y.a:. ml fe-vv % /- J r I THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES ^ NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY, ETC. NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY FIMM HERAUT TO KHIVA, MOSCOW, AND ST. PETERSBURGH, DUUtNG THE LATE RUSSIAN INVASION OF KHIVA; SOME ACCOUNT OF THE COURT OF KHIVA AND THE KINGDOM OF KHAURISM. By captain JAMES ABBOTT, BENOAt. AI!TlI.Li:i;Y, AND LATELY ON A POLITICAL MISSION. IX TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. WITH CONSIDERABLE ADDITIONS, AND A MAP. LONDON : SMITH, ELDER .^ CO., or,, OOKNIIILL. 1867. LONDON : I'KINTIP BY WEICTHEIUKK, LEA AND CO.. CIHCDS PLACE, FINSBURY, VK 2S AI3n PKE1-"ACE /?67 TO REMNANT OF SECOND EPITION. f / Since the publication in 1856 of the second edition of this work, Russia, has made rapid strides into Central Asia. The arrest of her advance to India by the route of Khiva, in 1839, has preserved for 25 years an interval of 1,500 miles between her southern frontier and the tribes and states conterminous with our Indian frontier. But when Russia perceived that this direct advance of her army was calculated to weaken the good understanding between herself and her neighliour, far from relinquishing her ultimate purpose, she directed all her energies to an advance by a more circuitous route, viz., by the basin of the River Sirr, or Jaxartes, and through the Khanauts of Kokaun, and Khiva. A fortified enclosure was established at the distance of one march from the Russian frontier. Wells were dug there, supplies were collected, and a garrison was inducted. The first fort being in a condition to hold its own, another and another were established, each one march in advance of the other, until a complete chain was farmed between the Russian frontier and the cultivated land watered by the Sirr, or Jaxartes. Khiva could not afford to go to war with .so powerful a State for the sake of a distant strip of unproductive steppe. And thus Russia has, without risk, advanced upon Kokaun by regular approaches, as if lor the siege of a fortress, and with tli(! same certain results. News from the region oi' Russia's advance is so uncertain that the extent of lier conquest or encroach- ment cannot be coiiiidently stated. It is certain, however, that the Tartar state of Kokaun li.is been 11J3G7'10 V! PKKFACE. iiltsorht'd 1)V Kiissi:i, :iml it is |.roh:il)K' tliat she lias possession ot" l)otli Siiniiiiai-kiuul and lioklii'ira. Jfshe be not lit liokhara to-day she will be to-morrow. Three vii'ws niav be taken of the advanee of the Russian frontier towards India. 1. As likely to throw us immediately into hostile collision with her in .Vsia. '2. As a matter wholly indifferent to us, as regards our Indian Hm|)ire, and of extensive benefit to Central Asia. 3. Or as a matter beneficial to Central Asia, but bodinjjf no jrood to our dominion in the Eastern world. At the [)r('scnt tlay. the second of these theories is in favour with the public. The author of this journal, however, cannot subscribe to it. Rememberins^the past history, and the past and present policy of Russia, he conceives that no sound mind can look with indif- ference uix)n the rapid and near approach of that State to our Indian possessions. Not that he con- siders Russia unwise enough to invade those posses- sions innnediately, but because it is certain that her main object in the advance is to have the means of tlu'eatening Great Britain in Asia whenever any difference shall arise between the two States in Europe. In the will which Peter the Great left to his successors, and which has dictated the policy of Russia i-der to wake suddenly in one of those panics to which our scorn of all precaution renders us so liable. Let us consider what steps we have taken in the course of nine years, to replace the Sipahi array which we tiieii destroyed. Have we made an3Mittempt to check future combinations by the introduction into our Indian army of foreign elements from Africa and Aral)ia? Have we absolute need for the enormous band of armed police with ndiich India is overrun ; or should we not be safer both in peace and in war with one-fourth of its present strength ? It l)ehoves us to give prompt consideration to these questions. Too nnich time has already been lost, and it is impossible to say how much more leisure may be allowed us. Before concluding this preface, I would wish to advert to the effect of this journal during the Crimean war. I had received much kind hospitality from the Russians during my passage through their country. It jrave me, therefore, much gratification to find my experience of the Russian people quoted against the rabid attempts of some journals of that day to sow hatred between two nations that had so long been allies, by imputing to the Russians the most barbarous cruelty to tlie wounded of the French and English armies. Assuredly if the mission to which this journal relates had produced no other benefit than to check such unfounded and mischievous prejudice, it would not have been in vain. December, 18G7. ADVERTISEMENT. Owing chiefly to the absence from England of the Author, when the Second Edition of this work was printed by Messrs. Madden &. Co., the typographical errors were so numerous, that it has been deemed advisable to reprint the 48th Chapter. The Map also, from the same cause, was omitted from the Second Edition, a deficiency now remedied. WHli TEN OM THE SHOUE OF TJIE CASPIAN, XllAUKlSM. A/Jril, 1840. ViCTOUlA ! — From thy thousand isles, Thy realms beyond the sea, Old ocean wreathes his brow in smiles. To bless, to welcome thee. — Tlirougliout each palace crystalline, Each far-resounding dome, With ocean-pearls the Naiads twine Their sea-green locks — they come; They come, light dancing o'er the Deep, As motes in sunny beam; In music o'er the waves they sweep, Victoria still their theme. Queen of the Isles, Cjueen of the Deep, Of Freedom, Valour, Beauty, C^ucen. Nf>TE. — Only two of tli« Rtiinzos wcro writttMi as (lilted, tin atfa< k it'coi-ilfd in tli<; .lonruul luivin;r iiinnciliuli'l v Inllowctl. VI No sceptre needs that lily hand, Bend but thy beauteous brow, Old Ocean's thunders shake the strand, They quell each haughty Foe. Forth the white-pinioned squadrons ily, Those eagles of the wave; The red-cross Banner streams on high Its beacon to the Brave. And at thy glance to light they leap, The war-blades bright and keen : Red roll the Floods, wild, curl, and sweep, Hoarse voices chime between — " Queen of the Isles! " Queen of the Deep ! " Of Freedom, Valour, Beauty, Queen." Blessings on Her, whose very name Breathed in the Scythian Wild, The Scythian's stony heart could tame, And free* sad Slavery's child! Britannia's name, till then unheard. With thine sweet union found : Old Oxus own'd the blest accord, And trembled at a sound. * See i)age 158, Vol. I. Jouiual. Then clank'd the riven chain : the Deep Gave up its dead: — and keen Leapt forth the prison'd fires. — They weep, They bless a power unseen, Queen of the Isles, Queen of the Deep, Of Freedom, Valour, Beauty, (^ueen. Victoria; bid thy standard wave^ Fling far each giant fold, Dropp'd with the pearls of ocean's cave, With India's gems and gold ! On that red cross the circling sun Ne'er sets: — and winds that blow, Shake from each fold a blessing down On some sad child of woe. O'er earth and wave, where'er its deep Dread shade of peace is seen, A Heaven on earth the Ransom'd keep, Starr'd in thy ray serene. Queen of the Isles, Queen of the Deep, Of Freedom, Valour, Beauty, Queen. But, when its thund'ruus folds are freed, When the fork'd fire-bolts glance, 'Mid w:uri(jr shouts and tramp of steeds, And ;_dcaia <»f serrieabk' Oiigiu of Colonel Stod- dart's Iinprisouments at Bokhara — Hopes of the Slaves at YooUattiun— Api)roach to Merv— Want of Courtesy of the Governor in my Reception — Tlic Jews of Merv and Meshed — Insulting Conduct of a Servant of the Governor — My first l^ir- ban— Visit to the Governor— Insulting Reception, its Oi-igin, and Motive — Preparations for the Passage of the Desert— Jew Merchants — Saspicious Circumstances — Conversation 2f Routes— An Oozbeg Chart of World — Relative Extent of tin- British and RuHsian Doininions — English Habits iv CONTENTS. rAGE. — Tho Kliook (II 111 its Varieties — My Unhappy Ignorance — Appology to tlio Tuscans — Necessity for foregoing all (Jeogra- phical Research, imposed by tho extreme Importance of my Mission, and the extreme Suspicion with which I was regarded — Another Audience — Meyendorfs Travels — Tho Air-giui — Dis- cussion of Routes — Impractibility of that by tho Ikilkaiui — Difficulties of the Orenburgh Route — Recommendation by the Khaun Iluzurut of that by ^lungh Kishlauk and Astrakan — Questions relative to Europe, Dress, Dwellings, Climate — Teles- copes, Astrology, Female Kings — Number of Cities, Russia, China . . ' 107 CHAPTER IX. Delay in my Mission, and my Impatience under it — Cro.ss Exa- mination upon Articles of Faith — Kawft" — Baub Ool Mandeb — People and Customs of Hindostauu — Mungh Kishlauk Guide — His Testimony — Another Audience — Inhabitants of the Ocean — Fish — Serpents — Submarine Sailing — Gun Vessels — Sea Fights — Towns in the Sea — Magic — Contrivances as wonderful in com- mon Use by the Bi-itish — Steam Looms — Mints — Telegraphs — Steam Vessels and Steam Can-iages — Our Well of Alchemy — Origin of the Ducat — Private Intelligence — Exti-emc Anxiety of the Khaun Huzurut to effect Colonel Stoddart's Release, and bring him to Khiva lit) CHAPTER X. Interview with the Mehtur — The Book-insolence of the Minister— My Resentment of it — Audience — Account of the Murdered Strangcr.s — Purchase of Ummeer Becg's Freedom — Minister's Love of Watches and of Calomel— The Air-gun — Paper Kite of Khaurism — Its Musical Properties— Its Mechanism . .129 CHAPTER XL "S^isit of an Afghaun Priest— Reports relative to Bokhara— Feast given by the Khaun Iluzurut— Arrangement of Guests— CONTENTS. XV PACK. Purgatory of Knees and Ankles — Persian Ambassador — Punish- ment of Dinnerodoxy — Inauk of liuzarusp — The Bee — An Oozbeg Dinner — Holy Ai'dour of the Priests — Accounted for upon Muhumraedmi Principles — Virtue of the Narr of Soups — Muttou, Spartan, Maigre, Chicken-broth, Ox-tail IMock-turtlo — Turtle 13G CHAPTER XH. ■Report of the Advance of the British Arms to Bulkh, and toward Tohrami — Prospect of my speedy Departure — Extreme Diffi- culty of procuring I^Ioney — Promises of Slu-offs and of the Minister equally false — Delay in transmitting ray Despatches — Private Cliannel established — Liberation of Ummeer Beeg — Nar- rative of his Capture and attempted Escape — ]\Iutilation of his Ears by Yakoob Mehtur — His Disposition to revenge the Injury — Release of Twenty-two of the Daughters of the Afghauns in honour of H. M. the Queen of Great Britain — Captain Pottingor's Rescue from Captivity of some Forty or Fifty Children . .14.') CHAPTER Xni. The Ummeer of Bokhara's Refusal to release Colonel Stoddart — Endeavour to make me solicit the Company', on my Mission, of an Oozbeg Ambassador — And to persuade me to prefer the Orenburgh Route — Private Intelligence — Presents for the Em- peror of Russia — An-angeraents for the Exchange of Captives — Reasonableness of the Khaun's Propositions — His extreme Anxiety, and evident Sincerity on this Point — His Amusement at the Motion of my Pen — And Curiosity respecting my Epau- lettes — His Majesty's Tribulation at my Want of aCocked Hat and Plume — Muhumniud Shauh — Dismi.s.sal — Revcillce of Ni/.aum, the Sleeper of Sleepers — Visit from a Relation of IJirdler Beeg — His Account of the Skinuish with Russia — Difficulty of raising Funds — Fresh Atteni[)t8 to make mo apply for an Oozbeg Am- bassador, and for Permission to proceed vift, Orenburgh — Dis- (■onccrtcd by a Discovery — Visit from the ]\Iinister — Renewal of those Ed'oKs — His happy Confidence in Dosiiny — Heroic .Si)irit. 10(1 ivi CONTENTS. 7A0E CHAPTER XIV. Departure of the Tersian Ambassador— Difficulty of procuring correct Intelligence— Inefficiency of my Establishment— Presence of the Persian Ambassador, how far useful to mo — Alarm occa- sioned by the Reports of the British Advance — Resolution of the Khaun to put down Slave-deahng — Final Audience — Subject of Change of Route renewed — The Guide Ilussun Mhatoor, chief of the Chowdhoors — Tlic Khaun 's Charge to him — To me — His Message to Her British Majesty — Importance to Europe at this Moment of the Kingdom of Khaurism — Parting Charge and Fare- v^-oU — Fruitless Endeavours to cash my Bills — Deceit and Trea- chorj' of the Mohtur — Inhospitality, Cleanness, and Cruelty of the Court — Quit Khiva in the almost certain Prospect of perishing in the Wilderness — Parting Instructions and Farewell to Um- mecr Beeg — Departure from Khiva 171 CHAPTER XV. Departure from Khiva— Palace of the Toorruh — Priggery of the Toorcumuns — Umbarr, an ancient Site — Report of gigantic Hu- man Bones — Dahsh IIowz — House of the Guide — His Obstinacy Message from the Mehtur — The great Mare's Nest — Its Origin — Journey resumed — Inhospitality of the Guide — Capture of a Russian Interpreter — My Objection to see him — Journey re- sumed — Reception at the Den of Thieves 185 CHAPTER XVI. Visits from Toorcumuns — Khail of Yahnioots — Dress of Toor- cumun Women —Fierceness of the Watch-dog.s — Visit to the Ruins of Old Oorgunj and to a Toorcumun Fair — Entertainment at a Khail — Cure of Jaundice — Toorcumun Dinner — Economy of a Toorcumun Tent — Dress of Cliildren — Ruined Fort Shoomauki — Deserted Bed of Oxus — Distant View of Oxus and the Lake Loudahn — Slaves — Cliffs of Chalk and Marl — Ruined Castle of Kohna Wuzecr — Of Burrasun Gelmus — Another Enchanted Cas- tle — Ibrahim Aat'h — Entrance to Kuzzauk Land — Distant View of the Channel occupied by the Oxus when it fell into the Gulf of Balkaun — Anecdotes of the Bahrukzye Chiefs . 201 CONTENTS. XVI 1 PAGE CHAFfER XYII. Chase of the wild Ass — ]Miry State of the Steppe — Intense Cold on on the higher Laud — Antelope of the Steppe — Dry Basin of a Lake — Pai-ticulai's of the Murder at Khiva of the two European Travellers and their five Servants — Manners of the Kara Kul- pauks and other Oozbegs — Character of the Coimtry — Chalk, CUffs, etc 216 CHAPTER XVIII. Rapacity of the Guide — Physiognomy of the Kuzzauks — Nizaum's extreme Amusement at the Sight of beardless Meu — The Dragon of Heraut — The Petrified Dragon of Cundahar — Existence of a Species of Boa amongst the Mountains of Aighaunistaun — Anec- dote of Shauh Kaumraun — Singular Fate of a Tent Mallet — Chalk Cliffs— Ku2zauks 227 CHAPTER XIX. Story of Hautim, the Arab — Face of the Country — Melancholy Pros- ])ects — Anecdote of the Ex-Ummeer Doost Muhummud Khaun — Some Account of the Descendants of Cyrus the Great — Herds of Galloways — Kuzzauks — Tlie Snake— All's Dream — Origin of Tobacco — Lawfulness of Pig-tail — Goat's Milk — Libert}' of the Fair Sex sometimes abused . . • 242 CHAPTER XX. Ferocity of Toorcumun Horses — Cliffs of Crystallized Lime — Ac- count of the Death of Futteh Khaun — Vuzcer of Heraut — Rc- aistlesH Power of Destiny — The Falcon aud the Crow — Porvurse- ncMH of Guide — Tent of Dana Bae, tho Kuzzauk — The Napkin of Khaurism — The Desert Bird 2.'>:j h .will CONTENTS. I'AGli ClIPATEK XXI. Cliffs of Slu'll Saiulstone — Ikiriiil-groiURl — First Olimpso of tho Ciuspiiui — Dillicultios suggested liy the tiiiidc — Entire Ab.scnco of IJoats — Des|>enite PoHture of my Affairs — Expedient suggested by tlie Guide — His Refusal to accoinpiuiy ine farther — Prospect of utter Ruin — Altornativos — I^asin and Cliffs of tho Caspian — False Rejjort of Sails in Sight — Signals — Resolution to proceed to Dahsli Cullah — Repetition of Signals — Their Fruitlessncss — Appearance of Dana Bae, the Kuzzauk — His Agreement to con- duct me — Announcement and De[iartui'C — Letter to the Khaun Huzurut — Suspicious Circumstances — Ruinous Ilul>its of my In- terpreter iiW CHAPTER XXII. Tiie Treacherous Messenger — Perplexities — Resolution to Return — How altered — Farther S}Tiii)toms of Trcachciy — Appearance of a Clump of Toorcumuu Horse — Bivouac iu the Rain — Symp- toms of Ti"eachery iu the Guide — Fresh Perplexities and Diffi- culties — Reach a Kuzzauk Tent — The Kuzzauk Bride — The Hyociia — Reach Dana Bae's Tent — Interchange of Spoons — Arrangements for the Journey — Greed of Dana Bae — His formid- able Oath — Dismissal of the Hyaena — Night in a Kuzzauk Tent — Journey resumed — Licessant Anxiety and Watchfulness — Arrive at a Chain of Mountains — The Black Russian Ambassador — Singular Weather-worn Rucks — Fresh Causes of Suspicion — Roach the Caspian 280 CHAPTER XXIII. A Rencontre — Its Residt — Hasten our March — Toilsome Ascent of the Cliffs of the Caspian — Suspicious Conduct of the Younger Guide — Bivouac at the Summit — Absence of the Younger f!uide — Meditations — Carelessness of my People threatening us with Ruin — Lighten the Camel Loads — Farther Prejmrations — Re- sumption of Journey — Ahris Mhatoor — Descent — Treacherous Conduct of the Younger Guide — Attempt to secure the Elder in my Interests — The Monk — Bivouac — Suspicious Action of Dana Bsie — The Alaiin — Tlie Night Attack — Residt — Reflections — The Interposition — Fate of Three of my Suite .... 296 CONTENTS. • XIX CHAPTER XXIV. Hilai'ity of the Young Guide — Tlie Lettei* — Scene — Consultations and Reports of the Kuzzauk Assailants — Night on the Field of Strife — Me«.Utations — Desperate Posture of my Affairs — Triumph of the Coward Yar Jtluhummud — State of my Party — Symptoms of a Move — Ahris, the Hero — Retrogi-ade j\Iovement — Helpless Condition of my ^Meerza — Our shattered and melancholy Caval- cade — Halt at Soosim Uttah — Summud Khaun's Sagacious Arrangement for our Safety — Spite of the Younger Guide — The Ciu'se of the Koraun— Arrival of Tents — Arrangements for our Disposal — Yar !Muhummud and the Tempter — First Repast as Captives — Soft Flattery in an unknown Tongue — Character of Ahris Mhatoor — The Covenant — Night Alarms —Varieties of Death — Second Night of our Captivity 31 G CHAPTER XXV. Captiu-e of Iklaimood and Ali Muhummud — Consultations of our Captoi-s — Third Night of Captivity — Further Consultation — Harassing Demands — Division of Booty — The Blandishments of Beauty out of her Teens — Sentiment of Sheep's Tails — Delicacy and S}Tnpathy of Kuzzauk Women — Misery of our Position this Day — The poor Meerza's View of the Case — Further Partition of Spoils — Recovei-y of the Royal Presents — Rape of the Cloak and the Kerchief — Three of my Smte taken off as Slaves — Rescue of Nizaum — Survey of Summud Khaiui — State of my Wounds — New Guide to ^lecca — Lamentable Want of Religious Fury amongst the Kuzzauks 329 CIIAITER XXVI. Emhanussment of Ahris Mhatoor — Considerations — Tlio scotched Snakes — Fiilelity of Cherkush — The Bond — The Negotiator — Tlie Shippish — Sensation ho produces in London — Whether he acknowledges the Emperor of all the RuKKiu.s — Liking of a Kuz- zauk for Nizaum — Me.s.senger from Hussun Mliatoor — News from Dulish Ciullah — Valuation of plundered Property — Tlio (Jolilen IJanqtict— Shift Camp — Virtue of Patience — Golden Colic . . 339 XX co^'TE^•Ts. PAGE CHAPTER XXVII. Hopelessness of our Prcilicamont — Ali Muhuuiniud's Project — ^The Afghiuin HorHoiiu-n — Congnvtuliitions of a Bear — Apparition of Saloli iluhunniuul — GrcctingH — Rucapitulation — The Search — Confabulations — Happy Disposition and bright Mind of Saleh Mubunmuid — Consultations — Joy of my Party — Confusion of Enemies — Ummeer Beeg — Delicacies unknown to lleliogabalus — The Tit-bit 308 PrxELDimAEY RE^IMKS. TyHEX Major Todd, in June, 1839, arrived as Envoy at Heraut, he selected Moolla Hussun, a Mahomedan priest of great respectability, as bearer of a letter of friendship to the Khaun Huzurut (Supreme Lord) of Khiva, called also Khaurism Shauh, or King of Khaurism. Moolla Hussun arriv-^ ing at Khiva when the state was threatened with a Russian invasion, was well received, and on his return was accompanied by an Oozbeg lord, ShookkurooUa Bae by name, as ambassador from the Khaun Huzurut to the Indian government. The letter borne by this ambassador accepted of the tender of British friend- ship, and made several demands which could not be complied with upon the responsibility of Major Todd. It was in answer to this mission that the envoy deputed me to visit the court of Khiva. Tlie news brought by the Khiva ambassador rated the Russian force at 100,000 fighting men, who were said to be still in the Kuzzauk country, north-west of the sea of Anil. In return for the envoy's present of a very handsome rifle, he sent a very sorry specimen of tlie boMst of Kliaurisni, in sliape of a brokt-ii-down nag. This, liowever, had prol)al)ly Ijeen substituted XXii ITvELnilNARY REMARKS. by the minister for the liorse originally sent. The presents entrusted to my care were a Persian sabre and a Ilcraut rifle for the Kliaun himself; a rifle for his brother, the Inauk of Iluzariisp; and a matchlock rifle for the Governor of YooUataun. The royal pre- sents were very unworthy of the occasion ; but the Ih'itisli Toshehkhaneh* had been exhausted, and as I was to ride chuppah (post), my haste to present my- self before his Majesty was to serve as an excuse for their poverty. Such trifling particulars throw light upon the manners and customs of a country : it is also but justice to myself to state (so far as political considerations will allow) the very trifling means I had of conciliating favour. The kingdom of Khaurism is separated from the Russian district of Orenburgh by a considerable belt of steppe, held by Kuzzauks, whose chief, or Sooltaun, is nominally tributary to Russia. The Russians call this people Kirgheez,f to distinguish them from their o^yll Kuzzauks, or Cossaqs, who are Christians, but the name is unknown to the people themselves. Khaurism is bounded on the west by the Caspian, on the south-west by Persia and lieraut, on the south- east by Bokhara, on the north-east by Kokaun. The present capital of Khaurism is Khiva, lying in N. lat. 41'' 20', and E. long, about 60", and about * With each British mission in Central Asia Is a magazine of rare articles and dresses of honour, intended as presents to sovereigns and nobles, or rewards for the ser\nce8 of others. t Kirgheez signifies those who dwell in Khiirgah, or tents of felt derived, say the Russians, from Khui-, an ass, and Gab, a place — the place of the ass, or ass' stable. It is probable that this is the real origin of the Peraian word, given in derision by the Persians to their foe.s the Tai-tars. PRELIMINARY REMARKS. XXUl forty miles west of the Oxus. It therefore bears from Heraut about north-north-west, and is distant from it, by the road, something less than 600 miles, of which, after passing the mountain barrier of Heraut, nearly the whole is a barren steppe, where even a tent is rarely discovered. The former capital was Oorgunj, and two towns of this name have successively enjoyed the dignity. A country so cut off from the rest of the world by wide steppes, whose rare inhabitants are plunderers and slave-dealers by profession, was too little known to be correctly designated; accordingly, Khaurism is a title with which few are familiar, whilst the capitals Oorgunj and Kliiva have in turn given their names to a kingdom which, whatever its wealth and political im- portance, is at least sufficiently extensive. Khaurism is about 800 miles in length, north and south, by nearly 600 east and west, comprising an area of nearly 480,000 square miles. It is of much importance to bear in mind, that Bokhara is entirely severed from Eussia by Khaurism. The latter kingdom joining Kokaun in the desert, about 360 miles east of Khiva. The greater part of Khaurism (as its Persian name implies), viz., all that is west of the Oxus, belonged to ancient Persia. The descendants of the Persians are still existing under the name of Sart. They are known by their beards, a distinction for the sake of which the Oozbegs, the present lords of the empire, frequently condescend to intermarry with them. Tlie Toorcumuns who inhabit the steppe between Khiva and the Caspian are more particular; and accordingly beards arc rarely seen amongst them. Tiic Kiizzaiiks, whoso country extends fr( »iii the nortlicrnniost limit XXIV TRELIMINARY REMARKS. of Khaurism to ;in irre;^ailar line from the south of the Sea of Aral, drawn west-south-west to the Cas- })iaii, would in turn be despised by the more polished iSart. The presence therefore of a beard in a Toor- cumun or Kuzzauk khail (camp) may n:enerally be traced to some Persian slave of the family. And if we consider the extreme value and importance to the nations of Asia of an appendage by which they swear, and upon which they pray, we may appreciate the strength of the temptation under which it has been introduced into any household. Mi-xsrs. Smith, Elder & Co. are in no way responsible for the error, corrected as below. EKRATA, VOL. I. ABBOTT'S KHIVA. rage X., line 18,/ut up in the camp itself to observe the manners of the [Xiople; but, out of I'espect i'or me, they brought a tent bodily to the sjjot where I was seated. Tlie 10 TRANSLATION OF FORTY VIRGINS. women were the chief locomotives ; and, being inside, the tent appeared to have found legs of its own. One of these womi'n was jjretty, and the fair sex here seem to have tiie advantage of the men in features and com- plexion. However, there are many slave girls of other nations present, and the females whom I meet are probably of this class. In the morning resuming my course down the river valley 1 passed a scene resembling that of the previous day. A couple of mud huts near the left border of the valley were shewn me as the residence of forty Oozbeg virgins; and a little rude altar or tomb under the hills, as the place of worship to which they had resorted, when surprised by a force of some neigh- bouring tribes. In this extremity, the virgins prayed for death, and were instantly translated ; but whether by men or spirits does not appear. The translation of forty fat virgins is nothing to a jMoosulmaun's faith ! The Toorcumun horses would have found it practically no joke. The place is called Chhehl Doch- tur, or "the forty virgins." The tradition, as well as name, is evidently Persian. Kara Tuppah, the black mound, was now in sight, being an artificial hill about 150 feet in height, crowned by a ruined circle of defences. It stands in the elbow of the valley, overlooked by lofty hills on the west. The bend of the valley is very wide, and Kara Tuppah Avas not only girdled by black tents, but crowded by caravans from Merv proceeding with oTain for Khooshk. Here Muhummud Zemaun Khaun's servant was to leave me, after lurnishmg the escort of ten Jumsheedee horsemen. But I had been pondering the necessity of employing these men. It struck me, that as they would hold themselves in au- thority to Peer Muhummud Khaun, I should literally become his prisoner, and he might dispute my orders when directed to return. Some excuse for dispensing with their services was necessary. I first objected to the number on the score of provision. A smaller number, PEER MUHUMMUD KHAUN. 11 they said, could not venture to return by that route, owing to a death feud between Muhuinmud Zemaun Khaun and the children of Derveish Khaun, late chief of the Junisheedees, and slain by the present chief. " But I have no death feud with the children of Der- veish Khaun, and if ten Jumsheedee horsemen who have^ and who are the most arrant cowards in the world, can return alone, surely we, who can muster four good sabres, can have nothing to apprehend." It must be observed that Peer ]\Iuhummud Khaun, after receiving from the British Treasury allowance for himself and five troopers, had brought not one fighting man with him. I called the chief's servant, gave him a handsome present, and a note to his master, saying, that I did not require the escort; and having dis- missed him passed on. Beyond Kara Tuppah there are few black tents: but large flocks of sheep are still met with. The shep- herds come even from Merv to tliis pleasant valley, brino;ino; water and all other necessaries on asses. The men of Kara Tuppah hate the authority of the pre- sent chief; and beyond this limit no Jumsheedee of his following presumes to dwell. It was my object to keep Peer Muhummud Khaun constantly engaged in discourse, for various reasons. It gave him an idea of my favour and confidence; it improved my miserable Persian; and, as I generally turned the conversation upon the persons composing the Court at Heraut, it served to disclose to me his own character, even when it failed to reveal to me theirs. There was not a person, however insignifi- cant, nor act however trivial, that was not made sub- ject of discussion, and, by returning again and again to the charge, and placing each j)()int in a novel light, J made it extremely diilieult i'ur him to prevai-icate without detection. 1 knew that all liis iuture pros- pects depended u[)on his accompanying nic to Khiva, and that 1 might depend \\\nm any trilling saei-ificc that should give him hope of tliis: and as it was his 12 ANECDOTES. own, as well as tlie Vuzecr's wish that I should sup- pose hiin a personal enemy of the latter, he was not scrupulous in revealing his iniquities. At the same time, as he could not tell how nmch was known to me, lie dared not very grossly violate the truth. But sometimes the conversation took a lighter turn, and to-day we had a variety of imecdotes as credible as the relations of the great liar Josephus. The scorpion of Teshawur, he said, is of great size, and its wit is equal to its bulk. A gentlemsm of that city lying one morning upon his bed, with his hand hanging down, saw a portly fellow approach the hand, squint up at it, and then standing a tip-toe, endea- vour to sting it. Failing in his attempt, the scorpion went away, but soon after returned with another, whom the gentleman supposed, from a certain " Je ne sais quoi," might be his wife. Mounting upon her back he made several fresh eiforts to reach the hand, but in vain. Far from being disconcerted, off he trudfjed a^ain, returnin<2: now with his wife and wife's mother. He placed the latter below, the wife on her back, and standing upon wife's shoulders would in- evitably have stung the gentleman, had he not in good time withdrawn his hand. Peer ]\Iuhummud Khaun had heard, he said, of a house in England opened once a year for the recep- tion of letters, and where they who were so fortunate as to gain admittance, were bound by the most solemn oaths to reveal nothing they should see or hear. That the knowledge there revealed to them in a single hour, surpassed the joint knowledge and experience acquired by fifty sages in the course of a long life. This evidently is Freemason's Hall. The old Meerza striking in, related, that a poor man having nothing to present to Timoor Lungh,^ brought him the thigh of a grasshopper, saying, "Behold thine * Better known in Europe as Tamerlane. Lungh signifiefe lame, and Timoor alone is the proper name of this king. In Asia he is generally called the Ummir Timoor. CHUMMUNIE BHAYD. 13 ant, Timoor, lintli brought thee according to the measure of his capacity.'' This anecdote has for foun- dation the tradition that Kinoj Solomon havino- been placed by the Almighty in sovereignty of men, de- mons, and the brute creation, was receiving theii* voluntary tribute, when the Court was a good deal amused at seeing an ant enter, dragging along the tliigh of a grasshopper, which it deposited at the mo- narch's feet with evident complacency. The elephant turned up his nose, and the hya3na laughed outright at this mighty addition to the royal treasure; for the one had brouglit him on its back a budding aloe tree, and the other a rich necklace, rent from the throat of a young maiden, whom he had surprised and slaughtered at her mother's tomb. But Solomon sternly rebuked either, declaring that none that day had honoured him, as he felt honoured by the little ant. "A particular friend of mine," said Peer Muhum- mud Khaun, "was one day chasing a fox upon the hill side, when suddenly a snake struck his dog, which instantly swelled to an immense size and began to shake violently. What was the amazement of my friend to see the flesh and skin fall to tatters, and scatter by the shaking on every side, leaving a \:ery perfect skeleton of the dog, which my friend preserved, and still shews as a great curiosity." " The venom of some snakes," I rephed, "is very virulent." Toward evening, we reached a spot fitted for en- campment, about two miles short of Kullah Chum- munie Bhayd. The jungle grass was liere on fire, and a large liock of perhaps 1000 sheep, guarded by three she})herds, stood near. We asked tliem to sell us a youTig sheep. They bargained to exchange it for a little tobacco, which one of my servants pro- duced. They long refused, but at length acce})ted the money J forced upon them. The proper j)rice was five tungas, or about one and nine pence, but an En^jlishman is never satisfied until he has paid doublf. 14 SLAVE- DEALING. Leaving this spot at daybreak, we again followed the Khooshk rivulet. The seeiie eontiniied unchanged, excejuing perhaps that not a human dwelling was visible. Large flocks of white sheep still sprinkled the hills oil either side, but those hills were growing more arid and sandy as we advanced. Tlie castle of Chummunie Bhayd is ruined and deserted. Jt pre- sented a fine effect in the haze of the morning, guarding witli its ragged ramparts the passage of the valley. A few miles further, are the ruins of another castle called Howzi Kliaun, or " tlie cistern of the chief." In a plain near tliis ruin was ibuglit, a few years since, tlie battle between Derveish Khaun, late chief of the Jumsheedees, and the Iluzaruhs assisted by Mahomed Zemaun Khaun; Derveish Khaun was slain, and Mahomed Zemaun Khaun instated in his authority. Hence the death feud between the latter and tlie children of the former. The Meerzah assured me that at Khooshk he had seen within the Khaun's enclosure no less than twenty Toorcumuns waiting to purchase the slaves of Heraut as the Jumsheedees bring them in. One of these Toorcumuns was return- ing in disgust, and had joined my party. He had been offered only two slaves for his horse, a very fine one, which I have since purchased for 30 ducats, or 15/. Slaves, therefore, are tolerably cheap. The valley of Heraut, already nearly depopulated by the late Persian invasion, is thus daily deprived of the slender means possessed of recruiting its exhausted numbers. It is natural to incpiire what can induce the Vuzeer to a measure of such insane folly. The question has long puzzled me. My late conversations with Peer Muhummud Khaun have, 1 believe, fur- nished a solution. The Vuzeer, previous to the Per- sian invasion, had possessed himself of all but the shadow of the supreme authority. In another month or two he would certainly have deposed Shauh Kauni- raun, and have usurj)ed his place. Such views, how- ever suspended by circumstances, are never wholly SABRES. 15 relinquished; and Yar Muliummud Khaun, having his relations in every important post in the kingdom, is apprehensive only of the opposition of the tented tribes. These he conciliates at every risk of present damage to the state, as well as by profuse liberality. Every rare sword or other costly article that falls in his way he sends to these chiefs, and great part of their wealth being amassed in kidnapping, he winks at the practice, though sensible of its pernicious conse- quences. Peer Muhummud Khaun was shewing me his sword yesterday. It is an Isfahaunie sabre, of rather coarse workmanship. I asked him what was the highest price he had ever known to be given for a blade. He said that the Vuzeer had possessed one purchased for 9,000 Heraut rupees, or about 300/., and that he had oiven it to the Beeo^ler Beeo; of the Huzaruhs. That good blades are now very rare in Heraut, and perhaps confined to the ro3^al treasury. "What constitutes the goodness and value of a blade in your eyes ?'' " It must be finely shaped, finely watered, and handsomely moutited." " But do you subject it to no test ?" " None at all." '' And if it Ijreak in battle ?" " It is our destiny." I explained to him the proofs to wliich we subject our blades in Europe, and also those employed in Hindoostan, and shewed him my own sword, making him observe its elasticity. " But," said he, " it has no water /" ''No! It was made for use, and not for display; your weajKjns are toys, ours are instruments. AV^e go to battle to hght, not to play; and would give nothing for a blade, however liandsome, tliat would expose us to the mercy of an antagonist. I once proved one ol" your iinely watered blades upon a steel lielmet. It shivered at the first l)Iow. Vonr own blade, you 16 BAUD-KIIIRS. perceive, has no elasticity. It is bent, and at present useless. In battle, should it meet another sword, it would either turn in your liand like a j^iece of lead, or snap in lialves." In fact, I have "iven much attention to the subject, and am convinced that in this country notliing is known of the real excellence of a sabre. The grain of the Isfaliaunie blade is infinitely coarser than that of the Damascus blade. Tlie foi'iner is very inferior in finish, has a dull, round edge, intended to resist the shock with armour, and has no elasticity. It is too crooked for single combat. We now quitted the district called Raukiss, which may be Baudkhiss the Windy, or Baughiss, the Eastern name of Ihicchus. The name of the succeed- in o- district is Mowree,* and here we found the ruined castle, Kullah-i-Mowr, having still one wretched cell capable of sheltering a traveller. An extensive Kawreeze in the middle of the valley remains to attest its former high state of culture, and suggests the notion, that in other days the waters of the rivulet were expended in irrigation, ere they could reach Kullah-i-Mowr; at present this valley harbours not a liviu"- soul. We met not less than six or seven cara- vans of grain from Merv. At this castle commences the kingdom of Khaurism. I was weak enough to yield to the entreaties of my people, and put up for the night in a reed jungle. \\e were scarcely settled, when one of them came to report having seen two horsemen mount the high ground above us, and after a careful scrutiny of our camp, retire. I sent a couple of my horsemen to reconnoitre, and prepared for the worst. They soon returned with news that the horsemen belonged * It is cimous to meet together the names of Bacchus and of his l)irth-placf, Meroo or Meros. It is certain that this tract was overrun by Alexander and his armies ; but Arrian and others place Mount Meros and Nnsa between the Indus and Koophun or Soondi. — R. TOOKOUMUN KIT AIL. 17 to a caravan, niid the}' brought one of tliem before me. The night passed without accident, and starting with daylight, we tracked the Khooshk until its valley is lost in that of the Moorghaub. or Awb-i-Mowr. AVe then ascended the latter river to the largest Khail, or camp of Punj Deeh; passing the ruined vineyard and deserted fields of a once populous and cultivated district. My guide, the Birdler IJeeg, who was once petty governor here, was now quite in his ele- ment. He sent a man ahead to apprize the Khetkhoda that a guest had arrived; and a horseman, well mounted, soon approached, quitted his saddle, and took my right hand in both his own, saying, " You are welcome; you are very welcome." We followed him to the Khail, where about three hundred black tents of the Yahmoot Toorcumuns were pitched, in the form of two hollow squares ; and 1 soon perceived one of these tents walking bodily towards me. The Khetklioda, a tall, sawny, miserably -looking fellow, here made me welcome with a second edition of hand- joining; and, spreading a handsome carpet on the earth, begged me to be seated, until my habitation should be ready. I did so, and soon perceived that we were surrounded by a crowd of curious faces, all decidedly Tartar, yet not generally uncomely. The softness of the eyes, opening with lids equally arched, gives a feminine, and therefore not unpleasing, expres- sion to the countenances of the children, who are sometimes fair as Juiropeans. Two or three little girls wore a red cap tricked witli gold and silver ornaments, fantastic, but exceed- ingly becoming; but no adults of the fairer sex ap- peared. As the old Klictkhoda and several others understood Persian, we got on tolerably well toge- ther, and in about hall" an hour, the tent was ready f<^r my rece[>ti()ri, and 1 was escorted to it in due form. I iouiid the i\nnv .^|.r< ad with fiiu; carpets, lli<' iii:iini- voi.. [. !• 18 GUESTS AND NEIGnBOUUS. factiirc of the Khail. One of tlicso had almost the softness of velvet, and would have sold elsewhere for a hi^h price. These Tooreiunun tents are the most comfortable of dwellings in this serene climate. A house cannot be adapted to the vicissitudes of heat and cold which mark the year. Whereas l)y removing a portion of the felt covering, this tent is open to the air in summer; and in winter a iire lighted in the centre makes it the warmest of retreats, all the smoke rising through the skylight in the roof. Not to men- tion the great advantage of being .able to migrate, dwelling and all, to a sunny or a sheltered spot. An unforeseen dithculty now occurred. I required four days' supply of provisions for my people and cattle. Being a guest, I was forbidden to purchase these, and could not possibly accept them ! I made my Meerza represent to the Khetkhoda thiit unless he would consent to regard me as a neighbour, and not a guest, I must quit his Khail and pitch elsewhere. After some demur, my request was complied with ; and Summud Khaun, my steward, came to report his success in bargaining. I desired him not to bargain with men who were treating us so liberally, but to give them whatever they might demand. Presently afterwards in came Summud Khaun, and with a wink of the eye, asked whether it were my pleasure to give the price of a camel for a sheep? " Certainly not," I replied. " Then," said he, "you must allow me to bargain." Jn fact, the scruple as to guestsliip once removed, each vied with the other to overreach me. Evening- was now closing in; my host had left me, but Peer Muhummud Khaun still lingered. 1 had now satisfied myself, beyond any reasonable doubt, that he was sent to countermine me at Khiva, and that he had des- patches from the Yuzeer to both the governor of Merv and the minister at Khiva. I therefore no lonjrer hesitated to blight his hopes, or to deprive myself of the most agreeable of companions. I had allowed him PEER MUHUMMUD KHAUN. 19 to fancy himself a great and growing favourite, as by that means I was enabled to pump him the deeper ; for I knew that it was worth his while to tell me all he knew, if he could by this means persuade me to take him on to Khiva. I now suddenly ad- dressed him — " Peer Muhummud Khaun, this is the Khiva terri- tory, — I require your escort no farther. You will return to-morrow morning to Heraut." He was thunderstruck ; and it was long before he could utter a word. When he recovered, he pleaded hard, but to no purpose; excepting that I gave him a note for the British Envoy, begging that all his ex- penses might be made good to him, provided all should go right with my mission at Kliiva; for I was still apprehensive that he would find means to send on his despatches. c 2 1>0 CHAPTER IT. The Tent of Plenty of the Yiiliinoot — Gift-IIorscs — A Toorcumun Breakfast — The Sawny Old Khctkhoda — Peer Muhummud Khaun's Farewell — Extraordinary Power of Yar Muhiinmuid Khaun over his Agents — Valley of the Moorghaub — Junction of the Khooshk Rivulet with that River — Visit from a Panther — Approach to Yoollatauu — Reception there by the Governor — Distrust of the Relations between England and Russia — Presents — Muhummud Aumeen Beg — Tlie Ziinnuk — Departure — The old Cauzie of Youllataun — Prol)able Origin of Col. Stoddart's Imprisonment at l>okhai'a — Hopes of the Slaves at Yoollatauu — Approach to IMei-v — Want of Courtesy of the Governor in my Reception — The Jews of JMerv and Meshed — Insulting Conduct of a Servant of the Governor — My first Tui'ban — Visit to the Governor — Insulting Reception, its Origin and Motive — Preparations for the Passage of the Desert — Jew Merchants — Suspicious Circumstances — Conversation. JANUARY 1st, 1840.— It was scarcely light, when I observed the curtain of my door moved from time to time, to admit a pair of curious eyes. I therefore threw it up, and soon had a full assembly of rustic figures, in lamb-skin caps, coarse woollen cloaks, and half boots of chmisy shape, secured with thongs of leather. Among the rest came two servants of tlie Merv governor, plain quiet-looking felloAvs, whose huge cylindric caps of black lamb-skin denoted their pretensions to rank. After due salutation the company was seated in a circle around the tent, and I observed that Birdler Beeg took a seat above the governor's people. He was here quite in his element; and his extreme good nature showed to advantage. He chat- tered alternately in Toorkish and in Persian, He grinned, he laughed, he asked whether the tents of plenty of the Ynhmoot were not better than the house GIFT HORSES* 21 of fomine of the Jumsheedee. The two cylhidric- hatted gentlemen sate in profound silence, looking their dullest. I called for tea, and having but a single goblet, sent it in turn to the several guests as they were ranged. Presently, in came a Fuqueer, and with a merry countenance, and an abundance of compli- ment, asked for alms. I gave him a few tungahs, or silver coins, upon which he stood up and formally prayed for my prosperity, in which all present made the usual signal of joining, by presenting the spread hands in front of them, and then collecting from their beards the drops of grace supposed to fall in answer. " It is as the precious ointment which flowed down upon the beard, even Aaron's beard, and went unto tlie skirts of his raiment." The Fuqueer then departed in great glee. Just as he reached the door, the clown sitting near it gave him a tremendous thump on the back, and a thunder- peal of laughter. This, in an English cottage, would have been sufficiently characteristic. A tall fellow now insisted upon my acceptance of a horse; his neighbour pressed upon me another, and all begged I would step out and examine the offi^rings. After a thousand excuses, I was obliged to comply, and found no less than three fine horses waiting my acceptance. The owners mounting them, displayed their paces, and then again pressed them upon me. 1 replied that it was not the custom of my country to accept presents without making some return, and that 1 was a traveller, and unprovided with means. " Never mind," said the tall fellow, " you shall liave my horse, and I will take nothing in return." " But," 1 said, " what am 1 to do with so many horses on a journey; horses arc an encumbrance to a stranger ?" " But you are not a stranger. This is your home, and your country;" replied the sawny old Khet- khoda. " I low would it answer," insinuated Peer Mulium- nnid Khaun, " to give me one of the horses /" 22 YAIIMOOT HOSPITALITY. I replied that he must wait the result of my mission. Finding it impossible to escape, I accepted one horse, and gave the owner a note to the Envoy at Heraut, begging him to give the Toorcumun an equivalent. The hospitality of Toorcunmns is a sacred form, in which the heart has no concern. They were well pleased with my arrangement; neitlier ami certain that but for some expectation of the kind, they would ever have been so free with their gifts. The ])irdler Beeg was one of this tribe, and extremely anxious that I should form a favourable opinion of his people, as well as of his influence amongst them; and I have no doubt that he incited them to present their horses by his tales of British liberality. The horses presented were a huge chestnut of clumsy figure, which all my servants fell in love with, size being every thing in their eyes ; a strong, well-com- pacted white horse, with dark points; and a delicately formed grey, about ISg hands high, having an ex- quisite head and neck, and showy paces. The back sinews of this horse were so distant from the bone, that at first sight I pronounced them to be strained, and it was only after minutest scrutiny that 1 be- lieved the Birdler Beeg's assurance, that this is a pe- culiarity of the breed, and a supposed excellence in the eyes of Toorcumuns. I selected this horse. We adjourned to my tent, and sate a while in discourse. The Toorcumun whose horse I had not taken was a little vexed. " I ofixired you," he said, " a nmch finer horse than the grey; but you refused him." '^ I am a traveller," I replied, " what could I do with so many horses ? " He took up one of my pistols. "I have got a pair of flint and steel pistols, would you like to see them?" I assented, and he produced a miseral)le little pair of pocket pistols, which I Avell remembered to have been presented to Ubdoolla Sooltaun, one of the Jumsheedce chiefs. " Here," he said, slapping them down upon the carpet, with an [issumption of DISINTERESTEDNESS. 23 frank generosity that was very amusing, " you shall accept these, — you shall." I declined, however, most decidedly, and just then breakfast was announced. It consisted of macaroni made in the Khail, not fluted, but rolled into broad thin cakes, and cut into thongs by the women, with their husbands' swords. It was stewed with kooroot and milk, and some of the sweet syrup of grapes. It was by no means unpalatable, but a huge wooden ladle, the sole article of the kind procurable, disconcerted all attempts on the part of Peer Muhummud Khaun, to eat it without treason to his magnificent beard. As I had a tea-spoon of my own, I contrived matters pretty well. After this, some stews of mutton and bread were produced. I then rose to take leave. A little boy was hanging about the Khetkhoda: "Is that," I inquired, "your young thing (Buchchha) ?" " He is my son (pisr)," replied old Sawny, The distinction is very important in these countries. Another child was mounted upon the Khetkhoda's horse. Thinking this must also be his son, I was about to slip two ducats into the boy's hand, but asked first, "Is that also your son?" "Naugh!" grunted old Sawny, in evident j^erturba- tion. We proceeded. The Khetkhoda kept close to my side, and, v/atching his opportunity, brought his knee close to mine, and asked in a whisper, " What have you told to be given for the horse?" " What is he worth?" I inquired in return. "llah!" said the fellow with an abrupt shy, " AVliat is he worth : what is he worth?" 'J'he liirdler Beeg coming up, whispered mysteri- ously that tlie agents of the Governor ot" iMcrv ex- pected a present of at least a cloak. I excused myself as being a traveller, and at that moment utterly un- provided. I now begged tlie Toorcunuins not to accompany me farther, and took leave in due form, at a small stream. However, whilst our horses were drinking, I observed that the Klutklioda was still present, and mysteriously whispering the iVirdler 24 THE EVIL GENIUS. Beeg. Tlie latter coining up, announced the purport to be a reminiscence of my intended gift to liis cliild. " I do not perceive the ehihl here," I rejilied, lyolving round. " No!" said the Khetkhoda, " but 1 can give him the money." I took out the two brightest ducats and presented them, saying tliey might serve as or- naments to his child's head. He perused them long, and with evident satisfaction. Something, distantly related to a grin, drew up the right corner of his mouth, contrasting oddly with his habitual sawny sneer. I saw that our friendship was nothing the less ; but it was a strange commentary upon the supposed disinterestedness of these wild tribes. Peer Muhummud Khaun rode very disconsolately at my side. " You have at lengtii thrown otf," he said, " your evil genius. You are as a man who has been haunted by an unclean spirit through the wilderness, and who, reaching at length to a place of fountains, by prayer and lustration, rids himself of the fiend." The simile was singularly apposite; Yar Muhummud Kliaun had sent this man to be my evil spirit at Merv and Khiva. Had I not suspected his views, my ruin had been certain. A man of this kind, a creature of the Vuzeer, is believed to have contrived the plot to which Colonel Stoddart is still a victim. Peer Muhumnmd Khaun was eminently qualified for his part. Of the most gentlemanly address, the most pleasing and insinuating manners, he never for an in- stant forgot his place, but was always watchful and attentive. Then his intelligence supplied half the words my vocabulary wanted, and he seemed the very person requisite upon my forlorn expedition, to give me hints of the customs of the people with whom 1 was to dwell, and maintain decorum amongst the rest of the establishment. But there was one fatal draw- back to all this, — he was the tool of the Yar Mu- hummud Khaun, Vuzeer of Heraut. The iellow had contrived to gain such a share of my interest, that I found myself devising a thousand VUZEER OF HEHAUT. 25 little schemes for retaiiiinf^ hira, could I but purchase his allegiance, and make him my own by present liberality and future prospects. 1 remembered, how- ever, too many instances of such attempts proving dead failures.* Whatever the means employed by the Vuzeer for securing his instruments, it had hitherto proved most effectual. They often hated him, they were assailed by hopes and prospects on the other side; yet they I'aithfully served him. Not an instance to the contrary had occurred, although very many such were pretended. In nothing did the genius of the man stand more pre-eminent than in this — that hated and regarded by his countiymen as a monster of iniquity, none dared to betray him; and whilst our Envoy could offer the most unlimited pros- pects of advancement for faithful service, and no pro- mise of the Vuzeer, even when made, could be relied on, every attempt to win over to our side the instru- ments of the Vuzeer had been a failure. I had ques- tioned Peer Muhummud Khauu upon this secret power of the Vuzeer. He said that ere he entrusted any agent, he got him over to his quarters, and made him swear solemnly upon the Koraun to be faithful to him; but I could not learn what particular solemnity ren- dered this oath upon the Koraun more binding than others, which the natives of the country are con stantly breaking, nor was the explanation otherwise sufficient. It seemed, however, sufficiently certain, that Peer Muhummud Khann would not have been entrusted "svith his present mission, were there any • This subject Las occupied much of my attention ; and I am inclined to think that the extraordinaiy iuscendaiice of the Vuzeer was main- tained by the conviction lie contrived by liis agents to impress ui)()ii all classes, and which certainly was in operation from the hour of our arrival at Ileraut, that the instant our treasure was expended lie would exclude the mission from his walls ; whilst this feeling prevailed, none would unreservedly embrace liritish interests. This note and its text were printed in 1811, i)ublished in 1h43. I need not say that the tragedy has since been acted out, tliat ius soon iih Var Muhuninuid Khauii haresent asked, ''Have you ever been at war with l{ussiaV" When I replieil in the negative, lie shook 80 MUHUMMUD AUMEEN BEERG. his head. This suspicion of our jealousy beinf^ a pre- tence, ori_o;i nates witli the Vuzeer Yar Mnlminmud Khaun, who, anxious to prevent an alliance between the liritish and Khiva, has taken this method of dis- concerting it. Previous to my arrival here, I had been in some perplexity about the presents I had in charge, viz. three rifles and a sal^re. I thought one of these must needs be intended for the governor of Merv; and if so, none was left for Muhummud Aumeen Beeg, for whom, nevertheless I had a strong notion that some- thing had been sent. Having no means of solving my perplexity, I determined to let the notes explain themselves, and accordingly gave the Beeg his letter from Major Todd, and another sent him by the prince Muhummud Yoosuph. Both were carried off to be read and translated to the Beeg, whilst I continued to chat with those left in the tent. Presently the Beeg returned, bringing with him an old gentleman, the Cauzie or Judge of Yoollataun. The excessive politeness of this worthy, assured me that he had some mischief in view. The Beeg's face also was full of busy importance, and a kind of dogged resolution that boded me no good. The Cauzie produced the letters I had just delivered. The Beeg desired him to read them aloud. He did so, and 1 was pleased and relieved to find that one of the rifles was intended for Muhummud Aumeen Beeg. " Now," said the Cauzie after a deep pause, "the Envoy says he has sent the Beeg a rifle. Where is the rifle? Let us see the rifle." It was evident that all present thought I had intended to defraud the Beeg. I could scarcely forbear laughing, but calmly ordered the gun to be produced. The Beeg seized it as if in terror that it might yet escape him. He tore off the cloth case, and examined it with intense scrutiny. When he came to the lock and found a matchlock, he muttered, as if he thought I had palmed off upon him some inferior article. THE ZUNNUK. 3 I On my first arrival at the tent, Avhilst sitting in a circle with niy entertainers, a seiTant had brought in my holster pistols, and some other articles, -which I had hastily made him carry away, lest he should disturb the company. This had evidently excited the suspicion of the Beeg ; for he now said, " the prince Muhummud Yoosuph informs me that Major Todd has sent me a brace of pistols ; but I do not see them." "His information was not good," I replied; "the Envoy had intended to send you a brace of pistols instead of a matchlock, but Cauzie Moollah Hussun assured him that they would not be vakicd, as the}' were destitute of ornament," " The Cauzie said very wrong : there is nothing we value more." I replied that I would write for a brace for him, and that if there were any other respect in which my government could oblige him, I trusted he would let mf* know. Muhummud Aumeen Beeg is a short, stout, round- faced Oozbeg, of the family of the reigning Khaun Hiizurut. He is said to be a worthy man, and well inclined toward the English. He is very hospitable, but full of peculiarities characteristic of country life, and is in fact an Oozbeg squire. He gave me the option of having my provisions sent me raw, or dressed in his kitchen. To save him trouble, I pre- ferred the former arrangement. I slept comfortably in the Oozbeg tent. In the morning some of the wretched loops and buttons of my Afghaun attire having given way, I sent Nizaum to get them mended, and this being accomplished, desired him to call the tailor to be rewarded. He was horrified at the idea. " It 's a woman," said he. " Well then let her send some one for the present." Off went Nizaum, but soon returned with the lady herself, who came smirking and half covering a face, which, sooth to say, was not worthy of tlie pains. I gave her a ducat, wliich quite reconciled her to having borne the glance of an unlM-lieving eye. She iiad scarcely gone when Birdler 32 TIIK OLD CAUZTE. Beeg came breatliless with liaste to ask what in the world T liad been at witli tlic Zuniuik. Zuimuk is the coiitomptuous epithet lor woman, tlie feminine of mannikin. Ih'eakfast Avas brought, and liaving (hscnssed it, I prepared to depart. 1 repeated my [)roffer of writing to Heraut for any thing that would please the Beeg. lie replied, I require nothing but a brace of flint and steel pistols, rather short in the barrels. This Avas the exact description of my oAvn Aveapons, Avhich he had been owrhauling, and Avliich he still persisted in thinkin": intended for himself. I Avould luiA^e taken leave of him at the door; but he insisted upon escort- ing me a fursuk, and off Ave started. Perceiving that the old Cauzie Avas a man of conse- quence in the household, I had been paying his child great attention; and noAV took the opportunity of slipping live gold pieces into his hand. The old gentleman Avas delighted, and as I have since heard, proclaimed my praises at the top of his gamut. Colonel Stoddart's old servant also accompanied us, folloAvinsr me to some distance after I had taken leave o of the Beeg. T fell into conversation Avith him, and found it to be his firm conviction that the imprison- ment of Colonel Stoddart, was oAving to a letter written by the Vuzeer Yar Muhunnnud, to the Unnneer of Bokhara. This man has since visited Bokhara Avith the vicAv of effecting Colonel Stoddart's release. His opinion jumps Avith a conviction I liaA'e lonj]: felt. It is a\X'11 known that terms of defiance had passed betAveen Colonel Stoddart and the Vuzeer, Avhich the latter was the last man in the Avorld to foriret or for^xive. An outAvard reconciliation liad taken place, but such could but serve to inflame, by su})pressing the resentment of such a fiend as Yar Muhummud. It Avould appear also that the Vuz(.'er, in addition to his letter to the Ummeer, sent a man of his OAvn in company Avith Colonel Stoddart; and to this man's advice is attributed all tlie evil conse- THE ISHAUKZYE. 33 quences that fell upon Colonel Stoddart, whom he had persuaded to believe hhn an attached follower. In pursuing this conversation the man winked at me, and said in a low voice that he could not speak his sentiments before the Birdler Beeg. I made the lUrdler Beeg ride on, and. asked why? He replied, " He is a bad man. I have had much dealing with him." I demanded facts : but he would say no more. There seems to be amongst Asiatics a natural hatred and jealousy of one another, which will not suffer them to rest so long as by any means they can injure one another's reputation or interests. The Birdler Beeg I knew to be a rogue of the first. water in money matters; but although 1 have by cross-examination made him confess that he has a letter from the A^uzeer to the Alehtur, and that the former gave him twenty ducats, which assuredly he would not have bestowed without hope of profit, yet, as the Birdler Beeg has received already six times as much from us, and has hope and promise of more in case of proving useful, the motive to treachery is not easily conceived, except- ing indeed that there is a natural bias that way in all Asiatic minds. I find that my arrival caused many delusive hopes amongst the slaves of my host's household. The notion that 1 was on a mission for the freedom of all the captives at Khiva had got abroad, and fearing that the slaves should seek my protection, their masters had them chained until my departure. Sum- nmd Khaun, amongst others, saw a poor fellow of his own tribe, wliom some time ago I had unwittingly affronted, and wlio now implored me to release him. The case was as follows. We were spending the day at Capt. i'ottinger's tent in the valley of lleraut. A young man of very ridiculous appearance attracted notice l)y some very clum.sy action in removing plates, &<:. I a^ked who he was, and Sunnrmd Khaun im- plied, a S'hugzye, i.e. Isliaiik/ye, or son of Isaac; but the word in his month .sounded so like Sug/ye, or \ol,. I. [) 34 ARRIVAL AT iMKRV. Dog's son, that I repeated it with a shout of laughter. I soon found 1 liad domi wrong. Sunnnud Khaun, who is also an Isliaukzye, was seriously hui-t and of- fended; and 1 determined never again to joke upon patronyniies solong as I should remain in this country. I now assured Snmnuid iviiauii that I would not for- get the poor fellow at a more seasonable moment; hut that at present to release captives would seriously prejudice my mission ; as, should an idea that such was the object of my mission reach Khiva, the whole popu- lation would be in alarm, their w^ealth consisting chiefly of slaves. T desired him and my other ser- vants, therefore, to discountenance this notion to tlie utmost of their power. Continuing to pass over the sandy plain, I arrived shortly after noon, near the castle of Merv, where resides the governor. I had the night before sent to warn him of my approach. I now despatched a man to certify him of my arrival. Yet he suffered me to approach the castle without any symptom of a greet- ing. I therefore determined upon shaming him by pitching outside, and chose a spot for the purpose. In the course of half an hour, a party of horsemen ap- proached, headed by three confidential servants, whom the governor has the impudence to call his Vuzeers. They saluted me, apologised for delay, saying that their master was abroad when my messenger arrived, and begged permission to escort me to a Seraie pre- pared for my reception. I replied that they found me pitching my tent, under the idea that 1 was not welcome to the Bae. That I could still make myself very comfortable here, if the governor were less than friendly in his feeling. That 1 had sent a messenger the night before, and another this morning, so that the Bae could not fail of Ijeing apprized of my arrival, and any tardiness of hospitality must tlierefore be im- puted to his disposition. The messengers in reply, entreated me not to dis- grace their master by pitching outside; assured me no messenwr had arrived the nijrht before; DECEPTION. 35 and that the messenger of this morning had found the governor superintending the work of a canal. It was not my object to drive matters to extremities; I there- fore mounted and accompanied the messengers. A large crowd of people had collected to gaze. The horsemen of the escort, to the number of thirty, gal- loped to and fro, flourishing and firing their arms. A black tent was hastily erected within an enclosure for my accommodation. In the mean while I sate in a routie of canvass. The governor did not make his appearance; otherwise, there was much shew of re- spect and attention. The usual repast was set before me — bread, raisins, melons, and apples. Evening closed, the governor had not appeared, and I felt that I was slighted. lUrdler Beegnow entered, sa3dng that one thing would be expected of me. That as the Bae had lately lost his brother, the late minister of Khiva, it would be proper for me to pay the first visit, and say the fat'h or blessing. I objected that this custom could not apply to guests, far less to strangers, since the one had actually called, and the other could not be sup- posed to know any tiling of tlie family afliictions of his entertainer. That, nevertheless, as I would not on any account seem to fail in any token of attention or good will, I Avould humour the ftmcy of the Bae. 1 had sent for jMoolla Ilaroon, a Jew merchant, wl)0 was to cash my bills on Merv. He now came, and I had some chat with him. He had entertained the Missionary Joseph Wolff, in his passage through Merv, and spoke of the kindness lie had heard de- signed for his nation by British benevolence. '\\\q subject is always a touching one. The condition and history of this people have deep claims upon public sympathy; and just now they have been subjected at Meshed to a fresh and fearful persecution. A rumour during the Mohnrrum w;is spi-ejid, thiit the Jews had killed a dog in ridicule ol" IJussun and Ilosein, nej)hews of the J'ropliet, whose death is at that time celebrated. 1)2 36 INIIOSriTAUTY. The consequence was a massacre, and the complete spoliation of the Jews, their wives and clau<;hters being sold as slaves. It appears that Mulnuinnud Shauh has sent a nobleman to Meshed to order resti- tution of the plunder, Alas! wlio sliall restore tlieir insulted lionour to the wives and dau;;liters of Israel, or their blood, spilt in the streets of fleshed ! Several of the Jews of Meshed liad fled hither and found pro- tection. Haroon described the governor of Mcrv as a just man, but admitted that he was no friend to the Enfjlish. Whilst he was yet ena:aQ:ed in conversation with me, some person came to the door and called him, and almost instantly after, entering, struck him on the head and carried him out. I was extremely angr}'', but had sufficient reflection to refrain from using my sword. I called my people, and ordered them to ascertain from whence this outrage came, that I might quit so inhospitable a roof if necessary. They brought the Jew back, and with him an officer of the governor, who assured me, the offender had acted without orders, and that he, the officer, had in- stantly rebuked him. I was far from satisfied with such an excuse, but, sending for Birdler l>eeg, bade him inform the governor of the outrage committed upon his guest, and insist that the offender should be punished. He replied, that he was ready to obey, but knew that the governor, on getting my message, would decapitate the offender. That he was quite certain the outrage did not proceed from the Bae him- self. This assurance, ill-founded as I liave now cause to believe it, calmed me for the time. I know the horrible barbarity of native punishinent, and could not risk the life of a fellow creature upon such a quarrel; so I consented to drop the matter, until some fresh shew of discourtesy should render it in- cumbent upon me to seek redress. Next morning, after having wound on, svith aid of my ]\Ieerza, my first turban, being about twenty- mortal yards of white muslin, to which I verily thought there was no end, I mounted my horse to call upon VISIT TO THE GOVEUNOK. 37 the Bae.* I entered the mud castle of Merv, and found a black tent pitched with the enclosure. In this were seated three Oozbeg gentlemen ; but, as I had never seen the Governor, I was at first at some loss to distinguish him. He sat lowest. They saluted me by taking my hands between their own, and then mo- tioned me to the highest seat. Bread and a mixture of syrup and ghee were brought, and I ate a few morsels. My next neighbour, a greybeard, acted interpreter, and commenced in a strange way, by asking my age. 1 stared. He repeated the question. Not understandin": enouoh of the manners of this barbarous country to be prepared to take offence slightly, 1 informed him. He next asked my name. I again stared, but answered the question. I did not perceive, until afterwards, that these queries had been put designedly, under the impression that I was hot- headed, like my countrymen, and would commit my- self by some act of resentment, that should place me in the power of my enemies ; — a little piece of service, for which I feel gratefully indebted to Yar Muhum- mud Khaun. It was thus that he contrived Colonel Stoddart's captivity. Tliey then inquired the purport of my mission, which I explained ; and afterwards whether the Eng- lish and Piussians had ever been at war. I replied in tlie negative. Whether we spoke the same language. No! the languages were entirely disshnilar. "Pray," inquired the Bae, "what is the Englisli for Doost?" " Priend." Upon this the liae spoke in Toorkish, and as it seemed to me, was calling in question the accu- racy of my reply. " What," I demanded, " is the Russian for Doost?" lie answered " Ih-aat'h." I therefore easily saw througli the snare laid for me. The governor had expected me to transhite Doost by our word " brotlier." Had 1 done so, I should iiavc been proclaimed a s[>y, for no assurances would after- * IVoiionnced always " Boy." 38 rREPARATIONS. wards have sufficed to persuade my enemies that the hmf:jua":es of EuQ-land and Russia differ. Several in- cidents that had occurred at lleraut previous to my (U'parture, euabk'd me to trace tliis little stratagem to Yar Muhummud Khaun.* 1 did not until evening know, that his despatclies had arrived at Merv before me, carried by a Toorcumuu, who passed me in the night. The party repeated several times the Khoosh Aunmdeed, but accustomed to the long formal visits of the Ilerauties, 1 did not take the hint to move. I observed the governor whisper Birdler l*eeg, who rose and looked at me. 1 looked inquiringly at my next neighbour, wlio had the insolence to say " Rooksut," a form of dismissal applied only to inferiors. I walked out of the tent in no good humour, but knew not how to resent the affront, from ignorance of the habits of the country. I therefore deemed it wiser not to appear sensible of it, than to make myself ridiculous by any impotent ebullition of indignation. I sent my Meerza to the Khaloofauh, a priest of great reputation, with a polite message, saying, that I had brought him, from the British Envoy at lleraut, a beautiful Book of ]-*rayers, in Arabic, which I begged him to send a trustworthy person to receive. He sent accordingly his eldest son, a fine youth of about twenty-two years, to whom I delivered the exquisite little volume. In return he invited me to dine with him the following day. I was now busied with preparations for crossing the desert. As water must be carried sometimes six marches, or even ten, when the wells happen to be dry, camels are requisite for any number of persons exceeding four. 1 hired accordingly six fine camels, at two Tillas (about fourteen shillings) each, pur- * I had heard Major Todd, at Heraiit, mentiou to Yar Muhummud this word Braat'h as one of the few Russian words ha\-iug an almost parallel meaning in England. I cannot answer for the correctness of the assertion. THE OLD JEW. 39 chased ten skins of water, and laid in a store of Jowarr for twelve days, at the rate of 121b. for each horse daily, there being no grass in the desert. 1 took bread ready made, and plenty of tea, sugar, and raisins for my servants. I here exchanged my Jum- sheedee cap for a cylindric hat of black lambskin, such as is worn by the Oozbeg. Determining; that no personal pique should prevent me from conciliating, as far as possible, the governor of j\Ierv, whose good offices it was of importance to secure, I purchased here a handsome Persian sabre and Toorkish firelock, which I sent as presents to him. My Meerza came back most gaudily attired in a robe of honour, formed of sarsnet, covered with broad flowers of gold and silver thread. The m;ite- rial resembles kinkaub, but is said to be made in Rus- sia, and is brought from Bokhara. It is often very handsome. Finding, here, that there is not the slightest pros- pect of negotiating bills at Khiva, I have been endea- vouring to raise a little money here. But the Jew, Moolla Haroon, who was to have assisted me, dares not, without the governor's permission, and the go- vernor will not grant it, upon the plea that Haroon is dishonest and a beggar; 1 am therefore obliged to use the services of an old rogue whom he employs and favours, Ibralieein or Ismaeel by name. He com- menced by making difficulties ; but at length promised me 200 ducats. I conversed with him whilst the money was coming. He said he had lost all his pro- perty in the last massacre at Meshed. He tlien prayed for the success of the British arms. I told him we had no longer any enemies; that all was now as we could desire. He laughed, and immediately added, "May your sabre be prosperous." iuiowing that he would not dare use this language in an open tent, unless assured of the support of the governor, 1 began to feel seriously uneasy. He now comi)laincd of his condition, to wliicii I riplied by the reports 1 had 40 TllK YOUNG JEW. lijid of the justice of tlie governor. " Very true," he said, " but these people account us infidels. They re- gard you in tlie same ligl)!. Don't you Avisli this name were for ever extinct?" "What name?" I inijuired in surprise. " The name of Muhummud," he replied in a low cautious voice, fixing his eyes upon mine. I saw tlic extreme peril of my position, and that this old fellow had been sent to pump some mischief out of me, or to entangle ww in my talk. " That is a bad speecli of yours." I re[)ruHl, and immediately changed the conversation. But I confess 1 have not so easily got rid of my uneasiness, to find myself so surrounded with spies and other miscreants of the governor, A young JewnoAV entered, of the most prepossessing countenance, features beautifully regular, and an eye corresponding in beauty of form and in lustre, the most clear and guileless that could be conceived. I looked upon him with much interest. This was a son of Israel. Plow lovely must not her daugliters be! This was one of that scattered and persecuted race, erst the chosen of Heaven, and now the scorn of the World. The young man, as he seated himself, said, pointing to the old man, "This is my father;" and the old man replied, " This is my son." 1 believed neither; and my suspicions were at once awakened towards the youth, in whom I was disposed to feel so lively an interest, yet it was impossible to meet his eye with distrust. A mystery there was, unexplained; but its nature I could not conjecture. Wlien I asked on Avhat terms I was to have the gold, the young man refused to make any; saying, that it was quite suf- ficient to have done me a service. " But what," I inquired, " do you know of me ?" " We know that the English are everywhere kind to the Jews, and we have heard that your people are striving to collect to- gether our scattered race, to restore them to their kingdom." I have met with deceit in so many forms, that I am not easily (lu{)ed. I was on this occasion particu- JEWS. 4 1 larly jealous of any emotion, because I believed the old Jew to be acting a dishonest, if not a treacherous part towards me ; and the young man had voluntarily identified himself with the senior, by calling him his father, Avhen I felt certain no such relationship sub- sisted. Yet I could not see here the object of deceit, where I was the person to be obliged, and had no prospect of serving either of the Jews. If they hoped to win my confidence to the betrayal of any secret, their labour was lost, as I had no secret to betray. I replied, that the English did indeed feel a strong in- terest in all relating to the Jews. That many of our people devoted their lives to the good of this perse- cuted race. That in England we granted them all the rights of free citizens, including a share in offices of state and legislation.* That there, they form a most respectable and powerful body, and are amongst the richest of mankind. That we believe the Jewish Scriptures, and that Jesus Christ was of the house of David, and of the family of Israel. I assured him, that his brethren should never repent any service ren- dered to the English. That our views in these coun- tries were quite free from guile. That we desired neither territoiy nor to promulgate our opinions by the sword. That we wished to see good faith and justice prevail, and security of life and property, and should use to this end the utmost infiiience of our example ; but that w(i had no views of conquest or self- aggrandisement. That these countries were not worth our acceptance, and that our empire was already too extensive. That our views being such as I declared, it was the interest of every creature, Avhether Jew, Muliummudan, or Hindoo, to aid us and make much of us. * I reprint this, an it appeared in the first edition. The reader will reraeinher that I left England u hoy of bixteen years, and had been living mostly in tho Jungles since. CHAPTER III. Jew MiTcliants — Their estimation at ^lerv — Visit to the Khaloofauh — Atmosphere of Merv — Tlie Son of the Soofie Ool Ishiiim — Dinner — Ignorance of tlie state of Europe — Gifts — The Gift Horse — Visit from the Governor, Nyaz Muhummud Bae — Nature and Pi-operties of a Gift in Eastern Lauds — Salcli i\Iuhuiumud — My Prepossession in his Favour — Persian Ambassador to Khiva — Merv — Departure from its miserable and inhospitable Plain — Aspect of the ancient Site — Slave Caravans — Condition of the Victims — Toorcumun and Oozbeg Women — Economy of a Toorcumun Tent — Oljection to too much Bosom — Preference for broken-in Partners of tlie Yoke — Other Toorcumun Habits — A Day's March in the Wilderness of Kara Koora — Landmarks — Sagacity of Camels — Instance of the Excessive Cold at Cabul — Toorcumun Notions of the Glory of the Heels — Aspect of this Wilderness. NEXT mornino; (for this conversation passed in the evening) the Jews brought nie a shawl and several cloaks, etc. The price demanded was absurdly small, not above a third of that charged at Heraut. I re- marked this to the Jews. The reply was, " We have told you, according to promise, exactly how much these articles cost us, and we never lie." It is indeed a singidar fact, that the Jews in these parts have a character for truth, which gives their word more weiglit than the oath of a ]\loosulmaun. " At Heraut," I said, " this shawl, for which you ask eight Tillas, would cost thirty." "Yes!" replied the old Jew, " and we WTre about to send it to Heraut." " No ! no such thing," interrupted the youth, " the gentle- man has heard the price. He shall have it for that, or if he likes to make us some trifling per centage for profit, well and good." It was a singular and novel KHALOOFAUH. 43 position in which I found myself. The absurdly small price asked was sufficient assurance of the sin- cerity of the Jews. It is true, they had nothing to apprehend in trusting an Englishman's honour; but they might have asked double the sums they placed upon their goods, and still have got the credit of dealing honestly by me. When I had selected such articles as were requisite for the Tosheh Kaneh, I placed a handsome per centage on the amount, that they might not be losers. At noon 1 mounted my horse and rode over to the Khaloofauh's abode, I had a rare specimen of this abominable plain, passing through an atmosphere of dust that almost stifled mo. My road lay through the Bazaar of low huts, Avhich constitutes the present city of Merv. I issued from thence into the plain of deep fine sand, shewing not in the whole of its wide extent of some three thousand square miles a blade of any herb, far less the leaf of any tree, but raked up by the lightest wind, until the sky is blotted out by the dust. I found the Khaloofauh's black tent pitched on the banks of a sluice from the main canal. On entering, the inmates rose to receive me. I was greeted first by the son of the Soofie ool Islaum, and afterwards by the Khaloofauh. The former is a guest of the latter. The Soofie ool Islaum, a man of very extensive power in the spiritual world, had conferred the title of Khaloofauh u])on the father of the present incumbent. The son of the Soofie, persecuted by jNIuliumnuid Zemaun Khaun, and forced to fly from Khooshk, has found refuge here, and is treated with the highest consideration. After some discourse, water and a basin were brought round, and we waslied our liands, drying them, as usual, on our handkerchiefs. Tlicn a filtliy clotli of chintz, greased to the consistence of leather, wa.s spread on the ground before us. It is considered thankless to wash from a talHc cloth the stains ol" fonii'-r baiHpK.'ts, or to suffer a crumb to be lost. 44 FEAST OF THE DERVEISII. Upon the table cloth metallic trays were set, con- taining- pilaus, hot and very fjjreasy. Tucking up my right sleeve, I set to work, spilling half the rice into my lap, and making little way against the practised fists and elbows of the priests. As for the Khaloo- fauh, he shewed himself a man of might in the mys- teries of the table, tearing large handfuls of nmtton from the bone, as a bear might claw the scalp from a human viqtim, and plunging elbow-deep into the hot and greasy rice. Seeing how little progress 1 made, he said, laughing, we have a proverb, " that you should never spare tlie catcs of the Derveish. They come from heaven, you know, and cost nothing " The two sons of the Khaloofauh were the only at- tendants. This, I iind, was ordered as a compliment. It recalled sundry remembrances of the patriarchal histories. At length even the Khaloofauh's arm waxed faint, and his jaw wagged more slowly; and then, with fists greased above the wrists, we sat waiting for the water which was to laugh at the slush upon our fingers, and eventually be absorbed, with a large mass of highly-scented mutton fat and gravy, by our handkerchiefs, haunting us for the rest of the day, with the stale smell of pilaus. And then we all joined in the fat'h, or grace, and swept the descending benediction off our beards. Conversation ensued; questions regarding Europe were asked and answered. The existence of more than one I'Airopean nation was a novel idea. AVhen I assured the company that there were some thirteen, the least far more powerful than the king of Persia, I was heard with civility, but probably with very little credence. As the British had entered Candahar from the South, it was scarcely possible to persuade them that London, as they term England, lies not in that direction, but North North West. The son of the Soofie is a handsome and gentle- manly man, and far better informed than the gene- rality of his counti'yiiien. I explained to him the NYAZ MUHUMMUD BAE. 45 system of British policy in Asia, and tlie objects of my present mission. These are quite incomprehen- sible to most of those in whose society I am thrown. They cannot understand two nations, both called Christian, both Feringees, wdio have never been at war, becoming in Asia, the one invader, the other benefactor of a Mahomedan power. In this country of Tartar caps, the turban is con- fined to the priests, and is small and ungraceful, being a tight thong of muslin, wound upon a cap fringed with black lambskin, which o-ives it a sinae,had expressed his intention to return my call, and was now an- nounced. Impoliteness is diflicult to an l^nglishnian ; and I several times detected myself offering the surly old bear more attention tlian lie deserved. We sat together at the upper end of the tent in profound 4(> SALEH MUnUMMUD. silence, which I broke by some indirect remarks and questions. The l>ae did not, I think, utter above two words during the interview. I had called for tea, and there being some delay in serving it, and the fellow becoming fidgetty, he was so impolite as to issue orders himself for it. lie then rose without any salutation, and marched to the door. J, of course, condescended him none. ^ly ]\Ieerza now received a message from the Kha- loofauh requesting his attendance, and on his return asked mysteriously whether I had written to the British Envoy to inform him of the Sootie's gift. Finding that I had done so, he begged, in the name of the Khaloofauh, that I would not entrust the note to his particular friend and guest, Saleh Muhummud, but send it to him. T gave the note accordingly. Then the Meerza whispered, " What have you valued the horse at?" "Why do you askV" "The Kha- loofauh is anxious to know." " What do you think it worth?" I said. "Forty ducats." "Very well, I have said forty ducats." Off the old Meerza trudged to deliver the note and the information. Such is the nature of a gift amongst this people. It is as the meat we generously fling to the ocean with a large barbed hook in the centre. Such, too, is the friendship and good faith between them. Saleh Muhunnnud, son of the principal Cauzie at Heraut, a particular gentlemanly young man, had extolled to the skies the Khaloofauh and Soofie's son. But they could not trust him to deliver a note, from which they expected profit. They were right, too; for his father, the old Cauzie, would certainly have taken his per-centage. Tliis youth, Saleh Mulunnmud, so pleased me by his intelligence and alacrity, that I have begged Major Todd to send him to me at Khiva, if he thinks Go- vernment will sanction to him a suitable salary. It seems to me that 1 could make important use of him in sounding others, and gathering the information requisite to enable me to steer with security. PERSIAN A.MBASSADOR TO KHIVA. 47 I learned at Merv two facts of importance. First, that the Persian ambassador has just passed through I\lerv in great state, charged with costly presents for the Khaun Huzurut. Secondly, that Peer Muhum- mud Khaun, whom I dismissed at Punj Deeh, has actually sent on to the governor of Merv, by the hand of a Toorcumun, the despatches he received from Yar Muhummud Kliaun. All this bodes me no good. Merv was one of the most ancient cities of Asia. It was situated in the plain, about twelve miles east of the little Bazaar which at present bears its name, and was watered by a canal from the Moorghaub, or Awb-i-Mo\vi\ It was founded by fire-worslii})pers, of whose fort, called Kullah Ghubbah, there are yet remains. And it long formed a portion of the Per- sian empire, whose l)oundary on the east was the river Oxus. Its vicinity to this boundary, and its disjunction from the inhabited parts of Persia by wide deserts, must have early rendered it obnoxious to molestation from the Toorkish and other tribes, and Merv has probably changed masters as often as any city in the world. Latterly, as the Persian dominions have shrunk upon their heart, Merv has always be- longed either to the Toorks or to some of the petty principalities of the neighbouring mountains. It has witliin a few years been wrested from Bokhara by the Khaun of Khiva, and forms one of the most im- portant districts of Khaurism. During the misrule and anarchy of the last sixty years, the ancient dam of the Moorghaub was neglected and carried away. The city, in consequence, became uninhabitable, and was utterly abandoned. The dam is again set up, and the lands are brought under culture, but the ancient site continues a deserted ruin. The jjrcscnt Merv is an a.s.semJjhjge, upon the Moorghaub, of about one hundred mud huts, where a considerable l)azaar is held. 'J'he entire waters of the ^loorghaui) are dis- j)er.sed over the sand}' jdain for the purposes of irri- gation. Tiiis profusion of water renders the soil 48 MERV. productive ; but it has not strength to })ear any but the poorer kinds of grain. The phiin is perluips an area of sixty miles l)y forty, or 2-400 S({iuire miles, running on every side into the desert. About 60,000 Tooreumuiis are said to live upon this plain, chiefly as cultivators. And the revenue in land and other taxes amounts to about 300,000 Tillas, or 210,000 Co.'s Rupees, or about 21,000/. The trade passing through Merv is very considera- ble; Merv connecting Bokhara and Persia, Khiva luid AfL^'haunistaun. Indeed the position of Merv is so important, that it never will lie long abandoned, :ind might, with judicious care, ra[)idly rise from its dust into wealth and consequence. My arrangements completed, 1 bade farewell to Merv with no wish ever again to behold it. I had not proceeded a mile, ere I discovered that the gift- horse of the holy man was dead lame, of an old and incurable strain. We crossed the dry channel of the ]\Ioorghaub, and proceeded by a well-beaten road in direction East North East. I soon perceived, upon the Eastern horizon, the ruins of the ancient Merv, of which a mosque and several forts form the principal features. The city is said to have boen smaller than Heraut, i. e. less than four miles in circuit. From this distance I might have estimated it at eight times the .dimensions. The fact seems to be, that several sites have in turn been occupied and abandoned, re- taining each some vestige of its former fortifications; and these lying, in a continuous line, give an im- pression of vastness to the deserted site. I regarded it with much interest, and reirretted the haste which prevented me from visiting it. On the horizon around us were many tuj^pahs, or artificial mounds, of con- siderable elevation. These are supposed to have been forts. I was glad to quit this Avretched, though much vaunted plain, and enter the desert, which is a pa- I'adise in comparison. To the north of the ancient SLAVE CAHAYANS. 49 city is saitl to exist the tomb of the liero Ulp Urshiun,* one of the most remarkable eharacters in Asiatic history. I could, however, learn no particulars relative to it. At our halting ground, I discovered that we have two caravans in company. They had broun^ht irdler Beeg entered one of the tents and brought out from it a man, who came and saluted me with nnicli shew of cordiality, although he had been deaf enough, so long as there was any hope of escaping the hospi- table claims of strangers. From him we inquired the road, and procured a draught of water. The women, so curious in cities, did not even peep. Birdler Beeg boasts the beauty of the Toorcumun women, but it probably consists of small, sparkling eyes and a rosy complexion. Their features can seldom be regu- lar or very delicate. The women of the Oozl^egs are said to be lovely, but neglected by their brutal lords. Peer Muhummud Khaun declares that they are not without their revenge, being allowed to drive where they like, in covered carts, with the male slaves of the family, and having entire charge of the purse. That a handsome male slave will,in consequence, often refuse his freedom when it is offered him. All this, how- ever, Birdler Beeg, as in duty bound, strenuously denies. The Toorcumun women arc by all accounts modest, and not concealed. When a traveller enters a Yah- moot Khail, he is accommodated in the public guest tent, if there be one. If the camp is small, there is probably no guest tent, in which case he is admitted into the family tent of his host, where he finds the ■ wife and children. At night, under veil of darkness, the several parties undress. The children are early married, the boys at the age of fourteen years, the girls at that of eleven or twelve years, and before the age of puberty. The marriage is immediately con- summated, and a tent is provided for the young pair, which is pitched near that of the boy's parents. It is considered a reproach to have an unmarried daughter to the age of twenty years, and such ladies are little in request as wives ; for, said Birdler Beeg, their bosoms TOORCUMUN ITABITS. 51 become so large. I have in Hindoostan seen a giil of nine years, living as wife with a man of thirty ; but the practice is unconnnon in that country, where mar- riages are seldom consummated until both parties have attained puberty. The daughters of Toorcumuns are always pur- chased. If respectable, at not less than 100 Tillas, about 700 Go's Rupees, or 70/. If the first wife die, the widower must pay double for a second, although the husband should be still a child. In return for the price bestowed, the bride is generally provided by her parents witli furniture of proportionate value. A widow, if young, fetches a higher price, as being broken into the manege. Strange as it may appear, men and women never eat together. I asked liirdler IJeeg the reason. " Is woman an unclean animal ?" "No!" he said, "but a man would be laughed at who should eat with a woman, he would be called ' a pretty Miss.' " He Avas nmch astonished at learning that we suffer our women to eat from the same dish with ourselves. He asserted that some liberty of choice is allowed the young people ; but I have heard this denied, and believe, that as a general rule, it may be said to be quite unknown. I was describing England one day to Birdler Beeg, if indeed a process, in wliich every idea is to l)e created ere it can be applied, can l)e termed description. He asked, "And what couhl induce you to quit such a paradise ?" " The hope of making myself a name." "What! your King I suppose will make much of you ?" "No! without being kiunvn to my King, I may win myself a name !" "Oh! yes! yes! your King being a woman, cannot of course confer honour, ]>ut her Vuzeer will," When I infoniud him, that b(.'side the honour which the Queen and her Ministers confer, there was a society, a pul)lic, whose opinion was of tlic utmost !•; 2 52 day's makch in ihk wilderness. consequence to :iii l^ii^lislimaii, tlie idea was incom- prehensible. There bein<^ in Toorkestiiun neither aristocracy nor people, nor any right nor honour but the Kiug s pleasure. Our camp was at Kara Tuppah, where was a small Kliail (or camp) and a sluice o!' pure water from one of the canals. Early next morning I resumed my march over a plain, encumbered by sand-hills, and sprinkled with low jungle. The lower lands arc oc- casionally cultivated, and have old water-courses and remains of habitations, speaking of a more prosperous period. The country is rather a wilderness than a desert, produces an abundance of dry fire-wood, and plenty oi' camel thorn, but no grass whatever. I met an old Toorcunmn gentleman riding a fine horse, and followed by a young girl of about sixteen years, riding astraddle, fair, with feminine features, but insipid. Her head-dress was remarkable, being adorned with silver ornaments, fantastic and pretty ; but I was too much occupied with the face, to retain any distinct impression of the shape. The sight of the most ordi- nary female countenance is a rarity not to be neglected. We had filled the water-bags at Kara Tuppah, so were indej^endent, when at noon we sat down in the wilderness and awaited the arrival of the camels. It is needless to detail each several stage, where all were precisely alike; but it may be interesting to sketch a single day's trip, with all its pleasures and inconveniences. I rise then at midnight, and sit at a blazing fire, sipping tea without milk, until the camels are laden and have started. I then mount and follow them, and as camels walk something less than three miles an hour, soon overtake them. As the cold is intense, and our feet are by this time fully numbed, I alight and spread my carpet, and a large fire is soon made, around which we all sit half an hour. Wood is very abundant, and so dry that when the hoar frost or snow is sliakeii from it, it kindles instantly. It is likewise so deficient in solidity, that a stem, the thick- CHARITY. 53 ness of a man's body, is torn up by the roots without difficulty. We now mount again, and proceed in silence, for the path admits not of two abreast ; and the freezing of the vapour of the breath, upon one's beard and mustachios, renders the motion of the jaw singularly unpleasant. Indeed, in raising the handkerchief to one's face, it is tans-led in a disa2:reeable manner with the crystals, and the chin has become so brittle, that a very slight tittilation is painful. Jupiter is now far above the horizon, and Venus is shining gloriously upon the desolate wild. And by degrees, we perceive the day itself slightly winking in the east, and again we pull up, to light a fire^ and to thaw our frozen extremities. We sit until day is fully confirmed, when the Birdler Beeg and my Meerza, and some- times Summud Khaun spread their cloaks, ascertain the true position of Mecca, and duly say their prayers. The other servants do not seem to think the ceremony expected from them, as they have less title to conse- quence. One day, when Birdler Beeg and the Meerza had both risen from their knees and were approaching the fire, the Meerza said to the Toorcumun, " Salaam alikoom," which was as much as to say, I hail you a brother. The other, however, did not condescend to answer the salutation, thinking himself far too ortho- dox to own such fraternity. I have witnessed the same scene acted over a purer faith, and in a better land. The High Churchman speaks with infinite scorn of the liumble Methodist, the zealous puritan. The very enthusiast, upright of heart and gentle of spirit, whose words are sincerity, whose soul glows with the least earthly love; yet deems himself entitled to speak of " poor dear such an one," and to mourn the condition of many a perverse brotlier and sister, over wh(jm, perchance, tlie angels are rejoicing. When shall we bcliold the bequest of Jesus j)er- vading the hearts, and directing the eonduc^t of all !* ^\'h(•n shall we sec thf will to do good, divcstt'd ol" tin; 54 A MARCH 1\ THE WILDERNESS. proneness to think evil of our neighbours? If, indeed, so great a blessing is yet in reserve for man's perverted race, the })r:iyer which tliose pure lips have taught us, will be robbt'd of its foremost petition. The kingdom of Heavm will be amongst us, and the hope of it shall be swallowed up in sight. Kvv the sun breaks from the horizon, we are once more mounted and away. The profusion of hoar frost upon the leafless jungle sheds a glory over the desolate scene. It is a sight unwitnessed by me for seventeen years, and brings back many pleasant rememl)rances tinged with sadness. Now we are close upon tlie traces of the camels. The slave caravans keep them company. The hardy Toorcumuns, as they trudge along in their clouted, laced boots, and legs wound around with woollen cloths, and their white sheepskin caps, heavy with hoar frost, have no cause to envy us, whose knees are cramped with the saddle, and whose feet are again freezing in the morning air. How frosty their cheeks and sharp noses ai)pear, peeping above the cataract of ice which clings to their scanty beards, and below the snow)- mass which over- hangs their brows. The captive ladies are wisely invisible. They have tucked themselves below the felts of their Kujawurs, and yet I fear, in spite of all their management, have but a chilly berth. But there is one poor wretch, who has no such defence against the weather. Whose knees, like ours, are cramped with the saddle of her camel; but who has not, like us, a sufficiency of clothing, nor the option of alight- ing to renew life at the fire. What is her condition, and what the hope which supports her under her miser)- ? Is it hope of escape ! Alas ! he who once enters Khiva abandons all such hope, as surely as he who enters hell. His prison-house is girdled with trackless deserts, whose sole inhabitants are the sellers of human flesh ; escape is as impossible from Khiva, as to the wretch thrice-girdled in the black folds of Styx. If she has still a hope left to su))port A MARCH IN THE WILDERNESS. 55 her spirit, it is the chance, faint and dim, of falhng into hands less cruel, than those which now opi)ress her. Her home, her country, her husband, her friends, are lost, and for ever; and the child which hangs like some worthless article of merchandise from the camel's side, shall, if it continue to live, know neither home, nor country, nor one right that should be com- mon to the human race. The magnificent camels, in their long shaggy fur, little heed the weather. The icicles hang from their beards, and hoar frost garnishes their heads. Their large, full, lustrous eyes, seem acquainted with hard- ship, but not with trouble. They are the very philo- sophers of patience, who conquer all things by tranquilUty of spirit. Many a " Salaam alikoom" is wished me as I pass, and Birdler Beeg has just stop- ped to take a puff of the kullyaun, and exchange a light-hearted laugh with his countrymen. On we march with lengthened pace, and at ten o'clock strike off the road to seek a hollow, convenient for a halt. AVe choose that which is sheltered from the wind and exposed to the sun, and has, besides, an abundance of firewood ; as for camel-thorn, there is never lack of that. My carpet is spread, and Shakespeare is open, and this is real enjoyment; for the cramped limbs may now extend themselves, and the warmth of the sun and of the fire are equally agreeable. But this is not all, for the camels have now arrived, and I see Nizaum, my Nazir, under way to my carpet, bearing hot bread and the concreted juice of grapes; and having been nine hours in the frosty air, tlie appetite is som(;t]iing whetted. My people also have made themselves tea, and a stew swimming in tlie fat of ram's tails; and leaving Byron to sing, " The Av/^6' of grease, tlie Isles (jf gnase," they swallow whole contineyits at a gulp. \jy degrees the wanntli and ease of my position " steal my senses, shut my sight," and I ain not sensible of external oljjects, until the loud '* Bismillah" awakens me to see tlie eaurila depart. 56 A MAECII IN THK WILDERNESS. Then it is once nioiv " Monnt and «to," nor do we dniw rein until four o'clock, when avc again choose a ])osition o( bivouac and collect iire-wood lor the niiilit. A<::ain come the camels, and now my funny little tent is [)itched, and 1 instal myself within it; in due time devour the fat stew they have made me, and slee{) until midnight; when J rise, and call the people who have crei)t under their thick felt coverings, and are well wraj)ped in furs. Such is a life in the Avilderness, sufficiently tedious and irksome at first, and painful until habit has ac- custoned the limbs to the constraint of the saddle, for so many hours daily. This constrained posture, aided by the excessive cold, so paralysed the nerves of the legs, that for twenty days after my arrival at Khiva 1 had scarcely the use of my right foot, and all my servants complained of constant pain in the ex- tremities. Unfortunatt-ly my old Meerza having lost just forty of the two-and-thirty teeth he once Iwasted, and having moreover an all-of-a-heap manner of speaking, so that the first word of his sentence runs down the heels of the last, all conversation with him is out of the question ; and Birdler Beeg understands just enough of Persian to misinterpret mine. 1 there- fore feel doubly the loss of Peer Muhummud Khaun, who spoke the language well, and caught my mean- ing readily. After the second march, the path became both vaii^ue and difficult as the sand hills increased, and the track was often quite effiiced by the mnd. In this difficulty we looked for oeks, or landmarks, gene- rally the skeleton of a camel hung upon a bush, but often, masses of dark wood, piled upon some conspi- cuous point. At night, it need scarcely be observed, these are utterly invisible. They are also few and far between, but whenever a camel's bone is to be found in the sand, you may be sure you are not far from the true route. One niglit, when I rose as usual for the march, I SAGACITY OF ANIMALS. 57 found the earth a foot deep in new-fallen snow. I confess I thought it madness to proceed until da}- light ; but Birdler Beeg assured me there was nothing to apprehend. " But," I said, " you lost your way, just now, in broad da}" -light, and but for my compass, would never have recovered it." This was fact. The air was foggy ; we wandered off the road, made a fire, sat down, forgot our bearings, and sent men due North, instead of South, to look for the camels. Their errand failing, I had recourse to my compass, and re- covered the path by it. The features of this irregular plain are everywhere precisely similar, and nothing is easier than to go astray. "AVhat are we to do?" I inquired of Birdler Beeg. " We must follow the camels !" "The camels! and who are they to follow?" there is not a star visible, and the night is pitchy dark." "Oh!" said Birdler Beeg, "the camels never go astray." I was far from satisfied, but had no alternative, so followed the track of the camels, Avhich, without turn- ing head to the right hand or left, followed all the windings of the invisible path through the deep snow, as confidentl}' as in day-light. This faculty is very wonderful, and utterly unaccountable by any know- ledge we j)0ssess, of animal sensation. One night, when 1 had dismounted to thaw my feet, my Meerza asked me how I found them. I re- plied, tliat if he asked after my knees or my calves, 1 could give him ^sonie inlormation, but that beyond them I could not speak, not being very certain tliat I possessed feet. " That," said the Meerza, " reminds me of a tale relating to Cabul, which, as every one knows, is ex- (X'ssively cold in winter. Two inen were sleeping there, wrapp(;d in tlie same cloak. In the moi'iiing, one of them awaking, commenced as usual to scratch his head. Finding very little Ijcnefit from the ope- ration, 1m' dug liis nails in pretty deep, and was 58 RIVAL CLAIMS. ploughing away in great contentment, when his friend, starting, asked him, wliat tlie deuce he was at? " Scrateliing my head to be sure." *' Your head. What, do you mean to say this is your head tiiat you are tearing to ])ieces, like a great tom cat, with your infernal claws?" " Of course 1 do," replied his friend, continuing the operation w^ith a yawn. '' The devil it is!" replied the other, seizing the scratching lingers between his teeth, and speaking through his nose. " If this is your head, these are your teeth." And he bit him until he roared a confession of his error. The hoar frost upon the bushes greatly delighted me. I had not seen it since leaving England. I robbed the bushes of their crystals as I passed them, to quench my thirst. When the wind, which is gene- rally N.N. East, changed to West, it brought clouds from the Caspian, which always fell in snow. The air at other times was excessively cold ; we preserved our noses, only by constant manipulation. A case of felt on the outside of the boot is the only thing that will effectually protect the feet. No provision, inside the boot, will avail, if the leather be exposed to the air; for its pores become saturated with vapour, and in this state it is instantly converted into a mass of ice. The greater part of this tract is safe to travellers, provided with passes ; but, at about the fourth march, we approached a well, where, Birdler Beeg informed me, caution was requisite, as the Persian, or rather Tartar horsemen, subjects of Persia, make occasional forays hither from Dereguz. We therefore remained at this well only long enough to procure a supply of water. Several marches here are considered perilous from the above cause. The next morning, taking precedence of the camels, we pushed on for a coU}>le of hours in silence, when GLORY OF THE HEELS. 59 it appeared that Birdler Beeg had lost his road. This ■svas awkward, and every attempt to recover the track involved us in hollows, which were as lakes of dense camel-thorn, extremely annoying to the horses, whose legs they lacerated. Moreover, every now and then, I found myself on the brink of a deserted well, so walled in with thorns, that I was saved only by the sagacity of my horse, from falling into it. It was very dark, and 1 knew not what means Birdler Beeg might have of finding the path, in a country so destitute of fea- tures. He went on, however, confidently, through jungles of camel-thorn and thickets of tamarisk. At length we heard voices a-head ; and loosened our sabres. Birdler Beeg coming up, asked in a whisper what I should do, if they should prove to be Koozulbaush. I replied, that an Englishman had but one way of proceeding in all cases, — and that was to advance. But he replied "they may be ten to one. In such cases it is the Toorcumun fashion to run ; no shame attaches to it; I m3'self have often run."- I perceived that he was not to be depended upon at a pinch. We, however, approached the voices with some caution, but soon recognised our own people, whom we were right glad to find. Another night when we had as usual dismounted, and Ali Muliumniud, my interpreter, had made a fire of brushwood, three horsemen, whose hoof-sounds had been lost in the deep sand, suddenly stood at my elbow. 1 seized my weapons, but lUrdler Beeg found that they were friends; Toorcunmns travelling from Kliiva, with despatches for the governor of Merv. This was a warning of the ease, with Avliicli even horsemen may at night, in this desert, sur[)rize an unwary foe. These men had no camels, Imt carried water for tliemselves and cattl(.', their own and their horses' food and clotliing on the cru[)per of their saddles, making the ■\vh(jle distance of about 3G0 miles in six days. II' it is considered tliat the liorses' bai-ley alone fijr this journey, weighs (JOllt. and tlie 60 KARAKOOM. horse clothing at least 201b. more, this will not appear a very li<;ht leat. It is constantly performed, how- ever, by the Toorcumuns. The aspect of the desert, or rather wilderness from ^lerv to Khiva, is that of a sandy plain, broken into the most irregular, surface by deep pits and high mounds, the whole thinly sprinkled with bushes of three several kinds, between whieh grow wormwood and the camel-thorn. Onapproaching Khiva, thesurface is often ploughed into ravines and ridges, whose course is north and south, giving some idea of abandoned water courses, and traditionally reported to be old channels of the Oxus. It is more possible, that they may have served such purpose to the Moorghaub, when, previous to the monopoly of its waters 'at Merv, it flowed into the Oxus : but my observation was too limited to enable me to decide the question. The ridges are gravelly, but there is no want of sand. Wells on this route are found at long intervals, in one case of 160 miles. The water is generally brackish, but there are exceptions; on approaching Khiva, there appeared a very thin sprinkling of grass, which our horses eagerly devoured. But no dependence is to be placed upon the pasture of this wilderness, and the traveller must provide barley or jowarree, sufficient to supply the place of fodder. The latter is preferable when the horses have been trained to eat it, 1011)s. of jowarree being, in respect of nourishment, equal to 121bs. of barley. CHAPTER IV. Reception at the House of an Oozbeg Gentleman — Message to the Khaun Huzurut — Ram Fight — The Light of Mutton Tails — Birdler Beeg's Return — Reception of my Message by the Khaun Hvizurut — Escort sent to conduct me to my Lodging — Aspect of Khiva and its Surburbs — Dress of Oozbeg Woman — M}' Quarters — Extreme Jealousy of this Government — Arrangements for my Accommodation — Indelicacy of the Mehtur or Minister — Ruminations — Anecdote of Hajji Feroo- zooddeen — Summary of Difficulties — Difference between Fate and a Razor. THE plain of Khiva is visible from some distance, lying much lower than the surface of the wilderness. It has no beauty, and yet the sight of trees, in which it is wealthy, is ever pleasing to the wanderer of the desert. At about 2 o'clock p. m. we had reached a large pool in the cultivated plain. It was so hard frozen, that attempts to get at the water failed, al- though we assailed it with our battle-axes. Birdler Beeg recommended me to halt here whilst he rode on to announce my arrival at Khiva. He accordingly solicited a night's lodging at a respectable dwelling in tlie neighbourhood. The reply was as kind as could be desired. The father and five or six grown up sons came forth, saluted, and conducted me to the guest chamber, receiving and disposing of my servants and cattle with much attention. The guest chamber was the first apartment, on the riglit hand side as I entered the rude portico. It had neither window nor chimney, things unknown in Khaui'ism. Thu place of l)oth was supplied, by tearing a small hcjle in one corner of the roof; a hearth near tlie centre of the room was spee- dily supplied witli a Large lieap of live cliarcoal. A 62 NOTICE OF ARRIVAL. heavy door of coarse wood, turned upon wooder, pivots, let into the masonry al)()ve and below. It was such a phice as an l'Ji<^lish farmer would use as a wood or coal liouse. But it sheltered me from the wind, and was not unwelcome. Bread, raisins, melons, and grapes were instantly set before me, after an invariable custom of the Ooz- bep^s. I found the melons delicious. My people were cheered at the sight of these dainties, of the value of which, oidy the traveller of the desert can form a proper notion. I now sent on liirdh^r ]*>eeg, desiring liim to see the Kliaun lluzurut himself, if possible, and as it was important at the outset to secure for the mission a footing suitable to the power and cha- racter of the British Indian Government; I desired him to dwell upon the vast superiority of Great Bri- tain over Persia (the ambassador of the latter having been received with distinction) and to j^rocure forme as handsome a reception as possible. It may appear strange that such a suit was to be made to the throne direct, but at this primitive court the king is the only real man of business, settling with his o^vn fiat tlie ceremonies that at other courts devolve upon minis- ters or officers of state. Toward evening, my host came to beg me to come outside, to witness the combat of rams trained for the purpose. This is a common pastime in some parts of India, but I had never witnessed it. I was rather disappointed in the force put forth by the animals, and in their power to resist the concussion of meeting heads. After several severe shocks, one of them was evidently the worse for it. He appeared stupified, sneezed very often, and shewed no desire to renew the fight, which the other pressed upon him. It is a spectacle not worth seeing, but it is always something, to have proved Ijy personal experience so much, of any exhibition. As the evening closed, large lumps of fat from the tail of the shee[) were brouglit by my host to supply LIGHT OF ^fUTTON TAILS. G3 the iron pan, which propped upon a greasy and very filthy pedestal of wood, served as a lamp to the apartment ; and soon afterwards a pilau of mutton was served up. In the morning-, Birdler Beeg returned, saying that he had seen the Khaun Iluzurut himself the evening before. Being anxious to gain as much knowledge as possible of the forms of this Court, I desired him to relate exactly what had happened. The Khaun Huzurut, he said, was seated in his black tent, trans- acting business. Birdler Beeg informed the Mehtur of his arrival as my guide, and found that intelli- gence of my approach had already reached Khiva. The Mehtur waited upon the Khaun Huzurut with the information, and Birdler Beeg was almost imme- diately summoned to attend the Khaun. " When I approached the tent," he said, "I trembled." ''Why? have you not often appeared before the Khaun Huzurut?" "Yes; but a king's a king. He is not like other mortals. He has the power of life and death, and a single word or nod of his su^ces for either. 1 left my shoes at the door, lifted the curtain, entered, and joining my hands in front bowed my body, and said, ' Salaam alikoom ;' but my agitation was so great, that I could scarcely muster breath for the words. Tlie Khaun Huzurut received me very graciously, and \ delivered your message. He smiled, questioned me about the journey, but more particularly of the doings of the EngHsh at Heraut. I said that tlie English had done every thing for the Herauties. That an alliance had taken place between them and Shauh Kaumraun, but that tlie Vuzeer still sells the people into slavery. After mnny inquiries I was dismissed, and learned from the Alchtur, that orders had been issued to receive you with distinctioji. Accordingly, a guard of horsemen has been sent in front, and the master of ceremonies follows with about n hundred 04 ISTl'KnAUL. more;* quarters are assigned you in one of the Vuzeer's palaees Ix-yoiid tlie town." T dressed aeeordiii_L;ly, and was scarcely ready wlicii tlie master of ceremonies arrived, witli liis Oozbeg and 'roorcunnin liorse. He was a fine man, tall and stout, with s(|Uarish face, a ruddy complexion, long half-closed eyes, good features, and, merit of merits, a decent beard, lie is an Oozbeg, and a good speci- men of his race. Mter an interchange of civilities, we mounted and proceeded toward the city. I had exchanged my Afghaun dress for my only full dress suit, — an embroidered surtout with golden epaulettes. Tlie master of ceremonies rode beside me, and the liorsemen followed in close column, some of them from time to time dashing from the ranks, discharging their fire-arms, and wheeling their horses at speed ; my impression of their horsemanship was not favour- able. Many of the bridles were richly decorated with gold, silver, and precious stones, which gave them a splendid effect ; there were, also, some very handsome matchlock and firelock rifles, the fabric of Heraut and Persia. The horses greatly exceed in size those of Hindoostaun. But some were disproportion- ately small, and 1 observed none that 1 should have valued very highly. The Oozbegs and a few of the Toorcumuns wore the high cylindric Oozbeg cap of black lambskin. 1 call it cylindric, but it is generally rather larger above than below, so as to be the frus- trum of a cone inverted. The larger the cap, the more dignified is it considered. The Toorcumuns, however, generally wear their own black, lambskin cap, which is smaller, sits close to the head, and ends above, not like the Persian in a point, but slightly rounded. It is a far more convenient head-dress than the Oozbeg, but is not so graceful as the Persian cap. The horsemen rode in a dense mass, which would * At my Audience, the Khaiin assured me that he had sent 100 more horsemen to meet and join me on tlic way, hut that taking tlic wrong road, they had missed me. ESCOKT. 65 have had a more military effect, had there been any uniformity in their arms. But some bore spears, others sabres alone, and a few carried rifles. After riding a couple of miles, the town of Khiva appeared on our right, and we entered a countiy, laid out in gardens and dwellings of the gentry. The houses have all one character, being an enclosure of very lofty clay walls, flanked by ornamental towers at the angles, which give them the appearance of castles. Tliis name (Gullah) they bear at Khiva. The ex- terior has but one visible opening, which is the entrance, lying generally between two towers, and being a spacious gateway, flat above, and roofed throughout, to its termination in the court behind the house, or rather within the enclosure. On one side of this, a door admits to the men's apartments, and on the other side, the women's quarters are constructed. The walls, built with great regularity of rammed clay, are generally fluted, an effect given them perhaps by the hurdles of straight branches, between which the clay is supported whilst soft, and during the process of ramming. The gardens are surrounded by very low walls of similar construction, allowing the eye to conunand many estates from a single point of view. The trees* are apparently a species of elm, wide, and very shadowy; the poplar, and the plane tree. The appearance of the country is pleasing, but it is too flat for beauty, and I observed that neither grass, weed, nor wild flower will grow upon the banks, although canals from the river plentilully irrigate the whole valley. The population of the neighbourhood turned out to stare at the Feringee Kelchie. The men wore the Oozbeg attire. The women's dress differed from that of the mt-n, in the substitution of a species of cylin- dric turban lor tlie caj); and a cloth, which after passing over this turban, was gathered under the chin. • Tho treoH Ijcin;^ out of li-af, I could only guess of their imtiur, from the figure of their sterriH aiul branches. VOL. I. F G6 KIIIVIANS. In other respects, tliere seemed a stranfT;e confusion of attiiv, the women wcarin*]^ a chopili, or cloak, of^ (|uiltecl chintz, precisely simibir to that of the men, with Wellinn;ton boots and very loose drawers. The complexion of the women was very ruddy, shewin*:^ more red than white. Tiieir countenance too round or square for beauty, and their shapes (unless indeed they owe the effect to their ai)parel) clumsy in the extreme. Tiieir eyes are dark, hjng, and ill opened. The brow delicately pencilled. They are accounted beauties, in a region where fair complexions are at a preniium ; many of them showed their faces boldly, others mufiled the lower part of the visage, in the white cloth which passes under the chin. I was not long in reaching the house, or as they were pleased to term it — palace, prepared for my re- ception. It was a large building, having several miserable rooms, ill-shaped, ill-proportioned, unfloored, unplastered. and having neither window nor chimney. The smallest of these had been spread with felt. It was about twelve feet square ; had a heavy rough- hewn door turning on pivots ; and a hearth in the centre for charcoal: a small hole had been broken in the roof to let in light and let out smoke. I received here the master of ceremonies, made him partake with me of the refreshments provided, and then ex- plored the premises. I explained to Birdler Beeg, that I must have one of the largest apartments for the reception of the nobles and chiefs, when they visited or dined with me. He opened wide his eyes. " Therefore," I continued, ''pray look out for carpets and felts, and other suitable furniture without delay, for I sup])Ose the Mehtur (Premier) will call immedi- ately." Me answered me wdth another broad stare, and when the master of ceremonies had left me, explained that it was quite unusual for Eelchies to hold intercourse with the inhabitants of Khiva. Whether or not the Mehtur would call, he could not say; but had never heard of such a ceremony, and RESTRICTIONS. 67 was sure that the Mehtur would not dare to do so, without orders from the sovereign. I asked, whether the nobles and gentry held no social intercourse, en- tertaininor one another at their several abodes. He said, " No;" that Government, i. e. the Khaun, was jealous of any such meetings. I soon found that I was not alone in the house, but that the distant apartments were occupied by an officer of the Mehtur's household, placed there, avow- edly, to attend upon me and supply my wants, but really, as a spy upon my actions. He came to ask me, on the part of the Mehtur, how I would like to arrange my table. Whether he should send me the money allowed by the Khaun Huzurut for my ex- penses, about 2 Tillas, or 28 shillings daily; or whether he should send me the provisions undressed, or whether they should be sent ready cooked. I re- plied, that being the Khaun Huzurut's guest, I could not refuse any food His Majesty mio;ht be pleased to send me. At the same time I could not presume to arrange the mode of furnishing it. Only I begged to be excused from receiving gold for the purpose, the very spirit of the relation between host and guest seeming to be violated by such an arrangement. That if the provisions were to be purchased by me, I had brought with me the requisite funds. If the Khaun Huzurut should be pleased to send me provisions, I should receive them as a compliment from His Majesty. Tlie Mehtur was well contented with an arrange- ment, by which he gained about 14 shillings daily. Such are Premiers at Asiatic Courts. The day had not passed ere liirdler WiiCg came to say, that tlie Mehtur was impatient to see the shawls, which he had heard I had brouglit for him. This was the more indelicate.', that the shawls were not sent him from Heraut, but |)urchased by me at Merv, and therefore' he; could only t/'ie-s that they might Ih' in- t<'n(l»;d for liim. I n-plicd, that I expected tlio usual ,, 2 68 DELICACY OF A rREMIKH. compliment of u visit from him, ni'trr wliicli, T slioukl think of sendinu^ liim any present I mii^iit tliink fit to olter him. lie r(.'i)liecl, that the Mehtur dared not call upon me, nnless expressly sent by the Khaun lln/.nrnt; that if, tlierefoi-e, 1 should wait for a visit, 1 should, in all pro1)al)ility, have no opportunity of presenting the gifts. All this was excessively inde- licate, but it may once for all be observed, that the delicacy which is occasionally allected in other coun- tries of Asia, is here never dreamed of. Perceiving this, and not feeling at lil)erty to make an enemy of the Prime Minister, 1 sent him the pair of shawls by the hand of Birdler Beeg. The latter worthy, in an- swer to my queries, said he did not think I should be sunnnoned to an audience until the day ensuing, the interval being allowed me to recruit my strength, after the passage of the desert. In the evening, Nizaum cooked for me a pilau of pheasant with rice and raisins. This bird is killed in large numbers during winter, when the snow exposes it to view. For dessert I had good grapes, some in- different apples^ and delicious melons. After dinner, I went out into the court. I gazed upon the stars, my companions in so many wanderings. Clime, peo- ple, manners, language, laws, how often had they changed: but this page of heaven, those bright and glorious intelligences, remained as before, unimpaired and unchanged ; excepting that the planets in their courses moved from house to house, presaging happi- ness or woe to the sons of men. Was I really at Khiva, that capital so famous, yet so little known, of which half the existing accounts are fabulous? Tra- vellers, presuming upon its separation from the civi- lised world, to hang upon it their wildest marvels. And in what did this city differ from others, familiar to the traveller and the merchant? The sky was remarkably pure and brilliant; the air piercingly cold. I drew closer my posteen, or cloak of fur. I thought of the fancilul story which VIRTUES OF A POSTEEN. 69 Sumraud Kliaun had related, when I purchased that cloak. " Feeroozooddeen* was one night seated in durbar. The night was excessively cold, the teeth of his people chattered, in spite of themselves. He looked round upon them with a smile, and said — We will soon teach you to bid defiance to the cold. He signed to his steward, and bade him bring from the store-room a number of posteens, corresponding to the number of his attendants. When these were distributed, and each had wrapped himself up, he said to one of these, now Daood Kliaun, take a light, give my compliments to the cold, and beg him to enter. The servant obeyed, but returned immediately with the candle extinguished. The cold, he said, in answer to your hospitable invitation, has rudely blown out the light. Indeed, said Feeroozooddeen, then give the light a posteen (fur cloak), and now go and usher in the cold." These posteens are generally of doombha's skins; the fur inside, the leather tanned to the con- sistence of wash leather, stained a buff colour, and beautifully embroidered with floss silk. The price at Heraut was about eight ducats, or 4:1. each. The more wealthy, however, wear cloth cloaks, lined throTighout with furs from Siberia. I have said that the sky was brilliant. It was now the hour of repose, and the busy murmurs of the neighbouring city had ceased. Tlie light breeze of night, blowing from the frozen wastes of Siberia, cut like the keenest sabre, whenever it found contact with the skin. Yet I liii/j^crcd long in the open air, to listen to a singular species of melod}^ with wliich the air was filled; and which resembled the distant music of a hundred Kolian harps. It was singularly pleas- ing. To my ear, sej)a rated as I was from liome, friends, country, the conveniences, comforts, endear- ments, and security ol' civilised lands, the pleasure * I insert tlii.s anecdote from nicinorv, und am not, (piitf ciTtuin I have attrilnitoeeg called to say, lie thought I should be .summoned to an audience that evening. I spent the day in arranging my thoughts, and endeavouring to mould into Persian such phrases as I thought I might have occasion foi-. it was not 74 FIRST AUDIENCE. until evening had well set ii), that the arrival of the master of ceremonies summoned me to attend the Khaun lluzurut. 1 exclianged my Afghaun attire for my only suit of uniform. Unfortunately, the cocked hat and })lume, the most indispensable portion of an l^elchie's attire in li^astern lands, were absent without leave. Instead of a sash J tied a shawl round my waist; and learning tliat it was unusual to brace on a sabi'e at audience, carried, instead, a handsome Persian da^ri^er. 1 ordered all my available servants to attend, bear- ing the sabre and rifle to be presented to the Khaun, and preceded by the master of ceremonies, rode slowly toward the palace. A large number of natives, despite the lateness of the hour, had collected on either, side the road, to gaze at me. I afterwards learned that death had been publicly denounced upon any who should molest me by word or deed, and was assured that nothing less would have secured me from insult. 1 know nothing of the people of Khaurism that can warrant such an assertion. On approaching the town we entered a considerable suburb, and after- wards passed through a miserable bazaar to the gate- way; for Khiva is fortifled. The house-tops were covered with women, collected to stare at a figure sufficiently monstrous in their eyes. It was not long before we reached, through some very poor streets, the citadel, within Avhich resides the " Father of Vic- tories," the king of Khaurism. It is a poor brick buildings forming an angle of the city defences. Near the gate stood the artillery of Khaurism, consisting of about 22 brass field-pieces, of from 6 to 12 pound calibre, very indifferently mounted upon carriages having wooden axles. One or two tumbrils were also to be seen. These guns are objects of extreme veneration to the people of Khiva. At the gate the master of ceremonies dis- mounted, and begged me to do the same. I then marched through the dense crowd collected to see mehtur's levee. 75 me, and ascended, through the gateway, the pavement leading to the Vuzeer's Hall. Not being advertised of the locality, and having no one near me from whom to inquire, the master of ceremonies being ignorant of Persian, I naturally concluded that this was the royal apartment; so leaving my shoes at the door, I entered, and looked around me to discover which of the assembly was entitled to homage. A row of common-looking figures, in the Oozbeg dress, were seated opposite. The chief of these might be old King Cole himself, for aught I knew ; however, there was no time for inquiry, so 1 bowed to the chief person, and said " Salaam alikoom," peace be upon you. There was a smile, for they all conjectured the fact, that I had mistaken the Prime Minister for the King; however, no harm was done, and I seated myself at the minister's side. I sat kneeling, to my infinite discomfort; good manners prescribe this posture, and to sit cross-legged (which to an European is comparatively easy) is re- garded as boorish, unless permission of the company be first asked. The Mehtur, or Premier, a little, dark, high-featured, long-bearded man (who always reminded me afterwards of the knave of clubs), dressed in a huge Oozbeg cap and cloak of quilted chintz, said, " You are very welcome," and instantly a piece of greasy chintz was spread before me as a table cloth, and bread, raisins, loaf sugar, and fruit were placed before me. Not yet habituated to this custom, I asked the ]\Iehtur to partake; but he ex- cused himself, it being unusual for the host to eat with his guest the first meal. 1 therefore broke ofi^, and ate a small piece of bread, and the cloth and re- freshments were removed. This hospitable ceremony is invariable amongst the Oozbegs, from whom, I believe, it is deriv('d, even where practised by the Tfjoreumuns. The Mehtur now addres.sed several compliments to iiic, and was evidently nettled at my slowness of reply. The fact is, that liis pronunciation 76 mehtur's levf.e. of Persian is barely intelligible, and my own ignorance of Eastern idiom, makes me unready in any exchange of compliments. A messenger from the Khaun IIu- zurut now summoned the Mehtur. He rose, beckoned me to remain seated, and left the hall. 1 had leisure whilst he was absent to look around me. Next and above me sat the Khojeh Mhirahm, a handsome old man, who, having been an instrument of the last Khaun's degraded pleasures, retains considerable in- fluence at Court, and is accounted a man of talent. Parallel with him, but upon the left of the Mehtur's seat, was a young priest, who, owing to his knowledge of Persian, acted as interpreter, and. was also one of the Mehtur's secretaries. On my right, at some dis- tance, sat about twenty loutish-looking fellows, in the usual Oozbeg attire. These were the nobles of Khiva. They took no share in the conversation, either then or on about a dozen other occasions, when I met them at the ]Melitur's palace. At the door sat my own and some of the Mehtur's suite. In about half an hour, during which I found my jwsture, dressed as I was in the tight attire of Europe, scarcely supportable, the Mehtur returned, and begged me to follow him to the royal presence. We proceeded through some dark and uneven passages crowded with guards, until we reached a small court in which a black tent was pitched. The" Mehtur entered, and I followed, leaving my slippers as I lifted the curtain. I bowed, and said '^ Salaam Alikoom," and then stood in the prescribed form, which resembles the military position of ease. The Khaun returned the greeting, "Alikoom Salaam," then assured me I was welcome to his Court, and asked the nature of my mission. I replied, that I had been sent by the British Envoy at Heraut, in answer to His Majesty's mission thither. That I bore credentials from the British Envoy, and also some very unworthy presents, my haste to pre- sent myself at the Court of Khiva not permitting me to bear anything more bulky. That I had instructions FIUST AUDIENCE. 7 i . to promote, to the utmost of my power, the friendship that had so happily sprung up between the British and His Majesty's government, and to place at His Majesty's disposal whatever knowledge I possessed. I made a lame business of it; but the Khaun, an amiable and good-tempered man, smiled at my mis- takes, and listened patiently to my explanations. It- is to be observed, that as the Khaun understands very little Persian, I communicated by means of the young priest before mentioned, who understands about as much Persian as myself, but speaks with an entirely different accent, so that the difficulties were manifold. It is not ray purpose to touch upon political matters at the present moment. This will, I fear, abate con- siderably from the little interest connected wdth my narrative, as the crisis was one of the utmost import- ance, not only to the Khaun himself^ and to England in an especial manner, but to the universal world. For had Russia succeeded in creeping to Khiva, the affairs of Asia must have undergone a revulsion, the consequences of which would not have closed, per- haps, with the present or coming century; and would, probably, have embroiled all the principal nations of Europe in tumult and war. The reasons which tie my tongue as to the political details of my mission, must prevent me likewise from exposing, for the be- nelit of liussia, all the immediate and eventual con- sequences, which would have attended the extension of her empire to the banks of the Oxus; suffice it, that my country is well aware of the extreme im- portance of the step, and will, if she be wise and true to herself, regard as a breach of mutual confidence any future encroachment of liussia upon the terri- tories of Khaurism. The letter from tlie British Envoy was received by t)ie Mehtur, and read aloud to the Khaun JIuzurut, who again assuring me I was welcome, dismissed me. L'Uah Koolio Khaun, tlie j)resent king of Khaurism, is about 4.0 years of age, and so far as I can judge, 78 ULLAH KOOLIE KHAUN. rather under the middle height. His face is round. The features are liii^h and reuular; tlie exj^rcssion is the most amiable possible; but there is an absence of vigour, for which, at the present crisis, nothing can atone, unless it be the powerful interposition of some foreign power. His eyes are long, and not Avell opened. His beard is decent; his family having some mixture of Sart blood. He is inclined to be stout. He was seated upon a carpet, and supported by cushions. Before him a wood fire blazed up, sending its smoke and sparks through the skylight of the tent. He shifted his posture from time to time. It was always ungraceful and unkingly. Sometimes cross- lesfired, sometimes kneelino; sometimes half reclininae, the officer living on tlie premises. I summoned this worthy, lie said, that it was usual to restrict the servants of Eelchies to their quarters for the first two or three days, and until permission for them to go abroad had been asked and granted. I therefore desired J)irdler Beeg to step over, and pre- sent my comj)lim('nts to the Mehtur, and say that I felt very unlike a British functionary, and much more like a state prisoner, under such restrictions; and begijjed him to use his influence with the Khaun IIu- zurut for their removal. That the Khaun Huzuruts ambassador at Heraut was free from the moment of his arrival, to go and to send whitliersoever he pleased, and that I claimed a like freedom. The I\Iehtur re- plied, that I must address myself personally to the sovereign. l>irdler Beeg was, however, in the course of the day, sunnnoned to attend the Khaun, and being asked how I was satisfied with my reception, replied bluntly, that I complained that I had got into a prison instead of a guest chamber. The Khaun laughed, and sent me word, that I was at liberty to send my people abroad, and myself to ride out. CHAPTER VI. Second Audience — The Russians — Persians — Bokharians — Colonel Stoddart — Treachery of the Cauzie Moolla Hussun — Message from the Minister — Visit to him — Reception — Bokhara — Colonel Stoddart — Plan for his Rescue — Particulai-s of the late Skirmish with the Russian Force N. West of the Sea of Aral — Ignorance and TimitUty of the ilinister — Extreme Difficulty of Negotiation with such a One — Messenger fi-om the Khaun Huzurut to the Ummeer of Bokhara, for the Release of Colonel Stoddart. ^pHAT nirrlit, I was again summoned to attend the -*- Kliaun Huzurut. He received me as before. Asked me, whether I was very indignant at being a prisoner, and wliether there were any objects in the neighbour- hood that I wished to examine. It never enters the head of an Asiatic, that a man may go abroad for the sake merely of air and exercise. 1 replied tliat I was tlie first iiritish Eelchie, that had ever been thus restricted. That if the usage of the country de- manded it, I v/ould comply without a murmur. ] named his garden palace as an object of curiosity, and he gave orders that it sliould be opened for my in- spection. He then pressed me very hard upon the subject of his requests of the Britisli Government. I answered, that the points in questinel Stoddart." " Has any army advanced towards J>okhara?" "That I cannot say; but it is a thing tliat may happen any day, unles.s Colonel Stoddart be released. 'JO COLONEL STODl) A lU'. It is a thing- which -vvouKl long since have ha[)pened, but for tlie i'c4uctanc5 above mentioned: for we are the natural alUes of tlie MulnuunieLlan states." He rej)liecl, "The Uninieer will not listen to the Kliiiun lluzurut. IJut the Khuun proposes the fol- lowing plan for Colonel Stoddart's rescue. The Co- lonel is allowed to ride about Bokhara" (of this 1 had some doubt.) '^ l he Khaun will send thither a small party of Toorcuniuns, provided with a note from you to Colonel Stoddart. These men will meet him on any day he may appoint, carry him by force, on a swift horse, through the gates of the city, and not pause until they are beyond pursuit; a stronger party will meet and protect them, and they will bring the Colonel to Khiva. What say you to this proposal?" The proposal was so far tempting, that 1 knew no other possible method of effecting Colonel Stoddart's release. But when I considered that the execution was to be entrusted to men, of whose sagacit}^, courage and fidelity, 1 knew nothing; that Colonel Stoddart migiit be so closely guarded, as to render the scheme impracticable; and that a hint of such a design being on footj might cause the Ummeer to take the Colonel's life, or at any rate to subject him to fresh hardships and indignities; moreover, that it was highly pro- bable this high-spirited officer might refuse to make his escape ; I rejected the proposal with grateful thanks to the Khaun, upon the plea of the peril in which it might involve that gallant, but ill-fated officer. The Khaun Huzurut had instructed the Mehtur to give me all possible information respecting affairs upon the frontier. 1 now proceeded to inquire more mimitely into particulars, of which I had already gathered the substance from Birdler Beeg and the Toorcumuns we met in journeying to Khiva. The Mehtur's statement was elicited at the expense of much cross-questioning; I shall therefore couch it in my own words. The Khaun liuzurut had despatched an army of 40,000 horse, under connjiand of the Ghoosh EXPLOITS. 91 Beegie,-*^ the second officer of the state, to repel the Ivussiun invasion. Tlie invaders, the Mehtur per- sisted in estimating at four or five hundred iniantry and a few guns. This absurd estimate had undoubt- edly in view, to make British aid seem matter of little consequence. It had, however, a grotesque effect, when the result was understood. The Ghoosh Beegie advanced witli the utmost resolution as far as tlie N. Western angle of the sea of Aral. Tt then suddenly occurred to him, that live or six hundred Koozulbaush and Toorcumun horse would answer the purpose of sweeping the idolaters from the face of the earth, fully as well as 40,000. So halting in his position, about 120 miles short of the small advanced post of the Russians, he despatched a party, with orders to seize the Russian cattle, and do any other mischief in their power. This part}', finding the snow five feet in depth, were obliged to drive before them unladen Kuzzauk galloways, to beat a path or channel through it. Through this track they advanced, the snow standing high on either side. They fell valiantly upon the cattle of the Russians, and were carrying them off in triumph, when the Russians perceiving them, sent in pursuit a party of about one hundred fusileers, who coming up with the frozen horsemen, and warmed with their own exertions, shot them like sheep. The Toorcumuns fled, leaving some thirty or forty of their party on the field, and bearing with them the consol- ing hope, that one Russian liad been hurt, 'ilie Rus- sian field-pieces opened upon tlie fugitives, who never drew rein until they reached the main army. Tlie Ghoosh Beegie, from this little affair, conceived so su];reme a C(jnteni[)t for the enemy, that he imme- (liately wrote the Kliaun Huzurut, saying, that he and his horsemen found the weather very cold; that the liussians were a miserable set of wretches, in all • Lonl falconer, literally lonl of the winged tilings. Ho is nccontl in dignity of Ktutc ufTairK, hh tin; Muhttu', or Qrooiir, is first. So sini|ilo iu the construction of u Toorkiali (Jourt. 92 PIG-EATERS DESI'ISHI). not exceeding three or loin- lnnidrcd lialf-starved, pig- eatiiig, idol-woi-sliippiiii;- sous ol' Imrnt lathers; antl that, as tlie Khaiiii lluzurut could, at any leisure iiioineiit, liive them a hru>h witli the besom of destruc- tion, lie Inuubly oi)iiied that it was quite needless to expose 4(),()()U men and htjrses to the rigour of the season, and tliat he shouUl be very much obliged to His Majesty for permission to return. The Khaun lluzurut, on hearing this, very good-naturedly re- called the force to winter (quarters at Ghoonguraut, near the southern border of the sea of Aral. They had returned in a miserable condition : many of them nmtilated by the frost ; some had lost one, some both hands; others the feet, the nose, the ears, the lips, the whole cheek, in some cases even the tongue; for the intense chill so paralyses the nerves, that those sub- jected to it are unconscious of the state of the mem- bers of their body; the tongue at night finds its way out of the mouth, and is instantly frozen and de- stroyed. The troops, however, had not yet returned to Khiva; they came in previous to my departure from that city. Such, amid a thousand hesitations and contradic- tions, I learned to be the state of things on the fron- tier. The Russians had advanced from Orenburgh, and occui)ied a fort, or, as I conjectured, an entrenched camp upon the Yem (called by the Kuzzauks Djem, and by the Russians, Embah), a small brackish stream, fonninir, with the IrHiiz, the northern limit of Khau- rism. They had also pushed on a detachment, which was entrenched half way between the Yem and the sea of Aral, and it appeared to be with this detach- ment that the skirmish had taken place. The Mehtur believed that there were about 12,000 troops at Oren- burgh, as a corps of reserve. He had heard of no advance from Astrakhan. 1 then questioned him as to the limits of the frontier of Khaurism. " Y'^ou must ask the Khauji lluzurut," was the re- RUSSIAN MUSTEK. 93 ply. It would, of course, be impossible for the Mehtur to conjecture where it might seem good or convenient to the Khaun to fix the boundary of his kingdom. All other geographical queries were equally unsatis- factory. It was evident that the Mehtur knew next to nothing of tlie features of his country, and that he was in terror of disclosing even that nothing, lest it should in any way clash with the Khaun's will and pleasure. To transact business with such a man was next to impossible. This he didn't know; that he would not answer; and the other I must ask the Khaun at my next audience. Great part of what he told me I knew to be false, and being restricted from all intercourse witli other natives, it was extremely diUicult for me to form a satisfactory judgment of the real aspect of affairs. Two Kuzzauks had, I was secretly informed, estimated the Russian force at 100,000 men, which was the estimate brought by the Khivan ambassador. The Ghoosh Beegie had killed another Kuzzauk wlio had just reconnoitred the Rus- sian camp, because he had openly declared their num- bers 10,000 just as the Ghoosh Beegie had written the Khaun, rating them at 3 or 400. The Khaun himself called them l)etween 4 and 5,000, and my best intelligence estimated them at 7.500 fighting men. Yet the Mehtur insisted that tliey were no more than 4 or 500. I was afterwards told by a soldier who affected to have been upon the expedition, and who had either contrived to enter my room at Ooralsk, or been sent purposely, that, including the reserve, they did not exceed 7,500; a force too small for the pur- ])o.se, yet which I was inclined to believe to be all employed until General Pei-rollski, their connnander, a man of the strictest honour, asserted, as a reason tliat Great !>rit:iiii should take no umbi'age at sucii an ex]t(Mliti<)ii, that his entire force did not exceed 10,000 li;jhfin,L^ men. I asked th(! Mehtur whethcir the Russians had issued any proclamation previous to the invasion, informing 94 TKOCLAMATTON. hiin tliat such was au invariable custom amongst tbo nations ot" luironc. lie i-eplied in the nc_2^ative. This however was not true; for K'ussia printed and issued a statement of her grievances, declaring that she made war, not with the peoph' of Khaurism, but Avith I'llah Kooli Khaiin, and in\ iting his subjects to rise against their lord, a proclamation, l)e it observed, which entitled the Khaun to treat every Kussian captive as a common robber, and hang him Avithout trial. I am not sure, however, that the Mehtur was aware of this proclamation. I was not, until I reached Xuov Alexandrof (Dahsh Gullah). I asked what the Mehtur believed to be the j)lea of Russia for this invasion ; but he referred me to the Khaun, " When was the invasion first reported?" " The Russians have been always encroaching, and building forts on our frontier. This year they have come in greater force and a little farther than usual." I told the Mehtur that I must uvixe, in the strongest terms, the speedy delivery to Russia of all her sub- jects enslaved in Khaurism ; that, without this act of justice, they could expect no assistance from us in the adjustment of their quarrel; that justice was a sacred law, Avhich we could not infringe for any considera- tion ; that the reason we v/ere the greatest nation on earth was, that we were the most just, and had there- fore the confidence of all other nations. lie assured me that the Ivhaun would release all the captives. Afterwards, our discourse took a turn which need not be detailed. Suffice it that, when I had been obliged to excuse myself from directly answering any one of the demands of the Khaun, the A^uzeer bluntlv asked me, " What then have you come hither for? If you will grant none of our demands, of what use is it to call yourselves our allies?" I replied that, if I had come in vain, the loss was A SHREWD QUESTION. 95 my own, and not his, nor his master's ; and that I was quite ready to return. But that I offered them, \v\vAt none had ever repented of acceptino-, — the friendship and £:ood offices of the o-reatest nation on earth. It was for the Khaun to judge whether he should accept or reject them, or whether, without them, he could secure his kingdom against a Kussian invasion; or Avhether the deeds of arms lately exhibited gave him any confidence of success in a struggle with Russia. I begged him to remember that the late result was from the opposition of 40,000 troops of Khiva to 400 Russians,* and asked what he purposed doing, if Rus- sia should appear 40,000 strong, as she easily might, and would, if necessary. This lowered his assumed tone. I enquired whether the Khaun purposed using my services. He replied, '' Yes ! yes ! "' and was evi- dently alarmed at the picture I had drawn. The result ] derived from this interview was simply that the Vuzeer was bent upon deceiving me, with a view to hold cheap the assistance of England. Infor- mation I had gained none; all that was true I had previously heard, and the greater part I knew to be false. That night I was awakened by a messenger from the Khaun Huzurut, who informed me that he was to proceed in the course of an hour towards Bokhara, with a letter for the Ummeer, urging the release of Colonel Stoddart. It was hinted to me that the Khaun had written in terms which the Ummeer would not dare to disregard I gave this messenger a handsome present, and I believe he was sent me for the purpose of receiving it, as much as with the view of satisfying me of the Khaun's sclicitude for the release of Colonel Stoddart. ♦ I here usod the Mohtur's own estimate against him ; tlic numbers of the Khivan army were miicli smaller. CHAPTER VII. Third Audience of the Khaun Huzurut — Explication of British Policy in Afghaunistan — The Great Mogul — Expei-tness of Russian Artillery- men — Di.sniissal — Proposal that my Letters should be read by the Khaun Huzurut — Difficulties of Correspondence — Rapacity of the Minister — Fourth Audience — Promise to restore the Russian Cap- tives — My Objection to their unconditional Release whilst a Russian Army was advancing upon the Capital — Nature and Origin of the Misunderstanding between Russia and Khiva — Russia the Aggressor — Estimated Strength of the Army of Invasion — Its Arrest by the Snow — Skirmish — Terrors of a 6-lb. Shot — Ruminations. A T my next audience, I read, at the Kliaun's desire, ^^ the sketch I had drawn up of the political divi- sions of Europe, with which 1 deemed it important he should be acquainted- shewed him liow a nation, politically allied to us in Europe, had, in Asia, inte- rests separate from ours. I presented the Khaun with a map of the world, wherein J had inserted, in Persian characters, the names of the principal states and cities— shewed him how important to the inte- rests of our Indian empire was the integrity of Khaurism and Persia, yet how useless to us would be the lands of ihose sates, too poor to pay the ex- pense of occupation, and a stronger barrier to India in their independence than they could be in our hands. I painted to him, in strong colours, the horrors of war between the higher powers of Eur()[)e, costing the lives of millions, the trampling to dust of lesser stutes, the expenditure of endless treasure. I shewed that true policy consisted in avoiding such wars, by timely measures in preventing the approach of a mighty nation, whom, nevertheless, we did not fear. BRITISH POLICY. 97 I then gave a brief narrative of the late campaign in Afgliaunistan. His Majesty Shah Slioojah-ool- Moolk had been our guest the last twenty years. AVe protected and supported him; but to his entreaties for an army to recover his possessions, Ave had re- plied, that "sve had no quarrel with Doost ]\Iuhummud Khaun, and the chiefs of Candahar. That we could not constitute ourselves judges of tlie affairs of neifrh- bouring states, so long as they did not molest us. But that when we discovered that the Ummeer and the chiefs had entered into a compact with our ene- mies, to admit through their territories an army for the invasion of India, the aspect of the case was changed, and giving His Majesty Shah Shoqjah an army of 20,000 men, we reseated him upon the throne of his ancestors. That it was our system never to break a treaty, nor to be the aggressors in a war. That in the heart of our Indian possessions existed several Muhummedan and other states, hav- ing rich lands and revenue, and no armies for their protection ; that, nevertheless, we never had molested nor ever should molest them, unless they should be- come the aggressors. That our empire was built on justice and good faith, and the confidence which those principles begot for their possessors. Wiien I had concluded a paper, of which the above contains but the heads of matter, and wiiich was therefore somewhat lengthy, His Majesty inquired, " Of whom did you conquer Delhi?" " Of the Mahrattas, a race of Hindoos who had wrested it from the Moguls." "Does not a Mogul king still reign there?" "Yes! on taking Delhi we guaranteed to the Kmperor. whom we found beleaguered there, all the territory left him by the M.ahrattas. He enjoys it still. The revenue is twelve lacs. After some inquiries as to the military force of Russia, the Khaun inquired, " How many guns has \iw Hsia ;" vol,. I. H 98 ARTILTT-KY MATTERS. " I cannot form an idea, but the number is great." " I," said the Kliauu, " liave twenty, how many has the Queen of Enghuid.^" " The number is too great to be reckoned, and therefore no account is kept of them. The seas are covered with the ships of Kngland, each bearing from twenty to one hundred and twenty guns of the largest size. Her forts are full of cannon, and thou- sands lie in every magazine. The very posts in our streets arc often made, of guns, wliicli, in Persia and Afghaunistaun Avould be considered excellent. We have more guns than any nation in the world." "And how often can your artillerymen fire?" " Our field artillery can fire about seven times in a minute; but such firing would produce little eflfect." " The Russians fire their guns twelve times in a minute." " Your Majesty has been misformed ; I myself be- long to the artillery, and know such firing to be im- possible." " The Persian ambassador asserts it." " He is misinformed. No artillery on earth are more expert than the British, yet we never by choice fire more than four rounds in a minute, because we Avould not throw away our fire, as must happen when the gun is not pointed each time of firing. We count not the number of shots fired, but the number that take efi'ect." 1 was now dismissed, but not until I had again urged the necessity of conveying my letters to I^eraut, and had again been promised an immediate opportunity. AVhen I afterwards urged tliis subject upon the Mehtur, he said, " Cannot you write your letters in Persian, and submit them, in the first place, for the perusal of the Khaun Iluzurut?" I replied that such an indignity would not, I was assured, be put upon an agent of the British Government. That my services were not forced upon the Khaun, who was at liberty to trust or distrust me, as he thought TRIBUTE. 99 fit. That if he trusted me, he would not distrust my letters. If he distrusted me, the sooner he dismissed me on my return to Heraut, the better. The Mehtur said, " Very well, prepare your letters as you please, they shall be sent forthwith." Never- theless, no orders were issued for their conveyance, and 1 was still reluctant to engage in secret corre- spondence with Heraut (a matter of the utmost diffi- culty from a position so isolated by deserts), because, the discovery of such a system would increase ten- fold the suspicions, already haunting the Khaun's mind. I once .more urged Mehtur to remember his promise of giving freedom to Ununeer Beeg, a Goolaum', or Government oflicer attached to the Persian mission, who had been taken prisoner and made a slave by Toorcumuns, whilst carrying des- patches from Colonel Stoddart, at Heraut, to Sir John M'Xeil. He promised that the man should be speedily released. Birdler heeg, a few mornings after my arrival, came to me with a messao;e from the Mehtur, xiskinff whether I had not got some little presents for him, such as a brace of pistols, penknives that cut steel, telescopes, and watches ? " You, of course, assured him that I had not. That I travelled Chuppah (post), and could with difficulty carry the few presents destined for the Khaun Huzurut." It was sufficiently manifest, from Birdler Beeg's manner, that he had told a very different tale; a piece of treachery, which the favours he had received ren- dered doubly base. "Your watch," the Mehtur says, "will do very well." "Tell him he cannot have it. It was the gift of a brother no longer living. And besides, 1 ca]\not irKii-ch in any comfort without it." The fact is, that -•ill mv distances were estimated by the watch, anrotecti(Hi, tluH)iii]^h his own territories. That I did not Avish to travel in state, and thouf^ht that a large number of horsemen, besides being difficult to feed in the dese-i't, might increase my embarrassment, by occasioning alarm and suspicion at outposts, lie observed, that this escort might be detained by the Russians. 1 replied, that they need not proceed the entire distance, but might halt some miles short of the frontier, giving ine a guide to pilot me the rest of the journey, and accompany me back in case of a re- pulse. He asked me, whether I thought the Khauu should send an Eelchie of his own with me. I said, that the Khaun would of course do as he pleased. If the Eelchie were sent, I would accompany him : but, if he wished for my opinion, I could not recommend such a measure. Three Khiva ambassadors had, al- ready, been arrested, and insulted. ]\Iy chance of a free passage lay in my present disconnection with Khiva. The company of a Khiva envoy would, pro- bably, form an excuse for repulsing me. A map of the world, the production of a profound Oozbcg philosopher, was then produced; I begged a clue to this singular chart, and was rather surjjrised to find that Italy lay north of England; and Kussia south of China. My poor English map of the -world w^ould, I foresaw, fall into great discredit, in presence of so well authenticated a chart. As to pleading the cause of Italy or China, I was not fond enough to attempt anything so hopeless. But after turning up the whites of my eyes, in compliment to the profound science of the Oozbegs, returned the map, consider- ably enlightened upon the subject of Eastern geo- graphy. My own map, or rather the map I had given the Khaun, was called for, and the Mehtur begged me to point out the British and the Russian dominions. "Ah," he said, " Kussia is larger than England." ENGLISH HABITS. 109 " You are mistaken. This very question was the subject of a bet between the Enghsh and the Russian missions at Tehraun, which, after the most careful investigation, was decided in favour of the English. England has absolutely more territory, about five times the number of subjects, and several times more revenue than Russia. But this is not all ; for a glance at the map will shew you, that the water of the world exceeds, about three times, tiie dry land, and, wherever the ocean rolls, there my Queen has no rival." We then fell into conversation upon the habits of Europe. "Are you fond of hawking?" he enquired: "does your Queen hawk ?" " }>[y Queen is an accomplished rider, but hawking, although nmch practised in former days, is at present almost impossible in England, owing to the high state of cultivation." " But in the wilderness?" " We have no wilderness ; at least the few scraps left by the plough may be several days' journey (i. e. Eastern days of journey) distant. The whole country is like a garden." " But you could ride over the fields?" " The fields, in England, are each a separate gar- den, so to speak, enclosed with ditches and a wall of thorny trees; the entrance being a high gate on hinges. Now, it is necessary, in following the falcon, to keep the eye ever fixed on the heavens, it is impos- sible to hawk over enclosed fields ; but we follow the stag, the fox, and hare." " But how, over these walls?" " We teach our horses to leap them.'' " That must be dangerous. Our horses canncjt leap." " We account this the; most exciting circumstance of the (thasc, because it tries tiie mettle «)1 tlic liorse, the rowvAiii' and skill of flie ridei'." IK; WTTO I-^ KIIOOK? " Do the En^'lish oat Kliook (pi«?)?" " Kat wliiit?" I inquired, vciy iniiocoiitly. " Kliook " (i>i^). " Wliat is Khook/" Now, neitluT the Mclitui- nor tlic interpreter hav- ing ever seen a pip^, in all their lives, it was no easy matter for them to describe the unclean beast. The interpreter commenced a chnnsy attempt; I heard liim out patiently, and then said — " You mean that animal with long ears and a sweet voice. The Khur (ass). No! we never eat any- tliinjG^ so unclean." This was a back stroke at the Oozbegs, which \ thought might be useful. They devour the wild ass. " I don't mean tlie Khur," persisted tlie inter- preter, " I mean Khook, Khook," looking me in the eyes. " Don't you know what Khook is.'" I hadn't the slightest intention of knowing. " Khook," I repeated dreamily with a most lamb- like stare of innocence; ''Khook. Oh! you mean that big bird with red cheeks, that flaps his wings and wakes us in the morning; }'es, we eat him." "No! I don't mean the cock; but Khook, Khook.'' " Well then," I said, if it is neither beast nor fowl, perhaps it is a fish." The interpreter could not, in politeness, press the matter farther. The question, I well understood to proceed I'rom any thing but idle curiosity. The knowledge, that the English are a pig-eating genera- tion, would have been, at that moment, an effectual barrier to all alliance between the states; for a hearty detestation of pork may be said to be the only vital spark surviving, in the religion of him of Mecca. My own servants had not a suspicion of our monster- eating propensities. For they had seen me slay several plump wild hogs, and leave the carcases in the fit'ld — a necessary precaution, wliich every mem- ber of rhf mission equally observed. ArOT.OGY TO HDT. I 1 1 Ah ! ye luscious, cosy ones of the earth ! ye savory haunched Tuscans ! Beloved of Achilles and Theseus ! Not abhorred of the all-beauteous Helen ! How often hath my heart bled, my mouth watered in vain, as I left you to the foul jaws of the grave-digging Hy?ena, the fouler beak of the loathsome vulture ! Visit not, with lean haunches, my involuntary crime ! Think of the glorious amends I made you in London, when out of eye-shot of the faithful Summud Khaun ! Think, ye jolly ones, of the thin red slices, deep set in con- solidated marrow, edged with melting amber, stuck with cloves from the Indian Isles! Say, did I not make amends in those few days, by the keenness of my gusto, for seventeen years of lean abstinence from your classic bounties, eaten to the tune of " fresh rolls and golden butter," digested (0! forgive me) beneath the inspiring influence of my native skies ! My time passed heavily enough at Khiva. I had once gone forth to see the King's garden and palace, but I was attended by the ]\Iajor Domo, and received a hint, that it might be as well not to speak to, nor even to look, attentively, at any one I might happen to meet. On visitin^: the Mehtur afterwards, he inquired what I had made the dimensions of the garden, and seemed incredulous, when I assured him I had made no measurements. This little incident was a lesson to me, to prefer complete seclusion, to the humiliation of being dogged by spies, and of being myself suspected of spying out the nakedness of tlie land. I had early perceived, that the main difficulty at Kliiva, and my most important duty, would be, to win confidence, in s[)it(' of all the engines set on foot, to render me suspected. I was not without my share of curiosity, and knew of how nmch consequence to the learned worhl are jill partieMilars, relative to the Oxus and the Sea of Aral, whicli I had long thirsted to visit. I>ut I remembered, that in a few months, could I only win tiic confidenc*! of the Kliaun, all these objects would be open to our investigation, and 1 1 2 ENNUI. that my own political duties could not, for an instant, be weighed against tliosc rclatiii*^ only to science. 1 therefore" resigned with a sigh, but without jealousy, to some more fortunate successor, discoveries quite Avithin my reach, but which prudence forbad me to stretch my hand to grasp. I liad brought with me a few oft-porused books, which were some relief to the tedium of my imprison- ment; but my furniture was so miserable, that T had little temi)tation to use the pen; an exercise, during whicli I was obliged to bolt my door; and, indeed, I dared not make any memoranda, which sent to Ileraut, and opened on the road by the Khaun, might have seemed to him the production of a spy; or which, falling into the hands of Russia, would have been useful hints to her, in her designs upon Khiva. Certain very important particulars, of which a copy had been sent to Cabul, and which I wished to bear to the British ambassador at St. Petersburg, lest the said copy should be lost, I travestied, threw into verse, and committed to memory, destroying the paper. They are curious, but cannot just now see the light. When next I was summoned to attend the Khaun Iluzurut, and ushered, as usual, in the first place, into the ^lehtur's durbar, ^a French book was placed before me, and I was asked whether I could read it. I opened, and found it to be the travels of Meyendorf to liokhara, from Orenburgh. I informed the Mehtur of the nature of its contents. He opened it occasion- ally, and begged me to read a passage into Persian, a task, at that time, by no means easy to me. I felt the whole time a little uneasy, because the traps already laid for me, made me apprehensive of a snare, :ind I thought it probable this book had been taken from the Russians, and would pass as a Russiim book; in which case, my aflirmation of ignorance of the Russian tongue would appear a falsehood. I was careful, therefore, to explain, that this language was GUNS. 113 generally used in Europe, as a medium of intercourse between states, whose language differed; even as Persian is employed throughout the East. I offered to translate into Persian any part, or parts of this work, for the information of the Khaun. 1 was soon summoned to attend the Khaun in his black tent. lie asked some further particulars of the book, which I rendered him. He then told me, it had been seized in a caravan, proceeding from the Russian frontier to Bokhara. Many seals and letters were also exhibited, but the latter being in the Russian character, were to me illegible. The Khaun enquired of the manufacture of guns, and whether, in this art, the English did not excel all other nations. I assured him he was rightly informed. He ordered several guns to be produced, and I told him the names of the cities in which they had been made. A air-gun was then placed in my hand, and I was asked whether I could tell, what it was? I, of course, explained, and asked for the air-pump, which was produced. The gun, however, was out of order, and the key was lost; I offered to repair it, and it was sent to my quarters for the purpose : but owing to my being obliged to make up every instrument 1 required, and a wooden model for the key, it was many days before I could repair the damage. This gun had no maker's name, nor could I ever learn its history; but I guessed, from the mystery attending it, that it liad either been taken in the ])lunder of a caravan, or from the travellers, murdered about two years previously at Khiva. I explained to the Khaun the nature and power of the steam gun, which discharges sixty l)alls in a minute, tlms rendering utterly impracticable any breach defended Ijy it. Speaking of Colonel Stoddart, the Khaun said, " I hear, that the Russian ambassador at Hokhai-a ap|>lied to the Urnme'cr, for (Jolonel Stoddart's freedom, and tiiat h<' should !)e delivered, for the j)urpose, to tiie VOL. I. I 1 1 1 COLONEL STODDAHT. liussian govornment.. Tluit, upon this, tlu; Ummeer summoned ('olonel Stoddart, and asked him whetlior tlie Russians were likely to treat him well, and what he thou, my remembrance of Lord Amherst's Embassy not being very distinct. CHAPTER IX. Delay iu my Missiou, aud the impatience under it — Cross Examination upon Articles of Faith — Kawff" — Baub-ool-Mandeb — People and Cus- toms of Hindostauu — Mungh Kislilauk Guide — His Testimony — Another Auilience — Inhabitants of the Ocean — Fish — Seqjeuts — Sub-marine SaiUng — Gun Vessels — Sea Fights — Towns in the Sea — Magic — Contrivances as Wonderful iu Common Use by the Bi-itish — Steam Looms — Mints — Telegraphs — Steam Vessels and Steam Car- riages — Our Well of Alchemy — Origin of the Ducat — Private Intelli- gence — Extreme Anxiety of the Khaun Huzurut to effect Colonel Stoddart's Release, and bring him to Khiva. SEVERAL days elapsed, since the Khaun had ex- pressed his determination to use my services : but the day of departure seemed as distant as ever. I fretted with impatience at a deLay, which threatened to render my agency vain. The Khaun Huzurut in reply said, that the roads were not yet open, that the direct route, via Orenburgh, was buried live feet be- neatli the snow, and tliat the Caspian was still frozen. I said, that I would run any risk, rather than the failure of my mission, which delay must occasion. That if it were necessary to await the breaking up of the ice from the Caspian, I had better do so on the shores of that sea, to be always watching my oppor- tunity, lest the first boat should escape me. lUit I could, at any rate, even now try the Orenburgh route, which, by one properly clad and mounted, might be I was summoned to an audience of the Khann Huzurut. In the Mehtur's palace 1 found an unusual assembly, ut the liussians are Christians?" " They so eall themselves." *' And they worship images. The English arc Christians, do they not the same ?" "Are you a Kawfur? 1 have twice told you, that the English do not worship idols, are not Kaw- furs. How do you like being asked if you are a Ka\\^ur ? If you do not like it, why do you insult your guest by the question ?" This I said with much assumed warmth of manner, for 1 was anxious to close a discussion, that might be embarrassing if carried farther. The Mehtur apolo- gised, and begged me not to be affronted. The inter- preter, at a signal from him, discontinued the questions, which had all been concocted and written down for the occasion. What followed were matters of curiosity. " Have you ever seen the mountains of Kawf ?" "Never; but many of our travellers have crossed them." " Indeed ; where are they ?" " They separate Persia from lioume." " These are not the mountains I allude to. I mean those, in which Alexander the Great shut up Gog and Magog and the jins, in large caverns." " These are the very same." "No! No! The Kawf, I mean, has never been seen, and cannot be crossed. The first morning shews itself, through a chink in these mountains, which are far away to the east, but nobody knows where. You say that Colonel Stoddart has sailed round the world, did he never see them ?" HINDOSTAUN. 123 " Not the Kawf you allude to, but he has probably seen the mountahis which we, the Persians and Turks, call Kawf, although their present name is Elboorz, for he was long in Persia," " Have you ever seen Baub-ool-Mandeb (1 believed this was the name), where an angel stands whirling a fiery sword?" " The entrance to the Arabian sea is so called, but I never heard of the angel." " The next question related to some well in Hin- doostaun, where some other angel dwelt, or was con- fined, but it has escaped my memory." '' How is Hindoostaun peopled ? " " Chiefly by two races, the Hindoos and the ^foosul- mauns: the first being the original inhabitants, the second descendants of the soldiers of Sooltaun Mai- mood of Ghuzni, who was a Toork, although his sol- diers were generally Afghauns; and descendants of the soldiers of Timoor Lungh, who were Moguls. The number of my Queen's Muhummedan subjects exceeds the entire population of Khaurism and Bok- hara. They are undisturl)ed in the exercise of their faith, and their rights and property are ns secure as those of Englishmen. The bulk of our Indian cavalry, those employed at Cabul, are Moosulmauns, generally Soonnies. This will shew you how absurd are the reports made to tlie Khaun by our enemies, that we cast the Koraun into the ditches at Cabul. Such an act would lose us, in all probability, our empire in India." "Are there any men in India who worship dogs? " " I have heard of none; one of their idols has the shape of a monkey, anotlier has an elepiiant's head. The cow is sacred, and they will not kill the wolf, nor the most deadly of their snakes, l^ecause they are sacred to tlie Goddess of Destruction. Their nR)st extraordinary superstition is the tenderness some of them liave f(^r animal life. This is carried so far, that lands ai-e Icit bv tin- pious to feed men who are 121 ROUTES AND to feed upon tluir Ixxlies the lice and descendants of tlie lice of t lie testator." Tliese topics were continued, to the extreme auiuse- mcnt of all the company, hut the rest of the conver- sation has escaped me. Tlie Mehtur, who had been sununoned by the Khaun, now returned and asked me whether I wished to go to St. Petersburg. 1 replied that I wished to do exactly as the Khaun lluzurut might command; that for myself the undertaking was fraught with peril, not only to my life, V)ut to my fame; for, if it should not succeed, I should be in disgrace with both my own government and the Khaun Huzurut: that, nevertheless, I was quite ready to go, and saw the necessity of losing no time in doing whatever was to be done ; for the snow was fast melting, and opening the road of the Russian advance. lie assured me I should be speedily under way, and asked by what route I purposed travelling. I said that I had lately been given to understand, by messages, that the Kliaun JIuzurut had decided upon the Orenburgh route ; that I left the choice to liis Majesty. He re- })licd that the Orenburgh route Avas not open ; that the Khaun Huzurut thought that by Mungh Kish- lauk preferable. I was surprised, but rather agree- ably so, for I considered this route the least diffi- cult. He added that the Khaun Huzurut wished me to consult a Mungh Kishlauk guide upon the subject. This guide, a Kuzzauk in a sheepskin cloak and wolf- skin bonnet, both with the fur inward, was accord- ingly introduced. In answer to my queries, he said that the Caspian, by the time T could reach it, would be free from ice ; that at Mungh Kishlauk were always plenty of boats, belonging to the Russians and No- gyes, or Russian Tartars ; that the Caspian had been frozen as far as to three miles from the shore, but was now nearly free from ice; that he was just arrived from thence, and had found snow upon the road : that Dash Ghullali was about three marches from Mungh GUIDES. 125 Kishlauk, was garrisoned by 600 Russian infantry and some artillery ; that it lay north of Mungh Kish- lauk; that Mungh Kishlauk was west of Khiva, and distant from it sixteen camel marches, or 480 miles; that the Bokhara caravans found boats there every year for Astrakhan; that there was no town there, but there were very extensive camps of Kuzzauks and Toorcumuns. This was all that I could learn of liim through the interpreter, and the result was favourable to the Khaun's present intention. I expressed my readiness to follow this route. I then attended the Khaun Huzurut. He was as usual very gracious; asked whether I had selected my route, whether I had consulted the guide, and when I should be ready to start. I replied that I was given to understand his Majesty preferred the Mungh Kishlauk route, a sentiment in which I heartily concurred; that 1 had consulted the guide, and would be ready to start in three days, provided that orders were given to allow me to make the requi- site purchases. He then asked many questions relat- ing to Europe. "Was it true that the ocean con- tained monstrous fish ?" "Quite true; I had seen many that were upwards of fifty feet in length, and had walked in the skeleton of anotlier of ninety feet." " Are there any sea-serpents?" " There are undoubtedly in the sea serpents of or- dinary size. I myself have seen many. But it is reported that the sea contains a serpent of enormous size, upwards of 100 feet in length and of great thick- ness, with head and long mane like tliose of the horse, wliich it elevates to a uvuut heiirht above the waters. This I had not seen, and its existence was doubtful." " Is it tru(! tliat your sliips sail under water ?" " It is not true; we have macliincs I))- wliich we can descend safely and remain at the bottom ol" the sea. Indeed an Americati invented one, in whicli a man could travel about under water. Its object was, 12lied, that our Governments were at peace. That an Eiiglisli aml>assador was at St. Peters- burgh, a Russian an)bassa(h)r at London. Thxit aniorigst the nations f»l" Kuiope free intercourso was iv 2 l;')2 WATCIIINC r(»l{ A S1,A\'H. luiiiiitaiiifd hctWLvn the states until declaration of hostilities, ami that Russia had too <^reat respect for (nvat I>ritain to molest ji British subject. Tile Kliauii rmiarkcd, that they had arrested all his ambassadors. Such things, I said, might occur Avhere retaliation was impossible; but that the capitals of Great Britain and liussia were only ten days' sail apart, and that the naval and military force of England Avere too for- midable to be trifled with. At my next interview with the Mehtur, certain letters were produced, and translated from Toorkish into Persian, for my informatit)n. 1 took copies, and corrected several capital errors; I discussed with him other public business, and then pressed upon him the release of the Goolaura, Ummeer Beeg, reminding him of his oft-repeated promise to release him. "What," said he, " will you give me for him?" It is to be observed that he had promised to free him without price. " Any fair price." " You shall have him for a thousand ducats." " Such a sum was never given for a slave, unless he were a chief. Forty ducats would be a large price, but, for the sake of friendship, I will give you a hundred." " I won't take money for him ; I will give him for your watch." This was a hard bargain, but I could not for an instant hesitate to end, by any sacrifice of sentiment, the misery of poor Ummeer Beeg, so I drew out and gave him my faithful companion, and he promised that the Goulaum should be released, a promise of which the execution was long deferred. Ummeer Beeg, was a Government servant, and his release formed part of my instructions. I did not, therefore, scruple to charge Government the price of an ordi- naiy silver watch ; though, had it been necessary, I had willingly stripped myself of all my property to procure the freedom of this gallant fellow. QUACKERY. 133 The Mehtur was as delighted with the watch as I have seen a child with his first rattle, before the poetry of the thing has given way to curiosity and the organ of destructiveness, and he has discovered the simple and prosaic process by whicli those glo- rious tooth-enlivening sounds are produced. But far from being contented with this addition to his stock of three or four, he begged me to write to the British envoy and minister at Cabul for another, adding, that no number of watches would satisfy him, and that he very much desired a night telescope. He again pressed me to doctor his sick servant, and, although the case was very simple, and 1 believed I had the means of curing it, I steadily declined, upon the oft-urged plea, that my mission was of too much im- portance to be risked for any consideration. Success in one instance would have rendered it impossible to refuse aid in others. Some of the patients might get worse under treatment, or die, or be executed, Avithin twenty years of taking the Feringee medicine, and the British character would be lost. He also be<2:<2:ed for some more calomel, but this I declined, regretting that I should already have suffered his solicitations to prevail. I was curious to know the j^urpose for which he required it. He had obtained the former supply upon pretence of some alchemical experiment. He now assured me that he took it daily. I remon- strated in the strongest terms against the folly of employing this medicine idly, telling him its horrible effects, but he only lauglied. ^lercury is a nostrum, to wliich Asiatics ascribe many miraculous properties, for instance, the determininir of tlie sex of the child -I to be begotten. He afterwards pressed me for what he called warm medicines, to invigorate the constitu- tion. I am very dull at stich liints, lieing myself a water drinkei*; and he was at length obliged to state pretty broadly tlie nature of the medicine in rec|uest, to wit, brandy or other s[)irits. 1 assured him I liad none, and never used such things. I could indeed 131 KITE OF KHAURISM. have procured him a supply from the Jews and Hin- doos, who, in .s})it(.' of ])riL'stly and royal edicts, make this article ior the nobles of Khiva, had 1 deemed it either a safe or respectable means of ingratiating myself with him. As I had now completed the repairs of the Khaun's air-gun, I exhibited it, to his great astonishment and delight. I shewed him how to use the pump, to load and discharge the piece, and explained to him, by means of the former, the principle of the steam engine. I was not present when it was taken to the Khaun, but understand that he was e(jually delighted. The Mehtur pressed me hard to repair his watches, but having no instruments, 1 would not run the risk. In riding home, poor Ummeer Beeg, whose release I had just purchased, came and kissed my hand. I begged him, ibr tlie present, to keep aloof, lest he should incense his master against him ; telling him, 1 doubted not he would be set free in a few days. Seeing some children on the road with their paper kites, I approached to examine the contrivance by which these toys emit a musical sound whilst floating in the air. The contrivance is very simple, and quite worthy of adoption into England. The kite is a scjuare, formed upon two diagonals of light wood, whose extremities are connected by a tight string, forming the sides of the square. Over the whole paper is pasted. A loose string upon the upright diagonal receives the string by which the kite is to be held, and a tail is fastened to its lower extremity. The transverse diagonal, or cross-stick is then bent back like a strung bow, and fastened by a thread or cat-gut. Of course, every breeze that passes the kite vibrates this tight chord, and the vibrations are communicated to the highly sonorous frame of the kite. And, as numbers of these kites are left floating in the air all night, the effect is that of aerial music; monotonous, but full of melancholy interest. On my first arrival KITE OF KHAUKISxM. 185 at Khiva, I was much struck with this novel, dreamy melody, which continued the livelong night. My servants had assured me it proceeded from the Jew's harps, which the women of Khiva are fond of playing, and that the Melitur, whom I had once asked about it, turned pale with anger, thinking that, like the last ambassador from Heraut, I had been serenaded by the fair ones of Khiva. Alackaday ! no such good fortune was mine. CHAPTKR XI. Visit of ail Afghaun Priest — Reports relative to Bokhara — Feast given by the Khaun Iluzurut — Arrangement of Guests — Purgatory of Knees and Ancles — Persian Ambiissador — Punislnuent of Dinner- odoxy — Inauk of Iluzarusp — Tlie Bee — An Oozbeg Dinner — Holy Ainiour of the Priests — Accounted for upon ^Muhumniedun Princi- ples — Virtue of the Narr of Soups — Mutton, Spartan, Maigre, Chicken Broth, Ox Tail, Mock Turtle— Turtle ! ABOUT this time an old Afghaun priest was brought to see me. He was a tall, and had been a fine man, but was evidently labouring under some malady. His face was ridiculously like an old he-goat's and his cough, which was almost incessant, completed his resemblance to that quadruped. He commenced, with many gasps, to ask whether I had brought with me any strengthening medicines. I desired him to state his case, which he attempted, but I could make nothing out of it, excepting that fits of extreme (lebiHty assailed him, and that he had heard I had medicines for strengthening the heart. I told him, I dared not give medicine at Khiva, but recommended tlie use of cheretta, free air, simple food, and as much exercise as he could bear. On hearing this, he gasped twice as much, was sure I had medicine, warm medi- cine for strengtliening the heart, and entreated me to bestow it upon him. 1 perceived now, what my water drinking habits always made me sIoav to understand - that he required wnne or brandy, and again assured him that I had not the articles he desired, and that I never made use of them. I then inquired tli > news from Bokhara. This, as he related it, was full of interest; he confirmed the NEWS FROM BOKHARA. 137 Khaun Hiizurut's intelligence, and added, that the Unimeer had previously turned Doost Muhuinmud Khaun out of the city, on some suspicion, but allowed him a house in the suburbs, where he was much neo;lected. That the Ummeer one ni2:ht sent for the Boost's youngest son, a youth of fifteen : a summons which, coming from such a monster as the Ummeer, was equivalent to the grossest insult. That the Boost's eldest son sent back an answer of defiance, and collecting his people about him, prepared to quit a country where guests were liable to such treatment. That the Bokhara forces were sent to attack him, and found him, and his little band of 400, encamped in a burying ground. That two thousand Oozbeg troops attacked the post, but after several hours lighting, were repulsed with great slaughter. Upon learning which, the CJmmeer had desisted from hostilities. This news, which I had no other reason to doubt than any other news, of which, in these countries, about ninety-nine particulars in every hundred are lies, delighted my servants, and were received by all the Afghauns at Khiva, with great exultation. The English bayonet, they said, and the Afghaun scimitar, will conquer the world. I have never been able to discover, wherher there was any truth whatever in this ingenious tale. When I liad given this old priest a present, and dismissed him, 1 inquired of my servants, if they knew what ailed him. " 0! yes," they replied, "his malady is a tlnrd wife, whom he has just married." Notwithstanding that 1 had i)nrchased Ummeer Beeg's freedom, days and weeks elapsed, and still he was not released. Every time I visited the Mehtur, I saw the p(jor fellow at a distance, eyeing me wist- fully. He was easily distinguished by his tall, manly figure ill id handsome features, wliich no meanness of dress c(juld disguise. r)iice he had called upon me : but J enti'eated him to forbcai' any sucli dcinoiist ration, lest he should i-oiiN. the ji al(ju>\ of the ^h litiir. hi^ l.'>8 MOOHURRUM. master, against hiin. I assured liim, that if the Melitur sliould iicLrlcct liis promise, 1 would appeal to the Khauu lluzurut, who certainly would see justice done to him and me. Meanwhile, I was wearing out myseir with impatience. Tlie festival of the Moohurrum arrived. I am per- haps noticing it in the wrong place. Khulluts, or dresses of honour, were sent for me and my suite, consisting of very indifferent cloaks for me and them, and an Oozbeg cap for myself. For these wretched articles, I was expected to pay about double their actual cost, as the fee of the ]\Iajor Domo, who brought them. On this day the Khaun and all the nobles attended at the mosque, and some of my people went thither also. ]\Iy religion kept me at home, and I was not sorry of any excuse for avoiding crowds, in which the boorishness of the Oozbeg and Toorcumun exposes a stranger to many petty provo- cations and annoyances. The ceremony, as described by my servants, was not worthy to be witnessed or detailed. The princi- pal Musjid (mosque) is not domed, but flat-roofed, propped upon pillars of wood. A few days subsequent to this ceremony, the mas- ter of ceremonies waited upon me, and informed me that the Khaun Huzurut had prepared a feast, at which he requested my attendance. He added, that as I should have to sit a long space, I had better dress in my Asiatic attire ; and it was suggested that I should wear the Oozbeg cap, sent rae by the Khaun, instead of my turban of white muslin. This was probably to avoid scandal to the priesthood, who alone, in these countries, wear white turbans, and who were to be there in full divan. I went accordingly at the hour appointed, and was ushered into a large hall of the palace, in which I found assembled some sixty or seventy persons, chiefly, priests. Tiie principal of these, the Sheikh-ool- Islaum, was seated at the head of the room. On the right ROYAL BANQUET. 139 hand, an unbroken line of priests succeeded, seated on tbt-'ir knees, their backs against the wall. A mem- ber of the royal family divided the place allotted me, from the lowest of these priests. A space was left vacant on the left of the room, below the principal priests, but above the rest of that line. This was afterwards occupied by the Inauk of Huzarusp (bro- ther to the king) and the Bee, 1 cannot give the sound by any other arrangement of letters,) son of the predecessor of Madreheen Khaun, the present Khaun's father. All sat in profound silence; I gave them " the Salaam alikoom " and took my seat, a little disgusted at finding it so low. The head Moolla assured me I was welcome, and asked several questions, some relating to the distance of places; whether Shauh Shoojah had not married a daughter of England, and whether the English were really masters of India, etc. etc. On all which points, I satisfied the curiosity of his holiness. Meanwhile the priests sat, very much like a couple of rows of jackasses in the mood digestive; eyes earth- fastened in deep abstraction, and heads hanging, like gourds, at various angles with the body. None but the Sheikh-ool-lslaum ventured to utter a word, and the few, which I addressed to the sprig of royalty beside me, were answered with screwed up mouth and knitted brows alone. It was evidently not etiquette to converse at so solemn a banquet. My knees and ancles now began to give me the most exquisite torture. None but a creature so stiff-jointed as myself, can imagine how much I suf- fered from this posture, in spite of considerable prac- tice. Once, at an audience of Shauh Kaumraun, when attempting to rise from the torturous posture jjrescribed by etiquette, I fairly fell on my lace, unable to support the weight of my body, upon my almost dislocated ancles. I now sounded the royal sprig, to know wlietlier I could, without indeconini, sliiit my p<;stuie; but iny sole answer was glum looks; IIO DINNKR-ODoXV. :iihl the Slicikli-()i)]-I>l;iiini w:is at so fj^reat a distance, tliat 1 licsitati'd to iiiiikc the uproai', necessary to attract his atti'iitiou. At len^^th llesh .'iiid l)lood p:ot the lietter of shame, and, in a voice of thunder, I roared, "1 am in prcat pain, excuse my shifting my posture." Tile effect was quite electric. All the hanging gourds of heads, all the half-closed nuitton eyes, all tlie pendulous tympana that garnish those hanging excrescences, were suddenly upraised, awakened as from a trance, and fixed upon me in startled horror; whilst, with iiitinite pain and ditliculty, I unbent my knees, and twisted them into the posture by tailors loved. The relief was so great, that I held at nought the general astonishment, which, however, excited me to a mirth I coidd scarcely control. We had sat thus, I think, a full hour, when in marched my rival, the Persian ambassador, a hand- some fellow, evidently of the Gujjur tribe.* He had all the ease of the higher orders of his countrymen ; and he needed all, in an assembly of the most virulent enemies of his religious creed, who, moreover, could scarcely be supposed in the best of humours with one, Avho had kept dinner waiting a mortal hour ; an offence not easily pardoned by churchmen, and equi- valent in most countries to a charge of heresy. He took his seat on the side of the room opposite mine, i. e. the left side, and three grades lower. The Sheikh- ool-Islaum gave him welcome, and after a short pause, inquired, " Whether the three first Khalifs were usurpers !" " By no means," replied the Sheah, with the most perfect indifference of manner, " And what say you of those who deny their title?" All eyes were turned upon him with glances of triumph. He attempted to parry the question, -but it would not do. It was repeated clearly and dis- * To which belongs the present king of Persia. PENALTY. 141 tinctly, and he was obliged to answer; for there is but one safe answer to such a question. " They are Kawfurs." A giggle ran through the assembly, for this is the grossest insult that can be offered a Sheah, and the office of ambassador is no guarantee against such insults. " You are perfectly right," replied the Sheikh, with a sneer: but nothing could shake the ease and self-possession of the Persian. It is impos- sible to sa}^, what might not have been the conse- quence, had he openly denounced, as usurpers, the first Khdlifs; — the entire failure of his mission had been certain, his murder probable. But Sheahs have no scruple in renouncing their faith, when it places them in jcojmrdy. They conceive, that they are under no obligation to answer questions, which the interrogators have no right to ask. We intend some day to write a chapter upon lies, black, white, and grey, and shall therefore at present make no remark. But it is just to mention, that the whole of this con- versation was carried on in Toorkish, which the Persian spoke fluently, so that I could only guess by the Arabic words and names, by the countenances of the guests, and the after report of my people, the nature of the questions and answers. This ambassador liad been sent on a special mission of harmony, with the profession of belief of all Mu- hummedans as the message of his master to the Khaun, and had probably been instructed to make any religious concession, in order to gain his point, of which one item was the release of the 30,000 Persians, said to be slaves in Khaurism, whicli was c(juivalent to asking the Khaun to give liini 900,000 ducats, or about 450,000/. a sum by no means exor- Ijitant, as the |)ri(:(,' of the service; to be ren(•(' entered, and took their seats at iIk; licad of 142 INAL'K OV IH'ZAKi:si'. the left row, below the prhieipal IMoollas. To enter late is an assumption of consequence, which the Per- sian had exercised pretty freely. The Iiiauk could not have made his appearance with propriety until some time after all were assembled. The Inauk is a tall, larue-built man, with high features, and an air of sound sense and intelligence. He stoops in his gait, like all natives of the country, who, when not rolled up in the saddle like sacks, are rolled up like balls upon tlu'ir lunnmuds.* lie is considered to be a man of clear judgment and decisive character, and is, perhaps, the only real soldier in Khaurism. His stature and strength are much vaunted, and i'ew horses, it is said, can carry him. He was dressed in a cloak of dark green, lined with fur, and, like that of the Khaun, secured or ornamented at the waist in front with a chain of gold. On his head was an Ooz- beg cap, of black lambskin. The Bee, who, with ex- ception of the gold chain, was similarly attired, is a fat, heavy -looking man, who appeared to me of rather low stature. His eyes are never lifted from the earth, probably from the sense of being an object of suspi- cion to the Khaun, as son of the first Oozbeg king of Kliaurism. He is, nevertheless, treated by the Khaun with marked distinction. He is said to be amiable. Symptoms of dinner now broke out; several long pieces of chintz were brought in, and spread around the room, op])osite the company : on these were ranged flat cakes of bread; then basins of mutton broth, swimming in fat, and finally some wretched pilaus and cups of mingled butter and grape juice. For the soup, which was served in earthenware basins, clumsy wooden ladles were at hand, but none of those exquisitely carved spoons of wood used in Persia and Afiiliaunistaun. I, who abhor soups and broths of all kinds, played a miserable spoon on this occasion, in spite of all the exhortations and the excellent * A carpet of felt. SUBLBHTIES. 143 example of him at my elbow. But I observed that the priests had entirely lost their supineness now that Avork was in hand. The hanging, pumpkin heads be- came firm set upon their stalks, the half-closed, greasy eyes shot scintillations of consuming fire upon the sacrifice; the jaws, that seemed so languid, 'twas doubtful if they could masticate anything so profane as a jelly, began their preliminary cross-cuts, and flourishes, like the shears of Gattie or of Ross, shears whose keen, vigorous slashes have many a time made us shudder for our ears. Doubtless these holy men practise conviviality, as Queen Zenobia practised matrimony, or Miss Seward* fermentation, to wit, for the result — the sacred medi- tations, the sublime ecstatic visions, the quick coming fancies evolved from tough mutton and its decoction during the process of rumination. Alas ! that fruits so spiritual should be culled from roots so material! That these sainted gentry should be compelled to nourish their gifts upon the self-same material as in- spireth him who howleth at the moon ! Rather let us believe that this son of defilement gathereth and de- riveth whatever of poetry he offereth to the pale star of night from the kindred (be it spoken in all rev^er- ence) which this community of voracity gives him with holy, earth-despising men. The cloth was removed ; the cold water was poured over our greasy fingers. The fatness of the dinner was carefully wrapped in our handkerchiefs, and as carefully deposited in our pockets. We blessed God inr the meal, and stroked our beards, as many, at least, as were so fortunate as to possess any. It must be confessed that the greater number of flourishes cut the impassive air, and might, to a fanciful view, have • The anxiety of this fair amazon to render her sex for ever iiule- jjcndent of the other is a recorded fact, luid hIow feriiicntation was the proceHH. Single-handed, however, she eouiii pHwhue nothing higher in the scale of being than a maggot, and even in tlie ]>ro(hiction of tliis Dr. Darwin haokliara, shut up their goods in the town, and di'clared that tliey must iiglit f(jr them." Part, olthis information was, perhaps, communicated to rne by others; but, as I am unceitain, it will save tiiiKi to ])lacc it on the Khaun's lips with this ex- [)lanation. 'I'he whole, on rcaciiing St. Petersburg, VOL. I. I, 146 RUMOURS. I found to have been a fabrication; no British force having advanced bt'vond l)amiiin. The Kliaun ad(k'(i — " Have you heard that 20,000 English troops are marching upon Tehraun?" 1 had not: — " From whence are they?" " They arrived by sea at Busheer ; the sea is covered witii their vessels. A man has just arrived from those parts, who saw both army and fleet. A\ hat think you of the news?" " That it is utterly unfounded. We could have no possible object in such an invasion, at the present moment." " Nevertheless, it is quite true. We have, as I said, an eye-witness." " lie is deceiving your Majesty. The news is quite incredible." It is scarcely necessary to apprize the reader, that this intelligence, like the former, proved totally desti- tute of foundation. Should the reader never have visited central Asia, he may ask, To what purpose could such fabrications be got up? If he has been resident in that country, he will neither ask, nor attempt to answer, so idle a question ; nine-tenths of the news he has there heard, being of precisely similar character : the most bare-faced and ingenious lies, uttered by those who have apparently no motive for the fabrication, and under circumstances, that admit of no possibility of their being themselves deceived : lies, invented and promulgated from the sheer love of deceiving. I had now some prospect of speedy dismissal, on ray journey. I Avas permitted to consult a few guides, supplied by the Mehtur, and also a very intelligent Hindoo merchant, named Diaram, on the subject of my journey. This man readily promised to supply, upon my l)ills, any sum I might require: and having at heart the release from slavery of two young women of the royal family of Heraut, and to send in honour AN EMPTY PURSE. 147 to that city, a blind prince of the family of Shah Shooja-ool-Moolk, as well as to make a fcAv presents to influential people, to keep up a good feeling toward our Government, I desired him to have in readiness 800 ducats, which he promised to do. He, however, delayed the supply of this money, and eventually declared he could not procure me a farthing. He made a profound mystery of his reasons; but 1 have no doubt that the Mehtur interdicted his good offices, for I complained of the fraudulent conduct of Diaram to him, but he took no notice of it. This put me to the utmost inconvenience; for, depending upon this supply, and anxious to preserve in the breast of the Khaun Huzurut that good feeling which the capriciousness of despots renders obnoxious to the most trifling causes, 1 had, in reply to the Khaun's offer of procuring me all needful supplies, said, that I had come as the friend of the Government, and not to tax it in the hour of danger, when the Khaun would have need of all his funds and resources. In my present extremity, I was obliged to apply to the Mehtur, beofo-ino^ he would obtain me the means of cashing bills on Heraut, for which I would give a handsome premium. He promised to do so, and I thought the matter concluded. The Melitur taxed me with the supposed advance of the English arms to Bulkh. " You said, you did not desire war with Muhummedan powers, and now you are invading Toorkestaun." "In saying so, I added, that tlie Ummeer of Bokhara had given my government the grossest pro- vocation, and that I could not say how nuich longer we miglit forlK-ar." "And IVsia?" " It is, in all probability, a false repoi't, that we have entered that ccnnitry. Were it true, it were jjcrfcctly just and proper." " What, for opening your ambassador's li-tter?" "Yes! for opening oui' aml)assa 148 RELEASE OF FEMALES. British ambassador, at any foreign Court, is the image, at that Court, of the most powerful of earthly sovereigns. An insult to him is an affront to that sovereign, and none ever insulted my Government with impunity." The Mehtur now consulted me upon the nature of the presents proper to be sent to the Emperor of Ivussia, and Her Majesty the Queen of England. For the I'^mperor, I recommended rare sabres and daggers, and the beautiful, jewelled harness of the country. For my Queen, J said, it would scarcely be appropriate to present arms; horses I could not convey with me, :ind the country produced nothing else. But, I.added, that the Khaun Huzurut had it in his power to present to Her ]\Iajesty, the Queen of England, the richest, noblest, and most acceptable of offerings. He asked what that might be. " The freedom," I said, " of some of the daughters of the Afghauns, who are pining in slavery at Khiva. If the Kliaun will send some of these, say twenty, in honour back to their homes, I will answer for it, my Quet^i will esteem it the most precious of gifts, and the highest of compliments." When this was repeated to the Khaun Huzurut, he was much struck, and calling his favourite wife, asked her what she thouo^ht of the taste of Eno;lish ladies, and a British Queen, who delighted not in rich jewels and ornaments, but in acts of mercy to the human race. He gave instant orders to carry the measure into effect. Owing, however, to the avarice of the ]\Iehtur, who was charged with the execution, a great many old women, I was told, were of the number. I remonstrated, saying, that I had specified daugh- ters, and not grandmothers; that some of these poor creatures had outgrown their desire to revisit Heraut. That many of them, probably, had no homos, nor any to look to, for support; and that to send the worst of any article, as a gift to a sovereign, was a species of affnmt. The Mehtur, however, had AN EXPRESS. 149 made his arrangements, and replied, that if my Queen desired others, the Khaun Huzurut "svould at any time release them, at her request. I was invited to inspect them, but from delicacy to Asiatic prejudice, Avould not go. The conversation in the King's haram I received from very good authority, but could not, with safety to the j^arty, explain more. About a week previous to this period, I had, by the most urgent remonstrances, persuaded the Khaun to place a courier at my disposal. This man had re- ceived my letters for Major Todd, Envoy at Heraut, and Sir W. ^I'Xaghten, Envoy and ^Minister at Cabul, and with them a handsome present. But he evinced not the slightest symptom of moving, although the ^Nlehtur had the effrontery to declare, that he was on his journey to Heraut. I remonstrated to no pur- pose; but a curious circumstance, or rather observa- tion, was elicited. I came to Khiva very ill supplied with sealing-wax, and the Russian wax there is quite useless. Some odds and ends of Indian wax, black and dark green, were all left to me ; and with these I had secured my packets. " Why," inquired the Mehtur, " do you use dark wax?" " Because I have got no other." " That is not the reason. It is for fear we should break your seal." " You would not be so mad. See what Persia has suffered Ijy such a breach of the faith and hospitality of nations. But why could you not break a black seal?" " Because there is no l)lack wax at Khiva." " And is there red wax?" " Abundance." It seemed pretty evident, that the idea of breaking the seal had crossed the mind of the Mehtur. The worst of it was, tliat should tliey break the seal, in all probability they would destroy the packet, to })revent • liscovery. Or the iiitcrpn-tcr might ])e an enemy, instructed to give a mischievous inter[)retation to the 150 GOLDiiN DREAMS. contents. I discovered also, that by a truly Asiatic spirit of economy, the messenf^er was destined to convoy to llei'aut, when in due process of tiuie they should be collected, the twenty-two women, whom the Khaun intended to liberate. I appealed to the Kliaun liiniseli"; assured him that the most mischiev- ous consequences might result to his own kingdom from the delay. That my Government, taking it for granted, from my silence, that I had been either murdered or imprisoned, would interest themselves no farther for the safety of His Majesty. He laughed, and said, tliat the courier should be instantly de- spatched; but the man did not really quit Khiva until twenty-one days after his receipt of my packet. I had, however, previously despatched to Heraut packets by two separate messengers. The operation was a delicate one: for, after receiving the packet and gold, the messenger might have taken them to the Kliaun, and iiave received my head in exchange; and the loss of his own would have been the certain consequence of any detection ; but I trusted to the power of gold, and to the firm faith in the word and promise of an Englishman, which prevails throughout these countries. One of these messengers was the old Cauzie of Yoollataun, him whose claw I had anointed with the mammon of uni-ighteousness. It seems, that from that moment I had become the subject of the honest gentleman's prayers and holy reveries. Never distilled the dulcet and emollient oil of palms upon skin more happy from the unction. Being a magistrate as well as priest, he was an excel- lent judge of the weight of a plump Bokhara* Tilla, and conceived that a tree producing such superlative fruit, was worthy to be cherished by all of orthodox [)rinciples. So, after vainly endeavouring, for weeks, to satisfy his craving for my presence by dreams and ♦ The Tilla of Bokhara is one of the purest of gold coins. Its value may be about thirteen shillings. The Tilla of Khiva is very inferior in piirity and value. REALIZED. 151 reveries, he mounted his nag, and rode across the desert, 380 miles, or thereabouts, in quest of me, the scent of the golden fountain refreshing him as he pro- ceeded. On reaching Khiva, he contrived, but in the most cautious manner, to intimate his presence to Summud Khaun ; informing him, that he had come to purchase the freedom of a relative, but wanted five ducats to make up the sum demanded. I imme- diately sent him fifteen, and vdth. them the tiniest little packet in the world, which, I assured him, was an order on Heraut for fifteen more. The ecstasies of the old gentleman are indescribable. Had 1 at that moment thrust out a cloven foot or a little curly pig's tail (much the more horrible of the two to a holy Moolla), I believe he would have knelt down to kiss either devoutly. In the conveyance of dispatches, liberality cannot be too strongly enjoined. The ob- jects of a mission costing thousands, and involving interests more precious far than gold, may be de- feated by grudging a few guineas for the conveyance of intelligence. But in Central Asia especially, letters are generally conveyed at risk of life, and a handsome reward is therefore just, as well as politic. I feel myself here embarrassed by anachronisms, into which I have fallen. It was a day after the re- ceipt of the false news of our capture of Bulkh, and about a week previous to my departure from Khiva, that poor Ummeer Beeg, the Goolaum whose liberty I had long since purchased of the Mehtur, Avas at length released and sent to me. My room was full when he arrived. He threw himself at my feet, and, seizing my hand, covered it with kisses, and bathed it in his tears. I was deeply affected. The full sense of liberty can perhaps be felt oidy by the spirit that has fought and struggled and suffered and pined and done all but crouch to win it. Tiie sense of all his wrongs and torments, his years of bondage, op- pression, and scorn, came over him in that moment of weakness, and those were probably the first tears 152 UMMKEU I>EEG. that since liis boyhood he had known. I raised him up witli the greatest difficulty; I was not ashamed of the moisture in my own eyes, as I said to him, " You have suffered long and deeply for the British Govern- ment; but your sufferings are at an end, and your reward is come. You have been despised, for our sake, by the Toorcumun and ( )ozbeg. You shall now he honoured and cherished by the English. Your sulferings shall be forgotten by you, to be remem- bered by us; that is your place, Ummeer Beeg (point- inir to the hijjhest scat). None here has done and suffered for the (^ueen of England what you have; none, therefore, here is your equal in honour." Nothing, however, could induce him to sit in my presence. He stood before me weei)ing like a child; every word of kindness but called forth fresh tears. ]t seemed that to such a spirit there was no medium between the entire mastery of his own emotions and prostration before them. I perceived, that so long as I spoke words of comlort to him, his sorrows must flow; and conjecturing all it must cost him to be seen in that unnerved condition, led the conversation to his innnediate views and wishes. " What were these? What did he desire?" He would follow me over the world. " It is not to me that you owe anything. 1 am but an agent of my Government. I should be de- lighted to have you with me : but I go on a most perilous and painful mission. The chances of death or captivity are greatly against me. You have suf- fered enough already, and shall not, with my will, suffer more. You sliall return whither you please, to Heraut, or to your home in Persia.'' " I never can return to Persia," he replied, with a gloomy look, pointing to his mutilated ears. " You are ^vrong, Ummeer Beeg, they are your greatest glory : — they are testimonials of your fidelity to the British Government, and of your personal courage and gallantry. I will give you such a cer- UMMEER BEEG'S TALE. 153 tificate as shall make every one envy you the loss, and Major Todd will give you another. He bade rae greet you kindly, and say : ' The Toorcumuns have cut off Ummeer Beeg's ears, but I will re-make them of gold.' Tell me the particulars of your captivity." " I was entrusted by Colonel Stoddart, then at Heraut, with despatches for the British Envoy and Minister at Tehraun. Colonel Stoddart, in giving them me, enjoined me, on no account to offer hope- less resistance to any very superior number of Toor- cumuns, or other plunderers, * For,' said the Sahib, ' should you become a slave, 1 may be able to redeem you; but death would place you beyond human aid, and would not save your despatches, nor in any way benefit your masters.' The road at that time was much infested, yet I had just conveyed by it, to Heraut,* a considerable sum of gold for Colonel Stoddart. AVhen I approached Toorbut Sheik Jaumie (I think this was the place), I perceived hoof-prints on the road, and climbed a slight hill to look around me, lest I should be surprised. I could see nothing, so proceeded. A little farther on, as I approached some thickets, I found myself confronted by about forty Toorcumuns. I brought my carabine down to the ready, and cocked it. They drew back, and we parleyed. " ' Who are you ? ' they inquired. " A servant of the English ambassador. " ' You are a Gujjur,' i. e. Persian. " No ! I am in the service of the English, the allies and friends of Heraut. " ' Lay down your arms.' " I won't. i will shoot the first man that ap- proaches nearer. " ' What good will that do you i You'll be a dead iiuui the next instant.' • TluH I know to have Ik-lu tlie cane, having hoard it from tlio .Socrctttry of Legation, Major Tole tor your safety to your journey's end." Upon this subject there could not be two opinions. Moreover, several of tiiose Kuzzauk tribes were in open rebellion against Khiva ; all were expecting daily a change of masters, and, of course, the Khaun Huzurut's authoi-ify, in such a country, nmst be held extremely cheap, and might be of little avail, even should the first guide accomj)any njc throughout. This, however, was a i-i>k j)revi<)usly foreseen, and which T was willin''' to incur. 'I'lie otlier was not to 170 A PREMIER. thoupflit of; it \v;i.'^ dentli, witliout ii reasonable cliance of success. When, therefore, 1 saw tlie jMehtur, I frankly told him what tlie guide had said, and that I could not, of my free choice, be bandied from guide to guide, and from tribe to tribe. He strove hard to shake my purpose, but in vain. He had volunteered to pay me a visit before my departure, and arrived, one morning, at an early hour, when my only room was being swept, and 1 was walk- ing in the space called a garden. My servants were out of the way, and the servants of the house neg- lected to summon me, so that when, by accident, I passed into the court, I found him sitting there, on his haunches, against the wall, without even a carpet or a numnnid, and looking much more like a large watch-dog, than the Prime Minister of the Father of the Conqueror of Heroes. It was, although most un- intentionally, an acquittance in full of all his incivility to myself; yet my worst enemy v/ould never have been thus treated, under my own roof; and 1 am sure 1 never condescended to admit him to such a distinc- tion. I hastened to him, and made a thousand apolo- gies, and endeavoured, by the most assiduous attention, to make amends for the apparent slight. 1 suppose he received my apologies at the usual valuation of such ware, lie, however, affected to be satisfied; and sundry huge loaves of sugar, some fruit, bread, laisins, and tea, being set before him, our conference connnenced by his trjing to force me to ask the favour of an Oozbcg ambassador, as my companion, and permission to travel the direct route to Orcnburgh. 1'he reasons he urged were frivolous, and easily refuted. They were not, I knew, genuine. My private intelligence, moreover, assured me, that the Khaun Iluznrut had been recommended to send me with a coniidential person of his own, by the route proposed, in order that this person, on approaching the camp, might precede me, and ascertain from the Russians, what degree of influence my jourjioy might ]U'oducc DISCUSSIONS. 171 upon the affairs of Khiva. If they found the liussians sufficient!}' simple to allow of its ini[)ortance, I was to be permitted to pass on. If they should disallow it, I was to be brought back, by force, if necessary; and if the Russians should be so wise as to proclaim mc a spy, I know not how I was to be provided for; but there could be no difficulty in disposing of me quietly. This determined me, more strongly than ever, against both propositions. It appeared to me, that since the receipt of my despatches, I had lost, at Court, some of the Khaun's confidence. ] was not aware, until some days after, that this was owing to the testimony of several fresh witnesses, who had identified me, on oath, as a Russian. The Mehtur had come quite determined to carry his point. Of course, quite ignorant of the English character, he warmed as he proceeded, until he began to lose sight of the respect due to me, and obliged me to assume the tone which, from past ex- perience, I knew would overawe liim. He complained of the warmth he had provoked, and was evidently nervous under it. I replied, that I could be temperate in tone and language, when treated as a British agent was entitled to be treated. But that, when respect for my office was forgotten, he had no rig] it to sup- pose 1 should burthen myself with the remembrance of what was due to his. That 1 never was the first to depart from the calm, dispassionate tone, proper to all political discussions; but, on the contrary, I per- ceived tliat my extreme politeness and mildness were occasionally mistaken for want of spirit, and that attempts were tlicn made to pass afi'roiits upon mc. J was obliged to shew that I perceived these, and that tliey were resented, as slights offered to my Govern- ment. I begged (Mice mont to recommend precautions in- disj>ensable to the safety of the kingdom, and without which mv missiou must be uMavailing. "Oh!" Ii.,' replied, "(lod will never gi\e u^. into 172 UAILKOAI) TO I'AKADISE. the hands of Kawiurs; yet, if our destiny be thus written, no elloi't ot Ours can :dtei* or })revent it." '• lielieviuLi" all this, I wonder you take the trouble to eat and di-iuk. Your destiny hein^- predetermined, you would not die an hour the sooner, should you starve, nor be a whit the worse than is written." " Yes: but it is my destiny to eat." " Then pray let it bo your destiny to defend tlie point of a})proach, which I have pointed out, or, the next pa-!i\ in ni\' j)i'e>ence. 170 UOUTK PROPOSED. '' I will oiv,. you no order," sJiitl tlic Khaun, "but T recoiumciul the Orcnbur^^li route. You will, in at- tenipting the other, be lon^ impeded by the iee." lie ran over tiie reasons already detailed, but they had ])een often answi'red ; and I replied that, if his Majesty connnanded, I would try the other road; but, after nuuiy inijuiries, was assured that my mission, even shouKl I reach the l\ussian camp, must be futile by that route; wdiereas, could 1 but reach any consider- al)U' Russian town, my Government would get intelli- gence of me, and 1 could no longer be put off by excuses and delays. " I see," said the Khaun Iluzurut, " that you do not believe my word." " It is impossible for me to utter a falsehood, even in compliment; and if asked which route I consider best for your Majesty's interests, T must repeat, as before, the route wdiich avoids Orenburgh," " Why not then by Dahsh GuUah, Nuovo Alexan- drofski.^" " 1 will try that, if your ^lajesty pleases. But it is a small fort; the commander cannot be a man of consequence. His Government may diso\vn any act of his toward me; whereas the governor of any con- siderable toAvn or district would fear to embroil his country by incivility to a l^ritish officer. Say but the word, and I wdll march direct thither." I had brought matters to a crisis, which astonished all present. The Khaun IIu/Airut, for the first time in his life, had been resisted in a favourite project. When he accused me of distrusting his word, I had no answ^er. It was a position from Avhich his own dig- nity should have saved me, the most embarassing in the world. I could not tell a black lie, and had no practice in making white lies. The Khaun Iluzurut sent for the guide, Hussun Mhatoor, chief of the Chowdhoor Toorcumuns, a tribe of 12,000 families, or about 60,000 souls, scattered over the tract between Khiva and Mungh Kishlauk, HUSSUN MIIATOOR. 177 and all potent in the latter district. He entered ; a tall, hale, handsome old man, who in his youth must have been very robust, and who, even now, betrayed no symptom of the enfeebling influence of years. His profile was noble, and a perfect model of manly beauty; his head, and long ample beard, were a study ; but his deep-set eye was the very charnel light of avarice and treachery. The Khaun desired me to question him as I pleased. His answers fully corro- borated my own opinion. " There was no snow on this route ; the Caspian in a very few days would be free from ice. There were always plenty of Russian and Nogay boats at Mungh Kishlauk, of all sorts and sizes, waiting off shore for the Bokhara caravans. The present hostilities would in no wise banish them from the port, because there was an island not far ofl^, where they could lie in perfect security until called to the port by signals from the caravans ; that they car- ried cannon, and had therefore nothing to apprehend from the Toorcumuns by daylight : that he himself would give me the use of a boat, to visit, if necessary, the island or the Russian vessels lying off shore ; that it was one or at most three days' sail from thence to Astrakhan ; that at Mungh Kishlauk were no houses, but an abundance of Kuzzauk and Toorcumun tents, where I could procure everj^thing." This was for me a triumphant contradiction of all the arguments by which I had been assailed; but in fact it was no evidence; for my liberality to Birdler Beeg, my first guide, having got abroad, every guide was ready to swear his own route the best and most practicable, in the hope of some similar good for- tune. The Khaun liuzurut then addressed Hussun Mhatoor. " Vou will conduct Abbott Sahib in safety and comfort U) Mungjj Jvishlauk, You will procure him the means of embarking for Astrakhan." Hussun n'j)]i<-<| tliat he had Iteen so active an enemy VOL. I. N 17S PARTING CHARGE of the Ivussiaiis, tluit luMlarcd not himself ii])proach any of their vessels, but that he had a boat at my ser- vice, and would put me in the way of speakin^^ to the captains of vessels; that in this I need not Ji[)prehend the slightest dilHculty. " And if," said the Kliaun to me, " you should not find a passage at Mungh Kishlauk?" " In that case I nmst go on to Dahsli Gullah." "Do so; and should you reach St. Petersburg, }oii will let the Queen of England know that I have not sent her Majesty any rare ])resents of arms or jewels, because you have represented that her Majesty is better pleased with the release from slavery of the daun^hters of the Affrhauns." " I will do so." At the same time I thought that it would have puzzled his ^Majesty to produce from the royal treasury anything that could be decently offered to a British queen. Emeralds and rubies of every ugly shape, uncut, and not worth the cutting, full of flaws, and set in the most paltry fashion, these may be said to form almost the only ornaments of the wealthy, bearing in these countries an inordinate value, but utterly worthless in the estimation of a London jeweller. A few rare exceptions are known amongst the royal treasures, but these are preserved with most jealous care, and nothing worth keeping is ever bestowed as a gift. " You are sure," said the Khaun Huzurut, " that the Russians will neither murder nor imprison you?" "Quite sure!" " But they imprisoned my ambassador's brother." " That was at a time, when your ^Majesty's do- minions were far removed from the sight of Europe. The eyes of the whole world are now turned upon them, and npon my movements, watching both with intense interest," "Wherefore?" " Px'CJiuse your Majesty's dominions forming the OF THE KIIAUN. 179 barrier between two of the mightiest powers of the eartli, and being invaded by one of those powers attract the gaze of all mankind. Should the other, power awaken to a sense of her danger and true in- terests, the consequence may be, the convulsion of the world." This sentence, I do not repeat in the explicit terms requisite to its comprehension by the monarch, to -whom it was addressed. He replied with a smile, " It's very hard that they cannot hnd, in all the world, some other battle-field than just my dominions." He again cautioned me to bear in mind his instruc- tions respecting an exchange of captives; repeating and making me repeat his words. Of his sincerity, there could be no doubt. l)Ut as it was inspired by fear, I confess I was not very certain it would endure, after the failui-c of the Russian expedition, wliich, in tlie e}'es of a nation so barbarous, would be magnified into a triumph. And I am still of opinion, that had any officer of less genius, prudence, and engaging marniers than Captain Sliakespear been sent after me to Khiva, the negotiation might have had a different result, from tli(; brilliant conclusion to which his prompt and judicious mediation brouglit it. TheKliaun Huzurut nowdismissed me, commending me to God. I assui'ed him, and it was from my heart, that I would maintain liis interests to the utmost of my abilities and my life. I had received from him more favour than he had perhaps ever bestowed u])on another. I lovixl and respected his character; and even had not his interests been inseparable from those of niy country, would have risked much in his service. His after-conduct anniliilatcd every obligation I might have acknowledged to him, and brought me on the creditor's side; but I atti'il)ute to circumstances all that was to my disadvantage, and am willing. I'iither, to dwell up'in the uiidoiiblid \iitMc. of the sovereign a?id the man. N -1 180 PECUNIARY EMBARASSMENTS. The reiua'miiiu- days wore spent in the most painful negotiations for procuring luiuls for my journey. I must not weary the reader with more of these, than are requisite to exhibit the manners of the Court, and to sliadow faintly one of my numerous diflieulties. I'pon tlie strength of the Minister's repeated pro- mises, I had not mentioned my pecuniary embarrass- ments to tlie Klmun ITuzurut; for, as the custom of the country enjoined the Khaun to frank all my ex- penses through his dominions, and the Persian am- bassador had actually received a large sum for this l)urpose; to have hinted at my necessity, would have been to ask the gift of so much gold ; and 1 could not ask the king of Khaurism to be my banker. Since my last audience, the Mehtur had discovered that I should have applied personally to the Khaun Huzurut; and at the last day, after a variety of delays, he told me that he really dared not mention the sul)ject to the Khaun, lest His Majesty should accuse him of having been bribed by me. This was pleasant : I Avas obliged, therefore, to write to the Khaun Huzu- rut, stating my extreme distress for money, without which I could not possibl}^ proceed; that 1 had been cajoled with promises by the bankers at Khiva, and that his ^linister, until the present moment, had pro- mised to provide for me. That I begged His Majesty would order the bankers to honour my drafts, or allow me to cash them at the royal treasury. I sent this through the Minister; but getting no answer, and believing tliat he might have withlield it, I despatched liirdler Beeg to speak to the Khaun upon the sul)ject. He came back in great confusion, saying, that the Khaun had given way to a burst of anger, on hearing that 1 wanted cash, and asked why I did not demand it at my last audience; that he would then have given me whatever I desired, but now would not hear of it. INHOSPITALITY. 181 I wrote another letter, stating the reasons that had made nie reluctant to burthen the royal treasury, at this critical moment ; the impossibihty of a British representative's begging gifts, even of a king ; that I asked no favour, but that which was requisite for the accomplishment of my mission, viz. that His Majesty would remove, by his furraaun, the fears of the bankers, and give them permission to serve them- selves and me, by cashing my bills. That 1 was His Majesty's guest, proceeding on his business, burthened with the salvation of his empire, and staking my life and fame in his service. That to enter the wilderness with a journey of 2,500 miles before me, unprovided with funds, was certain destruction. That I had not mentioned this subject at my final audience, because his Minister had promised me the cash. That his Minister was well aware I could not proceed without it, etc., etc., etc. This was conveyed by Hussun Mhatoor, to whom I explained, that should I start without cash, I should be unable to reward faithful service. No answer was returned. I was indignant at such unworthy and inhospitable conduct, which, if known, would shame the author in the eyes of even the savage nations of the world. To move without cash was madness, yet I had engaged myself to the Khaun to start on a cer- tain day ; tliat day was come, and the faith of my nation might suffer by delay. My people were in great consternation. All kinds of rumours were afloat. They entreated me to move; tiiose who had saved gold, brought it to me, and pressed it upon me; but I would not hear of depriving any of that Avhich must so(m become as the breath of life to them. I consulted Hussun, the guide. Could 1 raise nuniey, as my servants had been told 1 might, at old Oorgunj, or at Mung Kislilauk ? "Oil! yes," he replied, "there should be no difliculty." I did not believe; hiin, yet tiiere was a laiiit chance, that he might 182 CARES - AURAN3ERIENTS. be speakiiif^ the truth, aii«l it was my only cliance of accomi)lishiiin; my mission; for Summud Khaun (•omiii- exceeded my time by a few hours, and had become more suspicious than ever of me; and that they feared he might, in his blind auLTcr, yield to the advice of those who were ui-ging liim to destroy me and my suite. To have remained longer Avould have either produced this effect, or one that I dreaded even more, the renuncia- tion of my services, at a crisis of such moment to my country. In answer, therefore, to a message from the Khaun, inquiring whether I intended to start, I replied tliat 1 would proceed instantly^ since 1 had promised it : but that, unless I could raise cash, by tlie sale of my horses and appointments on the road, I should perish in the wildei-ness, his guest. I left Khiva, therefore, under the most melancholy of auspices, I had just suflicicnt money to carry me to the shores of the Caspian, and there, Avith the sea on one side, and the desert on the other, unless I could, in the wilderness, find purchasers for my horses, arms, and garments, I must assuredly perish. Even should 1 escape destruction, my mission was in itself a sufficient load of anxiety and trouble. Success, which seemed improbable, might save me, but failure would be disgrace and ruin. I have omitted a very material part of my final audience. The Khaun Huzurut insisted that on quit- ting his territories and entering Iiussia, I should write him a letter to that effect, and, upon the back of it, an English letter to the Envoy at Ileraut, of similar purport. This obliged me to take my old Meerza, for 1 cannot write a decent Persian epistle; and, as he was helpless, 1 was obliged to take an attendant for his horse, etc., so that I thought it just as well to take my entire suite of seven people. Now that my pros- CARES ARRANGEMENTS. 183 pects were so melancholy, I wished to seinl some of them back to Heraut ; but fear had taken possession of them, and it could not be arranged; they dared not be separated from me. The Khaun had also, at my request, promised to send after me any messenger who might arrive within eight days. Poor L'mmeer Beeg, the released slave, came to bid me farewell. He wept again, as he kissed my hand, but this time it was for me, for the forlorn and hope- less circumstances under which I started on so wild a journey. I had intended to equip and provide him handsomely for his journey, that all might see how he is honoured and rewarded who faithfully serves my Government; but my funds were quite exhausted by what I had already given him. I bade him explain my melancholy prospects to the blind prince of H. M. Shah Shoojah's family, whom I had intended to send in honour to Heraut, and also to the unhappy female slaves of the royal family of Heraut, whom I found myself unable to enfranchise. I had begged they might be included in the number whose liberty was granted at my intercession, but my purpose was de- feated, either by th(3 ]\Ielitur, or by some feeling of shame on the part of the Khaun, to return to Heraut princesses who had been exposed to such usage in his dominions; and now, for want of funds, I was obliged to leave them in captivity. A large crowd liad collected at my gate, to stare at me. I mounted my horse, and seeing Unnneer Beeg standing near, stretched out my hand to him, which however he would only raise to his lips and forehead, and then said aloud, and made my interpreter repeat it in Toorkish after me, " Tliis is an honoured ser- vant of the British Government. God preserve you, Ummeer Beejr, j^ood and Lfallaiit and faithful fol- lower!" It was all I could now do to lionoui- liini in the eyes of those by whom he had l^ceii o|»[)rrssed :uid 1H4 DKl'AR'rrUK khom kiiiva. despised.* Kveii in tluit desoliite hour, my inability to reward the suft'erintjs and faithful services of this gallant follower was felt as an additional woe. • III all that I have written of Uiiimeer Beeg, tlie reader is begged to observe that I have written according to my knowledge of him. 1 am fiu" from supposing that a man ao educated should have been free from the almost universal faults of Asiatics. I vouch only for his high spirit, his courage, and his fidelity under trust, virtues found occasionally even amongst outlaws. My attention to him was so blended with symi)athy for his .sufferings endured in the cause of our Goveriunent, that it would have given me great pain to have detected in him any serious blemish ; but my acquaintance with him wa.s ver^' slight, and I derived my high opinion of his fidelity and courage from Major Todd, whom he had served in Persia. 185 CHAPTER XY. Departure from Khiva — Palace of the Toorruh — Priggery of the Toor- cumuus — Umbarr, aii aucient Site — Report of gigantic human Bones — Dahsh Howz — House of the Guide — His Obstinacy — Message fi'om the Mehtur — The great Mare's Nest — Its Origin — J ourney resumed — Inhospitahty of the Guide — Cai)ture of a Russian Interpreter — My Objection to see him — Journey resumed — Reception at the Den of Thieves. OUR road traversed the richly cultivated and well- wooded valley of the Oxus, amongst the houses of the nobles and gentry of Khiva. The scene is not unpleasing ; but the level character of the prospect de- prives it of all pretensions to beauty, and, in ray pre- sent mood of mind, nothing could be more melancholy. The prevalent trees are the poplar, plane, and elm, the latter a fine shadowy mass of tangled boughs and the densest foliage. All the trees at this season were leafless, and there was not a blade of grass, nor a wild flower upon any of the banks, a deficiency for which nothing can atone. Occasionally as we proceeded, the sandy desert, here utterly divested of its sprinkled shrub and herb, jutted into the tract of hard and fer- tile clay. \'illages and small towns appeared at no l(jng intervals; and on the road we occasionally met laden camels, one-horse carts, with their enormous wheels, each freighted with some fair Oozbeg, and driven by a male slave; and Toorcumun horsemen. Amongst the latter IIussuii, tlie guide, had many ac- (juaintance, on meeting whom he j)ull((l u}) his lioi'se, tlirowing his right ai'm, wliip and all, across that por- tion (jf the body wliich mortals call the l)elly, Init 18G ORDNANCE OF l';»srriON. wliicli, the sentiment onginatin«j; the gesture, desig- nates tlie seat of till' afl'ections, as iindouhteiUy it often is. These were pietiirrscjue groups, though soinewliat monotonous. Hussun liimsclf, well mounted on a white Tooreunuui hoi'sc, his body bowed, and his ht-ad deep sunk upon his shoulders, was, nevertlieless, the pre-eminent figure; his stature, iiis noble features, and flowing beard of siiow were not to be matched amongst Tooreumuns. Hussun Mhatoor, in addition to his office of guide, had charge of wliat was called a train of artillery, being in fact two bundles of fire-arms carried upon a camel; some of these were wall pieces, and the remain- der matchlock rifles; they were destined for the de- fence of an important military post, were regarded with great complacency by him, and with much rever- ence by all the country. At night we reached the residence of a Torruh, or prince of the blood royal. I was ushered into a guest- chamber, something worse than that I had occupied at Khiva, where dinner was provided, and I passed the night. This palace I found precisely similar to other buildings bearing the title in Toorkestaun, i. e. externally rather imposing for an Asiatic dwelling, internally a very indifferent kennel. I had warned Hussun (whose title of Mhatoor, or the Hero, acquired by his prowess over the Russians, I shall generally drop) that I purposed starting at about two o'clock next morning, and that he must be ready at that hour. When, however, I rose, he was not forthcoming, and, on being summoned, sent to ex- cuse himself. This was the first specimen of his inso- lence, but not the last. I started without him, and, of course, soon lost the road, which I recovered only by means of a Toorcumun, who was persuaded to ac- company me. The country was precisely similar to that of the preceding day, excepting that the houses were generally smaller, and canals and sluices in abundance intersect the plain. giant's cemetery. 187 Summud Khauii, the steward, who had fallen into the rear, overtook me about midway, complaining that one of Hussun's relations, a Toorcumun, had stolen two of the cloaks of my suite. That he had discovered the fact, taxed him with it, and, upon his denial, had opened his bundle, and drawn out the missing articles in presence of many witnesses. This was an ominous commencement. The man was known, afterwards, by the name of Doozd, or the thief. In passmg over the abandoned site of the town Unbarr, walled around, as if to be re-occupied, I in- quired of my interpreter, Ali Muhummud, the history, lie said, it was supposed to have been the capital of Khaurism, under the Culmauks, whom we call Cul- mucks. That these were slain in an invasion by llussia. That the late Khaun purposed rebuilding this city, and had walled it accordingly; but that, in digging, some monstrous human bones were found, which proved it to have been a cemetery of giants. That the Khaun had, on this account, prohibited any ])rofanation of the spot, by the erection of fresh buildings. That the Toorcunuins, nevertlieless, re- sorted thitlier, to carry off the soil, which formed an excellent manure. That many of these gigantic bones, were turned up. That he had seen many. That they were decidedly human : he could not be mis- taken, because he had seen the sculls and the teeth. That the former were of sucli size, as barely to admit of being emljraced by his arms. That after a few days' exposure in the air, they fell to powder. The last circumstance is the only one that gives an air of probability to the assertion, tliat these l)ones are human. Had they been fossil, they might liavc been confidently pronounced to belong to the l)rute creation; but it is dillicnh to imagine the preservation, in an osseous ibrm, of animal remains from the remote period* when the Oxus could have ])ecn tlie resort of * I have, however, Hiiici- fournl liiryc (jiiaiititieN of the hone of the 188 uussuN mhatook's house. any of the larger varieties of inaimnalia; and, as few would hv disposed to adopt Ali Mulunnniud's theory of a sepulclire uf giants, his aecount is in some respect wanting in fidelity. The matter, however, seems worthy of investigation, and I much regretted that I couhl not stop for the purpose: but my mission was of far too great importance to be entangled with any of tliose suspicions, to which sucli investigations give rise in tliis barbarous land. I therefore recommend the subject to any who may succeed me. At noon, we passed through Dahsh IIowz (the stone cistern) a town, near which is a royal garden, and a mud fort of some size, of rectangular form, with cur- tains and round bastions, in a double row of defence. It is new, yet has already suffered from the weather. About three miles further, we reached the abode of llussun Mhatoor, an ordinary farm house, standing unsheltered in the cultivated plain. Here tliere was nuich show of hospitality. A guest chamber was allotted me near the entrance, and my people were acconnnodated in another. liussun soon informed me, that it would be necessary to halt here three days. I was now completely in this man's power, being cut off from all communication with Khiva. I p,rgued, insisted, commanded, explained the extreme importance of my mission, the inevitable ruin to his country should it fail, as it must, if delayed, and the consequent ruin to himself, from the anger of the Khaun riuzurut; but my words were all thrown away upon this man, whose temper is as obdurate as his heart. He heard me with the greatest composure, and then quietly repeated his determination to remain. It is not easy to give the reader even a faint idea of my perplexity, and almost frenzy, at this senseless inter- ruption of a journey fraught with such extreme im- portance to my country, and the land I would fain serve. T could argue and threaten, but could not eluphant, in an osseous form, in the soil iinmccliatel} north of the village of Kussool, on the left bank of the Jelum. HIS OBSTINACY. 189 bribe ; and the last was the only argument that could have had a chance of success. Hussun was aware of the state of my purse, and how little he liad to expect from my liberality ; and as to a note for cash upon Heraut, the idea Avas incomprehensible to this son of the wilderness, to whose speculations had never oc- curred the idea, that a shred of paper could be exchanged for gold, or that anything but fear could prevent the breach of a promise involving loss. My funds, indeed, were so low, that I could not even venture to promise him part of my property, horses, arms, or accoutrements ; as they must soon ibrm my sole means of purchasing my onward way. Again, and again, I sent for Hussun, to expostulate with him, and at length solemnly assured him, that unless he obeyed the Khaun's orders, to conduct me with all speed to Mungh Kishlauk, I should quit his house, and return to Khiva, for another guide. This step I was extremely reluctant to adopt, because the news of my return would certainly reach the Khaun, through one of Hussun's emissaries, who would attri- bute it to my perverseness, and probably, in the present state of the Khaun's mind, induce some rash act, which would interrupt all harmony between the Governments; when, therefore, Hussun reduced his demand to a single day, I felt it prudent to consent, rather than resort to the alternative. 10th March, 184(). The arrival of a messenger from the Minister of Khiva was announced by my people, with many smiles. He produced a letter, and lOU ducats in silver; 1 had applied for 800. Tlie letter stated, that these were all that could be collected in the capital of Khaurism, and tliat, being the pro- perty of a banker, interest was required by the owner ibr his risk. The excessive meaimess of this tnuis- action was a .severe reflection npon me, for luiving treated tliis Court, as if either Knig or Minister couhl e()ni[)nh<,'nd, far less apj)reciate, liberality and dis- iiitvrestediiess. In justice to myself", and the c;uis(; in 190 MEANNKSS OV A GOVKRNMENT. which I WHS embarked, I sliould have wrung- out of it every possibh' a(.lvanta;2:e, ami have risked the least possible in return. I sat ulkh, for the pur])ose, many believed, of concerting with Russia, the extermination of Islaum; and, as the nature of my mission, and the explication of our policy, were strictly confined to the precincts of the Court, it was scarcely possible that the people of Khiva should form any other judgment of my destination than that which alarmed my followers. As for the man who had heard the minister say this, or that, he was pro- bably a tool of Yar Muhummud Khaun, who had agents at Khiva, and was bent upon defeating, by every possible means, an alliance which would close against him this door of retreat, should his perfidy at length exhaust the patience of tlie Rritish Govern- ment. To this arch-fiend 1 have little hesitation in attributing also the host of tidings tending to alarm the Khaun Pluzurut, which at this moment poured in like a fiood upon us; the messenger that had seen the Persian Gulf covered with our fleets ; the other, who liad seen our armies at Bulkh ; and the third, who had been in the Rozeh Bagh (garden of fast), at Heraut, when a British force was encamped there. All these men were Afi2:hauns. The endeavour to prevail upon Ali Muhummud to desert me, at this critical moment, was a master-piece of strategy, be- cause, without him (the only one of the party who could speak Toorkish), my ruin was inevitable. That the Vuzeer kept up a constant intercourse with the minister of Khiva, I was aware; and, although I had trumped his best card, in dismissing his agent, Peer Muhummud Khaun, I knew the man well enough to be certain that his design would not be abandoned, OF THE RUMOUR. 195 whilst his personal enmity to myself would be in- flamed. On the other hand, my secret intelligence seemed quite worthy of dependence. It could not be a for- gery of tlie Court of Khiva, because its tendency was to defeat the wishes of that Court. It could scarcely be attributed to Yar Muhummud Ivhaun, because the agent was the least likely person in the world to be applied to by me, or any one else, for information, and had not off*ered it voluntarily, but yielded it to the powder of gold. Moreover, this intelligence tallied perfectly with my observation of the Court intrigues, and rendered the whole system intelligible; whereas the report just mentioned was at variance with a variety of important particulars, and tended only to confuse. None of my servants, excepting Ali and the old Meerza (who had the heart of a hare, nursed in a tea-field), tlioroughly gave way to these base sus- picions of the Khaun Huzurut. Ali Muhummud, unfortunately, owing to his long residence at Khiva, was a formidable authority against them; and being himself fully impressed with the sense of a peril which had paid him the compliment of addressing itself first to him, contrived, every now and then, to win the others to his views, and ended by himself abandoning tiiem in toto. I was aware that the Kliaun's suspicions of me had lately gained great strength, and now perceived the cause. I knew, also, that the minister would do me as much mischief as he dared. I think it possible, that these reports may have encouraged the treachery afterwards practised, and that the perpetrators may have Ijcen assured of the minister's good oflices to screen them from the consequences. But, be this as it may, no one will wonder, that the good people of Khiva, liaving at my departure the ])ersiiasion referred to, and seeing their anticipations fulfdled to the letter, should still atti-ibute tiie villany to him from whom (» 2 19G MARCH KESUMED. they IkkI cxiH'ctcd it. The reader, alter what has been detailed ol" the ineaniiess and inhospitality ol" my treatment, will searcely sus[)ect me of any undue bias in favour of the Khaun. 11th Mareh. — Resumed the journey throu_<2;h deep snow, and a mist, hurried by the east wind baek to its source, the Caspian; the vapour, in the process of connelation, had given out sutlieient heat to temper the otherwise cutting wdnd. The road was well occu- pied by horsemen, amongst whom llussun had many acquaintance. Tw^o summits of inconsiderable height, rising from the right bank of the Oxus, were in view, but we did not approach within sight of that river. These hills are said to have yielded gold in former days. At about two o'clock, we halted at a Toor- cumun village, where a tent was pitched for my reception. Here llussun again demanded three days' halt to procure camels, all of which might, under proper arrangements, have been waiting in readiness for me. My remonstrances were renewx'd, but with less effect than ever, for we had receded from Khiva, where alone could be found any counterpoise to the for- midable })ower of this chief. lie, moreover, insisted upon my laying in fifty days' supply of provisions for man and beast, and positively refused to stir with less, although there remained before us but fourteen days' journey. For this supply ten camels were re- quisite, which were to be hired of his relations. Exhausted as were my funds, I did not readily sub- mit to this fresh imposition. The point was debated with nmcli warmth through my interpreter. My principal oljjection to it was the plea it would furnish him for loitering on the road. Nothing, however, could move llussun from his purpose. Accustomed from youth to an authority almost kingly, he seemed utterly ignorant of the art of obedience, and to ex- pect that everything should yield to his simple fiat. Unfortunately, he had power to compel obedience, UUSSUN MHATOOR. 197 for to have parted with him had been inevitable destruction, and I was now too far advanced to re- cede. In the evening, my people came to say, that he refused to eat with them, and that they thought he might have taken offence at the warmth of my manner, wlien pointing out to him the consequences of his present conduct to himself and his Government. This was to be avoided on many accounts; and as he was an old man, and the head of his tribe, I did not scruple to enter the tent, and assure him, that if I had hurt his feelings by my earnestness, I much re- gretted it. That upon my movements depended the fate of Khaurism, and that 1 was acting, not for my- self, but for his king. That I was his guest, and owed respect to his age, as well as to my relative position. He begged to assure me, that he had taken no offence, and that his present abstinence proceeded from his having just dined heartily at the funeral of a friend; and as I knew Avhat one of Ilussun's hearty meals amounted to, it was impossible for me to hope he should engulph any more aliment. He, however, ate several handsful of rice in proof of his good humour. 12th ]\Iarch. — I complete this day my 33rd year, and this day will long be remembered as one of the most miserable of my life. Here, after all my labours, my difficulties, and troubles, when nearly all that seemed arduous had been conquered, and hope had sprung from tlie ashes of des[)air; when my foot was forward, and my arm out-stretclied to grasp the object of so many cares, I found myself fettered, cramped, and all but strangled under the burthen of this "old man of the sea." Loiti-ring, to suit the ease of a subject of Khaurism, wliilst speed alone could save that kingdut my feeling can be appreciated only by those, who have been, like my- Sflf, seventeen years in a land, from which the com- 208 USE OF AN UNKNOWN TONGUE. panioiisliii) of woman is bnnislied I j^Liycd with the chiklrcn, mid took lessons in Toorkish from the dame; I soon Ibund, however, tliat avarice, tiie universal demon of Asia, lias dominion even in the female breast. Kvery time I caressed or noticed the children, the good dame enjoined me to make them a present, cither of money or dress. I took care to answer all her demands in the unknown tongue, and we had much laughter, at our cross purposes. An unwel- come intruder now entered, my old ]\reerza. He came to say that my tent was ready. I had made up my mind to pass the night here, after the Toorcumun fashion, and objected to so many of my servants in- truding upon the family, who had evidently no design of vacatinir this tent. It was far better, 1 thought, that they should occupy mine. But the old wretch had set his heart upon enjoying the blazing fire, and had a thousand arguments at hand. ^ly tent was ready. All my goods and chattels had been arranged in it. Hussun Alhatoor had made the arrangement; and, in short, had I persisted, I might have been sus- pected of some ungenerous and inhospitable motive, so I yielded with a good grace. I had, however, the satisfaction to see the old Meerza served according to his deserts; for, no sooner had I left the tent, than the owner bundled him out without ceremony, and he passed the night under the freezing heavens. I was vexed at his officiousness, by which I lost a rare opportunity of studying the manners of Toorcumuns. But the fact is, that curiosity of this kind is so utterly incomprehensible to an Asiatic, that great caution is necessary in its indulgence. Early next morning, I spied my two little play- fellows half venturing towards my tent, then running back, laughing to their own, where their elder sister, the little maiden of twelve years, was encouraging them to persist, with many a nod and smile. She wore a close cloak or dress of chintz, of gay and fan- tastic, but becoming colours. On her head was a TOORCU-MUX CHILDREN. 209 close cap of red cloth, fringed with black lambskin. Eight plaited tresses of brown, silky hair, fell from beneath this. Her face was too full for beauty : but she had a rich colour, sparkling black eyes, and pearly teeth. The two little things now peeped shyly into my tent ; I caught them, and after inflicting sundry kisses, which they endured with all bashfulness, sent them back, each with a silver coin in her tiny hand. The elder sister was delighted, she ran in and brought the infant, whom she sat astraddle of the blonde's back, and sent in this cavalier fashion, to my tent. I now took my position outside, but still perceived the little maiden peeping at me, from her tent door. The blonde, after much coaxing, took her seat at my side, and I was content. The cap, this little puss wore, was similar to those so often described, a close shell of red cloth, trimmed with black lamb's wool, worked with black silk braid, and tricked with small silver bells. From the borders of the cap, long tassels of black silk fell down on either side, min2;linir with her plaited tresses of light brown hair. This head- dress is so becoming to children, that one is often disappointed on nearer approach to features, that, at a little distance, had seemed so lovely beneath it. March 1 7th. — ^lounted and pursued my journey. To my extreme disgust, the obstinate old guide pulled up at the distance of twelve miles, and neither argu- ments nor threats could persuade him to progress. We, therefore, cam})ed at a small Khail, close to the ruined fort Shooniaukie, deserted since the Oxus found its passage northward, and forsook the Caspian. Shoomaiikie is upo»i the high l)ank of one of the river cliannels; up to this spot, the whole plain, which is the valley of the Oxus, lias been richly cultivated in former days, and is now much ncghjcted. )8tli. — iicsunu'd march (hnvn the abandoned chan- nel for about si.x miles, wiieii, on clinibiiig the high bank, or rather hills, left by the sinking of the rivt-r valley, a wide expanse of water burst u|)on my eye, VOL. I. I' 210 LAKK LOWDAIIN. which I coin ludcd was tho sea of Anil; my dcliglit was very great. Tlie Oxus was visil)le u])on tlie horizon, poiiniig its Avaters into this hike, of which tlie N.W. Coast was forinetl of high cliffs and the southern portion of the river valley. To the east only, M'ater was visible; 1 was, however, mistaken in my conjecture, for this is only the lake Lowdahn, which receives an arm of the Oxus. Striking across the high ground, we after a mile, again descended some cliffs, which wall in another valley in a singular manner. The cliff is of alternate strata of chalk and marie. The latter preponderating. The high ground, over which we had passed, was stony. The bottom of this valley was clay or marie, covered with a jungle of bushes. Towards evening we put up at a Khail of three black tents. (jn this march a little boy of Heraut, who is being carried by the Toorcumuns for sale to the Kuzzauks, attracted my attention. He is a beautiful child, of about seven years, with the regularl}' handsome fea- tures and large full eyes of the llerauties. He is full of spirit, and, in short, as fine a child as can be ima- gined. My people make much of him, I am deeply interested in his fate, and determined, that so soon as we reach Mungh Kishlauk, I will offer any horses and arms that cannot be sold for his freedom. A girl of about eleven years is another of the slaves. ISlie is a Tymunnee. March 19th. — Crossing this basin, in a direction nearly Avest, we reached, at the distance of ten miles, a cliff containing two artificial caverns, that have evi- dently been formed as habitations. Near them are some Kuzzauk tombs, formed of a circular palisade of thorny bushes, firmly fixed in the earth and bound around by withes. On the summit of this cliff, is the toml) of a man named Ibrahim, and the phice is called Ibrahim Aat'h. We soon afterwards ascended from this basin^ to the height of about three hundred feet, and camped at the summit of the cliffs walling ENCHANTED CASTLES. 211 in the valley. These clilfs are of stmta of chalk and marie, surmounted, by a stratum of shell limestone, containuiti: very perfect petrifactions of the cockle, muscle, und spirorbis. The substance of this stone is hard and brittle. It rings like porcelain, and sepa- rates into broad lamina}. It seems, generally, the uppermost stratum, but sometimes is covered with clay. It is almost entirely composed of the three shells above named, and I have never found any others in it, although I have examined a thousand specimens. - From this height, at the distance of twenty miles, on an Azimuth of 108'' I saw the ruined castle Ivohna AVuzeer, occupying an elevation in the midst of the wide valley, and isolated by steep and lofty ])recipices. It was built by demons in the reign of Adil Khaun ; but more of its history I could not learn. Enchanted castles abound in these parts. About forty miles north of Shoomaukie, is one called in Toorkish, Burrasun Gelmus,* or " the castle from which there is no return." The ruins are girdled by a ditch full of quicksands, and exhaling vapour and flame. The gate is guarded by two mighty dragons, who have never been known to sleep; many have, in olden times, attempted to explore these ruins, in search of the rich treasure deposited in their vaults — many have entered its precincts, but none have ever returned. Its mysteries ai'e as inviolate as the secrets of the tomb. Of late years, the attem])t has been abandoned : men do not account themselves (at least not in eastern lands) wiser, or more valiant, or more holy than their fathers. Another castle exists in tlicsc parts, ])ut its name 1 c«>uld not learn, filled with treasure beyond price, and guarded by encliantment. Madreheem Kliauii, the late king, sent, seventeen years ago, a [Kirty of * TIkj hiU; lA' this eiicliiuitA;(J ciistlo ajipearH to ho tho i.slaiiil in tlio midht of the .se.i f>f Anil. Ali rouM not pive mo any particular clue to the pfwition of cither of thtsc iiiins. 1. •> 212 KUZZM'K LAND. pioneers to explore tlic riiina. These had the courage to venture as far as thi- ditrh of the fortress, when a venerable man, evidently a saint, from his snowy robes and flowing white heard, appeared upon the battlements, . and exclaimed in a marrow-curdling voice, which, nevertheless, was mild and gentle, " lleturn, my children, return. Tiiis adventure is not for you ; the season for it is not at hand. It is reserved for a man, Yclcpd Muhummud, who is even now an infant, hanj^inu: from the breast. He shall come, in the year of the Hijjera, 1274, and shall prosper." The pioneers shouldered their shovels, and beat a retreat forthwith, placing the wheelbarrows on either flank; it was evidently not fear that inspired so masterly a retreat. March 20th. — AVe pursued our route over high land, dappled with half-melted snow. The marie soil, saturated with snow water, yielded beneath our horses feet, ffivinfx them much toil. This is our first march in the Kuzzauk countrv, of which the boundary is at Ibrahim Aat'h ; and Ibrahim Aat'h lies in a line, irregularly drawn from the south- western angle of the sea of Aral, west by south, to the Caspian. All, north of this line, is Kuzzauk land. Nevertheless, in the district of ■\Iungh Kishlauk, and in some other parts, Chowdhoor Toorcumuns feed their flocks and herds; and upon the borders of the sea of Aral, are found some families of Kahr a Kulpauk Oozbcgs. At a shallow basin of snow water, at the summit of the ascent, I saw large flocks of the antelope or sheep ( it is neither) of this steppe. We then descended, and encamped on lower ground, though still considerably elevated above the valley. Hence I perceived, gleaming in the distance, about twelve miles south by west, the wide, deep channel of the Oxus, filled with snow water, and tending in a direc- tion nearly south-west, toward the gulf of the Bal- kaun. Here then was a fact, fully established, of the accuracy of which so many have doubted, and which OLD CHANNELS OF THE OXUS. 213 I did not, until this moment, fully believe. The extent to which the country has been excavated, for a channel to the waters of this mighty river, admits of no doubt of the nature of the cause producing such eflfects — and having traced the river, thus far, there is no possibihty of its finding any other termination than the Caspian, because the land northward of its channel, in this part, is elevated far above the river valley, and besides 1 have since traversed it in a line which must have crossed the river channel, had it returned toward the sea of Aral. The reader, if he has curiosity and patience sufficient, may find the subject detailed and discussed in the Appendix. It is my custom, on long marches, occasionally to call my followers to my side, and make them relate some anecdote to beguile the way. Those of my Nazir, Nizaum, are very curious, but for want of timely notes, great part of them is lost. He was porter in the service of one of the Sirdars of Candahar, Kuheem dil Khaun, I think. This chief was married to a fierce Populzye of high family, who had been very beautiful, but was now somewhat passe, without having lost any of her pretensions. His brother's widow, however, a very lovely creature, won his heart, and she consented to marry him. He had kept the matter a profound secret from his wife, but he was obliged, at length, in decency, to inform her. They were sitting, at the time of the cxi)la- nation, upon a carpet, a brazier of live charcoal before them, it being the Avinter season. " And so," said the fair Populzye, in an indifi\;rent tone of voice, shifting a little nearer to the fire, and stretching her hands over it, "so you are really bent u[)on marrying tliis lady?" Delighted to find his wife take it so quietly, the chief put on an air of double conscfjuence, as he replied, " We arc !" '' 'ilicn take tliat with her," said liic Ania/oii, emptying tin- bra/ier of live charcoal upon his fiice, 214 THE FAIR rOPULZYE. and then marching out of the room with great dignity. The retaliation was very severe. Not only was liis face scorclied and blistered, l)nt nearly the whole of his fin(^ beard, tliat dulcc dccu-'^ iiicidii of a iMuluunnie- dan, was singed to the roots, leaving liini in the most pitiable ])light imaginable. Meanwhile, the approach of the English to the Kojiik monntains w\as annoiineed, and he was summoned to aid his brother in council. He shut himself up in his Zenana, and pleaded illness. The moment was one of such urgency, that his repu- tation w^as at stake, as a man and a patriot, by his seclusion; whilst, to appear without a beard in public, and have it known that a woman was the destroyer, could not be thought of for a moment. The Populzj'-e, however, would not suffer him to escape through his precauti(jn. She spread the stor}' abroad, and it soon became the theme of mirth thi-ougliout Candahar. This Amazon was a woman of great muscular strength, and used to beat her husband when it suited her purpose. lie dared not put her away, on account of the power of her family, and she kept him in com- plete subjection. 1 enquired about the daughters of these chiefs, whether they were beautiful or not, but Nizaum replied — " I have eaten their salt, and Avill not reveal their secrets." " But surely it is no breach of trust to say that such a lady is pretty or ugly. Perhaps you have never seen them?" " Yes ! 1 have often seen them ; but they would not like their secrets to be discussed." I honoured Nizaum for this delicacy; and had never thought so highly of him as at that moment. He described the chief, Kohun Dil Khaun, as the best of the brothers, in regard to abilities for govern- ment; l)ut said that, disputes and jealousies between the three, prevented the adoption of any system of resistance. Had infantry pursued the chiefs, on our SIRDARS OF CUNDAHAR. 215 first reaching Candahar, he says, they would have overtaken them on this side the Helmund. Every one must regret that the vigorous policy urged by our Envoy and minister, on this occasion, was not pursued. He described the farewell of the chief, to those of his followers whom he had dismissed, as most affecting. Nizaum had offered his services, but they were declined, it being the object of the chiefs, to re- duce the number of their suite, for the sake of celerity. Unfortunately, my opportunities of committing to paper, any intelligence collected on this route, were so limited, that I have lost the greater part of Ni- zaum's anecdotes, many of which were highly inte- resting. We were often not settled until night, when, having neither chair, table, nor candle, writing was out of the question. At other times, we put up on the miry earth, in a storm of wind and rain, Avhen it was just as much as we could do to defend our- selves from the weather. Writing, under such cir- cumstances, is irksome, and often impracticable. CHAPTER XVII. Chase of tho wild Ass — Miry State of the Steppe — Intense Cold on the liigher Land — Antelope of the Steppe — Dry Basni of a Lake — Par- ticulare of the Miu-der at Khiva of the two European Travellers and their five Servants — Manners of the Kara Kulpauks and other Oozbegs — Cliaracter of the Country — Chalk Chfls, etc. "I/FARCH 2 1 St and 22n(l After traversing about ^^ fourteen miles of plain country, sprinkled with "wormwood, we halted to refresh the horses, and suffer the camels to gain upon us. Observing here a herd of about a hundred wild asses, feeding at no greut distance, I mounted, and went in pursuit. Two sportsmen, on foot, with matchlocks, were directed to circumvent them. Three mounted Toorcumuns rode in another direction, for the same purpose, and I, with two servants, filled up a fourth gap in the chain of this circle, our main party supplying the third. The herd took alarm, before our arrangements were completed, but, fortunately taking the direction of one of the footmen, the report of his matchlock checked, confused, and eventually drove them at full speed through the gap, between myself and the horses at graze. I spurred after them, but the state of the country was far too favourable to light weights. My enormous horse, encumbered by his body clothing, and his own and my weight, sunk, at the least infirm portions of the soil, over the fetlocks, and often above the knee. Nizaum, far better mounted, and less encum- bered, shot :ihead of me, but his horse's feet lifrhting upon an unusually deep slough, horse and man rolled head over heels. I could only approach near enough CHASE OF THE WILD ASS. 217 to ^ive them a couple of long shots from my carabine, and they soon were far ahead of me, their hoofs leav- ing little impression upon the quaking soil. We were returning in disgust, when we observed a straggler which we had cut off, endeavouring to re- join the herd. So we spurred after him, and Summud Khaun, mounted upon a lighter horse, and having the start of me, soon gained upon him, to my great surprise. I was still more astonished to observe, that the wild ass, instead of increasing, slacked his pace, and eventually stood still, whilst Summud Khaun rode up to him with a pistol. The pistol burnt priming, and the ass attacked the horse with teeth and heels, not seeming to understand that the rider was in reality his enemy. Summud Khaun drew his sabre, and cut the animal over the crest, and one of tlie Toorcumuns coming up with a spear, despatched him. I Avas disappointed in this game, which I had sup- posed infinitely more fleet and staunch. The fact is, that the wild ass Avhich feeds in herds in the steppe, is very different from that which lives an almost soli- tary life, at the skirt of the mountains, in Persia, Heraut, and Syria. The difference is probably con- fined to their respective habits. The latter is chased with relays of dogs and horses ; the former soon flags, becomes obstinate, and finally halts, to kick and bite the horse of his pursuer. Summud Khaun, who has chased many of these in the plains of Candahar, assures tne, that a well-mounted horseman can always overtake tliom. The quarry just killed was a vei'i- taiile donkey. The only observable diflrrence, that tlie ears are not much larger than those of an ordinary horse. The back sinews are farther separated from the bone, and the hooves of wider spread. The black cross, also, over the shoulders was wanting, or I am mistaken. In size it did not exceed the ass of I'^iig- land. At the close c)i" this march, we iound our- selves on the skirt of a valley, formed probably by the 218 MIHY STATE Oxus in vory romoto days. A coarse -featured old man rode out iVom the Kuz/auk Kliail, to meet us, upon a double-liumpcd camel, and having the usual bonnet of wolf's I'ur (hair inwards), which 1 and my people have been lilad to adopt in this severe climate. His fi;^ure wouhl liave aUbnled an excellent subject for the pencil, and his double-humped camel was as strange an animal as himself. We could only learn from liim, that some sugar would be very acceptable, and that we were welcome to his Khail. His lan- guage defie(l the ingeimity of my interpreter. March 23rd.— A large bank of clouds had been visible all the preceding day, on the north-east, over the sea of Aral. In spite of a strong easterly Avind, they appeared immoveable; but, being warned by previous experience, I anticipated rain and snow, nor was I deceived. The rain commenced during the night, and continued until the next evening, to our great discomfort. The country, already saturated with snow water, has become one wide marsh, and our perplexity is increased l)y the deceitfulness of appearances, the soil which the eye judges firmest generally proving the most treacherous. In other countries of such uneven surface, water runs off to the valleys, but this soil imbibes every drop; the earth probably having acquired porosity by the freez- ing of the water it contained, which would enlarge the pores; the subsequent thaw of this ice leaving them open. With infinite toil we accomplished ten miles, the rain falling all the while, and our horses sinking deep at every step. We then sat down upon some wet herbs, which we gathered, and disposed to prevent our sinking in the mud, and continued thus three hours in the rain, until the arrival of the camels. These luckless animals, heavily laden, sank at every step in the most hopeless manner. I pitched my tent over the mud, and took up my abode for the night, but not until I had seen my servants as well shel- tered as circumstances would allow. The baffs of or THE COUNTRY. 219 grain, piled in walls, form some protection from the wind, and a large thick nummud or felt, stretched above, forms something of a roof; nevertheless, these, and their abundant supply of woollen and furs, would not have saved them from Avet, had not the rain ceased early in the night. March 24th. — We resumed our march through a country in the state I have just described, and pro- ceeded fifteen miles with the utmost labour. No tent has been visible during the last two days. The sky was overcast, Init the rain spared us. The surface, here, is furrowed b}' deep ravines, whose course is south by a point west. The soil was everywhere trampled by the hoofs of wild asses, and manured with their dung. We put up for the night beyond a trifling eminence, called Ulla Suckul, or the "piebald beard," in consequence of the snow melting from its ridges, and lying in the ravines. March 25th. — The country to-day was somewhat firmer. The route, we have hitherto traveled, is practicable only in winter, when snow water is pro- curable. The summer route is fiirther north-east, but has no firewood. At the distance of fifteen miles we fell into this track, which is indeed bare. At twenty- five miles distance halted. No habitation in sight all day. March 26th. — We entered, this day, upon a region much colder, from its elevation, than any we have passed, although we have made little north latitude, and the season has progressed sixteen days, since leaving Khiva. Tlie snow was here lying in great abundance, and the spots from which it had melted were so miry, as greatly to distress the cattle. My best riding horse is spavined from his exertions. He was a present from Shauh Kaumraun, king of lleraut, to Major Todd, the J'ritish Envoy; a beautiful figure, and aljout sixteen hands h\jj:^\, but havin^j: no leirs equal to his great weigiit. We struck south-west, to avoid a valley inundat«'