"". .-.. .. ******* iffi A YEAR IN PESHAWUR, 's Uitt into fass. A YEAR IN PESHAWUR, AND A ifo* Mo % pfrgtar L. R. TREVELYAN. LONDON : CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY. 1880. LONDON I R. CLAY, SONS, AND TAYLOR, BREAD STREET HILL. gtbkatrir TO MY HUSBAND. 1416004 PREFACE. THIS story is written by one who has lived in the country in which the scene is laid, and is intended to give some idea of the life led by officers and their families in a station like Peshawur. To enliven the scenes, it has been necessary to people them ; but it has been the writer's studious care that her fictitious characters shall be typical, and in no case to risk offence by drawing from life. During the interval between the composition and the publication of this work, many changes have taken place in Afghanistan, but they do not in any way affect "A YEAR IN PESHAWUR." CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE INTRODUCTORY . I CHAPTER II. A PAPER CHASE 13 CHAPTER III. AN EVENTFUL JOURNEY 26 CHAPTER IV. A COURT MARTIAL 44 CHAPTER V. PESHAWUR FEVER 56 CHAPTER VI. CHRISTMAS DAY IN PESHAWUR AND IN THE DISTRICT ... 69 CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. PAGE STILL IN THE DISTRICT. REPARATION AND SUCCESS ... 88 CHAPTER VIII. A NARROW ESCAPE AND THE RESULTS 104 CHAPTER IX. THE REGIMENTAL BALL 119 CHAPTER X. SPORTS AND PASTIMES , . 134 CHAPTER XI. MORNING VISITS 151 CHAPTER XII. THE DOG FIGHT , 165 CHAPTER XIII. LOVE'S TOILS 183 CHAPTER XIV. A FEARFUL TRAGEDY 196 CONTENTS. xi . CHAPTER xv. PAGE CONSTERNATION AT PESHAWUR . 211 CHAPTER XVI. MORE HORRORS 22 CHAPTER XVII. A MEMORABLE RIDE 235 CHAPTER XVIII. ' CONCLUSION 252 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR, AND A f aft^'s gib* into % ftjrglm" f ass. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. THE cold season was just breaking up, and the much dreaded hot weather coming slowly but surely. Each day we could feel a perceptible change, and the grumblers would soon have reason to grumble in earnest, for in a tew weeks the summer would be upon us in all its fury, and punkahs, tatties, iced beverages, and all other hot-weather appendages in full swing. No one who has not been in India can imagine what the feeling of an Indian spring is; so different to the English one, which is a time of rejoicing, one may say, especially to the old and poor, to whom winter is only another name for rheumatics B 2 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. and misery. In India, on the contrary, the period between the two seasons of hot and cold weather we scarcely ought to call spring, for there is nothing spring-like in it except perhaps in the extreme north of India, where the trees do bud and blossom and the leaves are green and remain so for a month or two. But in the north, March and April are pleasant months, indeed it is very cold there in January and February, and one may see snow on the near ranges and enjoy a fire in the house all day long. There are many drawbacks though to the north-country spring ; for during the day the sun is very warm, and the temperature like an English summer, while the nights are very cold ; and this great contrast between day and night induces fever, to which the poor natives, who are generally so thinly clad, fall victims in numbers. However, fever and ague are not usually so prevalent in the spring of the year as in the autumn ; the latter is very trying, particularly to the European portion of the population, who are so reduced by the summer campaign as not to have the same strength to with- stand it as they have after being braced a little by the cold weather. Summer in India is of itself a campaign, for is it not a continual warfare with every kind of plague, from heat to insects ? From morning to night the best intentioned and least selfish people can think of nothing but the heat, and how to bear it, and the most sensible means to reduce its effect. It is INTRODUCTORY. 3 needless to say that individuals differ as to the best mode of getting through the days ; for where do they ever agree ? and India is the last place in which they are likely to do so. Some will say keep your doors open and let in the fresh air ; but these are usually of the " Griffin " stamp, for the air is far from fresh, and at some seasons hot enough to scorch the skin off your face. Indeed, when you go out for a drive in the evening, the effect is exactly as if you were sitting before a blazing kitchen fire ; but this is not the worst, for at times, just before the rains, when you cannot breathe at all, the clouds gather, the atmosphere becomes the colour of pea-soup, and breathing is really a difficulty. English people who have not visited the country cannot under- stand Indian weather. They imagine it is equally hot all the year round ; that the same seasons prevail, north, south, east and west, forgetting the difference there must be in the latitude and longitude of the different parts. Even, if in conversation with an ordinarily intelligent Englishman, you should allude to the cold, he looks at you in surprise and thinks you must make a mistake. " Cold in India ! dear me ! I thought it never could be cold there," is usually his answer. Now I have had my say about the weather, I am going to begin my story, which opens at Peshawur, a military and civil station situated in a valley sur- rounded by hills. I need hardly say that Peshawur L 2 4 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. is our last military station in the north of India, the nearest one to the Afghan frontier and the celebrated Khyber pass, of which almost all must have heard some time or other. Every reader of history must be well acquainted with the awful circumstances of that ever memorable Afghan war. Now Afghanistan has lately been so much talked of, written and read about, 1 that few, except those most intensely and wilfully ignorant, can fail to know something about it, although they may be ignorant of the causes of our present difficulties with Afghanistan and the Ameer of Cabul, who, after all, is but a puppet in the hands of a powerful nation. The whole business is but a repetition of the old story of the monkey and the chestnuts, and like it has its moral. No one who has been in that part of India, and lived among the people, or has even the smallest acquaintance with their ways and habits, can for a moment imagine that the nominal ruler of Afghanistan is a free agent, or that he would dare to insult the English government or the English people, (for whom some years back he professed to entertain a great regard,) if he were not made to do so, or at least strongly supported by another nation. Shere Ali paid a visit to India and knows what English regiments and English arms are. Surely he would never dare to fight them by the sole aid of his own semi-trained troops and home-made weapons he 1 Written in November, 1878. INTRODUCTORY. 5 must have more sense than to do so. I must beg the reader's pardon for this digression, as it has nothing to do with the present story, the events of which occurred some years ago. Peshawur is, as I said before, a military and civil station, which in other words means a place containing barracks and troops, as well as the civil courts of law and civil functionaries as Commissioner, Assistant- Commissioner, and their subordinates. Peshawur has also a very strongly-armed fort, and there are always two European infantry regiments, a detachment of artillery, two Bengal cavalry and two native infantry regiments quartered there, so that it has a large gar- rison. It is surrounded by a road called the "Circular Road," on which are posted sentries and guards at short distances. The " Circular Road " and " Mall " are almost the only drives ; the former is the prettiest, for from every part of it there is a view of the lovely hills, though military men hate riding on it on account of the perpetual salutes from the guards just mentioned. There is a very strict rule forbidding all subjects of the English government to go beyond the frontier forts without an armed escort, and after dusk no one is allowed even to go outside the Circular Road. The fact is, our neighbours, the Afghans, are not very peaceably inclined ; they have a way of play- ing at soldiers, trying shots at you as they would at game. It is their mode of being civil and 6 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. friendly I suppose, but we do not relish it much. I cannot say that it is very pleasant, when you are out for a quiet ride across country of an evening, to hear a bullet whiz past you within a few inches of your head ; it at least startles your horse, if no more harm is done. Afghan children are taught to shoot at each other as soon as they can stand ; thus when they grow older they look upon shooting at stray Englishmen as an amusing pastime. They are also taught the use of the knife, which the Afghans always carry as soon as they can hold one. It is a dangerous weapon in their hands, and they are greater adepts at stabbing than shooting one another. They have such an ex- traordinary "nonchalance" about life, they do not much care whether they live or die they are fatalists, as indeed are all the natives of India, though the Indians are not so murderously inclined a race as the mountain tribes of whom I am speaking. There is not a family known in a tribe that has not a "blood feud " with another family which lasts from genera- tion to generation. The first principle the Afghan parent instils into his son is, that he is not to die until he has killed one of the family of the enemy ; often in revenge for an insult that we should think amply absolved when pardon was asked. In regard to their quarrels, one can truly say, manet alta mente repostum, is the feeling they en- courage. The remembrance of their quarrels is INTRODUCTORY. 7 deeply rooted in their minds. Pardon is not a word in their vocabulary; they know not what it is to forgive one another, nor are they softened by Chris- tian principles or Christian morals. Theirs is the religion of the false prophet who enforced his tenets with fire and sword, so different from the real and true " Prophet, Priest, and King," whose life and maxims taught peace and forgiveness. At all events as a result of this, to our way of think- ing extraordinary amusement, the rule before referred to was very necessary. Promises, they say, are made to be broken, and I think the same maxim applies to rules ; for as soon as anything becomes a rule or law, the instinctive opposition that exists in human nature excites people to break it, especially hot-headed young soldiers who always think they know better than their commanding officers, and that no harm can come to them. There are always one or two of this sort in every regiment ; and at Peshawur there was a small band whose delight it was to venture beyond the bounds on the plea of sport, to find some rare game they could find nowhere else. I think these few sport-loving young men must have been bound together by an agreement amongst themselves to break this rule against going beyond bounds whenever they felt inclined, to judge by their rashness and the scrapes they got into. I must say they were manly fellows and the right stuff for soldiers. I do not believe in a milk-and-water man who never got into 8 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. a scrape in his life. They are not the material for soldiers and life's real battle ; they may be valuable in a drawing-room, shine at a kettledrum, or an evening party forsooth, have plenty of small talk to entertain the ladies ; or, at their best, talk of the current topics of the day with their favourite news- paper's view of it. They may make good domestic men, attentive husbands and kind fathers. We must not cry them down though too much, for we do not want every one to be a soldier or all men to be alike. In these days of competitive examinations I think there might almost be an examination, or inquiry I should say, into the scrapes each candidate has got into at school or college. If they are right manly scrapes on the side of sport and honesty, let him pass for the army before the learned student to whom classics will avail little in his career as a soldier. As we shall have much to say about those young sports- men who were very brave but rash and reckless, I must describe them. The moving spirit, I may call him the leader, was a fine, tall young man of about six-and-twenty, with fair hair and a long moustache ; he was a great athlete and sportsman, always to the fore in a long run with the hounds, no matter how steep the country or how wide the ravines. He did not know what fear is; the horse he usually rode for an evening airing knew better how to gallop on his fore-legs than on all four, and yet INTRODUCTORY. 9 he was never thrown. I think he would have ridden a wild elephant without fear, could he have once got within reach of his tail (the method by which the natives mount elephants). Charles Gordon was a fine officer, and much liked by all the men of his regiment ; they admired and respected him although some of the older ones would shake their heads and prophesy that he would come to grief some day. Well, we shall see. Some of these harum-scarum young men do come to sad grief, whilst others have the most wqnderful escapes, getting out of a thousand diffi- culties, out of one of which it would take the lifetime of any steady-going individual to get clear. If I were to try to relate even one-half of the escapades of which Charles Gordon had been the hero before he had entered the army, I should have to write a volume about him only. But I do not wish to write his biography ; my intention is to record events concerning the lives of many during a year's resi- dence in Peshawur, therefore I cannot say much more about him now. His great friend in the regiment was very unlike him, as far as appearance went. Robert Hale was four years Charles Gordon's junior, but having no hair on his face at all, as a natural consequence looked younger. He was short, and had fair curly hair, and might have been taken for a boy of any age io A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. not beyond his teens. He had many of Charles' tastes, and was quite as fond of sport and manly exercises as he was. On account of his size and light weight he was a better hand at " Polo," and was devoted to that game ; for the same reason, added to his being a thoroughly good rider, he was in great request at all the races, and was engaged to ride his friends' horses months beforehand. Lucky the owner of the race-horse thought himself if he could get Robert Hale to ride for him. He was a first-rate amateur jockey and a lucky rider, and was always the favourite jockey with the ladies. Many a pair of gloves did the unfortunate men lose over him to the fair sex, who were not only permitted to have the best of the bargain, but might be trusted to make a good one for themselves. After every suc- cessful race Robert Hale was dragged up to the grand stand to receive the congratulations of the ladies. Yet if he was much more what we may call a " ladies' man " than Charles Gordon, he was not a bit foppish ; he was a man every inch of him. There was something scornful in the way in which Charles Gordon talked to ladies in general as if it were a trouble to him. In fact he was out of his element. A man at all inclined to extremely bachelor habits, has everything in India to encourage him. Ladies are so comparatively scarce, that it is more trouble to cultivate their acquaintance there than in England. Robert Hale in the intervals of sport always liked INTRODUCTORY. i i to spend his time among his lady friends, and it was a good thing for him that he had some very good, kind friends whom he could see at any time ; Major and Mrs. Munro were his chief ones. The Major was in his regiment, and so, of course, unless he took pains to get out of their way, in the ordinary course of events he would see them pretty often. He was drawn more to them than to many others from the beginning, partly because his mother was an old friend in their school-days of Mrs. Munro's, and had asked her to look after her son. Major and Mrs. Munro therefore, from the time Robert Hale joined the regiment at Peshawur, had treated him almost as their own son. A few months after reaching Peshawur, Robert Hale was down with fever, and a pretty sharp attack he had too and the Munros took him into their house and nursed him through it and kept to him until he was quite well and strong. This attack was a good lesson for him, and made him more careful in future. He had brought the fever entirely upon him- self by his great rashness. He would go out in the middle of the day shooting, in a tiny cap. Mrs. Munro gave him many a lecture, with some good result ; she told him he was fortunate to have escaped so easily this time, for many a man had to go home on sick leave after Peshawur fever. This lever is of a very peculiar kind, and the after-effects sometimes last a lifetime. 12 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. Many a young man's life in India might have been saved had they had such kind friends as the Munros were to Robert Hale in his illness. A young bachelor with no comforts in his bungalow, his furniture usually consisting of a bed, a table and a few chairs, has no one to give him food, and take care of him. He always, when well, dines at mess, and from the mess-table his food must come. The climate is against him too ; so that many an English mother is left to mourn the loss of a son who might have been spared that grief had her boy only had as kind a friend as Mrs. Munro was to Robert Hale. CHAPTER II. A PAPER CHASE. THE 39th regiment was commanded by Colonel Lindsay, and he and Major Munro, who was second in command, were great friends ; a friendship to which Robert Hale owed something, for the Major had spoken a good word for him on several occasions when some mad freak had reached the Colonel's ears. The Colonel was a kind man ; the youngsters called him a " regular brick," as he invariably outside duty shut his ears whenever he could to their escapades. On duty he was their commanding officer, and they knew well no one had a sharper eye for any careless or wilful neglect than he had. On parade no one could be more particular than he was, for he expected every man to act as if he were preparing for immediate service. The conse- quence of this was that he obtained no end of " Kudos" from inspecting officers, and his regiment was always ready for inspection. Colonel Lindsay 14 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. was not only a strict parade officer, but he loved his regiment next to his wife, and took the greatest trouble and interest in the whole working of its machinery. He knew, too, that the curse of the British soldier in India, viz., " idleness," was the root of most of the evils which befall him. The soldiers who were idly inclined, were sure to be those who were most easily tempted by boon companions to waste both time and money in drink. I suppose I ought almost to say that drinking is the root of all the evil, and so no doubt it is, for it leads to ill-health and entire bodily and moral demoralisation everywhere. In a hot country like India, a man whose whole frame is shattered by excess in drink is surely not likely to be able to withstand the ravages of fever and disease, so common there, so well as one who is abstemious, and consequently possessed of all his faculties of mind and body. Colonel Lindsay, in order to extirpate this evil at its root, used his whole energy to give occupation to the men, and encourage them to work for their own amusement and profit, and so occupy their spare time. The Indian days are long and weary to soldiers, as they are to others ; and to be cooped up in barracks all day with nothing to do, as they usually are the greater part of the year, is so trying that it is no wonder they drink to kill the time that hangs so heavily on their hands. The men of the 39th had no excuse for being A PAPER CHASE. 15 idle, for they had every incentive to work according to their tastes. Colonel Lindsay did not undertake all that he did for the soldiers single-handed. Major Munro took an equal interest in it, and their example inspired the younger officers also to help and give some of their time to the soldiers. Each of these officers had one department to super- intend, of which he was the referee on all occa- sions. The workshop was the most crowded, and the largest room of all. There, all kinds of car- pentering were done, from fancy chairs and tables to packing cases. The sergeant who was in charge of it had learned the trade, and was of the great- est use to many a young man who came in to try his hand at work with a very small knowledge of plane or saw. Then there were the gardens, where they worked night and morning, the produce of which they were allowed to sell. There was a little vegetable market in the early morning, twice a week, where many a lady's " khansamah " l would be seen, even daring to beat the soldiers down in the prices they asked. A native cannot understand that any one should mean what he says, especially in money matters. For instance, if the soldier seller or his wife perhaps may keep the market-stall should say when asked " This cabbage is two annas," the audacious native servant would be certain to take it up and say, 1 Butler. 1 6 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. " Hum turn ko ek anna dega, bus hai," l and march off triumphantly with it at his price. Their ways used to provoke amusement among the soldiers, more than anger, as they were so accustomed to them ; but occasionally a little bad language ensued, as the natives were sometimes too aggravating to permit the straightforward Englishman to keep his temper. This little vegetable-market was a great boon to the English residents, as they were enabled by it to get nice English vegetables easily ; and it especially benefited the soldiers' families who had no gardens. Another incentive to good gardening was the annual flower show, at which prizes were given for the finest flowers and vegetables. There was a library and reading-room in the regi- ment for the soldiers, as well as a gymnasium, a band room, and a department for those who worked in leather, and even a room devoted to the tailoring and needlework branch. There was also a class-room, where a class was held by one of the officers for the younger men, in which both the Colonel and Major often had readings of an evening. They also used to get up " Penny Readings " about once a month in the sergeant's mess, which were looked forward to and enjoyed by all, and some of the ladies of the regiment used to attend them. The unfortunate soldiers' wives, who are more to be pitied in India than the soldiers themselves, were not forgotten. 1 I will give you one anna, that is quite enough. A PAPER CHASE. 17 They had a work-room to themselves which was large and comfortable, in which they could do any kind of needlework. Some of the women were dress- makers, and others washerwomen, and full employ- ment they found, notwithstanding the " Dirzees " and " Dhobees " that Anglo-Indians swear by. We have now seen that Colonel Lindsay's regiment was quite a model to all others, and he and his officers were as thoroughly popular as they deserved to be with the men. Really, the lines of the 39th were worth inspection, and all agreed in saying " They were a lucky lot." Colonel Lindsay was a married man, but his wife was in England at this time ; she was to join him at Peshawur at the beginning of the next cold season with their eldest daughter. There were four ladies now with the regiment, including the Quartermaster's wife and daughter. The Quartermaster's wife in a European regiment, is rarely a lady by birth, although considered to be in society when her hus- band has attained the rank of a commissioned officer and been made Quartermaster. For he then dines at mess, and associates with the officers, and his wife must naturally be on visiting terms with the ladies in the regiment at least ; although unless she be superior to the ordinary stamp, few outside it recognise her. Mrs. O'Dowd, the Quartermaster's wife of the 39th, was a worthy woman who had struggled hard c 1 8 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. to bring up a large family on small means ; more- over they were all in India, no small test of her discretion and good sense. No country can be more trying to bring up children in, both bodily and morally, than India. The O'Dowds had eight, and all were with them. Their eldest daughter was seventeen, and she had been home for a short period and had just returned. Miss O'Dowd was the only unmarried girl in the regiment. The Adjutant, Captain Chaplin, was married ; he had a charming and very pretty little wife ; they had been married only a few months. He met her in the hills at Murree the year before, and became en- gaged. She was the daughter of what they call a " faltoo Colonel," who was spending six months with his family in the hills. What an easy-going life these faltoo Colonels do lead out there ! They can always get six months' leave to the hills or Cashmere, and when they are in the plains in the winter have little to do except attend occasional " courts of inquiry," and " courts martial." Mrs. Chaplin was eighteen when she married, only a few months older than Miss O'Dowd. This young lady had little fasci- nation of manner to compensate for her somewhat angular figure and hard-featured face, for pre- viously to a short stay at a second-rate school at home, she had passed all her time in the barracks. Still Miss O'Dowd had come out with the impression that she was to be the attraction in the regiment, and A PAPER CHASE. 19 would monopolise the attentions of the stern sex. Great was her mortification, when Mrs. Chaplin appeared on the scene a few weeks after her own arrival from England, to find that the adjutant's wife was a greater favourite than herself. It would be useless to give way to fits of jealousy, for no one would pay attention to them ; indeed she was hardly noticed when taking no pains to conceal her mortifi- cation ; she would make spiteful little speeches about Mrs. Chaplin, equally unheeded. Mrs. Chaplin would have befriended the girl, who would have been far wiser had she accepted the offers of friendship in- stead of scorning them. The secret of Miss O'Dowd's extreme jealousy of Mrs. Chaplin was, the fact that almost immediately after her arrival she imagined herself to be violently in love with a certain young Lieutenant. This gentleman, however, it should be said, had not returned her affection, for one very certain reason he was not aware of it. It would no doubt have been very much better for Miss O'Dowd had she remained with her mother instead of going to the school ; for her head must have been crammed full of nonsense there or she would not have thought that the first young man who showed her any civility was in love with her. Mr. O'Dowd was himself rather popular with the young officers, and always did them a good turn when he could ; and so Robert Hale, like any other good- natured man, offered to lend his daughter a pony C 2 2o A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. and take her for a ride, soon after her arrival. He was a good-looking youth, and an immense favourite with the galaxy of rank and beauty of Peshawur, so the fault was not his if Miss O'Dowd should instantly fall in love with him. Robert Hale had never said or done anything to encourage such an idea ; he had only shown her the ordinary gallantry which every true gentleman shows to a gentlewoman. Thus she had only herself to blame. Robert Hale was the last man in the world to flirt with a girl when as in this case nothing serious could be his intention. The connexion of all this with Mrs. Chaplin is this : Robert Hale from the time the Adjutant brought his wife to the regiment was constantly with them. The Chaplins liked him, and used constantly to ask him to join their rides, and dine with them. Miss O'Dowd, therefore, put all her imaginary blighted hopes down to Mrs. Chaplin's influence, and so was madly jealous of her. I must say her jealousy did that lady little harm. It was really too absurd. Robert Hale was not the only man at Peshawur, and as has been said had never led the young lady to suppose that he admired her at all. Another sore point with Miss O'Dowd was Mrs. Chaplin's good riding, and the praise she heard of it from all quarters. Mrs. Chaplin was a perfect horsewoman, and rode like a bird across country, and on anything but the quietest of steeds too. She was quite reckless on horseback, consequently though her riding was the A PAPER CHASE. 21 admiration of all beholders, her husband had many a fright during a run with the hounds or even in a paper chase, which the young men, especially t the " roystering band," were very fond of getting up. A few weeks after the respective arrivals of the two ladies, a paper chase was organised by Gordon and Hale, and the latter asked Mrs. Chaplin and three or four other ladies belonging to the regiment to join it. They were all to meet at a certain "ghaut;" Gordon was to be the fox, and was to have a start of an hour. Miss O'Dowd asked Mrs. Chaplin to chaperon her, which she gladly did. This was before Miss O'Dowd's resentment passed ordinary bounds ; now they were friends, that is to all outward seeming. Miss O'Dowd was riding her father's horse, a very quiet, steady old Arab, " warranted sound and with no vice." The two ladies, Captain Chaplin and Robert Hale, were the last to arrive at the ghaut, and no sooner were they espied than the word was given to start, and away they all went, harum-skarum, helter-skelter, like so many mad creatures, over a compound wall, which proved more of a jump than was bargained for, as the wall though low on the road side, had a drop on the other. Mrs. Chaplin's horse was over like the wind ; but poor Miss O'Dowd, when her horse rose for the wall and then descended to the 22 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. ground, was thrown over his head in the most igno- minious fashion. Fortunately for her, she fell right on to the top of a "charpoy," only that moment vacated by the " Chowkedar," who would have been rather astonished had Miss O'Dowd fallen on to him. It takes a good deal to rouse a sleepy native, but in this case the shock would have been sufficient. Poor Miss O'Dowd was picked up from the charpoy, and her horse captured by a young officer of one of the native infantry regiments, a Mr. Brown. He happened to be just behind her when she fell, and apparently was the only one to witness the accident, for in the course of a few minutes all the other riders were almost out of sight, having during that time flown over two more compound walls. The Chaplins at all events did not know anything about Miss O'Dowd's fall, not discovering her absence for a good half hour. Mr. Brown, after escorting the young lady home, rejoined the riding party by a short cut, reaching them in time to set Mrs. Chaplin's mind at ease, by telling her that her friend was unhurt, and already resting in her own home. The fox they were pursuing sustained his wily character well, for his dodges to put them on the wrong track were most artful. He would scatter paper here and there in a manner to make them imagine he had taken quite an opposite route to the one he had really followed, and in consequence there was many a false start and unnecessary gallop. A PAPER CHASE. 23 They had been out a full hour, during which the grass had not grown under their feet. They were now a good eight miles from Peshawur, having been dodged backwards and forwards, and in and out, when they came to a large " nullah " with water at the bottom of it, and far too wide for a comfort- able jump. It was very evident the fox had crossed it, for there were his marks plainly visible, also on the opposite side. They all came to a halt to discuss the next move. Mrs. Chaplin was for trying the jump; her husband begged her not to do so. The two other ladies of the party said they would not attempt it, and turned away, followed by four or five young men who declared their horses could not take such a flying leap, and so of necessity they must try to find another crossing. Not so Mrs. Chaplin ; her spirit was roused, and nothing would keep her back. She spurred her little horse, and with a cheery word over he went. Was she safe ? Oh ! what was that ? His off hind foot had slipped, and he was sliding backwards into the stream, struggling with all his might to regain his footing, but unable of himself to recover it, so slippery was the bank. In less than a moment Robert Hale recognized her peril, flew over, was off his horse and had clutched her rein just in time to save her. What might have happened in another half second no one dared say. Had the horse fallen back, its rider must have fallen under it, and with a lady's 24 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. saddle the consequences would have been too dreadful to contemplate, to say nothing of the wetting she would have had. Captain Chaplin did not see his wife's danger until it was over, so sudden and un- expected had been her jump. He had been at the time a little in the rear talking to another man, and was only attracted by Hale's exclamation as he spurred his horse for the jump. Captain Chaplin followed him. He could not speak, his heart was too full of thankfulness for his dear wife's escape, and of gratitude to the gallant youth who had saved her. Mrs. Chaplin was a plucky little woman, for it must be allowed she had had a fright of no mean sort. But nothing would make her give in, she would go on ; and in a minute she and the few who were left were again galloping, making their way to a small enclosure which was straight ahead, a right hiding-place for a real fox, and a capital one for this wily "Mr. Reynard." They spied him at last, and he, allowing the only lady now of their party to get within a few yards of him, gave them a chase, not allowing himself to be captured until he had reached the racecourse, by which time the sun was pretty hot, a pretty clear hint that it was time to go home to breakfast. Miss O'Dowd never forgave Mrs. Chaplin for that ride, and did not willingly speak to her again for a long time. This was littleness of mind no doubt. But perhaps A PAPER CHASE. 23 we should consider the circumstances. At least it was trying that the man whom she imagined she loved passionately, should be the one to save her rival's life. It is said that jealousy is love, but I deny it, for though jealousy be produced by love, as ashes are by fire, yet jealousy extinguishes the loye, as ashes, smother the flame, CHAPTER III. AN EVENTFUL JOURNEY. IT was now May, and each day saw gharree-loads of ladies and children taking their departure for the hills. The furlough season all over India opens on the I5th of April, and closes on the I5th of October, when all military men are expected to be again at their posts. The 1 5th of April is almost too early to care to go away on leave from Peshawur, as the weather there is far from unpleasant, being quite bearable for at least another month. However, as every officer in native regiments at least is entitled to two months' privilege leave, some must go on the I5th of April if they are to go away at all. That day generally sees the first flight, and dak gharrees have to be engaged for it some time before. Those fortunate ones, too, who are going for six months to Cashmere or the hills, are also of the first flight. The ladies and children whose husbands are not able to accompany them, but hope perhaps to join them a month or so later, generally go from Peshawur to their summer home about the beginning of May. AN EVENTFUL JOURNEY. 27 The hills are indeed in all their beauty then. The beautiful rhododendron-trees and the tree geraniums are in full blossom. There is such a grandeur about everything in the hills ; all is on such a large scale. The only insignificant things are the works of men ; their habitations are as dots on a majestic picture. Indeed one may everywhere, and in all parts of this wonderful earth, worship nature, and so feel the hand of nature's God. Wherever one turns, there is something to admire and reverence in the unseen Hand who made all things ; but nowhere can one be more inspired with that intense feeling of awe and wonder at the supreme majesty of one's God than in these mighty and glorious mountains, " Nature ! Great Parent ! whose unceasing hand Rolls round the seasons of the changeful year, How mighty, how majestic are thy works ! With what a pleasing dread they swell the spul ! That sees, astonish'd ! and astonish'd, sings ! " Oh ! if I only could find words to describe the feeling that comes over one when first visiting these glorious mountains. One seems really to realise truly what an insignificant creature is man ! what a minute particle of God's handiwork one huma nbeing is. One's spirit is raised from earth to heaven. Every lover of nature must feel what my poor words are inadequate to express, that ennobling, raising sensation, when one's eyes first view those, to human eyes, interminable mountains, each with a structure 2 8 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. peculiarly its own ; the distant ones with their snow- capped pointed peaks, all so blended together, as to form one mighty panorama of glorious beauty. I must now return to Peshawur and life there, as the story has nothing to do with the hills, and the reader would like to know something about the journey and the mode of travelling. The mighty monster which is as though an infant in the power of man, has not as yet invaded the valley of Peshawur ; so all travellers are obliged to travel by dak gharree, a very pleasant mode of conveyance when it is a good one and the horses are tractable. It is a long night's journey from Pesha- wur to Rawul Pindee, a large military station forty miles from Murree. About half way between Pesha- wur and Pindee there is a river to cross at Attock, where there is a fort. In the winter the river is crossed by a bridge of boats ; but after the snows have melted in the near hills, it becomes fuller and larger, and the bridge of boats has to be replaced by a ferry. This is very troublesome, as it necessi" tates your turning out in the middle of the night, when it is pitch dark, and bundling all your things out of the dak gharree and giving them to coolies, who are waiting to take them into the large boat, or properly speaking, barge. Your energies are pretty well taxed, and your temper thoroughly tried in the effort to keep your eyes on these officious coolies, who swarm like bees, and eagerly seize your things AN EVENTFUL JQURNEV. 291 before you know what you are about, and of course invariably the wrong ones. The chances are, you are sound asleep when you get to the river, and are only awoke by the shrill cries of the native coachmen, hallooing to the boat- men that passengers have arrived. Well, if asleep, you naturally want a few minutes to wake up and dress yourself, at least to put on your boots, for you must take these off to sleep comfortably. You feel sure you have stowed them away on the shelf at the end of the gharree, and cannot find them in the dark. Only one boot is there ! Oh dear ! oh dear ! what has happened to the other ? You cry, " Coolie, coolie, buttee lao juldi hum jutee nai milsekta, 1 * l and you get one of the flaming torches held at the door to enable you to look for the missing boot. No, it is not to be found. Surely that coolie has not taken it with the basket of soda-water to the boat it was close to it. " Jou dekko," 2 you frantically cry, and in a few minutes he brings it back tri- umphantly. Then your coat and hat are missing. Well, you can do without those, or you must ; and so turn out in shirt-sleeves, and order the coolies to bring bedding and pillows. In a few minutes you are in the boat, all your things in a tangled mass at the bottom, and a shrill yell announces its start. 1 " Coolie, bring a light quickly ! I cannot find my boot." 2 " Go and see." 3O A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. Natives never can do anything without a great noise ; they seem to be born with the idea that every- body is deaf. If they are not themselves hard of hearing they certainly are of comprehension, which perhaps accounts for the idea. Well, you have just settled in the boat and are fairly off, the Attock fort looming dark over the black waters, and are perhaps wishing yourself in a comfortable English train crossing the river on a bridge, instead of in this barbarous fashion, when a rude shock and a terrific yell rouse you, and you are sent flying to the other end of the boat, vainly asking, " What is the matter ? " but no attention is paid ; the native boat- men are too much taken up. With quarrelling ? No, not that. It is their mode of talking. They are gesticulating as fast as they can ; you can do nothing hut listen, and at last you hear, " Qua kurro lahassu toot gea," 1 and you now know what has happened. The current is very strong in these rivers ; it is dangerous navigation too, and at certain places a rope has to be thrown ashore to be held by somebody there to keep the boat from drifting away. At last you make them listen to you, and when they find you have a rope at the bottom of the boat tied round your bedding, and can let them have it, they immediately invoke "Allah," fall at your feet and call you their preserver. The rope is mended by the help of yours, and the landing-place is at length reached. 1 " What is to be done? the rope is broken." AN EVENTFUL JOURNEY. 31 Out you jump, and the same scene takes place as before, only you are too wide awake to have your boots carried off, or anything else. The coolies too have no chance of succeeding in cheating. All your things have to be bundled on to the gharree that is in waiting, and with a shout to the horses and a blow of the horn you are off until the next stage, where you may be delayed for half an hour by a horse refusing to start. To a looker-on for the first time the scene is amusing. The variety of tempers the dak horses display is great. There are the "jibbers." Besides these are the ones that refuse to move at all, as stolid as the monument itself, allowing every kind of tor- ture to be inflicted on them ; lashed with a whip of knotted cord by the infuriated driver from the box ; pulled by a long rope tied to the fore-leg by a man in front ; pushed from behind by the wheels of the gharree which alone must cause pain. But these horses when they do deign to start, are the best goers ; they go off with a bound, which the coach- man insists on keeping up. Then there are the " kickers," and the one that often whirls round and round. One moment he will put his head in at one door, and the next his heels are banging at the other. All you can do is to sit still and wait patiently until they make up their minds to start, and be thankful when they are off. These incidents are of very frequent occurrence in a dak gharree journey. 3 2 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR, If it was not for them a long dak journey would be pleasanter than a railway one, as you can make yourself very comfortable with pillows, rezaies (a kind of quilt), and almost imagine yourself in bed. Of course there are drawbacks ; the dust for one thing being at times suffocating It penetrates everywhere, and whatever colour your hair may be naturally, it is pretty grey at the end of your journey. However a plunge into a big bath, and a bottle of iced soda-water at the Dak Bungalow, or hotel, in Pindee, soon restore your equanimity. The ordinary male traveller is generally " booked through," and so has no time for this, as he is landed at the post-office, and then has to start off again in the hill-cart for Murree. The hill-cart is a little light, low, open conveyance, with a canvas hood, and supposed to hold four people back to back. It is so light that the horses gallop the forty miles in about four or five hours, the vehicles being made expressly for galloping up and down hill. Now I have described an ordinary dak gharree journey, I am going to relate a most adventurous one, in which Miss O'Dowd and another lady were the chief actors. The O'Dowd family, had determined to start for the hills on the 8th of May, and had engaged three dak gharrees for that day, into which they were going to pack themselves ; and a friend, a Mrs. Vivian, who was to share a gharree with Miss O'Dowd. Into the other two were AN EVENTFUL JOURNEY. 33 to go " pater " and " materfamilias " and the younger ones, the four boys and three girls, who were to distribute themselves as best they could with their parents. They had arranged to start about five o'clock, so as to reach Pindee before it became unpleasantly hot the following morning. The hot winds which had set in prevailed in the daytime, but the nights were not very oppressive. The two gharrees con- taining the heavy loads just described started first. Miss O'Dowd had to wait for Mrs. Vivian to call for her, the gharree having gone round to her house first ; so the two were a good half-hour behind the others in starting ; but as they were comparatively lightly laden having with them only a dog and cat, a few bottles of soda-water, and a bag or so they overtook the others about the third stage. All went smoothly until they reached Attock ; they only met with a few contretemps at the changing- places from kicking and obstinate horses ; but those accustomed to Indian travelling think nothing of this ; in fact, they become callous to everything almost, and wonder how people get on who travel in comfort, thinking what a curious sen- sation it must be. They crossed the river together, and had not even the excitement of a bump, and were congratulating themselves how well they were getting on, and how quickly too. They found their three gharrees waiting for them. The parents and D 34 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. children packed themselves in first, as that was the chief business, for it required no small ingenuity to cram in so many of the small fry. So tightly were they packed when they did start, that they might not unfairly be compared to sardines in a tin. Then Mrs. Vivian and Miss O'Dowd placed themselves side by side ; the most comfortable arrangement when two people are in a dak gharree, otherwise you are apt to find the heel of somebody's boot or foot, if it is bootless in your face, which is not always pleasant ! Mrs. Vivian, as she got into the gharree said to her companion, " How impatient the horses seem, they are actually pawing the ground. The eyes of one roll so too the one on my side ; such an awfully vicious look it has, like a wild creature more than a tame horse. I suppose they are safe enough, though ? " Dak gharree horses are not given to running away ; such an event I should say was almost unheard of in the annals of the history of a dak horse. Poor creatures ! they hardly get corn enough to have strength to run at all. Their lives must be short, with spare food and hard work ; the necessity to go six miles at full gallop with a load behind them, is enough to kill most horses at the end of a couple of years. Neither Mrs. Vivian nor Miss O'Dowd were in the least nervous, so they thought no more of the fierce- AN EVENTFUL JOURNEY. 35 eyed horse and the stamping and snorting. Nor had they heard the remark the "syce" (groom) made to the coachman, which, translated into exact English was " Take care of this devil, he has a temper, and has not been broken in." Any other coachman would have remonstrated at being given such a horse to drive, especially for the coming stage, which was the most dangerous of the whole journey. But this Jehu cared nought for pulling or ill-tempered horses ; he had been in Government employ, and had driven on this road for the last ten years, and he was not now going to be mastered by an obstreperous horse, he had driven too many of them. He was supposed to be the safest coachman on the road ; not only a careful driver, and one who managed horses best, but also one who did not exasperate them by unnecessary flogging as so many of them will do, imagining, I suppose, that they are pleasing the impatient English- man inside. Why are Englishmen so impatient in India ? Perhaps it is the contrast to the ever-patient Hindoo, or is that patient Hindoo himself the one everlasting cause of the Englishman's impatience ? the perpetual irritant in his daily life and intercourse with the people ? Well, they were off, starting with a plunge and a bound, and were well out of sight of Attock, and the two ladies were preparing themselves for sleep, when they felt a bumping and a most unusual shaking. First the gharree went to one side and D 2 36 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR then to the other ; then they apparently drove over a hillock, next into a ditch, and then on the side of a bank ; and all the time they were going at a furious pace. They were afraid to open the sliding doors and look out, as every instant they expected to be upset, and they had to thank their good sense in so doing, that they were unhurt. Had they opened the door and looked out, that very action might have been sufficient to turn over the gharree, and one or other would probably have had a broken arm or leg, or even worse. A poor woman a sergeant's wife had been killed only a short time before by leaning out of the door ; for the gharree upset right on to her head a most fearful accident, but perfectly true. This was a warning to them. They remained perfectly still and held on to the sides, though greatly frightened, as they both knew the danger they were in, for there was a precipice not far off, and if the horses made for it in the dark, they would all go over into the river and be dashed to pieces. After they had been galloping over hill and dale across country, they were brought to a sudden halt ; so sudden that the shock was tremendous. After a while, feeling no movement, they quietly slid back the door and looked out. Mrs. Vivian asked the coachman what was the matter. He told her the horses had broken away, carrying poles, shafts, and reins with them, and left AN EVENTFUL JOURNEY. 37 him sitting on the box. An elevated seat certainly, but it was rather a humiliating position for the man. He, the oldest driver on the road to be served thus ; he who had so long driven the " Sahiblogue " to and from Rawul Pindee, and had been the chosen coachman for the gharrees when chartered for the Lord Sahibs who occasionally visited Peshawur these were Ahmed Khan's indignant thoughts. In truth Ahmed Khan's pride had had a fall ; he could now no longer boast that he had met with no serious accident. This was indeed a serious one, but might have been far worse. They were left on a sloping bank, and to look at the position of the gharree it would seem as though a touch could upset it ; and a touch would have been sufficient to do so, had the weight been at the top ; but fortunately there were no boxes on the top, only in the bottom of the gharree, called the well, under their bed, and that helped to steady it. They had had a narrow escape of a very dangerous accident; the horses only stopped short by a few yards of the precipice ; and had they not broken away when they did, in all human probability death must have ensued. What cause they had for thankfulness they alone could tell. The coachman in his Pathan dialect kept on repeating, " Allah be praised that we are not all dead men." - Now. what was to be done? They could not stay 38 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. where they were, eight miles from Attock and twenty from the nearest place where gharrees were pro- curable, " Hassan Abdul." If the coachman went to the next stage for horses, they would not be of any use without poles, shafts, and traces. For the whole of the front part of the coach-box had been carried away by the horses, and it was truly a mercy that all about the gharree was so rotten as to have enabled them to do it, and so have saved the inmates. This was the means used by an All Powerful Hand to save them, for had the horses not freed themselves they must all have been destroyed. Ahmed Khan was humbled ; but most people who have to suffer from their pride, always punish themselves in the end, and he, in this instance, was no exception to the rule, as we shall see presently. He, "Ahmed Khan the great," he would have dubbed himself, so high was his estimation of him- self he, the oldest Gharreewan on the road, who had driven the Burra-burra Lord Sahib and several other Lord Sahibs too, to be beaten by two vicious horses ! Oh ! he thought, how he wished he could catch them, that he could give them his opinion in real earnest a forcible opinion, too ! no via media for these poor horses. If we read these tones and looks aright of the formerly great Ahmed Khan, the wretched animals would have fared badly indeed ! Let us hope that they may escape being again AN EVENTFUL JOURNEY. 39 harnessed to his dak gharree until he has forgotten his threats. Well, the hero of the broken coach-box sat for a few minutes cogitating with himself as to his next proceeding, and did not vouchsafe to reply im- mediately to the demands of the inmates of the disabled gharree to "jou " and get a "doosera" gharree as "juldi" as possible. All he said was, in the intervals of a puff at his hookah " Ha-me Sahib hum jata " (Yes, I am going). Many an appeal did the helpless ladies make to him without any better response. At last he arose, having made up his mind he quietly told them, that he would be obliged to go twenty miles before he could bring them another gharree, and they must not expect him until seven o'clock in the morning it now being between twelve and one o'clock. He intended to ride to Hassan from the next changing place, where he should find a horse. The poor ladies found it useless trying to persuade him to return to Attock, which was but eight miles off he had told them so himself where he was sure to find one. With the natives' habit of lying they know not what truth means, it lies at the bottom of a well with them truly he had plenty of reasons ready for not adopting this sensible course. " All the gharrees were out, he knew ; and those that were there, were of no use," was one of fifty equally lame excuses. 40 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. Mrs. Vivian, who was an experienced traveller, could not make his real reasons out. But the two helpless ladies were in his hands ; there was no man at hand to compel him to retrace his steps to Attock. Ahmed's real reason, which of course he never gave, was that he did not wish it to be known at Attock (where he lived) that he had come to grief. Thus, pride caused him to undertake the longer ride ; moreover, he knew that at Attock questions would be asked by the post-office authorities (in whose hands the Government daks are), as to why he had allowed the particular horses to be harnessed to the gharree ; he ought at least to have tried to get others, which he had not done. No, he in his pride thought he could manage those horses, but his pride had had a great fall. He knew, too, that they were the same horses which had run away a little while before and caused the death of the poor woman. At the time he had said it was the coachman's fault. I am afraid our friend Ahmed Khan the great " Gharreewan," will not now be able to hold his head very high when he meets the coachman he had condemned. There was nothing for the unfortunate ladies to do but resign themselves to their fate and calmly bear the hot night wind, and the prospect of a suf- focating drive in the heat the next day. They could not now possibly expect to reach Pindee until twelve or one o'clock, by which time the heat would be AN EVENTFUL JOURNEY. 41 unbearable out of a cool bungalow ; but this was little to the prospect of passing the night by the road side. They had never been exposed to the heat before ; and now they found even the night air hot and un- pleasant, no longer driving quickly through it but at a stand still, and without a punkah, and so tired as they were too. Miss O'Dowd determined to lie down in- side and go to sleep ; but Mrs. Vivian said she could not do that, as some of the wild people might come and rob them, and might carry them off if they found them asleep. Attock is close by a country inhabited by a number of the wild mountain tribes, who are con- stantly giving us some sort of trouble. They found they were not very far from the high road, indeed they were within sight of it. They had apparently taken a good gallop across country, and no doubt a short cut, which had induced the horses to career over it to reach the road again, which here winds very much. Mrs. Vivian had been sitting on the bank about an hour, feeling very weary and very thirsty, when she de- scried a gharree coming from the Peshawur direction at full gallop. She immediately began waving her handkerchief and ran towards the road, so as to bring the gharree to a standstill. This she succeeded in doing after a minute or two, for the servant on the box seeing her, told the coachman to stop. She ran up to them and asked the man if he would leave word at the Dak Bungalow at Pindee that she and 42 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. Miss O'Dowd were all safe, and only waiting for another gharree to arrive. She knew Mrs. O'Dowd would be anxious about their non-appearance. The explanation took some time, and just as she had finished it a head appeared outside the door using anything but the mildest of language to the coach- man, requesting to know why he did not proceed. When the head on the further side was withdrawn, a door slid back on the side where Mrs. Vivian was standing, and another appeared ; when, fortunately for the lady, there was in an instant mutual recognition. " Dear me, Mrs. Vivian ! how you did startle me ! What are you doing in this wild place, and all alone too?" She told him her story, which the reader already knows, and Mr. Brown for it was no other than the lieutenant, who had escorted Miss O'Dowd home from the paper chase immediately spoke to his companion, who seemed to agree to what he said. Mr. Brown then turned to Mrs. Vivian and said " You must accept our place in this gharree and go at once in it. We will wait until yours arrives from Hassan Abdul; we men are accustomed to exposure more than you ladies are, and it will never do to leave you both here alone. We could not possibly proceed at all under the circumstances. You shall have our servant also with you." Mrs. Vivian was too pleased at this prospect to do anything but willingly accept the offer; she AN EVENTFUL JOURNEY. 43 carried Mr. Brown off with her to her gharree, leaving his friend Mr. Jones, and the bearer, to take out their things, and their boxes off the top. Then they all helped to carry the ladies' baggage, and arrange it in the gharree the gentlemen had vacated. Miss O'Dowd was sound asleep, when Mrs. Vivian awoke her with the news of their good luck. It was indeed good fortune, and poor Mrs. Vivian felt thankful to be emancipated from her watch by the road-side. Mr. Brown was a very gallant young man, and this was the second time he had come to Miss O'Dowd's rescue very strange, and certainly accidental. He was a very unselfish man in both instances he instantly gave up his own com- fort to help another. They were off in about half an hour, and as they did not pass the empty gharree coming for them until within a few miles from Hassan Abdul, it is clear they would indeed have had ages to wait for it but for the lieutenant's opportune arrival. CHAPTER IV. A COURT MARTIAL. THE weather was now so hot as to make galloping at racing-speed across country, even at the early hour of five or six o'clock, anything but pleasant; the hunting paper-chases and riding parties had to be abandoned, and those unfortunate ones whose doom it was to spend the hot season at Peshawur, began to think of settling down to hot-weather ways, and resigning themselves to fate. A month in the hot season seems like an inter- minable day ; so monotonous are the hours, to-morrow so completely the counterpart of yesterday, that it is difficult even to remember the days of the week. Yet the twenty-four hours seem like a month in length ; in the morning we say how thankful we shall be when evening comes ; in the evening how grateful for the next morning. It is sad to contemplate how much precious time is wasted by Anglo-Indians in India, and the trying part is, that it is in most cases un- avoidable, as far as the hot weather is concerned ; for A COURT MARTIAL. 45 during the greater part of the day the most ener- getic are prostrated with the heat, whilst many have no power to do anything but lie down and groan. Every officer is entitled to two months' leave if he can get it ; and to arrange it, is always a matter of interest and excitement before the leave season opens. The commanding officer takes his choice of the two months he wishes reserved for his own holiday, and the rest of the officers take it in turn and try to arrange it amicably among themselves. The last two months are the most coveted, as not only are they the pleasantest in the hills, but the hot weather ceases with them; so that there is no sudden jump from cold to heat such as falls to the lot of those obliged to return in the middle of the hot weather. It is a curious sensation and the reverse of pleasant that of going down hill and feeling yourself getting hotter and hotter every minute. The Chaplins and Munros were going away for the last two months, and the two ladies intended to remain with their husbands. They had no children to compel them to go, were in good health them- * selves, and did not wish for an excuse. If this remark were more generally applicable to Indian ladies than it is, it would be well ; for many are only too anxious for an excuse to get away to their gaieties. Out of the sixty ladies in Peshawur, only three or four were left to adorn the evening 46 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. band-stand with their presence, and so break the monotonous look that assembly would have had, with only stiff, white-coated men on horseback or in their " turn-turns." The Chaplins gave up their evening rides, but on the mornings when Captain Chaplin had no parade, they used to go for a quiet canter through the peach gardens, to try and get a little fresh air before her- metically sealing themselves for the day. The paper- chase in which Mrs. Chaplin so wonderfully escaped was the last she had joined. She suffered a good deal, for the shock had been very severe, although she had only realised her great danger when it was over. She did not forget to thank Him who guided the human hand which was the instrument to save her. The Chaplins and Munros were great friends in every sense of the word ; for disparity in age did not lessen the friendship. Edith Chaplin looked up to Mrs. Munro and respected her, a feeling that had much of sympathy as well, for she felt the older lady was a friend she could turn to in sorrow or joy, for comfort and sympathy, and for good, sound advice in every difficulty. Mrs. Munro was one of the ladies to be met in India but unfortunately very rarely; she was a thoroughly homely person, kind to all around her, yet she was no stiff, starched prude, but a genial and pleasant companion. The young men in the regiment liked her because she entered A COURT MARTIAL. 47 into all their home-sick feelings could talk about the mother in England who was longing to see her son, or the sister who was going to marry " some horrid fellow." Why do brothers always affect to talk of their future brothers-in-law as horrid fellows ? Why should they think their sisters are either not to marry, or else to consult them in their choice ? Mrs. Munro saw Edith Chaplin every day ; they nearly always met at " chota hazree " that inde- scribably pleasant meal so essentially peculiar to Anglo-Indians in India, and one which we cannot make the true-born Briton in England understand. "Chota hazree," or little breakfast, is really the event in the day during the long hot-weather months. The time at which it takes place is according to the season ; but in the hot weather it must be very early. The usual hour is between six and eight o'clock, after the morning ride or parade, as the charm of chota hazree is the being able to partake of it out of doors, either under the shade of a large tree, or in a nice verandah. Though even in such a spot, and at such an hour, a punkah is indispensable. It certainly is a sociable meal, and the Munros tried to make it as much so as possible by allowing any of the officers in the regiment who liked to come in on certain days. Twice a week they had quite a large gathering ; days looked forward to, for these morning meetings and the sociable conversation were a pleasant break in the everyday monotony. The gentlemen felt 48 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. it a relief to get away from men's society and be in Mrs. Munro's presence. " Her voice was ever soft, gentle, and low ; an excellent thing in woman." Men do, however imperceptibly to themselves, feel the subtle influence and refreshment that com- panionship with such a woman affords. Oh ! if women only knew how much influence they have over men, would they not try more than they do to use that influence aright? surely those with one single spark of right feeling would. If there were more ladies like Mrs. Munro in India than there are, I may safely say the tone of society would be raised to a higher standard than it now has. But it would seem that most ladies who go to India entirely change when they get there. The climate and the idle life which is forced upon them are trying, and it is very difficult to fight against everything, to try and be different to their giddy neighbours. Of course the India of to-day is not the India of fifty years ago. The cha- racter it then bore for loose ways and looser morals is not applicable to the present time ; but even now there is a sufficient difference in the proportion of gentlemen and ladies to admit of each lady having if she chooses a few admirers, perhaps all more or less aspirants to her favour. Still it is all the better for her that such should be the case, than that she should allow only one constant attendant to be everlastingly with her the husband, an unconsidered A COURT MARTIAL. 49 trifle. In the former case, no jealous enemy can say a word ; in the latter, tongues will wag and eyes will imply more than the tongues, for a look will kill, where a tongue will heal. I am sorry to say Mrs. Chaplin did not escape these evil tongues ; her name was coupled more with Robert Rale's than her husband would have cared for, had he heard it oftener than any well- wishing friend would desire. Ever since the eventful paper-chase in which Robert Hale saved the lady's life by that instantaneous action, the two had been more together than ever. He was with the Chaplins every day, and often escorted Mrs. Chaplin in her morning rides when her husband was engaged. Neither Edith Chaplin nor her husband gave it a thought ; indeed Captain Chaplin was very fond of the young man, he was so straightforward, and he encouraged him to ride with his wife, and be with them as much as he liked. He did not take into consideration how pretty Mrs. Chaplin was, and that consequently jealous tongues were only too ready to say spiteful things of her. Mrs. Chaplin had another enemy in Peshawur besides Miss O'Dowd ; a Mrs. Jones, a flighty woman, willing to flirt, it might almost be said, with the first comer, in the worst Indian style. She was jealous of Mrs. Chaplin on account of her popu- larity, and the good looks which put her in the shade. For Mrs. Jones had no great charms in E 50 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. spite of the eternal simper with which she tried to appear young and giddy. Yet she always had some admirers in her train. There was some sort of fascination in the woman no doubt ; she was amusing to talk to and amusing talk in the safe companionship of a married woman, has a value of its own with certain men in the monotonous life of India. Captain Chaplin being ordered away to another station on Court-Martial duty, his wife was left alone. Robert Hale came to the house as usual, and escorted her out riding in the morning : he neither went to see her oftener, nor less often, than when her husband was at home. The only difference was, that sometimes she went out riding in the evening instead of driving ; as she had only a buggy, and did not care to be driven in it by Hale but preferred riding with him. On band nights she drove with Mrs. Munro, whilst she dined with the Munros every night. Captain Chaplin had been gone four or five days when Major Munro came in one morning from mess evidently disturbed in mind. Mrs. Munro saw her husband had been put out about something, and immediately asked him what it was. He answered "Yes, dear, I heard something said I did not like." "What do you mean, Edward ?" she inquired. "Oh ! nothing to do with ourselves, dear; but they A COURT MARTIAL. 51 are talking at mess about pretty Edith Chaplin and Hale ; they are too much together." " Why, they are no more together than they were when Captain Chaplin was at home." " That does not matter. These amiable detractors do not take that into their consideration ; they are only too glad to find an opportunity of saying any- thing against Edith. That Mrs. Jones is at the bottom of it I am quite sure, as the remark I heard came from one of her set a young fellow whom I fancy Edith snubbed, and who doubtless is as small-minded as Mrs. Jones must be." "But what can they have to say about poor Edith, who never speaks unkindly of any one ? They would do well to be as good as she is." " It seems that he met Edith and Hale round by the race-course on the new road after dark, and he says they were conversing very earnestly, and insinuates that he overheard some of the conver- sation, and makes much of it. We must do something for her, she is far too pretty to escape malice. " " Shall we ask her here, dear ? The spare room can soon be got ready. It has not been wanted all the hot weather, so the punkah fringe is not on, nor the ' baine ' or ropes, but that is soon done ; I will write at once." "just like you, Mary," said the fond husband, " you are always ready to do a kindness ; write to her at once, and ask her to come and pay us E 2 52 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. a visit, and she can remain with us until Chaplin returns." " He will be back the day after to-morrow, will he not ? " asked the wife. "I am afraid he will be detained longer than he expected, as there was some flaw in the evidence, and the Court had to be adjourned for a day or so ; and then, the chances are it will re-assemble after that. Pindee is too far off to come back on the chance of having to return at his own expense, and the journey is not inviting this hot weather." Mrs. Munro wrote to Edith, who gladly accepted her invitation ; and when the cool of the evening came, she prepared to go over to the Munros' bun- galow, and was with them in time to join their evening drive. That night was band night, and they drove to the band stand, where Mrs. Munro saw Mrs. Jones and the young man who had so maligned her friend Edith Chaplin. She gave Mrs. Jones a steady and straight look meaning much when she acknow- ledged her bow. The look was effective ; Mrs. Jones quivered under it. Mrs. Munro treated the young man with supreme indifference, taking no notice of him at all. Robert Hale was there, and she purposely asked him before Mrs. Jones to come and dine with them that evening, saying to him at the same time, " Mrs. Chaplin is paying us a visit, and you will only meet her no strangers, only friends so don't get A COURT MARTIAL. 53 yourself up this stifling evening regardless of expense." Mrs. Munro said all this loud enough for Mrs. Jones to hear, and yet naturally and simply. Mrs. Jones looked conscience-stricken ; she knew she was the one and she knew now Mrs. Munro knew it as well as herself who had tried to take away Edith's fair fame. " What's Fame ? " " All that we feel of it, begins and ends In the small circle of our foes and friends." Captain Chaplin returned at the end of another week, to Edith's great joy ; no one who witnessed her intense delight could doubt its truth, or that she had done anything but look forward to her husband's return. A pity Mrs. Jones was not behind the " purdah," when he arrived ! How much they had to talk about to be sure, and tell each other. They had never been separated before, and although they had written to each other every other day quite long letters, yet they fancied each could not know what the other had been about. She told her husband how good the Munros had been to her, and how comparatively quickly the last week had passed, with Mrs. Munro to talk to during the day ; whereas, the first week, she had had nobody but her ayah when Robert Hale left her in the morning after he had taken her for a ride, when not on parade. 54 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. The men of the 39th had, as we have seen, a kind and considerate commanding officer who did not grind them on parade, and being so thoroughly well drilled in the winter they could rest in the summer. They had a commanding officer's parade and also an adjutant's, once a week, but no more. Of course an orderly-room was an absolute necessity, no Euro- pean regiment can do without it. Young soldiers will disobey their superiors, soldiers will be absent at " roll call " occasionally, or call one another bad names, or be " cheeky " to their sergeant. There was one very bad case that summer, which ended in a Court Martial. One soldier insulted an- other, calling him some opprobrious name ; the other, a hot-headed young Irishman, drew his bayonet, and went at the man, when his hand was stayed by a looker-on. They were both put under arrest, and the case reported at the orderly-room. When Colonel Lindsay inquired into it, he found there was, as usual, a woman at the bottom of it. The case was this : a private, Smith, had died in the early spring, of Peshawur fever, and left a widow to whom Private Thompson proposed the day after her husband's funeral, and only two days after his death for he was buried the day after he died. She accepted him. But a few days afterwards Corporal Green proposed to her, and to him she also said " Yes." Now as she could not mean " Yes " to both, she was naturally in a difficulty of no small dimensions. A COURT MARTIAL. 55 However, she managed to explain to Private Thomp- son, that she had changed her mind. He was not by any means desperately in love with Mrs. Smith. He simply thought he had better not lose the chance of getting her for his wife if he could, as she was a comparatively young woman, and very comely, and likely to be sought after. Thus, so far as the widow was concerned he did not take the refusal much to heart ; he could wait for the chance of another ; but he hated Corporal Green and swore to be revenged on him they had never been friends as he thought he had only proposed to Mrs. Smith to spite him. So in a fit of sudden anger, after being called a bad name by Corporal Green, he drew his bayonet, not thinking of the consequences. They were tried by Court Martial. Corporal Green escaped with the loss of his stripes ; he was reduced to a private, which was a great disgrace ; whilst Private Thompson had six months' cells. The whole matter was a source of great sorrow to Colonel Lindsay ; he felt for a soldier's misconduct almost as though he had been his own child. CHAPTER V. PESHAWUR FEVER. THE much looked forward to rainy season had begun in Peshawur ; the poor thirsty earth drank in the welcome draught as copiously and greedily as any great monster might do. Everything was as parched and dried up as it well could be ; the roads were hard and cracked ; the gardens, flowers, and vegetation of all kinds, had been burnt up long be- fore ; the wells were drying, for the rains were late this year. A drought was threatened, and the Cavalry regi- ments would have been obliged to march out into camp had not the welcome thunder-storm (which as surely ushers in rain as the drum announces the approach of a regiment) burst upon the cantonment. One might indeed say with Byron " Till taught by pain, Men really know not what good water's worth, If you had been in Turkey or in Spain, Or with a famish'd boat's crew had your berth, Or in the desert heard the camel's bell, You'd wish yourself where truth is in a well." PESHAWUR FEVER. 57 Good water in Peshawur was scarce at all times ; there was plenty of water to be seen, but little to drink. There are running streams of water that come originally from the hills, but pass through many a dirty village ere they reach Peshawur. These streams run on each side of the road, and are convenient for watering the garden, as they can be turned on to it without any difficulty. The necessary watering constitutes the trouble of an Indian garden. It is useful, too, for washing pur- poses, but highly dangerous g,s a beverage. Indeed the bad water in this part of India is one of the principal causes of the great sickness which at times prevails at Peshawur. When one thinks of this poisonous water, and how many drink it, both natives and Europeans, who can wonder that every sort of fever and disease prevail, and are rife there ? Nor is this the only evil that accrues from the running streams that pervade the place. These do harm, and even more certain harm in another way ; the damp rises from them in a sort of mist, and this mist is the fever poison. Doctors may quarrel over their pet theories upon the origin of different diseases, but as Shakespeare hath it " Diseases desperate grown, By desperate appliance are relieved, Or not at all. " They (the doctors) have put their heads together often enough over that everlasting puzzle, the Peshawur 58 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. fever, and all the other sicknesses with which the place abounds ; for it is not fever alone that carries off human beings at times like rotten sheep ; pneu- monia or lung disease is particularly peculiar to this station of Northern India ; and the natives who are attacked by it die in numbers, especially in the winter. I think if a treatise were written on the unhealthiness of Peshawur, which is rightly de- signated " the graveyard of India," it might embrace a disease peculiar to every month of the year. The situation of Pesh,awur, to begin with, is most unhealthy, as it lies low, and in the vicinity of swampy marsh-lands. The rains had " set in " some time, and it was a fortnight before the Munros and Chaplins were to leave for the Hills. They had taken a house at Murree together, and were going to spend two months in that pretty Hill Station. They had been looking forward to it all the long hot-weather days. No school-boy more eagerly longs for the coming of his holidays than they longed for the i$th of August that was to see them en route for Murree. They did not exactly mark off the days in an almanack, or make notches on a stick as the school- boy does to make the holidays seem nearer; fal- laciously, for time thus counted always appears longer in bringing full fruition of our hopes. One evening Mrs. Chaplin came home from her drive feeling very ill ; she had not been bright all PESHAWUR FEVER. 59 day, but had fought against the feeling, trusting the outer air would revive and restore her. She had said to herself, " I shall be all right after the drive ;" but feeling no better, and the languor increasing, she sent for the doctor, who, when he came, said she was sickening for a regular attack of Indian fever and ague. The next morning she was no better ; and by the evening the fever had flown to her head, making her delirious. Her poor husband was very anxious about her, and did his best to nurse her and to do all that the doctor prescribed. But men are sadly out of their element in the sick-room ; and, good husband as he was, he greatly felt his incapacity to tend her as he would wish and though he moved quietly about the room and had almost the gentle hand and quiet tone of a woman in his new ministry of love, yet his very anxiety destroyed his efficiency as a nurse. Yet if love and tenderness alone were required, he would have been the best of nurses. He could not bear to hear his dearly-loved wife tossing and moaning in all the wild delirium of fever. The next day Mrs. Munro took up her abode in the sick-room, having insisted on doing so. She saw at once how it was with the husband, and that if he were left to nurse his wife any longer he would himself fall ill from sheer nervousness and anxiety. She therefore remained in the house, and slept in the patient's room, as she could thus administer all * medicines herself at the regular hours, and attend 60 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. to all her wants. She would not hear of a European nurse being called in from the barracks, and would not allow that she could be ever tired. Good, kind creature ! She was a true nurse, and knew how to husband her strength, and to make the best of her time for repose and sleep. She did not fidget about the room unnecessarily, but just did all that was required for Edith's comfort, and then lay down beside her. She did not torment her with questions as to how she was ? whether she liked this or that ? For there is nothing more tormenting to one who is ill than to be plied with questions, and consulted although done by many in ignorant kindness as to what they will take, and other matters. The sick like to feel confidence in their nurse, and simply to be cared for by her, knowing all will be well ordered for their convenience and comfort ; and this is ever the case when a nurse not only knows her duty, but does it. What is the use in relieving your patient bodily, if you tax her mentally ? The nurse, too, seems by her instinct sharpened by experience to know how the patient is, better by her observation oftimes, than by the patient's reply to her inquiries ; for the invalid will often fancy herself better than she really is ; so true is it " the wish is father to the thought." Edith Chaplin had been ill for a week, and was now getting better gradually but surely ; so much so, that the doctor thought she would be able to travel in another week's time ; and added that if she were PESHAWUR FEVER. 61 able to bear the journey, the change of air would be the best medicine for her. Mrs. Munro dear good soul took all the trouble of the arrangements required for the journey upon herself; she would not let Mrs. Chaplin think about anything ; she only wanted her to get well and strong again. It requires some skill and management to arrange for a move to the Hills, even for a two months' visit, as you must eat all the time, and have something to eat out of as well. You must have your servants with you also. The consequence is, you have to de- spatch your heavy baggage quite ten days before you start yourself, so as to give it time to arrive. The heavy baggage is usually sent on a hackri (country cart on heavy wheels, minus springs !), which is drawn by two or four bullocks, according to its size and weight ; and these poor patient beasts plod on, albeit slowly, yet surely. You have to manage for these ten days with half your staff of servants, as a certain number must be there when you reach your destination to wait on you, and have all in readi- ness for your arrival; while those who served you in the plains, follow and join your household as quickly as possible. Travelling thus is easy and com- fortable too. Dak gharree (post carriage) travelling is very expensive ; so except the two taken on the top of the gharree usually the bearer and ayah the servants have to travel in a slower fashion, i.e. they either walk the journey or proceed by bullock-train. 62 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. The difference of procedure between the bullock-train and your baggage hackri, also drawn by bullocks, is that the bullock-train continues to move along by night as well as day, and has relays of bullocks to meet it at the different stages on the road ; whereas a hackri engaged for your own goods and chattels alone, for any stated journey, goes by " marches," with the same cattle the whole way. The government bullock-train answers to our luggage-train where there is no railway in India. It transports all boxes from one place to another; and natives can also travel by it in a van reserved for the purpose. I think one's servants prefer the slow march to going by the bullock-train, because when they have done their ten or more miles " march " they need do nothing more for the rest of the day but eat, sleep, and snioke, which just suits the native taste. The Indian indeed would not agree with Cowper " Absence of occupation is not rest, A mind quite vacant is a rniud distress'd." The ordinary natives of India are really more like animals : they never seem to have a thought on their minds, so these lines hardly apply to them. I mean, of course, the class of native belonging to the lower order of their kind ; although they all, from the highest to the lowest, have the same tendency to apathy and indolence. No doubt the climate causes PESHAWUR FEVER. 63 this ; yet there are many bright exceptions, and many intelligent natives. The races indigenous to Northern India are far more intelligent and clear-headed than those further south; and although naturally semi-barbarous for want of civilisation, yet they are more of the Euro- pean stamp. The country being so much colder, I suppose their brain has so much larger growth than that of those who are exposed to perpetual heat. Europeans themselves who have been many years in India must be more or less affected by the climate : and their intellects, as a rule, become less keen. Mrs. Munro had made all the arrangements for the move, having sent nearly all her own servants on ahead to the house at Murree ; and as the Munros and Chaplins dined together, one cook did for both families. I am sorry to say poor Mrs. Chaplin was not destined to leave on the appointed day. She again felt very weak, and told her husband she must go and lie down while they were at breakfast. He saw in a moment that she was ill, and sent for the doctor, who only shook his head, and said he "was afraid she was going to have another attack of fever, and if so, she must not go on the I5th." Captain Chaplin went over to the Munros to tell them the sad news, and to ask what was to be done. Mrs. Munro immediately said she would remain with Mrs. Chaplin, and her husband could go on if he 64 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. liked ; but neither of the gentlemen would hear of such a thing ; they were both determined Mrs. Munro should go on the settled day. The last nursing had tried her strength ; and though she would not allow it, her hus- band knew it, and could see she was flagging. Captain Chaplin said, " Surely a nurse could be found who could take care of his wife she so disliked the ayahs feeding her and tending her, and he felt himself to be but a poor nurse." Mrs. Munro promised to start off to the barracks that evening in search of a nurse, and did so as soon as the heat allowed her to go out. One comfort of the rainy season is that you can go out earlier than during the hot winds. The heat of the two seasons is different ; the latter scorches your face, while the former makes you feel as if in a Turkish bath. Mrs. Munro found hunting for a nurse no easy task. She first went to the hospital of her husband's own regiment, and asked the matron there if she knew of any. " Yes, ma'am," she replied ; " I know several who call themselves such, but they are not much good : reg'lar old Mother Gamps ! " " Oh ! save Edith from a Gamp !" mentally ejaculated Mrs. Munro. The matron then consulted her books, and came back with more hope in her face, saying, " I quite forgot two nurses whom I can recommend, ma'am, PESHAWUR FEVER. 65 Mrs. Tucker and Mrs. Foley. Mrs. Foley is a young woman, twenty-five years old, and attended Mrs. D with her first baby. Mrs. D told me she liked her immensely," she added. " Mrs. Tucker, poor thing, has lately become a widow, and might not feel equal to going out to nurse yet." Mrs. Munro drove off to the artillery lines, which were at the other end of the station, and inquired for Mrs. Foley, and found her after a length of time in the married quarters, or I should rather say heard of her there ; for she was " absent," Private Foley said, and " attending a confinement case in the Hills." Then Mrs. Munro inquired for Mrs. Tucker, whom she found only two doors off. Mrs. Tucker was " at home," and in answer to Mrs. Munro's kind questions full of sympathy, for she scarcely liked to ask her to come out to nurse so soon after her bereavement answered " Oh, ma'am, I'm that accustomed to sorrow, I hardly care what becomes of me now. I have buried my husband and five children in this place : they all died in one year : he died of consumption, poor fellow ! aggravated by the fever, and the children of fever and cholera. You know, ma'am, we had the cholera here last year, and the children dropped off like mulberries." Mrs. Tucker added, " she would like to go out and nurse the sick lady ; it would give her something to do and think about. Here in these dreadful barracks," F 66 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. she said, " she did nothing but cry over her lost ones ; what was the good of that ? I can't bring them back by it, ma'am ! " How unevenly misery seems to fall in this world ! Mrs. Tucker was installed that night, and a kind nurse she proved to be. Her powers and energies were not so much taxed as Mrs. Munro's had been ; for Edith's present attack was not nearly so severe as the last one, and she did not become in the least delirious. The only great cause of anxiety was her extreme prostration; the first illness had left her weak, and the second attack had come before she had had time to recover her strength ; then, also, it is almost impossible to regain strength in hot weather. The Munros had started, and Edith had had a letter from her friend telling her of their safe arrival. They accomplished the journey without any mishap, although Mrs. Munro had acknowledged being rather frightened crossing the river, which was so swollen. She had crossed it before by the bridge of boats, so this was her first experience of the ferry. Edith was not able to move for a fortnight ; but at the end of that time she was pronounced fit to travel, but only by easy stages. So they decided upon staying at Attock for a day, and so breaking the journey, and again at Rawul Pindee ; from which place she was to go in a dhoolie up the hill. They spent the day with a friend at Attock, a Colonel PESHAWUR FEVER. 67 B , whose wife was in the Hills ; but his house afforded far more comforts than the dak bungalow (or staging-house.) For these are miserable places to stay in, especially for a sick lady. The beds are usually hard and dirty, if not alive ! and nothing to eat but a skin-and-bone fowl, which is hunted in front of you, and perhaps caught under your nose by a half-naked man, knife in hand, a process that does not improve your appetite. Dak bungalows, like everything else, differ ; some are good, and some bad : and I suppose in a few years' time they will all die a natural death, as hotels have sprung up in every Indian station, not only one, but two or three ; and as they vie with each other for custom, their prices are kept down. The dak bungalow khansamah (butler) is the most aggravating man to talk to. When you wish to order dinner, and ask him what he has, he invariably answers, " Sub kuch hai " meaning, everything that you want I have. But when you question him fur- ther, the " sub kuch hai " invariably dwindles down to the skeleton fowl I have described. The Chaplins arrived in three or four days. Edith was very tired, and very thankful to find herself once more in a comfortable bed-room, with a nice wood fire and a door that opened and shut with an English handle. There was a blazing fire in the 1 drawing-room ; for it was evening when they arrived, and quite chilly F 2 68 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. and Mrs. Munro knew Edith would feel the change in her weak state. We must leave them in the Hills ; nearly all our friends are there now. Robert Hale went with the Munros, and he was going to spend two months with them and the Chaplins. A happy two months it was for him with his friends ; lucky young man ! He was so different with them to what he was with the rollicking companions, with whom he was the wildest of the wild ; no freak too mad for him to join in. They had a large house belonging to one of the Governor-General's staff, who had gone to Simla that year. The house was a little away from any others, and was surrounded by trees inhabited by monkeys. These monkeys were rather troublesome ; they were such thieves, and some of them were so tame that they did not scruple to walk into the larder, if the door were left open, and carry off anything they could lay hands upon. CHAPTER VI. CHRISTMAS DAY IN PESHAWUR AND IN THE DISTRICT. THE fifteenth of October had come and gone, and all the military men were back at Peshawur, except a few stray ones, who by hook or crook had managed to get a few days' extra leave. The drill season had commenced, and commanding officers and their adjutants were busy arranging the daily parades and other duties. The brigadier-general and his brigade major were also cogitating together over the brigade parades which were to take place, and the inspections they were obliged to go through. Each regiment has to be inspected once during the cold weather by the general officer commanding the division. The one who was commanding at Pesha- wur, General Wood, was a very gallant officer, and deservedly popular with all the troops. He was a comparatively young man, and had received very quick promotion, owing in the first instance to his gallantry ; he had' lost an arm in the service. 7o A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. Although General Wood had only one arm, he seemed to do more with it than many men can do with two. He was a good shot, a splendid rider, and even used to hunt. He was also a good croquet player, far better than most men. Every lady player who loved the game and played for the game's sake, liked " the general " for a partner, and thought herself lucky if she secured him for the game, either as her partner or her adversary in the one case he was sure to be a valuable ally, in the other he was a foe worth beating. But the ladies who only cared to flirt with their balls or their partners, were never to be seen in the general's set. In Peshawur, in the cold weather, there is plenty of occupation and amusement for everybody. As soon as winter sets in in India, the people break out into life, like butterflies emancipated from their chrysalis shells. The cold weather begins about the middle of October, although punkahs are not generally used after the middle of September. The ladies and children, however, do not return from the hills before October ; an earlier change from the hill climate would be too sudden, but by this time the weather has become quite cold and wintry. October and November are the most unhealthy months of the whole year ; at Peshawur very many are ill with fever at this time. This year, fever was very prevalent ; there was somebody ill in almost every house, and there had been great mortality A CHRISTMAS DAY IN PESHAWUR. 71 among the soldiers. By Christmas, I am glad to say, the fever had much diminished ; there were only a few patients left in hospital, and everybody was feeling brighter, and ready for any fun. When there is much fever in Peshawur it is terribly depressing. The place is never at any time normally healthy, and the chilly, damp feeling it always has, espe- cially after sunset, seems to pierce through to the bores, as it were, and pervades everything. There is usually a week's holiday at Christmas, and all the officers who are fond of sport generally try and get a few days' district leave for shooting ; but there is not much choice of shooting-ground round Peshawur, it being a station that sporting men would call slow. No deer to stalk ; and those beautiful black buck and ravine deer that afford so much amusement and sport down country are not to be seen near Peshawur. The black buck is excellent food, and makes very goad venison, not at all to be despised, though not of course equal to English venison bred in a park. No Indian game can be compared to English of the same kind, the country is too sterile to afford rich pasture land. Nothing grows in India to the same perfection as it does in England. The English fruits which grow there are of a very inferior quality and taste. The peaches from Cabul, and the grapes, are more like what are grown in England than any other fruit. But one must remember that the fruits there are almost, if not entirely, uncultivated, and 72 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. grown on common soil ; whereas at home they are tended as in a well-cared-for nursery. There was no pig-sticking either ; the sportsmen used to go out for a day's shooting, and bring in game such as hares, and birds of all sorts. They found plenty of different kinds of partridges, sand- grouse, rock pigeons, and the " oobhara," a kind of francolin, the " chaha " or snipe. There are plenty of quails too, which are to be found principally in the spring. The natives are fond of catching them with large nets, and the Europeans buy them, and shut them up in a dark place underground where they thrive and fatten, and are quite a reserve for a nice dish when from the want of variety in the provisions, the poor lady of the house finds it so difficult to order any meal that will tempt her guests to eat anything at all in the hot weather. There were many plans made for the Christmas week according to the different tastes of individuals. Three or four ladies went with their husbands to visit friends at Rawul- Pindee ; others had their friends to visit them ; and many were the Christ- mas day dinner-parties, and long the invitations for them. Every commanding officer asked all the ladies in the regiment to dinner, of course their husbands too, and as many bachelors as room could be made for. No one minded a squeeze or wanted elbow-room on Christmas day, and indeed they had to do without A CHRISTMAS DAY IN PESHAWUR. 73 the de rigueur arm-chairs, which take up so much room and are so uncomfortable. The general and his wife entertained the officers of the staff, and their wives ; and as many odd ones as their table would hold. By " odd ones," must be understood officers holding independent appoint- ments on the staff and attached to the regiment, such as the executive engineer, and others. Possibly a few stray " do nothing " colonels were invited out of sheer compassion. I must allow there were some in Peshawur, though I am bound to add sorrowfully that they were in the minority, who thought of Christmas, not only as a day of festivity and good dinners, but as one of the greatest and most joyous festivals that the Church throughout the world celebrates. I do not say that the inhabitants of Peshawur neglected to go to church on Christmas day far from it. The church was always fuller on Christmas day than on any other ; many go on Christmas day who never think of going on a Sunday during the year, perhaps from old association. Possibly it quiets their conscience to feel that they have worshipped, or joined in the worship, in the House of God once during the year, and thus at least do not seem to be quite outside the pale. But this is a matter of feeling and conscience, with which at least my story has nothing to do. It was at least a day of hearty and general good-will. The church at Peshawur is a fine building ; a real 74 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. church, no makeshift place of worship ; its tower can be seen for many miles, and looks like a picturesque beacon in the distance with its background of mountains. The building itself was not only good, but there was a good clergyman, who earnestly tried to do his duty and teach the congregation aright, and to bring them to see the value of Church privileges ; no easy matter with a congregation composed of all denominations. He had daily service all the year round. In the winter, the hours for Sunday services were the same as in England ; but in the hot weather they have to be in the early morning, and in the height of summer, six o'clock was the hour. The troops march to church, and so must be in barracks again before the sun becomes dangerously hot. Very gay a Sunday morning in India is, with all the mili- tary bands playing and marching in front of their respective regiments, to and from the church ; whilst during the service there is always a guard outside ; a custom invariably observed ever since the mutiny. The church at Peshawur was decorated, and. it looked very gay too, this Christmas morning, with all the officers and men in full dress. The European infantry in their scarlet and gold lace, then the artillery contrasting with their dark blue ^and gold lace, and the officers of the native regiments in various colours, some " kharkee" (drab), and others red. Last but certainly not least for I think it was the A CHRISTMAS DAY IN PESHAWUR. 75 handsomest uniform of all came the Bengal cavalry, dark green and red facings, and such a quantity of gold lace on sleeves and coat, with gold pouch-belts too ; and very uncomfortable they looked in their finery, and I will give them their due and admit that most of them hated their full dress, and all its irksome adjuncts. Some of the officers looked as we should expect them to do had they chain armour on. Some few, too, gave one the idea that they had grown a little stouter since last Christmas, and would be very glad to be out of theirs. I am afraid this told a tale of its own ; for full dress is obligatory when the troops go to church on Sunday mornings, and those of our friends whose coats were too tight for them could not have been to church on a Sunday morning very often if they had, they must have suffered much. The fact of being obliged to wear it keeps many officers of native regiments away from church ; they would go could they do so in their comfortable braided coats, which always look well too. Officers of European regiments invariably go .to church with their men; they have no choice but to attend what is called " church parade." Charles Gordon, Robert Hale, and two native infantry officers, Lieuts. Fuller and Peters, applied for a week's leave to go to the frontier forts together, Abazaie was the one they chose as they thought they would be able by going there to get some sport, without much risk of being shot, as at every fort 76 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. there is a small garrison. Each native regiment at Peshawur supplies a certain number of men to garrison the frontier forts, who are relieved every month in the cold weather, and every two months in the summer. An officer has always to accompany the men "on command." Our four friends were all great lovers of sport, and had been looking forward to this week's leave for a long time ; they were determined to make the most of it, and not be frightened by anything they had heard. Several old croakers at Peshawur shook their heads, and said the general was very rash to let them go out together, as they would surely be up to some mad freak, and bring the authorities into trouble. They were certainly the four wildest men in Peshawur, though none the worse for it, for their fun was all honest and above board. Off they went on Christmas eve, with two bell-tents between them. There was an empty room in the fort which they could use for their meals. Before I proceed to relate these adventures, the result of their mapcap spirits, I must say something about the situation and purposes of the Frontier forts. There are three about twelve miles from Peshawur, separated from each other by a few miles. Shubkuddur is in the centre, Michenee about seven miles off on one hand, and Abazaie on the other, distant from Shub- kuddur about four or five miles, with the river running between the two forts, close by Abazaie. These forts A CHRISTMAS DAY IN PESHAWUR. 77 are supposed to protect the frontier, and are really outposts belonging to Peshawur itself. They each have a commanding officer, who lives in them all the year round. Colonel Sealy at Abazaie, Colonel Carter at Shubkuddur, and Colonel McMullin at Michenee. Those poor wretched colonels were to be pitied ; no places could be more dreary and dull than these frontier forts. "A dull man is so near a dead man that he is hardly to be ranked in the list of the living " this was their case, they were indeed buried alive. The country where these forts are situated is most deserted, looking nothing but a dreary waste of sand and uncultivated land covered with stubbly looking bushes with no pasture of any sort. This is the character of the whole country between the forts and Peshawur. The officers who command the forts were all unattached, and it may be supposed that it was only the extra pay which induced them to take the appointment. Few could care for such a life as they must have led there. The colonel at Abazaie had been there for years ; he was a married man with wife and children, who had lived with him there a long time, but were now at home for the education of the young people. The resident at the Abazaie Fort was the best off, for with the river so near, boating was easy, and he had besides cultivated some land and amused himself with superintending the farming of it. 78 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. Shubkuddur is a round fort, with a kind of court- yard in the centre, and the officers' quarters one side of it, raised some distance above the level ground. These quarters are very circumscribed, consisting of only one room for each person. There were four rooms altogether, but all built separately, just like separate bungalows ; that is, bungalows consisting of only one room, verandah, and bath-room : rather close quarters for a married couple. A lady would occasionally accompany her husband on his tour of duty at the "outpost forts." Then all they could do was to hide away the beds in the verandah in the daytime, and turn the room into a sitting-room by day, and a bed-room by night. Such were the makeshifts English ladies put up with during a few days' visit to the frontier forts. How this sort of thing would astonish a fine English lady who had possibly never been out of England ! However, I do not wish any one to run away with the idea that it is the custom in India for visitors to walk into your bed-room ; I am only describing what ladies have to do if they visit these outlandish places, and the frontier forts may be termed outlandish in every sense of the word. At Shubkuddur there was a young lady and no one will doubt she was to be pitied, for she must have had a terribly dull time of it living there with her father all the year round. Colonel Carter was a widower, Flora was his only daughter, the comfort A CHRISTMAS DAY IN PESHAWUR. 79 and sunshine of his life. There was plenty of out- side sunshine at Shubkuddur, but the internal life there truly needed a sunny and bright companion. Flora used to ride every morning with her father, and would pay an occasional visit to friends in Peshawur ; this was all she had to enliven her. The four friends decided to go to Abazaie, as the proximity of the river promised well for the chance of more variety of sport. This was their first shooting expedition in the neighbourhood. They determined to lose no time, and made their plans for every day. The morning after their arrival they all started off with their guns, their flasks and some dry biscuits in their pockets, and intended invading the enemy's territory. It was against all orders, and they knew they did it at their own peril. They were not in ignorance of the risk they ran by going beyond the prescribed limits of safety ; but they were so deter- mined to amuse themselves to the utmost that they did not care what they did. They had gone about twelve miles, walking very steadily and quietly, all of them some distance apart* as experienced shikarees do; but their patience was sorely tried, for they had literally seen nothing in the way of game, and they had hardly seen any- thing living either in the shape of human or animal life. Except when they passed a village, where a few men came out and stared at them, they saw nothing 80 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. alive ; and these men were next to inanimate, for they only stared with their mouths open as if they wished to encompass the strangers well with both eyes and mouth. But if no word escaped them, this silence was made up by the numbers of squalling children. Why are Indian children always screaming ? scream- and crying, I should say, more than any other children in the world. The babies certainly do; it may be perhaps because " Stedman's teething powders" are not yet known in these benighted regions. A few women could also be seen outside the villages, who tried to imitate their lords and masters and stare at the " sahibs," though half afraid to do so openly. They could only take a sly glance through a hole in their " chuddahs" (sheets), whilst pretending to cover their faces and hide their beauty from the gaze of man. Hale was getting rather tired of the dull walk, and suggested to Gordon that they should return and try their luck elsewhere. It would have been well for them had they done so. Gordon would not hear of it. He said, " Surely you do not want to go back yet after only a twelve-mile walk, and we have the whole day before us. We had better try and push on to that small hill in front of us with a village at its foot ; it looks only about three miles off. " " Yes," said Fuller, " we ought to find something there, as it has an appearance of growth and A CHRISTMAS DAY IN PESHAWUR. 81 vegetation, and so there will be a possibility of finding something alive." " The country we have traversed so far," returned Hale, " could not afford food or shelter for beast or bird perhaps we shall be able to get some milk in the village." Poor Hale ! there was nothing for him to do but submit to Charles Gordon's decree ; for Gordon was the leader, and, unfortunately for the bodily comfort of the others, never seemed to get tired. Robert Hale and the others agreed that they would never venture to start again for a long day's shooting without taking their " tattoos " (ponies) with them ; twelve miles across that rough, stony, rugged country was equal to many more on flat, ground. The sun was pretty strong by the time they reached the village of " Pumree." When they were within a few yards of it, they saw a string of natives coming towards them in true native style, " Indian file." It is a rare thing to see two natives walk- ing side by side. The front man, a fine-looking fellow, with a long black beard, appeared to be of some importance, for he was riding a horse, whilst all the others were on ponies or on foot, and his dress also betokened a higher rank than the rest. They all carried arms of some sort, but of various kinds ; even a club-stick and hatchet were not despised by those who had nothing better. There were some young G 82 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. boys of ten or twelve years old amongst them, and even these carried sticks. They all wore the winter dress of the country sheepskin coats over their loose cotton jackets, and loose flowing garments. Almost all the commonest and poorest people in that part of the country, wear these sheepskin coats ; the skins are dyed a kind of yellowish brown, and the woolly part is worn inside. The leader of this string of people had on a real astrachan, which is an expensive skin even in that part, for though so near the country it comes from, there is a heavy duty on it. When Charles Gordon and his companions descried this large concourse of natives advancing towards them, they began to wonder what it could mean, and supposed they were making an expedition to another village. Still they did not quite like the appearance of so many armed men they could see their arms glittering in the sunlight. They closed up and walked together, shouldering their guns, and sin- cerely wished they were on horseback, instead of on foot ; for if they were attacked they would be very helpless against such a number. There were quite fifty, including the boys, but looked more, for they rode and walked in a straggling way one behind the other. As they approached each other, the leader, who looked like a Jewish rabbi, with his flowing beard and A CHRISTMAS DAY IN PESHAWUR. 83 white turban stopped, and the others did likewise. Charles Gordon stepped forward, making a sign of friendship, and speaking his best Hindustanee, which, however, the leader either did not understand, or feigned ignorance of. Neither Charles Gordon nor his friends were at first sight impressed favourably with the man's looks. He looked at the young men too as if he did not approve of them or perhaps it was their guns he did not like he certainly eyed them well, and he seemed to them to be trying to make up his mind as if in doubt what to do next. After looking at them searchingly from top to toe for the space of two minutes, which seemed to them four times as long, he called up another man with whom he conversed in the Pushto dialect, but not a word of their conversation could either of the Eng- lishmen understand, except " sahib," and that was sufficient to let them know they themselves were the subject of it. At last they stopped, and then the second man stepped forward and addressed them in a kind of Hin- dustanee not the Hindustanee talked in the lower parts of India, but more of the mixture of Pushto and Hindustanee that is talked in the north of the Punjab, and round about Peshawur. He asked them what they were doing. Gordon did not understand his pronunciation, but Fuller did, as he had been learning the language a little while with a " moonshee," and G 2 84 A YEAR IN ' PESHAWUR. knew more of it than his companions. Fuller there- fore, at Gordon's request, became their spokesman. The man who was talking to them spoke quite as if he was an equal, not in the usual deferential indeed cringing way natives usually talk to the " sahiblogue " (gentlemen). However, that is probably because we English are the conquerors and their rulers in India ; whereas the man who was now talking to the Englishmen was in his own country, and they the Englishmen were trespassers in it ; this no doubt made the difference. The mutiny was a telling instance of how the natives could in one day turn from humble, respectful servants to become insolent, cruel, tyrannical rulers. Ahmed Alii, the man who was talking to Mr. Fuller, was the son of the chief or leader. He asked one ques- tion after another, "What they were doing ?" " Where they were going ? " " Why they had those guns ? " He even asked what kind of guns they were : and took them in his hands and inspected them. To all of these questions Mr. Fuller answered shortly and politely, giving him to understand that they were peaceably inclined, and were no spies. But natives are very suspicious ; and they seemed now to doubt the young men's statement that they had only come out on a shooting expedition, for the man immediately said, " Where is your game ? " Mr. Fuller could only answer that they had seen none. It is not surprising, perhaps, that under these A CHRISTMAS DAY IN PESHAWUR. 85 circumstances the sportsmen were looked upon with some sort of suspicion, for they were perfectly alone. Few Englishmen go out shooting to such a distance without a " shikaree " to guide them ; for without one to show them the country they could hardly expect much success. When Ahmed Alii had finished questioning Mr. Fuller he turned round to his father and began talking to him in his native dialect ; which is a most harsh one, and wants the soft, easy, gliding sound of Hindustanee. All this took a long time, and Gordon was beginning to fume, and said to Fuller, " I cannot stand these beggarly rascals talking to us in this fashion ; let us go on." Fuller advised him to be still, as he saw they were already looked upon with suspicion, and would probably be surrounded and shot, if they did try to make a move. They could not but feel that they were in an uncommonly ticklish position ; knowing, too, as they did, how little these people think of taking life, and what thorough born and bred murderers they are. Charles Gordon, however, looked upon Fuller as too timid, and without really making up his mind to move, he made a step forward as if to appear to go on to try the effect as it were. The man, Moha- med Alii, at once walked up and said something which they did not understand until his son stepped forward and interpreted it. It was this : " My father, who is the chief of our tribe, the 86 A YEAR IN PESHAWUR. ' Swatees ' does not wish either of you ' English sahibs ' to move on until we have had a conference as to what is to be done about you. Neither he nor ourselves believe for one moment that you have simply come here to shoot birds, as there are none to speak of none, that is, worth the trouble of shooting round about here ; and you only try to make us believe it to hide your real purpose." Fuller tried here to interrupt him, but he would not be stopped, and went on to say " We are not fools ; we know that you English people are hostile to us, and that you are forbidden to come into our country ; therefore why do you break your own laws, and come so far into it too ? You as subjects would not dare to do it, and by it defy your government. You must have been sent here for some purpose. We wish you to return with us to the village, and we will there hold a conference about it. You are our prisoners." This was a pleasant finish to a morning's shooting, and our friends, one and all, wished now they had not defied the rules. But they were none of them chicken-hearted men, and were not to be overawed, even in appearance, by double the number of those now present. They saw they had not to deal with puny Hindoos. Indeed the tribes on the borders of Afghanistan realise one's conception of what border tribes should be, stalwart men, equal in size and physique to the ordinary Englishman, whilst their features, which are of a Jewish type, are not in A CHRISTMAS DAY IN PESHAWUR. 87 the least like the Hindoos or Mohammedans of Hindoostan. Charles Gordon was for making an instant resist- ance ; but the others, who were no cowards, but less impetuous, begged him not to; and as they were completely outnumbered he had the sense to suc- cumb. Probably for this good advice he stood indebted to them for much, if not for his life. CHAPTER VII. STILL IN THE DISTRICT. REPARATION AND SUCCESS. THE village into which Gordon, Hale, Fuller, and Peters were taken, was not unlike other Indian villages in those parts, except that it had a more well- to-do air about it. To begin with, it was much larger, and was more like a little town surrounded by a wall. The entrance was under a large high arch- way, under which was a door, and leading from it a comparatively broad road, with small native huts on each side. There was an attempt at grandeur, and one could not but notice it, small as it was. In all Indian cities, palaces and hovels are jumbled up together in a confused mass, as if they, that is, the dirty huts and hovels, had dropped there by accident. " The city of palaces " is no exception to this rule, although one might imagine that in it things would be differently arranged, but the contrast there strikes one more than elsewhere. STILL IN THE DISTRICT. 89 Our friends entered this little town, or large vil- lage, feeling very much like prisoners ; for although their guns had not been taken from them, and they were not of course handcuffed, still they were pri- soners to all intents and purposes. Indeed they would have found it difficult to escape, surrounded as they were by armed men; and after they had passed through the gate they could not, it is to be supposed, have felt very much at their ease. I doubt whether the heart of the " lion-hearted " himself would not have quailed a little had he been in their shoes, that is if he had known as well as they did, the character of the people in whose complete power they had fallen. Their position was hardly more en- viable, and their lives hardly more safe, than that of a political enemy in the streets of Rome in former days. They well might sincerely wish that they were out of the predicament. When the procession arrived at the gate of this little town it halted, and went through a ceremony before the chief himself attempted to enter. Ther was delay, too, possibly owing to his unexpected appearance. He had left with all his followers on an expedition to a neighbouring village, and had not intended returning until the next morning. According to custom he delegated the command in his absence to his next of kin. It happened to be his brother " Dost Alii " in this instance, his son Ahmed Alii 9