the 
 Thames, between Randairs-rents and Dog-aud-Duck-stairs, 
 nearly opposite King's- Arms-stairs in the Isle of Dogs. They 
 were opened in 1807, and consist principally of the old 
 Greenland Docks for Greenland ships, enlarged and provided 
 with warehouses for bonding foreign corn. They comprise 
 49 acres, 40 of which are water ; and are principally used by 
 vessels engaged in the Baltic and East Country commerce 
 and importation of timber. Office of the Company, Xo. 106, 
 Fenchurch-street. The removal of the mud deposited in the 
 Docks by the steam navigation of the Thames, costs the 
 Company, on an average, about 1000?. a yeai*. The office of 
 the company is at 106, Fenchurch-street. 
 
 CORX EXCHAXGE, Mark Lane, City, projected and 
 opened 1747, enlarged and partly rebuilt in 1827, and 
 reopened, June 24th, 1828. The market days are Monday, 
 "Weduesdav, and Friday, and the hours of business are from
 
 i'Z VIII. RAILWAY STATIONS. 
 
 10 to 3; Monday is tuo principal day. "\Mieat is paid for in 
 bills at one month, and all other descriptions of corn and 
 grain in bills at two mouths. The Kentish '•' hoj^men " (dis- 
 tinguished by their sailors' jackets) have stands free of 
 expense, and pay less for rentage and dues than othei'S. 
 
 COAL EXCHAXGE, in Lower Thames Street, nearly 
 opposite Billingsgate, established pursuant to 47 Geo. III., 
 cap. 68. The first stone of the present building (J. B. 
 Bunning, ai'chitect) was laid Dec. 14th, 1847, and the building 
 opened by Prince Albert, in j)erson, Oct. 30th, 1849, In 
 making the foundations a Roman hypocaust was laid open, 
 l^erhaps the most interesting of the many Roman remains 
 . discovered in London. It has been arched ovei', and is still 
 visible. The interior decorations of the Exchange are by 
 F. Sang, and are both appropriate and instnictive, represent- 
 ing the various species of ferns, palms, and other plants found 
 fossilised amid strata of the coal formation ; the principal 
 collieries and mouths of the shafts ; poi'tx-aits of men who 
 have rendered service to the trade; colliers' tackle, imple- 
 ments, &c. The floor is laid in the form of the mariner's 
 compass, and consists of upwards of 40,000 pieces of wood. 
 The black oak portions were taken from the bed of the 
 Tj'ne, and the mulbeny wood introduced as the blade of 
 the dagger in the City shield was taken from a tree said ta 
 have been planted by Peter the Great when working in this 
 country as a shipwright. 20,000 seamen are employed in 
 the carrying department alone of the Loudon Coal Trade. 
 
 LONDOX A^^D NORTH AVESTERX RAIL^YAY STA- 
 TION, EusTOX Square, one of the finest railway stations in 
 London, will be found to repay a visit. The depot of the 
 Company at Euston-squarc is of enormous and increasing 
 niaguitude. The total length of the line in which the Com- 
 pany is interested, directly or indirectly, is 1141 miles, and 
 the total amount expended up to October, 1848 (when the 
 great financial statement of the Company was made), was 
 22,835,120?. The great Hall at Euston-square station (opened 
 May, 1849), was built from the designs of P. C. Hardwick, sou 
 of Philip Hardwick, R.A., and the building is said to have 
 cost 150,000?. The bas-reliefs of London, Liverpool, Man- 
 chester, &c., are by John Thomas, the sculptor of the statues 
 and bosses at the New Houses of Parliament. 
 
 The LONDON BRIDGE STATION is the property of two 
 Companies, and is a more wonderful sight, from the compli- 
 cation of its rails, than any other station in London or indeed 
 elsevrhere. The station at King's Cros?, in the New-road.
 
 IX. METROPOLITAN CATTLE MARKET. 73 
 
 of the Great Xortherx Eailwat Company, opened in 
 1852, will repay a yisit; as -will that of the Great Western- 
 Railway Company, now (1856) nearly completed. 
 
 Some further notion of the extent of private enterprise in 
 this country may be obtained from the establishment of 
 Messrs. Cox and Greenwood, the large army agents in Craig's- 
 court, Charing-cross. They employ about 48 clei'ks for 
 Regimental agency alone, and these are maintained at an 
 amiual cost of 12,500?. Of the 35,000Z. a year, or thereabouts, 
 paid by the Government for Army agency, something like 
 23,000^ a year is paid to the firm of Cox and Greenwood. 
 
 IX.-MARKETS. 
 
 METROPOLITAN^ CATTLE MARKET (between Isling- 
 ton and Camden Town) — the modern Smithfield — the live- 
 stock and meat market of London — erected 18 51 -5, after a 
 long parliamentary struggle with the Corporation of London,. 
 and publicly opened by Prince Albert, 13th June, 1855. 
 Architect, Mr. Banning. The market occupies 30 acres, and 
 is said to have cost atleast 300,000/. 
 
 Salesmen estimate the weight of cattle by the eye, and, 
 from constant practice, are seldom out more than a few 
 poimds. The sales are always for cash. ISTo j^aper is passed, 
 but when the bargain is struck, the buyer and seller shake 
 hands and close the sale. Several millions are annually paid 
 away in this manner. The average weekly sale of beasts is 
 about 3000; and of sheep about 30,000, increased in the 
 Christmas week to about 5000 beasts, and 50,000 sheep. 
 The late Smithfidd mai'ket was an open area, in the form of 
 an iiTegTilar polygon, containing five acres and three quarters, 
 surrounded by bone-houses, catgut manufactories, public- 
 houses, and knackers' yards. The name would seem to have 
 been originally Smoothfield, " camx^us planus." Monday was 
 set apart for fat cattle and sheep ; Txxesday, Thursday, and 
 Saturday, for hay and straw ; Friday, cattle and sheep and 
 milch cows, and at 2 o'clock for scrubhorses and asses. 
 
 "Fidstaff. AYhere's Bardolplr? 
 
 '•■ Page. He 's gone into Smithfield to buy j'our -worsliip a horse. 
 
 " Falstoff. I bought him in Paul's, and he '11 buy me a horse in 
 Smithfield : an I could get me but a wife in the SteTvs, I were manned, 
 horsed, and wived." — Shakespeare, 2nd Part of Henry IV., Act i., sc. 2. 
 
 All sales took place by commission ; the City receiving a 
 toll upon every beast exposed to sale of 1(/. per head, and of 
 sheep at 2d. per score, and for every pen Is. The total pi'O- 
 duce to the Corporation was from 5000?. to 6000?. a-year.
 
 74 IX. — BILLINGSGATE. 
 
 " Different statements have from time to time been put fortli respecting 
 the consumption of the principal products brought to London ; but, vrith 
 the exception of coal, and one or two otlier articles, there are no means 
 by which to arrive at anything like a correct conclusion. Allowing for 
 tiie carcases imported by steam and otherwise, the annual consumption 
 of butcher's meat may, however, be at ^iresent (1851) estimated at about 
 240,000 bulloclvs, 1,700,000 sheep, 28,000 calves, and 35,000 pigs, exclusive 
 of vast quantities of bacon and ham." — JIc CullocKs London in 1850-1851, 
 p. 55. 
 
 Smithfield is famous iu History for its jousts, tournaments, 
 executions, and burnings, and in the present day for its 
 market, the great cattle market of the largest city in the 
 world. Here AYallaco and the gentle Mortimer were exe- 
 cuted. Here, on Saturday the loth of June, 1381, 
 Sir William Walworth slew AN'at Tyler ; the King standing 
 towards the east near St. Bartholomew's Priory, and the 
 Commons towards the west in form of battle. The stake, at 
 which so many of the ]\rarian martyrs died, v,-as fixed imme- 
 diately opposite the church of St. Bai-tholomew the Great. 
 Here too, from September 3rd to 6th, was held the far-famed 
 Bartholomeio Fair, once one of the leading fairs iu England, 
 but for a century and more (until its abolition iu 1851) only 
 a nuisance. 
 
 BILLINGSGATE, the great fish-market of London (of red 
 brick, with stone dressings.) lies a little below Loudon Bridge 
 on the left bank of the Thames (]VIr. Banning, architect). 
 Tills celebrated space was appointed by Queen Elizabeth "an 
 open place for the landing and bringing in of any fish, corn, 
 salt, stores, victua,ls, and fruit (grocery ware excepted), and 
 to be a place of carrying forth of the same, or the like, 
 and for no other merchandizes." In the reign of William III., 
 it was made on and after May 10th, 1699, ''a free and open 
 market for all sorts of fish." It is now regulated pursuant 
 to 9 & 10 Vict. c. 346. 
 
 "How this gate took that name, or of vdiat antiquity the same is, 
 I must leave nucertain, as not having read any ancient record thereof, 
 more than that Geffrey Monmouth writeth, that Belin, a king of the 
 Britons, about four hundred years before Christ's Nativity, built this 
 gate, and nxmed it Belin's gate, after his own calling ; and that when he 
 was dead, his body being burnt, the ashes in a vessel of brass were set 
 upon a high pinnacle of stone over the same gate. It seemetli to me not 
 to be so ancient, but rather to have taken that name of some later owner 
 of the place, happily named IJeling or Biling, as Somer's key, Smart's 
 key, Frost wharf, and others thereby, took their names of their 
 owners." — Stoic, p. 17. 
 
 The coarse language of the place has long been fiunous : — 
 '• There stript, fair lihctoric languished on the ground; 
 His blunted arms by sophistry are bonie. 
 And shameless Billingsgate her robes adorn." 
 
 Pope, The Dunciail, B. iv.
 
 IX. NEWGATE MARKET. 75 
 
 " Oue may term Billingsgate," sa3'S old Fuller, " the Esculiue 
 gate of Londou." 
 
 The market opens at 5 o'clock throughout the year. All 
 fish are sold by the tale except salmon, which is sold by 
 weight, and oysters and shell-fish, which are sold by measure. 
 The salmon imports are from Scotland and Ireland, and from 
 Holland, and the north of Europe. The best cod is brought 
 from the Dogger-bank, and the greater number of the lobsters 
 from Koi'way. The eels are chiefly from Holland. The 
 oyster season commences 4ch August. Many attempts have 
 been made to estimate the value of the fish sold or consumed 
 iu London. The consumption is less than the sale, the 
 opening of railways having made London the fish-market 
 of at least half of England. Salmon is sent in boxes on com- 
 mission to agents, who charge 5 per cent, and take the risk of 
 bad debts. This business is in few hands, and those en- 
 gaged in it are the most wealthy of all dealers iu fish. 
 
 •• I ascertained," says Mr. Mayhew, writing in 1850, "from 
 the authorities at Billingsgate, and from experienced sales- 
 men, that of the quantity of fish conveyed to that great mart, 
 the costermougers bought one-third ; another third was sent 
 into the countr}- ; and another disposed of to the fishmongers, 
 and to such hotel-keepers, or other large purchasers, as 
 resorted to Billingsgate." 
 
 Here every day (at 1 and 4), at the "Three Tims Tavern," 
 a capital dinner may be had for Is. 6d., including three kinds 
 of fish, joints, steaks, and bread and cheese. 
 
 COVEXT GARDEN MARKET, the great fruit, vegetable, 
 and herb market of London, originated (circ. 1656) iu a few 
 temporary stalls and sheds at the back of the garden wall of 
 Bedford-house on the south side of the square. The present 
 Market-place (William Fowler, architect) was erected (1830) 
 at the expense of the late Duke of Bedford. The market is 
 rated (1849) to the poor at 4800?., rather under than above 
 the amount derived from the rental and the tolls. The 
 stranger in Loudon who wishes to see what Covent-garden 
 Market is like, should visit it on a Tuesday, Thursday, or Satur- 
 daj'' morning in summer, betvreen 3 and 7 o'clock. To see 
 the supply of fiiiit and vegetables carted off", 7 a.m. is early 
 enough. To enjoy the sight and smell of flowers and fruit, 
 the finest in the world, any time from 10 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m. 
 will answer. The centre arcade at mid-day is one of the 
 prettiest sights in London. Saturday is the best day. 
 
 NEWGATE ]VL\RKET, between Newgate-street and 
 Paternoster-row, the great carcase-market of London,
 
 /b IX. — LEADEXHALL MARKET. 
 
 originally a meal market. It is much frequentccl, and grew 
 into reputation from the time Avhen the stalls and sheds were 
 removed from Butcher-hall-lane and the localities adjoining 
 the now destroyed church of St. Nicholas Shambles. The 
 West End carcase butchers come to this market for almost 
 all their meat ; and Newgate-street, on a market morning, has 
 not been unaptly likened to one continuous butcher's tray. 
 
 LEADEXHALL MARKET, between Gracechurch-street 
 and the East India House. A large market for butchers' 
 meat, fish, poultry, vegetables, leather, hides, bacon, &c. 
 The manor-house of Leadenhall, which gave the name to the 
 mai'ket, belonged (1309) to Sir Hugh Neville, knight, and 
 was converted into a g-ranary for the City by Simon Eyre,, 
 draper, and Mayor of London, in 1445. It appears to have 
 been a large building and covered with lead, then an unusual 
 roofing on halls and houses. The market escaped the Great 
 Fire of 1666. 
 
 '■ WonlcVst thou with mighty beef augment thy meal 
 Seek Lcadeuhall." — Gnyj^ Trivia. 
 
 Leadenhall is no longer celebrated for its beef, but is de- 
 servedly esteemed as the largest and best poultry market in 
 London. 
 
 Of the minor markets in London, Huxgerford Market and 
 Farrixgdox Market are the two largest. The former is a 
 general market for butchers' meat, fish, poultry'', flowers, and 
 fruit. Farringdon is the gi'eat water-cress- market of London. 
 
 " To visit Farringdon Market on a Monday morning [not later than 
 six] is the only proper way to .iudge of the fortitude and courage and 
 perseverance of the poor." — H. Ilayhevs. 
 
 The greatest number of horses are sold at Tattersall's in 
 Grosvenor-place, close to the Duke of Wellington's, and 
 entered by a narrow lane at the side of St. George's Hospital. 
 The mart was so called after Richard Tattersall (d. 1795), 
 originally a training groom to the second and last Duke of 
 Kingston, who laid the foundation of his fortune by the pur- 
 chase, for 2500Z., of the celebrated horse '•' Highflyer." All 
 horses for sale must be sent on the Friday before the day of 
 sale. The days of sale are Mondays throughout the year, and 
 Thursdays in the height of the season. Here is a subscrip- 
 tion-room, under the revision of the Jockey Club (who have 
 rooms in Old Bond-street), and attended by all the pati^ons of 
 the turf, from noblemen down to innkeepers. Days of meet- 
 ing, Monday and Thursday throughout the year. Settling 
 days, Tuesday after the Derby, Monday after the St. Leger. 
 It is necessarv to have an introduction from a subscriber.
 
 X. BREAVERIES. 
 
 Annual subscription, '21. 2s. The number of niembei-s is 
 stated to be between three and four hundred. The betting 
 at Tattei'sall's retriUates the betting throughout the countiT. 
 
 X.-BREWERIES. 
 
 Aiio>-G the many curiosities to be seen in London few 
 will be found more interesting to the agricultuiist than 
 a visit to one or other of the great breweries. The fol- 
 lowing statement of the malt used by the most eminent 
 London brewers in one year, is supposed to be an average 
 of the consumption for some years past ; — 
 
 Qrs. 
 Barclay, Perkins, and Co., Park-street, Soiitlivrark . . 127,000 
 
 Hanburv and Co., Brick-lane, Spitaliields 105,022 
 
 Meux and Co., Tottenham Court Road 59,617 
 
 Reid and Co., Liquorpond-street, Gray's Inn-lane . . . 56,640 
 Whitbread and Co., Chiswell-st., Old-street-road, St. Luke's 51,800 
 Combe and Co., Castle-street, Long Acre .... 43,282 
 
 Calvert and Co., 89, Upper Thames-street 29,630 
 
 Mann and Co., 172, Whitechapel-road 24,030 
 
 Charriugton and Co., Mile-end-road 22,023 
 
 Thorn and Co., Horseterry-road, Millbank .... 21,016 
 Taylor and Co., HoUoway 15,870 
 
 At Barclay's (the largest, extending over 11 acres) 600 quar- 
 ters of malt are brewed daily. Among the many vats, one 
 is pointed out containing 3500 barrels of porter, which, at 
 the selling price, wovdd yield 9000Z. The water used is 
 drawn from a well 367 feet deep. One himdred and eighty 
 horses are employed in the cartage department. They are 
 brought priucipaUy from Flandei-s, cost from 50/. to SOL 
 each, and are noble specimens of the cart-horse breed. 
 There ai'e four partners in Barclay's house, who conduct 
 every depa.rtment of it in the most liberal manner. Theii- 
 head brewer has a salaiy of 1000/. a year. The foujider of 
 the firm was Henry Thrale, the friend of Dr. Johnson. The 
 business, at Thrale's death, was sold by Johnson and his 
 brother executor, in behalf of Mrs. Thrale, to Messrs. Barclay 
 Perkins, and Co.^ for 135,000/. '-'We are not here," said 
 Johnson on the day of sale, " to sell a parcel of boilers and 
 vats, but the potentiality of growing rich beyond the di*eams 
 of avarice." Robert Barclay, the first of the name in the 
 finn (d. 1831), was a descendant of the famous Barclay 
 who wi-ote the Apology for the Quakers, and Perkins was the 
 chief clerk on Thi-ale"s establishment. While on his tour to 
 the Hebrides, in 1773, Johnson mentioned that Thrale "paid 
 20,000/. a year to the revenue, and that he had four vats, each
 
 78 XI. — WATER COMPANIES. 
 
 of which held 1600 barrels, above a thousand hogsheads." 
 The amount at present paid to the revenue by the firm is 
 nine times 20,000?. 
 
 The visitor should exert his influence among his friends to 
 obtain an order of admission to any one of the largest I have 
 named. Foreigners wearing moustaches had better abstain 
 altogether, remembering the disgraceful treatment which an 
 Austrian officer received in one of these establishments. The 
 best London porter and stout in draught is to be had at the 
 Cock Tavern, 201, Fleet-street, and at the Rainbow Tavern, 
 15, Fleet-street, immediately opposite. Judges of ale recom- 
 mend John O'Groat's, 61, Rupert-street, Haymarket ; and 
 the Edinburgh Castle, 322, Strand. 
 
 XI.- WATER COMPANIES. 
 
 The cities of London and "Westminster, and the borough 
 of South wark, and certain parishes and places adjacent 
 thereto, are at present supplied with water b}' nine Com- 
 panies, who exercise absolute and irresponsible discretion in 
 the quality, price, and quantity, of the article they sell. 
 These Companies are : — New River CoMPA^'Y ; East Lon- 
 don Water AVorks Company ; Southwark and Vauxhall 
 Water Company; West Middlesex Water Works Com- 
 pany ; Lambeth Water AVoeks Company ; Chelsea Water 
 Works Company; Grand Junction Water Works Com- 
 pany ; Kent Water Works Company ; Hampstead Water 
 Works Company. 
 
 The daily supply at present (1850) is nearly 46 millions of 
 gallons per day, of which 20 millions are from the Thames, 
 and 26 millions from the New River and other sources. This 
 supply is equal, it is said, to a river 9 feet wide and 3 feet deep, 
 running at two miles an hour. The City is entirely supplied 
 from the New River and the River Lea ! not by the Thames. 
 The nine companies supply 271,795 tenements; the New 
 River supplying 83,206 of that number. At present (1856) 
 the Thames is at once our cistern and our cesspool; but 
 this great disgrace to Government and individual enterprise 
 is in some degree remedied, as far as supply is concerned — an 
 Act passed in 1852 directing that on and after 31st of 
 August, 1855, no companies, except the Chelsea Company, 
 shall take water from any part of the Thames below 
 Teddington Lock.
 
 XII. SEWERAGE. 79 
 
 The NEW rJVER is an artificial .stream, 38 miles, 
 
 3 quarter.?, and 16 poles in length, about 18 feet wide and 
 
 4 feet deep, projected 1608-9, and completed 1620, by Sir 
 Hugh Myddelton, a native of Denbigh, in "Wales, and a member 
 of the Goldsmiths' Company, for the jHu-pose of supplying the 
 City of London with water. Xearly rviined by his scheme, 
 Myddelton parted with his interest in it to a company, 
 called the Xew River Company, in whose hands it still 
 remains, reseiwing to himself and his heirs for ever an 
 annuity of 100/. per annum. This annuity ceased to be 
 claimed about the year 1715. The river has its rise at 
 Chadwell Spring.s, situated in meadows, midway between 
 Hertford and Ware, runs for several miles parallel "v\i.th the 
 river Lea, from which it borrows water at "Ware, and at last 
 empties itself into 83,206 tenements, or the throats of 800,000 
 persons, having nm nearly double the niunber of miles re- 
 quired by a straight line from its source to London. The 
 piincipal spring, marked by a stone erected by the Company, 
 is now a spacious basin with an islet, containing a monu- 
 ment to Myddelton, erected, in 1800, by Mylne, the 
 architect and engineer. The dividend for the year 1633, 
 which is beheved to have been the fii'st, was 15?. 3s. 3(?. 
 A single share bequeathed by Myddelton to the Gold.smiths' 
 Company for charitable purposes, produces 900?. a year. 
 The main of the ISTew Eiver at Islington was, it is said, 
 shut down at the time of the Great Fu-e of London in 
 1666 ; a.nd it was believed by some, who pretended to the 
 means of knowing, that the supply of water had been stopped 
 by Captain John Graunt, a papist, under whoso name Sir 
 William Petty published his Observations on the Bills of Mor- 
 tality. The stoiy, however, it is reasonable to think, was a 
 mere party invention of those heated times. One of the 
 figures in Tempest's Cries of London, executed and published 
 in the reign of James II., carries " Xew River Water." 
 
 XII.-SEWERAGE. 
 
 The ordinary daily amount of London sewerage discharged 
 into the River Thames on the X. side has been calculated 
 at 7,015,120 cubic feet, and on the south side 2,457,600 cubic 
 feet, making a total of 9,502,720 cubic feet, or a quantity 
 equivalent to a surface of more than 36 acres in extent and 
 6 feet in depth. Of the 9 square miles of the London district on 
 the S. side, three miles are from G to 7 feet below high water-
 
 80 XII. — SEWERAGE. 
 
 mark, so that the locality may be said to be draiued only 
 for 4 hours out of the 12, and during these 4 hours veiy 
 imperfectly. The sewers now empty themselves into the 
 Thames at various levels. AVhen the tide rises above the 
 oiifices of these sewers, the Avhole drainage of the district is 
 stopped until the tide recedes again, rendering the whole 
 river side system of sewers in Kent and Surrey a succession of 
 cesspools.* Within the City of London alone, which is said 
 to include about 50 miles of streets, alleys, and courts, there 
 ai'e 49 miles of sewerage. The late Mi-. Frank Forster's 
 scheme (adopted by the Board of Health and the Commis- 
 sioners of Sewers) is to have the sewage of the N. side 
 conveyed, by intercepting sewers or trunk drains, to a point 
 called the "Pumping Station," on the eastern bank of the 
 river Lea, whence it will be again transferred to a second 
 point four miles distant, on the bank of the river lloding, at 
 the eastern extremity of Galleons Reach, a little below 
 Blackwall. Here there is to be a reservoir, in which the 
 sewage will accumulate during flood tide, and be thence 
 effectually discharged during the first 3 hours of the ebb. 
 This, it will be seen, gets rid of cesspools, and supplies a 
 direct di'ainage instead. The cost, at the lowest calculation, 
 will be at least a million, exclusive of what may be reqmred 
 for laud-purchases and compensations. Of this great work, 
 the Victoria-street sewer, extending from Scotland Yard 
 Whitehall, through Parliament-square and Victoria-street, to 
 Shaftesbury-terrace, Pimlico, is now (May, 1856) in course of 
 formation. 
 
 * Mr. Stephenson, in the Tones of 10th August, 1850.
 
 -TOWER OF LONDON. 81 
 
 Xlll.-TOWER OF LONDON. 
 
 TOWER OF LONDOX, tlie most celebrated fortress in 
 Great Britain, stands immediately icitkont the City walls, on 
 the left or Middlesex bank of the Thames, and "below 
 bridge." 
 
 "This ToTver," says Stow, "is a citadel to defend or command the 
 City; a royal palace for assemblies or treaties; a prison of state for the 
 most dangerous offenders ; tlie only place of coinage for all England at 
 this time ; the armoury for -n-ai'like provisions ; the treasury of the 
 ornaments and jewels of the Crown; and general conserver of most of 
 the records of the King's courts of justice at Westminster." — Stoic, p. 23. 
 
 Tradition has carried its erection many centuries eai'Uer than 
 om- recoi-ds : — 
 
 " Prince. AVhere shall we sojourn till our coronation ? 
 '• frloster. AYhere it seems best unto your royal self. 
 If I may counsel you, some day or two 
 Your highness will repose you at the Tower. 
 
 •' Pri/'Cr. I do not like the Tower, of any place. — 
 Did Julius CcPsar build that place, my lord? 
 
 " Buck. He did, my gracious lord, begin that place. 
 Which since succeeding ages have re-editied. 
 "Prince. Is it upon record, or else reported 
 Successively from age to age, he built it "? 
 •■ £uck. Upon record, my gracious lord." 
 
 Shaksjyeare, King Piichard III., Act iii., SC. 1. 
 
 " This is the way 
 To Julius Cesar's ill-erected Tower." 
 
 Sluihspeare, King Puchard II., Act v., so. 1. 
 
 " Ye towers of Julius, London's lasting shame, 
 With manv a foul and midnight mui-der fed." 
 
 Gray, The Bard. 
 
 Antiquaries fail to confirDi tradition in the remote antiquity 
 assigned to the Tower. Xo part of the existing stracture is 
 of a date anterior to the Keep, or the gi'eat white and square 
 tower in the centre, called the White Towei", and this, it is 
 well known, was built by William the Conqueror (circ. 1078), 
 the King appointing Gundulph, Bishop of Rochester, to be
 
 82 XIII. TOAYER OF LONDON. 
 
 principal sui-A-eyor and overseer of that work. The chapel in 
 this Tower, now the Record Room, is one of the most 
 complete remaining specimens of a Norman church, on a 
 small scale. 
 
 The Tower was formerly accessible by four gates only : the 
 Lions' Gate, on the W. side, where the lions and Kmg's beasts 
 were kept, and still the principal entrance ; by the Water 
 Gate, for receipt of boats and small vessels ; by the Iron 
 Gate, a great and strong gate, but not usually opened ; and 
 by Ti-aitors' Gate, a small postern with a drawbridge, fronting 
 the Thames, seldom let down but for the receii)t of some 
 great persons, prisoners. 
 
 " On through that gate misnamed, through which before 
 Went Sidney, Russell, Ealeigh, Cranmer, More."' 
 
 Bogers's Human Life. 
 
 It was also defended by a broad, deep ditch of water, long 
 an eyesore and unwholesome, more like a sewer than the 
 wet ditch of a fortification ; till it was drained and made a 
 garden, as we now see it, in 1843. The towers within the 
 fortress are called the Lion Tower ; the Middle Tower ; the 
 Bell Tower, said to have been the prison of Fisher, Bishop of 
 Rochester, and afterwards of Queen Elizabeth ; the Bloody 
 Towei', so called, it is said, from the sons of Edward IV. 
 supposed to have been murdered there, and described by the 
 Duke of Wellington as the best if not the onty good place of 
 security, at the disposition of the officers of the Tower, in 
 which state prisoners can be placed ; * the Beauchamp, or 
 Wakefield Tower, on the W. side, carefully restored in 1853 
 by Mr. Salviu, the place of imprisonment of Anna Boleyn, 
 and scratched over with inscriptions cut by prisoners con- 
 fined within its walls. It derives its name from Thomas de 
 Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, imprisoned in it in 1397; — the 
 Develin Tower ; the Bowyer Tower, on the X. side, where the 
 Duke of Clarence, it is traditionally believed, was drowned in 
 a butt of Malmsey : the Brick Towei', on the X.E. side, the 
 prison, it is said, of Lady Jane Grey ; the Martin Tower, near 
 the site of the Jewel House ; and the Salt Tower, on the E. side, 
 containing the curious sphere, with the signs of the zodiac, &c., 
 engi'aved on the walls, Maj" 30th, 1561, by Hugh Draper, of 
 Bristol, committed to the Tower in 1560, on suspicion of 
 sorcery and practice against Sir William St. Lowe and his lady. 
 It is much to be regretted that the several Towers, more 
 especially the fine old Xorman chapel in the White Tower, are 
 not accessible to the public. The keeper of the Tower was 
 
 * Appendix I. to Eighth Report of Deputy Keeper of Public Records.
 
 GROUND PLAN OF THE TOWER. 
 
 A Lion Tower. 
 
 B Middle Tower. 
 
 C Bell Tower. 
 
 D Lieutenant's Lodgings. 
 
 E Bloody Tower. 
 
 F Entrance to .\rraoiiries. 
 
 G Salt Tower. 
 
 II Brick Tower,— Lady Jane Grey confined in. 
 I Bowyer Tower,— Duke of Clarence murdered in. 
 K Beauchamp Tower,— Anna Boleyn imprisoned in. 
 L Entrance Gate. 
 
 G 2
 
 84 XIII. — TOWER OF Lo^'DO^^ 
 
 called the Lieutenant of the Tower, whose lodgings were iii- 
 the S.W. part of the building, to the left of the Bloody 
 Tower. Opposite to the church, at the S.W. corner of the 
 Tower Green, ai'e " The Lieutenant's Lodgings," a structure 
 of the time of Henry YIIL, now the residence of the Governor. 
 In a room of this house, called the Council Chamber, the 
 commissioners met to examine Guy Fawkes and his accom- 
 plices ; an event commemorated by a curious monument, 
 constructed of party-coloured marbles, and with inscriptions 
 in Latin and Hebrew. In another part of this building is an, 
 inscription carved on an old mantelpiece relating to the 
 Countess of Lenox, grandmother of James the First, " com- 
 mitede prysner to thys TiOgyngefor the Marige of her Sonne, 
 my Lord Henry Darnle and the Queene of Scotlande." 
 The present representative of the "Lieutenant" is called 
 Constable of the Tower, an office held by the late Duke 
 of Wellington. The visitor is conducted over the Tower 
 ai-mouries by the warders of the Tower, who wear the dress 
 of the yeomen of the guard of the reign of Henry YIII. 
 The entrance is by the eastern gate, and ticket? must h& 
 bought at the Ticket-office, on your right as you enter. The- 
 Armoury tickets and the Jewel-house tickets are the same 
 price, 6f/. each. The warders conduct parties of twelve in 
 number every half-hour from half-past 10 to 4 inclusive. 
 
 The Horse Armour 1/ is contained in a handsome gallery 150 
 feet long by 33 feet wide, built in 1826 on the south side of 
 the "White Tower. The general assignment of the suits and 
 arrangement of the gallery were made by the late Sir Samuel 
 Meyrick, of Goodrich Court, and author of A Critical Inquiry'- 
 into Ancient Armour. The centre is occupied by a line of 
 equesti'ian figures, 22 in number, clothed in the armour of 
 various reigns, from the time of Edward I. to James II. 
 (1272 — 1688). Each suit is assigned, for the sake of chrono- 
 logy, to some king or knight, but none are known to have 
 been worn by the persons to whom they are assigned, except 
 in a very few instances (such as Henry YIII. : Dudley, Earl 
 of Leicester; Henry, Prince of Wales; and Charles L). 
 Observe. — In the centre of this gallery, suit of the time of 
 Edward I. (1272 — 1307), consisting of a hauberk witli sleeves 
 and cliausses. and hood with camail ; the emblazoned surcoat 
 and baudric are modern ; the spui's are prick-spm\s. Suit of 
 the time of Henry YL (1422—1461); the back and breast- 
 plates ai-e flexible armour, the sleeves and skirt of chain 
 mail, the gauntlets fluted, the helmet a salade armed with a 
 frontlet and surmounted by a crest. Suit of the time of 
 Edward lY. (1461—1483) ; the vamplate or guard of the
 
 XIII. TOWER OF LONDON. 80 
 
 tiltiug-lauce is aucient, the Avar-sadclle is of later cL.ite. Suit 
 of ribbed armour of the time of Richard III. (1483 — 1485), 
 ■\voru by the Marquis of Waterford at the Eglintouii Tourna- 
 nient. Suit of fluted armour, of German fabric, of the time 
 of Heury VIL (1485—1509), the kuight dismounted ; the 
 helmet is called a burgonet, and was invented bj" the Bur- 
 gundiaus. Suit of fluted armour of the same reign ; the 
 -iU-mour of the horse is complete all but the flauchards. 
 Suit of damasked armour, known to have been ^vorn by 
 Henry VIII. (1509 — 1547) ; the stirrups are curious from 
 their great size. Two suits of the same reign, called Charles 
 Brandon, Duke of Sufi'olk, and Edward Clinton, Eaid of 
 Lincoln. Suit in central recess (loehiud you) of German 
 -workmanship, very fine, and originallj^ gilt, made to com- 
 memorate the union of Henry YIII. and Katherine of Aragon. 
 The badges of this king and queen, the rose and pomegranate, 
 iu"e engraved on various parts of the armour. On the fans 
 of the genouilleres is the Sheaf of Arrows, the device adopted 
 by Ferdinand, the father of Katherine, on his conquest of 
 Granada. Heury "s badges, the Portcullis, the Fleur-de-lys, 
 and the Red Dragon, also appear ; and on the edge of the 
 lamboys or skirts are the initials of the royal pair, '•' H.K.," 
 united by a true-lover's knot. The same letters similarly 
 united by a knot, which includes also a curious love-badge 
 formed of a half rose and half pomegranate, are engraved ou 
 the croupiere of the horse. Suit of the time of Edward VI. 
 (1547 — 1553), embossed and embellished with the badges of 
 Burgundy and Granada, and formerly exhibited as the suit 
 of Edward the Black Prince. Suit assigned to Francis 
 Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon (1555). Suit actually worn 
 by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, of the time of Queen 
 Ehzabeth; the Earl's initials, R. D., are engraved on the 
 genouilleres, and his cognizance of the Bear and Ragged 
 Staff on the chanfron of the horse. Suit assigned to Sir 
 Henry Lea (1570), and formerly exhibited as the suit of 
 Vv^illiam the Conqueror. Suit assigned to Robert Devereux, 
 Earl of Essex (1581), and v/orn by the Kings champion 
 at the coronation of George II. Suit of the time of James I., 
 formerly shown as the suit of Henry IV. Suits assigned to 
 •Sir Hoi-ace Vere and Thomas, Earl of Aiamdel, of the time of 
 James I. Suit actually made for Henry, Prince of Wales, 
 eldest son of James I., richly gilt, and engraved Avith battles, 
 sieges, &c. Smt assigned to George Villiers, Duke of Buck- 
 ingham, the favourite of James I. Suit made for Charles I., 
 when Prince of "Wales. Suit assigned to Wentworth, Earl of 
 Strafford. Richly gilt suit presented to Charles I., when
 
 86 XIII. — TOWER OF LONDON. 
 
 Prince of Wales; this suit was laid on tlie coffin of the great 
 Duke of Marlborough at his first interment in Westniinstei; 
 Abbey ; the face of the king was carved by Grinling Gibbons. 
 Suit, with burgonet, assigned to Monk, Duke of Albemarle. 
 Suit assigned to James II., but evidently of William III.'s 
 reign, from the W.R. engraved on several parts of it; the 
 face was carved by Grinling Gibbons for Charles II. Obso've, 
 in other parts of the gallery, and in the cabinets, (ask the 
 warder to shov\'them to you,) suit of the time of Hemy VIII., 
 formerly exhibited as John of Gaunt's. Suit, '•' rough from 
 the hammer," said in the old inventories to have belonged to 
 Henry YIII. Asiatic suit (platform, north side) from Tong 
 Castle, in Shropshire, probably of the age of the Cinisades, 
 and the oldest armour in the Tower collection. " Anticke 
 head-piece," with ram's horns and spectacles on it, assigned 
 in the old inventories to Will Somers, Henry YIII.'s jester, 
 and probably worn by him. Ancient warder's horn of carved 
 ivory. Helmet, belt, straight sword, and scimitars of Tippoo 
 Saib. Maltese cannon (of exquisite workmanshiji, " Philip 
 Lattarellus, delin. et sculp. 1773") taken by the French in 
 1798, and, while on its passage from Malta to Paris, captured 
 by Captain Foote, of the Seahorse frigate; the ban-el is 
 covered with figures in alto relievo ; in one part is the portrait 
 of the Grand Master of Malta ; the centre of each wheel 
 represents the sun. 
 
 Queeu EUzahcth'' s Armoury is entered from the Horse 
 Armouiy by a narrow staircase, ornamented with two 
 coloured carvuags in wood, called " Gin and Beer," from the 
 old buttery at Greenwich Palace, with a suit of armour, sent 
 to Charles II. by the Great Mogul, and long an object of 
 attraction at the Tower. This interesting room (recently 
 cased with wood in the Xorman style) is within the AMiite 
 Tower ; and the visitor would do well to examine the thick- 
 ness of the walls (fourteen feet thick), and to enter the 
 apartment, dark and small, traditionally reputed to have been 
 the prison of Sir ^^'alter Raleigh. On your left (as you enter 
 the Raleigh sleeping-room) are three inscriptions, rudely 
 carved in the stone (left open for inspection) by pi-isoners, in 
 the reign of Queen Mary, concerned in the plot of Su- Thomas 
 Wyatt. 
 
 "He that ixdvreth to the e.nde shall be savid M. 10. E. Rvdsox. 
 Gext. Axo. 1553."' 
 
 " Be faithfl'l vxto the deth axd I wil give thee a ckowxe of 
 LIFE. T. Fane, 1554." 
 
 " T. CULPEPER OF DarFORO." 
 
 Observe. — Earlv shields hung round the walls. Two wliite
 
 XIII. TOWER OF LOXDOX. 87 
 
 bows of yew, recovered in 1841 from the wreck of the Mray 
 Rose, sunk off Spithead in 1545; they are fresh in appearance, 
 as if they had been newly dehvered out of the bowyer's 
 hands. Spontoou of the guard of Henry YIII. " Great Holly 
 Water Sprincle with thre gonnes in the top," of the time of 
 Henry VHI. The " Iron Coller of Torment taken from y^ 
 Spanyard in y® year 1 588." '' The Cravat," an iron instrument 
 for confining at once the head, hands, and feet. Match- 
 lock petronel oi-namented with the badges of Heniy VIII., 
 the rose surmounted by a crown and the fleur-de-lys, with 
 the initials H.R., and other devices. Partizan engraved with 
 the arms of Sir Dudley Carleton, Viscount Dorchester, of the 
 time of Charles I., and formerl}' exhibited as '•' the Spanish 
 General's Staff." Heading-axe, said to have been used in the 
 execution of the Earl of Essex in the reigii of Queen Eliza- 
 beth. Block on which Lox'd Lovat Avas beheaded, in 1746 ; 
 Lord Lovat was the last person beheaded in this country : it 
 was a ne^o block for the occasion. Thumbikins, or thumb- 
 screws. A Lochabcr axe. Matchlock arquebuse, time of 
 Henry VIII. Shield of the sixteenth century, with the 
 death of Charles the Bold in high relief upon it. The cloak 
 on which General Wolfe died before Quebec. Sword and 
 belt of the Duke of Yoi'k, second son of King George HI. 
 Do not fail to examine with attention the caxmon and 
 other trophies without the walls of the White Tower, 
 on the south side. Several of these interesting remains 
 of early gunnery were seriously damaged in the gi-eat 
 fire of the 30th of October, 1841, in which the store- 
 house of arms, built in the reign of Yfilliam III., 
 was burnt to the ground. — Observe. — N'o. 7, a chamber or 
 gun of the time of Henr}^ VI. No. 17, a portion of a large 
 brass gun of the time of Henry VIII., said to have belonged 
 to the Great Harry, of which we have a representation in the 
 cux'ious picture at Hampton Court. Xo. 18, a gun of the 
 same reign, and thus inscribed, " Thomas Semeur Knyght 
 was master of the King's Ordynance whan lohn and Robeit 
 Owen Brethren made thys Pece Anno Domini 1546." Iron 
 serpent with chamber, time of Henry VIII., recovered fi'om 
 the wreck of the Mary Rose, sunk off Spithead, in 3 545, 
 Brass gun taken from the Chinese in 1842, and thus inscribed. 
 "Richard: Philips: made: this: Pece: An: Dni : IfJOl." 
 Two brass guns, called '•' Charles " and '•' Le Temeraire," cap- 
 tured from the French at Cherbourg, in 1758, bearing the 
 arms of France and the motto of Louis XIV., '•' Ultima ratio 
 regum." Large mortar employed by William III., at the 
 siege of Kamur.
 
 88 XTII. — TOWER OF LONDON. 
 
 The Jeud-Iajuse within the Tower was kept by a parti cvilar 
 officer called "The Master of the Jewel-house," formerly 
 esteemed the first Kuight Bachelor of England. The treasures 
 constituting the Regalia are arranged in the centre of a well- 
 lighted room, with an ample passage for ^^sitors to walk 
 round. Ohserre. — St. Edward's Crown, made for the coro- 
 nation of Charles II., and used in the coronations of all our 
 >Sovereigns since his time. This is the crown placed by the 
 Aix'hbishop of Canterbury on the head of the Sovereign at 
 the altar, and the identical crown which Blood stole from the 
 Tower on the 9th of May, 1671.— The Xew State Crown, 
 made for the coronation of Queen Victoria ; composed of a 
 cap of purple velvet, enclosed by hoops of silver, and studded 
 with a profusion of diamonds ; it Aveighs one pound and 
 three quarters. The large unpolished iiiby is said to have 
 been worn by Edward the Black Prince; the sapphire is of 
 great value, and the whole crov.-n is estimated at 111,900?. — 
 The Prince of AYales's crown, of pure gold, unadorned by 
 jewels. — The Queen Consort's Crown, of gold, set with dia- 
 monds, pearls, &c.^ — The Queen's Diadem, or circlet of gold, 
 made for the coronation of Marie dEste, Queen of James II, 
 — St. Edward's stafi", of beaten gold, 4 feet 7 inches in length, 
 surmounted by an orb and cross, and shod A\-ith a steel spike. 
 The orb is said to contain a fragment of the true Cross. — The 
 Eoyal Sceptre, or Sceptre with the Cross, of gold, 2 feet 9 
 inches in length ; the staif is plain, and the pommel is orna- 
 mented with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds. The fleurs-de- 
 lys with which this sceptre was formerly adonied have been 
 replaced by golden leaves bearing the rose, shamrock, and 
 thistle. The cross is covered Avith jewels of various kinds, 
 and has in the centre a large table diamond. — The Rod of 
 Equity, or Sceptre with the Dove, of gold, 3 feet 7 inches in 
 length, set with diamonds, &c. At the top is an orb, banded 
 W'ith rose diamonds, and surmounted with a cross, on which 
 is the figure of a dove with expanded wings. — The Queen's 
 Sceptre Avith the Cross, smaller in size, but of rich A\'orkmau- 
 ship, and set Avith precious stones. — The Queen's Ivory 
 Sceptre (but called the Sceptre of Queen Anna Boleyn), made 
 for Marie d'Este, consort of James 11. It is mounted in gold, 
 and terminated by a golden cross, bearing a dove of white 
 onyx. — Sceptre found behind the wainscotting of the old 
 Jewel Ofiice, in 1814; supposed to have been made for 
 Queen Mary, consort of AVilliam III.— The Orb, of gold, 
 6 inches in diameter, banded Avith a fillet of the same metal, 
 set with pearls, and surmounted by a large amethyst sup- 
 porting a cross of gold. — The Queen's orb, of smaller
 
 XIII. — TOWEPw OF LONDON. 89 
 
 dimensioDS, but of similar fasliiou and materials. — The Sword 
 of Mercy, or Curtaua, of steel, ornameuted witli gold, and 
 pointless. — The Swords of Justice, Ecclesiastical and Tem- 
 poral. — The Armillse, or Coronation Bracelets, of gold, 
 chased with the rose, fieur-de-lys, and harp, and edged with 
 pearls. — The Koyal Spurs, of gold, used iu the coronation 
 ceremony, whether the sovereign be King or Queen. — The 
 Ampulla for the Holy Oil, iu shape of an eagle. — The Gold 
 Coronation Spoon, used for receiving the sacred oil from the 
 ampulla at the anointing of the sovereign, and supposed to 
 be the sole relic of the ancient regalia. — Tlie Golden Salt 
 Cellar of State, in the shape of a castle. — Baptismal Font, of 
 silver gilt, used at the Christening of the Royal Children — 
 Silver Wine Fountain, presented to Charles II. by the corpo- 
 ration of Plymouth. 
 
 Tke Lion Tower, containing the Tower Menagerie (on your 
 right as you enter), was one of the sights of Loudon from the 
 time of Henry III. to the reign of \\'illiam lY., and the removal 
 of the few animals that remained to the Zoological Gardens 
 in the Regent's Park. A century ago the lions in the Tov/er 
 were named after the reigning kings ; and it was long a 
 vulgar belief, '•' that when the king dies, the lion of that 
 name dies after him ; " that the lions in the tower were 
 the best judges of the title of our British Kings, and always 
 sympathised with our sovereigns. The Menagerie was 
 removed in November, 1834. The present Refreshment-room, 
 by the Ticket House, occupies the site. 
 
 Eminent Persons confined in the Tovjer. — Wallace, Mor- 
 timer. — John King of France. — Charles, Duke of Orleans, 
 father of Louis XII. The duke who was taken prisoner at the 
 battle of Agincourt, acquired a very great prohciency in our 
 language. A volume of his English poems, preserved in the 
 British Museum, contains the earliest known representation 
 of the Tower, and has often been engraved. — Queen Anna 
 Boleyn, executed 1536, by the hangman of Calais, on a scaf- 
 fold erected within the walls of tb.e Tower. — Queen Catherine 
 Howard, fourth wife of Henry VIIL, beheaded, 1.511-2, on a 
 scaflold erected within the walls of the Tower. Lady Roch- 
 ford was executed at the same time. — Sir Thomas More. — 
 Archbishop Cranmer. — Protector Somerset. — Lady Jane 
 Grey, beheaded on a scaffold erected within the walls of the 
 Tower. — Sir Thomas Wyatt, beheaded on Tower Hill. — 
 Devereux, Earl of Essex, beheaded on a scaffold erected 
 Avithin the walls of the Tower.— Sir Walter Raleigh. (He 
 was on three different occasions a prisoner in the Tower ; 
 once in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, on account of his
 
 90 XIII. — TOWER OF LONDON". 
 
 marringe, nnd twice in the reign of King James I. Here he 
 began his Historj- of the Woi-ld ; here he amused himself 
 with his chemical experiments ; and here his son, Carew 
 Ealeigh, was born.) — Lady Arabella Stuaii; and her husband, 
 William Seymour, afterwards Duke of Somerset. (Sej-mour 
 escaped from the Towei-.) — Countess of Somerset, (for Over- 
 bury's murder). — Sir John Eliot. (Here he Avrote The 
 Monarchy of Man; and here he died, in 1632.)— Earl of 
 Strafford. — Archbishop Laud. — Lucy Barlovv-, mother of the 
 Duke of Monmouth. (CromAvell discharged her from the 
 Tower in July, 1656.) — Sir "William Davenant. — Villiers, 
 second Duke of Buckingham. — Colonel Hutchinson, at the 
 Eestoration of Charles IL 
 
 " Plis chamber -was a room wlicre 'tis said the two j-onng princes, 
 King Kihvard tlie Fifth and his brother, were murdered in former days, 
 and the room that led to it was a dark great room, that had no window in 
 it, where the portcullis to one of the inward Tower gates was drawn up 
 and let down, under which there sat every nigiit a court of guard. There 
 is a tradition that in this room the Duke of Clarence was drowned in a 
 butt of Malmsey ; from which murder this room and that joining it, where 
 Mr. Hutchinson lay, was called the Bloody Tower,'" — Ilrs. Ilntchinscji. 
 
 (INIrs. Hutchinson Avas the daughter of Sir Allen Apsley, 
 Lieutenant of the Tower, was herself born in the Tower, 
 and, therefore, well acquainted Avith the traditions of the 
 building.) — Sir Harry Vane, the younger, — Duke of Buck- 
 ingham, — Earl of Shaftesbuiy. — Earl of Salisbuiy, temp. 
 Charles II. (When Lord Salisbury v/as offered his atten- 
 dants in the Tower, he only asked for his cook. The King 
 was very angry.) — William, Lord Russell. — Algernon Sydney. 
 — Seven Bishops, June Sth, 1688. — Lord Chancellor Jefferies, 
 1688.— The great Duke of Marlborough, 1692.— Sir Robei-t 
 Walpole, 1712. (Granville, Lord Lansdowne, the poet, was 
 afterwards confined in the same apartment, and has left 
 a copy of verses on the occasion.) — Harley, Earl of Oxford, 
 1715. — William Shippen, M,P. for Saltash (for saying, in the 
 House of Commons, of a speech from the thi'one, by George L, 
 '•'that the second paragraph of the King's speech seemed 
 rather to be calculated for the meridian of Germany than 
 Great Britain ; and that 'twas a great misfortune that the 
 King was a stranger to our language and constitution." He 
 is the '-downright Shippen" of Pope's poems). — Bishop 
 Atterbury, 1722. 
 
 " How pleasing Atterbuiy's softer hour, 
 How shone his soul nnconquered in the ToAver ! ''—Pope. 
 
 (At his last interview with Pope, Atterbury presented Pope
 
 XIIT. TOTN'ER OF LONDON. 91 
 
 with a Bible. "NMieu Atterbuiy was in the Tov/er, Lord 
 Cadogaii was asked, ''AMiat shall we do with the man]" 
 His reply was, '•' Ring him to the lions/') — Dr. Freind. ^Here 
 he wrote his History of Medicine.) — Earl of Derwentwater, 
 Earl of Kithsdale, Lord Ivenmuir. Derwentwater and 
 Kenmuir wei'e executed on Tower Hill. (Lord Xithsdale 
 escaped from the Tower, Feb. 2Sth, 1715, dressed in a 
 woman's cloak and hood, provided by his heroic wife, 
 which wei'e for some time after called •'•' Xith.sdales." The 
 history of the Earl of Xithsdale's escape, contrived and 
 effected by his conutess, with admirable coolness and in- 
 trepidity, is given by the countess hei-self, in an admirable 
 letter to her sister.^ — Lords Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and 
 Lovat, 1746. (The block on which Lord Lovat was beheaded 
 is j)reserved in Queen Elizabeth's Armouiy.) — John Wilkes, 
 1762. — Lord George Gordon, 17S0. — Sir Francis Burdett, 
 April 6th, 1810. — Arthur Thistlewood, 1S20, the last person 
 sent a prisoner to the Tower. 
 
 Persons murdered in. — Heuiy VI. — Duke of Clarence 
 drowned in a butt of Malmsey in a room in the Bowyer, 
 or rather, it is thought, Bloody, Tower. — Edward V. and 
 Richard, Duke of York : their supposed remains Cpreserved 
 in a cenotaph in "Westminster Abbey) were found in the 
 reign of Charles II., while digging the foundation for the 
 present stone stairs to the Chapel of the White Tower. — Sir 
 Thomas Overbury. (He was committed to the Tower, April 
 21st, 161-3, and 'found dead in the Tower on Sept. 14th 
 following. The manner of his poisoning is one of the most 
 interesting and my.sterious chapters in English Histor}-.) — 
 Arthur Capel, Earl of Essex. (He was found in the Tower 
 with his throat cut, July 13th, 1638.) 
 
 Persons horn in. — Carew Raleigh (Sir "Walter Raleigh's son). 
 — ^]Mrs. Hutchinson, the biographer of herlmsband. — Countess 
 of Bedford (daughter of the infamous Coimtess of Somerset^ 
 and mother of William, Lord Russell). 
 
 The fu-st stone of the Waterloo Barracks, a large building 
 of cjuestionable style intended to serve as a barrack and ar- 
 moury, loop-holed, and capable of defence, waslaid by the Duke 
 of Wellington, June 14th, 1S45, on the north side of the White 
 Tower, on the site of the Grand Storehouse, built_by William 
 III., and burned down in 1841. The principal lo.ss by that 
 conflagration was 280,000 stand of muskets and small anns, 
 ready for use, with a few others of antique make, with flint 
 locks. The Ordnance stoi-es in the Tower were estimated in 
 1849 at 640,023/. The Ordnance stores at home and abroad 
 are valued at 6,000,000/. The area of the Tower, within the
 
 92 XIII. TOWER HILL. 
 
 walls, is 12 acres and 5 poles; and the circuit outside of the 
 ditch is 1050 yards. The portcullis, hy the Bloody Tower, 
 has been described by the Duke of ^Velliugton as the only 
 one remainmg in England, in a state of repair, and capable 
 of being used. 
 
 The high ground to the X. W. of the Tower is called Tower 
 Hill. Till within the last 150 years stood a large scaflfold 
 and gallows of timber, for the execution of such traitors or 
 transgressors as were delivered out of the Tower, or othex'- 
 wise,. to the sheriffs of London for execution. 
 
 Executions on Tower Hill. — Bishop Fisher, 1535. — Sir 
 Thomas More, 1535. 
 
 '• Going up the scaffold, which was so wc.ik that it was ready to fall, he 
 said hurriedly to the Lieutenant, ' I pray you, Master Lieutenant, see me 
 safe up, and for my coming down let me shift for myself.' " — Boper's Life. 
 
 Cromwell, Earl of Esses, 1540. — Margaret, Countess of 
 Shrewsbury, mother of Cardinal Pole, 1541. — Earl of Sui-rey, 
 the jioet, 1547. — Thomas, Lord Seymour of Sudley, the 
 Lord Admiral, beheaded, 1549, by order of his brother the 
 Protector Somei'set. — The Protector Somerset, 1552. — Sir 
 Thomas Wyatt. — John Dudlej'', Earl of Warwick and 
 Northumberland, 1553. — Lord Guilford Dudley, (liusband 
 of Lady Jane Grey,) 1553-4.- — Sir Gervase Helwys, Lieutenant 
 of the Tower, (executed for his share in the murder of Sir 
 Thomas 0\crbury.)— Earl of Strafford, 1641.— Archbishop 
 Laud, 1644-5. — Sir Harry Vane, the younger, 1662. — Viscount 
 Stafford, 1680, beheaded on the perjured evidence of Titus 
 Gates, and others. — Algernon Sydney, 1683. — Dvike of Mon- 
 mouth, 1685. — Earl of Derwentwater and Lord Keumuir, 
 implicated in the rebelhon of 1715. — Lords Kilmarnock and 
 Balmerino, 1746. — Simon, Lord Lovat, 1747, was not only 
 the last person beheaded on Tovrer Hill, but the last person 
 beheaded in this country. 
 
 Llewellyn's head was placed on the walls of the Tower, 
 Lady Raleigh lodged on Tower Hill vrhile her husband was 
 a prisoner in the Tower. WiUiam Penn, the founder of 
 Pennsylvania, v,-as born (1644) on the E. side of Tower Hill, 
 within a court adjoining to London "Wall. At a public- 
 Tiouse on Tower Hill, kuown by the sign of the Bull, whither 
 he had withdrawn to avoid his credTtors, Otway, the poet, 
 died (it is said, of want) April 14th, 1685. At a cutler's 
 shop on Tower Hill, Felton bought the knife with which he 
 stabbed the first Duke of Buckingham of the Villiers family ; 
 it was a broad, sharp, hunting knife, and cost Is. The second 
 duke often I'epaired in disguise to the lodghig of a poor person, 
 ^•' about Tower Hill," who professed skill in horoscopes.
 
 XIIT. THE CHURCH IN THE TOWER. 93 
 
 The cliurcli of the Liberty of the Tower is Ccallcd St. Peter's 
 ad Yincula, and consists of a chancel, nave, and N. aisle ; the 
 pier columns are Early English ; but the whole structure 
 has been disfigured so often by successive alterations and 
 additions,' that little remains of the original building. 
 
 "I cannot refrain from expressing my disgust at tlie barbarous 
 stupidity -which has transformed this interesting little church into the 
 likeness of a meeting-house in a manufacturing town, . . . In tnith, 
 there is no sadder spot on earth than this little cemetery. Death is there 
 associated, not, as in Westminster Abbey and St. PauVs, with genius 
 and virtue, with public veneration and -with imperishable renown; not, 
 as in our humblest churches and churchyards, with everything that is 
 most endearing in social and domestic charities; but with whatever is 
 darkest in human nature and in human destiny, with the savage 
 triumph of implacable enemies,'"with the inconstancy, the ingratitude, 
 the cowardice of friends, with all tlie miseries of fallen greatness and of 
 blighted fame."— JJ//-. 3Iacaulaifs Ilistorij of England, i.628. 
 
 Eminent Persons interred in. — Queen Anne Boleyn (Tdc- 
 headed 1536). 
 
 " Her body was thrown into a common chest of elm-tree, that was 
 made to put arrows in, and was buried in the chapel within the Tower 
 before twelve o'clock." — Bisho}) Burnet. 
 
 Queen Katherine HoAvard (beheaded 1512).— Sir Thomas 
 More, 
 
 " His head was put upon London Bridge ; his body was buried in the 
 chapel of St. Peter in the Tower, in the belfry, or as some say, as one 
 cntereth into the vestrj^, near unto the body of the holy martyr Bishop 
 Fisher," — Cresacre Mores Life of Sir Thomas More, p, 288. 
 
 Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex O^eheaded 1540), Margaret,. 
 Countess of Shrewsbury (beheaded 1541). Thomas, Lord 
 Seymour of Sudley, the Lord Admiral (beheaded 1549), by 
 order of his brother, the Protector Somerset. The Protector 
 Somerset (beheaded 1552). John Dudley, Earl of "Warwick 
 and Duke of Northumberland (beheaded 1553). 
 
 " There Iveth before the High Altr.r, in St. Peter's Church, two Dukes 
 between two Queenes, to wit, the Duke of Somerset and the Duke of 
 Northumberland, between Queen Anne and Queen Katherine, all four 
 beheaded."— (ScoK-, Vy Howes, p. 615. 
 
 Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Lord Guilford Dudley 
 (beheaded 1553-4). Eobert Devereux, Earl of Essex (be- 
 headed 1600), Sir Thomas Overbury, poisoned in the Tower, 
 and buried, according to the register, Sept. ]5th, 1013. Sir 
 John Eliot died a prisoner in the Tower, Xov. 27th, 1632 ; 
 his son petitioned the King (Charles I.) that he would permit 
 his father's body to be conveyed to Cornwall for interment, 
 but the King's answer at the foot of the petition was, '" Let 
 Sir John Eliot's body be buried in the church of that pax'ish 
 where he died," Okey, the regicide. Duke of Monmouth
 
 94 * XIV. — CHURCHES. 
 
 (beheaded 16S5), Luried beneath the cominuuiou-table. 
 John Rotier (d. 1703), the eniiueut medalhst, and rival of 
 Simon. Lords Kilmarnock and Bahiierino (beheaded 1746). 
 Simon, Loi'd Lovat (heheaded 1747). Colonel Gurwood, 
 Editor of the Wellington dispatches (d. 1846). Observe. — 
 Altar-tomb, with effigies of Sir Richard Cholmondeley and 
 his wife ; he was Lieutenant of the Tower in the reign of 
 Henry VII. Monument, with kneeling figures, to Sir Richard 
 Blount, Lieutenant of the Tovrer (d. 1564), and his son and 
 successor, Sir Michael Blount. Monument in chancel to Sir 
 Allen Apsler, Lieutenant of the Tower (d. 1630), father of 
 Mrs. Lucy Hutchinson. Inscribed stone on floor of nave, 
 over the remains of Talbot Edwards (d. 1674), Keeper of 
 the Regalia when Blood stole the crown. Here, in the 
 lieutenancy of Pennington (the regicide Loi'd Mayor of 
 London), one Kem, vicar of Low 'Lejion, in Essex, preached 
 in a gown over a buff coat and scai'f Laud, who was a 
 prisoner in the Tower at the time, records the circumstance, 
 with becoming horror, in the History of his Troubles. 
 
 XIV.-CHURCHES. 
 
 Of the 9S parish churches within the walls of the City of 
 London, at the time of the Great Fire, 85 were bm-nt down, 
 and 13 tuibvirnt; 53 were rebviilt, and 35 united to other 
 parishes. " It is observed and is true in the late Fire of 
 London," says Pepys in his Diary, '•' that the fire burned just 
 as many parish chtux-hes as there were hours from the begin- 
 ning to the end of the Fire ; and next that there were just 
 as many churches left standing in the rest of the city that 
 -was not burned, being, I think, 13 in all of each." There is a 
 talk of removing many of the City churches to localities with 
 larger Sunday population. 
 
 On the census Sunday (of 1851), out of a population of 
 2,362,236, there were 504,914 attendants at religious worship, 
 comprising 276,885 members of the Church of England, 
 186,321 Protestant Dissenters, 36,334 Roman Catholics, and 
 5,374 of other bodies. — Times, January- 7, 1854. 
 
 The following is the Yearly Value of some of the Church 
 Livings in London : — 
 
 St. Botolph's, Bishopsgate . .") f £ 2290 
 
 St. Giles's, Cripplegate . . . , ^ i 2018 
 
 St. Olave's, Hart-street . . \ ^Xa^I^ \ 1891 
 St. Andrew's, Holboru . . . | "'""^.t. ^^^ 
 
 St. Catherine Coleman • • J [ 1019 
 
 St. Bartholomew the Less, the lowest ... 30
 
 XIV. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 95 
 
 Lambeth . . . .) before ("£2277 
 
 St. Marylebone . . . . V- the sepa- - 189S 
 
 St. George's, Hanover-square .) ration. ^ J55Q 
 
 St. James's, Westminster 1468 
 
 St. Martin's-iri-the-Fields 1258 
 
 All Souls', Laugham-place 1186 
 
 St. Maiy's, Islington 1155 
 
 St. Luke's, Chelsea 1003 
 
 The income of the Bishop of Loudou is above 15,000?. a 
 year, but the bishop's successor will have a fixed income of 
 10,000?. ayearnett. 
 
 In the following account of the London churches, those 
 which areparticularly worthy of attention ai"e alone mentioned. 
 
 WESTMINSTER ABBEY, or the Collegiate Church op 
 St. Peter's, Westjiinster (income in 1852, 30,657/. Is. Id.,), 
 originally a Benedictine monastery — the " minster west " of 
 St. Paul's, London — founded, by Sebert, king of the East 
 Saxons, circ. 616 ; enlarged by Kings Edgar and Edward the 
 Confessor ; and rebuilt nearly as we now see it by Henry 
 III., and his son Edward I. Here otu' Kings and Queens have 
 been crowned, from Edward the Confessor to Queen Victoria ; 
 and here very many of them are buried, some with and others 
 without monuments. 
 
 The style throughout (with the exception of Henry VII.'s 
 Chapel and the west towers) is Early English, very rich, and 
 mther late in the style. Henry VII.'s Chapel is late Perpen- 
 dicular, richly ornamented with panelling, &c. ; and the 
 western towers, designed by Wren, are in a debased style of 
 mixed Grecian and Gothic. 
 
 The Abbey is open to public inspection between* the hours 
 of 11 and 3 generally ; and also in the summer months be- 
 tween 4 and 6 in the afternoon. The Xave, Transepts, and 
 Cloisters are free. The charge for admission to the rest of 
 the Abbey (through which you are accompanied by a guide) 
 is 6d. each person. The entrance is at the south transept, 
 kno\\Ti as *•' Poets' Comer." The public are not admitted 
 to view the monuments on Good Frida}', Christmas Day, or 
 Fast Days, or during the hours of Divine Semdce, 'viz., 
 Sundays, at 10 a.m., and 3 rm., and daily at 7.45 a.jt., 10 a.m., 
 and 3 p.m. About 2000 people attend the Sunday services. 
 
 The usual plan observed in viewing the Abbey is to 
 examine Poets' Corner, and wait till a sufiicient party is 
 formed for a guide to accompany you through the chapels. 
 If you find a party formed, you will save time by joining it 
 at once. You can examine the open parts of the building 
 afterwards at your own convenience. Observe, hi the chapels, 
 <L-c., throufjh which you are taken by the fjuidc — Part of an
 
 96 XIV. — YfESTMINSTER ABBEY. 
 
 altar-decoration of the IStli or 14th century, 11 feet long bj- 
 3 feet high (under glass, and on your left as you enter). 
 
 " The woi'k is divided into tv/o similar portions ; in the centre is a 
 figure, which appears to be intended for Christ, holding the globe, and ia 
 the net of blessing; an angel with a palm bi-anch is on each side. The 
 single figure at the left hand of the whole decoration is St. Peter ; the 
 figure that should correspond on the right, and all the Scripture subjects 
 on that side, are gone. In the compartments to the left, between the 
 figure of St. Peter and the centre figures, portions of those subjects 
 remain: the fourth is destroj'ed. These single figures and subjects are 
 worthy of a good Italian artist of the fourteenth century. The remaining 
 decorations were splendid and costly; the small compai'tments in the- 
 architectural enrichments are filled with variously-coloured pieces of 
 glass, inlaid on tinfoil, and have still a brilliant effect. The compart- 
 ments not occupied l)y figures were adorned with a deep-blue glass 
 resembling lapis lazuli, with gold lines of foliage executed on it. The 
 smaller spaces and mouldings were enriched Avith cameos and gems, 
 some of which still remain. That the work was executed in England 
 there can be little doubt.'' — Eastlake on Oil Painting, p. 170. 
 
 The first chapel you are shown is called the '' Chapel of 
 St. Benedict," or the " Chapel of the Deans of the College," 
 Beveral of whom are buried here. The principal tombs are 
 those of Langham, Archbishop of Canterbury (d. 1376) ; the 
 Countess of Hertford, sister to the Lord High Admiral 
 iSTottingham, so famous for his share in the defeat of the 
 Spanish Armada (d. 1598) ; and Lionel Cranfield, Earl of 
 Middlesex, and Lord High Ti-easurer in the reign of James L 
 (d. 1645). 
 
 The second chapel is that of " St. Edmund," containing 20 
 monuments, of Avhich that on your right as^ you enter, to 
 William de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, halfbrother to 
 Henry III., and father of Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pem- 
 broke (d. 1296), is the first "in point of time and also the 
 most important; the effigy exhibits the earliest existing 
 instance in this coimtry of the use of enamelled metal for 
 monumental purposes. The other tombs and monuments of 
 importance in this chapel are — tomb of John of Eltham, 
 son of Edward II. ; tomb with miniature alabaster figures, 
 representing AVilliam of Windsor and Blanch de la Tour, 
 children of Edward III. ; monumental brass (the best in 
 the Abbey), representing Eleanora de Bohun, Duchess of 
 Gloucester, in her conventual dress, as a mm of Barking 
 Abbey (d. 1399); monvimental brass of Eobei-t de Waldeby, 
 Archbishop of York (d. 1397); effigy of Frances, Duchess of 
 Suffolk, grand-daughter of Henry VII., and mother of Lady 
 Jane Grey ; and alabaster statue of Elizabeth Russell, of the 
 Bedford family — foolishly shown for many years as the lady 
 who died by the prick of a needle. 
 
 The third chapel is that of ''St. Nicholas," containing the
 
 GROUND PLAN OF WESTMINSTER ABBEY
 
 98 XIV. — WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 
 
 monument of the wife of the Protectoi- Somerset ; the great 
 Lord Burghley's monument to his wife Mildred, and their 
 daughter Anne ; Sir Robert Cecil's monument to his wife ; 
 and a large altar-tomb in the area, to the father and mother 
 of Villiei-s, Duke of Buckingham, the Steenie of James I. 
 
 The fourth chapel is that of the " Virgin Mary," called 
 " Hemy VII.'s Chapel," and entered by a flight of twelve steps 
 beneath the Orator}- of Henry V. The entrance gates are of 
 oak, overlaid with brass, gilt, and wrought into various de- 
 vices — the portcullis exhibiting the descent of the founder 
 from the Beaufoi't family, and the crown and twisted roses 
 the union that took place, on Henry's mari'iage, of the White 
 Eose of York with the Red Rose of Lancaster. The chapel 
 consists of a central aisle, with five small chapels at the east 
 end, and two side aisles, north and south. The banners and 
 stalls appertain to the Klnights of the Most Honoui-able Mili- 
 tary- Order of the Bath, an order of merit next in rank in this 
 country to the Most Xoble Order of the Garter ; the knights 
 were formerly installed in this chapel ; and the Dean of 
 "Westminster is Dean of the Order. The principal monuments 
 in Henry VII.'s Chapel are — altar-tomb with effigies of 
 Hemy VII. and Queen (in the centre of the chapel), the 
 work of Peter Torrigiano, an Italian sculptor : — Lord Bacon 
 calls it " one of the stateliest and daintiest tombs in Europe :" 
 — the heads of the King and Queen were originally sur- 
 mounted with ci-owns ; the Perpendicular enclosure or 
 screen is of brass, and the work of an English artist. In 
 South Aisle. — Altar-tomb, with effigy (l^y Peter Torrigiano) of 
 Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of Henr^- VII. 
 Altar-tomb, with effigy of the mother of Lord Darnley, hus- 
 band of Mary, Queen of Scots. Tomb, with effigy (by Cor- 
 nelius Cure) of Mary, Queen of Scots, erected by James L, 
 who brought his mother's bodj- from Peterborough Cathedral, 
 and buried it here. The face is very beautiful, and is now 
 generally admitted to be the most genuine likeness of the 
 Queen. Monument to George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, 
 and his duchess ; — the duke was assassinated by Felton in 
 162S: his younger son, Francis, who was killed in the Civil 
 >yai's, and his eldest son, the second and profligate duke, are 
 buried with their father in the vault beneath. Statue of the 
 first wife of Sir Robert AValpole, erected by her son, Horace 
 Walpole, the gi'eat lettei'-writei". In North Aisle — Tomb, 
 with effigy (by Maximilian Coult) of Queen Elizabeth (the 
 lion-hearted Queen) ; her sister. Queen Mary, is buried in the 
 same gi'ave. Alabaster cradle, with effigy of Sophia, daughter 
 of James I., who died when only three days old : James I.
 
 XIV. WESTMIXSTER ABBEY. 99 
 
 and Auue of Denmark, Henry Prince of Wales, the Queen of 
 Bohemia, and Arabella Stuart are buried beneath. Monu- 
 ment to Lodowick Stuart, Duke of Richmond and Lennox, 
 and his duchess, of the time of James I. (La Belle Stuart is 
 buried beneath this monument). Monument to George 
 Monk, Duke of Albemarle, who restored King Charles II. 
 Sarcophagus of -white marble, containing certain bones acci- 
 dentally discovered (1674) in a wooden chest below the staii*s 
 which foraierly led to the chapel of the "White Tower, and 
 believed to be the remains of Edward Y. and his brother 
 Richard. Duke of York, murdered (14S3) by order of their 
 uncle, King Richard III. Monuments to Saville, Marquis of 
 Halifax, the statesman and wit (d. 1695): — to Montague, 
 Earl of Halifax, the patron of the men of genius of his 
 time (d. 1715), (here Addison and Craggs ai'e buried) — to 
 Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, the patron of Dryden, with 
 its inscription, '•' Dubius, sed non Improbus, Yixi." Recum- 
 bent figure, by Sir R. Westmacott, of the Duke of Mont- 
 pensier, brother to Louis Philippe, late King of the French. 
 The statues in the architecture of this chapel are commended 
 by Flaxman for "their natural simplicity, and grandeur of 
 character and drapery." Charles II., William and ^lary, and 
 Queen Anne ai-e buried in a vault at the east end of the south 
 aisle ; — George II. and Queen Caroline, — Frederick, Prince of 
 Wales, the father of George III., — and William, Duke of 
 Cumbei'land, the hero of Culloden, iu a vault in the central 
 aisle. The remains of George II. and his Queen lie mingled 
 together, a side having been taken by the King's own direction 
 from each of the coffins for this purpose : the two sides which 
 were withdrawn were seen standing against the wall when 
 the vault was, it is said, opened for the last time in 1837. 
 
 The fifth chapel is '•' St. Paul's." Observe. — Altar-tomb on 
 yoiu- right as you enter to Lodowick Robsart, Lord Bourchier, 
 standard-bearer to Henry Y. at the battle of Agincoui't. 
 Altar-tomb of Sir Giles Daubeny (Lord Chamberlain to 
 Henry YII.) and his lady. Stately monument against the 
 wall to Sir Thomas Bromley, Lord Chancellor of England in 
 the reign of Queen Elizabeth; he sat as Chancellor at the 
 trial of Mary, Queen of Scots, at Fotheringay. Monuments 
 to Yiscount Dorchester, and Francis, Lord Cottington, of the 
 time of Charles I. Colossal portrait-statue of James Watt, 
 the gi-eat engineer, by Sir Francis Chantrey — cost 6000Z. ; 
 the inscription by Lord Brougham. Archbishop L'sher is 
 bm-ied in this chapel : — his funeral was conducted with great 
 pomp by command of Cromwell, who bore half the expense 
 of it ; the other half fell verv heavily on his relations. 
 
 H 2
 
 100 XIV. — YN-ESTMINSTER ABBET. 
 
 The sixth chapel (the most interesting of all) occupies the 
 space at the back of the high altar of the Abbey : is called 
 the " Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor," or the " Chapel 
 of the Kings/' and is entered from the ambulatory by a tem- 
 porary staircase. The centre of this chapel is taken up by 
 tlie shrine of King Edward the Confessor, erected in the 
 reign of Henry III., and richly inlaid with mosaic work : of 
 the original Latin inscription, only a few letters remain. 
 Tlie wainscot addition at the top was erected in the reign of 
 Mary I., b}' Abbot Fekenham. Henry IV. was seized Avith 
 liis last illness while performing his devotions at this shrine. 
 Xo part of this chapel should be overlooked. Observe. — 
 Altar-tomb, with bronze effigy of Henry III. (the effigy of 
 the king very fine). Altar-tomb of Edward I., composed of 
 five large slabs of Purbeck marble, and carrying this appro- 
 priate inscription : ~ 
 
 "EDWARDV3 PRIJIVS SCOTORVM MALLEUS— HIC EST." 
 
 AMien the tomb was opened in 1774, the body of the King 
 was discovered almost eutii'e, with a crown of tin gilt upon 
 liis head, a sceptre of copper gilt in his right hand, and a 
 sceptre and dove of the same matei'ials in his left ; and in 
 this state he is still lying. Altar-tomb, with effigy of Eleanor, 
 Queen of Edward I. ; tlie figure of the Queen was the work 
 of Master William Torell, goldsmith, i.e., Torelli, an Italian, 
 and is much and deservedly admired for its simplicity and 
 beauty ; the iron work (recently restored) was the work of a 
 smith living at Leighton Buzzard, in Bedfordshire. Altar- 
 tomb, with effigy of Edward III. ; the sword and shield of 
 state, carried before the King in France, are placed by the 
 side of the tomb. Altar-tomb, with effigA' of Philippa, Queen 
 cf Edward III. Altar-tomb, with effigies of Richard II. and 
 his Queen. Altar-tomb and chantry of Henry Y., the hero 
 of Agincourt ; the head of the King was of solid silver, and 
 the iigure was plated with the same metal ; the head was 
 stolen at the Reformation ; the helmet, shield, and saddle of 
 the King are still to be seen on a bar above the turrets of the 
 chantry. Grey slab, formerly adorned with a rich brass 
 figure (a few nails are still to be seen), covei'ing the remains 
 of Thomas of Woodstock, youngest son of Edv\^ard III., mur- 
 dered by order of his nephew, Richard II. Small altar-tomb 
 of Margaret of York, infant daughter of Edward lY. Small 
 altar-tomb of Elizabeth Tudor, infant daughter of Henry YII. 
 Brass, much worn, representing John de Waltham, Bishop of 
 Salisbuiy, and Lord High Treasurer of England in the reign 
 of Richard II. : Richard loved him so much, that he
 
 XIV. — WEST:.II^-STER ABBEY. 101 
 
 oi'dered his body to be buried iu the Chapel of the Kings. 
 The two Coronation Chairs, still used at the coronations of 
 the Sovereigns of Great Britain — one containing the famous 
 stone of Scone on which the Scottish Kings were crowned, 
 and which Edward I. carried away with him, as an evidence 
 of his absolute conquest of Scotland. This stone is 26 inches 
 long, 16 inches wide, OJid 11 inches thick, and is fixed in the 
 bottom of the chair by ci-amps of iron ; it is nothing more 
 than a piece of reddish-grey sandstone squai-ed and smoothed; 
 — the more modern chair was made for the coronation of 
 Mary, Queen of William III. The screen dividing the chapel 
 from the Choir was erected in the reign of Henry VI. : 
 beneath the cornice runs a series of 1-4 sculptures in bas- 
 relief, representing the principal events, real and imaginary, iu 
 the hfe of Edward the Confessor ; the pavement of the chapel, 
 much worn, is contemporary with the shrine of the Confessor. 
 
 The seventh chapel is that of " St. Erasmus," and throiigh 
 it (it has nothing to detain you) you enter the cifjldh chapel, 
 dedicated to "' St. John the Baptist,'' containing the tombs of 
 several early Abbots of "Westminster; Abbot William de 
 Colchester (d. 1420); Abbot Mylluig (d. 1492); Abbot 
 Fascet (d. 1500). Observe. — The very large and stately 
 monument to Cary, Lord Hunsdon, first cousin and Cham- 
 berlain to Queen Elizabeth. Large altai'-tomb of Cecil, Earl 
 of Exeter (eldest son of the great Lord Burghley), and his 
 two wives ; the vacant space is said to have been intended 
 for the statue of his second countess, but she disdainfully 
 refused to lie on the left side. Monument to Colonel 
 Popham, one of Cromwell's officers at sea, and the only 
 monument to any of the Parliamentaiy party suffered to 
 remain iu the Abbey at the Restoration ; the inscription, 
 however, was turned to the wall ; his remains were removed 
 at the same time with those of Cromwell, Ireton, Bradshaw, 
 Blake, &c. 
 
 The wMi^/i chapel is that of "Abbot Islip," containing the 
 altar-tomb of Ishp himself (d. 1532), and the monument to 
 the great-nephew and eventually heir of Sir Christopher 
 Hatton, Queen Ehzabeth's Lord Chancellor. The Hatton 
 vault was purchased by William Pulteney, the celebrated 
 Earl of Bath, who is here interred, and whose monument, by 
 the side of General Wolfe's, is without the chapel, in the 
 aisle of the Abbey. The Wolfe monument was the work of 
 Wilton, and cost 3000Z. : the bas-relief (in lead, bronzed over) 
 represents the march of the British troops from the river 
 bank to the Heights of Abraham ; this portion of the monu- 
 ment is by Capizzoldi.
 
 102 XIV. — "WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 
 
 The E. aisle of the Noi'th Transept was formerly divided 
 by screens into the Chapels of St. John, St. Michael, and 
 St. Andrew. Hei-e are two of the finest monuments in the 
 Abbey. Observe. — Four knights kneeling, and supporting on 
 their shoulders a table, on which lie the several parts of a 
 complete suit of armour ; beneath is the recumbent figure of 
 Sir Francis Vei'e, the groat Low Country soldier of Queen 
 Elizabeth's reign. Monument by Roubiliac (one of the last 
 and best of his works) to Mr. and Mrs. Nightingale ; the 
 bottom of the monument is represented as throwing open 
 its marble doors, and a sheeted skeleton is seen launching 
 his dart at the lady, who has sunk affrighted into her hus- 
 band's arms. '•' The dying woman," says Allan Cunningham, 
 '• would do honour to any artist. Her right arm and 
 hand are considered by sculptors as the perfection of 
 fine workmanship. Life seems slowly receding from her 
 tapering fingers and quivering wrist." When Roubiliac 
 was erecting this monument, he was found one day by 
 Gay fere, the Abbey mason, standing with his arms folded, 
 and his looks fixed on one of the knightly figures which 
 support the canopy over the statue of Sir Francis Vere. 
 As Gayfere approached, the enthusiastic Frenchman laid his 
 hand on his arm, pointed to the figure, and said, in a whisper, 
 " Hush ! hush ! he vil speak presently." 
 
 The Choir, or cross of the transepts, affords the best point 
 of view for examining the architectvire of the Abbey. 
 Observe. — Tomb of Sebert, King of the East Saxons, erected 
 by the abbots and monks of Westminster, in 1308 ; tomb of 
 Edmund Crouchback, Earl of Lancaster, second son of 
 Edward III. ; tomb of his coimtess ; tomb of Aymer de 
 Valence, Earl of Pembroke (very fine — one of the best views 
 of it is from the N. aisle). 
 
 " The monuments of Aymer de Valence and Edmund Crouchback are 
 specimens of the magnificence of our sculptnre in the reign of the two 
 first Edwards. Tlie loftiness of the work, the number of arches and 
 pinnacles, the lightness of the spires, the richness and profusion of 
 foliage and crockets, the solemn repose of the principal statue, the 
 delicacy of thought in the group of angels bearing the soul, and the 
 tender sentiment of concern variously expressed in the relations ranged 
 in order round the basement, forcibly arrest the attention, and carry the 
 thoughts not only to other ages, but to other states of existence." — 
 Flaxman. 
 
 Tomb of Ann of Cleves, one of King Henry YIII.'s six wives. 
 The rich mosaic pavement is an excellent specimen of the 
 Opus Alexandrinum, and was placed here at the expense of 
 Henry 111., in the year 126S. The black and Avhite pavement 
 was laid at the expense of Dr. Busby, master of Westminster 
 School.
 
 XIV. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 103 
 
 Here the guide ceases to attend you, and you are left to 
 your ovm leisure and information. You now enter the 
 North Transept, where you will Observe. — The inscribed 
 stones covering the graves of the rival statesmen, Pitt 
 and Fox. 
 
 '' The mighty chiefs sleep side by side ; 
 Drop upon Fox's grave the tear, 
 'Twill trickle to his rival's bier." — Sir Walter Scott. 
 
 Gi-attan, Cannmg, and Castlereagh ; and the following monu- 
 ments — to the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, of the time 
 of Chai'les I. and II. Ptoubiliac's montiment to Su' Peter 
 Warren, containing his fine figui-e of Navigation ; Eysbrach's 
 monument to Admiral Veruon, who distinguished himself at 
 CcU-thagena ; Bacon's noble monument to the great Lord 
 Chatham, erected by the Iving and Pai'liament — cost 6000/. 
 
 " Bacon there 
 Gives more than female beauty to a stone. 
 And Chatham's eloquence to marble lips." 
 
 Coicper, The Task. 
 
 Nollekens's large monument to the three naval captains who 
 fell in Rodney's great victory of April 12th, 17S2, erected by 
 the King and Parhament — cost 4000Z. ; Flaxman's noble 
 portrait-statue of the great Lord Mansfield, with "Wisdom 
 on one side, Justice on the other, and behind the figure of 
 a youth, a criminal, by Wisdom dehvered up to Justice — 
 erected by a private person, who bequeathed 25001. for the 
 purpose ; statue of Sir W. Follett, by Behnes ; small monu- 
 ment, Avith bust, to Warren Hastings — erected by his widow ; 
 Sir R. Westmacott's Mrs. WaiTen and Child — one of the best 
 of Sir Richard's Avorks ; Chantrey's three portrait-statues of 
 Francis Horner, George Canning, and Sir John Malcolm ; and 
 Gibson's standing statue of Sir Robert Peel. The statue 
 without an inscription is meant for John Philip Kemble, 
 the actor. It was modelled by Flaxman, and executed by 
 Hinchcliffe after Flaxman's death. It is very poor. In the N. 
 aisle of the Choir (on your way to the Nave), Observe. — 
 Tablets to Henry Purcell (d. 1695), and Dr. Blow (d. 1708), 
 two of our greatest English musicians — the Purcell inscrip- 
 tion is attributed to Dryden ; portrait-statues of Sir Stamford 
 Raffles, by Chantrey ; and of Wilberforce, by S. Joseph. 
 
 Observe in Nave. — Small stone, in the middle of the N. 
 aisle (fronting Killigrew's monument), inscribed, '•' Rare 
 Ben Jonson." The poet is buried here standing on his feet, 
 and the inscription was done, as Aubrey relates, '"'at the 
 charge of Jack Young (afterwards knighted), who, walking
 
 104 XIV. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 
 
 here when the grave was covering, gave the fellow eighteen- 
 pence to cut it." "WTien the nave was re-laid, about fifteen 
 years ago, the true stone was taken away, and the present 
 uninteresting square placed in its stead. Tom Killigrev>', the 
 wit, is buried by the side of Jonson ; and his son, who fell 
 at the battle of Almanza, in 1707, has a monument imme- 
 diatel}' opposite. Monument, with inscriptions in Hebrev/, 
 Greek, Ethioi)ic, and English, to Sir Samuel Morland's wives ; 
 — Morland was secretaiy to Thurloe, Oliver Crornvrell's 
 secretary. Monument to Sir Palmes Fairborne, with a fine 
 epitaph in vei^e by Dryden. Monument to Sir William 
 Temple, the statesman and author, his wife, sister-in-law, and 
 child ; — this was erected pursuant to Temple's will. Monu- 
 ment to Sprat, the poet, and friend of Cowley. (Bishop 
 Atterbuiy is buried opposite this monument, in a vault 
 which he made for himself when Dean of "Westminster, " as 
 far," he says to Pope, '"'from kings and kfesars as the space 
 will admit of.") Monument, with bust, of Sidney, Eaid of 
 Godolphin, chief minister to Queen Anne " during the first 
 nine glorious years of her reign." Monument to Heneage 
 Twysden, who wrote the genealogy of the Bickerstaff family 
 in the Tatler, and fell at the battle of Blaregnies in 1709. 
 Mommient to Secretary Craggs, with fine epitaph in verse by 
 Pope. Sitting statue of Wordsworth, the poet, by Lough. 
 Monument to Congreve, the poet, erected at the expense 
 of Henrietta, Duchess of Marlborough, to whom, for reasons 
 not known or mentioned, he beciueathed a legacy of about 
 10,000?. 
 
 " When the younger Duchess exposed herself by placing a monument 
 and sillj' epitaph of her own composing and bad spelling to Congreve in 
 Westminster Abbey, her mother (quoting the v,-ords said, ' I knov,- not 
 ■what pleasure she might have had in his company, but I am sure it was 
 no honour.' " — Horace Walpole. 
 
 In front of Congreve's monument Mrs. Oldfield, the actress, 
 is buried, "in a very fine Biiissells lace head," says her 
 maid ; *•' a Holland shift with a tucker and double ruffles of 
 the same lace; a pair of new kid gloves, and her body 
 wrapped up in a winding-sheet." Hence the allusion of the 
 satiiist : — 
 
 " Odious ! in woollen ; 'twould a saint provoke ! 
 (Were the last words that poor Narcissa spoke) — 
 No, let a charming chintz and Bnissels lace 
 Wi-ap my cold limbs, and shade my lifeless face ; 
 One would not, sure, be frightful when one 's dead — 
 And — Betty — give this cheek a little red.'' — Pojk. 
 
 Under the organ-screen — Monuments to Sir Isaac Newton, 
 designed by Kent, and executed by Rysbrach — cost 500t.
 
 XIV. WESTMI>rSTER ABBEY. 105 
 
 and to Eaii Stanhope. Monument to Di*. Mead, the physician 
 (d. 1754). Three monuments by Eoubiliac, in three succes- 
 sive windows ; to Field-Marshal Wade, whose i^art in putting 
 down the Rebellion of 1745 is matter of history; to Major- 
 General Fleming, and Lieutenant-General Hargrave. The 
 absurd monument, by Nicholas Read, to Rear-Admiral Tyrrel 
 (d. 1766) : its common name is " The Pancake Monument." 
 Heaven is represented with clouds and cherubs, the depths 
 of the sea with rocks of coral and madrepore ; the admiral is 
 seen ascending into heaven, while Hibernia sits in the sea 
 with her attendants, and points to the spot where the 
 admiral's body was committed to the deep. Monument of 
 Major-General Stringer Lawrence, erected by the East India 
 Company, "in testimony of their gratitude for his eminent 
 services in the command of their forces on the coast of 
 Coromandel, from 1746 to 1756." Monument, by Flaxman, 
 to Captain Montague, who fell in Lord Howe's victoiy of 
 Jvme 1st. Monument to Major Andre, executed by the 
 Americans as a spy in the year 1780 : — the monument was 
 erected at the expense of George III., and the figure of 
 Washington on the bas-relief bas been renewed with a head 
 on three different occasions, " the wanton mischief of some 
 schoolboj''," says Charles Lamb, " fired, perhaps, with raw 
 notions of transatlantic freedom. The mischief was done,"' 
 he adds, — he is addressing Southey, — "about the time tliat 
 you were a scholar there. Do you know anything about the 
 unfortunate relic?" This sly allusion to the early political 
 principles of the gi'eat poet caused a temporaiy ces-^ation of 
 friendship with the essayist.— Sir R. Westmacott's monument 
 to Spencer Perceval, First Lord of the Treasury and Chan- 
 cellor of the Exchequer, shot by Bellingham in the lobby of 
 the House of Commons in 1812 ; cost 5250/. Monuments to 
 William Pitt, cost 6300Z. ; and C. J. Fox (there is no inscrip- 
 tion) ; both by Sir Richard Westmacott. Terminal busts to 
 Zachary Macaulay, and Sir James Mackintosh, father of the 
 historian. Monument by Baily, R.A., to Yassall Fox Lord 
 Holland. Observe. — In south aisle of Choir, recumbent 
 figure of William Thynn, Receiver of the Marches in the 
 reign of Henry VIII. Good bust, by Le Socur, of Lord 
 Chief Justice Richardson, in the reign of Charles I. Monu- 
 ment to Thomas Thynn, of Longleat, who was barbarously 
 murdered on Sunday the 12th of February, 1682 ; — he was 
 shot in his coach, and the bas-relief contains a representation 
 of the event. 
 
 '■' A Welsliraan bragging of his family, said his father's effigy was set 
 up in "Westminster Abbey : being asked whereabouts, he said, ' In the
 
 lOG XIV. — WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 
 
 sime monument with Squire Tbynn, for he was his coachman.' " — Joe 
 
 Milltr's Jtsts. 
 
 Monument to Dr. South, the great divine (d. 1716) ; he was 
 a prebendary of this church. Monument, by F. Bird (in the 
 worst taste), to Sir Cloudesley Shovel (d. 1707). Monument 
 to Dr. Busb}^ master of Westminster School (d. 1695). 
 * Honorary monument to Sir Godfrey Kneller, with fine 
 epitaph in verse by Pope. Honoi-ary monument, by T. Banks, 
 R.A., to Dr. Isaac Watts (d. 1741), who was buried in Bunhill- 
 fields. Bust, by Flaxman, of Pasquale de Paoli, the Corsican 
 chief (d. 1807). Monument to Dr. Burney, the Greek scholar; 
 the inscription by Dr. Parr. 
 
 In Poets Corner, occupying nearly a half of the South 
 Transept, and so called from the tombs and honorary monu- 
 ments of Chaucer, Spenser, Shakspeare, and several of our 
 greatest poets, Observe. — Tomb of Geoffrey Chaucer, the 
 father of Enghsh poetry (d. 1400) ; erected in 1555, by 
 Nicholas Brigham, a scholar of Oxford, and himself a poet ; 
 — Chaucer was originally buried in this spot, Brigham re- 
 moving his bones to a more honourable tomb (a committee 
 has been formed to restore this tomb). Monument to 
 Edmund Spenser, author of the Faerie Queene ; erected at 
 the expense of 'Anne Pembroke, Dorset and Montgomery,' 
 and renewed in 1778 at the instigation of Mason, the poet; 
 — Spenser died in King-street, Westminster, " from lack of 
 bread," and was buried here at the expense of Queen Eliza- 
 beth's Eax'l of Essex. Honorary * monument to Shakspeare ; 
 erected in the reign of George 11., from the designs of Kent ; 
 — when Pope was asked for an inscription, he wrote : — 
 
 " Thus Britons love me, and preserve my fame, 
 Free from a Barber's or a Benson's name." 
 
 We shall see the sting of this presently : Shakspeare stands 
 like a sentimental dandy. Monument to Michael Drayton, 
 a poet of Queen Ehzabeth's reign, erected by the same ' Anne 
 Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery ; ' the epitaph in verse by 
 Ben Jouson, and very fine. Tablet to Ben Jonson, erected 
 in the reign of George XL, a century after the poet's death. 
 Honorary bust of Milton, erected in 1737, at the expense of 
 Auditor "^Benson : "In the inscription," says Dr. Johnson, 
 '• Mr. Benson has bestowed more words upon himself than 
 upon Milton ; " so in the Dunciad — 
 
 " On poets' tombs see Benson's titles writ." 
 Honorary monument to Butler, author of Hudibras, erected 
 
 * The word honoran,-, as here used, is meant to imply that the person 
 to whom the monument is erected is buried elsewhere.
 
 XIV. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 107 
 
 in 1721, by John Barber, a printer, and Lord Mayor of 
 London. Grave of Sir William Davenant, with the" short 
 inscription, '•' O I'are Sir William Davenant." (May, the poet, 
 and historian of the Long Parliament, was originally buried 
 in this grave.) Monument to Cowley, erected at the expense 
 of the second and last Villiers, Duke of Buckingham ; the 
 epitaph by Sprat. Bust of Dryden (part of a larger monu- 
 ment, shamefully destroyed by Dean Buckland and Mr. 
 Blore), erected at the expense of Sheffield, Duke of Buck- 
 ingham. 
 
 " This Sheffield raised : the sacred dust below 
 Was Dryden once : the rest who does not know." — Pon:. 
 
 The bust by Scheemakers is very fine. Honoraiy monument 
 to Shadwell, the antagonist of Dryden, erected b}- his son. 
 Honorary monument to John Phihps, author of The Sj^leudid 
 Shilhng (d. 1708). 
 
 "When the inscription for the monument of Philips, in which he was 
 said to be iini Miltono secundus, was exhibited to Dr. Sprat, then Dean of 
 Westminster, he refused to admit it ; the name of Milton M-as in his 
 opinion too detestable to be read on the wall of a building dedicated to 
 devotion. Atterbuiy, who succeeded him, being author of the inscription, 
 permitted i<s reception. ' And such has been the change of public 
 opinion,' said Dr. Gregoiy, from whom I heard this account, ' that I have 
 seen erected in the church a bust of that man whose name I once knew 
 considered as a pollution of its walls." — Dr. Johnson. 
 
 Monument of Matthew Prioi-, erected by himself, as the last 
 piece of human vanity. 
 
 " As doctors give physic by way of prevention. 
 
 Mat, alive and in health, of his tombstone took care : 
 For delays are unsafe, and his pious intention 
 May haply be never fulfill'd by his heir. 
 " Then take Mat's word for it, the sculptor is paid : 
 That the iigure is fine, pray believe your own eye ; 
 Yet credit but lightly what more may be said. 
 For we flatter ourselves and teach marble to lie." — Prior. 
 
 The bust, by A. Coysevox, was a present to Prior from 
 Louis XIV., and the epitaph, written by Dr. Friend, famous 
 for long epitaphs: — 
 
 " Friend, for your epitaphs I griev'd, 
 Where still so much is said; 
 One half will never be believ'd. 
 The other never VGa.d."— Pope. 
 
 Monument to Nicholas Rowe, author of the tragedy of Jane 
 Shore, erected by his widow ; epitaph by Pope. Monument to 
 John Gay, author of The Beggar's Opera: the short and 
 irreverent epitaph, Life is a jest, ti-c, is his ov>-n composition ; 
 the verses beneath it are by Pope. Statvie of Addison, by 
 Sir R. AVestmacott, erected 1809. Honorary monument to 
 Thomson, author of The Seasons, erected 1762, from the
 
 108 XIV. — WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 
 
 proceeds of a subscription edition of his works. Honoraiy 
 tablet to Oliver Goldsmith, by Kollekens ; the Latin inscrip- 
 tion by Dr. Johnson, who, in reply to a request that he would 
 celebrate the fame of an author in the language in which he 
 wrote, observed, that he never would consent to disgrace the 
 walls of "Westminster Abbey with an English inscription. 
 Honorary monument to Gray, author of An Elegy in a 
 Country Churchyard (the verse by ]\Iasou, the monument by 
 Bacon, R.A.). Honorary monument to Mason, the poet, and 
 biographer of Gray (the inscription, it is said, by Bishop Hurd). 
 Honorary monument to Anstey, author of the Bath Guide. 
 Inscribed gravestone over Eichard Brinsley Sheiidan. Hono- 
 rary bust of Eobert Southey, by H. Weekes. Inscribed 
 gravestone over Thomas Campbell, author of the Pleasures of 
 Hope, and standing statue by W. C. Marshall, R.A. 
 
 In that part of the South Transept not included in Poets' 
 Corner, Observe. — Monument to Isaac Casaubon (1614), editor 
 of Pex'sius and Polybius. Monument to Camden, the great 
 English antiquary (d. 1623) ; the bust received the injury, 
 which it still exhibits, when the hearse and effigy of Essex, 
 the Parliamentary general, were destroyed in 1646, by some 
 of the Cavalier party, who lurked at night in the Abbey to 
 be revenged on the dead. White gravestone, in the centre 
 of transept, over the body of Old Parr, who died in 1635, at 
 the great age of 152, having lived in the reigns often princes, 
 viz., Edward IV., Edward V., Richard III., Henry VIE, 
 Henry VIII., Edward VL, Mary, Elizabeth, James I., and 
 Charles I. Gravestone over the body of Thomas Chiffinch, 
 closet-keeper to Charles 11. (d. 1666). Monument to M. St. 
 Evremont, a French epicurean wit, Avho fled to England to 
 escape a government arrest in his own country (d. 1703). 
 Bust of Doctor Isaac Barrow, the divine (d. 1677). Grave- 
 stone over the body of the second wife of Sir Richard Steele, 
 the " Prue " of his correspondence. Monument, by Roubiliac, 
 to John, Duke of Argyll and Greenwich (d. 1743) : the figm'e 
 of Eloquence, with her supplicating hand and earnest brow, is 
 \QVY masterly ; Canova was strixck with its beauty ; he said, 
 '• That is one of the noblest statues I have seen in England."' 
 Monument by Roubiliac (his last work) to Handel, the great 
 musician, a native of Halle, in Lower Saxony, and long a resident 
 inEugland (d. 1759). Honorary monument to Barton Booth, 
 the original Cato in Addison's play. Honorary monument 
 to Mrs. Pritchard, the actress, fixmous in the characters of 
 Lady Macbeth, Zara, and Mrs. Oakley (d. 1768). Inscribed 
 gravestones over the bodies of David Garrick and Samuel 
 Johnson. Monument to Da^dd Garrick, by H. Webber,
 
 XIV. — ^\\T:STilINSTER ABBEY. 109 
 
 erected at the expense of Albany "Wallis, the executor of 
 Garrick. 
 
 " Taking a turn the other day in the Abbey, I was struck with the 
 affected attitude of a figure -n-hich I do not remember to have seen 
 before, and which, upon examination, proved to be a whole-length of the 
 celebrated Mr. Gan-ick. Though I would not go so far with some good 
 Catholics abroad as to shut players altogether out of consecrated ground, 
 3'et I own I was not a little scandalised at the introduction of theatrical 
 airs and gestures into a place set apart to remind us of the saddest 
 realities. Going nearer, I found inscribed under this harlequin figure a 
 farrago of false thoughts and nonsense."— C/iarZss Lamb. 
 
 Inscribed gravestones over the remams of James Macpherson, 
 translator of Ossian ; and of WilHam Gilford, editor of Ben 
 Jonson and the Quarterly Review. The painted glass in the 
 Abbey will be found to deser\-e a cui'sory inspection ; the 
 rich rose-window in the ISTorth Transept is old ; the rose- 
 window in the South Transept the work (1S47) of Messrs. 
 Thomas "Ward and J. H. Xixon. The figm^es are nearly thi-ce 
 feet high, and the whole effect, for a modern window, most 
 excellent. The wax-work exhibition, or The Play of the 
 Dead Yolks, as the common people called it, was discontinued 
 in 1839. The exhibition originated in the old custom of 
 making a lively effigy in wax of the deceased — a part of the 
 funeral procession of every great person, and of leaving the 
 effigy over the grave as a kind of tempoi-ary monument. 
 
 You will nowleave the interior of the Abbey, for the purpose 
 of visiting the Cloisters, walking through St. Margaret's church- 
 yard, and entering Dean's-yard, where, on your left, you pass 
 the Jerasalem Chamber, in which King Henry lY. died. 
 
 " King Henry. Doth any name particular belong 
 Unto the lodging where I first did swoon ? 
 
 " WarvAd:. "Tis called Jemsalem, my noble lord. 
 
 "King Henry. Laud be to God !— even there my life must end. 
 It hath been prophesied to me many years, 
 I should not die but in Jerusalem ; 
 AVhich vainly I supposed the Holy Land : — 
 But bear me to that chamber ; there I '11 lie ; 
 In that Jerusalem shall Hany die." 
 
 ShaTispeare, Second Part of King Henry IV. 
 
 Observe. — In S. cloister effigies of several of the early abbots ; 
 large blue stone, uninscribed, marking the gi-ave it is said of 
 Long Meg of Westminster, a noted virago in the reign of Hemy 
 YIIL In E. cloister, honorary monument to Sir Edmimds- 
 bury Godfrey, miu'dered in the reign of Charles II. ; tablet 
 to the mother of Addison, the poet ; monument to Lieut.- 
 General Withers, with epitaph by Pope. In W. cloister, 
 monument to George Yertue, the antiquaiy and engraver ; 
 medallion monument to BonneU Thornton, editor of the
 
 110 XIV. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 
 
 Connoisseur — inscription by Joseph "Warton ; honorary- 
 monument, by T. Banks, E.A., to Woollett, the engraver; 
 tablet to Dr. Buchan. author of a work on Domestic Medicine 
 (d. 1805). In the E. ambulatorj-, "under a blue marble 
 stone, against the first pillar," Aphra Behn was buried, April 
 20th, 1689 : and under stones no longer carrying inscriptions, 
 are buried Henry Lawes, " one who called Milton friend ; " 
 Betterton, the great actor ; Tom Brown, the wit ; Mrs. 
 Bracegirdle, the beautiful actress; and Samuel Foote, the 
 famous comedian. A small wooden door, in the S. cloister, 
 leads to Ashburnham House, one of Inigo Jones's best I'emain- 
 mg works, and the richly-ornamented doorway in the E. 
 cloister to the Chapter-house p. 60 (an elegant octagon, sup- 
 ported by massive buttresses, with a Norman crypt), taken 
 from the Dean and Chapter as early as the Refoi-mation, and 
 made a repositoiy for public i^ecords. The entrance is ia 
 Poets' Corner. Obserre. — In 5 compartments on the E. wall, 
 and not unlike an altar-piece, "Christ surrounded by the 
 Christian Virtues," a mural decoration supposed to have been 
 executed about the middle of the 14th century. There are 
 later decorations, on the stoiy of St. John the Evangelist, 
 but poor and feeble in point of execution, compared to the 
 Christ surrounded by the Christian Virtues. The floor of 
 heraldic tiles, now boarded over, where visible, is extremely 
 fine. The roof stood till 1740 ; Wren, it is said, refused to 
 remove it. In the Chapel of the Pix attached to the Abbey 
 is a stone Altar, one of half-a-dozen, not more, that escaped 
 the Reformation and the Great Rebellion. For the Record 
 Curiosities in the Chapter-house, see p. 58. 
 
 The following eminent persons are buried in "Westminster 
 Abbey. (The names of those persons buried without monu- 
 ments or inscribed gravestones are printed in italics.) Kings 
 AND Queens. — King Sebert ; Edward the Confessor ; 
 Hemy III. ; Edward I. and Queen Eleanor ; Edward III. and 
 Queen Philippa ; Richard II. and his Queen ; Henry V. ; 
 Edward V. ; Henry VII. and his Queen ; Anne of Cleves, 
 Queen of Henry VIII. ; Edward VI. ; Mary I. ; Mary, 
 Queen of Scots ; Queen Elizabeth ; James I. and his Qmen; 
 Queen of Bohemia, daughter of James I. and mother of Prince 
 Rupert: Charles IL; William III. and Queen Mary; Queen 
 Anne ; George II. and Queen Caroline. Eminent Statesmen. 
 — Lord Chancellor Clarendon ; Savile, Lord Halifax ; Sir 
 William Temple; Craggs; Pulteney, Earl of Bath; the 
 great Lord Chatham; Pitt; Fox, Canning, and Castlereagh 
 Eminent Soldiers. — Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke ; 
 Sir Francis Vere ; Prince Rupert ; Monk, Duke of Albemarle;
 
 XIV. ST. Paul's CATHEDRAL. Ill 
 
 William, Dulce of Cumherland, the hero of Culloden ; Mai*shal 
 Wade. Eminent Seamen. — Admiral Dean; Sir W. S'pragg; 
 Montague, Earl of Sandicich; Sir Cloudesley Shovel. Eminent 
 Poets. — Chaucer, Spenser, Beaumont, Ben Jonson, Michael 
 Drayton, Sir Robert Ayton, Sir AV. Davenant, Cowley, 
 Denham, Jtoscommon, Drydeu, Prior, Congi-eve, Addison, 
 Rowe, Gay, Macphei-son, who gave "Ossian" to the public, 
 R. B. Sheridan, and Thomas Campbell. Eminent Actors 
 AND Actresses. — Betlerton, Mrs. Oldjield, Mrs. Bracegirdle, 
 Mrs. Cibher, the second Mrs. Barry, Henderson, and David 
 Garrick. Eminent Musicians. — Henry Lawes, Purcell, Dr. 
 Blow, Handel. Eminent Divines. — Dr. Barrow, Dr. South. 
 Eminent Antiquaries. — Camden, Spelman, Archbishop Usher. 
 Other Eminent Persons. — Mountjoy, Earl of Devonshire, of 
 the time of Queen Elizabeth; the unfortunate Arabella 
 Stuart; the mother of Henry VII. ; the mother of Lady 
 Jane Grey ; the mother of Lord Darnley ; Anne Hyde, 
 Duchess of York, the mother of Queen Mary and Queen 
 Anne ; the wife of the Protector Somerset ; the wife of the 
 great Lord Bui'ghley ,: the wife of Sir Robert Cecil ; the 
 Duke and Duchess of Newcastle (the poet and poetess); 
 the father and mother of Yilliei-s, Duke of Buckingham ; 
 Villiers, first Duke of Buckingham, and his two sons, the 
 profligate second duke, and Fi'ancis, killed when a boy in the 
 Civil AVai-s ; the Duchess of Richmond (La Belle Stuart); 
 the second Duke of Ormond, and Atterbury, Bishop of 
 Rochester, both of whom died in banishment ; Sheffield, Duke 
 of Buckingham ; Hakluyt, who collected the early voyages 
 which bear his name ; Sir Isaac Xe-n-ton ; Dr. Busby, the 
 schoolmaster ; Dr. Johnson, the moralist and lexicographer ; 
 Tom Kitligreio and M. St. Evremont, the English and French 
 epicurean wits ; A ubrey de Vere, the twentieth and last Earl 
 of Oxford of the house of Vere ; and old Parr, who died 
 (1635) at the great age of 152. "A Peerage or "Westminster 
 Abbey " was one of Xelson's rewards ; and when we reflect 
 on the many eminent persons buried within its walls, it is 
 indeed an honour. There is, however, some truth in the 
 dying observation of Sir Godfrey Kneller — " By God, I -nill 
 not be bm-ied in Westminster ! They do bury fools there." 
 
 ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, the most marked feature in 
 the architectux'e of London, and the noblest building in Great 
 Britain in the Classic style, stands on the site of a former 
 building to the same saint destroyed in the Fire of London. 
 The principal approach to it is by Ludgate-hill, but it is too 
 closely hemmed in by houses to be seen in detail to much
 
 112 XIV. — ST. Paul's cathedral. 
 
 advantage. The best general view of it is from the Thames, 
 or Blackfriars Biidge. This is the Cathedral church of the 
 See of Loudon. Income of the Dean and Chapter in 1852, 
 12,746 Z. 7s. 4icZ. Entrance at the X. door. Divine Service is 
 performed daily at 8 in the morning in the chapel; — at 
 ^ before 10, and in the afternoon at ^ past 3 iu the choir. 
 The doors are opened | of an hour before the beginning of 
 each service. Visitors are admitted to inspect the whole 
 building except during the time of Divine Service. 
 
 COST OF ADJIISSIOX. g^ ^ 
 
 Whispering, Stone, and Golden Galleries . ..06 
 
 Ball 16 
 
 Library, Great Bell, Geometrical Staircase and 
 
 Model Koom 6 
 
 Clock 2 
 
 Crypt and Nelson's Monument 6 
 
 3 2 
 
 General History. — The ground began to be cleared, and 
 
 the first stone was laid June 21st, 1675. Divine service 
 
 was performed for the first time Dec. 2nd, 1697, on the day 
 
 of thanksgiving for the peace of Ryswick, and the last stone 
 
 laid ■ 1710, 35 years after the first. It deserves to be 
 
 mentioned that the whole Cathedral Avas begun and com- 
 pleted under one architect, Sir Christopher AVren ; one 
 master mason, Mr. Thomas Strong; and while one bishop, 
 Dr. Henry Compton, presided over the diocese. The whole 
 cost, 7-47,954?. 25. 9c/., was paid for by a tax on eveiy chaldron 
 of coal brought into the port of London, and the Cathedral, 
 it is said, deserves to weai', as it does, a smoky coat in 
 consequence. Exterior. — The general form or ground-plan 
 is that of a Latin cross, with lateral projections at the "W. 
 end of the nave, in order to give width and importance to 
 the W. front. Length from E. to ^Y., 500 feet ; breadth of 
 the body of the church, 100 feet; campanile towers at the 
 AV. end, each 222 feet iu height; and the height of the Avliole 
 structure, from the pavement in the street to the top of the 
 cross, 404 feet. Immense as the building looks and is, it 
 covld actually stand within St. Peter's at Rome. The outer 
 dome is of wood, covered with lead, and does not support 
 the lantern on the top, which rests on a cone of brick raised 
 between the inner cupola and outer dome. The course of 
 balustrade at the top was forced on "Wren by the com- 
 missionei^ for the building. " I never designed a balustrade," 
 he says; '-'ladies think nothing well v/ithout an edging." 
 The sculpture on the entablature (the Conversion of St. Paul), 
 the statues on the pediment (St. Paul, with St. Peter and 
 St. James on either side), and the statue of Queen Anne in
 
 iNN^Ml 
 
 Statue of Queen Anne. 
 GROUND PLAN OF ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL
 
 114 XIV. — ST. paul'.s cathedral. 
 
 front of the building, Avith the four figures at the angles, are 
 all by F. Bird, The Phcenix over the S. door was the work 
 of Gibber. The iron railing, of more than 2500 palisades, was 
 cast at Lamberhurst, in Kent, at a cost of 11,202/. Os. 6d., 
 and encloses upwards of two acres of ground. Observe. — The 
 double portico at the "W. end ; the beautiful semicircular 
 porticos, X. and S. ; the use of two ordei'S of architecture 
 (Composite and Corinthian) ; and the general breadth and 
 hamiony of the whole building. The circular columns at 
 the base of the stone gallery are, it is said, too tall for 
 the length of the pilasters in the body of the building. 
 Interior. — The cupola, with the paintings upon it, is of 
 brick, two bricks thick, with etone bandings at every rise 
 of 5 feet, and a girdle of Portland stone at the base, con- 
 taining a double' chain of iron strongly linked together at 
 eveiy 10 feet, and weighing 95 cwt. 3 c[rs. 23 lb. The great 
 defect of the interior is its nakedness and want of ornament. 
 Another defect, the side oratories, was added to the original 
 design, by oi'der of the Duke of York (aftei'wards James II.), 
 wlio was willing to have them ready for the popish service. 
 The alteration naiTowed the building, and broke in veiy 
 much upon the beauty of the design. Sir Christopher shed 
 tears in speaking of the change ; but it was all in vain. The 
 Duke absolutely insisted upon their being inserted, and Wren 
 was obliged to comply. The paintings, 8 in number (by 
 Sir James Thornhill), represent the principal events in the 
 life of St. Paul. They are fast decaying, and were never 
 worth much. It was Wren's intention to have decorated the 
 cupola with the more dxu'able ornament of mosaic work, but 
 in this he was overruled. Observe. — In the choir the beautiful 
 foliage, carved by Grinling Gibbons, and over the entrance 
 to the choir the Inscription to Wren ^Si monmnentum 
 requiris, circumspice), put there by Mylne, architect of 
 Blackfriars Bridge. The organ (1694) Avas constmcted by 
 Bernard Schmydt, the successful candidate against Harris at 
 the Temple. The golden gallery was gilt at the expense 
 of the Earl of Lanesborough, the "sober Lanesborough dancing 
 with the gout" of Pope. Addison, in Spectator Xo. 50, makes 
 the Indian King suppose that St. Paul's was carved outof a rock. 
 The Monunients may be diA^ided into two classes : — monu- 
 ments to illustrious men, made additionally interesting as 
 fine works of art, and those only interesting from the illus- 
 trious persons they are desigoied to commemorate. Among 
 the works of art, Observe. — Statue of John Howard, the 
 philanthropist, by Bacon, E.A. (cost 1300 guineas, and was 
 the first n onument erected in St. Paul's); statue of Dr.
 
 XIV. — ST. Paul's cathedral. 115 
 
 Johnsou, by Bacon, R. A. ; statue of Sir Joshua Reynolds, by 
 Flaxman, R.A. ; kneeling figure of Bishop Heber, by 
 Chantrey, R.A.; monument to K'elson, by Flaxman, R.A., 
 (the hero's lost arm concealed by the union Jack of England); 
 monument to Lord Cornwallis, opposite, by Rossi, R.A., (the 
 Indian river gods much admii'ed); monument to Sir Ralph 
 Abercrombie, b}^ Sir R, Westmacott, R.A. Among the 
 monuments interesting from the pei'sons they commemorate, 
 Observe. — Monument to Sir John Moore, who fell at Coininna, 
 (Marshal Soult stood before this monument and wept) ; 
 statue of Lord Heathfield, the gallant defender of Gibraltar ; 
 monuments to Howe and Rodney, two of our great naval 
 heroes ; monument to Xelson's favourite, the brave and pious 
 Lord Collingwood ; statue of Eai*l St. Vincent, the hero of 
 the battle oft' Cape St. Vincent ; monuments to Picton and 
 Ponsonby, who fell at Waterloo; statues of Sir "WilUam 
 Jones, the Oriental scholar, Sir Astley Cooper, the surgeon, 
 Dr. Babington, the physician, &c. In the Crypt, — Observe- ■ 
 Grave of Sir Christopher Wren (d. 1723, aged 91). — Grave of 
 Lord Xelson (d. 1805). The sarcophagus, which contains 
 Nelson's coffin, was made at the expense of Cardinal Wolsey, 
 for the burial of Henry VIII. in the tomb-house at Windsor; 
 and the coffin, which contains the bodj" (made of part of the 
 mainmast of the ship L'Orient), was a present to Xelson after 
 the battle of the Nile, from his friend Ben Hallowell, captain 
 of the S«-iftsure. "' I send it," says Hallowell, " that when 
 you are tired of this life you may be buried in one of your 
 own trophies." Kelson appreciated the present, and for some 
 time had it placed upright, with the lid on, against the bulk- 
 head of his cabin, behind the chair on which he sat at 
 dinner. — Grave of Loi'd Collingwood (d. 1810), commander 
 of the larboard division at the battle of Trafalgar. — Grave of 
 the great Duke of Wellington, died 1852 (the momxment to 
 the Duke has been intrusted to Gibson, R.A.) — Graves of 
 the following celebrated English painters : — Sir Joshua 
 Revnolds (d. 1792); Sir Thomas Lawrence (d. 1830); James 
 Bany (d. 1806): John Opie (d. 1807); Benjamin West 
 (d. 1820); Henry Fuseh (d. 1825); J.M.W. Turner (d. 1851). 
 — Graves of eminent engineers : — Robert Mylne, who built 
 Blackfriai-s Bridge (d. 1811) ; John Rennie, who built Waterloo 
 Bi'idge (d. 1821). Monuments from Old St. PauVs, preserved 
 in the crypt of the present building. — Dean Colet, founder of 
 St. Paul's School ; Sir Nicholas Bacon, father of the great Lord 
 Bacon ; Sir Christopher Hatton, Queen Elizabeth's Lord 
 Chancellor : Dr. Donne, the poet, in his shroud, by Nicholas 
 Stone, and described by Izaak Walton in his Life of Donne.
 
 116 XIV. — ST. Paul's cathedral. 
 
 Ascent. — The ascent to the ball is by 616 steps, of wliich 
 the first 260 are easy, and well-lighted. Here the Whispering 
 Gallery -will give you breath ; but the rest of the ascent is a 
 dirty and somewhat fatiguing task. ClocJc Room. — In the 
 south-western tower is the clock, and the great bell on which 
 it strikes. The length of the minute-hand of the clock is 8 
 feet, and its weight 75 lb. ; the length of the hour-hand is 5 
 feet 5 inches, and its weight 44 lb. The diameter of the 
 bell is about 10 feet, and its weight is 11474 lbs., the hammer 
 weighing 145 lbs., and the clapper 180 lbs. It is inscribed, 
 '■'Richard Phelps made me, 1716," and is never used except 
 for the striking of the hour, and for tolling at the deaths 
 and funerals of any of the royal family, the Bishops of 
 London, the Deans of St. Paul's, and, should he die in 
 his mayoralty, the Lord Mayor. The larger part of the 
 metal of which it is made formed " Great Tom of West- 
 minster," once in the Clock Tower at Westminster. The 
 Lihrary is not very valuable. TJie Model Room contains, in a 
 shamefully du'ty mutilated state. Wren's first and favouriie 
 plan for the rebuilding of the Cathedral. This is quite a 
 study, and additionally interesting, as it shows how well 
 Wren was aware of the difficulties he had to contend with in 
 his art, and how completely he had foreseen the minor ob- 
 jections raised to the minute details of particular parts of the 
 present building. The dome, however, of the present 
 Cathedral is surely finer that any part of the rejected model \ 
 The Whispering Gallery is so called, because the slightest 
 whisper is transmitted from one side of the gallery to the 
 other Avith great rapidity and distinctness. The Stone Gallery 
 is an outer gallery, and affords a fine view of London on a 
 clear day. The Inner Golden Gallery is at the aj^ex of the 
 cupola and base of the lantern. Tlie Outer Golden Gcdlery is 
 at the apex of the dome. Here you may have a noble view 
 of London if you will ascend early in the morning, and on a 
 clear day. The Ball and Cross stand on a cone between the 
 cupola and dome. The constraction is very interesting, and 
 will well repay attention. The ball is in diameter 6 feet 2 inches, 
 and will contain S persons, " without," it is said, '•' particular 
 inconvenience." This, however, may well be doubted. The 
 weight of the ball is stated to be 5600 lb., and that of the cross 
 (to which there is no entrance) 3360 lb. The last public pro- 
 cession to St. Paul's (the funeral of the Duke of Wellington 
 in 1852 excepted) was on a Thursday, July 7th, 1814, when the 
 Duke of Wellington carried the sword of state before the Prince 
 Eegent, on the day of general thanks.giving for the peace. 
 
 Haydn said that the most powerful effect he ever felt from
 
 XIV. — ST. BARTKOLOMEV\- THE GREAT ST. SAVIOUR. 117 
 
 music was from the singing of tlie cliarity children in St. 
 Paul's. Endeavour to attend at one of the festivals -when 
 the charity children attend. The festival is held on the first 
 Thursday in June. 
 
 "What is called St. PauVs Churchyard is an irregular 
 circle of houses enclosing St. Paul's Cathedral and burial- 
 ground, of which the side towards the Thames is commonly 
 called tlie low, and the side towards Paternoster-row the 
 string. The statue of Queen Anne, before the "W. front of 
 the church, was the work of Fi-ancis Bird, a poor sculptor, 
 whose best work is his monument to Dr. Busby, in "West- 
 minster Abbey, Mr. Xewbery's shop at the corner of St. Paul's 
 Church-yard is occupied by Messrs. Grant and Griffiths, who 
 deal, like their predecessor, in books for children. 
 
 St. BARTHOLOMEW the GREAT, West Smithfield, in 
 the ward of Farringdon Without, was the choir and transept 
 of the church of the Prioiy of St. Bartholomew, founded 
 in the reign of Henry I. (cue. 1102), by Rahere, "a pleasant- 
 witted gentleman, and therefore in liis time called the King's 
 minstrel." This unquestionably is one .of the most inter- 
 esting of the old London churches. There is much good 
 Norman work about it, and its entrance gate from Smithfield is 
 tui excellent specimen of Early English with the toothed orna- 
 ment in its mouldings. Parts, however, are of the Pei'p. 
 period, and the rebus of Prior Bolton, who died in 1532 (a 
 holt through a tun), fixes the date Avhen the alterations were 
 made. The roof is of timbei'. At the W. end are parts of 
 the transepts and nave, in a later style of architecture, and 
 w^orth examination. The clerestory is Early English. On 
 the north side of the altar is the canopied tomb, with effigy, 
 of Rahere, the first Prior of his foundation. It is of a much 
 later date than his decease, and is a fine specimen of the 
 Perp. period. Over against the founder's tomb is the 
 spacious monument to Sir Walter Mildmay, Under-Chan- 
 cellor of the Exchequer in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and 
 founder of Emmanuel College, Cambridge (d. 1589). The 
 other monuments are of very little importance, unless we 
 except the bust (near Mildmay 's monument) of James Rivers 
 (d. 1041), probably the work of Hubert Le Soeur, who lived in 
 Bartholomew-close, hard by. The parish register records the 
 baptism (Xov. 2Sth, 1697) of William Hogarth, the paintei'. 
 
 St. SAVIOUR, Southwaek, was the church of the Prioiy 
 of St. Mary Overy, and was first erected into a parish church 
 by Heniy VIII. in 1540. After YN'estminster Abbey, St. 
 Saviour's, Southwark, contains the finest specimens of Early
 
 118 XIV. — ST. SAVIOUR. 
 
 English in London. Nothing, however, remains of the old 
 church but the choir and the Lady chapel. The nave was 
 taken down about twentj^ years ago, and the present un- 
 sightly structure erected in its stead. The altar-screen in the 
 choir (much like that at Winchester) was erected at the expense 
 of Fox, Bishop of Winchester (d. 1528). In the string-coiirse 
 is Fox's favourite device, the pelican. The choir was restored 
 in 1822, and the Lady chapel in 1832. In the reign of Mary I. 
 the Lady chapel of St. Sa^dour's was used by Gardiner, Bishop 
 of Winchester (d. 1555), as a consistorial court. Monuments. 
 - —Effigy of knight cross-legged, in north aisle of choir. To 
 John Gower, the poet (d. 1402) ; a Perp. monument, originally 
 erected on the N". side of the church, in the chapel of St. 
 John, where Gower founded a chantry. The monument was 
 removed to its present site, and repaired and coloured iu 
 1832, at the expense of Gower, first Duke of Sutherland. 
 
 " He [Gower] lieth under a tomb of stone, M-ith his image also of stone 
 over liim : the hair of his head, aiibni-n, long to his shonlders but curling 
 up, and a small forked beard ; on his head a chaplet like a coronet cf 
 four roses; a habit of ptirple, damasked down to his feet; a collar of 
 esses gold about his neck ; under his head the likeness of three books 
 which he compiled." — Stow, p. 152. 
 
 Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Winchester (d. 1626); a black 
 and white max'ble monument in the Lady chapel, with his 
 effigy at full-length. When St. John's chapel was taken 
 down, his leaden coffin was found, with no other inscription 
 than L.A. (the initials of his name). John Trehearne, gen- 
 tleman porter to James I. ; half-length of himself and wife 
 (upright). John Bingham, saddler to Queen Elizabeth and 
 James I. (d. 1625). Alderman Humble. Lockyer, the 
 famous empiric in Charles II. 's reign (d. 1672) ; a rueful 
 full-length figure in IST. transept. Eniinent Persons hiricd 
 in, and graves unmarked. — Sir Edward Dyer, Sir Pljilip 
 Sydney's friend ; he lived and died (1607) in Winchester 
 House, adjoining. Edmund Shakspeare, "player" (the poet's 
 youngest brother), buried in the church, 1607. Lawrence 
 Fletcher, one of the leading shareholders in the Globe and 
 Blackfriars Theatres, and Shakspeare's " fellow ; " buried in 
 the church, 1608. Philip Henslowe, the manager, so well 
 known by his curious Account Book or Diary ; buried in the 
 chancel, 1615-16. John Fletcher (Beaumont's associate), 
 buried in the church, 1625, Philip Massinger (the dramatic 
 poet), buried in the churchyard, March ISth, 1638-9. The 
 houses in Doddington-giX)ve, Kennington, are bviilt on the 
 three-feet surface of earth removed from the "Cross-Bones 
 Burial Ground " of St. Saviour's, Southwark.
 
 XIV. TUE TEMPLE CIIUECH. 110 
 
 The TEMPLE CHURCH, a little south of Temple Bar, 
 was the church of the Kuights Templar, aud is divided into 
 two parts, the Round Church aud the Choir. The Round 
 Church (transition Xorman work) was biiilt in the year 1185, 
 as an inscription in Saxon characters, foi-merlv on the stone- 
 work over the little door next the cloister, recorded, and 
 dedicated by Heraclius, Patriarch of Jemsalem ; the Choir 
 (pure Early English) was finished in 1210. The restorations 
 and alterations, made 1839-42, at a cost of 70,000^., amount- 
 ing nearly to the re-constiniction of the Choii", are in correct 
 twelfth aud thirteenth century taste. The monimients to 
 several distinguished men, architecturally out of place, were 
 removed from the ai^ades and compartments in which they 
 were fii-st erected, and are now placed in tlie Triforium. OtF 
 the cork-screw staii-s leading to the gallery is a so-called 
 Penitential Cell. Observe. — Entrance doorway (veiy fine) : 
 two groups of monumental effigies, in Roimd Church, of 
 Knights Templar, cross-legged (names unknown, at least 
 very uncertain) ; the figiu-e between the two columns on the 
 S.E. having a foliage-ornament about the head, and the feet 
 resting upon a lion, represents, it is said, William Marehall, 
 Earl of Pembroke (d. 1119), Earl Marshal and Protector of 
 England duiing the minority of Heniy III. ; monument of 
 white marble, left of altar, to the learned Selden (d. 1654; 
 ho is buried beneath) ; and in the Triforium (ascended by a 
 nari-ow stau'case), the tombs of Plowden, the jurist ; Martin, 
 to whom Ben Jonson dedicates his Poetaster; Howell, the 
 letter- writer (d. 1666); Edmund Gibbon (ancestor of the 
 historian, and referred to by him in his Autobiography). In 
 the burial-ground east of the choir, lies Oliver Goldsmith. 
 The place is undistmguished ; but a tablet recently erected 
 in a recess on the north side of the Choir commemorates the 
 circumstance. The Roimd of this church was used as a 
 I)lace where lawyers received their clients, each occupying 
 his particular post, like a merchant upon 'Change. The 
 preacher at the Temple is called ^Master of the Temple, and 
 was once an office of greater dignity and reputation than it 
 is now. The learned and judicious Hooker, author of the 
 Ecclesiastical Polity, was for six yeai's Master of the Temple 
 ■ — " a place," says Izaak Walton, " which he accepted rather 
 than desii^ed." Travei-s, a disciple of Cartwright, the Xon- 
 conformist, was then lectiirer ; and Hooker, it was said, 
 preached Canterbuiy in the forenoon, and Travers Geneva in 
 the afternoon. The Benchers were divided ; and Travers, 
 being first silenced by the Archbishop, Hooker resigned, and 
 in his quiet pai'sonage of Boscombe renevred the contest in
 
 120 xiy. — ST. Helen's, bishopsgate street. 
 
 print, in ])is Ecclesiastical Polity. In the S. W, angle of the 
 choir is a bust of Hooker by Mr. Gatley, erected 1851, at the 
 expense of the benchers. In this church Archbishop 
 Usher preached the funeral sermon of the learned Selden. 
 The organ was made by Father Schmydt, or Smith, in 
 honourable competition with a builder of the name of 
 Harris. Blow and Purcell, then in their prime, performed 
 on Father Smith's organ on appointed days ; and till Harris's 
 was heard, every one believed that Smith's must be chosen. 
 Harris emploj^ed Baptiste Draghi, organist to Queen Cathe- 
 rine, "to touch his organ," which brought it into favour; 
 and thus the two continued vieiug with each other for near a 
 twelvemonth. The decision at length was left to the noto- 
 rious Judge JefFeries, who decided in favour of Father Smith. 
 Smith excelled in the diapason, or foundation stops ; Harris 
 principally in the reed stops. The choi-al services on a 
 Sunday are well performed, and well attended. The Round 
 of the church is open to all, but the Choir is reserved for the 
 Benchers and students. Strangers are admitted by the 
 introduction of a member of either Temple. The keys of the 
 church are with the porter, at the to^D of Inner Temple-lane. 
 
 ST. HELEN'S, Bishopsgate Street, on the E. side of 
 Bishopsgate-street Within, near its j unction with Gracechirrch- 
 street, the church of the Priory of the Nuns of St. Helen's, 
 founded (circ. 1216) by '-'William, the son of William the 
 Goldsmith," othen^dse William Basmg, Dean of St. Paril's. 
 The interior is divided into two aisles, of nearly equal pro- 
 130i*tions, ^viih a small transept abutting from the main 
 building. There is little in the architecture to attract atten- 
 tion, in geuei'al design or even in detail. The windows are 
 irregular — the roof poor and heavy, but the monuments are 
 old, numerous, and interesting. Observe. — Sir John Crosby, 
 Alderman (d. 1475), and Ann, his wife, the founder of 
 Crosby Hall ; an altar-tomb, with two recumbent figures, the 
 male figure \Yith. his alderman's mantle over his plate armour. 
 — Sir Thomas Gresham (d. 157&).. the founder of the Royal 
 Exchange ; an altar -tomb, with this short inscription on the 
 surmounting slab : — " Sir Thomas Gresham, Knight, buried 
 Dec. 15th, 1579." This monument was never comj^leted, nor 
 %vas there any insciiption on the slab when Pennant drew up 
 his account in 1790. Stow tells us that it was Gresham"s 
 intention to have built a new steeple to the church "in re- 
 compense of gi'ound filled up with his monument." — John 
 Leventhorp (d. 1510), in armour: a brass. — Sir William 
 Pickering, and his son, (d. 1542, d. 1574); a recumbent figm-e
 
 XIV. — ST. PAXCRAS-IX-THE-FIELDS. 121 
 
 of the father in armour, beneath an enriched marble canopy. 
 • — Su' Andrew Judd, Lord Mayor (d. 1558); a monument 
 against the wall, with male and female figures kneeling at a 
 desk. This Sir Andrew Judd (who is here represented in 
 armour) was founder of the Free Grammar School at Tun- 
 bridge, and of the Almshouses in the neighbourhood which 
 bear his name. The inscription is curious ; but the name is 
 a recent addition. — Sir Julius Ca3sar (d. 1636), Master of the 
 Rolls, and Under-Chancellor of the Exchequer, in the reign 
 of James I. : the same Sir Julius Csesar of whom Lord Claren- 
 don tells the amusing story, " Remember Caesar." 
 
 " His epitaph is cut on a black slab, in front of a piece of parcliment, 
 with a seal appendant, by -which he gives his bond to Heaven to resign 
 his life willingly whenever it should please God to call him. ' In cnjus 
 rei testimonium manum meam et sigillum apposui.' " — Pennant. 
 
 This monument was the work of Nicholas Stone, and cost 
 110^. — Sir John Spencer, Lord Mayor in 1594, from whom 
 the Marquis of Northampton derives the Spencer j)ortion of 
 his name, Spencer-Compton. Sir John Spencer bought 
 Crosby House, and kept his mayoralty in it in 1594. — Francis 
 Bancroft, the founder of the Almshouses which bear his 
 name. 
 
 " He is embalmed in a chest made with a lid, having a pair of hinges 
 without any fastening, and a piece of square glass on the lid just over 
 his face. It is a very plain monument, almost square, and has a door 
 for the sexton, on certain occasions, to go in and clear it from dust and 
 cobwebs.'" — KoorthoucKs Hist, of Lond., ito, 1773, p. 557. 
 
 ST. PAXCRAS- IN -THE- FIELDS, (old church) in the 
 northern part of London, is an interesting little church 
 recently enlarged by Mr. A. D, Gough. The burial-ground, 
 of less than 4 acres, has been used as a place of sepulture for 
 at least six centuries, and contains the remains of at least 
 20 generations. The moniiments deseiwe examination. 
 Observe. — Against S. wall of chancel a tablet, sunuounted by 
 a palette and pencils, to Samuel Cooper, the mmiature painter 
 to whom Cromwell sat so often (d. 1672) : the ai^ms are those 
 of Sir Edward Tumei', Speaker of the House of Commons in 
 the reign of Charles II., at whose expense it is probable the 
 monument was erected. In the churchyard, near the church 
 door, and on your right as you enter, is a headstone to 
 William AVoollett, the engraver (d. 1785), and his -widow 
 (d. 1819). At the further end of the chixrchyard, on the 
 jST. side, is an altar-tomb to William Godwin, author of Caleb 
 Williams (d. 1836), and his two wives; Mary Wolstonecraft 
 Godwin, author of A Vindication of the Rights of Woman, 
 the mother of Mrs. Shelley (d. 1797) ; and Mary Jane
 
 122 XIV. SAVOY CnURCH. 
 
 (d. 1841). Xear the sextou's house is a headstone to John 
 Walker, author of the Pronouncmg Dictionary of the EngHsh 
 Language (d. ISOTj. The several footways in tliis crowded 
 churchyard ax'e laid with fragments of broken tombstones, 
 some perhaps of interest ; for here were buried, as the 
 register records : — Abraham "Woodhead (d. 1 678), reputed 
 by some to have been the author of The Whole Duty of 
 Man. Wood gives a long account of him, and adds, '"'that he 
 was buried in the churchyard of St. Pancras, about 22 paces 
 from the chancel, on the S. side. Afterwards was a raised 
 altar-monument, built of brick, covered with a thick plank 
 of blue marble, put over his gi'ave." — Jeremy Collier (d. 1726), 
 the writer against the immorality of the stage in the time of 
 Dryden. — Xed Ward (d. 1731), author of the London Spy. 
 His hearse was attended by a single mourning coach, con- 
 taining only his ^^-ife and daughter, as he had directed it 
 should be in his poetical will, written six years before he 
 died. — Lewis Theobald (d. 1741), the hero of the early 
 editions of the Dunciad, and the editor of Shakspeare. In 
 this church (Feb. 13th, 1718-19), Jonathan AVild was married 
 to his third wife. 
 
 ST. MARY LE SAVOY lies between the River and the 
 Strand, and was the chapel of the Hospital of St. John the 
 Baptist, in the Savoy, a palace so called, built in 1245 by 
 Peter, Earl of Savoy and Richmond, uncle unto Eleanor, wife 
 to King Heniy III. It is a Perp. chapel, late and plain, with 
 the exception of the ceiling, which is very rich and coloured, 
 and is the only remains of the old palace. The E. end has 
 been ornamented with tabernacle work, of which one niche 
 remains ; but the greater part has been cut away to make 
 places for modern monuments. It is now a precinct or 
 parish church, and called (but improperly) St. Mary-le-Savoy. 
 The altar window, recently glazed at the expense of the con- 
 gregation, contains the figure of St. John the Baptist. 
 Observe. — Recumbent figau-e (size of life) of the Countess 
 Dowager of Xottiugham (d. 1681); but this monviment, it is 
 thought, is improperly named. Tablet to M.y^. Anne Killi- 
 grew (d. 1685); Dryden wrote a poem on her death. Brass, 
 on floor, about 3 feet S. of the stove in the centre of the 
 chapel, marking the gi'ave of Gawain Douglas, Bishop of 
 Diinkeld (d. 1522), the translator of Yirgil. Monument by 
 M. L. Watson, erected 1846, to Dr. Cameron, the last pei-son 
 executed on account of the rebellion of 1745. Tablet, erected 
 by his ■\\ddow, to Richard Lander, the African traveller (d. 
 1834). Eminent Persons interred here without monuments. —
 
 XIV. — ST, Paul's, covent garden. 123 
 
 George, third Eai-1 of Cumberland, father of Lad}^ Anne 
 Chflford, died in the Duchy House in 1605; bowels alone 
 buried here. Geoi'ge Wither, the poet (d. 1667), "between 
 the E. door and S. end of the church." Lewis de Dui-as, 
 Earl of Fevershani (d, 1709); he commanded King James II.'s 
 troops at the battle of Sedgemoor. 
 
 The meetings at the Eestoration of Charles 11. of the com- 
 missioners for the revision of the Liturgy took place in the 
 Savoy; twelve bishops appearing for the Estabhshed 
 Church; and Calaniy, Baxter, Reynolds, and others, for the 
 Presbyterians. This was called •' The Savoy Conference" 
 and under that name is matter of English history. Fuller, 
 author of The Worthies, Avas at this time lecturer at the 
 Savoy, and Cowley, the poet, a candidate at Court for the 
 office of master, 
 
 ST, PAUL'S, CoYEXT Garden, on the W. side of the 
 market, was built by Inigo Jones, circ. 1633, at the expense 
 of the ground landlord, Francis, Earl of Bedford; repaired, 
 in 1727, by the Earl of Burlington ; totally destroyed by fire, 
 Sept. 17th, 1795; and rebuilt (John Hardwick, architect) on 
 the plan and in the proportions of the original building. 
 The parish registers record the baptism of Lady Maiy "Wortley 
 Montague, and the burials of. iliQioWovfing Eminent Persons. — 
 The notorious Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset (d. 1645). — 
 Samuel Butler (d, 1680), author of Hudibras. He died in 
 Rose-street, 
 
 "He [Butler] dyed of a consumption, Septemb. 25, (Anno D"'- 16.S0), 
 and buried 27, according to his owne appointment in the chiirch-yard of 
 Covent Garden ; sc. in the north part next the churcli at the east end. 
 His feet touch the wall. His grave, 2 yards distant from the pilaster of 
 the dore (by his desire), 6 foot deepe. About 25 of his old acquaintance 
 at his funerall: I myself being one." — Auljrey's Lives, ii. 263. 
 
 Sir Peter Lely, the painter (d. 1680), His monument, with 
 his bust by Gibbons, and his epitaph by Flatman, shared the 
 fate of the church when destroyed by fire in 1795.— Edward 
 Kynaston (d. 1712), the celebrated actor of female parts at 
 the Restoration ; a complete female stage beautj^. William 
 Wycherley (d. 1715), the dramatist. He died in Bow-street. 
 — Grinling Gibbons (d. 1721), the sculptor and carver in 
 wood. — Susannah Centlivre (d, 1723), author of The Busy 
 Body and The Wonder. — Dr. Arne, the composer of Rule 
 Britannia (d. 1778). — Dr. John Armstrong, author of the Art 
 of Preserving Health, a poem (d. 1779). — Sir Robert Strange, 
 the engi-aver (d, 1792,) — Thomas Girtin, the father of the 
 school of English water colours (d, 1802). — Charles Macklin,
 
 124 XIV. — BOW CHURCH. 
 
 the actor (d. 1797), at the age of 107. — John Wolcot (Peter 
 Pindar), d. 1819. In front of this church the hustings are 
 raised for the general elections of Westminster. Here, 
 before the Reform Bill, raged those fierce contests of many 
 days' duration in which Fox, Sir Francis Burdett, and others 
 were popular candidates. 
 
 ST. MARY LE BOW, in Cheapside, commonly called 
 '•' Bow Church," is one of Wren's masterpieces. " The 
 steeple," says Horace Walpole, '• is much admired ; for my 
 part," he adds, " I never saw a beautiful modern steeple." 
 Observe. — The fine old Norman crypt : Wren used the arches 
 of the old church to support his own superstimcture. It is 
 now a vault, and concealed in parts by piles of coffins ; the 
 interior is poor, '•' Bow-bells " have long been and are still 
 famous. 
 
 " In tlie year 1469 it was ordained by a Common Council that the Botr 
 Bell should be nightly nnig at nine of the clock. Shortly after, John 
 Donne, mercer, by his testament dated 1472, gave to the parson and 
 churchwardens two tenements in Hosier Lane to the maintenance of 
 Bow Bell, the same to be rung as aforesaid, and other things to be 
 observed as by the will appeareth. This Bell being usually rung some- 
 what late, as seemed to the young men, prentices, and others in Cheap, 
 they made and set up a rlijTne against the clerk as foUoweth : 
 ' Clerk of the Bow Bell, with the yellow lockes, 
 For thy late ringing thy head shall have knocks.' 
 
 Whereunto the Clerk replying wrote : 
 
 ' Children of Cheape, hold you all still, 
 For you shall have the Bow Bell nmg at your will." 
 
 Stov;, p. 96. 
 
 People born within the sound of Bow-bells are usually called 
 Cockneys. Beaumont and Fletcher speak of " Bow-bell 
 suckers," i. e., as Mr. Dyce properlj- explains it, " childi-en 
 born within the soimd of Bow-bell." The present set of 
 bells, ten in number, were cast and set up in 1762. All 
 differ in weight, — the smallest weighing 8 cwt. 3 qr. 7 lb., and 
 the largest 53 cwt, 22 lb. Pope has confirmed the reputation 
 of these bells in a celebrated line : — 
 
 " Far as loud Bow's stupendous bells resound." ^ 
 
 The dragon on the steeple is 8 feet 10 inches long. The 
 Coui't of Arches (an Ecclesiastical Court so called) derives 
 its name from the arched vault under Bow Church, in which 
 the court was originally held — the church itself derives its 
 name from its being the first church in London built on 
 arches of stone. The balcony in the tower overlooking 
 Cheapside had its origin in the old seldam or shed in which 
 our kings used to sit to see the jousts and ridings in Cheapside.
 
 XIV. ST. MAGNUS, LON'DOX BRIDGE. 125 
 
 ST. BRIDE, or ST. BRIDGET, Fleet-street, one of Wren's 
 architectux-al glories, was completed in the year 1703, at the 
 cost of 11,430/. The steeple, much and deservedly admired, 
 was, a-S left by Wren, 234 feet in height, but in 1764, when it 
 was stmck with lightning, and otherwise seriously injtu'ed, it 
 was reduced 8 feet. "Wren took the idea of its consti-uction 
 from the whoiis of a particular species of univalve shell. The 
 interior has many admirers — less airy perhaps than St. James's, 
 Piccadilly, but still extremely elegant. The stained glass 
 window (a copy from Rubens's Descent from the Cross) was 
 the work of Mr. Muss. In the old chixrch were buried : — 
 Wynkin de Worde, the celebrated printer. — Sir Richard Baker, 
 author of the Chronicle which bears his name (d. 1644-5, in 
 the Fleet Prison). — Richard Lovelace, the poet (d. 1658). In 
 the present church were buried : — Ogilby, the translator of 
 Homer. — Sandford, author of the Genealogical History which 
 bears his name. — The widov/ of Sir Wilham Davenant, the 
 poet ; and her son Dr. Charles Davenant, the pohtical writer 
 (d. 1714). — Richardson, author of Clarissa Harlowe, and a 
 printer in Salisbury-squai'e (d. 1761) : his grave (half hid by 
 pew Xo. 8, on the S. side) is marked by a flat stone, about the 
 middle of the centre aisle. — Robert Lloyd, the friend of 
 Charles Cluu'chill, 
 
 ST. STEPHEN, Walbrook, immediately behind the Man- 
 sion House, is one of Wren's most celebrated chmx-hes. The 
 exterior is impromising, but the interior is all elegance and 
 even grandeur. The lights are admirably disposed tlu-ough- 
 out. Architects find faults — the public, few or none — 
 though the oval openings are, I fear, somewhat ungraceful. 
 The walls and columns are of stone, but the dome is formed 
 of timber and lead. The east window, by Willement, was 
 erected at the expense of the Grocers' Company. Sir John 
 Vanbrugh, the architect and wit (d. 1726), lies buried in the 
 family vault of the Yanbi-ughs, in this church. The present 
 rector is the Rev. Dr. Croly, author of Salathiel, and other 
 works of fancy and imagination. 
 
 ST. MAGXUS, London Bridge, is by Wren. The cupola 
 and lantern ai-e much admired. The foot-way under the 
 steeple was made (circ. 1760) to widen the road to old London 
 Bridge. Some difficulty was expected at the time, but Wren 
 had foreseen the probability of a change, and the alteration 
 was effected with ease and security. On the S. side of the 
 communion-table is a tablet to the memory of Miles Coverdale, 
 rector of St. Magnus and Bishop of Exeter, under whose
 
 120 xiv. — ST. James's Piccadilly. 
 
 direction, Oct. 4th, 1535, "the first complete printed English 
 version of the Bible was published." When the church of 
 St. Bartholomew-by-the-Exchange was taken down, his remains 
 were reverently taken care of and here interred. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S, Piccadilly, or St. James's, Westminster. 
 Was built (1682-84) by Sir Christopher Wren, and erected at 
 the expense of Heniy Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, the patron 
 of Cowley, and the husband, it is said, of Henrietta Maria, the 
 widow of Charles I. The exterior of the church is of red 
 brick with stone quoms, and is mean and ugly in the extreme. 
 The interior is a masterpiece, light, airy, elegant, and capacious 
 • — well worthy the study of an architect. It is Wren's cJtef- 
 cVoeuvre in this way— and especially adapted to the Protestant 
 Church service. 
 
 " I can hardly think it practicable to make a single room so capacious, 
 with pews and galleries, as to hold above 2000 persons, and all to hear 
 the service, and both to hear distinctly and see the pi-eacher. I en- 
 deavoured to effect this in building the parish church of St. James, 
 Westminster, -which I presume is the most capacious with these 
 qualifications that hath yet been built ; and yet at a solemn time when 
 the church was much crowded I could not disceni from a gallery that 
 2000 persons were present in this church I mention, though very broad, 
 and the nave arched up. And yet, as there are no walls of a second 
 order, nor lantern, nor buttresses, but the whole roof rests upon the 
 pillars, as do also the galleries, I think it may be found beautiful and 
 convenient, and as such the cheapest form of any I could invent." — Sir 
 Christoiiher Wren. 
 
 The marble font, a very beautiful one, is the work of Grinling 
 Gibbons. The missing cover (represented in Vertue's en- 
 graving) was stolen, and, it is said, subseciuently hung as n 
 kind of sign at a spirit-shop in the immediate neighbourhood 
 of the church. The beautiful foliage over the altar is also 
 from the hand of Gibbons. The organ, a very fine one, was 
 made for James II., and designed for his popish chapel at 
 "\Miitehall. His daughter. Queen INlary, gave it to the church. 
 The painted window at the E. end of the chancel, by Wailes 
 of Newcastle, was erected in 1846. 
 
 Eminent Persons interred in. — Charles Cotton, Izaak 
 Walton's associate in The Complete Angler. — Dr. Sydenham, 
 the physician. — The elder and younger Yandervelde. On a 
 grave-stone in the church is, or was, tliis inscription ; " Mr. 
 William Vandervelde, senior, late painter of sea-fights to 
 their Majesties King Charles II. and King James, dyed 1693." 
 — Tom d'Urfey, the dramatist (d. 1723). There is a tablet 
 to his memoiy on the outer S. wall of the tower of the 
 church. The inscription is simple enough " Tom d'Urfey 
 died February 26th, 1723." — Henry Sydney, Earl of Romney,
 
 XIT. — ST. MARTIX-IN-THE-FIELDS, 127 
 
 the handsome Syduev of De Grammout's Memoirs (d, 1704). 
 There is a monumeut to his memory in the chancel. — Dr. 
 Arbuthnot (d. 1734-5), the friend of Pope, Swift, and Gay.— 
 Mark Akenside, M.D., author of The Pleasm-es of Imagination. 
 — James Gillray, the caricaturist : in the churchyard, beneath 
 a flat stone on the "W. side of the rectory. — Sii* John Malcolm, 
 the eminent soldier and diplomatist. — The register records the 
 baptisms of the polite Earl of Chesterfield and the great 
 Earl of Chatham. The portraits of the rectors in the vestiy 
 are worth seeing, including those of Tenison and Wake, 
 afterwards Archbishops of Canterbury, and of Samuel Clarke, 
 author of The Attributes of the Deity. 
 
 ST. MARY WOOLXOTH, Lombard Street, was designed 
 by Nicholas Hawksmoor (d. 1736), the '"domestic clerk" 
 and assistant of Sir Christopher Wren, and built in 1716, on 
 the site of an old church of the same name, '"'the reason 
 of which name,"' says Stow, " I have not yet learnt." This 
 is the best of Hawksmoor's churches, and has been much 
 admired. The exterior is bold, and at least original ; the 
 interior effective and well-proportioned. Observe. — Tablet to 
 the Eev. John Xewton (Cowper's friend), rector of this church 
 for 28 years (d. 1S07). It is thus inscribed : — 
 
 " Jolin Newton, clerk, once an infidel and libertine, a sei^vant of slaves 
 in Africa, was, by the rich mercj' of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, 
 presei-ved, restored, pardoned, and appointed to preach the faith he had 
 long laboured to destroy."' 
 
 ST. MARTIX-ix-THE-FIELDS, (now in Trafalgar-square) 
 was built by Gibbs, 1721-26, at a cost of 36,891/. 10s. U., 
 including 1500?. for an organ. The portico is one of the finest 
 pieces of ai'chitecture in London. The interior is so con- 
 structed that it is next to impossible to erect a monument. 
 The steeple is heavy, but well-proportioned ; its position, 
 however, is awkward, since it appears to weigh down the 
 portico. In the vaults may be seen the old parish whipping- 
 post, and the Tombs of Sir Theodore Mayerne (physician to 
 James I. and Charles I.), and of Secretary Coventry, from 
 whom Coventry-street derives its name. St. Mai'tin's-ia-the- 
 Fields oi'iginally included the several parishes of St. Paul's, 
 Covent-garden ; St. James's, Westminster ; St. Ann's, Soho ; 
 and St. George's, Hanover-square ; extending as far as !Mary-le- 
 bone to the X., Whitehall on the S., the Savoy on the E., 
 and Chelsea and Kensington on the W. St. Paul's, Covent- 
 garden, was taken out of it in 1638 ; St. James's, Westminster, 
 iu 1684 ; and Sc. Anns, Soho, in 16S6. About the year 16S0
 
 12S XIV. — ST. George's, haxovep. square. 
 
 it -was, what Burnet calls it, "the greatest cure in England." 
 ■with a population, says Richard Baxter, of 40,000 persons 
 more than could come into the church, and " where neigh- 
 bours," he adds, " lived, like Americans, without hearing a 
 sermon for many years." Fresh separations only tended, to 
 lessen the resources of the parish, and notliing was done to 
 improve its appearance till 1826, Avhen the mews and the 
 chux'chyard were removed and the present Trafalgar-square 
 commenced. Eminent persons hurled. — Hilliard, the miniature 
 painter (d. 1619). — Paul Vansomer, the painter (d. 1621). — Sir 
 John Davys, the poet (d. 1626). — IST, Laniere, the painter and 
 musician (d. 16-46). — Dobson, called the English Van Dyck 
 (d. 1646).— Stanley, the editor of ^Eschylus (d. 1678).--N'ell 
 Gw;3nine, in the church (d. 1687). — Hon. Eobert Boyle, the 
 philosopher (d. 1691). — Lord Mohuu, who fell in a duel with 
 the Duke of Hamilton (d. 1712).— Jack Sheppard (d. 1724).— 
 Farquhar, the di-amatist (d. 1707). — Roubiliac, the sculptor 
 (d. 1762). — James Stuart, author of the Antiquities of Athens, 
 &c. (d. 1788). — John Hunter, the surgeon (d, 1793). — James 
 Smith, one of the authors of the Rejected Addresses (d. 
 1839). The i-egister records the baptism of Lord Bacon, 
 born, 1561, in York House, in the Strand, on the site of 
 Buckingham-street. ' 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH, Hanover Square, was built 
 by John James, and consecrated 1724. This was one of the 
 fifty new churches. It contains 3 good Jesse windows of 
 sixteenth century work, brought from Mechlin, and purchased 
 by subscription. In this (the most fashionable church for 
 marriages in London, in which the Duke of Wellington gave 
 away so many brides) Sir William Hamilton was married, 
 1791, to the Lady Hamilton, so intimatel}" connected with the 
 story of Lord Nelson. Her name in the register is Emma 
 Harte. Here the late Duke of Sussex was married (1793), 
 as "Augustus Frederick," to Lady Augusta Murray. 
 
 In the bui'ial-ground on the road to Bayswater, belonging 
 to this parish, and near the W. wall, Laurence Sterne, the 
 author of Tristram Shandy and the Sentimental Journey, 
 is buried. His grave is distinguished by a plain head- 
 stone, set up with an unsuitable inscription, by a tippling 
 fraternity of Freemasons. He died (1768) in Old Bond-street, 
 in this j)ax'ish. 
 
 In the modem classic style. Observe. — Churches of ST. 
 MARYLEBOXE and ST. PANCRAS (both in the Xew Road) 
 among the best specimens in London. St. Marylebone was 
 built, 1813-17; by Thomas Hardwick, and cost 60,000?, St.
 
 XIV. CHURCHES. 1 29 
 
 Pancros was btiilt, 1819-22, by the Messrs. Inwood, and cost 
 76,6791. 7s. Sd. Wren's beautiful church of St. Mary-le-Bow 
 cost infinitely less than even St. Maiylebone. 
 
 The New church of ST. GILES, Camberwell, (3 miles 
 S. of Westminster Bridge,) was built, 1S41-4, by G. G. Scott, 
 and is the best specimen in the metropolis of modern Gothic. 
 The style is Decorated. 
 
 The church of ST. STEPHEN, Westminster, in Rochester- 
 row, Westminster (a London purlieu), is a beautiful specimen 
 of modern Gothic, built, 1847-49, by Benjamin Ferrey, archi- 
 tect, at the sole expense of Miss Coutts Burdett. The tower 
 interferes within with the harmony of the building, but all 
 the details throughout are excellent. The stained glass by 
 Willement is in his best style. The altar-cloth was 
 presented by the Duke of Wellington. 
 
 The chm-ch and college of ST. BARXABAS, Pimlico, were 
 built, 1846-49, by Thomas Cundy, at a cost of 20,000/., exclu- 
 sive of gifts, for the Rev. W. J. E. Bennett, The stained glass 
 is by Wailes of Newcastle. The seats were enth-ely free. 
 Mr. Bennett resigned his charge during (1850) the popular 
 agitation against the Papal aggi-ession brought about by 
 the Pope and Cardinal Wiseman, 
 
 APOSTOLIC CHURCH (IRVIXGITE), Gordon Square, 
 a small cathedral in extent, and of good early Gothic cha- 
 racter, designed by Brandon. It is cruciform in plan, ex- 
 tending 180 feet, but is not yet finished. The choir rises in 
 three stages; on the lowest are various lecterns; the second 
 is allotted for the stalls of '• the Elders," and the throne of 
 '•'the Augel;" while on the highest stands the Altar. 
 Behind it is a sort of vestry chapel. The tower is unfinished. 
 There is some modern painted glass. 
 
 WESLEYAX CHAPEL, in the City Road, over agamst 
 the entrance to Bunhill-fields. Behind the chapel is the 
 gi-ave of John Wesley (d. 1791). The tomb which covers 
 his gi-ave was erected in 1791, and reconstructed and en- 
 lai-ged in 1840 during the centenaiy of Methodism. In the 
 chapel is a tablet to Charles Wesley (d. 1788), "' the fii'st who 
 received the name of Methodist." 
 
 WHITEFIELD'S CHAPEL, on the W. side of Tottenham 
 Court Road, was built in 1675, by subscription, under the 
 auspices of the Rev. George Whitefield, founder of the 
 Methodists. ^Vhitefield preached (Nov. 7th, 1756) the first 
 
 K
 
 130 XIV. — ROMAN CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL. 
 
 sermon in the eliapel to a very crowded audience. Mrs. 
 Whitefield (d. 1768) is buried here; and here, on a monu- 
 ment to her memory, is an inscriiDtion to her husband, who 
 dying in New England, in 1770, was buried at Newbury 
 Port, near Boston. John Bacon, R. A., the celebrated sculptor, 
 is buried under the N. gallery. A good specimen of his talents 
 as a sculptor may be seen in a bas-relief in this chapel. 
 
 ROWLAND HILL'S CHAPEL, or " Surrey Chapel," is in 
 the Black FRIARS Road. Hill was a distinguished follower of 
 Whitefield. The chapel was built for Hill himself in 1782-3, 
 and here ho preached for nearly 50 years. 
 
 SCOTTISH CHURCHES. 
 
 Swallow St., Piccadilly. 
 
 National Scotch Church, Crown Court, Long Acre. 
 Dr. Cumming (minister). 
 
 Cross St., Hatton Garden. This was Irving's first place 
 of preaching in London, and here he drew crowded and 
 delighted congregations. 
 
 Scottish (Free) Church, Regent-square. Built for Rev. 
 Edward Irving, and where the unknown tongues he believed 
 in were first heard. 
 
 ROMAN CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL AND CHAPELS. 
 
 The principal Roman Catholic Edifices in London are : — 
 
 St. George's Cathedral, at the angle of the St. George's 
 and Westminster Roads, in the so-called Roman Catholic 
 diocese of South wark (the largest Roman Catholic church 
 erected in this countiy since the Reformation), built, 1840-48, 
 from the designs of A. W. Pugin. It is without galleries, will 
 hold 3000 people, and is said to have cost 30,000^. The style 
 is decoi\ated or middle pointed Gothic, and the material used 
 hard yellow brick vrith dressings of Caen stone. The Petre 
 Cliantry, founded for the repose of the soul of the Hon. 
 Edward Petre (d. 1848), the High Altar, the Pulpit, and the 
 Font are all excellent in their architectural details. The tower 
 is still unfinished. Here is the throne of Cardinal Wiseman. 
 
 Roman Catholic Chapel (St. Mary's), in Bloomfield- 
 street, Moorfields (East-street, Finsbury-circus). Here Weber 
 was buried till the removal of his remains to Dresden, in 1844. 
 
 Bavarian Chapel, Warwick-street, Regent-street, occupying 
 the site of the Roman Catholic chapel, destroved in the riots 
 of 1780. 
 
 Sardinian Chapel, Duke-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields. 
 
 Spanish Chapel, Spanish-place, Manchester-square.
 
 XIV. FOREIGX CHURCHES. 131 
 
 lu York-street, St. James' s-square, is tlie Chapel of former 
 Embassies, -with the arms of Castile still remaiiiing ou tlie 
 building. 
 
 French Chapel, Little George-street, Kiiig-street, Portman- 
 squai'e. 
 
 High Mass begins geuerally at 11 a.m. and Vespers at 6 p.jI. 
 Extra full Masses are performed on the first Sunday in the 
 month, on High Feasts and Festivals, Christmas-day, Easter- 
 day, etc. To secure a sitting, it is necessary to pay a shilling 
 and attend about an hour before the service begins. In most 
 of the Chapels, the mvisic is very grand and impressive, and 
 finely- performed by eminent professional characters, the 
 membei-3 of the Italian Opera Company assisting at their 
 grand festivals. For further information, see "The CathoHc 
 Directory and Ecclesiastical Register," published by Dolman, 
 61, Xew Bond-street, price Is. Cardinal Wiseman (when in 
 tovm) is at home (35, Golden-square) every Tuesday, 
 Thui'sday, and Saturday, between 11 and 2 o'clock : Tuesday 
 being specially devoted to the clergy. 
 
 GERMAX LUTHERAN CHURCH is in the Savoy, off 
 the Strand. 
 
 GER:yiAX LUTHERAX CHAPEL, St. James's Palace, 
 between it and Maiiborough House. 
 
 FREXCH PROTESTAXT CHURCH, formerly in the 
 Savoy, is now in Bloomsbury-street, Bloomsbuiy. Built by 
 Ambrose Poynter, architect, in 1845. 
 
 FREXCH PROTESTAXT CHURCH, founded by Edward 
 YL, and foi-merly in Threailneedle-street. on the site of the 
 Hall of Commerce, is now in St. Martin's-le-grand, ovea* 
 against the General Post Office. 
 
 The SWEDISH CHURCH, in Prince's Square, Rat- 
 CLiEFE Highway. Here Baron Swedenborg (d. 1772), 
 foimder of the sect of Swedenborgiaus, is bm'ied. 
 
 The DAXISH CHURCH is in Wellclose Square, White- 
 chapel, now the British and Foreign Sailors' Chm'ch. It was 
 built in 1696, by Caius Gabriel Cibber, the sculptor, at the 
 expense of Christian Y., king of Denmark, as appears by the 
 inscription over the entrance, who gave it for the use of his 
 subjects, merchants, and seamen, accustomed to visit the port 
 of London. Within the church is a tablet, the second on your 
 right hand as you enter, to the wife of Caius Gabriel Cibber 
 (Jane CoUey), the mother of Colley Cibbei\ The father and
 
 132 XV. — CEMETERIES. 
 
 son are both interred in the vaults of this church. Attached 
 to the pulpit is a handsome frame of brass with four sand- 
 glasses, and immediately opposite is the " Royal Pew," in 
 which Christian VIL, King of Denmark, sat, when on a ^dsit 
 to this country, in 1768. 
 
 JEWS' SYNAGOGUE, Great St. Helen's, St. Mart Axe, 
 Leadenhall Street. Divine ser%-ice here begins an hour 
 before sunset every Friday. The most imposing ceremonies 
 take place at the time of the Passover (Easter time). In the 
 Jews' Bvirial Ground, in Whitechapel-road, a continuation of 
 Whitechapel High-street, N. M. Rothschild (d. 1836), long 
 the leading stock-broker of Europe, and the founder of 
 the Rothschild family, was buried. 
 
 For further information, see Low's Handbook to the places 
 of Public Worship in Loudon, price Is. Gd. 
 
 XV.-CEMETERIES. 
 
 The principal places of sepulture were, till 1855, our 
 churches and churchyards. St. George's Chapel, in the Bays- 
 water-road, contains 1120 coffins beneath its pavement — and 
 the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields a still greater number. 
 The sexton at Bayswater admitted, in 1850, that it was 
 only by boring in the burial-ground that a spot for a new 
 grave could be found, and that for several yeai'S prior to 
 1848 there had been upwards of 1000 burials a year within 
 its precinct. Yet this great nuisance is situated in the very 
 heart of the new and expensive houses in Hyde-Park- 
 gardens. The Xorman vault of St. ]\Iar3'-le-Bow, in Cheap- 
 side (the great thoroughfare of London), is literally crammed 
 with leaden coffins piled 30 feet high, all on the lean from 
 their owoi immense weight, and covered with cobwebs and 
 fungi. The churchyard of St. Paul's, Covent-garden, (another 
 central cemetery), is a plague-spot of decayed human flesh 
 and human remains ; the narrow place of sepulture of two 
 centuries of the inhabitants of this parish. At the burial- 
 ground in Bethnal-green (a private pauper cemetery of about 
 2 J acres, surrounded by small dwellings, opened in 1746, 
 and said to contain the remains of 56,000 persons), the 
 nuisance, only a year since, was still worse from the putrid 
 effluvia, when liot weather followed rain. Corpses were
 
 XV. — KENSAL GREEN CEMETERY. 133 
 
 coustautly detained above-grouud, as the funeral service was 
 read but three days a Aveek, the clergj-mcu officiating being 
 obliged to stand on windward sides of graves. At St. Bennet's, 
 Graceehurch-street, the only access, in 1850, to a crowded 
 vault was by lifting the stones in the aisle. At St. Andre w's- 
 in-the-Wai'drobe (close to St. Paul's), graves as late as 1850 
 were actually dug in the vault beneath the church. At 
 St. Mary-at-Hill, between London Bridge and the Tower, the 
 vaults were, in 1850, iu a still worse condition. Xo one 
 dared to enter one of these vaults, unless the large trap- 
 door had been opened many hours. Certain of the more 
 obnoxious gravej^ards wei'e closed by order of the General 
 Board of Health, pursuant to 12 & 13 Vict., cap. 3; and 
 cemeteries are now (1856) in the course of formation in the 
 environs of London. The largest is at Woking, in Surrey. 
 
 KENSAL GREEN CEMETERY is on the Hahhow Road, 
 about 2i miles from the Paddington Station of the Gx-eat 
 "Western Railway. There is an omnibus to the Cemetery 
 Gates, leaving the Oxford and Cambridge Terrace portion of 
 the Edgeware-road, three times a day. Remember that the 
 cemetery is closed on Sundays till morning service is over. 
 It was formed by a joint-stock company in 1832, and is the only 
 one of the suburban cemeteries yielding a good dividend to the 
 proprietors. There is much bad taste in art exhibited in this 
 cemetery, and four of the most conspicuous tombs are to 
 St. John Long, the quack doctor ; Ducrow, the rider ; Mor- 
 rison, the pill-man ; and George Robins, the auctioneer. 
 Eminent Persons interred in. — Duke of Sussex, son of 
 George III. (d. 1843), and the Princess Sophia, daughter of 
 George III. (d. 1848)! The whole of the Royal Family had 
 been previously interi-ed in the royal vault at Windsor, but 
 the Duke of Sussex left particular directions that he should 
 be bui-ied in the cemetery at Kensal Green. The duke's 
 grave is near the chapel, and is marked by an enormous 
 granite tomb. Anne Scott and Sophia Lockhart, daughters 
 of the Author of Waverley, and John Hugh Lockhart, the 
 "Hugh Littlejohn" of the Tales of a Grandfather; monu- 
 ment in inner circle. Allan Cunningham (d. 1842), author 
 of the Lives of British Painters, Sculptors, &c. ; monument 
 in the N.W. comer of the cemetery. John Murray, of 
 Albemarle-street, the publisher, and friend of Lord Bp'on 
 (d. 1843) ; monument in inner circle. Rev. Sydney Smith, in 
 the public vault, catacomb B. Thomas Barnes (d. 1841), for 
 many years editor of " The Times " newspaper ; altar-tomb. 
 Tom Hood, the poet and wit (d. 1845), buried near Ducrow's
 
 134 XV.— BUNHILL FIELDS. 
 
 monument. John Listen, the actor, tlie original Paul Pry 
 (d. 1846) ; altar-tomb, surmounted by an urn, on the left of 
 the chapel. J. C. Loudon (d. 1843), celebrated for liis 
 ■works on gardening ; altar-tomb. George Dyer, the historian 
 of Cambridge, editor of Valpy's Delphin Classics, and the 
 " G. D." of Charles Lamb (d. 1841). Sir Augustus Callcott, 
 the painter (d. 1844) ; flat stone. Dr. Birkbeck, the pro- 
 moter of Mechanics' Institutions (d. 1841). Sir Wil]}am 
 Beatty (d. 1842), Nelson's svirgeon at the battle of Trafalgar; 
 tablet in colonnade. Thomas Daniell, R.A., the landscape 
 painter (d. 1840) ; altar-tomb ; the inscription was written 
 by Allan Cunningham at the request of Sir David Wilkio. 
 Sir j\Iark Isambard Brunei, Engineer of the Thames Tunnel, 
 inventor of Block Machines, &c., on left of the main avenue ; 
 Sir William Molesworth (d. 1855), Editor of Hobbes, &c. 
 
 The other modern Cemeteries are — Highgate, beautifully 
 situated : fine view of London. Abitey Park, 3^ miles from 
 Post-office, containing a statue, by Baily, of Dr. Isaac Watts, 
 erected to commemorate the residence of Watts at Abney 
 Park, Stoke Ne^\ington, the seat of Sir Thomas Abne}^ The 
 site of the house is included in the cemetery. Brompton, 
 2 miles from Hyde-Park-corner, on the road to Fulham. 
 Victoria Cemetery, in the east of London. Tower Ham- 
 lets Cemetery, in the east of London. Nuxhead Ceme- 
 tery, and Norwood Cemetery, both on the Surrey side. 
 Of these cemeteries, Highgate and Norwood will alone rej)ay 
 a visit. The others are poorly situated, without graves or 
 monuments of any interest. 
 
 BUNHILL FIELDS BUPJAL GROUND, near Finsbury 
 Square, called by Southey " the Campo Santo of the Dis- 
 senters," was first made use of as a pest-field or common 
 place of interment during the Great Plague of London in 
 1665. It then lay open to the fields, and is the "great pit 
 in Fiusbury " of De Foe's narrative. When the Plague v/as 
 over, the pit was inclosed with a brick wall, " at the sole 
 charges of the City of Loudon," and subsequently leased by 
 sevei^xl of the great Dissenting sects, vviio conscientiously- 
 objected to the burial-service in the Book of Common Prayer. 
 What stipulation was made with the City is unkno^vn, but 
 here all the interments of the Dissenters from this time 
 forward took place. Eminent Persons interred in. — Dr. Thomas 
 Goodwin (d. 1679), (altar-tomb, east end of ground,) the 
 Independent ]jreacher who attended Oliver Cromwell on his 
 death-bed. Cromwell had then his moments of misgiving, 
 and asked of Goodwin, who was standing by, if the elect could
 
 XV. — BUNHILL FIELDS. 135 
 
 never fiually fall. '•' Xotliiug could be more true," was Good- 
 win's answer. '• Theu am "I safe," said Cromwell : '• for I am 
 siu'e that once I was in a state of grace." — Dr. Jolm Owen 
 (d. 1683), Deau of Chiist Chui'ch, and Yice-Chaucellor of 
 Oxford when Cromwell was Chancellor. He was much in 
 favour with his party, and preached the first sermon before 
 the Parliament, after the execution of Charles I. — John 
 Buuyan, author of The Pilgrim's Progress, died 16SS, at the 
 house of his friend Mr. Strudv/ick, a grocer, at the Star on 
 Snow-hill, and v\'as buried in that friend's vault in Buuhill 
 Pields Bui'ial-ground. Modern curiosity has marked the 
 place of his interment with a brief inscription, but his name 
 is not recorded in the Register, and there was no mscriptiou 
 ui)on his gi'ave when Curll published his Bunhill Field lu- 
 -sciiptions, in 1717, or Strype his edition of Stow, in 1720. 
 It is said that many have made it then- desire to be interred 
 as near as possible to the spot where his remains are deposited. 
 — George Fox (d. 1690), the foimder of the sect of Quakers; 
 there is no memorial to his memory. — Lieut.-Gen. Fleetwood 
 (d. 1692), Lord Deputy Fleetwood of the Civil Wars, OMver 
 Cromwell's son-in-law, and husband of the widowof the gloomy 
 Ireton : there was a monument to his memory in Strype's time, 
 ■since obliterated or removed. — John Dunton, bookseller, 
 author of his own Life and Errors. — George A\Tiitehead, author 
 of The Cln-iBtian Progi*ess of George ^Miitehead, 1725. — Daniel 
 de Foe (d. 1731), author of Robinson Cinisoe. He was bom 
 (1661) in the parish of St. Giles's, Cripplegate, and was buried 
 in the gi'eat pit of Finsbury, which he has described in his 
 " Plague Year " with such terrific reahty. His second wife 
 was interred in the same gi-ave (spot imknowu) in 1732. — • 
 Susannah "Wesley (d. 1712), wife of the Rev. Samuel Wesley, 
 •and mother of John Wesley, founder of the people called 
 Methodists, and of Charles Wesley, the fii-st person who was 
 called a ^Methodist. There is a head-stone to her memoiy. — 
 Dr. Isaac Watts (d. 171S). There is a monument to his 
 memory, near the centre of the groiind. — Dr. James Foster, 
 Pope's '•'modest Foster" (d. 1753). There is a monument to 
 his memory. — Joseph Ritson, the antiquary (d. 1803), bm-ied 
 near his fi-iend Baynes ; the spot unmarked. — William Blake, 
 painter and poet (d. 1828); at the distance of about 25 feet 
 from the north wall in the grave numbered 80 ; no monu- 
 ment. — Thomas Stothard, R.A. (d. 1831), best known by his 
 '•' Canterbury Pilgiimage," his " Robinson Cinisoe," and his 
 illustrations to the Italy and smaller poems of Rogers. In 
 this cemetery, consisting of less than 4 acres, thei*e have been 
 interred fi-om April, 1713, to August, 1832, according to the
 
 136 XVI. — WESTMINSTER HALL. 
 
 registiy, — in the eai-lier years, however, veiy imperfectly kept, 
 — 107,416 dead bodies. " And this too is festering in the very 
 heart of London ! 
 
 [See Places of Burial of Eminent Pei^sons, p. 210.] 
 
 XVI.-COURTS OF LAW AND JUSTICE. 
 
 WESTMINSTER HALL. The old Hall of the Palace of 
 our Kings at Westminster, Avell and wisely incorporated by 
 Sir Charles Bany into his new Houses of Pai-liameut. It 
 was originally built in the reign of William Rufus (Pope 
 calls it '"'Rtifas' roaring Hall"); and during the recent 
 x-efiicing of the outer walls, a Norman arcade of the time 
 of Rufus was uncovered, but has, I believe, been since 
 destroyed. The present Hall was built, or rather repaired, 
 1397-99 {in the last three years of Richard II.), when 
 the w^alls were carried up two feet higher ; the windows 
 altered ; and a stately porch and new roof constructed ac- 
 cording to the design of Master Henry Zenely. The stone 
 moulding or string-course that runs round the Hall preserves 
 the white hart couchant, the favoui-ite device of Richard 11. 
 The roof, with its hammer beams (carved with angels), to 
 diminish the lateral pressure that falls upon the walls, is of 
 chesnut, and very fine ; the finest of its kind in this country. 
 Fuller speaks of its "cobwebless beams," alluding to the 
 vulgar belief that it was built of a particular kind of Avood 
 (Irish oak) in which spiders cannot live. It is more curious, 
 because ti'ue, that our early Parliaments were held in, this 
 Hall, and that the first meeting of Parliament in the new 
 edifice was for deposing the very King by whom it had been 
 built. The Law Courts of England, four in number, and of 
 which Sir Edward Coke observed that no man can tell which 
 of them is most ancient, were permanently established in 
 Westminster Hall in the year 1224 (the 9th of King 
 Henry III.); and here, in certain courts abutting from the 
 Hall, they are still held, thouglj there is now (1854) a talk 
 of removing them to Lincoln's-Iun-fields. These courts are 
 called the Court of Chancery, in which the Lord Chancellor 
 sits, with a salaiy of 14,000?. a year (liereafter to be 10,000Z.) ; 
 the Court of Queen's Bench, in which the Lord Chief Justice 
 of the King's Bench sits, with a salary of 8000Z. a year; the 
 Court of Common Pleas, presided over by a Chief Justice,
 
 XVI. — WESTMINSTER HALL. 137 
 
 with, a salary of 7000/. a year and the Court of Exchequer. 
 The courts were originally within the Hall itself, and the 
 name Westminster Hall is not unfrequently used for the law 
 itself. The highest Court of Appeal in the Kingdom is the 
 House of Lords, presided over by the Lord Chancellor ; and 
 it sometimes happens that the judgments of the Law Courts 
 in Westminster Hall are reversed in the Lords. 
 
 That the law is not veiy rapid in its course, is well illus- 
 trated by an anecdote told by the present Lord Chief Justice 
 in his Lives of the Lord Chancellors : — " The late Mr. Jekyll 
 told me," says his lordship, '•' that, soon after he was called to 
 the bar, a strange solicitor, coming up to him in Westminster 
 Hall, begged him to step into the Court of Chanceiy to make 
 a motion of course, and gave him a fee. The young ban-ister 
 looking pleased but a little surprised, the solicitor said to 
 liim, ' I thought you had a sort of right, sir, to tbis motion, 
 for the bill was drawn by Sir Joseph Jekyll, your great 
 grand-imcle, in the reign of Queen Anne.' " Xow, however, 
 Government has taken up the serious delays occasioned to 
 suitors, and the Court of Chancery, with its two Judges of 
 Appeal, is Hkely to become a Pie Powder Coui't where justice 
 is administered as soon as it is sought. 
 
 The revenue of the Court of Chancery is derived from a 
 Fee Fund yielding about 180,000/. a year, and a Suitor's Fund 
 beiug the interest on about 3,800,000/., the property of suitors 
 (standing in the name of the Accountant General of the Court 
 of Chanceiy), and yielding about 112,000/. a year. 
 
 When Peter the Great was taken into Westminster Hall, 
 he inquired who those busy people were in \^-igs and black 
 gowns. He was answered they are lawyers. "' La-vsyers ! " 
 said he, with a face of astonishment : '• vrhy I have but tivo 
 m my whole dominions, and I beheve I shall hang one of 
 them the moment I get home." 
 
 Let the spectator pictui'e to himself the appearance which 
 this venerable Hall has pi-esented on many occasions. Here 
 Avere himg the banners taken from Charles I. at the battle of 
 Naseby ; from Charles II. at the battle of Worcester ; at 
 Preston and Dunbar ; and, somewhat later, those taken at 
 the battle of Blenheim. Here, at the upper end of the Hall, 
 Oliver Cromwell was inaugurated as Lord Protector, sitting 
 in a robe of pvu'ple velvet lined with ermine, on a rich cloth 
 of state, with the gold sceptre in one hand, the Bible richly 
 gilt and bossed in the other, and his sword at his side ; and 
 hei'e, four years later, at the top of the Hall fronting Palace- 
 yard, his head was set on a pole, with the skull of Ireton on 
 one side of it and the skull of Bradshaw on the other. Here
 
 138 . XVI. — WESTMINSTER HALL. 
 
 shameless ruffiaus sought employment as hired witnesses, 
 and walked openly in the Hall with a straw in the shoe to 
 denote their quality ; and here the good, the great, the brave, 
 the wise, and the abandoned have been brought to trial. 
 Here (in the Hall of Rufus) Sir William V\^allaee was tned 
 and condemned ; here, in this very Hall, Sir Thomas More 
 and the Protector Somerset were doomed to the scaffold. 
 Here, in Henry VHI.'s reign (1517), entered the City appren- 
 tices, implicated in the murders on '• Evil May Day " of the 
 aliens settled in London, each with a halter round his neck, 
 and crying " Mercy, gracious Lord, mercy," while Wolsey 
 stood b}^ and the King, beneath his cloth of state, heard 
 their defence and prouovmced then* pardon — the prisoners 
 shouting with delight and casting up their haltei'S to the 
 Hall roof, " so that the Iving," as the chroniclers observe, 
 " might j)erceive they were none of the descreetest sort." 
 Here the notorious Earl and Countess of Somerset were ti'ied 
 in the reign of James I. for the murder of Sir Thomas Over- 
 bury, Here the great Earl of Strafford was condemned ; the 
 King being present, and the Commons sitting bareheaded all 
 the time. Here the High Court of Justice sat which con- 
 demned King Charles I., the upper part of the Hall hung 
 with scarlet cloth, and the King sitting covered, with the 
 Naseby banners above his head : here Lily, the astrologer, who 
 was present, saw the silver top fall from the King's staff, and 
 others heard Lady Fairfax exclaim, when her husband's name 
 was called over, "He has more wit than to be here." Here, 
 in the reign of James II., the seven bishops were acquitted. 
 Here Dr. Sacheverel was tried and pronounced guilty by a 
 majority of 17. Here the rebel Lords of 1745, Kilmarnock, 
 Balmermo, and Lovat, were heard and condemned. Hei'e 
 Lord Byron was tried for killing Mr. Chaworth; Lord Ferrers 
 for mvirdering his steward ; and the Duchess of Kingston, a 
 few years later, for bigamy. Here Warren Hastings was 
 tried, and Burke and Sheridan grew eloquent and impas- 
 sioned, while senators by birth and election, and the beauty 
 and rank of Great Britain, sat earnest spectators and 
 listeners of the extraordinary scene. The last public trial 
 in the Hall itself was Lord Melville's in 1806 ; and the 
 last coronation dinner in the Hall was that of George IV., 
 when, accoi'ding to the custom maintained for ages, and for 
 the last time probably, the King's champion (young Dymocke) 
 rode into the Hall in full armour, and threw down the 
 gauntlet, challenging the world in a King's behalf. Silver 
 plates were laid, on the same occasion, for 334 guests. 
 
 This noble Hall is 290 feet long, by 68 feet wide, and 110
 
 XVI. — OLD BAILEY — POLICE COURTS. 139 
 
 feet liigh. It is said to be the largest apartmeut not supported 
 bj pillai'S iu the v>^orld — save one — the Hall of Justice, at 
 Padua. Tiie next largest Hall in Loudon is the Hall at 
 Ohi-ist's Hospital. The floor has recently been restored to 
 something like its original elevation in relation to the height 
 of the building ; but a still greater change is contemplated 
 by Sir C. Barry — the elevation of the roof without disturbing 
 a single joint in its structure, unconnected with the 'walls it 
 rests on, 
 
 THE OLD BAILEY SESSIONS HOUSE, or Central 
 Criminal Court, in the Old Bailey, adjoining Xewgate, for 
 the trial and conviction of prisoners for offences committed 
 within 10 miles of St. Paul's, is regulated by Act of Parlia- 
 ment, 4 & 5 Will. IV., c. 36. In the ''Old Com't" sit one or 
 more of the judges in AVestminster Hall. In the New Court 
 the presiding judges are the Recorder and Common Seijeant 
 of the Corporation of London. L^pwards of 2000 persons, 
 annually, are placed at the bar of the Old Baile}' for trial ; 
 about one third are acquitted, one third are first offences, and 
 the remaining portion have been convicted before. The 
 sti'anger is admitted on payment of at least Is. to the officer 
 whose perquisite it is,- but this percjuisite is regulated by 
 the officer himself, according to the importance of the trials 
 that are on. Over the Court-room is a Dining-room, where 
 the judges dine when the Court is over — a practice com- 
 memorated by a well-known line — 
 
 " And wretches hang that jurymen may dine."' 
 
 The dinners are pleasant, speedy, and well attended. 
 Adjoining the Sessions House is the pi'ison called " Neicgate." 
 [See p. 147.] 
 
 The Metropolitan County Courts, holding a summary 
 jurisdiction over debts and demands not exceeding 50^., are 
 eleven in number. The judges are barristers appointed by 
 the Lord Chancellor. The Banlruptcy Court is in Basinghall- 
 street, in the City ; the Insolvent Debtors Court in Portugal- 
 street, Lincoln's-Inn-Fields. 
 
 CLERKEXWELL SESSIONS HOUSE, the next in import- 
 ance to the Old Bailey, was originally Hicks's Hall, and was 
 removed hither in 1782. A fine James I. chimney-piece fi'om 
 the old Hall is one of the interior decorations of the House. 
 
 The City Police Courts are at the Mansion H<juse and 
 Guildhall, where the Loi'd Mayor, or the sitting Alderman, 
 are the magistrates who decide cases or send them for trial.
 
 140 XVI. — POLICE COURTS. 
 
 The Police Courts connected with the Metropolitan Police 
 are eleven in number, mider the conti'ol of the Secretary of 
 State for the Home Department, each presided over by a 
 Barrister of at least seven yeai's standing at the bar, and who 
 sits daily, Sundays excepted. The Metropolitan Courts are — 
 Bow-street, Clcrkenwell, Great Marlborough-street, Greenwich, 
 and Woolwich, Hammersmith and Wandsworth, Lambeth, 
 Marylebone, South wark, Thames, Westminster, Wox-ship- 
 street ; and the amount of Fees, Penalties, and Forfeitures, 
 levied and received by the Metropolitan Police in one year 
 is about 10,000Z. The expense of the Force is defrayed by 
 an assessment limited to 8d in the pound on the parish 
 rates, the deficiency being made up by the Treasury. 
 
 The Metropolitan Police Force, consisted, in 1855, of 5735 
 men. The men are paid at various rates, averaging 18s. a- 
 weekjwith clothing and 40 lbs. of coal weekly to each manied 
 man all the year ; 40 lbs. weekly to each single man during 
 six months, and 20 lbs, weekly during the remainder of the 
 year. 
 
 Before 1829, when the present excellent Police Force (for 
 which London is wholly indebted to Sir Robert Peel) was 
 first introduced (pursuant to 10 George IV., c. 44), the 
 watchmen, familiarly called " Charlies," who guarded the 
 streets of London, were often incompetent and feeble old men, 
 totally unfitted for their duties. The Police is now com- 
 posed of young and active men, and the Force that has proved 
 perfectly effective for the metropolis (having saved it more 
 than once from Chartist and other rioters, and from calamities 
 such as befel Bi-istol in 1831) has since been introduced with 
 equal success nearly throughout the kingdom. The number 
 of persons taken into custody by the two Forces, between 
 1844 and 1848 inclusive, amounted to 374,710. The gi'oss 
 total number of robberies, during the same period, amounted 
 to 70,839, the value of the property stolen to 270,945^., and 
 the value of the property recovered to 55,167^., or about a 
 fifth of the property stolen. 
 
 Each Policeman is dressed in blue, and has marked on his 
 coat-collar the number and letter of his division. The City 
 Police marking is in yellow ; the Metropolitan in %c?dte. Each 
 man is furnished with a baton, a rattle, a lantern, an oil-skin 
 cape, and a great-coat. It is estimated that each constable 
 walks from 20 to 25 miles a day. During 2 months out of 3, 
 each constable is on night duty, from 9 at night till 6 in the 
 morning.
 
 XVII. TNNS OF COURT THE TEMPLE. 141 
 
 XVII-INNS OF COURT AND INNS OF CHANCERY. 
 
 INXS OF COURT, "the noblest nm-series of Humanity 
 and Liberty iu the kingdom," are four in number — Inner 
 Temple, Middle Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and Gray's Inn. They 
 are called Inns of Court, from bemg anciently held in the 
 " AulaRegia," or Court of the King's Palace. Their government 
 is vested in "Benchers," consisting of the most successful 
 and distinguished members of the English Bar — a numerous 
 body, " composed of above 30S0 Barristei-s, exclusive of the 
 28 Serjeants-at-Law." Xo person can be called to the bar 
 at any of the Inns of Court before he is 21 years of age, and 
 a standing of 5 years is understood to be I'equired of eveiy 
 member before being called. The members of the several 
 Universities, &c., may be called after 3 years' standing. Every 
 student may, if he choose, dine in the Hall every day diuing 
 term. A bottle of \s-ine is allo'\\'ed to each mess of four. 
 
 The TEMPLE is a liberty or district, di\-ided into the 
 Inner Temple and Middle Temple. It lies between Fleet- 
 street and the Thames, and "was so called from the Knights 
 Templai', who made their first London habitation in Holborn, 
 in Ills, and removed to Fleet-street, or the Xew Temple, 
 in 11 S4. Spenser alludes to this London locality in his 
 beautiful Prothalamion : — 
 
 " those hricky to-wers 
 The v.liich on Thames' broad aged back doe ride, 
 Where now the studious lawyers have their bowers, 
 There whilom wont the Templar Knights to bide, 
 Till they decayed through pride." 
 
 At the do\%Tifall of the Templars, in 1313, the Xew Temple 
 in Fleet-street was given by Edward II. to Aymer de Valence, 
 Earl of Pembroke, whose tomb, in Westmiuster Abbey, has 
 called forth the eulogistic criticism of the classic Flaxman. 
 At the Earl of Pembroke's death the property passed to 
 the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, by whom the Inner 
 and Middle Temples were leased to the students of the 
 Common Law, and the Older Temple to Walter Stapleton, 
 Bishop of Exeter, and Lord Treasurer, beheaded by the 
 citizens of London in 1326. Xo change took place when the 
 Temple property passed to the Cro\\Ti, at the dissolution 
 of religious houses, and the students of the Inns of Court 
 remained tenants of the Ci-omii till 1608, when James I. 
 confen-ed the Temple (now sc called) on the Benchers of the 
 two societies and their successors for ever. There are two 
 edifices in the Temple well worthy of a visit : the Temple
 
 142 XVII. — THE TEMPLE. 
 
 CJturch (sei'ving for both Temples. See p. 117), aud the- 
 Middle Temple Hall. 
 
 Middle Temple Hall, 100 feefc long, 42 feet wide, and 47 
 feet liigh, was bnilt in 1572, while Plowden, the well-known 
 jurist, was Treasm^er of the Inn. The roof is the best piece 
 of Elizabethan architecture in London, and will well repay 
 inspection. The screen, in the Renaissance style, is said to 
 Lave been formed in exact imitation of the Strand front of 
 old Somerset House, but this is a vulgar error, like tho 
 tradition which relates that it was made of the spoils of the 
 Spanish Armada, the records of the Society proving that it 
 was set up thirteen years before the Armada put to sea. 
 Here are marble busts of Lords Eldon and Stowell,byBehnes- 
 The portraits are chiefly copies, and not good. The exterior 
 was cased with stone, in Avretched taste, in 1757. We first 
 hear of Shakspeare's Twelfth Night in connexion with its 
 performance in this fine old Hall. 
 
 The principal entrance to the Jliddlc Temple is by a 
 heavy red-brick front in Fleet-street with stone dressings, 
 built, in 1684, by Sir C. Wren, in place of the old portal 
 which Sir Amias Paulet, while Wolsey's prisoner in the 
 gate-house of the Tetnple, " had re-edified very sumptuously, 
 garnishing the same," says Cavendish, "on the outside- 
 thereof, with cardinal's hats and arms, and divers other 
 devices, in so glorious a sort, that he thought thereby to 
 have appeased his old unkind displeasure." The New Paper 
 Buildings, to tlie rivei', built from the designs of Sydney 
 Smirke, A.R. A., are in excellent taste, recalling the " bricky 
 towers" of Spenser's Prothalamion, Inner T'emple Hall was 
 refaced and repaii-ed by Sir Robert Smirke while Jekyll, the 
 wit, was Treasurer of the Inn, and certainly Sir Robert has 
 made a dull joke of the restoration. 
 
 Sliakspeare has made the Temple Gardens — a fine open 
 space, fronting the Thames — the place in whch the dis- 
 tinctiye badges (the white rose and red rose) of the houses 
 of York and Lancaster were first assumed by their respective 
 partisans. 
 
 " SuffoU:. "Within tlie Temple Hall we were too loud ; 
 The garden here is more convenient. 
 
 * * «= * * * 
 
 " Plantagenet. Let him that is a true-born gentleman, 
 And stands upon the honour of his birth, 
 If he suppose tliat I have pleaded tnitli, 
 From off this brier pluck a white rose with me. 
 
 " Somerset. Let him that is no coward, nor no flatterer,. 
 But dare maintain the party of the truth, 
 Pluck a red rose from oft" this thorn with me.
 
 XVII. LI.SC0L>-'S INN. 143 
 
 " Plantagenet. Hath not thy rose a canker, Somerset? 
 "Sovierset. Hath not thy rose a thorn, Plantagenet ? 
 
 " Wariokl:. This brawl to-day, 
 
 Grown to this faction in the Temple Gardens, 
 Shall send, between the red rose and the white, 
 A thousand souls to death and deadly night.' 
 
 Sholsjyeare, First Part of Henrj YI., Act ii., sc.4. 
 
 It -R-ould now be impossible to revive the scene in the sup- 
 posed place of its origin, for such is the smoke and foul air 
 of London, that the commonest and hardiest kind of rose 
 has long ceased to put forth a bud in the Temple Gardens. 
 The Temple is walled in on every side, and protected witli 
 gates. There is no poor-law within its precinct ; and it is 
 said that the Temple Church, though it possesses a font, is the 
 only church in which a chiisteniug never took place. This, 
 however, is only a -s-ulgar error. The Cloisters, adjoining the 
 Temple Church, v/ere rebuilt by Sk- Christopher "Wren for 
 students to walk in, and put cases in law for the considei-a- 
 tion of one another. In Xo. 1, Inner-Temple-lane (on the 
 first floor), on your right as you descend the lane. Dr. Johnson 
 had chambers, and here Boswell paid his first visit after his 
 memorable introdiiction to him at Tom Davies's. In Xo. 2, 
 Brick-court, Middle-Temple-laue, up two pair of stairs, for 
 so Mr. Filby, his tailor, clcscribes him, hved and died Oliver 
 Cioldsmith : his rooms were on the right hand as you ascend 
 the staircase. The great Earl of Mansfield, when Mr. Murray, 
 had chambei'S in Xo. 5, King s-Bench-walk, 
 
 LIXCOLX'S IXX is an Inn of Court, with two Inns of 
 Chancery attached, Fv.rnhaVs Inn and Thavies' Inn, and so 
 called after Heniy de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln (d. 1312), whose 
 to^^^l-house, or inn, occupied a considerable portion of the 
 present Inn of Court, which bears both his name and arms, 
 and whose monument in old St. Paul's was one of the state- 
 liest in the church. The Gatehouse of brick in Chancery-lane 
 (the oldest part of the existing building) was built by Sir 
 Thomas Loveil, and bears the date upon it of 1.518. The 
 chambers adjoining are of a somewhat later period, and it is to 
 this part perhaps that Fuller alludes when he says that — " He 
 [Ben Jonson] helped in the building of the new stiiicture of 
 Lincoln's Inn, when, having a trowel in one hand, he had a 
 book in his pocket." In Xo. 21, in the south angle of the 
 gi'eat com-t leading out of Chancery-lane, formerly called the 
 Gatehouse-coui-t, but now Old-buildings, and in the apart- 
 ments on the left hand of the gi'ound-floor, Oliver Cromwell's 
 secretary, Thurloe, had chambers from 164.5 to 1659. Crom- 
 well must often have been here ; and here, by the merest
 
 144 XVII. — Lincoln's inn. 
 
 accident, long after Thurloe's death, the Thurloe Papers 
 were accidentally discovered, concealed in a false ceiling. 
 
 Lincohi's Inn Chapel, in the Perpendicular style of 
 Gothic architecture, but much defaced, was built by 
 Inigo Jones, and consecrated on Ascension Day, 1623, Dr. 
 Donne preaching the consecration sermon. The Roman 
 Doric pilasters, creeping up the sides of the bastard Gothic 
 of the crypt, deserve attention. The stained glass windows 
 (very good for the period) were executed "by Mr. Hall, a 
 glass-painter, in Fetter-lane, and in point of colour are as 
 rich as the richest Decorated glass of the best period." 
 Some of the figures will repay attention. The windows 
 on the S. side are filled with the Twelve Apostles ; on the 
 N. by Moses and the Prophets, St. John the Baptist and 
 St. Paul. The St. John the Baptist was executed, as an in- 
 scription in the window records, at the expense of William 
 Noy (d. 1634), the famous Attorney-General of Charles I. 
 The crypt beneath the chapel on open arches, like the cloisters 
 in the Temple, was built as a place for the students and 
 lawyers "to walk in and talk and confer their learnings." 
 The Roimd part of the Temple Church was long employed 
 for a similar purpose. Butler and Pepys allude to this 
 custom. Here were buried Alexander Brome, the Cavalier 
 song-writer ; Secretaiy Thurloe ; and William Prynne, the 
 Puritan, who wrote against the " uuloveliness of love locks." 
 The inscription on Prynne's grave was obliterated when 
 Wood drew up his Athenpe Oxouiensos. 
 
 Lincoln's Inn Hall and Library, on the E. side of 
 Lincoln's-Inn-fields (Pliilip Hardwick, R.A., architect), is 
 a noble sti'ucture in the Tudor stylo, built, 1843-45, of red 
 brick with stone dressings. The Hall is 120 feet long, 
 4-5 feet wide, and 62 feet high, with a roof of carved oak. 
 The Library is 80 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 44 feet high. 
 The amount of the contract was 55,000^., but the total cost 
 has not yet transpired. Observe. — In the Hall, Hogarth's 
 picture of Paul before Felix, painted for the Benchers on the 
 recommendation of the great Lord Mansfield, as the appro- 
 priation of a legacy to the Inn of 200Z. ; statue of Lord 
 Erskine, by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A, Observe in Drawing- 
 room, d'c, portraits of Sir Matthew Hale, by Wnght ; Lord 
 Chancellor Bathurst, by Sir N. Dance; and Sir William Grant, 
 Master of the Rolls, by Harlowe. The Library contains 
 the unique fourth volume of Prynne's Records, for which 
 the Society paid 335^. at the Stowe sale in 1849; and the 
 rich collection of Books and MSS., the bequest of Sir 
 Matthew Hale, " a treasux'e/' says Hale, in his will, " that are
 
 XVII. — gray's inx. 145 
 
 not fit for every man's vie'.v," The Court of Chancery sits 
 in "Term Time" at Westminster; during the '•'Vacation" 
 in Lincoln's Inn Old Hall, a mean building near the Chapel. 
 
 Lincohi's Inn New Sqtiare (built on Little Lincoln's-Inn- 
 fields) forms no part of the Inn of Court called Lincoln's 
 Inn. 
 
 GEAY'S IXX is an Inn of Court, with two Inns of 
 Chancery attached, Staph Inn and Barnard's Inn, and is 
 so called after Edmund, Loi'd Gray of AVilton, of the time of 
 Henry VII. The Hall was built in 1560, and the Gardens 
 first planted about 1600. The gi-eat Lord Bm^ghley and the 
 great Lord Bacon, who dates the dedication of his Essays 
 '■'from my chamber at Graies Inn, this 30 of Januarie, 1597/' 
 are the chief worthies of the Inn. Bradshaw, who sat as 
 i)resident at the trial of Charles I., was a bencher of the Inn. 
 
 Grays Inn Walks, or Gray's Inn Gardens, were in Charles 
 II. 's time, and the days of the Tatler and Spectator, a 
 fashionable promenade on a summer evening. The great 
 Lord Bacon is said to have planted some of the trees, but 
 none now exist coeval with his time. As late as 1754 there 
 was still in the gardens an octagonal seat, erected by Lord 
 Bacon when Solicitor-General, to his friend Jeremiah 
 Eettenham, of this Inn. The principal entrance from 
 Holborn was by Fulwood's-rents, then a fashionable loca- 
 lity', now the squalid habitation of the poorest people of 
 the Pai'ish of St. Andrew. "Within Gray's Inn Gate, next 
 Gray's Inn Lane," Jacob Touson first kept shop. The first 
 turning on the right (as you walk from Holborn up Gray's- 
 Inn-lane) is Fox-coiui;, in which, on the 16th of January, 
 1696-7, at 6 o'clock in the morning, the Countess of Maccles- 
 field was delivered, wearing a mask all the while, of Richard 
 Savage, the poet. The only toast ever publicly drank by the 
 Society of Gray's Inn is, " To the glorious, pious, and 
 immortal memory of Queen Elizabeth." 
 
 The IXXS OF CHAXCERY, attached to the four Inns 
 of Court, are nine in number. To the Inner Temple belonged 
 Clifford's Inn, Clement's Inn, and Lyon's Inn ; to the Middle 
 Temple, New Inn and Strand Inn ; to lincohi's Inn, Furnival's 
 Inn and Thavies' Inn; and to Gray's Inn, Staple Inn and 
 Barnard's Inn. They have now little or no connexion with 
 the Inns of Couii;. 
 
 Harrison, the regicide, was a clerk in the office of Thomas 
 Houlker, an attorney in Clifford's Inn. 
 
 Justice Shallow was a student of Clement's Inn. 
 
 L
 
 146 XYii. — Clement's inn. 
 
 " SJudlow. I was once of Clement's Inn ; where I tliink tlioy will talk 
 of mad Shallow yet. 
 
 " Silence. You were called lusty Shallow then, cousin. 
 
 " Shalloiv. By the mass, I was called anything; and I would have 
 done anything indeed, and roundly too. There was I and Little John 
 Doit of Staftbrdshire, and Black George Barnes of Staffordshire, and 
 Francis Pickbone and Will Squele, a Cotswold man; you had not four 
 such swinge-bucklers in all the Inns of Court again. 
 
 "Shallow. Nay, she must be old ; she cannot choose but be old ; certain 
 she's old, and had Kobin Nightwork by old Kightwork, before I came 
 to Clement's Inn. 
 
 ******** 
 
 "Shalloiv. I remember at Milc-end-greeu(when I lay at Clement's Inn), 
 I was then Sir Dagonetin Arthur's show. 
 
 ****** -■» « 
 
 "Falstaff. I do remember him at Clement's Inn, like a man made 
 after supper of a cheese-paring." — Shakspeare, Second Part of Henry IV. 
 
 ''WithoAvt St. Clement's Inn back dore, as soon as you 
 come up the steps and owt of tliat house and dore on jo-af 
 left hand two payre of stayi^es, into a little passage right before 
 you," lived Wenceslaus Hollar, the engraver. The black 
 figure kneeling in the garden of Clement's Inn was presented 
 to the Inn by Holies, Earl of Clare, but when or by what 
 earl no one has told us. It was brought from Italy, and is 
 said to be of bronze. 
 
 William Weare, murdered by Thurtell, at Gill's-hill, in 
 Hertfordshire, lived at No. 2 in Lyon's Inn. 
 
 " They cut his throat from ear to ear, 
 His brains they battered in ; 
 His name was Mr. William Weare, 
 He dwelt in Lyon's Inn." 
 
 Contemporary Ballad, attrihuted to Theodore HooJ:. 
 
 Isaac Reed (d. 1807) had chambers at No. 11, Staple Inn, 
 Holborn. Here (in Reed's chambers) Steevens corrected 
 the proof sheets of his edition of Shakspeare. He used to 
 leave his house at Hampstead at 1 in the morning, and walk 
 to Staple Inn. Reed, who went to bed at the usual hour, 
 allowed his facetious fellow-commentator a key to the cham- 
 bers, so that Steevens stole quietly to his proof sheets, 
 without, it is said, disturbing the repose of his friend. 
 
 The yearly rental of the Inns and Court of Chancery is in round 
 numbers as follows : — 
 
 Lincohi's Inn 
 
 . . £33,329 
 
 j Clement's Inn 
 
 1,653 
 
 Inner Temple . 
 
 , 25,676 
 
 1 Clifford's Inn . 
 
 818 
 
 Gray's Inn . 
 
 . . 16,035 1 
 
 1 Lyon's luu 
 
 . . 423 
 
 3Iiddle 'I'emple 
 
 12,640 
 
 New Inn . 
 
 1,646 
 
 Furnival's Inn 
 
 . . 4,386 j 
 
 Sergeant's Inn 
 
 1,600 
 
 Staple Inn 
 
 2,553 ' 
 
 
 
 Barnard's Inn . 
 
 . . 1,031 ! 
 
 
 £101,790 
 
 Morning Chronicle, March 1, 1854.
 
 XVIII. — NEWGATE — BRIDEWELL. 147 
 
 XVIII.-PRISONS, PENITENTIARIES, AND PLACES 
 OF PUBLIC EXECUTION. 
 
 XEVrGATE, in the Old Bailey, is a prison appertaining 
 to the city of London and county of Middlesex, formerly 
 for felons and debtors : since 1815 (when Whitecross-street 
 Prison was built) for felons only, and is now used as the gaol 
 for the confinement of prisonei's from the metropolitan 
 counties, preparatory to their trial at the Centi-al Criminal 
 €om^t in the Old Bailey. It is the oldest prison in London, 
 was so called because it was the tower of a gate of the same 
 name, and has given its name as a common name for all 
 prisons, as BricUi'sell has done for all houses of correction, 
 and Bedlam for all houses in which lunatics are confined. 
 The present edifice was designed by George Dance, the 
 architect of the Mansion House, and the first stone laid by 
 Alderman Beckford, 1770. The works advanced but slowly, 
 for in 1780, when the old prison was burnt to the ground in 
 the Lord George Gordon riots of that year, the new prison 
 was only in part completed. More rapid progi-ess was made 
 in consequence of this event, and on Dec. 9th, 1783, the first 
 execution took place before its walls. This was the first 
 execution at Newgate, the last at Tyburn occuriing on the 
 Tth of the preceding month. The solitaiy or separate system 
 is not in use in Xewgate, and cannot, it is said, be introduced 
 without a complete alteration of the design and structure of 
 the prison. For the year 1845, the total number of prisoners 
 committed to Xewgate for trial was 2581 : of that number 
 1960 wei'e convicted, and 621 were acqiiitted. The prison, 
 it is said, does not afibrd proper accommodation for more 
 than 400 prisoners, but is often made to contain before the 
 meeting of the sessions as many as 1000. Here, in the prison 
 he had emptied and set in flames. Lord George Goi-don, the 
 leader of the riots of 1780, died (1793) of the gaol distemper, 
 and in front of this prison Bellingham was executed (1812) 
 for the mui'der of Mr. Perceval, the Prime Minister. Ad- 
 mission to inspect the interior is granted by the Secretary of 
 State for the Home Department, the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs. 
 Observe. — Opposite tliis prison, No. 68, Old Bailey, the resi- 
 dence of Jonathan Wild, the famous thief and thief-taker ; 
 immediately behind his house is a good specimen of the old 
 wall of London. 
 
 BRIDEWELL. A city prison, situated in Bridge-street, 
 Blackfriars, immediately behind the church of St. Bride, 
 
 L 2
 
 148 XVIII. — HORSEMOXGER-LANE GAOL. 
 
 Fleet-street. It derives its name from a manor or bouse, 
 presented to the City of London by Edward VI., after a 
 sermon by Bishop Ridley, -who begged it of the King as a 
 Workhouse for the poor, and a House of Correction " for 
 the strumpet and idle person, for the rioter that consumeth 
 all, and for the vagabond that will abide in no place." The 
 prison is calculated to accommodate, in single cells, 70 male 
 and 30 female prisoners. The sentences vary from three 
 days to three months ; the average length of confinement 
 being thirty days. All prisoners committed are under sum- 
 mary convictions of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, together 
 ■with refractory apprentices committed by the City Chamber- 
 lain. The employment of prisonex's is as follows : — Male 
 prisoners, sentenced to and fit for haixl labour, are employed 
 on the tread wheel, by which corn is ground for the supply 
 of the three branches of the establishment. Bridewell, Beth- 
 lehem, and the House of Occupations. Prisoners under 
 fourteen years of age, with others who are unfit for the wheel, 
 or who have not been sentenced to hard labour, are employed 
 in picking cou' and in cleaning the wards. A poi'tion of the 
 females are employed in washing, mending, and getting up 
 the linen and bedding of the prisoners, and the others in 
 picking junk and cleaning their side of the prison. The 
 punishments for breaches of prison i-ules are diminution of 
 food (with or without solitaiy confinement, as the case may 
 be), and irons in cases of a violent and refractory naturae. 
 There is no whipping for offences committed within the prison. 
 Observe. — Over chimney in Court-room lai'ge picture by Hol- 
 bein, representing Edward VI. delivering the Charter of 
 Endowment to the Mayor. 
 
 " Holbein has placed his ovrn head in one comer of the pictnre. 
 Vertue has engi-aved it. This picture it is believed was not completed 
 by Holbein, both he and the King dying immediately after the dona- 
 tion." — Horace Walpole. 
 
 The scene of the 4th plate of Hogarth's Harlot's Progress 
 is laid in Bridewell. 
 
 HORSEMOXGER LANE GAOL, Hoesemoxger Lake, 
 SouTHWAEK, is the county gaol for Surrey. Here Mr. Leigh 
 Hunt was confined for two years (1812-14) for a libel on 
 the Prince Regent in the Examiner newspaper, and here 
 (Nov. 13th, 1849) Mr. and Mrs. Manning were hung. The 
 place of execution is the top of the prison. '•' I was a witness," 
 says Mr. Chai^les Dickens, " of the execution ©f the Mannings 
 at Horsemonger-lane. I went there with the intention of 
 observing the crowd gathered to behold it, and I had excel- 
 lent opportunities of doing so, at intervals all through the
 
 XVIII. — EXECUTIONS. 149 
 
 night, and coutiuuously from daybreak until after the spectacle 
 was over. I believe that a slight so inconceivably awful as 
 the wickedness and levity of the immense crowd collected at 
 that execution could be imagined by no man, and could be 
 presented in no heathen land under the sun. The horrors of 
 the gibbet and of the crime which brought the wretched 
 murderei-s to it, faded in my mind before the atrocious 
 bearing, looks and language, of the assembled spectators. 
 When I came upon the scene at midnight, the shrillness of 
 the cries and howls that were raised from time to time, 
 denotuig that they came from a concourse of boys and girls 
 already assembled in the best places, made my blood run 
 cold. As the night went on, screeching, and laughing, and 
 yelling in strong choi'us of parodies on Xegro melodies, with 
 substitutions of ' Mrs. Manning ' for ' Susannah ' and the like 
 were added to these. When the day dawned, thieves, low 
 prostitutes, ruffians and vagabonds of every kind, flocked 
 on to the ground, with every variety of oflFensive and foul 
 behaviom-. Fightings, faintings, whistlings, imitations of 
 Punch, brutal jokes, tumultuous demonstrations of indecent 
 delight wlien swooning women were dragged out of the crowd 
 by the police with their dresses disordered, gave a new zest 
 to the general entertainment. When the sun rose brightly 
 — as it did — it gilded thousands upon thousands of upturned 
 faces, so inexpressibly odious in their bi-utal mirth or cal- 
 lousness, that a man had cause to feel ashamed of the shape 
 he wore, and to shrink from himself, as fashioned in the 
 image of the Devil. When the two miserable creatures who 
 attracted all this ghastly sight about them were turned 
 quivering into the air, there was no more emotion, no more 
 pity, no more thought that two immortal souls had gone to 
 judgment, no more restraint in any of the previous obsce- 
 nities, than if the name of Christ had never been heard in 
 this world, and there were no belief among men but that they 
 pei'ished like the beasts. I have seen, habitually, some of 
 the worst sources of general contamination and con-uption 
 in this country, and I think there are not many phases of 
 London life that could surprise me. I am solemnly con- 
 vinced that nothing that ingenuity could devise to be done 
 in this city, in the same compass of time, could work such 
 ruin as one public execution, and I stand astounded and 
 appalled by the wickedness it exhibits. I do not believe that 
 any community can prosper where such a scene of horror 
 and demoralisation as was enacted this moi-ning outside 
 Horsemonger-lane Graol is presented at the very doors of 
 good citizens, and is passed by, unkno^^Ti or forgotten."
 
 150 XYIII. — PRISONS. 
 
 MILLBAXK PRISOX is a mass of brickwork equal to c. 
 fortress, on the left bank of the Thames, close to Yauxhall 
 Bridge; erected on ground bought in 1799 of the Marquis of 
 Salisbury, and established pursuant to 52 Geo. III., e. ii, 
 passed Aug. 20th, 1812. It was designed by Jeremy Bentham, 
 to Avhom the fee-simple of the ground was conveyed, and is 
 said to have cost the enormous sum of half a million sterling. 
 The external walls form an ii'regular octagon, and enclose 
 upwards of sixteen acres of land. Its ground-plan resembles 
 a wheel, the governor's house occupying a circle in the centre^ 
 from which i-adiate six piles of building, terminating exter- 
 nally in towers. The ground on which it stands is raised but 
 little above the river, and was at one time considered 
 unhealthy. It was first named " The Penitentiary," or 
 " Penitentiary House for London and Middlesex," and was 
 called " The Millbank Prison," pursuant to 6 & 7 Victoria, 
 c. 26. It is the largest prison in London, and contains 
 accommodation for 1120 prisonere ; the number of inmates 
 averaging about 700. Every male and female convict sen- 
 tenced to transportation in Great Britain is sent to Miilbank, 
 previous to the sentence being executed. Here they remain 
 about three months under the close inspection of three 
 inspectors, at the end of which time the inspectors report to 
 the Home Secretary, and recommend the place of transpor- 
 tation. So far as the accommodation of the prison permits, 
 the separate system is adopted. The number of pei^sons in 
 Great Britain and Ireland condemned to transportation every 
 year amovmts to about 4000. Admission to inspect — order 
 from the Secretaiy of State for the Home Depai'tment, or 
 the Directors of Government Prisons, 25, Parliament-street,. 
 Westminster. 
 
 THE MODEL PPtlSOX, P£XTO^^VILLE, owes its origin to 
 Sir James Graham's dispatch of December, 1842 ; established 
 pursuant to 5 & 6 Vict., sess. 2, c. 29, for the detention of 
 convicts condemned to and intended for transportation. The 
 prison contains 1000 separate cells. The inmates are detained 
 for two years, and are taught useful trades before being sent 
 abroad ; a most merciful and charitable i^rovision, which it 
 is to be hoped, may prove sviccessful. The cost of each, 
 prisoner is about 15;^'. a week. The fii'st stone was laid, 1840, 
 and the bixilding completed in 1842. The total cost was 
 84,168?. 12s. 2d. 
 
 THE HOUSE OF CORPtECTIOX, Cold Bath Fields, will 
 hold about 1200 prisoners, and is under the direction of the 
 Middlesex Magistrates and the Secretaiy of State for the
 
 XIX. — EXHIBITIONS. 151 
 
 Home Department. There is a similar House of Correction 
 at Westminster. The principal prisons for clebtoi-s are The 
 Queen's Bench in the Borough of Lambeth, and the Debtors 
 Prison, so called in Whitecross-street. The famous Fleet 
 Prison was abolished during the reign of her present Majesty. 
 
 CITY OF LONDON PRISON, Holloway (Mr. Bunning, 
 Architect,) is a castellated building of good mediaeval 
 character, erected 1853 — 5, to contain the class of prisoners 
 formerly committed to Giltspur Street House of Correction 
 and the House of Correction for women at the Borough 
 Compter : while, in the same way, the New House of Cor- 
 rection at Wandsworth has relieved the Surrey or Horse- 
 monger Lane Gaol. 
 
 XIX.-PERMANENT FREE EXHIBITIONS. 
 
 BRITISH MUSEUM, in Great Russell Street, Blooms- 
 bury ; built 1823-54 from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke, 
 but completed by his younger brother Sydney Smirke, A.R.A. 
 The cost of the building down to 1851 amounts to 800,000?. 
 The sculpture in the pediment is by Sir Richard Westmacott. 
 
 The Museum is open to public view on Mondays, Wednes- 
 days and Fridays, from 10 till 4 during January, February, 
 November and December; from 10 till 5 during March, 
 April, September and October ; and from 10 till 6 during 
 May, June, July and August. Children under 8 years of age 
 are not admitted. 
 
 The Museum is closed from the 1st to the 7th of January, 
 the 1st to the 7tli of May, and the 1st to the 7th of 
 September, inclusive, on Ash Wednesday, Good Fi-iday, and 
 Christmas Day, and also on any special fast or thanksgiving 
 day, ordered by Authority. 
 
 The ReadiiKj Room is open evciy day, except on Sundays, 
 on Ash- Wednesday, Good-Friday, Christmas-day, and on any 
 fast or thanksgiving days, ordered by Authority : except also 
 between the 1st and 7th of Januaiy, the 1st and 7th of May, 
 and the 1st and 7th of September, inclusive. The Room is 
 open fi-om9till 4 dm-ing November, December, January, and 
 February ; from 9 till 5 during September, October, March 
 and April ; and from 9 till 6 during May, June, July and 
 August, (except Saturdays, and then at 5). Pei'sons desirous 
 of admission are to send in their applications in writing 
 (specifying their christian and siu-names, rank or profession, 
 and places of abode), to the Principal Librarian, or, in his 
 absence, to the Secretary, or, in his absence, to the senior 
 Under Librarian, who will either immediately admit such
 
 152 XIX. — BRITISH MUSEUM. 
 
 persons, or lay their apiDlications before tlie next meeting of 
 the tinistees. Every person applying is to produce a recom- 
 mendation satisfactory to a trustee or an officer of the house. 
 Applications defective in this respect Vv'ill not be attended to. 
 Permission will in general be gi-anted for six months ; and at 
 the expiration of this terra fresh application is to be made for 
 a renewal. The tickets given to readers are not transferable, 
 and no person can be admitted without a ticket. Persons 
 under 18 years of age are not admissible. Artists are ad- 
 mitted to study in the Galleries of Sculpture, between the 
 hours of 9 and 4, every day, except Saturday. 
 
 The Print Room is closed on Saturdays. 
 
 The Medal and Print Rooms can be seen only by few 
 persons at a time, and by particvdar permission. 
 
 The British Museum originated in an offer to Parliament, 
 found in the will of Sir Hans Sloane (d. 1753), of the 
 whole of his collection for 20,000^.-30,000/!. less than it was 
 said to have cost him. The offer was at once accepted, and 
 an Act passed in 1753, "for the purchase of the Museum or 
 Collection of Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., and of the Harleian 
 Collection of MSS., and procuring one general repository for 
 the better reception and more convenient use of the said 
 Collection, and of the Cottonian Library, and additions 
 thereto." In pursuance of this Act the sum of 300,000?. 
 was raised by a Lottery ; 20,000?. paid for the Sloane 
 Museum, 10,000?. for the Harleian Collection of MSS., and 
 10,250?. to the Earl of Halifax for Montague House in 
 Bloomsbuiy — a mansion at that time perfectly well adapted 
 for all tlie objects of the Mviseum. The collections 
 increasing, new rooms were added to receive the Egyptian 
 Antiquities obtained in 1801. A new British Museum (the 
 present) was commenced in 1823, from the designs of Sir 
 Robert Smirke ; but the building is not yet finished. The 
 government of the Muserun is vested in trustees, and the 
 chief Gifts and Bequests include the Cotton MSS. ; a col- 
 lection of Books, and the interest of 7000?., bequeathed by 
 Major Edwardes ; the Royal Library of the Kings of 
 England ; Garrick's Collection of Old Plays ; Dr. Birch's 
 Books and MSS.; Thomas Tyrwhitt's Books; Rev. C. 
 Cracherode's Books, Prints, &c., valued at 40,000?. ; Sir "Wil- 
 liam Musgrave's Books, MSS., and Prints ; Payne Knight's 
 Books, Bronzes, and Drawings; Sir Joseph Banks's Books 
 and Botanical Specimens; Library formed by George IIL ; and 
 Mr. Grenville's Library. The Additional Purchases include 
 Sir William Hamilton's Collection, 8400?. ; Townley Marbles, 
 28,200?. ; Phigalian Marbles 19,000?. ; Elgin Marbles
 
 XIX. — BRITISH MUSEUM. 
 
 153 
 
 GROUND PLAN OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 
 
 A Waiting Room. 
 
 B Principal Staircase. 
 
 C Print Room. 
 
 D D, &c. Officers' Rooms. 
 
 E E Lobbies. 
 
 E' North-east Entrance Lobby. 
 
 E" !N'orth-west Entrance Lobby_ 
 
 F North-east Staircase, 
 
 F' North-west Staircase. 
 
 G Dusting Room. 
 
 H Sorting Room. 
 
 I For Washing Hands. 
 
 J Clerks' Room. 
 
 K Trustees' Room. 
 
 L Phigalian Gallery.
 
 154 XIX. — EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 35,0007. ; Dr. Barney's MSS., 13,5007. ; LansdoAvne MSS., 
 49257. ; Arundel MSS., 35597. The reader may purchase a 
 synopsis of the contents of the Miiseum shown to the public, 
 in the Hall, as you enter, price one sliilliag. This synopsis 
 has been compiled ujider the direction of the timstees, and 
 follows objects locally. In this work it has been thought 
 better to classify the principal objects of interest. 
 
 Tlie Egyptian Antiquities are novv' (1854) in three large 
 saloons, and arranged in chronological order. The largest 
 saloon contains the heavier objects, such as Sai^cophagi, 
 Columns, Statues, Tablets of the Dead, Sepulchral Ui'ns, 
 &c. This collection, the finest in Europe for colossal 
 antiquities, comprises about GOOO objects. Observe. — Two- 
 Lions Couchant, in red granite, (1 and 34), '•' perfect 
 models of Architectonic Scvilpture." — Waxigen. Colossal 
 Head, 9 feet high, of Rameses II., but better known as 
 the You.ng Memnon, fou.nd in the Memnonivim at Thebes, by 
 Belzoni, and deservedly regarded as the most celebrated monu- 
 ment of Egyptian art in any European collection. Colossal 
 Head of a king wearing the pshent, discovered by Belzoni 
 in Karnak. Statvie in red granite of Menepthah 11. Colossal 
 Ram's Head. The chest of the Sarcophagus of the monarch 
 Her-necht-hebi, (supposed to be either Amyrtaeus or Nectabes,) 
 of the Twenty-eighth Dynasty, found, according to the French, 
 who first discovered it, in the court-yard of the Mosque of 
 S. Athanasius, at Alexandria. Dr. Clarke, the traveller, 
 fancied that this was the identical sarcophagus which once 
 contained the body of Alexander the Great. Colossal 
 Scai-abosus. The Rosetta Stone, containing three inscriptions 
 of the same import, namely, one in hieroglyphics, another 
 in a written character called demotic or enchoreal, and a 
 third in the Greek language. This celebrated stone fur- 
 nished the late Dr. Young with the first clue towards the 
 decypliering of the ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was 
 found (1799) by M. Bouchard, a French officer of engineers, 
 in digging the foimdation of a house, near the Rosetta mouth 
 of the Nile, among the remains of an ancient temple dedi- 
 cated by Pharaoh ISTecho to the god Kecho, and came into 
 the hands of the English by the sixteenth article of the 
 capitulation of Alexandiia, which required that all objects of 
 art collected by the French Institute in Egypt should be 
 delivered up to the English. The stone itself is a piece of 
 black basalt, much mutilated, about 3 feet long, by 2 feet 
 5 inches bi'oad, and from 10 to 12 inches thick, and contains 
 a decree set \ip in the reign of Ptolemaus Y. (Epiphanes,) 
 probably about the year B.C. 196. The principal historical
 
 XIX. — ASSYRIAN MARBLES. 155 
 
 facts mentioued are the birth of the Kiug B.C., 209 ; tho 
 troubles iu Egypt, and the decease of his father Philopator ; 
 the attack of Antiochus by sea and land ; the siege of Lyco- 
 polis ; the inundation of the Xile, B.C., 198j the chastisement 
 of the revolters ; the coronation of the King at Memphis, 
 B.C. 196 ; and the issue of the decree itself the following 
 day. — This part of the Museum contains 102 glass cases, 
 comprising. Deities ; Sacred Animals : small Statues ; House- 
 hold Furniture, and other large objects; objects of Dress 
 and Toilette ; Yases, Lamps, &c. ; Bowls, Cups, &c. ; Vases 
 of Bronze, Agricultural Implements, Viands, &c. ; Fragments 
 of Tombs, Weapons, &c. ; InscxHptions ; Instruments of 
 Writing, Painting, &c. ; Baskets, Tools, Musical Instruments, 
 Play-things. Animal Mummies, Human Mummies, Coffins,, 
 Amulets, Sepulchral Ornaments, &c., many of the greatest 
 cui'iosity, and exhibiting the various modes of em- 
 balming pi-actised by the Egyptians, and the various 
 degrees of care and splendour expended on the bodies of 
 different ranks. Obseire. — Models of Egyptian Boats; 
 Egyptian Wig and Box ; Model of a House, &c. ; Stand 
 ^vith Cooked Waterfowl ; Coffin and Body of Mycerinus from 
 the 3rd Pyramid. 
 
 Assyrian Transept; Nimroud Side-Gallery and Saloon,- 
 Koyunjik Side-Gallery, containing many intei'esting marbles 
 from Nimroud and Khoi-sabad, acquired for this country 
 chieiiy by the indefatigable exertions of Mr. Layard and 
 Colonel Eawlinson, viz. :— Sacred Subjects, Bible Scenes, 
 Scenes representing a Treaty or Submission, Hunting Scenes, 
 IVliscellaneous Slabs and Fragments : all which are placed as 
 near as possible in their original arrangement. Obi^erve. — 
 Colossal statues of Human-headed Lions, and Bulls, and 
 numerous Bassi-relievi representing battle scenes, confer- 
 ences, bull and lion hunts, &c., and all meriting minute 
 attention. The Koyunjik North-Side-Gallery filled with Mr. 
 Layard's collection extends in a continuous series in a 
 straight line to about 300 feet. The Nimroud Obelisk covered 
 ■with small highly finished bas-reliefs, with arrow-headed 
 inscriptions, representing a conquered nation bearing tribute,, 
 animals, &c., to the king of Assyria, is one of tlie most 
 curious objects. 
 
 Etruscan Room, containing a collection of vases discovered 
 m Italy, and knov>n as Etruscan, Graco-Italian, or painted 
 vases. The collection is arranged chronologically, and 
 according to the localities in which the sevei-al antiquities 
 were found. Cases 1 to 5 contain Vases of heavy black ware, 
 some with figiires upon them in bas-relief, and principally
 
 1-56 XIX. — ELGIN MARBLES. 
 
 found at Cervetri or C:cre. Cases 6 and 7 contain the 
 Xolan-Egyptian or Phoenician Vases, with pale backgrounds 
 and figures in a deep reddish maroon colour, chiefly of 
 animals. Cases 8 to 19 contain the early Vases from Vulci, 
 Canino, and the Ponte della Badia, to the north of Rome, 
 with black figures upon red or orange backgrounds, the sub- 
 jects of which are generally mythological. The vases in 
 Cases 20 to 30, executed with more care and finish, are for 
 the most part from Canino and Xoia. Those in the centre 
 of the room, Cases 31 to 55, are of a later style, and chiefly 
 from the province of the Basilicata, to the south of Rome ; 
 their subjects are principally relative to Bacchus. Cases 36 
 to 51 contain Vases from Apulia, resembling in their colour 
 and treatment those of Xola. Cases 5Q to 60 are filled with 
 terra-cottas, principally of Etruscan workmanship. Over 
 the cases are several representations of paintings from the 
 walls of Etruscan Tombs at Tarquinii and Corneto. 
 
 Mgiii Marbles (in the Elgin Saloon). — So called from the 
 Earl of Elgin, Ambassador-Extraordinary to the Poi'te, who, 
 in 1801, obtained two firmans for their removal to Eng- 
 land. Xos. 1 to 160, from the Parthenon at Athens. The 
 numbers now in use are coloured red. But before proceeding 
 to examine these marbles, the visitor will do well to inspect, 
 with care, the two models in the Phigalian Saloon — one, the 
 restored Model of the Parthenon — the other the Model of 
 the Parthenon after the Venetian bombardment, in 1687. 
 He will then, on entering the Elgin Saloon, proceed to the 
 left, and look at Xo. 112, (on the floor)— •' The Capital and 
 a piece of the Shaft of one of the Doric Columns of the Par- 
 thenon." He will by this time have got a pretty complete 
 notion of what the Parthenon was like, and may now proceed 
 to examine the Marbles, which are of four kinds :— 1. Marbles 
 in the East Pediment ; 2. Marbles in the West Pediment ; 
 
 3. The Metopes or groups which occupied the square inter- 
 vals between the raised tablets or triglyphs of the frieze; 
 
 4. The Frieze. The marbles of the tvro Pediments are on 
 .stages above the floor of the Saloon. 
 
 [91 . 92 . 93 . 94 . 95 . 96 . 97 . 9S 
 91. Upper part of the figure of Hyperion rising out of the
 
 XTX. — ELGIN MARBLES. 157 
 
 Sea. His arms are stretched forward, in the act of holdhig 
 the reins of his coursers. 92. Heads of t'.vo of the Horses 
 belonging to the Car of Hyperion. 93. Theseus. 
 
 " The Theseus is a -work of the first order; but the surface is corroded 
 by the weather. The head is in that impaired state that I cannot give 
 an opinion upon it; and the limbs are mutilated. I prefer it to tlie 
 Apollo Belvidere, which, I believe, to be only a copy. It has more ideal 
 beauty than any male statue I know.'" — Fla.cman. 
 
 94. Group of two Goddesses (Ceres and Proserpine) seated. 
 
 95. Statue of Iris, the messenger of Juno. She is repre- 
 sented in quick motion, as if about to commiuiicate to 
 distant regions the birth of Minerva. 96. A Torso of Vic- 
 tory. 97. A group of the three Fates. 98. Head of a 
 Hoi'se (very fine) from the Car of Xight. 
 
 West Pediment, 
 Representing the Contest of Minerfa 
 and Xeptune for tlie Guardianship of Attica. ""^-^.^^^ 
 
 99 . 100 . 101 . 102 . 103 . 104 . 103 . 106 
 
 99. The Ilissus, (statue of a river-god, and^ after the Theseus, 
 the finest in the collection). 100. The Torso of a male 
 figure, supposed to be that of Cecrops, the founder of 
 Athens. 101. Upper part of the head of Minerva, and 
 originally covered -s^dth a bronze helmet, as appears from the 
 holes by which it was fastened to the marble. 102. A por- 
 tion of the chest of the same statue. 103. Upper part of the 
 Torso of iSTeptune. 104. Another fragment of the statue of 
 Minerva. 105. The Torso of Victoria Apteros : the goddess 
 ■was represented driving the Car of i\Iinerva, to receive her 
 into it, after her successful contest with Xeptune. 106. 
 Fragment of a group which originally consisted of Latona, 
 with her two children, Apollo and Diana. The ^fetoj^es 
 (1 — 16, bas-reliefs let into the wall immediately facing you as 
 yovi enter) represent the battle of the Centaurs and Lapithae. 
 The originals are fifteen in number : the sixteenth (Xo. 9) is 
 a cast from the original in the Royal Museum at Paris. 
 The Frieze (17 — 90, a series of bas-reliefs, composing the 
 exterior frieze of the Cella of the Parthenon, and let into 
 the four walls of the present Saloon) represents the solemn 
 procession called the Panathenaca, which took place at 
 Athens, every six years, in honour of Minerva. East End, 
 (17—24), Xos. 20 and 23 are casts. The original of 23 is in
 
 lo8 XIX. — PHIGALIAN MARBLES. 
 
 tlie Eoyal Museum at Paris ; parts, also, of 21 aud 22 are casts. 
 Nortli End, Nos. 25— 4G ; West Eud, Nos. 47—61 ; all but 47 
 are casts; the originals destroyed. South End, N"os. 62 — 90. 
 
 '• We possess in England the most precions examples of Grecian 
 Art. The horses of the Frieze in the Elgin Collection appear to live and 
 move, to roll tlieir eyes, to gallop, prance, and curvet. The veins of 
 their faces and legs seem distended with circulation ; in them are 
 distinguished tlie hardness and decision of hony fonns, from the elas- 
 ticit}' of tendon and the softness of flesh. The beholder is charmed with 
 the deer-like lightness and elegance of their make ; and although the 
 relief is not above an inch from the back ground, and they are so much 
 smaller than nature, we can scarcely suffer reason to persuade us they 
 are not alive." — Flaxman. 
 
 Phir/alian Marbles, (iu the Phigalian Saloon). — 23 bas-reliefs, 
 so called, found iu the ruins of the Temple of Apollo Epi- 
 curius, built on Mount Cotylion, at a little distance from the 
 ancient city of Phigalia in Arcadia. 1 to 11 represent the 
 Battle of the Centaurs and Lapithaj. 12 to 23, the Battle of 
 the Greeks and Amazons. The temple from which they 
 were taken was built by Ictinus, an architect contemporary 
 with Pericles. 24 to 39 are fragments from the same temple. 
 uErjina Marbles. — Over the Phigalian frieze are two pediments 
 of precisely the same form and dimensions as those which 
 decorated the Eastern and "Western Ends of the Temple of 
 Jupiter Panhellenius, iu the island of iEgina. The subject 
 of the western pediment (on the N. side of the room) is 
 supposed to represent the contest between the Greeks and 
 Trojans for the body of Patroclus. Lycian or Xanthian 
 Marbles. — A series of tombs, bas-reliefs, and statvies from the 
 ruined city of Xanthus ; one group formed the ornaments of 
 the Nereid monument of Xanthus — an Ionic peristyle on a 
 basement surrounded with two bands of friezes, representing 
 the conquest of Lycia by the Persians, and the fall of 
 Xanthus as related by Herodotvis. The Harpy Tomb is a 
 curious example of very early art. These marbles, of an 
 earlier date than those of the Parthenon, were discovered 
 and brought to England by Sir Charles Fellows. Bodroum 
 Marbles (in the Phigalian Saloon). — 11 bas-reliefs, brought 
 to England, in 1846, from Bodroum, in Asia Minor, the site 
 of the ancient Halicai-nassus, aud presented to the British 
 Museum by Sir Stratford Canning. They are supposed to have 
 formed part of the Mausoleum or sepulchre, built in the 
 4th year of the 106th Olympiad, B.C. 357, by Artemisia, 
 Queen of Caria, in honour of her husband. King Mausoltis. 
 They were found in a fortress at the entrance of the harbour, 
 having been built into the faces of the exterior and interior 
 walls. This fortress was built by the knights of Rhodes,
 
 XIX. TOVrXLEY 3IARBLE3. 159 
 
 circ. 1400. The stoiy represented is a combat of Amazous 
 aud Greek warriors. 
 
 Toivnley Collection, (so called from Charles Townley, Esq., 
 d. 1810.) by whom they were principally collected. "The 
 ' Townley Marbles ' belong to all periods of art except the most 
 ancient, but the finest statues are probably those of Greek 
 artists during the early times of the Roman empu'e, and are 
 therefore either separate studies, or copies of works by 
 celebrated eai'ly Greek masters. There is no ground for 
 believing, as was formerly imagined, that this or any other 
 English collection, with the exception of the sculptures in 
 the Elgin and Phigalian rooms, contains any fine specimens 
 of the best period of piu-e Greek sculptui'e. The collections 
 in the Elgin and Phigalian rooms are those alone on whose 
 date we can rely ^^-ith undoubting cei-tainty." — W. S. Vaux. 
 Observe among the 83 Terra-cottas, Xos. -4, 7, 8, 12, 14, 20, 22, 
 27, 31, 41, 53, 54. Venus or Dione, found in the baths of 
 Claudius, at Ostia, in 177*3 ; the tip of the nose, the left arm, 
 and the right hand are nevr. Two Colossal Busts of Pallas. 
 Two Colossal Busts of Hercules. Bust of Minerva (No. 16), 
 found near Rome ; the helmet, with two owls and the tip 
 of the nose, ai-e new. Two Marble Vases (Xos. 7 and 9) 
 with Bacchanalian Scenes. Statue of Venus, about 3 feet 
 high, found in 1775, neai' Ostia; the ai-ms are new. Portrait- 
 busts of Homer (very fine), Periander, Pindar, Sophocles, 
 Hippocrates, Epicurus, and Pericles. Bas-rehef (Apotheosis 
 of Homer) from the Colonna Palace. Torso of a Venus 
 (Xo. 20). The celebrated Discobulus or Quoit-thrower 
 (No. 23), found in 1791 in the grounds belonging to Hadrian's 
 villa at Tibur (Tivoli), and supposed to be a copy of the 
 famous bronze statue made by the sculptor Myron : the left 
 hand has been restored. Statue of Hadiian addressing his 
 army. Female Bust (Xo. 12), the lower part of which is 
 enclosed in a flower : — supposed to be Clytie, metamorphosed 
 into a sunflower : — bought at Naples, from tlie Lorrenzano 
 Palace, in 1772. This was Mr. Townley's favourite Mai'ble, 
 and is well known by numerous casts. 
 
 Payne Knir/hfs Bronzes are now deposited in the Bronze 
 Room, abutting from the Egyptian Room. Tlie collection is 
 extremely valuable, but too' minute to be detailed in the 
 narrow compass of a book like this. The Barbcrini or Port- 
 land Vase (9| inches high, 21| inches in cu'cumference), 
 discovered in a sepulchral chamber, about 3 miles from 
 Rome, on the road to Frascati, during the pontificate of 
 Urban VIII. (1623-44). Sir William Hamilton bought it 
 at the sale of the Barberini Libi-ary, and subsequently sold it
 
 160 XIX. — MARBLES. — PORTRAITS. 
 
 to the Duchess of Portland, at whose sale, in 1786, it was 
 bought in, by the famih*, for 1029Z. It is still the property 
 of the Duke of Portland, and has been dei^osited in the 
 Bi'itish Museum since 1810. The ground on which the 
 figures are wrought is of a dark amethj'stine blue — semi- 
 transparent ; but it has not as yet been clearly ascertained 
 what the figures represent. This wonderful vase was smashed 
 to pieces, 7th of February, 1845, by Lloyd, a madman, as 
 is supposed, but has since been Avonderfully restored, so that 
 the injui'ies are scarcely visible. 
 
 Modern Marlles. — Statue of Shakspeare, by JRouliliac 
 (executed for Garrick, the actor, by whom it was bequeathed 
 to the British Museum) ; statue of Sir Joseph Banks, by Sir F. 
 Cliantrey ; of Hon. IMi's. Darner, by Ceraccki. Bust of Mr. 
 Townley, by Nolltkens. Portraits — (suspended on the walls 
 of the Eastern Zoological Galleiy) — 116 in number, and 
 not very good. A few, however, deserve to be mentioned : 
 — Yesalius, by Sir Antonio More. Captain William Dampier, 
 by Murray (both from the Sloane Collection). Sir Eobert 
 Cotton, the founder of the Cottonian Library. Sir "William 
 Cotton, his son, Robert, Earl of Oxford, and Edward, Earl 
 of Oxford (both presented by the Duchess Dowager of 
 Portland). Humphrey AVanley. George Yertue (presented 
 by his widow). Sir Hans Sloane, half-length, by Slaughter. 
 Dr. Birch (bequeathed by himself). Andrew Marvell. 
 Alexander Pope. Matthew Prior, by HucUon, from an original 
 by Richardson. Oliver Cromwell, by Walker (bec[ueathed, 
 1781, by Sir Robert Rich, Bart.; to whose great-grandfather, 
 ]S"athaniel Rich, Esq., then serving as a Colonel of Horse in 
 the Pai'liament Ai-my, it was presented by Cromwell himself). 
 Mary Davis, an inhabitant of Great Saughall in Cheshire, 
 taken 1668, " aHatis 71:" (at the age of 28 art excrescence 
 grew upon her head, like a wen, which continued 30 years, 
 and then grew into two horns, one of which the profile 
 represents). Thomas Britton, the musical small- coal-man, 
 " cetatis 61, 1703," painted by /. Woolaston and fonnerly the 
 propei-ty of Sir Hans Sloane. Miscellaneous Curiosities. — The 
 guinea received by Mr. Pulteney, from Sir Robert Walpole, 
 in discharge of a wager, laid in the House of Commons, 
 respecting the correctness of a quotation from Horace. 
 A gold snuff-box set with diamonds, and ornamented with a 
 miniature portrait of Xapoleon, by whom it was presented, 
 in 1815, to the late Hon. Mrs. Darner. Another, less hand- 
 some, presented by Xapoleon to Lady Holland. Medal 
 Boom. — The Greek coins are arranged in geographical order ; 
 the Roman in chronological : and the Anglo-Saxon, English,
 
 XIX. — BRITISH MUSEUM LIBRARY. 161 
 
 Anglo-Gallic, Scotch, and Iiish coins, and likewise the coins 
 of foreign nations, according to the i-espective countries to 
 which the coins belong; those of each country being kept 
 separate. Romano- British Antiquities. — Mosaic pavement 
 found in excavating for the foundations of the new buildings 
 at the Bank of England. Mosaic Pavement found in digging 
 the foimdation of the Hall of Commerce in Threadneedle- 
 street. The Mediceval Room, now in course of formation, 
 contains the sword of state of the Earldom of Chester, made 
 for Edward V. when Prince of Wales ; and some interesting 
 figure fragments of the fresco decorations in old St. Stephens' 
 Chapel at "Westminster. 
 
 The Library of Printed Boolcs is said to consist of 560,000 
 volumes*, comprising upwards of 725,000 works, taking each 
 separate pamphlet as a separate work. Compared with the 
 great public libi-aries on the Continent, it ranks with those 
 of Vienna, Berlin, and Dresden, but is inferior in number of 
 separate works to those of Munich and Paris. Here is the 
 library of the Kings of England, presented to the nation by 
 George XL, containing exquisite examples of books bound in 
 embroidered velvet for Queen Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., 
 &c. George Ill's Library, consisting of upwards of 80,000 
 volumes, and kept in a separate room, the finest room in 
 the builduig, was given to the nation by George IV., in 1823, 
 and is said to have cost 130,000Z. It is one of the most 
 noble libraries known, remarkable not only for the judicious 
 selection of the works, and the discriminating choice of the 
 editions, but for the bibliographical peculiarities and rarity 
 of the copies. The number of books on large paper is un- 
 iisually great. Among the rai'ities may be mentioned; the 
 earliest printed Bible and the earliest printed book known, 
 commonly called the Mazarine Bible ; supposed to have issued 
 from the press of Gutenberg and Fust, at Mentz, about 1455 
 — it is in Latin and on vellum ; the first printed Psalter, in 
 Latin, on vellum — printed at Mentz, by Fust and Schoeflfer, 
 in 1457; the first book printed with a date, and the first 
 example of printing in colours ; ^sop's Fables — printed at 
 IVIilan, about 1480 ; the first edition of the fii'st Greek classic 
 printed : the first edition of Homer — Florence, 1488 ; for- 
 merly in the possession of the historian De Thou : Virgil — 
 
 * On the 25th of July, 1838, the volumes of printed books in the 
 British Museum being counted one by one, as they stood on the shelves, 
 ■were found to be in round numbers 235,000. Counted in the same 
 manner on the 15th of Dec, 1849, they were found to amount to 435,000. 
 The collection in 1851 consisted of upwards of 460,000 vols., and in July, 
 1853, of 510,110 vols. 
 
 M
 
 162 XIX. — READING ROOM. — MANUSCRIPTS. 
 
 printed fit Veuice, by Aldus, iu 1501; on vellum: the first 
 book printed in Italic types ; and the earliest attempt to 
 produce cheap books : — it belonged to the Gonzaga family, 
 and carries the autogi-aphs of the two Cardinals Ippolito and 
 Ercole, as well as that of Vincenzo Gonzaga, Duke of Mantua. 
 The room by your right on entering the hall contains the 
 OrenviUc Library, a collection of 20,24:0 volumes, bequeathed to 
 the nation by the Right Hon. Thomas Grenville, and said to 
 have cost upwards of 54,000/. Other liberal donors have been 
 llev. C. M. Cracherode, David GaiTick, Sir Joseph Banks, &c. 
 The entrance to the Reading Rooms* is in Montague-place, 
 and the number of visitors to the Rooms in one year is about 
 70,000. The catalogues of printed books and MSS. are in 
 the room to the left as you enter. The books generally in 
 use, dictionaries, &c., are on the shelves of the rooms you sit 
 in. Having consulted the catalogue and found the title of 
 the book you require, you transcribe the title, on a printed 
 form given belovv^, to be found near the catalogues, from 
 whence you derive your references. 
 
 Tress JIark. 
 
 Title of t'ne Work wanted. Size. ; Place. 
 
 Date. 
 
 
 i 
 
 1 . 
 
 
 (Date) (Signature) 
 
 Please to restore each volume of the Catalogue to its place, as soon as 
 done with. 
 
 READERS ARE PARTICULARLY REQUESTED 
 
 1. Not to ask for more than one v:o/-k on the same ticket. 
 
 2. To transcribe UteraUij from the Catalogues the title of tlie Work 
 
 ■wanted. 
 
 3. To Arrite in a plain clear hand, in order to avoid delay and 
 
 mistakes. 
 
 4. Before leaving the Room, to return the hooks to an attendant, and 
 
 to obtain the corresponding ticket, the Reader beixg respon- 
 sible FOR THE Books so long as the Ticket eejiains 
 uxcaxcelled. 
 N.B. — Readers are, under no circumstances, to take any Book or MS. 
 out of the Reading Rooms. 
 
 The tickets for Printed Books are on white paper; for MSS. 
 on green paper. 
 
 j\l anuscripts. — The manuscripts in the Museum are divided 
 under several heads, of which the following are the chief: — 
 the Cotton MSS. (catalogued in 1 vol. folio); the Ha,rleiau 
 MSS. (catalogued in 4 vols, folio); the Lansdowne MSS. 
 
 * A new and spacious Reading-Room in the fiuadrangle is row 1S3G) 
 nearly ready.
 
 XIX. PRINT ROOM. 163 
 
 (catalogtied in 2 vols, folio); the Royal MSS. (catalogued in 
 1 vol. quarto, called Caslev's Catalogue); the Sloane and 
 Birch MSS. (in 1 vol. quarto); the Amndel MSS.; the 
 Bumey, Hargi-ave, aud a large and Miscellaneous collection 
 of " Additional MSS." in number about 30,000. The rarest 
 MSS. are entitled " Select," and can only be seen and exa- 
 mined in the presence of an attendant. The contents of two 
 cases alone are valued at above a quarter of a million. 
 Among the more remarkable we may mention : — Copy of the 
 Gospels in Latin (Cotton MSS., Tiberius A. II., the only un- 
 doubted relic of the ancient regalia of England), sent over to 
 Athelstane by his brother-in-law the emperor Otho, between 
 ■936 and 940, given by Athelstane to the metropolitan church 
 of Canterbury, and borrowed of Sir Robert Cotton to be used 
 at the coronation of Charles I. The " Book of St. Cuthbert " 
 or " Durham Book," a copy of the Gospels in Latin, written 
 in the seventh century by Eadfrith, Bishop of Lindisfarne, 
 4ind illuminated by Athelwald, the succeeding Bishop. The 
 Bible, said to have been written by Alcuin for Charlemagne. 
 The identical copy of Guiar des MouHx's version of Pierre le 
 Mangeur's Biblical History, which was found in the tent of 
 John, King of France, at the battle of Poietiers. MS. of 
 ■Cicero's translation of the Astronomical Poem of Aratus. An 
 Anglo-Saxon MS. of the ninth century. The Bedford Missal, 
 executed for the Regent Duke of Bedford, brother of Heniy V. 
 Psalter written for Heniy VI. Le Roman de la Rose (Hai'l. 
 MS. 4425). Heniy VIII.'s Psalter, containing Portraits 
 ■of Himself and Will Somers. Lady Jane Grey's Prayer Book. 
 Queen Elizabeth's Prayer Book, written in a print-hand ; the 
 ■cover is her own needle-work. Harl. MS. (7334), supposed 
 to be the best MS. of Chaucer's Canterbuiy Tales. Portrait 
 of Chaucer, by Occleve (from which Vertvie made his engrav- 
 ing). Froissart's Chronicles, with many curious illustrations 
 — often engraved. Matthew Paris, illuminated. A volume 
 of Hours executed circ. 1490, by a Flemish Artist (Hemme- 
 linck ?), for Philip the Fair, of Castile, or for his wife Joanna, 
 mother of the Emperor Charles V. Carte Blanche which 
 Prince Charles (Charles II.) sent to Parliament to save his 
 father's life. Oliver Cromwell's Letter to the Speaker, 
 describing the Battle of Naseby. Milton's assignment of 
 "Paradise Lost" to Sim monds the bookseller for 15^. ; Dryden's 
 assignment to Tonson of his translation of Virg-il, Original 
 MS. of Pope's Homer, written on the backs of letters. Stow's 
 collections for his Annals and his Survey of London, 317 
 volumes of Syriac MSS., obtained from Egyptian monasteries. 
 Print Room. — Drmcinr/s, dbc. — A small, but interesting, and 
 
 M 2
 
 164 XIX. — MINERALOGY. — ZOOLOGY. 
 
 in some respects valuable, collection, containing specimens of 
 Fra Beato Angelico, Fra Filippo, Domenico Ghirlandajo, 
 Pietro Perugino, Leonardo da Vinci, Fra Bartolommeo, 
 Kaphael, Giovanni Bellini, Titian, and Correggio — of Albert 
 Durei', Hans Holbein, Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck, Back- 
 huysen, A. Ostade, &c, 25 of the finer specimens ai-e framed 
 and hung up. Observe. — Impression in sulphur of the famous 
 Pax of Maso Finiguerra, cost 250 guineas. Silver Pax by 
 the same master. Carving in soap-stone, in high relief, by 
 Albert Durer (dated 1510), representing the Birth of John 
 the Baptist. Prints. — Marc Antonio's (fine). Lucas van 
 Leyden's (fine). Albert Durex-'s (fine). Rembrandt's (in 
 8 volumes, the finest known). Van Dyck etchings (good). 
 Early Italian School (numerous and fine). Dutch etchings, 
 (the Sheepshanks collection, containing Waterloo, Berghem, 
 P. Potter, A. Ostade, &c., the finest kno^^^l). Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds's works (not all proofs). Raphael Morghen's works. 
 Faitliorne's works (in 5 volumes, very fine). Hogarth's works, 
 (good). Crowle's collections to ilkistrate Pennant's London 
 (cost 7000^.). Works of Strange, Woollett, and Sharp (good). 
 Stothard's works, in 4 volumes (fine). 
 
 Mineralogy and Geology, (in the JST. Gallery). — The system 
 adopted for the arrangement of the minerals, with occasional 
 slight deviations, is that of Berzelius. The detail of this 
 arrangement is partly supplied by the running titles at the 
 outsides of the glass cases, and by the labels within them. 
 Observe (in the Class of Xative Iron, one of the largest collec- 
 tions known of meteoric stones or substances which have 
 fallen from the sky, placed in chronological order). — Large 
 fragment of the stone which fell at Ensisheim, in Alsace, 
 Nov. 7th, 1492, when the Emperor Maximilian was on the 
 point of engaging with the French army : this mass, which 
 weighed 270 lb., was preserved in the Cathedral of Ensis- 
 heim till the beginning of the French Revolution, when it 
 was conveyed to the public library of Colmar ; — one of the 
 many stones which fell (July 3rd, 1753) at Plaun, in the 
 circle of Bechin, Bohemia, and which contain a gi*eat propor- 
 tion of attractable iron ; — specimens of those that were seen 
 to fall at Barbotan, at Roquefort, and at Juliac, July 24th, 
 1790; — one of a dozen of stones of various weights and 
 dimensions that fell at Sienna, Jan. 16th, 1794 ; — the meteoric 
 stone, weighing 56 lb., which fell near Wold Cottage, in 
 the parish "of Thwing, Yorkshire, Dec. 13th, 1795; fragment 
 of a stone of 20 lb., which fell in the commune of Sales, near 
 Villefi'anche, in the department of the Rhone, March 12th, 
 1798. Observe, in Case 20, Dr. Dee's Show-stone.
 
 XIX. — ZOOLOGY. 165 
 
 Zoology. — This collection is superior to that at Berlin, and 
 only inferior to that in the Museum at Paris. Mammalia. 
 Saloon. — In the wall-cases of this saloon are arranged the 
 specimens of Rapacious and Hoofed Beasts ; and over the 
 cases, the different kinds of Seals, Manatees, and Porpoises ; 
 and on the floor are placed the larger hoofed beasts, too large 
 to be aiTanged in their proper places in the cases. Here, on 
 the floor, is the Wild Ox from Chillingham Park, Northum- 
 berland. Eastern Zoological Gallery. — The wall-cases contain 
 the collection of Birds; the smaller table-cases in each recess 
 contain birds' Eggs, arranged in the same series as the bu'ds ; 
 the larger table-ca^es, in the centre of the room, contain the 
 collection of Shells of Molluscous Animals ; and on the top 
 of the wall-cases is a series of Horns of hoofed quadrupeds. 
 Here, among the Wading Birds (Case 108), is the foot of the 
 Dodo, a bird now extinct, only known by a few scanty 
 remains, and by a painting here preserved, drawn, it is said, 
 fi-om a living bird brought from the Mauritius. The collec- 
 tions of Organic Remains are in Rooms I. to YI. Here is a 
 very curious collection, formed chiefly by the exertions of 
 Mr. Hawkins, Di\ Mantell, and Captain Cautley of the 
 Bengal Artillery. On a table in Room I., and in the centre 
 of the room, is a Tortoise of nephrite or jade, fomid on the 
 banks of the Jumna, near the city of Allahabad in Hindoo- 
 stan : 1000?. was once offered for it. In and on the wall-cases 
 of Room IV. are placed the larger specimens of the various 
 species of Ichthyosaurus, or the fish-lizard. The most 
 stiiking specimens are the Platyodon in the central case, and 
 various bones of its gigantic variety on the top of the same 
 case and in Case 2, such as the head cut transversely to show 
 the internal structure of the jaws ; the cai'pal bones of one of 
 the extremities, &c. : all from the lias of Lyme Regis in 
 Dorsetshire. In the centre of Room V. is a complete 
 skeleton of the large extinct Elk, bones of which are so 
 frequently met with in the bogs of Ireland, and occasionally 
 in some parts of England, and the Isle of Man. The present 
 specimen is from Ireland : it is the Cervus megaceros and 
 C. giganteus of authors. In Room VI. is the entire skeleton 
 of the American Mastodon [Mastodon Oldoticus), and suite of 
 separate bones and teeth of the same animal : the jaws, 
 tusks, molar teeth and other osseous parts of Elephas 
 primigenius, especially those of the Siberian vai'iety (the 
 Mammoth of early writers): the crania and other parts of 
 extinct Indian Elephants. At the W. end of the same room 
 (VI.) is the fossil human skeleton brought from Guadaloupe, 
 embedded in a limestone which is in process of formation at
 
 166 XIX. — NATIONAL GALLERY. 
 
 the present day. Northern Zoological Gallery, Room I. — 
 The wall-cases contain a series of the Skulls of the larger 
 Mammalia, to illustrate the characters of the families and 
 genera ; and of the Nests of birds, and the arbom^s of the 
 two species of Bower Bird ; the one ornamented with fresh 
 water shells and bones, and the other with feathers and land 
 shells, &c. Tlie table-cases : — the tubes of Annulose Animals,, 
 the casts of the interior cavities of Shells, and various speci- 
 mens of shells, illustrative of the diseases and malformation 
 of those animals. Room XL — The wall-cases contain the col- 
 lection of Reptiles and Bati-achian Animals, preserved dry 
 and in spirits; and the table-cases the first part of the 
 collection of the hard part of Radiated Animals, including 
 Sea Eggs, Sea Stars, and Encrinites. Room III. — The wall 
 cases contain the Handed and Glirine Mammalia, and the 
 table-cases the different kinds of Coi'als. Room IV. — Thfr 
 wall-cases contain the collection of Fish, and the table-cases 
 a few specimens of Annulose Animals, to exhibit their 
 systematic arrangement. The general collection of Insects 
 and Crustacea are preserved in cabinets. They may be seert 
 by persons Avishing to consult them for the purpose of study 
 (by application to the Keeper of the Zoological Collection) 
 every Tuesday and Thursday. To prevent disappointment, 
 it is requested that persons wishing to see those collections 
 will apply two days previous to their intended visit. 
 Room V. — The wall-cases contain the Molluscous and Radiated 
 Animals in spirits. Over the wall-cases is a very large Wasp's 
 Nest from India; and some Neptune's Cups — a kind of 
 sponge — from Singapore. Table-cases : — Sponges of different 
 lands, sho-wing their various forms and structure, and some 
 preserved in flint of the same character. Botany. — The 
 Botanical Collection is very large, and consists principally of 
 the collection bequeathed by Sir Joseph Banks. The only 
 watch at night for all these treasures is sixteen soldiers. 
 
 The NATIONAL GALLERY occupies the whole north 
 side of Trafalgar-square, and stands on the site of the King's 
 Mews. It is divided between the national collection of 
 paintings of the old masters, filling the western half ; and 
 the Royal Academy, occupying the eastern half, in which 
 exhibitions of modern works are held from May to July. The 
 Gallery was founded in 1824, and the present building 
 erected, 1832-38, from the designs of W. Wilkins, R.A., at a 
 cost of 96,000^, The columns of the portico wex'e those of 
 Carlton House. 
 
 The National Gallery is open on Monday, Tuesday, Wed-
 
 XIX. — NATIONAL GALLERY. 167 
 
 nesdaj, and Thursday, to the public geuerally ; on Friday 
 and Saturday to aiiist.s ; from 10 till 5 during the months of 
 November, December, January, February, March, and April, 
 — and from 10 till 6 during the months of May, June, July, 
 August, and, the first two weeks of September. The Gallery 
 is wholly closed during the last two weeks of September and 
 the month of October. 
 
 The Gallery originated in the purchase by Government, in 
 1824, of Mr. Angerstein's collection of 38 pictures for 57,000Z. 
 In 1826, Sir George Beaumont made a formal gift of 16 
 pictui-es, valued at the time at 7500 guineas. Important 
 bequests by the Rev. W. Holwell Carr, Lord Farnborough and 
 otherS; and other pm-chases by the Government, have brought 
 the collection, in less than a quai-ter of a century, to nearly 
 250 pictures, independently of Mi\ Vernon's noble gift of 162 
 •works of the English school. It is very inferior to the great 
 galleiies on the continent ; but, in many respects, is a highly 
 important collection. Cheap catalogvies of the pictures, from 
 a penny to a shilling, (Mr. Wornum's is the best^, may be 
 had both ■\\'ithin and without the Gallery. I shall therefore 
 content myself with giving a classed catalogue in schools of 
 the best pictures by the best masters. 
 
 Italian School. 
 Fraxcesco Fraxcia : the Virgin and Child -n-ith Saints: tlie Lunette 
 or Arch forming the top of the same altar-piece. These two fine pictures 
 v-ere purchased hy Parliament from the Lucca Collection for 3500?. — 
 Sebastian del Piojnso : the Raising of Lazarus. " The most important 
 specimen of the Italian School now in England." — Waagcn. it was 
 painted in competition with Raphael's Transfiguration. The figure of 
 Lazarus (very fine) attributed on good grounds to ilichael Angelo. This 
 was an Orleans picture, and cost Mr. Angei-stein 3500 guineas. — 
 Raphael: St. Catherine of Alexandria; purchased hv Paiiiament, in 
 1838, for 5000?. : the Vision of a Knight (fine); purchased by Parliament 
 for 1050/. : the :Murder of the Innocents ; part of a Cartoon, now painted 
 over with oil-colour. — L. da Vixci, or Luixi : Christ disputing with the 
 Doctoi-3. — CoF.REGGio : Mcrcury teaching Cupid to read in the presence 
 of Venus (very fine) : Ecce Homo (very fine). These two fine pictures 
 were purchased by Parliament from the Marquis of Londondeny for 
 10,000 guineas. The Holy Family : " La Vierge au Panier " (very fine); 
 purchased by Parliament, in 1847, for 3&W.— Titian* : a Concert; 
 originally in Charles I."s collection ; Waagen attributes it to Giorgione : 
 a Holy Family, from the Borghese Palace (fine) : Bacchus and 
 Ariadne (fine). — Tribute Money, bought at the Soult sale in 1852 
 for 2604/!. -Noli me Tangere (fine), bequeathed by the poet Itogers. 
 — Caracci (Axnibal) : Christ appearing to St. Peter, from the 
 Aldobrandini Collection. " This little picture is admirably executed 
 throughout." — Waogen. Pan or Silenus teaching Apollo to play on the 
 reed pipe.— Caracci (Ludovico) : Susannah and the Llders ; an Orleans 
 pictin-e. — Gcido : Venus attired by the Graces : the Magdalen : Susannah 
 and the Elders; purchased by Government, at Mr. Penrice's sale, for 
 1260?. — Claude: Landscape, Cephalus and Procris : painted in 1645; 
 Landscape, called the " Chigi Claude" (fine); cost Mr. Carr 2705 guineas;
 
 168 XIX. — NATIONAL G^UiLERY. 
 
 a Seaport, called the " Bouillon Claude " (very fine) ; cost Mr. Angersteiu 
 4000?.; the figures represent the Embarkation of the Queen of Sheba: 
 Landscape, ivitli the story of Narcissus : a Seaport; the figures represent 
 the Embarkation of St. Ursula and her attendant Virgins (very fine) : 
 a Landscape, Death of Procris : a Group of Trees: Landscape, Hagar 
 and her Son in the Desert (fine). — Salvator Rosa : Landscape vt-ith 
 the fable of Jlercury and the Woodman ; purchased by Parliament, in 
 1834, for 1680?.— Can aletti : View in Venice (fine). 
 
 Spanish School. 
 
 Vei.asqukz : Philip IV. of Spain hunting the Wild Boar (very fine), 
 purchased by Parliament, in 1846, for 2200?.— Murillo : the Holy 
 Family ; four figures, life-size ; purchased by Parliament, in 1837, for 
 3000?.: tlie Infant St. John with the Lamb; purchased by Parliament, at 
 Sir Simon Clarke's sale, for 2100?. The companion picture, " The Good 
 Shepherd," belongs to Baron Lionel Rothschild, and is now at Gunners- 
 bury Park, near London. 
 
 Flemish School. 
 
 John Van Eyck : Portraits of a Flemish Gentleman and a Lad 
 (very fine) ; under the mirror is written, " Johannes de Eyck fuit hie 
 1434;"' purchased by Parliament, in 1842, for 600 guineas: small 
 Portrait, bought fl&51) for 365?.— Rubens : the Rape of the Sabines : 
 Peace and War (fine), presented by -Rubens to Charles I.; bought 
 by the Marquis of Stafford for 3000?., and presented by him to the 
 National Gallery : the Brazen Serpent : a Landscape ; Rubens's 
 Chateau (fine) ; cost Sir George Beaumont 1500?.: Apotheosis of 
 William the Taciturn ; a sketch for the large design at Osterley, the 
 seat of Lord Jersey (fine) ; purchased in 1842, for 200?. : the Judgment 
 of Paris (very fine); an Orleans picture; purchased by Parliament, in 
 1847, for 420C1?. — Van Dyck: St. Ambrosius refusing to admit the Em- 
 peror Theodosins into the church at Milan (fine) ; cost Mr. Angerstein 
 1600?. : a Portrait called Gevartius (one of the finest portraits in the 
 Avorld); cost Mr. xVngerstein 375?. — Rembrandt: the Woman taken in 
 Adultery (very fine); Mr. Angerstein bought it at Christie's, in 1807, for 
 5250?. : Portrait of a Jew-merchant, life-size, three-quarters : Chi-ist 
 taken down from the Cross ; a study in black and white (fine) : the 
 Adoration of the Shepherds. — Cuyp : a Landscape, Huntsman on a 
 dappled grey horse (fine); bought by ^Mr. Angerstein at Sir Laurence 
 Dundas's sale, in 1794, for 204?. 15s.— Arnold Vander Neer : a Land- 
 scape, Evening.— Nicholas Maes : a Girl peeling parsnips (fine). — 
 David Teniers : the Misers (very fine). 
 
 French School. 
 
 Sebastian Bourdon : the Return of the Ark (belonged to Sir Joshua 
 RejTiold.s, who praises it in his Discourses). — N. Poussin : a Landscape : 
 a Dance of Bacchanals in honour of Pan (very fine). — G. Poussin: 
 Landscape ; the figures represent Abraham preparing to sacrifice his son 
 Isaac : a Land-storm: a classical Landscape, with the stoiy of Dido and 
 ^•Eneas (fine) : View of Lerici (fine) : an Italian Landscape; cost Lord 
 Farnborough 700 guineas. 
 
 English School. 
 
 Two fine Landscapes, by J. :M. W. Turner, R.A., left (1852) to the 
 British nation, conditionally that they were hung as companions to 
 the Claudes in the National Gallery. 
 
 Observe. — In the Hall : the colossal Waterloo Vase, by Sir 
 Richard Westmacott, weighmg 20 tons; in height 16 feet, 
 and in diameter between 9 and 10 feet. The three blocks of
 
 XIX. — VERNON GALLERY. 169 
 
 whicli this vase Avas composed were intended by Xapoleon 
 to have been fashioned into a vase to celebrate his victories. 
 The Dvike of Tuscany presented them to George IV., who 
 caused them to be made into the present vase to celebrate 
 the downfall of Napoleon. Statue of Sir David Wilkie, by 
 S, Joseph: Wilkie's palette is let into the pedestal. Alto- 
 relievo, by T. Banks, E.A., Thetis and her XjTuphs rising from 
 the sea to condole with Achilles on the loss of Patroclus (fine). 
 
 MARLBOROUGH HOUSE, (temporary place of deposit 
 of a pox'tion of the Xatioual Gallery, consisting entirely 
 of the English school.) Built 1709-10 by Sir C. Wren for 
 John Churchill, the great Duke of Marlborough, on gi-ound 
 leased to him by Queen Anne. The gi'eat duke and his 
 duchess both died in this hovise. The duchess used to 
 speak of her neighhoicr George, meaning the King in St. 
 James's Palace, and here she is described as receiving a 
 deputation of the Lord Mayor and sheriffs, "sitting up in 
 her bed in her usual manner." The Pall-mall entrance to 
 the house being, as it still is, extremely bad, the duchess 
 designed a new one, and was busy trying to effect the neces- 
 sary pm-chases when Sir Robert "\Yalpole, wishing to vex her, 
 stept in and bought the very leases she was looking after. 
 The sham archway, facing the principal entrance to the house, 
 forms a sort of screen to the parlours in Pall-mall. This 
 was turning the tables on the duchess, who had employed 
 Wren to vex Vanbi-ugh. Marlborough House was bought by 
 the Crown in 1817 for the Princess Charlotte and Prince 
 Leopold. The Princess died before the assignment was 
 effected, but the Prince (now the King of the Belgians) lived 
 here for several years. The last inhabitant was the ^ridow of 
 William IV. It is now the property of the Prince of Wales, 
 and is only lent for the purposes of a Galleiy. The best 
 pictures only are here mentioned. Official catalogues, price 2d., 
 may be bought at the door. 
 
 Pai/iti/iffS of the English School. 
 HuYf5MAx : Original Portrait of Izaak Walton, the angler.— Hogakth : 
 Portrait of Himself (the well-kuowii engi-aved head) ; the JLirriage a la 
 Mode (a series of six pictures, Hogarth's greatest work ; the character 
 inimitable, the colouring excellent). Hogarth received for the six pic- 
 tures 110 guineas: Mr. Angerstein paid 13S1L for them.— R. Wilsox; 
 Msecenas' Villa (fine) ; Landscape, Avith the story of Niobe and her 
 children (very tine). — Gaixsborocgii : tlie Market-cart; the Watering- 
 place. — Sir Joshua Reyxolds : Portrait of Lord Heathfield -with the 
 keys of the fortress of Gibraltar (very fine) ; Studies of Angels, five 
 heads, life-size (very fine). — Lawrexce : John Philip Kemble, as 
 Hamlet; Portrait of Benjamin West, the painter. — Wilkie : the Blind 
 Fiddler (A-ery fine), painted for 50 guineas for Sir George Beaumont.
 
 170 XIX. — DULWICH GALLERY. 
 
 the Village Festival (fine), painted for Mr. Angerstein.— Constable, R. A . 
 the Corn-field. — Gilbeet Stuart : Portrait of Woollett, the engraver. 
 
 Ttte Vernon ColUctkrn of the English School. 
 
 G2 pictai'es in all, many veiy fine, presented to the nation in 1847 by 
 
 Kobert Vernon, Esc^., -who died in 1849, aged 75.) 
 
 {Deceased Artists.) 
 Sm Joshua Betxolds: the Age of Innocence (veiy fine), cost 
 Mr. Vernon, at Mr. Harraan's sale at Christie's, 1450 guineas. — Gaixs- 
 BOROUGU : Landscape, Sunset (fine): the Young Cottagers. — Richard 
 "Wilson : four small pictures (fine). — Louthekbourgh : small Landscape. 
 — SiE A. "\V. Callcott, R a. : Littlehampton Pier (fine) ; Coast Scene ; 
 Crossing the Brook. — AVilkie : the Newsmongers (fine) ; the Bagpiper 
 (fine); the Fir^t Eai--ring; the Whiteboy's Cabin. — E. Bird, R.A.: the 
 Raffle for the Watch. — Coxstable, R.A. : His Father's Mill. — Collins, 
 R.A.: Happy as a King; Prawn Fishers. — G. B. Newton, R.A. : Sterne 
 and the Grisette. — P. Nasmyth : small Landscape in the manner of 
 Hobbema. — W. Etty, R.A.: Youth at the Prow and Pleasure at the 
 Helm (fine); the Bathers (fine).— Turner, R.A. : William III. landing 
 at Torbay ; Composition Landscape (fine) ; Two Views in Venice (fine). 
 
 {Living Artists.) 
 Stanfield, R.A. : the Entrance to the Zuyder Zee (fine). — DAVir>^ 
 Roberts, R.A. : Interior of St. PauFs at Antwerp (fine).— T. Uavins, 
 R.A. : Claret Vintage. — F.R.Lee, R.A.: two Landscapes. — T. Cres- 
 "wicK, R.A. : Landscape (fine). — Edwin Landseee, R.A.: Peace and 
 War, companion pictures (Peace very fine) ; Highland Piper and Dogs ; 
 Spaniels of King Charles's breed; the Dying Stag; High Life and Low 
 Life Dogs.— W. Mulready, R.A. : the Last In ; the Ford.— T. Webster, 
 R.A. : the Dame's School (fine). — D. Maclise, R.A. : the Play Scene in 
 Hamlet; Malvolio and the Countess.— Sir C. L. Eastlake, P.R.A. i 
 Christ weeping over Jerusalem. — C. R. Leslie, R.A. : Sancho and the 
 Duchess (Mr. Leslie's greatest work) ; Uncle Toby looking into the eye 
 of Widow Wadmau. Mr. Sheepshanks has a fine duplicate of the same 
 subject. — E. M. Ward, A.R.A.: the Disgrace of Clarendon; 'Change 
 Alley during the South Sea Bubble.— J. Linnell: Landscape. — E. W. 
 CoosE, A.RA.: two Sea pieces. — Sidney Cooper, A.R.A. : a Cattle 
 piece. — F. Danby, A.R.A. : Landscape — Augustus Egg, A.R.A. : Scene 
 from Gil Bias. — F. Goodall, A.R.A.: the Village Festival. 
 
 The 7 Vernon marbles in the Hall, as you enter, include 6 
 bu.st.g, chiefly copies, and " Hylas sm'prised by the K'aiads,"^ 
 a fine work by John Gibson, R.A. 
 
 DULWICH GALLERY, at Duhvich, 5 m. from Waterloo 
 Bridge, is open every day of the week except Fridays and 
 Sundays. "Without a ticket no person can be admitted, and no 
 tickets are given in Dulwich. Tickets are to be obtained gratis 
 of Henry Graves and Co., 6, Pall-mall; Messrs. ColnaghiandCo., 
 PaU-mall East; Mr. Lloyd, 23, Harley-street ; H. Leggatt and 
 Co., Cornhill ; and Mr. Markby, Croydon, Surrey. Schools, 
 and children under the age of 14, are not admittted. Hours- 
 of admis.sion, from April to Novembei', 10 to 5 ; from No- 
 vember to April, 11 to 3. You can reach it by omnibus fi-om 
 the Elephant and Castle in Lambeth, and the Elephant and 
 Castle is easily reached by omnibuses from all parts of London.
 
 XIX. — DULWICH GALLERY. 171 
 
 This Gallery, containing the only collection, freely accessible 
 to the public, which affords an opportunity of studying the 
 Dutch masters, was founded by Sir Francis Bourgeois, R.A. 
 (d. 1811), who left 354 pictures to the College, 10,000Z. to 
 erect and keep in repair a building for their reception, and 
 2000?. to provide for the care of the pictures. Bourgeois 
 asked John Philip Kemble where he should build a gallery for 
 his pictures, and Kemble, an actor, recommended God's 
 Gift College, at Dulwich, erected in the reign of James I. 
 by Edward Alleyn, the keeper of the bears to James I., actor 
 and rival of Richard Burbadge. The hint was taken, and the 
 present Gallery attached to the College built in 1812, from 
 the designs of Sir John Soane. The Murillos and Cuyps are 
 especially fine. Observe. — 
 
 MuRiLLO : the Flower Girl, No. 248 ; Spanish Boys, Nos. 283 and 284; 
 the Madonna del Eosario, No. 341 ; Meeting of Jacob and Kachel, No. 
 294.— CuYP (in all 19) : a Landscape, No. 68 \ Banks of a Canal, No. 76 ; 
 a Landscape, No. 169, the finest of the 19 ; Ditto, No. 192 ; Ditto, No. 239 ; 
 Ditto, No. 163.— Teniees (in all 21): a Landscape, No. 139; a Land- 
 .scape, with Gipsies, No. 155 ; the Chaft'Cutter, No. 18^5 (tine). — Hobbema : 
 the Mill, No. ISl. — Eembraxdt : Jacob's Dream, No. 179 ; a Girl leaning 
 ont of a Window, No. 206. — Rubexs : Sampson and Dalilah, No. 168 ; 
 Mars, Venus, and Cupid, No. 351 (the Mars a portrait of Rubens himself 
 when young); Maria Pypeling, the Mother of Rubens, No 355. — Van- 
 Dyck : Charity, No. 124; Virgin and Child, No. 135 ; Philip, 5th Earl of 
 Pembroke (half-length), No. 214 ; " The head is very delicate ; the hand 
 effaced by cleaning." — Waa/jm ; Susan, Countess of Pembroke, No 134; 
 '•quite ruined by cleaning." — IFha^'e?*.- AVouverjiaxs : View on the Sea 
 Shore, No. 93; a Land.scape, No. 173 ; Ditto, No. 228. — Berghe.m : a Land- 
 scape, No. 200 ; Ditto, No. 209.— Both : a Landscape, No. 36.— Velas- 
 quez ; Prince of Spain on Horseback, No. 194 ; Philip IV. of Spain 
 (three-quarters). No. 309; Head of a Boy, No. 222.— Adrian Brouwek: 
 Interior of a Cabaret, No. 54. — A. Ostade : Boors Merry-making, No. 
 190 ; " of astonishing depth, clearness, and wannth of colour." — Waagen. 
 — Kaeel du Jardin : the Farrier's Shop, No. 229.— Vaxder Werff : 
 the Judgment of Paris, No. 191. — Vax Huysum : Flowers in a Vase, 
 No. 121 ; Flowers, No. 140. — Pyxaker : a Landscape, No. 150. — Wat- 
 teau : le Bal ChampOtre, No. 210.— Titiax : Europa, a Study, No. 230. 
 — P. Veronese : St. Catherine of Alexandria, No. 268; a Cardinal, No. 
 333. — GuERCixo: the "Woman taken in Adulteiy, No. 348. — Axxibal 
 Caracci : the Adoi-ation of the Shepherds, No. 349. — Guido : Europa, 
 No. 259; Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, No. 339; St. John the Baptist 
 Preaching in the Wilderness, No. 331 (fine).— Car avaggio : the Lock- 
 smith. No. 299.— Claude : Embarkation of Sa. Paula from the Port 
 of Ostia, No. 270.— S.Rosa: a Landscape, No. 220 ; Soldiers Gambling, 
 No. 271.— G. Poussix: a Landscape, No. 257.— N. Poussxx : the Inspi- 
 ration of the Poet, No. 295; the Nursing of Jupiter, No. 300; the 
 Triumph of David, No. 305; the Adoration of the Magi, No. 291 ; 
 Rinaldo and Armida, No. 315 (fine).— Fraxcesco Mola : St. Sebastian, 
 No. 261.— Gaixsborough : Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickell (full-lengths, 
 very fine). Mrs. Slieridan was Maria Linlev, the first Avife of R. B. She- 
 ridan, the dramatist, No. 1.— Opie : Portrait of Himself, No. 3.— Sir T. 
 Lawrence : Portrait of William Linley (near No. 222). 
 
 The Mrs. Siddons and his own Portrait, by Sir Joshua, are indifierent
 
 172 XIX. — COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. 
 
 duplicates of the well-known originals in tlie Grosvenor Gallery and the 
 Queen's Galleiy at Windsor. 
 
 In the College and Mastei"'s apartments at Dulwicb, are 
 the following interesting portraits : — 
 
 Edward Alleyn, the founder, full-length, Idack dress, but much injured. 
 Richard Burbadge, master, " a small closet-piece ; " bequeathed by Cart- 
 wright, the actor, in 1687. Nat Field, the poet and actor, " in his shirt 
 on a board, in a black frame, filleted with gold ; " bequeathed by Cartwright 
 in 1687. Tom Bond, the actor ; bequeathed by Cartwright, 1687. Ptichard 
 Perkins, the actor, three-quarters, long white hair; bequeathed by Cart- 
 wright, 1687. CartAvright (senior), one of the Prince Palatine's players, 
 bequeatlied by his son in 1687. Cartwright (junior), an actor (.My 
 picture in a black dress, with a great dog). Michael Drayton, the poet, 
 " in a black frame ; " bequeathed by Cartwright in 1687. Lovelace, the 
 poet, by Dobson (fine). Lovelace's Althea, with her hair dishevelled. John 
 G reenhill, " the most promising of Lely's scholars " ( Walpole) , by himself. 
 
 In the College is preserved Philip Henslowe's Diary and 
 Account-book, one of the most valuable documents we possess 
 in illustration of the drama and stage in the time of Queen 
 Elizabeth. The Revenue of Duhvich College is about 
 £9;000 a-year. 
 
 The EOYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEOXS, on the S. side 
 of Lincoln' s-Inn-fields, was built, 1835, from the designs of Sir 
 Charles Barry, R.A., and is said to have cost 40,000^. 
 
 The Museum is open to the Fellows and Members of the 
 College, and to visitors introduced by them personally, or 
 by written orders stating their names (which orders are not 
 transferable), on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and 
 Thursdays, from 12 to 4 o'clock ; except during the month of 
 Septembei", when the Museum is closed. 
 
 The museum of the College, at present (1853) under the 
 direction of Richard Owen, the Cuvier of England, originated 
 in the purchase for 15,000^., made by parliament, of the Hun- 
 terian Collection. John Hunter (the founder) was born in 1728 
 at Long Calderwood, near Glasgow, and died suddenly in 
 St. George's Hospital, London, in 1793. The Collection is 
 arranged in two apartments — one called the " Physiological 
 Department, or Xormal Structures ; " the other the " Patho- 
 logical Department, or Abnormal Structures ; " — the number 
 of specimens is upwards of 23,000. OI>serve. — Skeleton (8 
 feet in height) of Charles Byrne or O'Brian, the Irish giant, 
 who died in Cockspur-street, in 1783, at the age of 22. 
 He measured, when dead, 8 feet 4 inches. — Skeleton (20 
 inches in height) of Caroline Crachami, the Sicilian dwarf, 
 who died in Bond-street, in 1824, in the 10th year of her 
 age. — Plaster-cast of the right hand of Patrick Cotter, an 
 Irish giant, whose height, in 1802, was 8 feet 7 inches and a
 
 XIX. — COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. 173 
 
 half. — Plaster-cast of the left hand of M. Louis, the French 
 giaut, whose height was 7 feet 4 inches. — Skeleton of Chunee, 
 the famous elephant brought to England in 1810 — exhibited 
 for a time on the stage of Covent-garden Theatre, and sub- 
 sequently bought by Mr. Cross, the proprietor of the menagerie 
 at Exeter 'Change. After a return of an annual paroxysm, 
 aggravated, as subsequently appeared, by inflammation of the 
 large pulp of one of the tusks, Chunee, in 1826, became so 
 ungovernably violent that it was foiuid necessary to kill him. 
 Amid the shower of balls, he knelt down at the well-known 
 voice of his keeper, to present a more vulnerable point to 
 the soldiers employed to shoot him, and did not die until 
 he had received upwards of 100 musket and rifle bullets. 
 On the platform is preserved the base of the inflamed tusk, 
 showing a spicula of ivory which projected into the pulp. — 
 Skeleton of the gigantic extmct deer {Megaceros Hihei'nicus, 
 commonly but erroneously called the ''Irish elk"), exhumed 
 from a bed of shell marl beneath a jjeat-bog near Limerick. 
 The span of the antlers, measm'ed in a straight line between 
 the extreme tips, is 8 feet : the length of a single antler, 
 following the curve, 7 feet 3 inches : height of the skeleton 
 to the top of the skull, 7 feet 6 inches ; to the highest point 
 of the antlers, 10 feet 4 inches : weight of the skull and 
 antlei's, 76 pounds. — Female monstrous foetus, found in the 
 abdomen of Thomas Lane, a lad between 15 and 16 years of 
 age, at Sherborne, in Dorsetshire, June 6th, 1814. — Imper- 
 fectly formed male foetus, found in the abdomen of John Hare, 
 an infant between 9 and 10 months old, born May 8th, 1807. 
 — Human female twin monster, the bodies of which are 
 united crosswise, sacrum to sacrum ; the mother was between 
 16 and 17 years of age, and was delivei-ed, in 1815, without 
 any particular difficulty. — Intestines of Napoleon, sho-fting 
 the progress of the disease which carried liim off. — Cast in 
 wax of the band uniting the bodies of the Siamese twins. — 
 Iron pivot of a try-sail mast, and two views of John Toylor, 
 a seaman, thx'ough whose chest the blunt end of the pivot 
 was di-iven. "\Miile guiding the pivot of the try-sail mast 
 into the main-boom, on board a brig in the London Docks, 
 the tackle gave way, and the pivot passed obliquely through 
 his body and penetrated the deck. He was carried to the 
 London Hospital, where it was found that he had sustained 
 various other injuries, but in five months he was enabled to 
 walk from the hospital to the College of Surgeons, and back 
 again. He returned to his duty as a seaman, and twice, at 
 intervals of about a year, revisited the College in a robust 
 state of health. The trv-sail mast was 39 feet long, and
 
 174 XIX. — so AXE MUSEUM. 
 
 about 600 pounds in weight. — Portions of a skeleton of a 
 rhinoceros, discovered in a limestone cavern at Oreston, near 
 Plymouth, during the formation of the Plymouth breakwater. 
 — Embalmed body of the first wife of the late Martin Van 
 Butch ell, prepared at his request in January, 1775, by Dr. 
 William Hunter and Mr. Cruikshank, The method pursued 
 in its preparation was, principally, that of injecting the 
 vascular system with oil of turpentine and camphorated 
 spirit of ^vine, and the introduction of powdered nitre and 
 camphor into the cavity of the abdomen, &c. 
 
 Wo7'l-s of Art. — Portrait of John Hunter, by So- Joshua 
 Reynolds ; the well-known pictin-e so finely engraved by 
 Sharp : it has sadly faded. Posthiimous bust of John Hunter, 
 by Flaxrnan. Bust of Cline, by Chantrey (fine). 
 
 SO AXE MUSEUM, 13, Lixcolxs Ixx Fields, north side; 
 formed and founded in his own house by Sir John Soane, 
 son of a bricklayer at Reading, and architect of the Bank of 
 England (d. 1837). 
 
 The Soane Museum is open to general visitors on Mondays, 
 Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays during the months of 
 April, May, and June, in each year, and likewise on Tues- 
 days, from the first in February to the last in August, for the 
 accommodation of foreigners : persons making but a short 
 stay in London ; artists ; and those who, from particular 
 circumstances, may be prevented from visiting the Museum 
 in the months first specified, and to whom it may be con- 
 sidered proper that such favour should be conceded. 
 Foreigners are admitted when the MiLseum is open on pro- 
 ducing a card, to be obtained at the several embassies. 
 
 Persons desirous of obtaining Admission to the Museum 
 can apply either to a Tiiistee, by letter to the Curator, or 
 personally at the Musevxm a day or two before they desire to 
 visit it ; in the latter case, the applicant is expected to leave 
 a card, containing the name and address of the party 
 desmng admission, and the number of persons proposed to 
 be inti'oduced, or the same can be entered in a book kept 
 for the purpose in the Hall, when, unless there appears to 
 the Curator any satisfactory reason to the contrary, a Card 
 of Admission for the next open day is forwai^ded by post to 
 the given address. 
 
 Access to the Books, Drawings, MSS., or permission to 
 copy Pictures or other Works of Art, is to be obtained by 
 special application to the Timstees or the Curator. 
 
 The house was bmlt in 1812, and the collection is dis- 
 tributed over 2i rooms. There is much that is valuable,
 
 XIX. — SOANE MUSEUM, 175 
 
 and a good deal not worth much. Evciy comer and passage 
 is turned to account. On the north and west sides of the 
 Picture-room are Cabinets, and on the south are Moveable 
 Shutters, with sufficient space between for pictures. By this 
 aiTangement, the small space of 13 feet 8 inches in length, 
 12 feet 4 inches in breadth, and 19 feet 6 inches high, is 
 rendered capable of containing as many pictures as a gallery 
 of the same height, 45 feet long and 20 feet broad. Observe. 
 — The Egyptian Sarcophagus, discovered by Belzoni, Oct. 
 19th, 1 Sit), in a tomb in the valley of Beban el Malook, near 
 Gouraou. It is formed of one single piece of alabaster, or 
 arragonite, measuring 9 feet 4 inches in length by 3 feet 8 
 inches in width, and 2 feet 8 inches in depth, and covered 
 internally and externally with elaborate hieroglyphics. 
 When a lamp is placed within it, the light shines through, 
 though it is 2^ inches in thickness. On the inteilor of the 
 bottom is a full-length figure, representing the Egyptian Isis, 
 the guardian of the dead. It was purchased by Soaue, from 
 Mr. Salt, in 1824, for 2000?. The raised lid or cover, broken 
 into nineteen fragments, lies beneath it. Sir Gai-duer 
 Wilkinson considers that it is a cenotaph I'ather than a 
 sarcophagus, and the name inscribed to be that of Osirei, 
 father of Rameses the Great. — Sixteen original sketches and 
 models, by Flaxman, including one of the few casts in 
 plaster of the Shield of Achilles.— -Six original sketches and 
 models by T. Banks, R.A., including the Boothby Monument, 
 one of his finest works. — A large collection of ancient gems, 
 entaglios, &c., under glass, and in a very good light. Set of 
 the Napoleon medals, selected by the Baron Denon for the 
 Empress Josephine, and once in her possession. — Sir Chris- 
 topher Wren's watch. — Caiwed and gilt ivory table and four 
 ivory chairs, formerly in Tippoo Saib's palace at Seringapatam. 
 — Richly mounted pistol, said to have been taken by Peter 
 the Great from the Bey, Commander of the Turkish army at 
 Azof, 1696, and presented by the Emperor Alexander to 
 Xapoleon, at the Treaty of Tilsit in 1807 : Xapoleon took it 
 to St. Helena, from whence it was brought by a French 
 officer, to whom he had presented it. — The original copy of 
 the Gei-usalemme Liberata, in the handwriting of Tasso, 
 — First four folio editions of Shakspeare (-J. P. Kemble's 
 copies). — A folio of designs for Elizabethan and James I. 
 houses by John Thorpe, an architect of those reigns. — Faunt- 
 leroy's Illustrated copy of Pennant's London ; purchased by 
 Soane for 650 guineas. — Commentary on St. Paul's Epistles, 
 illuminated by Ghdio Clovlo for Cardinal Grimani. — Three 
 CanaUttis — one A View on the Grand Canal of Venice,
 
 176 XIX. — MUSEUM OF PRACTICAL GEOLOGY. 
 
 extremely fine. — The Snake in the Grass, or Love unloosing 
 the Zone of Beauty, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; purchased at 
 the sale of the Marchioness of Thomond's pictures, for 500/^. 
 — The Rake's Progi-ess, by Hogarlh, a series of 8 pictures ; 
 purchased by Soane in 1802 for 598?. — 1. The Rake comes to 
 his Fortune ; 2. The Rake as a Fme Gentleman ; 3. The 
 Rake in a Bagnio ; 4. The Rake Arrested ; 5. The Rake's 
 Marriage ; 6. The Rake at the Gaming Table ; 7. The Rake in 
 Prison ; 8. The Rake in Bedlam. — The Election, by Ilogarthj 
 a series of four pictures ; purchased by Soane, at Mrs. 
 Garrick's sale in 1823, for 1732?. 105. — Van Tromp's Barge 
 entering the Texel, by /. M. W. Turner, i?.^.— Portrait of 
 Napoleon in 1797, hj Francesco Goma. — Miniature of Napoleon, 
 painted at Elba in 1814, by Isahey. — In the Dining-room is a 
 portrait of Soane, by Sir T. Lawrence ; and in the Gallery 
 under the dome, a bust of him by Sir F. Chantrey. 
 
 UNITED SERVICE MUSEUM, United Service Iksti- 
 TUTioN, Whitehall Yard. Founded 1830, as a central 
 repository for objects of professional arts, science, natural 
 history, books and documents relating to those objects, and 
 for the delivery of lectures on appropriate subjects. Hours 
 of Admission for Visitors. — Summer months, April to Sep- 
 tember, from 11 to 5; winter months, from 11 to 4. Mode 
 of Admission. — Member's order, easily procurable. The 
 members are above 4000 in number. Entrance-fee, 11. ; 
 annual subscription, 10s.; life subscrijjtion, 61. The Museum 
 of the Institution contains much that "s^^ll repay a \'isit. 
 Observe. — Basket-hilted cut-and-thrust sword, used by Oliver 
 Cromwell at the siege of Drogheda (1649), — the blade bears 
 the marks of two musket-balls ; sword worn by General 
 Wolfe when he fell at Quebec (1759) : sash used in carrying 
 Sir John Moore fi'om the field, and lowering him into his 
 gi-ave on the ramparts at Corunna ; part of the deck of the 
 Victory on which Nelson fell ; rudder of the Royal George 
 sunk at Spithead ; skeleton of Marengo, the barb-horse which 
 Napoleon rode at Waterloo ; Captain Siborne's elaborate and 
 faithful model of the field and battle of Waterloo, containing 
 190,000 metal figures. 
 
 MUSEUM OF PRACTICAL GEOLOGY, Nos. 28 to 32, 
 Jermyn Street, established 1835, in consequence of a repre- 
 sentation to the Government by Sir Henry de la Beche, C.B. 
 (Honorary Director), that the geological survey, then under 
 the Ordnance, and in progress in Cornwall, possessed great 
 opportunities of illustrating the application of geology to the 
 useful purposes of life. The collections were at first placed
 
 XX. OPERAS AND THEATRES. 177 
 
 iu Craig's-court, Cbaring-cro.'^s, but they aiigineuted so 
 rapidly, chiefly from donations, that a larger building became 
 necessary for them, and the present handsome and well- 
 contrived Museum pir. Pennethorne, architect) was opened 
 in 1851. The best use has been made of the space, and a 
 building better fitted for its purposes could not have been 
 devised. It cost 30,000/. The Museum is a School of Mines, 
 similar, as far as circumstances permit, to the Ecole des 
 Mines and other institutions of the like kind on the Con- 
 tinent. Already a very valuable collection of mining records 
 has been formed. The collections are gratuitously open to 
 public inspection eveiy day in the week, except Fridays. 
 They are large, and rapidly increasing, chiefly, as ax first, 
 from donations, and comprise illustrations of the geology 
 of the United Kingdom and its colonies, and of the appli- 
 cation of geology to the useful purposes of life; numei'oua 
 models of mining works, mining machineiy, metallurgical 
 processes, and other operations, with needful maps, sections, 
 and drawings, aiding a proper and comprehensive view of 
 the general subject. The Lecture Theatre holds 450 persons, 
 and evening lectures to working men, illustrative of the col- 
 lections in the Museum, are occasionally delivered iu it. 
 
 THE MISSIONARIES' MUSEUM, Bloomfield Street, 
 MooRFiELDS, comprises a collection of objects of Natm-al 
 History, and the original idols of the natives of the South 
 Seas, prior to the introduction of Christianity : also other 
 curiosities from the various regions to which the influence of 
 the Missionaiy Society extends. The Museum is open for 
 public inspection, free, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur- 
 days, from 10 to 4, from March 25th to September 29th; the 
 rest of the year from 10 to 3. 
 
 XX.-THEATRES AND PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 
 
 HER MAJESTY'S THEATRE, or the Opera House, in 
 the Hatmarket. This, the largest theatre in Europe, except 
 that of La Scala at Milan, and the second theatre on the 
 same site, was built (1790) from the design of Michael 
 Novosielski, and altei-ed and enlarged by Xash and Repton 
 iu 1816-18. The first theatre on the site was built and 
 established (1705) by Sir John Vanbrugh, and burnt down
 
 178 XX. — THE OPERA. 
 
 in 1789. Many of tlie double boxes on the ground tier have- 
 sold for as much as 7000L and 8000Z. ; a box on the pit tier 
 has sold for 4000?. The leading attractions of the house 
 vary with the London season and the successful rivalry of 
 the other Opera in Covent Garden. It was here that 
 Jenny Lind sang. The Crush Room at the Opei-a, so called 
 from its crowded character, adjoins the avenue leading to 
 the pit. 
 
 COVENT GARDEN THEATRE, or The Royal Italian- 
 Opera, stood on the west side of Bow-street, Covent-garden, 
 and was the second theati-e on the same spot. The first 
 stone was laid (1808) by the Pi'ince of Wales, and the 
 theatre opened (1809) at "new prices:" hence the 0. P. 
 (Old Prices) Row. The architect of the exterior was Sir 
 Robert Smirke, R.A., and of the interior Mr. Albano, when, 
 in 1847, it was converted into an Italian Opera; and the 
 statues of Tragedy and Comedy, and the two bas-reliefs on 
 the Bow-street front, are by Flaxman. This noble theatre 
 (the finest in London) was desti'oyed, on the morning of the 
 5th March, 1856, by fire, at the termination of a lengthy 
 entei-tainment and masqued ball managed by Mr. Ander.son, 
 the Wizard of the North. The origin of the fire is unknown. 
 For an account of Covent Garden as an Italian Opera, see 
 Timbs's '' Curiosities of London," 12mo., 1855, p. 722. 
 
 DRURY LANE THEATRE (Mr. B. Wyatt, sou of James 
 Wyatt, architect), is the oldest existing theatre in London. 
 The present edifice, the fourth on the same site, was erected 
 and opened, 1812, with a prologue by Lord Byron. The 
 portico towards Brydges-street was added during the lessee- 
 ship of Elliston (181^-26), and the colonnade in Little 
 Russell-street a few years after. Since the close of Mr. 
 Macready's season, June 14th, 1843, the glo7nes of Old Drury 
 may be said to have altogether departed, each new lessee 
 quitting the concern with a loss. Within the vestibule is a 
 marble statue of Edmund Kean as Hamlet, by Carew. It 
 is like — but the attraction of Kean in Hamlet was the 
 witchery of his voice. The present lessee is Mr. E, T. Smith. 
 
 The HAYMARKET THEATRE (over against the Opera 
 House in the Hatmarket) was built by Nash, and publicly 
 opened July 4th, 1821. It stands on a piece of ground 
 immediately adjoining a former theatre of the same name, 
 and is still distinguished in the play-bills as " the Little 
 Theatre." The lessee is Mr. Buckstone, the well-known
 
 XX. — PKIXCESS'S THEATRE. 179 
 
 fictoi'. Pnces of admission : — Orchestra Stalls, os. ; Dress 
 Cii'cle and Boxes, os. ; Pit, 3^'. Half-piice at 9. 
 
 The ADELPHI THEATRE, over agaiust Adam Street, in 
 the Strand, was built (1806) on speculation by Mr. John Scott, 
 a colour-maker. The entertainments consisted of a mechanical 
 and optical exhibition, with songs, recitations, and imitations ; 
 and the talents of Miss Scott, the daughter of the proprietor, 
 gave a profitable turn to the undertaking. The old front 
 towards the Strand was a mere house-front : the present 
 gin-palace facade was built in 1841. When "Tom and 
 Jeny," bv Pierce Egau, appeared for the first time (Xov. 
 26th, 1821), Wrench as "Tom," and Pteeve as '-'Jerry," 
 the little Adelphi, as it was then called, became a favourite 
 v.-ith the public. Its fortunes varied under different manage- 
 ments. Teny and Yates became (1825) the joint lessees 
 and managers. Teny was backed by Sir Walter Scott and 
 his friend Ballantyne, the printer, but Scott, in the sequel, 
 had to pay for both Ballantyne and himself. Charles 
 Mathews, in conjunction wdth Yates, leased the theatre, and 
 gave here (1828-31) his series of inimitable "At Homes." 
 Here John Reeve drew large houses, and obtained his reputa- 
 tion; and here Mr. Benjamin Webster (the present lessee), 
 and Madame Celeste (with true Adelphi "screamers") 
 maintain the former chai^acter of the establishment. Prices 
 of adinissio^n : — Boxes, 45. ; Pit, 2s. 
 
 The ROYAL LYCEUM THEATRE, or Royal Italian 
 Opera, is in the Strand, at the corner of Upper Welling-ton- 
 street ; it was built, 1834, by S. Beazley, architect (d. 1851). 
 The interior decorations were made in Madame Vestriss 
 time (1847), and are very beautiful. The theatre derives its 
 name fi'om an academy or exhibition room, built 1765, for 
 the Society of Arts, by Mr. James Payne, architect. It 
 was fir^rt converted into a theatre in 1790, and into an 
 English Opera House by Mr. Arnold ni 1809. The preceding 
 theatre (also the work of Mr. Beazley) was destroyed by fire, 
 Feb. 16th, 1830. This theatre was opened as an Italian Opera 
 in 1856, by Mr. Gye, on the destruction of Covent Garden 
 Theatre by fire. 
 
 Tlie PRINCESS'S THEATRE is in Oxford Street, 
 nearly opposite the Pantheon. Built 1830 ; let to Mr. Maddox 
 on lease at 2.600/. per annum, bat underlet (1854) to Mr. Kean 
 at a greater rental, and is one of the best theatres in London 
 for the purposes of a manager and the interests of the public. 
 
 N 2
 
 180 XX. — ASTLEY S. 
 
 The present lessee is Mr. Charles Keau. Prices of admission : — 
 Dress Circle, 55. ; Boxes, is. ; Tit, 2s. The property is held 
 under the Duke of Portland for a term of 60 years, from 
 July, ] 820, at a very low ground rent. 
 
 SADLER'S WELLS THEATRE, long a well-known place 
 of public amusement : first a music-house, and so called from 
 a spring of mineral water, discovered by one Sadler, in 1683, 
 in the garden of a house which he had newly opened as a 
 public music room, and called by his own name as " Sadler's 
 Ivlusic House." The New River flows pa«t the theatre, and 
 on great occasions has been carried under the stage, and the 
 flooring removed, for the exhibition of aquatic performances. 
 Here Grimaldi, the famous clown, achieved his greatest 
 triumphs. This admirable little theatre (for such it now is, 
 under the able management of Mr. Phelps, the actor) has for 
 some years maintained a well-deserved celebrity for the per- 
 formance of the plays of Shakspeare, Beaumont and Fletcher, 
 Massinger, &:c., in a way worthy of a larger theatre, and a 
 richer, but not a more crowded or enthusiastic audience. 
 
 ASTLEY'S AMPHITHEATRE, Westminster Bridge 
 Road, a theatre and circus, (lessee Mr. Cooke), well pa- 
 tronised, and the fourth building of the same nature on 
 the same site. The first amphitheatre on this spot was 
 a mere temporary erection of deal boards, built (1774:) 
 by Philip Astley, a light-horseman in the 15th or General 
 Elliot's regiment. It stood on what was then an open 
 piece of ground in St. George's Fields, through which the 
 New Cut ran, and to which a halfpenny hatch led. The 
 price of admission to the space without the railing of 
 the ride was 6d., and Astley himself, said to have been 
 the handsomest man in England, was the chief performer, 
 assisted by a drum, two fifes, and a clown of the name of 
 Porter. At first it was an open area. In 1780, it was con- 
 verted into a covered amphitheatre, and divided into pit, 
 boxes, and gallery. In 1786, it was newly fitted up, and 
 called the "Royal Grove," and in 1792, '"'The Royal Saloon, 
 or Astley's Amphitheatre." The entertainment, at first, was 
 only a day exhibition of horsemanship. Transparent fire- 
 works, slack-rope vaulting, Egyptian Pyramids, tricks on 
 chairs, tumbling, &c., were subsequently added, the ride 
 enlarged, and the house opened in the evening. It is now 
 both theatre and amphitheatre. Astley's amphitheatre 
 has been thrice destroyed by fire — in 1794, in 1803, and 
 in 1841.
 
 XX. — ST. James's theatre. 181 
 
 " Base Buonaparte, fill'd with deadly ire, 
 Sets, one by one, our playhouses on iire. 
 Some years ago he pounced with deadly glee on 
 The Opera House, then burnt down the Pantheon; 
 Thy hatch, O Halfpenny ! pass'd in a trice, 
 Boil'd some black pitch, and burnt down Astley's twice." 
 
 Bejected Addresses. 
 
 Mr. Ducrow, who had been one of Astley's riders and became 
 manager, died insane soon after the fire in 1841. Old Astley, 
 who was born at Newcastle- vmder-Line in 1742, died in Paris, 
 Oct. 20, 1814. For the equestrian performances in the circus 
 (the leading attraction) you need not go before 9 at night. 
 
 The VICTORIA THEATRE is in ^yATERLOO Bridge 
 Road, Lambeth. It was oi-iginally Tlie Cohurg, and called 
 The Victoria for the first time soon after the accession of 
 William IV., when her present Majesty was only heir pre- 
 sumptive to the crown. The gallery at the " Vic " (for such 
 is its brief cognomen about Lambeth) is one of the largest in 
 London. It will hold fi'om 1500 to 2000 people, and runs 
 back to so great a distance that the end of it is lost in shadow, 
 excepting where the little gas-jets, against the wall, light up 
 the two or three fiices around them. When the gallery is 
 well packed, it is usual to see piles of boys on each other's 
 shoulders at the back, while on the partition-boards, dividing 
 off the slips, lads will pitch themselves despite the spikes. 
 
 The SURREY or CIRCUS THEATRE, in Elackfriars 
 Road, was built (1805-6) on the site of a former edifice 
 desti'oyed by fire in 1805. Elliston leased it for a time ; and, 
 subsequently, the late Mr. Davidge acquired a handsome 
 fortune by his management. John Palmer, the actor (d. 
 1798), played here while a prisoner within the Rules of the 
 King's Bench. The large sums he received, and the way in 
 which he squandered his money, is said to have suggested 
 the clause in the then Debtors' Act, which made all public- 
 houses and places of amusement out of the Rules. This house 
 is chiefly supported by the inhabitants of Southwark and 
 Lambeth. 
 
 The ST. JAMES'S THEATRE is a small neat edifice, on 
 the south side of King Street, St. James's, built by Beazley 
 for Braham, the singer. During the summer it is usually 
 appropi-iated to the performances of a French company of 
 actors, and in the height of the London season is v.'ell 
 frequented. The prices of admission vary every season.
 
 182 XX. — ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. 
 
 Tlie SOHO THEATRE (late Miss Kelly's) 73 Dean 
 Street, Soho, and is let to private parties for amateur 
 theatricals. The house will hold 700 people. 
 
 EXETER HALL, in the Strand. A large proprietaiy 
 building on the N. side of the Strand, built (1831) from the 
 designs of J. P. Deering, but altered in the ceiling and 
 lengthened about 40 feet, in 1850, by Mr. S. W. Daukes. 
 Tlie Hall is 131 feet long, 76 feet wide (?. e. 8 feet wider than 
 Westminster Hall), and 45 feet high ; and will contain, iu 
 comfort, more than 3000 persons. It is let for the annual 
 " May Meetings" of the several religious societies, and for the 
 concerts of the Sacred Harmonic Society, in w^hich the un- 
 rivalled music of Handel is at times performed, with a cl'iorus 
 of 700 voices accompanying it. Tickets may be had at the 
 principal music-sellers, and at offices adjoining the Hall. 
 
 ST. MARTIN'S HALL, Long Acre. A place for monthly 
 concerts, &c. Erected iu 1850 for Mr. John Hullah. 
 
 ALMACK'S is a suite of Assembly-rooms in King Street, 
 St. James's, built (1765) by Robert Mylne, architect, and 
 called Almack's after the original proprietor, and occasionally 
 " Willis's Rooms," after the present proprietor. The balls 
 called '"Almack's," for which these rooms are famous, are 
 managed by a Committee of Ladies of high rank, and the 
 only mode of admission is by vouchers or personal intro- 
 duction. Almack kept the Thatched House Tavern, St. 
 James's-street, on the site of which stands the Conservative 
 Club. The rooms are let for concerts, general meetings, and 
 public balls. 
 
 The ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, in Regent's Park, be- 
 long to the Zoological Society of London, a Society instituted 
 in 1826, for the advancement of Zoology, and the introduction 
 and exhibition of the Animal Kingdom alive or pi'operly 
 preserved. The principal founders wei'e Sir Humphry Davy, 
 and Sir Stamford RafHes. Visitors are admitted to the Gardens 
 of the Society without orders on Monday in every week, at 
 &d. eacli ; on the following days at \s. each ; children at %d. 
 The Gardens are open from 9 in the morning till sunset. The 
 rooms of the Society are at No. 11, Hanover-square. A mem- 
 ber's fee on admission is 5^., and his annual subscription 3/. 
 These Gardens are among the best of our London sights, and 
 should be seen by every stranger in London. The giraffes 
 and rattle-snakes are verj' rare and fine, but the recent attrac.
 
 XXI. ROYAL SOCIETY. 183 
 
 tioDS of the Gardens have been a pair of Hippopotami, pre- 
 sented by the Viceroy of Egypt, the first ever brought to this 
 country, the Elephant Calf, the Uran Utan from Singapore, 
 the Apteryx from New Zealand, and the Vivarium. Here 
 was shown the collection of stuffed humming birds, the 
 property of Mi*. Gould, author of the " Birds of Europe," 
 '•' Birds of Australia," &c. ; allowed by ornithologists to be 
 the finest in the world. Mr. Gould's collection consists of 
 about 2000 specimens of 300 species, ari-anged in upwai'ds 
 of 40 glass cases, each of which contains a genus, and every 
 pane or compartment a species in different states of age and 
 ■colour. The collection of living snakes is the largest ever 
 formed in Europe. The band of the Fu'st Life Guards is 
 often to be heard here on Saturday at 4. The pelicans are 
 fed at half-past 2 ; otters at 3 ; eagles at half-past 3 (\Yedne5- 
 days excepted) ; and lions and tigers at 4. 
 
 XXI.-LEARNED INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 The ROYAL SOCIETY, in Somerset House (on your left 
 as you enter the vestibule), was incorporated by royal charter 
 in 16G3, King Charles II. and the Duke of York (James 11.) 
 entering their names as members of the Society. Like the 
 Society df Antiquaries, and perhaps all other institutions, this 
 celebrated Society (boasting of the names of Xewton, Vrren, 
 Halley, Herschel, Davy, and Watt, among its members) 
 originated in a small attendance of men engaged in the same 
 pursuits, and dates its beginning from certain weekly meet- 
 ings held in London, as early as the year 1645. The merit 
 of suggesting such meetings is assigned by Wallis (himself a 
 foundation member) to Theodore Haak, a German of the 
 Palatinate, then resident in London. The Civil "War inter- 
 rupted their piu-suits for a time ; but with the Restoration of 
 the King, a fresh accession of strength was obtained, new 
 members enlisted, and the charter of incorporation gi'anted. 
 The Society consists at present of about 766 "Fellows," and 
 the letters F.R.S. are generally appended to the name of a 
 membei*. The present entrance money is 107. and the annual 
 subscription 4/. ; members are elected by ballot, upon the 
 nomination of 6 or more fellows. The patron saint of the 
 Society is St. Andrew, and the anniversary meeting is held 
 every 30th of November, being St. Andrew's Day. The pre- 
 sent President is the Earl of Rosse, distinguished for the
 
 184 XXI. — ROYAL ACADE]MY. 
 
 discoveries lie is making with his great telescope. The 
 Society possesses some interesting portraits. Observe. — 
 Three portraits of Sir Isaac Newton — one by C. Jervas, pre- 
 sented by Xewton himself, and properly suspended over the 
 President's chair — a second in the Library, by D. C. Mar- 
 cliand — and a third in the Assistant Secretary's Office, by 
 VanderbanJc ; two portraits of Halley, by Thomas Murray and 
 Dalil ; two of Hobbes — one taken in 1663 by, says Aubrey, 
 "a good hand" — and the other by Gaspars, pi'esented by 
 Aubrey; Sir Christopher Wren, by /^we^/er; Wallis, by *Soes« / 
 Flamstead, by Gibson ; Kobert Boyle, by F. Ktrseboom, 
 (Evelyn says it is like); Pepys, by Kneller, presented by Pepys ; 
 Lord Somers, by Kneller ; Sir R. Southwell, by Kneller ; Sir 
 H. Spelman, the antiquary, by Mytens (how it came here I 
 know not); Sir Hans Sloane, by Kneller ; Dr. Birch, by Wills, 
 the original of the mezzotint done by Faber in 1741, be- 
 queathed by Birch ; Martin Folkes, by Hogarth ; Dr. Wollas- 
 ton, by JacJcson ; Sir Humphry Davy, by Sir T. Lawrence. 
 Observe also. — The mace of silver gilt (similar to the maces 
 of the Lord Chancellor, the Speaker, and President of the 
 College of Physicians), presented to the Society by Charles IL 
 in 1662. The belief so long entertained that it was the 
 mace or " bauble," as Cromwell called it, of the Long Parlia- 
 ment, has been comj^letely refuted by Mr. Weld producing 
 the original waiTant of the year 1662, for the special making 
 of this vei*y mace. — A solar dia], made by Sir Isaac Newton 
 when a boy ; a reflecting telescope, made in 1671, by NcAvton's 
 own hands ; MS. of the Principia, in Newton's own hand- 
 writing ; lock of Newton's hair, silver white ; MS. of the 
 Parentalia, by young Wren ; Charter Book of the Society, 
 bound in crimson velvet, containing the signatures of the 
 Fovmder and Fellows ; a Rumford fire-place, one of the first 
 set up ; original model of Sir Humphry Davy's Safety Lamp, 
 made by his own hands; marble bust of Mrs. Somerville, by 
 Chantrey. The Society possesses a Donation Fund, esta- 
 blished to aid men of science iu their researches, and distributes 
 four medals : a Rumfoi'd gold medal, two Royal medals, and 
 a Copley gold medal, called by Davy " the ancient olive 
 crown of the Royal Society." 
 
 ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS, Trafalgar Square, 
 located E. wing of the National Gallery, constituted 1768. 
 Its principal objects are — 1. The establishment of a well- 
 regulated "School, or Academy of Design," for the use of 
 students in the art; and, 2. An "annual exhibition," open 
 to all artists of distinguished merit, where they might offer
 
 XXr. — ROYAL ACADEiir. 185 
 
 their performances to public inspection, and acquire that 
 degree of reputation and encouragement which they should 
 be deemed to deserve. It is called by its members "a 
 piivate society, supporting a school that is open to the 
 public." The members are under the superintendence and 
 control of the Queen only, who confirms all appointments ; 
 and the society itself consists of 40 Royal Academicians 
 (including a President), 20 Associates, and 6 Associate 
 Engravers. The Royal Academy derives the whole of its 
 funds from the produce of its annual exhibition, to which the 
 price of admission is Is., and the catalogue Is, The average 
 annual receipts are about 6000Z. The annual exhibition opens 
 the first Monday in May, and works intended for exhibition 
 must be sent in at least three weeks or a month before — but 
 of this due notice is given in all the public papers. No 
 works whicii have been already exhibited ; no copies of any 
 kind (excepting paintings on enamel); no mere transcripts of 
 the objects of natural history ; no vignette portraits, nor any 
 drawings without backgi'ounds (excepting architectural de- 
 signs), can be received. Xo artist is allowed to exhibit more 
 than 8 different works. Honorary exhibitors (or rmprofes- 
 sional artists) are limited to one. All works sent for 
 exhibition are submitted to the approval or rejection of the 
 council, whose decision is final, and may be ascertained by 
 application at the Academy in the week after they have been 
 left there. 
 
 Mode of ohtaining Admission. — Any person desiring to be- 
 come a student of the Royal Academy presents a dx-awing or 
 model of his own performance to the keeper, which, if con- 
 sidered by him a proof of sufficient ability, is laid before the 
 Council, together ^^-ith a testimony of his moral character, 
 from an Academician, or other known person of respectability. 
 If these are approved by the Council, the candidate is per- 
 mitted to make a drawing or model from one of the antique 
 figures in the Academy, and the space of three months from 
 the time of receiving such permission is allowed for that 
 purpose ; the time of his attendance is from 10 o'clock in the 
 morniDg until 3 in the afternoon. This drawing or model, 
 when finished, is laid before the Council, accompanied with 
 outline drawings of an anatomical figure and skeleton, not less 
 than two feet high, with lists and references, on each drawing, 
 of the several muscles, tendons, and bones contained therein, 
 together with the drawing or model originally presented for 
 his admission as a probationer: if approved, the candidate is 
 accepted as a student of the Royal Academy, and receives in 
 form the ticket of his admission from the hand of the keeper
 
 186 XXI. — ROYAL ACADEMY OF MUSIC. 
 
 in the Antique School. If the specimen presented be rejected 
 by the Council, he is not allowed to continue drawing in the 
 Academy. The rule for architectural students is of a like 
 character. 
 
 The first president was Sir Joshua Reynolds — the pi-esent 
 president is Sir Charles Lock Eastlake. The 10th of 
 February is the day on which the vacancies in the list of 
 Koyal Academicians are filled up ; November the month for 
 electing Associates, and the 10th of December the day for the 
 annual distribution of prizes. The Royal Academy possesses 
 a fine library of books of prints, and a large collection of casts 
 from the antique, and several interesting pictures by old 
 masters. The library is open to the students. Each mem- 
 ber on his election presents a picture, or a work of art, of his 
 own design and execution, to the collection of the Academy. 
 The series thus obtained is interesting in the history of 
 British art. Observe aviong tloe Diploma pictures. — Portrait 
 of Sir William Chambers, the architect, by Sir Joshvxt 
 Reynolds (very fine) ; Portrait of Reynolds in his Doctor's 
 Robes, by himself (very fine) ; Boys digging for a rat, by 
 Sir David Wilkie. Works of Art in the j^ossession of the 
 Academy.— 1. Cartoon of the Holy Fiimily, in black chalk, 
 by L. Da Vinci ; executed with extreme care, and engi'aved 
 by Anker Smith (veiy fine) ; the Holy Virgin is repre- 
 sented on the lap of St. Anne, her mother ; she bends down 
 tenderly to the infant Christ, who plays with a lamb, 
 2. Bas-relief, in marble, of the Holy Family, by Michael 
 Angelo ; presented by Sir George Beaumont. St. John is 
 presenting a dove to the child Jesus, who shrinks from 
 it and shelters himself in the arms of his mother, who 
 seems gently reproving Sfc. John for his hastiness, and 
 putting him back with her hand. The child is finished 
 and the mother in great part : the St. John is only sketched, 
 but in a most masterly style. 3. Copy, in oil, of Da Vinci's 
 Last Supper (size of the original), by Marco cVOggione, 
 a scholar of Leonardo, and is very valuable, perhaps 
 representing more exactly Leonardo's grand design than the 
 original itself in its present mutilated state at Milan. This 
 was formerly in the Certosa at Pavia. 4. Marble bust of 
 Wilton, the sculptor, by Rouhiliac. The mode of obtain- 
 ing admission to vicAV these pictures, &c., is by a written 
 application to the keeper, addressed " Charles Landseer, Esq., 
 R.A., Royal Academy of Arts, Trafalgar Square." 
 
 ROYAL ACADEMY OF MUSIC, 4, Tenterden Street, 
 Hanover Square. Founded (1822) by the present Earl of
 
 XXI. — COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS. 187 
 
 "Westmoreland, who confided its organisation and general 
 <3irection to Bochsia, the composer and harpist, at that time 
 director to the Italian Opera in London. This is an academy, 
 Tvith in-door and out-door Students, the in-door paying 50 
 guineas a-year and 10 guineas entrance fee ; and the out-door, 
 30 guineas a-year and 5 guineas entrance fee. Some previous 
 knowledge is required, and the students must provide them- 
 selves with the instruments they propose or are appointed 
 to learn. There is a large Musical Libraiy. Four scholar- 
 ships, called King's Scholarsiiips, have been founded by the 
 Academy, two of which, one male and one female, are con- 
 tended for annually at Christmas. 
 
 ROYAL COLLEGE OF PHYSICL-VXS, in Pall Mall 
 East, corner of Trafalgar Square, was built by Sir R. Smirke, 
 for 30,000^., and opened (25th June, 1S25) with a Latin oration 
 by Sh' Henry Halford. The College was founded by Linacre, 
 physician to Henry YIII. The members, at its first institu- 
 tion, met in the founder's house in Kuightrider-street on the 
 site of No. 5, still (by Linacre's bequest) in the possession of 
 the College. From the founder's house they moved to 
 Amen-corner (wliere Harvey read his lectures on the discovery 
 of the circulation of the blood) ; from thence (1674), after 
 the Great Fire, to AYarwick-lane (where Wren built them a 
 college which still remains), and from War wick-lane and 
 the stalls about Xewgate Market to their present College 
 in Pall-mall East. Ohserve. — In the gallery above the 
 library seven preparations by Harvey, discoverer of the 
 circulation of the blood, and a very large number by Dr. 
 Matthew Baillie. — The engraved portrait of Harvey, by 
 Jansen, three-qtiarter, seated ; head of Sir Thomas Browne, 
 author of " Religio Medici ; " three-quarter of Sir Theodore 
 Mayerne, physician to James I. ; three-quarter of Sir Edmund 
 King, the pliysician who bled King Charles II. iu a fit, on 
 his oicn responsibility : head of Di\ Sydenham, by Mary 
 Beale; three-quarter of Dr. Radcliffe, by Kndlerj Sir Hans 
 Sloane, by Richardson; Sir Samuel Garth, by Kneller ; 
 Dr. Freind. three-quarter, seated ; Di'. Mead, three-quarter, 
 seated ; Dr. "Warren, by Gainsborough; "William Hunter, 
 three-quarter, seated ; Dr. Heberden. Busts. — George IV., 
 by Chantrcy (one of his finest); Dr. Mead, by Roiihiliac ; 
 Dr. Sydenham, by Wilton (from the picture) ; Harvey, 
 by Sdieemahcrs (from the pictured ; Dr. Baillie, by Chantrey 
 (from a model by Kollekens) ; Dr. Babington, by Bthnes. 
 — Dr. Radcliffe's gold-headed cane, successively carried by 
 Drs. Radcliffe, Mead, Askew, Pitcairu, and Matthew Baillie
 
 188 XXI. — heralds' college. 
 
 (pi'esented to tlie College by Mrs. Baillie) ; and a clever 
 little picture, by Zoffany, of Hunter delivering a lecture on 
 anatomy before the members of the Eoyal Academy — all 
 portraits. Mode of Admission. — Order from a fellow. Almost 
 every physician of eminence in London is a fellow. 
 
 EOYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, Lincoln's Inn 
 Fields. See Permanent Free Exhibitions^ p. 172. 
 
 THE HERALDS' COLLEGE, or College of Arms, is in 
 Doctors' Commons. The apartments of Garter King at Arms, 
 at the iSr.E. corner, were bviilt at the expense of Sir William 
 Dugdale, Garter in the reign of Charles IL Here is the Earl 
 Marshal's Office, once an important court, but now of little con- 
 sequence. It was sometime called the Court of Honour, and 
 took cognizance of words supposed to reflect upon the nobility. 
 The appointment of Heralds is in the gift of the Duke of 
 Norfolk, as hereditary Earl Marshal. The College consists of 
 3 Kings — Garter, Clarencieus, and Norroy ; of 6 Heralds — • 
 Lancaster, Somerset, Richmond, Windsor, York, and Chester; 
 and of 4 Pursuivants — Rouge Croix, Blue Mantle, Portcullis, 
 and Rouge Dragon. The several appointments are in the 
 gift of the Duke of Norfolk, as hereditary Eai'l Marshal. 
 CthbraUd Offi'xrs of the College. — William Camden, Claren- 
 cieux ; Sir William Dugdale, Garter ; Elias Ashmole, founder 
 of the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford, Windsor Herald; 
 Francis Sandford, author of the Genealogical History of 
 'England, Luoicaster Ilercdd ; John Anstis, Garter; Sir John 
 Vanbrugh, the poet, Clarencieux ; Francis Grose, author of 
 Grose's Antiquities, Richmond Herald ; William Oldys, Norroy 
 King at Arms; Lodge ("Lodge's Portraits"), Clarencieux. 
 Two escutcheons, one bearing the arms (and legs) of the Isle 
 of Man, and the other the eagle's claw, ensigns of the house 
 of Stanley, still to be seen on the S. side of the quadrangle, 
 denote the site of old Derby House, in which the Heralds were 
 located before the Great Fire of London. Observe. — Sword, 
 dagger, and turquoise ring, belonging to James lY. of Scotland, 
 who fell at Flodden -field, presented to the college by the 
 Duke of Norfolk, temp. Charles II. 
 
 " They produce a better evidence of James's death than the iron-belt 
 — the monarch's sword and dagger, Avhicli are still preserved in the 
 Heralds' College in London."— ^St/- Walter Scott {Note to JIarmion). 
 
 Portrait of Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury (the great warrior), 
 fromhistomb in old St. Paul's. Roll of Arms (temp. HenryllL),
 
 XXI. SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES. 189 
 
 copied 1586 by Glover (Somerset Herald), and said to be the 
 earliest record we possess relative to Englisli HerakUy. 
 The arms are blazoued or described in woi'ds, not pictured. 
 Roll of the Tournament holden at Westminster, in honour 
 of Queen Katherine, upon the biiih of Prince Henry (1510) : 
 a most curious roll, engraved in the Monumenta Vetusta, 
 Vol. I. — The Rous or Warwick roll : a series of figures of all 
 the Eai'ls of Warwick, from the Conquest to the reign of 
 Richard III., executed by Eous, the antiquary of Warwick, 
 at the close of the fifteenth century. — Pedigree of the Saxon 
 Kings, from Adam, illustrated with many beautiful drawings 
 in pen-and-ink (temp. Henry VIII.) of the Creation, Adam 
 and Eve in Paradise, the Building of Babel, Rebuilding of the 
 Temple, &c. — MSS., consisting chiefly of Herald's visitations; 
 records of grants of arms and royal licences ; records of 
 modern pedigi'ees (i. e. since the discontinuance of the visita- 
 tions in 1687) ; a most valuable collection of official funeral 
 certificates ; a portion of the Arundel MSS. ; the Shrewsbury 
 or Cecil papers, from which Lodge derived his Illustrations 
 of British History; notes, &c., made by Glover, Vincent, 
 Philipot, and Dugdale ; a volume in the hand\^i-iting of the 
 venerable Camden ; the collections of Sir Edward Walker, 
 Secretary at War (temp. Charles I.). 
 
 SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES has apartments in Somer- 
 set House, first door on your left as you enter the vestibule. 
 The Society was founded in 1707, by Wanley, Bagford, and 
 a Mi\ Talman. George II., in 1751, granted them a charter ; 
 and in 1777. George III. gave them the apartments they still 
 occupy. The terms at present are, 5 guineas admission, and 
 2 guineas annually. Members are elected by ballot on the 
 recommendation of at least three Fellows. The letters F.S.A. 
 are generally appended to the names of members. Their 
 Tx-ansactions, called the Archaeologia, commence in 1770, and 
 contain much minute, but too often irrelevant, information. 
 Days of meeting, every Thursday at 8, from November to 
 June, Anniversary meeting, April 23rd. The Society pos- 
 sesses a Library and Museum. Observe. — Household Book 
 of Jocky of Norfolk. — A large and interesting Collection of 
 Eaidy Proclamations, interspersed with Early Ballads, many 
 unique. — T. Porter's Map of Loudon (temp. Charles I.), once 
 thought to be tmique. — A folding Picture on Panel of the 
 Preaching at Old St. Paul's m 1616.— Early Portraits of 
 Edward IV. and Richard III., engraved for the Third Series 
 of Ellis's Letters. — Three-quarter Portrait of Mary I., with 
 the monogram of Lucas de Heere, and the date 1544. —
 
 190 XXI. — INSTITUTION OF BRITISH ARCHITECTS. 
 
 Poi-trait of Marquis of Wincliester (d. 1571), (curious). — 
 Portrait by Sir Antonio More of John Schoreel, a Flemish 
 painter (More was the scholar of Schoreel). — Portraits of 
 Antiquaries: Burton, the Leicestershire antiquary ; Peter le 
 Neve ; Humphrey Wauley ; Baker, of St. John's College ; 
 William Stukeley ; George" Yertue ; Edward, Earl of Oxford, 
 presented by Vertue. — A Bohemian Astronomical Clock of 
 Gilt Brass, made by Jacob Zech in 1525, for Sigismund, King 
 of Poland, and bought at the sale of the effects of James 
 Ferguson, the astronomer. — Spur of Brass Gilt, found on 
 Towton Field, the scene of the conflict between Edward IV. 
 and the Lancastrian Forces. Upon the shanks is engraved 
 the folloTvang posy :—'• til lotal amobr tflut mDii co^r." 
 For admission to the Museum apply by letter to "J. Y. Aker- 
 man, Esq., F.S.A., Secretary to the Society of Antiquaries, 
 Somerset House." 
 
 IXSTITUTIO: OF CIYIL EXGIXEERS, 25, Great 
 George Street, Westminster. Established 1818 ; incor- 
 porated 1828. The Institution consists of Members resident 
 in London, paying 4 guineas annually, and Members not 
 resident, 3 guineas annually : of Associates resident in London, 
 paj-ing 3 guineas annually, and Associates not resident, 2^ 
 guineas; of Graduates resident in London, paying 2| guineas 
 annually, and Gradl^ates not resident, 2 guineas ; and of 
 Honorary Members. The ordinary General Meetings are 
 held every Tuesday at 8 p.m., from the second Tuesday in 
 January to the end of June. Tlie first president was Thomas 
 Telford (1820-31); the .second, James Vr^alker (1835-45); 
 the third, Su' John Rennie ; and the present one, J. M. 
 Eendle, Esq. Ohserve. — Portrait of Thomas Telford, engineer 
 of the Menai Bridge, and President of the Institution for 
 14 years. 
 
 ROYAL INSTITUTE OF BRITISH ARCHITECTS, U, 
 Lower Grosvenor Street, Grosvenor Square. Founded 
 1834, for the advancement of architecture, and incorporated 
 1837. There are three classes of Members : — 1. Fellows : archi- 
 tects engiged as principals for at least seven years in the 
 practice of civil architecture. 2. Associates : persons engaged 
 in the study of civil architecture, or in practice less than seven 
 years, and who have attained the age of 21. 3. Honorary 
 Fellows. The Meetings are held every alternate Monday at 
 8 P.M., from the first Monday in November till the end of 
 June inclusive. Associate's admission fee, 1 guinea ; Fellow's 
 admission fee, 5 guineas. There is a good library of books 
 on architecture.
 
 XXI. — ROYAL SOCIETY OF LITERATURE. 191 
 
 EOYAL INSTITUTION OF GREAT BRITAIN, a 
 Libraiy, Reading, and Lecture Room, 21, Albemarle 
 Street, Piccadilly. Established 179l>, at a meeting held 
 at the house of Sir Joseph Banks, for diffusing the knowledge 
 and facilitating the general introduction of useful mechanical 
 inventions and improvements, &c. Count Rumford was its 
 earliest promoter. The front — a row of Corinthian columns 
 half-engaged — was designed by Mr. Vulliamy, architect, from 
 the Custom House at Rome ; and what before was little better 
 than a perforated brick-Avall, was thus converted into an 
 ornamental fayade. Here is an excellent library of general 
 reference, and a good reading room, with weekly courses of 
 lectures, throughout the season, on Chemical Philosophy^ 
 Physiology, Chemical Science, &c. The principal lecturers 
 are Professors Fai-aday and Brande. Members (candidates to 
 be proposed by four members) are elected by ballot, and a 
 majority of two- thirds is necessary for election. The admission 
 fee is 5 guineas, and the annual subscription 5 guinea?. Sub- 
 scribers to the Theatre Lectures only, or to the Laboratory 
 Lectures only, pay 2 guineas; subscribers to both pay 3 
 guineas for the season ; subscribers to a single course of the 
 Theatre Lectures pay 1 guinea, A syllabus of each course 
 may be obtained of the Secretary at the Institution. The 
 Friday Evening Meetings, at which some eminent person is 
 invited to deliver a popular lectvire on some subject connected 
 with science, art, or literature, are generally well attended. 
 Non-subscribers may be admitted to them by a ticket signed 
 by a member. Mr. Harris's printed catalogue of the Library is 
 methodically digested and very useful. In the Laboratory, 
 Davy made his great discoveries on the metallic bases of the 
 earths, aided by the large galvanic apparatus of the 
 establishment. 
 
 SOCIETY OF ARTS, in John Street, Adelphi, is an old 
 society, trying to regain strength and to accomplish greater 
 good than it seems likely to effect. Many of the directors 
 were intimately connected with the Great Exhibition, in 
 Hyde Park, in 1851. Here are temporary exhibitions of 
 manufact vires, and six pictures by James Barry, painted 
 1777-83, and creditable to the then state of art in England. 
 
 ROYAL SOCIETY OF LITERATURE, 4, St. Martin's 
 Place, Charing Cross. Founded in 1823, " for the advance- 
 ment of literature," and incorporated 1826. George IV. gave 
 1100 guineas a-year to this Society, which has the merit of 
 rescuing the last years of Coleridge's life from complete
 
 192 XXI. — ROYxVL ASIATIC SOCIETY. 
 
 dependence on a friend, and of placing the learned Dr. 
 Jamieson above the wants and necessities of a man fast 
 sinking to the grave. The annual grant of 1100 guineas was 
 discontinued by William IV., and the Society has since sank 
 into a Transaction Society, with a small but increasing 
 libraiy. The opposition of Sir Walter Scott to the formation 
 of a literary society of this kind was highly injurious to its 
 success. " The immediate and direct favour of the sove- 
 reign," says Scott, " is v/ortli the patronage of ten thousand 
 societies." 
 
 LONDON INSTITUTION, Finsbury Circus, Moor- 
 fields. A proprietary institution, established in 1806, 
 in Sir William Clayton's house, Old Jewry. The first 
 stone of the present edifice was laid May 4, 1815, and the 
 building (which affords an admirable combination of archi- 
 tectural skill and suitability to its purpose) was opened 
 April 21, 1819. The architect was Mr. William Brooks, who 
 also built the neighbouring Finsbury Chapel, Dudley Church, 
 &c. The library, consisting of upwards of 60,000 volumes, is 
 particularly rich in topographical works. The celebrated 
 and eccentric antiquary, William Upcott, was one of its 
 librarians. 
 
 GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, Somerset 
 House. Established 1807. The Museum of geological speci- 
 mens, fossils, &;c., not only British, but from all quarters of 
 the globe, is extensive, though not perfectly arranged. It 
 may be seen by the introduction of a member. The museum 
 and library are open every day from 11 till 5. The number 
 of Fellows is about 875, and the time of meeting half-past 8 
 o'clock in the evening of alternate Wednesdays, from Novem- 
 ber to June inclusive. The Society has published its Trans- 
 actions, which now adopt the form of a quarterly journal. 
 Entrance money, 6 guineas; annual subscription, 3 guineas. 
 
 EOYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, \Vhitehall- 
 Place, established 1830, for the improvement and diffusion 
 of geographical knowledge. Elections by ballot. Entrance 
 fee, 2)1. ; annual subscription, 21. There is a small but good 
 geographical library. 
 
 ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY, 5, New Burlington Street, 
 (founded 1823,) contains an interesting collection of Oriental 
 arms and armour. Observe. — The Malay spears mounted 
 with gold; the pair of Coylonese jiugals, or grasshoppers,
 
 XXII. — UNIVERSITY OF LONDON. 193 
 
 mounted -with silver, takeu iu the Khandyan war of 1815 ; a 
 complete suit of Persian armour, inlaid -svith gold ; a Bengal 
 sabre;, termed a kharg ; Cevlouese hog-spears, and Lahore 
 arrows ; a sculptm-ed column of great beauty, from the 
 gateway of a temple in Mahore : and statues of Dm'ga, Surga, 
 and Buddha, that deserve attention. The Society usually 
 meets on the first and thh-d Saturdays in every month, from 
 November to June inclusive. Admission fee, 5 guineas; 
 annual subscription, 3 guineas. 
 
 A large City like London, the centre as it may be called of 
 human intelligence, contains Institutions for the advance- 
 ment of every species of knowledge. Besides those already 
 mentioned, I will add : — the Horticultural Society, No. 21, 
 Regent Sti-eet ; the Linncean Society, 32, Soho Squai'e ; Royal 
 Astronomical Society in Somerset House; and the Statistical 
 Society, No. 12, St. James's Square. There are also Societies 
 for printing books connected with particular subjects, such as 
 the Camden, Shakspeare, Hakluyt, and the Arundel, for 
 engraving the works of early Italian and German masters. 
 At No. 12, St. James's Square, is the admirably managed Zonc?07z. 
 Library, a public subscription circulating library, possessing 
 60,000 volumes — entrance fee, 61. ; annual subscription, 21. 
 There is a printed catalogue of the libmry, price Ss. 
 
 XXII.-COLLEGES AND SCHOOLS. 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF LONDON, Burlington HorsE, Picca- 
 DILLT, is a government institution, or Board of Examiners, 
 established 1S37, for conferring degi'ees, after careful examina- 
 tions, on the gi-aduates of University College, London ; 
 King's College, London ; Stepney College, Highbuiy College, 
 Homerton College, &:c. ; in other words, "for the advance- 
 ment of religion and morality, and the promotion of useful 
 knowledge without distinction of rank, sect, or party." There 
 are sevei-al scholarships attached, each with 50^. a year. The 
 salary of the Registi'ar and Treasurer is 500?. a year. The 
 institute has nothing to do with the business of education, 
 being constituted for the sole purpose of ascertaining the 
 proficiency of candidates for academical distinctions. The 
 examinations are half-yearly. 
 
 UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, London, on the east side of 
 Upper Gower Street. A proprietary institution, " for the 
 general advancement of literatm-e and science, by affording 
 to young men adequate opportunities for obtaining literary 
 
 o
 
 194 XXII. — UNIVERSITY OF LONDON. 
 
 and scientific education at a moderate expense ; " founded 
 (1828) by the exertions of Lord Brougham, Thomas Campbell, 
 the poet, and others, and built from the designs of W. 
 Wilkins, E.A., architect of the National Gallery and of St. 
 George's Hospital at Hyde-Park-cornei\ Graduates of the 
 University of London from University College are entitled 
 Doctors of Laws, Masters of Arts, Bachelors of Law, Bachelors 
 of Medicine, and Bachelors of Art. Everything is taught in 
 the College but divinity. The school of medicine is de- 
 servedly distinguished. The Junior School, under the 
 government of the Council of the College, is entered by a 
 separate entrance in Upper Gower-street. The school session 
 is divided into three terms : viz., fi-om the 26th of September 
 to Christmas, from Christmas to Easter, from Easter to the 
 4th of August. The vacations are three weeks at Christmas, 
 ten days at Easter, and seven weeks in the summer. The 
 hours of attendance are from a quarter past 9 to three- 
 quarters past 3 ; in which time one hour and a quarter is 
 allowed for recreation. The yearly payment for each pupil 
 is 18^., of which 61. are paid in advance in each term, on the 
 first day after the vacation on which the pupil begins to 
 attend the school. The payments are made at the oflfice of 
 the College. A fixed charge of 3^. 6d. a term is made for 
 stationery. Books and drawing materials are provided for 
 the pupils as required, and a charge is made accordingly. 
 Boys are admittecl to the school at any age under fifteen, if 
 they are competent to enter the lowest class. When a boy 
 has attained his sixteenth year, he will not be allowed to 
 remain in the school beyond the end of the ctirrent session. 
 The subjects taught are reading, writing ; the English, 
 Latin, Greek, French, and German languages ; Ancient and 
 English history ; geography, both physical and political ; 
 arithmetic and book-keeping, the elements of mathematics 
 and of natural philosophy, drawing, dancing, &c. The disci- 
 pline of the school is maintained without corporal i^unish- 
 ment. The extreme punishment for misconduct is the 
 removal of the pupil from the school. Several of the pro- 
 fessors, and some of the masters of the Jtmior School receive 
 students to reside with them ; and in the office of the College 
 there is kept a register of parties unconnected with the 
 College who receive boarders into their families : among 
 these are several medical gentlemen. The Eegistrar will 
 afford information as to terms, and other pai-ticulars. 
 
 TJie Flaxman Museum. — In the hall under the cupola of 
 the College the original models are preserved of the prin- 
 cipal plaster works, statues, bas-reliefs, &c., of John Flaxman,
 
 XXII. — king's college. — ST. Paul's school, 195 
 
 E.A., the greatest of our English sculptors. The Pastoral 
 Apollo, the St. Michael, aud some of the bas-reliefs, are 
 amazingly fine. Tlie clever poi-trait statue in marble of Flax- 
 man, by the late M. L. "Watson, and exhibited in the Crystal 
 Palace, has been purchased by public subscription, and vnll 
 be placed on the stairs as you enter the Fiaxman Grallery. 
 
 KING'S COLLEGE AXD SCHOOL. A proprietary in- 
 stitution, occupying the east whig of Somei-set House, which 
 •was built up to receive it, having been before left incomplete. 
 The College was founded in 1S2S, upon the following funda- 
 mental principle : — •'•' That every system of general education 
 for the youth of a Christian community ought to comprise 
 instruction in the Christiaji religion as an indispensable part, 
 withotit which the acquisition of other branches of knowledge 
 will be conducive neither to the happiness of the indi^-idual 
 nor the welfare of the state." The general education of the 
 College is cai'ried on in five departments : — 1. Theological 
 Department ; 2. Department of General Literature and 
 Science : 3. Department of the Apphed Sciences ,: 4. Medical 
 Department ; 5. The School. Eveiy pei-son wishing to place 
 a pupil in the school must produce, to the head-master, a cer- 
 tificate of good conduct, signed by his last instructor. The 
 general age for admission is from 9 to 16 years of age. 
 Rooms are provided within the walls of the College for the 
 residence of a hmited number of matriculated students. 
 Each proprietor has the privilege of nominating two pupils 
 to the School, or one to the School and one to the College at 
 the same time. The Museum contains the Calculating 
 Machine of Mx\ Babbage, deposited by the Commissioners of 
 the Woods aud Forests ; and the collection of Mechanical 
 Models and Philosophical Instruments fonned by Geoi'ge III., 
 presented by Queen Victoria. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S SCHOOL. A celebrated school in St. Paul's 
 Churchyard (on the east side), foimded in 1512, for 153 poor 
 men's childi'en, by Dr. John Colet, Dean of St. Paul's, the 
 friend of Erasmus, and son of Sir Henry Colet, mercer, aud 
 Mayor of London in 14S6 and 1495. The boys were to be 
 taught, fi-ee of expense, by a master, sur-mastei", and chaplain, 
 and the oversight of the school was committed by the 
 foimder to the Mercers' Company. The number (153) was 
 chosen in allusion to the number of fishes taken by St. Peter. 
 The school Avas dedicated by Colet to the Child Jesus, but 
 the saint, as Strype remarks, has robbed his master of his 
 title. The lauds left by Colet to support his school were 
 estimated, in 1598, at the yearly value of about 120?. Their
 
 196 XXII. — WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. 
 
 present value is upwards of 5000?. The education is entirely 
 classical, and the presentations to the school are in the gift 
 of the Master of the I\Iercers' Company for the time being. 
 Scholars are admitted at the age of 15, but at present none 
 are eligible to an exhibition if entered after 12 ; and none 
 are expected to remain in the school after their nineteenth 
 birthday, though no time for superannuation is fixed by the 
 statutes. The head-master's salary is 618?. per annum ; the 
 sur-master's, 307?. ; the under-master" s, 272?. ; and the 
 assistant-master's, 257?. Lilly, the grammarian, and friend 
 of Erasmus, was the first master, and the grammar which ho 
 compiled, Lilly's Grammar, is still used in the school. 
 Eminent Scholars. —John Leland, our earliest English anti- 
 quary : John Milton, the great epic poet of our nation ; the 
 great Duke of Marlborough ; ISTelson, author of Fasts and 
 Festivals : Edmund Halley, the astronomer ; Samuel Pepys, 
 the diarist ; John Strype, the ecclesiastical historian. The 
 present school was bviilt in 1823, from a design by Mr. George 
 Smith, and is the third building erected on the same site, 
 Colet's school was destroyed in the Great Fu-e, '•' but built 
 up again," says Strype, '''much after the same manner and 
 proportion it was before." 
 
 WESTMINSTER SCHOOL, or St. Peter's College, Dean's 
 Yard, Westminster, founded as "a. publique schoole for 
 Grammar, Rethoricke, Poetrie, and for the Latin and Greek 
 languages," by Queen Elizabeth, 1560, and attached to the 
 collegiate church of St. Peter at Westminster. The College 
 consists of a dean, 12 prebendaries, 12 almsmen, and 40 
 scholars ; with a master and an usher. This is the founda- 
 tion, but the school consists of a larger number of masters, 
 and of a much larger number of boys. The 40 ai'e called 
 Queen's scholars, and after an examination, which takes 
 place on the first Tuesday after Rogation Sunday, 4 are 
 elected to Trinity College, Cambridge, and 4 to Christ Church, 
 Oxford. A parent wisliing to place a boy at this school will 
 get every necessary information from the head master ; boys 
 are not placed on the foundation under 12 or above 13 yea.rs 
 of age. Eminent MaMers. — Camden, the antiquary; Dr. 
 Busby ; Vin Boui-ne ; Jordan (Cowley has a copy of verses 
 on his death). Eminent Men educated at. — Poets : Ben Jouson; 
 George Herbert ; Giles Fletcher ; Jasper Mayne ; William 
 Cartwright ; Cowley; Dry den ; Nat Lee; Rowe ; Prior; 
 Churchill ; Dyer, author of Grongar Hill ; Cowper ; Southey. 
 Cowley published a volume of poems while a scholar at 
 Westminster. Other great Men. — Sir Harry Vane, the
 
 XXII. — CHARTER HOUSE. 197 
 
 younger ; Hakluyt, the coUectoi' of the Voyages which bear 
 his name ; Su- Christopher Wren ; Locke ; South ; Atterbury ; 
 "Warren Hastings ; Gibbon, the historian ; Cumberland ; the 
 elder Colman; Lord John Eussell. The boys on the 
 foundation were formerly separated from the town boys 
 Avhen in school by a bar or curtain. The Schoolroom was 
 a dormitory belonging to the Abbey, and retains certain 
 traces of its former ornaments. The College Hall, originally 
 the Abbot's Refectory, was built by Abbot Litlington, in 
 the reign of Edward III., and the old louvre is still used for 
 the escape of the smoke. The Dormitory was \tm\t by the 
 Earl of Burlington, in 1722. In confox-mity with the old 
 custom, the Queen's scholars perform a play of Terence every 
 year at Christmas, with a Latin prologue and epilogue relating 
 to current political events, and therefore new on each occasion. 
 
 CHARTER HOL^SE, (a corruption of Chartreuse,) upper 
 end of Aldersgate Street. '-'An hospital, chapel, and 
 school-house," founded, 1611, by Thomas Sutton, of Camps 
 Castle, in the county of Cambridge, for the free education 
 of forty poor boys and for the sustenance of eighty ancient 
 gentlemen, captains, and others, brought to distress by ship- 
 wrecks, wounds, or other revex'se of fortune. It was so 
 called from a monastei-y of Carthusian monks (the prior and 
 convent of the Carthusian order), founded in 1371 on a Pest- 
 house field by Sir Walter Manny, knight, Lord of the town 
 of Manny, in the diocese of Cambray, and knight of the garter 
 in the reign of Edward III. The last prior was executed at 
 Tybiu'n, May 4th, 1535 — liis head set on London Bridge, and 
 one of his limbs over the gateway of his o^ti convent — the 
 same gateway, it is said, a Perpendicular arch, surmounted by 
 a kind of dripstone and supported by lions, which is still the 
 entrance from Charter-House-square. The priory thus sternly 
 dissolved, was sold by Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk, to 
 Thomas Sutton for 13,000?., and endowed as a charity by the 
 name of "the Hospital of King James." Sutton died before 
 his wox-k was coxnplete, and was bm'ied in the chapel of the 
 hospital beneath a sumptuoixs monuxnent, the work of 
 Nicholas Stone and Mx\ Jansen of Southwark. This " tx-iple 
 good," as Lord Bacon calls it — this '' mastex-piece of Pro- 
 testant English charity," as it is called by Fuller — is under 
 the direction of the Queen, Prince Albert, 15 goverxiors, 
 selected from the gx'eat officers of state, and the master of 
 the hospital, whose income is 800?. a yeax', besides a capital 
 residence within the walls. The ixxost emixient master of the 
 liouse was Dr. Thomas Burnet, author of the Theox-y of the
 
 198 XXII. — CHARTER HOUSE. 
 
 Earth, master between 1GS5 and 1715 ; and the most eminent 
 school-master, the Rev. Andrew Tooke (Tooke's Pantheon). 
 Eminent Scholars. — Richard Crashaw, the poet, author of 
 Steps to the Temple. — Isaac Barrow, the divine; he was 
 clelebrated at school for his love of fighting.— Sir William 
 Blackistone, author of the Commentaries. — Joseph Addison. 
 — Sir Richard Steele. Addison and Steele were scholars at 
 the same time. — John Wesley, the founder of the Wes- 
 leyans. Wesley imputed his after-health and long life to 
 the strict obedience with which he performed an injunction 
 of his father's, that he should run round the Charter 
 House playiug-green three times every morning. — The first 
 Lord Ellenborough (Lord Chief Justice). — Lord Liverpool 
 (the Prime Minister). — Bishop Monk. — W. M. Thackeray. — 
 Sir C. L. Eastlake, P.R.A. — The two eminent historians of 
 Greece, Bishop Thirlwall and George Grote, Esq., were both 
 together in the same form under Dr. Raine. Poor Brethren. 
 — Elkanah Settle, the rival and antagonist of Dryden ; he died 
 here in 17234. — John Bagford, the antiquary (d. 171G); was 
 originally a shoemaker in Turnstile. — Isaac de Groot,by several 
 descents the nephew of Hugo Grotius ; he was admitted at the 
 earnest intercession of Dr. Johnson. — Alexander Macbean 
 (d. 1784), Johnson's assistant in his Dictionary. Observe. — Tlie 
 antechapel, the S. wall of the chapel (repaired in 1842 under 
 the direction of Blore), and the W. wall of the gi-eat hall ; parts 
 of old Howard House (for such it was once called); the 
 great staircase ; the governor's room, with its panelled chim- 
 ney-piece, ceiling, and ornamental tapestry ; that part of the 
 great hall with the mitials T. X. (Thomas, Duke of Xorfolk) ; 
 Sutton's tomb in the chapel. On opening the vault in 1842, 
 the body of the founder was discovered in a coffin of lead, 
 adapted to the shape of the body, like an Egyptian mummy- 
 case. In the Master's lodge are several excellent poi-traits ; 
 the founder, engraved by Yeitue for Bearcroft's book ; Isaac 
 Walton's good old Bishop Morley ; Charles II. ; Villiers, 
 second Duke of Buckingham ; Duke of Monmouth ; Lord 
 Chancellor Shaftesbuiy ; William, Earl of Craven (the Queen 
 of Bohemia's Earl); Sheldon, Archbishop of Canterbuiy; 
 Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham; Talbot, Duke of Shrewsbmy ; 
 Lord Chancellor Somers ; and one of Kneller's finest works, 
 the portrait of Dr. Thomas Bm-net. The foundation scholai'.s, 
 44 in number, are presented by the governors in rotation, 
 and are admitted at any age between 10 and 14. They are 
 supported free of expense, that of £5 a-year for washing 
 excepted. The value of a presentation to a boy entering at 
 ten is estimated at one thousand pounds. The income of
 
 XXIT. — CHRIST S HOSPITAL. 199 
 
 the Charter House was in 18534, £28,908 7s. 7\d., arising 
 from Estates in Cambridgeshire, Essex, Wilts, and Lincoln, 
 and from funded property. 
 
 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, Xewgate Street, marked by its 
 gi'eat hall, visible tlirough a double railing fi'om Newgate-street. 
 This noble chai'ity Avas founded on the site of the Grey Friars 
 Monastery, by Edward VL, June 26th, 1553, ten days before his 
 •death, as an hospital for poor fatherless children and found- 
 lings. It is commonly called " The Blue Coat School," fi'om 
 the dress worn by the boys, which is of the same age as the 
 formdation of the hospital. The dress is a blue coat or gOAvn, 
 a yellow petticoat ('-yellow" as it is called), a red leather 
 girdle round the waist, yellow stockings, a clergy-man's band 
 round the neck, and a flat black cap of woollen yarn, about 
 the size of a saucer. Blue was a colom' originally confined to 
 servant-men and boys, nor, till its recognition as part of the 
 uniform of the British Xavy, was blue ever looked upon as a 
 colour to be worn by gentlemen. The Whigs next took it 
 up, and now it is a colour for a nobleman to wear. The first 
 stone of the New Hall was laid by the Duke of York, 
 April 28th, 1825, and the Hall publicly opened May 29th, 
 1829. The architect was James Shaw, who built the church 
 of St. Dunstan's in Fleet-street. It is better in its proportions 
 than in its details. Observe. — At the upper end of the Hall, 
 a large picture of Edward VI. granting the charter of incor- 
 poration to the Hospital. It is commonly assigned to 
 Holbein, but upon no good authority. — Large picture, by 
 Verrio, of James II. on his thi-one (sm-rounded by his 
 courtiers, all curious portraits), receiving the mathematical 
 pupils at their annual presentation : a custom still kept up at 
 Court. The painter presented it to the Hospital. — Full- 
 length of Charles II., by Verrio. — Full-length of Sh- Francis 
 Child (d. 1713), fi'om whom Child's Banking-house derives 
 its name. — Full-lengths of the Queen and Prince Albert, by 
 Francis Grant, R.A. — Brook AVats on, when a boy, attacked by 
 a shark, h\ J.S.Copley, R.A., the father of Loi'd Lyndhurst. — 
 The stone inserted in the wall behind the steward's chair ; 
 Avhen a monitor wishes to report the misconduct of a boy, he 
 tells him to " go to the stone." In this Hall, every year on 
 St. Matthew's Day (Sept. 21st), the Grecians, or head-boys, 
 deliver a series of orations before the Mayor, Corporation, and 
 Governors, and here eveiy Thursday, from Qmnquagesima 
 Sunday to Good Friday, the "Suppings in Public," as they are 
 called, are held"; a picturesqtie sight, and always well attended. 
 Each governor has tickets to give away. The bowing to the 
 president, and procession of the trades, is extremely curious.
 
 200 XXTI.— CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, 
 
 The Grammar-scliool was built by the son of Mr. Shaw, 
 and answers all the jjui'poses for which it was erected. Tlie 
 two chief classes in the school are called "Grecians" and 
 *' Deputy-Grecians." Eminent Grecians. — Joshua Barnes (d. 
 1712,) editor of Anacreon and Euripides. Jeremiah Mark- 
 iand (d. 1776), an eminent critic, pai-ticularly in Greek 
 literature. S. T. Coleridge, the poet (d. 1834). Thomas 
 Mitchell, the translator of Aristophanes (d. 18 ). Thomas 
 Barnes, for many years, and till his death (1841,) editor of the 
 Times newspaper. Eminent Deputy- Grecians. — Charles Lamb 
 (Elia), whose delightful papers, "Eecollections of Christ^s 
 Hospital," and " Christ's Hospital Five-and-thii-ty Years Ago," 
 have done so much to uphold the dignity of the school 
 (d. 1834). Leigh Himt.* Eminent Scholars v:h.ose standing in 
 the School is unhio^vn. — William Camden, author of the 
 " Britannia." Bishop Stillingfleet. Samuel Kichardson, author 
 of " Clarissa Harlowe." 
 
 The Mathematical-school was founded by Charles II., in 
 1672, for forty boys, called "King's boys," distinguished by 
 a badge on the right shoulder. The school was afterwards 
 enlarged, at the expense of a Mr. Stone. The boys on the 
 new foundation wear a badge on the left shoulder, and are 
 called " The Twelves," on account of their number. To 
 *' The Twelves " wa.s afterwards added " The Twos," on 
 another foundation. 
 
 " As I ventured to call the Grecians the mnftis of the school, the King's 
 boys, as their character then -waB, may Tvell pass for the janissaries. 
 They were the constant terror to the younger part ; and some who may 
 read this, I doubt not, will remember the consternation into which the 
 juvenile fry of us were thrown, when the cry was raised in the cloister 
 that ' the First Order ' was coming, for so they tenned the first fonu or 
 class of those hojs."— Charles Lamb. 
 
 The Writing-school was founded in 1694, and furnished at 
 the sole charge of Sir John Moore, Lord Mayor in 1681. The 
 school has alwaj's been famous for its penmen. The Wards 
 or Dormitories in which the boys sleep are seventeen in num- 
 ber. Each boy makes his own bed; and each ward is 
 governed by a nurse and two or more monitors. 
 
 The Counting-house contains a good portrait of Edwai-d VI., 
 after Holbein — very probably by him. The dress of the 
 boys is not the only remnant of byegone times, peculiar to 
 the school. Old names still haunt the precinct of the Grey- 
 friars : the place where is stored the bread and butter is still 
 the " buttery ; " and the open ground in front of the Gram- 
 
 * May the author be excused for adding, in a note (gratefully), that 
 he, too, was a Deputy Grecian at Christ's Hospital under Dr. Greenwood?
 
 XXII. — SIERC^A^"T TAILOns' SCHOOL. 201 
 
 mar-scbool is still distinguislied as " the Ditcli," because the 
 ditch of the City ran through the precinct. The boys have 
 only within the last few years ceased to take their milk from 
 wooden bowls, their meat from wooden trenchers, and their 
 beer from leathern black jacks and wooden piggius. They 
 have still a currency and almost a langiiage of their OT\-n. The 
 Spital sermons are still preached before them. Every Easter 
 Monday they visit the Royal Exchange, and every Easter 
 Tuesday the Lord Mayor, at the Mansion-house. But the cus- 
 toms which distinguished the school are fast dying away : the 
 saints' days are no longer holidays ; the money-boxes for the 
 poor have disappeared from the cloisters ; the dungeons for the 
 unruly have been done away with ; and the govei-nors are too 
 lax in allowing the boys to wear caps and hats, and even at a 
 distance to change the di'ess. When the dress is once done 
 away with, the Hospital will sink into a common charity school. 
 Some changes, however, have been effected for the better : the 
 boys no longer perform the commonest menial occui:)ation3 ; 
 and the bread and beer for breakfast has been discontinued 
 since 1824. Mode of Admission. — Boys whose parents may 
 not be fi-ee of the City of London are admissible on Free 
 Presentations,'" as they are called, as also are the sons of 
 clergymen of the Church of England. The Lord Mayor has 
 two presentations annually, and the Court of Aldermen one 
 each. The rest of the governoi^s have presentations once in 
 three years. A list of the governors who have presentations 
 for the year is printed every Easter, and may be had at the 
 counting-house of the Hospital. Xo boy is admitted before 
 he is seven years old, or after he is nine : and no boy can 
 remain in the school after he is fifteen — King's Boys and 
 Grecians alone excepted. Qualification for Governor. — Pay- 
 ment of 500?. An Alderman has the power of nominating 
 a governor for election at half-price. The branch-school 
 at Hertfoi'd was founded in 16S3. The income of the 
 Hospital is 10,000?. a year, and the management vested in 
 foimdationand donation governors who have contributed not 
 less than 200,000?. to its funds.* The Duke of Cambridge 
 was chosen President in 1854, and thus for the first time 
 since its foundation has Christ's Hospital been without an 
 Alderman for its President. 
 
 MERCHANT TAILORS' SCHOOL, in Suffolk Lane, in 
 the ward of Dowgate, founded in 1561, by the Merchant 
 Tailors' Company, Sir Thomas "White, who had recently 
 
 * Speech in the House of Commons by Alderman Thompson 
 President of the Hospital, 26th March, 1S52.
 
 202 XXII. — ilERCHAXT TAILORS' SCHOOL. 
 
 founded St. John's College, Oxford, was tlien a member of 
 the Court ; and Richard Hills, master of the Company, gave 
 5001. towards the purchase of a portion of a house" called 
 the " Manor of the Rose," sometime belonging to Stafford, 
 Duke of Buckingham. 
 
 " The Duke being at the Rose, within the Parish 
 St. Lawrence Poultney, did of me demand 
 What was the speech among the Londoners 
 Concerning the French journey." 
 
 SuA-KSVEAn^.—Hennj VIII., Act!., sc. 1. 
 
 *' The Rose " had been formei-ly in the possession of the 
 De la Pole or Suffolk family, and was originally built by Sir 
 John Poultney, knt., five times Lord Mayor of London, in 
 the reign of Edward III, Traces of its successive owners are 
 still found in the name of the parish of " St. Laui'ence Pount- 
 ney," in which the school is situate ; in *•' Duck's-foot-lane" 
 (the Duke's foot-lane, or private road from his garden to the 
 river) wliich is close at hand ; and in " Suffolk-lane," by 
 which it is approached. The Great Fire destroyed this 
 ancient pile. The present school (a brick building with 
 pilasters), and the head-master's residence adjoining, were 
 erected in 1675. The former consists of the large upper 
 schoolroom, two wi-itiug-rooms, foi^med, in 1829, out of part 
 of the cloister : a class-room, and a library (standing in the 
 situation of the ducal chapel), stored with a fair collection of 
 theological and classical works. The school consists of 260 
 boys. The charge for education has varied at different 
 periods, but it is now 101. per annum for each boy. Boys are 
 admitted at any age, and may remain until the Monday after 
 St. John the Baptist's Day preceding their 19th birthday. 
 Presentations ai'e in the gift of the members of the Court of 
 the Company in rotation. Boys who have been entered on 
 or below the third form are eligible to all the school prefer- 
 ments at the Universities ; those who have been entered 
 higher, only to the exhibitions. The com-se of education 
 since the fomidation of the school has embraced Hebrew and 
 classical literature; writing, arithmetic, and mathematics 
 were introduced in 1829, and French and modern history in 
 1846. There is no property belonging to the school, with 
 the exception of the buildings above described ; and it is 
 supported by the ^lerchant Tailors' Company out of their 
 several " funds, without any specific fund being set apart for 
 that object;" it was, therefore, exempt from the inquiry of 
 the Charity Commissioners ; but like "Winchester, Eton, and 
 "Westminster, it has a college almost appropriated to its 
 scholars. Thirty-seven out of the fifty fellov\-ships at St. John's,
 
 XXII. — CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL. 203 
 
 Oxford, founded by Sir Thomas White, belong to Merchant 
 Tailors' ; 8 exhibitions at Oxford, 6 at Cambridge, and 4 to 
 either University, avei-aging from 301. to 701. per annum, 
 besides a multitude of smaller exhibitions, are also attached 
 to it. The election to these preferments takes place annually, 
 on St. Barnabas' Day, June 11th, A\ith the sanction of the 
 President or tv>'o senior Fellows of St. John's. This is the 
 chief speech-day, and on it the school prizes are distributed ; 
 but there is another, called ^- the doctors' day," in December. 
 Plays were formerly acted by the boys of this school, as at 
 Westminster. The earliest instance kno\\Ti was in 1665. 
 Garrick, who was a personal friend of the then Head-Master 
 of his time, was frequently present, and took gi-eat interest 
 in the performances. Emineat Men educated at Merchant 
 Tailors' School. — Bishop Andrews, Bishop Dove, and Bishop 
 Tomson (three of the tx-anslators of the Bible) : Edwin 
 Sandys, the traveller, the friend of Hooker ; Bidstrode 
 Whitelocke, author of the Memorials which bear his name ; 
 James Shirley, the dramatic poet ; the infamous Titus Oates ; 
 Charles Wheatley, the ritualist ; Neale, the author of the 
 History of the Puritans ; Edmund Calamy, the nonconformist, 
 and his grandson of the same name ; Edmund Gaytou, author 
 of the Festivous Notes on Don Quixote ; John Byrom, author 
 of the Pastoral, in the Spectator, 
 
 " My time, O ye Muses, was happily spent ; " 
 
 Luke Milbourne, Dryden's antagonist ; Robert, the celebrated 
 LordClive; Charles Mathews, the comedian; and Lieut.-Col. 
 Dixon Denham, the Afi-ican traveller. 
 
 CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL, Milk Street, Cheapside, 
 established 1835, for the sons of respectable persons engaged 
 in professional, commercial, or trading pursuits : and partly 
 founded on an income of 9001. a-year, derived from certain 
 tenements bequeathed by John Carpenter, to^\Ti-clerk of 
 London, in the reign of Henry V., "for the finding and 
 bringing up of four poor men's cliildi-en with meat, drink, 
 apparel, learning at the schools, in the universities, &c., until 
 they be prefei^'ed, and then others in their places for ever." 
 This was the same John Carpenter who " caused, with great 
 expense, to be curiously painted upon board, about the N. 
 cloister of Paul's, a monument of Death leading ail Estates, 
 •with the speeches of Death and answers of every State." 
 The school year is divided into tlu-ee terms : Easter to July ; 
 August to Christmas ; January to Easter ; and the charge for
 
 204 XXII. — DEPAE,TME^'T 0¥ PRACTICAL ART. 
 
 each pupjil is 21. 5s. a term. The printed form of appHcation 
 for admission may be had of the secretary, and must be filled 
 up by the parent or guardian, and signed by a member of the 
 Corporation of London. The general course of instruction 
 includes the English, French, German, Latin, and Greek 
 languages, writing, arithmetic, mathematics, book-keeping, 
 geography, and history. Besides 8 free scholarships on the 
 foundation, equivalent to Z5l. per annum each, and available 
 as exhibitions to the L'niversities, there are the following 
 exhibitions belonging to the school : — The " Times " Scholar- 
 ship, value 30/. per annum ; 3 Beaufoy Scholarships, the 
 Salomons Scholarship, and the Travers Scholarsliip, 501. 
 per annum each ; the Tegg Scholarship, nearly 20/. per 
 anninn ; and several other valuable prizes. The first stone 
 of the School was laid by Lord Brougham, October 21st, 
 1835. 
 
 DEPARTMENT OF PRACTICAL ART, OR GOVERN- 
 MENT SCHOOL OF DESIGN, is in Marlborough House 
 and in Somerset House, and was established (1837) by, and 
 under the superintendence of, the Board of Trade for the 
 Improvement of Ornamental Art, with regard especially to 
 the staple manufactures of this country. Mode of Admission. 
 — The recommendation of a householder. At Marlborough 
 House is a very foir Museum and Library of Ornamental 
 Art. The course of instruction comprehends Elementary 
 dx'awing, in outline with pencil ; shading with chalk after 
 engraved examples ; shading from casts ; chiar'oscuro paint- 
 ing; colouring; drawing the figure after engi-aved copies; 
 drawing the figure from casts ; painting the figure from casts ; 
 geometrical dra\\dng applied to ornament ; perspective ; 
 modelling from engraved coj^ies, design, &c. Every student 
 in the school is required to di-aw the human figure, and to 
 pass through at least the elementary classes, as indispensable 
 to the general course of instruction. There is also a class for 
 wood-engraving under the direction of Mr. John Thompson, 
 our best engraver on wood. The greatest number of 
 students of the same calling are the ornamental painters and 
 house-decorators ; the next most numerous are draughtsmen 
 and designers for various manufactures and trades. In con- 
 nection with the head-school at Marlborough House, schools 
 have been formed in many of the principal manufacturing 
 districts throughout the country. 
 
 Besides these, the visitor curious about modes of education 
 should visit the " Wesleyan Normal College," Horsefen-y- 
 road, Westnunster, established 1850 (James Wilson, architect),
 
 XXIII. — CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 205 
 
 for the training of school-masters and mistresses, and the edu- 
 cation of the children residing in the locality ; and the '-'Ragged 
 School," in South Lambeth, founded by the late Mr. Beaufoy 
 (d. 1851) ; the Normal School, in the Fulham-road. Should 
 he wish to pursue his inquiries fui'ther, he must leave London 
 for the L^niversities of Oxford and Cambridge, for the East 
 India Company's Colleges at Addiscombe and Haileybury, 
 and the Ordnance College at Woolwich. 
 
 XXIII.-HOSPITALSAND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 In London, at the close of the year 1853, there existed 530 
 Charitable Institvitions (or parent societies) divided into 
 
 General Medical Hospitals. 
 
 Medical Charities for special purposes ; such as Small Pox, Cou- 
 
 sumption, Cancer, &c. 
 General Dispensaries. 
 Societies and Institutions for the preservation of life and public 
 
 morals. 
 Societies for reclaiming the fallen and staying the progress of 
 
 crime. 
 Societies for the relief of general destitution and distress. 
 Societies for relief of specific desci'iption. 
 Societies for aiding the resources of the industrious (exclusive 
 
 of loan funds and savings' banks.) 
 Societies for the deaf and dumb and the blind. 
 Colleges, Hospitals, and Institutions of Almshouses for the aged. 
 Charitable Pension Societies. 
 
 Charitable and Provident Societies chiefly for specified classes. 
 Asylums for orphan and other necessitous children. 
 Educational Foundations. 
 Charitable Modern Ditto. 
 School Societies, Religious Books, Church-aiding, and Christian 
 
 Visiting Societies. 
 Bible and Missionary Societies, 
 
 and disbursing annually in aid of their respective objects 
 1,805,635^., of which upwards of 1,000,000^. is raised by 
 voluntaiy contributions. 
 
 Of these institutions five are Royal Hospitals. One for 
 the education of youth {Christ's Hospital, p. 199); three for 
 the cure of disease {St. Bartholomew'' s, St. Thoriiais. and 
 Bethlehem) ; and one Bridewell, for the punishment of the 
 idle and the dissolute. Bedlam and Bridewell, with a rental 
 between 25,000?. and 30,000?. a year, are under the same 
 direction.
 
 206 xxiii. — ST. Bartholomew's hospital. 
 
 The leading institutions which the stranger or resident im 
 Loudon will find best worth visiting are : — 
 
 ST. BARTHOLOMEAV'S HOSPITAL, in Smithfield, the 
 earliest institution of the kind in London, occupying part of 
 the Priory of St. Bartholomew, founded a.d. 1102, by Rahere, 
 the first Prior ; repaired and enlarged by the executors of 
 Richard Whittington, the celebrated Mayor; and founded 
 anew, at the dissolution of religious houses, by Hemy VIII.,. 
 " for the continual relief and help of an hundi'ed sore and 
 diseased ; " the immediate superintendence of the Hospital 
 being committed by the king to Thomas Yicary, Serjeant- 
 ►Surgeon to Heniy VIII., Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth, 
 and author of "The Englishman's Treasure," the first work 
 on anatomy published in the English language. The great 
 quadrangle of the present edifice was built (1730-33) by James 
 Gibbs, architect of the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields. 
 The gate towards Smithfield Avas built in 1702, and the Xew 
 Surgery in 1842. This Hospital gives relief to all poor per- 
 sons suffering from accident or diseases, either as in-patients 
 or out-patients. Cases of all kinds are received into the 
 Hospital, including diseases of the eyes, distortions of the 
 limbs, and all other infirmities which can be relieved by 
 medicine or surgery. Accidents, or cases of urgent disease, 
 may be brought without any letter or recommendation or 
 other formality at all hours of the day or night to the Sur- 
 gery, where there is a person in constant attendance, and the- 
 aid of the Resident Medical Of&cers can be instantly obtained. 
 General admission-day, Thursday, at 11 o'clock. Petitions 
 for admission to be obtained at the Steward's Office, any day, 
 between 10 and 2. Any other information may be obtained 
 from the porter at the gate. The Hospital contains 5S0 beds, 
 and relief is afforded to 70,000 patients annually. The 
 in-patients are visited daily by the Physicians and Surgeons : 
 and, during the summer session, four Clinical Lectures are 
 delivered weekly. The out-patients are attended daily by 
 the Assistant-Physicians and Assistant-Surgeons. Students 
 can reside v»-itliin the Hospital walls, subject to the rules of 
 the Collegiate system, established under the direction of the 
 Treasurer and a Committee of Governors of tlie Hospital. 
 Some of the teachers and other gentlemen connected with 
 the Hospital also receive Students to reside with them. 
 Further information may be obtained from the Medical or 
 Surgical Officers or Lecturers, or at the Anatomical Museum 
 or Library. Between 200?. and 300?. are spent every year for 
 strong sound port wine, for the sick poor in Bartholomew's
 
 XXIII. — ST, Bartholomew's hospital. 207 
 
 Hospital, It is boiiglit in pipes, and drawn off as needed, 
 Keai-ly 2000 lbs. weight of castor oil ; 200 gallons of spiiits 
 of wine, at IT**, a gallon; 12 tons of linseed meal ; 1000 lbs. 
 weight of senna ; 27 cwt. of salts, are items in the annual 
 account for drugs ; the grand total spent upon physic, 
 in a twelvemonth, being 2.600Z, 5000 yards of calico 
 are wanted for rollers for bandaging ; to say nothing of the 
 stouter and stiffer fabric used for plaisters. More than half 
 a hundred weight of sarsaparilla is used eyery week, a sign 
 how much the constitution of the patients requires improye- 
 ment. In a year, 29,700 leeches were boiight for the use of 
 the establishment. A ton and a half of treacle is annually 
 used in syinxp, Harvey, the discoverer of the cu'culation of 
 the blood, was Physician to the Hospital for 3-4 years, 
 (1609-43), and the rules which he laid down for the duties 
 of the medical officers of the Hospital were adhered to 
 for nearly a century after his retu'ement. The date of the 
 actual commencement of a Medical School is unknown ; but 
 in 1662, students were in the habit of attending the medical 
 and sm-gical practice: and in 1667, theii* studies were 
 assisted by the foraiation of a Library '• for tlie \ise of the 
 Govemore and yoimg University scholars." A building for a 
 Museum of Anatomical and Chii'm-gical Prepai-ations was 
 provided in 1721, and, in 1731, leave was granted for any of 
 the Surgeons or Assistant-Surgeons ''to read Lectures in 
 Anatomy in the dissecting-room of the Hospital." The first 
 Surgeon who availed himself of this pel-mission was 
 Mr. Edward Xom'se, whose anatomical lectm-es, delivered for 
 many yeai-s in or near the Hospital, were followed, in 1765, 
 and for many years after, by courses of Lectvires on Surgeiy 
 from his former pupil and prosector, Percival Pott : and 
 about the same time, Dr. William Pitcaim, and subse- 
 quently Dr. David Pitcairn, successively Physicians to the 
 Hospital, delivered lectures, probably occasional ones, on 
 Medicine. Further additions to the course of instrviction 
 were made by Mr. Abernethy, who was elected Assistant- 
 Surgeon in 1787, and by whom, with the assistance of 
 Di's. "William and David Pitcairn, the piincipal lectures of 
 the present day were established. Abernethy lectured on 
 Anatomy, Physiology, and Surgery, in a theatre erected for 
 him by the Govemoi'-s in 1791, and his high reputation 
 attracting so great a body of students it was found necessary, 
 in 1822, to erect a new and larger Anatomical Theatre. The 
 progress of science and the extension of medical education in 
 the last twenty years have led to the institution of additional 
 lectureships on subjects auxiliary to Medicine, and on new
 
 208 XXIII. — BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL. 
 
 and important applications of it ; and further facilities have 
 been afforded for instruction. In 1835, the Anatomical 
 Museum was considerably enlarged, a new Medical Theatre 
 was built, and Museums of Materia Medica and Botany were 
 founded ; and, at the same time, the Library was removed 
 to the present building, and enriched b}'' liViei'al contributions. 
 In 1834, the Medical Officers and Lecturers commenced the 
 pi-aciice of offering Prizes and Honorary Distinctions for 
 superior knowledge displayed at the annual examinations 
 of their classes ; and in 1845, four scholarships were founded, 
 each tenable for three yeax's, and of the annual value of 45Z. 
 and 50^., Avith the design not only of encouraging learning, 
 but of assisting Students to prolong their attendance, beyond 
 the nsual period, on the medical and surgical practice of the 
 Hospital. In 1843, the Governors founded a Collegiate 
 Establishment, to afford the Pupils the moral advantages, 
 together with the comfort and convenience, of a residence 
 within the walls of the Hospital, and to supply them with 
 ready guidance and assistance in their stvidies. The chief 
 officer of the College is called the Warden. The President 
 of the Hospital must have served the office of Lord Mayor. 
 The qualification of a Governor is a donation of 100 gmneas. 
 The greatest individual benefactor to St. Bartholomew's was 
 the celebrated Dr. Radcliffe, who left the yearly sum of 500^, 
 for ever, towards mending the diet of the Hospital, and the 
 further sum of 100^. for ever, for tlie purchase of linen, 
 Obsei^e. — Portraits : Henry VIII. in the Court-room, esteemed 
 an original, though not by Holbein; of Dr. Radcliffe, by Kneller; 
 Perceval Pott, by Sir J. Reynolds ; Abernethy, by Bir T. Laxc- 
 rence. The Good Samaritan, and The Pool of Bethesda, on 
 the grand staircase, were painted gratuitously by Hogarth; 
 for which he was made a governor for life. The income of 
 the Hospital is between 30,000?. and 40,000?. a year.— (The 
 Times, 24 May, 1854.) 
 
 BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL (^Tilg. Bedlam), in St. George's 
 Fields. An hospital for insane people, founded (1246) as a 
 priory of canons, in Bishopsgate Without, by Simon Fitz- 
 Mary, one of the Shei'iffs of liOndon. Henry VIIL, at the 
 Dissolution, gave it to the City of London, when it was first 
 converted into an hospital for lunatics. Fitz-Mary's Hospital 
 was taken down in 1675, and the Hospital removed to 
 Moorfields, "at the cost of nigh 17,000?." Of this second 
 Bedlam (Robert Hooke, architect) there is a view in Strype. 
 Bedlam, in Moorfields, was taken down in 1814, and the 
 first stone of the present Hospital (James Lewis, architect)
 
 XXIII. — ST. Thomas's hospital, 209 
 
 laid April IStli, 1812. The ctipola, a recent addition, was 
 designed by Sydney Sniirke. The fii-st Hospital could 
 accommodate only 50 or 60, and the second 150. The 
 building in St. George's-fields Avas onginally consti-ucted 
 for 198 patients, but this being found too limited for the 
 purposes and resources of the Hospital, a new wing was 
 commenced for 1G6 additional patients, of which the firet 
 stone was laid July 26th, 1S3S. The whole building (the 
 House of Occupations included) covers, it is said, an area of 
 14 acres. In 1845 the Governors admitted 315 Curables 
 (110 males and 205 females) ; 7 Incurables (5 males and 
 2 females) ; 11 Criminals (7 males and 4 females); and 180 
 Discharged Cured (62 males and 118 females). The ex- 
 penses in 1837 amounted to 19,764?. I5s. 7(7. The way in 
 which the comfort of the patients is studied by every one 
 connected with the Hospital cannot be too highly com- 
 mended. The women have pianos, and the men billiard and 
 bagatelle-tables. There are, indeed, few things to remind you 
 that you are in a mad-house beyond the bone knives in use, 
 and a few cells lined and floored with cork and india-i-ubber, 
 and against which the most insane patient may knock his head 
 without the possibility of hui-ting it. Among the unfortu- 
 nate inmates have been — Peg Xicholson, for attempting to 
 stab Geox-ge III. ; she died here in 1828, after a confinement 
 of 42 years. — Hatfield, for attempting to shoot the same 
 king in Di-ury-lane Theatre. — Oxford, for firing at Queen 
 Victoria in St. James's Park. — M'Xaghteu, for shooting Mr. 
 Edward Drummond at Charing-cross ; he mistook Mr. Dinim- 
 mond, the private secretary of Sir Robert Peel, for Sir P. Peel 
 himself Visitors interested in cases of lunacy should see 
 Ilamc ell Asylum, on the Great Western Railway (7^ miles fi'om 
 London), and the Col ney Hatch Asylum on the Great Northern 
 Railway (65 miles from London), the latter covering 119 
 acres, and erected at a cost of 200,000/. 
 
 ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL, High Street, Scuthwabk. 
 An Hospital for sick and diseased poor persons, under the 
 management of the Corporation of the City of London, 
 founded (1213) by Richard, Prior of Bermondsey, as an 
 Almoniy, or house of alms: founded again more fully (1215) 
 for canons regular, by Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Vrin- 
 chester ; bought at the dissolution of religious houses by 
 the citizens of London, and opened by them as an Hospital 
 for poor, impotent, and diseased people, ISTov. 1552. The 
 building having fallen into decay, the governors, in 1G9&, 
 solicited the benevolence of the public for its support, 
 
 p
 
 210 XXIII. — guy's hospital. 
 
 and with such success that the whole hospital was (1701-6) 
 built anew. As thus restored, the building consisted of 
 three courts, with colonnades between each. Three wards 
 were built at the sole cost of Thomas Frederick, Esq. ; and 
 three (on the north side of the outer court) by Thomas Guy, 
 the munificent founder of the Hospital which bears his name. 
 Day of admission, Tuesday morning, at 10. Patients stating 
 their complamts may receive a petition at the steward's 
 office, to be signed by a housekeeper, who must engage to 
 remove the patient on discharge or death, or pay 11. Is. for 
 funeral. The qualification of a governor is a donation of 50?. 
 Of the 4G,733 people under the care of the governors of this 
 Hospital in the year 1845, 3552 in-patients and 41,815 out- 
 patients were cured and discharged, leaving 1232 in and 
 out-patients remaining under cure. 
 
 GUY'S HOSPITAL, in Southwark, for the sick and 
 lame, situated near London Bridge, built by Dance (d. 1768), 
 and endov.-ed by Thomas Guy, a bookseller in Lombai'd- 
 street, who is said to have made his fortune ostensibly by the 
 sale of Bibles, but more, it is thought, by purchasing seamen's 
 tickets, and by his great success in the sale and transfer 
 of stock in the memorable South Sea year of 1720. Guy 
 Avas a native of Tamworth, in Staffordshire, and died 
 (1724) at the age of 80. The building of the Hospital 
 cost 18,793?. 165. Id., and the endowment amounted to 
 219,499?. 05. id. The founder, though 76 when the work 
 began, lived to see his Hospital covered with the roof In 
 the first court is his statue in brass, dressed in liis livery 
 gov.n, cand in the chapel (•'shouldering God's altar") another 
 statue of him in marble, by the elder Bacon. Sir Astley 
 Cooper, the eminent surgeon (d. 1841), is buried in the 
 chapel of this Hospital. The tall towers for ventilation 
 of the new Avards, Avcre erected 1851-2, from the designs of 
 Rohde Hawkins. 
 
 Gentlemen who desire to become Students must give 
 satisfactory testimony as to their education and conduct. 
 They are required to paj^ 40?. for the first year, 40?. for the 
 second year, and 10?. for exerj succeeding year of attendance. 
 
 The payment for the year admits to the Lectures, Practice, 
 and all the privileges of a Student. 
 
 Dressers, Clinical Clerks, Assistants, and Resident Obste- 
 tric Clerks are selected according to merit from those 
 Students who have attended a second year. 
 
 The Apothecary to the Hospital is authorised to enter the 
 I'Tamcs of Students, and to give further particulars if required.
 
 XXIII. — ST. George's and chelsea hospitals. 211 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S HOSPITAL, Hyde Park Corker, at the 
 top of Grosvenor-place. An Hospital for sick and lame 
 people, supported by voluntaiy contributions ; built by 
 William Wilkins, R.A., architect of the National Galleiy, on 
 the site of Lanesborough House, the London residence of 
 
 " Sober Lanesbro' dancing with the gout ; " 
 converted into an Infirmary in 1733. John Hunter, the 
 physician, died (1793) in this Hospital. He had long suf- 
 fered from an affection of the heart ; and in an altercation 
 with one of his colleagues, about a matter of right, wliich 
 had been, by the governors of the Hospital, as he thought, 
 improperly refused him, he suddenly stopped, retired to an 
 ante-room, and immediately expired. 
 
 CHELSEA HOSPITAL. A Royal Hospital for old and 
 disabled soldiers, of which the first stone was laid by 
 Charles II. in person, March, 1G81-2. It has a centre, with 
 two wings of red brick, with stone dressings, faces the Thames, 
 ?.,nd shov.'s more effect with less means than any other of 
 Wren's buildings. The history of its erection is contained 
 on the frieze of the great c^uadrangle : — 
 
 "In suhsidium et levamen emeritorum seuio, helloque fractonim, 
 ■condidit Carolus Secundus, auxit Jacohus Seciindus, perfecere Guliekaus 
 et Maria Kex et Regina, MDCXC." 
 
 The total cost is said to have been 150,000?. Observe. — 
 Portrait of Charles II. on horseback (in hall), by Verrio and 
 Henry C'ooJce ; altar-piece (in chapel) by Sebastian Ricci ; 
 bronze statue of Charles II. in centre of the great quadrangle, 
 executed by G-rinling Gibbons for Tobias Rustat. In the Hall, 
 in which AMiitelocke was tried, in which the Court of 
 Enquiiy into the Convention of Cintra sat, and in which the 
 Duke of Wellington's body lay in state, are 46 colours ; 
 and in the Chapel 55 (all captured by the British army in 
 different campaigns in various parts of the world), viz. : — 
 34 French; 13 American; 4 Dutch; 13 eagles taken from 
 the French ; 2 at Waterloo ; 2 Salamanca ; 2 Madrid ; 
 4 Martinique; 1 Bai-ossa; and a few staves of the 171 colours 
 taken at Blenheim. At St. Paul's, where the Blenheim 
 colours were suspended, not a rag nor a staff remains. 
 Eminent Persons i-ntcrred in the Chapel. — William Cheselden, 
 the famous surgeon (d. 1752) ; Rev. William Young (d. 1757), 
 the original Parson Adams in Fielding's Joseph Andrews. 
 Dr. Ai'buthnot filled the office of physician, and the Rev. 
 Philip Francis (the translator of Horace) the office of chaplain 
 to the Hospital. The niimber of in-pensioners is from 400 
 to 430 (as many as the Hospital vr^\ accommodate), main- 
 
 p 2
 
 212 XXIII. — GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 
 
 tained at a cost of 36Z. a year for each pensioner. The 
 out-pensioners, about 76,000 in number, are paid at rates 
 varying from 2ld. a day to 3s. 6c?. a day ; the majority at 6d., 
 9d., and Is. By Loi-d Hardinge's Avarrant of 1829, foot- 
 soldiers to be entitled to a Chelsea pension must have served 
 twenty-one years, horse-soldiers tvrenty-four. By Sir John 
 Hobhouse's warrant of 1833, the period was unnecessarily 
 lengthened, and the pay unnecessarily lessened. Few invalids, 
 it is said, apply to become in-pensioners, who have an out- 
 pension amounting to lOd. or Is. per day. There is a 
 pleasant tradition that Xell Gwynne materially assisted in 
 the foundation of Chelsea Hospital. Her head, and one of 
 Bome standing, is the sign of a neighbouring public-house. 
 The Hospital is managed by a Governor, Commissioners, &:c. 
 The Governor is appointed by the Sovereign, acting on tho 
 advice of the Commander-in-Chief. 
 
 GREENWICH HOSPITAL. An Hospital for old and dis- 
 abled sailors of the Royal Navy, founded by William HI. (in 
 memory of Queen Mary), and erected on the site of the old 
 Manor House of our kings, in wliich Henry YIII. and his 
 daiighters Mary and Elizabeth were born. Charles II., intend- 
 ing to erect a new palace on the site, the west wing was com- 
 menced in 1G64, from the designs of Webb, the kinsman and 
 executor of Inigo Jones. All that Webb erected, all indeed 
 of the present building, erected by Charles II. or his suc- 
 cessor, was this west wing. Tho first stone of the Hospital 
 woi'ks, in continuation of the unfinished palace, was laid 
 3rd June, 1696 ; and in January, 1705, the building was 
 first opened for the reception of pensioners. The river front 
 is doubtless Webb's design, though only the v^-est wing was 
 of his erection. The colonnades, the cupolas, and the great 
 hall, are by Wren. The chapel was built by Athenian Stuart, 
 in place of the original chapel, built by Ripley, and destroyed 
 by fire 2nd January, 1779. The brick buildings to the west 
 are by Vanbrugh. The house seen in the centre of the 
 gi-eat square was built by Inigo Jones for Queen Henrietta 
 Maria, and is now the Royal Naval School. It should be 
 seen inside; for, after Whitehall Banqueting-House, it is the 
 best memorial in stone (and good it is) of the palaces of 
 the Stuarts. The statue by Rysbrack, in the centre of the 
 quadrangle, represents George II., and was cut from a block 
 of marble taken from tlie French by Sir George Rooke. 
 
 The Hall, a well-proportioned edifice, 106 feet long, 56 feet 
 v.-ide, and 50 feet high, is the work of Wren. Tho emblema- 
 tical ceiling and side-walls were executed by Sir James
 
 XXIII. — GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 213 
 
 Thornliill, between 1708-27, and cost 66S51., or 3/. per yard for 
 the ceiling, and 1/. for the sides. Among the portraits, ohHrve, 
 full-length of the Earl of Nottingham, Admiral of England 
 against the Spanish Armada, Vansomer ; half-lengths, painted 
 for the Duke of York (James II.), of Monk, Duke of Albe- 
 marle; Montague, Earl of Sandwich; Admirals Ayscue, Law- 
 son, Tyddeman, flings, Penn, Harman (fine), and Vice- Admi- 
 rals Berkelej^, Smith, and Jordan, by Sir P. Lehj, — all cele- 
 brated commanders at sea against the Dutch in the reign of 
 Charles II. ; Russell, Earl of Orford, victor at La Hogue, 
 Bochman ; Sir George Rooke, who took Gibraltar, Bald ; Sir 
 Cloudesley Shovel, Dald ; several Admirals, Kncller ; Captain 
 Cook, by Dance (painted for Sir Joseph Banks) ; Sir Thomas 
 Hardy, Evans. The other poi'traits are principally copies by 
 inferior artists. Among the subject-pictures, observe, Death 
 of Ca^Dtain Cook, Zoffany ; Lord Howe's Victory of the 1st of 
 June, Louthcrhourg (fine) ; Battle of Trafalgar, /. M. W. Turner. 
 The statues, erected by vote of Parliament, represent Sir 
 Sydney Smith, Lord Exmouth, and Lord De Saximarez, and 
 cost 1500Z. each ; the Smith by Kirh of Dublin, the Exmouth 
 by Mac Dowell of London, and the De Saumarez by Steel of 
 Edinburgh. In Upper Hall, observe, — Astrolabe presented to 
 Sir Francis Drake by Queen Elizabeth ; coat woi-n by Nelson 
 at the Battle of the Nile ; coat and waistcoat in which Nelson 
 was killed at Trafalgar. 
 
 "The coat is the undress unifonn of a vice-admiral, lined with white 
 Bilk, with lace on the cuffs, and epaulettes. Four stars — of the Orders of 
 the Bath, St. Ferdinand and Merit, the Crescent, and St. .Joachim — are 
 sewn on the left breast, as Nelson habitually wore them ; which disproves 
 the story that he purposely adorned himself witli his decorations on 
 going into battle ! The course of the fatal ball is shown by a hole over 
 the left shoulder, and part of the epaulette is torn away ; which agrees 
 with Dr. Sir "William Beattie's account of Lord Nelson's death, and with 
 the fact that pieces of the bullion and pad of the epaulette adhered to 
 the ball, which is now in Iler ^lajesty's possession. The coat and 
 waistcoat are stained in several places with the hero's blood." — Sir 
 Harris Nicolas. 
 
 The Chapel,hx\\\i 1779-89, hj Athenian Stuart, contains an 
 altar-piece, " The Shipwreck of St. Paul," by B. West, P. R. A., 
 and monuments, erected by King William IV., to Admiral 
 Sir Richai-d Goodwin Keats, and Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy 
 (Nelson's captain at Trafalgar) ; the former by Ckantrey, and 
 the latter by Behnes. Keats, as the inscription sets forth, 
 was the shipmate and watchmate of William IV., on board the 
 Prince George, 1779-81; the commoner serving as lieutenant, 
 and the king as midshipman. 
 
 The Shoiv Dormitories are in King Charles's building. 
 
 The income of the Hospital is above 130,000^. a year,
 
 214 XXIII. — FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 
 
 deiiived from an annual Parliamentary grant of 20,000Z. ; from 
 fines levied against smuggling, 19,500^.; effects of Captain 
 Kidd, the pirate, 6472?. ; forfeited and tmclaimed shares of 
 prize and bounty money, granted in 1708 ; 6000Z. a year, 
 granted in 1710, out of the coal and culm tax ; various private 
 bequests, particularly one of 20,000?. from Robert Osbaldes- 
 ton, and the valuable estate.s forfeited, in 1715, by the Earl 
 of Derwentwater. 
 
 The Hospital Gates open at Sunrise. The Painted Hall is 
 open every Week-day from Ten to Seven during the Summer- 
 months, and from Ten to Three in the AVinter; and on Sun- 
 days after Divine Service iu the Morning. On Monday and 
 Friday it is open free to the pxxblic ; and on the other days, 
 on payment of threepence. Soldiers and sailors are admitted 
 free at all times. The Chapel is open under the same regu- 
 lations as the Painted Hall. 
 
 Among the noble institutions of a like nature with which 
 London abounds may be mentioned : — 1. The London 
 Hospital. 2. "Westminster Hospital. 3. Charing-cross 
 Hospital. 4. Royal Free Hospital, in Gray's-Inn-road. 5. 
 King's College Hospital, Portugal-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields. 
 6. University College Hospital. 7. St. Mary's Hospital, 
 Cambridge-place, Paddington. The Westminster relieves 
 about 16,000 patients annually, of whom more than one-half 
 are admitted on no other claim than (the greatest) the 
 urgency of their cases. 
 
 Among the Charities for Reclaiming the Fallen, the reform- 
 ation of criminals, and staying the progress of crime, the 
 Foundling, the Magdalen, and the Loch are the most 
 important. 
 
 The FOUNDLING HOSPITAL, Guildford Street, was 
 founded in 1739, by Caj)tain Thomas Coram, as ''an hospital 
 for exposed and deserted children." The ground was bought 
 of the Earl of Salisbury for 7000?., and the Hospital built by 
 Theodore Jacobson (d. 1772), architect of the Royal Hospital 
 at Gosport. The Hospital was changed, in 1760, from a 
 Foundling Hospital to what it now is, an Hospital for poor 
 illegitimate children whose mothers are known. The- 
 committee requires to be satisfied of the previous good 
 character and present necessity of the mother of every 
 child proposed for admission. The qualification of a 
 governor is a donation of 50?. Among the principal bene- 
 factors to the Foundling Hospital, the great Handel 
 stands unquestionably the first. Here, iu the chapel of 
 the Hospital, be frequently performed his Oi'atoi'io of the
 
 XXIII. — 3IAGDALEN AND LOCK HOSPITALS. 215 
 
 Messiah. Observe, — Portrait of Captain Coram, full-length, 
 by Hogarth. 
 
 ** The portrait I painted with the most pleasure, and in which I par- 
 ticularly wished to excel, was that of Captain Coram for the Foundling 
 Hospital ; and if I am so wretched an artist as my enemies assert, it is 
 somewhat strange that this, whicli was one of the iirst I painted the size 
 of life, should stand the test of twenty years' competition, and he 
 generally thouglit the best poitrait in the' place, notwithstanding the 
 first painters in the kingdom exerted all their talents to vie Avith it."'— 
 Hogai'th. 
 
 The March to Finchley, by HogcMh ; Moses brought to 
 Pharaoh's Daughter, by Hogarth; Dr. Mead, by Allan 
 Ramsay; Lord Dartmouth, by Sir Joshua Reynolds; 
 George II., by ShacJcleton ; View of the Foundling Hospital, by 
 Richard Wilson; St. George's Hospital, by ^/c/; ore? Wilson; 
 Sutton's Hospital (the Charter House), "by Gainshorovgh ; 
 Chelsea Hospital, by Haytley ; Bethlehem Hospital, by 
 Haytley ; St. Thomas's Hospital, by Wale ; Greenwich Hos- 
 pital, by Wale; Christ's Hospital, by Wale; three sacred 
 subjects, by Hayman, Highmore, and Wills ; also bas-relief, 
 by Ryshracl: These pictm-es were chiefly gifts, and illustrate 
 the state of art in England about the middle of the last 
 century. The music in the chapel of the Hospital on 
 Sundays — ^the childi-en being the choristers — is fine, and 
 worth hearing. Lord Chief Justice Tenterden (d. 1832) is 
 buried in the chapel. The Foimdling is open for the inspec- 
 tion of strangers every Monday from 10 to 4. The juvenile 
 band of the establishment perform from 3 to 4. The services 
 of the chapel on Sundays commence in the morning at 11 
 o'clock, and in the afternoon at 3, precisely. Strangers may 
 walk over the building after the services. The servants are not 
 permitted to receive fees, but a collection is made at the chapel 
 doors to defray the expenses of that part of the establishment. 
 
 MAGDALEX HOSPITAL, St. George's Fields, for the 
 refoi-mation and relief of penitent prostitutes. Instituted 
 1758, chiefly by the exertions of Mr. Dingley, Sir John 
 Fielding, Mr. Saunders AVelch, and Jonas Hanway. A sub- 
 scription of 20 guineas or more at one time, or of 5 guineas 
 per annum for five successive yeai"s, is a qualification of a 
 governor for life. 
 
 LOCK HOSPITAL, CHAPEL, and ASYLUM, Harrow 
 Road, "Westbourne Greex. Supposed to be so called from 
 the French loques, rags, from the rags (lint) applied to 
 wounds and sores ; so loch of wool, loch of hair. The Hos- 
 pital (the only one of the kind in London) Avas established 
 in 1716, for the cure of females suffering from disorders
 
 216 XXIII. — DREADNOUGHT HOSPITAL, &C. 
 
 contracted by a vicious course of life ; the Chapel in 1764, 
 as a means of income to the Hospital ; and the Asylum in 
 1787, for the reception of penitent females recovered in the 
 Hospital. A subscription of 3 guineas annually entitles to 
 one recommendation ; 501. donation, or 5 guineas annually, 
 constitutes a governor. The Loke, or Lock, in Kent-street, 
 in Southwark (from which the present Hospital derives its 
 name), was a lazar-house, or 'spital for leprous people, from 
 a ver}^ early period. There was a second betwixt Mile End 
 and Stratford-le-Bow ; a third at Kingsland, betwixt Shore- 
 ditch and Stoke Xewington ; and a fourth at Knightsbridge, 
 near Hyde-Park-corner. In one of these Locks, Bulli/ 
 Dawson died in 1699, aged 43. St. Giles's-in-the-Fields, and 
 St. James's Hospital in Westminster (now the Palace), were 
 both instituted for the reception of lepers. 
 
 The DREADNOUGHT or SEAMEN'S HOSPITAL SHIP, 
 for Sick and Diseased Seamen of all Nations ; who, on pre- 
 senting themselves alongside the ship, are immediately re- 
 ceived, without the necessity of a recommendatory letter. 
 The Hospital is supported by voluntary contributions. TJie 
 ovifiinal Dreadnought (or hospital on this mooring) fought 
 at Trafalgar under Captain Conn, and captured the Spanish 
 three-decker the San Juan. 
 
 Among the leading Societies for the Preservation of Human 
 Life, Health, and Morals, may be mentioned : — • 
 
 The ROYAL HUMANE SOCIETY, for the recovery of 
 persons from drowning, founded by Dr. Hawes; instituted 
 1774 ; and still maintained by voluntary contributions. 
 The Receiving House, a tasteful classic building, by J. B. 
 Bunning, is close to the Serpentine River, in Hyde Park, and 
 the Society's office at 3, Trafalgar-square. During a severe 
 frost the Society has 50 icemen in its employ, at an expense 
 of 45. Qd. a day for each man. 
 
 The MODEL BATHS and WASH-HOUSES, in Goulston 
 Square, Whitechapel (P. P. Baly, Engineer and Architect) ; 
 George Street, Euston Square ; St.Martin's-in-the-Fields, 
 behind the National Gallery ; Marylebone ; Westminster ; 
 St. James's, Piccadilly. That in Goulston-square, erected 
 in 1847, was the earliest in point of time, and is still, perhaps, 
 not to be surpassed. They are all self-supported, and have 
 contributed materially to the comfort and health of the 
 lower and middle classes of London. The Batlis are 
 scrupulously clean. 
 
 The Charities for the Blind, the Deaf, and the Dumb
 
 XXIV. — CLUBS. 
 
 217 
 
 are important and well deserving attention. The leading 
 institutions of this nature ai'e : — - 
 
 London Society for Teaching the Blind to Read, 1, 
 Avenue-road, St. John's-wood; institvited 1839/- School for 
 the indigent Blind, St. George's-fields, SuiTey; instituted 
 1799. AsYLUii for the Support and Education of Deaf and 
 Dumb Children, Old Kent-road, Surrey; instituted 1792. 
 
 For further information regarding the Charities of London, 
 reference should be made to Mr. Sampson Low's excellent 
 volume called the " Charities of London." 
 
 XXIV.-CLUB HOUSES. 
 
 PRINCIPAL CLUBS IN LONDON: 
 
 Those marked icith an asterisk (*) admit Strangers to dine in the 
 Strangers' Boom. 
 
 
 Number 
 
 Entrance 
 
 Annual 
 
 Where 
 
 Name. 
 
 "bers U-" 
 mited to. 
 
 Fee. 
 
 Sub- 
 scription. 
 
 Situate. 
 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 £ 5. 
 
 £ 5. 
 
 
 Alfred . 
 
 i 600 
 
 
 
 23, Albemarle-st. 
 
 *Army and Navy . 
 
 1450 
 
 30 
 
 6 11 
 
 Pall-mall. 
 
 Arthur's . . . 
 
 600 
 
 21 
 
 10 10 
 
 St. James's-st. 
 
 Athenaeum 
 
 1200 
 
 20 5 
 
 6 
 
 Pall-mall. 
 
 Boodle's . . . 
 
 j 
 
 
 
 28, St. James's-st. 
 
 Brooks's . 
 
 1 575 
 
 9 9 
 
 11 11 
 
 St. James's-st. 
 
 Carlton . . . 
 
 1 soot 
 
 15 15 
 
 10 10 
 
 Pall-mall. 
 
 City of Loudon 
 
 ! 
 
 26 5 
 
 6 6 
 
 Old Broad-st.,City 
 
 Cocoa Tree . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 St. James's-st. 
 
 ♦Conservative . . 
 
 ' 1.500 
 
 26 5 
 
 S 8 
 
 St. James's-st. 
 
 •Garrick . . . 
 
 1 350 
 
 21 
 
 6 6 
 
 King-st..Covt.-gn. 
 
 Guards . 
 
 ! Officers 
 
 fHous.Ti 
 
 oops only. 
 
 Pall-mall. 
 
 ♦Junior United Serv. 
 
 i 1500 
 
 30 
 
 6 
 
 Regent-street. 
 
 Oriental . . . 
 
 ! 800 
 
 21 
 
 8 
 
 Hanover-square. 
 
 *0x ford &C ambridge 
 
 1170 + 
 
 26 5 
 
 6 6 
 
 Pall-mall. 
 
 *Parthenon 
 
 700 
 
 21 
 
 7 7 
 
 Regent-street. 
 
 *Reform . . . 
 
 1400 2 
 
 26 5 
 
 10 10 
 
 Pall-mall. 
 
 TraveUers' . 
 
 700 ' 
 
 21 
 
 10 10 
 
 Pall-mall. 
 
 Union . . 
 
 ! 1000 
 
 32 11 
 
 6 6 
 
 Trafalgar-square. 
 
 United Service 
 
 1500 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 Pall-mall. 
 
 ♦University Club . 
 
 1000 II 
 
 26 5 
 
 6 
 
 Pall-mall. 
 
 White's , . . 
 
 550 
 
 
 
 St. James's-st. 
 
 Whittington . 
 
 
 
 2 2 
 
 Strand. 
 
 •AVindham . . 
 
 1 600 
 
 1 
 
 27 6 
 
 8 
 
 . St. James' s-sq. 
 
 t Exclusive of Peers and ^Members of House of Commons. 
 
 t 585 from each L'niversity. 
 
 g Exclusive of Honorary, Supernumerary, and Life Members. 
 
 I 500 of each University.
 
 218 XXIV. — CLUBS. 
 
 From the preceding table it vdW be seen that the twenty-six 
 large clubs are nearly in one locality ; nine being in Pall- 
 mall^ and four in St. James's-street. 
 
 UNITED SERVICE CLUB, at the corner of Pall Mall 
 and the opening into St. James's Park, erected 1826, by John 
 Nash, architect. This is considered to be one of the most com- 
 modious, economical, and best managed of all the London 
 Club-houses. The pictures, though numerous, are chiefly copies. 
 
 JUNIOR UNITED SERVICE CLUB, N. corner of 
 Charles Street and E, side of Regent Street, now (1856) 
 in coiu'se of re-erection and enlargement, from the designs 
 of Messrs. Nelson and Innes. 
 
 The AR]\IY AND NAVY CLUB, in Pall Mall, corner of 
 George Street, St. James's Square, was built 1847-50, 
 from the designs of Messi's. Parnell and Smith. The carcase 
 or shell of the building cost 18,500Z. ; the interior 16,o00Z. — 
 in all 35,000Z., exclusive of fittings. The comj^aratively 
 small plot of land on which it stands has cost the Club 
 52,500^., and the total expenditure may be called in round 
 mmibers 100,000Z. The lai'gest apartment is the "Morning- 
 room."' The ''Library" is larger than the Drawing-room, 
 The enrichments of the ceilings throughout are in carton- 
 pierre and papier-mache. The principal furniture is of 
 walnut-wood. The Kitchen is one of the successful novelties of 
 the building, and will repay a visit. There is even a separate 
 cook for chops, steaks, and kidneys, who dedicates his whole 
 time and skill to bringing these favourite articles of con- 
 sumption to the perfection they deserve. The Smoking-room, 
 with its balcony commanding a noble prospect of cats and 
 chimneys, is the best Club Smoking-room in London, the 
 I'ooms at the Union and Garrick, perhaps, excepted. 
 
 The GUARDS' CLUB HOUSE, Pall Mall, was built 
 1848-50, from the designs of Henry Harrison, architect. The 
 Club is restricted to the Officers of the Household Troops, as 
 contradistinguished from the Line. The Household Troops 
 are considered to be attendant on the sovereign, and are seldom 
 sent abroad but on urgent service. 
 
 WHITE'S. A Tory Club-house, Nos. 37 and 38, St. 
 James's Street, over against Crockford's ; originally "WTiite's 
 Chocolate-house, under which name it was established circ. 
 1698. As a Club it dates, I believe, from 1736, when the 
 house ceased to be an open chocolate-house, that any one
 
 XXIV. — CLUBS. 219 
 
 might enter who was prepared to pay for what he had. It 
 was then made a private houp.e, for the convenience of the 
 chief frequenters of the place, whose annual subscriptions 
 towards its support were paid to the proprietor, by whom 
 the Club was farmed. With reference to the gi'eat spirit of 
 gaming which prevailed at White's, the arms of the Club 
 were designed by Horace Walpole and George Selwyn. The 
 blazon is vei-t (for a card-table) : three parolis proper on 
 a chevron sable (for a hazard-table) ; two rouleaus in saltier, 
 between two dice proper, on a canton sable ; a white ball 
 (for election) argent. The supporters are an old and young 
 knave of clubs ; the crest, an arm out of an carl's coronet 
 shaking a dice-box ; and the motto, '•' Cogit Amor Xummi." 
 Eound the arms is a claret bottle ticket by way of order. 
 A book for entering bets is still laid on the table. The 
 Club, on June 20th, 1S14, gave a ball at Burlington House to 
 the Emperor of Russia, the King of Pi*ussia, and the allied 
 sovereigns then in England, which cost 9849?. 2s. 6d. Covei-s 
 were laid for 2400 people. Three weeks after, the Club gave a 
 dinner to the Duke of Wellington, which cost 2480?. 105. 9d. 
 
 BROOKS'S CLUB, St. James's Street. A Whig Club- 
 house, Xo. 60, on the W. side, but founded in Pall-mall in 
 1764, by 27 noblemen and gentlemen, including the Duke 
 of Roxburgh, the Duke of Portland, the Earl of Strathmore, 
 Mr. Crewe, afterwards Lord Crewe, and jlr. C. J. Fox. It 
 was originally a gaming Club, and was farmed at first by 
 Almack, but afterwards by Brooks, a wine merchant and 
 money-lender, who retu-ed from the Club soon after it was 
 built, and died poor about 1782. The present house was 
 built, at Brooks's expense (from the designs of Henry 
 Holland, architect), and opened in 1778. Shei-idan was 
 black-balled at Brooks's three times by George Selwyn, because 
 his father had been upon the stage; and he only got in at last 
 thi'ough a ruse of George lY. (then prince of Wales), v^•ho 
 detained his adversary in conversation in the hall whilst the 
 ballot was going on. The Club is restricted to 575 members. 
 Entrance money, 9 guineas; annual subscription. 11 guineas ; 
 two black ballsVoll exclude. The Club (like AVhite's) is still 
 managed on the farming pi-inciple. 
 
 CARLTOX CLLTB, Pall Mall (S. side). A Tory and 
 Conservative Club-house, originally built by Sir Robert 
 Smirke, but since rebuilt, 1850-6, and in every sense improved, 
 by his brother, Mr. Sydney Smirke. The portion already 
 occupied forms about one-third of the intended building,
 
 220 XXIV, — CLUBS. 
 
 and contains on the ground floor a coflfce-room, 92 feet by 
 37 feet, and 214 ^^et high, and 284 ^^et high in the centre, 
 where there is a glazed dome. On the first floor are a 
 billiard-room and a private, or house, dinner-room. Above 
 are smoking-rooms and dormitories for servants. The ex- 
 terior is built of Caen stone, except the shafts of the columns 
 and pilasters, which are of polished Peterhead gi-anite. The 
 facade is of strictly Italian architecture, and consists of two 
 orders : the lower order Doric, the upper Ionic ; and each 
 inter-columniation of both oi'ders is occupied by an arched 
 Avindow, the keystones of which project so as to contribute 
 towards the support of the entablature over them. The 
 design is founded on the E. front of the Library of St. Mark's, 
 at Venice, by Sansovino and Scamozzi. The upper order is 
 strictly after that building, except the sculpture, which 
 differs materially from that of the Italian example. The 
 lower order is also different, inasmuch as the Library there 
 has an open arcade on the ground floor, which was not 
 admissible in the case of the Club-house. The introduction 
 of polished granite in the exterior architecture of this build- 
 ing is a novelty due to the establishment of extensive 
 machinery for cutting and polishing granite at the quarries 
 near Aberdeen, without the aid of which machinery the ex- 
 pense would have utterly precluded the use of polished granite. 
 The chief object of the architect in introducing here a 
 coloured material was to compensate, in some measure, for 
 the loss of strong light and shadow in an elevation facing 
 the N. 
 
 CONSERVATIVE CLUB HOUSE, on the W. side of 
 St. James's Street. Founded, 1840, as a Club of ease to the 
 Carlton. Built from the designs of the late George Bassevi 
 and Sydney Smirke, 1843-45, on the site of the Thatched 
 House Tavern, and opened Feb. 19th. 1845. The total cost 
 of building and furnishing was 73,211^. 45. 3d, the architects' 
 commission being 3458/. Gs. The encaustic paintings of the 
 interior are by Mr. Sang, and were executed at an expense 
 of 2697^. 15s. There are 6 public rooms, viz., a morning and 
 evening-room, library, cofiee-room, dining-room, and card- 
 room. In addition to these there are committee-rooms, 
 billiard-rooms, &c. The most striking feature of the house 
 is the Hall, coved so as to allow a gallery to run round it, 
 and the staircase, both richly ornamented in colour. The 
 most stately room is that for evening occupation, extending 
 from N, to S, of the building, on the first floor. It is nearly 
 100 feet in length, 26 iu breadth, and 25 in height, with
 
 XXIV. — CLUBS. 221 
 
 coved ceiling, suppoi-ted by IS noble Scagliola Coriiatliiaa 
 columns. The morning-room on the gi'ound floor is of the 
 same dimensions, and is veiy elegant in its appointment. 
 The library occupies nearly the whole of the upper pai-t of 
 the X. of the building. The coffee-room, in the lov.-er 
 division of the northern portion of the building, is of the 
 same pi'oportions as the libi-ary. The Club is ^Yorked by a 
 staff of 50 servants, male and female, the keep of "svhom, 
 owing to judicious management, is said to be under 3^. S\d. 
 per head per week. The average at the other leading Clubs 
 is said to be from 10s. to 12s. per week. The election of 
 members is made by the committee, 5 being a quorum and 
 two black balls excluding. 
 
 REFORM CLUB, on the S. side of Pall Mall, between the 
 Travellers' Club and the Carlton Club, was founded by the 
 Liberal members of the two Houses of Parliament, about 
 the time the Reform Bill was canvassed and carried, IS 30-32. 
 The Club consists of 1000 members^ exclusive of members 
 of either House of Parliament. Entrance fee, 25 guineas; 
 annual subscription for the first five years of election, 10^. 10s., 
 subsequently, 8/. 8s. The house was built from the designs 
 of Sir Charles Barry, R.A. The exterior is greatly admired, 
 though the -nindows, it is urged, are too small. The intei'ior, 
 especially the large square hall covered with glass, occupying 
 the centre of the building, is in excellent taste. The water 
 supply is from an Artesian well, 360 feet deep, sunk at the 
 expense of the Club. The cooking establishment, when 
 under M. Soyer, was excellent, and is now very good. 
 
 ATHEX^UM CLUB, Pall Mall. Institvited in 1823, 
 by the Right Hon. J. "W. Croker, Sir T. Lawrence, 
 Sir F. Chantrey, Mr. Jekyll, &c., '-for the Association of 
 individuals known for their literary or scientific attainments, 
 artists of eminence in any class of the Fine Arts, and noble- 
 men and gentlemen distinguished as liberal patrons of 
 Science, Literature, and the Arts." The membei^ are chosen 
 by ballot, except that the committee have the power of 
 electing j^early, from the list of candidates for admission, a 
 limited number of persons, ''who shall have attained to 
 distinguished eminence in Science, Literature, and the Arts, 
 or for Public Services ;" the number so elected not to exceed 
 nine in each year. The number of ordinary members is 
 fixed at 1200: entrance fee, 25 guineas; yearly subscnption, 
 6 guineas. One black ball in ten excludes. The present 
 Club-house (Decirniis Burton, architect) was built 1829, and 
 opened 8th February. 1830.
 
 222 XXIV. — CLUBS. 
 
 " The only Club I belong to is the Atlienseum, which consists of twelve 
 hundred members, amongst whom are to be reckoned a large proportion 
 of the most eminent persons in the land, in every line — civil, military, 
 and ecclesiastical, peers spiritual and temporal (ninety-five noblemen 
 and twelve bishops), commoners, men of the learned professions, those 
 connected with Science, the Arts, and Commerce in all its principal 
 branches, as well as the distinguished who do not belong to any par- 
 ticular class. Many of these are to be met with every day, living with 
 the same freedom as in their own houses. For six guineas a-year every 
 member has the command of an excellent library, with maps, of the 
 daily papers, English and foreign, the principal periodicals, and every 
 material for writing, with attendance for whatever is wanted. The 
 building is a sort of palace, and is kept with the same exactness and 
 comfort as a private dwelling. Every member is a master without any 
 of the trouble of a master. He can come when he pleases, and stay 
 away as long as he pleases, without^nything going wrong. He has the 
 command of regular servants without having to pay or to manage them. 
 He can have whatever meal or I'efreshment he wants, at all hours, and 
 served up M-ith the cleanliness and comfort of his own house. He orders 
 just what he pleases, having no interest to think of but his own. In 
 short, it is impossible to suppose a greater degree of liberty in living." 
 — Walker's Original. 
 
 In the Coffee-room is a fine full-lengtli unfiuislied. portrait of 
 George IV., the last work of Sir Thomas Lawrence. He was 
 painting one of the orders on the breast a few hours before 
 he died. Tlie Library is the best Club Library in London. 
 There is no Smoking-room (1856), a club-rarity in London. 
 
 PAETHEXON IN Regent Street, to which in 1854, was 
 joined the Erechtheum. The club-house was built by John 
 Nash the architect (d. 1835), for his OAvn residence ; but is 
 rather small for the requirements of a club. The library is 
 a tasteful piece of architectural adaptation. 
 
 UNIVERSITY CLUB HOUSE, Suffolk Street, and 
 Pall Mall East, was built by W. Wilkins, R.A., and J. P. 
 Gaudy, and opened Feb. 13th, 1826. The members belong 
 to the LTniversities of Oxford and Cambridge. Entrance 
 fee, 25 guineas ; annual subscription, 6 guineas. The upper 
 story (built for a Smokiug-room), is an addition made in 
 1852 to Mr. Wilkins' design. 
 
 OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE CLUB, Pall Mall. Built 
 1838 (Sydney Smirke, A.R.A., architect). Entrance-money, 
 25 gtiineas; annual subscription, 6 guineas. Number of 
 members, 1000. 
 
 UNION CLUB HOUSE, Cockspur Street, and S.W. 
 end of Trafalgar Square (Sir Robert Smirke, R.A. archi- 
 tect). The Club is chiefly composed of merchants, lawyers, 
 members of parliament, and, as James Smith, who was a
 
 XXIV.^-CLUBS. 223 
 
 inembei% writes, " of gentlemen at large." The stock of ^vine 
 in the cellars is said to be the largest belonging to any Club 
 in London. Entrance-mouey, 30 guineas; annual subscription, 
 6 guineas. The Smokiug-i"oom at the top was built (1852) 
 from the designs of Decimus Burton. 
 
 GARRICK CLUB, Xo. 35, King Street, Covext Garde^t, 
 named after David Ganick, the actor, and instituted 1831 
 '•' for the general patronage of the Drama ; for the pm-pose of 
 combining a club on economical principles with the ad- 
 vantages of a Literary Society ; for the formation of a 
 Tiieatrical Library and Works on Costume ; and also for 
 bringing together the patrons of the Drama and gentlemen 
 eminent in then- respective circles." A lover of the 
 English Drama and stage may spend an hour very profit- 
 ably in viewing the collection of theatrical portraits, the 
 property of the Club, and chiefly collected by the late 
 Charles Mathews, the distinguished actor, whose portrait 
 by Lonsdale, is over the fire-place in the principal drawing- 
 room. Observe. — Male Portraits. — Xat Lee (curious) ; Doggett ; 
 Quin ; Foote; Henderson, by Gainshorouglt ; elder Colman, 
 sliev Sir Joshua ; head of Garrick, by Zoffany ; Mackliu, 
 by Opie; J. P. Kemble, dra"\ving by Lawrence; Moody; 
 Elliston, drawing by Harlou-e ; Bannister, hj Russell ; Tom 
 Sheridan ; King, by R. Wilson, the landscape painter ; 
 Emery ; elder Dibdin ; Mr. Powel and Family, by R. Wilson ; 
 Liston, by Clint (good). Female Portraits. — Xell Gwynne (a 
 namby-pamby face, not genuine) ; Mrs. Oldfield (half-length), 
 hj Kiuller ; Mrs. Bracegii'dle (three-quarter) ; Mrs. Pritehard 
 (half-length); Mrs. Cibber (also a characteristic drawing of 
 her) ; Peg Woffingtou, by Mercier, (also a miniature three- 
 quarter) ; Mrs. Abington, as Lady Bab, by Hickey (small 
 full-length) ; Mrs. Siddons, by Harloice ; jVL.'s. Yates ; 
 Mrs. Billington ; !Mis3 O'Xeil, by Joseph (full length) ; Xancy 
 Dawson, dancing a hornpipe ; Mrs. Siddons, dravxing by 
 Laicrence ; Mrs. Inchbald, by Ilarlowe ; Miss Stephens ; 
 I>L.-s. Robinson, after Sir Joshua. Theatrical Subjects. — 
 Joseph Harris, as Cardinal Wolsey (the Strawbeny Hill 
 picture; Harris was one of Sir W. Davenant's players, and 
 is commended by Downes for his excellence in this 
 character) ; Anthony Leigh, as the Spanish Friar (half-length) ; 
 Colley Cibber, as Lord Foppiugton, by Grisoni (very good); 
 Griffin and Johnson, in The Alchemist^ by P. Van Bheck (ex- 
 cellent) ; School for Scandal (the Screen Scene), as originally 
 cast ; Mrs. Pritchai'd, as Lady Macbeth, by Zoffany ; Mr. and 
 Mrs. Barry, in Hamlet ; Rich, in 1753, as Haiiequin; Garrick,
 
 224 XXIV. — CLUBS. 
 
 as Richard III., by the elder M(jrland ; King, as Touchstone, 
 by Zofany (small full-length) ; "VVeston, as Billy Button, by 
 Zoffany; King, and Mr. and Mrs. Baddeley, in The Clandestine 
 Man-iage, by Zoffany (fine); Moody and Parsons, in the Com- 
 mittee, by Vanderguclit ; Garrick and Mrs. Cibber, hy Zoffany; 
 Macklin, as Sir Pertinax Macsycophant, by De V/ildc; Love, 
 Law, and Physic (Mathews, Listen, Blanchard, and Emery), by 
 Clint (fine) ; Mathews, as Monsieur Mallet, by Clint; Mathews 
 in five character.?, hjllarloice; Farren, Farley, and Jones, in 
 The Clandestine Marriage, by Clint; C. Kembleand Fawcett, 
 in Charles IL, by Clint; Munden, E. Knight, Mrs. Orgei", and 
 Miss Cubitt, in Lock and Key, by Clint (fine) ; Powell, Bensley, 
 and Smith, by Mortimer ; Dowton, in The Ttlayor of Ciarratt; 
 busts, by Mrs. Siddons—of Herself and Brother. Bust of 
 Shakespeare discovered (bricked tip) in pnlling down (1848) 
 old Lincoln's Inn Fields Theatre. The pictures are on view 
 every "Wednesday (except in Septembei'), between 11 and 3, 
 and the only mode of seeing them is the personal introduc- 
 tion of a member. The walls of the smoking-room tone 
 of the bcit in London) Avere painted by Clarkson Stanfield, 
 David Robei-ts, and Louis Haghe. 
 
 WHITTIXGTOX CLUB and METEOPOLITAX ATHE- 
 K^EUM, 189, Strand. A cheap club for men and women, 
 founded (1817) with a view to throw open to the humbler 
 classes those increased physical comforts, and facilities for 
 moral and intellectvial education, which are the most attrac- 
 tive characteristics of modern London life, but which, in the 
 absence of individual wealth, associated numbers can alone 
 command. The dining and refreshment rooms (where mem- 
 bers may obtain dinner and refreshments at prices calculated 
 merely to cover expenses, and free of gratuities to waiters), 
 reading, news, chess, and smoking rooms, are open from 
 eight in the morning till night. 
 
 Classes are established for the study and practice of 
 languages, chemistry, vocal music, elocution, mathematics, 
 historic and dramatic literatui'e, discussion, fencing, dancing, 
 &c. 
 
 The STEAKS. A society of noblemen and gentlemen, 
 21 in number, who, in rooms of their own, behind the scenes 
 of the Lyceum Theatre, partake of a five o'clock dinner of 
 beef-steaks eveiy Saturday, from Xovember till the end of 
 June. They abhor the notion of being thought a club, dedi- 
 cate then- hours to '"'Beef and Liberty," and enjoy a hearty 
 English dinner with hearty English appetites. The room 
 thev dine in, a little Escurial in itself, is most appropriately
 
 XXV. — THE CITY. 225 
 
 fitted \ip — the doors, wainscotting, and roof, of good old 
 Euglisb. oak, oruamented with, gridirons as thick as 
 Henry VII.'s Chapel with the portcullis of the founder. 
 Every thing assumes the shape or is distinguished by the 
 I'epresentation of their favourite implement, the gridiron. 
 The cook is seen at his office through the bars of a spacious 
 gridiron, and the original gridiron of the society (the sur- 
 vivor of two terrific fires) holds a conspicuous position in 
 the centre of the ceiling. Every member has the power of 
 inviting a friend ; and pickles are not allowed till after a third 
 helping. The Steaks had its origin in the Beaf-Steak Society, 
 founded (1735) by John Eich, patentee of Covent-garden 
 Tlieatre^ and George Lambert, the scene-painter. 
 
 XXV.-THE city; AND THE CITIZENS. 
 
 The entire civil government of the City of London, within 
 the walls and liberties, is vested, by successive charters of 
 English sovereigns, in one Corporation, or body of citizens ; 
 confirmed for the last time by a charter passed in the 23rd 
 of George II. As then settled, the corporation consists of 
 the Lord Mayor, 26 aldermen (including the Lord Mayor), 
 2 sherifis for "^London and Middlesex conjointly, the common 
 councilmen of the several wards, 206 inniimber, anda hvery ; 
 assisted by a recorder, chamberlain, common serjeant, 
 comptroller, Eemembrancer, to^^^l-clerk, &c. The number of 
 liverymen is about 10,000, and of freemen above 20,000. 
 
 The City is divided into Wards bearing the same relation 
 to the City that the Hundred anciently did to the Shire. 
 The "Wards are 26 in number, each represented by an alder- 
 man, and divided into precincts, each precinct returning one 
 common councilman. The common councilmen and Ward 
 officers are elected annually, and the meetings of the alder- 
 men and common council are called Wardmotes. 
 
 The senior alderman represents Bridge- Ward without, and 
 is popularly known as " the father of the City." The alder- 
 men are chosen by such householders as are freemen and 
 pay an annual rent of 10/. ; each alderman is elected for life. 
 The civic offices are chiefly filled by second-class citizens in 
 point of station — the principal bankers and merchants 
 uniformly declining to fill them, and paying, at times, heavy 
 fines to be exempt from serving. 
 
 Q
 
 226 ' XXV. — MANSION HOUSE. 
 
 The City arms are the sword of St. Paul and the cross of 
 St. George. The City was commonly called Cockaigne, and 
 the name Cockney — one cockered and spoilt — is generally 
 applied to people born within the sound of the bells of the 
 church of St. Maiy-le-Bow, in Cheapside. "When a female 
 Cockney Avas informed that bai'ley did not grow, but that 
 it was spun by housewives in the country — " I knew as 
 much," said the Cockney, " for one may see the threads 
 hanging out at the ends thereof." Minsheu, who com- 
 piled a valuable dictionary of the English language in 
 the reign of James I., has a still older and odder mistake. 
 " Cockney," he says, " is applied only to one born within the- 
 sound of Bow bells, i.e. within the City of London, which 
 term came firet out of this tale, that a citizen's son riding 
 Avith his father out of London into the country, and being a 
 novice, and merely ignorant how corn or cattle increased, 
 asked, when he heard a horse neigh, 'what the horse did]* 
 his father answered, "^the horse doth neigh;' riding farther he 
 heard a cock crow, and said, ' doth the cock neigh too '? ' and 
 therefore, Cockney by inversion thus, incock q. incoctus, i.e., 
 raw or tmripe in countiymen's affairs." Every person of 
 full age and not subject to any legal incapacity may be- 
 come a freeman of the City of London on the payment of 
 61 5s. Ad. 
 
 MANSION HOUSE, the residence of the Lord Mayor 
 during his term of office, was built 1739-41, from the designs 
 of George Dance, the City surveyor. Lord Burlington sent a 
 design by Palladio, which was rejected by the City on the in- 
 quiry of a Common Councilman : "Who was Palladio? — was he 
 a Freeman of the city, and was he not a Roman Catholic ? " It 
 is said to have cost 71,000Z., and was formerly disfigured by 
 an uj)per story, familiarly known, east of Temple Bar-, as 
 " The Mare's (Mayor's) Nest." The principal room is the 
 Egyptian Hall, and was so called, because in its original con- 
 struction it exactly corresponded with the Egyptian Hall 
 described by Vitinivius. With the exception of this Hall, the 
 rooms are somewhat poor (recently decorated with mai'ble 
 statues by English sculptoi's). In the Egyptian Hall, on eveiy 
 Easter Monday, the Lord Mayor gives a gi-eat private banquet 
 and ball. At the dinner, covers are laid with comfort for 
 S50. The Loi'd Mayor of London is chosen annually, every 
 29th of September, from the aldemien below the chair, who 
 have served the office of sheriff; and is installed in office 
 every 9th of November, when " The Show " or procession 
 between London and Westminster takes place. This
 
 XXV. — MANSION HOUSE. 227 
 
 though pared of its former pomp, is a sight worth seeing. 
 The procession ascends the Thames from Blackfriars to 
 "Westminster Bridge, and returns the same way. The car- 
 riage in which the Lord Mayor rides to and from Blackfriars 
 Bridge, and on all state occasions thi^oughovit his mayoi'alt}-, 
 is a large lumbering camed and gilt coach, painted and de 
 signed by Cipriani, in 1757, and kept in a yard in White 
 Cross-street, Cripplegate. Its original cost was IO60Z. 3^. ; 
 and it is said, that an expenditure of upwards of lOOZ. is 
 every year incurred to keep it in repair. Here sits the chief 
 magistrate in his red cloak, and collar of SS., with his chap- 
 lain, and his sword and mace-bearers. The sword-bearer 
 carries the sword in the pearl scabbard, presented to the 
 coi'poration by Queen Elizabeth upon opening the Royal Ex- 
 change, and the mace-bearer the gi'eat gold mace given to the 
 City by Chai-les I. He i.s sworn in at Westminster, in the 
 ■morning of the 9th of Xovember, before one of the Barons of 
 the Exchequer, and then retiuns to preside at the great 
 mayoralty dinner in Guildhall, at which some of her Majesty's 
 ministers are invariably present. The annual salaiy of the 
 Lox'd Mayor is 8000^. ; and the annual income of the corpora- 
 tion of London, about 400,000/., arising from * — Coal an 1 
 Corn Dues ; Eents and Quit Rents; Markets; Tolls on the 
 Carts and Waggons of non-fi-eemen (contracted for at 5,810/. 
 a-year) ; Brokers' Rents and Fines ; Admissions to the 
 Freedom of the City ; Renewing Fines for Leases. The 
 Lord Mayor generally spends more than his income, but 
 how the Corporation money is spent is not very well known. 
 More than 25 per cent, is paid away in salaries. Thus the 
 Mace-bearer and Sword-bearer each receive ooOl. a-year. 
 The administration of justice at the Central Criminal 
 Com-t in the Old Bailey costs about 12,182/. a-vear ; the 
 City Police, about 10,118/. a-yeai-; Newgate, about 9223/, 
 a-year ; the House of Correction, about 7602/. a-year ; the 
 DebtoiV Prison, about 1955/. a-year ; and the expenses of the 
 Conservancy of the Thames and Medway (of which the 
 Lord Mayor is Conservator), about 3117/. a-year. The Lord 
 Mayor, as the chief magistrate of the City, has the right of 
 precedence in the City before all the Royal Family : a right 
 disputed in St. Paul's Cathedral by George IV., when Prince 
 of Wales, but maintained by Sir James Shaw, the Lord 
 Mayor, and confii-med at the same time by Iving George III. 
 At the Sovereign's death he takes his seat at the Privy 
 Council, and signs before any other subject. The entii'e 
 
 * ilr. Benuoch iu the Times of 23rd N.^vembc-r. lSo3. 
 
 Q 2
 
 228 XXV. — GUILDHALL. 
 
 City is placed in his custody, and it is usual on state occasions 
 to close Temple Bar at the approach of the Sovereign, not in 
 order to exclude her, but in order to admit her in form. 
 
 The GUILDHALL of the City of London is at the foot of 
 King Street, Cheapside, in the ward of Cheap, and was first 
 built in 1411 (12th of Henry IV.), prior to which time the 
 Courts were held in Aldermanbur}-. Of the original building 
 there is nothing left but the stone and mortar of the walls ; 
 two mutilated windows, one at each end ; a crypt, about half 
 of the length of the present Hall, and the remaius of a 
 former roof concealed by a flat ceiling. The front towards 
 King-street was seriously injured in the Great Fire, and the 
 present mongrel substitute erected in 1789, from the designs 
 of the younger Dance. The Great Hall is 153 feet long, 50 
 feet broad, and 55 high, contains a few monuments of very 
 ordinary character. Observe. — Pyramidical monument to 
 the great Lord Chatham, by the elder Bacon ; the inscrip- 
 tion by Burke. Monument to William Pitt, by Buhh ; 
 the inscription by Canning. Monument to Nelson, by 
 Smith ; the inscription by Sheridan. Monument to Lord 
 Mayor Beckford (the father of the author of Yathek), cut 
 by Moore; the inscription upon it is his own speech 
 spoken, or said to have been spoken, to King George III., at 
 a period of great excitement. The statues of Edward VI., 
 Queen Elizabeth, and Charles I., at the upper or E. end of 
 the Hall came from the old chapel called Guildhall Chapel, 
 pulled down in 1822. In the Common Council Chamber, 
 abutting from the Hall, observe : — Standing statue of 
 George III. (Cha-n treys first statiie); fine bvist, by the same 
 artist, of Granville Sharp ; bust of Lord Nelson, by 
 Mrs. Darner; The Siege of Gibraltar, by Copley, R.A. 
 (father of Lord Lyndhurst); Death of Wat Tyler, by 
 Northcote, R.A. ; whole-length of Queen Anne, by Closter- 
 man ; Portraits of the Judges (Sir Matthew Hale and 
 othei's) who sat at Clifford's Inn after the Great Fire, 
 and arranged all the differences between landlord and 
 tenant during the great business of rebuilding, by Michael 
 Wright. The two giants in the Hall — part of the pageant 
 of a Lord Mayor's Day — are known as Gog and Magog, 
 though antiquaries differ abovit their i^roper appellation, 
 some calling them Colbrand and Brandamore, others 
 Corinous and Gogmagog. They were carved by Richard 
 Saunders, and set up in the Hall in 1708. A public dinner 
 is given in this Hall, every 9th of November, by the new 
 Lord Mayor for the coming yeai". The Hall on this occasion
 
 -LORD MAYORS DINNER. 
 
 229 
 
 is divided iuto two distinct but not equal portions. The 
 upper end or dais is called the Hustmgs (from, an old Court 
 of that name) ; the lower the Body of the Hall. Her 
 Majesty's ministers and the gi-eat Law officers of the Crown 
 invai-iably attend this dinner. At the upper end or dais the 
 courses are all hot : at the lower end only the turtle. The 
 scene is well worth seeing — the loving-cup and the barons 
 of beef carrying the mind back to medieval times and 
 manners. The following is the Bill of Fare : — 
 
 250 Tureens of Een.l Turtle, con- 
 taining 5 pints each. 
 200 Bottles of Sherbet. 
 6 Dishes of Fish. 
 30 Entrees. 
 4 Boiled Turkeys and Oysters. 
 GO Roast Pullets. 
 GO Dishes of Fowls. 
 46 Ditto of Capons. 
 6 Ditto of Capt. AYhite*s Selim's 
 true India Curries. 
 50 French Pies. 
 60 Pigeon Pies. 
 53 Hams ornamented. 
 43 Tongues. 
 2 Quarters of House-Lamb. 
 
 2 Barons of Beef. 
 
 3 Rounds of Beef. 
 
 2 Stewed Rumps of Beef. 
 13 Sirloins, Rumps, and Ribs of 
 Beef. 
 6 Dishes of Asparagus. 
 &) Ditto of Mashed and other Po- 
 tatoes. 
 4ri Ditto of .Shell Fish. 
 
 4 Ditto of Prawns. 
 140 Jellies. 
 
 50 Blancmanges. 
 
 40 Dishes of Tarts, creamed. 
 
 40 Dishes of Almond Pastry. 
 
 SO Ditto of Orange and other 
 
 Tourtcs. 
 20 Chantilly Baskets. 
 60 Dishes of Mince Pies. 
 56 Salads. 
 
 THE EEMOVKS. 
 
 so Roast Turkeys. 
 
 6 Leverets. 
 SO Pheasants. 
 24 Geese. 
 
 40 Dishes of Partridges. 
 15 Dishes of Wild Fowl. 
 
 2 Pea Fowls. 
 
 DE3SEET. 
 
 100 Pine Apples, from 2 to 3 lbs. 
 
 each. 
 2C)0 Dishes of Hot-house Grapes. 
 250 Ice Creams. 
 
 .50 Dishes of Apples. 
 100 Ditto of Pears. 
 
 GO Ornamented Savoy Cakes. 
 
 75 Plates of ATaluuts. 
 
 SO Ditto of dried Fruit and Pre- 
 serves. 
 
 50 Do. of Presei*ved Ginger. 
 
 60 Do. of Rout Cakes and Chips, 
 
 46 Do. of Brandy Cherries. 
 
 The cost of the dinner is about 2,200?., of which the Lord 
 Mayor pays 1000/., and the two Sheriffs 550?. each.* In 
 a room abutting from the Hall is the '-'Guildhall or City 
 of Loudon Library," containing a large collection of early 
 pxinted plays and pageants, &:c., connected with the City ; 
 antiquities, '&c., discovered in making the excavations for the 
 New Royal Exchange ; and in an appropriate case, Shakspeare's 
 own signature, attached to a deed of conveyance, for which 
 the Corporation of London gave, at a public sale, the sum 
 of 147^. 
 
 * The Lord Mayors (Sidney's) evidence in the Times of 2Sth January, 
 1854.
 
 230 XXV. — TEMPLE BAR. 
 
 On the 27tli March, 1771, the Lord Llayor of London was 
 sent to the Tower by warrant of the Speaker of the House 
 of Commons. 
 
 TEMPLE BAR. A gateway of Portland stone, separating 
 the Strand from Fleet-street, and the City from the shire ; built 
 by Wren (1070). On the E. side, in niches, are statues of 
 Queen Elizabeth and James I., and on the W. side, those of 
 Charles I. and Charles IL, all by John Bushnell (d. 1701.) 
 The gates are invariably closed by the City authorities when- 
 ever the sovereign ha-s occasion to enter the City, and are 
 closed at no other time. The visit of the sovereign is, indeed, 
 a rare occurrence— confined to a thanksgiving in St. Paul's 
 for some important victory, or the opening of a public build- 
 ing like the Xew Royal Exchange. A herald sounds a 
 triunpet before the gate — another herald knocks — a parley 
 ensues — the gates are then thrown open, and the Lord Mayor 
 for the time being makes over the sword of the City to 
 the sovereign, v>-ho graciously returns it to the Mayor. The 
 mangled remains of Sir Thomas Armstrong, the head and 
 quarters of Sir AVilliam Perkins, and the cj^uarters of Sir John 
 Friend, were among the early ornaments of the present Bar. 
 Armstrong was concerned in the Rye House Plot ; Perkins 
 and Friend in tlie attempt to assassinate Wilham IIL The 
 last ornaments of this character on the Bar were the heads of 
 the victims of the fatal '-"45." "I have been this morning 
 at the Tower," Walpole writes to Montague, Aug. 16th, 
 1746, "and passed under the new heads at Temple Bar, 
 where people make a trade of letting spying-glasses at a half- 
 penny a look." "I remember," said Johnson, "once being 
 with Goldsmith in Westminster Abbey. While he surveyed 
 Poets' Corner, I said to him : — 
 
 ' Foreitau et nostrum nomen miscebitur istis.' 
 WTien we got to the Temple Bar he stopped me, pointed to the 
 heads upon it, and slily whispered me : 
 
 ' Forsitan et nostnini nomen miscebitur istis.' " 
 Johnson was a Jacobite at heart. The last heads which 
 remained on the Bar were those of Fletcher and Townley. 
 " Yestei'day," says a news-writer of the 1st of April, 1772, 
 '•' one of the rebels' heads on Temple Bar fell do^^ai. There 
 is only one head now remaining." The interior of the Bar is 
 leased from the Cit}^ by Messrs. Child, the bankers, as 
 a repository for the ledgers and cash books of their house. 
 At the Duke of Wellington's funeral (Xov. 18, 1852) Temple 
 Bar was huug with black cloth and other funeral decorations, 
 so that no portion of the stonework was to be seen.
 
 XXV. — THE MONUMENT. 231 
 
 The MOXUMENT, ou Fish Street Hill, is a fluted 
 ■column of the Doric order, erected to commemorate the 
 Great Fire of Loudou (2 — 7 Sept. 1666). The design was 
 made by Sir Christopher Wren ; the bas-rehef on the pedi- 
 ment carved by Caius Gabriel Gibber, the father of Colley 
 Gibber; the four dragons at the foiu- angles by Edward 
 Pierce, for which he had, as "Walpole tells us, 50 guineas 
 a piece : the Latin inscriptions, T\Titten by Dr. Gale, Dean of 
 York ; and the whole structure erected in six years (1671-77), 
 for the sum of 13,700Z. It is 202 feet high, and stands 
 at a distance of 202 feet from the house in Pudding-lane, 
 in which the fire originated. It is hollow, and contains 
 a staircase of 3i5 steps. Admittance from 9 till dark ; 
 charge, 2,d. each person. The urn on the top is 42 feet high. 
 "Wren's fii-st design was a pillar invested by flames, sur- 
 mounted by a phoenix ; '' but, upon second thoughts,'' he 
 says, "I rejected it, because it will be costly, not easily 
 vmderstood at that height, and worse understood at a 
 distance, and lastly dangerous, by reason of the sail the 
 spread wings will carry in the wind," He then designed a 
 statue of Charles II., and showed it to that King for his 
 approbation; but Charles, "not that his Majest}"," says 
 Wren, " disliked a statue, was pleased to think a large ball 
 of metal, gilt, would be more agreeable ; " and the present 
 vase of flames was in consequence adopted. The following 
 inscription was at one time to be read roimd the plinth, 
 beginning at the west : — 
 
 [W.J "this pillar was set VP IX PErPETTALL REME^IBRANCE OF THAT 
 M(>.ST DREADFUL BCRXIXG OF THIS PBOTESTAXT [s.] CITY, BEGUN 
 AXD CARRYED OX BY YE TREACHERY AXD MALICE OF YE POPISH 
 FACTIO, IX YE BEGIXXIXG OF SEPTEM. IX YE YEAR OF [e.] QUE 
 LORD 1666, IX ORDER TO YE CARRYIXG OX THEIR HORRID PLOTT 
 FOE EXTIRPATIXG [x.] THE PROTESTAXT RELIGIOX AXD OLD 
 EXGLISH LIBERTY, AXD THE IXTRODUCIXG POPERY AXD SLAVERY," 
 
 And the inscription on the north side concluded as follows : — • 
 
 " SED F^TiOE PAPISTXCVS QVI TAM DIRA PATRAVIT XOXDUJI 
 RESTIXGVITVR." 
 
 These offensive paragraphs formed no part of the original 
 inscription, but were added in 16S1, by order of the Court 
 of Aldermen, when Titus Gates and his plot had filled the 
 City with a fear and horror of the Papists. They were 
 obliterated in the reign of James II., re-cut deeper than 
 before in the reign of WiUiam III., and finally erased (by an 
 Act of Common Council) Jan. 26th, 1831. 
 
 Six persons have thrown themselves off the Monument : 
 Green, a weaver, 1750 ; Cradock, a baker, 1788 ; Levi, a Jew, 
 1810 ; Moyse, the daughter of a baker, 1839; a boy, named
 
 232 XXV. — mercers' hall. — grocers' hall, 
 
 Havres, Oct., 1839 ; aud a girl of 17, in 1842. This kind of 
 death becoming i:>opular, it was deemed advisable to encage 
 and disfigure the Monument as we now see it. Goldsmith, 
 Avhen in destitute cu'cumstances in London, filled for a short 
 time the situation of shopman to a chemist, residing at the 
 corner of Monvunent or Bell Yard, on Fish-street-hill, 
 
 The CITY COMPANIES of importance include " The 
 Twelve Great Companies," so called, and about six others, 
 though the total number of City Companies still existing is 
 82 : forty of whom, however, are without halls. Many 
 of these are veiy rich, but very few exercise any of their 
 old privileges. The following are the Halls of the Twelve 
 Great Companies, arranged in the order of precedence ; 
 and such was the importance attached to the Twelve, 
 that it was formerly necessary for a citizen, if a mem- 
 ber of any other than the Twelve Great Comi)anies, to 
 quit his own Company on becoming an aldei-man, and enter 
 into one of the Twelve. The precedence of the twelve is 
 thought to have originated in the selection of tvxlve citizens 
 to attend the Lord Mayor in his office of Butler at the 
 Coronation Feast. 
 
 1. MERCERS' HALL and CHAPEL, Cheapside, between 
 Ironmonger-lane and Old Jewiy. The front, towards 
 Cheapside, is a characteristic specimen of the eni'iched 
 decoration employed in London immediately after the Great 
 Fire. Observe. — Portrait of Dean Colet, founder of St. Paul's 
 School (his father was a mercer, and Colet left the manage- 
 ment of the school to the Mercers' Company) ; portrait of 
 Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the Royal Exchange and a 
 member of the Mercers' Company. Another eminent 
 member was 'Whittington, four times Lord Mayor of London. 
 Thomas a Becket, the archbishop and saint, was bora in a 
 house on the site of the Mercers' Chapel, originally an hos- 
 pital of St. Thomas of Aeon or Acars, founded by the sister 
 of Thomas a Becket, and at the dissolution of religious houses 
 bought by the Mercers and called The Mercers' Chapel. 
 Guy, the bookseller and founder of the hospital which bears 
 his name, was bound apprentice to a bookseller, Sept. 2nd, 
 1660, ''in the porch of Mercers' Chapel." That part of 
 Cheapside adjoining the Mercers' Chapel was originally 
 called the Mercery. Queen Elizabeth was free of the 
 Mercers' Company, — King James I. was a Clothworker. 
 The usual entrance to the Hall is in Ironmonger-lane. 
 
 2. GROCERS' HALL, in the Poultry, next Xo, 35. The 
 Company was incorporated by Edvrard III., in 1345, under
 
 XXV. DRAPERa' HALL. 233 
 
 the title of '•' The "Wardens and Commonalty of the ^Mystery 
 of the Grocei-s of the City of London." They had pi-eviously 
 existed under the primitive name of Pepperers, and were 
 subsequently united Avith the Apothecaries. The first Hall 
 of the Grocers of which we have any account was built in 142". 
 Their second was built after the Great Fire ; and their third, 
 the present edifice (Thomas Leverton, architect), was com- 
 menced in 1798, and opened 1802. Their patron saint is 
 St. Anthony. The City dinnere to the Loug Parliament 
 were given in Grocers' Hall, and here the Governors and 
 Company of the Bank of England held their Courts from 
 the establishment of the Bank in 1694 to 1734. Sir Philip 
 Sidney Avas free of the Grocers' Company, and the Grocers 
 rode in procession at his fimeral. Abel DiTigger, the 
 Tobacco Man in Ben Jonson's Alchemist, is '•' free of the 
 Grocei-s." The most distinguished warden in the Company's 
 list is Sir John Cutler, the penurious Cvitler of the poet Pope, 
 to whom the second Duke of Buckingham of the Yilliers 
 family made his memorable reply : — 
 
 " His Grace's fate sage Cntlei' could foresee, 
 And well (lie thought) advised him — ' Live like me.' 
 As well his Grace replied — ' Like you, Sir John? 
 That I can do when all 1 have is gone.' "—Pope. 
 
 A portrait and portrait-statue of Cutler adorn the Hall of 
 the Company. 
 
 3. DRAPERS' HALL and GARDEXS, Throgmortox 
 Street, City. The Company was incorporated in 1439, and 
 settled in Throgmorton-street in 1541, on the attainder of 
 Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, whose house and garden- 
 ground they acquired by purchase of Henry YIII. 
 
 " This house being finished, and having some reasonable plot of ground 
 left for a gai-den, he [Cromwell] caused the pales of the gardens adjoining 
 to the north part tliereof, ou a sudden to be taken do-mi; twenty-two feet 
 to he measured forth right into the north of every man's ground ; a line 
 there to be drawn, a trench to be cast, a foundation laid, and a high brick 
 wall to be built. My father had a garden there, and a house standing 
 close to his south pale ; this house they loosed from the ground, and bare 
 upon rollers into my father's garden twenty-tMo feet, ere my father heard 
 thereof; no warning was given him, nor other answer, when he spake to 
 the surveyors of that work, but that their master, Sir Thomas, com- 
 manded them so to do. Xo man durst go to argue the matter, but each 
 man lost his land, and my father paid his whole rent, which was 6s. Qd, 
 the year for that half which was left." — Stow, p. 68. 
 
 Cromwell's house w^as destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666; 
 and the new Hall of the Company was erected in the suc- 
 ceeding year from the designs of Jarman, ai'chitect of the 
 second Royal Exchange. This is the present Hall — the 
 street ornaments were added by the brothers Adam.
 
 234 XXV. — fishmongers' hall. — goldsmiths' hall. 
 
 Drapers'-gardens extended northwards as far as London Wall, 
 and must have commanded formerly a fine view of Highgate 
 and the adjoining heights. Wai'd commends them in his 
 '•' London Spy" as a fashionable promenade "an hour before 
 dinner time." Observe. — Portrait by Sir William BeecJiey of 
 Admiral Lord Nelson, and a curious j)icture, attributed to 
 Ziicchero, and engraved by Bartolozzi, of Mary, Qaeen of 
 Scots, and her son, James I., when four years old. 
 
 4. FISHMONGERS' HALL, at the north foot of London 
 Bkidge, erected 1831, on the site of the old Hall built after 
 the Great Fire by Jarman, the City surveyor. The earliest 
 extant charter of the Company is a patent of the 37th of 
 Edw. III. ; while the acting chai-ter of incorporation is dated 
 2nd of James I. The London Fishmongers were divided 
 formerly into two distinct classes, "Stock-fishmongers" and 
 " Salt-fishmongers." Then Thames-street was known as 
 ^' Stock-Fishtnonger-row," and the old Fish-market of London 
 was " above bridge," in what is now called Old Fish-street- 
 hill, in the ward of Queenliithe, not as now, "below bridge," 
 in Thames-street, in the ward of Bilhngsgate. The Company 
 is divided into liverymen (about 350 in number), and free- 
 men (about 1000). The I'uling body consists of 34 — the 
 prime warden, 5 wardens, and 28 assistants. The freedom is 
 obtained by patrimony, servitude, redemption (for defective 
 service), or gift. The purchase-money of the freedom is 105/. 
 Eminent Members. — Sir William Walworth, who slew Wat 
 Tyler: Isaac Pennington, the turbulent Lord Mayor of theCivU 
 War under Charles I. ; Dogget, the comedian and whig, v\^ho 
 bequeathed a sum of money for the purchase of a " coat and 
 badge " to be rowed for every 1st of August from the Swan 
 at London Bridge to the Swan at Chelsea, in remembrance 
 of George I.'s accession to the throne. Observe. — A funeral 
 pall or hearse-cloth of the age of Henry VIIL, very fine, and 
 carefully engraved by Sliaio ; original drawing of a poi'tion 
 of the pageant exhibited by the Fishmongers' Company, 
 Oct. 29th, 1616, on the occasion of Sir John Leman, a 
 member of the Company, entering on the office of Lord 
 Maj'or of the City of London ; statue of Sir V/illiam Wal- 
 woi-th, by Edioard Pierce; portraits of William III. and 
 Queen, by Murray ; George II. and Queen, by Sliachleton ; 
 Duke of Kent, by Beechey ; Earl St. Vincent (the Admiral), 
 by Beechey ; and Queen Victoria, by Herbert Smith. 
 
 5. GOLDSMITHS' HALL, Foster Laxe, CHEAPsroE, be- 
 hind the General Post Office, built by Philip Hardwick, R A,, 
 and o]3ened with a splendid banquet, July 15th, 1835. The
 
 XXV. SKIXXERS' HALL. 23o 
 
 Goldsmiths existed as a guild from a veiy early period, but 
 were not incorporated before 1327, the 1st of Edward III. 
 Henry Fitz-Alwiu, the first ]\Iayor of Loudon, and ^^•ho con- 
 tinued Mayor for upwards of 24 yeare, was a goldsmith of the 
 guild. The Goldsmiths' Company possess the privilege of 
 assaying and stamping all articles of gold and silver manu- 
 facture, pursuant to acts 12 Geo. II. c. 26, 21 Geo. III. c. 53, 
 38 Geo. III. c. 59, and 8 Vict. c. 22. The assays in one day 
 are about 150, and are conducted as follows : — They sci-ape a 
 portion from every piece of plate manufactured, and send it 
 to their assay master. If found ti-ue to the standard C[uan- 
 tities, the ai-ticles are passed ; if what is called of " deceitful 
 work," they are destroyed. These standard scrapings are 
 afterwards melted down and assayed by the Company, to 
 whom they belong. This last assay is a sort of -''pix'' by the 
 Company on the practice of its assayers. The Hall mark, 
 stamped on the sevei-al articles assayed, consists of the 
 Sovereign's head, the royal lion, the leopai'd of the old royal 
 arms of England, and the letter in the alphabet which marks 
 the year of the Sovereign's reign when the assay was made. 
 The allowance to the Company is 2| per cent., and the 
 receipts for stamping are paid over to the Inland Revenue 
 Office. Observe.— The exterior of the Hall itself, a noble 
 specimen of 'Mr. Hardwick's abilities — bold and well-propor- 
 tioned m every pai't. On the staircase, full-length portraits 
 of George IV., by Northcote; William IV., by Shee; George III., 
 and his Queen, by Ramsay. In the Livery Tea Room, a 
 Conversation-piece, by Hudson (Sh- Joshua Reynolds's 
 master). In the Committee Room, the original portrait, by 
 Jansen, of a liveryman of the Company, the celebrated Sir 
 Hugh Middeltou, who brought the Xew River to London : 
 porti-ait of Sir Mai-tin Bowes, ^^^th the cup he bequeathed to 
 the Goldsmiths' Company, stiinding on the table before him ; 
 (Queen Elizabeth is said to have drunk out of this cup at 
 her coronation; it is still preserved, and is engi^aved in 
 Shaw's Dresses and Decorations of the Middle Ages) : Roman 
 altar, exhibiting a full-length figure of Apollo, in relief, 
 found in digging the foundations for the present Hall : full- 
 length portraits of Queen Victoria, by Hayter ; Queen 
 Adelaide, by Shee ; Prince Albert, by Smith ; and marble busts, 
 by Chantrey, of George III., George IV., and William IV. 
 
 6. SKTXNERS' HALL, Dowgate Hill. The Company 
 was ineorpoi-ated in 1327, and the government vested in a 
 master. 4 wai'dens, and 60 assistants, A^dth a livery of 137 
 members. The Hall was destroyed in the Great Fh-e, and
 
 236 XXV. MERCHANT TAILORS' HALL. 
 
 immediately rebuilt. The present front was added by an 
 architect of the name of Jnpp, about 1808. The mode of 
 electing a master is curious. A cap of maintenance is carried 
 into the Hall in great state, and is tried on by the old 
 master, who announces that it will not fit him. He then 
 passes it on to be tried by several next him. Two or three 
 more misfits occur, till at last the cap is handed to the 
 intended new master, for whom it was made. The wardens 
 are elected in the same manner. The gowns of the livery- 
 men were faced, in former times, with budge. Budge-rovj, 
 in Watling-street, was so called of budge-fur, and of the 
 skinners dwelling there. Observe. — Portrait of Sir Andrew 
 Judd, Lord Mayor of London in 1551, and founder of the 
 large and excellent school at Tunbridge, of which the 
 )Skinners' Company have the patronage and supervision. 
 
 7. MEECHAKT TAILORS' HALL, in Threadneedle 
 Street, a little beyond Finch-lane, but concealed from the 
 street by an ornamental row of merchants' houses. Company 
 incorporated 1466. It has the honour to enumerate among 
 its members several of the Kings of England and many of 
 the chief nobility. The Hall was built, after the Great Fire, 
 by Jarman, the City architect, and is the largest of the Com- 
 p)anies' Halls. The Merchant Tailors' is the gi-eat Tory Com- 
 pany, as the Fishmongei's' is the gi-eat Whig Company. Here, 
 in 1835, a grand dinner was given to Sir Robert Peel, at which 
 the whole body of Conservative Members of the House of 
 Commons were present, and Sir Robert announced the new 
 principles of his party; and here, inl851, a dimier was given to 
 Lord Stanley, at which 200 Members of the House of Commons 
 Avere present, and Lord Stanley explamed the pi^ospects of 
 the Protectionist party. A few portraits deserve inspection. 
 Observe. — Head of Henry VIII., by Paris Bordone ; head of 
 Cliarles I. ; three-quarter portrait of Charles II. ; full-length 
 of Charles II. ; full-length of James II. ; full-length of 
 William III. ; full-len,gth of Queen Anne ; full-lengths of 
 George III. and his Queen, by Ramsay (same as at Gold- 
 smiths' Hall) ; full-length of the late Duke of York, by Sir 
 Thomas Lawrence; full-length, seated, of Lord Chancellor 
 Eldon, by Briggs ; full-length of the Duke of Wellington, by 
 W'dkie (with a horse by his side, very spirited but not very 
 like) ; three-quarter of Mr. Pitt, by Hoppner. Also among 
 the following j)ortraits of old officers of the Company 
 (ai-tists unknown). Sir Thomas White, master, 1561, founder 
 of St. John's College, Oxfoixi. Stow, the chronicler, and 
 Speed, the historian, were ]Merchant Tailors. Mode of
 
 XXV.— vintners' hall. 237 
 
 Admission. — Order from the master; for the master's addi*ess, 
 apply to the clerk, at his office iu the Hall. When Dr. South 
 was appointed Chaplain to this Company, he took for the text 
 of his inauguration sermon, " A remnant of all shall be saved." 
 
 8. HABERDASHERS' HALL, at Staining Lane end, 
 Cheapside, behind the Post-office, the Hall of the Haber- 
 dashers, the eighth on the list of the Twelve Great Com- 
 panies. The Hall was destroyed in the Great Fire, and 
 rebuilt, as we noAv see it, it is said, by Sir Chiistopher Wren ; 
 but it is more in Jarman's style. The Hall contains a mis- 
 cellaneous collection of portraits, but not one of any conse- 
 quence or merit. The Haberdashers were originally called 
 HuiTers and ]\Iilaners, and were incorporated 26th of 
 Henry VI. 
 
 9. SALTERS' HALL, Oxford Court, St. Swithin's Lane, 
 the Hall of the Master, Wardens, and Commonalty of the 
 Art or Mystery of Salters. The present Hall was built by 
 Henry CaiT, architect, and opened 1827. Oxford-coui*t, in 
 which the Hall is situated, was so called from John de Vere, 
 the sixteenth Earl of Oxford of that name, who died in 1562, 
 and was originally the site of the inn or hostel of the Priors 
 of Tortington, in Sussex. Empsou and Dudley, notorious 
 as the unscinipulous instruments of Henry YH.'s avarice iu 
 the later and more unpopular years of his reign, lived in 
 Walbrook, in " two fair houses,'' with doors leading into the 
 garden of the Prior of Toi-tingtou (now Salters'-gardeu). 
 " Here they met," says Stow, " and consulted of matters at 
 their pleasures." Observe. — Portrait of Adrian Charpentier, 
 painter of the clever and only good portrait of Roubiliac, 
 the sculptor. 
 
 10. IROXMOXGERS' HALL, on the north side of 
 Fenchurch Street. The present Hall was erected by 
 Thomas Holden, architect, whose name, with the date IT-iS, 
 appears on the front. The Ironmongers were incorporated 
 for the first time in 1464 :— 3rd of Edward IV. Observe.— 
 Portrait of Admiral Lord Viscount Hood, by Gxinsborourjli ; 
 presented by Lord Hood, on his admission into this Com- 
 pany in 17S3, after the freedom of the City had been con- 
 ferred upon him for his eminent naval services. The great 
 Banqueting-hall has recently been decorated in the Eliza- 
 bethan style, by Jackson and Sons, in papier mache and 
 carton pierre. 
 
 11. VIXTXERS' HALL, on the river side of Upper 
 Thames Street. It is a modern building, of small preten-
 
 238 XXV. — apothecaries' hall. 
 
 sions, but the Company is of great antiquity. lu the Court- 
 room are full-length portraits of Charles II., James II., 
 Marie D'Este, and Prince George of Denmark. The patron, 
 saint of the Company is St. Martin, and one of the churches in 
 the ward of Vintry was called St. Martin's-in-the-Yintry. 
 
 12. CLOTHWORKERS' HALL, on the east side of 
 MI^'CING Lane, Fexchurch Street. A small building, 
 principally of red brick, the Hall of the Master, "Wardens, 
 and Commonalty of Freemen of the Art and Mystery of 
 Cloth workere of the City of London. King James I. in- 
 corporated himself into the Clothworkers, as men dealing 
 in the principal and noblest staple ware of all these Islands, 
 " Beeing in the open hall, he asked who was master of the 
 company, and the Lord Mayor answered, Syr William Stone ; 
 unto whom the King said, ' Wilt thou make me free of the 
 Clothworkers ] ' ' Yea,' quoth the master, ' and thinke 
 myselfe a happy man that I live to see this day.' Then the 
 King said, ' Stone, give me thy hand, and now I am a Cloth- 
 worker.'" Pepys, who was Master in 1677, presented a 
 richly-chased silver cup, called '• The Lo\'ing Cup," still in 
 the possession of the Company, and used on all festive 
 occasions. 
 
 Of the other Halls of Companies the most important are. — 
 
 APOTHECARIES' HALL, Water Laxe, Blackfriars. 
 A brick and stone building, erected in 1670 as the Dispen- 
 sary and Hall of the Incorporated Company of Apothecaries. 
 
 '■ Nigh -whei-e Fleet Ditch descencls in sable streams, 
 To wash his sooty Naiads in the Thames, 
 There stands a structure on a rising hill, 
 Where tyi'os take their freedom out to kill." 
 
 Garth, Tite Dispensart/. 
 
 The Grocers and the Apothecaries were originally one Com- 
 pany ; but this imion did not exist above eleven years, King 
 James I., at the suit of Gideon Delaune (d. 1659), his own 
 apothecary, granting (1617) a charter to the Apothecaries as 
 a separate Company. In the Hall is a small good portrait of 
 James I., and a contemporary statue of Delaune. In 1687 
 commenced a controversy between the College of Physicians 
 and the Companj* of Apothecaries, the heats and bicker- 
 ings of which were the occasion of Garth's poem of The 
 Dispensary. The Apothecaries have a Botanic Garden at 
 Chelsea ; and still retain the power of granting cei'tificates to 
 competent persons to dispense medicines. In the Hall is a 
 well-supported retail-shop, for the sale of unadulterated 
 medicines.
 
 XXV.— STATIO^JERS' HALL. 239- 
 
 STATIONERS' HALL, Stationers' Hall Court, Ludgate 
 Hill. The Hall of the '•' Master and Keepere or "Wardens and 
 Commonalty of the Mystery or Art of the Stationers of the City 
 of London,"' the only London Company entirely restricted 
 to the members of its own craft. The Company was incorpo- 
 rated in the reign of Philip and jMarj^, and the present Hall 
 erected on the site of Burgaveny House, belonging to Heniy 
 Nevill, sixth Lord Abei-gavenny (d. 1587). The Hall was 
 destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, when the Stationers of 
 London (the gi-eatest sufferei-s on that occasion) lost property, 
 it is said, to the amount of 200,000Z. Observe. — Portraits of 
 Prior and Steele (good) ; of Richardson, the novelist, Master 
 of the Company in 1751, and of Mrs. Richardson, the 
 novelist's T\dfe (both by Highmore); of Alderman Boydell, 
 by Graham; of Vincent Wing, the astrologer; AVing died in 
 1668, but his name is still continued as the compiler of the 
 sheet almanacks of the Stationers' Company. The Stationers' 
 Company, for two important centuries in English history, 
 had nearh' the entire monopoly of learning. Printers were 
 obliged to serve their time to a member of the Company, 
 and eveiy publication, from a Bible to a ballad, was required 
 to be '' Entered at Stationers' Hall." The service is now un- 
 necessary; but imder the recent Copyright Act, the proprietor 
 of every published work is required, for his own protection, 
 to register in the books of the Stationers' Company, its title, 
 ownei', and date of publication, in order to secure it from 
 piracy. The fee is 5s. The number of Fi-eemen is between 
 1000 and 1100, and of the livery, or leading persons, about 450. 
 The Company's ca^ntal is upwards of 40,000/., divided into 
 shares vaiying in value from 40?. to 400Z. each. The great 
 treasure of the Company is its register of works entered 
 for publication, commencing in 1557, and now in course of 
 publication by the Shakespeai'e Society. The only publications 
 which the Company continues to make are almanacks, of 
 which they had once the entire monopoly, and a Latin Gradus. 
 Almanack day at Stationei's' Hall (every 22ud of November, 
 at 3 o'clock) is a sight worth seeing, for the bustle of the portei-s 
 anxious to get off with early supplies. The celebrated Bible 
 of the year 1632, with the important word "not" omitted 
 in the seventh commandment, '•' Thou shalt not commit 
 adultery," was printed by the Stationers' Company. The 
 omission was made a Star-Chamber matter of by Archbishop 
 Laud, and a heavy fine laid on the Company for their neglect. 
 At the Hall of the Armourers' CoMPAr^fv, Coleman-street, 
 is a noble collection of mazers, hanaps, and silver-gilt cups, 
 not to be matched by any other company in London. At
 
 240 XXV. — ARTILLERY COMPANY. 
 
 Barber-Surgeoxs' Hall, ]Moiikwell-street, City, is tlie fine 
 picture, by Holbein, of Henry VIII. presenting the charter to 
 the Company, the most important work now existing of Hol- 
 bein's painting in England. At the same Hall are two silver- 
 gilt cups, one of great beauty, presented by Henry VIII. ; 
 the otlier, scarcely inferior, by Charles II. At Weavers' 
 Hall, 22, Basinghall-street, is an old picture of "William Lee, 
 the Cambridge scholar, who is said to have invented the 
 loom for weaving stockings : the picture represents him. 
 pointing out his loom to a female knittei'. At Saddlers' 
 Hall, Cheapside, is a fine Funeral Pall of loth century 
 work, inferior, however, to the Pall at the Fishmongers'. 
 At Carpenters' Hall, Carpenters' Buildings, London Wall, 
 observe four paintings in distemper, of a date as early as the 
 reign of Edward IV. ; ancient caps and cro^^^lS of the Master 
 and Wardens. At Painter-Staixers' Hall, Little Trinity 
 Lane, is a portrait of Camden, the antiquary (son of a 
 painter-stainer), and a Loving Cup, bequeathed by him to 
 the Company, and used every St. Luke's Da}^ 
 
 The ARTILLERY GROU^^D (Finsbury Square, west 
 side,) has been the exercising ground since 1622 of the 
 Honourable Artillery Companj^ of the City of London. The 
 old City Trained Baud was established 1585, during the fear of 
 a Spanish invasion ; new formed in 1610, and a weekly exercise 
 in arms was adhered to with strict military discipline. When 
 the Civil War broke out, the citizens of London (then carefully 
 ti^ained to war) took up arms against the King ; and on all 
 occasions, more especially at the battle of Xewbury, behaved 
 with admirable conduct and courage. Since the Restoration, 
 they have led a peaceable life, and, except in 1780, when their 
 promptness preserved the Bank of England, have only been 
 called out on state occasions, such as the public thanksgiving 
 (1705) for the victories of the Duke of ^larlborough, Avhen 
 Queen Anne went to St. Paul's, and the Westminster Militia 
 lined the streets from St. James's to Temple Bai', and the 
 City Trained Bands from Temple Bar to St. Paul's. The 
 musters and marchings of this most celebrated Company 
 are admirably ridiculed by Fletcher in The Knight of the 
 Burning Pestle ; and the manner in which their orders were 
 issued, by Steele, in Xo. 41 of the Tatler. I need hardly 
 add, that John Gilpin was a Ti-ain-band Captain. 
 
 " A Train-band Captain eke vras be 
 Of famous London town." 
 
 Piince Albert is the Colonel of the Company, and the force 
 is about 250 men.
 
 XXVI. EMINENT PERSONS BORN IN LONDON. 241 
 
 XXVI.-EMINENT PERSONS BORN IN LONDON. 
 
 Sr. Thomas a Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, behind the 
 
 Mercers' Chapel in the Poultry. 
 Sir Thoilvs More, Lord Chancellor, in Milk-street, Cheap- 
 side. 
 Lord Bacon, Lord Chancellor, in York House, on the site of 
 
 Buckingham-street in the Strand. 
 The great Earl of Strafford, in Chancerj-lane. 
 The great Earl of Chatham, in the parish of St. James's, 
 
 AVestminster. 
 WiLLiAii Camden, author of •■' Britannia," in the Little Old 
 
 Bailey, near St. Sepulchre's Church. 
 John Stow, the historian of London. 
 Chaucer, the father of English Poetry, 
 Spenser, author of the Fairie Queene, in East Smithfield, 
 
 near the Tower, it is said. 
 Ben Jonson, in Hartshorne-lane, near Xorthumberland- 
 
 street, Charing-cross, it is said. 
 Milton, in Bread-street, Cheapside, where his father was a 
 
 scrivener at the sign of the Spread Eagle. 
 Cowley, in Fleet-street, near Chancery-lane, where his 
 
 father was a grocer. 
 Pope, in Lombard-street, where his father was a linen-di-aper. 
 Gray, at No. 41, Cornhill, where his father was a linen- 
 
 di-aper. 
 Lord Byron, at Xo. 24, Holies-street, Cavendish-square, 
 
 where his mother was in lodgings. 
 Inigo Jones, in or near Cloth Fair, Smithfield, where his 
 
 father was a clothworker. 
 Hogarth, in Bartholomew-close, Smithfield, where his father 
 
 was a corrector of the press to the booksellers in Little 
 
 Britain. 
 Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, in the house of his 
 
 father the Admiral, on Great Tower-hill, on the E. side, 
 
 within a court adjoining to London Wall. 
 Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, in the Piazza, Covent-gardeu. 
 Horace Walpole, in Arlington-street, Piccadilly. 
 C. J. Fox, in Conduit-street. Bond-street.
 
 242 XXVII. EMINENT PERSONS BURIED IN LONDON. 
 
 XXVII. 
 
 EMINENT PERSONS BURIED IN LONDON AND 
 
 ITS IMMEDIATE VICINITY. 
 
 KINGS AXD QUEENS:— 
 Edward the Confessor . 
 Edward I. 
 Edward III. 
 Heiiiy V. 
 
 James IV. of Scotland 
 Anne Boleyn . 
 Lady Jane Grey . 
 Queen Elizabeth 
 3Iary Queen of Scots . 
 
 SOLDIERS:— 
 
 Aynier de Valence,Earl of Pembroke, 
 
 Sir Francis Vere 
 
 Lord Herbert of Cherbury . 
 
 General Wolfe 
 
 Sir Thomas Picton .... 
 Duke of Wellington . , . . 
 
 SEAMEN :— 
 
 Sir Walter Raleigh 
 Nelson .... 
 Collingv.'ood . 
 
 Westminster Abtey. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto. [Cbeapside. 
 
 St. Michael's, Wood-street, 
 
 St. Peter' s-ad-Vincula, Tower. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Westminster Abbev. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Westminster Abljev. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 St. Giles's-in-the-Fields. 
 
 Greenwich. 
 
 Chapel of Bayswater Burying- 
 
 St. Paul's. [groimd. 
 
 . St. Margaret's 
 . St. Pauls. 
 . Ditto. 
 
 Westminster. 
 
 HISTORICAL CHARACTERS :— 
 
 Cromwell, Earl of Essex . . .St. Peter' s-ad-Yincula, Tower. 
 
 Protector Somerset Ditto. 
 
 Villiers, 1st & 2d Dukes of Buckingham, Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Duke of Monmouth . . . . St. Peter' s-ad-Vincula, Tower. 
 
 STATESMEN :— 
 Sir Thomas More 
 Sir Vv^illiam Temple 
 Savile, Lord Halifax . 
 Bolingbroke 
 Chatham 
 
 Pitt .... 
 Fox .... 
 Canning . 
 
 DIVINES :— 
 
 Miles Coverdale . 
 Bishop Andrews 
 Fullei", author of " Worthies' 
 Barrow .... 
 South .... 
 Archbishop Tillotson 
 Bishop Burnet 
 Nelson, author of " Fasts and Fes- 
 tivals" 
 
 Fox, founder of the Quakers 
 
 Wesley 
 
 Isaac Watts .... 
 Kev. John Newton .... 
 Swedenboi'g 
 
 Chelsea Old Church. 
 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Battersea Church. 
 
 > Westminster Abbey. 
 
 St. Magnus, London Bridge. 
 
 St. Saviour's, Southwark. 
 
 Cranford, near Hounslow. 
 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 St. Lawrence, Jewry. 
 
 St. James's, Clerkenwell. 
 
 St. George the Martyr, Queen's 
 Square. 
 . Br.nhill-ficlds' Burial-ground. 
 
 Weslev's Chapel, City-road. 
 
 Bunhiil-fields. [street. 
 
 St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard- 
 
 . Swedish Church, Prince's- 
 
 square, Ratcliflf Highway.
 
 XXVII. — BURIAL PLACES OF GREAT PERSONS. 
 
 243 
 
 POETS, &c:— 
 Chaucer . 
 Gowei' . 
 Spenser . 
 Sir Philip Sydney 
 Chapman 
 Ben Jouson . 
 Beaumont 
 Fletcher 
 Massinger 
 Kit Marlowe 
 3Iilton 
 Cowley . 
 Butler 
 Otway . 
 Diydeu . 
 Pope 
 
 Cougreve . 
 Gay 
 Prior 
 Addison 
 Thomson . 
 Dr. Johnson 
 Chatterton 
 R. B. Sheridan 
 Campbell . 
 Rogers 
 Tom Dibdiu 
 
 MUSICIANS ; 
 Purcell 
 Handel . 
 
 Westminster Abbej-. 
 St. Saviour's, Southwark. 
 "Westminster Abbey. 
 Site of St. Paul's. 
 St. Giles's-in-the-Fields. 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 Ditto. 
 
 St Saviour's, Southwark. 
 Ditto. 
 
 Deptford Old Church. 
 St. Giles's. Cripplegate. 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 St. Paul's, Covent-garden. 
 St. Clement's Danes. 
 Westminster Abbey 
 Twickenham. 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Richmond. 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 Site of Farringdon Market. 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 Ditto. 
 Hornsey. 
 
 St. Martin's-in-the-Fields Bu- 
 rial-ground, Camden-towu. 
 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 Ditto. 
 
 NOVELISTS:— 
 
 Bunyau Buuhill-fields. 
 
 De Foe Ditto. 
 
 Richardson St. Bride's, Fleet-street. 
 
 Sterae Bayswater Burial-ground. 
 
 Goldsmith Ground of Temple Church. 
 
 ACTORS AXD ACTRESSES :~ 
 
 Tarlton St. Leonard's, Shoreditch. 
 
 Burbadge Ditto. 
 
 Ned AUeyn Dulwich College. 
 
 Betterton Westminster Abbey. 
 
 CoUey Cibber 
 
 Garrick . 
 Mrs. Oldfield 
 Mrs. Bracegirdle 
 Mrs. Siddons 
 
 Danish Church, Wellclose- 
 
 square. 
 Westminster Abbev. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Old Paddington Churchyard. 
 
 PHYSICIANS AXD SURGEONS:— 
 
 Sir Hans Sloane Chelsea Churchyard (Old). 
 
 Dr. Mead Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Cheselden Chapelof Chelsea College. 
 
 John Hunter St. Martin"s-in-the-Fields. 
 
 Sir Astley Cooper Chapelof Guy's Hospital. 
 
 R 2
 
 24-4 XXVII. BURIAL PLACES OF GREAT PERSONS. 
 
 PHILOSOPHERS :- 
 Sir Isaac Newtou 
 
 Westminster Abbev. 
 
 LAWYERS:— 
 
 Plowden . 
 
 Sir William Follett 
 
 Temple Church. 
 Ditto. 
 
 HISTORIANS AXD ANTIQUARIES :— 
 
 Fox, author of "Acts andMomiments" St. Giles's, Cripplegate. 
 
 Camden Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Stow St. Andrew Undershaft, Lead- 
 
 enliall-street. 
 
 Spelman Westminster Abbev. 
 
 Archbishop Usher Ditto. 
 
 Oldys St. Bennet, Paul's-Arharf. 
 
 Ritsou Bunhill-fields. 
 
 Strutt St.Andrew's-in-thc-Wardrobe. 
 
 PAINTERS; 
 Holbein 
 
 Van Dyck . 
 
 Sir Peter Lely . 
 
 The two Vanderv-eldes 
 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds 
 
 Hogarth 
 
 Gainsborough . 
 
 Stothard. 
 
 Sir Thomas Lawrence 
 
 J. M. W. Turner 
 
 SCULPTORS:— 
 
 Grinling Gibbons 
 
 Roubiliac 
 
 Flaxman 
 
 ARCHITECTS :— 
 Inigo Jones 
 Sir Christopher Wren 
 
 ENGRAVERS:— 
 
 Hollar 
 Woollett 
 Strange . 
 William Sharp . 
 
 St. Cathei-ine Cree, Leaden- 
 hall-street. 
 Site of St. Paxil's. 
 St. Paul's, Covent-garden. 
 St. James's, Piccadilly. 
 St. Paul's. 
 
 Chiswick Churchyard. 
 Kew Churchyard." 
 Bunhill-fields. 
 St. Paufs. 
 St Paul's. 
 
 St. Paul's, Covent-garden. 
 St. Martin's-in-the-Fields. 
 St. Giles's Burial-ground at 
 St. Pancras. 
 
 St. Bennet, Paul's-wharf. 
 St. Paul's. 
 
 St. Margaret's, Westminster. 
 Old St. Pancras Churchyai'd. 
 St. Paul's, Covent-garden. 
 Chiswick Churchyard. 
 
 ENGINEERS :— 
 
 John Rennie .... 
 
 EMINENT FOREIGNERS :— 
 Casaubon .... 
 St. Evremont .... 
 General Paoli 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS :— 
 
 Will Somers, Henry VIII.'s jester . St. Leonard's. 
 
 Old Pan- Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Hakluyt Ditto. 
 
 Capt. John Smith, author of ''History 
 of Virginia " St. Sepulchre's, Snow-liill. 
 
 >t. Paul's. 
 
 AV^estminster Abbey. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Old St. Panci'as Churchyard.
 
 XXVII. — BURIAL PLACES OF GRELVT PERSONS. 245 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS, continued: 
 Hemiuge and Cimdall 
 Roger Ascbam . 
 Andl•e^v Marvell 
 
 Pepvs 
 
 Dr. Busbj' 
 
 La Belle Stuart . 
 
 Nell Gwyn 
 
 Duchess of Cleveland . 
 
 Judge Jefferles 
 
 Coloael Blood 
 
 Trusty Dick Penderell . 
 
 Dr. Sacheverel 
 Ludowick Muggleton 
 
 Jack Sheppard 
 Joe Miller 
 
 Cocker .... 
 Hoyle .... 
 Lady Mary "Wortley Moutagii 
 Jack Wilkes 
 Lord George Gordon 
 Joanna Soutlicott 
 
 John Home Tooke . 
 Kev. Sydney Smith 
 
 PUBLIC BENEFACTOEt 
 William Caxton 
 Sir Thomas Gresham . 
 
 CELEBRATED CHARACTER 
 1637—1649 :— 
 Charles I, 
 Lord Clarendon . 
 Prince Rupert . 
 Attorney-General Nov 
 Cleveland 
 Alexander Brome 
 Rush^vorth 
 Crom-n-ell 
 Bradshaw 
 Ireton . 
 Earl of Essex 
 Fleetwood 
 Monk 
 Pym . 
 Sir John Eliot 
 Selden . 
 Blake 
 May . 
 Lilburn . 
 
 Richard Baxter 
 Edmund Calamy 
 
 . St. Mary's, Aldennanburj-. 
 
 . St. Sepulchre's, Snow-hill. 
 
 . St. Giles's-in-the-Fields. 
 
 . St. Olave's, Hart-street. 
 
 . Westminster Abbey. 
 
 . Ditto. 
 
 . St. Martin' s-ia-the-Fields. 
 
 . Chiswick. 
 
 . St. Marys, Aldermanbury. 
 
 . New Chapel-5-ard, Broadway, 
 AVestminster. 
 
 . St.Giles's-in-the-FieldChurch- 
 yard. 
 
 . St. Andrew's, Ilolbora. 
 
 . Bethlehem Churchyard, Liver- 
 pool-street, City. 
 
 . St. ^lartin's-in-tiie-Fields 
 
 . St. Clement's Danes Yard, in 
 Portugal-street. 
 
 . St. George's, Southwark. 
 
 . Old Marylebone Churchyard. 
 
 . South Audley-street Chapel. 
 
 . Ditto. 
 
 . St. James's, Hampstead-road. 
 
 . St. John's Chapel Burial- 
 ground, St. John's Wood. 
 
 . Ealing. 
 
 . Kensal Green. 
 
 . St. Margaret's, Westminster. 
 . St. Helen's, Bishopsgate. 
 
 DURING THE CIVIL WAR. 
 
 St. George's Chapel, Windsor. 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 Ditto. 
 
 Brentford Old Church. 
 St. Michael's, College-hill. 
 Lincoln' s-Inn Chapel. 
 St. George's, Southwark. 
 "> Under Tyburn Gallows, 
 ,- Hyde Park end of Edg- 
 j ware-road. 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 Bunhill-fields. 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 Ditto. 
 
 St. Peter's-ad-Vincula, Tower. 
 Temple Church. 
 ) Pit in St. :Margaret's Church- 
 j yard, Westminster. 
 Bethlehem Churchyard, Liver- 
 pool-street. 
 Christ Church.Newgatc-strect 
 St. Mary Aldermaiy.
 
 246 XXVIII. — HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 
 
 XXVIII.-HOUSES IN WHICH EMINENT PERSONS 
 HAVE LIVED. 
 
 " There is a custom on tlie Continent well worthy of 
 notice," says the elegant-minded author of the Pleasures of 
 Memory. " In Boulogne, we read as we ramble through it, 
 ' Ici est moi-t I'Auteur de Gil Bias ; ' in Rouen, ' Ici est ne 
 Pierre Corneille;' in Geneva, 'Ici est ne Jean Jacques 
 Rousseau;' and in Dijon there is the 'Maison Bossuet ;' in 
 Paris, the ' Quai Voltaire.' Very rare are such memorials 
 among us ; and yet wherever we meet with them, in what- 
 ever countiy they were, or of whatever age, we should surely 
 say that they were evidences of refinement and sensihility in 
 the people. The house of Pindar was spared 
 Whrm temple and tower 
 Went to the ground ; 
 
 and its ruins were held sacred to the last. According to 
 Pausanias they were still to be seen in the second century." 
 Concurring in this sentiment to its fullest extent, I have 
 compiled the following list of eminent persons who have 
 lived in London, and whose houses are known. 
 
 Great Duke of Marlborough died in Marlborough House, 
 Pall-mall. 
 
 Great Duke of Wellington (d. 1852), reconstructed Apsley 
 House, as it now stands, and lived in it 32 years. 
 
 Duke of Schomberg, in Schomberg House, Pall-mall. 
 
 Great Lord Clive died in No. 45, Berkeley-square. 
 
 Lord Xelson lived at Xo. 141, New Bond-street, after the 
 battle off Cape St. Vincent and the Expedition to Teneriffe, 
 where he lost his arm. 
 
 Sir T. Picton, who fell at Waterloo, at No. 21, Edward-street, 
 Portman-square. Here his body was brought after AVaterloo. 
 
 Loi'd Hill, the hero of Almarez, in the large house, S.W. 
 comer of Belgrave-square. 
 
 Lord Ljmedoch, the hero of Barossa, died at No. 12, 
 Stratton-street, Piccadilly. 
 
 Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury, in Shaftesbur}" House, east 
 side of Aldersgate-street. 
 
 Lord Chancellor Somers, in the large house N.AV. corner 
 of Lineoln's-Inn-fields. 
 
 Duke of Newcastle, prime minister in the reign of 
 George II., in the same house. 
 
 Lord Mansfield, when only Mr. Murray, at No. 5, King's- 
 Bench-walks, Temple. 
 
 Lord Chancellor Cowper, at No. 13, Great George-street, 
 Hanover-square.
 
 XXVIII. HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 247 
 
 The polite Earl of Chesterfield died iu Chestei-field House, 
 May Fair. 
 
 Lox-d Chancellor Thurlow, at Xo. 45, Great Ormond-street, 
 ■where the Great Seal was stolen from him. 
 
 Lord Chancellor Eldon, at Xo. 6, Bedford-sc[uare, and 
 "NV. corner of Hamilton-place, Pi-ccadillv, in which he died. 
 
 Sir Samuel Romilly died at Xo. 21, Russell-square. 
 
 Ednmnd Burke, at No. 37, Gerard-street, Soho. 
 
 R. Brinsley Sheridan died at Xo. 7, Sa^'ille-ro■w, Burling- 
 ton-gardens. 
 
 Sir Robei-t Peel died at his housein Privy-gardens, Whitehall. 
 
 Milton lived in a garden-house in Petty France, now Xo. 
 19, York-street, Westminster. 
 
 Dry den died at Xo. 43, Gerard-street, Soho. 
 
 Prior lived in Duke-street, Westminster, the house 
 facing Charles-street. 
 
 Southeme lodged in TothiU-street, Westminster, facing 
 Dartmouth-street. It was an oilman's in his time, and is still. 
 
 Addison died in Holland House, Kensington. 
 
 Byron was bom in Xo. 24, Holies-street, Cavendish-squai'c. 
 and spent the shoi-t honeymoon of his married life at Xo. 139, 
 Piccadilly. In the rooms of the Albany, he wrote Lai-a. 
 
 Sir Walter Scott put up at ^liss Dumex'gue's, corner of White 
 Horse-street, Piccadilly, and at Mr. Lockhart's, 24, Sussex- 
 place, Regent's Park. He lay insensible at the St. James's 
 Hotel, in Jermyn-street, a few months previous to his death. 
 
 Shelley lodged at Xo. 41, Hans-place, Sloane-street. 
 
 Keats wrote his magnificent sonnet on Chapman's Homer, 
 &c., in the second floor of Xo. 71, Cheapside. 
 
 The last London residence of Campbell, author of "The 
 Pleasures of Hope," was at Xo. 8, Victoria-square, Pimlico. 
 
 Crabbe lodged at Xo. 37, Bmy -street, St. James's. 
 
 Tom Moore, in 1806, dedicates his " Odes and Epistles " 
 to Loi'd Moira, from Xo. 27, Bury -street, St. James's-street ; 
 and the Advertisement to the fourth number of his " Irish 
 Melodies" is dated Bury-street, Xov., 1811. 
 
 Johnson completed his Dictionaiy in the gaiTct of Xo. 1 7, 
 Gough-square, Fleet-street, and died at Xo. 8, Bolt-court, 
 Fleet-street. 
 
 Boswell died at Xo. 47, Great Portland-street, Oxford-st. 
 
 Goldsmith died at Xo. 2, Brick-coui't, Temple, up two pair 
 of stairs, and on the right as you ascend the staircase. 
 
 Gibbon wrote his Defence of his Decline and Fall, at Xo. 7, 
 Bentinck-street, Manchester-square. 
 
 Horace Walpole lived at Xo. 5, Arlington-stx'eet, Piccadilly, 
 and died at Xo. 11, Berkeley-square.
 
 248 XXVIII. — HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 
 
 Garrick died in the centre house of the Adelphi-terrace. 
 
 Mrs. Siddous lived at No. 49, Great Marlborough -street, 
 and died in Siddons House at the top of Upper Baker-street, 
 Regent's Park (right hand side). 
 
 Edmund Kean lived at Xo. 12, Clarges-street, when at the 
 height of his fame. 
 
 Archbishop Laud, Archbishop Sancroft, Archbishop Til- 
 lotson, at Lambeth Palace. 
 
 Archbishop Leighton died in the Bell Inn, Warwick-lane, 
 Newgate-street. 
 
 Bishop Burnet died in St. John's-square, Clerkenwell. 
 
 Eichardson, author of Clarissa Hai-lowe, lived in Salisbury- 
 square, Fleet-street. 
 
 Sterne, author of Tristram Shandy, died at No. 41, Old 
 Bond-street. 
 
 Charles Lamb, at No. 4, Inner-Temple-lane. 
 
 Sir Isaac Newton lived ii» St. Martin's-street, S. side of 
 Leicester-square. His Observatory is stiU to be seen on the 
 top of the house. 
 
 Sir Joseph Banks lived and held his partias at No. 32, 
 Soho-squai-e, now the Liunsean Society. 
 
 Priestley was living in Lansdowne House, Berkeley-square, 
 when he made the discovery of oxj-gen, 
 
 Francis Baily weighed the earth at No. 37, Tavistock- place, 
 Tavistock-square — the house stands isolated in a garden. 
 
 Linacre lived on the site of No. 5, Knightrider-stx'eet, 
 Doctor's Commons — the house was bequeathed by him to 
 the College of Physicians, and is still possessed by them. 
 
 Dr. Ai'buthnot, in Dover-street, Piccadilly, 2nd door, W. side. 
 
 Dr. Mead, at No. 49, Great Ormond-street. 
 
 Dr. Jenner, at No. 14, Hertford-street, May Fair. 
 
 Dr. Baillie died at No. 25, Cavendish-square. 
 
 Mr. Abernethy died at No. 14, Bedford-row. 
 
 Sir Astley Cooper died at No. 2, New-street, Spring-gardens. 
 
 Grinling Gibbons, W. side of Bow-street, Covent-garden, 
 N. corner of King's-court. 
 
 Hogarth, in Leicester-square, now northern half of 
 Sablonniere Hotel. 
 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds, centre of W. side of Leicester-square. 
 
 Gainsborough, in westernhalf of SchombergHouse.Pall-mall. 
 
 Flaxman died at No. 7, Buckingham-street, Fitzroy -square. 
 His studio still remains. 
 
 Chantrej' died in Eccleston-street, Pimlico, corner of Lower 
 Belgrave-place. 
 
 Stothard died at No. 28, Newman-street, Oxford-street. 
 
 Wilkie painted his Rent Day at No. 84, Upper Portland-st.,
 
 XXVIII. HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 249 
 
 and his Chelsea Pensioners at Xo. 24, Lower Phillimore-place, 
 Kensington. 
 
 Sir Thomas Lawrence died at Xo. Go, Russell-square. 
 
 J. M. "W. Turner lived at 4 7, Queen Anne-street, Cavendish-sq. 
 
 Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, lived in Xorfolk-street, 
 Strand, last house on left hand side. 
 
 " Honest Shippen," half-way down E. side of Xorfolk- 
 street, Strand. 
 
 Jonathan Wild, Xo. 68, Old Bailey. 
 
 Jeremy Benthani, Queen-square House, "Westminster — the 
 long low house looking upon St. Jamess-park. Bi-unel 
 perfected his block machinery in the same house. 
 
 Rev. Sydney Smith died at Xo. 50, Green-st., Grosvenor-sq. 
 
 Daniel O'Connell, at Xo. 29, Bury-street, during the sti-uggle 
 (1829) for Catholic Emancipation. 
 
 Handel lived in Burlington House, Piccadilly, with the 
 Earl of Burlington, the architect. 
 
 Carl Maria Von Weber died at Xo. 91, L'pper Portland-st. 
 
 Watteau Kved with Dr. Mead at Xo. 49, Great Ormond-st. 
 
 Orleans Egalite, at Xo. 31, South-street, Grosvenor-square. 
 
 Madame de Stael, at Xo. 30, Argyll-street, Regent-street. 
 
 Blucher, when ui England in 1814, in St. James's Palace, in 
 the dark brick house, on your right as you pass the narrow 
 opening from St. James's to Stafford House. 
 
 Charles X. of France at Xo. 72, South-Audley-street. 
 
 Talleyrand, at the house of the French Embassy, X. side 
 of Manchester-square. 
 
 Ledru Rollin, at 18, South-street, Thurloe-square. 
 
 Joseph Buonaparte and Lucien Buonaparte, at Xo. 23, 
 Park-crescent, Portland-place. 
 
 Louis Philippe's last London lodging v»-as at Cox's Hotel, 
 in Jermyn-street. 
 
 M. Guizot, at Xo. 21, Pelham-crescent, Brompton. 
 
 Don Carlos, in 1834, at Xo. 5, Welbeck-street. Here he 
 had his hair dyed, and here he shaved his moustache prepa- 
 ratory to his journey to Spain through France in disguise. 
 
 Louis Xapoleon, Emperor of the French, lodged at Xo. 3, 
 King-street, St. James's-square ; this was his last London 
 lodging. 
 
 Louis Blanc, on his flight from France in 1848, took up 
 his lodgings at Xo. 126, Piccadilly. 
 
 L. Kossuth lives at 21, Alpha-road, Regent's-park. 
 
 Jenny Lind lived in a small garden-house in Brompton- 
 lane, Old Brompton, near the Gloucester-road. 
 
 Samuel Rogers (from 1806 to 1855, when he died), at Xo. 
 22, St. James's-place, overlooking the Green-park.
 
 250 XXIX. — STREETS AND EMINENT PERSONS. 
 
 XXIX. 
 
 STREETS (HOUSES UNKNOWN OR NOT STANDING) 
 IN WHICH EMINENT PERSONS HAVE LIVED. 
 
 Sir Thomas More lived at Chelsea, in a house immediately 
 facing the present Battersea Bridge. He is buried in Chelsea 
 old Chiu-ch. 
 
 Charles V. of Spain was lodged in the Blackfriars, 
 
 Shakespeare is said to have lived on the Bankside, in South- 
 wai^k, near the Globe Theatre. He was possessed of a house 
 in Ireland-yard, Blackfriars. 
 
 Spenser died for lack of bread in King-street, Westminster, 
 and was buried in "Westminster Abbey. 
 
 Izaak Walton lived in Chancery-lane, in the 7th house on 
 the left hand as you walk from Fleet-street to Holborn. 
 
 Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood, lived 
 with his brother, in Cockaine House, in the City. 
 
 Oliver Cromwell lived in Long-acre ; in King-street, West- 
 minster ; in the Cockpit, now the site of the Treasury; and 
 at Whitehall, of which the Banqueting-house only remains. 
 
 Van Dyck died in the Blackfriai's, and was buried in St. 
 Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 Vandervelde the younger lived in Piccadilly, over against 
 the church of St. James, in which he is buried. 
 
 Peter the Great lived in a house (Pepys's) on the site of 
 the last house on the W. side of Buckingham-street, Strand, 
 and frequented the Czar of Muscovy Public House, 4S, Great 
 Tower-street. 
 
 Voltaire, when in London, in 1726, lodged at the ^^^lite 
 Peruke in Maiden-lane. 
 
 Andrew Marvell was living in Maiden-lane when he refused 
 a bribe from the Lord Treasurer Danby. 
 
 Xell Gwyn died in a house on the site of Xo. 79, Pall-mall. 
 
 Locke dates the dedication of his " Essay on Human 
 Understanding " from Dorset-court, Fleet-street. 
 
 Addison lived, when a bachelor, in St. James's-place, St. 
 James' s-street, where it is said Mi\ PcOgers, the poet, lately 
 lived. 
 
 Fielding lived in Bow-street, Covent-garden, in a house on 
 the site of the pi'esent Police-office. 
 
 Butler, author of Hudibras, died in Eose-strect, Covent- 
 garden, and was buried in the churchyard of St. Paul's, 
 Covent-gai'den. 
 
 Benjamin Franklin woi'kcd as a journeyman printer in 
 , Bartholomew-close, West Srnithfield. He lived also at ^o. 7, 
 Craven-street, Strand.
 
 XXX. — SITES AXD REMARKABLE EVENTS. 251 
 
 John Wilkes (Wilkes and Liberty) lived in Prince" s-court, 
 Great George-street, Westminster, and was buried in South- 
 Audlej'-street Chapel. 
 
 Lady Mary Wortley Montagu died in Great George-street, 
 Hanover-square, and was buried in South- Audley -street Chapel. 
 
 General Paoli died (1807) "at his house near the Edgevrare- 
 road," and was buried in old St. Pancras Churchyard. 
 
 XXX. 
 
 PLACES AND SITES (NOT ALREADY MENTIONED) 
 
 CONNECTED WITH REMARKABLE EVENTS, 
 
 OR OTHERWISE DISTINGUISHED. 
 
 London Wall : i-emains to be seen off Ludgate-liill, Tower- 
 hill, and in the churchyard of St. Giles's, Ci'ipplegate. 
 
 London Stone : which Jack Cade sti-uck with his staff, in 
 outer wall of the chui"ch of St. Switliiu Cannon-street, Wat- 
 ling-street. 
 
 Smithfield : scene of Wat Tyler's death ; of Wallace'.s 
 execution at the Elms ; of Bartholomew Fair ; and of the 
 dreadful burnings in the reigns of Henry VIII. and Mary.* 
 
 Charing-cross ; Statue of Charles I. by Le Sceur : site of the 
 last cross erected by Edward I. to Queen Eleanor, as the last 
 place at which the coffin rested on its v>'ay to Westminster 
 Abbey. Site also of the execution of the Regicides. 
 
 St. John's Gate, Clerkenwell, and the Ivnights of St. John ; 
 Cave, Dr. Johnson, and The Gentlemuii's Magazine. 
 
 Tabard Inn, Sou^thv»'ark : the starting-place of Chaucer's 
 Canterbuiy Pilgrims. 
 
 Friday-street, Cheapside, and the curious evidence given by 
 the poet Chaucer on the Serope and Grosvenor controvert}'. 
 
 Korth-East corner of St. Pauls Chm-chyard : site of Paul's 
 Cros,s, where the Paul's Cross Sermons were preached. 
 
 Rising ground in the Tower, near the chapel of St. Peter- 
 ad-Vincula : place of execution of Anne Boleyn, Lady Jane 
 Grey, &c. 
 
 * 111 Marcli, 1849, during excavations necessaiy for a nevr sewer, and 
 at a depth of three feet below the surface, immediately opposite tlie 
 entrance to the church of St Bartholomew tl^e Great, the workmen laid 
 open a mass of unhewn stones, blackened as if by fire, aud covered with 
 ashes, and human bones charred and partially consumed. This I believe 
 to have been the spot generally used for the Smithtield burnings — tlie 
 face of the sufferer being turned to the east and to the great gate of 
 St. Bartholomew, the prior of which was generally present on such 
 occasions. Many bones were carried away as relics. The spot should be 
 marked by an appropriate monument.
 
 252 XXX. — SITES AND REMARKABLE EVENTS. 
 
 Westminster Abbey : place of coronation of our kings and 
 queens, and sepulchre of many of them. 
 
 Westminster Hall : place of trial of Earl of Strafford, of 
 Charles I., and of Warren Hastings. 
 
 Nevf Houses of Parliament : site of Star-Chamber, Painted 
 Chamber, and Guy Faux' Cellar. 
 
 Almoniy, Westminster, in which Caxton erected his 
 printing-press. 
 
 Sir Thomas More's chapel on south side of chancel of 
 Chelsea old church. 
 
 Centre of St. Paul's : site of tomb of John of Gaunt, and 
 of the first Duke Humphrey's Walk. 
 
 Bridewell, Bridge-street, Blackfriars : scene of Queen 
 Katherine's Trial. 
 
 Ludgate-hill, over against Saracen's Head, where Wyat, in 
 the reign of Queen ^lary, was stayed in his rebellion. 
 
 Palace Yard, Westminster, in which Sir Walter Ealeigh 
 was executed. 
 
 Sti-eet facing the Banqueting-house at Whitehall, in which 
 Charles I. Avas executed. 
 
 Centre of Lincoln's-Inn-fields, in which William Lord 
 Russell was executed. 
 
 Pall-mall end of Haymarket : scene of the murder of Mr. 
 Thynu by assassins hired by Count Koningsmarck. 
 
 Corner of Suffolk-street, Pall-mall : scene of the bai'barous 
 revenge on Sir John Coventry, which led to the famous 
 Coventiy Act against cutting and maiming. 
 
 Maiden-lane, Covent-garden, where, in a garret, and with 
 only cold mutton before him for his dinner, Andrew Marvell 
 refused the bribe of Lord Treasurer Danby. 
 
 Gray's-Inn-lane, Avhere Hampden and Pym lived, and where 
 they held their consultations for resisting the im2)0st of 
 shipmoney. 
 
 Middle Temple Gate, Fleet-street, occupying site of former 
 gate built by Sir Amias Paulet, as a fine laid upon him by 
 Cardinal Wolsey. 
 
 Coleman-street, in the city, whither the five members 
 accused by Charles I. of high treason fled for concealment. 
 
 N, E. corner of the Parade in the Tower : scene of Blood's 
 stealing the crown in the reign of Charles 11. 
 
 Rose-alley, King-street, Covent-garden : scene of Dryden's 
 beating by bullies hired by the Earl of Rochester. 
 
 Ground between Dover-street and Bond-street, facing St. 
 James's-street : site of Clarendon House. 
 
 Hyde Park (probably near the Ring), where Oliver Crom- 
 well drove the six horses presented to him by the Earl of
 
 XXX. SITES AND REMARKABLE EVENTS. 253 
 
 Oldenburgh, and wliere, -when thrown from his seat, a pistol 
 ■SA-ent off in his pocket. 
 
 Black Jack Public-house, Portsmouth-street, Clare Market : 
 favourite resort of Joe Miller, and celebi'ated for the jump 
 which Jack Sheppard made frona one of its first-floor windows 
 to escape the emissaries of Jonathan Wild. 
 
 Eoman Catholic Chapel, Duke-street, Lincoln's-Iun-fields : 
 the first building destroyed in the riots of 17S0. 
 
 Room in Colonial Ofl&ce in Downing-street in which Xelsou 
 and Wellington met for the first and only time. 
 
 N". E. corner of Bloomsbury-squai-e : site of Lord Mansfield's 
 house, destroyed in the riots of 1780. 
 
 Barclay's Brewhouse, on the Bankside : site of Globe 
 Theatre, in which Shakespeare played. 
 
 Statue of William I^'., facing London Bridge : site of Boai-'s 
 Head Tavern, immortalised by Shakespeare, 
 
 Bread-street, Cheapside, in which the Mermaid Tavern of 
 Sir Walter Raleigh and Shakespeare stood. 
 
 Child's Baukmg-house, No. 1, Fleet-street : site of Devil 
 Taveni, favourite resort of Ben Jonson and of Dr. Johnson. 
 
 Ham and Beef-shop, corner of Bow-street : site of Will's 
 CofiFee-house. 
 
 Centre house on S. side of Great Rassell-street, Covent- 
 garden : site of Button's Coffee-house. 
 
 Essex Head, in Essex-street, Strand, kept in Johnson's 
 last years by a servant of Thrale's, and where the Doctor 
 established his last club. 
 
 Essex-street, Strand, iii the house of Lady Primrose (now 
 unknown), where the young Pretender was concealed when 
 in London (Sept., 1750) for the first and last time. 
 
 Tower-hill, on Avhich the scaffold stood on which, in 
 1747, the last person (Loi'd Lovat) was beheaded in this 
 country. 
 
 Pudding-lane, Monument-yard, in which the Fire of 
 London began. 
 
 Pie-corner, in Giltspur-street, in which it ended. 
 
 Cock-lane, Giltspur-street, famous for its ghost. 
 
 Mitre Tavern, Fleet-street, where Johnson and Boswcll 
 determined on making a tour to the Hebrides. 
 
 Grub-stx'eet, Cripplegate, now Milton-street, long cele- 
 brated as the resort of poor and distressed authors. 
 
 Alsatia, or "N^Hiitefriars' immortalised by Su' Walter Scott 
 in " The Fortunes of Nigel." 
 
 Picthatch, nearly opposite the Charter-House-end of Old- 
 street-road, called by Falstaff, Pistol's '• manor of Picthatch." 
 
 Blue Boar Inn, No. 270, High Holborn, where Cromwell
 
 2.j4 XXX. SITES AXD REMARKABLE EVEXTS. 
 
 intercepted a letter from Cliarles I., whicli is said to have 
 settled the king's execution. 
 
 St. James's-square, round which Johnson and Savage have 
 often walked a whole night for want of a bed. 
 
 House at the top of Craue-court, Fleet-street, now Royal 
 Scottish Hospital, with its handsome room built by Wren, in 
 w^hich Sir Isaac Xewton sat as President of the Royal Society. 
 
 W. end of Serpentine : scene of memorable duel betv>'een 
 Duke of Hamilton and Lord Mohun. 
 
 W. side of Gateway of Inner Temple Lane, Fleet-street 
 {a confectioner's), where, in the shop of Robinson the book- 
 seller, Pope and Warburton met for the first time. 
 
 1^0. S, Great Russell-street, Covent-garden : the shop of Torn 
 Davies, where Johnson and Boswell met for the first time. 
 
 Burlington House Gate, Piccadilly : scene of Hogarth's pi-int, 
 in which he attacks Pope for his satire on the Duke of Chaudos. 
 
 Jew's-row, Chelsea : scene of AVilkie's Chelsea Pensioners 
 readmg the Gazette of the Battle of Waterloo. 
 
 Ground between the Piazza and Bow-street : site of the two 
 gardens which led to the memorable retort made by Dr. Rad- 
 cliffe to sir Godfrey Kneller. 
 
 Howard-street, Norfolk-street, Strand : scene (loefore the 
 door of Mrs. Bracegirdle) of the murder, by Lord Mohun, 
 of Mountfort, the actor. 
 
 Fox-court, Gray's-Inn-lane : birth-place of Richard Savage. 
 
 Brook-street, Holborn, where Chatterton poisoned hunself. 
 
 Shire-lane, Fleet-street, where the Kit-Kat Club met. 
 
 Foot of Primrose-hill, where the body of Sir Edmundsbuiy 
 Godfrey was found. 
 
 Vac mt space on E. side of Faningdon-street : site of the 
 Fleet Prison. 
 
 Ground W. of Chelsea Hospital : site of Ranelagh Gardens. 
 
 House in Arlington-street, Piccadilly, in which Lord Xelson 
 and his ■\^^fe quarrelled, and saw one another for the last time. 
 
 Lansdowne House, in which Priestley was living when he 
 discovered oxygen. 
 
 House off Tavistock-place, Tavistock-square, in which 
 Francis Baily weighed the earth. 
 
 Homer-street, facing Cato-street : scene of the Cato Con- 
 spiracy of Thistlewood and his associates. 
 
 jS"o. 39, Grosvcnor-square (Lord HaiTowby's), where his 
 Majesty's ministers were to have been murdered as they sat 
 at dinner, by Thistlewood and his gang. 
 
 No. 7, Connaught-place, Edgware-road, whither the Princess 
 Charlotte hiuTied in a hackney coach when she quarrelled 
 with her father and left Warwick House.
 
 XXXI. OUT-DOOR MONUMENTS. 255 
 
 Xo. i9, Connaught-square, Edgewai"e-road : supposed site of 
 Tyburn Grallows, 
 
 Xo. 77, South Audley-street, (then Alderman Wood's), where 
 Queen Caroline lodged in 1820 and in the balcony of which 
 she would appear and bow to the mob assembled in the street. 
 
 Xo. unknown, Westbourue-place, Sloane-square (S. side ) : the 
 house which Colonel AVai-dle (d. 1S34), it was said, had under- 
 taken to furnish for the notorious Mary Ann Clai'ke (d. 1852), 
 in pai-t payment of her services in the prosecution of the 
 Duke of York. 
 
 Xo. 50, Albemarle-street Qlr. Murray's), where Sir AValter 
 Scott and Lord Byron met for the first time. 
 
 Xo. 80, Piccadilly, from whence Sir Francis Burdett was 
 taken to the Tower. 
 
 Hall of Chelsea Hospital : scene of Whitelocke's tx"ial, and 
 of the Court of Enquiry into the Convention of Cintra. 
 
 Somerset Coffee-house, Strand, E. corner of enti'ance to 
 King's College, at the bar of which Junius directed many of 
 his letters to be left for Woodfall. 
 
 Upper part of Constitution-hill, where Sir Eobei"t Peel was 
 thrown from his horse and killed. 
 
 Bankside, Southwark : scene of the attack of Barclay's 
 ■di'aymen on Marshal Haynau. 
 
 XXXI 
 
 OUT-DOOR MONUMENTS AND PUBLIC STATUES. 
 
 The MOXUMEXT, p. 231. 
 
 YORK COLL^MX, Carlton-House Gardens. A column 
 of Scotch granite, erected (1830-33) by public subscxiption, 
 with a bronze statue of the Duke of York, second son of 
 George IIL, upon the top. The column, 124 feet high, was 
 designed by Mr. B. Wyatt, and the statue, 1-4 feet high, 
 executed by Sir Richard Westmacott. There is a stau-case and 
 gallery affording a fine ^'iew of the ^V. end of London and the 
 Surrey Hills. It is open from 12 to 4, from May to Sept. 24th. 
 
 XELSOX COIiUMX, Trafalgar Square. A column 
 of Portland stone, designed by Mr. Railton, and erected 
 1840-43, surmoimted by a statue of Xelson. The statue, 
 by E. H. Baily, R.A., is formed of two stones from the 
 Granton quarry ; it has been styled " the beau-ideal of a Green- 
 wich Pensioner." The capital of the column is of bronze, 
 furnished from cannon taken from the French. The bronze 
 bas-relief of the Death of Xelson is by Carew ; of the Xile, 
 by Woodington ; of Copenhagen, by Ternouth; and of St. 
 Vincent, by Watson. To the great disgrace of the nation
 
 2-56 XXXI. OUT-DOOR MONUMENTS. 
 
 and the government, this monument to the noblest of onr 
 naval heroes is still unfinished. Four lai-ge lions in gi-anite 
 will sui'mouut the four angles at the base, and the total cost 
 of the column will be about 33,000^. The largest individual 
 subscription towards the monument was contributed by the 
 Emperor of Russia (500/.). 
 
 Bronze Equestrian Statue of CHARLES I., at Charing 
 Cross, by Hubert Le Soeur, a Frenchman, and pupil of John 
 of Bologna, cast in 1633, in a spot of ground near the church 
 in Covent Garden, and not being erected before the com- 
 mencement of the Civil "War, sold by the Parliament to John 
 Rivet, a brazier living at the Dial, near Holborn Conduit, 
 with strict orders to break it to pieces. But the man pro- 
 duced some fi-agments of old brass, and concealed the statue 
 under ground till the Restoration. The statue was set up in 
 its present situation at the expense of tlie Crown, in 1676. 
 The pedestal, generally attributed to Grinling Gibbons, was 
 the work of Joshua Marshall, Master Mason to the Crown. 
 The plinth, formei'ly of Portland stone, v/as renewed in 
 granite and raised one inch (1856). 
 
 Standing Statue of CHARLES II., at Chelsea Hospital, by 
 Grinling Gibbons. 
 
 Bronze Standing Statue of JAMES II., behind "Whitehall, 
 by Grinling Gibbons. 
 
 Bronze Equestrian Statue of WILLIAM III., in St. James's- 
 square, by Bacon, junior. 
 
 Standing Statue of QUEEX ANNE, before the "W. door 
 of St. Paul's, by F. Bird. 
 
 Bronze Equestrian Statue of GEORGE III., at Cockspur- 
 street. Charing Cross, by M. C. Wyatt. 
 
 Bronze Equestrian Statue of GEORGE lY., in Trafalgar- 
 square, by Sir Francis Chantrey. 
 
 Marble Standing Statue of QUEEX VICTORIA, in the 
 Royal Exchange, by Lough. 
 
 Equestrian Statue of DUKE OF CUMBERLAND, the 
 victor at Culloden, in Cavendish-square. 
 
 Standing Statue of DUKE OF BEDFORD, in Russell- 
 square, by Sir Richard Westmacott. 
 
 Standing Statue of PITT, in Hanover-square, by Sir Francis 
 Chantrey. 
 
 Sitting Figure of FOX, in Bloomsbury-square, by Sir 
 Richard "Westmacott. 
 
 Standing Statue of LORD GEORGE BENTIXCK in 
 Cavendish-square.
 
 XXXTl. PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 257 
 
 Standing Statue of CAXXIXG, in Palace-yard, by Sir 
 Pachai-d Westmacott. 
 
 Bronze Statue of ACHILLES, in Hyde Park, erected 1822, 
 and " Inscribed by the Women of England to Arthur Duke 
 of Wellington and his brave Companions in ai*ms;" by Sir 
 Richard Westmacott. See p. 29. 
 
 Bronze Equestrian Statue of DUKE OF WELLIXGTOX, 
 in front of the Royal Exchange, bv Sir Francis Chantrey. 
 
 Bronze Equestrian Statue of DUKE OF WELLIXGTOX, 
 on Triumphal Arch, at Hyde-Park-comer, by M. C. Wyatt. 
 
 XXXll.-PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES, SQUARES, 
 LANES, &c. 
 
 The landmarks, or central situations of London, are the Bank 
 of England, the Royal Exchange, and the Mansion House, all 
 three lying together in the ver}' heart of the city ; — St. Paul's 
 Cathedral and the General Post Office, both in the City, and 
 within a stone's throw of one another ; — Temple Bar and 
 Somerset House, the very central points of modern London ; — 
 Charing Cross ; Regent Circus, in Piccadilly ; the Piccadilly 
 end of Albemarle-street, and Apsley House at Hyde-Park- 
 corner, the leading x^oiuts of the southern side of modern 
 London; — Tottenham Court Road, the Regent Cu'cus ia 
 Oxford-street, and the corner of Edgware Road, the leading 
 points of the northern line of London. (See Clue Map). 
 
 The principal thoroughfares, or maui arteries, are Regent- 
 street, Piccadilly, Oxford-street, Holborn, the Strand, Fleet- 
 street, Cheapside, Cornhill, the Xew Road, the City Road, 
 Diiuy-lane, Chancery-lane, Gray's-Inn-lane. These are all 
 traversed by a continuous stream of omnibuses, ninning at 
 threepenny and penny fares, and are best seen from the 
 top of an omnibus. AMiat Johnson called '•' the full tide of 
 human existence," is to be seen at the Bank and Royal Ex- 
 change ; at Charing Cross ; and the Regent Circus in Oxford- 
 street. 
 
 New Road is in length . . . .5115 vards. 
 
 Oxford-street 2304 " „ 
 
 Regent-street 1730 „ 
 
 Piccadilly 1694 „ 
 
 Citv Road 1690 „ 
 
 Strand 1369 „ 
 
 The streets of London are about 2800 in number; the 
 longest street of consequence vv'ithout a tiu-niug, is Sackville- 
 Ktreet, Piccadilly. Cannon Street West (running from St. 
 Paul's to London Bridge) was formed at a cost of 200,000/., 
 and opened 22nd May, 1854. 
 
 s
 
 258 XXXIT.— PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 PALL MALL. A spacious street extending from the foot 
 of St. James's Street to the foot of the Hatmaeket, and sa 
 called from a game of that name introduced into England in 
 the reign of Charles I., perhaps earlier. James I., in his 
 '•' Basilicon Doron," recommends it as a game that Prince 
 Henry should use. The name (from Palla a ball, and Maglia 
 a mallet) is given to avenues and walks in other countries, as 
 at Utrecht in Holland. The Malls at Blois, Tours, and Lyons 
 are mentioned by Evelyn in his '' Memoirs," under the year 
 1644. Pepys mentions '•' Pell Mell" for the first time vinder 
 the 26th of July 1660 where he says, " "We went to Wood's 
 at the Pell Mell (om- old house for clubbing), and there we 
 spent till ten at night." This is not only one of the earliest 
 references to Pall Mall, as an inhabited locality, but one of 
 the earliest u.ses of the word " clubbing" in its modern sig- 
 nification of a Club ; and additionally interesting, seeing that 
 the street still maintains what Johnson would have called its 
 " clubbable " character. 
 
 Eminent Inhabitants. — Dr. Sydenham, the celebrated phy- 
 sician. He was living in Pall Mall from 1664 to 1689, when 
 he died. He is buried in St. James's Cluxrch. Mr. Fox told 
 Mr. Rogei's that Sydenham vras sitting at his window looking 
 on the Mall, with his pij^e in his moiith and a silver tankard 
 before him, when a fellow made a snatch at the tankard and 
 ran off with it. " jSTor was he overtaken," said Fox, " before 
 he got among the bushes in Bond-street, and there they lost 
 him." — Nell Gwyn, from 1670 to her death in 1687, in a 
 house on the "south side," with a garden towards the Park — 
 nowiSTo. 79, Society forthe Propagation of the Gospelin Foreign 
 Parts. The house, however, has been rebuilt since Nell in- 
 habited it. — The great Duke of Marlborough, in Marlborough 
 House. — George Psalmanazar had lodgings here on his first 
 aiTival, and here he was visited as an inhabitant of Formosa. 
 — William, Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden, 
 in Schomberg House, in 1760.— Robert Dodsley, the book- 
 seller, originally a footman. He opened a shop here in 1735, 
 with the sign of " Tully's Head," and, dying in 1764, was 
 buried at Durham. — Gainsborough, the painter, in the western 
 wing of Schomberg House, from 1777 to 1783. — At the Star 
 and Garter Tafern, William, fifth Lord Byron (d. 1798) killed 
 Q765) his neighbour and friend, Mr. Chaworth, in what was 
 rather a broil than a duel. The quarrel was a very foohsh 
 one — a dispiite between the combatants, whether Lord Byron, 
 who took no care of his game, or Mr. Chaworth, who did, 
 had most game on their manor. Lord Byron was tried and 
 acquitted.
 
 XXXII. PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 259 
 
 PALL-MALL. 
 
 — United Service i i 
 
 <^'l"^'P-^^g- I I York 
 
 Site of Carlton House. Column, 
 
 I p. 255. 
 
 Eegent-street. 
 
 *,* Pali-Mall was lighted -with 
 gas 28th Jan., 1807, and was the 
 lirst street in London so lighted. 
 The introducer of gas into Pall- 
 Jiall was Frederick Albert Winsor,, 
 a Gennan (d. 1830). , 
 
 St. James's 
 Square. 
 
 Army and Navy Club, p. 218. — 
 
 British Institution, p. xliii. — 
 
 New Society of Painters in — 
 Water Coloui-s, p. xliii. i 
 
 — Athenaeum 
 Club, p. 221. 
 
 Tnivellers' Club, by Barry. 
 The garden-front fine. 
 
 St. James's-street. 
 
 Eeform Club, p. 221. 
 
 Carlton Club, p. 219. 
 
 Office of Secretaiyof State for 
 
 War. 
 Harding's, Fashionable Haber- 
 dasher. 
 Schomberg House. In the W> 
 
 wing lived Gainsborough, the 
 
 painter. 
 79, Soc. for Prop, of tlie Gospel. 
 
 Site of Nell Gvrynn's house. 
 Oxford and Cambridge Club, 
 
 p. 222. 
 
 Guards' Club, p. 21S. 
 
 5Inrlboroi!gh House, p. 1C9, tlie 
 great Duke of Marlborough 
 died here. Vernon Gallery. 
 Department of Practical Art. 
 
 St. James's Palace. 
 
 s2
 
 2G0 XXXIl. — PRINCIPAL THOKOUGHFAKES. 
 
 PICCADILLY, a street consisting of shops and fasliiouable 
 dwelling-hovises running E. and W. from the top of tlic 
 Haymarket to Hyde-park Corner. The earliest allusion to 
 it is in Gerard, wlio observes in his Herbal (1596) "that tlie 
 small wild buglosse grows upon the drie ditch bankes about 
 Pickadilla," The origin of the name is somewhat unceriain, 
 but the most likely solution is, that it was so called after one 
 Higgins, a tailor, who built it temp. James I., and who got 
 most of his estate by pickadilles, a kind of stiff collar, much 
 worn in England from 1605 to 1620. 
 
 The first Piccadilly, taking the word in its modern accep- 
 tation of a street, was a xerj short line of road, running no 
 further \>f. than the foot of Sackville-street, and the name 
 Piccadilly-street occurs for the first time in the rate-books of 
 St. Martin's, undo]" the year 1673. Sir Thomas Clarges's house, 
 on the site of the present Alba,ny, is described in 1675 as 
 "near Burlington House, above Piccadilly." From Sackville- 
 street to Albcmarle-street was originally called Portugal- 
 street, after Catherine of Braganza, Queen of Charles XL, and 
 all beyond was the great Bath-road, or, as Agas calls it (1560) 
 "the waj^to Reding." The Piccadilly of 1708 is described 
 as " a very considerable and publick street, between Coventry- 
 street and Portugal-street;" and the Piccadilly of 1720 as 
 " a large street and great thoroughfare, between Coventry- 
 street and Albemarle-street." Portugal-street gave way to 
 Piccadilly in the reign of George I. That part of the liresent 
 street, between Devonshire House and Hyde-pai'k Corner, 
 was taken Tip, as Pi,alph tells us, in 1734, by the shops and 
 stone-yards of statuaries, just as the Mew-road is now. We 
 may read the history of the street in the names of several of 
 the surrounding thoroixghftxres and buildings. Albemarle- 
 street was so called after Christopher Monk, second Duke of 
 Albemarle, to whom Clarendon House was sold in 1675, by 
 Laurence Hyde, Earl of Rochester, son of the gi^eat Lord 
 Clai-endon. Bond-street was so called after Sir Thomas 
 Bond, of Peckhain, to whom Clarendon House Avas sold by 
 the Duke of Albemarle when in difficulties, a little before 
 liis death. Jermyn-street was so called after Henry Jermyn, 
 ]-:arl of St. Alban, who died 1683-4; Burlington House after 
 Boyle, Earl of Burlington ; Dover-street, after Henry Jermyn, 
 Lox-d Dover (d. 1708), the little Jermyn of De Gramniont's 
 Memoirs ; Berkeley-street and Stratton-street, after John, 
 Lord Berkeley of Stratton, Lord Deputy of Ireland in the 
 veign of Charles II. ; Clarges-street, after Sir Walter Clarges, 
 the nei^hew of Ann Clarges, wife of General Monk ; and 
 Arlington-street and Bennet-street after Heiny Bennet, Earl
 
 XXXII. PRIXCirAL THOROUGHFARES, 2C1 
 
 of Arlington, ono of the Caljal. Air-street was built iu 1650, 
 Stratton-street in 1693, and Boltou-street was, iu 1708, the 
 most westerly street in London. Devonshire House occupies 
 the site of Berkeley House, in Avhich the fir^t Duke of 
 Devonshire died (1707). Hamilton-place derives its name 
 from James Hamilton, ranger of Hyde-park in the reigu of 
 Charles II., aud brother of La Belle Hamilton. Halfmoon- 
 street M-as so called from the Halfmoon Tavern. Coventry 
 House, No. 106, was built on the site of an old inn, called the 
 Greyhound. Apsley House was called after Apsley, Earl of 
 Bathurst, who built it late in the last centuiy : and tlie 
 Albany, from the Duke of York and Albany, brother of 
 George IV. 8t. James's Church (by "SVren) vras conseci-ated 
 on Sunday, the 13th of July, 168-1. The sexton's book of 
 St. Martin's informs us that the Yriiite Bear Inn was in 
 existence iu 1685: and Stryj)e, in his new edition of StoAv, 
 that there was a White Horse Cellar iu Piccadilly in 1720. 
 The two Corinthian pilastei-s, one on each side of the Three 
 Kings Inn gateway in Piccadilly, belonged to Clarendon 
 House, and are, it is thought, the only remains of that edifice. 
 Sir Vrilliam Petty, our first writer of authority on political 
 arithmetic, died in a house over against St. James's Church 
 (1687). Xext but one to Sir William Petty, Yenio, the 
 painter, was liviug in 1675. In the dark-red-brick rectory 
 hoiise, at the X. side of the church, pulled down 1818, and 
 immediately rebuilt (now Xo. 197), lived and died Dr. Samuel 
 Clarke, rector of St. James's, from 1709 till his death iu 172'.'. 
 Here he edited Caesar and Homer ; here he wrote his Scrip- 
 ture Doctrine of the Trinity, and his Treatise on the Being 
 and Attribu.te3 of God. In Coventry House, facing the 
 Green Park, corner of Eng-ine-street (uov\' the Ambassadors' 
 Club), died, iu 1809, William, sixth Earl of Coventry, married, 
 in 1752, to the eldest of the three beautiful Miss Gimuings. 
 In what v>-as then Xo. 23, nov.' the first house E. of Hertford 
 House, died (1803), Sir William Hamilton, collector of the 
 Hamiltonian gems, but more generally knovrn as the husband 
 of Xelson's Lady Hamilton. From Xo. 80, Sir Francis 
 Burdett was taken to the Tower, April 6th, 1810 ; the officer, 
 armed with an arrest- warrant, scaling the house with a ladder, 
 aud entci'ing the window of the drav.-iug-room, where Sir 
 Francis was found instructing his son in Magna Charta, the 
 sti'eet being occupied by the Horse Guards. Xo. 105, now 
 Hertford House, was the old Pulteney Hotel; here the 
 Emperor of Russia put up during the memorable visit of the 
 allied sovereigns in 1814 : and here the Duchess of Oldeu- 
 burgh (the Emperor Alexander's sister) introduced Prince
 
 262 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 Leopold to the Princess Charlotte. In the large brick house 
 No. 1, Stratton -street, died (1837) IMrs. Coutts, afterwards 
 Duchess of St. Albans, — ^it is now Miss Coutts Burdett's. Lord 
 Eldon's house, at the corner of Hamilton-place, was built by his 
 grandfathei', Lord Chancellor Eldon, who died in it. Nos. 
 138 and 139 vrere all one house in the old Duke of Queens- 
 bury's time. Here, in the balcony, on fine days in simimer, 
 he used to sit, a thin, withered old figure, with one eye, 
 looking on all the females that passed him, and not dis- 
 pleased if they returned him whole Avinks for his single ones, 
 he had been Prince of the Jockies of his time, and was a 
 voluptuary and milliouuaire. "Old Q." was his popular 
 appellation. At the Duchess of Gloucester's, at the corner 
 of Park-lane, once Lord Elgin's, and where the Elgin marbles 
 were placed on their first arrival in this country, is a very 
 beautiful carpet in sixty squares, w'orked by sixty of the prin- 
 ciprJ ladies among the aristoci\acy. No. 94 was formerly 
 Egremont House, then Cholmondeley House, next Cambridge 
 House, recently tenanted by Sir Richard Sutton, the ground 
 landlord of half of Piccadilly. The Duke of Cambridge, 
 youngest son of George HI., died in this house. The bay- 
 fronted house at the W. corner of Whitehoi'se-street was the 
 residence of M. Charles Dumergue, the friend of Sir Walter 
 Scott ; until a child of his own was established in London, 
 this was Scott's head-quarters when in town. The London 
 season of Lord Byron's married life w^as passed in that half 
 of the Duke of Queensbury's house, now No. 139. Here he 
 brought his wife, and that hag of a house maid, Mrs. Mule, 
 of whom Moore has given an amusing account. On the pave- 
 ment opposite Lord AVilloughby D'Eresby's, next but one 
 W. to Hamilton-place, stood the Hercules Pillars public- 
 house, where Squire Western put his horses up when in 
 pursuit of Tom Jones, and Vv'here that bluff brave soldier, 
 the Marquis of Granby (d. 1770), spent many a happy hour. 
 On the south side, facing Old Bond-street, was the shop of 
 Wright, the bookseller, where Gifford assaulted Peter Pindar 
 and got the better of him in the struggle. The house two 
 doors E. of the Duke of Wellington's was long the London 
 I'esidence of Beck ford, author of Vathek. In the most 
 westerly of the two brick houses between Apsley House and 
 Hamilton-place, the late Marquis of Northampton gave his 
 soirees, as President of the Royal Societj^. In the other brick 
 house (No. 14'!) lives Lord Palmerston, Prime Minister of 
 England.
 
 XXXII. PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 263 
 
 PICCADILLY. 
 
 St. George's 
 Hospital. 
 Grosvenor-place. Hyde Park Corner. 
 
 W. 
 
 ^/ The Green Park. 
 
 •2^ 
 
 Eesei'voir of Water\vorks 
 Company. 
 
 Arlington-street. — 
 No. 5, K. "Walpole's house. 
 
 St. James" s-street. — 
 Egyptian Hall. — 
 Ludlam, hosier. — 
 
 Grange, fruiterer. — 
 
 Duke-street. — 
 
 Fortnum & Masons. — 
 
 St. James's Church. + 
 
 3t; 
 
 
 
 
 <0 
 
 Apsley House. Duke of 
 vrellington. 
 
 ■ Hamilton-place. Lord Chan- 
 cellor Eldond. (1838) in corner 
 house. No. 139, Lord Byron 
 lived at. 
 
 ■ Park-lane, leading to Oxford- 
 
 street. 
 
 DoTm-street. Mr. Hope's 
 
 house, p. 25. 
 Engine-street. Hertford 
 
 House, p. 22. 
 
 ■ Whitehorse-street. At west 
 corner Sir Walter Scott 
 usually lived T\-hen in 
 town. 
 
 H^Lf Moon-street. East corner 
 house Madame d' Arblay lived . 
 
 Clarges-street. 
 
 Bolton-street. Bath House.p. 20. 
 
 Stratton-street. West corner 
 house, Miss Burdett Coutts. 
 Devonshire House. 
 
 Berkeley-street, 
 
 • 
 Dover-street. 
 
 At Three Kings' stables, re- 
 mains of Clarendon House. 
 
 ■ Albemarle-street. 
 
 • Bond-street. In No. 41, died 
 
 Sterne. 
 Burlington Arcade. 
 Burlington House, 
 
 ■ Albany (let in lodgings.) 
 
 • Sackville-street. 
 
 • Swallovr-street. Scottish 
 
 Church. 
 
 ■ Air-street. 
 
 • Swan & Edgar.
 
 2G4 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S STREET commences at St. James's Palace 
 
 and extends to Albcmarle-street. 
 
 " The Campus Martins of St. James's-sti'eet 
 \Yhere the t)eaii.s" cavalrj^ pace to and fro. 
 Before they take the field in Rotten Row." 
 
 Pi. U. Sheridan. 
 
 Observe. — East side, "White's Club-house, Xos. 37 and 38 ; 
 Boodle's Club-house. Xo. 28 ; and on the west side, Crock- 
 ford's, two doors from to^) (and now closed) ; Brooks's Club- 
 house, No. GO ; Arthur's, Xo. 69 ; Conservative Club, Xo. 8.5 ; 
 Thatched House Tavern, containing three portraits, two very 
 fine, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Euiincnt Inhahltants. — "Waller, 
 the poet, from 1660 till the period of his death (1687) in a 
 house on the west side. Pope, in "lodgings at Mr. Digby's, 
 next door to y^ Golden Ball, on y'^ Second Terras in St. 
 James's-street." Gibbon, the historian, died, 1794, in iN'o. 
 76 (S. corner of Little St. James's-street), then Elmsley the 
 bookseller's, now the site of the Conservative Club. Lord 
 Byron, in lodgings, at No 8, in 181L 
 
 '• When -we Mere on the point of .setting out from his lodging in St. 
 James's-street [to go to Sydenham to Tom CampbcH's], it being theu 
 about mid-day, he said to the servant, who was shutting the door of tlie 
 vis-;i-vis, 'Have you put in the pistols?' and was answered in the 
 affinnative." — Moore's L''fe of B'jron. 
 
 Gillray, the caricaturist (d. 1815), in Xo. 29, over what v.-as 
 then the shop of Messrs. Humphrey, the print-sellers and 
 publishers* He threvv- himself out of an upstairs window, 
 and died of the injuries he received. In this street Blood 
 made his desperate attack on the great Duke of Ormond, 
 when on his way home between 6 and 7 in the evening 
 (Tuesday, Dec. 6th, 1670), to Clarendon House, at the top of 
 St. James's Street, where he then resided. The six footmen 
 who invariably attended the duke, walking on both sides of 
 the street, over against the coach, v.-ere by some contrivance 
 stopped, or by some mismanagement were not in the way, 
 and the duke was dragged out of his can-iage, buckled to a 
 person of great strength, and actually carried past Berkeley 
 House (now Devonshire House) in Piccachlly, on the road to 
 Tybui-n, where they intended to have hanged him. The 
 coachman drove to Clarendon House, told the porter that his 
 master had been seized by two men, who had carried him 
 down Piccadilly. A chace v/as immediately made, and the 
 duke discovered in a violent struggle in the mud with the 
 villain he was tied to, who regained his horse, fired a pistol 
 at the duke, and made his escape.
 
 XXXII. PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S STREET. 
 
 205 
 
 Piccailillv. 
 
 Piccadilly. 
 
 Lord Wp.Uingham. ' .. 
 Duke of Hamilton, p 
 Joshua Bates, Esq. |x 
 Mar(i. of Salisburj". ' § 
 Earl of Zetland. \^ 
 Rt. Hon. E. Ellice. j^ 
 Earlof Yarborough. '^ 
 
 No. 5, 
 Iloi-ace r, 
 \\alpole - 
 
 lived 
 
 x-kfortl's. 
 
 White's Club House. 
 
 >/ 
 
 pis <B 
 =1-1 s 
 
 n House of 
 
 thelucMr. 
 
 Rogers (Pott). 
 
 Brooks's CIuIj 
 
 Old Cocoa-tree Cluij, 64. 
 
 St. James's-place. 
 
 Jenny n-street. 
 
 Site -ivhore Sir Rich.; « 
 Steele lived. ' |k 
 
 Gillray, the caricaturist, killed 
 himself from -windo-R- of No. 2?. 
 
 Ryder-street. 
 
 King-street. 
 
 Almack's 
 
 Spencer House. 
 
 No. 69, Arthurs Club. - 
 No. 74, Conservative C'luh.- 
 In a house on this site died 
 Gibbon, the historian. 
 
 Thatched House. - 
 ilettauti Portraits. 
 
 No. S, Lord P.vron's lodgings 
 inlSll. 
 
 Pall Mall. 
 
 St. James's Palace.
 
 266 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 REGEXT STREET. The most liaudsome street in the 
 metropolis. It was designed and carried out by Mr. John 
 Xash, architect, under an Act of Parliament obtained in 
 1813. The street was intended as a communication from 
 Carlton House to the Regent's Park, and commenced at St. 
 Alban's-street, facing Carlton House, thence thi'ough St. 
 James's Market across Piccadilly to Castle-street, where it 
 formed a Quadrant, to intersect with Swallow-street, and 
 then, taking the line of Swallow-street, (the site of which is 
 about the centre of Regent-street;) it crossed Oxford-street 
 to Foley House, where it intersected with Portland-place, 
 The reason for adopting this line was that great part of the 
 property belonged to the Crown. Langham-place Church 
 v/as built by Nash as a termination to the view up Regent- 
 street from Oxford-street. For this pvirpose the tower and 
 spire are advanced forward to the centre line of the street, 
 and appear almost isolated from the chui'ch. In his designs 
 for Regent-street, Mr. Kash adopted the idea of uniting 
 several dwellings into a single fayade, so as to preserve a 
 degree of continuity essential to architectural importance ; 
 and, however open to criticism many of these designs may 
 be, when considered separately, it cannot be denied that he 
 has produced a vaiaed succession of architectural scenery, 
 the effect of which is picturesque and imposing, certainly 
 .superior to that of any other portion of the metropolis, and 
 far preferable to the naked brick walls then universally 
 forming the sides of our streets. The perishable nature of 
 the brick and composition of which the houses in this .street 
 are built gave rise to the following epigi-am : — 
 
 " Augustus at Rome was for iDuilding renowii'd, 
 And of marble lie left what of brick lie bad found ; 
 But is not our Nash, too, a veiy great master ? — 
 He finds us all brick and he leaves us all plaster." 
 
 Quarterly Rtvitv: for June, 1826.
 
 REGENT STREET AND WATERLOO PLACE. 267 
 
 All Souls', Langham-place, 
 Nash, architect. 
 
 Polytechnic Institution. 
 
 National Institute of Fine Arts. 
 
 Oxford-st. Oxford-st. 
 
 Hanover Chapel. CockercU, + 
 architect. 
 Ven-ey, confectioner and — 
 restaurant; aood. 
 
 N Cosmorama. — 
 
 W- — E 
 
 S Conduit-street.— 
 
 New Burlington-street. 
 
 Newman's stables, horses on the 
 first, second, and third floors. 
 
 Vigo-street, leading to Albany — 
 and Bond-streets. 
 
 Argyll-street. Slarlbro'-street. 
 
 — Houbigant, Frencli glover and 
 perfumer. 
 
 Archbishop Tenison's Chapel. 
 
 ' — Scotch Stores, in Beak-street. 
 — Forrer, artist in hair. 
 
 Man-lebone-street, near cut to 
 Haymarket. 
 
 \-^ 
 
 Swan and Edgar. 
 
 \ >^ \— Davis, famous for cigars, ' 
 
 Piccadilly, Piccadilly. 
 
 Jermyn-street. 
 
 Carlton Club Chambers. 
 
 Kegent-street Chapel. Repton, arch. 
 
 Howell and James's, mercers. 
 Charles-street. 
 
 Jermyn-street. 
 
 — Parthenon Club. 
 
 — Gallery of Illustration, 
 
 formerly house of Nash 
 the architect. 
 Junior Unit. Ser. Club. 
 
 — Charles- street. 
 
 Pall-:Mall. Pail-Mall.
 
 288 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOPvOUGHFARES. 
 
 HOLBORN, OR OLDBOURXE. A main thoroughfare, 
 running east and west, bet-.veen Drury-lane and Farringdon- 
 street. From Drury-lane to Brook-street is called '•' High 
 Holborn ; " from Brook-street to Fetter-lane, '' Holborn ; " 
 and from Fetter-lane to Farringdon-street, " Holborn Hill.'' 
 At Brook-street stood " Holborn Bars," marking the ter- 
 mination of the City Liberties in that direction ; and at 
 Farringdon-street stood a stone bridge over the Fleet, called 
 '■' Oldbourne Bridge." It derives its name from 01dbou.rue, 
 or Hilbourne, a burn or rivulet that broke out near Holborn 
 Bars, and ran down the whole street to Oldboux'ne Bridge, 
 and into the river of the Wells and Fleet Ditch. This was 
 the old road from Newgate and the Tower to the gallows at 
 Tyburn. Up the " heavy hill " v.-ent Vrilliam, Lord Russell, 
 on his v.'ay to the scaffold in Lincoln's-Inn-fields. The same 
 line of road from Aldgate to Tyburn was chosen for the 
 cruel whippings which Titus Gates. Dangerfield, and Johnson 
 endured in the reign of James II. Gerard, who dates his 
 Herbal (fol. 1597) " From my house in Holborne, within the 
 suburbs of London, this first of Decembei', 1597," had a 
 good garden behind his liouse, and mentions in his Herbal 
 many of the rarer plants vrhich grew well in it. 
 
 Observe. — The Blue Boar Inn, No. 270, High Holborn, where 
 a letter from Charles I, Avas intercepted by Ci-omwell and 
 Ireton, disguised as troopers. The letter is said to have 
 determined the king's execution.* 
 
 The corporation of London receives a penny and tv/o- 
 penny toll from the carts and carriages of non-freemen 
 entering the city. These tolls are levied at the six bars, 
 including Holborn -bar.?. The amount raised yearly is 
 between 5000/. and 6000/., and the money is directed to be 
 .spent in the formation of a new street from Holborn -bridge 
 to Clerk envv- ell-green. The richest inlets are Temple-bar 
 and Whitechapel-bar. The descent of Holborn-hill is so 
 dangerous that it is in contemiilation to make a viaduct from 
 Newgate-street to the top of Holborn-hill. 
 
 * See " Handbook for London, Past and Present," p. GO.
 
 XXXII. PRINCIPAL THOPX'UGHFARES. 
 
 £C0 
 
 — Farringdon-street, covering tj:e 
 Fleet Ditch. 
 
 Proposed new street to Clei-ken- _ Slioe-lane. 
 
 well Church. n: ' ' _ 
 
 '~ + St. Andrew s, Holborn. 
 Ely-place. — i d^. Sacheyerel's Church.— Savage, 
 
 /S'ec Ely Chapel. ' ? thepoet, haptisedin thisciiurch. 
 
 Hatton-garden. — j ^ 
 
 IS — Fetter-lane. 
 
 Leather-laue. 
 
 Furniral's-Inn. — ^ 
 Brook-street. — - 
 
 C!ray's-Inn-lane, Fox-court (on — l^ 
 
 right hand). i 
 
 Birth-place of Savage, the Poet." , 
 
 Fulwood's-rents. — ^! 
 
 Ca.stle-street. 
 
 Site of Holbcm Bars, or limit of 
 City Liberty without the walls. 
 
 -Chancei-v-lanc. 
 
 Red-Lion-Street. — 
 
 Kingsgate-street. - 
 
 King-street. - 
 
 Southampton-street. - 
 
 : — Great Turnstile. 
 
 Lincoln' s-Inu- 
 fields. 
 
 ■ Little Turnstile. 
 New Turnstile. 
 
 Little Queen-street. 
 
 Down this street Lord KusEell 
 was led to the scaffold in Lin- 
 coln's Inn Fields. 
 
 Museum-street. Drury-lane. 
 leading to British Museum. W. 
 
 Oxford-street.
 
 270 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 The STRAXD. One of the main arteries of London^ 
 reaching " from Chariug-cross to Essex-street ; " (from Essex- 
 street to Temple Bar was, and is still properly, '•' Temple 
 Bar Withoiit "). It was long very little more than " a way 
 or street " between the Cities of Westminster and London,^ 
 and was not paved before 1532, when an Act was passed 
 for '-paving the streetway between Charing-cross and Strand- 
 cross, at the chai'ge of the ovfners of the land." One of the 
 first ascei-tained inhabitants V\-as Peter of Savoy, nncle of 
 Henry III., to whom that king, in the thirtieth year of his 
 reign (1245), granted "all those houses upon the Thames, 
 which sometime pertained to Briaue de Insula, or Lisle, 
 without the walls of the City of London, in the way or 
 street called the Strcind." The Bishops were the next great 
 dignitaries who had inns or hoiises in this great thorough- 
 fare. "Anciently," says Selden, in his Table Talk, "the 
 noblemen lay within the City for safety and security ; but 
 the bishops' houses were by the water-side, because they 
 were held sacred persons whom nobody would hurt." As 
 many as nine bishops possessed inns or hostels on the 
 south or water side of the present Strand, at the period of 
 the Reformation. ISTo traces, however, of any of their houses 
 are now to be seen. They survive only in name.
 
 XXXII. — PRIXCTPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 271 
 
 STRAND. 
 
 Temple Bar. 
 E. 
 
 Wych-st., leading to Drury-lane. — , 
 
 Holy veil-street. — ' 
 Full of Jew-clothesmen 
 and Book-stalls. 1 
 
 Catherine-street, leading to 
 Brydges-street. 
 
 Lyceum Theatre. ■ 
 
 Burleigh-street. 
 Site of Exeter 'Change, 
 
 Southampton-street. 
 Site of Bedford House. 
 
 Adelphi Theatre. 
 Behind this Theatre is Maiden 
 Lane, in which Andrew Marrell 
 lived and Voltaire lodged. 
 
 King William-street. 
 
 Electric Telegraph Office 
 
 (distinguished by a ball at top), 
 
 electric clock and lamp, irith 
 
 four faces ; the ball drops at 
 
 1 o'clock P.M. every day. 
 
 Golden Cross. • 
 
 Site of Essex House. 
 
 Devereux-court. Here was the 
 Grecian Coflfee-house. 
 
 St. Clement's Danes Church. 
 Site of Ai-undel House. 
 
 St. Mary-le-Sti'and Church. Site 
 
 of Maypole. 
 — Somerset House. 
 
 No. 141. Site of Tonson's shop. 
 Wellington-street, leading to 
 Waterloo Bridge. 
 
 ■ Savoy Chapel, down '■' Savoy 
 
 Steps." Worth seeing. 
 
 • Beaufort Buildings. Site of 
 
 Worcester House. 
 
 • Cecil-street. Site of Salisbury 
 
 House and New Exchange". 
 
 ■ Adam St.:— leading to Adelphi 
 
 Terrace, facing the River, 
 in the centre house of which 
 Garrick died. 
 
 • Coutts & Co., Bankers. 
 
 ■ Site of Durham House. 
 
 Sir Walter Raleigh lived here. Go 
 down Buckingham Street and see 
 Inigo Jones's Water Gate, all 
 that remains of York House, built 
 forVilliers, Duke of Buckingham. 
 
 Site of York House. LordBacon. 
 born here. 
 
 Hungerford Market. 
 
 Northumberland House. 
 
 W. 
 
 Charing Cross.
 
 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL TIIOROUG-HFARES. 
 
 FLEET STREET, one of tlie largest tliorouglifares iu 
 London, and one of the most famous, reaching from Lud- 
 gate Hill (E.), to Temple Bar (W.), and deriving its name 
 from a streamlet called the Fleet, obscure in itself, but widel\' 
 known, from the Ditch, the Prison, and the street to which it 
 has given its name. The two churches are St. Dunstan's-in- 
 the-West, and St. Bride's, the former by Shaw, the latter by 
 Wren. Observe. — ]\Iiddle Temple Gate and Inner Temple 
 Gate ; "Whitefriars, or Alsatia ; Bolt-court, in which hv. 
 Johnson lived and died ; Shire-lane, a dingy and narrow 
 passage, in which the Kit-Kat Club met in the reign of Queen 
 Anne. The Fire of London stopped at the church of St. 
 Duustan's-in-the-West on the north side, and within a few 
 hoixses of Inner Temple Gate on the south side. A few 
 Iiouses west of Fetter-lane, and one over the Inner Temple 
 Gate, still preserve the early character; but beyond these 
 there is nothing to be seen on either side of the street of a 
 period prior to the great Fire of London in 16<3G.
 
 XXXil. PRI>'CIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 FLEET STREET. 
 E, 
 
 273 
 
 Shoe-lane, leading to Ilolbora, — ; 
 
 i 
 
 ■ Bride-lane, leading to Bridewell 
 
 Hospital. 
 
 St. Bride's Chnrcli. 
 15uilt by Wren. 
 
 ■ To Salisbury-square, 
 
 In whick RieharJsou, tUe novelist, 
 lived. 
 
 Bolt-coui't. 
 Dr. Joliuson died here. 
 
 Crane-court — Scottish Hospital; — , 
 Old Meeting Boom of Uoyal 
 Society, when Sir Isaac 
 Newton was President. , 
 
 Fetter-lane, leading to Holboni. — I 
 
 Peele's Coffee House ; — , 
 
 Newspapers filed here. j 
 
 Bouvcrie- Street, leading to 
 Whitefriars and Alsatia. 
 
 Serjeants' Inn. 
 
 Mitre Tavern. Resort of Dr. 
 Johnson and Bosv.-ell. 
 
 Iloare's Banking House. 
 
 Church of St. Dunstan's in + 
 
 the West. 
 Here the Fire of London stopped, j 
 Chancery-lane. — I 
 Seven doors up, on 
 the left, lived 
 Isaak Walton. 
 
 Cock Tavern. 
 Famous for Stout. 
 
 — Inner- Temple - lane, leading 
 I to Temple Church: at AV. 
 
 j corner house (now a confec- 
 
 ! tioner's), Pope and AVarbur- 
 
 I ton first met. 
 
 . — Rainbow- Taveni. Famous for 
 
 I stout. 
 
 ' — Middle-Temple-Iane. 
 
 — Child's Banking House. 
 
 OUlest ISankins House in London. 
 Site also of Devil Tavern. 
 
 AY. 
 
 Temple Bar.
 
 274 XXXII.— PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 CHEAPSIDE, or Cheap. A street between the Poulti-y (E.) 
 and St. Paul's ( W.), a continuation of the line from Charing Cross 
 to the Eoyal Exchange, from Holbonito the Bank of England. 
 This street, one of the most frequented thoroughfares in 
 London, was famous in former times for its " Ridings," its 
 *' Cross," its " Conduit," and its " Standard," and, still latei', 
 for its silk-mercers, linen-drapers, and hosiers. 
 
 The last Lord Major's pageant, devised by the City poet, 
 and publicly performed (Elkanah Settle was this last City 
 poet), was seen by Queen Anne in the first year of her reifm 
 (1702) "from a balcony in Cheapside." The concluding plate 
 of Hogarth's "Industry and Idleness" represents the City 
 procession entering Cheapside — the seats erected on the occa- 
 sion and the canopied balcony, hung -vs-ith tapestry, containing 
 Frederick, Prince of Wales, father of George III., and his 
 Princess, as spectators of the scene. 
 
 Observe. — Church of St. Mary-le-Bow (p. 124); Saddlers' 
 Hall, next Xo. 142 : here Sir Richard Blackmore, the poet, 
 followed the profession of a physician. No. 90, corner of 
 Ironmonger-lane, was the shop of Alderman Boydell (d. 1804). 
 Before he removed here, he lived "at the Unicom, the corner 
 of Queen-street, in Cheapside, London." Before the present 
 Mansion-house was built in 1737, Xo. 73 (formerly Mr. Tegg, 
 the bookseller's) was used occasionally as the Lord Mayor's 
 Mansion-house.
 
 XXXII. — FRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARE?. 
 
 275 
 
 CHEAPSIDE AND POULTRY. 
 
 E. Mansion House. 
 
 St. Mildred in the Poultry. — 
 
 r 
 
 Site of Poultiy Compter. — , 
 Grocers' Hall 
 
 Old Je^ri-v. — — Bucklersbury, leading to tlic 
 I Jjcautiful church of St. 
 I t^tephen's, Walbrook, one of 
 
 Mercers' Hall, p. 230, behind — ^Vren's gi-eat&st works, 
 
 which ThomasaBecket, Arch- { i 
 bishop of Canterburr, -nas | | 
 bom. " j 
 
 King-street, leading to the — ^j 
 Guild-Hail, p. 228. 
 
 Laurence-lane. 
 
 Milk-street. Sir Thomas More 
 bom in. 
 
 — Queen-street, leading to South- 
 wark Bridge, p. 46. 
 
 — St. Maiy-le-Bow Church. The 
 t spire is one of Wren's great 
 masterpieces. 
 
 Bread-street. 
 
 Milton born in. Here stocd tlie 
 Mermaid Taveni, frequented by 
 Sliakspeare, Raleigh, Ben Jonson. 
 
 TN'ood-street. 
 
 Gutter-lane. — '' 
 
 General Post OflSce. 
 
 — Friday-street. 
 
 Old Change. 
 TV. St. Paul's Church-yard. 
 
 t2
 
 276 xxxii. — rPviNciPAL thoroughfares. 
 
 COENHILL. A crowded street or tliorouglifare between 
 the Poultry (W.) and Leadenhall-Street (E.), and so 
 called, of a corn market " time out of mind there holden," 
 and forrnei'lj distinguished for its prison for night-walkers, 
 called "The Tun" (built somewhat in fashion of a tun 
 standing on the one end)— for its Conduit of sweet water 
 " castellated in the middest of the street," — and for its water- 
 standard, called " The Standard," with its four spouts run- 
 ning at eveiy tide four different ways. '' The Tun" was built 
 in 1283 by Henry Walleis, who built the Stocks Market (the 
 site is still marked by a pump and suitable inscription) ; the 
 Conduit (adjoining it) in 1401, and the Standard in 1582, for 
 water from the Thames, brought by an artificial forcer 
 invented by Peter Morris, a Dutchman, the first person who 
 conveyed Thames water into houses by pipes of lead. The 
 Standard stood near the junction of Comhill with Leaden- 
 hall-street, and distances were formerly measured from it, 
 as many of our suburban milestones still remain to prove. 
 The earliest occuj^ants of the street were drapers. 
 
 The two cliurches are St. Peter's, Cornhill, and St, 
 Michael's, Cornhill. Gray, the poet, was born Dec. 26th, 
 1716, in a house on the site of JS'o. 41. The original house 
 was destroyed by fire, March 25tli, 1748, and immediately 
 rebuilt by Gray.
 
 iJiXXII. rRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 277 
 
 CORNHILL. 
 
 Bisliopsgate-st., leading to Gracedmrcli-st.. loading to 
 
 Shoreditcli. E. London Bridge. 
 
 St. Peter's, Cornliill. 
 
 Fincli-lane. 
 Joe's Cliop-lijouse, good. 
 Ned's Chop-house, excellent. 
 
 Site of Freeman's-court, - 
 in which De Foe lived. 
 
 Royal Exchange, p. 63. 
 
 ; — St. ^Michael's, Cornhill. 
 
 — St. Michael's-alley. 
 
 j — No. 41, hirth-place of Gray 
 ! the poet. 
 
 ' — Birchin-lane. 
 
 €hange-alle} 
 
 Pope's Head-alley. 
 
 T. , ,. ^ , ^ — Lombard-street. 
 
 Bank of England, p. 61. — St. Mary ^yoolnothCh., p. 127. 
 
 Princes-stroGt. W. Mansion Ilonse, p. 226.
 
 278 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 DRUPtY LANE was so called, from the town house of 
 the ancient family of the Drurj^s. Before the Di'urys built 
 here, the old name for this lane or road was " Via de 
 Aldwych ; " hence the name of Wych-street, at the bottom 
 of Drury-lane. A portion of it, in James I.'s time, was 
 occasionally called Prince's-street ; — " Diiiry-lane, now called 
 the Prince's-street," but the old name triumphed, and 
 Prince's-street was confined to a new row of tenements, 
 branching to the east, and still distinguished by that name. 
 Observe. — Craven-yard (so called from Craven House) ; Clare- 
 House-court (so called from the noble family of Holies, 
 Earls of Clare) ; Pit-place (so called from the Cockpit 
 Theatre) ; Chai-les-street, originally Lewknor's-lane, and 
 long notorious; Coal -yard, the birthplace of Nell Gwynn. 
 Eminent Inhabitants. — Xell Gwynn, 
 
 " 1 May, 1667. To Westminster; in the way meeting many milk- 
 maids with their garlands upon their pails, dancing with a fiddler hefore 
 them ; and saw pretty ^'elly standing at her lodgings' door in Drury- 
 lane in her smock-sleeves and bodice, looking upon one ; she seemed a 
 mighty pretty creature." — Pepys. 
 
 Druiy-lane lost its aristocratic character early in the reign of 
 William III. Steele, in the Tatler (Xo. 46), describes it as 
 a long course of building divided into particular districts or 
 " ladyships," after the manner of " lordships " in other parts, 
 " over which matrons of kno%s'n abilities preside." Gay calls 
 up all our caution and virtue in this place — 
 
 " O may thy virtue guard thee through the roads 
 Of Drury's mazy courts and dark abodes! 
 The harlots' guileful paths, who nightly stand 
 "Where Catherine-street descends into the Strand." — Trivia. 
 
 In Druiy-lane Lord Mohun made his unsuccessful attempt 
 to carry off Mrs. Bracegirdle, the actress.
 
 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 279 
 
 DRURY LANE. 
 
 Broad-street, St. Giles's. 
 
 Si 
 
 Long Acre, leading to 
 Leicester-square. 
 
 Little Russell-street, leading 
 
 . to Covent-garden, Druiy-lane 
 
 .Theatre, «S:c. 
 
 Eussell-conrt, footway fi-om 
 City to Covent-garden. 
 
 Site of Nell Gwynn's lodging, ■ 
 where Pepys saw her watching 
 the milkmaids on May day. 
 
 Strand. 
 
 Holboru. 
 
 — Coal-yard, birth-place of 
 I Nell Gwynn. 
 
 Charles-street alias Lewknor's- 
 
 lane, long a notoriously 
 
 had part of London. 
 
 Great Queen' s-street, leading 
 to Lincoln's-inn-fields. 
 
 Pit-place, properly Cockpit- 
 place, site of Cockpit Theatre 
 (the first Drury-laue Theatre). 
 
 Prince' s-street, leading to 
 Lincoln' s-Inn-fields. 
 
 Scene of seizure of Mrs. Brace- 
 girdle hy Lord Mohun. 
 
 Craven-buildings, site of Craven 
 House, in which the Queen of 
 Bohemia died (d. 1662). 
 
 St. Mary-le-Strand Church.
 
 280 XXXI T. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 CHANCERY LANE, a long lane running from Fleet- 
 fitreet" into Holborn, chiefly occupied by barristers and soli- 
 citors of recent standing. The great Lord Strafford was 
 born (1593) in this lane, "at the house of his mother's 
 father, Mr. Robert Atkinson, a bencher of Lincoln's Inn ; " 
 the register of St. Dunstan's, Fleet-street, records his bap- 
 tism. Eminent Inhahitanfs. — Izaak Walton (1627-44), in 
 what was then the seventh house on the left hand as you 
 walk from Fleet-street into Holborn. Jacob Tonson's fii'st 
 shop was at or near the Fleet-street end of Chancery-lane, 
 and distinguished by the sign of the Judge's Head. About 
 1697 he removed to Gray's Inn Gate, where he remained till 
 about 1712, and then removed to a house in the Strand over- 
 against Catherine-street. Here he adopted Shakspeare's 
 Head for his sign. Observe.— Old Lincoln's Inn Gatewav, of 
 the age of Henry VIII. (dated 1518). At the back of the 
 Rolls Chapel is " Bowling-Inn-alley ; " Mary Ann Clarke (the 
 wife of a bricklayer, and subsequently the mistress of the 
 Duke of York) was the daughter of a man named Thompson, 
 a jo\n-neyman labourer in this narrow court.
 
 XXXTI. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 2S1 
 
 CHANCERY LANE. 
 
 Holborn. Holbom. 
 
 Southampton-ljuildiugs. 
 
 -Ciirsi tor-street. 
 
 OM <'rate\7ay to Lincolu's-Imi.- 
 
 Carey-street. - 
 
 — Rolls House and Chapel, p. 60. 
 
 — New Record office, now building. 
 Law lustitution aud Club.—' —Serjeants' Inn. 
 
 Izaak "Walton lived. 
 
 Temple Bar. : Fleet-street. Fleet-street.
 
 282 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 OXFORD STREET. A line of thoroughfare, one mile and 
 a half long, between ^St. Giles's Pound and old Tijhurn Turn- 
 pike, and so called from its being the highway from London 
 to Oxford. In 1708 it was known as Tyburn-road. It is, 
 however, somewhat uncertain when it was first formed into 
 a continuous line of street, and in what year it was first 
 called Oxford-street. Xew Oxford-street, opened for car- 
 riages March 6th, 1847, occupies the site of the ''Rookery" 
 of St. Giles, through which it was driven at a cost of 
 290,227/. 4s. lOd, of which 113,963?. was paid to the Duke of 
 Bedford alone for freehold purchases. All that remained, in 
 the autumn of 1849, of this infamous Rookery (so called as 
 a place of resort for sharpers and quarrelsome people) was 
 included and condensed in ninety -five wretched houses in 
 Church-lane and Carrier-street, wherein, incredible as the 
 fact may appear, no less than 2850 persons were crammed in 
 1 to 1-j^ acre of gi-ound. In these noisome abodes nightly 
 shelter, at 3c?. per head, might be obtained. 
 
 The NEY\' ROAD is a crowded thoroughfare or continua- 
 tion of the City-road, leading to the Regent's Park, St. 
 Johns-wood, and the Edgeware-road. It was planned in 
 1754, and opened about 1758. Observe. — St. James's Chapel, 
 Pentonville (on the north side) ; here R. P. Bonington, the 
 painter, is buried. — St. Pancras New Church. — Holy Trinity 
 Church, Marylebone. — St. Marylebone Xew Church. 
 
 CITY ROAD. A crowded thoroughfare — a continuation 
 of the New-road, running from the Angel at Islington to 
 Finsbury-sqtiare ; opened 1761 : Mr. Dingley, the projector, 
 who gave it the name of the City -road, modestly declining 
 to have it called after his own name. Observe. — John 
 Wesley's chapel and grave, immediately opposite Bunhill- 
 fields Burial-ground. 
 
 "Great multitudes assembled to see the ceremony of laying the founda- 
 tion, so that Wesley could not, without much difficulty, get through the 
 press to lay the first stone, on which his name and the date were inserted 
 on a i)late of brass. ' This was laid by John ^yesley, on April 1, 1777.' 
 Probably, says he, this will be seen no more by any human eye, but wiU 
 remain there till the earth, and the works thereof, are burnt up" — 
 Southeys Lift- of Wesley, ii. 3S5.
 
 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 283 
 
 BOW STREET, COVENT GARDEN, 
 
 So called from running in the shape of a bent how. 
 I I 
 
 Long Acre. 
 
 Long Acre. 
 
 W- 
 
 — E 
 
 Royal Italian Opera or Covent — 
 Garden Theati-e, p. 178. 
 On the site of this theatre i 
 lived Dr. Eadclifife, Wycherley, j 
 and many other wits, from 1645 I 
 to 1735. i 
 
 Bow-street Police Office. Here — , 
 Fielding wrote Ms Tom Jones. 
 
 Site of Will's Coffee-honse. 
 
 Great Russell-street. 
 
 ; — Upper house, corner of King's- 
 Arms-court, lived Grinliug 
 Gibbons. 
 
 Great Russell-street,
 
 284 
 
 XXX II. PRIXCIP-^L THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN SINNFIELDS, 
 
 So called in compliment to Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles I. 
 Lincoln's-Inn-fields. 
 
 Little Queen-stveet, leading to - 
 Holborn. 
 
 Down this street LoiU Rusgell was 
 l"d to the scaffold in Lincoln's- 
 Inn-fields. 
 
 "he whole of the north side was 
 built a century later than the 
 south. 
 
 House of Lord Chancellor Somers 
 and the Minister Duke of New- 
 castle, temp. George II. 
 
 The whole of the south side was 
 ' originally built bv Inigo Jones, 
 : and from 1630 to l"730 was one of 
 I the most fashionable localities 
 ' in London — the houses com- 
 ' manding a fine view of Holboni- 
 fields. Great Marlborough-st., 
 a century later, was similarly 
 situated with respect to Oxford- 
 ; street. In one of these houses 
 Lord Herbert of Cherbury died. 
 In another Sir Godfrey Knelh^r 
 i lived for the last twenty years 
 ' of his life. The large red-brick 
 house, with an arch-way under 
 I it (now Nos. 55 and 56) was the 
 house of Hudson, the portrait- 
 painter, and master of Sir Josh"a 
 Kevnold.s. 
 
 Drur}--lane, 
 
 Dnirj--lano.
 
 XXXIl. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARE.S. 
 
 28-5 
 
 CHARING CROSS TO WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 
 
 N. ^<J> 
 ' ^' o d — Northumberland House. 
 
 Dnimmond's Bank. 
 
 Admiralty, p. 56. 
 
 o S 5J 
 
 Craig's-court. 
 Cox and Greenwood's. 
 
 — Scotland Yard. 
 
 Metropolitan Police-station. 
 
 Paymaster-Gen.'soffice,p.'54. — 
 
 Horse Guards, p. 55. I g"^ 
 
 Office of the Com .-in-Chief I %^ 
 
 (Viscount Hardinge). I | s J 
 
 I °^ 
 
 I 23 
 
 Treasury, p. 49. 
 
 Office of the Prime Minister. 
 
 Site of Cockpit, in which 
 Oliver Cromwell lived. 
 Chancel, of the t [ 
 Exchequer. I | 
 Colonial Office. 
 Foreign Office. 
 
 Whitehall Banqueting-house, 
 ! built by Inigo Jones, p. 5. 
 
 Privy Gardens 
 Sir E. Peel's " 
 
 Downing-st. 
 
 IJlchmond-terr.— Site of Duchess 
 of Portsmouth's lodginc 
 
 In this street died 
 lack of bread, 
 Spenser, author of the 
 " Faerie Queene 
 
 (ri-eat George-street, 
 to Westminster Bridge.
 
 286 
 
 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 HAYMARKET, 
 
 So called from a Market of Hay formerly kept there. 
 
 Piccadilly. Coventiy-street. 
 
 The W. side is chiefly occupied 
 by Restaurants, Taverns, Pub- 
 lic-houses, & Shell-fish shops. 
 The Blue Posts has been a 
 tavemfornearly two centuries. 
 Quin's is the best oyster-shop 
 in tlie Haymarket. 
 
 Charles-street, 
 
 Her Majesty's Theatre, or old 
 Italian Opera House. 
 
 Coventry-court. Site of Picca- 
 dilly Gaming House and of 
 Coventry House, residence of 
 Secretary Coventry, sec. to 
 Charles II. 
 
 Panton-street. In a gaiTet in 
 one of these houses, Addison 
 wrote his " Campaign." 
 
 James-street. 
 
 Hemmings' Supper-r'oom. 
 Cafe de 1' Europe. 
 
 — Haymark€t Theatre, p. 179. 
 
 Suffolk-street 
 
 Pall-Mali. Pall-Mall. 
 S.
 
 XXXII. — PRIKCTPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 287 
 
 GROSVENOR PLACE, 
 
 So called from the Grosvenor family, the ground landlords, 
 and built 1767—1777. 
 
 St. George's Hospital, p.211.— 
 "Wilkins architect. 
 
 Apsley House 
 Piccadilly, 
 
 Halkin-street, leading to — ' 
 
 Belgrave-square. j 
 
 Ko. 12, comer house, Earl of | 
 
 Carlisle's. ! 
 
 Chapel-street. 
 
 Grosvenor-place houses. 
 
 No. 2, Sir Anthony Rothschild. — 
 No. 3, Earl Stanhope. — 
 
 No. 46, Sir James Graham. — 
 
 Footway to Constitution-hill. 
 
 - Garden wall of Buckingham 
 Palace, p. 1. 
 The houses in Grosvenor-plaee 
 overlook Buckingham Palace 
 gardens, and were built during 
 the Grenville administration; 
 Grenville, to vex King George 
 III., refusing to purchase the 
 site. 
 
 Queen's Summer House, on 
 Mount concealing the Mews 
 from the Palace. 
 
 Lower Grosvenor-place.
 
 288 
 
 XXXII. PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES, 
 
 PARK LANE. 
 
 Site of Tybnrii Gallows, and 6 
 burial-pl. of Oliver Cromwell. -^ 
 
 I I 
 Marble Arch, 
 from Buckinprham Palace. 
 
 Grosvenor Gate. 
 
 HYDE PARK. 
 
 New house building for Mr. Hoi-; 
 ford. Mr. H.'s pictures very fine 
 
 Stanhope Gate. — , 
 
 Oxford-street. 
 
 Camelford House. "Where the 
 Princess Charlotte and Prince 
 Leopold lived. 
 
 Green-street: at No. 56, died. 
 Rev. Sydney Smith. 
 
 Upper Grosvenov-street. 
 
 , — Grosvenor House. 
 
 — Mount-street. 
 
 South-street. 
 
 I I 
 
 Stanhope-street. Chesterfield 
 House, p. 18, facing the Park, 
 
 Piccadilly. 
 
 To City.
 
 XXXII. PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 NEWGATE STREET. 
 General Post Office. E, 
 
 289 
 
 St. Martin s-le-Grand. 
 
 Bath-street (Old Bagnio), in -h 
 time of Charles II. i 
 
 Panyer-alley. (Curious sculp- 
 tui'e in.) 
 
 Bull-Head-court. — l_Q:ieen's-I£ead-passage. (Dollj's 
 Bas-relief of William Evans and ! ChoB-house in ) 
 Sir Jeffrey Hudson. | ^ "' 
 
 King-Edward-street, formerly — ; 
 Butcher-hall-lane. 
 
 Passage leading to Chrisfs — , 
 Hospital. 
 
 Christ's Hospital, New Hall, 
 p. 199. 
 
 Giltspur-street 
 Compter. 
 
 Ivy-lane. (Site of Dr. Johnson's 
 Ivy-lane Club.) 
 
 Newgate Market. (The great 
 Carcass-market of London.) 
 
 In Bell-inn, died, 16&4, 
 Archbishop Leigh ton. 
 
 — Warwick-lane. (On right, O d 
 CoUegeof Physicians, built by 
 Wren. Observe. — Effigy of 
 Guy on W. wall of lane.) 
 
 Newgate. 
 
 Pye-corner. 
 Here Fire of Lon- 
 don stopped. 
 
 Giltspur-street. Old Bailey. 
 
 a 
 
 St. X 
 Sepulchre's 
 Church.
 
 290 
 
 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 ALDERSGATE STREET. 
 N. 
 
 Wilderness-roM-. Old-street-road. 
 
 Charter House, p. 197. 
 
 Smithfield. 
 
 Long-lane. — 
 
 Albion Tavern, - 
 famous for good dinners. 
 London House, - 
 formerly residence of Bishops of 
 London. 
 "Westmoreland-buildings, - 
 marking site of town-house of 
 the Nevilles, Earls of "West- 
 moreland. 
 
 Little Britain. - 
 St. Botolph, Aldersgate.- 
 BuU and Mouth street. - 
 
 — Site of Pistol's " Manor of Pict- 
 I hatch." 
 
 ' — Barbican. 
 
 — Lauderdale-buildings, marking 
 
 site of Lauderdale House, 
 I town-house of Duke of Lauder- 
 j dale, temp. Chas. II. 
 
 — Shaftesbury House, built by 
 
 Inigo Joiies for the Earl of 
 Thanet. Here lived Lord 
 Chancellor Shaftesbury, temp. 
 Chas. IL 
 
 Here stood Aldersgate— one of 
 the gates in the old city walls. 
 
 ■^ I General Post-office, p. 52. 
 
 •si 
 
 Newgate-Street. 
 
 Cheapside. 
 
 St. Paul"s. X p. 111.
 
 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 291 
 
 FISH-STREET HILL. GRACECHURCHSTREET. AND 
 BISHOPSGATE-STREET. 
 
 St. Botolpli, Bishopsgate. Hoimdsditcli. 
 
 Bull lun, used as a stage (Ijefoi'e - 
 theatres were erected) by Tarl- 
 ton and Burbage: here Hob- 
 son, the carrier, put up. 
 
 South Sea House. — 
 
 Threadneedle-st. — ; 
 St. Martin 
 London Tavern, celebrated for 
 good dinners. 
 
 Here stood Bishopsgate, one of 
 the gates in London-wall. 
 
 Z '— St. Helen's Bishopsgate, p. 120. 
 
 - Crosby Hall. Good peipendi- 
 cular building, temp. Hen. YIII. 
 
 - "SYesleyan Centenarv Hall. 
 
 I 2 
 
 N Comlull. — 
 
 I Omnibuses for Sur — 
 
 ^"^^ — j — E rey and Kent start 
 
 I from both sides of 
 
 g street. 
 
 At the Cross Keys, in the reign — 
 of Queen Elizabeth. Bankes 
 exhibited his horse, Morocco. ^ 
 
 Lombard-st. — 
 
 ■\Vhite-Hart-court. Fox, founder — 
 of the Quakers, died in. 
 
 Nag"s-Head-court. M. Gi-een, — 
 the poet, died in. 
 
 King ■William-street. — 
 
 Statue of William IV. Site of— 
 Boar's Head Tavern in East- 
 cheap. 
 
 Arthur-street. Here stood a - 
 stone house in which Edward 
 the Black Prince was lodged. - 
 
 Leadeuhall-street. 
 
 •g — Fenchm"ch-sti"eet. 
 
 § — StBennet, Gracechurch. 
 
 ll 
 
 Little Eastchcap. 
 
 Monument — 202 feet from which 
 the Fire of Loudon began. 
 
 i 
 
 1— St. Magnus, by Sir C. Wren. 
 
 The Thames. 
 Site of old London Bridge. 
 
 U 2
 
 292 
 
 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 UPPER AND LOWER THAMES STREET. 
 
 The Tower. 
 
 St. Dunstan's-bill. 
 St. Dunstan's, by AVren. 
 
 St. Mary-at-Hill. 
 Coal Exchange. 
 
 Pudding-lane. Fire of London 
 began. 
 
 Fisli-street-hill. 
 
 1^ 
 
 King "William-street. — 
 
 Suffolk-lane. ■ 
 Merchant Tailors' School. 
 
 Do-vvgate. 
 
 College-hill. — = 
 
 St. Michael's, Cullege-hill. by j § 
 
 Wren. j E; 
 
 St. James's Garlic-hithe, by +\ u 
 
 AVren. g, 
 
 St. Michael's, Queeuhithe,by 
 Wren. 
 
 Bread-street-hill, leading to 
 Cheapside. 
 
 Old Fish-street-hill. ■ 
 X St. Mary Somerset. 
 St. Bennet's, Paxil's --nharf, • 
 burial-place of Inigo Jones, 
 leading to Heralds' College, 
 p. 188, and Doctors' Commons, 
 p. 60. 
 
 Custom-house, p. 51. 
 
 — Billingsgate Market, p. 74. 
 
 — Steamboats down river for 
 
 Greenwich, Woolwich, Black- 
 wall, &c. 
 
 — Site of Old London Bridge. 
 
 — St. Magnus, by Wren. 
 
 — London Bridge. 
 
 — Fishmongers' Hall. 
 
 Old Shades, famous for its wines. 
 
 Steamboats up river to Black- 
 friars, Chelsea, &c. 
 
 All Hallows the More; hand- 
 some screen, presented by 
 Hans merchants. 
 
 Steel-yard, site of Hall of Hans 
 Merchants, 1250—1550. 
 
 Three Cranes in the Vintry. 
 Southwark Bridge, p. 46. 
 Vintners' Hall. 
 
 Queenhithe, a quay or market, 
 long the rival of Billingsgate. 
 
 Site of Baynard Castle. The 
 castle of Bainardus, the Nor- 
 man associate of William 
 the Conqueror, whose name 
 survives also in Bayswater 
 i. e., Baynard's water. 
 
 Puddle Dock. 
 
 W ' — Blackfriars Bridge 
 New Bridge-street, Blackfriars.
 
 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 293 
 
 HIGH-STREET, SOUTHWARK. 
 
 River Thames. 
 
 River Thames. 
 
 St. Saviour's, Southwark, p. 117 + 
 i 
 
 Site of Bishop of "Winchester's — 
 Palace, near to which stood 
 the Globe Theatre, in which ! 
 Shakspeare acted. i 
 
 t. Margaret's-hill. 
 
 N 
 
 W— !— E 
 
 Union-street.— 
 
 Railway Stations of 5 separate 
 lines, of Dover, &c., see p. 72. 
 
 ! — St. Thomas's Hospital. 
 
 ■ — Guy's Hospital. 
 
 — St. Tliomas's Church. 
 
 Talbot Inn, the Tabard of 
 Chaucer's " Canterbury Tales." 
 
 King-street. 
 Site of Marshalsea Prison. 
 
 The Mint; the Alsatia of — 
 
 Southwark. 4. St. George's Church, Southwark, 
 
 burial-place of Bishop Bonner, 
 Kushworth, and Cocker.
 
 XXXIl. — PRIIS'CIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 THE THAMES. 
 
 From Battersea to Yauxhall Bridge. 
 
 X Battersea Bridge. 
 
 Battei-sea Church. Burial-place — , Site of Sir Thomas More's 
 of Lord Bolingbroke. ' house. 
 
 Battersea Park. 
 
 Red House, famous forpig"eon 
 shooting. 
 
 ' 2 Chelsea Old Church. Burial- 
 j ^ place of Sir T. More and Sir 
 ' Si llaus Sloane. 
 
 Cedar in Chelsea Botanic Gar- 
 dens, planted 1683. 
 
 Chelsea Hospital. 
 
 ; — Bridge to Battersea Park, 
 
 St. Barnabas Church. 
 
 T. Cubitt's Factorv 
 
 Ne^v Church, built at the sole 
 expense of a Prebendaiy of 
 Westminster. 
 
 Vanxhall Bridge, p. 48.
 
 XXXI I. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 295 
 
 THE THAMES. 
 
 From Vaiixhall Bridge to Hungerford Bridge. 
 
 Vauxhall Bridge, p. 48. 
 
 yauxhall Gai'dens, p. xlii. — 
 
 — Penitentiary, p. 150. 
 
 Lambeth Old Church. 
 Burial-place of Tradescant and 
 Ashmole. 
 
 Lambeth Palace, p. S. — 
 Lollards' To^ver, 
 
 - St. John's Church, AVest- 
 minster. 
 
 "Westminster Abbev. 
 
 — Uouses of Parliament. 
 
 Westminster Bridge, p. 47. 
 
 — Board of Control for Affairs of 
 
 India. 
 
 — Eichmond-terrace. 
 
 — Ifontagu House. 
 
 —Privy Gardens, "Whitehall. Here 
 Sir E. Peel died, p. 23. 
 
 "Whitehall Stairs. 
 
 — Scotland Yard. 
 
 — Northumberland House. 
 
 i. 
 Hungerford Bridge, p. •
 
 296 
 
 XXXIl. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 THE THAMES. 
 
 From Hungerford Bridge to Blackfriars Bridge. 
 
 Hungerford Bridge, p. 46. 
 
 X South-Western Railway 
 Station. 
 
 AVaterioo 
 
 Old ' Lambeth Marsh, now built 
 over by Stamford-street. 
 
 Christ Church. 
 Site of Paris Garden. 
 
 Site of York House. 
 
 ■\Vater-gate, built by Inigo 
 Jones, for Yilliers, I), of 
 Buckingham. 
 
 Adelphi-terrace — in centre 
 house Garrick died. 
 
 Savoy, p. 122. 
 
 Duchy of Lancaster Office. 
 
 Bridge, p. 47. 
 
 - Somerset House, p. 57. 
 
 - King's College, p. 195. 
 
 - Tower of St. Mary-le-Strand. 
 
 — Site of Arundel House. 
 
 — Tower of St. Clements' Danes. 
 
 — Essex Pier and site of Essex 
 
 House. 
 
 — Middle Temple Hall. 
 X Temple Church, p. 119. 
 
 — Temple Gardens. 
 
 — Paper Buildings (red). Temple. 
 
 — Whitefriars, or Alsatia. 
 
 — Site of Salisbury House and 
 
 Dorset House, 
 
 Fine spire of St. Bride's, by 
 Wren, p. 125. 
 
 Fleet Ditch or Sewer runs into 
 the Thames. 
 
 Blackfriars Bridge, p. 46.
 
 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 297 
 
 THE THAMES. 
 
 From Blackfriars Bridge to London Bridge. 
 
 Blackfriars Bridge, p. 46. 
 
 Barclay's Brewhouse - 
 
 Site of Globe Theatre. - 
 
 Remains of Winchester Palace. 
 
 Times Newspaper OfSce. 
 
 — Pier. 
 
 — Site of Blackfriars Theatre. 
 
 — Site of Castle Baynard. 
 
 Large Flour Mill. 
 
 St. Paul's, p. 111. 
 
 Church of St. Bennet, Paul's- 
 wharf. Inigo Jones buried 
 here. 
 
 - Paul's-wharf Pier. 
 
 Fine view from river of the 
 spires and towers of churches 
 by "Wren. The tallest and 
 handsomest is Bow Church, p. 
 124. 
 
 - Church of St. Michael's, Queen- 
 
 hithe. The ship at the top of 
 the vane is capable of holding 
 a bushel of grain, the great 
 article of traffic still at 
 Queenhithe. 
 
 - Queenhithe. 
 
 — Vintners' Hall, p. 237. 
 — Southwark Bridge, p. 44. 
 
 Three Cranes in the Vintry. 
 
 St. Saviour's Church, p. 117. 
 
 London Bridge, p. 45. 
 
 Steelyard. (Dock Warehouses.) 
 Steamboat Pier. 
 Shades, famous for its wine. 
 Fishmongers' Hall.
 
 298 
 
 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 
 
 THE THAMES. 
 
 From London Bridge to Blackwall. 
 
 London Bridge, p. 45. 
 
 Itotlierliithe Church. - 
 Commercial Docks, p. 71. - 
 
 Pier. - 
 
 Deptford Dock Yard. - 
 
 r 
 
 Greenwich Hospital, p. 212. I 
 
 i_ 
 
 Greenwich Obsei-vatory on hill. - 
 
 Trafalgar Tayern. - 
 
 Crown and Sceptre. - 
 
 Both famous for fish dinners. 
 
 Red Tower of Charlton Chiu-ch. - 
 
 Site of Old London Bridge. 
 
 — Monument, p. 231. 
 
 _ I — Fine Tower of St. Magnus. 
 
 Steam-boat Pier to Gravesend, 
 Margate, and boats too large 
 for "above bridge." 
 
 Coal Exchange. 
 
 Tower of London, p. 81. 
 
 — Traitors' Gate. 
 
 The large square tower, with 
 turrets, is called the " White 
 Tower." 
 
 St. Katherine's Docks, p. 68. 
 
 London Docks, p. 69. 
 
 — AVapping. 
 
 Thames Tunnel and Pier, p. 48, 
 connecting "\Yapping with 
 Rotherhithe. 
 
 Limehouse Church, with flag 
 staff on top of tower. 
 
 West India Docks. 
 
 Isle of Dogs. Here the River 
 is veiy sei-pentine. 
 
 Blackwall Railway Station, 
 
 Lovegrove's Tavei'n, famous 
 for fish dinners. 
 
 East India Docks.
 
 ■""oA 
 
 TTalker-st. 
 
 16, Sir Roderick BELGRAVE SQUARE. 
 
 Murchison. | 
 23, Lord Panmure. i ^^ • E. 
 
 Built 1S26— 1&33. 
 
 
 ^^;,% 
 
 H. 
 
 4S, y.Combennere, 
 45, D, of Montrose. 
 41, Arch, of York. 
 
 ■ It 
 
 
 Upper Brook-st. 
 
 24,E.ofShaftesbnr.-. 
 
 23. Dowager Dss. of 
 
 Cleveland. 
 
 Upp. Grosvenor-st. 
 
 W 
 
 GROSVENOR 
 SQUARE. 
 
 Built 1720—1730. 
 
 E. 
 
 Both the Marqnis of Rock- 
 ingham and Lord Nortli 
 lived in this square when 
 Prime Ministers. 
 
 7, Earl of Wilton. 
 6, Joseph Neeld. 
 Fine pictures. 
 
 'Jli Ji h 
 
 •< zC — -T.^ " 
 
 <= 5 o • c .• -^ -3 =
 
 300 
 
 XXXII. — PRINCirAL SQUARES. 
 
 38, Earl of Jersej , 
 
 Hill-street. 
 
 42, Ld. Brougbton. 
 
 43, Earl of Hadding- 
 ton. 
 
 44, Fine staircase 
 by Kent. 
 
 45, Earl of Powis. 
 The great Lord Clive 
 died in this house. 
 
 BERKELEY 
 SQUARE. 
 
 Built 1730—1740. 
 
 Lansdowne House. 
 
 21, E. of Balcarrcs. 
 Lady Ann Lindsay 
 died in this house. 
 
 Bruton-street. 
 
 13, Mar.of Hertford. 
 Horace Walpole 
 
 died at No. 11. 
 Gunter, celebrate 
 
 for Ices. 
 
 Hay Hill. 
 
 Upper Berkeley-st. Berkeley-street. 
 
 The north-west corner house was Mrs. Montagu's. Here 
 she lield lier bkie-stocking parties, and gave her chim- 
 ney-sweeps' entertainment to the poor. 
 
 N. r- 
 
 26, Lady Garvagh. 
 Fine picture by 
 Raphael. 
 
 Upper Seyraour-st. 
 
 PORTMAN 
 
 SQUARE. 
 
 W. E. 
 
 Built 1790—1800. 
 
 Seymour-street.
 
 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL SQUARES. 
 
 301 
 
 ■5 s: 
 
 ^ ii ^ 
 
 London Library 
 Statistical Society. 
 
 Lichfield House. 
 
 Late Lord Castle- 
 rea,gh lived in j 
 comer house. -J 
 
 17,D. of Cleveland. 
 
 18.SirW.Wynn. 
 
 19,B.ofWinchstr. 
 
 Army and Navj- 
 
 Club. 
 
 N. 
 
 ST. JAMESS 
 SQUARE. 
 V. Built 1674—1690. 
 
 Statue of William III. 
 
 4, Earl de Grey. 
 Fine Pictures. 
 
 2, E. of Falmouth. 
 
 23, Earl of Derby. 
 22, Bp. of London. 
 
 21, Norfolk House. 
 Geo.III. bom here. 
 
 Koyal Academy of r ' ' 
 
 Music. -i N. 
 
 Tenterden-street. 
 
 Oriental Club, "j HANOVER SQUARE. 
 j Built 1720— 173<J. 
 
 I W. E. 
 
 20, Earl of Lucan. 
 21,M.ofDownshire. 
 
 Brook-street. 
 
 Statue of William Pitt, 
 by Chautrey. 
 
 Prince s-street. 
 
 Ilanover-sq. rooms. 
 Hire of Great 
 Room. 20 gs.— of 
 Little Room, 12g3. 
 — gas and attend- 
 ance included. 
 
 Hanover-street.
 
 302 
 
 :XXII. — rRI>-CIPAL SQUA.RES. 
 
 5-c CO !>> iJ 
 
 W. side occupied 
 by Harcourt House, 
 residence of Duke 
 of Portland. 
 
 The whole N. 
 sidewastohave t: 
 been occupied t 
 by the entrance ^ 
 to the town g 
 house of the f 
 magnificent D. i 
 of Chandos. o 
 
 —J I 1 
 
 N. 
 
 CAVENDISH 
 SQUARE. 
 
 Built 1730—1760. 
 "W. Equestrian Statue of 
 
 Duke of Cumberland, 
 Victor at CuUoden, 1746. 
 Statue of Lord G. Bentinck. 
 
 Holies-street. 5 -^ . 
 
 In No. 24, .^-ii^; 
 
 Lord Byron c p. 
 
 was bom. x^'o 
 
 5 i^'^' 
 
 Site of Leicester House. 
 
 The '• Pouting-place " of two Princes 
 
 of Wales. 
 
 To Piccadilh 
 
 Sir Joshua Key- 
 nolds's house. 
 
 Havmarket. 
 
 N. 
 
 LEICESTER 
 SQUARE. 
 
 AV. Built 1670—1690. E. 
 
 Mr. Wyld's great Globe 
 
 in Centre. 
 
 St. Martin' s-court. 
 
 Sir Isaac Newton's house and 
 
 obserratoi'v. 
 
 Panorama. 
 
 To Covent-garden. 
 
 Royal Panopticon 
 of Science and 
 Art.--Findenand 
 Lewis, architects. 
 
 Site of John Hun- 
 ters house and 
 museum. 
 
 Sabloniere Hotel. 
 In northern half 
 Hogarth lived. 
 
 Green-street. In 
 No. 11 lived 
 Woollett the en- 
 graver.
 
 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL SQUARES. 
 
 303 
 
 SoLo Bazaar. 
 
 SOHO SQUARE. I 
 
 ^y. Built 1670— 1690. E- 
 
 Statueof Charles II. [ 
 
 .2.3 
 1 1 o 
 
 Whole south side 
 origiually occupied 
 
 by 
 Monmouth House. 
 
 Site of 
 Bedford House, 
 
 ^ pulled down 
 H in 1800. 
 
 Ko. 6 was old 
 Mr. Disraeli's. 
 
 BLOOMSBURY 
 SQUARE. 
 
 Built 1690—1710. 
 
 Statueof C.J. Fox, 
 
 by 
 Sir R.Westmacott. 
 
 Site of Lord 
 
 Mansfield's house 
 
 destroyed in riots 
 
 o"f 1760.
 
 304 
 
 XXXII, PRINCIPAL SQUARES. 
 
 BEDFORD 
 SQUARE. 
 
 Built 1800—1806. 
 
 6, Lord Cliancellor 
 Eldon lived here. 
 
 7, Sir Robert Inglis, 
 
 d. 1855. 
 
 
 RUSSELL SQUARE. 
 
 Built 1800—1806. 
 
 W. E. 
 
 Statue of Duke 
 
 of Bedford, 
 
 by 
 
 Sir R. Westmacott. 
 
 71, Lord Chancellor 
 Loughborough 
 lived here. 
 
 G7, Mr. Justice Tal- 
 fourd lived. 
 
 G.5,Sir ThomasLaw- 
 rence died here. 
 
 Mr. Holford's Pic- 
 tures liere.
 
 s^ 
 
 
 305 
 
 I £.9 
 
 King-street. Built by 
 
 Bedford Hotel. 
 
 I igo Jones 
 
 ChurchofSt.PanVs, 
 Covent Garden, 
 built by Inigo 
 Jones. 
 
 Henrietta-street. 
 
 -| ijeaioru iiorci. 
 
 COVENT GARDEN 
 W. MARKET. K. 
 
 liuilt 1630—1642. 
 
 
 Great Russell-st. 
 
 IL 
 
 
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 Sis 
 11 
 
 T" 
 
 Great Queen-st. 
 
 Newcastle House at 
 
 corner. Here lived 
 
 Lord Chancellor 
 
 Somers, and the 
 
 Minister Duke of 
 
 Newcastle. 
 
 Lindsey House, 
 
 (with 2 vases) , built 
 
 by Inigo Jones. 
 
 Duke-street. 
 
 W. 
 
 "Whetstone's 
 Park at back. 
 
 LINCOLN'S-INN 
 FIELDS. 
 
 Lord Wm. Eussell 
 beheaded in centre. 
 
 Built 1619-163G. 
 
 Stone-buildings. 
 
 Lincoln's Inn Hall, 
 P. Hardwick, Arct. 
 
 To Lincoln's Inn, 
 
 Royal College of Surgeons. 
 Here stood Sir William Davenant's Theatre.
 
 306 
 
 PRINCIPAL SQUARES. 
 
 National Gallery, p. 166, and Roj'al Academy of 
 Arts, p. 185. Wilkins, ai'clit. 
 
 Pall-mall East. 
 
 College of 
 Physicians, p. 187, 
 
 Union Club, p. 222.1 
 
 n n 
 
 Statue of 
 
 George IV., 
 
 hy Chant rey. 
 
 TRAFALGAR SQUARE. 
 
 Built 1829—1850. 
 
 The Fountains, of Peterhead 
 Granite. 
 
 Cockspur-street. 
 
 D 
 
 Kelson Column, p. 2.55 
 
 Church of 
 St. Martin's-in-th e 
 
 Fields. 
 Gribbs, archt.,p.l27. 
 
 To the Strand. 
 
 Morley's Hotel. 
 
 Char. Cross branch 
 
 of Gen. Post Office. 
 
 Letters received later 
 
 than at other offices. 
 
 * The Electric Telegraph 
 
 Office (distinguished by a ball 
 
 at top), communifating with 
 
 all tlie great railways and 
 
 cities of Great Britain and 
 
 Ireland, and open night and 
 
 day for messages. 
 
 Statue of Chai-les I. by Le ScBur. 
 Site of Queen Eleanor's Cross. 
 Place of execution of Regicides, 
 
 ! Whitehall. 
 
 *:i* It would be easy to add to these Diagrams of streets and squares, 
 but T feel 1 have given enough, and will now conclude by saying with 
 two poets — Gascoigne and Southey : — 
 
 " But of enough enough, and now no more, 
 As honest old Geoi'ge Gascoigne said of yore."
 
 INDEX. 
 
 B. 
 
 Abney Park Cemetf,p.y, 134 
 
 Addison. Joseph, last moments of,19 
 
 Adelphi Theatre, 179 
 
 Admiralty, the, 55 
 
 Albert, H. R. H. Prince : collection 
 of pictures exhib ted by, S 
 
 Alders;jate-street, Plan of, 290 
 
 Almack's Assembly Rooms, 182 
 
 Ambassadors' residences, 1 
 
 Anglesea. Marquis of; his man- 
 sion, 20 
 
 Anne, Queen, 4; and her hus- 
 band, 8 
 
 Antiquaries, Society of, 58, 189 ; 
 library and museum, 190 
 
 Apostolic Church (Irongat^), 129 
 
 Apothecaries" Hall, 238 
 
 Apsley House, 10 ; pictures, &c., -ib. 
 
 Archaeological and antiquarian at- 
 tractions, xlvi 
 
 Architectural notabilities.xliii 
 
 Architects, British, Institute of, 
 190; admission fees, ib. 
 
 Architects' "Works in London, list 
 of, xlv 
 
 AiTuonrers' Company, 239 
 
 Anny ; regulations relative to en- 
 listments, pay, &c^ 55 
 
 Army and Navy Club, 218 
 
 Artillery Ground, 240 
 
 Art (Galleries of), xliii 
 
 Artists' Studios, 1 
 
 Asiatic Society, 192 
 
 Ashburton, Lord ; mansion of, 20 
 
 Astley's Theatre, ISO 
 
 Astronomical Society, 193 
 
 Athenajum Club, 221 
 
 Audit Office, 57 
 
 Bacon- (Lord), -uhere born, 241 
 
 Bank of England ; its origin, 61 ; 
 its ingenious weighing and 
 printing machines, 62 
 
 Bancroft, Francis; glazed cofiiu 
 of, 121 
 
 Barber Surgeons' Hall, 240 
 
 Barclay and Perkins's bre-n-eiy, 
 77 ; origin of the fii-m, 78 
 
 Barnabas (St.) Church, Pimlico, and 
 Rev. W. J. E. Bennett, 129 
 
 Bartholomew the Great (SL) 
 church of, 117 
 
 Bartholomew's (St.) Hospital, 206 : 
 enormous quantitiesof medica- 
 ments used, 207; its lec- 
 turers, &c., ib. 
 
 Bath House, its fine collection of 
 pictures, 20 
 
 Baths and "Wash-houses, 216 
 
 Battersea Park, 34 
 
 Bavarian Chapel, 130 
 
 B ivswater, origin of name, 292 
 
 Becket (St. Thomas a) where bom, 
 241 
 
 Bedford-square, Plan of, 304 
 
 Belgrave-square, Plan of, 299 
 
 Belgravia, xii 
 
 Berkeley-square, Plan of, 300 
 
 Bethlehem Hospital for Lunatics, 
 208; notorious inmates, 209 
 
 Billingsgate Mai'ket, 74 
 
 Birth-places of eminent persons, 
 241 
 
 Bishopsgate-street. Plan of, 291 
 
 Blackfriars Bridge, 46 
 
 Blind, Schools and A.svluras for 
 the, 217 
 
 X 2
 
 308 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Bloomsbnry-sqnare, Plan of, 303 | 
 
 Botanical Gardens, Regent's-park, 
 33; Kew,36 
 
 Bow-street, Coveut-garden, Plan 
 of, 283 
 
 Bow Church, and Bow bells, 124 
 
 Breweries, 77 
 
 Bride's (St.) Church, Fleet-street, 
 125 ; source of "Wren's idea of 
 its construction, ib. 
 
 Bridewell, City Prison, 147 ; Hol- 
 bein's Picture, 148 
 
 Bridges over the Thames; London, 
 45; Southwark, 46; Black- 
 friars, i&. ; Hungerford, ib.\ 
 Waterloo, ib.; Westminster, 
 ib. ; Vauxhall, 48 
 
 Bridgewater House and its Picture 
 Gallery, 17 
 
 British iMuseum, regulations,mode 
 of admission to the Reading 
 Room, 151 ; origin and pro- 
 gress of the Museum, 152; 
 ground plan, 153; Egyptian an- 
 tiquities, 154 ; Assyrian Room, 
 155 ; Etruscan Room, 155, 156 ; 
 Elgin marbles, 156; Phigalian 
 and Lycian marbles, 158; 
 Townley collection, 159 ; 
 Bronze room, ih.\ Portland 
 Vase and its mishaps, ib. ; 
 modem marbles, 160; Medal 
 room, ib. ; Romano - British 
 antiquities, 161; library of 
 printed books, ib.\ reading- 
 room regulations, 162 ; manu- 
 scripts, ?6; prints, drawings, 
 &c., 163; mineralogy and 
 geology, 164; zoological col- 
 lection, 165 
 
 Brompton Cemetery, 134 
 
 Brooks's Club, 219 
 
 Brunei, Sir I. K., great engineer- 
 ing work by, 48 
 
 Buccleuch, Duke of, his town 
 mansion, 14 
 
 Buckingham Palace, juggle in 
 which it originated, subse- 
 quent alterations, &c., 1; its 
 chief pictures, 2 
 Bunhill Fields Burial Ground, 
 134; its chief tenants, 135; 
 enormous number interred 
 there, 136 
 Burial places of eminent persons, 
 
 242 
 Barials in London, 132 
 Burlington House, 59 ; Hogarth's 
 caricature, 60 
 
 Byron (Lord), where bnrn, 241 
 Byron, Wm., 5th Lord; scene of 
 
 his duel with Mr. Chaworth, 
 
 258 
 
 Cabs, regulations relative to, 
 xxxii 
 
 Camberwell Church, 129 
 
 Camden (William), where born, 
 241 
 
 Canova, characteristic anecdote of, 
 47 
 
 Canterbury, Archbishops of, addi- 
 tions to Lambeth Palace by, 8 
 
 Cariton Club, 219 
 
 Carlton Ride Records, 60 
 
 Carpenters' Hall, 240 
 
 Cavendish-square, Plan of. 302 
 
 Csesar, Sir Julius; his curious 
 monument and epitaph, 121 
 
 Cemeteries and Burial Grounds, 
 132—136 
 
 Chancery, Inns of, 145 
 
 Chancery-lane, 280; Plan, 281 
 
 Chapter House, Westminster, 60, 
 110 
 
 Charing Cross to Westminster 
 Abbey, Plan, 285 
 
 Charing Cross Hospital, 214 
 
 Charitable Institutions and Hospi- 
 tals, 205—217 
 
 Charles I., parting with his child- 
 ren, 4 ; his execution, 6 ; 
 vicissitudes of the Charing 
 Cross statue, 256 
 
 Charles II. born, 4; statue of, 25G 
 
 Charter-House School and Hospi- 
 tal, 197 ; the poor brethren, 
 198 
 
 Chatham (Earl of), where born, 
 241 
 
 Chaucer, where born, 241 
 
 Cheapside, description of, 274 ; 
 Plan, 275 
 
 Chelsea Hospital, 211 
 Chesterfield House, 18; its associ- 
 ations, ib. 
 Christ's Hospital, 199 ; its notabi- 
 lities, ib. ; eminent scholars, 
 200 ; mode of admission, 201. 
 Churches and Places of Worship, 
 Cathedral and Episcopal, 94 — 
 129; Dissenting, 129, 130; Ro- 
 man Catholic, 130 ; Foreign, 
 130; Jews, 132
 
 INDEX. 
 
 309 
 
 City of Loudon Scliool, 203 
 
 City, the, and the City Halls and 
 Companies, xi.xiv. 225—240 
 
 City Prison, HuUov.av, 151 
 
 City Road, 2S2 
 
 Clayton, Mr. ; his aquatic feat, 43 
 
 Clement's Inn, and its associa- 
 tions, 146 
 
 Clerkenwell Sessions House, 139 
 
 Clothworkers' Hall, 23S 
 
 Clubs and Club Houses, 217—225 
 
 Coal Exchange, 72; number of 
 Seamen emploved in the 
 Trade, 72 
 
 Cockney, traditional origin of the 
 epithet, 226 
 
 Cold Bath Fields House of Correc- 
 tion, 150 
 
 College, V. Heralds, 188 
 
 College of Physicians. {See Phy- 
 sicians.) 
 
 College of Surgeons. {See Sur- 
 geons.) 
 
 Colleges and Schools, 193—205 
 
 Colliers, Eegulations of the port 
 of London relative to, 44 
 
 Colonial Office, 50 
 
 Commercial buildings, banks, &c., 
 61 — 70. [See the various 
 heads under which same are 
 placed.) 
 
 Commercial Docks, 71 
 
 Comiianies of I..oudou, and their 
 Halls, 232—240 
 
 Conservative Club, 220 
 
 Constitution Hill. 31 
 
 Com Exchange, 71 
 
 Cornhill, description of, 276 ; Plan, 
 277 
 
 Cornwall, Duchy of, office of 
 the, 57 
 
 County Courts, 139 
 
 Court ( Presentation at) 5 
 
 Daxish Chuech, 131 
 
 Deaf and Dumb, Asvlum for the, 
 
 217 
 Debtors' Prisons, 151 
 Design, Government School of, 
 
 204 
 Devonshire House, its pictures and 
 
 literaiy treasures, 12 
 Dining and Supper places, xsxviii 
 
 — xl 
 Dissenters' Chapels, 129 
 Docks; "West India, East India, 
 
 St.Katherine's, Loudon, Com- 
 
 merciiil, 68 — 71 
 Doctors' Commons, 60 
 Domesday Book, 60 
 Dorchester House, 25 
 Downing-street. (Sec Foreign 
 
 Office, Colonial Office.) 
 Drapers' Hall and Gardens, 233 
 Drawing rooms ( Presentation at) 5. 
 Dreadnought, Seamens Hospital- 
 
 Ship, 216 
 Dnii*y-lane (the street so called) ; 
 
 ancient state of, 278; plan, 
 
 279 
 Drury-lane Theatre, 178 
 Dulnich Gallerj- of Paintings, 
 
 xlix, 170 ; its chief pictures, 
 
 171 
 Dupin, M., on Waterloo Bridcre, 
 
 47 
 
 East India Docks, 63 
 East India Hou.se, 67; museum 
 notabilities, ih. 
 
 Courts of Law and Justice, 136— ' Electric Telegraph, xxvii 
 140 " " " " ■ 
 
 Covent Garden Market, 75 ; plan 
 of, 305 
 
 Covent Garden Opera House, 178 
 
 Cowley, where bora, 241 
 
 Cowper, the poet, suicidal inten- 
 tions of, 51 
 
 Cromwell, Oliver, last moments 
 cf, 135; his inauguration, 
 1.37 
 
 Ciystal Palace, site of first, 27 
 
 Ci-ystal Palace at Sydenham, xlix 
 
 Custom House, 51 
 
 EUesmere, Earl of; his mansion 
 and galleiy, 17 
 
 Eminent persons; London birth- 
 places of, 241; burial-places, 
 1 242—245 ; dwelling-places, 
 
 ; 246—251 
 
 i Engineers, Civil ; Institution of, 
 i 190 
 
 ! Environs, xlviii 
 I Erechtheum Club, 222 
 ] Events, remarkable, 251 — 255 
 I Exchequer, office of the, 50 
 
 Excise Office, 51, 52 
 
 Excursions, xlviii 
 i Exeter Hall, 182
 
 310 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Exhibition of the Koval Academv, 
 185 
 
 Exhibitions in general, xli; 
 of pictures, xlii. {See Mu- 
 seums.) 
 
 Fartiixgdox Market, 76 
 Fishmongers' Hall, 234 
 Fi^h-street-hill, plan of, 291 
 Flaxman Museum, 194, 195 
 Fleet Prison, the late, 151 
 Fleet-street, 272 ; Plan of, 273 
 Foreign Churches and Chapels, 
 
 130—132 
 Foreign Office, 49 
 Foreigners in Great Britain, 1 
 Foundling Hospital, 214; the 
 
 Chapel, 215 
 Fox (C. J.), where born, 241 
 Free Exhibitions. {See Museums.) 
 Free Hospital, 214 
 French Protestant Churches, 131 
 French Komau Catholic Chapel, 
 
 131 
 
 G. 
 
 (rARP.ioK Club, 223; its pictures, 
 ih. 
 
 Geographical Society, 192 
 
 Geological Society, 192 
 
 Geology (Practical), Museum of, 
 176 
 
 Geology and Soil of London, li 
 
 George's (St.), Roman Catholic 
 Cathedral, 130 
 
 George's (St.), Church, Hanover- 
 square, 128 
 
 (ieorge's (St.), Hospital, 211 
 
 George II. and his Queen, 4, 8; 
 junction of their remains, 99 
 
 George III., statue of, 256 
 
 George IV. bom, 4; statue of, 256 
 
 German Lutheran Church and 
 Chapel, 131 
 
 Giles (St.), Church, Camberwell, 
 129 
 
 Globe (Wyld's), xli 
 
 Goldsmiths' Hall, 234 
 
 Government Offices and Establish- 
 ments, 49—60 
 
 Gracechurch-street, Plan of, 291 
 
 Gray, -where born, 241, 276. 
 
 Gray's Inn, and Gray's Inn Gar- 
 dens, 145 
 
 Great Queen-street, Lincoln" s-inu- 
 fields, Plan of, '284 
 
 Green Park, 31 ; objects to be ob- 
 sei-ved, ih. 
 
 Greenwich Hospital and Hall, 
 xlix, 212 ; the Chapel, &c., 213 
 
 Greenwich Park, and the Astro- 
 nomical Obsei'vatoiy, 34 
 
 Grocers' Hall, 232, 233 
 
 Grosvenor House, its pictures 
 &c., 15 
 
 Grosvenor-place, Plan of, 287 
 
 Grosvenor-square, Plan of, 299 
 
 Guards' Club, 218 
 
 Guildhall, 228; its statues, &c., ih. 
 
 Guy's Hospital, 210 
 
 H. 
 
 Haberdashers' Hall, 237 
 Hallowell, Capt., his present to 
 
 Lord Nelson, 115 
 Hampton Court, xlix 
 Hnnover-square, Plan of, 301 
 Harcourt House, 22 
 llaymarket (the street so called). 
 
 Plan of, 286 
 llaymarket Theatre, 179 
 Helen's (St.), Bishopsgate, and its 
 
 interesting monuments, 120, 
 
 121 
 Heralds' College, 188 ; objects of 
 
 interest there, 189 
 Hertford House, and pictures, 22 
 Hervey, John, Lord ; scene of his 
 
 duel with Pulteney, 31 
 Highgate Cemetery, 134 
 High-street, Southwark, Plan of, 
 
 293 
 Highwayman, exploit of a, 17 
 Hill's (Rowland) Chapel, 130 
 Hogartn, where born, 241 
 Holborn and its eminent I'esi- 
 
 sidents, 268 ; Plan of, 269 
 Holdernesse House, 21 
 Holford, R. S., Esq., mansion and 
 
 pictures of, 25 
 Holland House and its successive 
 
 owners, and anecdotes con- 
 nected with it, 1, 19 ; epitaph 
 
 of the late Lord, 20 
 Home Office, 49 
 Hope, H. T., Esq., M.P., mansion, 
 
 23; his picture gallery, 24; 
 
 mode of admission, 25 
 Horse Guards, 54 
 Horsemonger-laue Gaol, 148
 
 Ill 
 
 Horticultural Society, 193 
 
 Hospitals and Charitable Institu- 
 tions, 209—217 
 
 Hotels, XXXV 
 
 Houses and dwelling-places of 
 eminent persons, 246-250 
 
 Houses of C'lirrection, 150 
 
 Houses of Parliament, 36-42; mode 
 of admission to hear debates, 
 41 
 
 Humane Society, Royal, 216 
 
 Hungerford Market, 76 
 
 Hungerford Suspension Bridge, 46 
 
 Hyde Park, 26; plan, 28; its 
 attractions, 27 
 
 ISLAXD ReVEXUE OFFICE, 51 
 
 Inns of Court and Chancerv. 
 141—146 
 
 Institute of Architects, 190 
 
 institution of Civil Engineers, 190 
 
 Institutions and Societies, 183 — 
 193 
 
 Intramural burials, horrors of, 
 132 
 
 Ironmongers' Hall, 237 
 
 Italian Opera Houses : Her Ma- 
 jesty's Theatre, 177 ; Covent 
 Garden Opera, 178 
 
 James's (St.) Chxtrch, Piccadilly, | 
 126 ; its font by Gibbons, ih. < 
 James's (St ) Theatre, 182 | 
 
 Jamess (St.) Palace, 3 : drawing- 
 I'ooms, levees, &c., mode of 
 presentation, &c., 5 
 James's (St.) Park : its history, 
 29 ; plan, 30 ; objects to be 
 observed, 31 
 James's (St.) Square, Plan of, 301 
 James's (St.) Street and its nota- 
 bilities. 264 
 Jekyll, the Wit, anecdote of, 137 
 Jev.s' Synagogue, Great Saint 
 
 Helens, 132 
 Johnson, Dr., at Thrale's Brewcrv. | 
 
 77 
 Judges, salaries of the, 136 | 
 
 Jones (Inigo), where born, 241 j 
 Jonson (Ben.) where born, 241 
 Junior United Service Club, 218 j 
 
 K. 
 
 Katherixe's (St.) Docks, 69 
 Katherine's (St.) Hospital, 33 
 Kensal Green Cemetery and its 
 
 tenants, 1.33 
 Kensington Palace, 7 ; its German 
 
 pictures, 8 
 Kensington Gardens and the Ser- 
 pentine, 36 
 Kew Botanical Gardens, 1, 35 
 King's College and School, 195 ; 
 educational arrangements, <&. 
 King's College Hospital, 214 
 Kneller, (Sir Godfrey,) his dying 
 observation. 111 
 
 L. 
 
 Lamb, Charles, the real works of, 
 67 
 
 Lambeth Palace, its early and 
 present state, its attractions, 
 xxviii. 8, 9 
 
 Lansdowne House, its sculpture 
 and pictures, 16 
 
 Law Courts. {Skc "SVeslminstcr 
 Hall; Inns of Court, &c.) 
 
 Laws relating to Foreigners, 1 
 
 Leadenliall Market, 76 
 
 Learned Societies and Institu- 
 tions, 183-193 
 
 Leicester-square, Plan of, 302 
 
 Letters, postage of^ xxxv. (See 
 Post Office.) 
 
 Levees 5 
 
 Lincoln's Inn, 143; its chapel, 
 hall, and library, 144 
 
 Lincoln's-Inn-fields, Plan of, 305 
 
 Linufean Societv. 193 
 
 Lloyd's Rooms,' 64; Lloyd's Re- 
 gister, ib. 
 
 Lock Hospital, Chapel, and Asy 
 lum, 215 
 
 Lodgings, xxxvii 
 
 London, geographical position of, 
 its population, ix ; geology 
 and soil, 1; .statistics of its 
 supplies of food, sewerage, 
 &c., X ; its boundaries — 
 Westminster, xi ; Tybumia 
 and Belgravia, xii ; Regent's 
 Park, Marylebone and Blooms- 
 bury, xiii ; " Tlie City," 
 xiv'; Spitallields and Bethnal 
 Green, Clerkenwell and Is- 
 lington, the Surrey side, Shad- 
 well and Rotherhithe, xv;
 
 312 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 bearings of tlie streets, xvi; 
 its rail-R-aj's, &c., xvii ; how 
 to see the INIetropolis, and 
 objects of interest on the 
 various routes, xviii; the 
 Tliames, and objects on its 
 banks, xxiii ; general hints 
 to strangers, xxviii ; foreign 
 money, opera, races, public 
 dinners, sports ; trial by 
 jury, XXX ; cab fares and 
 i-egulations, luggage, xxxii ; 
 omnibuses, xxxiii ; hotels 
 and lodgings, xxxvi ; restau- 
 I'ants and dining houses, 
 xxxvii; supper houses, xxxix ; 
 revenue of City, 227 ; eminent 
 persons born in, 241. {See 
 also Post Office, Exhibi- 
 tions, Panoramas, Remarkable 
 Places, &c.) 
 
 London and North-Western Rail- 
 ■svay Station, 72 
 
 London, Bishops of, Residence of 
 the, 9 
 
 London Bridge, 44 ; Port of Lou- 
 don, its extent, ib. 
 
 London Bridge Railway Station, 72 
 
 London Docks, 69; "the Wine 
 Stores, 70 
 
 London Hospital, 214 
 
 London Institution, 192 
 
 LondonLibrars-,tenns of subscrip- 
 tion, 193 
 
 Lord Mayor's Show, 22G 
 
 Lyceum Theatre, 179 
 
 Lyon's Inn, 146 
 
 M. 
 
 Magdalkx Hospital, 215 
 Magnus (St.) Church, London 
 
 Bridge, 123 
 ^Mansion House, the, 226 
 Markets, 73—77 
 Marlborough House and Vernon 
 
 Gallery. 169 
 Martin-in-the-Fields (St.) Church, 
 127 ; eminent persons buried 
 in, 128 
 Martin, (John.) the painter. 44 
 •Martin's (St.) Hall. 182 
 Maryk-bone (St.) Church, 128 
 Mary-le-Bow (St.) Church, Cheap- 
 side, 124 
 Mary-le-Savoy (St.), Strand, 122 
 Marv Woolnoth (St.) Church, 127 
 Maiv's (St.) Hospital. 214 
 
 Mary's (St.) Roman Catholic 
 Chapel, 130 
 
 Mercers' Hall and Chapel, 232 
 
 Merchant Tailors' Hall, 236 
 
 Mercliant Tailors' School, 201 ; 
 charge for education, 202 ; 
 eminent scholars, 203 
 
 Metropolitan Cattle Market, 73 
 
 Millbank Prison, 150 
 
 Milton, where born, 241 ; lived, 
 247; buried, 243 
 
 Mint, the Royal, 58; mode of ad- 
 mission to, &c., 59 
 
 Missionaries' Museum. 177 
 
 Model Prison, 150 
 
 Money, foreign, xxix 
 
 Money Orders. {See Post Office.) 
 
 Montague House, its portraits and 
 miniatures, 14 
 
 Montagu, (Lady Mary "W.) where 
 born, 241 
 
 Monument, the, on Fish-street 
 Hill, 231 ; suicides from its 
 gallery, ih. 
 
 More, (Sir Thomas), where born. 
 241 
 
 Museums and Galleries of Art, to 
 which admission is free, 151 — 
 177. {See British Museum, 
 Dulwich Gallery, Geological 
 Museum, Missionaries' Mu- 
 seum, National Gallery, Soane 
 jMuseum, Surgeons' College, 
 L'nited Sei-\'ice Museum, Ver- 
 non Gallery. Also the various 
 Instimtions and Societies.) 
 
 ^Musical Performances, xlii 
 
 Munro, H. A. J., Esq., pictures of, 
 25 
 
 Napoleon'.s Will, 61 
 
 NationalGallery,Trafalgar-square, 
 166 ; chief pictures, 167, 168 ; 
 English School of Paintings, 
 168 
 
 Nelson, Lord, his only interview 
 with "Wellington, 50 ; Capt. 
 Ilallowell's present to him, 
 115; column to his memory, 
 255 ; dress worn bv him at the 
 Battle of Trafalgar, 213 ; place 
 of burial, 115 
 
 New River, 79 
 
 NcAv Road, 282 
 
 Newgate Market, 76 
 
 Newgate Prison, 147
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ;i3 
 
 Newgate-street, Plau of, 289 
 
 Newspapers, 1 
 
 Norfolk House, and its historical 
 
 records and pictures, 14 
 Northumberland House, 11 ; its 
 
 successive names and owners, 
 
 ib. ; pictures and objects of 
 
 interest, 12 
 Norwood Cemetery, 134 
 Nunhead Cemetery, 134 
 
 Old Bailey Sessioxs House, 
 
 139 
 Omnibus Routes, xxxiii 
 Opera Houses, 177, 178 ; Mr. Dela- 
 
 field's enormous losses, 178 
 Oxford and Cambridge Club, 222 
 Oxford-street, description of, 282 
 
 Painter Staixers' Hall, 240 
 
 Palaces of the Sovereign :— Buck- 
 ingham, 1—3; St. James's, 
 3; Whitehall, 5—7; Kens- 
 ington, 7, 8 
 
 Pall Mall, and its celebrities, 258; 
 Plan, 259 
 
 Pancras-in-the-Fields, St., Old 
 Church and monuments, 121 ; 
 New Church, 129 
 
 Panopticon, xli 
 
 Panoramas and Miscellaneous Ex- 
 hibitions, xli 
 
 Park Lane, Plan of, 288 
 
 Parks, Palace?, and Public Build- 
 ings, Olfice of, 52 
 
 Parks, Gardens, &c., xxii: — Hyde, 
 26-28; St. James's, 29-31; 
 Green, 31; Regents', i6. ; Plan 
 of, 33; Victoria,32; Battersea, 
 33; Greenwich, i6. ; Richmond, 
 34; Kensington, ib.; Kew, 35; 
 Zoological, 33, 182 
 
 Parliament, opening and proroga- 
 tion of, 3 
 
 Parliament. {See Houses of Par- 
 liament.) 
 
 Passports, 1, 50 
 
 Paul's (St.) Cathedral, 111 ; 
 ground Plan, 113; its history, 
 112; spoliation of Wren's de- 
 sign by James II., 114; mo- 
 
 numents, ib. ; clock room, 
 whispering gallery, &c., 116 
 
 Paul's (St.), Covent Garden, 
 church and parish register, 
 123 
 
 Paul's (St.) School, 195; eminent 
 scholars, 196 
 
 Paymaster General's Office, 54 
 
 Peel, Sir Robert, mansion and pic- 
 tures of, 22 ; room in which 
 the late Sir Robert died, 23 
 
 Penitentiary and Pentonville 
 Prison, 150 
 
 Penn, where born, 241 
 
 Peter the Great's Mulberry Tree, 
 72 ; his lawyers, 137 ; lived, 
 250 
 
 Physicians, College of, 187 
 
 Piccadilly and its eminent inha- 
 bitants, &c., 260-262 ; Plan of, 
 263 
 
 Pictures, collections of, public and 
 private, xliii 
 
 Places wliich visitors ought to 
 see, xlvii 
 
 Pleasure Seeker's List, xli 
 
 Poets' Corner, 106 
 
 Pool ri'he), xxiv 
 
 Police Courts, City and IMetropo- 
 litan, 139 
 
 Police Establishment, particulars 
 of the, 140 
 
 Polytechnic Institution, xl. 
 
 Pope, where born, 241 
 
 Portland, Duke of, his town man- 
 sion, 22 
 
 Portman-square, Plan of, 300 
 
 Post Office, 52 ; income and extent 
 of the office, 53 ; money orders, 
 ib. ; general directions, ib. ; 
 postal regulations, xxxv 
 
 Poultry, Plan of the, 275 
 
 Practical Art (Department of), 204 
 
 Prerogative Will Office, 60 and 
 note 
 
 Presentation at Court, 5 
 
 Princess's Theatre, 180 
 
 Prisons, Gaols, «S;c., 147—151 
 
 Privy Council Office, 49 
 
 Property-Tax Office, 51 
 
 Pulteney, scene of his duel with 
 Lord Hervey, 31 
 
 QuEEx's Bexch Prison, 151
 
 314 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Railway Station?, xvii 
 
 Record Offices, 60 
 
 Reform Club, 221 
 
 Regent's Park, origin and history 
 of, 31 ; Plan, 33 ; notabilities, 
 32 
 
 Regent-street, description of, 266 ; 
 Plan, 267 
 
 Remarkable Events, places and 
 sites connected -nith 251 — 
 255 
 
 Restaurants, xxxvii 
 
 Richmond Park, 35 
 
 Roman Catholic Cathedral and 
 Chapels, 130 
 
 Rothschild, Bslvoti Lionel de. Pic- 
 tares and articles of vertu of, 
 24 
 
 Rothschilds' Pillar, Royal Ex- 
 change, 63 
 
 Rouhiliac, the Sculptor, instance 
 of enthusiasm in, 102 
 
 Royal Academy of Arts, 57, 184 
 —186 
 
 Roval Academy of Music, 187 
 
 Royal Exchange, 63 ; Lloyd's 
 ' Rooms and Register, 65; the 
 fir si Exchange, ib. 
 
 Royal Humane Society, 216 
 
 Royal Institution of Great Britain, 
 191 
 
 Roval Personages, statues of, 
 ' 256 
 
 Royal Society, 58, 183; its por- 
 traits, &c., 184 
 
 Royal Society of Literature, 191 
 
 Russell-square, Plan of, 304 
 
 Saddlers' PIall, 240 
 
 Sadler's Wells Theatre, 180 
 
 Salters' Hnll, 237 
 
 Sardinian Chapel, 130 
 
 Saviour's (St.) Chm-ch, 117; ac- 
 tors and poets buried in, 
 118 
 
 Savoy Chapel, 122; Savoy Con- 
 ference, 123 
 
 School of Design, 204 
 
 Schools and Colleger, 193 — 205 
 
 Scottish Churches, 130 
 
 Sculpture to be seen, xlv 
 
 Seamen's Hospital Siiip, 216 
 
 Selwyn, George, anecdote of, 20 
 
 Sewerage of London, 80 
 
 Shakspeare's Will, 61 
 
 Sheepshanks, John, Esq., pictures, 
 &c., 25 
 
 Skinners' Hal>, 235, 236 
 
 Soane Museum, mode of admis- 
 sion, 174; objects of interest 
 ib. 
 
 Societies and Institutions, 183- 
 193 
 
 Soho-sqnare, plan of, 303 
 
 Soho Theatre, 182 
 
 Somerset House and its offices, 
 56 ; the ■svatch legend — num- 
 ber of windows, 58 
 
 Southwark Bridge, 45 
 
 Spanish Chapel, 130 
 
 Spenser, where born, 241 
 
 Stables, Koyal ; how to obtain 
 admission to view them, 2 
 
 Stafford House ; its architecture, 
 pictures, &c., 13; i-ent, cost, 
 &e., 14 
 
 Stamps and Taxes, office of, 58 
 
 Staple Inn, 146 
 
 State Paper Office ; mode of 
 access to papers in the, 
 61 
 
 Stationers' Hall, 239 
 
 Statistical Society, 193 
 
 Statues of Royal and eminent 
 personages, 256 
 
 Steaks Club, 224 
 
 Steamboats on the Thames ; when 
 first seen, 42 
 
 Steevens, George; eccentric habits 
 of, 146 
 
 Stephen's (St.) Church, Walbrook, 
 125 
 
 Stephen's (St.) Church, West- 
 minster, 129 
 
 Stock Exchange, 66; mode of elec- 
 tion, &c., lb. 
 
 Stow (John), where born, 241 
 
 Strafi'ord (Earl ofj, where bora, 
 241 
 
 Strand, the, and its ancient inha- 
 bitants, 270 ; plan, 271 
 
 Strangers (Hints to), xxviii 
 
 Streets and thoroughfares of Lon- 
 don; hints and suggestions, 
 XV — xxii ; plans and descrip- 
 tions of the principal, 257 — 
 303; number of streets, 257: 
 lengths of principal streets, 
 ib. 
 
 Studios for Artists, 1 
 
 Supper Houses, xxxis.
 
 31 i 
 
 Surgeons, College of; mode of 
 
 admission to the museum, 172: 
 
 anatomical collection audi 
 
 ■«-orks of art, 173 
 Surrey Chapel (late Eowland 
 
 Hill's), 130 
 Sun-ey Theatre, 181 
 Sussex, Duke of; library and 
 
 residence. 8 
 Sutherland, Duke of; his mansion, 
 
 13 
 Swedish Church, 131 
 Sydenham (Crystal Palace at), 
 
 xlix 
 
 T. 
 
 Tattersalls' and the Jockey 
 Club, 76 
 
 Telegraph, xxviii 
 
 Temple Bar, 230 
 
 Temple Church (the) and its nota- 
 bilities, 119, 120 
 
 Temple, Inner and Middle ; their 
 Halls and historic associa- 
 tions, 141—143 
 
 Thames, River ; and objects of 
 interest on its banks, xxiii — 
 xxviii, 42 — 44; plan of the 
 river, 294—298 
 
 Thames-street, Upper and Lower, 
 Plan of, 292 
 
 Thames Tunnel, xxv,48 
 
 Theatres, and Places of Amuse- 
 ment, xli, 177—183 
 
 Thomas's (St.) Hospital, 209 
 
 Times newspaper office, xlviii 
 
 Tower of London, 81 ; ground Plan, 
 S3; horse armoury, 84 — 86; 
 Queen Elizabeth's armoury, 
 86 ; jewel-house, 88 ; lion 
 tower, 89 ; eminent persons 
 confined there, 89 — 91 ; per- 
 sons murdered, 91 ; persons 
 bom, ib. ; executions, 92 ; in- 
 terments, 93 
 
 Tower Hamlets Cemetery, 134 
 
 Toxophilite Society, 33 
 
 Trafalgai--square, plan of, 306 
 
 Treasury, the, 49 
 
 Trinity House, Corporation of the, 
 65 
 
 Tunnel under the Thames, xxv ; 
 its construction, and the diffi- \ 
 culties attending it, 48 j 
 
 Tussaud's Wax Works, xlii I 
 
 Tyburnla. xii I 
 
 Uxiox Club, 222 
 
 United Service Club, 218 ; Junior 
 
 ditto, ib. 
 United Service Museum, how to 
 
 obtain admission to see the, 
 
 176 
 University of London, Burlington 
 
 House. 193 
 University Club, 222 
 University College, 193; school 
 
 terms and fees, 194 
 University College Hospital, 214 
 
 VAfXHALL BraDGE, 43 
 Vernon Gallery, 168 
 Victoria Cemetery, 134 
 Victoria Park, 32 
 Victoria Theatre, 181 
 Vintners' Hall, 237 
 
 W. 
 
 Walpole (Horace) where born, 241 
 
 War (Secrttary of State for), 
 Offices of, 50 
 
 Wash-houses and Baths, 216 
 
 Watch-face, Somerset House, 
 legend of the, 58 
 
 Waterloo, model of the Battle of, 
 176 
 
 Water Companies, 78—80 
 
 Waterloo Bridge, 46 
 
 Weavers' Hall, 240 
 
 Wellington, Duke of; his mansion, 
 10 ; his only interview with 
 Nelson, 50 ; statues, 257 ; place 
 of burial, 115 
 
 Weslevan Chapel, City-road, 129, 
 282 
 
 West India Docks, 68 
 
 Westminster (City of), xi 
 
 Westminster Abbey, 95; when 
 founded, lb. ; hours of admis- 
 sion, ib. ; ground Plan, 97 ; 
 chapels and tombs, 90-101 : 
 monuments in the transepts, 
 choir, and nave, 102-106; 
 Poets' Comer, 106-108; clois- 
 ters, 109; eminent persons 
 buried in the Abbey, 110
 
 316 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ^yestminster Bridge, 47 
 
 ■\Yestminster Hall : foundation of, 
 136; its legal and liistorical 
 associations, 137 
 
 Westminster Hospital, extent of 
 relief afforded by, 214 
 
 "Westminster, Marquis of; his 
 mansion, 15 
 
 "Westminster School and its cele- 
 brities, 196 
 
 "White's Club, 218 
 
 Whitecross-street Prison, 151 
 
 Whitefield's Chapel, Tottenham- 
 court-road, 129 
 
 "Whitehall Palace : its origin and 
 destruction, 5; KingCharles's 
 execution, 6; paintings, sculp- 
 ture, &c., 7 
 
 "Whittington Club, 224 
 
 I Will Office, 60 
 "Windows, number of, in Somerset 
 
 House, 58 
 Windsor Castle, xlviii 
 "Woods' Office, 52 
 Woolwich Arsenal, xlix 
 Wyld's Globe, xli 
 
 Y. 
 
 YoEK CoLUiix, 255" 
 
 Z. 
 
 Zoological Gaedexs, Regent's- 
 park, 33, 182. 
 
 BRADBURY AND EVAXS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIAES.
 
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