■3B7 Most historic Thoroughfare in the United States, and strategic eastern link in the National Old Trails Ocean-to-Ocean Highway j;l|' i CD O CD O Baltimore and Washington to Frederick, Hagerstown, Cumber- land and Frostburg, Maryland; Uniontown, Brownsville and Washington, Pennsylvania, and Wheeling, >^^est Virginia -:- Including a series of detailed maps, showing topography and principal points of historic interest By Robert Bruce PRICE ONE DOLLAR uitLU tiiiuuiiuuiUiiiiii J NATIONAL HIGHWAYS ASSOCIATION FOREWORD ARYLAND and Pennsylvania have so greatly improved their portions of the National Road that through travel over it is rapidly increasing. There is also a growing interest in historic places, so many of which are found along the route from Baltimore and Washington across the Alleghany Mountains to the Ohio River at Wheeling, and the junction of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers at St. Louis. The detailed maps on the following pages are intended not only as a correct guide to the route — which is very easily followed throughout — ^but also as a study in topography, especially through the mountain sections. In the present edition these maps are carried only from Washington and Balti- more to Wheeling; but it is expected to shortly ex- tend them to St. Louis, and ultimately over the Na- tional Old Trails route to the Pacific Coast. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author's most cordial thanks are due to G. G. Townsend, of Frostburg, Md., J. K. Lacock, of Cambridge, Mass., and Amity. Pa., Mrs. W.n. Hyde Talbott, of Rock- ville, Md., James Hadden, of Uniontown, Pa., and C. A. Robinson, of Wheeling, W. Va., for invaluable assistance on important details of this work; also to a number of others whose co-operation, though less extensive, is equally appreciated. :: :: ;: :: :; R. B. Clinton, Oneida County, N. Y. March 14, 1916. Wording of the first public document authorizing the beginning of work on the National Road. (See facsimile on opposite page) Thomas Jefferson, President of theUnited States of America. To all who shall see these presents, GREETING. Know Ye, That in pursuance of the Act .of Congress passed on the 29th of March, 1806, entitled "An Act to regulate the laying out and making a road from Cumberland in the State of Maryland to the State of Ohio" and reposing special Trust and Confidence in the Integrity, Diligence and Discretion of Eli Williams of Mary- land, 1 have nominated and by and with the advice and consent of the Senate do appoint him a Commissioner in connection with Thomas Moore of Maryland, and Joseph Kerr of Ohio, for the purposes expressed in the said Act; and to Have and to Hold the said office, with all the powers, privileges and Emoluments to the same of right appertaining, during the pleasure of the President of the United States for the time being. In Testimony Whereof, I have caused the Letters to be made patent and the Seal of the United States to be herewith affixed. Given under my hand, at the City of Washing- ton the Sixteenth day of January in the year of our Lord one thousand Eight hundred and seven: and of the Independence of the United States of America, the Thirty-first. (Recorded.) TH. JEFFERSON. By the President. JAMES MADISON. Secretary of State. This Commission dated 16th July 1806, was issued in the recess of the Senate who have since ratified the appointment and this Commission issued in consequence of that ratification. w ' Of tyftyuu&ay S a/t aaJo JcM JU -t£i ^.'UM.^ ^M/luil4 ett4l^^<) 'i-tU. 'USh - f ^ ^ »^ ^Sl^va:^ ^L£& //^Dx^ -^e. Ztiu ^ta,\. ( n*'^^^/ • ■y'^j^-*«-A«.« »^^i?Xv'"' 35587b mMJrim 11 o^ i o juaxiooniMi *> W:- pj •^s. 1 w a: i-!M-- ^ 3 a m a < o n *- o a ^r»l7B(7wO;;;«5 r o i :;:':■- o OS f::fik H C 1 7. O /5 o n """"W Q •is 1^ p < n D rttj u ^ii o mAltOJ.SH36VH ) Z . o o H &3 Q ^ U3 ^ 5 rt o s ^ OH S.i o M ^-: « t) i pi OO 2S ^ ps PS i "^mmi < en Mi «^ JlJ^fi* ^§ o ■111 Is ^ ^ H •s>. 1 'Tjl^:^;:^;: < « o s^ oMtrii/SBun^&A O in .2 J) O 1 1 \\^' ■■'■'■: -''■'- S< > '^ S: !U^-'- ■:'.■■ "■■';' o u . 5; y^tfnGis'onj}. O .5 00 ^J 7 l/AS'J. N\fS9 V ■; O < t- w Q < e'5" o aj " NMQJMO/N/K0K-V: tn bfiC 7 u o o rniASUMOti H i Z P o is 5 r 1 o •5i5„ s $ K r-6-= \ iS! U3 c*-« -^ M0J3N/HS*M^^:^/::^[: s s«2 f. :.■■■>.-.-■;;- VSV>v;;v: <; ="^?, l^-:^.^-n « .»J5^ nt--'-'':-^: o fe.y- mm < ^* eNn33H/m$: > 3 ^;2 8§||§§§88§^ ; 'koto by Gilbert, Frostburg THE CUMBERLAND NARROWS, ONE OF THE MOST STRATEGIC, PICTURESQUE AND HISTORIC LOCALITIES IN THE UNITED STATES, AND GATEWAY TO THE WEST BY THE OLD NATIONAL ROAD Taken from an exposed point on the high escarpment of Castle Rock or "Lover's Leap," about 800 feet above the stream. In the gorge: the B. & O., C. & P. and Eckhart Branch railroads on the right; Wills Creek, a tributary of the nearby Potomac, in the center; next the National Pike, on which runs the Cumberland-Frostburg trolley; on the extreme left, the Western Maryland Railway and the Pennsylvania Railroad in Maryland. The view is through the west portal of the Narrows, just beyond which (right at the high, two-span bridge of the AVestem Maryland Railway), the Valley of Braddock Run curves to the left, and is followed by the Pike. Wills Creek turns abruptly to the right; and about two miles further on the valley of Jenning's Run opens to the left. The National Road, up the valley of Braddock's Run and the scenic Mt. Savage road, along the picturesque valley of Jenning's Run (both shown on the detailed map, pages 38-39), make two complete routes between the Narrows and Frostburg, encircling Andy's Ridge, a limestone hill facing the Narrows, whose sightly fields, on the eastern slope, are cultivated to the top, and Piney Mountain, the dark wooded mass in the background. Jenning's Run flows through the low gap at the northern end of Piney Mountain. In the extreme distance, on the right, is a dim outline of the northern part of Big Savage Mountain, whose summit is crossed by the National Pike a short distance west of Frostburg. VIEW FROM THE HEAD OF NAVIGATION ON THE" POTOMAC AT CUMBERLAND, ACROSS PART OF THAT CITY INTO THE "NARROWS" This passage into the mountains largely de- termined the course of the National Turnpike from the head of navigation on the Potomac to the Youghiogheny River. The end of the narrows in the middle distance is 2 3/10 miles from Ba-ltimore and Center Streets, Cumber- land; just one mile nearer that city, and almost, but not quite, within the picture, is the historic stone bridge shown on pages 36 and 41. For a general view of the topography along this por- tion of the National Road, see the detailed map of Cumberland, page 35, and the condensed ex- tension of same on page 39 and top of page 48. THE OLD NATIONAL ROAD Most Historic Thoroughfare in the United States, and Strategic Eastern Link IN THE National Old Trails Ocean-to-Ocean Highway By Robert Bruce the several fare in the United States can the name "National , ASILY first among through highways running west from the Atlantic seaboard, and ranking with the Santa Fe and Oregon trails of the far West, is the old National Road, which, though completed as a government project only from Cumberland, Maryland, to Wheeling (then Virginia, now West Virginia), was connected up with the older pikes from Baltimore, Frederick and Hagerstown, and subsequently with the newer lines west of the Ohio River, making for all time the shortest and most natural way for road travel from tide- water at Chesapeake Bay to the junction of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers at St. Louis, Missouri. It follows as direct a course across the Alleghany Mountains as the nature of the country in western Maryland and southwestern Pennsylvania would permit; it is a wonderfully scenic route, and has a historic background beyond comparison with any of its rivals. This Old National Road has been from the first an unique American institution, and was for many years a vital factor in the life, politics and industry of the country. To no other thorough- Road" be correctly applied up to the present time. Between Cumberland and Wheeling, the names "National Pike" and "Cumberland Road" are interchangeable, both having been used indis- criminately by the Secretary of War, Chief En- gineer and the field forces in their extensive cor- respondence during the progress of the work. The map extending across pages 8 and 9 shows graphically this old road as a base-line from which branch, and into which come, the next most important routes between Chesapeake Bay and the forks of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, across about one- third of the "Continent. It is unquestionably the most direct route of its length in the United States today, the only deviations from a straight line being occasional short offsets in going through some of the towns; and such windings as were found necessary to make safe ascents and descents of the numerous ridges in the Appalachian Chain. So carefully was the route originally laid out that the loss of distance in the mountains between Clear Spring, Maryland, and Uniontown, Pa., is remarkably small, the road seeming always to typical of the roadway from BALTIMORE TO WHEELING; NEARLY ALWAYS upgrade or downgrade, with OCCASIONALLY A RESTFUL LEVEL stretch find the shortest and easiest way across from one summit to another — usually by running down along the side of one ridge to the foot; and then, perhaps at once, but more often after a restful stretch of level road, making the corresponding ascent on the other side. Generally, too, there is a broad sweep to the curves, and a fair margin of safety to the traveler, in pleasing contrast to the narrow roads and sharp curves often found in equally hilly sections. Many times between Baltimore and Hagers- town, and occasionally beyond, even close to the Ohio River, the motorist beginning one long descent may look ahead, perhaps three or four miles, across the intervening valley and see an automobile, or even a shadowy motorcycle, start- ing down the opposite grade. Let them "sight" each other, as over an imaginary rifle barrel, and often the first apparent variation of either from the perfectly straight line will be at a point where each swerves enough from the center of the road to avoid a collision as they pass. Rid- ing by night on these stretches, a star will often hang persistently in the same general position mile after mile. Except on the mountains, where long straightaways are impossible, as many as four or five ascents and descents can sometimes be seen ahead or behind — usually all in a straight line. It will also be observed from the same map that the Old National Road is a highway of the East, of the North and the South. In the early days it was also considered a thoroughfare of the great West; but not so much in present usage, since "the West" has now come to mean the Rocky Mountains country and the Pacific Coast, rather than the Ohio, Mississippi and Missouri River valleys, which seemed so much farther away to our forefathers. Striking Comparisons of Distance Recalling that the traveler of a century or more ago invariably experienced the full physical proportions of every mile, it is easier to under- stand the enormous advantages to the emigrant, stage coach patron and freight wagon driver, of the shortest possible distance between strategic points on highway and waterway, which lends special interest to some comparisons of distance greatly favorable to the Old National Road. From Baltimore through Cumberland to Wheel- ing is slightly under 300 miles, if anything, a trifle less than the distance from Albany to Buffalo, N. Y. But the latter Is only a fraction of the road mileage from New York City or New England by the northern route to the Ohio River, by which a great part of the central West was settled long before the route through New York State and along the Great Lakes was opened up. Prior to the completion of this old road, as much as possible of the journey from East to West was rnade by water, especially the Potomac River, most convenient from the tidewater. Pied- mont and Shenandoah Valley districts of Virginia, from which the Central West drew most heavily. But how much greater the distance that way is shown graphically by the map on top of page 9, of the river and road between Hancock and Cumberland, Maryland. Note the curious multiple windings of the upper Potomac, necessi- tated by the many hills that could alter its course a hundred times, but nowhere completely check Between/ Wlueling on, lAe Ohio River, and St.Louis, at Ute JimcUon or the Missitsippi and Missouri, is mostly an^ easy roUmg country wH/v ftvqaent long straigtuaways for the entire disuuux ofaioiU 550 miles. -^»5 MAP SHOWING THE NEARLY-DIRECT ROUTE ACROSS THE SEVERAL RIDGES BETWEEN HANCOCK AND CUMBERLAND, MD.; AND, IX CONTRAST, THE LONG ROUNDABOUT COURSE OF THE POTOMAC RIVER, BY WHICH TRAVEL FROM BALTIMORE, WASHINGTON, FREDERICK, AND HAGERSTOWN REACHED THE WEST BEFORE THE HIGHWAY WAS BUILT its progress. The distance from Hancock to Cumberland by water is possibly three times that by the Old National Road, which, as if to scorn the roundabout and more deliberate way of the river, took a bold western course into the mount- tains. Hardly less striking is the comparison of dis- tance, clearly brought out by the diagram on page 10, between Cumberland and Wheeling by the Old National Road and the two lines of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, as used by travelers between these points today. The former was laid out to secure the shortest practicable highway from the Potomac to the Ohio ; the latter largely to tap important traffic points off the direct route. So while the road traveler only needs to go 131 miles between Cumberland and Wheeling, the B. & O. passenger by the upper line must cover 207 miles, even to transfer between con- necting trains at Glenwood, or 217 miles by the usual way into and out of Pittsburgh. The corresponding rail distance through Graf- ton and Fairmont is 201 miles, which figures a saving by the Old National Road of 70 miles over the lower line, or from 76 to 86 miles over the upper line. Under favorable conditions a good driver can safely run an automobile be- tween Cumberland and Wheeling in not much more time than it takes by the fast trains of the B. & O. ; and in fact the passenger would be obliged to figure very close connections not to be left considerably behind. Also between Baltimore and Cumberland the old pike has the shortest route — 140 miles direct "^% Short stroke lutes 1 5;^v indicate the AppaJar/Ua/v chaiiv or mountains, of whtcK Ui€ Alleghenies are apart. The Old ^'^ XiUx4)n*ii Road, is the shortest and easiest highway aeross Ihenv '^*^ through' t/te 'Narrows " immediaiely west of CwnberUuut. Md. u. ^'-. E.Liverpool STEUBEN) -VILLEJ i BeaverX ^Rochesfer ^Sewickley FORKS OF THC OHia PITTSBURQilnJ CARNEOICC Bridoevillec .^ it^Glenwood 3BRADD0CK In^KECSPORT Diagram ofcomparahve distances by road and by rail between CUMBElRLAm and WHEEUNS; a/so comparahve distances by road and by water t)etv/een BroiMnsville,PiH-sbur^t) and Wtieelin^ Ganonsbur WASHINGTON ^RW.Newton Slaysville I W.AIexander liWHEELING ioundsvilLe ^tosneryHill Beallsviiie^ Cameron awson BROWNSVILLE^fcCONNELLSVlLLE ^^eel\ ,,v •0»_ JJNJONTOWN ''S^^^ Braddocia^ Scale of Miles Rockwood ^rave Fort Necessity iomerfield nColmar L\ "ere^tMeadolvs" ~areaK(SP«SSiS"^'° vV ^"^ColtT «^; J Cross/^^^^^^dlSOn W )7 . Littleton MCK4. ^ Manninjten jt^J FAIRMONT* MhSava«a Terra Alt'a„ LQRAFTON through Frederick and Hagerstown, as against 192 on the B. & O. However, the comparison does not mean as much as those on the mountain divisions, for the reason' that the main line of the railroad makes a considerable southward detour through Washington, D. C. ; and for most of the way from Baltimore west to Hagerstown and Cumberland, roads and rails are far apart. The diagram above also shows the very long way around from Pittsburgh to Wheeling by water through what is now Sewickley and Beaver, Pa., and Steubenville, Ohio. Some of the earliest emigration took that route, though Indian /"unners between points west of the pres- ent site of Wheeling and the Forks of the Ohio, the downtown Pittsburgh of today, had long used a short-cut of which the Wheeling-Washington (Pa.) portion of the Old National Road was unquestionably a part. Background of Historic Interest A clear perspective requires at least a brief his- . torical chronology of the Old National Road; and timely interest is added by the fact that this great natural thoroughfare will undoubtedly be brought up to a high modern standard through- out, and become a basic trunk line in our coming transcontinental highway system. This will in- volve a radical change from the original purpose, for while the regular passengers, the mails and the heavy freight it was destined to carry have been transferred almost entirely to the rails, a new forrn of travel has come forward to more than take their place. Hardly had American independence been won and the full responsibilities of a new nation undertaken, than the need for better means of communication and transport between the Atlan- tic seaboard and the growing settlements in what is now the Central West became generally ap- parent. Daring pioneers had already blazed a few primitive trails through the Alleghenies to the Ohio River or its tributaries; over these long trails passed many emigrants from the East and South to new homes in the Ohio and Mississippi Valleys, but principally by boat from the present ■sites of Pittsburgh or Wheeling, as east-and-west roadways across Ohio and Indiana came later. 10 3- The Government saw the necessity of keeping in communication with and protecting these emi- grants; and, in fact, was frequently called upon to do so, especially during the Indian wars. Travel, the mails and all commerce were entirely dependent upon open thoroughfares and navigable watercourses; and of course Federal authority had to be transmitted and upheld through the same channels. Roads were the one possible solu- tion, and only the Nation itself could at that time build so great and expensive a road as that needed to keep open communication between Washington and the Ohio River across the moun- tains. sj It is fairly well established that to George Washington was due the original conception of the National Road, and that he also foresaw the commercial importance of the Hudson River- Mohawk Valley-Great Lakes route between the East and the Central West. This is a reasonable supposition, for as a young man he made two round trips between Virginia and Fort Duquesne through a considerable part of which territory the Old National Road was afterward built, and became well acquainted with the topography of the Hudson River and the Mohawk Valley during the Revolutionary War. The "Father of his Country" did not live to see the great project undertaken, but the idea found valiant champions in Albert Gallatin, Henry Clay, John C. Calhoun and Thomas Jefferson, so that in 1802 (only three years after the death of Wash- ington), Congress took it up along with a bill to admit Ohio into the Union; and afterward arranged for financing it through sales of public lands in the new states it would principally benefit. On March 29, 1806, President Jefferson signed a bill appropriating $30,000 for a preliminary survey from Cumberland, head of navigation on the Potomac, through the Cumberland Narrows and across the mountains to the Ohio River at Wheeling; construction (supported by appro- priations made as needed) followed as soon as practicable thereafter, but was nearly stopped by the war of 1812. Work was resumed on a larger scale in 1816, and continued, despite some interruptions, through western Maryland, south- western Pennsylvania, and across a corner of what is now upper West Virginia to the Ohio River, so that it was opened to Wheeling in 1818, having been built that far during the administra- tions of Jefferson, Madison and Monroe. One result of this was to make Wheeling, which was settled as far back as 1769, a very important point of embarkation, for the bulk of emigration that started west over the National Road preferred to float from the Ohio River toward the present sites of Marietta, Cincinnati and Louisville, rather than to strike through the little-known wilderness more directly west. Sixty or seventy flat-boats, loaded with emigrants and their belongings, frequently passed a certain point in a single day; these were not all brought to the great river by the National Road, for some came from the partly-settled valleys of the Allegheny and Monongahela to Pittsburgh or Brownsville, without the necessity of crossing the mountains, but the Old Road was undoubtedly the more important factor of the two. The original statute under which construction 1 . had been carried to the Ohio River, provided for nothing west of Wheeling; but so great use was made of the completed portion, and so insistent became the demand for its extension, especially across Central Ohio and Indiana, that on May 15, 1820, Congress appropriated $10,000 for a new survey from Wheeling to the Mississippi River opposite St. Louis — the act calling specifi- cally for a "straight line, eighty feet wide." This was followed by liberal appropriations from 1820 to 1838, during which time a vast amount of work was done in Ohio and Indiana ; but toward the last Congress seemed to lose interest in the project, and voted funds only for grading and bridging that part of it in southern Illinois. Such work as was done along the route in. that state was not of a substantial or permanent char- acter; so the Old National Road never became, as Clay and Gallatin had expected it would, an improved thoroughfare from east of the Alle- ghenies all the way to the Mississippi River valley. Meanwhile, it was evident that the country was at the beginning of a great railway era, and rumblings of an impending civil waj began to be heard. The cost of repairs on the ' completed portions had been greatly underesti- mated, and one by one the states of Ohio, Mary- , land, Virginia and Pennsylvania in the order named, accepted the offer of Congress for them to take over and maintain that part of the road within their borders. Except for short pieces of road in national Cemeteries, Army Posts, National Parks, irri- gation districts and th» like, the Federal govern- ment then gave up all highway construction, and has never resumed it on this continent. The final appropriation was on June 17, 1844, when a supplementary bill was passed carrying $1,359.81 for "arrearages," and the accounts for the Old National Road were closed, after a total expenditure of $6,824,919.33, a large sum in 11 ^sm^f- 3 ROADWAY IN MARYLAND, NEAR THE FOOT OF GREEN RIDGE those days ; but without question, for every dollar spent in the building and maintenance of this road, ten dollars were added to the wealth of the territory it traversed, and thereby to the Nation. Coaches carrying passengers and the mails, and freight wagons in large numbers, continued to use the Old National Road until about 1852, when the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad was so far complete as to make the general use of the highway no longer profitable. Unfortunately, there was nothing at that time to take the place of the traffic that was shifted to the railroad, and for that reason no real incentive to keep it in good condition. Not only was the modern idea of touring over the roads as a means of pleasure and recreation unthought of, but the opportunities for its enjoyment would have been small at best, as the crowded, lumbering coaches afforded no comfort at the ordinary speed of ten or twelve miles per hour; and no long trip was without its dangers, as the records of the stage companies and occasional letters from travelers abundantly prove. What may be called the modern history of the National Highway dates back to its transfer (during 1831 and 1832) from Federal to an in- dividual State control, followed by a long period of neglect, during which time the old Pike fell from its once-proud estate, largely because when government interest and supervision ceased, the original commanding purpose was lost, and the project was never carried through to its logical conclusions by the states concerned — Maryland, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. Perhaps this was only natural, as they never had any uniform or united plan for its repair and maintenance; and, at least until com- paratively recent years, lacked the machinery to do this in the most effective way. But latterly, both Maryland and Pennsylvania have made so great and permanent improvements over the mountain divisions that it has not only been fully restored to through travel, but is generally conceded to be. the most natural eastern connection for the National Old Trails Ocean- to-Ocean Highway, one of the large, vital factors in our coming transcontinental development. Great Service to the Central West Aside from carrying the mails, the greatest usefulness of the Old National Road was in breaking a way through- the Appalachian Moun- tains, enabling thousands of emigrants to pass through to the West more easily and quickly than through any other channels. The influence of the Great Lakes on the course of travel between the East and the Central West came later, for Marietta, Cincinnati and Louisville were settled long in advance of Cleveland, Toledo, India- napolis and Chicago, which had no such feeders as the National Road and the Ohio River. The centers of population were also quite dif- ferent from what they are today ; our first census —that of 1790— gave a little less than 4,000,000 inhabitants for the entire country, about one-fifth of whom were slaves. Among the states Virginia ranked first, then Pennsylvania, North Carolina, Massachusetts, New York, Maryland, South Carolina and Connecticut, while Ohio, Indiana and Illinois were scarcely more than a boundless wilderness and prairie country, separating the Alleghenies from the Mississippi River Valley. There were only five cities of 10,000 or over — Philadelphia, New York, Boston, Charleston and Baltimore, and the center of population was about twenty-three miles east of the latter. Such part of the Northwest and Southwest as had been explored owed that fact principally to their accessibility by the Mississippi and Missouri rivers ; and at least to the pioneer from the South, the Hudson River-Mohawk Valley-Great Lakes route to the West was almost entirely unknown. Zanesville, Columbus, Indianapolis, Terre Haute and hundreds of other places between owe much of their importance, if not always their actual locations, to the line of travel thrown into that channel by the pioneer trunk line from Cumber- land to Wheeling. 12 No other highway in this country has ever equalled the National Road in political and com- mercial importance, or has had so many pic- turesque country taverns built upon it; some of these are still standing, and occasionally one caters to the passing motorist, though the greater dis- tances traveled today naturally give an advantage to the city hotels located at important route centers. In the course of these articles, careful note will be made of such of these old places as can be easily identified by the leisurely traveler, and insofar as possible the locations of others, not now in existence but of importance in the olden days, has been shown on the maps. Some hauls were made over the old Pike and its western connections by heavily loaded wagons that seem long even to the motorist of today, such as from Baltimore to Terre Haute, Ind., Spring- field, 111., or even Nashville, Tenn., which fre- quently took from three to four months or more for the round trip. One old "wagoner," John Snider, hauled a load of goods from Baltimore to Wheeling, Cincinnati and Nashville, striking across from the Tennessee capital to Lynchburg, Virginia, where he took on another load and drove it back to Baltimore. Reviving the Historic Interest Without the automobile, and the demand for Improved through roads that has been so wonder- fully aided by it, the Old National Pike would probably not be undergoing its present almost complete transformation, and it is certain the motorists will soon, if they do not now, greatly outnumber all other travelers over the entire Baltimore - Hagerstown - Cumberland -Wheeling line. A growing percentage of these will be from distant parts of the country, with a real interest in historic routes and places. The literature, so to speak, of the National Road is practically out of the reach of the average motor tourist. The History of the Old Pike, by T. B. Searight, published at Uniontown, Pa., in 1894, dealt largely with the personal, individual side of the old tavern keepers, freight wagon drivers, stage coach proprietors, etc., in which the average through tourist can 6^ interested only in a slight degree. That book, written for the generation that knew its human characters, is an invaluable reference for the student of life on the old road; but it is now practically out of print, and was never intended as a guide for the traveler. Neither Mr. Searight's history, nor the briefer monograph of Prof. Archer Butler Hulbert (1904) attempted to bring out the topographical features, which are of the very first importance to the present-day traveler, who would secure a basic understanding of the National Road and its part in the early history of the country. In fact, both were published before topographic route mapping had begun in the United States, and when road conditions were of much less im- portance thafl now. Scarcely/more has yet been included in the motoristslr formal guide-books than mileages, names of cities and villages, and landmarks neces- sary for actual directions, with perhaps a brief introductory paragraph summarizing the route as a whole. As a result, the road traveler has had nothing to help him identify the inter- .esting old houses, or to connect those and various other points of interest graphically with the past. So, in the present work, the actual topography of the line from Baltimore to Wheeling has been made a feature of first importance, particularly the detailed maps in the succeeding chapters.' Though only recently made a thoroughly prac- ticable touring route, there is no reason to doubt that it will continue to grow in favor with middle and long-distance tourists, especially as the prog- ress so evident east of the Ohio River is now almost equally apparent on its principal central- western connections, making a thoroughfare greater than was dreamed of a century ago. rnotograph by Underwood & Utiacrzcood CHARACTERISTIC BIT OF SCENERY NEAR CUMBERLAND, MARYLAND 13 WASHINGTON MONUMENT, WASHINGTON PLACE. NORTH CHARLES STREET AND MT. VERNON PLACE, BALTIMORE Usually considered the touring center of that city. Peabody Institute on right; across the street, also on the right, the Mt. Vernon Church. View looking up North Charles Street Chapter 2: BALTIMORE THROUGH FREDERICK TO HAGERSTOWN, MARYLAND In this and following chapters, the trip from Baltimore to Wheeling is taken up in detail, and made graphic by the large-scale maps. Usually the best plan would be to leave Balti- more in the morning, running through Frederick to Hagerstown, lunching there and continuing through to Cumberland for the intermediate night stop. In this way, the forenoon will be spent " covering the long rolling stretches character- istic of Central Maryland; in the afternoon, there will be about twenty miles of the same kind of traveling to the edge of the mountains, and then one ridge after another will be crossed on the balance of the way into Cumberland. It will add greatly to the interest of your trip to make a few preliminary observations about 14 Baltimore, especially in the old part, now about the center of the manufacturing and wholesale district. Perhaps the greatest surprise to the stranger will be the vast amount of marine com- merce, as evidenced by the number and size of the boats that use at least four solid blocks on Light Street, immediately below Pratt Street, for docks. That locality is now, as it was 100 years ago, the shipping center, likewise, the most westerly point reached by boat from the northern seaboard ; this has been of great commercial ad- vantage to Baltimore, and is the basis of the rail- way freight "differential," with respect to west- ern and southern trade, which that city holds today. Moreover, the old highway from here to the Ohio River owed much of its importance to the fact that both passengers and wagon freight could be quickly and easily transferred between boat and road. It was but natural that the old taverns, largely patronized both by stage-coach passengers and freight-wagon drivers, should have been located within a few blocks of the wharves, and on streets conveniently situated for beginning the long trip over the old road leading West. Two of these, greatly altered of course, and long since put to more common uses, can still be seen, and some slight traces of a third one. MONUMENT ERECTED TO THE MEMORY OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION On the left is a small part of the Mount Royal Station, B. & O. R- R. ; on the right a view in Mount Royal Avenue, with the Watson Monument in the distance CONFEDERATE MONUMENT, FACING SOUTHWEST ON MT. ROYAL AVENUE, BETWEEN LAFAYETTE AVENUE AND MOSHER STREET This monument can be plainly seen just ahead as one turns from Mt. Royal Ave. into Lafayette Ave., in making the westward exit from Baltimore toward Ellicott City that way Undoubtedly, the most popular starting point for stage coach travel and transportation of goods was the May Pole Tavern, which stood until comparatively recent years on the southwest corner of German and Paca Streets, only a block from West Baltimore Street, the shortest way into the Old Frederick Road. "In front of it stands," {Searight's History, 1894), "a tall, thin granite column, representative of a pole, and preserva- tive of the ancient name." The pole, or column has since disappeared, but one may at least imagine that some parts of the somewhat dilapi- dated business building on that corner today were left from the old tavern. On the northeast corner of Paca and Pratt Streets is what remains of the Three Tun Tavern, a favorite stopping place for stage-coach travelers to and from Washington, as well as for those by the old road to the West. Over twenty years ago it ceased to accommodate transients; the ground floor is now used for a saloon, and the rest of the building for miscellaneous purposes. Its stables, which stood until a few years ago on the corner of Pratt and Green Streets, shel- tered in their day large numbers of stage coaches, freight wagons and prairie schooners. Probably the only one of the old taverns in Baltimore that still displays its former name (in letters on the front), is the Hand House, on the IS west side of Paca Street, just above Lexington. It was built at least 140 years ago, so solidly that it might stand as long again ; little has been done to change the appearance, and the interior is practically the same as when it took care, of travelers, though the old signboard, in the shape of a hand, has disappeared. At one end of the cellar, cut ofif from the outer wall by a lighter wall of brick, is said to be a small room with a barred window, often used as a detention place for negroes in the prime of the slave trade. There are several other tavern sites of lesser interest if one has time to look them up. Newer Exits Better Than the Old Tourists who wish to go out of Baltimore by the identical route followed by the stage coaches and freight wagons can do so by following West Baltimore Street direct to the left fork of Fred- erick Avenue at Gilmor Street and along into the Old Frederick Road. But Baltimore Street is not a suitable exit for automobiles ; and as the city has grown northward, it is worth while to take one of the longer but better ways shown on the detail map pages 16 and 17. Charles Street is usually considered the basic thoroughfare for planning trips into or out of the city, and the impressive Washington Monument, at Mount Vernon Place, shown on page 14, the actual route center. One short good way would be from North Charles Street, starting west from the residence of Cardinal Gibbons (on northwest corner of N. Charles and Mulberry Streets), at once pass- ing the cathedral on the right, and running along Mulberry Street to the intersection of Fulton Avenue. Now either turn right on Fulton Avenue, cross Franklin Street, and turn next left into Edmondson Avenue; or turn left on Fulton Avenue to the unmistakable right fork of Frederick Avenue, a few blocks below. But if one is desirous of seeing still more of the monu- ments for which Baltimore is justly famous, it is even preferable to go up North Charles Street to Mt. Royal Avenue, turning left and follow- ing that beautiful avenue, either a short way to Lafayette Avenue or through to North Avenue, using in either case the connections shown on the large-scale map pages 16 and 17 into Edmondson Avenue. No effort has been made to select one arbitrary way out of the city, but rather to make the con- siderable choice clear to the stranger. This is the only part of the route where such choice is possible, as from Ellicott City through to Cum- berland and Wheeling, the one line of the old See next page GRAPHIC SUMMARY OF MAIN-TRAVELED ROADS LEADING FROM BALTIMORE WAY TO THE WEST. TO A CONSIDERABLE EXTENT THESE SAME WAGON, IN THE PALMY Through traffic over them was "never as great as it is by automobile today. The principal the Patapsco River, by which marine commerce from 16 road takes preference over everything else. The landmarks and points of interest on these various exits are so many that it would be difficult to include even mention of them in a travel sketch; but as many as space allow are shown on the map across this and the opposite page. Beyond the city line, there is little choice be- tween the Frederick Avenue and the Edmondson Avenue routes, the former passing through and the other a trifle above Catonsville; it will be noted that both come together about two miles east of Ellicott City, and follow the same route to the crossing of the Patapsco at that point. The Old Frederick Road originally took a north- westerly course from a point somewhat east of Ellicott City through Oella, crossing the river above and coming into the line of the present direct road farther west, over at least some pieces of road that have ceased to be traveled today. It may be interesting to note that the original line of the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad was built across the same territory, though by a more southerly route through Relay, now as then half as long again as the direct highway. The first regular rail transportation in the United States was inaugurated on the route between Baltimore and Ellicott City; relays of horses were used at the start, steam being introduced in 1830, when Peter Cooper hauled the first train with "Tom Thumb," the pioneer Amierican locomotive. Later, when that railway became a large, wide- spreading system, the route through Relay, Laurel and Washington was made its main line to and from the West. We cross the Patapsco River by a comparatively new concrete bridge; and pass under the "old main line" of the B. & O. into the center of Ellicott City, originally settled by an enterpris- ing family of that name from Pennsylvania. When they came in 1772, the country here- abouts was almost a primeval wilderness; but in a few years they had improved the road over which they had come with much difficulty from Baltimore; and also widened for miles the Indian path that preceded the very thoroughfare now used from the Patapsco to Frederick. They built saw-mills and grist-mills, all of which were operated by \yater-power ; and distributed their various products widely through the colony, be- coming thereby the leading merchants of that sec- tion. Ellicott City was then and for long after- wards, looked upon as a permanent commercial and industrial center, but was found to be too near Baltimore, and is now principally a resid- ence suburb of that city. If one has time, there LOaTION$ OF HISTORIC TAVERNS 1 MayPoloTavem (tvacesonl^) 2 Three Tuns Tavern (great!/ altered) 3 Hand House (still standing) Continued from preceding page TO ELLICOTT CITY, MARYLAND, THE FIRST POINT OF IMPORTANCE ON THE HIGHWAYS WERE TRAVELED BY THE STAGECOACH AND FREIGHT DAYS OF THE OLD PIKE taverns were located in what is now the downtown business center, nearby the wharves of Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic comes into Baltimore 17 TYPE OF EASY "ROLLING" ROAD A succession of almost well-balanced ascents and descents, characteristic of the Baltimore- Wheeling route, except in the more mountainous districts are several points of scenic and historic interest in and about the town. The winding old main street is poorly paved; and the average tourist is glad to ascend the considerable grade from the center into the good road which begins at the town limits, where the trolley is also left be- hind. A Country of Rolling Roads. Immediately west of Ellicott City begins an almost continuous series of sloping elevations and corresponding depressions, extending practically through Frederick and Hagerstown to Clear Spring, beyond which the nature of the country makes them fewer in number, though they occur in less pronounced form, and at greater intervals, all the way through Cumberland and Uniontown to Wheeling. An excellent idea of this char- acter of road is given in the illustration on this page; in most cases the hills are ascended and descended by very long straightaways, so that an automobile starting down the opposite slope appears like a mere speck in the distance — at first seeming more likely to be standing still than moving. In fact two machines placed just right will often travel at speed toward each other for a full minute or more before turning out to pass at th6 foot. One result of their great length is that the grades are not usually as steep as they at first appear. For instance, the grade in the foreground, over which the automobile has just passed, is possibly as steep as any part of the road in the distance. From the opposite heights, fine views of the surrounding country can almost always be had. There is a definite fascination in motoring over this road not accounted for by the fact that the surface is good throughout (except in some of the towns), or dispelled by one ascent and descent following another with almost mechanical regularity. Certainly no roads in the "rolling prairie" country are comparable in this respect with the Baltimore-Frederick-Hagerstown pikes. If the driver wishes, he may "coast" a half mile, a mile, or even more, and let the momentum gained carry the machine most — occasionally all — of the way up the next grade. On the left, only a short distance west of Elli- cott City, there stands an old toll-gate, recalling the considerable number that once collected small amounts from every kind of traffic all the way to the Ohio River. But the conditions that brought them into existence are now a thing of the past; and one may travel from Baltimore through Cumberland to Wheeling without paying a cent for the privilege. These old toll-houses are, however, interesting relics of the olden days, as will be seen from characteristic types, especially on the western half of the old road, where they were better preserved than in Eastern Maryland. Occasionally unexpected curves shut off the view immediately ahead; but usually these are wide and the surface uniformly good, so that careful driving is all that is necessary. Good drainage is at all times in evidence; and every stream is bridged, sometimes more elaborately and expensively than would seem necessary. Now and then we pass an old, low, square signpost " — M. to Baltimore," the figures and letters often difficult to decipher at speed. Prosperous farms line both sides of the road, although the buildings are seldom pretentious ; most of the houses are painted white, the fences, barns and smaller build- ings being generally whitewashed. This seems 18 to be a fashion throughout Central Maryland, like the red barns in Pennsylvania, and adds to the attractiveness of the country in spring and summer. Through Small but Interesting Places On the right, about fifteen miles west of Balti- more, are the ruins of St. Charles' College, burned in February, 1911, and now being re-established at Catonsville. This is a Catholic institution, founded July 11, 1831, upon funds donated by Charles Carroll of Carrollton, one of the sign- ers of the Declaration of IrKiependence, and at that time probably the wealthiest citizen of the colony, who gave 253 acres of land from his estate and some money. It was opened in Octo- ber, 1848 to train young men for the Catholic ministry, and is affiliated with St. Mary's Uni- versity and Theological Seminary, of St. Sulpice, Baltimore. Almost immediately opposite the college grounds is the entrance to "Doughoregan Manor," the Carroll estate, where a descendant of the original family still resides. Carroll lived to see not only this old road opened to the Ohio River, but laid the cornerstone of the Baltimore and Ohio Rail- road in 1828, about four years before his death. This is all old and historic country, and it would not be difficult for the leisurely traveler to find throughout this section landmarks dating back to the early days of Maryland, when that colony was a loyal supporter of the British crown. Unfortunately, few of the small towns can be positively identified as one passes through; and the name of a place over the post office or elsewhere is a novelty. The diagonal cross- road next beyond the St. Charles' College grounds is West Friendship, where a good road branches to the right, crossing the Patapsco at Sykesville, and running through to Westminster. Already we see occasional buildings that were undoubtedly taverns in the days of the stage coach and freight wagon, but they lack the individuality of those farther west ; now and then there is also a log house, either standing alone or more likely added to by the later generation of occupants. Beyond Cooksville, larger hills appear in the far distance; and we know that beyond them are the real mountains. On the left, just before reaching Lisbon, the "Warfield Pike" branches off to the left about three miles to Daisy; this road was built and is now looked after by ex- Governor Warfield, of Maryland, to whose home it runs, and is called, at least locally, by his name. Lisbon, the largest village so far west of Ellicott City, is surrounded by prosperous farms, the houses on some of which are set well back from the road ; next are the hamlets of Poplar Springs and Poplar Heights. About two miles beyond the latter a decided right curve is made, crossing first a stream so small that it is hardly noticeable at speed, but in reality the south branch of the Patapsco, and then two tracks of the ,V1EW OF THE B. & O. R. K KKIDGE OVER THE PATAPSCO RIVER, AND STATION, RELAY, MARYLAND, LOOKING NORTHEAST This is below Catonsville, a short distance off the road from Baltimore to Hagerstown; but is interesting to the tourist over this route from the fact that it -was the junction point or "relay" on the original line of railroad from Baltimore to Ellicott City. A close look at the picture will disclose a monument in front of the railroad station, , which commemorates the first stone arch railroad bridge in America 19 B. & O. old main line, at a rather dangerous angle, into Ridgeville. This small town is of considerable importance from the fact that the main route from Wash- ington via Olney and Laytonsville passes north through its central four-corners to Mt. Airy, Westminster, Hanover and York. On the near right-hand corner is the Eagle Hotel, still dis- playing the almost extinct sign of the League of American Wheelmen. The road now skirts the north side of the railroad for about four miles; then the railway leaves to the left, while the old pike continues its direct course over the rolling hills to and through New Market. A consider- able number of automobiles are noticed in the towns, many of which are quite a distance from the railway and without trolley service. Churches and schools are the principal landmarks in most places, with now and then an old tavern, gener- ally small and unpretentious on this part of the old road. Nearing the "Debatable Ground" About five miles beyond New Market, the old pike makes a long, easy descent to the Monocacy River, which is crossed by a most interesting old stone bridge, shown in the illustration page 21. On the right-hand side, at the eastern end, is a curiously-shaped stone pillar in the form of a jug, which has led to this structure being widely known as the "bottle" bridge. To realize its strength one must leave the car and take a careful look at the dimensions of the solid stone arches and the depth of the roadway; and to realize that it was built without aid of derricks, cranes and other facilities considered necessary for such work today. The inscription on the "jug" or bottle is now somewhat illegible, but originally read about as follows: Built in years of 1808-1809. Supt. of bridge as it now stands, Leo Harbaugh. James Elliott, 1st producer of the bold plan of this bridge. Bridge with 4 arches 65 ft. spans. Supervisors, John Lewis Wamphler, secretary and surveyor, Joseph Evans, Supt. of the road. * * 4i 4> * :<< 4< John Elliott, Luke Lerman, William Lor- man, George Baer, John McPherson, John Graham, Jele HoUingsworn, Thomas Lee, Managers. So far there have been no evidences along the old road of this having been part of the "debat- able ground" during the Civil War; but only about two and a half miles southwest from the bridge, as the crow flies, was fought the Battle of Monocacy, on July 9, 1863, near what is now Frederick Junction, on the old main line of the B. & O. General Early was in command of the Confederate Army, and General Lew Wal- lace of the Union forces, the latter consisting largely of Indiana Zouaves and a small number of raw recruits. They met on the western bank of the Monocacy, where both the railroad bridge and the bridge over the road to and from Wash- ington were protected by earthworks and two blockhouses. Wallace was defeated, but the de- lay occasioned by the battle probably kept Earljj from entering Washington before the re-enforce- ments sent by Grant could have opposed them. The road now ascends a grade on the west side of the Monocacy; looking over to the left from about this point, the tourist sees one of the most beautiful and fertile portions of Frederick County, known locally as the Monocacy or Frederick Valley. In the lower part of this valley, between the Monocacy on the east, a stretch of the Potomac on the south, and Catoctin Mountain on the west, is a tract of land about ten miles square, originally taken up by Charles Carroll of Carrollton, and occasionally to this day referred to as "Carroll's Manor." After a straight, level stretch of somewhat over a mile, the Fair Grounds are passed (on the right) into East Patrick Street, crossing the Northern Central R. R. at grade to the intersection of Market Street, center of Frederick. On the left-hand corner is the Citizens' National Bank, and diag- onally opposite, on the far right-hand corner, the Frederick County National Bank, both buildings lending an aspect of substantial prosperity to the business district. This is the largest city and the best place to lunch between Baltimore and Hag- erstown. Frederick, a very old place, largely settled by Germans, was always a strategic location ; through it passed one division of Braddock's army, on the way from Alexandria, Va., to Fort Cumberland in 1755, following, no doubt, a considerable pro- portion of our present route beyond Frederick, and passing through the gap in Catoctin Moun- tain at Braddock Heights, a few miles further west, joining the Virginia division still farther beyond. However, this part of the Braddock route is not as well established as that part from Cumberland to Uniontown. During the Civil War it was overrun by por- tions of both armies, and was completely occupied by the Confederates in September, 1862, when a war indemnity of $200,000 was assessed against it. The stone freight house of the B. & O. at Frederick is said to be the oldest in the world. In the southern part of the city, reached by a left turn down Market Street at the central four-corners, is the Francis Scott Key monument, well worth a brief detour to see. To the right. 20 OLD STONE BRIDGE OVER THE MONOCACY RIVER, ABOUT THREE MILES EAST OF FREDERICK, MD. The bridge is as solid as the year it was built; but the inscriptions on the "jug" or "bottle" at the eastern end have become partly illegible. Note the characteristic upgrade on the western side of the bridge. Photo by Marken & Bielfield, Frederick at the extreme upper end of North Market Street — as one would leave Frederick for Em- mittsburg and Gettysburg — is Rose Hill, the country seat of Thomas Johnson, first State Governor of Maryland, who at the outbreak of the Revolutionary War, nominated George Washington as Commander-in-Chief of the American Armies. A short distance straight ahead, now on West Patrick Street, the tourist crosses a short, steel- frame bridge over Carroll's Creek, a tributary of the Monocacy; on the left railing of it is a tablet erected to show the former location of the Barbara Fritchie house, torn down when the creek was widened some years ago. The inscrip- tion, which is quite small and can hardly be read from the car seat, is as follows: "Bravest of all in Fredericktown, She took up the flag the men hauled down." Though the weight of evidence seems to be against the authenticity of the incident made famous by Whittier's poem, the tourist will usually be interested to stop at the bridge and read the tablet. Entering the Mountains At the stone building in the prominent fork at the western edge of Frederick, our route bears right — leaving the trolley which runs along the left-hand road (Telegraph Street becoming the Jefferson Turnpike), leading to Harper's Ferry, less than twenty miles away. The road starts out level and fine; on either side are fertile farms, and ahead we catch our first view of the real mountains on this trip. About three miles be- yond we come to Braddock Village, a small place whose most prominent landmark is an old stone church, so much like the Palatine Church in the Mohawk Valley of New York State that we are not surprised to be informed by a native that it was built by the German Reformed Luth- erans from the Palatinate, many of whom settled in the beautiful Frederick and Middletown val- leys on the east and west sides of Catoctin Moun- tain. Over to the left, just beyond, is the Braddock Heights Observatory, the view from which, em- bracing the whole of the South Mountain battle- field and parts of four states, is unexcelled in that THIS INTERESTING OLD CITY IS ON THE ROUTES FROM BOTH BALTIMORE AND WASHINGTON TO HAGERSTOWN, CUMBERLAND AND WEST 21 part of the country. Almost immediately we be- gin the ascent of Catoctin Mountain, first of the several ranges to be crossed on the way to Cum- berland. A rise of 459 feet from Braddock Village to Braddock Heights is made in tes than two miles, but over so good a road that even the driver has some chance to take in the scenery. On the left, just beyond the trolley tracks, where they come closest to the road, is the Brad- -dock Spring, at the foot of the escarpment, or precipitous slope of the mountain, nearby which tradition says that Braddock's army camped on its way to Fort Duquesne. The summer colony on the heights just beyond, is supplied with water from this spring, pumped up to the hotel and cottages. Immediately after passing the spring and escarpment, the road passes through a little mountain basin before reaching the top of the mountain or Braddock Heights proper, where there is still an old toll-gate, and just beyond, on the left, a summer hotel and quite a number of cottages. Fine views are had in every direction from this summit; and it is doubly worth while to stop here for a look over to the west at the South Mountain battlefields, for while the next few miles brings one nearer to them, and, in fact, up through Turner's Gap, after descending into the Middletown Valley, the best views are cut off by the intervening hills. That battlefield be- gins where South Mountain is crossed at "Turn- er's Gap" and extends southward along the east- ern slope of the mountain about six miles to "Cramptons Gap." At this latter gap, the old war correspondent, George Alfred Townsend, bought up the land and built his famous moun- tain den and museum ; there also was erected the "War Correspondents' Memorial Arch," which can also be seen from Braddock Heights. At about the top the trolley is crossed and the road curves right, descending the equally pic- turesque western slope of Catoctin Mountain toward the substantial village of Middletown. By this time the tourist has probably noticed the occasional peaks, "knobs" or "knolls" at varying distances 'from and on either side of the road. The one over to the left (south), before enter- ing the town is known locally as "High Knob," and the one northeast "Mount Katalpa," both of which were frequently used as signal stations during the Civil War. A rather large Evangelical Lutheran Church stands on the right at about the center of Mid- dletown ; four doors west of it is the old stone house in which the late Admiral Stemble was born and raised. A short di.tance farther on is the old home of Commodore Geisinger, who fought the pirates at Tripoli and Algiers, and not far beyond that the house in which Ruther- ford B. Hayes, of Ohio, afterwards President of the United States, was nursed by a family in the village after being wounded in the battle of South Mountain. Continue on the main-traveled road through the old covered bridge across Little Catoctin Creek, about a mile beyond the town. This bridge, the only one of its kind now remaining between Baltimore and Wheeling, was built about, 1863 on the piers of the one burned by the Confederate Army during the battle of South Mountain, and looks venerable indeed. It has but a single roadway, and was put up square with the stream underneath, but zigzag with the high- way; the coming of the automobile made it prac- tically necessary to remove some of the side- timbers so that approaching traffic can be seen. OLD COVERED BRIDGE JUST WEST Ol' MIDDLE- TOWN, MARYLAND. NOTE THE STEEP RISE OF THE PIKE BEYOND From now on there is a long gradual rise, the road crossing a tributary of the Little Catoctin twice, once near the Everhart School and again at the hamlet of Bolivar. Then follows a longer, sharper ascent, part of the way on the side of the hill; this had better be taken slowly and with care, not only on account of the grade and to be prepared to pass travel from the other direction, but to enable all to enjoy the many exquisite views. Continue through the pass known as Turner's Gap to the summit of South Mountain, where stands, on the right, a large but solitary stone Catholic church, and immediately beyond it a row of six tablets, giv- ing in clear metal type on iron backgrounds, a good general idea of the movements of both Federal and Confederate armies across this sum- mit during the Civil War. 22 DETAIL OF THE ROUTE BETWEEN BALTIMORE AND HAGERSTOWN, MD. This is No. 1 reading from East to West, or No. 4 reading from West to East .^^AS^^ Lon^ straiiMaways of rolling roads'! Frequent small streanns crossed by solid culverts or bridges This is No. 2 reading from East to West, or No. 3 reading from West to East fffjO red dS,^ ^'m ^: \>fiM !« !#- ^Wer/r£'??-'|^"'' Semi-mountainous country, with many fine i/ieivs and several points or tiistorical interest This is No. 3 reading from East to West, or No. 2 reading from West to East 3) tWi- DETAIL MAP OF ROUTE FROM GREEN RIDGE THROUGH FLINTSTONE TO CUMBERLAND. MD. No. 3 traveling from Hagerstown to Cumberland, or No. 1 traveling from West to East 29 Hancock is f'hc mos^ notthcrli^ point on the Pohmac River DETAIL THROUGH HANTCOCK HANCOCK, MARYLAND, IS THE LARGEST PLACE BE- TWEEN HAGERSTOWN AND CUMBERLAND, AND AN INTERESTING, HISTORIC TOWN more & Ohio Railroad being across the river on the West Virginia side. It is also the point where one would turn south from the main pike, crossing the Potomac over a fine bridge for a side trip of about six miles to Berkeley Springs, W. Va., a popular resort since George Washing- . ton's day. Quite a number of tourists make this short but interesting detour. Leaving Hancock for Cumberland, a distance of about 40 miles, it is important to carry suf- ficient gasoline and oil for about half more than that distance over ordinary roads, as many hills must be climbed on low gear, and additional sup- plies cannot be counted upon at any intermediate point. Pass a prominent right-hand road at the farther edge of the town, keeping to the left across an iron bridge oyer Tonoloway Creek ; then gradually up-grade on the eastern slope of Tonoloway Ridge. From about this point on, the Potomac bends far southward, and is not again in sight until near Cumberland ; and, as shown graphically by the condensed map on page 9, the old road winds over a continuous series of ridges all the way across the inter- mediate territory. Traveling the Mountain Roads While the highway from west of Hancock to Cumberland is one of the most winding of its length in the United States, there is absolutely no chance to lose the way, and the most should be made of the opportunity for viewing the scenery. As shown by the detail maps on page 29, many of the various upgrades and downgrades are quite long and steep; but the curves are mostly wide and the surface fair to good throughout. With the car in good condition, and carefully driven, there is no danger, though one should not stop on the curves to view the scenery ; and it is well also to keep on the lookout for vehicles approach- ing from the opposite direction. Specific description of the different ranges crossed would be difficult at best ; and the detailed maps show the roadway over them more graph- ically than text could possibly do; so the fol- lowing paragraphs are purposely condensed. The next range west of Tonoloway, and the second one beyond Hancock, is known as Sideling Hill, which reaches an elevation of 1,633 feet just be- fore the principal curve on the summit. From this point several wonderful views are to be had, not only eastward across the valley or vast ravine between the two ridges, but also west- ward over an apparently endless extension of mountains, through which Sideling Hill Creek winds its way to the now more-distant Potomac. Higher elevations than this will be found on some of the ridges farther west; but nowhere else on the trip between Baltimore and Wheeling is there an ascent of 760 feet in a mile and a half, as on the eastern slope of Sideling Hill, or a descent of 495 feet in a single mile, as on its western slope. The latter, which starts along a ledge just beyond the summit, should be coasted (if at all), with the brake on lightly, not only on account of the grade, but especially to prepare for the very sharp left curve — almost a "horseshoe" — at the foot. While a machine beyond control would probably be wrecked on that curve, it presents no danger to the experi- enced driver who knows about it in advance. Naturally, however, the first-time traveler will experience a sense of relief at being on the easier grades between Sideling Hill and the next range. 30 Thomas Cresap, the western Maryland pioneer and afterward a member of the Ohio Company, is said to have paid an Indian £25 for widen- ing the original path over this hill, so that white men and wagons could negotiate it. That was a considerable amount in those days, and may give some idea of the work involved in the original clearing. In Fry & Jefferson's map (1755) will be found the name "Side Long Hill," from which the present Sideling Hill un- doubtedly came. Even after this long descent, the downgrade' continues about a mile to Bear Creek, which is crossed by a stone bridge, followed by a sharp left curve to the iron bridge across Sideling Hill Creek, just beyond. From occasional points of vantage on the west side of the creek, in favor- able weather the tourist may look back across the intervening valley, and see the summit of Sideling Hill, even tracing thereon some of the windings of the road passed over only a few minutes ago. Such view is likely to impress one with the courage, as well as the high engineering skill required to project and construct a through- fare like this across so great a natural barrier between the Atlantic seaboard and the Ohio River. Through Rough, Sparsely Settled Country "^ Except for an occasional very small settle- ment and an infrequent lonely schoolhouse, this is practically an uninhabited section — wild and beautiful beyond anticipation, and with a most clear, bracing atmosphere. The Western Mary- land and Baltimore & Ohio Railroads are now far to the south ; and the only connection of the few inhabitants with the outside world is by means of this old road, which under the circum- stances is kept up wonderfully well. It seems quite safe to estimate that there may be more bridges than people from the western edge of Hancock to the eastern edge of Flintstone. Even in the midst of these mountains, when- ever the nature of the country admits, the road straightens out for considerable distances, af- fording the experience of running along compara- tive levels for a half mile or mile, yielded only when it is necessary to make an ascent or descent. Between Sideling Hill Creek and the next ridge — Town Hill — there is a great deal of primitive woodland, and much scrub growth; for part of the way, also, the road is through red clay and shale. On the left, near a small bridge and just before a left-handed road, in the midst of this wild section, is a rough unpainted wood building, with a home-made sign, "Meals and Lodging"; ordinarily it is not very attractive to the motor tourist, but might be useful in case of a break- down in that locality. There is also a lodging house and country store at Piney Grove, a mile or so beyond. Now the road begins the long, j\'inding ascent of Town Hill which, though it reaches a height a trifle greater than Sideling Hill, is much more easily crossed ; from the summit there are the Photograph, Underwood & Underwood, N. Y. TYPICAL VIEW OF THE CHESAPEAKE & OHIO CANAL AND THE POTOMAC RIVER Showing the rharacter of the country traversed, and especially the high liills on both sides of what IS really a long gorge between a series of mountain ranges 31 usual fine views, then a long winding descent, with a sharp right curve part-way down. The valley between Town Hill and the next range — Green Ridge — is quite narrow; at the foot the road crosses Piney Ridge Run, a small stream, then starts almost at once up the eastern slope of Green Ridge. This is crossed at an elevation of only about 1,200 feet; then one descends a winding road, where careful driving is necessary for a sharp right — and a particularly sharp left- curve. On the western slope of this range is a wonderful apple orchard of about 50,000 trees under scientific cultivation. Green Ridge to Flintstone There shortly opens up — across the valley of Fifteen-Mile Creek — one of the most entrancing views on the entire route. In front, above and below, is a great ravine, extending as far as the eye can see; straight across to the west are the foothills of Ragged Mountain and Polish Mountain. Care should be taken for a sharp crossing this summit (1,372 feet elevation), the descent is shorter and more abrupt, with a num- ber of turns which should be taken with care; the surface, however, was almost perfect in the fall of 1914, and the views easily comparable with the best of those already had. The leisurely tourist leaving Baltimore in the morning, lunching at Hagerstown and probably intending to run into Cumberland for the night, is likely to be traveling over this portion of the old road in the late afternoon; if the sun is setting bright and strong, the view of its rays coming over the amphitheater of mountains in the western horizon is beautiful beyond description. Caution is particularly necessary in making a very sharp right turn over a stone culvert span- ning a small stream about two-thirds of the way down the western slope of Polish Mountain ; then the road is straight ahead, across Town Creek and past the little hamlet of Gilpin toward the ancient but very interesting village of Flintstone, which is what might be called the eastern out- Fhoto by ijiibert, troslburg CHARACTERISTIC VIEW AMONG THE MOUNTAIN RIDGES BETWEEN CLEAR SPRING AND CUMBERLAND Taken from the top of Polish Mountain, looking west across the valley of Town Creek to Iron Ore Ridge. The roads are mostly good, and the considerable grades are made more easily than lesser ones in some other sections right and then a sharp left curve made by the old road in its rather abrupt descent through very wild country to Fifteen-Mile Creek; this is crossed. -on an iron bridge, the road just beyond passing over some shorter hills onto a surprisingly long, level stretch, past a saw-mill on the left. The saw-mill is at least a sign of human activity so little evident on this part of the route. At about the end of this level stretch one passes, on the right, what remains of an old travern (given as "Pratt" on the U. S. Geological map, but no town), and begins the ascent of Polish Mountain, the eastern face of which is quite even and the grade moderate. But after post of Cumberland. A glance ahead before reaching the town will show a deep but very nar- row gap between Warrior's Mountain on the left, and Iron Ore Ridge on the right, with Flintstone Creek flowing peacefully and quietly through. This is known as Warriors' Gap from the fact that the Indian path, of which there are still traces on the tops of both ridges, here descended to the level of the present road. In his celebrated "Journals," already quoted, Christopher Gist mentions Warriors' Gap and Flintstone as being "on the way from the Poto- "mac into Pennsylvania," which proves them to be very old names, antedating the settlement of 32 this region by the white men. Both are shown on the map of Western Pennsylvania and Vir- gina published in 1755, no doubt largely on the basis of Gist's notes. "Flintstone" was undoubt- edly named from the flint-stones of the Indians, though confirmation of that point might be dif- ficult to obtain at this late date. So far on this trip from Baltimore and Hagers- town, the old taverns and road houses are not as frequent and conspicuous as they will be found from Cumberland through Uniontown to Wheel- ing; probably a larger percentage of them have been torn down or altered. But on the right- hand side of the road, just before the bridge at Flintstone, stands the Flintstone Hotel, known as the Piper House in stage-coach days, still catering in a very modest way to road travel. It was constructed by the contractor who built that section of the road. Overnight Amid Primitive Surroundings Making this run in the late fall of 1914, the writer found that it would be difficult to reach Cumberland on account of the growing dark- ness; and, in the mood of taking a chance, stopped in front of the Flintstone Hotel to ask if over- night accommodations could be had for three. The proprietor. Dr. A. T. Twigg, replied : "Yes, so far as we have them." Deciding to stop, the car was put up, probably in the identical shed that sheltered many a stage-coach and freight wagon, and we were taken into what was the bar-room of the hotel in the palmy days, now the doctor's office, where a warm fire quickly dispelled the chill from the last twenty miles or so over the mountain roads. A few minutes later we were sitting down to such a good old-fashioned supper as tradition says this tavern served a century ago; there was no "grace" said at this j^Of 7^ ^H ^^I^^^^B 3^' agjj^^' ajjgit LJ! ■PV iPHP :i^ A CLOSE VIEW OF THE FLINTSTONE HOTEL, 108 YEARS OLD The "Piper House" of stage-coach days, showing substantial construction and homelike appearance first meal — an incident unthought of then, but subsequently recalled. It being Sunday, upon invitation and falling in thoroughly with the custom of the place, we all attended services at the church on the side of the road which branches left near the bridge over the creek, guided safely there and back by a lantern in the hand of Dr. Twigg — for neither electricity nor gas can be found at Flintstone. Probably few of our friends would have recog- nized us in that procession. It was like taking a leaf out of the past to listen to a genuine old- fashioned sermon, and to such hymns as were sung in rural New York State and New England forty, fifty or more years ago. At least one of us instinctively found himself recalling the almost- forgotten words, and making a feeble attempt to join in with the tune. Returning to the tavern, we were shown into the living-room of the family, and while making away with some fine apples, listened to bits of in- teresting history, impossible to mention here. Growing semi-confidential," Dr. Twigg let us know that he was the only physcian in that vicinity, had been there 27 years, and up to that ^^^^^^H ■I ^^HjH^^^^^H '' ''-^^RPMUPp r f BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF THE ANCIENT VILLAGE OF FLINTSTONE, MD., IN WARRIOR'S GAP Showing character of country, and row of buildings, including the Flintstone Hotel, oi "Piper House." The actual "Gap," between Warrior's Mountain and Iron Ore Ridge, is a short distance to the right of the picture 33 time had assisted into the world 1,762 little citi- zens of Flintstone and its neighborhood — several times as many as reside there at the present time, for the great temptation, especially to young people, is to leave their homes in this beautiful mountain region, to be lost in the industrial mael- strom outside. Probably by the time this article appears in print, the number "1,762," mentioned by the good doctor, who seems to be absolutely sure of the exact count, has been materially in- creased. Being shown to our rooms by the proprietor, who had almost to be restrained by force from carrying all of our heavy baggage upstairs, after the custom of the old-time tavern keeper, we found the rooms surprisingly large and spacious — at least three times the size of those in the aver- age modern hotel. Steam heat and running water were conspicuously absent; but after throwing open the windows to admit an unlimited amount of the clear, cool mountain air, we dropped into a sound and wonderfully refreshing sleep, broken only by the call to prepare for breakfast. At that meal, we discovered that the minister boarded at the hotel; he was now with us, and of course, we all bowed our heads for "grace before meat." The minister was one of those extremely serious young men we sometimes meet ; and a member of the party "started something" by praising the sermon of the evening before. Gradually, the conversation broadened to touch upon the subject of law and order in the moun- tain villages; and it came out that Flintstone was a local option village, with nothing in the way of strong drink to be had nearer than Cum- berland. "Then," it was ventured, "everything must be quiet and orderly." "It would be," replied the minister, "except that we have no Justice-of-the-Peace nearer than Cumberland, though if it were easier to get out a warrant, we could stop some of what goes on." "What might that be?" was inquired. "Well," replied the minister, with added seriousness, "some of our people here once in a while forget themselves, and go swearing up and down the pike." We thought if that was all the wrong-doing at Flint- stone, it must be quite a model mountain village ; and' at the same time wondered if some such circumstance as this might not have originated the phrase "up" or "down the pike." One who desires to catch something of the spirit of the ancient highway would do well to stop at Flintstone, and at some of the taverns on the next section of the route, taking note of the unpretentious but very comfortable arrange- ments for old-time travelers; and if possible talk with older residents, many of whom personally remember the era of the stage-coach. In the palmy days of the old road, many famous peo- ple stopped at the Piper House, among them Henry Clay, one of the ablest champions of the project to build the Cumberland-Wheeling sec- tion across the mountains. In fact, the tourist who wishes to sleep in Henry Clay's room may do so, though the statesman's initials once carved over the door have disappeared. Last Stretch into Cumberland At Flintstone the old pike is about 12 air-line miles from the Potomac River and the two rail- roaas that closely parallel it in the vicinity of Old Town, the spot where Thomas Cresap, the earliest permanent settler in Western Maryland, built a home in 1742 or '43. The little village here in the mountains owes its very existence to the highway, even mail from points east being carried into Cumberland and brought out by motor stage. But from now on the pike, the river and the railroads gradually draw together, until they meet in the city of Cumberland. Leave Flintstone nearly due west from the stone bridge at the village center, over a fine level stretch of somewhat more than two miles to a large stone house on the right, marking the intersec- tion of the old Hancock Road (or trail) before the present highway was built. Immediately beyond the stone house begins the winding ascent of Martin Mountain, the road rising 535 feet in a trifle over a mile; there are several curves, though none as sharp as those on Sideling Hill, and the surface is excellent throughout. Over to the left on the way up^ one catches specially fine views of minor ridges and valleys, with suggestions of very small vil- lages in the distance. Just beyond the summit (1,720 feet elevation), there is a comparatively- level stretch, followed by an easy descent of the western face by long stretches of state highway^ If, as is quite likely, the motorist descending any of these ranges happens to meet a strong four- horse team hauling up a load of lumber, coal or other heavy materials, he will better appreciate the grades than being carried over them in a motor car. At about the foot of Martin Mountain our road touches the lower edge of Pleasant Valley, passing on the right "Clover Hill Farm," a well- kept place with a fine house and large barn. There are no more steep grades on this section of the trip, as the pike shortly comes along a small stream which is followed, with several crossings, to the small iron bridge over Evitt's Creek, at what was Folck's Mill, now Wolfe 34 Mill, as shown on the detail may page 29. During the Civil War a skirmish took place at this point, and one Confederate was killed. The old brick and stone mill just north of this bridge still shows the holes made by Union cannon balls fired from one of the hilltops nearer Cumberland ; and the large brick dwelling, still to be seen a short distance farther on, at the junction of the Baltimore Pike and the cross-over to the Bedford Road, was also struck and considerably damaged. Just beyond, there is a "parting of the ways" for the balance of the trip into Cumberland, both shown graphically by the detail map, page 29. In the fall of 1914, the better route was by the first right-turn beyond the small iron bridge, directly across by an excellent road, cut in part through a hillside, to its end at the Bedford Road. By taking this route and making a left-turn in front of a stone farmhouse, the tourist can fol- low Bedford Street, mostly brick pavement, straight ahead across the B. & O. R. R. (grade, dangerous) to the business center of Cumberland, at Center Street, near the city hall and post office. The old pike makes no turn beyond Evitt's Creek, but is direct past the turn-ofiE for the Bedford Road ; though not in as good condition throughout, it is at least a mile shorter and, of course, was the route followed by the stage-coach and freight wagon of long ago. In the not- distant future, it will probably be m3de at least as good as the Bedford Street entrance. Fol- lowing the old road, one curves around the edge of a minor mountain at the outer edge of the city, passing a cemetery on the right, to begin at once a rather long steady descent, from which a good view is had of industrial Cumberland. From the same point of vantage, the tourist also realizes why this busy little city in Western Maryland is literally the "Key of the Moun- tains"; sometimes it might almost seem impos- sible to go in or come out of it by any means except through the air. But gradually one catches a glimpse of the wide-sweeping Potomac, pursuing its peaceful course between the frowning hills of Maryland and West Virginia; and after a brief but closer study of the topography, Cumberland is seen to be literally a hub of transportation by road and rail, as well as the western terminus of the Chesa- peake & Ohio Canal, still a factor in the world's business life. It is also the usual night stop for a one-day trip west from Baltimore or east from Wheeling, being approximately half way from each. Hotel and garage accommodations are fair but not elaborate; the people are generally very courteous and accommodating to strangers. That city and its unique historic interests, and especially the choice of roads for the next few miles west, will be referred to at greater length in the next chapter. 35 LLOSE VIEW OF THE HISTORIC STONE BRIDGE OVER WILLS CREEK, IN THE "NARROWS," A SHORT DISTANCE WEST OF CUMBERLAND, MD. This bridge was built across the narrow valley or "gap" which cuts Wills Mountain into two sections, greatly facilitating the passage of the Alleghanies. For another view, showing the approaches on either end, and more of the surrounding topography, see page 41 ter 4: CUMBERLAND AND THE HISTORIC KOADS TOWARD FROSTBURG Cumberland the tourist is about at the beginning of the second half of the Baltimore-Wheeling trip; and in leaving that city for the West, enters upon that part of the Old Pike constructed entirely at the expense of the national government. But no one can afford to pass through this "Key City of the Mountains" without spending at least a few minutes looking around it and learning something of its extra- ordinary history. Here, at the head of naviga- tion on the Potomac, the travel of the olden days that had come so far by water had to transfer to the J^nd, making its site the most strategic of all between the East and the West. It is situated at the foot of the eastern slope of the Alleghanies, the front door to the famous "Nar- rows" and the easiest passage of these mountains between New York State and Alabama. Nowhere else in the entire country can the influence of topography upon the course of his- tory be so clearly traced ; and the interest of the trip is much increased by some knowledge of the part this locality has played, especially in the exploration and settlement of the West. By crossing the several ridges between Hancock and Cumberland, the tourist leaves behind the scenes and memories of the war between the States, and enters one of the most important sec- tions traveled and fought over during the French and Indian War, the last between the English and French for supremacy on this continent and, at least in some measure, the forerunner of the Revolution. We also come into the section— half eastern, half western — traveled and studied most carefully by George Washington throughout the greater part of his life, finding not only evidences of his great faith in the future of the West, but various examples of distinct efforts on his part to develop travel and facilitate the means of transporta- tion across the Alleghanies. In his youth, as sur- veyor of the lands of Lord Fairfax in the upper Shenandoah, he became personally acquainted with the region beyond the Potomac; this served Tiim well in the subsequent overland trips to 36 Fort Duquesne, while these experiences made him not only the efficient aide of Braddock, but the logical successor to the responsibilities of com- mand when the first campaign against the French at the "Forks of the Ohio" ended in a rout of the English and Colonial forces. Washington not only traveled the route from Fort Cumberland to the Youghiogheny and Monongahela Rivers, along the general line of the present National Turnpike, but always en- couraged, for both commercial and political rea- sons, every project for connecting the eastern rivers with those of the interior by "portages," predecessors of the highways of a later date. It is a part of the charm of this trip to feel one's self literally following in the footsteps of the "Father of his Country," though his path was often beset with difficulties and dangers; farther along we shall come to the spot where he made his first and only surrender, as a result of the failure of the Virginia expedition of 1754, the year before the defeat of Braddock. It is even a tradition that in the darkest days of the Revolu- tion, more than twenty years afterward, his thoughts were often turned toward the West, as a possible future home for himself and some of his followers in case the Colonies should fail in their struggle for independence. Further investigation will reveal the fact that Washington suggested the survey of these "west- ern" lands by the Federal Government, which though long under way, is not even yet complete ; and had figured with surprising accuracy the sav- ing of distance by this route from tidewater to the Monongahela and Ohio, Fort Duquesne, Presque Isle (Erie, Pa.), Fort Detroit and even to the then little known rivers of the Central West. His interest in the Potomac Co., genesis of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, is mentioned elsewhere in this series ; in fact, he seems to have anticipated in some degree all that has since been realized in travel and transportation across this section, excepting only the modern developments in steam and electricity. Unique Topographical Setting The outline map on pages 38 and 39 will assist the tourist making the usual quick trip over this route not only to understand the main points about present-day Cumberland, but also to ap- preciate the strategic advantage of its predecessor, the old fort after which the city was named. In connection with this local diagram, reference should be made to the topographic maps pages 29 and 48, showing graphically the succession of ridges which literally shut in Cumberland from both the East and West. The fairly level spot on which the city is situated was made possible by a sharp bend of the Potomac, which from this point takes a southwesterly course, and is not seen again on this route. On the West Virginia side, less than two miles away, Knobly Mountain reaches an elevation of 1,115 feet, with higher peaks in the background; and to the north and west, the upper and lower sections of Wills Mountain, almost equally near, rise to heights of from 1,600 to 1,800. After the long descents into the city from the summit of Martin Mountain (1,720 feet), only a few miles east, one may be surprised to learn that Cumber- land is itself at an elevation of about 640. The Potomac makes that descent on its way to the sea not only by the natural slope but through a series of falls, which the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal overcomes by an elaborate system of locks and dams. This strategic location made Cumber- land in the early days the most important point between the Atlantic seaboard and the Ohio Photograph Copyright by J. K. Lacock LOOKING WEST ALONG GREEN STREET, ON THE WEST SIDE OF WILLS CREEK, OR OLDER SEC- TION OF CUMBERLAND, MD. This was the start of the original line of travel from near the site of old I'ort Cumberland over Wills Mountain, a part of which can be seen in the distance. Now, bowever, practically all of the travel goes out either N. Center Street or N. Mechanic Street to and through the Cumberland "Narrows" 37 River ; and as long as the Potomac was used as part of the overland route to Pittsburgh, it was equally important to and through that city to Lake Erie, though the building of the Philadel- phia-Pittsburgh road by Forbes' army in 1758 made a shorter way than the older one through Cumberland. Here also the two main stems of the Baltimore & Ohio system from the West converge to make one greater line to Washington and Baltimore. Cumberland is a division point for all through business; both passenger and freight traiKc are heavy, and practically all the locomotives used are the largest of their respective types. Within the course to Connellsville, Pa., and does not again touch our route. It is worth while before leaving Cumberland to stop a few minutes at the foot of Baltimore Street, near the iron bridge over Wills Creek, and walk along the Western Maryland R. R. tracks to a point a trifle beyond the depot. From there one may see the first dam of the Potomac, near the junction of that river with Wills Creek; the dam is quite unpretentious, but it marks the westerly point of navigation from tidewater, at the very edge of the main Alleghany ridges. Nearby, also, is the first lock of the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, now used as a canal feeder only, Scale of Miles IS ,/„. / ?' \ / ,.,1 ;-''!--''ll^9^t:.S^v;^^^^#^ fc4?^)!r^;\Johns Rock'; <v-) i ,^.^ ,)'" .i^-',; A U.S.6overnment\ \\ triangulation sfation.\ •■. .. \ / ^~ % m Site of Capt. Cresapi f/gM- ''i'S^ \ '--X''^ ' V-'-AK'^J with Indians. wi7ere his son and an Indian Killed each other. / / '' = oV=w«^~Atf5?/=i5^i&c^anitoiL; •■ •' ;-.\pi'-\-^S^HPirade ••": ,■..",% /■•v ,.=. . ....„ ,„ ; ; BraddockslU-//y^ysffeofBraddoclc&K:r^^^^^ ■'■■"•■^ "ij^u^!;"''^ ■•.!";'■? / ;' i m\K\ '^(^'/■'■^/^^■'•■'^■'^■■.'X -•■Bofmm-:;,/ ^-'yf}]"';,? '■:.-■■; ,; ,•■■,■;"-■■;■"..•■-. \. ■- •,•• V\V^•.;^■f<■<^y.i/?^*:;:o••■•i^^<■--:-;i■:::^^ '»"Siteof UfS.'A.'WUtary ., .. ?, --...-■ 'e,'-' -=/ )^^^'i1^ff^ii } i r~>'^^^*w:'C-" '^-.rfiosp/tal, l86Z-65:\r-:.r . DETAIL BETWEEN CUMBERLAND AND FROSTBURG, MD., PERHAPS THE MOST limits of the "Key City of the Mountains," the tracks of'this great pioneer railway diverge, as shown by the map page 10 in the opening chapter; no more is seen of the lower one until we reach Wheeling, though we do come into the line of the upper one near Washington, Pa., and follow it the last few miles to the Ohio River. The Western Maryland, a newer railroad, of which the most is seen on this trip in the vicinity of Hancock, parallels the old pike through the Nar- rows; but at Frostburg it takes the northern the boats — still in considerable numbers — being loaded a short distance below, principally with coal from the mines at and around Frostburg. Looking across from the vicinity of the Western Maryland depot, one can see the old part of the city, through which the original line of the pike ran from near the site of Fort Cumberland by the present Green Street to and over Wills Mountain. -Before the railroads came, overland transporta- tion was a serious problem ; and water seemed to 38 be the best available and cheapest means. The Potomac was the first thoroughfare of explora- tion, travel and transportation to the West; but the fact that it could not be used beyond Cumber- land added greatly to the amount of traffic over the National Road. At the very first it was pro- posed merely to make the river navigable ; but on account of its many windings, which would make too long a route, a complete canal was found necessary. This then great work was begun in 1828 by Virginia and Maryland, and completed from Georgetown, D. C, to Cumberland, a dis- tance of 184 miles, in 1850, at a cost of about $11,000,000. Though once a vital factor in the the Ohio," and Braddock on the unsuccessful attempt to drive the French from Fort Duquesne, had already become familiar with the site of Cumberland, opposite which (on the Virginia side), the Ohio Company had erected a store as early as 1750, on lands purchased from Lord Fairfax. But the fort was not erected until 1754-55 when, after Braddock's defeat, which greatly weakened the military prestige of the Colonies, a stronghold was seen to be necessary, not only as a resting place for expeditions to and from the Ohio River, but to guard against the frequent bands of Indians crossing the hills and passing through the forests on sanguinary errands. , Barrelville/ ■•-- /'O^ '"OiL %AflD : , ; C ColmgMif iUesZ National Pike Equally good road 'r^^^msa ^ ■■r;Kreigbaui^ 'Xl ;-^:Sava|§3c (Western end of Narrows to Frost- burg) tfirougti Corriganville & Mount Savage. Original route of National J*. Pike (Cumberland to"6 mile House)' until relocated in 1835. 'WI^^W Old Braddock Road.of '^Wy which traces remain, 'f" .•■ . ,-■ v^ai>"':V -■-'"■ .■•-■■.••»'i3 ,'...-" \\ii^f .y,l\' li--- '■- '-'•■>''■■, i "^i^s' /:ii<'iS:-i:?SV«ji.''Loi/er'S Lea, vers' Leaf, Castle Rot iClJMBERLAND see city map '••''In for details r'-PC>TdJvACU roll oate ■■^^,:^^^y:r:s^;2r^~—s='=^^fil^'Teora/^aaaocKSj-. •...--. = INTERESTING AND HISTORIC ROUTE OF ITS LENGTH IN THE UNITED STATES nation's life, the canal is principally interesting to the tourist of today as a picturesque link with the past. It is now "quiet along the Potomac," except for the whistles of locomotives, the echo of automobile engines, and the subdued hum of industry within the city limits of Cumberland. Brief Historical Sketch Christopher Gist, probably the greatest of the early explorers through this section, George Washington on his first trip to the "Forks of That fort occupied a bluff on the west side of the city at the junction of the Potomac River and Wills Creek, where the Episcopal Church, a picturesque ivy-covered Gothic structure of brown sandstone, now stands. It was the real outpost of the Colonies, separated from eastern Maryland by the great barriers of mountains; and almost completely isolated, having no means of communication with the outside world except by primitive roads and the unimproved Potomac River — which gives 39 some idea of the difficulty of long-distance travel a hundred or more years ago. Being on the frontier, never well defined in those days, the ground on which it stood was for a long time claimed by both Virginia and Maryland; but in the end Virginia gave up its claim and the old fort was garrisoned by Maryland troops, though the settlements in both states, as well as those in nearby Pennsylvania, were protected by it. While the second — and successful — attempt to take Fort Duquesne from the French (1758), was chiefly from Carlisle, through Chambers- burg, Bedford and Ligonier, over much of the present Philadelphia-Pittsburgh Pike, Fort Cum- berland was again the rendezvous of the Virginia and Maryland forces, which cut a road from here to Raystown (now Bedford) in order to join Forbes' main army, though against the ad- vice of Washington, who preferred to follow the old Braddock Road, with the idea of com- bining with Forbes much nearer the present site of Pittsburgh. Soon after Fort Duquesne was abandoned, the French power was broken, and the English Colonies opened wide the door into the West ; travel and emigration increased rapidly, and Cumberland became, more in peace than in war, an important point in transportation and trade. The settlement was originally on the west side of Wills Creek, the principal houses being along the present Green Street, which helps to ac- count for the first line of the old pike being laid out that way instead of through the "Nar- rows." In 1787, when there were only 35 families in the place, the settlers around what had been Fort Cumberland petitioned the legis- lature to establish a town to be named after the fort, which was done. The first post office was established in an old log cabin on North Mechanic Street in 1795; three years later Allegany County was created and Cumberland made the county seat. It was incorporated in 1815; and grew slowly but surely in population and influence. The City and the Road The legislation creating the National Pike was very specific in its mention of Cumberland ; and this great thoroughfare to the West came to be equally well known as the "Cumberland Road" ; this is perhaps the only city in the United States today having an important through highway named for it. On the other hand, the city and section were proud of the road, western Mary- land usually sending to Congress men pledged in favor of maintaining it, even after the build- ing of the railroad lessened its relative importance. In the busy days of the pike, Cumberland was naturally the residence of many stage coach and freight wagon drivers, among them Samuel Luman, Ashael Willison, Hanson Willison and Robert Hall, substantial men in the community and honored by those who knew them. While the old drivers and innkeepers have about all passed away, quite a number of people in and about Cumberland remember them very well. Ashael Willison died only about three years ago, though the majority of those who drove on the old road, or kept taverns along it, have been gone much longer. How great the travel over the National Pike before the building of the B. & O. R. R. may be estimated froni the fact that during the first twenty days of March, 1848, 2,586 passengers were carried through Cumberland in stage coaches. One old-time resident claims to have counted fifty-two six-horse wagons in sight on the road at one time, and to have seen at least 4,000 head of western cattle quar- tered at a single place. Then came the decline, which carried it to so low a valuation that both Maryland and Pennsylvania took their part of it as a gift, only after large additional sums had been spent by the government in its improvement. Today Cumberland is the second city in Mary- land, and the largest one on our route in the Alleghany Mountains, with a population of about 23,000. It is an important industrial and com- mercial center, within twelve or fifteen miles of vast coal measures, with inexhaustible supplies of rock and fire clay of excellent quality at its doors. Brick and steel, for which the raw mate- rials are at hand or easily brought by rail, are produced in large quantities. Scientific road building, both by the state and Allegany County, have resulted in fine roads within twelve or fif- teen miles of Cumberland, toward Bedford and east and west on the pike, as well as good shale and dirt roads on the West Virginia side of the Potomac, great improvements having been made within the past five years. The city looks pros- perous and has a number of substantial buildings, especially banks. The original ford from South Mechanic Street (a short distance below Baltimore Street) to the west side of Wills Creek passed over a spot sub- sequently "filled in" to make what is now River- side Park. While of comparatively recent origin, and of no practical use to the tourist today, a glance at the photograph on page 37, and the easterly part of the local map page 39, may -•be of interest as helping to identify the original route of the National Road as specified by the 40 United States Commissioners in their Report of December 30, 1806, on the basis of which Con- gress authorized the beginning of the work. This was "from a stone at the corner of Lot No. 1, near the confluence of Wills Creek and the north branch of the Potomac River" ; or, about as closely as the spot can be identified by modern landmarks, at the northwestern corner of the park, about opposite the curve of the trolley tracks. Actual construction began at this point in May, 1811, proceeding westward along the alignment of the present Green Street to the eastern slope of Wills Mountain, the first ten miles — over the mountain and into the present line of the road past the Six-Mile House (see detail map, page 39) — being completed in Sep- tember, 1812. It was not until 1833, after the shorter but steeper way had been used for over twenty years, that the start of the National Pike out of Cumberland was re-located to use North Mechanic Street and the longer but much easier route through the "Narrows." Only the latter is known by most present-day travelers, though the former is a vital part of the old road's history. Into and Through the Narrows The usual route west of Cumberland is from Baltimore Street, the basic thoroughfare, out either North Mechanic Street (the actual Pike) or North Center Street, next parallel on the right; both are used extensively aijd shown in equal detail on the local map, page 39. Near the western edge of the city. North Center makes a short deflection into North Mechanic, the lat- ter crossing at once the Wharf Branch of the Cumberland & Pennsylvania R. R. tracks, at grade, into the famous "Narrows," perhaps the one most interesting topographical feature be- tween Baltimore and Wheeling. Here is found a practically level road along the floor of the gap or gorge, whose average width from the tow- ering heights of the two sections of Wills Moun- tain is about a half-mile at the top, sloping to 125 yards at the bottom, and 900 feet deep. Wills Creek, flowing through the center, is crossed at the eastern end of the narrows by the picturesque and historic stone bridge, of which the photograph on page 36 is a close view of the general structure and solid arches, though the smaller one on this page gives a better idea of the long, sweeping approaches, without grades, and the great hills on either side, as well as showing higher water in the Creek. This gorge, which will be quickly identified by anyone who has traveled through it by rail in daylight, pro- vided the National Turnpike with a nearly level entrance into the Alleghanies, and opened the Photograph by G. G. TowHsend, Frostburg STONE BRIDGE OVER WILLS CREEK, AT THE EASTERN END OF THE CUMBERLAND "NARROWS" In the perspective, showing the B. & O. R. R. (on the right) and the Western Maryland R. R. (on the left), with the two sections of Wills Mountains in the distance. The view is west — toward Pittsburgh or Wheeling, the two most important points this road and its connections were destined to reach. Compare this with the closer view top of page 36 41 Reproduced from Lowdermilk's "History of Cumberland" FORT CUMBERLAND IN 1755 easiest way to and over the main ridges beyond. On the right are the tracks of the B. & O., the building of which did more than anything else to take travel off the old road, and on the left the Western Maryland], the newest transporta- tion line between Cumberland and Pittsburgh. It is a matter of passing interest that the bridges on the National Road in Maryland, in- cluding the one shown in these pictures, were more than once the subject of controversy be- tween that state and the Federal government. When assenting to the change in location from the original line over Wills Mountain to the present one through the Narrows, Maryland made a condition that the part of the road em- braced in the change should be constructed of the best materials, upon the macadam plan ; that a good, substantial bridge should be built over Wills Creek at the place of crossing, and that stone bridges and culverts should be constructed wherever the same might respectively be neces- sary along the line of the road. This was a wise enactment, and as a result, many of these bridges are still as strong and as substantial as the day they were built. Years later, after the road had deteriorated, and Con- gress had decided to let it lapse back into the control i5f the several states traversed, Maryland and Pennsylvania accepted their parts only with the provision that the government should put it in good condition within their boundaries. The War Department, of which Lewis Cass was then Secretary, appealed to Congress for an appropria- tion of $600,000 to make the necessary repairs between Cumberland and Wheeling. Congress cut this down to $300,000, which led the en- gineers of the War Department to plarx a re- duction in cost by making some understructures of stone and the superstructures of wood. But this change was refused outright by Maryland, and the government had to yield ; so, in the end, the stone bridges were built, after which Mary- land took over and has since controlled its por- tion of this road. The Old Pike — which, of course, had the first choice for right-of-way — is now, as in the days of the stage coach and freight wagon, the prin- cipal gateway to the West, with no alternate pas- sage for many miles above or below. As the view shows, its roadbed is about as substantial as either of the two railways alongside. Years ago the Georges Creek & Cumberland R. R. was built as a short road to connect the mines of the Amer- ican Coal Co., in the Georges Creek district, and certain allied interests, with the main line of the Baltimore & Ohio, and the Pennsylvania R. R. in Maryland (short connecting link from Cum- berland to the main line of the Pennsylvania sys- tem at Huntington and Altoona, Pa.) ; and be- ing comparatively early in the field, was able to pick out and utilize part of this favorable route through the Narrows, on the opposite side of the Pike from the B. & O. In the course of time this right-of-way became exceedingly valuable, and when the Western Maryland R. R. desired to head off from Cumberland toward Connells- ville and Pittsburgh, the strategic location of the Georges Creek & Cumberland led to its purchase at a susbtantial figure, to become almost a neces- sary part of the new trunk line. On the right, almost opposite the old stone building now used as a storehouse by the Stand- ard Oil Co., is a prominent escarpment about 1,000 feet high, known as "Lover's Leap," from 42 which an Indian, disappointed in love, is said to have thrown himself to the bottom of the gorge. It is not recorded that this helped him to any great extent; if he had pushed the other fellow over this cliff it might have been more practical, and incidentally, more Indian. The view of the Narrows (almost a mile long) and the surround- ing country from this eminence is one of the fin- est in Western Maryland. The great, narrow defile, or "canyon," as it would be called in the Far West, now cuts the upper and lower sec- tions of Wills Mountain in two, and the old Pike continues through the Gap with scarcely a change in grade, past large sandstone boulders on either side, apparently threatening those who pass beneath, but in reality solid from one century to another. Traces of Historic Trails At the western edge of the Narrows, the old Pike passes first under the Pennsylvania R. R. in Maryland and then under the Western Mary- land R. R. ; immediately beyond the latter, it makes a decided left turn — away from Wills Creek and alongside Braddock Run (southwest fork of the Creek) — following same past Nar- rows Park and Lavale to Allegany Grove Camp Meeting Ground, the site of Braddock's first en- campment, situated in a narrow valley between the lower section of Wills Mountain (on the left) and Piney Mountain (on the right). From this point the tourist may with advantage glance back toward Cumberland, and with the aid of the map, pages 38 and 39, secure a better idea of the past and present road situation over these few miles than is possible elsewhere. At a date not entirely clear. Col. Thomas Cresap, the first permanent settler in Western Maryland, advance agent of and member of the Ohio Co., hired a friendly and honest Delaware Indian, Nemacolin, to make a way for foot travelers and pack-horses across the mountains and through the forests from Cumberland to the first point on the Monongahela, from whence navigation, impossible beyond the Potomac, could be resumed for Pittsburgh, Wheeling and the West. The dotted line across Wills Mountain on the map, pages 38 and 39, represents the route probably traveled by Nemacolin, and not long afterward by Christopher Gist, a pathfinder and explorer for the Ohio Co., in 1751-52. In his Journals, Gist mentions a gap (probably be- tween Dan's and Piney Mountains) "between high mountains about 6 miles out" and "directly on the way to the Monongahela" ; he also speaks of the roundabout trading path, which at that time he considered an inferior way. After Gist's return from his two trips of exploration, he and Col. Cresap employed Indians to open a primi- tive road over Nemacolin's trail ; and this might be called the actual beginning of the present Na- tional Pike. On November 14, 1753, George Washington, then a young Virginia lieutenant, reached the present site of Cumberland with a message from Governor Dinwiddle of that colony to the French who had come down from Quebec by the St. Lawrence River and Lake Erie to build a fort at the forks of the Ohio, where Pittsburgh now stands. Washington went immediately to Gist's house and fortunately secured that veteran woodsman as companion on the perilous journey, which was undoubtedly made over Wills Moun- tain instead of through the Narrows; a few weeks later they returned with an unsatisfactory reply from the commander at Fort Duquesne, and the French and Indian War followed. This added new importance to the route, for at least during 1755 it was more amilitary highway than one of trade and peaceful expansion toward the West. Braddock's army, in which were both Wash- ington and Gist, started west over Wills Moun- tain, but so great difficulties were encountered that the general reconnoitered the locality, and CO>fDENSED TOPOGRAPHY SHOWING THE SEVERAL DISTINCT RIDGES AND PRINCIPAL STREAMS CROSSED BY THE NATIONAL PIKE BETWEEN CUMBERLAND, MD., AND UNIONTOWN, PA.— LIKE A SURVEY FROM THE HEIGHTS, TAKING IN THE WHOLE 43 in three days opened the easier way through the Narrows of Wills Creek, by which troops and supplies were afterwards transported. It is some- what curious that after Braddock's experience, the government engineers should in 1811 have first laid out the National Turnpike over the mountain at a low point known as Sandy Gap, instead of through the Narrows, as was done in the re-location of the first six miles in 1833. These two routes once forked a few rods west of the Six-Mile House, but traces of the older one have now nearly disappeared. The old tavern known as the Six-Mile House ("Gwynne's" in pioneer days) was burned down several years ago, and the building erected in its stead is an unpretentious private house ; its site can be identified by the mileage, and also by the good road branching left nearly opposite (to- ward the village of Cresaptown, Md.) This is known locally as the "Winchester Road," run- ning through Cresaptown to a connection with the road south from Cumberland on the east side of Knobly Mountain. It is a very old route, known as early as Braddock's expedition, and is considerably used nowadays by motorists travel- ing from Frostburg and vicinity through Alaska (Frankfort) to the South Branch of the Poto- mac, without going through Cumberland. South Branch is very popular with campers and fishermen during the warm weather, its many cottages and bungalows being occupied by people from Western Maryland and elsewhere. The South Branch of the Potomac is a very beautiful river; many fine black bass are caught there, and a great many innocent angle worms meet a watery grave. It must also have been a popular resort with the Indians, for arrowheads and spears are still found in the surrounding fields. Beyond the branching off of the "Winchester Road" one looks up the gorge of the Braddock Run straight ahead into the mountains, and there is a renewed consciousness of speeding toward the West. On the left, a short distance beyond, is the old toll-house, location shown on the map on page 39, the only one of its type now standing on this route in Maryland. The old posts, once a part of this toll-gate, were removed from their original places and can now be seen in the low retaining wall at the back base- ment entrance to the Court House in Cumberland, about 20 feet from the building. They are four-sided iron posts about nine or ten feet high ; both are in a good state of preservation, rather imposing, and interesting relics of former days. Clarysville and War-Time Memories By this time the tourist will begin to see more of these old iron mile-posts, though quite a num- ber of the originally complete series have disap- peared. Continue on the good road with trolley, mostly along the Eckhart Branch of the Cumber- land & Pennsylvania R. R., passing, on the left, the Cumberland & WeUernport power house and rhotograplt by H. Laney TOLL HOUSE, BETWEEN SIX AND SEVEN MILES WEST OF CUMBERLAND, AND MR. CADY THE LAST KEEPER TQ- COLLECT TOLLS The road past this place is now in first-class condition, and much wider than when this photograph was talcen 44 Photograph Copyright by J. K. Lacock CLOSE VIEW OF THE CLARYSVILLE HOTEL, AS IT STANDS TODAY ON THE OLD PIKE, ABOUT NINE MILES WEST OF CUMBERLAND trolley barns, to the three corners at the scat- tered village of Clarysville. This is easily iden- tified by the illustration on this page of the old Clarysville Hotel, one of the best preserved on this part of the route, and once considered a "large and commodious" tavern. It is said to have been built about 1810 or 1812 by Gerard Clary, who came from Baltimore County, Maryland, and married a Miss Wad- dell, whose father owned a tract of land at or near Allegheny called "Waddell's Fancy." If it was built as early as that, it may have been originally on the older Braddock Road, just where it turned from Braddock Run to go up Flaggy Run toward Hoffman Hollow, through which it climbed to the top of the ridges south of Grahamton and Frostburg. The relative location of most of these is shown on the detail map, page 38; Flaggy Run heads at Vale Sum- mit, a short distance below that map, but a branch of it comes down through Hoffman. Clary conducted this tavern during part of the old Pike days. Here, from the second year of the war between the states to its end, was located one of the most important U. S. A. hospitals for convalescent soldiers, with the several frame buildings grouped largely around, though principally in front of the hotel, as shown in the illustration, page 46. The first building to the right of the tavern was the dispensary, the name of which can be seen on the original photograph, though almost lost in the reproduction. . To the right of the dispensary was the guard house, a small stone building, the bot- tom floor of which was used as a dead house. The building to the left of the tavern, with the horse and buggy in front, was the residence of Dr. J. Bu Lewis, Surgeon, U. S. Volunteers, in charge of the hospital. On the opposite side of the Pike from the tavern a horse will be noticed., tied to the rail- ing. The horse belonged to Dr. M. M. Town- send, a practicing physician who had charge of several of the wards until the close of the war. Officers' quarters, the dining room and office were in the old tavern ; the long frame buildings, about 100 feet by 18 feet, were sick wards, each having two rows of iron cots, with an aisle down the center. After the war all these temporary structures were torn down and sold, the iron bed- steads being bought and used quite generally throughout that part of the country. Though the picture is generally true to life, the artist erred badly in putting a wood-burning stack on an, engine used in the heart of the coal regions., and also in showing hard-coal cars on a railway hauling only soft coal, but the old pas- senger coach is a faithful reproduction. It was painted red, had two hand-brakes at one end and one at the other; it was run by gravity from Eckhart, the next town on our route, to the Narrows, west of Cumberland, and only coupled on to the coal train to be hauled into that city. G. G. Townsend, son of Dr. M. M. Townsend, and now of Frostburg, traveled on this railroad for four years while attending the Allegany Co. Academy at Cumberland, and was often allowed to "run the car," especially near election time, when the conductor was inclined to talk politics with the passengers. After the coming of the trolley the old car served some time as a caboose and was then dispensed with. 45 MRS. M. E. TOVVNSEND, OF FROSTBURG, MARYLAND Who suggested Clarysville ,as the site of the U. S. General Hospital. Still living, in excellent health, in her 84th year In looking up data concerning the war-time hospital at Clarysville, the writer discovered that the first suggestion to locate it there was made by Mrs. Mary E. Townsend. Though in her 83rd year, Mrs. Townsend wrote from Frostburg in January, 1915, clearly in her own handwriting, the following account of how the hospital came to be located there: "I remember perfectly the first time I went to Cumberland to see my husband after he went into the hospital there. It was in Dr. George B. Sukely's room, and he said to my husband : 'Can't you think of some place near here where these convalescent men, who are not improving in this dreadful heat, could be transferred?' I did not wait for my husband to reply, but said I knew of the very place, eight and one-half miles from Cumberland, in a delightful valley I came through this afternoon — the finest spring water, a large wagon tavern, several houses and three large barns not used for years. I went on to de- scribe it as surrounded by woods, with rocks to sit on, and the air delightfully cool. "It took Dr. Sukely's idea at once, and he pro- posed going to see it, which he did, and found it just the thing. The next day the barns were cleaned and fresh hay put on the floor; then the men were taken up in their blankets and laid on the floor. Many said they had never slept so well; it proved an ideal spot and hundreds of men were saved by the easy transfer. The 1,100 feet greater elevation and the pure water made a great difference. "My husband. Dr. M. M. Townsend, had charge of it at first, and everything possible was done for the comfort of the men; but it was found that an army officer must be employed to take charge of the hospital. Dr. Townsend was not willing to go into the army^ and Dr. J. B. Lewis, who brought his wife, three children and his mother-in-law, was employed. Eight govern- ment wards were erected, the few houses fitted up and physicians employed. Dr. Lewis' family and myself were all interested in the convalescent men and did what we could for their comfort; at one time there were over 2,000 in the hospital." OLD PRINT OF U. S. A. GENERAL HOSPITAL AT CLARYSVILLE, MD., IN 1862-1864 The Old Pike makes a right curve at about the cetfTer of the picture. Clarysville Hotel (standing today) is seen just left of the flagstaff 46 Chapter 5: CLARYSVILLE, MARYLAND, THROUGH FROSTBURG AND GRANTSVILLE, TO THE PENNSYLVANIA LINE T Clarysville the National Pike, which follows the older Braddock Road most of the way from Alle- gany Grove, leaves that route (which kept more nearly straight west through HofiEman, as shown by the map page 38) by turning right across a fairly long stone bridge. Immediately beyond it begins a considerable ascent, with a left curve below the Eckhart mines, crossing the Cumberland & Penn- sylvania tracks into Eckhart, whose most con- spicuous landmarks are the mining operations of the Consolidation Coal Co. We are now enter- ing one of the most interesting bituminous coal producing sections of the United States; in fact, one of the very first mines of the now celebrated Georges Creek coal was at Eckhart. In the earliest days, the coal was hauled by wagon to Cumberland, where it was put onto flat-boats and keel-boats, to be sent in time of high water down the winding Potomac to Georgetown (D. C). There it was unloaded and the flat-boats broken up to sell for lumber, though some of the keel-boats were brought back and loaded again. This was before the Chesa- peake & Ohio Canal was built, and one has only to note again the many windings of the Potomac, as shown on the map top of page 9, to realize the difficulty of getting coal to market with such primitive means of transportation. At Mount Savage, on the upper one of the two roads between Cumberland and Frostburg (see map page 48), were rolled the first rail- road rails in the United States, in cross-section resembling an inverted U. Some of these were used on the Eckhart R. R.,, and old-timers say that they could tell by the different sound the moment the car struck them. At that time Mount Savage was a promising industrial center, operating two large blast furnaces and quite large rolling mills. It now has large fire brick and enameled brick works. Beyond Eckhart the Pike continues on a fairly steady ascent, along with the trolley, past the Eckhart Farm, with many fine views, especially over to the left and back toward Cumberland, into Union Street, the main street of Frostburg. Entering the town, there is a comfortable stretch of brick, followed by a rather steep upgrade on rough stone pavement, to the business center at Broadway, an intersection easily identified by the First National Bank and the Citizens National Bank on opposite left-hand corners. Just beyond — see map, page 48 — is the Gladstone Hotel, on the right, and a little farther along the Post Office. Frostburg is a substantial, prosperous-looking place, with a population of about 8,000 within the corporate limits,, and from 10,000 to 12,000 within a one-mile radius. It is situated on top of the divide between the waters of Jennings Run on the north and Georges Creek on the south, that ridge connecting the base of Dans Mountain on the southeast with that of Big Savage Mountain on the northwest. Rain fall- ing on the right, or north, side of Union or Main Street finds its way into Jennings Run, and thence to Wills Creek and the Potomac at Cum- berland; water from the south side of Union or Main Street runs into Georges Creek, and reaches the Potomac at Piedmont, W. Va. Frost- burg has an elevation of 2,100 feet, pure moun- tain spring water, magnificent mountain scenery in all directions, a fine summer climate, and many miles of good road. From Cumberland to Frostburg by the Na- tional Road is only eleven miles, and about the same by the State Aid Road, also shown on the map page 48, through Corriganville and Mount Savage, though by the Western Mary- land R. R. the distance is fifteen miles. It is worthy of note that many of the principal towns between Cumberland and Wheeling grew up along the old Pike about twelve miles apart. The two leading taverns in Frostburg at the height of popularity of the road were the "Franklin House" and "Highland Hall," the locations of both of which are shown on the local map page 48. The "Franklin House" site is now occupied by the First National Bank, on the south side of Union Street and the east side of Broadway. "Highland Hall" stood about where the Roman Catholic rectory now stands, and was one of the most popular and noted taverns along the road. The once sharp competition between the regu- lar freight and passenger traffic lines naturally brought rival ones into existence. Searight's History of the "Old Pike" mentions the Franklin House and Highland Hall, but not the McCul- loh House, though the latter was conducted as a 47 FOR DETAILS BETWEEN CUMBERLAND AND FROSTBURG, SEE MAP EXTENDING ACROSS PAGES 38-39 tavern much later than either of the others. This stood on the south side of the Pike, almost facing the road leading from Union Street to the C. & P. depot and Mount Savage; it was a large, two-story brick building, with a broad porch on its front and east sides, the one on the east overlooking the large stage and wagon yard that extended back to the barn where the stage horses were kept. Teams were changed here and elsewhere about every twelve miles along the route. The remodeled building is now used as a general store, owned by Shaffer Bros. Glance at Transportation Facilities The vast tonnage of this region finds its way, especially to tidewater markets, through several channels, largely at first over the Cumberland & Pennsylvania R. R., which, with the Consolida- tion Coal Co., a subsidiary of the B. & O., passes through almost a continuous town in the Georges Creek valley from Frostburg to Lonaconing, con- necting with the parent system both at Mount Savage Junction above, and at Piedmont below. Frostburg is the highest town in the district; then, farther south, on lower elevations, are Bor- den Shaft, Midland and Ocean to Lonaconing, about at the center of the mining region and headquarters for several of the producing com- panies, situated in the valley 225 feet below the Georges Creek Big Vein. Mount Savage Junction (see map above), where the B. & O. R. R. turns the corner for Connellsville and Pittsburgh, is a great transfer MAP SHOWING THE ROUTE OF THE NA- TIONAL PIKE THROUGH FROSTBURG AND PRIN- CIPAL POINTS OF IN- TEREST IN THAT CITY 48 point for coal, east and north. Not only does the Cumberland & Pennsylvania bring a heavy tonnage to that point from the full length of the Georges Creek valley, but it also makes connec- tions with the Pennsylvania system from its junc- tion with that railroad at Ellersie, jVId., just north of Corriganville and on the Mason and Dixon line. The Georges Creek & Cumberland, running between Cumberland and Lonaconing, without going through Frostburg, is now a part of the Western Maryland system, and delivers its tonnage to that road at Cumberland. Considerable of the coal mined in this district still goes to Cumberland and then down the Po- tomac by the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, now controlled by the B. & O. Boats carrying about 110 tons each make the trip from Cumberland to Georgetown, D. C, or Alexandria, Va., in from four to five days over the water route, in which Washington was so much interested both before and after the Revolution. In the very early days some of the coal from this district was hauled south to Westernport and thence boated along the north branch of the Potomac, but that is done no more. In and around Frostburg are many points of interest if the tourist has time to look them up. From Dans Rock, on the summit of Dans Mountain (named for Daniel Cresap, son of the pioneer. Col. Thomas Cresap), about seven miles southeast of Frostburg, is had one of the finest views in the Appalachians, embracing parts of Maryland, Pennsylvania and West Virginia, and an especially long stretch of the north branch of the Potomac. It is, however, difficult to reach by motor, though sooner or later the county or state will probably build a good road to that point. One of the two Maryland State normal schools is located at Frostburg, and also the Miners' Hospital, built and maintained in co-operation be- tween the state, city and mining companies. The hospital stands on an elevation overlooking the Jennings valley, by which the upper one of the two routes from Cumberland enters Frostburg, and commands a magnificent view. Both this and the State Normal School are located on the map, page 48, which also shows how the con- necting route down the Georges Creek valley leaves Union Street by Grant Street, at the east- ern end of Frostburg. Resuming the trip, leave Frostburg northwest on Union Street, up a slight grade and over a short stretch of brick, coming again onto the macadam of the old Pike. There is now an un- expected but rather steep downgrade, in the course of which the car used in taking these notes passed a four-horse team laboring slowly up with a wagon of heavy logs, apparently as was done three-quarters of a century ago. After crossing the small stream at the foot, one begins the ascent, which is not ended until the summit of one of the main Allegheny ridges is reached at Big Savage Mountain. Midway of this ascent the view on this page was taken ; on the south side of the road and Photograph Copyrighted by J, K. Lacock LONG, STEADY GRADE ON THE EASTERN SLOPE OF BIG SAVAGE MOUNTAIN AND ORIGINAL GATE-POSTS On the left is the site of the second brick toll-house west of Cumberland. The roadway is now in perfect condition 49 just west of the two iron posts, where the two men are standing, is the site of the second brick toll house west of Cumberland. The boundary line between Allegany and Garrett Counties as shown on the map, page 48, passes just west of where that old toll house stood, though a more recent survey of the boundary line between the counties passes about half a mile west of that point. Garrett County was made from the western portion of Allegany in 1872, and the two have since then had considerable trouble over the dividing line, which is supposed to be from the mouth of the Savage River at its junction with the Potomac, near Piedmont, W. Va., by a straight line along the backbone of Big Savage Mountain to the Mason and Dixon line, at the southern border of Somerset County, Pa. In ascending the long steady grade on the eastern slope of Big Savage Mountain, a won- derful view unfolds over to the left; and it will repay the tourist to watch for the road built by private subscription, just at the crest, leading to St. John's Rock. This is shown as a spur from the old Pike on the map, page 38; the "rock" has an elevation of 2,930 feet, or 50 feet above the point where the main road crosses the summit of Big Savage Mountain. From the rock, and to a large degree also from the Pike, one may look back and see Wills Mountain, the Narrows, Sandy Gap, Dans Mountain and Frostburg. Photograph by Gilbert, Frostburg ST. JOHN'S ROCK (VIEW LOOKING SOUTH) JUST OFF THE ROAD FROM FROSTBURG TO THE SUMMIT OF BIG SAVAGE MOUNTAIN This rock has an elevation of 2,930 feet, and commands one of the finest views in Western Maryland Up to the time that a road is constructed to Dans Rock (as mentioned in a preceding para- graph), the view from St. John's Rock is prob- ably the finest on this trip. W. E. G. Hitchens, G. G. Townsend, and other public-spirited motorists of Frostburg, have been principally instrumental in raising the money necessary to build the road, which leads directly to the rock, around which there is ample space for leaving or turning cars. About 800 feet south of the rock is a low point where the mountain was crossed by Braddock's Road ; an old wood road in fair condition leads to it, and the distance can either be walked, or a car can be taken over it with- out much difficulty. On THE Allegheny Summits. Just beyond the sideroad to St. John's Rock, the Pike makes a right curve at 2,880 feet ele- vation, almost 1,000 feet above Frostburg; this is the actual summit of Big Savage Mountain which, with Negro Mountain and Keysers Ridge, both farther along, are the three highest points between Baltimore and Wheeling. Then there is a gradual descent of the western slope to cross a stone bridge over Savage River; and a corresponding ascent, this time up Little Sav- age Mountain, which is 120 feet lower than Big Savage. One can easily imagine that the wind blows up strong at times across these heights; and, looking either ahead or behind, the layman is apt to wonder that a road of so relatively easy grades could be laid out across this sort of country. On the right, immediately beyond Little Sav- age, is the farm of Thomas Johnson, a de- scendent of the first state governor of Mary- land ; his house is at the fifteenth mile-post west of Cumberland or the fourth beyond Frostburg. Nearly opposite, but a trifle father west, are Mr. Johnson's spacious barns; the larger one shown in the view on page 51 is at the beginning of the longest straightaway so far on the Pike west of Cumberland. This was known in stage coach days as the "Long Stretch," a continual succession of up and down grades, but without any deviation from a direct line for two and a half miles — naturally longer to the freight wagon driver of three-quarters of a century ago than to the motorist of today. Eight-tenths of a mile beyond the west foot of the Little Savage Mountain, and 65/100 mile beyond the Johnson house, our route crosses Fishing Run, the first northward-flowing stream, the waters of which find their way into the Monongahela, 50 Photograph by Gilbert, Frostburg LOOKING DOWN THE WESTERN SLOPE OF LITTLE SAVAGE MOUNTAIN. ACROSS RED RIDGE TO MEADOW MOUNTAIN (IN THE EXTREME DISTANCE) The farm-house on the right-hand side of the road in the middle distance is owned by Thomas Jolinson, descendant of the first state governor of Maryland Ohio, the Mississippi and ultimately into the Gulf of Mexico. The road could easily have been built some- what around rather than straight across some of these ridges, at the same time securing more uniform and lighter grades; but that would not have been in keeping with the letter of the law which created the National Turnpike. One traveling this "long stretch" is reminded of the earlier part of the trip between Baltimore and Hagerstown, except, of course, this section is much more hilly. The next few miles are over lesser ranges and across minor streams, as shown by the map on top of page 48 ; and one needs to keep a lookout for the next point of interest, best identified by a clump of trees on the north side of the road about three and a half miles from the western foot of Little Savage Moun- tain. Here it is still possible to see where and how Braddock's Road crossed the National High- way; near this point also the third brigade of Braddock's army camped on June 15, 1755. Less than a quarter mile west was the "wagon stand" kept as early as 1830 by John Recknor, beyond which begins the long descent — -about 260 feet in a mile — to Two-Mile Run, a small stream crossed by a short stone culvert. The long "hollow" on either side of this was once com- monly known as the "Shades of Death," from the dense forests of white pine which formerly covered the region, making a favorable shelter for hostile Indians and shutting out nearly all of the sunlight even on a bright summer day. Old wagoners who drove from Baltimore to the Ohio River or beyond dreaded this locality as the darkest and gloomiest place along the route; and it was the scene of one or more "hold-ups." But the once-splendid white pine forests in this part of Garrett County were cut down, sawed up and shipped to market long ago; so the "Shades of Death" became no more, though it is only a few years since the last mill made into shingles what was left of the pine. Many of the larger stumps are still in the ground, and others were built into the stump fences so characteristic of a once heavily-wooded country; most of these fences have begun to decay from their exposure of a generation or more to the elements. About one mile west the road makes a dip to the small stream known as Red Run, and immediately thereafter ascends the eastern slope of Meadow Mountain. In this valley is the small hamlet of Piney Grove, also named from the pine trees once covering this entire section. Meadow Mountain — The "Dividing Ridge" Here at an elevation of 2,792 feet (slightly less than Big Savage Mountain already crossed, and Negro Mountain and Keysers Ridge, a few miles ahead), the old Pike passes over the divid- 51 ing ridge between the Atlantic and Mississippi Valley watersheds. The feeling of approaching the West grows still more upon the tourist. On the north side of the road is a fenced enclosure likely not to be noticed at speed unless one is on the lookout for it, marking the resting place of an unknown soldier, who is said to have been mur- dered for the pension money he was carrying home from Washington. The fairly long descent of the west slope of Meadow Mountain brings one to an almost im- perceptible stream, Meadow Run, immediately beyond which — after a short rise — ^the tourist comes to one of the most interesting old houses still standing in good condition on the National Turnpike. Historically this is known as the Jesse Tomlinson House, at "Little Meadows," the latter name used in the official records of the Braddock expedition to indicate the site of Braddock's fourth encampment; the house is on the north side of the road and built of local stone, painted white, which renders it visible from a considerable distance as one travels west. Tomlinson first kept a tavern on the Old Brad- dock Road; but on completion of this section of the National Pike in 1815, he built this larger place, which, with an estate of over 1,200 acres, is now owned by D. F. Kuyendall of Cumber- land. James K. Polk dined at this old tavern on his way to be inaugurated president of the United States in 1845. Now the Pike makes a short but rather steep ascent of Chestnut Ridge, Maryland (Chestnut Ridge, Pennsylvania, is just east of Union- town) ; from the top^2,677 feet elevation — the tourist may look ahead across the fine valley of the Castleman River and see Grantsville in the distance. The next two and a half miles are down a long easy grade, near the foot of which one crosses the Jennings Brothers' local railroad and comes to the picturesque stone bridge shown in the illustration, page 54. At the time it was built this was said to have been the largest single span bridge of rubble stone masonry in the United States; it is a noteworthy structure today, with careful, mechanically turned arches, giving a very artistic appearance. The old Stanton Mill, which may yet be seen in operation on the north side of the Pike just east of the bridge, was erected by Jesse Tomlin- son, who also built the stone house at "Little Meadows," and was for some time a saw-mill and grist-mill combined. It will repay anyone to stop and leave the car long enough to ex- amine this stone arch bridge from underneath, and see what a substantial, well-proportioned example of masonry it is; though the structure was extensively repaired a few years ago, its present condition testifies to the thoroughness of the original work. From underneath the bridge there is also a view of the ford, about a hundred yards to the south, where Braddock's army crossed the Castleman on its way toward Fort Duquesne in 1755; in dry weather it is a shallow place, with many stones, and occasionally a part of the bottom shows above the quietly flowing water. DESCENT TO TWU-MILK KU\, THE SECOND NURTHVVAKD l-LOWINC. STREAM BETWEEN BIG SAVAGE MOUNTAIN AND MEADOW MOUNTAIN; A LESSER RANGE, RED RIDGE, SEEN IN THE DISTANCE The hollow which the automobile is approaching was called the "Shades of Death" by the old stage coach and freight wagon drivers on .account of the heavy pine forests almost darkening the road 52 In the days of the stage coach and freight wagon, this bridge was popularly known as "Little Crossings," to distinguish it from the "Big Crossings" of the Youghiogheny at Somer- field. Pa., farther along. The Castleman is a tributary of the Youghiogheny, and the latter of the Monongahela, the waters from all of which flow into the Ohio at Pittsburgh. Across the Pike from the old Stanton Mill was once a tavern stand, said to have been a very popular stopping place; after having been shortened twenty feet at each end, and the old white pine logs weather-boarded over, it is still a large, homelike and most comfortable house, owned and occupied by Uriah Stanton. In and About Grantsville West of the Castleman, the Pike makes the usual ascent, bringing one quickly into Grants- ville, the most important point so far west of Frostburg, and a popular stopping place in the olden days. The original town, which was founded over a century ago by Daniel Grant, is said to have been on the Braddock Road, one mile from the river, which would place it about half a mile west of the present location, or approximately a quarter mile south of where the county road branches to the right at the top of the hill. When Garrett County was cut off from Allegheny, Grantsville came near to selection as the county seat; but it lost to Oakland an account of the latter being more central and also on the B. & O. R. R. Its situation is very similar to that of Frostburg; each is about in the center of a coal basin, and both are on high ridges between two mountains forming the eastern and western limits of those areas. But the coal in the Salisbury basin, in which Grantsville is situated, has only been profitably worked in its upper portion, near the towns of Salisbury and Meyersdale, Pa., and farther north. Grantsville is 2.351 feet above sea level, and has three hotels, of which the Castleman House is a solid old brick structure on the right at the milepost "25 M." from Cumberland or "106 M." from Wheeling. It stands well back from the road in a plot of ten acres, and was long known as the Steiner House, from the name of the old-time builder and proprietor. On the left, farther along, is the Victoria and then the National, the latter the oldest hotel site in the village; one also notices two substantial banks for a place of only about 300 population, but the country in and about Grantsville is largely inhabited by substantial farmers. t^hotograph Copyright J. A. l^ai,itck THE JESSE TOMLINSON HOUSE AT "LITTLE MEADOWS;" ONE OF THE FINEST PLACES ON THE OLD ROAD TODAY, AND WIDELY KNOWN AS THE "STONE HOUSE" View looking down the west slope of Meadow Mountain; in the distance the beginning of the next ascent toward the Castleman River After going over a minor ridge, just west of Grantsville, the road dips into a considerable hollow, at the foot of which we cross Big and Little Shade Run, both small tributaries of the Castleman ; on the left, and in plain view from the highway at this point is the site of Brad- dock's fifth encampment. Then there is a right curve, just as the Pike starts its winding ascent of the eastern slope of Negro Mountain, requir- ing a climb of 687 feet in slightly over two miles to the summit at an elevation of 2,906 feet. Braddock's Road was cut over this moun- tain in 1755, and the scar left by it is quite plain today. From the top there is another interesting view, but hardly as fine as from St. John's Rock on the summit of Big Savage. Negro Mountain, the second one of the three highest points on this trip, rises by a narrow margin above either of its rivals, being generally considered the very backbone of the Allegheny system in Western Maryland. In the "Life of Capt. Michael Cresap," by his adopted son, John J. Jacob, the author states that Negro Mountain received its name from the fact that a gigantic negro, who accompanied the old fighter and his two sons, Daniel and Michael, was killed there in Cresap's last fight with the Indians. Shortly before this-. Captain Cresap and a party of volunteers had ati encounter with the redskins on the Braddock road at the west foot of Savage Mountain, in which his son Thomas confronted an Indian, and both firing at the same time was killed, but succeeded in mortally wounding his antagonist. 53 Photograph by Gilbert, Frostburg LOOKING EAST ALONG THE NATIONAL PIKE AT "LITTLE CROSSINGS" (CASTLEMAN RIVER) In the distance can be seen the long, steady grade up Chestnut Ridge (Maryland) Noting the wildness of this section, even at the present day, it is not difficult to imagine that in the time of Gist, Cresap, Washington and Braddock, this almost primeval mountain wilder- ness was inhabited by wild animals. Meshach Browning, in his "Forty Years of the Life of a Hunter," says that the country about Castleman River was the best hunting ground he knew of for bear and deer. That was, of course, before the Pike was built, and all that country was full of large and small game of all kinds. Browning lived near Oakland, on the Youg- hiogheny and in his time killed hundreds of bear and deer. In his "Journals," Gist mentions killing a buffalo on his way from Wills Creek (Cumberland) to the Ohio in 1751, and of see- ing a herd of elk which he estimated at thirty. At another time he speaks of searching for a suitable night camp, finding an overhanging rock ai.d under it a panther, which he scared away and made the spot ready for a night's repose. Even now, some wild animals are found in the more secluded districts of Western Maryland, though none are likely to be observed by the aver- age through tourist on the main pike. Wood- cock, gsOuse, partridges, turkeys and smaller game are, however, common enough and are seen frequently from the road. Over Keyser's Ridge and into Pennsylvania From the long grade on the western slope of Negro Mountain, there is a splendid view of Keyser's Ridge, a bald, bleak range next beyond ; at the foot of the descent one crosses a "hollow," at the bottom of which is a stone bridge over Puzzley Run. Then follows an upgrade along the eastern slope of Ke}'ser's Ridge, the last one of the three extreme heights on this route; though there has been a succession of up and down grades most of the way from the Cumberland Narrows, the net rise of more than 2,000 feet, proves the gradual climb to the Allegheny summits on this route. In the olden days this section was "snowed up" oftener than any other stretch on the road, sometimes to a depth of twenty feet, stopping stage coaches and freight wagons for days at a time. At the very top of Keyser's Ridge, the Ac- cident & Oakland Pike branches left from the National Highway, passing through a very beau- tiful and interesting country to Oakland, the county seat of Garrett County, making not only a very popular run from Cumberland and Frost- burg, but also a detour fully worth while for the leisurely tourist over the old pike from the East or West. This sideroad also opens the way to Mountain Lake Park and Deer Park, fine little resort towns in the glades of the Al- leghenies, a few miles below, and only about 300 feet lower than Keyser's Ridge; and also makes an important connection into Northern West Virginia. There are fine views over to the left; the road is wide and good, and one descends a long easy grade to a short stone bridge over a tribu- tary of Mill Run, the last stream in Maryland. Just beyond is the state line, which is also the Mason and Dixon line, extending across the Pike as shown in the illustration, page 55; the moderate upgrade in the background is the eastern slope of Winding Ridge, in reality a con- tinuation of the western slope of Keyser's Ridge. 54 On the right is one of the most interesting sign- posts along the entire route; time and the ele- ments have partly obliterated the lettering, though it is still possible to read most of it. Originally the wording on the east side was: "State Line, Penna. 34^ to Cumberland, to Frostburg 2334-" The larger figures are still quite plain, though the fractions have become dim. It is quite likely that the tourist who has made this trip from Baltimore through Frederick, Hagerstown, Cumberland and Frostburg, across the fulHength of the "old line state," will leave it with some regret. With very few, short ex- ceptions, the road is nearly perfect throughout; it is literally a highway of history, and in the course of about 175 miles one traverses a sec- tion of unusual topographical variety, from the levels of Chesapeake Bay to the three highest elevations on the Allegheny Mountains on this route. There is not an uninteresting mile on the whole trip, but a constant succession of cul- tivated fields, meadows, woods and mountains. The student of road building will notice the large amount of limestone in Central and especially Western Maryland ; engineers and contractors there say that limestone macadam stands the heavy traffic over the National Pike better than any other material, not excepting concrete, of which several miles were laid near Cumberland in 1913. When warm days follow extremely cold weather, melting the snow and Photograph Copyri-ht J. K. Lacock LOOKING WEST AT OAKTON (ON U. S. SURVEY SHEET) OR STRAWN, PA., P. O. The downgrade in the foreground is in Maryland, but the upgrade in the background in _ Pennsylvania. East and west across the road just this side of the buildings runs the Mason and Dixon line '■ 'if- : -J* '•\4 L. i J* ' V ^Hl HlHI 1 1 Cl' ■flNTO Aorf a'i ,. .,., ,,„ _ ^^ 1^ i^ppp < T'--*- "m. TABLET SET INTO THE FACE OF A LARGE ROCK ON THE RIGHT-HAND SIDE OF THE PIKE, A SHORT DISTANCE WEST OF THE PENNSYLVANIA- MARYLAND STATE LINE. SEE DETAIL MAP, PAGE 57 ice, the water runs under the concrete; then very likely it freezes and cracks the concrete so that the road crumbles in the spring. But a well- built limestone road will not freeze to a depth of more than two or three inches, which is not enough to bulge up and crack the surface. Something the West Owes to Maryland Before leaving Maryland it might be well to recall that the state was not only always on one of the great lines of travel to the West, both by road and rail, but that it was largely instrumental in shaping a national policy favor- able to the creation of new states beyond the Allegheny Mountains and the Ohio River. While one of the thirteen original states, and the seventh to join, casting its lot in with the others during the Revolution, it delayed formally signing the confederation of states until Virginia, Massachusetts, Connecticut, New York, North Carolina and Georgia, all claiming vast territories in the Central West and Northwest, sur- rendered such claims to the United States, so that in time there might be created more free and independent commonwealths. When, after long delays, this was done, Mary- land adopted the articles on January 30, 1781. It seems particularly appropriate that the one state which stood out so long, and practically alone, for National sovereignty over the new lands of the west until the time should come to create states out of them, should even to this day have more than half of the mileage between Balti- more or Washington and the Ohio River, over the National Turnpike, by far the greatest single factor in the settlement of the old northwest Ter- ritory, and its subsequent advance in population, wealth and importance. 55 Chapter 6: FROM THE MARYLAND-PENNSYLVANIA LINE, PAST FORT NECESSITY TO UNIONTOWN MMEDIATELY west of the state line mile-post, the old road' crosses the interstate boundary or the Mason-Dixon Line at Oakton (Strawn, Pa., P. O.), so small a place as hardly to be noticed at the average speed. This boundary was long the sub- ject of dispute between Pennsylvania and Mary- land, the claims of the latter being conspicuously advocated by Col. Thomas Cresap, the pioneer Western Maryland settler. Revolutionary officer and Indian fighter. The controversy was finally settled in 1762 by a decree of Lord Chancellor Hardwicke, in the case of William Penn vs. Lord Baltimore, under which the present boundary between the two states was laid out and marked by two English surveyors, Mason and Dixon. Less than half mile south of the interstate line at Oakton is Bear Camp, the site of Brad- dock's sixth encampment ; and a short distance farther along on the eastern slope of Winding Ridge, the old Braddock Road comes into the line of the present Pike. This intersection is marked by a very interesting tablet on the right- hand side of the road; it is reproduced on page 55, and refers to the trips made over this route by Washington and Braddock in 1753- 54-55. Beyond the tablet the road continues up Winding Ridge, which probably derived its name from the course of the older Braddock Road in this direction from Bear Camp; at the top there is a sharp right curve and then a descent of the western slope, past an old stone tavern, on the right near the foot of the grade. This build- ing, erected probably in 1819, and a "wagon- stand" in the busy days of the old Pike, is now a private residence, owned and occupied by Edward Augustine. One is not long in Pennsylvania without notic- ing that the old Pike in the Keystone State is not crowned as high as in Maryland. Two miles beyond the state line, we see, on the right, the 94-milestone and nearby the old toll house shown in the illustration page 58; it is now the only one on the Pennsylvania part of the route built of stone, all the others still standing being of brick. They are all still the property of the Keystone Commonwealth, six having been authorized by the legislature by the act of April 11, 1831, after the federal government returned the Pike to the states through which it passed; all were well-built and the three yet standing could be put into good condition at small ex- pense, in case the state should decide to preserve them as relics of a former day. Immediately beyond the toll house is the old and picturesque village of Addison, formerly called Petersburgh, a name still frequently seen on the old mile-posts. It is noted for its health- ful location and the beauty of the surrounding scenery; and is a popular resort for summer tourists. On the left-hand or south side of the road (traveling west) is the famous brick tavern opened by Robert Hunter in 1832, and a popular stopping place for one of the early lines of stage coaches, continued as a tavern to this day. Over to the right beyond Addison is another fine view; then the road passes several well-kept farms, with long stretches of whitewashed board fences. Perhaps the most noted of all these farms is Jasper Augustine's, one and one-quarter miles from Addison ; the house was built on the site of one of the famous old taverns and is sur- rounded by an estate of 1,600 acres. On every hand are evidences of substantial prosperity and contentment, and in several instances these homes are owned by descendents of those who kept taverns or drove either stage coaches or freight wagons in the palmy days of the National Road. 56 Now there is a long, winding descent from an elevation of slightly over 2,000 feet at Addi- son to about 1,412 feet at Somerfield, the next town, a distance of a trifle over three miles. From a sharp left curve part-way down, the fertile valley of the Youghiogheny is seen to spread out far to the west and south; next to the Monongahela, which we shall cross at Brownsville, it is the largest tributary of the Ohio on this route, rising in the recesses of the mountains in lower Garrett County, at about the tip of the wedge Maryland drives into West Virginia. Care is advised on the final descent into Somerfield, an ancient village, a partial view of which is shown on page 59. In the olden days this place was called Smithfield, which name still survives on the old signposts; but, probably to avoid confusion with many other variations of "Smith," the Post Office Depart- ment renamed it Somerfield. The most noted tavern here during the busy days of the old Pike was known as the Endsley House, a stone building erected in 1818, the year following the completion of the road to this point, and for many years the headquarters in this section for the Stockton line of stage coaches. It still stands at the western end of the town near the banks of the river, and is now the Youghiogheny House, as shown in the view page 59; the only change has been the addition of a third story. Immediately beyond, the high- way crosses the Youghiogheny over a large stone bridge, shown in the illustration on page 58 ; it is 359 feet in length and has three symmetrical arches. Upon this bridge, which has recently been re- paired by the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, may be noticed a bronze tablet, imbedded in a sandstone boulder, announcing that a short dis- tance south Colonel George Washington crossed with his little army on the expedition of 1754 against the French who had taken possession of the "Forks of the Ohio" ; and in the following year Major-General Braddock crossed with his raph Copyright J. K. Lacock CLOSE VIEW OF ONE OF THE ORIGINAL METAL MILEPOSTS, STILL IN GOOD CONDITION These are found at intervals between Cumberland and Wheel- ing, though this particular one is near the Maryland- Pennsylvania state line army of English regulars on his disastrous ex- pedition against Fort Duquesne. On the opposite side of the bridge, imbedded in the wall, is a stone tablet bearing the name of "Kinkead, Beck & Evans" as builders, and July 4, 1818, as the date of celebrating the opening of the bridge to travel and traffic. In and About the "Big Crossings" The Youghiogheny has three forks or branches, the main stream or south fork rising in Preston County, W. Va., not far from the headwaters of the Potomac; this is the branch crossed by the National Turnpike at Somerfield, the others being the Castleman River, which rises in Gar- 57 Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock ONE OF THE THREE TOLLHOUSES NOW STANDING ON THE NATIONAL TURNPIKE IN PENNSYL- VANIA, AND THE ONLY ONE BUILT OF STONE On the right just east of Addison village rett County, Maryland, and Laurel Hill Creek, in Somerset County, Pa., the three uniting at the historic "Turkey Foot," the present site of Confluence, Pa. Through this section it is the boundary between Somerset and Fayette Coun- ties, Pa.; and the whole district hereabouts is very historic. To the stage coach and freight wagon drivers the bridge at Somerfield was al- ways the "Big Crossings," to distinguish it from the "Little Crossings" of the Castleman River; and that term is frequently used even today. In his "Journals" (1751) Christopher Gist refers to this stream as the "middle fork of the Yaughaughaine," written no doubt with a fair knowledge also of the other two branches. In the diary of his first trip to warn the French away from Fort Duquesne, with Gist as guide, Washington mentions camping at the "big fork" of the same stream. A few months later, in command of the Virginia expedition sent by Governor Dinwiddle to build forts on the Monongahela and Ohio, Washington, now lieu- tenant colonel, had so much difficulty in widen- ing the Indian path and building bridges to this locality, even for his comparatively few troops, that he determined, if possible, to use the water route from approximately the present site of Somerfield to the mouth of Redstone Creek, where a primitive trading post and fort had already been established. Finding this section of the Youghiogheny too wide to bridge and too deep to ford, Washing- ton secured a canoe in which he with four of his men and an Indian made their way past the "Turkey Foot," or Confluence, Pa., to the falls in that river at what is now Ohiopyle. Dis- covering that his expedition could not be taken across or around the falls, Washington returned to the Indian path as the only alternative, though he considered Confluence a very strategic loca- tion for a fort. The "Yough" is navigable even now for only a few miles away from its junc- tion with the Monongahela, and that as a result of much later improvements. The name Youghiogheny, with which strangers are likely to have trouble, has many interesting variations; it is very old and its origin is dif- ficult to ascertain, though tradition says that the base of them all was the Indian "Yough- hannie" meaning "four-streams," possibly refer- Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock THREE-SPAN STONE ARCHED BRIDGE OVER THE YOUGHIOGHENY RIVER AT SOMERFIEXD, PA. In the olden days tliis was popularly known as the "Big Crossings" to distinguish it from the bridge across the Castleman River ("Little Crossings") S8 Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock LOOKING EAST ALONG THE MAIN STREET OF SOMERFIELD, PA., FROM A POINT JUST EAST OF THE YOUGHIOGHENY RIVER What is now the Youghiogheny House was the "Endsley House" in the days of the stage coach and freight wagon ring to the main river and the three branches at the Turkey Foot. Others claim that it means a far-flowing or rapidly-flowing stream. On a map made in 1737 to show the location of lands belonging to Lord Fairfax, mention is made of the "spring-heads of Yok-yo-gane River, a south branch of the Monongahela." Next it appears in Fry & Jefferson's map of Maryland and Vir- ginia (1751) as Yaw-Yaw-ganey, while on the Western Pennsylvania and Virginia map of 1753 the name "Turkey Foot" is shown. Other varia- tions of the name are Yoh-w-gain and Yoxigeny. Confluence is only a few miles north of Somer- field, the nearest place to it from our route over the old Pike being Addison, passed a few miles east. The term "Turkey Foot" is by no means extinct now, for there are both upper and lower townships of that name; and the connecting road from the National Highway near Addison passes through the Turkey Foot district to Somerset, Pa., from which the Philadelphia-Pittsburgh through pike can be quickly and easily reached. Names as aptly descriptive as the "Turkey Foot," always have a good chance to survive the wear of time. Youghiogheny River to Fort Necessity Immediately beyond the stone bridge at Somer- field the Pike crosses the Confluence Branch of the B. & O. R. R., and passes "Gobler's Knob," a nearly abrupt rise from the west branch of the Youghiogheny. Some distance up from the base of the hill, the older Braddock Road skirts this "Knob"; evidences of that road's location are quite marked to this day, and in places there are well-preserved trenches. Then follows a level stretch, known to the stage coach and freight wagon drivers as "Jockey Hollow," where in the olden days horse races and cock fights were frequently held. About one mile west of the Youghiogheny we go through the hamlet of Thomasdale, noting an abandoned mill on the right ; then the road passes through a cut which considerably reduces the former grade, and winds part way up a series of hills to Humberston. On the left-hand or south side of the road at this hamlet is the old Brown Tavern; it is a two-story stone house built by Thomas Brown about the time the National Road was opened for travel. In the olden time it was a popular resort for the "Pike boys" of the neighborhood, as well as for those who stopped there on their trips through, often to spend the long winter evenings In dancing and revelry. Beyond Humberston the pike rises over Wood- cock Hill, passing through a "cut" with large, jagged rocks left on either side by the road- builders; the summit was known in the olden days as "Mount Augusta," from an old brick tavern on the north side of the road, burned down years ago. Then the tourist comes to an old stone house; beyond this is a very long downgrade, the descent on the three miles west of the "cut" averaging about 500 feet to the mile, but straight as an arrow all the way. 59 Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock SITE OF "FORT NECESSITY," WHERE GEORGE WASHINGTON SURRENDERED TO A SUPERIOR FORCE OF FRENCH AND INDIANS ON JULY 4, 1754 Nothing now remains of the crude fort, but its site (reached by a lane) is indicated by a tablet near the three trees about the center of the photograph. On the crest of the ridge over to the right is the National Turnpike, looking west toward Braddock's Grave and Uniontown; tlie large brick building on the extreme right is the old Mount Washington Tavern At the foot of the grade a small stream is crossed by a stone bridge, and one begins the ascent into Farmington, meanwhile passing on the left the ruins of the old McCartney House, another of the famous hostelries during the busy days of the Pike. On the right at Farmington is the Rush Tavern, one of the most pretentious of all the brick hotels along the route, erected in 1837 by Hon. Nathaniel Ewing; the store and post office occupy a building on the opposite side of the road. This place is about twelve miles east of Uniontown and about the same west of Addison, making it a convenient stop for stage coach travelers and freight wagon drivers. On the left, about one and one-quarter miles west of Farmington, we come to Mount Washington, a fine old brick tavern. In the olden days the "Good Intent" line of stage coaches stopped here. But interest in this locality goes back far beyond the National Turn- pike, for it was in the fields just south of here that George Washington hastily constructed Fort Necessity when, as Lieutenant-Colonel of the Virginia militia, he was forced to give up Gov. Dinwiddle's plan to erect defences on the Monon- gahela and Ohio, and fall back before superior French and Indian forces. Washington, who in 1753 had made the trip to the Forks of the Ohio with Gist as guide, was in advance of the main forces with 150 men, who were principally engaged in widening the Indian path, which up to that time had been "scarcely broad enough for one man." All this section was then a dense wilderness, traveled only by a few white men. The main supporting army, which set out from Wills Creek (Cumberland) in command of Col_- Joshua Fry, was a long time coming up, and meanwhile Gist brought the news that Col. Fry had been killed by a fall from his horse. Wash- ington had first advanced as far as Mount Brad- dock, several miles north ; but on account of his small force and the large number of French and Indians, he decided to retreat over the newly cut road. Reaching the site of Fort Necessity, with his troops exhausted and in need of food, he found here — in the southern part of the Ligonier Valley, east of the crest of Laurel Hill — a well-watered meadow ; and concluded to wait reinforcements, meanwhile erecting the crude fort for protection. Soon the larger force of French and Indians, in command of Coulon de Villiers, surrounded the fort and opened battle on July 3d. For nine hours during the rainstorm, the colonial troops stood the siege; but when a considerable number of the defenders were killed or wounded, most of the horses and cattle lost and ammunition be- came nearly exhausted, he, who was afterward known as the "Father of his Country," capitu- lated with the honors of war, whereupon the Eng- lish flag was hauled down and the French run up.^ This was on July 4, 1754, Washington's first and only surrender, though in the Revolution more than twenty years later, he often tasted de- feat. The tablet which has been erected reads as follows: This Tablct marks rncjiTt or FORT NECESSITY. tVHUE LlEUr.-ColONCL GconCC WASHINCTONmCOMMANDOr rOUti HUNDRED PROVINCiAL TBOOCS, ArTEB AN tMCAOCMENT OF NINEKOUIII, CAPITULATED 73 M. CoULOK DE ViLLIERS IN COHDAMO or NINE HU.NDHEO TRENCH REGULARS AMD THEIR iNOiANALLict. July 4th, 1754. Colonel WASHmcTON LOST 30 MEN KIUCDANO 42 WOUNDED. CAPTAIN MaCKCY'S LOJS WAS NEVER REPORTED. THE FRENCH HAD TWO MCK KILLED AND 70 WOUNDED TWO WHEREOF WERE INDIANS. Ekctw Juty 4th, 1808, Undm the auspices of the CENTCNNUL CCLEIfltTION COMUITTEC 1904. 60 This locality was then, and is still known as "Great Meadows"; it is well-watered by a branch of Big Meadows Run and some minor streams, which no doubt had much to do with its selection for defence. From its headwaters near the crest of Laurel Hill, Big Meadows Run flows southeast to the site of the fort and then northeast to the Youghiogheny River. For as clear a view of Fort Necessity as the limited space allows, see the view on page 60; on the extreme right of that picture one can trace the outlines of the old brick tavern at Mount Wash- ington, and at least in some degree also the course of the National Road toward the west. In 1767, Washington, always interested in "western" lands, acquired over 300 acres, embracing the site of Fort Necessity, for less than $100; that por- tion of "Great Meadows," including what was once Fort Necessity, is now the farm of Lewis Fazenbaker. Braddock's army, which was organized to ac- complish what Washington's small Virginia forces failed to do, passed westward across this section in 1755, by what is now known as the old Braddock Road, but did not stop at Fort Necessity. It was no doubt pushing forward with the idea of a sure victory over the French at Fort Duquesne, though only about a mile and a half beyond Fort Necessity the Pike comes alongside Braddock's Grave, and we are reminded by the tablet on the monument, of which a view is shown on page 62, that the disaster which befell that stubborn English general was far greater than Washington's defeat. Limitations of space forbid any extended ref- erences here to the Braddock expedition; about four miles beyond the grave and monument, the old road the expedition followed turns north- west to Mt. Braddock, Connellsville, Mt. Pleas- ant and Pittsburgh, following a route largely abandoned today, though a number of traces of it still remain. The English and Colonial forces pursued their way to within ten miles of Fort Duquesne, where the battle of the Monon- gahela was fought, resulting in their defeat by the French and Indians. Braddock was fatally wounded in the engagement and died on the re- treat, three days afterward ; to prevent his re- mains being disturbed he was hastily buried in the middle of the road, and Washington read the services over his body at daylight the following morning, July 14, 1755. The exact spot where Braddock was first buried is now marked by a tablet a few rods back of the monument, on the east side of Braddock Run. In 1804, when workmen were engaged in repairing the old road, Thomas Faucet, who had been in the retreat of 1755, pointed out the place ; Braddock's remains were then taken up, in the presence of Hon. Andrew Stewart, of Uniontown, and re-interred at the present spot, at the foot of a large tree, which disappeared prior to 1870. For a number of years the grave was enclosed by a board fence, within which were THE SITE OF FORT NECESSITY ("GREAT MEADOWS"), THE PRESENT NATIONAL PIKE, THE NOW ABANDONED BRADDOCK ROAD, GENERAL TOPOGRAPHY OF THE LOCALITY, AND THE POSITIONS OF THE FRENCH AND INDIAN FORCES WHICH OVERCAME WASHINGTON'S EXHAUSTED VIRGINIANS 61 Photograph by Kough, Uniontown MONUMENT AT BRADDOCK'S GRAVE a number of pine trees; but more recently the "General Braddock Memorial Park Association," composed largely of people in Uniontown and vicinity, purchased 23 acres, including the site of the grave, and began plans to erect a sub- stantial memorial. As a result, the monument shown on this page was dedicated on October 15, 1913, for which occasion the English government sent a special delegation, including the first British soldiers in uniform that had stepped on the United States soil since the war of 1812. The shaft is a fine specimen of Barre, Vermont, granite, 12 feet 3 inches high, and 8 feet, 4 inches square; the monument, which weighs 25 tons was transported from Union- town over Laurel Hill on trucks drawn by trac- tion engines and erected without mishap. On all four sides are inscriptions upon bronze tab- lets S^'feet square, the one facing the road read- ing as follows: Here Lieth the Remains of MAJOR GENERAL EDWARD BRADDOCK Who in command of the 44th and 48th regiments of English regulars was mortally wounded in an engage- ment with the French and Indians under the command of Captain M. De Beaujeu at the Battle of the Monon- gahela within ten miles of Fort Duquesne, now Pittsburgh, July 9, 1755. He was borne back with the retreating army to the Old Orchard Camp, about one fourth of a mile west of this park, where he died July 13, 1755. Lieutenant Colonel George Washington read the burial service at the grave. On the flat, just west of Braddock Park, one may see the location of Old Orchard Camp, re- ferred to in the tablet and designated in the Brad- dock expedition records as the "Camp on the west side of Great Meadows." A short distance be- yond Braddock's Grave, we come, on the right, to the stone tavern known in the busy days of the Pike as the Fayette Springs Hotel. This house was built in 1822 as a private residence by Hon. Andrew Stewart, long Congressman from the Uniontown district, and one of the most persistent advocates of the construction of the road at the time its constitutionality was de- bated in Congress. In 1824 it was made a tavern and continued as such until August, 1909, when the property was purchased by George F. Tit- low, a prominent hotel man of Uniontown, and remodeled into a fine summer home. On the south side of the road opposite the house, may be seen the only original stone mile-stone from Cumberland to Wheeling, which bears the fol- lowing inscription: "8 M. to Union.; 52 to Cumb." We continue along the Pike about another mile to what was known in stage coach days as "Chalk Hill," though the U. S. Geological Survey, made in 1899, does not give it an individual name, despite the fact that it is a Post Office. There, on the right, are two wooden buildings; in the foreground the old tavern, and just beyond, the new one, the latter (built about 1904) now known by the old name of the "Chalk Hill House," as stated on the sign over the entrance. The older tavern was built in 1823, and in its time sheltered many notables; on his trip to Washington, the Indian Chief Black- hawk is said to have taken breakfast there, and Andrew Jackston, escorted by 200 people from Uniontown, stayed there overnight. From the earliest days, the Chalk Hill House was a famous eating place, and is so to this day, under the management of W. J. Olwine, who still has a few of the dishes used in serving some of the old worthies. Final Stretch into Uniontown Beyond the Chalk Hill House, there is a short downgrade across a very small stream; then the route to Uniontown makes a long steady ascent to the eastern slope of Laurel Hill (that part of Chestnut Ridge south of the Youghiogheny River), the rise being nearly 500 feet in about a mile and a half. At the top, on the left, is the Summit Hotel, shown on page 63, one of the finest structures between Baltimore and .- Wheeling. It stands on the apex of the ridge, at the edge of a great forest, is in close 62 proximity to some of the most interesting local- ities in the history of the country, and commands a magnificent view, including a considerable stretch of the Monongahela Valley and part of the famous Connellsville coke region. Here the tour- ist making this trip crosses the most westerly ridge of the Alleghenies, and has before him only a series of minor grades to the Ohio River. The detail map on page 56 shows a very in- teresting detour, over a fair road, from the sum- mit to Half King's Rocks, Washington Springs and Jumonville, which though off our route, de- serves at least a brief historical reference. "Half King" was a Seneca Indian chief who sided with the English as against the French, and was of great assistance to Washington. While at Fort Necessity waiting for possible reinforcements from Wills Creek (Cumberland), Washington heard that a small party of French and Indians under N. Coulon de Jumonville was scouting in the vicinity; and leaving "Great Meadows" at night, he made his way with a small party to Washington Springs, where he had a conference with some friendly Indians, the result of which was a decision to make an immediate attack. He then proceeded north perhaps two miles to the place still known as the location of Jumonville's grave, where, on May 28, 1754, he surprised de Jumonville's party, killing their leader and sev- eral of his men, taking the others captive. This engagement, preceding both Washington's capitu- lation at Fort Necessity and Braddock's later defeat, was the first clash of arms between the English and French for supremacy in what is now our great Central West. For most of the way from Frostburg to Uniontown, the old Pike runs through what is considered today a quite heavily wooded coun- try, though of course, not nearly as much as seventy-five or a hundred years ago. White, black and red oaks, chestnut, pine, maple, poplar, hickory and walnut are particularly in evidence; and through these forests are many of the smaller trees and bushes, such as sumac, service, haw, rhododendron, laurel, honeysuckle, most of the different species of ferns, and many kinds of berries. The flowers and foliage are extremely varied in color, making nearly every bit of land- scape beautiful, especially in the fall, after a frost, when almost any color of the rainbow can be seen as one looks in any direction over those noble, historic mountains. At times there are stretches of a mile or more along the route, often on only one side but fre- quently on both sides, which have been entirely cleared and made into fine farms, with comfortable-looking, spacious barns; but the greater part of the way is still through the for- est, which retains much of its primeval beauty during the motoring season. The chestnut groves, and the profusion of ferns and wild- flowers are particularly pleasing to the leisurely traveler, who is recommended, insofar as con- venient, to stop overnight in the small villages along the route, and perhaps after the plain, sub- stantial evening meal usually found in these places, to take a stroll in the moonlight among the almost invariable romantic surroundings. Immediately opposite the Summit Hotel be- gins the very long, winding descent of the ridge — over 1,200 feet in three miles, the average grade being 7 per cent, and the maximum over 9 per cent. There is a succession of wonderful views over to the left almost all the way down ; and the first-time visitor should make this descent slowly in order to take in the scenery and also note a few points of interest. At the right, about a mile down this western slope, was a fine rustic house of the Mountain Water Club, erected about fifteen years ago by a number of prominent LOOKING EAST TO THE CREST OF CHESTNUT RIDGE, ABOUT SIX MILES EAST OF UNIONTOWN, PA.; SUMMIT HOTEL ON THE RIGHT, OR SOUTH SIDE OF THE ROAD This view is typical of tlie excellent state of the Old National Highway for about two-thirds of the way between Baltimore and Wheeling 63 WIDE, SAFE TURN ON THE NATIONAL PIKE IN FRONT OF THE UPPER WATERING TROUGH ON THE WEST SLOPE OF LAUREL HILL OR CHESTNUT RIDGE Formerly the location of a famous road-house. The opening of stone, near wTiere the men and woman are standing, is a roasting oven, much used before the nearby Water Mountain Club House was burned. Uniontown people, who later built a large oven on the eastern side of it, so that they might fre- quently entertain their friends with an ox, pig, or lamb roast. The club house was subsequently destroyed by fire; in front of where it stood, is the 73d milestone from Wheeling (or 58th from Cumberland), and almost alongside is the "upper watering trough." A comparatively new cement watering trough, built in 1906, supplies an abundance of pure mountain water to the thirsty tourist. Unusual Type of Bridge Still further down, our road crosses a small stream which, owing to the peculiar formation of the ground, required the erection of a bridge, supported by a massive stone wall shown on page 65. This is a romantic and picturesque spot, locally and traditionally known as the "Turkey's Nest," named possibly from the sim- ple incident of the discovery of a wild turkey's nest by workmen at the time it was built, but more probably because of its large circular form. Not far beyond, the road comes to a fairly level spot and passes the fine estate of J. R. Barnes, along which there is a low but long stone fence ; Mr. Barnes macadamized 1,000 feet of the Pike past his property. We. are now in Hopwood, called Monroe in stage coach days — laid off in the National Road and named in honor of the fifth president of the U!nited States; on either side of the street will be noticed a half dozen old stone houses, all once used as taverns. Monroe, being just at the foot of the mountain, was a favorite stopping place, especially for the freighters: at one time there were seven licensed hotels and three or four others, all usually crowded to their capacity. After a level stretch, in the course of which we cross a small stream, there is a considerable upgrade, which until two years ago, when the road was rebuilt, was the heaviest grade on the pike between Cumberland and Wheeling. After ascending this, there is considerable downgrade to the eastern edge of Uniontown, and a choice of two ways in; keep straight ahead past a large yellow brick school on the right, to Main Street and turn left to the center of one of the most noted places along the National Highway. Con- tinuing west along Main Street we cross at grade the B. & O. R. R. (a connecting line be- tween the Pittsburgh division, at Connellsville, and Morgantovvn, W. Va.), and come to the Fayette County Court Hlouse, prominently on the right just east of the business center; in the yard of the Sheriff's residence, on the west side of the Court House, is a tablet, visible from Main Street, erected to mark the location of Beeson's blockhouse, erected in the very early days of Uniontown, but never used. Just beyond is a crossing of the Pennsylvania Railroad (southwest branch Pittsburgh division), and then on the right one may notice the old mile- stone bearing the inscription : "63 to Cumber- land; to Smithfield (now Somerfield) 22; 68 to Wheeling; to Brownsville 12." At the next corner, rising higher than any of the surrounding structures, is the First Na- tional Bank Building — containing 500 rooms, - and said to be the largest building in any town of its size in the country — in which is located the office of the Automobile Club of Fayette County. Uniontown is a commercial and financial center for the coal and coke industries in its section " of Pennsylvania, these developments having 64 brought wealth to this prosperous town, which now has a population of about 15,000. Its history is closely related to that of the Old Pike, 8,420 feet of which are within its limits, and kept in good condition by the municipality. The National Road was completed from Cum- berland to Wheeling in 1818; and Uniontown — almost exactly half-way between them — became at once a very important point for travel and transportation. What then required a day to cover, especially with a heavily laden freight wagon, can now be done in little more than an hour by automobile ; from Cumberland to Wheel- ing has become a comfortable day's run, with Uniontown the most convenient noon stop. Few places of its size have as ample and good hotel accommodations — an inheritance, at least in part, from the time when its main thoroughfares were almost crowded with stage coaches, whose pas- sengers alighted well prepared for the plain but substantial meals the old taverns almost invari- ably served. Within the city limits the identity of the Pike is partially lost in Main Street, which is well- paved and takes the tourist through the busi- ness center, as well as past the principal hotels and nearby the best garages. But, different from our observations in the smaller towns along the route, none of the hotels now catering for tran- sient business in Uniontown are as they were in the olden days, for all are practically modern. Perhaps it may be worth while to refer briefly to some of these places before starting on the last stage of our trip to the Ohio River. Opposite the Court House is the old Fulton House, now known as the Altman House; the lot on which this hotel stands was occupied by a tavern as early as 1784. Seth Howell, known as "Flinger" Howell, erected a brick hotel here in 1828; the building has been enlarged and conducted by various owners as a tavern ever since. Half-way down Main Street, on the right, where Beeson Avenue crosses, stands the old Walker House, now known as the Central Hotel. This was a popular hostelry in the early days, a tavern having stood on this lot as early as 1784. Zadoc Walker built the house in 1816; among his distinguished guests were the Marqui". de Lafayette, Hon. Albert Gallatin, General Santa Anna and William Henry Harrison. It has been greatly enlarged and presents little of its original appearance. The next hotel identified with the history of the old pike is the McClelland House, on the right, just west of the First National Bank build- ing. Before the advent of the National Road, a tavern was opened in a frame building here by William McClelland, and known as the "Spread Eagle." His son, Alfred McClelland, erected a two-story brick hotel building on the site of the frame one in 1837, and it has been conducted as a hotel, without change of name, ever since. It THE CURVE AND SOLID STONE BRIDGE ACROSS A SMALL STREAM ON THE WESTERN SLOPE OF CHESTNUT RIDGE, KNOWN AS THE "TURKEY'S NEST" This bridge is as substantial as when it was built (1818) > 65 Oak Grove +^ t ToMasonto,ivn . Hotel Titlow 2 Mc Clelland House 3 The Brunswick 4 West End 5 Altman House 6 Old white Swan Tavern 7 Site of National House a popular old tImeTavern, sceneofa famous mail robbery 8 WalkerHouse DETAILTHROUGH UNIONTOWN UXIOXTOWX, ALWAYS CLOSELY IDENTIFIED WITH THE NATIONAL TURNPIKE, WAS PARTICULARLY NOTED FOR THE NUMBER AND EXCELLENCE OF ITS HOTELS IX THE OLDEN DAYS was well patronized in the days of the old pike, and many noted people were guests at this house. Nearly opposite the McClelland House, and a little west, was the old Ewing McCleary tavern, which commenced business in 1819; this, too, has been conducted as a hotel, under dif- ferent managements, ever since. It has been greatly enlarged, and is now known as the Bruns- wick. On the corner diagonally opposite to the Brunswick, is the hotel built by James Seaton in 1814, and known as the "Black Horse" tavern. This was a popular hotel, and has been con- ducted as such ever since; greatly enlarged, it is now known as "The West End." On the right, almost immediately beyond, is the Hotel Titlow, a modern hotel, conducted on the Euro- pean plan. An Ancient Landmark The old "White Swan" tavern still stands on the left, near the west end of Main Street; it was a log building, and would make a sorry sight as a hotel of today. Opened as a tavern by Thomas Brownfield in 1805, it never felt the decorating hand of the painter, though it was known for its good meals throughout the length of the old pike. Mr. Brownfield had been a wagoner on the old Braddock Road be- for the construction of the National Road ; Nathaniel Brownfield succeeded his father, and continued the business until 1895, after a con- tinuous run of ninety years. Any tourist desiring to look over one of the old taverns while a few of the real type remain, can locate the old White Swan by reference to the map. It stands close to the street, and is most quickly identified by the strange contrast with its surroundings. If the occupants are agreeable to an inspection, it will be especially interesting to look over the bar-room, fireplace and upstairs bedrooms. Back of the tavern, and open from the street, is a typical spacious wagon yard of the olden-time, paved with stone, as was the custom to secure a hard surface. Alongside the barn is probably the best preserved of old- fashioned pumps along the Pike. The National House was a three-story brick building erected as a private residence on the west side of Morgantown Street, at the corner of Fayette. In 1832, Dr. John F. Braddee pur- chased this property, and in this building was committed one of the greatest robberies ever perpetrated in the United States. Mr. L. W. Stockton, manager of the National Stage Coach Company, purchased this house in 1841; and under different managements it was con- ducted as the National House until traffic was withdrawn from the old road. 66 Chapter 7: UNIONTOWN THROUGH BROWNSVILLE TO WASHINGTON, PA. NIONTOWN, the first place of importance west of the Alleghany Mountains on this route, is a small but very enterprising and prosper- ous city, depending now as for nearly 100 years past largely upon the National Pike for direct connections East and West. Both the Pennsylvania and Baltimore & Ohio R. R. systems have built into Uniontown from the north ; but there is not a mile of railway between Frostburg and Washington, Pa., anywhere near parallel to the old short-line highway. Indeed, it is difficult for the railway traveler of today to make the trip east from Uniontown to Cum- berland or west to Washington, without con- siderably exceeding the normal time required to motor to either of those cities. Resuming the trip, continue out West Main Street crossing a stone bridge and the track of the Coal Lick Run Branch of the Southwest Pennsylvania R. R. ; at the west end of Main Street, on the right, situated on a beautiful knoll, and facing the town, will be observed what was the residence of L. W. Stockton. This old mansion was erected by Jacob Beeson, one of the founders of the town, in 1785-86, and be- came the property of Daniel Moore, father-in- law of Mr. Stockton. The latter gave this place the name of "Ben Lomond" ; here was his home prior to 1824, and until his death, April 25, 1844. This mansion became the property of Hon. Samuel A. Gilmore in 1855, and is still owned and occupied by his descendants. Immediately beyond the railroad, the trolley leaves to the left, while the Pike keeps straight ahead, upgrade past a number of fine residences. Over to the left is the Uniontown Hospital, and just beyond, also on the left, we pass Oak Grove Cemetery, where we can see from the street the grave of Thomas B. Searight, author of "The Old Pike," already referred to several times in this series. A floral design of a mile- stone marked his grave for awhile, until it faded. Mr. Searight spent practically his whole life along the National Road, and wrote largely from the personal, human side, as no historian of the present day could hope to do. No other work on the subject gives so great an insight into the Old Pike days; the book is now practically out of print, though available in most large libraries. At his request, Mr. Searight was buried as close as possible to the old road he had studied so long and known so well. West of the cemetery are several more fine homes. On the left a short distance beyond, is seen the County Home, just before the Pike curves right, downgrade to cross a small bridge over Jennings' Run, where General Lafayette and Hon. Albert Gallatin met at the time of the General's visit; and then ascends a correspond- ing grade on the western side of the stream. It is worth while to keep a lookout, on the right about a mile farther on, for the iron mile-post which gives at the top the dis- tance to Cumberland and Wheeling, and below that the mileage to fairly important places within a radius of not more than ten or fifteen miles. Most of these metal posts are still standing; and this particular one, "66 to Cumberland ; to Union- town 3; 65 to Wheeling; to Brownsville 9," is quite commonly known as the "Half-way Stone." By this time the tourist who has come from Baltimore, Frederick or Hagerstown probably begins to miss the mountains; but only rolling lands or plateaus are traversed the balance of the way to the Ohio River. Pass through the small village of Haddenville, a short distance be- yond which is the first mining camp along the road since leaving the Frostburg, Md., district; and beyond that an old brick toll house, in form and structure like the others west of the moun- tains. The next point of importance is the Searight home, a large stone building on the north side of the road about half-way between Uniontown and Brownsville; it was built by Josiah Frost about the time the National Road was con- structed and acquired by William Searight in 1821. Located at an important cross-road, this was in the olden time one of the noted taverns along the road—- not only a popular place for social activities, but also a sort of political center for Uniontown, Connellsville and Brownsville. The original William Searight was road com- missioner on the old Pike for many years; at his death his son, Ewing Searight, came into posses- sion of the property, and rented it to various per- sons who conducted a tavern, and ran it two years himself. HSs son, William, used it as a private residence until his death ; it is now owned by Searight McCormick, a grandson of Ewing Sea- right, and occupied as a private residence. Prominently on the right-hand side, slightly less than two miles beyond Searight's, is the 67 A GLANCE ALONG WEST MAIN STREET, UNIONTOWN Showing a long stretch of brick laid by owners of property alongside. Heavy telegraph poles have been erected over a great part of the old road Johnson-Hatfield stone house, which was built in 1817 and continued as a tavern until 1855, a long time after travel over the old road began to decline. As a private residence it is still a fine specimen of the skill of the work- men a century ago, and of the substantial manner in which these old places were built. On the left or south side of the road, about three-quarters of a mile beyond the Johnson- Hatfield house, is the old Peter Colley tavern, a stone house. This was built in 1796, considerably before the National Pike was put through this section; and the old proprietor is said to have grown rich through the patronage of his place. Just west of the Peter Colley stand was formerly a steep descent, where stage coaches traveling east in the olden days had to be assisted by a "postilion" (single horse and rider) ; but a fill of about 17 feet has made it fairly level. Now the old highway passes between two artificial reservoirs and through Brier Hill, a town of 1,400 people on the Monongahela Rail- road, with one of the largest single coke plants in the Connellsville region ; this is the only coke plant of importance on our route, that industry being centered mostly in the district north of the Pike. Davidson, as shown on the U. S. Geological Survey maps, was a country Post Of- fice located one mile west of Brier Hill; but when the latter town was built, twelve years ago, Davidson post office was closed and a new one opened at Brier Hill. Beyond Brier Hill the road makes a consider- able ascent, from the top of which there is a fine view; then the way is direct past a com- fortable-looking old stone house on the right which, while not to be classed with the celebrated old taverns in this section, was kept as such at intervals during the prosperous era of the road. Diagonally across the highway, a trifle farther on, is a wooden building, known in the olden days as the "Red Tavern," from its color at that time. Three-quarters of a mile beyond, but some- what back from the road, is the stone building known as the Brown Tavern, once kept by a member of the family that founded Brownsville. Next one notices a cemetery on the left and almost directly opposite an old time brick hotel known as "Brubaker's," a very popular and well- patronized resort for wagoners, as distinguished from the stop-over places for stage coaches, which had their important stations for this section at Brownsville. Daniel Brubaker purchased the property in 1826, survived the business era of the National Road and died in his old tavern. Just beyond this place we pass through the little village of Sandy Hollow, where — over to the left — there opens up a fine view of the Monon- gahela River and its wide valley, with Browns- Scale of Miles I 2 3 I 1 I 1 68 ville and its adjacent villages nestling alongside the stream. Immediately the Pike starts to wind down the steepest grade since Laurel Hill, east of Union- town, shortly making a square left turn (see map page 70) in front of what is now the New Girard Hotel, where Henry Clay and General Jackson were entertained, into Market Street, Brownsville. On the right, just beyond, is the old stone tavern known in the olden days as the Brashears House, where General Lafayette once stopped; in front of this place is still the old milestone, "75 to Cumberland; to Union- town 12; 56 to Wheeling; to Centerville 6." Between three-tenths and four-tenths of a mile beyond. Market Street bends to the left, com- ing quite close to the Monongahela; the descent in the last two miles is about 300 feet, which should be taken with care, especially at night. Looking over to the left at a prominent point not far from the river, just before coming to the business center, the tourist is probably at- tracted by "Nemacolin Castle," a fine large residence, now occupied by Mr. Charles Bow- man, and erected by his ancestors. No doubt it was named in honor of Nemacolin, the Delaware Indian pathfinder; some claim that it is on the site of his cabin, which was known to have been near the junction of Dunlap's ( formerlyNema- colin) Creek and the Monongahela, but proof is entirely lacking. The known facts are that in 1759 Capt. James Burd settled on this site and dug a well, which is still preserved. This was also the location of Redstone Old Fort, one of the most important early military defenses of the Monongahela country. From the vicinity of the "Castle" an especially fine view is had of the river and valley. Brownsville and Vicinity This old city was one of the earliest settle- ments in the "western country," having been on the trail originally laid out by Nemacolin from Winchester, Va., through Old Town, Md., to rnotograpn t^opyngni j. /v. t.ncocR THE FAMOUS SEARIGHT HOUSE, AT A PROMINENT CROSS-ROAD SIX MILES WEST OF UNIONTOWN Long the residence of the Searights, one of the most noted families of tavern keepers on the National Road the Ohio in 1749; and not long afterward a storehouse was built by the Ohio Company at the mouth of Redstone Creek, near its junction with the Monongahela, about a mile north of Dunlap's Creek. Brownsville was the first point where, after the long trip over the mountains by stage coach, navigation could be resumed for Pittsburgh, Steubenville, Wheeling and west; and although the distance around by water was several times that over the National Road to- day, before the improvement of the latter a great deal of travel and transportation followed that roundabout course. For many years Brownsville was the head of navigation on the Monongahela; and during the busy days of the old Pike, it was an interior port of great importance. Naturally, it became also a popular stopping and transfer point for travelers, and there were several famous hotels; the principal one today is the Monongahela, in the downtown business center, occupying the site of an older one of the same name. The strategic location of Brownsville appealed strongly to the commissioners who were appointed by Congress to lay out the National Road, being defined in their report of December 30, 1806, as 69 Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock AN INTERESTING RELIC OF THE PAST— THE OLD COVERED BRIDGE ACROSS THE MONONGAHELA RIVER AT BROWNSVILLE Opened in 1833 and in constant use to 1910 a "point on the Monongahela best calculated to equalize the advantages of the shortest practic- able portage between the Potomac and the Ohio." Again they referred to it as "equally distant from Beaver Creek (a tributary of the Ohio above Pittsburgh) and Fishing Creek (the first north- ward-flowing water west of Big Savage Moun- tain in Maryland), convenient to all crossing places of the Ohio between these extremes. As a port it is at least equal to any on the Monon- gahela, and holds superior advantages in furnish- ing supplies to emigrants, traders and other travelers by land and water." Resuming the trip, pass through the downtown business center, crossing the bridge over Dunlap's Creek shown on map above; this was the first cast iron bridge built across any stream west of the Allegheny Mountains, notwithstanding which it is solid and in excellent condition today. It is still the only highway between Brownsville and that part of South Brownsville formerly known as Bridgeport, the latter laid out in 1794, and incorporated by an act of Assembly, March 9, 1814. In the early days of the old road, Bridgeport had a number of industries, but most of these have long ceased to exist; here also were two wagon stands or resorts for freight wagon drivers in the busy days of the Pike, while the stage coaches stopped at the more pretentious places in Brownsville. Some believe that Nema- colin's cabin was near this point; most likely it would have been near a spring, and could be overlooked from the present iron bridge. Neither early surveys, history nor tradition appears to locate precisely where the cabin stood ; there is now no vestige of it. Continue straight ahead past the National De- posit Bank on the corner, turning right between two brick buildings into Bridge Street, which leads to the new steel bridge across the river. This is one of the most historic crossings on the old Pike; and notable as having been the only place where the federal government did not build its own bridge to carry the National Road across. In the olden days all travel and traffic was by ferries; but in March, 1830, about the time when control of the Pike lapsed back to the States through which it passes, the Monongahela Bridge Co. was incorporated, with a capital stock of $44,000. The contract price for the old bridge shown on page 70 was $32,000, with $5,000 additional for the approaches. It was a wooden structure 630 feet long, and had three spans; formally opened on October 14, 1833, it was continued as a toll bridge until Sep- but of course the great bulk of it is from mines farther north, toward Pittsburgh. There is an element of historic or romantic interest attached to the Monongahela business, as it was one of the first coal fields developed in the soft coal regions on anything like an ex- tensive basis. The development was largely made possible through the activities of a corporation known as the Monongahela Navigation Co., which built locks and dams along the stream so as to afford navigation facilities. The coal thus shipped out was used not only at Pittsburgh, but largely also at Cincinnati, Louisville, Memphis and other places down to New Orleans before railroad facilities along modern lines and the development of other newer fields brought about more active competition. At present the aggregate business amounts to about 12,000,000 tons annually; though large, it Photograph Copyright J, K. Lacock VIEW OF THE WINDING MONONGAHELA, FROM THE HEIGHTS ABOUT A MILE WEST OF BROWNSVILLE tember, 1910, when it was condemned by the War Department, and a steam cable ferry started to take its place. On October 8, 1914, the new bridge was opened for traffic and the ferry again disappeared — probably for all time, unless revived in some unforeseen emergency. Gover- nor Tener and staff attended the dedication of the present structure. In crossing, one has a good view of the Monongahela on both sides of the bridge; it is a typically western river, more like the Ohio and the Mississippi than any of our eastern streams. The name Monongahela is said to be derived from the Shawnese, and to mean "Falling- in-bank river." Despite the great progress in rail transportation, this stream is still a consider- able factor in the coal trade. Shipments are made from as far south as Fairmont, W. Va., is not relatively so important as years ago. While the old mines that remain are small in comparison with the newer plants, big money was made by half a dozen Pittsburgh operators, par- ticularly before the war, when the Southerners were prosperous, and a dollar a ton extra or so on coal did not make much difference. There are now in some cases two railroads along the Monongahela, and practically every important mine has a rail connection. Consequently, the river business has been shorn of its glory; in fact, it began to decline to a serious extent as regards relative importance 20 or 25 years ago. After some agitation, the government bought out the Monongahela Navigation Co., thus afford- ing free use of the river; even this, however, did not offset the growing advantage of rail con- nections. 71 On the west side of the bridge we cross the Monongahela Branch of the Pennsylvania Rail- road at grade, and turn square left in front of an old hotel, now used in part as a Post Office; this is West Brownsville, which, with South Brownsville and Brownsville are often referred to locally as "the three towns." West Browns- ville was laid out in 1831 and incorporated in 1849; the tract of land on which it is situated was called "Indian Hill" and embraces Krepp Knob, ^a U. S. triangulation station. This town has the honor of being the birthplace of James G. Blaine, though the old Blaine homestead has long since been torn down. "Indian Hill" received its name from the fact that William Peters, more familiarly known as "Indian Peter," formerly lived near Uniontown, adjoining lands of a German named Philip Shute ; but he did not get along well with his Teutonic neighbor, whereupon he wrote the government that he wanted to change his location. The re- quest was granted and in 1769 he settled upon a tract of 339 acres, including the "Indian Hill" of today. Crumrine, in his history of Washing- ton County, says that during the spring of 1784, Neal Gillespie, a native of Ireland, and the great grandfather of James G. Blaine, purchased the Indian Hill property. After several transfers it. or a large portion of it, fell into the hands of Ephraim Lyon Blaine, the father of Jarnes G. Blaine who, after graduating at Washington Col- lege, married Maria, the daughter of Neal Gil- lespie. He located his residence on the bottom lands fronting the National Pike; later he built the brick house at the lower end of the town, where the statesman was born. Brownsville to Washington, Pa. The Pike makes a square left turn in front of the old hotel and post office, West Browns- ville, onto a stretch of brick ; then it bears to the right, up a fairly long grade, once again into the open country. Looking back from the top of the first hill, Brownsville appears like a small Pittsburgh — smoky and grimy, but busy and prosperous. We cross the stone bridge over a deep ravine, ascend another rather steep grade and come, on the right, to the fine old stone house shown in the illustration below. This originally belonged to the Krepps family, whose belief it is said to have been that a town would grow up on the site; in old Pike days it was known as "Maiden," This tavern was built in two sections, the west part in 1822, and the east part in 1830; on a dressed stone in the front over the entrance Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock THE OLD STONE HOUSE ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE ROAD, ABOUT THREE MILES WEST OF BROWNSVILLE A fine example of old-time construction, and now a comfortable private residence 72 Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock AN OLD LANDMARK AT BEALLSVILLE, PA., WHERE THE ROAD TO PITTSBURGH VIA FINLEYVILLE CONNECTS WITH THE PIKE . is the following inscription: "Liberty Krepps- ville 1830," and in addition the figures of a plow, sheaf of wheat and an eagle, as dimly shown in the photograph. The name "Krepps- ville" survives only on this inscription ; and the place is now a private residence, with a large stone stable just west of the house. Pass, on the right, a cemetery with one very conspicuous monument, erected by a hermit, J. Shannon McCutcheon, since deceased and, on the left, a large brick farmhouse with square cupolas, direct into Centerville, or East Bethlehem on the U. S. Government Survey map, a town laid out in 1821, a short time after the completion of the road. This is about equally distant from Uniontown and Washington, and was a popular stopping place in stage coach days; on the north side of the road is still the fifst brick tavern erected in the place. The next town is Beallsville, which was the outgrowth of the National Road — laid out in 1821, and incorporated as a borough in 1852; it is a long narrow village, most of the building facing on one side or the other of the Pike. Two of the several buildings in Beallsville that date back to stage coach and tavern days are the National Hotel, shown above, and known in the olden days as the William Greenfield stand, still entertaining the tourist, and the sub- stantial brick building on the north side of the road formerly a tavern but now (spring 1915) a temporary office of the Pennsylvania State Highway Department. The "National" is on the south side of the road, at the point where, going west, one would turn right through Bentleyville to Pittsburgh; the brick house, which was built in 1823, is on the north side of the road a short distance west, diagonally opposite the National. Leaving Beallsville the Pike ascends a con- siderable winding grade, bearing right at a three- corners near the top — past what was once an old brick tavern on the left; now the private resi- dence of Thomas Van Voorhes; then it bears right, downgrade, with a rather sharp left curve, before crossing the concrete viaduct over railroad tracks far below the surface. This viaduct — a Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock LOOKING WEST THROUGH THE LITTLE VILLAGE OF LABORATORY On the right, about the center of the place, is what was known as Martin's Tavern 73 Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock "DEAD MAN'S HOLLOW," AT THE EASTERN APPROACH TO EGG NOG HILL, BETWEEN THE LITTLE VILLAGES OF ODELL AND CLYDE This is a typical view across the scenic highlands of southwestern Pennsylvania, an intermediate topographic stage between the AUeghanies and the Central West 136-foot span, 110 feet above the tracks — was completed in 1909 at a cost of about $20,000; on either side of the roadway there is a seven- foot walk. Next is Scenery Hill, as officially known today, but always "Hillsboro" to the stage coach and freight wagon drivers, as well as still in the memory of many old-time residents. Midway between Brownsville and Washing- ton, this town was also the outgrowth of the National Road, and one of the principal stop- ping places for stage coaches. It was laid out in 1819, and is situated on a high eminence (1,480 feet elevation) overlooking a wide range of hills, with many fertile slopes and valleys; in clear weather. Laurel Ridge, 30 miles to the southeast, can be seen from this place. On the south side of the road, just west of the First National Bank building, is the old tavern or inn, first kept by David Powell, which originally bore the in- scription; "D. Powell's Inn," but now out of business for 30 years. Where Fine Views Abound On the north side of the road, just east of the four corners at Scenery Hill, is a stone hotel, once familiarly known as "Hill's Tavern"; it was in existence as early as 1794, and in the busy days of the road is said to have been the only stage house extensively patronized by wagoners, due lairgely to the commodious and spacious yard in front of the hotel. This is now the Central Hotel, still entertaining travelers. Just north of the Pike, a short distance beyond the four- corners, is a triangulation station of the United States Geological Survey, with an elevation of 1,467 feet, the highest point on this route between the Monongahela and Ohio Rivers. On the left, one and one-half miles west of the village, is a large and handsome brick building on the south side of the road ; once a very popular stand, known familiarly as "Charley Miller's," it is now the residence of John Wherry. Three miles west of Scenery Hill we make a curve just before coming into the very small village of Odell; on the north side of the road, opposite a store, is an old mile post, with the figures "90 to Cumberland; to Hillsboro (Scenery Hill) 3; 41 to Wheeling; to Washington 9." About one mile west of Odell, the traveler approaches "Dead Man's Hbllow," shown in the illustration above; here also begins the eastern approach to Egg Nog Hill. Now for the first time we see oil wells and derricks, which are to be frequent the bal- ance of the way to Wheeling. A short distance west of Egg Nog Hill is the picturesque little village of Clyde; and, less than two miles beyond, over the same rolling country, is the hamlet of South Strabane. The next point of interest is what is now known officially as Laboratory, though its more frequent name dur- ing old Pike days was Pancake, so-called from George Pancake who kept the first tavern there. On the north side of the road is the Martin tavern, erected in 1825, standing as in the olden days, but as a private residence. Shortly the city of Washington, Pa., appears in the distance ; we pick up the trolley and follow it along East Maiden Street, passing under the Pittsburgh- Wheeling line of the B. & O. R. R. Just be- yond, the street bears left past the Ladies' Seminary and within two blocks of Washington and Jefferson College, the oldest and one of the best and most widely known institutions west of the Allegheny Mountains. The college has graduated a number of eminent men, and is well worth a visit. 74 Chapter 8: WASHINGTON, PA., ACROSS TO WEST VIRGINIA "PANHANDLE" TO WHEELING IT the intersection of Main Street, in Washington, our route turns ,_ .^_^,-. right — nearly north on Main iSSK^S*^ Street — up-grade, past the large i——^=-' and impressive Court House, which is at the corner of Beau Street. Perhaps there is an interesting story of how Beau and Maiden Street came to be so named ; but that is outside the scope of the present series. Wash- ington is the largest place between Cumberland and Wheeling, and was a popular stopping point for stage coaches and freight wagons,; several of the celebrated taverns were located in this section, but they have now disappeared. At the second corner beyond the Court House, we turn left on Chestnut Street and start on the final westward stretch of 32^^ miles to the Ohio River ; in so doing, we run also into the main automobile route from Pittsburgh to Wheeling, which comes into Washington from the northeast to Main and Chestnut Streets. This Pittsburgh connection brings a great deal of additional travel into our route. As usual, this identity of the old pike is par- tially lost in going through a city like Wash- ington ; but after crossing the Pennsylvania R. R. tracks, only a short distance out Chestnut Street, and the B. & O. further along, the National Road passes through West Washington (for- merly Rankinville), and becomes itself again in the open country. Two miles out we cross Chartiers Creek over the three-arch stone bridge shown on page 76, this also illustrates the sub- stantial way in which the bridges on the National Road were built over the smaller as well as the larger streams. A series of easy but continuous grades carries the old Pike past the old Miller House, a popular and well-remembered wagon stand situated on the north side of the road about five miles west of Washington ; like many others that once catered to the traveling public, this is now a private residence. Along this portion of the road are several conspicuous old buildings, but not all of historical significance. The next landmark of importance, and one of the most interesting features of this part of the route, is the low stone bridge over a branch of the Buffalo Creek, shown on page 77; on account of its peculiar shape, it is known far and wide as the "S-bridge." In early times there was a tavern at either end of it, though now travel goes by without stop, and the comparatively new building on the other side is a large private house. The old tavern on the west side of the "S-bridge" stood until it was burned in February, 1899, and was quite typical of the wooden buildings, in their last stages. The out- side appearance of these old places was never very much of an index to the quality of the entertainment they afforded to the traveler of three-quarters of a century or more ago. On the top of the hill beyond the "S-bridge," and on the south side of the road, is a large brick structure which was opened by John Cald- DETAIL THROUGH WASHINGTON l/niontown end Cumbcriand *-«-* % \- \ \ \ \ I 75 well as a tavern about the time the Pike was built through this section; he conducted it until 1838, and it was continued as a tavern until 1873. It was a favorite resort of pleasure-seeking parties; but like so many other of the old places, is now a private residence. At the foot of a grade about three-quarters of a mile beyond, the Pike crosses Buffalo Creek by another stone bridge, commonly known as the Clark Bridge; this creek becomes a considerable stream before reaching the Ohio near Wells- burg, W. Va. About a half mile farther on, the road passes far above the Pittsburgh-Wheeling line of the B. & O. R. R., which here goes through a deep tunnel. Shortly the railroad comes alongside and is followed into Claysville, whose main street is the National Pike; the place was laid out in 1817 and named in honor of Henry Clay, the Kentucky statesman, who was one of the most ardent champions of the road. It was for many years an important stage station, well sup- plied with taverns, both for stage coach travelers and freight wagon drivers. The detailed map on page 77 shown the continuation of the route direct west across the railroad and past the ham- let of Vienna (once a relay for express wagons) better known as "Coon Island," to the old brick toll house. This is the last toll house on our route in Penn- sylvania, and is still owned by that state; of course, no toll has been collected for many years, and as long ago as 1875 the iron gates and posts were removed and sold for scrap iron. Almost in front of the toll house, the Pike turns right, and then left six-tenths of a mile beyond, direct to West Alexander which, laid out in 1796, became one of the important points of this great thoroughfare to the West; the original name of the community was "The Three Ridges," other names for it having been "Hard Scrabble," "Gretna Green" and "Saint's Rest." The two taverns, of which the "American Eagle," built in 1797 was probably the most celebrated, were patronized by the rival stage lines of the road. Today the tourist stopping at the Lafayette, on the left-hand side going west will probably be served by the proprietor or a member of his family; the meal is plain and substantial, the charge is only 35 cents, and the information quite likely volunteered that Marquis de Lafayette stopped here on his American visit in 1824. Continue through the center of West Alex- ander, bearing right at the fork at farther end of the town ; a short distance beyond the road turns right under the B. & O. R. R., and at the same time we pass from southwestern Penn- sylvania into that irregular part of upper West Virginia, known as the "Panhandle." In so doing we are likely to miss one of the most interesting of the old milestones, which is on the right, almost under the railroad, and much more conspicuous as one travels east. It dates back to the time when there was no West Virginia; and the inscriptions are as follows: (East side) "Penn'a 17 to Wheeling; to Tridelphia 8}^." (West side) "Virg'a 115 to Cumberland; to West Alexander 5^." Across the West Virginia "Panhandle" We are now within 45 minutes' comfortable ride of the Ohio River; the 16 miles or so are almost level as compared with the route followed for the greater part of this trip, and there is a consciousness of having descended from the high- lands to comparative lowlands. Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock THREE SPAN STONE-ARCH BRIDGE, CARRYING THE NATIONAL PIKE OVER CHARTIERS CREEK, TWO MILES WEST OF WASHINGTON, PA. This part of the road goes through one of the -Oil districts of southwestern Pennsylvania, as indicated by the derricks on the other side of the bridge 76 Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock THE "SBRIDGE," WHICH CARRIES THE NATIONAL PIKE OVER BUFFALO CREEK ABOUT SIX MILES WEST OF WASHINGTON, PA. This is one of tlie curious bridges along the route and bears some resemblance to the one across the Castleman River near Grantsville, Md. West Virginia is the youngest state east of the Mississippi, and the only one formed as a direct result of a division of sentiment over the issues of the war between the states, having been cut off from the northwestern part of Virginia by representatives of 40 counties who rejected the ordinance of secession and met in convention, suggesting the new state of Kanawha. It was admitted into the Union June 29, 1863, as West Virginia, the most irregular state in the entire cjuntry; with an area of only 24,589 square miles, a line drawn from Harpers Ferry to Kenova will measure 574 miles. This section of it seems at once eastern, western, northern and southern, a conception which grows upon one with a closer geographical study of that section. One gains, however, only a very inadequate idea of West Virginia from the little buffer piece seen on this route; generally speaking, it is a state of great rivers, wild mountains, and picturesque valleys, with an abundance of coal, gas and oil, prime factors of industry and wealth. The cli- mate also seems more genial; running across the "Panhandle" on a late fall day in 1914, the warmth and cheery brightness soon took away the last vestiges of chill left- from going over the mountain ranges east of Uniontown a few hours before. From now on, the Pike follows the general course of the railroad and trolley through to Wheeling; but the old road, first in the field, had its choice of right-of-way, the steam and electric lines being obliged to adapt themselves as best they could to the most natural route across this section. One result of this is the frequent crossings, especially of the trolley tracks, which are not encountered at as many places all the way from Baltimore to the West Virginia line. There are rather sharp curves across two small bridges to the little village of Valley Grove; the large frame tavern building on the north side of the road at this place was opened as a tavern in 1832, and was a station for the "Stockton" line of coaches. 77 CHARACTERISTIC STRETCH OF GOOD ROAD ACROSS THE "PANHANDLE" OF WEST VIRGINIA, AND NEAR VIEW OF ONE OF THE MANY OIL DERRICKS FOUND THROUGHOUT THAT SECTION Then comes Roney's Point where, on the north side of the road, we note the old stone tavern shown on page 80 erected in 1820, and a public house to this day; the "Simo" line of stages stopped here under one landlord and the "Good Intent" under another. Next is Tri- delphia, another one of the many villages which grew up along the Pike. Two taverns of excel- lent reputation are said to have been conducted here when road travel was heavy; later on sev- eral of the old stage coach and freight wagon drivers retired and spent their declining years in this scattered little village. Today by the aid of the trolley, it is conveniently suburban to Wheeling, and automobiles outnumber all other vehicles over the road. Less than a mile and a half beyond Tridelphia, the road turns across Middle Wheeling Creek, and then right along the south side of same into Main Street, Elm Grove village, past a side- road leading to the stone Presbyterian Church, as shown by the map on page 77. That church was organized in 1787, and services were held under the large oak trees at the top of the hill about 1,000 yards from what was then, as it is now, the main thoroughfare and overlooking a considerable proportion of the surrounding coun- try. In 1860 a church was rebuilt on the same site, and in 1914 a new structure was erected at the foot of the hill about 100 yards from the main street of the village. Col. Moses and Lydia Shepherd, referred to in the following paragraphs, are buried in the cemetery attached to the old church on the hill. A short distance beyond one comes to the eastern edge of the three-arched stone bridge shown on page 80. In "Loring Place" — private grounds to the left of that bridge, and about 50 feet from the Pike — can still be seen what is left of the once famous Henry Clay monument, long worn by time and storm, and now very much dilapidated. One can scarcely view the present condition of this monument without feeling that Henry Clay and his services to the old Pike at ^ Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock WHERE THE ROAD AND TROLLEY CURVE IN GOING INTO TRIDELPHIA The topography shown here is quite typical of the "Panhandle" of West Virginia 78 least deserves a better monument at this late day. Originally each of the four sides of the base column bore an elaborate inscription, though none of them is wholly legible now; one read: "This monument was erected by Moses and Lydia Shepherd, as a testimony of respect to Henry Clay, the eloquent defender of National rights and National Independence." and another: "Time will bring every amelioration and refine- ment most gratifying to rational man ; and the humblest flower freely plucked under the shelter of the Tree of Liberty, is more to be desired than all the wrappings of royalty: 44th year of American Independence, Anno Domini 1820." Farther back in the spacious grounds is the old Shepherd mansion, where the Kentucky statesman and other notable travelers were fre- quently entertained on their trips between the Central West and the National Capital. Col. Moses Shepherd died in 1832, at the age of 68; the inscription on the monument at his grave refers to his part in the defence of that section when it was a frontier settlement and also to his public services in aiding the construction of the Cumberland or National Road across what was then the northwestern part of Virginia. Im- mediately beyond the grounds where one would stop to view the Clay Monument, the road turns square right to cross the arched stone bridge, and passes through the business center of Elm Grove ; then we follow the trolley past the old stone building on the left, known in the busy days of the National Pike as Mrs. Gooding's, to Wheeling Park. Just opposite that park, about one and one-half miles west of Elm Grove, was Stamm's, and close to the two-mile post east of Wheeling, was Thompson's; both were noted road houses, but more patronized by teamsters than travelers on account of being so near Wheel- ing. These buildings are both standing and are in good repair, occupied as dwellings. Into and About Wheeling Many fine houses are noticed on either side of what is the most interesting and attractive as well as the most important thoroughfare of Wheeling; nor is the identity of the Pike as much lost here as in some smaller places farther east, for at least two of the milestones are noticed within the city limits. For a distance the trolley leaves the roadway, and before it returns there is a fine stretch of brick. After crossing a stone bridge over a tributary of Wheeling Creek, the road makes a left turn, and the trolley is fol- lowed through two or three suburban commun- ities; then the tracks turn off to the left and we ascend Wheeling Hill over more brick pave- ment, some of it laid upon a high and expensive Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock CLOSE VIEW OF THE HENRY CLAY MONU- MENT, ERECTED IN 1820, JUST OFF THE ROAD AT ELM GROVE, W. VA. Parts of, the original design are now entirely gone and the rest is gradually crumbling retaining wall built to assist travel up the grade. Considerable of this improvement was made pos- sible through several thousands of dollars raised by or through the Ohio Valley Automobile Club, whose headquarters are at Wheeling. From the top a very extensive bird's-eye view of Wheeling can be had, and especially of the great Ohio River Valley beyond, including the two bridges connecting the states of West Vir- ginia and Ohio. One also gains some idea of this locality as an industrial center, with a large and valuable output, especially of iron and steel products, glass, tin-plate, enamel ware and tobacco. At about the start of the corresponding downgrade is the point shown on map, page 82, as "McColloch's Leap," so named from Samuel McColIoch, who in September, 1777, during an assault on Fort Henry, escaped from the Indians by leaping from a point on the hillside into the creek at the foot. Curving around to the left, the Pike runs into Market Street to the inter- section of 10th Street where, looking to the right across Main Street, one may see the historic suspension bridge shown on page 81. 79 We are now at the western terminus of that part of the National Road contemplated by the original act of Congress, March 29, 1806, though later extensions carried it to Zanesville, Colum- bus and Springfield, Ohio, Richmond, Indian- apolis and Terre Haute, Indiana and Vandalia, Illinois, but never all the way to the "Father of Waters" at St. Louis. As early as 1805 there was a great deal of emigration through Wheel- ing, 800 wagons, carts and other vehicles cross- ing the Ohio here within three months on their way to the rich farming lands of what is now our Central West. The next year it was incor- porated as a town, and one important event fol- lowed another, for in 1811 steam navigation was opened between Pittsburgh, Wheeling, Cincin- nati, Louisville and New Orleans, and in 1818 the National Road was completed to the Ohio, providing through transportation from Baltimore, Hagerstown and Cumberland across the Al- leghenies. Two years later, Congress made its first appropriation for continuing the survey of the National Road from Wheeling to the Mis- sissippi River. In the early days, the river was crossed by ferry, but in 1837 a covered wooden bridge was completed across the narrow or west channel be- tween Wheeling Island and the Ohio shore at Bridgeport, though not across the east or main channel; and it may be interesting to know that it was replaced on the original piers by the pres- ent steel bridge only ten or twelve years ago. The main line of National Pike crossed this island over what is now known as Zane Street; the island was originally owned by Col. Ebenezer Zane, and tradition says that he pur- chased it from the Indians for a jug of whiskey. The old wooden bridge was used until 1849, when the first suspension bridge — the first one across the Ohio, and at that time the longest in the world — was completed and opened to traffic. That one was blown down in 1854 and the pres- Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock OLD STONE HOTEL AT RONEY'S POINT, W. VA., BUILT 1820, AND STILL DOING A LOCAL BUSINESS ent "suspension bridge," 1,010 feet long, was opened two years later. The "Steel Bridge" (1,600 feet long) can also be used by the west- bound tourist, but this is owned by the traction lines and carries a very heavy traffic; it is also narrow, and requires taking a more circuitous route. So the old bridge that has accommodated most of the traffic for 59 years is still the best for the motorist of today. Brief Historical Retrospect The strategic location of WTieeling made it from the earliest days a point of more than ordin- ary historic importance; in his "Journals" (1751-52) Christopher Gist speaks of reaching the present site of the city, crossing the Ohio, probably near the suspension bridge, and men- tions the "antique sculptures" (the work of the mound-builders) on the other side. It was set- tled, as Zanesburg, in 1769; and in 1774 Fort Fincastle, afterward called Fort Henry, in honor " ^ \ '^VVRIP:' "' ■^^^^^•^'^'^■- •^"^BffnP^^^^'^ Photograph Copyright J. K. Lacock THREE-ARCHED STONE BRIDGE OVER LITTLE WHEELING CREEK AT ELM GROVE, W. VA., ABOUT FIVE MILES EAST OF WHEELING 80 of Patrick Henry, was established by General Dunmore to resist Indian outbreaks. An attack on that fort in 1782 was the last battle of the Revolutionary War. After the nominal cessation of hostilities, but before the news reached the Ohio River, 260 Indians and 40 Queens Rangers, in command of Captain Brandt, attacked the settlement. Col. Ebenezer Zane, with four or five campanions was defending his barricaded house, when his supply of powder gave out. His daughter Eliza- beth, who was in the fort, filled her apron with powder and ran from the fort to her father's house, over 100 yards, in the face of a brisk fire, but was unharmed. After a long fight the settlers were victorious. A tablet about two feet high, marking the site of Fort Henry, can be seen on the curb of Main Street, about a block south of the Suspension Bridge. Wheeling was laid out by Colonel Zane in 1793, and the present name, about which there are conflicting legends, was adopted in 1795. Some claim that it was derived from the fact that the Creek, in its meandering course, "wheeled" around the hill near its junction with the Ohio; but the most generally accepted opin- ion is that it came from an Indian word mean- ing "The Head." It is said that on one occa- sion the Indians cremated a white man, placed his head on a pole and did a war-dance around it; this is supposed to have taken place at the head of Wheeling Creek and may account for the name. It was incorporated in 1806, made a city in 1836, and was the capital of West Virginia from 1863 to 1870, and also from 1875 to 1885, before Charleston was made the permanent capital. The present population of Wheeling is about 50,000, and it is the center for a tri-state business district of about 200,000. It is slightly north of the Mason and Dixon line, and was the first point on the Ohio River reached by railway across the Alleghany Mountains. The named streets run parallel with the Ohio River, while the numbered streets extend from the river to the eastern part of the city. One gains the impression that the streets in the down- town business center are narrow, possibly some- what because the city itself is hemmed in be- tween the river and the hills on either side of Wheeling Creek. But perhaps no place of its size in the United States has today as much through east and west travel as Wheeling. It has also now, as in the olden days, as large and important river commerce; and the tourist from the seaboard will probably be interested to note the characteristic boats on the Ohio, especially the large "tows" of soft coal, bound to points as far south as New Orleans. On Main Street, half a square below the suspension bridge, is the site of Fort Henry, now occupied by a lunch room or restaurant. In 1860 there were only 100 slaves in Ohio County, in which Wheeling is situated ; but there was a slave market on Market Street be- tween 10th and 11th Streets, where the audi- torium, a market and convention hall combined, now stands. Court was also held at this cor- ner, and nearby at one time was an old-fashioned whipping post; of course, all these sites have since been occupied with modern buildings. The most noted of the several old taverns was that of John McCortney, located on Main Street, running east on 14th Street to Alley B, parallel with and between Main and Market Streets. Ample grounds surrounding it afEorded plenty of Photograph Copyright 7. K. Lacock THE FAMOUS SUSPENSION BRIDGE ACROSS THE OHIO RIVER FROM WHEELING, WEST VIRGINIA, TO BRIDGEPORT, OHIO This is now, as in the olden time, the principal means of connecting the eastern and western sections of the National Road 81 room for wagons and teams to stand; and in connection with his hotel, McCortney had a large commission business. As early as 1802, Capt. Fred Beymer kept a tavern near the site of Fort Henry; and in 1806 the Wheeling town council met there, the place having been kept subsequently by Mrs. Beymer. The two prin- cipal hotels of today are the McLure, on the southeast corner of 12th and Market Streets, and the Windsor, on the west side of Main Street, between 11th and 12th, both convenient to the National Road leading east or west, and to the several routes which diverge in other directions. As a matter of mere driving, the Baltimore- Wheeling trip can be made in about fifteen hours, averaging probably eight from Baltimore to Cum- berland and about seven from Cumberland to Wheeling. Spread over two fairly long days, and with such advance knowledge of the route and its chief points of interest as this series of articles is intended to supply, it should — in favor- able weather — turn out to be a tour of unusual variety, and one full of memories well worth retaining. In running from the sea level of Chesapeake Bay across the entire Appalachian Range to the Ohio River, the tourist comes to know the different mountain ranges as would be possible in no other way except, of course, by primitive and slower means of transportation; and may frequently be surprised at the relative shortness of the trip and the little time needed to cover it as compared with the corresponding routes from the eastern seaboard to the Central West through Pittsburgh or Buffalo. Probably a large portion of motor tourists who make this run from Baltimore arrive at Wheeling with a consciousness that their inter- est in the route would be increased rather than lessened if the trip were to be literally retraced on the two following days; but with a stronger inclination to follow the old road across the Ohio River, and part if not all the way to the Mississippi. It is quite possible that another year may see this series of articles carried from Wheeling to St. Louis or beyond, and ultimately to the Pacific Coast. But one making the tour, even so far as already covered by the detailed maps, will inevitably gain a new conception of the Old National Road — particularly its strategic location and deep historic interest; and is quite likely convinced that it is the most logical eastern part of the National Old Trails Ocean-to- OcEAN Highway. WHEELING, WEST VIRGINIA, IS THE NATURAL DIVIDING POINT BETWEEN THE GREAT EASTERN AND WESTERN SECTIONS OF THE NATIONAL ROAD, AND THE TERMINUS NAMED IN THE LAW UNDER WHICH IT WAS BUILT EKOM CUMBERLAND TO THE OHIO RIVER 82 CLOSE VIEW OF THE FINE BRIDGE OVER ROCK CREEK, ON THE CONNECTICUT AVENUE ROUTE OUT OF WASHINGTON, TOWARD ROCKVILLE AND FREDERICK The location of this bridge is made clear by the condensed map of ways out of Washington toward the northwest, page 86. Rock Creek is also crossed, a trifle farther south, by the optional route out Wisconsin Avenue, past the U. S. Naval Observatory Chapter 9: BALTIMORE -WASHINGTON - FREDERICK "TRIANGLE" I HE increasing importance of Wash- ington, D. C, as a touring center, and the fact that a large number of motorists come up from that city through Rockville to Frederick, en route to Hagerstown, Cumberland and points west over the Old National Road, has led to considerable inquiry for detailed maps, descrip- tive text and illustrations around the "triangle" shown on pages 86 and 87 on the plan of those in the series of eight installments on the route between Baltimore and Wheeling. Hence this supplementary chapter which, in addition, fur- nishes an interesting and historic round trip from either Baltimore, Washington or Frederick. While it is the opinion of the writer that, mile for mile, the Baltimore-Frederick direct line is preferable — and certainly gives the tourist more of those splendid "rolling roads" described on page 18 — those who prefer to go around by Washington will be amply repaid for doing so. Topographically the two routes from tidewater to Frederick are quite different, especially on their eastern ends. Going directly west from Baltimore the tourist enters the hill country about as soon as he leaves the city, traversing a charm- ing country all the way, while the Baltimore- Washington part of the triangle is a compara- tively flat highway between the Patapsco and Potomac Rivers. The run into the national capital this way is far from being impressive to the stranger; but on the way out of Washing- ton, through its finest residential and club dis- tricts, and past several of its famous monuments, one gains an excellent idea of the city and its environs. From Baltimore to Frederick direct is 45^ miles; while from Baltimore to Wash- ington is 38 miles and Washington to Frederick is 43^ to 51% miles, according to the route taken beyond Rockville, which figures from 81^ to 89% miles, or at most somewhat less than twice the mileage on the direct route. Baltimore-Elkridge- Laurel Of the various ways out of Baltimore toward Washington, there is none simpler or better than that shown briefly on the map, page 87. 83 BALTIMORE -WASHINGTON - FREDERICK « TRIANGLE " Starting from North Charles and Mulberry Street (residence of Cardinal Gibbons on north- west corner), this uses Mulberry Street west to the intersection of Fulton Avenue; then south on Fulton Avenue to Wilkens Avenue. Turn- ing right one block on Wilkens Avenue and next left into South Monroe Street, it crosses a bridge over the B. & O. R. R. and passes Carroll Park, on the left, to the end of the street at Columbia Avenue, on which trolleys run, and where a square right turn is made. Once on Columbia Avenue the way is prac- tically direct and unmistakable to the edge of Washington, over the identical route used by the stagecoaches of Colonial days; it is shown as the "Washington Road" on most old maps of that section. At the height of the stagecoach era, when increasing travel had brought com- petition, and horses were changed every 10 or 12 miles, the running time between Baltimore and Washington was reduced to five hours, as compared with about an hour and a half needed by the motor car of today. r i AGRiCULTURAL 1 ummny station.^ ^ '*(■ ^^^^^^^^B ife™. "-"*l»«^-««^ THE "ROSSBURG INN" OF COLONIAL DAYS Now the Experiment Station of the Maryland Agricultural College Novti* for several miles there are few details to attract the attention of the tourist or to cause any delay on the trip. At two points, however, it is interesting to note how radically the pres- ent boulevard has left the line of the old road; and at the same time the motor traveler of 1915 gains some idea of the kind of highway it was* necessary to follow much of the way over this route up to within the past few years. Over to the right, at the mileage 7.7, there is a view of Relay, where horses were changed on the first regular line of rail transportation in the United States, prior to the introduction of steam in 1830. It is now a junction point on the B. & O. R. R.; a view of the depot and the first stone arch rail- road bridge in America, will be found on page 19. For location, see map, page 87. Just beyond is the scattered old village of Elkridge, where the Patapsco is crossed by an iron bridge, probably not more than six miles from where the direct road west from Baltimore crosses it by a new concrete bridge at Ellicott City. Elkridge was the site of an ancient iron furnace and foundry where, in 1835, were cast the iron water pipes used for the Croton Water Works of New York City. There are several bridges on this part of the route, including one at a bad angle over the railroad, where accidents have occurred; but the way is absolutely clear and direct. Slightly less than half way between the two cities, we come to the pleasant village of Laurel, home of the late Senator A. P. Gor- man. Some Relics of the Olden Time Going through Laurel by Washington Avenue, we shortly pass a large sanitarium on the right, and run by the little B. & O. R. R. station at Muirkirk, named from Muirkirk in the coal and iron district of Ayr County, Scotland ; over to the left across the tracks, can still be seen remains of an old furnace. As long ago as March 23, 1748, a deed was recorded in Prince George Co., Md., from Joseph Hall to Richard Snowden, "Iron Master," for a tract of land located "on the north branch of the Patuxent River, com- monly called Snowden's River, two or three miles below Patuxent Iron Works." There was an earlier iron furnace in Cecil Co., the Principio, built in 1716; but 'hat mentioned in this deed appears to be among the first. In time the furnace at Muirkirk came into the hands of the Ellicotts, founders of Ellicott City and among the most enterprising men of their day. This was the first charcoal furnace in the United States to use a hot blast in the top of the stack and to take the gas to make steam — a primitive beginning of what has be- come one of the greatest industries of the coun- try; but, of course, no iron has been manu- factured in this vicinity for many years. An in- teresting feature along the route is the painting of the gradually lessening distances to Wash- 84 BALTIMORE -WASHINGTON - FREDERICK " TRIANGLE " ington on the sides of the concrete culverts along the way. After curving right at Beltsville Station, our road crosses the interurban trolley and shortly comes alongside the Maryland Agricultural Col- lege; well over to the left are the government aviation grounds, several of the "hangars" easily seen from the road, while on the south side are extensive fields and gardens connected with the where General Lafayette is said to have stopped, is still called "Lafayette's room." The Direc- tor of the Experiment Station also has his office on the first floor of the building, which is known locally as "headquarters." An Historic Estate The next point of historic interest along our route is the old Calvert Mansion, now the Lord CHEVY CHASE CIRCLE, ON THE CONNECTICUT AVENUE KOUTIC OU r Ol' WASHINGTON, TOWARD ROCKVILLE, MARYLAND The line of the District of Columbia passes through this "circle." In front of the Chevy Chase Country Club, a short distance farther north, a left turn is made through Bradley Lane to the Rockville Turnpike institution. The main building is on the heights, a considerable distance over to the right, but of greater historical interest is the Experiment Station, alongside the road, for that is the first of the old brick taverns along this route which is preserved almost as it was in colonial times. Constructed in 1798, it is supposed to be one of the oldest, if not the oldest, building in that locality. Tradition says that the large elms standing in front of the old inn were brought over on the same ship with the brick of which the house was built and which were imported from Eng- land. In some excavating two years ago there was found a Spanish coin in a perfect state of preservation ; even the milling on the edges is perfect. On the obverse are the words "Carolus III Dei Gratia 1776," and on the reverse side, "Hispan Et. Ind Rex Me Irmi." Situated eight miles from Washington or ten miles (the usual relay distance in those days) from Georgetown, the early commercial and transfer point between this road and the boats on the Potomac River, it was called the Ross- burg Inn, a popular and historic stopping place for stagecoaches. A room on the second floor, Baltimore Country Club, only a fraction of a mile ofif our route and well worth a visit, though likely to be missed unless known of in advance. It is on the south side of the road at the subur- ban village of Riversd^e, so named because of its location near the junction of two small rivers. The Calverts were the original proprietors of Maryland; their original estate, consisting of about 8,000 acres, is Mt. Airy, located just south of Marlboro (southeast of Washington, in Prince George Co.), and is still in a good state of preservation. This was the home of Benedict Leonard Calvert, the son of Charles, fifth Lord Baltimore, who was Collector of his Lordship's customs just prior to the War of the Revolution. Riversdale became the home of his son, George Calvert, who married Rosalie Eugenia Steer ; the old mansion, built in 1802, is an excellent ex- ample of colonial architecture. It is of brick, made on the place, and covered with a cement plaster. The large main building of two stories, with a high sloping roof and connecting wings at each end, is graceful and dignified. It may be interesting to know that the sandstone pillars in front of the old mansion were originally in- tended for the Capitol at Washington; but they 85 map for details through Solh'more BALTIMORE 87 BALTIMORE -WASHINGTON - FREDERICK " TRIANGLE " were too short, and were subsequently secured by the Calverts, who afterward added the wings. Although the original estate contained thousands of acres, the old mansion is now surrounded by comparatively small grounds, while suburban homes almost crowd it on every side. Through Hyattsville and Bladensburg Then we come to Hyattsville, a comparatively modern residence suburb, where caution is neces- sary at the crossing of the trolley and the B. & O. R. R. ; a short half mile beyond, the route crosses a low concrete bridge over the Anacostia River, a tributary of the Potomac and once navig- able, though now very small and sluggish. Then we enter the dilapidated old town of Bladens- burg, passing on the right the George Washing- ton House, at least 150 years old, and probably a tavern continuously since. Bladensburg is one of the oldest settlements in Maryland; but little is now left of it except a few ancient houses, and the memory of its being an important port in colonial times. On the heights around Bladensburg was fought the battle of that name ians; the Americans sustained a severe defeat and retreated, leaving the way open to Wash- ington, which was plundered and the public buildings burned. Afterward the damages to the president's mansion were hastily repaired by painting it white, hence the term "White House." The American forces left the battlefield with such haste, and continued running so long that their retreat is frequently referred to as the "Bladensburg Races." At the wheelwright shop in the three corners just beyond the old George Washington House our route turns right, crosses the trolley and also another low concrete bridge over the Ana- costia River into the Bladensburg Road. On the right-hand side of the road in this vicinity is a little glen, shut in by hills and trees, and still called "the duelling ground." Not far away is the site of an Indian village of considerable fame, also one of their workshops ; authorities say that "From Giesboro Point on the south to Bladensburg on the north, may be found every variety of stone implement common to the North American Indian." Giesboro Point is on the BRADLEY LANE, THE CONXECTING LINK BETWEEN THE CONNECTICUT AVENUE AND WISCONSIN AVENUE ROUTES OUT OF WASHINGTON, TOWARD ROCKVILLE, PASSING THE CHEVY CHASE COUNTRY CLUB This stretch of road is just outside the District of Columbia, and is typical of the excellent suburban roads surrounding the National Capital in 1814, from whence started the celebrated Bladensburg "Races" when our troops were de- feated. In August, 1814, an expedition under the Eng- lish General, Ross, marching through Maryland to attack Washington, was met at Bladensburg by a force chiefly of Marylanders and Virgin- southern bank of the Anacostia River, where it empties into the Potomac, in the District of Columbia; from this point to and beyond Bladens- burg, "was the location of a line of Indian vil- lages and workshops of the "Nacotchtants," re- ported by Captain John Smith in 1608, and later by the early settlers of Maryland. BALTIMORE -WASHINGTON - FREDERICK " TRIANGLE " Entering the National Capital About a mile and a quarter beyond the second crossing of the Anacostia River, our route leaves Maryland and enters the District of Columbia. The "Bladensburg Road" comes to an end at the irregular six corners from which Maryland Avenue, 15th Street, N. E. and H. Street diverge; and there is a choice of several ways beyond that point. Of those none is more pleasant and in- teresting than the one given prominence on the map, page 87, using Maryland Avenue — a fine wide thoroughfare, with flower beds in the center — to Stanton Square; thence to the right, half- way around that square, and again ahead on Maryland Avenue until its direct course is broken by the capitol grounds. Now, perhaps, the best way is to turn right to the northeast corner of these grounds and then left on B Street, running in front of the Senate office building to the northwest corner of the capitol grounds at First Street. Turning left on First Street, and next right on into Pennsylvania Avenue, the tourist runs straight ahead on that great wide and historic thoroughfare to the break in its direct line at 15th Street, N. W., in front of the Treasury Building. Turn right on 15th Street along the east side of the Treasury and next left, again on Pennsylvania Avenue, coming in front of the White House. By common consent, the short piece of Pennsylvania Avenue between the Execu- tive Mansion on the left, and Lafayette Square on the right, is usually considered the route center of the national capital. A pleasant and interesting alternate would be to bear left at 15th Street, N. W., and pass to the south or rear of the Treasury Building, Sherman Statue on the left; then turn right be- tween that building and the White House to Pennsylvania Avenue. Then turn left and join the route already given, avoiding that section of 15 th Street which is the most congested street railway center of Washington, and difficult to get through in "rush hours." Or better still, if one has time bear left around the south of the Treasury as above, and continue left around the White House grounds; thence bear left through what is called the "White Lot," pass- ing to the south of the State, War and Navy Building into 17th Street. Then turn left, passing on the right the granite building of the Corcoran Art Gallery, next the white marble Continental Memorial Hall of the D. A. R. ; then the Spanish-American marble building of the Pan-American Congress, around which turn right. You will find in front of you the foundation of the Lincoln Memorial Building, now in course of construction, while to the left is the slender shaft of the Washing- ton Monument, 555 feet high. Until the road- way beyond this point is put in better condition it will probably be better to retrace our way north on 17th Street to Pennsylvania Avenue, at which point we again take up the route already sketched. The insert map, "Detail Through Washing- ton," page 87, will give the stranger making this trip a brief general idea of the principal ways into, through and out of the national capital. It also shows the location of the Na- tional Highways Association, McLachlen Build- ing, 10th and G Streets, N. W., and the Ameri- can Automobile Association, Riggs Building, op- posite the Treasury. Either office will be glad to see callers and assist them in any way, espe- cially with road information in that locality. The mapping department of the National High- ways Association, 3211 13th Street, N. W., is also shown on the map. Out of Washington — Northwest Starting on the second leg of the "triangle," now toward Rockville and Frederick, Maryland, continue west on Pennsylvania Avenue one full block beyond Lafayette Square, passing on the left the State, War and Navy Building, the largest public structure, in Washington, except the Capitol. At the farther corner leave Penn- sylvania Avenue (diagonally ahead) by turning right up 17th Street, which crosses the trolley and bears left along the west side of Farragut Square into Connecticut Avenue. Over to the right, on the east side of Farragut Square, is the Army and Navy Club ; a short distance above we pass the Longfellow Monument on the left, the John Witherspoon Monument on the right, in front of the Church of the Covenant, and then the British Embassy, on the left, to Dupont Circle. In the immediate vicinity are some of the finest residences in Washington and many points of interest, impossible even to mention in a brief travel sketch. Beyond Dupont Circle, there are two about equally important routes through the northwestern part of the city as shown on page 87 ; and the mileages are practically the same. For the convenience of tourists having occasion to make a choice between them, or possibly in- 89 BALTIMORE -WASHINGTON ■ FREDERICK « TRIANGLE " tending to go out one way, and come back the other, both are briefly described: (1) Connecticut Avenue Route {via Chevy Chase) — Bear right, halfway around Dupont Circle; then straight ahead along Connecticut Avenue to fork at Columbia Road. Leave trolley by bearing left at the fine house of the late A. M. Lothrop in the angle, shortly winding left and right across the Connecticut Avenue high- way bridge shown on the photograph on page 83; this bridge crosses Rock Creek, which is here in a deep, wide glen and from it — over to the left — can be seen the United States Naval Observatory, passed by the Wisconsin Avenue route (No. 2). Continue out Connecticut Ave- TYPICAL STRETCH ALONG THE KUCKVILLE PIKE With just a suggestion of the beautiful "rolling roads" found to some extent on the Washington-Frederick route, but which are much more pronounced and frequent on the direct route west from Baltimore to Frederick nue through the beautiful subdivision of Chevy Chase, past the Zoological Park, and the Army and Navy Preparatory School, both on the right. Just teyond the latter the tourist using this route has the first view of the beautiful "rolling roads" so conspicuous on the direct line from Baltimore to Frederick. Next we come to Chevy Chase Circle, through which runs the line of the District of Columbia; and after curving right around that circle, we are again in Mary- land. On the left just beyond is the large stone building of the Chevy Chase Club ; we turn next left beyond the club grounds into Bradley Lane and follow along to its end, where the trolley is again met. A right turn would put us on the direct road to Rockville; but before describ- ing same beyond, we will go back to Dupont Circle and trace the other route out Wisconsin Avenue. (2) Wisconsin Avenue Route {contributed by Mrs. Bertha Hall Talbott) — Again taking our departure from Dupont Circle, turn right, two-thirds of the way around the circle; bear right into Massachusetts Avenue, passing the old brick residence of James G. Blaine, and the buff brick residence of Thomas F. Walsh, both on the left, and other magnificent private residences. Bear right around Sheridan Circle, crossing Rock Creek, to and around the large circle of the United States Naval Observatory on left; here is the home of the U. S. Nautical Almanac and of the astronomical work of the government. This point is just above Georgetown, one mile west of which, on the Potomac River, were made the first cannon cast in this country, the old foundry being in use also during the Revolution- ary War. Continue up the hill, Episcopal Cathedral Close on the right, pass the boys' school in the corner; at the top cross the trolley and turn right with it on Wisconsin Avenue. If not running your speedometer against your watch, it is worth while to turn left at this point, and go south two blocks on Wisconsin Avenue to see the panorama of Washington. 'Way up to the left rises the square white tower of the Soldiers Home, and just to the left of that one of the newer buildings of that group. Swinging around to the right, there is a view of many of Washington's high-class apartment houses on the heights; then the round end of the dome of the new Union Station; the square red brick Pension Office, sometimes called "Meigs' barn"; the white walls of the Senate office building; the low, round golden dome of the Library of Congress; the comparatively slender white dome of the Capitol; the square gray tower of the City Post Office, and then the broad sweep of the Potomac River, from which appears to rise the slender shaft of the Wash- ington Monument. Still farther around, and directly down Wis- consin Avenue, may be seen the three tall masts of the new government wireless plant at Fort Myer, in Virginia, on a part of the Arlington estate of Gen. Robert E. Lee. This plant is the most powerful in this country, and is now in regular communication with the plant on the 90 BALTIMORE -WASHINGTON - FREDERICK " TRIANGLE ' Eiflel Tower in Paris. Returning from this fine view of Washington, we go back up Wisconsin Avenue, and resume our trip by following the trolleys straight ahead past the Cathedral Close on right. Points of Special Interest Directly through the arched gateway may be seen the Peace Cross, erected in 1898 at the close of the Spanish War; and just to the left stands the brown building of old St. Alban's Church (named in memory of the first martyr of the British Church), now almost surrounded by stone additions. To the left, near the roadway, stands the boulder erected by the Sons of Colonial Wars to commemorate the passing along this road, April 14, 1755, of one division of the army of General Braddock, on its disastrous march to Fort Duquesne. To those interested in the history of the Protestant Episcopal Church, it will be well worth while to spend a few minutes within the grounds to note the Peace Cross, around which open air exercises are regularly held; to visit the Bethlehem Chapel, into the foundation of which is built the Bethlehem Stone, and which chapel will later become a part of the great cathedral, 480 feet long, and to cost over five million dollars. Nearby, in the Little Sanc- tuary,, stands the wonderfully beautiful Jeru- salem Altar, and many interesting articles from the Holy Land and other historic places. The last building within the Close is the girls school; and leaving that on the right, we con- tinue out Wisconsin Avenue, passing, on the left, the long stone wall and hedge of the coun- try estate of John R. McLean, the two sets of iron gates of which were originally in Druid Hill Park, Baltimore. This is a part of the original estate of "Friendship" containing 3,124 acres granted by the State of Maryland in 1711 to Thomas Addison and James Stoddard, in com- memoration of which Mr. McLean has set into the wall a drinking fountain for horses, appro- priate inscribed. Passing the gateway glimpses may be had of the rambling colonial manor house, for years owned by the Catholic Church, and used by the priests for their regular Retreat. Passing through what was formerly Tennally- town, now merged into Washington, we cross the district line into Montgomery County, Maryland, exactly where one crosses the trolley; in climbing the next hill, note the golf links of the Chevy Chase Club on the right, with the Club House in the distance on Connecticut Avenue. We are now in sight of the other route, the two gradu- ally drawing together shortly after passing the Naval Observatory. This club takes its name from the original tract of land called "Chevy Chase," granted to Col. Joseph Belt, to whose memory a boulder and inscribed tablet was erected about two years ago. Nearby, but not in sight from the road, is the old "Clean Drinking Manor," granted to John Coates in 1699, and later owned by one of his descendants, Walter Coates Jones, upon whose tombstone is inscribed: "Here lies the body and bones Of old Walter Coates Jones; By his not thinking. He lost 'Clean Drinking'; And by his shallow pate, He lost his vast estate." At the end of the Chevy Chase golf links, we intersect the west end of Bradley Lane, from which point the two routes are identical. TABLET ON LEFT (NORTHBOUND) JUST BEFORE REACHING CLARKSBURG, MARYLAND Old tavern, badly out of repair, in the background; this hotel had a reputation even when a part of Braddock's army went past in 1755 To AND Through Rockville Continuing the trip north, whichever way is used out of Washington, our route is direct through the suburban village of Bethesda. Thence it passes over the railroad to the fork beyond; here leave the trolley by keeping prac- tically straight ahead on the Rockville Pike. That part of this highway from the District line to Rockville, which had already been graded and macadamized by Montgomery County was taken over about three years ago by the Highway De- partment of the U. S. Government, and is now maintained by it for the purpose of experiment- ing with the different kinds of road surfacing. 91 BALTIMORE -WASHINGTON ■ FREDERICK " TRIANGLE " Signs giving the number and character of the "experiment" will be noted along the way. Shortly we cross the trolley, which is followed the balance of the way into Rockville, the ap- proach to which is indicated in advance by the tall water tower, brick with an iron top, seen over to the right. Pass the Court House grounds on left, upon the near corner of which stands a boulder erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution to mark the site of "Law- rence Owens' Ordinary,"* where Braddock made his first camp in Maryland. The place was then known as Williamsburg, and the old tavern kept by Owens was about the center of the present town of Rockville. Immediately opposite, on the right, stands the monument to the Confeder- ate soldiers of Montgomery County, who served in the war between the States. After a slight curve to the left, we come to the prominent intersection of Montgomery Ave- nue and Washington Street (Potomac Electric Building on the near left-hand corner), where for the first time (September, 1915), may be seen the D. A. R. red, white and blue stencils on telegraph poles. This is the beginning, on the eastern end, of what will probably become in time a complete system of these markings over the most historic and interesting route to the Pacific Coast; and it is only fair to credit this good beginning largely to Mrs. Wm. Hyde Tal- bott, of Rockville, Chairman National Old Trails Road Committee for Maryland. Turning right into Washington Street, we follow the main route out of Rockville, 4.6 miles beyond which, at the east edge of Gaithersburg, we pass a fork with the sign "Frederick" and cross the railroad; on the right, just beyond is a mag- nificent oak, still called the "Braddock Oak." Go through Gaithersburg, past Forest Oak Cemetery, on the left; in the southern part of the village, but not in sight from the road, is located a small government observatory, one of four es- tablished some years ago for the purpose of mak- ing sitpultaneous observations to ascertain the truth of the theory that the earth wabbles on its axis. At the west end of Gaithersburg begins a stretch of concrete road, part of which is a relocation taking the place of the former high- way over Middlebrooke Hill. The points where the old route enters and leaves the present con- crete road are easily identified. Next is Henderson's Corner, the lower point on the smaller triangle shown on page 86, its other two points being Ridgeville and Fred- erick. From here on there is a choice of two routes, the one straightaway to the left being the continuation of the road followed by Brad- dock's expedition of 1755, over which we have been traveling; this is about eight miles shorter than the other and a typical old-style pike, rough • "Ordinary," a term once in common use to distinguish an inn or tavern where accommodations could be had at stated prices, sometimes these prices were limited by order of the court — an interesting side-light on the relations of the tavern keeper and the traveling public in colonial times. PENNSYLVANIA MONUMENT, ON THE RIGHT (NORTHBOUND) Seven-tenths of a mile south of the Monocacy River bridge; a short distance beyond, on the north side of the Monocacy and on the opposite side of the road, is the New Jersey monument. See upper left-hand corner of map, page 86 in spots and next to impassable in wet weather. Having the historical interest largely in view throughout this series of articles, we are first describing the balance of the way to Frederick over the old direct road ; but the map shows in a heavier line the better way through Damascus and Ridgeville (which should always be taken after any considerable rain), and the description follows on page 93. Last Stretch into Frederick (Over the direct historic route) : at Hender- son's Corner continue straight ahead past the better right-hand road leading to Damascus and Ridgeville, noticing on the left, just before reach- ing Clarksburg, a large boulder erected by the "Daughters of the American Revolution to mark the site of "Dowden's Ordinary," the second 92 BALTIMORE -WASHINGTON - FREDERICK* ''TftlkNGLS^n '. : •': • / camp of Braddock in Maryland. A portion of this old building is still standing, much dilapi- dated, after a hundred and sixty years. Shortly after passing through Clarksburg, the views take on a wider scope and gain in interest. Far over to the left is the first view of the most easterly range of the Blue Ridge Moun- tains; and closer on the right are the fertile fields of Frederick County, spread out as far as the eye can see. This is a part of "Carroll's Manor," one of the properties of Charles Car- roll, of Carrollton, and unexcelled for beauti- ful rolling country. Just before reaching Hyatts- town there is a short, steep downgrade where careful driving is necessary; from it can be had a fine view of the small village in the distance. Some portions of this road are narrow, and at least two of the bridges were found in poor con- dition (September, 1915). Follow the direct and unmistakable road through Kyattstown, just beyond which we cross the line into Frederick County and pass through the first one of the three toll gates (8 cents toll), which are among the last in Maryland. From this point through and beyond Urbana we pass, about two miles away over to the left. Sugar- loaf Mountain, used by the Federal Army dur- ing the Civil War, as a signal station to Wash- ington. At the southern foot of this mountain was built the first railroad in Maryland, for transporting material for the construction of the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal aqueduct over the Monocacy River. Beyond Urbana, on the range of hills bound- ing the Monocacy River, we pass through the field of the battle of the Monocacy* where, on July 9, 1864, the Confederates under Gen. Jubal Early, in their march toward Washington, de- feated and pushed back the Federals under Gen. Lew Wallace. Upon this battlefield several monuments have been erected, the first of which is the one of Pennsylvania, in a field on the right, but visible from the road. Then we pay 10 cents at the second toll gate, and cross an iron bridge over the Monocacy River; almost immediately beyond is a bridge over the B. & O. R. R. tracks ("Monocacy Junction"), and to the left of it the monument to the New Jersey volunteers. Also on the left our route passes a very large boulder overlooking the Monocacy battlefield and erected to the memory of the Confederates who fell in that struggle. The road here is level and fine, fully equal to the approach into Fred- erick by the direct road from Baltimore. Next • For further reference to the Battle of Monocacy, see page 20. is the third and last toll gate (8 cents), beyond which we enter South Market Street, Frederick, at the lower edge of the city. Mt. Olivet Cemetery will be seen on the left; just inside the gate stands the bronze statue of Francis Scott Key, author of the "Star Spangled Banner." A short distance beyond, on the right, is the Deaf and Dumb Institute, set in spacious grounds. The street is wide and in excellent shape; pick- ing up the trolley on the left, same is followed to the center of Frederick. Henderson's Corner-Ridgeville Option. For the benefit of strangers who may prefer this longer and better way, a brief description is given, starting from Henderson's Corner and going over the other and longer route along the two sides of the smaller triangle. Turn right on new macadam, appropriately called the "Ridge Road" for, though it encounters some valleys, it follows "Parr's Ridge," which extends from the Potomac River over a hundred miles up into Pennsylvania. Then pass through the crossroads at Brink to Cedar Grove, through which we coast; now we climb Poole's Hill, 802 feet above tidewater, which is descended by a sequence of curves. Bear right into Damascus, and take carefully the sharp left turn around the store building onto the concrete again; thence through Clagettsville to the hill, down which we coast (above the rail- road tunnel) into Ridgeville. Straight ahead as we descend the grade is a large greenhouse; and at the bottom, we turn left — now on the direct road west from Baltimore. As practically all of the travel from Baltimore to Frederick, and a large part of that from Washington, con- centrates at these four corners, the motor traffic is unusually heavy; and care is advisable in mak- ing a turn either way. From now on we are to travel about 14 miles, described in more detail on page 20, through Newmarket and over a succession of beautiful rolling hills, gradually working down into the Monocacy Valley. At the foot the road crosses the Monocacy River over the wonderful old "Jug bridge" (shown in Chapter 2, page 21), from the western end of which it literally rises into Frederick. Coming to the central four corners at Patrick and Market Streets, with the two banks on diagonally opposite corners, we are also at the end of the Washington option ; ahead — west — stretches the Baltimore-Cumberland Pike to Cumberland, and the Old National Road the balance of the way to the Ohio River at Wheeling. 93 A GRAPHIC ILLUSTRATION OF THE SAVING OF DISTANCE BY THE OLD NATIONAL ROAD BETWEEN TIDEWATER AT WASHINGTON (POTOMAC RIVER) OR BALTIMORE (CHESAPEAKE BAY), AND THE OHIO RIVER AT WHEELING, W. VA., ALSO ITS DIRECTNESS ACROSS OHIO, INDIANA AND ILLINOIS 94 DEDICATED BY THE National Highways Association TO Vincent Astor, Esq. The descendant and present living head of their illustrious family. So inseparably a part of the "Winning of the West" over the "Old Trails," the forerunners of our National Highways :: :: :: :: JOHN JACOB ASTOR, the First Courtesy of the Netu York Sun ASTORIA— As it was Founded in 1811 Courtesy of the Neiv York Sun 95 a o 3 ' 96 RETURN TO the circulation desk of any University of California Library or to the NORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY BIdg. 400, Richmond Field Station University of California # Richmond, CA 94804-4698 ■"# JANl ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS 2-month loans may be renewed by calling (415)642-6233 1 -year loans may be recharged by bringing books to NRLF Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days prior to due date DUE AS STAMPED BELOW FEE 'c 121989 i\iQV 281989 LD XJ/^^^it'Kf 35587G UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA UBRARY IMP Pilli llMM tlMlHl Hit l!!!ltlllH!l)MIMI!,j';i|f|{]|jt!rM|jj 'IMMI Hlillllj.. ::ili lliilllllllll!!i;M< iiii) Hit n '!! iL,>„M„ >i)li(ihlllilMI|t ^jiiiiiii !!!!!;