CD o o S: P K UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES ~ ' HIGHNESS MAHARAO RAJA MAUGAL SINGH, CHIEF OF UI.WUR. GAZETTEER OF ULWUR. BY MAJOR P. W. tPOWLETT, LATE SETTLEMENT OFFICER OF ULWUR. LONDON: TRUBNER & CO., LUDGATE HILL. 1878. gallanivne fJrrss. HALLANTYNE, HANSON ANJ) CO. EDINBURGH AND LONDON ERRATA. Page 19, line 15 from top, for " Huchdwan," read " Kucbawan." 20, 3 from bottom, for " Samral," read " Samrat." 23, 7 from top, for " Before his death," read " Before his death, in in the year of turmoil, 1857." 31, 21 for " tree," read " trees." ., 32, 36 for " Phythanthus," read " Phyllanthus." 36, 9 for " Bubbul," read " Bulhul." 37, 20 for " Mathra," read " Mathura." 39, 24 for " Chauhdm," read " Chauhdn." 52, 13 omit stop after " Baldeo." 59, 24 for " Lds Das," read " Ldl Dds." 61, 13 for " Dadoi," read " Dadu." 66, 2 from bottom, for " dekhai," read " dekhat." 67, 10 omit comma between " Nakh, Sakh." 95, 24 for " this property," read " the property.'' 97, 15 for " acres," read " bighas." 105, 2 for " Silthet," read " Silhet." 127, ,, 14 from top, for "the area, &c., see page 191," read "present rent rates and Revenue, see pages 187 and 189." 136, 21 from bottom, for " 191," read " 189." 139, 28 for " 191," read " 189." 140, at bottom, for " 191," read " 189." ,,142, 13 from bottom, for "191," read" 189." 144, 30 for " 188, 192," read " 187, 189." 154, 11 from top, for " Alwar," read " Ulwur." 160, 9 for " partly in," read " partly in Kater." 162, 14 from bottom,/or " tahsis," read " tahsils." 196, 9 for " Banisrdwab," read " Bainsrdwat." 197, 9 for " Kahan," read " Kalian." 197, 8 for " Kahir," read " Kabir." ,,198, 7 from top, /or " Dasapra," read " Dasahra." 198, 11 from bottom, for " 88," read " 98." , PART I. HISTORICAL SKETCH. CHAPTER I. THE present territory of the Ulwur State, which is 3024 square miles in g extent, and contains a population of about 800,000, is composed of several tracts called the Raht, the Wai, portions of Narukhand or the Naruka 03 country, of the Rajawat country, and of Mewdt. It lies S.W. of Dehli, 3 its nearest point being about thirty-five miles distant from that city. The Raht lies on the north-west border. It is the country of Chauhan Rajputs, the head of whom claims to be the living representative of the famous Pirthwi Raj, king of Dehli, who fell in battle with the invading Musalmans. The Wai is on the western border, and is occupied chiefly by Rajputs of the Shekhawat clan, which is BO important in the adjoining State of Jaipur. The Rajawat country, in the south-west, was the territory of the once powerful Rajawat Rajputs of Jaipur. Narukhand, in the south-east, was held by the Naruka Rajputs. More regarding these small tracts will be found under " Districts," and a general description of the State at the beginning of Part II. The city of Ulwur, which is situated near the centre of the State, is in Mewat, of which it is now the largest and most important town. More than half the territory of the State, too, is in Mewat. The famous hills and strongholds of Mewtlt are in the part now included within the limits of Ulwur. In that portion, too, has usually been for many centuries the t of its Government. An historical sketch of Ulwur must, then, begin T with some notice of this tract. ^ The ancient country of Mewat may roughly be described as contained within a line running irregularly northwards from Dig in Bhartpur to about or somewhat above the latitude of Rewari, then westwards below Rewari to the longitude of a point six miles west of the city of Ulwur, A 356120 ( 2 ) nnd then south to the Bdrah stream in Ulwur. The line then turning east- wards, would run to Dig, and approximately form the southern boundary of the tract. The Mewat country possesses several hill ranges. Those under which lie the city of Ulwur and those which form the present boundary to the north-east were the most important. Tijara, lying near the latter, con- tended with Ulwur for the first place in Mewat* The mass of the population of Mewdt are called Meos ; they are Musal- mans, and claim to be of Rajput extraction (see Meos). They must not, however, be confounded with the Mewatti chiefs of the Persian historians, who were, probably, the representatives of the ancient Lords of Mewat. These Mewattis were called Khdnzadas (see Khanzadas), a race which, though Musalman like the Meos, was and is socially far superior to the Meos, who have no love for them, but who in times past have united with them in the raids and insurrections for which Mewdt was so famous, and which made it a thorn in the side of the Dehli emperors. In fact, the expression " Mewatti " usually refers to the ruling class, while " Meo " designates the lower orders. The latter term is evidently not of modern origin, though it is not, I believe, met with in history, and the former is, I think, now unusual, " Khdnzada" having taken its place. Mewat is repeatedly mentioned by the bard Chand in the Pirthwi Rdj Rdsa. Mahesh, Lord of Mewdt (Mendtpatti)^ is described as doing homage to Bisaldeo Chauhan of Ajmir in s. 821 (A.D. 764), and his descendant " Mungal " was conquered by the famous Pirthwi Raj of Dehli. Mungal and Pirthwi Raj married sisters, who were daughters of the Dahima Rajput, Chief of Biana, whose fort was afterwards so celebrated in Mughal history. That these Lords of Mewat were of the Jadii Rajput clan, would appear from the fact that local tradition declares it, and from converted Jddiis being called by the old Musalman historians " Mewdttis,"f a term Chand applies to a Mewdt chief of the Lunar race, of which race the Jddii Maharaja of Karauli calls himself the head (see page 3, note f). The earliest mention of Mewat by the Musalman historians, so far as I can ascertain, is in the Tarikh Firoz Shdhi, where its control by the Emperor Shamsuddin Altamsh, who died in A.D. 1235, is alluded to.J Some years after that date, Ghiyasuddin Balban, before he came to the throne, and when Governor of Hdnsi and Rewari, distinguished himself in expeditions against the inhabitants of Mewdt. After the accession of Balban in A.D. 1265, he felt the repression of the plunderers of Mewat to be the first of his duties. Owing to the neglect of those in power, they had become very troublesome indeed ; and, aided by the density and extent of the jungles, which reached to the city of Dehli, they made raids even to the walls, and the gates had to be shut at afternoon prayer, * Elliot's Mus. Hist., vol. iv. p. 273. -f Blochman's Aiu-i-Akbari, vol. i. p. 334. 1 1bid., vol. iii. p. 104. Brigg's Translation of Farishta, voL i. p. 249. ( 3 ) after which hour no one ventured out. At night they prowled into the city, and the inhabitants felt very insecure. The Emperor organised an expedition against the Mewattis, of whom large numbers were put to the sword. Police posts were established in the vicinity of the city, and placed in charge of Afghdns, with assignments of land for maintenance, and the army being supplied with hatchets, cleared away the woods round Dehli. The tract thus cleared was considerable, and became well cul- tivated.* This operation of Balban's seems to have been so effectual that there is little mention of Mewdt for a hundred years, during which the chiefs of Mewat appear to have maintained satisfactory relations with the authorities at Dehli. For after the death of Emperor Ffroz Shah in 1 388, we find Bahadar Ndhar Mewdtti, whose stronghold was at Kotila or Kotal in the Tijdra hills, occupying the place of a powerful noble at Dehli. This Bahddar Ndhar, a Jadii Rdjput by birth, is the reputed founder of the Khauzada race, which became so renowned in the history of the empire, f In conjunction with the household slaves of Ffroz Shah, Bahadar Ndhar aided Abubakar, grandson of the late Emperor Firoz, in expelling from Dehli Abubakar's uncle Ndsiruddin, and in establishing the former on the throne. In a few months, however, Abubakar had to give way before Ndsiruddin, and he then fled to Bahddar Ndhar's stronghold, Kotila, where he was pursued by Ndsiruddin. After a struggle Abubakar and Bahddar Ndhar surrendered, and Abubakar was placed in confinement for life, but Bahddar Ndhar received a robe and was allowed to depart. Two years later, the Emperor being ill, Bahddar Ndhar plundered the country to the gates of Dehli, but Nasiruddin, before he had quite re- covered from his illness, hastened to Mewdt and attacked Kotila, from whence Bahddar Ndhar had to fly to Jhirka, a few miles to the south in the same range of hills, and remarkable for its springs. In A.D. 1392, the Emperor Nasiruddin died, and Bahddar Ndhar, allied with one Mallii Yakbal Khan, held the balance between two rival claim- ants of the throne. | He would not allow either to gain an advantage over the other, so that for three years there were two emperors residing in the city of Dehli. * See Brigg's Farishta, vol. i. 255, and Musalman Historians, vol. iii. p. 104. t In speaking of Hasan Khan, the Mewdtti or Khanzdda Chief who was Bdbar's great opponent, one Musalman historian states that his family had enjoyed regal power up to the time of Firoz Shah, when Bahadar Ndhar flourished. Tradition tells of old Jddii chiefs of Tijara, in the neighbourhood of which we first hear of the Khdnzada family. Bdbar, how- ever, says that Hasan Khan's ancestors had governed Mewdt in uninterrupted succession for nearly two hundred years ; evidently dating the importance of the family from the time of Bahddar Ndhar. It is therefore most probable that Bahadar Ndhar was a member of a royal but fallen Jddii family, as the Khdnzddas themselves relate (see page 40), and that he or his father became a Musalman to gratify the Emperor Firoz and obtain power. J Brigg's Farishta, vol. i. p. 471 to 481, and Musalmau Historians. ( 4 ) Several historians, including the great conqueror himself, make pro- minent mention of the conduct of Bahddar Nahar during the invasion of Timurlang in A.D. 1398. Timur states that he sent an embassy to Ba- iu'ular Nahar at Kotila, to which a humble reply was received. Bahddar Nahar sent as a present two white parrots which had belonged to the late Emperor. Timur remarks that these parrots were much prized by him. Subsequently Bahddar Ndhar and his son, together with others who had taken refuge in Mewat, came to do homage to Timur. Amongst these was Khizar Khan, who so ingratiated himself with the Mughal that, after the departure of the latter, he, calling himself Timur's viceroy, became virtually emperor of Hindustan, and mention is made of his besieging Bahadar Nuliar in Kotila, which he destroyed, and compelled the Mewattia to take refuge in the mountains, A.D. 1421.* This is the last mention of Bahddar Nahar, who seems to have played a prominent part on the political stage for more than thirty years. The range of hills where he had established himself was peculiarly well suited for defence (see Tijdra), and on them he and his family seem to have had a series of strongholds, the ruins of which are still considerable. The viceroy, Khizar Khdn, was succeeded in A.D. 1421 by Saiyad Mubdrak, who, in A.D. 1424, ravaged rebellious Mewdt. The Mewattfs " having laid waste and depopulated their country," took refuge in the mountains of <4 Jahra,"f a place which was so strong that the Emperor had to return to Dehli without taking it. A year after he again marched against Mewdt, when Jallii and Kaddu,t grandsons of Bahadar Ndhar, and several Mewattis who had joined them, pursued the tactics adopted the previous year, and after laying waste their own territories, took up a position at Indor in the Tijara hills, ten miles north of Kotila. After resisting for some days, they were driven from Indor, which the Emperor destroyed. The insurgents retreated to the mountains of Ulwur, the passes of which they defended with much obstinacy, but eventually they had to surrender. These repeated expeditions against the Mewattis did not render them quiet, and four months after the attack on Ulwur the Emperor had again to send troops against them. These troops carried fire and sword throughout the whole of Mewat, which, however, remained a place of refuge to escaped prisoners. In A.D. 1427, the Emperor, after putting to death Kaddii Mewatti above mentioned, sent troops into Mewdt, the inhabitants of which as usual abandoned their towns and fled to the mountains. Jallii (Bahddar * Brigg's Farishta, vol. i. p. 495, and Musalmau Historians, vol. iii. p. 449, and vol. iv. pp. 35, 53. t No doubt Tijara, the initial letter of which was omitted. J I can find, local tradition notwithstanding, historical mention of only one son of Bahadar Ndhar who seems to have been of any account. This was Mubdrak Khdn, who, when acting with his father's old ally Mallu Yakbal Khan, was assassinated by him. Brigg's Farishta, vol. i. p. 518, and Mus. Hist., vol. iv. p. 61. ( 5 ) Ndhar's grandson), with Ahmad Khati and Malik Fakaruddin, who pro- bably belonged to the same family, collected a force within the fort of Ulwnr, and defended it so bravely that the imperial commander had to accept a war contribution and return to Dehli.* In A.D. 1428, the Emperor again marched to Mewat, and for a time at least subdued the country, obliging the inhabitants to pay him tribute. Rewad is spoken of as being in the hands of a Mewatti chief. In A.D. 1450, Bahlol Lodi acceded to the imperial throne. His first military movement was against Mewat. Ahmed Khan Mewattf, who held the country "from Mahrauli to Ladhii Sarai," near Dehli, submitted to the imperial force and was deprived of seven " parganahs " (subdivisions of districts), but was permitted to hold the remainder as tributary. Ah- med Khan appointed his uncle Mubarak Khan to be perpetually in attend- ance at court as his representative. During Bahlol's struggle with the king of Jaunpur,f Ahmed Khan Mewatti for a time supported the latter, and his conduct brought him another visit from the Emperor, to whom he was induced to submit. But Babar tells us that Mewdt was not included in the kingdom of Bahlol Lodi, who never really subjected it.J In A.D. 1488 Sikandar Lodi sat upon the throne of Dehli. At this period Tijdra was the seat of an Imperial Governor, and a Mewatti or Khdnzada, Alain Khan, was one of his distinguished officers. In A.D. 1526 a new power appeared in India. Babar, who claimed to be the representative of Timur Lang, after winning the battle of Panipat, took possession of Dehli and Agra ; and determined that his enterprise should not be a mere raid like Timur's, but the foundation of a new and lasting empire. Then it was that the Rajputs made their last great struggle for independence. They were led by Rana Sankha, a chief of Mewdr, who invited the Mewatti chief, Hasan Khan, to aid the nation from which he had sprung in resisting the new horde of Musalmans from the north. The political position of Hasan Khan at this time was a very important one. Babar, in his autobiography, speaks of him as the prime mover in all the confusions and insurrections of the period. He had, he states, vainly shown Hasan Khan distinguished marks of favour, but the affec- tions of the infidel lay all on the side of the Pagans i.e., the Hindoos ; and the propinquity of his country to Dehli, no doubt, made his opposition especially dangerous. Hasan Khan's seat at this time was at Ulwur, but local tradition says that he was originally established at Bahddarpur, eight miles from Ulwur, which was then in the possession of the Nikunipa Rajputs. || Babar's great victory over the Rajputs and Mewattis at Fatahpur * Brigg's Farishta, vol. i. p. 521. t Ibid., vol. i. p. 553, and Mus. Hist t Mus. Hist., vol. iv. p. 2(3:!. Brigg's Farishta, vol. i. p. 566 ; Mus. Hist., vol. v. p. 97. || lu five of the six lists of the thirty-six royal races of Itdjputs collected by Colonel ( 6 ) Sikri relieved him of further difficulty with respect to Mewdt, where he proceeded immediately after the battle. Hasan Khdn had either fallen in the struggle or he had immediately afterwards been murdered by a servant instigated by his relations. Bdbar " advanced four marches from Fatah- pur Sikri, and after the fifth encamped six kos from the Fort of Ulwur, on the banks of the River Manisni."* A messenger from Hasan Khan's son, Ndhar Khdn, arrived begging for pardon, and on receiving an assur- ance of safety, Nahar Khdn came to Bdbar, who bestowed on him a " par- gana" of several lacs (of dams, of which forty go to the rupee), for his support Bdbar states that " Hasan Khan's ancestors had made their capital at Tijara," but when he came to Mewat, Ulwur was the "seat of Govern- ment." The conqueror bestowed the city of Tijara, which he still desig- nates " the capital of Mewat," on a follower named Chin Timiir Sultan, with fifty lacs of dams. Fardi Khan, who had commanded the right flank in the battle of Fatahpur Sikri, received charge of the Fort of Ulwur. Babar himself visited and examined the Fort, where he spent a night, f and the treasure in which he bestowed on his son Humaiyiin. The political power of the Khanzada chiefs of Mewat was now per- manently broken, aud they do not again appear, like Bahadar Nahar and Hasan Khan, as the powerful opponents or principal allies of emperors. There was a regular succession of Mughal Governors or Fort Commandants of Ulwur and Tijara; stone causeways were run across the hills in the neighbourhood of Kotila and Tijara ; and the anecdotes of Lai Das, a re- ligious reformer half Hindu, half Musalman who flourished in Mewat in the time of Akbar and Shah Jahan, are full of oppressions, practised not by local potentates settled in the country, but by Mughal officers. The Khanzadas still retained local importance, which, as will be subsequently shown, did not quite disappear until the present century. The extent of the territory they once held is pretty well indicated by the Musalman historians, existing traditions, and local remains. Rewari was at times Tod the name " Nikumpa " appears ; but Tod could find out nothing of the history of the Nikumpa.race, except that they preceded the Sesodias at Mandelgarh in Mewar. Had hia inquiries extended to Ulwur, he would have discovered that local tradition declares the Nikumpa to have been the earliest possessors of the town and fort of Ulwur, and of the surrounding territory. Khilora, an important village in Ramgarh, is said to have be- longed to them, and the first erection of the fort of Indor is attributed to them. The ruling Nikumpa family is said to have sprung from the no longer existing village of Ab- haner, the site of which lies about nine miles north of Ulwur in the Dehra valley, a locality in other respects remarkable (see Religion, page 53). According to a local rhyme they removed from Abhaner to Dadikar, which is situated deeper in the hills, and somewhat nearer Ulwur. At Dadikar, Chand Rai Nikumpa is said to have assumed the title of Raja. * The Bdrah or Riiparel. It is called " Mahnus Nye " in Thorn's plan of the battle of Laswarree. t Mus. Hist., vol. iv. pp. 202-273. held by them, at Sonah in Gurgaom, not far from Tijara, considerable tombs and ruins now existing are attributed to them, and the Khanzadas themselves declare that they held 1484 kheras (towns and villages), extending over all Mewat. However, a comparison of their genealogies and records with the Persian histories seems to show that little depend- ence is to be placed on the former, though, no doubt, they indicate general facts. Soon after Babar's death, his successor, Humaiyun, was in A.D. 1540 supplanted by the Pathan Sher Shah, who, in A.D. 1545, was followed by Islam Shah. During the reign of the latter a battle was fought and lost by the Emperor's troops at Ffrozpur Jhirka, in Mewat, on which, however, Islam Shah did not loose his hold. An inscription on a fine tank in the Ulwur Fort states that it had been constructed by Chand Kazi, Governor of the Fort (Hakim Killa), under orders from Islam Shah, and that it was completed in H. 958 (A.D. 1550). Adil Shah, the third of the Pathdn interlopers, who succeeded in A.D. 1552, had to contend for the Empire with the returned Humaiyun. Adil Shah had been established on the throne by Hemii, an extra- ordinarily able and brave man, of a trading or baniya caste, called Dhiisar, whom I mention as he was a native of Macheri in the present Ulwur territory, and then apparently included in Mewat. Hemii is perhaps the greatest of that class of men who, though sprung from the trading order, are often the most valiant and reliable soldiers and admi- nistrators in Native States. He is said to have been originally a weigh- man in the bazaar, and after his rise he not only enabled Adil Shah to triumph over those who first opposed him, but when the Mughals re- appeared he resisted them successfully, and was regarded by them as the most formidable of their foes. It seems probable that he would have succeeded in finally defeating the invaders, but that he was mortally wounded when winning a victory at Panipat. Before his death he was taken before the young Akbar and Bairam Khan. The latter tried to induce the Emperor to slay him with his own hand, and when he refused, Bairam Khan killed him himself. A force was sent into Mewat to take possession of Hemii's wealth, which was there together with his family, and also to reduce Haji Khan, a slave of the late Emperor Sher Shah, but a brave and able general. He was setting up pretensions to rule in Ulwur, but he did not venture to resist Akbar's troops, and fled to Ajmir. At Macheri, however, where Hemii's family resided, there was much resistance before it was captured. Hemii's father was taken alive, and his conversion attempted. The attempt failed, and he was put to death.* In these struggles for the restoration of Babar's dynasty Khanzadas * Mus. Hist, vol. iv. p. 484. ( 8 ) apparently do not figure at all. Humaiyun seems to have conciliated them by marrying the elder daughter of Jamdl Khan, nephew of Babar's opponent, Hasan Khan, and by causing his great minister, Bairam Khan, to marry a younger daughter of the same Mewdtti. Mirza Hinddl, brother of Humaiyun, had been placed in charge of Mewdt after the death of Babar, and when contending with Humaiyun he is once spoken of as having retired to Ulwur, where he was in security. This was before Humaiyuu's expulsion.* After Akbar's return, Bairdm Khan, when offended, once left the court and went to Ulwur, whence he was induced to return. But though the hills of Mewat may have been attractive to the great discontented nobles of the empire, the people of Mewdt seem to have been quiet enough, and the Khdnzddas to have become distinguished soldiers in the imperial armies. f * Mus. Hist., vol. iv. p. 295, vol. v. pp. 189, 202. t Blochman's Ain-i-Akbari, vol. i. p. 391. ( 9 ) CHAPTER II. MEWAT, when reduced to subjection, yielded a revenue of 169,81,000 taiikas * to Babar, who includes it in his list of conquered states. It appears from the " Ain-i-Akbari " that the country was divided into two " Sirkdrs," or districts, Ulwur and Tijdra. Both pertained to the Siibah, or province of Agra; but the term " Mewdt" did not officially disappear, as faujdars of Mewdt continued to be appointed. The office was sometimes held with the Siibah of Dehli. The Sirkar of Ulwur contained 43 Mahdls or subdivisions, which comprised 1612 villages, having an area of 2,457,410 bighas (1,535,881 acres), and yielding a revenue of 5,924,232 dams, Rs. 1,48,105. The Mahdls were as follow : (1.) Ulwur. (2.) Dehra, situated within the limits of the present Tahsfl of Ulwur. (3.) Dadikar, do. do. do. (4.) Baha'darpur, do. do. do. (5.) Mungana, do. do. do. (6.) Pinan, do. do. do. Rajgarh. (7.) KbUaura, do. do. do. Ramgarh. (8.) Jalalpur, do. do. do. Lachmangarb. (9.) Bahroz, do. do. do. Mandawar. (10.) Rata, do. do. do. Kishengarh. (11.) Nogaon, do. do. do. Raingarb. (12.) Rasgan, do. do. do. Rdmgarb. (13.) Harsana, do. do. do. Lachmangarh. (14.) Maujpur, do. do. do. (15.) Ghat, do. do. do. (16.) Hasanpur Khori, do. do. (17.) Balehta, do. do. do. Ulwur. (18.) Bharkol, do. do. do. (19.) Bhajera, do. do. do. (20.) Umran, do. do. do. (21.) Hajipur, do. do. do. Bansur. (22.) Deoti, do. do. do. Rajgarh. (23.) Kohrana, do. do. do. Bahror, * Presumably Sikandari tankas, or Rs. 8,490,50. See Thomas Pathan's Kings of Dehli, p. 391. t Blochman's Translation of Xin-i-Akbari, p. 493. B ( 10 ) situated within the limits of the present Tahsil of Ramgarh. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. Lachmangarh. Kishengarh. (24.) Mubarikpur, (25.) Baroda Meo, do. (26.) Ismallpur, do. (27.) Khairtal, do. (28.) Harsauli, do. (29.) Toda Bhil, (30.) Antela Bhalera, (31.) Bairat, (32.) Balhar, (33.) Baroda Tatali Khan, (34.) Ghata, or Lfsana, (35.) Hasanpur Mundawar, (36.) Kiyara, alias Bhangarh, (37.) GhatPiran, a/t'osRampur, (38.) MandaorA, (39.) Bbitwaii, (40.) Bhadawar, (41.) Nahar Kho, (42.) Muhaniraadabad, (43.) Koladar, The Sirkar of Tijara was made up of 18 Mahals, containing 253 villages, with an area of 200,976 bighas, or 125,600 acres, and yielding 3,22,92,880 dams, or Us. 807,322. The Mahals were (1.) Tijara. (2.) Indor, in the present Tahsil of Tijara. Generally in Jaipur territory. (3.) Pur, do. (4.) Bambohra, do. (5.) Ghar Kd Thana, (6.) Ujfoa, (7.) UraraUmrl, (8.) Pfnagwan, (9.) Jhamrawat, (10.) Kbanpur, (11.) Sakras, (12.) Santhawari, (13.) FirozpurJhir, (14.) Tatahpur, (15.) Kotla, (18.) Kharera, (17.) Besuni, (18.) Nagina, do. Kishengarh. do. do. Generally in Gurgaom district of British territory. Akbar appears to have given some attention to Mewdt In H. 957 (A.D. 1579), he visited Ulwur on his way to Fatahpur Sikri. Local tradition says that under his direction a turbulent class called Malliks, who were settled at Mungana, a few miles south of Ulwur city, was exterminated, and the present village of Akbarpur founded on the site of Mungana, which was destroyed. But no mention of this is made in the ( 11 ) Persian history of Badaiini, although the historian was with Akbar on his visit to Ulwur.* These Malliks seem to have been Rajputs con- verted to Islam. There were traditions of them both in the north and east, as well as to the south of Ulwur, but none now survive. In fact, Mewat seems to have given the Mughal Government but little real trouble. Even tradition speaks of but one serious emeute on the part of the old rulers of the country. This is said to have occurred in Aurang- zeb's time, when Ikram Khdn Khanzada plundered the country and took from the Governor of Tijara his standard and kettledrum. But it is not pretended that Ikrdm Khan made himself really formidable (see Tijara). An old book f in the possession of one Hakiui Zakaria, of Ulwur, states that the famous Sawdi Jai Singh of Jaipur obtained Ulwur in jdgir from Auraugzeb. However, he was permitted to hold it for a few years only, because it was pointed out to the Emperor that the fort was too strong and too near Dehli to be left in the possession of the Jaipur Raja. The Emperor sent a person to make a plan of the Ulwur fort, which, after taking it out of the hands of Sawdi Jai Singh, he repaired and garrisoned with imperial troops. It would appear that Aurangzeb himself visited Ulwur, for the inscription on a mosque in the city notifies it was built by his order. About A.D. 1720, when Muhammad Shah was Emperor, Churaman, the first great Jdt freebooter, reached Tijara, plundering the country wherever he went (see Tijara). He does not seem to have effected a permanent lodgment; but between A.D. 1724 and 1763 the Jdts over- ran the country. They occupied Bdnsur, Hajipur, Rampur, Kishen- garh, Maudawar, Barod, Bahror, Karnikot, Tijara, and their progress was more especially marked between A.D. 1745 and 1763, when the energy of Surajmal, the grand-nephew of Churaman, directed them. After his death the Sikhs plundered in the Tijara district, from which the Jats were ousted by Najaf Kiili Khan, a converted Rahtor Rajput, and Jagirdar of Rewari, who had risen in the service of the imperial commauder-iu-chief, the famous Najaf Klidn. Kiili Khan \ tried to oust * At the time of Akbar's visit there was a celebrated saint, named Shekh Mubarak Mulaua, resident at Ulwur. A long story is told of how Akbar visited him, and was made to feel his miraculous power. One would have expected that the story would have had so much foundation as consists in an actual visit of Akbar to the shekh. But there is almost proof positive that it has not that foundation, tadauni was with Akbar, observing his proceedings. He had the highest veneration for the shekh, a sketch of whose life and the time of whose death he gives, and yet he says nothing of the visit, which, had it occurred, would have been one of the greatest events in the shekh's life, and which Badauni himself would have witnessed. t This old book, and a Tarikh Hind in the Raj library, specify the persons appointed to important office in Mewat from Aurangzeb's time to Badan Singh Jat's ; but a string of names can be of no value here. The officials were all Musalmau. Najaf Kulf Khan died at Kanound (now Patiala territory), where Appa Sahib besieged his widow. Ismail Beg came to her assistance, but was taken prisoner by the Marhattas, and eventually died in confinement at Agra. ( 12 ) the Jdts from Kishengarh, hut failed, and Ismail Beg, also a celebrated Mughal leader, was sent by the Marhattas to supersede him. The two, however, played into each other's hands, and Ismail Beg held Tijara unmolested until the Marhattas, whom he had defied, came to oust him.* After fluctuations of fortune, Ismail Beg was finally defeated at Patan, near Kot Putli, and his army scattered. After this the Marhattas occu- pied Tijara, which some years after was again recovered by the Jats. The Jats, however, were usually more or less subject to Najaf Khan, who was, perhaps, the last of the great imperial officers, and whose dominion embraced all Mewat. The Narukas had now joined in the struggle for territory (A.D. 1 770-75), f and the Jats, weakened by Najaf Khdn, could not resist them. At no time had either Jats or Marhattas held the small tract of country lying south of the towns of Ulwur and Ramgarh and known as Narukhand, or the abode of the Nariikas, and I must now trace the origin aud growth of this great sept, which at present rules the Ulwur State. * Keene's Mughal Empire, p. 193 ; arid Tijara Local History. The Marhattaa, under Sindiah, are once meutioned as retreating on Ulwur before Ismail Beg. _Skinner > s Life, vol. i pp. 47, 48. t Keene, p. 126. CHAPTER III. UDE KARAN, head of the Kachwuha tribe of Itajpiits, and Chief of the territory now known as Jaipur, took his seat on the " Cushion " in s. 1424 (A.D. 1367). His eldest son, Bar Singh, was the ancestor of the present ruling house of Ulwur. Bar Singh was to have married a certain lady for whom his father in jest pretended a fancy. The joke gave Bar Singh deep offence. He insisted on Ude Karan taking his place as bride- groom, and to any son who might be born of the marriage he resigned his right to the " Cushion " after his father's death. Nahar Singh was the issue of the marriage, and, accordingly, he succeeded his father, while Bar Singh received only an estate of eighty-four villages, known as Jhak and Mozabad, or Maujabad, small towns twenty- five or thirty miles south-west of the city of Jaipur. Mairaj, Bar Singh's son, is said to have been at one time in posses- sion of Amer, then the capital town, where he constructed the Mahata Tank. Naru, son of Mairaj, did not retain Amer. He was supplanted by Chandar Sen in s. 1 527, and returned to Mozabad. Narii gave his name to the clan descended from him, and known as Nariika. He had five sons Ldldf ancestor of the Lalawat Nariikas, to which the Ulwur family belongs. Ddsd, ancestor of the Dasawat Nariikas, to which the Chief of Uniara and that of Lawa belong. Tejsfs descendants have villages in Jaipur, and village Hadirhera in Ulwur. Jeta's descendants had Pipal Khera in Govindgarh, and now have villages in Jaipur. Chitar's children hold Naitala Kaikari in Ulwur, a very small jagfr. Lala, the eldest, is said to have declined continuing the struggle for the Amer " Cushion," and his father consequently treated him as a younger sou, and in his lifetime consigned his own regal claims (jugrdj kiya) to the high-spirited Dasa, who also received most of his father's estate, Lala obtaining only Jhak and twelve villages. Lala, however, for the loyal spirit he displayed towards his chief, Bharat Mai, is said to have received from him the title of Rao and a banner (Nishan). His son, Ude Singh, served under Bharat Mai of Amer, and usually led the van of battle (harol). His son, Lar Khan, was much with the great MAu Singh, and is said to have received his ( 14 ) title of Khan from the Emperor. Lar Khdu's son, Fateh Singh, had issue as follows : 1. Rao Kalidn Singh. 2. Karan Singh, whose descendant holds village Bahali of Rajgarh, Ulwur. 3. Akhe Singh, whose descendant holds village Narainpur of Rajgarh, Ulwur. 4. Ranchor Das, whose descendant holds village Tikel of Jaipur. Rao Kalian Singh appears to have been the first of the Lalawat Narukas to settle in the present Ulwur territory, but Dasawat Narukas were already established in the tract called Nariikhand, of which a portion now forms a part of Southern Ulwur territory (see " Aristocracy," page 121). Kalidn Singh is said to have lost the old family estate of Jhak in supporting his Chief, Jai Singh, against a rival, and to have received Macheri, an estate which lay on the eastern border of the Nariikhand of the Dasawats, and which became included in that tract. His services, how- ever, were chiefly performed at Kama-, which had been bestowed on Sawai Jai Singh by Aurangzeb, and in the neighbourhood of which the Meos were troublesome. The government of Kama, now in Bhartpur, seems to have been regarded as difficult and important, for one or more of Sawai Jai Singh's own sons is said to have taken the place of Kalian Singh, who then returned to Macheri. It is probable that he continued to consider himself the rightful Jagirdar of Kama, the claim to which was revived by his descendant, Bakhtdwar Singh. One legend says he returned home in consequence of a prophetic rhyme addressed to him by a lady upon the funeral pile, whose directions he had solicited just before she became " Satf." " Jao has ab des men, Rao Kalianjl ap. Age kul men honge, partapik Partap." " Go, dwell in your own land, Rao Kalian. Of your house will hereafter be The fortunate Partap." The date of Kalian Singh's return to Mdcheri is given as Asoj Sudi doj s. 1728 A.D. (1671). Kalian Singh had six sous, of whom five had issue. Their seats are all, except Pai, situated in the present Ulwur territory, and were as follows : Mdcheri, founded or occupied by Rao Anand Singh, eldest sou and head of the family. Para, founded or occupied by Sham Singh. Pai, founded or occupied by Jodh Singh. Nizamatnagar in Ulwur is the present head seat. Kkora, founded or occupied by Amar Singh. Palrva, founded or occupied by Isri Singh. ( 15 ) The sons of Kalidn Singh are said to have furnished eighty-four horses to the service of Jaipur. A horse represented about 200 culti- vated acres. The Macheri family split into two (see Genealogical Tree in Appendix); the head of the elder branch is now the Ulwur Chief. The head of the junior is the Thakur of Bijwtlr, who is, therefore, more nearly related to the Chief than the members of any of the other four families. Bijwar, Para, Pdi, Khora, and Palwa are known as the " panch thikanas " of Ulwur, and they and their offshoots together are spoken of as the " Bdra Kotri," a term which was borrowed from Jaipur, where it is applied to some families related to the Chief. It was Rao Anand Singh's two grandsons who divided the estate of Macheri. Rao Zorawar Singh, as head of the house, remained at Macheri. Zalim Singh received Bijwar. Zorawar Singh's grandson and second successor was Rao Partdp Singh, who developed his little estate of two and a half villages into a principality, and threw off allegiance to Jaipur. Partap Singh's energy and address seem early to have made him prominent in Jaipur.* He contended with the Nathdwat Thakur of Chomu for the highest place in Darbdr; he was ordered to coerce his turbulent brethren, the Nanikas of Unidrd, whose peace with the Jaipur chief was made by him. He was sent with Jaipur troops to relieve the fort of Ranthambor, the imperial garrison of which was besieged by Marhattas. At length his position or conduct excited jealousy at Jaipur, and a famous astrologer drew attention to the rings in his eyes, which are considered to indicate one destined to kingly dignity. His presence at Jaipur was in consequence thought dan- gerous to the Chief, and he had to fly for his life. At Rajgarh (in Ulwur), where he stopped, he is said to have met his brethren and to have enjoined them to remain faithful to their Chief, the Raja of Jaipur. He himself proceeded towards Dehli vid Dig, where he took service with the great Jit, Suraj Mai. After the latter's death, his son, Jawahir Singh, resolved to march to Pokhar through Jaipur territory ; and Partap Singh, still loyal to his Chief, quarrelled with Jawahir Singh on that account, left him, and returned to Jaipur, where his assistance was much desired. Jawahir Singh, who had the well-known Sumroo with his army, avoided the direct * The sketch of Partap Singh's career and of the origin of the Nanikas has been chiefly derived from a compilation by the late Diwan Jai Gopal, who was the best-informed of the old Ulwur officials ; and another by Sheo Bakhsh Bharait, one of the most intelligent of the Ulwur rhymers. The works most referred to by Sheo Bakhsh and Jai Gopal are a bansdoli, or clan history, of the Kachwaha, compiled under the direction of the Jaipur Tliakur of Chomu, a ballad on Partap Singh, called the " Part ap-ra-sa," written twenty- five years after the death of Partap Singh, and a second ballad bearing the same name, written in M. R. Banui Singh's time. However, the sketch has no pretension to accuracy, though probably the transactions in which Pailap Singh took a prominent part are fairly indicated, and the dates of his main successes are sufficiently recent to have been preserved by local tradition, impressed as they would have been on the minds of the people. ( 16 ) route, and tried to make his way through Tonrawati, a hilly country thirty miles north of Jaipur. There Partap Singh counselled an attack, and the famous battle of Maonda was fought, in which the Jats were defeated. Sambat 1823 (A.D. 1766), Jawahir Singh retreated via Ulwur* to Bhartpur, pursued by the Jaipur forces under one Raj Singh, an artillery- man. Partap Singh, aft.er the victory, went straight to Jaipur, and ob- tained the Chief's permission to build a fort at Rajgarh, near Macherf. The site of the fort was, at Partap Singh's request, chosen, and the first matlock struck by Raj Singh, then returning from the pursuit of the Jats, and this Raj Singh is said to have subsequently led the Jaipur troops in attacking it.f This fort of Rajgarh was the first considerable stronghold possessed by Partdp Singh, who for some time after the battle of Maonda preserved friendly relations with his Chief. This appears from the fact of his going in charge of the Chief's heir when the latter went to be married at Bikanir in s. 1825 (Bikdnir Gazetteer, p. 62). Shortly after he seems to have practically set up for himself. He established relations with Mirza Najaf Khan (the well-known imperial general) and the Marhattas, and encouraged the people of the country to look to him as their protector. He estab- lished forts in s. 1827 (A.D. 1770), at Tahla and Rdjpiir, near Rajgarh, completed the fort of Rajgarh in s. 1828 (A.D. 1771), built or strengthened Mdla Khera fort between Ulwur and Rajgarh in s. 1829, Baldeogarh in s. 1830, Partapgarh in s. 1832, and about the same time Kankwari, Thana Ghdzi, and Ajabgarh, all in the south-west of the present territory. He also occupied other territory of Jaipur to the south-west, J which was, however, recovered by that State partly during the lifetime of Partdp Singh, partly during his successor's. Partap Singh at one time occupied territory up to the Sikar villages in Shekhawatti. With the Rao Raja of Sikar he formed an alliance, and, according to the Sikar account, enabled him to punish his troublesome neighbours of Kdnsli. The Ulwur fort was in the hands of the Jdts of Bhartpur, who at the time Partdp Singh's reputation was growing were reduced to great straits by Najibudaula, the imperial minister, and by Mirza Najaf Khan, the commander-in-chief of the imperial forces. The pay of the garrison was much in arrears, and the Jdt Chief made no pretence of ability to liquidate the debt. " Give the ruin to whom you will," he said, " I don't want it." The fort-commandant then invited Partdp Singh to take possession of the fort on condition that he paid the garrison what was due to them. Partap Singh was then at Kaukwdri (the least accessible of the Ulwur forts), and having accepted the terms, he came to Ulwur and entered the fort by the Lachman Pol gate, Mnngsar, Sudi 3, s. 1832 (Nov. 1875). * Keene's Moghul Empire, p. 82. t The name of the hill on which it was situated is Ba"grajkf Pahari. t Bairat, Piiigpura, Antela, Bhabra, Merh, Sital, Tala, Dhola, Garhria. ( 17 ) Up to the taking of the Ulwur Fort, Partap Singh's brethren had not recognised him as their Chief, but now they began to do homage and present offerings (nazars). They seem to have been jealous of, or offended with, Sariip Singh, probably the principal Dasawat Nariika in Nanikhand, who held the forts of Ramgarh and Taur (now Lachmangarh), and opposed Partap Singh. One Andlia Naik pretended to desert with a party to Sariip Singh, and thus gaining admission to Taur, made Sariip Singh a prisoner, and brought him to Ulwur. Partap Singh received him in the fort, nnd ordered him to present a nazar. He refused, whereupon Partap Singh put him to death, by binding a strip of wetted buffalo's hide round his head, which, slowly contracting as it dried, burst his skull (bddk bandhwd diya). Sariip Singh's death placed Partap Singh in possession of more territory in Nanikhand, and, taking advantage of the depressed condition of the Jats, he, between s. 1832 and 1839, obtained Bahadar- pur, Dehra, Jhindoli, Bansiir, Bahror, Bdrod, Rampur, Harsaura, Hajipur, Hamirpur, Narainpur, Gadhi Marniir, Thana Ghazi. When Najaf Khan attacked Dig, s. 1832 (A.D. 1775), Partap Singh sent a force under one Khushali Ram Haldia to aid him, but disagreement arose, owing, it is said, to Najaf Khan's intention of invading Jaipur, which Partap Singh declared he would resist. One account says that Najaf Khan ordered Partap Singh to vacate the Ulwur Fort, or to pay tribute to the Emperor, and on his refusal, marched against him, and so the siege of Lachman- garh which is the subject of a ballad took place. The Marhattas aided Partap Singh, and after four months the siege was raised. When Najaf Khan abandoned the siege, Khushali Ram, above mentioned, remained with him as Partap Singh's Vakil. His brother, Daulat Ram, was also in Partap Singh's service, and the latter is said to have given both brothers deadly offence by cuffing Daulat Ram. In revenge they urged Najaf Khan to make a prisoner of Partap Singh when he, on invitation, came to- wards Dig to confer with Najaf Khan. Accordingly, the Musalman troops surrounded Partap Singh and his party at Rassia, near Nagar in Bhartpur. Partap Singh, who was engaged in worship when the surprise occurred, was induced by Thakur Mangal Singh of Khera, who had distinguished himself in the Lachmangarh campaign, to save himself, and, with such of his followers as could break through, he escaped to Lachmangarh. The Rassia attack is commemorated in an ironical couplet " Rassia wfili Dungri tujb ko sat ealam, Ure kasumbi pagrl, lajja rakbe Ram." " Rassia bill, seven times salutation, Tbeir red turbans flew off, may Ram save their honour." The Rassia affair is said to have occurred s. 1836 (A.D. 1779). Partap Singh was hard put to it for money, but he replenished his coffers by robbing a rich person at Thana Ghazi, and he plundered Baswa, a town of ( 18 ) Jaipur, near Rajgarh. Daulat Ram, who had gone to Jaipur, again advised an attack on his old master, and in B. 1839, an army from Jaipur, headed by the Chief himself, whose name also was Partap Singh, approached Rajgarh. Partap Singh of Ulwur, declaring that he would go to meet (peshwdi) his Chief in due form, rode into the Jaipur camp, and, without attempting the life of the Raja, killed a buffalo near his tent, attacked and slew some of his old enemies, the Nathawats, and retreated to Rajgarh, which the Jaipur force failed to take, and Partap Singh having allied himself with the Marhattas, the Raja was reduced to great straits. Partap Singh, seeing his old Chief in difficulties, acted towards him, it is said, with forbearance. Partap Singh's most trusted officials were Hoshdar Khan and Mian Jiwan Khan. The former was his agent with General Perron, Sindhia's famous French officer, and aided by Najaf Khan, he obtained for his master from the Emperor, at Dehli, the much-coveted insignia called " Mahi Maratib," which are preserved by the Ulwur Darbar with care, and still paraded on great occasions. His minister, Ram Sewak, is spoken of as aiding much in the acquirement of funds. Khushali Ram Haldia was murdered by direction of Partap Singh, whom he had abandoned,* but Partap Singh made terms with the Haldia family during the Jaipur attack on Rajgarh, and a member of it is now chief officer of the army. Partap Singh died in s. 1847 (A.D. 1791). Before his death, having no sons of his own, he selected an heir jn a curious manner. Any boy of " the twelve kotrfs," that is, any descendant of Kalian Singh, was held by him to be eligible, and in order to secure the best, he assembled his young kins- folk, probably eliminated those whose horoscopes were not promising, and finally selected Bakhtawar Singh of Thdna ; because, though a little child, he preferred a sword and shield to any of the toys which pleased the other boys. Bakhtawar Singh was not only far from being the nearest of kin to Partap Singh, but he was not even a scion of one of the five chief families. The Thana house to which he belonged was a junior branch of Para ; and a family precedent was thus established which was to have a lasting influence. Partdp Singh was a man of great ability and courage, and his personal prowess is much talked of. His mode of putting Sariip Singh to death, and his execution of an unfortunate slave-girl for peeping over a wall iu the Ulwur Fort, seem to indicate that he was rather a cruel man. It is remarkable how much the accounts of him dwell upon his natural loyalty and constant forbearance towards the Chief of his tribe, the Maharaja of Jaipur. The following is the list of parganahs Partap Singh is said to * In 1874, when I, as Settlement Officer, was inspecting villages in Lachmangarh, some Eaorias came to complain that they had been deprived of a certain village received in rent- free grant by an ancestor for distinguished service to the State. It turned out that this service was the murder of Kl.usbali Bam. ( 19 ) have been in possession of at hia death : Ulwur, Mala Khera, Rajgarh, Rajpur, Lachmangarh, Gobindgarh, Pipal Khera, Ramgarh, Bahadarpur, Dehra, Jiudoli, Harsaura, Bahror, Barod, Bansiir, Rampur, Hajipur, Ham- irpur, Narainpur, Gadhi Mamiir, Thana Ghazi, Partapgarh, Ajabgarh, Baldeogarh, Tahla, Khunteta, Tatarpur, Sital (now in Jaipur), Gudha (now in Jaipur), Dubbi (now in Jaipur), Sikrai (now in Jaipur), Baori Khera (now in Jaipur). The revenue yielded by this territory is said to have been six or seven lakhs. Bakhtawar Singh succeeded in s. 1847 (A.D. 1791). At that time the Marhattas, invited by Dfwau Ram Sewak, an old official of Partap Singh, came to Rajgarh, and domestic difficulties were also caused by the same offi- cial. Consequently, Ram Sewak was enticed from Rajgarh, where he resided, to Ulwur, seized and put to death by direction of Bakhtawar Singh ; after which the Marhattas went away. In s. 1850, Bakhtawar Singh went to marry the daughter of the Thakur of Hiichawan in Marwar, and visited Jaipur on his way back. He was received in a friendly way, but the Jaipur Chief soon placed him under restraint, and it is said that he did not recover his liberty until he had resigned the forts of Giidha Sainthal, Baori Khera, Dubbi, and Sikrai, all now in Jaipur territory. Soon after his accession Bakhtawar Singh occupied Kama and other parganahs of Bhartpur, on the pretext that they were part of the jAgir of his ancestor, Kalian Singh. He held, too, for a time, Bawal, Kauti, Firozpur, and Kot Putli. On the present Bhartpur border the last Khauzadas of note possessed some territory. Zulfikar Khan, the principal, had a fort known as Ghasaoli, and had opposed the Ulwur Chief. About A.D. 1800, Bakhtawar Singh, aided by the Marhattas, expelled him, destroyed the fort, and established that of Gobindgarh near to its site. " At the commencement of the Marhatta war, he accepted the pro- tection of the British Government, with whom he entered into an offensive and defensive alliance. His astute vakil, Ahmad Baksh Khan, who afterwards became Nawab of Firozpur and Luharu, joined Lord Lake, to whom he rendered valuable services in procuring supplies for the army, in sending a small force from Ulwur to co-operate with it, and especially in supplying the information of the movements of the Marhattas which led to the victory of Laswari in A.D. 1803." The field of this battle is twenty miles east of the city of Ulwur. A full account of the battle will be fouud under " Laswari." As a reward for his services the district called Rath, in the north-west of the present Ulwur territory (see Rath), Hariana, and a portion of Mewat, were conferred on Bakhtawar Singh in 1803 (see Treaties in Appendix). The British Government conferred Firozpur in Gurgaom on Ahmad Bakhsh Khan, the Vakil ; and his master, out of his own grant, gave him Luharu in Hariana, which, at Ahmad Baksh's request, was made, like Firozpur, independent of Ulwur. ( 20 ) Some months afterwards the British Government allowed Bakhtawar Singh to exchange Hariana for the present Ulwur parganas of Kathuni- bar and Sonkhar in the south-east, and Tijara and Tapokra in the north- east. The Meos of his new territory, as well as those of his old, gave him much trouble. During the war between Jaipur and Marwar regard- ing Dhonkal Singh, Bakhtawar Singh is said to have assisted to maintain order in Jaipur. He, however, interfered there in such a manner as to attract the notice of the British Government, who, in A.D. 1811, obliged him " to bind himself not to enter into negotiations or engagements with other chiefs" (see Appendix). In A.D. 1812, he took possession of Dubbf and Sakrai, which Jaipur was said to have unfairly obtained from him, but which, being Jaipur territory at the time of his connection with the British Government, it was a breach of treaty to retake. He "refused to obey the orders of the Resident at Dehli to give them up. He collected a large number of his clansmen and others to oppose the force which was sent against him, and it was not until the British force arrived within sight of Ulwur that he was persuaded by those about him to agree to surrender the forts, and to pay three lakhs of rupees on account of the expenses of the expedition. About this time Bakhtawar Singh is said to have become deranged, the principal symptom of his malady being the cruel manner in which he vented his hatred against the Mahomedans. Wherever he caught a Fakir he is said to have given him the option of performing a miracle, or of having his nose and ears cut off. It is recorded that on one occasion he sent a pot full of noses and ears to Ahmad Bakhsh Khan, who had done him such good service, but with whom he had quarrelled. He also caused many Mahomedan tombs and mosques to be desecrated, turning the latter into Hindu temples." * These proceedings caused much excitement at Dehli, the Musalmans of which desired to invade Ulwur, but they were pacified by the Resident, who strove to restrain the Ulwur chief. Bakhtawar Singh is said to have behaved well to his brethren, none of whom he deprived of j&girs, though he kept his people in order, and severely punished those who offended. Ilahf Bakhsh, son of Partap Singh's minister, Hoshdar Khan, becoming presumptuous, gave great offence to the Chief; and though he escaped, six of his people took poison and died to save their honour in the Rajgarh Fort. Besides Dfwan Rain Sewak, he put to death for treachery another official of position called Shekh Ahsanullah. Thakur Samral Singh Kilianot, an old officer of Partap Singh's, became for some years his principal minister, and received the title of Raja Bahadar.f After his death Akhe Singh Bankawat * Administration Report of Captain Cadell for 1871-72, which I have subsequently quoted a great deal, and occasionally I have quoted the preface to Aitchison's " Ulwur Treaties." t His grandson, Chinaman Singh, turned traitor in 1857, and caused the disaster of Achnera. ( 21 ) became the chief minister. Rao Har Narain Haldia, son of the traitor Daulat Ram, and grandfather of the present Fauj Bakhshi, or coramander- in-chief, and also Salig Ram and Nonid Ram, Sahawals, whose family still have a position, were officials of standing. Bakhtawar Singh died in A.D. 1815. At the time of his death the revenue of the state was about fifteen lakhs, but it was only eleven when he received the graut of territory from the British Government. Of this the new districts contributed three lakhs. They now pay more than double. After the death of Bakhtawar Singh the succession was disputed. Bakhtawar Singh, like his predecessor, had no sons of his own, but in- stead of examining all the boys of the " twelve kotrfs," after the fashion of Partap Singh, he sent for a lad named Banui Singh from his own original house of Thana, and indicated his intention of adopting him. He died before the formal ceremony was completed, but Banni Singh, then seven years old, was accepted as Raja by the Rajputs and artillery (Golanddz), headed by Akhe Singh Baukdwat, and an influential chela or household slave named Rarnii. Nawab Ahmad Bakhsh Khan, the powerful Vakil, and Salig Ram's son, backed by the three regular regiments of the army, supported the claims of an illegitimate son of the chief, named Balwant Singh, a boy of six, to share the State with Bannl Singh. Some influ- ential officials, as Har Narain and Nouid Rdm, seem to have been neutral, and when Banni Singh took his seat on the " gaddi," Balwant Singh was allowed to sit beside him on his left hand. It was said whilst they were children they should be like Ram and Lachman, and be treated as equal. The Resident at Dehli was induced to send khillats to each, " and it was arranged that the nephew should have the title, while the son exercised the power of the State. This arrangement, although sanctioned by the British Government, was never really acted upon. The affairs of the State were conducted, amidst constant squabbles, by Diwans until 1824, when a sanguinary fight took place between the rival factions, which re- sulted in victory to Banui Singh, who, with the aid of Akhe Singh, made Balwant Singh a prisoner." Ramii and Ahmad Bakhsh each tried to obtain for their respective parties the support of the Dehli Resident, " Sir David Ochterlony, who desired Banni Singh to settle a jagir of Rs. 15,000 per annum on Balwant Singh, but the young Chief declined to do so," and Balwant Singh remained a prisoner for two years. Moreover, the life of Ahmad Bakhsh was attempted while he was a guest of the Resident at Dehli. The crime was traced to the instigation of persons at the Court of Ulwur, and the chief was required to surrender them, but it was not till 1826, after the fall of Bhartpur and the advance of a British force on Ulwur, that the Chief complied." He was compelled to make "a pro- vision for Balwant Singh, partly in laud and partly in money, equivalent in value to the lands ceded to Ulwur by the British Government. Balwaut Singh died childless in 1845, when his possessions reverted to the State." " Baiini Singh had not succeeded to a peaceable inheritance. An old ( 22 ) chronicle describes his people at that time ' as singularly savage and brutal, robbers by profession, never to be reformed or subdued/ but the Chief accomplished the difficult task of bringing them into comparative order." The Meos " were the most numerous as well as the most trouble- some of his subjects, aud it was not until after the infliction of signal chas- tisement, by burning their villages and carrying off their cattle, that he succeeded in subduing them." In order to render the large turbulent villages harmless he broke them up, compelling the inhabitants to dwell on their lands in a number of little hamlets (see Raghunathgarh and Nikach). " The government of the State had previously been carried on without system, but with the assistance of Ammujau and his two brothers," able Musalman gentlemen of Dehli, whom the Chief took into his service and made Diwans "about 1838, great changes were made. The land revenue had prior to that year been levied in kind, the State often claiming half the gross produce, plus a thirteenth of the remainder, on account of the expenses of collection " (see " Rent-rates"). Payments in coin were sub- stituted, and civil and criminal courts were established; but all the reforms which were introduced brought more into the pockets of the Diwans than into the State exchequer. "About A.D. 1851, enormous peculations were brought to light. The Diwans were imprisoned, but released on payment of seven lakhs, and it was not long before they regained their former power. The accounts of 1850 show that the large sum of eleven lakhs was realised in that one year by fines imposed upon the officials." " Greatly as the ryots were oppressed during his reign of forty-two years, Banni Singh's name is cherished with the greatest reverence by the Rajputs. Even now, whenever they have any occasions for rejoicing, they exclaim, ' The days of Banni Singh have returned ! ' "Although by no means a well-educated man himself, he was a great patron of arts and letters, and attracted painters and skilled artisans from various parts of India to his service. He expended large sums of money on the collection of a fine library. For one book alone, a beautifully illuminated copy of the ' GulistanJ he paid Rs. 50,000." No tomb was " erected by his son to his memory, but he has left many splendid monuments to his name, such as a grand and extensive palace in the city, and a smaller but more beautiful one called the ' Moti DungriJ or * Banni BildsJ situated at a short distance from the town. " But his great work was the large * bandh ' or dam, built at Siliserh, ten miles from Ulwur, which forms a fine lake. Its water, brought into Ulwur by a masonry aqueduct, has changed the barren lands which pre- viously surrounded the town into a mass of luxuriant gardens. " Jealous of power, fond of state and ceremony, anxious to be just without sacrificing what he considered his interest at the shrine of justice ; at times generous to excess, at others niggardly; kindly dispositioned, but occasionally cruel, he was, on the whole, an excellent type of a good ( 23 ) Native Chief of the past generation. His good deeds are remembered and his bad ones forgotten by the people, though some of the bad were bad enough. " During the last five years of his life he suffered from paralysis, and was unable to exert the same control over affairs as previously, and the Diwans, in consequence, exercised almost uncontrolled power in the State. " Before his death he had an opportunity of proving his loyalty to the British Government. Bedridden as he was, he selected the flower of his army, and despatched a force consisting of about 800 infantry, 400 cavalry, and four guns, to the assistance of the beleaguered garrison at Agra. The cavalry, among whom was the ' Khds ChaukiJ or Chief's per- sonal guard, were all Rajputs the remainder principally Mahomedans. " The Ni'mach and Nasirabad brigade of mutineers came upon them at Achnera, on the road between Bhartpur and Agra. Deserted by their leader and the Mahomedan portion of the force, including the artillery, the Rajputs suffered a severe defeat, leaving on the field fifty-five men, among whom were ten Sardars of note, whose heirs subsequently received khillats from Government. The old Chief was on the point of death when tidings of the disaster reached Ulwur ; but his reason had fled, and he was spared the sorrowful news. The last order he is said to have given in writing he having lost the use of his tongue was that a lakh of rupees should be sent down from the fort and sent out to his small force." The traitorous leader on this occasion was Raja Bahadur Chimman Singh, grandson of Samrat Singh Kalianot, mentioned above as a servant of Partap Singh. He is said to have been connected by marriage with some of the mutineers. Ramu, the faithful old chela, died in 1825. His son Mulla had established a great influence over the young Chief, and, on the whole, this influence was used for good, for he was kept under restraint, and com- pelled to acquire some education. But Mulla treated him sometimes with such indignity as to excite the anger of the Rajputs, and at last Akhe Singh had Mulla murdered, to the extreme grief and displeasure of Banui Singh, who expelled Akhe Singh from Ulwur. Banni Singh died in August 1857, and his only surviving son, Sheodau Singh, a boy of twelve, succeeded. The administration was in the hands of the Dehli Diwans, who also had acquired a great influence over the young Maharao Raja, and their position and conduct gave deadly offence to the Rajputs. The Chief adopted the Mahomedan style of dress and speech, and made no secret of his preference for the foreigners. At last, in August 1858, the discontent culminated in an insurrection of the Rajputs, and the Diwaus barely escaped with their lives. Captain Nixon, Political Agent of Bhartpur, immediately proceeded to Ulwur. He was met on the border by a body of Rajputs, headed by Thakur Lakdfr Singh of Bijwiir, who, though he had approved the emeute, had done his best to moderate the proceedings of the insurgents. ( 24 ) Captain Nixon found the Chief " in an anguish of rage " with his brethren the Rajputs, whose action was held to have been the consequence of great provocation, and a Council of Administration was appointed, under the presidentship of Thakur Lakdir Singh. Captain Impey was appointed Political Agent of Ulwur in November 1858. The Dehli Diwans, notwithstanding their reputation as adminis- trators, had failed at least latterly to maintain order, and Captain Impey found every department in utter confusion, and all his energy and persistency were necessary for the arrangement of affairs. " He had numerous difficulties to encounter in accomplishing this task," and the young Chief, in spite of his youth, thwarted him to the utmost. " The Council of Regency, formed by Captain Nixon immediately after the expulsion of the Musalmaus, did not work well, and was abolished by Captain Impey, who, after the crisis in 1859, managed for a short time without a Council. A new Council, consisting of five Thakurs, was constituted ; but in 1860, to borrow Captain Impey's words, ' its corruption had reached such a pitch as to frustrate every hope for even a decent administration.' Another Council was, therefore, formed, consisting of Thakur Lakdir Singh as president, and Thakur Nandji and Pundit Riip Narain as members. This Council carried on its duties in a most satisfactory manner until the Maharao Raja was invested with power on the 14th September 1863." Captain Impey left Ulwur about that time, and the Political Agency was shortly after removed. Subsequently, and until 1869, the Governor-General's agent for Rajputdna himself conducted the political business of the British Government with the Ulwur Darbar. Under Captain Impey's direction justice was well administered, and many other improvements were introduced. Information regarding the three-year settlement of the Laud Revenue and the subsequent ten-year settlement made by Captain Impey will be found in Appendix IV. This was his most durable administrative work. Important public buildings were constructed by him, of which a very fine and useful tank, a handsome and commodious court-house, and some important roads, were the principal. When the Maharaja attained to power, Lakdir Singh, whom the Chief deprived of one of his villages, left the State, and resided at Jaipur and Ajmir. In 1866 he invaded Ulwur with a body of fol- lowers, but he met with little success, and had to retire. The Govern- ment of India strongly disapproved his conduct, but, in consideration of the provocation he had met with, and of his previous services, which had been very considerable, an income was secured to him. Contrary to the wishes of the Government of India, the expelled Diwans were permitted to interfere greatly in the affairs of Ulwur, where they continued to appoint many officials, and from which they drew a large income. Captain Impey had left more than twenty lakhs in the treasury, but this was soon squandered ; and to raise money, salaries were greatly ( 25 ) reduced, and grants of various kiuds, loug enjoyed by their holders, were resumed. Several corps of Musalmans were raised. Fifteen out of eighteen troops of the cavalry which had been employed for generations, and the Kh&s C/iauki, or bodyguard, were disbanded ; and in February 1870 another insurrection broke out. Captain James Blair was then Political Agent of the " Eastern States," in which Ulwur had in 1869 been included. But shortly after the insurrection had begun, though not before he had exerted himself greatly to repress it, Captain Blair died, and Captain T. Cadell, V.C., was appointed to the Eastern States of Rajputana in his place. He was unable to effect a reconciliation between the Chief and the insurgent Thakurs, because the former would not concede anything; and at length the Government of India appointed a Council under the presidency of the Political Agent, who then, December 1870, became Political Agent of Ulwur, which was separated from the Eastern States. The Raja was to have a seat at the Board, but not to have the power of vetoing its decisions or interfering in the executive. The members of the Council were four Nariika Thakurs and a Brah- man, as follows: Thakur Lakbdir Singh of BijwAr, \ Tbakur Mabtab Singh of Khora, > Of the twelve kotrfs of Kalian Singb. Thakur Hardeo Singh of Thana, ) Thakur Mangal Singh of Garhi, Dasawat Naruka. Pandit JElup Narain, who was before in the Council under Captain Impey. A fixed allowance was settled on the Maharaja, and an establishment allotted to him. The new levies were paid up and disbanded, the re- sumed grants were, with the sanction of Government, for the most part restored, administrative reforms (detailed in the statistical part) were en- tered on, and order was entirely established. Captain Cadell proposed that as Captain Impey's last Land Revenue Settlement was about to expire, a regular settlement should be made, and for this purpose an officer was appointed on January 1, 1872. In April 1874, Major Cadell went on furlough, and Captain Powlett officiated for him until he came back in December 1875. On the 14th September 1875, the railroad from Dehli to Ulwur was opened. The Maharaja entertained on the occasion a number of European residents of Dehli. On the 6th of December, the portion between Ulwur and Bandikui on the main Rajputana line was opened. On the llth October, Maharao Raja Sheodan Singh, who had long been in weak health, died of brain affections a few days after his twenty- ninth birthday. His funeral took place the same day. No disturbance or popular excitement followed the death of the Chief; and as he left no legitimate issue, inquiries were requisite for the determination of the succession. ( 26 ) It was necessary that the new Chief should be selected from one of the Naruka families, called, as already set forth, the " Bdrah Kotri" of Kalian Singh. These families were not unanimous. One party wished to be guided by the family precedent established by Partap Singh, namely, selection of the best candidate ; one by the precedent of taking a boy from Thana, which, as above told, had already supplied two Chiefs ; while a third de- sired that nearness of kin should outweigh family precedent. The only widow was a minor, and the late Chiefs mother showed at first some vacillation. Eventually the Government directed that the claims of the two pro- minent candidates, Lakhdir Singh of Bijwar and Mangal Singh of Thana, be referred to the " Barah Kotri," and accordingly the reference was made on the 22d November 1874. A majority was in favour of Mangal Singh, who was, therefore, recognised and confirmed as Ruler of Ulwur by His Excellency the Viceroy. Maharao Raja Maugal Singh took his seat on the " Cushion " on the 14th December, a month after he had completed his fifteenth year. The officials and the great majority of the j&gird&rs cordially accepted the new Chief; but Lakhdir Singh and his supporters of the " Barah Kotri," together with one other jdgirddr of position, would not tender their allegiance ; and after every effort had been made to induce them to give way, and to present the customary " nazar," their j&girs were, on the 25th February 1875, taken under management by the Darbdr, and a portion of them sequestrated. Lakhdir Singh was ordered to proceed to Ajmir, and there to reside. The other recusant Thakurs accompanied him con- trary to orders, but were not permitted to remain at Ajmir. The resisting jdgird&rs were in number less than one-seventh of the whole jdgirddr body, and their estates were less than one-sixth of the total jdgir lands. Pandit Manphul, C.S.I., was appointed guardian to the Chief, and en- tered on his duties in March 1876. The Council of Management had been established at a time and under circumstances which necessitated exceptional arrangements. Reforms were then urgently needed, opposition in every way was expected, and it was essential that the administration should be strong enough to remove promptly all obstructions. With the death of the late Chief the necessity for special executive force disappeared, and by direction of Government, the Political Agent withdrew a good deal of the direction and interference which were formerly found necessary. This change was rendered easy by the system and order which Major Cadell, with the assistance of the Council, had established in every department, some details of which are mentioned in Part II. PART II. CHAPTER I. GENERAL DESCRIPTION. THE Naruka Rajput State of Ulwur is situated between 27 5' and 28 15' latitude, and between 76 10' and 77 15' longitude. Its area I ' "*" is, according to maps of topographical survey of India, 3024 square miles, and its population, according to a census taken in 1872, was 778,596. It is bounded on the north by the British district of Gurgaom, the Bdwal pargana of the Sikh State Nabha, and the Kot Kdsira pargana of Jaipur ; on the east by Bhartpur and Gurgaom ; on the south by Jaipur ; on the west by Jaipur, Kot Putli, Nabha, and Patiala territory. The whole boundary between Ulwur and Jaipur was determined and the line duly mapped by Captain Abbott, Assistant Agent Boundary Governor- General in the years 1869, 1870, 1871, 1872. He <*iemeut. also set up the boundary pillars on this border in the three following years.* In February 1873 the Assistant Settlement Officer of Gurgaom decided two of the boundary disputes on the Nabha border ;f and in 1874-75 Lieutenant Massy, Assistant Commissioner, Panjab, laid down the Patiala and Ulwur border line, and decided the remaining disputed boundaries on the Nabha border. In 1853-54 Captain Morrison fixed the Bhartpur and Ulwur boun- daries. The boundary where disputes existed between Ulwur and British territory was determined by the British Settlement Officers of Ulwur and Gurgaom between 1872 and 1876. The settlement maps of Ulwur villages situated on its border show the boundary accurately. Ulwur, situated near the centre of the State, is the chief Chief town, town. It is described elsewhere. * In March 1868 the disputed boundary between village Paoti of Nabha and villages Caduwds, Siaka Ndngal, and Ajerika of Ulwur was settled with the consent of the Ulwur Durbar by the Commissioner of Amballah. t Partap-pur Ulwur v. Girdhapur Nabha. ( 28 ) Ridges of hills, for the most part parallel, and lying generally from north to south, are a feature observable throughout the whole State. To the east and north there are few ranges, and those low, narrow, short, or often broken, and usually far apart, in single or at most double lines. The border hills to the north-east are, however, an exception. These are continuous, and often broad for many miles. Still the country to the north and east is generally open. I have mentioned that the city of Ulwur is situated near the centre of the State. Due south of it, on the border, lies Rajgarh, the second town in the territory. Between these two points the country is for the most part level. But west and north-west of a line joining them are a succes- sion of fine hills, the nearest ranges of which lie somewhat irregularly, almost in masses, for the valleys between are generally narrow. The remoter are divided by wider valleys, which, to the south-west, are very rich. To the north and west of the State, the soil is generally very light, but, except in parts on the western border, it does not form drift sand- heaps like those of Shekhawati. To the east there is much rich flooded land, but where water does not lie the soil is usually light. To the south the soil is generally pretty good. The ranges of the hilly region do not much abound in peaks or taper- ing masses, though these are to be seen in some places. Variation in the height of parts of the same 'range is generally gradual, but the hills are usually rocky, precipitous, and rather difficult to cross, even for a man on foot. Sometimes they form a high tableland, where much grass grows. The highest points are between 1900 and 2400 feet above sea- level.* A geological sketch describing the character of these hills will be found in an Appendix. The trees and shrubs which abound on their slopes and level tops are chiefly dhauk and sdlar. Game is plentiful in the hilly tract ; the scenery is often bold and striking ; and charming well-wooded nooks are frequently met with where springs flow in secluded dells. The rivers and chief streams are the Sabi, the Riiparel, the Chiihar Rivers and Sidh, the Lindwah, the Partabgarh and the Ajabgarh. The streams. g^j forms for sixteen miles the western boundary of the Ulwur territory. Joined by the Sota, it cuts off the north-west corner of the State, divides a part of Bdwal, which is Ndbha territory, from Ulwur, and Bhdngarh Point, f miles north of Bhdngarh, . . . .2128 feet. Kdnkwdri Point, l miles north-east of Kankwari Fort, . . . 2214 Sirawds Point, l miles south-west of Sfrawds, .... 2131 Ulwur Fort, . . . . . . . . 1960 Bhurasidh Point, 1 mile west of Infantry Lines, .... 1927 Bandrol Point, near Jaipur border (overlooks pass between Ghazi ka Thdnu and Bairdt), 1 mile south of Bdndrol, .... 2307 Bhardich, on Jaipur border, mile west of Bhardich, . . . 2390 Birpur (overlooks pass between Deoti and Tahla), .... 2048 ( 29 ) flows into the Jaipur pargana of Kot Kasim. It is by far the largest of the streams in Ulwur, from which it receives many contributions, and it carries the drainage of Northern Jaipur ; but its banks are high, its bed too sandy for cultivation, and, unlike the other streams, it confers no benefit on agriculture, while its floods endanger Rewari, in British terri- tory, to the north. It cuts away good land, which sometimes leaves the brickwork of wells standing like towers in the river-bed, and its alluvial deposit is scarcely fit for tillage. It dries up after the rains. A fine rail- way iron bridge resting on masonry piers crosses it just beyond the Ulwur border (see " Railway"). The Ruparel and Chiihar Sidh are the chief drains of the hills west and south of Ulwur city. Both are most valuable irrigation channels, and both flow in an easterly direction. The Ruparel (often known as the Barah) has almost always a flow of water, the Chuhar Sidh only after rains (see "Irrigation"). Near the sources of the Chuhar Sidh is a famous shrine (see " Shrines"), and on one branch of the Ruparel is the lake of Siliserh. The Lindwah carries the water which flows from part of the north- eastern hills. It has in parts a broad bed. Its stream through twelve or fifteen miles of its course runs southward, then divides, and turning eastward, enters into British territory. It is of much value for irrigation purposes, but its flow ceases in the hot mouths. From the Tahla Ajabgarh and Partdbgarh parganas to the south-west of the State considerable streams flow into Jaipur territory, where they join the Banganga. Of these, the Partdbgarh and Ajabgarh nallahs usually flow even in the hot weather. In the west a nallah of some size, best known as the Narainpur, flows northwards into the Sdbi, but it is dry after the rains. The lakelets of Siliserh and Deoti are the only ones Lakea. in the State. Siliserh is formed by a dam nearly 40 feet high, and nearly 1000 feet long, thrown across an affluent of the Ruparel by Maharao Raja Banni Singh about A.D. 1844. It is nine miles south-west of the city, and to an aqueduct which brings its waters to Ulwur is due the beauty of the environs (see " City " and " Irrigation "). The lake, when full, is more than a mile in length, and about 400 yards in average width. A small convenient palace is situated on the rocks above it, and it abounds with fish. Boats are kept on the lake. Much game is to be found in its neighbourhood, which, in point of scenery, has attractions. All this, added to the fact of its being within easy reach of Ulwur city, makes it a favourite resort of pleasure parties. The Deoti lake is close to the Jaipur border, nearly due south of Ulwur. The dam which forms it was built by a Chief of Jaipur. It is remarkable for the number of wild-fowl which frequent it, and also for the water-snakes, which renders the little palace which stands in its midst uninhabitable. It is rather smaller than Siliserh, shallow, and often entirely dry in hot weather. Other streams are dammed with a view to cultivation, but as the water is only retained for a short time, they will be more properly described under " Irrigation." There are also a few permanent tanks (see Talao, Rajgarh, Ajabgarh, Baghera). Fish are preserved in the Siliserh lake, and at two or three points on the Riiparel for the benefit of the Darbar, and in some of the tanks from religious motives. At Deoti and elsewhere there is no restriction on catching them. The Darbar employs four or five persons, Maliyas a Musalman caste and Kahars, in protecting and catch- ing fish and wild-fowl. There is no class of fishermen now, the nets of the Kahdrs, who caught and sold fish, having been confiscated many years ago. The Raj fishermen, however, usually poach pretty freely, and sell the fish in the bazaar. The fish are caught with cast and drag nets, and by spearing or by rod and line ; the water-fowl by a net so set that it can be jerked over them when they come near it. The best description is the Rahu (Labeo Rohita), which has long been held in high estimation.* Murdk and kaldnat, large kinds, are good. Scl (large) and soli (small) are liked by natives. Chdlwa are the little fish served on skewers at breakfast tables. Pariya and bdrcas are large and inferior fish. Temara and sdnka, both small and very bony. Singi (small) and ker (large) are both indigestible. The best fish are found in Siliserh and the Barah. only. Pariya, sol, and soli, are the commonest, especially pariya. f In Deoti there are only the little fish said to come with the rains. Alligators (Gau) are found in Siliserh and the Barah; they grow to six or seven feet, and destroy many fish. They also kill goats and donkeys, and occasionally ponies. * See Elliot's Mus. Hist., vol. vi. p. 352. t Dr Ffrench Mullen, Agency Surgeon, has kindly furnished me with the following list of fish found in Ulwur : Native Names. Family. Sub-Family. Genus. Species. BiSwas. Cyprinidae. Cyprininas. Catla. Catla Buchanan!. No. 195 of Dr. Day's Report on the Fish of India. Chflwa. Do. Do. Aspidoparia. As. Morar. No. 267 do. Kirh or Ker. Not identified Murik. Do. Pariya or Pad v J TT , . , offered in temples. Harwngar ) Kirna (Wrightia tinctoria). Long pods yielding juice, put in milk to thicken it. Sword scabbards made from wood. Karidla or Amaltds (Cassia fistula). Gurjen. A light pretty wood, sometimes used fur furniture. ( 32 ) Bandsa. Ddsd. Used in Ledges. A tan or Zarkher. Its fruit eaten by poor. Kikar (Acacia arabica). Another name for bdbul. Komblier. Sarangis (a musical instrument), &c., made from it. Aonla (Phythanthus emblica). Dolia. Shrub, with alternate spikate shoots, bearing small ovate alternate leaves. Bahera. Harh (medicinal). Tendu (Diospyros inelanoxylon). Furnishes ebony. Chonkar or Kejra (Prosopis spicigera). Gajrend. A fig ; leaves like " bargat," and with similar habits. It is equal to " binola" as a food for cattle. Simal (Bombyx). Cotton-tree. Monkeys eat the flowers before they open ; " musla " (as roots are called) much used in medicine. un. A large tree. Hingot (Balanites Roxburghii). Gular (Ficus virgata). Ganger, the Chabeni of Karaull (Grewia populifolia). Leaves alternate ; some- thing like young ilex. Has a drupe which tastes like a hip ; makes good walking-sticks. Jdman (Syzygium jambolanum). Aila. Root and bark and fruit used in medicine. Aria. Has a very acid seed in a pod. (Low tree.) Kdld Kurd. Do. Kadam (Anthocephalus or Nauclea kadamba). Jiwapot. Rosaries made from its berries. Ber (Zizyphus hortensis). Pdpri (Pongamia glabra [?] ). Gugal (Balsamodendron mukul). Furnishes gum (Bdellium or myrrh), offered at " dhiip " to Thakur, i.e., at 9 A.M., to Sri Khrishan. JJidl. Green branched, prickly. Moria or ) Umra } ^ ar S e ^ eave d handsome shrub, in damp valley. Papar. \ V , f Bushes. Kadam. ) Kdkond. A tree. Jinger. Small tree, like Kachinar. Guldr. Handsome large-leaved shrub. Komher. Large pipal-shaped leaves ; wood excellent for furniture. Ill the plains the following trees are the commonest : Khejra. Jent (Sesbania). Khair. Nim (Melia indica). Kikar (Acacia arabia). Very numerous. Pipal. Fig. ( 33 ) Bargat. Fig. Jhdl (Salvadora). Fardsh (Tamarisk). Skis/tarn (Dalbergia). Ruhera (Tecoma). fttu (Salvadora). Am (Mango). Imli (Tamarind). Senjna (Moringa). Ber (Zizyphus jujuba). The most valuable of the abundant trees are : Kikar. For its timber (which is that chiefly used by the Darbar) ; its pods and its bark used in dyeing and in distilling spirit. Dhank and ) Vtil f Used for charcoal mostly. (See Mines and Quarries.) Bamboos. Much used for Raj purposes, and produces a revenue of Rs. 3000 besides. They are inferior to the imported bamboo. Palms. Used for pankahs, fruit, and mats; yields a trifling sum to Raj. Toddy is not produced. Dhdk or ) _ Chila I k eaves universa " v used as platters ; bring a small revenue. Lac. Brings a revenue of about Rs. 300. The contract is sold annually. It is chiefly produced on pipal-trees. That on others is of an inferior quality. Of shrubs, the Ber bushes ("pala ") are the commonest and most valuable! especially in light soils. " Arusa," which grows in rocky raviny ground, makes the best charcoal for gunpowder, but it is not conserved. The Ak (Calatropis) is seen everywhere, but its strong fibre and soft down is scarcely utilised. Khimp, found in light wastes, is used for ropes, baskets, and food. The best wild vetch, especially abundant in the Tijara hills, is the Saneji. It is said to be as good as cultivated pulse for goats and camels. It has ternate opposite leaves, and roundish two-seeded ventrous pods, very numerous in the axiles of the leaves. A creeper called Gilor is spoken of as a valuable medicinal herb ; and another, called Machechi, is valued for its esculent flowers. GRASSES. Pula (the high jungle grass). Collected from grass preserves in large quantities. Surwdld. Spear grass ; the commonest grass in the hills and plains. Serin. ) ,' ( Common in hills ; inferior to Surwdld. Bagder. ) Ba.ru. The large reed-like looking grass. Jaranga. Better than Surwdld ; often seen on field borders where there is much water ; grows four feet high. Aryan. " Matmard " is the villagers' name for it. QandhU. ) T , f See Karauli Gazetteer. Lamp. ) Kdns. The well-known land-impoverishing grass. E f The rich grass of lawns. Ddb or Dab. Bharut. The prickly-husked grass. See " Bikanfr Gazetteer." It is little used for humau food in Ulwur. CMnt, Labdan, Phulan, Are other grasses. Sarwdli, Guwdn, Mota (?), Sawank (Panicum colonum), Makara (Dactyloctenium Egyptiacum), are, I believe, the grasses the seeds of which are chiefly eaten by the people in times of scarcity. Bathiia and Dub are the principal wild vegetables of the early part of the year, and Panwdr, Choldi, Lohsua after the rains. Tigers (ndhar) abound in the hilly tract, and many are killed every year within a space a few miles square by the Chief and Wild animals. ' -i , , , European sportsmen. Panthers, both the large and the small kind (" tendua" and " b&ghera "), are also numerous in the same hills, but they are found almost everywhere, and frequent the gardens round the city. Many S&mbhar roam over the hilly tract, as well as nilg&i, which are also found on the plains to the north. Pig were formerly numerous all over the State, but Maharaja Sheodan Singh allowed the villagers to kill them, and at present there are comparatively few. Antelopes are to be found everywhere. Of small game, hares, quail, and partridges (black and brown), are numerous ; ducks are found on the nallahs and lakes, especially on -the Deoti, where they are caught in nets while resting on the banks at night. Coolan and geese, too, frequent the nallahs. Throughout the country the common peafowl is the most conspicuous bird, as elsewhere in Rajputaua. It is said that a white variety is sometimes met with. The sdras (Grus antigone) adorns almost every cornfield in the cold weather, and is respected by Hindu and Musalman. The male and female are said to be as attached to each other as the chakrvd and cliakwi. The following is a list of wild animals, furnished by Khawas Sheo Bakhsh, Superintendent of the Raj preserves : Sher or Ndliar (tiger). Tendtid (large panther). Believed by natives to be a cross between the panther and tigress. Baghera (smaller panther). Lidli or Bedido (wolf). Jarak (hyena), on which Ddkans or witches are said to ride. Sheo Bakhsh says one was caught at Ulwur with nose bored for strings. Ghantdli (a small deer shot near water in hot weather). Sdmbhar. ( 35 ) Roz (female nilgai). Nil (male nilgai). Ilaran (antelope). Chikdra (ravine deer). Suar (pig). When twelve years old believed invulnerable to bullets. Kharyosh (common hare). Dhim Khargosh (small kind of hare). Seh (porcupine). It is said that if a porcupine quill be stuck in a door, the house- hold will quarrel till it is removed. Si&l or GdJrd (jackal). Said to have in its head what is called a SiijAl Singhi \ if a person keeps this about him he is invulnerable. Lonkti or Phokri (fox). If it barks in the months Kdrtik, Mangsar, Pos, and Mdgh, there will be rain in Asarh, Sawan, Bhadon, Kuwar. This animal is much observed for omens. Bijti (civet cat). Badger according to Jerdon. Buck (badger). Mashak bildi (wild cat). Sdla (ant-eater). Sheo Bakhsh has seen it lying sucking up ants which had col- lected or were passing. Jal mama (otter). Siyah gosh (lynx). Newal (mungoose). Jatkar (mungoose, large kind). Ghora Go (a lizard about two feet long, from the skin of which shoes, scabbard covering, &c., are made, especially by the poor). Gadar bildo (wild cat). Langur (monkey). Said to love its young to such an extent that it preserves and fondles their bodies for six months after death. Chamgidar (flying-foxes). Mischievous in gardens. They hang in great num- bers upon the trees near the city palace. BIRDS. Bdn MurgJd (spurred partridges). Titar (partridges). Kal Titar (black partridges). Lawd (a species of quail, said to be not a bird of passage). Gilji Lawd (button quail). Eater (the common quail, which is a bird of passage). Gdgar Bater (a quail). Mor (peacock). Safed Mor (white peacock, some towards Hajipur and Hamirpur). Bat Bal (golden plover or grouse). Kulang (never seen on ground. Caught with hawks. The common crane, not what Europeans call coolan*). Bdtia (a water-fowl). Kltarkara (a bird of passage). * Jerdon, vol. iii. p. 664. ( 3G ) Kurddntli (curlew). Kuchd. Hariydl (green pigeon). Tukdar (bird of passage). Chardj (conies in rains). Kurbdn or Barsalli. Tola Laibrl (parrot). Tola Tuyan (do.) Bubbul. Kanara. Baiya (weaver bird). Ulu (owl, called Rdt ka Raja). Kochri (night bird). Maldri. Kohil. Papaya. Siyam Chiri. Doban Chiri. Kanjan (said to have a feather in its head which renders one who gets it invi- sible, and in the month of Sawan it is itself invisible). I (said to pick bits of meat out of a timer's mouth when it is asleep). Banddni ) Tintori (said to chirp above a tiger as the latter moves along). Fish and alligators have already been spoken of under " Lakes." CHAPTEE II. CENSUS. BY direction of Major Cadell, Political Agent, and the Council, a census of the whole population was taken on April 10, 1872. Efforts were made to secure reliable results. The total population was returned as 778,596, which gives an average of about 260 to the square mile. The figures showing cultivators, non-cultivators, shops, and houses will be found in the statement on page 50. Of the fiscal divisions there mentioned, Tijara, Kishengarh, Manddwar, and Bahror are the northern. South of them come Govind- Fiscal garh, Ramgarh, Ulwur, and Bdnsur. On the southern border divisions, are Katambar, Lachmangarh, Rajgarh, and Thana Ghdzi. For further particulars see " Divisions and Subdivisions." There is no pastoral people without settled homes in the State. The Meos are numerically the first race in the State, and the agricul- tural portion of them is considerably more than double any other class of cultivators except Chumars. They occupy about half the Ulwur territory, and the portion they dwell in lies to the north and east (see Mewdt). They are divided into fifty-two clans, of which the twelve largest are called " Pals," and the smaller " Gots." Many of these are not settled in Ulwur, but would be found in Mathra, Bhartpur, and Gurgaom. These clans contend much with one another, but the members of a clan sometimes unite to assist one of their number when in danger of being crushed by a fine, or to recover a village lost to the clan by a want of thrift. Of the 448 villages belonging to the Meos, the Ghaseria clan holds 112; the Dhingal, 70; the Landdwat, 64; the Nai, 63; the Singal, 54; the Dulot, 53 ; the Pundlot, 22. It has already been set forth in the historical sketch that the Meos for they no doubt are often included under the term Mewatti were, during the Mahomedan period of power, always notorious for their turbulence and predatory habits ; however, since their complete subjection by Bakhtdwar Singh and Banni Singh, who broke up the large turbulent villages into a number of small hamlets, they have become generally well behaved ; but they return to their former habits when opportunity occurs. 356120 ( 38 ) lu 1857 they assembled, burnt State ricks, carried off cattle, &c., but dd not succeed in plundering any town or village in Ulwur. In British territory they plundered Firozpur and other villages, and when a British force came to restore order many were hanged. Though Meos claim to be of Rajput origin, there are grounds for believ- ing that many spring from the same stock as the Minds. The similarity between the words Meo and Mind suggest that the former may be a con- traction of the latter. Several of the respective clans are identical in name (Singal, Nai, Dulot, Pimdalot, Dingal, Balot) ; and a story told of one Daria Meo, and his lady-love, Sisbadani Mini, seems to show that they formerly intermarried. In Bolandshahr a caste called Meo Miuds is spoken of in the Settlement Report, which would seem further to con- nect the two. However, it is probable enough that apostate Rajputs and bastard sons of Rajputs founded many of the clans, as the legends tell. The Meos are now all Musalmans in name ; but their village deities (see Religion) are the same as those of Hindu Zamindars. They keep, too, several Hindu festivals. Thus the Holi is with Meos a season of rough play, and is considered as important a festival as the Muharram, Id, and Shabibardt ; and they likewise observe the Janam ashtmi, Dasehra, and Diwdli. They often keep Brahmin priests to write the pili ckitthi, or note fixing the date of a marriage. They call themselves by Hindu names, with the exception of " Ram ; " and " Singh " is a frequent affix, though not so common as " Khdu." On the Amdnas, or monthly conjunction of the sun and moon, Meos, in common with Hindu Ahirs, Gujars, &c., cease from labour; and when they make a well, the first proceeding is to erect a " Ckabutra" to " Bairtiji" or " Hanumdn" However, when plunder was to be obtained, they have often shown little respect for Hindu shrines and temples ; and when the sanctity of a threatened place has been urged, the retort has been " Turn to Deo, Ham Meo!" You may be a Deo {God}, but I am a Meo! As regards their own religion, Meos are very ignorant. Few know the Kalima, and fewer still the regular prayers, the seasons of which they en- tirely neglect. This, however, only applies to Ulwur territory; in British, the effect of the schools is to make them more observant of religious duties. Indeed, in Ulwur, at certain places where there are mosques, religious observances are better maintained, and some know the Kalima, say their prayers, and would like a school. Meos do not marry in their own Pal or clan, but they are lax about forming connections with women of other castes, whose children they re- ceive into the Meo community. On their marriage Rs. 200 is thought a respectable sum to spend, that is to say, Rs. 130 on betrothal (" Sagai ") and Rs. 70 on marriage. They sometimes dower their daughters handsomely, and sometimes make money by them. Indeed, they often tell one that they have sold their daughters to pay their debts. ( 39 ) As already stated, Brahmins take part in the formalities preceding a marriage, but the ceremony itself is performed by the Kazi, who receives a fee of about Rs. 1-4 and 8 seers of rice. The rite of circumcision is performed by the village barber (Nai) and the village Fakir,* who also guards a new grave for some days till the ground has become too hard for animals to disturb. As agriculturists, Meos are inferior to their Hindu neighbours. The point in which they chiefly fail is in working their wells, for which they lack patience. Their women, whom they do not confine, will, it is said, do more field- work than the men ; indeed one often finds women at work in the crops when the men are lying down. Like the women of low Hindu castes they tattoo their bodies, a practice disapproved by Musalmans in general. Meos are generally poor and live badly ; they have no scruples about getting drunk when opportunity offers. The men wear the dhoti and kamrij and not pdejamas. Their dress is, in fact, Hindu. The men often wear gold ornaments, but I believe the women are seldom or never allowed to have them. The Rajputs of Ulwur, though the ruling class, do not form a twentieth of the population of the state. Those who are jdgirdars will be spoken of under " Aristocracy." The remainder, which form the mass, are laud proprietors, cultivators, and in the service of the State, chiefly in the army. About one-seventh of the whole are Musal- mans. The Hindu Rajputs are to the north Chauham, to the west Shek- hawats, to the south-west Rajawat, elsewhere chiefly Naruka. Their origin is treated of under " Aristocracy." They are bad cultivators, and do not work with their own hands until compelled by the direst necessity. It is, however, a mistake to suppose that the proudest families do not eventually yield to circumstances by putting the hand to the plough. Instances of king-descended Rajputs tilling with their own hands could be found all over Rajpiitana, The Musalman Rajputs differ from their Hindu brethren in being more ready to take service out of Ulwnr. They maintain their old marriage rules so far as not to ally themselves with families of their own clan ; and they seek their wives from, and give their daughters to, Musalman Rajputs of Hariana and elsewhere. They are regarded as distinct from Khanzadas, who, though of Rajput origin, have intermarried with several Musalman tribes. Of Khanzadas, the old rulers of Mewdt, much has been already said in the historical sketch. I will add something regarding their present condition and their origin, though, as the figures show, they are numerically insignificant, and they cannot now be . * Fakirs are of various races ; they are usually " Mudarias," or attendants of. shrines ; they make the solars, or flags of the Saint Saiyad Masaud. reckoned among the aristocracy. In social rank they are far above the Meos, and though probably of more recent Hindu extraction, they are better Musalmans. They observe no Hindu festivals, and will not acknow- ledge that they pay any respect to Hindu shrines. But Brahmins take part in their marriage contracts, and they observe some Hindu marriage cere- monies. Though generally as poor and ignorant as the Meos, they, unlike the latter, say their prayers, and do not let their women work in the fields. They are not first-rate agriculturists, the seclusion of their women giving them a disadvantage beside most other castes. No Khanzadas now hold any "j&gir" or rent-free village in the Ulwur state. Some have emigrated eastward and taken to trade in the Gangetic cities, but these have no connection now with the original Khanzada country. Those who have not abandoned the traditions of their clan are often glad of military service, and about fifty are in British regiments. In the service of the Ulwur state there are many (see "Army"). Of these Dull Khan, who commands the Khass regiment, is the leading man, and entitled to an honourable reception in Darbar. The Shahabad family (see Shahabad) have a fort commandantship, and supply thirty- five horsemen on fixed pay for the state service. In Tijara (see Tijara Tahsil) there is a Khanzada chaudri. There are twenty-six Khanzada villages in the state, in most of which the pro- prietors themselves work in the fields and follow the plough.* I do not know of any other settlements out of Mewat. What was said of the Khanzadas in the historical sketch was based on the Persian histories, the most reliable sources of information. But the Khanzadas produce family histories and genealogies of their own, on which, however, much dependence cannot be placed ; for they do not bear the test of comparison with the Persian histories. According to these family tradi- tions, one Adhan Pal, fourth in descent from Taman Pal, Jadii chief of Biana (see Karauli Gazetteer) established himself on the hills separating Tijara and Firozpur (Gurgaon), at a spot called Durala, of which the ruins still are to be seen. Thence he was driven to Sarehta, a few miles to the north in the same hills, where there are considerable remains (see Sarehta) ; and his grandson Lakhan Pal became, in the time of Firoz Shah, a Musalman, and established himself at Kptala. He held all Mewat, and even districts beyond its limits. His sons and grandsons settled in the principal places, and it is said that 1484 towns and villages (kheras) were under their sway, in some of which tombs and ruins exist which are said to have belonged to them. The term Khanzada is probably derived from Khanazad, for it appears that Bahadar Nahar, the first of the race mentioned in the Persian his- tories, associated himself with the turbulent slaves of Firoz Shah after the death of the latter, and, being a pervert, would contemptuously receive the * Shahabad and Marakpur are the principal name of Khdnazdd (slave) from his brethren. The Khanzadas themselves indignantly repudiate this derivation, and say the word is Khan Jadu (or Lord Jadu), and was intended to render still nobler the name of the princely Rajput race from which they came.* About half the Brahmins are agriculturists. The principal Brahmin sub-tribe in Ulwur is the Gor. The great divisions of the Gor sub-tribe are shown below. Saraswat. Found in Ulwur. Kankubjl. Do. Maithil. Do. Gor. The most numerous caste in Ulwur. UtkaL None in Ulwur. Tailang. None in Uiwur. Maharashtra. Do. Karnatik. Do. The five Gors. The five Darawars. Darawar. Found in Ulwur. Gurja. Do. The first five are the Brahmins of the North of India, the second those of the South, the Narbadda forming the boundary between. The five Gors, as regards eating and intermarriage, keep entirely aloof the one from the other. The first four Dhardwars eat together, but do not intermarry. The Gurjas (or Gujardtis) keep apart from all. There are fifty-nine gotrs or sections of these ten great divisions, of which six gotrs belong to the Gor division already mentioned as the most important in Ulwur. The six gotrs of Gors are as follows : The Adh Gor is the name of the most numerous gotr in Ulwur; the Sanawar, the second most numerous ; the Giijar Gor ; the Chaurasia ; the Parik ; and the Ddhima. Of these the Sanawar and Adh Gor eat and intermarry ; the Gujar Gor, Churdsia, Parik, and Ddhima, each keeps entirely aloof from all other gotrs. In Jaipur, however, Gor gotrs do all eat together, owing to the action of a Jaipur chief who interested himself in the matter. It is, however, admitted on all hands that these caste restrictions are weakening, and occasionally one hears of a marriage in which bride and bridegroom belong to the same clan (gotr). The principal Baniya or Mahdjan clans are Khandelwal Baniya*. and Agarwal. Minas were formerly the rulers of much of the country now held by the Jaipur chief. They still hold a good social position, for Rajputs will eat and drink from .their hands, and they are the most trusted guards in the Jaipur state. The Minas are of two classes the " Zaminddri," or agricultural, and the " Chaukidari," or watchmen. The former are excellent cultivators, and are good, well- * See Karauli Gazetteer, \\ 1. ( 42 ) behaved por.ple. They form u large portion of the population in Karauli, and are numerous in Jaipur. The " Chaukidari" Minas, though of the same tribe as the other class, are distinct from it. They consider themselves soldiers by profession, and so somewhat superior to their agricultural brethren, from whom they take, but do not give, girls in marriage. Many of the " Chaukidari " Minas take to agriculture, and, I believe, thereby lose caste to some extent. These Chaukidari Minas are the famous marauders. They travel in bands, headed by a chosen leader, as far south as Haidarabad in the Deccan, where they commit daring robberies ; and they are the principal class which the Thuggee and Dacoitee Suppression Department has to act against. In their own villages they are often charitable ; and as success- ful plunder has made some rich, they benefit greatly the poor of their neighbourhood, and are consequently popular. But those who have not the enterprise for distant expeditions, but steal and rob near their own homes, are numerous, and are felt to be a great pest. Some villages pay them highly as Chaukidars to refrain from plundering and to protect the village from others. At the small town of Kot Putli the Chaukidars' legitimate income is nearly Rs. 2000. So notorious are they as robbers that the late chief of Ulwur, Bauni Singh, afraid lest they should corrupt their agricultural brethren, and desirous of keeping them apart, forbade their marrying, or even smoking or associating with members of the well- conducted class. In April 1863 Major Impey, then Political Agent of Ulwur, issued orders placing the Chaukidari Minas under surveillance ; and under Major CadelPs direction, lists of them have been made out, periodical roll-call enforced in the villages, and absence without a leave certificate punished. I am not sure that, although, speaking generally, Minas are divided into Chaukidari and Zamindari, there is any hard and fast line between the two classes. There is, I believe, an intermediate class ; for M. R. Banni Singh's attempts to keep the two apart were not very successful. This would account for the figures of the statement given below, which, however, still tells heavily against the Chaukidari Minas. It was pre- pared in April 1874. Statement regarding Ulwur Mind's : 1. Percentage of agricultural Minas to total population of the state 5*2 2. Of non-agricultural . . . . . .1*1 3. Percentage of apprehensions of agricultural to total apprehen- sions ....... 14-0 4. Percentage of non-agricultural to total apprehensions . . 15 '2 For number of Minas convicted of criminal offences, see " Jail." There are said to be 32 clans of Minas. Out of 59 Minas appre- hended for Dacoity by the Dacoity Suppression Department, I found that the Jeb clan furnished 17, the Kdgot 9, the Sim 8, and the Jarwal and ( 43 ) Bagri 5 each. The Susdmat was, I believe, formerly the most powerful clan, and that which held Amer. The Giijars of Ulwur are not, as elsewhere, an unmanageable class. Their anxiety in some places to be free from the oppression of Rajput tyrants, who formerly exacted vexatious dues and curtailed their liberty, has made them good subjects of the State. The clans found are the Kasana, Chandija, Rawat, Chandela, Newar, Bhedi. Jats here, as everywhere else, take the highest rank as agriculturists, or share it with Kachis alone. The clans found in Ulwur are Nirwdl, Kawalia, Kadalia, Simrdla, Kdsanwdl, Sadawat. They usually abstain from taking life, from eating meat, drinking wine, and smoking tobacco. In their villages " Panck pira makdns" (see "Religon") are usually found, and Musulman saints are often maintained. Ahirs are good peaceable cultivators, and need no special notice. The clans are Mela Kanochia, Bhagwana, Jadon, Bakaria, Sasodia. The Ahir Rao of Rewari, formerly an important chief to the north, belonged to the Aphriya division of the Jadon clan. He once had, it is said, 360 villages, but the British reduced them to 45, and these, too, were taken away from him for his conduct during the mutinies of 1857. The numbers of the most numerous and important castes have been already specified, and something has been said regarding each. The Chu- mars are indeed more numerous, I believe, than any other caste, but they are in very low public estimation. They are cultivators, leather workers, and village drudges. The following castes have between 10,000 and 20,000 members : Kumhdrs or potters, Fakirs (see p. 39, note), Kulis and Juldrs or weavers, Nais or barbers, Khdtis or carpenters. Sakkas or water carriers, Jogis or religious devotees of sorts, Dhobis or washermen, Shekhs (respectable Musalmaus), Luhdrs or blacksmiths, Mirdsis or low Musalman musicians, Telis or oilmen, range between 4000 and 10,000. Rangrez or dyers, usually Musalman ; Saiyads, held in high esteem (p. 71); Kandkeras, cotton cleaners, usually Musalman; Chelas or household slaves ; each exceed 2000 in number. Of the following there are more than 1000: Kahdrs (Hindoo Palki bearers), Rebdris (Hindoo camel keepers), Manikdrs (Hindoo and Musal- man bracelet makers), MujAivars (Musalman shrine menials), Ddkots (a low caste of Brahmin beggar), Kunjras (Musalman greengrocers), Bkatidras (Musalman sarai or inn caterers. Those which follow exceed 500 in number : Bharbhuryas (Hindoo grain roasters), Agaris (Hindoo salt extractors), Baoris (a thieving and despised watchman class), Nakibs (Musalman runners), Dkddkis (a caste of popular singers). Other castes less numerous are Jodh bargis (a low Hindoo caste), Dhunsar (a very respectable baniya caste), Bisdtis (pedlars), Kaim Kkdnis ( 44 ) (respectable Rajput Musalmans), Lodhas (?), Palleddrs (porters), BJidnds (Musalman actors), Chdrans (Hindoo poets), Khajasarai and Hijra (kinds of eunuchs), Gadarias (Hindoo blanket makers), Gkosi (milk sellers), Kamnigars (painters, formerly bow makers), B&zigars (jugglers), Khatris (Hindoo traders), Patuas (Hindoo workers in silk), Thateras (brass- workers), Niydria (collectors of silver filings), Badhiks (bird catchers), Sisgars (glass workers). The above are mentioned in order of numerical importance. The last few- are each under twenty. I have not attempted to distinguish between a mere profession and a caste proper, which eats and marries with none outside of it, but for the most part the list is one of distinct castes. CONDITION AND HABITS OF THE PEOPLE. There are no extremely wealthy people in the state and only a few rich. These last are found not in the city of Ulwur, but in The wealthy. -r, j -r> , /. -rr- , J Rajgarh and Bas of Kishengarh. Some trouble was taken to ascertain the material condition of the agricultural population, and to estimate the proportions of the comfortable class, the intermediate, and the very poor. For one of the first-class it was calculated that there would be four of the second and from fifteen to twenty-five of the third. The first-class live well, consuming plenty of milk, butter-milk porridge (rdbri), ghee, sugar, and good flour. The second-class obtains butter-milk porridge (rdbri), but little if any milk or ghee, and no sugar, and only the coarser kind of grain. The third class consumes water porridge and coarse grain ; everything else goes to pay the debts due to the baniya. All classes get more or less tobacco ; about 50 per cent, do not possess more than one head of cattle. A good deal, however, is spent by the poorer classes on marriages; and though boys often remain long unmarried owing to poverty, few grow old single, for Meos allow concubinage without bastardising the issue of it, and the lower castes of Hindus can make daricha marriages that is, marry the widows of their brethren. Many make money by the marriage of their daughters. Even Baniyas now often do this. In dress I can discover no striking peculiarity. The common dopatta is worn by men with the angarkha, or in the absence of both, the dohar. The women wear angis* paej&mas (drawers) or ghdgras (petti- coats), and dopattas. Khanzada women wear the tilak, a kind of tunic worn also by low castes. A European official on coming to Rajputana will observe that his re- ception at the villages he visits is different from what he usually meets with in British territory. As he approaches, women collect, one places a brass vessel on her head, and the party be- * Kanchali, sina bandh, choli (all the same}. ( 45 ) gins a song. All visitors of position receive this attention, and are ex- pected to drop a rupee or more into the vessel, which is called Kolas. The songs sung on these occasions are popular ones of the neighbour- hood, often containing allusions to "dear Amer," the old capital of the present Jaipur territory, and to the great chiefs of that territory, Man Singh and Siwai Jai Singh, who formerly held parts of that country, and whose names are still household words. Sometimes a grand procession or the preparation of a banquet is the burden of the song. About Ulwur the praises of the beautiful memorial dome and the tank under the fort are deservedly sung, but always in connection with an expression of loyalty towards the local chief. Another class of common village ballads illustrates the life of the people. Occasionally one hears a strain deprecating the return of some terrible famine. Sometimes an official is received with a kolas song lament- ing the poverty of the village lands which will yield but ne crop a year. When the rains are favourable and the dahr or floodable lands submerged, gleeful strains arise in anticipation of the coming crop of cotton and sugar-cane (ban bar), and of the bright-spangled petticoats and well-dyed scarves, which will soon be attainable. A tank or other public work con- structed by some benevolent magnate of the neighbourhood, or his lady, sometimes produces a popular ballad in praise of the benefactor ; but marriages and births are the grand subjects for songs. The former often expresses intense anxiety regarding the respectability of the bride's attire when she appears under the nuptial canopy, and her mother's brother is the person chiefly looked to for aid. The song said to be the most popular on the occasion of births among all castes except Rajputs exhibits the popular feeling with regard to con- duct and duty. The child is exhorted to dwell on the name of God (Sahib), who had preserved him in the womb, and worship Him who had safely given him birth. He should use and enjoy the good things of life, thus if he has relations he should not live in loneliness, if he has ghee and grain and oil he should dwell free from hunger, debt, and dark- ness ; if he can keep a horse he should not walk on foot. He should walk in the path of his religious order (rasta panth) and not wander from it. He should see his neighbour's field fruitful without covetousness, and if he cannot trust his self-restraint he mast avoid the field. He should show no levity on seeing another man's wife, and in spite of wandering desire regard her as his sister ; only in that relation to her can he attain to God. Let him give cows to Brahmins, the merit of it will establish him. Let him give clothes to his sister and her children, the merit of it will support him. With his family let him bathe in the Ganges and the Jumna. Kabaddi, or a sort of prisoner's base, played, I believe, all over ( 46 ) India, and hogrl or hockey, are the two principal games played by young men. They are chiefly played by moonlight. Ilogri is sometimes represented in frescoes on palace walls, and is alluded to in the lines regarding the turbulent founders of the Dasa- wat Nanika and the Shekawat clans Ilajo Shekho, raj su Parpe nahin ariyan j Satu seri mokall, Ddsa khel dhariyan. O Raja Shekha, with you None successfully contend ; The seven ways open (i.e., unchecked), Ddsa strikes the hocky ball (or plays dacoitee). The expenses defrayed from the Malbak or village funds, collected "Maibah"or w ^k ^ ne revenue, little checked as they have been, illus- viiiage ex- trate to some extent the village life. In all villages I speak from an examination of the accounts of thirty from 1 to 3, or even 4 per cent, oh their land revenue was spent in alms to beggars, gifts to holy men, and the celebration of the principal annual festivals. Something was usually paid for the performances, on other occasions, of itinerant acrobats and conjurers (natts and kanjars). A third item was marriage and funeral gifts to members of the community, both proprietors and village servants. A fourth, the maintenance of the thara, or building used as the village assembly house and resting-place, where the public business of the locality is discussed, and where travel- lers and visitors find a night's lodging. In a prosperous village, as much as Us. 700 is occasionally spent in one year in building a new or im- proving an old thara. The village servants, carpenter, blacksmith, washerman, and scavengers are usually paid by a maund or two of grain per harvest on each well or house, but the Chumar selected to attend to the behests of Tahsil requisitioning sepoys, and sometimes the thara waterman and sweeper receive allowances from the village fund. Other items would be mentioned more properly under revenue ad- ministration, but as the subject of village expenses has been begun it may as well be finally disposed of here. " Lumbardar's food" or the expenses of the village representatives when at Tahsfl headquarters or at Ulwur on village business. The amount varied from 1 to 2, and sometimes 3, per cent, on ihejamma. " Patwarree's sayer" or stationery allowance to Patwarees, was from one to two rupees a harvest. " Interest " levied by the state on arrears of revenue at 1^ per cent, per mensem, commencing from the fourth day after the revenue was due. This seems very severe, but practically the high rate of interest acts as a stimulant to punctuality, and very little interest has to be charged. The rule of charging interest on arrears seems to have been introduced by M. R. Banni Singh's Diwans from Dehli, and cannot be described as un- successful or oppressive. At least not as modified when Captain Impey was Political Agent at Ulwnr.* He induced the council to direct that interest should never exceed one-fourth of the arrears due ; and compound interest is never charged. " Talabana," or cost of summonses to pay revenue, or to cut a state grass preserve (rund), or to appear before a court. The rate is 2 annas for each summons in revenue, criminal, and civil cases. In miscellan- eous 2 pice. This sum is paid daily until the summons is complied with. Three-fourths of the " talabana " at present goes to the mazkuri, or summons bearer ; but a committee is considering whether the talabdna might not be credited to the state, and fixed regular pay allowed the mazkuris, who would not then be interested in delaying the attainment of the object of the summons. Captain Impey and the council had caused orders to be issued in re- straint of village expenses, the limit of which was fixed at a percentage of the village jamma. With some modification these orders were lately re-afiirmed, thus it has been directed that in future malbah shall not ex- ceed on a revenue of t> ." . 15 percent, on the jamma or revenue. 10 ' ?> >j / ' >5 K ;> J> ... ''''-'' M * Major Cadell directed a minute inquiry in one tahsil (Tijara) regarding amounts borrowed from money-lenders to pay jamma on one harvest. The result was as follows : 44 villages]out of 106 had not borrowed at all. 13 a villages had borrowed under . ... . BO 14 ' 7 4 5 3 4 2 1 1 1 Total borrowed was . . , 19,760 Interest charged by money-lenders 21,866 Paid on realising crops . 20,151 Balance due to money-lenders . 1,715 ( 43 ) The allowance to Lumbarbars or heads of villages, which in British territory under the name of' pachotara is five per cent of the jamma, in Ulwur is usually three, and in the Tahsils of Katumbar and Bansur for the most part two only. But this two and three per cent, is not paid from the " malbah," a collection over and above the jamma, or Government demand, but is paid out of the jamma. It was felt, considering the responsibilities of the Lumbardars, to be in- sufficient, and the council has in consequence recently ordered that Lumbardars are to receive two per cent, from the malbah, as well as their allowance from the State, provided that the total percentage sanctioned for malbah, as above detailed, is not exceeded. An inducement is thus held out to Lambardars to put a check on expenditure, which is often more for their own glorification than for the good of the village, and which often falls heavily on the poorest members of the community, although they have no effectual vote or veto. The cesses of one per cent, for schools, and one per cent, for dispen- Dispensary and saries, is levied by the State, in addition to the jamma, but school. j g no t included in the malbah. These cesses were imposed by M. R. Sheodan Singh many years ago, and are not directly due to the influence of any British officer. In all native states officials, when moving about on business, are allowed fodder, wood, and earthen pots gratis. This allowance is known as kabtib. In Ulwur these necessaries were supplied without payment by the villages, except in one tahsil, in which their cost was defrayed by the State. The council has recently ordered that the practice of payment by the State be extended to all the tahsils, and the accounts will be regularly forwarded and audited in the Treasury. The villagers are in Ulwur, as elsewhere, held to a certain extent re- sponsible for the protection of travellers and their goods, and the repression of crime, but chaukidars or village watchmen are not generally employed, and all the ordinary liabilities and expenses of villages not included in the land revenue have, I think, been enumerated, except those connected with the cutting of grass preserves, which is elsewhere spoken of. The following list shows the extent to which the different castes of Foreign Ulwur territory seek military service beyond its limits. It service. w [i\ J-JQ geen ^ na ^ the least numerous of the castes, the Raj- put Musalmans, contribute many more than any other, and that after them come the Khanzadas. This probably is due to the habit of foreign service acquired by their ancestors in the time of Musalman supremacy, when they met with favour in the imperial armies, and, as perverts, were, no doubt, regarded with suspicion by Rajput chiefs : Brahmins . Thakur Hindti . . . Jat In British Cavalry. 9 9 2 In Infantry. 35 From several Tehsils. 26 Chiefly from Manddwar and Bdnsiir. 31 Chiefly Mandawar. Giijar o 40 Chiefly Bahror. Ahir 12 34 do. Shekh 8 2 Saiyad 30 3 Kishengarh. Pathan 5 3 Khanzadas . . . . Kazfs 28 8 17 Tijara. 2 Meo 11 34 Tijara Thdkur Musalman Sakka (water carriers) Thirteen other castes . 110 6 15 4 Mandawar. 14 Katumbar. 15 253 260 There are said to be about 200 Uiwur artisans, munshis, and others, not of the military profession, in service in British territory. 3- - ^ r jj M' Ci iH OJ t^ ^oo iH CO b-tNCO to in in (a r-l (M jH i-l jaqranji IJ < n C> i-i ci ( 51 ) GC t C> CO CO CC CO CO *1* *f CN C5 IOSQC.?rH^pr~G-IQOOcC in"co"iefeo"co"^r-Jc- 00 1ft i?t C ficoot-^-icccxt pH CC 1O C"-l O f CV O 7 m . CO t*- ~* C* 00 *O i CN i^cc ri -r cj i I-H OS IO ' MCO i tOOOt>-Oi' < C5tOO>OOOOOiC5 >OO'OOtOCO-.O5> ITJ-r- If-i M 1 O i-> ' C^ i 1 I C5 US O O ' i- -f --2 ir: I-H v . i - .-i - s. M 7 1 1 i-H 1 CCO C<5 55 !-IOO'l"OOOOOT-l r-IW^lft O3 rH C^(MOOOC l~( C^l * < CO O COOSOi 1 g40}Apino-uoji BJ01BAH1HD-UO^J faoiAii|nD-noN m ~ -3 <1 55 K 2"** w 2 H O IO 00 CM i-H rH t^Ti-H rH : oc o c-i t^ CM ci cc t^ CM IO CM CO O CN rH i i O) eo~ i-T eo't-^co" < O w c> O CO OO t ~ S * ^ t^- *-H CO CO C O IO IO C>1 CO CO -H GC CO Ci l c? > O H O t 1 S M S CC CO g . CO Cultivator! . Non-cultivators B li CHAPTER III. RELIGION. THE Kuldevi or family deity of the Narukas, as also of the Kachwahas of Raiputand, is the Jamwahi Mahadevi, whose temple is in Hindu deitiea. ' , . ' the gorge or the Banganga riiver in Jaipur territory, not tar from the south-east corner of Ulwur territory. It was here that Dhola Rai, the founder of the present Jaipur State, and subsequently his son, are said to have received miraculous aid from Mahadevi when contending with Minas and Bargujars. The sons of the Ulwur Chief go in state to this temple to have the ceremony of tonsure performed. Sita and Ram, however, are naturally the deities to whom most respect is paid by Narukas and other Kachwahas, since they claim descent from Ram and Sita, whose images are carried with the army, both in Ulwur and in Jaipur. Sri Khrishn, too, as his birthplace, Mathura, is so near, is also much reverenced by the ruling family and upper class and Baldeo. Sri Khrishn's elder brother is in high repute. " Jai Baldeojf !" or " Jai Ragundthji!" are the commonest forms of salutation. As regards the religion of the mass, an intelligent, well-informed person whom I con- sulted estimated half the Hindus to be of the Vishnu sects, one-fourth of Shiv, and one-fourth of both. The followers of Shiv, amongst whom are included the devotees of Devi in all her forms, though in a minority, are a very important class. There are no great temples of modern date, but there is a very interesting old Shiv temple at a place called " Nil Kanth," above the Tahla valley. It is still maintained, though, no doubt, not as it once was (see Nilkanth). The Shiv Swamis x or priests, of Narainpur in Bansiir, Naldai, a place near Khushalgarh, where Mahadeo Shiv manifested himself, the temple called Bakteswar on the Baktawar Sagar, all have a reputation. Maharao Raja Baktawar Singh and Banni Singh themselves affected the respectable Shakta persuasion called Dakshina; but I am afraid that, of all the divisions of Hinduism, none is so prosperous at Ulwur as the disreputable Shakta sect known as Vdmis. The worst division of the Vamis is called the Kunda Pant/i, perhaps the Kuras of Wilson's " Hindoo Sects." The Kunda Panth is said to practise all the abominations on account of which Vamis are infamous. ( 53 ) Men of position are believed to be secret members of it; and it is admitted on all hands to be making progress. The Kunda Pantkis disregard caste rules, and all eat together. The Vishnu worshippers in Ulwur, as elsewhere, may conveniently be divided into two classes. First, the small learned class, consisting mainly of philosophic Brahmins, and called by Wilson the orthodox. Second, the sects. The latter, to which the mass of the people belong, may, I think, be further subdivided into the four 11 Sampradiyas " and the " Panths." Of the four Sampradiyas, the most numerous are the Ramawats, next to them come the Madhwa-charis, then the Nimbawats. The Balba-charis, so numerous in Jaipur, Bikanir, &c., are not represented in the city, but they are in the districts. The number of temples indicate the relative importance of the different cults. R&m&wats . . .10 considerable temples. Niinbdwats ... 6 Madhwa-chari 7 These Sampradiyas trust in Brahmins many of whom are members of them use Sanscrit chiefly, and keep images in their temples. The Panthfs, who are regarded as dissenters, prefer vernacular books to Sanscrit, have a doctrinal literature of their own, and, Charan Dasis and Mohan Panthis excepted, the members of them do not, speaking generally, worship images. They are disliked by, and respect little, the Brahmins, and they have no temples. There is not, however, a hard and fast line between them and the Sampradiyas ; and I have known a man arrange to feed Brahmins one day and the Sadhs (holy men) of the Panthis the next. The Panthfs he proposed to entertain were The Kabir Panthis, Dadu Panthis, Charau Dasis, Ram Snehis, Sat- namis, Parnamis, Mohan Panthis. The Lai Dasis, who are almost as much a Vishnu sect as the rest, although Musalmans belong to it, he did not include, notwithstanding that the sect is in Ulwur, I believe, the most numerous of all. The founders of the Lai Dasis and the Charan Dasis were born in villages near together, and within eight miles of the city of Ulwur. Lai Das, at DhaoH Dhub, at the entrance to the valley of Dehra, four miles north of the city, and Charan Das at Dehra itself. It is remarkable that in the hills overhanging the same valley is the most attractive of the Meo shrines known as Chuhar Sidh (see " Fairs "). Lai Das is said to have been born of Meo parents in s. 1597 (A.D. 1540), who, though nominally Musalmau, followed the i'im{ observances of the Hindu religion. As Lai Das is the chief saint of Ulwur, I will give a somewhat full account of him : A biography of Lai Das in verse which came into my hands says that " Lai Das entered the world in this 'Kaljng' because God was neglected, and meu in their folly worship stones." ( 54 ) Lai Das lived many years at Dhaolf Dhiib, and used to wander over the hills behind Ulwur, and into the fort in search of sticks, by selling which he got his living. At length he began to work miracles. An excited elephant stopped in full career and saluted him, and a Musalman saint, one Chishti Gadan, of Tijara, found him standing in the air in meditation. The Musalman conversed with Lai Das, and, discovering his piety and unworldliness, enjoined him to teach both Hindus and Musalmans. After this Lai Das went and lived at Bandoll, sixteen miles north-east of Ulwur, in the Ramgarh " pargana." There " he laboured for his own support and the good of others." He lived on the top of a hill, and went through great austerities in the hottest weather; was safe from snake and tiger, and cured the sick. Disciples collected round him of all castes, and one, an oilman, received from him miraculous power, which he used to expose an adulteress before an assembly. For this Ldl Das reproved him, and eventually resumed his gift. Lai Das prayed that he might be relieved of all his false disciples, so persecution from a Mughal official began, and they all fell away. It arose from Lai Das having caused the death of a Mughal who had laid hands on another roan's wife; and Lai Das, with his true followers, was carried to Bahadarpur, a few miles off. The Musalman Faujdar of Bahadarpur expressed surprise at his being followed by both Hindus and Musalmans, and asked him what he was. Lai Das replied that the question was a foolish one what he was in truth he knew not, but he got his garment, the flesh, in a Meo's house. The Faujdar demanded Rs. 5 apiece from the party as the price of releasing them, but they would pay nothing, and then the Faujdar gave them water from a poisonous well, the only result of which was that the well became sweet, and was known afterwards as " the sugar well." On another occasion Lai Das was assaulted by Mughals, and called to his protection angels, who slew fourteen of them ; but his followers, thinking that anger was derogatory to Lai Das, spread a report that they killed the Mughals, and that Lai Das had shown no anger. Lai Das left Bandolf, and resided at the neigh- bouring village of Todi, now in Gurgaom, on the Ulwur border, where, being persecuted, he went away. At Naroli the people refused him water, whereupon their wells dried up.* At Rasgan, in Ramgarh, he was well received, and there he remained a while, " repeating God's name, and teaching disciples the way." Lai Das, though he at times is said to have practised the severest asceticism, had not led a life of celibacy. " He had a daughter, named Sarupa, who could work miracles. One day he told her that greatness and wonder-working even were vanity, they, too, pass away like the wind ; purity and gentleness alone were availing. Those who possessed them would attain to peace in heaven (Har ke lok), and no more be subject to birth and death. Lai Das's son, Pahara, too, was a miracle-worker bless- ings on him and on Lai Das's brothers, Sher Khan and Ghaus Khan. These all had hope in God (Harji) alone, and in no other Deo. A voice in a mosque (? Harmandir), where Lai Das had gone, foretold the birth to him of a son, who was to be a polar star (" Kutb "), and would succeed in the work of many births. Lai Das received the announcement with one word, "Bhala!" A few months after, to try his faith, a daughter was born to him, who died directly. Lai Das felt no grief, for God- worshippers (Harbhagatan) are always joyful. Soon after God spoke to him again of the " Kutb." Lai Das manifested no hurry or anxiety. A second daughter was born, and she too died. Lai Das said, " I have faith in God " (Sain ko meri biswas). * Naroli is uninhabited ; it was a hamlet of Munpur Karmala of Rdnigarh, Ulwur. ( 55 ) At length a boy, after eighteen months' pregnancy, was born. The child lived but eighteen days, but he spoke and reproached his mother for not showing him his father. Lai Das was sent for, and spoke to him, whereupon the child died satisfied. A faithful Sadh washed and dressed the corpse, and his sister Sarupa besought her father to commemorate him by a miracle. The child's body was taken towards Bandoli (where, apparently, the infant daughters had been interred). A deep stream was in the way ; but, as Sarupa walked forward, a dry path appeared, and the little corpse was carried to Bdndoli, where a Dargdh was established, which has still a great reputation. It was reported to Sahib Hukm, Mughal Governor of Tijara, that Lai Das did not pray as a Musalman, nor perform ablutions, nor call on the prophet, but that he taught Hindus and Musalmans the same doctrine. The "hakim" sent for Lai Das, who received the messengers kindly, and accompanied them with twelve disciples, who refused to leave him. A vicious horse which he had to ride became quiet in his hands, and a fawn which one of the Musalmans killed, and compelled Ldl Das to carry, came to life. The Tijdra "hakim" treated Lai Das kindly. But he offered him meat, saying that it was Musalman food, and that he who was a Musalman and ate as such was in the path of God. Lai Das replied, " Love God. God is one and separate from all. There is one path for Hindu and Turk, by which they come and go. Whoever kills another cuts his own throat, for the murdered is avenged by God's casting the mur- derer into hell. Let me be shown how to escape before the judgment-seat, where God himself will do justice. The good keep in mind the fear of that day." Ldl Das then took the food into his hand, and the meat turned to fine rice. Lai Das and his twelve followers were then confined under a guard for the night, but without severity. They all vanished, and the guard was imprisoned for letting them go ; on which they all appeared again in the jail. Sahib Hukm, the hakim, had a beloved daughter who was tormented by a witch, and the necromancers (jadugirs) could do jiothing to relieve her; and Kazis and Mulvls could not exorcise the evil spirit. Her mother appealed to Lai Das, and he went to the girl, who immediately began to kiss his feet ; and the " demon " (jin) having left the girl, appeared before Lai Das and declared his submission. In Maujpur (Lachmangarh pargana) was a holy man, Mansukha by name, and a Malli by caste, who loved God with a true love (sachhi prit), and gave much in alms. He believed in Lai D&s, but his wife disparaged him because he worked no miracles, and because he could not avoid being carried off to Tijdra. Mausukha said Lai Das knew the thoughts of men. On his going shortly after to pay his respects, Lai Das received him badly on account of his unbelieving wife. Mansukha was going sorrow- fully away. Ldl Das, however, forgave him, and called him back and comforted him, just as a mother takes into her arms and consoles a child whom she has corrected. An Agra merchant was shipwrecked. He asked for advice. Some said one thing, some another ; but he remembered Lai Das, and called on him, promising him a tithe if his goods were saved. Lai Das heard the prayer of the distant merchant, and showed emotion. The goods were saved. However, Lai Das refused his thank- offering, as he had no need of wealth, but told him to give it to Vishnu Sadhs. A Kayath of Agra, of great wealth and of high position, was afflicted by leprosy or some foul skin disease, which made life a burden to him. Hearing of Lai Das's goodness to the shipwrecked merchant, he went to him at the full moon, Lai Daa'a ( 56 ) chief day of reception. The saint told the Kayath to give all his goods in charity and abandon the world. In token of his having forsaken all pride and worldliness, he was to blacken his face, mount a donkey, and hang a gourd on his back. He obeyed ; and on his subsequently bathing at the junction of the rivers at Allahabad, his body became pure as gold. Various other miracles of the same type are related in the account of Lai Das, who prevents an eclipse of the sun, predicts the famine of s. 1884, feeds NagaCharan Das of Mathura, who comes to him with 700 followers. The Meos having carried off his buffaloes, Lai Das prophesied that Mewat should belong to the Kachw.lchas and their chief Jai Singh. Before his death, Lai Das having met with one Thakuria of V. Chapra, who maintained himself and fed others out of the proceeds of his own labour, and was blessed by God with the necessary virtues, wished to appoint him his successor ; but Thakuria declined the honour as being unworthy of it, and Lai Das gave him the choice of burial alive or acceptance of authority. Thakuria chose the former. According to popular belief, Lai Das died s. 1705 (A.D. 1648), at the age of 108, at Nagla, a Bhartpur village on the Ulwur border, and was buried eventually at Sherpur, in Ramgarh, Ulwur, where there is now a fine shrine. Lai Das's sayings have been preserved by his followers, and a few extracts from a popular collection called bdni or gutka I subjoin. Like all religious books of the kind, it is in verse, and the language is simple and familiar. It treats in successive chapters of eight subjects, but very briefly ; the verse is flowing and regular. Following each exhor- tation are hymns (bhajari) in an irregular metre, which embody the teaching, and are adapted for singing. They occupy much the greater portion of the bdni. Musalman terms, such as " Kariina," are used, but allusions to Hindu mythology are not unfrequent. Some of Kabir's Sdkhis are mixed up with the bhajans. The first heading is wor- ship (bhagat), and the words of the true Guru (Sabad). It is a general exhortation, which is repeated in more detail in the subsequent chapters. The book opens with a condemnation of begging ; and the emphasis laid upon this point is, I think, the most striking and interesting feature in the teaching of Lai Das, who may be regarded as a missionary of industry, as the following extracts will show: " Lalji Bhagat bhlkh na manghe, Mangat awe sharm Ghar ghar haudat dokh hai Kya Badshah kya Hurm." " Saith Lalji, Let not the devotee beg Begging is shameful ; Wandering from house to house is wrong, Even if they be those of kings or queens." (That is, begging is begging, even if you beg only from the great and wealthy.) ( 57 ) The second chapter is on the true saint (Sadh), and it too opens in the same strain " Laljf Sadhu aisa chahiye Dhan kaim'ikar kbaf Hirde Har kf chdkrf Parghar kabhu na jai." " Saith Laljf, The Sadh should be one Who earns the food he eats ; Let God's service be the heart's, And go not about begging." (That is, these are the two great duties.) The Sadh should return good for evil (angun tipar gun kare). lie should be candid and bold in speech " Sadhu aisa chahiye Chaure rahe baja f Ki tute ke phir jure Man ka dhokha jaf." " The Sadh should be one Who speaks out plainly ; Whether friendship be broken or only interrupted, Let there be no delusion." He should be lord over his passions (Pdnckon men pat rake) ; he should be persistent, resolute not to turn back. These points are dwelt on with much force, and are the burden of the third chapter, on mind (man) and its restraint. The fourth chapter is on respect for the rights and property of others (kak), and the spirit which produces it " Lalji hak khaiye hak piyiye Hak ki karo faroh In baton Sahib khushi Birla barti kol" " Saith Laljf, Eat what is your own, drink what is your own, And sell only whatsis your own ; For these things are pleasing to God, But few observe them." He who begs disregards this injunction, for he lives on others. " Laljf ghar karo to hal karo Suno hamari sfkh Dozak we hi jaenge Gharbari mange bhfkh Kya mangte ka man hai, Mange tukra khai ! Kutta jun handat phire, Janain akarath jai." H ( 58 ) " Saith Laljf, If you keep a house, then keep a plough. Listen to my teaching They will go to hell will Those householders who beg. What honour has a beggar ? One who begs and eats morsels, Who wanders begging like a dog, His life passes profitlessly." Lai Das loses all patience with the mean and insincere when they reject counsel, and with a bitterness which is contrary to his usual spirit, and which rather shocks a mild Hindu, he says " Bahte ko bahjando, Mat pakrao thor, Samjhaya samjhe nahin, De dhaka do aur. " " Let the drifting man drift away ; Give him nothing to grasp ; When warned he would not listen, Now give him a push or two." The fifth heading is "calmness" (sil), the ornament (sobka) of the true Sadh. The sixth is on the true hero, who fights and wins in the spiritual battlefield, where the coward crouches and regrets " Siira tabhi jauiye, Lare dhani ke het, Purja pnrjd, ho pare, To na chhore khet." " Think him only a good soldier Who fights for his Lord ; Who may be cut to pieces But leaves not his ground." The seventh is on the true teacher (Satgur), whose vigour, courage, and devotion are dwelt on, and who acts on Lai Das's words " So dhan Lalan sanchro, So age ko hoi, Kandha pichhe ganthri, Jat na dekha koi." " Lay up, says Lai, that treasure Which hereafter may avail ; With a bundle on his shoulder Never was man seen to leave the world." The eighth is on greed (lobh, IdlacJi) and its evil. The ninth on asceticism (bairdg), but the advantages of prdndydm, practised by other sects, are not dwelt on (see p. 62, note), and apparently was not enjoined by Lai Das. ( 59 ) The Lai Dasi Sadhs, like Lai Das himself, are family men, and marry with Meos, but do not eat with them. The initiatory rites which a con- vert has to undergo ought to ensure sincerity. In token of his abandon- ment of the world and worldly pride, he has, like the wealthy leper mentioned above, to blacken his countenance, to mount on a donkey with his face to its tail, and to hang a string of shoes about his neck. A cup of sherbet is then given him, and he becomes a member of the fraternity. A convert has been known to allow his house to be plundered of all it contained ; and besides maintaining himself by his own labour, it is in- cumbent on a good Lai Dasi to give of his earnings to others. But these are the Sadhs, and are comparatively few. There are large numbers of Meos who merely hold Lai Das in reverence as a Pir and a great Meo. Repetition of Ram's name, and singing hymns to rude music, seem to be the only forms of worship ; but meditation, " keeping God's name in the heart," is, I am told, held essential. Prdndydm (p. 62, note) is practised by a few Lai Dasis, though, as already stated, its necessity was not taught by the founder of the sect, and is not common. The day before each full moon, and every Sunday, are kept as fasts. A meal on those days is made in the evening, when it is a duty to light a lamp and keep it burning during the night. The Lai Dasis are chiefly Meos, Baniyas, and Kalals, and are most numerous in the eastern portion of the State. There are many in Bhart- pur, and some further east, whence they come pilgrimages to the Las Das shrines in Ulwur. In Firozpur, of the Gurgaom district, there are " khatis " (carpenters) and Agarwala Baniyas who follow Lai Das. There are two very small Lai Das makdns, or places of worship, in Ulwur city, and at the shrines at Sherpur and Bandoli in Ramgarh, Dhaoli Dhiib in Ulwur, and Nagla, a Bhartpur village close to Sherpur. Fairs are held at those places three times a year. At Sherpur, on Asoj 11 (October), on Asarh punam (full moon) about July, and on Magh punam about November ; at Bandoli two days later, and at Dhaoli Dhub, two days later than at Bandoli. The Sherpur fair is attended by 10,000 or 12,000 the others by 1000 or 2000; and amongst the visitors are often merchants of wealth. I have ventured to dwell at considerable length on Lai Das and his followers, because he belongs peculiarly to Ulwur, within the present territory of which he lived and taught, and where his shrines are situated. Moreover, so far as I know, there is no printed mention of Lai Das and his sect. Charan Dasis may be disposed of more summarily, for although Charan Das was born at Dehra, near Ulwur, in s. 1760 (A.D. 7 . v Charan Dasis. 1703), he, when very young, was taken to Dehli, and does not seem to have returned to his native place, or to have taught in its neighbourhood. Besides, Professor Wilson, in his " Hindoo Sects," gives ( GO ) some information regarding them, which I need not repeat at length. Charan Das was of the Dhusar caste, and, according to the Ulwur account, he was a good musician in addition to his other accomplishments. The same authority says he died in s. 1839 (A.D. 1782). Unlike the other dissenting sects, the Charan Dasis keep images in their temples and respect Brahmins, who are found as members of the sect. They are spoken of by orthodox Hindus with more respect than the other sects are, the four Sampradiyas excepted. Indeed, the Charan Basis may be considered to belong to the same category as the Sampra- diyas, and I have included them amongst the dissenting sects only on account of their attachment to the vernacular. They are not numerous nor wealthy in Ulwur territory, where, however, there are ten small temples and monasteries, two of which are in the city. Their Sadhs are, I believe, all celibate. There is one temple at Bahadarpur, where the establishment possesses a village, and is better off than the others. A small fair is held at Baha- darpur, in honour of Charan Das and his ancestor. Another is at Dehra, where there is a monument over Charan Das's naval-string, and his garments and rosary are kept at Dehra. The remainder are in different parts of the State. The Charan Das Gutka or breviary exhibits more Sanscrit learning than those of the other sects, and, instead of passing allusions to mythology, goes into details regarding Sri Khrishn's family, and merely popularises the orthodox Sanscrit teaching. Thus there is a chapter on one of the Upanishad and another from the Bhagwat Puran. Its style is perhaps more full, expressive, and less involved than other books of the class. The Sadhs hold to the vernacular, and some time ago are said to have resented an attempt of a learned Charan Dasi to substitute Sanscrit verse for the vulgar tongue. In this, as remarked above, is their main distinction from the Sampradiyas, which prefer Sanscrit. The Gutka contains the Sandeha Sdgar and Dharma Jahdz mentioned by Dr. Wilson. One rather striking chapter, professedly taken from some Sanscrit work, should be called Nas Khetr's " Inferno." Nas Khetr is permitted to visit the hells and to see the torments of sinners, which are described in detail, and the sins of each class specified. It is, in fact, an amplification of the Puranic account of " Nark," adapted to impress the minds of the vulgar. Nas Khetr is then taken to see heaven, and subsequently returns to earth to narrate what he has witnessed. Both Lai Das and Charan Das quote freely from, or allude respectfully , . _ to, Kabir. There are two Kabir Panthi monastic establish- Kabir Panthia. ments in the city, and members of the sect are found in the towns and villages amongst the lower orders. It will not, therefore, be out of place to insert something like an abstract of, and to give some extracts from, the Kabir Panthi " Gutka," more particularly as he was the greatest, and, after Ramanand, the earliest, of the great dissenting ( 61 ) Vishnu teachers ; and the Dadii Pan this, Satnamis, &c., who are repre- sented in Ulwur, are but branches of his sect. Passages in the little breviary which came into my hands are striking from their half- Christian flavour, and would almost seem to have had a Christian source. Dr. Wilson touches on them very briefly. The verse of the " Gutka," which is small enough to be carried conveniently in the pocket, is harmonious, the language easy and familiar, the metaphors simple and popular. The mythological allusions are few ; indeed Kabir is known to have been dissatisfied with the current doctrine. He uses the word " Ram " for God ; but it is said that he declared this not to be the slaughtering Ram of the Ramayan. A learned Brahmin I consulted said that there was exhibited both in the Kabir Panthi and the Dadei Panthi breviary a lamentable ignorance of the precise force of philo- sophical terms, words, the property of opposed systems, being used indiscriminately. Expressions implying Pantheism sometimes appear, while elsewhere vivid faith in a personal God is shown, as in the passage on prayer. Orthodox Hindus say the style is assumed to attract the vulgar, and the teaching is inconsistent and deliberately false. But theistic philosophy would deny the necessity for such an explanation, and Kabir, or his spokesman, expresses his deep discontent with the Brahmins' metaphysics in the words How far have the six systems vainly sought for him ? The selections from Kabir's sayings are in thirteen angs^ or sections. The first is without a heading; it touches on all the chief points. The following is a very imperfect attempt to summarise the Gutka accurately, which is not an easy task, owing to the rambling, reiterative style : Without the Guru, or spiritual teacher, all are helpless. He alone can deliver the soul (jiw) from the ocean of sense (bhao sindh), from grief, from darkness, from doubt, from the hurts and arrows and net of time, from gross impurity, from wearisome births. He can bring the soul into the ocean of peace (sukh sindh), into calm, purity, and content (sil sauchh santosft) ; he can unite the soul with the Deity. Seek, then, the pure Guru and Pir, who will cause you to be as a lotus floating unwetted in the ocean of evil. But none observe the words of Kabir. All are careless, self-igno- rant, sporting with useless chaff and leaves. They seek not know- ledge, they listen not to the voice of wisdom ; guiltily taking life, and pretending to care for the source of life. Why stand praying on one leg bribing an idol ? Why become Jogis, and wander far away into woods ? God is here beside you. Why waste knowledge in seeking drugs and metals for charms ? Can they free you from the noose of time ? Strive for knowledge of existiug things (sirisht gy&ni) and of the Deity (Brihm qyani). ( 62 ) Avoid the world, which is full of deceit, impurity, and stupidity. Restrain the five tats and the twenty-five prikats* Force back the mind and the breath (man pawari).^ Seek not worldly or sectarian aid (jctgat aru bhekh ki paksli). God (Ram) is unaided (nirpaksh) ; be thou so too, or seek the help of Truth alone, and abandon lust, anger, pride, avarice (Mm, krodk, mad/t, loWi)\ combine knowledge (gyari) with freedom from passion (bair&g). What good is the former without the latter ? Man is incomplete without the woman. Cling to truth and mercy. " Be kind, be kind, be kind." Be not satisfied with formal worship at the fixed times when the gong beats, but be worshipping night and day where an unseen gong ever calls with a sound like thunder, where there is neither Ved nor Koran (bed kited), where the pure Essence rests in the sky depths, and where the Sadh in thought dwells. So will you escape illusion and gain liberation. Few learn the secret of rest and peace. He who tastes it can alone realise its comfort. With each breath he drinks in, and is drunk with the divine love. He rests in the ocean of God (this is dwelt upon at great length). He dwells and sports between heaven and earth (aradh aru uradJi) ; there the lotus (the type of purity) floats. The Sadh is a brave soldier (stirwdri). He grasps the sword of knowledge (gy&n shamsher), he enters the battlefield, he conquers lust, he tramps down anger, pride, and avarice. This is no coward's work, a devoted hero only can do it. * Explained by a Sadh to mean here the five elements earth, air, fire, water, atmo- sphere, sky. The twenty-five prikats are the forces of nature as manifested in the natural man, as in his emotions and movements. t This has reference to a practice called prdndydm enjoined by certain schools of philosophy aud the Purdnas to enable the devotee (jogi) to obtain a perfect mastery over his passions, and even over elementary matter, and finally, to be united with the Deity. It consists in sitting in certain attitudes, fixing the eyes on the point of the nose, and tho mind on some aspect or attribute of the Deity, and in breathing very slowly, and in par- ticular ways. The orthodox attach the greatest importance to this practice. Not long ago one of the principal chiefs in India sent a Brahmin to Ulwur to obtain books on the subject from the Raj library. Of the sects, some certainly observe it, thus the Charan Dasi breviary dwells minutely on it. The Kabir breviary enjoins it in a general way, but gives no detailed instructions, and the Lai Dasi breviary, as already mentioned, does not allude to it. Dr. Carpenter has remarked that " there is a very numerous class of persons who are subject to what may be termed 'waking dreams,' which they can induce by placing themselves in conditions favourable to reverie ; and the course of these dreams is essentially determined by the individual's prepossessions, brought into play by suggestions conveyed from without. In many who do not spontaneously fall into this state, fixity of the gaze for some minutes is quite sufficient to induce it ; and the mesmeric mania of Edin- burgh in 1851 showed the proportion of such susceptible individuals to be much larger than was previously supposed." This sufficiently accounts for the popular belief in the power of prdndydm, but the patience and exercise of the will, which it demands, no doubt, often gives it a beneficial moral effect, which strengthens the faith in its value. A certain form of it seems to have been practised by some Christian teachers Swedeu- borg, to wit. ( 03 ) " The Sadh's work is harder than a Satis, or an earthly warrior's, for the Sati suffers but a moment, the warrior only for a short time, but the Sadh must struggle day and night ; if he loosens the reigns the least, he falls from heaven to earth." " Sadh ka khel to bikat baira mata Sati aru sur ki chal age Sur gham-sarn hai palak do char ka Sati gham-sam pal ek lage Sadh sangram hai ren din jhujhna Deh pariyant ka kam bhai Kahe Kabir tuk bag dill kare To ulat man gagan su jamin aL" He must, like Bartri, abandon all worldly possessions and pleasures.* His must be complete devotion. The way is narrow, the pass a thick forest, in it the disciple is en- tangled. He is swallowed up in the mud of action, he sinks into the depths of hell (nick narak). Blame not the Guru if, though listening to him, you keep drink- ing the poison of sensuality; acts cannot be destroyed by the bullet of knowledge ; whatsoever the seed a man sows, the fruit of it shall he eat. " The evil is his, he does it ; the goodness is his, he benefits by it. He himself brings himself to shore ; he himself brings himself to ruin. He immerses himself in the stream of poison ; He frees himself from it and dwells on the holy name. Saith Kabir, this is all a man's own work. He must awake himself. Rain may pour night and day, yet it will not penetrate a glazed vessel. If the arrow (o f the preacher) fails to pierce a rock, blame not the archer." In the three loks (snary, mirat, pdtdl heaven, earth, and hell), one woman (Mdya, illusion) has been produced. In her is entangled all life. There is one clay and many vessels, one enchantress is manifested in all. The Musalman Mian talks of slaying and making animals lawful food. How will he answer in God's court (dargdJi) ? He will go to hell (clozak). Let him kill nothing but his own evil appetites. Let him re- peat the pure Kalima ; let him, above all things, keep pity in his heart, so shall he reach the Merciful one and Paradise. The second any is on the Gurii (or spiritual guide). The Guru or Gurdeo should be saluted before Govind or God him- self, for he shows the way to Govind ; he lights the Sadh's torch with an inextinguishable light. * Family life is spoken of with the utmost contempt, as being unworthy of the true Sadh. He who regards the Guru as a mere man is as one who takes the elixir for water. He will be born a dog time after time. He will fall into hell. From God's anger there is a refuge ; from the Guru's none. The Gurii is greater than God, for God's works are on the wrong side of the ocean ; the Guru's have passed to the opposite shore. By his favour the clouds of love (prem) discharge their water, and suffuse the whole man. The third ang is on the Jatti (or one who has conquered his passions). Be a helper of others, desireless, yielding not to anger, resisting the six vices, looking on pain and ease as the same, regardless of food and drink, firm and persistent in worship, trusting in God (Bhagwari) and no other, calm, careful, and content, showing friendliness, and giving honour to all, being no respecter of persons. He who does thus will be always happy (prapMlat). Seek out such an one, and remain at his feet. The fourth ang is on the Sati (or pure and truthful one). Be full of serenity, knowledge, modesty, and persistency ; a flag of piety, wakeful and steady, so shall you be happy and joyous (modit parpMlaf). Knowledge is not pride, it gives love (het} for all; the pure and true one has regard for others (parsw&rthi}, and respect (ddar bkao) for them. The fifth ang is on Parmodh (or teaching). Let the mind seek instruction (parmodh} and exhortation (updes). Control it, and the world may learn of thee. But in a false path, robbed by the world, the mind uninstructed, thou art involved in the eighty-four lakhs of births ; then thou mayst teach others, and thyself fall in the dust, talking like a pundit, but unimpressed within. The sixth ang is on Man (or the mind). Follow not where thy mind would lead thee, restrain it and bring it back as a weaver the thread. No one carried away by mind can become a " Sadh." The true road is narrow, and the mind furtive and fickle ; punish it, force it back, restrain it and the five passions. They are five powerful enemies all combined against the soul alone. With them, how can you reach the shore in a boat frail as paper on a stream like the Ganges ? Aided by the five virtues calm, content, mercy, long-suffering, truth fix your attention on One alone. You who were doing well, why have you stopped? why have you repented ? If you sow poison, you will reap it. If you sow thorns, will you eat rich fruit ? The mind is as a deer which wanders into others fields. It takes all shapes ; it is fat, it is leau, it is water, it is fire, generous and covetous, king and pauper ; sometimes it mounts to heaveu, sometimes sinks down to hell. The mind is full of vice ; it seeks to please its taste ; it is careless, forgetful. It is a wild elephant wandering deep and far, unless it is doubly, triply, quadruply bound by the chain of love. If the mind is conquered all is conquered. It is a thief; it steals all wealth ; it watches, it evades me. It feigns honesty ; it leads away the body; it is as a horse carrying off a rider. It is covetous, lazy, trifling. Like charcoal, the more you wash it the blacker it is. After days of talk the mind remains uufreed, it takes no heed, it is still as on the first day. Consult your conscience (man mushriff}, accept what it approves, place the mind under a Sadb, make its contentions (Itkatpat) to cease, so shall you save your soul. The Guru is the washerman, the disciple the cloth, the Deity the soap. Washed on the washing-stone, endless dirt comes out. The seventh ang is on Krodh (or anger). Anger is on all sides like a fierce fire ; the world is a wooden house surrounded by it. Fly to the cool neighbourhood of Sadhs and escape. Useless as misers' hoards when stolen are clever contrivances. The poor in spirit (dlri), the devotee, he alone escapes. Abuse is the spark, rage the flame, scorn the smoke. Restrain these three and thou wilt gain God. The eighth ang is on Kskma (or long-suffering). Practise long-suffering and kill anger, then none can injure thee. Was Vishnu the worse for Bhrigu's kick (which he bore so patiently) ? Where anger exists there are the troubles of time ; where long-suffering is, there is the Lord himself. The ninth ang is on Chit kapati (or hypocrisy). Keep aloof from hypocrisy, which is as the pomegranate bud, with its red exterior and white heart. Seek not many friendships ; their fruit falls off when an adverse wind blows. Avoid those who have evil thoughts of others ; to backbite with friendship on the face is a sin. The field of hypocrisy will yield nothing, though mounds of seed be sown in it and torrents of rain fall. Hypocrisy has indeed the merit of cleverness, but the hypocrite is worse than the worldling. What good is there in a Sadh with deceit in his heart, though he bear four rosaries and though he humbly bend in worship ? Thus doth the game-killer bend as he runs to murder the deer. These three bend much the panther, the thief, the bow (all three murderous or mischievous). The tenth ang is on Mans ahari (or flesh-eating). Consider flesh-eaters demons (rdkas). Associate not with them ; they are the lowest caste, even beneath wine-drinkers. Flesh and fish eaters, i as well as those who love wine, will go to hell. No trace shall remaiu of such, nor of thieves, gamblers, and those who waste wealth on women. All flesh-eating is equally bad ; there is no distinction between fish, deer, and kine. It is dog's food, not man's ; they who eat it shall be cast into hell. All the four castes and thirty-six classes thus offend. Brahmins eat meat and die, calling on Ram. Sinners sit worshipping, and then eat flesh and drink wine. They mark out a place to eat in, they avoid a chumar's touch, and then they cook bones in their pot. To God's court they shall be dragged by the hair. Whether he believes it or not, he who kills shall be killed. Though he bestow in gifts thousands of cows, though he go and sacrifice himself at Benares, hell for him is sure. When was the Kazi authorised by the Merciful to destroy tokens of Himself? " The Kazi's son is dead ; is not his heart sore 1 That Lord is Father of all ; He cannot approve slaughter." " Kabir Kazi ka beta mu a Urmen sail pir Wa Sahib sab ka pit* Bhala na mane bir " " The fool thinks it not his own deed, He says my ancestors did it : But this blood is on thy neck, Whoever were thine instructors." " Apna kiya na sujhe ahmak, Kahe hamare baron kiya Yih to khun tumari gardan Jin tumko updes diya " The eleventh any is on Binti (or prayer). "Saith Kabir, I pray with folded hands, I pray, O Guide, full of kindness, hear me ; Give peace to the holy, Mercy, meekness, knowledge." " Kabir binwat hun kar jorke Sun Gur kirpa nidhdn Santon men sukh dijiye Ddya gharibi gyan." Hear, saints, for thus I pray Lord, restrain the demon of death (Jdm), who oppresses Thy slaves. For Thine own honour, protect those who seek Thy refuge. " Lord, with what face shall I pray ? I feel shame. How can I be pleasing to Thee ? I have done evil in Thy sight." " Sain kya mukh le binti karun Laj awat hai mohi Tuj dekliai augun kiya Kaisa bhaiin tohi." ( G7 ) " I am evil, I am evil, and Thou, Thou art good. Even then though I forsake Thee, do not Thou forsake me." " Kabir mujh augun tujh gun, Tujh gun augun mujh Jo main bisrun tujh kun, Tu mat bisre mujh." Forsake me not ; for though tens of thousands be met with, Thou art more to me than all, though I am to Thee nothing. Why should I sepa- rate from Thee and be destroyed ? Where can I take refuge ? Shib, Brahm, the Munis and all the Bishis, are not sufficient for me. Think not evil, then, against Thy servants ; a lord should be merciful and his servants loving. " I have greatly sinned, and I cease not from sinning. Thou canst spare me or destroy me ; but, O Father (bdpfi), kind to the meek, forgive my transgressions. Though a son be undutiful, yet a father (pita) feels shame for him." " Kabir augun kiya to bahu kiya Kart na man! har Bhawe banda bakshiye Bhawe gardan mar. Kabir augun mere, bapji Bakas gharlb nawaj Jo men put kaput hun Tohi pita ko laj." " God is full of good and free from evil, but if I search my heart I find it all evil." " Kabir Sain kere bahut gun Augun koi nahin Je dil khojun apna To sab augun mujh mahl" I am false ; God is true. " I have been sinful from my birth, vicious from top to toe. Thou art the Giver, the Deliverer ; may I escape to the refuge of God." " Kabir main apradhl janam ka Nakb, sakh bhara bikar Turn Data dukh banjna Sain saran ubar." Seize His arm lest thou be swept away in this ocean. " Other love is like a well, but Thine is like a sea. To me is the support of Thy name. Hear me, merciful 1" " Kabir aur prlt to kup hai Tuin ho samad saman Mohi tek tujh nam ki Suniyo kirpa nidlian." ( 68 ) A moment ago my Beloved (Pir) was far off. Take away my sin, God ! Destroy doubt and perplexity. " God is careful of me, though I am heedless ; I have neglected Him in mind, mouth, and deed, and therefore I am a fruitless field." " Kabir Sain mera sawdhan Main hiin bhaya achet Man bach karani na Har bhaje Taten nir phal khet." In my mind has been neither reliance nor love, nor has my body been under control. How then can my confidence in the approval of the Beloved one continue? Thou art powerful, my steps are feeble. I have accepted an evil condition, and have fallen under a burden. He to whom God has given confidence shall never be ashamed, daily shall his confi- dence increase. Iron joined to iron by the furnace becomes one piece without a seam, so may my mind, which comes of Thee, be united en- tirely with Thee. "Now, when I find God, weeping I will tell Him all my grief. With my head on His feet I will tell Him my tale. When I meet God, and He asks regarding my welfare, from beginning to end I will tell all, I will pour out my heart to Him." " Kabir abke jo Sain mile Sab dukh akhun roi Charnon lipar sir dhanin Kahun jo kahna hoi. " Kabir Sain to milenge Puchenge kusldt Adi ant ki sab kahun Ur antar ki bat." Thou knowest the heart, Thou supportest the soul. Without Thee I shall sink in the fathomless ocean of sense, but by Thy mercy and com- passion I shall cross to the other shore. The twelfth ang is on the S&dk (or monk). The Sadh is one God-loving, without vice, without desire, without foes. The true Sadh is rare, like the sandal amongst trees, like the pearl in the ocean, like the lion among beasts. Sacks full of rubies are not met with, nor are bands of true Sadhs. As the sandal-wood retains its coolness though covered with snakes, the Sadh remains holy though millions are unholy. To him who knows God, sport and jesting are unlawful. Illusion, temples, and women they avoid. As the lion shuns the dead carcase, so the Sadh, the spiritual carrion ; as the lotus on the river, so the Sadh in the world ; as the moonlight shines in the water, but is not of it, so the Sadh amongst men. ( 09 ) The fourth lok (or highest heaven) is great and mysterious, but the Sadh reaches even the fifth, the abode of God. The way of the Sadh is like the edge of a sword, like climbing a lofty palm. It is good for Sadhs to sit still. Though running water is pure, and stagnant often foul, yet stagnant water is pure too if it be somewhat deep. What is the Sadh's sport? Where do his thoughts wander ? What is the fountain of immortality? What is the wound of the sword? Long-suffering is the Sadh's sport, his thoughts wander in goodness. God is the fountain of immortality, the Word gives the sword's wound. " When the earth and sky disappear and the mountains be destroyed ; When all is rolled together, where will God's servant dwell ? Let all be rolled together, let the mountains be destroyed. Let earth and sky disappear, in Me is my servant." " Kabir dharti ambar jaenge Biusenge Kaulas Ekam eka hoigi Tab Kahan rahenge das " " Kabir ekam eka hon de Binsan de Kaulas Dharti ambar jan de Homeu mera das." Parcka (or union) is the last ang. (This is on the highest of spiritual conditions, that of complete union with God.) When thought and sight are one (surat, nirat), when all sorrow has passed away, for love has dis- closed the Merciful One. Now there is perpetual spring, the water of immortality flows, the lotus blooms, the bright light shines, the Beloved One is reached. (The subject of union is dwelt upon at considerable length with much ecstatic fervour.) There are two small mak&ns of DAdu pantkis in Ulwur, and a large and wealthy one at Rajgarh, but the sect will be more properly described in the " Gazetteer of Jaipur," where the persuasion took its rise, and where, at least, the military portion is very important. The Satnamfs, who have a makdn in Ulwur, are likewise a Jaipur sect, for the founder first taught at Kasli, near Sikar. Both the Dadii- panthis and Satnamfs are offshoots of Kabi'r's sect. The Mohan Panthfs, a Deccan sect, and the Parnamis, a Gujarat one, and Ram Snehis an Ajmir sect of some note, are also represented in Ulwur, but are unim- portant. There are five considerable temples of Jains and Saraogis in the city, and about 400 families. Half are said to be Agarwalas, and about half the remainder Khandelwals, the rest Uswals and Sahalwals, all trading castes. ( 70 ) About six years ago, during the excitement caused by the interposi- tion of the British Government between the Chief and his Thiikurs, an attempt by a Vishnu fanatic to take possession of a Saraogi temple at Rajgarh was made; and, as the Saraogis were weak and somewhat depressed, it would probably have been successful, had not the Political Agent and leading Thakurs insisted on the Vishnawis leaving the temple. Since then the Saraogis have held their heads higher than formerly, but they are quite inoffensive. However, there is, no doubt, a strong feeling of animosity in Ulwur between Saraogis and Hindus stronger, it is said, than that which exists between Hindu and Musalman, or between Shiah and Sonnee, or Vishniiite and Shivite. The great majority of the Musalmans of Ulwur are Meos ; but, as already remarked (see Meos), they are in their habits half Hindu. In their villages they seldom have mosques, thus in Tijara, out of fifty-two Meo villages, only eight have mosques, but almost always they have the same places of worship, temples excepted, as their Hindu neighbours possess namely, a " Pdnch Pira" a " Bhaiya" and a "Ckakund." The " Panch Pira," found everywhere in Mewat, in both Hindu and Meo villages, is a spot consecrated to the five chief Musalman saints, to whom the Hindus are perhaps attracted, because their number tallies with the " Pdnch Than" or deities of their own worship. The Pdnch Pira place is marked by a stone set up near a tank. The Bhaiya consists of a platform, with stones placed on it so as to protect a lamp. It is also called the Bhomia, and is sacred to the guardian spirit of the locality. The Chahund or Khera Deo, a similar platform, is devoted to Maha Devf, at whose shrine bloody sacrifices are made. Their great Musalman saint is Salar Masaud, who was, it appears, the son of one of Sultan Mahmiid Ghaznf s chief generals. His tomb at Bahraich, in Oudh, is the Meo's grand shrine ; and even here they remain connected with Hindus, some castes of which look upon this tomb as their chief object of reverence.* A biography of the saint, called " Mirat- i-Masaiid," is extant, and copious extracts from it are to be found trans- lated in Elliot's " Musalman Historians," vol. ii. p. 513. The banner, or " Saldr" of Masaud is worshipped in every Meo village at the Shab-i-rat ; and the right of making or of sharing in the offerings to it pertains to the low-caste servants of the village proprietors. It has, however, rivals in the flag of Madar Sahib, a saint of Makanpur, near Allygarh, and that of the Khwaja Sahib from Ajmir, which go round to certain villages to collect money. The Saldr flag often has a figure upon it, but the others have not, and are more strictly of the religious colour. A boundary dispute is often settled, with the consent of both parties, by a Meo taking a Saldr in his hand and walking along what in his opinion should be the border line. * Vide Sherriug's Hindoo Tribes, p. 300. ( 71 ) The Saiyads of Khairthal and Bahadarpur, and of one or two other villages, the Musalman Rajputs of Mandawar, the Khanzadas, and other Musalmans in the service of the State, and a few Khanzada proprietors, form the respectable Musalman population. The old buildings in the neighbourhood of Tijara, Ulwur, and elsewhere, testify to the wealth of Musalmans when Pathans, Khanzadas, or Mughals ruled the country, and when Miillas of great note resided at Ulwur (see page 11) ; but there are no considerable Musalman buildings of recent construction, nor any teachers of note, though often an itinerant preacher comes and stays a while to preach and make a purse, and sometimes he is a man of some note. Once lately a Wahabi teacher came, but his doctrine was distaste- ful. He gave much offence, and met with no encouragement. The Sheeahs are in a very small minority, but they possess one mosque in the city, where there are twelve altogether. They get on well enough with the Soonees, and the two sects often intermarry. Fairs are, I believe, always held ostensibly for some religious purpose, except when established by British authority, so it is un- Fairs and necessary to attempt the separation of the religious and commercial. The following are the principal : City of Ulwur, the Ganger, and the Sawan tij, well-known festivals in honour of Mahadevi, held in March and August. One to Jaganath in Asarh (July); one to Sahibji (God?), a shrine near the city, on the Tijara road. Chuhar Sidh, in the Dehra pargana, eight miles north-west of the city, on the Shiv Ratri festival in February. It is held in . honour of a Meo saint (see below). Bilalf, in Bansur, on the Jaipur border, in Chait and Baisakh (March and April) x in honour of Sitla Devi (the smallpox deity). Rajgarh, Jaganath's festival in Asarh (July). Silleserh. The lake eight miles from Ulwur, in Baisakh (March), in honour of Sitla Devi. Kundalka, in Thana Ghazf, in honour of BhartaH, in Baisakh and Bhadon (March and August). Ghasaoli, in Kishengarh, in honour of Sahibji (God ?), in Bhadon (August). Palpur, in Kishengarh, Mali, Baisdkh, Jeth (December, March, June), in honour of Sitla. Dahmf, in Bahror, in months of Chait and Asoj (March and October), in honour of Devi. At Macherf, in Rajgarh, during Chait (March), in honour of Devi. Barwa dungri, Baldeogarh, in Thana Ghazi, in honour of Narayanf, during Baisakh. Sherpur, in Ramgarh, in Asoj, Asarh, and Magh, in honour of Lai Das, regarding whose shrines see pp. 153, 154, 157; regarding Charau Dasf's shrines see p. 60. ( 72 ) Of the above, the most important are the Ulwur fairs, aud those at BilaH and Chuhar Sidh. It is said that 80,000 persons assemble at each of the two latter. BilaH is on the Jaipur border, and attracts probably more people from Jaipur than from Ulwur territory. But Chuhar Sidh is in the heart of the State, in a range of hills west of the city, and has some special interest as being the chief fair of Mewat. It is attended chiefly by Meos ; and the presentation of the offerings, the vast, though not very lively, crowd, the trafficking, and the beggars, are a curious sight. So necessary is attend- ance at it considered, that many villages own a few yards of encamping- ground on the hillside near the shrine, which is situated high up among the hills, beside a stream which, usually only a rill, in the rains acquires a considerable volume, and is regarded with much veneration by the Meos. Chuhar Sidh is said to have been the son of a Meo by a Nai woman, and to have flourished in the reign of Aurangzeb. He was born at village Dhaneta, and left home through fear of the tax collectors, who were torturing people to obtain revenue. He gained his living by watch- ing cornfields and grazing cattle in villages near the city of Ulwur, and is said to have received the power of working miracles from the Musalmau saint, Shah Madar, whom he accidentally met. Eventually he took up his residence on the site of the present shrine. Unlike Lai Das, he does not seem to have been a teacher ; but his shrine attracts more pilgrims than any of those sacred to Lai Das. In 1875 a curious example occurred of the mode in which new places of pilgrimage become established. The Tahsildar of Ramgarh, a very intelligent man, relates that at village Jahanpur, after the commencement of the rains, water began to flow from underground into a tank which had before been dry. The Hindus declared it was the subterranean Ganges, and the Meos that it was the Chuhar Sidh. The water was pronounced to have healing properties, and in a very few days people flocked to bathe in it. From every house in the town of Ramgarh, about eight miles off, per- sons went to the holy spot ; and" people came not only from the neighbour- hood, but from Narnol, Gurgaon, Bhartpur, and even Hatras and Aligarh. On July the 18th, that is, not a mouth after the discovery of the wonder, the Tahsildar visited the spot. He found " thousands of men going and hundreds returning from the so-called Ganges." Many of the visitors left after bathing and securing a store of the precious water to carry away with them ; but the Tahsildar found more than 10,000 present with 200 carts (bailis), besides horses and camels. The bathers in the tank, which was about half an acre in extent, were blind and diseased persons chiefly, and they " were so strong and firm in their belief that they fell one on the other to take a dip in the fountain, as if they would surely succeed in their longings." The blind were said to be especially benefited ; and the Tahsildar interrogated more than one who declared he had derived great advantage from the water ( 73 ) EDUCATION. The late Maharao Rajd Sheodan Singh deserves the credit of having instituted a school cess of one per cent, on the land revenue, and of having established village and Tahsilf schools, which in A.D. 1870 were said to contain 2200 students. Bat this cess, after all educational expenses had been defrayed, yielded the Maharao Raja an annual profit of Rs. 5500, and the schools were much neglected. On the establishment of the Council of Administration in A.D. 1870, the educational department was reorganised, and efforts made to infuse life into the schools, which much needed it. The Ulwur High School was established by the late Maharao Raja Banni Singh in A.D. 1842. It was formerly located in the cenotaph of Maharao Raja Bakhtawar Singh, whence it was removed in November 1873 to a fine and suitable building erected for it just outside the principal gate of the city. The number of boys belonging to it was 310 in December 1875. No boys from it have as yet passed the University entrance exami- nation, but it is progressing satisfactorily. In January 1871 the Thakurs' school was established for the sons of Thakurs and other native gentlemen. There are 86 boys in it, and a boarding-house is attached, wherein 20 boys are lodged. Admission to the Thakurs' school is regulated by the Council of Administration. There are 11 Tahsili schools, in two of which those of Tijara and Rajgarh English is taught. In the Tahsili schools it is proposed to place small libraries. The village schools number 84. A small normal school for village schoolmasters has been established, and three standards of proficiency arranged. But little has been as yet done by the normal school. The village schoolmasters are in three grades, and receive from Rs. 5 to Rs. 15. Surveying with the plane table is to be taught in some of the village schools, and the practical approximate object aimed at is gradually to place the cultivators less at the mercy of the Patwarrees. There are some girls' schools, but of their condition little is known. In 1874 fees were for the first time levied in all but the Thakurs' school, from boys whose parents did not contribute to the one per cent, fund. The effect was to reduce the students largely. But at the end of 1875 there were 3124 boys belonging to the schools, which is within ten per cent, of the number on the rolls before fees were taken. The expenditure on education for 1874-75 was Rs. 34,292, of which Rs. 19,240 was contributed by the one per cent. fund. Indigenous schools called " chatsals " and "maktabs" the first Hindi, the last Persian exist. There are in the city 20 chatsdls and 11 maktabs, with an average attendance of 18 and 11 respectively. Chatsals mostly only teach the multiplication table and first two rules of arithmetic. A few teach the first four rules and single rule of three, K but none use books. Reading and writing is taught on " pattas," or pieces of boards. In maktabs Persian primers (inchas), the Karima, and Gulistau are taught ; also elementary Persian grammar and letter- writing, and in some the Bostciu and Anwari Suheli are read, but no arithmetic at all is taught. LITERATURE. Of late years the number of shops where books are sold has increased, and there are now five in the city of Ulwur. They obtain their supplies of books from Dehli. None are exclusively bookshops, and I cannot discover that the total number of books sold is greater than it was six years ago. Apparently the popular literature shows little trace of European educational influence. A very few books directly due to British action find a place in the bookstalls, but none of them sell readily. Perhaps a fuller examination than I have made would reveal a greater effect than is readily apparent, although not always directly favourable to progress. Thus the introduction to a rather voluminous but easy abstract in Hindi of a Purau not of Ulwur authorship, but recommended by an Ulwur Pundit urges that young Hindus should receive the same early intelli- gent training in the tenets of their religion which young Christians obtain in theirs ; and the book in question was intended as an aid to that train- ing. Setting aside the elementary educational books, those most sold at the shops are romances in which Rajas figure (" Hordhaj " is a type of this class), accounts of wonder-working devotees like the " Pahldd Chari- tra" astrological books like the " Sanichar ki Katha" and religious like " The Thousand Names of Vishnu." I do not know of any printed copies of the bdnis and gutkas already spoken of, nor of the local poems I have mentioned (page 15, note). Those families who have preserved old diaries and note-books such as some alluded to (pages 11, 130) have not induce- ment nor inclination to print their books. Munshi Kanji Mai, inspector of schools, was kind enough to compile for me a list perhaps not quite complete of the works produced at Ulwur within his recollection. Most were written in hopes of reward from the Chief. They are nineteen in number, but only four have been printed or lithographed ; * the rest are in manuscript. None can be called popular. * The printed ones are (1.) The Gal Prakash, a treatise on plane and spherical trigonometry, by Nildmbar Ojha, one of the chief Jotishis of the State. Printed at Benares. (2.) The Sheodan Bakht Bilas, a poem in praise of M. R. Sheodan Singh, by a Raj Brahmin. Lithographed at the Raj Press. (3.) Sharh Dasatir, a translation of a Parsee sacred book, by Mulvi Najaf All, formerly in the Ulwur service. (4.) Risdla Shatranj, a treatise on chess, by Hakim Surtdn Singh, of the Raj service. Among the manuscript poems, there is one on the battle of Alaonda, one on Banni Singh and Balwant Singh's contest, and a third on the " Rdm dal" of 1870. ( 75 ) The contents of the library of a literary Thakur will give a good idea of the popular taste. The one of which I obtained a description consisted of fifty-seven Hindi books. It had no Sanscrit ; for the Thakur, although something of a poet himself, had no knowledge of any language but his own vernacular. Seventeen of these books were on the art of ornamental and correct writing of the various kinds of verse. The " Kabi Priya" (the poet's friend) and " Brind sat sai" (the 700 verses of Blind, showing every kind of metre) are types of this class. Eleven books were on the emotions and passions (the sexual more es- pecially), and on the characteristics of women, as " Ras Rdj" (the chief of the emotions), "Ras ratan" (the jewel of emotion). Seven were biographical or epic poems, as the Pirthwi Raj Rdsa, Sujan Ckaritr (acts of Suraj Mai of Bhartpur). There were four romances about benevolent Rajas, distressed Brah- mins ; three dictionaries or encyclopaedias, as " Guldb Kos (the treasury of Gulab), three miscellaneous selections (phut-kdr), two on singing, two on wisdom (gydri), a play called Hir Ranja ko Kkiydl (Hir was a Raja of Hazara, who, as a Fakir, won Hir, daughter of the Raja of Jhang Siyal), a riddle-book, and a jest-book (tarak tarowar). There were a few standard works besides, such as the Rdmayan, the Prem Sdgar, &c. With two exceptions, the Kaiwdt and Prem Sdgar, all were in verse, even the dictionaries ; and, with two exceptions, all were in Pingal or Eastern poetic dialect ; those two exceptions were in the Dingal or Western dialect, prevalent in Marwar and Ajmfr. Major Cadell discovered, three years ago, that the multitude of obscene books which were in circulation was one of the causes of the dislike among respectable natives to female education. Steps were taken to repress the sale of such books in Ulwur, and representations were made which drew attention to the matter elsewhere. CHAPTER IV. MUNICIPALITIES. WITHIN the last four years municipalities have been established in the towns of Ulwur, Rajgarh, and Tijara. The members are partly official, partly non-official. Octroi dues are found more popular than a house-tax, which was for- merly levied. The rates are the same for the three municipalities. The Council examines the annual budget of each year before its commence- ment and the report on work done at the end. The octroi rates and revenue for 1874-75 and the trade of the three towns is shown below Ulwur. Rajgarh. Tijara. No. ARTICLES. Duty per Maund. P; I a | 3 Q 3 a Q | a < < o a on RS. 7 a month. On R. 4 a month, border, a very bad Jaipur village J ... ... 8 (23) Got (Rdjgarh), cart-road between Rdjgarh and Baswa, in Jaipur . . . . ... ... 4 (24) Chhind (Rdjgarh), bridle-path between Rdj- garh and Reni . . . . ... ... 6 (25) Mdcheri Ghatta (Rdjgarh), bridle-path be- Rdjgarh and Mdcheri . . . ... ... 4 (26) Adoka (Rdjgarh), cart-road between Rajgarh and Lachmangarh . . . . ... ... 4 These guards occasionally recover stolen cattle, but their duties are not now onerous. After the departure of Captain Impey, the roads were much neglected, but were taken vigorously in hand on the establishment of the Council of Administration in 1870. Major Cadell devised a complete system of railway feeders, and in the beginning of 1876 their condition was as follows : (1) Ulwur to Bhartpore boundary, vid Behdla and Baroda, twenty-three miles. Road completely finished and metalled, and works carried out in excellent style. (2) Ulwur to Gurgdon district, vid Rdmgarh and Nogaon. Earthwork will be finished before rains. (3) Ulwur to Kishengarh. Earthwork completed. (4) Khairthal, vid Kishengarh to Tijdra, about four miles metalled. Earthwork on remainder completed, arid most of the " kankar " collected. The road may be finished before the rains. (5) Tijdra, towards Firozpur Jhirka. Earthwork will be finished before rains ; one bridge built. (6) Lachmangarh, vid Mojpur to Mdla Khera, giving access to stone quarries. Four miles earthwork completed ; remainder of earthwork about two-thirds done, and will be finished before rains. (7) Mojpur to Rdjgarh. Will be commenced when No. 6 is finished. (8) Khairtal to Harsora, Bahror, and Bdnsur. Work not commenced. (9) Mdla Khera to Ghdzi kd Thdna. This road would pass through such a diffi- cult country, that, instead of it, one is contemplated from Bdnsur, vid Narainpur, Ghdzl kd Thdna, and Ajabgarh, to the Jaipur border on the way to Dowsa, thereby opening up the tract of country to the west of the hills. No definite resolution has, however, yet been come to, the question being still under consideration. MINES, QUARRIES, AND MINERALS. Of the iron Major Cadell wrote in 1873 : There are now thirty iron-smelting furnaces at work in the State, and they yield about 15,000 maunds, or 536 tons, of iron per annum. Each furnace is filled and emptied once in twenty-four hours, the " shoree " (or bloom ball, as puddlers would call the lump of iron) being taken out of the furnace about twenty hours after the fire is lighted and the bellows commence to blow, the remaining four hours being taken up in inserting new " twyere " pipes, repairing damages, and reloading the furnace. The building is simply composed of a centre wall built of mud and stone, or sun-dried bricks plastered with a mixture of earth and cow-dung. In front of this wall the smelting-furnace is placed. The following plans and sections show the construction and dimensions of the stnel ting-furnace Vertical Section. Base. 11' //" 1'5" 11" It takes thirteen maunds (520 Ibs.) of iron ore and eleven maunds (440 Ibs.) of charcoal to load the furnace, the ore and charcoal being put on in alternate layers. Before loading the furnace, an earthern twyere pipe is inserted from the back of the wall into the furnace, and two bellows, worked generally by women and children, are inserted into the twyere. A fresh twyere pipe is used with each load ; and when all but two inches of it is burnt away, it is known that the iron has collected into a mass at the bottom of the furnace. The natives call this lump of iron a "shoree." Prior to removing it, the clay with which the lower part of the furnace is covered in (marked A in the above plan) is broken through. The burning charcoal having been raked out, the " shoree " is drawn out in a state of red heat by two men. The " shoree " is cut in two imme- diately on its withdrawal and while still red-hot. A deep incision is first made into it by two men with sharp-edged hammers ; a wedge is then inserted, and the lump, which generally weighs from 3 to 2 maunds (200 to 280 Ibs.), is speedily severed with the assistance of four hammermen. The two halves are then placed in the refining or puddling furnace, and after being brought to a white heat, are taken out, and cut and beaten with hammers into pieces by the men. The following is an estimate of the cost of working each furnace load ; and it may be mentioned that the fractions of a rupee are shown in decimals in place of in " annas " and " pies," as is usually done : Smelting Furnace. Thirteen maunds ore (9 cwt. 2 Ibs.) are, at twelve maunds per rupee ... . Breaking up and loading ditto . Eleven maunds charcoal, at four maunds per rupee One skilled labourer, for tapping furnace . Bellows labourers . . . . . One twyere pipe Breaking up " shoree," or bloom ball . Water-carrier ..... Wear and tear of bellows Rupees. I -09 09 2-75 20 34 03 06 03 25 Total 4-84 L ( 82 ) Refining or Puddling furnace. Rupees. One skilled labourer ......... '82 Bellows blowers and hammermen ...... 1 '40 Water-carrier .......... '03 Twyere pipe .......... '03 Six maunds charcoal, at four inaunds per rupee . . . . 1 -50 Total 3-78 Grand Total . . 8'62 As the furnaces cannot be worked during the rainy season, an average of only about 200 loads is turned out per annum. The yield of each load being, as already stated, 2 1 maunds (200 Ibs.), the total annual out-turn of each furnace is 500 maunds (17 tons), which, at the rate of Rs. 4 per maund (Rs. 112 per ton), realises Rs. 2000. The expenditure of the furnace-men, as estimated by themselves, is as follows : Rupees. Working expenses of 200 loads, at Rs. 8'62 per load . . . 1724 Royalty to the State 200 Miscellaneous dues , . 37 Total . . . 1961 This would only give a clear profit of Rs. 39 per annum ; but the expenditure is overstated, and the real profit may be estimated at Rs. 100. Even this profit is very small, but it must be taken into account that almost the whole of the wages go to the families of the furnace-men, whose wives and children are employed on the works. Those families number between sixty and seventy souls per furnace ; and, in addition to what they earn by this employment, they derive considerable profit from the land, amounting to about 70 acres per furnace, which they cultivate at the rent prevalent in the district. There seem to have been a few more furnaces in 1875 than when Major Cadell wrote. Further general facts will be found at page 183. Ulwur iron is said to be malleable and soft as compared with English iron, which is more brittle, and, consequently, the former is preferred for culinary and wood-cutting purposes. One kind of imported iron, called " kheri," is, however, thought better than the country, but is twice the cost. English iron is used for fine work, such as door-hinges, carriages, &c., as it is much neater than country iron. The furnaces are in the southern part of the State, chiefly at Rajgarh, Tahla, and Baleta. Of copper Major Cadell wrote : " The richest copper-mine in the Ulwur State is that of the Darlba Hill, situated in Co er 76 26' 20" E. longitude and 27 9' 40" N. latitude ; but copper ore is found in many other parts of the branch of the Aravelli Hills, which traverse the State from south to north ; and several ancient copper-mines are to be found which were worked and abandoned centuries ago." It is, however, found only in " pockets," not in continuous veins, so that it can never become greatly profitable. ( 83 ) The mode in which copper is manufactured may shortly be described as follows : The manufacture is carried on in thatched sheds, which are generally in a very dilapidated state. The ore is chipped out of the solid rock with hammer and chisel ; and, having been beaten with hammers into powder, is mixed with double its weight of powdered iron slag. This mixture is then made into small cakes with an equal quantity of cow-dung ; and, after being roasted in a fire made of grass and cow-dung, is placed, like the iron ore, in the smelting-furnace, in alternate layers with charcoal When the ore is melted, the furnace cylinder is broken down, and the mass of copper which has collected at the bottom, after being allowed to cool, is lifted out. It is then taken to another shed, and is placed in an open charcoal fire, where it is melted a second time with the aid of the bellows, which is worked by two men standing, and which is opened and closed at the proper moment by the man who also attends to the fire. It is then poured into a mould in bars, and out of these bars the copper currency of the State is coined.* The following is an estimate of the cost of turning out one furnace-load : Rupees. 30 Ibs. copper ore . . . . . . . , . , - . -31 120 Ibs. charcoal '38 Breaking up ore ......... '06 Breaking ore into cakes with iron slag and cow-dung . . .' '12 One skilled workman . . . . . . '. '19 Bellows men . . . , . w . -13 Refining '06 Total Rupees . . 1'25 Those 30 Ibs. of ore yield 5 Ibs. of copper, that is 16 -6 per cent. The average annual out-turn of copper during the last twelve years has been only 85 T 7 ^ maunds (3 tons 8 cwt.), and it is becoming less year by year, owing to the influx of copper from Europe and of British India copper coin. The value of the indigenous copper has greatly diminished. The State takes one-third of the copper as royalty. Thirty-two families, comprising eighty-eight men, women, and children, derive their principal means of subsistence from this industry ; and during the rainy season, when the furnaces are not worked, they cultivate twenty-two acres of land. A small quantity of sulphate of copper and of sulphate of iron is manu- factured out of the water found in the Dariba mine. " Lead is found at a place called Jodhawas, near Thana Ghdzi. The mines have not been worked for a great number of years, as they were not remuuerative. They are now being re-opened; and in an analysis made by Colonel Dickens, the ore, which is an argen- tiferous galena, yielded eighty per cent, of lead and one per cent, of silver." Perhaps the finest white statuary marble obtainable in India is ex- cavated at Jhirri, in the south-west of the State, in the Partapgarh pargaua of the Thana Ghazf Tahsil. The quarries extend at intervals for two miles along the foot of a range of hills, and are nowhere deep like the marble quarries of Makrana in * Since this was written, British coiu has superseded it, as explained elsewhere. ( 84 ) Marwar. Besides these Makrana quarries, which compete with Jhirri, there are quarries at Raiwala, iu Jaipur territory, seven miles from Jhirri, and nearer the railway. At present only two families work the Jhirri quarries, while at Raiwala there are one hundred families, and at Mak- rana (according to a note made there in 1868) one hundred and twenty. At Jliirri I was told that the Makrana stone was not so hard and so finely crystallised as the Jhirri stone. It has to be raised higher, and that adds to its cost, but its comparative softness renders the manufacture of images at Makrana much easier than at Jhirri. The Raiwala stone is said to be weaker than the Jhirri, iis less pure (has more " barbati" in it), and does not ring like the Jhirri stone ; and when unusually fine pieces are required by the stone-workers at Dehli, they send their orders to Jhirri. However, the demand for stones of beauty is not great, and four cartloads of stone are said to be the average annual amount sent for transport to Dehli to the nearest railway station that of Dosah on the Jaipur and Agra line. A six-bullock cart will contain 40 maunds ; a four-bullock cart, 30 maunds ; a two-bullock cart, 12 maunds. This shows the traction power of the country bullock, and that the amount of stone sent from Jhirri to Dehli is probably at present under 150 maunds. The cost of the Jhirri undressed stone is at the quarries 3 maunds the rupee when sold to the State ; 4J maunds the rupee when sold to the public. An arch of the ordinary " tirbarah " shape, consisting of two pillars and a toothed crosspiece, and 6| ft. by 7 ft., costs about Rs. 20. A liberal price for a " chauki," or low seat, 12 in. square, 3 finger-breadths thick, with four feet, standing 1 span high, is Rs. 10. An unpolished basin, 8 in. in diameter, costs Rs. 1. Images ordinarily from Rs. 5 to Rs. 20, but often much more. The customs contractor takes 2 annas on each Jhirri stone-cart going out of the State, 1 annas for each going to a point within the State. Very large pieces of stone are not now often excavated at Jhirri, but formerly noble monolithic pillars have been manufactured there. Those of the "Am Kh&ss" hall, in the Ulwur city palace, are from Jhirri ; and when Bhangarh, only sixteen miles off, was a prosperous town, and the capital of the district, it must, as its remains show, have given much work to the Jhirri quarrymen. White marble is also found near Dadikar, six miles behind the Ulwur Fort, and perhaps in other parts of the State, though probably not in uncleft pieces large enough for anything but chunam. Black marble is found at Mandla, near Ramgarh, about sixteen miles east of Ulwur. Fine slabs, four feet square, can be obtained, Black marble. , , . \ ' but the quarries as yet have been but little worked. A pink marble (guldbi pathar} is excavated at Baldeogarh in the south. Fine pieces, large enough for images nearly life size, have Pink marble. , , fe , . ..,,. J , been extracted ; but there is little demand for the stone, and but one family of quarrymen depend upon it. ( 85 ) A very fine white sandstone, suitable for the best ashlar masonry, for pillars, rollers, vessels, &c., is obtained. The most important quarries lie in the double range of hills which run south- west from Ghat on the Rupparel. It is much used for railway and canal works. But stone of the same character is also found at Mokanpura in Bansiir, and Mandla in Ramgarh. Slabs of grey metamorphic sandstone, used for roofing, flooring, &c., are quarried at Berla, in the above-mentioned range, at Rajgarh, Chandala in Rajgarh, where the slabs are very long ; at Kho Dariba, near Baldeogarh, mentioned above ; at Kerwarf, the most important of the slab quarries, because near the Khairthal Railway station ; at Todiar, near Ulwur ; at Ajabgarh, to the south-west; at Mandawar, to the north. Slates are found at Bilaspur, in Ramgarh, but at Mandan, in the north-west corner of the State, is the chief source of supply. Qlnfgg There large slabs of slate are also produced. But there are only a few families of workmen. Slates are only in demand for railway works, churches, schools, and other European buildings. A cart, con- taining 16 maunds or 132 large slates, from Mandan to the railway at Bawal, costs Rs. 2, except in the rains, when it is Rs. 3. The price of the Jhirri marble has been already detailed ; the prices of the stone and stone-work elsewhere is as fol- lows : Ashlar at Bharkol, &c., in the Ghat range, about 3 maunds the rupee. Slabs at Kerwari, &c., 8 maunds the rupee, or Rs. 1 a slab 3 ft. by 9 ft. Slates at Mandan, Rs. 5 the 100 slates 1 ft. by 2 ft. At Ulwur they are sold at Rs. 8 the 100. The stone is cut with difficulty. Black marble at Maudla, about 3| maunds the rupee. Images of pink marble at Baldeogarh cost from Rs. 10 to Rs. 100 according to size and work. At Butoli, in Ghat range A kundi, or rough saucer, costs ^ anna. Udala, or rough milk vessel, 5 annas. A kolhu (sugar or oil press), or a gairat (mortar roller), 10 maunds in weight, R.s. 4. A chdk, or potter's wheel, Rs. 2. A ddsa, or threshold-stone, 2 ft. long, Rs. 1. A chaukat, or door and window frame, Rs. 1-4. Sardal, or slab over doorway, Rs. 1-4. Todl, or bracket, 4 or 5 per rupee. Tirbdra, consisting of three small arches with pillars, Rs. 12 or Rs. 14. The State duty or royalty on stone varies from Rs. 1 to 4 per 100 maunds of fine sandstone. Rs. 1 is taken per 100 slates, 4 annas a maund st&te charge* on the Baldeogarh pink marble ; about 2 annas a piece on the mill- on "tone, stones manufactured at BhAngarh (Thana Gbazf), Bharkol (Ghat range), Choreti (near Ulwur). The charge on Jhirri stone has been specified. ( 86 ) Salt is not extracted from wells, as in some of the Blmrtpur salt- works, nor from lakes, as in the States to the west, but O-il. / / * saline earth is collected, and water from wells turned on to it, and then drained off into the ordinary pans called " &gars" In 1875 there were seventy-seven dgars ; and the monopoly of the manufacture for twelve months was sold that year for Rs. 3220. About 50,000 maunds are, it is said, annually produced, which are sold at about Rs. 22 the 100 maunds, without the State custom dues. The latter are the same for the local as for the imported salt, though the latter is much the best. Saltpetre is obtained in the same manner as salt, and the yield is Saltpetre. about 400 or 500 maunds. From the salts extracted from the earth at Desiila and Agiara, a few miles east of the city, a coarse glass is manufactured, from which bracelets (ckiiris} and rough bottles are made. CHAPTER V. AGRICULTURE. As a field survey of only the fiscal villages, i.e., of about five-sixths of the area of the State, was made, a complete soil and crop statement cannot be furnished. Statistics regarding soils, &c., but of fiscal villages only, will be found at pages 187, 188. They show that fifty-five per cent, of the whole is cultivated. Of the cultivated area twenty-three per cent, is irrigated, and five per cent, bears two crops in the year. The following figures show approximately the relative proportions of the areas covered by the crops chiefly grown : Crops and tillage. Bajra . . '331 of the whole cultivated area. Barley . . -119 Jawar . . -089 Gram . . -071 Cotton . . -069 Indian-corn . . . '023 Wheat . . -021 Sarson . . "007 Miscellaneous . . '276 chiefly pulses. In this computation the double-cropped land has been counted twice, in order that the crops for one whole year might be taken into account. The land under sugar-cane was about 2000 acres, that under tobacco about 1200, and the opium only about 450 ; but as the survey was made preparatory to assessment, the people had, no doubt, devoted a smaller area than usual to these valuable crops. The average yield of b&jra land (unirrigated) varies from 1 to 5 maunds the rdj bigha (two-fifths of an acre), according to soil. Usually several pulses are grown with the bAjra, and make up about a third of the above esti- mate, though sometimes, owing to the character of the season, the yield of pulse greatly exceeds that of bdjra grown with it. Irrigated barley has been estimated at from 4 to 14 maunds the bigha, gram (unirrigated) at 4 to 12 maunds, cotton (irrigated) at 1 to 5 maunds (including seed). ( 88 ) For more about, crops, see " Rent- rates." To prepare land for the kharif crops in unirrigated land, one or two ploughings before the rains are advantageous, not only that the rain may be more readily absorbed, but often that the drift sand, which has strengthening properties, may be caught in the furrows. For sugar-cane preparations begin in November, when the land is first ploughed, an operation which is repeated six or seven times before the ground is planted in February. Cotton is sown in March ; all the other important kharif crops after the rains begin. Cotton is said to require one ploughing after beginning of rains ; bajra and common pulses, two ; and Jawar, three. For the Rabi, wheat requires five, barley four ploughings. Two men and one yoke of bullocks can plough a Raj bigha (two-fifths of an acre) a day, and about thirty bighas a season. When ploughing is paid for, the charge is about one rupee a day for the Rabf and something less for the kharif. The first day of ploughing after the rains begin is a village festival, and called the " halsotia." Omens being favourable, the villagers pro- ceed to the fields, each householder carrying a new earthen pot, coloured with turmeric and full of bajra. Looking to the north, they make an obeisance to the earth, and then a selected man ploughs five furrows. The ploughman's hands and the bullocks' feet are rubbed with mendi, and the former receives a dinner of delicacies. Sowing and The see( * required for a Raj bfgha, or a day's ploughing, weeding. i s as follows : A bajra crop . . .1 seer, or a little more. Jawar . . . .3 seers. Charf . . . 10 to 20 Inferior kharif pulses . . 3 ,, Wheat and barley . . 20 Gram . . . . 15 Wednesday is generally thought the auspicious day to begin sowing. Jawar ) bajra, and inferior pulse crops are each weeded but once ; cotton, three times ; wheat and barley, once or twice ; chari and gram, not at all. Shortly after bajra wcAjawar have been weeded, a plough is usually passed between the furrows to loosen the soil. One man can weed about a quarter of a Raj bfgha a day. One man can reap about five biswas (twentieths) of a raj bfgha of wheat or barley, seven biswas of a bfgha of jawar. half a Reaping (laoni). ,,-, n i,~ T- n-j LI v. bfgha of bajra. Reapers are usually paid partly in cash, partly in corn. The cost of reaping a field is generally reckoned a twentieth part of its total yield. Superintendent Ram Gopal, estimated the cost of cultivating 210 Raj bfghas of barley thus ( 89 ) Rupees. Ploughing . . . . . .16 Seed ....... 20 'Implements . . . . . .12 Weeding . . . . . . .10 Reaping ....... 10 Irrigation from well . . . . .64 Blacksmith and carpenter .... 3 135 This is exclusive of rent and revenue. Friday is usually considered the best day to begin reaping. The terms commonly used are Ploughing, jotna. Sowing, bona. Reaping, laona. Winnowing, barsdna. Plough, Jial. Flattener, mez. Instruments for making ridges to keep water from flowing off land, mdnjha, datdli. Jelli, fork of wood. Dranti, sickle. Ganddsi, instrument for cutting, kirbi or bajra straw. Rotation of crops, called " pher" is to some extent practised on irrigated land capable of bearing more than one crop in the , year. Thus in one village I found that a common " pher " rotation of was cotton, followed in the -next spring by tobacco, to which bajra or Indian-corn succeeded in the autumn, and a crop of barley in the cold weather completed the two years' rotation. On good double-crop land, barley, gram, or wheat in the " raM" (spring) usually follow bdjra, and Indian-corn in the " kharif" (autumn). Jawar and cotton are less often followed immediately by a rabi crop, as they are gathered in late. In the inferior land moth and bajra often follow one another, though they are also often grown together. Jawdr, bAjra, and urad are also said to be better as alternate crops. The deciduous leaves of cotton help to prepare the land for a high- class crop, such as tobacco. In one part of the State, where jungle plants of little value as fodder are very abundant, they are often cut to be used as manure. It is calculated that eight cattle will afford manure sufficient for two acres, and one household sufficient for one.* This, however, assumes that the lauds gets the benefit of the manure, which is only the case where other fuel is abundant ; elsewhere nearly half the manure is, I believe, burnt. * Elliott's Hoshangabad Settlement Report. ( 90 ) Irrigation by wells, although the commonest form, cannot be extended except within rather narrow limits. For to be profitable, Irrigation. not only must the water be, speaking generally, within 70 feet of the surface, of tolerable quality, and with a copious flow, but if the soil pierced be sandy, it must be possible to reach a firmer stratum below it after water is reached. If the interior masonry of the well rest on sand, the latter will be brought up with the water, and the masonry before long be undermined, and liable to fall in. It is in such soil very difficult to insert a new masonry or wooden cylinder (bachra) within the original one (Jeota) as can be done in firmer soil when the kota threatens to give way. A wooden cylinder usually costs about Rs. 2 per cubit, or Rs. 4 a yard. When water is but a few feet from the surface, and there is a sound bottom within 12 feet, it answers to make the portion of the cylinder within the water of wood, and upon it to build above the water up to the surface of the ground, a cylinder of unmor tared burnt bricks. Such a well, however, will not last above twenty years, and can have neither depth nor width enough to water much more than a third of what a masonry well of one run (lao) in the same locality will water. In sinking the masonry cylinder through sand after water has been reached, a dredger (jMm) is used; but each time the dredger is lowered, a man has to go down to fill it. He dare not remain down whilst the filled dredger is being raised, lest he should be injured by the fall of some of its contents. An attempt has been made to introduce the use of Bull's patent hand-dredger, a simple and efficient contrivance, which acts with- out the presence of a man down the shaft of the well. "When, as frequently happens, the nodulous limestone called kankar is found a few feet above or under the water, the well is often a great success. An iron rod called a ball (the best European description of which is occasionally used) is driven sometimes as many as 30 feet into the bed of limestone. On its withdrawal, if a water spring has been tapped, it rises up the hole and through the loosened kankar into the shaft, and thus a stable well is formed often with a supply of water which no rapidity of working will reduce, and it is pronounced atut, or inex- haustible. If there is no hope of a bdl, or rise, the removal of some kankar may produce a good flow, which is called a saut. Most wells, however, are not atut, and a few hours of constant drawing necessitates cessation for as long a time to allow the water to be renewed. Since the commencement of the Ten- Year Settlement in 1862, the number of well runs have risen from 12,604 to 16,074 throughout the State. When, in 1872, the regular Settlement operations were begun, the systematic issue of advances to Zamindars under fixed rules was sanctioned by the Council. Nearly Rs. 80,000 was thus advanced, by means of which about 300 new wells were constructed, and more than 100 repaired. ( 91 ) In working wells the Persian wheel is not used in Ulwur, only the leathern bucket (charas), simple wheel (chAk). and rope _ // \ r ,, v 11- i Well imgation. (loo). The wells are worked in an uneconomical manner; for as there is no second rope, by means of which the driver of the bullocks might release the drawn water from the bucket, as is done in Ajmir and elsewhere, an extra man is necessary to discharge the water. Where water is very near the surface, denklis are used. They are the " Shadoofs " of the Nile, and consist of a pole working on a pivot, with a weight at one end and a suspended bucket at the other. The well water may be divided into seven classes. The best is called " matwAla." In it the alkalies and acids are in the proportion most favourable to vegetation. The second is " malmala" a good water, though inferior to " mat- wala." The third is " rtikalla" and may be considered middle class. The fourth is " mitha" which apparently has too little salt. Whether its effects cannot be counteracted by the use of the common white efflorescence called " khdr" or by earth containing it, I do not know. Dung has the desired effect, but is often not obtainable in sufficient quantities. The fifth is " khara" or very salt. It leaves a white deposit, but if rains are favourable the crops under a " khara " well are often excellent, and might perhaps be classed above " mitha." The sixth, " telia" or earth oily water, is very bad both for irrigation and for all other purposes. The seventh, " bajar telia" both oily and over salt. Wells of this class are generally useless, or worth next to nothing. Each kind of water, except the " malmala," can be improved by mix- ture with some other sort; thus a " mitha" well favourably situated with respect to " khara" ones, so that alternate waterings can be given from each kind, may raise all to first-class. Well laud rent-rates vary from Us. 5 an acre for sandy, ill-watered land, such as is met with mostly in the north, to Rs. 22 an acre for the rich, well-watered land of the south-west (see Settlement Report in Appendix). li Nahri " is canal-irrigated land. The most valuable is that near the city of Ulwur, the water for which is supplied from the lake ci-11 i. CanaL Silleserh. It waters many gardens in the environs of Ulwur, and much other land. The rates paid are astonishing i.e., Rs. 1-8 a water- ing per Raj bfgha ('4 of an acre). As some garden laud takes twelve waterings per annum, the amount paid for it for water alone is Rs. 45 an acre, and if the revenue be added, it mounts up to Rs. 50. Six waterings are usually given to wheat, four to barley, two to gram. These rates were established before the Settlement began, and it must ( 92 ) be remembered that those who pay them have unlimited manure from the dung and rubbish heaps round the city walls. The water of the Rupparel, or Biirah nallah, belongs to Bhartpur during the rains, and to Ulwur for the rest of the year. The stream is an- nually dammed in October at Ghat, north of Lachmaugarh, and carried by canal to the villages of Lachmangarh. The rate charged is Rs. 1 a settlement bfgha, not half the Silleserh rate. The water from the Deoti lake is distributed to a few villages of Raj- garh, which lie below it. Only 8 annas a bigha is charged, but the villages are rather highly assessed. A new canal, which carries water to some land formerly a grass pre- serve west of the town of Tijara, pays no separate cess, the land being farmed by the Darbar. The total canal land is Watered from Silleserh canal, about 1200 settlement bighas. Deotl 660 Ghat 1800 Tijdra 500 The separate revenues from canals was, for 1874-75 Silleserh ...... 15,200 Ghat ...... 1,700 Deoti ...... 140 All the land in the State is, according to the declaration of the Darbar, theoretically State property, but the Silleserh Canal land has long been treated as actually such, and the Superintendent of Canals annually leases it out in small plots. This is not the case with the Ghat and Deoti Canal land. The Superintendent of Canals acts as revenue collector, as well as water-rent collector of three villages, the lands of which are irrigated from Ghat and Silleserh. For remarks on water-rate imposed by Settlement Department, see Settlement Report (Appendix). " Dahri" is flooded land, and is situated chiefly in the Ramgarh and Lachmangarh Tahsils. The best is in Ramgarh, supplied from the Chuhar Sidh, and the rent paid for it is as high as Rs. 9 an acre, or more occasionally. Much of it is unflooded two years out of three. A good flood is to the villagers within its influence the most happy event in the year, and it becomes the subject of song and rejoicing. " Taldbi" land is that within a dam, which is cultivated when the water is drained off. The dams will be found specified and briefly described under the par- ganas within which they are respectively situated. The principal are Tijara, Lachmangarh, Bagherf, Babrfa, Reni, Baleta, and Kho. ( 93 ) " Kdtli " is land in the bed of nallahs which run dry. It is generally sandy and not equal to the " dahrf," but unless the stream j ii j j.j.1 -J.I.- -i c xi Nallahbeds. is very rapid, the sand settles within a mile or two of the spot it was carried from. When sand-bearing nallahs overflow and de- posit sand, the land is at first much injured, but when grass begins to grow, if cattle are pastured upon it, it soon becomes good, light, arable ground. The Darbar, when villages were not contracted for, but managed directly by the Tahsildars, endeavoured to collect the full , , . , ., , Rent-rates. rental, miuus a percentage of two or three per cent., called hak mujrdi, allowed to the heads of villages or Lumbarddrs. The rent or revenue rates for each kind of crop have been for genera- tions officially determined for every subdivision. They were furnished to me by the kanungoes or pargana accountants. Sugar-cane, though not produced in large quantities, is grown in several parganas, and is worthy of notice as being the most valuable crop raised. To the south-west of the State, in Thana Gbazf, the revenue rate charged for it per raj bigha (i.e., two-fifths of an acre) was from Rs. 10 to Rs. 15, elsewhere it is about Rs. 6. Irrigated wheat was sometimes charged at Rs. 5 and Rs. 6 the raj bfgha, but the average rate was about Rs. 4-4. Unirrigated averaged Rs. 2-5 Good irrigated barley was as high as Rs. 4, but the average was Rs. 3-4. Unirrigated barley is usually in land artificially flooded be- fore the sowing, and called dahri, or in naturally flooded land, like the sandy beds of nallahs, sometimes known as kdtli. The first usually pro- duces good, and the last very poor crops ; and the revenue rate varied from Rs. 1-2 to Rs. 3 a raj bfgha. Gram, too, varied from 14 annas in the inferior land of Bansiir in the west, to Rs. 2-8 in the south-west parganas. Its average rate is about Rs. 1-12 the raj bfgha. Gram is seldom irrigated after sowing. Irrigated cotton was setting aside the exceptional parganah of Thana Ghazf charged at about Rs. 2-15 on an average. Uuirrigated at Rs. 2-4. Irrigated jawdr averaged Rs. 2-2. Unirrigated at Rs. 1-4 the raj bfgha. Irrigated bdjra averaged Rs. 1-2. Unirrigated, 11 annas. The rate for the inferior kharif pulses, such as moth, mung, chola, jawdr, were ten or twelve per cent, less than the bajra rates. These rates are still more or less prevalent in jagfr villages, and are sometimes taken by hard jagfrdars when crops are bad in preference to a share of the produce (battai), the jagirdar reserving to himself the right of returning to battai when he finds it advantageous to do so. Where a share is taken by the jagirdar, or proprietor (for there is practi- cally little difference between them), it is either a half, two-fifths, a third, or a fourth plus a cess, but a third is sometimes regarded as a favourable rate, and a fourth always is. These, too, were the shares which the Dar- bar, when it took a share of the crop, claimed and collected. Jagirdars have a tendency in Native States to become virtual proprie- tors, especially where their original settlement was in part due to their own swords, or where they have by their own exertions protected their estates from danger. Indeed, as the Chief often claims in Native States to be the sole proprietor of the land in fiscal villages, he cannot consist- ently deny the jagfrdars' proprietary title in his villages, the Darbar's rights in which have been transferred to him. The following may be regarded as what would .be thought the fair rent and dues of a jagfrdar or a sole proprietor of a village, though, probably, more than the latter would ever be able to realise, unless also possessed of the prestige which a jagfr gives : One-third of the gross produce. One seer additional per maund on all the produce. A day's work from every plough in the village. A load of green corn from every well run. Rs. 2 on each marriage (and probably a dinner for his retainers). The grass and wild produce of uncultivated land. Rs. 1-4 an acre on fallow land. Jagirdars often exercise the option of realising rent in money according to crop rate or in kind. They each season select the mode which pro- mises to be most profitable. This, however, is regarded as oppressive by cultivators, and I have known proprietors, who found it necessary to con- ciliate their tenants at will (j)Ahis\ give them each season the choice ("J^") of paying their rent in money according to the fixed rate or in kind ; and, in the latter case, one-third of the crop (tisra b&ntho) was taken. The rent-rates, on which the assessment of the Settlement beginning in 1876 is based, are shown in the Settlement Report (see Appendix). The tenures of land prevailing in the State are not, I think, peculiar. They are locally known under two names, " batti hui" or TCHUTGS divided, and " gol" or undivided. The first term is applied to villages, the lands of which have been apportioned according to here- ditary right, and is the " Pattidari " of the North- Western Provinces. A glance at the village field-map will usually show whether a village is " batti kM," for as each proprietor gets his share of good and his share of bad land (achhi hi achchi our buri ki buri}, the well and rich land will, unless it is extensive, be minutely divided, and the unirrigated and in- ferior, if plentiful, as it usually is comparatively, will be in long rectan- gular fields. In such villages the ll jumma " (or revenue assessed on the villages) will be paid in fractions corresponding to the hereditary share. Thus if a man at the division of the lands received a tenth of them, he becomes thenceforth responsible for a tenth, and is spoken of as having ( 95 ) two biswas (i.e., two-twentieths); or sometimes a well rope (lao) symbo- lises the smallest share, and so many well ropes the total number of shares, or it may be a plough is the unit, or a bullock, or a waist-cloth (Idngri), or a bush scythe (ddnkri), or a turban (pdgri), or a yoke (gdtma). The "gol" is of two kinds. In the first, occupation has grown into virtual proprietorship ; although the land held by each member of the community may not at all correspond with his share according to the genealogical tree. In this case, each holder is responsible for his share of ihejamma whether he cultivates his fields or not, and the distribution of the jamma is usually by a bi'gha rate corresponding with the capacity of the land. This tenure is sometimes known as " khali ckdli" that is, land paying jumma, whether "fallow or tilled." This the Superinten- dents call bhaiachdra. In the other " gol" tenure, the village land is held in common, and let to the cultivators. Rent is paid to the brotherhood by the cultivators whether the latter be proprietors or not, and only land actually culti- vated is paid for. Jura mdre or " yoke (of oxen) trod," is the term applied to land held on this tenure, and it marks the principle upon which payment is exacted. The "pala" or fodder of uncultivated land even that lying uncultivated for half the year only and any other extra source of income, is this property of the community, and is divided ac- cording to hereditary shares based on the genealogical tree, as is also any profit or loss which may accrue. It is, in fact, a " zamindarf " tenure. A combination of these tenures is very common. The well laud will be " batti hiii," and the unirrigated " gol " (" imperfect Pattidari! "). Or all will be " gol," but the well will be " khali chalf," and the un- irrigated "jura mare." In deciding claims to land, the Settlement Department was directed to treat possession for a given period as conferring an abso- lute title. Instead of fixing that period at twelve years of claims to arbitrarily, it was deemed better to select a date more dis- tinctly marked, and this was found in the commencement of Captain Impey's first Settlement ; that is, thirteen years before the expiry of the last. The test of proprietary possession was usually the actual or con- structive entry of name in the " pattas," or leases, of the two Settlements of Captain Impey, and the receipt of hak mujrai (or a two per cent, allow- ance on the revenue made to proprietors, or their representatives, the lumbardars). Sometimes the receipt of " dhol danka" or a payment at marriages in the village, was to a certain extent evidence of proprietor- ship. Now and then a person might prove that he had been actually in possession, though neither his nor his representative's name was in the aforesaid " pattas." If in an undivided village a man who had less than his hereditary share sued for a partition of the lands in accordance with the village ( 90 ) genealogical tree, he received, if possible, the deficiency from the common land not cultivated by proprietors. The possession of pro- prietors was not disturbed, unless on special grounds it was justifiable. A great many absentees about 2000 as near as I could make out were allowed to re-occupy their lauds without opposition during Captain Impey's Settlements ; and within the last five years several hundreds have returned and quietly resumed their possessions without reference to a court. Occupancy The question of occupancy rights had to be dealt with by the Settlement Department. Proprietors strenuously opposed the recognition of the occupancy rights of non-proprietors ; and as, up to Captain Impey's Settlements, no proprietors had wished to oust cultivators, but, on the contrary, usually offered them advantages and coaxed them to come and stay, it was diffi- cult to discover whether any right of ouster was reserved in case the proprietor should claim to assert it. Cultivators in Ulwur have usually a better position than in British territory ; for, having been pressed to settle in a village, they have often been allowed a share in its management, and sometimes permitted to act aa lumbarddrs, or to become actual proprietors. Those who resided in the village for other purposes than for cultivating land, such as baniyas, weavers, &c., had often plots of land assigned to them, whether they wished for them or not, the revenue on which they had to pay. This apportioning was called " chakbandhi." and the possession of a plot or chak was formerly thought such a burden that a trade tax (lag), or house tax (jkompri baach}, was sometimes preferred and paid instead. Now the plots are valued by their possessors, who claim occupancy rights. After much inquiry and discussion, it was held that if a cultivator had paid revenue only and no rent (i.e.) if he had paid as proprietors pay for the same kind of land) from before the first settlement of Captain Impey, and had always held the same land and without a lease (patta), he had occupancy right. If he held by patta, or if his rent had been raised at the pleasure of the proprietors, or if he paid more than the latter, or if the latter had changed his holding at pleasure, it was held generally that he had no occupancy rights. If, however, he had been a proprietor, or if he was an ex-jagirdar or muafidar, or possibly for some other special reason, occupancy rights were conceded. Every cultivator, not an occupancy tenant, who had held land in the village for two genera- tions, or from a period before the first Settlement of Captain Impey, was held to be entitled to sufficient land to maintain himself, though to no more, and, of course, not to more than he was actually holding when the record of rights was framed. The first class of occupancy tenants were not to be charged more rent than was sufficient to cover their share of village expenses ; the others, of course, were not entitled to hold at favourable rates. ( 97 ) The cattle of Ulwur are in no wise remarkable. The fine animals of every kind are imported, and not bred. A good many cattle, , , TT, . Cattle, carts. however, are exported from Ulwur territory. A plough and yoke of bullocks can prepare from 20 to 25 Settlement bighas for the rain-sowings. From 2 to 3 bighas of grass Maintenance land must ordinarily be reserved to feed these two bullocks of cattle - during the rains. The weeding of the crops supplements this grazing ground, and sometimes the weeding alone is accounted sufficient, but in that case 30 seers a day of tura (barley or moth straw and chaff) is necessary for the first month of the rains. A bigha or more is assigned to raise 6 maunds of gawdr (a coarse vetch) for the two bullocks, which must have, at least, a seer a day each during the ploughing, and, if possible, during the cold weather. The yield per bigha of bdjra and pulse straw and chaff should be from 20 to 24 maunds, and 1 or 1^ maunds of pdla (ber leaves) besides. Before the hot weather the ber bushes should yield 4 or 5 maunds more that is, from 25 to 30 maunds of fodder per bigha altogether. The grass land, which is unused during the cold weather, likewise should yield from 4 to 5 maunds of pdla before the hot weather. The cattle require about 15 seers a head of this fodder, the total of which for 20 bighas of cultivated and 2 of fallow is, taking a rather low yield, as follows : Maunds. Maunds. Yield of cultivated . 20 X 25 = 500 Yield of fallow 2X4= 8 Total . 508 Or food for one bullock for 1016 days. That is not quite enough for four head of cattle for the dry portion of the year, which is three-fourths of the whole. But probably, in general, 20 bighas of average light, unirrigated land, plus 2 bighas of fallow, would be sufficient to support a yoke of bullocks, a cow, and two young cattle, without trenching upon the grain crop of 18 acres, which would be used for human food. The cattle diseases complained of are (1) mel, described as the worst, it seems to burst or cut the stomach ; (2) bhang or Jeusti, the foot-and- mouth disease ; (3) naia rog, of which swelling of the chest is the main symptom ; (4) aphra, a disease which comes of eating too much guwdr ; (5) pkarsvja, a swelling of the thighs. The manual on cattle disease, published by the British Government, was circulated in Ulwur, and introduced into the village schools. The castration of bullocks, in order to make them more manageable, is prohibited in all Hindu States, a restriction much felt by Musalman ploughmen. There is not, I think, any peculiarity about the vehicles, except that the carts are smaller than those usually seen about Agra and Dehli vil- lages. Raths, the bullock carriages of the upper class, are well made, and sold at Ulwur by the litij workmen. A N handsome one, including cloth, costs about Rs. 400 ; without the cloth less than half. The following shows the difference between wages formerly paid and Wages. those paid now : A.D. 1858. 4 an mas 3 pies. 4 3 2i ,, y ,, A.D. 1876. 5 annas pies. Masons Stonecutters, Carpenters Beldars and ) n i/^-i o n r> pi- > 1 ,, to 1 anna C pies. 1 3 to 2 annas 6 pies. Lime was sold at Rs. 3 the 100 maunds, now Rs. 6 to Rs. 8. The stone from the two best - known quarries in the neighbourhood of the city was sold thus: Lai Khan's, 150 rdspas, or donkey - loads (112 maunds), the rupee, now Rs. 1-12 is paid for that weight. Jarak- wara quarry lime was Rs. 1-11-6 the 100 maunds, now Rs. 3 for the same quantity. Formerly agricultural labourers, called mazdtirs, could be got for from Rs. 2 to Rs. 28 a month, now Rs. 3 to Rs. 4 are 'paid. A ghilef, or cotton cloth, and a pair of shoes, is often given besides. For day-labourers 2 annas a day is paid. Chumars get a present of grain from those they work for, and are not usually paid monthly wages. Other village servants, too, such as the blacksmith (lohar), carpenter (katlri), and washerman (dhobi), are paid in kind. Price current. The price current is shown bel )w : Average for s. 1915 (A.D. 1858-59). Wheat . 33 seers. Barley . 43 Giir . 13 Bajra . 38 5> Jawar . 46 Gram . 38 Average for ten years, s. 1915-28, excluding two famine years. 27 seers. 39 9 32 38 31 Average for s. 1928 (A.D. 1871-72). 19 seers. 27 7 24 26 19 The Raj bfgha is about two-fifths of an acre. The bigha selected for Measures and * ne Settlement survey is the Akbarf, and is -625 of an acre weights. exactly. Only liquid articles, such as milk, oil, 83 15,740 W',077 '5,723 2,005,484 150,646 6,104 429 42^468 44|012 38,058 1,920,000 15,000 15,000 1,600 2,725 8,000 1,969,714 14,797 15,695 2,045 3,074 9,882 1,944,789 16,550 16,560 1,600 2,725 6,829 ... 2. Gardens 3. Canals 4. Forest Dues Camel-grazing Bamboos "Gurhkaptdni"* .... 5. Tribute from Jagirdars .... 6. Grass lands "JhmW*t " Bdgarb&ch" t .... 11,674 13,727 1,825 1,419 12,739 15,740 9,756 321 12,325 15,000 10,000 321 15,001 16,142 12,424 323 ... 11,154 16,000 9,500 302 '5,723 150,646 6,104 429 23,238 12,839 6,391 10,321 5,188 140,000 7,275 300 22,000 12,000 6,500 2,600 6,500 7,000 8,000 4,000 9,400 1,992,834 225,575 38^000 12,747 5,491 135,764 7,696 477 20,494 12,884 6,854 3,499 7,424 7,076 16,051 8,478 9,561 2,049',587 236,258 38,466 9,802 3,084 130,000 7,275 200 22,000 12,000 7,000 2,400 6,320 4,230 8,500 7,000 7,400 2,017^939 214,325 382',000 Total ' II. SAW!I JAMMA OB EXTBA REVENUE. 9. Abkdrl (spirits excise) .... 10. Mint Fees of criminal courts .... 12. Salt 1,235 6,842 7,622 9,277 9,469 9,567 14. Discount, interest, &c. .... 15. Savings of pay, refunds .... 16. Nazdl (Darbar buildings andbuilding land] 17. Miscellaneous (including Post-office) 19,050 19,008 19,000 19,000 19,249 19,217 19,100 19,100 Total 2,287,201 636,373 2,256,409 690,204 2,324,311 690,204 ... 2,270,464 681,262 Extraordinary cash balance at commence- ment of year ... Grand total .... 2,923,574 2,946,613 3,014,515 2,951,724 f Ordnance, Commissariat, and Miscellaneous Repair Department. t Farohi is a charge for permission to carry off bundles of grass from runds, and the return from the sale of strayed cattle ; also fines inflicted by Forest Department. Bagarbach is a charge for exemption from labour in runds. 1872-73. 1873-74. 1874-75. Actuals. Estimate. Actuals. Estimate. 1. Late Chief's private and domestic expen- diture up to October 10th (his death) . 2. Raj expenditure ( Riding Stables < Carriage .... (, Breeding stud Rs. 32,805 16,024 22,378 Rs. 165,000 71J207 25,398 31,684 17,897 10,010 146,954 35,704 5H245 14,518 37,114 152',728 17,696 27,493 22,767 71,620 92',31 26,42 72,436 75 3,29 26J35 9,21 27,000 18,14 Rs. 27,608 16,300 24,370 Rs. 180,000 68,278 23,800 27,673 15,900 3,383 159,697 41,210 685^591 15,000 32,785 170|000 20,216 23,69 24,296 87,500 921350 28.00C 100.00C 31 15.00C 25',OOC 10.00C 50.00C 18,500 Rs. 25,579 13,809 20,645 Rs. 180,000 60',033 23,598 3&068 16,670 6,561 173,195 41,618 584J146 14,950 39,732 163',931 2'6',919 22,776 24,589 93,902 90,914 30,362 110,679 363 8,123 26',903 9,09<] 26,654 15,867 Rs. 38,725 13,113 16,633 Rs 34,838 68',471 21,641 27',438 17,807 5,158 180,549 42,556 558',564 15,704 31,123 164040 19,343 24,211 21,528 77,628 90',307 28,460 80,000 140 8,000 '6,500 iaooo 5,000 25,684 12,675 15,000 9,173 17,873 9,890 25',899 10,169 19,219 8,219 A J Rathkhana 4. Bullock . do. ( G4rlkh4n6 . . 21,173 10,511 33,235 132,228 260,300 16,110 51,536 26,328 28,122 31,411 21,036 5,285 33',310 130,425 236,148 15,889 55,781 26,043 27,398 32,775 21,400 4,967 33',114 129,459 215,220 15,797 54,090 26,004 27,330 30,871 21,516 5,163 7. Administrative establishment (including Post-office) 8 Police f Artillery .... Fort Garrisons . . . Cavalry . . . . KhassChauki . Fatah Paltan 9. Army . -, ^^ do 31,781 131,010 252, f>9! 15,452 50,290 26,131 28.361 32,922 20,949 4,750 Bakhtawar do. . . Irregular companies " Rissala Nakdi " ^ Camel guns .... 10. Imtiazts 11. Kothi Dasahra (tent, clothing, &c., de- 57J86 18,759 60,469 26,917 ( Buildings Workshops ... 12. Public works JfSdh. or dams '. \ Canal .... L Miscellaneous (MistriKhana . 13. "Workshops < Chapar bandi . . . '. Garhkaptani . . . 14. Jail 52,261 20,940 56,234 16,983 6,310 1,408 13,363 2,925 1,500 14,974 3,742 1,439 15,825 3,655 1,415 13,916 4,012 59,25 9,000 24,100 58,815 9,211 22,888 59,366 7,671 23,270 16. Charitable, religious, and other endow- ments, Bengal Famine Fund . 17. Parganah expenses Lambardar 3 per cent, on land revenue Kanuugo haks Patwarris do 59,230 9,030 24,059 ... 7,486 10,91 6,687 1,189 19. Settlement establishment 20. Mint 21. Vakils 22. Gifts, Rewards, &c. Gifts on Marriage .... ,, Deaths . Miscellaneous 2,109 13,31 7,933 2,992 23. Stationery '"51 43 ... ... 24. Tukavi, advances for wells 25. Khawds C/idas, or household slaves 26. Rass6f, or kitchen establishment . 27. Main Sigha, or grants to Zaiiana 28. Shikar Khana, or sporting establishment Carry forward .... ( 102 ) DISBURSEMENTS. 1872-73. 1873-74. 1874-76. Actuals. Estimate. Actuals. : Estimate. Brought forward 29. Tosha Khana, jewel, &c., establishment 30. Palki Khana 31. Sillah Khana, armoury .... 32. Mashalkhana, lighting establishment 33. Gunijan Khana, singers and dancera 34. Wrestlers 35. Advances to officials and connections of chief . .... 36. Miscellaneous . .... Total . . School fund . .... Dispensary do. .... Total Extraordinary Payment of Government loan . Liquidation of miscellaneous debts and arrears of pay .... Total Cash balance Grand total .... Rs. 26,'l54 13,036 400,000 15,377 Rs. 19,816 40,557 Rs. 27^500 15,000 313,050 Rs. 10000 47628 Rs. 14,344 2,078 "438 33^260 16,550 300,000 19,965 Rs. 68951 55093 Rs. 36^598 18,002 360,600 Ra. 70,000 2,593 1,290 2,042 2,000 2,254 20,000 54,962 1,778,353 39,190 1,895,893 42J 500 1,963 480 49 810 1,816,685 54,'600 1,817,543 415,377 1,938,313 313,050 2,013,290 319,965 1,871,285 378,869 2,232,920 690,204 2,251,363 695,250 2,333,255 681,260 2,245,154 706,570 2,923,124 ... 2,946,613 3,014,515 ... 2,951,724 Customs. The principal heads of revenue and expenditure will be touched on here; the minor establishments more directly connected with the palace are noticed under " Darbar." Land Revenue. Regarding the Land Revenue, see Appendix IY. The Customs * contract in 1868-69 was Rs. 120,000. Then grain and 252 other articles were taxed, internal duties were levied so that goods could not be conveyed from one pargana to another without paying toll, and one toll did not clear another, so that the same goods might have to pay several times. In 1869-70, when grain dues were temporarily abolished, but the same system prevailed, the sum contracted for was Rs. 90,500. In 1870-71 reforms were begun, and a check on collections by means of passes and counterfoils was instituted. After sufficient information on which to base action had been obtained, a change of system was com- pleted. Now the articles taxed have been reduced from 253 to 29. Grain pays only a registration fee of a pie a maund ; internal duties have been entirely abolished ; the tariff on the articles still taxed has been re- duced, except in the case of salt (which has been raised from 2^ annas to 6 annas), and yet the contract for 1873-74 was sold for Rs. 135,000. The railway seems likely, on the whole, to benefit the customs revenue in spite of the loss of transit dues which it entails. For details of customs, see " Trade." The "spirit drunk is distilled from "gur" (molasses) water, and the * Customs were abolished in 1877, see agreement, page 192. ( 103 ) Dark of the kikar (Acacia arabica). That sold is of two qualities, the strongest is sold at 8 annas a bottle, the weaker at 5 Abkari. annas. Thakurs have private stills and brands. The licence to sell liquor is disposed of to a single contractor, who pays about Rs. 7000 for it, and appoints sub-contractors. There has not been any check on the number of shops open. Canals have been dwelt on under " Irrigation." The entry in the Revenue Account has reference only to the Siliserh and the _,, i Canals. Ghat canals. Salt yields a very small revenue ; it is touched on under " Mines and Minerals." Salt. The same remark applies to iron furnaces. iron furnaces. There are sixty-five gardens belonging to the Raj. Two are inside the city walls, twenty-seven in the environs, one in the Kishengarh pargana, two in the Tijara, two in the Bansiir, one in the Govindgarh, three in the Lachmangarh, six in the Thana Ghazf, twenty in the Rajgarh. In the aggregate they cover 1150 acres ; and in 1874-75 the revenue from them, exclusive of the value of produce consumed by the Raj, was Rs. 14,500, and the cost Rs. 20,900. A few years ago they yielded less than a third of this sum. The Bannf Bilas, and many of the gardens around Ulwur, are well watered from the SfHserh Canal ; and, owing to this abundance of water, combined with the richness of the soil, are very productive. The Bannf Bilas is one of the finest gardens in North India ; it covers 150 acres, and is remarkable for its fine drives, ornamental trees, and for its profusion of fruits, flowers, and vegetables. The peaches are the best I have ever seen, and the Bombay and Malwah mangoes very fine and good. All the ordinary fruits are produced in the Ulwur gardens, and amongst them strawberries sometimes in great plenty. Of vegetables, the finest are the cucurbitaceous kinds, known as "arm," " koela" and " ghiya." The leguminous, " sim " and " tordi." " Banyans " and " karelas " are also remarkably good. The tracts of land, usually wood and grass reserves, which are regarded as the special property of the Darbar, are fifty-five in w number, and 367,758 Wghas in extent. They are termed an Binjari . 10 Toda 4 Bharkol . 5 Dhand 13 Kachawa . 4 Shekhpur . 2 > Raj pur 6 Palwa . 15 horses. Munpur . . 14 Pdi ... 4 horses. Dhawanla 2 Nagli Sadh 3 Siinpur 4 Collaterals of Khora. ^ Collateral of Palwa. Collaterals of Pal. Naril had a second son, Dasa by name (page 13), of whom come the Dasawat Nanikas, and to whom Naru consigned his claims to the Amer gaddi. Dasa raised a rebellion in Amer, and a couplet (quoted at page 46) records his activity as a leader ; but he was captured by the Amer Chief Pirthwi Raj and kept a prisoner. The legends tell that on the first festival of the rainy season (Sauwan tij), he, sitting disconsolate thinking of his home, repeated the lines " Bij charhi lagi jari, Ae Tij a cher ; Dasa ghara umaya, Pital sikh na der." "The corn seed has rooted and sprouted, And pleasant Tij has come ; Dasa is home-sick, But Pital detains him." Pirthwi Raj's wife overheard him, and, full of pity, begged her husband to release the captive, which he reluctantly agreed to do. He sent for Dasa, and they dined together and became merry in their cups. The Chief asked Dasa to repeat the lines which had so touched the Rani, but he recited others " Ek to Sawan bitiyo, Duja Sawan jae Siyale Nahar pakriyo Ji chorde to kai." " One Sawan has passed And another is going Since the Jackal confined the Tiger Who when free will devour him." Whereupon Pirthwi Raj gave him a cup of poison instead of his freedom. Dasa's son, Karam Chaud, was murdered at the instigation of Rao Sangaji when the latter ( 121 ) was struggling against him for the "gaddi" of Anier (see " Bfkaufr Gazetteer," page 12). The sons, however, of Karam Chaud fought well against the Sisodias under the famous Man Singh at the pass of Gogunda * in Mewar, and to some Man Singh gave lauds. Of them come the Lawa family and the Uiiiara, Ladaua, and other families of Jaipur. But two, Abhe Ram and Anand Ram, who were not in the fight, did not get an estate, and they set off to Dehli. When halting at Maujpur, a town in the Lach- mangarh pargana of Ulwur, the people of the place are said to have invited them to stay and protect them against the plundering Meos. As usual in the tradition of such settlements, the legends say that the treasure necessary to establish the new family was discovered, and the fort of Garhi was built in the hills near. The Nariikas are said to have brought the territory stretching for 42 kos under their sway, and the Bargnjars, who were in possession were expelled. The tract is that still known as " Nariikhand," and the Garhi family, descended from Anand Ram, has a high position in Ulwur. Its present representative, Thakur Mangal Singh, is a member of the Council of Management. Besides the above, there are Naruka families called " Deska," because they came on the invitation of Ulwur chiefs from the old Naruka home (des) near Jaipur, and settled in Ulwur. The Chauhans of the Raht claim connection with Pirthwi Chauhins. Raj, the famous Dehli king and hero of Chand's poem. One Madan is said to have founded Mandawar in 8.1227 (A.D. 1170). Halajf, fifth in descent from Madan had three sons Hansajf, whose grandson Chand became a Musalman and received the title of Rao. His representative is still the Rao of Mandawar, and receives an allowance of Rs. 1 1 00 cash, and holds a village on per- petual settlement (istimrdr). Kanhardeoji, the second, founded the family of Barod. His descendants now hold no istimrdr, but 173 bighas of rent-free land and Rs. 173 annual cash allowances. Raj-deoji the youngest, received the title of Raja for services performed. He settled at Nimrana, and when Chand of Mandawar, the head of the family, became a Musalman, Manddwar ceased to be regarded as the principal seat, but was superseded by Nimrana. The determination of the relations between the Ulwur Darbar and the Raja of Nimrana gave much trouble to the British Govern- ment. The Chief of Ulwur declared Nimrana to be a mere jdgirddr of the Ulwur State, while the Raja of Nimrana claimed complete in- dependence. The final decision arrived at in 1868, and agreed to by both parties, gave the Raja of Nimrana civil and criminal jurisdiction within his estate, subject to rules the British Government might from time to time promulgate, fixed the tribute he was to pay Ulwur at one-eighth of his land revenue, and the Nazcb- rdna, on the occasion of succession to the Ulwur chiefship, at Rs. 500. On the * For an account of this battle see Elliot's Musalman Historians, vol. v. p. 399. The historian Badauni was in the battle, and with other Musalmaus exerted himself to kill Rajputs, regardless whether they were friend or foe. Q ( 122 ) occasions of succession to Nimra'nn, the rules applied to British feudatories were agreed to (see G. 0. G-. G., No. 578, of 5th June 18G8). Nfrnra'na was to maintain a vakil at Ulwur and with the Governor-General's Agent. Trade in Nimrana was to be entirely free, and the Ulwur Chief was to have no special customs tariff for goods going to or coming from Nirnrana. Nim- rana was to be regarded as a feudatory of Ulwur. The tribute Nimraua was to pay was fixed at Rs. 3000 from A.D. 1868 till A.D. 1898. The Nimrana estate comprises ten villages, and its annual revenue is about Rs. 24,000. The following shows the clans and sub-clans which furnish the jagir horse. The fractions of horses represent cash payments, or the the horse furnished serves but a portion of the usual time : Horses. No. of R4jp6t Clan. Jdgird&rs. 12 Kotri 26 Dasawat 6 Nanika i Laldwat 7 Chitarjika Deska 5 10 Chauliau 19 Kalauot 2 Pachanot 7 Janawat 1 Rajawat Kumbdwat 2 1 Joga Kachwaha Radhaka 1 1 Shekhawat 1 Bankaw Gor Rahtor at 1 9 9 Jadu Bhati 7 Bargujar Ton war 6 1 1 Saiyad, 1 Gosain, 1 Sikh > 1 Giijar, 1 Kayath ... } 5 42* 18* 71} 111} 13 41 10 2 4 2 li 3 1 58 73 56* 70 4 33 The right of being received in Darbar by the Chief standing is greatly esteemed, and is called " tazim." Some " tazims " are older T&zinis. than the State, and some have been conferred by Ulwur Chiefs. They are usually heritable. Of the Jdgirddrs, seventeen have tdzims, as follows : Twelve Kotri Naru- kas, Bijwar, Pulwa, Para, Pai, Khora, Thana, Khera, Siichandpura. Ddsd- wat Nawkas, Garhi (20 horses). Eahiors, Sal pur (28 horses), Sukhmeri (11), Rasulpur (5). Bargujars Taising (4). Gors, Chamraoli (24). Jddus, Kank- wari (9), Mokandpura (3). ( 123 ) Nine Thakurs holding rent-free grants hold tdzims. Of these, the Jaoli Thakur, who has three villages, is the chief. Tdzims are also held by the Bakshi or Commander of the Forces, the Khanzada Nawab of Shahbad, the Rao of Mandawar, and thirteen Brahmins. The extinct aristocracy consisted of Klianzadas in Mewat, Shekhawats in the " Wai," on the western border ; and the Rajawats of the south-west. Of the Khanzadas enough has been said already. The Shekhawats are settled in the "Wai" (Bansiir Tahsfl). They are branches of the great Kachwaha clan, of so much importance to the north of Jaipur, and they are descended from Udi Karan, the same chief of Amer whom the Narukas claim as their progenitor. Rai Mai, son of Shekhji, is said to have been the father of the Wai families, thus Rai Hal. ! r i i Snjajf. Tej Mai. Jag Mai. (Descendants settled in (Descendants in Narain- (Descendants in Hamfr- " Bealisi," pargana of pur and Garhi Mamur, pur and Hajipur, of Bansiir.) parganas of Bansiir.) Bansiir.) At Narainpur the ruins of a fine old " Mahal," destroyed by Partap Singh, from which, in the good old days, fifty-two palkees (a common number) used, it is said, to issue, attest the former importance of the family. Near the ruin is a shrine, an ancient " Swami" of which prophesied the rise of the Narainpur family; and beside it the remains of a Kejra tree, which in its growth and decay was considered to typify and indicate the rise and fall of the Shekhawat family, which now holds little or no land in jagir. Their villages, however, have been lightly assessed. The Rajawats, descendants of Raja Bhagwant Singh of Amer, formerly ruled in the tract which now forms the Thana Ghazi Tahsil ; and the ruin of their city and palaces and temples at Bhangarh. is a touching spectacle (see Bhangarh). Though now only cultivators in many villages, they retain much of their noble bearing, and to some extent their social position. The Rajawat cultivators always hold their land at favourable rates (see Thana Ghazi). OFFICIALS. Of official families something lias been said in the Historical Sketch. Gor Brahmins put on the tillak or frontal mark at the accessions of Ulwtir Rajas, and officiate at their marriages. They bear the title of Missar. Pdrik Brahmins of Macheri, the old home of the Ulwur family, are the parohits or family priests of the Darbar. The Vishnu Gosain of Kama is the hereditary Guru or spiritual guide of the house, but a Jogi, or devotee of Shiv, and a Shakti, or follower of Devi, are also Gurus. ( 124 ) There are no bards regularly maintained, but the descendants of many Charan bards hold villages in the state. Several of these were conferred by Maharao Rajas Bakhtawar Singh* and Banni Singh. The latter, however, gave only one as a reward for clever rhymes. M. R. Sheodan Singh confiscated several Others, formerly conferred by Shekhawats in Bansur, are held on copper-plate deeds of grant several hundred years old. There are two Charan families which have the privilege of receiving the elephants ridden by the chief at his marriage. The household slaves, or Khdwds Chelas, number about 200. A good deal has been said regarding this class in the " Bikanir Gazet- 01 teer." Though known generally as " Khawas chelas," the spe- cial title of" Khawas," whjch is an honourable distinction enabling the bearer to sit in Durbar, is borne by only five. Ramu, the faithful minister and adhe- rent of M. R. Bakhtawar and Banni Singh, is the slave most distinguished in the history of the State. His family hold a valuable rent-free grant. Kha- was Sheo Baksh, Superintendent of stables, woods, &c., is at present the chela of most mark. When, in 1870, the Council of Administration was established, and a fixed sum assigned for the expenses of the palace, the late chief neglected to supply maintenance to a number of the household slaves, who applied to the Political Agent for the means of support. The Council thought the opportunity a good one for permanently reducing the number of slaves in the palace, and so far diminishing the servile influence which was the cause of much evil. It was consequently determined that the complaining chelas should either leave the service of the State, or enter the army as Fort garrison sepoys. This attempt to confer freedom upon them was resented as a cruel wrong. They had always been accustomed to live in the city of Ulwur, and leave it they declared they would not. It was only after a long time, and after every effort to change the decision of the Council had failed, that they partially yielded. * The story told of one of these grants is interesting. During a terrible famine, M. R. Bakhtdwar Singh began the construction of the fine tank under the Fort, and the famine- stricken from all parts were employed upon it. He noticed that a body of Marwdr vil- lagers always set aside a fixed proportion of the flour which they received in lieu of pay ; and when questioned they said that the reserved part was for their master the Charan. It turned out that they belonged to a village held by a Charan, who, when the famine came on, instead of turning his stored grain into gold, gave the whole of it to his ryots. When all was gone he left his village at the head of his people in search of food. When they reached the Raja's relief work, and were enabled to earn their daily bread, they regularly set apart for their master a fraction of it equal to the fraction of the crop which he had been in the habit of receiving, and so enabled him and his family to live without subjecting themselves to the manual labour they were untrained to, or to the disgrace of begging. Bakhtslwar Singh was so pleased with the generosity the Charan had displayed and evoked, that he kept him at Ulwur, and eventually he received the village of Deorajpura. ( 125 REVENUE-FREE HOLDINGS. The following are the revenue-free holdings of various kinds : Villages. Pun, or religious grants, 19 of these are held by Cliarans . .. 83 Jdidad and indm, secular grants without any particular condition attached to them ......... 59 Jdgir, grants on condition of military service . . . .193 Nakdl, temporary grants to servants in lieu of pay ... 2 Mdhi, life grants to the dowager Ranis . . . . . 25 Bdrddri, grants to an inferior class of sepoys called Bardars . . 5 367 PART IV. FISCAL DIVISIONS, TOWNS, VILLAGES. THE names and position of tracts which, or parts of which, are included in the Ulwtir State were specified, and the limits and history of Mewat, the principal one, were sketched at the beginning of Part I. ; the establishment of " Naruk- hand," where the chief Naruka Thakurs live, was described, page 121, and its connection with Mewat, page 12. The chief aristocracy of the " Wai," the "Eaht," and the "Rajawat" country are dwelt on at pages 121. 123. The " Wai " (valley ?) and " Raht " (savage country?) are, I believe, en- tirely situated in Ulwur, but much of the country of the Narukas and Raja- wats is situated in Jaipur. Much of Mewat, too, lies beyond the Ulwur State. To these should be added a little district in the south-east corner, which is part of " Kater." Most of " Kater " is now in Bhartpur, and together with parts of " Brij " and the " Dang " forms the territory of that State. In the following account of the Tahsils, the old tracts comprised within each are specified together with the present subdivisions. The fiscal divisions or Tahsils were specified at page 39, and statistical details will be found at page 187. NORTHERN DIVISIONS OR TAHSILS. The Tijara Tahsil adjoins the Gurgaom district of British territory, Kot Kasim of Jaipur, and the Ulwur Tahsil of Kishengarh It is Tii&ra Tahsil. ., . . a . .-> > <-*- r . i situated m the heart of Mewat, is about 257 square miles in extent, and has a population of about 52,000. The Tahsil is composed of two parganas, having separate accountants or kanungoes, and formerly separate tahsildars. The northern one is Tapokra, formerly Indor ; the southern, Tijara, There are 199 fiscal (klidlsd) villages, and 3 rent-free (mnaffi) total 202. The fiscal are as follows : Caate of Proprietors. Tij&ra. Tapokra. Meo 56 65 Ahir 12 10 Jdt 1 Gujar 6 9 ( 127 ) Rajput Khanzada Pathan Saiyad Mali Mixed castes 2 14 1 1 1 10 104 95 Uncomplimentary and untranslatable rhymes are current regarding the character of the town people. None are reputed wealthy. Of the Meos much has been already said, and I will only add that in Tijara the clans contend much one with the other.* Boundary quarrels are the most frequent. When a nallah is the boundary, the centre of the bed, not either bank, is as a rule the border line. For statistics regarding the area, &c., see page 191. The old revenue rates prevailing in Tijara and Tapokra per Raj bigha (i.e. two-fifths of an acre) are shown below. They will not be inserted under every tahsil but only under the four most remote from one another, which will serve as specimens of the whole : Tijara. Tapokra. Tijara. Tapokra. Bajra 1 (irrigated) Hup, An. Pies Rup. An. Plea Cotton (irrigated) Kill) AD. Tie* Rup. An. Pie* 1st quality 120 140 1st quality 280 240 2d 15 2d 200 1 11 3d ... 11 3 3d ... 143 Bajra) Cotton (unirrigated) and > (unirrigated) 1st quality 180 200 Til ) 2d 140 180 1st quality 1 1 3d ... 120 2d 14 12 Wheat (irrigated) 3d 12 090 1st quality 400 400 Moth ) 2d 300 300 Mung > (unirrigated) Chola ) 3d Wheat (uiiirrigated) 280 240 1st quality 12 12 1st quality 300 300 2d 11 090 2d 200 240 3d 10 069 3d 1 8 1 11 3 Gwar (unirrigated) Gram 1st 1 8 ... 1st quality 10 10 2d 1 4 2d 080 076 3d 1 ... 3d 070 060 Carrots 1st 280 2 15 6 Gharri (unirrigated) 2d 200 1st quality 1. 4 140 Tobacco 1st 280 4 '2 6 2d 1 16 2d 200 ... 3d ... 11 Kasnl 1st 280 1 4 Jawar (irrigated) Cummin and Opium 280 280 1st quality 280 280 Mustard 1st 300 ... 2d ... 1 14 2d 280 Jawar (unirrigated) Tori ( cucumber ) 100 1st quality 1 8 1 6 Kachra \ class. ) i Kiiri, Mandtia, Barti, Kangni, and China have the same rates as Uajra. * The Dangal Ghaserfas, who spring from Rasiua in Gurgaom, and the Landhdwats, who come from Baghor of Tijara, are the two chief clans ; the first to the north, the second to the south. They did not unite, though they rebelled iu 1857, during the mutiny ( 128 ) The soil of the Tijara Tahsil is for the most part very poor, the best land is in the south-west. The chief crops grown are Bajra and inferior pulses (masina), and the uncultivated culturable land is of very little value. There is little irrigated land in Tijara, less than twelve per cent, of the whole. The drainage of the hills to the east supplies water to the principal bandh or darn of the tahsll, that under the fort and palace of Balwant Singh. It covers a little more than 1000 Settlement bighas in ordinary years; and the land within and near the bandh is of the best quality. The stream flowing from this bandh can be at pleasure stopped by the dam bridge of the Ulwur Tijara road and carried by means of a canal, constructed in 1873, into a state rund to the south-west of the town. It is probable that this water will hereafter be much farther utilised, for it is capable of reaching the land of many villages, and if undiverted reaches the bed of the Lindwa. The Tijara bandh stream, when allowed to pass along its natural channel, flows past Tijara to the large village of Shahbad, but a bandh west of the town of Tijara turns it in ordinary years to the north-west, whence it flows past the village of Mandana, where a new bandh has lately been constructed, from which much is expected. At Baghor on the Tijara and Firozpur road a dam bridge has been lately made, intended not to bring in revenue directly, but to benefit the distressed village of Baghor, and to facilitate traffic between Firozpur, Tijara. and Khairthal. Small band/is exist but often require repairs or renewal at Bhindiisf, Bilaspur, Deotana, Chaondi, and Nimli. In the Tapokra pargana the bandh at village Nogaon requires attention. It is of much importance to the village, and very apt to be broken. Dhiriawas and Amlaki are other small bandhs of Tapokra, and at several villages of the Tahsll little bandhs might with advantage be made. The only item of siwdi (that is, village income not derived from the rent of land) which is worth notice is the grazing of the eastern border hills. The amount it yielded was taken into consideration at the last assessment of the villages. The hills adjoining some villages have been regarded as common to those villages, and no boundary lines fixed. One set of such hills are those near Indor Gwalda, &c., in Tapokra. Another are those lying over against Riipbas, Damdama, &c., in Tijara. The Gol and Baghor hills of the same pargana are a third. In the neighbourhood of the hills water is generally a long way below the surface. Elsewhere in the Tahsil it is usually from 20 feet to 50 feet. The climate of Tijara is very healthy, and disease, either of men Climate. i i < or cattle, is little complained of. of the Bengal army. The Landhawats say they come of a Tonwar Rajput who married a Musalman Chauhan's daughter. They were at their best about 160 years ago, when Shera Landhawat of Baghor held many villages. The Ghaserias were locally powerful about 130 years ago. The Gorwdls were said to be the offspring of a Kbanzada of Sareta and a slave girl. They have four villages, of which Nimli is the chief. They say they formerly had twenty-four, and held the eastern valley from Shadipur southwards, but were ousted by the Landhawats. The Dulots are said to be descended from the son of a Kachwaha chief of Amber, who was excommunicated for killing a calf in mistake for a nilgde, and who then married a daughter of the Indor Khanzada. Bulots and Dadwals are other Meo clans of Tijara. ( 129 ) In several of the tahsils the pargana Kanungos have preserved village revenue papers called mudzinas (meaning "weighing" or "estimating"). These documents, which will be noticed under each tabsll where any exist, are of varying dates, of which the earliest is H. 937 (A.D. 1531), and usually were compiled under the direction of the imperial officials. There are, however, some dates of the Hindi era, and the papers bearing them are of the time of Siwai Jai Singh. The Tijara papers are dated 1192 Fasli (A.D. 1787). The old area of Tijara, as recorded in the muazinas, is 149,520 bighas, and its jumma Rs. 42,007. This measurement is not very different from the result of the regular survey, which gives 152,014 as the area. As the Akbari bigha is used in each case, this is testimony to the care of the imperial surveyors. An old revenue statement of the Suba of Shahjah4nabad (Dehli), within which the subdivisions known as sirkar howeli Tijdra, and pargana Indor (Tapokra) were situated, gives the revenue of the first as 43,229, of the second 100,337 dams. The statement was prepared in the fourteenth year of Muhammad Shah, i.e., A.D. 1733. The average revenue of the Tijara pargana for five years of Najaf Khau's rule those between A.D. 1790 and A.D. 1794 was Rs. 19,375. For the next five years, when the Marhattas were in power, Rs. 25,066. For five years beginning from A.D. 1809, after Bakhtawar Singh had acquired the parganas, the average was Rs. 40,412. The Kanungos papers give the revenue for each of the years included within these periods. The changes in the limits of the pargana of Tijara during the last 150 years are on record in the Kanungo's office, but there is no occasion to detail them here. With the pargana accountant or Kanungo of Tijara, is associated an hereditary official called a chaudri, a descendant of the turbulent Khanzada of Malikpuri (see below). The family appears to have been an im- portant one and worth conciliating, for the present chaudri holds a deed of Akbar's time bestowing a grant on his ancestor. It is peculiar to Tijara that the " chaudri and kanungo " are usually spoken of together. Indeed, a grant of Aurang- zeb's time bestows Rs. 1500 on them in ndnkdr (as maintenance) conjointly. It is said that a member of the Kanungo's family now resident at Dehli has a portion of the old pargana records. The town of Tijara is situated thirty miles north-east of Ulwtir city. Its population is 7400. The proprietors are Meos, Ma-11 is, and Khanzadas. It has a municipal committee, a dispensary, a school, Tijdraandhis- and a large bazaar. Next to agriculture its principal industries t^ ofthedi8 ~ are weaving and paper-making. As the old capital of Mewat and a place of importance up to recent times Tijara is worthy of a somewhat extended notice. Hindu tradition tells that Tijara was founded by Tej Pal, son of Susar Majit Raja of Sarehta (see Sarehta), and that its an- cient name was Tirgartag. The name of Tej Pal Jadu occurs in Tijara legends con- nected with subsequent periods. Tahsfldar Makhdum Baksli, to whom I am indebted for much information, says that mention of Tijdra is to be found in the Mirdt ul Masaiid, which relates how Saiyad Ibrahim, an officer of Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni, in A.H. 420 (A.D. 1030) attacked Dhundgarh near Rewari, the Raja of which fled to his kinsman Tej Pal of R Rewdil The latter, in a night attack, killed Saiyad Ibrahim, but his disciple Saldr Masaiid (see p. 70) compelled Tej Pal to fly to Tijdra, where, in a battle, three re- latives of Saldr were killed. Their tombs in and near the town of Tijdra are now places of pilgrimage. The principal shrine of the three is that of Rukn Alims, where a fair is held annually, shortly after the Bakra Id festival. The rise of the Khdnzddas of Tijdra, and the strong position of Bahadar Ndhar, Khanzada and his successors in the adjacent hills has already been treated of. About A.H. 856, Tatar Khan was established as governor of Tijdra by the Emperor Bahlol Lodi. A large tomb near Rukn Alims is reputed to be his. From Firishta it appears that one Alain Khan was governor of Tijara in the reign of the Emperor Sikandar Lodi (A.D. 1488-1517), perhaps the Alain Khan Lodi, alias Aldwaldin, who is mentioned amongst the emperor's forty-four officers of distinc- tion, and who was a brother of the emperor. He is thought to be the founder of Aldwalpnr, the remains of which can be traced to the east of the town of Tijara. Other works are attributed to him, amongst them a ruined palace and mosque on the banks of a nallah, over which he built a bridge. He had a steward, Gahla by name, a man so lavish of his master's goods, that the proverb " mal Aldwaldm jas Gahla ka" (the goods Alawaldin's, the credit Gahla's) is still current in the neighbourhood. Makhdum Baksh surmises that a splendid Pathan tomb, the dome of which is a striking object for miles round the town, was built to the memory of Alawaldin, as no other Pathan of sufficient rank is known to have been resident at Tijara. For notice of Tijdra in Bdbar's time, see page 6. The Tijdra district in Akbar's time lost some of its importance. It became a division of the Dehli Siiba ; and as the Khdnzddas were subdued, the town ceased to be the headquarters of a great officer, though a " Hdkim " (ruler) was always resident. One of these Hakims, in the reign of Shdhjahdn, built a shrine over the grave of a saint named Ghdzf Gadan, which received a grant of land, and is still in repute. In Aurangzeb's time, Ikram Khan Khdnzdda, ancestor of the present Chaudri of Tijdra, resided at Malikpuri, now a ruin near village Bdghor, and plundered the country. He took the Hdkim's nakdra and nisJidn (kettle-drum and standard), and in consequence an imperial force marched against him. At village Bdmateri, Ikram Khdn, who had surrendered himself, was put to death, and his family, on the approach of the force, blew themselves up. Two of his sons, however, Muhammad and Ndr Khdn, escaped through the interposition of a Moolla, their tutor. In the time of the Emperor Muhammad Shdh, the Jdt leader, Churaman, reached Tijdra, plundering the country wherever he went. He completely destroyed Aldwal- pur ; and when its fugitive inhabitants returned they took up their residence in Tijdra, and Aldwalpur remained a ruin. Tijdra changed hands frequently after this, as has been already related. Ismail Beg was the last distinguished Musalman who held the town and district. Tahsildar Makhdum Baksh discovered at Tijdra a voluminous Persian diary of the events of a portion of the unsettled period. It had been kept for many years subsequent to H. 1177 (A.D. 1764) by Mian Yumis, whose grandson, a Raj pensioner named Mian Sdla Mulla Shdh, kindly permitted it to be examined. It tells how Ismail Beg, when pressed by the Mdrhattas, caused holy men to curse his enemies ; and they accord- ingly repeated a line of the Kordn, conjoined with an anathema on the Southerners. The curse (saifi), however, acted backwards, for a rebellion broke out in Ismail ( 131 ) Beg's army, part of which left him. But he determined again to try cursing, and collected a number of fakeers, before whom a cloth with twelve seers of grain on it was placed. Taking up a grain at a time, they cursed a Marhatta soldier, and placed the cursed grains in a heap apart. It was thus intended to curse the whole Marhatta army man by man, but before the operation was complete a gust of wind blew up the cloth, mingling the cursed with the uncursed grains, and men felt that it was all up with Ismail Beg. He fought a battle, however, at Patun,* in which he was beaten and his army scattered after which the Mdrhattas took possession of Tijdra. Sindiah appointed two pundits as Amils, or revenue collectors, and Musahib Khan Khdnzdda of Shahbad (see Shahbdd) was put at the head of the military force. He acted in concert with Jowdhir Khan, grandfather of the present Chaudrl of Tijara. After a time they quarrelled. Johwdhir Khan and the Amla formed one party and Musahib Khan another. The latter got possession of the town, whereupon Jowahir Khan called upon the Bdghoria Meos to attack it. The Baniyas promised Musahib Khan a ball of gold if he would protect them from being plundered, and he accordingly defended the town for two months ; but at length the Meos made a successful assault, and entered and fired the town. Musahib Khan fought all day, and at night retired to the fort at the great Pathan tomb near the Government garden. From this, however, be was driven by the Meos, who, having discovered the Baniyas hidden in tke Kazees' quarter, levied Rs. 10,000 from them. After this two Marhattas, Imrat Rao and Biswas Rai, were placed in charge of Tijdra, Kot Kasim, and Rewdrl. In ii. 1211 (A.D.. 1796) the Jats again took Tijara, and one Pundit Sada Naud was appointed " Hakim." Sher Ghuldm Hasan and Ghuldm Husain were Amils under him. They were constantly fighting with the Meos, and it is said they were invulnerable, so that when, after a day's fighting, they at night untied their girdles, ten or twelve bullets which had stuck in their clothes would fall to the ground. During the period that Mewat was in the hands of the Marhattas Appa Khanda Rao assigned the celebrated George Thomas parganas in Mewat for the maintenance of his troops. He reached Tijdra on a dark and rainy night, and as the people stole a horse, &c., from the very centre of his camp, he attacked the town. His troops ran away, but Thomas' courage saved him. He extricated a 9-pounder gun which had stuck in a nallah, turned it on the enemy, rallied his men, and drove off their assail- ants. The Meos then submitted, paid revenue, and made good the lost property. After some villages had been burnt the people became manageable.t In A.D. 1805, after the defeat of the Marhattas, Tijdra, with other parganas, was conferred on Bakhtdwar Singh Maharao Raja of Ulwur, but the Meo population was very rebellious. In H. 1223 (A.D. 1808 ; I give the date from the diary of Muhammad Yusiif) Nand Lai, the Ulwur Chief's Diwan, took Indor (see Indor), but there was much fighting with the Meos for years, especially in H. 1229 (A.D. 1814), when the pargana was measured. Tijdra was placed by the Mahardo Rdjd in the charge of one Jahdz, a cJiela or slave, who, by exchanging turbans with the principal Meos, established friendly rela- tions with them, so that when ordered to send the leading Meos into Ulwur, he had no difficulty in getting them to come to a feast, where they were all seized, carried to * See also Keene's Mughal Empire, page 195. t Skinner's Life, vol. i. p. 203. ( 132 ) Ulwur, and compelled to pay Us. 10,000 for their release. One Bagwan Dass was seat to realise the money, and oppressed the Meos much. He was joined by Jahaz, who plundered villages Lapdla, Palasll, Nimll, and Alapiir. Khawani Meo of Lupala was an active insurgent, and, being seized by Jahaz, was put to death. For five years Nawab Ahmad Baksh Khan, the famous Vakeel, held Tijara par- gana, for which he paid Rs. 70,000, and iu A.D. 1826 Balwant Singh, illegitimate son of Bakhtawar Singh, came to Tijara, which with other territories was conferred upon him and his legitimate issue. He lived at first iu a lofty, well-situated palace adjoining the town. The garden which was attached to it contains a comfortable bungalow, and the ice-house hard by still supplies the Darbar. Eventually Balwant Singh resolved to make his fort and chief place of residence on a conspicuous emi- nence overhanging a gorge in the hills to the east of the town. Very handsome buildings were constructed, chiefly out of the ruins of Alawalpur, and a fine masonry dam was thrown across the gorge, whereby a lake was formed. The whole design had not reached completion when Balwant Singh died childless, in A.D. 1845, and his territory reverted to Ulwur. Since then his fort has been unoccupied, but the situa- tion is attractive, and the buildings handsome and commodious, so that it is not likely to remain desolate. Balwant Singh left a good reputation behind him in the country he ruled for nineteen years. Besides the erections of Balwant Singh the grand Pathan tomb, and other buildings already mentioned the masonry remains iu and near Tijara which strike the eye are a mosque and tomb of a holy disciple of the Ajmlr Khwajas, a mile to the north-west of the city, the tomb of a Saiyad about the same distance to the north, the tombs of Khanzadas Lai Khan and Alawaldln in the town, and of Hasan Khan on the nallah bank to the south. The Tijarah hills were once very famous. Ancient legends tell of chiefs who had their strongholds within them, and history records the Tijarah Mils. efforts of emperors to gain and keep possession of them. They lie along the north-east border of the Ulwur State, arid form a double range running from north to south. They are nowhere more than 1350 feet high. Their skirts are often faced by broken ground, advantageous for defence. Their slopes and summits are sometimes barren, but oftener covered with dhauk and other useful browsing shrubs, while the saneji (a vetch), lamp, and bharut grasses are abundant. The hills are so flat at the top that formerly a road was run along the summit for many miles, and connected the principal Khanzada strongholds (Indor, Kotila, &c.) which were situated on the hills. A causeway by village Dhakpuri led from Kotila down into the open valley east of Balwaut Singh's bandh, where there are traces of several old towns. Through the southern part of this valley runs the only road passable by carts from Tijara through the hills. It leads to Firozpur, a town of some importance iu the Gurgaom district. There are other passes for beasts of burden in the hills near Tijara. The best is that via village Arandh, in the valley mentioned above, which is reached either by way of Balwant Singh's bandh, or by a passage through the first range of hills near village Alapur. This last passage must have been the one used between Kotila and Tijara, when both were places of political im- portance. ( 133 ) The Araudli pass is used by travellers from Tijara to the Gurgaom towns of Nagina and Pinangwau Shahbad, about two miles west of Tijara. Number of houses, 503 ; population, 2369. It has a ].argan, good bazaar. The proprietors are Khanzadas, and there are some large tombs of its ancient Khanzada possessors. A sanad of Akbar's time speaks of "Tijara Shahbad" as though they were the principal towns of a district. Tiie founder of Shahbad was a Kbanzada from Tijara ; and the most distinguished of his line was Firoz Khan, who was made a Nawab by the Dehli emperor, and killed in the battle fought in H. 1124 between Jahauddr Shah and Azim-u-shan. He received Shahbad and twelve other villages in jdgir. This jaglr was retained until M. R. Banni Singh's time, when the family was deprived of it ; but he subsequently bestowed the command of fifty horses, which is still held by the family. They afterwards held Tijara in farm for ten years. The representatives of the family say that being rightfully the jagirdars of Shahbad, they did not claim the " biswadari " or proprietorship, as being beneath them, and other Khanzadas descended from the founder hold it. It is worthy of note, as showing that some attempt was at times made to protect villagers under a contractor, that the patta or lease by which the farm was held stipulates that for village expenses (malbah) not more than five per cent, on the revenue should be exacted, and that for every plough which abandoned the village the farmers should pay a fine of Rs. 100. Bhindihi, seven miles from Tijara, on the Kishengarh road, is a Khanzada village. It has a small bazaar, and some well-to-do families live there. One . . ' . . , , ., BhmdQsf. of them has made a garden and resting-place for travellers journeying to Kishengarh. There are old mosques and an old tomb of some reputation in the village, and on its border a " Salar ka rnakan," or hermitage, the fakir of which brought a brick from Mecca one hundred years ago, and a grant was made him by two villages in consequence. Isroda, five miles north-west of Tijara, is the principal Ahir village. It is on bad terms with the Meos. The most noticeable thing about it is the masonry house and yard, said to have cost Rs. 12,000, built by a chuprassee of one of the Rajputana political agencies a good many years ago. The family has, however, been reduced to poverty. Baghor is a village of no account now, but from it sprung one of the most power- ful Meo clans of Tiiara. Shera Laudhawat of Baghor flourished about , . .^T Baghor. one hundred and fifty years ago. His five sons obtained possession of fifteen villages, their descendants are called Baghorias, and they claim still certain proprietory rights hi Baghor. Within the Baghor boundary are the ruins of the old Khanzada stronghold of Malikpurf, once a place of importance. The road between Tijara and Firozpur has within the Baghor boundary a bridge dam on it, which it is hoped will benefit the lands of Baghor. Baghor is five miles south-east of Tijara. Nimli, the principal village on the Tijara Firozpur road. It is situated seven miles from Tijara, within the valley of Balwant Singh's dam. It has N . .. a tomb and a mosque and numerous old masonry buildings, which show it to have been once a considerable place. Nimli is the principal village of the Gorwal Meos. ( 134 ) SareMa, in the same valley, four miles east of Tijara, under the border hills. It is a town famous in the history of Khanzadas, who are said to have come thence to Tijara. Tej Pal, the first reputed llaja of Tijara, is likewise said to have come therefrom, and the Gorwal Meos assert that they sprung from Sarehta. It is now only a poor Meo village. The ruins of substantial houses about it are numerous, and there is a curious old mosque, the pillars of which are evidently taken from some ancient Hindu building. It has the narrow tapering bastions one observes in gateways at Gwalior and elsewhere. Damdamma, in the same valley, four miles north of Sarehta, and only remarkable as having within its boundary the ruins of a fortified town named Gehrol, formerly occupied by Khanzadas. It is situated at the foot of the path which leads up to Kotila, Bahadar Nahar's stronghold, and thence on to Indor (see page 3, and Indor). There is a stone causeway over the broken por- tion of this path. Several such are to be found in the passes of these hills. They are probably imperial works undertaken to maintain the subjection of the Khanzadas after Babar had conquered them. Mandka, seven miles west of Tijara. The only Saiyad village in the Tahsll. The people are connected with the Khairthal Saiyads, and have been estab- lished at Mandha for four or five hundred years. There is a half-built fort in the village, begun by Faizulla Khan Khanzada of Shahbad, who was in power for a time some eighty years ago. He was offended with the Saiyads for refusing a matrimonial alliance with him, and to build his fort he destroyed twenty-two of their masonry houses (howelis). Tapokra, the present headquarters of the pargana, where there are a Peshkar and kanuugo under the authority of the Tahsildar of Tijara. There is a school at Tapokra, a bazaar, and some con- spicuous masonry buildings. It is twelve miles north of Tijara, and lias a population of about 600 only. Indor gave its name to the present Tapokra pargana, which is indicated under that name in the Ain Akbari. It is now almost en- tirely in ruins, though once one of the most important places in Mewat. The old ruined town lies in a valley of the border hills, ten miles east of Tapokra. The fort, which is occupied by a Raj garrison, is on the hill range east of the old town, which has shrunk to an insignificant village. It is said to be very ancient, and to have been built by the Nikumpa Rajputs. After Bahadar Nahar's time Indor seems to have become the chief strong- hold of Mewat. The name of Jalal Khan, a descendant of Bahadar Nahar's, is the principal one connected with it (see p. 4). The tradition regarding him, if not literally true, at least illustrates the right claimed by the clan to choose its head notwithstanding hereditary right, and imperial opposition : It is said, I believe erroneously, that Ulwur had been the chief Khanzada town before Jalal Khan's election ; but on some occasion, when the members had assem- bled to pay their respects to their chief, he would not appear, and a slave desired them to salute his shoes instead. They all left in a rage, and set up as their leader ( 135 ) Jaldl KMn, who resided at Dddoli, now in the Gurgaom district. Him the Jhamrd- wat Khdnzdda noble, whose function it was to impress the tika on the forehead of a new chief as it is of a Rahtor Thdkur in Mdrwar, of a Jdt in Bikanir, of a Mind in Jaipur duly recognised ; and when subsequently the Khdnzada of Jhamrdwat was ordered by the emperor to do homage to the deposed chief of Ulwur, he refused, and was in consequence built alive into a wall at Labor. Jaldl Khdn is said to have borne sway from Narnol to near Muttra, and northwards to Baunsrf. General Cun- ningham has coins which were struck in his name. What is historically known of him has been already detailed (page 4). He is spoken of as Jallu. Jaldl Khan's tomb is to the south of the fort. It and some about it are impos- ing domed structures. There are twelve or fifteen domes in the locality to the memory of Khanzada nobles ; and below the fort are the tombs of some Shekhs who were of importance at one time in the neighbourhood. The hills about Indor are held by the Darbdr, and form extensive grazing grounds for camels and cattle, as they are covered with "dauk" trees. A revenue of Rs. 1200 is derived from them by the State. A Khdngdh, or Musalman shrine called Chandan Martyr's, is situated on the west range near Indor, and is of some importance, because on the pathway between the British town of Noh and several villages of Ulwur ; to the traders and travellers, of which this shrine affords a shady resting-spot after a tedious climb up the hill range ; and if its tanks were repaired it would furnish them with a drink of water too. The present Khdnzddas of Indor are poor, but they hold the proprietorship, and maintain a moollah to call the " Azdn," or summons to prayers, and to educate their children. They do not yet plough with their own hands, and they preserve the records of better days. One document they produced dated Rabi ul dwal, H. 970, and bearing the Emperor Akbar's seal, directs the Chaudri Kdnungo and mukadams of " Sirkar Ulwur " to assist certain Khdnzddas of the Indor family, who had been commissioned to put down insurrection in that Sirkdr. The Meos for a time were in possession of Indor, and in A.D. 1808 Nand Ldl Diwdn captured it. The event was regarded by the Darbdr as a very happy one, and M. R. Baktdwar Singh himself visited the fort. He travelled by the old hill road vid Gehrol and Kotila already mentioned. The Musalman servants of the Raj found the date i.e., H. 1223 in the words " Mubdrikbdd fatah killa Indor." Alasit, a village a mile south of Tapokra, remarkable for its old mosque (built, it is said, by the Pathans more than bOO years ago), which gives .. - n Masit. its name to the village. Jewdno is a Meo village five miles north-east of Tapokra. Its population is very small. The village contains a mosque, and other relics of the Khdnza- das, who are said to have been ousted by Rdo Rdja Bahddar Singh, the Rdjput chief of Gasera, in the Gurgaom district, who built a fort at Jewdno. In 8. 1810 (A.D. 1753), the year of the great famine known as the " Dasotra," he erected near Jewdno a magnificent " bandh," or dam, in the stream, which, during the rains, flows from the Eastern hills. It was swept away by a great flood, -which is said to have carried fragments seven miles, and that these were sufficient to supply material for two wells which still exist. In 8. 1814 (A.D. 1757) the Jdts took Jewdno, and the well-to-do all abandoned the place, from dread of cruel extortion. Twenty-two sub- stantial houses were thus left unoccupied, and their owners are said not to have ( 130 ) returned. The present traders are new men. In Balwau t Singh's time Jewano was held in jaglr by his Rassaladar Balwant Singh. Kishengarh is the northern talisil which adjoins Tijara on the west. It Kishengarh nas Kot Ka*iim of Jaipur on its north. Like Tijara this tsihsil is in Mewat. Its area is about 217 square miles, and its population about 61,000. There are nine paraganas or sub-divisions in the Tahsil, containing 144 fiscal villages and 15 rent free. The following shows the parganas, fiscal villages, and castes of their population : | 73 s a . S Pi . ^ 8 | - 2 J a .9 I 3*3 .? .a a 3 S ^a P rf "3 2 i 3 V -*3 2 JH "S 00 ja d ss >09 c* s >- o o- 5J PM 9 .a S^ (3 M o H S 5 Ismailpur . 14 1 i 16 Ban i bora . 38 1 1 1 1 1 2i 45i Bagora . . 7 7 5 Bahddarpur 4 4 Pur . . . 4 1 2 l i 2 ... 1 12 Fatahabdd 5 3 2 9 2 8 2 1 1 33 Khairthal . 1 - 1 2 Nurnagar . 7 1 9 1 9 13 Harsoli 7 4 ^ 1 1 1 16 Total . . 83 12 6 2 1 13 4 3 11 4 1 2 6^ 148 For statistics in detail regarding the tahsil, see pages 187, 191. Half the soil of the Kishengarh Tahsil is good. The chief crops grown are in order of importance bajra, jawar, barley, and cotton. The principal rain stream comes from the Mandawar direction, and much good " dahrl " land is formed by it, partly by means of a fine bandh thrown across the stream at village Bagheri. It is not a new one, but has been lately greatly improved and strengthened. The water of the wells is sometimes as deep down as 80 feet, but it usually ranges between 15 feet and 35 feet. The Mudzinas of Kishengarh bear date F. 1144 (A.D. 1740). The following figures will assist some comparison between the past and present : Pargana Pur, consisting of twelve villages, is recorded to have had an area of 16,234 Wghas (Akbari), and a revenue of Rs. 4253. Its area, according to the Settlement Survey, is 14,149 bighas, and its revenue Rs. 19,680. Each of the nine parganas of Kishengarh, except Khairthal, has Kantingo. , a separate Kanungo. Before the Jats came in s. 1791 (A.D. 1734), there was a tahsil at Bambohra, Account of where the revenue of Bambohra and neighbouring parganas was col- Tahsil. lected. No resistance seems to have been made to the Jats under Siiraj Mai by the Dehli Amil of Bambohra, one Kazi Haiyati, whose family still live t 137 ) at Bambolira, where the Kazi had erected a mosque and Idgah. The following year Suraj Mai took Ismailpur and built a small fort (garhi) near it at Siwana, which was destroyed by the Marhatta Appa Tantia. In s. 1805 (A.D. 1748) Suraj began the fort now known as Kishengarh. He first stuck up a lingam in a small temple, built by his officer Kishen Singh, near the proposed moat. The temple is called the Kishaneswa. Within the fort a temple to Bihariji was built and endowed. The outer ramparts of the fort are earthen^ the inner of masonry. Kishengarh became the headquarters of a revenue officer, who had under him most of the present tahsil. The Jat chief rendered the Bambohra Pass, through which the road to Ulwur runs, practicable for carts, and established chauHs on and below the pass, which was placed in charge of a Meo of a neighbouring village. On the Bambohra side of it a fine garden was made. The Jats held Kishengarh until s. 1826 (A.D. 1769), when Mirza Murad Beg and Abdulla Beg Mughals came from Dehli and besieged the fort. They placed a battery on the Tankaheri hill to the west, and the effects of the bombardment are still appa- rent. They took the place and held it for sixteen years. A ruined bazaar known as Muradganj was built by them, and two of their tombs remain. The Marhattas ousted the Mughals in s. 1841 (A.D. 1784). Eight years after- wards Partap Singh took Ismailpur, five miles south-west of Kishengarh, but the Marhattas retook it a few months afterwards. In s. 1862 (A.D. 1805) General Lake attacked Bhartpur, and a British detach- ment occupied Kishengarh, commanded by an officer named Denny. The detach- ment remained there six months, after which Kishengarh, with other territory, was transferred under treaty to Bakhtawar Singh of Ulwur. Fatahabad, Kishengarh, and Ismailpur each at that time had a tahsil. In s. 1866 (A.D. 1809) the Fatahabad Tahsil was abolished, as also was the Ismailpur tahsil in s. 1917 (A.D. 1860). In A.D. 1872 the Jhindoli Tahsil was abolished. The villages of all these were attached to Kishengarh, which also received, in A.D. 1872, seven villages of Bahadarpur, another abolished tahsil. The same year two villages of Khairthal were attached to the Mandawar Tahsil, to which, in Bakhtawar Singh's time, some Khairthal villages had already been added. Kishengarh, the headquarters of the tahsil, has been already spoken of. It has 712 houses, and 2216 inhabitants. It is connected by a metalled road with Khairthal, Tijara, and Ulwur. Bds Kirpdlnagar, a mile to the west of Kishengarh, is the only place of considerable trade. It is said there are four or five houses with T7- 5rn &i n . Bus Karpalna^ar. a capital each of Us. 50,000. It has 380 houses, with a popula- tion of 1726. Mahajans are the principal inhabitants. Khairthal, on the railway, connected with Kishengarh by a metalled road, ranked next to Bas as a place of trade, but the railway will, no doubt, soon Khairthal. give it the first place. It has 478 houses, and a population of 2728. The principal inhabitants are Saiyads, some of whom have high office in Jaipur. Khairthal gives its name to one of the nine old parganas which make up the present tahsil of Kishengarh. ( 138 ) Bambohra, the old headquarters of the Imperial Amil, has been already spoken of. It has 411 houses, and 1858 inhabitants. It. too, names a par- Bambobra. gana. Pur, the old headquarters of a pargana, has but 198 houses, and 993 inhabitants. Nftrna Niliiiagar, though the head of a pargana of thirteen villages, has but 92 houses and 395 inhabitants. Ilarsoli, the fifth pargana headquarters, is a fine village ; but as it is held rent-free by the Majee, there is no information about it. Bdghora. which named the sixth pargana, has 125 houses, and BAgbora. . ' ' 779 inhabitants. Ismailpur, head of the seventh pargana, has 609 houses, and 2659 Ismailpur. . . . . inhabitants. Bahddarpur is in the Ulwur Tahsil, though four of its villages are Babadarpur. . .. . , , in the Kishengarh. Fatahabdd, the chief village of the ninth pargana, has 109 houses, and 628 in- habitants. Formerly it was, as ruins show, a considerable place, but some of its wealthy merchants are said to have mortally offended the Khanzadas of Alamdl, a village not far off, and the latter, about one hundred and fifty years ago, put them to death by fastening thongs (tdnt) round their testicles, and drag- ging them till they died. Their relations brought the Jats of Bhartpur upon the Khan- zadas, who retaliated by destroying Fatahabdd, in conjunction with some Meos, and it has never recovered from the devastation. The locality has a bad reputation, as the following popular rhyme shows : " A-gam kamaya pacham kamaya, Khub kamaya paisa ; Aya Fatahabad ki gunf, Jaisa ka taisa." " Far I went in search of gain, And much gain I got ; But when I reached Fatahabad hollow I was as empty as I started." The northern tahsil on the west of Kishengarh is Mandawar. The foreign Mandawar territory adjoining it is the Nabha pargana of Bawal, and the Tahsil. group of isolated British villages, of which Shahjahanpur, famous for its Mina Dacoits, is the chief. It is situated partly in the tract known as Kaht, partly in Mewat. The area of the tahsil is about 229 square miles, and its population about 54,000. There are 127 fiscal and 17 jagir villages in the six pnrganas or frag- ments of parganas. The fiscal are as follows : ( 139 ) 11 92 Musalman Rajput. c 3 1 Si 'v5" 1 Brahmin. 1 1 Mandawar 2 5 18 12 9 - 6 46 Kami Kot fl 1 8 q 9 4 27 Barod 3 1 8 4 1 11 KLshengarh pargana 2 2 Jhindoli 1 2 9 5 1 I 9 1 4 28* Harsora 1 1 2 Total .... 10 9 31 30 6 12 1 17 116 * And one depopulated. For statistics in detail see pages 187, 191. The soil of the MandaVar Tahsil is for the most part good, though there is a large percentage of inferior. The chief crops grown are, in order of quan- tity, bajra, gram, barley, jawar. On the banks of the Sabi and elsewhere there is some inferior . DaJiri, but scarcely any very good, and not much of any. The depth below the surface at which water is sometimes first met with is 80 feet, but usually it varies from 20 feet to 40 feet. The tract included in the Mandawar Tahsil has been chiefly in the hands of the Chuhan Thakurs, spoken of under Aristocracy. Manda- ,,,,,,, Mandawar war is mentioned among the parganas ceded to the Maharao town and of Ulwur by Lord Lake. neighbourhood. The town of Mandawar is nearly surrounded by hills, outworks, as it were, of the rocky region further south. They run up to a height of 1757 feet, and have afforded a refuge to the family of the Rao in times of difficulty. Springs and water-tanks, and even wells, are to be met with in these hills, which abound in panthers, and the people around are much harassed by these animals. Oue spring and tank known as Bok Raja's " Kund " is a sacred bathing-place. It has already been mentioned that Mandawar is the seat of the Musalman Rao of a great Chauhan family. The traders are of the Mahur clan, which supplanted the Khandelwal, formerly established at Mandawar. The ruin of the Khandelwal and the rise of the Mahur is attributed to the curse of a fakir, whom the former, notwith- standing their wealth, sent to be entertained by the latter. Khanzadas formerly occupied a hamlet of Mandawar, but abandoned it on discovering the intention of the Rao to destroy them. Besides the Rao's residence, the buildings of note are mosques and tombs. One of the mosques has an inscription showing that it was constructed in Akbar's time. Close to the town in the hills is a large and ancient tank known as the Sagar Sah. ( 140 ) When, many years ago, it was broken down the neighbourhood suffered much from the subsidence of water in wells. It was, however, restored in 8. 1909, but requires cleaning out. There is a Thana, as well as a Tahsfl, at Mandawar. The number of houses is 482 and the population 2337. It is twenty-two miles north of Ulwur. Kddiniagar has a police post here. The village is situated eight miles south of Mandawar. There is a ruined bandh here, which, if built substantially, would give the village some dahri. Jhindoli gives its name to a pargana. It is ten miles south of Mandawar. The village belonged to the Chauhans of Pahal. It has 334 houses and a population of 1549 people. Pahal, three miles south of Mandawar. The Chauhans of this place played an important part in local history, and did brave service for the Jaipur chief in the last century. They hold the village on an Istamrarl tenure. The present population is very small. There are ruins of fine buildings on the hills above it. Iron-smelting is carried on at Pahal. Karnikot, eight miles north-west of Mandawar, on the Sabf, is only remarkable as having a small fort and a police post. The fort was built by M. R. Bakhtawar Singh in 1862. Bywdr, the seat of a tdzirrii Chauhan Thakur connected with the Pahal family. It has 312 houses and 1602 inhabitants. A rampart encircles the village. It is eight miles north-west of Mandawar. rhalsa. Phalsd has 358 houses and 1988 inhabitants. K&lirnagar. Jhindoli. PaliaL Karnikot. Bijw&r. The Bahror Tdhsil forms the north-west territory of the State. In passing round its border it will be found that the civil Bahror Tahsil. . . " f . .. . ., . . jurisdiction of the territory just outside it changes seven times. On the south-west is a little of Kot Putli lying between the Sabi and the Sot a, then conies Patiala territory, then Nabha. On the north is Gurgaom. North- east, Nabha territory (the Bawal pargana) is again met with, then a point of Ulwur, then the detached Shahjahanpur and other villages of Gurgaom, and finally Ulwur territory. The Bahror Tahsil is in the Kaht. Its area is about 264 square miles, and its population about 60,000. There are three parganas, containing 131 fiscal and 20 rent-free villages. *e-2! -a i I 8 . ~ r; B is ^3 r^ i Wrt n 1-5 o ^ N S H Mandan 13 1 2 ... 11 ... 8 35 Bahror 5 1 8 54 3 9 80 Barod 4 ... 2 2 6 ... 2 16 Total . 22 2 4 10 71 3 19 131 See pages 187, 191, for detailed statistics. ( 141 ) The revenue crop rates were introduced under the direction of Amu Jan, the Diwan from Dehli of M. R. Banni Singh. They appear to have been ex- tionally heavy, if the character of the soil be considered. They were per Raj bigha ('4 of an acre) as follows : Bahror. M;i n dun. Bdrod. Wheat .... 7 4 ,,.... 6 Barley .... 6 3 8 ... 5 . . . Barley (unirrigated) 3 ... Cotton (irrigated) . 3 12 ... 32 (unirrigated) 2 12 ... 1 12 Jawar (irrigated) 3 ... ... (unirrigated) 2 10 1 Indian corn (irrigated) 3 ... 2 13 Gram .... 2 1 Bajra .... 1 12 ... ... > 1 6 . . . Moth and inferior pulses < 1 4 1 2 9 6 C 15 The soil of the tahsil is very poor in Mandan. On the whole, about half is good, half inferior and bad. The chief crops grown are in order of extent, bajra, moth, gram, barley. There is no flooded land (dahri) outside the beds of nallahs, and but very little culturable uallah land (katli). This last lies along the bed of the Sota and Sabi nal- lahs, which unite at Islampur, five miles south-east of the town of Bahror. The depth below the surface of water is often considerable, sometimes as much as 130 feet, but usually varying from 20 feet to 50 feet. The mudzinas of the Bahror pargaua bear date F. 1176 (A.D. 1771). Those of the Barod F. 1237 (A.D. 1734). According to these mudzinas the area of eighteen villages amounted to 35,731 bighas,* and their revenue to Rs. 8766. The Settlement survey makes the same villages 26,856 bighas, and they have been assessed at Rs. 32,839. The parganas of Bahror formed part of the Narnol subah during the Mughal Imperial period, but I believe that Chauhans were generally the principal rulers of the country up to the occupation of it by the Jats, who took possession of Bahror, and were succeeded there by Partap Singh. The hold of the latter, however, was feeble. Nimrana, the chief of which is almost independent of Ulwur, lies to the north-east of Bahror (see p, 121). Bargujar jagirdars are also of some importance, their chief village is Tahsin. The town of Bahror is situated thirty-four miles north-west from Ulwur, and twelve miles south-east of Narnol the nearest town of importance. It has 1030 houses and 5368 inhabitants. Bahror. Tliis muazina bigha wasevideutly the bame as the present Raj bigha. ( H2 ) There is a mud fort about 50 yards square, with a Raj garrison, and besides the tahsil, a police post, and school, a new school-building has been erected. There is a fair bazaar, numerous masonry buildings and gardens, but the town is said never to have recovered from its spoliation by the Marhattas s.1860. Mdndan, sixteen miles north-east of Bahror, was the headquarters of a separate tahsil. It has a population of about 2000. On the hill above it is a fort made of slate. A Hindu shrine is a conspicuous object a little above the town. Nimrdna, ten miles north-east of Bahror. Only remarkable as the seat of the Maharaja of Nimrana, whose position has been already described. He has a fort and palace on the slope of a hill range, but it is in a dilapi- dated condition. BdroJ. The Chauhan Thakur of this place has already been mentioned. It is the old headquarters of a pargana. It is six miles east of Bahror ; a " rund " full of game lies near it on the west. The Middle parganas, or those just below the four northern, and Middle .i us ^ above the four southern, are Govindgarh, Ramgarh, Ulwur, parganas. BatlSUr. Goviudgarh is the eastern-most of the middle parganas. It juts out, forming, so to speak, a peninsular of Ulwur in Bhartpur territory. It is in Mewat, is about 52 square miles in extent, and has a population of about 26,000. The tahsil consists of but one pargana. It contains 3 rent-free and 53 fiscal villages ; the detail of the latter is as follows : Maudan. Nimrana. Barod. Mina. Gfijar. Malli. Meo. Mixed. Total. Goviudgarh . . . 1 3 2 31 3 40 Ramgarh .... ... 12 1 13 Total .... 1 3 2 43 4 53 For fuller statistics see pages 187, 191. TUe soil of the Govindgarh Tahsil is for the most part good. The chief crops grown are bajra, cotton, and jawar. Formerly this pargana was irrigated by the water of the Ruparel, brought into it by the Hazdri Bandh, the dam on the Ruparel, which affected the battle of Laswarree. The darn was very valuable to the Govindgarh Tahsil, but after an inquiry into the respective claims of the two states, it has been determined that the water is not to be obstructed during the rains, but to be allowed to flow freely into Bhartpur. At present the dahri or flooded land is almost confined to seven villages. Pfpal- khera and Nakatpur, a pair of detached villages lying in Bhartpur territory beyond the Sikri bandh, and Bakshuka and Mallki, a second pair similarly situated. These four villages lie beyond the Sikrl bandh an important irrigation work on the Ru- Average annual collections for ten years from A.D. 1828. Govindgarh Khera Malium will assist comparison between former and present collections. Present Assess- ment. 2950 2850 1050 2770 1850 5100 2720 1700 The change in the productiveness of the pargana is dwelt on in the Settlements Report, p. 184 Acwmnt of In the time of M. R. Bakhtawar Singh, a family of Khanzadas held many villages round the present site of Govindgarh. Nawab Zulfikar Khan was the principal. His seat was known as the Fort of Ghasaoli. About A.D. 1803 Bakhtawar Singh, in conjunction with the Marhattas, expelled him and the 500 horse he is said to have employed. Ghasaoli fort was destroyed, and the site of it is now a Raj grass preserve. The local seat of authority was removed to Govindgarh, a spot very near the old fort. The present fort is said to have been built by Bakhtawar Singh in s. 1862 (A.D. 1805). It is remarkable for the extent of its moat. There are a Thana Tahsil and school in Govindgarh, and the population is 4290. The town is twenty-five miles east of Ulwur. Bainsrdwat, a village four miles south of Govindgarh, containing inhabi- tants. Here there is a platform and building (thara) where for- merly Nar Khan Khanzada, brother of Zulfikar Khan, already men- tioned, dispensed justice, and a ruined fort in which he resided. It is curious that people of the neighbouring villages, which belonged to Nar Khan or his brother, still come to this thara to settle disputes by oath. It is common enough to find cultivators established on the soil, and paying no more than the revenue fairly chargeable on the land they hold. But the cultivators of Bainsrawat, whether baniyas, chumars, mails, or kasais, are, contrary to common custom, permitted to make wells, which they claim as their own. Pipalkhera, miles north-east of Govindgarh, with 439 houses and a popula- tion of 1833. It is, with Nakatpur, situated within Bhartpur, and the _^ two villages do not at any point touch Ulwur territory. The village, with others about it, formerly was held in jagir by a family of Naruka Rajputs, whose claim to proprietory right has been lately recognised in part. ( 144 ) Ramgarh is the middle tahsil next to Qovindgarh, which it adjoins, but most of its eastern border lies along Bhartpur territory, and several Bhartpur villages are isolated within its limits. It also is in Mewat. Its extent is about 146 square miles, and it has a population of 51,000. ij * '3 ?; a S p 1> M | ^ Q 1 H Ramgarh ... 1 ... 77 4 1 13 96 Bahadarpur . ... 2 6 ... ... 1 9 Total . 1 2 83 4 1 14 105 The Meos are chiefly of the Nai and Dulot clans. For Kevenue Statistics see Appendix, page 188, 192. The soil of the Ramgarh Tahsil is generally rich where subject to floods, elsewhere it is for the most part light. The chief crops grown are bajra, barley, jawar. The dahri or flooded land of Ramgarh is the best in the state. The richest is that which the Chiihar Sidh nallah covers. There is also some very good upon the Lindwah. The principal bandh or dam in the tahsfl is the Atria, the object of which is to compel the Lindwah to flow along the foot of the western hills, in order to be utilised by several villages. Smaller embankments in continuation of the main work further this. The Lindwah, which at first flows south, turns to the north-east ; and south of the village of Nogaom there is a dam which turns the water into a canal conveying it to the British territory beyond the border. TheUlwur villagers and officials have been prohibited from destroying the dam and from obstructing the flow of the canal. The people of Banjir Nagla, the border village of the Ulwur Tahsfl, upon the Chiihar Sidh, have recently renewed an old practice of making an earthen dam to raise the water of the Chiihar Sidh. Ordinarily the dam will be swept away by the first week's rain, but the rains might be too scanty to destroy it, in which case it should, I think, be cut within a month of the first rainfall. Buja in the west of the tahsil is, I think, the only village where a bandh requires renewing. Water is occasionally as many as 60 feet below the surface, but for the most part it is not deep down, especially in the villages irrigated by the Lindwah and Chiihar Sidh. Its average depth is from 10 to 25 feet. There are several ranges of hills in Ramgarh or on its borders. The most con- tinuous is that to the west. It is remarkable for the stone causeways which have been made through its passes, over which horses and ele- phants can travel. Kalaghatta, or Black Pass, so called from the colour of its soft elatey stone, is said to be the oldest ; then Rupbas Pass, to the south of it. Further south is Daneta Paas, the most extensive causeway of all. Again south is the Kho Hills. ( 145 ) Pass causeway, made by the disciples of Lai Das, who frequented these hills, and south of that the Baraod Pass causeway, made thirty years ago by a banniah named Dull Chand. Through a break in these hills there was a good deal of traffic between TJlwur and Delhi, vid villages Untwal, Bijwar, and Nogawan. The hills are generally somewhat lower and less regular than the Tijara range, and the grazing is less valuable. One hundred and fifty years ago there were no habitations on the present site of Ramgarh. Some Chumars. under one Bhoja, were first settled there, .... , , Account of in order to relieve their brethren when acting as begars or pressed R&mgarh and porters, between the large villages to the north and Uiwur. The place neighbourhood, was called Bhojpur, and the Chumars were wealthy enough to build masonry houses. In s. 1802 or 1803, Padam Singh Naruka occupied Bhojpur. He seems to have re- ceived the village in Jagir from Jaipur, and to have been assisted in establishing him- self by the Khanzada of Ghasaolf, mentioned under Govindgarh. Padam Singh made the place prosperous, extended his power, and built the fort, which was called Ramgarh. There were then two parganahs within the limits of the present tahsil one Khilora, the other Mubarakpur. Ramgarh was in Khilora. Sanip Singh succeeded his father Padam Singh, whose widow Jodhi ji became Sati. A chattri and well to the south of the town known as mdha satti, marks the scene of the sacrifices. As detailed elsewhere, Sariip Sing, who possessed the present Lachmangarh as well as Ramgarh, came into collision with Partap Singh whom he opposed, or would not co-operate with, against the Khanzada of Ghasaoli, and Partap Singh having got him into his power cruelly murdered him. The Thakur's manager, Nand Lai, by the aid of a Meo of Khilora, escaped to Ramgarh where he resisted the Raja for some time, but eventually had to evacuate the fort. The Tahsil of Ramgarh was then formed, consisting of Khilora and Marakpur and the fort enlarged. The Kanungoes or accountants of the two old parganahs were summoned to Ramgarh, and most of the Khilora traders. Besides the tahsil there is a thana and school at Ramgarh. It is thirteen miles east of Alwar city, and contains 900 houses, and 5474 inhabitants. Aldora, four miles east of Ramgarh, has 407 houses and 1437 inhabitants. It pays a higher revenue than any village in the tahsil, and its land may be regarded as a type of the rich flooded land of the tahsil. There are about a dozen villages with similar land, and perhaps fifteen bearing crops worth twenty-five per cent. less. However, the well-being of Alaora, and many other villages, is entirely dependent upon the arrival of the waters of the Chuhar sidh, which often do not reach so far ; Alaora is said to have been formerly a more considerable village than it is at present, and a stone four kos to the east of it is said to have marked its boundary. There was once a fine tank north-west of the village said to have been constructed by a Ranf. Beside it are the ruins of an elegant twelve-pillared Musalmau tomb. A song in praise of the Rani who made the tomb is current. Ndswdrri, eight miles south-east of Rdmgarh, far better known as Las- warree, is an inconsiderable village, but will be for ever famous in the annuls of British India on account of the important victory there won by Lord Lake on November 1st, 1803. A full account of this ( no ) battle is not now easily obtainable. I therefore insert a somewhat long narrative based on and partly extracted from Thorn's history of the war. Affecting as it did the permanent British relations with Ulwur, and to some extent with the neighbouring states, the victory was an event most important to Rajputana. After the battle of Dehli, in which Lord Lake defeated the Harhattas under M. Louis Bonquin, there still remained fifteen regular battalions, which Siudiah had sent from the Daeccan under the command of M. Dudernaique. The latter surrendered himself to the British force at Muttra, but his battalions remained intact, and were, indeed, augmented by two others, which had escaped from Dehli. This powerful force made no attempt to prevent the capture of Agra by Lord Lake, its object being to recover Dehli, the recapture of which was regarded by Sindiah as of the first importance to his prestige. Lord Lake marched westward from Agra on October 27, 1803, against this force, which was known to be on the borders of Mewat. His army consisted of the 8th, 27th, and 29th Dragoons, the 1st, 2d, 3d, 4th, and 6th Native Cavalry, His Ma- jesty's 76th Foot, the 2d battalion of the 8th, 9th, 12th, and 15th Native Infantry, the 1st battalion of the 12th and 15th Native Infantry, six companies of the 16th Native Infantry, one company of 1st battalion llth Native Infantry. In the afternoon of the 29th October, " a heavy cannonade was heard, which proved to be occasioned by the bombardment of Katumbar, which place the enemy entirely destroyed. The next day the army effected a forced march of twenty miles, leaving the heavy guns and baggage at Futtypur, under the protection of two battalions of Native Infantry, belonging to the 4th brigade. Exertions were made in order to accelerate our advance upon the enemy ; and, accordingly, on the 31st, we encamped at a small distance from the ground which, they had occupied near Katumbar the same morning. In consequence of finding them thus near, the commander-in-chief resolved upon making an immediate effort to come up with them at the head of the cavalry, with whom he might keep them employed, and endeavour to seize their guns and baggage, till, by the junction of the British infantry, who had orders to follow at three in the morning, full advantage might be taken of the confusion produced by his attack. In pursuance of this determination, General Lake set out with the whole of the cavalry the same night at eleven o'clock ; and after a march of twenty-five miles, in little more than six hours, came up with the object of his pursuit about sunrise on the morning of the 1st November." The enemy's force consisted of 17 regular battalions of infantry, to the number of about 9000 men, 72 guns, and 4000 to 5000 cavalry. On our approach it appeared that the enemy were upon the retreat, and that in such confusion as to induce the British general to make an instant attack upon them, without waiting for the arrival of the infantry. The enemy, on their part, were not wanting in the adoption of measures for their defence, and the annoyance of our troops. With this view, by cutting the embankment* across the nallah, the road was rendered extremely difficult for the passage of cavalry, a circumstance which, while it impeded our progress, gave the enemy an opportunity of choosing an advantageous position, their right being in front of the village of Laswaree, and thrown back upon a rivulet, the banks of which were so very steep as to be extremely difficult of access ; while their left was upon the village of * The Hazari Bandh. >* '<^/.- ^Z'r ift"-?~ ffitf ^3i// Xasware t te ^JNi^e^**"* '> '" , '-:.. K. 1^- mm r-k :l ' JP -^' 0^ & 4.0.*^' ^ ^ Jaumporc + -^? c ^'"9?> BATTLE OF LASWAREE. FROM CAPTAIN THORN'S SKETCH. A A. ist Position of enemy's right wing during British Cavalry attack. DD. Position of ditto after arrival of British Infantry. DO. Position of ditto during attack of British Infantry. H. 2Qih Dragoons. E. British Infantry. Mohaulpore, and their entire front, which lay concealed from view by high grass, was defended by a most formidable line of artillery. In addition to these securities of force and situation, the enemy derived an advantage of no small moment from the immense cloud of dust raised by the movement of the cavalry, which so completely obscured the change that had taken place in their position, as to render it impossible for General Lake to avail himself of the circumstance, or to be guided by his observa- vations, where so many perplexities contributed to produce embarrassment. These obstacles, however, which would have deterred an ordinary mind from attempting a desirable object till the prospect of success became more decided, had no other effect on the commander-in-chief than that of leading him to the prompt execution of his original plan, and confirming his resolution of preventing the retreat of the enemy, and of securing the possession of their artillery. Thus fixed in his determination, he ordered the advanced guard, with the 1st brigade of cavalry, to move upon the point where the enemy had been previously seen in motion, but which was, in fact, now be- come the left of their new position. This plan of attack was directed to be followed up by the remainder of the cavalry in succession, as- fast as they could form, immedi- ately on crossing the rivulet. " The obedience of the troops and the alacrity of their officers corresponded with the energy and daring spirit of their leader, as appeared in the charge made by the advanced guard, under Major Griffiths, of His Majesty's 29th Regiment of Dragoons, and aide-de-camp to the Governor-General, as also in that of the 1st brigade, con- ducted by Colonel T. P. Vandeleur, of His Majesty's 8th Regiment of Dragoons. With so much impetuosity were these charges made that the enemy's line was forced, the cavalry penetrated into the village, and several guns were taken ; but the advan- tage was dearly purchased by the loss of the brave Colonel Vandeleur, who was mortally wounded. The attacks made by the other brigades of cavalry were con- ducted with the same spirit and success. The 3d brigade, under the command of Colonel Macan, which was next in succession, consisting of the 29th Regiment of Dragoons and the 4th Regiment of Native Cavalry, attracted particular notice on this occasion. Having received orders to turn the right flank of the enemy, this brigade came up with them at a gallop across the nallah, under a heavy fire from their bat- teries ; then forming instantly into line, and moving on steadily, charged the foe in the face of a tremendous fire from all their artillery and musketry. To the former were fastened chains running from one battery to another, for the purpose of imped- ing the progress of assailants ; while, to make the execution more deadly, the enemy re- served their fire till our cavalry came within the distance of 20 yards of the muzzles of the guns, which, being concealed by the high grass jungle, became perceptible only when a frightful discharge of grape and double-headed shot mowed down whole divisions, as the sweeping storm of hail levels the growing crop of grain to the earth. But notwithstanding the shock of this iron tempest, and the awful carnage produced by it in our ranks, nothing could repress the ardour of the cavalry, whose velocity overcame every resistance. Having penetrated through the enemy's line, they immediately formed again, and charged backwards and forwards three times, with surprising order and effect, amidst the continued roar of cannon and an incessant shower of grape and chain shot." The cavalry had extraordinary difficulties to overcome, for no sooner had they charged through than the artillerymen of the enemy, who, to save themselves, had taken shelter under their guns, when our men had passed, reloaded them, and fired upon our rear. Their battalions, which were drawn up behind a deep entrenchment covered by backeries, carts, bullocks, and other cumbrous baggage, kept up a galling fire with musketry, which did great execution. " On their side also numbers fell in this severe struggle ; and though all the guns immediately opposed to our troops were virtually taken and in our possession, yet, for the want of draught bullocks and infantry to secure what we had so dearly earned, only two out of the number taken could be brought away. Though this severe con- flict was distinguished by all the characteristics of British valour, in the resolute firmness of the cavalry to carry their object, such was the inequality of the force engaged in the combat, and the destructive effects of the fire from the guns still remaining in the hands of the enemy, as to render it prudent to recall the brigade out of their reach ; and, accordingly, just as the brave Colonel Macau was in the act of leading on his men for the fourth time to the charge, orders were received to rejoin the main body." While the perilous contest was thus raging, the British infantry was approaching. It arrived on the banks of the rivulet by noon. After a fatiguing march of twenty-five miles under a burning sun, the infantry required some rest and refreshment, which was ordered. Meanwhile, such was the effect of their presence upon the enemy, that a message was sent to the commander-in-chief with an offer of surrendering all their guns upon certain conditions, to which a favourable answer was returned. An hour was granted for the fulfilment of the conditions, but the British general continued his preparations for an attack should the enemy prove false. " The infantry were formed into two columns on the left, the first composed of the right wing, under the command of Major-General Ware being appointed to attack the village of Mohaulpore, and to turn the right flank of the enemy, which ever since the morning had been thrown back, thereby concentrating their entire force round that place, which was strongly fortified. Their infantry, formed into two lines, were defended in front by a numerous train of artillery, having the cavalry on their right and their left appuyed on Mohaulpore. " The second column of the British infantry, forming the left wing, under Major- General St. John, was directed to support the first column, while the cavalry drew the attention of the enemy to the hostile demonstration in front, which threatened their left. The 3d brigade of cavalry, under Colonel Macan, received instructions to support the infantry ; while Lieutenant-Colonel John Vandeleur, with the 2d brigade, was detached to the right of our line, in order, by watching the motions of the enemy, to take advantage of any confusion that might occur among them, and in case of a retreat to attack them with vigour. The reserve composed of the 1st brigade, under Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon, who had succeeded to the command on the death of Colonel T. P. Vandeleur was formed between the 2d and 3d brigades; while as many field-pieces as could be brought up, together with the galloper guns attached to the cavalry, formed four distinct batteries for the support of the operations of the infantry. " Such was the disposition of our force, and the plan of attack drawn up in the interval allowed for the performance of the conditions of surrender proposed by the enemy ; on whose failure to fulfil what they had promised, the British infantry pro- ceeded, marching along the banks of the rivulet under cover of the high grass, and amidst the broken ground that for some time concealed their advance. As soon, how- ever, as they were discerned, and it was ascertained that their object was to turn the ( H9 ) flank of the enemy, the latter instantly threw back their right wing, under cover of heavy discharges of artillery against the head of our column, which suffered consider- ably. At the same time, our four batteries began to play with no less vigour ; and the whole continued to advance during this tremendous cannonade, in spite of the vast superiority beth in numbers and weight of metal of the enemy's artillery, which was uncommonly well served, showers of grape being poured upon the assailants from large mortars, as well as from guns of heavy calibre. The effect of the fire, which was terrible in the extreme, was felt with peculiar severity by the 76th Regiment, which fine body, by leading the attack, as usual became the direct object of destruc- tion. So great, indeed, was the loss of this corps, that the commander-iu-chief deemed it advisable to hasten the attack with that regiment and those of the native infantry, consisting of the 2d battalion of the 12th and five companies of the 16th, which had closed to the front, and to wait till the remainder of the column should be formed, whose advance had been much delayed by unavoidable impediments." When this resolution was adopted, and the gallant band came within reach of the enemy's canister shot, a most galling fire was poured on them from the whole train of the enemy'i artillery. At this moment the enemy's cavalry attempted to charge, but the infantry effectually checked it, and it recoiled, but with the manifest intention of trying another attack. So General Lake judged it prudent to order an attack to be made upon them in turn from the British cavalry, which service being entrusted to His Majesty's 29th Regiment of Dragoons, was performed to the entire satisfaction of the commander-in-chief. " This regiment, which had previously moved along the banks of the rivulet, in order to support the main attack, had halted for that purpose in a hollow immediately behind our battery, the fire from which occasioned so violent a one in return as to render their situation exceedingly trying ; for, though partly concealed from the view of the enemy, the shot rolled and ploughed up the ground in every direction among our ranks, with the most mischievous effect. While in this position, which was ren- dered more painful by the necessity of waiting in a state of passive endurance, the gallant Major Griffiths was killed, on whose loss the command devolved upon Captain Wade. At length, however, the welcome order arrived for the regiment to charge ; which injunction was no sooner given than it was as promptly obeyed, and the troops galloped out of the narrow passage, where they had been so perilously posted, by files, as the ground would not admit of a larger front. " On forming up on the outer flank of the 76th Regiment, the cavalry was greeted with three cheers, which was heartily re-echoed by the dragoons, on whose sudden appearance the enemy's horse, after having advanced to charge our infantry, made a precipitate retreat. An awful pause of breathless expectation now ensued. The numerous artillery of the enemy seemed to watch an opportune moment to frustrate the meditated attack, by pouring destruction upon their assailants. The affecting interest of the scene was heightened by the narrow escape of the commander-in-chief, whose charger having been shot under him, his gallant son, Major George Lake, while in the act of tendering his own horse to" the general, was wounded by his side. This touching incident had a sympathetic effect upon the minds of all that witnessed it, and diffused an enthusiastic fervour among the troops, who appeared to be inspired by it with a more than ordinary heroic ardour. The cavalry trumpet now sounded to the charge ; and though it was instantly followed by the thundering roar of a hundred pieces of cannon, which drowned every other call but an instinctive sense of duty, the ( 150 ) whole, animated with one spirit, rushed into the thick of battle. The 29th, now the 25th Regiment of Dragoons, pierced with the impetuosity of lightning through both lines of the enemy's infantry, in the face of the most tremendous fire of grape shot and a general volley of musketry. This advantage was followed up instantly by our veteran chief, who, at the head of the 76th Regiment, supported by the 12th, 15th, and a detachment of the 16th Regiment of Native Infantry, seized the guns from which the enemy had just been driven. The 29th Dragoons, after this achievement, made a wheel to the left to charge the enemy's horse, who had assumed a menacing posture ; and after completely routing and pursuing them to the pass through the hills, our cavalry fell upon the rear of the main body, and entirely cut off their retreat. During these rapid operations, the infantry still continuing to press forward, routed the enemy against whom they were opposed, and succeeded in driving them towards a small mosque in the rear of the village, about which they were met and charged by the British cavalry in various directions. The remainder of the first column of our infantry came up just in time to join the attack of the reserve of the enemy, which was formed in the rear of their first line. At this period of the battle Major-General Ware fell dead, his head being carried off by a cannon shot. He was an excellent officer, and his loss was severely felt and deeply lamented by the whole army. After his death, the command of this column devolved upon Colonel Macdonald, who, though wounded, continued in the exercise of the important trust with the utmost judgment, activity, and intrepidity till the close of the action. " The enemy persisted with determined obstinacy in defending their position to the last, contending every point inch by inch, and refusing to give way till they had lost the whole of their guns ; and even then, when their situation was become des- perate, they still continued to manifest the same courageous disposition, their left wing endeavouring to effect their retreat in good order ; but this attempt was frus- trated by the 27th Regiment of Dragoons, and the 6th Regiment of Native Cavalry, commanded by Lieutenant-Colonel John Vaudeleur of the 8th Light Dragoons, who broke into their column, cut many to pieces, and captured the rest, with the whole of the baggage. " The loss sustained by the British army in accomplishing this victory was great, amounting to about eight hundred in killed and wounded ; but that of the enemy far exceeded it, for, with the exception of two thousand who surrendered themselves prisoners, the whole of their seventeen battalions were destroyed, so that the dead alone on the field of battle could hardly have been less than seven thousand men. Though some of their cavalry were enabled, by the fleetness of their horses and local knowledge, to escape destruction, the rest, except those who had the good fortune to conceal themselves among the bazaar people, were numbered with the slain. "Ahajee, the commander of the Mahratta army, abandoned the field on an elephant richly caparisoned, which, on finding himself closely pressed by the British dragoons, he relinquished, and mounting a swift horse, succeeded in getting off, as our men were unable, from the exhausted state of their horses, to continue the pursuit. " The battle, which terminated at four o'clock, gave to the victors the whole of the enemy's bazaars, with the camp equipage and baggage, a considerable number of elephants, camels, and above sixteen hundred bullocks, seventy-two pieces of cannon, five thousand stand of arms, forty-four stands of colours, sixty four tumbrils laden with ammunition and three with money, besides fifty-seven carts containing stores of ( 151 ) various descriptions. The military apparatus and supplies were of prime quality ; and the ordnance in particular, with the exception of nine guns, was perfectly serviceable. From the commencement of the conflict early in the morning with the British cavalry, to the close of the general action in the evening, the enemy discovered a firmness of resolution and contempt of death which could not fail to command the admiration of their opponents, whose energies in the struggle were strained to the utmost, though nothing could repress their ardour, or withstand the impetus of their united exertions. The seventeen battalions with whom our army were engaged constituted the flower of Scindiah's establishment, and, by way of pre-eminent distinction, were characterised as the " Deccan Invincibles." Their total overthrow, therefore, completed the humilia- tion of this formidable Mahratta chief by depriving him of that power which his military superiority, with the aid of the French force, enabled him to maintain in Hindoostan. " Throughout this eventful war, indeed, every conflict gave evidence of the im- provement made by the natives in military knowledge, through their connection with the French, whose abilities were exercised to the utmost in exasperating the chiefs against the English, and in forming their subjects into hardy and disciplined soldiers, with the view of thereby overthrowing our dominion in the East." On the present occasion the effect of French instruction was fully exhibited, for the Mahratta army displayed all the characteristics of European arrangement and discipline. Considering, therefore, the enemy's advantages in point of training and position, their superiority in number compared with the British actually engaged, and the fatigue the British troops had endured previous to the battle, the victory was indeed a glorious one. " The cavalry, after marching forty-two miles in less than twenty-four hours, were hotly engaged with the whole force of the enemy from sunrise till near sunset ; and of so pressing a nature was this trying service that the horses were actually without food or water for the space of twenty hours. On coming up with the enemy, they were called into immediate exercise, and continued it, with little cessation, under very painful disadvantages, till the arrival of the infantry, who also had undergone extra- ordinary fatigue and hardship, in forced marches of sixty-five miles in forty-eight hours." During the day the Commander-m-Chief had two horses killed under him, and the shot showered around him continually with the utmost fury. In the morning His Excellency led the cavalry to the onset, and in the afternoon he advanced at the head of the 76th Regiment, with whom he conducted all the attacks that were made on the enemy's line and on their reserve posted in and about the fortified village of Malpur. " But among the trials which exercised the fortitude of Lord Lake on that day, the most distressing was the accident that befel his gallant son, Major Lake, of the 94th Regiment, who attended his father in the capacity of aide-de-camp and military secretary throughout the whole campaign. In that part of the battle, of which an account has already been detailed, while the Commander-in-Chief was leading on his troops against the enemy, his horse fell under him, after being pierced by several shot, upon which his son instantly dismounted, and urged his father to accept the horse which he rode. This was at first refused, but after some entreaty, the General was prevailed upon to comply, when, just as the Major had mounted another horse belonging to one of the troopers, he received a severe wound from a cannon shot in ( 152 ) the presence of his father. Parental affection was suspended for a while by the sense of public duty, and the General proceeded with unrelaxed vigour in the prosecution of the great object that was paramount to all others ; after accomplishing which, and remaining master of the field, he bad the consolation to find that his brave and affectionate son, though severely wounded, was likely to do well, and prove an orna- ment to his country." He recovered, but was killed on the 17th August 1808, at the storming of the heights of Roleia, in Portugal. " The setting sun, after this busy and sanguinary day, presented a spectacle to the beholder calculated to agitate his mind with a variety of emotions ; for while he could not but feel grateful at the result of the conflict, and exult in the laurels which rewarded the victors, his sympathy was awakened in contemplating the extensive plain covered with the bodies of the dead, and hearing on all sides the groans of the wounded and the dying. This terrific picture was heightened by successive explosions of powder magazines and tumbrils of ammunition, which shook the atmosphere and obscured the horizon with tremendous clouds of sulphurous smoke. If anything could add to such a scene of woe, it was the approach of a murky night, indicating a hurri- cane, that came on with furious rapidity, till it spread an indescribable degree of horror over the blood-stained field. "On the arrival of the camp equipage, which was not till late in the evening, the victorious troops pitched their tents near the rivulet between the village of Laswaree and that of Impurah or Singrah. A battalion of infantry took charge of the prisoners who were collected together at the village of Sagepoorah, lying about midway between the British camp and the ill-fated village of Mohaulpoor, which, from its situation in the midst of the fury of the battle, was now reduced to ashes. Shortly afterwards, the Commander-in-Chief liberated all the prisoners, with the exception of the principal officers, amounting to forty-eight, whom he thought it prudent still to retain." In Brigade Orders, Colonel Macan, commanding 3d Cavalry Brigade, requested Mr. Lyss and Mr. Newvan, surgeons of the 29th Dragoons, to accept his best thanks for their humane and successful exertions in bringing off the wounded, though with the greatest personal risk to themselves, and in affording the natives, as well as the Euro- peans, every assistance in their power. The total loss in the battle was as follows : Killed. Wounded. Europeans 95 311 Natives 77 341 Horses Killed, wounded, and missing, 553. His Majesty's 76th Foot lost more than twice as many as any other corps both in killed and wounded 13 officers were killed and 29 wounded, of whom two died of their wounds. In officers the 29th Light Dragoons suffered most. Those of highest rank who fell were Major-General Ware, Colonel Vandeleur of the 8th Light Dragoons, and Major Griffith of the 29th Light Dragoons, and Major Campbell, Deputy-Quarter-Master General. Seventy-one pieces of ordnance were captured, of which seven were heavy brass guns, and two were heavy iron ones. The iron guns were of European manu- facture, the brass were cast in India one Dutch six-pounder excepted. The dimen- sions were in general those of the French. Large quantities of stores of all kinds were also taken. On the 8th of November the army left the blood-stained fields of Laswaree, where the air, from the number of dead carcases of men and beasts, had become highly offen- ( 153 ) give. After several days of easy marches, proceeding very leisurely back the same way we came, we reached Paiashur, and the day following, the sick and wounded, with the captured guns, were sent off to Agra. " The army halted here a fortnight, during which time the fame of the recent victory having spread in every direction, the Rajas, both near and distant, from the Jumna to the Indus, rejoiced in the opportunity which it gave them of throwing off the Mahratta yoke, and eagerly sought the pro- tection of the British. " On the 14th a treaty of defensive alliance was concluded by the Commander-iu- Chief with the Raja of Macherree. His capital or stronghold is Ulwur; and from the local situation and resources of this chief, he had it in his power to impede or repel every incursion of the Mahrattas into the northern parts of Hindoostan." Sherpur, nine miles north-east of Ramgarh, is remarkable for the tomb of Lai Das, whose body is said to have come to Sherpur from the neighbouring Bhartpur village of Nagla, six months after death and burial. The tomb is a very substantial masonry building 100 feet long, with a high dome, and walls 5 feet thick. The interior is vaulted and low. The body of Lai Das lies in a crypt several feet below the surface. Many other members of Lai Das's family were interred at Sherpur. Nogdwan, a large village seven miles north-east of Ramgarh. It was held by Pathans, and was once very prosperous, and the columns lying about the village, and traces of old gardens, tell of better days. To the west of the village is a Dargah or Musalman shrine, said to be as old as the Ajinf* Dargah. There is a small Raj fort here. In A.D. 1857, one hundred Raj bullocks were on their way via Nogawan to Firozpur, for the use of the British troops. Their escort was attacked just beyond Nogawan by the Meos and the Baniyas. The principal inhabitants of the village stoutly went to its assistance, with the fort-com- mandant. The Meos surrounded them, and the commandant, Man Singh by name, was killed, together with many of his men and of the Nogawan people. The stream of the Lindwah passes by Nogawan. Mubdrakpur, the most prosperous Khanzada village in the state. It is eight miles north-east of Ramgarh, has 224 houses, and 2577 inhabitants. The village is said to have been formerly Pathan, but for centuries Khan- zadas have held it. C/iardonda, eleven miles north of Ramgarb, a very small village on the border, but remarkable for a shrine to Devi, called Devi kd thdn, beside an agree- able spring in the border hills, which overhangs the village. This shrine was formerly much respected, and high officials even used to make handsome offerings. But the Meos, who now hold the village, have deprived the priest of the rent-free grant once bestowed by the village, the proprietors of which were formerly Gujars. The latter are now depressed cultivators, and complain bitterly. The pro- prietorship of Charaonda is vested nominally in twenty-two villages of Nai Meos and the Khanzada village of Marakpur, which, when the village was deserted, undertook to repopulate it. The Meos of this neighbourhood gave M. R. Bakhtawar Singh much trouble, and a fort, called Raguuathgarh, was built, and large villages were broken up into small ones. Nikach is in the valley lying between the double range of hills north-west of Ram- garh, from which it is nine miles distant. This valley has much rich land, and the Meos of it, like those round Ragunathgarh, were so ( 154 ) troublesome that Bannf Singh drove the people away from their village under the hill, near which a fort called Bajrangarh was built, and compelled them to live in a number of small hamlets scattered about the village lands. The people are now desirous of returning to the old village site, which is on uncultivated ground, whereas the present habitations occupy some of the best arable land. Bdndoli, five miles north of Ramgarh. It is well known as one of Lai Das's places of residence, and the tombs of several members of his family are here. Within the limits of the adjoining village of Kho, high up on the hill, is a conspicuous masonry building, which marks one of Lai Das's places of retirement. There is a public tank at Bandoll, built forty years ago by one Hup Das. The Alwar Tahsil adjoins Ramgarh on the west. It is the only tahsil in the state which at no point touches foreign territory. It is situated in Mewat and is 496 square miles in extent, and has a population of 152,000. Its parganahs, villages, and castes, are as follows : B&ndoli. TsiL | w i ^ g a i t f 1 Khnzdas. 0> .H 1 Ulwur 9 1 7 5 38 17 77 Bahadapur .... 13 2 15 1 17 2 1 21 Malakhera .... 4 ... 5 3 1 4 10 27 Total . 13 1 12 3 7 72 2 30 140 For revenue statistics see Appendix. The Ulwur Tahsil contains more than any other of the catchment areas of the two most important irrigating nallahs, the Ruparel and the Chuhar Sidh- It has been already explained that but a portion of the waters of the Ruparel and its tributaries may be detained in Ulwur. The most important part of what does remain is held back by the Sileserh bandh already mentioned. From Sileserh comes the water which, conveyed by a canal, beautifies the environs of the city. The stream which flows down the Sileserh valley to join the Ruparel produces some dahri land, and the Ruparel and Chuhar Sidh have a few acres of kdtli in most of the villages along their banks, and here and there some dahri, notably at Banjir Nagla. The extensive hills of the Ulwur Tahsil are to a large extent grass, game, and wood reserves, as detailed elsewhere (p. 103), Sixty feet is an extreme depth at which to find water (except in the hills), and 20 to 35 feet is an ordinary depth. The date of the old papers in which the areas and jammas of many villages of. Ulwur are recorded does not appear, but they are said to be as old as Akbar. Those of the pargana of Mala Khera seem to have been prepared when it was held by M. R Siwai Jai Singh of Jaipur ; the date is s. 1782 (A.D. 1725). The Kanungoes have sanads from Jai Singh, dated s. 1777, and from Madho Singh, s. 1819. Some of the principal villages are entered as follows : ( 155 ) Area recorded in Muazinas. Jam ma recorded in Muazinas. Area according to present Survey. Jam ma assessed. Dhakptfrf .... 1512 2299 1676 2000 Chomii .... 2757 1591 2777 1600 Kutfna KuU'ui . . 3728 2842 1965 1450 Mirzapur .... 611 1380 907 550 Lili 2884 1206 3120 2500 Berla (now in Lachmangarh) . 2278 2508 Desula (Ulwur) . 2033 3313 2060 2600 Jatiano .... 2904 2514 2187 2360 Gigoli .... 1879 1750 1737 1350 Khamala 1212 1610 1106 1540 Pirthipura . 5475 5993 8789 4100 Kalsada .... ... ... The city of Ulwur has an admirably central situation in the territory of which it is the chief town. TJlwur Two modes of deriving its name are current. Some say that it was anciently called Alpur, or " strong city," some that by an allowable interchange of letters it is a form of the word " Arbal," the name of the main chain with which the Ulwur hills are connected. The city lies under the hill range, which just above it is crowned by the fort. It has already been narrated (p. 5 note) that local legends declare the Nikumpa Rajputs to have been the first occupants of Ulwur. They are said to have built the fort and the old town, remains of which last are to be seen within the hills under the fort. The cause of the fall of a ruling family is generally declared by local legends to have been some special act of gross oppression committed by the family. In the case of the Nikumpas, their ruin is attributed to their practice of human sacrifice. Daily they offered to Durga Devf some wretched man or woman belonging to the lower castes. A Bom widow's son was thus put to death, and the Domni, in revenge, told the Kbanzada chief of Kotila that he might easily seize the Ulwur Fort by attacking it when the Nikumpas were engaged in the worship of Devi, at which time they laid aside their arms. An attack was accordingly organised. A party of Khanzadas lay in wait under the fort ; the Domni, at the proper moment, gave the signal by throwing down a basket of ashes, and a successful assault was made. The spot where the ashes were thrown down is pointed out and called " Domni Danta." The first historical mention of Ulwur, which I have been able to find, is in Ferishta, who speaks of a Rajput of Ulwur contending with the Ajmlr Rajputs in H. 590 (A.D. 1195). The position of Ulwur as chief town in Mewat, the visit of Babar to it, and its subsequent history, has already been spoken of. The city of Ulwur is protected by a rampart and moat on all sides but where the rocky hill range crowned by the fort secures it from attack. There are five gates ; the main streets were well paved when Captain Impey was Political Agent. The population of the city and suburbs was 52,357, according to the census of April 10, 1872. The most numerous classes are Brahmins, Baniyas, and Chumars. In 1875-76, a plan of the city and suburbs on a large scale was made by a cum- ( 156 ) potent surveyor ; every holding was numbered, and full statistics recorded and tabu- lated regarding ownership, the character of buildings and tenements, &c. The buildings of most note in the city are (1.) The Raja's palace, built chiefly by M. R. Banni Singh. It contains some fine courts, and a beautiful Darbar room ; the view from the roof of the latter, com- prising the fort, rocky hill-side, with temples under it, and the tanks and cenotaph of Bakhtawar Singh in the foreground, is considered almost unique, and very well worth a visit (2.) The cenotaph of M. R. Bakhtawar Singh, under the fort, has attracted much notice. It is a very fine specimen of the foliated or segmental arch style. Fergusson says of this cenotaph : " It makes up with its domes and pavilions as pleasing a group of its class as is to be found in India, of its age at least." The Temple of Jagdnath, in the chief market-place, is the most conspicuous of its class. The domed building inappropriately called the Tirpolia covers the crossing of the main streets. It is an old tomb, said to be that of one Tarang Sultan, brother of the Emperor Firoz Khan. It forms a sort of small covered bazaar. There are several old mosques bearing inscriptions. The most considerable is near the palace gate ; it is now used as a store-house. Its date, expressed in a sen- tence, is H. 969. The Mussulman shrine of most account inside the city is that of one Bhikan, said to have been killed in battle in the time of Kutbuldin Aibak. A street and mosque are named after him. A fine Court-Eouse, erected when Captain Impey was Political Agent at Ulwnr, stands in a handsome square at the entrance to the palace. Opposite it a suitable Revenue Office is under construction. The environs of the city have been mapped by the Topographical Survey Depart- ment, and its roads, gardens, and main buildings are well delineated. The gardens, especially the Banni Bilds, and ground watered by the canal from the Sileserh Lake, have been already spoken of, as also has the lake itself pp. 29, 91, 103. The largest buildings near and outside the city are (1.) The Fort, which stands just 1000 feet above the Tirpolia. It contains a palace and buildings erected chiefly by the first two Nanika chiefs of Ulwur. Its ramparts extend along the hill top, and across the valley for about two miles. It is said to have been built by Nikumpa Rajputs, and has undoubtedly been in the hands successively of Khanzadas, Mughals, Pathans, Jats, and Narukas. Probably its weakest point is that which lies over the old town of Ulwur. Below the fort are two outworks, both to protect the approach to the fort and to strengthen the city wall. One is known as the Chitanki; the other which is a work, no doubt, of a northern Governor Kdbul Khurd. (2.) The Banni Bilas palace, an elegant structure situated in the garden already mentioned. It was the work of M. R. Banni Singh. Near the public railway station, a private one for the use of the Maharaja and his household is being erected. It will be a very handsome building. Near the station on the Bhartpur road is a fine Musalraan tomb of A.D. 1547, known as Fatah Jhang's. Its dome is a conspicuous and ornamental object. Fatah Jhang was probably a Khanzada of note. At least his Hindoo extraction would appear to be indicated by the fact of the inscription, which is the only memorial ( 157 ) inscription I have met with on an Ulwur monument, being in Ngari character. It gives the Hindi date as well as the year of the Hijira. It runs thus " Sambat 1604, san 955, Fatah Jang Khan, wafat pal tarlkh, 27 Mah Rabi ul awal Gumbaz niii dini tarikh 3 " The Residency, about a mile and a half from the city, a fine tank for the use of the city, and an excellent jail on the Tijara road, are the principal works in the suburbs constructed or begun during the minority of the late Chief, Sheodan Singh. The public gardens were laid out by M. R. Sheodan Singh, and since the establish- ment of the Council of Administration in A.D 1870, the High School, Dispensary, and Stables have been built, and Kotwdli and Tahsti are in process of erection. There are good metalled roads connecting the principal gardens, the Residency, and Sileserh Lake with the city. Several dams pr embankments have been built or thrown up to intercept the streams of the rains. One, known as Partap Singh's bandh, was expected to create a fine lake under the fort, but the water sinks, flows under ground, and reappears in the plains five or six miles east of Ulwur. Baliddurpur, eleven miles north-east of Ulwur, contains 930 houses. It formerly was the headquarters of a pargana. Saiyads are the principal in- habitants, but many of them are absent on service. The town is said to have been founded or revived by either the famous Bahadar Nahir Khanzada or his son. It was once an extensive and flourishing town with large bazaars, numerous fine houses with temples and tombs. One of the Jain temples has an inscription in Hindi, and a well, one in Arabic, but I have been unable to get either deciphered. A fort on a rock stands near the town. It is occupied by Raj Sepoys. Mdla Kliera, twelve miles south of Ulwur on the railroad, has 632 houses. It has a rampart round it, and a garrisoned fort. It gives its name to a Mdla Kliera. pargana. dleta, sixteen miles south of Ulwur, close to the hills. It has 416 houses, and 2098 inhabitants. There are iron furnaces at this village. Here, too, M. R. Banni Singh built a large dam, but it forms no lake, and no very considerable extent of valuable land is produced by it. Akbarpur, nine miles south-west of Ulwur. It has 451 houses, and 1606 inhabitants. It gave its name to a pargana. Dehra, seven miles north-west of Ulwur, the chief village of a pargana, but now insignificant. The pargana is the valley just north-west of Ulwur, through which the Chuhar Sidh flows, and in the hills of which the great Meo Fair already mentioned takes place. Charan Dass was born at Dehra. A residence of Lai Das is at Dhaoli Dub at the entrance to the valley, and the Chuhar Sidh shrine is in the hills overhanging it (p. 53). Bdnsur, the last of the middle Tahsils, adjoins the Ulwur Tahsil. Kot Putli, belonging to the Raja of Khetri and Jaipur territory bound it on the west. Part of it is in the Rdht, part in the Wai (vale?), a tract lying south of the Raht, and occupied chiefly by Shekhawat Thakurs (p. 123). It is 330 square miles in extent, and has a population of 67,000. ( 158 ) ll M 1 1 o ,4 i P 1 i i Bansiir .... Narainpur . . Rampur . . . Hajipur . . . Garhi Mamor . . Barod .... Harsora . ' . Hamirpur . 24 20 3 14 2 2 1 2 1 2 i 14 1 6 i ... 7 2 4 1 1 54 24 12 5 18 4 12 7 3 1 1 ... ..! I 2 5 4 1 1 ... ... 3 1 Total . 66 I 6 3 29 11 i i 19 136 These parganahs are old estates which were held by Shekhawat or Chauhan Thakurs. All the Thakurs are now ill off. For revenue statistics, see Appendix. The only flooded lands are those established below the Babaria bandh (an impor- tant work on which a large sum has been recently expended), and the deep hollows to the south of and near to the town Bansiir. Captain Abbott, who inspected and assessed the Tahsil, remarks regarding it : " The surface of the country is for the most part undulating raised bars of sand, alternating with loamy hollows. In these parts we have soils varying from a good loam to a very poor sandy soil. The Narainpur pargana, the greater part of the Garhi pargana, and the eastern portions of the Rampur, Hajipur, and Hamirpur parganahs have a hard and rich soil, generally capable of yielding two harvests. " The Sabf river forms the greater part of the boundary with the Jaipur state. It flows with considerable force for a few days in the year, and then dries up. It is chiefly regarded as a nuisance, owing to the uncertainty of the direction of its flow, and the persistent way in which it cuts into the village lands bordering on it, or deposits a layer of sand ; it, however, affords some compensation by leaving a good portion of its bed fit to bear rabi crops by the aid of peculiar manure. These areas are called ' KdtlV 11 The next stream in size is the one which, rising south, flows past Narainpur, and further on joins the Sabi. Kdtli crops are grown in the bed of this stream, too, but in many parts ' Kullur ' interferes with good produce. Another stream, rising in the Rampur hills, and flowing north past Harsorn, affords considerable area for Kdtli cultivation. The only other streams of any importance are the collection of little ones which flow into the Babaria basin, where their waters are retained by the bandh there constructed." Much trouble has been caused by Rajputs of the Jaipur village of Rajnota, who, after cultivating land in the adjoining Ulwur villages, have refused to pay a fair rent, trusting to their power of giving trouble on the border to facilitate the evasion. Cap- tain Abbott, as Settlement officer, has fixed the rent of these lands so that in future there can be no question of the amount which should be paid. The depth of wells in Bansur, from the surface of the ground to the water level, is never more than 70 feet, and usually from 20 to 30. The mudzinas, or old pargana papers, bear dates, F. 1152 (i.e., A.D.1739), and H. ( 159 ) 972 (i.e., A.D. 1564). The following figures afford comparison between that period and the present : Total area, according to muazina of H. 1152, of six villages, comprising pargana of Hajipur (namely, Hajipur, Bhubserah, Hamirpur, Chind, Kishorpura, Bamanwas, Bhuriawas), 12,708 bighas. Total Jamma of do., Rs. 6485. Present area of do. according to Settlement survey, 8464 settlement bighas. Present Jamma of do., Us. 10,841. Total area of twelve villages, according to muazina of H. 972, comprising pargana of Rampur (namely, Mothiika, Fatahpur, Kaliannagar, Mandh, Mudli, Ghat, Balawas Basna, Mukandpur, Lohech, Toda), 24,000 bighas. Total Jamma of do., Rs. 19,403. Present area of do., according to Settlement survey, 26,365 bighas. Present Jamma of do., Rs. 11,890. Bdnsur is situated twenty miles north-west of Ulwur city, but more than thirty by any practicable road. It has 620 houses and 2930 inhabitants. There is a garrisoned fort on a rocky hill over against the town. A model tahsil office has been built here, the first of those which are everywhere to take the place of the old make-shift buildings. The neighbourhood of the town is remarkable for its fine bargat trees. The pagana of which Bansur is the chief village, was known as the " Bealisi," (or the forty-two villages), and was a Shekhawat Thakur's estate. There were three such estates. Narainpur is twelve miles south of Bdnsur. It has 1087 houses and 4460 inhabi- tants. Enough regarding its Shekbawat inhabitants has already been said (p. 123). The pargana, with that of Garhi Mamtir, is composed of the second of the three Shekhawat estates. The town is a very ancient place. See General Cunningham's "Ancient Geography of India." The parganahs of Narainpur and Garhi Mamiir forms the Wai or the main portion of it. Garhi Mdmur is eight miles south-east of Bansiir. It has 251 houses and 1076 inhabitants. There is a little fort here which the Shekhawats took poses- sion of during the disturbances of 1870. The old estate which forms M ( 160 ) Tdlbirich is a very pretty spot at the head of the Riipparel valley, five miles east of Narainpur. It is famous for hot springs, which flow into bathing lch * tanks, and to which medicinal and other virtues are attributed. The water passes into a wood of tdl (pentaptera) trees, which are found scarcely anywhere else iu the state. Cenotaphs of Shekhawat Thakurs are situated, and afford shelter, near the tank. SOUTHERN DIVISIONS. Katumbar is the most eastern of the four southern tahsils. It is partly in Katumbar Narukhand, partly in . It has Bhartpnr territory on Tahsii. three sides of it, and some Bhartpnr villages are isolated within its limits. Its area is 122 square miles, and its population about 39,000. The tahsil has 74 villages, of which 67 are fiscal and 14 revenue-free. Its parganahs and fiscal villages are as follows: %t 3S 1 -8 1-5 | o 1 A o TJ O | o H Katumbar 2 in 5 1 10 34 Part of old Lachmangarh Sonkar 9 8 2 i 1 1 5 G 18 15 Total 12 17 G 1 1 21 67 For revenue statistics, see Appendix. The crop rates of revenue prevalent are as follows Katumbar. Wheat (well) . . .50 (denkli) ..28 Barley (well) . . 40 (denkli) . 2 Cotton .... 2 8 Jawar (unirrigated) . 1 2 (dahrlland) ..20 Indian Corn ... 18 Gram .... 2 Bajra .... 1 2 Moth and Inferior Pulses 1 Sonkar. 4 3 3 1 8 2 1 2 1 About two-thirds of the soil is of inferior quality. The rest is good. The chief crops grown are in order of extent, bajra, moth, jawar, cotton, barley. The nallah from Lachmangarh flows into the Tahsil, but the water reaches the remoter villages irregularly. The Bhawar nallah in the south of the tahsil waters ( 161 ) three villages, and the Ghossana nallah waters six villages. At one of these, Gala Kkera by name, there is a bandh. The water level in some wells of Katumbar is between 70 and 80 feet below the surface, but 30 feet is about the average. The old pargana papers bear date s. 1786 (A.D. 1729), the time of Siwai Jai Singh of Jaipur. The following are specimens of the old areas and Jammas : Area, according to old papers of pargana Sonkhar, comprising nine villages, viz., Sonkhar, Sonkhrl, Doroli, Salwari, Kherli, Natoj, Kala Khera, Ghilauta, Daroda, 39,242 bighas. Old Jamma of do., Rs. 20,275. Area according to survey, 27,259 bighas. Jamma now assessed, Us. 30,455. The Marhattas took the place of Jaipur as possessors of Katumbar, and held the pargana, or the greater part of it, till s. 1860 (A.D. 1803). In that year the Mar- hatta officials murdered some respectable persons of the neighbourhood, one of whom was a Brahmin, and the Kanungoes and others complained to M. R. Bakhtawar Singh of Ulwur, who ousted the Marhattas. But a fresh force turned out the Ulwur troops, and it was this army which Lord Lake marched against and destroyed at Laswarree. The town of Katumbar is thirty-eight miles south-east of Ulwur. It has 828 houses and 3145 inhabitants. It is an ancient place, but now contains no wealth ; and except as the headquarters of the tahsil, is of little importance. Sonkar, six miles south-west of Katumbar. It has 374 houses and 1618 inhabi- tants. It is the chief village of the pargana known in the time of the emperors as Sonkar Sonkri Sonkar was, seven hundred years ago, founded by Chauhans from Sonkri, who had originally, it is said, come from Nimrana. According to tradition, they had taken possession of Tasai, in Katumbar, when the murder of a Brahmin by the Minds of Sodoli caused them to attack Sodoli as avengers. Sodoli was destroyed, and on the site Sonkri was built. For a long time previous to s. 1834 Jaipur is said to have held the pargana. From s. 1834 to s. 1840 the Mughals held all or a portion of it, and their houses are pointed out in Sonkri. In s. 1840 the Marhattas devastated the pargana, and occupied it subsequently till S. 1859. In s. 1860 the Bhartpur Jats held the par- gana till after the Rabi harvest. Since then it has been a part of Ulwur. Samiichi, eleven miles south of Katumbar. It contains 420 houses and 2039 inhabitants. There is a garrisoned fort here, and the village contains , , , , f , , Samfichf. much good da/in land. Lachmangarh is the southern tnhsil next to Katurabar. It is in Nai ukhand, and touches Bhartpur territory, but its southern border chiefly Lachmangarh lies along Jaipur. Tahsil. Some isolated Jaipur villages are within its border, and villages of Lach- inangurh lie detached in Jaipur. The area of the tahsil is 221 square miles, and its population 70,000. The tahsil consists of but one pargana. Its villages and the castes of the proprietors are as follows: ( 162 ) ll Brahmin. S i-s 3 .S 5" O 1' KharwaL 1 m 9 1 15 3 14 8 7 4 1 20 I 35 108 For revenue statistics, see Appendix. The soil of the Lachmangarh Tahsil is for the most part light where unaffected by floods. The chief crops grown are, in order of extent, bajra, moth, jawar, barley, cotton, gram. The principal irrigating nnllah flows from the bandh at Lachmangarh, and from Ghat, on the Rupparel, a canal brings water to certain villages after the rains. The deptli of wells to the water level is usually from 15 to 35 feet, but a depth of 70 feet is to be met with in the tahsil. The old name of Lachmangarh was Taur. Partap Singh got possession of the place from Sariip Singh, and enlarged the fort and renamed it Lachmangarh. The fort subsequently endured a seige laid by Najaf Khan (p. 17). The town of Lachmangarh is twenty-three miles south-east of Ulwur. It has 996 houses, and according to the census, 3779 inhabitants. The fort contains good accommodation for the Chief when he visits the town. A long bandh detains the waters of a nallah from the south-west. There are fine trees on and below this bandh near the town, and early in February, when the yellow blossom of the sarson covers the expanse behind it, it is a most tempting place to linger on. The bandh requires much attention, for being almost entirely earthen, it is very liable to get out of repair. Maujpur, three miles west of Lachmangarh. It has 669 houses, and, according to census, 3519 inhabitants. It has a bazaar, and much of its area is dahrl land. A good road has been constructed between Lachmangarh and the railway station at Mdla Khera, and Maujpur stands on it. The village is also on the line of communication between Lachmangarh and Rajgarh. Rdjgarli is the next of the southern tahsis. It, too, is partly in Naru- khand, but its western portion was the Bargujar and Rajawat country. Jaipur lies along its southern border. Its area is 373 square miles, and population about 98,000. It has 108 fiscal and 99 revenue-free villages. The fiscal villages with the parganas are as follows : Maujpur. 4 si a ^ 4 si ri c M r3 t i. Settlement. on 1st September Io7o, and is to run for sixteen years. The total cost of the settlement has been Rs. 310,000. Of this, Rs. 115,000 has been on account of survey. The time taken has been four years and four months. This includes the operations connected with the summary settlement of 1872. Captain Abbott was officiating Settlement Officer for twenty months, whilst Major Powlett was acting for Major Cadell as Political Agent of Ulwur. Crops, crop-rates, tenures, proprietory rights, principles on which disputes were determined, have been treated of under " Agriculture," &c. The judicial cases decided by the Settlement Department, exclusive Judicial cases. , ^ ,.,. , . , ,, of appeals to Political Agent, were as follows : Boundary ........ Proprietory right or biswaddri .... Miscellaneous ....... Appeal . , . ..... Total 13,800 ( 187 ) RENT RATES PER SETTLEMENT B/GHA, ADOPTED IN REGULAR SETTLEMENT OF ULWTTR, 1876. 1 TAHSlLS. IRRIGATED VARIES. UNIRRIGATED VARIES. REMARKS. ,' Tijdra pargana Rs. An. Rs. An. Rs. An. Rs. An. In 1st class villages . from 2 12 to 4 8 from 14 to 1 12 ,, 2d ,, 2 4 4 12 1 8 3d 2 3 8 8 1 4 < Tapokra pargana 45 In main circle . . 2 4 3 2 1 1 6 ) gf north . . . 2 4 3 4 :, 1 1 8 \. The lowest irrigated east . . . 30,, ... 14 1 4 C is flooded land. \ south . . . ,, 34,, 1 1 6 ) Mandawar 1st class .... ,, 2 5 4 1 8 3 } 2d . . . . 2 5 ,, 1 4 2 12 \ Ditto. 3d .... ,, 4 4 4 12 . 14 2 8 ) Kishengarh 1st flooded circle . 2 8 5 8 1 4 3 8 ] 2d . 2 8 5 1 2 2 12 > Ditto. 1st sandy 4 4 4 8 1 2 12 2d . 3 12 4 14 2 8 ) Kathumbar Western sandy circle 44,, ... 1 2 2 ) Eastern loam ,, 40,, ... 1 6 2 > Ditto. Northern flooded 3 4 4 1 2 Southern 3 4 1 2 2 2 ) Oovindgarh 1st class villages . 44,, ... 1 6 3 2d ,,38,, ... 1 2 8 Lachmangarh 1st class .... 3 5 1 2 4 ) 2d . . . . 2 12 4 8 14 2 V Ditto. 3d .... 2 8 4 14 2 ) Ulwur 1st class . . .' 6 6 1 2 8 2d . . . . 4 5 1 2 4 3d .... 3 8 4 14 2 Ramgarh 1st class .... 4 6 1 3 ) 2d . . . . 2 12 6 1 2 8 V Ditto. 3d .... 2 8 5 1 1 12 ) Rajgarh Pargana Reni Mdcheri . . 1 12 4 10 1 2 1 Rdjpiir, one crop land 2 4 14 1 11 ... Double ,, 7 12 ... ,, ... ,, . Ditto. , Rdfaarh . 28 59 1 8 Tahla, one cropped land ,, u \j ,, / / 2 8 5 1 ,, * u ,, ... ,,17,, ... Double ,, 96,, ... Bahror Loam I. circle . 5 4 6 1 6 3 4 A rate intermediate be- tween irrigated and unir- rigated was charged on ir- II Sandy I. . . II. 5 4 5 12 4 4 4 12 4 4 8 1 2 2 12 1 2 2 10 12 2 4 rigahle. A rate from 2 ans. to4ans. lower than Ji/mr 1 1 . was charged on sandy hillocks called pfith. Bansur Class I. ... 1 8 5 8 12 2 2 Dofasli, or double crop- ped land, is charged at 9 >. rs. in seven villages. The II. ... 1 4 4 8 12 2 lowest irrigated is flood- in. . . . ThAna GhAzf 1 3 8 10 1 ed land. Kdtli is charged ' Rs. 1-12 and Rs. 2-4. waH!A PIMM CO KATLI, NAH land irrigated ous ways, see Irrigation." DAPR ALABI var " O o o O H ^5 W S w H " 'Pint U9 a I 8. 58 ^ I I. 1 -3 5 I putii ip^ pn H OQ M H The collections of passed settlements often exceed the total amount previously as- S h 3 to _ o holdings falling in, and from other causes. |1|| OS TH M CO CO IC$ CS CS ^J< 00 cs co OO CO IO OS i-H CO CO O 5 5 OS If/ of ||| CS b- ^ co m CM oo CO i 1 !>. OO CS -^ -* I-H Cl r-H CO CO W5 !>. s ! t^* C^l t^" CO o co |P-3 2 -g . o a d O OS CO * CO OS CO OO OS co co" os oo" i i CO v jc d Q> ^ Q W I 1 |{?-s S 1 . ff-1 OO CO O CO o I?! i-H 00 O ^f t- 00 (M * CS I-H Name of Tahsil i- 5 II Bahror Govindgarh Kathumbar ... Kishengarh ... Lachmangarh | | M S 3 & S g g | a . S & $ s* I K I-H C-l CO "*" O CO *" 00 OS O ~H (M i-H r-H i-H EH to H X H B <| EJ QQ hi <| PH H to s o DETAIL OF ALL THE VILLAGES IN THE STATE : Khdlisa, or fiscal, i.e., revenue- pay ing . 1431J Muafi, or revenue-free .... 357 Jstamrdr, or permanently settled . . 6 Nahri, or under Canal Department, i.e., not settled 3 1797^ ALL THE STATISTICS BELOW REFER TO FISCAL VILLAGES ONLY. Total Well Rans. Rent-free ill tir-.-.-il Tillages. RIPM wm-noN ;o M IQJt iinogBK ;o IO 2 eo 1 s[|3AV ta-uo>i jo C-l i--. IP Il^AV ' XjaosBiv JO -< r^. o sosodand 8ni5[nijp joj sn8j& eo oo 10 saoTBAHino a ^-. -* oT Well Runs. ?nBra9tag 9i-u9i jayy >< *-. to tfMJtjqa ,_. 'JOT3 rn MBSnqfl oi inaraamgg JSi-U9X ^V * CO of 1 1 A"raug ,-t tHTOUg ,-H Masonry Wells. jnerasiJiag reai-nsj, UV 0) oo r-t^ i 1 jBq8nn eo UIBA"H TK pA"usg o in8ni9ni9g JB9i-n9j, IV O CO r cT r- 1 'J19N * 9dfrH umuiusnjt CO i t Land Cultivated (Settlement Bighas). ?n9ta9n?9g JB9J5.-H3J, J31JV O. S' 00 . ^30 oo I-l >dfPH PPOJH t^ t^ I ( 5 R ?natnaiM9g J89i-n3x s,A"9dnii ni?dBO J9ijv 00 CO co^ eT o 'J1Y Hn | ^nauwiMsg jB9i-U9j, s/adraj utBiduo t)v 5 IO of eo OK . < CO ->< jo : - 'C ~- -'.' ~. O> . w - S C* ."*!. oio" ej -< * E3S n e CO I-H 1-1 eo JO .'7.1. )I! ..> . -2 " ^>^ i -4 "6 -e s i i ' K * "1 T p g o 1* 8 cc E- ( 192 ) V. AGREEMENTS BETWEEN THE BRITISH AND ULWUR GOVERNMENTS. AGREEMENT between the BRITISH GOVERNMKNT and His HIGHNESS SEWAI MANGAL SINGH BAHADUR MAHARAO RAJA OF ULWUR, his heirs and successors, executed on the one part by Major Thomas Cadell, V.C., Political Agent at the Court of Ulwur, under authority from Alfred C. Lyall, Esq., Officiating Agent to the Governor- General for the States of Rajpootana, in virtue of the full powers vested in him by His Excellency the Right Honourable Edward Robert Lytton Bulwer Lytton, Baron Lytton of Kneb worth, G.M.S.I., Viceroy and Governor -General of India, and on the other part by Pandit Rupnarain Rai Bahadur, Member of the Regency Council, Ulwur, in virtue of the full powers conferred upon him by the Government of Ulwur. Whereas the British Government is desirous of abolishing artificial restrictions on and impediments to internal trade, and in pursuance thereof proposes to abolish the inland customs line and the duty thereat levied on sugar and other saccharine produce exported from British territory into Ulwur and other Native States ; and Whereas the Government of Ulwur is willing to co-operate with the British Government in giving effect to this measure, both by making such arrangements in its own territories as may render the abolition of the inland customs line in the neighbourhood of the Ulwur State possible without risk to the Imperial salt revenue, and by abolishing all duties on salt, sugar, and all other articles, entering, leaving, or passing through its territories ; and Whereas the salt now manufactured within the Ulwur territories is limited in quantity and inferior in quality ; The following articles are agreed upon : ARTICLE FIRST. From and after a date to be fixed by the British Government, the Government of Ulwur shall suppress and absolutely prohibit and prevent the manufacture of salt within the Ulwur State, whether overtly or under the guise of manufacturing saltpetre or other saline product, and shall destroy existing saltpans, so that salt cannot be made therein. ARTICLE SECOND. From and after a date to be fixed by the British Government, no export, import, or transit duty of any kind shall be levied by, or with the permission or knowledge of, the Ulwur Government within the Ulwur territories. Provided that nothing in this article shall be held to prohibit the levy of octroi, choongi, or other cess or duty on any articles imported into towns within the Ulwur territory, and intended for actual consumption therein, subject only to the condition that such octroi, choongi, or other cess or duty, shall not be levied in any town where it is not levied at the time of the conclusion of this agreement, unless such town con- tains a population of not less than five thousand (5000) inhabitants ; and Provided further, that nothing in this article shall be held to debar the Ulwur Government from levying any such duty on bhang, ganja, spirits, opium, or other intoxicating drug or preparation, as it may consider necessary for excise purposes. ( 193 ) ARTICLE THIRD. The Government of Ulwur shall prohibit and prevent the importation into and consumption within the Ulwur territories of any salt not being salt produced at works controlled by the British Government, and which has paid the duty levied by the British Government on salt so produced. The Ulwur Government shall also, if so required by the British Government, pre- vent the export from its territories into British territory of any of the intoxicating drugs or preparations referred to at the close of the preceding article. ARTICLE FOURTH. If any considerable stock of salt be proved to exist within the Ulwur territories at the time when the arrangements herein agreed upon shall be brought into operation, the Government of Ulwur shall, if so required by the British Government, take posses- sion of such stocks of salt, and shall give the owners thereof the option either of transferring the salt to the British Government at such equitable valuation as may be fixed by the Government of Ulwur in concurrence with the Political Agent in Ulwur, or of paying to the said Agent a duty not exceeding Rupees 3 per maund. In the event of the owners as aforesaid accepting the latter alternative, they shall be allowed to retain the salt on which duty as provided may be paid. ARTICLE FIFTH. The British Government shall at its own expense maintain one or more officers with a small establishment, which officer or officers shall be under the orders of the Government of Ulwur, and shall, when so ordered, visit any part of the Ulwur terri- tories, and report to the Government of Ulwur, or to such officials as may be appointed by the Government of Ulwur to receive such reports, any infractions or alleged or suspected infractions of the orders which the Government of Ulwur may issue for the purpose of giving effect to Articles I. and II. of this agreement, and the officer or officers aforesaid may be invested by the Government of Ulwur with authority to investigate all such infractions and to prosecute the offenders before such of the Ulwur tribunals as the Government of Ulwur may appoint for the trial of such offenders. ARTICLE SIXTH. In consideration of the due and effectual observance by the Government of Ulwur of all the stipulations hereinbefore provided, the British Government agrees to pay to the Government of Ulwur yearly the sum of one hundred and twenty-five thousand rupees in half-yearly instalments, the first instalment to be paid after the expiration of six months from the date fixed as provided in Articles I. and II. Provided that it be proved to the satisfaction of the Government of Ulwur that private rights have in any case been infringed by the suppression of local manufac- ture above provided for, the said Government shall equitably compensate any persons whose rights have been infringed for any losses thereby sustained. Further, the British Government engages to deliver yearly at Sambhur, free of cost and duty, one thousand niauuds of salt of good quality for the use of the Govern- ment of Ulwur to any one empowered by the said Government of Ulwur in that behalf. ARTICLE SEVENTH. None of the stipulations herein agreed upon shall be in any way set aside or modi- fied without the previous consent of both parties. 2B ( 194 ) No. 1148P. From the OFFG. SECRETARY to the GOVERNMENT of INDIA to A. 0. HUME, Esq., C.B., on Special Duty. (Foreign Department, Political.) SIMLA, 22d May 1877. SIR, In reply to your letter No. 36, dated 9th April 1877, I am directed to say that the Governor-General in Council approves the revised draft Agreement submitted therewith, which it is proposed to execute between the British Government and the Ulwur State. I have the honour to be, Sir, your most obedient servant, (Signed) T. H. THORNTON, 0/g. Secy, to the Govt. of India. AGREEMENT under the Native Coinage Act, 1876, with His HIGHNESS THE MAHARAO EAJA OF ULWUR. ARTICLES OF AGREEMENT made between the GOVERNMENT OF INDIA on the one part, and His HIGHNESS THE MAHARAO RAJA OF ULWUR of the other part. Whereas under the Native Coinage Act, 1876, the Governor- General in Council has power from time to time to declare by notification in the Gazette of India that a tender of payment of money, if made in the coins, or the coins of any specified metal, made under the said Act for any Native State, shall be a legal tender in British India. And whereas by section four of the said Act it is declared that such power shall be exercisable only under certain conditions, amongst which is the condition that the Native State for which such coins are coined shall enter into agreements corresponding with the first three articles of these presents. And whereas by section five of the said Act any such State is authorised to send to any mint in British India metal to be made into coin under the same Act, and (subject as therein mentioned) the Mint Master is required to receive such metal and convert it into coin. And whereas His Highness the said Maharao Raja of Ulwur is a Native State within the meaning of the said Act, and has, pursuant to such authority, sent to the Mint of Calcutta silver to be coined under the said Act into two lakhs of rupees, and has requested the Government of India to exercise the power hereinbefore recited in the case of the said coins, and the Government of India has consented to exercise such power by issuing the requisite notification in the Gazette of India on the execution by His Highness the said Maharao Raja of Ulwur of this Agreement. Now these presents witness, and it is hereby agreed between the parties hereto as follows (that is to say) : First, His Highness the Maharao Raja of Ulwur agrees for himself and his suc- cessors to abstain during a term of thirty years from the date of the notification aforesaid from coining silver in his own Mint, and also undertakes that no coins resembling silver coins, for the time being a legal tender in British India, shall after the expiration of the said term be struck under the authority of himself or his successors, or with his or their permission at any place within or without his or their jurisdiction. ( 195 ) Secondly, His Highness the said Maharao Raja of Ulwur hereby agrees for him- self and his successors that the law and rules for the time being in force, respecting the cutting and breaking of coin of the Government of India reduced in weight by reasonable wearing or otherwise, or counterfeit, or called in by proclamation, shall apply to the coins made for the said State under the said Act, and that the said State will defray the cost of cutting and breaking them. Thirdly, His Highness the said Maharao Raja of Ulwur further agrees for him- self and his successors not to issue the said coins below their nominal value, and not to allow any discount or other advantage to any person in order to bring them into circulation. Fourthly, His Highness the said Maharao Raja of Ulwur agrees for himself and his successors that if at any time the Government of India calls in its coinage of rupees, His Highness or his successors will, if so requested by the Government of India, call in, at his or their own expense, all coins made for him under this Agreement. In witness whereof His Highness the said Maharao Raja of Ulwur and A. B. on behalf of the Government of India have hereunto set their hands and seals the day and year first above written. INDEX. A. Abubakr AdilShah Administration Advances Afghans Agreements 192 Agriculture 87 Ahirs ... 45 Ahmad Khan 4,5 PAGE 3 7 114 185 3 Ahmad Baksh Khan Ajabgurh Ajmir ... Akbar Akbarpur Akhe Singh 19 168 7 7, 10 159 20, 21, 23 Alaora 147 Alam Khan 6 Altamsh ... ... ... ... 2 Ammujan 22 Appeals 184 Appendix ... ... ... ... 171 Aravali Series 181 Aristocracy ... 119 Armoury 118 Army 107, 108 Artillery 107 Assessments ... 184 B. Bdbar 5,9 Baghor 133 Baghora 138 BahadarNahar 3,4 Bahadarpur 140,159 Bahlol Lodi 4 Bahror 140, 141 Banisrawab 143 Bakhtawar Singh 19 Balban 2 Baleta 157 Baldeogarh 169 Balwant Singh 21 Bambohra 138 Bandoli 154 Baniyas 43 Banni Singh 21 Bansur 157, 158 Barah Stream 1 "Barahkotri" 15,26 Bards 124 Barod 142 Bas Kirpalnagar 137 Bhangarh 167 Bhindiisi 133 Bijivar 14,25,140 Birds, List of 37 Bisaldeo 2 Blair 25 Blights 99 Boating 118 Border Passes 78-80 Boundary Settlement 29 Brahmins 43,123 Buffaloes 106 Building Materials 85 Bullocks 106 C. Cadell, Major 25 Camels 106 Camp Equipage 118 Canal 90 Carts 97 Cattle 97 Cavalry 107 Census 37 Chand 1 Charaonds ... ' 153 Charun Dasis 59,60 Chauhans 121 Chiman Singh 20,23 Churaman 11 Climate 128 Coinage 110 Communications ... ... 78,80 Copper 87 Council 116 Country, Description of 27 Courts 114-116 Revenue ... 114 PAGE Courts, Criminal 114,115 Nazul 115 Civil 116 Cows 106 Crops 87 Rotation of 89 Customs 102 D. Dahri 92 Damdama 134 Dasa 13 Dehli 2-4 Dehra 157 Dig 1 Diseases 112 Dispensary 48 E. Education 73, 74 Elephants 105 Endowments Ill Expenditure 100-102 Extradition Treaty 174 F. Fairs Fatehbad Features of Country Festivals Firoz Shah Fiscal Divisions Fish Floods . 71,72 138 28 118 3 ... 37,126,127 30 99 Forests 31 Fort Ulwur ... 4,6 Fort Garrisons ... 107 Foreign Service 48,49 G. Galena 182 Games 46 Gardens 103 Garhi 23 Garhi Mamur 159 Genealogical Tree 176 Geology 177 Gifts Ill Glass 86 Gneiss 86 Gobindgarh 144,145 Grass 33,34 Gujars 43 " Gunijau Khana" 119 H. PiOl "Habub" 48 Hajikhan 7 Hajipur... ... ... ... ... 159 "HakMujrai" 48 Hammirpur 159 Hansi 2 Hardeo Singh 25 Harsoli 138 Harsora ... 159 Hasan Khan 5 Hemu 7 Hills 28 Hindal 8 Hindu Deities ... ... ... ... 52 Horses ... ... ... ... ... 105 Hoshdar Khan 18 Humaiun ... ... ... ... 6, 7 Hunting Establishment 119 I. Impey, Captain ... 5,9 Imtiyazis 108 Indor 4,134,135 Iron 80 Irrigation ... 90-92,103,108,139 Islam Shah 7 Ismail Beg 11,12 Ismailpur 138 Isroda . 137 J. Jadu ... Jagirdars Jail Jains Jai Singh Jallu ... Jats 2 ... 122 109,110 69,70 ... 11 4 43 Jewano 135 Jhindoli 140 Jhirka 3 Jhirri 85,etseq. Judicial Cases .. K. Kadirnagar 140 Kahan Singh 14 KahfrPanthis 60-69 Kairthal 135 Kalas 44,45 Kama 14,19 Kankwdri 165 Karauli 2 Karnikot 140 Katumbar 160, 161 ( 198 ) PAGE Khdnzadas 2,39 Khizar Khdu 3,4 KhoDariba 164 Khora 14, 25 Khushak Ram 17 Kitchen (Eassoi) 119 "KothiDasapra" 108 Kotila 3,4 Kucha wan 19 L. Lachmangarh 162 Lakdir Singh 23-25 Lake 19 Lakes 29 Lala 13 Lai Das 6 LalDasis 53-59 Land Claims 95 Land Revenue 189 Laswarree 19 Lead Ore 83 Library 119 Lime 98 Limestone ... ... ... Appendix Literature 74, 75 M. Macheri 7,15,164 Mahesh 2 Mahtab Singh 25 "Malbah" ... .: 46 MalaKhera 157 Malliks 10 Mandawar 138, 139 Mdndan 141,147 Mandha 134 Mangal Singh 24 Maharaja ... ... ... 24 Manisni ... ... ... ... 6 Manjpur ... ... ... ... 162 Manphul 24 Manufactures 76-78 Manure 89 Maonda... ... ... ... ... 16 Marble 83, 84. 108 Masit 135 Measures ... ... ... ... 88 Menagerie 118 Meos 37 Meteorology ... ... ... ... 112 Mewat 1, 2 Mewathi 2 Minas ... ... ,.. ... ... 41 Minerals 31,86 Mines 80-83 Mint 110 Muazinas 189 r V.F: Mubarak ... ... ... ... 4 Mubarakpur 153 Municipalities 76 Musalmans 70, 71 N. 11, 12, 17 11 93 159 1 119,120 12, 13, &c. 3 182, 183 Nikach 153 Nikumpa ... ... ... ... 6 Nilkantn, Remains of 165 Nimli 133 Nimrana 121-123 Nixon 23,24 Nogawan 153 Nurnagar 138 NajafKhan ... Najaf Kuli Khan Nallah Beds ... Narainpur Narukhand Naruka Families Nariikhas Nasiruddin Nickel . O. Occupancy Rights 96 Ochterlony 21 Officials ' 123 P. Pahal 140 Pai 14 Paliva 14 Panch Thikauas 15 Para 14 Partapgarh ... ... ... ... 168 Partap Singh 15 Patwarris 190 Pensioners ... ... ... ... 108 People, Condition of 44 Perron ... ... ... ... ... 18 Phalsa 140 PipalRhera 143 Ploughing 89 Police 106 Poor 44 Population 50, 51 Price Current 98 Prithwi Pulj 2 Public Works 108 Pur 138 Quarries 83-85 ( 199 ) R. Raht Rajawat Raialo Raja Bahadar ... Rajgarh Rajpiira PAGE 1 1, 167 182-184 20, 23 162-164 164 Rajputs 39 Ramgarh 144, 145 Rampur 159 Ramsewak ... 18, 19 Ramu 21 Ranthambor 15 Reaping 88 Religion ... 52 Reni 164 Rent-free Holdings ... 125 Rent Rates 93,94,185 Reserves of Game and Grass 103, 104 of Wood ... 103 Revenue 100-102 Rewari ... 1, 2 Rivers 28 "Rozindars" 108 Rupnarain 25 S. Sahwal 21 Saligram 21 Salt 86, 103 Saltpetre 86 Sampradiyas 53 Samuchi 161 Sandstone 85 Sanitation 112 Sarehta 134 Schools 48 Settlement 184. Shahabad 133 Sheodan Singh 23, 24 Sherpur 153 SherShah 7 Shivites 52 Shrines 71,72 Sikandar Lodi 5 Slates 85 Slaves 124 Soils 188 Songs 45 Soukar 161 Stone, Prices of 85 Streams 28 PAOB Surajraal 15 Survey 184 T. Tahla 164 Talao 164 Talbirich, Hot Springs of 160 Tapokra 134 Tazims 122, 123 Tenures 94, 95 Thana 18, 25, 164 Thana Ghazi 165,166,168 Tijara 2,4,5,11,126-132 Tillage 87 Timurlang 3 Toshakhaua 118 Trade 78-80 Treaties ... Appendix, 171, 172 Trees 31-33 U. Ulwur City Ulwur Tahsil 1, 155-157 154 V. Vaccination 113 Vakils 97 Vegetable Productions 31 Vehicles Ill Vishnuites 53 W. Wages Wai Water Wealthy Weights Wild Animals ... Wood ... 88 1 128, 143, 190 ... 44 98, 99 34, 35 104, 105 Workshops 109 Wrestlers ... ... 119 Z. Zanana .. 117 University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. REC'D I.D-URI JAN16 DEC 05 Form L-8 20m-]2,'3(S3S