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 ^tOuJiJ^CLM^
 
 NOETH BORNEO 
 
 EXPLORATIONS AND ADVENTURES ON THE EQUATOR. 
 
 BY THE LATE 
 
 FRANK HATTON, 
 
 Fellov of the Chemical Society and Associate of the Institute of Chemistry , of London ; 
 
 Member of the Chemical Society of Berlin, and of the Straits Settlements Branch of the Asiatic 
 
 Society ; and Scientific Explorer in the Service of the British North Borneo Company. 
 
 JOSEPH HATTON, 
 PREFACE BY SIR WALTER MEDHURST, 
 
 Commissioner of Emigration to the British North Borneo Company, and late Her Majesty's 
 
 Consul at Shanghai. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, .1- RIYINGTON, 
 
 CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET. 
 1885. 
 
 l^All rights reserved.'}
 
 LONDON : 
 PBINTED BT GILBERT AND KIVINGT05, LIMITED, 
 
 ST. John's squabe.
 
 
 PEEFACE. 
 
 A LONG association with the East, an intimate ac- 
 quaintance with the work which has been accomplished 
 in Korth Borneo, and the fact that, during my official 
 residence at Hong Kong, in connection with the British 
 North Borneo Company, it fell to my lot to report 
 home the death of Mr. Frank Hatton, may perhaps be 
 thought to give appropriateness to the few prefatory 
 words which I am glad to have the opportunity of 
 addressing to the readers of the latest addition to the 
 literature of biography and exploration. 
 
 This volume is an unpretentious record of useful 
 and interesting work, and at the same time a tribute 
 from a loving father to a devoted son ; a tender in 
 memoriam to a young life, rich in promise, but suddenly 
 cut off by a sad mishap, ere youth had matured into 
 manhood, and when distinction had already been 
 achieved in the paths of science and research. 
 
 The straightforward, unaffected story which the 
 young man's diaries tell, brings us face to face with 
 life and adventure in British North Borneo, until 
 lately as much a terra incognita as some parts of 
 Central Africa. The island of Borneo was first brought 
 
 A 2 
 
 MoOSOl
 
 iv Preface. 
 
 into notoriety some forty-five years ago by the late Sir 
 James Brooke, whose philanthropy and enterprise were 
 instrumental in rescuing from savagery a considerable 
 strip of country upon the eastern side of the island, now 
 represented by the flourishing State of Sarawak, under 
 the (/?« as /-protection of the British Government. The 
 active trade which grew up as a consequence could 
 scarcely flourish, without inducing adventurous spirits 
 to test the practicability of turning to account other 
 tracts of an island so rich in material resources. Various 
 atter^pts, more or less abortive, by individuals followed 
 from time to time, culminating, not long ago, in the 
 hona fide acquisition, by a syndicate of Britisli capi- 
 talists from the Sultans of Brunei and Sulu, of the 
 territory now known as British North Borneo. It is 
 the northern extremity of the island that has been thus 
 acquired. The new territory covers an area of 28,000 
 square miles, and over GOO miles of sea-coast, and it 
 boasts many navigable rivers and excellent harbours, 
 as well as numerous natural resources, the list of 
 which is being daily swelled by active research. Its 
 position, in a strategical point of view, is first-rate, 
 and it stands upon the high-road between our Aus- 
 tralian possessions and China. The history of this 
 acquisition is now well known. It has been con- 
 firmed and consolidated under a charter from the 
 British Crown. A complete administrative apparatus 
 has been set on foot : whole tribes, once addicted 
 to head-hunting and such like savage practices, have 
 been won over to agricultural and other peaceful 
 pursuits : promising commercial relations have been
 
 Preface. v 
 
 established with the prominent markets of the East, 
 and, in spite of many discouraging difficulties and 
 perplexing misfortunes, the enterprising originators of 
 the project are slowly but steadily winning their way 
 towards commercial and political success. The British 
 North Borneo Company, moreover, have not confined 
 their efforts to the selfish promotion of their own 
 financial interests. With a comprehensive spirit worthy 
 of praise, they have sought to render their acquisition 
 geographically serviceable, by instituting extensive in- 
 land exploration, and general coast surveys, so that 
 tracts of country formerly quite unknown, and seas which 
 hitherto could only be cautiously traversed, are now 
 rendered safe to travellers and mariners of all nations. 
 The map which accompanies this work may be instanced 
 as a remarkable evidence of what has been effected in 
 this direction. 
 
 The settlement of a country so new, and peopled by 
 savage races so hostile to the European, has, of course, 
 not been accomplished without the sacrifice of much 
 valuable life. Accident and climate have claimed their 
 inevitable victims, and the names of Witti, Hatton, 
 CoUinson, Eraser, De Eontaine, and others will live in 
 the early historjLof the colony, as those of men to 
 whose pluck and endurance its opening successes may 
 to a great extent be attributed. 
 
 The life of the explorer in savage lands is subject to 
 many of the responsibilities and risks which attend 
 the soldier's career, but without its glory and display. 
 Military expeditions have their pageantry, their inci- 
 dents of march, and. their camaraderie on the battle-
 
 vi Preface. 
 
 field and in the bivouac. The explorer, on the other 
 hand, is denied the solace of physical diversion or 
 mental companionship. His native followers, with 
 rare exceptions, only weary and disgust him by their 
 baffling, half-hearted ways. No bugle arouses him for 
 his morning march. No band cheers him at his halt, 
 or when the day is done. He has to press on alone, 
 often despairing, his life in his hand, and with the 
 discouraging reflection, that, after all, his efforts may 
 prove without fruit, through mishap to himself or to 
 his manuscripts. But the Englishman is born to the 
 inheritance of possessions yet unexplored. The more 
 tenderly he is nurtured, and the more happy his home, 
 the readier he is to court privation and danger, in 
 order to plant his country's flag in some hitherto un- 
 trodden tract, and add to the scientific, geographical, 
 or commercial prestige of his native land. 
 
 It was this natural and heroic bent that fired the 
 youthful Frank Hatton to aspire to win a place upon 
 the honourable roll of explorers, amongst whom the 
 indomitable Stanley had always been his favourite 
 hero. Few though the relics recovered of his diaries, 
 they show a culture of mind, an intelligence of aim, 
 a singleness of purpose, an originality of thought, a 
 decisiveness of action, and a fitness to lead, which 
 were remarkable in one so young ; whilst his letters 
 exhibit throughout that touching love for home-ties 
 and associations, which is so often found combined 
 with roaming propensities in the adventurous English- 
 man. Another trait in the youthful Hatton' s character 
 was his strong leaning towards scientific research, and
 
 Preface. vii 
 
 this had been developed by careful training under 
 experts of repute, the results of which are noticeable 
 in the work which he accomplished for the Company. 
 An explorer without scientific acquirements is an 
 artificer bereft of his best tools, and on this account 
 alone it is to be regretted that so acute an observer 
 and practical a worker in the hive of manhood should 
 have been thus prematurely cut off. His discoveries 
 and suggestions are nevertheless already bearing fruit. 
 Mr. Pryer, the able Resident at Elopura, points out 
 that Mr. Hatton was on the eve of a successful inves- 
 tigation when the sad accident happened that cost 
 him his life ; and the discovery of gold since made 
 by Mr. Walker on the Segama River establishes the 
 accuracy of Mr. Hatton's prognostications.^ 
 
 Peace to the youthful explorer's ashes ! As the 
 broad banana leaves and the feathery palms of Sanda- . 
 kan wave over his untimely grave, they whisper anew 
 the old truth, that high aims, a firm purpose, and 
 honest work, ennoble the man, even when fate denies 
 him the fruition of his reward. 
 
 Walter H. Medhcrst. 
 
 Formosa, Torquay, 
 
 November, 1885. 
 
 ^ Since the above lines were written a geographical chart of Mr. 
 Walker's operations on the Segama River and its tributaries lias 
 reached London. On comparing his work with Mr. Frank Hatton's 
 latest explorations, two remarkable coincidences are noticeable, namely, 
 that when Mr. Hatton was thwarted, by an impassable swamp, in his 
 efforts to reach the Segama overland, he had all but come upon the 
 gold since discovered in the regions of the Upper Segama ; and when 
 the accident occurred that proved fatal to him he was close to the 
 gold deposits subsequently met with on the Lower Segama. — AV. II. M.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 ^att 5. 
 
 FRANK HATTON'S LIFE AND WORK AT HOME AND 
 IN NORTH BORNEO. 
 
 PERSONAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL. 
 
 Introductory — The epilogue, sunshine — Childhood — School-life 
 — At the College of Marcq, Lille — JNIaster of French — 
 Successes at King's College School in physical sciences — 
 The School of Mines — Admiration for Darwin and Huxley 
 — *' Life is but a geological second " — Duty — A painless 
 death — Favourite authors — A sad story — The prologue, 
 shadow .......... 
 
 II. 
 
 REMINISCENCES AND RELICS. 
 
 The lost diaries — A difficult task — ^lany-sidedness — "Maa pro- 
 poses" — First talks about Borneo — Choice of work — Borneo 
 or Guy's Hospital 1 — " Too young ! He will get over that " 
 — Risks at home and abroad — Omens — Memories — Con- 
 tributions to the press — A scientific controversy — The 
 adventures of a drop of Thames water — At the Chemical 
 Society — A visit to Rothschild's arid the Mint— Packing 
 up 21
 
 Contents. 
 III. 
 
 A BUNDLE of' LETTERS AND THE MASSACRE OF WITTL 
 
 PAGE 
 
 On the way — Sharks and divers — Ceylon and Singapore — Bun- 
 galow life at Labuan — Social amenities — Witti — In Borneo 
 — Expeditions in the interior — Tropical floods — " Impos- 
 sible to go on ; impossible to go back " — Letters from home 
 — An eventful day — Head-hunting — To Kinoram for a little 
 rest — Food and dress — Missionary work — Romantic scenery 
 — The perils of travel — Assassination of Witti and an 
 exploring party — Sketch of Witti's career — Thoughts of 
 home — Last letters . . . . . . . .63 
 
 IV. 
 
 DISASTER AND DEATH. 
 
 Good news — Five days later — Sad letters — " A bright, fearless, 
 brave life " — On the Segama River — Hunting in the jungle 
 — The fatal accident — A devoted following — The silent 
 passenger— Tropical scenery — Bornean highlands and the 
 mountains of Pisgali — Inquest and verdict — A jungle ceme- 
 tery — The pathetic story told by Governor Treacher . . 95 
 
 DIARIES AND REPORTS OF EXPEDITIONS, OFFI- 
 CIAL PAPERS AND OTHER CHRONICLES. 
 
 LIFE AT LABUAN. 
 
 The smallest British colony — Four miles from the great island 
 of Borneo — The North Bornean Malays — A native house — 
 The Klings — The humming-birds of the East — The carpen-
 
 Contents. xi 
 
 PAGE 
 
 ter-bee and the mason-wasp — Coal Point — A deserted pit — 
 Pig-sliooting — The goat-sucker — A monkey comedy — 
 Snakes — Native music — A brilliant sunset with a dark 
 cloud over Borneo — Looking forward . . . .119 
 
 II. 
 
 ON THE SEQUATI AND KURINA RIVERS. 
 
 First impressions of exploration — A novel experience — Making 
 a Malay house — Working and watching — Digging for oil — 
 " Orang Dusuns " — Astonishing the natives — Flying foxes 
 — Exploring and sporting — Tropical vegetation — Lost in 
 the jungle — Pangeran Brunei — A sick chief — Trading with 
 the Dusuns — " Never seen a white man before " — Search- 
 ing for coal — Christmas- day on the equator — The slave 
 question — Protecting a fugitive — An anxious night — The 
 New Year and a dark outlook — A Dusun house — " I was 
 simply a nine days' wonder " — Keeping away evil spirits — 
 " Well, well, sir ! " — Native women at work — Strange and 
 picturesque scenes — Discoveries of coal and iron — Riding 
 on buffaloes — Tropical floods — A perilous situation — 
 Geology of the Binkoka district . . . . .135 
 
 in. 
 
 UP THE LAIiUK RIVER AND OVERLAND TO KUDAT. 
 
 Tropical forests — A mysterious chief — Native ideas of gold — 
 — Discovery of a hill of pure talc — Leeches and rattans — 
 Sin-Dyaks — A river accident — Head-hunters on the watch 
 — " Like men with tails " — Omens — " Terrible news " — A 
 strange ceremony luckily concluded — A lovely scene — 
 " The giant hills of Borneo " — Collecting upas juice — 
 Mineral prospects — Initiated into the brotherhood of the 
 Bendowen Dusuns — " Oh, Kinarriugan, hear us ! " — Talk- 
 ing to a dead man's ghost — Tattooed heroes, and marks 
 denoting a coward — Rice harvests — "Only iron pyrites" — 
 More brotherhood ceremonies — A model kampong — Hard- 
 ships — Inhospitable Ghauaghauaor Tunfoul men — A ghastly 
 scene — Not head-hunting, but h ead- steal inir — Piir-killins, 
 and a dead man — Promise of minerals in the Sugut rivers —
 
 xii Contents. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Lost in the jungle — An angry native and a churlish tribe — 
 The end of the journey — " In the Bornean bush from March 
 1 to June 15 " 174 
 
 IV. 
 
 FOUR MONTHS IN THE DISTRICTS OF KINORAM AND THE MARUDU. 
 
 Looking for antimony and copper — The Marudu valley — In the 
 bed of the Kinoram River — Dangers and difficulties — 
 Camping in a cave tenanted by bats and swallows^ — -A 
 romantic night — The horrors of leeches and ticks — Immense 
 ravines — The natives " prayed me for rain " — Superstition 
 obstructs the way — The " reported antimony" tracked to its 
 "reported" hill — A treacherous guide — Sayup objects to 
 white men — Discovery of copper — Descending a precipice — 
 Limestone containing iron pyrites and a small percentage 
 of copper ......... 222 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY OF THE LAST EXPEDITION. 
 
 Difficult operations — An ancient clearing — The fable of the 
 Kinabatangan Cave — Dangers present and to come — Fever 
 and leeches — The future coal-fields of Borneo — Durian — 
 Fighting the torrent — Outcrops of coal— Lost — Expecting 
 to prospect for gold — Relics of a murder believed to have 
 been committed by the natives who killed Witti —Among 
 the Muruts — A misunderstanding that nearly led to a fight 
 — An offer to go out against Witti's murderers— Shooting 
 rapids — Swamped — " Rain, rain, nothing but rain " — 
 Narrow escapes — Dismal wastes — From the river to the sea 
 — Thunder and rain — The last entry in the last diary — 
 " River swift and deep " . . . . . . . 254 
 
 VI. 
 
 HOW THE LAST EXPEDITION ENDED. 
 
 Letter from Governor Treacher — Mr. Resident Fryer's Report — 
 Opening of the Inquest — The evidence — Adjourned for the 
 arrival of the last expeditionary boats — Verdict of the jury 282
 
 L ist of IlUtstrations. xiii 
 
 VII. 
 
 A POSTCRIPT IN LONDON. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 A visitor — The European who last saw Frank alive — Mr. Her- 
 bert Ward who is mentioned in the last diary — In Frank's 
 room at Kudat — About seven hundred miles up the Kina- 
 batangan — Frank's call at Pinungah — Talks of home — 
 Sport — Xative superstitions — Among the Tungara men — 
 Strange pipes — Poisoned arrows — '* Good-bye " — Sadness 
 and foreboding — " His men loved him " — The boy Oodeen 
 — " Roughing it — Adventures and adventurers — Expe- 
 riences at Kudat — Incidents related by Col. Harington. 
 Count ^Mongelas lost in the jungle — Sports and Pastimes 
 — Curious fishing excursion — Memorials in Borneo and 
 London ■ .... 294 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Frontispiece — Portrait of Frank Hatton. 
 
 Tanjong Kubong, or Coal Point, Labuan ' . To face page 70 
 
 Kina Ealu from the Tampassuk River : the Steam Yacht Borneo 
 
 at anchor .......... 79 
 
 On the Kinoram Ptiver To face page 80 
 
 Frank Hatton's House ' . . ...... 82 
 
 Section of Stockade Surrounding Frank Hatton's House ' . .84 
 The Attack on Mr. F. Witti ' .... To face page 86 
 
 Portrait of F. Witti . . . * 88 
 
 The Quay, Sandakan i . ....... 94 
 
 The last Journey ^ . . . . . . . . .107 
 
 Elopura, the chief Settlement in North Borneo ' . . .111 
 
 Sketch of Frank Hatton's Grave at Sandakan . To face page 112 
 Principal Street in the native town of Sandakan, Elopura 2 .115 
 A Kling 2 . . _ ^ ^ _ _ .123 
 
 The Bungalow at Labuan — a quint Corner 
 Tlie Mason-Wasp ^ . 
 
 Boniean Moths and Beetles . . ■ . 
 
 The deserted Colliery works at Labuan 
 Elk's-Horn Fern, and native Dusuns '' 
 
 To face page 124 
 . 127 
 
 To face page 128 
 . 129 
 . 147
 
 XIV 
 
 List of Illustrations. 
 
 Dusuns at a stream ' . . . 
 
 Dusim "Women threshing rice . 
 
 The Enterprise in Abai Harbour 
 
 Through storm and flood in the jungle 
 
 At work on the Labuk Eiver , 
 
 A deceitful and refractory Guide 
 
 The Perils of an unknown river 
 
 Frank Hatton is made a " Blood-Brother 
 
 Degadong .... 
 
 Talking to the dead man's ghost 
 Kina Balu, from Ghinumbaur ^ 
 Portrait of Mr. Von Donop 
 The house at Pampang, Marudu Eiver 
 " A friend in need ; " — an incident of 
 
 ]\Ir. Eesident Pryer and a group of native 
 kan ...... 
 
 Mr. Herbert Ward .... 
 
 " Good-bye till we meet again in London ! 
 
 Overlooking Sandakan Bay ' . 
 
 Colonel Arthur Harington 
 
 Borneo parang (in sheath) and Malay kiis 
 
 Group of Bornean arms . 
 
 Parang and reaper sheaths 
 
 Poisoned arrow-case and arrows 
 
 Pipes from the Tungara country 
 
 Bornean mouth-organ . 
 
 Sirih-box, knife, and detail of decoration 
 
 Dyak women ..... 
 
 Tu face page 
 
 Tu face jMffe 
 
 5) >> 
 
 " of the Dusun chief 
 
 To face page 
 
 the last expedition 
 To face p)cige 
 
 inhabitants of Sanda- 
 To face page 
 
 PAGE 
 
 162 
 1G4 
 167 
 170 
 180 
 181 
 188 
 
 196 
 204 
 221 
 238 
 253 
 
 272 
 
 287 
 . 296 
 
 To face page 305 
 „ „ 307 
 312 
 323 
 325 
 326 
 327 
 328 
 329 
 330 
 
 To face page 332 
 
 [The illustrations marked [1] are from an article entitled "Frank 
 Hatton in Borneo " in The Century Magazine ; those marked [2] are 
 from a paper on Frank Hatton's diaries entitled " Adventures on the 
 Equator," in The English Illustrated Magazine ; and those marked [3 j 
 are from Burbidge's Gardens of the Su7i, published by Mr. Murray. 
 The biographer tenders his best thanks to the editors of the above 
 magazines and to Mr. John Murray for the use of these interesting 
 engravings.]
 
 ^part I. 
 
 FRANK HATTON'S LIFE AND WORK AT HOME AND 
 IN NORTH BORNEO.
 
 NOETH BOENEO. 
 
 EXPLORATIONS AND ADYENTUUES ON THE EQUATOR. 
 
 I. 
 
 PERSONAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL. 
 
 Introductory — The epilogue, sunshine — Childhood — School life — At 
 the College of Marcq, Lille — Master of French — Enters at King's 
 College School — Oxford and Cambridge Examinations — The 
 Eoyal School of Mines — Admiration for Darwin and Huxley 
 — " Life is but a geological second " — Duty — A painless death 
 — Favourite authors — A sad story — The prologue, shadow. 
 
 I. 
 
 NY more for the 
 Continental ex- 
 press ? ' 
 
 "The electric Limps 
 ' flashed into a sud- 
 den radiance ' as 
 the sun is said to 
 do at daybreak in 
 the tropics. 
 " For a few minutes 
 previously to the 
 simultaneous leap 
 of light that trans- 
 
 formed a dozen 
 opaque globes into mimic suns, Charing Cross railway 
 station had been in semi-darkness. 
 
 K ■: B
 
 2 N^ortk Borneo. 
 
 " There was much bustle of departing travellers. 
 Parliament was up ; for even the longest and most 
 obstructed session comes to an end. Jaded legis- 
 lators, men of fashion, ladies of society, were 
 among the crowd bound for foreign shores. Lon- 
 don was emptying itself from all its avenues of 
 transit. 
 
 " ' Any more for the Continental express ? ' shouted 
 the platform inspector. 
 
 " A banging of doors, a shrill whistle, a last pressure 
 of hands through carriage-windows, and the red lamps 
 of the express for a moment challenged the white 
 sentinels of Electra, only to leave the spectators 
 gazing at the glistening track of steel along which 
 the train vanished into the outer darkness. 
 
 " They were no mere holiday travellers, the two 
 young men whose latest adieux were made to me. 
 Their guns were not to be loaded for sport on Scotch 
 moors. They were pioneers bound for the Eastern 
 seas. Adventurers had gone before, and smoothed the 
 rugged way for the allied aid of science, which London 
 and Edinburgh now contributed to North Borneo, the 
 one a chemist, metallurgical and otherwise, the other 
 a doctor of medicine. Ahead of them were a respected 
 Governor, a staff of officials and four years of 
 diplomatic history, with a royal charter of her Gracious 
 Majesty Queen Victoria to follow. 
 
 " It was, as I have already intimated, the autumn 
 time of the year, when the aspect of empty houses 
 falls with strange impressiveness upon the West-End 
 streets. The dull windows shed no illumination upon 
 the languid traffic of the finished season. There is 
 nothing more cheerless than an empty house, more
 
 Persofial and Biographical. 3 
 
 especially that which has been tenanted by your own 
 family circle. Run uyf to town from your vacation 
 retreat and note the pathetic dumbness of your 
 ' household gods.' It is an experience in sen- 
 sations. And how terribly empty is a familiar room 
 when the familiar friend has left it, not to return for 
 years ! 
 
 " Such a room stands wide open, near the desk 
 upon which I am writing. It contains a chest of 
 empty pigeon-holes, each docketed with scientific titles ; 
 a nest of shelves crowded with the transactions of 
 learned societies and technical works on mineralogy, 
 metallurgy, and geology ; a desk stained with many 
 acids ; a broken blowpipe ; a pair of foils ; a photo- 
 graph of Professor Huxley ; a kindly letter from Dr. 
 Frankland ; a cabinet of minerals in the rough ; a 
 barometer; and in one dark corner a package of 
 miscellaneous books, papers, and manuscripts, relating 
 to the sun-lands above which tower the sacred heights 
 of Kina Balu. In that empty room (the relics of the 
 former occupation of which are so eloquent to me, and 
 may be to some of my readers) a student of the Royal 
 School of Mines burnt the midnight oil. Recent 
 investigations into the influence of bacteria on gases 
 and kindred subjects gained for him considerable 
 distinction at the Institute of Chemistry and the 
 Chemical Society of London, and were recognized in 
 the scientific organs of Germany and America. These 
 labours may be said to have closed his student career. 
 Endorsed by the best authorities, he was selected by 
 the Governors of the new colony to explore its mineral 
 resources. 
 
 ** We had studied these books and papers together, 
 
 B 2
 
 4 North Borneo. 
 
 lie and I, and had thus been enabled to see, through 
 the eyes of many travellers, those almost unknown 
 lands of tropical splendour to which the pioneers have 
 gone. Since then a further collection of private 
 letters and explorers' reports have been lent to me — 
 official documents, and lettersof interesting experiences. 
 It is believed by certain friends of mine that, with this 
 exceptional material at my disposal, I may compile and 
 write a book of practical value (a pioneer volume, let 
 me call it) upon the new colony and the newest British 
 charter. The Directors have given me access to their 
 correspondence upon the subject. In addition to this 
 epistolary history, I shall avail myself of the best- 
 written sources of information that bear upon the plan 
 and object of the work in hand, the intention of which 
 is to set forth the position and prospects of the new 
 colony, and to tell the story of the East India Company's 
 nineteenth-century successor.' 
 
 ' Until thirty years ago the story of Borneo was that of an un- 
 civilized country, the possession of Avhich was a bone of contention 
 between the Dutch and the English. Oliver Van Noort visited the 
 island in 1598. A few years later his countrymen began to trade 
 with it. In 1609 they concluded a commercial treaty with the rulers 
 of the Sambas, and built a factory. After about twenty years of effort 
 they abandoned the idea of establishing a settlement, n 1707 the 
 English appeared on the Bomean coast. They built factories, but 
 with no permanent success. In 1763 they take possession of Balan- 
 bangan, and in 1774 the garrison is successfully assaulted by pirates. 
 A year later the Dutch establish a factory at Pontianak, and in 1780 
 the reigning powers cede part of the west coast to the Dutch. In 
 alliance with the Sultan of Pontianak, they destroy Succadana, and 
 in 1787 are granted portions of the south coast. In 1812 an English 
 expedition goes out against Sambar and fails ; to succeed, however, in 
 1813. In 1818 the Dutch, who during this war had been expelled by 
 the English, return, and their Bomean colonies are now formed into 
 a special government. Sir James Brooke visited Borneo in 1839, to
 
 Personal and DiograpJiical. 5 
 
 *' While I sit before that pile of books and papers, 
 
 from which the romantic story of the tropical island 
 
 and its northern colony is to be extracted, the 
 
 Continental exj)ress has transferred its travellers to 
 
 foreign boat and train. Before I have analyzed half 
 
 of my collection of letterpress and manuscript, the 
 
 former occupant of the empty room will have stood 
 
 face to face with Nature in her most lovely and yet 
 
 most strange and startling forms. Sabah has been 
 
 described as ' an earthly paradise.' The simile may 
 
 hold good, from a British point of view, when the 
 
 owners have built piers and roads and villages there 
 
 on approved models ; when the planter is on the spot 
 
 and the new colonist is sowing his rice ; when the 
 
 cooling breezes of Kina Balu waft the punkahs of hill 
 
 residences, and the wild ' gardens of the sun ' are 
 
 cultivated tracts of fruits and flowers.^ This time may 
 
 succeed in carrying out, by his own personal energy, what the great 
 East India Company had failed to accomplish. He founded Sarawak. 
 With the aid of Admiral Keppell he anniliilated the dangerous hordes 
 of pirates that infested the western coasts. He successfully stamped 
 out a rising of Chinese, in which operation the native tribes loyally 
 came to his assistance ; and he has demonstrated, financially and 
 politically, the wisdom of those early Dutch and British adventurers 
 who saw a splendid property in the island of Borneo. In 1848 tlie 
 English Government, seeing the importance of a station in this lati- 
 tude, purchased Labuan, an island off the coast of Borneo, and made 
 it an English colony, with a governor and all the necessary officers 
 and appliances of an efficient administration. Such is the brief history 
 of Burneo, possession of which is now divided between the Dutch 
 Government, the Sultan of Brunei, Rajah Brooke, and the Britislx 
 North Borneo Company, the latter endorsed in its undertaking by 
 royal charter. 
 
 2 This is only the suggestion of a possibility. The idea is conceived 
 in a more rosy vein of imagination than the reality may have war- 
 ranted. There are spots in North Borndo that might be described as 
 " earthly paradises," rich in natural beauties, blessed with pure water.
 
 6 North Borneo. 
 
 come ; and then the pioneers can rest, and we will 
 talk no more of empty rooms." 
 
 *<lf, ^ He, ^ 
 
 ^ yp 7l» *F 
 
 IT. 
 
 You have probably read these opening words before 
 as a preface to " The New Ceylon." ^ You will for- 
 give me for reprinting them here. They are the 
 prologue to a tragedy. The young scientist was 
 my son. I did not mention his name on that occa- 
 sion, out of regard for his modesty, and as a check 
 upon my own pride. Moreover, I thought his fame 
 should herald him. He should write his own name 
 upon his own book when he came home again. There 
 is a belief among orthodox Christians that punish - 
 
 glorious in perpetiial sunshine ; but tlie pioneer cutting his way through 
 the primeval forests, and sojourning with savages of the most degraded 
 types, has many dangers and miseries to tell of that do not enter into 
 the dreams of men who live on pleasant slopes by the sea, or in the 
 more settled regions, where Rajah Brooke has brought a wilderness 
 and its barbarians within the pale of civilization. The hopes of the 
 founders of British North Borneo lie in a similar direction, and one's 
 sympathies are with the pioneers ; but I looked far ahead for that 
 picture of rest in The New Ceylon, guarding myself with the reflection 
 that the simile of paradise may hold good when the tropical colonist 
 and the planter have taken and made the country their own. There are 
 plenty of indications of treasure hidden away in Bornean forests and 
 rivers ; but the heart of Sabah is still tangled, wild, unexplored, without 
 roads or even footpaths, populated by unknown tribes, "who neither eat 
 rice nor salt, and who do not associate with each other, but who rove 
 about the woods like wild beasts," with, on the other hand, here and 
 there settled villages of quiet, peaceful natives, who are being 
 gradually attracted towards the new government's stations and towns. 
 3 Tlie New Ceylon. Being a sketch of British North Borneo or 
 Sabah, from official and other exclusive sources of information. By 
 Joseph Hatton (1881).
 
 Personal and Biogj^aphical. 7 
 
 ment follows anything like an idolatrous love which 
 a father or mother may feel towards a child. The 
 dear old Vicar of Wakefield in the play emphasizes 
 this article of faith, or fear, in his solicitude for his 
 daughter Olivia. It is considered neither British 
 nor Christian to mourn, " over much," for anything or 
 anybody, but " every one can master a grief but he 
 that has it." If I am tempted, in these opening pages, 
 to lay aside a mask of apparent contentment, to wear 
 my heart upon my sleeve, and confess that for me the 
 light of the world is evermore shadowed by his death, 
 my readers will bear with me in remembrance of 
 their own private sorrows ; and if not for his sake, in 
 honour of other pioneers who have yielded up their 
 lives on the altars of science and civilization. Away in 
 the jungle of an island slope in the Malay Archipelago, 
 they have laid him beneath the palms. Pioneer in life, 
 pioneer in death. The first English tenant of the 
 little cemetery at Elopura, he rests from his labours. 
 
 III. 
 
 " One of the most remarkable young men of these 
 days," * Frank Hatton, though in no sense pre- 
 cocious as a child, developed a singular versatility of 
 talent at an early age. Fond of music, he was a 
 skilful pianist, and played several other instruments 
 moderately well. He could ride, swim, skate, shoot, 
 and had done long spins on the tricycle ; he was 
 clever at chess, was a good linguist, and wrote his 
 native language with the polish of a gentleman and 
 the finish of a scholar. A master of Malay, " the 
 
 * Daily Newa, May 8th, 1883.
 
 8 No7ih Bo7'nco. 
 
 Italian of the East," he was also conversant with 
 Dusun, one of the local tongues of Borneo, 
 and was as modest as he was accomplished. An 
 authority on water filtration and other matters of 
 scientific research, he died in his twenty-second 
 year, a scientific explorer in the service of the Govern- 
 ment of Sabah, leaving behind him a record that 
 would have been honourable to a long and industrious 
 life. His was the first white foot in many of the 
 hitherto unknown villages of Borneo. In him many 
 of the wild tribes saw the first white man. He 
 was the pioneer of scientific investigation among the 
 mountain ranges of Sabah, on its turbulent rivers, and 
 in its almost impenetrable jungle. Speaking the 
 languages of the natives, and possessing that special 
 faculty of kindly firmness so necessary to the efficient 
 control of uncivilized peoples, he journeyed through 
 the strange land not only unmolested, but frequently 
 carrying away tokens of native affection. Several 
 powerful chiefs made him their " blood brother," and 
 here and there the tribes prayed to him as if he were 
 a god. When he fell in the unexplored regions of the 
 Segama, his escort rowed his body by river and sea 
 for fifty-three hours, without sleep, that it might be 
 buried by white men in the new settlement of Elopura, 
 an act of devotion which travellers in the equatorial 
 seas will understand and appreciate. 
 
 I who write these lines am his father, but he was 
 not only my son, he was my friend and companion. 
 He lost his life while on his way home. The news 
 of his safety and his good health preceded by a few 
 days the telegraphic report of his death. When most 
 happy, we have surely most cause for fear. His mother.
 
 Personal and BiograpJiical. 9 
 
 who had never ceased to have forebodhigs of evil in 
 regard to his safety, was at last, it seemed, about to 
 enter upon a period of pleasant anticipations. We 
 were entertaining several American guests at dinner, 
 and talking of our plans in connection with his return, 
 when the telegraphic lightning struck us down. For 
 a time I believed that my career had ended with his. 
 Such ambition as had hitherto guided me is certainly 
 closed ; from the first awakening of his genius, it 
 had centred in him. It would have afforded me 
 pleasure to have effaced myself in the contempla- 
 tion of his rise and progress. I could have been 
 content to lay aside my work and have for my 
 epitaph, " He was the father and friend of Frank 
 Hatton." 
 
 I had from his childhood estimated in his interest 
 all the pitfalls that beset the path of youth and man- 
 hood. They were familiar to me. I had passed through 
 the dangers and scrambled out of the pits. I warned 
 him against them. He listened to my precepts and 
 in most things accepted my guidance. My boyhood 
 was stormy, his was peaceful. I went to school when I 
 pleased, had tutors or no tutors, played truant, studied 
 this or that, without system and without method. His 
 career was the opposite of all this. He looked at the 
 world of duty from a different standpoint. Guarding 
 his young life from every adverse wind, I had my 
 reward in a brave, upright, modest, scholarly son, to 
 whom I hoped to have bequeathed my name, and 
 the care of his mother and sisters. We had all 
 come to regard him as the prop of our small house, 
 and I knew that he was of " the stuff that great men 
 are made'." To-day, with the bright page of his
 
 lo North Borneo. 
 
 young life before me, with letters concerning him still 
 coming to me from all parts of the world, I feel that 
 I owe a duty to his memory and to humanity to tell 
 his story. Let the wisdom of my interpretation of 
 this call be judged by the following consideration of 
 the materials upon which it is founded. 
 
 IV. 
 
 Frank Hatton was born at Horfield, Gloucestershire, 
 a suburb of Bristol, England, on the 31st of August, 
 1861. I was at that time in my twenty-third year 
 and editor of a famous west-country journal, the 
 Bristol Mirror. Connected on my side with jour- 
 nalism and music, his mother brought him the health 
 and common sense of the sturdy yeomanry of Lin- 
 colnshire. Frank was her second child, and she was 
 his mother at the age of nineteen. Soon after his 
 birth we went to live at Durham. Our home is de- 
 scribed in the novel of " Clyte." Old Waller and his 
 granddaughter are, to their author, very real persons ; 
 and there are quiet, sad hours in which he sees a 
 radiant child gathering flowers in their garden. It 
 will always be to him the house in which the old 
 organist watched over the wayward belle of the 
 cathedral city, but with a bright infantile face looking 
 up at him while he is designing a fictitious story far 
 less pitiful than that of which the boy at his knee is 
 destined to be the hero. 
 
 From the north we went to Worcester. Here I 
 became proprietor of Berrow's Worcester Journal^ 
 a town councillor, an officer of volunteers', and editor
 
 Personal ajid Biographical, 1 1 
 
 of the Gentleman'' s Magazine^ dividing my days 
 between London and the pleasant cathedral city. We 
 lived at Lansdown, overlooking the pastoral valley 
 of the Severn, which stretched away under our 
 windows to the Malvern Hills. Frank had the full 
 benefit of this pure Worcestershire air. The keeper 
 of the toll-gate on the London road often opened the 
 bar to him as he rode through on an obstreperous 
 wooden horse, prancing along in mock solemnity 
 towards the city of Dick Whittington. Having lived 
 on the Wear and tbe Severn we migrated to the 
 Thames, and finally settled down by the north gate of 
 Regent's Park. 
 
 At the age of ten Frank went to his first public 
 school, an establishment in St. John's Wood, con- 
 ducted by Mr. Berridge. Soon afterwards he became 
 a pupil at the better-known establishment of Mr. 
 Barford, Upper Gloucester Place. His chief prizes 
 during several years were for good conduct. He 
 gave no indication at this time of the strong indivi- 
 duality which distinguished him a few years later. 
 At home he cultivated a taste for music and war. 
 Under the friendly tuition of a neighbour he became 
 an expert on the drum. He had played the piano fairly 
 well for years, his first teacher being the well-knowu 
 orsranist of AYorcester Cathedral, Mr. Done. His leisure 
 hours were chiefly taken up with the construction of 
 wooden fortifications, defended by a motley assemblage 
 of toy troops and captured under the fire of real 
 cannon. He was a collector of arms, pistols, swords, 
 and knives, and his bedroom was quite an arsenal. A 
 frequent visitor at the Zoological Gardens, he would 
 bring home any stray dog or cat that would follow him.
 
 T 2 A^ortJi Bo7-nco. 
 
 Mr. John Leiofliton notinof this fondness for animals in 
 his youthful neighbour, taught him to ride, and gave 
 him opportunities of proving himself both fearless and 
 graceful on horseback. Occasional visits to the Upper 
 Thames delighted him. He took a greater interest 
 in out-door games than in academic studies. Popular 
 with his companions, he was always their leader, not 
 by any exhibition of physical prowess or mental 
 superiority, but from a gentle yet firm habit of 
 getting his own way. " For a youth to be distin- 
 guished by his companions," says Disraeli, " is perhaps 
 a criterion of talent. At that moment of life, with no 
 flattery on the one side and no artifice on the other, 
 all emotion and no reflection, the boy who has obtained 
 a predominance has acquired this merely by native 
 powers." 
 
 Towards the end of the year 1874 a gimpowder 
 barge blew up in the Eegent's Canal, wrecking the 
 terrace in which Frank lived with his parents. Al- 
 though he was hurled from his bed and deposited in the 
 middle of the room amidst the debris of a shattered 
 window, he accepted the situation with the greatest 
 sang-froid. The necessity of changing our home for 
 a time suggested the desirability of seizing the oppor- 
 tunity to send Frank abroad. It had already been 
 decided that he should be entered as a student at 
 the college of Marcq, near Lille, in France, and thither 
 he went. He remained at this establishment, with 
 occasional visits home, for upwards of two years. 
 Reports concerning him were always satisfactory. He
 
 Personal and Biographical. 13 
 
 mastered the French language with singular rapidity. 
 In his general studies he only made respectable pro- 
 gress. His prizes were for good conduct, natural 
 history, and geography. When he left Lille he came 
 home with the reputation of speaking French with 
 the purest accent that an English student had ever 
 obtained there, and with high testimonials to his man- 
 liness, his morality, and his honourable disposition. 
 Trained previously in Protestant establishments, his 
 beliefs and opinions had been stirred up by his Roman 
 Catholic surroundings. For a short time he devoted 
 himself to theological studies, comparing the faiths of 
 the various sects, reading the Koran, and studying 
 the Fathers. He came jput of this personal investiga- 
 tion opposed to the formalities of creeds, with a deter- 
 mination to judge of the pretensions of the Churches 
 for himself, strongly objecting to all kinds of clerical 
 dictation, but with a generous toleration for all beliefs 
 that were honestly held. He was only a boy, and 
 he had not greatly distinguished himself in his studies ; 
 but he had a way of looking at things from a common- 
 sense standpoint, and whatever views he formed, he 
 held them with tenacity. 
 
 It was at this period of his career that he became 
 a student of King's College School. His mother in- 
 troduced him to the clerical head of the school, the 
 Rev. Dr. Maclear. I was in America at the time. Dr. 
 Maclear expressed a critical opinion unfavourable to 
 parents who send their sons to be educated in France. 
 Frank's mother ventured to say that I believed modern 
 languages to be essential in the practical education 
 of a boy who has his living to earn in these 
 days, and that modern languages should be learnt in
 
 14 North Borneo. 
 
 the countries "where thej are spoken. The head-master 
 disagreed altogether with these views, and I suspect 
 Frank's love for me would stand in the way of his 
 respect for the w^iser educationist. Clergymen having 
 the command of English scholastic establishments 
 are, as a rule, severe disciplinarians. Contrasted with 
 the gentler methods of Lille, King's College School was, 
 at best, a trifle uncongenial to Frank. He was never 
 quite as happy there as at the College of Marcq. His 
 King's College School reports show that he had a dis- 
 taste for what is called " religious knowledge ;" that he 
 was proficient in French, made good progress in Euclid, 
 his "general conduct" was "very satisfactory;" and 
 his papers are marked for the ^Easter Term of 1877 — 
 " Physical Geography and Geology — fifth of fourteen 
 who worked the advanced Oxford and Cambridge 
 paper and has made good progress," while for the 
 Easter Term of 1878, for the same studies he is set 
 down as " highly satisfactory : obtained the third place 
 of nineteen in the Oxford and Cambridge examina- 
 tions." 
 
 VI. 
 
 "When he was a boy atWorcester Frank was asked what 
 profession he would like to be when he grew to be a man. 
 " An engine-driver," was his prompt reply. Asked in 
 London at a later date a similar question, he said, " A 
 capitalist, and live retired like So-and-So." Later 
 still, when the proper time to discuss the subject 
 came, and he had given evidence of a leaning towards 
 scientific studies, he elected to be " a chemist and 
 mining engineer." Natural history at Lille, physical
 
 Personal and Biographical. 1 5 
 
 geograpliy and geology at King's College School, had 
 prepared him for chemistry and miaeralogy at the 
 School of Mines. After a short interval of Continental 
 travel, and some private readings with chemical ex- 
 perts, he entered upon the varied course of study then 
 given at Jermyn Street and South Kensington, 
 which he supplemented by geological tours around 
 London, the Isle of Wight, Derbyshire, Cumberland, 
 and other districts.^ He passed in due course all the 
 examinations in chemistry, mineralogy, magnetism, 
 and electricity, acoustics, light and heat, and applied 
 mechanics, " in the highest degree satisfactory." The 
 time which he should have devoted to physics he gave 
 up to investigations of more immediate importance, 
 leaving this one link in his chain of honours to be 
 picked up at a future day, and with it the Associate- 
 ship of the School of Mines. He worked with un- 
 abated ardour at South Kensington for three years, 
 from the age of seventeen to twenty. With his know- 
 
 * During a visit to Derbyshire lie met Mr. S. H. Bradbury, wbo 
 was then engaged in the literary preparation of his popular volume, 
 All about Derbyshire. In the chapter on "Millers Dale," I find 
 the following kindly reminiscence of Frank's holiday work : — " He 
 taught me to look at the stone walls of the Derbyshire Peak, that 
 rule off its roads and fields in hard lines of grey, with an interest that 
 such prosaic things do not usually inspire. He found in them 
 ' the fairy tales of science, and the long result of time.' He showed 
 me the legacies which the prehistoric age had left in these limestone 
 boulders ; glacial action, volcanic disturbances, the shells of the sea- 
 bed on the tops of the hills. He carried his geological hammer, his 
 botanist's satchel, and his sketch-book wherever we tramped ; to the 
 caverns at Castleton, the quarries at Burbage, the lead-mines at 
 Youlgrave, the dales, watered by the Wye, the moorland wilderness 
 of Kinderscourt. I looked at Nature with new eyes when in his 
 company."
 
 i6 A^orth Borneo. 
 
 ledge his character developed, and his political and 
 theological opinions became firm. " He was," says 
 Dr. Frankland, " one of the most genial, earnest, and 
 talented students I ever had in mj laboratory ; he was 
 a most indefatigable worker, and a skilful manipu- 
 lator." Dr. Hodgkinson, speaking of him to me the 
 other day, said " He was the only student of his time 
 to whom I entrusted delicate and dangerous opera- 
 tions ; he was implicitly reliable, and had a clean, firm 
 grip of things ; there was nothing that he could not 
 do that he cared to do " 
 
 He had an intimate knowledge of the works 
 of Darwin, Huxley, and Lyell. Professor Huxley 
 travelled as Frank did for some months between 
 Baker Street and South Kensington by underground 
 railway. "If merit were properly recognized," said 
 Frank, speaking of this one day, " instead of riding on 
 that abominable line. Professor Huxley should travel 
 in a coach and six." He was fully acquainted with 
 Sir Joseph Hooker's Malayan and other adventures, 
 and was always greatly interested in visiting Kew. 
 During the latter part of his time at South Ken- 
 sington he rode to and from Regent's Park on a 
 tricycle, and had to answer a summons once for 
 " furious riding " and upsetting a street porter. The 
 officer who brought the charge asserted that he was 
 riding at over eight miles an hour. The defendant 
 produced the maker of the machine, who swore that 
 nothing would make it travel at a greater speed than 
 five. This, with a quietly humorous account of the 
 affair from the tricyclist, brought the case to an end 
 with a nominal fine. 
 
 In addition to his arduous work at South Kensing-
 
 Personal and Biographical, 1 7 
 
 ton, he contributed a series of letters on chemical 
 subjects to a provincial paper. He wrote several 
 scientific articles for a technical newspaper published 
 in New York. He contributed a score of biographical 
 articles on modern scientists to a magazine, and he 
 wrote a singularly entertaining essay on " A Drop of 
 Thames Water," which was published in a London 
 weekly paper ; he translated a French drama by Sardou 
 for the manager of the Princess's Theatre; and en- 
 couraged by Professor Pecquet, of Lille, he began a 
 translation of " The Valley of Poppies " into French. 
 During his vacations he visited Holland, Pelgium, 
 Normandy, Germany, Italy, and France. A favourite 
 remark of his was " a thousand years is but a geological 
 second." Upon this declaration he argued that it is the 
 duty of every one to see as much of the world, and to 
 do as much in it as is possible in the short time allotted 
 to us. " We know nothing for certain about the future ; 
 let us make the most of the present." This was his cue 
 to exertion, " Time flies " was the motto that pushed 
 him on. His portrait, and that of Mr. Ashton Went- 
 wortli Dilke, M.P., appeared in the Graphic on the 
 same page — both young men, both travellers, both 
 evidently stimulated by this acute sense of the brevity 
 of man's existence. " Life must not be judged by 
 years," said Dilke a few days before ho died. There 
 is nothing particularly original in those observations. 
 It was Aristotle who said " it is by works and not by 
 age that men should be estimated," and the lesson of 
 " the geological second " is probably from Lyell, wliom 
 Frank had read continually. But it is interesting to 
 know how such remarkable young men as Dilke and 
 Frank Hatton have regarded life. 
 
 c
 
 1 8 North Borneo. 
 
 Horace Walpole's estimate of what was demanded 
 from him was very much the view of the subject of 
 these notes — " to act with common sense according to 
 the moment is the best wisdom I know ; and the best 
 philosophy to do one's duties, take the world as it 
 comes, submit respectfully to one's lot, bless the good- 
 ness that has given so much happiness with it, what- 
 ever it is, and despise affectation." 
 
 Frank Hatton always understood that although he 
 had his own way to make, he might count upon the 
 best education that money could buy and his own 
 exertions procure. 
 
 VII. 
 
 On these conditions he accepted his young life and 
 made the best of it. If he worked hard, he played also. 
 He entered into his recreations and atnusements with 
 the same energy that characterized him at work. Out- 
 door sports, the opera, the theatre, social gatherings ; 
 he enjoyed them all. There was a long, far-away look 
 in his great eyes at times, and one thinks now of that 
 absorbed expression with sad wondering. Except 
 once in a way, when some scientific problem puzzled 
 him, or he was " wool-gathering" (a charge occasionally 
 brought against him, and the most serious charge he 
 ever had to answer. Heaven bless him ! ), be was always 
 cheerful and in good spirits. Once a somewhat 
 melancholy visitor would talk of death, and Frank, 
 invited to describe what he considered the least painful 
 dissolution, replied, " To be shot dead in a charge on 
 the field of battle." Asked would he select such a 
 death if he had to choose — " I would not be a soldier," 
 he answered, " unless Eegent's Park had to be
 
 Personal and Biographical. 1 9 
 
 defended ; but I do think that to be shot in a vital 
 part is the nearest approach there is to a painless 
 death." That friend has recalled this remark to my 
 remembrance, and all the way from Borneo, in mes- 
 sages of condolence, has come the reminder that " in 
 his death there was no suffering." 
 
 Frank Hatton, when he left Bno-land for the islands 
 of the eastern seas, was in appearance the heau-ideal 
 of a young English gentleman and student. Close 
 upon six feet in height, he carried no surplus flesh. 
 He had strong hands, with long fingers and almond- 
 shaped nails. When, he surprised us as an actor in a 
 French piece at a King's College School speech-day I 
 was not the only person who thought his hands were 
 like Irving' s. They were full of life, and his fingers 
 suggested a special dexterity. This was one of the 
 secrets of his manipulative skill in scientific experi- 
 ments. He had a large foot, and he walked with a 
 long, swinging stride. His eyes were big and brown 
 and wide apart, his eyebrows black and perfectly 
 arched. He had thick, brown, silky hair, a high but 
 compact forehead, large ears, a generous mouth, a 
 strong straight nose, and teeth of singular regularity 
 and whiteness. In repose the expression of his face 
 was thoughtful, almost sad ; under the. influence of 
 conversation it was bright and full of animation. He 
 enjoyed a joke keenly, often quoted Artemus Ward 
 and Mark Twain, occasionally Dickens, but more 
 frequently Shakespeare. It is not my desire to 
 obtrude my feelings in regard to him upon the reader; 
 but I find it difficult to get away from this picture of 
 him as I recall the dearly loved figure and watch once 
 again a hand waving to me its last farewell, from a 
 
 c 2
 
 20 North Borneo. 
 
 railway- carriage "window, on that sad autumn night I 
 have already spoken of. With what tearful eyes I went 
 home to tell his mother (from whom he had already 
 taken leave) how cheerfully he went away ; how they 
 were dried by-and-by when we began to have letters 
 from him, and how we rejoiced at his safe arrival; 
 how we waited for news of him when he had entered 
 upon his work ; bow when Witti, a fellow-explorer, 
 and his men were massacred, we resolved to send 
 for Frank home ; how we received reassuring letters 
 from him and the Company ; how he got on well with 
 the natives, and sent home despatches full of a strange 
 wisdom for one so young ; how we, all of us, wrote 
 to him every week ; how his letters thrilled us witb 
 pleasure as they recorded his success ; how we suf- 
 fered when he was laid up with fever ; how he was 
 better almost before we bad had time to deplore his 
 illness ; how at last he cheered us finally with the 
 news that he was starting on his last expedition prior 
 to returning home ; how we got intelligence of his 
 safety and good health, and his nearing the end of his 
 journey ; and how in the midst of our happiness came 
 tidings of his death ; the joy and the misery and the 
 final heart-break of all this goes without saying. But 
 the story of the closing days of his brave young life is 
 full of a touching pathos that must have a fascination 
 for all tender souls. Considering the narrative as a 
 stranger might, who had never looked into his frank 
 brown eyes nor heard the music of his voice, I would 
 still, I think, be deeply touched by the brief record of 
 his industrious, heroic, and blameless career.
 
 II. 
 
 REMINISCENCES AND RELICS! 
 
 The lost diaries — A difficult task — Many-sidedness — " Man proposes " 
 — First talks about Borneo — Choice of work — Borneo or Guy's 
 Hospital? — "Too young! He will get over that" — Risks at 
 home and abroad — Omens — Memories — Contributions to the 
 press — A scientific controversy — The adventures of a drop of 
 Thames Avater — At the Chemical Society — A visit to Rothschild's 
 and the Mint — Packing up. 
 
 I. 
 
 I HAD hoped that if- ever the brief story of my own 
 career should be deemed worth the telhng, he would 
 have been my biographer. It had occurred to me, 
 in this connection, that the famous people I had known 
 and their influence on historic events would be for him 
 interesting subjects of study. AYith these thoughts in 
 my mind I had during his absence laid aside and collated 
 many papers and letters for his perusal. When my time 
 should come, I thought I would leave him the literary 
 and journalistic notes of my labours and associations, 
 that he might know me even from the time before he 
 was born. It seemed to me as if I were putting my house 
 in order for him. I likened myself to the old year 
 that was going out ; I thought of him as the new 
 one that was coming in. I should rest from my 
 labours. He would begin his work in the great world
 
 2 2 North Borneo. 
 
 well equipped for his duties, and with a clearer know- 
 ledge of what they were than I ever had of mine. 
 It is strange that I am left and he is gone. It is I 
 who have to tell his story, not he mine. The world 
 needed him far more than it needs me. He was a 
 chemist learned in research, a metallurgist versed in 
 geological mysteries ; he had the gift of tongues, 
 he was endowed with a faculty of government pecu- 
 liarly valuable in the control of uncivilized peoples, 
 he had the temperament and constitution, the intellec- 
 tual grasp that are characteristic of great men. He 
 was old enough to suggest all this in his habits and 
 work, and young enough to give promise of a gracious 
 manhood and a useful career. Yet he has gone, and I 
 remain with my uneventful life, my commonplace story 
 of journalistic and literary drudgery ; and I have not 
 even the poor consolation of printing for him -a com- 
 plete record of his work. He had no yearning for a 
 fame that was not based upon a broad and deep 
 foundation. His modesty was equial to his merit. 
 But he intended to w^rite a book on Borneo, a book of 
 travel that should be many-sided, and for this purpose 
 he kept careful diaries of his expeditions, and notes 
 of his impressions. Only a portion of the first, and 
 pencil memoranda of his last diary have been found. 
 But extracts from the others which he furnished 
 to the Governor and the Company, give warrant, 
 on public grounds, for this labour of love upon which 
 I am engaged. They are interesting contributions 
 to the histor}^ of a comparatively unknown country. 
 Their acknowledged value as mere extracts serves to 
 emphasize the loss of the more elaborate manuscripts.
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. 
 
 II. 
 
 I am writing these chapters in the full belief that, 
 sympathizing with my position, the reader will over- 
 look the shortcomings of my work. It was my inten- 
 tion to set forth in minute detail all my joyous remem- 
 brances of him. The soul of modesty, he would have 
 shrunk from such a record in print. I am trying to 
 think what he might not haA^e objected to have me 
 say of him now. Desirous to honour his memory in 
 this volume, I am trying to put myself outside the 
 subject, and even to consider it editorially ; I am 
 trying not to be myself, but ending, I fear, in being 
 very much myself; and so if any of my readers 
 have lost a dear son or a much-loved friend, they 
 will forgive me if I fall short of that high standard 
 of biographic skill which a perfect critical taste in 
 these matters has set up. I have before me the 
 numerous certificates of learned examiners who en- 
 dorsed the success of his studies in various branches 
 of scientific knowledge. He was proud to bring them 
 to me, because he knew they gave me pleasure, but 
 he took no particular pains to preserve them on 
 his own account. He valued the honour conferred 
 upon him by the Institute of Chemistry, and was 
 delighted to be a Fellow of the Chemical Society ; but 
 he did not use the letters that belong to these distinc- 
 tions upon his address card, nor did he write them 
 after his signature. " Some day," he said to me, 
 *' perhaps I may become a Fellow of the Royal Society, 
 and that will include the rest." I think he could have 
 become whatever he wished. He was a worker. 
 Genius iu his estimation meant labour. Whatever ho
 
 24 North Borneo. 
 
 thought it worth while to do, he did in earnest, 
 and he took an interest in almost everything. He was 
 on good terms with all kinds of toilers. Engine 
 drivers on the Underground Railway, gasmen at work 
 laying new mains, keepers at the Zoo, 'bus-drivers, tri- 
 cyclists ; he would talk to all of them about their work 
 or play. " That boy of yours," said an American 
 doctor, " gets to the bottom of things, he can't help it ; 
 if there is anything to find in Borneo, he will find it ! " 
 Thinking now of the hardships he endured out there, 
 I try to remember the keen delight with which he 
 made the arrangements for his journey, the vigour 
 with which he studied up some special subjects it was 
 desirable he should know, the happiness it was to him 
 when he could show me, among his physical accomplish- 
 ments, how well he could swim. And I was overjoyed 
 to think that I had saved him from the drudgery of 
 newspaper work, from the toil of writing stories when 
 one would rather not ; though I believe that had he 
 been spared, he would have entered the world of letters 
 with his full mind, his bright intellect and his travelled 
 experience, and that humanity would have been the 
 better for his sympathy and his labours. 
 
 in. 
 
 His engagementby the British North Borneo Company 
 was no work of mine. It was talked of in a general 
 way for many months before any practical negotiations 
 took place between Frank and the directors. In the 
 meantime we read up together the history of the 
 Eastern seas. We became authorities on the Dutch 
 and Spanish and English claims to the island of 
 Borneo. I did not think at that time that the business
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. 25 
 
 would go any further than this. "But I recall that his 
 mother would often look anxiously across the table at 
 him when Borneo was the subject of our after-dinner 
 chats. One day Frank came home and said he had 
 accepted the position of mineral explorer and metal- 
 lurgical chemist to the British North Borneo Com- 
 pany, " with your consent, of course." Then both 
 his mother and myself began to argue against his 
 choice of work. There had been an opening pro- 
 posed for him as assistant chemist at Guy's Hospital. 
 We hinted that perhaps he had better begin his 
 career at home. " By analyzing poisoned stomachs ? " 
 he said quietly ; " that is not a very interesting 
 occupation, is it?" The position of chemist in a 
 great dye works had been spoken of as likely to be 
 vacant, and an American friend had offered him 
 remunerative employment on the other side of the 
 Atlantic in that same direction. " No," he replied, 
 " I don't care for dye works. I would like to see 
 America ; and might I not come home from Borneo 
 through Japan and by way of San Francisco and New 
 York ? " 
 
 *' I fear you are too young for so serious and respon- 
 sible a position as the Borneo Company offer you," 
 I said. 
 
 "They don't think so," he answered, "and I have 
 seen some of the directors several times. I am twenty. 
 Life is so short, one cannot begin it too early. Besides, 
 I must see the world ; you have said so. You have pro- 
 posed that I shall have six mouths of travel, that I shall 
 go all through America. Here I am offered more than 
 we ever dreamed of, a great Eastern journey, and every- 
 thing that can make travel interesting, and with the
 
 2 6 North Borneo. 
 
 prospect of a fortune at the end of it. I am to have 
 a bonus on results, beyond my salary." 
 
 T went into the city, proud of the boy's courage, but 
 with the traditional story of Borneo in my mind, and 
 with ugly thoughts of fever and other tropical difficul- 
 ties and dangers that beset the European path on the 
 equator. Mr. Alfred Dent, the founder of the Com- 
 pany, and Mr. William M. Crocker, now its manager, 
 spoke of my son in very kindly terms. They believed 
 in young men, and in particular they believed in my 
 son. 
 
 " Do you not think he is too young for the position ? " 
 I asked. 
 
 " Too young ! He will get over that," said an elderly 
 gentleman (looking up from a letter he was writing) 
 to whom I w^as introduced. 
 
 This third gentleman in our conversation was Mr. 
 William Henry Macleod Eead, one of the first directors 
 of the Company, and whose name is a tower of strength 
 in that part of the East we were discussing. 
 
 "He is a fine young fellow," said Mr. Read, "and 
 he will make his way." 
 
 " But the climate ? " I said. 
 
 " Well, it is hot," he replied ; " but I have lived out 
 there most of my life, and I am over seventy." 
 
 Mr. Read was the picture of health, and I began to 
 fear that I was playing the part of the over-anxious 
 father. Nevertheless I carried home a bundle of papers, 
 printed and in manuscript, relating to the Company, its 
 work, its objects and affairs, resolved to study them and 
 to master the modern story of Borneo. I was struck 
 with the adventurous narratives of a Mr. F. Witti, who 
 was in the Company's service ; and I found that only
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. 27 
 
 a very small section of the Company's territory had 
 been explored. Then I talked over with Mr. Dent the 
 work which Frank would have to do. " It will be 
 entirely different to that of Witti," he said, " who is a 
 born explorer, one of those adventurous men who like 
 danger for its own sake, and who prefer to wander up 
 and down the earth in outlandish places rather than 
 to settle in civilized quarters. When Frank travels, it 
 will be under more favourable conditions." 
 
 The truth is, they did not quite know in London 
 what would be Frank's real work in Borneo ; but I 
 made an express condition that if he had to undertake 
 expeditions into the interior, he should at least have 
 one eflftcient white officer (an Englishman) on his staff. 
 In my ignorance of Eastern work, and especially of 
 Bornean exploration, I tried to stipulate for English 
 servants, but soon understood' the impracticability 
 of that idea. 
 
 Presently Frank was continually at the Borneo offices 
 in the city. I think the most active of the directors 
 took occasion to see him often. The Governor, Mr. 
 Treacher, came to London. Frank met him and had a 
 long conversation with him. A water-party on the 
 Thames was given to the Governor. Frank was there. 
 He became personally and well acquainted with the 
 leading officials of the new government. He liked 
 them. They liked him. The more they saw of him 
 the more they approved their choice of the young 
 officer who should form and establish their scientific 
 department.
 
 28 North Borneo. 
 
 IV. 
 
 I was in America while Frank was making his final 
 preparations for leaving England. His letters to me 
 during that period were full of his work. He was 
 taking counsel, advice, and lessons in many things. 
 Some of the learned and kindly men of the Geographi- 
 cal Society were helping him. He was deep in the 
 mysteries of solar observations, navigation, survey- 
 ing; in the interv^als of these studies he was swim- 
 ming, boating, shooting; these occupations and the 
 collection of his outfit and scientific equipment found 
 him at work early and late ; so that at last, when all 
 was prepared, the time for departure was welcomed 
 as a period of rest. I never ceased to make inquiries 
 as to the possible influence upon him physically and 
 morally of his work. Crossing the Atlantic, I had a 
 long conversation with Captain Murray, then of the 
 Arizona^ who had for a time commanded a trading 
 steamer on the Amazon. He gave me many interest- 
 ing accounts of his tropical experiences, and envied 
 Frank the investigation of the unexplored rivers of 
 Borneo. Colonel Knox, an American journalist and 
 author, who had visited the Sabah coast, assured me 
 I had nothing to fear, and much to be proud of, in the 
 appointment of my son. " He will be well attended and 
 well provisioned on his excursions, and his mind will 
 be so full of his work that he will not have time to be 
 sick." I received a shock on returning home. Con- 
 sulting a medical friend, who knew Frank well, as to 
 the influences of a hot climate upon a boy of his 
 physique, I told him that the only illness Frank had 
 ever had was an attack of bronchitis. " He could not
 
 Reminiscences aiid Relics. 29 
 
 go to a better climate, then," said my friend; *' it will 
 help him, and after being immured for so long in the 
 laboratories at Kensington, his system will receive a 
 fillip out there, and the trip will make a man of him. 
 But of course you will insure his life ? " 
 
 " No, indeed I will not," I said. 
 
 " Then the Company must," he said. 
 
 " Because he is eroino^ to a climate that will be grood 
 for him ? " 
 
 *' Oh, no," said my friend, " but for the same reason 
 that you make an extra and special insurance on your 
 life when you go to America — in case of accident. Not 
 that, to my thinking, he will run any more risks out 
 there than he runs every day in London, especially as 
 a tricyclist." 
 
 " The cases have no point in common, let us not 
 discuss them ; do you think it is good for Frank to 
 accept this appointment?" 
 
 " Good ! It is a splendid chance for him — such a 
 chance as falls to the lot of very few young fellows at 
 the outset of a career." 
 
 He saw that his remark about insurance had 
 troubled me for the moment. And yet I let Frank go. 
 "When I came home after saying good-bye to him, his 
 mother said, *' I shall never see him again ;" and yet 
 I did not say, " Come back." 
 
 Not long before we heard the first good news of his 
 last expedition, a little shrine, which his sisters had set 
 up to him, fell to the ground. I am not superstitious, but 
 ray heart seemed to stand still when they reported this to 
 me ; and I think we all looked at each other apprehen- 
 sively. If afterwards, in our sorrow, we had calculated 
 the date of that occurrence, I believe it would have proved
 
 30 North Borneo. 
 
 to be on March 1st, 1882. When the despatch came 
 which reported him well and in good spirits, and on 
 his way down the Segama river, I remember our 
 delight ; but I awoke in the night from a troubled 
 dream, with his voice in mj ear. "But here am I, all 
 alone, on an island of antimony," were the strange 
 words he said. I mention these things without at- 
 taching any importance to them, but as curious matters, 
 and as incidents that my memory persists in registering. 
 His voice had been silenced for ever when I heard it 
 in my dream. It could have had no spiritualistic 
 association with his death. Though, as I said, I am 
 not superstitious, my first " hoping against hope " 
 arose in a fanciful reflection that so great was his love 
 for me, and mine for him, that if anything serious had 
 happened to him I should have felt it in some mys- 
 terious way ; that I should have seen him perhaps, as 
 the Corsican, in a play that had greatly delighted him, 
 saw his brother on the field of death. In these days I 
 find that I try to comfort myself with the reflection 
 that his last moments were not embittered b}^ a thought 
 of us ; that his death was too sudden for more than a 
 fleeting knowledge of his hurt ; that unconsciousness 
 instantly followed his exclamation, "I am dead ! " — 
 that he died before he had time to think of the grief 
 his death would cause at home ; and, therefore, that he 
 passed away happily. 
 
 The misery of such deaths falls to those who 
 are left behind. We know that we had been in 
 his mind. He had been in high spirits, with the 
 knowledge that he was within a few days of the 
 station where he would get letters from us. He was 
 also on his way to Silam, Sandakan Kudat, to collect
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. • 31 
 
 liis things together, put up his diaries, pack his 
 geological and botanical specimens, and then " home- 
 ward bound." He had met a young Englishman in 
 the interior some days before the end, and had been 
 talking of home, of Regent's Park, of London ; and we 
 knew that we had been in his thoughts, and possibly 
 were so up to a few minutes before his death. It was 
 characteristic of him to have dreamy reveries ; there 
 was often, as I have said, an inspiration of " far-away 
 thoughts" in his brown eyes. His mind may have 
 been busy with other scenes when he was struck down. 
 The hint of thoughtlessness in the use of his weapon 
 on this fatal day pictures him in my fancy marching 
 to his boat heedless of his surroundings. " He met 
 with an accident," writes one of his friends, " which 
 might have occurred anywhere, and the kind of accident 
 that is common in the history of sport and travel all 
 over the world." 
 
 One night, in New York, a few months after his 
 death, I sat and listened while Dr. Fordyce Barker 
 explained to a little party after dinner the instant 
 collapse that follows on a person being shot through 
 the lungs.' One has often to bear blows of this kind, 
 
 ^ Dr. Fordyce Barker, wlio was intimate with Dickens, during that 
 ilhistrious author's visits to America, was one of the guests. He 
 started, among other subjects, a very interesting conversation. 
 
 " Have you ever made studies of deaths for stage purposes % " asked 
 Dr. Barker. 
 
 "No." 
 
 "And yet your la.st moments of Mathias and of Louis XI. are 
 perfectly consistent and correct psychologically." 
 
 " My idea is to make death in these cases a characteristic Nemesis ; 
 for example, Mathias dies of the fear of discovery ; he is fatally 
 haunted by the dread of being founil out, and dies of it in a dream. 
 Louis pulls himself together by a great effort of will in iiis weakest pliy-
 
 2,2 North Boi^neo. 
 
 unconsciously given. I saw that pathetic scene in tlie 
 jungle while the doctor was speaking, heard the last 
 words, saw the boat with its dear freight gliding 
 through the tropical night ; and yet I was sharing in 
 the talk over the wine, and I was thankful to the 
 doctor for his emphatic opinion, that to be shot through 
 the lungs raeans a sudden and painless death. 
 
 V. 
 
 In 1880-1 Frank contributed a long series of " Science 
 Notes " to a country journal, under the nom de plume 
 of " A Professor of Chemistry." They cover about 
 forty newspaper columns. I find them in a scrap- 
 book, annotated with a few memoranda here and 
 there. The "Notes" are in themselves more or less 
 instructive ; they exhibit a general love of inquiry and 
 a desire to thrash out controversial subjects. A cordial 
 
 sical moment, to fall dead — struck as if by a thunderbolt — while giving 
 an arrogant command that is to control heaven itself ; and it seems 
 to me that he should collapse ignominiously, as I try to illustrate." 
 
 " You succeed perfectly," the doctor replied, " and from a 
 physiological point of view, too." 
 
 " Hamlet's death, on the other hand, I would try to make sweet 
 and gentle as the character, as if the ' flights of angels winged him to 
 his rest.'" 
 
 " You seem to have a genius for fathoming the conceptions of your 
 authors, Mr. Irving," said the doctor ; " and it is, of course, very 
 important to the illusion of a scene that the reality of it should be 
 consistently maintained. Last night I went to see a play called 
 ' Moths,' at Wallack's. There is a young man in it who acts very 
 well ; but he, probably by the fault of the author more than his own, 
 commits a grave error in the manner of his death. We are told that 
 he is shot through the lungs. This means almost immediate uncon- 
 sciousness, and a quick, painless death ; yet the actor in question came 
 upon the stage after receiving this fatal wound, made a coherent 
 speech, and died in a peaceful attitude." — Henry Irving' s Impressions 
 of America.
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. ■i^'T) 
 
 acknowledgment of the merits of great men, and an 
 appreciation of their work, are manifest throughout the 
 entire series. But it appears that Frank had an oppo- 
 nent with whom he occasionally crossed swords. One 
 of his encounters is worth recording. It is sufficiently 
 explained in the young professor's reply, and I think 
 the subject is one that may not be uninteresting for its 
 own sake. 
 
 In some notes of mine which appeared a few weeks ago in your 
 columns, I made some statements concerning Mr. Joshua Prusol, 
 which " a Reader of ColhurnHs New Monthly also " has taken very 
 much to heart. In his very enthusiastic but somewhat indiscreet 
 letter in your last week's issue, he makes some remarks which I feel 
 obliged, in the interests of common sense and Avholesome scientific 
 thought, to contradict. In my refutation I wiU overlook the entire 
 absurdity of the whole article, and shut my eyes, as far as possible, to 
 the lamentaljle ignorance of scientific knowledge which it displays. I 
 will treat the arguments, however, as those of a thinking man, and will 
 now call in review the " theories " which your correspondent advances ; 
 theories, by -the-bye, which the merest tyro at science could easily refute. 
 The " Reader of Colhurn's New Monthly also " begins by a dogmatic 
 statement that " where there is no atmosphere there is no heat," and 
 that " the heat we enjoy is not solar but atmospheric." As a proof of 
 this he brings forward the cold of the Arctic regions, and states, 
 entirely on his own authority, that " were the sun the source of heat, 
 the intensity of the cold would increase, till in a short time there 
 would be no heat, and thus the men would be congealed into statues." 
 It is evident to me, from the above, that the gentleman in question 
 does not know what heat is ; it seems that he is bringing to life the 
 old theory of caloric, a theory exploded at least a hundred years ago. 
 For your correspondent's edification, and I hope instruction, I will 
 give the following : — The heat of a body is caused by an extremely 
 rapid oscillating or vibratory motion of its molecules, and the hottest 
 l)odies are those in which the vibrations have the greatest velocity and 
 llie greatest amplitude. Hence heat is not a substance., but a corulition 
 of matter, and a condition whirh can be transferred from one Ixidy to 
 the other. There is also pn)bal)ly an elastic ether whicli pervades all 
 matter and infinite space. A hot body sets this in rapid vibration, and 
 
 D
 
 34 North Borneo, 
 
 the vibrations of this ether being communicated to material objects, 
 gives them a more rapid vibration, that is, increases their temperature. 
 If we stand in front of a fire, we experience a sensation of Avarmth 
 which is not due to the temperature of the air, for if a screen be inter- 
 posed, the sensation immediately disappears, which would not be the 
 case if the surrounding air had a high temperature. Hence bodies can 
 send out rays which excite heat, and which penetrate through the air 
 tcithout heating it, as rays of light through transparent bodies. Heat 
 thus propagated is said to be radiated ; and the term, ray of heat or 
 calorific ray is used in the same sense as ray of light is used. In a 
 homogeneous medium, radiation takes place in a right line. The 
 intensity is less the greater the obliquity of the rays, with respect to 
 the radiating surface. Thermal rays falling upon a body are divided 
 into two parts, one of which penetrates the body, while the other 
 rebounds — that is, it is reflected from the surface. We live here at the 
 bottom of an aerial ocean, which is to a remarkable degree permeable 
 to the sun's rays of light and heat, and is but little if at all affected by 
 the direct action of this heat. But the rays when they fall upon the 
 earth heat its surface, and when upon the ocean evaporate the water. 
 The air, in direct contact with the heated surface of the earth, which 
 surface is reflecting back and radiating the solar heat, becomes warmed, 
 and it is a principle of physics that hot air is lighter than cold air. 
 This warm air then rises and flows northwards towards the poles, 
 while the cold air from the Arctic regions flows southward to the' 
 equator, This is the principle of trade-winds, hot winds blowing from 
 the equator to the poles, and cold winds from the poles to the equator. 
 This is one of the causes which tends to modify the rigour of the Polar 
 night. Another is that the heat stored up by the earth's surface during 
 the summer months is radiated slowly, and thus the atmosphere is 
 warmed by gradual radiation from the earth's surface of solar heat 
 received during the summer. Absence of heat or "no heat," as the 
 " Reader of Colhurrts New Monthly also " puts it, has never been 
 observed ; and as there is never an absence of motion in matter, inso- 
 much as molecular motion always exists, there is probably no total 
 absence of heat : for heat is motion. During the day, or Polar 
 summer, the ground receives more heat than it radiates into space, and 
 the temperature rises. The reverse is the case during the night ; the 
 heat which the earth loses by radiation is no longer compensated for, 
 and, consequently, a fall of temperature takes place. In tropical Bengal 
 this nocturnal cooling is used for the manufacture of ice. . Large flat 
 vessels containing water are placed on non-conducting substances, such
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. 35 
 
 as straw or dry leaves. In consequence of the rat-liation the water 
 freezes, even when the temperature of the air is 60° Fahr. If the heat 
 did not come from the sun, but were common to the atmosphere, there 
 would be no evaporation, and therefore no clouds. It will now be 
 seen how absurd a fallacy it is to talk of " heat dormant in the 
 atmosphere." But as a convincing proof that heat comes from the 
 sun, the following experiment is useful : — "When a solar ray admitted 
 through an aperture in a dark room is concentrated on a prism of rock 
 salt, and then, after emerging from the prism, is received on a screen, 
 it will be found to present a band of colours in the following order : 
 red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and violet. This is the light and heat 
 spectrum. (It demonstrates the fact that white light is composite.) 
 If, now, a narrow and delicate thermo-pile or thermometer be placed 
 successively on the space occupied by each of the colours, it will be 
 scarcely affected on the violet ; but in passing over the other colours it 
 will indicate a gradual rise of temperature, which is greatest at the red. 
 If the thermometer be now moved in the same direction beyond the 
 limits of the luminous spectrum, the temperature will gradually rise 
 for a considerable space beyond the light spectrum. This is the heat 
 spectnon. It is therefore seen that the sun's light consists of rays of 
 light and heat of different rates of vibration ; by their passage through 
 the prism they are unequally broken or refracted ; those with shorter 
 wave-lengths are the most refrangible. This experiment will also hold 
 good for all sources of heat, as candles, the moon, electric light, &c. 
 
 The next point in the letter of the "Reader of Colbum's Neio Monthly 
 also " is the vacuum, which he says I introduced into my notes, " to 
 strengthen " my " ratiocination that heat comes from the sun." I am 
 sure I did no such thing, as the observation has no connection with 
 the matter. I merely stated a fact, that heat passes through a vacuum. 
 Your correspondent tells me to " experiment with a vacuum, enclosed 
 both top and sides with glass," and adds (somewhat after the fashion 
 of the " March Hare " in " Alice in Wonderland," who, when the 
 " Hatter " says that he knew butter would not suit the works of his 
 watch, replies, " It was the best butter, you know,") that, " it must be 
 plate glass to resist the pressure." How does one enclose a vacuum 
 " top and sides," or which is the top of a vacuum and where are the 
 sides; and does your correspondent leave out the bottom altogether? 
 However this may be, he concludes from this remarkable experiment 
 performed with a vacuum, with " a top and sides," that " the atmo- 
 sphere, the mother of heat, as far as possible is drawn out of it, and he 
 will," referring to myself, ** find that the heat is so wonderful withiu 
 
 D 2
 
 36 North Borneo. 
 
 subject to all these favourable conditions that water is instantly 
 congealed to ice ! " Before going into the other " conclusions " drawn 
 from these truly novel "top and side vacuum" experiments, I will 
 briefly state the reason that water solidifies when the air is pumped 
 out of a receiver in which water is contained. Whatever be the 
 temperature at which a vapour is produced, an absorption of heat 
 always takes place. If, therefore, a liquid evaporates and does not 
 receive from without a quantity of heat equal to that which is 
 expended in producing the vapour, its temperature sinks, and the 
 cooling is greater in proportion as the evaporation is more rapid. 
 Leslie succeeded in freezing water by means of rapid evaporation. 
 Under the receiver of an air-pump is placed a vessel containing strong 
 sulphuric acid, and above it a thin metal capsule, containing a small 
 quantity of water. On exhausting the receiver the water begins to 
 boil, and since the vapours are absorbed by the sulphuric acid as fast 
 as they are generated, a rapid evaporation is produced, which quickly 
 eflfects the freezing of the water. 
 
 By means of the rapid evaporation of bisulphide of carbon the 
 formation of ice may be illustrated without the aid of an air-pump. 
 A little water is dropped on a board, and a capsule of thin copper foil, 
 containing bisulphide of carbon, is placed in the water. The evapora- 
 tion of the bisulphide is accelerated by means of a pair of bellows, 
 and, after a few minutes, the water freezes round the capsule, 
 so that the latter adheres to the wood. In like manner, if water 
 be placed in a test-tube, which is then dipped in a glass containing 
 ether, and a current of air be blown through the ether, the cold pro- 
 duced by the rapid evaporation of the ether very soon freezes the water 
 in the tube. Such experiments as these, which can, and shall, if 
 necessary, be multiplied to infinity, show the entire absurdity of talking 
 of " the atmosphere, which is the mother of heat, being drawn out," 
 or of the " cold within the vacuum being the same which exists on the 
 unapproachable mountain heights," or such kindred nonsense. (By 
 the way, what is the " converging power " of a piece of plate glass ? 
 I am anxiovis to be informed.) 
 
 The next point to refute is your correspondent's assertion that heat 
 does not pass through a vacuum. Radiant heat is jiropagaied in vacuo 
 as well as in air. This is demonstrated by the following experiment : — 
 In the bottom of a glass flask (not a plate-glass one in this case) a 
 thermometer is fixed in such a manner that its buib occupies the centre 
 of tlie flask. The neck of the flask is carefully narrowed by means of 
 the blowpipe, and then the apparatus having been suitably attached,
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. 37 
 
 a vacuum is produced in the interior. This being done, the tube is 
 scaled at the narrow part, and we have an exhausted flask containing 
 a thermometer. On immersing this apparatus in hot water, or on 
 bringing near it some red-hot charcoal, the thermometer is at once seen 
 to rise. This could only arise from radiation through the vacuum in 
 the interior, for glass is so bad a conductor of heat that the heat could 
 not travel through the sides of the flask and down the stem of the 
 thermometer in so short a time. (This may also be considered a proof 
 that the hypothetical ether is present in a vacuum.) 
 
 The " Constant Eeader of Colhurn's Neio Monthly also " then goes 
 on to deny my assertion that Tyndall, in common with many other 
 observers, has recorded high temperature when at considerable eleva- 
 tions. The " C. R. of a N. M. also " states that " the story of Tyndall 
 is apparently a fiction, and is open and apparent nonsense, which I 
 feel sure your Professor of Chemistry will be careful not to repeat." 
 This is a very indiscreet remark, especially as the " Constant Reader 
 of Golburris New Monthly " does not seem to have read anything else 
 but Colhurn^s New Monthly, Avhich, admirable as it is, is not a scientific 
 work, and is not sufficient to base one's scientific knowledge upon. I 
 cannot do better than quote Tyndall himself in refutation of the 
 accusation that I am an inventor of science facts which never existed. 
 
 In Tyndall's " Glaciers of the Alps," during the ascent of " Monte 
 Rosa," over 15,000 feet high, when at an elevation of over 12,000 
 feet, Tyndall says: — "There was not a breath of air stirring, and 
 though we stood ankle-deep in snow, the heat surpassed anything of 
 the kind I had ever felt ; it was the dead suff"ocating warmth of an 
 oven which encompassed us on all sides, and from which there seemed 
 no escape." The " Constant Reader of Golburn^s New Monthly " also 
 says that " Tyndall himself, although he is well known as an Alpine 
 tourist in search of knowledge, to climb such a height would be quite 
 beyond his physical endurance." 
 
 I am at a loss to understand why this statement is made, for every 
 reader of even ordinary literature or of the London Times knows that 
 Professor Tyndall has been up Mont Blanc (16,000 feet) several times, 
 both alone and in company with I'rofessor Huxh^y and Dr. Frankland. 
 His ascent of the Matterhorn (14,000 feet) is a known fact, and Monte 
 Rosa's summit has often been trodden by the Professor. In " Glaciers 
 of the Alps," during an ascent of Mont Blanc, he says : — "At length 
 success became certain, and at half-past three p.m. we joined hands on 
 the top." 
 
 Tyndall, in " Heat as a Mode of Motion," quotes the following from
 
 J 
 
 8 North Borneo. 
 
 Sir Joseph Hooker's "Himalayan Journal," 1st edition, vol. ii. page 
 407 : — " From a multitude of desultory observations, I conclude that, 
 at7400 feet, 125-7°, or G7'0° (Fahrenheit's scale) above the temperature 
 of the air, is the average effect of the sun's rays on a black bulb 
 thermometer. The effect is much increased by elevation. At 10,000 
 feet, in December, at 9 a.m., I saw the mercury mount to 132° Fahr., 
 while the temperature of the shaded snow was 22° Fahr. At 13,000 
 feet, in the following month, at 9 a.m., I saw it stand at 98°, with a 
 difference of 68-2° ; and at ten o'clock, at 1 14° (Fahr.), with a difference 
 of 81-4°, whilethe thermometer placed onthesnow had fallen, at sunrise, 
 to 07 of a degree, or 31-3° below the freezing point, on Fahrenheit's 
 scale." Tyndall's explanation of this phenomenon is as follows : — 
 " These enormous differences between the shaded and the unshaded air, 
 and between the air and tlie snow, are no doubt due," as I mentioned 
 in my original rote, " to the comparative absence of moisture at these 
 elevations. The air is incompetent to check either the solar or the 
 terrestrial radiation, and hence the maximum heat in the sun and the 
 maximum cold in the shade must stand very wide apart." Quite dry 
 air acts, in fact, towards solar heat as a vacuum and the heating of the 
 atmosphere is all due to the presence of aqueous vapour in it ; as quite 
 dry air transmits heat-rays without itself being warmed at all. This 
 was proved by Tyndall at the last B.A. at Swansea. Such observations 
 as these have been recorded by Sir J. Herschel, Dr. Livingstone, and 
 numerous other eminent men, and I could quote page after page of 
 similar observations in direct support of what I have stated. 
 
 The remainder of the letter in question needs no explanation or 
 refutation from me, as its fallacy is so palpable that the most hasty of 
 your readers will already have discovered the mass of errors of which 
 it is composed. In conclusion, I may recommend the " Eeader of 
 Colbnrn's New Monthly " to invest a shilling in the purchase of an 
 elementary primer of physics and astronomy, where he may learn 
 the rudiments of a science about which neither himself nor, indeed, 
 Mr. Joshua Prusol appear to have any real practical knowledge. 
 
 It was a little family joke against him, poor fellow, 
 tliat lie was " discliarged " from this country paper. 
 His " honorarium " was small, and he received it irre- 
 gularly. Desiring to supplement some drafts of mine, 
 on account of certain chemical apparatus which he had 
 bought, he wrote for the salary due to him. No reply.
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. 39 
 
 He wrote again. Then came his money and his dis- 
 missal. I noticed a flush, of anger upon h.is face for a 
 moment; it passed into a smile as he said, "I have 
 got my cheque and m}^ discharge ! Well, there is work 
 one can do for nothing, but not that sort of work." I 
 told him that small troubles of this kind were often 
 more irritating than great ones. " Little things will 
 never bother me," he said, putting his cheque into his 
 pocket and his letter into the jfire. " One hasn't time, 
 eh, pa ?" And I don't think the little concerns of life 
 ever did trouble him. As for time, he had none to 
 waste ; when he was not working, he was playing, and 
 he did both with all his might. 
 
 VI. 
 
 At about this period he wrote a series of some twenty 
 sketches of the careers and work of living men of 
 science for the Biograph. Among his letters are 
 pleasant epistles from several of the subjects of his 
 papers, all pointing to the fact that he took pains with 
 his work. He was not vague about dates, nor uncertain 
 in his figures ; he was very clear in his summaries of 
 scientific facts, and he had an educated appreciation, 
 and showed it unconsciously, of the labours he discussed 
 and described. If he had done nothing else besides 
 literary work at this time, he would have been entitled 
 to respect ; but these items of industry I am mention- 
 ing were accomplished in addition to his successful 
 studies and examinations at South Kensington and the 
 School of Mines. He contributed to Bradstreett (an 
 American journal of high repute) several articles of an 
 economic character, embracing such subjects as dye- 
 works, anihne dyes, glass making, and gold and silver.
 
 40 N^o7ik J)07yico. 
 
 Prior to the brief sensation created by the so-called 
 discovery of the manufacture of diamonds by Mr. 
 Hannay, he had written for his country paper an 
 interesting article on the chemical manufacture of 
 gems. During the year 1880 he made some interest- 
 ing experiments with Thames water, took samples of 
 the river at the point where the Princess Alice was 
 lost, and wrote an essay upon a drop of Thames 
 water. He followed it, from its birth, down the river 
 to London, and thence into the laboratory of the 
 chemist, treating the subject " popularly," but with 
 a fair balance of scientific information. I thought 
 so well of his paper that I offered it to a publisher, 
 beheving it would make a useful handbook. The 
 reply was that " we have a volume on the London 
 water-supply in hand, otherwise we should have been 
 very glad to undertake it." Frank then, on his own 
 account, submitted the MS. to a London journal. 
 *' Cut it down and we will accept it." He cut it down. 
 " More cutting " was the verdict. Then at last it was 
 accepted, and a liberal cheque was his reward. But it 
 was not published until he was in the midst of his 
 work in Borneo. There are two examples of these 
 youthful journalistic labours which I desire to reprint. 
 They are, " The Adventures of a Drop of Thames 
 Water," which appeared in the Whitehall Eevieiv, and 
 *'A Visit to Rothschild's and to the British Mint," 
 which appeared in Bradstreets, 
 
 THD ADYENTUEES OF A DEOP OF THAMES WATEE. 
 
 A SPARKLING aqueous crystal flashing in the sunlight, and reflecting 
 all the colours of the rainbow. Down it came through the pure air, 
 splashing at last into a pool among the roots of an oak in Gloucester- 
 shire. Here it made the acquaintance of innumerable other drops.
 
 Rcviinisceiiccs and Relics. 41 
 
 The short suinmer showers ceased, and then the sun burst through 
 the clouds and shed a flood of golden radiance over the quiet landscape. 
 Some drops rose at once into the air, and were borne away on the wings 
 of the wind. Others, less fortunate, were swallowed up by mother 
 earth ; the one whose career I propose to follow Avas among the latter. 
 
 After soaking tlirough the superficial soil it came upon a crevice in 
 the rock, down which it bounded, dashing from side to side, dissolving 
 and carrying away particles of rock, washing a fern, or starting a pebble 
 from some projecting ledge. Presently it came upon an underground 
 cavern, from the roof of which hung curiously formed stalactites, and 
 along the bottom rushed a noisy stream. Our drop ran down the 
 sides of one of the longest pendent masses, depositing in its course 
 most of the foreign materials collected above, and thus contributing 
 its little to the growth of the column. Soon falling off the stalactite 
 it was carried on, with a host of companion drops, by the gurgling 
 brook below. On a sudden there was a stoppage of the whole stream 
 by the pressure of the oncoming water up a narrow channel. Our 
 aqueous adventurer now ascended as fast as it had before descended. 
 A minute later and it was running along the course of a noisy rivulet. 
 
 AAvay it went between green banks, washing the long grasses and 
 the spreading burdock leaves. Dancing on in the sunlight, past 
 dozing cottages and sleeping homesteads, the stream receives recruits 
 from other rivulets and fountains, and soon fresh supplies pour in 
 from either side. In due time our drop has helped to turn a mill. 
 Kear Kemblc Meads it sails proudly under its first "bridge" — a 
 few rough stepping-stones thrown into the streamlet. Now, as it 
 approaches Lechlade, it encounters many fish. Still pure and limpid, 
 it passes on, collecting but little organic matter from the banks, and 
 that mainly of vegetable origin. Gradually the river widens : our 
 little drop is almost lost in the immense volume of flowing water. 
 But now its troubles begin. On the right of the river, about a foot 
 above the water, a large pipe pours a blue liquid into the Thames. 
 In the distance are tall chimneys, sending forth volumes of smoke 
 into the atmosphere. The first pollution ! Our drop dissolves some 
 quantity of the factory filth, and continues its course less buoyantly. 
 But soon it assists to wash sheep, and, loaded with some of their 
 dirt, it becomes turbid from the entrance on either side of the water 
 of drainage from manured land and the discharges of more fibre works. 
 These latter are filthy liquids, sometimes blue from colouring dyes, 
 sometimes brown from suspended rubbish. Sadly and slowly tlie 
 tiny drop continues its course down the now polluted river, until it
 
 42 N^orth Borneo. 
 
 comes in sight of the spires and towers of Oxford, that city of classic 
 renown, where they have still to learn the first principles of sanitary 
 science. For here the noble river, that anon came splashing through 
 flowery meads and pleasant pastures, is Aveighted with filth in- 
 describable. By the time the city of domes and towers is passed the 
 river contains 2450 parts of sewage contamination per 100,000 parts, 
 and the colour is greenish-yellow. Our globule flows on, increasing 
 in size and clogged with foreign matter. 
 
 Past lieading, Henley, Maidenhead, Staines, each place con- 
 tributing to the pollution of the stream, our drop is used with its 
 companions for bathing, for the washing of sheep and cattle. The river 
 bears on its surface the putrid carcases of cats, dogs, and rats. It 
 receives the foul discharges of hundreds of dye works, fibre works, 
 paper-mills, and the sewage of numbers of considerable towns and 
 villages. The entire flood is changed. It is here of a dark brown 
 colour, and it flows along sluggishly. This once pure stream now con- 
 veys the germs of disease and death. By this time our drop has 
 become the abode of myriads of animals. There are some with 
 wheels, whirlmg about, twisting, turning, and rushing ; some with 
 long swords stabbing and thrusting. Others there are like balls, 
 now contracting, now expanding ; some with red eyes flaming and 
 glaring, some with black, some with striped bodies, and some with 
 no bodies at all, and each one filled with the desire of eating as many 
 of its fellows up in as short a space of time as possible. There are 
 hundreds crowded together in this one drop of water, which has to 
 carry on not only all the dissolved and suspended filth collected above, 
 but also these countless inhabitants. Presently our drop passes 
 Windsor, catching a glimpse of the towers and turrets of the castle, 
 and receiving the discharges from the sewers of the royal palace. 
 The river is now wider and muddier. Steam launches dash along, 
 tearing up the surface and boiling it into considerable waves. The 
 fish have degenerated. They are now coarse and insipid. Pike have 
 almost disappeared, and the water is tenanted by sluggish roach, 
 coarse gudgeon, and flavourless perch, species which delight in polluted 
 M'aters and feed on the filth. Angling has degenerated with the fish. 
 The smart fisherman in knickerbockers, mackintosh, knapsack, antl 
 rod, is now unknown. He is replaced by the " professional angler." 
 He is a middle-aged man, sitting by the river watching two or three 
 rods lying near him, and holding another in his hand. I^ear him are 
 a coloured handkerchief containing half a loaf of bread, a jar of bran, 
 sundry onions, a knife, and a short pipe. From time to time barges
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. 43 
 
 interrupt his pleasures, and lie and the drivers exchange a series of 
 compliments, the fisherman calling the bargee's attention to the fact 
 that he will knock his (the driver's) sanguinary eyes out, the bargee 
 retorting by informing jnscator that he Avill throw his blank carcase 
 into the blank river. Here the argument generally ends, the driver 
 contenting himself with shouting back polite remarks to the angler 
 as long as he is in sight. The barges by no means improve the con- 
 dition of the river, as'the people on board cast all their refuse into the 
 stream, thus contributing to the pollution of our sad and weary globule. 
 
 " Where is the sewage to go, if not in the river 1 " is a question 
 which will be asked by many readers. The answer is that sewage water 
 may be made drinkable. Croydon and Norwood are supplied w4th 
 sewage water passed through a few feet of screened sand. As an 
 example of the efficiency of this process it may be stated that a 
 specimen of London sewage, before filtration through 15 feet of 
 sand, contained organic carbon 4"3S6, organic nitrogen 2"484:, and 
 ammonia 5 "557; after filtration these figures were reduced to organic 
 carbon 0-734, organic nitrogen 0"108, and ammonia 0"012 per 100,000 
 parts of the Avater. It wall be seen from this that the organic carbon 
 and nitrogen, which include the germs of disease and other living 
 organisms found in sewage, have been greatly reduced. If the stratum 
 of sand had been thicker, the condition of the Avater would have 
 been even better, and much of the organic and harmful impurities 
 Avould have been converted into inorganic and innoxious matters. 
 Chalk is a still better filtering medium. A specimen of the same 
 sewage as above had its three important impurities still further reduced 
 by filtration through fifteen feet of chalk. The figures were : organic 
 carbon 0'582, organic nitrogen 0092, ammonia 0'016. 
 
 Not only does this method of purification apply to seAvage, but also 
 to the refuse liquids from industrial processes, which could be thus 
 materially improved before ejection into the river. It is true that, 
 in the case of some toAvns on the Tliames, processes for the purifi- 
 cation of scAvage are in use, but the standards of purity are too Avide 
 and are not enforced with sufficient vigour. We left our drop passing 
 Windsor; it Avas in a sad plight, and progressing slowly. Now 
 clouds gather. ^ Rain-falls splash into the stream. The Thames rises 
 gradually Avith the downpour. Ail day and all night it rains one 
 unceasing torrent of drops. Miniature Avaterfalls run in from the 
 meadows, bringing doAvn all kinds of refuse — manure, soil, bits of 
 straw, paper, and other debris. Soon the river overflows its banks ; 
 but still it rains Avithout cessation. The stream becomes muckier
 
 44 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 than ever, owing to the stirring up of the mud at the bottom of tlie 
 river. Our aqueous voyager passes Chertsey, Shepperton, Kingston. 
 All is wrapped in silence here. The boathouses are closed. Not a 
 soul to be seen. The smoke ascends slowly from the chimneys into 
 the moisture-saturated atmosphere, and then hangs over the houses 
 like a pall. All the windows are shut ; there is no sign of life, for 
 the people are sitting round their fires, trying to forget the weather 
 outside. Slowly our drop approaches Teddington, and here it has a 
 narrow escape of being pumped up into the tanks of the metropolitan 
 companies. The river is in flood, and our drop sees millions of its 
 dirty confreres gulped up by the suction pumps. They carry with 
 them an enormous amount of the suspended and dissolved filth 
 collected during the cour.se of pollution Avhich I have described. 
 
 Of the quality of the water delivered to London by the various 
 companies, that of the West Middlesex is the best of those drawing 
 from the Thames, The Grand Junction comes next. This latter 
 water contains on an average "231 organic carbon, "032 organic 
 nitrogen, and '001 ammonia. The other companies' waters vary in 
 purity, but even the efficient filtration to which all the companies submit 
 their waters cannot remove all the noxious constituents, and no one 
 ought to be asked to drink water which has been contaminated, no 
 matter how slightly, with animal matter or excreta. 
 
 The drop of Thames water whose adventures I am chronicling, 
 having escaped the pumping-stations of the great companies, is now 
 quickly approaching London. It is in a very bad state, and is swollen 
 very much. Who could say what it did not contain ] Animalculae 
 in abundance still peopled it ; organic matter in quantity, both dis- 
 solved and suspended, Avas in it. It contained nitrates of potash, 
 ammonia, soda, and other salts. It had nitrates of the same bases, 
 also free ammonia and common salt in comparative plenty, besides 
 salts of lime, magnesia, and so on. 
 
 Past stately Eichmond and Kew, and now on to Hammersmith, 
 the number of dead animals floating on the stream had increased 
 tremendously. Our drop was caught for a time in a quiet pool, and 
 it watched its companions sailing past Avith their numerous passengers. 
 Now a bit of straAV floated by, curling and twisting in the eddies. 
 Then a fragment of an old play-bill, recording some performance long 
 forgotten and erased. Anon a scrap of wood, a bit of stick, or a piece 
 of coloured rag passed our drop, and noAV the putrid body of a cat in 
 a revoltingly decayed condition. Then a dog in a similar state floated 
 past, the remnant of a filthy rope dangling from its decomposed and
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. 45 
 
 skeleton neck. "Weighted with new and still more terrible matter, both 
 alive and dead, the crystal drop that fell from the clouds to refresh the 
 thirsty earth and minister to the health and happiness of man struggles, 
 a messenger of disease and death. It is in sight of London. 
 
 The progress of the drop of Thames water to Westminster was 
 slow and monotonous. Xow it wended its way with the sluggish 
 current and the ebb tide ; now it was left high up on the bank at low 
 water, when the river bared itself, showing the masses of accumulated 
 filth which composed its bed. To the right and left, in front and 
 behind, as far as the eye could see, stretched thousands of houses, 
 streets, buildings, museums, schools, offices, churches, shops, and 
 gin palaces, with the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey 
 in the foregTound. "Wliat a beautiful city ! A city of embankments, 
 promenades, and fine buildings, a city of noble bridges and splendid 
 architecture ! One by one the lights glimmered from myriads of 
 windows, shops, and lamps, as night lowered her mantle over the vast 
 metropolis. On a sudden there is a blaze of light from the Embank- 
 ments. It seemed as if day had changed its mind and come back 
 again. A stately Needle stood up in relief against the bright back- 
 ground, giving to the scene an almost Oriental appearance. The 
 waves on the river were tinted with silver, and the eddies about the 
 bridges looked like pools of molten metal. Our idealized globule 
 admired the people who could thus create an artificial sun at will — ad- 
 mired them, in spite of their ignorance of sanitary laws and their waste 
 of that great fertilizing power which they fling into their noble river. 
 
 Daylight found our traveller past the Tower. Ships and hay-boats 
 lay moored at the city wharves' walls. The sailors were getting ready to 
 begin their course down with the tide. The sun got up and blazed out, 
 parching the lips of the boatmen and festering every noisome carcase 
 which floated on the river. It burnt the heads and eyes of the dock- 
 hands toiling at their arduous tasks, and it sent Mayfair home to its 
 ice and its sunshades. Many of the companions of our aqueous 
 voyager soared aloft, reclaimed by the sun, each one leaving its debris 
 behind to its fellow globules. Our drop wished to be taken up 
 also, but it sailed along in the shade of the buildings, which 
 prevented its evaporation. Soon the tide ran out, and our drop was 
 caught in the mud-bank and was left by the stream. It watched the 
 river uncovering itself, and it surveyed the stuff accumulated on the 
 banks. Here was an old coal-pan half-covered with mud, there a 
 kettle of ancient date. Now a boy tlirows a basket of rubbish on 
 the 1)ank, such rubbish as vegetable leaves, cabbage stalks, a dead rat,
 
 46 North Borneo. 
 
 cinders, an old tin pot, an empty sardine box, potted-lobster tins, 
 dirty paper, and such like odds and ends, which slowly sank into the 
 mud, there to await the returning tide. Presently a cart of filth is 
 discharged upon the bank ; it contains a miscellaneous assortment 
 of rubbish collected from all sorts of sewers, gutters, and corners. As 
 the sun shone down upon it, gases of all descriptions rose from the 
 awful heap. Sulphuretted hydrogen was the least offensive. There 
 lay our drop, in company with a dead dog and a sardine tin. It 
 watched the flies deposit their eggs on the body of the putrid animal, 
 and the larvse come to life under the favourable beams of the sun. 
 Soon the skin and the flesh were swarming with white grubs, crawl- 
 ing about and devouring the animal in question, an operation the 
 further contemplation of which our drop was spared by the new tide. 
 Gradually the dead dog was covered with water, and then it rose to 
 the surface, surrounded by bubbles of gas and floating larvae.^ 
 
 London is noAV left behind, and Rotherhithe, Greenwich, and Erith 
 passed. Great ships, majestic ocean steamers, sail up to the docks, 
 bearing the wondering foreigner to the greatest city in the world. 
 The scene from Erith to Woolwich and Gravesend was, to our drop, 
 terrible. To the right and left the enormous filth-ducts of the 
 metropolis were pouring forth day and night their torrents of liquid 
 into the Thames. The previous pollutions of the river were as 
 nothing compared to this vast contamination ; Oxford, Heading, 
 Windsor, nothing in comparison to the pollution of London. The 
 river was fast becoming an open sewer, and our heaven-bom traveller 
 asked itself whether it was water at all, or only a patch of moist 
 mud and filth. Even animalcula; had been getting scarce, and fish 
 had long since disappeared. The shore's mud, the bed of the river 
 
 2 Among Frank's memoranda of work done in the laboratories at 
 Kensington I find the following : — Analysis of Thames Water where 
 the " Princess Alice " went down. Results of analysis expressed in parts 
 per 100,000. Sample taken from just below Beckton Gas Works. 
 Total solid matter, 105 "56; organic carbon, 6-08; ammonia, TO; 
 nitrogen as nitrates and nitrites, ; total combined nitrogen, 2-016 ; 
 previous sewage or animal contamination, 0; chlorine, 27 20; hard- 
 ness, temporary, 17-14, permanent, 18-58 — total, 35-72. Remarks. — 
 Foetid odour ; very turbid ; fearfully polluted ; little better than 
 sewage ; the sewage contamination is present, and not previous ; no 
 poisonous metals. Then there is a note for " Results of Microscopic 
 Examination," but without any entries.
 
 Renmiiscerices and Relics. 47 
 
 filth, all was foul and horrible. Now our drop passed the spot where 
 the Princess Alice went down. This was the worst place on the 
 river — one might say the most polluted. The adcumiilated filth of 
 four millions of people had been shot into the stream, that stream 
 which already carried the refuse of considerable townships, villages, 
 works, and factories. The scene was pleasant enough, in spite of the 
 river, and the people on board the ill-fated vessel were most likely 
 enjoying the bright prospect of the country. There is a peculiarly 
 horrible feature in this catastrophe, which was not sufficiently dwelt 
 upon. It was not alone the water that drowned the victims of the 
 collision ; they were choked by the filth. One mouthful of the 
 Thames at that spot is enough to poison any one. It killed the strong 
 swimmer. A little of the water bubbled into his mouth, and then, 
 sick and fainting from the nauseous matter he has swallowed, he 
 sank. This was the fate of many victims of the Princess Alice 
 catastrophe. The newspapers called attention to the horrible fact. 
 There was an inquiry instituted, which ended, as most of these com- 
 missions do end — in nothing. There is much ado and writing of Blue 
 Books, much money is spent and orders are given, and Avhen the 
 report is bound and put on the shelf, the work of her ]\Iajesty's 
 Government is too often considered at an end. For an example of 
 this I may say that some seven years ago a Eivers' Pollution Com- 
 mission summed up the Thames in the following words : — "We, there- 
 fore, recommend that the Thames be, as early as possible, abandoned 
 as a source of water for domestic use, and that the sanction of her 
 Majesty's Government be in future withheld from all schemes in- 
 volving the expenditure of more capital for the supply of Thames 
 water to London." This Avas written seven years ago, and yet nothing 
 has been done. The Thames has not been abandoned as a source 
 of potable water, nor is there any likelihood of its being given up. 
 Fever and cholera have already more than once been brought to 
 London by the Thames. ^Moreover, it is terrible to think that in 
 these days of " light and leading," one cannot drink a glass of water 
 without the fear of being poisoned by sewage. Cannot something be 
 done meanwhile to help those scientists who are anxious to rescue 
 the foreign matter now poured into the Thames for the fertilization 
 of the land 1 The late Government were on the right tack when they 
 decidftl to l)uy up the water companies. The public will consent to 
 lie poisoned Ijy a private company, but when it becomes a Government 
 (jucstion, they will not be so complaisant. The local pailiaments of 
 till' chief provincial cities have bought up their water comi)ani('S ;
 
 48 N'orth Borneo. 
 
 wliy slioiiM London lag behind the enterprise of country boards of 
 health ? 
 
 We left our heavily-weighted voyager off Picklow's Point. It had 
 now become so crowded with loathsome matters as to make one turn 
 sick to think of it. The once pure globule was floating sadly along, 
 when a boat rowed out from the shore. In it were two persons, a 
 gentleman and a Thames boatman — a calm, self-possessed man. The 
 scientist threw into the water a Winchester quart bottle, attached to 
 a cord. Our little limpid traveller floated into the vessel, with a 
 crowd of its dirty companions. The scientist pulled forth the bottle, 
 Avhen it had filled, and labelled it thus : — " Specimen collected from 
 the spot where the Princess Alice went down." The much-tried 
 globule was carried in its prison-house to the laboratory of the chemist, 
 where in due course it was evaporated, released from the parasites and 
 debris that had clogged it, and permitted to return to the clouds from 
 which it had originally fallen, as pure and bright as nature made our 
 great river, the Thames, and as pure and bright as science can 
 maintain it, if science be permitted to do so. When will London 
 arouse herself to the awful significance of this true narrative of the 
 adventures of a drop of Thames water? Is the subject to degenerate 
 into a party question among politicians ? Or shall we wait until some 
 new and terrible form of epidemic falls upon the great multitudes who 
 populate the banks of the river 1 We can solve foreign problems ; we 
 can regulate the Turk ; we can preside over the watery fortunes of the 
 Nile and the Ganges ; let not our posterity have the right to curse us 
 that, though we illuminated its banks with electric lamps, we were 
 content to have our great and glorious river converted into nothing 
 better than a common sewer. 
 
 The second article is selected from among several 
 which appeared in Bradstreets. It is dated January 
 15th, 1882:— 
 
 A VISIT TO EOTHSCHILD'S AND TO THE BEITISH 
 
 MINT. 
 
 London, January 5th. — From outside, neither the Royal Mint nor 
 Rothschild's refinery present an imposing appearance. A street, 
 reminding one of the back slums of Calais, with quaint French signs, 
 French shops, and French people, leads up to a pair of large and 
 decayed wooden doors, the entrance to the works of Baron Rothschild. 
 An old man, with sabots on his feet, opens the door and ushers the
 
 Re77tiniscences and Relics. 49 
 
 visitor into the presence of the director, a stout, genial-looking 
 Frenchman, who bows a great deal, and talks a great deal more. 
 Kothschild's employes belong to " the gay nation " on the other side 
 of the English Chaiuiel. I had the privilege of being shown over the 
 large and interesting establishment of the world's greatest financiers a 
 few days ago, and the following is a resume of the processes in use at 
 Eothschild's for purifying gold and silver : — 
 
 The gold as delivered is very impure. It contains large quantities 
 of silver, copper, iron, and other metals. The first operation consists 
 in melting the crude metal in a large clay crucible. By this means a 
 partial separation of copper is effected. The copper is oxidized, and, 
 rising to the surface of the molten metal, is skimmed by means of a 
 ladle. When as much copper as possible has been thus removed, the 
 molten alloy of silver and gold, still containing a little copper, is ladled 
 out and granulated by being poured into cold water. The granula- 
 tion is to give an increased surface for the action of the acid in the 
 subsequent operation. This granulated metal is then treated with 
 nitric or sulphuric acid, according to the method adopted in the 
 parting. Messrs. Eothschild use the latter process, which is generally 
 adopted in France, Germany, and Austria, because it is much more 
 economical than the nitric acid method. The sulphuric acid process 
 can be applied with success to the refining of silver containing only 
 0*0005 per cent, of gold ; but the metal for treatment requires to be 
 alloyed with a somewhat larger proportion of silver than is required in 
 the treatment of nitric acid. When the metal has been granulated as 
 described above, it is introduced into large leaden digesters, with 
 about two and one-half times its weight of concentrated sulphuric 
 acid, and it is very necessary to maintain the acid in excess in order 
 to retain the argentic sulphate, formed during the action, in solution. 
 The temperature is then raised to boiling, during which operation 
 volumes of sulphurous anhydride are evolved with the conversion of 
 the silver and copper into argentic and cupric sulphates respectively. 
 The chemical action continues from three to four hours, and the mass 
 is kept constantly stirred with a wooden pole in order to expose fresh 
 surfaces of metal to the action of the acid. The acid liquid is then 
 run off, and a small quantity of stronger acid added to the residue of 
 finely divided gold wliich is left in the bottom of the digester. Tlie 
 gold is thereupon boiled up again, so as to insure tlie complete separa- 
 tion of the sulphate of silver. In Messrs. Rothschild's works two 
 products are thus obtained ; namely, finely divided, but almost pure 
 gold, and a solution containing argentic and cupric sulphates. The 
 
 E
 
 50 North Borneo. 
 
 gold, after most careful washing, is boiled in a platinum vessel for a 
 short time, with a further proportion of concentrated sulphuric acid, 
 after which the washing is repeated, and the gold is dried, melted, 
 and cast into bars. The melting was performed iu " Piccardic pots," 
 and my friend. Professor Eoberts, of the Eoyal !Mint and Eoyal 
 School of Mines, pointed this out as remarkable, as the fusion of 
 gold is now, as a rule, performed iu the best and strongest plumbago 
 crucibles, it being very risky to fuse gold in a clay pot. 
 
 The acid liquors containing argentic and cupric sulphates are next 
 treated for the recovery of the silver. The liquid contained in a 
 vessel lined with lead is diluted, and then heated by the passage of 
 steam from a boiler through perforated leaden pipes into the solution. 
 The sulphate of silver dissolves in the boiling water, and is pre- 
 cipitated therefrom by the introduction of scrap copper, the reduction 
 being continued until the solution ceases to give a white, " curdy " 
 precipitate upon the addition of a solution of salt. The solution of 
 cupric sulphate is run off by a syphon to the crystallizing tanks, and 
 the finely divided precipitated silver is washed and afterwards com- 
 pressed into cakes with a hydraulic press, which is also used for the 
 expulsion of water. The cakes, after drying, are melted in " Piccardic 
 pots " and cast into bars. All these operations, except the fusions, 
 are conducted in one large room, and during the whole of the boilings 
 with sulphuric acid large quantities of sulphurous and sulphuric 
 anhydrides, together with volatilized sulphuric acid, are given off. No 
 attempt whatever is made to condense the fumes, and the workmen 
 engaged are exposed all day to the deleterious gases and vapours. 
 There is not even a good draught to carry away the fumes into the 
 air, in spite of a very tall chimney which is constantly pouring forth 
 clouds of black smoke and contributing an important quota to the fogs 
 of the metropolis. AMien Messrs. Eotuschild's neighbours complain, 
 the millionaire proprietors silence them with the present of a bar oi 
 silver or gold, according to the importance of the complainant. 
 
 From this scene of precious metal and bad vapours, I passed on to 
 the crystallizing tanks, situated in large vaults underground. Here 
 the crystallization of the sulphate of copper goes on. Gas jets threw 
 light on great walls of blue, tanks of blue ; and innumerable facets of 
 blue crystals flashed back the illumination with singularly beautiful 
 effect. Monte Cristo's cavern could hardly have appeared at first 
 blush more strangely impressive. Some of the crystals were eight, 
 and even ten, inches long, and of a most perfect form. There were 
 several tons of sulphate of copper stored in the drying-room, and I
 
 Rejniiiiscences and Relics. 51 
 
 asked the director what market he had for suoh vast quantities of 
 an article which, to me, seemed of so little use. " Pour les marchands 
 de 'pickles,' " he said, smiling. 
 
 Messrs. Eothschild's works, it is said, only just pay their expenses 
 as a refinery. I am told they are only carried on as a purely financial 
 matter, in order to enable the owners to flood the markets of Hamburg, 
 Paris, Berlin, or other of the important commercial centres of Europe, 
 with a million of money at almost a moment's notice. A large quantity 
 of the pure gold and silver produced is, however, sent into the Royal 
 Mint, which is situated almost next door to Eothschilds. . Having 
 taken leave of the courteous director of Rothschilds, I proceeded, 
 under the guardianship of the well-known Professor Roberts, F.R.S., 
 to her Majesty's Mint. Here I saw the chlorine system of parting 
 gold and silver. This process obviates the expensive necessity for 
 alloying the gold with two or three times its weight of silver, for no 
 other purpose than to insure success in the process of parting. The 
 gold containing silver is melted in a plumbago crucible, fitted with a 
 lid with an aperture to receive a clay pipe connected by tubing with 
 an apparatus for generating chlorine gas. The clay pipe is passed to 
 the bottom of the melted mass of gold, the surface of the latter being 
 covered with a layer of borax, which thus acts as a condenser and 
 prevents the loss of metal by volatilization. The chlorine, as it passes 
 tlirough the molt-n metal, is at first quickly absorbed, attended by the 
 conversion of the traces of arsenic, antimony, bismuth, lead, &c., into 
 their respective chlorides. The silver present is also converted into 
 chloride, and, rising to the surface, forms a layer of fused argentic 
 chloride. The first stage of the operation is marked by the escape 
 of white vapours, consisting of chlorides of the baser metals, and 
 after a while orange- coloured vapours begin to appear, indicating 
 that the process is complete. The crucible is then withdrawn, and 
 the gold allowed to set, when the still fluid argentic chloride is 
 poured out into a flat mould (a si ib of suitable form) for its subse- 
 quent reduction by iron and diluted acid — sometimes by carbonate 
 of soda. The gold is cast into ingots suitable for rolling for sovereigns. 
 
 The day I visited the Mint they were making nothing but shillings ; 
 thi'^, however, is a typical process, and a description of it will be prac- 
 tically a description of the coining of all the other pieces. The alloy 
 of silver and copper and a trace of unremoved gold is melted in a 
 plumbago crucible capable of holding 200 ounces. By a suitable 
 mechanism of cranes and levers, the pot is lifted bodily from the fur- 
 nace and its contents poured into a row of ingot moulds fixed on a 
 
 B 2
 
 52 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 truck ninning vmder the crucible. The bars of silver are then cut to 
 suitable lengths and rolled to the required thickness of the coin in 
 rollers worked by machinery. The rough ends are again cut ofiF, and 
 two portions of the size of a shilling are taken from each strip of metal 
 and sent forward for assay. Until these results are finished, the strip 
 cannot be sent on, and if the assay is not satisfactory, the metal is 
 remelted. The strips of metal, about a yard and a half long, if con- 
 taining the proper percentage, are conveyed on wooden trucks to the 
 cutting-room. Here discs of metal of the size of a shilling are cut out 
 of each strip at the rate of 500 a minute, and two machines were at 
 this work when I was there. The waste from the cutting of the circu- 
 lar discs is sent back to the melting-pot, and the discs are transferred 
 to a machine to give them the edge. Any discs which have sus- 
 tained injury while passing through the various machines are picked out 
 and sent back to the melting-pot. The machines which give the edge 
 to the coin turn out at the rate of 800 a minute. On emerging from 
 these machines, the metal is very brittle and requires annealing. The 
 discs are therefore placed in pots and heated in an annealing furnace for 
 about an hour. They are then taken out and thrown into sawdust, from 
 which they are separated by sieves. Here they are afterwards packed 
 on trucks and sent to the stamping-room, where they are stamped 
 and milled in eight machines, whichgtum out thirty shillings a minute. 
 Again packed on trucks, the coins are transferred to the weighing- 
 rooms. Balances worked by steam and fed by a long hopper weigh 
 the shillings at thirty per minute. After weighing, they drop down 
 a glass tube and into a box provided with three compartments — one 
 for coins that are too heavy, the centre one for medium, or proper 
 weight, coins, and one for those which are too light in weight. Ac- 
 cording to their weight they fall into one or other of these three com- 
 partments, and are thus separated. The heavy and light coins are 
 returned to the melting pot, and the medium ones are sent to the 
 Bank of England. 
 
 The assaying of the samples of metal is performed in a small 
 laboratory in another portion of the building. Gas muffles are used 
 for the cupolations, and seventy-four cupels are put in one furnace at 
 once. The methods of cleaning the buttons and hammering before 
 weighing are both peculiar to the Mint, and Professor Roberts, in 
 drawing my attention to these details, said, "It is upon such 
 matters as these that success and failure depend." 
 
 It will be especially interesting to my readers to be reminded, in 
 connection with this semi-technical sketch of refining and coining in
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. 53 
 
 England, that in some parts of the United States the method of part- 
 ing gold by nitric acid is still in use, notably at the San Francisco 
 mint. There, the properties of gold being first determined by assay, 
 one part of gold is made up, and two parts of granulated silver are 
 added. The metal is then transferred to earthen receptacles capable 
 of holding 130 pounds in each jar. Nitric acid of thirty degrees' 
 strength is added, and the jars are placed in hot water to facilitate the 
 action. When the action of the acid is at an end, the jars are filled 
 up with Avater, and the weak solution of argentic nitrate formed is run 
 off from the subsided gold. The finely divided gold is washed in a 
 filter several times. It still contains silver, in order to remove which 
 it is boiled with concentrated sulphuric acid, two pounds of acid being 
 added for every pound of gold. The sulphate of silver is removed, and 
 the gold, after repeated washing, is dried. The solutions of nitrate of 
 silver are precipitated with common salt, and the argentic chloride 
 formed is reduced with zinc. The purity of the resulting metal is 
 about 991 per 1000 for the gold, and 998 per 1000 for the silver. In 
 England the nitric acid parting method has almost entirely been super- 
 seded by the chlorine process, which, there is no doubt, is more econo- 
 mical and more effective than any other acid methods, whether sulpliuric 
 or nitric acids. Parting by acids is never complete ; the gold always 
 contains traces of silver, and the silver always traces of gold ; more 
 complete separation is undoubtedly obtained by the chlorine process. 
 Only one firm in England still uses the nitric acid process. In 
 America the process is used by a few firms which have a ready market 
 for the gold in the finely divided state furnished by the nitric acid 
 method, and it is for this reason, of course, that it is employed. 
 
 VII. 
 
 On a Thursday niglit (March 3rcl, 1881), two years 
 to the day prior to receiving the telegraphic news of 
 his death, I sat in the midst of a great throng of 
 scientific men in the theatre of the Chemical Society at 
 Burlington House, to hear Frank read two papers before 
 the Society, under the presidency of Professor H. E. 
 Roscoe. The subjects were : (1) " Ou the Action of 
 Bacteria on Various Gases," and (2) " On the Influence 
 of Intermittent Filtration through Sand and Spongy
 
 54 North Borneo. 
 
 Iron on Animal and Vegetable Matters dissolved in 
 Water, and the Reduction of Nitrates by Sewage and 
 other Agents." The papers were the result of investiga- 
 tions which the author had conducted over a period of 
 several months in competition for a prize of 50/., offered 
 by Professor Franklaud, and the Associateship of the 
 Institute of Chemistry. Professor Roscoe introduced 
 the young lecturer in a few pleasant words, noticing 
 the elaborate diagrams which Mr. Hatton had prepared 
 for the complete illustration of his subjects. The 
 platform was decorated with many, to me, mysterious 
 charts, to which the lecturer drew attention with a wand 
 as he proceeded to explain his experiments. Com- 
 mencing a little nervously, he speedily regained his 
 customary self-possession. He spoke clearly and well, 
 and was complimented by all who took part in the dis- 
 cussion that followed. The papers, which are printed in 
 the transactions of the Chemical Society, are so techni- 
 cal that it will be sufficient, I think, to give a sum- 
 mary of them and some remarks thereon from the report 
 of the meeting which I find in the Chemical News. 
 
 The President called on Mr. F. Hatton to read a 
 paper " On the Action of Bacteria on Various Gases." 
 The experiments were made to ascertain the nature of 
 the action exerted by various germs on the life and 
 increase of bacteria, and to observe what influence the 
 bacteria had on the percentage composition of the gases. 
 The bacteria were obtained by shaking fresh meat with 
 distilled water. The aqueous extract was filtered and 
 exposed to the air for twenty-four to thirty-six hours ; 
 it was always found to be full of bacteria. A small 
 flask was half filled with mercury, filled up with the 
 bacteria solution, and inverted in a mercury trough.
 
 Re7niniscences and Relics. 55 
 
 The gas under examination was then passed up, a small 
 glass vessel was introduced under the mouth of the 
 flask, and the whole removed from the trough. The 
 liquid was examined daily as to the condition of the 
 bacteria, the sample^ being removed by a piece of 
 bent glass tubing having an india-rubber joint. After 
 about a week the gas was pumped out by means of a 
 Sprengel, and analyzed. Atmospheric air was first 
 tried. The bacteria lived well during the fifteen days 
 of the experiment (T. 15° to 22°). A large absorption 
 of oxygen took place, but it was not replaced by 
 carbouic anhydride; in a second experiment (T. 25° to 
 26"5°), 20 per cent, of oxygen disappeared, and only 
 17 per cent, of CO2 were formed. Pure hydrogen after 
 fourteen days had no action on the bacteria ; the gas 
 contained 0*34 percent. CO2, 9894 per cent. H. Pure 
 oxygen after ten days was converted into CO2 29*98 
 per cent., 7002 per cent. A mixture of CO 46*94 
 per cent., CO2 1*27, 1-27, N 5051, was next tried 
 after fourteen days ; the gas contained CO2 17*77, CO 
 0-55, H 7-58, CH, 2*50, N 71-57. In all of the above 
 cases the bacteria flourished well. Cyanogen was next 
 tried. The solution of meat turned gradually to a 
 thick black fluid. On the fifth day very few bacteria 
 could be seen. Prom this time, however, they 
 increased, and on the twelfth day were comparatively 
 numerous. On the fifteenth day the gas was analyzed ; 
 it contained CN 5*35, CO2 5759, 224, N 3479 ; a 
 second experiment gave similar results. It appears, 
 therefore, that cyanogen is fatal to bacteria as loug as 
 it exists as such, but that it soon decomposes into 
 ammonic oxalate, &c., and that the bacteria then 
 reyive, especially in sunlight. Sulphurous anhydride
 
 56 North Borneo. 
 
 was next tried ; the bacteria lived during the fifteen 
 days; the gas contained CO2 7-87, O'OO, N 2-13, 
 SO2 90"10. Similar results were obtained with ni- 
 trogen, nitrous oxide, nitric oxide, carbonic' anhydride, 
 a mixture of H and obtained by the electrolysis of 
 water, and coal gas ; in all cases the bacteria lived 
 well during the experiment. The author next experi- 
 mented with a solution of urea (098 per cent.) and 
 phosphate of potash (0*4 per cent.), sowing it with 
 bacteria. The bacteria lived well during the fourteen 
 days of the experiment ; small quantities of gas were 
 evolved containing 0'53 per cent. CO2, 2*64 per cent, 0, 
 and 96'82 percent. N. An experiment was made with 
 spongy iron, air, and bacteria. On the fourth day, 
 all the bacteria had vanished; the air was analyzed on 
 the fifth day, and consisted of CO2 0*26, 0"00, and 
 N 99 '74 per cent. Experiments were also made with 
 acetylene, salicylic acid, strychnine (10, per cent.), 
 morphine, narcotine, and brucine ; none of these sub- 
 stances had any effect on the bacteria. On the other 
 hand, phenol, spongy iron, alcohol, and potassium per- 
 manganate were very destructive to these microscopic 
 growths. 
 
 Dr. Frankland expressed his satisfaction with the 
 results obtained by the lecturer in his laborious re- 
 search. He confessed that they had surprised him 
 not a little. The fact that bacteria, which were real 
 organisms and could not be shielded under the term 
 putrefaction, lived and flourished in SO2, CO, ON, &c., 
 seemed to him very extraordinary, and the question 
 arose whether the germs to which infectious diseases 
 were probably due were not similarly endowed with a 
 power of great resistance to ordinary influences. Mr.
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. 57 
 
 F. J. M. Page said that Dr. Baxter had proved that 
 with some fever-producing liquids, their virulence was 
 destroyed by chlorine and sulphurous acid, and that he 
 had seen some experiments at the Brown Institution 
 which led to the same conclusion ; so it seemed that 
 at all events in some cases, the virulence of infective 
 liquids was due to organic matter, essentially different 
 from the bacteria observed by Mr. Hatton. 
 
 Mr. Hatton then read a second communication " On 
 the Influence of Intermittent Filtration through Sand 
 and Spongy Iron on Animal and Vegetable Matters 
 dissolved in Water, and the Reduction of Nitrates by 
 Sewage, &c." Filtration through sand : — A 14-feet 
 verticle glass tube, three and a half inches in diameter, 
 was filled with sand. The water was passed through 
 at the rate of four litres per day. Experiments were 
 first made with peaty water diluted with its own 
 volume of distilled water. The organic carbon de- 
 creased 1*527 parts per 100,000, whereas the organic 
 nitrogen was but little affected. The addition of a 
 nitrifying material, in the shape of 5 c.c. of stale urine 
 added to four litres of water, did not promote the 
 oxidation of the organic nitrogen of the peat during 
 filtration. A filtered infusion of rape cake was sub- 
 stituted for the peaty water, and similar results were 
 obtained. Some experiments were then given as to the 
 effect of sewage in promoting the reduction of nitrates. 
 A 5 per cent, solution of clear fresh sewage containing 
 no nitrates was added to a solution containing 00853 
 grm. of nitre. The mixture was shaken in a large 
 stoppered bottle, and estimations of the nitric nitrogen 
 made from time to time. For a time the nitric nitrogen 
 steadily diminished, until, in fact, the sewage itself
 
 58 No7'-th Borjieo. 
 
 began to nitrify, and then the amount increased. At 
 low temperatures the sewage does not seem to nitrify. 
 It was found that when a solution containing nitrates 
 and sewage was allowed to stand in contact with air, 
 the oxygen in the dissolved air increased 4*5 percent., 
 while that in the air above the liquid decreased 5 per 
 cent. In sixteen days the N as nitrates and nitrites 
 decreased from 0-406 part per 100,000 to 0-075. 
 Thick sewage was much more active than clear sewage. 
 Spongy iron, when shaken up with a solution of nitre, 
 converts the nitrogen into ammonia and free nitrogeu. 
 Filtration through spongy iron rapidly reduces the 
 nitric nitrogen, converting it for the most part into 
 ammonia. Filtration of peat solution and solution of 
 Qg^ albumen through spongy iron rapidly removed 
 both the organic nitrogen and organic carbon, no nitric 
 nitrogen being formed, all the nitrogen being reduced 
 to ammonia. In some cases the carbon seemed to give 
 rise to some marsh -gas. 
 
 Other papers were read on " E-iver Water " by Pro- 
 fessor Tidy, and in the discussion which followed. Dr. 
 Gilbert, Mr. Bischoff, Mr. Hawksley, C.E., Mr. King- 
 zett, Dr. F. J. M. Page, Mr. W. M. Hamlet, and others 
 took part. The President commended highly the 
 patient and useful research- of Mr. Hatton, and Pro- 
 fessor Frankland, replying to some points of Professor 
 Tidy's paper contending for purification by flow, said 
 he hoped that Professor Tidy would, having heard Mr. 
 Hatton's paper, no longer believe in the destruction 
 of bacteria by a cold bath in the Thames ; " when they 
 withstood the action of cyanogen .and sulphurous acid, 
 it was difficult to see why they should commit suicide 
 by bursting their envelopes by endosmosis." Dr. Gil-
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. 59" 
 
 bert followed in the same direction, protesting against 
 the tendency of Professor Tidy's paper, which under- 
 estimated the dano;er of water contaminated with sew- 
 age. The President emphasized the lasting importance of 
 Mr. Hatton's investigations ; and, in reply, Professor 
 Tidy modified the impression the meeting had received 
 from his remarks, and confessed in strong terms that 
 he was a water purist, and " had not the least doubt that 
 sewaoje ouo^ht not to be discharo^ed into the Thames." 
 
 I remember that when Frank came home he gave 
 us an amusing illustration of Dr. Tidy's oratorical 
 manner — not ill-naturedly, as he had great respect for 
 the Professor. When making an emphatic point Dr. 
 Tidy has a peculiar action of his right arm, and 
 seems as if he thumped his back with his fist. Poor 
 Frank imitated this oddity of manner, to the great 
 amusement of the family and a couple of scientific 
 friends, adding, however, " I think Dr. Tidy knew he 
 was wrong, and only argued for the sake of arguing. 
 Of course he knows that no amount of flow in our 
 rivers will get rid of bacteria ; peaty matter will dis- 
 appear, but the oxidation of germs is a different thing. 
 He knows that well enough ; but he wanted to have 
 a controversy with Dr. Frankland, and, considering 
 what a bad case he had, he conducted it splendidly." 
 
 Among the letters upon this subject I find one from 
 Dr. Henry E. Armstrong, the Secretary of the Chemical 
 Society, which I venture to quote : — " The first part of 
 your paper, which is obviously the main portion of 
 your research, will, I imagine, not give rise to discus- 
 sion. You have established a large number of facts, 
 and your descriptions of them will doubtless be received 
 with great interest." After the papers had been read,
 
 6o North Borneo, 
 
 Mr. H. "Watts, editor of the Chemical Society^ s Journal, 
 writes : " I am instructed by tlie Publication Commit- 
 tee of the Chemical Society to inform you that they 
 regard your papers on the action of bacteria on gases 
 and the oxidation of organic matter by filtration, &c., 
 as very important contributions to our knowledge of 
 these matters, and well worthy of publication in the 
 Society's journal." 
 
 viir. 
 
 I returned from America in July, to find Frank nearly 
 at the close of his arrangements for leaving England. 
 It seemed only the day before that he was playing with 
 toy-guns, exploding " drawing-room " fireworks, illu- 
 minating the garden with magnesium wire, manufac- 
 turing miniature lightning, and building wooden forts 
 to be taken by tin soldiers. And now he was experi- 
 menting with electric exploders for mining, taking 
 observations of the sun, testing sextants, discussing 
 chronometers, trying rifles, and making occasional 
 excursions into iron and coal mines in the midland 
 counties. It was a constant surprise to me to contem- 
 plate the business-like way in which he conducted his 
 affairs, the calmness with which he made his arrange- 
 ments. If he had been an experienced pioneer, or an 
 established scientific expert, he could not have tackled 
 his work more methodically. " And I shall soon be 
 back," he would say to his mother in the midst of it 
 all. " Two years — what is it ? Of course it will seem 
 long to you, but to me, you know, my dear, it will be 
 nothing at all. When you went to America with father 
 it seemed an eternity. The time drags when you are 
 waiting and in one spot ; but when one is travelling,
 
 Reminiscences and Relics. 6i 
 
 and amidst new scenes, and has absorbing work, the 
 days are not long enough." 
 
 It was settled that Dr. Walker, a clever young Scotch 
 surgeon, who had been appointed to the chief medical 
 post under the new government, should be his travel- 
 ling companion. This reconciled us all very much to 
 the situation. If he were ill he would have a friendly 
 adviser at his elbow. Dr. Walker came and dined 
 with us at a little farewell dinner. Dr. Hodgkinson, 
 (Frank's principal tutor and friend in the chemical 
 laboratories at South Kensington) and Mr. William M. 
 Crocker, assistant managing director of the British 
 North Borneo Company, were of the party. We all 
 tried to be very merry. ... It became Dr. Walker's 
 duty in his new occupation to receive and examine the 
 dead body of his friend ; while poor Mr. Crocker had to 
 bring us the bitter news of our loss. Is it the instinct 
 of fear or love that makes women feel the approach of 
 misfortune ? It was ten o'clock one never-to-be-forgot- 
 ten night in the spring of 1883 that Mr. Crocker came to 
 us on his terrible mission. We had been talking over 
 Frank's return, and the way in which we would cele- 
 brate it. " We will keep our silver wedding," I said. 
 " And you shall have on that day," said an American 
 guest, " a silver brick from the Berkshire mine ! " 
 We did not " keep our silver wedding ;" we never 
 shall. The moment my wife saw Mr. Crocker's face 
 she said, " Something is the matter with Frank ! " 
 *' Calm yourself," he said gently. ... I find my pen 
 continually drifting in this direction. ... I fear there 
 is no other method of telling his story except in this 
 fragmentary way. There is no other for me ; and I 
 am inclined to think the friendly reader may not object
 
 62 North Borneo. 
 
 to it. If one adopted the strictest literary method, 
 there is no discipline of mind or pen strict enough to 
 shut out the continual intrusion of the supreme motive 
 of the record itself. The denouement is continually 
 before me. How shall I prevent the shadow of it fall- 
 ing right across my work ?
 
 III. 
 
 A BUNDLE OF LETTERS AND THE MASSACRE 
 OF WITTL 
 
 On the way — Sharks and divers — Ceylon and Singapore — Bungalow 
 life at Labuan — Social amenities — Witti — In Borneo — Expedi- 
 tions in the interior — Tropical floods — " Impossible to go on ; 
 impossible to go back" — Letters from home — An eventful day — 
 Head hunting — To Kinaram for a little rest — Food and dress — 
 Missionary work — Romantic scenery — The perils of travel — 
 Assassination of Witti and an exploring party — Sketch of "Witti's 
 career — Thoughts of home — Last letters. 
 
 I. 
 
 Letters came to us from Paris, Marseilles, and other 
 cities en route. But they began to be most interesting 
 from the time that Frank arrived at Singapore. From 
 Marseilles, on the 20th of August, 1881, he wrote : " I 
 had a splendid day in Paris. We got in at about six in 
 the morning. At twelve o'clock I was going for a 
 walk, and the first people I met were all the Farwells, 
 of Chicago. I took them to the Louvre. Then we 
 went up the column in the Place Vendome ; and after 
 that, shopping, of course. . . I have been down to the 
 vessel. She is rather fine. The steward seems inclined 
 to be a beast, and I wish we had gone out by the 
 P. and 0. I don't care to be sailincr under the French
 
 64 North Borneo. 
 
 flag. Dr. W is a very agreeable fellow. Beautiful 
 
 fruit and flowers at Marseilles. . . . You are quite 
 mistaken in thinking that going away will make me no 
 longer care for home. It is a good thing to go away, 
 so as to learn the value of such a home as I have." 
 
 " Off Naples," he wrote, *' steaming along the blue 
 waters of the Mediterranean is very pleasant. As 
 regards eating, this French vessel is a floatiag palace- 
 hotel. The passengers are, however, rather slow. 
 Please send me by first post, care of Johnston, Sin- 
 gapore, the portrait of Miss , which I don't know 
 
 how I came to leave behind. My stateroom is a 
 fine one, and I have the port-hole continually open. 
 We have lots of meals ! First, a table-d'hote break- 
 fast at nine ; then a fruit luncheon at twelve ; a 
 table-d'hote dinner at six ; a tea at eight, and a 
 ' snack ' at ten. Send me the cartridges I ordered. 
 The sea is lovely, the weather not too hot. Mamma 
 must never be anxious about me. I am perfectly well, 
 and if I am ever ill I shall let you know." 
 
 " When we left the Red Sea," he writes off 
 Ceylon, " the weather became much cooler. I went 
 on shore at Aden, and drove over to the tanks. The 
 natives say the tanks were constructed about a.d. 
 1100. Only three that I saw contained water. Aden 
 is not a nice place. There is no sign of vegetation, 
 and it is very hot and bare. There were a lot of 
 African boys in their native * dug-outs ' round the 
 steamer, diving for money all day, in spite of sharks. 
 I did not see the sharks myself — and, in fact, the only 
 ' wonder of the deep ' that I have seen at present is 
 the flying fish. I think the stories of travellers are 
 often very much coloured.
 
 A Bundle of Letters and the Massacre of Witti. 65 
 
 " We left Aden on Saturday, and it takes nine days 
 from there to Ceylon. Tlie worst of tlie journey is 
 now over. The second day from Aden was very rough. 
 I was sick one day, and seedy the next, but on the 
 third I was all right. I have at last got my ' sea legs 
 on,' and now I don't mind how much the ship pitches. 
 There are one or two good fellows on board, whom I 
 have made friends with. I would not go by Messa- 
 geries Maritimes again. One gets so tired of table- 
 d'bote living day after day. Table-d'hote breakfast, 
 table-d'hote dinner, and so on. Rupees are now the 
 coms we always use. I won six rupees to-day on the 
 run of the steamer. The highest run we have made 
 as yet was 338 miles ; but the usual run is 280 
 to 305. When about five . days from Aden the 
 engine had to be repaired, so we stopped fifteen 
 hours for that, and only Avent one mile an hour under 
 sail, 
 
 " Life on board an ocean steamer is very monotonous, 
 and there is but little news to send you. The ship is 
 pitching a good deal just now, which makes it rather 
 a difficult thing to write. 
 
 " I feel sure I shall come back safe and well to you, 
 as I mean to take great care of myself, run no risks, 
 and do nothing but work. The more I see of the 
 world, the less I feel inclined to indulge in any of its 
 so-called pleasures ; for the greatest pleasure possible 
 for me will be to come back to you. Fine sunsets, 
 but the weather is as a rule very cloudy, and a good 
 deal like the weather at home. It has rained once 
 since I started, for about five minutes. 
 
 " I went down to the luggage-room about a week 
 ago and got out your portraits. I now have half an 
 
 p
 
 66 North Borneo. 
 
 hour's talk to you all every day, and it is such a 
 pleasure to look at you." 
 
 II. 
 
 " Arrived here safe and well at nine o'clock yester- 
 day," he wrote from Singapore, the 17th of September, 
 1881. " Do 3^ou think a chapter on my voyage out, 
 with short sketches of Naples, Port Said, Aden, 
 Galles, and Singapore would be any use ? It would do 
 to begin my book with, at any rate.^ 
 
 *' 1 went on shore at Ceylon and had a drive about 
 the country. Cocoanut palms were growing every- 
 
 1 In a memorandum-book that eventually oame home in his boxes I 
 find some rough memoranda for his book, in diary form. The follow- 
 ing are a few of these notes intended for use in a chapter on the voyage 
 out : — P&i't Said, August 28 : Intense heat ; engage boats ; fellow 
 spoke English ; landed ; Seyd Ali offered his services. Seyd was 
 dressed in a purple robe reaching to his feet. Eather handsome. He 
 wore a Turkish fez and first-rate English boating boots. His charge 
 was one shilling an hour. Seyd : " Will de gentlemen go post office? " 
 " Xo, take us to the Arab town." A walk of about fifteen minutes 
 along the sandy streets of Port Said. The Rue de Commerce, quite 
 destitute of vehicles, brought us to the Arab to'wn. Visit the Mosque, 
 which smells terribly. Then Avalk up the back streets of the Arab 
 town. People lying at their doors, too lazy to brush away a fly from 
 their faces. Arrive at the market-place. Feast day. Swings with 
 three Arab girls ; very picturesque in yellowhead-dresses. Men selling 
 melons. Carrying water in pig-skins. Walk back. Turkish soldiers. 
 Visit the Cafe Chantant. Palpable force of assumed gaiety. Female 
 band of scowling women. The gambling, rouge et noir. Mem. — En- 
 large on the assumed air of gaiety, the selling of indecent photos, &c. 
 — Suez Canal, August 28 : 104° in the shade. Old Egyptian reeds. 
 Immense banks of sand. Blue jeUy-fish. Ismalia — green desert city. 
 Beautiful flowers — asters. Sci-ub on the banks. Water, yellow to 
 bright green. Temperature while going on second day— cabin, 103°; 
 under the awnings, 110°; and 50° C. in sun. The ship. The com- 
 missaire, a curious burlesque Frenchman. " Ah ! I do not know ; you 
 must ask the Agent des Postes ; it is not in my department." The
 
 A Dimdle of Let lev s and tJie Massacre of Witti. 67 
 
 ^^■llere, each tree being loaded with, fruit. Bananas, 
 nutmegs, and pine-apples grow by the roadside. The 
 country is very charming and very damp, as the 
 rainy season is now at its worst. In Singapore, how- 
 ever, the weather is very good. It rained yesterday a 
 little and cooled the air. The temperature is about 
 80° to 82° in the shade during the day, sinking to 75° 
 in early morning and midnight. Mr. Read lives about 
 two miles out of Singapore, and his house is surrounded 
 by tropical gardens full of tree-ferns, palms, bamboos, 
 travellers' trees, as under : — 
 
 /if 
 
 V 
 
 CA^^i -t4Jl^ t^<- 
 
 " It is not a first-rate garden, either. The great 
 drawback is the grass, which is very coarse. Singa- 
 pore is the nicest town I have seen yet. 
 
 " All the people have gone to Borneo — the engineer, 
 
 Captain : " Ah, ze piano (P. nml ().) is very bad." Gcnoral : " But 
 suit'ly there cannot he two pianos?" Captain: "All, no, ze 
 
 F 2
 
 68 North Borneo. 
 
 the Governor, &c. Our ship is due on the 20th, and we 
 shall start about the 21st or 22nd." 
 
 On the 27th of Saptember he tells us he has 
 ensfaofed his native servant and starts for Borneo on 
 the morrow. " Yesterday the fort fired minute guns 
 (fifty) for poor President Garfield, and all the flags in 
 the harbour and at the consulates were half-mast. I 
 was very sorry to hear of his death. My best love to 
 all our American friends. 
 
 " The affectation and petty snobisra of certain 
 ' swells ' here is ridiculous. A friend of mine, whom 
 
 1 met on the steamer, a barrister, Mr. , when 
 
 making his calls, passed the house of a lady whom he 
 had to call upon, but he dared not go in because he was 
 
 on his way to Lady , who would take it as a 
 
 deadly insult, if any one was called upon before her. 
 Mr. Alabaster, a pleasant fellow whom I met on the 
 steamer (private legal adviser to the King of Siam), 
 invited me to Bangkok, in Siam, when I am on my way 
 home, to spend a week with him." ^ 
 
 PIANO. Ah, yes ; not ze P. and Oh ! " Cannot land at Suez. Two 
 Frenchmen kissmg. Frenchman — " Ah, mon cher cousin ! " in a fearful 
 state of perspiration. A reniarkahle sunset — a few clouds collect in the 
 evening, tinted with gold as sun goes down behind a distant range of 
 rugged purple hills — foreground in green scrub ; the banks are lined 
 with old Egyptian reeds — curious after-glow — wonderful water tints of 
 purple and red, with purple-tinted sky above. Ten minutes later the 
 moon appears — after the sunset very bright. . . . French officials 
 very bumptious. Pass nothing but British ships, except one Prussian 
 corvette. French sailor : " Ah, la, la, il y a tant de vraies Anglais ! 
 "English sheep!" — The other pages of the little book contain 
 memoranda on methods of skinning squirrels and preserving birds' 
 skins, notes of experiments in tropical photography, &c. 
 
 2 "We last week announced the death of Mr. Henry Alabaster, private 
 ■ secretary to the King of Siam. Some of our readers will be interested
 
 A Bundle of Letters ana the Massac7'e of Witti. 69 
 
 III. 
 
 LaJntan, Borneo, via Singa^jore, Oct. 17 fh, 1881. 
 
 My dear Father, — I have got your two letters of Aug. 28th and 
 Sept. 8th. I get a chance of writing once a fortnight liere. 
 
 Our passage from Singapore to Labuan was not at all pleasant. The 
 Royalist is an abominable ship, and I was ill, but the journey was 
 soon over. I made friends witli the owner, INIr. Cowie, who lent 
 nie his pony at Labuan. When we arrived here, Lempriere, the 
 seciotary, and Cook, the treasurer, who stay at Labuan, were out 
 w^ihl boar shooting. But we went up to the Company's bungalow, 
 where I am now staying. I had orders to remain in Labuan until 
 the arrival of the Governor, who is away at Sandakan. AValkcr was 
 to go on to Sandakan, so I left him on board the Roijalid. I 
 landed all my things, including my chemicals, camping outfit, and 
 everything I have got. Cook and Lempriere were very kind. I 
 called on the Governor of Labuan, who invited Walker, Cook, and 
 myself to dine Avith him at Government House. A very good dinner, 
 and we played billiards till two o'clock in the morning, which out 
 here is very late. I played nearly everything I know on the piano, and 
 made great friends with the Governor. I have dined there once since 
 then, to meet Mr. de Crespigny (who called on me the next day), from 
 Sarawak (in his ship), and also Father Jackson, and Mr. Everett, of 
 Sarawak, who is very nice, and is staying up with me at tlie Com- 
 pany's bungalow. 
 
 The other day Lempriere, Everett (of Sarawak), and I went up to 
 Coal Point — a famous i)lace in Labuan — to shoot. There is a deserted 
 coal-mine there, upon which thousands of pounds have been spent ; 
 and jungle is now growing all over most valuable machines, rail- 
 ways, and other gear ; it is a very melancholy thing to see. I will send 
 you some photographs of it in my next letter. I am writing a sketch 
 
 to leam that he was a friend of the late Frank Hatton, the young 
 scientist who lost his life in Borneo. IMr. Hatton had arranged to 
 visit Siam, on Mr. Alabaster's invitation, and had obtained special 
 letters of recommendation to the King for that purpose. It is a 
 pathetic coincidence that a box of floral wreaths sent out to be laitl 
 u})ori Hatton's grave in the little jungle cemetery at Elopura, Borneo, 
 was delivered by mistake at Bangkok, Siam, where his young friend 
 Mr. Alabaster had died." — Court Chriilor, Xoveniber 29, 1884.
 
 JO North Borneo. 
 
 which I will post by next mail, entitled " Bungalow Life in Lubuan." 
 This life is very pleasant as regards sea-bathing, shooting, riding, and 
 eating. But the mosquitoes are awful, especially just now ; they are 
 biting very badly. There are few bud creatures on the island, except 
 pythons, some wild boars, some green and other harmless snakes, 
 and centipedes, but one somehow thinks nothing of these things out 
 here. The temperature is nsually 80°, but sometimes sinks to 71° 
 or 72° after rain. 
 
 When we were at Coal Point, we met the Papar boat, just come 
 from the Company's station on the Bornean coast at Papar, with the 
 Resident, Mr. Everett, brother to the Everett of Sarawak, on board. 
 There was an affectionate meeting, and the Resident came to stay with 
 us at the bungalow. He is a good fellow, and a fair geologist and 
 mineralogist. 
 
 I stay here till Mr. Treacher comes; he is expected about the 19th. 
 I shall ask him to let me, as you say, put my laboratory up here, and 
 make my headquarters here for the present, and I expect this will be 
 done. I shall probably go first to Abai, the nearest point to Kina 
 Balu. You may be quite sure I shall be prudent about expeditions, 
 &c., and that I shall run no unnecessary risks. 
 
 Ever your loving son, 
 
 Frank. 
 
 IV. 
 On the 17th of October, writing from Labuan, he tells 
 us he is enjoying his life at Labuan — bathing, shooting, 
 photographing, and overhauling his chemicals and 
 apparatus. A fortnight later he speaks of a pleasant 
 little gathering at Grovernor Leys' bungalow, and sends 
 his kind regards to a young American. " Tell him the 
 rifle-shot gun and revolvers have all been in play." 
 He adds, " I generally go about here in a pair of white 
 trousers, a flannel shirt, a waist-belt, a coloured hand- 
 kerchief, and a white helmet and shoes — quite a toff, 
 eh ? " Further on he says, " My two cockney phrases 
 from that farce at the Princess's, ' Ain't she a lady ? ' 
 ' Oh, she are, she are ! ' are getting acclimatized here. 
 The insects are awful. One could make quite an
 
 A Bimcile of Letters and the Alassacre of IVitti. 7 i 
 
 extensive entomological collection sitting in a room 
 with a lamp at night." 
 
 Victoria, Labuan, Borneo, Nov. 2iid, 18S1. 
 
 My dear Father, — It is decided that I am, for the present at least, 
 to have my laboratory here in Labuan. I wrote a letter to ]\Ir. Treacher, 
 when he landed, ori the subject, and he said yes, so that is arranged. 
 I shall go up the- coast by the next Royalist from Singapore ; that 
 will be about the 14th of November. I shall go up to Tampassuk to 
 Witti. I am getting on slowly with the language. 
 
 Yesterday there was a grand dinner party of all Labuan at Govern- 
 ment House, to meet Mr. and Mrs. Treacher on their return from 
 Sandakan. Here is a plan of the table and where we sat : — 
 
 Governor Leys. 
 
 Mrs. Treacher. 
 Mr. A. Hart Everett. 
 Mr. Frank Hatton. 
 Mr. Gueritz. 
 Mr. Coot. 
 
 Hon. Treacher. 
 Hon.Hamiltou. 
 Mr. Davies. 
 Mr. Lemi^riere. 
 Father Jackson. 
 
 Captain Harington. 
 
 ^fr. Gueritz is Captain Ross's agent for our only regular steamer, the 
 Cleator. ]\Ir. Cook is the Company's treasurer. Tlie Hon. A. Hamil- 
 ton is e.xecutive council, executive committee, police general-in-chief, 
 harbour-master, &c., of Labuan. !Mr. Davies is our new Resident, 
 going to Pa])ar in place of Mr. A. Hart Everett, who goes to Abai. 
 Mr. Lcmpriere, the Governor's secretary. Father Jackson, a Catholic 
 priest, come from Afghanistan to convert the natives, which he will 
 never do. 
 
 I recited " The Private of the P>uffs " at Government House after 
 dinner, and afterwards played upon the piano. 
 
 I will send home very shortly a sketch of " Malay Types," which I 
 hope will be of some good. I got soaking wet to-day — caught in the 
 jungle " on my pony " in the most awful thunder and rain storm I 
 ever heard or saw. Tlie rain came down in sheets, and being blown
 
 I - 
 
 North Borneo. 
 
 in my face from the sea by a fi'iglitful Avind — a tornado, in fact — I 
 thought I should have been blown away ; and the thunder was simply 
 fearful, the lightning blinding. 
 
 Your ever loving son, 
 
 Frank. 
 
 V. 
 
 On the 1st of November he writes in admiring terms 
 of Governor Leys, of Labuan, and sends a photograph of 
 him, " taken by myself, and a very bad one ; but when 
 I get my laboratory put up, I shall be able to take much 
 better ones." Then he refers to a short article he has 
 written on Labuan, which he fears is not good enough 
 for the Centurij. " Governor Treacher," he says, 
 " is very kind, and Mrs. Treacher charming. I enclose 
 some other photographs. Witti is not popular here, 
 or with anybody, but I shall judge for myself. I 
 am going to Tampassuk some time to see him. Could 
 you send me out some more water-colours, note-books, 
 insect-collecting boxes, -sticking-plaster, some tubes 
 of chloride of gold, porcelain ebonite trays, eau de 
 Coloo'ne, &c. ? ". 
 
 On the 14th of November he announces that he is 
 to "go to Witti and Everett at Abai. Witti, after our 
 consultation, then goes to Papar to explore. There 
 is a new Resident at Papar. Everett and I go up 
 the coast to the oil at Marudu Bay. The boring 
 machine has arrived in the Royalist from Singa- 
 pore, and, I think, my cartridges. Your two let- 
 ters, Oct. 6th and Sept. 27th, have also arrived. 
 Never think all the advice you can give me is 
 ever a bore. I am so glad to get letters. My two 
 months' expedition is organized. I have six men, and 
 more if necessary, and a practical English workman, 
 from Bath, who was in the employ of the Labuan Coal
 
 A Bundle of Lcttei's and the Massacre of Witti. 73 
 
 Company for some time. He is my aide-de-cai)ip. His 
 name is Smith." .... At a later date lie sends the 
 
 following sketch : — 
 
 ^ X 9k X X 6^; I ]' // ] 
 
 uiKi/u. </ «''»M. f( 
 
 /i/VKJ' 
 
 Kiulat, North Borneo, January 17 t/i, 1882. 
 !My dear Father, — My answers to your last letters you will get 
 after this, as they have gone to Sandakan by mistake. I have just 
 returned, or rather been driven back,, from an expedition up the 
 Bongon River, Marudu Bay. The rain was too much, and as the 
 whole country was flooded, further progress was impossible. ]\Iy 
 aidc-de-cami) is still searching for coal at Siquati, and I go on a long 
 expedition up into the interior next month. Don't be afraid about 
 me, my pistols carry consideralJc weight. The story of my expedition 
 u}) to Timbong Batu is rather interesting, especially the way I got 
 back. My party consisted of F. H. Abdul (my boy), whom I shall 
 perhaps bring home ; Fareich, Houssa, two Arab policemen ; Bilal, a 
 Suluman ; and Bablogan, a Bajow. After great difficulties we made 
 our way through the sopping wet jungle, sinking often above our 
 knees in mud and slush. "When we got to the Dusuns, at Timbong 
 Batu, the Bongon River was about thirty feet wide ; but here it 
 began to rain in torrents, and soon the stream was as many yards 
 wide and twenty or thirty feet deep, rushing along at ten to thirteen 
 miles an hour. Here I remained shut up four days ; rain all the 
 time without a moment's stop. I only got one hour to investigate 
 the river bed, and tlien all it yielded was quartz with pyrites, wliich 
 may be auriferous. Tligher up the stream, at Kaparkan, perhaps I
 
 74 North Borneo. 
 
 shall find metals. As things were looking serious at Timhong Batu, T 
 determined to make a rush for Bongon. We had three water buffaloes 
 with us, so, packing the things on these animals, we struggled tTirough 
 the pouring rain to Datu Omers, a place one-fourth the distance to 
 Bongon. Here I got a praliu, so I left Omers at ten o'clock in this 
 dug-out — myself, Abdul, Bablogan, and my guide Datu Mahomet, 
 leaving the other men to bring the buffaloes overland. The prahu 
 we got was small and leaky, and the wicked stream was rushing along 
 with tremendous force. We went down at nine or ten miles an hour. 
 One man was on the look-out all the time for floating wood and 
 overhanging trees, which we encountered every moment. Evidences 
 of the great floods were apparent all down the stream, and by-and-by 
 we came to a stop before the immense trees w^hich had fallen across 
 the river. Bamboos and driftwood had stuck there and formed an 
 effectual bar to our passage. The water was here, perhaps, thirty or 
 forty feet deep, and roaring along one vast rapid for miles. At one 
 place the river had overflowed its banks and rushed into the jungle, 
 thus getting rid of half the water which otherwise would have gone 
 on to Bongon. We first tried to cut our way through the barrier, 
 and while standing with precarious foothold on fallen trees, Avith the 
 water roaring underneath and the fear of crocodiles, the rain came on 
 again. Down it poured in torrents, and really matters looked serious. 
 Impossible to go on, equally impossible to go back, as we could not 
 have made a mile in a day against such a stream. What to do was 
 the question. We had no axe to cut our way through, and it was 
 Friday, and the \Wi, and do what I could, I could not help feeling a 
 little superstitious. Matters were now at their worst. Wet through, and 
 with thirty feet of roaring stream below the prahu, which itself was 
 leaky. On the right, dense jungle ; and on the left, tall, cutting grass 
 swamp. The right was the only chance — to drag the boat through the 
 tall grass, mud, and water, risking snakes and crocodiles. But four of 
 us, we found, were unable to pull the prahu. I^ow an unlooked-for help 
 came in the shape of three Sarawak men in a little boat, who, more 
 daring than their fellows, were coming down trading to Bongon. 
 With their help, after half an hour's stiff tugging, we got the prahu 
 past the obstacles ; the grass was tall, rank, and cutting like a knife. 
 We were now past the worst, but not out of danger— a sharp look- 
 out had to be kept, as the stream often threatened to hurl us under 
 some overhanging tree and sweep us into the torrent. However, we 
 arrived safe at Bongon at five o'clock, and there I learned that such 
 floods had not been experienced for ten years.
 
 A Dundlc of Lcttc7'S and the Massacre of IVitti. 75 
 
 Give my dearest love to mamma, Nellie, Bessie, and my kind 
 wishes to all my friends. / am afraid travel will make rue a 
 wanderer. 
 
 Your ever loving son, 
 
 Frank. 
 
 VI. 
 
 Next came several letters descriptive of bis earlier 
 expeditions, consisting chiefly of notes from Ms first 
 diary and extracts from his reports, which will be 
 found printed at length in Part II. of the present 
 work. These letters contained the previous and 
 accompanying rough pen-and-ink sketch. 
 
 " }io:ttmMi\ 
 
 On February 5th, 1882, he writes from Singapore. 
 We knew later that he had gone there to recruit after a 
 two months' expedition " up the coast" and an attack 
 of fever. He does not refer to this latter fact ; but 
 speaks of the expedition he is organizing "from Labuk 
 to Marudu," touching which he says he hopes shortly 
 *' to report something which will make me worthy the 
 title they give me here of ' scientific explorer.' " On
 
 76 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 the 16th he has returned to Labuan, and refers to the 
 sketch of that tiny colony which lie had written for 
 a magazine. " It is only a bit of first impressions, 
 and nothing like the report of my second expedition 
 which I have sent home to the Company. Don't be 
 too sure about rjreat mineral wealth in North Borneo. 
 It ought to bo there. Two or three months, I hope, 
 will show ; but, as you know, I am not over sanguine. 
 I am rather disappointed with Kurching, the capital 
 
 of Sarawak Yes, Borneo is 100,000 times 
 
 better for me than Guy's Hospital, to which I never 
 could have gone, and never will go now. 
 
 Kinaram, April 20th, 1882. 
 
 Dearest Father, — I have just got nearly through one of the 
 most arduous and difficult enterprises -which I hope it will be ever 
 my lot to undertake. I went to the Labuk Eiver in search of antimony 
 on March 3rd, having left Sandakan on March 1st. With the greatest 
 difficulties we got up the rivers, and our long journey overland was 
 an experience I shall never forget. I have got your nice letters in 
 reply to my first report on Seqiiati, and they cheered me more than 
 you can think ; I got them in Central Borneo from Smith, who had 
 gone back to the coast to fetch food. A description of one of our 
 most eventful days may interest you, so I will give it as written in 
 my diary. The result of my expedition is that from Labuk to 
 Kinaram, all through the following countries — Lomantic, Tandar Batu, 
 Kagibangan, Tampias, Tonaonona, Tampoular, Sogohtan, Daralai, 
 Bendonin, Senendan, Byag, iN^iaasane, Ghanaghana, Tuntone, Danao, 
 Koligan, Lasas, Yirtuo, Bundo, Moroli, Mumus, to Kinaram— there is 
 no trace of any mineral of commercial value. At Kinaram I am on the 
 track of the copper, which I shall, I hope, shortly discover. 
 
 We arrived at my men's camp from our short trip at 10.30. 
 Tlie place was well posted below a bend in the river, at the foot of a 
 hill 4000 feet high. Potatoes, kaladi, melons, cucumbers were now 
 plentiful, and my famished men got a feed of something more than 
 rice, for which they w^ere very thankful. The country here is very 
 mountainous, and as the river is restricted by high banks, the current 
 is tremendous ; and all the Dyaks, Sulus, &c., said I was very brave
 
 A Biuidle of Letters mid the Massacre of Witti. 77 
 
 to go v;p at all. .... The Dyaks here are true head-hunters ; and 
 only a few days ago a head was taken at a bridge over a torrent. 
 The man was Avalking over the felled tree, which in this country 
 always constitutes a bridge, when four men rushed on him, pushed 
 him down the steep bank, and, jumping down after him, took his 
 head off in a twinkling. I saw the victim's head and hand in a house 
 not far from the scene of the murder. The headman said himself 
 that three weeks ago seven heads had been taken from slaughtered 
 men of Tingara, with which country he, Sogolitan, was fighting. 
 The bodies of these men were thrown into the wood near us, and all 
 the men said that at night, when the wind blew from a certain quarter, 
 there was a fearful smell of dead animal matter 
 
 We nearly had a fight with these people next day. 
 
 I stand the climate in a most wonderful way ; poor Smith is knocked 
 tlown with fever when I am perfectly well. I think it is because it 
 is not my fate to have any ill-luck in Borneo. In five villages 
 where by certain rites I have been made a brother of the natives, at 
 my call 300 spears would come out. 
 
 Your dear letters, and mamma's, and Nellie's, are the only things 
 that I look forward to. Bessie writes to me now and then. I can 
 only write this one long letter now, as I have my hands full of work. 
 In about two months I go back to Labuan, and I shall take a rest of 
 a month or so. 
 
 Dearest love to mamma, Xellie, Bessie, and all my dear friends, 
 English and American. 
 
 Ever your most loving son, 
 
 Frank. 
 
 KmUt, May 18///, 1882. 
 My dearest Father, — I have come down from Kinoram for a little 
 rest. I have a little station there now, consisting of my house, the 
 men's house, and the guard-house, with a stockade all round them and a 
 flagstaff in the middle. I have had some very wonderful and in- 
 teresting experiences, some very happy and some very wretched days. 
 I have now two white men under me ir my department — Smith, whoni 
 I have sz-nt back to Siquati, and Beveridge, who is coming from Sanda- 
 kan loosing for me. I hope to find him near Kinaram Avhen I go up 
 tliis time. I can speak Malay, and I am quite at home with the 
 people. On our last journey, however, we nearly had several rows 
 with Dyaks, who knew absolutely nothing of the Company, and had 
 never seen a wliito man.
 
 78 ■ A^orth Borneo. 
 
 Your letters, with all their kind advice, are a great pleasure and 
 comfort to me, and many times I have received them when wet, tired, 
 and hungry in the jungle. 
 
 My best love to you, my own dear father. 
 
 From your loving 
 
 Frank. 
 
 VII. 
 
 In a letter to bis mother, June 26tli, written at 
 Labuan, lie says, " although I have been in the Bor- 
 nean jungle for three months, I don't smoke — only 
 once in a way a cigarette. When in the bush, my 
 dinner generally consists of American meat (when there 
 is any), a biscuit (cabin H. & P.), sweet potatoes, and 
 a pickle, the whole followed by a bottle of beer. 
 Sometimes we get a fowl; but to the Dusun fowl 
 Mark Twain's remark on carving, ' use a club, and 
 avoid the joints,' would very much apply." In another 
 letter he speaks of " brandy merely as a medicine," 
 and of the ''treat" afforded by some Swiss milk and 
 cocoatina which we had sent him. " My dress when 
 travelling," he says, " as a rule, is a thick brown can- 
 vas jacket and strong blue trousers, the ends turned 
 into my socks, tied round tightly with string, to pre- 
 vent leaches getting at me ; but they attack one, in 
 spite of all one can do. I wear strong canvas shoes 
 and a helmet, a waistbelt, and sometimes sword as well 
 as pistol. Behind me come my two followers, one 
 carrying my rifle and the other my shot-gun ; then 
 six natives with rifles and bayonets ; next two men 
 with picks, and in the rear the camp things and carriers. 
 But the camp things which I brought out are all 
 broken up. Nothing in heaven or earth can stand 
 the Bornean bush."
 
 A J3und/e of Letters and the Massacre of JVitti. 79 
 
 On the same date he writes to his sister Helen (a 
 student in the Royal Academy schools), " You had 
 
 KINA BULTJ, FKOM THE TAMPAbSUK EIVEB : TUE STEAM YACHT, " BOENEO," 
 
 AT ANCHOE. 
 V 
 
 better come out here and do some sketches for the 
 Graphic or Illustrated. There are hundreds of things 
 to do, and nobody to do them. All is new and every- 
 thing picturesque. Kina Bulu would make a splendid 
 subject for a big picture, while near my house in 
 Kiuoram there are some wonderful bits of hill and 
 river. There is one view from the outside of my 
 stockade which is simply lovely. The river is a rushing 
 torrent, and one can see up its course for miles riglit 
 away to the mountains, which tower up one above the 
 other away to Kina Bulu. The peaked one, like the 
 Matterhorn, which is 7000 feet, I ascended lately with
 
 8o 
 
 North Borneo. 
 
 M. le Comte de Montgelas, who had come to the 
 Kinoram to see me. We climbed within 100 feet of the 
 top and could get no further ; the thing was simply 
 a precipice. The getting up was ' horful.' The slope 
 was what you see in the diagrams. (See below !) Then 
 there were countless (very much countless) leeches and 
 other abominations, and nothing to eat, as it had been 
 forgotten (! !) by the horrid native policeman whom I 
 felt inclined to kick down the hill. When we o-ot 
 down the Dusuns wanted to collect a poll-tax — a water 
 jar — for being allowed to go up their hill. They nearly 
 collected something else." 
 
 On October ^7th, 1882, he writes to his youngest 
 sister, who at that time was at a convent school in the 
 Ardennes. She is troubled, it seems, in regard to the 
 religion she is to adopt, whether she should be a Pro- 
 testant or a Catholic. "I am sorry," he writes, *'to hear 
 you are so much struck with the beauties of ' Dominus 
 vobiscum,' &c. ; but you will soon get over that. Expe- 
 rience, experience — that is the only thing ; but when 
 obtained in Borneo, it is hardly obtained. There is 
 one fact which may interest you which came under my 
 notice a short time ago. There is a Catholic missionary
 
 f^^" 
 
 I// 'i ^■<^ 
 
 
 :^' N(<ii!£^;'/;??^^" 
 
 'i^^^-g^r" 
 
 ON THE KINOlfAM KIVEK. 
 
 From a hkctcb by Kiank Hatton. 
 
 To fsxcc pajjo 80.
 
 A Biindle of Letters and the Massacre of Witti. 8 1 
 
 out here in Sabah. He converted two Dyaks ; one 
 became a thief, the other a murderer. That mis- 
 sionary has not yet been eaten by savages ; but poor 
 Witti has been slaughtered by Muruts, and when it 
 comes to a question of practical value, of real use in a 
 savage country, all the priests of France and Belgium, 
 with all the bishops and cardinals of Italy and Spain, 
 and the Pope thrown in, with all their gear, and 
 their books, and their candles, and their relics, 
 could not equal the worth of poor Witti. ' But 
 no mattaire ! ' We will talk of this anon. There is very 
 little longer for me out here, and one night a cab will 
 drive up to the dear old gate at home, and out will 
 get a sallow, long. Oriental wreck, and the cabman 
 will say, ' Here's a hobjec' ! ' and you will say, ' Who 
 is this person ? ' 
 
 " Now, good-bye, dearest Bessie ; you know my 
 letter is only chaff." 
 
 Kudat, October 27th, 1882. 
 ^Iy dearest Xellie, — I have not written to you for no end of a 
 time, but I have not ■svritten to any one for an equally long time. I 
 have been away up in the mountains for nearly four months ; such 
 an awful country — so pretty from the coast ; but when you are there, 
 but for the trees, travel would be impossible — the slopes are so steep. 
 The scenes of torrents tearing over boulders with cliffs 500 or 600 
 feet high, rising in sheer precipices from the river-bed, are, however, 
 very grand ; and if they were in England, the whole place would be 
 dotted about with " Gibbs and Gibbesses." The rainy season is just 
 coming on, and when it rains here, it does rain simply in torrents. 
 Borneo is not a place to build one's country house in, or a place to live 
 in for pleasure. One " great philosopher " said, " The best thing to do 
 with it, would be to sink it under the sea ;" another said, " Borneo 1 
 Borneo 1 Borneo, sir, is a sandbank ! " These persons held extreme 
 views — but I will refrain from inflicting my adventures and opinions 
 upon you, as I shall have such a long time for that when I get home, 
 and now I do so wish the months would fly a little quicker. I can 
 
 a
 
 82 No7'th Borneo. 
 
 speak Malay and Dusun ; I am (now poor Witti has been murdered 
 by the savages) the only white man who can speak the latter language, 
 and therefore a very desirable person for an inland Resident, " though 
 Hi says it as shouldn't." I shall be quite content to carry your water- 
 colours — the oils are too heavy — about, and be an Oriental wreck for 
 six months after I come, for really I have had some very hard times 
 here, roughing it in a manner which I would defy even an African 
 explorer to put into the shade. But it is all experience. You see, 
 m}' writing has even become Oriental, i.e. shaky. 
 
 Ever your affectionate brother, 
 
 Frank. 
 
 Kudat, Odoher 28fh, 1882. 
 My dearest Father, — I have just returned from " the mountain 
 fastnesses " of Borneo, where copper exploring has occupied me for 
 more than three months. I will not give you a detailed account of 
 all my adventures and experiences, as it all appears in my Kinoram 
 report, Xo. 1, which will arrive at the same time as this letter, or 
 should do. I am quite well now, although I have had a very bad leg. 
 You need not tell mamma so. Your letters and papers have all 
 reached me, and give me more pleasure than I can tell you. The 
 ring I shall always wear for your sakes.* My thoughts of coming 
 home to you all, are thoughts of unalloyed pleasure, although 
 you will find me much altered, I expect; and I shall feel so 
 
 J 
 
 '^f 
 
 
 
 FEANK hatton's HOUSE. (From a Water-colour Drawing hy Himself.) 
 
 strange at first, and yet so happy. Do you think of coming to Mar- 
 seilles 1 I am not sure that I shall come home in a French ship : a 
 P. and 0. is a good ship as well. I am so glad to hear you say that 
 the Governor and the Company appreciate my services, although 
 hitherto so unsuccessful. The district being explored now, comprises 
 
 ^ A rino- sent to him in commemoration of his twenty-first birthday.
 
 A Bundle of Letters and the Massacre of JVitti. 8 
 
 v5 
 
 all the mountains contained in the spur from Kina Balu to Tumbo- 
 yonkon, including both these peaks. It will take us some time, and 
 it is an awful country. It may give us copper ; it has done so already 
 in small quantities. Enclosed is a picture of my house in Kinoram. 
 I can't draw, you know, or paint either — so much the worse, — but I 
 win do both when I get home. Ever your loving son, 
 
 Frank. 
 
 Kudat, October 28th, 1882. 
 
 My dearest Mother, — I have received all your nice letters, and 
 they give me, I cannot tell you how much pleasure. I have hardly 
 ten months more, and then hurrah for merry England ! Now, I am 
 going to tell you something which I did not teU papa, and I tell 
 you now because you will surely learn it from the papers, and I know 
 you are too strong-minded to get anxious about me ; I can take care 
 of myself. Poor Witti ! He was travelling in a Murut country, 
 and having slept in a native's house, left the place next morning 
 with his eleven men. They had a small native-made boat, in 
 which they were going down stream. They came to a shallow 
 place, where every one had to get out into the water and drag the 
 boat. The rifles and weapons were put in the prahu. Witti waded 
 ashore to make some notes. In the middle of all this they were 
 attacked by some hundreds of savages, who fell upon 'Witti and his 
 imfortunate men with spears, sumpitans, swords, &c. "VVitti, it is 
 ffdd, had a spear thrust right through his body ; and even after 
 receiving this awful wound, he turned and fired his revolver six times. 
 Four cartridges were damp and did not explode, with the other two 
 he killed two men. Of the rest of his followers, three escaped to 
 tell the sad tale, the others were killed or died in the bush. 
 
 Now, please don't get frightened at this, as I am in a different dis- 
 trict. I suppose papa has heard of it already ; if not, it is news, but 
 it is only my account. I am saving a little money, but it takes such 
 a long time to mount up. Just think, only a few months more, 
 and I shall be with you all again. I may go Ijack again to the East, if 
 there is nothing for me to do at home ; but I would rather stay witli 
 you, dearest nuimma, even if I had to put my bit of money into a 
 newspaper, and become a J — 1 — t; but no matter, a time will come, 
 as the walrus said, to talk of many things — of Borneo, and })ees'- 
 wax, and of many other things. 
 
 My dearest love to you. Your ever loving son, 
 
 Fl{.\SK.
 
 84 
 
 No7'th Borneo. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 It had fallen to my lot to tell tlie story of "Witti's 
 death in the London and New York press. The 
 cheerful accounts I had received from my son at about 
 the same period, if they relieved my anxiety on his 
 account, did not discount the sorrow I felt at the cala- 
 mity which had befallen Witti, for he was a familiar 
 and friendly person to me. I had read all his reports 
 
 SECTION OF STOCKADE SUEEOUNDIXG FEAyK HATTON 3 HOUSE. 
 
 {From Drawing hy Himself.) 
 
 •and letters to the Company ; I had studied his charac- 
 ter from many sides and much information ; I had had 
 reason to fear that he might be seriously hostile to my 
 son, and had in later days reason to feel confidence in 
 his friendly admiration of his young colleague ; and 
 the report of his death arrived just as I had mailed a 
 letter to Borneo, thanking him for his courteous treat- 
 ment of Frank, and inviting him to London whenever 
 he should take his next vacation. Poor Witti ! he 
 had few friends, it seems : but the few were staunch
 
 A Bundle of Letters and the Massacre of Witti. 85 
 
 and true, and even his enemies did not doubt his 
 courage. The story of his connection with Borneo, 
 and his hfe and death in the service of the new Govern- 
 ment of Sabah, are romantic. He was the only 
 foreigner connected with the Company. He wrote 
 and spoke Enghsh ahiiost perfectly, was an excellent 
 French and German scholar ; had mastered Malay and 
 the local dialects of Borneo ; and was essentially a 
 clever and dauntless explorer. 
 
 A few explanatory words are necessary to introduce 
 even the brief sketch which I am enabled to give of 
 the life and death of Mr. F. Witti, who appears to have 
 had neither friends nor home, that any one in England 
 or the East knew of, outside Borneo. 
 
 The grant of a royal charter to the British North 
 Borneo Company practically enabled that association 
 to annex the territories north of the Dutch under trea- 
 ties from the Sultans of Brunei and Sooloo. The first 
 idea of making this country a commercial enterprise 
 was American, which, apart from the intrinsic interest 
 attaching to so novel an undertaking, gives to British 
 North Borneo, or Sabah, a special interest for the 
 United States as well as England. Mr. F. Witti was 
 originally an officer in the Austrian navy. He was, I 
 believe, induced to go out to Borneo by Baron Over- 
 beck, who assisted in the transfer of certain American 
 rights to the English Company. Mr. Witti, an adven- 
 turous and enterprising traveller, after visiting the 
 country, came to London to seek official employment 
 in connection with the new powers. His services not 
 being welcomed as promptly as he expected, he dis- 
 appeared from London, and it was thought by the 
 Managing Director of the Company that he had sought
 
 86 Noi^t/i Borneo. 
 
 other occupation. It seems, however, that, fearing on 
 account of his nationahty he might not be endorsed by 
 this Enghsh Company, he went out to Borneo on his 
 own account. His appearance there was under some- 
 what romantic circumstances. Having had much 
 experience of the sea, he had " worked his passage," 
 and landed in Borneo as the mate of a coasting vesseh 
 He made his way to one of the principal residences, 
 and his services were at once secured. He was 
 appointed by the Resident to undertake certain geo- 
 graphical and other explorations, and his surveys 
 and reports were so well done that in course of time 
 the authorities in London gave him a settled and 
 definite appointment as an officer of the Company 
 authorized to conduct a series of expeditions of general 
 exploration. He penetrated into many districts of the 
 country never before visited, and one of the latest 
 maps of the new territory is chiefly the result of his 
 travels. During four or five years he had been 
 engaged in this special and interesting work. At 
 length he intimated to the Governor his intention of 
 investigating the country lying between Kimanis and 
 the Sibuco river, and it was on this journey that he 
 lost his life. During the progress of the expedition 
 Governor Treacher intercepted him by messengers with 
 a special despatch of recall, requesting him to postpone 
 his visit to the locality about the Sibuco and at once 
 to return to Kimanis, the nearest residency. I have 
 seen Mr. Witti's reply to the Governor ; the last letter 
 which was ever received from the unfortunate explorer. 
 He acknowledges the recall, and with all the courtesy 
 that he can command excuses himself for disobeying 
 it ; he refers to the importance of the work he has
 
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 A BiLiidlc of Letters and the Massacre of Witti. 87 
 
 undertaken, and hopes that its success may lead to 
 condonement of his breach of discipHne. His idea was 
 to complete the preliminary survey of British North 
 Borneo, or Sabah, which he would almost have accom- 
 plished by an investigation of the line of country 
 approaching the confines of the cession. 
 
 In the course of this letter he quotes from " The 
 New Ceylon " a passage in regard to the junction of a 
 river called the Kinabatangan with the Quamote, in 
 respect to which Mr. Pryer (the Resident at Sandakan) 
 says, " This is quite an unexplored river, owing to its 
 interior being in the hands of a fierce tribe, the Ting- 
 galums, who sometimes make a raid upon the Kinaba- 
 tangan."* Poor Witti quotes these words in his last 
 letter, and expresses his intention of entering this 
 country. Mr. Pryer suggested that a fort at the 
 junction of the rivers to keep the Tinggalums in check, 
 would, with a firm but friendly administration, soon 
 lead to the establishment of a thriving station, the 
 district being prolific of valuable tropical produce. 
 Witti in his letter dwells upon these points, and says 
 he has no reason to doubt that he will go through the 
 country safely, several of his men having been there 
 before. He pleads the importance of his trip and his 
 own earnestness as an excuse for going on, and thence- 
 forth, of course, is outside the Company's authority. 
 
 Six or eight weeks after the receipt of this letter 
 three natives, who had been of Witti' s party, returned 
 to Kimanis and reported his death under treacherous 
 and terrible circumstances, whether at the hands of 
 Tinggalums, Muruts, or head-hunting Dyaks seemed 
 to be a matter of doubt. These native attendants 
 
 * This locality is in the region of Frank Tlatton's latest exploration.
 
 88 Noi'th Borneo. 
 
 (mostly Malays) described the assassins as Muruts. I 
 am inclined to think they were the very Tinggalums 
 to whom Mr. Witti had referred in the letter just 
 quoted. Frank Hatton passed through several tribes 
 of Muruts much further to the north, and received 
 from them considerate and hospitable treatment. The 
 Muruts are nevertheless head-hunters. 
 
 r. WITTI. 
 
 (From a Photograph by Lamiert and Co., Singapore.) 
 
 "Witti had made a successful trip, and was evidently 
 on his way back to Kimanis. He had bought several 
 boats from the natives, and had paid them liberally 
 with cloth and the other articles of exchange ; and 
 he had evidently every confidence in the friendship 
 of the people. It is too common a habit of explorers 
 in savage countries to divide their parties for the con- 
 veniences of travel. Throughout the history of mar- 
 tyrdom in the cause of geographical and scientific 
 knowledge, it will invariably be found that explorers 
 have often come to grief when they have committed
 
 A Bundle of Letters and the Massacre of Witti. 89 
 
 the mistake of weakening their advance. Mr. Witti 
 had with him seventeen men. He delegated half of 
 them to go on with his boats to a certain point of the 
 river, he arranging to follow them later with the other 
 men. In the meantime he allowed his body-servant 
 to carry his Winchester rifle and the others to stray 
 about, while he sat down near the river with his des- 
 patch-box and papers for the purpose of making some 
 notes in his diary. While thus engaged, several armed 
 natives suddenly appeared from the jungle and an 
 ambush formed of rocks near the stream. Without 
 warning they sent a volley from their sumpitans at 
 Witti and the men nearest to him. The sumpitan is 
 a kind of blow-pipe through which a poisoned arrow 
 is deftly discharged, and I remember that in Witti's 
 first report to the Company he described this weapon 
 and thanked his stars that on his first expedition lie 
 had been called upon to use no antidote against it. 
 One of the arrows, it seems, pierced him in the breast, 
 and three or four of his men close by fell mortally 
 wounded. Witti seized his revolver, but the humidity 
 of the atmosphere or damp occasioned by fording 
 rivers appears to have interfered with its eflB.ciency. 
 Only two barrels were discharged, and tbese killed 
 two of the assailants ; the remainder rushed upon Mm, 
 one of them spearing him to death, the others des- 
 patching his men. Three of his party ran away at 
 the first attack and secreted themselves. They say 
 that the whole action was very quick, and that within 
 a few minutes the assassins cut off Witti'is head and 
 the legs and arms of the others, which they threw into 
 a prahu and then made off, some of them into the 
 jungle, others down stream. The three natives who
 
 go North Borneo. 
 
 had escaped then tried to find their way to Kimanis. 
 They wandered about in the jungle for several days 
 and nights, living chiefly on leaves, and finally found 
 their way to the residency, where their evidence was 
 taken. The account is very circumstantial, and though 
 natives do not always tell the truth, the Governor has 
 had no reason to modify these details. Before AVitti 
 left Kimanis he made a will and arranged for the 
 proper settlement of all his worldly affairs, evidently 
 impressed with the serious character of the work he 
 was voluntarily undertaking. 
 
 IX. 
 
 On December 3rd Frank writes from Singapore, " I 
 am down here until the 30th, when I return to Borneo. 
 I have had a touch of fever, which luckily I have now 
 quite got rid of : I think I stayed too long in Kino- 
 ram. See my last report ; I think it is the best I have 
 done ; it will tell you everything about my work. At 
 the Governor's request I am sending home a box of 
 specimens. On my return to Borneo I start on my 
 last exploration — up the Segama and all round Silam 
 and Sibokon — a country that is quite unexplored. And 
 the next time I am down here, I shall be en route for 
 England. ' Hurrah for merry England ! ' But a 
 thousand times hurrah for merry home. I don't 
 think, after all, I shall be very rich when I arrive. My 
 salary was not much. . . I speak Dusun now as well 
 as Malay, and am going to write down all the dialect 
 words in the language of N. Borneo, as many of each 
 as I can remember and collect for some printed forms 
 of the Asiatic Society which I am to have from the 
 Bishop of Singapore. . . I shall leave Borneo on
 
 A Bundle of Letters and the Massacre of IVitti. 91 
 
 the 1st of August, take the first French mail, and 
 arrive at Marseilles by the 15th of September ; on 
 the 18th, in the evening at 8 p.m., I shall be with you, 
 my dear — so expect me and order anything for dinner 
 except fowl ! " On the 9th he writes to me his last 
 letter but one. He says, — 
 
 Sinfjapore, December dth, 1882. 
 My dear Father, — I leave here on the 19th for Silam. Is it not 
 a nuisance t I cannot get your letters out of the Labuan bag ; about 
 six mails now will be waiting me in Borneo. I have just returned 
 from Joh.ore, and I think of going to Malacca next week. I am quite 
 well and happy again. I am afraid I wrote a miserable letter some 
 time ago, but please remember I had the fever badly and the " blues " 
 worse.* I would so like to feel sure, or not sure, that the directors 
 
 * This refers to the only sad letter he wrote to us. It was dated 
 Kudat, November 10. I had, in response to a letter in which he said 
 he was very happy, expressed a hope that he would not forget that we 
 at home could never be very happy without him. This reached him 
 when he was ill, and drew from him a bitter cry. He was down with 
 fever, and was badly hipped. *' I am not very old," he wrote, "but 
 during the last fifteen days I have been experiencing the feelings of an 
 octogenarian on the brink of the grave." He thought we had mis- 
 understood one of his most genial letters, and he for once did not spare 
 me nor himself. " I have had twenty days of wretchedness and agony 
 — ,so homesick that I have thought of throwing the whole business 
 up and coming home." If he only had ! If I had only received his 
 letter in time to act upon it. Accompanying it, and in the same 
 envelope, was another letter of the same date, on the eve of his starting 
 to Singapore on a few weeks' leave for the benefit of his health. The 
 other letter he wrote is " only to show you what I can do when I am 
 down with fever — take no notice of it, and don't show it to mamma. 
 Kudat is a wretched hole, and I was very ill and miserable. The 
 copper in Kinoram exists — I hunted it down, but only found it in 
 [wckets, and in no workable quantity. I shall come home by French 
 mail on the 12th or 13th of August next. I often think of getting 
 into the train at Dover, then away to London, then clatter and rattle 
 in a cab to Titchfield Terrace. . . . Now, good-bye, dear papa, my only 
 friend — and don't tliink anvtliin'' of that fever letter — and don't show
 
 92 North Borneo. 
 
 are satisfied with me and my work. If I am to get samples of wood, 
 gums, &c., for research, the Royal Society had better give me a grant. 
 Dr. Hodgkinson might perhaps see to this. I am now a member of the 
 Straits Eoyal Asiatic Society, and one of their agents in Borneo. I am 
 going to write them a paper on Sabah, but I think I had better consult 
 Mr. Treacher first. I went to an essential oil factory yesterday, and pro- 
 cured samples of citronella oil, lemon oil, nutmeg, patchoulli oils, &c. 
 Rather an interesting place. Please tell me in full what you think 
 of my last report. I think it is my best. I have yet Siquati to finish, 
 Kinoram Geological Report, with maps, &c. But, most of all, I want 
 to know if my work is approved of. Cowie is a good fellow. Did 
 you see Barclay Read % 
 
 I think I look a little " too utter " in my photo. Q,ue pensez-vous ? 
 I am collecting data, though slowly, for my book. Witti did not 
 take many arms, or pay much attention to the weapons which he did 
 take ; I do. In my book I shall write some things which do not 
 appear in my diary and reports. 
 
 Your most loving son, 
 
 Frank. 
 
 His last two letters are from Sandakan. He dis- 
 cusses the question of his position and the future. The 
 Company want him to take a holiday in the east, but 
 not to return home. They wish to extend his engage- 
 it to mamma, it will make her sad." I suppose there is nothing more 
 depressing than jungle fever. Attending this depression which 
 afflicted Frank at Kudat was the keen disappointment of the failure 
 of a great copper find. He had tracked the indications of the metal 
 over miles of country under serious difiiculties, and had literally 
 hunted it down to its source. It was at the time the one great hope 
 of the Company. Examples of copper, antimony, and gold had 
 previously in more than one instance been palmed upon their 
 explorers by natives and others ; but here was a genuine find. Frank 
 had followed it step by step from the place where it was found (far 
 away from its source) to its origin, to its first outcrop— and the result, 
 while it was in its way a scientific triumph, was not a financial 
 success. These two letters did not reach me until he had left Singa^ 
 pore on his last expedition, and on the day I received them satisfactory 
 and cheerful reports of him by telegraph and letter had been received 
 at the Company's offices in London.
 
 A Bundle of Letters and the Massacre of Witti. 93 
 
 raent, and the managing director suggests a resident- 
 ship, combined with scientific investigation.^ I feel 
 complimented by this expression of confidence in their 
 young official, but will listen to nothing so far as I am 
 concerned that does not first contemplate his return to 
 London for a personal and family consultation. The 
 photograph (referred to above) sent from Singapore, 
 taken just after his recovery from fever, emphasized 
 this resolve, to say nothing of his hardships, his 
 dangers, and the utter void his absence had made in 
 our little family circle. More than once I had gone 
 to the Company's offices in Old Broad Street, with the 
 intention of telegraphing to him, " Come home ! " But 
 fate would have it that I was always met there with 
 some cheering account of him, a compliment from the 
 Governor touching his work, or a pleasant record of 
 him from some traveller or official who had seen 
 him. When the news of poor Witti's death came, I 
 went up to the city with that old familiar message, 
 — " Come home ! " — in my mind ; but on that very 
 day despatches were received from the Covernor, 
 with satisfactory accounts of Mr. Frank Hatton, and 
 it would have seemed cowardly, I thought, in his sight 
 
 6 " He might," said the managing director to me, " take six months' 
 leave and visit Java ; the country would interest him in many ways, 
 its system of government, as you know, is unique. You referred to it 
 in * The New Ceylon.' " A few months later, and at about the time 
 Frank would, under this arrangement, have visited Java, came news of 
 the terrible earthquake there, the atomic dust of which is said to have 
 accounted for the wonderful sunsets — the blood-red after-glows — which 
 followed, and were noted throughout Europe and even in America. I 
 saw the snowy prairies beyond Chicago bathed in their ruddy light, 
 and in London I was told they literally seemed to set the Thames on 
 fire.
 
 94 
 
 N^orth Borneo. 
 
 to have requested his return at such a time. " More- 
 over," says one who knew him well, " your telegram 
 might not have reached him for months ; and if it had, 
 he would not have come. His engagement was for two 
 years, and nothing would have induced him to break it ; 
 besides, he liked his work, hard and dangerous as it was, 
 and he would have gone through with it, whatever 
 might have been the end of it." 
 
 THE QUAY, SANDAKAN (EVENING). 
 
 {Drawn by Helen A. Hatton. From a Photograph hy Mr. Hobson.) 
 
 In his last letter he said, " coal has been found in 
 Marudu, small quantities of copper in Tumboyonkon, 
 my laboratory goes up at Kudat I don't think 
 the Company can spare me. But I am coming home. 
 I want to see all your dear faces again, and have a 
 talk with my old friends in London. . . This is a 
 unique experience and position ; but is life worth living 
 so long away from you all ? No. . . I am just starting 
 on an expedition up the Segama — my last trip, and 
 when I have done this, I shall go inland no more."
 
 IV. 
 
 DISASTER AND DEATH. 
 
 Good news — Five days later; — Sad letters — " A bright, fearless, brave 
 life " — On the Segama River — Hunting in the jungle — The 
 fatal accident — A devoted following — -The silent passenger — 
 Tropical scenery — Bornean highlands and the mountains of 
 Pisgah — Inquest and verdict — A jungle cemetery — The pathetic 
 story told by Governor Treacher. 
 
 I. 
 
 And it was so. He went inland no more. They 
 carried him to the coast, wliere he rests from his 
 labours. He had passed safely through, perils in- 
 numerable, and was on his way home. But it was his 
 English home that was in his thoughts and ours ; not 
 that other home to which we all are marchinof. This 
 is how the news came to us, while we were countino- 
 the months that stood between us and him. He went 
 away in the autumn. With the fall of the leaf we 
 should see him back again. What a pleasant time it 
 would be ! His mother had in view a surprise for him 
 in Paris ; his sisters dreamed of trips with him on his 
 favourite river. I thought of the dear fellow busy 
 with his first book. We drank his health and wished 
 him joy, and all the time he was asleep and knew it 
 not ; nor did we, for we heard good news of him even 
 after they had set up a wooden cross over his grave, 
 and carved upon it, " F. H., 1883."
 
 g6 North Borneo. 
 
 On Monday evening, March 19, I received from tlie 
 British North Borneo Company the following welcome 
 letter : — 
 
 11, Old Broad Street, E.C., 
 
 March I9th, 1883. 
 My dear Hatton, — The following extract from one of our 
 despatches will interest you in case you have no letters by this 
 mail : — 
 
 "Mr. Pryer has received a note from Mr. Hatton, dated 25th 
 January, from near Penangah. He was in good health, and about 
 to descend the Segama Eiver." 
 
 After this, I believe he is going into Silam, where there are four 
 Europeans, and from which place he can return to civilization by 
 Cowies' steamer. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 "Wm. M. Crocker. 
 
 Five days later, on Thursday the 22nd, Mr. Crocker 
 brought me (and I have often felt sorry for him when 
 thinking of the painful character of his mission) the 
 following telegram from Sir Walter Medhurst, at 
 Shanghai, to the British North Borneo Company in 
 London : — 
 
 Bad news from Borneo — Baquette shot himself — accident — Yon 
 Donop and Callaghan ill at Elopura. 
 
 There was one hope for us — the selfish hope that 
 the code-word was a mistake. Our kindly messenger 
 of sorrow gave us this hope to break our fall upon. 
 " Baquette " was the code-word for Frank Hatton ; 
 but there was the code- word " Banquette," which 
 stood for another officer of the Company. It was hard 
 to wish that death had taken some other, and not our 
 dear one. We tried to cherish that forlorn hope, 
 nevertheless. But in his mother's heart all hope died 
 out with the very first suggestion of trouble. The
 
 Disaster and Death. 97 
 
 next day was Good Friday. The Company had tele- 
 graphed to Shanghai for details. But we could get 
 no reply until Saturday. From Thursday mglit until 
 Saturday morning we lived through the suspense. 
 Thank God he knew nothing of our anguish. AVe 
 beguiled some of the time on Friday sending a special 
 messenger into the country to ask some unnecessary 
 question about the telegram. The local churches 
 tolled their sad bells for a death that occurred eisrhteeri 
 hundred years ago. The next morning London awoke 
 as usual to its daily miseries and joys ; and in a sort of 
 dull dream I travelled to the city, over the ground 
 which he and I had often traversed together, and 
 entered the offices where I had often had news of him. 
 Sympathetic hands laid before me the second telegram 
 from Sir Walter Medhurst : — 
 
 It was Hatton — lie was elepliant shooting — his rifle caught in tlie 
 bushes and exploded — he was shot through the lungs and died in- 
 stantly — an inquest was held at Elopura. There are no written 
 advices. 
 
 11. 
 
 And we drew down tlie blinds, for now we knew 
 
 that he was dead. How we accepted the inevitable 
 
 needs no telling. During the day a minstrel played 
 
 under my window " Home, sweet Home," and I tasted 
 
 all the bitterness of it. Then came the necessity of 
 
 occupation. But it had to be in his service. So we 
 
 made arrangements to bring him home.^ We visited 
 
 ^ *' British North Borneo Company, 11, OJd Broad Street, London, 
 
 "2Sfh March, 1883, 
 " Dkar Sir, — The Court of Directors have learned with extreme 
 regret of the fatal accident that has befallen your son, Mr. Frank 
 Hatton, as reported by the telegraphic advices of Sir W. Medhurst ; 
 and I am desired on their behalf to convey to you and to the other 
 members of your family the deep sympathy of the Court at the loss 
 
 II
 
 98 North Boj-neo. 
 
 cemeteries and churchyards to find him an English 
 resting-place. Telegrams went out to the East, a 
 coffin was provided and sent to Borneo from Singapore, 
 and the date was fixed for the dear remains of him to be 
 embarked for home. Tennyson's sublime poem " In 
 Memoriam" had once been my chamber-book, and Itook 
 it up again now and found a melancholy kind of comfort 
 in it. I followed the imaginary track of an imaginary 
 ship, with its " dark freight of a vanished life ;" for by 
 the time we should have met the vessel, information came 
 that he might not be removed for two years. And 
 then came letters from abroad, supplementing the many 
 tender messages which the mails had already brought 
 us from all parts of the United Kingdom. They were 
 more eloquent I think than is customary on the 
 occasions which elicit "letters of condolence." I 
 turned to " In Memoriam " to find that the poet had 
 resented the proverbial remark that death is the 
 common lot. None of my correspondents, however, 
 wrote to me in that conventional strain ; yet the poet's 
 exclamation against the phrase that " loss is common " 
 touched me keenly, for I was an actor in the tragedy 
 he had put into four throbbing lines of verse : — 
 
 " father, wheresoe'er thou be, 
 
 Who pledgest now thy gallant son ; 
 A shot, ere half thy draught be done, 
 Hath still'd the life that beat from thee." 
 
 you have sustained by this sad occurrence, which has also deprived 
 them of the services of a most energetic, valuable, and painstaking 
 officer. Instructions will be sent by this next mail to the Governor as 
 to the disposal of your son's remains, and the collectron of his pajDers and 
 property in accordance with your wishes. 
 
 " Yours faithfullj", Elphinstone, Vice-Chcdrman. 
 ''Joseph Hatton, Esq., 14, TitcliJieU Terrace, N.W:'
 
 Disaslcj' and Death. '99 
 
 Those sadly welcomed letters from over the sea ; I 
 cannot close this chapter without printing a few of 
 their eloquent and tender tributes to him. They are 
 from his friends, from those who had seen him since I 
 had, who had touched hands with him in that interval 
 between our good-bye and his silence. One is from Mrs. 
 Treacher. It is addressed to my wife, and comes to 
 us " with one or two pieces of music in my care which 
 belonged to your dear one, and I am sending them to 
 you by this mail, for I know how precious they, with 
 everything else that belonged to him, must be to you." 
 And then she adds, " words are such empty things, 
 and it is so hard to try and say what one feels for 
 trouble like yours. I only heard the sad, sad news 
 yesterday, and I cannot keep the tears from my eyes. 
 I feel for you very, very deeply ; it seems a trouble 
 almost too hard for you to bear, knowing how we all 
 feel it here. He leaves a very bright recollection of him- 
 self in all our hearts — the recollection of a bright, fearless , 
 brave life, through ivhich we could always catch a glimpse 
 of his strong love for horned Opening this packet of 
 the dear fellow's music, it was quite in keeping with 
 the rest of the story that the first piece should be 
 Chopin's " Funeral March." The other two were 
 Wagner's march from " Tannhauser," and De Groot's 
 *' Le Rercil des Fauvettes." 
 
 From Sandakan Andrew Beveridge, the Australian 
 gold-miner who was with him on his last expedition, 
 wrote, "If I consulted my feelings I should not write 
 to you. As the comrade of your son, and being with 
 him at the last moment of his life, my duty impels mo 
 to give you the few plain facts which have caused so 
 dreadful a bereavement to yourself and family. ... I 
 
 H 2
 
 loo North Borneo. 
 
 found your son breathing his last, supported by his 
 native attendants. I am certain he came by his sad 
 end through accidentally shooting himself with his 
 rifle. I need not go into particulars, as no doubt you 
 will receive the evidence as given at the inquest ; believe 
 me, I knew the worth of your son's brave spirit and 
 comradeship." ^ 
 
 Mr. Alfred Dent wrote from Shanghai, " So sudden 
 an end to such a promising career will cast a deep 
 gloom over our service in Borneo for a long time to 
 come. I had been looking forward with great pleasure 
 to meeting him after his long and tedious exploration 
 on the eastern coast. We shall have only his writings 
 instead of his face to look into now. I promise you 
 that they and all his belongings shall be held in the 
 respect they deserve. No one has worked so laboriously 
 and pluckily for us as Frank during his travels in un- 
 known districts, and few people have interested them- 
 selves more than he has done in the early history of 
 our enterprise." 
 
 I forbear from making any further extracts from 
 these letters. They are more or less private, and they 
 are all very sad. Now that I can read them again 
 with something like calmness, I note how far they are 
 above that common idea of consolation — that "it is all 
 for the best." Another thing also strikes me, that many 
 persons whom we meet in society and elsewhere, and 
 regard as happy, nurse at home sorrows we have never 
 heard of. I could relate some touching stories of men 
 and women who in the shadow of my sorrow have told 
 
 * "Mr. Beveridge," writes the Governor (June 20th, 1883), "has 
 just left us, his health having entirely given way under the strain of 
 the hardships wliich your lamented son's spirit enabled him to boar 
 so well."
 
 Disaster and Dea th. i o r 
 
 me of theirs.^ Through our own misfortunes we 
 become acquainted with a multitude of fellow-sufferers. 
 
 III. 
 The details of his death came by-and-by, mixed up in 
 the mails with fresh letters of condolence,^ inquiry, and 
 
 ^ In an American journal to which I have contributed some 
 journalistic notes and literary reminiscences I recently had occasion to 
 refer to this sentiment of " a fellow-feeling," and I illustrated it with 
 the following most melancholy incident. This note is dated August 21, 
 1884: — " Two or three weeks ago Mr. Gilbert a'Beckett, one of the 
 Punrli staff and a well-known dramatic author, called upon me. ' I 
 have just dropped my son to see the cricket match at Lords' (which 
 is close toniy house), he said. Then I thought he suddenly avoided 
 the subject, remembering that I had now no son. A few days ago 
 tliis fine, handsome boy, a college lad of about fourteen, on a holiday 
 visit at Thorndon Hall, shot a bird ; it fell into a pond ; he swam in 
 after it, was seized with cramp, and was drowned. Life is a tragedy. 
 Chronicling and reviewing its current history, in the course of one's 
 journalistic business, one is obliged more or less to deal with its comedy 
 side, but how frequently we are all pulled up by the discharge of a 
 gun, a sudden cry, a collision at sea, the breaking of a locomotive 
 crank, the flooding of a distant valley, a proclamation of war, to go 
 back to the admission that life is a tragedy. A'Beckett, I hear, is 
 inconsolable ; yet by-and-by he will have to 'make merry,' and go on 
 Avriting for Pimch. 
 
 * Among these were two from namesakes, one an army officer 
 in India, another from ]\Irs. Bradshaw, wife of the editor of tlie 
 Nottlmjham Journal, who wrote that her father married a INIiss Hatton, 
 and that Hatton had always been one of their family names. The 
 point of tliis lies in the heroic and tragic story which my correspondent 
 relates. Tlie details of my son's death impressed her forcii)ly by 
 " their strange similarity " with those which led to her brother's deatli 
 in a foreign and distant land. "It seems," she writes, "more than 
 passing strange that after the lapse of more than thirty-three years this 
 other sad fatality should occur, and that two brave lads bearing 
 the same name sliould be the victims of a like catastrophe." iNIy 
 sympathetic correspondent encloses me the following remarkable and 
 impressive narrative, Avhicli was found among her brother's effects, 
 which were forwarded to England by a brave Cuban doctor, together
 
 I02 North Borneo. 
 
 tributes to liis memory ; but it was not until the first 
 week in May that the written despatches and records 
 
 with a letter from the young fellow hhuself. This is the young 
 adventurer's letter : — 
 
 " Some years ago I grew tired of home and the monotonous hum- 
 drum of my daily toil, and resolved to visit different lands. I had 
 already heen over a great part of Europe, hut was not satisfied, so I 
 determined to go to Australia. After much hesitation, my father gave 
 me a good outfit, bought me both farming and mining implements, 
 tents, and everything which we considered might be necessary, gave 
 me a tidy sum of money, paid my passage on board an A 1 clipper, 
 had a cabin built for me and my companions on deck (for there were 
 five or six of us in company), and said, ' Good-bye ! ' to us a few miles 
 down the INIersey. I see him now standing on that little steam tug 
 which separated us. He had lost a worse son than I had a father. 
 We had a cheerful and merry voyage of ninety-seven days. We 
 landed at Melbourne. After a few days of sight-seeing, when we 
 managed to get rid of a good deal of our money, we went up country 
 to look for gold. Ah me ! what a life we led ! It chills my blood to 
 think about it. Toil, toil, toil, so wearily from morning till night, 
 sometimes up to the Avaist in water, sometimes up to the knees in mud, 
 sometimes in quartz so hard it was like chiselling at steel, and finding 
 no gold, getting poorer and weaker and thinner every day, ready to 
 sink at night as we lay out in the open air, covered with a rug, and 
 thinking of the comfortable homes we had been such fools to leave. 
 Sometimes we would wake up half frozen, while our feet, which 
 were towards the fire, were scorched. Well, I went on digging and 
 had better luck, turned shopkeeper, and lost all my money again ; 
 then turned cattle driver, was first one thing and then another, till I 
 scraped enough money together to take me home. But I would not 
 go to England. I was determined, when I did go, it should be as a rich 
 man, not as a pauper. So I stayed on, and moved about from place 
 to place, seeing strange sights and doing various things, till I worked 
 my way down to the coast, a healthy man with a well-lined purse. 
 Then I fell in with a Yankee skipper who was engaged in the coasting 
 trade aboard a schooner of about 200 tons burden, with a crew of six 
 men. I took a passage on board the schooner, and calculated on 
 landing in North America in about twelve months. We set sail for 
 Peru, got on the Brazilian coast, landed at various stations to barter 
 our cargo ; had all sorts of sport — at one place a bit of lion hunting,
 
 Disaster and Death. . 103 
 
 of the inquest were complete. The facts may be briefly 
 condensed in this place. The official record is printed 
 
 at another chamois hunting, then a bit of shark fishing, and first one 
 thing and then another, until at last Ave found ourselves on the coast 
 of Chili. Here Ave were becahned, so Ave landed. The British Consul, 
 hearing of our arrival, sent me an invitation to stay Avith him, and 
 here I am, comfortably lodged in his house, smoking a pipe and writing 
 this. To-morroAV we are going inland to see if we can rouse a few 
 lion-cubs or other small fry i'or sport. To-morroAV night I shall 
 finish this, and give an accoUnt of our excursion." 
 
 ******* 
 
 SeA'en days later the letter Avas continued as follows : — " Here lam 
 in bed, in the British Consul's house, scribbling a few lines as best I 
 am able Avith a pencil. I was to have finished my letter the night of 
 our hunting party, but I have been obliged to postpone it. We Avent 
 into the mountains cub hunting, but we made a terribly long march 
 before Ave found anything. About two o'clock I Avas getting through 
 some tangled brushAvood, and my gun Avent off, shooting my arm 
 through above the elboAV. My word, hoAv it bled ! All the shot went 
 clean through, making a hole as big as an apple, and splintering the 
 bone. I very soon fainted from loss of blood, and Avhen I came round 
 I Avas lying on the back of a mule, being taken gently doAvn the 
 mountains toAvards the coast. My newly-found friends were very 
 kind and attentive, especially the Consul — he is a downright good 
 felloAV, a regular Englishman. He came alongside and told me all 
 about it. He said he had been travelling in this style for three hours, 
 and he Avas taking us to the nearest station Avhere we could find a 
 doctor. There is only one doctor about every three hundred miles in 
 these parts, and Ave Avere fortunately near one. They had tied my 
 handkerchief tightly round my arm to stop the bleeding, but it began 
 to feel very bad Avith the jolting of the mule and the tight bandage. 
 When Ave got doAvn to the coast Ave hired a small boat, and I was 
 lifted on board. We Avere then sixteen hours on the open sea, and all 
 tliis Avhile you can imagine my shattered arm Avas not very comfort- 
 a])le. At last we got home, and the doctor Avas quickly on the spot. 
 He soon saw Avhat Avas amiss, and told me he should have to take off 
 my arm, as it had been too long Avithout attention to render recovery 
 possible. I didn't much like parting Avith so valuable a limb, for avo 
 had been together many years, and it had done me good service at one 
 time or another. It had given many a man a hearty Avclcome in 
 civilized countries, and knocked many anoneou the head in thejungh's
 
 I04 North Bomieo. 
 
 in the second part of this volume. Frank Hatton was 
 conducting an expedition in the north-eastern part of 
 Borneo. It consisted of four boats. He was in the first 
 
 so I was loth to lose it. But there was no help for it, so I asked the 
 doctor to give me a cigar and a cup of coffee, and to get on with his 
 work. He asked me " if I should like my eyes bandaged," but I de- 
 clined with thanks. He got out his knife and saw, and in about 
 half an hour had performed as nice an amputation as ever I Ijeheld, 
 for that was not the first I had witnessed, by many an one. He told 
 me to keep up my spirits, which I am now doing to the best of my 
 ability. I expect in a few more days to go aboard the schooner, for 
 that Yankee is still here, and vows he will wait for me, if he stops 
 
 twelve months." 
 
 ******* 
 
 The following is an extract from the Cuban doctor's letter : — 
 " Poor fellow ! he suffered and died like a hero. At the time he was 
 writing so cheerily, the cold hand of death was on his throat. "When 
 he was brought under my care, I saw in an instant that mortification 
 had set in — they had tied his arm so tightly — and no power could save 
 him. What courage ! — to smoke while I operated ! When my saw was 
 in the middle of one of the ligaments of his arm, he exclaimed in good 
 French, ' Doctor, excuse me a moment, you take my breath ; give me 
 that cup of coffee ! ' I gave it to him, and he recovered his strength. 
 I asked him ' if I should bandage his eyes,' and he said, ' Ah, doctor, 
 you forget that I am an Englishman.' Ah, these English, they are 
 like iron men ; they are calm and brave and cold. He appeared to 
 recover in a short time, and I began to hope, but the mortification 
 suddenly revived, and he sank like a meteor. He asked for his pipe, 
 which I gave him. He smoked calmly, and remarked he did not feel 
 so well ! Poor fellow, he was within an hour of death. He grew 
 feebler each minute, till he could not smoke, and he sank into a 
 slumbering condition. I endeavoured to arouse him, and asked his 
 name and birthplace, but he could not reply. I gave him a spoonful 
 of brandy, after which he said, ' God bless — ' and fell back upon his 
 pillow. I held the cross over his eyes, but they saw no more of earth. 
 He was interred in the little churchyard in Chili, where British 
 subjects are buried, and there is to be found there a simple, wooden 
 cross, erected at the head of his gTave, and on it is this inscription : — 
 '"To an Unknown Hero,' 
 "March 21, 18.57."
 
 Disaster and Deal Ji. 105 
 
 one, and Mr. Beveridge, an Australian mining expert, 
 in the last. Frank fired from his boat at an elephant and 
 wounded it severely. Leaping ashore, accompanied 
 only by his mandore, a Malay, named Drahman, he gave 
 chase. They came up to the elephant, which had 
 stopped, and was roaring. Thinking possibly that his 
 Winchester rifle was too lig^ht for a final attack on the 
 elephant, he went back to the boats for a party of his 
 native attendants. Arming them with Sniders, he led 
 them into the jungle. The elephant, however, had 
 moved off", and it being now nearly dark, he was per- 
 suaded by Drahman to return. On the way back he was 
 walking with his Winchester at the shoulder. When 
 penetrating the forests he had always been in the 
 habit of carrying a stick for the purpose of pushing 
 aside the overhanging vines. On this occasion, as he 
 stooped to pass under a creeper, he raised his rifle to 
 lift up the obstruction. The weapon became entangled 
 in an unusually strong growth of vines, whereby the 
 muzzle was suddenly twisted towards him, slid down 
 his shoulder, and went off, the trigger being pulled by 
 some twigs of the creeper.^ The ball entered at the 
 
 * Truth, in mentioning the accident, points out the fact tliat many 
 persons lose their lives in the work at Avhich they are proficient, and 
 instances Spcke being shot by his own gun while partridge shooting in 
 Somersetshire, and Whyte Melville dying by an accident in the 
 hunting-field. Recently conversing with Mr. H. H. Johnston, the 
 young ^Vfrican explorer (whose volume on the Congo is one of the 
 most interesting of recent books of travel), he confessed that he had 
 had more than one very narrow escape from serious wounds or death 
 while carrying a rifle in the jungle. Mr. Groveruor Treacher considers 
 the "Winchester inisafe for jungle work. It is, nevertheless, a favourite 
 weajion witli travellers. ^Ir. Stanley carries a "Winchester; so also do 
 Mr. Joseph Thomson, ^Ir. II. H. John.ston, and other African 
 explorers. I have lately examined many Winchesters. The trigger,
 
 io6 North Borneo. 
 
 collar-bone and came out at the back lower down, 
 severinir two main arteries. His men were round Lini 
 in a moment, and seized him before he fell. " Oodeen, 
 Oodeen, mati sahya ! " (" Oodeen, Oodeen, I am dead ") 
 he said in Malay, as he laid his head on the shoulder of 
 his Tutong boy, whose name is Oodeen, and who was 
 devoted to his service. It was at this moment that 
 Mr. Beveridge arrived on the scene. He heard the 
 shot and the cry of the men, and leaping from his 
 boat, (only some 150 yards away), within four or five 
 minutes at the most was by his young chief's side ; but 
 Frank Hatton was breathing his last. So surprising 
 was it to Mr. Beveridge that " Tuan Hatton," noted 
 for his coolness and his care in the management 
 of his weapons, should have shot himself, that he 
 exclaimed, " Who has done this ? " The men, most 
 of them shedding bitter tears and crying, " Better 
 we had died," explained the incident, and after satis- 
 fying himself that their story was only too true, 
 he had the body carried to the boats. One of the 
 most affectionate acts of devotion followed. Eleven 
 of the explorer's men, under the direction of Mr. 
 Beveridge, paddled the body to Sandakan by river 
 and sea, a distance of nearly 170 miles. They never 
 slept, night or day. They only rested three times, 
 to cook and eat a little rice. For fifty-three hours 
 
 it seems to me, might be better protected than it is. A distinguished 
 member of the Sabah Government said to me recently, " I am only 
 surprised that more accidents do not happen. I Avas shooting in the 
 jungle not long since, when my rifle was caught in the creepers. They 
 are as strong as steel, and spring back upon you in the most extraor- 
 dinary way. ' That is how poor Frank was killed,' I said, as my riile 
 was suddenly twisted out of my hand. The density of the Lurncan 
 jungle is beyond all description."
 
 Disaster and Death. 
 
 107 
 
 they paddled tlieir native boat down the hitherto 
 unexplored river to the sea, and then along the wild 
 coast to Sandakan. Here is a subject for poet and 
 painter, the silent passenger and the dusky rowers, 
 who only pause under sun and moon to lament the 
 dead and to eat rice enough to give them strength to 
 reach the distant Residency. In the daytime the boat 
 glides silently along by the unpeopled banks of the 
 unknown river. A white bird, a stray deer, a wild 
 bull, or a company of chattering monkeys pause to 
 look at the unfamiliar sisfht. The burnino; sun shines 
 straight down upon them. Now and then they shoot 
 
 THE LAST JorHNEY. {From a Didwing ly E. J. Meeker.) 
 
 along under the shade of the nipa-palm. At night 
 still onwards, the only sounds the cries of wild 
 animals in the forests, until at last the murmur of the 
 sea greets them. Then, by-and by, they are among 
 the breakers. They push on outside the headlands. 
 At length they reach the bay where a week or two 
 hence their silent passenger was to have landed to 
 meet friends and prepare for his well-earned holiday 
 in England. It is night when they anchor oif the 
 Residency, midnight, and the mournful news goes 
 round the little town, among the handful of Europeans, 
 and the crowd of natives and Chinese. Says a corre-
 
 io8 North Borneo. 
 
 spondent recording the incident in tlie Straits Times, 
 " The European population were sadly dismayed when 
 it became known that one of their bravest and most 
 genial friends was no more, and that his body was 
 lying at Sandakan. With tearful eyes one asked the 
 other if it could be true that Frank Hatton was dead ! " ^ 
 There are many curiously striking coincidences in 
 connection with the young explorer's death which may 
 possibly be hereafter related. One of them may be 
 noted here. Rarely in his letters or reports, or in such 
 extracts from his diaries as I have yet seen, has he 
 taken up much space in anything like eloquent descrip- 
 tions of the natural scenery of Borneo. But I have 
 before me some notes of one of his most remarkable 
 journeys, from the Labuk River to Kudat, nearly four 
 months of river and jungle travel. Once he pauses to 
 describe a " splendid view " which he obtained from the 
 summit of a ridge of land 3000 feet above the sea level, 
 
 ® "The Melbourne Argus contains the report of a paper read by Mr. 
 De Lissa at a meetmg of the Geographical Society of Australia, 
 containing an eloquent tribute to the young London scientist whose 
 accidental death in the interior of Xorth Borneo will be remembered. 
 ' Among the intrepid explorers and scientific men who have done so 
 much for Sabah,' said the speaker, ' can never be forgotten the brave, 
 young, and clever Frank Hatton, Avho, at the early age of twenty-two, 
 had already made a name in Europe for his scientific abilities, and 
 who, with his chosen Malay followers, intrepidly explored the unknowji 
 regions of Eorneo. Xever shall I forget my intense sorrow, shared as 
 it was by a sobbing community, when his death was announced at 
 Elopura. He will be always remembered among the pioneers of 
 Borneo as the gentle and heroic Frank Hatton.' The Singapore 
 branch of the Asiatic Society recently recorded in their minutes a 
 note of the society's high appreciation of Frank Hatton's work, and 
 during an official survey of the Seguama country a range of hills Avere 
 named after the young explorer and ' blood brother ' of many native 
 tribes."— L>c/j7y News, October llth, 188i.
 
 Disaster and Death. 109 
 
 and in his graphic sketch lie indicates the very country 
 in which just a year later it was to be his fate to bring 
 his worldly travel to an end : — 
 
 " To the north," he writes, " lay the Kinabatangan 
 Yalley, with the Silam Hills in the distance ; eastwards 
 stretched the Labuk, girded by hills rising one above 
 the other up to the noble crags of Mentapok. In the 
 distance, again, was the Singat Vale, with range upon 
 range of tree-capped mountains rising right away to 
 Kina Balu, which, seemingly near, towered like a fairy 
 castle up into the blue sky. I shall never forget this 
 lovely scene, but more especially shall I remember the 
 wonderful tints and shades presented by the distant 
 ' giant hills of Borneo ! ' A blue sky showed up every 
 crag of the principal mountain, which stood out purple 
 and black. The setting sun shed its rays on rock and 
 tree, and the water streaming down the time-worn 
 sides glinted and flashed, while the nearer hills were 
 clothed in every shade of green. A few white clouds 
 appeared in the distance, and as I neared the Dusun 
 kampong of Toadilah night-clouds were closing in the 
 glorious landscape. It was a most exceptional view, 
 and one which this season of the tropical 3'ear can 
 alone afford." 
 
 When he died in the following March, he was on his 
 way to those very " Silam Hills " he writes of. If the 
 mountains of Pisgah are as real as these Bornean high- 
 lands, he has ascended the sunny heights and entered 
 " the better land." 
 
 An inquest was held at Elopura in the Bay of San- 
 dakan, and adjourned from time to time during two 
 or tliree days, until all the boats came in and each man 
 could give his evidence. Dr. Walker said the wound
 
 lib North Borneo. 
 
 was perfectly consistent with the statements of the 
 mandore and the boy Oodeen. It was inconsistent 
 with the theory that one of the other rifles might have 
 accidentally exploded, as Frank Hatton was taller than 
 any of the natives, and the bullet had entered from 
 above. Further, it seems that the men acted on a 
 general order from Mr. Hatton never to carry their 
 weapons loaded, and only to load when there was 
 something to shoot at. Questioned as to Mr. Hatton's 
 relations with his men, Mr. Beveridge said, " Mr. 
 Hatton was on the very best of terms with his men ; 
 they would do anything for him. Half of them were 
 crying." A native said, "Mr. Hatton always cleaned 
 his own gun ; we were afraid to touch it." Ungong, 
 another native, said he arrived on the scene with Mr. 
 Beveridge, four or five minutes after they heard the 
 shot. " Mr. Hatton was dead. We all cried. I had 
 been with Mr. Hatton a year. We all said, ' Better we 
 had died than this.' " The jury, which consisted of 
 twelve Europeans, recorded the following verdict : — 
 
 The jury are of opinion that Frank Hatton came by his death from 
 the accidental discharge of his rifle on the evening of the 1st of 
 March while returning from elephant shooting at Sugoon Tukol, 
 which is situated about sixty miles up the Segama Eiver, and about 
 160 miles by water from Sandakan, and whilst he was pushing aside 
 a vine with the aid of said loaded rifle carried in his hand. 
 
 The jury much deplore the sudden death of Mr. Hatton, who, as an 
 explorer and mineralogist, had proved himself of much value to the 
 British I^orth Borneo Company and to the world generally, and on 
 account of his many social qualities. 
 
 Governor Treacher in his despatch pays a high 
 tribute to the deceased, "whose reports of journeys 
 in the interior, and of metalliferous researches," he 
 says, "amidst circumstances of much difficulty and
 
 Disaster and Death. 
 
 Ill 
 
 oftentimes of personal danger, will remain as reliable 
 records in the annals of the North Borneo Company. 
 He was devoted to the work he had in hand, and his 
 scientific attainments made him enthusiastic in his 
 interesting pursuits. Personally his amiability en- 
 deared him to all who came in contact with him — 
 he was as popular among his brother officers as he 
 was trusted among the natives (who followed him so 
 faithfully to his death) in his inland journeys." Mr. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ELOPrHA, THE CIIIHF SETTLEMENT IN NORTH BORNEO. 
 
 Draun ly E. J. Meeker. (From a Phofoffraph hy Mr. Eohson.) 
 
 Resident Pryer bears equally high testimony to the 
 "brilliant beginning and promising future" of the 
 deceased, in concluding which he says, *' Mr. Hatton's 
 geographical notes will be of great value, and his 
 name will be attached to the first correct chart of the 
 Kinabatangan River." 
 
 The remains of the young scientist were interred at 
 Elopura on the 4th of March, followed to the grave by
 
 1 1 2 No^'tJi Borneo. 
 
 the Resident, all the Europeans, and many inhabitants, 
 Chinese and natives, of the district. From the lowest 
 native to the highest European functionary a general 
 grief was manifest among the strangely picturesque 
 crowd. The funeral took place at eight o'clock in the 
 morning. The procession formed opposite the public 
 offices, and followed the coffin to the grave (a distance 
 of about a mile), where the service of the Church of 
 England was read by Mr. Pryer. The burial-place 
 was a jungle clearing of about an acre, on a gentle 
 slope half a mile from the sea. It has since been con- 
 secrated, and by this time other silent neighbours keep 
 sorrowful company with the first European tenant, upon 
 whose primitive headstone might be duplicated Pope's 
 lines on Harcourt, which touchingly interpret my own 
 experience of one of the kindest, most manly, most 
 amiable fellows that ever lived : — 
 
 " To this sad slirine, whoe'er thou art ! draw near. 
 Here lies the friend most lov'd, the son most dear"; 
 Who ne'er knew jo}'^, but friendship might divide, 
 Or gave his father grief but Avhen he died ! " 
 
 IV. 
 
 As it is from the pen of Mr. Governor Treacher 
 himself (who has acknowledged it with supplementary 
 notes of praise and regret), I am constrained to 
 print the following eloquent tribute and pathetic 
 narrative which appeared, surrounded with a black 
 border, in the official gazette of the Government, 
 the North Borneo Herald: — 
 
 MR. FRANK HATTON. 
 
 It is our sad duty to chronicle in this, only our second issue, the 
 occurrence of a most melancholy accident resulting in the death of a
 
 
 
 Jkcfcho/ G^rc/n/{3i'(7//o/7S S^rars 
 
 \ a/c/c/nc/acan, j8r///J/i Jior//ijZ)or/i60 
 
 To fncepiirjc 112.
 
 Disaster and Death. 1 1 3 
 
 promising young officer of the Company's service. Mr. Frank Hatton, 
 after an arduous exploring journey up the Kiver Kinabatangan, and a 
 very phicky though unsuccessful attempt to reach the Segaraa over- 
 land from the former river during the prevalence of the rainy season, 
 was compelled to make the journey by sea, and reached the Segama 
 with his party in open boats on the 27 th of February, after M'hat he 
 has described in his diary as " a terrible voyage." His duty was to 
 prospect the Segama district for gold, to the existence of which the 
 testimony of all tlie natives of the east coast unanimously point. 
 With this ol)ject, accompanied by Mr. Beveridge, the companion of 
 all his journeys in Borneo, and by a party of Malays, he ascended the 
 river. His diary is continued to the 1st of March, on which day he 
 enters the note, "Just one year ago left Sandakan for the Labuk," 
 the first inland journey he had made in the territory, and this was 
 the day that was to terminate for ever all his work in this world. 
 The last entry in the diary is to the effect that at 3.40 p.m. on the 
 date named above he had reached a certain point up the river. Soon 
 after this it appears he came across an elephant on the bank, and 
 firing at it with his Winchester repeating rifle, he wounded it. The 
 animal made for the jungle, and the deceased immediately started in 
 pursuit. He was unable to get up to the quarry, and darkness coming 
 on with the rapidity usual in tropical climes, he and his native fol- 
 lowers determined to give up the chase for the day and return to their 
 boats. On the way back Mr. Hatton, leading the way, came across a 
 creeper growing across the track. He, somewhat wearied, probably, 
 by the fatigues of the day, attempted to remove it with the butt end 
 of his rifle. The weapon is known to have had an exceptionally sen- 
 sitive lock. Some sudden jerk occasioned by the elasticity of the 
 creeper caused the loaded weapon to explode, and the bullet passed 
 right through his breast. He fell into the arms of bis " boy " (a 
 native servant), who was walking behind him, and was only able to 
 utter, " f/'/j/i, saijia mati" — " Udin, I die!" And in three or four 
 minutes all was over. Mr. Beveridge had been following up the river 
 close behind in another boat. He heard the shot fired, and hurrying 
 up to tlie spot whence the sound proceeded, was informed by the 
 follow(;rs of the terrible event which had just transpired, and arrived 
 only in time to see poor Hatton breathe his last. This sad event 
 is, if possible, rendered still more sad by the fact that the lamented 
 officer had been, according to the evidence of Mr. Beveridge, in the 
 highest spirits for several weeks previously, rejoicing in the fact that 
 he was sliortly to terminate his labours in Borneo and rejoin liis 
 
 I
 
 114 , Noi'th Borneo. 
 
 family, to wliich it was patent to all who had experienced the pleasure 
 of his acquaintance, he, as an only son, was attached by ties of more 
 than ordinary depth and devotion. 
 
 IMr. Hatton arrived in the country in October, 1881. He was of 
 somewhat slender build, and apparently not possessed of a robust con- 
 stitution, and it was consequently thoiight by many of his brother 
 officers that he was scarcely fitted to stand the hardships of inland 
 journeys in a jungle-covered country such as this, without roads or 
 house accommodation for the traveller. But what he may have 
 wanted in physical strength the deceased made up in strength of 
 mind and in that pluck and determination to carry out his mission, 
 however arduous and dangerous, which we find in the Englishman in 
 all quarters of the globe. This pluck and determination had carried 
 him safely and triumphantly through difficulties which could never 
 have entered into his thoughts when he accepted in London the 
 appointment of Commissioner of Mineral Explorations to the 
 Company. 
 
 During the short time he was with us Mr. Hatton had examined and 
 furnished an exhaustive report upon the valuable resources locked up 
 in the Sekuati petroleum oil sliale. He made an adventurous journey 
 from Sandakan to the Labuk River, up that river and across country 
 to Kudat. He subsequently spent some months in a patient explora- 
 tion of the country at the head of Marudu Bay, where he met Avith 
 and discovered samples of native copper and copper pyrites, coal, and 
 other minerals which will in time doubtless be developed in the 
 interests of the Company's Government. He then paid a short visit 
 to Singapore to recruit himself after his prolonged sojourn in the 
 jungle, and on his return to Borneo proceeded to Sandakan, where he 
 entered upon the expedition Avhich has so disastrously terminated in the 
 death of a gallant and enterprising young officer. By his modesty, his 
 ingenuousness, and by his attainments, he had won the sincere regard, 
 and, in many cases, the affection of his brother officers. Before leaving 
 England he had made the commencement of a reputation by his 
 chemical researches. His native followers were strongly attached to 
 him, and he had shown an exceptional facility in acquiring influ- 
 ence over and inspiring confidence in the untutored inland tribes. He 
 has, we believe, left behind him a very complete vocabulary of one 
 dialect of the Dusun language, which we trust the Government will 
 take steps to have published in the interest of the junior members of 
 the service. Mr. Hatton's age we gather to have been not more than 
 twenty-one or twenty-two years. All who know him prophesied for
 
 Disaster and Death. 
 
 115 
 
 him a distinguished career. To the great Disposer of all things it 
 has seemed good to ordain otherwise. Whom the Gods love die 
 young. 
 
 PEINCIPAL STEEET IN THE NATIVE TOWN OF SANDAKAN "^ (eLOPUEA). 
 
 (Drawn by Helen S. Hatton. From a Fhotograph hy Mr. Robson.) 
 
 The second part of tHese notes and reminiscences 
 is devoted chiefly to the publication of such por- 
 
 ' " The native town is very picturesque, as Avill be gathered from our 
 illustrations of the wharf and the principal street. The buildings 
 along the quay are made of bamboo with Nipa-palm " attaps." The 
 principal street is little more than a palm-stem gangway, elevated on 
 piles above the water. It is a curious sight when crowded, as it is 
 now and then, and it is none the less strange in the early morning, when 
 the earliest risers are abroad. The new town which is being built by 
 the Company is on the slope of the hill that rises above the native 
 village. It was from Elopura that Frank Hatton set forth on liis 
 latest expedition ; it was to Elopura that his body was brought l)y his 
 native followers in that fatal month of March, 1883." — Emjlish Illus- 
 traied Mafjazhie. 
 
 1 2
 
 1 1 6 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 tions of the diaries of the late Frank Hatton as have 
 reached England, together with his reports to the 
 Company. It will represent, as far as is now possi- 
 ble, the material upon which he would have founded 
 his book on " North Borneo," and his manuscript 
 is given intact. A postscript supplies, from two of 
 his comrades, information which adds to the interest of 
 the record, and gives point to some of its revelationss 
 
 END OF PART I.
 
 yart H. 
 
 DIARIES AND REPORTS OF EXPEDITIONS, OFFICIAL 
 PAPERS, AND OTHER CHRONICLES.
 
 LIFE AT LABUAN/ 
 
 The smallest British colony — Four miles from the great island of 
 Borneo— The North Bornean Malays — A native house — The 
 Klings — The humming-birds of the East — The carpenter bee and 
 the mason wasp— Coal Point — A deserted pit — Pig shooting — 
 The goat-sucker — A monkey comedy — Snakes — Native music — 
 A brilliant sunset with a dark cloud over Borneo — Looking 
 forward. 
 
 I. 
 
 MIDST the di- 
 plomatic corre- 
 spondence of Hol- 
 land, Spain, and 
 England in re- 
 ference to the 
 cession of North 
 Borneo or Sabah 
 to a British com- 
 pany chartered by 
 her Majesty the 
 Queen, a few 
 notes on the civi- 
 lized bit of 
 country off the 
 coast may have a 
 special interest 
 both to the Old World and the New. Should they not 
 
 ' This is a mere holiday sketch. It was written with a view to
 
 120 No7'th Borneo. 
 
 prove attractive in themselves, they may be so re- 
 garded from the standpoint of an introductory sketch 
 to unexplored Borneo itself, all the more so as the 
 island upon which they are written is, in American 
 phraseology, "the jumping-off place" in the China 
 seas en route for the wonderful reo-ions that surround 
 the sacred mountain of Kina Balu. 
 
 Labuan is an island lying a few miles north-west 
 of Borneo. It is one of the smallest and least known 
 of the British colonies. Ceded to her Majesty in 
 1847, it possesses the privilege of English govern- 
 ment, and at one time promised to be an important 
 coaling-station for the fleet. Approaching it from 
 the European route, you make the little harbour in a 
 steamer pljdng thither from Singapore. Landing at 
 the only town in the island, Victoria, a row of houses, 
 dignified by the name of the " Bazaar," is the first 
 thing one sees. All the trade and commerce of 
 Labuan is transacted in this combination of stores. 
 
 publication in a magazine and before the writer had visited the island 
 of Borneo. His work had yet to begin. He Avas at this time ex- 
 periencing his pleasantest days in Bornean waters, looking out Wou- 
 deringly at the distant coast-line of Sabah, and making arrangements 
 for his first expedition. Colonel Harington, who was his comrade 
 during these days at Labuan, has read the proof of this first chapter, 
 and I append some of his notes, which form an interesting supplement 
 to the article. Later on, in the postscript to the extracts from 
 Frank's diaries and reports, which follow this holiday essay, Colonel 
 Harington has something to say of the author and his work. Now 
 that one looks back, the story of the young traveller seems full of 
 warning omens. Had he returned home in safety they would not 
 have been remembered. But his death gives pathetic point to his 
 description of the sunset that impressed him one evening at Labuan 
 — " on the distant coast of Borneo a dark cloud hung heavily ; light- 
 ning was visible at intervals, and the far-off thunder rumblings gave 
 signal of an approaching storm."
 
 Life at Labiian. j 2 1 
 
 Most of the establishments are in the hands of the 
 Chinese. The locality is redolent of their food and 
 their tobacco. The celestial shop-keepers describe 
 themselves as "general dealers," which means that bad 
 tinned milk, biscuits of ancient date, curious wines, 
 fossilized potted meats, gunpowder, shot, and old 
 muskets are to be had from them at various prices. 
 They also deal in Manchester and German cotton 
 goods, and an endless variety of cheap " sarongs," the 
 universal dress of the country. Over each shop-door 
 are pasted Chinese characters in black, on a red 
 ground. One of these I found stood for " good Inck " 
 and another for '*' salve." 
 
 Walking on past these odoriferous stores, the only 
 two imposing structures in Labuan come in sight. 
 These are the Government offices. Txvo large low 
 buildings, roofed with red tiles, and built, as nearly all 
 buildings are in the islands of the Malay Archipelago, on 
 piles. Two brass field-pieces are stationed in front of 
 the Government offices. These guns, by-the-bye, were 
 taken from the Dutch in 1850 at Cossipore. The 
 Union Jack flies on a large flag-staff close at hand,- and 
 in the distance is a stockade mounting four small pieces. 
 These six guns, together with fifty native police, armed 
 .with Snider rifles, constitute the Labuan army. There 
 are at present half a dozen European residents and 
 officers on the island, and a population of between 
 5000 and 6000 mixed natives, made up of Kadyans, 
 Malays, and a few Borneans, Klings, and Bengalees. 
 The Malays about the coasts of Borneo are a miserable 
 and degraded race, well described by Mr. St. John as 
 
 2 Every rope taut and ship shape — the pride of the Honourable A. 
 Ilaniilton.
 
 122 North Borneo. 
 
 the most indolent and contemptible on earth. Their 
 average height is about 4J to 5 feet. There are no tall 
 Malays in these regions. A square head, with long, 
 lank, black hair, a sullen hang-dog look, a short stumpy 
 figure, high cheek-bones, and a retreating forehead, — an 
 old Malay is as near an approach to the " missing link " 
 as can be found. In character the North Bornean 
 Malays are cowardly and servile. Devoid of all spirit 
 or enterprise, they are content to live in their old way 
 until their " pile dwellings " fall down upon them. The 
 women do all the house-work and most of the field-work 
 also. The curse of theMalays is their confirmediclleness. 
 The Labuan coroner told me that he recently held an 
 inquest on the body of a little child who fell into a ditch 
 and was drowned, while a Malay sat on the bank 
 chewing betel, too lazy to get up and help the little 
 one out of the water. 
 
 A country Malay's house is better kept, perhaps, than 
 his town home. It stands as a rule in a small cocoanut 
 plantation, built on high piles, the rooms being fourteen 
 or fifteen feet from the ground. The whole of the ex- 
 terior is made of dried leaves of the nipa-palm, sown 
 together with split rattans, and supported on a frame- 
 work of wood. The interior is lined with roughly-cut 
 planks.' The entrance to the house is up a flight of 
 creaky steps, which leads to the verandah, a favourite 
 seat of the family. Here the grandmother sits all day 
 chewing her betel or smoking her long roko. The 
 mother is out in the fields, digging or pruning the 
 fruit and vegetables. One Malay " lady," who lived 
 close to my lodging in Labuan, was in the habit of 
 
 3 The roof is made of attaps, whicli form an excellent protection 
 against the constant heavy seas.
 
 Life at Labiian. 
 
 12 
 
 spending her days "pig hunting" (i.e. wild boar hunt- 
 ing) with a clumsy old musket. She recently got 
 into trouble for shooting a neighbour's cow instead of 
 the boar she was after. Since then her friends 
 evidently doubt her capacity as "a sport." The 
 musket has disappeared. 
 
 A KLING. 
 {Drawn hy Helen II. Hatton. From a Photograph, hy Frank Hatton.) 
 
 The Klings are by far the finest type of natives in 
 Labuan. They are rather darker in complexion than 
 the Malays, and are on the whole a sturdier and finer- 
 looking race of people. The accompanying illustration 
 is a portrait of my Kling syce or stableman. It is
 
 124 North Borneo. 
 
 from a photograph. I had much difficulty in persuad- 
 ing the subject to let me take a picture of him, as he 
 said it was wicked. But ^^haclcslieech^^ induced him 
 to overlook the sin. When, some days afterwards, I 
 showed him a print of himself, he merely asked if it 
 was intended for him, and did not express any surprise 
 or astonishment at all, although it must have been the 
 first time he had ever seen his own face. 
 
 The Chinese do the greater portion of the trade in 
 Labuan, and nine out of ten of them are not too 
 honest, especially the boys, who come to be engaged 
 as servants. They have a kind of " trades' union " or 
 secret society, whose orders they must obey. If the 
 society forbids a boy to accept a certain sum per 
 month, he cannot choose but obey, as any boy who 
 fights against the society is very soon worried into 
 submission. 
 
 II. 
 
 Bungalow life in Labuan is pleasant for a while, 
 but soon becomes monotonous. The bungalow in 
 which I lived was built on piles, and stood about four 
 feet from the ground. A large verandah ran round 
 three sides of the house, which was almost surrounded 
 with tall cocoanut-trees. In front the verandah " ex- 
 panded " into a kind of open room — that is, a room 
 without walls — and this is the pleasantest place to sit 
 in in all eastern houses. One large room served the 
 purpose of dining, drawing, and writing room. This 
 was about sixty feet long, and thirty feet wide, and 
 had no less than eight doors in it. The following is a 
 plan of it, and may be taken as a general idea of the 
 familiar bungalows of Singapore and the Straits 
 Settlements.
 
 
 THE BUNGALOW AT I.ADIAN' : A l^llKT (.UH.NKK. 
 
 Drawn by Helen H. Hatton, from a photograph by Frank Haiton. 
 
 To face page 124.
 
 Life at Labuan. 
 
 125 
 
 PLAN OF HOUSE IN LABUAN, 
 
 During the monsoon season a splendid breeze could 
 be got by opening the numerous doors. All cooking is 
 done out of the bungalow in the cook's offices, built forty 
 or fifty yards away, and the food is carried in by 
 servants. The rooms marked "bath-room" in the 
 plan are merely little cellars, with a tub of water in 
 each, and a small tin can with which to pour the water 
 over the '* tubber." 
 
 During my stay at Labuan I get up as a rule at
 
 126 North Borneo. 
 
 six o'clock, and have a first breakfast, quite a la fran- 
 Qaise ; tlien go for a walk or bathe along the beach, 
 and get back at eight to half-past eight o'clock. The 
 thermometer, which is about 78° to 79° at six o'clock, 
 rises to 83°, and as a rule touches 85° to 87°, or 
 sometimes 90°, from eight o'clock to twelve o'clock. 
 Nothing much is done between eight to ten (the 
 most trying part of the day), except sitting down in 
 the verandah and enjoying the cooling breeze, if in 
 the monsoon season, or watching the sun-birds hover- 
 ing over the large pink and yellow flowers that cluster 
 round the verandah. These sun-birds are the hum- 
 ming-birds of the East. They are tiny creatures, 
 richly coloured with lines of gold and yellow, brown, 
 blue, and red. They rifle the large spreading flowers 
 with their long beaks, and are as tame and as impudent 
 as London sparrows. 
 
 Here, in the East, lunch or tiffin is taken at one 
 o'clock, and dinner at six or seven. The most agree- 
 able time of the day is from four until six o'clock. 
 It is quite dark at half -past six, and the sun rises 
 about five to half-past five in the morning,* 
 
 There are, as might be expected in the tropics, 
 quantities of insects, especially in old bungalows and 
 in the vicinity of felled wood. The carpenter bees 
 had made their homes in my verandah and all the 
 wooden framework was hollowed out by these remark- 
 
 4 Colonel Harington tells me that Singapore merchants have break- 
 fast at 8.30 to 9, a most substantial meal with, generally, claret, hock, 
 &c. They lunch at 1 — another substantial meal, at which the 
 " sparkling wine of France " very often appears ; and after office-hours 
 they drive back to their houses in the environs of the town, and a 
 regular dinner is served at about 7.30.
 
 Life at Lab nan. 
 
 127 
 
 able insects. Some of them measured at least tliree 
 inclies from wing to wing. The wings are beautifully 
 coloured with iridescent tints, and the noise one of 
 the creatures makes during its flight is like that of 
 twenty humming-bees rolled into one. The mason 
 wasp, an extraordinary creature (which looked as 
 if it was carrying a valise by its tail), had been equally 
 industrious in building its house upon the verandah 
 roof. Occasionally this ponderous insect will make 
 
 THE MASON WASP. 
 
 its nest in one's bedroom ; and bats have a habit 
 of hanging by their legs all day from the ceilings, and 
 disporting themselves at night. Little green, insect- 
 eating lizards run like flies on the ceiling in pursuit 
 of that worst and most troublesome of pests, the 
 moisquito. These insects are sometimes so numerous 
 in tbe bungalow, and cluster in such quantities, that 
 the white wood is black with them. Hunting mos- 
 quitoes at night under one's mosquito curtains, with 
 a candle and a damp cloth, is one of the exciting 
 preludes to sleep in Bornean waters. Many an
 
 128 N'orth Borneo. 
 
 hour I have spent in this manner, slaughtering the 
 buzzing Httle demons, and wondering for what special 
 purpose such insects are created. I have mentioned 
 the most common of the insects which mfest houses 
 in Labuan ; among the rarer ones are large spiders, 
 five or six inches across their extended legs ; an occa- 
 sional centipede, large moths, ^ various kinds of beetles, 
 which fly in the room at night and put out the candles 
 in an objectionable, if not alarming, manner. 
 
 One of the pleasantest and coolest places in Labuan 
 is Tanjong Kubong, or Coal Point, on the north-east 
 side of the island. Here coal-mining operations on an 
 extensive scale were formerly conducted ; here are 
 four seams of coal, and a most expensive plant is on 
 the ground ; but the apparatus, machinery, buildings, 
 and engines are now all going to ruin. At one time 
 the mines were leased to the Oriental Coal Company 
 of London and Leith at a yearly rental of lOOOL In 
 
 1876 as much as 5800 tons were turned out ; and in 
 
 1877 a larger output than this was made. In 1878 
 the colliery was given up, the miners were sent away, 
 the Europeans left the place, and now, in 1881, 
 jungle covers a large portion of the houses and plant. 
 The great drawback to successful mining was water ; 
 
 5 Colonel Harington writes, " The moths are marvellous. I won- 
 der if Frank kept any of the specimens we got at Labuan : one, a 
 beautiful fawn-coloured moth, had a wonderful luminous eye, the 
 colour of a fine ruby," A specimen of this moth and a number of 
 remarkable beetles came home among some other curious things, but 
 more or less damaged by the damp of the tropical atmosphere, which 
 had penetrated even into tin-lined cases and trunks. The ac- 
 companying illustration shows the moth referred to. Its two wings 
 measure six inches across. The beetle in front of the box is about 
 the size of a canary.
 
 5 ^
 
 Life at Labnaii. 
 
 129 
 
 althougli the mine had, I am told, only two 14-mch 
 lifts to combat this difficulty. It was proposed, when 
 tbe pits were hi full swing, to make nine miles of 
 railway through dense jungle to Labuan, to convey 
 the coal, instead of bringing it round the coast in 
 lighters, as had previously been done ; and, indeed, a 
 tunnel was commenced through one of the tree-covered 
 
 THE DESERTED COLLIERY W0EK8 AT LABUAN. 
 
 [From a Sketch hy Frank Hatton. Drawn hy Helen H. Hatton.) 
 
 hills, and was carried within eight feet of completion, 
 when the ruling powers at home sent out orders to 
 abandon the works. Traction engines were also tried 
 along roads on which there was no possibility or pro- 
 bability of their ever running. It is a melancholy 
 thing to see a deserted pit at any time; but here, in 
 these out-of-the-way regions, where labour is so scarce 
 and transport so expensive, it is very depressing to see 
 
 K
 
 1 30 North Borneo. 
 
 thousands and thousands of pounds' worth of gear rust- 
 ing and decaying away, with tall ferns and great weeds 
 growing out of long-silent boilers and disused cylinders." 
 
 in. 
 
 Of course Coal Point pits have their '* presiding 
 genius." An old workman/ who used to be foreman 
 when the mines were at work, remains to "keep 
 things in order." He takes a melancholy pleasure in 
 cutting down a few of the weeds, which are fast con- 
 cealing the railway metals ; and now and then he 
 cleans down the locomotive — his special care. He 
 spends all his day wandering about the pits, just as if 
 they were at work, and comes home to his house at 
 night, after " putting things to rights," as he used to 
 do. He is very glad to take one round the works, and 
 will point out where some European workmen were 
 housed-, where the manager lived in " that there house 
 on the hill." He has lived among Malays so long 
 that he has forgotten a great deal of liis own language. 
 He lives like a native, and speaks Malay like one. I 
 was taking one or two photographs of Coal Poiut, and 
 I took his picture ; he said I was the first sun-artist 
 that had ever visited the place. 
 
 There is a great deal of " wild pig shooting " to be 
 had round Coal Point. Recently I went out for the 
 first time on a very dark night after pigs. Captain H., 
 the " genius of the pit," and I crept quietly towards 
 some uncleared jungle at about eight o'clock with our 
 rifles ready loaded. As we came up to a noted " pig 
 
 6 Colonel Harington appends this note : " I never saw so sad a 
 si»ht of daijs gone hy and waded xcork as Coal Point presented the 
 day Frank and I went over there on our first visit." 
 
 '' This was Mr. Smith, who afterwards joined the Company and 
 accompanied Frank on his first expeditions.
 
 Life at Labitan. 131 
 
 run," we heard the grunters tearing away the grass 
 
 and routing about the ground. The utmost caution 
 
 and silence is necessary on these expeditions, as the 
 
 pigs can scent any one approaching a long way off, and, 
 
 when once startled, they run at a great pace. When we 
 
 had crawled within seventy or eighty yards of the place, 
 
 we stretched ourselves flat on the grass, and waited 
 
 with our rifles full cock. The mosquitoes worried me 
 
 dreadfully. I managed, after a time, however, to get 
 
 into a pretty comfortable position, and eventually I 
 
 went to sleep. I had been dozing I suppose half an 
 
 hour, when the report of rifles woke me up. My two 
 
 friends had just fired, and the pig, a huge brute, almost 
 
 as big as a donkey, and covered with white mud, lay 
 
 struggling in the road. We had good bacon for a long 
 
 time afterwards, and in honour of the active part I did 
 
 not take in the work I was awarded the tusks as trophies. 
 
 Birds are plentiful in Labuan. Green and grey 
 
 pigeon, together with an enormous fruit pigeon and 
 
 the gaudy-feathered nicobar pigeon ; snipe, golden 
 
 plover, sand-pipers, rails, hornbills, white cranes or 
 
 " padi-birds," frigate birds, several kinds of hawk, 
 
 starlings, and hundreds of other birds are to be got in 
 
 quantities. The most characteristic day-bird is the 
 
 Java sparrow, a pretty little light grey fellow, with a 
 
 red beak and a black rino^ round his neck. At nig-ht a 
 
 peculiar bird with a " chuck-chuck," very like that of 
 
 a lizard, comes out. It is called the goat-sucker, and 
 
 the natives are much afraid of it ; they look upon it, as 
 
 we do on a raven, as a bird of ill-luck.^ 
 
 ** " The wondoiful king fisher," writes Colonel Harington, '' deserves 
 a j)lace in this list of birds. There are, I believe, about thirteen 
 different sorts — some quite gorgeous in their splendour of plumage." 
 
 K 2
 
 132 N 07' til Bo7'neo. 
 
 Snakes and alligators are the most dangerous of our 
 local specimens of animated nature. I was walking on 
 the beach with my gun at Coal Point a short time back, 
 and being tired I sat down under a great banyan-tree. 
 A group of monkeys were chattering at me about fifty 
 yards away. It is surprising how familiar monkeys 
 will become with you, if you take no notice of them, 
 and remain quiet. They seem to be daring each other 
 to approach you, and grin and chatter at you. One 
 Knowmg little fellow came within ten yards of me, 
 showed his teeth, grinned, and then ran back, screaming, 
 to his companions. I was watching this little comedy, 
 when, happening to look up into the tree under which I 
 was sitting, I saw a large boa constrictor, about eight or 
 ten feet long, coiled up above my head. It was the first 
 time I had ever seen a big snake outside the Zoological 
 Gardens in London. I raised my gun and fired. The 
 shot took effect in the middle of the reptile's body, 
 and it uncoiled itself. I pulled the second trigger of 
 my shot gun, and then reloaded. The snake dropped 
 on the sand, twisting and twining itself about, 
 evidently, poor wretch, in pain. It still, however, had 
 life enough left to make for me. I took steady aim at 
 its head, and fired both charges, one after the other. 
 The monster was now almost torn in two ; but still 
 both the head and tail continued to twist and move for 
 ten minutes afterwards, and the mouth opened and 
 shut for even a longer time. 
 
 Labuan was once a very unhealthy place. Fever 
 carried off a man a day here, but since the jungle has 
 been cleared, the climate has much improved, and fever 
 is very rare now. The jungle was all burned down 
 some few years ago during a very long drought. The
 
 Life at Labiian. 133 
 
 devastated portion presents a weird and miserable 
 siglit, enormous trunks rising eighty or one hundred 
 feet perfectly bare, some even without a branch on 
 them. These tree-pillars cover the interior of the 
 island. The undergrowth has struggled up again now ; 
 it consists of tall ferns and bushes, in which the big 
 brown jungle-hen finds a congenial retreat. 
 
 The natives are very fond of music. They make 
 large tambourines by stretching sheep or pig skin very 
 tightly over a wooden frame. The sound given out by 
 one of these resembles both in tone and volume that of 
 a kettle-drum. Each tambourine has a different note. 
 The other favourite instrument is a series of eisrht or ten 
 strips of glass, supported at each end ; these are struck 
 with a wooden hammer. Althouo-h the natives have 
 no idea of tune, their music is not destitute of melody, 
 and they keep time capitally. They will sometimes sit 
 up all night playing their two instruments, and pro- 
 ducing on them their one tune. Sound is carried an 
 immense distance in Bornean waters, and it is quite 
 strange and wild to hear these monotonous strains of 
 Malay music when wending your way homewards over 
 some lonely path at night. 
 
 Three steamers constantly visit Labuan. The 
 Cleator runs between Singapore, Labuan, and Brunei, 
 the " city of lake dwellings." She is a vessel of about 
 300 tons, and at present this forms the only regular 
 communication between the world and Labuan, though 
 the expected requirements of British North Borneo 
 will, it is said, soon see other steamers plying to and 
 fro. The loyalist, a vessel of about 250 tons, runs 
 between Singapore, Labuan, Sandakan (on the east 
 coast of Borneo), and the distant aiid little-known
 
 1 34 North Borneo. 
 
 islands of Sulu. This ship is, however, not at all 
 regular, and is sometimes away for months together. 
 The Far East is a little vessel which has steamed 
 about these little-known and less-frequented seas for 
 many years, making Labuan her headquarters. She 
 runs from that island up to Borneo, sometimes to Sulu 
 and Celebes, and sometimes goes far inland up one of 
 those grand rivers whose sources have still to be 
 discovered and described. It is surprising how few 
 vessels come into Bornean waters. I stayed a week at 
 Coal Point a short time back, and during that time not 
 a single sail came in sight. Months sometimes elapse 
 without even a sail appearing between " the vast 
 expanse of sea and sky. 
 
 There are often very brilliant sunsets in the far East. 
 I noticed a most impressive effect at Labuan. The 
 sun was setting in the west. The sky was tinted with 
 brilliant lines of gold, and blue, and green ; the moon 
 pale, and giving apparently no light, had risen in the 
 south-east. Right under the moon appeared a cloud 
 illuminated wdth a silvery light. In singular contrast 
 to the hot red glow in the west was this cool yellow 
 light, which showed in the east. The sea was a deep 
 green from the reflected sunset, and on the distant 
 coast of Borneo a dark cloud hung heavily ; lightning 
 was visible at intervals, and the far-off thunder 
 rumblings gave signal of an approaching storm. ^ 
 
 • Colonel Harington adds, " The sunsets were peculiarly wonderful 
 in those regions^not the monotonous regulation sunsets one sees iu 
 India, but veritable transformation scenes, each evening producing a 
 different effect. The most remarkable exhibition of light I ever saw 
 out there was one evening in Gaya Bay, watcldng the ' sunset-light' 
 on Kina Balu. An artist would be amply repaid by visiting that 
 wonderful laud."
 
 On the Sequati and Kurina Rivers. \ 35 
 
 II. 
 ON THE SEQUATI AND KURINA RIVERS.' 
 
 First impressions of exploration — A novel experience — ^Making a 
 Malay house — AVorking and watching — Digging for oil — " Orang 
 Dusuns " — Astonishing the natives — Flj^ing foxes — Exploring and 
 sporting — Tropical vegetation — Lost in the jungle — Pangeran 
 Brunei — A sick chief — Trading Avith the Dusuns — " Xever seen 
 a white man before" — Searching for coal — Christmas-Day on the 
 equator — The slave question — Protecting a fugitive — An anxious 
 night — The JSTew Year and a dark outlook — ADusun house— " I 
 was simply a nine days' wonder " — Keeping away evil spirits — 
 " Well, well, sir ! " — Native women at Avork — Strange and pic- 
 turesque scenes — Discoveries of coal and iron — Riding on buffiiloes 
 — Tropical floods — A perilous situation — Geology of the Binkoka 
 district. 
 
 I. 
 
 l^ov. '[9th, 1881. — Started from Abai with Captain 
 Harington and Mr. Witti, in the steam-launch Enter- 
 
 ' Only two of Frank Hatton's original diaries have reached England. 
 They are the first and last, and neither of them is complete. The first 
 is written evidently from notes, and is reprinted here as far as it 
 goes, the last entry being January 2nd, 1882. I take the remainder 
 of the record from the author's report to the Company. The last 
 diary is in pencil, and contains memoranda, which shows that he was 
 in the habit of perfecting his diaries when he returned to his station, 
 wherever it might be. The personal details in the first diary prove 
 tbat there were many things entered in his diaries which he did not, of 
 course, report to the Governor, and this was part of the material which 
 he would have worked up in the volume he intended to write on his
 
 136 North Borneo. 
 
 'prise, at six o'clock ; with Singapore sampan, Sarawak 
 prahu, and Residential boat in tow. 
 
 Arrived at Sequati River at twelve o'clock, and after 
 some difficulty in getting the goods landed, owing to 
 a heavy sea on the bar, we unloaded everything on the 
 sand-reef at the junction of the Sequati and Kurina 
 
 return home. This first diary 1 received after his death. It was 
 found in the house he occupied at Kudat. I am convinced that other 
 diaries exist, and there is some little hope that they may yet be forth- 
 coming. The reports sent to the Company were in the shape of long 
 and comprehensive extracts from his diaries, and were all written in liis 
 own hand. I give them complete as they stand. If they lack colour 
 here and there, the reason is that they were intended to have a semi- 
 official character. Mere personal reflections, notes of home, wayside 
 incidents of travel and such like details would therefore be eliminated. 
 These details would be left for publication in the book. I have en- 
 deavoured to at least suggest some of these outside incidents in the 
 special information which I have obtained from his first comrade, 
 Colonel Harington (see footnote, p. 120), and from the traveller who 
 saw him on his last expedition. So far as the notes of the four 
 expeditions herein described are concerned, I have not interfered Avith 
 the text, except to give headings to the chapters, take out some of the 
 dates, so as to carry on the narrative without the formality of the 
 day-to-daj' entries, and to omit in the first and last diaries masses of 
 mere technical figures, solar observations, and chemical and other dry 
 scientific notes which the publishers regard as details rather for the 
 archives of the Bornean Government than for a book of biography 
 and travel. I remember going up to the offices in the City to see 
 Frank's first report and being keenly touched with the perfection of the 
 work. It was a chapter of exploration and diplomacy, a scientific and 
 geological essay, illustrated with a careful map, sections of an oil-well, 
 and other notable data. The slave incident (described at page 159) 
 was regarded by the Governor and the Company as one which re- 
 flected highly upon the sound and cool judgment of the young 
 explorer. Indeed, from first to last, I never visited the headquarters 
 of the Company in London without being met with some compliment, 
 official and otherwise, that had been paid to Frank, both in the public 
 and private letters of the Governor, or in messages from travellers or 
 officials who had seen or heard of him.
 
 On the Scipiati and Kurina Rivers. 1 3 7 
 
 rivers. It rained in torrents all tlie afternoon, and 
 getting my tent up on a piece of high ground was a 
 matter of great discomfort and trouble.^ The men, 
 
 * Colonel Harington writes to me his lecollections of this trip to 
 Sequati and the opening of Frank's work in Borneo. Prefacing liis 
 notes with a tribute to his companion's bravery and " philosophic cheer- 
 fulness " under all circumstances, he says : — 
 
 " During the time I was at Abai inspecting the place as to its suit- 
 ability for the headquarters of the constabulary, Frank Hatton arrived 
 in the Royalist on the 19th of November, 1881, and disembarked. 
 His object was to consult with AVitti, and then go on to the Sequati 
 River to inspect and report on the spring of petroleum discovered there 
 by Witti. During the few days before starting for the Sequati we 
 made several excursions into the surrounding country, which, unlike 
 many other parts of North Borneo, is open, free from jungle, and 
 covered in places with the luxuriant Lalang grass. Frank was delighted 
 with the beauty of the scenery, and my favourite view from the hill 
 opposite the station across the valley and river up to the crowning 
 heights of Kina Balu especially delighted him. We said that it was worth 
 while for any good landscape artist to come out and paint a few of the 
 views — sunrise and sunset in particular being perfect, and I strongly 
 recommend it to some man with a ' worthy brush.' Frank was very keen 
 to get to ' work,' however, and so having finished all necessary prepara- 
 tions, we set off in the launch Enterjirise for the scene of his investi- 
 gations — our party being "Witti, Frank, and I, with Smith, the man of 
 ' underground knowledge,' and a squad of some dozen natives to act 
 as guards and labourers. A fine day and smooth sea, and we quickly 
 steamed the thirty odd miles to the mouth of the Sequati River from 
 Abai. We landed in the Abai station-boat, and set to work to pick 
 a camping-ground and land all the stores, tents, and gear, and then at 
 noon got our breakfasts. To our disgust, about half-way through the 
 meal, do^\^l came the rain in the determined way it has in those 
 regions, and continued off and on all day ; and what was worse, a 
 strong wind set in from the west, kicking up a heavy sea that didn't 
 promise a pleasant retuni passage for Witti and me. We all ' worked 
 like blacks,' and by the afternoon had set up Frank's tent, put up a 
 shelter for Smith and the men, and managed to arrange a protection 
 and covering for the stores, &c. Witti, Smith, and I, being old stagers, 
 " growled " a good deal over the ill-luck of getting such an inoppor-
 
 138 North Borneo. 
 
 after the steam-lauDcli left, managed to fix up them- 
 selves well with " kajangs," and to light a good fire. 
 
 tune soaking ; but to Frank, in his ' gay ' youth, the whole adventure 
 was Avhat might be called a * lark,' and in spite of dripping garments 
 and soaked tent and stores, he was beaming with delight on his first 
 step of 'life in the bush.' I got his canteen out and cooked him a 
 ' Gold Coast ' stew. I used to superintend the kitchen of our ' three- 
 ofiicer-company mess ' on the march to Coomassie in 1874, and remem- 
 bered what a good thing a camp stew used to be. To Frank this was 
 intensely interesting and amusing, and I found him a ready pupil in 
 the art. In spite of the pouring rain, which seemed determined to 
 spoil all our cooking, we prepared quite a nice little feast, to which we 
 all did full justice, as any one can fancy — a real ducking being a 
 tremendous appetizer. Having finished our dinner, and wound up 
 the repast with a ' dhrop of the crathur,' just to keep off the damp, 
 Witti and I prepared to return to our ship, and after a hard row got 
 off to her, waving adieux to the ' petroleurs ' we had left dripping, 
 but cheery, on shore. By this time a heavy sea was running, and we 
 had to steam against it in the teeth of the wind, and very bad weather 
 we made of it. At times the little launch positively stood still, and 
 seemed to shake her head at the opposing elements. It was close on 
 3 a.m. before we got back to Abai, for besides making the very slowest 
 Avay against wind and sea, Ave unluckily, in the dark, ran past the 
 mouth of the Abai harbour, and did not discover our mistake until 
 we had gone on over two miles. Luckily, Witti was an excellent 
 sailor in every sense, and we got in without mishap. Anything Hke 
 the knocking about we had I have never experienced. Amidst the 
 whistling wind and drenching rain I wondered how the Sequati party 
 was getting on, and whether the tent had given in, and if Frank and 
 company were searching the neighbouring bush for their scattered 
 properties and seeking shelter there from the elements. However, we 
 afterwards heard that they had had a fair night, and had made much 
 better weather of it on shore than we had at sea. The bush at the 
 mouth of the Sequati River is of the low mangrove order, backed up 
 farther inland by the regular forest jungle and the low hills, covered 
 with Lalang grass, that stretch right away to the mountain range. The 
 mouth of the river is protected from the westerly weather by a small 
 red-earthed point jutting out into the sea, the entrance to the river 
 being covered by a bar. The passage in, winds through rocks, making
 
 On the Scquaii and Kuiina Rivers. 1 39 
 
 There was a tremendous sea at the time on tlie bar, 
 and, as night drew on, this sea increased. My sensa- 
 tions on camping out for the first time on a wild coast, 
 far from all civilization, were very curious. The pic- 
 turesque natives, with their swarthy complexions, 
 seated round their fires, the wild breakers roarino- on 
 the beach fifty yards away from my tent, the sound 
 of insects in the adjacent jungle, all these things 
 made up an impressive and,' to me, novel experi- 
 ence. My policemen killed two centipedes, and the 
 insects were rather a nuisance. The strata on the 
 beach, I noticed, dipped at a very high angle. I was 
 rather disappointed with the quantity of petroleum 
 floating on the river, but a good quantity of gas seemed 
 to be bubbling up at the spring (? C02 cH^ sHg). Smith 
 found oil extending from strata just above the oil in 
 the river. This night the men did not want to watch. 
 I made them take two hours apiece, and after a little 
 difficulty they acquiesced. 
 
 The next day was Sunday. I got up at five o'clock ; 
 the morning very fine. I felt most uncomfortable in 
 my tent. All the canvas was hanging down, owing 
 to the ropes giving way. Started Smith and the men 
 making a house the first thing in the morning. The 
 men were felling wood all day. The heat was intense, 
 and at noon the thermometer stood at 92° in my tent . 
 The men worked well, and by two o'clock I had a good 
 
 a rather picturesque spot,*tlie break of the sea over the bar and rocks 
 varying the eternal monotony of the lone sea-shore, and, in spite of all 
 the disagreeables, I felt sure Frank would be pleased. Shortly after 
 tliis little excursion, I returned to Labuan, having been suniinoned to 
 meet Colonel Grossman, R.E., who was expected out to report on the 
 coiist defences of Borneo."
 
 140 North Borneo. 
 
 " atap" roofed, " kajanged " walled house up. It was 
 interesting to watch the way the men built it. Two 
 large stakes, twenty feet long, were driven firmly into 
 the ground, and then four shorter ones, one on each 
 side of the main poles. At the top of the two short 
 poles a cross-pole was fixed, and tied firmly in its 
 place with split rattans. Two more cross-poles were 
 then fixed on, and some split bamboos tied on the out- 
 side of the kajangs and fixed on with rattans. With 
 ataps roofed on well, the house was quite home-like and 
 comfortable away out in the wilds of Borneo. I had 
 a flagstaff fixed up close to the house, and the "Sabah 
 flag " run up. The men managed to make themselves 
 very comfortable by six o'clock, and after this I went 
 for a stroll along the beach. I noticed numerous 
 tracks of very large monkeys, which Smith said were 
 " orang-utan " tracks ; a large flock of brown eagles 
 flew over us at sundown. I had the " head man " up, 
 and gave him some sardines, tea, and milk, at which 
 he was much pleased. But he pointed out to me 
 that it was impossible for the men to work at 
 night (i.e. watch) and in the day also. On thinking 
 over the matter, I determined to dispense with the 
 sentinel, as all hands would be required to make the 
 " oil dock." I therefore told him that it did not 
 matter watching. On coming back from a stroll, 
 however, at eight o'clock, I found " Tulis," one of the 
 best of the coolies I got from Labuan, had put a 
 fellow, one of the Tampassuk policemen, on guard, 
 and he was standing under the flagstaff with his 
 Snider rifle. He saluted me, and I told him that I 
 did not want any one to sit up and watch. " Tulis," 
 however, said that this was a new country, filled with
 
 On the Sequati and Kiirina Rivers. r 4 1 
 
 " Muruts," " Dusuns," " Bajows," that the point was 
 frequented by " Sulu Pirates," and that the men were 
 afraid of people coming in the night. I showed him 
 my pistols, guns, &c., and told him we would watch, 
 and after this the men quieted down. The utter 
 loneliness of the sea-shore for miles and miles was 
 depressing, although we sighted three prahus to-day 
 on the extreme horizon. 
 
 'Nov. 21. — Got up at six o'clock and started Smith and 
 all the men cutting trees to make a dock round the 
 main oil spring.^ The tide was quite out, and it was 
 raining a little. I had a hole dug, one foot deep by 
 two feet wide and long, at the main oil spring. Oil 
 bubbled up freely. There was a thickness of four 
 inches of oil floating: on mud and water saturated with 
 oil, in a few minutes. In five hours a double row of 
 stakes was planted all round the oil, but as it was 
 raining in torrents, and as the tide was coming in, I 
 stopped the men working at eleven o'clock. I gave them 
 a dose of quinine all round. It rained heavily all day, 
 so that nothing could be done in the afternoon. I 
 went up into the jungle above the oil spring, but was 
 unsuccessful in finding a spring or any section. The 
 whole place is densely wooded, and it was with the 
 greatest difficulty I made my way along. There 
 is about four feet of superficial yellow clay over- 
 lying the sandstone. The sandstone itself I should 
 think was of recent origin, as it contains bands of 
 ■ blue clay in which fossils of tertiary age have been 
 found. It is also veined through and through witli 
 oxide of iron, in bands and in concretionary nodules. 
 
 ' At lliis place a plan for investigating the oil was drawn in detail 
 and explained.
 
 142 North Borneo. 
 
 In many places the weathering of this ferric oxide has 
 stained the sand yellow and red. " Pockets " of blue 
 clay also occur. The sandstone is quite destitute of 
 organic remains : perhaps the fossils have been de- 
 stroyed by oxide of iron. I took samples of the rock 
 along the Kurina to-day, for about 100 yards on the 
 left bank ; and in doing so I came upon a very thin 
 seam of impure coal (about an inch thick). I also ob- 
 served that the shale (at the foot of the rocks on the 
 left bank of the Kurina) for about 20 feet, contained 
 oil. The length of the dock round the "Sequati" 
 main oil spring is 20 feet by 18 feet 3 inches. This 
 is the richest portion of the shale. 
 
 It rained up till eight o'clock to-day, so no work 
 could be done. The tide was very high. If it rains 
 much more, I am afraid the river will swell and overflow 
 its banks. The boring machine was got in order, oiled 
 and covered up to-day, and some more kajangs put on 
 my house as the rain was coming in heavily. Just 
 before dinner there was an alarm, " a prahu is coming," 
 but on looking out with my glass I made it out to be a 
 Nipa palm floating ashore. 
 
 11. 
 
 There was a large crane standing out in the sea 
 when I left my hut at six the next morning. It rained 
 most of the day, but towards evening it cleared up. I 
 told Smith to make a square dock round the main oil 
 spring, and when he had puddled with clay up to high- 
 water mark, to sink a pit. This was begun to-day. 
 The stakes are in and well filled up with green boughs. 
 The clay is near at hand, a ferruginous clay very fit
 
 On the Sequati and Kurina Rivers. 143 
 
 for tlie purpose. The pit is now three feet deep and the 
 oil is bubbhng up very freely. I propose to tap the 
 shale, that is strike the shale, and then run a level 
 under the water to the other springs close at hand. 
 It is very difficult and hard work, as everything must 
 be done at low water in the morning. 
 
 I had a hole drilled at the outcrop of the seam of 
 lignite on the left bank of the so-called Kurina River. 
 [I learnt to-day that both of these rivers are called 
 Sequati. Two hours' rowing takes one to the swamp 
 in which the Sequati proper rises ; that is the Sequati 
 in which the oil occurs. I rowed up this river for 
 about two miles to-day. The whole country is a 
 gigantic swamp. Plenty of Nipa palms. Met with 
 no people, but there were stakes for fishing fixed up, 
 showing that the inhabitants do come down the river 
 on fishing excursions.] I put a charge of powder in. 
 On exploding with the magnetic-electro exploder I 
 found that the seam is of no account. Only three 
 small veins of half an inch thick. The sandstone is 
 full of this black carbonaceous matter, which indeed is 
 neither a true coal nor a true lignite. Pockets of this 
 substance are to be found in the sandstone, as also 
 pockets of a blue plastic clay, and nodules of oxide of 
 iron. Wherever water runs out of the sandstone from 
 the side of a hill or elsewhere, stalactites of oxide of 
 iron are found, which consist of almost pure Fer. Ox. 
 I took a set of specimens of the local rock to-day, and 
 two photographs of the place* — one of my hut and 
 one of the boring machine. Everything gets very 
 mouldy, and living on a sand-heap is not pleasant. 
 
 ^ These and otlier photographs have not yet been found.
 
 144 North Borneo. 
 
 This evening one of the men shot a large bat, called 
 " flying fox," or Cubong, by the natives. 
 
 The pit is now eight feet down. The dock is 
 eighteen feet by twenty feet, all of which had to be 
 puddled with clay and leaves. The pit is six feet 
 square and eight feet deep, timbered with what few 
 planks we have, and the rest with trees. The rock is 
 now a grey sandstone saturated with oil, and we have 
 only one pick and one shovel, as the men cannot use 
 my boring picks and shovels. The work is therefore 
 very difiicult, although good progress is made. The 
 oil bubbles up well now, water and a little sulphurated 
 hydrogen come up. Smith took a few pieces of coal 
 out to-day. I think we shall shortly strike coal. I 
 made a blow-pipe examination of the chloritic mineral 
 that Witti gave me, and found it to be anhydrous 
 silicate of magnesia and iron, with much carbonate of 
 lime. Therefore olivine with calcic carbonate. Smith 
 also took some hard pieces of rock out of the pit, which 
 I shall examine to-morrow. I went up the so-called 
 *'Kurina" river to-day for about a mile and a half. 
 It is a fine wide river lined with trees. Not very 
 deep. 
 
 When we were all over at the pit to-day, about four 
 o'clock, my boy Abdul cried out, " Orang Dusuns," 
 seized his rifle, and rushed out. All I could see from 
 over the water was two spears outside the door of our 
 hut. Smith and two or three of our men jumped 
 into a sampan and pushed for the other side. I seized 
 an oar and ran up. Two inoffensive Dusuns were 
 standing trembling outside my door with their spears 
 leant up against the wall. We asked them what they 
 wanted. They said they were out fishing, and where
 
 On the Seqiiati and Ktwrna Rivei's. 145 
 
 was tlie Captain ? After a little I made friends Avith 
 them, showed them some pictures, photographs, a 
 looking-ghiss, my guns, Winchester rifle, and gave 
 them a shock from my magnetic electro machine, which 
 astonished them very much. They talked together, 
 examined my clothes, and the constant repetition of 
 " Orang puti " (white men) told us how astonished 
 they were to find us here. They said they would 
 come back in two days with eggs, fowls, &c. I gave 
 them some buttons and a box of matches, which they 
 liked very much. They were dressed in coarse blue 
 " Dusun " cloth breeches and jacket ; a basket slung 
 at their backs, a parong round their waists, and a 
 spear, with a wooden point protector, in their hands. 
 They shook hands with me a long time, and seemed 
 very sorry to go. My boy told me afterwards that 
 there were three men, only one ran away on seeing a 
 man with a gun ready to fire. 
 
 Thursday, the 24th, was a heavy, cloudy day. It 
 cleared up after a time, but still remained all day heavy, 
 cloudy, and showery. This is the fourth day's work, 
 and the pit is now eight feet deep. The oil is coming 
 out in little streams from the sandstone. There is no 
 iron in the rock through which the pit is being sunk, 
 nor any iron concretions. Pockets of " Brown coal" 
 or lignite are found at intervals. I examined a 
 specimen to-day. It was saturated with oil ; it also 
 gave off much oil and gas itself. It burns without 
 smoke. I secured specimens of the " oil shale or sand- 
 stone " to-day, and intend to examine them to-morrow. 
 The strata through which we are digging dips at the 
 same angle (i.e. 40°) as that exposed at the mouth of the 
 Sequati River. One of the men brought nio a very fine 
 
 L
 
 146 North Borneo. 
 
 beetle to-day. The oil is coming out of the sandstone 
 at I should say five gallons in twelve hours now, and 
 each foot of increased depth increases, the supply of 
 oil. 
 
 in. 
 
 I shot three "flying foxes" this evening. The men 
 from Tampassuk said they would not work to-morrow 
 (Friday) as they regard this as a holiday or Sunday in 
 Tampassuk. Smith and I utilized the day therefore 
 for an exploring and sporting expedition. Two men 
 came with us, one carried my rifle and some lunch. 
 Altogether we were a formidable party. Four men, 
 each with his gun, two large Colt's revolvers, and two 
 swords, made up our list of arms. All the men came 
 out to see us start, and about half-past six we trudged 
 merrily out of camp. Tbe weather was charming, and 
 as we walked along the smooth sandy beach the fast- 
 rising sun cast long shadows across our path. The 
 beach for six miles is unequalled. About 100 yards, at 
 low water, of perfectly smooth firm sand without an 
 obstacle or obstruction of any kind. Tall cazurina 
 trees, something like Scotch firs, line the shore, and 
 just behind these the dense unt ravelled jungle stretches 
 away inland. The waves break with a splendid roar 
 along the beach, and this is the only sound to be heard 
 on these lonely coasts. As we walked along we saw 
 numerous tracks of wild cattle, wild boars, deer, and 
 tortoise, but never caught sight of any game at all. 
 The native with us said that night was the time to 
 come out, so we promised ourselves good sport on the 
 morrow. There was one old grey crane that kept 
 standinof in the water in front of us about half a mile
 
 On the Scqiiati and Knrina Rivers. 
 
 H7 
 
 away and letting us get within 500 yards of liim, and 
 then flying away. He was an awfully sharp old bird ; 
 it was impossible to get a shot at him, so after several 
 unsuccessful stalks we paid no further attention to 
 him. We crossed several small streams, and on one of 
 
 ELK S-H()R\ KEUN, AND NATIVE DUSUNS 
 
 these there were half a dozen huts thatched with nipa 
 palm leaves roughly plaited together. The hovels 
 were about four feet high in front from top to ground ; 
 the roof was supported on stakes, and the floor of tree 
 trunks cut in half. The houses were open in front and 
 at the sides, and the natives (Dusuns) had evidently 
 
 L 2
 
 148 North Borneo. 
 
 been engaged in salt-making. Their " boiling. pans," 
 made of the bark of a palm-tree, lay strewn about, 
 but the place bad been deserted for some time. We 
 continued our walk along towards a point which we 
 had seen in the dim distance at starting. It is down 
 on the map Kaliga Point ; there is a good -sized river 
 here not marked on the map. Smith reminded me 
 that we were walking now where " white men had 
 probably never trod before," and of course I was 
 suitably impressed. Just at the point the rock changes, 
 the sandstone no longer containing oxide of iron, which 
 extends from Labuan all up the coasts of Borneo to the 
 Sequati River ; at Kaliga Point the rock is a grey 
 limestone containing veins of quartz, and overlaid by a 
 ferruginous, yellow clay. This rock extends to the 
 base of the promontory which ends in Sampanmangio 
 Point. There is another good-sized river here, and 
 across this river the rock appeared to be sandstone 
 aofain. A resrular series of sandstones and limestones, 
 the sandstones being of more recent origin than the 
 limestones, would seem to be the geological condition 
 of things. Both these rocks contain much oxide 
 of iron, the sandstone being inters tratified with a 
 compact blue clay. 
 
 IV. 
 
 At the point we met two men and a woman who were 
 making salt. On our approach they all made off, but 
 after much coaxing they screwed up courage enough 
 to come and talk with us. They spoke in Dusun to 
 our man, and he asked them who was their chief, and' 
 where he lived. They pointed round the Limestone 
 Point (Kaliga?), and said that Pangeran Brunei was 
 their head man. We made up our minds to see Pangeran
 
 On the Sequati and Kiu'ina Riz'e7's. 149 
 
 Brunei, so off we set again. Instead of keeping to the 
 coast, we made a " short cut " over the hill, throusrh a 
 native jungle path, which is, as a rule, the bed of some 
 mountain sti%am, with here and there a tree cut down. 
 In our case it was not even so good as this. It was 
 a long climb through tangled jungle; great leaves 
 hitting one in the face, and thorns running into one's 
 clothes and tearing one's flesh ; everything dripping 
 with water, and the sun only finding its way in here 
 and there through the dense mass of foliage overhead. 
 The soil was soft clay, covered with wet, dead leaves ; 
 for tropical vegetation, instead of shedding its leaves 
 decently once a year, sheds them in small portions all 
 the year round, and their place is supplied by new ones 
 as the old ones drop off. Of course we got lost in the 
 jungle ; I knew we should before we went in, and, of 
 course, no one had brought a compass. After a con- 
 sultation on the best plan to be adopted for getting 
 out, I thought I could just hear the waves breaking on 
 the beach below us. We walked in the direction of 
 the sound, and three quarters of an hour's climbing, 
 slipping, and sliding brought us out on a coral beach, 
 strewn with limestone boulders. I was surprised to 
 see so little life in a tropical jungle. Where were the 
 gorgeous birds, the parrots, the deer, the snakes of 
 which I had so often read ? I saw nothinof at all in 
 our jungle ; and with the exception of a few monkeys 
 and some sea birds, we saw no animal of any kind the 
 whole day. We now sat down on- a piece of drift- 
 wood on the " coral strand of Borneo," and partook 
 of biscuits and potted meat, spreading the meat on the 
 biscuits with our bowie knives in true backwoodsman- 
 like style. After a short rest and a drink, " not of water
 
 1 50 North Borneo. 
 
 from the crystal Ijrook," but of brandy from a flask, 
 we started for the Pangeran's *' palace." We found 
 the place at the mouth of the river I mentioned above. 
 It was only three Malay houses built on f ooden piles, 
 each tide washing right under the place. We went 
 up into the Pangeran's house. The old man was ill, 
 his son told us. But after a time the mosquito 
 curtains in which he was lying were drawn aside, and 
 we saw a thin, pale yellow, haggard man stretched on 
 a bed. Two women, his wife (or at least one of them), 
 were attending on him, and his sons and servants 
 occupied the other parts of the room. The Pangeran 
 was a broken-down man, a debauchee, old before his 
 time, and evidently dying. He showed us two large 
 swellings on his legs (which I think were tumours), 
 and asked us if we could give him some medicine. I 
 told him we would send him some. He spoke Malay 
 very well, and was once, when he lived up-country, in 
 the habit of visiting the Tampassuk Residency. The 
 Pangeran's house was in reality only one large room ; 
 the floor made of split bamboos or rattans. Native 
 matting was put over this ; but, still, walking about 
 was very dangerous, not only dangerous from holes 
 through which one might drop through into the river 
 below, but also from the low roof. I hit my head 
 once or twice against the beams supporting the roof, 
 and so I gave up trying to walk upright, and sat down 
 Turkish fashion, as the people of the house were doing. 
 The room was full of a motley collection of things. 
 Several dozen large cakes of beeswax about a foot in 
 diameter, stones arranged in squares for cooking, and 
 cooking utensils of the most primitive pattern, four or 
 five old Tower muskets, two coats of chain and plate
 
 On the Seqtiati and Kurina Rivers. 1 5 1 
 
 armour, made by the Sulus, and of surprising good 
 workmanship. Two looms for making native cloth 
 occupied one portion of the room, and the Pangeran's 
 daughter sat down at one of these and worked a while 
 for our amusement. The cloth when finished is very 
 strong, but not at all aesthetic. The colours are red, 
 white, yellow, and black, and the cotton is grown here 
 and dyed here also. 
 
 I now thought it was time to come to the true object 
 of our visit, which was to borrow a prahu to sail back 
 ten miles (the distance we had walked) to the Sequati 
 River. At first the old man was not inclined to let us 
 have it, but we told him that if he helped the white 
 man, the white man would help him ; and after a little 
 talk he told us we could have a big prahu which was 
 beached a short distance from the house. "We then 
 took our leave, and invited the Pangeran to come to 
 Sequati. He said his son should come, but that they 
 had only lived in their present quarters four months. 
 They used to live inland, and they had come down 
 here from some cause or other which we could not get 
 out of him. It was after superhuman exertions for 
 more than half an hour that we managed to get the 
 heavy prahu launched, and then we only made verj- slow 
 progress, as she leaked, and there was no wind. How- 
 ever, we rounded the point at last, and then the 
 Pangeran's son said he would land us and let us walk 
 back to Sequati, a walk of about six miles along a 
 sandy beach at one o'clock in the day, with the sun 
 blazing down upon us ; loaded as we were with arms, 
 this was not a pleasant prospect. However, nothing 
 would induce him to bring the prahu on, as he said he 
 would never get back. We therefore got out, waded
 
 152 North Borneo. 
 
 ashore, and began our tramp. I sliall never forget 
 my sufferings. Not a drop of anything to drink, 
 carrying a heavy rifle, walking on wet sand in which 
 the hot sun was reflected back on one's face with two- 
 fold intensity. I trudged on steadily, the perspiration 
 streaming from every pore. The thermometer must 
 have been about 150° in the sun. At length 1 saw 
 our flag at the station, and I arrived home at half -past 
 three, quite tired out. Shortly after five, just as it 
 was getting dark, the head man of the tribe of Dusuns, 
 living up the Luru River (the river at the mouth of 
 which Pangeran Brunei is now living), arrived with 
 about forty of his men. They were all eager to trade. 
 They brought eggs (.of ancient date), fowls born, I 
 should say, ten years ago, kaladi, ginger, camphor, 
 betel, and other things which we exchanged for an 
 old coat, brass buttons, empty bottles, and preserved 
 meat tins. These latter articles went best, although 
 *' kain " (cloth) was what they wanted most. All the 
 men were armed with spears, and they refused to take 
 anything in exchange for their weapons. They were 
 dressed in Dusun cloth, and they crowded round my 
 hut, peeping in and examining everything with envious 
 eyes. I invited the chief in, and Smith fed him with 
 jam and biscuits and tea. I think he would have 
 eaten a tin of biscuits if we had let him. He seemed 
 also to relish tea very much. He said he had never 
 seen a white man before ; and, considering this, he 
 did not seem much astonished. I think he was dis- 
 appointed with our colour, for after our walk in the 
 sun both Smith and I were rather brown. I had a 
 man on guard all night, as tlie Dusuns seemed to take 
 more interest than was quite necessary in our tea-
 
 Oil the Scpiati and Kurina Rivers. 153 
 
 tilings and cooking utensils. They went away and 
 left us alone about eight o'clock, and I was not sorry 
 to see the last of them. Several of the men went out 
 wild-cattle shooting. They saw two cattle and a deer, 
 but missed all three. Smith and I are going out to- 
 morrow. It was a splendid day all day. The pit is 
 getting on well, four men only were at work to-day, 
 but by to-morrow I think we shall lie above high- 
 water mark. This is the great difficulty ; when we 
 are sure of the tides we can get on quite well. I am 
 sure we shall find coal in the hill, or at least below the 
 oil. The point before the Luru river is composed of 
 limestone, very impure, containing much silica and 
 iron. Mr. Witti's green chloritic mineral, which I 
 found out to be anhydrous silicate of magnesia and 
 "iron, also occurs there in limestone. It is a decom- 
 posing chrysolite. 
 
 'Nov. 25. — The pit was timbered to-daj^ up to above 
 high- water mark. It is now ten feet deep, and eight 
 feet high. The puddling still goes on. Much oil and 
 water comes up through the bottom now, and I am 
 afraid that without proper machinery we will not be 
 able to do much. Smith and I went out wild-cattle 
 shooting to-night. The lonely beach, with the wild 
 breakers thundering down, the tall, gaunt trees, the 
 silence unbroken except by the steady roll of the waves, 
 and the whole effect was very impressive. We shot 
 nothing, however, which was rather disappointing. 
 'J'he heavy tropical dew fell upon us and wet us to the 
 skin, although the sky was quite clear and the moon 
 shining. 
 
 Sunday, Nov. 2G. — I am now confident that the 
 ])etruleuni exudes from coal seams in the clay in the
 
 1 54 • North Borneo. 
 
 sandstone. A few pieces more of first-rate coal 
 (pockets) were taken out to-day. We had a great 
 disappointment to-day, as tlie pit was again full of 
 water. Impossible to say at present whether the tide 
 got in, or whether the water came from below. The 
 men I have divided into two shifts, one night and one 
 day. 
 
 The rock from the point this side of the Ruru River 
 is really a " calcareous sandstone," that is a quartz and 
 ore sandstone having a cement of carbonate of lime, 
 that is a very impure limestone. 
 
 The pit was sunk two and a half feet to-day. Three 
 shots were tried ; my machine failed twice. Why, I 
 don't know. Some more coal was taken up to-day. 
 There is but little water and a great deal of oil coming 
 up, so the tide did get in last night. It has been 
 showery to-day, and the monsoon is blowing strong. 
 The insects and the sand are a great trouble in our 
 little house. 
 
 V. 
 
 I went down the pit on Monday. ' It is about sixteen 
 feet deep, and very dry. Timber is being put in. The 
 shale w^s all laid bare to-day. It is a bed of true shale 
 (i.e. hardened clay) saturated with petroleum. The 
 oil is coming out of the sides of the pit in streams. 
 The shale is about a yard wide, and is interstratified 
 with the sandstone of the district, which is itself full 
 of oil. All the beds down the shaft dip at the same 
 angle as those exposed on the surface (i.e. 40° N.W. 
 and S.W.). The " blower " which we followed down 
 is now two or three feet up the side of the pit. It 
 yields little oil now, as the oil is coming out all round
 
 On the Seqiiati and Kitrina Rivers. 155 
 
 the sides ; but mucli gas. The gas is inflammable, 
 burns with a slightly luminous, not smoky, flame, which 
 is yellow on the top and blue at the base. It has but 
 little smell. I therefore conclude that it is marsh gas 
 (cH^), C02(?), C0(?), and perhaps some little oil 
 carried up mechanically. This gas probably comes 
 from a seam of coal not far distant. 
 
 Mr. Witti, in his diary, speaking of the oil, says he 
 went down two yards (i.e. six feet), and yet he says 
 that lie " cannot say on what that formation " (i.e. the 
 superficial red clay) " may rest." Now at the place 
 where Mr. Witti dug his " improvised well," there is 
 about a foot thickness of soft river mud resting on 
 the grey (non-ferruginous) sandstone. Had Mr. Witti 
 sunk a hole as far as he thinks, he could not have failed 
 to come upon this rock. Again he says, " in digging 
 we now and then came on pieces of very massive 
 lignite." Now we dug down ten feet and found one 
 pocket of lignite ; and at fourteen feet a small " pocket " 
 of true coal ; the whole weighing, about one ounce. 
 ^Mr. Witti says, " the clayey soil itself was then found 
 highly bituminous for a surface extent of eighty square 
 yards." ... " Outside those eighty square yards no 
 bitumen could be found." The real state of the case 
 is that for about 100 yards the river mud on the Mght- 
 hand bank contains indications of petroleum. This 
 has probably been washed by the tides from the portion 
 where my pit was sunk. This would not therefore 
 give any idea of the true outcrop of the shale, which 
 iu reality has no outcrop at all. The soil in the shale 
 has found its way up through tlie overlying sandstone, 
 wliicli has gradually become saturated. The ascent 
 of the petroleum has also been assisted by gas, which
 
 1 5 6 No rth Do 7'neo . 
 
 probably finding its Avay up from some coal seam, 
 carried up the petroleum mechanically. I took samples 
 of the shale to-day, and also the sandstone for analysis. 
 Curious, the absence of oxide of iron in the pit. The 
 heading will be begun to-morrow. Had a bother with 
 the 'man in the prahu to-day. He refused to give 
 up Kajangs, he was ill also. Gave him SO.Mg. 
 Made compass survey of river to-day ; finish it 
 to-morrow. Heading going to be cut through the dip 
 of the strata following the gas blower. 
 
 On the next day I had door-heads of mine partly put 
 in. Sandstone and shale still yield much oil. Search- 
 ing for coal, every prospect of finding it. Another 
 pocket of lignite taken out to-day. Heading driven in 
 three feet. I made a map of the district and got it 
 coloured in. Prahu passed, went out to her in the 
 Singapore Sampan. She was twenty days away from 
 Sandakan. No rain at all ; fine day and night. 
 
 Saturday, Dec. 2nd. — Went down the pit, the heading 
 of which was four feet square. I stopped as the picks 
 had cut through two feet of blue clay and come upon 
 the bed rock again. The bed rock here is the non- 
 ferruginous sandstone, full of oil and containing innu- 
 merable little veins of lignite. This may be the coal- 
 seam* " thinning out." I ordered the pit to be sunk 
 ten feet deeper, or at least until we have got through 
 the oil-bearing rock. With proper machinery to get 
 out the shale I should think that 100 gallons of oil 
 could be turned out daily. However, this can only be 
 ascertained by distillation of the shale in Labuan. 
 Both shale and oil-bearing sandstone must be tested 
 quantitatively for percentage of petroleum. I collected 
 soirie test tubes of gas which comes up in bubbles from
 
 On the Seqiiati and Kurina Rivers. 1 5 7 
 
 the river-bed in the immediate neighbourhood of the 
 shaft. The gas does (as I expected) carry up oil me- 
 chanically. It is itself a colourless, tasteless, and 
 inodorous gas. It is inflammable, is not to any extent 
 absorbed by potash, or bichromate of potash. It 
 burns with a blue flame, slightly tinged with yellow. 
 I therefore conclude that the gas is CH4, (CO, ?) with 
 perhaps some higher gaseous compounds of the marsh 
 gas series, such as C2H6 or CgHs which often exist in 
 connection with petroleum. Marsh gas itself is a very 
 common gas of coal-beds and bituminous deposits, so 
 that this gas may be rising from some thick coal seam, 
 or from the oil-bearing stratum. It rained heavily in 
 the night, but cleared towards the morning. 
 
 Sundcuj, Dec. Srd. — The high tide comes in to-night, 
 and as there was water in the pit last night all hands 
 were taken getting clay to-day. It rained heavily all 
 the afternoon and the whole of the night. Water 
 about five feet deep got into the pit. Everything was 
 done to get it out, and at five o'clock this morning the 
 pit was dry. A piece of one of the mineral resins was 
 found to-day in the sandstone at a depth of twenty- 
 four feet. I shall examine it at leisure. It is in a tin 
 and marked No. 1. A most interesting thing, perhaps 
 a new mineral ; if so, call it Hattonite. One of the 
 black men was very sick to-day, and I think he is down 
 with fever. 
 
 VT. 
 
 SECO^^l) Visit to Sequati. 
 
 Safiirdrn/, Dec. 24//i. — Christmas Eve. It rained only 
 a little, nothing happened. My leg was a little worse. 
 Sighted two prahus.
 
 158 North Borneo. 
 
 Sunday, Dec. 26th. — Cliristraas Day. Very hot. T 
 sat all day tormented with heat, bad foot, bad 
 mouth, insects, &c. Curious sensations of a hot 
 Christmas Day ; the sun blazing down, not a breath 
 of wind. The pit is down twenty-five feet now, and 
 much more oil is coming up ; but I am sorry to say 
 no coal. 
 
 Monday, Dec. 26tJi. — Boxing Day. Pit down twenty- 
 six feet. It rained in the morning. Two men went 
 out shooting, they hit a deer, but he got away. The 
 Dusuns came down to trade. " Kain" was again the cry, 
 and I gave a little cloth for some eggs. Kaladi, red 
 vegetables, in appearance something like pumpkins, 
 they called labu ; they taste like carrots and are rather 
 pleasant. Kaladi is a root something like an artichoke, 
 and tastes like starch. They also brought long sugar- 
 canes, Indian corn, some sugar melons, but nothing 
 really of any value. We took them over to the 
 pit, and one of the boldest went down on the 
 bucket. Most of them took pieces of stone away as 
 mementoes. 
 
 I examined that piece of mineral from Papar. It is 
 only iron injrites. It may contain a little gold and 
 silver, but very little. I will try it to-morrow. 
 
 I took to wearing a sarong to-day;^ they are very 
 comfortable and nice. A few pieces of coal were found 
 
 ^ The sarong is an oblong cloth : the ends sewn together make it a 
 sort of very broad skirt or kilt. It is tightened round the waist by a 
 few ingenious twists which practically make a belt ; so that the sarong 
 is a skirt and belt in one. The natives carry their knives in this belt. 
 The sarong reaches below the knees. The cloth is a native production 
 among the Dusuns. The Dyaks and Malays often have silk sarongs 
 from China.
 
 On the Scquati and Ktirina Rivers. 159 
 
 to-day, and the whole aspect of thmgs looks more 
 encouraging. 
 
 Tuesday, Dec. 27th. — It rained all the morning, but 
 ■was very hot towards the middle of the day. Thoughts 
 of home (provoked perhaps by the flies) possessed me 
 for a long time. The pit is now being squared down 
 prior to putting in timber. The sea is very calm. I 
 must take what photos I waat to-morrow, as I propose 
 to start on Saturday. The time flies herein the East; 
 perhaps it is monotony, although monotony should 
 make time leaden wino-s. 
 
 Wednesday, Dec. 28th. — About the middle of the 
 day a woman slave from Pangeran Brunei came in a 
 pitiful state to seek refage. She was wounded and 
 bruised in several places, and she said that if we 
 gave her back she would be killed. AVhat could I do ? 
 I could not send her back to a brutal Pang^eran to 
 be killed, so I decided to keep her, and send her 
 to Tampassuk. There was also a general petition 
 for me to keep her, as the men said she would be 
 killed if she were given back. We await the men 
 coming to fetch her. Shortly after four o'clock two 
 men came along the beach, armed with finely-made 
 krisses. I called to them, and they came into my 
 hut. One was Pangeran Brunei's son, an Ilaum. 
 Pangeran Brunei is from Brunei ; but his wife is an 
 Ilaum. They said the runaway woman was their 
 father's slave, and that she had been stealing beeswax. 
 I asked the woman if she had ; of course she said no. 
 Que never knows whom to believe, as truthfulness does 
 not form a part of a native's character. I had it 
 explained to them that white men would not harbour 
 thieves, but that I was not in a position to send the
 
 i6o North Borneo. 
 
 ■woman away as I did not know the facts of tlie case. 
 I would consult the woman's own wishes. If she 
 wanted to go back I was perfectly willing, but I would 
 not allow her to be taken away by force. The woman 
 was very much afraid she would be given back. She 
 said she would rather stay with us if we cut her up, than 
 go back with the Pangeran's son. The truth was, 
 I believe, that as soon as they got the poor creature 
 out of sight, they would have cut her head off, and 
 thrown her body either into the jungle or into the 
 sea. Who would ever have heard of it again? Ko 
 one ! Not a soul ever comes this way, and many atroci- 
 ties must be committed by despotic and tyrannical 
 chiefs. The chief in question is he we went to see 
 during our last stay at Siquati, and who lent us the 
 prahu. I thought of this, and so gave the son 
 some yards of cloth and a tin of Swiss milk. His 
 father is very ill, and I advised the son to take him 
 to Labuan. The man seemed to have but a very 
 vao'ue idea of where Labuan was, so I suppose the 
 old fellow without medicine will die. The men went 
 away about eight o'clock ; they said if the woman 
 would stay they supposed she must. Our people were 
 afraid that they had a lot of men in ambush, and that 
 they would come along in the middle of the night and 
 carry the woman off. I was tormented all night with 
 this, and, as I lay with my hand on my revolver, 
 I fell asleep, and had the most awful dreams of rivers 
 of blood, murders, battles, all curiously linked to- 
 o-ether by a strange story of adventures in the 'Sulu 
 Islands. 
 
 SatuQ'day, Dec. 31.s-f. — Started from Siquati at half- 
 past eight, and arrived at Luru at eleven o'clock. It
 
 On the Scquati and Kitrina Rivers. 1 6 1 
 
 rained a good deal ; but at Luru it began to rain 
 in torrents. We had nothing to eat, as I had sent 
 everything on in the sampan, and it had not yet 
 arrived. We found some turtles' eggs on the beach, 
 about 200. I ate of these and drank weak whisky and 
 water all that wretched day. At six o'clock the sam- 
 pan arrived, in the midst of pouring rain. Oh ! what 
 a wretched night I spent in a wet tent, everything 
 damp and getting spoilt. It rained all night, and I 
 felt very wretched. Pangeran Brunei was rather kind 
 to us on the whole, but I could not sleep in his 
 horrible house, the dirt and stench being something 
 too much. If ever I get home again I will never go 
 camping out in a wet climate again. The natives 
 were very curious about my tent. 
 
 VII. 
 
 Jan. l6'^, 1882. — If all beginnings of future new 
 years are as black as this one, I never wish to see 
 another.** Rain ! That's not the word for it. Abdul 
 unable to cook, everything wet and spoiling. What 
 I am to do if this continues I don't quite know. 
 Go back to Siquati I think. The rain, however, 
 cleared a little about ten o'clock, and we started away 
 lip the Luru River in the Pangeran' s prahu. After 
 about an hour and a half we were unable to get 
 further up the river. It is simply a creek like Siquati 
 and Kurina, flowing through immense mangrove 
 swamps. I got a sample of the river's bottom, but 
 it consisted simply of siliceous and argillaceous mud. 
 
 ^ Nothing of this appears in the report to the Company, nor in his 
 private letters home ; they are evidently notes intended to he read to 
 the family circle when he should have returned home. 
 
 M
 
 1 62 North Borneo. 
 
 I was carried some distance on the back of Housin, 
 my mandore, over swamps and mud, until we got 
 to the Hadji's house. He, the Hadji, lives on a 
 high hill, and I think he is rather a scamp. He 
 knows too much. He tried to intimidate me, I think, 
 for he said the jungle path was very bad, up to one's 
 waist in mud, rain, and slush ; also that there are many 
 snakes, and some very big ones. We soon, however, 
 found out the truth of the mud part of his warnings. 
 (He also said that he had heard that silver had been 
 found somewhere in the country.) The discomforts 
 of the afternoon were very great. For miles through 
 swamp, walking with clay over one's boot-tops, and 
 often sinking up to one's knees in mud and water. 
 Wet grass coming up to one's shoulders, and rain 
 falling all the way, added to the other miseries of the 
 journey. I got two Dusuns at the Hadji's, who helped 
 to carry my things. It was curious to see the rate 
 they got along at, barefooted and loaded as they were 
 with heavy burthens. At three o'clock we arrived at 
 a large Dusun house, like the one figured in Wallace's 
 " Australasia," — exterior of a Dyak village. I should 
 think a hundred men lived there, with their wives 
 and families. The headman was kind to us; he 
 brought eggs, bananas, sugar-cane for the men, 
 water, and other things. The house is really an im- 
 mense dormitory, there being one long passage with 
 all the rooms opening out on it, the other side being 
 occupied by a kind of verandah, which vvas given 
 to us. I was simply a nine-days' wonder. My boots, 
 my socks, clothes, hammock, my beer, biscuits, and 
 the way I ate with a knife and fork and plate, all were 
 objects of extreme curiosity. When I slept, the whole
 
 ^ c. .:.ii 
 
 DUSUNS AT A STUliAM. 
 
 Ti) lace piiHC 162.
 
 On the Scquati and Kiirina Rivers. 163 
 
 village came and watched, and sat laughing to each 
 other, and indeed they could not make me out. As 
 night came on they struck up a strange kind of music 
 on metal tambourines. A mysterious rhythm and tune 
 was apparent in it, and when I asked if this was 
 "mam mam" (i.e. larking), they said no, but a man 
 was sick, and they must play all night to keep away 
 evil spirits. I asked to see him, and after a time they 
 took me along to the other end of the house, where, 
 in a room intensely hot from a fire, which was kept 
 up in the centre, and which they said would also scare 
 away ghosts, was a fellow who I saw had a little fever. 
 I felt his pulse, and looked at his tongue, and to do 
 the latter I was obliged to hold the candle a little 
 near his face. His children, wife, and all the women 
 screamed for fear, and the children were obliged to 
 be taken away. I gave him a Cockle's pill and some 
 quinine, and in the morning he was well, and I was 
 very popular ; so much so that the whole village came 
 running to be doctored for sore feet, sore hands, skin 
 diseases, coughs, and what not. I advised the skin- 
 disease people to wash themselves, but they said they 
 did not like water. On the whole I was not sorry 
 to get to sleep, or rather to blow the candle out and 
 lie down. To sleep was impossible, for the noise of 
 pigs underneath the house, dogs howling all night, 
 now and then metal drums beating, and the hard 
 boards to lie on, all these things effectually banished 
 Morpheus. 
 
 Jan. 2nd, 1882. — In the morning the curiosity of 
 the natives, instead of abating, seemed to increase ; they 
 crowded around me, and watched every operation 
 of my toilette with wonder and astonishment. The 
 
 M 2
 
 164 North Borneo. 
 
 headman could only say two words of Malay (i.e. 
 haik, haih, tiicui — "Well, well, sir"); but these he 
 repeated to me over and over again with great delight, 
 laughing the while to himself in excess of good nature. 
 Some empty tins and bottles, and a few yards (six) of 
 cloth, made us tremendous friends, and I left with my 
 men at nine o'clock, shaking hands all round, and get- 
 ting four men to carry my things. We walked for a 
 long way up hill and down dale. The land was mostly 
 under cultivation with paddy (rice) and Indian corn, 
 which latter was very good eating. Now and then we 
 passed through a wood with but little undergrowth; 
 the trees, however, were very high, with long thin 
 stems. Stopped at twelve o'clock, as it was very hot, 
 at a house, and I drank a bottle of porter and ate a 
 pomolo (something like an enormous orange) with 
 much gusto. The natives were eager after the seeds 
 of the pomolo, and seemed to value them very much. 
 At 12.30 we continued our way, and arrived at 
 the Kudat Dusuns at one o'clock, a wretched house, the 
 dirt underneath the piles being only equalled by the 
 dirt under the roof. The Dusun women do all the 
 labour. All day long and far into the night the 
 work of threshing paddy and grinding Indian corn was 
 continued by these thrifty housewives. They thresh 
 paddy in a wooden bowl, being simply a log of wood 
 with a hollow made in it. Three women work at 
 this. One stamps the corn with a long stick of heavy 
 wood, and then hands the broken grains to the next 
 worker, who separates the chaff from the rice in a 
 shallow pan made of nipa-leaves and rattans. The 
 third takes the mixture of rice and paddy (i.e. rice 
 with the husk) which results from the last operation.
 
 On the Scquati and Kiwina Rivers. 165 
 
 and puts it in a similar shallow pan, where slie 
 separates the. rice from the husk by a peculiar move- 
 ment of the pan, accompanied with a jerk. Long 
 practice has made the women perfect at this, and 
 the men are equally perfect at doing nothing. 
 The ^v-omen use their left hand with equal facility to 
 their right, and indeed make no distinction. They 
 are covered with brass wire, the legs from the 
 ankles to the knees, and from the wrists to the 
 elbows, also wearing a collar of brass wire round the 
 neck.' 
 
 Every time they hammer the bracelets jingle, and at 
 night by the light of the burning resin (damar), which 
 casts a lurid glare round the rooms and passages of 
 the curious long low house, the whole scene was 
 peculiarly picturesque and fascinating. I had to bend 
 almost double to walk about, as the house is built 
 for Dusuns and not for wliite men. The roof was 
 covered with the smoke and dust of ages, there 
 being no chimneys or any attempt to conduct the 
 smoke from the cooking-fires away. It therefore curl's 
 up and hangs about the house, and finds its way out 
 through holes in the roof Here a man died during 
 the night, and the grief of the friends was very 
 genuine and deep. I wonder some epidemic does not 
 break out amongst these people, as the dirt beneath 
 the house is terrible. Pigs, fowls, cattle, dogs, and 
 other animals all accumulate their filth below the 
 
 ' Here the original diary finishes. The remainder of the notes are 
 part of an official report and " extracts from diary " furnished to 
 the Governor. The original diary, so far as it goes, is written in 
 an ordinary folio lialf-bound book, and it was evidently continued 
 in a similar volume, which is not forthcoming.
 
 1 66 Nor til B 07^160. 
 
 house, and the smell whicli rises is anything but 
 pleasant. f. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 Jan. 3rd. — We procured, some fresh men from the 
 Dusuns, and started for Kudat in the pouring rain at 
 eight o'clock. The direction was N.E. to E.N.E., and 
 the whole way through dense jungle. The Dusuns 
 quite missed their way many times, and no wonder, as 
 days of rain had converted all the valleys into swamps, 
 in which we waded up to our waists, through wet 
 undergrowth and amid pouring rain. The thorns and 
 the spines in the jungle caught my clothes, and I even 
 felt the weight of my pistol and my gun was a 
 dreadful nuisance. We struck the coast at a point 
 about seven miles south of the extreme point of Sam- 
 panmangio at 1.30, and arrived at Kudat at 3.30, tired 
 out, wet through, covered with mud, lank and hungry. 
 
 Jmi. 4th and 6th. — I remained at Kudat preparing 
 for my trip round Marudu Bay. AVhile staying here I 
 found a very rich ironstone in the hill from where the 
 Kudat workmen get their drinking-water — I should 
 think fifty to sixty per cent, of iron, or even more. If 
 coal is discovered in the bay, this may at some future 
 date be worth working. It is at all events worth 
 noting. The ore is a hard dark oxide of iron, and 
 occurs in the tertiary sandstone. 
 
 Ja7i. 6th. — We left Kudat at 9.S0 in the Sarawak 
 prahu from Abai, en route for Tertipan, in the extreme 
 S.S.E. of Marudu Bay. There the natives say there 
 is good coal. After a brisk sail over the green waters 
 of the bay, we arrived at Sheriff Ali's Kampong at the 
 mouth of the Tertipan Eiver. The Sheriff did not
 
 On the Scqiiati and Knrina Rivers. 167 
 
 treat us with any show of friendship, and asked me 
 what I wanted and where I was going. I explained 
 that I required guides to go up to the source of the 
 Tertipan River, as I had learned there was coal there. 
 The Sheriff asked me what the Company would give 
 him as compensation if they worked minerals in his 
 country. I evaded this by saying I would like to see 
 whether the mineral in question was any good or 
 not, and so Sheriff Ali agreed to wait my inspection 
 
 THE ENTEEPEISE IN ABAI nARBOUE. 
 
 (Braivn by Helen H. Hatton. From a sketch by Col. Harington.) 
 
 before he fixed the amount he would require. Alto- 
 gether I don't think Slieriff Ali is a great friend of the 
 Company. 
 
 Jan. 7th. — I started away early in the morning with 
 some native guides, and three of my own men, to the 
 source of the Tertipan River. After about two hours' 
 walking along a cattle-track we arrived at the foot of 
 the hill where the river rises. This hill is about 700 feet 
 high, and there is a capital section exposed at the stream. 
 The Tertipan River rises near the top and rushes
 
 1 68 North Bo7"neo. 
 
 down the thickly -wooded side of the hill, over a very 
 rocky bed. " Here is the coal," said my guide, when 
 we had got nearly to the top, pointing to some large 
 black boulders in the middle of the stream. I saw at 
 once that the mineral was not coal, and on breaking 
 a piece and examining with the glass, I recognized 
 serpentine. A little higher up the river I found the 
 rock in situ, occurring with a f unginous dolomite which 
 weathers brown. The serpentine is brined very much 
 with quartz, and the stream was full of rolled pebbles 
 of this mineral. 
 
 4 
 
 IX. 
 
 At a future date it will be advisable to clear some 
 jungle here and search this district with the boring- 
 machine. I found no other minerals, save iron pyrites, 
 in the quartz in the stream. We retraced our steps 
 and got back to Sheriff All's house at 12.30, when I 
 told him his minerals were " no good." At one o'clock 
 we left in the prahu and arrived at the mouth of the 
 Bongon River at three. 
 
 Arrived at Sheriff Ibea's town of Bongon at ten 
 o'clock at night. 
 
 Jan. Sth. — I spent the day in paying visits to the 
 various Sheriffs. Sheriff Shea, Sheriff Mohameb, and 
 Sheriff " Hamid " all received me very kindly. I pro- 
 cured four buffaloes and intend to start for Timbong 
 Batu to-morrow to take a preliminary view of the 
 country before going into the interior, which I shall do 
 in the dry season. 
 
 Jan. 9th. — Left Bongon at 10 a.m. My party con- 
 sisted of myself and five men. "We arrived at Datu 
 Malunad's kampong at twelve after a hard ride on
 
 On the Scqiiati and Kni'ina Rivers. i6g 
 
 buffaloes, sinking often up to our knees in mud, 
 altliough seated on tlie top of our " steeds." Datu 
 Malunad is a son of Datu Malunad of Tamemisan, on 
 tte south-west of Marudu Bay. The rain began very 
 soon after we left Data Malunad's, and continued to 
 fall in torrents all the way to Timpong Batu, where 
 we arrived at four o'clock wet throug^h and covered 
 with mud. Riding on buffaloes is picturesque but not 
 pleasant, trying all the time to keep one's seat, avoid 
 fallen trees, and the constant danger of having one's 
 head taken off by overhanging branches with one's 
 feet hanging down without support, and altogether in 
 a most precarious situation. 
 
 Jan. 10th. — The Timbong Batu Dusuns treated us 
 very kindly, and this morning, as it was fine, for two 
 hours I went out to examine the river bed. This was 
 the only opportunity I had during my stay of 
 examining the district for minerals. I picked up some 
 rolled pebbles of serpentine, and some schistose pebbles 
 from metamorphic rocks in the interior. Also quartz, 
 both pure and ferruginous, containing iron pyrites, and 
 it may perhaps on assay yield some gold and silver. I 
 found a piece of a hard bituminous mmeral, which can 
 hardly be classed either as a coal or a brown coal. I 
 send home a sample (No. 1 Bongon). I shall shortly 
 make an analysis, and shall enclose results in my next 
 reports. 
 
 Jan. 11th. — It commenced to rain again at twelve 
 o'clock yesterday, and rained all day and night, and it 
 is still raining without any sign of stopping. We are 
 shut up at the Dusuns', and the Bongon has become an 
 impassable torrent. 
 
 Jan. 12///. — Impossible, the Dusuns say, to get back
 
 1 70 North Borneo. 
 
 to Bongon, as a little stream whicli we crossed in coming 
 is now a rushing river. The whole country is flooded, 
 and still the rain is pouring down in torrents. The 
 Dusuns are in fear of their houses being washed away, 
 as the river has risen to within a few feet of the piles. 
 Early this morning a large buffalo passed down the 
 stream drowning amid debris of jungle, driftwood, &c. 
 He was going at ten or twelve miles an hour I should 
 think. I thought matters might only get worse if we 
 remained, so at 1.30 we packed our goods on the 
 three remaining buffaloes (one having escaped), and 
 left Timbong Batu. We found the jungle almost 
 impassable. The rain had washed over many trees, 
 and heavy growths of creepers and thorny weeds, 
 rendered " limp " by the wet, hung about our wa^^ In 
 many places the cattle-track was entirely wiped out 
 by the river, and we were obliged to cut a path through 
 the jungle. Twice the animals swam in streams 
 through which we had previously passed, with the 
 water not above our knees. At 5.30 we arrived at 
 Datu Owcr's house, quarter-way to Bongon. 
 
 X. 
 
 Jan. l^tli. — Left Datu Ower's at ten o'clock in a 
 little prahu with two men and a guide, leaving my other 
 three men to bring the Karbaus (buffaloes) back to 
 Bono'on overland. 
 
 The boat we obtained was small and leaky, and the 
 stream Avas rushing along with great violence. We 
 went down at eight or ten miles an hour ; one man was 
 on the look-out all the time for floating timber and 
 overhanging trees, which every moment we encountered.
 
 l-S^S^.^';,;^ 
 
 K; 
 
 
 H bo 
 
 
 o
 
 On the Seqiiati and Ktirina Rivers. i 7 1 
 
 Evidence of the great floods were apparent all down 
 the stream, and in about half an hour we came to a stop 
 before two immense trees which had fallen across the 
 stream. Bamboos and driftwood had stuck there and 
 formed an effectual barrier to our further progress. 
 The water was here thirty or forty feet deep, and roar- 
 ing along, one vast rapid for miles. We at first tried to 
 cut our way through the obstacle, and while standing 
 with precarious foothold on fallen trees with the water 
 roaring underneath, the rain came on again in torrents, 
 and really matters looked serious. It was impossible 
 to go on, and seemed equally impossible to go back, as 
 we could not have made a mile in a da}'" against such a 
 current. We had no axe, only a parong, and a week 
 would not be time enough to cut through one of the 
 trees which barred our progress. On the right dense 
 jungle, with not a house for miles, and the country 
 flooded. The left bank was a tall grass swamp, and 
 this was the best chance. We tried to drag our boat 
 through, but found it was too heavy for us. Now 
 an unlooked-for help arrived in the shape of four 
 Sarawak men (in a little prahu) who, more bold than 
 their fellows, were coming down trading to Bongon. 
 AVith their help, after an hour's stiff pulling, we got our 
 boat past the obstacle and into the river on the other 
 side. We arrived at Bongon in safety at four o'clock, 
 and I learnt there that the people had not experienced 
 such floods for ten years. The men have not yet 
 arrived. 
 
 ,lan. 14tlL — The men arrived at 10.30. They told a 
 serious story of the great difficulties they had met with 
 in the jungle, and how they had lost another buffalo. 
 
 Wo left Bongon at twelve, and arrived at the mouth
 
 1/2 North Boi'iieo, 
 
 of the river at four o'clock. As I had found metamor- 
 phic rocks in the river-bed at Timbong Batu, and the 
 same at Tertipan, I thought it would be as well to see 
 an exposure north of Tertipan, between that place and 
 Binkoka. My guide told me that there was a section 
 exposed at a stream called Merrisinsing, a place almost 
 half-way between Binkoka and Tertipan, on the 
 eastern shores of Marudu Bay. 
 
 Jan. Ibth. — I therefore went to Merrisinsing, and 
 followed up the river there for some distance, finding, 
 8S I expected, plenty of evidence of metamorphic rock 
 (serpentine) in the river-bed. The coast is composed 
 of sandstone inclined at rather a high angle. It is 
 therefore evidence that metamorphic rocks extend over 
 a great portion of this part of Borneo. Probably the 
 chain of hills running from the Binkoka district and 
 having their culminating point in Mount Mentapose 
 (12,000 feet high, according to Mr. Witti) are composed 
 of metamorphic and igneous rocks, and this will 
 perhaps be a good mineral field. I intend to devote 
 my first systematic mineral exploration to this dis- 
 trict. 
 
 Jan. 16th. — I returned with my party to Kudat. 
 
 Jan. 17th and 18th. — Remained at Kudat. 
 
 Jan. 19th. — I went in the boat with four men to 
 Terminissan, on the north-west shore of Marudu Bay, 
 in order to see what formation prevailed on that side 
 of the Bay. The Datu Malunad received me very 
 kindly, and said he would like to hoist the Company's 
 flag and bring his people and his cattle down to Kudat 
 to live. He lives near the source of the Temernissan 
 River, which flows throughout its whole course 
 through a tertiary sandstone district. All this west
 
 On the Scqiiati and Knrina Rivers. i 'j}, 
 
 coast of ]\[arudu must be examined for coal, which is 
 the only useful mineral likely to occur there. 
 
 Jan. 20th. — I left Kudat in the Enterprise, as my 
 provisions had run short some days ago. We called in 
 at Sequati, landed provisions, and took away the slave 
 from Mr. Smith. The pit I found was thirty-eight 
 feet deep, and thirteen feet of beading had been cut. 
 They were working in a hard blue clay, which is an 
 admirable fire-clay, and I should think almost equal to 
 Stornbridge clay. Many pieces of coal and mineral 
 resin (similar to that which occurs at Coal Point, 
 Labuan) had been found, and the pit is now quite dry.
 
 1 74 North Borneo. 
 
 III. 
 
 UP THE LABUK RIVEE, AND OVERLAND TO 
 
 KUDAT. 
 
 Tropical forests — A mysterious chief — !N'ative ideas of gold — 
 — Discovery of a hill of pure talc — Leeches and rattans — Sin- 
 Dyaks — A river accident — Head-hunters on the watch — " Like 
 men with tails " — Omens — " Terrihle news " — A strange cere- 
 mony luckily concluded — A lovely scene — " The giant hills 
 of Borneo" — Collecting upas juice — Mineral prospects — Ini- 
 tiated into the brotherhood of the Bendowen Dusuns — "Oh, 
 Kinarringan, hear us ! " — Talking to a dead man's ghost — 
 Tattooed heroes, and marks denoting a coward — Kice harvests 
 — " Only iron pyrites " — More brotherhood ceremonies — A 
 model kampong — Hardships — Inhospitable Ghauaghaua or Tun- 
 foul men — A ghastly scene — Not head-hunting, but head- 
 stealing — Pig-killing, and a dead man — Promise of minerals 
 in the Sugut rivers — Lost in the jungle — An angry native and 
 a churlish tribe — The end of the journey — " In the Bornean 
 bush from March 1 to June 1 5." 
 
 I. 
 
 Having been instructed by the Governor to proceed to 
 the Labuk River in order to investigate " the antimony 
 find," which had been reported from that district, I 
 left Sandakan for the Labuk on March 1st, 1882, at 
 6.30, in the steam launch Boyah. Before leaving I 
 received two small j)ieces of sulphide of antimony, 
 weighing respectively 11*325 grms. and 13*726 grms.,
 
 up the Labiik River ajid Overland to Kudat. 175 
 
 and upon which I have already written a note to the 
 Company. This ore was reported to have been brought 
 down the river by Hadji Sedik, who was said to know 
 of large deposits existing up the Labuk ; indeed, I was 
 told that there were " seven hills of antimony." It at 
 once struck me as strange, if the ore existed in great 
 quantities, that such small specimens only could be 
 obtained. 
 
 Nothing of importance occurred on my first day's 
 journey. It rained considerably, and on picking up 
 the house-boat from Sandakan, which had started 
 ])efore us, we all put into a tree-covered sandy island 
 called " Liborreu " to wait for the morrow. 
 
 We left Liborreu at an early hour the next day, and 
 were glad enough to get away, as there was no fresh 
 water there. We arrived at the mouth of the Labuk 
 River at one o'clock. The actual mouth is about a mile 
 wide, and the Labuk is joined at its embouchure by 
 another stream from the S.E. Shortly after reaching 
 the mouth we grounded on the bar, and were delayed 
 an hour and a half before we succeeded in finding the 
 deep channel and getting into the river. During this 
 time I took a bearing of Tanjong Sugut, N.E. from our 
 position. Having got well into the river, we steamed 
 on in a AV. to W.N.W. direction for about twelve miles, 
 when our course changed to N.E. into a much smaller 
 channel, leaving an immense swamp, looking like a lake, 
 on the W. The Labuk winds and turns very much ; 
 a large bold stream about 300 to 500 yards wide, and 
 having a very rapid current. The banks here are 
 lined with magnificent nipa palms, which grow to an 
 enormous size. These useful growths form a fringe 
 along the river, at the back of which are trackless
 
 1 76 North Borneo. 
 
 mangrove swamps, the homes of the Labuk crocodiles. 
 We anchored on the left bank at 10 p.m., and it rained 
 very heavily all night. 
 
 We got away in the early morning, and up to mid- 
 day passed two small tributaries, one on the right and 
 one on the left bank ; they were respectively twenty 
 and forty yards broad. The banks were still lined 
 with nipa, and the stream was very deep and rapid. 
 The weather to-day was beautiful, and nothing could 
 be more delightful than steaming up this unknown 
 river. Presently we left the swamps behind us, and 
 now the banks were covered with vast forests, from 
 whose sombre depths could be heard the cries of horn- 
 bills and the chatter of monkeys. Enormous creepers 
 hung in pendant growths from the great dark trees, 
 butterflies and insects of every hue and colour fluttered 
 before us, the sun blazing out and shedding a golden 
 radiance over the scene. On and on we went, and as 
 we rounded a bend in the stream a charming view 
 opened up to us. A long stretch of river for miles, 
 ending in a bank of forest backed by lofty-peaked blue 
 mountains. Soon afterwards a stream, some fifty yards 
 broad, joined the Labuk on the right bank, and the 
 river ceased to be tidal. The Labuk is here about 250 
 yards broad. I shortly afterwards took a bearing of 
 the highest peak before mentioned (275°, height about 
 4000 feet), distance ten miles. This hill is called 
 Tingut, and gives rise to a river of the same name, 
 which joins the Labuk on the left bank, and is sixty 
 yards broad at its mouth. 
 
 In the afternoon we arrived at " Lomantic," a Sulu 
 village situated on the right bank of the river. There 
 is a small wooden pier on which the people, the moment
 
 up the Labuk River and Overland to Kudat. 177 
 
 they saw us, ran and hoisted the Company's flag. The 
 headman of the village is Datii Pangeran Momonko 
 Nagara, who is a gutta trader. I learnt here that 
 Hadji Sedik (the antimony man) had been up the river 
 as far as Pungoh, which is close to the head-waters of 
 the Lukan. The headquarters of the Dumpas men is 
 at Neiot Tungal, and these people are already being 
 complained of. 
 
 All the morning of the next day was spent cutting 
 wood for the steamer, and we did not get away until 
 1.30. The Labuk is now about 150 yards wide, and 
 the soil changes from a sandy bank to a red gravel 
 mixed with blue clay. Stone heaps now began to make 
 their appearance in the middle of the river, the water 
 became shallower and shallower, and the stream swifter 
 and swifter, until at 5.15 we made scarcely any 
 progress at all. Shortly after this the launch got 
 ashore on a stone bank ; the stream catching her turned 
 her on her side, and I thought she was over. All 
 hands were put on, and by dint of much hard pulling 
 we managed to get her free before night. It was 
 evident, however, that the launch could not be used 
 any further up the river, not only on account of the 
 shallows, but also because she had started a plank and 
 sprung a leak. The only thing to be done was to pull 
 the house-boat up as far as Tander Batu with ropes, 
 and then borrow the native " dugouts " (" gobangs ") 
 for further .progress up the Labuk. 
 
 II. 
 
 March i)tl\. — We left our anchorage for Tander 
 Batu this morning, dragging up the house-boat and 
 
 N
 
 1 78 No7'th Borneo. 
 
 leaving the launch behind. Just before we started, 
 Datu Serikaya's son came down to get what he could 
 in the shape of tobacco and rice. Eice is very dear at 
 Tander Batu just now, as the Datu's prahus, which go 
 down to Sandakan to buy that necessary article of 
 food, are three weeks over due; and the people are 
 living entirely on potatoes and what little fish they can 
 catch in the river. A bag of rice at Tander Batu just 
 now is worth $14. 
 
 As we journeyed up we came in sight of the Labuk 
 hills ; the first and highest hill bearing 300°, about 
 4000 feet high, and distant about eight miles. Hill 
 No. 2, bearing 310°, height 4200 feet ; and hill No. 3, 
 bearing 297°, height 3500 feet. 
 
 I noticed here tufts of grass hanging on branches 
 twenty feet over our heads, deposited there by the river 
 during the wet season. 
 
 Tander Batu is a small village on the right bank of 
 the river, having a population of 250 persons ; only 
 five large houses. The people were originally Sulumen, 
 but having lived for generations in the Labuk they call 
 themselves " Labuk men." The chief of this part of 
 the country is Datu Serikaya, who has the Company's 
 flag flying on a post outside his house, with two old 
 iron cannon beside it. He received me in great style, 
 and placed a table before me, resting himself on the 
 pther side. Some finger-glasses, half full of water, 
 were brought, and one of these the Datu drew towards 
 him, and used as a spittoon. I then discovered that 
 the table was not intended for refreshments. We sat 
 thus for nearly three hours, talking over the matter of 
 procuring " gobaugs," or dugouts, and from a Hadji 
 trading up the river I obtained two. I got no assist-
 
 up the Labuk River and Overland to Kudat. 1 79 
 
 ance whatever from Datu Serikaya. In Bongon, 
 Sheriff Shea told me not to eat in Datu Serikaya's 
 house, as dark stories are told of his having poisoned 
 more than one person. 
 
 Going up the stream to-day, I noticed hills 200 to 
 •300 feet high, composed entirely of quartz and ser- 
 pentine identical with that of Tertipan, in Marudu Bay. 
 March 6th. — We stayed at Tander Batu, all hands 
 cutting wood for the house-boat to take back to the 
 steamer. 
 
 I had many complaints of Datu Serikaya's people 
 from all the traders in the river. He was unjust, 
 unfair, &c. I myself found him perfectly indifferent 
 as to whether I (a Company's officer) got on or not, 
 and, indeed, I think he would have preferred my not 
 going further up the river. 
 
 As Datu Serikaya would neither lend anything nor 
 do anything, in spite of his flying the Company's flag, 
 I was obliged, on March 7th, to send my head police- 
 man back to Lomantic in the hope of getting a prahu. 
 I and half the men pushed on in the two prahus and 
 ■the house-boat, which we had also brought, leaving 
 the others to come on after us. Our progress inland 
 was now slow, as for miles we were all out in the 
 water dragging the boats up against the rapid current. 
 We passed a small village on the right bank. The 
 people were gutta traders, and their houses consisted 
 of beached prahus covered in with *' kajangs." They 
 come up the river at the end of the wet season, trade 
 during the dry weather, and go out to sea with the 
 great rains. There were some fifty people living in 
 these prahus. They were all full of complaints against 
 the up-country people and against Datu Serikaya, their 
 
 N 2
 
 I So Noj'th Borneo. 
 
 trouble being that they could not get their debts paid, 
 and had, in short, been swindled out of their money. 
 There were several Sarawak Malays there, but the 
 majority of the people were Sulumen. They said that 
 Tampias was eight days' journey up the river, and 
 that an hour's rain was enough to flood the stream. 
 In the wet season the Labuk must be terrible : a rise 
 of at least twenty feet above its present level, with an 
 irresistible current. Trees of enormous size are piled 
 up on the banks ; and even away in the jungle lie 
 trunks of trees which have been swept there by the 
 flood. The amount of denudation effected by these 
 tropical rivers is enormous ; vast beds of rolled peb- 
 bles, consisting of quartzite, quartz, serpentine, mica 
 schist, porphyritic granite, &c., are to be seen all along 
 the Labuk. 
 
 About noon the rain began, and wetted us most 
 thoroughly. We, however, pushed on, and camped in 
 the wet on a stone bank. 
 
 March 8th. — Waited until eleven o'clock for Smith 
 and party to come up. The hills in this country are 
 composed largely of rich clayey ironstone ; and, indeed, 
 in one place near our last night's camping-ground, 
 where there had been a landslip, the exposure showed 
 a bright red ironstone, which in England would have 
 been jumped at as a source of wealth. On both banks 
 of the river, at about a mile distant from the water, 
 rise the Labuk hills, heights varying from 500 to 
 1000 and 2000 feet. To-day we passed a little village 
 still on the right bank ; all the villages seem to be 
 built on the right bank. The population consists of 
 forty-five people, and the headman is called Tuan 
 Imum, being a kind of magistrate in the Labuk.
 
 
 rtUWKJSO^'. -=^ 
 
 AT WOEK ON THE LABUK EIVEll. 
 
 From a drawing by W. H. Margeisou. To face page 180.
 
 
 J 
 
 
 WKMWCfc^SOIV 
 
 
 A DECEITFUL A^D EEFEACTOKT GUIDE. 
 
 From a rtra-wing: by W. H. Margetson. To face page 181.
 
 Up the Labuk River and OverlaJid to Kudat. 1 8 1 
 
 I got bearings of three hills. Here are the figures : 
 (1) bearing 260°, height about 4000 feet, distance 
 about three miles ; (2) bearing 275°, height 3500 feet, 
 distance about three and a half miles ; (3) bearing 235°, 
 distance about six miles. I noted the absence of any 
 large tributaries to the Labuk; all that we have passed 
 as yet being very small. 
 
 Early the next morning I told off a party of men, 
 with picks and shovels, to search some red river 
 gravels which had attracted my attention. I used the 
 remaining shovel myself, but unfortunately with no 
 valuable result. I found mica and chlorite schists 
 among the other rocks. It has rained a little ever 
 since we left Elopura, and to-day is showery. We 
 had to make continual halts, as the men said they 
 could not work in the rain. Passed a small kara- 
 pong on the left bank, named " Konamas," headman 
 *' Melana :" men, fourteen ; women, thirty. Near this 
 village, on the opposite bank, stands " Buis," head- 
 man " Hidal ;" three men, ten women. The Dusun 
 countries inland, but not far from the river, are called 
 " Anosyne" and " Bokis," both, I was told, populous 
 tribes. The people at Buis, Avho are half Dusun and 
 half Sulu, call themselves " Orang Rungus." Tliey 
 say that near Kudat there are many more men of 
 their kind. They complained of the Dumpas men 
 very much, saying that they stole their goods and 
 swindled them. The headman showed me a common 
 pin-fire revolver, worth about $5, for which he paid 
 forty pounds of gutta ; also a string of beads, worth 
 about twenty cents, which he had purchased for eight 
 pounds of gutta. He complained also of the Dumpas 
 men's scales and weights, saying that one picul of
 
 1 82 North Borneo. 
 
 gutta in the Labuk country on arriving at Sandakan 
 weighed two piculs. 
 
 All the prahus except mine went on ahead the next 
 day to Pungoh. I stayed at Buis and travelled with 
 Dusun guides two hours in a S.S.W. direction to a 
 hill bearing 245° to 255°. A high hill in the dis- 
 tance bearing 317°. No. 1, distant two miles, height 
 700 feet; No. 2, distant twelve miles, height 2000 feet. 
 The natives aflBrmed that there is gold in the bed of a 
 stream running from the nearer hill. Arrived at the 
 spot in question I was shown some scales and plates 
 of mica, which were pointed out to me as gold. The 
 bed of the stream is composed of thick, black earthy 
 matter, on the top of which the mica was floating. 
 We returned to the prahu, and pushed on as quickly 
 as possible, and in the afternoon arrived at Pungoh, 
 w^hich is simply a gutta- working place. When all the 
 workers come down from the woods, there are some 
 350 people at Pungoh. I here learned that Hadji 
 Sedik had been up here with some men collecting 
 gutta, and that he himself had never left Pungoh vil- 
 lage. No one had ever heard of the antimony, and I 
 have concluded in my own mind that those minute 
 specimens given to me from Sandakan never came out 
 of the Company's territory, but were imported. 
 
 Mr. Witti, when on his journey from Bongon to 
 Sandakan, came down the Labuk as far as our present 
 station, Pungoh. From here he went overland to the 
 head-waters of the Lukan, distant from Pungoh some 
 two hours. This is a terrible country, if the stories 
 one hears about it are correct. I was told by Hidal, 
 my Dusun guide, that last year it rained for seventy 
 days without stopping. The river rose to an enormous
 
 up the Labuk River and Overland to Kiidat. 183 
 
 height — trees, houses, men, boats, all were taken down 
 the stream, and many people lost their lives. Then 
 another year, he said, there was no rain for three 
 months, and the river, according to him, nearly dried 
 lip. An hour's sharp rain up country in the hills will 
 make the river rise several feet. 
 
 Leaving Pungoh, we pushed on past a deserted 
 kampong, called by Mr. Witti, Liposu, and at evening 
 we sought our usual camping-ground on a stone 
 bank. 
 
 I started away at an early hour in the morning up 
 a tributary on the right bank, direction S.AY., about 
 fifty yards wide, very deep, and flowing through forest 
 primeval. In places there were placid green pools 
 with but little current, into whose green depths one 
 could see down for three or four fathoms to the peb- 
 bles gleaming and shining on the bottom. After an 
 hour's journey we came to a waterfall, and as we could 
 go up no further, I stopped and examined the river- 
 ))ed for minerals. Among the boulders I observed 
 syenite, greenstone, serpentine, oxide of iron boulders, 
 and mica schist half decomposed. Having satisfied 
 myself with regard to the minerals in the river-bed, 
 I returned to the Labuk, and continued my journey 
 towards " Tampolon " country, or, as the people call 
 it, " Tanah Dumpas." 
 
 I waited at Tanah Dumpas, in the Tampolon country, 
 on the 13th, to give the men a rest, as the constant 
 walking in the water, dragging the prahus up against 
 the rapids, has made their feet sore. It rained heavily 
 to-day, and I got a hut run up, and made myself as 
 comfortable as possible. A Dusun brought a fine 
 specimen of talc from a small hill on the left bank of
 
 1 84 North Borneo. 
 
 the Labuk, near a Dusun kampong called Sasapong. 
 I took all my men over to the bill, and we ran a hole 
 some six or eight feet in. No change of strata was 
 noted, nothing but a solid hill of the purest talc. 
 
 The Tanah Dumpas men number : Sulus, 30 ; 
 Dusuns, 40. Headman: Seribangsah Tongu. All 
 these people are poor, and in great want of rice. 
 
 The next day I sent the Sandakan police back with 
 notes and lists of provisions required. It was arranged 
 that on the 3rd of April they should be at Tanah 
 Dumpas with the things, and that Smith should be 
 there to take the stores. Smith and nearly all the 
 men went on up stream towards Sogolitan, at which 
 place he was to stay until I came up. I thought it 
 advisable to explore the country on the right bank, in 
 the direction of some hills which, the natives said were 
 not far from the Kinabatangan. In order to do this 
 Dusun guides must be procured, and it was arranged 
 to start to-morrow. The people here are rather grasp- 
 ing, and are continually begging rice. 
 
 I left Tanah Dumpas with my Dusun guides on the 
 16th, and ran down the river as far as a small island, 
 into whose right passage flows a tributary called the 
 Telupid. Entered the river at 9.30, course being S. 
 to S.S.E. We passed a beautiful waterfall on the 
 left bank, and our course changed to E.S.E. This 
 river is very like the last one I ascended, deep, dark, 
 and placid at its mouth, and becoming a rushing tor- 
 rent a little way up. The country is thickly wooded 
 with enormous trees and rattans, and surrounded by 
 high hills. I carefully examined the rolled pebbles in 
 ,the river ; they were identical with the stones found 
 in the other river, previously noted.
 
 up the Labiik ^iver and Overland to Kudat. 1 8 ■ 
 
 III. 
 
 Not being able to find traces of any useful mineral 
 in the Telupid, I left this river and followed up one of 
 the tributaries, going overland to do so. Had the 
 greatest mineral treasure imaginable lain in the hills, 
 nature had taken effectual means to conceal it. I 
 was never in a jungle with so many leeches as well 
 as other flying and crawling pests. ^ The rattans also 
 were a great obstacle, stretched as they were across 
 the path at heights varying from one inch to 30 feet. 
 These catch the feet and trip up the traveller, while the 
 rattan leaves hang down from above, armed with hun- 
 dreds of thorns, each one strong . enough to catch a 
 fish with ; and indeed they are used for this purpose. 
 
 The tributary we were following was called the 
 Timbalas, it runs into the Telupid on the right bank, 
 and both rivers rise in the Gempis hills. The whole 
 country from here to the Kinabatangan is called Pomo- 
 danyoun. The rock at the head of the Timbalas was 
 a decomposing quartz, containing plates of mica, but 
 all in a very pulverulent and decomposed state. 
 
 March 17th. — Left our camp at Tanah Dumpas and 
 passed through the N. channel of a large island which 
 
 ' "The land leech is a troublesome pest to those travelling in the 
 jungle, both from their large numbers and from the fact that besides 
 the weakening effect from the loss of blood, bites occasionally give 
 rise to troublesome sores. I have heard of no real case of injury from 
 poisonous snakes and have seen few such snakes. Centipedes occur 
 frequently in the houses, but their bite is painful only for an hour or 
 two. Scorpions are found occasionally in dead wood, t^'c. Fish with 
 poisonous spines occur frequently and sometimes give rather trouble- 
 some Wounds." — Medical Aspect of North Borneo, by T. II. Walker, 
 A.M.., M.J}., Principal Medical Ojjlrer of the Cainpanif, Xor., 1883.
 
 1 86 North Bor7ieo. 
 
 here divides the Labuk into two. Nothing but going 
 up rapids to-day ; we ascended one 4 feet bigh in 
 20 yards, and shortly afterwards got up one 8 feet 
 high in 15 yards, and passed a veritable whirlpool. 
 The water rushing round a sharp bend was met by 
 some vertical rocks, and the stream striking on these 
 had created a dangerous whirlpool. Just above this 
 pool there is a small Dumpas village, on the left bank, 
 called *' Kabuan." The population numbers thirty 
 persons, and none of them dare go further up the river 
 than they are at present, as the men of Sogolitan have 
 closed the river against them. We passed a splendid 
 waterfall on the right bank, the mouth of the Bombolie, 
 which is some eight yards wide, and falls from a height 
 of fifty feet into the Labuk. We camped to-night just 
 below a rattan, which was stretched across the river 
 marking the frontier of the Sogolitan and Delarnass 
 countries.^ To our camp to-night came two small 
 
 2 ^ rattan slung across a river is in some districts called a bintang- 
 niarrow station, for raising which a heavy tax or fine is levied. Oc- 
 casionally the tax is taken out in blood, though in the neighbourhood 
 of the coast the bintang-marrow is not maintained with the severity 
 that obtains inland. Mr. Resident Pryer in his account of a trip on 
 the Kinabatangan was accompanied by a native, named Banjer, who 
 spun many yarns about this rattan business. Banjer was a sultan's man, 
 and had once been put on a " bintang-marrow " station. The man 
 in charge of it thought the time had come to take a little duty in 
 blood, just to let people see that the sultan didn't keep " bintang- 
 marrow " stations for nothing. So they caught a trader, accused him 
 of evading the payment of duties, and tying a rope round his wrists 
 fastened him to a post with his feet off the ground, and left him 
 hanging there. He cried continually all day long : " I have committed 
 no fault, I have committed no fault." They returned in the evening 
 with their krises and hewed him to bits. Banjer went on to tell Mr. 
 Pryer that he was present when the Tunbumohas " semunguped " 
 u man who was a bought slave. The Tunbumohas tied him u^)
 
 Up the Labuk River and Overland to Kzidat. 187 
 
 prahus containing two Sarawak gutta traders and four 
 Dampas men whom they had engaged to take them up 
 the river. The head of the party asked permission to 
 accompany us, as he was afraid of the Sin-Dyaks of 
 Sogohtan. I agreed, and so we all went to sleep under 
 three enormous fig-trees, from which we were un- 
 pleasantly moved in the middle of the night by a 
 sudden rise of the river. 
 
 There was a heavy stream running the next morn- 
 ing as we moved onwards, and our only way of pro- 
 gress for miles was by hugging the bank and dragging 
 ourselves up by trees, rocks, or anything that was 
 possible to catch hold of. We soon, however, passed 
 the Sogolitan river on the left bank. Opposite this is 
 another tributary ending its course in a splendid cas- 
 cade, some sixty or seventy feet high. 
 
 I was informed that in this district there are several 
 thousand people calling themselves Sin-Dyaks. They are 
 painted and tattooed in a peculiar way. On the other 
 side of the rattan, which my Malays were not at all 
 willing to go under, there was a guard of three Dyaks 
 in a native dugout. Their boat was of capital work- 
 manship, being carved at the bow. The men were 
 tattooed with blue all down the arms, breasts, and 
 legs, and had pieces of wood in their ears. They wore 
 
 with his arms outstretched (crucified in fact), and they danced round 
 him. At last the headman approached, and wishing him a pleasant 
 journey to Kina Balu, stuck his spear about an inch deep, and no 
 more, in the man's body ; and another then said, " Bear ray kind 
 remembrances to my brother at Kina Balu," and did the same ; and 
 in this way, with messages to deceased relatives at Kina Balu, all 
 those present slightly wounded the man. When the dance w;is over 
 they unbound him, but he Avas dead. This custom is known as 
 "semunguji," and is practised by tlic far inland tribes to this day.
 
 i88 North Borneo. 
 
 a liead-clotli of common blue calico fastened on by a 
 plaited rattan, which ^as passed over the top of the 
 head-cloth and under the chin. They were armed with 
 spears and native-made short swords, and looked very 
 formidable savages. 
 
 We arrived at Smith's camp before noon. He was 
 well posted below a bend in the river, at the foot of a 
 hill about 3500 feet high. Potatoes, kaladi, melons, 
 cucumbers, &c., were now in plenty, and my famished 
 men got a feed of something more than rice, for which 
 they were very thankful. The country here is very 
 mountainous, and as the river is confined by high 
 banks the current is tremendous, and I was advised 
 by the Dyak chief not to try and go up further by 
 water. It was, however, impossible to carry our things 
 up any other way, and the dangers ahead could not, 
 I thought, be much worse than the dangers we had 
 already j^assed. 
 
 It was 11.30 when we started on again, the whole 
 party together. My prahu was leading, a little praliu 
 with Datu Mahmad (my guide when we get to Kino- 
 ram) followed. Then came Smith and the police, and 
 lastly the mandore and coolies, in a large prahu full of 
 things. We had passed rather a difficult bit of river 
 when I heard a shriek, and looking round I saw several 
 heads bobbing in the rushing water and a prahu, bot- 
 tom upwards, floating down and dashing among the 
 boulders in the distance. I jumped from my gobang 
 and rushed to the spot ; but before I arrived the prahu 
 had gone out of sight, and most of the men had got 
 ashore, some with great difficulty and many narrow 
 escapes. The Dumpas men, who swim like fishes, 
 were of great help in getting the people ashore, and
 
 Up the Labiik River and Overland to Kiidat. 189 
 
 had it not been for them I think the accident would 
 have been a fatal one. The missing goods were many, 
 tbe severest losses being two bags of rice, three rifles, 
 six axes, and some parango, and a box of blow-pipe 
 apparatus ; while all the men's clothes, blankets, &c., 
 had gone out to sea, and some poor fellows had 
 scarcely a rag to stand in. The Dumpas and Sulu men 
 who were following us dived all day trying to recover 
 goods, and by their means two guns and half a bag of 
 rice were got up. The Dyaks here gave us no help, 
 and indeed their prahus were on the watch at a bend 
 of the river some way down, for blankets, kaglangs, or 
 other things which might float down, and which they 
 would very quickly clear up. These people are indeed 
 head-hunters. Only seven days ago a head was taken 
 at a tree bridge over a torrent. A Dumpas man was 
 walking over a felled tree (which in this country 
 always constitutes a bridge), when four Sogolitan 
 men set on him, pushed him down the steep bank, 
 and jumping down after him, took his head and 
 hand and made away. I saw the victim's head and 
 his hand in a house not far from the scene of tho 
 murder. Some four or five weeks ago the Sogolitan 
 chiefs, lamboune and Pongout, admitted that seven 
 heads had been taken from slaughtered men of Tin- 
 gara (a country near the Kinabatangan). He (lam- 
 boune) said there was a blood-feud going on between 
 the men of " Loundat" in Sogolitan and the Tingara 
 tribes. 
 
 Having got our things together, we crossed the river 
 and made our camp for the night. It was useless to 
 expect anything from the SogoUtan people. They had 
 already requested us not to go up to their houses, as
 
 1 90 North Borneo. 
 
 their women were afraid. The Dyaks here all ea£ 
 monkeys and preserve the skins, which they fasten 
 round their waists, letting the tails hang down behind, 
 so that in the distance they look like men with tails.^ 
 
 3 Mr. Carl Bock, in his interesting; narrative of travel up the Mahak- 
 kani and down the Barito, published under the title of " Tine Head- 
 Hunters of Borneo,^' heard of people with tails at the village of Dassa, 
 a settlement of the Beona Dayaks. Carl Bock wonders if " Mr. Dar- 
 win received the first suggestion of his theory of man's simian descent 
 from the fables concerning the existence of tailed men which obtained 
 credence among so many uncivilized people." Such definite state- 
 ments were made to the traveller in this village that he ultimately, 
 with the consent of the ruling authority, sent one Tjiropon, who had 
 seen the tailed people in an adjacent country, on an expedition to 
 bring two of them safely to Dutch territory. The messenger was well 
 paid, and credited with letters from his chief to the Sultan of Passir, 
 in whose territories the tailed people were said to exist. Some time 
 afterwards Carl Bock returned to Passir. Tjiropon gave a meagre 
 account of his mission. He had seen the Sultan of Passir, and had 
 delivered to him the letter of his Highness of Koetei, but he had seen 
 no tailed people this time, though " before Allah " he swore he had 
 long ago. With great difficulty Mr. Bock organized another party of 
 inquiry, with the following result : — 
 
 " After twenty-five days' absence the party returned with an inte- 
 resting communication from the Sultan of Passir. It appeared that 
 Tjiropon had after all delivered the letter from the Sultan of Koetei, 
 in which the latter potentate asked his royal cousin to send him two 
 of the Orang hoeiHoet, or ' tailed people ;' but the letter had been mis- 
 understood by the Sultan of Passir. The suite in attendance upon 
 him were known collectively as the Orang hoentoet di Sultan di Passir 
 — literally the ' tail people of the Sultan of Passir ; ' and his Highness, 
 taking ofi"ence at the supposed request of his brother ruler that two 
 of his personal attendants — in fact, his confidential men — should be 
 sent to him, had waxed exceedingly wroth, and, calling Tjiropon 
 before him, he ordered him to depart immediately. ' If the Sultan of 
 Koetei wants my Orang hoentoet,' said he, ' let him fetch them him- 
 self.' And so the Sultan of Passir, expecting an attack from the 
 Sultan of Koetei in response to his challenge, had been arming him- 
 self, ever since, erecting fortifications, and preparing for war. The
 
 up the Labuk River and Ovo'land to Kudat. 191 
 
 I left Sogolitan with the remaining prahus, it having 
 been arranged that Smith should take the men from 
 the prahu and walk overland as far as Tampias, which 
 was my rendezvous. The Dyak chief, lamboune, had 
 offered guides, for one fathom of cloth, to be paid 
 beforehand. We had got some little distance up 
 stream when I heard a gun fired, and on going back I 
 found that the Dyak would no longer give men as 
 guides, and I learnt that the truth was that the Sogo- 
 litan men dare not go to Tampias, as they were in feud 
 with the Dusuns there. The Dyaks were now coming 
 down in numbers, and the chief asked me whether I 
 would allow his men to " rampass " the goods of the 
 Dumpas men who, as I mentioned before, were coming 
 up with us, and who were now just leaving to catch us 
 up. I made no direct answer to this, but said I would 
 think first ; and having distributed the men, who could 
 no longer go overland, among the various prahus, I 
 sprang on board my gobang, and ordered every one to 
 clear out as fast as possible, as I wished, at all risks, 
 to come into no collision with the people. The Dyaks, 
 when they saw us going away, became rather excited 
 
 letter from Mr. IVIeijer had satisfactorily explained matters, and put 
 his Highness at his ease. His mistake was, perhaps, pardonable, for 
 he sent word that the only Orang hoentoet he had ever heard of were 
 tliose, so called, forming his suite." 
 
 It seems to me that the author of " The Head- Hunters of Borneo " 
 Tinconsciously offers in his illustrations a possible explanation of the 
 current fiction. His Bornean hunter wears an outer skin in such a 
 Avay that the tail of it might in the distance be mistaken for a human 
 dorsal appendage ; while the scant toilette of the Dayak boys lends 
 itself to the same idea. Natives of tribes not cultivating this kind of 
 dress might naturally enough speak of others as Ornng boe?itoet, and 
 native travellers desiring to exalt their own importance may huva 
 invented the living tail out of the ornamental one.
 
 I 92 North Borneo. 
 
 on sliore ; but they made no effort to stop us, and I 
 really think tliey were afraid of the black men ^Yho 
 were with me. 
 
 Progress up the river is very difficult and dan- 
 gerous. I think we ascended not more than fifty 
 yards to-day, divided in three rapids. After this 
 we passed under a second rattan stretched across 
 the river between Kananap, a district of Sogolitan, 
 and Sogolitan proper. These two rattans form one 
 "key" to the country, and if one is cut down, in 
 defiance, the Dyaks never leave the war-path until 
 the offenders' heads are at rest with the others in their 
 head-store. All these people are very superstitious. 
 The " bad bird " is a great trouble, for it causes 
 trading parties to turn and go back, even \\rhen within 
 sight of the end of their journey. On head raids there 
 are several special birds, and great attention is paid to 
 their warnings. If the bird flies from left to right and 
 does not again return, the whole war party sits down 
 and waits, and if nothing comes of the waiting every 
 one goes home. This evening I caught a first sight of 
 Mentapok, stated by Mr. AYitti to be 8000, but which 
 I should think is at least 9000 feet high. It is a fine, 
 bold peak, with exposures of white rock near the sum- 
 mit, and is not unlike the Matterhorn. 
 
 IV. 
 
 On the 20th we passed into the "Miruru" country. 
 Mentapom was bearing 345°. I noticed an extensive 
 landslip on the right bank of the river, and curiously 
 enough the rock exposed was sandstone. It seems 
 that we have passed a great range of hills, composed 
 of plutonic and metamorphic rock, and have now got
 
 up the Labiik River and Overland to Kndat. 193 
 
 into a sandstone formation once more. I should think, 
 however, that this inlaad sandstone is of much more 
 ancient origin than the coast formation, which is very 
 recent. Further on another big landshp was passed, 
 disclosing strata dipping at 80° S.S.W. 
 
 V. 
 
 We camped to-night almost at the foot of Mentapom, 
 and I fired my gun several times as a signal to a prabu 
 which had not yet come up. Some Dusuns, who were 
 catching fish, asked us not to fire, as it made the spirits 
 on Mentapom angry, and we should sure to get rain. 
 I cannot tell how they got hold of this curious super- 
 stition, but, sure enough, half an hour afterwards the 
 rain came down in torrents. 
 
 March 21st. — At about nine o'clock the missing go- 
 bang came up. Terrible news ! She had gone over, and 
 all our things were lost. A gun and sword-bayonet, a 
 box of tiimed provisions, four or five blankets, half a bao- 
 of rice (being all the rice we had to feed twenty hungry 
 men), and all the biscuit, besides endless things belong- 
 ing to the Datu and the unfortunates in the boat. This 
 is a most terrible business for us. The men have not a 
 grain of rice to eat. I was thinking over the situation, 
 when one of them said he could see a house on the 
 top of a hill near the base of the Mentapom. He 
 pointed it out to me, and I determined to go up and try 
 and get food. Taking some cloth and four men, I went 
 forward. At our approach all the people ran away and 
 shouted, " Take the paddy; there it is, there it is ! " 
 They were in the midst of cutting paddy. When they 
 saw that we did not intend to rob and murder them, 
 

 
 194 North Borneo. 
 
 tliey came back, and, gaining confidence by degrees, 
 tliey at last did not want to sell us any rice. AVhen 
 told that my men had nothing to eat, and that if they 
 did not get rice they must starve, the people merely 
 laughed, and said they could not let us have any, as it 
 was not yet time. They have a superstition connected 
 with the beginning of harvest. However, we frightened 
 them a little, and eventually succeeded in getting some 
 rice at one fathom of cloth per gantang. We left these 
 inhospitable shores at four o'clock. Coming down I 
 noticed tracks of rhinoceros, and a stream flowing from 
 Mentapom contained nothing but quartz boulders. 
 When we arrived at the prahus I learnt that Smith and 
 party had gone on. He had nothing to eat. What 
 the men will do I cannot say. I am but little better 
 off than he, as all my day's work only produced a 
 quarter of a sack of rice. 
 
 Left our camp for Tampias as early as possible on 
 the 22nd. At one o'clock we passed the Labuk's most 
 important tributary, the Kagibangan, which is as large 
 as the Labuk itself. It flows in on the right bank. It 
 occurred to me, when passing, that perhaps Smith 
 might have mistaken the river and gone up the Kagi- 
 bangan. This river comes from the Lebu (mount) 
 country, and is quite unknown. Smith has no food 
 with him, so I am rather anxious about him. We 
 arrived at Tampias at dusk, to find as I expected, that 
 Smith lias gone up the Kagibangan. The people here 
 are Sulu gutta traders. 
 
 I had a hut put up the next day for storing pro- 
 visions, and sent a prahu after Smith. I also sent 
 some men up to the nearest Dusun kampong to get 
 food, and in the morning Smith arrived, all well \ and,
 
 up the Lahtik River and Overland to Kudat. 195 
 
 what is still more important, he brought a little rice. 
 He said he had gone up the Kagibangan about a day's 
 journey, and arrived at a large Dyak kampong contain- 
 ing several hundred men. 
 
 Up to the present time the greatest difficulty has 
 been to get guides. The Dusuns always make some 
 poor excuses ; and, indeed, the only aim of Dyaks, 
 Dusuns, Sulus, and Labuk men, whom I have met up 
 to the present, is to get as much as possible out of 
 one. I tried to persuade a Mentapok Dusun to go up 
 the mountain with me, but he said there were man- 
 eating ghosts, rhinoceros, snakes, &c., and he was 
 afraid. My two men came down from the Dusuns to- 
 day, bringing potatoes, kaladis, and a little rice. They 
 told me that the chief desired to go through the cere- 
 mony of cutting a fowl's head off. 
 
 On arriving at the Dusun kampong, I was received 
 by the headman, " Degadong" (a name given to him 
 by Datu Serikaya), who said he had never before seen 
 a white man, although he had heard of Mr. Witti. His 
 house is called " Ghanali " and the country " Touao- 
 rum." It is situated on a hill to the south, and on the 
 right bank of the Labuk river. To-morrow was fixed 
 for " the cutting ceremony," which is to take place at 
 my hut. Afterwards Degadong promises guides and 
 porters. I told him I wanted to keep on the right bank, 
 and he said, " Oh, yes, I could do that." 
 
 At about twelve o'clock on the following day the 
 Dusuns commenced arriving, boat-load after boat-load, 
 until some hundred men had collected, all armed with 
 spears and swords. The chief now came up, and we at 
 once proceeded with the ceremony. First the chief cut 
 two long sticks, and then, sitting down, he had a space 
 
 2
 
 196 North Borneo. 
 
 of ground cleared before him, and began a discourse. 
 When he came to any special point in his discourse he 
 thrust a stick into the ground and cut it off at a height 
 of half a foot from the earth, leaving the piece sticking 
 in. This went on until he had made two little armies 
 of sticks half a foot high, with a stick in the middle of 
 each army much higher than the rest, and representing 
 the two leaders. These two armies were himself and 
 his followers and myself and my men. Having called 
 in a loud voice to his god, or Kinarringan, to be present, 
 he and I took hold of the head and legs of the fowl, 
 while a third person cut its head off with a knife. We 
 then dropped our respective halves, and the movements 
 of the dying fowl were watched. If it jumps towards 
 the chief his heart is not true, if towards the person to 
 be sworn in his heart is not true ; it must, to be satis- 
 factory, go in some other direction. Luckily, in my 
 case, the fowl hopped away into the jungle and died. 
 All my men now fired three volleys at the request of 
 the chief, and I gave some little presents all round and 
 sent the people away pleased and delighted. 
 
 Smith and a party of men went down the river the 
 next day to fetch up the provisions which are coming 
 from Sandakan. I and ten men pushed on for Kinoram 
 by land. We left Tampias and arrived at Degadong's 
 kampong just as a torrent of rain came on. The direc- 
 tion was S.W., and the distance about four miles. 
 
 The Dusun headman, "Degadong, " was very kind. 
 He presented me with a spear and I gave him a long 
 knife. This exchange of weapons is customary after 
 the fowl ceremony. The two black policemen I have 
 with me are a great nuisance. They are strict Moham- 
 medans, and refuse to eat in a Dusun house on account
 
 ' *''4%;4v'---.7'^j^; 
 
 i-UANK U4TT0N IS MADE A " ULOOD BliOTllKK " OF THE DUSUX CHIEF DEOAPOXa. 
 Frum a di-awing by W. U. Margctson. To face page 19G.
 
 Up the Labuk River and Overland to Kudat. 197 
 
 of the pigs, dogs, and dirt. Their manner also offends 
 the people, and to-morrow I shall send them back to 
 Sandakan. 
 
 March 29th. — I got the black men away as early as 
 possible. They were very troublesome, and had I taken 
 them on they would most likely have created some dis- 
 turbance with the natives. Two chiefs of " Touaorum," 
 Degadong and his brother, accompanied us on our first 
 day's tramp overland. The road lay over a higli ridge, 
 and we had often to climb heights of 2000 and in one 
 case upwards of 3000 feet. From the summit of one of 
 these, where there was no high jungle, I had a splendid 
 view of the country. To tke north lay the Kinabatan- 
 gan valley, with, the Silam hills in the distance ; east- 
 wards stretched the Labuk, girded by hills rising one 
 above the other up to the noble crags of Mentapok. 
 In the distance again was the Sugut vale, with range 
 upon range of tree-capped mountains rising right away 
 to Kina Balu, which, seemingly near, towered like a 
 fairy castle up into the blue sky. I shall never forget 
 this lovely scene, but more especially shall I remember 
 the .wonderful tints and shades presented by the distant 
 " giant hills of Borneo." A blue sky showed up every 
 crag of the principal mountain, which stood out purple 
 and black. The setting sun shed its rays on rock and 
 tree, and the water streaming down the time-worn sides 
 glinted and jflashed, while all the nearer hills were 
 clothed in every shade of green. A few white clouds 
 appeared in the distance, and as I neared the Dusun 
 kampong of Toadilah night clouds were closing in the 
 glorious landscape. It was a most exceptional view, 
 and one which this season of the tropical year can 
 alone afford.
 
 198 A^orth Borneo. 
 
 I took some bearings of Kina Balu from Toadilali ; 
 they were as follows : — 
 
 Highest peak . . . 327° 
 Right extremity . . . 334° 
 
 Left extremity . . . 328° 
 
 VI. 
 
 The spot where we put up to-night is a small house 
 belonging to Degadong. The place is very hot and 
 dirty, and the people very primitive and frightened. 
 Pigs, dogs, and dirt are the great drawbacks to a 
 Dusun house, but one can get used even to these dis- 
 comforts in the jungle. The headman of Toadilah was 
 called " Khuai." He told me that from all this 
 country as far as Moroh the whole of the gutta is taken 
 to Menkabong. It thus escapes the Company's 
 customs. This jungle is full of gutta, and I think a 
 considerable trade goes on, as I saw two Dusun parties, 
 one of fifteen and one of twenty men, going to the coast 
 with their baskets full. A tree was pointed out to me 
 which would yield twelve catties, without killing it. 
 
 I paused at *' Toadilah " twenty-four hours, as 
 Degadoug's brother wanted to go a day's journey and 
 fetch a stone for me to see, which he had obtained 
 from Silam Hills. Orang Kaya Degadong took his 
 leave, with many protestations of friendship. He told 
 me that his only troubles were with the people of Lobn, 
 with whom he was in feud. 
 
 Maixh Slst. — To-day some men came in from col- 
 lecting upas juice. I asked how it was obtained, and 
 they said they make a long bamboo spear, and, tying 
 a rattan to one end, throw it at the soft bark of the
 
 up the Labiik River and Overland to Ktidat. 1 99 
 
 upas-tree, then, pulling it out by means of the rattan, 
 a little of the black juice will have collected in the 
 bamboo, and the experiment is repeated until sufiBcient 
 is collected. I cannot tell what truth there is in this 
 storj; but the people had no reason for deceiving me. 
 The Dusuns at " Toadilah " all wear brass collars, 
 bracelets, and anklets, a black piece of cloth round the 
 head, kept on bj a band of red rattans. The women 
 wear a short sarong of native cloth, which is fixed on 
 tightly at the upper part by brass wire. They also 
 wear collars and anklets of brass wire. 
 
 Early in the morning Degadong's brother came back, 
 bringing with him a capital specimen of sulphide of 
 antimony, weighing, I should think, about fifty grms. 
 He said that he got it in a river in the country at the 
 " back " of Silam. It was three and a half days to 
 there from Toadilah; thus it would be eight days 
 before we got back. My provisions were running low, 
 and I had, I could not tell how long a journey before 
 me. On thinking it over I gave up going after the 
 antimony at present, but its search shall be prosecuted 
 from Kinoram at a future day. I tried to get Degadong 
 to part with his specimen, but he would not, although 
 he offered to go with me to find more whenever I liked. 
 
 We left Toadilah and proceeded on our journey, 
 following a high ridge of hills in a S.S.W. direction. 
 The whole way lay through vast primeval forests, in 
 which I noticed many tree-ferns twenty and more feet 
 high. The general character of the forest was almost 
 Australian, judging from the solitude and unbroken 
 silence which reign in the depths of these trackless 
 woods. The only sounds come from insects. Parrots, 
 monkeys, wild cats, bears, deer, and other usual deni-
 
 200 North Borneo. 
 
 zens of tropical jungle are here entirely absent. The 
 tracks of a large animal were seen ; they appeared to 
 me to be those of a tapir. I got a bearing of Mentapok. 
 It was 75°. 
 
 The Dusuns at Toadilah were afraid to receive a 
 note which I wanted to leave for Smith, should he 
 come in this direction. They were afraid there was a 
 charm in it. After much persuasion, however, they 
 took it in, and placed it carefully away in a bamboo. 
 
 It is impossible to reach any house to-night, as the 
 next place is too far, and there is no water ; we there- 
 fore prepared to camp in the jungle. There was a 
 small stream called " Tadjum" in our vicinity, and as 
 it did not rain, a night in the woods was not at all 
 unpleasant. (To-day, six miles in four and a half 
 hours. Direction, S.S.W.) 
 
 A'pril 2nd.— A beautiful day broke upon us in our 
 forest beds. We awoke early, and our friends the 
 Dusuns soon came up. Away we went in a W.S.W. 
 direction, the path as usual leading over ridges and 
 hills varying from 1000 to 2000 feet, " Tadjum " and 
 Labuk vales away in the distance. At 2.30 we de- 
 scended into the Bendowen vale. The place was sur- 
 rounded by hills, some rising as high as 4000 feet. 
 We shortly after arrived at the banks of the Bendowen 
 river, a rushing stream about forty yards broad; in 
 the wet season more than 100. It comes down from 
 the Bendowen hills, which are about three days' journey 
 away, if one follows the river. To-day we have been 
 travelling over a clayey country, the clays getting 
 harder and harder, until here at Bendowen the 
 transition into slate is complete. The cause of meta- 
 morphism is also at hand in the shape of vast masses
 
 Up the Labuk River and Oveidand to Kiidat. 201 
 
 of quartz. The slate at Benclowen is excellent, and 
 an extended search for minerals is advisable all up the 
 river. (To-daj, ten miles in five and a half hours.) 
 
 We left Bendowen in the morning after a splendid 
 bath in the stream. The temperature down to 60°, 
 a thing which I never observed before. It was, in- 
 deed, quite cold, and the moisture in the breath con- 
 densed as it issued from one's mouth. Degadong's 
 people turned out rather sneaks. There was plenty of 
 time to come to Bendowen village yesterday instead 
 of camping out on the stones near the river. They 
 had stated we should not get there before dark, 
 whereas we could get there in half an hour. They 
 also disputed over every inch of cloth (their wages as 
 guides and baggage bearers), would not accept black, 
 must have blue, &c. The Bendowen people received 
 us very kindly. The people gave me some pieces of 
 iron pyrites, which they thought was " Sarring " 
 (copper). 
 
 Aiyr'il 4th. — To-day I was initiated into the brother- 
 hood of the Bendowen Dusuns. The old men and all 
 the tribe having assembled, the ceremonies began. 
 First the jungle was cleared for about twenty yards, 
 and then a hole dug about a foot deep, in which was 
 placed a large water-jar. In this country these jars 
 are of enormous value : $30, $40, aad even $100 of 
 gutta being given for a single jar. The bottom of the 
 jar in question was knocked out so as to render it use- 
 less in future. The clay taken out to make the hole 
 was thrown into the jar, and now the " old men " 
 commenced declaiming, " Oh, Kinarringan, hear us ! " 
 — a loud shout to the Kinarringan. The sound echoed 
 away down the valleys, and as it died, a stone was
 
 202 North Borneo. 
 
 placed near the jar. Then for half an hour the old 
 men declared that by fire (which was represented by a 
 burning stick), by water (which was brought in a 
 bamboo and poured into the jar), and by earth, that 
 they would be true to all white men. A sumpitan 
 was then fetched, and an arrow shot into the air to 
 summon the Kinarringan. We now placed our four 
 guns, which were all the arms my party of eight mus- 
 tered, on the mouth of the jar, and each put a hand in 
 and took a little clay out, and put it away. Finally 
 several volleys were shot over the place, and the 
 ceremony terminated. 
 
 It was now noon, so we got away as quick as pos- 
 sible. Our journey lay over a hill, which was at least 
 4500 feet high ; we crossed the "Nobow," " Peringan," 
 and " Gopie " streams, all tributaries of the " Kala- 
 gion," which itself is a tributary of the Labuk. We 
 forded the latter stream, and followed its course for 
 some little distance. Its banks give capital exposures 
 of slate and quartz, but I observed no other mineral. 
 In the evening we arrived at " Senendan." Four 
 houses, seventy men, eighty women, headmen or 
 "Orang Kaya," " Gitan " and " Geusonar." In all 
 we did about seven miles in five and a half hours. 
 Direction, N.N.W. 
 
 I stayed at "Senendan" the next day to rest 
 and recruit the men, who threatened to break down. 
 Orang Kaya, Pindar, of Bendowen, when we went 
 through the " fowl-cutting ceremony," gave me the 
 name of Datu Tomongong ; he being Orang Kaya, 
 Tomongong, and his brother chief, Orang Kaya, 
 Sibandar. Both these chiefs had accompanied me as 
 far as Senendan, and they left to-day with many pro-
 
 up the Labuk River and Overland to Kiidat. 203 
 
 testations of frieDclship. The people are all in the 
 midsfc of their rice harvests, and it is splendid weather. 
 If we only had enough provisions nothing could be 
 pleasanter than our journey. I am anxiously ex- 
 pecting Smith. The Dusuns at Senendan want to cut 
 a fowl's head with me to-morrow ; I would rather not, 
 as it delays our journey so much ; but to refuse would 
 perhaps be dangerous, and we are such a small party. 
 The people here are very thrifty and very dirty ; they 
 seldom bathe, but they pick up every grain of rice 
 which falls as they are husking it. They call me 
 pinai ; had never seen a rifle, paper, matches, or a 
 candle. I explained and showed them my Winchester 
 rifle, and, instead of being afraid, as was the case with 
 Mr. Witti, the Senendan people wished to buy all our 
 guns. The price offered was one gong for one gun. 
 
 Before leaving the next morning I was again obliged 
 to go through the fowl-cutting ceremony. This time 
 two water-jars were bin^ied. Water and fire were not 
 used, but were replaced by spear-heads and sumpitan 
 darts. These were carefully placed in the jars, into 
 which I also dropped a note for the ghosts. Then 
 followed the usual harangue and placing a stone. The 
 whole proceedings were this time very serious, and 
 the place was chosen near a footpath in order to let 
 people see where the first white man in Senendan 
 made friends with the tribe. All being over, volleys 
 were fired, and away we went in great good humour, 
 and with half the people in Senendan at our backs. 
 
 On our way we passed a solitary grave, marked by 
 a rough stone ; the rank grass grew high and green 
 upon it. When I noticed it, one of the headmen was 
 on his knees busily tearing away the grass and talking
 
 204 
 
 North Borneo. 
 
 to tlie dead man's " gliost." He was telling liim that 
 the white man had come, and was friends with the 
 
 
 /. 
 
 ^. 
 
 T^ 
 
 />^''/t/. 
 
 
 
 mmrm tM 
 
 TALKING TO THE DEAD MA>''S GHOST. 
 
 \{From a Drawing by W. H. Margetson.) 
 
 Senendan people. The dead man was the brother of 
 the chief. The Muruts* here are much tattooed. 
 
 * "The Muruts are head-takers, tut do not preserve the heads as do 
 the Dyaks ; they keep the skulls, or will even divide the skull of an 
 enemy into several shares. They take also the finger-nails of their 
 enemies, which they display as trophies outside their houses. In the 
 case above alluded to, where Basilan was killed, the Muruts seized a 
 poor old Paluan woman who had long lived among them, bound her 
 and set her on a bamboo grating over the open grave of the murdered 
 man. Then the brother of the deceased stabbed her, and any one of 
 the bystanders who wished did the same, her blood falling on the
 
 up the Lab Ilk River and Overland to Kit da t. 205 
 
 Those men who have fought, or have gone on bold or 
 risky expeditions, are tattooed from the shoulders to 
 the pit of the stomach, and all down the arms in 
 three broad parallel stripes to the wrists. A head-man, 
 or rather a sometime headman of Senendan, had two 
 square tattoo marks on his back. This was because 
 he ran away in fight, and showed his back to the enemy. 
 Another and a braver chief was elected in his place. 
 
 A gentle incline brought us to the top of a hill, 
 where we waited a short time to enjoy the splendid 
 view. Xalalu, which is not far away, was bearing 
 337°. From Byag, the kampong where we are to 
 spend the night, the people go to the foot of the final 
 precipice in three days. The "Dendagong" hills, 
 near Menkabon^, lay in the distance bearing 215°. 
 We now descended into Byag, which is a curious little 
 mountain village, no long bouses, but all small ones, 
 built on a steep incline. There are ten houses con- 
 taining sixty men and fifty women. Headman, 
 Caronne. The people cannot tell how long since they 
 settled at Byag, but more than 100 harvests ago. 
 
 There is a large pool at Byag, forty yards in dia- 
 meter. The old man says there is a lake at "Longat," 
 two days' journey from here. The people have a 
 splendid harvest, and all t.he rice-fields are full of 
 cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, &c. The soil seems 
 capital. (Three miles in two hours. Direction, 
 N.N.W.) 
 
 corpse. After this her skull was divided among the chiefs; and I saw 
 the principal chief decorate the plot of ground before his house with 
 a part of the skull, having the long hair attached, and the ten finger- 
 nails, five on a pole, as supporters, the pole being decorated with 
 rihands of the skin of the banana plant:" — L. E. de Crespigny in the 
 Sarawak Gazette, quoted in Borneo Herald, April, 1885.
 
 2o6 North Borneo » 
 
 VII. 
 
 Afril nil. — Left Byag for the purpose of examining 
 tlie river wliich flows along the valley. We forded the 
 "Aona" stream running into the " Tjmpae," a tributary 
 of the Labuk, and at 9.30 arrived at the " Lilompatie," 
 which is an important tributary of the Labuk, running 
 E . This stream is now only thirty yards wide, but in the 
 wet season it must be 100, and deep enough to float the 
 biggest ships, although it can now be crossed with the 
 water no higher than one's waist in places. We walked 
 up this stream with immense difficulty, climbing over 
 enormous boulders and fallen trees, where a slip would 
 have ensured a broken leg, if not something worse. At 
 10.0 we arrived at the " Kinang-Konang," a rapid little 
 tributary of the Lilompatie on the right bank. The 
 natives said there was copper here. There were two 
 capital sections of the river exposed ; the formation 
 still consists of grey slate and quartz. From the 
 quartz at its junction with the slate were running 
 small streams of water, coloured red from the presence 
 of oxide of iron. This told a sad tale of only iron 
 pyrites. I soon had the men at work with pick and 
 spade, and we got some quartz containing unmistakable 
 iron pyrites. I took a sample, and as it was raining 
 heavily, we made the best of our way back to Byag. 
 
 We resumed our journey in the morning, and shortly 
 after leaving Byag arrived at the banks of the Lilom- 
 patie. The road lay as usual over high hills. Having 
 waded through the river up to our middles, we stopped 
 on the opposite side to go through the ceremony of 
 brotherhood with the headman of Byag, who accom- 
 panies me to the next village, and also with " Orang
 
 up the Labuk River and Overland to Kiidat. 207 
 
 Kaya Dorrok," the chief of " Niasanne," our resting- 
 place for to-iiight. No water-jars were buried, but 
 three stones were placed in a triangular fashion, and 
 two fowls were slaughtered. The spot selected Avas 
 close to the woodland path ; this is an important point. 
 "We fired three volleys, and I held the feet of the two 
 fowls, whose bodies were left to rot. The ceremony 
 over, we marched on to Niasanne, which is a beautiful 
 little village high up in the hills ; and yet surrounded 
 on all sides by mountains stretching away in the 
 distance to Lab.uk. These mountains are composed 
 entirely of quartz, and the soil is excellent. The 
 people are well-made, and I particularly noticed the 
 absence of skin diseases among them, and also of 
 smallpox-marked persons. This I have noted since 
 leaving Bendowen. They are very simple ; eagerly 
 snatch up empty cartridge-cases and tins without con- 
 tents, for which they will carry my baggage for miles. 
 They shave their heads hke the Chinese, leaving 
 a patch at the back and two small tufts at the 
 ears. All the men and women wear much brass, 
 but earrings are not at all popular. " Niasanne " 
 headman, " Dorrok ; " 14 houses ; men, 47 ; women, 
 35. The people here have cocoanuts, limes, oranges, 
 mangosteen, plantain, jack-fruit, sago (which they use 
 only for making ataps), betel, durian, rice, Indian 
 corn, cotton, tobacco, melons, cucumbers, sweet pota- 
 toes, lemon-grass, kaladiums, a kind of onion, rope- 
 tree, &c. The soil is very fertile, and the tobacco plant 
 growing out in the open reaches a height of three to four 
 feet. Their livestock includes goats, karubas, pigs, 
 and fowls. Niasanne is the most favoured kampong I 
 have yet seen or am likely to see, I expect. They have
 
 2o8 NortK'Borneo. 
 
 a good fence round their village, and liave capital 
 paths. 
 
 A'pril 9th. — Amid the adieus of all the tribe we left 
 Niasanne, and crossing a small tributary of the Labuk, 
 which was full of boulders of a blackish rock contain- 
 ing iron pyrites, we proceeded on our X.N.W. course. 
 The road lay as usual over hills and down dales ; one 
 moment we were crawling like flies up a shppery hill, 
 at another shooting down a mountain side towards the 
 valley. The Muruts know their own country well, but 
 out of their district little or nothing. I remember, 
 at Mentapok, asking how long it would take to get to 
 Nabalu ; the answer was three months ; at Datu Seri- 
 kaya's a year was mentioned as a probable time. 
 
 On our journey we passed "Gerass" village; 13 
 houses, headman, "Gompian;" men,34; women, 25; and 
 a little distance further we arrived at Gompian's second 
 village, " Mereganan ;" houses, 10; men, 40; women, 
 27. At these kampongs there are extensive clearings 
 on the hillside, and orange-trees, lemon-trees, mangor- 
 tun, durian, plantain are plentiful. We regaled our- 
 selves with oranges, which, though very sour, were 
 very acceptable. Although the " dry season," it has 
 rained heavily, and yesterday was showery. We were 
 all thoroughly wet as we trudged along in a N.N.E. 
 direction. At 11.30 we sighted a great grass plain, 
 which is Danao. If this were only a lake the view 
 would be complete. At one time the place may have 
 been covered with water ; the hills rising out of it tend 
 to convey that idea. All this country is very hot in the 
 day and cold at night. I notice the contents of my 
 phenol bottle are always solid at night and liquid in the 
 dajtime ; 63° is a nightly temperature, while 90° is
 
 up the Labuk River and Overland to Kudat, 209 
 
 frequent in tlie sliacle during the day. Headman 
 Gompian accompanied us a little way, and would pre- 
 sent me with a spear. Shortly after he left us I had a 
 narrow escape of being caught like a pig in a trap. 
 The trap was set right across the footpath, and I 
 struck the stick with my foot, when a sharp bamboo 
 swept round and only just missed my leg. 
 
 At 12.25 sighted Habalu, bearing 335°, and soon 
 after caught sight of the Labuk or Liogon, which we 
 had not seen for so long. The country is all cleared 
 here, and ancient paddy-fields with long cutting grass 
 six feet high for miles and miles was our road. In 
 the afternoon we arrived at Ghanaghana, on the right 
 bank of the Labuk. AVe were wet through, tired, and 
 dirty; and on taking off my boots I found my socks 
 literally drenched with blood from leeches. The leech 
 is the worst pest of the traveller in Borneo ; but just 
 now I feel the constant staring of the people rather 
 oppressive. Wherever I go and whatever I do, a 
 crowd of some eight or ten follow to stare and wonder. 
 At Ghanaghana the people received us rather churlishly, 
 but Durrok of Niasanne left us with friendly farewells 
 and the gift of a spear. At Ghanaghana the natives are 
 all in the middle of their paddy harvests. Men, women, 
 and children are busily engaged in storing the ric« 
 which had been cut during the day. At six o'clock they 
 all begin drinking a kind of " arrak." They prepare it 
 by placing cooked rice and water with cocoanut milk in 
 a bamboo, which they then seal up ; fermentation com- 
 mences, and in a week or so a spirit is produced, which 
 smells very much of ethylic acetate. At seven o'clock 
 the whole household was drunk ; men, women, and 
 children rolling on the floor, laugliing and shouting. 
 
 r
 
 2IO North Borneo. 
 
 I have one man who has broken down ; he can scarcely 
 drag himself along ; so we are very short-handed — 
 only seven in all. 
 
 Got but little sleep for the noise and shouting, which 
 was going on all night. Ghanaghana boasts 70 men ; 
 women, 55 ; houses, 12 ; headman, " Pindar." We had 
 some difficulty in procuring men to carry the things, and 
 all wanted a fathom each and their wages beforehand. 
 There were strings of human heads in all the houses in 
 Ghanaghana. I was not sorry to cross the Labuk and 
 leave the place. Crossed the stream Kinarang, flowing 
 W., and descended from the tableland Batokan. This 
 tableland is elevated about 400 feet above the Danao 
 plain. Leaving it, we struck the Labuk River again. 
 The stream is now about forty yards wide and some two 
 feet deep. In the wet season it always overflows and 
 floods the whole surrounding district. We followed 
 the Labuk for some distance, crossing and recrossing 
 several times. The boulders of phosphyrite granite 
 in the river are large, and are washed, I expect, from 
 Nabalu, which, from our present position, bears 335°. 
 At length we left the Labuk to the south of us, and 
 followed a tributary, the " Todongon," for some dis- 
 tance, leaving it eventually behind us, and going up to 
 Tuntoul. The Ghanaghana men here refused to carry 
 our things any further, and as five men out of the 
 nine had already got their wages (a fathom of red 
 cloth for a whole day), and it was now only 11.50 
 o'clock, I told them that if they persisted in deserting 
 me the other four would get nothing. Finally I had 
 them sent away and would hear no more from them. 
 They talked a good deal and loudly, but did nothing, and 
 presently disappeared. The Ghanaghana men have a
 
 up the Labitk River and Overland to Kiidat. 2 1 1 
 
 general bad character. I noticed that scarcely a man 
 of them was untattooed. Their enemies are the Loba 
 Murnts, and the Menkabong Dusuns and Badjows. 
 
 The " Tuntoul "' people are not very hospitable either, 
 and as our Ghanaghana " friends " told them that 
 they (the Ghanaghana men) got two fathoms of cloth 
 for carrying our things a couple of hours, the Tuntoul 
 people requested similar wages before they would work. 
 I talked the question over with them for a long time, 
 but to no purpose. I was anxious to get the wages 
 reduced, as I was afraid the store of cloth would not 
 hold out. At length I thought of empty tins. They 
 took them at once, and liked them better than cloth. 
 In the meantime food is getting shorter and shorter. I 
 ate my last biscuit yesterday ; milk and sugar have 
 long since been finished ; fowls, salt, and potatoes form 
 my food, with tea, of which there is a little left. Half 
 a bottle of brandy is all I have in the shape of liquor, 
 and Smith not yet heard of. 
 
 Ghanaghana to Tuntoul, about five miles, in three 
 hours ; main direction, N.E. Tuntoul, Orang Kaya, 
 Gonkolat; men, 49 ; women, 33; houses, 10. 
 
 viir. 
 
 A'^ril \\i\i. — Left Tuntoul in a northerly direction, 
 and crossed the " Pasabau" River, Kina Balu bearing 
 318°. Again following the Labuk for an hour, we left 
 the river, I think, for good. We marched across 
 Danao Plain,^ with the tall rank grass on both sides of 
 
 * ]\rr. Witti's first great expedition was from ]\Iarudu Bay to Pappar, 
 and he finislies his diary report of it in terms of congratulation which 
 may be quoted here with interest as illustrative of the work of his 
 young scientific colleague. Closing his record of a hrief trip of four 
 
 p 2
 
 2 1 2 Noi'tJi Borneo. 
 
 us, and arrived at " Sinoront." Headman, Indadtong ; 
 houses, 13; men, 30; women, 55. This is not five 
 minutes' walk from Danao village. Had I known, we 
 ought to have gone on to Koligan to-day, but the 
 Dusuns will never take us past the first village. 
 
 The people of Sinoront Mr. AVitti speaks of as 
 having formerly been head-hunters ; I think they not 
 only were so, but are so. 1 saw the three dozen skulls 
 taken in former times, which Mr. Witti mentions, and 
 also on the same row a very new one. The fresh 
 addition was taken some four months ago from a 
 Suluman. The unfortunate was a slave of Datu 
 Serikaya, of Tanda Batu, in the Labuk. This man was 
 sold to " Degadong," the Dusun chief of Tonaorunn, 
 for gutta, paddy, and a gong. Degadong getting 
 tired of his slave, sold him to some travelling men of 
 Sinoront, who took him home to their village and 
 made him work in the fields. He tried to escape, and 
 so the savages took his head ; and his skull, still 
 white, hangs in the house on a line with those which were 
 taken ten years ago. It is new and fresh now, but 
 beginning to get smoked and black, and in a few 
 
 weeks, Mr. "Witti writes to the Company : — '• I cannot conclude with- 
 out expressing an earnest hope that my missing companions will reach 
 the coast as safely as we fovir did. Tlien only dare I look back to 
 our trip with a tiny bit of satisfaction. I shall then repeat to myself 
 what I heard my faithful dozen talk over when we had emerged on 
 Danao Plain. They questioned one another : What will our old men 
 at TampasiiJc say ? ' What will my employers say ' is the query with 
 me. . . . Whenever we came to a place for the first time there Ave 
 dare show our faces again. To make sure of this required a good deal 
 of attention, for the natives are rather mixed in their temper ; genial 
 in some villages, churlish in others. ... A gracious Providence let 
 me carry the drug against sumpitan-dart and snake poison in my vest 
 pocket, from Bongon to Pappar, without making me resort to it."
 
 up the Labiik River a7id Overland to Kiidat. 213 
 
 montlis' time will not be distinguishable from its grim 
 companions.^ 
 
 We stayed to-night at Danao, which is distant odIj 
 200 yards from Sinoront. Danao : men, 40; women, 
 35. When Mr. Witti was here the population was 
 much larger. A great many people have left, owing 
 to fright of the Muruts, who made a raid here 
 about seven months ago. The people from Lebu 
 came down on Danao at night, and firing a volley 
 from their sumpitans into the sleeping-house, they 
 rushed in, took seven heads from one house and three 
 from another, one a woman's. During the fight one 
 of the Lebu men fell, and his head, still new, hangs 
 in the Danao house. The method of attack of these 
 Muruts,'' and indeed of all the tribes, is cowardly in the 
 extreme. It ought to be called head- stealing, not liead- 
 hiuiting. They wait in the bush watching the house 
 all day, and about three o'clock in the morning, when 
 every one is asleep, they enter the house, take as many 
 heads as possible, and decamp at full speed. 
 
 The Danao people have a kind of second storey to 
 their houses, to wdiich they climb in the wet season, 
 
 ^ Formerly the Danao Dxisuns were head-hunters. In the house 
 of the headman here there are still preserved three dozen skulls, 
 forming no doubt an heirloom. Among the skulls in question, Witti 
 noticed two which were taken from children, " and it is remarkable 
 how firmly set and how white the teeth in all of them are." Previous 
 travellers have shown that in the head-hunting districts of Borneo 
 small heads, those of women and children, are considered most honour- 
 able, as evincing especial courage in the captors, it being undei-stood 
 that the tribes attacked would fight hard for their women and chil- 
 dren. — The New Ceylon. 
 
 '' It was a company of ^luruts who massacred poor Witti and his 
 followers about a year after these diary notes were Avritten.
 
 2 1 4 North Borneo. 
 
 when all the lower part is uuder water. They told me 
 that in the wet season the whole of the plain was a 
 sheet of water for sometimes more than a month. 
 Tuntoul to Danao, three miles, in two and a half 
 hours; direction, N. 
 
 Ajnil ]2th. — Pushing on early this morning, we 
 soon left Danao Plain behind us, and entered the woods 
 again. The rice-fields on the plain are all fenced 
 round, and windmills set to frighten birds away. 
 Crossing the Meusaban and Nogorass streams, we 
 arrived without incident at Koligan. We have had 
 bad weather lately; the rain always begins in the 
 middle of the day with thunder, and lasts until evening. 
 
 Koligan: 3 houses ; men, 21; women, 25; old 
 man, Sabong. Danao to Koligan, seven miles, in 
 three and a half hours; main direction, N.N.W. 
 
 The people were engaged in killing pigs here, and 
 the noise was very great. They fasten the animal's 
 legs and then thrust a sharp bamboo right up to the 
 animal's heart. The curious part of the operation is 
 that from the moment the bamboo enters the body the 
 animal makes no more noise. 
 
 There was a dead man in one of the houses here, and 
 I went to see him. He was placed in a sitting posture 
 dressed in all the things he had ; a cigarette was being 
 held to his mouth ; and a brass box containing betel, 
 &c., was open before him. His friends were seated 
 around, and were telling the dead man not to go to the 
 right or left, as they were the wrong roads, but to keep 
 straight ahead, " and that is the way to Kina Balu." 
 This ceremony lasts one day and one night, and the 
 next day the man is buried with most of his material 
 belongings.
 
 up the Labuk River and Overland to Kiidat. 2 1 5 
 
 Ap^'il loth. — Our path from Koligan lay over a level 
 country, watered by numerous streams and rivers. 
 One important river, the " Lukau," running E.S.E. 
 into the Sugut, was crossed this morning. It evidently 
 rises in or near Kina Balu, as boulders of porphyritic 
 granite are plentiful. Had I means and food I should 
 like to examine the Sugut rivers, and this is a work 
 that must be done in the near future. Another 
 member of the Sugut system, the Silam-silam, was 
 crossed soon after, course N. by E. Presently we 
 arrived at Bonkud : old man, Gunsanad ; men, 22 ; 
 women, 30 ; houses, 5. AYe crossed the Pangkatan, 
 where the Bonkud people get their water, and arrived 
 at a lar^e village, Limaousse, at eleven o'clock. 
 Limaousse : old men, Garanter and Gendioug ; men, 
 31 ; women, 37 ; houses, 7. Arrived at Marang- 
 Parangat 3.30 : old man, Egongad ; men, 10 ; women, 
 15 ; houses, 2. The country is called Gophon. In 
 the afternoon we arrived at the Lunganan, and crossed 
 into Lasas tired to death at 3.30. 
 
 IX. 
 
 Our KoliQ:an bao-g^ao^e-bearers, folio win sf the same 
 plan as the Danao, Tuntoul, and Glianaghana people, 
 lingered behind, and tried in every way to make us lose 
 time. Getting tired of this, I told every one that they 
 must get to Lasas to-night, and pushed on alone. For 
 hours we went up hill and down dale, until all at once 
 the path lost itself in a rice-field. About two miles 
 back we had passed a rice hut, from which all the 
 people ran at our approach. Being quite lost, I 
 thought the best thing would be to get back there. 
 This was, however, easier said than done, and shortly
 
 2 1 6 North Boriieo. 
 
 afterwards we were wandering at random in a bamboo 
 jimgle. It was about an hour before one of my men 
 found the path from a Dusun rice reaper, who, however, 
 refused to tell us the way without we gave him a 
 *' cigarre," which is not a smoke, but the Dusun for 
 "three feet of cloth." So we paid the fellow and he 
 showed us the way, our course being N. by E. We 
 hurried on now quicker than ever, as rain-clouds were 
 gathering and the rumble of distant thunder warned 
 us of the approach of the daily storms. On arriving at 
 Marang-Parang I found that only two men had kept up 
 with me, the others being miles behind. We pushed 
 on, however, for our rendezvous at Lasas, fording a 
 large river, the Lunganan, one of the h^ads of the 
 Sugut. Lasas is situated on the left bank of this 
 river. It rained in torrents ; and wet us through 
 before we got to Lasas, which we did at 3.30, quite 
 tired out. In vain I waited for my baggage-bearers to 
 come up, and night came without them. They carry 
 all my food, my hammock, rugs, table-chair, canteen, 
 everything in fact. I at Lasas to-night have nothing 
 to eat, nowhere to sleep, and what is more important, 
 no change of dry clothes. However, I manage to sup 
 off sweet potatoes and melons, and being very tired go 
 to sleep. 
 
 April 14th. — Lasas : old men, Lingie and Linkapan ; 
 houses, 8; men, 170; women, 200. I got up feeling 
 hot and tired from the effects of yesterday. About 
 eleven o'clock all my baggage-bearers came up. They 
 had slept in the jungle all night, the Dusun s from 
 Koligan refusing to bring the things along. Soon 
 afterwards who should come up but Smith, with all 
 his men and plenty of provisions from Sandakan. To-
 
 up the Lahik River and Overland to Kiidat. 2 1 7 
 
 day was a great day for me, as my food was finislied, 
 and I had been living on Dusun fowls for a long time 
 past. Smith had travelled overland from Tampias, 
 partly following Mr. Witti's route, via Mirowandei, 
 Beyaon, and Lausat. 
 
 The next day I left Lasas, twenty- three men in all ; 
 crossed the Lungalan ; took from the bank a bearing of 
 Kina Balu, 280°. At seven we arrived at the village 
 of Banter; headman, Linkapan, of Lasas; men, 30; 
 women, 35; houses, 5. We soon crossed theMokodar, 
 which is the Sugut proper. (D. jN".) Kina Balu now 
 bearing 265°. Having again crossed, we left the Sugut 
 and proceeded over " Garass " hill (misprinted, in Mr. 
 Witti's diary. Paras). The hill, as well as much of the 
 surrounding country, is composed entirely of steatite, 
 massive, olive green, and much less pure than that of 
 Tauah Dumpas. Mr. Witti speaks of this hill as 
 follows : " We came, on its southern slope, to an out- 
 crop of the same mineral as Sheriff Shea had given me 
 a sample . . . should the mineral prove of industrial 
 importance the water-carriage will be at hand." 
 
 The mineral is of no value whatever, neither is there 
 a trace of any surface outcrop of any mineral of com- 
 mercial importance, although borings and careful 
 mineral search below the surface would be ad- 
 visable in this region, and when fixed up in " Kino- 
 ram " I intend to come here and make the necessary 
 investigations. 
 
 Lassas to Mituo, about twelve miles, in five hours ; 
 direction, N.N.E. Mituo, first village : headman, 
 Uinkol; men, 12; women, 15; houses, 2. Second village: 
 old man, Brontei; men, 12 ; women, 22 ; houses, 3. 
 
 Pushing N. wc left Mituo and went on to the Buudo
 
 2 1 8 North Borneo. 
 
 country ; Kina Balu bearing 250° from tlie first vil- 
 lage in Bundo, whicli consisted only of three houses. 
 Crossing the Kaponakan for the first time, we arrived 
 at the third and last village in Bundo, which is some six 
 miles from Mituo, a distance we performed in three 
 liours. 
 
 All the Dusuns now, ever since we left Glianaghana, 
 have behaved rather badly. They will tell any stories 
 to get an extra inch of clo^h out of us. For instance, 
 the Lasas, Koligan, Mituo, and Bundo people say they 
 cannot take us to Moroli. as there is a disease there, 
 and they are afraid of catching it. I am sure we shall 
 find at Moroli that this is untrue. As^ain, last nio-ht 
 the Mituo people said we could see the lights of Bundo 
 fromtheirhouse, and theypointed to some distantlights, 
 which 1 found afterwards were in a paddy hut of their 
 own, in which, for that night, some men were staying. 
 
 Leaving Bundo, our course lay along the Kapona- 
 kan, which river we crossed five times ; our direction 
 being N.X.W. to N.W. From Moroh, at which place 
 we arrived at 2.20, we had a splendid view. On the 
 horizon Mentapok was distinctly visible, bearing 133°. 
 A high hill to the S.S.W. of Mentapok must beBolin- 
 kadus, the source of the Kagibangan in the Lobu 
 country. 
 
 We made nine miles in four and a half hours durino; 
 the day (April 17), and of course, as I expected, there 
 is no sickness at Moroli. On the following day we go 
 on to Munnus, which is about fourteen miles away. 
 Travelling over some hills, we struck the Telusib, the 
 Munnus river, which runs into the Kinoram. Arriving 
 at Munnus we were not very well received ; I cannot 
 tell why. From Maoli to MunnuSjabout fourteen miles,
 
 up the Labiik River and Overland to Kndat. 219 
 
 in six and a half honrs ; main direction, N.W. Munnus : 
 Louses, 4; men, 100; women, 102; headman, no one. 
 Munnus is situated at tlie foot of Tumboyonkon hill 
 on the left bank of the Telusil, between that and the 
 Kinoram River, which runs not far away. Here a 
 Dusun gave me a small piece of pyrites, which he said 
 he had found in the river. I ground it up and went 
 through some reactions for copper without result, ex- 
 cept that I used all the specimen up. I went to sleep 
 and thought no more about it. 
 
 A'pv'd 19th. — Just as Ave were leaving, the man asked 
 for his stone back. I gave him some matches, and ex- 
 plained that I had used all his stone up. He then 
 replied that if the stone was not forthcoming in seven 
 days he would take a head from the first of my people 
 he met A\dth. I was nearly getting angry, but thought 
 better of it, and went away as quickly as possible. 
 This, however, only shows the spirit of the Munnus 
 Dusuns, who are the most churlish, ill-disposed tribe 
 I have yet seen. A tramp of six miles in a N.N.E. 
 direction brought us to Kinoram, and practically our 
 
 journey was over. 
 
 « «- X- * * * 
 
 Smith, who is ill, and nearly all the men (most of 
 them also ill), went on to Kudat. I stayed at Kino- 
 ram until April 24th, getting material ready for making 
 a house. 
 
 Subsequently I went down to Bongon,^ and had a 
 
 " " "Wliile Frank Ilatton was at Eongon," writes Colonel Hariiigton, 
 " I aiul Mr. Gucritz, then the Assistant Resident at Kudat, ■went off 
 in the Kudat Loat to visit the new statiori, where Frank had esta- 
 blished himself, in order that I could report on the stationing of a 
 police detachuient there. Gueritz wished to have an interview with
 
 2 20 North Borneo. 
 
 tremendous struggle getting stones and kajangs to 
 Kinoram in two pralius up tlie Kinoram River. The 
 river is quite unnavigable, full of rapids and waterfalls, 
 
 a certain sheriff who resided in that neighbourhood. After a hard 
 row and a pleasant sail — a favouring breeze having sprung up in the 
 afternoon — we reached the mouth of the river, and, taking in sail, 
 proposed to row and punt our way up. On reaching Bongon, to our 
 surprise, we heard that Frank was much farther up in the country, 
 and that he had gone into the bush. We determined to follow him up. 
 However, during the night, rain commenced to fall, and by morning 
 the river had become a torrent, and we had nothing to do but bolt, 
 as our supplies were running short. It is wonderful the way the river 
 filled up in the short time that elapsed from the time the rain 
 commenced to fall. The next morning we started, but took such a 
 lon-T time getting to the mouth of the river that by evening, instead 
 of being near Kudat — OAving to a strong head-wind — we were not half- 
 way across the inner portion of Marudu Bay, opposite the mouth of 
 the Bongon Ptiver, having rowed all the way. And then night fell, 
 and our crew began to crack up. They certainly at first were trying to 
 pull, but soon we saw that they were simply ' going through the motion ' 
 of pulling — dipping the heavy oars into the water and not putting any 
 back into the stroke. We decided to rest for the night, and having got 
 into shoal water, we dropped our anchor and wished for day. A more 
 miserable night I never passed, every pitch of the boat over the heavy 
 running sea nearly sending one over the side. And then as hour after 
 hour went by we wondered would day ever appear. Sleep was impossible 
 for us, though the natives slumbered peacefully, as if reposing on the 
 most comfortable of French beds. The lucky black can sleep anywhere, 
 at any time, and in any position. At length morning broke, and we 
 rowed to the shore, to a little village (inhabited by Bajows, I think), 
 where we got some fowls and cooked a breakfast — luckily having a 
 tin of cocoa and milk left. I never relished a meal more, being des- 
 perately hungry — our dinner the evening before consisting of half a 
 tin of ' sweet biscuits, washed down by some Hollands strong waters ' 
 not the sort of dinner one would order as a rule. After our break- 
 fast we said adieu to the Bajows, and put off again ; and a fair wind 
 having sprung up, we hoisted our sail and got back to Kudat about 
 midday, completely done up, and utterly disgusted at the failure of our 
 attempt to visit Frank and his new station."
 
 up the Labuk River a7id Ovei'land to Kndat. 221 
 
 and subject to the most sudden floods. No prahu lias 
 ever navigated the river before, but with my usual 
 good luck I got all the things up ; nothing lost and 
 no one hurt. 
 
 My subsequent proceedings in Kinoram will appear 
 at length in my Kinoram report. Suffice it to say 
 here that I have obtained an excellent specimen of 
 native copper from the Kinoram river near Kias, and 
 that sulphide of antimony has been brought to me from 
 the Marudu river, to which place my steps will now be 
 directed. 
 
 I have been in the Bornean bush from March 1st 
 until June loth, and travelled several hundred miles 
 by land and river. 
 
 KINA BALXI, FEOM OIIIXrMBAUE (EVEMXG).
 
 222 North Borneo. 
 
 IV. 
 
 FOUR MONTHS IN THE DISTRICTS OF 
 KIXORAM AND THE MARUDU.^ 
 
 Looking for antimony and copper — Tlie Marndu valley — In the 
 bed of the Kinoram Eiver — Dangers and difficulties — Camping 
 in a cave tenanted by bats and swallows — A romantic night 
 — The horrors of leeches and ticks — Immense ravines — The 
 natives " prayed me for rain "—Superstition obstructs the way 
 — The " reported antimony " tracked to its " reported " hill — A 
 treacherous guide — Sayup objects to white men — Discovery of 
 copper — Descending a precipice — Limestone containing iron 
 pyrites and a small percentage of copper. 
 
 I. 
 
 I AURIVED in Kinoram from Labuan on the 23 rd of 
 July, 1882. 
 
 FIEST VISIT TO THE MAEUDU. 
 
 July 26th. — Proposing to find the source of the 
 
 ^ Tliis report is marked "Kinoram, Xo. 1. — Eeport in diary form of 
 investigations conducted in Kinoram and the surrounding districts 
 during the months of July, August, September, and October, 1882." 
 I have searched for *' Kinoram, Xo, 2." The Company have no such 
 document, and it is possible that the notes for this report may have 
 been lost with the diaries. There is, however, the following letter to 
 the Governor, which indicates reasons for postponing the preparation 
 of a complete and finished report, with maps, &c. ; and the house at 
 Kinoram referred to in this chapter is mentioned in the letter as
 
 FoiL7' I\Ionths in Kinoi'am and the Marndii. 223 
 
 Marudu River, in order to investigate the whole of 
 this stream for the reported antimony, we left Kinoram 
 
 in contemplation. The present diary-report therefore refers to a 
 second visit to the Kinoram, though it chronicles the first exploration 
 of the Marudu : — 
 
 ''Kinoram, April 20tJi, 1882. 
 " My dear IMr. Treacher, — I have arrived safely at Kinoram 
 after some difficulty and a very long and hard journey from the 
 mouth of the Labuk to the present coimtry. My object was to ex- 
 plore the Labuk and its tributaries for antimony. I went within three 
 days' journey of the source of the former river, and examined more 
 than thirty tributaries, but to no purpose ; and I am of opinion that 
 for surface outcrops the Labuk district is quite wanting in useful 
 minerals. I also think that, the pieces of sulphide of antimony 
 handed to me never came out of the Company's territory. 
 
 "■ I am much pleased with Kinoram, and I think it may turn out a 
 good mineral country when properly explored. In order to do this 
 I am now gouig to make a house in this country, and store food and 
 other things. I have sent a list of things required down to Mr. 
 Everett and Mr. Cook, and I am waiting here for them. I was 
 unable to explore the country from Tampias on the Labuk to 
 Kinoram, as food, trading goods, cloth, and everything were short, 
 and our only object was quick travelling in order to get stores from 
 Kudat. I reserve my full report and map until I have settled the 
 copper, wliich I think exists at the head of the Kinoram Eiver. 
 
 "Smith has had to endure a good many hardships, and if you deem 
 it advisable, I think a small bonus would be avcU given. If you 
 think fit, Smith returns to Sequati to finish his work there. He 
 wants eight or ten men, and the sooner he goes the better, as I am 
 most anxious to finish that investigation. I can get on quite Avell in 
 here by myself, and am great friends with the Dusuns. I should 
 like to make Kinoram my headquarters for mineral exploration, and 
 from here go up the rivers Kinoram, Kapona, Kau, Sujut, Telusih, &c., 
 all of which may yield metals, but I must have a place to fall back 
 \ipon, and a place where 1 am sure of getting food. 
 
 " Among the Dusuns in some parts we had extreme difficulty in 
 getting food. I want also five police and a headman, Housin, if 
 possible, with guns, &c., as the whole; country is in a most unsettled 
 state and full of head-hunters. JNIy mandon^, Saliat, and Smith have 
 full instructions what to bring me from Kudat, and }uy boy goes to
 
 224 N'ortk Boi'nco. 
 
 to-day, and walking some five miles, direction "W-N-W., 
 arrived at Mumus. Oar course now lay along the 
 Kinoram for about two miles, but we left the river at 
 Kias, and struck across country in a N.W. direction, 
 towards some high hills in the distance. Arrived 
 towards night on the banks of the Pengopuyan, a 
 tributary of the Marudu, we pitched our camp there 
 under the shelter of some cocoanut-trees. We are only 
 about three miles from Kias, and the country is called 
 Lobah. The whole of the lower parts of the hills are, 
 or have recently been, under cultivation. The district 
 presents no features of interest, and is composed 
 entirely of sandstone. 
 
 Old man, Kambigging, chief of Pengopuyan, came 
 down last night, and goes with us to the source of the 
 Marudu. He advised me not to go down the river, as 
 the chief, G-ensalong, very much objected to my coming. 
 Leaving our camping-place, we continued our N.W, 
 course, getting a fine view of the mountain in which 
 the Kinoram has its source. This peak is called 
 Nonohan-t-agaioh (about 8000 feet). Nonohan has no 
 special meaning ; in Dusun Uagaioh means the great, 
 
 Labuan to fetch clothes, provisions, &c. Smith, being ill, returns 
 to Labuan before going to Secj^uati. I shall be "waiting my goods and 
 men from Kudat on the 27 th of April, by which date I shall hope to 
 hear from you. 
 
 " My route has been the following, and much of it was perfectly new, 
 and I the first Avhite man : — Paitan to Lamcut'e (Labuk River), 
 Tander Batu, Punjab, Tamponlon, Sujalitan, Kajibanjan, Tampias, 
 Tonaononin, Donalai, Bendonen, Senendan, Bejaj, !Niasanne, Ehaua- 
 jhaua, Tuntaul, Danao, Sinoront, Kolijan, Lasus, Bundo, Mituo, 
 Mirali. Munuis, Kinoram, and I have been travelling since March 1st. 
 
 " Ever yours very sincerely, 
 
 " (Signed) Fraxk Hattox."
 
 Four JMonths in Kinoram and the Marudu. 225 
 
 the "t" being merely put in for the sake of euphony. 
 It was bearing 203° from the spot above the Pengo- 
 puyan, while Tumboyonkon gave 1 62°. After repeatedly 
 crossing the Pengopuyan we arrived at the foot of 
 Madalon, which is about 4500 feet high, was distant 
 about two miles, and the highest point bearing 305°. 
 At noon we crossed a tributary of the Toaran, or 
 Marudu River, called the Sorab. The boulders of 
 sandstone here were mixed with some huge masses of 
 conglomerate, the cementing material in the latter rock 
 being silica. We shortly afterwards arrived at Pudi, 
 a Dusun village on the slopes of Madalon, and here we 
 put up for the night. Pudi : old man, Lounsah ; houses, 
 3; men, 12 ; women, 16; the place being about eight 
 miles from our last night's camp. 
 
 From Pudi our route to the head-waters of the 
 Marudu lay over a huge ridge, from the top of which 
 we had a splendid view of the whole of the mountainous 
 part of Borneo. The principal peaks were bearing as 
 follows : Tumboyonkon, 147°; Nonohan-t-agaioh, 170°; 
 Waleigh-waleigh (i.e. a house), 185°; Nabalu, 195°; 
 Sayup, 200°. 
 
 Descending from the hill we came down into the 
 Toaran, or Marudu valley. Here the river is merely 
 a torrent rushing down from Madalon. Taking a 
 north-north-westerly course, it flows through vast tree- 
 covered valleys, and between high cliffs for miles and 
 miles. Following down stream some distance, I came 
 upon a splendid section of cliff, with contorted ferru- 
 ginous clays interstratified with beds of limestone, 
 dipping at an angle of 20°, W.N.W. The natives say 
 that Kina Balu was, many years ago, on the sea-coast. 
 Geologically speaking, this might have been so at a
 
 2 26 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 recent period, as all the strata from Madalon is of 
 recent aqueous origin. The object of our journey 
 being ascertained — I had satisfied myself that the 
 Marudu rose in Madalon, and did not run from tlie 
 range of igneous mountains — I determined to go back 
 to Kinoram. 
 
 Mr. Beveridge returned from Kudat, where he had 
 been getting stores and men. Everything was now 
 ready for our journey up the Kinoram, which I pro- 
 posed to make in order to see if the river gave any 
 further specimens of the native copjoer which has been 
 found by a Dusun on one occasion lower down the 
 river, at the junction of a tributary called the Kias. 
 
 II. 
 
 Jidij 31s^. — V'p the Kinoi^am to the head-ivaters. — 
 With the intention of proceeding up the Kinoram 
 River to the head, and exploring the whole of the 
 bed in the height of the dry season, I left Kinoram 
 house on the 31st of July with Mr. Beveridge, 
 two Chinese gold-washers from Sarawak, one Malay 
 gold-worker, and twelve Malay police and car- 
 riers. Mr. Beveridge has already made one trip up 
 the river, which has two sources, one from the S.E., 
 w^hich he examined without result. He was twelve 
 days up the stream, endured many hardships, and was 
 at last obliged to return on account of sickness. We 
 all arrived at Mumus to-day, and put up for the night 
 in the Dusun house there. 
 
 Travelling right up the bed of the Kinoram Eiver, 
 and walking over boulders, which are here only small 
 in size, we arrived at Kias (the spot where the native
 
 Fotir Months in Kinoj'ani and the JMai'udu. 227 
 
 copper was found) in an hour and a quarter. From 
 here the new work of" our trip begins, as the Kinoram 
 has been thoroug-hly explored up to Kias, and, indeed, 
 examined right up to the head of one of the sources 
 by Mr. Beveridge. There remains the second source, 
 or the one from the S.W. Tumboyonkon was bearing 
 S., 10° W. from Kias as we commenced our journey 
 again, and the weather charming. 
 
 As we proceeded, our road became worse and worse, 
 and about two miles up the river we came to a very 
 diflBcult place — a long stretch of deep and rapid water, 
 with precipitous cliffs on either side. It took us until 
 night to get past this obstacle, which, however, we 
 managed to do by clinging on to the almost impassable 
 face of the cliflP by roots, trees, or any other hold we 
 could get. The men with heavy loads had a very hard 
 time getting past. The moment we were over, we 
 pitched our camp on the first place which offered, and 
 got some huts made as quickly as possible. I noticed 
 that the rock along the lower portions of Tumboyonkon 
 is limestone, of which there are many boulders in the 
 river, together with pieces of a dark, fine-grained 
 syenite, which must come from above. 
 
 Terrific work all the next day (August 2nd), climb- 
 ing over immense boulders, where a shp would simply 
 be fatal. Great landslips have occurred all along the 
 stream, and enormous boulders have consequently 
 blocked up the bed. The river flows along the spur 
 from Kina Balu, which, running N.N.E., culminates in 
 two peaks, Nonohan-t-agaioh, 8000 feet, and Tumbo- 
 yonkon, 6000 feet — the terminal mountain of the spur. 
 One branch of the river runs through a rugged ravine 
 from Nonohan-t-agaioh, and this is the true Kinoram. 
 
 (i 2
 
 2 28 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 The western, or soutli-western source comes down from 
 a mountain named Waleigli-waleigli (house), a part of 
 the northern Kina Balu spur. As we travelled along, 
 I noticed in a small cave in the rock some twenty 
 or thirty swallows' nests. They w^e greenish-white 
 below, and fixed to the rock by a white glutinous sub- 
 stance. They are said to be worth about $1 per catty. 
 Any description could not do justice to the diflBculty 
 of our road ; and the dangers and troubles we passed 
 through could only have been compensated by a great 
 mineral find. It commenced to rain in torrents about 
 one o'clock, and continued until about four. All this 
 time we were making our way slowly ahead, clinging 
 by hands and feet to the slippery moss, and trying 
 to prevent ourselves from being precipitated over the 
 falls, or breaking our necks and heads on enormous 
 stones. At four, being quite wet through, we camped 
 in a cave, or rather a hole formed of gigantic fallen 
 rocks, one fifty feet and one forty feet high, with eight 
 or ten of fifteen feet and upwards in height, forming 
 sides to the cave, which also ran some ten or twenty 
 feet into the living rock. The outer apartment was 
 filled with swallows, while the inner one was tenanted 
 by bats, whose guano covered the floor to a depth 
 of about eighteen inches — there being the same 
 thickness of birds' guano in the outer cave. A 
 very rank, mouldy, badger-like smell pervaded the 
 place, and on the roof were about 100 of the same 
 nests previously noted. It was a romantic night 
 sleeping there, with the men stowed away in crevices 
 and holes in the cliffs, the vast nature of the latter 
 being most impressive. The roar of the water outside, 
 as it dashed over fall after fall, the glare of the camp-
 
 Four Months in Kinorani and the JMarudu. 229 
 
 fire on rock and tree, the uncertainty of ever being 
 able to get back or forwards, with provisions for 
 only a few days, and not a living soul in the whole 
 country round ! The true primeval forest of Borneo 
 reigns supreme in these hilly fastnesses; and the 
 camphor and gutta trees near the source of the 
 Kinoram have yet to feel the axe of the trader and the 
 pioneer. We are now up the river about seven miles, 
 D. S.W. Seven miles of very hard travelling, and if 
 rain should flood the stream, retreat will be quite 
 impossible. 
 
 The rocks in the river-bed consist of boulders of 
 limestone, sandstone, syenites, serpentine greenstone, 
 and a conglomerate which rapidly decomposes. 
 
 Aiicj. Zvd. — Our direction to-day varied with the 
 turns of the river, at first W.N. AY., but afterwards 
 W.S.W., this being the true course. Leeches and 
 ticks (the latter especially) added horrors to our way. 
 When Mr. Beveridge was up here before, a tick got 
 into his arm, and the operation of removing it was very 
 painful. We passed through immense ravines, with 
 cliffs in one case rising 500 and 600 feet from the river- 
 bed. Vast boulders fallen from these enormous 
 "walls" lay strewn all around us, some of them of 
 great height. Over these the men had to climb, with 
 packs on their backs, and it was with the greatest 
 difficulty that they got along. In the afternoon we 
 arrived at a level spot between the hills, where a small 
 island divides the river. Here we camped for tlie 
 night. The chiefs of Marak-Parak and Pengopuj-au 
 were down on the river on a fishing expedition, having 
 come over the hills to the north of us, where they say 
 there is an easy pass into Lobah.
 
 230 North Borneo. 
 
 Our course up the river the next day was S.S.E., 
 and we left our camp in the early morning, so as to 
 get on as far as possible. As our rice was very low, I 
 sent two men over with Durahman, of Marak-Parak, to 
 buy rice in Lobah. Many of the men are down with 
 fever, five in all. Mr. Beveridge, four Malays, myself, 
 and the Chinamen pushed on up the river, leaving 
 the sick men behind at the camp with two days' rice 
 per man. We again had to contend with immense 
 boulders, mostly now consisting of igneous and meta- 
 morphic rocks. Further up the banks consist of the 
 same conglomerate, which has been noted in a former 
 report as forming the banks at Kinoram, and the 
 tableland as far as Pamaitan. Mr. Beveridge and the 
 Chinamen continually washed samples from the banks 
 and samples taken from various parts of the bed for 
 minerals, but found no trace of anything. At ] 1.30 we 
 arrived at the spot where the river is joined by its 
 largest tributary, which is about one-third the size of 
 the Kinoram proper; also got a sight of Nonohan-t- 
 aofaioh. The Kinoram from here takes a S.S.E. direc- 
 tion, while the tributary is followed in a S.W. Taking 
 the S.W. branch of the Kinoram, we followed up some 
 distance, searching almost step by step all along the 
 river for indications or traces of minerals. We had 
 not gone more than four miles when we came to the 
 foot of a fall some forty feet high, and pouring into a 
 pool some seven or eight fathoms deep, with perpendi- 
 cular cliffs on either hand. Standing on the brink of 
 this pool, one could see down fathoms deep. The roar 
 of the water, the dash of the spray on the rocks, and 
 the pleasant breeze which always blows down stream 
 in these mountain regions, were very agreeable, but I
 
 Fo2ir Alonths in Kinoi'aiii and the IMartidic. 
 
 2X\ 
 
 thought for a time that our further progress up the 
 stream was effectually stopped. Another consideration 
 was, that all along the stream we had not seen any 
 convenient place to camp, and it was already getting 
 dusk. "We tried the left bank, which had a somewhat 
 less steep slope than the right, and after an hour's 
 sharp climb we stood above the fall. A mile further 
 up we found a camping-ground, and here we rested for 
 the night. I had a great fire made at once, as the 
 nights are very cold up in these regions. Temperature 
 early morning noted 24*5° C. 
 
 AYe were on the move at a very early hour next 
 morning, and proceeding in a westerly direction. We 
 soon came upon the junction of a tributary, and a little 
 distance further up, the main stream again divided, one 
 branch coming from the S.S.E. and one from the S.S.W. 
 We followed the latter until it became a mere brook. 
 All these tropical rivers are made up of networks of 
 streams, draining considerable extents of land. It is 
 probable that even the largest does not rise in any deep- 
 seated spring, as in the dry season very little water 
 comes down the rivers, while in the rainy weather they 
 become boiling floods, which are quite impassable. 
 As none of our searching yielded even the minutest 
 trace of any mineral, I thought it as well to return, as 
 we have only rice enough for two more meals. We 
 reached a point about thirty miles from Mumus — that 
 is, following the windings of the river. At evening we 
 got back to our previous camp, rather cast down with 
 our continued want of success. 
 
 On the next day we ate our last meal, and finished 
 the rice this morning, after which we retraced our steps 
 to the camp where our sick men had been left, and
 
 2X1 
 
 North Borneo. 
 
 where, luckily, my men from Lobali had already arrived 
 with a good quantity of rice. 
 
 in. 
 
 Aug. nil. — All down the Marudu. — As the Kinoram 
 had given no further specimens of copper, I now 
 decided to leave the river, and crossing over the 
 country strike the head of the Marudu, and work down 
 this stream to somewhere near Bongon. It is not far 
 in a straight line across from the Kinoram at Bongon 
 to the Marudu. Leaving camp, therefore, we took a N. 
 to N.N.E. course, our road leading us over a high hill, 
 where the jungle was remarkable for the almost total 
 absence of undergrowth and the great size of the 
 timber. Dead leaves covered the ground to a thickness 
 of nearly one foot, and nowhere was there any exposed 
 outcrop of rock. Leaving the ridge, we descended by 
 a steep slope into Kias, and pushing on, soon put our 
 camp up at the cocoanut-trees on the Penyopuyan 
 previously mentioned. Kambigging, the chief, and a 
 lot of Kias people came down with vegetables and 
 fowls to sell, which was lucky, as our stores of tins 
 had been exhausted while on the Kinoram. 
 
 I was up very early the next morning, a pain in my 
 knee having kept me from sleeping. Not a soul was 
 stirring as I walked about the camp. The last embers 
 of the watch-fire were smouldering away. All the 
 grass and leaves were wet with the morning dew. The 
 men, stretched around in every conceivable position, 
 were huddled together in their blankets, for the 
 mornings here are damp and chill. Later on I found 
 that a regular breakdown of the health of our party
 
 Fottr ]\Ionths in Kinoi-am and the Mariidii,. 233 
 
 liad occurred, perliaps owing to the sudden change of 
 cHmate. Out of fifteen, seven were down with fever, 
 inchiding Mr. Beveridge and the two Chinamen. T 
 employed the morning dosing all hands with enormous 
 portions of quinine and Epsom salts. I waited here 
 all day in hopes of a change, but in the morning I 
 found the Chinamen and two Malays so ill that I sent 
 them back to Kinoram in charge of Dusuns. Mr. 
 Beveridge was better, so we started away on our trip 
 to Marudu. Our direction was at first N.W., which 
 afterwards changed to N., and we arrived at Pudi 
 shortly atter one o'clock, having travelled only six 
 miles. Every one, however, was quite done up, so we 
 made a stop at Pudi. I think the "roughing it" up 
 the Kinoram had tired out all the men. The house at 
 Pudi is a wretched, dirty place, and the people more 
 miserable and poor than most Dusuns. They " prayed 
 me for rain," sa3dng that if the heat continued, their 
 crops would wither and they would perish. All their 
 potatoes andKaladis are almost dead for want of rain, 
 and, indeed, the drought is rather severe. I told them 
 to ask their " Kinarahingan " (God) for rain ; but they 
 said it would be much better for me to ask the 
 Kinarahingan, as my prayers would surely be answered. 
 It is a curious superstition this of the Dusuns, to 
 attribute anything — whether good or bad, lucky or un- 
 lucky — that happens to them to something novel which 
 has arrived in their country. For instance, my living 
 in Kinoram has caused the intensely hot weather we 
 have experienced of late. This is attributed to me by all 
 the Dusuns of Kinoram, Mumno, Kias, Lobah — in fact, 
 everywhere. I can only conclude that the natives have 
 the most imperfect idea of time, for just now is the
 
 2 34 North Borneo. 
 
 close of tlie dry season, and therefore very hot and 
 dry. 
 
 Aucj. 10th. — Leaving Pudi for the Marudu, we took a 
 N.N.W. direction; Madalon, the source of the river, bear- 
 ing 295° from Pudi. Curious rumours about the Marudu 
 native chiefs had been current ever since we left 
 Kinoram. Kambigging, a very friendly chief, asked 
 me not to go there. " I took heat ; and Gensalong (the 
 Marudu chief) did not want either heat or me." After 
 some difficulty, however, we persuaded a guide to come 
 with us, and pushed on in earnest. 
 
 Having crossed several streams, we got a splendid 
 view of the Bornean highlands, with Nabalu towering 
 far away above all the others ; although "\Yaleigh- 
 waleigh, Nonohan, and Tumboyonkon are of no incon- 
 siderable height. Shortly afterwards we crossed the 
 Tonaran, running E.N.E. into the Marudu, which it 
 enters on the right bank, rising to the east of Madalon, 
 while the Marudu rises on the west. Madalon is about 
 4500 feet, a long high ridge, separated by a wide 
 valley from the igneous mountains of Borneo ; and 
 composed, judging from the rivers, entirely of lime- 
 stones and sandstones. Our course being still N., we 
 crossed several tributaries of the Tonaran; one of 
 these, which entered the Tonaran on the left bank, we 
 followed for some distance, but at length left it to the 
 south, and climbing a high hill, we descended, and once 
 more struck the Tonaran, running N.N.W. 
 
 Our road now lay right in the bed of the river, and 
 we had many opportunities of examining the boulders 
 in the bed, and of seeing capital sections of strata 
 exposed by the river. The boulders consisted exclu- 
 sively of limestone and sandstone. The former was
 
 Fo2ir Months in Kinoram and the IMarndn. 235 
 
 a liard, blue stone, similar in appearance to the moun- 
 tain limestone of England ; the latter a coarse-grained, 
 lightish-yellow rock, hard, and but slightly ferruginous. 
 The limestone in places contained veins of the crystal- 
 lized carbonate of lime, and often interbedded clays 
 of a reddish and sometimes greenish colour, evidently 
 altered by pressure, as the cleavage of these clays was 
 quite slaty in character. 
 
 Travelling down the river-bed we soon arrived at 
 the junction of the two sources of the Marudu, the 
 Tonaran rising to the west, and the Nonohashan, or 
 true Marudu, rising to the east of Madalon. The 
 course of the Marudu from Madalon is N.N.E., while 
 the Tonaran runs N.N.W. ; from the junction of the 
 two streams Madalon bears S.S.W. At four we 
 arrived at Pampang, the first of the chief Gensa- 
 long's villages. Pampang : 1 house ; old man, Louma- 
 haigne, but under Gensalong; 10 famihes, 26 men, 
 and 30 women. Pudi to Pampang about twelve 
 miles. 
 
 The people here were also "praying me for rain," 
 and would not be convinced that it was not in my 
 power to alter the state of the weather. 
 
 Leaving Pampang we still continued down the river, 
 passing the village of Moligo, arrived at Gensalong' s 
 country, Madanao or Kombaione, early in the after- 
 noon. I explained to Gensalong, who received me in a 
 very friendly way, that I did not intend to damage 
 his country, but tliat I had been informed that there 
 existed both birds'-nests and antimony in the neigh- 
 bourhood. He said he did not know of any, and, indeed, 
 could say certainly that there were none, and he pointed 
 out that had such things existed in his country, they
 
 236 North Borneo. 
 
 would long ago have been used as articles of trade. 
 Pampang to Madanao seven miles.^ 
 
 Aug. 12tJi. — From Kombaione to Bongon. Tliis 
 morning our party split up ; Mr. Beveridge returns to 
 Kinoram by the road we came, while I return via 
 Bongon and Timbang Batu, as stores have to be got 
 at Bongon. Kombarone : headman, Gensalong ; men, 
 300 ; women, 850 ; but, when all collected, about 1700 
 people in Lobah. From Gensalong's house we took an 
 E.N.E. direction. We travelled through flat land all 
 the way to Bongon, passing the villages of Ghoure, 
 3 houses ; Tandok, 3 houses ; headmen, Irasam and 
 Lomad; men, 40; women, 55: then Talentang, 4 
 houses ; headman, Engaioh ; men, 50 ; women, 65. 
 Our course changed as we left the Dusun countries to 
 the N.N.E., and we passed the Badjow kampongs 
 of Ranao, Sembilingan, 7 houses, and at length 
 arrived at Bongon at five, having done sixteen miles. 
 
 The next two days were occupied in Bongon, and 
 on the 15th I was back at the house in Kinoram. 
 
 Mr. Beveridge went down to Kudat for stores, a 
 fresh house was built in Kinoram, and a mining-hut 
 at Kias for prospecting. 
 
 Sept. 1st. — The men and Mr. Beveridge having 
 arrived, we all got away to Kias, where the work of 
 examining the Kias old and new river-beds had already 
 begun. Sokang, a Dusun, was going with me as guide 
 up the Upper Pengopuyan, from which place he had 
 brought a specimen of iron iryrites. 
 
 IV. 
 
 8ei)t. 2ml. — TJ]_i the rewjojnu/ a 11. —heft Kias for the
 
 Four Months in Kinorani and the Ma7'udii. 237 
 
 Pengopuyan, arriving at the " Cocoanuts," struck 
 the stream, and travelled up this river for some 
 distance. The road reminded me of the Upper 
 Kinoram, and it was a great struggle to get up 
 the rock ; at the spot where the iron pyrites were 
 taken is a compact bluish limestone, containing 
 veins of quartz. The pyrites occurred in the lime- 
 stone in concretionary nodules distributed through 
 the mass. Having examined the district, we left the 
 river to the north, and climbing a steep hill arrived 
 at Pelandimbon — 2 houses, 25 people. A hill 
 about 4000 feet high, near Tumboyonkon, was 
 bearing 193°. Extreme point reached on the Kinoram 
 exploring trip 220°. In the evening returned to 
 Kias. 
 
 Hei^i. 3r(?. — Search the Marudii. — Mr. Beveridge 
 has now started work at Kias, and as there was 
 nothing for me to do in assisting the work there, I 
 thought it a good opportunity to go to Madanao, and 
 explore for the antimony reported by Sheriff Shea. 
 I therefore collected a small party, and left Kias for 
 Kinoram. 
 
 Sept. hth. — The Dusuns are all very anxious about 
 the sickness at Kudat. Left Timbang Batu and 
 arrived at Bongon ; the buffaloes, which started from 
 Kinoram before us, have not yet arrived. They carry 
 all the blasting tools and a lot of provisions. Towards 
 night the two men in charge of the buffaloes came up 
 with the news that both animals had broken down, and 
 had been left at a place about four hours' journey from 
 Bongon. This will evidently delay us a day at least. 
 On the next day I had a sharp attack of fever, and did 
 not get away again until the 8th.
 
 238 North Borneo. 
 
 We got away to-day and arrived at Madanao in good 
 time. The old chief was very kind, and made us 
 presents of fowls, tarrap, and other fruit, rice, sugar- 
 cane, &c. 
 
 Se'pt. 9th. — The specimen of sulphide of antimony 
 shown to me by Sheriff Shea in Bongon, was reported 
 to have come from the hill at the back of Gensalong's 
 house, which was said to be composed entirely of 
 
 POEXEAIT OF ME. VON DOKOP. 
 
 antimony. There was also, I was informed, a Chinese- 
 made brass cannon on the summit, through which a 
 red deer or Jcejang could walk. This hill was to-day 
 thoroughly explored from foot to top, and the result 
 of all our investigations was the discovery that it was 
 composed of barren sandstone. There was no change 
 in the formation anywhere in the neighbourhood on 
 this side of the river, as the adjacent hills were all
 
 Fo2Lr Months in Kinorani and the Martid^t. 239 
 
 examiDed with exactly the same result. Mr. Von 
 Douop " came up from Bougon in the afternoon, and. 
 the following future journeys we made together. 
 
 Our attention on the following day was directed to 
 the hills on the left bank, which were found to con- 
 sist of limestone, with interstratified clays, all inclined 
 at a very high angle. A torrent rushing down from 
 the hills gave some capital exposures of strata, which 
 about the lower parts of the hill consisted of lime- 
 stone and clays, the sandstone being exposed on the 
 ridge from where the limestone has been removed by 
 denudation. The hmestone contained veins of calc- 
 spar, but was, as far as I know, quite destitute of 
 organic remains. 1 had several large rocks broken by 
 blasting, in order to obtain fossils, but never a trace 
 could we find. 
 
 The Dusuns were much alarmed at the blasting ; 
 they ran out of their houses with their hands to their 
 ears, and the chief was not a little pleased to learn 
 that we were leaving: him on the morrow. 
 
 We followed the Marudu River the whole way to 
 Pampang. Minute inspection of the river-bed revealed 
 no traces of minerals. Madanao 400 feet high ; Pam- 
 pang 800 ; our general direction was S. The formations 
 are still aqueous, consisting of alternating limestones, 
 sandstones, and clays. 
 
 The general dip of the strata at Pampang is 35°, 
 S.S.E. In the immediate vicinity of the Dusun house 
 the formation consists of a ferruginous sandstone, 
 overlain by about fourteen feet of clayey soil. "\Yo 
 made our way to the top of the highest hill in the 
 district — a bill from whence edible swallow-nests were 
 2 The Company's Commissioner of Agriculture.
 
 240 N'orth Borneo. 
 
 reported — and walking for about an hour tlirough 
 jungle and over sandstone, we at length arrived on the 
 top, 1300 feet. Our blasting operations revealed a 
 condition of things precisely similar to Madanao, the 
 foot of the hill being composed of limestone, the 
 sandstone appearing only on the higher parts towards 
 the summit. 
 
 Having no encouragement to continue investiga- 
 tions in the Marudu, I determined to return to Kino- 
 ram, and from there make a trip to Sayup, in order 
 to see the Tampassuk, and get a view of the posi- 
 tions of the mountains Tumboyonkon and Nonohan- 
 t-agaiohj with regard to Kina Balu. 
 
 8e])i. l4tJi. — We got away to-day, and going via 
 Ranao and Timbang Batu, arrived in Kinoram on the 
 16th, with two buffaloes bringing rice enough to last 
 us our journey. We are obliged to take rice with us, 
 as there is none to be had in any of the districts we are 
 going to. Having had one day's rest in Kinoram, we 
 were all ready on the evening of the 17th. 
 
 We left Kinoram at nine the next morning, and 
 travelling on without incident passed through Kias, 
 where Mr. Beveridge is still hard at work, and shortly 
 arrived at our old camping-ground in the pouring 
 rain. From here we branched away to the right, and 
 ascending a high hill arrived at Nonak : 3 houses ; 
 headman, Kambigging. The place is situated on a 
 high hill, from where one can get a fine view of Tum- 
 boyonkon and Nonohan, which I begin to think are 
 only the termination of Nabalu.
 
 Four Months in Kinorani and the JMarudii. 241 
 
 From Nonak we took a W.S.W. direction, and 
 shortly afterwards arrived at the road to Kion, which 
 we followed, leaving the Paudassan ^ and Tampassuk 
 path to the W. Our course now varied from S.W. to 
 W.S.W., and we were told that we should p^rrive at Kion 
 to-night ; this pleased us very much, although we could 
 hardly believe it. Crossed the stream Sorab, and then 
 struck the river Rumalow, a tributary of the Tam- 
 passuk, which I at first mistook for that river. The 
 Rumalow evidently rises not far from the Kinoram in 
 Nonohan-t-agaioh, and many of the boulders consist of 
 aqueous rock. At 11, being at fault for a road, we 
 had to wait for our buffaloes with the guide. They, 
 however, soon came up, and we got away again. The 
 latter part of our way was through tall, cutting grass 
 — twelve to fourteen feet high — and it was very difficult 
 to make any way at all. One's hands got cut, and 
 owing to the rain the track was extremely slippery, 
 and we slid and tore ourselves very much during our 
 very tedious progress. 
 
 Towards evening arrived at Kion Gendohod quite wet 
 through, as we had been rained on steadily for the last 
 two hours. We were much disappointed on finding 
 that this Kion was not the one near Kina Balu ; the 
 true Kion is called Kion Fhome. Nonak to Kion about 
 thirteen miles, general direction S.W. 
 
 Having left Gendokod we crossed the Tampassuk 
 
 3 Captain jNIurnly's narrative of tlie operations of H.M.S. Iris against 
 the pirate retreats in the waters uf tliis district is among the most 
 intci'esting of Rajali Bivuke's Jutirnal (John ]\Iurray, 1848), and con- 
 tains a .stirring account of the defeat of the native pirates, and the 
 burning of the picturesque " nests of the sea-robbers " at Tampassuk 
 and raiidassan. 
 
 R
 
 242 North Borneo. 
 
 River, wliicli was very rapid and came up to our waists. 
 It was witli mucli difficulty that some of the men got 
 across with their loads. Passing Nahaba (ten houses) 
 we crossed the Tampassuk twice more, the second 
 ford being a very dangerous one. I had a long pole 
 cut, and taking it in both hands helped myself across 
 with it. It was, however, with great difficulty that I 
 managed to steady myself in the rushing water, which 
 seemed to want to tear one off one's legs every minute. 
 The rice on the largest buffalo all got wet, which was 
 our greatest misfortune. Just as we arrived at 
 Trentidan, down came the rain in torrents, and 
 further progress to Sayup was stopped for the day. 
 Trentidan : houses, 4 ; men, 20 ; women, 24. I was 
 told there was no more fording until we arrived at 
 Sayup. 
 
 The people here are wretchedly poor, rice is scarce, 
 owing to blight, and the staple food is Kaladi (sweet po- 
 tato) . When we opened our sacks of rice, and spread the 
 grain out to dry, the Dusuns watched us with anxious, 
 eager faces, and gave many hints that they would like 
 some. Our trading goods were of no use to us, and, 
 indeed, failed to procure for us so much as a jjotato, 
 while fowls were at a premium. Madalon 27°. 
 
 ^ej)t. 21.s'f. — At an early hour we left Trentidan, 
 and for a short time followed a S. direction, which was 
 our true course. Our arrangements have changed since 
 last night, as it was our purpose to go to Kion vici 
 Sayup, thus getting a good opportunity of examining 
 the Upper Tampassuk ; but a man at Trentidan in- 
 formed us that there was a better and an easier route 
 to Kion, via, Bongaland Tumbotukan. At an early 
 hour, then, we left Trentidan with this man as guide,
 
 Four Months in Kinoram and the Mariidu. 243 
 
 and travelled for a short distance in a S. direction. 
 This was the true road to Sayup and Kion, and I think 
 that it was part of the plot to take us in the right 
 direction at first, so as to lull any suspicions. "We toiled 
 up a ridge some 2000 feet high, and shortly afterwards 
 climbed some hundreds of feet higher. We could now 
 see Abai Plain, the Montenani Islands, and far out to 
 sea. Our direction of travel was due W., and I knew 
 something was wrong, as we were proceeding straight 
 for Abai. Nothing came of questioning or threaten- 
 ing the guide, and as we were now quite in his hands, 
 there was nothing to do but go on, which we did, 
 and soon arrived at the village of Sokia — 1 house; 
 12 families ; headman, none. 
 
 Our course now bent round to the S.W., and after 
 crossing a small stream called the Khorinsad, a tribu- 
 tary of the Jinamboure, we followed a S.S. W. direction. 
 This was our true course, and our spirits rose con- 
 siderably. The Khoribson was passed at midday. This 
 stream is a tributary of the Nolohau, which probably 
 belongs to the Kadamian system. From midday 
 until evening we were lost in the jungle, and our 
 struggles up immense precipices and over gigantic 
 boulders were hardships enough for one trip. The 
 guide having brought us to the summit of a high and 
 densely wooded hill, put his bundle down on the 
 ground, and went down the other side of the steep at 
 a great pace, saying he was going to find the way. 
 Fancying he had been misleading us, and now in- 
 tended to desert us, I followed him, and brought him 
 back by drawing my revolver. Seeing we were 
 all in earnest, and being not a little frightened him- 
 self, he took us down a stream in a westerly direc- 
 
 u 2
 
 244 N^orth Borneo. 
 
 tion, and eventually we got clear of tlie maze of 
 jungle towards evening, and finding a footpath we 
 shortly afterwards arrived at a hill kampong, called 
 Podiiss. This place had never before been visited by 
 a white man. There were no less than thirty houses 
 scattered through the hills, while the men numbered 
 100, and the women 125. Headman, Bonkar, I am 
 now quite sure that the Trentidan people, at the in- 
 stigation of the Sayup Dusuns, took us the wrong way 
 on purpose, as for some reason or other the Sayup 
 people object to white men coming to their country. 
 Trentidan to Poduss about twelve miles. 
 
 Sept. 22ncl. — It poured in torrents as we left 
 Poduss this morning, and we had had some difficulty 
 in getting a guide, as the Trentidan man had pre- 
 judiced the people against us. At length, by giving 
 very high wages, and paying before starting, we secured 
 the services of one man. Our road lay up hill and 
 down dale, the villages about here being invariably 
 situated on the tops of hills. Passing through Sizid 
 (eight houses), Nabalu was bearing S.S.E. From time 
 to time we obtained splendid views of Nabalu, and as it 
 rains every day with us, we had grand spectacles of the 
 water tearing down the precipitous sides of the moun- 
 tain. Just after noon we arrived on the banks of the 
 Panataran River, which is a tributary of the Kadamian. 
 Here all further progress was effectually stopped; 
 as, owing to the frequent rains, the river was very much 
 flooded, and to attempt a crossing must certainly have 
 proved fatal. We were obliged therefore to camp 
 where we were, and finding a deserted paddy-hut with 
 no roof, we rigged up our waterproof sheets and made 
 ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would per-
 
 Four Months in Kinoram and the Marudu. 245 
 
 mit. It turned out afterwards that it would have been 
 better had we slept on the stones near the river, as 
 the hut was infested with ticks. From the spot on 
 the river where we stopped, a high hill called Tohun, 
 to the west of Nabalu, was bearing 167°, while the 
 highest point of Nabalu itself gave 140°. Nabalu has 
 almost the appearance of two mountains, the western 
 end a short high ridge, separated by a terrific ravine 
 from the eastern end, which itself trends gently away 
 in peak after peak, each peak, as one goes east, getting 
 smaller and smaller, until the spur of the mountain 
 becomes a low ridge which again leads up and ascends 
 to Nonohan-t-agaioh, and the terminal cone Tumbo- 
 yonkon. 
 
 At the spot on the river where we camped there 
 entered the Panataran, a small tributary from the east 
 called the Peramad, about fifteen yards wide, and rising 
 in Nabalu, or its neighbourhood, as evinced by the 
 quantities of porphyritic granite boulders in the bed of 
 the stream.- However, even where we were the granite 
 was already in situ; of other boulders, the most 
 numerous a dark, somewhat coarse-grained syenite, 
 ferruginous sandstone and limestone. 
 
 Poduro to the Panataran, about seven miles; D. S.W. 
 We passed a most wretched night in the hut, as it 
 came on to rain at eight, and never ceased until two in 
 the morning, by which time we were quite wet through, 
 as our water-proof sheets were the worse for wear, and 
 in fact almost useless ; added to this, a strong wind 
 blew the rain right in upon us, and wet us most 
 thoroughly. By morning we could wring the water out 
 of our rugs, and, indeed, we were in a very wretched 
 condition. Short of food, bad weather, a continued
 
 246 North Borneo. 
 
 run of ill-luck, and no rice to be had, our own supply 
 running low, with flooded rivers to cross, we deter- 
 mined to return to Kinoram on the morrow. 
 
 Leaving Panataran, we passed through the villages 
 of Sisid and Bongal, from which latter place we 
 travelled due east. Our route was quite new from 
 Sisid and much shorter. Without incident we arrived 
 at Nahaba in the evening. Panataran to Nahaba 
 about sixteen miles. 
 
 ^ej)i. 24th. — From Nahaba to Upper Kias via Kion 
 Gendokod. The men never turned up at the Dusun 
 house, where we arrived at night, so we had to sleep in 
 our wet things and go supperless to bed on the floor. 
 
 Before daylight the next morning Mr. Von Donop 
 and myself got away down to Kias Eiver, to see what 
 Mr. Beveridge could do for us in the way of food. 
 Shortly after we had satisfied our appetites, our men 
 arrived ; some of them appeared quite exhausted with 
 the journey. 
 
 In my next report I will enclose a plan of Kias with 
 the works that have been made there. Exhaustive 
 searching in the Kias River, both in the ancient and 
 modern beds, has not given even the smallest trace, 
 although the specimen of copper obtained by the 
 Dusun does not appear to have travelled any distance. 
 The next thiug to do is to examine all the hills in the 
 neighbourhood of the Kinoram, and Mr. Beveridge 
 starts on a preliminary trip in a few days. 
 
 VI. 
 
 Sei^t. 29th. — Search for edible nests. — Having had 
 three days' rest, I felt ready to-day to accompany the
 
 Four MoJtths in Kmoram and the Marudu. 247 
 
 cliief of Pamaitan, called Boiikal, to Pinowanter, wliere 
 lie stated there was a cave containing quantities of 
 edible swallows'-nests. I put some faith in what he 
 said, as he is a chief of considerable standing, and 
 not inclined, like many Dusuns, to tell stories for the 
 sake of talking. 
 
 Leaving Kinoram, therefore, in company with 
 Bonkal, our direction was E.S.J]., and our road lay 
 through young jungle at first. This, however, being 
 passed, we walked through a stretch of primeval forest, 
 and shortly afterwards we came to the banks of the 
 Tinandokan, flowing E.N.E.,- and said to rise in a 
 hill called Dogohoh to the east of Tumboyonkon. 
 This stream and the Telidusan, w^iich we passed 
 shortly afterwards, are both tributaries of the 
 Pamaitan, which itself runs into the Kinoram 
 somewhere near Timbang Batu. The table-land to 
 the east of the mineral exploring station, Kinoram, is 
 for some little distance from the river composed of 
 the old river-bed conglomerate. The Kinoram must 
 at one time have been a much more considerable river 
 than it is at present. Kinoram to Pamaitan about five 
 miles; D. E.S.E. 
 
 . With the dawn on the last day of the month wo 
 started for Moroli, taking a S.W. direction ; crossed 
 the Pamaitan several times, and passed through the 
 villages of Melanku^^ (six houses) and Lank-lank-en- 
 Sayup (three houses). Our course changed to S.S.W., 
 and our road lay through primeval forest, which is 
 said to be well stocked with gutta and camphor. 
 Arrived on the banks of the Tendahouran stream, a 
 tributary of the Pamaita. After a tremendous pull up a 
 very steep hill, we arrived at Moroli In the cale. AVhen
 
 248 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 coming from the Labuk, I stayed at tlie houses on the 
 hill- top. Pamaitan to Moroli twelve miles. 
 
 Od. \8t, — Got away to Pino wan ter to-day, taking 
 the old man from Moroli to assist in the bichara with 
 the Pinowanter people. 
 
 Leaving Moroli in an E. to E.S.E. direction [Moroli : 
 old man, Sidik ; men, 100 ; women, 120 ; houses, 15 ; 
 but dispersed among the hills], we followed down 
 the Alowakie, which is a tributary of the Kaponakan ; 
 it received a small tributary called the Solokan- 
 momanon. Leaving the Alowakie, we passed through 
 Tiput (two houses), and shortly afterwards struck 
 the Kaponakan, which river we followed for some 
 considerable distance. Our course was now S.S.E. 
 with the river, but on leaving the Kaponakan we 
 followed a S. course. Climbing some small hills, and 
 crossing the streamlet Tionkon, we arrived on the 
 banks of the Kondironkan River, running E.N.E. to 
 the Kaponakan, close to Pinowanter, and up near the 
 head -of which the edible nest cave is said to be. 
 
 Pinowanter consists of 5 houses ; old man, Sak- 
 hong; men, 30; women, 35. Two high hills about 
 two miles away; one Barrambangan hill gave the fol- 
 lowing bearings from Pinowanter: western end, 263°; 
 eastern end, 230°. The other hill, separated from 
 Barrambangan by a deep ravine, was called Molong- 
 Kolong, and is about 4500 feet high. It gave bear- 
 ings : — highest point, 286°. 
 
 After some trouble with the Pinowanter people, who 
 much objected to show us the cave, and any amount of 
 bichara between the chiefs, we at length got a guide 
 and left Pinowanter in a W. direction. We passed a 
 small saline spring, through the water of which small
 
 Fotir Months in Kinoram and the Marudii. 249 
 
 bubbles of gas were rising. The temperature of the 
 salt spring also was higher than that of the neighbour- 
 ing streams. Arrived on the banks of the Kondorikan, 
 the river noted yesterday ; our course now lay right in 
 the bed of the stream. After immense difficulty in 
 getting up, and climbing up over large boulders and up 
 steep banks, we at length arrived at a place where the 
 Dusuns pointed out a hole in the rock to us. We had 
 brought no candle, and, in fact, had no means of 
 obtaining a light ; this was a mistake, but it would not 
 prevent us exploring the cave. The hole was on a 
 level with a deep pool, and there was evidently water 
 inside, of wdiat depth one could not say. The pool 
 had to be crossed first, which was quickly managed by 
 swimming across. The Dusun chief from Pamaitan, 
 myself, and a Malay entered the cave, which, luckily for 
 us, only had about a foot of water on the floor. It was 
 very low, so that we could feel all over the roof with 
 our hands. Every inch of the place was examined, 
 and not a shadow of a nest could be found, nor was the 
 rank smell which always pervades guano-caves present. 
 Thoroughly disgusted with the Pinowanter Dusuns, 
 whom we suspect of having taken us to the wrong place, 
 we retraced our steps, and so angered was Bonkal that 
 he drew his parang on the Pinowanter men, and there 
 would have been a fight but for the old man of Moroh, 
 who acted as peacemaker. 
 
 "We arrived back in Kinoram on the 4th of October, 
 and Mr. Beveridge was down from the hills with a 
 small box of specimens. One of these was a piece of 
 quartz, containing what struck me at first sight to be 
 copper pyrites. On obtaining a little of the substance 
 free from gangue, and boihng in nitric acid, it all dis-
 
 250 North Boj^neo. 
 
 solved except tlie sulphur ; on the addition of ammonia 
 a quantity of ferric-hydrate was thrown down, the 
 liquid above the precipitate assuming a strong blue 
 colour i and therefore showing the presence of copper 
 in considerable quantities. I told Mr. Beveridge of my 
 discovery, and said he had better go back at once to the 
 spot where that sjDecimen had been found. I would 
 come up after him. 
 
 VII. 
 
 Oct. 7th. — Trip to TumhoyonJcon. — Left Kinoram, 
 and, passing IMuruns, mounted a hill some 1500 feet 
 high, being a fort hill of Tumboyonkon. We slept 
 in a paddy hut on the top. The ravine where the 
 copper pyrites has been found is on the other side of 
 the ridofe on whose side we now are. There is no 
 Dusun name to the place where Mr. Beveridge is, so 
 I will call it Ravine Palupalu, which in Dusun means 
 little torrent. 
 
 From our hut on the hill the next day we took a 
 direction by the compass S.S.W.,and, cutting our way 
 through the thick jungle, we toiled up the saddle of a 
 ridge trending north from Tumboyonkon. Arrived 
 on the top, we stood at a height of about 3000 feet, and 
 at once commenced our descent down the almost pre- 
 cipitous face of a cliff into the ravine Palupalu. But 
 for the trees, travel in such a country would be im- 
 possible, as the slopes are so extremely steep. The 
 danger of falling stones from above was very great ; one 
 of my men had his foot badly bruised by a big piece of 
 rock ; he, however, managed to drag himself into camp, 
 although he did not walk for a week afterwards. 
 Before noon we arrived at Mr. Beveridge's camp, the 
 
 X
 
 FotLV Months in Khiorain and the Mai'tidu. 251 
 
 distance from Kinoram being about nine miles. Every 
 one was away at work, and as we descended we had 
 heard shots fired several times. Mr. Beveridge was at 
 work down stream, so I went down about three- 
 quarters of a mile to him, at a spot where an immense 
 landshp of thousands of tons of rock bad fallen into 
 the torrent. The road was of the worst description. I 
 can only say that in places where we were coming down 
 waterfalls, our lives hung, not exactly " on a thread," 
 but on a twig the size of one's finger, or on the hold of 
 a root or a tuft of grass. Had any of these frail 
 supports given way, not only broken heads but broken 
 necks would certainly have been the result. The rock 
 consists of a green limestone matrix, veined through 
 and through with calc-spar, and containing much 
 iron pyrites, which latter, on testing, gives a slight 
 copijer reaction. This is quite distinct from the quartz 
 containing copper pyrites, of which only one small 
 specimen has up to the present been found. We can 
 therefore report considerable quantities of limestone 
 containing iron pyrites and a very small percentage of 
 copper. 
 
 [Assays for gold and silver have not yet been made.] 
 The jungle about here is quite destitute of any of the 
 essentials for making the usual jungle huts. Bamboo, 
 any kind of large leaves, bark of trees, all are absent; 
 the only things to be got are rattans and vegetable 
 resin or dammar. Even the timber is small, moss- 
 covered, and of little use. 
 
 Oct. 9th. — I have had a very bad leg for some days 
 past, which is getting worse every day, which I am 
 afraid Avill obliofe me to ofo down to Kudat. I had to 
 send toBougon and Kinoram to fetch rice to-day, and to
 
 252 North Borneo. 
 
 Muruns to get fowls. Up stream to day, Mr. Beveridge 
 obtained a piece of quartz containing iron pyrites and 
 copper in small quantities, and also some quartz which 
 evidently comes from a vein running through serpentine. 
 In the afternoon specimens of quartz containing iron 
 pyrites with traces of copper sulphide were brought 
 from the next ravine. 
 
 In our ravine the sun climbs over our ridge at 
 about 9 a.m., and sets behind the other ridge at 3.30 
 p.m. Even in the middle of the day it is cold, and the 
 men were always huddled up in their blankets. The 
 thick foliage prevents any warmth getting down to us, 
 while the torrent, from whose banks we are only a few 
 yards distant, creates a cool breeze. The roar of this 
 stream reminds one of two or three locomotives at very 
 high pressure blowing off steam, and any conversation 
 has to be carried on in very loud tones. To-night it 
 rained in torrents, and everything got very wet, as my 
 waterproof sheets are useless, and we have no big 
 leaves. As night drew on the pitchy darkness reminded 
 one of a coal-mine heading. 
 
 Oct. 10th. — Men returned from Muruns with a very 
 little rice ; nothing else to be had. The Muruns people 
 threaten to fell trees across the path between this and 
 Kiuoram, making their excuse the sickness at Bongon ; 
 but if they do so, it will be out of mere spite. Blastjng 
 towards the top of Tumboyonkon revealed limestone 
 cropping out there. Mr. Beveridge had an attack of 
 fever, and my leg is now so bad that I cannot walk. 
 
 Oct. 12th. — How I got back to Kinoram I can hardly 
 tell, but I know that I was in great pain all the way. 
 A buffalo took me to Bongon on the 13th, and on the 
 15th I arrived at Kudat quite done up.
 
 Four Months in Kinoram and tJie AlarudiL. 
 
 253 
 
 The elevations which appear in this report are only 
 approximations, but I am now in a position to de- 
 termine the various altitudes bv observation, and in 
 my second Kinoram report I shall give the observed 
 
 heights. 
 
 \ II 
 
 
 '^^^?^^Pf^:^^;^-%*V. 
 
 THE nOUSE AT PAMPANG, MARTJDF RIVER. "• 
 
 From a Sketcli by Frank Halton. (See page 235.) 
 
 * This is taken from a sketch-book that came home in Frank's 
 boxes. It contained several other water-colour drawings, but the 
 Pampang house was the only finished one. The mountain of Tum- 
 boyonkon had evidently a great charm for him. His sketch-book 
 contains the commencement of a careful drawing of it from the river, 
 and the lieginning of a close study of the highest elevations of Kina- 
 Lalu, with a suggestion of sunset in the sky.
 
 2 54 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 V. 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM. DIARY OF THE LAST 
 EXPEDITION/ 
 
 Difficult operations — An ancient clearing — The fable of the Kinaba- 
 tangan Cave — Dangers present and to come — Fever and leeches 
 — The future coal-fields of Borneo — Durian — Fighting tho 
 torrent — Outcrops of coal — Lost — Expecting to prospect for gold 
 — Eelics of a murder believed to have been committed by the 
 natives who kiUed Witti — Among the Muruts — A misunder- 
 standing that nearly led to a fight — An offer to go out against 
 Witti's murderers — Shooting rapids — Swamped — "Rain, rain, 
 nothing but rain " — Harrow escapes — Dismal wastes — From the 
 river to the sea — Thimder and rain — The last entry in the last 
 diary — "River swift and deep." 
 
 Jan. &th. — Left Sandakan at 6 a.m. in the steam- 
 launch. Sabine, and arrived at the Murujan mouth of 
 the Kinabatangan at 9. Fine entrance: cazurina- 
 trees at mouth, afterwards mangroves. Anchored not 
 far from mouth, and went on up stream at 11.30. 
 Evidences of freshet as one proceeds. 12.5, main 
 stream on the left ; still enormous maugrove-swamps. 
 We slowly passed on at 1, forest and rattans now 
 replacing the nipa and mangroves. Current heavy, 
 
 1 It has been thought well in the interest of the reader to condense 
 these extracts, seeing that many pages of the diary are simply notes 
 of observations, important to the geographer and to the Government 
 of Sabah, Ijut not of general interest.
 
 Extracts from Diajy of tJie last Expedition. 
 
 -00 
 
 soundings varying from four fathoms to six and seven. 
 
 At 6.30 arrived at Malapi. 
 
 Sunday, Jan. 7th. — Tenegang one day up in a praliu. 
 
 Bought a gobang for $26 : rather a swindle. Stayed 
 
 at Mahipi, making all ready. The agent at Malapi is 
 
 a Banjermassing man, and, like all natives, a fraud. 
 
 Ward stayed here three days. Country all densely 
 
 jungled and very flat ; while all clearings are quickly 
 
 Hidden by thick, tangled grass. Could not sleep for 
 
 mosquitoes and sandflies. Sulu main ^ going on here ; 
 
 the people speak a mixture of Sulu and Paitan. 
 * * * * * 
 
 Jan. 8th. — At Tenegang was an elephant's tooth for 
 holding the fishing-nets down. People half-Dusun, 
 half-Sulu, like Orang Rungus in the Labuk. At 
 12 waited for sixty minutes at an ancient clearing, 
 where the remains of two houses, long since deserted, 
 were found. A small clearing in the immense jungle, 
 and three wooden spears (tanda) protecting the pro- 
 perty of the people is all that remains of old Tenegang. 
 ... At 2.45, turning round to the S. to 160°, i.e. 
 near S.S.E, and eventually at 2.50 to S.E. 130°. At 
 3.15, 160° S., 10° E. At 3.20, S. At 3.35, 170° S., 10° E. 
 At 3.40, 160°, about S.S.E. At 4 due S., 180°. . . . 
 The river being flooded, and the country also for a great 
 distance inland, we could not get ashore. This at any 
 time would be diflicult on account of the vegetation. 
 At 5 stopped on a mudbank to cook ; immense difiiculty. 
 
 Jan. 9th. — After a dreadful night, and very little 
 sleep on account of sandflies, started away up the 
 flooded river at Sin W.S.W., D. 260°. . . . As we pro- 
 ceeded, came on an immense swamp, much overgrown 
 
 " Malay for '' a play."
 
 256 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 by trees of the nature of the mangroves. At 11.40 
 still on through dense swamp, D. 240° (W.S.W.); 
 11.45, 206° (S.S.W.). At 11.50 arrived at another im- 
 mense swamp, or inland lake, and turned back. A rise of 
 ten feet only between this and yesterday's camping- 
 place. Absolutely no place to land, although went up 
 
 the river twenty-one miles. , a yellow clay 
 
 covered with six or eight feet of black slime at the 
 inland lake or swamp. Temp. 30° 5', 12.30. It being 
 quite impossible to get on further, we turned back, and 
 got back in three hours and a half, making the distance 
 twenty miles. At the mouth stopped, and decided to 
 send Beveridge to Silam, while self go up Kina- 
 batangan to head. Got everything ready to-night. 
 D. to Silam, S.E. ; distance thirty miles; gave 
 Beveridge a compass. At 8 p.m. temp. 29°, bar. 
 30.1. To-day it rained at intervals all the time, and 
 there were several showers yesterday. 
 
 Jan. 10th. — Left our station at 8.15. Temp. 27°, 
 bar. 30.2. Beveridge left for overland. 
 
 At 8.35 got back into the Kinabatangan. At 9.35 
 took sample of siliceous sand of river-bed. ... At 
 12 made a halt, temp. 32° 5', and landed at Bilet, where 
 got a fowl, some sugar-cane, and a specimen of 
 meerschaum, which the man said he had got from 
 Sindyak, near Pinungah. Left again at 1.20 in a 
 S.W'. D. 230°. 
 
 Here heard of the Tingguluns, who some three or four 
 years ago were always coming down here. The man 
 was using the meerschaum for polishing his betel-nut 
 box, and often asked how much per catti. 1.50, 
 320° N.W., through 360° N. to 10° (N. 10° E.) ; a hill 
 ahead bearing N. 13° E. At 1.55, 30°, near N.E. ;
 
 Extracts from Diary of the last Expedition. 257 
 
 through N. 360°. 2.40 to 2.45, 2G0" (W.S.W.). 
 3.15, 300° near W.N.w. 3.20, 320° N.W. 
 
 At 3.30 made a halt, in order to let prahu get up. 
 Here we were informed that, to avoid fever, it was a 
 good thing to wash with the clay from the river. 
 
 Elevation from mouth Tenegang, 120 feet. Distance 
 to-daj, eleven miles. 
 
 Jan. IJf/i.— Left at 7.20, D. 320° N.W. 7.20, 
 temp. 39°, bar. 30.2. 7.35,230°. At 7.40,220°, i.e. 
 near S.W. At 8, 160°. 8.20, 210°. At 8.25, 190°. 
 8.30, 180° S. 
 
 The Buli Dupie's Story of the Kixabatangax Cave. 
 
 There was once a powerful Panjeran in the Kina- 
 batangan who had seven sons (about thirty generatious 
 ago). This chief was famous for his fighting powers 
 and for his bravery. One day he said to his eldest son, 
 " Go and conquer some islands near Sulu," where a 
 powerful chief, the enemy of the Kinabatangan people, 
 lived. Accordingly, therefore, the brothers started on 
 their expedition with seven large prahus. After a 
 severe fight they proved victorious, and with a large 
 booty they returned to their country. Night found 
 them pulling up against the strong current near 
 Malapi, and as darkness set in they were just opposite 
 a cave in the limestone cliff on the banks of the river. 
 " Let us," said the eldest brother, "sleep in that cave ; 
 it is easier, and we shall enjoy more comfort than 
 in the prahus." " Oh, go not there," said the youngest 
 brother ; " I fear, if you do, some harm will come to 
 us." " Do not be stupid," replied the elder, and his 
 voice ruled tlie others ; so tliey went into the large 
 
 s
 
 258 North Borneo. 
 
 cave by a big opening. Having slept the niglit, tlie 
 3^oungest brother got up with the morn, and rousing 
 his brothers, said, " Oh, brothers, let us go out. I fear 
 the cave is closing upon us ; see, oh ! see, the opening 
 is very small." And, indeed, this was the fact ; but 
 the eldest brother, who was sleepy, said, " You speak 
 that which is not," and his speech again ruled the rest. 
 In vain the youngest son reiterated his warning, and 
 when the hole was getting smaller and smaller, and 
 there was only just tiine for escape, he got out, leaving 
 his six brothers in the cave. The hole was still closing, 
 and as the youngest looked in again, he saw his 
 brothers each in the arms of a fairy-like damsel, who 
 led them away into the cave. The hole shut with a 
 bang on the brothers and their fairy ladies for ever, 
 and to this day ladders are kept hanging outside, and 
 rice is thrown in by the passing Sulumen to feed the 
 long-lost brethren. 
 
 I was informed at Bilet that Sin Dyaks are Dyaks 
 who wear trousers, while real Dyaks only wear the 
 waistcloth. ... It rained to-day several times. 
 One terrific shower and thunderstorm. We, in 
 fact, get very unsettled weather every day. Rain, 
 in showers, begins, as a rule, about eleven to 
 twelv^e o'clock, and continues at intervals until four 
 or five o'clock. One storm sent the temperature 
 down 2° C. 1.30, 200° W.N.W. 1.35, 320° (N.W., 
 near). The people say it is twenty days from here 
 to Pinungah. 1.55,310°; passed a house on the left 
 bank. At 2, 298°. 2.5, 260°, near W. 2.10, 190°, near S. 
 
 At 3.15 passed a high hill on left bank, with strata 
 inclined at a high angle. The rock was a limestone, 
 much veined with quartz. At 3.50 a heavy rainstorm
 
 Extracts from Diary of the last Expeditidht. 259 
 
 came on again, making the trip very miserable. At 
 4.0, 190° (near S.). 4.6, 300° (N.W.). 4.25, 240° S.W. 
 4.35, 130° (S.E.). Distance got through to-day, six- 
 teen miles. Stopped at 4.45 at Subak. Bar. 30.5. 
 Elevation above Bilet, 110 feet. At 4.40 passed on 
 right a small tributary on left bank, three fathoms 
 wide. I was told that we came from the same stock — 
 Adam : this by a wretched old Suluman. 
 
 Jan. 12^A.— Left Subak at 8.23. D. 130° S.B. 
 Bar. 30.1, ther. 29°. 8.40, 140° (S.E.). 8.55, 176°, near 
 S. All through primitive forests. At 9, 250°, near W. 
 
 I hear that if we go up the Quamut we shall meet 
 the Tinggulans and roving bands of Muruts. At 
 Malapi the people said fifteen days would bring us to 
 Pinungah. Here they say one month. Quamut is 
 ten days this side of Pinungah. It is two days to 
 Sebangan. . . . 11.35, passed a small tributary on 
 the left (right bank), about five fathoms wide ; rapid 
 current, much overgrown by primitive jungle, and 
 apparently uninhabited. 
 
 Met some people coming from the Lukun. They 
 said fonr days would bring us to Quamut. They 
 remembered Witti and his adventures in the Lukun. 
 . . . Stopped at four o'clock. Distance to-day, thirteen 
 miles. Height above Subak, 100 feet. All day through 
 immense forests, and I had a touch of fever. Our 
 camping-place on left bank, where a lot of driftwood 
 was thrown up. The place was an old clearing. The 
 sandflies are a terrible curse ; so is sitting in a 
 praliu all day. 
 
 Jan. 13//^.— Left our camp at 7.15. D. 260°, bar. 
 30.1, ther. 28°. . . . The only things we see now 
 are a stray pigeon and dozens of graceful cranes or 
 
 s 2
 
 26o * Noi'th Borneo. 
 
 storks, "whicli I can never bit, as tbey are such shy 
 birds. 
 
 320° at 1.53 (N.W.). At l.e57, 280° (W., near). 
 At 2, 280° (S.W.). At 2.8, t::00°. At 2.15, 190°. 
 At 3, 210°. At 3.15 a high hill, bearing 240°. We 
 are also travelling through immense jungle, which is 
 now billy. Met a prahu with some Javanese in it, 
 who said that in three months we might hope to get 
 to Pinungah. The speaker said also that Ward had 
 not got to Pinungah yet. I don't think he spoke the 
 truth. ... At 3.47, 350°. 3.55, 360° (N.). Halted 
 at 4.30., bar. 30. Distance got over, sixteen and a 
 quarter miles ; elevation, sixty feet. 
 
 Jan. Will. — Heavy rainstorm in the early morning 
 prevented our cooking, so we had to go on without 
 our breakfasts. Started at 6.15. . . . I had a terrible 
 attack of fever and ague, and made up my mind to go 
 back, which mind I changed as soon as the attack was 
 over. I shall never forget the horrible sensation of 
 shivering with cold beneath a burning sun. Temp. 33°. 
 
 Jan. ]5^/i.— Left our camp at 7.25. D. 30° N.E. 
 
 7.45, 330°; two miles an hour. If I have fever again 
 
 to-morrow, I mt go tack. . . . At 1.40 made a halt 
 
 to go on shore. At 2.15 started on again. ... At 
 
 4.50 stopped. Elevation got up, 100 feet; bar. 20.95. 
 
 Got over seventeen miles. 
 
 ***** 
 
 Maden, serlgo, gonong, miitu — the native way for 
 testing a kriss or their luck. {Ohor hrlss.) 
 
 [A blank is left for a note on the kriss test. . . . 
 He went on again from his camping-ground at 5.30 in 
 the comparative cool of the morning, while the mists 
 were on the river, which had risen in tlie night and
 
 Extracts from Diaiy of the last Expedition. 261 
 
 become a terrible torrent ; then follow a page or two 
 of observations; stopped at a deserted place for food, 
 thinks it is Sebangan, " which is now deserted on ac- 
 count of the alligators — the reputation of the place is 
 so bad that when bathing in the boat this morning I 
 had a man with a full-cocked gun on guard." Every- 
 where the country is flooded. On the previous day 
 there is this closing note — " take specimens strata 
 right bank to-morrow". . . . Elevation to-day only 
 about 60 feet. Distance got over to-day nineteen miles.] 
 
 Distances. 
 
 
 
 SllLES. 
 
 From 
 
 Malapi 
 
 to 
 
 Tenegang. 
 
 
 Jan 
 
 . 8th . 
 
 
 . 
 
 . 5 
 
 
 10th, 
 
 Tenegang up K.B. . 
 
 11 
 
 
 11th, 
 
 up 
 
 K.B. 
 
 10 
 
 
 12th 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 13th 
 
 
 
 16i 
 
 
 14th 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 15th 
 
 
 
 17 
 
 
 IGth 
 
 
 
 19 
 
 
 17th 
 
 
 
 19 
 1201 
 
 Strata now consists of clays containing intermediate 
 bands of sandstone, the whole dipping at an angle of 
 35° to the N.E. Also a ferruginous clay containing 
 
 bands of — • 
 
 » * « « * 
 
 Jan. 19th. — Got away at G. . . . At 8, bar. 30.5, 
 ther. 26°. At 8.5 passed a small tributar yon the 
 left about six fathoms wide. Our course at 8, 200° 
 S.W. To-day we passed what might be called our first 
 rapid {carangan)^ and the river became much more
 
 262 North Borneo. 
 
 winding tLan former!}^. . . . Banks now composed of 
 a conglomerate similar to the Kinoram, one that is 
 igneous and metamorphic rocks cemented by silica. 
 
 Tlie men complain very mucli of " Limantungs," a 
 kind of leech. ... At 1.80 saw houses floating down 
 stream. We have often heard of the Americans 
 rolling their houses, but these people fasten their 
 prahus together, make a raft, and then build theif 
 houses on the top. When sickness prevails, this is the 
 way the people forsake their countries. . . . Kina- 
 batang stones, specimens of the 17th. Sandstones, 
 ferruginous and fire clays. Also on the 18th. . . . 
 At 4.55 halted for the night ; bar. 29.9. Rained in 
 torrents just as we wanted to cook, and miserable 
 enough it was. 
 
 Jan. 20^/i.— Got away at 6.15, 280°. ... At 7.25 got 
 to our first carangan, D. 210° S.W,,-and one mile per 
 hour. At 7.50 passed a tributary on the left, ten 
 fathoms wide at mouth. Our course 260° (W.). . . . 
 Vast deposits of mud, formed of detritus, brought 
 down by the river, in which are imbedded canes, 
 sticks, and other vegetable matter in regular stratifi- 
 cations — the future coal-beds of Borneo. Misrht 
 account for sandstones, as at Siquati, containing 
 veins of a light coal. Where river bares itself, water 
 trickling from banks much impregnated with oxide of 
 iron. ... At 4.13 entered the Quamut, D. 300° 
 JST.W., and stopped at the police-station. Elevation 
 to-day, 100 feet. The place Quamut is a miserable 
 hole ; and as it rains in torrents every day, I can't see 
 how we can get to Silam. . . . 
 
 Jan. 21si — Quamut is a lonely police-station at the 
 junction of the Kinabatangan and Quamut rivers, but
 
 Extracts from Dicuy of the last Expedition. 26 
 
 o 
 
 in the latter. After the wikl scenes in Kinoram and 
 around Kina Balu, this country is flat and uninterest- 
 ing, and, from a mineral point of view promises, so 
 far, nothing. Rained very heavily all day. " Lamog " 
 stream below Lukan, straight for Segama. 
 
 Jan. 22nd. — Left Quamut at 6.50 ; got back to 
 Kinabatangan at 7, and continued our course up 
 stream, D. 28° (N.E.). Could get no prahus and no 
 guide at Quamut, so thought it best to go on to 
 Pinungah and try there. ... At 3.47 passed a large 
 tributary on the left (right bank), about twenty fathoms 
 wide, and, indeed, the same as the Quamut ; some 
 hills 1000 feet high in the distance. D. of our course 
 
 280°, 3.47 (W.). 
 
 ***** 
 
 Jan. 24:th. — The river flooded; fearful state of 
 things ; nothing but rain, rain, rain ; cannot get on. 
 Bar. 29.5, ther. 26°. Left at 6.20. D. 240" W. . . . 
 The force of the current is terrific ; the river being 
 flooded, we can only make about a mile and a half per 
 hour all day. At 4 stopped for the night, as the 
 force of the stream had tired the men out. 
 
 Slept in a dead man's house. Ghosts and ginger — 
 the Malay superstition. [This is evidently a memo- 
 randum of material for future use.] 
 
 Jan. 2bth.—Leh dead man's house at 6.20. D. 290° 
 (W.). Bar. 30°, ther. 27° 5'. Elevation got once 
 yesterday, fifty feet. No rain this morning, but the 
 river frightfully flooded. ... At 1.30, 250° (W.). 
 From 1 to 2 looking for Durian only. Rain in 
 torrents. Durian yellow-skinned and red pulp.^ . . . 
 
 3 The durian grows on a large and lofty forest tree, somewhat 
 resembling an elm in its general character, Ijut willi a more smooth
 
 264 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 Had some capital pigeon-sbooting to-day — a bag of 
 
 twelve. . . . Sighted high ranges of hills. . . . 
 
 Elevation 100 feet to-day. 
 
 ***** 
 
 Jan. 27 tli. — Got away at 5.50, D. AY. ; one mile per 
 hour, and for hours dragging the prahu up rapids and 
 carangans. At 7.15, 160° (S.). At 6.30 passed an 
 island. At 7.25, another island. . . . Stopped at 
 9.25; got away again at 10.25. . . . The people 
 here are in the most pitiable condition of filth of 
 all Dusuns that 1 have yet come across. I have never 
 seen any so filthy, so miserable, and so abject as 
 
 and scaly bark. The fruit is round or slightly oval, about the size of 
 a large cocoanut, of a green colour, and covered all over with short 
 stout spines, the bases of which touch each other, and are consequently 
 somewhat hexagonal, while the points are very strong and sharp. It 
 is so completely armed, that if the stalk is broken off it is a difficult 
 matter to lift one from the ground. The outer rind is so thin and 
 tough, that from whatever height it may fall it is never broken. From 
 the base to the apex five very faint lines may be traced, over which 
 the spines arch a little ; these are the sutures of the carpels, and show 
 where the fruit may be divided with a heavy knife and a strong hand. 
 The five cells are satiny-white within, and are each filled with an 
 oval mass of cream-coloured pulp, embedded in which are tAvo or three 
 seeds about the size of chestnuts. This pulp is the eatable part, and 
 its consistence and flavour are indescribable. A rich butter-like cus- 
 tard highly flavoured Avith almonds gives the best general idea of it, 
 but intermingled Avith it come w^afts of flavour that call to mind 
 cream-cheese, onion-sauce, broAA^n sheny, and other incongruities. 
 Then tliere is a rich glutinous smoothness in the pulp Avhich nothing 
 else possesses, but Avhich adds to its delicacy. It is neither acid, nor 
 sweet, nor juicy, yet one feels the Avant of none of these qualities, for 
 it is perfect as it is. It produces no nausea or other bad effect, and 
 the more you eat of it the less you feel inclined to stop. In fact, to 
 eat durians is a new sensation, Avorth a voyage to the East to ex- 
 perience." — AVallace's Malay Arckij/elago.
 
 Extracts from Diary of the last Expedition. 265 
 
 tliose above Qiiamut. Cliurlisli and suspicious, envious, 
 timid, and inhospitable. 
 
 The banks are composed of the red, recent river- 
 gravels, containing" pebbles of quartz, ferruginous sand- 
 stone, &c. All alono- here tried for minerals — no trace. 
 ... At 3.30 just escaped a fearful rapid, a place where T 
 set mj teeth and held my breath as we dashed into the 
 terrific current. .. . Stopped at 4.20. Elevation' 100 ft. 
 
 Jan. 28f/^.— Left our station at 6.25, D. 240° (S.W.). 
 Terrific rush of water, as a fresh flood had come down 
 during the night. Bar. 29.1, ther. 28°. At 7.15, 
 330° (X.W.). Very hard work to-day. ... We go 
 now only about half a mile per hour. At 9.15 stopped 
 to cook. At 10.50 got away agaiu. D. 300° (N.W.). 
 
 At 12.20, having made half a mile by fearful exertions, 
 
 230° (S.W.). The current is so swift that paddhngis 
 
 impossible, poling equally so, and the banks are so 
 
 steep and wooded that dragging by a rope is not to be 
 
 thought of. The only way to advance is for a man 
 
 to push on ahead a little way by clingiug to trees and 
 
 half-swimming, get a foothold on a tree-branch or on 
 
 the bank. A rope from, the prahu is then thrown to 
 
 him, and we drag ourselves up a few jrards. The 
 
 current, I should think, is at least twelve miles per 
 
 hour in the middle of the river. . . . Engaged a man 
 
 named Jabit, who is from Pinungah. 
 
 ***** 
 
 Jan. 30/A.— Got away at 5.45. D. 300° (X.AV.). 
 Bar. 29.85, ther. 29°. 
 
 At 6.30, D. 220" (S.W.). At 6.40, 260° (W.). 
 
 The natives all say that the Kinabatangan rises in 
 Kina Balu ; but no rolled pebbles of porphyritic granite, 
 asintheLubuk. At6.45, D. 250° (N.AV.). . . . At 8.40
 
 266 North Borneo. 
 
 stopped to cook. At 10.10 got away again from tlie 
 Dusun (Tambanor) house, where two coffins were set 
 out. In these the dead remain for one or two years 
 sealed up. D. N. 10° E. At 10.15, 300° (KW.). Rate, 
 one mile per hour. . . . Many landslips of ferruginous 
 sandstone, which weathers black ; vertical strata. 
 At 4.15, 130° (S.). At 420, 240°, and stopped and 
 slept. • On a carangan for the first time on the Kinaba- 
 tangan. Pebbles of ferruginous sandstone and quartz. 
 
 Jan. 31s^. — Got away on our last day's journey at 
 7.20, D. 200° (S.W.). Pace, one mile per hour, and 
 opened a fresh bag of rice. ... At 1.40 arrived at 
 Pinungah. Jabit twenty-three days. Spent curious 
 night at Pinungah with Ward, who is staying here. 
 Elevation to-day, 110 feet. 
 
 ¥eb. \8t. — Rain in torrents. From Tungara. Below 
 Lukan, Lamag, Lamad. . . . Longbilang on the Sega- 
 
 mn, there is gold.^ On the Segama. Namut 
 
 Bolud from the mouth seven days. [There are three 
 blanks in this entry of Feb. 1st, as if the names of 
 places, &c., were only set down for private guidance.] 
 
 tP 7l» ^ *!? 
 
 * Mr. Crocker, the Company's manager in London, writes : — " On 
 comparing Frank's diary with the map which shows the route of Mr. 
 Walker, who has since discovered gold in the Segama, I find that 
 Frank tried to cross into the Segama higher up than the point on 
 "Walker's map. Consequently the tributary Longbilang mentioned by 
 Frank as containing gold is above the Sanguie Belang tributary where 
 Mr. Walker has found it. There is every reason to believe that gold 
 will be found higher up, and it is sad to think that had it not been 
 for the swamp (see pages 277, 278) Frank would have got across 
 country and made the discovery early in 1883, in the district noted in 
 his diary-note of Feb. 1st." The diary has, however, been valuable 
 as a guide to the succeeding pioneers ; and, being forewarned by its 
 useful pages, Mr. Walker (a clever young officer) was of course wise 
 enough to avoid the swamp which Frank and his expeditionary corps 
 of natives made heroic efforts to cross.
 
 Extracts from Diary of the last Expedition. 267 
 
 Feb. 2nd. — At 7.20 started up the Pinimgah Hiver. 
 D. S. 180°. . . . The liead of the Segama not far from 
 the coast. At 8.37, 260° (W.). At 8.40, 280° (N.W.). 
 At 8.45, 160° (S.E.). Hewitt coal. Ferrugmous sand- 
 stone. At 12.5, 110° (S.E.). At 12.8, 250° (S.W.). 
 
 Vertical strata; on the river ferruginous sandstone. 
 ***** 
 
 Fch. 3jtZ.— At 7.30 got away and left Ward. At 
 7.30, 200° (S.W.). . . . At9.0,160°(S.E.). At 9.30 
 found coal-boulders in the stream, and stopped for 
 lunch ; also piece in situ sandstone. Curious metallic 
 slime — 2 Fe. On the right bank (left bank) coal 
 cropping up in small seams, one-half to one foot wide, 
 landslip sandstone. On the left bank (right bank), 
 about 300 yards below the outcrop on the opposite 
 bank, coal also. Outcrop only in isolated pockets in 
 fire-clay. Outcrop N. and S., almost. Mandore having 
 forgotten the picks, had to send prahu out to get 
 them, as well as rice. 
 
 Enormous deposits of feoric hydrate in the water, 
 indicating large quantities of iron below. Means at 
 disposal not sufficient to enable me to bore, and surface 
 outcrops are all I can go by. 
 
 220° and 40°, N.B. and S.W., line of dip of strata on 
 right bank. Angle of dip 42° (N.E. and S.W.). 
 
 On right bank (left bank). Direction of dip, 260° 
 and 80° (i.e. W.S.W. and E.N.E.). 
 
 Numerous tracks of wild cattle, deer, and pigs, the 
 sounds of jungle fowl, and the feathers of Argus 
 pheasants were frequent. 
 
 Bar. 29.8. Elevation to-day about ninety-five feet. 
 
 At 1.15 left our hut, and travelling along line of 
 (lip of strata 260° (W.S.W.) to find an outcrop of 
 coal. All the way through dense forests, with tracks
 
 268 
 
 No7'th Bo7'nco. 
 
 of red deer, wild cattle, and pigs. We struck away 
 on the line of strike of the strata at one mile per 
 hour. 
 
 <Sct,Tvclst on. B 
 
 J) '^O^ 
 
 At 1.45 crossed a small stream running N.E. to 
 the Pinungah ; our course W.S.W. In the stream 
 boulders of sandstone, but no coal, and turned off S. 
 line of strike to the Pinungah River. Got down on the 
 river at 2, one point above house. Sandstone, but no 
 coal. At 2.10 took bearing of high hill, 70"^ (E.N.E.). 
 
 'Feb. Mli.—Ki 8.10 started for a high hill. D. 110° 
 (E.S.E.). Bar. at bottom, 29-9. At 8.30 came upon 
 small inland lake (pace, one mile per hour) at nearly 
 100 feet above river, about 100 yards long. At 9.5 
 arrived at place near top. Elevation 490 feet. Bar. 
 29.23. Rocks, sandstone. Mem. — Remark on different 
 character of jungle here ; many palms, called by the 
 Malays " Sardang " and " Bidang." Large canes, 
 capital for making atap. A hill bearing 250° (W.S.W.), 
 about 700 feet high, across the river. Left bottle on 
 top. Continuing on in a D. E., got to elevation 650 feet 
 at 9.45. At 11.15, 1400 feet ; arrived on top of first 
 hill. The present direction of spur N.N.E. (20°). 
 Hills to the west of about same elevation. At 11.45, 
 having reached an elevation of 1450 feet from the river, 
 stopped. The hill composed of ferruginous sandstone.
 
 Extracts front Diary of tJic lad Expedition. 269 
 
 Hill bearing 90° (E.) from top. Elevation about 2500 
 feet. Oar course having been about E., 90°. The 
 water in brooks we drank, and very pleasant it 
 was. At 3 arrived back, having been lost since 11.45 
 through going S. a little away round hills and dales — 
 a fearful thing to be lost — and eventually going W., 
 got back at 3. Lost all my things to-day on the hill — • 
 plates, knives, &c. ; but sent two men back after them, 
 and luckily got them. C. Harean and Angang came 
 back. Credit $2 to Salleh and Samat. 
 
 Fvh. 5fA.— Left at 7.30, D. 210° (S.AY.), bar. 
 29.75. Rate, half a mile per hour. At 8, 190° (S.) 
 and terrific rapid. At 8.25, 230° (S.W.). 
 
 Did not notice any coal on the " carangans," except on 
 that one quite near the outcrop of the coal-seam above 
 noted. This carangan is about 400 yards long, and 
 under each boulder is a small rolled pebble of coal. 
 At 8.50, 210° (S.W.). At 9, small houses on the left 
 (right bank) for rattan gathering. Orang Tungara. 
 
 At 150° (S.E.); travel on foot near the banks of 
 
 the river all the way. Sandstone and quartz measures. 
 
 At 9.15, 160° (S.E.). At 9.40, 170° (S.B.). Foot 
 travel again after having eaten Sukang Durian. At 
 11, 1G0° (S.E.) ; and as we had got to a terrific 
 waterfall and rapid, where it was very dangerous 
 and almost impossible for the prahus to go up, stopped. 
 Bar. ; elevation, fifty feet. 
 
 We stopped at a place on the right bank (left bank), 
 where found part of a skull of a man (and copper 
 tol)acco-box lid), whom Jabit said had been killed while 
 swimming in the river by men of " Sepulut," who are 
 Elangs, and cannot be far from the Sebokong. Jabit 
 says that the day he came down the Pinungah was 
 the day after the Sepulut men had come down to Tun-
 
 270 North Borneo. 
 
 gara and killed ten men. The river Sepnlut men 
 are said to live on a big river whose moutli is not far 
 from Silam, and wliicli therefore must be either the 
 Siboku or the Sumbakong. 
 
 Feb. 6f/i.— Bar. 28.5. At 8.20, D. 170° (S.E.), 
 started on foot. At 8.30 travelling along river-bank, 
 80 to 100 feet high. Sandstone. At 8.40, 160° (S.E.). 
 Height, 100 feet. At 9.25, 130° (S.E.), flood. 
 Continuing our arduous way along places where 
 a slip would have been fatal, we arrived at 9.55 
 on the river again, and the country to the S. and S.E. 
 seemed more open and less hilly. Our direction 110° 
 (S.E.). Elevation, 100 feet. Carangan composed of 
 red and black ferruginous sandstone. At 10.30 got 
 on some prahns, which luckily were going up the 
 river. 110° (S.E.). Two miles per hour. 
 
 Feb. 7th. — Prahus came up at 9, having been upset 
 
 four times. We lost several paddles, some rice, and 
 
 the men a lot of other small things. At 10.40 got 
 
 away up stream. . . , As we proceed the country 
 
 becomes flatter and flatter. ... At 3.30 stojDped. 
 
 Elevation 20 feet. 
 
 ***** 
 
 Feb. 8th. — At 2.15 arrived at Tungara, where we 
 nearly had a row, all through a misunderstanding 
 with the Muruts, which, had not some traders 
 arrived just in time, would have ended in a fight. 
 The Tungara people took our party for people 
 from the Upper Kinabatangan (Millian), with whom 
 they are in feud, and who are also Mnruts of Tungara. 
 My men say they resemble the Padan people 
 
 Feb. 9th. — Tracing back Witti's letter to some 
 Tungara men named Silomboks. AYitti is said to have 
 given it at Telonangoh, which is a Tungara campong,
 
 Extracts from Diary of tJic last Expedition. 271 
 
 at the head of the Pinungah. From Telonangoh, "\Yitti 
 ■s\as going to the Sepulut, which is a five-days' journey 
 on to the Simbokong, at the junction of that river with 
 the Rouhab. 
 
 At 9.15, 310° (N.AV.) Bar. 29.75. 
 
 Tungara : houses, G ; men, 25 ; women, 36 ; head- 
 man, " Kawangin." 
 
 Descvi'ption : Short hair, inclined to be frizzy ; dark 
 skins ; wear cliawat about two inches wide. Use spears, 
 sumpitans, and parangs. At 9.45, 200° (S.W.). 
 
 At 10.20 stopped at a carangan and secured 
 specimens of coal, sandstone, and cla3\ A high water- 
 fall eventually stopped us. Much against will had to 
 go back, as river much flooded. Natives know of no 
 outcrop of coal about here, but there must be one 
 somewhere. 
 
 At 1.25 got back to last Tumbanoi huts. Torrents 
 of rain. The most terrible day ever spent, shooting 
 rapids. Nearly over in one rapid; we stuck half-way 
 down on some stones, and the prahu nearly broke in 
 two. 
 
 At Tungara our prahus came to the bank, and, 
 fearing nothing, we walked up to a place where several 
 Muruts were making a new house. We entered, and I 
 told my interpreter to buy a native bamboo-case for 
 keeping tobacco and light (bamboo, piece of china, and 
 touchwood). There were about seven or eight men in 
 the house, and I noticed that, in spite of my interpreter, 
 one by one they slipped away and went into the jungle, 
 taking their sumpitans, spears, &c., and making as if 
 they would shoot birds or monke3'^s. My men became 
 suspicious, and they also one by one went away to get 
 their guns and other weapons. The interpreter and my- 
 self were at last the only occu])ants of the house, when I
 
 272 North Borneo. 
 
 heard shouting on the hills near ns, and my man said, 
 " G-et down, master ; quick, quick !" I lost no time 
 in jumping down and calling for my rifle and 
 sword. The Muruts I saw about fifteen on a hill to the 
 right, and about twice that number on a hill in front. 
 They were coming down on us also. Xow, however, 
 ray men came up from the boats, guns full-cocked, and 
 my boy came running with my "Winchester. AYe 
 grouped our little band, mounting eleven rifles, and 
 waited. The sumpitans of the Muruts were pointed 
 towards us, and their spears were already elevated. 
 My men had their rifles at their shoulders, ready to fire, 
 when who should rush up (just in time to save us, 
 perhaps) but our friends the Tambanois, our Suluman 
 friends of Bongoku. " Run away ! " shouted {megldoh) 
 they to the Muruts, "run away!" "Wait, don't 
 fire," they shouted to our party, and running to the 
 headman of the Muruts they explained matters, and we 
 learnt that seeing no faces they knew, the Muruts 
 thought we wanted to kill them, and they thought my 
 interpreter was merely a trap to deceive them. They 
 also thought my camp-chair was a machine to trap men 
 and catch them. Matters were now explained, and in 
 the morning they w^ere anxious to trade with us, and I 
 bought a sumpitan and some other native things. The 
 old man said that he and all his people would go with 
 us to fight Sepuluts, if I would go with them ; they 
 assured me that these were the people that killed 
 "Witti, and that it was five days' journey from the head 
 of the Pinungah. 
 
 Shooting rapids to-day was indeed a terrible 
 business. The river flooded, and waves like those on 
 the beach at Labuan all across the river, with the roar
 
 v^^^i:^^#-*^'v
 
 Extracts fro77i Diary of the last Expeditio7i. 273 
 
 of the torrent almost deafening. Once we shot down a 
 carangan, and right in the middle we struck on a rock, 
 hang ! Another bang and the prahu half filled. " Get 
 out, get out," I roared, and down got my Sarawak 
 men, and pulled the prahu straight just in time, and 
 we shot into deep water safely, but at the speed of a 
 railway-train. 
 
 Feh. 10th. — At 8 got away, and going up stream 
 until 8.15, when got on right bank (left bank), (bar. 
 29.8), and in D. 280° (S.W.) went through jungle ; 
 two miles per hour. At 8.25, 200°, S.W. 
 
 At 8.30 crossed the Tepokong, a tributary of the 
 Pinungah. About W. at 8.45, and crossed the Tepo- 
 kong again, D. S.AY., 220°. Crossed again, 8.50. Having 
 crossed again, 8.55, D. 260°, W. At 9.10, 300 feet, 
 D. 260°, W. ; crossed two tributaries of the Tepokong, 
 and at 9.20 crossed latter at 450 feet. At 9.25 D. W. 
 At 9.40 got to top of hill, 600 feet high, and rested a 
 few minutes. D. 260°, W. At 10.10 arrived at the 
 place where the coal was. Height 750 feet, where 
 in a mixture of light yellow clay found a kind of 
 lignite in small lumps, which may be decomposed 
 surface coal. 
 
 Feh. llth. — After a terrible day of narrow escapes 
 from drowning got to the place where first stopped 
 with Ward, one day up stream from Pinungah. At 
 one rapid to-day my prahu half filled. 
 
 Feh. 12t]i. — To-day a fearful upset, caused by 
 Durahim, who did not get out of the prahu. 
 
 Lost. 
 
 Paddles 3 
 
 Prismatic compass . . .1 
 
 T
 
 274 
 
 North Borneo. 
 
 Barometer, aneroid . . .1 
 Cross-staff . . . . 1 
 
 Sword-bayonet .... 1 
 Ramrod . . . . .1 
 Saucepans . . . . ' . 2 
 Trypan . . . . .1 
 
 Duraliim, 1 hat ; Guntar, 1 hat ; Taha, 1 hat ; gun- 
 powder. Net, 1. 
 
 Wick, 1 yard ; jam, 6; frypan, 1 ; candles, 3 packets ; 
 matches, 12 ; saucepan ; porter-beer, 6 bottles ; 
 vegetables, 2 tins; tea, 12 bundles; fish, 7 
 tins ; sauce, 1 bottle ; sherry, 2 bottles ; biscuits, 2 
 tins (small) ; butter, 2 ; trading cloth, 1 piece ; soap, 
 
 2 pats; whisky, 1 bottle; , 1 ; fish, 2 haddocks; 
 
 and a lot of macaroni. 
 
 Men in the loraliu ujyset. 
 Durahim, Jabit. 
 
 Murrim. 
 Monup. 
 Gruntar. 
 accident. — "When 
 
 Mile. 
 Limbang. 
 
 Our accident. — When starting to-day I somehow 
 feared that the large prahu would come to grief, so I 
 got in the smaller one. We had passed two or three 
 bad rapids, my men being very careful, and getting 
 out at every hard bit. The big boat came shooting 
 down one great rapid in a gallant but rather fool- 
 hardy way, and I cautioned the men. We were not 
 far from Pinungah when we arrived at a very swift 
 rapid, about two fathoms high perhaps. My men all 
 got out, and we dragged the boat over some big stones 
 very carefully. In our rear came the big boat, making 
 straight for the middle of the rapid. I called to them,
 
 Extracts front Diary of the last Expeditio7i. 275 
 
 but hang they went on a rock, and Durahim sliot off 
 the bow into the surging torrent. I saw him dis- 
 appear, and his hat float away down stream, but he 
 got to the side and went back to his prahu. I shouted 
 again to them to get out and pull the boat down, and 
 then my attention was called away by the danger to 
 ourselves, from some large waves. I got into my boat, 
 and we were just starting away clear of the rapid 
 when hanc)^ hang, the big prahu shot down on top of 
 us, and nearly turned us over. Her bow went right 
 on top of our stern. The terrific current turned her 
 over ; and one, two, three men I saw carried away like 
 corks down stream. I rushed to the prahu up to my 
 waist in the torrent, and we all landed out the things 
 as quick as possible — guns, ginger, bayonets, rugs, 
 blankets, tins, &c. Fortunately our prahu had struck 
 on two big rocks, and so we were enabled to get some 
 of the things out ; as it is, our losses are very severe, 
 and I am not able to think of them as yet. I will cut 
 Durahim's and Murrim's wages if it turns out, as I 
 think, that the prahu was turned over by their fault. 
 All my clothes, rugs, bed, wet through, and in a very 
 miserable state we continued our journey to Pinungah, 
 where we arrived much discouraged and tired out. 
 
 Feb. ISth. — Left at 8.35 Pinungah for Lamag, with 
 the Sulu guide for Silam. Stopped at 3.30 at the 
 place where we shot the fowls going up. About four 
 or five days from Pinungah, if going against the 
 stream. Took also from Pinungah one bag Company's 
 rice ; bought one bag from Hadgi Bustan, $8 ; one 
 enamelled iron pot lost in the Pinungah. We get the 
 most terrible weather, rains every day, all up the 
 Pinungah River, and now every day rain on the Kina- 
 
 T 2
 
 2/6 North Borneo. 
 
 batangan. The men have pretty hard times ; no fish ; 
 and Beveridge's men did not even get salt coming up. 
 
 Feh. \Aith. — Left up-stream at 7 ; stopped at Tuan 
 Murrim at 2 to 2.30. Last night Corporal Hassan ar- 
 rived with some of my things, which Bongku had fished 
 out of the Pinungah River. My prismatic compass, 
 cross-staff, barometer, all got back, but the two former 
 spoiled. We go about ten miles per hour. I was very 
 much astonished and pleased, of course, to get my 
 things, and told the corporal to give two pieces of 
 panjang tuguli to Bon. At 5.10 got to Tegai. 
 
 Feb. 15^/^.— Left at 5.30. ... At 4 stopped at 
 Penglina Sarai's house. Above Lakam. 
 
 Feh. IQth. — At 7.30 left Penglima Sarai, and at 1 
 entered the Lamag. . . . The country up the river 
 very like that of the Tenegang, and we shall have 
 great difficulty in going overland. Darhu says the 
 path will be grown over and perhaps lost. ... At 
 3.5 stopped on left bank. . Rain and wind had set in 
 — a terrible night. 
 
 Feh. 17th. — Got up prahus, and at 9.20 got away; 
 general direction E. (to E.S.E. and S.E.). At 9.40 
 got on to the Lamag again, and as the river was 
 flooded, we were obliged to send back for the small 
 prahu. At 10.55 arrived at a tributary of the Lamag 
 called Taphar Pahti, which at 11.30^ having dragged 
 the prahu through a fearful swamp, got across the 
 stream with awful difficulties. A hundred yards 
 further on another swamp, and got across at 11.40. 
 
 At 1.10, Thank God, got past a fearful swamp. No 
 water, horse-leeches. A terrible elephant swamp. 
 Elephant dung. 
 
 At 3 we stopped, as our way led us on another
 
 Extracts from Diary of the Last Expedition. 277 
 
 swamp. We made a hut, and slept in spite of leeclies, 
 ants, and wet. Eain as usual ! Our direction to-day 
 E. to S.E., but out of our way to avoid swamp to 
 the E. 
 
 ¥£}). 18th. — We found ourselves on a hill in the 
 midst of an impenetrable swamp. As far as the eye 
 could see, which we got at by climbing trees, nothing 
 but swamp, swamp ; rolling grass growing twenty 
 feet high, and as sharp as a knife. Concluded to turn 
 back, as impossible to go forward, and at 8.30 got 
 across the swamp of yesterday. We determined to go 
 across the Lamag again, and try for the third time to 
 cross to Segama. The swamp which stopped us is, 
 no doubt, the source of several small tributaries of the 
 Kinabatangan, and is very extensive and deep. At 
 10.35, having got back across the Lamag, proceeded 
 in a D. S. to S.S.E. along right bank (left bank) of the 
 river. Travelling along, therefore, we were obliged to 
 go S.W. to W., until impossible to proceed further, as 
 the stream bends round to the W. and N.W. We 
 therefore determined to cross again, and a large tree 
 had to be cut down in order to get across. At 12.30 
 we began to cut ; the handle of the big axe broke, and 
 we were obliged to cut tbe tree down with hand-axes 
 and parangs. At 1.15 the tree fell. At 2.15 got 
 back on to the river Lamag again. Travelling 
 along elephant track, suddenly heard screams in the 
 jungle and a rush of animals. I tore down the slope 
 in front, in spite of thorns and spines, but the animals 
 were too quick for me and got away. At 3.30 we 
 went into camp for the night. No water, and we 
 were obliged to drink the muddy water found in swamp- 
 pools. The stench of it was rank and vile. We have
 
 278 North Borneo. 
 
 gone about eight miles tbrougli trackless waste and 
 jungle ; main direction S.E. to S. 
 
 Feh. 19th.~At 7.40 left; D. S.E., over small liills. 
 After travelling along a trackless forest and across a 
 swamp covered with prickly thorns (Malay — Salal:), 
 and at 8.50 came across small stream running S.E., 
 and which Darhu said was a tributary of the Segama. 
 At 9.10 came to a river about three fathoms wide, 
 running N., which Darhu says is the Masah, a tribu- 
 tary of the Segama. At 10.10 crossed another stream. 
 At 10.15 another small stream, brown in colour, as if 
 draining a swamp, running S.E. At 11.5 another 
 swampy tract and creek. At 12.30 stopped and ate. 
 Another small creek at 12.30. We went on again at 
 1.30, and at 2.30 got to the end of our tether — that 
 is, we arrived at the end of a hill, swamps surround- 
 ing us on all sides. A dismal waste, swarming with 
 horse-leeches, and rotten through and through. What 
 could be done ? Only one thing — go back. 
 
 Feb. 20th. — Yery weak from leeches, as no less than 
 ten fed full on each leg yesterday. 
 
 Feb. 21st. — Yesterday we got back to the mouth of 
 
 the Lamag ; a terrible day's journey ; and when, tired 
 
 out, we arrived, I counted no less than ten leeches on 
 
 each foot. Yesterday we came across outcrop of 
 
 lignite similar to that at Pinungah. Rock, sandstone. 
 ***** 
 
 Feb. 2ord. — At 7 arrived at the big mouth of the 
 Kinabatangan. Crocodiles, fish. Distance, three miles 
 to four miles per hour. A wait from 8.30 to 9.35. 
 
 Feb. 24th. — AYe were stopped to-day preparing for 
 sea. The monsoon blowing very strong, and the 
 breakers white on the beach. We had to make
 
 Extracts from Diary of the last Expedition. 279 
 
 "giroupi" alltlieprahns — that is, put one atap. We 
 got away at 10.30 ; fearful sea. We paddled out into 
 the night, tossing and rolling. Nearly upset, dark 
 night, could only hear roar of breakers on the beach. 
 At 12 put back, worn out and wretched, wet through 
 and through. 
 
 ¥eb. Ihili. — Left the mouth of the Kinabatangan at 
 7.30, myself, Beveridge, boy, and Bilal going on foot ; 
 the beach covered with trunks of trees and strewn 
 with wreckage. At first we kept up well and got 
 ahead of the four prahus, but when the sandy beach 
 changed to mud, and we had to walk along up to our 
 knees in the stuff, we soon fell behind. At 12 we saw 
 the last of the prahus away out to sea. We were 
 toiling through a swamp, the sun blazing down upon 
 us and scorching our bodies to death. We shouted, 
 we screamed, and fired guns, but the people in the 
 boats never heard us, and footsore and tired out, with 
 parched throats, we continued our weary way. At 5, 
 having walked eighteen miles, half of which was through 
 swamp and clay, we arrived at the Mamalunan Eiver, 
 which is broad, and brackish water. Daku has been 
 up for two days ; no fresh water, and nothing but nipa. 
 We crossed four rivers, the largest named Tausan 
 Pukol. Snipe, ducks, deer, pigs, and crocodiles not a 
 few. Yesterday we shot two deer. 
 
 Feb. 26th. — Our course yesterday was S. and then 
 S.E. To-day we tried to get out, and from 8 to 
 11 fighting terrific waves, which threatened to swamp 
 the boats. Then a squall came on and rain in 
 torents. On the shore was almost as bad as in the 
 prahus, sinking up to one's knees all the time in 
 the mud and clay ; slippery and wet through. Mos-
 
 28o NortJi Borneo. 
 
 quitoes terrible, and all night a liainraering of distant 
 gongs. 
 
 Feb. 21th. — Left Mamalunan at 7, walking along 
 beacli, wbicli by-and-by became sandy, at two miles per 
 hour. Shot at a shark several times, hit. At 9 arrived 
 at the mouth of the Segama after a terrible voyage. 
 The waves washed clean over the prahus more than 
 once. Eiver about 1000 yards wide at mouth. Pace 
 two miles per hour. 
 
 ***** 
 
 March 1st. — (Just one year ago left Sandakan for the 
 Labok.) Got away at 7.30, D. 260° (W.). At 7.40, 
 240° (S.W.). At 7.45, 210° (S.W.). At 7.50, 200° 
 (S.W.). At 8, 300° (N.W.). At 8.5, 250° (S.W.). 
 At 8.7, 210° (S.W.). At 8.20, 270° (W.). At 8.25, 
 360° (K). At 8.35, 270° (W.). At 8.45, 170° (S.). 
 At 9, 260° (W.). At 9.10, 110° (S.E.). At 9.20, 130° 
 (S.E.). At 9.30, 180° (S.). At 9.45 a small tribu- 
 tary on left six feet wide. At 9.45, 220° (S.W.). A 
 9.55, 260° (W.). At 10, 240° (W.S.W.). At 10.7, 
 270° (W.). At 10.15, 260° (W.). At 10.24, 100° 
 (E.). At 10.30, 180° (S.). At 10.35, 270° (W.). At 
 10.40, 170° (S.). At 10.45, 270° (W.). At 11, 290° 
 (N.W.). At 11.10, 170° (S.). At 11.20, 280° (W.). 
 At 11.35, 180° (S.). Left tidal part. High banks, 
 evidences of immense floods, much sand. At 11.50, 
 230° (W.). At 12.15, 250° (W.). At 12.20, 90° (E.). 
 At 12.35, 200° (S.W.). Passed small tributary on 
 
 the left about two fathoms wide (name ). 1 
 
 have now four men sick ; one. Mile, left at Malapi. At 
 12.55, 230° (S.W.). At 1.15 a small tributary on the 
 left three or four fathoms wide at mouth. Thunder and 
 rain to-day. At 1.20, 240° (S.W.). At 1.55, 230° At
 
 Hoii) the last Expedition ended. 
 
 28[ 
 
 2.10, 240° (N.W.). At 2.24, 280° (N.W.). At 2.30, 
 30° (N.E.). At 2.40, 300° (N.W.). Tracks of deer ; 
 large deposits of sand ; river swift and deep. At 3.25, 
 160° (S.E.). At 3.40, 290° (N.W.).^ 
 
 • The last day's notes are given in full, to show the character and 
 method of the work, and the frequency of the observations which 
 were set down in this manner from day to day, and almost up to 
 the moment when the diarist left his boat to return to it a corpse in 
 the arms of his followers. On the inside of the cover of the diary 
 are several rough sketches of swords and spears, and geological or 
 geographical diagrams. Among the latter is the following, which 
 was probably intended as memoranda for a map of his route : —
 
 282 North Borneo, 
 
 VI. 
 HOW THE LAST EXPEDITION ENDED. 
 
 Letter from Governor Treacher — ]\Ir. Resident Fryer's Report — Open- 
 ing of the Inqiiest — The evidence — Adjourned for the arrival of 
 the last expeditionary boats — Verdict of the jury. 
 
 " 8andahan, March 19th, 1883. 
 " SiK, — It is with tlie greatest possible regret that I 
 enclose copy of a letter from Mr. Resident Pryer, in 
 which he reports the sad intelligence of the death from 
 the accidental discharge of his own gun of Mr. F. 
 Hatton on the 1st instant, of which I only heard on 
 my arrival here on the 16th instant. 
 
 "The melancholy details are carefully described in 
 Mr. Pryer's letter; and the evidence given at the 
 coroner's inquest, of which I enclose a copy, is con- 
 clusive that Mr. Hatton met with his death by shoot- 
 ing himself, by accident, in the jungle, whilst returning, 
 after shooting at an elephant on the banks of the 
 Segama Piver on the east coast, which he was eiigagcd 
 in prospecting for gold and other minerals. 
 
 " On the 4th instant he was buried at Elopura, being 
 followed to the grave by the Resident, all the Euro- 
 peans, and many inhabitants, Chinese and native, of 
 Sandakan. 
 
 "In Mr. Hatton's death the Company has lost a
 
 Holu the last Expedition eftded. 28 
 
 3 
 
 valuable officer, whose reports of journeys in the 
 interior, and of metalliferous researches amidst cir- 
 cumstances of much difficulty, and oftentimes of per- 
 sonal danger, will remain as reliable records in the 
 annals of the North Borneo Company. 
 
 " Mr. Hatton was devoted to the work he had in 
 hand, and his scientific attainments made him enthu- 
 siastic in his interesting pursuits. 
 
 " Personally his amiability endeared him to all who 
 came in contact with him. He was as popular amongst 
 his brother officers as he was trusted among the natives 
 who followed him so faithfully, to his death, in his 
 inland journeys. 
 
 " To me he was always loyal, performing his duties 
 with great zeal and intelligence, and I sincerely deplore 
 the early loss of a scientific officer whose future was 
 so full of promise, and for whom I entertained a per- 
 sonal feeling of friendship and esteem. 
 
 " Mr. Beveridge, who had accompanied the deceased 
 on nearly all his travels in Boimeo, and who was with 
 him at the last, tells me that he had never seen him in 
 better health and spirits, looking forward as he was to 
 his approaching return to England and reunion with 
 his family, his deep affection for whom was apparent 
 to any one long in his company. 
 
 " I would add that the Winchester carbine which 
 caused the fatal accident, apjDcars to be a dangerous 
 weapon to carry in the jungle, the trigger being so 
 very sensitive that a sharp tap on the ground would 
 set it off when at full cock. 
 
 " I have requested Mr. Eesidcnt Pryer to see that 
 the deceased's personal effects are carefully collected 
 and forwarded to the London officp by the first oppor-
 
 284 North Borneo. 
 
 tunitj. I am sorry that I cannot see to this myself, as 
 my stay here is brief and every moment occupied, the 
 steamer by which I leave for Kudat being expected 
 here this evening. 
 
 " I beg to call your attention to the devotion of Mr. 
 Beveridge and the men in bringing the corpse all the 
 way by sea to Sandakan in a small gobang or canoe in 
 a tropical climate. Some recognition of these services 
 is called for, and on this subject I will address you in 
 a separate letter. 
 
 " I have the honour to be, sir, 
 
 " Your obedient servant, 
 
 " W. H. Treacher, 
 
 " Governor. 
 "The Chairman, 
 " British Xorth Borneo Company." 
 
 " Eloimra, March 7th, 1883. 
 
 " Sir, — It is my melancholy duty to have to report 
 to you the death of Mr. Frank Hatton by a shot from 
 his own gun on the 1st instant up the Segama River. 
 
 " I have the honour to enclose the report of the 
 coroner's inquest ; but in order to make the matter 
 quite clear will give a short account of the sad 
 occurrence. 
 
 *'It appears that Mr. Hatton's expedition was com- 
 posed of four boats. Mr. Hatton was in the first, 
 Mr. Beveridge, about an hour behind, in the last. Mr. 
 Hatton fired from his boat at an elephant, twice 
 wounding it, apparently severely ; and jumping on 
 shore, accompanied only by his mandore, Drahman, 
 gave chase. They very soon came up to the elephant, 
 which had stopped, and w^as roaring or grumbling.
 
 How the last Expedition ended. 285 
 
 Thinking no doubt the Winchester rifle, with which 
 alone he was armed, too light to attack the elephaiit, 
 he left Drahman to watch it, and went back and called 
 all the men who were near, armed them with Sniders, 
 and told them to come with him. The elephant had, 
 however, in the meantime moved off, and they all went 
 after it ; but it then being nearly dark, Mr. Hatton 
 was at last persuaded to return to his boat. On the 
 way back he was walking with his rifle (the Winchester) 
 at the shoulder, and stooping down to pass underneath 
 a vine (a creeper), put out his hand, holding the stock 
 of the rifle in it, to lift up the vine. The stock was thus 
 from him, the muzzle towards him, the rifle probably 
 being on full cock (though there is no direct evidence 
 of this); at the instant he was in this position, partially 
 stooping, his arm extended from him, the muzzle of 
 the gun must have slid down his shoulder, leaving it 
 pointing at the top of his shoulder, and at this instant 
 it went off, presumably from the trigger having been 
 pulled by some twigs of the creeper. The ball entered 
 at the collar-bone and came out at the back somewhat 
 lower down. His men were round him in a moment, 
 and seized him before he fell, but ' Oodeen, Oodeen, 
 mati sahya, Oodeen,' was all he said. Oodeen was 
 his boy, a Tutong lad, on whose shoulder his head was 
 then resting. One, if not two, of the main arteries were 
 severed, and death ensued very rapidly ; but Mr 
 Beveridge had almost arrived at the place where Mr. 
 Hatton landed, heard the fatal shot and the cries that 
 followed, and rushed up to the spot, arriving there 
 within four to five minutes of the occurrence, and while 
 ]\Ir. Hatton was still alive ; but nothing could be done, 
 and in a moment or two more he breathed his last.
 
 286 North Borneo. 
 
 " The body was then placed in a gobang and brought 
 down with all despatch to Elopura. 
 
 "On Sunday last, the 4th instant, the inquest was 
 opened, and on the same day the body was buried in 
 the Christian burial-ground here. 
 
 " This morning, the remaining three boats having 
 arrived, the inquest was resumed, and a verdict re- 
 turned with which I fully concur. 
 
 " Mr. Hatton's diary includes, as far as I have been 
 able to see, full observations and notes of the course 
 of the Kinabatangan up to and beyond Pinungah. 
 They will be most valuable, and I will take care to 
 have them worked out. 
 
 " I propose to reward the men who specially exerted 
 themselves, and also on account of their general beha- 
 viour and feeling, with one month's extra pay, while I 
 would propose that your Excellency sanction the pay- 
 ment to Mr. Beve ridge of three months' extra pay on 
 account of his great exertions on the occasion. 
 
 " In the above narrative I notice I have omitted 
 to mention that Mr. Hatton had got back to within 
 about 150 yards of the boats when the accident 
 happened, I may also mention that Mr. Hatton 
 having shot himself with his own rifle appearing 
 almost incredible to Mr. Beveridge, he took special 
 pains, and within a very few minutes of the occurrence, 
 to inquire into and satisfy himself of the truth of the 
 matter. 
 
 " I cannot refrain from expressing my sorrow, which 
 is shared in by all those here, down to the lowest 
 native who knew him, at this untimely close to a career 
 which, brilliantly begun, was full of so much promise 
 in the future. His geographical notes will, however.
 
 H. !=0
 
 How the last Expedition ended. 287 
 
 be of great value, and his name will be attached to 
 
 the first correct chart of the Kinabatangan Eiver. 
 
 " I have the honour to be, sir, 
 
 " Your most obedient servant, 
 
 " (Signed) W. B. Fryer, 
 
 " Kesident. 
 " His Excellency, 
 " The Hon. W. H. Treacher, 
 " Governor of Sabah." 
 
 Elopura, March ifli, 1883 
 INQUEST IXTO DEATH OF FRANK HATTOX. 
 Messrs. Little, Cook, Sampson, Wickham, Eossell, Colliuson, Pen- 
 don, McLean, Xeubronner, Wait, Do Lissa, Allen. Mr. Collinson 
 agreed to as foreman. 
 
 Jury sworn in. 
 
 Dr. Walker (sworn) says : — About 1 a.m. this morning was 
 called and told that Mr. Hatton was dead. Saw him in a 
 gobang. Examined the body and found wound under the right 
 collar-bone below middle of bone ; in turning over body, there Avas 
 one opening about half an inch from spine, opi)osite the lower third 
 of shoulder-blade ; the former named was evidently the entrance, the 
 latter the exit, of a bullet. The wound was evidently that of a 
 bullet. Seemed to be light traces of burning near former wound, as 
 though the gun had been very close. The wound was such as might 
 have been made by cartridge (produced). I examined gun (pro- 
 duced) and find it covered with mud, about one-third of an inch 
 of dried mud stopping up muzzle. I removed cartridges ; find 
 seven all loaded; no discharged cartridge. Gun dirty, and had 
 evidently been fired recently. Body very much decomposed. 
 Examined coat of deceased ; so much coated with blood, impossible 
 to say whether it had been singed by the discharge or not ; seems 
 blackened, but it is impossible to say whether dried blood or not ; 
 coat had been washed at the time I examined it. 
 
 Cross-examined by Mr. de Lissa : — There was a hole in both coat 
 and singlet.
 
 2 88 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 Cross-exammed hy Foreman : — There was no discharged cartridge 
 in the rifle. The rifle was loaded in the ordinary way. This (pro- 
 ducing one) is the identical bullet that was in the discharging 
 chamber. 
 
 Cross-examined hy Mr. Little : — Wound was nearly horizontal posi- 
 tion ; wound slightly below. 
 
 Cross-examined, hy Mr. de Lissa : — Think it unlikely Mr. Hatton 
 (deceased) would have used the lever for reloading the rifle. (Rifle is 
 a "Winchester repeater.) 
 
 Andrew Beveridge (sworn) states : — On the 1st of March, about 
 5 p.m., I was going up the Segama River, Sugoon Tukal exact name 
 of place on the right-hand bank going up Segama. I heard report 
 of a gun inland while still in gobang. Heard man sing out from the 
 bank, " Lekas tuan matee." I ran as quickly as possible to the spot, 
 and found Mr. Hatton just breathing his last. Could see that he just 
 had breath in him and no more. Gun was on left side of him, muzzle 
 pointing from him. Men had removed it from where it was before. 
 Oodin was holding his head up, and Drahim had his arm round his 
 shoulder. I at once took charge of the gun. I put him into the 
 gobang and fetched him to Sandakan as quickly as possible, arriving 
 here about 12, midnight, last night. 
 
 Cross-examined hy Mr. de Lissa : — Only heard one shot fired from 
 the time shot was fired until time I arrived on the spot ; it might be 
 from four to five minutes. 
 
 Cross-examined hy Mr. GolUnson : — I did nothing to the gun beyond 
 taking care of it, and having nothing taken from it. I took no cart- 
 ridges out of it, and told the boy not to take any. 
 
 Cross-examined by Mr. Cook : — "Was the hammer of the gun down 1 
 It was. I did not inquire if any cartridges had been taken out of the 
 gun. It was the gun he always used. There were three other guns 
 (rifles) there. 
 
 Cross-examiived hy Coroner : — I did not notice if any of the other 
 ffuns had been recently discharged. Mr. Hatton was on the best 
 terms with his men, and there was no reason to suppose any ill- 
 feeling between them ; they would do anything for him. It 
 was a very open place Mr. Hatton was lying at ; not much 
 undergrowth ; there was a vine within four feet of him ; his feet 
 were towards it. Saw no other people for four days previously. 
 The men told me Mr. Hatton had been pushing the vine out of his 
 way with the rifle ; that he (deceased) had a gun in each hand. I 
 examined the vine, and it was marked as though by a gun ; it would
 
 Holu the last Expedition ended, 289 
 
 have impeded his progress. The abrasion on the vine was below. 
 The men said the muzzle was on his breast as he felL (IMr. Beveridge 
 explains how the men said he (deceased) was carrying the rifle, viz. 
 with it at the shoulder. He pushed up the vine from below, the 
 muzzle being slightly free from the shoulder, and it went off at that 
 moment. All this is possible as. demonstrated.) 
 
 Dr. "Walker (recalled) states : — Thinks it quite possible that the 
 muzzle was within a few inches of his body at the time of discharge, 
 and thinks it quite possible the matter might have occurred as 
 demonstrated. Also wishes to add, wound was such as to cause very 
 sudden death, as one at least, if not two main arteries must have been 
 severed. 
 
 Mr. Beveridge states deceased was in the habit of carrying a stick 
 with which he brushed vines out of his way as he walked. The 
 mark on the vine was about four feet from the ground. 
 
 Cross-examined hy Mr. de Lissa : — It was after six o'clock. I left 
 scene of accident on the 1st of March, and arrived about II last 
 night, fifty-three hours. Came down Segama, one day along sea- 
 lieach ; entered main mouth of Kina llatangan, through Tuisanbahrn, 
 out of the Mumiang along the sea-shore, into the Bay of Sandakan. 
 Had eleven men in the small gobang. Did not sleep night or day till 
 we arrived at Sandakan. Stopped three times, for about half an hour 
 each time, to cook rice. Should say we Avere sixty miles up the 
 Segama. Paddled the whole distance. (Mr. Beveridge complimented 
 on his conduct in the matter.) 
 
 Beelah (sworn by Court Interpreter) states : — Were going up the 
 Segama. I was in a small gobang behind with the cooking utensils. 
 I was cook, general assistant, and interpreter. Was in the gobang. 
 Heard two shots. Paddled on quickly. Mr. Hatton's boy came and 
 said, " Tuan wants your gun." I was sick. Boy said, " You come 
 t(jn." Muddy ground. Was told there had been two elephants. 
 Mr. Hatton told me to come. I said, " It's nearly dark ; perhaps the 
 elephants will hurt us." Mr. Hatton ordered lamps, and told two 
 men to bring them, Nugong and Jabit. Went quarter of an hour 
 into the forest. It was growing dark. I said, " Let us go back." 
 Mr. Hatton said, " Come on; I would rather $100 than lose the ele- 
 l)]iant." Dramant said, "Come back; it's dark." Mr. Hatton said, 
 " Very well." I went back to get hot tea and other things. The boy 
 was behind Mr. Hatton. Mr. Hatton lifted a creeper. Rifle went 
 (ill'. Tuan called " Oodin." Boy, Draman and myself took hold of 
 him. I said, " ' Lukas,' call Mr. Beveridge." Mr. Beveridge said, 
 
 U
 
 290 North Borneo. 
 
 " Who has done this, the elephant V I said, " iSTo, we -would have 
 died first." He ordered him (deceased) to be put in the boat. The 
 ritlc was entangled in the "akar" of the vine and "rice dua kalee." 
 I Avas about ten fathoms off on Mr. Hatton's left hand. "NMien Mr. 
 Hatton fell, the rifle fell too. Jumat told nie the rifle was entanyled. 
 I did not absolutely see it myself. Mr. Hatton was in the habit ol 
 holding the rifle in the middle. I don't know exactly who touched 
 the rifle first. I was looking to Mr. Hatton. A lot of men came. 
 It was about half-past five. When I got to the boat it was dark. 
 Mr. Hatton said simply, " Oodin, Oodin, matee sayah." The boy 
 took care of the rifle in an ordinary way. Mr, Hatton himself used 
 to clean the rifle. I don't know exactly who carried the Winchester 
 rifle back to the boat. No one closely examined the Avound. We 
 were all afraid to touch the gun . 
 
 (Court adjourned.) 
 
 Seven of us, and with Mr. Hatton, eight, went in search of the 
 elephants. At the time Mr. Hatton was shot, five men were within 
 100 fathoms of him. 
 
 Mr. Beveridge : — The rifle gun had been handled before I came 
 up, and I do not know whether anybody had not handled the lever, 
 discharging the old cartridge and bringing up a new one. I do not 
 think any one of the men would have touched him. Half of them 
 were crying when he was shot. The rifles carried by the men were 
 not loaded. Orders were not to load their rifles unless they saw some- 
 thing to shoot at. The Winchester rifle was loaded at the time Mr. 
 Hatton went on shore. Don't know who loaded it. 
 
 Oodin (sworn by the Emaum) states : — I am boy to Tuan Hatton. 
 We paddled up the Segama. Saw a deer; it ran away ; saw another. 
 Some one said, " There is a wild bull." " Ko," said Mr. Hatton, " it's 
 an elephant." Twice he (deceased) fired at it. Tuan said, "The 
 elephant's hurt to death, let us chase it, Ibrahim." I also went. We 
 went into the forest. There was an elephant. It roared. Its leg 
 was hit. We had no guns. We went and got men and guns, and 
 all went after it — ten men. Tuan ordered Jabit to bring a lamp. 
 Five men were with Mr. Hatton. Ibrahim said, 'Don't let's go," 
 but Mr. Hatton ordered us to go on. After a time Ibrahim again 
 remonstrated. Mr. Hatton said he would rather $100 than not get 
 the elephant. Ibrahim said, "What's the good of 100 elephants if 
 we get hurt "? ' Several of us were with Mr. Hatton ; we returned.
 
 Holu the last Expedition ended. 291 
 
 Mr. Hatton was pushing aside some creepers, when his gun went off. 
 He said, " Oodiii, Oodin, sahya matee." We took hold of him. 
 Mandore said, " Call Mr . Beveridge," We called him. 
 
 Cross-examined : In an ordinary way I take care of the rifle. I 
 loaded it with fourteen cartridges. Mr. Hatton fired at white birds, 
 deer, and elephants. I didn't clean the rifle after the accident, 
 because Mr. Beveridge ordered no one to touch it. I don't know 
 how many cartridges were left in. I did not count how many shots 
 were fired. The rifle fell Avhen Mr. Hatton fell, and then the rifle 
 got mud in it. Talia took up the rifle and rested it against the tree. 
 (AVitness here shows how Mr. Hatton got hit, using the rifle to brush 
 aside a creeper. Mr. Hatton originally had two rifles, but afterwards 
 put one against a stump beside the river. Beelah was on Mr. Hatton's 
 left ; I was just behind. Kumat was immediately behind him, and 
 declared the ball passed close by him (Kumat). I saw Mr. Hatton 
 twice trying to brush the creeper aside. I was behind Kumat. ^o 
 one had ill-feelings against Mr. Hatton. There was smoke and smell 
 of powder on Mr. Hatton's shoulder when I took his head on my 
 knees. 
 
 DuRAHiM (sworn) states : — I am mandore to Mr, Hatton ; have been 
 •with him a long time. Three days ago, towards evening, men said, 
 "Tambadaw" (wild cattle). " Xo," said Mr. Hatton, "it's an ele- 
 phant." He fired and hit him twice. Elephant ran away. Mr. 
 Hatton said, " Come and hunt him, Ibrahim." We went after him. 
 We saw the elephant. He (deceased) went back to get rifles, and 
 brought two ; he put one down, and we went on ; the elephant having 
 gone, we went after him. It was growing late ; I remonstrated. We 
 got lamps and still pursued him ; again I remonstrated, and Mr. 
 Hatton agreed to come back. We were all close by. Mr. Hatton 
 was not exactly in my sight when I heard a shot, and Mr. Hatton 
 immediately culled out, " Oodin, Oodin, matee sayah ! " I rushed up. 
 Mr. Hatton's head was on Oodin's shoulders. He was murmuring, 
 "Oodin, Oodin." Mr. Beveridge was sent for. We put him in the 
 gobang, and paddled night and day until we got to Sandakan. 
 
 Cross-examined : — The first time we went after the elephant — 
 Mr. Hatton and I alone — Mr. Hatton only was armed with his 
 Winchester, and went back to get other guns and men. Does not 
 know how it is there is a filled cartridge in the rifle when examined 
 this day. Six of us were armed with rifles. On the return I ordered 
 them to take the cartridges out. All the rifles were Sniders except 
 the one Winchester. 
 
 u 2
 
 292 North Borneo. 
 
 Taha : — Three days ago was with ]\Ir. Hatton in the Segama. IMr. 
 Hatton fired at an elephant ; hit it twice, Ibrahim and Mr. Hatton 
 went after it ; afterwards we all went. Came on dark ; Ibrahim re- 
 monstrated, and at last Mr. Hatton returned. I myself saw Mr. 
 Hatton stoop, brushing the creeper with his rifle ; it exploded, and he 
 (deceased) fell. Boy (Oodin) and Drahim seized him. The gun fell. 
 Think it was Bulah took it to the boat. 
 
 Examined : — What became of the discharged cartridge case 1 — I 
 don't know ; perhaps it was some one threw it out ; it was dark — all 
 was confusion. 
 
 JuMAH relates the same tale. Was close by Mr. Hatton when he 
 stooped to get under the creeper, raising it with his rifle. The rifle- 
 ball went so close to him (Jumah) that he felt the Avind of it. He 
 does not know who touched the rifle after it fell. 
 
 PoouEN was in Mr. Beveridge's boat. Heard report of a gun ; went 
 on shore, found Mr. Hatton dead. Mr. Beveridge ordered me to take 
 the rifle back to the boat, but not to clean it. I took it to the 
 boat. I did not extract the empty cartridge ; should not know how 
 to do it. 
 
 (Court adjourned for further evidence expected daily in three boats 
 now on their way.) 
 
 March 1th. — Case resumed ; boats having arrived, it is suggested 
 that one or two of the men be called. 
 
 A piece of Mr. Hatton's singlet, showing evident signs of singing, 
 is put in evidence. 
 
 Dr. Walker states that the piece of singlet shown is distinctly 
 singed. 
 
 All the jury agree in this also. 
 
 Dr. Walker says, having heard a theory advanced that perhaps a 
 man walking in front might have discharged his gun, Dr. Walker now 
 states that he believes this to be impossible, the direction of the 
 wound being down and not up, and all the men being shorter than 
 jMr. Hatton, and that he, the doctor, is clearly of opinion it could only 
 have been a gun discharged within three inches of Mr. Hatton's breast, 
 and therefore his own. 
 
 Cross-examined : — Is clearly of opinion that such a wound would 
 cause insensibility as stated. 
 
 Ungong says he arrived on the scene behind Mr. Beveridge. Mr. 
 Beveridge told him to assist in carrying the body, and he did so. He 
 was very sorry, Mr. Hatton was dead Avhen he arrived on the scene. 
 We all cried. I was with Mr, Hatton a year. We all said, " Better
 
 How the last Expedition ended. 293 
 
 ■vre had died than this." When I arrived, the rifle was standing up 
 against a tree close by. Always understood that it was ]\Ir. Hatton's 
 own rifle that killed Mr. Hatton. Doesn't know if any one took out 
 the empty cartridge. 
 
 JUEY'S VERDICT. 
 
 Jury are of opinion that Frank Hatton came by his death from the 
 accidental discharge of his rifle on the evening of the 1st of March, 
 while returning from elejAant shooting at Sugoon Jukol, which is 
 situated about sixty miles up the Segama River, and about 160 miles 
 by water from Sandakan, and whilst he was pushing aside a vine with 
 the aid of said loaded rifle carried in his hand. 
 
 The jury much deplore the sudden death of Mr. Hatton, who, as an 
 explorer and mineralogist, had proved himself of much value to the 
 Eritish Korth Borneo Company, and the world generally, and on 
 account of his many excellent social qualities. 
 
 The jury also wish to express their admiration of the conduct of 
 Mr. Beveridge, who, under the sad circumstances of the case, behaved 
 in a most self-denying and praiseworthy manner in bringing the body 
 to Sandakan, without either he or the natives who accomjianied him 
 taking rest night or day. They also wish to express their satisfaction 
 of the conduct of the natives. 
 
 (Signed) G. D. Collinson, Foreman. 
 
 „ Alex. Cook. 
 
 „ Jas. Sampson. 
 
 „ J. M. Pardon. 
 
 „ J. McLean. 
 
 „ N. B. Wait. 
 
 „ L. E. NeubroNxVbr. 
 
 „ R. McEvEN Little. 
 S. W. Allen. 
 
 ,, J. C. ROSSELL. 
 
 „ B. C. DE LiSSA. 
 
 „ Frank Gordon Wickham. 
 
 (Signed; W. B. Pryer, Coroner.
 
 294 North Borneo. 
 
 YIL 
 A POSTSCRIPT IN LONDON. 
 
 [by JOSEPH HATTON, HERBERT WARD, AND ARTHUR 
 HARINGTOX.] 
 
 A visitor — The European who last saw Frank alive — Mr. Herbert 
 Ward who is mentioned in the last diary — In Frank's room at 
 Kudat — About seven hundred miles up the Kinabatangan — 
 Frank's call at Pinungah — Talks of home — Sport — Xative 
 superstitions — Among the Tungara men — Strange pipes — 
 Poisoned arrows — " Good-bye " — Sadness and foreboding — " His 
 men loved him" — The boy Oodeen — " Koughing it" — Adven- 
 ture and adventurers — Memorials in Borneo and at home — Ex- 
 periences at Kudat — Incidents related by Col. Ilarington — Count 
 •Mongelas lost in the jungle— vSports and pastimes — Curious 
 fishinfr excursion — Memorials in Borneo and London. 
 
 AVhen I (Joseph Hatton) was in America, during 
 the autiimu of 1882 and the spring of 1883, I 
 received several letters from Mr. Herbert Ward, 
 who had been a cadet in the service of the British 
 North Borneo Company. He informed me that he 
 was the white man who last saw Frank alive on 
 his last expedition, that he possessed probably the 
 latest words he ever wrote, and that he would 
 postpone his departure from England until my return, 
 in order that he might tell me all he knew of my sou's 
 last days, and perhaps render me some service in con- 
 nection with the removal of the body from Borneo to
 
 A Postscript in London. 295 
 
 England. On my return, Mr. Ward called upon me. 
 A short but conipactlj-built young fellow, of two or 
 three and twenty, he was in appearance what one 
 might fancifully describe as " a pocket Hercules." He 
 gave me a grip of iron with a strong, large hand. His 
 face was bronzed, and he had something of the frank 
 yet nervous manner of a young sailor just home from 
 long voyaging in distant seas. In the course of con- 
 versation I found that he had spent most of his early 
 life as a sailor before the mast. He had run away 
 from school and taken to the sea, had worked his 
 way to the position of an A.B. seaman, had seen life 
 in the Australian bush and in the California mines, 
 had lived with the Maories, had roughed it in many 
 lands ; finally presenting himself to the Bornean au- 
 thorities, had worked under them for some months; and 
 on his first expedition — a mission to Pinungah — had 
 met ray son ; had got back to headquarters suffering 
 from a severe attack of fever, and thence had come 
 to London to recuperate before " tr34ng his fortune " 
 at home or again " seeking it " beyond the seas. In 
 spite of roughing it, and often under the most de- 
 moralizmg circumstances, Mr. Ward was a gentleman 
 in appearance and manners. His early training at 
 home and at Mill Hill College in association witli 
 cultivated people had lost none of its influence upon 
 what I should judge to be a naturally refined nature. 
 I soon found myself taking a deep interest in the 
 young fellow and his prospects, an interest which grew 
 with increasing knowledge of him ; and among my 
 miscellaneous letters from many parts of the world 
 I always now look forward witli pleasure to his des- 
 patches from the Congo, where lie is fighting his way, 
 I hope, to an influential position under the auspices of
 
 296 
 
 N^orth Borneo. 
 
 the discoverer of Lmngstone and the founder of the 
 Congo Free State, Mr. H. M. Stanley. But we will 
 now go back to 11:3^ first acquaintance with Mr. Ward. 
 
 II, 
 
 " You knew my son ; he has a note in his last diary 
 referring to you. I am very glad to see you." 
 
 MR. HKEBEKT WARD. 
 
 "Thank you; I would have left England again 
 before this, but for the satisfaction of seeing you, 
 in case I might be of any service to Mr. Frank Hat- 
 ton's parents, or give them any information that 
 
 might interest them."
 
 A Postscript ill London. 297 
 
 *' I appreciate your thouglitf al kindness. You are 
 tlie second of his Borneo friends who have talked to 
 me about him since his death ; and if there is a bitter 
 pang now and then in the memories you revive, there 
 is real consolation in the tributes paid to his valour and 
 simple virtues. Where did you meet him first?" 
 
 " On board the steamer Borneo on the 14th of 
 November, 1882. We had just arrived alongside the 
 Kudat wharf. On shore there was a motley crowd of 
 natives. Chinamen, and Sikhs, in their varied costumes, 
 some in very scanty attire, for it was very hot. From 
 their midst a tall, handsome young fellow stepped out, 
 and came aboard. He looked ill, but I noted his wiry 
 frame and distinguished manner. Mr. Edwards intro- 
 duced him to me as Mr. Frank Hatton, the company's 
 scientific explorer. I had already heard of him at 
 Singapore and on board the steamer. He had a great 
 reputation for personal courage, was very popular with 
 the officials, had made a great hit in the way of con- 
 trolling natives, and his latest expedition was men- 
 tioned as a very plucky business. I was, therefore, 
 much interested in him. When Edwards introduced 
 me, Mr. Hatton — " 
 
 " Call him Frank," I said. " Forgive me for inter- 
 rupting you." 
 
 " Frank took me aside and asked me if I knew 
 Colonel Wilmer ; and upon my answering in the affir- 
 mative, we began to talk. In a short time we found that 
 we had both been at London colleges, and both lived in 
 the same great city of London, and that we were both 
 particularly familiar with Regent's Park, the Zoo, 
 Ilampstead, and all about there. lie said he was ill, 
 had been laid up since liis last expedition with jungle
 
 298 • N'ortk Borneo. 
 
 fever, and that he was about to proceed to Singapore, 
 and would go out on the Borneo's return, to restore 
 his health, and prepare for his next journey. He spoke 
 very modestly about his work, in reply to some ques- 
 tions I asked, and turned them off to give me some 
 valuable hints as to my mode of living, in view of the 
 danger of jungle fever, which was prevalent among 
 Europeans whose duties took them into the interior. 
 After breakfast Frank took me ashore, and introduced 
 me to Mr. Treacher, the governor, who received 
 me most kindly, and made arrangements for my 
 accommodation at the Treasury, houses at that time 
 being very few and far between. I spent the day with 
 Frank, helping him to pack, and talking about London, 
 He sjDoke very affectionately of you and his mother, 
 and showed me all jowy pictures." 
 
 " What was his room like ? " 
 
 " It was a large room, and had a very miscellaneous 
 appearance. There were one or two tin cases, with 
 things half packed ; his revolvers hung on his bedstead; 
 there were some shelves with bottles of chemicals on 
 them, a few mineral specimens, some note-books, a 
 rifle, and other things. His pistols hung on the bed- 
 post, over which was drawn a large mosquito-net. 
 There were letters and papers scattered around, straps, 
 and everything that denoted overhauling things and 
 packing. He said he was a good deal played out, but 
 had great hopes of his next expedition, though he said 
 the native reports of minerals were, as a rule, fables, 
 and the difficulties of exploration great beyond descrip- 
 tion, the rivers being so often in a state of overflow. 
 He was very kind to me, as he seemed to be to every- 
 body, and his advice was most useful to me. The
 
 A Postscript in London. 299 
 
 next morning everybody mustered on the wharf to say 
 adieu to the Borneo. Very friendly was the leave- 
 taking with Frank. I grasped his hand warmly, for I 
 had already got to like as well as to admire him ; and 
 I little thought that our next meeting would be far 
 away in the interior — in the heart, in fact, of the Sabali 
 country, beyond the ken of white men." 
 
 " Now, I want you, if you will, to dictate to a short- 
 hand writer the account of your second meeting with 
 Frank, your last meeting, with all the details of it that 
 you can remember; and then, when I have read it, we 
 will talk again about our dear Frank — again and often, 
 1 hope." 
 
 " Yes," he said, " I will do what you suggest." 
 He did, and two days afterwards handed me the 
 following interesting and touching narrative, all the 
 more pathetic that the united ages of the two brave 
 young fellows was not more than forty-four ; Ward, a 
 sturdy, squarely-built, thick-set youngster, about the 
 height of Stanley, and with something of his calm ex- 
 pression of face ; Frank, close on six feet, a head taller 
 than any of his native followers, lithe, supple of limb, 
 and with a far-away look in his eyes. " And I admired 
 him so much," said Ward ; " envied him, but not to 
 desire his injury, of course ; envied his acquirements, his 
 knowledge, his skill ; thought what a great man he 
 would be some day, and wondered what would become 
 of me ; for though he was so modest and unostentatious, 
 lie had a commanding way, and talked with authority, 
 as you may say ; and what struck me Avas the quiet, 
 uncomplaining style in which he took hardships, just 
 as if he had been used to camping out and eating rice 
 all his life."
 
 loo N^ortJi Borneo. 
 
 HI. 
 
 But here is tlie transcription of the shortliand notes: — 
 " Six months elapsed, and I was at Penungah — a 
 little native settlement, hitherto, I believe, unvisited — 
 about 700 miles up the Kinabatangan river. I was 
 lying in my hammock about suTidown, on the 29th of 
 January, 1883, feeling sick, miserable, and lonely, and 
 wondering how long it would be before I should again 
 hear my own language spoken. All around was very 
 calm and quiet ; the sky was clear, and hardly a 
 sound was to be heard. In front of my rude hut the 
 sun was setting in all its glory behind the thickly 
 wooded hills that intervened between Pinungah and 
 Kimanis. To the eastward the sharp outline of the 
 mountain of Impak stood in bold relief. My men, 
 some fifteen Brunei Malays (dubbed Mata-matas by 
 the Bornean officials in their youthful pride), were 
 lying idly upon the verandah of their rough barracks. 
 Suddenly I heard some voices coming nearer, and, 
 looking up, I saw two Tumbunwahs approaching from 
 the river. They came straight towards me, sat down, 
 and looked as if they had something to say. 
 
 "I called Hassan, my sergeant, to interpret for me 
 into Malay; and, owing to my limited knowledge of 
 that language, I had some difficulty in understanding 
 their mission. I at last gathered that two days down 
 the river was an orang-jputili, or white man, with two 
 canoes, plenty of men, and a large flag. 
 
 " This was news indeed. I grew excited, and won- 
 dered who could possibly be the visitor. My in- 
 formants, however, were totally unacquainted with 
 details. I had to content myself with looking longingly
 
 A Postscript in London. 301 
 
 in the distance, and wishing heartily for the time when 
 this unknown should arrive. 
 
 " I interrogated Hassan as to the white man's name, 
 but could get no further information than that the 
 stranger had thirty men and two gobangs, and that 
 he spoke Malay very fluently. I wondered what 
 could possibly bring him away thus far into the un- 
 known interior. I had never in my dreams even 
 expected a visitor, and had almost come to the con- 
 clusion that I had seen a white man for the last time, 
 so ill was I, and so far from all ideas of civilization. 
 
 " No sleep, no food could I take for the next two 
 days. I was in feverish excitement, and towards the 
 close of the second day I stationed myself upon the 
 highest point, my men around me, with their guns 
 ready to. fire a salute of welcome. By-and-by, in 
 the dim distance, I could hear shouts, and see three 
 or four small canoes approaching rapidly against the 
 stream. My excitement was intense, and at last I was 
 rewarded by seeing a large prahu slowly turn the bend 
 of the river, manned by some twenty orang-diiangy or 
 paddlers, who occupied the fore-part of the canoe. 
 Amidships a roof of leaves, and astern stood the form 
 of my unknown visitor, bareheaded, and in white. I 
 gave the word, " Fire ! " and never was there such 
 a row in Pinuno;ali before. " Bano: ! bano^ ! " at 
 irregular intervals was kept up during the quarter of 
 ;iu hour it took for the prahu to arrive alongside the 
 ];iiiding-place. There stepping lightly ashore was 
 Frank Hatton once more ; and again we grasped 
 hands, this time with an indescribable feeling of 
 thankfulness. He looked well and strong, and was 
 in high spirits.
 
 302 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 " We walked together up tlie hill, and entered my 
 humble dwelling, which consisted of a roof and a floor 
 of split bamboos, built on piles. Having no chairs, 
 we sat together upon the hammock, and we each 
 seemed to have so much to say that we found a diffi- 
 culty in conversing at all. 
 
 " The rest of that evening we spent in talking over 
 our homes and our respective relations, and conjec- 
 turing together what our friends far away at home 
 were then doing ; whether it was fine weather in the 
 old country or not ; and many other things like that. 
 We opened a bottle of wine from my stores, and drank 
 to each other's healths ; we smoked cigarettes, and 
 talked far into the night. Frank then ordered his 
 hammock to be prepared, and we turned in ; but not 
 to sleep. We each had too many questions to ask of 
 one another. We would both be silent for a few 
 minutes, and I would ask some question about Sanda- 
 kan. Then silence again, and Frank would be the 
 interrogator. This was kept up till sunrise, when we 
 both dozed off for half an hour. 
 
 " We then got up, had some coffee, and were busily 
 engaged in making arrangements for a journey up 
 the Mullykup, eating diivian and langsat, smoking 
 cigarettes, and chatting gaily about the dear old mother 
 country. That night we managed to get more sleep, 
 and were up at daylight, refreshed and ready for the 
 journey upon which we were to start that morning. 
 
 " All being prepared, we got into our canoes, and 
 started away about nine o'clock from Pinungah, 
 paddling quietly against the stream for the remainder of 
 the day ; passing some beautiful scenery, wild in the 
 extreme, lovely butterflies skimming everywhere, birds
 
 A Postscript in London. 303 
 
 chirping, and tlie lesser hornbill trumpeting enthu- 
 siastically from the tops of the high trees on either 
 side of the Mullykup River. Now and then we found 
 an opportunity of having a shot at a stray deer or 
 ■palmicloh, and once or twice were startled by an iguana 
 dropping from the branches of a tree flat on its belly 
 in the mud, and scampering into the water and dis- 
 appearing. At short intervals it was necessary to 
 alight from the canoes, which had to be carried over 
 tlie rapids, whilst we wended our way over enormous 
 rocks to rejoin them higher up. 
 
 " That night at sundown we decided to halt, and 
 orders were given for a fire to be lit, and Frank's ham- 
 mock to be fixed, I preferring to sleep in my canoe, 
 out of the reach of the enormous ants which tormented 
 poor Frank all night. He happened to remark in Malay 
 to one of his attendants, ' Smiiut debaiva, nainoh 
 dlatas.' This expression, simple enough, meaning 
 ' Ants below, mosquitoes above,' in Malay was a 
 remarkably witty speech, and excited a deal of amuse- 
 ment and laughter from our Malayan followers. He 
 told me an amusing story of his man Smith. He 
 liked Smith, and tliought his repartee in this case 
 very smart, and laughed heartily as he related the 
 circumstance. In one district where they were the 
 first comers, and had no maps to guide them, Frank said, 
 ' Smith, we must name some of these places for our 
 cliarts, supposing we call this spot Hatton Garden ? ' 
 Smith waited a little time without replying, and tlien 
 said, 'Well, Mr. 'Atton, if you calls that 'Atton 
 Garden — what do you say to calling this Smitlifield ? ' 
 
 " Our meal that nightwas simple in the extreme, con- 
 sisting ot" a pot of tea, hard-boiled i-'iX,^^, Avhile our men
 
 304 North Borneo. 
 
 were filling themselves with rice. We had so much to talk 
 about that we did not think of the meagreness of our 
 fare, but, on tbe contrary, thoroughly enjoyed it. As it 
 grew dark we had a large fire made, and posted sen- 
 tinels for the night, it being rumoured among the 
 natives that there ivas a tribe who lived in the jungle 
 close by of a hostile and warlike character. I noticed 
 when it was quite dark that two or three of Frank's 
 men kept dropping a kind of powder into the fire, and 
 asking him what it meant and what the powder was, 
 he said his natives were very superstitious, and were 
 afraid of ghosts. The powder which they threw into 
 the fire was, he said, composed of bits of worsted, 
 the bark of the upas-tree, and an occasional glass 
 bead. This they believed pleased the deity, who in 
 return for this attention kept watch over them through 
 the night, to protect them from the attack of the 
 spirits of their departed relatives. This led to Frank 
 telling me many interesting things about the super- 
 stitious fears of the natives. The fitful firelight and 
 the intense outer darkness made the stories all the 
 more impressive. My visitor and fellow-countryman 
 also taught me many Malay words, and gave me many 
 valuable hints in regard to the language, all of which 
 1 thoroughly remember to this day. We finally retired 
 to our respective sleeping-places and fell asleep. 
 
 " Next morning at daylight we were up again, and in 
 half an hour were once more battling our way against 
 the swift current. The rapids now became more fre- 
 quent, and during the whole of that day we did not, 
 I think, cover more than three miles. AVe shot a 
 monkey, had one canoe upset, and were both stung 
 very much by mosquitoes. The travelling was rough
 
 wWim 
 
 " GOOD-BYE TILL WE MEET AGAIN IN LONDON." 
 Drawn hy W. H. ilar<;utson, from a skcttli by Herbert V/ard. 
 
 To face page 305.
 
 A Postscript ill London. 305 
 
 and dangerous, and I was very ill,* the fever still 
 clinging to me ; and Frank persuaded me to go back to 
 Pinungah, telling me he would return again in a few 
 days. I took an affectionate leave of him, and warned 
 him to be careful of his head, reminding him that he 
 was going close to the tribe who massacred and decapi- 
 tated poor AVitti. ' Keep your powder dry,' I said. 
 He replied with a smile that he would be all right, and 
 so we parted. I started on my homeward journey. 
 Things went smoothly with me till we approached the 
 biggest of the rapids, which had a fall of about seven 
 feet, and there my boat came to grief, and I had a 
 narrow escape of being drowned, but got back eventu- 
 ally to Raigson house and slept there ; the next day, 
 in one of his canoes, and with Usof's help as navigator, 
 reached Pinungah once more, and was laid up once 
 more, my immersion in the river proving an additional 
 obstruction to my recovery. 
 
 " Frank's mission among the Tungara people was I 
 think in furtherance of his search for minerals. On 
 this subject, however, he was reticent, not evidently 
 caring to talk about his discoveries or his hopes in 
 that direction, though he once or twice mentioned 
 the tremendous difficulties in the way of explora- 
 tion that he encountered in the dense jungle, the 
 constant rains, and the swollen rivers. He brought 
 from the Tungura people a collection of strange, 
 diminutive opium pipes, with red stems and quaint 
 carvings, the work of the Tungara men ; to me one of 
 the greatest curiosities was a ' peluru sumpitan,' or 
 ])oisoned arrow case, used by the very tribe of Subluts 
 that murdered and beheaded Witti. 
 
 '• Unfortunately on his return to me one of his go- 
 
 X
 
 3o6 North Borneo. 
 
 • 
 bangs had been smashed up on the very same bit of 
 
 rock or snag* where I had come to grief, and he was a 
 good deal worried at the loss of his azimuth, com- 
 passes, aneroids, and other instruments. He stayed 
 four days with me, during which time, when he was 
 not busy with his diary and his boats, we arranged 
 pleasant little excursions to be made together on our 
 return home to England, which we expected would be 
 in about six months. Frank ate durian the whole day, 
 and showed me during that time all his little curiosi- 
 ties, his note-books and portraits, one of which was 
 the picture of a young lady (not one of his two sisters), 
 of whom, however, he said nothing. 
 
 "At last, Frank's arrangements being quite com- 
 pleted, the date was fixed for his departure, to inves- 
 tigate the Segama River on the 14th of February. He 
 collected a few things together, w^hich he said he would 
 not require upon that journey, and asked me to take 
 care of them and send them down to Sandakan at the 
 first opportunity. Then came the time for our parting, 
 and we walked together sadly down the hill to the 
 boats, and stood for some minutes grasping hands and 
 wishing each other good-bye. His last words to me 
 were, * Good-bye, old chap, till we meet again in 
 London ! We'll have jolly times then.' His boat 
 pushed off, and he glided slowly with the stream. 
 
 " As I stood there, watching him disappear round the 
 bend in the distance, a feeling of sadness and a strange 
 foreboding came over me, such a feeling that I had 
 never had before, and I wondered how long it would 
 be before I once again would see him. I was very 
 sad as I walked up the hill to the hut. I rested many 
 times, and felt a choking sensation in my throat. I,
 
 
 *r 
 
 
 
 1 ;-/ 
 
 <;' 
 
 ?; p.
 
 A Postsci'ipt in London. 307 
 
 however, lay down in my hammock and spent the 
 remainder of that night gazing hstlessly at the sky, 
 feehng down-hearted and thoroughly miserable ; till, 
 all at once, 1 heard the splash of a canoe, and, jumping 
 up, found that Bongsu had just arrived with his two 
 sons. They approached me in an agitated manner, 
 and told me in Malay that they had dived in the river 
 where Frank's canoe was upset, and they showed me 
 a prismatic compass and a flat compass, and an aneroid 
 which they had recovered from the bottom of the river. 
 I immediately whistled up my men, and gave orders to 
 Hassan, my corporal, to immediately start off, and try 
 and overtake Frank and give him these things, which 
 I knew were a serious loss to him. Half an hour 
 afterwards all was quiet again, and Hassan was well 
 on his way down the river. 
 
 " On the third day Hassan returned, and brought 
 me a note, upon which was written, ' 4 a.m. — Dear 
 Ward, — Thanks for the things, but I fear they are 
 sadly damaged.' I took this note, folded it carefully, 
 and stowed it away. Everything was miserable for 
 the next week. I was sad, ill, and down-hearted. 
 I wanted to return to Sandakan, but feared to leave 
 the place on account of rumours of a band of despe- 
 radoes from a neighbouring tribe coming up and 
 docking off our heads. 
 
 " Whilst in this uncertain state of mind, a man arrived 
 at Pinungah, whom I recognized, and who proved 
 afterwards to have been one of Frank's followers. He 
 was in a terrible state of excitement, and spoke so 
 quickly I was unable to understand a single word he 
 said. At last by the aid of Hassan,' I was told that 
 
 1 Tliis Sergeant llaiisan (wlio is again uicntioncJ in the succeed- 
 
 X 2
 
 3o8 NortJi Borneo. 
 
 poor Frank was dead, and was made acquainted with 
 the sad details of his sad accident. I then made up 
 my mind, at all hazards, to try and return as soon as 
 possible, and about a month afterwards I was on my 
 way down the river to Sandakan, prostrated with the 
 jungle fever. I then found that the tale was only too 
 true." 
 
 ing cliapter) has since been murdered. The story is told in the 
 North Borneo Herald of September 1st, 1884 : — 
 
 " While a party, including the Governor, the Eesident and others 
 was being hospitably entertained at dinner by Captain Hamlin on 
 board the s.s. Amatista of Hongkong, a sudden check was given to 
 the prevailing gaiety by the arrival on board of one of the crew of a 
 boat which had, a few weeks before, left Sandakan, taking Sergeant 
 Hassan back to his post at Pinungah in the Upper Kinabatangan. 
 The lad reported that Sergeant Hassan had found fault with and 
 struck one of the mea called Tali, who cried and merely said, ' Trima 
 kasih, Bapa Hassan.' — ' Thank you, father Hassan.' During the 
 night, however, he seized his rifle, and aided by two others of the 
 crew, shot Hassan and Limbang, who had gone to his assistance, and 
 decamped, the narrator of the sad incident having secured his own 
 safety by taking to the water and making for the jungle. It is 
 known that Sergeant Hassan had $300 of his own Avith him be- 
 sides other property, and it is probable, therefore, that cupidity was 
 added to the thirst for revenge so often found in Malays and caused 
 the perpetration of the crime. None of the men concerned are natives 
 of the river, nor indeed of jSTorth Borneo, so that the sad event has no 
 political significance whatever. Sergeant Hassan had been for many 
 months in charge of the Upper Kinabatangan district and had ac- 
 quired most valuable information concerning the resources of that 
 rich province, especially as to certain valuable birds'-nests caves. 
 Unfortunately, as he could not write, this is all lost with him, and 
 this loss will be much felt by Mr. D. D. Daly, who is leading an ex- 
 pedition of exploration, and who has relied to a great extent on the 
 co-operation of the sergeant, who was a man of very considerable in- 
 telligence. A reward of §100 has been offered by the Government 
 for the apprehension of the murderers. [The assassins were eventually 
 captured au.l punished J
 
 A Postscript in London. 309 
 
 IV. 
 
 " You said Frank was reticent as to liis mission on 
 the Segama ? ' ' 
 
 " Yes, but hopeful, evidently." 
 " Did he speak of a possible gold find ? " 
 " He did not talk much of the business of his 
 expedition ; he examined the banks of the river and 
 the bed whenever he could with great care, and regretted 
 that it was the rainy season. He spoke once of the* 
 great mineral promise of the Kina Balu and Kmorara 
 country. He talked more of London than of Borneo, 
 though he spoke of an intended visit to Java and Siam. 
 I heard from others more of his expeditions than from 
 himself ; but he said a little opium-pipe that he bought 
 from the Tungara men nearly cost him his life. He 
 was remarkably cool-headed, I thought, and brave, and 
 his men loved him. Passing one of the rapids, I saw 
 his boat slue round towards a jutting rock. I saw him 
 bend down and speak to one of his men, the strongest 
 and biggest of them. The man leaped from the boat, 
 clung to the rock, and received the shock of the collision 
 with his feet, and saved the boat. He had been upset 
 himself more than once or twice on his river expeditions. 
 You see, nobody knew what there was to encounter in 
 the way of currents, cataracts, floating timber, snags." 
 " How was he dressed ? " 
 
 " In the boat he wore a light shirt, trousers, and 
 boots. Occasionally when resting he wore only a 
 sarong; but he rarely rested; he worked too hard. 
 He had an English cricketing cap on his head ; but 
 when I caught my first glimpse of him coming down 
 the river he was bareheaded, and all in white, so
 
 3IO North Borneo. 
 
 far as I could sec, and it was a figure that impressed 
 nie. He was tall, and seemed even taller than he 
 was, no doubt because the natives, as a rule, are 
 short. His boy, Oodeen, was very devoted to him. 
 He remained in my service for some time after Frank's 
 death, and would cry and moan whenever Tuan Hatton 
 was mentioned. He was little better than a wild boy 
 of the woods when Frank had him first, and used to 
 sleep up in trees. He had been a slave ; had sought and 
 obtained Frank's protection, and had been with him for 
 more than a year. I heard of him last in service at 
 Singapore, but about to return to Borneo. So far as 
 I could understand from him and others, Frank trod 
 upon a tree stump, when his rifle exploded ; the tree 
 was quite rotten, and crumbled under his foot, which 
 made him stumble at the moment he was pushing 
 through the vines or rattans that obstruct you all the 
 time in the forest jungle. It was a brave thing to 
 follow up the elephant as he did, but he had great 
 confidence in his Winchester, and was a capital 
 shot. He was most careful in the management of his 
 weapon, and seemed very thoughtful in all he did, 
 having, as it seemed to me, a high sense of his respon- 
 sibility ; and what he did was done as if he had had 
 years of experience, and, indeed, as if he were a man 
 in years and knowledge, and yet I never met any one 
 so modest with it all, so unassuming and so cheerful, 
 and so willing to give another the benefit of his expe- 
 rience. I had roughed it since I was fifteen, on sea 
 and on land, and under all sorts of circumstances, and 
 without friends, and therefore w^as accustomed to 
 tinned food, to no food at all, and to sleeping out in 
 all weathers, more especially when I was in Australia ;
 
 A Postscript in London. 3 1 1 
 
 but Frank had, I knew, until he went to Borneo, been 
 accustomed to the kixuries of Hfe, and if he had scam- 
 pered through Europe, it had been with money in his 
 pocket and all paths made easy ; therefore I was asto- 
 nished that he should take this new life of roughing it 
 with perfect content, as if he had been accustomed to 
 it as I had. He took the hardships of it calmly, and 
 was never ruffled, made the best of everythiug, and was 
 always in a good temper. He seemed to be looking 
 ahead, and I think he expected great things of this 
 trip, notwithstanding that, as I said before, the rainy 
 season put such great obstacles in his way." 
 
 *' Let us for a moment get back to Pinungah," I said, 
 *' his notes about it are so brief." 
 
 *' He wrote an account of Pinungah and made some 
 rough sketches." 
 
 " Had he more than one note-book then ? " 
 
 " Yes, a small one and a larger one." 
 
 " Did he look well and strong ? " 
 
 *' When I first saw him he was ill from fever and 
 hard work, and looked ill ; therefore to me, when I saw 
 him next, he seemed very well indeed, and looked 
 strong and healthy. He was far better in that respect 
 than I was, a great deal more cheerful and contented. 
 As I said before, nothing came amiss to him, either in 
 the way of bad food or personal hardships. I can see 
 him now, for instance, eating durian — a filthy fruit to 
 my taste. He would sit down and make a meal of it, 
 flinging the rind around him, he sitting in a ring of it 
 and laughing when any one tried to approach him, 
 because when we did so, we had to dodge the spikes 
 and prickles of the rind or husks."
 
 12 
 
 North Borneo. 
 
 V. 
 
 Among Frank's other friends (including Mr. 
 Everett, late Resident at Pappar, and now working 
 on his own account an important mineral concession 
 from the Company) I have h^d some interesting con- 
 versations with Lieut. -Colonel Harington, of the 
 Egyptian gendarm^erie at Cairo. 
 
 ARTHUR IIAUIXOTOX. 
 
 "I first met Frank," he writes, "at the Company's 
 offices in Old Broad Street, before he started for Borneo. 
 He and Dr. Walker were then arranging for their 
 departure. I thought Frank very young for the work. 
 I next heard of him at Singapore as an enthusiastic
 
 A Postscript in London. 
 
 o'o 
 
 billiard-player. He was one of those young fellows 
 M'ho would go in earnestly for anything that interested 
 them. I expect he and Walker were glad to stretch 
 their les^s around a billiard-table after their confinement 
 on board ship. I renewed my acquaintance with 
 Frank later at Labuan. We shared rooms in a crazy 
 old bungalow. Mr. Cook, the Company's treasurer, 
 lived in the same house, Frank was wdiat we old Indians 
 call ' a griffin,' and accepted what we considered 
 wretched accommodation as first-rate ; though I think 
 in his heart he was a little disappointed. I was 
 naturally drawn more towards him than to the other 
 members of our society ; we had more in common to 
 talk about — England, London, and the world — and, 
 above all things, our mutual taste for music. We used 
 to discuss the plays and the operas we had seen and 
 heard. Frank used to rave about Irving, and we had 
 many a discussion about acting. I remember 
 making him laugh very much at my experience 
 of The Bells J and how I was so horrified at the terrible 
 reality of the acting that I had to go to my club and 
 imbibe a strong drink before I ventured to go to bed. 
 The play I liked best was The Lyons Mail. We often 
 went to Dr. Leys', the British Governor's, and we would 
 play the piano at Government House and sing. One 
 particularly favourite piece of mine that Frank played 
 was a march in F. — I think Mendelssohn — 
 Like all youngsters, Frank was burning for 
 sport. We paid a visit to Coal Point, and in the 
 evening went to shoot grunters. Frank turned out 
 very much a la rhasxpiir — brown canvas trousers, and a 
 long hunting-knife in his belt. I named him that night 
 ' the bushranger,' a name which stuck to him a
 
 314 North Borneo. 
 
 good deal. Frank, I remember, shot during his 
 rambles several fine specimens of kingfishers. There 
 are, I believe, thirteen specimens of the kingfisher 
 tribe in Borneo — some really gorgeous in plumage. 
 Frank and I made many sporting expeditions about 
 the island, and had some good shooting. I remember 
 cautioning him about his Winchester — a rifle that is 
 an awkward customer at times. You do not always 
 know when it is loaded or not. A useful weapon in 
 a tight place, no doubt. Witti carried a Winchester. 
 I liked Witti. He was a gentleman — a little odd, 
 perhaps, but a fine fellow. He and Frank got along 
 well. 
 
 " You ask me to give you some details of our life at 
 Kudat, and any special incidents of travel or sport. 
 Of the many incidents in our life at Kudat, one of the 
 most amusing — though at one time it seemed very 
 serious — was the loss in the bush of Count Montgelas. 
 He had come out to Borneo ' globe-trotting,' and was 
 staying at Kudat, preparatory to a trip to Sandakan 
 and elsewhere. We were a large party at Kudat at 
 that time, as the Company's yacht, Leila, was in har- 
 bour with Mr. Treacher, Governor of Sabah, Major 
 Papillon, E/.E. (a friend of his), and Mr. Du Boulay, 
 private secretary, on board. We had all been bidden 
 to a feast on board the Leila that evening. During the 
 afternoon several of us had gone out in different 
 directions for the evening ' crawl.' Montgelas was one 
 who went out ' gunning.' We all assembled to dress 
 for dinner, and ordered our boat to be in readiness to 
 take us off to the yacht, which was anchored some 
 quarter of a mile off in the bay. On calling the roll 
 before dinner, Montgelas was reported absent — his
 
 A Postscript in Lundoii. 315 
 
 servant saying the ' Tuan ' hadn't come in. Just then 
 we heard a report of a gun in the bush near, and some 
 one said, ' There he is.' So we decided to go on board, 
 and to send the boat back for him, telUng his servant 
 to make him ' hurry up.' On arriving on board, Mr. 
 Treacher waited a while and then decided to sit down 
 to dinner. To our surprise Montgelas, after some 
 time, didn't appear, and on sending off to the shore 
 we were told he hadn't come in. This sounded serious — 
 so finishing dinner as rapidly as possible, we all went 
 on shore, and learning that no signs of him were to be 
 found, we organized a search expedition. I selected a 
 party of Sikhs, picking out all the ^hil'arrics (men that 
 knew the bush), dividing it into two parties: one to go 
 along the jungle-path that runs to the point at the 
 coast from Kudat, and the other to go along the sea- 
 l^each to the point, where the parties were to meet for 
 further action ; with the Sikhs I also told off some of the 
 Malay police. Gueritz and some others went with one 
 party by the jungle-path, Frank Hatton and I by the sea- 
 Ijeach with the other. We arranged a few signals, viz. by 
 firing a certain number of shots from a rifle. Oif went 
 the two parties, and after a sharp walk, stopping every 
 now and then to yell in concert, ' Montgelas ! ' we, the 
 beach party, heard three shots fired, signifying that 
 a trail or news had been found. We doubled on, 
 rounded the point, and entered the bush by the jungle- 
 path, and soon came to the spot where Gueritz had 
 fired the three signal shots. Here we found that a 
 reply had been heard from the bush on their left to 
 their shouts. Taking the trail from the right, we 
 all shouted 'Montgelas,' and to our joy heard a faint 
 answering shout. ' He's moved,' they said, as the
 
 o 
 
 1 6 North Borneo. 
 
 voice sounded further off than the first answer. I then 
 fired a single shot, which was answered from the 
 direction in the bush in which the shout had come. 
 On this we divided again and skirmished through the 
 bush — Gueritz going to tlie left, Frank Hatton and I 
 to the right. It was pitch dark, and I cautioned 
 every one not to lose themselves. Frank and I at last 
 got through the bush and emerged on the sea-shore 
 beyond the point. We again shouted and heard a 
 faint reply. Then I divided our little party, sending 
 Frank into the bush by a path nsed by the wood- 
 cutters, while I went further up the coast. to another 
 path I knew of. Here I entered the bush, penetrating 
 so far in that I made sure of coming up with Montgelas, 
 as I had had an answering shout, when to my disgust 
 I came on an impassable swamp. After several in- 
 effectual attempts to cross, and finding it impossible to 
 get round it, I decided to return and try another place, 
 when I found that what I had cautioned the others 
 about had happened to me. 1 icas lost. In trying to 
 cross the swamp we had left our pathway and could 
 not find it. The bush in Borneo is not only extremely 
 dense, but the trees grow so high that the sky is hidden 
 from view in many places, and just where we were 
 lost the trees were gigantic. As ill-luck would have it, 
 there was no moon, and we had nothing to guide us. 
 Of course in our hurry we had left our compasses 
 behind, though I had one fastened to the belt I always 
 wore in the bush, but to-night I had come out in a 
 pair of white trowsers, straight from dinner, and had 
 forgotten my belt. I had only one thing to guide me 
 by — the svximp, which I knew lay towards the west; 
 at least it did as I approached it from the sea-shore,
 
 A Postscript in London. 317 
 
 l)ut in my attempts at trying to get round it, I had 
 probably changed my position, and it might only serve 
 to mislead me. I, however, determined to try, and 
 assuming that it icas to the west, and therefore by 
 keeping my riglit hand towards it I should have my 
 head turned souths a direction which would take me 
 towards the beach. I extended my few Sikhs //'0?/i the 
 ri'tjht, ordering each man to keep within speaking 
 distance of the man on his right, and to keep a bright 
 look-out. We had brought several lanterns and a 
 supply of candles. I gave the word ' march,' and on we 
 plunged. Fortune favoured us, for after a desperate 
 scramble through the bush I came on a tree that looked 
 familiar, and found we had struck a path that led 
 to the beach. I was pretty well familiar with the bush, 
 liaving walked round it and through it in my evening 
 and morning walks many a weary time. It was then 
 close on 2 a.m. On returning to the beach, I marched 
 round to the point, entering the bush by the large 
 jungle-path, and from there returned to Kudat, as I 
 could hear nothing of the other parties, both myself 
 and men being quite done up, having been on foot for 
 over four hours. On getting back to the station I 
 found all the others had come in, but without find- 
 ing any trace of Montgelas. Frank had had an 
 adventure much the same as mine, having missed his 
 way and been lost for some little time ; however, he 
 was nearer the main bush-path, and soon got himself 
 and men extricated. We decided to go out at dawn, 
 and gave orders for a general parade of all hands to 
 regularly beat out the bush, as we began to think 
 .Montgelas must be wounded. Accordingly at dawn Ave 
 marshalled our forces and entered the bujili, but had
 
 3i8 North Borneo. 
 
 hardly gone a hundred yards when a loud hurrah and 
 ' Here he is !' announced the lost one's return, A 
 grinning, dancing mata-mata of the Kudat police pro- 
 claimed himself his discoverer — the facts being that as 
 soon as it was light enough Montgelas had headed for 
 the south, and would have been back at the station in 
 a few minutes when we met him. It appears that he 
 had wounded a deer shortly before sunset, and for- 
 getting the time, had followed it across the swamp. 
 Darkness came on in the rapid way it does in the 
 tropics, and before he could get back across the swamp 
 it was pitch dark, and he was done. The shot we 
 heard before dinner was not fired by him. 
 
 " He could hear us distinctly when we were searching 
 for him, but could not reach us in the darkness and the 
 thick bush. The more he tried to reach us the further 
 he seemed to get away from us, and finally he made up 
 his mind to wait for daylight. He passed a miserable 
 night — devoured by mosquitoes. 
 
 " We gave him a jorum of quinine and some cham- 
 pagne, and after a sleep and a tub he was none the 
 worse for his night's adventure. 
 
 " It was a lesson to all of us not to go too far into the 
 bush in the late afternoon, also * the luise man taJceth 
 a compass into the hush.' 
 
 " The mata-mata who met the count was for days a 
 hero in our small community at Kudat, and we often 
 saw and heard him relating and describing ' how he 
 found Montgelas.' " 
 
 " During our stay at Kudat we organized a fishing trip 
 up the Bongon River, which runs into the Bay of Kudat 
 in Marudu Bay. H.M.S. Fly was in harbour at Kudat, 
 and her captain and several of her officers took part
 
 A Postscript in London. 319 
 
 in the sport. The arrangements for the fishing were 
 all carried out under the orders of Mr. Gueritz, 
 Assistant Resident at Kudat, who had had experience 
 of this sort of fishing when he was in Sarawak, in the 
 service of Rajah Brooke. 
 
 " The plan of operations is as follows : — A certain 
 number of natives collect a sufficient quantity of tahali 
 root, a shrub that grows in the jungle. This root on 
 being beaten emits a thick milky juice, highly poisonous 
 and stupefying. On the day fixed for the fishing, at 
 about half an hour before full high water, the river to 
 be fished is staked across a short distance from its 
 mouth with the close-made fishing-stakes used by the 
 natives. These stakes entirely prevent any fish passing. 
 The fish having gone up stream with the tide are thus 
 cooped up in the river and cannot get out into the sea. 
 A couple of canoes, each with a native on board, go up 
 stream as far as is considered the proper place for 
 placing the poison in the stream. The two canoes are 
 pretty full of ' tabah ' juice, having had it beaten out 
 ready beforehand. In the meantime the sportsmen 
 assemble on the stream some couple of hundred yards 
 or so below the two canoes containing the tabah juice — 
 each sportsman armed with a fish-spear in his canoe. 
 The canoes are steered and propelled by a native in the 
 stern. Two or three spare fish-spears are placed in 
 each canoe in case of need. All being ready, the signal 
 to commence is given, and the natives in the two canoes 
 begin swaying sideways, rolling the canoes from side to 
 side, singing a kind of chant, the other natives joining 
 in. By degrees the canoes gradually fill with water, 
 and at last turn over, sending the tabah juice into the 
 btreani, the natives recoverino- their canues when the
 
 320 North Borneo. 
 
 juice lias all disappeared. Then every one is on the 
 look-out. The tahali juice soon takes eifect, and fish of 
 all sorts and sizes are seen struggling on the surface of 
 the water, half stupefied by the tabah poison. Then it 
 is a case of every man for himself — helped by his 
 paddler, who, under his directions, steers for the fish, 
 which are speared in succession with the sharp-pointed 
 fish-spears. To a beginner it is no easy job to stand 
 up in the little canoe, direct its movements, and finally 
 strike the fish. Many a time, in his eagerness, a man 
 topples over into the stream amidst the laughter of the 
 others, and to the huge delight of the natives at seeing 
 a TuAN go floundering into the stream. The Malay is 
 a laughter-loving, jovial soul, and a day's tabah fishing 
 to him is an endless amusement. 
 
 " We started away at daylight. Besides the officers 
 of the Fhj and two of her boats with blue jackets, and 
 tiSin, our party consisted of Mr. Gueritz, Mr. Hewitt, 
 Frank Hatton, and myself. We sent on canoes for 
 the different sportsmen. Arriving at the river's mouth, 
 we found that it was close on high water, and the 
 closing in of the river with stakes just commencing. 
 The stakes are beautifully made, resembling the ' chick 
 blind ' of India in appearance and material. Hewett, 
 Frank, and I had had a little practice at fish-spearing 
 in the shoal waters at Kudat. One has to strike very 
 straight, otherwise the spear glides off the slippery 
 hard skin of the fish, and unless the spear is very 
 sharp it takes a sharp stroke to j^ro^z^/ the fish. 
 
 " All being ready, and each man on board his canoe, 
 the signal was given to let out the tabah. The Malays 
 were quite as eager and excited as we were, and soon 
 the fishing chant commenced, and after a few minutes
 
 A Postscript in London. 321 
 
 a louder sliout announced the capsizing of the poison- 
 laden canoes, and the commencement of the sport. 
 
 "The river, unfortunately, wound about a good deal, 
 and we were unable to see the ceremony of poisoning 
 the river, which took place above the bend of the 
 river which closed the reach we were in. 
 
 " Presently a sliout. announced the appearance of the 
 first ' drunken ' fish, and in a moment everything was 
 wild excitement. Right and left and everywhere the 
 fish rose to the surface, floundering about, unable to 
 keep below, and being speared on all sides. Sometimes 
 a larger fish than usual would attract three or four 
 canoes, the spearmen all striking for the fish, and the 
 native paddlers urging them on and thrusting their 
 canoes forward so as to drive the other canoes out of 
 the line. For over a couple of hours the sport went on, 
 until we had worked our way down to the stakes. 
 Here a regular battue took place, as lots of fish had got 
 down only to be stopped by- the stakes. It was a 
 regular Jiot corner, reminding one of covert shooting at 
 home without the smoke. It was grilling hot work, 
 for by now the sun was high above the jungle trees, 
 which at first had shaded us^ and we were not sorry to 
 leave off for the welcome cry of breakfast. So, leaving 
 the natives to collect the fish, we got under the shade 
 of the boats' 'awnings and enjoyed our well-earned 
 meal. Gueritz, I think, took the top score, his ex- 
 perience in Sarawak helping him greatly. No one 
 enjoyed it more than Frank Hatton. To him the 
 whole thing had even a greater charm of freshness 
 than it had to me. 
 
 " We returned to Kudat about noon, after a most 
 enjoyable morning's sport and picnic. 
 
 Y
 
 32 2 North Borneo. 
 
 "Tlie scenery of the Bongon River is extremely 
 pretty, and we made several excursions up it for 
 hunting and for amusement. On one occasion Captain 
 Hope, H.M.S. Fhj, and I took a long walk tlirough 
 the jungle, having gone up the river some distance. 
 He is an authority on ferns, and was greatly delighted 
 ut the lavish display in the jungle of Borneo. The 
 foliage is lovely and rich, the ever-varying colour 
 and tints impossible to describe. If anything tlic 
 extreme luxuriance 2xdls on one, exciting at times a 
 longing for the grim leafless aspect of the trees in 
 Old England at winter time." 
 
 VI. 
 
 In Frank's trunks and cases which eventually reached 
 England there were some examples of native arms 
 and implements. They included the head of the 
 spear given to Frank by the Dusun chief (one of his 
 blood-brothers), the pipe referred to by Mr. Ward at 
 page 809, and other trophies and mementoes of Frank's 
 expeditions. Examples of these are illustrated in 
 succeeding pages. The Bornean parang (1) and 
 Malay kris (2) are interesting specimens of these 
 weapons. The parang is used as much for agricul- 
 tural purposes as in warfare. The sheath is made of 
 hard polished and unpolished wood, decorated witli 
 human hair, and bound together with ornamental 
 rattan. The blade is of Kay an manufacture, made 
 from native iron, and tempered by a process pretty 
 generally known in Borneo, but concerning which no 
 traveller has yet been able to give any information. 
 No European blade is more finely tempered than these 
 Kayan weapons. " I have seen some of them that will
 
 A Postscript in London. 
 
 cut a strong nail in 
 two, without turning- 
 tile edge," says Mr. 
 Crocker ; " and I don't 
 know that any writer 
 has pointed out the pe- 
 cuhar and ingenious 
 method of their form. 
 Take for example the 
 blade sent home by 
 Frank. It is con- 
 cave on one side, 
 convex on the other ; 
 the tree or other 
 object attacked with 
 it is struck with the 
 concave side, which 
 prevents the weapon 
 glancing off, and the 
 convex side assists 
 by a curving action 
 the force of penetra- 
 
 tion." 
 skeen 
 tifuUy 
 brass. 
 
 by 
 
 It is a dama- 
 blade beau- 
 inlaid with 
 It is fastened 
 band round 
 the waist, secured by 
 a large button made 
 of mother - of - pearl. 
 The Malay kris (2) 
 is a long wavy steel 
 blade, the handle 
 
 BOKNEAN PARANG (in slieatb) AND MAT-AY KKIS. 
 
 (Draun by I/' II. Margetxon.) 
 Y 2
 
 324 NorfJi Borneo. 
 
 made of what is called laimniimi wood, wliicli takes 
 a fine polish. The kris is peculiarly a weapon of 
 war, and is made in Brunei, where the native artificers 
 in metal are remarkably clever. While the parang 
 has only one cutting edge, the kris is a two-edged 
 sword. • Mr. Carl Bock tried to investigate the manu- 
 facture of similar weapons in that part of Borneo which 
 he visited under the protection of the Dutch. " The 
 process of grinding and sharpening," he says, " is very 
 slow, and to polish and put a proper edge on a plain 
 blade occupies miore than a fortnight. Many of the 
 blades are beautifully inlaid with brass along the sides 
 and near the back, while others have open scroll 
 patterns cut right through the blade. How this work 
 is done I could not ascertain, as both Dyaks and 
 Malays were very wary of giving any information, and 
 very unwilling to show me any of their tools. Regular 
 workshops do not seem to exist, each man being appa- 
 rently, to a great extent, his own cutler." Many blades, 
 however, are imported into the interior of Borneo from 
 native Brunei traders. 
 
 This second group of arms and implements (page 
 325) represents (1) the blade of a parang, the handle of 
 bone, the lower part bound with brass wire ; (2) head 
 of Dusun spear; (3) small parang and sheath, the 
 handle of the blade made of deer horn, the sheath beinsr 
 two pieces of light wood bound together with plaited 
 rattan ; (4) a paddy cutter, or reaping-hook, as old 
 in form and manufacture as the biblical days of Buth. 
 The handle is made of a specially hard Bornean wood 
 bound both for ornament and use with bamboo cane. 
 The implement is small. Only the heads of the rice 
 are reaped. It would be interesting if it were possible
 
 A Postscript in Loudon. 
 
 to trace the history of tins almost universal implement 
 to the savage tribes of Borneo. The method of rice 
 
 cultivation is 
 
 curious. A clearinsf being 
 
 made, the 
 undergrowth is fired. The ashes are 
 an excellent manure. Meanwhile the 
 cultivators construct rafts, cover them 
 with earth, sow them with seed, and 
 place them in the river, where they are 
 kept moist. Very quickly the rafts be- 
 come green floating islands. Then the 
 women trarsplant the grain into the 
 newly cleared ground, which has to be 
 constantly weeded. Eats are often 
 as troublesome as weeds, and the na- 
 tives have a cleverly constructed trap 
 which does great execution among 
 tbem. 
 
 The third group of implements, 
 parangs and reaper sheaths (page 326), 
 
 GROUP OF BORXEAN ARMS AND IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 {Drawn hy Helen H. Ration.) 
 
 exhibits in a marked degree the primitive and civi- 
 lized methods of Bornean workmanship. These 
 sheaths are of the most ordinary and primitive cha- 
 racter — two roughly fashioned pieces of wood bound 
 together with rattan and ornamental plaitings of bam-
 
 ;26 
 
 North Borneo. 
 
 boo, while the blades they contain are worthy of a 
 Sheffield cutler. (1) A parang ; (2) the rough, clumsy 
 sheath of the rice-reaper ; (8) the sheath of the hand- 
 some, straight, beautifully balanced parang blade in the 
 previous group ; and (4) the last is a parang sheath 
 with a suggestion of artistic instinct which finds ex- 
 pression in a little scroll cut with a knife at the end of 
 
 :^F^St^ 
 
 PAKAXGS AND RKAPER-SIIEATIIS. 
 
 {Drawn by Helen H. Mutton.) 
 
 the scabbard, and in the dainty twisting of the rattan 
 bands. The parang is used for every purpose that a 
 knife can be put to, including the carving of blade 
 handles, raft-making, cutting up of game, and as a 
 weapon of warfare. 
 
 The following. iUustration (page 327) represents a 
 bamboo case, and examples of its poisoned arrows. It 
 is bound and deftly ornamented with rattan work, and
 
 A Postscript ill London. 
 
 j-/ 
 
 has a rattan fixture for slipping into the sarong girdle, 
 previously described. The arrows are small shafts of 
 light wood sharpened at one end, a knob being left at 
 the other to fit the blow-pipe. This latter is called a 
 sumpitan. It is formed of bamboo, and the length 
 and use of it is illustrated in the drawing on page 272. 
 The arrows are both plain and barbed, and they are 
 anointed with a deadly poison. Frank's cases con- 
 tain several examples of them, set apart for analysis, 
 
 rOISOXED AEROW-CASR AND' AKUOWS. 
 
 (Drawn hy W. H. Margetson.) 
 
 one packet being forwarded to him by Mr. Witti. Mr. 
 Crocker says, " The poison is understood to be a com- 
 pound of the milk of two different trees. It is very 
 deadly, will kill a man in a few minutes, and yet 
 animals or birds killed with it are edible. In some 
 parts of Borneo the sumpitan is the only weapon of 
 defence and offence, and the natives depend upon it 
 as hunters for their subsistence." 
 
 " The pipes (page 328) which Frank obtained from
 
 3^^ 
 
 North Borneo. 
 
 tlie Tungara people are unique," says Mr. Crocker, 
 " I liave never seen nor heard of any Bornean tribes 
 wlio smoke pipes. These two examples were evidently 
 highly valued by Frank, Ward says Frank risked his 
 life in obtaining them. Coming from the far interior, they 
 are all the more curious and interesting. They must 
 be peculiar to that one tribe, the Tungara people. All 
 the natives of Borneo smoke, almost from the moment 
 they leave their mothers' arms. They roll the tobacco 
 in a palm leaf to smoke it, and it has a very fine 
 flavour. But pipes : this is the ^rst time anybody 
 
 J'IPES FEOM THE TUXGAEA COUNTET. 
 
 {Draivn by Helen H. Hatton.) 
 
 has ever heard of pipes in Borneo, These two pipe- 
 relics of Frank's last expedition, are made of hard red 
 wood, and have bamboo stems. They are much the 
 same kind of pipe as that used by the Chinese, who 
 only put in a pinch of tobacco. The discovery of these 
 pipes suggests another piece of evidence favourable to 
 the belief that at some very remote period Borneo was 
 partially settled and occupied by China." The smalt 
 orifices of the large bowls contain the remains of half- 
 smoked tobacco. In Sidu and in Brunei the sultans 
 and great officers smoke pipes, imported from Java 
 and Singapore, of a large and elaborate character, and
 
 A Postscript in Loudon. 
 
 ;29 
 
 Mr. Carl Bock describes a Dj^ak 
 pipe of this kind in Dutch Borneo. 
 The accompanying musical in- 
 strument, which I venture to call 
 a mouth-organ, is,' Mr. Crocker 
 tells me, " pecuhar to the Kaj^an 
 tribe, which has, I beUeve, off- 
 shoots in the centre of Borneo. 
 This specimen picked up by Frank 
 shows that it is so, and in- 
 deed I think it will even- 
 tually be found that the 
 tribes of Sarawak, with 
 which of course I am most 
 intimately acquainted, have 
 branches or off-shoots 
 throughout the entire is- 
 land. This Kayan instru- 
 ment gives forth a soft and 
 
 soothing kind 
 
 I have 
 
 of music, 
 often heard it 
 
 nOnXEAN MOUTH-ORGAN. 
 
 {Drawn bij Jlc/eii II. llalton.)
 
 North Borneo. 
 
 played. It is made of bamboo reeds, and a gourd. 
 The reeds are eight in number. They are fastened 
 into a gourd, the stalk of which is the mouth-piece 
 The pipes are from twelve to twenty inches in length, 
 and the fingers play upon the tops, like keys. I have 
 seen some with orifices in the sides of the pipes. I 
 
 notice only one in 
 this instrument." Mr. 
 Carl Bock, who found 
 a similar instrument 
 among the tribes 
 of Dutch Borneo, 
 says, " Mr. Augustus 
 Franks, of the Bri- 
 tish Museum, has a 
 
 
 
 SIRIH-BOX, KNIFE, AND DETAIL OF DE' 
 
 {Drawn by Helen H. Hatton. 
 
 Chinese book in 
 which there is 
 fio'ured an instru- 
 
 O 
 
 ment made in a 
 very similar man- 
 ner." The one 
 Avhich I engrave 
 is a far more 
 artistic and ela- 
 
 borate specimen than that which Mr. Bock exhibits 
 among his fine collection of Dyak utensils in hi? 
 " Head Hunters of Borneo." 
 
 The last of these illustrations of Frank's small but 
 interesting collection, is a remarkable example of bar- 
 baric art. It is a double sirih-box and knife or 
 parang. The lids are ornamented with cowrie shells
 
 A Postscript in London. 331 
 
 and gold and brass grouted into a composition which 
 is as hard as cement. The cases are carved with cir- 
 cular lines, and at the top with ornamental bands, 
 conspicuous in the design being a row of human 
 heads. The cases still contain lime, a very fine white 
 powder, 
 
 " The natives," says Mr. Crocker, " mix the sirih 
 leaf in the lime, and also betel-nut, sometimes gambler, 
 and chew the mixture. When they are old and 
 lose their teeth they have a kind of pestle with 
 which they beat it up into a paste. The effect of this 
 sirih-chewing is very stimulating. Europeans often 
 become confirmed sirih-eaters. On a novice the first 
 effects are startling, producing a deadly feeling of 
 drunkenness, sometimes of sickness. Perseverance in 
 the habit, as in the case of other narcotics, often esta- 
 blishes a confirmed and regular use of it. On a long 
 march it is often useful in its eff'ects. The first token 
 of welcome in a Dyak house is the handing round of 
 the sirih-box. The Malays are great intriguantes, and 
 they have quite a language of sirih leaves, a regular 
 lover's dictionary." 
 
 Frank's specimens of natural history, mostly birds, 
 w^ere said to be " not in a fit condition to send home." 
 A box of beetles and moths are represented in an 
 early chapter. His latest work at South Kensing- 
 ton, before he left England, was to fill a number of 
 jars with fruits and vegetables, with a view to inves- 
 tigation on his return, in connection with his bacteria 
 I'esearches, and also with a view "to the possible 
 discovery of new chemical bodies in the decaj^ed matter. 
 It was his intention to supplement these investigations
 
 332 A^ortJi Borneo. 
 
 with experiments upon Borneaii fraits, vegetables, and 
 
 other natural products of the country. His latest 
 
 correspondence referred to the possibilities of obtaining 
 
 a grant from the Royal Society in connection with these 
 
 researches. Among his papers were several photographs 
 
 which I am inclined to think were not taken by himself, 
 
 and as there is no clue to their origin, I have not 
 
 had them engraved. Some of them may possibly have 
 
 been obtained at Jahore (which he visited during one 
 
 of his Singapore vacations) or at Sarawak. There 
 
 is one, however, which is an imperfect and evidently 
 
 hurried production. " This," says Mr. Alfred Dent, 
 
 " is, I should say, one of Frank's own. 'It is a group 
 
 of native Dyak women, taken in the interior and near 
 
 a stockade. It is a remarkable illustration, not only 
 
 as giving a real picture of the best class of Dyak 
 
 women, but showing their mode of dress, or the 
 
 absence of it, and the fashion of wearing brass wire 
 
 around the arms, legs, and neck. The photograph is 
 
 also proof of the confidence shown in the European 
 
 Avho made it, the Dyaks being exceedingly jealous of 
 
 their women." Frank in his letters mentions several 
 
 photographs which have not reached England. The 
 
 most serious loss is of course his diaries. Not one 
 
 of them came home among his effects, which were 
 
 ordered to be carefully collected and despatched to 
 
 England. A portion of the first, and the whole of the 
 
 last one, came home long after his clothes and other 
 
 property. " His roving life," as his friend Dr. 
 
 AValker writes, " made the collecting together of his 
 
 things a difficult business." Every possible inquiry 
 
 and investigation into the matter has, I know, been 
 
 made by the Governor and Mr. Resident Pryer, whose
 
 A Postscript in LoJidon. ^iZZ 
 
 uniform kindness and sympathy, with that of the 
 rest of the officers and Company, I cannot sufficiently 
 acknowledge.^ At the same time I know that the 
 
 * Among Frank's papers there were friendly letters from most of 
 the officers of the Company, from the Governor do"\^^l wards, all of 
 which he had carefully preserved. They were folded and packed away 
 with so much care, as were the whole of my letters to him, that, to quote 
 a letter which I lately received from Mr. Resident Pryer, it does seem 
 all the more "strange about the missing diaries. I hardly think 
 Frank would have taken them with him, to be exposed to all the 
 possible dangers of a scrambling journey in small canoes, and through 
 the forest in this wet season. So it seems reasonable to suppose they 
 must have been put away carefully somewhere in Kudat ; in the 
 laboratory seems most likely." I select from among the papers that 
 came home, a letter from Mr. Witti. It was Avritten to me, and sent 
 by me to Frank, as evidencing the feeling which "Witti entertained 
 towards him. I had had reason to fear there might be a little jealousy 
 in their relationship ; and I had written to Witti commending Frank 
 to him, and trusting .that Frank's youth and worthy ambition would 
 command his sympathy, and that whenever "Witti came to London he 
 would give me the opportunity of thanking him in person for the 
 kindly courtesy that I felt sure he would extend to my son. His 
 rejily may lie quoted now, not only as a tribute to his young colleague, 
 but as an indication of the generosity of his own disposition : — 
 
 Kimanis, N.'W. Borneo. 
 
 1st March, 1882. 
 Dear Sih,— The encouraging remarks in your kind letter I may 
 thankfully accept, but as to yoiu" anticipating any merits of mine 
 about your son, I coidd scarcely be happier in acting up to your 
 opinion, than what I am by stating that he prospers in the new field 
 Avithout any other aid from part of his brother-officers than knowing 
 himself liked by each of them. In as far as I lost my own chance 
 of a more intimate fellowship with your son through the Governor's 
 orders, I feel inclined to grumble ; but at the same time I admit 
 that the arrangement offers your son a fairer field and more liberty of 
 action than what had, apparently, been the case otherwise. The 
 present situation is illustrative of what became of the original idea of 
 allowing me to co-operate with your son : ho himself is by this time
 
 do' 
 
 N^oi'tJi Borneo. 
 
 diaries existed, and it is possible tliey may yet be dis- 
 covered. If the stimulus of a reward could unearth 
 them, the Company, as well as myself, would be only 
 too glad to recompense the finder of the missing books 
 and ether lost property, of little or no account in 
 Borneo, but of inestimable value to me. 
 
 A few friends and fellow- workers of the late Frank 
 Hatton have created, in honour of his memory, an 
 Annual Prize, to be held by the Students of the Royal 
 School of Mines and Normal College of Science, South 
 Kensington, and to be called "The Frank Hatton 
 Memorial Prize." The Council, in a special order, sig- 
 nifying their approval of the project, recommended 
 that the prize be given for Organic Chemistry, in 
 which important branch of science the late Mr. Frank 
 Hatton more especially distinguished himself at South 
 Kensington. " The intention of the founders of this 
 memorial is twofold. AVhile perpetuating the memory 
 of a student whose useful and brilliant career was cut 
 short almost at its commencement, and during a 
 notable scientific expedition in the interior of Borneo, 
 it is hoped that this Memorial Prize will encourage 
 others of the same College and School to special 
 exertion in chemical research." 
 
 An obelisk to the memory of Frank Hatton and Franz 
 
 following up traces of antimony in the Labuk, and I am going upland 
 here to try and tame the Dalit-men, who delight in now and then 
 killing ?ome traders. I may safely predict, I shall miss your son's 
 supporting company at my business, while he will scarcely notice my 
 absence at his. 
 
 I am, dear sir, very sincerely yours, 
 
 F. WiTTI. 
 
 To Joseph Hatton, Es(|., 
 London.
 
 A Postscript in London. 335 
 
 Xavier "Witti ' is being placed in front of the Govern- 
 ment Buildings at Elopnra, the result of a subscription 
 on the spot. Neither of these officers named after 
 
 2 Since these closing notes were written, and before this memorial 
 coluhin is finished, the subscribing officials of the Company have 
 ordered three other names to be engraven upon the pedestal, namely, 
 Dr. D. ]\Ianson Fraser, Captain A. M. de Fontaine, and Jemadhar Asa 
 Singh, who were treacherously killed in a fray with Bajous on the 
 12th of May, 1885, while on an expedition Avith a party of native 
 constabulary to capture a notorious head-hunter and cattle-raiding 
 chief, one Kandurong. Captain de Fontaine had charge of the expe- 
 dition, the two other Europeans accompanied him in no official capacity, 
 but Asa Singh was a member of his staff. At the village of Kawang 
 on the west coast, while making their arrangements for baggage-car- 
 riers and other assistance, they were unexpectedly attacked, one of the 
 natives (Bajous), while talking to Dr. Fraser in an apparently friendly 
 way, suddenly discharging his musket at him and killing him on the 
 spot. Two other natives (who turned out to be well-known cattle 
 tliieves) at once amoked and fatally speared Jemadhar Asa Singh, and 
 private Jeudali Singh, and then rushed off for the jungle. Captain 
 de Fontaine dashed after them. Before the rest had time to support 
 him, he stumbled and fell, whereupon the Bajous turned back to the 
 attack. He shot three of them Avith his revolver, but was speared in 
 nine places, and eventually died of his wounds. His little constabulary 
 force fell upon the remainder of the retreating Bajous and dispersed 
 tliem, killing several, and sustaining some severe casualties themselves. 
 None of the villagers took part in the affair, the assailants turning out 
 to be part of a roving band of marauders who are as hostile to the 
 settled peaceful natives of the villages as to the Company. Captain 
 de Fontaine, the head of the constabulary force (first organized by 
 Colonel Harington), was very popular in the service, as were Dr. 
 Manson Fraser and the native officer, Jemadhar Asa Singh. "Wliile 
 these calamities are very lamentable, it is worthy of note that, con- 
 sidering they . cover a period of six or seven years of government, 
 deaths from violence have been remarkably few. Dr. Fraser's death 
 is peculiarly sad. He went to Borneo a newly married man, some 
 two years ago. His wife had died with her first child, a few montlis 
 prior to his assassination. They lie together in the little cemetery at 
 Sandakan.
 
 2,3^ North Borneo. 
 
 tliemselves or their friends any part of the countries 
 they explored. Frank Hntton, in a private letter, 
 amused himself with a reference to " Hattonville ;" 
 and in one of his private diaries makes a memorandum 
 in respect of a possible new discovery of a chemical 
 body, to call it " Hattonite;" but whenever it fell to 
 his lot to name any stream or tract of country, he used 
 a native designation. The identification of portions 
 of the newly-explored lands with his name comes 
 therefore with a special grace from his successors and 
 superior oflBcers. "Mount Hatton " will keep his 
 memory green in the territory where he fell ; and " The 
 Witti Eiver" might well hand down to posterity the 
 name and fame of his brave and unfortunate colleague.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Abai, 137 (note) ; harbour, 167. 
 A'Beckett, Mr. Gilbert, 101 (note). 
 " Action of Bacteria on Various 
 
 Gases," 53. 
 " A Drop of Thames Water," 17, 40. 
 Ague, Attack of, 260. 
 Alabaster, Mr. H., death of, 68 
 
 (note). 
 Ali, Sheriff, 167. 
 Alligators, 261. 
 Alowakie river, 248. 
 " Analysis of Thames Water where 
 
 Princess Alice went down," 46 
 
 (note). 
 Antimony, see " Geological Notes.'' 
 Arms, Native, 322—327. 
 Armstrong, Dr. H. E., 59. 
 " AiTak," 209. 
 
 Arrows, Poisoned, see " Sumpitan." 
 Attacked by Muruts, 272. 
 
 Bajous, The, 335 (note). 
 
 Balamljangan, Garrison at, as- 
 saulted by pirates, 4 (note). 
 
 Barker, Dr. Fordyce, 31. 
 
 Beelah, Evidence of, at inquest, 289. 
 
 Bendowen, 202. 
 
 Beveridge, Mr., 99, 100 (note), 105, 
 106, no, 113. 226—2.52, 279, 283 ; 
 evidence of, at inquest, 288, 290. 
 
 Binkoka district. Geology of, 172. 
 
 " Bintang-marrow " station, 186 
 (note). 
 
 Bingrnph, 39. 
 
 Birds'-nests, Edible. 247. 
 
 Blood-brother Ceremonies, 196, 203. 
 
 Boa constrictor. A, 132. 
 
 Bock, Mr. Carl, 190 (note), 324, 329, 
 
 330. 
 Bongou, 169, 172, 236. 
 Bongon river, 73, 168, 318—322. 
 Borneo, Dutch and English in, 
 
 4 (note) ; Sir Jas. Brooke in, 4 
 
 (note) ; Missionary work in, 80. 
 Bradshaw, Mrs., 101 (note). 
 Bradstreeis, 39, 40, 48. 
 Brass cannon, Chinese, 238. 
 British North Borneo Company, 5 
 
 (note), 20, 24, 25, 61, 85, 96, 97, 
 
 110, 136 (note), 283, 334 (note). 
 Brooke, (Rajah) Sir Jas., 4 (note) ; 
 
 founded Sarawak, 5 (note) ; 6 
 
 (note). 
 Brunei, 324, 328. 
 Brunei, Sultan of, 5 (note). 
 Buffalo-riding, 169. 
 Buli Dupie, Story of, 257. 
 Bungalow life in Labuan, 70, 12 !•. 
 Byag, 205. 
 
 Cakpenter bees, 126. 
 
 Chemical Neu's, 54. 
 
 Chemical Societifs Journal, 60. 
 
 Clearing, An ancient, 255. 
 
 Coal, 73, 128, 144, 145, 155, 173. 
 
 266 — 273; see also "Geological 
 
 Notes." 
 Coal-beds, Future, 262. 
 Coal Point (Tanjong Kubong), 69, 
 
 128, 130, 313.
 
 00' 
 
 Index. 
 
 Copper, Explorincr for, 82,91 (note), 
 92 (note), 94, 221, 246, 250—252. 
 
 Crocker, Mr. W. M., 26,61, 96,266 
 (note), 323, 827, 331. 
 
 Grossman, Col., 139 (note). 
 
 Daily Neivs, 108 (note). 
 
 Dalit-men, 333 (note). 
 
 Daly, Mr. D. D., 308 (note). 
 
 Danao houses, 213. 
 
 Danao plain, 208, 211. 
 
 Datu Malunad, 169, 173. 
 
 Datu Ower, 171. 
 
 Datn Serikaya, 179. 
 
 Dead, Treatment of, 214, 266. 
 
 Dead man's ghost, Talking to, 204. 
 
 De Crespigny, C. E., 205 (note). 
 
 De Fontaine, Capt. A. M., 335 
 
 (note). 
 Degadong, 169, 212. 
 De Lissa, Mr., 108 (note). 
 Dent, Mr. Alfred, 26, 100, 332. 
 Dilke, Mr. A. W., M.P., 17. 
 Durahim, Evidence of, at inquest, 
 
 291. 
 Durian, Fruit of the, 263 (note). 
 Dusuns, The, 144, 1.52, 1.58, 164, 169, 
 
 193, 199, 218, 223 (note), 233, 264. 
 Dyaks, The, 258, 324, 330, 332. 
 
 East India Company, 4. 
 
 Elephant-hunting, 284. 
 
 Elephant swamp, 276. 
 
 Elk's-horn fern, 147. 
 
 Elopura, 7, 8, 109, 111, 284; in- 
 que.st at, 287, 335. 
 
 Elphinstone, Lord, 98. 
 
 Empty tins better than cloth, 211. 
 
 English Illustrated Magazine, 115. 
 
 Everett, Mr. A. H., 70," 72. 
 
 Expeditions: Bongon river, 73; 
 Timbong Batn, 73 ; Labuk to 
 Kinoi'am, 76; Kina Baluto Tum- 
 boyonkon, 82 ; up the Segama 
 and round Silam and Sibokon, 
 90, 94; Labuk river to Kiidat, 
 108, 174—221 ; Sandakan to La- 
 buk, 114; Marudn Bay, 114; on 
 the Sequati and Kurina rivers ; 
 13-5 — 173; fonr months in Kino- 
 ram and the Marudu, 222 — 253 ; 
 last expedition, 2.54- — 281. 
 
 Ferns, 322. 
 
 Fever, To avoid, 257 ; attacks of, 
 
 237, 260. 
 Fishing, Mode of, 318-321. 
 Floods, 74, 171, 210, 214, 231, 26.3, 
 
 272. 
 Frankland, Prof , 3, 16, 54, 56, .58. 
 Franks, Mr. A., 330. 
 Fraser, Dr. D. M., Assassination 
 
 of, 335 (note). 
 
 Garass hill, 217. 
 
 Garfield, President, 68. 
 
 Gensalong (chief), 235. 
 
 Geological Notes, 73, 76, 82. 91 
 (note;, 113, 114, 141—145, 148, 
 153,1.55—1.57,161,168,169,172— 
 174, 179, 180,183—185, 192, 200, 
 206, 215, 223 (note), 225, 229. 
 235, 245, 2.50—252, 261—273. 
 
 Ghanaghana, 209. 
 
 Gilbert, Dr., 58. 
 
 Goat-sucker, 131. 
 
 Gold, Discovery of, 266 (note) ; see 
 also " Geological notes." 
 
 Gueritz, Mr., 219 (note), 321. 
 
 Habalu, 209. 
 
 Hamilton, Hon. A., 71, 121 (note). 
 
 Harington,Coh,Notes by,120— 134; 
 135, 137, 219 (note); his acquain- 
 tance with Frank Hatton, 312 — 
 322 ; fishing trip np the Bongon, 
 319—322 ; 335 (note). 
 
 Hassan, Sei'geant, 276 ; murder of, 
 308 (note). 
 
 Hatton, Frank : Boyhood, 8 ; birth- 
 place, 10; school life, 11; at 
 College of Marcq, Lille, 12 ; at 
 King's College, 13 ; Oxford and 
 Cambridge Examinations, 14; at 
 the Royal School of Mines, 15 ; 
 at Jermyn Street and South 
 Kensington, 15, 331 ; geological 
 tours, 15; visit to Derbyshire, 
 15 (note); commendations of 
 eminent scientific men, and of the 
 Chemical Society, 16, 56, 58 — 60 ; 
 his admiration for Darwin and 
 Huxley, 16 ; literary work, 17, 
 32 ; travels on the Continent, 17 ; 
 portrait in Grai^ldc, 17 ; personal
 
 Index. 
 
 339 
 
 appearance, 19 ; Fellow of the 
 Chemical Society, 23; engage- 
 ment by the Compauy,24f ; essays, 
 40 ; papers read before the Che- 
 mical Society, 53 ; arrangements 
 for leaving England, 60 ; letters 
 en route, 63 — 68; in Paris, 63; 
 memoranda for proposed book, 
 66 (note), 115, 135 (note); invita- 
 tion to Bangkok, Si am, 68; at 
 Government House, Labuan, 69, 
 71 ; expeditions in the interior, 
 73 — 94 ; knowledge of Malay and 
 Dusun, 78, 82, 90; dinner in 
 the bush, 78 ; ascent of Kina 
 Balu, 80; last exploration, 90; 
 telegraphic news of his death, 
 96, 97 ; sympathy of Court of 
 Directors, 97 (note) ; letters of 
 condolence, 97 — 101 ; the fatal 
 accident, 105, 113; the last jour- 
 ney, 107 ; inquest and verdict, 
 109, no, 287—293, interred at 
 Elopura, 111 ; eloquent tribute 
 to, in Norfh Borneo Herald, 112 ; 
 Governor Treacher's letter to the 
 Company, 284; Mr. Beveridge's 
 devotion, 284; Mr. Fryer's ac- 
 count of the accident, 284—287 ; 
 31r. Herbert Ward's narrative, 
 300—308; incidents of life in 
 Borneo related by Col.Harington, 
 312-322; loss of diaries, 332; 
 " Frank Hatton Memorial Prize," 
 334 ; memorial obelisk, 334 ; 
 " Mount Hatton," 336. 
 
 " Hattouville," 75, 336. 
 
 " Head- Hunters of Borneo," 190 
 (note), 330. 
 
 Head-hunting, 77, 88, 1S9, 212. 
 
 Hodgkinson, Dr., 16, 61, 91. 
 
 Hooker, Sir Joseph, 16. 
 
 Hoi>e, Capt, 322. 
 
 Houses, Floating, 262. 
 
 Huxley, Prof., 3. 
 
 " Influence of Intermittent Filtra- 
 tion," &c., 53. 
 Inland lakes, 256, 268. 
 Inquest, The, 287—293. 
 
 Jacksos, Father, 71. 
 
 Jahore, Visit to, 332. 
 Java, Earthquake in, 93 (note). 
 Johnston, Mr. H. H., 105 (note). 
 Jumah, Evidence of,at inquest, 292. 
 Jungle, Tropical, 146, 149, 170, 243, 
 322. 
 
 Kagibangax, 194. 
 
 Kaladi, 158. 
 
 Kaliga Point, 148. 
 
 Kambiggiug (chief), 224, 232. 
 
 Kandurong (chief), 335 (uote). 
 
 Kaponakan river, 218, 248. 
 
 Kawang, 335 (uote). 
 
 Kayan tribe, 329. 
 
 Kayan weapons, 322. 
 
 Kepi^el, Admiral, 5 (uote). 
 
 Khoribson river, 243. 
 
 Kias, 226, 236,216. 
 
 Kimanis, 333 (note). 
 
 Kina Balu, 3, 5, 79, 109, 120, 137 
 
 (note), 198, 221. 
 Kinabatangan.cave, Story of, 257. 
 Kinabatangan river. 111, 113, 181, 
 
 186 (note), 254, 278. 
 Kinarringan (god), 161, 201, 233. 
 King-fisher, The, 131 (note). 
 Kinoram, 76, 77, 82, 90. 91 (note), 
 
 219, 222—253. 
 Kion G^ndokod, 241. 
 Klings, The, 123. 
 Knox, Col., 28. 
 Knetei, Sultan of, 190 (note). 
 Koligan, 214 ; baggage-bearers, 215. 
 Kondorikan river, 249. 
 Kris, Malay, 322—324. 
 Kudat, 73, 77, 81, 91 (note), 108, 
 
 114, 166. 173, 174—221, 314. 
 Kurching, 76. 
 Kui-ina river, 143 — 173. 
 
 L.viUAN, Purchase of, by English 
 Government, 5 (uote) ; 69, 70, 72, 
 76; life at, 119—134, 313; de- 
 serted colliery works, 129. 
 
 Labuan Coal Company, 73. 
 
 Labuk hills, 178, 180. 
 
 Labnk river, 109, 114, 174, 221. 
 
 Lamag rivoi", 276. 
 
 Lasas, 216. 
 
 LeechesC limantungs "),185 (uote), 
 262, 278. 
 
 7 '•>
 
 340 
 
 Index. 
 
 Leys, Governor, 70, 72. 
 Liborreu, 175.. 
 Lilompatie, 206. 
 Lobah, 224. 
 Lomantic, 176. 
 Longat, 205. 
 Luru, 160. 
 Luru river, 153, 161. 
 
 Madalon mountain, 225, 234. 
 
 Madanao, 237. 
 
 Malays, The North Bornean, 71, 
 
 121, 324. 
 Mamalunan river, 279. 
 Marau-Parang, 216. 
 Marudu (Toaran) river, 232—253. 
 Mason wasp, 127. ■ 
 Medhurst, Sir W., 96, 97. 
 Meerschaum, Specimen of, 256. 
 Mentapok, 192, 197. 
 Mentapom mountain, 193. 
 Mentapose mountain, 172. 
 "Men with tails," 190. 
 Merrisinsing, 172. 
 Meteorological Notes, 38, 67, 70, 
 
 126, 139, 152, 201, 208, 231, 256, 
 
 257—273. 
 Minerals, see " Geological Notes," 
 
 &c. 
 Mint, Yisit to the, 48. 
 Miruru country, 192. 
 Missionary work, 80. 
 Montgelas, Count, 80 ; lost in the 
 
 bush, 314—318. 
 Moroli in the vale, 247. 
 Mosquitoes, 127, 131, 255, 279. 
 Moths, 128. 
 
 Mouth-organ, Bornean, 329. 
 Mundy, Capt., 241 (note). 
 MuUykup river, 302. 
 Mumus, 224, 226. 
 Munnus, 219. 
 Murray, Capt., 28. 
 Muruts, The, 88, 204, 213, 270, 272. 
 Muruyan river, 254. 
 Musical instruments, 133, 163, 329, 
 
 330. 
 
 Nabalu mountain, 234, 241, 245. 
 Narrow escapes, 265, 305. 
 Native cloth, 151. 
 
 Natural history Notes, ] 26— 128, 
 131—133, 146, 185 (note), 199, 
 228, 229, 262, 267, 276, 279, 303, 
 314, 331. 
 
 " New Ceylon," 6, 87, 93. 
 
 Niasanne, 207. 
 
 Nonohan-t-agaioh mountain, 224, 
 227. 
 
 JVorth Borneo Herald, 112, 308 
 (note). 
 
 OoDEEX (Udin), 106, 110, 113, 285; 
 evidence of, at inquest, 290; 310. 
 Oriental Coal Company, 128. 
 Overbeck, Baron, 85. 
 
 Paddy-cutter, 324. 
 
 Page, Mr. F. J. M., 56. 
 
 Palu-jDalu ravine, 250. 
 
 Pampang, 235, 239 ; house at, 253. 
 
 Panataran river, 244, 245. 
 
 Pangeran Brunei, 148 — 152, 159, 
 161. 
 
 Parang, Bornean, 322—326, 330. 
 
 Paris, A day in, 63. 
 
 Passir, Sultan of, 190 (note). 
 
 Pengopuyan mountains, 22.5, 236. 
 
 Petroleum, 137 (note), 139—146, 
 153—157. 
 
 Pigeon-shooting, 264. 
 
 Pigs, Mode of kilHng, 214. 
 
 Pinowanter, 248. 
 
 Pinungah, 300, 311. 
 
 Pinungah river, 268, 275. 
 
 Pipes, Curious, 305, 327—329. 
 
 Pirates, Sulu, 141. 
 
 Poduss, 244. 
 
 Pomodanyoun, 185. 
 
 Poutianak, 4 (note). 
 
 Port Said, 66 (note). 
 
 Prahu accident, 273 — 275. 
 
 Prize, The Frank Hatton Memo- 
 rial, 334. 
 
 Pryer, Mr. (Resident), 87, 111, 112. 
 186 (note), 282, 332, 333 (note). 
 
 Pudi, 225. 
 
 Pungoh, 182. 
 
 QuAMUT, 259, 262.
 
 Index. 
 
 341 
 
 *' Rajah Brooke's Journal," 241 
 
 (note). 
 Eapid, Fearful, 265. 
 Read, Mr., 26, 67. 
 Regent's Canal explosion, 12. 
 Roscoe. Prof., -53, 54, 58. 
 Rothschild's, Visit to. 48. 
 Royal Geographical Society, 28. 
 Royal School of Mines, 15, 334. 
 Rumalow river, 241. 
 
 Sambae, English expedition against, 
 
 4 (note). 
 Sandakan, 69, 92, 94, 109, 115, 282. 
 Sarong, The, 158 (note). 
 Segama, 8, 90, 94, 336. 
 " Semungup" custom, 186 (note). 
 Senendan, 202. 
 Sepulut men, 269. 
 Shooting rapids, 272. 
 Silam hills, 109. 
 Sin-Dyaks, 187. 258. 
 Singapore, ^%, 75, 91. 
 Singat vale, 109. 
 
 Singh, Jemadhar Asa, 335 (note). 
 Sinoront, 212. 
 
 Siquati, Oil and coal at, 73. 
 Siquiiti river, 135 — 173. 
 Sirih-box, A, 330, 331. 
 Sirih-leaves, Language of, 331. 
 Slave, Killing a, 212. 
 Smith at Siquati, 73 ; and Labuk, 
 
 194. 
 Sogolitan, 189. 
 Spear, Dusun, 324. 
 St. John, Mr., 121. 
 Succadana, 4 (note). 
 Suez Canal, 66 (note). 
 Sugut rivers, 215. 
 Sulu men, 180. 
 Sumpitan, Description of the, 89, 
 
 326, 327 ; 212 (note), 305. 
 Sun-birds, 126. 
 Sunsets. 134, 137 (note), 197. 
 Superstitions, 193, 233, 263, 304. 
 Swallows' nests, 228. 
 Ssvainp, kyv irapeuetrable, 277. 
 
 Tara root, 319. 
 
 Talia, Evidence of, at inquest, 292. 
 
 Talc, Hill of, 1«1. 
 
 Tampassuk river, 241. 
 
 Tampias, 194. 
 
 Tanah Dupas (Tampolou), 183. 
 
 Tander Batu, 177. 
 
 TanjoDg Sugut, 175. 
 
 Tehipid river, 184. 
 
 Temperature, sea " Meteorological 
 
 Notes." 
 Tenegang, 255. 
 Tertipan, 172. 
 Tertipan river, 167, 168. 
 Thames water, 17, 40, 46 (note). 
 Thomson, Mr. J., 105 (note). 
 Tidy, Prof. : Paper on " River 
 
 Water," 58; oratorical manner, 
 
 59. 
 TimbongBatu, 73, 169. 
 Tinggaluns, The, 256. 
 ToacUlah, 198. 
 Tobacco, Use of, 328. 
 Tonaran river, 234. 
 Traveller's tree, 67. 
 Treacher, Mr. (Governor), 27, 70— 
 
 72, 105 (note), 110, 112, 223 
 
 (note), 284. 
 Treacher, Mrs., 99. 
 Tree fern, m. 
 Trentidan, 242. 
 Tuan Murrini, 276. 
 Tumboyonkon mountain, 225, 2-50. 
 Tungara, 270 ; people of, 305, 328. 
 Tun'toul, 211. 
 Tyudall, Prof., 37. 
 
 Upas juice, Collecting, 198. 
 
 Van Moort, Oliver, 4 (note) . 
 
 Victoria, Labuan, 120. 
 
 " Visit to Rothschild's, and to the 
 
 British Mint," 40, 48. 
 Von Donnop, Mr., 238, 246. 
 
 Walker, Dr., 61, 109, 185 (note) ; 
 
 evidence of, at inquest, 287, 289, 
 
 292, 332. 
 Walker, Mr., 266 (note). 
 Wallace, " Malay Archipelago,'' 
 
 ::!64 (note).
 
 )42 
 
 hidex. 
 
 Ward, Mr. Herbert, 294, reminis- 
 cences of Frank Hatton, 296 — 
 •311 ; 322, 328. 
 
 Watts, Mr. H., 60. 
 
 AVild-cattle shooting, 153. 
 
 Wild-pig shooting, l.SO. 
 
 Witti, Mr. Franz Xavier, 20, 26, 72, 
 
 81 ; assassination of, 83 ; sketch 
 of his career, 84—90; 135, 137 
 (note), 165, 182, 211 (note), 212, 
 217, 259, 270, 305, 327; letter 
 from, 333 (note) ; obelisk in 
 memory of, 334.
 
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