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THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
SCENES AND ADVENTURES
IX
GREAT NAMAQUALAND.
BY THE
REV. BENJAMIN RIDSDALE.
LONDON :
T. WOOLMEB, 2, CASTLE STREET, CITY ROAD, E.G.
AND 66, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C.
1883.
LONDON :
PRINTED BY BEVERIDGE AND MILLER,
HOLBORN PRINTING WORKS. FULLWOOD'S RENTS, W.C.
IDT
72O
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER PAGE
I. THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH ... 1
II. GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE ..... 57
III. HARD AT WORK . 108
IV. DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES 181
V. TOILS AND TRIUMPHS 220
VI. JOYS AND SORROWS . , 265
1198963
CHAPTER I.
THKOUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH.
HAVING offered my services to the Wcsleyan Missionary
Society for missionary work abroad, I received an
appointment to South Africa, and with my wife left
England in the Persia for the Cape of Good Hope on the
4th of September, 1843. In due time we arrived safely
at Cape Town, after a fair passage, and a day or two
afterwards it was arranged that I should proceed to
Nisbett Bath, in Great Namaqualand, to carry on the
work so hopefully begun by the late Rev. E. Cook.
Preparations for the journey were instantly commenced.
Everything demanded haste. The travelling season was
already past, and every day_fhe sun was gathering fresh
power, vegetation withering under its heat; the foun-
tains and pools along the path we must travel were
rapidly drying up ; all tending to make a journey of six
hundred miles through a waste wilderness an exceed-
ingly trying and even dangerous thing ; in addition to
2 CHAPTER I.
which, the people on the station had been bereft of their
missionary by death, and it was highly desirable that at
the earliest possible opportunity the new missionary
should be at his post. As the Nisbett Bath mission
station was directly in the route of the brethren pro-
ceeding to the Damara country, it was arranged that
Mr. Tindall and myself should start together, leaving
Mr. Haddy and family to follow in a week.
The preparations we had to make for our journey
were of a very extensive and novel kind. As we were
going into the interior for two years, during which time
we should have no chance of making purchases, a list of
all the articles that might prove necessary during that
lengthened stay had to be carefully prepared. Tea,
sugar, coffee, rice, &c., had to be purchased wholesale,
our medicine chest had to be replenished with drugs, and
many other little et ceteras needed attention. As our
family was small, our own wants would soon have been
supplied ; but the wants of others had to be considered.
As Her Majesty's coin is not current in those realms,
we had to convert notes and gold into pins, needles,
thread, buttons, handkerchiefs, shirts, trowsers, waist-
coats, jackets, hats, prints, calico, powder, shot, lead,
tin, and everything acceptable to the natives, in order
that on our arrival we might exchange them for sheep
and goats, milch cows and oxen, for the use of the
mission family, and that with these articles we might
pay native servants, and secure the help of the people
in any kind of service we might require of them. The
visiting of store after store to effect these purchases was
both novel and wearisome : but having the wise counsel
of our experienced friend, Mr. Tindall, we accomplished
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 6
all to admiration ; though, as bale after bale and parcel
after parcel arrived, we began to wonder how, after all,
we should be able to stow them into our one waggon, which
at the same time was to serve as our house and home ;
and seriously to doubt whether our one team of oxen
would be able to draw so much over the sandy plains
and rocky mountains between Cape Town and our
distant station.
AVe were now very curious to see the waggon in
which we were to travel. We found it about thirteen
feet in length, and three feet broad at the bottom, but
gradually widening upwards to the top of its sloping
sides. A chest behind, of large dimensions, made to
suit the shape of the waggon, and a similar one in front ?
which served as the seat of the waggon driver, we saw
would prove very convenient for the stowage of numerous
loose articles ; whilst on each side, at the exterior of the
waggon, another smaller chest was attached for articles
required during the course of every day. A light and
neat framework of wood sprang from each of the high
sides of the waggon, forming a cap-tent throughout the
entire length. This was covered first with a well-
painted sail-cloth to render it rain-proof; then, as a
protection from the heat of the sun, a layer of long
reed-mats was thrown over the tent from side to side, and
fastened down close upon the painted cloth; and finally, a
white sail-cloth, cut to shape, and neatly buttoned down
on each side, served as an exterior covering to all ; in
addition to which a flap of the same material hung in
front, and another behind, both of which could be rolled
up or closely buttoned down at the convenience of the
travellers. As the waggon had to be drawn by oxen,
4 CHAPTER I.
a pole was attached to the fore axle, like the pole of our
English carriages ; to the extremity of this pole the
trek tow, or drawing-line, Avas attached; this was made
of ox-hide cut into long strips or thongs, plaited to-
gether, and, when new, about two inches in diameter.
As our waggons were to have long teams, the tow was
fifty-six feet in length. The first yoke was fixed at
the end of the pole, and the rest at a distance of eight
feet throughout the whole length of the line; so thnt tin-
team, when yoked and drawing, was of the above length.
An inspection of our conveyance was, on the whole,
very satisfactory; some wrong notions were corrected,
and we found it by no means the clumsy vehicle which
the name of waggon is apt to suggest to an English
mind.
At last, after what seemed to us a somewhat long
detention in Cape Town, the day arrived when the pro-
cess of packing had to be commenced; a duty that
required considerable skill and care, so that no space
might be lost, and everything made to fit together in
the most compact manner possible. "When all was
completed, the space left for our convenience was
wofully limited. The sleeping apartment was high up
in the waggon, much too near to the roof, whilst the space
in front, between the stretcher and the waggon driver,
was only just sufficient to sit at ease as we travelled.
Some of our good friends were quite concerned at the
discomfort which they saw we should experience, and
had serious fears lest in passing over roads that slope
down to one side, the waggon packed to such a height
should go over. These were the reasons urged why we
should leave some of our packages behind. But though
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO KISBETT BATH. 5
not very experienced travellers, we were sufficiently
awake to know that there were no shops in Namaqua-
land ; and as everything we had would be necessary as
soon as we reached the station, we thought an incon-
venience of a few weeks could be better borne than one
of two years ; so we resolved on taking the full waggon
load.
When everything else was ready, a swarthy son of
the Cape came one morning, as we sat at breakfast, to
say, ;i If you please, tho oxes has strayed ; " so we had
a little longer to wait. On Monday, 27th of November,
however, they were brought and yoked to the waggons,
and we joyfully took our leave of Cape Town for the
interior, accompanied for the first stage by a number of
kind friends and ministerial brethren. This was inten-
tionally a short stage of about three miles, so that our
friends, who had to return on foot, might not be incon-
venienced. Salt Ixiver was the name of the place of
our halt ; and here, whilst the tea was being prepared
in gipsy fashion, anxious to make a rapid acquisition
of all knowledge likely to be useful in interior life, and
knowing that wild beasts of various kinds were by no
means scarce, and that even lions sometimes showed
themselves in the neighbourhood of my station, I made
loose my rifle for the purpose of practising upon some
lifeless object, wishful to rival in accuracy of aim the
chosen men of Benjamin,__every one of whom " could
sling stones at a hair breadth, and not miss." I thrust
a piece of wood, fourteen inches long by two wide, into
the sand, and took deliberate aim. " Wait, Sir, wait,
Sir," cried Aaron, the " oxes " man, and instantly
rushed up and put his hat on the stick, by way of
6 CHAPTER I.
showing his confidence in my ability to miss ! I begged
him to remove it, promising that if he refused, I would
do my best to make a hole in it. " Shoot, Sir, shoot,"
was the only reply. So I obeyed, and sent the ball
through his hat and the wood, and out on the other
side. Poor Aaron looked serious, but when I told him
the holes would serve as ventilators to keep his head
cool, and added a shilling by way of making amends, he
appeared to be comforted ; whilst I hoped after a little
practice to become a thorough Bcnjamite. From the
experiment of that hour, I inferred that since I could
strike a hat, I might, in case of need, be able to slay a
lion, and put away my rifle with all the satisfaction
this kind of reasoning could impart. But mere trifles
sometimes originate very serious reports. Five weeks
afterwards I was startled by a person addressing me with,
" Why, Mr. R., I understand you had a very narrow
escape from killing a man on the journ Filled
with astonishment, I asked, " How so ? " " Why, you
were firing your rifle, we heard, and the ball passed
through a man's hat ! " How very natural to conclude
that the man's head must have been in it, and that
consequently the danger was imminent !
When our tea was ready, the whole company found
seats for themselves on the grass, and partook of the
refreshing beverage : after which we all united in sing-
ing a hymn ; one or two of the brethren prayed, and
we parted, some for the town, and others for the
wilderness.
As soon as the friends were gone, the oxen were
again put to the yoke, and we commenced another stage
in the cool of the day. Brother Tiiidall's waggon,
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. '(
containing himself, wife, and son, an intelligent and
agreeable youth of about twelve years of age, went
first. Ours followed at a short distance. The first
waggon was drawn by a team of sixteen red oxen, ours
by a team of as many black ones ; a number that
at first appeared to us, strangers, unnecessarily large ;
but one that we afterwards found only just adequate to
the task to be performed. Each waggon had its own
native driver, who sat on the fore-chest, or walked by
the side of his team, wielding a u-liip of enormous
dimensions, the stick being about fourteen feet, and the
thong of the same length, enabling him to apply the
stimulus to a slinking ox at a considerable distance.
The crack of these huge weapons, when wielded by a
skilful hand, is quite startling to persons unaccustomed
to the sound, and is more like the explosion of a rifle
than the voice of a whip-lash. The best lash is made
of a slender strip of the skin of an antelope, called the
koodoo, and the smacking of the whip itself is quite an
accomplishment. A blow from such a weapon, skilfully
applied, has a most terrible effect. An angry or cruel
driver can easily lash through the hides of his oxen, and
bring the blood in streams, and I have occasionally seen
some poor oxen that had been fearfully lacerated all
over by the merciless drivers. It is, however, well
known to the natives that missionaries never allow
their oxen to be ill-treated, and therefore, by the
drivers in their employ ,~~cruelty was never attempted.
In addition to a driver, we had also a leader attached
to each waggon ; indeed, a waggon is never properly
" found " without one. A thong is attached to the
outermost horn of each of the two oxen foremost in the
CHAPTER I.
team, and the leader, taking the middle of this thong in
his hand, walks in front of the team. When the path
is good, the duties of the leader are light, as he can
then throw up the thong on the horns of the oxen, and
seat himself by the side of the driver. But when the
path is rocky, or abrupt descents into watercourses
periodically crossing the path occur, intelligence and
care are required in the leader, as well as in the driver,
otherwise the waggon may be overturned. To complete
the travelling party, another man is necessary to take
charge of a few milch goats and slaughter sheep, and a
few spare oxen to supply the places of any of the regular
teams that may fail by the way. As Mr. Tindall and
myself travelled in company, one man of this kind was
sufficient for the purpose, so that five men and one
Damara female servant formed the number of natives
who travelled with us.
We travelled on till rather late in the day, when our
oxen were allowed to graze a little ; and then, with
thongs around their horns, were attached to the yokes,
as the latter lay upon the ground, to rest for the night.
We were still on the Cape Flats, the grand outline of
Table Mountain was still in view ; the sound of the nine
o'clock gun, fired every night at the Castle, fell heavily
on our ear, and made us still feel that we were within
the reach of civilised life. Whilst our men were sitting
around their fire watching the boiling of the pot in
which their evening meal was being prepared, we left
our waggons, with Bible and hymn-book in hand, to
join them, and after singing a Dutch hymn, witli which
they were familiar, we all knelt down under the starry
heavens, and committed ourselves to the protection of
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 9
the God of missions. Our men soon finished their
meal, wrapped themselves up in their karosses, turned
their feet towards the fire, and lay stretched out in all
directions, like lines radiating from the centre to the
circumference of a circle, and were soon sleeping pro-
foundly. Our travelling apartment was closed for the
night, and, though limited in its dimensions, and lacking
some of the conveniences of a " fixed property," was
quite as comfortable as we could have ever imagined a
waggon to be. The excitement and actual labour of the
day had wearied us, and " tired nature's sweet restorer,
balmy sleep," was near at hand. Before the day
dawned, our men were up, the oxen placed in the yoke,
and we were travelling on our morning stage over the
sandy soil before we awoke ; and as the stage was rather
long, and the motion of the waggon was new to us, it
produced an uncomfortable sensation, analogous to the
earlier developments of sea-sickness an effect often
produced on inexperienced travellers. By seven we
reached the outspan place, or camping ground. Here
the traveller draws up his waggon, looses his oxen from
the yoke, and refreshes himself. In starting on such
a journey we have a list of all the places suitable for
u outspanning " between Cape Town and our station;
places where, in the proper season for travelling, we
generally find both water and grass. In this long
journey of six hundred miles, which, with our heavy
waggons, would occupy, including necessary rests, eight
weeks, we had only forty-two such places on our list,
with the exact number of hours it would take our oxen
to go from one stage to another ; so that, day by day,
we were under the necessity of pushing on to a certain
10 CHAPTER I.
point, if wo had any regard for our own comfort, and
that of our poor oxen.
We were now at Baas Harriets Fontein, the second
place on our list. As soon as the oxen were unyoked
to graze, one man made a fire not far from the waggon,
another opened the water barrel, and filled the kettle ;
this was put over the fire, resting on two or three large
stones, .which had been evidently used by travellers
before for a similar purpose. Clean new mats of native
reed were spread on the grass, and all the array of
a breakfast-table soon appeared in the shade of our
waggons. We sat around on our camp-stools, or reclined
on the mats, as taste or convenience dictated, and
heartily enjoyed our morning meal and the magnificent
scenery before us. We had passed over the lowlands
of the Cape Flats, which are almost on a level with
the sea, and were now on rising ground. Table
Mountain, and the other mountains of the Cape pen-
insula, stood out to view in all their native grandeur,
whilst Cape Town, with its mass of white buildings
stretching all along the base of Table and Lion Moun-
tains, and washed by the blue waters of Table Bay,
glittered resplendently in the sunshine, and formed a
beautiful sight, though twenty-seven miles away. These
were noble accompaniments of the breakfast-table ; but
there was one drawback to its full enjoyment, viz., a
too liberal supply of sand scattered by a strong wind
over our bread and butter, and eggs, and into our
coffee. It was not so bad in the latter case, as, owing
to its specific gravity, it soon found its way to the
bottom of our cups, but in the process of mastication
wo found the greatest discomfort, and were obliged to
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 11
withdraw to the shelter of our waggons to finish the
meal. As it was our intention to maintain family
prayer throughout the journey, after breakfast, our
people, being summoned, seated themselves in a semi-
circle upon the grass ; a portion of the Dutch Scriptures
was read, a hymn sung, and, as it was my turn to
officiate, I resolved to make the best use of the amount
of Dutch I had acquired, by endeavouring to offer
prayer in that language. For a short time I proceeded
with tolerable liberty, when, a suitable term failing to
offer itself, I naturally resorted to my mother tongue
for expression. The people, however, were pleased at
the early attempt, and as it was my main object during
the journey to advance in the language, and be ready
for duty as soon as I should reach my station, I had
no doubt of success ; especially as I had diligently pur-
sued my studies during the voyage, and intended to do
so on the journey, having the advantage of two critics
at hand, in Mr. Tindall and his son, both of whom were
familiar with the language.
As we were not to resume our journey till the cool
of the afternoon, it only remained that a few little
matters should be attended to, and then the men would
have some leisure. Each of the mission party would
be able with comfort to read, write, and study, and
the ladies to sew or converse at will. One of the
men's first duties was the greasing of the wheels,
which has to be done daily, when the waggons are
heavily laden. To do this, one man, with a long lever
placed on a suitable fulcrum, raises one side of the
waggon, another draws off the wheel to near the ex-
tremity of the axle, when its point is allowed to rest
12 CHAPTER I.
just within the nave, whilst a third smears the axle with
a brush, the axle is again slightly raised by the lever,
the wheel is pushed up into its place, the linchpin put
in, and everything is ready. This process has to be
repeated to every wheel. On this occasion, whilst one
of the front wheels of Mr. Tindall's waggon was being
greased, and Mrs. Tindall was standing on the front of
the waggon, busily washing up the breakfast things, the
wheel was drawn off too far, the man at the lever let
go his hold, and down came the waggon, the point of the
fore-axle resting on the ground. Down came poor
Mrs. Tindall too, and was sadly grazed and shaken,
whilst some of her cups and saucers were broken a
serious matter in the wilderness, where they cannot be
replaced. Fortunately she had laid in a stock in anti-
cipation of such accidents.
A considerable portion of the morning was spent in
endeavouring to raise the axle, and replace the wheel ;
but as we could not muster sufficient strength, we were
glad to avail ourselves of the aid of some men who
happened to be passing, and at length succeeded.
About noon we received a visit from a Boer whose
farm was near. Though living so near to Cape Town, he
was far less polished in appearance and manners than
many I have since met very far up in the interior, but
his disposition was kind and friendly. We supplied
ourselves with eggs from his house at a cheap rate, and
exchanged two of our weakly oxen for two stronger
ones, paying him the difference. At four p.m. the
wind began to blow up cool, and we commenced prepa-
rations for our next stage. The oxen in charge of one
of the men had wandered a considerable distance, and
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 13
we imagined a long time would elapse before they could
be sought and found. It was not necessary, however,
to dispatch another man in search, as a more ready
method was at command. Our waggoner, with his
huge whip, just went to the brow of the hill, turned
his face in the direction in which he supposed the
oxen were grazing, smacked his whip about half a
dozen times, and, though he could not see them, quietly
returned to the waggon, put up the whip, and proceeded
to make all ready for the journey, never doubting that
by the time we should be ready, the man with the oxen
would be at our service. My curiosity was awakened,
and I was anxiously on the look out, feeling certain that
we should be detained by the non-appearance of the
oxen at the proper time. I had not gazed long, however,
before I saw a small dust rising from amongst the low
bushes of the plain below, and, on a little minute exami-
nation, perceived indistinctly some objects moving along
the plain. They proved to be our oxen. The watcher
had known what time to expect the summons, ho
had heard the cracking of the whip, and had instantly
turned with his numerous charge towards the place of
our encampment. The wheel-oxen were first yoked,
then the next couple, and so on to the end. Sometimes
an ox will prove refractory, especially if young and
untaught, but the well-trained and experienced oxen
know their work, follow with alacrity, and instinctively
incline the head to receive tEeT yoke. To my unpractised
eye, the black oxen composing our team looked so much
alike, that it seemed impossible to distinguish one from
another. Yet the driver called each ox by his name,
and each answered to it. I resolved, therefore, to
14 CHAPTER I.
extend my knowledge in this direction, especially as
these oxen were destined to be my companions in travel,
not only on this journey, but on many a future one.
Walking by the side of the team as they travelled, I
wrote down their names, and a brief description of some
peculiarities by which each might be readily distin-
guished, as a patch of white on the flank, the shoulder,
or knee ; circular, or spreading horns ; and I soon
learned a difference in the faces of the animals ; as a
vicious, or a gentle, placid eye ; a countenance that
was benevolent, inviting confidence, or one that was
sinister, and that taught one to be wary. In this way,
by an occasional reference to my paper, I soon became
perfectly acquainted with every ox in my team.
On the 29th we passed through Malmesbury, a pic-
turesque little village, about forty miles from Cape
Town. The population consists almost exclusively of
Dutch residents, with their native servants. The houses
are regularly built, have a respectable appearance, and
are many of them tastefully adorned with little flower
gardens in front, enclosed by railings. The Dutch
Reformed Church, the residence of the minister, a
school for the instruction of all classes, and the public
offices, all stand on one side of the principal square of
the village. The black soil surrounding the village,
and pretty generally prevailing throughout the district,
is admirably calculated for the produce of grain, the
supply of which is so plentiful, and the quality so good,
that this division has been called " the granary of the
colony."
On Friday, December 1st, 1843, we reached the Berg
River. The river hns its rise in the mountains which
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 15
enclose the vale of Draakenstein, and discharges itself
on the west coast in St. Helena Bay. We were at a
part of the river called Tron's Drift, at no great distance
from the sea ; it was of considerable breadth, with a
depth probably of eight or ten feet. There are still two
or three hippopotami preserved in the deep pits of the
river, which are not allowed to be shot, as no others are
found south of the Orange River. Although they are
extremely timid in general, only just raising the nostrils
above water to breathe, and instantly sinking them-
selves at the least noise, these are said to be so tame, as
on leaving the water to graze near the house of the
Dutch Boer, who may be called their protector. Our
mode of crossing was novel, viz., on a " pout," or
floating bridge. This was drawn up close to the south
bank of the river, and our waggons, one at a time, were
drawn on to it by the two a after-oxen " only, assisted
by men at the wheels, and taken with all its burden to
the other side, towing lines being firmly attached on
each side of the river, and running along both sides of
the " pont " to prevent its being drifted by the stream.
By these lines it was drawn towards the north shore.
Our oxen were driven in, and swam over with ease.
We breakfasted and dined under the shade of a laro;e
o
white jessamine tree ; but the day was so intensely hot,
the thermometer standing at 98 in the shade, that the
best shelter we could find was a very inefficient pro-
tection from the burning suiT; whilst the air, as it swept
over the surface of the heated hillocks of white sand,
blew upon us as from an oven. We were almost
overcome, till, having found a suitable spot, plunging
head first into the river, I enjoyed a most blissful ablu-
16 CHAPTER I.
tion, and felt the refreshment throughout the remainder
of the day. Brother Tindall and his son, for safety,
bathed in a shallow pool adjacent to the river.
December 3rd. Our first Sabbath in the wilderness.
A more than ordinary a Sabbatic stillness seemed to
pervade nature. The sun shone in cloudless splendour ;
only gentle airs were stirring, and, though far from the
sanctuary and the crowd of them that keep "holy day,"
everything seemed to invite to devotion. After break-
fast all our party were assembled, and the service
commenced in God's own grand temple, the ample
sward of the desert spread out on every side ; the sun in
all his splendour peered down upon us through the
ethereal dome above, and while in simplicity and godly
sincerity we worshipped, with new feelings and in a
fresh sense, we could cry, u How amiable are Thy
tabernacles, Lord of Hosts ! " or as it was in the
Dutch version we were using, " How charming are Thy
dwellings," c., a term that expressed with wonderful
appropriateness the feelings with which we engaged in
Divine worship in the temple of nature, and which in-
vested our hymns of praise, our prayers, our preaching,
with a new and marvellous charm of its own. Later in
the day a second service was held, and there was
something peculiarly spiritual in them both. They
proved to be times of refreshing from the presence
of the Lord. During the interval of worship suitable
reading and conversation were enjoyed, and thus agree-
ably and profitably filled up the hours of the Sabbath.
In the evening, just when the sun had dipped below the
horizon, the shrill yell of a jackal fell upon our ear.
It was the first sound of any beast of the wilderness we
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 17
had heard, and though an insignificant animal, so sharp
and shrill Avas the sound as to produce, for the moment,
a startling effect upon the nerves. Though man has
nothing to fear from the jackal, yet it has seemed to me
that the yell of the South African jackal has a more
thrilling effect upon the nerves than that of almost any
other beast of the desert. There is a shrill and horrible
twang in his cry that would be positively alarming to
one unacquainted with the animal. Our sheep and
goats started and ran near to the waggon for society
and safety. This was Klip Kraal, a grass plat sur-
rounded by a circle of trees, and a prettier place than
was often to be met with.
On the next day we passed the Picket Berg, and
called at the Boer's living at the road side, to deliver the
" compliments " of the Rev. B. Shaw, who passed on his
first journey to Little Namaqualand twenty-seven years
previously ; but the person occupying the house had no
knowledge of our veteran missionary. His message,
however, served as an introduction, and we were veiy
kindly welcomed. It was merely a call in transitu, but
several important questions were put in Dutch. " Who
are you, pray, if I may ask? " " Where have you come
from?" "Where are you going?" "Are you
married ? " And when I replied in the affirmative, it
appeared to give great satisfaction. But when, in
reply to the next question, " Has your wife come from
England?" I was able to assure him that she had:
" What, over the great sea?" said he. And when I
answered "Yes" to that question, he seemed quite
filled with admiration at the courage of any lady who
should venture to accompany her husband across the
c
18 CHAPTER I.
mighty ocean ; for the present race of Boers, who have
all been born in the country, have quite a dread of the
sea. The reason of his gratification at the fact that my
wife had come with me from England was not difficult
to divine. One or two missionaries, not of our Society,
had, no doubt from philanthropic and benevolent motives,
married native women. Such compacts, however, have
seldom turned out well : generally speaking, they have
injured the influence of the missionary with the people
amongst whom he has resided. Instead of raising his
partner to his own level, the natives generally supposed
that he had lowered himself to theirs. Now although
the loss of influence to a missionary by such a marriage
would be matter of very little regret to Boers generally,
one thing is certain, they and their families are strongly
averse to such relationships ; for whilst natives look upon
a European missionary who has married one of their own
people as having become one of themselves, the Boers
regard the act as an implied acknowledgment that no
great distance exists between the native and European,
an idea that very much shocks the Boer's sense of
propriety, and one that he is very anxious to keep
from the view of the native, whom he too often
haughtily regards as a menial only destined to do the
meanest offices at his bidding. Hence the delight
of our new friends at hearing that my good wife
had accompanied me from England ; whilst their
admiration rose to its highest point when they thought
of her courage in having crossed " over the great
sea-water " to a foreign land. "\Ve still found in
connection with this Boer's residence " beautiful gar-
dens, orange groves, and cornfields, with an abundant
THEOUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 19
supply of water," as when the venerable Barnabas
Shaw passed so many years before. Upwards of a
hundred and twenty families lie scattered about the
neighbourhood, chiefly behind the mountain, who raise
and ship a considerable quantity of grain for Cape Town
through St. Helena Bay. Here let me remark, that,
generally speaking, we found the Boers fairly hospitable
as a race, especially if cleverly managed ; but the fol-
lowing description, though taken from a standard work,
is so overstrained, that I never saw anything approaching
to it : "A stranger has only to open the door, shake
hands with the master, Ids.s the mistress ! seat himself,
and he is then completely at home."
"Wednesday, December 6th. This morning we tra-
velled through very deep, loose sand, with large blocks
of stone ever and anon occurring in its midst. These
coming unexpectedly in contact with the waggon wheel
made it necessary to sit with caution, lest our heads
should be brought into unpleasant collision with the
tent frame of our waggon ; but what we feared even
more than that was lest the pole of our waggon should
be snapped off by the frequent and violent jerks it
received. Before 8 a.m. we reached a place called
Het Kruis. Here on a small grassy flat in the centre of
a narrow winding valley, bounded on three sides by
sandhills covered with low bushes, we outspanned till
the afternoon. At one extremity of this valley rose a
high and rugged mountain, black and bare, and not far
from its base was the residence of a Boer. The valley,
with adjoining corn and pasture lands, constituted his
farm ; but though he had horses, sheep, goats, oxen,
and poultry in considerable numbers, his residence
c 2
20 CHAPTER I.
certainly cut a very sorry figure. An air of discomfort
was everywhere apparent. During the course of the
day we visited the Boer, conversed, read from the
Scriptures, and prayed with the family; and as they have
very seldom opportunities of this kind, all appeared to be
highly acceptable. Being unable to resume our journey
that evening, owing to some repairs to Mr. Tindall's
waggon not being completed, whilst all of us were
taking a short walk in the dusk of the evening, the first
incident of an exciting kind occurred. A night-adder
was, like ourselves, taking an airing, and whilst to us it
proved dangerous, to him it proved fatal. AVe only
just perceived its serpentine motion in time to avoid
treading upon it, when we instinctively sprang back
and escaped a bite. In another minute the reptile was
despatched with our walking-sticks.
On Saturday morning we arrived at the Uitkomsf.
This has for many years been a place of rest and re-
freshment for missionaries of all denominations. Mr.
Van Zyl has proved their steadfast friend for forty
years past, in consequence of which he has often exposed
himself to the derision of some of his neighbours, who
call his farm, " een Zendeling^s plaats" a mission station.
He was now an old man, and very ill, but his good wife
came to the waggons, and welcomed us with a mother's
affection. The old lady seemed much struck at the
fresh and youthful appearance of myself and my wife.
I was " so handsome a young gentleman " that she could
not think I was married ! " The mistress also was so
young and handsome " that she supposed she could
only be sixteen or seventeen! ! Here we remained, at
the pressing request of our kind host and hostess, for
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 21
several days, daring which time our whole party of ten
persons were most hospitably entertained free of ex-
pense. On the Sabbath we held services in their house ;
and daily, during our stay, we enjoyed reading, singing,
and prayer in the family, so that our visit proved not
only a rest and refreshment to the body, but to ourselves
at least, and we trust to them also, a renewal of spiritual
strength. On the day previous to our departure, our
waggons were replenished with an ample supply of all
the good things the benevolent hearts of our friends
could conceive of. Raisins, peaches, apricots, figs,
lemons, oranges, a number of sweet cakes, and about
thirty large loaves of both fine and coarse bread for us
and our men, were supplied. In addition to which, a
fat slaughter sheep, two milch goats, four live fowls, and
four pigeons were presented to us ; and for all this
array of provisions, nothing in the shape of payment
would be received ; though any little present we had it
in our power to bestow as an affectionate remembrance
was graciously accepted and prized. Not the least
valuable act of kindness on the part of Mr. Van Zyl was
the promise to assist us up the long sandy steep that
occurs on leaving his house, with a team of his own
fresh and well-rested oxen. And as we were to start at
two or three o'clock next morning, the oxen were all
secured in the kraal over night ; and after we had
bidden adieu to our kind and bounteous friends, we
retired to our waggons, thnt at the appointed hour we
might resume our journey at the break of day.
In a letter from Mrs. R. to her sister, written from
this place, she says : "I have been very agreeably dis-
appointed in regard to this African waggon-travelling.
22 CHAPTER I.
I thought it would be insupportably tedious and weari-
some to jog on scarcely three miles an hour for weeks
together after the expeditious travelling we are used to
in England. But. I find it anything but tedious. The
scenery is so constantly changing, and alternately so
grand, so beautiful, so wildly romantic, and so terribly
sublime, that it keeps the interest constantly excited.
We cannot in general see long before us, nor far
behind us ; for, through almost the whole country which
we have as yet traversed, mountain after mountain
rises all around so as quickly to hide the road we have
passed, and to conceal what is to come. The land in
general is indeed a chaos of mountains and valleys of
every variety of form, and thrown together in every
variety of combination, so that in looking around and
before you, it seems impossible to me to conceive how
anybody can find their way to a place through such a
chaos of peaked and rugged hills."
About midnightwe arrived aiHeereLogement, u Gentle-
man's Lodging," extremely fatigued with long journey-
ing through deep and heavy sand, and with the intense
heat of the day. But though the day had been so hot,
we were now quite nipped by the strong keen wind that
was blowing. Having arrived so late, and men and
oxen being jaded, we took no morning stage on
Thursday the 14th, but after breakfast went on an
expedition to the famous a Logement," or cavernous
chamber, from which the place takes its name. After
ascending a steep hill-side, thickly overgrown with bushes,
at about one hundred feet above the plain, we came to a
large cavern in the side of the rock, forming a tolerably
spacious apartment. Through a fissure in the rocky
THKOUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 23
roof a Avild fig-tree sends its spreading branches, giving
a pretty effect. On one side of this cavern, full open
to the daylight, the names of many travellers and mis-
sionaries were cut. And here I .spent some time
chiselling my name into the hard face of the rock, a
process Avhich I found required much patience, as the
rock was of granite, and the only instruments available
were a hammer and an old blunt screwdriver. I suc-
ceeded quite to my own satisfaction, considering the
sorry tools at my command, and left my name, as
Brother Tindall said, " in superfine London type ! "
On Saturday the 16th, we reached Ebenezer, a Ger-
man mission station, situated very near the banks of the
Elephant River. The Rev. Messrs. Hahn and Lutz
received us all most cordially into their house, where
we remained till the following Monday. The station
had a regular row of small houses of lath and plaster,
as well as a number of huts, which are very slight
structures, consisting of native reed-mats, thrown ovel*
and fastened to a framework of bamboos, and of bee-
hive shape. The chapel, a new structure, is a really
beautiful building, especially considering the difficulty
of raising such a structure in such a part. The corn-
lands connected with the station are somewhat exten-
sive, and in years when the country is flooded by the
overflow of the river, so rich a deposit is left that, we
were informed, in some instances they had reaped a
hundredfold. It very often happens, however, that
one such year is more than counterbalanced by several
years of extreme drought. An excellent windmill has
been raised on the station by Mr. Hahn, who united
the duties of missionary and artisan. Early on the
24 CHAPTER I.
Sabbath morning a prayer-meeting was held, public
service at ten, and again at three. In the afternoon
service Brother Tindall and myself took part, and here
my first really extempore address in the Dutch language
was delivered. In vain I pleaded that I was merely a
novice in the language, only six months having elapsed
since I acquired the sounds of the Dutch alphabet.
Yielding, however, to importunity, I made the attempt,
and spoke with facility for upwards of ten minutes to
the surprise of my travelling companions, and to my
own satisfaction. One thing struck me, viz., the general
wakefulness of the congregation, notwithstanding the
extreme heat of the weather, and the drowsy period of
the day. The fact is, every one in this part of the world
deems it quite necessary to have a good siesta after the
midday meal. We were not a little amused ourselves,
after dinner, to be led into our respective apartments
for the express purpose of courting " tired nature's
sweet restorer, balmy sleep ; " and to facilitate its
approach, as soon as we had entered, the shutters from
without were carefully closed to exclude the heat and
splendour of the day. Yery soon the whole household
were in a deep sleep. After a good rest of more than
an hour, the shutters were thrown open, a rap at the
door was heard, a cup of hot coffee was served to each,
a slight ablution in cooling water followed, the church-
bell was rung, and we were all refreshed and ready for
a wakeful and devout engagement in the services of the
sanctuary. That the process should form part of an
established system ' amused us; but, judging from the
comfortable effects produced, we could not but think it
a most rational custom, especially in the hot days of
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 25
a South African summer. All hail to this part at least
of German philosophy !
Monday, December 18th. We were now entering
upon a hot and, to a great extent, waterless country
called the Karroo. AVe had just passed through the
Zandveld, or sand country; now we were to traverse
one where the surface was hard, and rocky, and barren.
All the vessels we could devote to the purpose were
therefore replenished with the soft and sweet waters of
the Elephant River, every drop of which would have to
be used with care, as almost all the water we should
find for some time to come would be so salt as to be
nearly unfit for use. The Rev. Barnabas Shaw records
that some years before, the Rev. Mr. Schmelen, whilst
crossing the Karroo, owing to heat, thirst, and fatigue,
lost forty-five of his oxen, and in consequence was
detained several weeks in this dreadful wilderness.
Amidst the prayers and good wishes of our dear friends,
and in firm reliance on the God of Israel, we entered
upon this terrible part of the wilderness, believing that
He would neither fail nor forsake us.
The following days were dreadfully hot, so that we
were obliged to travel almost the whole of the nights,
and rest by day.
On Tuesday, 19th, the thermometer stood at 112 in
the shade. The most effectual shade we could find was
underneath our waggons, where on a springbok skin
spread out for a carpet I Ivas prosecuting my studies
in the Dutch language, and young Henry Tindall with
notes and flute taking his first lessons in music, though
the tar, melted by the heat, was dropping constantly
from the wheels and other parts of the waggon where
26 CHAPTER I.
any had been applied. We were most effectually
sheltered from the direct rays of the sun in this position,
but the reflection from the sand made it intolerable ;
the atmosphere seemed like particles of fire ; our poor
fowls lay helplessly upon the sand in the shade, with
outspread wings and open beaks, as if just on the point
of expiring.
Thursday, December 21st, Midsummer-day of the
southern hemisphere. This morning we reached Zwaart
Doom Rivier, " Blackthorn River." Everywhere the
sand was loose and barren, save here and there a soli-
tary shrub. The river, so called, was a mere line of
glowing sand over which the streams of periodical
rains had flowed some time, but all had long since dis-
appeared from the surface. There were some fine large
blackthorn trees in the neighbourhood, which looked
as if they might be umbrageous in favourable seasons,
and so tastefully arranged in some places, that, but for
the waste and arid appearance of all nature, one might
have supposed it the site of some old park ; but in
general these, and others that lined the sides of the
river, were so dry and withered and void of foliage, as
to afford only the semblance of shade against the sun.
Our men dug in various parts of the river-bedj but no
water could be found, except what was nauseously salt.
Yet, our supply of fresh water from the Elephant River
being exhausted, we were compelled to use it. Our tea
and coffee were so impregnated with the mineral that
morning and evening we were literally taking saline
draughts ! Sick headache, feverish symptoms, and
indescribable languor, were some of the distressing
effects of the intense heat and salt water. The body
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. '27
seemed loaded at every point, and instead of the blood
coursing lightly and actively through the veins, it
seemed as if every vein was weighted with lead, render-
ing the slightest exertion intolerable. Yet at this
miserable place, owing to a domestic mishap, we were
detained nearly two days, and our poor oxen suffered
extremely. Though without water for nearly three
days, and almost dying of thirst, many refused the water
obtained by digging in the bed of the river. At length
we found a place at some distance where better water
was obtained ; of this they drank scantily ; but one of
them, feebler than the rest, after drinking, lay down in
the water to die. Had he died there, the best water in
the place would have been corrupted, and become quite
unusable by any other travellers who might happen to
pass that way ; and as Mr. Haddy and party were to
follow us in a week, we were all the more concerned to
preserve it in a usable state at least for his oxen. The
only plan we could adopt was to attach the whole team
to the horns of the poor animal, and draw him up the
slope leading down to the water, that he might die
there. We left him in charge of the people who were
living near, but, as we heard, he died soon after our
departure.
On Friday evening, when the heat had somewhat
abated, we resumed our journey, all being very languid
and poorly, Mrs. R. especially so, on whose account
we proceeded very slowly^ and only a short distance
that evening. Next morning we took only a short
stage, and rested again. At noon, being in the vicinity
of a periodical stream, we obtained water of a little
better quality, but still quite brackish. Having no
28 CHAPTER I.
suitable food, I went out amongst the trees with mv
/ o /
fowling-piece, and brought home two turtle-doves for
my invalid wife, this being the only " game " I found
in the neighbourhood.
On Saturday evening, 23rd, we reached one of the
prettiest outspan places we had yet met with, and
though it was not comparable to Elim, with its " twelve
wells of water, and threescore and ten palm-trees," it
was a good encampment. Our waggons were drawn
up, side by side, on a tolerably good grass plat, sur-
rounded at nearly every point by shrubs and lofty trees,
whilst the water was a slight improvement on that of
the preceding day. As the water improved wo gradually
lost our distressing languors, and regained our wonted
spirits, and, feeling more comfortable in health, and
having a pleasant resting-place, we enjoyed a very sweet
Sabbath in our sylvan retreat.
At the earliest dawn on Monday, the 25th, our first
Christmas in South Africa, and our first Christmas at
Midsummer, we commenced the ascent of the Khamies
Berg range of mountains, at the summit of one of
which our mission station, called Lily Fountain, stands,
at an elevation of 5,000 feet above the level of the sea.
The roads now began to be terrific, and it seemed a
constant miracle that our waggons were preserved from
turning over. The exertion of dragging them up a very
long and rugged height, heavily laden as they were,
was tremendous : and though the oxen were rested
every minute or two, I feared they would not be able
to get them to the top. The patient creatures stood
remarkably well as long as the morning air kept
tolerably cool, but as soon as the sun arose, with burn-
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 20
ing heat, they grew faint and flagged, and some lay
down and refused to rise. After a tedious delay, some
of our loose oxen were yoked in the place of those that
had failed, and by dint of great effort we at last attained
the summit, faint and exhausted by the heat, and early
morning toil. It was a cheerless Christmas, and one
of ranch physical discomfort, owing to fatigue and heat,
and want of shade and water. We thought of home
with its frost and snow, bright fires, snug apartments,
family meetings, and the multitudes who went to the
house of God with the voice of joy and singing. But
there were no regrets. We had counted the cost, made
a voluntary sacrifice for Christ, and were content. At
our family worship appropriate portions of Scripture
were read and hymns sung that day. In the evening
we went another stage, and were struck with the sub-
limely rugged character of the mountain scenery, as
our waggons travelled slowly along the winding, but
steadily ascending path, crossing the points where base
locked into base. The wild grandeur of the scene
appeared under an ever-changing aspect ; and when
the night darkened in upon us, and the stars glistened
in the vault above, the gigantic forms of these rugged
mountains, wrapped in the nocturnal gloom, inspired
the soul with profound and overwhelming awe. We
thought of Sinai with its thunders and lightnings and
the " voice of the trumpet exceeding loud, so that the
people that were in the camp trembled ; " and of all the
terribly sublime associations which its name recalls ;
and we could not help thinking that the actual Sinaitic
range does not probably present scenes of more savage
grandeur than do some of these Khamies Bergen.
30 CHAPTER I.
Filled with awe as I gazed, I could not but feel that,
though it was a small thing for me to traverse this
gloom and grandeur, knowing as I did that others had
gone before, and that a mission station was flourishing
far in advance of my present position, the man who first
threaded his way through these stupendous highlands,
and established that Gospel Zion " on the top of the
mountains," must have been a man of extraordinary
enterprise, and the wife of that man must have been
inspired by a courage higher than that of ordinary
women. Both were nerved not only with natural
courage, but by that which religion imparts ; a courage
roused by zeal for Christ to a pitch adequate to all
sights however awful, and to all occasions however
O '
trying. Such were Barnabas Shaw, and Jane, his wife.
December 26th. Still very bad road, steep and
rugged. In the afternoon, as we travelled over a more
level part than any we had recently had, two persons were
seen in the distance on horseback, travelling towards
us at a swift pace. One was Mr. Jackson, the mis-
sionary at Lily Fountain, the other Mr. Macleod, who
had recently arrived there from Cape Town, and who
was to accompany us to the Nisbett Bath mission
station in the capacity of schoolmaster, and assistant in
the work of the mission. It was a joyful though brief
interview, for soon both bade us farewell, and left us at
nearly race pace, to inform Mrs. Jackson that we should
be at the station that night. As we drew near, the
corn lands, in all their richness, were spread out to our
view, some belonging to the natives, others for the use
of the mission, and all nearly ready for the harvest.
At dusk, we released our own jaded oxen from the
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 31
yoke, and had two powerful teams belonging to the
station to take us up the final and steep ascent. Just
before reaching the mission house we travelled along
the centre of a fine valley on the mountain heights,
nearly a mile in length, and of considerable breadth,
covered with waving corn, a sight that would have
been beauteous to behold, had not the day been too far
spent. What a change in the face of the country, and
in the habits of the people, since the venerable Barnabas
Shaw first asked leave of the old chief Haaimaap ll to
cultivate corn for his own use!" These Namaqua
valleys, covered over with corn, and, in the poetry of
Scripture, "shouting" for joy and "singing" for
gladness, are literally the fruits of Gospel labour.
There is now " seed for the sower, and bread for the
eater."
We had now passed over nearly four hundred miles,
including the windings of the road, and were all un-
speakably thankful that though we had suffered much
from heat, salt water, and fatigue, no serious accident
had occurred to our waggons, or to ourselves, though
it is no unusual thing for even the most practised
drivers to overturn their waggons in these rugged
oo oo
mountain regions.
The mission house is a substantial stone building.
O
In front is a grass plat, and in the centre of that a stone
pillar surmounted by an excellent dial, though, as it is
not exactly adapted to the latitude of the place, it is
only at the hour of noon that it shows true solar time,
which, when the equation of time is applied, gives the
time by clock. An orchard and kitchen garden are also
connected with the mission premises, and an ample
32 CHAPTER I.
supply of good water is at hand. The chapel, of stone,
is a very creditable structure, and accommodates about
four hundred hearers. It stands on higher ground
than the mission house, and at a distance of three
hundred yards from it. Wandering one day to a place
called the poort, or " gate," an opening in the mountain
top towards the west, a scene of sublime grandeur
presented itself. From an elevation of five thousand
feet above the sea, a perfect ocean of mountain peaks,
mostly lower than the position from which we viewed
them, stretched away to an immense extent, and beyond
the limits of the land lay the dark blue waters of the
South Atlantic, at a distance of about forty miles from
the spot. Another day I stood upon the same spot
once more, to see the same grand sight, but, to my
amazement, the waters of the ocean had disappeared,
and instead of them a white appearance, perfectly level,
and apparently solid as marble, was visible. I stood
bewildered for some time, as if I had seen a vision, and
could in no way account for the mystery ; but three or
four hours afterwards a thin white mist came curling
and creeping up from crag to crag and peak to peak,
till the whole top of the mountain was enveloped in a
haze, and everything loaded with moisture. Never
having lived above the clouds before, this was to me a
new phenomenon, though, as I afterwards found, familiar
to the people. The seeming!}' solid white mass reflect-
ing so brightly the light of the sun that fell on it from
above was simply this mist covering the face of the
ocean, and gathering increased density as it rose into a
colder atmosphere, till the whole mountain range was
encompassed with it as with a garment.
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 33
As we could now muster four mission families,
including that of Mr. Macleod, we had an occasional
service in English, which, being the most recent comer,
it fell to my lot to conduct. On the Sabbath, in addition
to the sermons in Dutch, delivered by Messrs. Jackson
and Tindall, the usual watch-night services were com-
menced at ten p.m., by a sermon in English by myself,
followed by addresses in Dutch. The building was
well filled by a deeply attentive and intelligent-looking
audience, when all felt the solemnity and impressive-
ness of the occasion. To us it was particularly interest-
ing that, in a sanctuary on one of the highest summits
of the Khamies range, five thousand feet above the sea,
such scenes should be transpiring at the midnight hour.
We could not help thinking of Isaiah ii. 2 : " And it
shall come to pass in the last days, that the mountain
of the Lord's house shall be established in the top of
the mountains, and shall be exalted above the hills ;
and all nations shall flow unto it." And in the agri-
cultural tastes awakened since the Gospel came to this
land, we saw a partial fulfilment of the fourth verse, and
the promise of its full and universal accomplishment
amongst all nations : " They shall beat their swords
into ploughshares, and their spears into pruninghooks :
nation shall not lift up sword against nation, neither
shall they learn war any more."
On Tuesday, January 2nd, 1844, having spent a
happy week with Mr. Jackson, and having had our
waggons replenished with good things, we left Avith
good heart and cheerful spirits, though in certain
prospect of much to try us, the portion of country over
which we had now to travel being hotter and more
D
34 CHAPTER I.
destitute of water than any through which we had yet
had to pass ; almost literally, " a dry and thirsty land,
where no water is." Our party, too, was increased by
the addition of Mr. and Mrs. Macleod, and the sister of
the latter, so that our waggons amounted to three. It
was very pleasant to have additional company, but as
each waggon brings with it an additional team of oxen,
and an increase of men, and of human wants, we
regarded the addition, on the whole, as very serious in
traversing a desert where scarcely sufficient water can
be found for the sustenance of a few. At the best
season, it is an advantage to travel this part of the
country with a small party ; for whole parties of natives
have nearly perished for thirst when passing between
our two stations, Khamies Berg and Nisbett Bath, at
this dreadful period of the year. To us there was no
alternative. It was impossible to wait till the proper
season for travelling ; so, with a list of places where
water might possibly be found, and the distance between
each carefully marked down, we ventured forth, putting
our whole trust in the protection of the Almighty.
At dinner, the first day, our fare was varied by the
addition of a novel dish, viz., a peacock, many of which
are to be shot in the neighbourhood. They are not to
be compared to our English peacocks for beauty, the
plumage being of a light brown, speckled. Though
the flesh was good, we should hardly have esteemed it
one of the highest luxuries, notwithstanding the opinions
of Roman emperors and modern epicures.
In descending the mountains to the plains that lay
between us and the Orange River, the roads were fear-
fully steep, and obstructed by huge rocks and stones,
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 35
so that if our waggons had not been very strongly-
built, and very carefully driven, they must have been
riven to pieces. My wife, in writing home, says of
this part of the journey : " The road we had to pass
the two first days is the most terrific among all the ter-
rific roads of this wild country." On the Wednesday
afternoon Ave prepared to encounter the notorious
Pieter's Kloof, a pass through the mountains, unrivalled
for the confusion and the chaotic appearance of its
rocky masses. One would imagine that in ages imme-
morially remote, immense upheaving forces had driven
up the granitic crusts of our globe, tumbling over all the
superincumbent strata into the wildest disorder, and
burying whatever soil there was beneath the inverted
strata in the mighty overthrow. The whole scene on
every side was calculated to produce an abiding feeling
of awe ; the grey, aged, and naked appearance of the
rocks made one feel as if a sight of chaos was vouch-
safed, before God spake order out of confusion, and
made our earth a fit habitation for man. It looked a.
fit abode for tigers, and every raving beast of prey.
Soil was scarcely to be seen anywhere, so strewn was
every part with loose rock and stone. Vegetation
scarcely existed, save here and there a solitary shrub, a
euphorbia, a sunburnt aloe, and very occasionally a
koker loom, or quiver-tree, of light spongy wood, out of
which the Bushmen make quivers for their arrows.
Of all the spots on earth ,-ihis must at least take rank
as one of the most savagely naked, wild, and desolate,
anywhere to be found. In this dreary spot we were
detained four days and nights, through the breaking
down of Mr. Macleod's waggon in passing over the
D 2
36 CHAPTER I.
rugged road. A messenger was instantly despatched
on horseback to Mr. Jackson (who -was a good smith),
and with very acceptable promptness he soon appeared
on horseback, accompanied by one or two men skilled
in the art of Vulcan, with tools and iron to repair the
breach. We all felt much indebted to Mr. Jackson,
who with his men worked unceasingly most of the
night. After putting us in travelling trim, he returned
to his station, and we might have resumed our journey
had it not been Saturday ; but as the waggon had to be
repacked, and we could reach no water until very late,
Ave resolved to spend the Sabbath in the kloof, though
it was intensely hot, and the water nauseously saline.
During the day we were visited by a few people who
had got to know of our accident, and with these we
held two services, endeavouring to make the best use of
the circumstances in which we were placed.
From this time the weather was insufferably hot, and
water very scarce and brackish, whilst we had sand and
dust in abundance. Sometimes we were almost stifled
in our waggons by the clouds of fine impalpable dust in
which we were enveloped, and which found its way
through every crevice. Even our best closed boxes were
no proof against this most insinuating pest.
On Saturday, January 13th, we reached Quick
Fountain, where we halted for the Sabbath. We
enjoyed the usual Sabbath services with our people, not-
withstanding the melting process through which we
were passing ; and in the afternoon my curiosity to
behold a veritable Bushman in a state of wild nature
was satisfied. He was short, lean, nude, save a narrow
strip of leather round the waist, which served the pur-
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 37
pose of a hunger belt. Attached to this was a small
skin pouch, a receptacle for any little valuables he
might pick up in the wilderness. His only weapons
were a bow and poisoned arrows. His sole companion
a dog, gaunt and meagre as himself. In his hand he
held something burnt black as a cinder, which, on
examining more closely, we found to be the head of a
jackal. He had captured and made a meal off the
animal, and this head, thrown into the embers and
roasted black, was a delicious morsel reserved for the
next meal. He had, however, something else in pros-
pect, for he had shot a poisoned arrow into an ostrich,
and was deliberately following on the track of the
wounded bird. He was in no hurry, and though he
had lost sight of his game, he knew it would only run a
certain distance, and then, from the smart of the wound,
aggravated by the poison, lie down and perhaps die. His
practised eye would trace its course unfailingly over the
country, and he knew that by-and-by he would secure
the prize. He asked for tobacco, but we had none to
give, and after awhile he went his solitary way into
the depths of the wilderness, a real child of nature. At
this place we lost two of our oxen, one of which,
on going down to the water, drank, and lay down
to die.
On the Monday, January 15th, whilst our waggons
were standing outspanned in the open plain, several
Bushmen came up, bringing with them a donkey that had
strayed from the party of a trader (Mr. Morris, whom we
knew) who had gone to the northward several weeks
before. During this time they had taken charge of the
animal, and now, hearing that we should meet with Mr.
38 CHAPTER I.
Morris on arriving at our station, honestly delivered up
their charge. This act might put to the blush the conduct
of many living in civilised lands and bearing the name
of Christians ; as, if they had chosen to keep the animal
and use him for their own purposes, no means existed
for proving their dishonesty, or bringing them to
punishment. We did not fail to remunerate them with
what proved to them some very valuable presents.
Unfortunately, however, the day after, the ass escaped
from the Damara lad who had charge of him, and
made his way back in the direction of his old friends.
After a day of intense heat and exhausting travel,
during which our oxen had no water, we reached
Grezelschap Plat Klip, where water is generally to be
found, and where we felt almost sure of meeting with
some. Before they were unloosed from the yoke, the
poor oxen, recognising the place where they had
often quenched their thirst before, were bellowing
piteously for water, and as soon as they were set at
liberty, they made for the spot where they had often
found it, but where none was to be found now. It was
distressing to witness the disappointment of the poor
animals ; and their loud bellowings, which I had never
before heard during the whole journey, produced a
more painful effect on my feelings than anything had
done for a long time. No alternative remained but to
get a hasty tea, and push on again in the cool of the
night ; and whilst we partook of the refreshing draught,
we were glad to see our poor oxen, unable to eat for
thirst, lying down around us, and gathering a little
strength for the great effort they were soon to make.
From the eminence on which our waggons were drawn
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 39
up, an immense plain, covered with a long tufted grass
withered almost to whiteness, spread out in ample
extent, bounded on the north by the Gariepine Walls, all
empurpled in the light of the setting sun. These moun-
tains, of massive grandeur, exhibited a magnificent
spectacle ; and to us the view was not only magnificent,
but delightful, because we knew that along the base of
those mountains the waters of the Orange River were
flowing to the ocean. To reach those mountains before
the heat of the next day was an absolute necessity, and
the consummation we devoutly wished ; but whether our
oxen, faint with thirst and with the labour of the day,
would be able to draw our waggons over that ample
plain of loose, sandy soil, a work of ten hours of hard
straining in the yoke, was very doubtful. It seemed
much more likely that they would fail utterly by the
way, and leave us at a standstill in the middle of the
fiery plain all next day. But we were compelled to
try, and our hope lay in the coolness of the night air,
and the good providence of our God. As soon, there-
fore, as tea was over, everything was " made fast,"
and the oxen yoked in. In a few minutes we had
descended from the edge of the plateau where we had
rested, and were in the plain. Providentially a re-
freshing air, cool by comparison with the glow of the
day, was stirring over the plain, so that, to our delight,
the poor oxen pulled with more than ordinary vigour.
The monotonous, low, grinding sound of the wheels, as
they turned on the sandy soil, soothed us into an
hour or two's refreshing sleep, in spite of the resolution
to keep watch during the night, so that midnight
arrived almost unawares. We now spanned out in the
40 CHAPTER I.
midst of the plain for two hours, for the sake of
resting the men and oxen. A fire soon blazed cheerily,
and the supper of our waggoners was boiling in the pot ;
when suddenly a mishap occurred that might have
proved very serious. The long grass near the men's
fire, so dry as to be almost always near the point of
ignition, was seized by the flame, which, wafted by
the night breeze, spread rapidly towards the waggons,
all of which were drawn up side by side, very near to
each other. In our waggon was a quantity of gun-
powder, an annual present from the Colonial Govern-
ment to the chief of our station ; so that, in case of an
explosion, our waggons must have been shivered to pieces,
whilst some of our party must almost certainly have been
struck and killed by the flying fragments. All felt the
danger, and ran instantly to the waggons to make loose
the spades. These were energetically plied in throwing
the loose soil on the approaching flames, and at the
same time beating down the burning grass ; and just
when the grass growing under the wheels of my
waggon took fire, we conquered the flames, and our
peril was past. The real magnitude of the danger was
seen more distinctly when it was past than at the time ;
and the gratitude for our deliverance was greater when
we had time to consider all it might have involved, than
immediately after the excitement of the occurrence.
At about half-past two a.m. our journey was re-
sumed, and after tediously travelling for several hours,
on a morning of suffocating heat, the breeze having
dropped, we found ourselves winding through the bases
of some of the outer and solitary mountains, not very
far from the river. At length the foliage of the trees
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 41
growing close to the banks of the stream came in
sight, when Mr. Tindall, his son, myself, and Mr.
Macleod, hurried down before the waggons, all per-
fectly bathed in perspiration, anxious to catch the first
sight of the river, and hoping to find it sufficiently low for
us to cross without delay. To our great disappointment
it was now full, and presented a noble stream of five
hundred yards in breadth, and twenty or thirty feet
in depth, with a very rapid current towards the South
Atlantic. We were obliged to make up our minds to
remain at least a week at the river, even if we
should succeed in speedily obtaining the aid of native
swimmers. Fortunately, some living in the vicinity of the
river soon appeared, and offered their services at a
reasonable rate. Away they went with axe in hand to
seek among the trees lining the river banks suitable
poles for the construction of a raft ; and as our waggon
was first to be put across, whilst we were busy unloading
it and placing its contents together on the sand, Brother
Tindall and Co. brought a large supply of branches
of the willow and other trees, and formed a booth
around and above our luggage, and this sylvan retreat
formed the abode of myself and my wife for nearly
the whole of the week following, the other brethren
occupying their waggons until obliged to adopt a
similar habitation to our own.
The swimmers having collected a good quantity of
wood, and long strips of the-bark of the mimosa tree
for lashing the poles together, the making of the raft
commenced. A number of poles of willow wood,
mostly young trees that had been used for a similar
purpose before, and which they had found thrown up
42 CHAPTER I.
on the bank, were placed side by side, and then bound
firmly to cross pieces near each end with strips of
bark, which, when swollen by immersion in the water,
holds more firmly than rope, without any danger of
slipping. Several layers of poles were placed on these,
and all firmly bound together, till a raft sufficiently
buoyant was formed. It was about ten feet^in length
by five or six in breadth. But attached to the front
were two light poles, extending six or eight feet beyond
the body of the raft, and looking very much like a pair
of shafts. When it was sufficiently weighted, resolving
to accompany them, I surmounted the whole myself.
The best swimmers now grasped the projecting shafts
with one hand, the others ranged along each side did
the same, and the word of command being given,
away we launched into the deep, the swimmers grasp-
ing the float with one hand, and swimming with
the other and their feet, thus propelling the clumsy
and waterlogged craft as rapidly as their strength would
allow ; but so heavy was the labour, that they puffed
and blowed, shouted and groaned, quite enough to
make even a strong man nervous ; and before reaching
mid-stream some began to rest on the float, making it
tip to an alarming depth, first on one side and then on the
other. At one time they all ceased swimming together,
resting for a few moments on the float as they continued
immersed in the water, which so nearly submerged the
whole concern, that, though on the top of a box, I
stood nearly knee deep in water. Thinking my friends
on shore would take alarm at our position, I drew out
my pocket-handkerchief, and displayed it to the breeze
by way of conveying the assurance that, notwithstanding
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 43
the apparent peril of my situation, I was not quite
bereft of all presence of mind. After resting a little,
our swimmers struck out afresh, and before long we
gained the northern shore, and I trod the soil of Great
Namaqualand, of which the Ky Gariep, the native
name for the Orange River, is the southern boun-
dary. Owing to the force of the current, we had
drifted half a mile or more down the stream, so that
the point of debarkation was much lower down than
the point from which we had started on the south side.
When the heavy boxes, all of which were saturated
with water, had been conveyed high up the bank, the tedi-
ous process of unbinding the raft and separating it into
its component parts had to be commenced. Each man
then shouldered a pole which he was to bear, or rather
which was to bear him, back to the other side. But a
painful task had first to be performed. As the current
had drifted us so far down the stream, of course in
getting back to our waggons on the opposite side the
force of the current had to be allowed for, and we all
had to go nearly a mile along the north bank before we
could take to the water. This was no trifle ; the day was
intensely hot, this being the very hottest period of the
year, and the neighbourhood of the Orange River one
of the hottest regions of the world. The light, dusty
sand, absolutely destitute of grass or of any vegetation
to bind it together, is so loose, that at every step one
sinks ankle deep, and every particle is like a particle of
fire. Yet our swimmers, fresh from the water, had no
other alternative than to pass through the fiery ordeal.
After standing awhile beneath the scanty shade of a
mimosa, with poles ready shouldered, away they bounded,
44 CHAPTER I.
one after another, light as the antelope, to the next tree,
where they would stand another moment beneath the
imperfect shade, lifting first one foot off the ground,
then the other, as a temporary relief from the burning
heat. In this way, the whole party, nude as Adamites,
reached the place where we were to start for the other
side. How the poor fellows could stand the trial sur-
passed my comprehension, for though I was well clad
in light apparel, suited to the weather, and had stout
English shoes, my feet burned most painfully, and with
the heat generally I felt almost knocked up. Being now
assembled amongst the trees at the water side, the men
prepared their " river horses" for mounting ; i.e., each
man, taking the pole he carried, inserted a peg of wood
in a hole bored for the purpose about three feet from
the upper end ; then, striding across the pole, just as a
little boy rides a walking-stick, and grasping the peg
with his left hand to prevent the pole rolling, he launched
forth, swimming with his right hand and his feet.
Being unused to this mode of swimming, and
not knowing whether I should succeed in managing
such a concern, I resolved to swim in English fashion,
though being already somewhat exhausted I had some
misgivings as to whether my strength would suffice to
cross a stream so broad, with a current so rapid. For
some distance, therefore, I kept near the swimmers on
their " blocks," occasionally taking the peg with my
left hand as a relief, till, finding my strength hold out
much better than I had anticipated, I went away on my
own responsibility, to the admiration of the natives,
who shouted one to another in combined Dutch and
Xamaqua : " Look, look, look at the Englishman ! " I
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 45
suppose it seemed a venture to them, for I never saw a
native swim that stream except with the aid of a log of
willow ; and on reaching the southern shore, I was sur-
prised to feel so little fatigue. Still the native mode,
when acquired, must be a great saving of strength, the
support of the " block " being so great as to enable
the swimmer to rest, without danger, whenever he
grows weary. One of these antliropopotami, with the
support of his block, brought all my clothes, formed
into a bundle, on the top of his head, with my broad-
brimmed Manilla hat surmounting that as naturally as
possible, but presenting a spectacle sufficiently grotesque
to excite the amusement of all the party.
During the absence of the swimmers, our own men,
acting as cooks, were busily engaged in preparing dinner,
as after their exertion they required both food and
rest. Decently attired, they assembled for the meal, of
which they partook heartily, requiring that it should
be supplemented by tea. Then followed a lounge or a
siesta among the sylvan shades of the river, which to
us, impatient as we were to get away, seemed of un-
conscionable length. " Never while away time " was
a maxim with which they had no sympathy ; and
accustomed to the rapid modes of transit adopted in
our own country, we found our patience severely
taxed by the dilatoriness of the natives the very first
day. The conveyance of three loaded rafts a day to
the other side of the river~~seemed to us a very small
amount of work; and as our three waggons, with
their loads, would require twelve such trips, we saw
that four days would be consumed in the transit alone.
I had made a trial of the river, however, and could
46 CHAPTER I.
understand better than those who had not, that the
crossing of such a stream six times a day, which of
course three loads involves, was no trifle, especially
taking into account the loading and unloading, and
travelling a mile up the north bank to return again,
as necessitated by the current. In fact, a little consi-
deration showed that for men not naturally strong and
muscular, and frequently underfed, the tax on flesh
and blood must have been very severe. There was no
prospect of expediting matters if left in native hands,
so the brethren Tindall, Macleod, and myself, resolved
on making a raft of our own. It was to be made in
no time, to be worked with oars, and, in short, we were
going to show the natives science ! A good place for
making and launching this raft was found about three
hundred yards lower down the river, and with adze
and auger my two brethren were soon manfully at
work ; but the exertion of swimming on the previous
day, and the extreme heat, rendered me so languid
and feverish that I could scarcely sit erect to
observe them. Five or six good-sized trees of willow,
a very buoyant wood, were obtained and shaped by the
adze ; these were laid side by side and pegged by
wooden pegs to a cross-piece at each end. Another
layer and cross-piece, pegged as before, seemed suffi-
cient for buoyancy. An upright was then fixed on each
side, hollowed out at the top, as rowlocks for the oar.
This simple affair we imagined was to do wonders.
It was duly christened The Experiment, and launched.
Vu,- were soon on board, Mr. Tindall taking the " bow
oar " on the shore side, and myself the other, whilst
Mr. Macleod stood astern to preserve the balance. Our
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 47
first object was to row our raft up the river side to the
place where our waggons were standing ; but as the
current was very strong against us, we found this hard
work. As we had _ to stand to row, and had no rail
thrown round to serve the purpose of a bulwark, in case
of a slip, we were in danger of going overboard.
Before long an accident occurred. Mr. T., rowing
the bow oar, missed his stroke, and, finding himself
going, instinctively grasped my cravat, and took me
backwards with him into the stream. Fortunately we
were not far from the shore, and fell into water only
breast deep ; and though well drenched, we soon
scrambled on board again ; and the water at this season
generally being of a temperature of ninety degrees, we
suffered nothing, and were only laughed at. We could
not but feel thankful, however, that we had not gone
over on the other side, where the water was out of our
depth. As it was becoming dark, and we were weary,
we moored our barque to a tree for the night, and went
home to sup and slumber, hoping next morning to
complete the task we had left unfinished.
Next morning, refreshed by rest, and strengthened by
a good breakfast, we set to work in high spirits, and got
our raft much better up against the current, till, all
three of us happening to get to one side, our frail vessel
turned bodily over. I was entirely submerged, and
under the raft. Mr. Macleod managed to scramble
upon the inverted concern, -and was stretched full length
where the keel ought to have been ; whilst Mr. Tindall
was holding on, as he said, " where best he could."
We were none of us entirely out of our depth, how-
ever, so that we sustained no injury. But to the
48 CHAPTER I.
non-swimmers these accidents were rather alarming,
and Mr. Macleod, by this last immersion, got his
courage so much cooled, that he resolved to have
nothing more to do with The Experiment, regarding
it as a " dead failure." Mr. Tindall and myself,
reluctant to give up our attempts, thought there would
be no harm in another trial, and as the rowing had
proved a bad speculation, we converted our oars into
poles for pushing our craft up the stream. This
answered pretty well at first, till another mishap
occurred. The moment before I had found the bottom
at a depth of about five feet, but on next dipping the
pole, owing to the unevenness of the bed of the river,
no bottom was to be found, and, overbalancing myself,
in I fell ! I was in fact out of my depth, and, had I
not been able to swim, must almost certainly have
been drowned. A few strokes, however, brought me
to shore, and on turning to look after my companion,
I saw him safely on board the raft, but in a rather
awkward predicament, for, having only one oar, and
being utterly unable to manage the raft alone, the
current had carried him farther out towards mid-stream,
and was rapidly drifting him down towards the sea.
Rather bewildered for the moment as to my best
course of action, and thinking that at least a few words
of consolation might be acceptable, I shouted : " Don't
be alarmed, Brother Tindall, you are sure to come out
someickere I " But our best intentions are sometimes
misunderstood, for Mr. Tindall afterwards told me that
at those words his heart sank within him, thinking it a
proof that I was abandoning him to his fate. Though
I had no suspicion of his discouragement, I swam to his
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 49
aid, met with a very cordial reception on board, and,
after mutual consultation as to the best mode of action,
soon succeeded in nearing the shore ; and then in
disgust we finally abandoned The Experiment, and
resigned ourselves as pacifically as possible to the slow
but sure mode adopted by the natives. Though our
wives were not fully aware of the danger to which we
were exposed, as the thick trees on the river-bank,
which is sixteen or twenty feet above the river, inter-
posed between us and the place where our waggons
were standing, they w r ere very much relieved when our
experiments ceased, and on calm reflection we all saw
reason for much gratitude that no serious accident had
occurred, especially as neither of my brethren was able
to swim. Though our failure did not facilitate our
departure from the river, it was no cause of delay, as
the natives were busily engaged in conveying our things
to the other side all the time, and under our own in-
spection. No doubt they were greatly amused to find
that in their own way they could do better than we.
A boat would have been of immense service, and this
*
we could have managed perfectly; so we resolved,
as soon as we could communicate with Cape Town,
we w r ould make a stir by way of obtaining such a
convenience a point that was gained on my next visit.
Not only were we anxious to get away from the river
for the purpose of saving time, but also on account
of the extreme discomfort~bf the place. The heat
is excessive, 120 in the shade ; vegetation there is
none, save the trees by the river; the light dusty
sand burns like fire, running the quicksilver of a
thermometer thrust into it at half-past two in the
E
50 CHAPTER I.
afternoon up to 159 ;* and to increase the discomfort,
every afternoon winds of extreme violence set in
from the west, blowing clouds of light dust that seemed
to envelope the tops of the mountains, many of which
are two or three thousand feet above the level of the
river ; whilst, setting into our skin, constantly bathed
in perspiration, it produced an extremely unpleasant
sensation. Mr. Bell, the Survey or- General of the Cape
Colony, says, in his Report on Little Namaqualand, in
1855 : " I saw Namaqualand at the best time of the
year, and its aspect, even then, was far from inviting.
The sandy flats and rugged mountains in the south
present a general character of wild sterility ; but it is
in the northern tracts, bordering on the Orange River,
where its desert assumes its most appalling appearance.
Twenty-four years of occasional travel: have led me over
most parts of Southern Africa. I have been in the
Kallihari deserts and across a considerable portion of
the Island of Ascension, and therefore ought to know
what a wilderness is ; but until I saw the country near
the banks of the Orange River, in Namaqualand, I had
no adequate idea of utter desolation." Through this
part of the country we had been travelling for a fortnight,
and now that we were in its "most appalling" neigh-
bourhood, no one will wonder we were anxious to depart.
It was to me a great delight when my waggon was
separated into its elementary parts, and wheels and
lower parts placed on the float for transit ; and as now
many small articles were loose on the northern shore,
and I was wishful to have them under my own pro-
tection during the night, I accompanied the cargo this
* Lectures of Sir John Herschel.
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 51
time, not in the capacity of a passenger, but of a
swimmer, assisting to propel the raft. On nearing the
northern shore I left the raft and men, and swam down
the stream with the rapid current. But I had scarcely
left when a long-armed swimmer came in pursuit,
cheered on by the shouts of his companions, " Catch
the Englishman, catch the Englishman!" He could
not succeed, however, and the Englishman gained the
ground first. I had found the value of this art to a
missionary before, and now I gathered that the natives
thought all the more of a man able to help himself in
this respect. In the evening another raft, containing
the last remnant of my property, and incomparably the
most valuable of all, my good wife, seated on her
Neptunian car, was put through the river. It required
some nerve, as it was so dark as to make it needful to
keep a fire burning on the shore she had left, and also
one on that where I stood, to guide the swimmers to
the right spot. Her heart had not failed her, and with
light step she bounded from the raft to join me on
the soil of Great Namaqualand. Our boxes, and other
baggage, lay upon the beach, our waggon was lying in
pieces around, all our friends were on the other side of
the river, even the swimmers had returned to sup and
sleep ; and all alone, with the exception of one elderly
man named Tonnis, we spent the night beneath the
sylvan shades on the bank othe stream. Tonnis aided
us in drawing our waggon-sail for a roof over a tempo-
rary support, and then with mattresses on the sand we
reposed for the night. Serpents and scorpions may
have been there, and for aught we can tell they may
have made a passage over us, whilst we slept ; nothing
E 2
52 CHAPTER I.
was more likely than that a wolf or tiger should come
down from the mountains to the river side to drink
after the heat of the day ; but nothing harmed us. We
had " hearkened unto " Him who had called us to that
spot, and into those circumstances, and He made us to
dwell safely. Adam and Eve, in the bowers of Paradise,
were not safer under the immediate guard of heaven's
angels than were we beneath the bowers of the Ky
Gariep !
By Thursday morning, the 25th of January, our
whole party were safely landed on the north side of the
river. The last scene of interest was the passage of
the river by our draught-oxen. Till now they had been
in charge of two men, but in the afternoon they were
brought to the river-side, when after a few shouts from
the men of " trek, loop," and a sharp crack of the huge
whip, led cautiously by the old oxen, they all readily
took the water and swam through. They seemed to
swim deeply, as the whole body was submerged, and
nothing but their horns and faces were visible, the latter
thrown up horizontally on the surface of the water.
They all landed safely, but one wilder than the rest
took the water again, and when we saw him in the
middle of the river, borne along by the current, and
turning round and round like a drowning cat, we almost
gave him up for lost. At last making for the other
side he reached it in safety, and we were obliged to
send two swimmers over to escort him back. Having
repacked our waggons, and paid the swimmers for
their services, as soon as the glowing heat of the day
began to abate, the oxen were put to the yoke, and, just
fresh from the river, looked as if their coats had been
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 53
polished for the occasion. Away we went on what
were now some of the last stages of the journey, with
light hearts, having the trees of the river on our right,
and the rugged "walls" of the Ky Gariep, i.e., the
Great Kiver, as the natives call it, on our left, till,
coming to a natural opening at their base, we turned
and took our proper course northward. Next morning
we reached Zand Fontein, where a son of the chief soon
made his appearance, mounted on horseback, and bring-
ing the pleasing intelligence, that his father and a
number of his principal men were approaching.
Before long the whole cavalcade appeared, descending
the slope of a hill, all mounted in true African style, on
oxback, the chief, by way of distinction, riding a milk-
white ox. On coming up to our encampment they dis-
mounted, and after we had shaken hands with the chief,
our whole party had to pass through the same ceremony
with every one of the chief's company. A few inquiries
were made with respect to the affairs of the station,
when the chief and his men considerately withdrew
from our waggons to the shade of some camel-thorn
trees to pass the heat of the day. Having heard of our
arrival at the Orange River, they were coming to
" swim us " through, a kindness which we fully appre-
ciated, though they came too late. As they had sent
on a man with slaughter sheep for their consumption
on the journey, one was soon killed ; but as the means
for cooking were limited, ancf the party large, the cook-
ing and eating process was kept up pretty nearly the
whole time they remained with us. As they are
passionately fond of tea, we sent them a small supply,
and after we had refreshed ourselves by partaking of
54 CHAPTEK I.
the same beverage, we again made preparations for the
start; but as eight-and-forty oxen had to be caught,
drawn out and yoked to our three waggons, and upwards
of thirty of the chiefs company to be bridled and
saddled, this occupied some time, and occasioned no
small dust and bustle. At length we were in motion.
Evening soon fell, and "the stars appeared." It was
a brilliant night. Not the fragment of a cloud was
visible on the blue arch of heaven. The finest stars and
constellations were up ; and the northern heavens im-
mediately in front of our waggons were remarkably
rich and full, being at their very best at this season of
the year. The proof was most demonstrative that we
had passed from the northern into the southern hemi-
sphere.
During this, one of the last stages of our journey,
we experienced a marvellous exhilaration. Our cir-
cumstances were new and interesting. We had met
with some of the people with whom we were to live,
and were now nearing our mission home. If we looked
below, the earth appeared barren and blasted ; the rocks
were eaten into by age and atmospheric influences, and
were baked brown by the fiery rays of the sun ; but
whilst everything below was forbidding, the heavens,
those magnificent heavens, " declared the glory of God,
and the firmament showed His handiwork." We appre-
ciated the scene. Our hearts were filled with devotion,
and they naturally found expression in song. The
tune chosen was that sweet and devotional one, " Byzan-
tium : " the hymn
" Eternal Wisdom ! Thee we praise,
Thee the creation sings ;
THROUGH THE WILDERNESS TO NISBETT BATH. 55
With Thy loved Name, rocks, hills, and seas,
And Heaven's high palace rings.
Thy Hand, how wide it spreads the sky !
How glorious to behold !
Tinged with a blue of heavenly dye,
And starred with sparkling gold."
These verses we sang ; and as we sang the oxmen of
the chief's company crowded around the waggon, eager
to catch every sound, and in their eagerness came so
close that the feet of their oxen were in danger of getting
under the wheels of our waggon. Thus we went on our
way to our wilderness " Zion with singing, and with
everlasting joy upon our heads." The whole of this
night was spent in travelling, with the exception of a
rest of two hours, just after midnight ; and about seven
a.m., from a rising in the road, we looked down upon
the station, still a couple of miles distant. To hearts less
enthusiastic the scene was calculated to depress rather
than cheer. A dreary -look ing plain w r as spread out to
view, and in the centre of that stood the lone mission- -
house and chapel side by side in the midst of a seeming
wilderness; for though a few native huts were on the
station, they were too small to be seen at that distance.
The only verdant spot was the missionary garden to the
right of the station, and that was beautifully verdant,
with green fig trees and other produce, kept green by
daily irrigation from the fountain. All immediately
around us was uninviting. We were now travelling
over a hard, undulating -surface, strewn with loose
stones, with rocks, brown and calcined, jutting through
here and there. Large vultures were slowly wheeling
in circles far over head, whilst others were perched on
the rocks around us, a wild and barren scene. No
56 CHAPTEE I.
trace of vegetation was visible, save here and there a
shrivelled tuft of grass, white as the driest hay, and a
few aloes of stunted growth in the crevices of the
rocks. At eight in the morning, on Saturday, the 27th
of January, 1844, our waggons drew up in front of the
mission premises, and we felt that the goal towards
which we had been almost incessantly travelling, both
by sea and by land, for twenty wearisome weeks, was at
last attained.
CHAPTER II.
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE.
GREAT Namaqualand lies north of the Orange River,
between 23 and 28 30' of south latitude. It is bounded
on the west by the South Atlantic, north by Damara-land,
east by theKallihari Desert, and south by the Orange River.
The southern portions at least are a vast elevated table-
land, about two thousand feet above the level of the sea.
The Nisbett Bath Mission Station " is situated on a plain
so elevated that the peaks of mountains that appear lofty
at the side of the Orange River, only emerge here a
few hundred feet above the surface of the plain, and the
barometer only rises to about twenty-six inches." The
plains of Great Namaqualand, which are the principal
feature of the country, are of vast extent, and are
many of them covered with a long grass about three
feet in height, which, when in seed, and waving in
the wind, reminds one of a field of oats. This is
commonly known as the Towa or Bushman grass, pro-
bably because the plains in Bushmanland, on the south
of the Orange River, are mostly covered with it, and
because of the important use-ihe Bushman makes of its
seed as an article of food. This grass seems adapted
by Providence to the hot and dry nature of the country,
for it is exceedingly durable, and even after a drought
of two or even three years' continuance, it stands erect
58 CHAPTER II.
and waving in the breeze, though white and withered.
It must be exceedingly nutritious, for, even after long
droughts, the oxen that roam over the plains, only
coming every second day to drink at the fountain on
the station, are mostly in excellent condition, and
sometimes rolling in fat, when the sheep and milch
cows that have to feed nearer home are poor and lean
in the extreme. This grass formed the only forage for
our horses, when on journeys of a hundred and sixty
miles from home; but it was strong food, and enabled
them to effect their journeys with great energy and
spirit. It grows in tufts, the roots of which are three
or four inches in diameter, separated from each other
by the intervening soil. There is another grass, of a
sour kind, growing not in tufts, but in separate stems,
like wheat, but reaching a height of only eight or nine
inches. This grass, after exposure to the sun's heat
for a few weeks, crumbles into dust and utterly
perishes. In many parts low shrubs variegate the
plain ; but except in the neighbourhood of a periodical
river, trees are so extremely scarce, that if one affording
tolerable shade should happen to occur in a plain over
which the traveller passes, he will not fail to mark
the exact spot, so that in travelling the same region
again, he may know where to find relief by the way.
It sometimes happens, however, that in the distance the
traveller espies a winding line of trees exhibiting a green
appearance, in refreshing contrast with the grey and
barren aspect of all around. These indicate the course
of a periodical stream, of which there are many in Great
Namaqualand ; though, unfortunately, they run only for
a few hours once in the year, perhaps, or even less
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 59
frequently, so that generally, instead of the flowing
stream, they only exhibit beds of glowing sand to the
bloodshot eye of the thirsty traveller. The only stream
throughout the whole country that flows perennially is
the Orange River. Including its windings, it is about
one thousand miles in length from its source to the
ocean. Rather to the eastward it has some fine
falls. Of this part Mr. Moifat says : " The Orange
River here presents the appearance of a plain, miles in
breadth, entirely covered with mimosa trees, among
which the many branches of the river run, and then
tumble over the precipices, raising clouds of mist,
when there is any volume of water." But though a
constant stream, it can scarcely be said to water the
country ; for its bed lies so much below the general
level of the land, that it is rather the great drain of
the country through which it has its course. Its banks
are generally margined with trees, among which are
the willow, the Acacia detinens, the roxyntje-boom,
the dabby, the ebony, and some others. Several
sorts of fish abound in its waters, some, as the natives
informed me, of four and a half feet in length, and
among the rest the flathead, mentioned by Burchell.
The hippopotamus was once very numerous, but their
number has been much thinned since firearms were
introduced. Though five hundred yards wide at the
part with which I am acquainted, in the winter season
it is generally low, and at-eertain fords the traveller
can drive his team and waggon through ; in the summer
it is generally full, and it is then a formidable stream.
Of fountains there are exceedingly few, there being
only eight or ten in a country thousands of square
60 CHAPTER II.
miles in extent, one of the strongest being the one on the
Nisbett Bath Station, which has a temperature of 102
to 105. This stream I never saw sensibly diminish in
the volume of water it supplies, even during droughts
of the longest continuance. The depressions in dif-
ferent parts of the country, however, form natural
reservoirs, of various dimensions, which are replenished
by the thunder-rains, and afford a supply both to the
wild animals, and also to the flocks and herds of the
people, till, by absorption on the one hand, and by
evaporation on the other, the waters disappear. " The
soil," says Mr. Moffat, " contiguous to the fountains,
is generally so impregnated with saltpetre, as to crackle
under the feet like hoar-frost," which is particularly
true of that near the fountain of Nisbett Bath.
The geological character of the country must be left to
the scientific and practical geologist ; but in general it
may be remarked that the abundance of granite, gneiss,
quartz, mica and talc schists, and clay slate, show it
to belong to the earliest formation of rock. And, as
Mr. Moffat remarks : i( Quartz is so abundantly scat-
tered, reflecting such a glare of light from the rays of
the sun, that the traveller, if exposed at noon-day, can
scarcely allow his eyelids to be sufficiently open to
enable him to keep the course he wishes to pursue."
This being the character of the district, the soil, such as
it is, being almost exclusively a granitic sand, is merely
the wearing down, during the course of ages, of the
rocks around, or immediately below.
The mountains, in some parts, run along in low ranges,
and, in others, attain a considerable height, as the Karas
Bergen, near the centre of the country, which rise to
CHEAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 61
an elevation of three thousand feet above the elevated
table- land on which they stand. Several mountain
peaks, of a remarkable kind, occur near to, or within
sight of, the mission station. There is one about fifteen
miles to the east, known as the Zwart Kop, and several
farther off in the plains to the south-east, known as
the Zwart Kopjes, all of which are quite black; " but
whether," says Mr. Backhouse, "they be entirely mica
or contain tin, is an interesting question." But the
great characteristic of the country is not its mountains,
but its vast and ample plains.
The botany of such a country cannot be expected to
be rich. A few aloes, growing out of the crevices of
the rocks, and euphorbias here and there are to be seen ;
and once a striking flower of rather large size arrested
my attention, which proved to be a carrion -flower,
" with square, succulent, leafless stems, and flowers
resembling star-fish." The odour is that of putrid
meat, but the plant " has an insipid yet cool and watery
taste, and is used by the natives for the purpose of
quenching thirst." These are the chief plants that
arrested my attention ; whilst the principal trees are
the mimosa, the camel-thorn, the wild ebony, the
yellow tree, and the koker, or quiver tree. " The
acacias," says Mr. Burchell, " present some remarkable
species. Acacia vera, and Acacia Capensis, are often
loaded with large lumps of very good and clear gum,
and they have so great a resemblance to the true acacia
of the ancients, or the tree which yields the gum arabic,
as to have been considered the same species. Wherever
these trees are wounded the gum exudes ; and it is
probable that a large crop might thus be annually
62 CHAPTER II.
obtained without destroying them. If a computation
could be made of the quantity that might be obtained
from those trees only which skirt the Gariep and its
branches, amounting to a line of wood (reckoning both
sides) of more than two thousand miles, it would be
found that the supply thus obtained would be more than
equal to the whole consumption of Britain."
The Acacia giraffes, or camel-thorn tree, Mr.
Burchell describes as a remarkable species, "having
thick brown thorns, and an oval pod, of a solid mealy
substance within, and which never opens, as those of
other acacias. The head of the tree is thick and spread-
ing, and of a highly peculiar form, which distinguishes
it at a great distance. Its wood is excessively hard
and heavy, of a dark or reddish brown colour. It is
called the camel-thorn tree, because the camelopard
browses chiefly on it ; and it is one of the largest trees
in these regions." However long the wood may be
dried, the texture is so hard and close that it sinks in
water like a stone.
Of the Acacia detinens, he says : " The largest shrubs
were nearly five feet high, a plant quite new to me, but
well known to the people by the name of Haakedoom
(Hook-thorn). I was preparing to cut some specimens,
when, though proceeding with the utmost caution, a
small twig caught hold of one sleeve. While trying to
disengage myself with the other hand, both arms were
seized by these rapacious thorns, and the more I tried
to extricate myself the more entangled I became ; till at
last it seized hold of my hat also, and convinced me
that there was no possibility of getting free but by main
force, and at the expense of tearing all my clothes. I
GEE AT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 63
therefore called for help, and two of my men came and
relieved me by cutting off the troublesome branches.
In revenge for this ill-treatment, I determined to give
to the tree a name which should serve to caution future
travellers against venturing within its clutches." It is
known to the natives not only as the Haakedoorn, but
quite as much by the name the Wacht-een-beetje-doorn,
or the Wait-a-bit-thorn !
Its birds are the ostrich, which is to be frequently
seen on the plains ; vultures, circling high in the air,
sometimes at such an elevation as scarcely to be visible,
but ready to swoop down with the rapidity of lightning
upon anything that may attract their unrivalled scent
or keener vision. Crows are numerous, on the look
out for all sorts of offal, and very destructive to weak
and sickly lambs, whose eyes they pick out and feed
upon under the protection of a scout, perched upon a
tree near at hand, ready to give the alarm as soon as an
enemy is in sight. A very remarkable bird inhabiting
the country, and making its nest in the mimosas and
camel-thorn trees, is the republican bird, or social gros-
beak. A roof, like that of a thatched house, is built
over many branches of the tree, and the nests are entered
from beneath, as a protection against serpents, the roof
projecting some distance beyond the entrance to the
nearest nest. There are many entrances, and regular
streets, with nests on each_side, at about two inches
from each other. From five to eight hundred birds are
sometimes found congregated together in one com-
munity ; and sometimes the trees have been known to
give way under the weight of the birds and their
dwelling. The wood pigeon and partridge are numerous,
64 CHAPTER II.
and frequent pools and fountains to drink at regular
hours, the latter about seven a.m., and the former
about five p.m. Ducks and geese are in good number
near the pits and pools in the bed of the periodical
rivers.
South Africa is remarkable for its quadrupeds. In
no part of the globe is there so large a number, and
some are of the largest dimensions. But elephants,
rhinoceri, camelopards, indeed all the larger animals,
have retired from this part of Great Namaqualand, and
have gone considerably to the northward, so that they
are never seen now ; but leopards and panthers, wolves,
jackals, and the hunting hyena, or wild dog, as the
natives call it, are still numerous, and this latter is the
most destructive animal that infests the country. It
hunts in regular packs, attacks and devours everything
that comes in its way, and very few even of the swiftest
animals escape from its pursuit ; for, when hunting
any of the antelope species, they have relays of the pack
stationed in certain parts of the plain ; towards these
they chase their game, and party after party take up
the chase, fresh and ready, when the others are weary,
chasing the animal in a vast circle, till, wearied out by
their relentless pursuit, it falls a victim to their voracity.
Oxen in presence of a pack standing with their hind
quarters in the centre of a circle present an array of
horns too formidable for even such an enemy to attack ;
but oxen weak and sickly, and that become separated
from the herd, are easily surrounded, and in a few
hours devoured. Even vigorous oxen are sometimes
stealthily approached in their sleep, and suffer the loss
of their tails, in whole or in part, as I have often
'GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. C5
seen.* Fortunately hyasnas seem to have a very intelli-
gent dread of fire-arms, and do not appear again for a long
time after a few of their number have been shot. Zebras,
quaggas, or the wild ass ; the eland, the gemsbok, the
springbok, and other species of the deer or antelope, are
numerous ; and the springbok, after the rains have
fallen and the young grass appears, unscared by the
prevalence of fire-arms, still frequent the country in vast
numbers. When they abound, lions may be looked for ;
indeed, then all the beasts of prey are specially alive
and on the qui rive, "seeking their meat from God."
The muishond, or ichneumon, a small animal, closely re-
sembling the weasel, has a natural antipathy to the
serpent race, and attacks them with great ingenuity and
courage. The natives, who are keen observers, say it
has been seen preparing for such a conflict by providing
for itself a singular shield. Biting a hole in the centre
of a dried cake of cow dung, it has been seen to thrust
its head through the hole, thus carrying it as a shield of
defence, and at the same time as a foil, by which to
distract the attention of the reptile, when, avoiding the
deadly stroke of the envenomed fangs, it adroitly seizes
the serpent by the throat and destroys it. If a hollow
bone should be the only means available, it has been
known to thrust its head through that, and, with this
remarkable armour, attaefe and destroy the enemy.
The ferret, the squirrel, the porcupine, the hare, abound
* " A young officer of my acquaintance," says Mr. Backhouse,
" was lately crossing the Great Fish River at the ford called
Trumpeter's Drift. When in the track, in the bush, a pack of these
animals fell upon his dog ; while they were devouring it, he escaped,
under the conviction that had not their attention been temporarily
occupied with his dog, himself and his horse would have been in
great danger."
F
(J CHAPTER II.
in different parts of the country. The ophidia are of
great variety, and in general very deadly. The yellow
snake, the yellow-spotted, which are the South African
cobra, the puff-adder, the horned snake, which is only
about twelve or fourteen inches in length, though it lias
very large fangs in proportion, and is extremely venom-
ous, and the spug slang, a black snake which has the
remarkable faculty of spitting its poison, as its name
denotes, are numerous.
The climate of Great Namaqualand is, for the largest
portion of the year, one of intense heat, far surpassing
anything the latitude of the place might lead one to
expect, owing chiefly to the rocky and sandy nature of
the country, the absence of large vegetable growths, and
the extreme scarcity of water : in addition to which the
rays of an almost vertical sun, in December and
January, and the reflection of the heat from bare rock
and sand glistening with quartz, mica, and talc, render
the temperature almost insufferable. The wind blowing
from the north and east over immense tracts of country,
having so heated a surface, comes like blasts from a
furnace ; and if, on the hottest days, between one and
three in the afternoon, a door facing that quarter be
opened and the head exposed, it seems almost enough
to strike one dead, such is the interiseness of the <rlow.
* O
On days like these, doors and windows are carefully
closed from about ten in the morning till the day begins to
decline. By this means the temperature of the air in the
house is kept twenty degrees lower than that of the air out-
side in the shade. But though the heated air is kept out by
closing up doors and windows, the want of a free circu-
lation makes the oppression within almost unbearable ;
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 67
and sometimes, rather than forego the relief which
some action in the atmosphere would impart, we have
thrown open the door or window, when, the outer air
rushing in, the quicksilver might be seen to run up
the tube of the thermometer like a thing of life. The
natives give way to such weather, and yield themselves
up to regular siestas of two or three hours' duration in
the day, and to rouse a sleeping Namaqua under such
circumstances would be almost worse than sacrilege.
The dogs of the village imitate the example of their
masters ; the world seems wrapped in slumber, scarcely
a sound being heard save the hum of the beetle on the
wing ; nothing living seems' astir, but on every side the
incessant flicker of the intensely rarefied atmosphere near
its contact with the burning earth is distinctly to be seen.
High up, however, far away, in the blue vault above, the
vulture may be seen sweeping in circles over the village,
on the look-out for anything acceptable.
On such days I have sometimes been compelled to
travel, and have seen the ostrich standing in the plains
with open beak, and with its small wings lifted from its
sides, distressed with the heat, and instinctively exposing
itself to any breath of air that might happen to stir across
the country. And after a long stage, when we had out-
spanned and made the oxen fast to the yoke, to prevent
their wandering too far in search of water, so hot has
the ground been that they could not endure to stand,
but have alternately lifted their feet to allow the air to
circulate around them, till from sheer necessity we have
been obliged to resume the journey, or to order them to
be liberated from the yoke. Trying as is the heat by
day, the climate might be more tolerable to an European
F2
68 CHAPTER II.
if the nights were even comparatively cool. But for
many months it almost constantly happens that when
the heavens are bright with glorious constellations and
we look for cool refreshment, everything around us still
glows, and sleep is impossible. Often have I gone to
the room below, in which my thermometer hung, when
at one or two o'clock in the morning I have read it off
at from 93 to 96, though the window had been wide
open for the whole night. On such occasions, as the
only mode of getting a little rest, I have carried a sofa
mattress outside the house, and, with nothing warmer
than light trousers and a brown holland coat, have cast
myself down on it and slept till daylight.
The day of rain is of all days the greatest for this
region, and awakens a joy which no Englishman, who
has resided only in his native countiy, is able to realise.
In December a few showers are hoped for, rather than
calculated upon, and again about April or May, though
it not unfrequently happens that these hopes are dis-
appointed. A steady continuous rain, unaccompanied
with thunder and lightning, is of very rare occurrence.
The blessing of rain almost invariably comes attended
by terrors. "His lightnings" enlighten the whole
heavens, flashing up in huge sheets all around and from
below the horizon, for several evenings before a drop of
rain falls, and the morning dawns cloudless and bril-
liant as before. Day by day the heavy thunder-clouds
gather again, and pile themselves one upon another in
the north-eastern quarter of the heavens like a huge
electric battery, keeping us waiting expectantly for days
together, but gathering in intensity for the grand
display. At length the whole heavens are covered with
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 69
dark and massive clouds. The lightnings dart in
zigzag lines across the sky ; chain lightning, forked
lightning, sometimes fireballs, come from the clouds and
split up into zigzag fragments, flying in all direc-
tions ; and yet not a drop of rain falls. The thunders
are first heard muttering from afar ; then rumbling and
rolling louder and louder in their approach ; and at
length they crack and crash and utter one continuous
roar, till the earth seems to quail beneath the mighty
reverberations. Then down comes the rain in floods
upon the hot and steaming ground. By these rains the
face of the earth is "renewed," and the grass grows
and flowers spring where an Englishman would imagine
they had never sprung before, and with a rapidity that
is amazing. The soil is warm, the rain warm, and
everything springs as in a hothouse.
Owing to the excess of electricity, hail is not an in-
frequent accompaniment of the storms of summer. Once
in the month of December a storm broke over the station
which made havoc of all the gardens. The hail was as
large as marbles and broke many panes of glass in our
house, and would have destroyed the whole, had we not
prevented the possibility by throwing open the casement
windows. The thunder and lightning were grand in
the extreme, and the floods of rain which succeeded
to the hail were such as to deluge the entire place.
Streams of twenty or thirty feet in breadth ploughed
up the stony ground, and poured along in careering
waves before and behind the mission premises. The
thermometer, which was standing at 110 in the shade
before the storm began, was in half an hour reduced
to 68. The regret caused by the devastations of the
70 CHAPTER II.
storm was, however, greatly diminished by the hope
that, in a week or two, the new grass would furnish
more milk for the people than their gardens would have
supplied food.
When these storms occur in the dead of the night,
they are enough to strike awe into the depths of the
soul. The natives of a whole village will sometimes
rise in the dead of the night and light their fires, as
some mitigation of the terrible glare of the lightning.
The winter winds from the south are often very
keen, and are felt peculiarly sharp after the enfeebling
effects of the intense heat of summer. Once I saw the
thermometer down to 30, and brought in as a novelty
for my wife to see, and as a remembrancer of the winters
of our native land, a mug that had been left out during
the night, full of ice ! Such a degree of cold does not
often happen, and is of very short duration, so that before
the constitution can derive any benefit from it, the
heat sets in again, and the frame is relaxed as before.
Days of cold and days of great heat often alternate
even in mid-winter, and are extremely trying to any
constitution.
The most prevalent winds are from the west and
north-west. The north-east bring over great storms.
Continuous rains for a day or two, whenever they
do occur, are brought by an east wind. The keen
winter winds are from the south, and rain never falls
while they last.
The climate is on the whole very salubrious, owing to
the dry ness of the atmosphere ; and if at any time fever
prevails, it is generally after the rains. The most
prevalent complaint from which the people suffer is
GtfEAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. i 1
inflammation of the eyes, occasioned by tlio intense
glare of the sun and the want of habitual cleanliness.
That which is the most difficult to be borne by an
European is the great heat, occasioning an almost per-
petual languor, and so diminishing the strength as to
render all exertion intolerable.
"The entire country, extending in some places
hundreds of miles on each side of the Orange River,
:mc! from where it empties itself into the Atlantic, to
bejond the twenty-fourth degree of east longitude,
appears to have the same character for dearth and
barrenness." " It is rare," continues Mr. Mo ft at, " that
rains to any extent or in any quantity fall in those
regions. Extreme droughts continue for years together.
The fountains are exceedingly few and precarious,
and latterly many of these have been dried up alto-
gether."
The inhabitants of Great Xamaqualand belong to the
Hottentot family. At the period when the Cape was
first discovered by Bartholomew Diaz, and also when
colonised by the Dutch, the whole of what is now de-
signated the Colony was inhabited by Hottentots proper,
whose origin and history continue involved in profound
mystery. They resemble none of the other tribes of
South Africa on the east or west coasts ; but by many
they have been thought ia-physical appearance to bear a
striking resemblance to the Egyptian or to the Chinese
races. Barrow thought that " in their colour, and the
construction of their features, they approach nearer to
the latter people than to any other nation." I have
myself been very much struck with this resemblance.
Referring to the notion of their Egyptian origin, Mr.
72 CHAPTER II.
Moffat says : " It may not be considered chimerical to
suppose that when the sons of Ham entered Africa
by Egypt and by the Red Sea, the Hottentot pro-
genitors took the lead, and gradually advanced in
proportion as they were urged forward by an increasing
population in their rear, until they reached the southern
extremity of the continent Research may yet prove
that that remarkable people originally came from
Egypt/' Arrested on the east by the bold and warlike
Kaffirs, they were impeUed westward and southward
where no powerful enemy occupied the country, and
where they were found by the Dutch two hundred and
thirty years ago dwelling on what is now the site of
Cape Town, and on the other lands of the Colony.
Thence, many of them, before the arrival of the Dutch
settlers, u stretched out into Great Namaqualand, along
the western division of the Colony, till, checked by a
barren country, they became located in their present
abode. Another division proceeding eastward settled
along the banks of the Orange River. Thus they became
separated into three great divisions the Hottentots of
the Colony ; the Koraunas, inhabiting the banks of the
Orange River; and the Great Namaquas," whose
country has been described.
The inhabitants of Great Namaqualand are divided
into about a dozen tribes, each under the rule of its own
chieftain.
The 'Kami 'Nuka, or Bondelzwaarts, are the most
important, influential, and, as it is thought, the most
populous tribe in the country. Xisbett Bath is the seat
of government, and the residence of the chief. It is
situated about sixty miles north of the Orange River.
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 73
The people are, generally speaking, in good circum-
stances, whilst the most wealthy among them are pos-
sessed of large flocks and herds, of horses and waggons,
and are better armed with European weapons than any
other tribe of Namaquas.
At a distance of about eighty miles to the eastward
are the Afrikaners. Amongst these people the Rev. R.
Moffat spent the first years of his missionary life, until
the London Missionary Society withdrew its labours
from that part of the field. Christian Afrikaner, the
chief, was converted through the instrumentality of his
ministry, and died in the faith of the Lord Jesus.
To the north-east, in the region of the Fish River,
reside the 'Karakikooika, or people of William Frans-
man. But a portion of this tribe is located, by
permission, in the territory of the 'Kami 'Nuka, at
a distance of about one hundred and twenty miles
from Nisbett Bath. This affords them the oppor-
tunity of enjoying the religious services of the Wes-
leyan Mission. About three hundred of the people of
the tribe are located in this place, which is called
Xieuwe Fontein, or New Fountain, whilst the chief and
his council reside with the largest portion of the tribe
near the Fish River.
To the north of Nieuwe Fontein, and one hundred
and eighty miles from -JSisbett Bath, is Klip Fontein,
where the tribe called the 'Khabobika, or the Velschoen
Draagers, reside. The chief is Henclrik Hendriks, a
man of scarcely middle age at the time I first met with
him ; yet a man of some notoriety. It is a somewhat
populous tribe, and the people have a good supply of
flocks and herds, horses and waggons, and, considering
74 CHAPTER II.
their distance in the interior, a considerable number
of guns for hunting purposes.
These were the tribes with which I came most fre-
quently in contact in connection with the work of
the mission ; and as all belong to the same family, and
have the same manners and customs, personal features,
and national characteristics, a description of the people
of my own circuit, which included the four tribes above-
mentioned, will serve for the whole race.
In personal appearance the Namaquas are of the
ordinary height, generally slight, with small hands and
feet, and for want of muscular exercise the upper limbs
are undeveloped, though, being great pedestrians, the
lower limbs are strong and muscular. The countenance
is not such as would strike the Circassian race as one of
beauty, the cheek-bones being high, the lips thick, the nose
depressed, the eyes wide apart, the hair black and crisp,
growing in tufts at a distance from each other,
" having the appearance and feel of a hard shoebrush."
The complexion is a light yellowish brown, though
many are nearly as white as an European, often
having a tinge of colour in the cheek. Their eyes are
of a deep chestnut, and their teeth beautifully white. The
limbs are generally well-proportioned and delicate, and it
is very rarely that a corpulent or deformed person is to
be seen. " Many of the women, when quite young, might
serve as perfect models of the human figure, so ex-
quisite is their form ; their hands and feet are small and
delicate, and they move in an easy and graceful man-
ner. Their charms, however, are quickly dissipated,"
when they enter on the married life and become the
mothers of families. Then their whole appearance un-
CHEAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. <5
clergoes a complete change. On the faces of many of
our converted Namaquas there was a beautiful expres-
sion, such as is produced by holiness within ; and despite
the inelegance of the separate features, an interesting
expression was worn by the faces of some who had not
come under the benign influence of religion.
As to disposition, the Great Namaquas are mild and
gentle, and withal cautious in their first intercourse
with strangers. The eye scans the countenance of the
stranger with a sort of questioning look, and, unless
assured of the character of the man beforehand, even
the saluting hand is held out with timidity. Though
many of them had taken the trouble to come from far
beyond the station to meet and welcome us on our
arrival, and though their confidence in the missionary was
greater than that reposed in any other stranger, we
could not fail to perceive unmistakable signs of a natural
wariness of disposition. It is only an open, straight-
forward, and kindly disposition that can win their confi-
dence, and even then it is somewhat slow in rising to the
point of comfort. When, however, their confidence is
once secured, their attachment is firm and loyal. Before
the Gospel was introduced into the country, many acts of
cruelty were perpetrated ; parents who had become aged
andinfirm, and who required more attention than formerly,
were sometimes taken by_the children to a lone spot,
supplied with a small amount of provisions, and left to
die, or to become the prey of wild beasts. Cases of this
kind are recorded by the Rev. R. Moffat, who spent a
short period in this region, and also by the Rev. Edward
Cook. Arbitrary and avaricious chieftains, too, would
often make an occasion against a man of wealth, and,
70 CHAPTER II.
under the semblance of just punishment for some crime,
victimise the subject to increase their own wealth. But
notwithstanding these, and many things of a similar
kind, it does not appear that they were nationally a
cruel people, even before the introduction of the Gospel.
It was not in every case a cruel disposition, but the lack
of food, that suggested the dire expedient of leaving the
aged with scanty provision. In some, deep cunning,
deceit, and a trace of treachery are found, but these
instances do not justify us in calling such qualities
characteristics of the nation.
They are not a warlike race. True, they have often
been engaged in internecine conflicts among themselves,
and in predatory incursions on neighbouring tribes ; but
these do not appear to have arisen so much from a love
of war for its own sake, as from the overmastering
vice of cupidity, and from a conviction that European
weapons had placed them in a superior position to the
enemy. That they are not destitute of courage is evi-
dent from the manner in which they hunt the wild beasts
of their country, when they often display a coolness and
courage worthy of any people. As soldiers, u a corps
of five hundred Hottentots had been formed into a
regiment in the Dutch service, prior to the British
attack on the settlement at the Cape in 1795, and they
are said to have acted with more spirit on that occasion
than any other part of the troops." This regiment was
afterwards adopted into the British service by Sir James
Craig, and additional numbers enlisted into it ; " and
better soldiers," said he, " are not trained from the lower
orders of any country." The testimony this officer gives
us to their general excellence, their sobriety, and intelli-
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 77
gent attention to every part of their duty as soldiers, is
very high. It is true that this is said of the Hottentots of
the colony, but I feel quite convinced that the indepen-
dent tribes of Great Nauiaquas would not be found inferior
in these respects, if placed in similar circumstances.
With regard to their intellectual powers, much of a
degrading nature has been said by men of infidel
principles who never knew them, and who have dis-
graced themselves by reckless theorising. The old
slander of Gibbon that the Hottentot race were " the
connecting link between the rational and irrational
creation " has been disproved a hundred times ; yet
in much more recent times it has been revived by
some gentlemen of the Anthropological Society, as
if it had never been exploded. It is not worth while to
proceed to a formal disproof of the unworthy assertion.
Those who have laboured amongst and know them, claim
to be as fully able to form a correct opinion respecting
them as their traducers, and their universal testimony is
precisely the opposite of that of such men. What would
any of these gentlemen, Gibbon included, have been,
had the desert been their home, had they been left as
destitute of instruction and of the means of intellectual
development as the tribes of South Africa in their
natural and "un christianised state? And what would
many of these natives have been with the same,
advantages of training as they enjoyed? To affirm,
therefore, that owing to some physical defect in their
organisation they are incapable of " a high degree of
civilisation, of an elevated knowledge, and an intelligent
piety," is to affirm what requires to be proved ; a
position unworthy of men of science.
78 CHAPTER II.
The testimony of the Rev. Henry Tindall, who, as the
son of a missionary, spent seven years of his boyhood,
and three of his youth, and subsequently many years of
his maturer life, as a missionary among the Great and
Little Namaquas, is to the following effect: "Much of
their talent is latent : they have little to rouse their
dormant energies. Many of them possess a strong
inventive and mechanical genius, and, if they had means
and opportunities of developing their faculties, would
become adepts in any branch to which their attention
might be directed. The principal elements of greatness
in which they appear to be deficient are diligence and
perseverance; they are proverbial for their sloth and
strong aversion to hard labour. But this is only
evinced with reference to such works and engagements
as are foreign to their education and habits. None will
surpass them in the performance of any task to which
they have been accustomed ; they will bear the greatest
fatigue and hardship, and endure the severest privations
to fulfil their purpose. As their knowledge and inter-,
course with the civilised world advances, and as they
become sensible of new wants, and find new occupations
inviting their energies, and offering an ample reward
for diligent toil, they are seen to rouse themselves from
their native apathy, and evince a desire to emulate the
attainments of others, and to rank as men among those
who have often denied them the dignity of the name."
They are a pastoral people. The description Joseph
gave of his brethren is applicable to them, for " th<;
men are shepherds, for their trade hath been to feed
cattle." Their sheep and cattle constitute almost their
only wealth, and from them they derive their chief
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 79
support. Could they regularly cultivate their lands
and gather in and live on the produce, that would give
them some additional occupation, and prevent those
terrible straits to which they are often driven by hunger,
and make them a settled people. Had they only suffi-
cient rain, I doubt not agriculture might be pursued ;
for, when looking upon the vast plains of Great Nama-
qualand, covered with the strong and high towa, or
Bushman grass, waving like cornfields to the breeze,
and capable of sustaining millions of grazing cattle, I
have often asked myself the question, What is there to
prevent this from becoming a land of abundance of
bread? But instantly the fact has presented itself that
the land is one of drought drought of long continu-
ance, and of heat insufferable, such as utterly to dis-
hearten all attempt at cultivating the ground. All that
can be done is to cultivate a few gardens near fountains
from which they can be irrigated morning and evening.
The milk and flesli of their flocks and herds are the
natural and almost the only reliable supply of provisions
they have. " Honey from the rock" is sometimes
brought home at the expense of getting the head and
face so swollen by the stings of the enraged bees, that
the aggressor, unable to find the path, has to be led
home, the swollen face and forehead meeting so com-
pletely, that it is impossible to see where the eyes of
the sufferer are. Occasionally an esculent root is met
with in the plains and dug up for use ; the animals of
the plains are hunted antelopes of every kind, the
zebra, quagga, ostrich, &c. ; ant-heaps are broken open,
their stores ransacked, and large quantities of grass-
seed carried off to be boiled in milk and made a very
80 CHAPTEK II.
agreeable dish. The plains are also wandered over in
search of nests of the ostrich, and great is the prize
when one full of sound eggs is found ; for these, beaten
np in milk and lightly boiled, are a delicious and
nourishing diet. Children climb the thorn trees and
pick off the gum to allay the cravings of hunger,
tightening their hunger-belts whenever the pinch of
famine becomes intolerable ; and sometimes, driven to
necessity, they gather together the dogs of the village,
gaunt and meagre as themselves, and go on a hunting
expedition of their own, and, for w-ant of more delect-
able game, they send them into the holes of the rocks,
turn out the jackals, and run them down, returning
home in triumph, not contenting themselves with the
tail of the fox as our red-coated gentlemen do, but
bringing the veritable animal, and rejoicing that by their
own exertions they have obtained something to eat !
Or fires are made under the bushes on which the locusts
have ranged themselves side by side, as thick as they
can stand, when, paralysed by the cold of the night and
unable to fly till the sun has warmed them, they fall
down scorched and maimed, are gathered at leisure,
fried and eaten. But whatever is gathered in this way,
the community principle, with regard to food, very
largely prevails. In this particular they have " all
tilings in common." If game is brought home, a whole
village collects about the house of the possessor till it is
all consumed ; and so with everything else. In this
way their ordinary supplies are considerably supple-
mented, and they are preserved from absolute starvation
in times of famine. Milk of all kinds is used the
milk of cows, sheep, and goats. When milk abounds,
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 81
everything flourishes ; the people rapidly improve
and soon appear in good condition ; the dogs,
sharing in their owners' abundance, soon change
their gaunt and hungry appearance, and grow bold
and saucy. For months together the people will
live exclusively upon this diet, so true is it that milk
contains in itself all the elements of support. The
milk, however, is not generally taken sweet : if used
in this state, it would be too heavy and constipating.
It is therefore put into a duly " seasoned " calabash,
where in a very short time it becomes " thick," and
slightly acidified, in Avhich state it is light, wholesome,
and nourishing to those who are accustomed to it.
Even the wealthy very seldom slaughter of their
flocks and herds when milk is abundant. When milk
is scarce, their only staple food is flesh. But the
well-to-do are never lavish or wasteful, and even the
wealthy are frugal and sometimes niggardly, and will
show astonishing powers of endurance rather than take
the life of sheep, goat, or ox. Perhaps the great reason
why they show so much chariness is the knowledge of
the fact that, whatever is slaughtered, whether sheep
or ox, the whole neighbourhood will expect a share, so
that the man himself and his family will derive scarcely
any more benefit than any other household of the
village. Yet he can -hardly refuse, because of the
custom that prevails. And when his neighbour
slaughters in his turn, he waits upon him, and expects a
portion. Yet this community principle operates in-
juriously, and in times of great drought none slaughter
without absolute necessity ; for this custom, whilst it
benefits the needy, has a tendency to strip the wealthy,
G
<S2 CHAPTER II.
to deprive his family of ordinary comforts, and to make
the whole nation feel the evils of poverty and hunger.
The notion has obtained in some quarters that the natives
are voracious eaters ; but this is only true under certain
circumstances, as, for example, in times of famine and
after long abstinence from food. Then, of course, the
demands of nature are ample and must be met ; but
when they obtain food at regular seasons, they eat no
more than we do ; whilst in times of scarcity their
powers of endurance are amazing.
The original native dress is seldom seen now, except
by those who travel beyond the mission stations and their
outposts ; for on the mission stations it is never seen at
all. In some respects it seems ill-adapted to the purposes
they have in view. " A belt cut from the skin of
some animal is fastened round the body of the man,
to which is attached a curious bag in front, tastefully
made of the skin of a jackal with the fur outside, which
is black in the centre and yellow at the margins.
Behind hangs a triangular piece of dried skin with
the broad part downwards to flap and cool the
body. A sheepskin in winter is all the addition that
is ever made ; it is worn with the wool inwards or
outwards according to the weather, and serves at night
for a bed and bedding. The female wears a long
fringe attached to the belt in front, made of a skin cut
into thin strips, and variously ornamented with shells,
metal buttons, glass beads, and other trinkets. The
whole of the body she covers with a sheepskin which
reaches down to the calf of her leg." The people of
the mission stations would be utterly ashamed to appear
in such a dress, and never do so ; they are in general
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 83
well clothed, either in dresses carefully prepared by a
process of tanning with which they are familiar and by
which they make the skin as soft and supple as cloth, or
in moleskins and cotton prints of English manufacture.
The men connected with the mission have universally
adopted the practice of converting prepared sheepskins
into jackets and trousers, and since the art of sewing
has been taught to the girls in the mission schools, they
have succeeded in making a very creditable appearance.
The government is by the chief and his raad, or
council, who are nominated in the first instance by the
chief, though, should he wish to introduce an unacceptable
member, the raadsmen have a right to object. They
constitute a legislative and executive body ; and, in fact,
they hold the responsible power of the nation in their
own hands. The " succession " is hereditary, the eldest
son succeeding to the chieftainship.*
The occupations of Namaqua life are at best but slight.
Their principal business consists in looking after their
flocks and herds ; but even this is light, and only
employs a small portion of the population. The
younger members of the family, or Damara servants,
generally take the sheep and goats to the pasturage in the
morning, and bring them home in the evening, leaving
the rest at leisure. As to the cows, they are mostly
driven to the pasturage and left to graze till the attrac-
tion of the young calves, tied up at the village, brings
them home, when as much milk as is required for
family purposes is taken, and the remainder left for
the calves. The oxen, which are only occasionally
required for riding, or for draught, require no care in
* Lectures by Rev. H. Tindall.
G2
84 CHAPTER II.
herding ; they take a drink at the fountain, go to the
plains and rove at large, returning about every other
day to drink, resting at the village during the re-
mainder of the day, and then in the cool of the night
slowly proceeding to the plains as before.
The same is the case with the horses. Many of them
range on the vast grassy plains twenty miles or more
from home, keeping generally to some favourite pasture
ground ; yet they are bound as by a chain to the station,
the fountain there being the only place at which they can
drink for many miles around. No anxiety is felt by their
owner if he should see nothing of them for weeks in suc-
cession : and if at any time they are wanted, the question
is simply asked of the first neighbour he meets, " When
did you last see my horses at the fountain ?" If on the
preceding day, he knows that they will come again on
the morrow, sets a watch, and when they approach they
are immediately driven into a kraal or enclosure before
they drink ; for, if first permitted to drink, they would
probably decamp to the plains without affording another
chance to those on the look-out to catch them ; those
wanted are taken, and the rest set at liberty. Or should
they not come to the fountain, as sometimes happens
after rain has fallen, and they can drink on the plains,
their resort is generally known, and one man mounted
can drive home a troop to the station a feat some-
times accomplished on foot. When the mission horses
were required for a journey, my man would take a bridle
in his hand, start very early, walk over towards a low
mountain range where they usually resorted, drive them
up among the rocks, catch "Jack," the most quiet,
mount him, and drive home the rest. Ranging so
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. >'')
raucli at large, and only partially trained, some of them
were very wild and spirited. On one occasion a troop
of horses had been brought into an enclosure near the
mission house, from which we wished to select three for
a journey I was about to take. For this purpose the
troop was gently driven up to one corner of the en-
closure, where men were quietly standing to bridle those
wanted. A little excitement occurred, when one of the
most timid animals broke through the cordon of men
standing in the rear, in spite of our efforts to prevent it ;
another instantly followed, dashed against me with his
chest, and struck me to the ground, turning me com-
pletely over, my feet being for a moment in the air ; the
Avhole troop followed, galloping either over or close by
me. But, though in the midst of their clattering hoofs,
none trod on or kicked me, nor did I suffer the slightest
injury ; the only inconvenience felt on rising to my feet
being extreme giddiness for a few moments, owing to the
sudden concussion and whirl. The first thing I noticed,
as soon as I could perceive anything, was a young urchin
describing the scene to his mother : " mamma, there
stood Mynheer with his head on the ground, and his feet
in the air ! "
The home occupations of the men are also light. They
make the wooden and other utensils of the family, and
their milk bowls, whick-are made of the soft willow wood
of the Orange River, and are sometimes carved on the ex-
terior very tastefully. Attention to their guns affords them
a little occupation. These weapons are not of the best
kind, many being the " brown Bess" so long since dis-
carded by our troops, and all having the old flint and lock,
which they prefer to the percussion locks and caps, simply
86 CHAPTER II.
because they can easily supply a lost flint, whereas it is
not so easy to supply nipples for the locks, or percussion
caps for the nipples. They are delighted with the rapid
and sure action of the percussion guns, for, as they say,
it takes so long for the powder to burn in the pan of the
old-fashioned lock before it reaches the charge and
explodes it, that meantime the hand may waver and
the aim be interfered with ; whereas, no sooner is the
trigger of a percussion rifle touched than " the ball is
out ! " When the guns they use first come into their
possession, they almost always fire very incorrectly ; con-
sequently the first act of the native is to find out the
fault of his weapon. He sets up a mark on the side of
a bank, so that he may dig out and recast his bullets ;
so placing himself as to be rested at every point, when
he fires a number of shots. Perhaps all go on one side
of the mark. He takes the gun home, and sets to work
with file and hammer, and shifts the sight. Thus he
tries, and tries again, till the weapon fires straight. Or
perhaps the balls fly in the line of the object, but in-
variably go either above or below it. The sight is then
filed down, or a higher one introduced, as may be
necessary, till at length his instrument fires true. Some,
however, can never be got quite right, but, knowing
the error, he allows for it in practice. A man thus
acquainted with the peculiarity of his gun, is a for-
midable enemv to the same of the wilderness.
/
A little smithing to their waggons affords some employ-
ment, and as in that intensely dry climate the woodwork
shrinks rapidly, their attention is constantly required.
The more heavy and difficult work of shortening the
bands of the wheels is, however, chiefly performed by
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. S?
the more intelligent Bastaards, who have learned it from
o *
the Dutch, and who often do the work with some degree
of skill. Small patches of garden-ground are cultivated
by some of the people, where pumpkins, maize, the
tobacco plant, and the fig-tree, are the principal things
raised. But owing to the scarcity of suitable ground,
and of water to irrigate, very little can be done in this
way, and in most parts of the country nothing at all.
The women make the reed mats, and build the houses,
which consist of a skeleton frame of light sticks, the ends
of which are placed in holes dug in a circle. The upper
ends of these sticks are bent over and tied together in
the centre, until a framework for the light structure is
completed. A long mat is then placed edgewise on the
ground, and tied to these bamboo sticks. Other mats
are placed higher up, and tied in a similar manner ; and
one or two additional mats tied down to the bamboos
form the roofing. The preparation of sheep and goat
skins, in order to make articles of dress, affords further
employment for both sexes. Their shoes are made of
prepared goat-skin for the upper leathers, and the soles of
the thick part of the hide of the ox, the eland, camelopard,
or rhinoceros, which latter is exceedingly durable.
But their great occupation, after attention to their
flocks and herds, is the chase, This is not under-
taken for sport, but of necessity, as a means of main-
tenance. It is sometimes followed on foot. A man
takes his gun and walks to a spot where with telescopic
glance his eye can sweep the country. Should any-
thing be sufficiently near, he looks for the covert of
shrubs, trees, or the sandy bed of a river, taking care,
if possible, to keep to the lee-side, lest the wary animal
88 CHAPTER II.
should sniff up the scent, and decamp. Along this
covert he stealthily creeps, often on hands and knees,
till opposite the game : then his head is quietly raised,
his gun noiselessly laid along, deliberate aim is taken,
the weapon fired, and the game secured. The solitary
huntsman is sometimes so fortunate as to discover the
nest of an ostrich, with twenty or thirty large eggs in
it ; and knowing that before long the bird will return,
he conceals himself in the nearest bush, fires as it passes,
or whilst sitting upon the nest, and thus secures a
double prize. When a native is so fortunate as to
possess a horse, he takes his gun and rides to the plains,
when whatever first offers is followed. It is, however,
only the larger game that is thus hunted. The zebra
is not so swift as a good horse, but has great powers of
endurance ; it is by dint, therefore, of hard riding,
from the moment the chase is commenced, that he is
overtaken ; but unless shot at once, both horse and
rider might be severely injured by the savage biting
and kicking of this impracticable animal. Some animals
are approached slowly till they take alarm and begin to
run ; the huntsman rides coolly after, and continues the
chase, mostly at an easy canter, occasionally breathing his
horse, till the poor chased animal, wearied out by alarm
and continued running, is overtaken. This is sometimes
a perilous occupation. Some animals when driven up are
exceedingly fierce, and have terrible weapons of defence.
In this part of Namaqualand, the ostrich is fre-
quently hunted in this way. It is not attempted,
however, in winter, nor on cool days, for then "she
scorn eth the horse and his rider." On the hottest
days in summer, when scarcely any air is stirring,
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 89
the huntsman ventures forth on his distressing chase,
and not by the fleetness of his horse, but by long-con-
tinued running, exhausts the endurance of the giant
bird, which, overcome by heat and fatigue, at length
lies down. The huntsman rides up, and with a stroke
on its head from the thick end of his riding whip kills
it : the best feathers are plucked, the parts of the bird
fit for food fastened to the saddle, and the prize is borne
back to the village. But this is dreadful work, and the
lives of both man and horse are seriously imperilled by
such a chase. On one of these fearfully hot days an
ostrich passed near a village I had gone to visit. A
man saddled his horse and went in pursuit, and in three
or four hours returned nearly dead, whilst the poor
horse, when the saddle and bridle were removed, stood
with his legs stretched out, and his head hanging down
nearly to his hoofs, overstrained and exhausted to the
last degree. Sometimes hunting parties are got up,
when nearly all the men of a village will leave in their
waggons, with their ammunition and hunting horses,
trusting to the success of the expedition for subsistence
while absent. In this way large sections of country are
partially invested, animals of all descriptions brought
within a comparatively limited space, and large quan-
tities shot. The flesh is then cut into thin slices,
sprinkled with salt, and_dried in the shade and wind ;
and after several weeks passed in the plains the hunts-
men return with their waggons loaded with the dried
flesh of the quagga, zebra, and various kinds of ante-
lopes, affording subsistence to a whole village for a con-
siderable time.
Wild bsasts are chased when they become trouble-
90 CHAPTER II.
some or dangerous. If a wolf, leopard, or panther is
known to frequent a particular spot, a party of men is
soon formed, and the obnoxious animal destroyed ; but
so rapid and catlike are the motions of the leopard, that
it is necessary to hunt him with great wariness, other-
wise his teeth and claws are sure to be buried in the
flesh of some of the huntsmen. When pursued, it some-
times takes refuge in a tree, which it climbs with great
facility, and from whence it often springs upon its
pursuers ; and the rapidity and uncertainty of its motions
render it difficult to shoot with a rifle. The panther is
a considerably larger and more powerful animal than
the leopard, whilst the ocelli, or rounded marks, on the
panther are larger and more distinctly formed than
those of the leopard ; otherwise they do not much differ
from each other. It is very fierce, and is regarded as
one of the most untameable of the feline tribe, and is to
South Africa what the tiger is to India. The wild dog,
or hunting hyaena, is an exceedingly ferocious animal,
and hunts its prey in packs. When the Great Nama-
quas hunt this animal, a party of men ride out in
search of its lair, where it is generally found sleeping.
In the hottest part of the day they are driven up from
the plains by the horsemen over the rocky and burn-
ing ground, and their feet become scorched and worn
by the chase, when the huntsman rides up, and, at close
quarters, fires. In this way large numbers are shot, and
before long the rest leave that part of the country.
The lion once roamed over the plains around the Xi<-
bett Bath Station, and was rather frequently seen ; but
of late years, owing to the introduction of powder and
lead, and the system of extermination adopted, they
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 91
have become somewhat rare in that neighbourhood.
They still occasionally appear ; and during one year
of my residence we heard of nine, though not more
than two or three were known to be together at one
time. When the footmarks of these noble animals are
first observed, the person who discovers them proceeds
immediately to inform the chief. Several others, ex-
perienced men, are sent as soon as possible, in company
with the guide, to examine and to follow on the spoor or
trail for a short distance. If there are indications of
the spoor being recent, and becoming fresher the farther
they advance, the men hasten back to report to the
chief. The horses are collected from the plain, a party
of fourteen or fifteen men is formed, and then, proceed-
ing to the spot where the footprints are visible, they
carefully follow upon it, sometimes for days, till at
length they come in sight of the animals. At first they
often run, taking different directions, till one, finding
himself the object of attention, becomes chafed, and
takes up a position, generally with a tree or rock imme-
diately behind him.' The men dismount, deliver their
horses in charge to one or two others, and approach,
getting as near as possible. Perhaps the monster roars
and makes a bound or two in the direction of the party ;
but, if a firm front is shown, returns to his position, and
again roars, waving his stiffened tail majestically from
side to side. To make sure of their aim the men ad-
vance, if possible, to within fifty yards, and then sit
down upon the ground in the form of a semicircle.
The captain of the party orders a certain man to fire ;
deliberate aim is taken. The head is always aimed at,
as a ball through the brain produces instant death;
92 CHAPTER II.
whereas a ball has been known to go through the heart,
and yet afterwards the lion has killed a man. When
the men are calm and true to each other, the danger is
not great; but if any prove cowardly, and flee, the
peril is extreme.
Marriage amongst these tribes, as amongst all people,
is an affair of importance. A youth is smitten by the
beauty or other attractions of some young female, and,
generally through the medium of a friend, reveals his
passion. If accepted, and the match is consented to by
the parents, the chief, and his councillors, who must all
be consulted, an early day is fixed (for long courtships
are not approved of) , the young people assemble at the
house of the parents of the bridegroom, an ox is
slaughtered, a feast held amidst great merriment, and the
ceremony is accomplished. This is marriage a la mode
where the tribes live in their unevangelised state. But
on mission stations, after preliminary arrangements are
made, the missionary is informed, the banns are pub-
lished on three successive Sundays, and the parties
are united according to the rites of the Christian
Church. A little training, however, is necessary before
the ceremony has to come off; and even after such
instruction has been given, we sometimes find a dull
bridegroom has to be prompted to duty by his
brighter bride ; who, should his responses linger, in-
structs him, " You must say YES." The usual time
for the performance of the marriage ceremony was at
the close of the week-day morning service. On one
occasion, when the bridegroom alone was present, lest
there should be any mistake, he was privately asked,
" Where's the young woman ? " " Oodaha" Ik weet niet !
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 1)3
" I don't know," was the immediate reply. Several
started off to make inquiries ; one or two pursued a
waggon proceeding to the plains to collect firewood,
when lo ! there was the lady, never for a moment
imagining that her presence could be at all needed at
the ceremony. She was instantly brought back in
breathless haste, one article of suitable attire was bor-
rowed of one, another of another ; and just when the
morning service was closing, tho bride was brought in,
duly "adorned for her husband;" the marriage was
celebrated, and the innocent pair were made happy. It
is only fair to state, however, in extenuation of the little
mistake, that these were not residents of the station,
but, in company with their parents, had travelled on
oxback nearly one hundred and fifty miles to the station
to be married.
Their mode of life is necessarily nomadic, wandering
wherever grass and water are to be found for their
flocks and herds ; though all their wanderings are
limited to a certain distance from the mission station;
to which as many as can do so return after the rains
have fallen and the grass has grown. The same must
be said as to several outposts, where, in general, they
live, as long as grass and water continue ; but from
which they wander to graze off unused territory, as
long as there is grass and water; and to which outpost
they return as soon as practicable. At the station, the
chief and the missionary are generally resident ; hence
that is the scat of principal attraction to the natives ;
but as all cannot reside there, it is necessary to have
several outposts, at each of which, if practicable, a
native assistant is stationed, and to which places the
94 CHAPTER II.
natives can return as soon as their wanderings to other
places in the vicinity cease. These wanderings are often
a great detriment to them religiously and intellectually,
as congregations and schools are thereby very much
thinned, and regular plans of instruction very much
interfered with. But they are unavoidable in such a
climate.
The language of the Great Namaquas is remarkable
for its strange clicking sounds, which abound, so that
not many words are found without their peculiar click,
or clicks. These clicks cannot be adequately repre-
sented by any combination of letters, so as to acquire
the sounds from a book. The only way in which this
can be done is viva voce. Moreover, they occur so fre-
quently, and form such an important part in the root of
many words, that they are an essential element in the
language, and could not be dispensed with unless it
were entirely reconstructed. The construction of the
language is regular and beautiful.
The Great Namaquas are very fond of music, but
their instruments, like those of the other tribes of the
Hottentot family, are few and simple. They have a
kind of guitar, with three strings stretched over a piece
of hollow wood, having a longish handle. Another,
called the goura, consists of a sinew twisted on a small
cord, and fastened to a hollow stick. At one end there
is a small peg to bring the string to a proper degree of
tension, and at the other a piece of quill fixed into the
stick, to which the mouth is applied, and tones are pro-
duced by breathing. The trommel pot is a milk bowl, over
which a piece of skin is tightly stretched, and is used
as a drum at their public dances. Reeds of several feet
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 95
in length are likewise made use of as flutes. But
missionaries at the present day scarcely ever see them ;
for the people themselves are so conscious of their
utterly imperfect character, and of the impossibility of
making them produce any really musical sounds, that
they seem ashamed even to allow them to be seen.
Their love of music, however, is very great, and I have
witnessed effects produced by the congregational sing-
ing on the mission station such as I have never seen
elsewhere, and such as never could be produced except
upon a people remarkably sensitive to harmonious
sounds. After my removal to Cape Town, being visited
by a native, I took him into the parlour and played
him a tune on a small seraphine. His head dropped, his
bosom began to heave with irrepressible emotion, and I
was obliged to stop, or he would have fallen over in a
faint, as I had very often seen the Great Namaquas do
Tinder the congregational singing, especially strangers,
who had come from far, and who attended the services
for the first time.
Their religious ideas were exceedingly few. Peter
Kolben, an early Dutch writer who lived in 1710,
asserts of the Hottentots of the Cape that, in his time,
they believed in a deity whom they described as "an
excellent man who does ill to no one, and lives far
beyond the moon ; but they regarded him as too
remote to be worshipped. When the moon is at the
full, they make sacrifices to her," he adds, " accom-
panied by prayer for favourable seasons, with dancing,
leaping, and violent grimaces. They had also a
malignant divinity, little, deformed, and ill-natured, to
whom they offered sacrifices by way of softening his
96 CHAPTER II.
temper." But modern travellers and missionaries find
none of these usages remaining, either among the
Hottentots of the colony, or the Namaquas.
Amongst the latter the original traditions seem to have
become almost, if not entirely, extinct. One day, when I
was questioning David Afrikaner, a man of remarkable
intelligence, as to the ideas prevailing amongst the
Namaquas respecting God : " Ah, Sir," said he, " we
knew nothing about Him, and we thought nothing
about Him ; we had our sheep, our goats, and our
oxen, and these were all we thought about or cared
for. " The fact that terms exist in the Great Namaqua
language denoting God, spirits, and an evil one, would
seem to imply that they were not altogether without
ideas on such subjects ; but they appear to have been
so faint as to be practically valueless. There was no
sense of responsibility, and no " fear of God before their
eyes." "And what were your ideas as to a future
state?" "We had none," said he. "Had you no
traditions on the subject?" "Well, yes, there was
this tradition, of which our old men used to tell us.
1 On a certain occasion the moon sent a hare with a mes-
sage to mankind to say that as she died and lived again,
so after death man would live again. The hare came
and told them, " After death you will live no more."
On returning to the moon, the moon said, " Well, what
sort of a message have you taken to mankind ? " " I've
told them," said the hare, " that after death they will
live no more." " Then," said the moon, flying into a
great passion, " why have you taken such a false mes-
sage to mankind? " and snatching up a hatchet that was
at hand, she fetched the hare such a blow on the upper
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 97
lip, as cleft it in two ; and that's the reason why, when
you see a hare, it has a cloven lip. The hare in return
flew into the face of the moon, and scratched it so
violently, that that's the reason why you see all those
dark marks on the face of the full moon.' Hence they
concluded that because the hare brought a wrong
message their doom was sealed; that when they died,
they died like a dog, and there was an end of them.
Whenever they saw a hare, they said, l See, there goes
the hare : if it had brought us a right message, then
after death we should have lived again ; but it brought
us a wrong message, and now after death we shall
live no more.' For this reason," said David, " we
always regarded the hare as an accursed thing, and we
would never eat its flesh. But now," said the old man,
his eyes glistening with delight as he spoke, " now that
life and immortality are brought to light by the Gospel,
we don't care for the old tradition, but we catch the
hare as often as we can, and we eat him too ! "
This was the only tradition I ever heard of as having
prevailed amongst them in early times, and the only one
with which David Afrikaner was acquainted ; whilst he
knew of no single practice that could be interpreted
into an act of religious worship. The Rev. Henry
Tindall says: "They do^iot seem, before they became
acquainted with the first principles of Christianity, to
have been in the habit of observing any rites or cere-
monies of a religious character, or to have had any
idea of responsibility to a higher Being. I believe
that the superstitious tales which have been gleaned
from them by travellers and advanced by them as
religious records, are regarded by the natives them-
H
98 CHAPTER II.
selves in the light of fables, which are either narrated
for amusement, or intended," as some of the allusions
indicate, " to illustrate the habits and characteristics of
wild animals."
" In their native state they appear to have had more
confidence in witchcraft than in religion," says Mr.
Tindall ; and even to this day many, amongst whom the
lingerings of superstition are still found, regard all
sickness, calamities, and especially death as traceable
to some enemy who is supposed to hold the fatal charm.
The practice of medicine is now almost exclusively
exercised by the wizard doctor, and though as a matter
of course he often fails to restore the patient, oc-
casionally the recuperative powers of nature bring him
through despite the wizard's treatment ; hence the
native is confirmed in the belief of his accusations, and
of the success of his art. He sometimes applies his
mouth to the seat of pain, and makes a hollow moaning,
at the same time adroitly dropping small sticks or little
pieces of sheep's bones upon the spot without being
observed, which he pretends to have extracted from the
part affected, and exhibits as the cause of the disease.
After such manifest sources of pain and uneasiness are
removed, amendment is supposed to follow.
Before closing this chapter, I must not omit to refer
to the Bushman people. The Bushmen are found inter-
spersed among all the tribes of Great Namaqualand,
and they may be said to stand in such a relation to
the tribes generally, as the gipsies of this country do to
the townspeople. " They appear," says Rev. H. Tindall,
" to have sprung from poor Hottentots, who by war, or
some other calamity, had been deprived of their cattle,
GREAT NAMAQUALAKD, AND ITS PEOPLE. 99
and were necessitated to break up their communities,
and range the desert for support in isolated groups."
11 The agreement of the Bushman dialect with the
Hottentot in its structure and general principles, is an
additional proof that they undoubtedly belong to the
same race, and have only been separated by the force
of such circumstances as those we have alluded to.
Bushmen are to be met with in the most unlikely spots :
in the mountain cavern, on the rugged hill, on the
solitary plain, in the wild and shady retirement of the
streamless river-bed, where it seems utterly impossible
for any human being to subsist, where no water flows
to quench his thirst, where no flocks roam, and no culti-
vated ground yields its fruits to satisfy his craving
appetite, and where no human voice awakens or charms
the emotions of his soul, this sorry and pitiable speci-
men of humanity may be seen ; the juice of the wild
melon, or the moisture of some succulent root, or the sap
of the mimosa bark, his only drink ; the bulbs and roots
of the earth, the reptiles of the rocks, the courser of the
plain, his food ; and monotonous solitude his only com-
panionship. He is in every sense of the word a wild
man. He has no religion, no laws, no government, no
recognised authority, no patrimony, no fixed abode."
And yet in this debased condition, sunk to the lowest
depths of which we can conceive, his natural intelligence
and sagacity render him immeasurably superior to the
irrational creatures, and enable him to some extent to
press them into his service, and make even the fiercest
of them to contribute to his maintenance in the dreary
and desert land of his abode. When his usual source
of supply fails him, viz., the chase, he has recourse to
H 2
100 CHAPTER II.
honey, roots, the larvre of ants, gum, and reptiles, the
head of which latter he strikes off, and makes use of the
rest. A swarm of locusts is hailed by him with delight ;
he follows its course for days, and by firing the bushes
on which they settle at night, gathers and lays up a
store for many days. Even then his resources are not
exhausted, as will appear from the following account,
which I received from David Afrikaner, who I believe
was, on his mother's side, of Bushman descent, and from
whom I have yet several letters in which he speaks of
himself as " David Afrikaner, the old Bushman."
In many parts of Great Namaqualand where lions
abound, said David, the Bushman and the lion some-
times meet each other in the open plain, where there is
neither rock nor shrub to serve as a hiding-place, and
where no tree stands, by ascending which the Bushman
might seek to escape. If there should yet be some dis-
tance between them, the Bushman will quietly walk off
at right angles to the lion, without appearing to see him,
and as if without any intention to avoid him. Without
showing any signs of fear, he walks to the right or to
the left, in a sort of sauntering, indifferent manner ;
and the lion, observing no token of fear, nor of defence
or defiance, will seldom follow him. The escapes of the
Bushman are sometimes very marvellous. The lion and
lie seem to regard each other as in some sense com-
panions in the desert country over which both roam,
and though sometimes the latter is destroyed by the
savage and mighty foe to which he is exposed, his fre-
quent exemption from destruction is no doubt attri-
butable to that fear and dread of man which are still
" upon the beasts of the field." Something is no doubt
CHEAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 101
due to the naturally magnanimous and generous nature
of the lion, which sometimes displays itself when he is
roused neither by defiance nor attack. And further,
the exemption of the Bushman is very much owing to
the marvellous coolness he possesses, and in which he
has been trained from infancy by the desert life he leads.
Sometimes an escape from an actual meeting cannot be
effected, and all the self-possession the Bushman can
command is requisite. The lion meets him with a
subdued growl, eyeing him up and down with savage
keenness, whilst he stands perfectly motionless, and seem-
ingly fearless. In a gentle voice, he talks to the lion :
" Ons moet malkander geen kwaad doen: ons arbeid op
dczelfde vlakte:" "We must not hurt each other; we
labour on the same plain." A subdued growl follows,
and finding there is nothing to quarrel with, the lion
perhaps leaves him and walks away.
Very often, continued David, the Bushman will
make his hut within sight of a pool, or other water,
frequented by lions, so that he can always see when one
comes to drink. If, after one has drunk, he return
from the water by the same path by which he came to
it, then the Bushman knows that he has got something,
that he has been gorging himself till an irresistible
thirst has been excited, and that he is returning to finish
his meal. After Availing awhile he ventures forth, fol-
lowing upon the spoor of the lion, till at length he comes
within sight of the ferocious beast, who is too busy to
notice the noiseless approach of his follower. The Bush-
man looks for a place of concealment, either a rock or a
shrub, when, stepping forth for a moment, he utters a
loud, startling cry, " Hi!" and returns to his conceal-
102 CHAPTER II.
rnent. The lion lifts his head grandly, and looks
towards the quarter from which the sound appeared to
come ; but seeing nothing, he resumes his feast. Again
the Bushman steps forth and shouts, " Hi, hi," and
again retreats behind his concealment. Again the lion
lifts his head, and with stretched-out neck looks in all
directions ; but as all is again silent, and nothing visible,
he tears away at the carcase as before. The Bushman,
fearing that sufficient will not be left for himself, once
more steps forth and hurriedly, and in angry tone,
shouts, " Hi, hi, hi," returning to his secrecy as before.
This time, the lion begins to show symptoms of alarm ; "he
thinks there's a plot," said David, " and there he stands
with his forepaw on the carcase, and his head erect,
looking around, till his fears get the better of him ; at
length he is fairly cowed, and, dropping his tail between
his legs, he walks away in a direction opposite to that
from which the sound came." As soon as it is prudent,
the Bushman runs up and carries off as much as he can
of what his provider has left behind. Thus " He who
giveth to the beast his food," forgets not the poor
Bushman, but often provides for his wants through the
instrumentality of one of the most powerful, and most
to be feared, denizens of the wilderness.
For this reason the Bushman is very reluctant to have
him destroyed. If perchance any traveller should come
into the vicinity of the water with cattle, the Bushman
will warn him, and entreat him to move on to a safe
distance. " There is a lion about here," says he ; " keep
your oxen off; you must not injure him ; lie is our dog ;"
meaning, he catches what it would be difficult for us to
catch, and provides us with food. He regards the visit
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 103
of men with guns with anxiety, lest they should shoot
"his dog," which to hi in would he an irreparable loss.
Sometimes he learns a lesson from the baboon. He
knows that the baboon will eat nothing that is bitter or
nauseous, and that whatever is eaten by it will be edible
to himself. When, therefore, he is pressed by hunger,
he seeks out places where roots have been scratched out
of the ground by the baboon ; and as the creature will
cat only the root, breaking off and casting away the
stalks and leaves, he picks up the first of these he can
find, and taking them in his hand, as an index to the
root, he narrowly observes as he traverses the plains
and crevices of the mountains, till he finds others like
them, when he digs up the bulb and eats, or puts it in
his wallet against a time of need. One lesson learned
of the baboon in this way is never forgotten.
Yet another auxiliary he finds in the birds of the
air. He sallies forth to the open country, or to a nook
in a mountain. With his piercing eye he scans the
earth and the heavens in succession. In the dim dis-
tance he spies as a speck in the high heavens a vulture,
or other bird of prey, wheeling round in circles in the
air, and, like himself, scanning the surface of the earth
for food. He watches the bird narrowly, following it
with his eye, till perhaps, taking a few larger circles in
its descent, it alights, ieaving his haunt, he runs with
the fleetness of a hare to the spot, scares away the
vulture, and if anything is to be obtained, secures the
prize for himself. The birds, being frequently deprived
of their morsel in this way, become exceedingly crafty,
so that it is only by a great deal of ingenuity and skill
in manoeuvring, that the Bushman is able to ascertain
104 CHAPTER II.
where the spoil is. Should any animal have been killed
by a lion, tiger, or other wild beast, the vulture is the
first to discover it. But should it perceive a human
being near, it will not descend, or hover over the
spot, but fly off, "till he thinks," said David, "his
human enemy will have been tricked into a departure."
But the Bushman waits ; for when he sees the vulture
flying straight away, he regards it only as a feint to
"put him off the scent ; " he knows the bird will return,
and he is patient, meantime carefully concealing him-
self from its view. If the bird should weary him by
long delay, he resorts to another expedient. He sits
down, makes a small fire, and then covers it up with
green sticks, or dry grass, so as to make a smoke. He
then leaves his fire, and removes to some distance to a
place of concealment from which to continue his obser-
vations. The bird is now deceived. Seeing no one,
and supposing the Bushman is at a distance where the
smoke of his fire ascends, it swoops down unsuspect-
ingly, and thus reveals the place where the treasure
lies ; and almost before it can commence the feast the
Bushman rushes out, and by shouts drives away the
bird, takes his own share of the spoil, and leaves the
remnant to the discoverer.
Sad indeed is it to think of the small numbers of the
Bushmen as compared with what they once were, and
of their scattered condition, and the melancholy nature
of the life to which they have been reduced, since
men from civilised lands first settled on their shores,
less than two hundred and fifty years ago. At that
time they were very numerous, drinking at their own
fountains, killing their own game, and enjoying the
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 105
patrimony bequeathed by their fathers ; but driven
from their home by the remorseless advance of the
white man, oppressed, tyrannised over, and enslaved,
wronged and plundered in every way by his all-grasping
cupidity, what wonder that the Bushmen should be
inspired with an intense hatred to their white oppressors,
and become " the pirates of the desert," as a means of
maintaining their existence ?
" I have traversed those regions in which, according
to the testimony of the farmers, thousands once dwelt ;
but now, alas, scarcely a family is to be seen ! It is
impossible to look over these now uninhabited plains
and mountain glens without feeling the deepest melan-
choly ; while the winds, moaning in the vale, seem to
echo back the sound, ' Where are they ? ' In this
more enlightened age the farmers cannot refer to the
melancholy history of that unfortunate race without
feelings of regret ; while it is but justice to add, that
many of them made strenuous efforts, and collected
thousands of cattle and sheep, which they presented to
the neighbouring Bushmen, hoping to induce them to
settle, and live by breeding cattle ; but these efforts
always failed. It was too late ; past sufferings, and
past offences on both sides, had produced a spirit of
hatred so universal, that it was of no avail to pacify one
party, while thousands were thirsting for revenge and
plunder."*
The weapons of the Bushmen are few and simple,
but terribly effective. They consist almost exclusively
of the bow and arrows ; the latter are poisoned. And
as they are very skilful archers, having been accustomed
* Rev. R. Moffat.
10G CHAPTER II.
to the bow from their childhood, their weapons are
very much dreaded. A Hottentot belonging to the
travelling party of the Rev. J. Campbell was shot by
a Bushman in the back of the neck. Everything was
done to mitigate the pain, but the poor fellow suffered
extremely ; his whole body was greatly swollen, parti-
cularly about the head and throat. A Bushman in the
company said in the morning, that the sufferer would
die at the going down of the sun; "and," says Mr.
Campbell, " the sun had not dipped below the horizon
five minutes before he breathed his last."
Deep as were the wrongs inflicted upon the Bushman
in the times of the first European settlers, since the
Colony came into the possession of the British, it is a
relief to find that the missionary societies have not
entirely overlooked this poor afflicted race. The London
Missionary Society, especially, has sought to make some
reparation and amends by imparting to them the bless-
ings of Christianity.
Nothing less than a philanthropy of the noblest cha-
racter could have rendered either missionary societies
or missionaries willing to undertake missions exclu-
sively to Bushmen ; for at best few only could be
gathered on one spot ; and, from the wildness of their
character and habits, ultimate failure might almost
have been anticipated, even by the most sanguine. It
appears to me that the best, and perhaps the only, way
of gaining any permanent influence for good over the
Bushman is through the instrumentality of native con-
verts, against whom the prejudices and suspicions he
entertains towards the white man have no existence.
These, by showing kindness, as I am sure many of
GREAT NAMAQUALAND, AND ITS PEOPLE. 107
them do, lay employing them to take care of their
sheep and goats, and remunerating them by the payment
of a few for themselves, may inspire confidence ; and
by bringing them under the influence of the truth on
the mission station, or at its outposts, and gathering
their children into the schools, may succeed in gradually
enlightening their minds, and perhaps, eventually, bring
them to settle amongst the people of the country, and to
submit to the restraints of law and order, at the same
time leaving them a considerable measure of liberty to
hunt and roam .over the plains in accordance with
their wild tastes and habits ; till, in the course of
generations, for the process must necessarily be slow^ they
become incorporated with the tribes, Christianised and
-civilised.
CHAPTER III.
HARD AT WORK.
SUCH was the country, and such were the people
amongst whom our mission had to be prosecuted. It
was not, however, a new mission that had to be esta-
blished, other messengers of salvation having preceded
us in that region, a brief reference to whose labours
shall be made before proceeding to detail our own.
St. Paul exclaims, " the depth of the riches both
of the wisdom and knowledge of God ! How un-
searchable are His judgments, and His ways past finding
out ! " And to the Christian, perhaps, no mystery is
deeper than that from the foundation of the world so
many nations and tribes of men should have been
suffered " to walk in their own ways," and remain
unvisited by the Gospel of the grace of God. Down
to the year 1806, the natives in this part of the African
continent were allowed to continue more literally with-
out God and without hope than heathen nations
generally are, having nothing that could be called a
religious system, and only a few fragmentary traditions
of the crudest character. To this uninviting region
the two brothers, Abraham and Christian Albrecht,
fearlessly directed their steps, traversing the desert at
the most trying season of the year, suffering much from
want of water and provisions, " being never in their
HARD AT WORK. 109
lives so perplexed as to what they should eat or drink,
and rejoicing when they could get a draught of brack or
saltish water." They were the first heralds of salvation
who sounded out the word of the Lord amongst the
Great Namaquas. These noble men were missionaries
in connection with the London Missionary Society.
At a place called Warm Bath, the brothers resolved to
establish their mission ; for, though the soil on the station
is sandy and rocky, and is covered with a saline in-
crustation that crackles under the feet, the presence of
a strong thermal fountain, from which the place derives
its name, as well as smaller springs of cool water,
renders it a place of value and importance in such a
country. In addition to the liberal supply of water,
ample plains of grass stretch away to the south and
east, where any number of cattle may find sustenance ;
Avhilst the sheep and goats of the inhabitants find
pasture among the shrubs and bushes that line the
banks of the Droog Rivier, i.e., the Dry River, a
periodical stream that passes through the station. The
Warm Bath, therefore, though by no means, in some
respects, a good station, was the best that could be
found, and for this reason it was fixed upon by
the missionaries. Their first experiences were of a
chequered character, successes and discouragements
alternating with each other, till, owing to the debilitating
effects of the climate, the health of the elder brother
failed, and he was compelled to leave the station for the
colony. There he died in the Lord about ten weeks
after he had taken his leave of Great Namaqualand.
The mission was then continued for a time by Chris-
tian, the younger brother, who immediately after the
110 CHAPTER in.
death of Abraham had proceeded to Cape Town, where
he remained only a short time, and then returned to the
station with his newly-married wife, an accomplished
lady of Rotterdam, thoroughly imbued with the mis-
sionary spirit ; but shortly after resuming his labours,
owing to a quarrel between the Bondelzwaarts, the
tribe with whom he resided, and Jager Afrikaner,
the chief of a neighbouring tribe, all their hopeful
prospects were suddenly blighted. An attack from
Afrikaner, a man of great daring, heading a people of
equally desperate character, was hourly expected, and
as he vowed vengeance on the mission, the mission
family, as well as the people of the station, were kept
in continual alarm, and at length the missionary
and people abandoned the place. On the arrival of
Afrikaner, his followers, finding the station forsaken,
" commenced a rigid search for any articles which
might have been concealed for safety in the earth. One
of the chieftain's attendants strayed to the burial ground,
about a mile to the north of the station, where a few
mounds distinguished it from 'the surrounding waste as
the place of the dead. Stepping over that which he
supposed was a newly-closed grave, he heard, to his
surprise, a mysterious sound vibrate beneath." This
proceeded from Mrs. Albrecht's piano, which had been
buried in the dry sand previous to their hasty flight
from the station, but which was now brought to light
again by the ruthless marauders, who kept the wire,
wrapping it round their wrists and ankles for ornament,
but destroyed the wood-work. The native huts and
mission premises were fired, " the light of Divine truth
which had just been enkindled in those gloomy regions
HARD AT WORK. Ill
was extinguished for a season, and a peaceful Zion
reduced to a heap of ruins." This disastrous event
appears to have taken place about 1811. The mission
was resumed at Pella, on the south side of the Orange
River, and here they were joined by about five hundred
of the Warm Bath people. Whilst at this place, Mr.
Albrecht " had the ineffable joy of making peace with
Afrikaner, and seeing the standard of the Prince of
Peace reared in the very village of the man who once
'breathed out threatenings and slaughter' against not
only his fellow heathen, but against the saints of the
Most High."* But Mr. C. Albrecht was soon to rest
from his labours ; for, being under the necessity of going
to Cape Town for medical advice, he suddenly expired,
in about 1813, "leaving behind him a bright testimony
of zeal, love, and self-denial seldom equalled."
In 1825 the Rev. William Threlfall, accompanied by
two pious natives, travelled through the country in order
to ascertain the practicability of commencing a Wesleyan
mission in Great Namaqualand; but, falling into the
hands of a treacherous guide, they were led to a party
of Bushmen, who, moved by cupidity, and a desire for
plunder, fell upon them in the darkness of the night
and murdered the whole party.
In August, 1826, the "chief of the Bondelzwaarts
made a personal application to the Rev. R. Haddy,
then at the Khamies Berg Station, for a missionary,
but was unsuccessful. In August, 1830, he visited
Cape Town for the same purpose, and had an interview
with the governor. But neither did he succeed at this
time. In the year 1832, however, a missionary meet-
* Rev. E. Moffat.
112 CHAPTER III.
ing was held in the Wesleyan chapel at Simon's Town,
near Cape Town, presided over by Josiah Nisbett, Esq.,
of the Madras Civil Service, who was so much affected
by the statements then made respecting the earnest desire
of the people of Warm Bath for the Gospel, that he
promised at the meeting to give 200 towards the
establishment of a mission among them. And in case
this sum should not prove a sufficient inducement to the
Missionary Committee to undertake the work, he said
he would give another hundred; "and should I fall
short in any way," said he, " while remaining at the
Cape, I will dispose of my carriage and horses ; for I
had rather part with these, and trudge on foot, than
that Great Namaqualand should remain without the
Gospel."
The Rev. E. Cook, who was present at the meeting, at
once offered to go, if the Missionary Committee would
appoint him. They accepted the offer of Mr. Nisbett,
and in 1834 Mr. Cook commenced his labours amongst
the Bondel/waarts, in the very country where the blood
of William Threlfall, and his native companions, was
mingled with the sands of the desert. From the period
of Mr. Cook's arrival the name of Warm Bath was dis-
continued, and the name of Nisbett Bath substituted, in
honour of the gentleman who so liberally contributed to
its formation. Mr. Cook, after eight years of laborious
and successful labour (during a portion of which time he
had the valuable assistance of Mr. Joseph Tindall), was
compelled to leave the mission in failing health; and,
whilst journeying to Cape Town, expired in his travel-
ling waggon on the banks of the Orange River.
When the intelligence of Mr. Cook's death arrived
HARD AT WORK. 113
in England, the writer was steadily pursuing liis minis-
terial duties in the south-west of this country. For three
years he had already been engaged in the home work ;
but having expressed a preference for the mission field,
when first offering for the ministry, he was holding
himself in readiness for any application that might be
forwarded from the Missionary Committee. In the
month of June such an application arrived, and in the
following month the Conference was held, at which he
was appointed to South Africa.
On 27th of January, 1844, after travelling for nine
weeks and a half by sea, and eight weeks and five days
through the wilderness, as already detailed, we reached
our distant station. It was a perfect delight to us all
when our poor jaded oxen were for the last time loosened
from the yoke, and we watched them slowly moving to
the fountain at which they had often drunk, and then
to the well-known plains, where most of them had spent
the days of their bovine infancy and childhood, to enjoy
a long vacation after the ceaseless toil of their late
journey.
As was natural, we felt some degree of curiosity
before reaching the station to know what sort of a habita-
tion we should find on our arrival, a curiosity which
was not altogether satisfied Jyy the descriptions of Brother
Tindall, who had spent several years there. We were
gratified, therefore, on finding a good-sized substantial
erection, eighty-four feet in length, by twenty-two in
breadth, with upper rooms and thickly thatched roof.
The houses were built of stone, the walls very thick, and
plastered outside. The doors and window-frames were
painted green, and a neat stuccoed wall, with gates,
i
11-1 CHAPTER III.
enclosing a space in front, made the general appearance
of the premises very agreeable, especially in such a
land, and after so long a confinement to our travelling-
waggons. The newer and larger building was to be
occupied by myself and wife, the other by Mr. Macleod,
the schoolmaster, and his young family. The chapel at
the back of the mission house, with a passage only a
few feet broad intervening, was also built of stone, and
capable of holding a congregation of four or five hundred
persons.
As to the scenery, there was little in view from
the mission premises that could be dignified with
the name. Immediately in front was barren soil of
rock and sand intermixed ; a little further forward a
mass of gneiss rock, and another of mica schist ; further
still a perfect chaos of loose granite rocks, with sun-
burnt aloes rooted in their crevices, and creeping lizards
for their tenants; and through this chaos of rocks a
small footpath leading to the only spot of living green
in the neighbourhood, viz., the mission garden, which,
despite long drought and intense heat, was made to
flourish by daily irrigation. Extending the view in the
same direction, the eye met nothing but barren sand
and loose stone, with here and there hillocks of quartz-
ose rock, till, beyond, and stretching away into the
southern horizon, was an extensive plain of long grass,
parched whiter than hay by drought and heat, yet
standing erect, and waving in the wind. A little to
the west of south, and about twenty miles from the
station, in full and distinct view, a low range of moun-
tains stretched away. The view to the north was even
less attractive. At the distance of a mile, tu-o broad-
HARD AT WORK. 1,1 . r >
based, cone-shaped hills of basaltic rock, and altogether
destitute of soil, formed the background of the station ;
whilst between them wound the bed of the Dry River,
whose course is marked out by trees and bushes grow-
ing along its sides, and tending towards the south-west
as far as the eye could trace it. To the west the ground
gradually swelled so as to obstruct the view ; and though
to the east the country was more open, no object of an
attractive kind presented itself. Two camel-thorn trees,
with a very scant .supply of foliage, at upwards of a
hundred yards from the front of our house, another in a
yard at the west end, and one more, the largest of all,
at the distance of another hundred yards from that,
were all the station could boast, save the thin line of
trees and bushes along the sides of the river-bed. True,
at the distance of seven hundred yards from the front of
our dwelling, the green fig trees, and a pomegranate
tree, were very beautiful to look upon, by contrast with
the barrenness all around ; but, with the exceptions
named, the eye might scan the whole country for miles,
and not mark another tree, and scarcely a shrub.
The first thing to be done, after a little rest, was the
removal of our stores from our waggons to an upper
room, entered by a door at the east end of the house.
With the aid of the natives, whom we found very
clever in the management of heavy packages, this was
-soon accomplished. Before this was finished, the an-
nouncement was made that a cavalcade was approaching,
and, on looking out, upwards of fifty men, mounted on
oxen, were seen, marching like aline of cavalry towards
the centre of the station. These having dismounted, all
came to the house to shake us by the hand, and welcome
i 2
11(5 CHAPTER III.
us to the country. Some of them had come upwards of
a hundred and thirty miles, and had travelled two days
and nights. As soon as they heard of our arrival at the
Orange River, they set out, like their forerunners, to
assist us through, but like them they were too late. It
was very cheering, however, to have so substantial a
proof of their regard for those who were to minister
to them the Word of Life.
On reaching the station, the absence of a native
population, and the lone mission premises, was a scene
calculated to repel the goings forth of feeling we had
already experienced towards our home, and the people of
our charge, and drive all back again into the fountain of
the heart. It seemed an almost stunning fact that we
should have ploughed the waters of the ocean for so
many weeks, and that for nearly as many more we
should have traversed the burning plains and rugged
mountains of the wilderness, to reach what on our
arrival proved an almost unpeopled station. We had
often been told by Mr. Tindall during the journey what
we must expect ; but we were slow to comprehend and
realise his statements. Sorrow, deep and sad, would
certainly have filled our hearts on arriving, to behold
that desolate scene, had we not once more been told
that for three years the heavens had given no rain of
any value, and consequently the people had been scat-
tered in all directions where they could obtain grass
and water for their flocks and herds. We were in-
formed, moreover, that after rain had fallen in suffi-
cient quantity, the people would flock to the station,
and the deathly silence of the village give place to
scenes of animation and sounds of life. We were
HARD AT WORK. 117
glad to believe'it, and already we had the promise of
that happier state of things in the parties that had come
to greet our arrival and to enjoy the Sabbath services.
Just as the sun arose on the Sabbath morning,
sounds sweet and heavenly fell upon our ears and woke
us from our slumbers. The natives had assembled at
their usual prayer meeting, and, waked by their divine
songs, we felt something of the calm and heavenliness
our first parent felt when he first woke to life in Para-
dise, possessed of a perfect happiness springing from a
full sense of the Divine complacency. It was one of
those spiritually blissful seasons we sometimes expe-
rience on earth, and that most forcibly remind us of
the bliss awaiting the people of God in heaven. At
half-past eight the bell was rung, the people Avaiting
for the summons were soon assembled, and nearly filled
the chapel. I had not yet conducted a full service in
Dutch, but as for the previous six months I had
made diligent application, and had, several times, made
successful experiments on a small scale, I felt quite
disposed to make the trial now. The preliminary por-
tions of the service being past, the text was announced
(Horn. v. 1) : " Therefore being justified by faith, we
have peace with God through our Lord Jesus Christ : "
and I preached, in Methodist fashion, an extempore
sermon ; for, never having read a sermon before, I
could not be persuaded to begin now, when, if ever,
it might be deemed excusable, as I was preaching
for the first time in a foreign tongue. When the
service was closed, I received the congratulations of our
missionary party at the ease with which the language
was wielded, and I was quite inclined to feel gratified
118 CHAPTER III.
and thankful. It is not pretended that the idiom was
very correct, but the sermon was distinctly under-
stood by the native interpreter, and by him translated
into Namaqua for the benefit of those who only knew
that tongue. In the afternoon the Sabbath school was
held, though at present a very small one, at the close
of which the station bell was again rung, when Brother
Tindall conducted the service. In the evening, whilst
the natives were holding a prayer meeting in the chapel,
I preached in English to seven of our own party, and
the families of Messrs. Dixon and Morris, two Christian
traders to the country. This service was held in the
mission house ; and thus our first Sabbath in Great
Namaqualand was brought to a close. To us it was
one of new and deep interest and spiritual profit.
To many it will appear singular that the Dutch
language should be employed in conducting services
amongst the Namaquas ; but the circumstance is ex-
plained by the fact of the Colony of the Cape of Good
Hope having first been settled by the Dutch, upwards
of two hundred and twenty-five years ago. The
Dutch boers, or farmers, as the word denotes, gra-
dually went further and further into the country,
employing many of the natives in their service. These
rapidly acquired a knowledge of their masters' lan-
guage, and by degrees it spread from them to others
of their countrymen around. When, therefore, mis-
sionaries first proceeded to Great Namaqualand, it was
not difficult to find a Namaqua able to speak Dutch;
hence, as soon as the missionary had himself acquired
that language, a door of access was opened, through
the medium of an interpreter, to the tribes far beyond.
HARD AT WOEK. 119
From the first, missionaries have always preached in
those regions in Dutch, and this is the language that
for upwards of seventy years has been taught in the
mission schools of that part ; so that large numbers of
natives, for a thousand miles to the north of Cape
Town, have become acquainted with it ; in addition to
which many descendants of the Dutch and native race,
called by the uncouth name of Bastaards, born in the
Colony, -where Dutch is the only language they have
been accustomed to speak, settle down with the natives
on the mission stations, so that in nearly all the mission
congregations of Namaqualand there are a number
who understand only Dutch, while there are others who
understand only Namaqua. This renders an inter-
preter absolutely necessary, so that both parts of the
congregation may share in the benefit of the service.
When the missionary is careful to prepare his inter-
preter for each service by previous conversation, and by
giving him the outline and substance of his intended
address, and questioning him as to his knowledge of
the meaning of any unusual word he may have to
introduce, no serious error will occur ; an evil which is
also the less likely to happen in a congregation where
many know both languages just as well as, and some-
times better than, the interpreter himself. When a
missionary continues to utter several sentences together,
he runs the risk of having his instruction marred, as it
is only few Namaqua heads that can carry much matter
safely. But when the ideas are clearly and concisely
put, and the interpreter is taught to deliver them in a
similar way, it has often struck me as a very impres-
sive mode of teaching ; the matter being more condensed
120 CHAPTER III.
than when we speak in our mother tongue, and the
momentary rest between the delivery of each sentence
being a positive benefit to minds untrained and slow
of perception.
On the following day some novel duties had to be
performed. As soon as the daily morning service, which
was regularly held at eight o'clock, was finished, the
natives came to the mission house to make purchases
of various articles, which were to be paid for, not by
Her Majesty's " coin current," but by the produce of
the country. Here I may state that at the district
meeting I was directed to purchase a flock of sheep and
goats for the use of the mission family, this being the
only way of obtaining a supply of provisions. The
direction sounded somewhat startling to one, nearly the
whole of whose life had been spent in London, and in
pursuits the most opposite that can be conceived to
those now indicated. One customer, perhaps, wanted
a clasp knife and a shirt, for which he would promise to
pay a slaughter sheep ; another wanted a Dutch hymn-
book, for which he would pay a similar price ; another
a handkerchief, for which a lamb or kid just weaned
would be promised ; another a fustian jacket and
trowsers, for a young ox or heifer two years old.
But as we only required a few slaughter sheep, and
one or two milch cows, for present use, the largest
number of what was purchased consisted of ewe lambs
and goats, and heifers and young oxen of two or
three years old, this being the most economical way of
procuring a flock for the Society, and of replenishing
our team of draught oxen, as that might be necessary.
During the day, upwards of one hundred animals,
HARD AT WORK. 121
great and small, were purchased. Of the flesh of this
flock we were to eat, and of their milk to drink, as
long as we remained in that country ; and on leaving,
to hand over the whole of the surplus to my successor.
The bartering process was by no means difficult, as
the price of every article purchased by the natives, and
of every animal received in payment, was well known
by both parties ; so that not a moment was lost in un-
pleasant altercation ; but as the natives were all
strangers to us, only on a visit from afar, and in
general gave a promise instead of a bond fide animal,
the work was rendered rather tedious by having to take
down the name of the purchaser, the article purchased,
and the animal promised. In giving credit so exten-
sively, we were very much guided by Brother Tindall's
knowledge of the people, and the recommendations he
gave ; and though to us it seemed a risk, punctual if
not very prompt payment showed him to be a very safe
guide, and the natives very trusty purchasers ; whilst,
in the quality of the animals sent, the people showed
very great honour.
On the Wednesday following, the whole party, who
had come a considerable distance to meet the new mis-
sionary, and to attend the Sabbath services, took leave
of us for their distant hiimes, so that the station was
left with not many native residents. The school class
and daily service were still kept up, though, necessarily,
few attended ; and we new comers were sometimes
ready to think that because there were only few on our
arrival, they would always continue so.
Towards the end of the week we were all in excite-
ment once more. The Rev. E. Haddy, who had been
122 CHAPTER 111.
appointed to the Damara mission, was reported to have
crossed the Orange River, and to be near our station.
Ori the Saturday evening, just after tea, the two
waggons, with their long teams of oxen, were seen
descending the hill towards " the Bath," as the mission
station was generally called. Soon they were with us,
having had, like ourselves, an exceedingly hot and trying
journey.
On the Sabbath we all took part in the services of
the day, our congregations being again increased by
the arrival of many of our people from the outposts to
spend the Sabbath, and enjoy the services. In the
evening, as before, I again preached in English.
As the Rev. Messrs. Haddy and Tindall would be
under the necessity of remaining at Nisbett Bath until
the rains should fall, one of the first steps was to
arrange the part we should respectively take in con-
ducting the services : and as there was a daily morning
service, two evening services during the week, and a
public prayer meeting, besides the full services of the
Sabbath, and an English service to the mission families
on the Sabbath evening, we all found congenial occu-
pation.
Very soon after we had reached Nisbett Bath we
received a visit from David Afrikaner, a son of the
notorious Afrikaner, who, a few years previously, was
the terror of the country. David is now, and has been
for several years past, a native assistant at Blyde-
verwacht, the chief residence of that portion of the
Afrikaner tribe which separated from Jonker Afrikaner
when he went with all his people to Damaraland, and
commenced a series of freebooting expeditions against
HARD AT WORK. 123
the inhabitants of that country. David is regarded as
the father of his people, and is one of the most intelli-
gent and useful men in the circuit. Titus Afrikaner,
his elder brother, once renowned for his dauntless
courage and for his deeds of violence, resides with him
at the same place ; but is now an old man. In the ex-
pression of David's countenance there are no indications
of a warlike spirit, but, on the contrary, those of a
peaceable and retiring disposition. In his person he
was rather below the ordinary height, well nourished
generally, and his face plump for a Namaqua, his eyes
large and remarkably intelligent; and as a natural
orator he was particularly effective. One Sunday morn-
ing, during his visit, he acted as interpreter to Mr.
Haddy, and at the conclusion of the service engaged
in prayer, when sighs and tears were wrung from
nearly the whole congregation, so that the chapel was a
very Bochim ; and many were compelled to leave, that
they might give expression to their feelings.
The long-continued drought which had produced so
sad a famine in the land, and which seemed to threaten
destruction to multitudes, unless speedily terminated,
filled us with anxiety, and led us publicly to observe a
season of special prayer for rain. We remembered the
Lord God of Elijah ; and_jve believed that " the effec-
tual fervent prayer of a righteous man" still " availeth
much." Encouraged by the success of the prophet when
he prayed for rain, we too prayed, in faith, and hope,
and patience, for an abundant outpouring, that the
famine might be stayed, the earth bring forth her fruit,
and that with a replenished pasturage the people might
be able to return to the station, and come under the
124 CHAPTER III.
influence of the teachings of the sanctuary. And very
soon the Lord graciously answered the prayers of His
people, according to the promise, ' Before they call, I
will answer; and while they are yet speaking, I will
hear."
After having spent several weeks together on the
station, the brethren Haddy and Tindall, and myself,
resolved on a visit to some of the people of William
Fransman's tribe, who were living about one hundred
and twenty miles to the north-east of the " Bath," in-
tending to call at one or two other outposts on the way.
On Wednesday, March 13th, 1844, we started from
home, and, to our great joy, the same evening we had
rain in abundance, thunder muttering from afar, be-
coming more and more distinct as it approached, till it
burst in crashing peals all around us, and lightning
magnificent in the extreme. At first, the path lay to
the north of the " Bath," where we found the country
interspersed with shrubs and trees already putting out
green foliage, whilst the grass was growing in number-
less little tufts, and the aspect of nature already
changing, though so few days had elapsed since the first
rains fell.
14th. We travelled from half-past two a.m. till
seven, when we took breakfast near the side of a peri-
odical river, where the water from the late rains was
standing in pools, but, owing to the saline nature of the
soil, more salt than any we met with on our journey
from Cape Town to our station. Towards evening,
whilst passing over a barren stony part of the country,
a remarkable flower attracted the attention of Mr. John
Haddy and myself. W T e found it to be a carrion flower,
HARD AT WORK. 125
the only one we had seen since entering the country.
This genus is described in Murray's Encydcpcedia of
Geography, as " highly curious, with square, succulent,
leafless stems, and flowers resembling starfish. They
derive their appellation from their abominable odour,
which so much resembles that of putrid meat, that
insects are deceived by it, and deposit upon them their
eggs, which are hatched by the heat of the sun, when
the larvaB perish for want of animal food. The stem
has an insipid, yet cool and watery taste, and is used
by the natives for the purpose of quenching thirst ; for
which purpose it would seem Providence has designed
it, by placing it only in hot and arid tracts of country."
To the purpose of quenching thirst our men now applied
it, cutting away the rind, and eating the inner part of
the stem. The same evening we reached a place called
Wortelj one of the outposts of the station, to which
many of our people frequently resort. There were only
a few families resident on the place ; but on the sum-
mons being given, they gladly assembled in their
temporary chapel, and we held a refreshing service with
them. Here we remained for the night.
Friday, 15th. Having obtained one of our members
to act as a guide to the next outpost, we resumed our
journey in drenching rain,-of all temporal gifts the most
acceptable heaven could bestow. In our own country
we often found it to be a plague and a vexation, but in
a hot, dry, and thirsty land like this, its arrival is a
source of unspeakable joy, for it is literally life from the
dead. Never were we disposed with such fulness of
gratitude to praise God, and to say with the old Rabbi
of Magdala: " Thousands of thousands and millions of
126 CHAPTER III.
millions are bound to praise Thy name, our King,
for every drop Thou causest to descend upon us, because
Thou renderest good to the wicked." "He sendeth
rain on the just and on the unjust." This morning it fell
in such abundance, that in several places on the road the
oxen had to wade through it several inches in depth.
Soon after starting, an accident nearly happened,
that might have proved serious. The goat we had
purchased for slaughter, had been made fast on the
foot-board in front of the waggon, but had succeeded in
getting partially loose. On leaning over to secure it,
the waggon descended the steep bank of a river-bed,
when the waggon-chest, on which I was leaning, was
jolted out of its place, and had not Mr. Haddy seized
me by the ankle, I should, in all probability, soon have
been under the, wheels ; as it was, the only damage done
was to the chest, which was very much injured by the
waggon- wheels going over it. In the afternoon, whilst
travelling over an extensive plain, a shout was raised
that a serpent was near. At the moment I was walk-
ing by the side of the waggon, exercising myself with
the large whip. With this I followed the reptile, which
was escaping to a bush, on reaching which it glided into
a hole in the ground, which, however, was not suffi-
ciently large to admit its whole body. About four
inches of the tail still remained outside, to which I made
the lash of the whip fast, but so firmly did it hold that
it was impossible to draw it out by this means. I
therefore handed the stock of the whip to Mr. Tindall,
when, taking the tail of the reptile in my right hand, I
drew it out so far as to make room for the left, then
with both hands I drew it two feet further, when, letting
HARD AT WORK. 127
loose. I sprang back, and as the tail was still attached
to the lash, it was drawn out as easily as a fish from
the water. Unable to escape, and fierce with its un-
wonted treatment, its eyes glistened and protruded as
if they would start from the head, whilst the tongue was
incessantly darted forth. The contents of a fowling-
piece quickly despatched the dangerous reptile. The
enmity to the serpent race is no mere fancy, but a
reality ; and I made the resolution to bruise the head of
every serpent that I could, in the conviction that every
serpent destroyed was, probably, a human life saved.
This was a yellow serpent with a few black spots on
the body ; it was five feet in length, and not quite so
thick as my wrist. The act of taking such a serpent by
the tail was extremely perilous, and cannot be justified,
and I have always regarded it as a very great mercy
that I was not made to pay the penalty of my life. In
the course of half an hour afterwards we destroyed a
cerastes, or horned snake, so exactly of the colour of the
sand, that, but for its motion, it could scarcely have
been perceived.
Saturday, 16th. About sunset this evening we
reached 'Amas, another of the outposts of the mission.
Here Job Witbooi, the native assistant, has charge of
the people, and receives' a slight remuneration for
maintaining the services and exercising a general
supervision during the absence of the missionary.
Here, too, we have a school on week-days conducted
by one of the natives. One of my first duties on arrival
was to pay the allowance granted to these agents.
Payment it cannot be called, as articles of clothing, to
the value of three pounds, are all the assistant receives,
128 CHAPTER III.
whilst the schoolmaster receives articles of much less
value than that. What is given is scarcely more than
a mere acknowledgment for services rendered, and
would not be sufficient to retain them at their posts
were it not that the grace of Grod influences their hearts,
and makes them willing to do good for the satisfaction it
affords ; in addition to which, the fact of their position
being regarded as an honourable one, both by them-
selves and their countrymen, may have some weight
in attaching them to the service of the mission.
During the course of the evening we held service,
upwards of one hundred being present, this being, with
the exception of a few young children, and those who
were obliged to remain to take care of them, the whole
population of the village. We soon after retired to
rest in our waggon amidst the roar of mighty thunders,
and the glare of the most extraordinary lightnings I
ever witnessed.
17th, Sabbath. Some of the natives from surround-
ing parts, having had messages sent on the previous day
to inform them of our arrival, came early this morning
to enjoy the services, so that we had a considerable con-
gregation. Mr. Haddy preached in the morning ; in the
afternoon I met the members of society, and afterwards
preached. The people were deeply attentive, and some
were much affected at both services, as well as in the
class meeting. Many of the countenances bore a look
of bright intelligence, that contrasted very favourably
with the appearance of afternoon congregations in some
parts of our own country. To the people it appeared
to be a season of perfect jubilation ; they seemed greatly
delighted at the presence of three missionaries, a sight
HARD AT WORK. 129
upon which they had never before looked. And to
ourselves it was a day of great " refreshing from the
presence of the Lord."
Monday. This morning we held service again and
resumed our journey. During the morning's stage
our guide narrowly escaped treading on a large yellow
serpent, nearly a foot longer than that we had shot three
days before. Mr. John Haddy, hearing the alarm
given, sprang from the waggon and ran to the spot
where the serpent was, and nearly trod upon it before
perceiving his danger. The reptile, being alarmed, and
bent merely on escape, made no attempt to defend itself,
but took refuge in a bush. Driven from that, it made
towards an acacia tree, which it ascended, not by
coiling itself round the trunk, but, maintaining a per-
pendicular position, it worked its way slowly upwards
by a slightly serpentine movement. As the only mode
of reaching it was by a gun, one was fetched from the
waggon, when it was shot among the branches. The
frequency with which we met with these dangerous
creatures had the effect of making us keep our eyes
wide open when we walked, a duty highly advisable in
all lands, but in this, where danger so constantly beset
our path, absolutely necessary. A little further on the
road, a steenbok, a small but beautiful antelope, sprang
up from beneath a shrub, being startled by our ap-
proach, and bounded off with great grace. Its flesh is
esteemed a great delicacy.
In the afternoon the weather rapidly changed, and
we had one of the most gloomy and winterly storms
that can be imagined, and quite extraordinary in this
fiery land. The winds howled, the day became dark
K
130 CHAPTER III.
an hour before sunset, the rains fell and deluged the
country, the thunders rolled over each other in heavy
moaning sounds, except now and then, when we were
electrified by a sharp rattling volley of heaven's grand
artillery fired right over our heads. The vivid lightning
opened out in broad sheets, darted in long streams,
came in the shape of fireballs which split up into zigzag
fragments flying in all directions from their centre, or
glimmered incessantly all round the horizon, especially
to the north and east, whilst towards the south and
west the display was comparatively trifling, from which
we inferred that no storm was raging and, probably,
little rain falling at the Bath. Once or twice we lost
our way, but eventually got into the right path. It
was densely dark when we outspanned, and our men
had great difficulty in getting a fire. At length they
succeeded, and whilst we were standing around watch-
* O
ing for the boiling of the kettle, we were surprised to
hear a gun discharged in the distance, three or four
times in succession ; for what purpose we could only
imagine, but the sound was ominous in such a place.
li'th. At half-past four a.m. we resumed our jour-
ney, and during the day reached the most distant out-
post, called Nieuwe Fontein. Here we found Johannes
Gagup, our native teacher, and about two hundred of
"William Fransman's tribe settled with him. The
people had selected a small valley for their abode, a
portion of which Avas enclosed as garden -ground, and
under cultivation, whilst their small houses of reed mats
were pitched in different parts of the valley, just as the
fancy of the owners had dictated. There were a con-
siderable number of members present, all of whom were
HARD AT WORK. 131
met by Mr. Tinclall and myself, who spent some time
in endeavouring to ascertain the religious condition of
each. Whilst some appeared to be in a satisfactory
state, on the whole, there did not seem to be much
depth in their Christian experience ; which is not
to be wondered at, considering their opportunities, and
the necessity they are under of being confined
almost exclusively to the spiritual instruction of their
native teacher ; for these, belonging to another tribe,
never can settle on the mission station and receive the
same instruction as those who have that privilege.
Some had fallen into sin, and discipline had to be
enforced ; but, notwithstanding some drawbacks, it was
delightful to find so many under a real religious influence,
sincerely endeavouring to walk according to the Gospel.
For want of a chapel, Mr. Tindall and myself assembled
the members in two large circles under the shade of
some large mimosa trees, thus investing our class-
meetings with an air of romance quite new to me. At
night, again, the heavens gathered blackness, the rain
fell heavily, and the lightnings flashed and the thunders
rolled with fearful grandeur. We could not but feel
that our waggon, having so much iron about it, was
scarcely a refuge, and that we were entirely dependent
upon the God of the storm for protection.
Wednesday, 20th. This morning the water was
running in rills down the slopes of the small valley,
though the storm had ceased, the clouds disappeared, and
the sun was shining in full splendour. As the morning
advanced, and the ground dried under the warmth of
the sun, the signal was again given for the people to
assemble, as we intended returning in the afternoon.
K2
132 CHAPTER III.
The horn of an antelope (the koodoo) was taken by an
adept in the art, and blown with a strong, steady stream of
breath. This produced a low, monotonous sound, which
soon found its way to the extremity of the village ; and
as the voice of the trumpet sounded long, and waxed
louder and louder, the population were seen tending
towards the trees beneath the shade of which the ser-
vice was to be held. The congregation was good, the
whole of the inhabitants being there, save those who
had gone to the pasturage with their sheep and goats,
and one left in some of the houses where there were sick
to tend, or where there was a little provision to guard
against the depredations of those inveterate robbers,
their dogs. We were much interested with our visit,
and the people were much cheered, and will feel the
beneficial stimulus far longer than those whose privi-
leges abound, and who are always depending on excite-
ments from without to preserve them in vital energy.
After a simple repast of roast mutton, bread, and water,
eaten beneath the shade of a mimosa tree, we bade
them farewell, and turned our faces homeward for our
journey of one hundred and twenty miles.
The river Ky' Kaap, which was a mere river bed
when we crossed it two days before, was now, owing to
the recent rains, a broad stream with strong current.
When w r e passed before, the silence of death reigned ;
now the rocks and river were alive with geese and other
wild water-fowl.
On the next morning early, as we travelled, we saw
in the distance a number of wild animals that we could
not distinctly make out. " What if they should be an
army of lions ? " said Mr. Haddy. As we neared them
HARD AT WORK. 133
they turned out to be something more tolerable, being
nothing more than a number of harmless and beau-
tiful springboks, one of the most elegant of the antelope
species.
On Saturday, March 23rd, after hard travelling, we
reached the mission house again, unfeigneclly thankful
for our own preservation, and for that of our families
during our absence. Although for a week in succession,
when on the journey, we had storms of thunder and
lightning, and frequent rains, only a few showers had
fallen in the immediate vicinity of the station ; but on
the day of our departure, the 13th, a lightning stroke
severed off the principal limb of a large mimosa tree
standing very near the west end of the mission house,
when two young men, standing at the open door of the
kitchen, narrowly escaped, one of them being struck to
the kitchen floor.
Hitherto the four mission families had been good
company for each other. But now the rains having
fallen, and the pools by the way having been filled, the
Brethren Haddy and Tindall recommenced their journey
to Damaraland, having in prospect a distance of six
hundred miles.
About this time charges of a startling nature were
brought against one of our people, the chiefs prin-
cipal counsellor, and the interpreter usually employed
by the missionaries ; charges of gross immorality, com-
mitted when the station was left without a missionary.
The sin was now brought to light, and proved by
decisive evidence. It was to me more distressing than
I can express, for I felt it necessary, in order to make
a suitable impression on his own mind, and on the
134 CHAPTER III.
minds of the people, as to the enormity of the sin,
to impose a severe penalty, that of expulsion from
membership with the church. Feeling my responsi-
bility to the Great Head of the Church, I could not
conscientiously modify the sentence. To my unspeak-
able joy, it soon appeared that the effect on his own
mind was most salutary, and that his conduct was
that of a true mourner. On the Sunday following,
instead of taking his usual position by the side of the
missionary, or of venturing to mingle with the congre-
gation as an ordinary hearer, he seated himself in the
farthest part of the building, apart from every one
else, his appearance indicating deep dejection and peni-
tential distress. At half-past six a.m., on the Monday
following, he came with a broken heart to acknowledge
his guilt. His eyes were swollen and red with weeping,
and an expression of grief was deeply depicted on his
countenance. He said that since his expulsion he had
not been able either to eat or sleep ; that he very much
wished to confess his crime on the Sunday night, for he
was wretched, and felt that he could have no rest till
he had done so. Previous to the Sunday services he
said he had resolved to leave the place, and take his
family to some distance from the station, but he was
much affected by the services of the day ; and on
entering the chapel, he said, " the place seemed so
holy, and the society so holy," that he was ashamed
to be there, and had, through a deep sense of his un-
worthiness, gone to a distant part of the chapel. He
added, that under the preaching his feelings were more
than he could bear ; and he had come to the determi-
nation not to leave the place, but to remain and prove
HARD AT WORK.. 135
the reality of his penitence. " And," said he, " were
I to depart from the station, I should deprive all my
family of the benefit of the instructions of the missionary ;
and I feel God would require their souls at my hand."
He " went softly " about the village, with sorrowful
countenance and dejected mien, thus humbling himself
in the sight of men, as well as of God. Though his fall
has been awfully deep, and I have thought of it with
weeping, yet now that I see the depth of his repentance
I am filled with comfort and am " exceeding joyful,"
because I hope his present excision from the church may
have a sanctifying effect and may result in the salvation
of his soul, as well as lead to more watchfulness
and diligence on the part of the members generally.
The punishment seems to have brought home to him
the full sense of his guilt ; and sometimes he was so
distressed that, fearing lest he should be " swallowed up
of overmuch sorrow," I felt it needful to administer
words of solace, pointing him to the Lamb of God as
the sacrifice for sin, and cheering him with the hope, in
cine season, of readmission into the church. This man
was always afterwards a source of joy to me, and a
faithful and attached friend.
Messrs. Haddy and Tindall being now on their journey
to Damaraland, the entire responsibility of the services,
which they had hitherto, shared, now devolved upon
myself, still a novice in the language, and all the other
affairs of the station required constant attention. Each
morning throughout the week the station bell was rung
for service, when the congregation at once assembled ;
a hymn was sung, followed by the reading and exposi-
tion of a portion of Scripture and prayer. The service
136 CHAPTER III.
was little more than half an hour in length, and
might be regarded as a sort of family prayer for the
whole population. Shortly after this service had closed
the bell again rang for school, which assembled at
nine o'clock and continued till near twelve, when,
during the prevalence of drought, and almost of famine,
that afflicted the land for three months after our arrival,
3Ir. Macleod observed that, immediately on being
liberated from school, the children all ran to the bed of
the Droog River, instead of to their homes ; and on
inquiry he learned that they ran thither to ascend the
acacia and other trees, that they might pick off the gum
exuding from them, and endeavour to satisfy the
O ' /
cravings of hunger ; for at that time this was all they
had as the mid-day meal. School was again held from
two till four, and was always commenced with a hymn
and prayer. On several afternoons of the week a sewing
school for girls was held by Mrs. Macleod, assisted by
"Mrs. Ridsdale. Nearly every evening in the week was
occupied with preaching, prayer meeting, or class,
meetings ; whilst on the Sabbath a prayer meeting at
sunrise, preaching at nine, Sunday school and preach-
ing in the afternoon, and prayer meeting at night, fully
occupied the day.
In order to render the daily morning service as
interesting and instructive as possible, I commenced
the regular reading of the New Testament, accompanied
with expository remarks where necessary, and bringing
home its teachings to the heart and conscience as occa-
sion offered. \Vhen the subject was a miracle or
other incident, it was rendered as vivid as I could make
it, in order to arrest attention, and a few words were
HARD AT WORK. 137
added by way of inculcating the lessons to be learned.
On commencing an Epistle, the writer, those to whom
he wrote, the place of their abode, and the circumstances
in which they were placed at the time, were all men-
tioned, and often referred to in the course of the
reading, to keep them distinctly before the mind ; and in
this way all the teaching of a doctrinal, experimental,
and practical character contained in the New Testament
was brought successively before them to their great
profit and delight. By degrees they increased in their
attendance, and at length gathered in large numbers,
manifesting the deepest interest in all that was said.
In order to make the school as attractive as possible,
at certain intervals the children were put through
various evolutions, and illustrations by means of the
black board and chalk were given, which tended to
break the monotony of school instruction as usually
practised at that date. The consequence was that nearly
every child in the place was constantly at school.
Although the people were exceedingly fond of music,
the congregational singing was extremely bad, many
old tunes being scarcely recognisable as sung by the
natives. In order, as far as practicable, to remedy this,
I announced that henceforth, on two evenings of the
week, we should devote an hour or two to learning
new tunes. I found it utterly useless to attempt to
correct the old ones, which would have been as im-
possible as to turn the course of the Orange River in
time of flood. Their bad habits of twisting and twirling
were so immovably fixed, that, after repeated attempts
and failures,finding that the old tunes would only prove a
source of continual vexation, I felt convinced that the
138 CHAPTER III.
only way to succeed was by introducing new tunes alto-
gether. As they were very anxious to learn, u the
service of song " became very popular, and when many
Avere located on the station, the chapel was much too
small for those who wished to attend. On these occa-
sions the name of the new tune was announced, for as
their horses and oxen all had names, so, I told them, had
all our tunes. Under my direction the whole congre-
gation would first pronounce it syllable by syllable, and
then at full length. I used then to play it on my flute,
pointing out the peculiarities occurring in any part, the
people meantime listening with attention. I would
then lay aside the flute, and myself, and Mr. Macleod,
and our wives, would sing it through a few times,
directing attention to any prolonged or to any quicker
notes or other peculiarity. After this the whole congre-
gation would make their first attempt under our
guidance, and at any hitch that occurred they were
instantly stopped, the error pointed out, and illustrated
Avhere it could be, when all began again. The process
was sometimes tedious, and it required considerable
patience and perseverance to continue the practising
evenings, as I did, for nearly two years ; but at length
a large number of excellent tunes were correctly
acquired, and sung often with such thrilling effect that
the tears have involuntarily flowed from the eyes of
preacher and people, and a softening emotion has been
produced that was an admirable preparation for the minis-
tration and hearing of the word. The effect on all who
came to the station from afar was wonderful. As if abso-
lutely overpowered, the head would drop, irrepressible
sobs find vent, the bosom heave heavily, and in many
HARD AT WOKK.
instances they would sink down on the floor in a swoon ;
vet this occasioned little disturbance to the service, for
j
our people, who had become familiar with such occur-
rences, would quietly bear them to the outside of the
building, and lay them down, when, by exposure to the
air, they would in time recover themselves.
The people now began gradually to come to the
station from the distant outposts, so that our congre-
gations Avere visibly increased Sabbath after Sabbath ;
the grass gathered strength, and grew in places which
once seemed as if none had been since the creation ;
flowers bloomed on every hand, " thanksgiving " was
felt in our hearts, "and the voice of melody" was on
our lips. We were in hopes of soon seeing a large
number of the tribe collected together upon the place,
and brought under the blessed influences of the Gospel ;
and it appeared as if the chief, often a source of sore
trouble and anxiety to my predecessor, was quite dis-
posed to help forward the interests of the mission, and
to retain the people under the influence of the prin-
cipal station as long as possible ; in order to which,
he sent messengers in all directions to say that when
they came to the Bath, they could only be allowed to
bring as many milch cows and slaughter sheep as were
necessary, leaving the rest of their flocks and herds at
their cattle-posts ; a direction the reasonableness of
which was at once seen by the people. By this means
the grazing in the neighbourhood of the station was
rendered available for a loner time.
O
One Sunday during the services the congregation
showed an unusual earnestness of attention, and on the
next day I was gratified to find that some had been
140 CHAPTER ITI.
Beneficially impressed with the truths preached. At the
Monday evening class meeting I was thankful to see
deep feeling manifest itself in some of the members, who
could not repress their sobs and tears.
On May 17th, 1844, I started about sunrise for
Blydeverwachting, the residence of a portion of the
Afrikaner tribe. This was my first journey on horse-
back to any of the outposts. Three horses were necessary,
viz., one for the missionary, one for his guide, and
another to carry our karosses or mantles, and whatever
we should require during the journey. Among our
requisites were included a small supply of tea and sugar,
slices of bread baked hard and crisp to keep it from
spoiling, some well-cooked mutton, a tin drinking mug,
and a small copper kettle. My good wife felt some-
thing of her solitude, though she found an estimable
neighbour in Mrs. Macleod, the wife of our school-
master ; and in some notes of the parting, made as soon
as I was gone, she says, " I continued looking after you
yesterday morning till the rising sun dazzled, and the
tears dimmed my eyes, so that I could see you no
longer."
Soon after leaving the station a large herd of spring-
boks appeared, playing their innocent gambols, and
occasionally bounding six or eight feet perpendicularly
into the air with astonishing lightness and agility. A
lew miles further on we saw another herd, grazing and
lying at rest, two or three only leaving the others to
take an inquisitive look at us, after which they bounded
across our path, some distance in front, to get on our lee
side, when, snuffing up the scent of the travellers, they
scampered back to the herd ; the elegance of their
HARD AT WORK. 141
marking, and the grace of their motions, filling me with
admiration. When we had travelled about eighteen
miles, and were in a vast plain, covered with long
Bushman grass, two full-grown ostriches were seen some
distance ahead of us, running swiftly from north to
south. At the same time four others, running as swiftly
from the south towards the north, met them just in the
line of our path, which lay from west to east. On
meeting, all ran with surprising swiftness to our left
again, wheeled about, and stood at no great distance
gazing at us, and affording us a good opportunity of gaz-
ing at them in return. " Now, Jacob," said I to the man
who accompanied me, " away." We gave our horses
the bridle, and, needing no other stimulus, they stretched
themselves out like racers over the plain ; but the giant
birds " lifted themselves on high ; " their short wings
vibrated like paddles at their sides, their long legs
moved with amazing velocity, and, " scorning the horse
and his rider," they soon left us far behind. The
weather being cool, and it being within a month of mid-
winter in this hemisphere, the ostrich is at its fleetest
and strongest, and is never hunted in this way at this
season. Another incident almost immediately occurred.
" Jack," the horse ridden by my man, trod on the tail of
a puff adder, and escaped a bite only by the rapidity of
his motion. The man witlf the pack horse being in
front of me, I saw " Jack's " hoof go on the tail, and the
reptile open its jaws to strike with its fangs, but, being
in a smart canter at the time, the horse escaped. We
dismounted, however, and killed the dangerous reptile,
which, though as to its general appearance sufficiently
repulsive, proved, on a nearer inspection, to be really
142 CHAPTER III.
beautiful, the ground colouring being a soft velvet black,
exquisitely marked with faint zigzag streaks of white
and green. Just after sunset, or about five p.m.,
having reached the Aam's River, we resolved to take up
our lodgings for the night at the foot of a large camel-
thorn tree. Jacob soon made a fire and put on our
small travelling-kettle, which served the purpose of tea-
pot as well ; and although the tea was served in primitive
style, it was, perhaps, as much enjoyed after our ride
of fifty miles, as if served in the halls of princes.
As the evening advanced all was made ready for the
night. Our karosses were loosened from the pack-saddle
arid spread upon the sand ; our saddles, propped up at the
low end by a stone, formed our pillow ; and then having
commended ourselves to the protection of the Almighty,
AVC wrapped our karosses round us in this region of
tigers and other wild beasts, without any weapons, but
without the least alarm. It was only half-past seven
when we lay down, but soon my man, weary with the
journey, was fast asleep. But being unused to such
early hours, I lay wakeful till past ten o'clock, scarcely
able to realise that I was passing the first night I had
ever slept without a shelter in the wilds of Africa
beneath a camel-thorn tree, with the sand for my bed,
my saddle for my pillow, and wild beasts and serpents
for my neighbours ; and that I was doing this with
entire freedom from any kind of apprehension, and from
any degree of discomfort. For a long time, without a
sound to break the profound silence, as I lay with my
feet to the south, I watched the stars as they appeared
slowly to move from east to west, from branch to branch
of the camel-thorn tree, the branch immediately above
HARD AT WORK. 143
serving as my meridian line, till unconsciously a wake-
less slumber stole over me, from which I was only roused
by my man bringing our horses early next morning.
With Jacob's pillow, that I had had Jacob's dream !
As the weather was cool, we first breakfasted beneath
our tree, and then resumed our journey. Just at
starting a large black snake, six feet in length, slowly
crossed our path, and whilst we were seeking for stones
it made for a small acacia tree, which it ascended
slowly. As there were no missiles at hand, there we
were obliged to leave it, our only weapons being our
.samboks, or riding whips, which were altogether un-
suitable. Shortly after this we killed a cerastes, or
horned snake. For the last fourteen miles our path
lay parallel with a range of mountains to our left, which
continue running on in an easterly direction till they
lock into another range, running across from north to
south. In a valley near the point of junction of these
two ranges lies Blydeverwachting. The noble range
with table top rising precipitously at the back of the
village, and the equally fine mountain scenery on the
left, the unusually large mimosas that stand here and
there, and the winding line of shrubs and trees that
margin the course of a periodical river running along
the base of the mountains from north to south, unite to
give a more striking and picturesque appearance to this
place than is possessed by any other in the circuit.
David Afrikaner was the first to offer his salutation,
many others followed, and by all we were most joyfully
welcomed.
David is a son of old Afrikaner, who had no other
name till baptized by the Rev. Mr. Ebner, of the London
144 GHAPTEli III.
Missionary Society, when he was called Adam Afrikaner.
He had many sons, a list of whom, according to their
age, I obtained from one of them in 1846. Six of these
sons were living, and were in this place at the time of
my visit. Most of them were truly converted men, and
the rest were members of the church, though not so
prominent in their religious character, or in their
position in the church, as the others. But what a
mighty change has the Gospel effected in this family !
At one time they were the terror of this part of South
Africa, robbery and plunder being the order of the day ;
now they are bringing forth " the peaceable fruits of
righteousness," and peace has for many years prevailed
among these tribes, who were at one time always en-
gaged in predatory warfare. David was now the native
teacher to his own people, having been appointed by the
Rev. Mr. Cook. Mr. Cook says of him in his journal,
" He is a very interesting and, I trust, a truly pious man ;
a striking instance of the power of grace. He has been
kept in the fear of God amidst a band of robbers and
murderers for nearly twenty years, without any one to
give him counsel and encouragement." From a state-
ment he sent me in writing, it appears that he had
learnt to read writing from a letter he had seen written
by a Dutch Boer, and which had become his own, by
studiously copying the letters till they became perfectly
familiar. I am now in possession of several letters
addressed by him to myself, and also an account of a
portion of his life, in which latter he has ruled lines for
himself, and written with great neatness, and with the
letters, both capitals and small, exceedingly well formed.
From this account he appears to have heard the AVord,
HARD AT WORK. 145
in the first instance, from some person who had fled to
that part of the country, and whom he calls a refugee.
" Afterwards," says he, " this man went to the Bush-
men, by whom he was murdered. But though I heard
the Word from him, I gave no serious attention to it."
He next heard the Word of God from Mr. Albrecht.
" But," he adds, u though I heard the Word from Mr.
Albrecht, I did not trouble myself about it. Still I had
a love for the school." Mr. Albrecht, who, it appears,
was for a short time with the Afrikaners, then left them
for Warm Bath, to reside among the Bondelzwaarts.
7 O
This was a great loss and disappointment to David, and
" when the missionaries left us, then I began to pray,
and languished to hear the Word, where the Word was
not to be had." It appears that even whilst he was
without a missionary the Spirit of the Lord was strongly
striving with him ; li for," says he, " I felt that I was
a sinner ; but that God had a great love for sinners, and
that Jesus Christ had died for me through the same
love. I looked upon myself as perishing without God.
I began to wrestle with my sins, and I longed to hear
the Word ; but I did not hear the Word, for I had no
missionary. But afterwards I felt that I was delivered
from my sins. Then I had a longing desire to be
baptized and to stand steadfast. Then I met with Rev.
Mr. Ebner ; at that time I was called Hendrik, the
godless name " (alluding to his being still a heathen).
" Then was I baptized, and rejoiced to be baptized in
His name ; then was I called David. After this Mr.
Ebner and Mr. Moffat left us." And poor David was
left alone to struggle with sin in himself, and sin all
around, amidst plunderings and fightings with the neigh-
L
146 CHAPTER III.
bouring tribes, without any human guide or counsel ;
vet by the help of almighty grace he and a few others
kept the lamp of God alive during all those dreary
years that elapsed between the removal of the London
Missionary Society's missionaries and the establishment
of the Wesley an Mission, upwards of twenty years. As
soon as David heard of this latter joyful event, he opened
communications with Mr. Cook, my predecessor, by
whom Blydeverwachting was taken up as an outpost of
the Nisbett Bath Circuit, and a monthly visit to the
Afrikaners established, to the great joy of David and
others who were like-minded.
Having arrived about two p.m. , the remaining part of
the day was spent in conversing with David on the state
of the people generally, and in conducting a service in
the evening with all on the place. The next day was the
Sabbath, when I was awaked by the songs of our people
at their usual morning prayer meeting. In the morning
I preached from Matt, xviii. 20 to a large congregation,
for the intelligence of my arrival had been conveyed by
horsemen to the people in the neighbouring places, and
they had come in considerable numbers to attend the
services of the day. A deep and solemn attention was
given, and many were much affected. In the afternoon
I met all the members in class, forty-five in number,
several of whom wept much ; and as the children of the
Sunday school had not yet left, I paid them a brief
visit. At night again the people assembled in great
force, w r hen I preached from Amos iv. 12.
On the Monday, we again held service at about
eight o'clock, and as the weather happened to be rather
wet, and it would be unsafe to sleep on the ground, we
HARD AT WORK. 14V
determined on riding to the Bath, a distance of seventy-
eight miles, that same day. Our horses, braced by the
cold weather, seemed to rejoice in the journey ; and as
we cantered along at a smart pace, about an hour
after leaving, a cry of warning was raised by my guide,
" Stop ! stop ! there lies a spitting serpent !" and there
he lay in a rut on my right, but just in advance of my
horse, with raised head, glistening eyes, and tongue
darting out. I reined my horse out of the path to
the left, and both of us dismounting, we resolved on
killing the reptile. Fleeing to a euphorbia, it coiled
itself round the root, when a stone, thrown with vio-
lence by my man, nearly severed it in two. Thinking it
must be killed, on approaching to untwist and measure
it, my man cried, " Stop, Sir, the head's yet alive ;" and
so I found, for, when within three or four yards, it
angrily separated the stems of the bush with its head,
and ejected its poison at me ; but being weakened by
the wound it had received, the venom fell at my feet.
This, I believe, is the only serpent that has the faculty
of ejecting its poison. It is regarded by the natives as
very deadly. Were the ejected poison to fall on a fresh
cnt, so as to mingle with the blood, and to be taken up
into the circulation, it would no doubt prove fatal ;
though, were it to fall on the unabraded skin of the hand,
or other part of the body, X suppose no injurious effect
would follow, if it were at once removed. The man con-
tinued throwing till a stone struck its raised head, when
it fell dead at once. Untwisting and laying it out full
length, I found it rather more than five feet in length.
An hour afterwards, as we rode along, I saw a large
yellow snake in a bush close to the left-hand side of the
L2
148 CHAFFER III.
path, its head flattened, and hissing angrily ; but my
horse was so near that I had no time to pull up, and
in the next moment my foot in the left stirrup passed
close above its angry head. The danger over, I called
to the man, who was in advance, and once more we
dismounted, with true enmity in our hearts, to bruise
the serpent's head. The reptile disentangled itself from
the bush, and was coursing its way over the sand, when
a stone hurled by Jacob struck the ground and covered
it with a shower of sand. The reptile, turning to face
us, rose proudly into an erect position, with not more
than a foot of its tail on the ground, scowling and
hissing as it slowly advanced. But having no weapon,
and missiles being very scarce, we kept at a few yards'
distance ; when, turning, and taking to the ground
again, to our mortification it glided into a hole beneath
some bushes, and so escaped unscathed.
All went well on the journey till within about thirty
miles of home, when, the sun being set, the night darkened
so rapidly that we lost all trace of our way. The waggon
path is, in general, well marked and indented ; but we
had now reached a part of the road where the soil was
hard and gravelly, and where the heaviest waggon left
no trace behind. We dismounted, went on our hands
and knees, and felt the ground, to discover any indenta-
tions of waggon wheels, but found none. "\Ve then
mounted again, journeying, as we thought, in the
general direction of home, till our horses got entangled
in bushes, and stumbled into holes, or against the sides
of hillocks, in such a way as to convince us that we were
altogether wrong. After fumbling about for a tedious
time in vain, we had to make up our minds to spend
HARD AT WORK. 149
the long night, with ten hours of darkness, on the plain.
Many things conspired to make this disagreeable. AVe
had seen and killed so many dangerous serpents on our
journey out and home, that it was not pleasant to think
of lying on the plain at all ; the fresh spoor or foot-
marks of a tiger we had also passed but two hours
previously, and we were not wishful to fall in with such
company, especially as one of our class-leaders at
Blydeverwachting had been seized by one of these fierce
beasts, two or three weeks previously, and severely
bitten in the back, narrowly escaping with his life:
added to which, we were wet with the rain that had
fallen, our karosses were wet, the long grass and the
ground were also wet. But as there was no alternative,
we made loose and spread our karosses ; then, kneeling
down, I commended myself and guide to the preserva-
tion of our ever-present God, and. lay down, rather to
pass the hours of darkness that remained than to sleep.
Sleep, indeed, it was almost impossible to get in
consequence of the wet and cold, in addition to which,
ever and anon, the shrill yell of the jackal would rend
the silence of the desert, sometimes near at hand,
answered by others far distant over the plains. At
intervals during the night the heavy howl of the wolf
was heard, though afar. For two or three hours in
succession the profoundest silence reigned over the vast
desert, a silence so oppressive that it seemed as if by its
very weight it would press one into the earth. After
.such a silence dreary was it indeed to hear a muffled,
melancholy, ghostly moan, come floating on the air of
the desert ; and then, after a momentary pause, another
and yet another, each weaker and weaker, just like
150 CHAPTER III.
the gradually failing groans of dying ghosts ! Another
interval of intense silence elapsed, and then the same
dismal sounds, the same in number, and of diminishing
intensity, as before, were repeated. Curiosity could
brook no further delay, so breaking the silence myself,
"Jacob," said I, "what is that?" "0," said he,
" that's the ostrich : it makes that noise to frighten the
jackals away from its young !" That anything earthly
could produce so dismal a sound seemed incredible ; but
the explanation was satisfactory, and I was relieved.
At length, after ten long hours of darkness, the day
began to break, and at the earliest possible moment the
man was despatched for the horses, and following upon
their hoof-marks in the sand as rapidly as the feeble light
would allo\v, he soon found and brought them. Stiff and
cold with our long night's lodging in the wet grass, we
mounted our steeds, found the path about a mile to the
left, sped away with cheerful hearts, reached home at
about nine, and forgot the troubles of the past in the
pleasure of their rehearsal.
I found on my arrival that the services on the station
had been regularly maintained by Mr. Macleod, and
that all was in a satisfactory state. Things around the
"metropolis," as we playfully called it, gradually
assumed an improved appearance, the grass gathering
strength day by day, and the resident population
steadily increasing. Every week parties of people from
distant places visited the station, expressly for the
purpose of enjoying the services of the Sabbath. Men
and women mounted on horses or oxen, which were
ridden by the women according to the custom of the
country in mostunlady-like fashion, the men carrying their
HARD AT WORK. 151
muskets for defence against wild beasts if necessary, or
for aggression should any game appear, might be seen
Saturday after Saturday entering the village in quite a
picturesque cavalcade ; whilst the rear of the novel
squadron would generally be brought up by a line of
waggons containing the old, young, and feeble, each
drawn by a long team of various-coloured oxen. As soon
as they had alighted, all tended to the mission house as
a centre to announce their arrival and salute the mis-
sionary. In this way our Sunday congregations were
often large when we had only a few residents. It was
u usual thing to see many deeply affected under the
Word, though their feelings were generally kept under
subjection, so that their tears flowed in silence. Much
interest was awakened by a plan of which I gave
notice, and which to them was quite new, of devoting a
portion of the Sabbath afternoon to the purpose of
interrogating them on the sermon delivered in the
morning ; a plan which I found particularly useful in
eliciting whatever information they did possess, and in
obliging them to give a closer attention to the sermons
they heard, as they often voluntarily confessed. At
the same time it operated beneficially upon myself,
by showing me the necessity of so preaching as to
make every sermon as tangible as possible to their
untrained minds. Maiiy signs of good manifested
themselves, and under tins treatment on the Sabbath,
as well as the daily morning exposition of Scripture,
their improvement in religious knowledge was very
perceptible.
May 24th. We were suddenly visited by a tremendous
storm, without warning from the usual premonitions.
1")2 CHAPTER III.
Our congregation was assembled at evening service,
when suddenly such a battering on the reed roof of the
chapel took place as startled us all. Hailstones as
large as a walnut, and some as large as a fowl's egg,
falling upon the thatch, beat out such a dust that, despite
the candles, I could scarcely see the people in front of
me. Hearing, too, being impossible, the meeting was
broken up. Our river came pouring down, rushing
over the rocks, and sounding as if the sea had broken
over the land ; whilst none could venture out of the chapel
because of the great hail. From the appearance of the
country, with white hail everywhere, one might have
imagined himself, pro tern., in the polar regions ; but
after continuing upwards of an hour, the hail ceased,
and was succeeded by deluging rains for nearly the
whole night, preventing all from the other side of the
river from returning home that night. Roaring winds
and a shaking house made us feel that we were in the
midst of a tornado.
On June 20th I again visited Blydeverwachting in
the waggon, and was accompanied by my wife, this being
her first visit. The scenery in the neighbourhood of the
village struck her as it had me ; whilst a sight of so many
members of the church of the once notorious Afrikaner
family was to her one of deep interest and delight.
On the Sabbath I preached in the morning and afternoon
to attentive congregations of about a hundred and fifty
people. In the morning service many literally u lifted
up their voice and wept," and I hope their feelings may
result in some practical good. Morning and evening a
prayer meeting was held by the natives themselves.
On the Monday we went to Jerusalem, the former
HARD AT WOilK. I"),'}
residence of this people, at a distance of eight or nine
miles, taking with us David Afrikaner ; his wife and others
following our waggon on oxback. I directed David to
draw up our waggon under the tree beneath whose shade
the Rev. R. Moffat's mat house formerly stood, which
he describes in his Missionary Labours and Scenes in
Southern Africa, as having been so expeditiously built
by the native women ; and I felt it an honour to stand
and pray with the people gathered around me under the
same tree where the noble Moffat had once lived so self-
denying a life. It was interesting to gaze on any-
thing that reminded one of former missionary toil, and
even on the mass of granite on which Mr. Moffat some-
times reclined to soothe or animate his mind by playing
on his violin. Returning to Blydeverwachting in the
evening, I met the members of society in their class
meeting, inquiring into the spiritual state of each.
During our stay, which continued nearly a week, a
service for the reading and exposition of the Scriptures
and prayer was held each morning, and each evening
there was either a public meeting or a meeting of church
members ; and whilst we remained, everything relating
to the society and school came under review, and all
the members were met and examined as to their religious
state. Mrs. R. was also usefully occupied in holding
meetings with the women to instruct them in household
and relative duties, and also in exhorting them to a
more decent manner of cloth in themselves a kind of
O
instruction they much needed, but which could scarcely
be given except by the wife of a missionary. It was
pleasing to find that these instructions were not in vain,
for almost immediately many of the females set to work
154 CHAPTER III.
to prepare more decent dresses than their unseemly
karosses. Our departure was much regretted by the
people, and it appears that a rather singular expedient
had been devised by some of the ladies to keep us a
little longer. David's wife, and the wife of one of his
brothers, had determined on driving away our oxen to a
distance, that by the difficulty of finding them our stay
might be protracted. But on consulting the wife of
another of David's brothers, who refused to consent,
because she thought it wrong, the scheme was revealed
and frustrated.
On the 28th of June we safely reached home again,
and found all in good order under the excellent care of
3Ir. Macleod.
Having sent to the Khamies Berg Mission Station,
about two hundred miles from the Bath, for a supply of
corn for Mr. Haddy in Damaraland, and it having safely
arrived thus far, I was glad to obtain some help from
the natives in order to send it the remaining distance of
five or six hundred miles. It was gratifying to find
that several of the people were willing to lend what was
necessary in order to its safe transit. A waggon was
lent by Jan Ortman. As I could not spare sufficient
waggon-gear, the rest was lent by the chief; whilst four
*oxen of the team were lent by J. Jager, and ten others
by Jantje April. As both oxen and waggon were
likely to incur much risk and injury by such a journey,
it showed a good deal of the spirit of sacrifice on the
part of the people ; for waggons and waggon-gear
are so scarce and expensive in that distant land, that
they are reckoned amongst the most precious and costly
conveniences they possess ; hence in general they are
HARD AT WORK. 155
extremely reluctant to lend such articles, except for a
valuable consideration. But in this instance, as the
object was to forward a necessary supply of food to a
missionary, no special pressure was necessary on my part,
and nothing was demanded in the way of remuneration.
On the 26th of July I went on another journey to the
Afrikaners at Blydeverwachting, and found things in a
very satisfactory and prosperous condition ; but nothing
occurred calling for special remark, except that on this
occasion Titus Afrikaner, whom I had not previously
seen, on hearing that I was wishful to be introduced to
him, came and presented himself. As I gazed upon him
I could not help the question arising in my mind :
"Art thou the man that made" South Africa "to
tremble?" Ho was now old, nearly blind with age,
the mere shadow of his former self, lean and meagre,
but still retaining a measure of his former marvellous
activity, and very much of the modest and retiring
disposition that characterises the family. On the return
journey, leaving at half-past two in the afternoon, and
intending to travel all night, we offsaddled at midnight ;
and whilst refreshing our horses with a short graze
upon some good herbage, and ourselves with some cold
mutton, a troop of zebras, unexpectedly coming upon
and catching sight of us^, dashed off over some rocky
ground with rattling hoofs, and gave us to feel that we
were not the only inhabitants of the desert. The
occasional "hooting" of an owl by the way, and the
yelling of the jackals, were the only other sounds that
gave any indications of life amidst the silence and dark-
ness reigning around. Our horses were so full of spirit
at the end of that long journey, that they were ready
156 CHAPTER 111.
to leap over every bush that stood in their way ; and
one might have thought they had merely been taken
out for an airing, rather than suppose they were finish-
ing a journey of seventy-eight miles. At twenty
minutes to four a.m., we safely reached Nisbett Bath.
Our congregations were now greatly improving, and
things generally assumed a very encouraging aspect at
the Bath. On the following Sunday, our congregation,
on being counted by the schoolmaster as they passed
out at the door, was found to consist of nearly three
hundred persons. This was the largest number we had
had since our arrival on the station. For the first two
or three months, owing to the want of pasturage in the
vicinity of the station, about fifty was the average
number, but for some time past there have never been
less than two hundred. The reason of the large
attendance yesterday was the arrival of three waggons
full of people, two of which had come from Riet Fontein,
on the south side of the Orange River, and about one
hundred and fifty miles from the station, their object
being to remain several weeks that they might hear the
AVord. An English trader, with his wife and family,
liad also arrived with five waggons and a number of
men, so that our congregation exhibited a few white
faces, an appearance quite novel in this country. As I
was preaching a course of sermons on the Ten Command-
ments, I took at the service that which came in regular
order, viz., the Fourth Commandment, and it appears
to have been very appropriate to some, who, not being
quite at ease in their consciences, were led to inquire :
"Who has been telling the missionary about me?"
Our Sabbath school also was larger than we had ever
HARD AT WORK. 157
seen it before, one hundred and ninety being present,
among whom were many adults.
Between midnight and two o'clock this morning,
a slight shock of an earthquake was felt, accompanied
by a hollow rumbling sound similar to the noise of
empty waggons travelling over stony ground. The
noise, which continued some seconds, awoke many of
the natives, and much alarmed them ; whilst a swaying
motion from east to west was perceived by Mr. Macleod
and many of the people. Though I perceived no motion,
I was awakened by the noise.
Having announced on the Sabbath that the sacra-
ment of the Lord's Supper would be administered on
the next Sunday, during the course of the week many
came to the mission house with troubled minds, anxiously
desiring to see me. They mostly came in twos or
threes, men with men, and women with their own sex,
and sometimes several members of the same family.
Perhaps a misunderstanding had arisen between them ;
or they had " fallen out " with each other ; or family
strifes and alienations prevailed. They came to ac-
knowledge the fact in the presence of each other ; and
invariably the aggressor would open the case and admit
his fault, for they felt that they could not meet at the
table of the Lord with enmity towards each other in
their hearts, and were anxious for a reconciliation before
the Sabbath should dawn. On such occasions, which
constantly occurred when the sacrament had to be
administered, they would receive suitable counsel, renew
their friendship by taking each other's hand, and then
go away with light hearts and with a good conscience
to " eat of that bread and drink of thai cup."
158 CHAPTER III.
Sunday, 19th August. The congregation was larger
than ever, and almost as many as the chapel could con-
tain. In the morning I baptized a whole family of
children, five in number, belonging to some who had
recently become members of the church ; and then
preached on the subject of the Lord's Supper, showing
its institution, its design, its obligatory character, and
the spirit in which it should be celebrated. This was
preparatory to the evening service, at the close of which
I administered the Lord's Supper to a solemn and
deeply-affected company. Many who were permitted
to remain as spectators sat at a distance from the
members, and were as deeply affected as the com-
municants. A rich and hallowing influence of the
Spirit pervaded all the services of the day, and seemed
a blessed pledge of still richer effusions to be vouch-
safed. Only those who live amidst purely missionary
scenes, and witness the steady growth in holiness,
and in numbers, of a church composed of men and
women recently heathen, can form any correct idea of
the peculiar and hallowed delight that fills the soul of
the missionary. He then sees the prophecies in the
actual and steady process of accomplishment, and more
fully realises himself as an agent in the hands of the
Great Head of the Church in advancing their final
accomplishment, than seems possible under any other
circumstances. None who have laboured with success
amongst a heathen race can ever forget the hallowing,
heavenly, and peculiar experiences enjoyed whilst with
them. He may leave such scenes, and labour amongst
civilised races, and have success amongst his own
countrymen in the churches of his fatherland ; but
HARD AT WORK. 15 !>
THOSE SCENES will stand forth unique amongst them
all, and will live portrayed in vivid colours on his
mental vision ; and the memory of those experiences
will be ineffaceably imprinted on the tablet of his
heart.
If joy over repenting sinners is a proof of vital
piety, then we had many proofs of its vital character
amongst our own people, and this was especially the
case with our native teachers. As an illustration of this
remark, I may state that Job Witbooi, one of them,
residing at an outpost about seventy miles distant,
visited Nisbett Bath just at this time, and amongst other
things he mentioned the case of a young man who had
at one time been a member of the society, but had fallen
into sin, and been put out of the church. Soon after
he became dangerously ill, and during his illness was
brought to a sense of his guilt. Alarmed for his
spiritual state, he became truly penitent, and resolved, if
spared, to dedicate himself afresh to the service of God.
God heard his prayers, his health was restored, and ho
only waited the return of the day on which the class was
held to join it again. The native teacher was delighted,
and, though a poor man, resolved to mark his return to
God and His people in some signal way. And in relat-
ing the case he said, " I wish to ask you, Sir, if I have
done right." " Well, how did you proceed?" I said.
" I had a sheep killed that morning," said he, " and at
the appointed time the horn was blown to summon the
people together, and when they were assembled beneath
the shade of a tree, the young man clothed in new
attire stood in our midst. T gave out a hymn, which
we all sang. I then knelt down with the people
160 CHAPTER III.
and prayed, and praised God for His mercy in sparing
the young man and healing him in body and soul. After
this we all sat down and ate together. I had read,"
he added, " of the prodigal, and of the father's joy on
his return, and how it was said, * Let us eat and be
merry ; for this my son was dead, and is alive again ;
and was lost, and is found. And they began to be
merry.' r Here, I thought, was a simple and beautiful
illustration of religious mirth. Here were no noisy
outbursts, no boisterous expressions of worldly joy. All
was serious, and sanctified by the Word of God, by
prayer and praise. They " ate their meat with glad-
ness and singleness of heart."
On September 3rd I sent Mr. Macleod on a visit to
the Afrikaners, judging it advisable to remain on the
station myself. I was often obliged to employ him in
this way, partly as a relief to myself from some of the
long and wearisome journeys the working of the mission
involved, and sometimes because it was of importance
that at that particular time I should remain at the
principal station. Sometimes, as in my own case, his
journeys -were made on horseback ; and sometimes,
when his stay at the outposts was continued for several
weeks together, in the waggon, in which case Mrs.
Macleod would generally accompany him ; and in this
evangelising work they were invaluable, Mrs. Macleod
having a genuine missionary spirit, and being of great
service by her counsels and advices to the native women.
Daring Mr. Macleod's absence the day school was
regularly continued by a couple of native young men,
under my superintendence.
At this time, having discovered that some of the
HARD AT WORK. 161
members had never been united in marriage except in
the native mode, I judged it advisable that since they
had become Christians and members of the church,
they should be publicly united according to the forms
of the Christian religion. The marriage contract is
generally so lightly and indifferently entered upon by
natives not under the influence of the Gospel, that the
obligations of the estate are scarcely recognised, and are
too often violated with but little remorse. In order,
therefore, to raise the character of the institution in the
public mind, and set forth its solemn obligations, I
deemed it right to adopt the course mentioned with
regard to all the members of the church. The parties
were consulted, and all admitted at once the propriety
of the course proposed ; due notice was given, and at
the appointed time eleven couples appeared before God
and His people, to ratify their former engagements, and
in the fear of God declare their covenant of faithfulness
to each other so long as they both should live. By
adopting this course the holy estate of matrimony was
raised in public estimation, sound views were promul-
gated, and vice was checked.
Having received a pressing request from the chief of
the Velschoen Draagers to visit and preach to him and
his people, at the earliest opportunity, I now resolved
to take his tribe in connection with a contemplated visit-
to the north-eastern outposts.
September 6th. I left home on horseback in com-
pany with Dirk Jagers, a young man in my own
service, and in the evening reached 'Amas, the resi-
dence of our native teacher, Job Witbooi. I remained
two days, to preach, inspect the school, meet the mem-
M
CHAPTER III.
bers of the society, and inquire into society affairs
generally. Then proceeding to Nieuwe Fontein, about
forty-five miles further to the north-east, we found our
native teacher, Johannes Gagup. He is stationed at
this place, and has charge of a portion of the tribe of
William Fransman. Here also I remained two days,
preaching, inspecting the school, receiving Johannes'
report of all matters under his charge, and meeting all
the church members in class.
Johannes is remarkable for his activity, zeal, and
energy, and for the influence he exercises over the
people. He once had a remarkable escape from a lion.
He fired, when only a mere lad was with him, and, alas,
missed ! The lion bounded upon him, and, knowing
that any struggling might prove fatal, he endeavoured
to lie as quiet as possible. Taking his hand into its
mouth, as if playing with it, and placing a paw upon
his shoulder, as he lay on his face upon the ground,
the lion at length began to crunch the bone of his
right arm from the wrist upward. With as much
fortitude as he could command, he endured for some
time, hoping for some speedy interposition. Meantime,
the lad, his companion, had hastened back to the village,
where he found all the men away, except one young
man. But this brave young man, seizing his gun,
hastened to the spot, and, stealthily approaching, knelt
down and took aim. He was perceived by Johannes,
who saw that if he fired from that position, it would
be with great peril to himself. In an undertone, there-
fore, Johannes ventured to say, " To the other side
to the other side." The lion narrowly observed the
movements of the young man, but as he made no fuss,
HARD AT WORK. 163
instead of leaving Johannes, it merely lifted its head
grandly, and stood watching him. With admirable
coolness, he took up a new position, and fired, sending
the ball right through the head. The lion just gave a
quiver with his lower lip, and fell with his full weight
upon Johannes. " Then I thought," said Johannes,
" that my life would have been crushed out of me."
But the young man was soon at hand, and taking a
fore-leg of the lion, and by main strength turning him
over, released Johannes from the terrible pressure ; and
soon obtaining further help, they conveyed him home.
The arm was bound in splints, and the bone knit
together again ; and when Johannes told me of the
escape, rolling up his shirt sleeve, he showed me the
marks of the monster's teeth, which he will carry with
him to his grave.
Thirty-seven miles further to the north-east, lay
Stof Kraal, which was so named from the dusty, im-
palpable sand, or rather dust, on which the village
stands. Here I found a hundred and fifty of our own
tribe living. Elias Rolfe, the teacher, holds the school,
maintains the services, and regularly meets tho
members in class. Elias is a most exemplary man,
and though not until recently recognised as a native
teacher, he has for some-lime faithfully discharged all
the duties of that office ; watching over the members
with a solicitude and anxiety rarely equalled. To
witness so much care and zeal in the work of the Lord,
is particularly delightful, especially in a native.
Previous to his conversion he was accustomed to
accompany the predatory expeditions which were very
common amongst his countrymen a few years ago,
M 2
164 CHAPTER III.
when they thought little of shooting down those who
opposed them, whilst plundering them of their cattle.
The thought of his former mode of life was even now
very distressing. Standing one day by my waggon, I
perceived that he was in a tremor from head to foot, his
lips were quivering and his eyes filled with tears.
Thinking that something of a very sorrowful kind
must have recently happened, I asked what it was that
so deeply affected him, when I found it was the
thought of his former mode of life, in contrast with
what he now felt it ought to have been. And there
was one thought that was to him the most bitter of all,
the thought of having, in those reckless days, taken
the life of his fellow men. " 0, Sir," said he, " I have
no doubt that God has forgiven me for the Saviour's
sake, and that now I am a child of God ; and yet
sometimes, when I remember that I have shed the blood
of my fellow men, I am ready to wonder how God can f
admit me into the heavenly world." Forgiven by God,
he felt that he never could forgive himself. In his
general character he was modest and retiring, and in
religious matters a man of great sensibility and tender-
ness.
Here at his village I found very interesting occu-
pation. In anticipation of my visit the banns of
marriage had been published of fourteen couples, and
these were all waiting to be united in holy matrimony
in the Christian fashion. This ceremony was performed
in the presence of the whole population of the village ;
after which thirty-seven persons who had satisfactorily
passed through their probation were baptized in the
name of the Holy Trinity, and admitted into full
HARD AT \VORK. 165
church-membership. At the close of this interesting
and impressive service, during which many tears were
shed, four-and-twenty infants were also dedicated to
God in holy baptism. There was so much life and
animation amongst this people, and they appeared to
be in so prosperous and hopeful a state, that I should
have rejoiced to spend a longer time with them had it
been practicable. I was already a hundred and fifty-
seven miles from Nisbett Bath, and had nearly thirty
more to travel over a rugged stony country through
which there was only a " baboon's path," as the people
call it ; so that I could not stay.
Owing to the character of the road we could only
travel by day, and as we should be exposed to the sun
all the time, we feared a painful journey. At sunrise
on Saturday morning, in company with Elias Rolfe and
two other members of the society, I left Stof Kraal
for Klip Fontein, the present residence of the chief
of the Velschoen Draagers. The roads were ex-
tremely rugged, the sun intensely hot, and no water
to be found. After travelling several hours, unable
to endure the sun any longer, we rested for an hour
or two in the best shade we could find, which was
very poor. About three hours after resuming our
journey, whilst passing along the bottom of a narrow,
luxuriantly grassy valley, though so strewn all over with
loose stones as to make it difficult for our horses to walk,
we espied in the distance a few loose ride-oxen ap-
proaching, followed by two young natives, carrying
their bows and quivers with poisoned arrows. In a
minute more the mother of Hendrik Hendriks, the
chief of the Velschoen Draagers, made her appearance,
166 CHAPTER III.
walking along the valley in true African style. She
was about the ordinary height, very stout, with a re-
markably erect bearing, considering her age, which
must have been above fifty. She was perfectly desti-
tute of clothing, saving a narrow girdle of skin round
the loins, which, being fastened in front, left both ends,
cut into narrow strips, suspended as far as the knees. A
double necklace of very small blue beads, that reached
in a loop down to the waist, a white calico cap, fitting
close to the head, and a splendid parasol composed of
large black and white ostrich feathers, completed her
attire. From head to foot she was so thickly besmeared
with grease and red dust as entirely to conceal the real
colour of the skin. This unguent was to serve as a
protection against the sun. Elias, having several times
visited the tribe to which we were going, knew the old
lady, and introduced me as the missionary. She had
long looked for my visit, and now hailed my arrival
with great delight. When the first excitement was
past, she sat down to continue the conversation, whilst
we still remained in our saddles. But soon the flow of
feeling returned, and she rose again to renew her ex-
pressions of delight, suiting her action to the animation
of her feelings. A young woman accompanied her, but
tip to this moment she stood a few yards off in silence ;
now, however, amidst all the tumultuous eloquence of the
old lady's rejoicings, the young woman was overheard
to say in broken Dutch, and in a movingly pathetic tone,
" 0, I feel great grief to-day to see a missionary come
so far." This, in fact, was the burden of the old lady's
exclamations. Wonder, with grief and joy commingled,
seemed to fill the minds of both to think that I should
HARD AT WORK. . 107
have come so far to see and instruct them. After
travelling two hours and a half more, we came in sight
of the small valley in which the chief and two hundred
of his people had pitched their huts ; and as soon as we
were seen to descend the hillside sloping down towards
tlie village, all the children, assisted by the young men
and women, filled the air with a succession of shouts
till we arrived at the place ; and these shouts, being
accompanied by the barking of dogs, the bleating of
sheep and lambs, and the bellowing of cattle just
returning home from grazing, produced such a deafen-
irg tumult as I had never heard before.
On dismounting near the chief's hoiise, the chief,
Hendrik Hendriks, came to offer his salutations, though
with a coldness of manner that seemed unaccountable, and
tliat almost made me suspect the genuineness of the wish
he had expressed to receive a visit. Perhaps he thought
it became the dignity of his position to assume a little
distance and hauteur in his manner, lest the missionary
should bo in danger of thinking himself an equal. The
expression of his countenance was by no means pre-
possessing, and, though firm and manly, it was clouded
with a look of sullen sternness. He soon relaxed,
however, and became very genial. A chair of native
make was brought from his hut and placed by a bush
in the open air for my service ; some small poles were
driven into the ground in a row, and then some native
matting, standing on its edges, was made fast to these
poles, that I and the men who had accompanied me might
be defended against the cool evening wind. As a mark
of distinction he ordered a mat to be placed over the
part I was to occupy, to serve as a roof, that the de\v
168 CHAPTER III.
might not fall upon me during the night. Whilst these
preparations were being made, seeing that the lower part
of my trowsers was torn into strips from the knees
downwards by the thorn-bushes through which I had
had to ride, to my amusement, I suppose at the insti-
gation of one of my companions, he sent me a needle
and thread that I might repair them, and make a more
seemly appearance at his court ! A simple needle and
thread were quite a curiosity in that far distant region,
and must have been conveyed there by a native teacher
in his visits, or by some of our people, as at that earl;*
period no trader had visited his country. As soon as tl.e
cows could be milked, a perfectly new and ingeniously
carved milk vessel was brought full of frothy milk, fresh
from the cow, for my exclusive use. After taking a deep
draught I felt refreshed, and my tongue was loosened ;
for till then, in consequence of the rough and stony
nature of the country through which we had passed,
and exposure to the fierce heat of the sun from his
rising to his setting, I was so faint and exhausted as
scarcely to be able to speak. When the evening had
darkened in around us, the whole population assembled
where I and my party were located. A large fire
was made a few yards off, the company surrounded
it, and I preached under the starry canopy on God as
the Creator. During the service all were perfectly
attentive ; but long after it was over they continued
together, making their remarks on the missionary, and
laughing with wonder and delight, for I turned out to
be a much more curious object to them than I had
expected. They had heard of a missionary, they said,
but they thought that when he came he would be like
HARD AT WORK. 169
themselves ; but I was white. They were also full of
wonder to think I should have come so far ; for Elias
Rolfe had told them I had crossed the ocean, and that
my country was at a very great distance. They said
they were troubled that a white man should take so
much pains over them who were black. And when
they looked at my clothes and saw how they were torn
by the angry bushes, they said they were sure I had not
come to take away their cattle, but for their souls'
good. After most of them had retired to their homes,
hearing a loud and angry discussion in the chief's house,
I inquired of Elias Rolfe what was the matter. Smiling,
he said that one man, very anxious to have a full view
of my person during the service, wa,s quarrelling with
another, who, by standing before him, had obstructed
his view ; and though the other repeatedly affirmed that
he did not do so intentionally, but merely to gratify
his curiosity, it was with some difficulty that the anger
of the offended man could be appeased.
At sunrise on the Sabbath morning we held a prayer
meeting in the open air. When the time for morning
service drew near, men were stationed at distances of
two or three hundred yards from each other all down
the village, which was situated stragglingly in a long
narrow valley, and the moment I intimated my wish for
the congregation to collect, Elias shouted, " En ka koo "
("Come together "). The next man repeated, (( En ka
koo ; " the next did the same, and " En ka koo " was
telephoned in native fashion to the extremity of the
village, when simultaneously the whole congregation left
their houses and came to the place appointed ; so that in
five minutes we were ready to commence. Onlv the three
170 CHAPTER III.
men of my party could sing; but their singing very
much struck the congregation, who had never heard such
singing before. I preached from Romans v. 8. In
the afternoon I again preached from Acts xvii. 30, 31,
which was interpreted from the Dutch into Namaqua,
as were all the services, by Elias, and with good effect.
At night, by star and fire light, I read, explained, and
enforced the relative duties as contained in Ephesians v.
During the services I was particularly struck with the
devotional appearance of the chief. Whilst we were
singino- he stood rather behind the rest, having his eves
O O 7 v
closed, and seeming by the solemnity of his countenance
to be under the influence of deeply serious feelings. Be-
fore the evening service I had some serious conversation
with him respecting his desire for religious instruction.
On asking if he sincerely wished some one to live amongst
his people to instruct them, with deep emphasis he said,
" yes, I am exceedingly anxious. I must have a
missionary, and," he added, " this is the wish of all my
people." "But," I said, u if any one should come to
live with you, will more of your people come together?"
11 yes," he replied, " the only reason why they are so
scattered is because there is no instruction, and nothing
to keep them together. I know where they all are, and
I would send for them." I then explained to him the
sacrifices a missionary would have to make to come
and live in such a land ; the heavy expenses incurred
by his coming from so great a distance ; and how all
these expenses must be paid by the people of England.
He looked very thoughtful, thinking, probably, that if
such were the expenses and sacrifices, his was a hopeless
case. " Now," I said, " if I could procure a missionary,
HARD AT WORK. 171
would you and your people try and do something
towards meeting this expense ? " He deliberated a
moment or two, and then, with a not uncommendable
prudence, replied, " I do not exactly understand the
matter ; but we would do what we could." I then said
that I could not promise to obtain a missionary for him,
but I would write on the subject. He then said in an
impassioned manner, " 0, I am in haste, for man is a
dying thing, and I and my people may die before we
have a missionary." I believe he spoke the deep
feelings of his heart ; and to me both his serious and
earnest manner, and the sentiments he uttered, were
inexpressibly affecting ; and I thought, If these people
are not prepared for the saving Gospel of Christ, where
throughout the length and breadth of this world shall
we find any that are ? Already the incipient workings
of the Holy Spirit had been felt in the heart of this
chief, and in the hearts of many of his people ; a result
that, by the Divine blessing, has followed the simple
preaching of the Gospel amongst them by our native
teacher, Elias Rolfe.
On Monday morning, before day, I was awakened
by the voice of prayer, several of the people having left
their huts, where they can have no privacy, and gone
to the bush to pour out their souls. It was a moving
sound, and I hope a proof of the good effect of the
services of the Sabbath. At about 7 a.m. AVC took our
farewell of the chief and people, and, after another very
tedious and exhausting journey of nine hours, reached
Stof Kraal. I was too much fatigued to hold any
service that night, and was glad to retire to the nice
new mat house which was assigned to me and my guide.
172 CHAPTER III.
A bowl of milk was brought for my evening meal ; my
saddle formed my pillow, some new reed matting
spread upon the ground served as a mattress, and, fold-
ing my kaross around me, I had no doubt, weary as I
was, of a good night's rest. The dogs, however, were
an intolerable nuisance, and, as soon as all was quiet,
made their way in, searching for food. Several times
I started up angrily, and put the prowling beasts to
flight. Dash they went out at the doorway, which was
merely a reed mat, hanging down in front to the ground.
At length, tying the mat firmly to the bamboo frame-
work of the doorway, I once more composed myself to
rest, taking the precaution of having my right hand at
liberty, and my riding-whip, a strip of solid rhinoceros
hide, close by, so that at a moment's notice I could
grasp and use it. I was just dozing off when one of
these pertinacious marauders was at the door, evidently
intent on housebreaking. By-and-by the strings were
gnawed through, and the animal had gained an entrance,
and was sniffing about for anything eatable. Near me
was a chair with my manilla hat lying on it, in which I
had put a few pieces of rusk, all my store till I could
reach home. Standing on his hind legs, the head of the
dog was soon in the hat, crunching the biscuit. In an
instant I grasped my whip, and dealt a heavy blow
across the loins of the thief, and with a terrific yell he
dashed through the matting of the doorway and escaped.
I had no more intrusions that night, but slept soundly,
and later than usual. Early in the morning, almost
before any one else was astir, to his consternation, our
native teacher saw my hat lying out on the sand of the
village, with sundry strips of paper, on which I had
HARD AT WORK. 173
been making; notes, scattered about in all directions.
O 7
His first care was to make for my abode and see if I
was all safe ; so stooping down and peeping inside and
finding me and my man still asleep, and all right, he
carefully kept all till I was up. I had not observed
that anything was absent, till, on going out at the door-
way for a morning glance, Elias brought them to me.
The mystery, so alarming as it was to Elias, was soon
explained. The dog, deeply intent on the biscuit at the
bottom of my hat, and electrified by the stroke of the
whip, dashed off with my hat upon his head, the ribbon
which I had kept attached to it, to slip under the chin,
evidently answering a similar purpose in keeping it on
the head of canis till he had burst the bounds of my
habitation and got into the open village.
Bidding adieu early the same day to Elias and his
people, and on the return journey calling at Nieuwe
Fontein and 'Amas, where we rested for a short time, I
reached home safely after an absence of fourteen days,
thankful for preservation and for all the comfort I had
met with in the work of the Lord.
October 10th. I again left home on horseback for
Blydeverwachting, where I preached on the Sabbath
morning and afternoon, and at night met all the members
of society, about sixty in number. Having noticed
that Titus Afrikaner was absent from all the services,
on inquiry I found that he was sick. He has suffered
from extreme weakness of sight for a long time, and 011
visiting him, in company with his brother David, I
found him unable to open his eyes and also suffering
much from toothache. He expressed deep regret at
being detained from the house of God, and said "he
174 CHAPTER III.
longed to be able to go there again. His soul was in a
comfortable state, and his only trust in Christ." " You
are now old, Titus," I said, " and if it should please
the Lord to take you away from this world, should you
fear ?" Roused by the question, he instantly replied,
with much emphasis, " 0, Sir, I should be exceedingly
glad." Several other things he uttered equally delight-
ful delightful especially from him, who was once the
terror of this part of Africa. During Mr. Cook's time
he had been truly converted, and so deep were his con-
victions that for "several weeks he remained under
deep distress of mind, and in the night would frequently
creep out of his mat hut on his hands and knees, roar-
ing out in the disquietude of his soul, and alarming the
whole village in crying for mercy to that God whose
laws he had so awfully broken. After his conversion to
God, his joy was also so great, that he often left his hut
and repaired to the bushes for the purpose of praise,
being prevented from sleeping by the ecstatic joy he
experienced, as he had been before by the deep sense of
his guilt and danger as a sinner." So mightily trans-
forming is the influence of the saving Gospel of Christ !
During this month, Frederick Buys, one of our class
leaders, of Dutch and native descent, a very intelligent
and pious man, informed me of a party of Bushmen
who had located themselves with some of our people at
a place called Klip Hoek, forty-three miles to the south-
east of the station. He had several times visited them
from his own place of abode, and was so much interested
in their case, that he came to offer to go with his family
and live with them, to establish a school, and endeavour
to keep up religious services. I agreed that he should
HARD AT WORK. 175
make the attempt, and in a week or two he and his
family were on the spot endeavouring to benefit these
wild sons of the desert.
In fulfilment of a promise made at the time, I left
home on Xovember the 2nd for the purpose of visiting
this interesting community. Myself and companion
left home on horseback as soon as the sun rose, and had
a distressing journey, the sun being insufferably hot,
and the atmosphere, loaded with electricity, being ex-
tremely oppressive. In vain we looked for the shade of
some tree or shrub ; for several hours nothing was to
be seen in the vast grassy plain that could offer the least
O v A.
protection from the burning rays of the sun, till at last
we descried, about a mile to the left, two trees, that,
owing to the refracting power of the atmosphere, looked
large, and as if they would offer a grateful shade. Re-
luctant to move a foot out of our path, we were never-
theless compelled by the killing heat, and cantered up
to the nearest, which proved much less on our arrival
than it had seemed in the distance. Wild animals by
multitudes had evidently made it a refuge as we now
did, for the sand all round was covered with zand-luizen,
as the people call them, a species of tick, and other biting
insects. There was no remedy, however : so, scraping
away the sand and vermin with our feet, we crept under
the low branches, for tKere was no room to sit erect,
and lay down with our heads on our saddles. Kcarly
suffocated with heat, and overrun with vermin, I started
up and ran to the tree beyond, when out sprang a poor
jackal and fled at my approach. This was no better
than the other situation, but AVO forced ourselves to re-
main for an hour or two. We anxiously sought for
176 CHAPTER III.
water amongst some rocks near, in the hollows of which
we hoped a little might remain from the last rains, but
found none. At length we caught and saddled our
horses and started, but the fiery air and burning sun
absolutely beat us back to our shelter, where for
another hour we reclined with bridle in hand, drawing
the heads of our poor horses as far into the shade as
they could get without trampling upon us. Nature's
grand electric batteries, the massive thunder clouds,
were piling themselves up higher and higher in huge
majesty around the horizon, which accounted for the
unbearable oppressiveness of the atmosphere ; but again,
as with desperation, we went forth to encounter the
dreadful heat, fearful lest the night should set in upon
us before we found the obscure spot to which we were
going, and concerning the position of which we had
very vague directions. Just at sunset we reached the
place, with bloodshot eyes, blistered lips, fevered frame,
and completely exhausted, having had no water, and,
with the exception named, no shade during the whole
day. Two or three vessels of milk, and also of water,
which Frederick brought in a basin, were an unspeak-
able refreshment, and loosened my parched tongue,
which till now appeared to be glued to my jaws ; a
comfortable bed was made up for me in the body of
Frederick's waggon, for the wheels were off and it was
under shade, and a profound sleep on a water supper
allayed fever, and in a good measure restored me to a
feeling of comfort.
I found about eighty people, nearly fifty of whom
belonged to the Bushman race, the rest Bondelzwaarts,
some of whom frequently resort to this place with their
HARD AT WORK. 177
cattle in time of drought, when grass becomes scarce in
the vicinity of the station. Several of the Bushmen, I
found, had a few sheep, goats, and cows of their own,
whilst others were acting as shepherds for our people,
from whom they received a few sheep and goats for
their services.
The general appearance of the men is far superior to
what I had expected. They have in a great measure
left off the practice of smearing their bodies with grease
and dirt, and, instead of being naked like the generality
of Bushmen, some were even decently clothed in trowsers
and jackets of prepared sheepskins. The women were
far less prepossessing in their appearance, being almost
without exception destitute of any other clothing than an
open kaross thrown loosely over the shoulders, and hang-
ing as far as the bend of the knee. The holding of
Divine service among them by one of our people \vas at
first so great a novelty, and the assembling together of so
many persons operated so strongly on their timid minds,
that it was with difficulty they could be induced to
remain. One man especially was so alarmed that he took
to his heels and ran off in terror : and when pursued and
overtaken by some of our people, though the kindest
language was employed to allay his fears and assure him
of their friendship and kind-intentions, he could scarcely
be induced to credit their assertions, saying " he was sure
there would be quarrelling amongst so many people."
All this timidity soon passed away; they now sit quietly
to hear the wonderful things of God ; often feel deeply,
and for some time several of them have attended the
class with the other members of society, and good hopes
are entertained that the civilising and Christianising
N
178 CHAPTER III.
process thus auspiciously commenced may be carried on
to their permanent benefit.
Since Buys has been located amongst them, he has,
with the help of the people, erected a small chapel, com-
posed of the stems of young trees interlaced with long
grass and bushes, in which he meets his class, holds day
and Sabbath schools, conducts prayer meetings, and
exhorts ; and as he is a man of unquestionable piety,
and more than ordinary intelligence, I doubt not he
will be rendered very useful.
With very peculiar feelings and yearning compassion
I addressed these wild men and women as they sat in
the congregation. Their uninstructed minds had been
gradually prepared to understand some of the simple
truths of the Gospel ; and whilst I spoke they listened
with intense interest ; the bosoms of many heaved, and
their eyes filled with tears. The little day school for
children was chiefly conducted by the eldest daughter
of the native assistant, under the supervision of her
father. I left them with an earnest prayer that in the
great harvest some of these poor people might be found
gathered into the garner of God.
On the 17th November of this year the birth of our
firstborn was the occasion of joy and gratitude in the
mission family, and throughout the station. Old Sarah,
the chieftainess, and the other principal women, mani-
fested quite a maternal sympathy and joy, and offered
many thanksgivings to God for the life of the mother
and infant. But on the Sabbath following convulsions
suddenly seized upon the little infant, and threatened to
prove fatal. I dedicated her to Him in holy baptism
in the presence of her resigned though weeping mother,
HARD AT WORK. 179
soon after which the spirit of the little sufferer was
" caught up unto God and to His throne," and heaven
became the richer for our loss. In a far distant land
the birth of the little one was hailed by the mother with
unusual joy, and the stroke of bereavement fell with
more than ordinary severity on her newly-awakened
maternal feelings. The grace of God was, however,
sufficient, and the delicate sympathy of the good women
in the place afforded a great mitigation of the sorrow
that was inevitable. On one Sabbath our child was
born to earth, on the next she was born to heaven.
In this hot country burials follow deaths in quick
succession. On the next day at five p.m. the station bell
was tolled, and soon the chapel was well filled. The
little coffin, covered with white calico, was brought into
the chapel and placed upon a table, when a verse or two-
of a suitable hymn was sung, the usual psalm and lesson
read, and prayer offered, during which many wept as
though they had lost their own firstborn. When this
part of the service was finished, myself and the school-
master walked first, four young women followed bearing
the little coffin suspended in white linen bands, and the
whole congregation of three hundred persons, throwing
themselves into order, walked two and two to the grave,
nearly a mile distant, themen carrying their hats in
their hands as an additional expression of respect. Not
a voice was heard, seriousness and silence prevailing
throughout that long procession, an example that might
well be copied in more civilised lands. Just as the sun
was sinking below the horizon we reached the grave,
and there, close by the tomb of the Rev. Edward Cook,
I committed our dear babe to the house appointed for
N 2
180 CHAPTER III.
all living. The people encircled the grave, a short
address was given, a funeral hymn sung, the sand was
thrown in upon the little coffin, and I left with a full
heart. The people followed from the grave in the same
order as before, but this time the men with covered
heads, till on reaching the gates of the mission house I
turned round and bowed my thanks, when every hat was
lifted, a serious and polite bow was made in return, and
every one retired to his own home. I confess I was
much struck by the polite and delicate manner in which
all expressed their sympathy and respect. No arrange-
ment had been made previously as to the manner in
which the funeral was to be conducted, except with the
young women who carried the coffin ; so that the orderly
marching two and two, the men walking with uncovered
heads, the manner of return, and the graceful adieu at
the close, were all the spontaneous result of their own
instinctive sense of what was right and proper.
The death of an infant makes little impression gene-
rally, save in the family where the event has occurred ;
but, for a long time after the death of our babe, a molli-
fying influence seemed to rest upon the spirits of our
people, and they seemed as ready to receive salutary
and saving impressions as the -wax under the warming
influence of the flame is to receive the impression of the
signet. The trial, painful as it was to the parents, was
abundantly blessed both to ourselves and our people,
whilst the opportunity it gave for the manifestation of
their affection endeared them to us greatly.
CHAPTER IV.
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES.
JANUARY IOTH, 1845. This morning we made a dis-
agreeable discovery. In a room that had till recently
been occupied as a sleeping apartment \ve found a snake
coiled up and concealed under the cradle. The cradle
was not occupied, yet the circumstance of finding a
serpent in a room so much frequented was peculiarly
disagreeable. During the night, unable to sleep in the
upper room, in consequence of the excessive heat, I had
left our usual sleeping apartment and gone to this lower
room, the window of which had been open all the night,
and, after pacing about in the dark with bare feet, had
thrown myself down on the sofa, if possible to secure
a little rest. As the reptile must have been in the room
at least that whole night, it was a very merciful thing
that I escaped treading upon it and being bitten, which
would have been very serious, and probably fatal, for
on examination the natives pronounced it to be of a
most dangerous kind.
This is usually the hottest month of the year, when
a large portion of every night is generally passed, owing
to the suffocating temperature, in a sleepless state. It
was during such nights, though long before this period,
that whilst restlessly pacing my room at two or three in
the morning, a sound was heard that somewhat thrilled
182 CHAPTER IV.
upon my nerves. At first I could not comprehend it :
but, on listening attentively, I felt assured it was a
human voice. Soon, other voices broke upon the
solemn silence of nature ; and at length the fact burst
upon me, a delightful, though awe-inspiring fact, that
it was the voice of prayer and supplication. The tones
were subdued, but full of pathos and earnest entreaty,
and proceeded from amidst the rocks and shrubs
of the river bed, and soared aloft, " far above these
nether skies," whence the silent stars were lookino- on
f f3
the dark world below, to the throne of the Almighty
God in heaven. For days I felt awed in spirit as often
as I thought on the subject ; and, on inquiry, I found
that it was the custom of many of the pious among our
people, when sleepless, to rise and leave their houses,
where no privacy was to be obtained, and go to the
rocks and shrubs, where, amidst all the solitude and
silence, they could pour out their souls before God in
prayer; after which they would return home and sleep
tiU morning. I afterwards found how prevalent this
habit was amongst the more earnest people, and, when
far distant from home, I have been waked many times
by the same solemn, subdued, earnest voice of prayer,
the very sound of which has often been a means of
grace to my soul.
January 24th. I again mounted my horse and left
home on a visit to the Afrikaners, travelling durin<r the
/ o o
whole night with the exception of about two hours, in
order to avoid as much of the terrible heat as possible.
The sun in this climate, especially at this season of the
year, is emphatically " the destruction that wasteth at
noonday," and compared to which the " terror by
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. l^J
night " is as nothing. Soon after my arrival, Daviil
Afrikaner returned from a visit to several small tribes
of Korannas living along the northern bank of the
Orange River. These tribes belong to one of the lead-
ing divisions of the great Hottentot family, speaking
the same language, with only a slight difference of
dialect, which proves no hindrance in understanding
each other, and in general living in the same manner,
varying only from the Great Namaquas in a few cir-
cumstances, occasioned by the location they have
selected along the shores of a great river. They build
mat houses of beehive shape nearly close to the water's
edge, under the thick foliage of the willows and
mimosas, and construct nets out of cord made from the
bark of young branches of the mimosa. With these nets
fastened at one end on the shore and at the other to the
stump of a tree, or pole driven into the bed of the
stream, they catch a quantity of fish, some of which
are upwards of five feet in length : these are sometimes
broiled as soon as taken ; sometimes dried, pounded,
and put into a goat-skin sack for future use. Occa-
sionally they shoot the enormous hippopotami, the flesh
of which, and especially the fat about the ribs, they
esteem a most luscious article of food. With these
small tribes David spent upwards of three weeks.
They received the word with readiness and much in-
terest ; and some pressed him to remain amongst them.
This valuable and fine old man was absent nearly five
weeks, including his journeyings ; and during the whole
time he was dependent almost exclusively on wild honey
for support, having obtained flesh and pounded fish only
seldom, and in small quantities. He seemed mentally
184 CHAPTER IV.
and spiritually refreshed by his late mission tour, and
to myself the detail of his labours and journeyings
was deeply interesting. Klass and Jacobus Afrikaner,
David's brothers, had oversight of the work during his
absence ; and I found the members in a pleasing and
prosperous condition ; and very much enjoyed the
services of the Sabbath, into which David threw un-
usual animation. Travelling all the night, to escape the
heat, I reached our station in twelve hours and a half,
the horses showing great cheerfulness on the journey.
In the month of February this year a new and valu-
able auxiliary to the piety of our people was pretty
generally adopted in their own homes. As the result
of our singing meetings, the people had acquired many
new tunes, which they sang very correctly ; and I
thought this a good opportunity for inculcating on them
the duty of maintaining family worship, as one means
of preserving them in spiritual life when scattered by
drought to every part of the country where a little
water and grass could be found for their cattle, and
where they could not enjoy the visits of a missionary or
native teacher, except at wide intervals of time. In
some families none could be found to read or start tunes ;
so to meet this case several young men were appointed
to certain houses in different parts of the village, to give
out the hymn, set the tune, and read a portion of Scrip-
ture, when some member present would engage in
prayer. The case of every family could not be met, but
those who were left without this aid had the opportunity
of resorting to the house of a neighbour, and of thus
sharing in the service. About eight o'clock at night
the signal-bell for prayer was rung ; and at eight each
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 185
morning, in the chapel, the meeting for reading and
exposition of Scripture and prayer was, in fact, family
prayer for the whole village. On two nights in the
week public worship was conducted in the chapel, and
on the other evenings the domestic meetings referred to
were held, and were much valued by the people. At
the evening hour of prayer, I have often left my house
and stood beneath the starry heavens to listen to the
voice of praise ascending from different parts of the
village. "Justification," "Alma," " Helmsley," were
some of their new and favourite tunes ; and as many
families blended their voices, sweetly did they fall upon
the ear, wafted by every breeze, inspiring devotion and
awakening gratitude at the success which had been
graciously accorded to the plan.
For many years past I had been very fond of bathing,
and in the summer months I had felt this refreshment
as indispensable to my health. But in this country,
where, for about nine months out of every year, the
temperature was such as to allow of, if not actually
invite to, this healthful pleasure, alas ! no water of
sufficient depth for the purpose was to be found nearer
than the Orange River. I had often longed for the
exhilarating plunge, and as often had I lingered near the
fountain from which the place took its name, and
wondered how I could make it available for bathing
purposes. At length the idea struck me. At a distance
of about twenty feet from the fountain, a bath could be
dug thirty feet in length, twelve in breadth, and six in
depth ; and the water, when let off, could be conveyed
to the garden dam, and thus preserved from waste.
By a simple contrivance the water from the fountain
186 CHAPTEIl IV.
could be admitted, or shut off from the bath, at pleasure ;
and though at the spring it was of the temperature of
105, by admitting it late at night, it would become
sufficiently cool and bracing by the morning. 31 y
plaus being laid, they were communicated to Jan Ram-
mard, a very useful artisan whom I often employed on the
mission premises. Xext I called all the young men of
the school, among whom were some vigorous half-castes,
nearly as white as their Dutch fathers, and all at once
entered into the scheme, agreeing to work at the close
of the school morning and afternoon. Pickaxes, spades,
crowbars, &c., were all in requisition, and some rocks
had to be blasted under the superintendence of Jan.
They worked with a will, and they worked well. The
facing of the bath with stone was done exclusively by
Rammard, the materials being brought by the young
men. The stone facing being done to the level of the
surface, it was further seen that to make all private, so
that bathing might not be interfered with at any time,
it ought to be surrounded by a Avail six and a half feet
high ; which Rammard engaged to do for a mere trifle,
inserting a door at one end. This bath I found an
unspeakable refreshment, and a great contributor to my
health and comfort.
February 20th. This morning 1 married two of our
members, who in company with several of their relatives
had travelled a distance of one hundred and fifty miles
for this laudable purpose ; a pretty strong proof of the
importance they attach to the Christian mode of
celebrating the union. They and their friends had
travelled not exactly in the same manner as Rebekah,
who with her damsels " rode upon camels " through the
DANC4ERS AXD DELIVERANCES. 187
desert, from Mesopotamia, yet in a manner near enough
to suggest the resemblance. Our party rode upon oxen,
taking their own time, and journeying easily, till the}'
reached the "metropolis." Due notice had been given,
the banns published, and the morning had arrived when
the ceremony was to be performed. A serious mistake
had, however, nearly occurred, owing to the absence of
the bride at the critical moment ; for, being young, and
not fully instructed, the bride had left the bridegroom
to go to the ceremony alone, thinking her presence
could be dispensed with.
March ll'th. To-day, having committed the station
in charge to Mr. Macleod, myself and wife left home
with the intention of spending several weeks at the
important out-station of Blydeverwachting. The greatest
inconvenience on the journey arose from scarcity of
water, the only place where it is generally obtained fail-
ing to furnish a supply in consequence of the long
absence of rain. After digging to a depth of six feet
in the bed of the River 'Aams, we succeeded in obtaining
just sufficient for ourselves ; but the poor oxen were
compelled to travel the whole distance of two days and
a. half in the burning sun without a drop. On the
Sabbath morning I preached on Matt. xiii. 47-51, and in
the afternoon catechised the people upon the sermon of
the morning, which afforded a good opportunity of
impressing the subject afresh on their minds. At night
I met those members of society who had visited the
place to enjoy the services of the day. The impression
left on my mind at the close of the meeting was of a
sorrowful description, for almost without exception signs
of much spiritual languor were perceptible. As I
188 CHAPTER IV.
listened to the statements of these few members, so
indicative of spiritual faintness, I could not but feel
something of the yearning and tender emotion the
Saviour Himself experienced when He saw the fainting
and shepherdless multitudes. Their frequent absence from
the regular means of instruction is one of the greatest
hindrances to growth in grace and knowledge and
stability of Christian character ; yet such is the
uncertainty of the rains, such the wandering mode of
life occasioned by the search for suitable pasturage, that
though the evil may be mitigated by frequent journey-
ings of the missionary and his native agents, it cannot
be remedied.
Often has the writer, whilst stating the peculiar
character of the climate and country, been amused Avith
the exclamation, " Why don't they lea\*e the country and
seek a better ?" No doubt, if this Avere practicable, they
Avould do it. It is an idea that has often occurred to
themselves ; and during my residence there much AA-as
said of a land abounding Avith fountains and good grazing
grounds, of Avhich they had heard, and once or twice the
chief and all his councillors came together seriously to talk
of a removal. But on inquiry this attractive land Avas
found to be already in possession of other and more
populous tribes to the north ; and though, by dint of
powder and lead, the combined tribes of Namaqualand
might succeed in driving such tribes further up into the
interior and take possession of the country, the act
Avould be a robbery such as no missionary could
countenance, Avhilst the living wave of tumult, once set
in motion from the south, Avould heave and swell in
strife, and conflict, and death, from tribe to tribe, till it
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 189
expired on the lifeless shores of the Great Southern
Sahara. I gave them distinctly to understand that I
could be no party to so selfish a scheme as the wronging
of other tribes, even for the benefiting of themselves ;
and that desirable as was a better land, could it be
honourably found, under existing circumstances I should
absolutely refuse to accompany them. This was sufficient,
and from those in power I never heard anything more on
the subject. Families, and even small parties, of Great
Namaquas may improve their lot ; but, as a whole people,
to move to fairer lands north is out of the question.
Barriers lie in that direction that can never be
surmounted. To the west lies the Atlantic. East a
desert waste. South the British Colony of the Cape of
Good Hope. The only way is for the Christian missionary
to take the country and people as he finds them, and to
deal with them in their present circumstances, conferring
all the benefits he can, as God's instrument, and point-
ing them to that true Canaan which is above, so that
they may learn to view it with the " unbeclouded eye "
of a living faith, as their own great inheritance through
Christ. But it will be evident to all who look at the
case, that the missionaries stationed in such a country,
and amongst such a people, have special need of faith
and patience, for they laLour under peculiar disad-
vantages. It can only be because the God of Ethiopia
has not forgotten her that so much success has resulted,
and that already so many of her sons and daughters
" stretch out their hands unto God."
On Friday evening I met another class of members,
from whose experience I derived much greater satisfac-
tion than from those with whom I had spoken on the
100 CHAPTER IV.
Sabbath evening. The reason of the difference is seen
in the fact that the former had remained on the place,
and had enjoyed regularly the appointed means of
grace ; the latter had been necessitated to remove to a
distance to procure pasturage ; and, as a natural result,
the one was flourishing, whilst the other seemed droop-
ing in the spiritual life.
April 7th. Yesterday, Sabbath, I baptized eight
infants, and preached on 1 Cor. vi. ID, L'O, in the
former part of the day. Again in the afternoon, from,
" If I wash thee not, thou hast no part with Me ;" and
at night I closed the labours of the day by administering
the Lord's Supper to about eighty members of society.
The congregations were large, too large indeed for the
chapel to contain them, numbers having arrived on the
Saturday evening from adjacent places. This was the
third successive Sunday I had spent with them, and
each Sabbath had been marked by the descent of
gracious influences, but this was pre-eminently the best
of all the three.
During my stay here I have held at least one service
every day, frequently two. The school has been under
daily inspection. I have several times met all the
members of society, had a special meeting of the
leaders, read and inculcated those portions of the Rules
of the Society that can at all apply to a people circum-
stanced as they are, baptized four adults, eight infants,
and administered the Lord's Supper to the members.
^Irs. Ridsdale also, twice a week, held meetings for all
the women who could attend, for the purpose of con-
A-f-ying such instruction as can be best given to select com-
panies of one sex only. In these meetings opportunities
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 101
frequently occur of more deeply imprinting on their minds
the great truths they have heard preached. Great and
visible benefit has already resulted from these select meet-
ings, though there are still many things among the people
that need rectifying : and so firmly fixed are tlueir old
views and practices, that much patience will be necessary
before the efforts for their removal will produce the desired
and full effect. Before these, however, and the continued
blessing of the Most High, they must finally vanish.
Having put several things into a more satisfactory shape,
in a final public service I commended them to the bless-
ing of Heaven, and recommenced our journey home.
But there was no possibility of resting long, for
another journey to the northern outposts was immedi-
ately in prospect. Five days sufficed to look a little into
the affairs of the station ;' one Sabbath's services were
held at home, the station was once more committed to
the care of our excellent schoolmaster, and before the
fourteenth of April closed, our oxen were put to the
yoke, and we were once more traversing the wilderness
on our great work of evangelising the heathen. On
reaching 'Amas, about seventy-five miles from home,
messengers were despatched by Job Witbooi, the native
assistant, to all surrounding parts, to inform the people
of the missionary's arrival Next day, a large number
came, when, as usual, public services were held, and
the members met : and during our stay marriages were
celebrated, baptisms performed, and everything apper-
taining to the society matters investigated. One thing
struck me very much during this visit. Each morning
while it was yet dark, and all the stars were glistening
in the vault of heaven, the monotonous sound of the
192 CHAPTER IV.
antelope's horn, beginning in a low tone, and gradually
waxing louder and louder, roused me from my slumbers,
as it did all the sleepers of the village ; when, by-and-
by, the low and imploring voice of prayer was heard,
first from one side and then from another, till it seemed
as if all the village was sending up its prayers to God.
At the sound of the trumpet, blown by Jantje April, a
rich man, upon whom a marvellous spirit of quickening
had been shed forth, one and another left his hut and
stole away to the rocks or bushes, until the voice of
prayer resounded from all sides, and broke the reigning
silence long before the first streak of day was seen in
the orient. The plan had been proposed some time be-
fore by our native teacher ; the members on the place
had gladly acceded to it, and at the solemn-sounding
summons all who had the spirit of prayer rose and
cried unto the Lord. The effect of the monotonous
summons, the imploring voices striking on the ear in
the darkness and silence, was to myself awe-inspiring.
It thrilled the soul through and through : it seemed to
bring God and man, earth and heaven, intimately near.
Indeed, I can never advert to it, even now, without
realising something of the peculiar emotion I then felt
What a glorious illustration of David's words ! " My
voice shalt Thou hear in the morning, Lord ; in the
morning will I direct my prayer unto Thee, and will
look up." (Psalm v. 3.)
This was my wife's first visit to these parts, and she
was as much struck as myself with this deeply interest-
ing circumstance. On a former occasion the people
had requested that I would bring her to see them ; but
such was the state of the roads in the neighbourhood
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 193
that I told them they were enough to shake her and the
waggon to pieces, and until they improved these I should
be almost afraid to bring her. A hint was enough : a
o o
body of road-makers was soon organised ; men, women,
and the children of the school, headed by the native
assistant and the schoolmaster, went forth to grapple
with the difficulty. Fortunately, the stones in general
were loose upon the surface, so the men removed the
heaviest beyond the line of road, the women what they
could manage with facility, and the children soon cleared
away the small ones; and on this visit, to my amazement,
a very bad and almost impassable road, up a steep
ascent, had been so entirely cleared, and rendered so
smooth, that my wife could travel over it with comfort.
TVith many prayers for the blessing of heaven upon
the people, we bade them farewell, and proceeded to the
next outpost, Nieuwe Fontein, forty miles further to
the north-east. Here since my last visit a new and
pretty chapel, as it seemed in that country, had been
raised under the direction of Johannes Gagup, our native
teacher. Until its erection all services had been held
beneath the shade of a large spreading camel-thorn
tree. Some time before, arrangements had been made
with a native builder to erect a stone chapel ; but as, in
his estimation, the pay was insufficient, nothing came
of the agreement. Before long, serious thoughts were
agitating the mind of Johannes. " One night," said
he, a as I lay sleepless in my house, I began to ask
myself, ' What am I doing for the Lord ? I say that I
love God, and yet I am doing nothing for Him ! '
These thoughts so pressed upon his spirit that he called
the people together, and told them what his feelings
o
194 CHAPTER IV.
had been, and what he felt it his duty to do : they saw
that he was right, and promised to help : waggons for
the fetching of wood, and sleighs for the carriage of
stone, were promptly put into requisition : whilst the
women assisted by bringing a good supply of grey clay
for mortar, and the children found genial employment in
fetching water in their bambooses and treading the clay.
The result was the building we beheld.
After remaining several days at this place, leaving
Mrs. Ridsdale and Martha, the servant girl, I took one
of my men and proceeded on horseback to the next
outpost, Melk-Boom River, a narrow valley with low
mountains on each side, the sandy bed of a river running
along the base, in which deep holes were dug for a
supply of water. The hills were remarkably verdant
to the very top, and the euphorbia abounded. This
place I had never seen before, though the community
were watched over by Elias Rolfe, who on my last visit
was at Stof Kraal. Some of our outposts are very
shifting things, more especially that with which Elias is
connected, he and his people having no fountain around
which they can permanently settle. In a country like
this, no stationary mode of existence is practicable. A
chapel, something like the Jewish booths erected during
the Feast of Tabernacles, was set up for their services,
and in this primitive place I preached with great com-
fort and enlargement. During my stay, as usual, a
house was allotted to me and niy man, which, however,
was often frequented by Elias, and occasionally by the
people.
After an absence of several days from Nieuwe
Fontein, on my return I found the people had been very
DANGEKS AND DELIVEKAKCES.
/
busily engaged improving and making some additions to
their recently-erected chapel. Though the building had
been used by the congregation, the interior required
plastering, and it was deemed that several other things
needed to be done. So, at the close of the daily morn-
ing service, Johannes communicated his intentions to
the people, who at once entered into the scheme, and
men, women, and children were all employed in some
part of the work. The men brought stones in their
sledges and Avaggons, the children and youths clay
in dried sheep-skins, and the women water in their
wooden milk vessels : some were soon engaged in plas-
tering the Avails, Avhilst others were building a low wall
to serve as a seat all round the inside of the building.
A pulpit Avas also built of masonry, for lack of wood ;
and a semicircular wall, to serve instead of a commu-
nion rail, was erected, about eighteen inches high. I
found this very useful in contributing to order Avhenever
baptismal, sacramental, and marriage celebrations
occurred. The masonry and plastering being finished,
all was whitewashed, and exhibited a clean and spotless
hue. And just Avhen all remaining materials Avere
cleared away, the shout was raised : " There comes
Mynheer ! " for the horses of myself and man \vere
seen in the distance canterijig towards the A 7 illage. On
being led into the chapel, I Avas astonished at the work
that had been done, the skill and taste displayed, and
the altered and improved state of the chapel.
On Thursday, May 8th, after tAventy-four days'
absence, we Avere glad to reach home. It Avas not a
desirable or suitable time of the year for a long journey,
especially a journey to Cape Town ; but as our supplies
2
196 CHAPTER IV.
were nearly exhausted, it would have to be undertaken ;
and taking the whole case into consideration, the sooner
it was completed, and we were again back in the station,
the better it would be. Our return had been hailed by
our people with so much pleasure that it would have
been a delightful thing to ourselves, could we have quietly
settled down for some time upon the station after so
much of travel and change ; but it was imperative that
we should start three months sooner than would have
been advisable under ordinaiy circumstances.
On Wednesday, May 14th, all being ready, we bade
adieu to our affectionate people, who were assembled
around house and waggon, taking with us three men to
manage the waggon and oxen (a team of which had to
be driven loose, to bring back with us another waggon),
and Martha, our native servant. On reaching the
Orange River we found its waters low, as they usually
are in the winter months, so that our waggons, though
with some risk, were driven through at "the Upper
Drift." It was an unspeakable comfort to be able to
pass with such facility, for we still had a painful remem-
brance of the difficulties connected with our first passage,
and were very thankful that they had not to be en-
countered again. We met with some loss, however, in
crossing. Being so long a journey, it was necessary
that a few sheep for slaughter on the road, and a few
milch goats, should accompany us, and in passing the
river two or three native swimmers living on its banks
were employed to get them across. But under the
semblance of pushing the animals across as they swam,
they managed to keep their noses just below the water,
so that, notwithstanding the sharp look out kept upon
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 197
the villains, two sheep and a goat when brought to land
were almost dead. These, to our mortification, we were
obliged to leave in possession of these dishonourable
fellows, who thus got the sheep and goat in addition to
their pay. Though no members of the Royal Humane
Society, I have no doubt they were quite up to the pro-
cess of restoring apparently drowned sheep to life, and
that much assiduity would mark their operations in this
way after our departure, when very probably they
would have the happiness of seeing the animals, of which
they had so deceitfully robbed us, nibbling at the grass
and bushes in the enjoyment of perfect health, and
ultimately the still greater one of cutting their throats
and eating them up seriatim, just when their wants dic-
tated. Even in case their efforts to restore animation
should prove unsuccessful, they would lose little, for the
knife is always at hand, and the flesh of all three, cut
up into thin slices and dried in the sun and wind at this
season of the year, would keep ten times longer than
they would be likely to require it. To us who had to
keep five people exclusively on meat every day in the
wilderness, besides our own smaller supply, the loss was
serious.
We passed the river on Friday, 16th of May, where
our oxen all drank to the-Xull, and where our two water
barrels, for our own use, were replenished. We were
now in Bushmanland, and at once resumed our journey
through the very heart of the desert. We had met with
no water at the time of our outspanning on Saturday
night, but we had enough for our own use ; and as the
oxen had drunk at the river, and the grass on which
they had grazed was green and full of juice, and the
198 CHAPTER IV.
weather quite cool, we were not anxious, and resolved,
according to our constant custom, to rest and "keep
holy the Sabbath day " on the spot reached on the
Saturday night. We were quite satisfied we should
obtain water on Monday. On the Sunday night, how-
ever, our oxen showed signs of thirst ; they were rest-
less, and could not be kept near, refused to eat, and were
bent on wandering, so that the only way of securing
them was by having them made fast to the yokes of the
waggon as it lay upon the ground. On the Monday
we were very anxious, but no water was found ;
we travelled till it was too dark to travel farther, and
then the waggoner said we had better stay, or in the
darkness we might pass the place where the water was.
We remained, but after the work of the day the poor
animals were distressed beyond all endurance. Tuesday
morning dawned, the fourth day since they had drunk,
and William, on whose knowledge of the region we
had altogether relied, started at the first dawn of day
and sought, but sought in vain. He thought we
must have passed the place, but, as he was evidently
uncertain, to retrace a step was out of the question,
especially as he knew that by evening we should cer-
tainly come to a place where water was always found
in the winter months. We therefore yoked in once
more, and proceeded with hope and prayer that relief
might soon, be obtained.
At about ten o'clock that morning we met a Bush-
man bearing his gun on his shoulder (for whenever this
weapon can be obtained, the bow and arrow are laid
aside). We stopped the waggon, saluted him, and
asked where he was going with his gun. " Op de jagt,"
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 199
was his answer Le., on tlie hunt and so we supposed.
In half an hour we spied some mats set on their edges,
and tied to some sticks driven into the ground, as a
defence against the wind, evidently a Bushman kraal.
This was yet at a considerable distance before us, and
to the left of our path. It was a joyful sight, for, " Now
we shall have water," we involuntarily exclaimed, and
forward we journeyed in good spirits. As we nearecl
the village, eight or nine men came out towards us, as
we supposed, to " salute " according to custom, and
when within thirty yards of the waggon I ordered it to
be stopped. At this moment, just when we were ready
to extend the friendly hand and speak words of greeting,
the whole party wheeled round and walked away with-
out uttering a syllable. We were all struck with amaze-
ment. I felt indignant, and exclaimed, " What do the
fellows mean ? " for though I had never met with any-
thing like it before, I felt sure that it was intended as
an insult. Our men looked suspicious, and knowing
the habits of the Bushmen better than myself, they
afterwards told us that they were very much alarmed
that day. We had our own thoughts, but, whatever
others may have felt, I suspected no danger. Two
hundred yards further along the path brought the
waggon opposite the village^- " Span out," I shouted
that is, " unyoke " and springing from the seat in front,
whilst the men were busy loosening the oxen, I ran
down the sloping ground to the left, anxious to see and
report respecting the water. There was a small hole,
not more than eighteen inches in diameter, just at the
base of a sudden fall in the plateau, and it gave little
promise that our two-and-thirty oxen, ready to " take
200 CHAPTER IV.
in a river/' would find a sufficient supply, this being
the morning of the fourth day since they had had water.
As I returned to the waggon, which was nearly two
hundred yards from the water, and on higher ground
than that from which I came, to my surprise there
stood a woman, and a man was in the act of rising
from behind a bush, a little to the left, his gun barrel
peeping out of his kaross. Suspicion of something
wrong instinctively arose, for it was evidently a place
of concealment. " And what's he doing there with his
gun ? " was the question that instantly suggested itself.
But immediately it occurred : " Why, it's nothing to
see a man with his gun in this country ; every one
carries his gun." Whilst this momentary tumult of
thought and suspicion was going on, as I advanced
towards the waggon, I moved to the man and woman,
by way of recognition, and said, " Good morning.'*
The woman moved her head in reply, but evidently as
one under restraint. The man looked sullen and angered,
and made no reply. How little did I think that i was
then looking upon my would-be murderer, and upon
the woman who was the means of my preservation !
How little did we imagine that Ave were encamping in
the midst of enemies !
I mentioned nothing of what I had seen, or of the
momentary suspicion awakened, even to my wife, for,
unaccountably, no remnant of it was left behind, and I
felt as safe and confiding all the rest of the day as I had
ever done whilst living in the midst of the natives. The
oxen being freed from the yoke, the men made loose
the spades, and went to the water to dig the hole larger
and deeper, and make it more accessible to the oxen.
DANGERS AND DELIVEBANCES. 201
My own post that day was a peculiar one. Standing
on the ridge below which the water was situated, and
wielding the huge waggon whip, I was obliged, and
sometimes with the sharpest strokes my unpractised
arms could inflict, to fray away the poor oxen, that,
almost maddened by thirst, were ready to rush upon the
men who were enlarging the place for them to drink ;
and even after this was accomplished, though only one
ox was allowed to approach at a time, the sand was so
often trampled in again, that the men were kept con-
stantly repeating the work the whole day. Several
times during the day a Bushman child, generally a girl,
was sent to fetch a vessel of water from the place, when
I instructed the men to allow her free access and to
take as much as she might need. Any petulance or
roughness on the part of the men would probably have
brought on a crisis, though at the time I suspected
nothing, and only acted from a motive of kindness. A
garrulous old Bushman came to beg tobacco of our men,
but they had none. The eldest son of the Bushman
chief was, during part of the morning, standing near
observing, and engaged in conversation, though our
men had difficulty in understanding his dialect. The
skin of an ox, bloody, and evidently just taken from the
animal, was spread out to the sun, and pegged down
to the earth to dry, which" suggested that it would only
be prudent to appoint one of our men to guard over the
oxen that were grazing at large, whilst the others were
waiting their turn to drink, giving strict injunctions to
keep them near the waggon and under constant oversight.
Whilst I was down at the water, one or two of the
Bushmen had gone and looked into the waggon where
202 CHAPTER IV.
my wife was busy sewing, and saw ray rifle and
fowling-piece slung up, and remarked admiringly on
the appearance and contents of the waggon, whilst two
or three had sat on the ground watching our servant
girl as she cooked our dinner ; an old woman also joined
them, and through Martha, who was a very good girl,
my wife talked with them, and exhorted them to give
up their roaming life, and come and settle on the mission
station. At noon I was summoned to the waggon to
dinner, when for the first time since we had been in the
country my wife looked concerned, and said, " I hope
these Bushmen will do us no harm." I laughed, and
said, u Why, what reason have you to fear? They never
have done yet ; all I fear is that unless we keep a sharp
look-out, they may stealthily get some of our oxen."
" I don't like their proceedings," she replied. From
the high ground on which the waggon stood she could
oversee all, and had marked that at intervals they crept
about stealthily from hut to hut, sat as in consultation,
and conducted themselves in such a way as to awaken
fear in her mind. Our men were amazingly sombre
that day, and much less talkative over their meals than
usual. Old Kedo especially, a most imperturbable and
contented subject in general, was not a little fidgety
because two Bushman children had been found by him
creeping about almost literally between the feet of the
oxen, when he was sent to bring them nearer, and keep
watch over them. The little innocents made off on his
arrival, but old Kedo was up to Bushman tricks, and he
felt that my instructions to him had not proceeded from
an excess of caution. But his fears, and the fact respect-
ing the children, were both kept to himself till some
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 203
time after, when a full revelation of our peril came to
light.
After dinner the men's task and my own were re-
sumed. The oxen had, during the men's meal time,
trampled the pool so full of sand, that not a drop of
water could be got by them, so that the opening process
had to be recommenced. At half-past four the sun was
getting low, and though some of the oxen had obtained
no water, we all felt an unaccountable reluctance to
sleep at this place amidst Bushmen, who, to say the
least, had not acted so as to inspire confidence. No
suspicions were expressed to each other, but our men
were evidently very anxious to get off : so, as the sun
was dropping in the west, at five o'clock we bade adieu
to the two or three Bushmen near our \vaggon, and
proceeded on our way. And it was a mercy we did,
for, had we known all, we could not have adopted a
wiser course.
We travelled seven miles farther and found plenty of
water. I ran down a slope to see it, and was delighted
to find a pool four to six yards in length and breadth at
the base of a rock, and fortunately on my solitary visit
found no lions, though a few days afterwards the foot-
marks of two were found at that very spot by some
people of our own station travelling through the country.
Several horses were killed by these same lions, which
afterwards crossed the Orange River into Great Nama-
qualand, when they were hunted and shot. We felt
that we were not far enough from the Bushmen to be
comfortable, yet we resolved, on account of the water,
to remain for the night, and God gave u His angels
charge over us to keep us."
204 CHAPTER IV.
"When we reached the northern side of the Khamies
range of mountains, it being dark, with drenching rain,
we came to a halt near the winter residence of a Dutch
Boer. What to do with our people that stormy night
was a problem we hardly knew how to solve, till, on
making application to the Boer, permission was given
for them to lodge with his servants. Next morning I
went to thank him. He asked if I was a missionary.
I told him I was. " Where have you laboured ? "
" On the other side of the Orange River, amongst the
Bondelzwaarts, Afrikaners, &c." At the mention of
the latter name he was evidently excited, and exclaimed,
" Afrikaner ! Afrikaner ! he has shed much innocent
blood ; he was a regular lion ! " He wished to know
if old Titus was still alive. I said, " Yes, and is con-
verted, by the grace of God, and is now a quiet and
peaceable man." " Is that possible? is he, then, con-
verted?" I assured him he was. "What, then, is
too hard for the grace of God?" After conversing on
a variety of topics, I proposed to read a portion of
Scripture. He handed me a Dutch Bible, saying he
nould read, but could not well understand, and was
always glad when he could find a missionary to explain
it to him. I proposed that several of his people, who
were near, might be called into the house ; but this
was evidently an unwelcome request, though he so far
complied as to call them to sit around at the outside of
the door. I then read and expounded John iii., and
engaged in prayer, all kneeling. Almost before I could
rise from my knees, he exclaimed, " But you have not
yet sung." "Well," I said, "if you can assist me, I
shall be happy to do so ; " on which an old Dutch hymn-
DAGGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 205
book was handed to me. I selected a hymn that every
Dutchman is likely to know, and to which the notes of
Luther's Old Hundredth were printed. So I commenced,
and they joined most boldly, without the slightest know-
ledge of the tune, and such a jargon of roaring and
squalling, of harsh unmusical sounds, I never heard.
My own puny voice went for nothing in the uproar,
whilst my risible faculties were so severely taxed at this
outrageous attempt at harmony, that after struggling
with extreme difficulty through a couple of verses, I
could endure no longer, and was glad to give it up as a
bad job ! Judging from their agreeable and self-com-
placent looks, my good friends, however, appeared to
derive much satisfaction from the success of the experi-
ment, and no doubt would, in their simplicity, feel all
the happier for some time to come.
On wishing him and his family farewell, he accom-
panied me to the waggon, where, finding the men busy
yoking the oxen, he himself took up a couple of yokes
and put them on the necks of four oxen, to the great
surprise of our people, who said they never saw a Boer
do that before. Such was the excess of his good will,
though somewhat slow in developing itself.
After about three days of travel through the sublime
and rugged scenery of tlic_ Khamies range of mountains
we reached Lily Fountain Mission Station, and took
Mr. Jackson, our missionary there, entirely by surprise,
as he had had no notice of our approach. He gave me
little comfort. I was altogether too soon for the journey ;
no rains had fallen ; the country was never worse off
for grass, and he predicted the loss of all my oxen ! I
had better hopes, and as circumstances compelled the
206 CHAPTER IT.
journey at that early period, after a day or two's rest I
resolved to proceed.
On the 20th of June, after a rapid journey of five
weeks and one day, " one of the swiftest on record," I
should think, in missionary annals, we reached Cape Town
without the loss of an ox, and in the enjoyment of a measure
of vigour much greater than when we left our station.
Our object in. visiting Cape Town was twofold : the
first and most important was to obtain supplies for
another two years' residence in the interior; and the
second, to procure a boat to facilitate the passage across
the Orange River. In order to obtain the latter, the
liberality of the members and friends of our society in
Cape Town had to be appealed to. A public meeting
was held in the chapel, at which the writer gave an
account of the mission, and especially a detail of the
difficulties and dangers attendant on passing a deep
river with rapid current, and five hundred yards in
breadth, by the native rafts. A collection was made at
the close, when a Sergeant Churchill, from the barracks,
came up and presented, in addition to the collection, a
donation of 5. The amount requisite was soon raised,
the boat procured, and after spending three weeks in
Cape Town, during which plenty of work both in the
Dutch and English departments was found for me, we
commenced our return journey for the interior with a
new waggon in which to travel, whilst the other served
the purpose of a pack -waggon, bearing the novel article
of a boat, inverted above the general load, and covered
by the waggon tent.
On July llth ourselves and our people all felt it to
be a positive relief to escape from the narrow limits of
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 207
a town and launch out again into the open space and
breathe the free air of the wilderness. Sundry snappings
of our tackle told of the weight we had stowed away
in our pack-waggon, and at the same time put us to no
small inconvenience. On the day after starting, whilst
the men were greasing the fore axle of the pack-waggon,
they managed to slip off the wheel, when down came
the point of the axle upon the ground, the waggon being
much strained by the Aveight of its load. Unable to
raise it, we were detained there all the Sabbath, a
dreary day, rain falling from beginning to end ; but on
Monday all was made right, our spirits rose, and we
once more resumed the journey. As we passed along,
occasionally near the houses of the Dutch Boers, the
sight of the boat awakened their curiosity, and elicited
many questions. After travelling for about a fortnight
in the ordinary monotonous way, we met with a Dutch-
man who was very friendly and chatty. He was quite
up with the times, and, amongst other matters, had the
most recent information from Bushmanland. He told
me of the depredations of the Bushmen, and of their
having killed a Dutchman. " Well," I said, " if people
will go out to shoot Bushmen, you can't wonder if the
Bushman shoots in return." He wanted to know
where I was going, and, on being informed, told me
that I must not think of Venturing through Bushman-
land, as no one could travel there in safety. I bade
him farewell, assuring him that I must go nevertheless.
We had thought nothing more of the Bushmen, since
we were at their village, and had mentioned the
circumstance to no one, simply because it left no
abiding impression on our minds. And all that the Boers
208 CHAPTER IV.
now told us, passed away as an idle tale. A week
after, at ten o'clock one night, whilst our waggon-wheels
were monotonously grinding their way through heavy
sand, a man appeared in the darkness, close by, and hailed
in Dutch : "Is that Mynheer Ridsdale's waggon ? "
Recognising his voice as that of my old servant, Dirk,
" What," I said, " is that you ? " He had lived with me
for eighteen months, at Nisbett Bath, and was now on
a journey to Clanwilliam in company with another
man. He and his companion had lain down to sleep
for the night, but hearing the waggons, and suspecting
them to be mine, he had come to see. At his request
the waggon was stopped : he had something important
to communicate. He stated that we had been in great
danger on our way to Cape Town : that the Bushman
chief 'Nosop had intended to murder us ; that his wife
had remonstrated ; that, vexed at allowing us to escape,
he had flogged her severely with a sambok, and vowed
that on our return with loaded waggon he would
murder us, and have a prize ; that he was then with his
party on the look-out for our return, and that we
must not think of proceeding beyond" the Khamies
Berg Mission Station. Still, as it now seems to me,
unaccountably slow of heart to believe, I did not
hesitate to express my conviction that there was no
truth in the matter; when poor Dirk, finding his
word questioned, felt as if he had received an insult,
and wound up by saying : " Well, you'll hear all
about it from Mr. Jackson." That last reference pro-
duced its full effect, and opened my eyes to the reality
of the case ; and I became anxious to meet Mr.
Jackson, and understand the matter fully.
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 209
During the journey, in consequence of the copious
dews of the night, a keen south wind, and a hot sun,
we found the weather exceedingly trying ; especially
after the climate of Namaqualand. In the sun we were
too hot, in the shade too cold ; shivering, sickness, and
headache followed, and soon I was very seriously
attacked with fever. This continued for ten days,
during which the sail of our new waggon was our only
defence against rain, of which we had an abundance,
and it found its way through in half a dozen places,
falling in all directions upon the bed, which was a sore
affliction to my poor wife, who had the care of her
sick husband. When nearing Mr. Van ZyPs, of the
Uitkomst, though necessitated by our circumstances,
we felt exceedingly reluctant to call at the house,
because of their children ; but on finding that I had
been ill, they insisted on our going into the house. A
large room was given up for our use, the kindest atten-
tion shown, and there we remained till my strength
was so far recovered as to be able with safety to resume
our journey.
After having been exactly a month on the road, at
midnight on the llth of August we once more reached
Lily Fountain Station, and were glad to leave the
waggon, and shelter ourselves beneath the roof of the
mission house. The family had been at rest for an
hour or two, but rose to welcome us with all the en-
thusiasm of missionary affection ; a sentiment that can
only be fully appreciated by those who have lived and
laboured in foreign lands.
Mr. Jackson soon confirmed all I had heard respect-
ing the Bushmen, and said it would be impossible to
p
210 CHAPTER IV.
proceed to my station in safety, except under the escort
of a large body of armed men. The murder of William
Threlfall was not yet forgotten, and that alone was
sufficient to operate as a salutary check to the adoption
of any presumptuous course of action. 'Xosop, we
understood, to insure his prize, had placed scouts on
a mountain just at the point where the main path
branched out into two, so that whether we had taken
the road leading to the upper, or that leading to the
lower drift or ford of the river, in either case we should
have been full in view of the scouts. These were
reasons why we should take due precaution : bnt our
stay for a season at this station was rendered all the
more necessary by Mrs. R.'s circumstances, which made
it impracticable to travel over the rocky and precipitous
roads of this lofty mountain-range without great incon-
venience and danger. The weather, too, was very severe,
and of itself was sufficient to put a veto on all waggon
travelling. Snow covered the ground, and in these
grand highlands an innocent game of snowballing was
carried on by the children of the mission family, in
which the fingers of the writer so itched to take part,
that he found it impossible to refrain ; and so in honour
of Old England, and in remembrance of her brave white
winters, he threw himself with enthusiasm into the fun,
till his cheeks, pallid with the everlasting sweats of Great
Namaqualand, glowed with the crimson flush of a frozen
clime. Icicles hung down from the roof of the mission
dwelling, all round, from twelve to eighteen inches
in length ; a scene so new again, and a contrast so
entire to anything I had seen since leaving England,
that I could scarce believe I was in Africa. The great
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 211
drawback at such a season is the scarcity of fuel. For
coal one might search for ever in this granitic region,
and to collect a load of good hard wood a waggon must
travel many miles over tremendous passes. Of late,
however, a winter's residence has been erected in the
Onder Veld, a portion of the country two or three
thousand feet lower down, where the cold is much less
severe, and where perhaps more fuel is to be found.
After we had been about a fortnight on the station,
the dubious intelligence was brought: "Old Abraham
has made 'Nosop still." Mr. Jackson first heard the
rumour, and asked what I thought it meant. " I
suppose," I said, " that old Abraham and he have come
to terms, and that 'Nosop has promised to keep the
peace." " I don't think so," said Mr. Jackson, " I
believe Abraham has killed him." But this was an idea
that I was very slow to entertain, as I had not heard
so much of the ravages of the Bushmen as Mr. Jackson.
I now learned that soon after we had passed through
them, they commenced depredations on the flocks and
herds of a trader in the vicinity, and he applying for
assistance to the nearest " veld kornet," an armed
party was sent against them, headed by Pieter
Engelbrecht, a principal man in the community at
Kok Fontein. The Bushmen took refuge in a low
mountain, and, ensconcecTbehind the shrubs and rocks,
fired on their assailants. Engelbrecht at the head of
his party advanced recklessly, and was shot down, on
which his companions with dastardly cowardice fled,
leaving their wounded leader in the hands of his
enemies. The Bushmen, seeing their enemies flee, left
their concealment, and whilst their victim was still
P2
212 CHAPTER IV.
quivering with life, they cut away the flesh about the
wound to search for the ball, that they might reserve it
for future use. Soon fresh depredations were com-
mitted on the flocks and herds of another farmer, and
while out in search for them, suspecting that they had
merely wandered, he was fired at by the concealed
Bushmen, and the ball, striking his thumb, tore it from
the hand. At the same moment he was wounded by a
poisoned arrow in the thigh ; but being on horseback
he escaped, and afterwards recovered. They sent
threatening and alarming messages to Boers in the
neighbourhood, and also to the people of Lily Fountain
Mission Station, saying they would save them the
trouble of reaping their harvest, for they would come
and do it for them : and though this was puerile boast-
ing, as their numbers were too few to accomplish
anything against a community, yet the alarm spread
amongst many of the people : whilst to those Boers
who were living on solitary farms, with very few
servants to aid in defending them in case of an attack,
their threats were full of terror. They had passed
over the Orange River into the territories of our chief,
and had robbed and plundered, and scattered the few
people living near the river. This seems to have
aroused the ire of our chief, and with a body of men
he went against them, the first announcement of which
proceeding was the dubious one already mentioned.
Soon other rumours of a horrifying nature were
brought, to the effect that all the men had been killed,
and that wanton barbarities had been perpetrated on
their bodies after they were slain. But no reliable in-
formation could be obtained for some time. Eventually,
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 213
the intelligence was brought on good authority, that all
the men had been shot by our chief's party, and the
women and children spared.
It was these women from whom the particulars were
afterwards learned with respect to myself. On the
day when we first met with them, they saw our waggon
approaching long before we saw them : the old chief
'Nosop took up his position behind the bush, where I
saw him, as the waggon drew near, levelled his gun,
and only Avaited till we should pass, when his intention
was to send the bullet through myself and the driver,
who were both seated on the fore-chest, side by side,
and very favourably for his purpose. The woman
remonstrated, and said, " That's a man of peace, and a
missionary: if you shoot him, not one of your children
will be spared to you." But he was sullenly fixed in
his purpose. Providentially the waggon was ordered
to stop before coming opposite the bush, and at a dis-
tance of fifty yards on the other side. The women
testified that the intention was by one shot to dispose of
myself and driver, when, it would be easy to dispose of
the other members of the party, to take possession of
the oxen and all our articles, and then to take the
waggon to a " kloof," or ravine in a mountain, and
burn it, that no trace o_ns might remain, and no one
ever know what had become of us.
On September 5th, Mr. Jackson left the Khamies
Berg Station, having received an appointment to Wyn-
berg, near Cape Town, so that I was left alone till the
arrival of his successor.
Early in November, I received a letter from the Civil
Commissioner of Clanwilliam, enclosing an account of
CHAPTER IV.
the attack on the Bushmen by our chief Abraham. It
was written by a trader, in the chiefs name, and for-
warded to the Secretary of Government immediately
after the transaction, and gave me the first account of
the affair that was at all to be relied on. His Excel-
lency the Governor having directed the Civil Com-
missioner at Clanwilliam " to make inquiry, with a
view of ascertaining the accuracy of the statements,
and to report the result," he wrote to me, requesting
that I would make inquiry, send him what information
I could, and accompany it with my opinion as to whether
the chief acted properly throughout ; " as," it was added,
" his Excellency will be happy to reward him for his
conduct." In reply, I stated that I was then at the
Khamies Berg Mission Station, but that as soon as I
reached Nisbett Bath, I would endeavour to ascertain
the facts, and immediately communicate all the infor-
mation I could a;ather.
O
During my stay at Khamies Berg, I found a good
measure of employment. I had all the services on the
station to conduct, besides occasionally visiting those
living in the Onder Veld. Amongst other matters that
engaged my attention was my boat, which had been
brought in safety thus far, and which was now carefully
deposited under cover. By exposure to the sun on the
road, the wood had shrunk very much, so that many of
the seams between the planking were half an inch wide.
I tried my hand at caulking and painting the little
craft, a novel occupation for me, devoting three hours
a day for several days, till the work was done to my
satisfaction. At the end of November several of our
people arrived from Nisbett Bath to assist us over the
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 215
remaining part of the journey ; our waggons were
repacked, and everything in readiness.
On Wednesday, December 3rd, we took our leave of
3Ir. Bailey, the new missionary, and the people, and
after an unavoidable detention of more than sixteen
weeks, we descended from this elevated region to travel
once more through the burning plains of Bushman-
land. Some of the heights from which the waggons
had to descend were frightful, and though thongs were
attached behind the waggons to prevent too rapid a
descent, and at the sides, to prevent their canting over
where the roads were very much lower on one side
than on the other, I had many fears lest the pack-
waggon should go over, and my boat be smashed among
the rocks. By the good providence of God, the lower
country was reached in safety, and our Sabbatli was
spent at the house of a Boer at liiet Fontein, by whom
we were most kindly received, and in whose house I
preached twice to .all his household, increased by our
own party ; and, as a number of his friends were visit-
ing him, I had a congregation of forty persons. The
heat was suffocating, and probably we felt it more
owing to the sudden change in our position. On the
last {Sunday, being on the mountain height, the ther-
mometer stood at 57 in the shade: to-day it was 100
in the shade, with not a "breath of Avind stirring. As
we travelled through Bushmanland, we could not help
thinking of our providential escape a few months before,
though at the time no fear of danger was permitted to
agitate our minds. He who had before saved us from
the danger itself, imminent as it was, now saved us
from all fear. The heat was dreadful, midsummer
216 CHAPTER IV.
being near at hand, and water extremely scarce, so that
we all suffered from both these causes, the poor oxen
the most, as is always the case, it being impossible to
carry water for them, though we may often manage to
do so for ourselves. On reaching Quick Fontein, rather
more than sixty miles on the south side of the Orange
River, I despatched a man on horseback to our station
to request that, by a date mentioned, Mr. Macleod
would meet me at the river, to assist me in rowing the
boat.
On Friday evening, the 12th, we reached the Orange
River, and were much better prepared to cross it than
we were two years previously, when we had to rely on
native swimmers. This time they came to offer their
services, but to their amazement they were not required.
The first thing was to launch the boat, when, to my
delight, I found that my first experiment at caulking
had been very effective ; for after exposure to the heat
of the sun for nine days, and a tremendous jolting over
the Khamies Mountains, she only took a gallon or two
of water on first putting into the river, and, after lying
to soak a little and swell, was nearly water tight. Our
Sabbath we spent on the hot and dusty banks of the
river in our usual way, in public Avorship and quiet
reading. On Monday, being impatient at Mr. Macleod's
non-arrival, and being unable to obtain any aid from
the natives, who had never seen a boat before, I ven-
tured across the river with a light load, and a man to
help to deposit the cargo on the northern shore. How-
to get back was the difficulty. In crossing, the current
had borne the boat far down the stream, so that the
cargo was landed more than a quarter of a mile below
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 21?
the point from which I had started. The only way
was to keep nearer the northern shore and row dead up
against the current a sufficient distance without at-
tempting to cross ; a very exhausting labour, and one
which was only accomplished inch by inch. Having
succeeded in getting up sufficiently far, literally flooded
with perspiration, panting for breath, and prostrate
with exhaustion, I leaped ashore to rest awhile before
attempting the passage over. This I found very easy,
as I crossed at a slant, and was aided by the current.
Twice I crossed with loads, and returned, by myself. I
had just reached the northern bank with the third load,
and was so weakened from the heat and exhaustion
that I scarcely knew how I could row myself and man
up stream again, when to my joy Mr. Macleod and a
native came up on horseback just in time to take an
oar and share my labour. Two pairs of hands were a
vast relief, and we soon found ourselves in high spirits
on the other side among our friends.
The heat was really dreadful, and what to do with
our new-born babe, five weeks old, we could scarcely
tell. Mrs. 11. and the servant ran with him from
bush to bush and tree to tree for the best shelter ; but
in the best place the shade was only partial and the heat
insufferable. At last, as_the best protection we could
devise, we placed him on a camp stool, and put that
under a small camp table, both standing beneath the
imperfect shadow of a large tree on the river's bank,
and only a few yards from the water's edge. Having
just come, weary and exhausted, from rowing the boat,
I sat on the ground resting my elbow on the camp
stool and my head on my hand. Just then a long thin
218 CHAPTER IV.
snake, coining from the brushwood behind, glided along
the sand, with head erect, close by the side of my leg,
and when just past my naked foot (for, being constantly
in and out of the water, I had taken my shoes and
stockings off) the alarm was given ; it turned and fled,
springing into the low branch of a fallen tree, where it
was soon killed by some of our people. Had I started
on seeing it, no doubt I should have received a bite,
but being perfectly still I escaped unscathed.
Whilst remaining at Khamies Berg, I had procured
a small mast and bowsprit for my boat, and had got
a native woman to make me some rope out of several
old rice bags, and to hem a sail I had shaped out
of an old tilt sail of a waggon. On Monday after-
noon a violent wind blew from the west, which was
just favourable for my experiment. My mast and little
bowsprit were soon fixed, my foresail hoisted, and with
that sail alone the breeze took Mr. Macleod and myself
up the stream against the powerful current at a great
rate, when, having gone as far as we felt disposed, sail
was struck, and we came back at our ease with the
stream. That Avas the first white sail ever spread, I
believe, on the waters of the Orange River. The
natives were amazed, and, as per sallum^ I rose to the
highest point in their admiration. " Before you came,"
said they, " we were everybody ; " meaning they were
indispensable ; " but now you have made us to be
nobody ! " Subsequently, the boat was rigged with
foresail, mainsail, and gaff-topsail, like a cutter, though
the latter had to be used judiciously, and only in gentle
winds ; but I found it very useful sometimes to boom
out the foresail on one side and to lay the mainsail back
DANGERS AND DELIVERANCES. 219
on the other, when the strong winds of the afternoon
would carry the boat up river against the powerful
current at great speed, to the astonishment of our men.
With all the aid and comfort of our boat we were
detained four days at the river, as our waggons had to
be reduced to small portions, wherever this w r as possible,
the boat being only twelve feet by four. The body
and tent of the waggon, being inseparable, could not be
taken over in safety by the boat, and had to be con-
veyed by swimmers on a raft. At length the waggons
were repacked, and, going on before them on horse-
back, I reached my station on the night of the 17th
of December ; the waggons with Mrs. R. and party
reaching home before breakfast on the morning of the
18th in peace and safety, after an unexpectedly long
absence of nearly seven months. The chief and people
gave us a hearty welcome, and we once more felt as if
AVC were at rest. Our hearts were filled with gratitude
to God, for the truth of His promises had been most
signally displayed in our preservation, so much so, that
the ninety-first Psalm seemed an exact description of
the various interpositions we had experienced ; and as a
suitable expression of our gratitude, we devoted the
second Sunday after our arrival to the Lord, as a day
of special thanksgiving foivmercies received.
CHAPTER V.
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS.
1846. At the earliest opportunity I undertook the
delicate task of inquiring into the truth of the state-
ments made by our chief respecting the destruction of
the Bushmen in his letter to the Government. On
stating my object, and requesting the chief and several
of the leading men who had accompanied him on the com-
mando to meet in my house, he came, evidently under
great excitement, shaking either with fear or wrath. I
stated that the governor was wishful merely to know
the facts of the case, and that if the chief had " made
no unnecessary use of fire-arms, he would be happy to
reward him." I then took down their statements, read
them seriatim before them, and they were confirmed as
true by all present. Next morning, however, two of
the principal men came to the mission house, wishing
to see me. They commenced by saying : " We arc
ashamed to'tell you, but we cannot rest without doing
it. "We told you falsehoods yesterday." I had spent
two or three hours with them in getting their several
testimonies, and weaving a connected account, which on
bearing they all agreed was correct. Now it appeared
all my trouble went for nothing ; but, being resolved to
send off no false statement, I ran the risk of exciting
the anger of the chief by summoning him and the same
men once more, and then called on the confessors to
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 221
point out what part of the statement made on the pre-
ceding day was false.
They had made it appear, as the chief did in the
account he sent to the governor, that the Bushmen fell
in figlit ; whereas the real facts were that when Abraham
ordered 'Nosop to surrender, he replied, something like
another Leonidas : " If you are a great chief, come and
fetch us." On this the chief ordered the bushes on the
small island, on which the Bushmen had taken refuge,
to be fired, in order to compel a surrender; but they
were too green to burn. The women, however, on
hearing the order, became alarmed, and, with the
children, waded through the water and came to the
chief's party, having received the promise of protection.
Almost immediately, all the Bushmen, except three,
followed the example of the women, coming unarmed,
having left their guns behind. The women were then
sent to fetch the guns, which they brought, with the
exception of one retained by Klass, 'Nosop's son, and
which he refused to yield. Then, finding that there was
no escape, a party of armed men being on each side of
the river, the remaining three waded through the water,
as the others had done, Klass bearing his gun in his
hand, and cursing savagely as he came. The chief,
standing near the water's edge, upbraided Klass with
the murder of Pieter EngelbYecht, which only increased
his rage, and as he held his gun in a threatening position,
the chief retired and ordered his men, as soon as he
reached the shore, to disarm him. All the Bushmen
who had previously come to the chief were seated on
the ground, near his own men. But instantly on
Kl ass's <mn being taken from him the word was Driven
222 CHAPTER V.
by Abraham, "Fire." Five of the Bushmen fell at
once. Klass was attempting to run into the water,
but was shot and fell at its edge ; whilst two others,
who had fled into the water, were shot and fell there.
This order was quite unexpected by the chief's own
people, one of whom had seated himself in the midst of
the Bushmen, and was asking one who sat next him
how he came by his gun, when the order to fire was
given, and, starting to his feet, and raising his hands in
the air, he cried out : " Don't shoot me." The chief
said, unhesitatingly, that when he left the station he
went resolved to shoot them : they had already com-
mitted murder ; had threatened to murder others ; no
one could travel through the country with safety ; and
therefore the only way to remove the danger was to
remove them out of the way.
Such was the account I finally received. All admitted,
when read sentence by sentence, that it was now per-
fectly right, and ever after they affirmed this to be the
only true version.
Thus it appears that the Bushmen, instead of falling
in fight, were shot after they were disarmed and had
surrendered ; a fact that makes a mighty difference, and
one that the chief had studiously concealed in the
account he had forwarded to the governor.
Under these circumstances, an account of which I
forwarded to the civil commissioner, and through him
to the governor, it is scarcely necessary to say that it
never pleased his excellency the governor to reward the
chief for his conduct. No reply was ever returned,
from which Abraham rightly concluded that his conduct
was not approved.
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 223
It is remarkable that these poor creatures were shot
on the 22nd of August, about the very time we should
in all probability have become their victims, had we
merely called at the Khamies Berg Station on our way,
as we originally intended, instead of meeting with the
providential detention of several months. Whilst we
were kept there, they were taken out of the way.
Again I was called to thankfulness for a merciful
interposition of God's providence. One day wishing to
obtain some corn for family use, which was kept in a
loft above Mr. Macleod's kitchen, a ladder was brought
* O
and so placed as to enable me to ascend and unlock the
door of the loft. After obtaining the corn, the door
was locked, and the ladder removed. But by some
means a stone in the building had become loosened, where
the framework of the loft door was inserted in the wall.
Of this none of us were aware ; but soon afterwards,
when ascending the steps to enter the kitchen, I was
stunned by a terrible shock, which for the moment
made me leap upwards and instantly fall backwards to
the ground. There I lay helpless till assistance was
rendered. The stone from the building had fallen just
at the instant that I was ascending the steps, and struck
with terrible concussion the right leg just above the cap
of the knee. The marvel _was that it did not break the
bone, and the greater mercy, perhaps, that it did not
strike the skull, which must have happened if the head
had been inclined forward. It had fallen from a height
of about twenty feet, and was nearly fourteen pounds
in weight. I was so maimed as to be kept a close
prisoner for some days.
On the 13th of January*, anxious, after mv lon-
/ / / ., n
22 -i CHAPTER V.
absence, to visit the Afrikaners, I set out on horseback
for Blydevenvachting. On my arrival I found David
Afrikaner absent, having gone on a visit to Jonker
Afrikaner, the chief, in Damaraland. Jonker had now
abandoned his evil practices, and received a Wesleyan
missionary, and had sent urgent and repeated messages
to David and his people to come and settle with him.
Until now they had disregarded these messages, being
so attached to David that they were extremely unwilling
to leave him and the quiet they had long enjoyed. This
had been the state of things for years. But it was one
that placed David in an unenviable position, as Jonker
was chafed by disappointment and jealousy. David, at
length, anxious to remove wrong impressions from the
mind of his chief, to whom he was uncle, resolved to
visit him, though at a distance of six hundred miles,
taking with him all who had any inclination to remove.
And as he had left home in June and intended to return
by the end of the year, it was feared by his brother
Nicholas that he was being detained by Jonker against
his will. In consequence of David's long absence, I
expected to find things in some degree of disorder. My
pleasure and satisfaction, therefore, were great on finding
that though their head was absent, such excellent arrange-
ments had been made, and so faithfully carried out, that
nothing of consequence had been neglected. The ser-
vices had been held by Nicholas, the school daily main-
tained by Jacobus, and the classes regularly met by the
leaders, and on meeting the members, sixty in number,
I was thankful to find that they had advanced rather
than retrograded in their Christian experience and
character. One old woman, referring to our escape
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 225
from the Bushmen, said her heart was full of joy to see
her missionary again ; and when she thought of the
goodness of God in so preserving me, it was " too great "
for her. She had thought what great love the Lord
has for His people. He always knew where they were.
On that long journey He knew where Mynheer was
every day, and He preserved him every day, just as a
man knows where any precious thing is that he has put
into a sack, so that he always knows it is safe, and always
knows where he can find it. (A "sack" is their only
safe.) I returned home on the 21st.
The missionary meeting this year, though held
seemingly at an unpropitious time, proved a success.
Our congregation did not number more than seventy,
yet much interest and feeling were awakened, whilst
I was recounting the chief spiritual and temporal bless-
ings they had received, since the Gospel was first
preached among them. Instead of being involved in
perpetual war with the Afrikaners, tranquillity reigned,
and as the result the population was increased, the men
and women in general lived to a good old age ; their
young men were spared instead of being destroyed by
the ravages of war; their flocks and herds, instead of
being scattered or carried off by marauding bands, had
multiplied. They were now clothed in decent English
clothing, and appeared more like a civilised people than
they had ever done before, &c. Several other speeches
followed from Mr. Macleod, John Ortman, the prin-
cipal councillor, and from old Hendrik, a tall fine old
man. The stately form, and hoary head, and genial
countenance of old Hendrik made him quite a patriarch
amongst the Great Namaquas. The younger people
Q
226 CHAPTER V.
all spoke of and treated him with great respect. He
said:
"It is all true, all true ; it is the very ground of the
truth that Mynheer has spoken. Mynheer has not
said too much : he has spoken less than the truth. I
have not only heard it from others; I have seen it
myself. I was in the middle of it, and so were others
now present. Now, when we are on a journey, we can
unyoke our oxen, or offsaddle, whenever we will, and
can lie down and sleep on the plain wherever we are,
without fear of an enemy. But before the Gospel
came, we were afraid to offsaddle or to sleep on tb.e
plain : we must then seek the mountains and go and
hide ourselves and sleep there. If we were thirsty, we
dare not go to the fountain in the day, but must suffer
thirst, and then, when night came on, we must creep
one by one to the water, and lie on our faces and
drink. Or if we saw the spoor of men, we were so
afraid that we were almost ready to suffer thirst and
die, rather than go and run the risk of being shot.
Then we dare not send our sheep and cows out of our
sight to graze, lest they should be stolen ; but now we
can send them wherever we like : every place is a place
for them now ; and we, too, can go and stay wherever
we will. And every place where we live to-day, and
have our doings, is a place from which we had fled in
former times. But now we live in peace ; and all
this is through the Gospel. Now we have horses and
waggons, and our oxen and sheep are increased ; and
this is all, all through the missionary and the Gospel.
Xow the missionary is our Father. Who else is our
Father? What other Father do you wish to have?
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 227
We also had fathers. I had a father. I was a grown
up young man ; and my father taught me : i If any one
fights you, fight him again ; if any one does you wrong,
do wrong to him again ; what anybody does to you, do
the same to him again.' That was our fathers' teach-
ing; that was the instruction they gave to us. But
now, the missionary is our father ; and he teaches us
to-day what is good, and what is evil, and all that he
teaches us is to keep us from evil. Some there are who
say they don't know whether it is good to have a mis-
sionary meeting, and whether it is right to give their
things : they don't know whether this has been so of
old. But these people are foolish. I have seen many
missionaries, and they have all said the same thing.
And old Albrecht, the first missionary I saw, said:
' Come, let us hold a missionary meeting, and give of
our things, that they may go to the Cape, and be sold,
and by that money we shall help to send other mission-
aries to the heathen.' So that it is an old thing, and
good and right, to give of our goods to help to send the
Gospel to others."
On the previous evening, he said, with reference to
the same period : " Then we dare not take off our
clothes at night when we slept, lest we should be sud-
denly surprised in the night by the enemy. Then,
if we heard a dog bark in the night, we said : ' It is
war ! ' and we instantly made ready to flee. But now
we can sleep in peace, and never think of war. Now,
if we hear the dogs bark in the night, it creates no
alarm ; for we think it is only a jackal, or a wolf, or
may be it is only the missionary with his man and
horses returning from one of his distant visits to the
Q 2
228 CHAPTER V.
people. And I believe that many of us would have died
from hunger if the Gospel had not come and restored
peace, since which our flocks and herds have multiplied."
February 19th. This morning, whilst standing in
the waggon-house making an engagement with a native
builder, a snake that had concealed itself in the crevices
of the stone wall, protruded its head several inches, and
shortly afterwards came completely out ; but on perceiv-
ing me slightly move, it fled to another hole in the wall,
where it remained several minutes without making its
appearance again. There being no possibility of destroy-
ing the reptile in any other way, I went for my fowling-
piece and charged it with small shot. Soon after my
return, on perceiving its head projected about two inches
from the wall, I fired and wounded it in the neck, when
it sprang out of the hole to the ground, where, though
wounded, its activity was great, and we had some
difficulty in despatching it.
March 2nd. This evening the announcement that
an Englishman was at the door, and wished to see me,
produced quite an excitement, being a most extraordinary
occurrence in this land. He was sitting on his ox, with
a brace of pistols in his belt, and his gun on his shoulder.
It was Mr. A. Searle, of Cape Town. About five
months since he had left Cape Town with two waggons,
intending to visit the mouth of the Orange River ; but,
having changed his purpose, he crossed it at some dis-
tance from its mouth, and, travelling northward, passed
the Nisbett Bath Station considerably to the westward.
Mr. Searle stayed with us for the night, and about
half-past six a.m. we left home for a bath. I had
plunged in and swum several times round, and
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 229
whilst we were dressing on the narrow path running
between the surrounding wall and the bath, we heard a
sound, which we thought was occasioned by a stone
thrown over the wall and striking against the opposite
side. A minute or two afterwards we left. We had
not, however, gone more than fifty yards, when we
were startled by a loud rumbling noise, and, on turning
to look, we saw the whole of the bath enveloped in a
cloud of dust. On returning to examine it, we saw
that the heaviest portion of the wall, composed of large
and massive stones, had fallen just at the spot where I had
stood to dress, so that had it occurred two or three
minutes sooner, I must inevitably have been forced into
the water by the weight of the wall, and drowned, being
kept under by the weight, and so bruised as to be quite
unable to make an effort. The outer wall had been
built too near the water, and this gradually sapping the
foundation led to the collapse. God in His mercy
watched over us, and gratefully we exclaim : " Thanks
be unto God, Who delivered us from so great a death."
Soon after breakfast Mr. Searle left on oxback, equipped
in true African style, with a cutlass at his side, a rifle
slung at his back, a brace of pistols in his holsters, and
a white ostrich feather in his hat. In this manner he
travelled to the Bath, having sold one of his waggons,
and sent on the other by a different route to that taken
by himself; and in this manner he left us for the south.
On March 5th, I felt it necessary to leave home on a
visit to our two north-eastern stations of 'Amas and
INieuwe Fontein, and on the afternoon of the third day
reached Wortel. Here I met with the chief Fransman,
and a number of his people, on a journey to my station.
230 CHAPTER V.
His intention was to complain, as he said, before
Abraham, the chief, and myself, of one of our native
assistants, Johannes Gagup, who is stationed, with a por-
tion of his people, at Nieuwe Fontein, at some distance
from the residence of their chief. He accused him of
several things, the most serious of which was that Johannes
had appointed another chief in his place, saying that
Fransman was no longer chief of the 'Karakikooika !
As I was on the way to Johannes' place, I endeavoured
to persuade Fransman to accompany me, when I pro-
mised to investigate the matter. This he was unwilling
to do, and seemed bent on visiting the Bath Station,
and conferring with Abraham, our chief, to whom he
had sent notice of his approach. Why an independent
chief should wish to have such a cause adjudged by the
chief of another tribe, I cannot conceive.
March 8th, Sunday. Still at Wortel. This morn-
ing I preached to a good number from the parable of
the Ten Virgins. Late in the afternoon, to avoid the
great heat, I met about twenty members and had a
close conversation as to their spiritual state, and was
pleased to find that the service in the morning had in-
duced some to search their hearts, " examining them-
selves whether they were in the faith." At about eight
o'clock, by moonlight, I again preached on the General
Resurrection, from John v. 28, 29, when the people
listened with deep solemnity.
This morning, the 10th, we reached 'Amas, an out-
post that is regularly visited ; but as I intend remaining
here a day or two on the return journey, we only rested
two or three hours to refresh ourselves and our oxen.
Soon after we reached the place, Job Witbooi, our
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 231
native teacher, arrived from a village to which he had
gone to hold services with a number of Fransman's
people, who are located temporarily at about fifteen
miles' distance. In this way our native teachers may
be said to go " everywhere preaching the Word,"
sowing the seed of the kingdom, and exercising by their
simple ministrations, and by the piety of their example,
a powerful and very salutary influence upon tlie
people, and that far beyond the range of the outposts
which form their special charge. Before leaving this
.place, myself and Mrs. Ridsdale entered the chapel,
where we found about eighty scholars (for the chapel
serves as a schoolroom too) ; and instantly on our
appearance all order was at an end, all, from the least
unto the greatest, crowding towards us to give us their
salutation. In order to despatch the business, we were
obliged to grasp two or three extended hands at a time,
and that with our left as well as with our right hands.
llth. Whilst the day was yet dark, we commenced
travelling, and at about two o'clock this morning the
oxen, being frightened by some wolves or jackals, con-
cealed amongst bushes, turned abruptly out of the path,
and ran the waggon under a mimosa tree, the low
branches of which tore and much injured the front of the
waggon-sail. We were thankful that the waggon was
not overturned, and a greater injury sustained. At
sunrise we reached a place called Zwaartwater, where
we found about one hundred Bondelzwaarts, amongst
whom regular religious services were kept up and
school held by Abraham Witbooi. At considerable
labour, they have constructed a very tolerable chapel,
and, considering that it is intended necessarily as a tern-
232 CHAPTER V.
porary place of worship, it is especially laudable in them.
Abraham was absent on my arrival, having gone some
distance to hold services on the banks of the Ky 'Kaap.
Before sunset he arrived on oxback, accompanied by
several others ; and in the evening, by the serene light
of the full moon, I held a missionary meeting.
Nieuwe Fontein, Friday, March 13th. Last evening
I reached this place about sunset, and the distance from
Zwaartwater being only short, several of those people
followed us on foot. The people of this place belong to
Fransman's tribe, named the 'Karakikooika. Before
sleeping, I held service with them. This morning,
after all had assembled in the chapel, at the sound of a
koodoo's horn, and I had read and explained a portion
of Scripture, I met twenty-seven of the members,
leaving seventeen women to be met in the afternoon by
Mrs. Ridsdale. During the day a number of people
have arrived from various surrounding parts, having
heard that I was here. Some have come in waggons,
and many more in true native style on oxback, the
women sitting astride their steeds in the same manner
as the men, the use of the side saddle being entirely
unknown amongst the people generally. I believe the
first side saddle was taken to the country by myself;
and whenever used by Mrs. Ridsdale, both she and it
were objects of immense curiosity. In the evening I
again preached to a congregation of more than two
hundred persons.
14th This morning, after the usual service," during
which I baptized eight children, I called together
Johannes Gagup, the native assistant, Jan Koper, the
alleged new chief, and fifteen others, who, as stated by
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 233
Fransman, were all implicated in the same crime, for
the purpose of making known to them the charges
brought against Johannes. Not one of the whole
company knew anything of the " abominable things "
alleged by Fransman to be said and done on the place ;
of the election of a new chief, &c. Indeed, the whole
of the charges were astounding to them, as they neither
knew nor had heard of any of them, till they heard
them from my mouth. And I can easily conceive that
the origin of all Fransman's suspicions is his jealousy
at the flourishing state of the society here, by which a
number of his people are induced to attend the services
held by Johannes, and to settle en this place, instead of
living nearer the chief.
Some time since Fransman came to my station to
ask permission, as he put it, to remove to a considerable
distance north of his present place of residence, and to
take with him Johannes and all the members of society
who formed his special charge. With regard to his
own removal and that of his people who were not mem-
bers, I said I had nothing to do, he might act as he
pleased. But with reference to Johannes and all the
members, I said I must decidedly object, especially as
they were reluctant to leave. If he 'removed them,
which of course he had the power to do, I said it must
be in opposition to my wish ; and were he thus causelessly
to break up a portion of the Church of Christ after so
much labour and expense had been incurred, he would
certainly bring upon himself the Divine displeasure.
He admitted the truth of all I said, but was still bent on
his favourite scheme of removal, which I believe implied
nothing less than the plunder of the lands and cattle of
234 CHAPTER V.
the tribes of Damaraland. On that occasion he remained
for three days at the Bath, visiting me each day in order
to obtain my consent. But as he was unable to extort
a compliance with his wishes, he has become irritated
against Johannes and the members at Nieuwe Fontein,
and ready to receive any idle tale that may be repeated
to their disadvantage. I have no reason to believe that
Fransman is opposed to missionary operations in them-
selves ; he is very anxious to have a missionary of his
own, but he is jealous that so many of his people should
prefer living at such a distance from himself in order
that the} r may become members of Christ's Church, and
enjoy all its privileges. I was, therefore, especially
thankful that none of the charges he has brought against
.this portion of his people have the appearance of truth.
The formal charge has yet to be preferred.
Sunday, 15th. Every day since my arrival in this
place numbers have come from various surrounding
parts, some from a great distance ; and this morning at
about seven o'clock Elias Rolfe, our native teacher at
Bak River, came with about twenty others, men and
women, all riding on oxback. They had left their homes
on Saturday at sunrise, but the distance to this place
being upwards of fifty miles, they were not able to reach
us before this morning, though they had travelled nearly
all the night through. In consequence of the arrival
of so many persons we have had nearly four hundred
people on the place, and the chapel being much too
.small for the congregation, we were obliged to erect a
shade along one side of it to screen some of those who
O
were unable to gain access to the interior. It being
too hot for service in the afternoon, I held none, but
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 235
had the horn blown for the Sunday school ; and whilst
this was being held, I had a conversation with three of
our native teachers, who had met me on this place, ex-
amining them as to their knowledge of the principal
doctrines of Christianity, and giving them some instruc-
tion on the subject of preaching.
Monday, 16th. After the usual short service this
morning at eight o'clock, at which I baptized seven
children and married eight couples, I met forty-three
people in class, which, with the other services, occupied
nearly the whole morning. After a short interval of
rest I met seventeen adult candidates for baptism. This
being concluded, Mrs. R. held a meeting of all the
females on the place, and at an evening service I publicly
baptized the candidates with whom I had conversed
during the afternoon. This day, like every other since
I came, has been one of incessant occupation, and of
much bodily fatigue and exhaustion. Every day has
been so completely filled up from morning to night, that
anything like study, or even reading, has been out of
the question, and literally, on some days, we have
scarcely had time even to eat. The languor and ex-
haustion induced by suoh incessant speaking have often
been distressing ; but still in the pleasure and satisfaction
I have generally enjoyed^I have had sufficient recom-
pense for all my toil.
Tuesday, March 17th. This morning when we were
just ready to take our leave, a man arrived saying that
the two chiefs, Abraham and Fransman, were approach-
ing ; that their coming was " met scherpte," with
severity, Abraham having ordered one of his great men
to be flogged at one of the places through which he had
23G CHAPTER V.
passed. Not being assured of the truth of the report,
I despatched a man on horseback to 'Amas, a distance
of more than forty miles, to ascertain its correctness,
resolved, if it were true, to stay till their arrival, that I
might endeavour to temper the anger of the chieftains,
and defend our native assistant from their wrath in case
the accusations preferred against him should prove false.
At about eleven o'clock at night the messenger returned,
having met with the chiefs at the above-named place.
He states them to be now on their way, accompanied
by a body of men on oxback, armed with guns, so that
we expect their arrival on the morrow.
Wednesday, 18th. At four o'clock this afternoon the
chiefs arrived, preceded by about sixty men on oxback
armed with guns. On the two waggons in which the
chiefs travelled being drawn up at the entrance of the
village, at a distance of six or seven hundred yards
from my own, the oxmen wheeled round in quite a fine
manoeuvre to the rear of the waggons and dismounted.
Soon after, the chiefs left them, and walked at the
head of their men towards mine, when, descending
from it, I went out and met them half way, saluting
each chief, by shaking hands, as usual ; and this cere-
mony being completed, they sat round the front of the
waggon, the chiefs on chairs, and most of the others on
the ground. Just at this moment, a smart clap of
thunder burst over our heads, and a few drops of rain
fell, but subsided as unexpectedly as they came. For
some time all sat in silence, when by degrees they
glided into a familiar conversation, grouping together
into small parties ; but nothing was said on the subject
of their visit till I myself alluded to it. This was just
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 237
as the chiefs were about to return to their waggons for
the night, when I intimated a wish that the accusations
laid against Johannes might be gone into early on the
following morning, as I designed leaving in the after-
noon, my stay having been already protracted two days
beyond what I had intended, solely in consequence of
the reported approach of the chiefs. This being
assented to, they all returned to their encampment at
the entrance of the village.
Thursday, 19th. This morning, just after sunrise,
Abraham sent to inquire whether I intended holding
the usual morning service before the charges were in-
vestigated, to which I replied in the affirmative, and
immediately ordered the horn to be blown. The chapel
was well filled, and both the chiefs attended. On leaving
the chapel and inquiring if they were ready, they said
they were ; but as they wished to have a little private
conversation with me, before entering on the general
business, I accompanied them to a wide-spread camel-
thorn tree, a short distance from the chapel, beneath
the shade of which we seated ourselves : but after some
minutes had passed in silence, and they seemed scarcely
to know how to commence the solicited conversation, I
opened it myself by referring to the serious charges
Fransman had made against the native teacher here, and
the great surprise and grief I had felt on hearing them.
Each of those charges, I said, I wished to be thoroughly
searched into, in order that the innocence or guilt of
Johannes might be clearly established. At this point
Fransman said he wished to see Johannes alone, " that
he might understand the man himself: " and both
chiefs desired that whilst they should converse with him,
238 CHAPTER V.
I would withdraw, adding that if it were found neces-
sary for me to be present, I should be called. As I had
reason to suspect that there was some sinister design in
the request, I resolved not to comply, and instantly said
that as Fransman had brought to me accusations against
Johannes, and as Johannes was appointed to his special
office by the missionary, I must be present at his
examination.
Whilst Johannes himself steadily denied any know-
ledge of the things laid to his charge, Fransman
addressed him at some length and in great anger. But
all present could see there was no real cause for the
exhibition of such a temper; and Abraham, perceiving
its unreasonableness, stepped in as moderator, saying to
his brother chieftain, " Speak softly ; speak according
to justice," when Fransman desisted. After a little
conversation amongst themselves, the two chiefs said
they " found nothing " in Johannes : they acknowledged
that he was " guiltless," and added, " He is now free ;
we have done with him." I therefore arose and said,
as they had discovered no guilt in Johannes, and had
pronounced him free, that was all I wished to know.
I had no desire to be present during their examina-
tion into other matters, and I would therefore leave
the council, which I then did.
At three several times the chiefs wished me to
leave ; but this I steadily refused to do whilst the case
of Johannes was pending, and I am now particularly
thankful that I resolved on remaining till that was
settled.
'Amas. Late last night, 20th, we reached this place,
where our native teacher, Job "\Vitbooi, is stationed.
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 239
The whole of this morning and afternoon I was engaged
meeting the members and candidates, sixty-three in
number, and after the incessant labour I had at JSi ieuwe
Fontein, and the excitement and anxiety connected
with the visit of the chiefs, I felt much exhausted.
The people here are in a distressing state of want, in
consequence of the long-continued drought, and I think
I never saw our native teacher so emaciated. The
Lord has visited the people literally with " cleanness of
teeth," and our native teacher himself stated that, for a
considerable time, he had tasted absolutely nothing in
the shape of food. The only thing by which he had
kept soul and body together for several months was by
eating the gum of the mimosa. u But," as he empha-
tically added, " that is not living, Sir!" Yet, in these
days of famine, he has omitted none of the usual ser-
vices, though I cannot imagine how he has had the
strength to continue them. Nearly all the other people
of the place have long fared no better than himself;
and the only mitigation of their sufferings is an occa-
sional recourse to the pipe, which is literally the shin-
bone of a sheep, into which a few leaves of the tobacco-
plant are thrust, by inhaling the fumes of which, the
keenness of hunger's edge is blunted, and rendered in
some degree tolerable.
Wednesday, 25th. This evening we reached 'Harrees,
v / O 7
but were grieved to find only a few houses, instead of
the large number we had expected. We were consoled,
however, by witnessing an answer to our prayers in one
respect. The sky was covered with dark and massive
clouds, a delightful prospect in this dry and burning
land : the red lightnings darted and glared incessantly
240 CHAPTER V.
from every quarter of the darkened heavens ; whilst
the thunder burst in rapid and terrific peals over our
heads, so that our waggon and the very earth quailed
under its reverberations. Our only habitation was our
waggon : yet we felt no alarm, knowing the Lord of the
tempest to be our defence. At length the thick clouds
were rent asunder, and the danger from the electric fluid
diminished by the descent of floods of rain upon the
scorched and thirsty earth. Our hearts beat high
with gratitude and delight, and we were lulled into a
sweet slumber by the music of its descent upon the
tilt-sail of our waggon during the whole night. This
morning I called together the few persons on the place,
and held a short service with them. Here I found
Hans Jager, one of the chief's Raadsmen, who, being
somewhat turbulent, had made himself offensive to the
chief, who had ordered him to be held down by four
men and flogged. I found him scarcely able to move
yet, from the severity of the strokes he had received ;
expressed my sorrow at his sufferings, and gave him
some friendly counsel as to the future. He seemed
pleased at the call, and appeared to receive my counsel
in a right spirit.
Friday, 27th. Reached home at noon to-day after an
absence of rather more than three weeks, and was
exceedingly thankful to find that abundant rains have
fallen all around the neighbourhood of the station.
There are very few families remaining, most having
left with their sheep and cattle, in order to prevent the
new grass being consumed as soon as it appears. For
the same reason the chief has removed to a distance of
about twentv miles from the station : but in six or eight
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 241
weeks he will return, and numbers of people from all
sides will flock to the place.
After remaining some days at home, the fewness of
the people affording a good opportunity, I again left
on a visit to Blydeverwachting.
After remaining nine days, I again left and reached
home on the 14th instant. Since the late rains, our
journeys have been enlivened by vast numbers of spring-
boks, gemsboks, zebras, quaggas, and ostriches, which
all in turn inspect and then take fright at our waggon,
as it travels slowly over the grassy plains. In addition
to the jackals, wolves, and tigers that are already nume-
rous, wild dogs and lions will before long follow in the
rear, all u seeking their meat" from the beautiful and
harmless animals of the plains. About six months
since, springboks being abundant, two large male lions
appeared, and were shot, not far from the station, one of
the skins of which was brought to me as a present.
On Tuesday, April 28th, I left home on horseback
about an hour and a half before sunset, travelled about
fifteen miles, and slept outside a village where some of
our people were " lying," with the intention of being
some distance on the way when we should resume our
journey in the morning. At sunrise 1 arose and, after
a drink of milk, left. It Droved to be a very hot close
day, thunder filling the air, and our poor horses being
covered with sweat, as if lathered all over with soap-
suds, the hot steam from their bodies made it almost
unbearable to the riders. At noon we offsaddled at a
large shallow " vlei," or rain pool. Here I ate about
an ounce of cold mutton, and drank all the water in
my bottle. We derived a little shelter from a low bush,
R
242 CHAPTER V.
beneath which we rested, and where I scribbled a few
pencil notes of my journey. After a long rest, owing to
the oppressiveness of the weather, we left at half-past
three, expecting to reach 'Amas at a little after sunset.
We travelled on till dark, when, finding from the posi-
tion of the moon that we were going altogether in a
wrong direction, we resolved to remain where we were
till the light of the next day should enable us to judge
more accurately of our position. My lips were parched
with thirst, my head felt twice its usual weight; we had
no water for tea, for, being certain of reaching 'Amas
by abont dark, we had omitted to replenish our water
bottle at the " vlei." I had no inclination to eat, and
was so wearied out that I was unable to do anything
but lie down just as I was, on the bare ground, without
making loose my kaross. After a time, finding the
ground rather cold with the dew that had fallen, I
aroused myself and attempted to loosen my kaross, but
in the act of stooping I was sei/.ed with a fit of vomit-
ing, after which I obtained some relief. On spreading
my kaross and preparing for the night, another fit of
vomiting seized me, when exhausted I lay, and wrapped
myself in my kaross, and soon fell into a dreamy
slumber, my mouth dry and hot, and my whole body
burning with fever.
During my slumber I imagined some one bringing
me a vessel of frothy milk just drawn from the cow ;
but before I could partake of the delicious draught, a
slight shivering coldness, accompanied by a fit of retching,
aroused me from my slumbers. Several times during
tho night I was awoke by the same cause, and some-
times the retching was very distressing. And it was
TOILS AND TEIUMPHS. 243
specially disagreeable to be obliged to sleep again with-
out a drop of water to quench the burning thirst. At
daybreak I arose, when we were both confirmed in our
belief that we were in the wrong path, and travelling on
the road leading from 'Amas to Blydeverwachting.
Just as the sun appeared above the horizon we mounted
our horses to retrace our steps. My head was light and
dizzy, for I had eaten only an ounce of food since the
noon of the previous day, and that had all been ejected ;
and as my somewhat wild horse bore me along, I was
so weak as to be scarcely able to sit him. For safety's
sake I directed my man to travel in front, my horse
being exceedingly apt to shy, and I felt that, should he
do so at such a time, I should certainly be thrown.
For t\vo hours we travelled hard over a good road, and
were then just as much at a loss to know the exact
position of 'Amas as at starting. We had just resolved
on going about an hour's ride further to a village, the
dust of which we had seen to our left on the previous
afternoon, when my man, who had eyes like a telescope,
discovered some oxen. Before I could make out the
oxen, he had made a more important discovery, and
exclaimed, " I see a man ! " At once we rode to him,
and to our astonishment and joy we found it to be one
of our Nisbett Bath people,- who, with his family and a
few others, had come to this neighbourhood for the sake
of grass and water for their flocks and herds. He directed
us to his father's place, which we found, after about a
ten minutes' ride, along the sandy bed of a small periodical
river. Here our first call was for water, not having
tasted a drop since the previous midday ; and whilst we
yet sat in our saddles, a bamboos full was brought ; but
E 2
244 CHAPTER V.
the glands of my throat were so swollen with feverish -
ness and long- continued thirst, that I was not able to
swallow a drop. So I ordered my little copper travelling
kettle to be filled and put on the fire, in which, as soon
as it boiled, I made some weak tea, with copious draughts
of which myself and my companion were soon refreshed.
As soon as that repast was finished, I stretched myself
on my kaross on a clean mat laid by my friends under
a shady shrub, and slept soundly for more than an hour :
then, calling for water, shaved and washed under the
privacy afforded by some bushes, and felt unspeakably
restored and refreshed.
Friday. Having slept out for the third night in suc-
cession, I was roused by the galloping of my horses,
which Adam was bringing to me in all haste, and was
greeted with the howling of some wild beast ; and on
asking Adam what it was, he answered, looking very
serious, " That's a tiger, Sir." From the sound of his
voice the animal was certainly not more than three
hundred yards distant ; so I said, " Then the sooner
we're off the better." My horse was soon saddled and
bridled, but as Adam had not only his own horse to
saddle and bridle, but the pack-horse to make ready, he
was longer, and meantime I kept a look-out. However,
the beast never left cover so as to show himself, though
he kept up a continuous howl ; and when we wished him
good morning and rode away, he still kept up his
"morning carol," though he neither alarmed nor grati-
fied us by a sight of his person. At about eight we
arrived at the Ky 'Kaap River, took our simple but
refreshing breakfast, left at nine, and reached Xieuwe
Fontein at ten o'clock.
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 24")
May 2nd. At half-past two p.m. yesterday we left
for Stof Kraal, Elias's place, and came by the new path
he has made. At about five we offsaddled for a short
time, and then resumed, riding on and on till we were
stiff and out of patience, wondering when we should
recognise any part of the country I had previously seen
in travelling to this place. Nothing appearing, we
travelled on till about ten o'clock, when we came in
sight of a hill, beneath the shoulder of which I believed
Stof Kraal to lie. Yet we saw and heard nothing that
could lead us to suppose that any one was living there.
" Here," I said, " we will offsaddle for the night ; " and
just when our karosses were spread, and we were ready
to sleep, we heard a cow lowing in the distance, from
which we concluded the village to be a little further
forward. Worn out with fatigue, we soon fell asleep ;
but whilst it was yet very early in the morning, and
dark, the voice of prayer was heard amongst the grass
.and low bushes, the first real indication we had of the
vicinity of human beings ; and in such a place it sounded
peculiarly grateful, when neither missionary nor native
assistant was in their midst; for by hearing it under
such circumstances I was persuaded that prayer was
engaged in for the love of it, and not made to attract
the attention of the missionary, whom they supposed
to be at his station a hundred and fifty miles away, but
to gain the ear of God. At sunrise all the bustle of a.
native village was heard the lowing of calves and
cows, the bleating of flocks, the barking of dogs, and the
shouting of men a perfect contrast to the stillness of
the night. Our horses were soon saddled, when, riding
up to one or two men we saw near the village, we found
246 CHAPTER V.
it was not the residence of Ellas, but only a cattle post
belonging to him and his people, he and they having
come nearer than Stof Kraal, and being now at Molk-
boom River. So after a good draught of milk, which
we took as we sat on our horses, and saluting all 'the
people at hand without telling them that we had encamped
outside their village, we rode forward, and in an hour
and a half reached the place a nest of green grass,
and green bushes in abundance, encircled with high
and noble mountains, whose sides and tops are clothed
with verdure, the river running along the base of the
mountains. Late last night, as we travelled, a zebra
from a high krantz, hearing the clatter of our horses 1
hoofs amongst the stones, saluted his supposed mates with
a shrill short whistle, which I should not have recognised
as the neighing of a zebra but for my man. At Elias's a
new house was awaiting my arrival, clean, comfortable,
and orderly, qualities that were always highly acceptable
to me, never more so than when among the natives.
Sunday, May 3rd. A day that the Lord has made.
This is true in the general sense, but also in its special
signification ; for, being without a chapel, in consequence
of this not being a fixed out-station, and also, and
chiefly, because of the recent coming of the people, we
should have felt it very severe to assemble to worship
under the beams of a burning, cloudless sun. But God
mercifully " covered the heavens with clouds," so that
we were enabled to worship in comfort, .screened by the
cooling canopy. My subjects for the (lav were " the
Ten Talents'' and " the General Resurrection." At night
we assembled by firelight in our circular but roofless
chapel, and had some conversation with twenty-eight
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 247
persons who had long boon candidates for baptism ar.d
membership. Having been under the instruction of
Elias already, this was immediately preparatory to the
administration of the rite.
Monday, 4th. This morning, at the close of the
service, I baptized twenty-eight adults and thirteen
children, and married four couples. Afterwards I met
thirty-one members in class, which kept me closely
engaged till half-past eleven. After a short rest, and
taking some refreshment, the day being cool, clouded,
and slightly rainy, we saddled up, and at half-past
twelve left, and, the horses travelling briskly, we reached
Nieuwe Foutein at nine o'clock p.m. Many had retired
for the night, but hearing of our arrival they aroused
themselves, and by half-past ten our new house was
constructed, and by eleven we lay down to rest.
Anxious to reach home, after holding a morning
service at this place, and attending to sundry Society
matters, we again left for 'Amas, Johannes accompany-
ing us on the new road he had made for the first two
hours, when, having come through the " poort," or
opening between the shoulders of a hill, we reached the
great waggon path. This road is much shorter than
the old path, as we reached 'Amas in five hours, though
for the first two hours we__pnly travelled at good walk-
ing pace, to adapt ourselves to the rate of our com-
panion, who rode on oxback. Beached Job's place at
seven, and as we were unexpectedly soon, the house
was not made. But by the diligence of several native
women, one was very soon extemporised over one of the
hardest and best floors I have seen, and before long the
village was all silent and wrapped in slumber.
248 CHAPTER V.
Thursday, 7th. I was much pleased by observing
the great improvement in the singing. Held a service
in the morning, met the members, and had a conversa-
tion with Job respecting several Society matters, and
examined the school.
Friday, 8th. After holding the morning service,
and meeting the remaining members, we started for
home at half-past nine. The sun was not hot, mid-
winter approaching, a fresh and rather cold wind was
blowing from the south, and our horses, full of mettle,
were ready to scour over the plain at good speed ; so we
gave them the rein, and after travelling at a rattling
pace for some time, rejoicing in their might, we reined
in a little and took it more gentlv, when all at once mv
O / / -
man exclaimed: " Sir, I see a waggon!" Having on
many occasions before had proof of his superior vision,
I could not disbelieve ; but after deliberately gazing in
the direction to which he pointed, all I could do was to
confess that I did not see it. Once more our horses
resumed a rapid pace, shortly after which the man
exclaimed : " It looks just like master's new waggon."
This I thought out of the question; besides, it seemed
impossible to discriminate with so much nicety what I
was as yet unable to detect at all. As we drew rearer,
he insisted that it must be my new waggon ; but I felt
sure that no native would venture to ask for its use ;
or, if he should do so, that Mrs. Ridsdale would never
comply with such a request. Still, our horses advancing
at a smart canter, once more he said : " I see a man :"
and soon after, " I see a maid with a child in her arms."
I could now unmistakably see the waggon ; but all the
rest I had to take on trust. Meantime I was extremely
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 249
puzzled and perplexed. Again he cried, (i I see
Martha," our servant, " and master's child." Every
moment brought us nearer, and the event proved the
truth of Adam's statement, and the astonishing accuracy
of his vision, even at a distance at which my own was
perfectly useless. As we neared the spot I saw all as
he had done long before, and at length my wife was
seen to descend from the waggon, that she might
welcome her husband in the heart of the desert. Whilst
yet the mystery was unsolved as to what had brought
her to such a spot, I ordered the man to take off
saddles, and bridles, and pack from the horses, and
liberate them at once, when at their own leisure they
grazed by the way, making towards the fountain on the
station, yet many miles distant, and we heard and saw
nothing more of them till they were required for another
journey.
Meantime, my first anxiety was to know what had
induced my wife to venture on so novel an expedition.
That was soon learnt. The losing of our path, and the
severe attack of sickness that had followed the exposure
to the terrible heat to which we had been subjected,
which we had fondly imagined would never be known
till our return, had come to the knowledge of my wife
several days before. Next^jnorning she despatched a
man to the plains to seek the oxen, and whilst waiting
for their coming, a selection of medicines was made
from the medicine chest, and, all being ready, she
started in the direction by which she expected her
husband to return, ready to minister to his needs should
she succeed in finding him. For two nights she tra-
velled over the plains, a sharp look-out being kept by
250 CHAPTER V.
the men for our return. On the third morning, fearing
that we might have travelled by another course home-
ward, she commenced the return ; and in the early
afternoon of that day, having outspanned on a gradual
ascent of the road, all eyes were directed to the quarter
from which they hoped we might possibly come ; and
Jan Rammard, the waggon-driver, scrutinising with
eagle eye every object in the distance, at length cried :
" I think I sec a dust, mistress ; " a few minutes en-
abled him to speak with certainty. Awhile he kept
silent, and then once more he exclaimed : " I see three
horses ; it must be master." We in time came near
enough for all to see for themselves, and soon we were
in the midst of them ; the kettle was boiling on the h're,
tea was awaiting us in the midst of the wilderness, and
so unexpected a pleasure was greatly enjoyed. The
medicines might have been "cast to the dogs;" and
finding us well and in excellent spirits, all the solicitudes
of my brave wife Avere dismissed and her heart was
at rest.
On July 28th Mr. Macleod, whom I had found in-
valuable as a schoolmaster, and as one I could always
leave Avith confidence in charge of the station, Avhcn
obliged to be absent, left for Cape Town, chiefly to
obtain supplies for himself; but I aA-ailed myself of this
opportunity of sending off' the missionary subscriptions
of the Great Namaquas of my circuit for the two past
years 1845 and 1846. They consisted of thirty-two
oxen, two cows, two calves, four hundred and ninety-
eight sheep and goats, besides ostrich feathers, antelope
skins, ox hides, samboks, bambooses, &c., Avhicli Avould
all have to be disposed of to the Dutch farmers along
TOILS AKD TRIUMPHS'. 251
the road, or in the market at Cape Town; contributions
which I think highly creditable to our people.
August 4th. Mr. Haddy, his wife and son, reached
our station from Uamaraland, having left his mission
with Jonker Afrikaner two months ago. Notwith-
standing the length and tedium of the journey, they are
all in the enjoyment of good health, and anticipate
resuming their work as soon as they can return to
the station. But the length of the journey involves a
terrible expenditure of precious time. After a rest of
only one week, they bade us adieu amidst our good
wishes and prayers, and proceeded to Cape Town.
About this time Frederick Buys visited the station
with his wife and family, and their provisions failing on
the road, he felt that his only resource was an earnest
prayer to Almighty God that He would send some wild
animal within the range of his gun. For some time he
and his family were in great distress for want of food ;
but waiting confidently for the answer to his prayer,
and scrutinising every object on the plains with his keen
vision, he at length detected in the distance a zebra.
Approaching, by creeping on his hands and knees, and
availing himself of the shelter of any bush that might
occur between himself and the animal, he at length came
within what he considered safe shooting distance ; when,
touching the trigger, the game was struck and fell, and
at once his heart bounded with joy because relief had
come to his family, a relief which was manifestly an
answer to prayer. It was a young animal, in good
condition, and unusually delicious. He arrived at the
station during my own dinner time, bringing, as a
souvenir, a small portion of zebra flesh ; so, setting aside
252 CHAPTER V.
the mutton off which I was dining, and which was an
everlasting dish, I partook of the zebra flesh instead,
partly as a rarity, but also because of its own juicy
and excellent nature.
To-day, September 25th, I had some conversation
with Frederick Buys, whom I appointed neai'ly two
years since to hold services amongst a number of Bush-
men. After some encouraging signs of the blessing of
the Lord on his efforts, and many discouraging cir-
cumstances, those hapless Bushmen threw off all restraint,
resumed their former habits, and are now scattered in
all directions. During his residence amongst them one
died, who, previously to his last sickness, had become en-
lightened in some measure, and manifested earnest de-
sires for salvation. After much and patient instruction,
Frederick thought there was hope in his death ; and this
was a source of much consolation to him, for it proved
to him that though, owing to their extreme ignorance
and to the wildness of their habits, they are difficult
to reclaim, even Bushmen are included amongst " the
redeemed of the Lord." Our conversation to-day
related chiefly to his being stationed amongst the Ycl-
schoen Draagers. They have been regularly visited by
Elias Rolfe, from his outpost, and it is not long since
I baptized twelve persons who had been candidates for
many months ; but occasional visits, and such services
as they have had, have only awakened desires for con-
stant instruction, and fresh requests have recently
reached me from the chief. Frederick Buys, being no
longer required by the Bushmen, is now at my disposal ;
and, as he is perfectly willing, I have resolved to send
him. His wife is like-minded, and desirous to be
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 253
engaged in the work of the Lord. I have engaged to
meet him ten days hence at our most distant outpost,
that together we may see the chief of the Velschoen
Draagers, preparatory to his appointment to reside with
him and his people.
Sunday, 27th. In the afternoon I held a love-feast,
when some very satisfactory and interesting statements
were made. Amongst those who spoke was Frederick
Buys, who said, in anticipation of his being appointed
to labour amongst the Velschoen Draagers, that be was
willing to go wherever the Lord should direct ; and that
if he were certain that he should meet with death itself
in the execution of his Christian duty, he should not
for a moment hesitate : his purpose was fixed. This
was not the effervescence of youthful zeal, but the
matured and calm determination of a man of forty,
who has a wife and many children. I was rejoiced
to hear so many testify of the grace of God, some
of whom are the seals of the late Rev. E. Cook's
ministry.
Monday, October 5th. At Nieuwe Fontein, nearly
the whole day was employed in meeting the members. I
had a sorrowful task to perform in the expulsion of
fourteen members who had disgraced their character and
religion by dancing according to their former custom.
So severe a stroke I never before found it necessary to
inflict since I came to Africa ; but as I have lately
heard of many dances amongst the unconverted natives,
I was resolved, if possible, to make a salutary impression
on the minds of ail by cutting off from the church
those members who had become the first ao-ffressors.
C5O
May God give them repentance. At night conducted
2")4 CHAPTER V.
public worship, and was much moved at the distress
manifested by many of the people at the act of disci-
pline just exercised. I have no doubt the effect will be
very wholesome.
Tuesday, 6th. Early this morning we proceeded to
Kroon Kran'fz, where Elias Rolfe, our native assistant,
is living. After passing through some most rugged ly
romantic scenery, we reached it soon after dark,
though too late for any public service. This was the
place at which I had appointed to meet Frederick Buys ;
and, faithful to his engagement, he had arrived, and
came with Elias to meet us on our approach.
7th. This morning I despatched a messenger to
Hendrik Hendriks, the chief of the Yelschoen Draagers,
to announce our arrival at this place, and to request him
to visit us, that I mi<jht converse with him on the
" O
subject of having a native teacher appointed to labour
amongst his people. Held a short service at about
eight o'clock, and then met the members ; after which I
met, in order to converse specially with, the native
assistant and class leaders. At night I preached on the
humiliation and exaltation of the Redeemer.
<Sth. As soon as I arose this morning, which was
with the sun, I heard that the chief of the Velschoen
Draagers had arrived. At eight o'clock I commenced
our missionary meeting, at which, besides myself, Elias
Rolfe and Frederick Buys spoke; and at the close
twenty sheep and goats were promised, besides four young
oxen and a few antelope skins. In the afternoon Mrs.
R. met all the females on the place to impart such in
struction on their duties in general as they need. At
the same time I had a special conversation with the
TOILS AXD TRIUMPHS. 255
chief of the Velschoen Draagers, stating that in case of
a teacher being appointed to live with him it would be
necessary to choose such a place of residence as will
afford sufficient grass and water for the sheep and cattle
of a large number of his people, so as to receive con-
stant instruction ; that the native teacher must have
unrestrained liberty to visit any portion of his people,
at any time, in order to hold religious services ; and
that the chief must not imagine he was conferring any
favour by allowing the Gospel to be admitted amongst
his people, but rather should esteem it a high honour
and unspeakable privilege to have it offered for his own
and his people's acceptance. After he had distinctly
assented to each of these propositions, I stated that it
was determined that Frederick Buys should return
home and make preparations for his new sphere, and in
about a month remove his wife and family, his habita-
tion and goods, to the village of the chief; when, in
order to facilitate his movements, the chief promised to
assist him with a waggon, in addition to his own. In
the evening I held service as usual.
9th. At about seven o'clock this morning we took
our leave, and proceeded on our journey to Nieuwe
Fontein. Whilst travelling through a wild and rocky
ravine, we came upon a siruill village, consisting chiefly
of members under the care of Johannes, by whom we
were informed that on the same day that we passed on
our way to Kroon Krantz, a lion was seen on the side
of one of the adjoining mountains, following zebras,
and was supposed still to be in the neighbourhood.
We expected to see his majesty before completing our
journey, but were not permitted to enjoy the privilege.
256 CHAPTER V.
This is the ninth lion of which we have heard within
the last four weeks, an unusual number for this part of
the country, where powder and lead are so abundant.
Two were shot by the chiefs sons about three weeks
since. We arrived at Nieuwe Fontein late at night.
10th. During the short service this morning a most
gracious influence descended, and a spirit of mourning
seemed to be imparted to all. One man remained after
the congregation was dismissed, overwhelmed with grief
on account of those who had fallen and been cut off
from membership with the church. He could only sob
and weep ; utterance was completely taken away by the
depth of his emotion. About an hour after I went out
to take a solitary walk along the side of the rocky
mountain that towers above the village, when I heard
indistinctly a subdued voice of mourning and supplica-
tion. At first I could not discover any one, but at length
saw amidst the loose rocks an individual prostrate on
his hands and knees, with his head bowed to the very
dust, pouring out his soul in prayer. His hat was
placed on a large stone by his side, a little circumstance,
but still one that pleasingly indicated the reverence of
his spirit. As I passed softly on through the sand, lest
I should disturb him in his devotions, I was not per-
ceived, but my heart was filled with thankfulness to see
that God's Spirit was producing the right effect on the
minds of those who still retained their place as members
of the church. This humiliation amongst the people I
regarded as a sign of the speedy restoration and exalta-
tion of those who have fallen, and I rejoiced to think of
the words of Eliphaz : " He woundeth, and His hands
make whole." In about half an hour I passed again by
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 257
the same route, on my return to the village, and, to my
surprise, I found the man in precisely the same position,
but praying still more earnestly, and in tones so implor-
ing and pathetic as quite affected me. It was then only
that I discovered him to be the same person that was so
overcome with sorrow in the chapel at the morning ser-
vice. I expounded a portion of Scripture again at night.
Sunday, llth. The early prayer meeting was held
as usual at sunrise. At about 9 a.m. I preached on
Psalm li. 14, with special reference to those on whom
it had been necessary to exercise discipline, and during
the service a solemn and fixed attention was manifested.
In the afternoon I spoke on the influences of the Holy
Spirit. The services of the day were closed by a
prayer meeting at night.
12th. Having published during the previous week
that I should hold the missionary meeting on this day,
I held it accordingly. It proved the most productive
of any missionary meeting I had held on this place ; for,
out of a congregation of about eighty people, we had
promised six young oxen, four cows, five calves, thirty
young goats, five sheep, besides a few ostrich feathers,
antelope skins, shoe soles and samboks. Such a degree
of liberality I had never witnessed in so small a con-
gregation. In the afternoon we left, and travelled home-
ward by a new path whictrthe people were still busily
engaged in making, in order to shorten, as much as
possible, the long journeys we must take before we can
reach them.
15th. This morning we reached Nisbett Bath, having
travelled hard since Monday. In the afternoon I had
an opportunity of conversing with our chief, when I
s
258 CHAPTER T.
spoke to him faithfully of his rejection of the Gospel,
and of the pain it gave me to see him unaffected, while
so many of his own, and of surrounding tribes, had
received it to their salvation. I afterwards learnt that
several of the members had been expostulating with him
on the same subject. One old man, Old Hendrik,
said : " It was you who first requested to have the
Gospel, but now that it is come you receive it not.
Many are nourished by it, but you are hungered. It is
just as if you had slaughtered an ox, and distributed it
amongst us until it was all given away, and you yourself
had nothing to eat."
26th. This morning, at nine o'clock, our missionary
meeting commenced, and though I feared the contribu-
tions would be small, my fears were not realised. The
contributions are, in fact, larger than I have ever
received at any meeting held on the station since my
arrival ; a success which is perhaps chiefly attributable
to the spirited, earnest, and convincing speeches de-
livered by three of our aged and leading members. On
this occasion were promised eight young oxen, two
cows, seven calves, seventy-five sheep and goats, five
bambooses, besides samboks and skins of wild animals.
Three or four years ago it was no great sacrifice for
these people to give an ox or sheep occasionally, when
no other demands were made on their possessions ; but
now that so much traffic is carried on in the land by
traders, and wants are felt that were never before ex-
perienced, and which have to be supplied by exchanging
their sheep and cattle for goods of European manufac-
ture, one sheep or ox is worth as much as eight or ten
were a few years ago.
TOILS AND TEIUMPHS. 259
November 5th. At four p.m. I mounted my horse,
and, accompanied by my man, commenced my journey
to Blydeverwachting. With the exception of a short
interval of rest, during which we turned our horses to
graze, we travelled till half-past ten, intending when
we left home to travel all the night, as we had heard of
lions being in the vast plain across which we had to
travel, and we deemed it better to keep in motion.
The weather, however, was so extremely oppressive,
that we seemed unable to travel farther, and I felt that,
lions or no lions, I must sleep. So, hoping that if they
were anywhere in the plains, they might be a long dis-
tance from us, we offsaddled, boiled our kettle, drank
some tea, and, committing ourselves to the care of Him
Who " neither slumbers nor sleeps," spread our karosses
upon the sand, and lay down for the night. For some
hours I slept soundly, when I was awaked by the howl
of some wild beast. Not knowing what it was, I called
to Adam, who was half a dozen yards off. I had to
call several times before he was aroused, when, suddenly
starting up on all fours, his kaross hanging down to the
ground on all sides, " Yes, Sir," said he, in rather an
alarmed way, and looking very much like a wild beast
himself. " What is that sound ? " I said. After listen-
ing a moment or two, again it was heard. " That's a
wolf, Sir." " 0, then, lie down and go to sleep," I
said, which he did very quickly ; after which we had
no further disturbance. At about four o'clock the day
broke, and we resumed our journey till about seven
o'clock, when, the sun being very hot, we dismounted at
the 'Amse River, where we obtained an abundant supply
of delicious water, on digging about a foot deep
s 2
2GO CHAPTER V.
in the loose sand of the bed of the river, boiled our
kettle, and refreshed ourselves with breakfast. As it
was insufferably hot, we were compelled to pass the
remainder of the day under the shade of the aged
mimosas that line the banks of the river. However,
being anxious to proceed, at four p.m. we remounted
our steeds, though the earth was still glowing with
intense heat, and, after travelling three hours more,
reached the Afrikaners about an hour after sunset.
7th. Held a short service this morning at eight, and
then met all the members on the place. In the evening
I held another short service. During the day five
w r aggons, filled with people from the surrounding parts,
arrived in the village, together with a number of others,
mounted and on foot, messengers having been despatched
to announce that the missionary had come.
Monday, 9th. Yesterday being the Sabbath, I
baptized eight infants, and preached morning and
evening. After the latter service I met about thirty
members, when I was completely exhausted with the
heat and labour.
This morning, at about seven, the horn was blown as
a summons for the people to the missionary meeting.
Three of our principal men addressed the congregation
besides myself, and the results were very encouraging,
surpassing those of the preceding years. On this
occasion were contributed two oxen, one cow, two
calves, forty -nine sheep and goats, one hundred and
eleven ostrich feathers, and nine shillings in money,
which the owner presented " if it icas of any use" for
it was of no use to him in a country where no coin was
current. At the close of this meeting I publicly united
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 2G1
ten couples in Christian marriage. They were all elderly
people who have long lived together as husbands and
wives, but, being now admitted into the Church of
Christ, they renewed and confirmed their previous en-
gagement on Christian principles.
10th. Yesterday at four p.m. I took my farewell of
the people at Blydeverwachting ; but we soon had cause
to regret having left so soon, as the burning sun glaring
full upon our faces from the west, and the hot winds
issuing from the same quarter and blowing upon us as
from a furnace, produced violent headache, and such a
feeling of suffocation as was scarcely to be endured.
On resting and drinking copious draughts of weak tea
we felt refreshed ; and in order to escape the sun's
intense heat the next day, we travelled hard almost the
whole night, and at a quarter to nine this morning we
reached home, having been much longer on the journey
than we were in general, owing to the close and suffo-
cating state of the weather. How strange it seems !
but in this climate, especially after a night of travel,
we fear the approach of the sun to the horizon, more
than we should fear the approach of a demon, so deadly
is the exhaustion it produces.
In the last month of this year I wrote to the mis-
sionary secretaries, and as the letter presents a general
view of the mission, a few extracts from it may suitably
close the year 1846.
" For the last several months we have had at least
five hundred persons resident on the station, and on
this, as on every former occasion, when there has been
sufficient rain and pasturage to allow of their collecting
in any considerable numbers, we have been delighted at
262 CHAPTER V.
the evident influence the Word has produced on their
minds. The most interested and earnest attention is
depicted on every countenance, whilst frequently their
dark eyes glisten with delight, or express the serious
concern and solemnity of their feelings, as the various
truths of the Gospel are unfolded to their view and
applied to their consciences. And when the services of
the sanctuary are closed, they may frequently be seen
sitting in groups near the chapel, conversing together
on such parts of the sermon as have most particularly
arrested their attention. It is very refreshing to
myself and Mrs. Ridsdale to meet our classes, as then
we see most decidedly their improvement in grace and
knowledge. The references there made to the instruc-
tion that has been administered either in sermons, or in
the regular morning exposition of Scripture, are often
very intelligent, and sometimes remarkably striking :
so that though w r e often go to those means with a feeling
of languor and exhaustion, we often return refreshed
and quickened in spirit. Never did we experience
more pure spiritual enjoyment, even in our delightful
class meetings in England, than wo do whilst listening
to the simple and artless, but sincere and intelligent,
Christian experience of many of our Namaqua members.
We feel that they are ' fellow heirs, and of the same
body, and partakers of His promise in Christ by the
Gospel.'
" Our Sabbath worship begins at early dawn, for at
sunrise the natives hold a prayer meeting conducted by
one of themselves. In the morning and evening I
preach, beginning early in the former case, and late in
the latter, to avoid as much as possible the great heat
TOILS AND TRIUMPHS. 263
of the day ; and in the afternoon the Sunday school is
held, which is attended by old and young, and by the
members generally, both male and female. All the
drudgery of learning to read is omitted on that day, and
is reserved for the week days. Those who belong to
the Bible class read the chapter from which the morning
text is taken, and are then examined on the sermon ;
whilst those who are not far advanced sit in small
circles, with a teacher appointed to each, who endeavours
to impress on their minds those parts of the sermon he
can best remember or best converse on ; and at the close
of this part of the school duties, a short account of the
lives and deaths of pious children is read. In this way
the Memoir of Christopher Dove has been read, and
various selections from the Child's Magazine, &c., &c. By
this course of instruction the Sabbath school is rendered
as profitable to the children as the other services are to
the adult hearers, and it is equally appreciated by young
and old.
" In taking a view of the circuit generally I am much
pleased and encouraged at the advancement that has
been made, not only by the Gospel, but l>y civilisation,
its natural accompaniment and result. In various parts
of the circuit we see ' temples of His grace ' standing
that have been raised bymen who build nothing for
themselves, who are content to dwell in houses made of
light reed matting, and who are naturally averse to
everything laborious. Yet their chapels have cost them
much labour and expense too, and have been erected
without any assistance from the society, or even from
the missionary, save that which arises from his encourage-
ment and approbation. True, they are not buildings to
264 CHAPTER V.
be scrutinised by the eye of the architect, but they arc,
nevertheless, decent and seemly, and are alike honour-
able to the judgment and ability of those who have
engaged in their erection. In several parts of the circuit,
at the expense of great labour, new roads have been
made, and old ones shortened and improved. We have
read to them the language of the prophet : ' Prepare ye
the way of the Lord, make straight in the desert a
highway for our God ; ' and in a very literal sense they
have done so. By these improvements the circuit is
considerably diminished in its extent, and we are enabled
to reach our most distant outposts with much more
comfort than formerly, and with a considerable saving
of time. The dress also and general habits of the people
have become greatly altered for the better. The native
costume is entirely laid aside on the principal station,
and by the majority at the outposts. The change is,
in many instances, the result of Christian principle, for
we have laboured to make them perceive and feel the
connection between a demoralised appearance and
immoral conduct. Many have, therefore, acted in this
matter from a conviction of its propriety, and of the
incongruity with their Christian character of their former
indecent and filthy habits."
CHAPTER VI.
JOYS AND SORROWS.
JANUARY, 1847. Early in this month Mr. Macleod
returned in safety from his long journey to the Cape,
having left at the end of July, and being obliged to
travel slowly, in consequence of having the missionary
subscriptions with him for 1844 and 1845. The
amount obtained for the Society was as follows : For
oxen, 55 4s. ; sheep and goats, 110 18s. ; skins,
7 10s. ()d. ; ostrich feathers, &c., 1.9 Is. 9d. :
making a total of 193 Os. 3d. The expenses amounted
only to 2 8s. (>d., leaving as clear contributions the
sum of 190 11s. 9d. for the two years. This is a
truly noble amount, considering all the circumstances
of the case.
Since the sale of the above subscriptions, the meetings
for 1846 have also been completed, and have proved
even more productive than either of the former years.
The total amount of things promised is : 232 sheep and
goats, twenty-two oxen, seven cows, two heifers, twenty
calves, six bambooses, twenty- two pairs of shoe soles,
six skins, and 138 ostrich feathers ; which, at a mode-
rate calculation, I estimate will bring in 140 or 150
for the one year. These very liberal contributions
proceed not from a people who are living in abun-
dance, but from those who, during a great part of
the year, are in extreme need, and who often
266 CHAPTER VI.
lead what appears to us, who have no such powers of
endurance, a life of extreme want and hunger. And,
moreover, they are all contributions voluntarily offered,
no pressure of any kind being employed, save that
of the facts and arguments adduced in their missionary
meetings ; and that, chiefly by leading men of their own
tribe, who speak from experience, and who can appeal to
the people themselves as witnesses to the truth of what
they say.
When I consider the success of the Gospel amongst
tli is people, the character of the work, and the many
decided and practical proofs that are furnished of its
genuineness, and yet the feebleness and comparative
inefficiency of the agents by \vhose instrumentality so
large a portion of it is accomplished, I am constrained
to say, with the late Ilev. Edward Cook, and as the only
adequate explanation : " This is a people eminently pre-
pared of the Lord."
February. I recently received a copy of the new
Stations of ministers, as settled by the late Conference,
from which I find that I am appointed to Wynberg, a
very salubrious suburb of Cape Town. This appoint-
ment was a complete surprise to myself, as I was not
aware of any probability of a change ; and yet I could
not but regard it as providential, and hail it with
thankfulness ; for, owing to the deadly languor and
exhaustion I suffer for about nine months of the
year, arising from the intense heat of the climate, and
also from the immense amount of labour that must
necessarily fall on a missionary, where only one is
appointed to a circuit of such vast extent, I have long
felt that a change of station was absolutely necessary.
JOYS AND SORROWS. 267
Long before the copy of the Stations arrived, Mrs. E.
and myself had said between ourselves that \ve should
be compelled to request a change of station on that
account alone.
We were now in the heat of the summer, and six
months would yet have to elapse before we could travel
to the Cape ; and I found, as the summer heats con-
tinued to try me, that the change was not a moment too
soon, and that God's good providence had arranged for
timely relief before the entire failure of health should
disqualify me for further service. For a long time to
come we deemed it advisable to give our people no in-
formation as to our removal from the station, as it
might have an unsettling and injurious effect.
March. We have now a larger number of people
on the station than we have ever had before, at the
lowest calculation seven hundred ; consequently, we
have some difficulty in finding accommodation for our
overflowing congregations, especially on the Sabbath.
Our chapel, which will hold only about three hundred
and seventy people, is far too small, and for several
weeks past it has been necessary to have the waggons
drawn out, and the waggon-house cleared every week
for the convenience of a separate Sabbath congregation ;
so that whilst I am conducting service in the chapel,
Mr. Macleod occupies the waggon-house for the same
purpose. Both, however, are insufficient, and many who
cannot find admittance to either, unable to endure the
heat of the sun, are compelled to return to their homes.
March 10th. For the last three weeks some of our
native teachers have been on a visit to the station, for
the purpose of receiving some special instruction.
268 CHAPTER VI.
About two hours every morning I devoted to their im-
provement in reading and writing, as they are far from
being either skilful readers or penmen ; and I have
generally spent two hours every afternoon in giving
them instruction in the principal doctrines of revelation.
The period of their stay was far too limited, as they
themselves felt, but it was as much as could be secured at
once ; and although it was so short, I am confident they
returned to their out stations with clearer views, with
quickened and improved intellect, and I trust with
improved piety. One good effect of their visit has been
to give them a more humbling view of their own weak-
ness and inability than they had before ; for now, with-
out exception, they confess that " they are not worthy
to speak to their fellow-men in the name of the Lord."
They are not, however, unduly discouraged by this new
sense of their insufficiency for the work they have to
engage in ; but seem resolved to use such power as they
possess for the glory of their Lord. Though their
knowledge is necessarily exceedingly limited, yet they
are destitute of neither gifts nor graces, for to some
extent the Spirit of Christ has enriched them with both.
They have all a sound experience, and a ready utterance :
some of them are very striking orators, and a powerful
unction often attends their exhortations ; whilst under
the moving, melting, pathetic prayers of David Afri-
kaner, I have sometimes witnessed such effects pro-
duced, as I have never seen under the prayers of any
other person. They are humble-minded and sincerely
pious men, and I can say of them in general, with a
most comforting assurance : " I have confidence in you
in all things."
.TOYS AND SORROWS. 269
For some time past the number of people on the
place has been steadily increasing ; and this morning I
went round the village, and estimate that, at this time,
there must be nearly nine hundred people ; a very large
number for any one place, especially when their sub-
sistence is derived almost entirely from the milk and
flesh of their flocks and herds. We have now, at the
lowest calculation, ten or eleven thousand sheep and
goats, and upwards of a thousand head of cattle, in-
cluding milch cows and draught and slaughter oxen,
belonging to the people, and all dependent on one
fountain, and on the pasturage surrounding the station.
March 15. About this time I was called up very
early one morning by a member of "William Bukas's
family to go and if possible relieve him, for he was
very ill, and suffering from great pain. For some
years past our house had been the constant resort of the
people in their ailments, and might be regarded as the
dispensary of the village. Not only was " advice given
gratis," but medicine also, so that we were pretty exten-
sively patronised. Dr. Graham's Family Medicine was
our constant reference; the ailments treated usually
yielded to simple means, and the people had great con-
fidence in medicines that almost infallibly cured. From
the information now given_concerning William, I felt
sure that internal inflammation was going on, and I
promptly concluded that the bleeding of the patient was
necessary. But such an operation I had never per-
formed ; however, dismissing the messenger with the
promise of a speedy visit, I looked into my " directions
for bleeding," and at once prepared my bandages and
pledget, and, taking my lancet, I proceeded in confidence
270 CHAPTER VI.
to the house. There I found the sufferer sitting on the
ground, grasping a couple of thongs made fast to the
bamboo frame-work of the house, and writhing with
agony, the members of the family standing concernedly
around. I rolled up the shirt sleeve of the sufferer, tied
the bandage around his arm, and soon succeeded in
getting a very excellent vein for the instrument. I in-
troduced the lancet, and immediately a fine jet of blood
sprang forth, and having taken a small basin, half full,
I applied the pledget, and bound up his arm, with the
direction to carry it in a sling for a couple of days, and
all would be well. The bleeding operated like a charm ;
and to the amazement of the man and his household,
the pain immediately ceased, and I heard no more of
its return. My wife sent a few little niceties suitable
for an invalid ; and to my great delight gradually and
slowly my patient gathered strength, and ultimately he
was enabled to engage in his usual occupations. A
great sensation was produced amongst the natives,
which soon spread far and wide. On the day following,
a young woman appeared, complaining that she felt very
poorly, and expressing a strong desire to be bled. I
told her that we never bled any one for trifling ailments,
but only in cases of great emergency : she might need
a little medicine ; and I gave her some to carry away
with her : but as to bleeding, I absolutely refused, to
her great disappointment ! A week after this a strong
young man, about thirty years of age, came to me com-
plaining that he felt very heavy and continually drowsy,
and said that he would feel very much obliged to me if I
would please to bleed him ! I again expostulated ; but
in vain. Still his cry was to be bled. So I looked at
JOYS AND SORROWS. 271
him: I thought, " Well, you are a strong young man,
full of blood; to take a little will do you no harm."
So I prepared him for the operation, and took a small
quantity of blood from him : at which he went home
highly delighted, and perhaps feeling less " heavy and
drowsy " for the loss.
On the 24th of March, our waggon being prepared,
the oxen inspanned, and the people standing around, I
embraced the opportunity of reminding them of what I
had some time before told them, that an eclipse of the
moon would take place on the night of the 31st,
explaining, as I had done before, what occasioned it.
I also stated that at the commencement of the eclipse
Mr. Macleod would ring the station bell, so that they
might come out of their houses and watch its progress ;
and that since they had first been told of this several
weeks before its occurrence, that would show them the
superiority of knowledge to witchcraft, or any such
rubbish. Wishing them farewell, I left for the north-
east, and arrived at
Nieuwe Fontein on Saturday evening. Since reach-
ing this place, I have heard of the death of a young
man who was on trial for membership. He was
killed during a late thunderstorm by a stroke from the
electric fluid, which broke his neck, and laid the flesh
open to the bone between his shoulders. On the previous
day, which was the Sabbath, he had spoken much with
his parents and other friends on spiritual things, and on
the uncertainty of life ; and looking at the setting sun
he said : "I do not know whether I shall live to see
that sun go down to-morrow." It is very remarkable
that on the following afternoon, before sunset, a storm
272 CHAPTER VI.
suddenly broke over the place, and whilst he was passing
from one house to another, the lightning struck him,
and in an instant he was removed from time into
eternity.
Tuesday, 30th. Yesterday, at eight o'clock a.m., I
conducted a short public service, and was afterwards
engaged for three hours in meeting the male members,
so that it was noon before I could obtain any cessation
from my labour. This following the services of the
Sabbath makes the toil very severe in this debilitating
climate. In the afternoon Mrs. Ridsdale assisted me
by meeting the females.
On the night of March 31st we had a fine view of
the eclipse of the moon, to which I had previously
called the attention of our people on the station, and to
which I had, since commencing the journey, more
especially referred our people who were travelling with
us ; particularly Old Tonnis, our waggon-driver, who
had been a toovenaar or wizard. I took some pains to
explain how it was occasioned ; for I was very anxious
to uproot all his superstitions with regard to witchcraft,
and to make him feel the superiority of real wisdom and
knowledge to superstition and mere trickery. So when
the moon arose that night, round and large, I called his
attention to it : " Tonnis, it does not look as if the moon
would be eclipsed to-night, does it ? " " No, Sir," he
said, " it won't be eclipsed ; " almost laughing in his
incredulousness at the idea. ll Ah, but it will," I said,
" only it's too soon yet." Soon we outspanned, a fire
was made, and the kettle set on for tea. Meantime I
told Tonnis to slaughter a sheep, " and when you have
finished that and hung it up for the flesh to set, you
JOYS AND SORROWS. 273
may look at the moon." He was soon busy about this
necessary work, and every now and then cast a glance
upwards towards the moon, showing that some com-
motion was going on within, and that he still thought
there was some possibility of my words proving true.
At length all being finished, and the eclipse having
visibly commenced, I said, " Now, Tonnis, look." He
seemed still in doubt, as it was not very visible.
"Well," I said, "wait a short time." At about half-
past nine he looked again, and said, " It seems as if one
side of the moon was cut off!" "Was it like that
when the moon rose?" "No, Sir, it was altogether
round and full." His interest was now fairly enlisted,
and as the eclipse advanced, for some time I sat up
with him, watching the phenomenon ; at length, weary
with long travelling, I retired to rest. Tonnis, however,
was wide awake, and sat up till the close, and first thing
in the morning, on leaving the waggon, he exclaimed
frankly, and in high excitement, " Ah, Sir, I sat up till
the eclipse was all over, and the moon became round
and full again as when it rose ; and everything came to
pass exactly as you had said." " Well," I said, " I told
you of this some time before it took place, and the time
when it would begin and end. There was no trickery
there ; you know I could not get up there and draw
a veil over the face of the moon." "No, Sir," he at
once replied. " Well, you see how much better know-
ledge is than sorcery ! Clever men calculate everything
concerning eclipses to the minute, days, months, and
years beforehand, and publish it to the world, so that
men may have the opportunity of testing the truth of
what they say." He seemed much impressed, and I
274 CHAPTER VI.
doubt not he then learnt lessons which he would tell to
others, and carry with him to the end of his days.
Saturday, April 3rd. This morning we arrived at
Schans Ylakte, a village of the Velschoen Draagers, and
at present the residence of the chief and his principal
men, and of Frederick Buys, our native assistant.
For a considerable distance before reaching the village
our attention was arrested by the amount of labour the
people had bestowed in road-making. On former occa-
sions I had visited this tribe on horseback ; but as they
had for some time past expected that I should visit them
with the waggon, bringing my wife with me, which
they felt to be an honour, they had with great labour,
and no implements more powerful than their hands, torn
up enormous stones and made a clear open road for a
waggon, of many miles in length. From the wild and
rugged nature of this part, there can never be what an
Englishman would call a good road : still, this is one that
can be travelled without danger, and it reflects great
credit on its inexperienced makers. It is the com-
mencement of a civilising process that has followed the
introduction of the Gospel.
On entering the village the laborious work of shaking
the hand of every man, woman, and child, on the place,
all marching up in regimental order for the purpose,
was commenced ; and as several hundred were presented
in succession, we were glad when the tedious ceremony
approached its termination.
During the course of the day the chief sent his slate
for my inspection. It contained the whole alphabet in
capitals and small letters, and was very tolerably written,
considering that it was almost his first attempt. It had
JOYS AND SORROWS. 275
probably been reserved for my inspection for some days.
In front of the village is a low mountain, which is
surrounded at the top by a wall, the entire length of
which must be eight or ten hundred yards, low in places
difficult of access, and five or six feet high in those
parts that are most easily available. This wall, which
consists of a double row of loose flat stones piled one
above another, was thrown round the mountain by the
Afrikaners at the beginning of the century. After
shooting the Dutch Boer, Pinaar, to whom Old Afrikaner
and his clan were at that time subject, and by whom
they were oppressed beyond all endurance, Afrikaner
and his people fled to this place. Here they resolved
upon making a stand against the commandoes sent in
pursuit of them by the Colonial Government. Within
this entrenchment, at the top of the mountain, they built
their houses, had kraals for their calves, and in fact
everything necessary to a Namaqua village, and con-
sidered themselves able to defy all their enemies. They
seemed scarcely able to conceive of a valour that would
proceed in the face of their bullets, scale their fort,
bound over its walls, drive them over the fearful precipice
on the opposite side, and plunge them into the abyss of
black waters beneath. The opportunity of defending
themselves in their impregnable fortification, however,
never occurred, as the commandoes of Boers from the
Colony pursued them no farther than Nisbett Bath.
This entrenchment remains unimpaired to this day, and
is at least a proof that the Afrikaners possessed an
energy of character much greater than that possessed
by the Namaqua tribes generally. I felt much interest
in viewing this relic, calling up so vividly as it does the
T2
276 CHAPTER VI.
scenes of war and bloodshed, of rapine and murder, in
which the Afrikaners were formerly engaged, as all
contrasts so strongly now with the changed conduct of
that part of the tribe which forms a portion of my
charge. I next inspected the new stone chapel in course
of erection. The walls, in nearly their entire length,
are raised to the height of six feet, and are two feet
thick, and when the building is completed, it will hold
about three hundred hearers. In the evening I con-
O
ducted public service, the present chapel being well filled.
Monday, 5th. Yesterday being the Sabbath, an
early prayer meeting was held, and, about 9 a.m., I
preached from Gen. i. 27. In the afternoon I exa-
mined ten adult candidates for baptism, explaining to
them the nature of that sacrament, and the obligations
they were about to take upon themselves in the recep-
tion of it. At night my theme was, the " Saviour,
Jesus" (Acts xiii. 23). I felt unutterable delight in
speaking concerning Him, and the attention of the
people was powerfully arrested by the glorious subject,
throughout the entire service. When the Saviour Jesus
was exhibited to this yet half heathen people as their
only Hope, and as the only Restorer of the lost moral
image of God, the whole congregation was moved with
emotion. 0, it is in these lands, where we see man in
his lowest state of sin and wretchedness, yet sighing for
deliverance, that the very name of Jesus is as music,
thrilling music, in our ears. I rejoice in the assurance
that a mighty hand has been already laid on the
kingdom of Satan, in this region : he may struggle
to maintain it, but it shall finally fall, and great shall
be the fall thereof.
JOYS AND SORROWS. 277
This morning I again held service, and at the close
publicly baptized the candidates I examined yesterday.
This is always felt to be a very impressive service.
After this I united eight couples in the bonds u of holy
matrimony." This service being finished, I was occu-
pied for three hours in meeting the members and can-
didates for membership. We have now amongst this
people twenty-four members, most of them the early
fruits of Elias Rolfe's visits, and thirty-four on trial,
the result chiefly of Frederick Buys's recently com-
menced labours the commencement, I trust, of a
large church to be gathered out of this tribe.
This afternoon we took our leave, amidst abundance
of shaking of hands, but were accompanied a consider-
able distance by many of the people, before they seemed
willing to part ; and we could not but lament that the
great distance of this outpost from the station prevented
the possibility of its being visited with the frequency it
deserves.
This visit has given me great and unmingled satis-
faction, and I could not help contrasting the present
state of the Velschoen Draagers with that in which I
found them in 1844. Then there were neither candidates
nor members ; now we have fifty-eight regularly meet-
ing in class. Then they .hail no place of public worship,
and no schools ; now they have a large stone chapel in
course of erection, and a hundred and fifty children in
the Sunday and week-day schools. We have also twelve
Sunday-school teachers selected from amongst themselves.
Then they were only occasionally visited by one of the
nearest native teachers, though residing at a considerable
distance, who at such times held service in the open
278 CHAPTER VI.
air ; now they have a native assistant living in their
midst, and enjoy stated instruction. They were at that
time almost all destitute of any decent clothing, the
mother of the chief herself being perfectly naked, with
the exception of a small strip of skin round the loins ;
but since my first visit traders have found their way
thither, and now a large number are clothed in articles
of English manufacture, and the Sunday congregations
nearly equal in respectability of appearance the congre-
gations on the principal station. Then they had neither
waggon-roads nor waggons, but now, considering the
character of the country, they have made a tolerable
road, and are in possession of eight waggons. So that
a few leading steps in civilisation have followed in
almost immediate connection with the introduction of
the Gospel. Whatever may be the [opinion of others,
missionaries in such lands are in no doubt as to what is
the great civiliser of the nations.
For forty or fifty miles before reaching Schans Vlakte
the character of the scenery is totally different from any
other in the circuit, or indeed from any other I have
seen in South Africa. It is as wild and gloomy as the
imagination can conceive. Rugged and barren ravines,
skirted with a succession of terrible and abrupt preci-
pices, here and there rent by gloomy fissures, fill the
mind of the solitary traveller with an irrepressible feel-
ing of awe. The towering height of these lofty preci-
pices makes the passer-by most impressively to feel his
own nothingness in contrast with their mighty magni-
tude, whilst their grey and age-worn appearance is in
perfect keeping with the brown and faded aspect of the
trees and shrubs around. Along these ravines an
JOYS AND SORROWS. 279
African river invariably courses its way in time of storm,
though generally leaving nothing for the eye to <j,;i/.c
upon but its bed of dry and burning sands, with here
and there a stagnant pool of black or green water, of
unknown depth, deposited at the base of a high and
massive precipice.
The age-worn precipices, and the pools of dark water
at their base, the withered aspect of the vegetation
around, and the black prostrate arms and trunks of trees
lying in the most fantastic and serpentine forms, the
holes in the face of the rocks suggestive of tigers' dens,
and the deathlike stillness only broken by the shrill
screams of the wild geese disturbed in their pools, or
by the gruff salutation of the baboon as he spies the
puny traveller from the top of his rocky heights, invest
the entire scene with an air of almost depressing melan-
choly. One feels as if he were treading regions that had
never been trodden by the foot of man before, and can
easily imagine them to be the abode of every doleful
creature. And if it be his first visit to these dreary
scenes, without the rattle of a waggon's wheels or the
smack of the driver's huge whip to cheer his spirits and
drive away the awful solemnity of the reign of silence,
the traveller is almost ready to imagine that at every
step he takes some direful monster from the rocks, or
holes, or mountains, will stand before his view.
We have heard fearful accounts from the natives of
enormous serpents that infest the rocks and mountains,
which, they say, are too terrible to look upon, and of
which they are infinitely more afraid than of lions and
tigers. On first hearing their descriptions, I was much
inclined to treat all as fiction, or gross exaggeration, as
280 CHAPTER VI.
I had not previously heard of the existence of the boa
constrictor in these parts, with which alone their de-
scriptions agree. After more minute inquiry, I am
compelled to believe in the existence of some kind of
large rock serpent, as the accounts of the natives so
nearly accord with the descriptions that have been
furnished by naturalists. From the information the
natives give, they must be thirty or forty feet in length.
They have " beards and eyebrows," they say ; " they
sometimes make a blowing noise, like the noise of a
smith's bellows, and sometimes like a small whirlwind
passing through the rocks;" they have a horrible
factor, which none of all the snakes or serpents I have
seen and handled possess, and they glitter in the sun
like burnished metal. In all these particulars they
so nearly agree with the accounts naturalists have
published, that I can doubt no longer, especially as
the natives have never seen or heard of the descrip-
tions we have been accustomed to read from child-
hood-
The people told of a woman who came unexpectedly
upon one of these monsters among the rocks, when it
immediately reared to a frightful height. The woman
fled, but soon fell with fear, and arose and fled, and
fell again, till at length she escaped.
Hearing that some of these monsters might possibly
be seen up in the entrenchment at the top of the hill,
and being very incredulous, I took my rifle, and, accom-
panied by Elias Rolfe, who was also armed, we ascended
the hill, and went on a tour of inspection. Fortu-
nately, if there were any, they were too sleepy or too
lazy to show themselves.
JOYS AND SORROWS. 281
After leaving the Velschoen Draagers, we called at
Cook's Boom, or " Tree," which was the farthest spot to
which the Rev. E. Cook extended his journeys in this
direction. Here Elias Rolfe is at present residing with
his people. During a brief visit I met all the members,
baptized two adults and six children, and married two
couples. After leaving this place we were amused,
during an outsparuiing, with watching some baboons on
a high krantz, who, doubtless, were similarly amused
with watching us from their lofty elevation. One of
them, who appeared to us to be upon the very edge of
a precipice, with his legs hanging over the front, just
leaned on his right arm, gave a twist to his body, and
leaped down in most human style to a lower ledge,
which we could not see from our low position, appear-
ing to be as much at home on those precipitous heights
as \ve were upon the plain below. I happened to be
looking at him through my glass at the moment, and
was much amused at his unconcerned appearance, and
at the adroitness he manifested. One might infer that
these gentlemen are not much troubled with giddiness
in the head, however great the elevation.
Whilst in this rocky and precipitous region, I obtained
a couple of rock rabbits, which we had for dinner. I
shot them at a height of about thirty feet up the face of
one of the precipices, and laying my gun down at the
bottom, I ascended with ease, and secured my game ;
but how to descend the perpendicular face of the rock
again was the difficulty; and as the waggon and men
had passed on a considerable distance, I felt some con-
cern, as it was evident I should have to drop from some
height upon the loose stones below : and in case of a
282 CHAPTER VI.
sprained or dislocated ankle, I did not see how I could
make them acquainted with my position. Mercifully
I escaped without injury.
On another occasion the alarm was to my party, not
to myself. I thought they had seen me walking in
advance of the waggon through a defile with rocks on
either hand. My intention was to look for a stray
antelope or other game, which would be sure to take
fright at the sound of a waggon travelling over a rocky
road. Intent upon my purpose, I had walked on a con-
siderable distance in advance, as the waggon could only
travel slowly over such roads. Suddenly, the inquiry
arose : " Where is master?" No one had seen him for
a long time. In a panic, whilst one man was left in
charge of the waggon, the other two were despatched
in search of me, but all in vain : meantime I was
marvelling at the long delay of the waggon. The sun
was setting and casting long shadows, and very soon
the darkness of night would cover all nature. I stood,
knowing that the waggon must travel that road. I
shouted, and waited, and fired my gun, and grew
impatient at the long delay. At length, proceeding
towards the direction from which the waggon ought to
come, I caught a distant sound of its rumble over the
rocks, and in due time we met, to the great relief of all.
On the station I found all in very good order ; and
the services having been regularly conducted by Mr.
Macleod, things generally wore in a state of prosperity.
On the 5th of May, after a residence on the station
of nearly three weeks, I again proceeded to visit the
Afrikaners, when as usual I met the members, examined
the school, and inquired into affairs generally. In some
JOYS AND SORROWS. 283
respects they were not in so satisfactory a state as I had
generally found them, and I felt it necessary to rectify
some irregularities, and to reprove some of the leading
men for negligence, which I had very seldom found it
needful to do at this place. As I did this with a re-
luctance which they could not fail to perceive, I hope
the effect will be salutary.
On the 14th I returned, intending to travel through
and reach home that night ; but owing to the careless-
ness of Links, my attendant, this was frustrated. We
had travelled to within five-and-twenty miles of home,
when I resolved to offsaddle and benefit ourselves and
our horses by rest and a little refreshment, before com-
mencing the final stage. But as it was already dark, I
gave special directions to my man to be sure to " span "
the horses, and not merely to knee-halter them as we
do in the daylight. When we were ready to resume
the journey, I directed him to fetch them, anticipating
no delay. He was a long time absent, and at length
he returned, saying he could not find them. In all my
journeyings such a thing had never happened before ;
and on inquiry I found he had not spanned the horses,
which would have kept them grazing near to us, but
had merely knee-haltered them. Immediately I ordered
him after them, as they cauld travel at a good speed
with merely the knee haltered, and they would be sure
to make for the nearest \vater, many miles away. In
that case we should lose them for the ni<jht, and for
o /
hours on the following day. He seemed very reluctant,
but as the case was urgent, he obeyed. After sitting
on the grass by a small fire, till I was tired of that
position, I made loose my kaross and spread it upon ti:o
284- CHAPTER VI.
ground, and arranging my saddle for a pillow, I lay
impatiently waiting for Links and the horses. Suddenly
a dash, as of hundreds of animals, "startled me ; and
away they went over the plain. Immediately I sat up,
peering into the darkness over the embers of my little
fire, but of course I could see nothing.
It seemed to me like the rush of a herd of antelopes
that had suddenly taken fright at something a wolf, a
tiger, or a pack of wild dogs perhaps, neither of which
it was pleasant to think of being near. This was about
the only time, in all my journeyings on horseback,
when I happened to carry a brace of pistols at my
saddle-bow. At once I made them loose, examined the
nipples and caps, and saw that they were all right.
As they were very small, only pocket-pistols, and could
not be depended on for straightness of aim, I deter-
mined that if necessary to use them, I would not fire at
a distance, but wait, till an attack was actually made,
and then fire at close quarters, into whatever wild
beast might pounce upon me. Lifting up my heart to
God for calmness, and nerve, and protection, I waited,
expecting to see the glaring eyeballs of some fierce
animal confronting me ; but, after a while, none appear-
ing, I ceased to expect it. Soon, however, I heard
something in the distance, and it appeared to be ap-
proaching, for in those silent plains sound travels a long
way ; so, standing up, I shouted, u Is that you, Links ?"
" Yes, Sir," was the instant reply, and at once I was
greatly relieved. It was near midnight, and he had
returned without the horses: but though very much
disappointed at his not having them, I could say nothing
more to him in the way of reproof. " I stooped down,"
JOYS AND SORROWS. 285
said lie, viz., that he might see any object projected
above the horizon, against the sky; " and sometimes I
thought I saw them : but when I ran up, I found they
were only bushes. This I did many times, but still I
found only bushes : at length I felt very much terri-
fied." How he found his way back to me I cannot
tell, as for some time past my fire had been reduced to
embers. And although in his state of trepidation I
did not venture to accuse him of not having gone after
the horses, I have often thought since, that he must
have remained within sight of my fire. After all, it
was the best plan he could have adopted ; for as the
horses had evidently gone to the water, and it was im-
possible to see their footmarks, the only wise plan was
to return before he became lost himself. It was a bad
job ; but all we could now do was to make the best of
it. Before I awoke in the morning, the poor fellow was
off", and I was again alone, in all probability, for some
hours.
The sun soon mounted the horizon, and at once began
to pour forth its wonted heat, which even at this hour of
the day I always felt to produce a feeling of much faintness.
It appeared to be hotter than usual, and I had no
means of counteracting the feeling by taking an early
breakfast, for all our refreshrnents had been consumed
the previous night. At length, as tbe warmth increased,
in self-defence, I lay down again upon my spread
mantle, put my head upon my saddle, and drew the
mantle over my face. For some time I dozed off in a
state of happy forgetfulness ; but, on awaking again
to consciousness, I threw down the kaross from off my
face, to the disappointment of several crows which were
28G CHAPTER VI.
hovering about, a few yards above my head, evidently
puzzled with that strange something on the ground,
which for some time had been as still as death, but which
now showed unmistakable indications of life. Higher
in the heavens, wheeling in large circles, was a vulture ;
so that in case of death by hunger, thirst, or violence,
there were pretty plain indications that clean bones
would soon be all that was left of me. After the
revelation of life these rapacious birds had witnessed,
it is astonishing how quickly they disappeared. Evi-
dently there was nothing for them there !
Waiting thus in the plains hour after hour with nothing
to do but wait, was inexpressibly tedious. At last, look-
ing towards the south-west, I thought I saw a dust : five
minutes later it was certain, and something visible was
moving. At length two men on horseback were seen,
which w r as discouraging, as I supposed them travellers
by the path across the plain who would never see me,
but pass on unconscious of my presence. Still they
drew nearer, and other horses were with them. Hence
I could not think them mine, for here were two men
and four horses ! Still they bent their course towards
me, and as they drew nearer and nearer, at length I
saw my man on one of my horses and leading another,
and Andries Abraham, one of our own people, riding
another horse, and leading that we used as a pack-horse.
All was soon explained. The poor horses had made for
an outlying place, where a few of our people had gone
for the benefit of the water and grazing for their flocks,
and evidently the horses were acquainted with the spot,
and had reached it early. Having slaked their thirst,
they contented themselves with grazing in the im-
JOYS AND SORROWS. 287
mediate neighbourhood of the water. Andries was the
first up in the village, and at once saw the horses.
Finding them to be knee-haltered, and recognising them
as mine, he at once opined the facts of the case, and
immediately prepared his own horse, which fortunately
was at hand, with the intention of bringing them to
us, who he concluded were far away on the plain. His
first duty was to find the spoor, and thus ascertain the
direction from which they had come ; and having soon
succeeded in finding this, he was galloping upon it as
his guide, bringing on my three horses at a smart rate,
when he met my man. It was now about ten a.m.,
and hungry and faint, with the prospect of a journey
of twenty-five miles before we could breakfast, we
soon equipped and mounted our horses, and in due
season reached home, very thankful to God, Whose
good angels had " encamped round about us, and
delivered us."
As soon as I return from my circuit journeys to the
principal station, I have always been accustomed to
resume my daily morning expositions, taking up the
place at which I left off; and as soon as resumed, the
old interest shown by the people returns. Indeed the
continuous narratives of some of the historical books
have seemed completely to fascinate the people, and at
the same time to be a means of supplying them with
many valuable and instructive lessons. I arn now read-
ing the First Book of Samuel, and am anxious to complete
it before these meetings for exposition are brought to a
close by my leaving the country. In a few days I shall
have to read about the combat between David and
Goliath, and intend to show them a sling, and its use,
288 CIIAPTER VI.
that I may be able to give them some idea of its terrible
power in the hands of a skilful slinger.
About the end of June I once more had to pay the
monthly visit to the Afrikaners, which would probably
be the last time I should be able to go before leaving
the circuit. As usual, the society, the school, and all
the affairs belonging to the society were carefully
inquired into, and they were found as satisfactory almost
as could be wished. Though my impression was that I
should not have the opportunity of visiting them again,
I could not muster the courage to tell them so, especially
as possibly another opportunity might present itself. I
therefore said nothing on the subject, though in bidding
them farewell I felt the wrench as terribly as though it
were the last. Had the people known my thoughts
and feelings, I fear their laments would have been so
distressing as completely to unman me.
On returning to the station I resumed my morning
exposition, and the combat of David and Goliath having
been read as part of the service, great interest was
shown by the people ; and after the service a crowd of
men being gathered together outside the chapel to talk
on the subject, I showed them a sling, made probably
of the same materials as the sling of David, viz., of
prepared sheep or goat skin. I told them of the skill
of the Benjamites, who could sling stones " to a hair's
breadth, and not miss ; " of the force with which
stones could be hurled by those who were practised, as
they had just heard in the case of David, who hurled a
stone that pierced the forehead of the giant, and
brought him to the ground. Putting a smooth stone
into the sling, I said I was altogether unpractised, but I
JOYS AND SORROWS. 289
would try and show them how it was used ; when,
requesting them to stand back that I might have room
to swing my arm, I sent the stone into the air with a
loud, continuous whiz, which excited their astonish-
ment ; but from which they could infer, that, since an
unpractised slinger could throw with such force, David,
who was accustomed probably to sling from his boy-
hood, might easily hurl a stone with force sufficient to
break into the skull of Goliath. In this way, when it
could be done, I had pleasure in illustrating outside the
sanctuary anything they might have heard within, and
rendering it more vivid to their perception.
July 21st. I met my class this morning, and could
not help realising in a very vivid manner that the time
of my departure from the people and station is very
near at hand. The allusions made to it by the members
were very touching, and it excited sorrowful emotions to
think my ministrations in this part are so nearly over,
perhaps for ever. We have had abounding joy and
consolation in our labours here, and nothing less than
the absolute necessity of a change to a less trying
climate could reconcile us to the idea of leaving. But
to remain would almost inevitably destroy my health
permanently ; for the heats of Great Namaqualand
are truly dreadful, especially after the constitution has
once begun to feel their debilitating influence ; whereas
a timely removal to a cooler temperature will, I
doubt not, restore lost energy, and prepare me for
future years of labour, if necessary, in the interior
again.
August 1st. This has been a solemn Sabbath, pro-
bably the last I shall ever spend in this part of Great
u
290 CHAPTER VI.
Namaqualand. I strove to realise the idea, and gazed
with peculiar feelings on the various objects in the
station and surrounding it, as far as to the verge of the
widespread horizon itself, together with the hills and
long, low range of mountains which break it to the south
and south-west, never expecting to see them again
enlightened by the beams of a Sabbath sun. A multi-
tude of varying and commingled thoughts and emotions
were excited, but amidst them all thankfulness for ever
having been sent to this part of the mission field, and
for the manifold blessings I have enjoyed during my
residence here, prevailed. God has caused us to " sing
of mercy," almost entirely unmingled with "judgment,"
and He has made His " pleasure to prosper in our
hands."
In the morning I preached on Acts xx. 32 : " And
now, brethren, I commend you to God, and to the word
of His grace," &c. And I felt a hallowed delight and
satisfaction in the thought that I was delivering up my
charge into the hands of that same Great Shepherd of
the sheep, who had for a season placed them under my
pastoral care. And if in any measure I had fed this
part of His flock according to His will, I felt that that
was a full and abundant recompense for all the labours
and watchings my charge had imposed. The people
felt deeply, and were nearly overwhelmed with emotion.
In the afternoon, instead of the Sabbath school being
held as usual, I repeated all the leading points of history
in the Old Testament, from Genesis to the end of the
First Book of Samuel, in order the more deeply to
impress on their minds the facts they had heard read
and remarked upon for a considerable time past in the
JOYS AND SORROWS. 291
regular daily morning service, as well as to give them
a general and connected view of the whole.
Tuesday, August 3rd. This morning, at about eleven
o'clock, our waggons being packed, and our oxen caught
and inspanned, I had the station bell rung, when the
people who had been standing about all the morning
accompanied us into the chapel.
I gave out a hymn and began to sing with a good
courage, but was suddenly compelled to stop by irre-
pressible emotion. Out of the chapel full of people
there were only two or three voices that were able
falteringly to proceed, so that after singing two verses I
proposed prayer. But the sobs of the whole congre-
gation were so overwhelming, together with the deep
emotion of my own mind, that for a considerable time
I could not proceed. At length, however, I mastered
my feelings and was able to continue with tolerable
calmness. On leaving the chapel and taking the hand
of first one and then another, the scene was renewed as
painfully as before, and to very many I could not utter
even a word of salutation. Our people were even more
powerfully affected, and so distressing was the parting
that I was thankful when it was finished.
August 8th, Orange River. Having got our waggons
and everything we had in charge through the river on
the previous day, we were able peacefully to enjoy the
Sabbath. A number of our people had accompanied
us in their own waggons and on foot from the station
as far as the river, and many others had arrived on the
previous evening at our encampment, having come from
various places along the river on horseback, on ox-
back, and on foot, so that our congregation amounted to
U 2
292 CHAPTER VI.
nearly one hundred persons. In the morning, assembled
under the trees by the river side, I preached to them
from : " Dearly beloved, I beseech you as strangers and
pilgrims, abstain from fleshly lusts, which war against
the soul " (1 Peter ii. 11). And in the afternoon from :
11 There remaineth therefore a rest to the people of
God" (Hebrews iv. 9).
Monday, August 9th. This morning I held a service
with the people before finally parting ; and at the close
I married the youngest son of the chief. In the after-
noon, being almost ready to leave the river, I rowed
Sara, the chiefs wife, and Marie, the wife of Jan
Ortman, the chiefs principal councillor, to the north
side of the river ; and as they were much distressed, I
spoke cheeringly to them by the way. On handing
them out of the boat to the river bank, they sat down
upon the bank in silent, but inconsolable grief, their
heads bowed, and covered up with their shawls. Taking
their hands, I said in a tone of forced cheerfulness,
" Good-bye, Sara ; good-bye, Marie ; " got into the boat,
and rowed back. Most of the remaining people would
easily wade through at the ford, as the river happened
to be low ; and as delay would only increase the
difficulty of parting, we gave the signal to move on ;
" Trek, loop," cried the waggon-driver, and away we
went, never to return. But standing on the waggon
forechest, and looking from the high bank over the
tree tops to the other side of the river, I beheld those
poor, disconsolate women, still sitting on the same spot,
their heads covered and bowed in sorrow, as when I left
them. That scene has remained indelibly engraven on
my mind ever since. It so overpowered me at the time,
JOYS AND SORROWS. 293
that, ashamed to be seen so affected by the waggon-
people, I descended, and walked on in advance of the
waggon for three hours, during which my sorrow was
repressed and renewed again many times over. This
sorrow of parting from the first scene and people of my
mission was one of the greatest sorrows of my life.
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Niqa's Burnished Cold. ByE.MiLlE
SEARCHFIELD. Frontispiece.
Lena and I. By JENNIE CHAP-
PELL. With Frontispiece.
Windmill House. By EDITH
CORNFORTH. Frontispiece.
Elias Power, of Ease in Zion. By
Rev. J. M. BAMFORD.
John, Conscience, of Kiryjseal. By
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Father Fervent. By Rev. J. M.
BAMFORD.
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JOHN M. BAMFORD.
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rir* (Dne anb (Sixpence.
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Auriel, and Oth,er Stories. By
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A Voice from the Sea ; or, Th.e
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RUTH ELLIOTT.
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The Vicar of Berrybridge. By
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A Pledge th.at Redeemed Itself.
By SARSON.
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tie anb cSixpfttte continued.
Millie's Disappearance, an.d What
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Frontispiece,
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gles. By M. E. CROWTHER. Front-
ispiece.
Life in. a Parsonage; or, Lights
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May's Captain. By HELEN BRIS-
TON. Three Illustrations.
Footsteps in the Snow. By ANNIE
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Puqchi Nona : A Story of Ferqale
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JSr.
ESorks.
Bible Animals.
Jewels.
Promises.
Warnings.
Wonders.
Martyrs and Heroes of th,e Refor-
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Rays from th.e Sun. of Righteous-
ness.
Tl\e Great Pilot an.d His Lessors.
Th.e Safe Compass and How it
Points.
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<?Dn.e
prank's
Illustrated. Small Crown &>o.
Skipper George Netm.an. A Story MatthewWindrod ; or,TheMethod-
of Outport Methodism in New-
foundland. By Rev. GEO. J. BOND.
Pictures and Stories about th,e
Early Christians. By ANNIE F.
PERRAM.
Sketches of Early Methodism in,
the Black Country.
Th.e Poor Boy of the Class. By
HELEN BRISTON.
Old Daniel ; or, Memoirs of a
Converted Hindoo. By Rev. T.
HODSON.
Rooksnest Abbey, an,d other Tales.
By JENNIE CHAPPELL.
Th.e Land of the Ghauts: Pic-
tures of Life in Southern India.
The Narrow Escape, an.d oth,er
Stories for the Young. By W. J.
FORSTER.
With. Steady Aim: or, Herbert
Ford's Life Work. By W. J.
FORSTER.
One Too M an V- By E- M.
EDWARDS. Frontispiece.
ists of Casterwell.
My Brother Jack.. By EMILIE
SEARCHFIELD.
Robert MofFat, th.e African Mis-
sionary. By Rev. J. MARRAT.
Recent Wanderings in Fiji ;
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the South Australian Conference.
Memorial of Rev. George William
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ALLEN. With Portrait.
Under th.e Juniper Tree : A Story
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Tell Me a Story : Yes I Will. By
HELEN BRISTON.
Th.e Apostle of Burn^ah.. A
Memoir of Adoniram Judson, D.D.
By Rev. J. MARRAT.
Heartease and Morninj; Glories.
By JENNIE CHAPI-ELL.
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HOLLINGS.
London: C. H. KELLY, 2, Castle Street, City Road, B.C.;
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Elizabeth Gaunt.
t dfmnk's
A Tale of
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Th.e Kqight's Move, and other
Stories. By W. J. FORSTER.
The Spring-Tide Reciter. Tem-
perance Recitations for Young
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Sara's Choice ; or, No Vain Sacri-
fice. By ANNIE F. PERKAM.
By
By SARA
ontinuid.
Wh.en His Years were Few.
EDITH CORNPORTH.
Th.e High Ridge Farm.
MOORLAND.
Brook.side School, and oth,er
Stories. By MARGARET S. HAY-
CRAFT.
The Foundation Scholar, and other
Stories. By JENNIE PERRETT.
Mjc^ael th.e Tailor. By Kev. M.
GALLIENNE. Translated from the
French by Rev. C. de P. Gliddon.
The Father of Methodism.. A Life of the Rev. J.Wesley for Children
and Young Persons. By the Rev. N. CURNOCK, sen. New and Enlarged
Edition. Forty Illustrations. Crown 410. Limp cloth.
Jog of g)tr "ffiome <Smcs. Price gJ. each.
Illustrated. Small Crown 9vo. Cloth, gilt lettered.
The Joy of Her Horrje. By j 14. Mona Bell ; or, Faithful over
a Few Things.
L. J. TOMLINSON.
2. A-Fa : Th.e Story of a Slave Girl
in China.
3. Only a Ball. By JENNIE
PERRETT.
4. Little Jim, A Young Christian
Hero. By Rev. JOHN CLEGG.
5. Leaves from, a Mission House in
India. By Mrs. HUTCHEON.
6. Joe Webster's Mistake. By
EMILIE SEARCHFIELD. Five
Illustrations.
7. Sketches frorri My Schoolroom.
Four Illustrations.
8. The Story of an Apprenticeship.
By the Rev. A. LANGLEY.
9. Broken. By EINAN.
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