DP 30E Gr35 U6 UC-NRLF CO o o P^C 27IQ? "^ PORTS of the WORLD GIBRALTAR Published by BUREAU OF NAVIGATION under authority of the Secretary of the Navy 11 1" I i GIFT Foreword HAT the officers and enlisted men of the U. S. Navy may Thave the latest available information on the ports of the world, the Bureau of Navigation, Sixth Division, is preparing individual guidebooks on one hundred of these ports. To supplement these guidebooks, illus- trated lectures on these same ports are being pre- pared. In addition to information about each city and its surroundings, certain details of practical interest to the sightseer have been included. However, as traffic schedules, money exchange, etc., are constantly changing, these details should be carefully checked upon arrival in port. Grateful acknowledgment is made to the National Geographic Society for their suggestions, both as to editorial policy and inter- esting details concerning Gibraltar and its environs. 458676 Five INDEX Page Introduction 9 Gibraltar — Past and Present 11 Gibraltar and the Great War 13 Plan of City and Its Environs 14 The Galleries 15 The Moorish Castle 15 Alameda Gardens = 16 The Barracks of Gibraltar 16 The Market 17 The Exchange and Library 17 The Garrison Library 18 The Assembly Rooms 18 Recreational Facilities 18 Theatre Royal 18 The Rock and Its Environs 18 The Caves 19 The Monkeys .... 20 Europa Point 21 The Harbor 21 Algeciras 21 Page Cadiz, the Oldest Town in Spain 23 The Capital of Morocco 24 Granada and the Alhambra 27 Seville 28 City of Malaga 29 Gibraltar's Neighboring Towns 30 Means of Travel 30 Hunting in Spain . 31 Hunting in Morocco 32 Centers of Information 33 Cabs 33 Hotels 33 Restaurants and Coffee Houses 34 Money 34 Spanish 34 English 34 Postage . 35 Churches . 35 Climate 35 Memoranda 36 Seven Introduction N THE borderland between Occident and Orient — where East meets West and the civilization of to-day is entwined with the quaint customs and superstitions of a veiled yesterday — there stands a towering mass of gray rock, stern and forbidding, Gibraltar — Key of the Mediterranean — "abode of romance." The eyes of seafaring men have turned toward Gibraltar since the earliest days of history, when the earth was believed to be flat, and men sailed their ships in fear and trembling, apprehensive lest they tumble over the edge of the world. Imaginative ancients, making comparisons, aptly applied the term "Pillars of Hercules" to Gibraltar and the Promontory Abyla, on the IMorocco side of the narrow strait. It was at Gibraltar where the adventurous sailors of ancient Phoenicia furled the sails of their cockleshell ships and anchored for awhile to build silver columns, declaring the straits to be the "limits of navigation." And it was at Palos, a few miles west of Gibraltar, where Columbus mobilized his tiny fleet of three ships and set forth with brave hopes, wdthal swiftly beating heart, on the voyage which was to result in the discovery of a new world. Since days of old there have been many bitter struggles for possession of Gibraltar, renowned as one of the most important strategic fortresses in the world. Nine The blood of Moors and Spaniards and French and British was spilled, and great fleets were battered and sunk, and sailors and soldiers rose to immortal fame in the wars which raged through the centuries for the mastery of Gibraltar. England, largely because of the impetuous daring of Nelson, who secured this important strategic position for his country — but lost his life in the under- taking — has occupied Gibraltar since 1704. And the story of England's struggle for Gibraltar, the effect its possession has had on Britain's imperial policy and the expansion of her trade, reads like an interesting and absorbing novel. Tourist travel to the inland places of interest in Gibraltar has been resumed since the signing of the armistice. Travelers are also given an opportunity to make side trips to Spain and to the Barbary States, where Decatur sailed with his warships and terrified into submission the pirates who had been preying on American merchantmen and endeavoring to exact tribute from the American people. And the following pages tell something of life and customs and people and places in Gibraltar and Morocco and neighboring territories — ^whose shores are perpetually kissed by the restless blue waters of the Mediterranean, and whose mode of living is a bizarre combination of East and West. Here they meet! And the old, old verse of Kipling's can never, in this day, be applied to this portion of the Mediterranean — " For East is East and West is West, And ne'er the twain shall meet." Ten GIBRALTAR GIBRALTAR PAST AND PRESENT IBRALTAR is perhaps the greatest natural beacon of navigation. Its rocky promontory juts into the sea at the Atlantic entrance to the Mediterranean. The Gibraltar peninsula runs almost due north and south, and is about three miles long and three-quarters of a mile across at the widest part. It is connected with the mainland of Spain by a sandy isthmus two miles long. The central part of the isthmus is known as the Neutral Zone, at the southern end of which are gates marking the frontier of the British possessions. The gates at the northern end open upon Spanish territory. On account of its great strategic value, Gibraltar has undergone many sieges. It has been held in turn by the Moors, the Spanish, and the British. Over the doors of the shop and on street corners are English names, giving the effect of a small British town. Close by, however, are shops of the Oriental type, suggesting the bazaars of Damascus and Cairo. -<> A typical scene in Waterport Street The curious mixture of .\frican and East Indian people, thronging the streets and crowding the low doorways of the shops, produce an Oriental atmosphere. Eleven GIBRALTAR Gibraltar was the gateway through which the Moors entered vSpain from Northern Africa. And after 711 a. d. the Rock was named Jabel-al-Tarik (Hill of Tarik) after the Arab chief Tarikibn Ziad, who built a fortress on the promontory, part of which still exists. The modem name of Gibraltar is derived from the Arabian term, Jabel-al- Tarik. In the fourteenth century it was taken by the King of Castile, but it was soon recaptured by the Moors, and remained in their possession until the latter part of the fifteenth century, shortly before Columbus set forth on his voyage of discovery. A few years later the Duke of Medina Sidonia ob- tained possession, and it was a number of years before it became a Castillian posses- sion once more. The Spaniards had by this time so strongly fortified it, however, that it easily withstood the Barbary Pirates. Speckel of Strassburg, a German engineer, is responsible for the first heavy and modem fortifications. Early in the War of the Spanish Succes- sion, known in the American Colonies as Queen Anne's War, the Spaniards surren- dered the fortress to the British Admiral Rooke. From October, 1704, until April, Twelve •-■si J. Entering the Harbor of Gibraltar 1705, it was unsuccessfully besieged by the Spaniards, and in 171 3 it became a British possession by the Peace of Utrecht. During the last 200 years nothing has been omitted by the British to render the for- GIBRALTAR tress impregnable. Spain has made many efforts to regain possession of the great strong- hold and once offered $10,000,000 for it. Trafalgar is a low promontory at the western entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar. On October 21, 1805, Lord Nelson won one of the greatest naval battles of history over the combined fleets of France and Spain, which consisted of 33 ships. Lord Nelson had only 27. The British fleet fell on the rear of the allied fleet, and after a terrible contest, in which the English admiral lost his life, the British completely disorganized the hostile fleet. Eighteen ships were cap- tured and Napoleon's naval power was gone forever. GIBRALTAR AND THE GREAT WAR N the Great War Gibraltar was the base of 41 ships and 9 subchasers of the United States Navy. The U. S. S. Sacramento ar- rived in Gibraltar in 191 7 followed by the Birming- ham , Chester, Nashville, Cas- tine,Machias, Marietta, and Paducah, 6 Coast Guard cutters, 9 yachts, and 5 destroyersv .\ near view of Gibraltar Rear Admiral Niblack, U. S. N., com- manded the United States naval forces bas- ing on Gibraltar from November, 191 7, to January 10, 191 9, relieving Rear Admiral H. B. Wilson, U. S. N., who had been in command since the early part of the war. The United States naval base was in the British seaplane shed on the waterfront, and Thirteen GIBRALTAR the headquarters were in the Tower Build- ing at His Majesty's dockyard, where the interallied commanders met every morn- ing to arrange the escort of convoys. The naval base hospital was at Glen Rocky, near the British military hospital. The enlisted men's Y. M. C. A. and restau- rant were situated at No. 7 College Lane. There was an average of 315 officers and 4,660 enlisted men attached to the ships and base. Enlisted men attached to the base were billeted in the Windmill Hill Barracks behind the signal station. Public moving pictures, exhibiting Amer- ican films, as well as concerts by the flag- ship band, were given in the Alameda (see page 16). The ships' baseball teams played a league championship on the football field near the seaplane shed. Vice Admiral H. vS. Grant, R. N., commanding His Majesty's dockyard at Gibraltar, was senior allied officer present. PLAN OF CITY AND ITS ENVIRONS The Bay of Gibraltar is in the form of a horseshoe, 7 miles long and 5 miles wide. The harbor is sheltered to the west and south by breakwaters, and by the Rock to Fourteen n<.- the east. The eastern side of the Rock is an inaccessible cliff, bare of vegetation, forming a series of rugged precipices. The town of Gibraltar can be roughly divided into two parts — North Town and South Town. North Town is a commercial district, and is by far the more important. It has two parallel streets, Main Street and Irish-Town Street. Back of these on the slope of the hill the houses are built tier on tier. South Town, or Rosia, is strictly a residential district, although it accommo- dates the Admiralty quarters and stores. The streets are dark and narrow, but clean. The one business thoroughfare is Main Street, which runs the length of the town. This street includes three former streets — Waterport, Church, and Southport. Buropa Main Road begins at Prince Ed- ward's Gate at the northeast corner of the Alameda Gardens (see page 16), extending southward to a large lighthouse at the ex- tremity of the peninsula. Just outside the south gate is the Traf- algar Cemetery, the resting place of many who fell in Nelson's great battle. The modern cemetery, where our American dead are interred, is situated on the North Front. GIBRALTAR The population of Gibraltar is made up to a great extent of those attached to the military and naval service. The remainder consists of Spaniards and a few orientals. English is spoken throughout the city and the environs. THE GALLERIES "^^jjHE so-called "Galleries" are the great sight of Gibraltar. They consist of a series of passages tunneled through the strata on the northern side of the Rock. There are no other mili- tary excavations in the world that equal these "Galleries," which comprise two ranges or tiers — the upper or Windsor, and the lower or Union. These can be reached .from Main Street by Bell Lane (opposite the post office), and by stairs to the artillery barracks. The Union Galleries are open to the public from Bunrise to sunset, but no more than two parties of fifteen each will be taken through the galleries at any time. Persons wishing to visit them must enter their names in the book kept by the Moorish Castle Guard. ^'^■L The old Moorish Castle THE MOORISH CASTLE Above the artillery barracks are the re- mains of a Moorish Castle built in 742 a. d., the oldest building in Gibraltar. As a part of this castle is used for a prison, it can only be visited by special permit. If a pass is obtainable, however, it is well worth the visi- tor's attention, as the old harem and state apartments are among the most interesting bits of antiquity in this part of the world. Fifteen GIBRALTAR ALAMEDA GARDENS HE Alameda Gardens are beautifully situated be- tween the British and Spanish towns. Luxuriant and tropical vegetation produces a horticultural effect which would be hard to surpass. Geraniums lo feet in height and heliotrope in profusion add beauty to the scene and fill the air with fragrance. Pepper, coffee, and fig trees flourish here also. A rustic bridge, fantastic floral designs, and a whale jaw arch contribute to the landscape gardening. Toward evening the military band plays here and the gardens become the center of the social activity of Gibraltar. THE BARRACKS OF GIBRALTAR The military barracks, naval hospital, and the town of Rosia are south of the Alameda Gardens. Gibraltar is the scene of many and spacious barracks, among which are the Casemates, Town Range, St. Jago's, and| Sixteen Picturesque walk in Alameda Gardens the Moorish Castle. The barracks of Wel- lington Front, Kings Bastion, and Orange Bastion are no longer occupied by troops, but are used as storehouses. On Gunners' Parade there is a barracks building for GIBRALTAR British ofFiccrs. In the South District are. South Barracks, Rosia Barracks, and Buropa Barracks. THE MARKET -"iN the 17th of April, 1876, the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) laid the comer stone of the present market, which is commodious and well man- aged. Meat is imported from Galicia, Southern Spain, and Morocco — the better grades from Australia. From Morocco also come im- mense quantities of poultry and eggs, the former transported in curious cylindrical baskets or tubes of cane work, the ends of which are secured by cord nettings. THE EXCHANGE AND LIBRARY Commercial Square is the only commer- cial building in Gibraltar. It is operated by an exchange committee, elected annually from among the inhabitants; it was founded by voluntary subscriptions in 181 7 and was publicly opened in August, 1818. Itcontains auction rooms, offices, and a commercial II An entertainment in the Center Market library and reading room, in which travelers (especially those interested in commerce) are always welcome. Seventeen GIBRALTAR THE GARRISON LIBRARY HE garrison library on Gov- ernor's Parade is the finest institution of its kind in any of the EngHsh possessions. Founded in 1 793 by Colonel Drinkwater, it grew so rap- idly and proved itself so val- uable that the great English statesman, William Pitt, financed the erection of the present building, which was completed in 1804. The library contains at the present time nearly 40,000 volumes. THE ASSEMBLY ROOMS The Assembly Rooms, erected in 1884, contain a ballroom, a movable stage for theatrical performances and concerts, a res- taurant with necessary offices and kitchen. A rain-water tank of 40,000 gallons capacity surmounts the building. The east wing con- tains the lodge rooms of the Freemasons of Gibraltar, by whom the enterprise was begun. RECREATIONAL FACILITIES During the war Football Field No. i (built on reclaimed ground on the west shore) was in constant use by the American bluejackets. Eighteen This has become British property once more, however. On North Front, between Devil's Tower Road and the Race Course, there is a large athletic field used for almost every type of game. Permission to use this field must be obtained through the Governor. Swimming beaches may be found at Rosia on the Atlantic side of the Peninsula. THEATRE ROYAL The Theatre Royal has been almost entirely rebuilt and remodeled. It accommo- dates about 1,000 persons and is one of the chief places of entertainment in Gibraltar. THE ROCK AND ITS ENVIRONS A road (lower than the one to Alameda Gardens) skirting the great dry docks, naval station, and barracks, leads to a battery of big guns. A fine view of Africa and the Mediterranean can be obtained near the light- house on Europa Point. As the west side of the Rock descends sheer to the sea, it has been impossible to con- struct a roadway, and one must pass through the town again in order to reach the north side. On the road the visitor passes a Jewish cemetery with its flat tombstones. Above GIBRALTAR can be seen the openings to the rock galler- ies, and an occasional gun. Rounding the point one sees the little fish- ing village of Genoese in its sheltered cove. Above it are steep rocks formed by cement into a reservoir which contains rain vv^ater. The water supply system of Gibraltar, com- posed of watersheds on the Rock, and tun- nels and reservoirs within the Rock itself is a wonderful piece of engineering. The rain water supplied to the town and to ships for drinking purposes is collected on catchment areas in the east and west side of the upper part of tlie Rock. The quality of the drink- ing water supplied by these reservoirs is excel- lent and no chemical or mechanical treatment is found necessary. THE CAVES ^} UE to the limestone formation of the Rock, there are many caves — the largest of which is St. Michael's. It is i ,000 feet above sea level, and can be entered only through a small opening. Within is a lofty hall, 250 feet long, 90 feet wide, and 70 feet high. vStalactites produce the impression of a Gothic cathedral. The Rock from Spanish territory Leading from this large hall are numerous small caves, in which fossil remains have been found. Great labor and a large amount of money have been expended in Nineteen GIBRALTAR attempting to penetrate all of these caves, but up to the present time many of the minor ones have remained unexplored. THE MONKEYS HE monkeys and apes living in caves in the Rock are among the chief diversions of the place. These ani- mals are carefully pro- tected by law ; they are fed by the British Army, and are under the protection of an oflficer. Like the storks in Holland and the ibis in Egypt, they enjoy a complete immunity from molestation. They may be seen on the western face of the Rock, par- ticularly when an east wind is blowing. They live chiefly upon food given them by the sol- diers, the sweet roots of the palmetto trees, the products of gardens and orchards of the vicinity and even the pantries of the resi- dences. It is common practice for house- keepers to screen their windows against them. These apes are of African species. It is uncertain as to how they reached Twenty The Monkey caves Spanish side of the Mediterranean, but it is believed that they have inhabited the GIBRALTAR Rock for many centuries, taking tip their abode here when the peninsula was still connected with the African coast. EUROPA POINT UROPA Point (Ancient lycon) fonns the southern end of the Rock of Gibral- tar, presenting a front run- ning northwest and south- east 600 yards. At the extremity of the point, on a cliff 98 feet high, is Vic- toria Tower, 61 feet in height. The light on this tower is visible for 18 miles. THE HARBOR The harbor of Gibraltar is protected by three breakwaters, or moles — New or vSouth Mole, North Mole or Old Mole, and Commer- cial or Detached Mole. Old Mole was con- structed in the fourteenth century. The docks of the New Mole are used by the British and foreign navies. The Waterport Wharf is the general landing place for pas- senger and merchant vessels. Looking across the Bay from Gibraltar to Algeciras Gibraltar is a free port. The exports include wool, lead, and copper. Cottons, woolens, and wines are imported. ALGECIRAS Northwest of Gibraltar just across the bay is Algeciras. vSteamers ply between the two several times a day. The fare is 2^ pesetas (see page 34) round trip, a half hour being required for the run. Tirenty-One GIBRALTAR The little Spanish city of Algeciras was brought into the limelight in 1906 through the international conference held there for the consideration of Moroccan affairs. It is believed that the seeds of the Great War were sown in this Algeciras Conference. I'^rance, Germany, Austria-Himgary, Bel- gium, Spain, Great Britain, the Nether- lands, Portugal, Russia, Sweden, and the United vStates were represented. In this conference the control over ]\Iorocco de- sired by Germany went to F" ranee. It is said that this decision was largely due to the influence of Great Britain, and that, as a result, the Kaiser swore vengeance against the nation that had brought about the frus- tration of his plans. Austria was the only nation that supported Germany in the Alge- ciras Conference. During the summer season Algeciras is a popular watering place. The principal hotel is the Reina Cristina near the south end of the pier. Rates as recently quoted are 10 and 15 pesetas per day, European plan; dinner, 8 pesetas; luncheon, 5 pesetas Twenty- Two Dignity in rags and breakfast, 2 pesetas. There are several restaurants in the principal square. The train schedule to Madrid, Seville, and Cadiz can be ol)tained from the hotel in Algeciras, as it is from here that connections with most of the inland points are made. GIBRALTAR CADIZ. THE OLDEST TOWN IN SPAIN -— ^ j[ ROM Algeciras it is possible ^■'' to take a train, a motor bus, or one of the daily steamers to Cadiz, the nearest large town in Spain. The train trip occupies 1 2 hours. The population of Cadiz to-day is about 67,000. It is the oldest city in Spain — was celebrat- ing its 400th anniversary when Rome was founded. Here Hamilcar and Hannibal, the great Carthaginian generals, equipped their armies for their attempt to overthrow Rome in the days of Fabius Maximus two centuries before the Christian era. It was from here also that many of the mariners who first explored America sailed. Cadiz enjoyed her greatest era of pros- perity immediately after the discovery of America, as she then became the chief port for the New World traffic. Although its importance began to wane when Spain's colonial possessions began to diminish, its commerce reached low-water mark follow- ing the destruction of Spanish trade with Cuba and Porto Rico as a result of the Spanish-American War. A rise in beef The city is remarkable for its elegance and cleanliness. A famous WTiter has said that the most fitting description of the port is the word "white" written with a white pencil on blue paper. The houses are cov- ered with frequent coats of whitewash, so that from a distance they seem to be made Twenty-Three GIBRALTAR of plaster of Paris. Hundreds of little towers, rising above the flat roofed houses, produce the impression of minarets against the oriental skyline. The principal street of Cadiz is Calle de Duque de Teutan which runs southeast from the Plaza de la Constitucion. Here and on the Calle Columela are the best shops of the city. Cadiz is celebrated for its guitars, castanets, and fans. The best view of the town and of the ocean is to be had from the Torre del Virgia, a watchtower from which all passing ships are signalled. It is in the center of the town on the Calle Sacremento and may be visited upon application. THE CAPITAL OF MOROCCO T is only a short trip of 32 miles by steamer from Gibraltar to Tangier, the Moroccan capital, where one may get a real glimpse of oriental life. Steamers sail from this port on Tuesdays, Thurs- days, and Saturdays at 11.00 a. m. The larger steamers, such as those of the Royal Twenty-Four IB 1 T^^—-JSaggM ■ H ■ 1 ^^s9IH ^ 3 J^te^N^ ^ ^H f • " w ^ ^#^ ^ ^^F" H ' £^M^ 9 ». ^"^ - "^"j l^P* «jii ^^-^^ V ^ T) ^^ «■ ,>,:,. P^>,jJ|j MH^^Mmi ^-, , --^ ^^ .-«--*' ^ >^ J Morrocan misery Mail Line, sail once a week. Arrangements are easily made for a special trip. Tangier is picturesquely situated on the hilly side of the Bay of Tangier. Here one finds perhaps a more interesting intermin- gling of European and oriental customs and manners than in any other port in the world. GIBRALTAR The major portion of the population is Mohammedan. Of the remaining, about one-half are Moroccan Jews; the others are chiefly Spaniards. Most of the people seen on the streets are men. Women of the better class never go out except on Fridays, when they visit other women, and on a cer- tain day every year when they go to the mosque. Tangier is surrounded by an old wall with picturesque gates, and surmounted at internals by towers. The kasba, or citadel, rises above the city proper. The narrow, uneven streets in the old part of the town present a vivid scene of oriental life. The noisy crowds reveal a great variety of types. The solemn Moors, stalking along in brilliant burums, yellow slippers, bright turbans or fezes, are elbowed by Jews in black caftans and fezes. The houses are of the Spanish type with interior courts. The doorway of a Moorish house is protected merely by a curtain; when the owner wishes privacy he leaves a slipper outside as a sign that his curtain must not be raised. Most of the streets are impassible for wheeled vehicles; mules serv^e as beasts of l(< ^ f> i:. . ,.-^..-,-^ •«- -.■^'»i*'i=ii-gj* . k^-:^ The Fort and Town of Tangier from the J city burden; their approach is heralded by cries of "balek" (look out). The IMain Street of Tangier begins just beyond the Customhouse, winding up the hill to the New Market on the west and to the Socco de Barra (the outer market) on the southeast. It ends at the Square of the Blacksmiths. The chief sights of Tangier may be seen on Main Street, in the markets, and about the kasba, or citadel. Sunday and Thurs- day are market days, when groups of inter- ested onlookers crowd about the jugglers Twenty-Five GIBRALTAR and snake charmers; the ever-present beg- gars pass through soliciting alms, and above the ordinary noises can be heard the din of the fakirs and the calls of the market men. Indeed, the only place where crowding and tumult cease is at the very center of the market where the patron saint is enthroned in the sanctuary. Beyond the Great Mosque and the small Socco (inner market) is the Square of the Blacksmiths. The North Gate opens on Marshan Road leading to the kasba or citadel. This was built in the fifteenth century. Standing on the highest point of the town, the citadel commands a wonderful view of the Bay and the Strait of Gibraltar. Among its fine Moorish buildings are the Palace of the Sultan, a mosque, a prison, the treasury, and a garden. From the east- ern gate of the kasba a footpath descends to the town ; the view en route is one of the great sights of Tangier. Guides may be secured at all the hotels in Tangier at from 5 to lo pesetas a day. Besides pointing out the most important places, they will direct travelers to the best cafds and coffeehouses. Twenty-Six Homes and public buildings — Tangier The Cecil Hotel, the Continental Hotel, and the Pension de France are patronized by the English and Americans. An excellent bathing beach and com- modious bathhouses will be found on the Plaza Grande. Strangers should not attempt to enter mosques or Mohammedan GIBRALTAR cemeteries unless authorized to do so. This caution should be strictly obser\'ed. GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA __; HE trip to Granada and the " Alhambra is usually made in about ii hours from Algeciras or from Malaga by train. Granada and Granada's jewel, the Alhambra, must be seen to be fully appre- ciated. Dr. James H. Gore says of this fortified palace-citadel of the Moorish kings of Granada, "With a wealth of profuseness in its resplendent decorations and daring caprices in Moorish and Saracenic archi- tecture, we seem to be transferred to the glories of Bagdad and to behold a realization of the Arabian Nights." "See Naples and die" has long been a popular saying. "See Spain and under- stand the accomplishments of the world" might be a fitting expression for the traveler of to-day. A visit to Granada should, if possible, be preceded by reading a little Spanish history. Irv^ng's "Tales of the Alhambra," or Pres- The Socco de Barra or Center Market — Tangier cott's "Ferdinand and Isabella" would not only prove entertaining but would help the reader understand the IMoorish and Spanish atmosphere more thorouglily. In showing travelers through the various halls and courts of the Alhambra, the guides usually make the following tour: Puerta de los Garros, across the Great Square to the modern entrance; Patio of the Fishpond; Court of the Lions; Hall of the Abercer- ranges; Hall of Tribune; Hall of Two Sis- Twenty-Seven GIBRALTAR ters; Boudoir of the Sultana Lindaraxa, overlooking an orange garden; Moorish Baths; Hall of the Camas; Hall of the Am- bassador; Hall of the Palace of the Wailies; Ancient Chapel; Palace of Charles the Fifth. Then the party will cross the great square to the Vela or Watchtower, whence there is a magnificent prospect of the plain of Granada. The "Last Sigh of the Moor" is another interesting feature of the Alhambra. Note. — ^There are 5,000 gypsies living in rock caves at Granada. A gypsy concert may often be arranged at the hotels. SEVILLE BVILLE, located about 80 miles northeast of Cadiz, may be reached by boat or train from Gibraltar via Cadiz in about 12 hours. Seville was a place of great importance during the later years of Roman dominion; it was the birthplace of three of Rome's greatest emperors — ^Hadrian, Tra- jan, and Theodosius. It became the capital of southern Spain during the time when the Vandals and the Goths held sway. Under] Twenty-Eight A general view of Tanj;ier the Arabs, in the eighth century, it reached a population of 400,000. It was one of the first points to which Columbus went seeking Spanish aid for his proposed voyage of dis- covery, and was one of the first cities to profit commercially by the opening of trade with the new world. One of the largest and noblest cathedrals in the world is in Seville. It contains the monument to Christopher Columbus, whose remains were brought from Havana in 1899. The magnificent tower was erected by the GIBRALTAR Moors as an observatory and later con- verted into a bell tower by the Spaniards, who did not know of its real purpose. Among the many points of interest in this beautiful old city are the Plaza de Torros, the scene of many Spanish bull fights where 1 2,000 spectators can be accom- modated, and the Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold) ; the Palace of San Telmo and the great tobacco factory employing thousands of girls are also well worth seeing. The Y. M. C. A. is situated at St. Augustine II. The secretary is Pastor Bmilio Carreho. CITY OF MALAGA HIS important city is situ- ated at the head of Malaga Bay, 60 miles east of Gibraltar, and is built close to the sea at the foot of high mountains. The chief buildings are the Cathe- dral, Bishop's Palace, sev- a college of medicine and customhouse. The building most worthy of notice is the cathedral with a spire rising 270 feet above the bay. The picturesque ruins of Malaga's ancient forti eral churches, surgery, and a P^ A glimpse of Granada, Spain, northwest from Generalife lications and castles, flanked by lofty mountains, can be seen at a distance of about 25 miles. The castle standing on the summit of Monte de Gibralfaro, 555 feet high, may be recognized by its large square Twenty-Nine GIBRALTAR tower and white embattled walls. The cathedral clock tower is also a conspicuous beacon. Malaga is easily reached from Gibraltar by boat or by rail from Algeciras in about 2X hours. It is also a point of communi- cation with every part of Spain. GIBRALTAR'S NEIGHBORING TOWNS XCELLENT opportunities to visit Spanish cities and the lesser towns are afforded by sailboat or automobile trips from Gi- braltar and Algeciras. Some of these neighboring towns are : Castellar, popu- lation 1,450; Jimena, population 9,029; Los Barrios, population 6,581 ; Sa Rouque, popu- lation 10,165; and Tarifa, population 12,522. MEANS OF TRAVEL Gibraltar has a good steamship service to the nearby ports. Steamers leave daily for Tangier; there are two daily steamers to Algeciras. There is a railroad from Alge- ciras to the central Spanish cities. The rail line from Algeciras joins the main line from Thirty The Court of the Myrtles in Alhambra, Granada, Spain Malaga to Bobadilla. From here there is a railroad to Madrid, Seville, and Cadiz. From ]\Ialaga there is also a branch line to Granada; from Algeciras there is- a line to Cadiz and Seville. A great saving can GIBRALTAR be effected by buying kilometer traveling coupons at the Gibraltar booking office. Before the railroad connections with Cadiz were completed in the seventies, communication between the Rock and interior points was by horseback and by pack trains. Of greater importance than the opening of this road was the opening of the Algeciras-Bobadilla Railway in 1890. Due to these improvements innumerable places in Spain are now within easy reach of the traveler, although horses and donkeys are still used at certain points along the line. HUNTING IN SPAIN OT many years ago the vicinity of Gibraltar was open to every sportsman. To-day, however, the hunter is confronted al- most everywhere by the sign "Cote" (preser\'e) or "Acote y Cerrodo" (pre- ser\^ed and enclosed). Licenses to hunt in Spain may be secured from the Civil Governor at Cadiz; the Spanish Consul at Gibraltar can also arrange these licenses. The usual license obtained by people in i>\ Ornamented doorway to the Court of Lions, Albanibra, Granada, Spain Gibraltar is a second-class license, costing 30 pesetas. It is often necessary to obtain a written permit from the owner of the land on which one wishes to hunt. Thirty-One GIBRALTAR The Spanish hunters have always guard- ed carefully the mountain regions where the ibex, roe deer, and wild bear abound, but the marshes and flooded ground frequented by British sportsmen were often disregarded by them. The best hunting seasons can not always be estimated with accuracy, as they vary with the rainy and dry seasons. As many of the marshes have been closed, the people of Gibraltar find it necessary to look for game at some distance, often in the vicinity of Cadiz. The Gibraltar directory has full details of this subject. It suggests any respectable native of the Rock as a suitable guide for a hunting party. A man of this type will be of great advantage to the sportsman as an interpreter and to fur- nish necessary information about game laws, etc. Professional guides should be avoided. HUNTING IN MOROCCO Hunting in Morocco is more expensive than in Spain, since hunters must take tents with them. The sport is often excellent, however, and worth added expense. Trips are usually made on horseback with pack ani- mals. " By far the best way to organize an expedition into Morocco," says the Gibraltar Thirty- Two Directory, "is to contract with some one at Tangier to carry out all arrangements at so much a day, including dragoman, cook, muleteers, transport, tents, and camp equip- ment. The cost of such an expedition for two people should be approximately £2 (two pounds) or $10.00 a day each. For three people or more, it should be less in propor- tion, as the same cook and ser\'ants could be used in a slightly larger party. It is advisable to take a head 'dragoman' who speaks Moorish and Spanish." When traveling in Morocco it is always necessary to obtain from the authorities at Tangier a military escort whose presence is a sign to the tribesman that the party is under government protection. Of recent years it has been considered unwise for travelers to go far into the country. No large game except wild pigs is found in Morocco in the districts accessible to the ordinary traveler. Small game shooting, however, is remarkably good. Barbary partridge (a species closely allied to the European red-legged partridge) is found in extraordinary numbers. A very good plan is to engage a Spanish sportsman at Tangier to accompany the party. GIBRALTAR CENTERS OF INFORMATION NI^ORMATION regarding trips or other matters of interest to travelers may be obtained at the auto- mobile offices, south of the river in Algeciras, or from Thomas Cook & Sons, on Main Street, Gibraltar. Other centers of information in Gibraltar are the Assembly Rooms, the banks, and the American Consulate located on Prince Ed- ward Road. For 6d (six pence) a copy, the monthly official directory may be pur- chased at Headquarters Office, Governor's Lane, or at A. Beauland's, Main Street. CABS Cab stands will be found at Waterport Gate, Commercial Square, and Cathedral vSquare. It is well to arrange the price with the driver before starting. An omnibus leaves every 15 minutes from Commercial Square to the New Mole Parade. The fare is 2d (two pence), about four cents. ^ The bull ring at Seville, Spain HOTELS The three most important hotels in Gibraltar are the Hotel Bristol, Cathedral Square; Grand Hotel and the Hotel Cecil, Main Street. Thirty- Three GIBRALTAR RESTAURANTS AND COFFEE HOUSES The most widely known restaurants are : Cafe Universal on Church Street, La Victoria on Main Street, the Assembly Rooms at the Alameda, and the Royal Bar, opposite the Exchange. MONEY RITISH currency is legal tender in Gibraltar. Span- ish money is often used in the shops, but at the post office and other govern- mental departments Brit- ish currency alone is ac- cepted. The following table is prepared as a guide for tourists not familiar with the comparative values of Spanish, English, and American currency: SPANISH 5 centimos piece equals about 1 cent. 1 peseta equals about 20 cents. 5 peseta piece equals about $1. ENGLISH 1 penny equals about 2 cents. 1 shilling equals about 25 cents. 1 pound equals about $4.86V2. These values, however, fluctuate. Since the war, these coins have been below par Thirty-Four A forest of columns in the Moorish part of the Cathedral Mosque, Cordova, Spain In February, 1920, the English pound was worth $2,.6()% and the shilling iSX cents. Reliable information in such matters niio:ht be obtained at the American Consu- GIBRALTAR late or at either the Anglo-Egyptian Bank, Irish-Town Street; Moseley & Co., Main Street; Joseph Ferrary, 245 Main Street; or the Money Exchange Office in ]\Iain Street. POSTAGE The post office of Gibraltar is on Main Street. Letter postage to America is 5 cents; parcel-post packages are 12 cents for each pound. CHURCHES EGULAR services are held in the following churches: The Cathedral (Episcopal), King's Chapel (Episcopal), Windmill Chapel (Roman Catholic), St. Andrews Church (Presbyterian), Wesleyan Church (Metho- dist). The Jcv>ish synagogue is on Line Wall, behind Bomb House Lane. The Sal- vation Army headquarters are on Governor Street. CLIMATE Gibraltar enjoys a healthful and tem- perate climate. The winters are mild and 1 Pastimes of the gypsies — Spain delightful. The rainy season usually extends from October until the end of April. Dur- ing the remaining months rain seldom falls. The average annual rainfall from 1900 to 1 91 8 was 31.40 inches; the highest rainfall was recorded between 1914 and 1915, 57-8i inches; and the lowest was between 191 7 and 1 91 8, 20.22 inches. Thirlij-Five GIBRALTAR MEMORANDUM These blank pages should be used to note items of interest which you will want to remember Thirty-Six GIBRALTAR MEMORANDUM Thirty-Seven GIBRALTAR MEMORANDUM Thirty-Eight ''M c o o CO "D c o o ."^ o o > u -(— CO O s < or GO p o > LU or < z O CD LU "D c o E o q: o o 00 o •o LU X O "D b o O 00 ^ °^- -^ c 'oo O E > ^ c u ^ c2 C5) Q o ul < ^ _, "- < U -Q LLI >, ^ o LU C 00 c CO o o en < 'fi CO O -o C <3 eg c 'CD n "D O) -C o -Q E o o ^ ^ o ^ o - -Q "D O E n >v o E 00 . O) O -D "O §^ $ a CO C >- O Q: -q O I LU 00 Q LU CO CO < LU Q o i,.u CSJ -cr CM £0 -J o: d YD 0934