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THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT 
 
 (THEOBROMA CACAO) 
 
 AND 
 
 ITS PRODUCTS 
 
 THE FRUITING-STEM OF A CHOCOLATE-PLANT, THE FLOWERS, YOUNG FRUIT, 
 AND RIPENED POD ALL SPRINGING FROM THE OLDER WOOD. 
 
 WVEESITT 
 
 DORCHESTER, MASS.: 
 
 WALTER BAKER AND COMPANY. 
 
 1891. 
 
Copyright, 1890, 
 BY WALTER BAKER AND COMPANY. 
 
 JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER PAGE 
 
 INTRODUCTORY 5 
 
 I. OUTLINE OF THE EARLY HISTORY OF THE CHOCOLATE PLANT. 
 ITS PRIMITIVE CULTIVATION. EARLY METHODS OF UTIL- 
 IZING THE SEEDS. INTRODUCTION OF THE BEVERAGE INTO 
 EUROPE 7 
 
 II. THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE CHOCOLATE PLANT. THE 
 PRESENF RANGE OF THE PLANT UNDER MODERN METHODS OF 
 CULTIVATION. COMMERCIAL RELATIONS 16 
 
 III. THE SEEDS OF THE CHOCOLATE PLANT, AS THEY APPEAR IN 
 
 COMMERCE. THEIR MICROSCOPIC AND CHEMICAL CHARACTER 23 
 
 IV. MANUFACTURE OF CHOCOLATE, AND BREAKFAST COCOA ... 26 
 
 V. SOME PHYSIOLOGICAL ASPECTS OF CHOCOLATE SEEDS. VALUE 
 OF CHOCOLATE AS AN ARTICLE OF FOOD. APPLICATIONS OF 
 COCOA-BUTTER 32 
 
 VI. A FEW CULINARY RELATIONS OF CHOCOLATE AND BREAKFAST 
 
 COCOA, BY MRS. ELLEN H. RICHARDS AND Miss PARLOA . 35 
 
INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 T^OUR years ago, a convenient handbook on the pro- 
 duction and use of various preparations of the 
 chocolate plant was published by our firm. The present 
 work is designed to give, with considerably more detail, 
 some of the interesting facts relative to the early history 
 and cultivation of the chocolate tree, as well as a fuller 
 account of its botany -and the chemistry of its products. 
 Since this brochure will doubtless fall into the hands 
 of some who do not have access to the earlier work, we 
 have used with freedom some of the material employed 
 in that; but we hope that these necessary repetitions will 
 increase instead of impair the value of the pages now 
 before the reader. 
 
 We trust that this second treatise may be acceptable to 
 our many friends who gave so warm a welcome to the 
 first. 
 
 WALTER BAKER AND COMPANY. 
 
 DORCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, 
 1891. 
 
OF 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT, 
 
 I. 
 
 OUTLINE OF THE EARLY HISTORY OF THE 
 CHOCOLATE-PLANT. 
 
 A T the discovery of America, the natives of the narrower portion 
 *** of the continent bordering on the Caribbean Sea, were found 
 in possession of two luxuries which have been everywhere recog- 
 nized as worthy of extensive cultivation ; namely, tobacco and choco- 
 late. The former of these has made its way into climates totally 
 unlike that of its early home ; the other of these plants, since it 
 cannot bear the low temperature occasionally experienced in our 
 subtropics, is more restricted in its range. The chocolate-plant is 
 confined to the warmer regions of the globe, where it finds the 
 congenial climatic conditions which it enjoyed and still enjoys in 
 its earliest home in America. 
 
 The first references to the chocolate-plant and its products are 
 found in the accounts of the explorers and conquerors who followed 
 Columbus. These first descriptions of this singular tree, of its 
 fruits and seeds, of its uses and the methods of cultivation, are 
 remarkably accurate in all essential particulars. 
 
 One of the earliest, if not indeed the very earliest, delineations 
 of the chocolate-tree is in a rare volume by Bontekoe. The en- 
 graving, which is here reproduced with fidelity, represents the 
 chocolate-tree with its comparatively large fruits or pods borne on 
 
8 
 
 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT. 
 
 the main stem. This might be thought at first to be an error of 
 the artist, but it is in fact a rude expression of one of the most 
 remarkable peculiarities of the plant. As will be shown presently, 
 when a fuller description of the 'plant is given, the fruits are, as a 
 rule, formed on the older parts. Another interesting feature is 
 shown in the engraving: 1 the chocolate-tree is sheltered by a larger 
 
 tree of some other kind near it. We shall see shortly, that this 
 practice of planting a sheltering tree to shade the young chocolate 
 plants for a time, is still kept up wherever the plant is successfully 
 cultivated. It is certainly interesting that this point in cultivation, 
 which might easily have been thought to be accidental or local, was 
 delineated more than three centuries ago. By the natives of tropi- 
 cal America, the seeds of the chocolate-plant, which will be more 
 
 1 The figure in the left of the foreground is said by Bontekoe to represent the 
 native method of procuring fire by rapidly twirling a pointed stick in a groove of a 
 piece of wood placed on the ground. 
 
OUTLINE OF ITS EARLY HISTORY. 
 
 particularly described in a later chapter, were first roasted and 
 then rudely ground. For this purpose they employed the flat or 
 curved surface of the sort of stone used by them to grind their 
 maize, or Indian corn. In the engraving, one of the most simple 
 mills or flat mortars is seen with its roller. The roller was merely 
 a short thick stone of a cylindrical shape, which could be used with 
 one or both hands somewhat after the manner of the common roll- 
 ing-pin everywhere used in 
 kitchens. By this simple ap- 
 pliance, the crushed seeds 
 were mixed with various in- 
 gredients, among which may 
 be mentioned spices of dif- 
 ferent kinds. A modification 
 of this was later used in 
 Spain. See page 15. 
 
 The drinks made from 
 this coarse chocolate were 
 frequently very complex, but the chocolate itself was the chief 
 constituent. It was the custom to beat the mixture into a froth 
 or foam, by means of stirrers, of mallet-like forms; in fact, it is 
 said by some writers that the very name chocolate, is derived 
 from a native word indicating the noise made by the stirring of 
 the beverage. 
 
 Thus, Thomas Gage, in his " New Survey of the West Indies," 
 says (under date of 1648), " The name chocolatte is an Indian name, 
 and is compounded from atte, as some say, or as others, atle, which 
 in the Mexican language signifieth water, and from the sound 
 which the water (wherein is put the chocolatte) makes, as choco, 
 choco, cJioco, when it is stirred in a cup by an instrument called 
 a 'molinet/ or ' molinillo,' until it bubble and rise unto a froath." 
 
 FROM A PHOTOGRAPH OF A STONE MILL, 
 OR FLAT MORTAR. 
 
10 
 
 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT: 
 
 The same writer gives us an interesting account of the native 
 method of preparing the drink. From the extract, which is 
 copied without -change of the quaint spelling, it will be seen how 
 
 wide the use of chocolate 
 was in Europe towards the 
 middle of the seventeenth 
 century : 
 
 " Now, for the making or 
 compounding of this drink, I 
 shall set down here the method. 
 The cacao and the other in- 
 gredients must be beaten in a 
 morter of stone, or (as the 
 Indians use) ground upon a 
 broad stone, which they call 
 Metate, and is only made for 
 that use. But first the ingre- 
 dients are all to be dried, ex- 
 cept the Achiotte, with care 
 that they be beaten to powder, 
 keeping them still in stirring 
 that they be not burnt, or be- 
 come black ; for if they be 
 overdried, they will be bitter 
 and lose their virtue. The cin- 
 namon and the long red pep- 
 per are to be first beaten with 
 the anniseed, and then the ca- 
 cao, which must be beaten by 
 
 little and little till it be all powdered, and in the beating it must be 
 turned round that it may mix the better. Every one of these ingredients 
 must be beaten by itself, and then all be put into the vessel where the 
 cacao is, which you must stir together with a spoon, and then take out 
 that paste, and put it into the morter, under which there must be a 
 
 SOME OF THE FORMS OF CHOCOLATE STIRRERS 
 ("MOLINETS"). 
 
 From a treatise published in the Seventeenth Century. 
 
OUTLINE OF ITS EARLY HISTORY. II 
 
 little fire, after the confection is made ; but if more fire be put under 
 than will only warm it, then the unctuous part will dry away. The 
 Achiotte also must be put in in the beating, that it may the better take the 
 colour. All the ingredients must be searced, save only the cacao, and 
 if from the cacao the dry shell be taken, it will be the better. When 
 it is well beaten and incorporated (which will be known by the short- 
 nesse of it), then with a spoon (so in the Indias is used) is taken up 
 some of the paste, which will be almost liquid, and made into tablets, 
 or else without a spoon put into boxes, and when it is cold it will be 
 hard. 
 
 "Those that make it into tablets put a spoonful of the paste upon a 
 piece of paper (the Indians put it upon the leaf of a plaintin tree), where, 
 being put into the shade (for in the sun it melts and dissolves), it grows 
 hard ; and then bowing the paper or leaf, the tablet fals off by reason 
 of -the fatnesse of the paste. But if it be put into anything of earth or 
 wood, it stickes fast, and will not come off but with scraping or break- 
 ing. The manner of drinking it is diverse ; the one (being the way 
 most used in Mexico) is to take it hot with Atolle, dissolving a tablet in 
 hot water, and stirring and beating it in the cup, when it is to be drunk, 
 with a Molinet, and when it is well stirred to a scumme, or froth, then 
 to fill the cup with hot Atolle, and so drink it sup by sup. Another way 
 is that the chocolate, being dissolved with cold water and stirred with 
 the Molinet, and the scumme being taken off and put into another 
 vessel, the remainder be set upon the fire, with as much sugar as will 
 sweeten it, and when it is warme, then to powre it upon the scumme 
 which was taken off before, and so to drink it. But the most ordinary 
 way is to warme the water very hot, and then to powre out half the cup 
 full that you mean to drink ; and to put into it a tablet or two, or as 
 much as will thicken reasonably the water, and then grinde it well with 
 the Molinet, and when it is well ground and risen to a scumme, to fill 
 the cup with hot water, and so drink it by sups (having sweetened it 
 with sugar), and to eat it with a little conserve or maple bred, steeped 
 into the chocolatte. 
 
 " Besides these ways there is another way (which is much used in the 
 Island of Santo Domingo), which is to put the chocolatte into a pipkin 
 with a little water, and to let it boyte well till it be dissolved, and then 
 
12 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT: 
 
 to put in sufficient water and sugar according to the quantity of the 
 chocolatte, and then to boyle it again untill there comes an oily scumme 
 upon it, and then to drink it. 
 
 " There is another way yet to drink chocolatte, which is cold, which 
 the Indians use at feasts to refresh themselves, and it is made after this 
 manner : The chocolatte (which is made with none, or very few, ingre- 
 dients) being dissolved in cold water with the Molinet. they take off the 
 scumme or crassy part, which riseth in great quantity, especially when 
 the cacao is older and more putrefied. The scumme they lay aside in a 
 little dish by itself, and then put sugar into that part from whence was 
 taken the scumme, and then powre it from on high into the scumme, and 
 so drink it cold. And this drink is so cold that it agreeth not with all 
 men's stomachs ; for by experience it hath been found that it doth hurt 
 by causing pains in the stomach, especially to women. 
 
 "The third way of taking it is the most used, and thus certainly it 
 doth no hurt, neither know I why it may not be used as well in England 
 as in other parts, both hot and cold ; for where it is so much used, the 
 most, if not all, as well in the Indias as in Spain, Italy, Flanders (which 
 is a cold countrey), find that it agreeth well with them. True it is, it is 
 used more in the Indias than in the European parts, because there the 
 stomachs are more apt to faint than here, and a cup of chocolatte well 
 confectioned comforts and strengthens the stomach. For myself I must 
 say, I used it twelve years constantly, drinking one cup in the morning, 
 another yet before dinner between nine or ten of the clock ; another 
 within an hour or two after dinner, and another between four and five 
 in the afternoon ; and when I was purposed to sit up late to study, 
 I would take another cup about seven or eight at night, which would 
 keep me waking till about midnight. And if by chance I did neglect 
 any of these accustomed houres, I presently found my stomach fainty. 
 And with this custome I lived twelve years in those parts healthy, with- 
 out any obstructions, or oppilations, not knowing what either ague or 
 feaver was." 
 
 After its introduction into Europe from America, chocolate 
 was used at first only as a luxury, but it has steadily advanced 
 
OUTLINE OF ITS EARLY HISTORY. 
 
 FRONTISPIECE OF ONE OF THE EARLIEST WORKS ON CHOCOLATE. 
 
 in popular esteem until it is now recognized as one of the neces- 
 saries of life. 
 
 It would be interesting to speculate as to the accidents which 
 led to the original use of such beverages as coffee, tea, and 
 chocolate. The earliest employment of the two former is veiled 
 
14 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT: 
 
 in as deep a mystery as that which surrounds the chocolate- 
 plant. All were used at the outset by what we have been 
 accustomed to call the uncultivated races of mankind, but we 
 cannot surmise what first attracted their attention to these 
 plants. One can only say that by the natives of lands where 
 the plants grow naturally, they have all been used from time 
 immemorial, and that all three are welcome gifts from a rude 
 state of civilization to the highest which exists to-day. By the 
 savages and the Aztecs of America, by the roving tribes of 
 Arabia, and by the dwellers in the farther East, the virtues of 
 these three plants were recognized long before any one of them 
 was introduced into Europe. 
 
 There is reason to believe that long before the discovery of 
 America, Tea and Coffee had been vaguely known to travellers 
 in the Orient, as curiosities, much as we to-day regard the Kola- 
 nut and Mate, but neither Tea nor Coffee was then employed as 
 a beverage anywhere in Western Europe. In fact, all trust- 
 worthy evidence in the case leads us to a surprising conclusion, 
 namely, That Chocolate was the first of these beverages to at- 
 tract the attention of Europeans. This beverage rapidly made its 
 way throughout Europe, beginning from Spain and Portugal, 
 whither its discoverers had brought it. The other beverages, 
 Tea and Coffee, soon followed, and after a short time became 
 associated together in popular regard. 
 
 In a duodecimo work published in 1685, and now very rare, 
 the beverages derived from these three plants are described in 
 a clear and forcible manner. The reproduction of the frontis- 
 piece of this book, given above, shows how intimate the asso- 
 ciation of these beverages was regarded even two centuries ago. 
 It is interesting to observe the distinction made by the artist in 
 the receptacles and cups for holding these three different drinks. 
 
OUTLINE OF ITS NATURAL HISTORY. 15 
 
 On the floor, near the vase, is seen one of the chocolate-stirrers 
 described on page 10. 
 
 At the outset the manufacture of chocolate in Europe was 
 carried on with substantially the same appliances as those used 
 by the natives. A curious indication of this is afforded by the 
 engraving, which shows that the Portuguese mill was to all in- 
 tents modelled after that used by the Mexicans. 
 
 CHOCOLATE-GRINDING IN THE SEVENTEENTH 
 CENTURY. 
 
 From an early engraving. 
 
II. 
 
 THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE CHOCOLATE- 
 PLANT. 
 
 THEOBROMA CACAO. 
 
 chocolate plant is known to botanists as Theobroma 
 Cacao. The first or generic word in this name means 
 food of the gods. The genus contains six species, only one 
 of which is generally cultivated. It is probable, however, that 
 some of the seeds which find their way into commerce are 
 yielded by other and wild species. It is, moreover, more than 
 
ITS NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 4 
 
 FLOWERS, FRUIT, AND SEEDS OF THEOBROMA. 
 From an old engraving. 
 
 likely that among the numerous varieties of Theobroma Cacao 
 now cultivated there may be some hybrids between the different 
 forms. 
 
 The plant belongs to the Sterculiaceae, a natural order con- 
 taining forty-one genera and five hundred and twenty species. 
 The general habit of the tree is well shown in the engraving. 
 
i8 
 
 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT: 
 
 FLOWERS, FRUIT, AND SEEDS OK THEOBROMA. 
 Front a recent drawing. 
 
ITS NATURAL HISTORY. 19 
 
 The seeds of the plant are borne in pods, represented in the 
 illustrations on pages 17 and 18, the former taken from one of 
 the early works on the subject. No. I in the first engraving ex- 
 hibits the ripened pod, 5 and 6 the fruits in different stages of 
 growth. No. 2 shows the pod cut open and displays some of the 
 seeds, while 3 and 4 are the seeds themselves, the former in 
 its natural state, the latter with the seed-coats removed. 
 
 The pod is irregular and angular, much like some forms of 
 cucumbers, but more pointed at the lower extremity, and more 
 distinctly grooved. It measures in length nine inches to a 
 foot, or even more, and about half as much in diameter. The 
 color, when young, is green, becoming later dark yellow or yellow- 
 ish brown. The rind is thick and tough. The pod is filled with 
 closely packed " beans," or seeds, imbedded in a mass of cellular 
 tissue, sometimes of pleasant subacid taste. The seeds are about 
 as large as ordinary almonds, whitish when fresh, and of a dis- 
 agreeable bitter taste. When dried they become brown. 
 
 The fruits are about four months in ripening; but they appear 
 and mature the whole year through. In point of fact, however, 
 there are chief harvests, usually in early spring, but this is different 
 for different countries. 
 
 The following extract from a comparatively recent consular 
 report gives a clear idea of the modern method of cultivating 
 the plant in some parts of South America. The extract was 
 given in our former edition, but it is thought best to tran- 
 scribe it here. 
 
 "The tree grows to the average height of thirteen feet, and from 
 five to eight inches in diameter, is of spreading habit and healthy 
 growth, and although requiring much more care and attention than 
 the coffee-tree, yet its equally reliable crops require comparatively 
 little labor in properly preparing for the market. 
 
20 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT: 
 
 x 
 
 "... There are two varieties of the cocoa-tree cultivated in Venez- 
 uela, known as El Criollo and El Trinitario, respectively, the former 
 of which, though not so prolific, nor as early fruiting as the latter, is 
 yet superior to it in size, color, sweetness, and oleaginous properties 
 of the fruit, and in the fact that it always finds ready sale, while the 
 latter is often dull or neglected. The difference in price of the two 
 varieties is also marked, the former being quoted at $28 to $30 per 
 fanega (no pounds), while the latter commands approximately half 
 that price. 
 
 " While coffee can be successfully cultivated under a temperature of 
 60 degrees F., the cocoa-tree, for proper development and remunera- 
 tive crops, requires a temperature of 80 degrees F. ; hence the area of 
 the cocoa belt is comparatively restricted, and the cocoa-planter pre- 
 sumably has not to fear the fierce competition that he has encountered 
 in the cultivation of cotton and coffee. Besides the condition of 
 temperature above stated, this crop needs a moist soil and humid 
 atmosphere; and so the lands along the coast of the Caribbean sea, 
 sloping from the mountain-tops to the shore, bedewed by the ex- 
 halations of the sea and irrigated by the numerous rivulets that 
 course down the valleys, are found to be, in all respects, well adapted 
 to the profitable cultivation of cocoa. And while the lands in the 
 interior possessing facilities for irrigation may be said to be equally 
 as good for the purpose, yet the absence of roads, and the conse- 
 quently difficult transportation of produce on the backs of donkeys 
 over rugged mountain paths, materially reduce the profits on the crop 
 before it reaches the market. 
 
 " A cocoa plantation is set in quite the same manner as an apple- 
 orchard, except that the young stalks may be transplanted from the 
 nursery after two months' growth. No preparation of the soil is deemed 
 necessary, and no manures are applied. The young trees are planted 
 about fifteen feet equidistant, which will accommodate two hundred 
 trees to the acre. Between rows, and at like spaces, are planted rows 
 of the Bucare, a tree of rapid growth, that serves to shade the soil 
 as well as to shield the young trees from the torrid sun. Small per- 
 manent trenches must be maintained from tree to tree throughout the 
 entire length of the rows, so that, at least once in the week, the stream, 
 
ITS NATURAL HISTORY. 21 
 
 descending from the mountains, may be turned into these little chan- 
 nels and bear needful moisture to trees and soil. At the age of five 
 years the plantation begins to bear fruit, and annually yields two 
 crops, that ripening in June being termed the crop of San Juan, and 
 that maturing at Christmas being known as the crop of La Navidad. 
 The average age to which the trees attain, under proper care, may be 
 estimated at forty years, during which period it will give fair to full 
 crops of fruit ; but of course it must be understood that, as in our 
 fruit orchards, a new tree must be set from time to time to replace one 
 that may be decayed or blighted. After careful inquiry it may be 
 safely stated that the average crop of the cocoa plantation at ten 
 years of age, and under a proper state of cultivation, will amount to 
 five hundred or six hundred pounds per acre." 
 
 The method of preparing the fruit for shipment is thus de- 
 scribed in the " Encyclopaedia Britannica " : - 
 
 " In gathering, the workman is careful to cut down only fully 
 ripened pods, which he adroitly accomplishes with a long pole armed 
 with two prongs, or a knife at its extremity. The pods are left in a 
 .heap on the ground for about twenty-four hours; they are then cut 
 open and the seeds are taken out and carried in baskets to the place 
 where they undergo the operation of sweating or curing. There the 
 acid juice which accompanies the seeds is first drained off, after which 
 they are placed in a sweating-box, in which they are enclosed and 
 allowed to ferment for some time, great care being taken to keep the 
 temperature from rising too high. The fermenting process is, in some 
 cases, affected by throwing the seeds into holes or trenches in the 
 ground, and covering them with earth or clay. The seeds in this pro- 
 cess, which is called " claying," are occasionally stirred to keep the fer- 
 mentation from proceeding too violently. The sweating is a process 
 which requires the very greatest attention and experience, as on it, 
 to a great extent, depends the flavor of the seeds and their fitness for 
 preservation. The operation varies according to the state of the 
 weather, but a period of about two days yields the best results. There- 
 after the seeds are exposed to the sun for drying, and those of a fine 
 
22 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT. 
 
 quality should then assume a warm, reddish tint, which characterizes 
 beans of a superior quality." 
 
 Cocoa-beans are derived chiefly from the following sources, 
 here arranged alphabetically. A recent author has classified 
 them under two heads, unfermented and fermented ; but this 
 classification is very misleading, since it happens that from a few 
 of the places mentioned variable proportions of both sorts are 
 brought to market. Ariba (Ecuador), Bahia (Brazil), Caracas 
 (Venezuela), Cayenne (French Guiana), Ceylon, Guatemala, Haiti, 
 or Port au Prince, Java, Machala, or ordinary Guayaquil (Ecua- 
 dor), Maracaiba (Colombia), Mararion (Brazil), St. Domingo, 
 Surinam (Dutch Guiana), Trinidad (W. I.), from Africa, the 
 Seychelles, Martinique, and Bourbon, variable amounts are begin- 
 ning to appear as regular products. It is generally understood 
 that some of the best sorts of South American cocoa are con- 
 sumed at home and do not find their way, in definite quantities, 
 or as a stated supply, to any foreign ports. Among these are 
 Soconusco and Esmeraldas. At the last French exposition these 
 and other very fine sorts from Venezuela and Ecuador were ex- 
 hibited. New fields are being opened up in many directions to 
 meet the increasing demand for the product. 
 
III. 
 
 THE SEEDS OF THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT AS THEY 
 APPEAR IN COMMERCE. THEIR MICROSCOPIC 
 AND CHEMICAL CHARACTERS. 
 
 THE seeds of the chocolate-plant are brought into the market 
 in their crude state, as almond-shaped " beans," which differ 
 in color and somewhat in texture. It is not uncommon to find 
 the external surface of the bean more or less covered with a 
 thin irregular layer of attached earth, but this is generally pretty 
 well cleared off during the transportation. 
 
 Upon the color of shell and kernel, the relative brittleness, the 
 flavor, and the odor, depends the market value of the seeds. 
 
 The dried seeds have a papery, brittle shell, which is very 
 smooth on the inside, but on the outside exhibits, under the 
 microscope, a few short hairs and round excrescences. But these 
 are mostly lost by the rough handling and by the attrition of the 
 seeds with one another during transportation. The kernel consists 
 of two large cotyledons or seed-leaves, reddish-gray or reddish- 
 brown, with a shining, oily surface ; the whole crushing rather 
 easily into a loose mass of fragments. The kernel, when dry, has 
 a minute, tough, almost stony radicle which separates easily from 
 the cotyledons. Microscopic examination shows that the cells of 
 the seed-leaves contain albumen, oily matters, sometimes in a 
 crystalline condition, crystals of an entirely different shape, 
 starch, coloring substances in special receptacles known as pig- 
 
24 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT: 
 
 ment-cells, and ducts with spiral markings. The starch grains 
 do not have any very characteristic form or markings : they are 
 generally spherical and simple. The only peculiarity worth men- 
 tioning, is the relative slowness with which they are acted on by 
 hot water and by iodine. The coloring substances are mainly of 
 a carmine or violet color, and are distinguished by the change of 
 shade when an alkali is added, becoming thereby darker. 
 
 These are the only structural elements which a pure powder 
 or paste of chocolate should show under the microscope. Any 
 other substances must be recognized as accidental or intentional 
 additions. 
 
 All seeds of whatever kind contain, as a part of their substance, 
 the matter of which cell-walls are made ; namely, cellulose. The 
 percentage differs in different seeds, in those of the chocolate- 
 plant being about three in the hundred. Cellulose has the same 
 chemical composition as starch ; but its physical properties are not 
 the same as those of starch, among which may be mentioned its 
 entire insolubility in boiling water. 
 
 Starch forms, on an average, eight to ten per cent of chocolate- 
 seeds. It consists of minute spherical grains, not distinguishable 
 from that found in many other kinds of seeds. Traces of gum 
 and of other allied bodies are also present in the seeds. 
 
 Albuminoids, or substances resembling, in a general way, the 
 albumin of egg, occur in chocolate-seeds as they do in other seeds, 
 and in a somewhat higher amount than in certain other cases in 
 which the seeds are used as food. The percentage ranges from 
 about fifteen to twenty, depending on the variety. These albumin- 
 oids are compounds of nitrogen, and are extremely nutritious. In 
 the seeds they occur in a readily assimilable form, fit for digestion. 
 Their peculiar relations as flesh-formers are referred to in the 
 section treating of the physiology of chocolate-seeds. 
 
ITS SEEDS AS THEY APPEAR IN COMMERCE. 2$ 
 
 Cacao-red occurs as a coloring matter in small amount. It is 
 rendered dark by alkalies. 
 
 Theobromine, the active principle of the cocoa-bean, consti- 
 tutes less than one per cent of the weight of the seeds, but it 
 varies greatly in amount in different seeds, ranging from -ffa of 
 one per cent in some, to a trifle over one per cent in others. 
 
 The ash left on completely burning cocoa-beans is not far from 
 four per cent. Its composition is substantially that of the ash 
 of seeds of other plants. 
 
 Cocoa-butter, or oil, constitutes not far from fifty per cent of 
 good cocoa-beans. The oil is remarkable for its freedom from 
 rancidity and its very bland character. Its uses are innumerable. 
 
 The following averages of many analyses by a leading recent 
 authority may be of interest : 
 
 UNROASTED. 
 
 Moisture 7.11 
 
 Oil 51.78 
 
 Theobromine ... .35 
 
 Starch 5.78 
 
 Cellulose 3.1 
 
 Other carbohydrates, glucosides, etc. . . . 10.05 
 
 Protein matters 15.61 
 
 Ash 3.60 
 
 ROASTED. 
 
 Moisture 6.51 
 
 Oil 49. 24 
 
 Theobromine 43 
 
 Starch 10.43 
 
 Cellulose 3.1 
 
 Other carbohydrates, glucosides, etc. . . . 7.78 
 
 Protein matters 18.33 
 
 Ash 3-9 2 
 
IV. 
 
 MANUFACTURE OF CHOCOLATE AND BREAKFAST 
 
 COCOA. 
 
 have already called attention to the simple process by 
 which the natives of Central America prepared a nutri- 
 tious beverage from the seeds of the chocolate-plant. The essen- 
 tial features of this process, modified and greatly improved by 
 modern science, are worthy of consideration at this time. 
 
 The selected cocoa-beans are first cleaned from the dust and 
 attached particles which have come from various sources during 
 the fermentation of the seeds. The machines for cleaning the 
 beans are very ingenious and effective, removing from the seed- 
 coat every trace of foreign matter. 
 
 The cleaned seeds are next roasted in the most careful manner, 
 every precaution being taken to secure a uniform effect through 
 the whole mass. During the roasting the seeds change color 
 somewhat and become more or less modified in taste. In under- 
 roasted seeds the flavor is not fully developed, while in over- 
 roasted seeds the pleasant taste is likely to become greatly 
 impaired, or it may even be wholly replaced by a bitter and 
 harsh flavor. These relations of color and taste to the roasting 
 of the seeds make this portion of the manufacture one of the 
 most delicate processes from beginning to end. 
 
 By the roasting the shell becomes more readily detachable, 
 and its complete removal is the next step. The crushing of the 
 seeds into small fragments is easily accomplished ; and this is 
 
CHOCOLATE AND BREAKFAST COCOA. 2? 
 
 followed by a thorough winnowing, by which the lighter shells 
 are carried away by themselves, leaving the clean fragments of 
 the roasted seeds ready for further manipulation. 
 
 Among the fragments can be detected minute and very tough 
 bits of tissue. These bits are the hardened germs, or rather 
 portions of the germs, and these are separated from the rest by an 
 apparatus of much simplicity and efficiency. 
 
 The clean shells are usually placed at once in packages for 
 transportation. They are extensively used for the domestic prep- 
 aration of a wholesome and very low-priced drink. This beverage 
 contains a fair proportion of the active principle of the chocolate- 
 seeds themselves, and the flavor is suggestive of chocolate. 
 
 The cleaned fragments constitute the so-called " cocoa-nibs " 
 of some foreign markets, and in this state they are used for the 
 preparation of a simple decoction. But in this form they require 
 to be boiled a good while for the development of flavor, and it is 
 therefore better to have them treated beforehand in order to 
 reduce the time of boiling; and this is all the more necessary, 
 since during the long boiling a part of the more delicate aroma 
 peculiar to chocolate-seeds is apt to be dissipated. 
 
 We are next to trace these fragments, through the chocolate- 
 mill, and afterwards follow similar fragments through the cocoa- 
 factory. 
 
 In the preparation of chocolate, the fragments are ground by 
 a complicated mechanism until they attain the greatest degree of 
 fineness, and constitute a perfectly homogeneous mass or paste. 
 If the chocolate is to be a plain chocolate, it is to receive its 
 delicate flavoring and then go directly into the moulds for shaping 
 it. Every step of the process has to be watched with the most 
 assiduous care. When the chocolate is formed and properly 
 cooled, it is wrapped and packed for the market. 
 
2.8 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT. 
 
 But if the chocolate is to be sweetened, a definite amount of 
 the purest sugar, previously pulverized, is to be added, the whole 
 ground and commingled, the proper flavoring of pure vanilla added, 
 and the semi-solid mass formed in moulds as before. After being 
 moulded it is sent to the packing-room and wrapped. 
 
 The variations in the process are innumerable, but all of them 
 are comparatively unimportant when taken singly ; the skill in the 
 manufacture requires that each of these slight changes should be 
 made at just the right time and in the right way. In the manu- 
 facture of Walter Baker and Co.'s chocolate, this skill has become 
 developed to a very high degree during the hundred years of 
 success. That the firm is ready to avail itself of every appliance 
 known in modern manufacture, is seen by their adoption of the 
 complicated machinery illustrated on page 29. This chocolate- 
 machine has a capacity of fr.e tons of pure chocolate daily. It 
 is accessible to visitors, who may apply at the office in Dorchester 
 for permission to see it in operation. 
 
 It is unnecessary to detail the steps of manufacture of many 
 of the chocolate specialties of the firm. 
 
 We turn now to the consideration of breakfast cocoa. 
 
 The manufacture of breakfast cocoa is based upon two impor- 
 tant factors : first, the removal of a definite portion of the cocoa- 
 oil from the roasted seeds ; and second, increasing the miscibility 
 of the powdered seeds by securing the greatest practicable degree 
 of fineness. 
 
o 
 r 
 > 
 
 H 
 
 M 
 
 2 * 
 
 I s 
 
 3 
 
 3 5 
 
 PI 
 
 1 in 
 
 I: 
 
 1 J T 
 
THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT: 
 
 While the oil of the chocolate-seed is perfectly wholesome, 
 there are some persons who find in the percentage natural to 
 the seeds a too large amount for easy digestion. The removal 
 
 of a part of this, which 
 might with propriety be 
 called an excess of the oil, 
 was practised even in very 
 early days, as is seen in the 
 cut herewith given, taken 
 from an old work on the sub- 
 ject. The present method 
 of extracting the oil is not 
 essentially different, save in 
 a few particulars, from that 
 here figured, and therefore 
 need not be described in 
 detail. 
 
 The method of manufac- 
 ture is substantially as fol- 
 lows : the ground frag- 
 ments of roasted seeds are 
 subjected to pressure, and 
 with the result of withdraw- 
 ing just as much oil as the manufacturers desire to abstract. The 
 pressed mass is, in the most successful process, treated mechanically 
 in such a manner as to divide and subdivide the minute particles 
 until they are capable of passing through a sieve having several 
 thousand meshes to the square inch. But such pulverization as this 
 would, under ordinary circumstances, reduce the mass to a dull and 
 unattractive powder. In the process devised by the firm of Walter 
 
CHOCOLATE AND BREAKFAST COCOA. 31 
 
 Baker and Co., this high degree of fineness is secured without 
 any loss of brilliancy in the powder, the color being of the 
 bright-red which is not only attractive in appearance, but when 
 conjoined with the natural chocolate odor and flavor is character- 
 istic of absolutely pure cocoa of the highest grade. 
 
 It is instructive to compare such cocoa with the cocoas pre- 
 pared by what is known in chemical technology as the chemical 
 process. The latter are prepared by treatment with alkaline 
 matters which act on the coloring substances in the seeds, increas- 
 ing the apparent effect of hot water when the latter is added. In 
 chemically prepared cocoas, the exquisite natural odor and flavor 
 of pure cocoa-seeds have been diminished or wholly lost by the 
 severe treatment to which the materials have been subjected. In 
 some cases the loss of the natural flavor is sought to be partially 
 supplied by the use of fragrant gums, wholly foreign to the natural 
 product. 
 
 The detection of these admixtures is generally easy. Compari- 
 son with the well-known pure breakfast cocoa of Walter Baker and 
 Co. will reveal at once the vast superiority of a product which has 
 not been treated by chemicals, but which contains only the finest 
 possible powder of the best chocolate-seeds freed from the excess 
 of oil. The exquisite flavor and odor of the pure product are due 
 wholly to the seeds themselves, since absolutely no foreign matter 
 is added from first to last. Walter Baker and Co.'s breakfast cocoa 
 can be used by students of the microscope and of chemistry as a 
 perfect type of the highest order of excellence in manufacture. 
 The enormous increase in consumption of Baker's cocoa and 
 chocolate indicates that our discriminating public appreciate a 
 thoroughly good article when they see it. 
 
V. 
 
 SOME PHYSIOLOGICAL ASPECTS OF CHOCOLATE- 
 SEEDS. VALUE OF CHOCOLATE AS AN ARTI- 
 CLE OF FOOD. 
 
 THE seeds of plants contain a germ, or embryo, together with 
 a certain amount of food. As soon as the germ sprouts, the 
 food, or a good part of it, is consumed by the seedling, being used 
 by it in the formation of new parts, such as roots and leaves by 
 which the materials for more food can be obtained from the soil and 
 air. Now it happens that the food of plants is pretty much the 
 same as the food of animals, although there is this marked differ- 
 ence in the manner of procuring it : plants can construct their 
 own food from inorganic or mineral matters taken from the earth 
 and atmosphere, while animals, even those which are most like 
 plants, must have their supply of food from organic nature. 
 
 Since, then, plants prepare the food which animals are to use 
 (of course flesh-eating animals use their plants, so to speak, at 
 second-hand), it comes to pass very naturally that the food in a 
 good many seeds has been recognized from early times as very 
 useful food for man. Thus the cereals wheat, maize, oats, bar- 
 ley, and rice are the seeds of grasses ; and there are many other 
 seeds, such as beans, peas, buckwheat, and so on, which have been 
 appropriated as food by man from remote antiquity. But the 
 seeds of some plants are unfit for human food, owing to disagree- 
 able properties which they possess; while there are a few which 
 stand on the very edge of the limit of foods, and have been used in 
 time of scarcity. 
 
CHOCOLATE AS AN ARTICLE OF FOOD. 33 
 
 The seeds of at least two plants are used as important 
 adjuncts to our list of foods, and can be enumerated among 
 foods without any impropriety. These are coffee and cocoa. 
 They contain nutritive properties, the latter in very much 
 higher degree than the former, and they possess also peculiar 
 constituents which entitle them to rank as luxuries. These pecul- 
 iar constituents are (i) flavoring matters, and (2) an active prin- 
 ciple. But, either from its constitution or from its association in 
 the seed, the active principle of coffee, although it has nearly or 
 quite the same ultimate composition as the active principle of 
 cocoa, is unlike it in its effects. The active principle of cocoa is 
 substantially free, as used in its preparations, from any undesirable 
 effects on the nervous system. This active principle of cocoa is 
 Theobromine. 
 
 The essentials of a perfect food are (i) a certain amount of 
 carbohydrates, (2) of albuminoids, and (3) certain mineral matters, 
 these latter being substantially the same in all seeds used as food. 
 In cocoa these three groups are combined in proper proportion to 
 constitute a complete food, but there is superadded the active prin- 
 ciple, Theobromin^ which places it at once in the class of luxuries 
 as well as of necessary foods. 
 
 When cocoa-seeds are prepared properly for food, without 
 doing violence to the chemical relations of the different compo- 
 nents, a comforting nutritive article of the highest value is ob- 
 tained. This ideal method of preparation is not a chemical 
 torturing by the addition of foreign ingredients, as in the alkali 
 process, but it consists in the complete unlocking, by perfectly 
 natural, mechanical means, of all the virtues of the seeds. We do 
 no! try to render the albuminoids of wheat and other grains soluble 
 by means of ammonia, soda, or potash, nor do we think it desirable 
 to increase the solubility of the albuminoids of egg and meat by 
 
34 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT. 
 
 adding caustic or carbonated alkalies to them before they are used. 
 And yet chemical processes analogous to these have been de- 
 vised and are sometimes used with regard to cocoa. In most cases 
 these added substances are detected in the increased amount of 
 mineral matters found in the ash after burning the preparation. 
 The amount of ash in pure cocoa is about four per cent. Any 
 appreciable amount above this may be attributed to the admixture 
 of mineral matters used in the preparation. 
 
 The oil in pure chocolate-seeds is about fifty per cent of the 
 whole weight. Although the oil is exceedingly bland and free 
 from rancidity, it has been found expedient in some cases to 
 withdraw a part of this oil, leaving a smaller amount in the prod- 
 uct. This is the method pursued in the manufacture of the 
 powdered cocoas. With this reduction in the quantity of oil, 
 the resultant beverage is less likely to disagree with delicate 
 digestion. 
 
 It is in all cases of the first importance to obtain only pure 
 cocoa of the highest quality, free from any admixture of foreign 
 matter, such as the alkalies or their carbonates ; and further, the 
 product ought to be of the greatest degree of fineness. With 
 regard to the flavors added to chocolate, it is perhaps needless to 
 say that they should be of the utmost degree of purity. This is 
 especially true of vanilla, which owing to its high cost is frequently 
 replaced by artificial flavors. There is, in one respect, a notable 
 difference between sweet chocolate and cocoa : the former may be 
 flavored, the latter should never be. A pure cocoa must be abso- 
 lutely dependent on its own delicious, natural odor and flavor. No 
 addition of any substance of any kind is admissible. 
 
SUGGESTIONS 
 
 RELATIVE TO 
 
 THE COOKING OF CHOCOLATE AND COCOA. 
 
 BY MRS. ELLEN H. RICHARDS, 
 
 Of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. 
 
 r I ^HE flavor of the cocoa-bean seems to be almost universally 
 * liked, and the use of the various preparations made from it 
 is constantly increasing. From the sweet chocolate with which 
 the traveller now provides himself in all journeys in which the 
 supply of food is doubtful either in quantity or quality, to delicate 
 coloring and flavoring of cakes and ices, nearly all kinds of culinary 
 preparations |pave benefited by the abundance of this favorite 
 substance. 
 
 In these forms, chocolate is used in a semi-raw state, the 
 bean having been simply roasted at a gentle heat, ground, and 
 mixed with sugar, which holds the fat. By varying the quan- 
 tity of the chocolate to be mixed with the ingredients of the cake 
 or ice, an unlimited variety of flavors can be obtained. 
 
 In preparing it as a beverage for the table a mistake has been 
 frequently made in considering chocolate merely as a flavor, an 
 adjunct to the rest of the meal, instead of giving it its due promi- 
 nence as a real food, containing all of the necessary nutritive prin- 
 ciples. A cup of chocolate made with sugar and milk is in itself 
 a fair breakfast. 
 
 There is much to be said in favor of preparations of the 
 whole bean which secure all of the valuable nutrition contained in 
 
36 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT. 
 
 this " food for the gods," and rightly understood, it is possible to 
 make them more important articles of diet than they now are. 
 But since the large percentage of fat seems to require correspond- 
 ingly large quantities of sugar to render the beverage palatable, 
 and this very rich, sweet drink soon cloys if made strong enough 
 to be nutritious, it is, fortunately, possible to extract the larger 
 part of the fat without injury to the flavor so characteristic of 
 chocolate. In this form, called cocoa, less sugar and more milk are 
 needed, and the resulting beverage suits even delicate stomachs, 
 and is yet of high food value. 
 
 It is the object of all cooking to render raw material more 
 palatable and more nutritious, and therefore more digestible. The 
 cooking of cocoa and chocolate is no exception to this rule. Cer- 
 tain extractive principles are soluble only in water which has 
 reached the boiling-point ; and the starch, which the seed contains, 
 is swollen only at this temperature. 
 
 Chocolate or cocoa is not properly cooked by having boiling 
 water poured over it. It is true that as the whole powder is in 
 suspension and is swallowed, its food material can be assimilated 
 as it is when the prepared chocolate is eaten raw ; but in order to 
 bring out the full, fine flavor and to secure the most complete 
 digestibility, the preparation, whatever it be, should be subjected to 
 the boiling-point for a few minutes. In this all connoisseurs are 
 agreed. 
 
RECEIPTS. 
 
 BY MISS PARLOA. 
 
 PLAIN CHOCOLATE. 
 
 For six people, use one quart of milk, two ounces of W. Baker & Co.'s 
 No. i chocolate, one tablespoonful of corn-starch, three tablespoonfuls of 
 sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of hot water. 
 
 Mix the corn-starch with one gill of the milk. Put the remainder of the 
 milk on to heat in the double-boiler. When the milk comes to the boiling- 
 point stir in the corn-starch, and cook for ten minutes. Have the choco- 
 late cut in fine bits and put it in a small iron or granite-ware pan ; add the 
 sugar and water, and place the pan over a hot fire. Stir constantly until 
 the mixture is smooth and glossy. Add this to the hot milk and beat the 
 mixture with a whisk until it is frothy. Or the chocolate may be poured 
 back and forth from the boiler to a pitcher, holding high the vessel from 
 which you pour. This will give a thick froth. Serve at once. 
 
 If you prefer not to have the chocolate thick, omit the corn-starch. 
 
 CHOCOLATE MADE WITH CONDENSED MILK. 
 
 Follow the rule for plain chocolate, substituting water for the milk, and 
 adding three tablespoonfuls of condensed milk when the chocolate is 
 added. 
 
 CHOCOLATE; VIENNA STYLE. 
 
 Use four ounces of vanilla chocolate, one quart of milk, three table- 
 spoonfuls of hot water, and one tablespoonful of sugar. 
 
 Cut the chocolate in fine bits. Put the milk on the stove in the double- 
 boiler, and when it has been heated to the boiling-point, put the chocolate, 
 
38 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT. 
 
 sugar, and water in a small iron or granite-ware pan and stir over a hot fire 
 until smooth and glossy. Stir this mixture into the hot milk, and beat well 
 with a whisk. Serve at once, putting a tablespoonful of whipped cream in 
 each cup and then filling up with the chocolate. 
 
 The plain chocolate may be used instead of the vanilla, but in that case 
 use a teaspoonful of vanilla extract and three generous tablespooniuls of 
 sugar instead of one. 
 
 BREAKFAST COCOA. 
 
 Breakfast cocoa is powdered so fine that it can be dissolved by pouring 
 boiling water on it. For this reason it is often prepared at the table. A 
 small teaspoonful of the powder is put in the cup with a teaspoonful of 
 sugar ; on this is poured two-thirds of a cupful of boiling water, and milk 
 or cream is added to suit the individual taste. This is very convenient ; 
 but cocoa is not nearly so good when prepared in this manner as when it 
 is boiled. 
 
 For six cupfuls of cocoa use two tablespoonfuls of the powder, two 
 tablespoonfuls of sugar, half a pint of boiling water, and a pint and a half 
 of milk. Put the milk on the stove in the double-boiler. Put the cocoa 
 and sugar in a saucepan and gradually pour the hot water upon them, stirring 
 all the time. Place the saucepan on the fire and stir until the contents boil. 
 Let this mixture boil for five minutes ; then add the boiling milk, and serve. 
 
 A gill of cream is a great addition to this cocoa. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CAKE. 
 
 For two sheets of cake use three ounces of W. Baker & Co.'s No. i 
 chocolate, three eggs, one cupful and three-fourths of sifted pastry flour, one 
 cupful and three-fourths of sugar, half a cupful of butter, half a cupful of 
 milk, half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, one teaspoonful and a half of 
 baking powder. 
 
 Grate the chocolate. Beat the butter to a cream and gradually beat in 
 the sugar. Beat in the milk and vanilla, then the eggs (already well 
 beaten) , next the chocolate, and finally the flour, in which the baking pow- 
 der should be mixed. Pour into two well-buttered shallow cake-pans. Bake 
 for twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Frost or not, as you like. 
 
RECEIPTS. 39 
 
 VANILLA FROSTING. 
 
 Break the white of one large egg into a bowl, and gradually beat into it 
 one cupful of confectioner's sugar. Beat for three minutes, add half a 
 teaspoonful of vanilla extract, and spread thinly on the cakes. 
 
 CHOCOLATE ICING. 
 
 Make a vanilla icing and add one tablespoonful of cold water to it. 
 Scrape fine one ounce of No. i chocolate and put it in a small iron or 
 granite-ware saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of confectioner's sugar and 
 one tablespoonful of hot water. Stir over a hot fire until smooth and 
 glossy, then add another tablespoonful of hot water. Stir the dissolved 
 chocolate into the vanilla icing. 
 
 CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM. 
 
 For about two quarts and a half of cream use a pint and a half of milk, 
 a quart of thin cream, two cupfuls of sugar, two ounces of No. i chocolate, 
 two eggs, and two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour. 
 
 Put the milk on to boil in the double-boiler. Put the flour and one 
 cupful of the sugar in a bowl ; add the eggs, and beat the mixture until 
 light. Stir this into the boiling milk and cook for twenty minutes, stirring 
 often. 
 
 Scrape the chocolate and put it in a small saucepan. Add four table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar (which should be taken from the second cupful) and two 
 tablespoonfuls of hot water. Stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy. 
 Add this to the cooking mixture. 
 
 When the preparation has cooked for twenty minutes take it from the 
 fire and add the remainder of the sugar and the cream, which should be 
 gradually beaten into the hot mixture. Set away to cool, and when cold, 
 freeze. 
 
 CHOCOLATE PUDDING. 
 
 For a small pudding use one pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls and a 
 half of corn-starch, one ounce of chocolate, two eggs, five tablespoonfuls 
 
40 THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT. 
 
 of powdered sugar, one-fourth ot a teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoon- 
 ful of vanilla extract. 
 
 Mix the corn- starch with one gill of the milk. Put the remainder of 
 the milk on to boil in the double-boiler. Scrape the chocolate. When the 
 milk boils, add the corn-starch, salt, and chocolate, and cook for ten minutes. 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs with three tablespoonfuls of the sugar. Pour 
 the hot mixture on this and beat well. Turn into a pudding-dish that will 
 hold about a quart, and bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and gradually beat in the 
 remaining two tablespoonfuls of sugar and the vanilla. Spread this on the 
 pudding and return to the oven. Cook for fifteen minutes longer, but with 
 the oven-door open. Serve either cold or hot. 
 
 BAVARIAN CHOCOLATE CREAM. 
 
 For one large mould of cream, use half a package of gelatine, one gill 
 of milk, two quarts of whipped cream, one gill of sugar, and one ounce of 
 chocolate. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours. Whip and drain 
 the cream, scrape the chocolate, and put the milk on to boil. Put the 
 chocolate, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one of hot water, in a small 
 saucepan, and stir on a hot fire until smooth and glossy. Stir this into the 
 hot milk. Now add the soaked gelatine and the remainder of the sugar. 
 Strain this mixture into a basin that will hold two quarts or more. Place 
 the basin in a pan of ice-water and stir until the mixture is cold, when it 
 will begin to thicken. Instantly begin to stir in the whipped cream, adding 
 half the amount at first. When all the cream has been added, dip the 
 mould in cold water and then turn the cream into it. Place in the ice- 
 chest for an hour or more. 
 
 At serving-time dip the mould in tepid water. See that the cream will 
 come from the sides of the mould, and turn out on a flat dish. Serve with 
 whipped cream. 
 
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