Ai A[ Oi 01 0! 1 \ = 1 \ 81 21 51 ./ / ./' /■ UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES "^^ ^^-^ d.^^^^^^* /C-^/^ i n 'V PARIS, IK 1802 and 1814. Stralian and Pmtnn, Print«r$-S(reci, l»fKlon PARIS, EIGHTEEN HUNDRED AND TWO, EIGHTEEN HUNDRED AND FOURTEEN. BY THE Rev. WILLIAM SHEPHERD, THE SECOND EDITION. LONDON: PAINTED rOR LONGMAN, HURSX, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, fAIERNOSTER-RO\V. 1814. m DC 73/ 5:^4 -f TO WILLIAM ROSCOE, Esq. MY DEAR SIR, ^ Without the ceremony of 0) a previous solicitation for peiTtiis- o sion, I inscribe the following pages to you. To this I am impelled, by the consideration that the journeys which they record, were principally occasioned by a love of Literature and the Arts, which at an early pe- riod of my life I imbibed under your friendly instructions ; and that they were made during; those intervals of Peace, the obtaining of which was ever the object of your political exertions. You have been already apprised, by pergonal communication, that I ''7 C"'i.."P-''"7-0 VI was much pleased by my visits to the French melropohs. Beheve me, how- ever, when I declare that my obser- vation of the condition of a foreign land, only tends to confirm, in my mind, that reverence for the Institu- tions of my native country in which I was educated ; and which has been strongly confirmed, both by ^-our precepts, as inculcated in the confi- dential intercourse of friendship, and by your example, as exhibited in the whole tenor of your public life. That national tranquillity and do- mestic happiness may long continue to gratify your truly honourable and benevolent feelings, is die ardent wish, of Your obliged Friend, WILLIAM SHEPHERD. dat&acre, Aug. t^d. 1614. PREFACE. IN submitting this little work to general perusal, I am anxious that it should, be judged merely by the criterion of its pretensions. It purports only to show how an individual, limited in point of time and property, may pleasantly and profitably spend a few weeks in Paris. A plain tale will account for its publica- tion. As a means of enforcing accuracy of observation, it has long been my habit to note down in writing the most inte- resting objects and circumstances, that from time to time have occurred in the course of the journeys which I have undertaken either on business or in the pursuit of pleasure. The memorandums which I had made during my trip to Vlll Paris in 1802, I reduced into the form of a manuscript journal, which was, I may say, for some years, in almost constant re- quisition among my friends. When I lately returned from the French metro- polis, applications for a sight of my diary became so numerous, that I foresaw much trouble in superintending its circulation. In this embarrassment I recollected to have heard of an honest quaker, who re- sided in the back settlements of America, and who, finding himself absolutely eaten up by transient passengers, set up the sign of the Dun Cow, after which, though he did not make any profit, he enjoyed the comforts of a quiet house. Upon this hint I have committed both my Journals to the press. If any thing more than what accrued to the American accrues to me, " lucro apponam." PARIS, IN 1802 and 1814. PART I. THE astonishing events, of which Paris had been the theatre in the course of the Revolution, having excited the atten- tion, not only of the thinking classes of the British community, but even of the igno- rant and the indifferent, it was naturally to be expected that, on the return of peace, multitudes of the English would be impelled, by motives of curiosity, to visit that famous capital. To those who were warmed by a love of literature and of the liberal arts, the numerous and well-filled libraries which were then opened to men of letters, and especially the splendid as- semblage of the finest specimens of sculp- ture and painting, the spoils of vanquished Italy, which adorned the gallery of the Louvre, presented a resistless temptation to cross the channel. Sharing in the ge- neral eagerness, I determined to spend the greater part of the summer holidays of 1 802, in the French metropolis. This determination was no sooner announced to my friends, than I found that I should by no means be at a loss for w^ant of tra- velling companions. In a very short time a party of six was formed for the ex- pedition ; and I was under the necessity of informing new applicants, that our ar- rangements were so far settled, that our company could not conveniently admit of any increase. By the accidents, how- ever, which commonly intervene to prevent the execution of preconcerted schemes, my companions were, at length, reduced, to three in number, namely, Mrs. S., Miss R., and Mr. B. R. Afiter a full discussion of the most con- venient mode of travelling, we were una- nimously of opinion, that, in so long a journey as that which we were under- taking, it would be matter of the utmost 3 importance to avoid tlie delay and risk incident to the removal of luggage from one vehicle to another : with this view we hired a stout and roomy carriage, at the rate of five shillings per day. The comfort which we purchased by this bar- gain was, I am persuaded, the cheapest commodity which we met with in the whole course of our expedition. As the aforesaid carriage could not conveniently contain four persons, Mr. R. and myself undertook alternately to ride post-horses. This arrangement tended of course to expedite our progress ; as the equestrian, acting as avant-coiiriery got the horses ready at every stage, so that we proceeded with the least possible delay. On Tuesday morning the 1 5th of June, immediately after breakfast, we took our departure from Gateacre. The circum- stance of bur being attended by Mr. R.'s father and his brothers, who accompa- nied us for the space of a mile before they took their leave, and the friendly atten- tions of several of our neighbours, who were waiting in the road to bid us fare- well, gave our journey somewhat of a B 2 serious aspect. No doubt the idea of visiting a foreign land includes more of danger and difficulty than that of an equal extent of peregrination in our native country. But, in point of fact, a trip to Paris is attended with less incon- venience, and, perhaps, less peril also, than many people now living have for- merly experienced in travelling from Lancashire to London. Even if balloons and sub-aqueous boats are put out of the question, we greatly excel our ancestors in the arts of safe and expeditious loco- motion. At noon we arrived at Bostock-hall, where we took up our quarters for the • night. On Wednesday morning, June i6th, we left Bostock, about seven o* clock. In our way to Newcastle we called at L. W., where we spent an hour with Mr. C. and his family. Then continuing our journey, we proceeded, without any remarkable incident, as far as Colesh ill, where we slept. Leaving Coleshill at about six o*clock in the morning of Thursday the 1 7th of June, we stopped to breakfast at Coventry, As I was following the waiter up the stairs of theKing's Head I was hailed by a voice, which, though it seemed familiar to my ear, I did not immediately recol- lect. On turning round I was agreeably surprized to see my friend Mr.F., who was then on his return from Paris, ac- companied .by Mr. T. C. Our parties were instantly united at the breakfast- table, and we spent a very interesting half hour in receiving from these gentle- men an account of divers of their adven- tures. They were also so kind as to com- municate to us some useful instructions with regard to the mode of travelling in France, and the style of living in Paris. Having made the most of the time which we could conveniently spend with these unlooked-for friends, we hastened away from Coventry, and about ten o'clock in the evening we entered St. Alban's. The principal inn of this town being full of guests, we were obliged to lodge in a mean tavern, where we met with very in- different accommodations. By the smell and general appearance of the room into which we were introduced, I suspect that B 3 our arrival dislodged a club of smokers and punch-drinkers. Our beds were far from being of the first quality ; and upon the whole I regarded this night's enter- tainment as an excellent preparative for the inconveniences which we expected to experience on the continent. We put ourseh es in motion at so early an hour, on Friday June 18, that by eleven o'clock a. m. we arrived in Lon- don, where we procured good apartments at Osborn's hotel in the Adelphi. My first care, after we were settled in our lodgings, was to procure the necessary passports. With this view Mr. R. and myself waited on Mons. Carenac, secre- tary to Citizen Otto, the minister of the French Republic. That gentleman re- ceived us with the utmost civility, and after filling the blanks of two passports with the description of our persons, &c. he desired us to call again the next day, wJien they would be signed and ready for delivery. From his house we went to Lord Hawkcsbury's office in Downing Street. Here we met with a reception very different iiom that which we bad experienced from the agents of the Great Nation. On my requesting one of the people in waiting in the antichamber to inform me to whom I must make appli- cation for a passport to enable me to go to France, the jack-in-office (who by the by was no higher in degree than a porter) measured me with his eye from top to toe, and then said, " Where is your letter of recommendation ?'* " Letter of recom- mendation !'* said I, a good deal surprised, " I did not know that any such document was necessary." — " Sir, you can have no passport without one." — <' And pray. Sir, whose recommendation must 1 procure?'* — " You must bring a letter from some banker, — or" (laying mighty stress upon the penultimate word) '* from some rich man." — " Can I speak to Lord Hawkes- bury's secretary ?" " No, Sir, he is not in the office." Finding that I could not penetrate beyond the threshold of the Treasury, without stronger interest than my business and my address, I made, an ungracious retreat ; inwardly, and I believe audibly, maledicting the new pi'i- vilege which the wealthy seemed to have B 4 lately acquired, the privilege of judging who were to be permitted to take a jour- ney to Paris. I determined, however, to return to the charge the next day, armed with a letter from Joseph Denison, Esq., who I trusted was rich enough in all con- science to be possessed of the requisite dis- cernment ; and who I was persuaded would in consideration of a certain sum of mo- ney, which our party had lodged in his hands, deem us amply qualified to visit the head-quarters of sedition without danger of contamination. Calling, however, at Messrs. Cadell and Davies's in my way to the city, I found there a letter of recom- mendation to Mr. Merry, which had been procured for me by the kindness of Mr. M. Emboldened by this instance of that gentleman's politeness, I wrote to him stating our difficulty, and requesting that he would have the goodness to extend his kindness so far, as to use his interest to procure us a passport. With this request he readily comphed, and favoured me with a letter, informing me at what time I must be at Downing Street the next day, and naming a gentleman in the office, who at his instance would ex- pedite my business. In pursuance of Mr. M.'s directions, I presented myself at the Treasury at three o'clock on Saturday afternoon. On mentioning the name of the gentleman to whom I had been recommended by Mr. M., I was without hesitation ushered into his apartment by the same attendant who had treated me so cavalierly the day before. After a short conversation, the clerk was proceeding to make out our passport, when we were interrupted by the appearance of a noble Lord, who came personally to apply for a similar document on behalf of one of his friends, who had, like myself, been ordered to produce a voucher for his good behaviour. From a conversation which took place between this peer and the secretary, I found that His Majesty's ministers were determined to be very scrupulous in granting permission to British subjects to go to France. The secretary observed that this was absolutely necessary, as of late many equivocal characters had flocked from England to Paris, where 10 they had conducted themselves very im- properly. Whether the transgressions of these offenders were of a moral or poli- tical nature, or whether they were simply sins against good manners, I could not gather from the context of the secretary's discourse. But when I considered that the recommendation of a banker, or of a rich man, was of itself a sufficient testi- monial of character, I could not help thinking that the discrimination of minis- ters could not be very nice ; and when, on receiving my passport, I was cliarged 2I. 4s. 6d. as a fee of office, I concluded that the gens de bureau would not be very industrious in putting obstacles in the way of those who wished to procure these costly licences. In order that we might, from the fresh- ness of memory, be enabled to make a comparison between the magnificence of the public vspectacles of London and of Paris, we went in the evening to the Italian Opera. The singing was of course good, and the ballet very striking ; but the indifference of the audience, and their total inattention to the opera, gave a flat- 11 ness to the exhibition, which I am per- suaded no rehsh for exquisite music could conquer. When it is evident that a large assemblage of pfeople do not enjoy the cause of their meeting together, the general languor spreads its infection to the performer and the amateur. The rude- ness of the fashionable mob, which after the close of the performance crowded the avenues of the house, would have disgraced Sadler's Wells or the Royalty Theatre. On Sunday morning, June 20, at seven o'clock, we left Osborn's hotel, and pass- ing over Blackheath, proceeded by Dart- ford, Sittingbourne, Rochester, and Can- terbury, to Dover. The country through which our route lay was very hilly, but it presented us with many beautiful pros- pects, particularly w^th occasional glimpses of the Thames, and frequent views of the Medway, both crowded wath shipping; the views about Chatham were singularly striking, being composed of the fortress, the men of war lying in the mid-stream of the Medway, and the town extending along the banks of that river. In the neighbour- hood of Canterbury the country presents 12 a pleasant intermixture of hop grounds, corn fields, rich meadows and pastures. Beyond Canterbury we passed over a very extensive tract of common land called Barham Downs. These downs are ele- vated, and command an extensive view to the right : at the approach of evening the road began to extend through a nar- row winding valley, at the extremity of which we discerned, through the gradu- ally increasing gloom, the keep of Dover castle, magnificently towering over the subjacent town. We arrived at the Ship Inn about eight o'clock, and were immediately waited upon by Mr. Sharp, captain of the Venus packet boat, with whom we engaged our passage at the price of one guinea for each person, and two guineas for the carriage. The whole of the morning of Monday, June 2 1 , was employed in getting our bag- gage passed at the Custom House, and in superintending its embarkation, and that of our vehicle. Having parted with almost all our cash, we had no circulating medium left, but Bank of England notes. I expected, according to the information 13 contained in Phillip's ** Guide to Paris," that the Dover bankers would, upon re- ceiving a proper premium, give us French money in exchange for our paper. 1 was therefore not a little surprised, when, on my applying for that purpose at the house of Messrs. Minet and Fector, I was in- formed that no such thing as French coin was to be had in Dover : and I waS a good deal startled when, on my requesting them to let me have cash for a twenty pound Bank note, they observed that they de- clined such transactions through fear of •forgeries, but that I could pass the note in question at Calais. It immediately occurred to my mind, if these people who are in the daily habit of examining Bank of England paper, dare not receive it from a stranger, d fortiori will the innkeepers of Calais be apprehensive of fraud; and we may possibly be detained till we can pro« cure letters of credit on that town. These reflections did not by any meana tend to increase my veneration for those paper pillars of British credit, the works of Abraham Newland ; which, in my pre- sent mood, appeared to me in no othep 14 light but as the sources of embarrassment," and guides to the gallows. In the midst of my meditations on this subject, 1 received notice that the packet was ready to sail ; and our party immediately went on board. Captain Shai-p had a very full complement of passengers, who, while the vessel was working out of the dock, were very talkative and noisy. But no sooner did we get clear of the quay than the motion of the vessel at once stilled the uproar. Some of the most merry and .clamorous, now looked wonderfully seri- ous, and became as mute as the tenants of the element upon which we were journeying. In the course of a few mi- nutes all the wash-hand basons on board were put in requisition, and circulated from patient to patient, with astonishing rapidity. Mrs. S. and Mt. R. were among the most violently indisposed, and were soon obliged to quit the deck and retire to bed. Miss R. and myself bore the voyage very stoutly. When we were advanced almost half way across the channel, I waa pensively meditating on the state of our iiuances, which I suppose clouded my 15 • countenance with more than usual gira* vity. This circumstance attracted the no- tice of a French gentleman, who observed to me, that he was afraid by my looks that I was beginning to be indisposed. I assured him that he was mistaken. This, commencement led to a long conversation, in the course of which I was induced by the politeness of his behaviour freely to communicate to him the subject of my anxiety, the signs of which he had mis- taken for symptoms of illness. My new acquaintance soon set my mind at ease, by assuring me that he did not think we should experience any difficulty in nego- ciating our paper money at Calais ; but, if that should happen to be the case, he would with pleasure accommodate me with money sufficient to carry us to Paris. I must confess that this instance of friend- liness to an utter stranger excited my astonishment as well as my gratitude. It was not till I had received from this good Samaritan the above-mentioned generous offer that I was even acquainted with his iiame ; which, on my expressing to him a wish to know to whom I was so signally 16 <>bligecl, he informed me was Du B. ; and it was with mutual pleasure that we found, in the course of our ensuing conversation, that he was in habits of intimate correspondence with some of my friends. After a most favourable passage, we arrived at Calais precisely at half past four o* clock. On our entrance into the harbour, the packet boat was instantly crowded with the runners of the differ- ent inns, each importunately inviting the passengers to their respective houses. M. du B. with considerate kindness had advised us to fix ourselves in the samd hotel with himself, in order, that if we should meet with any embarrassments he might be at hand to assist us. We ac- cordingly most thankfully consigned our luggage to the care of the servants of Mons. Meurice, at whose house M. du B. intended to fix his quarters. ^Vhen we had landed, we were conducted by one of our host's waiters to a small room on the outside of the walls of the town, where our passports were examined by a municipal officer, dressed in an uni- 17 fbriTd of blue, turned up with red, witli a large cocked hat decorated with the tri-coloured cockade. Thence we were conducted to a kind of guard-house, close to the gates ; where such part of our bag- gage as was necessary for our immediate accommodation was inspected by the custom-house officers. This service was performed very minutely, but without any insolence or impertinence. We were now permitted to enter the town, and immediately repaired to our hotel, where we ordered tea. As we were reposing our- selves in the parlour which was assigned us, we were all on a sudden besieged by a number of porters, each of whom most clamorously asserted that he had carried a part of our baggage. Of these we had no sooner got rid by giving them some loose silver, than another shoal broke into the room, the nature of whose de- mand we could not comprehend. At length one imposing silence on the rest (for they were all speaking together) un- dertook to explain their business in Eng- lish, and repeated two or three times, with great emphasis and violent action. 18 lights light. To this I replied in French, that we had been favoured with no light, but that of the sun, for which I did not conceive myself under any obligation to pay them any fees. Here we had a renewal of clamour, with still more vio- lent gesticulation. At length I dis-'- covered, that light was intended to sig- nify ladder ; and that our visitors were the proprietors of that convenience by the aid of which we had ascended from the packet-boat to the quay. We were again obliged to put our hands into our pocket? J but in order to prevent the in- trusion of any more of these banditti, I put our party under the protection of the master of the house, and for farther se- curity locked the door. After this tumult had subsided, the chief waiter came to inform me, that be- fore our carriage could pass the custom- house, we must give bond that we would not dispose of it in France ; and that as a security for the performance of our covenant, we should be obliged to de- posit at the custom-house, about one half of its real value. This was a most 19 unpleasant annunciation, as the payment of one half the value of the carriage would have entirely exhausted the sum which I had reserved for our travelling expences to Paris. In this exigency we were reduced to the necessity of tres- passing upon the goodness of M. du B., who no sooner understood how we were circumstanced, than by the medium of a Mons. Quillet, one of his corres- pondents in Calais, he lodged in the custom-house the necessary pledge, and about six o'clock we had the satisfaction of seeing our vehicle arrive in the court- yard of the hotel. In the evening we w^alked in the town, which is clean and neat, but does not contain any remarkable public edifices. The most conspicuous of these structures is the Hotel de Ville, situated in the great square. In this square -we saw the tree of liberty, a young plant which seemed sickly and drooping ; too faithful an em- blem, I am afraid, of its prototype. Ii>. the course of our walk we did not see many very striking objects j but the novelty of the scene kept our attention c 2 20 on the alert. The system of building large houses in a quadrangular form, with the windows of the best apart- ments arranged round a court, gives an air of dulness to the French towns, which forms a striking contrast with the sprightly aspect of those of England. Our ladies were surprized to see the women walking about without bonnets ; and the men with their ears adorned with large ear-rings presented a no less strange spectacle to Mr. R. and myself. The shops appeared to be well supplied with goods, but did not present so brilliant a spectacle as those of London, From the ramparts we looked towards the English coast, and then returned to our hotel, where we soon sat down to a good supper. The transactions of the packet boat had however so quelled our appetites, that we did not do much honour to the French cookery, by the copiousness of our meal. Our absti- nence indeed greatly astonished the waiter, a lad of a very ingenuous coun^ tenance, who gave us a most lively idea of Sterne's La Fleur. So much was he surprised when I desired him to clear the table, that he exclaimed, Vraiment vous etes de trespetits mangeurs. After supper we were visited by the stew- ard of the house, who brought with him a folio book, in w^hich he desired us to write our names, the place whence we came, and whither we were going. Upon enquiring into the reason why we were required to do this, we were in- formed, that all inn-keepers in the French garrison towns are obliged every evening to give in to the commandant a list of their guests, and the above-mentioned particulars of their history and desti- nation. Soon after we had complied with this military requisition, we retired to our apartments, which we found neat and comfortable. On Monday morning, the 21st of June, M. du B. favoured us with his company to breakfast. Sterne beautifully observes, in his Sentimental Journey, " You take a withering twig and put it in the ground, and then you water it, because you have planted it." In the spirit of this principle M. du B., having in a manner c 3 enabled us to proceed to Paris, proposed to take us under his protection during our journey thither. Fearing, that in con- sequence of our evident ignorance of French customs, we should be imposed upon on the road, he invited us to travel in company with himself and two of his friends who were proceeding to Paris in a voiture. Nothing could have been more welcome to us than this invitation. Finding that it would be necessary for us to procure fresh passports from the commissary of the district, we repaired to the proper office as soon as it was open, and at the end of two hours afiter our ap- plication was made, we procured these vexatious documents. This time was employed in getting some little repairs done to our carriage, and in fitting to it a pair of shafts instead of the pole. By the laws of posting in France, carriages ■which are furnished with a pole are obliged to take a greater number of horses than those which are provided with shafts ; so that the Louis which we paid for a pair of shafts was money well laid out, and was the means of saving us. 23 considerable expence. Having received our passports, and settled our account at the hotel, we took our departure from Calais, being assured by the femme de chambre and the gargon that we should find Paris a charming city. Our chaise was drawn by three horses which were harnessed abreast of each other. The harness displayed very little leather, being principally composed of ropes. Calais appears to be strongly fortified on the land side. Before we entered the suburbs we passed through five different gates. When we had proceeded about a mile we passed a fort, the cannon or which command a causeway elevated above the low grounds, which extend to the town, and which can, upon emer- gency, be laid under water. After tra- velling about an hour and a quarter through a road which presented nothing interesting except some occasional views of the British channel, we changed horses at Hautbuisson, a large solitary post- house, situated on a considerable emi- nence. From Hautbuisson we proceeded to Beaupre, otherwise called Marquise c 4 24 a small and ill-biiill town. The next post is Boulogne- sur-mer. On our approach to the gates of this town we were stopped by a municipal officer, who, after ex- amining our passports, suffered us to pro- ceed. As we passed rapidly on, only stopping at the post-house to change horses, we could make no particular ob- servations on this town ; tlie old forti- fications of which, however, appearing through trees which skirt the outside of the walls, have an ^ interesting air of grandeur. From Boulogne we proceeded through Samers and Cormont, two in- considerable places, to Montreuil-sur- mer, where we intended to pass the night. Montreuil is situated on a com- manding eminence, and must, in former times, have been an impregnable fortress. In this stage I was the avant-conrier, and being charged with the important commission of ordering supper, I re- paired for that purpose to the Cour de la Prance, the best inn which the town afforded. As it was at least ten o'clock when I arrived there, I caused no small bustle in the house, by announcing my- 25 self as the precursor of six hungry tra- vellers. The host immetliately fell to cookmg, while, having taken my station in the chimney-corner, I watched the process with all the interest naturally excited on such an occasion by a very keen appetite. At the end of about half an hour after my arrival my fellow-tra- vellers drove up to the door, when the ladies were formally introduced to M. du 'B.'s friends, the one of whom was named T., the other G. The latter was tall and thin in person, and the paleness of his countenance indicated a feeble constitu- tion. T. was corpulent and stout, and his round plump visage indicated that his corporeal far exceeded his mental powers. When I first beheld him, I immediately classed him among the fruges consumere natiy and his conduct on his arrival in the inn confirmed me in my classification : for he had no sooner alighted from the voiture, than he enquired with earnest impatience for his supper. Finding that it was not ready, he expressed the ut- most surprize, and -instantly darted into the kitchen, and with considerable em- 26 phasis of phrase, backed by the most expressive gesticulation, began to give directions to the landlord, who, under his superintendance, soon served up a very comfortable repast. To the excel- lence of Mons. Varenne*s cookery our fellow-traveller bore unequivocal testi- mony. Inserting the comer of his nap- kin in the upper botton-hole of his jacket, he fell upon the soup, the omelette, and the pigeons, with a voracity equal to that of the parasite who favoured Gil Bias with his company in the town of Penna- flor, every now and then pressing the ladies to follow his example. The ladies were unfortunately too much fatigued to enjoy their supper ; and Mons. T., who regarded hearty eating as the sole indi- cation of true enjoyment of life, ex- pressed his concern at their want of appe- tite in the most pathetic terms. Soon after supper they escaped from the testi- monies of his compassion by retiring to rest. In the course of this day's journey we found the road very good. The country through wliich we passed was hilly, but 27 Dot being inclosed, and being almost des- titute of wood, it did not present to the eye that interesting variety which is af- forded by the intersection of trees and hedges. It was, however, well cultivated, and was chiefly in tillage. The crop seemed to be abundant ; but I learned, upon inquiry, that the farmers expected only a middling harvest. Very-few cottages occurred on the road side. Those w^hich we saw, by their stone window-cases, their sash-panes, and by their general appear- ance, put me strongly in mind of the houses of the peasantry in Scotland. This recollection was strengthened by the sun- burnt countenances and hard features of the lower orders of women, who appeared to be almost exclusively employed, not only in- the lighter, but also in the more laborious departments of agriculture. Mr. R. and I found the bidets or gallo- ways, which are kept for the use of those who ride post, much livelier, easier, and safer than the worn-out post-horses of England. The ruined churches which we ob- served in our route, indicated the ravages 28 of a multitude eager to destroy the very vestiges of a system of religion which had, for so many centuries, reigned with abso- lute sway over the human intellect. The postillion, who drove us from Calais, wore a pair of light boots ; whence I concluded that the Age of Reason had banished the old cumbrous jack-boots, which are, in England, so copious a sub- ject of ridicule. But at Hautbuisson, and at all the other stages, the legs of our drivers were cased in the ancient armour. Indeed, the boots seemed to increase in dimensions, in direct propor- tion to ou' nearer approach to the metropolis. At six o'clock on Wednesday morning, June 23d, we left Montreuil, and pro- ceeded rapidly through Nampont, Bernay, and Nomion, to Abbeville. As it hap- pened to be my turn to have the honour of being the outrider on this last stage, while I was waiting for the arrival of the rest of the party, I stept into a large church, which was situated near the post-house. I was surprized to find, that, though this edifice, in other respects, exhibited evident 29 marks of revolutionary rage, it contained several pictures, which were not at all damaged. This tenigma was, however, explained to me by a woman, who offi- ciously came to attend me ; and, among other matters, informed me, that these pictures had been lately presented to the church by the cure, who had been ap- pointed to do duty there since the restitu- tion of religion. After conversing for some time w^th this woman I dismissed her with the gift of a few pence, wishing to be left to my own meditations. These were, however, soon interrupted by a *« lean unwashed artificer :** who, pre- suming that Monsieur was a stranger, would with pleasure explain to him the subjects of the paintings. This new ci- cerone informed me, that, at the com- mencement of the revolution, many great seigneurs had fled from Abbeville ; but that, during the whole course of that awful political struggle, no blood had been shed in that place. Whilst we were con- versing together, I observed a gentleman come out of a small cabinet adjoining to the high altar, before w^hich he knelt 5 30 down, and began his devotions. On my asking my guide, whether this gentleman was a priest, he answered no ; — but that he was a private individual, who every day spent the hours from eight till twelve o'clock in repeating his prayers ; and who, on Sundays, resumed his religious exer- cise at two o'clock in the afternoon, and continued it till midnight. Vraimenty Monsieur, said my conductor, with every token of admiration in his countenance, — vraimenty c*est wi brave homme ! Tliere was certainly something prepossessing in the physiognomy and manner of this devotee ; but I could not help thinking that he would better discharge his duty by abstracting a large portion of the * above-mentioned time from prayer, and dedicating it to more active exertion in the cause of goodness. My fellow-travellers being arrived, we continued our journey, passing on to Ailly, where we began to talk of dinner, and determined to take that meal at the next town, which is called Flixcourt. On this important occasion the powers of Mons. T. were roused into full activity. 31 Justly entertaining strong doubts as to my abilities in catering, he proposed to take my post as avant-couriert to which arrangement I readily consented. He accordingly mounted the bidet^ which happened to be the smallest which had occurred in the whole course of our jour- ney ; and cracking a large whip which he had borrowed at the post-house, he set off with great eclat and galloped away to Flixcourt. At this place he played the part of a truly active citizen ; lor, though on his arrival the pigeons had to undergo the operation of killing, (of which circumstance he apprized us with a most expressive gesture,) by the time our carriages drove into the court a most choice repast was ready to be set upon the table.. Though the ladies to-day , made a much better figure in the use of their knives and forks than they had done yesterday, Mons. T. still thought their diet much too spare ; and, with great emotion, declared his apprehensions that they would absolutely expire on the road through inanition. I assured him that I would guarantee their holding out as far 32 as Paris ; so we proceeded through Pec- qiiigny to Amiens. At this city I stept into a church, where I found about two hundred people occupied in their devo- tions. This church was spacious, and elegant in point of architecture, but it had been stript of its organ, and of all its other ecclesiastical ornaments. I was glad, however, to observe, that the fury of the rabble had spared a very handsome marble monument, which is situated near the high altar. When, on my entrance into Amiens, I gallopped up to the post-house on my bidets I ob- served five and twenty women sitting and chatting very merrily on the sunny side of the street opposite to that build- ing. This coterie did not honour me with any notice ; but when the carriages appeared they rose with precipitation — their cheerfulness was at once trans- muted into misery, and in the most melan- choly tones, they implored charity T^owr r amour de DieUy declaring that they were dying for want of bread. Would other travellers give no more to these mendi- cants than we did, they would soon give 33 give up the trade of begging. Hasten- ing from their yell, we rapidly passed through Hebecourt to Flers. At the latter place I had a long conversation with an ancient dame, the mistress of a tavern, where I prepared a little re- freshment against the coming of our party. On my assuring mine hostess, among other things, that I thought the French ladies tres belles^ et extremement piquanteSy she made a very eloquent eulo- gium on English cutlery, and concluded her harangue by begging of me an English pen-knife. I was really sorry that I could not gratify her wishes in this respect, but gave her something to pur- chase such an article should an oppor- tunity ever occur ; and in return for my kindness she presented me with a pinch of snuff. Whilst this ceremony was passing, her husband entered the room. Pointing to a tree wliich I observed in the market-place, I asked the good man if that was the tree of liberty ; to which question, with a ghastly grin, he an- swered in the affirmative. , Then looking tlnough the window, I saw the church, D 34 which appeared to be dismantled. This circumstance induced me t(f ask him whetiier their new priest had yet fixed his residence among them ? " Quit Mon- sieur,** said Boniface. " I am afraid, my friend," said I, "you now allow those good folks but a scanty salary." " Those who do not work, and are not in the way of raising a family," replied the landlord, " do not deserve a large one." As 1 coidd not controvert the abstract propo- sition laid doA\Ti in this doctrine, I did not attempt to argue the case. The rattling of our carriage wheels, indeed, now closed our conference. After the ladies had taken a little milk, which I had prepared for them, we continued our route to Bretueil, where we took up our lodgings for the night ; Monsieur T. again assuming the weighty office of su- perintending the cooking of our supper. On Thursday moniing, June 24, after a most refreshing sleep, we again com- menced our labours, and hurried through Wavigny and St. Juste to Clermont. As we ascended the steep hill on which this to'vvn is built, we found almost all the 35 houses in the street through which we passed in a manner covered with white counterpanes j many of these were pro- fusely ornamented with garlands of flowers, whilst others were more simply adorned with a few roses affixed to them at equal distances. The street was lined on each side with people, from one of whom I enquired the reason of these appearances of festivity, and was informed that this day was tlie feast of St. John, and that we should soon meet the pro- cession of the host. We accordingly en- countered that pious cavalcade about the middle of the town. It was preceded by a man holding a kind of flag or banner. After him came a number of boys arrayed in surplices. These boys were followed by a man who sounded a deep key-note upon a bourdoiiy a crooked instrument whichresembled a serpent. Nextmarched the chief priest, who, preceding the host, borne under a. canopy, intonated the prayers" in concert with several of his brethren, who followed him in a group. The procession was closed by a company of women, who, whining in chorus, main- D 2 36 tained, with little interruption, a hollow moaning kind of noise ; some with much apparent devotion, others with evident indifference. The respect which oiu* pos- tillion paid to this religious ceremony, in stopping the chaise till it had passed, gave us an opportunity of seeing it to the best advantage. From Clermont we proceeded to Lingueville, and thence to Chantilly. The rq^te from Chantilly to Paris is very pleasant ; the road being skirted on each side by lofty trees, and the distant prospects affording a rich variety of gentle hills, many of which are adorned with phateaus embosomed in woods. Here, too, we began to travel through gardens and vineyards, which seemed to be secured from depredation by no other guard than the honest liabits of the passengers. Passing through Lu- zarches and Ecouen, we arrived at about half past three o'clock at the pleasant town of St. Denis, wliich, at the time of the mortal antipathy which the Great Nation all on a sudden conceived against the whole army of holy men, was rebap- tized by the name of Franciade. Here 37 we had a view of the magnificent Gothic catliedral, which was formerly the ceme- tery of the kings of France. Few edi- fices have suffered more by the active hand of revolutionary violence than this cathedral. In pursuance of a decree of the Convention it was visited by a num- ber of commissioners, who proceeded systematically to strip it of the insignia of the Gallic monarchy, which formerly constituted its proudest ornaments. Un- der the direction of these political Goths the repose of deceased Royalty was vio- lated. Not only were the monuments of the kings demolished, but their coffins were torn from their receptacles, their remains were scattered abroad, and the lead in which their bodies had been en- closed was melted and converted into bullets. When the barbarians who had committed those outrages had finished their work of destruction, they addressed to their constituents a proces-verbal, de- scribing the nature and extent of their operations, which is not one of the least interesting documents relating to the period of revolutionary fanaticism. D 3 «j» 0!s3Vo«.* 38 At about five o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at the walls of Paris. We found the barriers guarded by soldiers and officers of the police, two of whom ordered our carriage to stop, and de- manded our passports. As we were . waiting whilst these documents were ex- amined, I could not help reflecting on the facility which the establishment of such checks upon the liberty of ingress and egress had afforded to revolutionary murderers, in the perpetration of the most atrocious crimes. V> hencver Robes- pierre wished to destroy the virtuous senators, or the generous citizens, whose daring spirit prompted them to bear open testimony against his crimes, he issued the fatal mandate. — The g!iards sta- tioned at the barriers were reinforced by revolutionary agents — Paris was heiTne- tically sealed — the victims of the tyrant's rage were deprived even of the hope of escaping. For, if when driven from their asylums by tlie blood-hounds, who by means of domiciliary visits hunted down the devoted prey, they ventured to try their fortune at the gates of the city, the 8 . 39 strict scrutiny which they there under- went almost infallibly betrayed them into the hands of their executioners. How many countenances have turned pale — how many hearts have ached at the sight of these horrid portals. So much w^as I impressed with these considerations, that though I was well assured that our pass- ports were strictly regular, I felt a slight degree of uneasiness, till we received them from the examiners, wdth permis- sion to proceed into the city. Mr. F. had recommended to us the hotel de Bretagne, Rue de la Loi; but, on our ap- plying to the lai;idlord of that house, we found that he could not accommodate us v/ith lodging. We were equally disap- pointed at. the hotel du Carousel, and at two or three other places whither we were directed by an English gentleman, who, seeing our embarrassment, had the politeness to send his servant to assist us in gaining a settlement. At length re- turning to the Rue de la Lot, we made the necessary enquiries at the hotel de Toscane, the handsome hostess of which shewed me an elegant parlour, and two D 4 40 good lodging rooms, which she purposetl to Jet for ten Louis per week. As I was absolutely tired of running up and down one pair of stairs after another, and as I suspected that we might possibly go far- ther and fare worse, I agreed to these extravagant terms. As, however, the apartments in question were occupied by a party who were on the eve of their departure, Madame intimated to me that we could not enter upon tliem till the next day, and that, in the mean- while, we should be under the necessity of taking up our quarters en liaut; — or, in plain English, in the garret. We ac- cordingly climbed up five pair of stairs, and were shewn into apartments which, notwithstanding the altitude of their situation, were elegantly furnished, and promised to weary travellers a consi- derable degree of comfort. Our first care was to send for dinner from a neighbouring restaurateur*^. W hilst we were occupied in this repast, the land- lord came to suggest to us, that we should find a valet de place extremely iiselUi duriiig our residence in Paris. 41 We cordially agreed with him in opinion ; and at Jiis recommendation we hired a smart young fellow of about twenty years of age, the lobes of whose ears were dis- tended by a pair of golden or gilded ear- rings, of about the size of the circle of ware in which prudent house-wives collect their keys. Henri, for this was the name of our new domestic, had been a great traveller ; he had visited Italy, and had served an English gentleman at the siege of Porto Ferrajo — -and if his own word could be taken as evidence, he could speak Italian as well as his native tongue. When we had dispatched our dinner, we were conducted by Henri to the chateau of the Tuilleries. As we approached the front of this extensive edifice by the Place du Carousel, I distinctly saw the positions occupied by the Marseillois, and the Swiss, on the eventful loth of August, 1792, the day when Louis XVI., driven by tiie fury of the populace into the hall of the National Assembly, was a w^itness of the debate which ended in his deposition, and in the declaration that 42 France was thenceforth a RepubHc, one and indivisible. The iron gates which lead into the court of the chateau are flanked by two standards of iron work, made after the model of the Roman ensign ; differing in- deed from it in no other respect, than that a cock supplies the place of the eagle ; and R. F. (^Republic Frangaise) glitters on the tablet instead of S. P. Q. R. On the front of the chateau I obsei-ved the imposing inscription, LIBERTE EGALITE' INDIVISIBILITE' DE LA REPUBLIQUE. In the windows, and in the balcony of a large apartment under the dome, we saw several officers and soldiers of the consular guard then on duty, who appeared to be beguiling the tediousness of their service, by observ- ing the ever-changing multitude of pas- sengers, who were proceeding through the chateau, on their way to and from the gardens. Following this multitude, we entered the vestibule, where we saw the grand stair-case, which on the loth of August, 1792, was strewed with the 4:3 dead bodies of its brave defenders, the Swiss guards. We then pressed forward into the gardens, which are very exten- sive, and laid out in the old style, being- composed of straight alleys, bordered by trees and extensive terraces, ornamented by statues. Among the principal curio- sities of this place are, a great number of orange trees, the beauty of which is, however, completely destroyed by the sheers of the tasteless gardeners, who have completely trimmed away all the interesting extravagances of nature, and reduced them to the monotonous exact- ness of so many vegetable globes. Vast crowds of people were taking their even- ing walk in the garden. The females were well dressed ; but the males were very slovenly in their apparel, and had the appearance of journeymen barbers, ratlier than of gentlemen. Directing our course through the central alley, we proceeded to the Place Louis XV., alias Place de la Revolution, alias Place de la Concorde. In the middle of this square, the feeble and unfortunate Louis XVI. terminated his wretched existence 44 by the axe of the guillotine. Here, too, the Brissots, the Vergniauds, the Giiadets, the Carras, and the Sillerys, were taught by sad experience, that ** the children of ' tliis world are wiser in their generation than the children of light" — that in revolutionary struggles, those whose vir- tue renders them scrupulous about the means of preserving power, must sink in a conflict with the hardened adventurers, whose heaits are strangers to the emo- tions of pity or of shame. Here also Danton learnt, too late, that cowardly despotism bears no brother near the throne — and Robespierre beheld in the countenances of the multitude who wit- nessed his miserable end, the joy which enlivens the heart of a whole nation, when its oppressor is led forth to pay the forfeit of his atrocious deeds. The spot where the fatal engine of destruction has been so frequently erected, is marked by a wooden railing. I should like to dive into the emotions of Bonaparte, when he passes this *' field of Blood," where so many revolutionary chieftains have bowed their heads to the stroke of death. 45 From the Place de la Concorde we di- rected our course by the Quai de la Con- ference to the Quai du Louvre. Here our valet pointed out to us the balcony whence Charles IX. fired upon his Pro- testant subjects, who were flying from the dacfirers of the assassins on the ever me- morable day of St. Bartholomew. In tlie heat of the Revolution an inscription was placed under this gallery, recording an anecdote so disgraceful to Royalty ; but Buonaparte has lately caused this inscrip- tion to be effaced. Irregular rulers, who , esteem themselves established in power, are not eager to propagate reflections upon *' regular governments.'* From the Quai du Louvre, we walked to the Palais Royal. This is an extensive edifice, built in the form of a parallelogram, inclosing a large garden, which is ornamented with trees and laid out in straight gravel walks. It was formerly the property and residence of the late Duke of Orleans,, who converted the apartments on the ground floor into shops, the rent of which composed a considerable part of his over- grown revenue. These shops are weU 46 furnished, and by the skilful arrangement of the commodities which they contain, they make a very brilliant appearance. As they are arranged under piazzas, they are conveniently accessible in the worst of weather. The crowds which are perpe- tually bustling through these piazzas, and the groups which occupy the gardens, some lounging along the alleys, others sitting in luxurious indolence in chairs, which are let out for hire to the weary pedestrian, form a very interesting specta- cle. When we arrived at this resort of the busy and the gay, it was just lighted up, and appeared in all its glory. The hurry and bustle which we could obsei-v^j through the windows of the coffee-houses and gaming-houses that occupy the whole extent of the first story, indicated that this was the time and place of the high change of dissipation. Returning to the hotel de Toscane, we took some fruit for supper, and being fatigued by our day's journey and our walk, we retired at an early hour to bed — to bed — but not to rest. I had not slept above a quarter of an hour, before 47 1 awoke and found myself in an abso- lute fever, which I soon discovered to be occasioned by the venomous bites of im- mense hosts of bugs. During the whole of the night " I was full of tossings and turnings to and fro," and was truly thankful to see the returning dawn. Mrs. S. fully sympathized in my sufferings, and we found on enquiry, that Miss R. was no less disagreeably situated than ourselves. As soon as I quitted my bed of torment, I infonned myself by the help of my French dictionary of the French appellation of our troublesome visitants ; and as soon as Madame was stirring I exhibited a formal complaint on the subject of this most alarming grievance. When I begged her to ob- serve how my face was swelled, assuring her that it might be fairly taken as a sample of the condition of my whole carcase, Madame summoned into her countenance a large portion of commi- seration, and said that she was extremely chagrined by the circumstance ; but if Monsieur had been so good as to ring the bell when he found himself annoyed, her 48 people would have arranged a bed for him on the floor of his apartment, where he might have slept in perfect security. I begged to be informed whether we must consider this resource as our security in the apartments to which we were soon to be transferred, and was glad to hear her assure us that we should not there find the troublesome guests who had made such inroads upon our comfort in the higher regions. Balancing Madame's positive assertion against tha probability of the emigration of these insects from one part of a house to another, I enter- tained hopes that we might escape any further annoyance, and determined to bear the present inconvenience with all the patience which I could muster. Soon after breakfast on Friday the 25th June, Mr. R. and myself, after conducting the ladies to the gallery of the Louvre, went to present our letters of credit to Mons. Pere- geaux. We then repaired to the bureau of the district, where our passport underwent an inspection, in consequence of which we received certain papers which we were or- dered to carry as soon as possible to the 49 praefecture of the police. After this busi- ness was finished we returned to the gal- lery of the Louvre. It is impossible for language to do justice to the wonderful coup (Tceil afforded by this magnificent apartment, which forms a vista of 1300 feet in length, the sides of which are richly ornamented by the most exquisite productions of the pencil, selected by the eye of taste from the vast repositories of conquered Germany and Italy. Here the chefs d'aeuvre of Raphael, Titian, Caracci, Domenichino, Poussin, Rem- brandt, in short of all the most illustrious masters of the graphic art, are exhibited in such rich profusion, that in wandering through the maze of beauty, the eye know^s not where to rest. A due exami- nation of these inestimable pictures would occupy the leisure of a whole life, — their value can be justly appreciated only by enlightened professors. It would therefore be highly presumptuous in the unlearned traveller to record more than the gene- ral impression which he received from this spectacle. I shall therefore only say, that highly as my expectations had been £ 50 • wound up, by the perusal of the criticisms made on many of these pictures by con- noisseurs, who had travelled in the coun- tries whence they had been lately re- moved, the paintings tliemselves left the conceptions of my imagination at an im- measurable length behind. After taking a survey of these treasures, I went into the apartments appropriated to the recep- tion of antique statues. Here, when I found myself surrounded by the works of Praxiteles and Xeuxis, works which, for so many centuries before the Christian aera, had excited the enthusiastic admi- ration of enlightened Greece, and which the bold spirit of the Romans durst not aspire to emulate, I could hardly per- suade myself of the reality of the scene w hich was exhibited to my view, — and when I proceeded to gaze with minute attention on the Apollo, the Laocoon, the Mirmillo-moriens, and the other pieces of sculpture with which the engravings and casts, that I had consulted in the course of my classical studies, had made me familiar, I soon found that no copy was adequate to represent the spirit of the 51 august originals. Wliat a lesson does tliis collection give on the instability of human things! These breathing marbles were the splendid fruits of the victories gained by the armies of Rome over the dege- nerate Greeks. The Romans have dege- nerated in their turn ; and the prize of valour has been wrested from their feeble hands, by the descendants of those Gauls, whom they once compelled to submit to the yoke of slavery. Who can deem it an impossible supposition, that, in the course of revolving years, it may be transferred by the hand of victory from t^e Seine to the Neva, from Paris to Petersburgh. * The administrators of the French go- vernment exercise the greatest liberality in facilitating the access to these galle- ries, which are open, without fee or reward, to strangers every day, from ten in the morning to four in the afternoon, and to the Parisians three days in tlie week. On^these days they are crowded * The reader will not fail to remark that this supposition, which was made in 1802, was in 1844. near being verified. JE 2 52 with visitants, many of which are of the lowest classes of the community. For the preservation of order, ccntincls are stationed at tlie doors of the apartments, and curators attend to prevent any one from damaging the pictures. Inscriptions, affixed at proper distances, warn the visitors to respect the national property ; and in order to prevent accidents, gentle- men are obliged to leave their canes, and ladies their iiins and parasols, at the door, in the custody of a woman, who returns them to their owners when they quit the gallery. In order that the proprietor of each of these articles may be readity ascertained, the persons who deposit them take a ticket, the counterpart of which is affixed to their property, and on their exhibiting this ticket, they receive the cane or parasol which corresponds with its number. Leaving the gallery of the Louvre about three o'clock, Mr. R. and I, after conducting the ladies home, went to the Palais Royal, where we read the English newspapers at the Caffe d'Angleterre, which house is regularly supplied with 53 the Morning Chronicle, the Sun, and the Times. From the Palais Royal we walk- ed to the Tuilleries ; here I observed some workmen employed in gilding four bronze horses, placed at proper distances on pedestals in the range of iron railing, which separates the court of the chateau from the Carousel. The destiny of these horses is somewhat singular. They first adorned a triumphal arch erected at Rome in honour of Nero. After the lapse of up- wards of two hundred years, they were transported by Constantine the Great to the newly founded capital of the Eastern em- pire, where they constituted the princi- cipal ornament of the hippodrome. When the Venetians made themselves masters of Constantinople in the twelfth century, they took possession of these statues, conveyed them back to Italy, and placed them on the fa9ade of the church of St. Mark at Venice, where they lately became the prey of the Gallic invaders, who removed them to Paris. In the evening we took a box at the Opera National, where we were grati- fied by one of the most exquisite drama- E 3 54 tic performances which I ever attended in my life. ^ The opera was CEdipe a Colone, the words of which were com- posed by Guillard, and the music by Sac- chini. Considerable interest seemed to be excited in the audience by the first appearance of a new actor in the cha- racter of PoHnice. This performer, whose name I do not recollect, acquitted him- self to the satisfaction of a crowded house. The magnificence of the scenery, the correctness of the costume of the actors, the feeling manner in which they delivered the recitative, and sung the airs, and the excellence of the musie, con- spired to make a most enchanting im- pression on tlie senses. The dances were truly astonishing ; the agility, the grace, and the precision of the chorusses, me- rited the loud encomiums which were bestowed upon them by the amateurs. But when Vestris gave to the most difficult exertions of the limbs, all the elegance of apparent ease, the spectators were ab- solutely enraptured ; they sat in breathless expectation, and all their faculties seem- ed to be suspended on his ** light fantas- 55 tic toe.** Indeed, the pleasure of the scene was not a little enhanced by the lively interest of the audience. I never before witnessed in any theatre, such si-^ lence, such attention, such evident sym- pathy in the proceedings of the stage. Every person present appeared to be a critic. Every individual seemed to at- tend for the purpose of being amused by the drama ; and I am confident that if any box-lobby loungers had ventured to make the least disturbance, they would have severely felt the effects of the ge- neral indignation. To the disgrace of Englishmen, it must be confessed, that there is a striking contrast between the decorum of a Parisian, and the tumult of a London theatre. On Saturday Mr. R. and myself, after escorting the ladies to the gallery of the Louvre, went to the praefecture of the police, where we procured cartes de suretSf a kind of licence to stay in Paris for a limited time, and to travel in the department of the Seine, and in the communes of Sevres, Meudon, and St. Cloud. In this licence the hotel where E 4 56 wc lodged was specified, and we wei'e apprized, that if we changed the place of our residence, we must immediately give notice of our new abode to the prae- fect of the police. This business being concluded, I went to the hotel of Mr. Merry, the English minister plenipoten- tiary, in order to present to that gentle*- man a letter of introduction, which had been procured for me by Mr.M. Mr. Merry being engaged in making up his dispatches, I sent in my letter by the porter, and received from the minister a message, requesting me to call again in an hour's time. With this request I com- plied, but on my re-appearance I was informed, that Mr. Merry had that mo- ment received a courier from England, and begged that I would call again to- morrow. Taking my departure from Mr. Merry's, I rejoined my companions at the gallery of the Loiivre, where we spent the time most luxuriously, till the clock striking four warned us to depart. The gallery was as usual almost crowded with visitors, among whom I observed a Turk or Moor, who seemed to be much 51 interested by the paintings, and who was conversing in English with some of my countrymen, who paid him particular attention. In the evening we took a box at the Comedie Fran9aise, where we attended at the representation of Beaumarchais* famous comedy, La Folk Joumee^ ou le Mariage de Figaro. The acting ap- peared to me to be in the first style. I was particularly pleased with Figaro and Suzanna ; but the rapidity of pronuncia- tion incident to comic dialogue, caused me frequently to lose the thread of their discourse. On the whole, however, I was much gratified. The chief consul was present at the play, but he sat so far retired in his box, that it was difficult to catch a glimpse of him. Neither his entrance, nor his exit, excited any emo- tion in the audience, who w6re as decor- ous in their manners, and as intent upon the business of tlie drama, as the specta- tors of last night's opera. In the course of this day I sent to Miss Helen Maria Williams two letters of "in- troduction, which I had procured from 58 Doctors Currie and Gregory. These letters so far availed me that MissW. immediately sent me a polite note, inti- mating that she was sorry that the bustle and confusion, occasioned by a change of residence would not permit her for a day or two to see company at her own home ; but that she would give me the earliest notice of her being settled in her new house, where she would be then happy to see me. On Sunday morning, the 27th, we went to hear high mass in the church of Notre Dame. On our way to this vener- able Gothic edifice, we observed that about one half of the shops were open, and the other half shut. If our obser- vation was tolerably correct it would of course ascertain the opinion of the boW' geois of Paris, on the reverence due to the Sabbath. 1 was amused with a kind of compromise which some shopkeepers seemed to make between religion and avarice, by shutting their windows and exposing their commodities at their doors. On the whole there was little of the out- ward and visible signs of Sunday. One 59 distinguishing symptom (if the expres- sion may be allowed) of this day was totally wanting, — the ringing of bells. I presume that these noisy annunciators of prayers and curses, of weddings .and deaths, of joy and sorrow, had been all melted and converted into coin during the Revolution. When we arrived _ at the church, the procession of the host had Just begun to move up one of the side aisles. Penetrating the crow d which was assembled in the nave, w^e proceeded to the choir, and ascended into a gallery^ whence we had a full view of almost the whole extent of the church. Our atten- tion was of course attracted by the pro- cession, which was preceded by a num- ber of boys, ckest in white vestments, and bearing tapers. These were follow^ed , by eight or ten priests, w^ho moved on in slow and solemn state, singing as they walked. Then appeared the distributors of the incense, w^ho dispensed the grate- ful odour from urns of silver, suspended from their waists by a chain of the same metal. The elegance and grace with which they managed these sacred vases 60 would well entitle them to the appella- tion of clerical Vestris*s. In the centre of the procession was borne the canopy which covered the host. This canopy was surrounded by ecclesiastics, and fol- lowed by pious votaries, who chaunted the service as they marched along. The chorus which they formed was rendered more deep by the sound of an instru- ment, similar in tone to a bassoon. The , voices of the priests were nicely in tune, with this instrument, and the harmony which they produced had a very fine effect. The procession was flanked on each side by a party of soldiers, who 1 presume attended for the purpose of protecting the ceremony from the insults of those who are dissatisfied with the re-establishment of the Roman Catholic religion. At the elevation of the host, the commanding officer of the military gave the word in a tone of voice, which echoed through the vaulted roofs of the church. At this signal the drums beat, the swell of the organ mingled with the war- like note — the soldiers kneeling on one knee, fixed the butt-end of their muskets 61 on the pavement, and continued in that attitude till, on the cessation of the sound of the drums and organ, the word of com- mand was given, and they arose. After the procession had made the circuit of the inside of the church, the chief priests advanced to the high altar, where they performed the masss, their voices being occasionally assisted by the organ. At various^ intervals voluntaries were played upon this instrument, some of which were absolutely jiggs. . On the whole our visit to Notre Dame presented to us a strange mixture of religious so- lemnity, military state, and levity. In the course of the service two collections of money occurred, the first for the benefit of tlie church, the second for the relief of the poor. Of the multitudes which were assembled to-day in this vast edifice, 1 do not believe that more than two hundred repaired thither for reli- gious purposes. The rest seemed to be composed only of persons, who were attracted by motives of curiosity. When the mass was ended, we left the 02 church of Notre Dame, and diove to the spot where once stood the Bastille. The towers and the outward walls of this once formidable edifice are so com- pletely rased, that not a trace of them is to be seen. The two inner courts re- main, and are converted into barracks. Among the interesting reflections which the contemplation of this memorable spot must excite in every thinking mind, the following appears to me the most serious ; that however easy a. matter it may be to destroy fortresses and pri- sons, and all the implerrients of despotism, it is a most difficult task to maintain the principles of liberty in their full vigonr and unsullied purity, and to organize a con- stitution of government, which will pro- tect the rights of citizens, and secure the public happiness. For have not the iden- tical people, who braved death in- com- bating the long established power of the Capets, cringed beneath the bloody- sceptre of Robespierre ? And do they not even now bow in dumb submission before tlie throne of Bonaparte ? These reflec- 63 tions were renewed and confirmed when w^e proceeded to the Temple. This edifice, which has acquired a melancholy fame, in consequence of its having been select- ed by the National Convention as the prison of Louis XVI., is now used as a place of confinement for state prisoners of all ranks. If the information which I obtained be correct, the mandate of the second Cromwell is of itself sufficient to cause those whom he deems enemies to his domineering influence, to be ar- rested, and immured within the walls of this new Bastille. From the Temple we drove along the Boulevards to the church of St.Made- laine, where the remains of Louis XVI, were interred amidst the bodies of the unfortunate people who had been crushed to death in the Place de Louis XV. on the day of his marriage, and of the assailants who had fallen before the Tuilleries, on the loth of August, 1792. Soon after our return home I received a visit from a gentleman, who w^aited on me on the pait of Miss Williams, with 64 an invitation to tea on Tuesday evening, which I readily accepted. After dinner we visited Frascati, which is a kind of tea-gardens, situated on the Boulevards, at the extremity of tlie Rue de la Lot. This garden is not very extensive, but it is laid out with much taste ; and exhibits in its narrow space a sui^p rising variety of objects. At the entrance, a kind of gallery, lined with mirrors, leads into a square build- ing, divided into several apartments, all of which are fitted up for the pui7)ose of taking refreshments. The garden itself is divided into two parts, by a central walk or alley. On each side of this walk are erected small pillars, round which are entwined wood-bines, passion flowers, and several other species of climbing plants. The capitals of these pillars are connected by rods of iron, to which are attached the names of the most celebrated ancient and modern poets ; among which I particularly distinguished my country- men Pope, Dryden, and Milton. At the end of the central walk, there is a beauti- ful piece of rock-work forming a grotto. 65 over which is stretched a paviHon of painted canvass. The remainder of this extremity of the garden is judiciously diversified with miniature eminences, covered with shrubs, with shady walks, and arbours; the whole adorned with statues, each of which holds in its hand a small lamp. This is a truly tasteful mode of illumination, and I could easily give credit to our valet's assertion, that the lighting of these lamps produces a very fine effect. No money is required for admission into Frascati. The profits of the proprietors arise from the sale of ices and other refreshments. On Monday, June 28, at 10 o'clock in the morning, I went to the National Library, which is situated in the Rue de la Loif at no very great distance from the hotel de Toscane. At the door of this, ^§ of eveiy other public institution, a centinel is posted. When I entered the gateway, the soldier on duty civilly in- formed me, that I could not be admitted to-day, at the same time pointing out to my observation an advertisement affixed to the folding doors, announcing, that 9 66 tlioLigh the library was every day open to men of letters, those whose visits were occasioned merely by motives of curiosity, were admitted only on Wednesdays and Fridays. When I had perused this notice I turned to the centinel and said, — ** But, my good friend, I am a man of letters.'* On this annunciation of my character, the guardian of literature put his hand to his hat with a most respect- ful air, and desired me to have the good- ness to walk up stairs, where, he said, he did not doubt that I should meet with every accommodation. The honest sol- dier was not mistaken. On my arrival in the first apartment, I addressed myself to a gentleman who was sitting at a table, and was instantly informed by him to which of the curators I must apply for certain manuscripts, which I wished to consult. This curator was the celebrated La Porte du Theil, who received me with the greatest politeness, and was no sooner apprised of the object of my visit, than he set about searching for the manuscripts which I wished to examine. The promptitude with which they were 67 found was a satisfactory proof, that this vast collection of literary curiosities is kept in very good order. Mons. La Porte's assistant having furnished me with materials for writing, I seated myself at a table, which was, soon after my arrival, occupied by about a dozen students. Here I read and made extracts from the Journal of Paris de Grassis for an hour ; at the expiration of which time Mr. R. and the ladies interrupted my labours by a summons to accompany them on their morning's excursion. When I had joined the party, we drove first to the hotel of the British minister, who honoured me with a short audience, in which he treat- ed me with all civility, and said that he should be glad to render me any service which lay in his power during my stay .in Paris. — He also advised me to be early in my application for passports, when our party intended to return to England, as the French offices were not well orga- nized, and the delivery of papers, which must pass through them, was frequently delayed and neglected. When I had taken my leave of Mr. Merry, we went F 2 6S to the Hopital des InvalideSy a spacious and magnificent edifice, the asykim of superannuated and disabled soldiers. This building is composed of five courts. In a large hall over the principal entrance is a library, lately presented to the insti- tution by Bonaparte. This collection of books, by beguiling the wearisomeness incident to decrepitude and gradual decay, must add much to the comforts of such of the inhabitants of this mansion, as have acquired a taste for reading. This gift of the First Consul does not seem to be neglected. I was glad to find the library occupied by about a score of re- spectable looking veterans, who appeared to be intent on their several studies. From the library we were conducted to the kitchen, which is a spacious apartment well provided with the proper utensils. We then ascended to the reservoir, which is supplied with water by means of a pump worked by four horses. Hence \vc were conducted to the apartments where tlie linen of the invalids is deposit- ed, and delivered out after it has been washed. Tlie skilful regularity with. 69 which this department of the domestic ceconomy is conducted, merits no small degree of praise. From the examination of the minutiae of this part of the esta- blishment, we passed, by a violent transi- tion, to the chapel, which, (during the reign of infidelity, was designated by the appellation of the Temple of Mars. This is a spacious and elegant apartment of an oblong form, paved with marble, and ornamented with decorations which must be highly interesting to the feelings of the veteran, with pictures of the battles in which the arms of France have been victorious, and by the standards which were taken from the enemies of the Republic in the course of the late war. Among these trophies of victory, which are said to be eighteen hundred in num- ber, I could discern only two belonging to my native country. Over the entrance into the chapel, there is a beautiful or- gan, and at the opposite end is a kind of pavilion, from the tesselated pave- ment of which we saw, with pleasing astonishment, the cupola of the great dome. This cupola, as well as foin* F 3 smaller ones by which it is flanked, is wonderfully lightsome, and richly adorned with brilliant paintings. On the right hand side of the pavilion is the monu- ment of the great Turenne ; which, to- gether with the body of that illustrious general, was removed thither from the abbey of St. Denis, at the time when, in pursuance of the decree of the Conven- .tion, the sepulchres of the kings of France were consigned to destruction. Upon the whole, I have seen few apart- ments which appear to me comparable in beauty to the chapel of the Invalides, The front of the hospital has, however, no pretension to elegance of architecture. Near the principal entrance we saw the four sculptured captives which formerly appeared to writhe in agony at the base of the statue of Louis XV. in the centre of the Place de la Concorde. The ex- cellence of their workmanship, I sup- pose, caused these images to be preserved. But the sentiment of veneration for the arts was not sufficiently strong to rescue from demohtion the effigy of the mo- narch. When, indeed, the sternness of 71 * repubHcanism refused to spare the once adored semblance of Henry IV., how could it be expected that the statue of the detested slave of Pompadour and Du Barri could escape the general pro- scription levelled against the insignia of royalty ? From the Invalides we proceeded to the Ecole Militaire^ an institution which, as its name imports, was formerly ap- propriated to the education of military officers, but which is now the principal residence of the consular horse-guards. At the gates of the building we found a number of centinels under the command of a sergeant, who demanded our tickets of admission. As we were not provided with these documents, he refused to let us enter, but on our appealing to his politeness by announcing ourselves as English strangers, he sent a message to the commandant, who, without delay, dispatched a soldier, to announce to us his permission to visit the interior of the building, and who informed us that he was ordered to attend us in our walk. The Ecole Militaire consists of several F 4 72 courts, in which the various divisions of the guards are commodiously lodged. In one of these courts was a park of light artillery. The inner front of the edifice is constructed in a beautiful style of architecture, and is surmounted by a handsome dome. Our conductor in- fonned us that he had accompanied Bonaparte on his expedition into Egypt, and had been taken prisoner by the Turks in the island of Corfu. He said that he had experienced very hard treatment during the time of his captivity, having been sent to Constantinople, where he was chained to one of his fellow-prisoners, and compelled to work as a slave. In this situation he was seen by Sir Sidney Smith, who spoke to him with great kind- ness, and gave him money to provide him- self with necessaries. ♦ Our conductor having shewn us every thing which was ' likely to be interesting to us, we offered him a six-livre piece by way of gratuity. This present, however, he politely but peremptorily declined accepting, observing that the consular guards never expected any reward 73 for shewing civility to strangers. This is a punctilio which I beHeve influences the conduct of few private soldiers in any semce. At least, I greatly fear, that in a British grenadier it would have been completely drowned in the idea of a quart of ale. Almost every spot in Paris is revolu- tionary classic ground. From the hos- pital of the Invalides the insurgents of the fourteenth of July procured the arms which enabled them to take the Bastille. Opposite to the front of the Ecole Mill- taire is the Champ de Mars, where the King and the people of France took the famous oath of allegiance to the constitu- tion — an oath, in the violation of which, both parties Avere so precipitate, that it is difficult to decide which led the way in the guilt of perjury. The elevation ot the ground, in the shape of an immense amphitheatre, still marks the situation occupied by the vast multitude which performed and witnessed that striking ceremony. From the Ecole Militaire we drove to the Louvre, where Mr. R. and I left the 74 ladies in the picture-gallery, and went to call upon General Kosciusko, to whom I had been charged by one of his Enghsh friends personally to deliver a packet of letters. We found this great, though unfortunate hero, in a small garden near one of the barriers. He seemed to in- form us, with some little pride, that he cultivated this spot with his own hands. The countenance of Kosciusko is open and chearful — his manners are polished and conciliating. On my expressing my satisfaction at seeing him walk without difficulty, he assured me that he was en- tirely recovered from the wounds which he received on that disastrous day on which the fate of Poland was decided. Aiter conversing with the General for about twenty minutes, we returned home to dinner. In the afternoon our party accompanied me to the Salpetriere, a large hospital situated at the south- eastern extremity of the city, to the prin- cipal physician of which, Monsieur Pinel, I was furnished with a letter of introduc- tion. As Mons. Pinel was gone into the country, I left my letter with the porter, 75 who understanding that I had brought this epistle to the Medecin en Chef, from one of his EngHsh friends, expressed his regret at Mons.PinePs absence, but of- fered to do the hospitaHties of the place, by shewing us the lunatics, for whose ac- commodation a large portion of this great building is appropriated. I thanked him for his kindness ; of which, however, I declined to avail myself, telling him that we had opportunities enough of see- ing madmen in our own country. At a small distance from the Salpe- triere is the Jardin des Plantes, or Bo- tanic Garden, which we visited on our return home. This garden is of an ob- long form, about a quarter of a French league in length, by one-twelfth of the same measurement in breadth. We had not time to walk along its whole extent, and we did not possess sufficient know- ledge of botany to estimate the value of the plants with which it is plentifully stocked. It is laid out in a formal man- ner, and its straight alleys seemed to be frequented by people of all classes. I did not, however, observe any signs of de- 76 predation. This circumstance may, per- haps, be atttributed as much to a very impressive admonition inscribed on a tablet which is fixed in a conspicuous place in the entrance of the garden, as to the ceptinels who attend to preserve or- der. Many striking incidents recorded by the pen of history, shew how easily the Parisians are led by sentiment. In the evening I went with Mr. R. to read the papers in the Palais Royal, which seemed to be more crowded and gay than ever. Tuesday, June 29. This morning from ten o'clock till two I spent at the Na- tional Library, in making extracts from the Journal of Paris de Grassis. The apartments were again occupied by a great number of students, among whom I observed a Turk intently occupied in perusing an oriental manuscript. From two o'clock till four I lounged in the picture-gallery of the Louvre, and then returned home. We had the pleasure of M. du B.'s company to dinner, In the evening I accompanied him and the R.'s to the opera. The drama was Armide, n a subject which affords full scope for that maguificent stage effect for which the French theatre is so justly celebrated. I was so much pleased with the spectacle and the music, that when the hour ar- rived at which I was engaged to attend Mrs. S. to Miss Williams's tea-party, I heartily wished I could have divided myself. Reluctantly leaving the fate of Armida undetermined, I took a fiacre, and after calling for Mrs. S. drove to Miss W.'s house on the Quai Malaquais. Here we found a numerous assemblage of natives of various parts of Europe, some French gentlemen, members of the legislative body — the ex-director Carnot — a Neapolitan Principessa — a Bishop of the same country — a Polish countess — the ci-devant viceroy of Sardinia — several English gentlemen — and though last, not least. General Kosciusko. This party was soon divided into various groups, each of which was engaged in its peculiar subject of conversation. I could not but admire the judicious po- liteness with which our hostess equally distributed her attentions among her 78 numerous guests ; and I was not a little gratified by her requesting me, after I had the honour of two or three conver- salions 'with her, to attend Mrs. S. to her assemblies as often as we could make it convenient, dunng our stay in Paris ; and I thought that I was assured of the sincerity of her invitation when, on my intimating my fears, that the< attention due to our fellow-travellers would prevent us from availing ourselves of her kind- ness, she begged that this objection might be obviated by our fellow-travellers ac- companying us on our future visits to the Quai Malaquais. After spending a most agreeable evening, we took leave of Miss W. at about eleven o'clock. On Wesnesday, June 30th, at ten o'clock in the morning, I resumed my seat at the National Library, which I continued to occupy till two in the after- noon. Whilst I was busy examining and copying a manuscript of Poggio's dialogue on the important subject, An sent sit uxor ducejida ? Mr. R. escorted the ladies to the Gobelins, the Botanic Garden, and the palace and gardens oi the Luxem- 79 burg. Ill tlie evening we went to a kind of amphitheatre erected on the Boule- vards, where we saw divers feats of horsemanship performed by a company of equestrians. As I had never attended at Astley's exhibition of a similar nature, I could not institute a comparison be- tween the Parisian and London equita- tion ; and I can only say, that I was astonished by the dexterity with which most of these performers, and especially a young woman, daughter to the manager, executed a variety of difficult manoeuvres. The interest which my neighbour, a little girl of about five years of age, took in the spectacle, was also a great source of amusement to me. At every new exer- tion of skill her large black eyes were strained to their full extent : — she clap- ped her hands, and beat her feet against the ground, and absolutely screamed with pleasure ; but when, in the course of the evening, one of the performers gave the signal to his horse to lie down prostrate on the ground, and stood on its body, I was highly pleased to observe that she shewed symptoms of great distress, cry- 10 80 ing out aloud, Ah^ pauvre h^te ! and or- dering the man to torment his horse no longer. On Thursday morning, July ist, while I was as usual employed in the National Library, the rest of the party went to hear the Abbe Sicard read a lecture on the instruction of the deaf and dumb. The Abbe illustrated his doctrine by the examination of two or three of his pupils. His lecture was very numerously attended. In the evening we went to the Comedie Fran^aise, to see the Cinna of Comeille. The performance of this drama was ex- cellent. I had no idea that so much interest could have been excited in my mind by the representation of a French tragedy. The pronunciation of the actors was so distinct, and their action so just, and so much feeling did they display, that I absolutely overlooked the enormous length of the dramatic harangues which had so often annoyed me in my closet. I was also much pleased by the strict at- tention paid to the minutiae of costume in the dresses of'the performers. Cinna, liabited in his white toga, with his arm 81 bare from the elbow, shod with sandals, and his short and black hair simply combed over his forehead, made a tridy Roman appearance. The First Consul was pre- sent, but, as usual, he kept himself retired in the corner of his box, and was not noticed by the audience. If the sentiments of the frequenters of the Coinedie Fran- ^aise may be regarded as an epitome of the opinion of the nation at large, I should conclude, from the observations which I made this evening, that the people of France are weary of the republican sys- tem. One solitary plebeian made a few attempts to excite an applause of divers democratic sentiments ; but he was in- dignantly silenced by the rest of the au- dience. On the contrary, the following lines were received with a thunder of approbation : " Mais quand le peuple est maitre on n'agit qu'en tumulte, " La voix de la raison jamais ne se consulte ; ** Les honneurs sont vendus aux plus ambitieux, ** L'autorite livree aux plus seditieux ; »* Ces petits souverains qu'il fait pour un annee, ** Voyant d'un temps si court leur puissance bornee, 8S " Des plus heureux dcsseins font avorter le friiky «« De peur de les laisser a celui qui les suit, " Comme ils out peu de part au bien dont ils ordonnent. «* Dans le champ du public largement ils mois. sonnent, " Assures que chacun leur pardonne aifement, ** Esperant a son tour un pareil traitement : ** Le pire des etats c'est I'etat populaire." The following speech also seemed to kindle the general feeling : " Le ciel a trop fait voir en de tela attentats ** Qu'il hait les assassins et punit les ingrats, " Et quoiqu'on entreprenne et quoiqu*on exe- cute, " Quand il eleve un tr6ne il en venge la chute ; " II se met du parti de ceux qu'il fait regner: " Le coup dont on les tue est long terns a saigner.'* Tlie tragedy of Cinna contains so many passages strikingly applicable to the pre- sent circumstances of the French nation, that I am inclined to conjecture that Bona- parte ordered it to be represented with a view of feeling the pulse of the good people of Paris. In this case the expe- riment must have been perfectly satis- factory to his feelings ; for the Pari- sians seemed to be ripe for the eleva- 83 tion of an Augustus to the Imperial throne. * Friday July 2d. This morning we spent three or four delightful hours in the Music National des Monumens Frangois, — an institution which was projected and organized by Citizen Lenoir. This en- lightened artist, scandalized by the de- struction of the monuments of antient art, which modern barbarism had pro* scribedin all the provincesof the Republic, requested permission from the Convention to collect and combine their scattered fragments ; and, after restoring them as nearly as possible to their primitive state, to deposit them in a large convent situ- ated in the Rue des Petits Augustines* His petition was happily granted, and sufficient funds were assigned him to en- ter upon his meritorious undertaking, which he began with spirit, and which he has conducted with singular judgment and success. To his industry and sa- gacity the Republic is indebted for the * In point of fact, two years after this was writ- ten Bonaparte was declared, or rather declared liimself, Emperor. G 2 84 restoration of upwards of fiv^e lunidred Gallic monuments, which he has arranged in the several apartments of the convent. By classing these specimens of art accord- ing to the ages in which they were respec- tively produced, he has contrived to give an excellent elucidation of the state of sculp- ture in France, at every period, from the decline of the Roman Empire to the end of the reign of Louis XV. In the distri- bution of the several classes Lenoir has evinced a considerable degree of judg- ment. Tlie dim religious gloom of the apartments destined for the reception of the recumbent figures of the saints and warriors of the middle ages, lends the rude efforts of art an interest which they do not in themselves possess. The more exquisite productions of the time of Francis I. and the well-wrought sculp- tures of the age of Louis XIV. are dis- posed in the lightsome halls, where their beauties w411 be best discerned. In the garden of the convent, which is planted with acacias and w illows, he has deposited sev;^ral antient tomb-stones. Here the English traveller will not fail to distin- 85 tinguish the simple monument of Abelard and Heloise. The windows and cloisters are ornamented with painted glass, trans- ported from the glowing windows of a thousand churches, which the bigotted intolerance of modern philosophy had doomed to devastation and pillage. As we found several workmeii employed in sawing freestone, and preparing cement, I presiime that^Lenoir has not yet com- pleted the arrangement of his truly valu- able relics of antiquity. To this, as to the other public institutions of the French metropolis, we were admitted gratis. On our ringing a bell, the door of the con- vent was opened by the porter, of whom w^e purchased a catalogue of the monu- ments, which, by the reference of num- bers affixed to each, explained its design, and traced its history. It is a truly plea- sant circumstance, that in Paris the tra- veller can, at his leisure, examine the most interesting productions of art with- out the fretful attendance- and interfe- rence of a dirty showman, singing out his ten thousand- times-told story,. and hurry- ing him from object to object, impelled G 3 85 by an eager desire to finger his money as soon as possible. The next time I visit Westminster Abbey, or the library and cathedral of Christ Church in Oxford, I shall, I am persuaded, think, if not say, — " they order tliese matters better in France.'* M. du B. having frequently rallied us on the extravagance of our living, Mr. R. and I agreed to-day to witness his su- perior management in procuring a cheap and good dinner. We accordingly ac- companied him to a restaurateur* s in the Palais Roval, where we were introduced into a large room crowded with guests, each party being accommodated with a separate table. Here we ordered a din- ner consisting of the following articles ; I. soup, 2. houilliy 3. pigeons a la cra- paudi :e, 4. veal cutlets, 5. beaf steak. For this ample repast, together with a plate of cherries, and two bottles of common wine, generally known by the iname of tin ordinaire^ or lin du pays we paid 'n the whole, a six livre piece, that is to say, twenty-pence English a hSfd. In the evening M. du B. accom- 87 panied our party, to see the opera of Semiramis. The music of this opera, wliich was composed hy a Frenchman, was by Jio means excellent. The choruses were superior to the solo airs, or to the re- citative ; but the greatest interest of this evening's amusement was derived from the magnificence of the spectacle. The dancing was as usual most captivating. A Frenchman who sat in the next box to ours, observed to me, with manifest exultation of heart, that it was impossi- ble to carry the art to a higher degree of excellence, than that to which it had al- ready attained on the French stage. On Saturday morning, July 3, I spent an hour in transcribing a manuscript in the National Library. At eleven o* clock, Mr. R. called upon me, and for the first time I walked through all the rooms of this magnificent establishment. The col- lection of books is truly astonishing. It is said to consist of three hundred thou- sand volumes. One apartment is entirely occupied by cabinets of medals, and specimens of ancient armour, lamps, and domestic utensils. Among the rest I G 4 88 distinguished tlie famous silver slifeld of Scipio, which was found in the bottom of the Rhone. An ancient bath of por- phyry was also an object well worthy the attention of the curious traveller. In another part of the library we saw a prodigiously large pair of globes, which I suppose are kept nwre for show than use. The long tables which are arranged through almost the whole extent of the first room, were surrounded by two or three hundred students, among whom were some ladies. From the National Librar}% Mr. R. and I went to Mr. Merry's, to enquire what steps it would be necessary to take, in order to procure passports to enable us to return to England. On my show- ing the secretary of legation, the pass- port which we had procured from Lord Hawkesbury, he informed us, that it was of itself sufficient for our purpose, and advised us by no means to make any ap- plication at the French offices, where we should experience every possible in- convenience and delay. I was very much rejoiced to hear that we were al. 89 ready posfiesscd of a licence to revisit our fire-sides ; but was somewhat alarmed, when Mr. Secretary added to his declara- tion, " If you meet with any difficulties in this matter, apply to us.*' I thought the word if had an ominous sound ; and as the difficulties in question were not likely to arise till we arrived at Calais, I did not by any means relish the idea of running the risk of being obliged to seek redress against detention, by correspond- ing with the British minister at the dis- tance of two hundred miles. I deter- mined therefore to consult some of my friends on the subject. In the mean- time, as I wished to witness the form of legal proceedings in France, I went, ac- companied by MnR., to the Palais de la Justice, where my hair-dresser had this morning informed me the courts of law were open. The Palais de la Justice is a very large building, consisting of an ele- gant fa9ade, adorned with columns of the Doric order, and two wings. Ascending a handsome staircase, we entered a large hall, where we found attornies and law- yers, walking to and firo with bags full of 90 papers, and a considerable number of people of all descriptions, some of whom were attracted thither by business, others by curiosity. In short the scene here presented, was exactly similar to that which occurs during term time in West- minster or Guildhall. After lounging in this hall for a few minutes, we followed a crowd which moved up a narrow stair- case into the criminal court. Here the first object which struck my eyes was the culprit, who was seated between two gens d'armeSy upon an elevated bench on the left hand of the judge. I cannot help thinking this arrangement better than that adopted in the English courts of judicature. It has often struck me as a barbarous practice to compel a man^ who is impeached of a capital crime, to stand for hours together, and, gis is some- times the case, with his limbs loaded with fetters, at a time when he ought to have every faculty of mind and body in full command, in order to conduct his defence. Nor am I aware of any good reason, why a prisoner on trial should be placed in such a position, as to concea) 91 his countenance from the view of the audience. It is surely proper, that the ingenuous air of innocence wrongfully accused, should be displayed in all its dignity — nor should that lesson be lost to the public, which may be learnt from the tremulous distraction of the eye, the shame and horror which so frequently designate the consciousness of guilt. I was surprized to observe, instead of a jury, five judges sitting to try the offender, who was accused of forging government securities j and I was sorry to be inform- ed by an intelligent man, who stood next me in the crowd of spectators, that, with respect to impeachments of this nature, the legislative bodies had about a fort- night ago abolished the trial by jury. The French have certainly very crude notions on the subject of criminal law. On our entrance into the court we found the judge busily employed in interro- gating the prisoner, a mode of procedure which opens a wide door for the intro- duction of villainous artifice and juridical oppression. After the interrogation was ended, the public accuser, habited in a 92 black gown, examined the witnesses for the prosecution, and commented upon their evidence. Then the counsel for the prisoner made a speech in his defence. When the pleadings were finished, the judges withdrew into an inner-chamber, wnence they soon returned into court with a verdict of guilty. Silence was then proclaimed, and the president pro- ceeded to sentence the prisoner to six years imprisonment in irons. From the criminal, we adjourned to one of the civil courts, where we heard an advocate pleading with wonderful gesticulation and noise, on the subject of a disputed ac- count, litigated by two partners in trade. This limb of the law, by his extravagant action, and by the stentorian exertion of his lungs, strongly recalled to my memory the mock-trial in the marriage of Figaro ; and the recollection was rendered still more vivid, when a huissier, with a " childish treble" voice, even and anon, squeaked out his authoritative cry of " silenee, ci toy ens.** In the evening our whole party drank tea at Miss Williams's, where we met. 9S among a variety of })leasing and intelli- gent characters, the late Vice-master of Malta, to whom the civil administration of that island had been delegated by- Bonaparte after its capture by the army destined for Egypt ; a Neapolitan bishop, who, having embraced the popular party, had been driven from his native country by the counter-revolution ; and Holcroft, the author of Anna St. Ives and Hugh Trevor. The conversation of such a party could not fail to be amusing. The evening of course passed very pleasantly. One of her guests having presented Miss Williams with tickets of admission to the National Institute, for Tuesday next, she was so good as to transfer one of them to me. Soon after breakfast, on Sunday July the 4th, I called on my old friend and fel- low-collegian Mr. T.S., who, having heard of my arrival in Paris, had yesterday left his card at our hotel. As ten years had elapsed since we had last met, we had many questions mutually to ask and an- swer ; and in the remembrances of for- mer times, in enquiries after the destiny 94 of our quondam companions, and the communication of the little adventures which we had experienced in France, time passed rapidly along. At twelve o'clock I took my leave and returned to the Hotel de Toscane, where I founa my party equipped for a ride to the Bois de Boulogne, the Hyde Paik of Paris, where the fashionables of both sexes display their equipages and their horsemanship. I presume we were too early in our ap- pearance in this place of gay resort, as we met with very few equestrians, and still fewer carriages. I did not, however, much regret the absence of the crowd ; the beauty of the verdure which enlivened the trees of the forest, and the freshness of the country air, afforded a delightful contrast to the stone walls and empoi- soned heat of Paris ; and the paucity of visitors gave the scenery a much more rural appearance than it would otherwise have possessed. We drove through the wood, which is, perhaps, two miles in ex- tent, and alighted from our voiture at a beautiful house called Bagatelle. This channing place, which formerly belonged 93 to the Count d'Artois, has, since the Revohition, been converted into a kind of inn, or tea-garden. It consists of a small, but very neat mansion, beyond which is an elegant pavilion, furnished with a billiard-table and other instru- ments of amusement. The grounds are narrow in extent, but they are laid out with considerable taste, in winding walks bordered with trees and shrubs. These walks are, in various places, intersected by a rivulet, over which are thrown a number of rustic bridges, which har- monize well with the surrounding scenery. In the middle of the grounds is an arti- ficial mount, which is elevated to such a height as to command an extensive pros- pect over the circumjacent country. At Bagatelle we had a dejeune of fricaseed chickens, which, I think, would have compelled the most fastidious traveller to do justice to French cookery ; and as to the champagne, it sparkled with a viva- cious potency sufficient to charm and subdue even the anti-GalHcan spirit of a Windham. In the evening we went to Tivoli, a 96 place of public amusement situated at the extremity of the city. After purchasing our tickets at the gate, we ascended to an elevated terrace, which conducted us to a large garden. Here we found a vast concourse of people engaged in such fri- volous amusements, that I could almost have imagined myself on a sudden trans- ported to one of the lowest of our English fairs. A number of elderly and genteelly dressed people were riding on round- abouts ; — many hundred couples were arranged on the grass-plots playing at bat- tle-dore and shuttle-cock ; — others were balancing each other on boards, which moved on a center ; — a large crowd was enjoying thegrimacesof a Merry- Andrew; — some bold adventurers were attempt- ing to proceed along a pair of ropes at- tached to the bases of two triangles, by grasping a third rope extended from ver- tex to vertex, the whole being so nicely balanced on pivots inserted into two frames about four yards distant from each other, that tlie least deviation from the equi- librium caused the machine to turn round, and the adventurer fell to the ground, to 97 the great amusement of the spectators. In the middle of the garden there was a platform, where about two hundred peo- ple were dancing to the music of a large band. I was greatly astonished with the gravity of the French dances : a gravity which, indeed, amounted to stupidity. The German waltz, as performed by the practitioners of Tivoli, was so far from an- swering the description given of it by Werter, that it excited no emotion in my mind but that of ridicule, Monday, July 5th. As we had de- termined to leave Paris on Thursday next, we thought it high time to make further enquiries about the affair of passports. For this purpose Mr. R. and I went to the prsefecture of the police. Here we found a considerable number of people waiting in an anti-chamber for their turn of audience, and were, of course, obliged to submit to the general regulation ; though I must observe that one of the centinels stationed in the room to keep order, observing that we ivere strangers, seemed disposed to give us an earlier admission into the office than was com- H 98 patible with the strictness of the law of equality. Being at length introduced into the inner apartment, I explained our 'business to one of the clerks, who asked us for the passports which we had received from Mr. Otto. We informed him that we had, at the requisition of Mr. Mengaud, left them in that gentleman's office at Calais. He then directed us to apply to another clerk, to enquire whether they were transmitted to the praefecture. This gentleman, after looking twice or thrice over a heap of papers, and examining an index, declared that they were not yet arrived, and intimated to us, that till they were received we could not possibly obtain passports to return, from the praefect of the police. On our asking him what steps we must take to free ourselves from an embarrassment, which, I observed, was not occasioned by our own fault, but by the negligence of Mengaud, he advised us to apply at the office of the minister of police ; but on my asking what could be done for us there, he turned abruptly away, and entered upon the business of another per- 99 son. With no very pleasant sensations we went to ask the advice of Mons. Perregeaux, who reheved us from a good deal of uneasiness, by informing us, that as we were in possession of Lord Hawkes- bury*s passport, we had fortunately nothing to do with the praefecture of the police, the proceedings of which office were so intricate, that we might possibly be detained ten days or a fortnight ; and that nothing more was necessary than to get our English passport countersigned by Mons. Talleyrand. I accordingly sent to the office of foreign affairs the passport in question, inclosed in a not6, requesting Mons, T. to affix the necessary signature. When I had dispatched this note, I went to renew my labours in the National Li- brary, where I continued till two o'clock. From two to four I enjoyed a pleasant lounge in the gallery of the Louvre. In the evening we were gratified by the com- pany of Mr. Holcroft, whose conversation indicated much shrewdness of remark, and an amiable spirit of candour, which the general strain of his writings had not led me* to expect. H 2 100 In the morning of Tuesday, July the 6th, I spent three hours at the National Library. After taking an early dinner, Mr. R. accompanied me to the National Institute. The hall in which this society assembles, is a noble apartment, the sides of which are ornamented with two beautiful colonnades of fluted pillars of the Corinthian order. Between the columns are placed marble statues of celebrated French statesmen and war- riors. In the middle of the hall a kind of area is railed off for the accommodation of the members. Between this rail and the wall are several rows of benches, which on our entrance we found so much crowded by spectators, that we experien- ced no small difficulty in procuring seats. Wliile we were waiting for the commence- ment of the business of the day, I had leisure to take a survey of the company, among whom my attention was particu- larly directed to the famous Abdallah Menou, who sat near the president's chair. In the fat stupidity of this war- rior's countenance, I thought I could discern a sufficient cause of the expulsion 6 101 of the French from Egypt. Whilst 1 was meditating on the wonderful scenes which the army of Egypt had witnessed, the members of the Institute entered the hall. Their costume was very odd. — It consisted of a dark green coat, richly embroidered with light green lace, a yellow waistcoat, and green breeches. This attire gave them the appearance of a company of respectable old English butlers. The president having opened the sitting by a short speech, the cele- brated Lalande mounted the tribune, and read a memoir of certain astronomi- cal observations, which, though I am morally certain not one of his auditors could understand it, was received with thundering plaudits. He was succeeded by other sgavans, who read their papers like so many school-boys. So rapid aird indistinct was their pronunciation, that I soon found myself incapable of following the thread of their discourses ; and their enunciation was so monotonous, that it at length lulled me into a kind of gentle slumber, which was only interrupted by the applauses that followed the H 3 102 termination of each memoir. In short I found the proceedings of the National Institute as tedious as those of the Royal Society of London ; and I was heartily glad to escape from an assem- blage which, in my opinion, was charge- able with a profusiye waste of time. For what benefit can be derived from the hearing of mathematical calculations, the detail of chemical experiments, and long series of profound argumentation, the comprehension of which can only be the result of patient study in the retirement of the closet ? The wight who can satis- factorily decide whether it is more irk- some to listen to an incomprehensible oration, or to harangue a listless and in- attentive multitude, may solve the ques- tion, whether the orators or the auditors of the above-mentioned learned bodies are doomed to the more disagreeable task? The ennui which I experienced at the National Institute served, however, to give addional interest to Miss Williams's assembly, to which the whole of our party repaired at eight o'clock in tlie 103 evening. Here we had the pleasure of meeting my friend S. and his wife and sister, and Casti the ci-devant poet-lau- reat to the Emperor of Germany. In the course of the evening, a gentleman, who is reputed one of the best readers in Paris, recited two poems of his own composition, which were of course re- ceived with great applause. This gen- tleman's voice was deep and melodious, and his enunciation was so distinct, that I could with ease understand every line of his recitation. Whilst I was at the National Library this morning, Mr.R. called at Talley- rand's office, and was informed by his secretary that it was necessary that Mr, Merry should verify Lord Hawkesbury's signature affixed to tlic passport which I had transmitted for Talleyrand's counter- signature, for which purpose he would take care to send it to the British pleni- potentiary's hotel, and that we might expect to receive it to-morrow. Wednesday July 7th. As it would have been regarded as a kind of high- treason against laudable curiosity, not to H 4 104 avail ourselves of the facility which we enjoyed of visiting Versailles, we resolved to dedicate this day to an inspection of that celebrated residence of the ancient court of France. We accordingly got into our voiture at half past eight o*clock, and driving through the Champs Elysees we quickly passed the barriers of Paris. The road to Versailles is the most plea- sant in the en\'irons of the capital. The first half of it extends along, the banks of the Seine, which presents an ever chang- ing succession of beautiful situations which are occupied by elegant houses. Passing through St. Cloud, the famous scene of Bonaparte*s dissolution of the le- gislative assembly, and Sevres, renowned for its manufactory of porcelain, we ar- rived at Versailles at about half past ten o'clock. After taking breakfast at a handsome and well-regulated hotel, which is situated near the entrance of the Royal Gardens, we walked to the palace. Our guide first conducted us by the outside of the right wing to the marble court, which is composed of that part of the chateau which was erected by its founder Louis 105 XIII. Here was pointed out to us the stair-case by which the mob which had repaired from Paris to Versailles on the 5th October 1789, ascended, with the intention of murdering the Queen, who had barely time to flee, almost naked, into the apartmei^t of the King. Over the principal gateway, in the front, is the balcony where on that di*eadful day Louis XVI., accompanied by his family, pre- sented himself to the infuriate populace, who, in savage triumph, dragged him to his agitated capital, whence he was fated never to return. From the marble court we proceeded to the library, which oc- cupied a suite of elegant apartments for- merly appropriated to the transaction of state affairs. In reference to their ancient use, each of these apartments is named after some political division of Europe, and is adorned with perspective views of the principal cities of those divisions. As we found many people engaged in reading and making extracts from the books con- tained in the library, I presume it is open to the public. When the person who conducted us through this part of the 106 palace was about to take his leave of us, he assumed an air of great mystery, and imlocking a receptacle which looked like a small coffin, he produced a folio bound in red morocco, which, on inspection, we found to contain portraits of the late King and Queen of France. From the library we were couducted to' an exten- sive range of buildings, which has of late years been converted into a manu- factory of arms. Mr. R. was of opinion, that the specimens of art which are here exhibited, are by no means equal, in point of neatness and finish, to the ma- nufactures of Birmingham. Leaving the armoury, we followed our conductor to the first court of the palace, several apartments on the north side of which are allotted to the central school of the department. Here we were much gra- tified by examining a very good col- lection of philosophical instruments. The person who acted as our cicerone in this division of the palace, was a huge overgrown clumsy fellow, whose soul seemed to be smothered in the unwieldi- ness of his carcase. Greatly, therefore. 107 was I surprized to find, that he too had tender recollections of the days of royal magnificence. That this was the fact, was evinced by the following incident. When he had shewn us the philosophical apparatus, he pointed, with a most sig- nificant look, to two sorry engravings of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, which were hung up in a corner of the room ; and on my saying, *' I suppose. Sir, you had a great regard for that lady," he shrugged up his shouldiers, summoned into his countenance the deepest expres- sion of woe, and sighing, said, *' Out, Monsieur — en la perdant j*ai perdu tout mon bonheur" From this sentimental showman-we ^vere transferred to a female royalist, who conducted us into an apart- ment in which several portraits of the late reigning family are kept with a kind of superstitious care. Among these the most interesting was a group con- sisting of Marie Antoinette, the Dau- phiness, and the Dauphin. A young lady was employed in copying the portrait of the Dauphiness, who is now married to the Duke d'Angouleme. While these 108 tndications of attachment to the Bour- bons mark the sentiments of such of the inhabitants of Versailles as have suffered worldly loss in consequence of the down- fall of royalty, their venturing to display their feelings is a proof of the strength of Bonaparte's government. Weakness is vigilant, suspicious, and severe. In the days of Robespierre, a sentiment of attachment to the house of Capet must have been cautiously repressed, or com- municated ** in dreadful secrecy.** After we had contemplated these relics of roy- alty, we visited the state-apartments. These consist of the salon d*Hercule — the salle de PAbondance — the salon de Diane — the salon de Mars — the salon de Mercure — and the salon de la Gverre, To enable ourselves to particularise the decorations of these magnificent apart- ments, would have required a minute- ness of examination which we could not possibly bestow. I can therefore only say, that I was astonished by their splendour. But the impression made upon the mind of the traveller by this suite of rooms is instantly forgotten, when 109 he enters the grand gallery. This truly superb vista extends to the length of two hundred and twenty-two feet. It is thirty feet in breadth, and thirty, seven in height. It is lighted by seventeen large windows, the pannels opposite to which are lined with plate glass. The roof is richly ornamented with paintings, descriptive of the most glorious events of the reign of Louis XIV. In this gallery are arranged a rich abundance of pictures of the French school, among which I was highly gratified to see the famous portrait of Madame la Valiere by Le Brun. It is terminated by a handsome apartment, called the salon de la Paia:, Returning through the gallery and the other state- apartments, we were conducted to the Hall of the Opera ; which, though shorn of its splendor, the superb decorations by which it was once adorned being either destroyed or sold, filled us with surprize by its extent. We passed from the salle de rOpera to the chapel, which is a su- perb monument of the piety and magnifi- cence of Louis XIV. 110 Having now seen what is usually shewn to strangers in the inside of the palace, we were attended by our guide into the gar- dens, which are, I suppose, the best ex- isting specimen of the ancient style. The disgusting uniformity of terraces and of parallel close-clipt hedges is, however, by no means compensated by the gran- deur of the tout ensemble^ or by the de- corations of the fountains and cascades. In celebrating these gardens in such glow- ing terms, in his beautiful poem Les Jar- dins, the Abbe de Lille appears to me to prostitute his muse, and to merge the poet in the courtier. The orangerie is a stupendous edifice crowded with trees, some of which were conveyed to France in the reign of Francis I. The flowers, which were in full blow, diffused a most grateful odour ; but the beauty of the trees themselves is totally destroyed by the mathematical precision with which they are rounded and squared by the sheers. As I contemplated this degrada- tion, I feelingly recollected those happy lines of De Lille : Ill ** Mais les ciseaax cruels. — Prevenez ce-forfait, Nymphes des bois, courez. Que dis-je ? e'en est fait. Li'acier a retranche leiir cime verdoyante, Je n'entends plus au loin, sur leur tftte, ondoy- ante, Le rapide aquilon, legerement courir, Fremir dans leurs rameaux, s'eloigner, et mourir. Froids, monotones, morts, du fer qui les mutile, lis semblent avoir pris la froideur immobile." After we had made the tour of the gardens, we walked through an avenue of tall trees to the great Trianon, a hunting seat, constructed by Mansard, the favourite architect of Louis XIV. Trianon, which is only one story in height, consists of two wings, terminated by pavilions, and united by a colonnade, composed of twenty pillars of the Ionic order. The weeds which overspread the court, and the shattered state of the windows, indicate that this edifice is neglected and falling to decay. From the greater we walked to the lesser Trianon, the favourite retirement of the unfortunate Marie Antoinette. This beautiful edifice is a square of seventy-two feet, the four fronts of which 112 exhibit so many different specimens of architecture. The gardens are divided into two compartments, the one of which is laid out in the French, and the other in the English style. The former of these compartments is orna- mented by an orangery, a music gallery, and a most elegant pavilion, lined with mirrors, and paved with marble. The Jar(Un Anglois is laid out with exquisite taste. Here we passed through shady walks, which wind about gentle declivi- ties, till we reached a grotto, from which a short subterraneous passage conducted us to the top of an artificial mount. Descending from this, we pursued the course of a narrow streamlet, till we arrived at the Hameau, which consists of a farm house, a *mill, and a church, all constructed in the true style of elegant rusticity, enveloped in trees and almost covered with ivy, vines, woodbines, and other species of climbing plants. Before the Hameau is a pool of water, fringed with reeds and bull-rushes. Beyond this is a gently sloping lawn ; and the view is terminated by the trees which conceal the 113 Avinding walks. What must have been the sensations of the late owner of this charming retreat, when she contrasted the voluptuous days which she had spent in its seductive seclusion, with the terri- fying solitude of the Temple, and the fetid dungeon of the Bicetre ? Evils are certainly heightened by contrast ; and though a king is but a man, and a queen a very woman, yet the woes of Royalty must be attended with an anguish pe- culiar to themselves. The pleasure which 1 experienced in contemplating the de- licious scenery of the Petit Trianon, was intermixed with these serious re- flections. I left its shades, however, with reluctance. The day was far ad- vancing, and we returned to Versailles, where we gladly partook of a comfortable dinner. — The fresh air which we had breathed in the course of this day's ex- cursion, and the neatness which reigned in the spacious streets of Versailles, formed a striking contrast with the heat and slovenliness of Paris, to which we returned at eight o'clock in the evening. When our voiture arrived in the Place de 114 la Concorde I alighted, and went to bathe at the Bains \^igier. These are a series ot' small bathing rooms, construct- ed in a large hidk, wliich is moored in the Seine, opj>osite to the Louvre. Here I was accommodated with a warm bath, which I found deliciously refreshing, and tor the use of Avhich I paid six-pence English money. Round the deck of this vessel extends a kind of j)romenade skirted by myrtles, rose-trees, and other shrubs, planted in flower-j)ots, which have a very pleasing effect. When I arrived at the Hotel de Toscane, I was chagrineil to find that our passport was not arrived. On Thursday morning, July 8th, Mr.K. and I took a most toilsome walk, of a mile in extent, to Mons. Talleyrand's office, where. Oft our enquiring what had occa- sioned the delay of the passport, we were informed, that it had been sent to Mr. Mer- ry, in order that he might verify the signa- ture of Lord Hawkesbury, and that it was not yet returned to Mons. Talleyrand's se- cretary. On this we were obliged to walk» in the midst of a burning heat, another 11,) long mile, to tlie British MiiiistcPs liotelj where Mr. Merry's scribe received us very cavaHerly, and expressed his high dis- pleasure at our differing from him in opinion, in thinking it advisable to get our passport coimtcrsigncd by the French Minister. Pie, l)owever, returned it to us, backed by the requisite attestation — fipitefullyremarking, itt the same time, that after all, perhaps, we should be obliged again to apply to Mr. Merry, who alone, lie said, had authority to grant passports to return to Euijland. If that be the case, I observed, we have paid my Lord Hawkesbury 2I. 4s. 6d. ta very little pur- pose. I was persuaded, however, that Mr. Secretary's remark was only intended to alarm us; so I shook off the dust of my feet against him, and posted back to M. Talleyrand's office. The French secre- tary said he would get the passport signed and Sealed as soon as possible ; but ob- served that Talleyrand was out of town, and that we should in all probability be obliged to wait three days longer. On my attempting to remonstrate with him on the inconvenience^ to which we shoidd be 116 Rubjected by this delay, he observed, that the delay did not originate in his office, but in that of our own minister. This I could not deny; but continued to enlarge upon our grievances, till, per- haps, in order to get rid of my importu- nity, he said he would endeavour to get our business finished against to-morrow morning. Mr. R. and I then made our bow, but as I was leaving the office I recollected Mons. Talleyrand's trans- action with X. Y. and the American ambassadors, and I began to suspect that if we might rely upon the old adage of like master like man, we might profit by the barefaced declaration of the episcopal minister, " il faut de V argent, beaucoup d^argent." — I accordingly returned to the desk; and observing that we had occasioned the office much trouble, which in England we were always obliged to acknowledge in a pecuniary way, I de- posited a Louis d'or on the seal of our passport, which lay open in the midst of a heap of papers. At the sight of this glittering stimulant Monsieur le Greffier bowed, and saying that he would take 117 care to give it to the gardens de bureau^ he opened a drawer into which he threw it with a jerk, which I thought (but of course I may have been mistaken) indi- cated the promptitude of habit. How much of this premium the gar^ons de bu- reau received, I had of course no oppor- tunity of ascertaining. This I weU remem- ber, that after the secretary had under^ taken to distribute this little present, he spoke with much more confidence of our receiving our passport to-moiTow ; and when we took our final departure, he said, we did not need give ourselves the trouble of calling again at the office, as he would send it to the Hotel de Toscane, at ten in the morning. 1 w^as so much chagrined and^ fatigued by the business of this morning, that on my return to our hotel, I was glad to repose on the bed till evening, when I so far recovered my strength and spirits as to be able to attend my party to Tivoli, where we had the pleasure of meeting Mr. and Mrs. S. The CO nrtpany t«^hich 'appeared here this e^riirig^ were hiuch better dressed and ihbi^ genteel inthdi* general appearance I 3 H8 than those wliicli we had seen on Sunday j but tliey were entertained by the same ridiculous anniseinents. The diversion oi the night concluded by a grand dis- play of fire- works. On Friday morning, July tlie 9th, at ten o'clock, oui* passport arrived accord- ing to the promise of Mons. Talleyrand's secretar)'. The requisite prc})arations opcupied us. for three hours; an^lat pno o'clock we left the Hotel de Toscane, and passing the barriers without (luestioxi or examination, proceeded to St. Denis. As the weather was vj^ry hpt, and Mr,U. w^s ppt quite well, in lieu of a bidpt wq h^ provided a return cabriole, for the \ise of which as far as Calais we paid four Louis d*ors. At St. Denis we had a vio- lent altercation with our postilions, who ^empted to client us \ but we treated t^em so very cavalierjy, th^t th^y found themselves losers l)y tlieir ingfnui^y j a>i)4 perhj^ps the stormy natureiof^quf ,tir^p^ cuniary s^tUcm^nt pfoc^j<i^ip^rp>eyfft' ^t least we h^d no ftirt^He? !:rqi44p wi^l^it^ IjEQights of the ja^-h9ff^. :fh^ei^^v,e^^igi 119 we found excellent accommodations at the i)ost-hoiise of Cliantilly. Early on vSaturday morning we j)roceeded on our journey, during which we did not meet with any remarkable incident. We got a hasty dinner at Amiens, and took up our quarters for the night at Abbe- ville. On Suntlay afternoon about six o'clock we arrived at Boulogne, and drove to tlie Hotel d'Angleterre, an excellent inn kept by an Englishman of the name of Parker. Whilst our supper was pre- paring, we walked down to the pier to view the scene of Lord Nelson's attack upon the gun-boats, which were moored in the inside and on the outside of the harbour. From the observations which I made of the position of the attacking and defending force, I can hardly con- ceive of a more rash undertaking. The entrance into the port was defended by a fort, a battery on the pier, and by can- non placed tier above tier, on the hills, which extend in the form of a semicircle on the east of the scene of action. Two or three soldiers whom I questioned on I 4 120 the subject, agreed in declaring, that it was impossible for the English to make any impression on the line of defence ; and our landlord, Mr. Parker, stoutly asserted that the gun-boats, which it was , Lord Nelson's object to destroy or to carry away, were nothing but a fleet of fishing smacks. . . t Early on Monday morning we ascended our vehicles, and after a very pleasant ride we breakfasted at Calais. Here we took a passage in a packet commanded by a Captain Hedde, who engaged to set sail at eight o'clock in the evening. In the course of the morning, while our passport was lying for examination at Mengaud's office, I strolled through the greater part of the town, and minutely examined the exterior of the great church. This spacious and handsome Gothic structure, erected by the English, pre- sented a melancholy picture of neglect and dilapidation. Every pane of glas^ in its windows was broken ; atid th^ nettles and weeds' ^vhich^ grew in ratik •luxuriance at every door,' sufficiently in- dicated that fori several years past no 121 Avorshippers had troubled its precincts. Having obtained our permit to depart, we embarked at eight o'clock, and sailed out of the harbour with a light but favourable breeze. Our fellow-voyagers wer6 not numerous, and consisted prin- cipally of a troop of comedians, whom Mr. Astley had engaged in Paris to give additional attraction to his amphitheatre. Each of these sons of Thespis was ac- companied by his dog. I asked one of them whether they had procured pass- ports for their canine associates. — " Out, Monsieur i'' answered he, " bieri vises et signes avec une description exacte de leiirs visages." This witty stroller, eye- ing me for some time after this con- versation, asked me whether I had not been once confined in the same apart- ment with himself in the prison of the Temple. I assured him that I never had that honour ; on which he observed, that a person very like me, an Anglo-Ame- rican, had been for some weeks his fel- low-prisoner. I asked him for what rea- son he had been kept in custody?-^ V2'J «* C'cioit pour uiic affaire cVdiat^^* re- plied he with an air of no small conse- quence, " ./Vi etc suspect par Rol)eS' pietre." At ten o*clock at night the light hreeze which had taken us out of the har- bour of Calais totally died away, and our vessel lay almost motionless in the water. AVeary with watching the flagging sails, and the moon-beams playing on the sur^ f^e of the channel, I went to bed about eleven o'clock. Soon ixt'ier our embarka- tion, Mrs.8. andMr.R. had been obliged by sea-sickness to retire to tiieir beds, where I now found them in a state of woeful sufferance. Having secured a vacant nest, 1 turned in, and with little interruption slept till live o'clock in the morning ; I then rose and re- paired on deck, where great was my mortification, on looking from the stern, to behold the coast of France. My pa- tience began to be rapidly exhausted, and I felt doubts of the skill of our navi- gators ; but about seven the wind began tf> iVeshen, and at ten we were greeted by the dock-master ol" Dover, with a 123 G— d d — 11 your soal to liell. Soon after the occurrence of this symptoni of English urbanity, which I observed was highly amusing to our French comedians, who, no doubt, w^ere re- minded by it of the speech of the bride- groom in the marriage of Figaro, we landed in the midst of no small bustle, and went to the Ship inn. Soon after I had breakfasted, I set of!' in a post-chaise for London, in company with a gentle- man who had that morning arrived from l^rance by way of Boulogne. At one o'clock in the ensuing night I was set down at the York hotel in Bridge-Street, where I engaged lodgings for my j)arty, who arrived in London on Wednesday morning. We staid in London till the Monday following, when we set off for Lancashire, resuming our first arrange- ment of travelling ; that is to say, Mr. R. and I alternately riding post-horses. Taking the route of Oxford, where we sle])t on Monday night, we arrived at Bostock-hall on W'ednesday evening, at supper-time. Plere our travelling part- 124 nersliip was dissolved ; for on Thursday the rest of the party leaving me to spend a few days with Mr. France, set off for Gateacre, where they arrived in safety, and whither I followed them at the end of a week. END OF PART I. I :U=-:i !■':;■• ' ? • . /' 'i.,;:-i'»!i ■' i' i.f;iit - /.!/i} 'Ij.-^ .JiiL.-i Jm'.;. PARIS, IN 1802 and 1814. PART II. TN consequence of the renewal of a san- guinary war, which threatened the re- vival of the ages of barbarism, the English had for a long series of years been excluded from France, and indeed from almost the whole of the continent of Europe. During this period, the press had been so decidedly enslaved by the tyranny of Bonaparte, that little could be ascertained with regard to the actual circumstances of the French nation. It appeared, however, to be an indisputable fact, that amidst the change of property, and the wreck of private interests, which had marked the progress of hostilities, 126 the citv of Paris liad been the constant siibject of tlie solicitude of the Emperor Napoleon. Every annual expose of the state of the dominions subject to the sway of that extraordinary man, made mention of new projects for the tnnbel- lislnnent of the capital ; and year aftoi' year was reported, the transfer, from con- quered countries into its precincts, of ad- ditional works of painting and sculpture, and of curiosities of every description. Paris might therefore be justly considered as the depot of the Hue arts, as the vast magazine of those productions of tran- scendant genius, which had survived the lapse of ages, and whose loss, should such a circumstance unibrtunately take place, would be irreparable. M'hen therefore in- telligence arrived in England of the near approach of the allied armies to the walls of that city, I fielt (and I am not ashamed to confess it) no small degree of uneasi.* ncss in the apprehension, that by the ob- stinacy of resistance it nnght be exposed to the horrors, which, even in modern times, await towns taken by storm ; and that the works of the ancient masters on 127 wliidi 1 had so frequently gazed with un- diminished astonishment, woidd be laid waste and destroyed. From tliis apprehen- sion tlie lovers of the arts were relieved, by the prudent magnanimity of the Allied Sovereigns ; and though I was surprized, ijpon the principle of selfishness I was not displeased at the arrangement, whicit })ermitted the French nation to retain these monnments of successful warfare, and tasteful rapine. To an Englishman who can avail himself of periods of only moderate leisure, Paris is easy accessible — but a long space of time is necessary to enable the traveller to pursue the tract of arts from Schoenbrun to Monte di Capa — from Vienna to Naples. Still fearing that, by some secret or sub- sequent agreement between Louis XVIII. and the Allied Powers, a proportion, at least, of the treasures of literature and art, which had been accumulated in Paris, might be withdrawn, I determined to avail myself of the first opportiniity which occurred after the signature of the treaty of peace between England and France^ to repeat my visit to Paris ; and once 128 more to gratify myself by the contempla-' tion of those breathing forms, the pro- duce of the chisel and the pencil, which had twelve years ago given me so much delight ; and by the examination of those stores of erudition contained in the Na- tional, or, to speak in the dialect of the day, of the Royal Library, which were calculated to afford the most minute in- formation, relative to the object of my habitual attention, the revival of letters in Europe. These were the primary ob- jects of my projected journey ; but it was my purpose not to neglect any opportu- nity which might occur, of making in- quiries into the condition and circum- stances of the people of France ; and of marking the tone and temper of mind with which they bore their sudden transi- tion from the pride of victory and con- quest to the humiliation of disaster and defeat, terminating in the occupation of their capital by their enemies, and the change of their government. Report spoke loudly of peril in my projected excursion ; but I knew too well the fal- lacy of report to be deterred from my 129 purpose. I was morally certain, that the Allies would not have withdrawn their troops from the French territory had there been any likelihood of a revolution in favour of Napoleon ; and, though I was well aware of the probability that English- men would not be super-abundantly po- pular in France, I had sufficient confi- dence in my own discretion, to be free from any apprehension of being involved in unpleasant altercations. Had I been so inclined, I could, I be- lieve, have accumulated a large company of travelling companions ; but, even in an English tour, a numerous party is sub- ject to great inconvenience ; and this I knew to be much more likely to be the case on the continent. I therefore re- stricted myself to one, of whose steadi- ness, good temper, and ability, a long and strict intimacy had given me the fullest assurance. In company with Mr. A. Y., then, I left Liverpool, on the morning of Sa- turday, June 1 8, 1814; and, without any memorable occurrence on the road, on the evening of the ensuing day K 130 we arrived in London. On making en- quiries with respect to the requisite pjiss- ports, we were informed that one from Lord Castlereagh was absolutely neces- sary ; and that, in order to obtain it, we must present, at the Treasury, a letter of recommendation. After losing some pre , cious time in seeking for a man of suffi- cient note to sign our testimonials, we proceeded to Downing-street, and were directed to call for our passport the next day. On repeating our visit, we were accordingly furnished with a shewy docu- ment, signed by the minister for foreign affairs and adorned with an elegant en- graving of his coat of arms. For this we paid the sum of 2I. 7s., besides a fee to the porter. This was money absolutely thrown away : as we soon found that the pass- port was not of the slightest use. From the Treasury we went to the residence of the Duke de Chatres, the French envoy ; who, though we were not furnished with letters of recommendation, received us with great politeness, and, at our request, gave us a passport. I say emphatically, gave us one, as we did not pay for it a 131 single sous, either to the envoy or to any of his clerks. On Wednesday, June 22, we took coach (or Brighton ; and, after a pleasant jour- ney through an interesting tract of coun- try,, we arrived at that town at about eight o'clock in the evening. We took up our residence at the Old Ship, where we were fortunate enough to find very com- fortable accommodations. On enquiring, however, at what time a vessel would sail for Dieppe, we were not a little mor- tified to receive information, that all the packets were gone with company to the great naval review, which was to take place on the ensuing day at Ports- mouth, in honour of the Emperor Alex- ander and the King of Prussia ; and that there was not the slightest probability of our being able to sail before Saturday. On the receipt , of this unpleasant in- telligence, I comforted myself by my frequent experience, that the first infor- mation received at a small sea-port, with regard to the arrival or departure of ves- sels, is generally false ; and after ascertain- ing the fact that many passengers were K 2 132 waiting for a conveyance to the French coast, I retired to rest, in the full per- suasion tliat in the morning we should hear of something to our advantage. My persuasion was well founded. Early on the 23d, I was awaked by the wel- come tidings that a packet was arrived in the course of the night, and would weigh anchor for Dieppe soon after ten o'clock. Mr. Y. and I immediately engaged two births, for which we paid two guineas each J and after taking a hearty break- fast we passed our baggage at the Cus- tom-house, where we experienced no- thing but civiHty ; and afterwards depo- sited it in a shallop, in which the passen- gers were to be conveyed to the packet- boat : for the strand of Brighton being unprovided with a jetty, and the beach shelving gradually, vessels of even light burthen- are obliged to anchor at some distance from the shore. As I was aware from the position of the shallop, which lay high up upon the strand, that we could not sail at the hour indicated, I took a walk into the town, on which I sliall only remark, tliat, great indeed 133 must be the attractions of bathing and sea- air to induce persons of fortune to quit their toomy mansions, and occupy the petty cribs which I saw ticketed as lodg- ing houses. On my return to the water- side, I was accosted in the French lan- guage by a well-looking gentleman, who, after enquiring whether I was going over the water, announced himself as a Parisian, and an officer of the national guard. He was just returned from London, on his way home, and complained most bitterly of the rudeness of the inhabitants of that city : and indeed, if his representations were true, he did not complain without reason. He said, that when he went into a coffee-house for refreshment, if, as was often the case, the waiter could not understand his attempts at speaking Eng- lish, the company, instead of rendering him any assistance, amused themselves by laughing at his embarrasment. His wife, too, had unfortunately made her appear- ance in the street in a large Parisian hat, and had been followed and insulted by a mob. He had witnessed with surprise and disgust the familiar approaches of K 3 134 the populace to the Sovereigns who had lately visited the English metropolis. But what had affected him with the greatest astonishment was, that, at the Review in Hyde Park, tlie spectators had " actually pressed upon the soldiers who kept the ground." Rudeness to a lady, however strange her dress, I could not possibly defend : but I endeavoured to convince my Parisian, that familiarity with monarchs, and elbowing a body of military police, were the natural effects of that general spirit of freedom, which, though it may be occasionally inconveni- ent in some modes of its exertion, is still the legitimate subject of pride to the British nation. Into these ideas, how- ever, he could not enter. Nor was I sur- prized at this circumstance, when I found that he was an admirer of Bonaparte, and that he spoke with enthusiasm of the grandeur of the reviews which the Emperor was accustomed to hold in the Caiousel, and from any near approach to which the populace were stiictly ex- cluded. He had been engaged, he told me, in the defence of Paris, and assured 135 me, that had not Napoleon been betrayed by Marmont and Victor, he would have taken the whole of the allied armies prisoners! Whilst I was amusing myself with the credulity of my new acquaint- ance, we were summoned to the shallop, which was soon launched into the water. Here I found myself surrounded by a motley group of males and females, some wearing countenances of cheerfulness, and others of serious anxiety. High 6n the bow was a personage, whon>> from the habitual grin which broadened his phy- siognomy, and which was set off by the ordonnance of his travelling cap termi- nating in a couple of flaps much resem- bling ass*s ears, I took to be a travelling mountebank ; but afterwards found to be a priest who had been driven from his country during the reign of Robespierre, and was now, for the first time, returning to his native land. In about twenty minutes we arrived at the packet, when much discontent was excited by the pas- sengers being obliged to pay three shil- lings a head for their conveyance, — a charge which, as it had not been " nomi- K 4 136 nated in the bond** entered into witli our captain, many of my fellow-travellers were disposed to dispute. The sang- froid of the boatmen on the occasion evinced that tliey had been accustomed to the remonstrances which burst from all quarters of their vessel ; and in the so- vereignty of their authority, (foi: on the water a boatman is lord paramount,) they levied their tax with less difficulty than might have been antecedently expected. At about twelve o*clock we were all safely embarked, and weighed anchor with a fair gale. Soon after we lost sight of land, however, we were becalmed in view of five Russian men of war, who were steering for the straits of Dover. In this state of disagreeable expectancy our time was principally beguiled by the shrewd remarks and the merriment of the ecclesiastic, who occupied the top of the cabin stairs, and diluted all his cares, and heightened the effect of his jokes, by a jug of punch, which, as his spirits declined, he duly replenish- ed. Some variety was also afforded by divers political discussions which 137 took place between an English beneficed clergyman, and an operative weaver from Stockport. This latter was a very sturdy disputant, and alarmed and irritated his antagonist not a little by maintaining, that as the national debt of Britain was equal in value to all the landed property in the United Kingdom, and as it was fair and reasonable that each individual should bear his proportion of the said debt, the most equitable mode of paying it off, would be to make an equal division of all property ; a scheme for the execu- tion of which, he observed, the people in the town and neighbourhood of Stockport were fully ripe. At about ten, a stiff breeze arose, which laid us gunwale to, and speeded us at the rate of eight knots an hour. During all this time I kept the deck, on which, at two o'clock in the morning, I lay down with my port- manteau for my pillow : but did not sleep long, before I was awaked by the patter- ing upon my face of a heavy shower of rain, which drove me to the discomfort of the cabin, all the beds of which were occupied by women and children. At 138 four, however, we were summoned from our purgatory, by the arrival of a pilot boat, which, taking^us in tow, conducted us towards Dieppe. The entrance into the port of that city is formed by two fine jetties or moles, erected at the mouth of the river Arques, and projecting far into the sea. At low water the haibour is dry ; but we fortunately arrived at such a state of the tide, that we were enabled to sail right into the centre of the town, opposite to the Hotel du Paqueboty where Mr. Y. and myself took up our quarters. At that early hour crowds were ready to receive us ; and we instantly had occar sion to verify the description, which we had heard and read of the tall caps and short petticoats of the Dieppaises, which we found not to be at all exaggerated. After getting a comfortable breakfast, we sallied out and ascended the citadel, an an- cient edi^ce situated on a high eminence, which commands a fine view of the town, the sea, and the adjacent country. On my way thither, I saw four as interesting youths of the age of eighteen and nineteen as ever I beheld in my life, cloathed in the 139 uniforms of coi'porals and Serjeants. They were conscripts, and on my addressing them, they answered me with an ease and politeness, which indicated that they were of good families and well educated. They had served in the late bloody cam- paign, and unanimously confessed that they did not like the military profession, and that they wished to return to the bosom of their respective families. I trust that their wishes may, ere this, have been gratified. But had the reign of Napo- leon been prolonged, no fond remem- brances would have rescued them from the hardships and perils of a military life. Much eloquence has of late been employed in depicting the miseries dif- fused through the domestic circle by the unbounded ambition of that restless man. But the sight of these youths, lately torn from their homes to fight his battles, and even in the interval of peace, condemned to that alternation of fatigue and indo- lence, and to that low depravity of asso- ciation, which must in quarters be the lot of non-commissioned officers, affected my feelings more than the most splendid 140 oratory could have done. From the cita- del we went to the church of St. Jacques, where we found many people^ chiefly women^ assembled at early prayers. The nave of this churcli is very beautiful. The east window is composed of very fine an- cient painted glass, and the fret work on the outside is of singularly delicate work- manship. The great tower, constructed of white free-stone brought from Caen, is esteemed one of the handsomest struc- tures of the kind in France. On walking along the side aisles we were struck with the succession of chapels with which they are interspersed, and which are no less than twenty in number ; and many of them adorned with pictures of different degrees of merit. The church of St.Remi, which we next visited, is chiefly distinguished by the massive solidity of its pillars, and by the splendour of its altar-piece. The covings of the windows at the extremity of the choir had also a fine effect. At ten o'clock we went to hear mass, which was numerously frequented, as this hap- pened to be a great festival- day, kept in honour of St. John. The service was 6 141 more curious than impressive. A bad effect was produced by the lightness of the airs which were occasionally played on the organ ; and the perpetual passing of mere gazers tended much to do away the idea of devotion. The audience consisted, almost exclusively, of females, the va- riety of whose costume, and especially the intermixture of brilliant colours with white in their dress, was, upon the whole, very striking and handsome. Having arranged our business at the Douane^ and obtained the necessary en- dorsements of our passport, we took an early dinner, and at about half past twelve set off from Dieppe in a cabriolet, drawn by two horses. For the use of this ve- hicle as far as Rouen we paid no more than twenty-five francs, horses, driver, and the fo'od of both included. On quit- ting Dieppe we found the former part of the road excellent, the latter good, but paved. Our route lay through a delight- ful country, the prospect of which was variegated by many neat farm-houses, and a few chateaux. It was also ren- dered picturesque by a considerable 142 proportion of wood. The people were walking about in great chearfulness, and drest in their best attire in honour of StJohn. We remarked a vast superiority in the proportion of the number of wo- men to that of men, but as this circum- stance often occurs in holiday times in England, I should be cautious of attri- buting it to the waste of war. We stopped to bait at a small village called Totes. Here the landlady of the inn fell so violently in love with my portable knife and fork, a piece of Birmingham manufacture, for which I had given in England the sum of eighteen-pence, that she asked if 1 would sell it. I told her that I was neither a inarchand nor a nego- ciant, and begged her acceptance of it. This she politely declined, and I pro- mised to bring her one the next time I travelled that way. On several other occasions I have been requested in France to part with my penknife and scissars ; I presume, therefore, that our cutlery is superior to that of our neighbours. After taking coffee I walked into the village. Opposite the inn I saw a wounded sol- 143 dier, who was very lame, knocking at the door of a cottage, into which it ap- peared that he could not obtain admis- sion. Thinking he was begging his way home, in the first impulse of my feelings I went up to him with the intention of giving him money. But when I came near him, I found that he was a well-look- ing youth of eighteen, and evidently su- perior to the want of pecuniary aid. On my asking whether I could be of any as- sistance to him, he told me that the quar- ters assigned him on his halt (he was on his way to Dieppe) were in the cottage at which I had seen him knock ; but that its inhabitants were all gone out to enjoy the festivities on the village-green. He too was a conscript. He had been wound- ed, he said, at the siege of Antwerp, and had suflPered considerable pain ; but observed, tliat if his emperor was en- larged (Jlargi), he would again serve him as faithfully as he had done be- fore. Taking my leave of this enthusiast, I proceeded to the church, a mean -look- ing edifice, with a steeple cased in blue slate. In the adjoining public walk. 144 numbers of people were assembled playing at bowls and nine-pins, and at other vil- lage-games, but exhibiting no symptoms of drunkenness or riot. On the win- dows of the prasfect's house I remarked two or three notices or banns of marriage, by which 1 was apprised that matrimony is considered in France as a civil rather than as a religious contract. On return- ing to oiu" inn, and asking our hostess how she relished the late changes which had taken place in the government of the country, she observed, that the charac- ter of Louis could not be pronounced upon till it had been tried. This answer did not smack much of enthusiasm ; but it evinced a degree of good sense, which, if generaUy prevalent, would tend to the welfare of the community at large. Tlie most dangerous snare to monarchs is the idolatry of their subjects. I presume, however, that the inhabitants of Totes are no political idolaters : for the opinion of a hostess is generally the representa- tion of the sentiments of her guests. On leaving this village I, for the first time in my life, saw a child swathed to a board, U5 in the manner so eloquently deprecated by Rousseau. It wiis, indeed, a disa- greeable and painful spectacle, and drew from me a remonstrance which was only received with a smile of good-natured contempt. The road from Totes to Rouen is the most beautiful I ever travelled, and was rendered still more interesting by groups of peasants, who in every village were singing and dancing a la rondey in honour of the saint of the day. The approach to Rouen is delightful. Nature and art have combined to adorn the prospect. A country richly variegated with wood and water, hill and dale, is studded with chateaux, houses, and manufactories, giving the most decisive tokens of com- fort and affluence. The city is situated in a valley, watered by the Seine, which flows on the right hand j and the road into it is bordered by foot-walks, which extend into the country for upwards of a mile, and are shaded by rows of flou- rishing trees. The di'iver of our cabriolet was a boy of about thirteen years of age, who,^ on L 146 our arrival in Rouen, gave us a specimen of his early talents. At the barrier I di- rected him to take us to the Hotel de France, to which he dutifully assented. We had not proceeded far before he stopped at the gate of a large building, which he said was the place of our desti- nation, and a servant or two instantly pro- ceeded to unstrap our baggage. Though it was almost dark, and though I had never been at Rouen before, I suspected some roguery, and asked a gentleman who was passing by, whether that was the Hotel de France. " No," said he, *♦ it is the Hotel de la Marine.** With great difficulty 1 drove the myrmidons off our luggage, and compelled our postilion to proceed. Before he started, however, I observed the interchange of a glance between him and one of the waiters, which put me on my guard. He sacre- dieued and lashed his horses, and after passing what appeared to be a very in- tricate route, he again stopped ; and we were again surrounded by porters. On one of the most active of these I laid violent hands ; and again inquiring of a 147 passenger where we were, received for answer, " at the back front of the Hotel de la Marine." My patience was now exliausted. I tumbled the porter from off tlie luggage, and threatening ven- geance against our varlet of a driver, , once more forced him to proceed. He was now seriously frightened, and con- ducted us according to my directions. Being safely ai'rived, I alarmed him with the prospect of a good discipline with a horsewhip instead of his fee. At length, however, I paid him as if nothing un- toward had happened ; of which I im- mediately repented, as from the ill-dis- guised smile which took the place of terror on his countenance when he handled his iive franc piece, I am confident he would embrace the earliest opportunity of 're- peating his experiment upon the igno- rance of travellers. As we were a little fatigued, we retired to bed at an early hour* We did not, however, enjoy much repose. At about eleven o'clock a most noisy band of musical instruments struck up a concert j L 2 148 and with few and short intervals conti- nued playing almost all the night. I con- jectured it must be a military band, and that it was playing in honour of some fete either given or accepted by the national guards of Rouen. My travelling com- panion was of a different opinion ; and maintained that such a disturbance as we had experienced could only be occasioned by the thoughtless folly of one of our own countrymen. I was ashamed to find, upon inquiry, that he was in the right. An English baronet, travelling, I suppose, for improvement, — he had great need of it — had supped in state, and had drank Burgundy all night to the sound of horns, violins, and bassoons, which he had collected from ftU quarters of the town. Had I been aware of this fact at the time of the performance, I should have been violently inclined to disturb the harmony of the concert by a remon- strance J but " every thing is for the best, in this best of all possible worlds." My remonstrance would probably have been moit annoying to myself. At an inn, the 149 u\Mier ol" an equipage would have been a formidable antagonist to one who tra- velled in a sim})le cabriolet. After breakfast we went to call upon a Mr.M., a merchant of Rouen to whom Mr. Y. had a letter of introduction. We found him living in very good style, In the rrmise I observed two cjirriages ; and the rest of his establishment seemed to be upon a proportionate scale. He received us witli the utmost politeness, and entered freely into conversation ; in the course of which he remarked with ap- parent jocularity, but I think with real chagrin, upon the disposition of late years, manifested by the English, to monopolize all the trade of the world. He acknowledged that our exertions, du- ring a long series of hostilities, had been wonderful ; but gave it as his opinion, that we had arrived at the acme of our glory as a nation, and that our commer- cial prosperity would soon decline. He founded this opinion upon the circum- stance of the pressure of our national debt, which, he said, would keep up the price of labour in England, and enable 150 the French and other nations to compete with, and undersell us. In reply to him I endeavoured to maintain the position that supposing the continent of Europe flourished according to his prediction, that very circumstance would ultimately prove favourable to the English ; as a set of wealthy custojgiers was most desirable to a trading community; — that as to the rest, I relied much on the ingenuity of my countrymen, and the difficulty of removing staple manufactures from one place to another ; and with regard to the national debt, I had been so much accus- tomed at home, to hear sinister prognos- tics on that subject, that I really did not regard them. Lastly, I observed, that if we found that a state of peace was injurious to our commercial interests, though I should by no means vindicate such a principle of action, pretexts were never wanting for the kindling of war, to the commencement of which English- men were never adverse. Like doughty disputants we both remained unconvinced. But on one topic we cordially agreed, namely, in reprobating the article in the 1.51 treaty of Paris, which revived the African slave trade. This article, Mr. M. said, was not intended for the benefit of France; the French merchants had not sufficient capital to carry on the slave trade. It was inserted for the purpose of gratifying certain interests in England, which would soon, by means of the easy intercourse between the two countries, be deeply embarked in the abominable traffic. I hope this is one of those refinements in speculation, in which Frenchmen are so apt to indulge themselves. If Mr. M.*s remarks are founded in truth, every honest man will join, with aggravated indignation, in reprobating all parties concerned in an arrangement, calculated to give rise to so much wickedness and misery. Under the guidance of a young friend of Mr. M.*s we went to examine the town. We were first conducted to the church of the Hospice de VHumanite. This edifice is situated close to the re- ceptacle for the sick and wounded, from which it derives its name. It is of the Corinthian order of architecture, and is L 4 15'i much celebrated as the chef d^cetwre of an architect of the name of Lebru- ment. The dome is remarkably bold and light, and the choir and altar-piece are strikingly elegant. After all, however, I cannot yet reconcile my eye to Grecian churches. The solemnity of the Gothic appears to my feelings, much more con- sonant to the awe and dignity connected with religious emotions. My admiration of this latter style of architecture was amply gratified by the cathedral of Rouen, the grand entrance to which is one of the noblest specimens of the Norman Gothic I ever beheld. The inside is magnificently gloomy, the pillars being massy, and the windows dimmed by a profusion of richly painted glass. Behind the choir was pointed out to us the places where once stood the tomb of our King Richard I. and the monument of Rollo, the first Duke of Normandy. But during the delirium of revolutionary fury, these interesting me- morials of ancient times were destroyed ; and we were informed that the cathedral itself was saved only in consequence of lo3 its having been formally dedicated as the Temple of Reason. On our way from the church of the Hospice to the cathedral, we passed through a market-place, where we saw three malefactors, exposed on a scaffold, and tied to stakes, with chains round their necks, and labels over their heads denoting their crimes, and the punishment to which they had consequently been sentenced. The offence of which each had been guilty was burglary ; and one of them was condemned to hard labour for life, the other two for ten years. As far as exposure is intended to constitute a part of the penalty of the law, this mode of exhibition is preferable to the painful one of the pillory — and a few military at once served to guard the culprits, and to protect them from the mob, who, however, shewed no disposition to mo- lest shem. From the cathedral we w^ent to the neighbouring church of St.Ouen. This too is of Gothic architecture ; but is much more light and graceful than the cathedral. The altar-piece of marble is 154 particularly handsome. Over the great gate, and in the two extremities of the transverse window, are shewn three beau- tiful roses ; the two latter were executed in 1439, the one by Alexander lierneuil, and the other by one of his apprentices. A tradition has been handed down from sacristan to sacristan, that the workman- ship of the pupil being esteemed by con- noisseurs superior to that of the master, the latter was so maddened by envy that he murdered his competitor. We next repaired to the Hotel de Ville^ which contains, besides the requisite mu- nicipal offices, a library consisting of se- venty thousand volumes ; and a grand gallery, containing upwards of three hun- dred paintings. The major part of these were not of a class above mediocrity. One Raphael, a few Paul Veroneses, and two Salvator Rosas, however, are ex- cellent. From the Hotel de Ville we proceeded to the celebrated bridge thrown over the Seine, and formed of barges fastened upon piles let through their extremities, which rise and fall according to the state of the 155 tide. Tliis bridge is paved and bordered on each side with a footway ; — but, upon the whole, it is said to be more curious than convenient, and is kept up at a considerable expence. On returning to our hotel I called at a bookseller's shop, which I found very respectably furnished : — and as booksellers' shops af- ford a tolerable criterion of the encourage- ment given to literature, in their several localities, I should conclude, j[i'om this circumstance, that learning and science are by no means neglected in Rouen. After dinner we went to the theatre, a large handsome building, the boxes of which were crowded, principally by mili- tary officers. The pit, according to the fashion of old times, was unprovided with seats, a circumstance which gave the whole of the house an air of discomfort. The play of the evening w^as the Cinna of Corneille ; from which I expected much amusement, especially as it abounds in political sentiments, which I imagined would, by the mode of their reception, give an index of the present feelings of tlie French nation. But I was disap- 156 pointed. The acting was, upon the whole, wretcliedly bad, and the audience seemed to take no interest in the piece. The part of Cinna was supported by a de- butant^ who made a most hideous noise, and excited universal merriment, which his egregious vanity mistook for applause. At the end of the third act we retired, fully satiated with French provincial theatricals. On our return to our hotel we were better and more cheaply grati- fied by a ballad-singer, who was enter- taining a numerous audience with a song in praise of the new order of things ; one verse of which, promising, under the peaceful auspices of Louis, husbands to the young women, was received by the females with unbounded applause. We were also entertained by groupes of dan- cers, who, till a late hour, kept up their festivities in honour of St. John. The town of Rouen is of considerable extent, and its general air and aspect give strong indications of the industry and wealth of its inhabitants. Its population is estimated at eighty thousand. Situated on the Seine, which is navigable as far as 157 the bridge of boats, by vessels of re- spectable size, it enjoys a considerable degree of commerce. It has long been celebrated for its manufactories of linen cloth and light stuffs. Of late years its cotton factories have been in a state of great activity ; and it formerly exported considerable quantities of earthen- ware. Half surrounded by hills, which guard it from the more inclement winds, and leave it open to the south, it is remark- ably healthy J and nothing can exceed the beauty of its environs. But, if I may be permitted to form a judgment by the criterion of our bill at the Hdtel de France, Rouen is by no means to be recommended to those who would wish to live well at a reasonable rate of expence. Having hired, for 120 francs, a coach and three horses to conduct us to Paris, we rose early on Sunday morning, June 26th, to take a last look at the grand entrance of the cathedral. Not far from this edifice I perceived a dilapidated building, which, on examination, I found to be a ruined church, which had been converted into a 1j8 7-emise for the diligence, and into stabling for post horses. In the range of small windows over one of the side aisles, 1 remarked many fragments of painted glass, of which my travelling-companion procured a beautiful specimen ; and one of the west windows remained entire, though covered with dirt ; which, how- ever, could not hide the rich colours which glowed in its compartments. The whole of this building is so neglected, that I doubt not the window in question may be bought extremely clieap. At seven o'clock we took our depar- ture from Rouen, and proceeded on the road to Paris by St. Germain en Laye. In the immediate vicinity of Rouen we had bold cliffs of chalk on the left, and on the right the Seine studded with islets, and, by its windings, ever varying the landscape. Tlie general prospect was ren- dered grand by the abundance of wood ; and all the crops exhibited a most luxu- riant vegetation, and a pleasing promise of plenty. About four miles from Rouen we paused for some minutes, to examine an interesting landscape, which burst lo9 suddenly on our view. On the left rose a high eminence ; below us was the Seine, bordered with villages ; and, in the dis- tance, was a bold hill, which seemed to dip its foot in the river. At the town of St.Ouen, where we found the markets arranged and the shops open, we crossed the Seine, over a bridge of twelve arches on which are constructed a couple of mills. About a mile from thence we ascended a high hill ; and, after pass- ing through an extensive forest, pro- ceeded to Louviers, where we took break- fast. Louviers is a considerable town, celebrated for its manufacture of wool- len cloths, which we were told had of late years been in a very flourishing con- dition. Near the inn was a large church, to which I went to hear mass. The ser- vice was performed in a grand style by a number of priests and choristers, aided by a finely toned organ. The audience filled the building ; and, I think, could not amount to less than fifteen hundred people, principally women. From their occasional talking and laughing, however, I was led to conclude their devotion rather 160 mechanical than real ; and my feelings were annoyed as they had been at Dieppe, by the introduction of light, tripping airs on the organ. After the conchision of mass, notice was given that on the next Sunday a solemn service would be per- formed, and a sermon preached in com- memoration of the martyrdom of the late Louis XVI. I should be much in- clined to question the prudence of these exhibitions, the example of which was given by the newly enthroned monarch. On his accession he promised to dis- courage all unpleasant retrospections; and this promise he will do well to perform. Any exasperation of the public mind tending to the excitement of discord will be dangerous to his imperfectly ascertain- ed authority. From Louviers we went through a rich and highly cultivated country to Vernon. Here, while dinner was preparing, I lounged into the stable, where I found a number of cavalry horses. Being struck with the beauty of one of them I was proceeding to examine it, when I was ac- costed by its owner, who happened to be 6 161 a captain of the Imperial Guard. We discoursed some time upon cavalry equip- ments. Though he was not unwilling to do justice to the power of the British ca- valry, he preferred, for the details of a campaign, the lightness and activity of the French. Turning from this topic, which I did not feel myself qualified to dis- cuss, I touched him on the subject of the Emperor. This I did very gently, by ob- serving, that Napoleon was a man of ex- traordinary genius. On hearing his late master thus characterized, the soldier's eyes immediately glistened with pleasure ; and he requested that I would do him the favour to drink a glass of his wine, which he had left to look after his horse. I told him I had not yet dined j but that if he would become my guest, I should be happy to see him. He accordingly ac- companied me to our apartment. On his recurring to the subject of Bonaparte's character, I thought it my duty to qua- lify what I had said in commendation of his talents, by remarking that his ambi- tion was so unbounded, that while his power lasted it was impossible for his M 163 neighbours to rest in security. This drew from my new acquaintance a vehe- ment philippic against Talleyrand and the Senate, who, he said, had instigated Napoleon to every mischievous act which he had committed ; and after involving him in tiifficulties had basely deserted and betrayed him. " But the seizure of the sceptre of Spain? " — That was the suggestion of Talleyrand. — " And the expedition to Russia? " — Was suggested by Talle}Tand ; and after all it only failed/ in consequence of the premature setting in of the frost. In short, I found that Napoleon could do no wrong; and that for ev^ery error into which he had fallen, and for every crime of which he had been guilty, his minister was to be made responsible. But on the contrary Louis XVIII. could do nothing right. He had falsified, said the plain-spoken soldier, every promise he had made on his acces- sion to the throne. He had accepted a constitution, but had violated every article of it. He had solemnly engaged to conti- nue the constituted authorities as he found them, but he had made the most 163 capricious changes ; he had flattered the army with assurances that he had the most perfect rehance on their support, and yet he had sent the Imperial Guard away from Paris; he had diminished their privileges and appointments, and intend- ed to revive the old establishment of the Gardes Sidsses. To say all in a word, he had given himself up to the guidance of " those rascally priests," whose ' evil counsel had brought his brother to the scaffold. He was also led into error by the returning emigres, men who had de- serted their country at a period when their services were most needful, and now had the audacity to lay claim to the most distinguished honours. With con^ siderable humour Monsieur le Capitaine mimicked the air and manner of one of these characters, an old man of seventy, whom he had lately heard declare his in- tention of serving under the new regime in a military capacity, under the idea that he could make his marches, and even his charges in a cabriolet. He then asked me w^hat we thought of Louis in England ; to which I replied that he had lived so M 2 164 much in retirement, that little or nothing had been said among us of his habits or proceedings, till the late events had summoned him from his retreat. " Je vous coniprends" rejoined he, " il a bien mange et bien domiiy et voild de grands preparatifs pour condidre les affaires dhin grand royaumeJ' In short he was full of grief and bitterness of spirit ; and on my suggesting to him the probability of his incurring peril in consequence of his freedom of speech, he said he had no fears on that head, for he spoke the sen- timents of t-housands, as I should find when I arrived at Paris, which city he said was very sad, and very discontented. This man had undergone the horrors of the campaign of Moscow ! Taking our leave of him, we proceeded by a delightful route, the beauties of which were enlivened by groups of pea- sants dancing, to Mantes, where we ar- rived at a quarter before nine. Having bes])oken and inspected our beds, we walked into the town. Visiting the church we found it hung with black, and observed a catafalque erected in the choir. 165 in honour of Louis XVI. Opposite to the church door was a party of young women busily employed in playing at nine pins. We next looked into the theatre, which we found crowded with company. Here we did not stay many minutes, but returning to our inn, got supper and retired to rest. On Monday morning, June 27th, we left Mantes soon after five o'clock. ' At the extremity of the town we crossed the Seine by bridges thrown over two streams formed by the intervention of an island in the middle of the river. To the right we saw a handsome Gothic church. Beyond the bridge several troops of British cavalry, which had con- stituted a part of Lord Wellington's army, were parading for a march to Gisors, on their route to Boulogne. Our countrymen in arms, who, after aiding, by their valour, to conquer a peace, were quietly pursuing their way home through a country which had so lately been deter- minedly hostile to them, afforded a new and interesting spectacle j and I was M 3 166 happy to observe, that though all but the officers had taken up their lodging on the cold ground, both men and horses looked remarkably well. We now proceeded through a country which may be styled a continued garden, the ground on the left rising into gentle hills covered with vineyards, corn, pease, and pulse of all kinds. By the road side, which was planted with chesnut trees, peasant chil- dren were employed in watching their cattle, to prevent them from straying from the patches of grass ground, which were intermixed with crops of grain. On the left flowed the Seine, beyond which was a tract thickly interspersed with wood. On various occasions, as we went s'lowly up eminences in the road, roses, and branches of cherry trees, with the fruitgrowing on them, were thrown into the carriage by children, whom we of course rewarded for their civility with a few sous. As we stopped to give the horses water at a considerable village, the name of which I do not now recollect, we were not a little amused by seeing a blacksmith at 167 work with his hair fully powdered and dressed en queue, and an enoimous pair of gold rings pendant at his ears. At the town of Poissy we again crossed the Seine over a very long bridge, in the middle of which are two or three mills. Soon after, we entered, through an iron gate, the forest of St.Germaine, an extensive ti'act of wood divided by strait avenues which penetrate it in all directions. At the extremity of the fo- rest we found the town of St.Germaine, where we took breakfast, and then re- paired to the terrace of the palace, which commands a charming view of the ad- jacent country. On the left and in the centre of the prospect we saw St. Denis and Paris ; and on the right Malmaison, St. Cloud, and the district of Versailles. On the ever memorable 30th of March, this spot wascrowdedwith people, who dis- tinctly saw,wdth various and undescribable emotions, the battle which preceded the surrender of Paris. We found the pa- lace, which is a gloomy and inelegant brick building, surrounded by stone walls and a deep ditch, over which, opposite M 4 168 the gate, was thrown a draw-bridge. The whole edifice had the air of a state- prison ; and, on enquiry, we found, that it might well class with buildings of that description. It was Napoleon's principal military school ; and his me- thod of supplying it with pupils, af- fords an instance of that tyranny in detail, which was, no doubt, one of the primary causes of his ruin. Whenever he was apprised, by his agents, that any individual of rank or wealtli had a son who was strong, active, and spirited, and the youth had attained the age of sixteen or seventeen, the Emperor ad- dressed a letter to the parent, congra- tulating him on the early promise of his child, and graciously offering, if he des- tined him for the army, to admit him into his school at St. Germaine ; and pro- mising, on his good behaviour, to cause him to make his way rapidly in the ser- vice. This letter was well understood to be a command. The young man was accordingly severed from his domestic connections. He was shut up in the palace, where, for the space of three 169 years, he was precluded from personal conimiuiicatioii with his friends ; and emj)loyed, from five in the morning till ten at night, in studying, scientifically and practically, the military art. At the expiration of that time he w^as liberated from confinement, and sent, with a com- mission in his pocket, to join the regi- ment to w^hich it was thought expedient to attach him. When we consider the waste of life which was occasioned by Bonaparte-'s campaigns, we may easily conceive that the pupils of his military academies were regarded as for ever lost to their relatives and friends. Four hundred youths were at this time im- mured in the palace, and were to be re- stored to their parents on the breaking up of the establishment, which we un- derstood was to take place in two days from the period of our visit. What a subject must this gaol-delivery afford to the pen of a sentimental traveller, should any such character witness the transaction ! Our guide, from whom we obtained this information, was a retired soldier who had an allowance as an in- 170 valid, of eight sous a day. He acknow- ledged that most of the military were friendly to Bonaparte, but still was of opinion, that the sentiments of the na- tion at large would preclude his re-esta- blishment on the throne. At noon we left St. Germaine, and at the extremity of the town descended a hill by a road, bordered, as usual, with trees. We still had the Seine on our left hand, and a forest to the right. Passing by the water-works of Marli, at the dis- tance of about three miles from St. Ger- maine, we skirted the house and grounds of Malmaison, which latter seemed va- riegated and extensive. In the neigh- bouring town rises the spire of the church in which the empress Josephine was lately buried. The frequent occurrence of ta- verns and chateaux now indicated our near approach to the capital. We again crossed the Seine, over a most magnifi- cent bridge, opposite to which we passed a triumphal arch, begun by Bonaparte, but left unfinished. Soon after this, at the extremity of a long avenue of trees, I saw the white flag waving upon the 171 central pavilion of the Tluiilleries ; and, driving throiigli the Cham})s Elysees, we entered Paris by tlie Place Louis XV., and proceeding from thence to the Place Vendome, we saw the column erected by Napoleon, in commemoration of his German campaign of 1805. ^^ the place of his statue, which had lately been taken down from the top of this column and conveyed to Russia, is substituted the ensign of the Bourbons. Having found comfortable accommodations at the Hotel de Mirabeau in the Rue de la Paii\ for- merly Rue Napoleon^ which opens into the Place Vendome, we engaged a suite of apartments, and after enjoying the refreshments of a warm bath in the neighbouring boulevard, took a late din- ner, and spent the evening quietly at home, to recruit for the expected bustle of the following day. Tuesday morning, June 28th. Soon after breakfast we w ent to the police of- fice, where, on exhibiting our passport, w^e obtained a licence to stay at Paris for three months. In this document our dimensions were stated, and our persons 1?2 very particularly described. This process is disagreeable to the feelings of an Englishman, who has been accustomed to travel without question or restraint; but it must be acknowledged, that at the Bureau de la Police he experiences no unnecessary delay ; and that no tax is levied upon his purse. We next drove to the Post Office, and thence proceeded in all haste to the Louvre, which I entered in almost breatliless expectation. After enjoying for some time the astonishment of my fellow traveller, on seeing the apparently endless collection of pictures with which the grand gallery is filled, I w^as happy to remark a great improvement in their ar- rangement. Most of the side windows, which formerly gave such an imperfect light, are now closed, and the light is admitted through windows, pierced in the covings of the arched roof. As it would require years to study the whole of this collection, I went round the gal- lery, marking in my catalogue about a score of paintings, which I thought most worthy of future inspection ; and began 173 my detailed examination with Rubens*s celebrated Descent from the Cross, and a Holy Family by Raphael. After spending some time in this study, I descended the grand stair-case^ and entered the reposi- tory of statues. The general coup d'ceil of these specimens of the perfection of art, again aifected me with a kind of awe, which strongly revived my recollection of my last visit to this place. After gazing at the Laocoon, I looked round for the Venus de' Medici, which is one of the numerous additions made to the collection of statuary since the year 1802. But when I found this celebrated piece of sculpture, I was disappointed. My pre-conceived notions of grace and beauty w^ere by no means fulfilled. The execution of this statue seemed to me to be so far from excellent, that I thought I had seen some copies equal to the original. And in this opinion I was confirmed by frequent subsequent examinations. In truth, the Venus fades into insignificance when compared with the Apollo Belvidere. The former is indeed beautiful ; but its beauty is terrestrial. The latter in form, 5 174 attitude, and countenance, appears to be sonmething superhuman. Quitting the Musee des Arts with re- gret at four o'clock, the hour wlien it is closed, I had leisure to examine the exterior of the building, which has been lately beautified by the scraping of the' stone work, and is now restored to its primitive state of whiteness. Many houses are also cleared away, which obstructed the view of the palace ; and on the north side of the Carousel, a range of buildings is in forwardness, which, joining the Thuilleries, will, when it is finished, correspond with the grand gallery of the Louvre. When the plan of improvement, which now clearly de- V elopes itself, is completed, the Place dii Carousel will constitute one of the finest squares in Europe. From the Louvre I went to the Biblio- theque Royale where I delivered a letter of recommendation to the chief librarian' M. Van Praet, who received us with the liberality of a gentleman, and a scholar. Hence I hastened to the Palais Royal, where, on looking for a Restaurateur's, 175 Mr. Y. and I were fortunate enough to stumble upon Beldame's, which from this day we constituted our head quarters for dining, as we found that we were pro- vided with an excellent dinner, consisting of soup, fish, and two plates of meat, a dessert, and a bottle of vin de Became for about five shillings a head. It was here that I first observed ladies come unattended by gentlemen and take their dinners in a public room ; a custom which would be reckoned grossly unbecoming ill London, but is by no means uncom- mon in Paris. ^ In the evening we went to the Theatre Francais to see the comedy of X« Coquette Corrigee. We took our places in the pit, for which we paid two francs, twenty cents. As the play is a favourite one, a crow^d was assembled at the door, through which, Englishman like, I was proceeding to make my way, when I was peremptorily, but civilly stopped by a soldier, who led me to the end of the queue, and told me I must wait patiently for my turn of admission. The admo- nition of a man with a sword by his side 176 and a musket in his hand is not to be ilisregarded, so I acted according to his instructions ; and was soon admitted into a kind of pen, in whicli a convenient number of persons were impounded to take their order of introduction ; whence after paying our entrance money and re- ceiving our check- tickets mc were ad- mitted singly into the hall of tlie theatre, from which several doors conduct into the pit. The use of military as officers of police is unpopular in England — but it cannot be denied that it tends to enforce regularity in places of public resort. La Coquette Corrigee is what we call in England a genteel comedy ; and was ex- tremely well performed. I was particu- larly struck with the ease and graceful- ness of Mademoiselle Mars, a beautifid woman with fine dark and expressive eyes, which spoke to the very heart. There was nothing in the conduct of the piece which was extravagant or carica- tured. All was simple and jiatural, and the ideas of the author were given by every perfonner with the utmost accuracy and delicacy. 1T7 During the interval between the first und second acts, Mr. Y. asked me which was the royal box. I pointed it out to him, and said, that twelve years ago I had seen it occupied by the First Consul. Yes, said a Frencli gentleman who sat on my right hand, and three months ago you might have seen it occupied by the Emperor. *' In that space of time,'* said I, " wonderful changes have taken place." " True," replied my new acquaintance, " and these changes have been princi- pally effected by the persevering valour of the English." On this, a person who sat behind him, said in a surly tone — *' The English are a presuming people ; they arrogate much more to themselves than thev are entitled to." As he seemed to address this speech to me, I begged him to recollect that his observations were to- tally unprovoked on my part, as I had arrogated nothing either to myself or my country; and that I did not come to Paris to involve myself in political dis- cussions, since my principles led me to wish that every country might manage its own concerns. This appeal was cora- N if 8 mended by the bye-standers, but did not satisfy my antagonist, who drily repHed, that it would have been well for France and for all Europe if my countrjmen had acted upon this princij)le in the year 1793. 1 was glad to retreat from this discussion, into a conversation with ano- ther gentleman upon the subject of London actors ; but coidd hardly retain tlie requisite gravity, when, suddenly di- gressing from this topic, he asked me whether it was true that the Princess Charlotte had refused the hand of the Prince of Orange, and that she was soon to be married to the Duke de Berri ? I answered him that the former circum- stance was true ; but that the latter could not possibly bo so, as such a match would be contrary to our constitution : and, con- tinued I, ** We English respect our con- stitution." He understood the emphasis with whicii I uttered these words, and said that though my remark conveyed an indirect censure on the fickleness of the French, that censure was too well merited by their conduct. Wednesday morning, June 29th, whilst 179 I was meditating before breakfast, upon the wonderful embellishments which had been made by Bonaparte in every part of the city oi' Paris which I had visited yesterday, my serv^ant brought me the Joiaiial den Debats. On perusing this paper, I was disgusted by a time-scr\'ing diatribe, written by u certain Amanty Duval, who, in an essay on Fountains, has the meanness, in the very view of the edifices which give a practical and palpable contradiction to his asser- tion, to state as matter of reproach, that Bonaparte " n'avoit pas la passion de hatir." Had this WTetched scribbler called into question the good taste of the Ex-emperor, he might at least have found room for argument : but to say that he had no passion for building out- herods herod in point of hardihood ot assertion. Throwing the journal aside I w^alked to the Carousel, and took a second survey of the improvements which are now carrying on there, and mimitely examined the triimiphal arch erected opposite to the great gate of the Tuilleries. TJiis arch, which is built N 2 180 of free-stone, consists, like that of Sep- timius Severus at Rome, of three arcades. Four columns of red marble on each of the principal facades disfigure rather than ornament the edifice. They have little to support, and their glaring colour, as contrasted with the free-stone, has a bad effect. On the top of the centre arcade . is a triumphal car, to which are harnessed the celebrated Venetian horses. 8ix bas- reliefs record the memorable events of the cam})aign of 1805. — The first of these represents the capitulation of the Austrian army, under General Mack, at Ulm — the second, the battle, or rather the victory, of Austerlitz — the third. Napoleon's tiiumphal entry into Vienna — the fourth, the restoration of the King of Bavaria to his capital — the fifth, the humi- liating visit of the Emperor of Austria to the head-quarters of the French army, afler the battle of Austerlitz — the sixth, the peace of Presburg. The minor com- partments of the arch are occupied by figures representing tlie different cos- tumes of the French soldiery, and by allegorical figures, of which a minute 181 detail may be found in tlie Guide to Paris. It is highly to the credit of the discipline of the allied armies, that this monument of successful vanity has not sustained the slightest injury. In a time of profound peace, the details of its com- position must have been highly offensive to the feelings of many a gallant man. How must we then respect that military system, which, in the moment of victory, and, during a two months* occupation of Paris, could check the^thousands of hands which would gladly have been raised for its destruction ! At the opening of the Louvre gallery I repaired thither, and continued my study of the paintings and statues which I had selected as principally worthy of notice. Here I met and conversed with a British officer, who complained that, during the march of our cavalry from the south of France, after the signature of the treaty of peace, the horses and men were not admitted into- quarters, but were obliged to bivouac. This, I have been since told, was not any extraordinary hardship j but, from some circumstances N 3 182 Mhich liiktl occurred to my observation since my arrival in Paris, I was prepared to subscribe to the opinion of this officer, that the French were not disposed to be very civil to the English. As wc were provided with a special letter of recommendation to Sir Charles Stuart, the British envoy at the court of France, we this morning w^aited on His Excellency, who received us with the utmost politeness, and desired us freely to apply to him, should there be any pro- bability of his being able to facilitate the accomplishment of any of the views whicli brought us to Paris. From Sir Charles*s hotel we went to call on Mons. Langles, the celebrated Orientalist, with w horn we spent some time in inspecting the curi- osities of his cabinet, and from whom we obtained much a aluable information with regard to collections of engravings and works of mmlern art lately executed, or now in progress in the French metro- pohs. From Mons. Langles' I went to the Place Vendoirte, to examine the grand colunm substituted by Napoleon for the equestrian statue of Louis XIV., which 18:3 was removed by the populace at the com- mencement of the llevohttion. This co- lumn is 133 feet in heiglit, and 12 in diameter. In imitation of Trajan's pillar, it is adorned by a course of bas-reliefs, running in a spiral line, and representing the principal events of the, celebrated campaign in which Bonaparte destroyed, apparently for ever, the power of the House of Austria. These bas-reliefs are not, however, cut in stone ; they are ap- propriately cast in brass, produced from the melting of the cannon taken at the bat- tle of Austerlitz. At each angle of the pe- destal stands an eagle in bronze supporting a wreath of laurels. The four faces of the pedestal are richly ornamented with sculp- tures ; and on the south side is a tablet, supported by two female figures, on which, is engraved the following inscription : NAPOLEO. IMP. AUG. MONUMENTUM BELLI GERMANIC! ANNO MDCCCV TRIMESTRI SPATIO DUCTV SVO PROFLIGATI EX AERE CAPTO GLORIAE EXERCITVS MAXIMI DICAVIT> i84 On the capital oftliis column Ibmierfy stood a statue of Napoleon ; but in its place, as I have before observed, is now substituted the white flag of the French monarchy. From the Place Vendome I went to the Bibliotheque Royale^ where I em- ployed myself in reading till four o'clock. After dining at Beldame's I accom- panied Mr.Y. to the Theatre Frangais. This was a night of more than common interest, as, by order of the Court, there was to be represented Voltaire's tragedy of Merope ; the performance of which, it is said, had been interdicted by Bona- parte. On the appearance of the music, the predominant feelings of the audience were soon manifested, by their calling for the airs of Henry IV. and Charmante Gab) idle. They soon after again burst forth in the opening speech of Ismenie, when she says — " Vous que tant de Constance et quinze ans dc roisere Font encore plus auguste, et nous rendent plus chdr." 185 And so excellent was the acting of Merope, that I could not myself help ex- periencing a kind of thrill, when, in de- scribing the massacre which had taken place at Messenia, she exclaimed-^ *' J'entends encore ces voix, ces lamentable cris, Ces cris — Sauvez le roi, son epouse et ses fils, Je vois ces murs sanglans, ces portes em- brasees, Sous ces lambris fumans ces femmes ecrasees, Ces esclaves fuyans, le tumulte, I'efFroi, Les armes, les flambeaux, la mort autour de moi." If these lines made such an impression upon my mind, what effect must they have had upon the surviving French loyalists who witnessed the horrors of the loth of August, 1792 ? The following speech was loudly ap- plied to Bonaparte : " La fiere ambition, dont il est devore Est inquiete, ardente, et n'a rien de sacre, S'il chassa les brigands de Pilos et d'Amphrise S'il a sauve Messene, il croit I'avoir conquise. II agit pour lui seul, il veut tout asservir : II touche a la couronne ; et pour mieux la ravir. II n'est point de rempart que sa main ne ren- verse De loix qu'il ne corrompe, et de sang qu'il ne verse." 186 These and many other appropriate pas- sages were received with enthusiasm by a majority of the audience. But a kind of desperate rally, which was made at the occurrence of other sentiments, evinced that the friends, or rather the partizans, of IN apoleon, were still in sufficient force to sliew themselves in public. The first occurrence of this nature took place at the following speech of Polifonte : " Un soldat tel que moi peut justement pretcndre A gouverner I'etat quand il I'a su dt'fendre. Le premier qui fut roi fut un soldat heurcux." And the most bitter sensation was manifested by many people in all quarters of the house, on the repetition of a striking description of time-serving poll- ticians. " Non : la porte est livree a leur troupe cruellc .: II est environne de la foulc infidelle Des memes courtisans que j'ai vus autrefois S'empresser a ma suite, et ramper sous nies loix." On Thursday morning, June 30th, we repeated our visit to Mr.Langles', who favouied us with a particular recom- mendation to the curator of the extensive 187 ct)llecti()n of })rii)ts deposited in the Bib- liothcque Roijalc, After spending some time in examining the works of a few of the ancient masters of the art of engrav- ing, I went to the library, where, by the kindness of M. Van Praet, I was per- mitted to inspect vohnne after volume of the utmost rarity ; among the rest, some of the earliest specimens of ty})o- graphy, several Aldus's, and the Flo- rentine Homer, printed on vellum, and a copy of the famous Bocaccio, for the fellow of which, the Marquis of Bland- ford, in a fit of bibliomania, lately gave upwards of 2000I. I next turned over the catalogue of MSS. with a view of ascertaining what this truly royal collec- tion contains, illustrative of the literary liistory of the 14th and 15th centuries. At three o'clock I repeated my visit to the gallery of the Louvre, where I exa- mined several of the bas-reliefs whicli are in wonderfully fine preservation, and the Nointel marbles, which record the names of Athenian officers and soldiers who died in battle in the third year of the 80th Olymjiiad. After dining at the 188 l*alais Royal, I went with Mr. Y. to the Odeon. Here, instead of the Italian opera, which we expected, we were treated with a very dull three-act French comedy. This we found so tiresome, that we quitted the theatre before the termination of the first piece, and after making some purchases at a warehouse of philosophical trinkets, we returned to our hotel. Friday, July ist. We had this morn- ing the pleasure of a visit from Mons. T., a young gentleman of considerable promise, who, after completing his edu- cation in one of Bonaparte's military schools, had lately obtained a lieutenant- ship of artillery. He had been in Paris when the allies presented themselves before the city, and gave us a very lively picture of the confusion which that event occasioned. The Parisians had been kept in such ignorance by the suppression of all authentic intelligence in the pubhc journals, that they could not believe, the fact when they were informed that the enemy were approaching. Many of the incredulous mounted their hors#s and 189 rode towards Meaux to make personal enquiries into the real state of affairs. In the course of two or three hours after their departure they were seen galloping back ; some of them wounded, and all in the utmost consternatioil. The Boulevards were so crowded with people who were assembled to hear the news, that the troops, ammunition-caissons, and artillery which were perpetually passing, could with difficulty force a way through them : and in a short time dismay was spread over every countenance by the thunder of the ciumon, announcing the connnencement of the engagement. Mr. T.*s corps was ordered to the heights of Montmartre, on their way to which they met a line of waggons filled wuth. their wounded comrades. Montmartre was furnished only with a single bat- tery of four or five pieces ; and in the heat of the action the fresh balls which were supplied to these pieces were found to be of a wrong calibre. This circum- stance w^as imputed to treachery on the part of Marshal Marmont, who, our young soldier informed us, was generally 190 accused of betraying the cause of Bona- parte, and was on that account regarded with disHke by the great body of tlie army. I mention this circumstance merely as it was reported to me. In many con- versations wliich I have hekl with military men, and others in France, the downfall of Bonaparte has been imputed totreitl^on. But after all, I should be inclined to doubt any such assertion. The j)eople at large did not embrace the cause of their Emperor ; and when the numerical superiority of the Allies o\er any force which he could bring into the field is considered, the event of the campaign may be accounted for upon other prin- ciples than those of collusion between Napoleon's marshals and Blucher or Schwartzenberg. And in referring to the opinion of the French on this subject, it must be recollected that their pride can- not brook the idea of their capital having fallen into the hands of the enemy in consequence of the ordinary operations of war. In speaking of the Bourbons, Mi*. T. remarked, that their cause would be much 191 more heartily espoused by the nation at large, were the heads oftiiat family more alert and active in body. He said that the army looked up with ho])e to the Duke de Berri, and lamented the death of the Duke d'Enghien, whose execution had given general disgust, and was by no means approved of even by Bonaparte's partizans. At ten o'clock I w^ent to the Royal Library, and employed myself till one in reading some Latin MSS. of the fifteenth century. At one we dined at Beldame's, and at two went to attend a meetins; of the Royal Institute. This learned body now holds its sittings at the Palais des Bcaffj: ylrts. whicli was formerlv known by the appellation of the College des Quatre Nations, and is situated on the quai of the same name. The hall of the Institute is a circular room, lighted by a dome. On an elevated platform are [»laced chairs for the president and two other persons. The secretaiy and the readers occupy a small desk before the chair. The seats appropriated to the -members are advanced somewhat more 192 than lialf way into the room ; the re- mainder of the area we found occupied by strangers, who^re also admitted into two ranges of galleries. The audience, of which a considerable proportion con- sisted of females, was numerous, well dressed, and apparently very attentive ; thougli the papers read to-day were very recondite, and of course extremely dulk After making some purchases in the evening from a dealer in virtu, of the name of Daval, who resides on the Qtiai MalaquaiSf we went to the Academic Royale de Miisiquey ahas the Grand Opera, to see Jerusalem delhree, I say to see it : for the charm of the Grand Opera, this evening, consisted in the spectacle. The music was wretched, comparable only to the bellowing of bulls and the screeching of owls. But the scenery was grand — the machinery astonishingly correct, and the dancing beyond all praise. In one of the scenes which represented the Christians assem- bled at their devotions in the church of the holy sepulchre, the effect of grouping, and of the intermixture of colours in 193 costmne was superior to any thing of the kind 1 had ever before witnessed. The price of admission into the Parquet, where we sat, is 3 francs 60 cents. Saturday, July 2d, in going this morn- ing to tlie BibliotJicque Royale^ I saw the front of the church of St. Rodie^ Rue St. HonorSy hung with black. On enquir- ing what was the occasion of this appara- tus, I was informed, that a solemn service was about to be performed for the Duke of Massa, grand judge of the king- dom. Having a curiosity to see the ce- remony, I followed a crowd into the church ; apd, in quality of a stranger, was admitted by one of the attendants into the choir. After waiting here for some time, I heard the distant sound of military music. This was the signal of the approach of the funeral procession, which soon after arrived, preceded by about a score of drums and fifes, and flanked by a guard of soldiers, which advancing, lined the choir and the en- trance of the church. Among the mourn- ers were Marshal Macdonald, whose daughter had married the deceased, Mar- o J94 ^shal Oudinot, and Casa Bianca, a cou- sin of Bonaparte. The procession movetl round a magnificent catafalque covered with black cloth, fringed with silver lace, and lighted with a profusion of wax ta- pers. At the foot of this catafalque was deposited a small box, which I presume contained the heart of the deceased, whose body had previously been convey- ed to the Pantheon. The service then commenced, which was performed in a very solemn and impressive manner. The effect which it produced was, however, occasionally impaired by the military presenting arms at the orders of their commanding officer. At the close of the ceremony, the mourners in succes- sion sprinkled holy water with a brush at the foot of the catafalque, and took their leave with a low reverence. This put me in mind of the conclusion of a Roman funeral, as described by Virgil : ** Idem ter socios pura circumtulit unda Spargens rore levi et ramo felicis olivae." A Swiss gentleman, who sat next to me in the choir, and with whom I had a good deal of conversation before the com- 195 menccment of the service, remarked to me, that in wresting the Netherlands from France, the AlHes had sown the seeds of a new war ; that the French were eagerly bent upon a renewal of hos- tilities against Austria, the conduct of which power was generally reprobated by all parties in the kingdom, especially by the army. He also said that nuich discon- • tent had been excited against the English by the prisoners of war who had returned from our country, and loudly complained of having suffered much ill-treatment durhig the period of their captivity. As he seemed to appeal to me as to the jus- tice of these complaints, and as I knew nothing of the fact from my own observa- tion, I could only assure him, as I ho- nestly did, that harshness to the unfortu- nate was not a characteristic of our na- tion ; that long captivity would naturally render men impatient and irritable; and that with regard to the private soldiers^ whom we had taken in the course of the war, and who were of necessity confined in prisons, I had heard that in spite of all remonstrance and interference on the 196 part of our government, many of them had reduced themselves to much misery by their indulgence of a propensity to gaming, which is one of the most striking faults of the French character. The funeral of the Duke of Massa de- tained me till the repository of manu- scripts in the Royal Library was shut ; so I proceeded to that inexhaustible store- house of elegant amusement, the Louvre, and spent two hours in examining the pic- tures and statues. Among the former I particularly examined Titian's por- trait of his mistress, Raphaers St. Ce- cilia, and the Evangelist St. Mark, and four other pictures, specimens of bold design and masterly colouring, by Fra. Bartolomeo. After dining at the usual place I went to a bookseller's shop, who, in consi- deration of a few purchases of some va- lue, permitted me to run over a collection of the political pamphlets, which had been published in Paris since the fall of Bonaparte. These are truly ephemeral productions. I have never met with any thing more contemptible. The attempts 197 of tlie French writers to avail themselves of that liberty of the press, of which they have been so long deprived, resem- ble the awkward gait of a man, who, after wearing heavy irons for a dozen years, has suddenly got rid of his shackles. The constraint of some evinced a latent fear of the revival of the dynasty of Na- poleon. The apologetic whining, and outrageous loyalty of others, indicated a desperate effort, on the part of their au- thors, to atone for grievous offences of ancient date against the house of Bour- bon. One agent of the Bonapartean re- gime attempted to demonstrate, that his evil deeds were the result of compulsion: another endeavoured to shift the blame from himself to his partners in iniquity. General principles were little understood, or timidly applied to the incidents of the moment ; and in the few publications, which professed to contain narratives of facts written by the principal actors, I was disappointed, finding them full of declamation or evident exaggerations 'and falsehoods. The only work of merit which I found, was entitled *' Les Memontrances 03 198 du ParteiTe^ ou Lettre d*u?i Homme qui 7i*est rien a tous ceua: qui ne sont rien.*' This pamphlet abounded in good sense and good temper, and contained very "wholesome advice as to the best mode of building the public happiness upon the restoration of the Bourbons. A little before sun-set I went to the Boulevards. The grdupes which were assembled in these beautiful public walks, afforded one of the most striking specta- cles which I had seen since my arrival in Paris. So numerous Was the assembly which was here collected, that it seemed as if the whole mass of the inhabitants of the city were come out to lounge. In many places the crowd was so great, that it was difficult to move along. Both males and females were in general well dressed for this promenade, and they seemed to be formed into family parties. At one carrefour a concourse of people were entertaining themselves by watch- ing the tricks of a juggler ; at the next an assemblage no less numerous, was de- hghted by the agility of dancing dogs. Here those who had music in their souls, 8 199 listened to the strains of an Italian bal- lad singer ; there the noise of a French musician gratified the bad taste of his countrymen. Fiddles, flutes, and vari- ous other kinds of instruments succeeded each other at short intervals, and added to the gaiety of the scene. For those who were tired of walking, chairs were provided at the easy rate of one sous per sitting. Hundreds of these were ar- ranged in convenient situations, gene- rally opposite to some restaurateur' '&^ or to the booth of some vendor of lemon- ade. The latter supplied a cheap and sober refreshment, which was actively distributed by waiters, whose alertness and vigilance in serving their customers, and collecting their dues, were truly as- tonishing. On the whole I was much gratified by the sight. The Boulevards afford a promenade readily accessible from the very centre of the city, the en- joyment of which must conduce much to the health and comforts of the inhabitants. For want of some such accommodation, the London tradesman is driven to relax himself from the cares of business in a o 4 200 tavern, wliilst his family are left, perhaps fretful and discontented, at home. On the morning of Sunday July 3d, we went to the church of Notre Dame to hear high mass. The service was not, however, performed with its usual gran- deur ; and the singing was totally spoiled by one ambitious youth in the choir, who, wishing to distinguish himself, screamed most unmercifully, and frequently out of tune. The inside of the church is rich in sculptures, tapestry, and paintings ; and the high altar of white marble, or- namented by a bas-relief of the interment of,Jesus, is extremely beautiful. But to the faithful, the most interesting portions of the furniture of this church are the identical crown of thorns, which was placed on the head of our Saviour, and a piece of the true cross, both which are deposited in the sacristy. Under- standing that a grand mass was to be performed this morning, in honour of St. Peter, at the church o^ St, Sulpice^.v^'e left the noisy choristers of Notre Dame and repaired thither. — The church of St. Sulpice, tliough of Grecian architec- 201 ture, is truly magnificent. The choir is said to be 89 feet in length, 42 feet in breadth, and 99 feet high. Two large figures in bronze almost overshadow the high altar ; and the choir is moreover ornamented by statues of Jesus Christ, St. Paul, St. Peter, and St. John the Evange- list. The building was crowded to excess, especially by women, of which sex many of the chapels were absolutely full. The ceremony was august, and the sing- ing excellent and impressive. At the upper end of the choir sat the Bishop of Elvas in his pontifical robes. In passing from the church of Notre Dame to that of St. Sulj)ice we looked into the Morgue, a receptacle for the bodies of imknown persons, who are killed by accident, or found dead, and ;^re left here, as long as it is judged ex- pedient, to be owned by their friends. We found in it, laid on an inclined plat- form, the corpses of a man and a young woman, which had the night before been taken out of the river ; and we were in- formed that in consequence of the nar- rowness of the streets fatal accidents are 202 so frequent in Paris, that this melancholy repository is seldom untenanted. This evening we visited Mons. T., at whose liouse we met a family party, consisting of the mother, the widow, and other re- latives of one of the most distinguished leaders of the Revolution. For some time, the individual to whom I allude,, directed the affairs of France ; and had the composition of his character con- tained some portion of military energy, he might have ascended the throne in- stead of the scaffold. Reflections on grandeur in prospect, but not attained, did not, however, seem to weigh heavy on the minds of his surviving relations, who appeared to be perfectly happy in an honourable mediocrity of circum- stances, which is an evidence of the per- sonal integrity of his administration. Monday, July 4th, soon after breakfast I received a visit from Mr. Parker, an ec- clesiastic of eminence, who is at the head of the Irish College, on the Montague St. Ge- nevieve. In consequence of a letter of re- commendation to him from a mutual friend, I experienced from him the most polite 203 attentions, and liberal offers of his assist- ance in prosecuting my examination of the curiosities of Paris. Wlien he took liis leave I went to the repository of manuscripts in the Royal Library, where I was busily employed in reading till two o'clock., I then adjourned to my place of daily resort, the Gallery of the Louvre, where I spent some time in contemplat- ing Titian's incomparable portrait of Alphonso d*Avalos Marchese del Guasto and his mistress ; and Raphael's Transfi- guration, and his celebrated groupe, con- taining the portraits of Leo X., Julio de Medici, afterwards Clement VII., and the Cardinal de Rossi. At four I called upon Mr. B., an English gentleman, who was come to Paris in quality of deputy from a number of merchants, who wished to make some commercial arrangements with the French government. This gen- tleman, whom I well knew to be singularly observant, intelligent, and active, and who, from his frequent communications with the public offices, enjoyed peculiar means of obtaining information as to the state of affairs in France, assured me that I was 204 correct in my opinion, that the military were in general dissatisfied with the new order of things, and that he had himself heard parties of the Gardes du Corps, who had faintly and sulkily repeated, af- ter their officers, " Vive le Roiy" at a review on the Carousel, cry with enthu- siasm, " Vive VEmpereur,'* as soon as they had piled their arms at their casernes. He also informed me, that a few days ago a whole regiment, officers and men, had mutinied at Nemours, and had set off on a march to Paris, in full confidence of being joined by the garrison of that city in effecting a counter-revolution ~ that afler proceeding on their way to the metropolis about six hours, their hearts had failed them, and they had marched back to Nemours, whither Marshal Ou- dinot had instantly repaired, and caused three of the ringleaders to be shot. The King, he said, with his characteristic mildness, wished to have pardoned the offenders ; but the Marshal, tliinking a severe example was, in this case, ab- solutely necessary, had over-rid ed his opiniojl. This intelligence was not of 205 tiie most pleasant description, as I was well convinced, that in the event of* a movement in favour of Napoleon, the English in France would be in consider- able danger. After dining at the Palais Royal, I accompanied Mr. Y. to the Opera Comique, Rue Fey dean. The price of admission into the parterre of this theatre is 2 francs 20 cents. The audience at the Opera Comique had not so fashionable an appear- ance as that which we had seen at the Grand Opera ; but both the music and the singing were of a far superior quality to that which we heard at the latter. Two pieces w^ere performed this evening, Richard Cceur de Lion^ and Zemire et Azor. During the jealous domination of Bonaparte, the former, on account of the Royalist air of *' O Richard, O mon Roiy'* had been prohibited. It was now revived with great spirit, and was certainly got up in a most excellent style. I even thought that the lady who performed An- tonio, was, in some respects, superior to Mrs. Jordan, who, some four or five and twenty years ago, threw such interest into 206 this character on the London stage. A good singer, however, runs great risk of being spoiled by a Parisian audience : for I observed, that when Blondel, who had evidently a delicate taste in music, occasionally deviated into a roar, he was rewarded for his condescension by loud applause. Zemire et AzoVy it is well known, is the piece which made the for- tune of Marmontel. In its composition, indeed, he exhausted his poetic fire ; or rather, the irregularity of life into which he was seduced during the popularity which accrued to him in consequence of its success, clouded his genius. None of his subsequent dramas are comparable to it. Tuesday, July 5th. Soon after break- fast we received a note from the secre- tary of Sir Charles Stewart, informing us that a couit would be held this morning, and that if we wished it. His Excellency would do us the honour to present us. This intelligence put us instantly in motion. My friend Mr. Y. hurried away to procure a court-diess. As to myself, I was informed by our domes- 207 tiqiiey who, of course, knew every thing, that as an ecck^siastic I luid only to put on my black suit, and to equip myself with shoe-buckles, as shoe-strings were not admitted. At a quarter past eleven w^e drove in a chariot, which w^e had hired for the purpose, to the Tuilleries. Being strangers to court arrangements we proceeded directly up stairs, and pe- netrated into the second anti-chamber, where we found several officers of the palace, and an eager crowd of specta- tors. On making particular enquiries from one of the former, we were told, that we ought to repair to the Salle des Amhassadeurs. It was wdth some diffi- culty that we found this salle ; a low, small, mean-looking room on the ground- floor. In this room, however, were as- sembled the ambassadors from Russia, Prussia, and the other states of Europe, and their respective proteges. Sir Charles Stewart w^as not yet arrived. Soon after my entrance, I perceived an officer of state, who acted as a kind of master of the ceremonies, eyeing me aside with an air which boded me no good. When 208 our ambassador made his appearance, this gentleman accosted him, and soon after- wards Sir Charles came up to me and ob- served to me, that my coat was " en fraCy* and that I could not possibly be presented in that costume. Vexed that my ignorance of forms, and my ill- founded reliance on the superior know- ledge of my domestiquey should have be- trayed me into an impropriety, I instantly withdrew. Being determined, however, if possible, to pay my respects to Louis le Desirey when I arrived at the great gate of the chateau, I called for our servants, who were luckily in waiting, and mount- ing our carriage, I drove in all haste to a taylor*s at the . Palais Royal, where in a few moments I was correctly equipped. I drove back to the Tuilleries like light- ning, and arrived before the corps diplo- ynatique were summoned into the royal presence. Having once more passed in review I was found completely en regie, — and the master of the ceremo- nies politely tendered me his excuses for his interference, which, as I assured him in all sincerity, needed no excuses, as 209 lie had done no more than his duty. By and by notice was given that His Majesty was ready to receive us, on which we proceeded between two files of soldiers arranged along the grand stair- case, and through a suite of magnificeiH apartments, into the presence-chamber; where each ambassador presented his countrymen individually, announcing their names from a card, which each handed to him as he advanced in his turn. The King received those who were presented with a bow. When w^e had passed him we arranged ourselves in a circle, into which he came when the presentations were finished, and, after speaking a few words to some of the am- bassadors, he made a general bow, on which we witlidrew. Louis was dressed in the uniform of the national guard, and wore the cordon hleii. He was un- comfortably corpulent, and seemed very infirm in his feet ; but his countenance is extremely pleasing, and, if any reliance is to be placed on physiognomy, he is a man of a very benevolent . disposition. After the levee was over, Mr. Y. and I p 210 took a ride into the Bois de Boulogne / and, after attempting in vain, to gain admittance into Bagatelley which is now restored to its .ancient possessor, Mon« sieur, we returned home by Passy. Passy is one of the most pleasant villages in the environs of Paris. It consists principally of a considerable number of elegant chateaux, surrounded by gardens and pleasure-grounds, and situated on a gentle acclivity, at the bottom of which flows the Seine. Not far from the road- side the foundations of a new building were pointed out to us, which, we w^ere informed, was intended to have been ap- propriated as the palace of the King of Rome. At a little distance from this building we passed by the bridge of Jena, which was begun by Bonaparte in the year 1 806 ; and yet its decorations were not completed at the time of his deposi- tion. It is a most beautiful structure, consisting of five arches of equal size, and the view from its western extremity is terminated by the Ecole Militaire, at the distance of about a mile. To the right of this bridge we saw an extensive o 211 cotton-mill, which was said, however, not to be in a very flourishing condition. After dinner I drove to the Salpctriere. Being informed that, in consequence of the hospital being occupied by wounded soldiers, Dr. Pinel had removed to a tem- porary residence in the vicinity, I re- paired thither, and had the pleasure to find him, after so long an interval as had passed since I had seen him before, look- ing remarkably well, and highly gratified by the renewal of communication w^ith his friends in England. Returning home in the evening, I went to read the English papers at the caffe de Riche, on the Italian boulevards. After so long a sus- pension of intelligence from my native country, it was quite a luxury to turn over at leisure the files of the Courier and the Times. The boulevards were as gay and as crow^ded as usual. Wednesday, July 6th. Early in tiie morning, Lieut. T. called upon us to con- duct us to the heights of Montmartre. As the sun w^as already pow^erful, we went to the foot of the hill in cabri- olets, which were opened at the barrier, p 2 O [0 and examined by a dormnier, whose duty it is to prevent the export or import of contraband goods. Quitting our vehicles, we ascended the eminence to tlie church, a dirty and neglected building, beyond which stands the celebrated telegraph, which for so many years maintained a rapid communication between Paris and the extremities of Italy and Germany. By favour of the keepers we were ad- mitted into the galleiy of this edifice, whence we enjoyed a most noble prospect. On one side was visible the whole extent of Paris, Passy, St. Cloud, St.Germaine, and St. Denys. On the other, tlie exten- sive plain, which, on the 30th of March, was in a manner covered by the armies of the Allies. Mons. T. pointed out to us the positions respectively occupied by the Russians, the Prussians, the Austrians, and the French, at the commencement of the engagement ; and related the vi- cissitudes of the battle, with all . the warmth of one who had shared in the fortunes of the day, and who had so strong an interest in its event. Of course he did not neglect to shew us where his 213 corps was posted, and to expatiate on the execution they had done on tlie ene- my. And, indeed, we afterwards ascer- tained, by other testimony, that the divi- sion to which he was attached had dis- tinguished itself by the obstinacy of its valour. During the engagement much mischief was of course done to the neigh- bouring villages, but it is now almost completely repaired ; and, in the course of a few days, the dead were all interred, principally in a cemetery at the foot of the hill looking towards the plain. This warlike detail naturally led to a discussiqn of the character of the marshals, who, we found, are, in general, not by any means popular with the army, who think they betrayed the Emperor. This is a most fortunate circumstance for the Bourbons. The marshals must be to the newly re- stored dynasty objects of jealousy ; and a reasonable diminution of their influence will render them less formidable, w^hile, at the same time, their abilities will, when forced into a proper direction, render them very useful. The telegraph re- minding us of the bulletins of the late P 3 214 Emperor, I found that our conductor could say many of them by heart, and understood from him that their style was much admired by the young soldiery. If this was the case, it could not with truth be said, that they were in the way of imbibing the principles of good taste in composition. From Montmartre I went to my stated employment among the MSS. of the Royal Library, and at two o'clock proceeded to the Louvre. At the extremity of tlie square, opposite the entrance into the grand gallery, I had often observed a kind of booth or tent, before nvhich was collected a large crowd. To day I went up to this booth, where I found a mounte- bank amusing the populace with various grimaces. Among other exploits he fixed a huge pair of blank spectacles to the end of his nose, or rather of his proboscis, over the muscles of which he had such command, that he twisted it so as to move the spectacles in time to a violin, which he scraped with more energy than delicacy of bowing. After playing a number of tricks he made a kind of 215 proclamation, inviting the spectators to hear a philosophical lecture on the mode- rate terms of six sous a head. On hear- ing this invitation I went to examine the contents of some neighbouring book stalls ; but soon after, seeing many people enter the booth, I paid my six sous, and making my way into the lecture room was astonished to find my Merry-andrew des- canting on the composition of atmospheric air, and demolishing the phlogistic theory. Ainsi dit le savant Priestley^ he was ex- claiming when I entered, niais moije suis d'un avis differoit. The air of his booth not permitting me long to benefit by the instructions of this laughing philosopher, 1 left him, and spent a pleasant hour among the ancient statues. After dinner I walked along half the extent of the Boulevards to deliver a letter, which I had engaged to convey to a celebrated musical composer. From him I received a dismal account of the situation of Paris after Napoleon's last departure for the army. Commercial confidence was totally annihilated. No property was of value except landed property. Every body p 4 216 anticipated disastrous tidings ; but it was dangerous to give utterance to doubts or fears. The police agents were a perpetual object of dread, and each individual was in awe of his neighbour. Speaking of the horrors of the conscrip- tion, he said he had a son of twenty years of age, who had been ballotted and ordered to join his regiment as a private soldier. Unwilling to part with him, he had paid three himdred pounds sterling for a substitute. At the end of three months a fresh summons arrived for his son, in consequence of the substitute's having been killed in battle. A second substitute was procured, and six months after that, the young man was again de- manded, as this second substitute had deserted. Rendered desperate by these repeated acts of oppression, he sent his son out of the kingdom ; and was hap- pily relieved from his responsibility for so doing by the late successes of the Allies. Who will wonder at the fall of a throne supported by such a system as this ? Who will not rather wonder that it shoiUd have stood firm so long as it did ? 5217 n 111 rsday, July 7th, soon after breakfast I accoiiipanictl Mr. Y. to pay a visit to Matlanie !>., the wife of a merchant of orcat respcctabiHty with whom he had dined yesterday. I was very much pleased with this lady, who appeared to me hap- pily to unite the ease of the French with tlie modesty of the English females. On enquiry 1 found tliat in point of fact she was a Swisse. Thence I w^ent to deliver a letter of introduction to the Baron , a member of the legislative body. Tl)e street in which his house is situated is narrow and incommodious ; and the house itself, in its external appearance, is very impromising. Its interior, however, is spacious and elegant. This inconsistency perpetually occurs in Paris. The Baron not being at home, I left my credentials, and hastened to the palace of the Corps Legislatif; but was stopped, at the en- trance into the court, by a file of soldiers, whose Serjeant informed me that no sit- ting would be held to day. I then walked on to DavaPs, where I made some pur- chases, and heard from a lady an elo- 5 218 quent, and I believe a well merited eu- logium on the^ conduct of the Russian troops during their residence in Paris. — Among other matters of commenda- tion, she observed that the Russians are the only foreigners who can accomplish the speaking of the Frencli language without a foreign accent. I next walked along the banks of the river to the P,alats de la Justice, with the intention of attend- ing the courts of law, but was disap- pointed on finding that they were not open. A magistrate, however, was sit- ting at the office of the Police Con-ec- tionelle, to decide upon the complaints which were laid before him by the offi- cers of justice, or by private individuals. The business of this office seemed to be conducted w^th great decorum, which was only interrupted by the irrepressible laughter occasioned by an elaborate ha- rangue, uttered by a man who stammered most wretchedly, against one of his fe- male neighbours. Before his complaint was ended, I set off for the Jardin des Plantes. On my arrival there the sun 219 was so powerful tliat I could not endure to walk upon the burning gravel ; so I took shelter in a neighbouring caffe^ and read the papers till three, when I mounted a cabriolet and drove to Dr. Pinel's, where I was engaged to dine. The Doctor had been so kind as to invite two literary gentlemen to meet me. With this paity I spent a very pleasant afternoon. On my way home in the evening, I stopped at the Odeo?i, where I saw a new piece in three acts per- formed with much ease and elegance. On the morning of Friday, July 8th, I repeated my call on the Baron. He was at home, and received me in a well furnished library with great politeness. In speaking of public affairs, I observed to him, that I was aware, from the pro- ceedings of the legislative body, that, like the British government, the ministers of Louis XVIII. could not immediately proceed to alleviate the weight of tax- ation. He said it was true, and that un- pleasant consequences had arisen from that circumstance — that many people had foolislily flattered themselves, that 220 , on getting rid of Napoleon they would at once be relieved from all their griev- ances, and tliat all taxes would be abo- lished ; and that even with regard to reasonable persons, much mischief had been occasioned by a hasty proclamation issued by Monsieur, in which he had classed the ** droits reunis** with the conscription, and had promised to abrogate both. On mature examination, however, it was found that the " droits reimis'* were too essential a part of the revenue to be spared ; and that the disappointment oc- casioned by their continuance had given rise to tumults in various parts of the kingdom. It was expected, however, that modifications could b6 applied to the collection of these duties, by W'hich their real grievance would be in a great measure done away. These *' droits reunis** are a species of excise laws ; and on his questioning me on the subject, I informed him, that, harsh and oppressive as the English excise laws appear to be in the letter, by long habit the system is practically administered in such a manner that the fair dealer has seldom any just cause to complain, lleferring to a pro- posal on the part of tKe ministers of Louis XVIII. to submit all pamphlets under thirty sheets in extent to a cen- sorship previously to their publication, I took the liberty to hazard an opinion, that in a state where the laws are duly administered, the liberty of printing might be put upon the same footing as the liberty of carrying a cane, or wearing a sword — that as e\'ery body in France was allowed to carry the one or wear the other, but was made responsible to the law if he struck or w^ounded his neigh- bour, so the law should not interfere with printing except in case of public or pri- vate injury, in which case the party of- fending should, upon legal conviction, be subject to a punishment proportionable to the enormity of his offence. In this sen- timent the Baron did' not concur. The French, he said, were too easily" roused to action — that at the present crisis unrestrained printing would kindle end- less animosities, and would be abused by the enemies of peace and union. In fine, he asked me whether, if a new order of things 222 were now to be arranged in England, our court would allow of unrestrained printing ? I replied that if by the court was meant the Prince Regent and his private advisers, I could not presume to have an opinion upon their \aews ; but that if by that term was meant his re- sponsible ministers, I was confident they would be content to leave the press in its present state ; for that such were the changes pei'petually occurring in our ad- ministration, that the extended inte- rests of ministers were not disjoined from those of the community at large; and that even upon selfish principles, a British mi- nister, who to-morrow may find himself in the ranks of opposition, would not lay any unnecessary restraint on the free- dom of the press. I could have wished to have conversed more u})on this im- portant topic ; but knowing the Baron's time was precious, I took my leave, and went to join Mr. Y. at Daval's. Here taking a fiacre we drove to the Ecole Mi- litairCy into which, since the occupation of Paris by the Allies, strangers are not admitted. We could, therefore. 003 only examine the exterior of the build- ing, and view the Champ de Mars in front, and the heights of Passy rising in the distance. I was surprized to sec still left over the great gateway the in- scription QUARTIER NAPOLEON. From the Ecole Militaire we drove to the Hopital des Invalides, where we ar- ri\'ed just at the time when the privates were sitting down to a dinner, which seem- ed to be plentiful and good. On going tlirough the chapel I no longer saw the standards, which were suspended there in 1802. When I made enquiry about them from the old soldier who had the custody of the dome, he shewed evident^ marks of chagrin ; and with reluctance informed us, that when the day was lost at Montmartre, these trophies of victory had been committed to the flames. In the library we found a number of vete- ran officers assembled together, and listening to one of their comrades, who was reading to them this morning's Mo- niteur. This we understood was his dai- ly task. I observed that the monotony of his voice, or the influence of a solid 224 quarto which lay open before him, had lulled to sleep a veteran student, who grievously interrupted the praelector by his snoring. On looking into several of the volumes, I found them marked on the ti- tle pages with the imperial eagle. In the midst of the court was a pedestal intended for a statue of Marshal Lasnes, but now destined to support the eflUgy of Louis XIV. The officers' dining room, into which we looked, held twche tables, each of which was calculated to accom- modate twelve guests. Tlic service con- sisted of silver plate, which was pie- sented to the mess by the Empress Mariu Louisa. The whole establishment of the Invalides consists of 3,500 men, who seem to be systematically well accommo- dated, and rendered as happy as age, and infirmities will permit. In our perambula- tion, we met with an Irishman who had lost an arm, and who, with characteristic heedlessness, told us, that he had formerly belonged to a regiment of British di'agoons j that having been taken prisoner in Sir John Moore's retreat to Corunna, he had entered into the French service, and that ^25 ke had not lost his limb in battle but in a iluel, the knowledge of which circum- stance would infallibly occasion his ex- pulsion from the Invaltdes. We next proceeded to the Musee des Monumens Fnmgois^ where we spent about three hours with tlie greatest plea- sure. The coolness of the halls and cloisters of tiie monastery afforded a grateful relief from the heat of the day ; and the garden was extremely refreshing, as the acacias and other trees with which it was planted, yielded a welcome shade, sitting under which we contemplated the memorials of elder years. Many addi- tions have been made to the collection of monuments, since I was here before. In the year 1802 the tombs of Abelard and Heloise were simply deposited on the grass-plot in the centre of the garden. They are now removed to a little distance from their former situation, and covered by a kind of sepulchral arch, composed of the ruins of the chapel of the Paraclete, which has a very striking effect. In the interior of the building the most beauti- ful monuments are those of Francis I. 226 and of Diana of Poictiers. The collec- tion of painted glass with which the win- dows of the monastery are ornamented, at once affords a light well suited to the concomitant scenery, and presents a his- tory of the progress of an art which, after being for some time lost, has lately been revived. Of these specimens • of ancient skill, the most exquisite occur in the hall of the sixteenth century, which contains five windows, three of which were designed and executed by Jean Cousin. The fourth represents Christ crowned with thorns, after a drawing by Albert Durer, and the fifth the nativity and the circumcision of our Lord, design- ed by Primaticcio. In the principal gallery, the story of Cupid and Psyche, represented in thirty- two pictures, copied from the works of Raphael, aflfbrds a specimen of the art to which I have never seen any thing su- perior. To day we dined by appointment with Mr. Y.'s friend Mr. B. The party was not numerous, but very pleasant. I ob- served that etiquette calls upon the prin- 227 cipal guest, on the annunciation of din- ner, to conduct the lady of the house to tlie dining-room. The dinner consisted of several courses, and was well-dressed and elegantly served. At intervals Bur- gundy and Bourdeaux wines were cir- culated ; but almost immediately after the cloth was removed, coffee and li- queurs were introduced ; and at a very early period tlie ladies withdrew, ac- companied by the gentlemen. This arrangement, which in England would be dreadfully heretical, met with my thorough approbation. After living so many days as a bachelor, a dinner en Jaynille, and female society, were to me an extraordinary treat. I was therefore highly gratified when, on our rising to take our departure, Mr. Y. and myself were invited to spend the evening with Madame. New guests arriving, some formed themselves into card parties ; others inspected a collection of the cari- catures of the day ; among which I par- ticularly distinguished one representing the leading French political characters turning their coats. The principal figure 228 is the Prince of Benevento, ^vho, holding his garment before him, previously to his making the decisive movement, looks anxiously up to a vane, to see which way the wind blows. But to me the chief interest of the evening arose from the conversation of a young French lady, who, without the aid of a master, had acquired a very competent knowledge of many of our best authors. Her treasure of English poetry was Knox's Elegant Extracts in verse. Saturday, July 9th. This day we de- dicated to Versailles and the adjacent palaces. Setting off at half past six in a voiture, we passed through the Champs Ell/sees^ where, at this early hour, groups of the populace, and battalions of in- fantry and troops, of cavalry, practising military inanoeu\Tes, presented among the trees an interesting ^'ariety. Leaving tlue bridge of Jena on the left, we went through Passy, in the neighbourhood of which village the corn appeared to be ready for the sickle. After proceeding for some time, we saw, on our right, the palace and to^\^l of St. Cloud, and on the 229 left Bcllc-vue. Crossing the Seine by an old bridge, that will soon be replaced by a new one, which is in great forward- ness, we drove through Sevres without stopping to visit the celebrated manu- factory of china. At about half ])ast eight we arrived at Versailles. The streets of this town, once crowded by the ca/riages of the noblesse, still pre- sent an air of desolation. We took our breakfast at the Hotel du Grand Reser- voit^ ; and having procured a guide, pro- ceeded on our perambulation. We first walked through the principal alleys of the garden to the head of the great canal, and after contemplating for some time the grandeur of the ancient style of lay- ing out pleasure-grounds, we proceeded to the Great Trianon, into which we were admitted by a kind of house-stew- ard, who is appointed to shew it to strangers. This elegant retreat, which consists of various suites of apartments, all situated on the ground floor, is very conveniently arranged and handsomely furnished. Among the curiosities we par- ticularly admired an inlaid table, repre- Q 3 230 senti ng the twelve signs of the zodiac^ made by a deaf and dumb artist, a pupil of the Abbe Sicard — a cameo in agate, found in the ruins of Herculaneum, which far silrpasses in beauty any thing of the kind that ever fell under my observation, and a table and vase of Malachite of copper, presented, in the days of their friendship, by the Emperor of Russia to Napoleon. Among a variety of picture* which adoni the apartments, a Venus by Guido is incomparably excellent. The four periods of the -day by Vernet are alsa executed in a masterly style — and the portrait of Madame de Fontanges, mis- tress to Louis XIV., has all the witchery of life. From the Grand we-extended our walk to the Petit Trianon ; and I was glad to find that this retreat of Royalty is no longer disgraced by being the residence of a Restaurateur. It was purchased by Na})oleon, and now constitutes a part of the property of the crown. In the French garden I remarked one object of curio- sity, which I did not remember to have seen before ; namely, a kind of round- 8 231 ' about, level witli the ground, fitted with double chairs, calculated to hold eight persons, who can with ease be whirled round by two servants. After lingering for some time in the English garden, which appeared to me to be laid out pre- cisely as it was in 1802, we went into the house, the furniture and decorations of which have lost much of their splendour, which will however be now, in all pro- bability, renewed. Returning to Ver- sailles we visited what our guide repre- sented as the most striking object in the precincts of the garden, viz. the baths of Apollo. These baths consist of an im- mense artificial grotto and rock, on which are assembled a groupe, composed of Apollo and the nine Muses, and in two recesses, are horses taking shelter. This is altogether a puerile affair.. Art is so visible throughout, that the whole has a paltry and insignificant appear- ance. Again passing along the main terrace to the point of view, whence are seen the canal and the great jet- d'eau, the whole bordered with innu- merable statues of grand execution, we Q 4 232 went to the Orangerie ; and inspected the cloisters, into which the trees are removed in the winter months. Hence we proceeded to the library, on our way to which, we passed through the iron-gate, where the Duke de Brissac, the Deputy Barnave, and many other distinguished characters were murdered during the Revolution. On going through the suites of" rooms, over the doors of which are painted the capital cities of the prin- cipal states of Europe, I foimd that Bona- parte had personally visited every one of these except Constantinople and London. Into the body of the palace we could not gain admittance, as two thousand work- men were employed in refitting it for the reception of the Court, an arrangement, the prospect of which already gives um- brage to the good people of Paris. At dinner, however, we learnt from the de- moiselle who waited on us, tliat the inha- bitants of Versailles, on the score of their persevering loyalty, advance great clainjs upon the patronage of the Bourbons, and particularly pride themselves upon the fact, that tliey were so much the objects 233 of dislike to Napoleon, that, whenever he had occasion to pass through their town, he always hastened on at full gallop. On my asking this young person how the ladies were affected towards the Emperor, she said, they detested him. — " JEt pour- qiioi done, Mademoiselle /"' Her answer was prompt and pithy, — *' Parce qu'il a fait tuer tons nos amans.** Having hastily dispatched our dinner, we mounted oiu' voiture and set off for St. Cloud. After passing through Sevres, we turned suddenly on our left, through a road skirted by a beautiful wood. This wood is laid out in walks ; and, at the lower part of it, we saw a number of little shops or booths, where we were informed, that on certain days of the year a kind of fair and Jete champelre are held. At length, making another turn to the left, we ascended a steep hill, at the top of which are the iron-gates that guard the entrance to the palace. Here, when we presented ourselves, the porter, in a very surly tone, refused us admittance. I re- monstrated to him, that we were English- men J — that our country had afforded 234 shelter to the Bourbons, when they were banished from all other states ; and that> in consideration of our hospitality, we claimed the return of civility when we came to witness , their prosperity ; and I desired him to go with our com- pliments, and to state our request of admittance to the officer on duty. This remonstrance had an immediate effect ; — the gate was opened ; — we walked into the court ; — and one of the household of Monsieur soon came for- ward, to say that the King was at that moment in the palace on a visit to his brother ; but that if we would have the patience to wait till he was gone (and he w^ould not stay more than ten minutes or a quarter of an hour), we should be welcome to see the apartments. This quarter of an hour we spent upon the terrace, which commands a most charm- ing prospect. Hence the eye wanders over a district abounding in wood, and watered by the Seine, and rests in the distance, on Paris, bounded on the left by the hill of Montmartre, while, on the right, the dome of the Invalides J and that of the EcokMili- 235 tairCy rise proudly over the circumjacent, buildings ; and, to add to the beauty of the picture, the horizon is not dimmed by one streak of smoke. What an anxious groupe must have been assembled on this terrace to watch the events of the battle of the 30th of March ? As we were standing on the terrace, the fountains on a sudden began to play, and to diffuse all around a refreshing coolness. This, we were told, was the signal of the King's departure. Follow- ing a few of the domestics into the east garden, we soon saw two coaches pass, the one di'awn by six, and the other by eight horses. As they were followed by about a dozen guards, we supposed, erro- neously, as it afterwards appeared, that they contained the King and his suite, and immediately went to claim en- trance into the palace. We were ad- mitted, and were shewn through a few rooms, when we were desired to with- draw, as the King was passing through the grand gallery. We accordingly re- tired into a small room, from which, how- ever, we were soon summoned to resume 236 our promenade. I cannot call to my recollection the series of these apart- ments, nor am I competent to describe their brilliancy. Lustres, gilding, rich tapestry, pictures, mirrors, candelabras, every thing united which can give an idea of the union of grandeur and ele- gance ! What exquisite taste has Napo- leon evinced in providing accommoda- tions for his successors ! The Empress Maria Louisa's bed-chamber is a fairy pa- lace ; her boudoir the cabinet of the Graces. I doubt not that the recollection of St. Cloud will give an additional pang to the feelings both of her and her hus- band when they reflect upon their reverse of fortune. Returning by Passy we arrived at our hotel late in the evening, a little fa- tigued, but highly delighted with our ex- cursion. , Sunday, July loth. Soon after break- fast this morning I was honoured with a visit from the Baron . In the course of conversation with this gentle- man, as the Moniteur of the day was lying upon the table, I pointed to a speech. 237 which had been made the day before in the legislative body by one of the mem- bers, on the occasion of tlie death of his colleague ; and in which a vain attempt at the pathetic had produced an effusion triUy ridiculous. The Baron acknow- ledged, that such exhibitions were dis- graceful to a deliberative assembly. He observed, that during the most enrage crisis of the Revolution, the dead were interred without any ceremony ; and that at present, running into the other ex- treme, the Co7ys Legislatif had adopted the practice of eulogizing every one of its members who happened to die ; and that, as in ao large an assembly there must of course be found many whose talents and character were by no means of a superior cast, the panegyrists of the defunct were frequently reduced to great difficulties in the composition of their eloges ; and were tempted to deviate into bombast and common-place. He also disapproved of the practice of indiscriminately receiv- ing all the books which authors were pleased to present to the assembly, which filled its archives with trash, and debased 238 its journals by records of unmerited thanks. In this respect, indeed, how striking is the difference between the customs of England and of France ! What a sensation of mingled indignation and mirth would be excited in the British public, were the Honorable Mr. Spencer to appear at the bar of the Lower House, to present to the Commons of the United Kingdom a copy of his " Year of Sor- row;" or were Dr. Mavor to beg their ac- ceptance of his Latin Grammar! But I have seen recorded, with all gravity, jn the proces verbal of the Corps Legislatif^ the presentation of an " Ode on the Restora- tion of the Bourbons; " and the proceed- ings of August 9th were opened by "/7/(wn- mage d*ime production destinee d V instruc- tion de la jeunesse, et intitulee I* Abet lie Franfaise, par M. VAbbe Cordier.** On my remarking to the Baron, that I had seen at St. Cloud two or three equipages, which presented great incon- sistency in their equipments, as they con- sisted of old and shabby cabriolets, driven by postilions in very splendid liveries, he said that these equipages belonged to 239 some of the old noblesse, who by the events of the Revolution had been re- duced to a pitiable state of poverty ; and who, in consequence of the confirmation lately made of all the sales of national property were entirely dependent upon the court. The circumstances of these faithful adherents to their fallen fortunes pressed strongly upon the feelings of the Bourbons, who could not possibly provide for them in a manner consonant to their own wishes, or the expectations of the applicants. He said, that in many cases, whilst real merit was silent and modest, time-servers and pretenders were impor- tunately clamorous. The other day a person presented himself to the Abbe Montesquiou, advancing great claims upon the justice and the generosity of Loids le Desire. He had been the friend of the Royal cause during the worst of times, — the Bourbon family had always had his wishes and his prayers for their welfare — and he had been the most earnest of all their adherents in longing for their restoration. " Mais^ Monsieur ^^^ said the Abbe Montesquiou, who had 240 never heard of him before "Qu*est quevous cvezfaitV* — ** 3/o?, Monsieur y** repHed this ardent loyalist, " j*ai reste toujours tranquille" — " Eh bieriy continuez done, Monsieur, a rester tranquille,** was the rejoinder of the minister, who was, no doubt, happy to get rid of so troublesome a petitioner by a bon mot. In consequence of the horrors of the Revolution, which had destroyed, or driven into exile, so many thousands of the ministers of religion, and the subse- quent embarrassments which obstructed the process of education, learning, the Baron said, was at a low ebb among the clergy, whose labours are at present but scantily remunerated from the public treasury. The revenues of a bishopric do not average more than six hundred pounds sterling per annum. On my inquiring why such hard measure was dealt to Cardinal Mauiy, who had de- fended the cause of the Bourbons in the most stormy periods of the Revolution, and had not given it up to make his peace 'with the existing powers till it seemed to be hopeless, he informed me, that His 241 Eminence was sunk by the worthlessness of his private character, which was so indifferent, and his conduct so indeco- rous, that neither the Pope nor the King could possibly countenance him. He had been patronised by Bonaparte, on ac- count of his abilities, for that Napoleon tried every expedient to win men of talents over to his party. If they accepted his overtures, they were rapidly promoted in their several departments : but if they declined furthering his views, or admini- stering to his vanity, they became objects of persecution. This the Baron illus- trated in the history of a popular parish- priest, whose name I do not recollect. This ecclesiastic, who was celebrated as a preacher, had, upon various occasions in his public discourses, intermixed traits of eloquence which seemed to be, ob- liquely at least, directed against the Em- peror. Far from resenting this, in the first instance, Bonaparte sent for him to the Tuilleries, and, after paying him many compliments, intimated a msh to enrol him among the number of his friends. By these attentions the preju- R 242 , dices of the sacred orator were subdued j and for some time he became the pan«' gyrist of Bonaparte ; and, in return for his comphance, was remunerated by ^considerable church preferment. But, upon some unlucky occasion, reverting to his old habits, and, in a sermon during Lent, saying something to the disparage- ment of His Imperial Majesty, he was suddenly seized by order of government, and shut up in a lunatic asylum, w^here he was detained till he was convinced, that it was not only heresy but madness to impugn the proceedings of the powers that be. Of all the men of abilities who had figured upon the stage of the Revo- lution, Carnot had been the most steady in his opposition to Bonaparte. He had voted against his being appointed Consul for life ; and had declared his disappro- bation of his assumption of the Impeiiai dignity. His courage, however, had won the respect of Napoleon, who had suffered him to live in unmolested retire- ment. But when the Allies had entered France, and Bonaparte was surroumded by difficulties, he addressed to him a letter, 243 in which, after reminding liim that, in the days of his si)lendor and prosperity, he had studiously kept aloof from him ; he de- clared that he was ready to render him his best services in the season of his distress. It is an instance of the deci- sion of Bonaparte's character, that, in consequence of this letter, he entrusted the man, who had so long been his de- clared enemy, with the defence of the important city of Antwerp. At noon I attended service at the Pro- testant church, which is situated near the Old Louvre. The building is a large one of Greciari architecture. The order of the service is, in almost all respects, si- milar to that of the Church of Scotland, or of the Protestant dissenters in England. The minister, Mons. Marron, is, as his cross denoted, a member of the legion of honour. His discourse w^as eloquent, but not profound. He did not speak extem- pore, but read both his prayers and his sermon ; in the delivery of the latter, he used, with a good deal of management, much appropriate gesticulation. The singing was mean and drawling, though R 2 244 it was assisted by a well-toned organ. Much decency of deportment was ob- served by the audience, which appeared to be composed of the middle orders of the community. Towards the close of the service, the preacher gave notice, that an English sermon would be preached in the evening, by a Mr. Smith, in the Protestant church, me St.Antoine. When Mons. Marron had dismissed his congregation, I went to walk in the gar- den of the Tuilleries. On my way thither, I found the Carousel occupied by several squadrons of cavalry, who were passing in review. The spectacle was very brilliant. As to the quality of the troops I can say nothing, only that the horses, though active, appeared to me to be very slight. When the reviewing ge- neral passed along the line, the officers cried Vive le Roiy but this cry was re-echoed by very few of the men ; the great majority of whom maintained a sulky silence. After the troops were dismissed, with some difficulty I penetrated to the gar- dens, where I found a tolerably large 245 groupe, principally composed of elderly people, who were anxiously waiting to catch a glimpse of their King on his re- turn from mass. Whether they were gratified I know not, as without stopping I passed on to enjoy the coolness diffused by the fountains, which were all playing in honour of the day. The walks on the right were crowded with people, among whom, the brilliancy of their scarlet uni- forms, soon attracted my attention to three British officers. I was disgusted at observing, that as these gentlemen passed and repassed, they were stared at and examined by the Parisians in a manner which I thought very offensive ; and as I moved in the crowd, at a little distance, I heard many flippant and unhandsome remarks made upon them, and my coun- tiymen in general. Whatever may have been the case in former times, good breeding is not now the characteristic even of well-di^essed Frenchmen, and Englishmen are far from being popular in this metropolis. Having walked for two hours I went to the Palais Royal to dine- On my way R 3 246 thither I found in the Carousel the fol- lowing notice of cheap living: — **Au nu- mero 5, rue St. Thomas^ pour 25 sous on donne potagCy 3 plats d choij:^ dessertf petite verre (Teau de vie. Ou im dessert, pain, icn carafon de bon vin, ou une bou- teiUe de bierre.^* While I was at dinner there suddenly came on a shower of rain, which de- scended like a bursting water-spout. As it occurred without any previous indica- tion of its approach, it fell, without notice, upon the motley crowds who were as- sembled in the gardens of the Palais Royal, who fled in all directions, to tlie no amall amusement of those who» like myself, enjoyed the '* suave nmri magno" from the windows of the restau- rateur. This incident prevented me from attending, as it was my intention to have done, to hear the English ser* mon of Mr. Smith ; so, after reading the London newspapers at Riche's, I re- turned at an early hour to our hotel. Monday, July nth. As I was well aware, that, on my return home, my fe- male acquaintance would ask a thousand 247 questions, more than I could answer, with respect to the French fashions, and wishing to gratify the curiosity of certain of my fair friends on this most important topic, I purchased at a print shop, in the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, twenty-four neatly executed prints of the prevailing costume of the Parisian belles. Among other engravings which were here exposed to sale, I ob- served a caricature of Bonaparte, taking a lesson on dignity of manner from Talma. In tliis print, the tall and well-propor- tioned actor is represented standing in an easy and graceful attitude ; in endea- vouring to imitate which, the little Em- peror twists his diminutive body into a violent contortion. I asked the print- seller how he would dispose of his stock of this caricature, when Napoleon was re-established upon the throne. He turned pale at the very idea of this event, and said, " Woe be to us if he should ever return." After amusing myself some time with this man's collection, I proceeded to the library, where I em- ployed myself in making out a catalogue R 4 248 of manuscript letters of Poggio Braccio- lini, hitherto inedited, which I wished to get copied. Thence I went to the Palais Royal, and in passing, was not a little amused on obsening, on one of the pillars of the Theatre Fran9ais, the following attempt at an English adver- tisement, — ** Hardy Cook, living to the Louvre on the West Gate un der the vestibule, old emplacement of late M. KoUiker. He will serve you with list, and he has parlours and privates rooms, receives Society, and has always some Shoucroute and Disters of Caucale. Nota he as wines of Bordeaux firts quality.'* This elaborate qffiche did not, however, seduce me from Beldame's, where I dined as usual. After dinner, I called at a jeweller's under one of the piazzas of the Palais-Royal, and purchased a crotj: d*hon- neuTy formerly given by Napoleon, a few of which were exhibited for sale in the window of the shop. When I had con- cluded my bargain with Madame la Mar- chande, who charged me only one-third more than its value, a dark-visaged gen- tleman who was present, took out his 249 pocket-book, and producing from it a cross, somewhat larger than that which I had bought, said, with emotion, ** This I received from the Emperor's own hand ;'* and immediately commenced an harangue in commendation of Bona- parte. This harangue was by no means approved by the lady, who reprobated the anti-commercial system of Napoleon, which, she said, would, had he not been de- posed, have soon involved France in utter ruin. She also animadverted, with severity upon the spirit of plunder and devasta- tion that he had infused into the French troops, which, she observed, had drawn down upon her countrymen the hatred of all the countries in which they had carried on military operations. This drew from her ungallant antagonist a severe philippic against tradesfolks of all descriptions, whom he seemed to regard as born only to supply the wants of the soldiery. He commanded a company of foot, he said — and what was a w^hole district of bour- geoisie to him in comparison with his com- rades. If the bourgeoisie fed and lodged 250 them with a good grace — well. But, if they refused to provide for their wants, they should feel the visitation of free quarters. It is impossible to describe the horrible grimaces which were the appro- priate accompaniment of these sentiments, which have for so many years been the principles of action of the French army. On my opening my pocket-book to de- posit my purcliase in it, I observed his eye glance with ciu'iosity on a rouleau of bank of England notes, out of which 1 selected a most superlatively dirty and ragged one, and told him that this was the index of England's prosperity — that it was almost our only circulating me- dium, by virtue of which we had with- stood all the power of Bonaparte, and finally hurled him from his throne. 'JTlie soldier gazed on the filthy remnant with stupid astonishment — but the lady, with a degree of philosophy which would have excited the applause of Mr. Van- sittart, had he been present, said, " All depends upon confidence. You cannot eat gold any more than paper ;' and if 251 the public faithfully agree that this p^per shall represent so much provision, it is all well." After dinner I accompanied Mr. Y. to the Theatre Francois, Two pieces were represented this evening. The first was Edoimrd en Ecosse, a serious drama, founded on the adventures of the Pretender, after the battle of CuUo- den. The incidents of the story of course gave rise to many speeches on the subject of hereditary claims which were loudly applauded. Abuse of the house of Hanover did not, however, sound grateful to English ears, and the play was on the whole dull and monotonous, like the Royal Oak and similar com- positions, depending for success upon the striking situations into which the charac- ters are occasionally thrown, and upon sentiments which suit the feelings of the day. Edouard en Ecosse was followed by the Plaideurs of Racine. This is one of those works which will live for ever. In it nature is pourtrayed in the most lively colours, and satire is employed for the noblest purpose, the correction of 252 folly and the reformation of abuse. It was performed in a capital style ; and the liveliness of the audience, from its commencement to its close, evinced the deep interest which this ancient stock piece still excites in a Parisian theatre. Tuesday, July 12th. At ten o*clock I went to the Royal Library, where I had the pleasure to meet Mons. Langles, who, with his usual politeness, made an arrangement for the purpose of procur- ing Mr. Y. a sight of the Royal col- lection of Drawings, at present under the care of the celebrated Mons. Denon. Thence I drove to the Bureau de la Police^ where, on my application, the passport with which I had come to France was restored to me. To enable me to return to England this passport was to be countersigned by the Prince de Benevento. I accordingly hastened with it to the office of Foreign Affairs, and was directed to leave it till to- morrow, when I was assured that, on paying ten franks, I should receive it with the proper endorsement. Here I was joined by Mr. Y., who aceompa- 253 nied me to the GobelmeSy into which, however, we could not gain admittance, as we were not provided with tickets from the director of the manufactory, and had arrived after the hour when it is open to strangers. We therefore went forward to tlie Ette des Pastes, where I made a farewell call upon my friend the veteran Pinel, and then proceeded to the Jar din des Plantes. We first walked down the main alley to observe the general disposition of the garden, which appears to be at once magnificent and convenient. A variety of conservatories contain the plants which require a climate still more genial than that of France ; and a large pond, supplied with water from the river, Ibrms a receptacle for the aquatic plants. Proceeding through a grove situated at the bottom of a gentle acclivity, we saw a fine cedar tree, which we were told was planted by Jussieu. Thence we proceeded to the Menagerie, Here we were astonished to see the neatness and comfort with which the different animals are accommodated. Of course the ferocious beasts are closely confined 5 2H but their dens are spacious, and kept scrupulously clean. The tame quadrupeds are kept in separate enclosures, in each of which is a thatched shed or cottage, to which at their pleasure they retire for shelter. As these cottages are all of different forms, and as the enclosures are made in the midst of trees of dif- ferent growths, the various species of deer, sheep, goats, and horned cattle, all seeming in their appropriate abodes to enjoy their existence, constitute a singu- lar and interesting picture. Round a paddock secured by strong beams of tim- ber, a crowd was assembled waiting for the appearance of an elephant, who had retreated into his castle, whence his keeper at length summoning him, he eyed the multitude with all the ap- pearance of contemptuous indifference. In another enclosure a collection of monkies seemed, by their grinning and diattering, to be quite at home in Paris — and in two large areas sunk deep in the ground, and well fenced with armed rails, four or five bears, mounting up knotted posts with an activity, whicli. contrasted with their clumsy make, was truly astonishing, afforded an infinite fund of amusement to the spectators. Our conductor lamented that we had visited the garden on a day when it was open to the populace of Paris. To me, however, this circumstance was no sub- ject of sorrow, as in my view the various emotions, manoeuvres, and contortions of the spectators constituted a very amusing part of the show. Quitting the wild beasts we visited the Museum of Anatomy. Here the first object pointed out to us w as the skeleton of the assassin of General Kleber. This wretched enthusiast was impaled alive, and though two of his lower vertebraewere broken by the stake, he lived in torture for some hours. His calcined bones too well attest the ferocity with which his execu- tioners burnt the flesh from the hand which committed the murder, by which he sought to avenge the wrongs inflicted on his country. It becomes the policy and the humanity of the French to remove this memorial of their cruelty, which tends only to preserve the remembrance 256 of their disgrace, and to brutalize the minds of the spectators. The most re- markable object which I saw in this col- lection was the skeleton of a Cameleo- pardalis. It does not as yet possess any of the bones of the Mammoth. On leaving the Botanic Garden we were struck with the beauty of the bridge of Austerlitz, which stands opposite to its principal entrance, and forms a com- munication between this quarter and the Boulevard Bourdon. This bridge, as its name imports, was constructed by Na- poleon. Its piers are of stone, but its arches are formed of iron, and have a lightsome air which produces a handsome effect. We now proceeded to the house of a dealer in drawings, and looked over a collection of designs of the ancient mas- ters ; several of which were excellent in point of execution, and in high preserva- tion. We then dined at a restaurateur* s opposite to the palace of the Luxembourg. From the windows of the cabaret where our couvert was served, we saw the break- ing up of the Chamber of Peers, whose lO 257 costume and equipages constituted a mucli more splendid shew than we had witnessed e\en at the Court. In tlie evening we attended at the Grand Opera. The opera was Akeste ; — the music, as usual, horribly loud and bad ; — the . decorations and dancing excellent. The ballet was the Danso7name, in which Ma- dame Gardel and Vestris excited and merited the applause of a most attentive multitude of spectators. As nothing can afford a more striking, and, at the same time, a more amusing proof of the im- portance which is attached, in this coun- try, to the art of dancing, than the self- satisfied and consequential preface pre- fixed by the author to the prGgramme of this Folie Pantomime, I will transcribe it for the edification of my readers : *' Depuls le 5 Mars 1793 (v. sJ) epoque d laquelle J'ai dome mon dernier ouvrage {le Ballet de Paris) je snis reste dans une apparente oisivete. Je m'en sicis milk Jots di'sespcrS ; mes amis s*en sont plaints j d'autres personnes nfont denonce cojiime coupable de sterilitc. Tai oppose a mon desespoiry ma raison (c'est pen) ; aita: s 258 , plaintes de mes aviisy les motifs de cette uisivete (c*est assez) ; ei j*ai laisse parkr et ecrire les mitres (c*est beaitcoi/p'). Alois eiijiriy arrive au moment de soinnetti-e une de mes nouvelles productions muv himieres du p2il>Ucy je lid dots totde la rerite; je projite done de cette circonstance pour lid assurer que^ penetre des encouragemens qiCil n hien voulu me donner dans les dif- ferens essais que je lid ai presentcs^ je me seroisjuge moi-meme indigne de ses bontes, sij'avois neglige de Jaire de ?iouvelles ten^ tatives pour les meriter reellement. Je n*ai done cesse de travailler, et malgre toutes les difficultes qu'ime injinite de circonstajices pourront pent-etre encore m^qffrir^ je tra- vaillerai toNJours. D(jd rues travaux m^ont valu qiiatre ouvrages remits par les direrses administrations, indcpendamment de plu- sicurs autres que gemissent en porte-Jeaille, de leur inutilite. Cependant me voiln af- ficlie : est-ce un ballet queje vais presenter ? Non ; c*est une plaisanterie, une veritable blitette, un 7ien ; sa?is autre espece de pre- tention que cede d'offrir, sous le masque de la gaietSy les graces et les divins talens que le Public chcrit a tant de titres. Je lui ^59 demande justice pour eux^ et pour moije reclame, toute so?i iiidulgence." Wednesday, July 1 3tli. At ten o'clock Mr.Y. accompanied me to the Bib/iotheque Roijalcy where we were received by Mons. Langlcs. Under his auspices we were permitted minutely to examine the HeureSy or Prayer-book of Louis XIV. and that of Anne of Austria, both MSS. in vellum, and enriched with illuminations and miniature paintings of the most ex- quisite execution. But more than these I prized a sight of Petrarch's celebrated MS. copy of Virgil, in which is inscribed his note on Laura. This MS. is a folio, very distinctly written, and in fine pre- servation. It was formerly deposited in the Ambrogian Library at Milan, but was conveyed from thence by Bonaparte, as one of the most precious spoils of war. I w^as next admitted into the cabinet of Coins and Medals, which, as it is well known, is the most extensive and the most valuable existing in the world. The whole of these treasures of antiquity was offered to my inspection; but I restricted myself to the copper coins of the Roman Empire, s a 260 ill examining which I was aided by one of the attendants, who acted in the dou- ble capacity of curator and interpreter. It would ill become me to forego this occasion of publicly acknowledging the friendly zeal with which this gentle- man, when he found that I took an inte- rest in the medallic science, aided my re- searches, and pointed out to me the pieces which were particularly worthy of obser- vation on account of their rarity, or the excellence of their preservation. From the library wc went to the shop of De Bure llie bookseller, which con- .sists of a range of apartments retired from the street, and on one side com- manding theviewof awell-})lanted garden. Here we made some purcliases at a very reasonable rate. Books of all descriptions are much cheaper in France than in Eng- land, where, as M.de Bure observed, the prices are become intolerable to people of moderate fortunes. Thursday, July 14. For some years after the commencement of the Revolu- tion, this day was observed as a high fes- tival in commemoration of the taking of 261 the Bastille. It is now marked in the Court Calendar with an " euccidat ilk dies I past the former part of the morning at the Library. At noon Mr. Y. and I went to attend a sitting of the Legisla- tive Body. On our entrance into the great gateway, we were stopped by a military guard, but on our announcing ourselves as Englishmen were permitted to proceed. We then made our way into an anti-room, when a door-keeper dressed in livery told us we could not be ad- mitted into the gallery without tickets ; but on my observing to him, that my friend the Baron had informed me that tickets were not necessary, he open- ed a door and introduced us into the body of the hall. Here we found two or three members of the Corps Legislatif, ^ijid about half a dozen ladies. The hall is a very handsome room in the form of an half oval. It is ornamented with six statues, representing Lycurgus, 8olon, Demos- thenes, Brutus, Cato, and Cicero. Un- der the president's chair are two figures in bas-reHef of History and Renown. S3 262 Immediately below the president are stools appointed for the huissiers. One or two benches, cpvered with blue lea- ther, are appropriated to such of the King's ministers as may have occasion to attend the assembly. On the entrance of several members, clothed in their full costume, a blue coat ornamented with gold lace, we withdrew into the gallery, the front bench of which was reserved for the ladies. When the president had taken his chair, he gave notice of the commencement of business by ringing a bell. The proces verbal of the last sit- ting was then read, and the presentation of two or three pamphlets was announ- ced. A member then rose, walked across the room, and ascending the tribune, read a speech proposing a free import and export of commodities into France, which was received with murmurs of dis- approbation. When the orator, if ora- tor he might be called, had finished by a motion, one or two members rose, and waddling across the floor, mounted the rostrum in succession, and said a very few words, after which the question was '263 put, and it was almost unanimously agreed, that " there was no room to dehberate" upon tlie proposition which had been just made. The president then proceeded to read the result of several ballots for committees, after which he terminated the sitting. Though tliis day's proceedings were tar from being interesting, there was such a disposition to tumult among the members, that the president w^as obliged two or three times to reduce them to order by ringing his bell. The reading of speeches has a very flat effect, and the transit from the benches to the tribune must tend to damp a speaker's fire. Many years must elapse before theCorpsLegislatifof France will emulate the well-regulated activity and promptitude of our House of Com- mons. From the Corps Legislatif, we went to the Luxembourg for the purpose of viewing the chamber, in which the peers hold their assemblies. Entrance was at first refused us, but a little importunity at length obtained us admittance. After passing through a large hall, we arrived s 4 264 at the grand staircase, which is very magnificent and handsome. We were surprized to find it decorated by statues of Vergniaux, Bainave, and Mirabeau, upon which tlic Ex-emperor must have looked with no friendly eye. Those of Hoche and Kleber were no doubt erected by his special order. After traversing a spacious anti-room we entered the Cham- ber of the Peers. Here the first object which attracted our attention was the throne, still supported by the imperial ea- gles, highly gilt and ornamented. To the right and left stood chairs, which are oc- casionally occupied by the great officers of state. The peers are alsa provided with chairs covered with red velvet, which occupy the body of the room. On the pannels of the chamber are ar- ranged immense pictures, the subjects of which are the warlike exploits of Na- poleon. These pictures are now, prepa- ratory to their removal, carefully cover- ed with green baize. Beyond the hall of assembly are three committee rooms, the furniture of which consists of blue velvet. The whole range of these cliara- 26:) bers is worthy the nobihl y of a mighty kingdom. In spleiulour and elegance of decoration tiiey are only second to St. Cloud. From the Luxembqiii'g we proceeded to the church of the Pantheon. This is celebrated as one of tlie most classical edifices in Paris. Its portico is iiTagni- ficent, its dome grand and lightsome, and its interior at once vast and simple in its ordonnance. On an entablature on the pediment of the portico is the following inscription :— AVX GRANDS HOMMES LA PATRIE RECON- NOISS ANTE. According to the tenoiir of this inscription the vaults underneath the church are appropriated to the recep- tion of the remains of men of distin- guished merit. We descended into these gloomy repositories, where I saw the tombs of many " great men," of w^hom I had never heard before. In one of the arcades, our guide pointed out to us the cenotaphs of Rousseau and Voltaire. The position of these cenotaphs is cer- tainly not the most happy. Consecrated 126(5 precincts are by no means an appropriate receptacle for a monument, erected in ho- nour of the contemner of revealed reli- gion ; and the Isle of Poplars is a much more suitable resort for the departed spirit of the enthusiastic admirer of nature, than the dank gloominess of a catacomb. Two priests who had joined the party and ac- companied us in our visit to the mansions of the dead, evidently contemplated the memorials of these arch-heretics with sentiments of alarm and disgust. We dined to-day at our hotel, and my passport being arrived, I took my place in the diligence, w hich was to set out the next day for Rouen, and spent the evening in making preparations for my journey home. At five o'clock in the morning of Friday, July 1 5th, having taken leave of Mr. Y., who intended to return home by the way of Holland, I took my seat in the Rouen dili- gence, in which I had the good fortune to meet with three very agreeable travelling companions, whose conversation beguiled the tediousness of the journey. Oiu" route 267 lay througli St.Dciiis, Pontoise, Magny, Boiirge-BuLidoin, andlbrgelerette. This route is by no means so interesting as that by Vernon and St.Germaine, which cir- cumstance diminished the regret which I experienced at the idea of being boxed up in the moving dungeon of a French stage coach. We arrived at Rouen in the even- ing ; and early on the ensuing morning, Sa- turday, July 1 6th, I proceeded to Dieppe. This journey I made alone in a cabriolet, in which post horses conveyed me at the rate of seven English miles an hour. At the gates of Dieppe my passport was examined by the corporal of the guard, and on its being found perfectly regidar I was allowed to proceed to the Hotel du VaquehoU where I was instantly recognized and received with a landlord's welcome by Mons. Roland. Nearly opposite to the windows of my dining room lay a packet boat, in which I took my passage. The captain proposed sailing at nine o'clock in the evening. At about seven, as I was lounging on the quay in profound me- ditation, I was awakened from my reverie 268 by an acquaintance who had just arriveOl from England, and who gratified me by the communication of some interesting news, both domestic and political. As on my voyage to France I had experi- enced the inconvenience of neglecting to secure a birth, at nine o'clock 1 repaired on board our vessel, and retired to bed, where I soon fell fast asleep. At four in the morning 1 awoke, and hastening on deck to observe wliat progress v/c had made, was astonished to fmd that we were still moored in the dock of Dieppe. Neither the captain nor any of his crew were visible ; but 1 learnt from a custom- house officer who was appointed to watch the packet, in order to jirevent the in- troduction of contraband goods, that as the evening was rather stormy, it was not thought advisable to pass the jetty till this morning's tide. At five o'clock I quitted the vessel, and amused myself with attending the early parade of two battalions of foot which constitute part of the garrison. I next took a farewell view of the churches, and after breakfast- '269 iiig at KoUnul's, I once more repaired to the packet, which was towed out of the harbour at about half past ten o'clock. Tlie w ind was fair, but very light ; and in the ai'ternoon we had nearly a dead calm. We liad, however, a roomy boat and in- telligent company ; so with the occa- sional aid of a book I passed the time \ery pleasantly. After sleeping another night on board, I arrived at about three in the afternoon of Monday, July i8th, at Brighton, from wlience I proceeded without loss of time, by way of London, to Liverpool. On my arrival in London I was inform- ed by my friends, that many Englishmen who had visited Paris since the peace, had returned home extremely disappoint- ed in the expectation of pleasure, which had induced them to cross the Channel. The experience of these individuals does not, however, at all accord with -mine. During my stay in the French metropolis I spent my time most agreeably ; and I shall ever look back upon this excursion with sentiments of high satisfaction. As to many of my countrymen who are dis* pleased with France, I cannot help think- ing that the fault is in themselves. Un- reasonable expectations are ever mor- tified. One man finds no carpets on the floors of the French inns, and he instantly exclaims that on the continent comfort is unknown. Another meets with a dish to which he is a stranger — he reconnoitres it, as if he were in fear of poison — he just tastes and does not li,ke it — and then curses the French cookery by the hour. A third discovers, after some pains-taking, that the wnne of the country will sooner disorder his bowels than his head, and he becomes absolutely outrageous. Multitudes are ignorant of the French language ; and, too proud to set about learning it, they make their w^ay through the public spec- tacles of Paris by the aid of a valet de place, who has a smattering of English ; and when they return home they declare that the metropolis of France furnishes no good society. People of this character would do well to stay at home, and 5 271 delegate tlie emi)loyment of travelling to men of moderate views. These will acknowledge that on the route to Paris either by Calais or Dieppe, they find good apartments, clean beds, good wine, and if they are not absolutely bigotted to beef stakes — good cookery. In Paris a man may live as he pleases. He may dine at his pleasure for two louis or for twenty-five sous. Lodgings also may be had of various prices, according to the views and the purse of the traveller ; but it may be observed, that from time immemorial, lodgings have, in Paris, beeTi for their quality estimated as rather dear. The j)ublic amusements of tliis metro- polis have been so long and so loudly ce- lebrated, that it is superfluous to re- mark, they afford, for every unemployed evening, a cheap and an elegant amuse- ment. To the man of letters, Paris is a most eligible residence. The stores of its public libraries, especially of the Biblio- theque Royale, afford him an exhaustless fund of materials for studv. The faci- 572 lity of access to these treasures of know- ledge claims tlie thankful acknowledge- ment even of the transient visitor ; much more so must it excite the grateful ap- plause of those who, devoting themselves to some special literary object, are in- dulged with the free use of the most })recious documents, and are aided in their researches by the liberality of some of the first scholars of the age. Not less powerful is the charm which attracts the lover of the hue arts to the metropolis of France. Here is esta- blished the public school of the world for the study of painting and scidpture. Here the man of liberal education con- templates those forms which have been depicted to his fancy in early life — and the artist acquires those practical lessons which are only to be obtained by minute examination of the works of the most distinguished masters. If the attracting of multitudes of wealthy and ingenious strangers to the capital of a great king- dom, be at all conducive to public pro- sperity, or diffusive fame, the transporta- 273 tion of the reliqucs of art and of the choicest paintings in Europe to Paris, was not merely the work of vanity — it was a master-stroke of policy. As I slowly paced the gallery of the Louvre, my attention was occasionally abstracted from the wonders with w hich I was surrounded by speculations upon the probable duration of the period when an Englishman will b^ able to visit these repositories of taste in the character of a friend and an ally. The pursuit of these speculations leads to a wide field of thought. The solving of the problem will, in the first place, depend upon the settlement of a preliminary enquiry : Will the government of the Bourbons be stable? And from every thing that I could observe during my visit to France, I am persuaded that the stability of the Bourbon dynasty will depend entirely upon the conduct of the heads of that illustrious house, and that they have not altogether an easy game to play. The allegiance of the great body of the army is more than doubtful. The troops are generally disaffected to them. I under- T 274 - stand also, that in consequence of their confirmation of the sales of confiscated property, the loyalty of the ancient no- blesse toward them is much impaired ; and with regard to the mass of the peo- ple, the enthusiasm in favour of Louis XVIII., of which we read so much in the Moniteur, appears merely on paper. Still, however, the mass of the people are friendly to the Bourbons. They were so oppressed by Bonaparte ; and the con- scription, in particidar, made such in- roads upon their domestic comforts, that though their joy is by no means ex- travagant, they are glad to see the throne filled by a monarch of a mild disposition, and a pacific character. It is to this quarter, then, that Louis must look for support. He must cherish his people — he must foster their arts, their commerce, and their manufactures. I will further observe, that if he would wish to establish liis throne upon a lasting foundation, he will do well to restrain notorious vices in his court, and to avoid, as bis greatest bane, the scan- 275 dal of pecimiiiry extravagance. The follies of Louis XV. are not forgot- ten, and the j)eo])le of France sliew every disposition to revolt against un- reasonable taxation. If any question should unfortunately arise between his people and himself, Louis XVIII. can- not rely upon the support of the army. Precluded then from governing by force, he can only govern by influence. And that influence is not to be maintain- ed by a priesthood, who have as yet no hold upon the public mind, but by prudence of personal conduct, and by wise and lenient measures of ad- ministration. Now, as far as personal character is concerned, it may be justly expected, that the present monarch will regulate his reign by these princi- ples : and when it is considered that the interest of the marshals is now strictly united to those of the present dynasty ; that the Peers also, and the Corps Legis- latif have irretrievably committed them- selves in the same cause, we may con- clude, that the House of Bourbon enjoys T 2 , 276 a reasonable prospect of swaying the sceptre of France for some generations to come. But the prospect of the continuance of peace is aifected by another circumstance, namely, the disposition of the people of France. And I am soiTy to state that I did not perceive in them any due sense of the blessings of public tranquillity. The minds of the army, both officers and privates, are bent upon violence and rapine, and they care not upon whom these are exercised. Their notions of warfare are not modified by the chivalrous spirit of modern times. They have even little regard for the welfare of their coun- try. Plunder and promotion are the main, articles of their creed ; and they are ready to draw the sword without enquir- ing against whom. Nor are the bulk of the people chastised into wisdom by the events which have lately occurred to humble them. They cannot be persuad- ed that any of the ordinary occurrences of war could have exposed the French anns to disaster and defeat. Their 277 language already begins to be lofty, and the nation at large seems to wish for an opportunity of redeeming the military credit, which, though they are too proud to acknowledge it, they are conscious they have lost. The animosity both of the, army and the people is most inveterate against Austria, which power they loudly accuse of treachery and cupidity, — poli- tical vices which they, very consistently no doubt, avow their wish to punish and restrain. On England also they look with an evil eye. They cannot bear "to think of our naval power, and they con- template with all the jealousy of rivalry our commercial prosperity. The com- plaints of the prisoners of war whom we have lately dismissed in such numbers, are too readily listened to, and aggravate feelings in themselves sufficiently turbu- lent. Upon the whole, then, I cannot help fearing that the halcyon days, which in the imagination of so many worthy men lately followed each other in end- less succession, will not be of so long duration as has been expected. Where 278 much inflammable matter is collected, the smallest spark may produce an ex- tensive conflagration. The ensuing con- gress will constitute the most important period ir^ the history of modern times. Nothing but the most consummate pru- dence on the part of the negociators, who will be there assembled, can long pro- tract the revival of the horrors of war. TRANSLATIONS OF TOE FRENCH PASSAGES. P. 2 1. 1. 3. — Indeed you are very little eaters, P. 25. L19. — Those born to consume pro- visions. P. 30. 1. 12. — Indeed, Sir, he is an excellent man. P. 33. 1. 10. — Very handsome and extremely interesting. P. 8 1 . 1.21. — Where reign the people, up- roar lords it wide ; Reason is dumb — honours are set to sale, Sedition triumphs ; and the petty sovereigns, Created for a year, blast the fair fruit Of wisest enterprize, lest their successors Should share the glory. Of the public harvest Largely they reap, assured of ready pardon From those who wait their coming turn of rapine. Of all the forms of civil sway the worst Is a Repubhc. P. 82. 1. 10. — By such events heaven has too plainly shewn It hates assassins — punishes the thankless ; 28o And, spite of every bold emprize, avenges The fall of thrones, by power divine established. ' Whom God anoints he ever will support ; Long bleeds the wound by which their lives are closed. P. 107. 1. 14. — Yes, Sir. When I lost her, I lost all my happiness. P. 1 1 1. 1. 1. — But ah ! the cruel sheers ! — Ye wood-nymphs, haste — Avert the crime Alas, the deed is done ! Their verdant shoots have felt the trenchant steel. No more the whispering wind with lightsome breath Waves their tall smnmits, murmurs through their leaves. And gently dies away. Cold, stiff, and dead, They stand as motionless as the dull metal WTiich laid their honours prostrate in the dust. P. 1 16. Li 7. — I must have money, a deal of money, P. 121. 1.13. — Yes, Sir, properly checked and signed, with an exact description of their countenances. P. 122. 1. 1. — It was for a state affair. Ibid. 1.3. — I was suspected by Robespierre. P. 164. 1.5. — I understand you. He has eaten heartily and slept soundly. Fine prepa- 28l rations these for conducting the affairs of a great kingdom ! P. 179. 1. 14. — Had no fondness for build- ing. P. 1 84. 1. 24. — You, whose firm soul, and fifteen years of sorrow Render you more august and more beloved. P. 185. 1.6. — Still in my ears resounds the thrilling cry Save — Save the King, — his Spouse, — his royal offspring ! I see the ensanguined walls, the burning portals, The shrieking females crush'd 'neath smoking ruins, The flying slaves — whilst tumult and aifright, Arms, brands, and death in ghastliest form, sur- round me. Ibid. l.ig. — The wild ambition which de- vours his soul Is restless, fiery, and holds nothing sacred. If fi"om Amphrysus he has chased the robbers. If he has saved Messenia, he regards them As his by conquest. For himself alone He draws the sword. He aims at tyrant power, And grasps with hand unhallowed at the crown, In quest of which he beats down every barrier. Corrupts the laws, and sheds the purest blood, u 2*2 P. 1 86. 1. 1 1. — A chieftain such as I may sure pretend To rule the state which owes to him its safety. The first of kings was a victorious soldier. Ibid. 1.19. — No, no ! their cruel bands be- set his gates. He is surrounded by the faithless crowd Of fawning courtiers, who in former days Walked in my train, or crouched beneath my sceptre. P. 198. — Can-efauTf a place where four streets cross. P. 215. 1.12. — So says the learned Priestley ; but I am of a diiFerent opinion. P. 233. 1.6. — Why so, Miss? — Because he got all our lovers killed. P. 238. 1.17. — The homage of a production designed for the instruction of youth, and en- titled " The French Bee," by the Abbe Cor- dier. P. 240. 1. 1. — But, Sir, what have you done? — I, Sir? I have always been quiet. — Well, then, continue to be quiet. P. 246. 1.2. — At No. 25, Rue St. Thomas, for 25 sous gentlemen may have soup, three dishes of their ovm choice, a dessert, and a small glass of brandy. Or a dessert, bread, 283 a small decanter of good wine, or a bottle of beer. P. 257. 1.20. — Since the 5tli of March, 1793, tlie epoch when I produced my last work, " Tlie Ballet of Paris," I have remained in an apparent indolence. I have been a thou- sand times reduced to despair by this circmn- stance ; my friends have complained of it ; Other persons have denounced me as guilty of sterility. I have opposed to my despair my reason — it is a trifle ; to the complaints of my friends, the motives of this indolence — that is sufficient; and I have let others write and talk — that is much. But at length being arrived at the period when I am about to submit one of my new productions to the enlightened criticism of the public, I think myself obliged to speak the whole truth. I avail myself, then, of this cir- cumstance to assure the public, that, deeply affected by the encouragement which they have been pleased to afford me in the different essays which I have presented to them, I 'should have deemed myself unworthy of their kindness, had I neglected to make new attempts really to merit their indulgence. I have not then geased to work, and in spite of all the difficulties which an infinity of circumstances may perhaps still throw in my way, I will continue to work. My labours have already produced four pieces, 284 received by the different administrations, inde- pendently of several others which, shut up in my port-folio, mourn over their inutility. In the mean-time I am advertised, — Is it a ballet which I am about to produce ? No ; it is a piece of drollery, a hasty effusion — a nothing ; devoid of ^ny other pretension than that of bringing forward, under the mask of gaiety, the graces and the divine talents which the public have so many reasons to cherish. From that public, for them I demand justice, and for myself I crave indulgence. P. 261. 1.2. — May that day be blotted from Che records of time. THE END. Straliiiti niiii Piciton, I'riiiiir.-Siri'ei, lyunJoi UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY This book is DUI! on the last date stamped below MAR 6 rtcu APR ok dm I MAYI2 DEC 2 8 «93 Form L-e aOm-1, •41(1122) I36Z UmVMiSiXJf of UM^fu r Universily ol Calilornia. Los Angeles L 006 846 255 5 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY A A 00010