BBB THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES VIEW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE DURING THE REIGN OF CATHARINE THE SECOND, AKD TO THE CLOSE OF THE PRESENT CENTURY. By WILLIAM TOOKE, F. R. S. MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES AND OF THE FREE ECONOMICAL SOCIETY AT ST. PETERSBURG. THREE VOLUMES, VOL. I. LONDON: FOR T. N. LONGMAN AND o. REES, PATER- NOSTER-ROW; AND J. DEBRETT, PICCADILLY. 1799. y M ADVERTISEMENT, npHE Ruffian Empire, which in various fefpefts how fixes the attention of Europe, has for feveral years been the fubjeft of a multitude of inveftigations and writings, by which the know- ledge of that country is confiderably improved and enlarged. The care which Catharine the fecond, from her firft acceflion to the throne, and during the whole of her reign^ devoted to the cultivation of this knowledge, has been attended with fo much fuccefs, that RufTia, which, prior to the year 1762, was a fort of terra incognita in our part of the globe, is now in pofieflion of a very confiderable ftore of mate- rials, from which the prefent date of this re- markable country may be illuftrated and defcribed. The firft and mofl important flep to the eluci- dation of the natural and moral condition of Ruflia was the appointment of the academicians of St. Petersburg to travel, for the purpofe of exploring its qualities in both thefe refpects ; and their journals ftill form the bafis of all that we know with certainty of the internal ftate of A 2 this 870760 IV ADVERTISOIEttT, this extenfive empire. Thefe important drf- coveries aflifced the zeal of fome. induflrious foreigners, who either in the country itfelf, or by correfpondence and connexions, collected ufeful materials, and communicated the refult of their labours to the public. By the introduction of the governments, which, befides the beneficial effects they produced on the political admini- flration of the empire, greatly ailifted the know-, ledge of the country ; by the admeafurement and furvey of the diftticls afligned them, which facilitated the conftrucuon of fpecial charts on a more accurate plan ; by the more adequate enumeration of the people, &c. but, above all, by the wife and enlightened publicity with which it was allowed to Weat of thefe matters, this knowledge acquired fuch a powerful acceffion, that the idea of a fyftematical digeft of all the necefiary materials was no longer to be con- fidered as a vain fpeculation. Bufching, at firft, and after him Meffrs. Schloetzer, Herrmann, Hupel, and laftly Storch, drew up their topo- graphies and ftatiftics of the empire. Still, how- ever, the voluminous journals of the acade- micians lay unopened to this country, and the travels of Pallas, Guldenftgedt, Georgi, Lepe- chin, Falk, the Gmelins, Fifcher, and others were in England known only by the occafional mention ADVERTISEMENT. V mention of their extraordinary value, with de- ferved encomiums on the talents and labours of their authors, in the reports of our countrymen on their return from a tranfient vifit to St. Peterfburg. Having pafled the greater part of the long reign of the late*emprefs in her dominions, favoured for many years with the friendmip and intimacy of two fucceflive directors of the aca.. demy, with free accefs to its libraries and col- lections, and being perfonally acquainted with feveral of the travellers themfelves, I prefume to lay before the public this View of the Ruffian Empire, in which I have faithfully followed the authors abovementioned, and delivered my vouchers wherever it was neceffary, as the reader will generally find at the foot of the pages. I have beftowed much care and pains in the compilation of this work from the learned writers abovementioned and other authentic fources ; and this is all the merit to which I pretend ; yet would it be the height of arrogance to expect that it can be free from faults ; thefe mufl be fubmitted to the indulgence of the reader : how- ever, amidft the great variety of matter, and the feveral authors in various languages confulted, I am far more apprehenlive that fome things mould, in fpite of all my diligence, be found repeated, than that any thing of confequence A3 is VI ADVERTISEMENT. is omitted. Fine flowing periods and the finifhed graces of diftion are certainly not to be expecled in a work of this nature ; and if I have not failed in rendering it both interefting and entertaining I (hall be perfeftly fatisfied. Ruffia, an empire but little known or regarded in the lafl century, at the opening of the prefent made her appearance all at once among the dates of Europe \ arid, after a fhort trial of her powers, became the umpire and the arbitrefs of the North. The whole fyftem of Europe took another form ; the arftic eagle extended her influence to the regions of the Adriatic and the banks of the Tagus, while the lightning of her eye (truck ter- ror into the recefles of mount Caucafus and made the Hellefpont tremble. The arts of Europe were tranfplanted and bloomed both on the mores of the Neva and thofe of the Irtyfh ; a new world was opened to commerce, and the fciences, the manners, the luxury, the virtues, and the vices of weftern Europe have found their way into the defcrts of oriental Afia, and to the inhofpitable coafts of the Frozen-ocean. The asra of thefe remarkable phenomena was the commencement of the eighteenth century *. Arrived * In the ycnr 1697 Peter the Great began his fir (I journey into foreign countries. In 1699 he crncludcd the with the Porte, by which he acquired Azof, and ADVERTISEMENT. Vll Arrived now at the extreme verge of that period, it muft -be curious and inftrudtive to look back and compare the two epochas together. To confider what Ruflia was at the beginning of this century, to fee what the fuccefibrs of Peter have built on the foundation laid by that great and afpiring genius, what progrefs has been fmce made by civilization, and what impreflion the rapid and violent introduction of foreign manners, the fettlement of fo many thoufand foreigners, and the intercourfe with foreign nations, have produced. In order to fatisfy himfelf on thefe particulars, the reader will here fee a complete arrangement as far as it goes, of flatements drawn from au- thentic fources, of fads related by eye witnefies of what they deliver, men of fcience fent out for the exprefs purpofe of collecting information on the (late of the countries they were to vifit, furnimed on their expedition with every accom- modation that could pofiibly be procured, for facilitating their inquiries and freeing their minds from all folicitudes about collateral objects of was enabled to conftrud a navy on the Euxine. In 1700 the battle of Narva was fought, where the Swedes for the lafl time fhevetj their fupcriority in difcipline and the arts of war. A 4 fecurity Vlll ADVERTISEMENT. fecurity and fubfiftence. The fame generous patronage and care was continued to them on their return : they fat down in eafe and affluence to commit the refult of their inquiries to paper ; and the fubftance of what they relate will be found in the following pages. This is all that feems necefiary for me to fay ; and I humbly conclude in the words of the hiflorian : " Si in tanta " fcriptorum turba mea fama in obfcuro fit ; " nobilitate & magnitudine eorum, qui nomini " efficient meo, me confoler." LONDON, June 20, 1799. INTRODUCTION. the middle of the year 1767, Catha- rine II. conceived the ufeful project of fending feveral learned men to travel into the interior of her vaft territories, to enable themfelves to determine the geographical pofition of the prin- cipal places, to mark their temperature, and to examine into the nature of their foil, their pro- ductions, their wealth, as well as the manners and characters of the feveral people by whom they are inhabited. A country of fuch a prodigious extent as the ruflian empire, muft naturally attract the notice of every man who wifhes to increafe his know- ledge, whether it be confidered in regard to the aftoniming* number of tribes and nations b^ which it is inhabited, the great diverfity of climates under which they live, or the almoft in- finite quantity of natural curiofities with which it abounds. But the greater part of this country is flill immerfed in the pro founded barbarifm, 4 and X INTRODUCTION. and aimed inacceffible to the invedigations of the ordinary traveller. Here vagrant hordes of people, W]IQ, entirely addicted to. the padoral life, roam from place to place, fliunning the focial manners of towns and villages, negligent of agriculture, and leaving uncultivated and almod in a defert-date vafl tracts of land blefled with the moil favourable foil and the mod happy tempe- rature of feafons : there, peafants, and even in many places inhabitants of towns, Haves to a thoufand prejudices, languishing in bondage to the mod flupid fuperftitions ; brought up, be- fides, in the fevered fervitude, and, being accuftonied to obey by no other means than blows, are forced to fubmit to the harmed treat- ment : none of thofe affectionate admonitions, thofe prudent and impelling motives, which ufually urge mankind to action, make any im- preflion on their degraded minds ; they reluft- antly labour the fields of a hard mader, and ftudioufly conceal from his knowledge thofe riches which fome accident, fo defirable in other countries, mould have led them to difcover ; as they would only augment the number of their toils and the heavinefs of their yoke. Hence that carelefs contempt for the treafures prefented them by Nature, and the neglect of thofe bounties (he INTRODUCTION. XI flie lavifhes on them. Hence thofe immenfe deferts almoft totally deftitute of cultivation, and fo many towns that are falling to decay. Peter the Great, of too penetrating a view not to perceive both the evil and its caufes, took all imaginable pains, and adopted the wifeft mea- fures to ameliorate the condition of an empire, fo powerful from numberlefs other circu.m- ftances, to free his fubjects by gentle degrees from the (hackles of barbarifm, to dfffufe on all fides the benign light of arts and fciences, to difcover the treafures concealed in his dominions, and to furnifli agriculture with the remedies and afliftances adapted to its improvement. His travels into feveral countries of Europe for the acquifition of fuch kinds of knowledge as were moil applicable to the ufe of his dominions, are fufficiently known ; as well as that in 1717 he honoured the royal academy of fciences at Paris with his prefence, and exprefled his defirc the following year to be admitted a member; that he kept up a regular correfpondence with that illuftrious body, and that he fent to it, as the nrfl effay of his ingenious and magnificent enterprifes, an accurate chart of the Cafpian, which he caufed to be fcrupuloufly taken on the fpot. At the fame time he fitted out and difpatched feveral men of letters to various parts Xli INTR6DUCT10K. parts of his empire; one of them to make the tour of Ruffia, and two others to proceed to Kazan and Aflrakhan, to gain information of every thing of confequence to be known in thofe countries. In the year^ 1719, DaYiiel Amadeus Meflerfchmidt, a phyfician of Dantzic, was fent into Siberia, for the purpofe of making inquiries into the natural hiflory of that im- menfe province, from which expedition he only returned at the beginning of 1727. This learned man did honour to the choice that had been made of him, by an indefatigable activity, and by the proofs he gave of his profound knowledge, not only in every department of natural hiflory, but likewife in antiquities, as well as in aftronomy, having carefully determined the elevation of the pole in all the places where he (lopped. . As the northern regions, particularly thofe of Siberia, were as yet but little known, and as it was very uncertain whether the extremity of thefe latter might not touch upon America, Peter I. fent from Archangel two mips, with orders to proceed, by the White-fea and the Northern-ocean, into the Frozen-ocean, where they experienced the fame difaflers as had be- fallen the other veflels that had gone before them in this attempt j for one of the two was caught INTRODUCTION. XU1 caught by the fields of ice, and difabled fr,om proceeding any farther ; and as no tidings were ever heard of the other, it, in all probability, perifhed. Peter I. was not difcouraged by the failure of this undertaking ; but he was carried off by death as he was preparing a new expedition ; he had given the charge of it to two danifh captains, Behring and Spangberg, and a Ruffian named Tfchirikoff, with orders to go to Kamtfliatka, whence they were to fail for exploring the northernmbft coafts of Siberia. The forrowfui event of the emperor's death made no alteration in thefe difpofitions ; and the plan was carried into execution, the fame winter, by the emprefs Catharine, who fent a fmall company of literati, provided with a paper of inftrucbions, which Peter had framed with his own hand. They returned in 1730, after having penetrated very far towards the north. The emprefs Anne was defirous of profecut- ing thefe important refearches ftill farther, and ordered the erection of a new company, in which Behring was to be employed as captain of the fhip. Kamtfhatka was again the point of de- parture for making the principal difcoveries, with orders to negleft nothing that might med any light on tbe knowledge of the globe. One part XIV INTRODUCTION". part of this fociety was to navigate the norther^ feas, while the others were to repair by land to Kamtmatka over Siberia. Thefe latter were to aft conformably with the inftructions of the imperial academy of Peterfburg, and to employ themfelves particularly in agronomical obferv- ations, geometrical operations, and defcriptions relative to the political and natural hiflory of the countries through which they were to pafs. John George Gmelin was one of the chief of thofe who undertook the journey by land ; almoft always accompanied by profeflbr Muller, who had the care of the hiftorical part. They reached as far as Yakutlk ; where Krafcheni- nikof, the afMant Steller, the painter Berkhan, and the (ludent Gorlanof, quitted them to go to Kamtmatka, of which they collected the political and natural hiftory, as well as that of the depart- ment of Okhotik. M. de 1'Ifle de la Groyere likewife went thither with fome land furveyors*. Afterwards M. Fifcher was fent in the depart- ment of political hiflory ; he reached very near to the province of Okhotfk, which he left in the defign of returning *. * For more particulars the reader is referred to the" preface of Mr. J. G. Gmelin to the iirft volume of his travels in Siberia which appeared at Gcettingen 1751. A frcuch trauflation, or rather abilradl of it, was given by M. *ie Keralio, Paris 1767. la. INTRODUCTION. XT In 1 760, M. 1'abbe Chappe d'Auteroche was fcnt into Ruflia, by order and at the expence of the king of France, for obferving at Tobolfk the tranfit of Venus over the fun : his obferv- ations, publifhed with great oftentation, contain not near fo much as was expected from that aca- demician ; and many of thofe which he relates had been already long fmce known. The emprefs Catharine IT. was determined to profecute thefe ufeful inveftigations, and accord- ingly gave orders to the academy of fciences to make choice of a company of able and learned men to travel over different diftrifts of the empire with attention and obfervation. The felection of the learned travellers, the helps that were granted them, the excellent inftruftions and advice that were given them, will be a lading honour to that academy. The very names of a Pallas, a Gmelin, and a Guldenftaedt, already promifed much. M. Lepechin had likewife acquired a reputation by different papers inferted in the academical collections ; and the refult of the labours of thefe enlightened men has been feen in the extenfive utility which they have fince produced. Very few of the accounts that have been given by travellers contain fo great a va- riety of new and important matters. The jour- nals of thefe celebrated fcholars even furnifh fuch XVI INTRODUCTION. fuch a great quantity of materials entirely new, for the hiftory of the three kingdoms of nature, for the theory of the earth, for rural ceconomy, in fhort, for fo many different obje&s relative to the arts arid fciences, that it would require, ac- cording to the judicious remark of M. Bekmann of Gcettingen, whole years and the labour of fe- veral literary men only to put thefe materials in order, and properly to clafs them. In order to form an accurate idea of the differ- ent objects to which our learned travellers were enjoined to direft their obfervations, it will be neceffary to give an account of the inftru men with two pieces of cannon, at the arrival of whom the robbers difperfed. By this means M. Guldenflaxlt happily regained the frontiers of Ruflia, and returned firit to Mofdok, and afterwards to Kifliar. In April 1773, he made, an excurfion to Peterfbade [the baths of Peter], whence he returned the fucceeding month and immediately fct out for Mofdok, and in the month of June went upwards along the Malka. From th-at river he turned off towards the eaftern branch of the Kuma, and proceeded to the five mountains b 3 or XXXVII! INTRODUCTION, or Befch-tau, -\vhich form the higheft part of the firft elevation of Caucafus : he vifited the mines of Madfchar, from which he took the route of Ticherkafk, where he arrived the 24th of July. From this lad town he made a tour to Azof; being returned to Tfcherkafk, he proceeded by Taganrok along the fea-coaft, crofled the rivtr Kalinius, following at the fame time the Berda and the new lines of the Dniepr, and came by the eaftern bank of that river to Krementfchuk, the capital of the government of New-Ruffia, where he arrived the yth of November, and parted the reft of the winter. He had not yet quitted this government, though already on the way to the Krimea, when he re- ceived orders on the 2oth of July 1774, as did all the other academical travellers-, to return, to St. Peterfburg. Accordingly he turned back, and came by Krementfchuk, and along the lines of the Ukraine as far as Bielefskaia-krepoft ; thence bent his courfe over Bachmut, and beyond towards the fouth-eaft and the eaft, as far as the rivers Mius and Lugantfchik. Being re- turned to Bielefskaia-krepoft, he left it for the fecond time the i6th of December, and came by Kief to Serpukof j where, having collected all the perfons and all the effects belonging to his expedition, he took his departure the 2oth of INTRODUCTION. XXXIX of December for Mofco, and in tlie courfe of March arrived at St. Petersburg *. Such is the general outline of thefe interefting travels from which the !e ^rned of Europe have received fo much information, and which pro- perly finds a place in the introduction to a work that owes fo great a part of its materials to the labours of thefe academicians. The difcoveries made by the Ruffians at fea at various epochas, and particularly during the reign of Catharine II. have been fo faithfully laid before the public by Mr. Cpxe in his well-known work profefledly written on that fubjecl;, that it would be unne- celTarily fwelling the bulk of thefe volumes to fay any more of them here. However, it is impoffible to take leave of thefe expensive and important miffions without teftifymg our ac- knowledgment, with that ingenious and candid writer, of the benefits that have accrued" to fcience from thefe learned and laborious invefti- gations, and to join with himf and every friend to rational inquiry, " in the warmed admiration *' of that enlarged and liberal fpirit, which * See Bachmeifter's Ruffifche Bibliotht!v, torn, i- ii. and iii. where very circumflamial accounts of all the feveral courfes purl'ued by thefe travellers are to be found. f Coxe, Ruffian Difcoveries between Afiaaad America, preface, p. xi. " fo XI INTRODUCTION. " fo ftrikingly marked the character of the late " emprefs of Rufiia ; who, from her acceffion to " the throne, made the inveftigation and dif- " covery of uleful knowledge the conftant object " of her generous encouragement. The au- " thentic records of the ruffian hiftory were by " her orders properly arranged ; and permhTion '* was granted of infpecting them. The moft " diftant parts of her vaft dominions were at her " expence explored and defcribed by perfons of ic great abilities and extenfive learning ; by " which means new and important lights have " been thrown upon the geography and natural " hiftory of thofe remote regions. In a word, " this truly great princcfs contributed more " in the compafs of only a few years, towards " civilifing and informing the minds of her " fubjects, than had been effected by all the " fovereigns her predeceflbrs fmce the glorious " 'asra of Peter the great." CON- CONTENTS OF THE F I ,R S T VOLUME. BOOK I. Of the natural flate of the empire. SECTION I. Amplitude, boundaries, and divifion of the empire, page i. SECTION II. Climate and quality of the foil, 21. Froft and fnow, advantages arifing from, 27. Bones and teeth of elephants, &c. found in Siberia, 29. General divifion of the empire, 30.. Defcrip- tion of Taurida, 33. Meteorological obfervations of the academy, 41. The covering of the Neva with ice, 47. Departure of the ice, 48. The em- prefs Anna's palace of ice, 49. Effects of the colrandywere very badly off. Moreover, there are regions where the greater part of the year may properly be called winter, others where the winter lafts but a few weeks ; fome where florins are very frequent, others where they are extremely rare : of the latter fort are the parts about the frozen ocean, Bufching remarks, that corn ripens in few places above the 6oth degree of polar elevation. This however admits of fome limitation : corn is indeed grown far higher than the 6oth degree, though in thofe parts the hufbandman runs great hazard of feeing his hopes entirely defeated by the frofl of one fingle night, which fometimes happens OF THE SOIL, 29 happens in July or Auguft. For inftance, this is frequently the cafe at Mefen, which lies in 65 cleg, north lat. where barley is fown, which comes up finely, but feldom ripens. It grows to almoft the ufual height, and bears large ears ; but does not come to maturity above once in 20 or 30 years : however, it is fown every year for the purpofe of getting fodder for the cattle. Corn comes from Archangel. From feveral phenomena mentioned in the travels of the academicians, one would be tempted to fuppofe, that even the north of Siberia mud formerly have had a much milder climate, or have undergone a mod flupendous revolution hv, nature. As a proof of this we may adduce the fkeletons of elephants and other large animals found within the earth on the fhores and rivers there. Thefe bones and teeth have been de- fcribed by that learned and ingenious traveller M. Pallas. A {keleton of this kind, which we have feen, was found, among others, feveral years fince. on the more of the Irtyfh, fome fa- thoms deep in the earth, where the river has wafhed away part of its bank. In all thefe places they are known by the name of mammot's- bones. Great numbers of them have been fent to Peterfburg, where they may be feen in the mufeum of the academy of fciences ; but they are ^O CLIMATE, AND QUALITY are not well put together. If thefe animals lived once where their bones are difcovered, it is cer- tain that thefe countries mud formerly have had a very different climate. Did they go thither while alive ? What inducement led them ? Have thev been wafted thither after death ? What a flood muft it have been that carried them ! Or, are they bones of fea-animals ? A general divifion of the whole empire may be made into three great regions, in regard to weather, and the confequent growth of the pro- ductions of nature, viz. 1. The region lying above the 6oth deg. and extending to the 7 8th degree of north lat. 2. The region lying between the 5cth and the 6oth degree of north lat. ; and, 3. The region which lies to the fouth of the 5oth, and reaches to the 4jd degree. The firft is the rudeft and coldeft. In it are contained the greater part of the governments of Irkutfk, Tobolfk, and Vologda ; the entire go- vernments of Archangel, Olonetz, and Viborg, with part of thofe of Perme, Novgorod, and St. Peterfburg *. All thefe regions lie in a very cold * By the obfervations of the academician Eukr there are even at St. Peterfburg only two months in which it never fnows. In order to characterise the weather of the northern OF THE SOIL. cold climate, having a winter extremely fevere, efpecially Siberia. The northern region we will give a fliort extract from the meteor- ological remarks publifhed by M. Fries, of the territorial town of Uftiug Veliki in the government of Vologda. Tin's town lies in 60 50' north latitude, and 62 10' eaft longitude from Ferro, 516 miles from the nearefl fhore of the frozen ocean, and 1002 miles from St. Peterfburg. The mean heat and cold here is : above Reaumur's freezing-point in the month of April till September ; below the freezing- point in the month of October till March. The mercury in Reaumur's thermometer, in the fingle month of June alone, falls never below o, and only in January never rifes above o. The cold increafed at times fo late as in the middle of April to 30 degrees, and the quickfilver may, fometimes fo early as November, and again in the firft days of March, be hammered. In every winter are 120 days, in which the cold is more than 5 degrees ; and, of them, 65 days in which it exceeds 10 degrees ; yet the fummer Kas more hot, than the winter has cold days. The thermome- ter ftood, upon an average of feveral years, the whole day above o on 152 days, and below o on 150; confequently there were 63 days on which it flood alternately above and below o. The rivers are navigable about the loth of May. At the end of that month the fummer-corn is fcwn, and about the middle of June the fields are manured for winter- fowing ; the harveft is commonly in Auguft. The trees fhed their leaves fometimes fo early as the zoth of Auguft; but ufually about the 2oth. Uftiug Veliki lies 15 ^ degrees more to the north than St. Peterfburg, the quickiilver froze in open air the 4 th 32 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY The fecond region, in regard of its fertility, may be called the temperate ; in one half where- of, that is, from the 5jth to the 6oth degree, the weather, though pretty fevere and cold, yet allows the fruits of the field and the orchard to grow. In the other half, namely from the 5oth to the 55th degree, the climate is much milder ftill, affording, befide the ufual products, others which do not fucceed in the former. The whole of this large, beautiful and important region comprehends the governments of St. Peterfburg, Reval, Riga, Polotzk, Mohilef, Smolenfk, Pfcove, Novgorod, Tver, Yaroflaf, Koftroma, Visetka, Permia, Kolhyvane, a good portion of Irkutfk and Ufa, the governments of Mofco, Vladimir, Nifhney-Novgorod, Kazan, Kaluga, 4th of November 1786, during a cold of 30^ degrees of Reaumur's thermometer; the ift of December at 40 de- grees, it fell the fame day to 51, and the yth of December even down to 60. The qijickAlver then froze to a folid mafs, fo as to bear beating with a hammer, in a warm room, feveral times before any pieces flew off from it. See the observations of M. Fries, in. Crell's annals, 1787, part x. p. 318, & feq. At Krafnoyarfk the qmckfilver froze at 235 and 254 deg. of de 1'Ifle's fcale. Pallas, tom.iii. p. 419. In Solykamfk, in 1761 it fell in the faid thermometer of de 1'Ifle quite down to 280 deg. Examen du voyage de JM. de laChappe d'Autcroche, p. 105. Tula, OF THE SOIL. 33 Tula, Riazan, Voronetch, Tambof, Penfa, Sim- birfk, Kurfk, Orel, Novgorod-Sieverfc, Tfcher- nigof, and the greater part of Kief, Kharkof, and Saratof. The third is the hot climate, yielding pro- duds, e. g. wine and filk, which the two former do not. In this lie Taurida, Ekatarinoflaf, the major part of Caucafia, and a part of Kief, Khar- kof, Voronetch, Saratof, Kolhy vane, and Irkutfk. In Adrakhan the heat is fometimes fo intenfe that the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer is up at 103^, and rain is then fo rare, that without artificial irrigation all the plants are withered. Among the fined and mod fertile tracts of the fouthern didricts are the caucafian territory of the government of Caucafus and the mountainous part of the province of Taurida. The region about the Terek and the foot of the caucafian mountains bear the bed wheat, the choked orchard-fruits, wild and cultivated vine- docks, mulberry-trees, wild olives, figs, chef- nuts, almond and peach trees, faffron, &c. Of the mountainous part of the province of Taurida, M. Pallas, in a late publication, gives fo animated and delightful a picture that I can- not refid the temptation to infert a tranflation of it here, efpecially as it is not at all known in England. VOL.I. D " One 34 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY " One of the mildeft and moil fertile regions " of the empire is the beautiful femicircular and " amphitheatral vale formed by the tauridan " mountains on their fide along the mores of " the Euxine. Thefe vallies which are blefled " with the climate of Anatolia and the lefler " Afia, where the winter is fcarcely fenfible, " where the primrofes and fpring-fauron bloom " in February and often in January, and where " the oak frequently retains its foliage the whole " winter through, are, in regard to botany and " rural ceconomy, the noblefl tracl: in Taurida " and perhaps in the whole extent of the empire. " Here every where thrive and flourifh in open " air the ever-verdant laurel, the oil-tree, the " fig, the lotus, the pomegranate, and the " celtis, which perhaps are the remains of gre- " cian cultivation ; with the manna-bearing afh, " the turpentine-tree, the tan-bark-tree, the " ftrawberry-tree from Afia minor, and many " others. This lafl particularly covers the " fteepeft cliffs of the more, and beautifies them " in winter by its perpetual foliage and the red " rind of its thick ftem. In thefe happy vales " the forefts confifl of fruit-trees of every kind, " or rather the foreft is only a large orchard left " entirely to itfelf. On the mores of the fea " the capef-bufhes propagate themfelves fponta- " neouilyj OF THE SOIL. 35 " neoufly ; without the afliftance of art the " wild or planted vine-ftems climb the loftieft " trees, and, twining with flowery creepers, " form feftoons and hedges. The contraft of " the orchards and the rich verdure with the " beautiful wildnefs which the adjacent moun- " tains and rocks prefent, which in fome places " rife among the clouds, and in others are " fallen in ruins ; the natural fountains and caf- " cades that agreeably prefent their ruming " waters; laftly, the near view of the fea, " where the fight is loft in the unbounded " profpect : all thefe beauties together form fo " pittorefque and delightful a whole, that even Not obfer ^d. 47 f Mar. 27. {Apr. 14. incl. . '73 1 to Not obfer ved. 35 f Mar. 2 6. {Apr. 24. 1736 to 1740. . 21 deg. 38 f Mar. 25. {Apr. 26. oa. 24. Nov. 14. 1741 to 2 1 deg. 22 1745- - 1746 to 27 22 f Mar. 25. {Apr. 25. oa. 23. NOV. 20. '75 ' - 1751 to 24 22 f Mar. 26. {Apr. 27. Nov. 7. Nov. 20. J 755- - 1756 to 1760. ^^\ 33 ("Mar. 27. {Apr. 21. Nov. 4. Nov. 19. 1761 to 22 27 f Mar. 28. {Apr. 23. Nov. 8. Nov. 23. 1766 : to 21 33 73 jApr. i. lApr. 15. oa. 20. Dec. i. 1770. 1771 to 21* 28* 1 66 f Apr. 5. oa. 3 i. Nov. 12. '775- - 1776 ( tO ! 1780. 22 3 2 182 f Mar. 31. {Apr. 19. Nov. i. NOV. 21. ' t0 22 3 85 f Apr. 7. lApr. 22. Nov. 6. Nov. 27. 1786. 23 23 f 185 Apr. 10. oa. 26. 1787. 25i'o 215 Apr. 13. Nov. 14. 1788. 261 2 4 r 183 Apr. 9. Nov. 6. 1789. 24 138 Apr. 19. Nov. 14. E 2 The 52 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY The height of the barometer during this time was never higher than 3o T \V 5 and never lower than 26 j-4-cr inches. The Neva never broke up before the 25th of March, and never later than the 27th of April. The earlieft (landing of the ice was the 2oth of October, and the latefl the ift of December. Its (landing and breaking up determines our fummer and winter. On the breaking up of the ice, when the river is fo far open as to be navigable for boats, the event is announced to the town by the firing of three cannons from the fortrefs. Upon this the furveyor of the city-wharfs goes in a barge with the city.flag flying, accompanied by a number of other barges, to the fortrefs, and falutes it with feven guns, on which the fortrefs returns the falute with five. From the fortrefs he then pro- ceeds to the imperial winter-palace, where, on being come near the more, he again makes an- other difcharge of cannon, which is followed by three cheers from the crew, repeated by the com- panies of the numerous barges. This done, they all return in proceflion to the place from whence they came. Previous to this ceremony, no boat may dare to fhew itfelf on the Neva ; but from that moment any one may pafs upon it that will : and fo long as the Neva continues open, the rif- ing and fetting of the fun are noticed by a gun from OF THE SOIL. 53 from the fortrefs. But this is difcontinued during all the time that the Neva is covered with ice. The fevere cold here has not that violent be- numbing effecl either on man or bead as people in fouthern climates might imagine. This feems to be principally founded on the dry quality of the air during the froft, and perhaps in fome meafure may be owing to habit, by which both men and the inferior animals are hardened to the climate. However this be, from the drynefs of the atmofphere, foreigners, according to the uni- verfal teftimony of them all, fuffer much lefs from the cold, than they do from lefs degrees of it in other countries. The drivers and their horfes, from being feafoned to the cold, feel little or no inconveniency in purfuing their employment through the flreets of the town and along the roads, though the beards of the former and the muzzles of the latter are covered with hoar-frofl and little icicles from the congelation of their breath ; and in the fevereft colds they travel all day without receiving any detriment. Nay, even in from 20 to 24 degrees of Reaumur, wo- men will (land rincing the linen through holes in the ice, four, five, or fix hours together, often barefoot, with their hands dipping in the water all the while, and their draggled petticoats ftiff with ice. E 3 The 54 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY The heavy gales of wind which prevail in thefe parts, and more efpecially in the gulf of Finland, have frequently occafioned much diftrefs, by the fwelling of the Neva, and the confequent calami- tous inundation of the city. However, it is con- foling to find, that from the repeated obfervations which have been made, thefe inundations are no longer fo dreadful as formerly, becaufe the over- flowing of the river to about the height of fix feet above its ordinary level, which formerly ufed to lay the whole town under water, does not any more produce that effect, except on the lowefl quarters of it; a circumftance arifmg hence, among other caufes, that, by the perpetual increafe of buildings, the ground is become gra- dually higher. The firft inundation we know of happened in the year 1691, an account of which is given by Weber, the minifter from the elector of Hanover, from the report of fome fifhermen who lived at Nienfhantz, at that time a fwedifli redoubt on the Neva. About this pe- riod, it is pretended, the water ufed to rife every five years. As foon as the inhabitants of the parts adjacent perceived the ftorm coming on with unufual vehemence, which, from fad expe- rience, they knew to be the forerunner of one of thefe inundations, they immediately took their huts to pieces, tied the balks of them together in the form of a float, fastened them to the topmofl branches OF THE SOIL. 55 branches of the higheft trees, and ran as faft as they could to the Duderhof-hills, fifteen verfts from their place of abode, where they remained till the water had fubfided. From various ob- fervations made on this fubjeft, the following conclufions have been drawn : the higheft fwells, namely, above fix feet high, ufually hap- pened in the four lad months of the year. Snow or rain have never had any remarkable effect upon them. The heaping of the ice at the mouth of the Neva often caufes fome floodings ; but the principal caufes of the overflowings of this river are the violent ftorms and winds from the fouth- weft, or weft, or north-weft, which commonly are prevalent towards the autumnal equinox, and the elevation of the water is always in proportion with the violence and duration of thefe winds. In a word, the circumftances that moftly contri- bute to make the Neva overflow, are, if at the time of the autumnal equinox, three or four days before or after the full moon or new moon, when me is near her perigseum, a vehement north -weft wind drives the water of the north fea during the flood and ebb into the Baltic, and at the fame time with it or fuddenly after it a fouth-weft wind blows over the Baltic or the gulf of Finland. All thefe circumftances united, for example, at the great inundation in 1777. E4 It 56 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY It happened two days before the autumnal equi- nox, four before the full moon, two after its tranfit through the perigasum, and with a ftorm from the fouth-weft, previous to which there had been ftrong weft winds in the north fea, and vehement north winds at the mouth of the Baltic. The moft memorable of thefe floods, of which we have any account, were the follow- ing : in 1715, which, though the day is not no- ticed, yet went over almoft all the bulwarks. In 1721, the fth of November, exactly at the full of the moon. In 1723, fome day of October, alfo at full moon, when the flood rofe 3 inches higher than in 1721. In 1725,^16 i6th of No- vember. In 1726, the 1 2th of November, the day after full moon, from 8 o'clock in the morn- ing till mid-day, when the water rofe to 3 f ar- Ihines above its ordinary level, and one fourth and a half or eight decimal inches higher than in 1721. In 1727, the 2ift of September. In 1728, the 3d of Auguft and 3d of November. In 1729, the 3d and the nth of October, the day after the new moon, about i o o'clock in the morning, with a violent florin from the fea. In 1732, the 1 5th of September. In 1733, the 6th of September, the 8th and 31(1 of October, and the i2th of December. In 1735, the 26th of February j in the fame year again in the night between OF THE SOIL. 57 between the gth and loth of October, with a ftorm from the north- weft which held the fame courfe till noon, fo that the overflowing water, by about 8 o'clock, had deluged every quarter of Peterfburg to the height of an ell, and did not abate till afternoon. In 1740, the lath of Sep- tember, the day of the equinox, when the flood rofe 2 arfhines and 3 verfhoks above the bed of the river. In 1752, the 22d of October, with a flying florin, from the fouth-weft, verging to the weft, which about 10 at night fo raifed the water, that it came nine feet and an half above its ufual ftation, and inundated all the iflands and the fe- veral quarters of the town (the Stickhof and the part about the Neffkoi monaftery excepted) with tremendous violence, and caufing great damage to the inhabitants ; but prefently after midnight it fubfided with equal rapidity. At this flood it was very remarkable, that, on the 25th of October, with a ftrong gale from the S. S. W. the water, which had been pretty high in the neareft ftreets, fwelled on the 26th with a fouth-weft wind fo as to overflow the whole city, yet, forafmuch as the violence of the ftorm turned in time to the north, overflowed by one arfhine lower than the former day ; and, laftly, that, on the 28th in the afternoon, after the ftream had returned on the 27th to its ordinary channel, 5 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY channel, a new flood, almoil without wind, fuc- ceeded, which did again much damage on the Vaffilly oftrof, and probably \\as occafioned by ftorms at fea which had compreflfed the \vaters of the gulf of Finland. The laft, and one of the moft deftructive inundations, was that in the au- tumn of the year 1777, anc * which in fome re- fpe&s exceeded all the foregoing, as it continued the whole -night from the gth to the loth of Sep- tember (therefore three days after the moon was at the full) with an uncommonly low ftate of the barometer ; a violent fouth-weft and afterwards wefterly wind raging all the while, which forced the ftream at 5 in the morning over its banks, and laid all Peterfburg under water in many parts above two ells, but fpent the moft of its fury on the Vamlly oftrof and what is called the Peterf- burg-fide, warning away fences, bridges, and fuch houfes as were moft expofed to the fea, forcing up whole acres of foreft trees by the roots, tranfporting yachts, galliots, and heavy- loaded barks to a great diftance on the land, and darning others to pieces, and certainly would have raged with greater fury, and have committed far more havoc, had not the tempeft, towards 8 o'clock, when the flood was rifen to more than 10 feet above the common level of the river, and upwards of a foot and a half higher than in OF THE SOIL. 59 1752, veered to the north-weftward and caufed the decline of the water, which about noon was well-nigh retired from the ftreets. Were the Bal- tic fubjeft to a confiderable flux and reflux, the inundations of Peteriburg would be incompa- rably more terrible, and in all probability not much inferior to the remarkable fpring-tide at Briftol, which often, in particular circum- ftances, increafes to 50, or even to 60 feet. However, it is poflible that ftorms prevailing in the north fea during the time of the fpring- tides, which impel together an extraordinary quantity of water into the Baltic, may remotely contribute to the inundations that happen at St. Peterfburg, when the winds that afl: to that end combine with thefe circumftances. Lefs con- fiderable floodings of the Neva are not unfre- quent in autumn, rifing to the height of from 5 to 7 feet, and have been remarked to happen ten times only fmce 1752; as, in 1756, the 2pth of September, with a ftorm from the weft, to 7 feet 3 inches englifh meafure ; in 1757, the i6th of October, with a florin from the fouth-weft, to the height of 6 feet 2 inches ; in 1762, the 28th of October, with a fouth-weft wind, 5 feet 10 inches; in 1763, the 8th of Oftober, with a fouth-weft wind, 5 feet 4 inches ; 'in 1 764, from the 6th to the 24th of November, 7 feet 4 inches; in 1765, the 1 6th of November, in a perfect calm, 60 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY calm, 5 feet 6 inches ; in 1772, the 31 ft of De- cember, with a fouth-weft gale, 5 feet 2 inches. The aurora borealis is very frequent, and not un- commonly makes its appearance with extremely vivid white corufcations of light. The year in general produces from 20 to 30 difplays of thofe inexplicable phasnomena : fometimes they reckon 40 ; but in 1762 there were only 2, and in 1731 4 exhibitions of the northern lights. Storms of thunder and lightning are neither numerous, violent, nor lading. In 1732 there were only 2 j in 1750 but 3 ; though annually they may be computed at from 6 to 18. At times, however, they do confiderable damage. Therefore the tower of Peter's church, which was deprived of its fpire by lightning, the palaces of Gatfhina and Peterhof are provided with con- ductors, the former on the principles of M. Alb. Euler, of our academy ; the two latter were placed under the directions of prof. Kohlreif. No winds are particularly predominant here, though in one year this, and in another that, is mod frequent. According to the obfervations kept fince 1725, there are annually from 10 to 16 tempefts. Of thefe the moft injurious to navigation are thofe that come from the eaft, be- caufe they occafion the water of the Cronltadt gulf to be fo low that no mips of burden can come up j the weftern tempefts, as before re- marked, OF THE SOIL. 6l marked, are more prejudicial to the city, by caufing a fwell of the Neva, and at times inun- dations. Hoar-frofls are common, covering and orna- menting the leaflefs branches of the trees, in the winter months, with their extremely beautiful, fparkling, white, icy cryftallizations. It but fel- dom hails ; not above fix times in the year and the hail-ftones are always fmall. The fudden tranfitions of the air to different temperatures has often been mentioned as re- markable by travellers, with great juftice. Thus, at Peterfburg, on the i2th of February 1794* they had 13 degrees of froft ; on the i3th, 2 de- grees of thaw ; the i4th, froft again ; and on the 1 5th, 19 degrees of froft, by Reaumur's ther- mometer. In the SECOND region the fummer is indeed likewife in many parts fhort ; yet in moft of them fo warm, and the days fo long, that the fruits of the earth ufually come to perfect maturity in a much fhorter fpace of time than elfevvhere. The winter too, in this region, particularly in the go- vernments of Irkutfk, Tobolfk, Perme, Visetka, &c. for the moft part very fevere. In the THIRD region, there are very extenfive diftri&s ; for inftance, in the governments of Ir- kutfk, Kolhyvane, and Ufa, where the winter is alfo long and cold. This, however, arifes more 5 from. 62 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY from the very lofty mountains with which thefe diftricls abound. But the governments in the european divifion of Ruflia that lie under this meridian, moftly enjoy a fhort and tolerably temperate winter, and a fine v/arm fummer *. In the FOURTH region the winter is fhort, and (though in fome parts of the governments of Irkutfk and Kolhyvane, cold enough) the fummer warm, often hot, and in many parts very dry f. The * In and about Mofko, e. gr. the rivers freeze over in the middle or towards the latter end of November, old ftyle ; and break up in March or the beginning of April. The buds of the birch-trees expand in May, and fhed their leaves in September. The river Ural ufually flows, near Gurief, free from ice about the beginning of March. f M. Falk writes as follows concerning the diftrid cir- cumjacent to the Terek : " The fpring is fhort and very " pleafant ; the fummer hot, with frequent rains and " ilorms ; tiie autumn fhort and dry ; the winter fhort, ' clear, and rude." And, of the parts about the Irtifh : " The climate of the lower region of the Irtifh, on account '* of its eaftern, and partly northern fituation, is very " fevere. The winter is continually keen. The fummer, '* for a great part of it has fuch a foggy atmofphere, that " one gets but a very fmall horizon, and I can frequently * c look fledfaftly at the dim orb of the fun with my naked * eye, as we do at the moon. The fpring and the autumn *' are moftly bright, but are fubjecl to very rapid tranfitions " from pretty warm to biting cold. Falls of fnow are not " rare in May and September ; and, July only excepted, " no month in the year is fecure from night-frofts. But, *' in fpring, here, as in the quite fouthern and middle " Siberia, OF THE SOIL. 63 The immenfe territory of this empire likewife naturally forms itfelfinto two grand divifions, by the vaft Ural chain of mountains interfering it from north to fouth ; thefe divifions are very un- equal, both as to dimenfions and quality. That on the weftward, is proper [or european Ruffia j and that lying to the eaft, afiatic Ruffia, or Si- beria. The air, in all the northern governments, or that lie fomewhat high, is very falubrious. The fame may be alfo affirmed in general of the fecond " Siberia, every thing comes forward with amazing ra- " pidity." P. 258. In Omfk, where the Om falls into the Irtifli, the cold, in 1770, was from 151 to 213 degrees of de 1'Ifle. In January 1771, the leaft cold 160, the greateft zoo deg. In February from 160 to 205. ' March the 12th it was at 190, and the 27th at 140 deg. The Irtifh here breaks up in March, ufually between the loth and the 2oth. In Kifliar, and about the whole of the Terek (the moft fouthern diftricls of the ruffian empire), the S.S.E. and S. winds, from the mountains, are very drying and cold. From 1768 to 1773 the greateft heat here, according to de 1'Ifle's thermometer, was 97 deg. and the greateft cold 191^ deg. On the 9th of November 1770, a fmall fhock of an earthquake was felt there. Gul- denftaedt, part i. p. 177. In Irkutfk, the gth of Decem- ber 1772, the thermometer ftood at 254 deg. and the quick- filver confolidated in it. Georgi, travels, part i. p. 36. The Angara there commonly does not freeze till towards the end of December ; frequently not till the middle of January, and is already open again by about the clofe of March, or at fartheft the firil days in April. and 64 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY and third regions, excepting only the diflricts from the Oby down to the Irtifh, and on the Ui and Ural as far as the Cafpian fea, where every year thofe aflhmas prevail which are known un- der the name of yafva. The fourth region likewife contains a great deal of low lands, partly fwampy and partly dry, and faline fteppes, which are certainly none of the healthiefl. Rains fall in common very copioufly in the northern and middle governments ; though this admits of its exceptions. M. Hermann fays*, that from the autumn of 1786 till the fummer of 1788, in which he writes, the weather in all Si- beria, and in many of the ruffian governments, had been fo unufually dry, that fuch a failure of the crops, and fuch a want of water at the mines, was never heard of before by the oldeft man alive. Some of the parts adjacent to feas, lakes, and large rivers are often incommoded by thick fogs, but the greater part of the empire enjoys a bright, and but too frequently an air more dry than might be wiflied. Moft of the governments are fubject to great quantities of fnow ; but not all. In fome dif- trifts, for inftance about Nertminfk, they are ufually but fcanty in fnow, though the cold of the winter with them is very fevere. * Statiftifche fchilderung von Ruf&land, &c. p. 55. The OF THE SOU* 6j winds are in fome parts very violent, efpecially in Siberia, where reigns a certain tre- mendous kind of winter-hurricane, which they call burahe, and which not unfrequently buries both men and cattle in whirlpools of mow and fand. Storms, in mod of the diftrifts, are not fo frequent, and generally fpeaking not by far fo vio- lent, as in other places ; neither was any mifchief ever known to have been done by lightning. In the parts to the north, thunder and lightning are even great rarities. On the other hand, the northern lights are ordinary appearances j and in many of the north- ern diftricls, a few months excepted, are, in a manner, to be feeri daily. Earthquakes in moft of thefe parts happen but Feldom. Yet there have been fome, felt over Kamtfhatka to the mountains of Altai *. In the northern diftricls the days in winter are extremely fhort; but in fummer therefore fo * In the year 174! three earthquakes were felt on Be- ring's ifland; and in 1780 a violent earthquake committed great depredations on the Kurilli iflands, particularly on the 1510, i6th, and lyth. On the 2ift of January 1725, and again in 1768 and 1769, earthquakes were felt fa Daouria, Irkutfk, &c. and in 1734 at Tomfk. In the vicinity of Baikal lake almoft every year fmart {hocks are felt. Georgi. VOL, i. t much 6 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY much. the longer. On the fhorteft day, the loth of December, old ftyle, the fun rifes, and fets, In Aftrakhan, about 48 min. after 7; 12 min. after 4. Kief, ... 7 8. 53 3. Mofco, - - 37 8. 23 3. Riga, ... 47 8. 13 3. Tobolfk, - - 56 8. 4 3. St. Petersburg, 15 9. 45 2. Archangel, - 24 10. 36 I* The quality of the foil, in this enormous em- pire, as may well be fuppofed, is extremely vari- ous. There are entire, and they very extenfive governments, that are full of mountains : but others, in ftill greater number, that confift of vaft fieppes and plains, fome of which are inex- plorable to the eye. I mail conclude this head with a few gene- ral remarks made by that diligent and accurate furveyor, capt. Plefcheyef : " Ruflla (fays he) is divided by nature into two great parts by a range of mountains called Ural, which form one con- tinued uninterrupted barrier acrofs the whole breadth of it, dividing Siberia from the reft of Ruffia. " That part of Ruffia which lies on this fide the Ural mountains, prefents a vaft extended plain verging towards the weft by an eafy gradation. This plain, from its prodigious extent, has a great variety OF THE SOIL. 67 variety of climates, foils, and products. The northern part of it is very woody, marfhy, but little capable of cultivation, and has a fenfible declenfion towards the white fea and the frozen ocean. The other part of this extenfive plain includes the whole diftrict along the river Volga, as far as the deferts reaching by the Cafpian and the fea of Azof, conflituting the fineft part of Ruflia, which in general is rich and fertile, hav- ing more arable and meadow land, than forefts, fwamps, or barren deferts. " The moil remarkable, for fuperior quality and flavour of every kind of fruit and other produc- tions of the earth, is that part which extends to- wards Voronetch, Tambof, Penza, and Sinbirfk, as far as the deferts. It every where abounds in an admirably rich foil, confiding of a black mould, ftrongly impregnated with faltpetre. But that part which commences between the fea of Azof and the Cafpian, and extending near the mores of the latter, runs between the Volga and the Ural, and then flretching as far as the river Emba, is nothing but a defert, level, arid, high, fterile, and full of faline lakes. " The part lying on the other fide of the Ural mountains, known by the name of Siberia, is a flat tract of land of confiderable extent, declining imperceptibly towards the frozen ocean, and- by F 2 equally 8 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY equally gentle gradations rifmg towards the fouth ; where at laft it forms a great chain of mountains, making the boundary of Ruflia on the fide of China. Between the two rivers Oby and Irtifh, and the Altay mountains, runs a very extenfive plain, called the Barabinikaia fteppe, or the deferts of Baraba, the northern part whereof is excellently adapted to agriculture ; but the fouthern, on the contrary, is a barren defert, full of fands and marfhes. The country between, the rivers Oby and YeniiTey confifts more of woodland than of open field ; and the other fide of the Yeniifey is entirely covered with impervious woods, as far as the lake Baikal ; but the foil is every where fruitful : and wherever the natives have been at the pains of clearing and draining the grounds, it proves to be rich, and highly fit for cultivation. The parts beyond the Baikal are furrounded by ridges of high, ftony mountains. Proceeding farther on to- wards the eaft, the climate of Siberia becomes gradually more and more fevere, the fummer mortens, the winter grows longer, and the frofts are more intenfe. " In fuch temperature of climate, the greater part of Siberia, that is, the middle and fouthern latitudes of it, as far as the river Lena, is ex- tremely fertile and fit for every kind of produce ; but OF THE SOIL. 69 but the northern and eaftern parts, being encum- bered with wood, are deprived of this_advantage, being unfit both for paflurage and culture. The whole of this part, as far as the 6oth degree of north lat. and to the frozen ocean, is full of bogs and moraffes covered with raofs, which would be abfolutely impafifable, did not the ice, which never thaws deeper than feven inches, remain entire beneath it," Nature of the foil. In this particular a ftill greater diverfity is ob- fervable than in climate. Here are delightful and charming regions, where Nature feems to have difpenfed her gifts of every kind with an un- fparing hand * ; while towards others me has acted fo like a ftepmother that all appears defert and gloomy. We mufl not judge of the country at large from either the one or the other of thefe appearances. If, however, we were to divide the ground and foil into clafTes, it might be done in. fomething of the following manner, yet without particular regard to the feveral kinds of earth and flrata. * And yet numbers of foreigners ftill adhere to the foolifh notion that Ruffia is entirely a rude country, and ha3 not a trace to ihew of beautiful Nature, r 3 70 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY Arable land. Under this head we muft reckon various tracts of land, efpecially, i . thofe that are kept in con- ftant cultivation and tillage, fuch as are every where feen in Great and Little Ruflia, in the pro- vinces bordering on the Baltic, and many others. 2. Such as are only ufed at times, and left quiet for a great length of time. In fome regions, for inilance, in Little Ruflia, about the Don *, &c. where they are looked upon as fteppes, which if merely ploughed and then fown, would be pro- ductive; in others, for example, in Livonia, Efthonia, and Ingria, where they are rendered fertile by fire, and are called by the countrymen bum-lands f. On fuch parcels of ground, which are either allotted into particular pofieflions, or without a proper owner, villages might be gra- dually erected. In uninhabited diftricts thefe tracts are moft frequent. 3. Thofe that are pro- per for agriculture, but lie totally unemployed : they wait only for induftrious hands. There are ftill plenty of thefe vaft tracts, where millions of * The Don kozak takes, in whatever part of the fteppe he choofes, a piece fit for cultivation, and beftowshis labour upon it as long as he thinks proper, or as long as its vifible fertility will amply reward his labour. f See Hupel Liefl. and Efthl. vol. ii. men OF THE SOIL. 71 men might find work and profit, efpecially jn fruitful fteppes, and in numberlefs large forefts. The fertility of all thefe trails is very different according to the quality of the foil. In Livonia, and Eflhonia, from good fields they reap 8, and in fuccefsful years from i o to 12 fold ; from in- different ground about only 3, but from better at times 16 or even more than 20 fold. The harvefls about the Don are commonly 10 fold ; but towards Tomfk on th,e Tfhumum, and in the \vhole region between the Qby and the Tom, many fields afford an increafe of 25 to 30 fold *; and at Kramoyarflv the failure of a crop was never heard of: of winter-corn they reap 8, of barley 12, and of oats 20 foldf. In Little Ruflia, on the Don, and in many other places, the fields are never manured, only ploughed once, juft to turn up the earth, after? wards harrpwed, and then fpwn : more cuhure a efpecially dunging, would pufh the corn, up too luxuriantly or parch i{, and fo hurt the harvefl ; as the foil is fufficiently fertile of itfelf. Of equal goodnefs is the ground in great part of Siberia : for example, on the Samara ; on the Ufa in the country of the Bamkirs ; here and there in the * Pallas, vol. ii. p. 650 & feq. f Ibid, vol.iii. p. 6. f * 4 72 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY Baraba, or the barabinian fteppe ; alfo on the Kama, whence a great quantity of corn is fent to the northern cojnlefs dwelling-places on the Dvina and Petfhora. In like manner too in the government of Ifetik the foil generally con- fifts of a black earth to the depth of an ell, con- fequently is proper for tillage, for meadow-land, and garden-ground. On the Oby near Barnaul, the black earth does not indeed go very deep, but the marly clay * that lies under it, fertilizes it fo much as to make it, in fome places, yield plentiful harvefts, without manuring, for twenty years fucceflively t At Krafnoyarfk, the fields will bear no manure whatever, and yet continue fruitful for 10 or 15 years, if only fuffered to lie fallow every third year {. When the fertility ceafes, the boor takes a frefh piece from the fteppe. On the Selenga, in the diftricT: of Selen- ghinfk, the fields are hilly, and yet will bear no manure, as it is found on repeated trial to fpoil the corn, * A dark-grey earth, about a foot deep, beneath which runs a layer of clay, and is held in many places to be fine arable land. f Pallas, vol. ii. p. 641. $ Ibid. vol. in. p. 6. $ Ibid, p, 168, OF THE SOIL. 73 Meadows. Thefe are in an abundance not to be defcribed ; though here and there a diftricl: may be in want of them: but regularly eftablimed farms, on account of the long winters, require a great fupply of hay. At the fame time there are large trafts of country, where the meadows (which in many places are called hay-crops, and when they are overflowed by fome river every fpring, luchten) are not ufed as fuch at all, either becaufe the people want no hay, or becaufe from lazinefs they do not cut it, but oblige their cattle throughout the winter to feek a poor nourimment on the pafture- grounds, and fometimes even under the fnow. Hence it follows, that artificial meads, as not deemed neceflary, are unufual. Where a want of them is feen, there is commonly a deficiency in land fit for that purpofe *, or the people choofe rather to turn it into arable. However, fome fteppes produce the beft meadow-grafs for pro- vender, and yield feed for making artificial meadows j fuch as the efparrette, the alpine hedy- farium, clover, various kinds of artemifia, pulfe, ftarflower plants f, and fine graflfes that will bear any climate. * Sometimes alfo a want of people or of time, but mod frequently lazinefs, is the reafpn that the increafe of mea- {Jo\vs is neglefted. f- Pallas, vol. ii. p. 75. ]} 74 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY All the meadows may be reduced to thefe four kinds : i . Fine productive meads that have a good black, but fomewhat moifl foil ; thefe yield the greateft crops of hay j to them belong tfie luchten. 2. Dry, whereof the foil is fit for agriculture, and at times is fo employed ; they commonly yield a fhort but very nutritious hay. 3. Watery and marmy ; thefe do not produce the beft, but give a very ferviceable hay in cafes of fcarcity in parching fummers and dry places, 4. Fat fteppes, where the grafs in fome parts grows to the height of a man ; they are feldoni mown. Numbers of watery-meadows might be much improved by draining, and where the mofs im- pedes the growth of grafs, by cultivation ; but thefe works are rarely undertaken ; only fome- times a careful landlord enlarges his meadows by clearing the brufhwood, or by adding a frefh piece to them from the foreft ; but it is generally thought unnecefiary, or at leafl very difficult, to make them level * ; and therefore many mea-? dow-lands have more the appearance of a defert. In diftrifts where the grafs is bad, rank, and acrid, the horfes and cows are gradually accuf. * To remove the inequalities arifing from moles, mofs, &c. is difficult, but very advantageous. The collefted hfllocs make excellent manure. tamed OF THE SOIL, 75 tomed to it, and eat it from hunger, without being followed by any perceptible injury or fick- nefs. 3. Fore/Is. Some regions fuffer a great fcarcity of wood; and confequently, if not all, yet a part of them are uninhabited : whereas others have fuch a fuperfluity of prodigious forefts, that no ufc can be made of them. In Great Ruflia, which, however, is much more thickly peopled than the remoter regions, thefe are feen : as a proof we need only mention the great and almoft un- ufed forefts between Peterfburg and Mofco ; as alfo thofe between Vladimir and Arfamas, which appear even frightful to many travellers. In Si- beria are fome even larger ; for example, about the Ural mountains ; in the diftricl: of the river Tara ; on the Ufa as far as the Kama ; and the mountainous and uninhabited traft of the foreft Aterfkoy, between what lately were the provinces of Perme and Ufa, is 75 verfts over *. Where there are no iron-works, no towns nor rivers in the neighbourhood* thefe fine forefts can neither be ufed nor their produdts be turned into money. The largeft trees fall down with age, or are * See Pallas, vol. iii. p. 466. 470. and 472. broke 76 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY broke by dorms, lie rotting upon the ground, hinder the young fhoots in their growth, and give the forefts a difmal appearance. They often cut down large quantities without making any ufe of them. So, lately, on account of the high- way robbers, who are apt to infefl the forefts, great cuts have been made on both fides of the ways, which give a freer profpect, and allow the air and the fun to act with greater effect in drying the road. There is a great diverfity of trees in the ruffian empire, fome of which (hall be mentioned more particularly hereafter. The large oak forefts in the government of Kazan arefpared and managed with care, as the crown is fupplied with fhip* timber from them. The oak-forefts in Livonia and Efthonia are but fmall ; in Siberia they are not found to grow. On the fubject of forefts a few further remarks are ftill to be made. The emprefs began to think ferioufly of their proper management, which formerly extended only to particular provinces: but was now to reach over the whole empire. By a decree of the 26th of March 1786, it is ordered that the forefts belonging to the crown ihall be defcribed, furveyed, furrounded with a ditch, and regularly fet off into portions for felling, OF THE SOIL. 77 felling *. The fenate therefore iflued its com- mands on the 1 8th of December 1791, to the general governors and their lieutenants, for this purpofe. However, it muft be confefied that the proper culture of timber, in many, or even in moft parts of the empire, is flill to be reckoned among the unufual matters of office ; and that too even where a fenfible fcarcity calls aloud for the utmoft care. A due partition of the falls is but rarely attended to by a private proprietor : the whole of his care commonly goes no far- ther than to the fparing of an adjacent copfe that ferves for an ornament to his inanition, or is favourable to the pleafures of the chace, or af- fords a fhelter in cafe of neceffity. From fimilar caufes feveral forefts about St. Peterfburg are kept up with the greateft attention. The negligence that has hitherto prevailed in thefe refpefts has already long ago in fome diftricts put a total flop to their mine- works, for want of the neceflary fire-wood. At the fame time it is not to be wifhed that this oeconomy in the * As to fuch as are private property ever)' proprietor is left to his own discretion ; it being one of the inherent rights of the nation, that every landholder fhall have the free adminiftration of his own poflefiions : and the govern- ment has never yet taken any flep towards the limitation of the fubjet's voluntary management of his forefts and lands* article 78 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY article of trees fhould be carried to extremity* without having a due refpect for the conflitution of the provinces and the claims of the boors. Thefe, as vaflals can pofiefs no immovable pro- perty : all the wood they want they fetch gratis from the forefts of their lord ; which, from an- tient cuftom, they treat as their own property. They may be compelled, however the late regu- lation may feem to be againfl it, to confine themfelves to the fall of wood allotted for the time ; only neither a kameralhof, nor the here* ditary lord, or his rangers, mud pretend to af- certain how much each boor mall annually take away from the fall ; as his wants cannot be pre- cifely calculated, nor are they every year equally great. He will never fetch away more than he has occafion for at home, unlefs he finds a con- venient opportunity for carrying on a petty trade in the article of firing. Even this ought not to be too fcrupuloufly forbid for two reafons : firft, becaufe, without this, many towns would be en- tirely deftitute of fuel ; fecondly, becaufe the boor would thus be deprived of the means of fupport on a failure of the harveft, or in any other misfortune. There are places where the inhabitants moftly gain their livelihood from the forefts ; as at Kargapol, for example. Confc- ^uently, the management of woods, as pra&ifed in OF THE SOIL. 79 m England and other foreign parts, could not be altogether introduced into Ruflia. The pro- pofal to remove all difficulties by allotting to every cottage its peculiar portion of foreft, could not be every where executed ; and it might like- wife give room to apprehend left the then pof- feflbr, by negligence or by too prodigal a fale of his (hare, might foon let it go to ruin, if competent overfeers were not appointed ; who, as is felt by frequent experience in Livonia, are either thieves themfelves, or for a trifle of money will wink at the depredations of others. 4. Mountains. Several governments are very flat, and almoit one plain throughout; whereas in others are feen not only lofty mountains (landing infulated and alone, but alfo large chains or ridges of mountains. Among others thofe of Finland, Taurida, Kamtmatka, &c. But the moft noted, and in many refpecls the moft beneficial, is that of th lofty Ural. It may be divided into three parts j the kirghifian, the part abounding with ore, and the defert, which reaches as far as the frozen ocean, and is ftill for the moft part unin- habited and unexplored. This monftrous ridge is ufually held to be the line between Europe and Afia, in fuch manner that one fide belongs to 4 each O CLIMATE, AND QUALITY each of thefe quarters of the world. Pallas thinks * that the arm of it which bears the name of Obfhifirt, and traverfes the country between the river Ural and the Samara, may be admitted as the border as far as the Cafpian. The chalk-hills on the Don compofe a large chain, with thofe on the Bufulukf. One principal chain is that which forms the natural boundary between the ruffian empire and that part of Soon- goria which now belongs to China ; called, from the Irtifh to the Oby, the Altaian ; from the Oby to the Yenifley, the fayane mountains, and runs between the Amoor and the Lena, even to the eaftern ocean {. Generally fpeaking, all Daou- ria and the regions lying beyond the Baikal, are mountainous, and many of its particular hills are of confiderable height. Moreover, arms of Caucafus and the Carpathian mountains extend into the european part of the empire. In general, it is to be remarked, that fome are covered with eternal fnow and ice, while others are clothed with forefts and a beautiful herbage. From the fiberian mountains great advantages accrue to the nation on account of the excellent metals with which the) abound. Others contain * Travels, vol. ii. p. y.2 \ Ibid. vol. iii. p. 682. 684* \ Ibid. vol. ii. p. 510. fait- OF THE SOIL. 8l falt-fprings, (and even whole mountains of fait,) or fulphureous and otherwife excellent wells; befides a variety of other valuable products. But there are alfo large fand-hills, which feem to (land there for no ufe whatever, and to have arifen merely from the cafual effects of inunda- tions : they bear, however, fometimes a fort of grafs and herbs. Such are found in the fandy defert Naryn and on the river Achtuba, likewife about the Don, and the Ilovla that falls into it *. On the peninfula of Kamtfhatka and on fome of the iflands in the eaflern ocean are burning mountains. The lofty mountains, from the quantity of melted fnow, during the fummer, frequently caufe inundations. This term does not properly denote low and watery places, or moraffes, but dry, elevated, ex- tenfwe, and for the moft part uninhabited plains. Some of them being deftitute of wood and water, are therefore uninhabitable ; others have fhrufcs growing on them, and are watered by ftreams, at leaft have fprings or wells, though they are void of inhabitants j yet in thefe nomadic people wander about with their herds and flocks, and thus make them, if not their conftant, yet their * Se* Pallas, *ol. in. p. 540. 548. 683. VOL. i. o fum- 2 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY fummer refidence. In many of them are feen villages. Some occupy a very large fpace : thus, it is calculated that the fteppe between Samara and the town of Uralfk * amounts in length to upwards of 700 verfts ; but, as every twenty or thirty verfts we come to a lake or river, the Ural-kozaks traverfe them when they fetch their meal from Samara. Probably hereafter feveral of thefe fteppes, at leaft in fome places, will be cultivated, if they wifh to raife forefts upon them. In regard to the foil an extreme variety pre- vails, either being very fruitful and proper for agriculture or for meadow-land, or mdifcrimi- nately for both. Accordingly in the fteppe about the Don, the kozaks of thofe parts employ themfelves in agriculture, as well as in the breed- ing of cattle. Some of them furnifli excellent pafture by their fine herbage, as the fouthern traft of the ifetfkoi province, and the fteppe of the middle horde of the Kirghiftzi f. Or the foil is unfruitful : whether it be the fand, the fait, or the ftone it contains that is the caufe of it. Among thefe are to be reckoned the fandy fteppe on the Irtifh near Omfk ; in general we find about the mountains up the Irtifh pure arid * Formerly .Yaik. f Pallas, vol. ii. p. 75. fteppes, OF THE SOIL. 83 fteppes, and therefore no villages. Alfo the Krafno-ufimfkoi, between the rivers Belaia, Kama, and TchufTovaia, towards the Ural-chain, is moflly fandy ; and that on the Argoun towards the borders of China, is of a flill worfe foil, con- fiding of rocky particles and flint. The whole of the fteppe along the river Kuflium, towards the town of Urallk, is defcribed by prof. Pallas* as dry, poor, faline, and unfit for any kind of agriculture, for the breed of cattle, and even for permanent inhabitants ; there is not even a foli- tary fhrub to be feen, much lefs any wood. In general faline fpots are not unfrequent in the fteppes ; and here and there we alfo meet with falt-lakes : however, fuch diftridls may invite to camel-pafture. Moft of the fteppes are of a changing foil. So Pallas calls the extenfive Baraba, from the Irtifh to the Oby, a beautiful country bleflfed with game and fifli ; for though one part of it is fa- line, yet it contains a great many lakes as well as large tracts very well adapted to agriculture. So likewile is the vaft fteppe of Kuman in many places fandy, dry, and deftitute of water ; yet its flats which border on the river Kuma feeni for- merly to have been well peopled, and at prefent very favourable to that end. * Travels, vol. iii. p. 525. G 2 The 84 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY The fteppes are frequently fired, either by the negligence of travellers, or on purpofe by the herdfmen, in order to forward the crops of grafs ; or, it may be, out of malice, as fome years fmce the kozaks of the Yaik did ; when, having rifen in rebellion, a fmall corps of ruffian troops ad- vancing againft them, they faw themfelves all at once almoft entirely furrounded by the high grafs on fire* Such a cataftrophe often occa- fions great mifchief ; the flames fpread themfelves far and wide, put the dwellings of the inhabit- ants in imminent danger, confume the corn on the ground, and even feize on the forefts. Many prohibitions under fevere penalties have accordingly been hTued againft this practice, but they feldom have any effect *. All the fteppes %iay be confidered as a fort of common land. Moraffes. Of thefe alfo are great plenty, and of very va- rious magnitudes. Thus the northern verge of Siberia towards the mores of the frozen ocean, for feveral hundred verfts in width, is one pro- digious watery morafs, grown over with mofs, and entirely deftitute of wood, and which in fummer is only thawed to the depth of about a fpan f. In the interior of the empire we meet * See Palla, vol. if* p. 378. f Ibid. voL iii. p. 23. with OF THE SOIL. 85 with fmaller j and many of the forefls have a fwampy bottom : among others may be noticed the trad between the rivers Kama and Viaetka, which is very woody and boggy. They may be reduced under the following four general kinds : i . Simply low watery land ; fuch is capable of being improved, by letting off the water in the common methods, or by removing the trees that (hade the ground, and prevent the wind and the fun from a&ing upon it; it then may become good meadow and arable land. 2. Swamps, which, when they have but fome drain for the water, bear at lead fhrubs ; they yield turf formed out of the mofs, and even at times produce a little hay. 3. Bottomlefs mo- rales, which appear to be lakes grown over. They frequently will bear neither man nor bead. Only when they gradually thicken their upper fhell by vegetation, fome grafs may be cut upon them. They admit of no farther improvement than what Nature herfelf effects by degrees. Sometimes they have a few miferable low bumes upon them, but generally none at all. 4. Mofs- moraffes, the deep and ufelefs mofs of which will permit neither graf nor a fhrub to grow, or at mod only a few low wretched flicks of fir, &c. which prefently wither and die. They are abfo- lutely unprofitable; at lead they are held to be fo. G 3 Thus 86 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY . Thus we fee that fome moraffes are not with- out their utility, either by yielding a, little hay in dry feafons, or as containing turf, which in parts that produce no wood may be advantageoufly employed. Yet even the worft morafles cannot be pronounced deflitute of all utility : at lead in wet, rainy years they draw off a great quantity of water into them, and thereby prevent inunda- tions, even fuch as would arife from the melting fnows, and laft a long time ; they therefore help to dry more fpeedily the higher lands that have been overflowed. Waftes. Trafts which, by reafon of their rocky or at leafl flinty toil, admit of no culti\ ;uion ; or on account of their deep quickfands, which will fcarcely fuffer a poor blade ot grafs to (hoot up ; or on account of their mofs, or their eternal ice, are totally unfruitful, feem to require no particu- lar clafs, as they may aptly enough be referred to that of the wild fteppe* or the horrid morafles. Yet travellers fometimes ipeak of fand-waftes. One of this fort, open, bare of fhrubs or buihes, is feen near Shelefenfka * ; alfo on the Irtifh and in the Baraba are fandy and faline waftes, which never can be turned to any purpofes of agricul- * Pallas, vol. ii. p. 462. ture. OF THE SOIL. 87 ture*. Still larger is the fand-wafte Anketeri, between the rivers Kuma and Terek f. But the largeft of all, named Naryn, commences between the river Ufen and the falt-lake Elton, and flretches quite to the Cafpian-fea; yet, on the plains between the fand-hills, are good fields, and might here and there be inhabited {. Pa/lure-grounds. Neither do thefe properly need to be particu- larized j for though there are large tracts of land, ferving merely as pafture, yet in general fields, meads, forefts, fteppes, moraffes, and even waftes, are ufed as fuch. The empire contains them in an innumerable abundance j many, from their fine grafies and fodder, are of uncommon good- nefs. Hence it is, that in fo many 'parts we have fuch excellent cattle ; and the pafture- grounds, which are, ftrictly fpeaking, commons, invite as it were to the nurture of cattle. The whole Ukraine, the country near Archangel, and fome of the fteppes, are famous for their excellent paftures, and confequently for their fine cattle. * Pallas, vol. in. p. 274. -) Id. ibid. p. 541 and 590. ijl Id. ibid. p. 532, & feq. 04 By 88 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY By a late ordinance, on each fide of the high- roads all over the empire a broad fpace is left, which may not be granted to any perfon as pro- perty, nor be ploughed nor mown, but remain free that travellers may always find pafture for their horfes, as well as drovers for their cattle, along the roads to the various towns. Salt-places. Thefe are not ufually introduced under the head of land and foil of a country; but in treat- ing of Ruffia it is neceflary, from the inex- hauftible quantity of its falt-places, which are of exceeding great importance to the ftate, to its inhabitants, and to the revenue. Efpecially in Siberia an amazing quantity of fait is pro- duced. Salt is a monopoly of the crown ; which fup- plies the empire with it at an extremely moderate price *. However, fome provinces are excepted, who either fetch their fait themfelves entirely free of expence from the lakes j for example, the Ural-kozaks ; or buy it of foreigners, as the provinces of the Baltic ; and then the crown * Therefore a guard is conftantly kept at the falt-places, to prevent perfons from fetching fait from them contrary to law. takes OF THE SOIL. 89 takes only the lake-tax. Mr. Pallas complains, in his travels, that from the preparing it at the falt-lakes, from the method of tranfport, and from general negligence, it is delivered uncom- monly foul j and therefore he recommends the rock-falt, which is eafily clarified. Omitting the fea-falt*, we may reduce the falt-phces under the following claries: I. Rock-falt from the falt-mountains. To this clafs belong, among others : i . The Iletzk in the region of Orenburg, which is well-known from the writings of feveral authors. 2. Thai in the mountain-ridge Arfargal-Shoogot in the fleppe towards the Volga j it has not hitherto been fufficiently brought into ufe, but is ex- ceedingly pure and clear f. 3. The falt-hilla about 150 verfls from Tchernoyar. Probably alfo the region of mount Bogdo contains the fame fort of fait {. II. Salt-lakes, the multitude of which, efpe- cially in Siberia, is not to be defcribed ; where * Georgj, in his paper for the prize at the academy, has exprefsly mentioned the fea-falt near Archangel, which he might juftly do, as fome fait is aftuaUy obtained there from fea-water. And theie is no reafon why the fame me- thods might not be praftifcd clfewhere if neccffary. f And therefore Mr. Pallas recommends it ; travel, vol. iii. p- 543, & fcq. J As Mr. Pallas fuppofes* id. ibid. p. 67$. the QO CLIMATE, AND QUALITY the fait, without boiling or any other prepara- tion, forms itfeif, and fhoots into thick fcales. Of this kind are : i. That in the Kuman-fteppe, whence the Don-kozaks fetch fait in great quan- tities *. 2. The lake Elton. The fait that forms itfelf in this is inexhauftible. 3. fiogdin- ikoi or Bogdom Dabaflu, another inexhauftible falt-lake, in the fteppe towards Tzaritzin. Its fait is better than that of the Elton f. 4. Inder- fkoi, or the falt-lake Inder, in the country of the Ural-kozaks : it is not lefs than 26 verfts in circumference, and yields excellent fait. 5. Ebe- Icri, in the country of Kirghis-kozaks, and particularly in the region where the river To- bol takes its rife. 6. Borfmfkoi in Daouria, whence alfo fometimes Nertfhinfk and other places are fupplied. 7. The falt-lakes of Ufen, whence the Ural-kozaks take their fait. 8. The Guriefikoi, fome of which, and parti- cularly two, are much efteemed. They lie in the Kirghis-fleppe. For a long time the produce of them was brought under an efcort to Gurief, where every inhabitant received it gratis from the magazine. 9. The Koriakoffkoi falt-lake, in the fteppe 22 verfts from the Irtifh; the fait * *' * Pallas's travels, vol. fli. p. 587, & feq. f Id. ibid. p. 672, & feq. 6 of OF THE SOIL. 91 of which, amounting annually to 450,000 pood, is brought in flat-bottomed boats to To- bolik*. To fpecify particularly other falt- lakes would be fuperfiuous ; but they are ia great numbers in Tauridaand elfewhere. III. Salt-fprings. There are of thefe which flow with fait in its proper ftate, for inftance in the government of Irkutfk ; but their number is very inconfiderable ; and therefore it will only be neceflary to notice thofe where works eitfter are or might be railed. Of this fort, where fait is actually prepared, we find in the government of Perme at three places, viz. i. In the town of Solikamlk. 2. In the village Uffoliye. 3. In the hamlet Chuffoftkoi-gorodok. Some be- long to the crown, and others to private owners, who deliver their fait to the crown at a price agreed on. But there are alfo of the fame kind in other parts ; as at Staraia-Rufla. Buf- ching is miflaken in faying that the works there are all gone to ruin. General Bauer has very much improved them, and his improvements have been in part introduced in Permia. The did rift of Irkutfk ufes annually from 60 to 70,000 pood of fait ; and that quantity is pre- pared there. Sometimes the pood of fait softs the crown on the fpot only 4* kopecks j * Pallas, vol. ii. p. 473. but 92 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY but with the freight in Kungour 12, though in Nifhnei-Novgorod no more than about 10 ko- pecks. IV. Salt-ftreams. Salt or faline ft reams are numerous, befides thofe which Mr. Pallas has mentioned by name *. Speaking of the ftream Solenka, which falls into the Achtuba, he is of opinion that its kitchen-falt would increafe by damping it in the heat of the fun. V. Salt-grounds, which are dry, are found in abundance ; as on the weftern margin of the fand-wafte Naryn, and in the Kuman-fteppe ; Hkewife in the fteppe between the town Uralik and Aftrakhan ; fome are fo fait, that many bare places appear entirely white with it. The Tavri-nor is a dry flat falt-ground in Daouria, extending in length, towards Mongolia, 30 verfts, and in its greateft breadth above 20 : it may be confidered as a great emptied lake. The fteppes of Ifet, Ifchim, and the Baraba, as alfo the region beyond the Baikal, are rich in natrous glauber-falt j bitter-falt-grounds are likewife ieen about the rivers Selenga, Chilok, Chikoi, Onon, and Argoun. So the fteppe about the ftream Kufhum, towards Uralfk, contains many faline places f. * Travels, vol. ill p. 585. f Id. ibid. paffim. Mines. OF THE SOIL. 93 Mines, Thefe ftill lefs than the falt-places feem to be- long to the prefent feclion : but, on account of their great number and produftivenefs, they re- quire notice under a peculiar head ; and I could find no fitter place than this to introduce it. Almoft all the mine-works of the empire are of the prefent century ; being firft fet forward by Peter the great. But, though fome pretend that the attempts made "by tzar Alexey Mi- chailovitfh in 1676 were of no effect, yet this requires fome rectification. The academical kalendar of St. Peterfburg for the year 1790 mentions that the firft difcovery of copper and iron ore was made 162 years ago, and that then the firft iron was made into bars. This then implies no ineffectual attempt : there were al- ready in the laft century, in the parts about Mofco, iron- works, which brought their pro- prietors confiderable profit *. However, at that time, all metals, even iron, were fcarce in Ruf- fia ; and there were noblemen who could not Jhew an iron nail in their houfes. Indeed there are ftill but few mines in Great-Ruf- * A german merchant of Mofco, named Miller, was -one of thefe ; and the family of Demidof had then begua to work their mines. 94 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY fia * ; but fo much the more numerous are they in Siberia : when once thefe were difcovered and opened, the ruffian empire had plenty of metals of all kinds. They may be pronounced inex- hauftible, in the ftricteft fenfe of the word : they yield, according to their different defcriptions, gold, filver, copper, iron, lead, femi-metals, {tone, &c. That native gold, filver, and copper are alfo found, we have fufficient teftimony from profeflbr Pallas f. The works creeled at them are in great multitudes ; and yet they might be very much increafed, as vaft quantities of ore lie ftill untouched for want of hands, and here and there for want of forefts. The greater part of thofe now working are in the fpacious mine- ral mountain-ridge of Ural ; which is covered with great forefts, though they are already in many places entirely confumed in the works }. From all an incredible quantity of copper and iron is produced ; they were moftly not under- taken till towards the middle of the prefent * Indications of metals are found in many parts, even in Livonia and in Finland, or the prefent government of Viborg ; but are not worked on account of their little confidence. f Travels,, vol. ii. p. 60, & feq. J Some are of opinion that no woods can grow on mine- ral-mountains. century. "I..;, -OF THE SOIL. 95 century. They are fo very numerous that fome of them are prefently abandoned on the fuppo- fition that they are poor, or that richer may be found in the vicinity *. The Bafhkirs of thcfe parts are diligent fearchers for mines, and readily impart their difcoveries, when encouraged to it by little rewards. Among the mineral- mountains the Schlangenberg is remarkably pro- ductive in gold and filver ; the Tfchudes ex- plored it feveral ages ago. It forms a part of the Altaian-chain, but (lands diftincl from it, about 95 verfts northward from the Irtifh. In the mountains of the Yeniffey traces of the noble metals are every where difcovered : the^ may probably therefore fome time hence come into great employ. The emperor Peter I. was very felicitous to make the moft advantage of fuch a fource of em- ployment and wealth as the ruffian mines pre- fented, and therefore made it his ftudy to en- courage his fubjeds to work them. Accordingly, about the year 1/19, he iflued a grant in favour * Several have been given up without fufficient reafon, on falfe information : an inftance whereof is given by Pallas, in his travels, vol. iii. p. 381. Sometimes a mine is aban* doned till the wood is grown up again. They do not take the trouble to feparate the filver and gold from the copper, becaufe they can have it at a cheaper rate. This accounts for the copper coin of Siberia having a mixture of gold in it. of 96 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY of miners ; wherein, among other things, he or- dains, that the works fhall be erected at the coft of the crown, and that then they fhall be fettled in perpetuity on the individual j but from whom the reimburfement of the firft expence mall be demanded by inftalments proportionate to the produce. At the fame time he regulates the im- perialty, and orders that every mine-work mail have a ftated number of crown-boors appropri- ated to it, yet only fo far as that they may earn their head-money ; that is, that they may work it out ; but the matters of the works pay this tax into the coffers of the crown. Afterwards, how- ever, he had not time, or forgot to fix precifely by what rule this labour mould be] appreciated ; when it was to be demanded, &c. In the ar- chives of the college of mines, now abolifhed, is a writing figned by the emperor's own hand, with the fignatures of a commiffion confifting of eight perfons : whence it appears, that in the year 1722 he intended to farm out all the mine-works belonging to the crown to the french MiflifTippi-company ; but this matter was never brought to effect. The emprefs Anna began by conducting the mines in the faxon manner ; as the principal director at that time was a native of Saxony ; and iffued other regulations con- cerning the crown-boors working for their head- OF THE SOIL. 97 head-money. The emprefs Elizabeth followed the advice of fome perfons, who were not fa- vourable to the Germans ; and therefore what- ever thefe had introduced was now rejected. She made grants of mines to feveral rich ruffian families, with great numbers of crown-boors, whom every mine-owner tafked with as much la- bour as he pleafed for their trifling head-money: which caufed many infurrections among them. When Catherine II. mounted the throne, me made it her firft endeavour to remedy the prefent grievances, and to prevent them for the future ; but in this me proceeded with the greateft precaution. Accordingly, in 1766 me inftituted a particular commiffion, to examine into the whole ftate of the bufmefs, and to lay before her the refult of their inquiries. Count Peter Panin prefided at this board, and had feve- ral refpectable men to affift him. From the ex- tent of the affairs they had to infpect, and the intervention of feveral accidents, the progrefs they made was flow ; in the mean time matters became daily more prefling, and the emprefs demanded a fpeedy termination, as the boors, who had been made to hope for fome relief, were kept in anxious expectation by the delay. At length the commiflioners brought the affair to a conclufion. It was not poilible entirely to VOL. i. H free 98 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY free the crown-boors from the labour of the mines, as their obligation to it was founded on law ; namely, the patent and regulation relating to mines abovementicned ; and, moreover, as without thefe labours feveral mine-undertakings muft have totally gone to ruin. But the enr prefs found out an expedient, by precifely de- fining thofe tafks, whereby the works might be kept up, and the boors completely fatisned. In what manner this was done will prefently be fhewn. We have feen that the mines belong, fome to the crown, and others to private-owners. What the former produce, will more properly be in- troduced in the fedion of the revenues of the empire. It is here only neceflary juft to mention that to the crown principally belong the follow- ing : i. Several iron-works in various places. 2. Several copper-mines, likewife in various places, particularly in the government of Perme. 3. The gold-works or gold-wafhes at Ekaterinen- burg. 4. Some filver-works, of great confe- quence ; as at Nertfhinfk, which fometimes go under the name of the Argoim-woiks, as they are called by Bufching : but on the Argoun are at prefent no ereclions, as it was found neceflary to remove them to Nertfhinfk. But thofe of Kolyvan are the greateft and mod productive, alfo OF THE bOIL. gg alfo denominated from Barnaul or Kolyvanovof- krefenikoi ; and the beforementioned richly- yielding Schlangenberg, from which the ore is carried to the works at Barnaul or Kolyvan, is of this number. Of the filver it is to be remarked, that gold is alfo feparated from it ; which is fent only to Petersburg, as the place to which the blick-filvef goes from the works. The gold and filver are looked upon as pure gain, as all the neceflary expences are repaid by the copper at the fame time obtained. All I am able to learn concerning the quantity of gold produced at Barnaul and the Schlangenberg is, that, from 1745 to 1780 it amounted to 686 pood, 16 pound, 49 folotniks of pure gold. The mine-undertakings of private individuals met with every needful encouragement from the crown. Whoever difcovered a mine and was inclined to work it, was allowed to make the pro- per difpofitions in erections, digging, &c. for which he was granted ten years free ; the adven- turer was put in pofleffion of the property of the ground as a freehold, provided it belonged to the crown *, with convenient places on the banks of ftreams and rivers for the works and neceflary buildings, and a confiderable extent of foreft ; * Many afterwards obtained a mine by purchafe, &c. H 2 and 160 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY and when he had no boors of his own that he could fet to work, he received a certain number out of thofe raifed for recruits ; who were always to remain with the works, and to multiply them- felves there ; if thefe proved inefficient, other boors were given him, to perform the occafional labours in lieu of their head-money. Only, in all private undertakings of this fort, the crown retained certain imperialia, fuch as : i. All the filver found to be delivered to government for a ftated compenfation. 2. A yearly tax on every furnace ; for the principal one in iron-works i oo rubles ; for every copper fmelting-furnace 5 rubles. 3. Of copper and crude iron one tenth. 4. The half of all copper, for coinage ; for which the proprietor received j rubles per pood. 5. All forts of veflels for the artillery and the admiralty for a ftated price, fettled in 1715 and 1728. 6. The tithe of the capital of the minerals or ores. In all this the late emprefs, to the exceeding great benefit of the proprietors, and to the en- couragement of her fubjecls, made many alter- ations j by feveral edifts or ukafes having relin- quilhed the imperialia, and abolilhed the taxes. The delivery for the admiralty and the artillery was given up in 1770; and, as an aft of grace on occafion of the peace of 1775, the tenth of 7 the OF THE SOIL. 10 1 the capital of the minerals, as well as the tax on the furnaces, with the tenth of the copper and raw iron, were remitted. As to the delivery of one moiety of the copper at a dated price for coinage, a fhort account will be given of it under the article of revenue. Laftly, the emprefs, by anukafeofthe 28th of June 1782, entirely abo- liihed the requifition of the filver ; and permitted the private proprietors to explore gold and filver for themfelves ; only the ground muft entirely belong to the undertaker, or be voluntarily made over to him, and the work muft only be per- formed by his own or hired free people : for nei- ther crown-boors nor crown-forefts are any longer to be granted *. In virtue of this ukafe the mine-owner is at liberty to fell at pleafure what- ever gold and filver and precious (tones he finds : only with this refervation, that he pay the tenth of the two former into the coffers of the emprefs. This however was fomewhat altered in favour of the nobility by ukafe in 1785, who are thereby allowed to open mines on their own eftates, and to difpofe of the filver and gold they find, at pleafure, without any tribute to the crown. Thus, by the aforementioned ukafes and aft of grace, important advantages are accorded to * Indeed the crown has no longer fuch abundance of either as to be able to do it. H 3 the IO2 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY the owners of mines and firft adventurers, and the royalties ufually required in other kingdoms and empires, are facrificed to the benefit of the fubjec~t and the augmentation of the national wealth. Notwithstanding which, we have not heard, that fmce that time, at leaft not fmce the interval between 1782 and 1786, any new works have been erected, though there are ftill mines enough to be difcovered. But many who would adventure are in want of people ; the forefts be- gin here and there to decline ; and fuch under- takings require great capitals. Neither have there been, fmce thofe ukafes, any gold and filver mines opened by private individuals : there is indeed one owned by a perfon in the mineral mountains of Nertfhinfk j but he had the grant of it before that period. The crown has occafionally, not merely grant- ed one of its mine-works, according to the ori- ginal inflitution, but regularly fold it to a private perfon. Thus, one of three iron-works, and that a very productive one, was purchafed, with all the people belonging to it, pits and erections, together with a confiderable fored, for 200,000 rubles, as we are informed by profeflbr Pallas ; who alfo mentions another in fimilar circum- flances. The crown has alfo bought fome of them back again. Inftances are not wanting pf OF THE SOIL. 103 of private perfons who have unlawfully appro- priated to themfelves mines belonging to the crown. In cafes where the proprietor does not refide on the fpot, he appoints an overfeer, who is rarely a perfon of condition, fuch as a difbanded officer, &c. but ufually a vaflal from among the boors, who can read and write, and is called a prikafchik. Such an one at times has the ma- nagement of an eftate or comtoir, turning half a million of rubles annually, provides for the whole concern, and makes his employer rich. In other countries feme dozens of perfons would be placed in fuch a truft, as checks on one another. In regard to the workmen it has already been obferved, that at firft it was the practice to aflign a certain number of crown-boors to private ad- venturers, (many of whom, being fimply mer- chants, had no vaflals, and could procure no voluntary workmen,) who were to work out their head-money in that capacity. But from this method oppreflions arofe : the people were allowed no refpite from labour, with hardly any recompence, and no confideration had to the length of way they muft travel to the works, &c. During the reign of the emprefs Elizabeth they therefore rofe in many villages ; fo that it was H 4 neceffary 104 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY necefiary to fend regiments of foldiers againfl them, which occafioned lamentable fcenes, but which are not to our prefent purpofe. The late emprefs put a flop to all thefe horrors, by afcertaining when and how much the boors fhould work for their head-money. Since that time they can only be fet on when they have no labours of hufbandry to do ; fo that in fummer they fometimes want hands at the mines. For their head-money, of 1 70 kopecks each foul, they work at the rate of every day in fummer, with a horfe, 20 kopecks; without a horfe 10; but in the winter they are paid 1 2 and 8 kopecks a-day. Some matters hire men from other parts, even crown-boors, when they have none of their own. To fuch volunteers they pay at fome works from 13 to 15 kopecks for every i oo pood of ore. Where the upper ore is eafy to be got, boys and girls are employed at the rate of 3 kopecks per day : they prefs in crowds to this employment. - The mailer workmen at the crown-mines are obliged to get 100 pood of ore every 12 hours ; for which they are paid from 1 4 to 1 8 rubles per annum ; but a man that feparates the ore, 24 ru- bles. The ore is ufually roafled on the fpot, and then conveyed, fometimes by voluntary car- riers, to the fmelting-houfes : thefe receive for every pood, when they have 3 verfts to carry it, a quarter OF THE SOIL. 105 a quarter of a kopeck ; and when the diftance is 1 5 verfts, three quarters of a kopeck, carriage- hire. At the crown-mines of Barnaul, be- fides their own people, they employ about 48,000 boors, who earn their head-money there. They have always been well treated, even before the ukafe of 1782. The mines of the Schlangenberg, and in gene- ral the Barnaul, are in all refpects of great confe- quence. Of the gold and filver we mall be more particular when we come to fpeak of the re- venue j but copper and iron require fome notice here. The pood of copper ftands the proprie- tor in fomewhat above 4 or 5 rubles. In trade it is reckoned there at 9 rubles. In Peterfburg it is far dearer. According to Pallas's ftate- ment, at fome pits on the Ural, a hundred weight of good copper-ore yields 24 pounds of copper, and ^ to 1 1 lots of fine filver ; confequently, from i oo pood of ore nearly 2 pounds of filver may be got. Hermann reckons only from i to 5 per cent, garcopper. They have iron-flone that yields 59 or 60 per cent; but moft commonly it is 25 per cent. Hermann fpeaks even of 70 per, cent. Raw iron at many works cofts the crown not more than 10 or n kopecks the pood ; but caft iron from 22 to 25 j and of forted iron 41 or 42 kopecks I06 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY kopecks the pood ; however in fome places it is rather dearer. The greateft part is fhipped outwards, and to that end brought to Peterfburg by water. To private proprietors the pood of iron, with the tranfport to Peterfburg, comes at moft to from 55 to 60 kopecks ; but it fetches there from 70 to 120 kopecks: in the year 1789 it was much dearer. Mr. Hermann calculates that the Ural mines (comprehending, however, the falt-work there) iince the acceffion of Catherine II. that is from 1762 to 1787, when he made the eflimate, have enriched the empire to the value of 1 84 millions of rubles. One wife meafure is, that at the fiberian mine-works they have begun to purfue agriculture. It is a great advantage to the crown, that from its works at Nertfhinfk upwards of 60,000 poods of lead may be obtained ; of which about 30,000 poods are delivered at the Barnaul works for fmelting the hard ores of that place : and thereby much quickfilver is fpared *, Of the principal mountains of Rujjia. The mountains of Ruffia may be divided into diftinct heads, of which the greater part * Hupel, verfuch des ftaatfverfaflung des Ruflifcheji reichs darzuftdlen, vol. i. p. 81, & feqq. form OF THE SOIL. 107 form principal chains of themfelves ; \vhile others are only continuations of huge ridges, the major part whereof are in the bordering ter- ritories. Thefe divifions are : i . The Sieverniya- gori, or northern mountains, extending between the Baltic and the White Sea. 2. The Valday mountains. 3. The mountains of Taurida. 4. The Caucafean mountains. 5. The Ural mountains. 6. The Altay mountains. 7. The Sayane mountains. 8. The Baikal mountains. 9. The Nerchinfkaia mountains. 10. The Ok- hotfkoy mountains j and 1 1. The Kamtlhatfkoy mountains. I. The northern mountains, between the Bal- tic and the White Sea. 'The mountains of Ruffian Lapland. Under this head are to be clafled not only thofe branches which may be confidered as con- tinuations of the fcandinavian range, and enter on the ruffian territory between the White-fea and the Onega-lake, but likewife all the moun- tains of the governments of Viborg, Olonetz, and Archangel ; efpecially thofe in the circle of Kola, or in ruffian Lapland. They lie almofl totally beyond the 6oth deg. of north lat., and, in length, from weft to eaft, take up a fpace of more than 1 5 degrees. They are for the moil part but very little known. The accounts we are JO8 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY are in pofiemon of are as follow : they proceed from St. Peterfburg, where, about the low country on both fides the Neva, and towards the gulf of Finland, the ground plainly ap- pears to be a mixture of fand and flime, with numerous, often very large pieces of granite, and to have been overflown and left by the fea. In this ground, fome forty years ago, as they were digging a deep canal at Strelna, not far from St. Peterfburg, towards the neighbouring gulf of Finland, under feveral alternate ftrata of fliff loam and earth, nay even below a ftratum of ftone, the workmen came to an oaken barge, but little altered otherwife than by the black colour it had acquired, with feveral human ikeletons, and heaps of ftraw or fhilf, perfectly diftinguifhable. From Peterfburg, quite to Tof- nimfkoi-yam, we have fandy plains, tending ncrth-eaftward till about Olonetz ; thence, pro- ceeding as far as the lake Kotk *, where they extend about the foot of a fet of moun- tains, arifmg from the Finnifh hills, confid- ing of granite and black (probably micaceous argillaceous) flate, diverfified with numerous vales and pits, which, continuing fouth-eafl- wards, part the fandy level from the juft men- tioned trappftone. mountains, on this fide. Con- tinuing our courfe from Petroffk(or Petrofavodfk, * Kotkozcro. DOW OF THE SOIL. IO9 now the chief town of the government of Olonetz), and having pafled the iron-works northwards along the weftern fide of the Onega-lake, over the river Shuya which falls into it, and having reached the mountains that abound in iron ore, we meet with one of the principal curiofities of thefe parts, in the martial waters of Uflbna, Muun-ozero, &c. Here are feen a vaft quantity of ftems, branches, twigs, leaves, and roots of birch-trees, and other exuviae of vegetables, entirely mineralized by iron, with the diverfe texture of the rotten wood plainly vifible, in which mineralizations the tender white rind, known to be in the higheft degree incorruptible, is preferved quite in its natural appearance, the foil changed into a rich ferruginous earth, and the grafly fod into iron ore. The like tranfmutations are feen in all the low fpots and pits that incline towards the Muun lake, but particularly near the martial waters, and over-againft the village Buigova. Here lie the iron-ore in a wide-extended valley, forefted apart with birch-trees, and with gently-rifing hills on both its fides. In this valley, though not in its deepeft bottom, iflue the martial fprings, which, in 1716, by command of Peter I. were fitted with accommodations for public ufe. The well is funk about three arfhines and a half below the furface, in a hole in ground confifting of lid CLIMATE, AND QUALITY of heaps of roots both of trees and herbs (which are partly mineralized) and intermingled with flakes of ftone, then an arfhine and a half in a clayey kind of a ftone, mixed with a great quantity of fulphur pyrites. In the deep points of the valley there is a layer of vitriolic earth under the forementioned, which is a mixture of iron-earth and fwampy iron-ore *. It is eafily got, and is then taken to the vitriol-works there and boiled. The mountain-rockf of the heights rifmg from the valley is the kind of ftone mixed with pyrites beforementioned on the Brunnenfole, mingled with gravel. The weftern heights incline into the Muun lake, from which the peninfula Deknavolok rifes to an uncommon height, and ftill exhibits the fame fort of ftone mixed with a furprifmg quantity of gravel and ftriated with the fame fragments. On the northern or more north-weftern fide of the Onega lake, the trapp- ftone mountains take their rife from the river Shuya, partly reaching to a confiderable height^ * A fpecies of the rafeneifenftein, ferrum ochraceum, refpititium minera ferri fubaquofa; bog or fwampy iron ore;, jphofphate of iron. f Bergart. The various rocks or floney fubffances which compofe what in mining is called the country, or that part of a mountain which is immediately traverfed by the veins compofed of ore and the fubftances which ferve as a gaugue or matrix. partly OF THE SOIL. 1 I I partly flat, partly protuberant, and only towards the upper end of the lake gently rifmg, de- tached, and for the moft part ftretching to the White Sea. Thefe trappftone mountains, in fome places interfperfed with ferpentin, are in feveral directions, fays M. Renovantz, vifibly (perhaps only apparently) underlaid* by the marble, as at Tievdeva and Pereguba. Near the former of thefe two villages, which is not far from Onega, the marble rifes out of a river fwelling to a confiderable height, and unterteuft) on its greateft elevation, where are found great quantities of white and grey chalk-ftone, inter- fperfed with coppery talcf, copper pyrites, and verdigris, about the trappftone mountains to- wards the Sondall-lake. It is from this mafs of marble, as well as from that on the northern part of the Ladoga lake, near Rufskoll and Serdopol, that the blocks are hewn for the im- perial erections at St. Petersburg. This marble, lying in flakes, difcovers no trace of petrifica- tions, but is in many places plentifully inter- fperfed with particles of friable quartz, which gives it in feveral parts the quality of emitting fparks upon collifion. In the various lakes hereabouts are iilands, confiiling of the iame chalk-flone. * Uoterteuft. f Kupferglas. The 112 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY The trappftone mountains proceed from Tiev- deva, both on the mores of the Onega lake to- wards the north-eaft, and in another direction towards the north. In the bay formed in this lake, called Pereguba, projects a low peninfula, named Pertnavolok, apparently from under the trapp, which confifts of a quartzy marble. The trappftone mountain in thefe parts is frequently covered at its foot with ftrata of granite, trapp, marble, and quartz, and containing ferruginous and cuprous ore, in nefts and heaps juft under the fod *. The peninfula Ufnavolok on the eaft fide of the Onega bay, and inclining into the lake of that name, and is in immediate connection with the circular chain of mountains, contains feveral of the like congeries, in which fome portions of vitreous copper ore, a few of aibeftus, and (till fewer of mica, are interfperfed. The ftrise of thefe fubftances, thus fituated, extend in many fcarcely to a fathom, and their furface, accord- ing to the depth, ftill lefs. Another vein of quartz contains fpecular iron ore, and green fchorl. In the middle of the circular chain of mountains, after the mountain has rifen to a very great height toward the north-weft, and tending farther again toward the north-weft, lies a morafs overgrown with firs, pines, and birch-trees, from which rifes a fmaller, and clofe * In Taggehaengen neftern und gefchutten. by OF THE SOIL. ilj by that a higher hill. Thefe two hills confift of a grey trapp, flightly mingled here and there with coppery pyrites. Between the hills runs a courfe of loofe fand, in fome places a fathom and a half in depth, in others lefs, mingled with many large and fmall pebbles ; and under it a heap of from one to two and a half fathoms, as if compofed of round grains of quartz run to- gether, and is plentifully mingled with motley and brafs-coloured fmall nodules of copper-py- rites, vitreous copper-ore, cuprous talc ore, green and blue copper-ochre, fmgly likewife with afbeftus, hardened fmall nodules of clay, little trapp nodules, and fome few cryftal-gypfum or felenitical nodules, and through which a waving and inclining cleft extends not more than three inches thick, and filled with fand and micac. Thefe trapp-mountains then proceed towards Lumpufcha on the Onega, and thence, amidfl a variety of rivers, morafles, and lakes, on which little granite ifles appear; on all fides forming a delightful fcene, fhaping their courfe northward to Voyets or Voytz, a peninfula, laved on two of its fides by the lake Vyg and on the third by the river of that name which flows towards the White-fea, where is feen a remark- able gold-mine, long fince done working. About Lumpufcha the trapp-mountain is violently mat- tered ; huge rocky fragments, ftruck off from VOL, i. i the 114 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY the projecting parts, lie fcattered at its foot. The trapp is here much mixed with fpecular iron ore. Not far off is the Vitzga, a ftream with numerous falls, flowing out of the fuperior lakes, and lofmg itfelf in the Onega ; on one of its {hores, which is quite fteep, are lofty fand- hills. Hence, till about Povenetz, thefe moun- tains gently decline, covered with fand and ponderous mafles of granite, to the Onega. Near Povenetz, the river of that name purfues its noify downward courfe^ over rocks and pro- jecting walls of granite. In the Vyg lake alfo feveral granite iflands, among many others, make their appearance, their foflll-quality con- fiding of feldfpar, quartz, and micaceous earth, to the thicknefs of one's fift ; the fame is feen in fome iflands on the coaft of the White-fea to- wards Soroka. The peninfula Voytz, on the other hand, confifts of a country of quartz and curved lamellated talc, or a very quartzy gneifs, which (hews itfelf again about a verfl farther to the fouth, in an ifland where is an abundance of quartz fragments interfperfed with fpecular iron-ore and copper-pyrites. On the gneifly- country of the Voytz-hills appears a coarfe fer-. pentine of a greyifh green colour. In this gneifs runs a vein of quartz interfperfed with blue copper-ore, in which formerly lumps of native gold of; ibme- marcs in weight appeared* This Voytz- OF THE SOIL. 115 Voytz-hill is feparated from the weftern trapp- mountains by the river Vyg, here forty fathoms broad. Direftly in flank of the chain, on the weftern fide of the river, is a piece of moun- tain, feveral fathoms in length and breadth, en. tirely bare of foil, which is a true mafs of that quartzy mountain-rock mixed with talc, amidfl other collateral mixtures of the talc, and in con- junction with that mineral fubcavating the trapp- 1 ftone, which here contains nodules of fpecular iron-ore frequently as thick as one's fift, and here and there interchanged with ferpentine. About feven verfts weft ward from the Voytzer hill, in which interval feveral trapp-ftone ridges rife, whofe natural foflil in many places is re- plete with little cubes of feldfpar, fome rock projects on the higheft fummit of the faid moun- tain, confifting of quartz and talc again between the trapp ; and we eafily defcry in it two parallel veins of quartz, running in a long and ftrait direction from one to two feet thick, which perhaps are not without hope. Thefe trapp- mountains proceed yet farther northward, quite to the White-fea ; where, laftly, the granite projects clofe on the more of the fea, farther to the weft, (efpecially on the bay of Kandalak, and the iflands that appear in it,) attains to confides- able heights, and exhibits a variety of remarkable i 2 phseno- 1-1 6 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY phenomena. For example, vaft rocks of gra- nite, projecting from the great cataraft of the Summa into that river. On an iiland called Kimalima, lying between the mouths of the rivers Shuya and Soroka, off the coaft of the White-fea, we have in the granite veins of mi- caceous earth richly mixed with a beautiful brown frequently glandulous, with granites and green tranfparent fhorl ; and between Kemmi and Keret are very large meets of mufcovy glafs, produced by ignition * from a coarfe-grained gra- nite. Departing from the Voytzer mountain towards the eaft, we perceive nothing but the fandy plain diverfified with morafles, lakes, and rivulets, from which rife confiderable fand-hills mixed with granite, quartz, and pebbles of hornflate, which farther eaftward interchange with layers of chalk and gypfum, in which multi- tudes of petrified marine animals are feen. Leaving again the beforementioned martial waters, and taking a farther range and more to the weftward, from the Onega towards Pertna- volotok and Muun-ozero, the trapp-ftratum proceeds in its fimple (late for the depth of forty feet and more, confifting of a blackifh clay copioufly mingled with delicate particles of iron * Mufcovy glafs by ignition is not allowed by mineralo- gifts in general. and OF THE SOIL. 117 and flat grey fquares of feldfpar, wherein, in this vein, were feveral copper-pits, formerly very yielding, but are now exhaufted, efpecially thofe known under the names of Nadejeda and Niflei- fkoi, together with that called the filver pit, on flrong courfes of quartz and fpar, which were worked for a fpace of fifty years and upwards to a confiderable depth. From thefe pits the mountains tend north-weftward towards the borders of Lapland ; yet their principal veins ftill continue to the north, or rather from the north. Their prevalent fubftance continues to be for the moft part trapp, containing fuper- ficial veins filled with copper-pyrites. Several of a fimilar fpecies are feen at Svetnavolok, where the mountain rifes quite apart from the reft, and fingle. Some of thefe mountains are covered with blocks of quartz of an afto- nifhing magnitude. In many places the trapp is changed for ferpentine, of a pleafant green co- lour, as at Sludina-kupfka, where a beautiful ferpentine, fprinkled with copper-pyrites, fpotted with yellow and black, and capable of a fine polifh, is found in abundance. From Svetnavolok the mountains proceed far- ther to the north, at firft bold, then gently, as far as the parts adjacent to the lake Pell ; thence purfuing their courfe to the lakes Uft 1 3 and Jl8 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY and Tor, and are covered with huge mafles of granite, quartz, and hornftein ; at Ufnokontza, and about the Kuman lake, there rifes a talcky micaceous fchiftus out of the trapp. Thefe moun- tains reach to a confiderable height at Molelka, and again toward the weft refign the higheft place to the granite. From the Kuman lake the trapp-mountains run, with fewer changes, weft- ward about the lake Vyg, to Sondala, and termi- nate in a direction almoft due north, at the vveftern bank of the river Vyg, near the gold mines of Voytz. About Sondola, particularly towards the eaft, the mountains rife to a confiderable elevation, and contain, as their chief mineral iubftance, a ftratum of quartz ioinewhat mixed with clay. However, they only rife fingly, as the foot around is entirely covered with morafles or lakes. In fome are perpendicular veins of quartz, with galena, fome copper-pyrites, black fparry lead- ore, markafite, fulphur-py rites, and ochre. In other of the like clefts appear alfo blue copper- ore, great nodules of copper-pyrites, fpar, and quartz cryftals ; in others again pitch-ore of copper, vitreous copper-ore, cryftallized blue copper, fpecular iron-ore, &c. The Bear iflands in the White-fea confift partly of granite, and partly alfo of trapp. The 6 granite I OF THE SOIL. 119 granite bears a reddifh feldfpar, quartz, and every where but little hornblende. The veins of lead that have been here explored extend, as I am told, in the granite. The ruffian mare of Finland is throughout a mountainous country. Towards the north it contains a number of granite mountains, and enormous blocks of the fame quality. But more to the fouth, and chiefly in the region of the Ladoga lake, are numbers of chalk-ftone, marl, fand, and flate mountains. In fome, fpecimens of copper and lead have been brought out ; iron-ore abounds, not only in the govern- ment of Olonetz, but alfo in thofe of Vyborg and Archangel. In general it appears from what has been faid, that the main ridges, or the greatefl elevations of thefe mountains, come from Sweden; and extend partly from weft to eaft, beyond the northern coafts of the Baltic, and the lakes of Ladoga and Onega, towards and through the White Sea, but partly hold their courfe out of Lapland too, from the north to the fouth. For better diftinclion, (as the name Northern is too general,) we might more properly ftyle thefe the Lapland mountains. From their outward form, it is clearly manifeft that they have under-, gone very violent revolutions ; as they appear, i 4 for I2O CLIMATE, AND QUALITY for the moft part, extremely broken and incom- plete. Their figure is very frequently fharp and prominent ; but their height, on the whole, very moderate; though there are many, efpe- cially in Lapland, that are never entirely diverted of their fnow. The higher, namely the princi- pal mountains of thefe parts, confift of granite, trapp, hornflate, gneifs, and flaky chalkftone, and probably likewife of porphyry and ferpentine- wake. About the Onega and Ladoga lakes, in the fouthern part of Finland, &c. many of the mountains confift merely of thick, not unfre- quently red-fpotted chalkftone. It is a circum- ftance peculiar to thefe parts, that in the mo- rafies, bogs, and low-grounds, they contain an extraordinary quantity of granite blocks, fre- quently of a prodigious fize. It was from this place that the great rock on which the ftatue of Peter I. at St. Peterfburg (lands was fetched. The whole of this mountainous country is un- commonly abundant in water, being as it were overftrewn with lakes, rivers, cataracts, brooks, and marfhes. In the Baltic and the gulf of Finland, in the Ladoga and the Onega lakes, and in the White-fea, an innumerable multitude of iflands appear. The interior mineral qua- lity of all thefe mountains, as appears from what has been faid above, has not hitherto been found to OF THE SOIL. 121 to be remarkably rich, and what gold, filver, copper, and lead courfes have been explored in them, were prefently exhaufted. Iron, alone, they (till contain in great quantities, and this, for which there are works in many places, is, if we except marble, granite, fome window-mica, and a little labrador fpar, fometimes found in the blocks of granite, all that is now got from thefe mountains. Befides feveral rivers, which, like the Neva, moftly take their origin from the lakes here- abouts, not any large river originates from thefe mountains ; though the vaft lakes of Ladoga and Onega, and a multitude of inferior note, are in their neighbourhood. Many of the mountains are bare j but the greater part of them, and particularly the vallies and lowlands, are clothed with forefts. The kinds of trees here are moftly the black pine, the birch, the common fir, and the larch. The forefts in the parts about the Onega lake are of very great extent. The generality of the vallies and lowlands contiguous to thefe moun- tains are of a black bog-mould, others of well- fand, but fome are fertile enough, and decked with fine meadows, where the breeding of cattle is the principal fource of maintenance to the in- habitants. In Lapland, and in fome other northern diftrifts, wood fucceds but badly, and mofl 122 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY moft of the vallies are overgrown with mofs, which is a welcome fodder to the numerous rein-deer of thefe parts. In the northern fitu- ations the vallies are by no means rich in plants ; yet many of the low grounds are amply ftored with berries and a variety of mufhrooms. But, on the other hand, thefe countries abound in wild animals and an inconceivable quantity of both land and water fowl of various denomina- tions. 2. The Valday mountains. Thefe mountains, whofe ridges we travel over in going from Peterfburg to Mofco, are probably but a continuation of the Lapland mountains al- ready defcribed. They were known to the an- tient geographers by the name of Mons Alaunus. At prefent they are indifferently called Vhifokaya Ploftchade, high rifmg ground, or the moun- tains of Valday, from the town and the lake Valday which are fituated on their tops. At no greater diftance than i o verfts from St. Peterfburg, on the Mofco road, we already fee great quantities of mattes of granite ftrewed over the fields around, on which the feldfpar is alrnofl entirely effaced *. The foil is at firft, and as far as 20 verfts, mere moor ground. At Slo- * Vcrnvlttert. venka, OF THE SOIL. 123 venka, 22 verfls from St. Peterfburg, we firft meet with fome clay-hills. Farther on, the ountry again becomes fwampy and fandy ; but at the fame time flrewn with vaft numbers of blocks of granite, fome of them enormoufly large. Among thefe mafies are alfo large blocks, with radiated and lamellated fchorl. Till we get upwards of 100 verfls from the refidence, the country is every where low, and we travel through almoft one continued foreft ; but now it becomes fomewhat higher, and the foil more clayey. We likewife come to feveral villages. Large granite rocks are here particularly nume- rous. Having again pafled feveral great moralfes, we reach Novgorod, in a country thronged with hills of marl, fand, and clay. The well-fand, whereof a great part of the way already pad con- fifts, is in many places of a reddifh hue, and every where mixed with many granite, quartz, and chalkftones. To the right of the great high road, and fouthward from Novgorod, lies the Ilmen lake, in the parts adjacent to which are many chalkftone-beds, with bridges over them, petrifactions, and falt-fprings. The laft-men- tioned are at Mmaga, Saltzveckfha, Ouglenka, and Staraia-RuiTa. On leaving the laft of thefe towns, we have the Scliger lake and the fources of the Volga in the fcuth-eaft:. We crofs the river J24 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY river Lovat, and proceed along the Pola, as far as the mouth of the impetuous river Ivan. Here, about the Ilmen lake, and in nearly the fhape of a crefcent, arife the Flotz hills, which gradually, on the Shelon beyond Saltzi, on the Lovat, about 20 verfts below Cholm, on the Mfta at Belfkoi- voloft, and on the Sises at Tichvin, increafe to a very eminent mountain-ridge. Below the mouth of the Ivan or Javan, along which the ftoney ftra- mm, as about the fourcesof the Sises, is the higheft and the fteepeft, flows the Pola for feveral verfts ever a bed of marl and fand flate. At this place there is a great deal of potter's clay, of which all kinds of earthen veflels for common ufes are made. Following the Mofco road from Novgorod, acrofs the mountains, to the diflance of 30 verfts farther, we have a hilly ground, partly of fand and partly of clay, to pafs over, on which the blocks of granite, quartz, and fand ftone are very numerous, and of confiderable bulk. About Novgorod the earth is in fome places fo loamy and heavy, that great clods of it lie upon the fields, and prevent the coming up of the feed. Near Bronitza, a fpacious village on the Mfta, lie a great many granite ftones, fome whereof are extremely large ; efpecially thofe that one fees on a pretty high hill, on which there ftands a church. The OF THE SOIL. 125 The largeft lie moftly on the north declivity of the hill. On a particular fpot, upon the more of the Mfta, there is a bed of quartz-fand at lead three arfhines in depth, under which runs a layer of clay. Hence to Bolotnitza the ground is ftill much more hilly, and the granite blocks more numerous. Among thefe there are alfo many pieces of jafper, trapp, and quartz. From this village to the town of Valday is a diftance of 44 verfts. Nothing is feen here but great hills covered with fand, and frequent mafles of granite. On thefe hills, where, however, we never once faw the naked granite pufhing up- wards, the granites are of a variety quite peculiar. They are found from the finefl grain, up to blocks of very large dimenfions, and of red, grey, bluifh and blackifh colours. Sometimes the quartz, then the feldfpar, one while the horn-blende, at another mica, and at another a fine needle-fhaped fchorl, has the afcendant. Together with the granite there is alfo found much quartz, fome por- phyry and jafper, and pieces of fchneideftein, or fteatites. Of the latter fort Mr. Hermann found, among others at the village Votfkoy, about 324 verfts from Peterfburg, a large block (not round- ed off) of upwards of 100 pood in weight, hav- ing many within-lying brown fpiculas of fchorl and fmall tranfparent red-brown granites. The country 126 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY country about Valday, being the higheft point of the mountain, is extremely pleafant. Fine, flow- rifmg hills, a charming pellucid lake, with an ifland on which (lands a noble monaflery, de- lightful groves, an extenfjve fcenery, forming the moft inviting variety. One fcarcely thinks him- felf on the mountain, and is aimed inclined to take this region for a kind of plateaux, fo gently do the mountains raife their heads. At a few verfts from Valday the road begins to decline very faft. The granite blocks on the mountains covered with fand and clay, are ftill in great numbers, but by far not fo large as on the oppofite fide. There even already appear a good many petrifactions in chalk and flints. The latter are frequently of the jafper kind. Towards Vifhnei Volotfhok the road goes again over little hills, fvvampy and well-fandy ground. On many plots, and even till within 20 verfts of Viflinei Volotihok, there is a multitude, and fome of them very large blocks of granite. Several of the wellfand hills contain lumps of granite, quartz, fandflone, limeftone, and flints, all together, in great numbers. It is remarkable, that we here meet with many blocks of fand- ftone, while they are very rarely to be feen on the north- weft fide of the mountain. Between Vilhnei Volotikok, and efpecially in the diftrict of OF THE SOIL. 127 of NicoKkoi monaftir, the country is plentifully flrewn with petrifactions in fireftone and chalk- ftone. Among them are found echinite-ftalk* that are transformed into carnelian. Between Torfhok and Tver the country is flat, and the quality of the foil much like that above defcribed. They ufe here for buildings a fort of white marly (lone, which contains great quanti- ties of broken (hells, and folitary ammonites pe- trified into chalkftone. On the other fide Tver the fireftones are far lefs common on the furface. About Klin we find again feveral clay-hills, in which flick large blocks of granite and fand- ilone ; alfo fireilone, with and without petrifac- tions, and pebbles of chalcedony. From Klin to Mofco the foil is very clayey, but always mixed with fome blocks of granite. The region about Mofco offers great abundance of beautiful petri- factions, and efpecially of pyritical ammonitae into pyrites, prettily embellimed with mica of a metallic luftre. Along the Vachufa, by the Volga, we fee myriads of pebbles of all forts of colours ; and farther on, in the diftricl between Mofco, Kaluga, Smolen(k, &c. much chalkftone inclofing great quantities of (hells of various fpecies. The higheft point of this ridge of mountains is, therefore, Valday. It (hapes its courfe hither from the north, and appears to take its depar- ture 128 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY ture from between the lakes Ladoga and Onega. It then flretches acrofs the Mfta, runs between the Ilmen lake and the Seliger, and extends its foot as far as into the governments of Smolensk, Orel, and Novgorod-Severfki. About its weft- ern, fouthern, and eaflern declivities, are feveral ftrong ftrata of chalk and marl, which farther on are loft in marfhy and fandy plains. Some naturalifts are of opinion that the whole of this Valday chain of mountains is the effect of violent inundations, and that it entirely confifts of a chalkftone arifen from crumbled and de- ftroyed marine productions. Highly poflible as this conjecture is, it may be no lefs likely that the middle part is a primitive mountain, having granite for its principal ftratum, which, through length of time, and perhaps even under water, is fo much decayed as to be in a manner fmooth- ed ; for, as far as I know, no chalkpit has yet been opened on its fummit ; and how much fo- ever fome blocks of granite on thefe mountains are rounded off, yet we fee a great many that are fo but in a fmall degree. But even if all thefe mafles were rounded, it would ftill be no proof that they were all brought hither by the flood. Of thofe by Bronitza in particular, this would be extremely difficult to believe. I there- fore take all thefe elevations, till fome very folid OF THE SOIL. 129 folid reafons (hall convince me to the contrary, to be an original mountain decayed and deftroyed in its furface, on which, round about its declivi- ties, the loofe chalk and marl was floated or de- pofited. Notwithftanding fo much is to be faid con- cerning the" mineral quality of thefe mountains, no mine has as yet been explored among them. Some fpecimens indeed, it is faid, have been brought up of copper and lead ; but the attempt has been profecuted no farther. There is plenty of iron j efpecially at Poterpeiitz, where it feems that a bed of pyrites by accident taking fire, it left large pits, and deep cavities in the earth, \vhich afterwards filled with water, and are now little lakes abounding in fifh. The heat of the fire, however, muft needs have been very vio- lent, as the martial parts of the pyrites were per- fectly in fufion, and flowed together into iron- ftone, partly porous, partly folid, without having left behind any ejections, or other figns of this tremendous phenomenon, a burning mountain. It is more certain that the bottom of all the lakes is of this confluent ironftone. The beds on the Mfta contain a great quantity of fulphur- pyrites, vitriolic earth, alum, coals, iron-ore, petrifactions, &c. The pyrites are found, of every known figure, and of excellent luftre. A VOL. i. K bed t$Q CLIMATE, AND QUALITY bed of coal ftretches principally about Borovitfk; and falt-fources, chalk-pits, and gypfum, are found in Stara-Rufla. The extreme elevation of the Valday moun- tains is but very moderate ; as the higheft point is fcarcely 200 fathoms above the level of St. Pe- terfburg. Upon them are not only the Valday- lakes, but alfo fome others of inferior note ; and at its weftern foot, is the great lake Ilmen, at the fouthern, the Seliger, &c. Of the rivers, fome take their origin from the mountains, others from the lakes that lie at their foot : the Volga, the Duna, the Volkhof, the Lovat, the Pola, the Tlhagedo, the Kolp, the Dniepr, the Don, the Oka, &c. Thefe mountains are but fparingly clothed with forefts, but fo much the more with beauti- ful meadows and fields ; hence the grazier's trade is here carried on with confiderable profit. The fpecies of wood are, the feveral forts of pines and firs, the birch, the linden, the afpin, the alder, &c. The foil in the vallies moftly confifts, of clay and marl, and is in general fertile. 3. The mountains of Taurida. The peninfula of Krim, from the neck of land where the fortrefs of Perekop (lands, is all a flat, which gradually becomes higher, till at lafl it rifes into OF THE SOIL; 131 into lofty mountains, which form the fouthern fide of it, and the more of the Euxine fea. The range of mountains extends fromTheodofia in a flraight line weftwards, quite up to Balbek. At Karaf- ubafar two towering pinnacles moot up, and at Akmetchet a very lofty one, which is called Ak- tau. The fmaller mountains ftand diftincl: and fcattered. It is extremely probable, that this range is partly a continuation of the caucafian, and partly of the Carpathian mountains ; and that thefe two principal chains are connected by it ; which alfo feems apparent from the nature and quality of the mountains oppofite to thofe of Taurida, which extend beyond the Danube, through Bulgaria, and are called Pulkanian* The component parts of the mountains of Taurida are as yet but little known. Thus much is certain, that the greater part confifts of chalk- mafles with petrifactions, and many beds of fand and marl, and chalk-hills with flints. It is there- fore to be prefumed, that in general they are not to be clafled with the original, but only with the alluvial or depofited mountains. A part of them are thought to owe their origin even to the fubterranean fires. However this be, it is faid that lead, copper, and iron ores are found in them, as well as jafper, agate, and mountain cryftal. In limeftone, marble, ftate, fandftone, K 2 coals, i$2 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY coals, naphtha, and common fak, they are very rich. The ifte Taman confifts merely of beds of fand and marl, without limeftone. Their height, in comparifon with other chief mountains, is but moderate. They are in a great meafure deftitute of forefts. The trees that grow upon them are thofe of the richeft foliage, fuch as oaks, beech, chefnuts, &c. However what they are deficient in wood, is amply made up for by the rich and beautiful herbs of the vallies. The rivers that take their rife from the moun- tains of Taurida are, the Alma, the Katlha, the Kabarda, the Salgyr, the Karaffu, and a great number of little ftreams that in many places form very pleafing natural cafcades. 4. The Caucaflan mountains. The caucafian mountains, as far as they have hitherto been explored on the ruflian fide, are truly an alpine range, extending, between the Euxine and the Cafpian, from weft to eaft, in length about 350 englifh miles, and towards the north and fouth in a level country all aroundr They greatly decline as they approach both the feas. The whole range has a traft of about five miles in breadth, where the chain is at its greatefl height, which is covered with eternal ice. Its breadth OF THE SOIL. 133 breadth on the northern declivity extends at mod to 50 miles, and runs along on the prodigious northern plain, which, taken in the quadra- ture, meafures 1000 englifh miles, being bounded on the eaft by the fiberian, and on the weft by the valakhian mountains. The icy ridges, as well as the ethers, at their higheft points, confift moflly of granite, the fides leaning towards the next mountains of all kinds of flate, and the outward fides of limeftone, &c. This limeftone mountain runs in a flat clayey field of 20 miles in breadth, gradually declining, till it ends in a promontory 10 miles broad, which con- fifts almoft entirely of fandflone ; and this again runs out afrefh in a clayey plain about 8 miles broad, in which likewife numerous fandftone-hills arife. In this plain common fait and natron are met with in great abundance. In the promontory are ironftone, fulphur-pyrites, vitriol, petroleum, and warm baths not unfrequent ; petrifactions are Jikewife found here, though not in great num- bers, moflly in flint. Specimens of lead and copper are rarely feen in the promontory, but in the higher mountains frequently. The flate con- tains alum. A piece of this caucafian ridge is faid to have no waving mountains at its northern termination. As to what regards the quality of its fuperior regions, it is to be remarked, that the fiver Hippus in Iberia bears gold, the mountains K 3 W 134 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY in that region are faid to be very rich in mine- rals, and that the gold mines at Cumana were already worked by the Romans ; that the moun- tains on the Kura, and efpecially in the diftrift of Azghur likewife contain very rich ores j that in the plains of that river are found fine marble, coal, and warm fprings ; in the mountains by the Terek, as far as the village Stephantzminda, there is lead, filver, and iron ore; in the georgian province Somghetia, rich filver and iron ore, marble, and jafper ; in the circle of Quoetfh cop- per-ore ; in the principality of Tamblut rich lead, filver, and gold mines ; in the principality of Lori confiderable copper-mines, good millftones ; in the principality of Unfular rich copper-mines ; in the parts about Akdale, gold, filver, and copper j and in the province of Albania, marble and ala- bafter, iron, warm baths, petroleum, and rock fait. Hence it appears, that the caucafian chain of mountains is a main courfe, in its highefl points covered with ice-mounts ; that it has its higheft, high, middle, and fore-mountains, or promonto- ries, the rifings neareft to the level of the plain ; that its fides are very rich in minerals, and pro- bably, in thofe parts which are now added to the ruffian empire, contain a treafure of the precious metals. Its eminence, on the whole, is confider- able, and many of the rocky parts very fleep and prominent. In many of its extremely fertile vales OF THE SOIL. 135 vales it is furnifhed with charming woods, con- fifling of excellent foreft-trees of various kinds. On the ruffian fide of thefe mountains, the rivers Terek, Kuban, Kumma, and a number of fmaller ftreams, take their rife. For rendering this account as complete as poflible, I will here fubjoin a few particulars from what Guldenftedt fays of Caucafus. " The " main mountain," fays he, " or rather the high " ridge of the main mountain, from which the " whole on both fides declines and finks towards " the feas, confifts moftly of fnow or ice mounts " of a truly alpine height, which, by reafon of " their local elevation, particularly in fome open " fifiures, contain everlafting fnow and ice, gene- " rally exhibit bald rock, without any covering " of earth or plants and trees, and in fome parts " pierce into the clouds. This, which may pro- " perly be called an alpine chain, feems to me " not more than 5 to 7 verfts in breadth, and " confifts of a granitic ftratum. The two " fides of the high alpine ridge, which form the " main mountain, I take to be, from fouth to " north, or right acrofs, meafured in feveral " places, on an average, 70 verfts. They ftand " immediately in the main ridge ; and the north " fide is vifibly fteeper or higher than the * fouthern, as it declines in a far narrower or K 4 fmaller 136 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY " fmaller breadth, or rather only finks down to- " wards one part. The higheft ridges of " Caucafus confift of granite ; clofe to which, " both on the northern and fouthern fides, are " mountains of flate, and farther on, chalk- " hills, which terminate in fand-hills. In the *' latter are found fulphur, fulphur-pyrites, " warm fulphureous fprings, petroleum, rock- " fait fources, nitrous falts, bitter falts, mag- " nefia vitriolata, alum, felenite, &c. The " northern promontory flattens partly at the " Kuban, and partly over it, and at and acrofs " the Terek, northwards, in the vaft, arid, " clayey, fandy, fait, woodlefs fteppe, which " towards the Manytfh is called the kuban, and " towards the Kumma the kummanian fteppe, " and occupies the fpace between the inferior " Don and the inferior Volga. In the north- " ern track of flate, appears cerufe of lead, which " contain filver, and copper pyrites in flaty ftrata, " in courfes of quartz and fpar, in various veins, " particularly four in the province of Kifteri in " the diftricT; of Galgai, on the river Aifai, be- * c tween the villages Ofai and Cheirechi. Courfes " of bleyglantz are feen alfo above, on the Te- the Amoor, the Argoon, &c. 10. The mountains ofOkhot/Z. This great chain, known under the name of Stanovoi-Krebet, borders upon the Nertfhinfkoi, or upon the Yablonoi-Krebet, near the region of the fources of the Aldan and Oldekon, runs thence on one fide northward on the- Lena down to Yakutfk, and on the other fide weftward to the oudinlkoi gulf of the okhotfkoi fea, which fwarms with iflands j proceeds round this to the upper Okhotlk, and flrikes out feve- ral branches in the parts between the Lena and the Indighirka, between this and the Kolyma, and between this and the Anadyr, where a part of the mountain runs out upon the tfhufkoi promontory, while the other continues its courfe into the peninfula of Kamtfhatka. All OF THE SOIL. i;j All thefe extenfive mountainous regions are kimofl entirely unknown *. From the diftricl of * To this partition-range ( i ), fays M.Pallas, between the fources of the Vitim and the Nertfha, that mountain- ridge which runs between the bargufmian territory and the Kilok, as alfo the Yeravna-lake, ftretches acrofs the fourcc of the Vitim, of a great height, and much covered with forefts, and is rich in all kinds of pyrites, pofTefles feveral warm baths, and runs away under the name of Stanovoi- Krebet, in an eaftern direction, over the fource of th Nertma and the other ftreams of the Shilka or Amoor, parting thefe and all the waters of the Amoor from the brooks of the Olekma; It fhotits out i ftrong ridge on ths Olekma, which proceeds north-weftward obliquely acrofs the Lena above Yakutfk, abruptly turns with one part on the mores of the eafttrn ocean, and proceeds with another branch over the fources of the rivers Ouda, Aldan, Mala, and Yudoma, near upon the okhotfkian fea, and difperfes '.tfelf about the eaftern entirely mountainous corner of Afia, in ribs that run between the principal rivers. In this eaftern. moft part of Siberia, the mountain is indeed extremely ragged and dreary, even the elevation of the country around is very considerable ; but the granite mountain feems there to decreafe, and we know of no exceedingly high fnovf - tummits, though the whole region is cold and rude, pro- ducing nothing but ar&ic and alpine plants even in the plains, and even in fummer faft frozen marfhes and vales, as in the ar&ic deferts, are no rarities there. About the Biela and Yudoma, in like manner as about the Ourak, this mountain has again an inconceivable quantity of red (i) The Ytblonoi-Krebet, and 174 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY of Okhotfk has been brought jafper, porphyry, and beautiful chalcedonies and carneoles, fulphur- pyrites, native alum, agaricus aluminaris, moun- tain cryflal, coals, &c. and there likewife are warm fprings. The mountain is for the moft part not very abundant in woods. Its principal rivers on the ruffian or northern fide, are : the Amga, the Aldan, the Uda, the Maia, the Yana, the Indighirka, the Kolyma, and the Anadyr. ii. The mountains of Kamtfhatka and the Eajlern I/lands. The peninfula Kamtfhatka confifts of a rocky chain of mountains, which is bounded on the firm land by the penfhinfkian and anadyrfkian gulfs, and by the river Anadyr. On the fouthern promontory the Kurilly iflands are in- cluded in it, and towards the weft it is con- nected with North America by the Aleutan iflands. Either concerning the outward or in- ward mineralogical qualities of thefe infular and green jafper, of which whole chains are compofed ; whereas on the whole fide of the fiberian mountains, this fpecies of fubftance, except perhaps here and there on th fouth-fide of the Yablonoi-Krebet, in Dauria, is no where to be perceived. mountains^ OP THE SOIL. 175 mountains, we have but very little information* : we only know that there are fome volcanoes in Kamtlhatka. The mod confiderable dream on this peninfula is the river Kamtfhatka. * Kamtfhatka is a chain of mountains, contiguous to the eaftern end of this main ridge ( i ), forming one train with the vhole fuite with the very mountainous and rocky iflands of Kurilly and Japan, which feem again to connect with the mountains which reach from Tybet through China. All thefe countries and iflands feem to have arifen, by fubterra- neous fires which ftill continue to a&, much more lately than Siberia. The eaftern extremity of Afia, as \ve know from the oppofite north-weft territory of America, is hilly throughout, and the fiiores for the moft part broken off". All the newly-difcovered iflands betwixt thefe two quarters of the world are fragments and fummits of mountains, of which thofe lying neareft to Kamtfhatka, keep the bearing' towards the fouth-eaft, while thofe off the coaft of America proceed in the chain of the Fox-iflands towards the nortli- eaft, and even in thefe directions have their oblong form. Between the eaftern extremity of Tfhutfkoi-nofs, and the xreftern point of North America, lie difperfed other little itiands, under the name of Andreanoffkie-oftrova, but rou.- cerm'ng which we have no diftindl accounts. Pallas. <} The Stanovoi.Krrbet. tj6 CLIMATE, AND QUALITY Of the principal Plains of RuJJla. Great and numerous as the mountainous tracts of the ruffian empire are, yet the far greater part of it confifts of plains and flats, whereof fome are extraordinarily extenfive. They are known here under the name of Steppes. I will briefly delineate the chief of them. i. The Steppe of Petjhora. This plain is bounded on the north by the Frozen ocean and the White-fea ; to the weft by the Dvina ; to the eaft by the Petihora ; and to the fouth by the Floetz mountains, which, from the uralian chain flretch away weftward acrofs the government of Vologda. It therefore properly lies between and on both fides of thefe rivers. The ground is for the moft part fandy, very marfhy, thick ftrewn with forefts, and almoft entirely uninhabited ; the diftri&s about Archangel, Mefen, &c. excepted. The trees confift principally in the pinus fylveftris, firs and birch, and on the elevations beautiful larches. This however is only to be underftood of the fouthern part ; in the northern, by reafon of the extreme cold, wood fucceeds but badly. On this level are a great number of frefh, but not OF TH SOIL. 177 Hot very large lakes ; and, befides the rivers already mentioned, many others are to be met with, efpecially if we confider as a continuation of this great level, that plain which extends weftward through the governments of Novgo- rod, Peterfburg, &c. 2. The Steppe of the Dniepr. This comprehends the great plain which lies in the government of Ekatarinoflaf, between the Dniepr and the Bogue ; the krimean fteppe on the left fide of the Dniepr, and the whole fpace which extends over the Donetz, away to the Don, and the fea of Azof, and to the Euxine. This monftrous plain which takes in the greateft part of the governments of Ekata- rinoflaf, Taurida, and a part of Voronetz, Kark- hof and Kief, is in general of a very dry and iandy quality, with many falt-lakes and falt- plots, and is as yet but very little inhabited; here and there indeed is a wood with oaks and other foreft-trees, but for the moft part bare of timber, yet for the ufes of paflurage and agriculture it is not only not unfit, but in many diftricls is perfectly well adapted to them. VOL, i. N l^S CLIMATE, AND QtTALITY 3. The Steppe of the Don and Volga. This comprifes the whole fpace between the Don, the Volga, and the Kuban *. It is a very great, extremely arid fteppe, entirely deftitute of Wood and Watef, has but few inhabitants, and contains feveral falt-lakes, and falt-plots f. It fpreads through the greater part of the govern- ment of Caucafus and into thofe of Ekatarinoflaf and Saratof, where, in its fandy and calcaginous flcetz-mounts J, it contains coals, fulphur-py rites-, and vrarm-baths. * Within thefe confines lies what is called the Kuman- fteppe, which comprehends the whole fpace from thence to where the Kuma flows out of the fnountains, and reaches fouthward to the banks of the Terek and the Cafpian fea ; northward to the other fide of the Sarpa, and eaftward as far as the Volga. In this fteppe lie the falt-lakes of Aftrak- han, fome bitter lakes, warm fources, &c. The whole kumanian fteppe, fays Falk, has all the appearance of a dried-up fea. It is a fandy, part clayey and fait plain, with- out trees. But that it may have really been fea-bottom, u highly probable, from the flat mores of the Cafpian and the fea of Azof, from the fhallownefs of their coails, which is tfonftantly gaining ground ; from the equally low fituation uf the fteppe, in which the Kuma, the Manitfh, &c. have' fcarcely any current, not to mention the general faltnefs that prevails, and the falt-places ; from the faline lakes, and from the quantity of fea-mells in the fand of the fteppe to be feen in every part of it, and from feveral other circum- ftances. t Soloatftii. \ Veiny or mineral-mountains. 4- The OF THE SOIL. J79 4. The Steppe of the Volga and Ural. This extenfive plain comprehends, between the rivers Volga and Ural, all that fiat country which formerly went under the name of the Kalmyk-fleppe ; and, between the Ural and the Yemba, a part of the kirghiftzi fteppe lying within the ruffian borders *. To the fouth it makes the margin of the Cafpian fea, and to the north it (kirts the floetz-mountains that run out from the Ural-chain. This, for the moft part, fandy, plain is greatly deficient in frefh water and wood ; but is therefore the richer in rock-falts, and a multitude of falt-lakes that are * It is termed the Kalmyk-fteppe, because it was left in pofleflion of a horde of that nation, and by whom it was in- habited till their flight in 1771. The Kalmyks call it Gahfen ( i ). Its weftern part is denominated from the Volga, the fouthern from the Cafpian, arid the eaftern from the Ural. It confifts of a far-ftretchitig ridge of fand-mountains^ known under the name of Rynpefki, but for the moft part of a prodigious fandy plain. The aforefaid fand-ridge (2), is faidto be between 50 and 150 verlts in breadth, according to admeafurements in feveral places, and extends from Obfhtfhei-Syrtj or the Ural-mountain, through the middle of the fteppe, quite to the Cafpian fea. The ground confifts of fend, marl, and clay, frequently mixed with fea-mells, and every where bears the moft evident marks of its having been formerly, as well as the kumane fteppe, bottom of the fea. CO The Defcrt. (*) Called by the Kalmyks, Narym. N 2 very iSo CLIMATE, AND QUALITY very produ&ive. It contains a great number of diftrids well adapted to the purpofes of agricul- ture and the breeding of cattle, but is very poorly inhabited. One part of it lies in the caucafian, and the other in the oufimlkian go- vernment. 5. The Steppe of the Irti/h. Under this name I mean that great plain tvhich extends between the Tobol and the Irtifh, and between thofe along the Alay and the Oby, as far as the influx of the Irtifh into the Oby, comprifmg an enormous territory. It is as it were over-ftrewn with lakes of feveral kinds of falts, interfperfed among numerous fo- refts of pines and firs and birch, in mod places well calculated for pafturage and agriculture, but in proportion to their extent very thinly peopled. Between the Irtifh and the Oby this plain inclofes alfo that fine well-watered level called the Barabinian-fteppe, on which many confiderable lakes are feen. The greatefl part of this whole fteppe lies in the government of Tobolfk, but the other part in that of Kol- hyvan *. 6. The * Another part of this large plain, between the Ifchim aad the Irtifh, is called the ifchim-fteppe, which particularly abounds OF THE SOIL. l8l 6. The Steppe of the Oby and Teni/ey. This includes the whole of that large tral beyond the Tfhulim (which falls into the Oby) between the Oby and the Yenifiey, and extends to the fhores of the Frozen-ocean. The beft forefts, however, are only found in the prox imity of the mountain towards the fouth. On the northern molt margin of the Frozen ocean all the wood is low and ftunted. The whole of this fteppe lies in the government of Tobollk. abounds in bitter lakes, but in all other refpe&s refembks the barabinian fteppe, and in which, as well as in the former, a great many antient tombs are met with. The barabi- nian or barabinflcoi fteppe, and diminutively the Baraba, oc- cupies the fpace between the Irtyfh. and the Oby, fouthward of the mountain, northward to the farther fide of the Tara, and beyond the river Tuy. This diffufive region, in length from north to fouth, exceeding 600 verfts, and full 400 in breadth from weft to eaft, is all a flat, fcarcely interrupted by a fmgle hill, though containing many frefh- water lakes, with fome of bitter, and a few of common fait. Tim plain is for the moft part of a good black foil, having the face of it enlivened by a number of pleafant forefts of birch. All ferving to (hew, fays Mr. Falk, that the Baraba muft have been one general bed of waters, and fince far more moraffy and replete with lakes than it is at prefent. Even in the memory of man, according to the affirmation of the Bara- binz.es, tke diminution of the lakes, and the exficcation of the pools, reed-plots, ai.d marches, has been very obfervabk, as well as the acquisitions thus made by the firm land. N 3 7. The 1 8? CLIMATE, AND QUALITY, &C, 7. The Steppe of the Tentfey and Lena. This great tract of defert is bounded by the Yenifley ; the Tungufka, and the Lena j reaches northward, like the former, to the Frozen- ocean, and partakes of the fame nature and quality with it. One part lies in the go- vernment of Tobollk, and the reft in that of Irkutlk. 8. The Steppe of the Lena and Indighirka. The fame account may ferve for the region, little known, which lies a vaft extended plain along the mores of the Frozen-ocean, be- tween the Lena and the Kolyma, to the two fides of the Indighirka, and is wholly in the go- vernment of Irkuifk. SECTION III. WATERS. Of the Seas forming the Boundaries of the Ruffian Empire. i. The Frozen or the Northern ocean. THE Ruflians called this fea, in antient times, More Murerr^nfkoe, but at prefent Lcdovitoe more. I5> the Goths it was termed Gandawyk, by OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 183 by the Cimbrians Mare Marufa, and by the Latins, Mare Sarmaticum, and Mare Scythicum. The Swedes call it Is-Hafoet, and the Norwe- gians Leberfee. It borders the whole of the northern part of the empire, from the confines of Lapland to the Tfchukotfkoy-Nofs ; that is, from 50 to 205 deg. of longitude, and confe- quently laves the mores of the governments of Archangel, Tobolfk, and Irkutfk. Several bays of very confiderable expanfe are formed by this vaft ocean. The greateft is the bay in the vicinity of Archangel, which commonly goes under the name of the WHITE-SEA, extending from north to fouth within the land, from 69 to 63 degrees of north lat. and contains a multi- tude of petty iflands. Next follows the Tchefkaia guba, the karian bay, called alfo the karian fea, Karfkoe more ; then the Obfkoe bay, which is uncommonly fpacious ; the Tay- murikaia guba, or bay ; the Khatanglkaia guba ; two bays at the mouth of the Lena ; and, laftly, the Tfliaunikaia guba, at 185 deg. longit. Of the numerous iflands in this ocean the mod con- ftderable are : Novaya Zemlia and Kalgueva ; but both of them are uninhabited and only fre- quented by fifhermen and hunters. Novaya Zemlia is indeed well fupplied with waters, but is rocky, unfruitful, and deftitute of wood ; N 4 fcarcely 184 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. fcarcely are a few flunted bufhes and polai- plants to be met with there. But, on the other hand, this ifland abounds in rein-deer, white bears, white and blue foxes, and the fliores fwarm with morfhes or fea-cows, &c. Its mag- nitude is eftimated at 120 verfts in breadth, and 6000 verfts in circumference. On the northern fide it is entirely encompafled with ice-moun- tains. Among the lakes there is one of fait water. From the middle of October till Fe- bruary the fun is not vifible at all; but they have numerous and flrong north-lights. In fummer there are no thunder-florms. The fnow falls in many places to the depth of four arfhines. For two months, namely June and July, the fun never fets. Between this ifland and the main land is the famous pafiage known by the name of Weigat's ftraits. Though this fea contains fo many bays, not lefs nume- rous are the capes or points of land that ftrike out into it j thefe fpits of land are called in rufs Muifs or Nofs ; for ex. Muifs-Matfol, Severo- Sapadnoi-Muifs, Severo-Voftotfchnoi-Muifs, (or Taymurfkoi,) Muifs-Svetoi-Preobrajenia, Svetoi- Muifs, Shalatfkoi-Muifs, and Tfchukotfkoy-Nofs. In all this great fea there are but three har- bours whence at this time any navigation is purfued, namely, Kola, Archangel, and Mefen, whereof OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 185 whereof that of Archangel is the moft famous. But that navigation, in comparifon of the pro- digious expanfe of this fea, is very trifling; however it is partly owing to the fhort portion of the year allowed by the ice for this purpofe ; and in fome regions there is fcarcely time for undertaking it all. As for the northern paflage to China, which, as every one knows, has been fo often attempted, nothing has hitherto been discovered favourable to any hopes from future enterprifes. The mores in many places, efpe- cially thofe of the White-fea, are befet with rocks ; in other parts low, with fhoals that, in a manner, forbid accefs, and the country adjacent very marmy. The water in this fea is pro- portionably but little fait, though near Archangel it is fo briny, that fome quantities of common fait are prepared from it. The ebb and flow are moderate, and in the parts lying moll to the north fcarcely perceptible. The fifliery is very confiderable, particularly of ftock-fim, herrings, whales, morlhes*, porpoifes, fea-dogs, &c. 2. The Eaftern or the Pacific ocean. This ocean waflies the mores of the govern- ment of Irkutfk, from Tfchukotfkoy-Nofs, OP * Hippopotamus Cock's l86 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVIRS, &C. Cook's ftraits, to the frontiers of China, in other words, from the mouth of the river Aima- kan, that is, from about 65 to 55 deg. n. lat. This ocean is divided into two great parts. That lying eaftwards from Kamtmatka, between Sibe- ria and America, is eminently ftyled the Eaftern, or the Pacific ocean : that an the weft fide from Kamtmatka, between Siberia, the chinefe Mongoley, and the Kurilly iflands, is called the fea of Okhotfk. Thus, from the different places it touches, it bears different denomina- tions : for inftance, from the place where the river Anadyr falls into it, it is called the fea of Anadyr ; about Kamtmatka, it is called the fea of Kamtmatka ; and the bay between the diflrids of Okhotik and Kamtmatka is called the fea of Okhotfk, the upper part of which is termed Penjinfkoye more, that is, the Penjinfkian fea, as it approaches the mouth of the river Penjina. In this ocean are a multitude of iflands, and the peninfula of Kamtmatka j which, as in their proper place, I mail here enumerate. i. The peninfula of KAMTSHATKA. It was firft discovered by the Ruffians in 1696, but not made totally tributary till 1711. Kamtmatka lies between the 5ift and 62d deg. of n. lat. and between the i7jd and the i82d deg. of longitude. Its boundary towards the eaft and fouth is formed by the Eaftern ocean j toward? the OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. I $7 the weft by the fea of Okhotfk, and towards the north by the country of the Koriaki. The country is full of mountains, among which are fome volcanoes, whereof one is not far from Nifhnei Kamtmatfkoi oftrog, and another at a fmall diftance from Verchnei Kamtfhatfkoi of- trog. The former is the biggeft. In the year 1762, it firft announced its approaching erup- tion, by a fubterraneous noife, and foon after began to fpout with flames on different fides. To this bur ft of fire immediately fucceeded a large ftream of melted fnow, flowing down to the neighbouring valley with fuch rapidity that it carried away two Kamtmadales who were out in queft of game. The ames and other fub- flances thrown up were fcattered round about to the diftance of three hundred verfts. In the year 1767 another eruption happened, but by no means fo violent. On that evening ftreaks of fire were remarked to iflue from the moun- tain. The irruption that happened immediately after caufed confiderable damage to the inhabit- ants. Since that time no flames have been ob- ferved to proceed from it ; but both the moun- tains fmoke continually. Near the village MS- kova a merchant of Irkutsk in 1760 difcovered iron-ore, and erefted fmelting-houfes on thi fpot. Silver-ore, though cot very rich, is alfo /S8 OCEANS, SIA5, LAKS, RIVERS, &C. hid to have been found in Kamtfhatka. More- over, the country, in fome places,bears birch-trees, poplars, aiders, willows, fhrubs, and wild fruits of various kinds ; white cabbage, turnips, fmall nrdiihes, red and yeliow turnips, cucumbers, &c. In the arts of agriculture they have made no great progrefs; not that they have been wanting in attempts on their part, for even pre- vious to the year 1765 feveral improvements were vifible in their practice. The corn, from its early maturity, is almoft always damaged- Perceiving that the inhabitants were not averfe to the labours of hufbandry, the late com- mandant of Kamtfhatka, major von Behm, ex- erted himfelf greatly in bringing agriculture and grazing into repute, by encouragements of va- rious kinds, and he had the fatisfa&ion to fee that his generous pains were not beftowed in vain. His worthy fuccefTor too, Mr. aflefibr Reinikin, continued thefe laudable endeavours, with fuch good effeds, that in 1782, from 68 pood and a half of winter-rye, 3416 fhtaves, and from 594 pood of barley, 24,840 {heaves, were reaped. Oats, wheat and buck-wheat, are much fpoiled in general by the early frofts ; but hemp fucceeds very well. With agriculture, the breed of european domeftic animals has Jike\vife been introduced j and even with pota- toes OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &.C. toes a very fuccefsful beginning has been made. 2. BERING'S ISLAND. This ifland, which was difcovered in 1740, lies in n. 1st. from 55 .to 56. It is 165 verfts in length, and of various breadths ; the greateft breadth however is 23 verfts. This ifland confifts of a range of bald cliffs and hills in contineity with each other, which, being only divided by a great number of vallies, lying north and fouth, feem to rife from the fea like one fmgle rock. The highefl of thefe mountains, however, are, perpendicularly, not above a thoufand fathoms in height, are covered with a yellow clay, .and are very much riven by ftorms and weather. The vallies are extremely narrow. All the mountains confifl of granite, except the rows that ftand nearefl the fea, which commonly are of fandftone, and, not unfrequently, form flony walls exceed- ingly fteep. In thefe mountains there are like- wife many caverns *. In the year 1741, three pretty fmart mocks of earthquakes were per- ceived. The fea hereabouts is not covered with ice. The cold is in general moderate ; notwith- ftanding which there are mountains whereon the fnow never diifolves. Neither thunder * Hence it fhouM appear tHat there may be chalk mountains. nor 1Q& 6CEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. nor the aurora borealis have ever been obferved here. The ifland has fprings of excellent water, and beautiful cataracts. Of animals there are only ice-foxes, feals, fea-bears, fea-lions, fea"- fcows, &c. No wood at all grows here ; but feveral kinds of plants are feen. The ifland is uninhabited. 3. The COPPER ISLAND. This ifland, which wasfirft vifited in 1755, by Yakovlief, a mafter- fmelter, lies eafl-fouth-eafl from the mouth of the river Kamtmatka, in 55 deg. n. lat. and ex- tends from north- weft to fouth-eaft, very narrow and long, to 55 verfts jn length. On the northern fide its fhores are for the moft part bold and rocky, interchangeably with confider- able bays ; but on the fouth fide they are more gentle, and in part fandy. Only towards the fouth-eaft cape the coaft is fronted by huge over- hanging rocks and fhoals, which at ebb-tide form a level with the more. The whole ifland is perfectly deftitute of wood, and very moun- tainous. The mountains are very lofty, and confift of a brittle ftony ftratum, which fre- quently tumbles down in very large mattes. In the north-weftern promontory native copper is found, (from which circumftance the ifland re- ceives its name,) where, in a fteep declivity of the mountain, two openings rife near the fur- face, OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. i\ face, fcarce twenty fathoms afunder, and about as far from the point or promontory, which lead to a fchiftus gangart, mixed with quartz and crumby fpar, bearing a calcareous earth transfufed with verdigris, from which native cop- per and copper-glafs are got. Clofe to this, on the ftrand, left by the water at ebb, little bits of copper about the fize of a bean, thrown up by the fea, are gathered. On the fouth fide of the point of the mountain-reef, at the diftance of fome fathoms from the point, on a flat more, were found three cliffs at various dif- tances, partly below the high-water mark, whence more than half a hundred weight of native copper, in all kinds of bits, exfoliations, and mafles were obtained ; and fiill a fourth place prefented itfelf on that fide, feveral fa- thoms from the point of land, right in the' fea> .where, in a fpace 46 feet long and 6 feet broad, feveral little cliffs with native copper and copper- glafs expofed themfelves to light. The large ft piece of this native copper is to be feen in the cabinet of natural hiftory in the imperial aca- demy of fciences at St. Peterfburg, weighing upwards of ten pounds. 4. TheKuaiLSKOY iflands. Under this name are comprifed all thofe great and little iflands which lie concatenated ia, the eaftern ocean, from 192 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RlVERS, &C. from the foreland of the peninfula of Kaino fhatka, or the kurilloy Lopatka, as it is called, between fouth and weft, .to the japan ifland Matmai ; fome whereof are inhabited and wood- ed, others quite bare and rocky, and a few that are volcanic. The fea-room occupied by them, taking it from the kurilfkaia Lopatka to the ifle Matmai, may be eftimated at thirteen hundred verfts. Of the two Kurilly iflands that lie neareft the Lopatka, the ftrft accounts were brought to Ruffia in the year 1713. The others have been fucceffively known from that period to 1779, by means of ruffian manners, who, at the time, put them under contribution to the crown. At prefent, we reckon them to be in all one-and-twenty in number ; namely, i. Shoumtfhu, the neareft to Kamtfliatka. The channel between the Lopatka and this ifland is 1 5 verflsover. The length of the ifland, from north- eaft to fouth-weft, is 50, and the breadth 30 verfls. The land is low, with moderate ridges of hills. The eaftern coafls, about the middle of the ifland, form ftcep fhores and rocky Ihelves, and are for fome way into the fea ftudded with rocks. Here is ore j and it is faid that a vein of filver has been formerly worked. In the centre of the ifland is a lake, 5 verfts in circuit, and flows by a ftreamlet into the fea. In this are caught final 6 falmon, OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 193 falmon, and feveral other kinds of fifli. There are no ftandard trees upon the ifland, only bufhes of alder, willow, and an efpalier kind of pine, or fiberian cedar, on which grow little cedar-nuts. The inhabitants are not genuine Kurils, but of kamtfhadale defcent ; of thefe 44 perfons pay tribute. 2. Poromufhir ; be- tween which and the former ifland the ftraight is but 2 verfts broad. It lies from north-eaft to fouth-weft, and is twice as large as Shoumtfhu, very hilly, richly furnifhed with lakes and mine- rals, but deftitute of wood. Here is no fcarcity of red foxes, wolves, and all kinds of mice. 3. Shirinki. The diftance from Poromufhir to this third ifland may be about 26 verfts. On it rifes a round mountain-top, and about it on the coaft walls of rock and loofe brittle ftone, but no fandy bay, nor any fafe inlet for {hipping. The ifland is nearly as broad as it is long, and may be about 40 verfts in circumference. It is only inhabited by fea-lions and other marine animals, with fome red foxes and fea-fowl that have been carried thither with the ice. Except a few flicks of the mountain-pine and fome alder-bufhes, there is no wood on the ifland j and as to water, there is neither a ftream nor a fpring. The rocks are very much difpofed to break, and fall in fragments. 4. Makan Kur VOL. i. o AfTev, 194 6CEAN5, SEAS, LAKE?, RlVERS, &C. Afley, lies at the diftance of 60 verfts from the foregoing ; in length it is 20 verfts, and in breadth 10. It is fcattered with rocks, efpecially about the fhores, and many meadow-grounds, and moid plains. It has no {landing wood, but fuch fhrubs as in the laft-inentioned ifland. Red foxes hefe are a few, and fea-beavers and feals lie about the mores of this uninhabited ifland, which has neither lake nor dream, but plenty of fprings on all fides. 5. Anakutan ; the diftance hither from the fourth ifland is 35 verfls. It is about too verfts long and 15 broad. Three fummits of mountains here dif- tinguifh themfelves by their elevation, two of which have exhaufted craters. The wood is here likewife fcrubbed and fcanty. Red foxes are pretty numerous ; but few fea-beavers, &c. on the coaft. Several ftreams of hard water flow from it into the fea. 6. Ar-Amakutan ; the diftance of this ifland is no more than 6 verfls from the laft-mentioned. It is in length 20, and in breadth i o verfts. In the centre of the ifland flands a reeky mountain, which was formerly a volcano ; and towards the ftraight between it and the fifth ifland, on the eaftern fhore, (lands another, which is alfo reported to have been once a burning mountain, the foot and fummit whereof are covered with white fend. OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 195 fand. This ifland is alfo uninhabited, and is only vifited by the Kurils on account of the chace ; as it abounds with foxes, and on the fhores are fea-lions and fea-otters. In the deep declivity of the coaft is found waflerbley, or mo- lybdasna, in a white ftratum. 7. Syafkutan ; from the fixth ifland hither it may be 50 verfts ; the current in the flraight between them is very rapid. This ifland is alfo uninhabited. It is 80 verfts long and 5 broad. Upon it are two high rocky mountains. One of them ftands in the northern half, on the north-eaft fhore, extends ridge-wife, and has formerly burnt j round about are rocky hills and a coaft of cliffs. The other huge rock is on the promontory near the north-weft fide, and, from the pinnacle to the fea more, on both fides, confifts of nothing but rock and crumbling ftone. 8. Ikarma ; this is about 1 2 verfts from the feventh ifland, and is 8 verfts long. Upon it is a volcano, which at times emits flames. The fhore is in general ftony, here and there prefenting a fulphureous fpring. Lakes and ftreams here are none j and, in regard to wood and animals, the defcription of the foregoing ifland may ferve as well for this. 9. Tfhirinkutan ; to this from the eighth ifland is computed at 30 verfts. The ifle is round, and has 15 verfts in diameter. A mountain o 2 near 196 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C, near upon the ftrand is continually iffumg fmoke, and very frequently lets large ftones roll down one of its fides, whereby a valley has been excavated from top to bottom. The coaft round about is mountainous and rocky. This ifland has great numbers of wild fowl, but in other re- fpe&s is like the former. i o. Muflyr ; from the ninth, this round and ftony ifland lies at the diflance cf 35 verfts, the diameter whereof can- not be more than 3 verfts. It is deftitute of water, but is notwithstanding frequented by great quantities of birds. Here are alfo fea- lions in abundance. 1 1. Rach koke ; the dif- tance from the tenth ifland to this is ftated to be 1 20 verfts. The length and breadth of it may each amount to about 20 verfts, and it looks like a folitary mountain pufhing upwards from the fea. Formerly k had verdure upon it, with fhelves of rock, where the fea-fowl made their nefts in great numbers. But thefe rocky fhelves have been demolifhed by the eruption of fubter- raneous fires, which fplit the fummit of the mountain, throwing up vaft quantities of ftones- and afhes, and fince that time the ifland has al- ways continued burning. At this eruption thofe places on the mores where formerly they had 13 fathom water, were filled up with rubbifh and afhes into fhoals and banks. 12. Mutova ; be- 8 tweeii OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 197 tween this and the eleventh iiland the diftancc amounts to 45 verfts. It may be about 30 verfts long, and nearly the fame number in breadth. On the fouth fide ftands a very lofty mountain, from whofe fummit a thick black finoke is conftantly rifmg, and which at times carts up red-hot (tones, fpreading danger and de- folation around it. To the north, vallies rich in herbs and habitable plains extend, where va- rious kinds of edible roots and wild fruits grow as in the forementioned iflands. Foxes are the only land-animals here. Perfons fubjecl to the tribute are here numbered at 63. 13. Raffagu ; this ifland lies 40 verfts diftant from the twelfth, and is about 30 verfts meafured either way. It has lofty mountains and fteep rocky fhores, with very few fandy bays. On the mountains, here and there, is a good foreft of birch, alders, and the nut-bearing pine ; the vales and flats abound in herbs. On the land is no other animal than the fox, but the cliffs of the rocks afford nefting- places for all kinds of fea-birds, and the beavers and feals lie fcattered on feveral parts of the ftrand. Here are no ft reams that yield fifti. The Kurils on this ifland are not numerous, and part of them are baptized. 14. Uffaffyr, lies 1 7 verfts from it, and may be in length and breadth about 25 verfts each. It is properly .two iflands o 3 lying 198 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. lying clofe together, confifting of confiderable rocks and cliffs. Opening to the fouth is a round bay, in the fhape of a kettle encompafled with hills, where the ftrand is fandy ; and along it, as well as on the fea-fhore, runs a fource of almoft hot water, and not far from it another. Here too are fome fpouts, running ftrong, and throwing the water to a confiderable height in the air. In many places we perceive chaps and chafms in the earth of a hundred fathom in length, and fometimes more. Near the great fpout the more is deep and high, producing large lumps of fulphur and falmiak, which partly fall down, and partly are collected there. Other- wife the ifland is in quality like the former. 15. Ketoi, lies 36 verfts from the fourteenth ifland, and is 30 verfts in length, with about 10 in breadth. On this ifland are feen high mountains, with their white rocky-walls and fummits ; at the foot of thefe and in the vallies are forefts of birch, alders, the forbus fylveftris aucuparia, the pinus cembra, the pinus montana, and another fpecies which is probably a taxus. The ifland nourifhes white, black-bellied, and red foxes. The fea-animals do not lie in great plenty. The ifland is uninhabited. 16. Se- muflyr ; here we may reckon 30 verfts from the fifteenth ifland, The length of this is 130 verfts. OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 199 verfts, and the breadth not more than 10. This ifland has four mountains, one of \vhich fhews evident traces of its having formerly burnt ; elfe it is of the fame properties with the laft- mentioned. The paflTage hence to the feven- teenth ifland is 200 verfts. 17. Tfhirpo Oi, with two adjacent iflands ; both in length and breadth it may be efiimated at 15 verrts. This ifland has had a volcano, that has vomited (tones over the whole face of it. In lieu of all foreft- woods, nothing is here to be feen, except bufhes of the above-mentioned forbus fylveftris, and no flreams, but one little faline lake. In one fpot is a falt-fpring of that kind called acidulse, the water whereof lofes its acidity by boiling. On an adjacent ifland is alfa a volcano. 1 8. Ourup, diftant from the foregoing 25 verfts. This ifland is of a more refpectable fize than moft of the others, being 200 verfts long, and 20 broad. It has high mountains with bald heads, very fteep, and about them deep glens. On the north coaft lie four fmall ifles almoft contiguous. In the vales, and befide the ftreams, fometimes is feen a plain j and as well in the vallies as on the mountains, as likewife over the whole ifland on the north and eaft fides, grow good high forefts of birches, alders, the forbus fylveftris, and (Uirdy willows. On the mores and in the valley, o 4 plains 200 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. plains the herbs fhoot uncommonly high. Streams of confiderable fize fall from the mountains into the fea, and yield a variety of fifh. In the north- ern part, about the middle of the ifland, is an inland fea, which fends its waters, by a broad flream, into the ocean. The dream abounds infifh. There are great quantities of rats on this ifland, and red and white foxes in plenty. \Vhere the mountains are broken into ruins, appear various clefts producing ore, fuch as copper-pyrites mixed with quartz, fulphur-pyrites as hard as fleel, with quartz, and a poor copper-pyrites in a calcareous gangue. This ifland is only frequent* ed for taking the foxes. 1 9. Etorpu ; it lies 30 verfls from the foregoing, and is either way, about 300 verfls. Lofty mountains with nume- rous fummits are diifufed over the whole ifland ; one of them, at the northern extremity, emits a continual fmoke from its top, and, at intervals, flames. The fummits of the mountains are bald, with fleep cliffs and heaps of rubbifh. Here are ftrong forefts confifling of the fame trees with the laft-mentioned ifland. In the fouthern half, near about the centre of the ifland, grow larch- trees, in the proximity of the fea, but flender, though farther inland, in the plains of the val- lies, good timber-trees, fit for the purpofes of building. Here are likewife black bears, and in the OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 2O| the forefts fables and foxes are met with. Of nits there is no fcarcity ; fifh-otters haunt the flreams ; the brooks abound in fifli. During the ftorms that happen here, whales and large dolphins are thrown afliore by the fea. The fea-otter is not feen here, but fea-lions, though not of any great dimenfions. The inhabitants are hairy Kurils, who dwell together in villages. They are numbered to the capitation tax at 92 perfons. -*- 20. KunafTyr j from the former ifland to this are about 40 verfts. It is 150 verfts long and 50 broad, and is entirely furroundcd by mountains with lofty fummits ; but on the middle of the iflands are low plains. Firs, larches, birch, &c. grow here. At the fouthern extremity, a flat fandy beach extends from the mountains, where the fea brings up a fpecies of pearl-bearing muflel in vaft abundance ; fome of the bignefs of a deflert-plate. The ifland has lakes and broad ftreams that abound in fim. It is likewife inhabited by Kurils, who are rated at 4 1 perfons. 21. Tfhikota ; diftant from the former ifland 70 verfts. It is in length 120, and in breadth 40 verfts. It has lofty mountains, with fimilar forefts to thofe of the twentieth, with lakes and dreams of wholefome water. The in- habitants are alfo Kurils. At the fouthern extre- mity lie ten petty ifles. The two-and-twentieth is 202 OCEANS, SEAS, J.AKES, RIVERS, &C. is the ifland Matmai, the largeft of all, and the neareft to Japan, whence it is diftant hut 25 verfts. Its fize and extent are not at prefent known. The channel between this ifland and Japan is faid to be no more than 60 verfts over, and full of rocks. The current here is extremely rapid. On the fouthern promontory (lands the japanefe town Matmai, where the fupreme com- mander has his refidence, The hairy Kurils are in pofleflion of the inland parts of the ifland. The Japanefe and Chinefe refort hither in trading- veflels for the purpofes of commerce, which con- .fifts of taking in barter of the Kurils, fea-otters, feals, and various forts of furs, alfo fat, oil, and blubber of whales and other marine animal?, eagles' feathers for fledging their darts and arrows, and other articles, which they get very cheap in exchange for filk and cotton pieces for garments, japanned veflfels, rice, brandy, to* bacco, fabres, knives, pots, and kettles, hatchets^ and the like. In the regions of the bay Atkis, the land extends northward in a great headland, where lofty mountains rife in all parts, tending eaftward in ridges. Within land are fpacious vales between the mountains, and ample rivers roll in currents to the fea. The coaft abounds in bays and bites, which might be made to ferve as harbours. The forefts confift of oaks, beech, OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 2CJ elm, red-wood of an unknown fpecies, birch, willows, and other trees never feen to grow in Ruflia. On the mountains are a large kind of nut in great abundance. The fields produce a multitude of unknown herbs and vegetables ; yet among them are perceived ftrawberries, fer- viceberries, cranberries, bilberries, and a large kind of hips and haws. Of animals, the forefts afford haunts to black bears, elks, roebucks, deer (which the Kurils hunt with clubs), fables, foxes, hares, and river-otters. The bays and inland lakes fwarm with all kinds of ducks and other water-fowl ; nor is the country deficient in frogs and fnakes. Of thefe two-and-twenty kurilli iflands, only the former twenty-one are fubject to Ruffia ; but all of thefe do not pay tribute. 5. The ALEUTSKY iflands. Under this ge- neral appellation are comprehended that chain of iflands which extends from Kamtfhatka, beyond the Copper-ifland, north-eaftward to the conti- nent of America, whereof the moft confiderable amount to forty in number. We may clearly admit this chain of iflands to be a branch of the kamtfhadale mountains continued in the fea. A part of it was firfl feen foon after the difcovery of Bearing's ifland, the reft at feveral periods fmce. South-eaftward of the Copper-ifland, within 204 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. within 150 or 200 verfts between the 54th and 55th deg. of n. lat. lie three fmall iflands known by the names of Attak, Shemya, and Semitfhi, and, with a few others, were firft denominated by the Ruffians Aleutfkie oftrova, becaufe a bald rock, in the language cf thefe parts, is called aleut. In the fequel this name was extended to the whole chain ; though a part of it, namely as far as the ifland Yamblak, are named the An- dreanoffkoi, and the reft, lying farther towards America, the Fox iflands. Of the above- mentioned three little iflands, Attak is the biggeft, feems to have a larger extent of furface than Behring's ifland, and has an oblong form, lying more weft and eaft. No volcanic traces have been difcovered, and here are no land-animals but ice-foxes and rock-foxes, more frequently blue than white. The fea-otters come hither but Cngly ; whereas fea-lions, fea-bears, manatis, and other fea-animals frequent thefe mores in herds. That row of iflands comprehended under the name of Andreanof fkiye oftrova, runs fouth-eaftward from the extremeft of thofe pro- perly called the Aleutan iflands, continuing the chain as far as the Fox iflands, between eaft by north and eaft-north-eaft, within the $zd and 54th deg. of n. lat. The fouthern and neareft are inconfiderable iflands, and but little known. More OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. More remarkable are : Takavangha, which has in its centre, near the northern coaft, a burning mountain ; Kanaghi, likewife with a high fmok- ing mountain j Ayag, which has a number of good bays and anchoring-places ; and Tfhetchina, on which a high white mountain over-tops the reft, which apparently is an extincl volcano, as there are ftill hot fprings on this ifland. The late Mr. Muller arranged the iflands between Kamt- ihatka and America, in the following manner : Under the general name Safignes are fix iflands, viz. Behring's and Copper iflands, and the neareft Aleutans, whereof Otma, Samia, and Anatto, are moil eminent. The fecond divifion is called Chao, and comprehends eight iflands : Imrmek, Kiika, Tmetghina, Ava, Chavia, Tfhagulak, Ulagabma, and Amtfhigda, or the more diftant Aleutans. The third clafs bears the name of Negho, and contains what are called the An- dreanoffkiye iflands, that is the fixteen following ; Amatkineg, "Uiek, Unalga, Navotfha, Uliga, Ansegin, Chagulak, lllafhe, Takavanga, Kanaga, (which two are remarkable for burning-moun- tains,) Lek, Shetfliuna, Tagaluhn, behind which follow fome uninhabited little rocks and iflands, one of which, on account of its black cliffs, is called by the Ruffians, Goreloi *, and, laftly, * The burnt, Atfhak 205 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &c. Atfhak and Amlak. The fourth clafs are the Fox iflands, under the name Kavalang, the number whereof is faid to be fixteen, as~ Amukta, Tfhigama, Tfhegula, Unifoa, Ulaga, Tanagulaena, Kagamin, Kigalga, Shelmaga, Unmak, Agtm-Alaefka*, Unimga, or Unimak, towards which a point of land from the continent of America, with a few circumjacent iflands, is faid to project ; and then, ftill beyond this point, are Uligan, Antun-DurTume, Semedit, and Se- negak, whence perhaps Kadiak was formed. The Andreanofikiye and Fox iflands are in gene- ral juft as mountainous as the Aleutan and Behring's ifland. Their coafts are rocky and fur- rounded by breakers. The land rifes imme- diately from the coafts, to deep, bald, rock- mountains, gradually afcending higher behind each other, and take the appearance of chains of mountains, with a direction length wife of the ifland, and commonly in the midway of the breadth the higheft ridges are formed. Springs take their rife at the foot of the mountain, and flow either in broad and rapid dreams, into the neighbouring fea; or, collecting themfelves in the rocky vales and glens, form ample lakes, -which let off their fuperfluous waters by natural * Or, Unalafhka. canals. OCEANS, SEAS, LAKFS, RIVERS, &C. 2.QJ canals, into the adjacent bays. Several of thefe iflands, where at prefent no fmoking volcano is any longer difcernible, as Ayak and Tflietchina, feem antiently to have had them, as their traces are '(till to be feen in the fulphureous boiling fources that are met with at various intervals. On Tatavanga and Kanaga, among the Andreanof- fkiye iflands, and again on Umnak, on the great ifland Unalafhka, and on Unimga, among the Fox iflands, are flill active volcanoes, which con- tinually emit fmoke, and from fome of them fre- quently iflue flames. Only the fmoking-moun- tain of Unalafhka has never been feen to vomit tire. Any traces of metals have never yet been defcried on thefe volcanic iflands. But carneoles and fardonyxes are brought from them. The foil of thefe iflands is reported to be fimilar to that of Kamtfhatka ; the fame kinds of edible wild berries and roots have been found there, ex- cepting fome few vegetables which feem to be of foreign produce. Befides creeping twigs of wil- low, larches, alders, and birch, which feem as {ittle as on the fnow-mountains, no wood has been perceived on thefe iflands, Kadiak excepted. It is faid, however, that on Unalafhka, in fome deep vales, a fmall matter of wood moots up. But the fea wafts all forts of floating-timber to their mores. Of land-animals, on the Fox iflands 208 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES* RIVEfcS, &C. iflands (though not on the Andreanof fkiye) they have an extraordinary number of foxes. Among which there are about as many black and grey, as red and brown. Here are alfo bears, wolves, river-otters, river-beavers, martins, and ermines, which are however in inferior quantity, and feem to be come over from America. The fea-otter is frequently caught here. Their feas abound in all forts of feals, dolphins, and whales ; fea-lions and porpoifes are rare, and fea-cows not at all to be feen. The water-fowl and fifh are the fame as at Kamtmatka. The winter is tolerably mild, but the fummer equally mort and unpleafant. Thefe iflands are pretty well peopled ; the inha- bitants moftly pay tribute to Ruflia, and drive a bartering trade with the ruffian mariners who go thither on account of the very profitable chace of fea-otters and foxes. They are, however, not always to be trufted, as no fmall number of Ruffians have experienced to their coft, having been robbed and murdered by thefe favages. Of the inhabitants of Unalafhka, their clothing, food, &c. an account is given in the voyages of Capt. Cook. The mod noted harbours in thefe feas are that of Peter and Paul, (or Avatfha,) on Kamtmatka, and the port of Okhotlk. In the former englifli veflels have at various times landed ; and from OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 2O9 from both feveral ruffian fhips, for the purpofes of the chace and the taking of fea-animals, to the iflands in the ocean. Ebbs and floods, and particularly the currents, are very ftrong. The fea-water is uncommonly fait. But this prodi- gious ocean is in general by far too little known at prefent for a particular defcription of it. Kamtfhatka (fays Mr. Kirwan, in his ingenious eftimate of the temperature of different latitudes) is fo diftant from the Atlantic, that its tempe- rature is no way influenced by it, but rather by that of the north Pacific to which it adjoins. On the eaftern coaft, lat. 55, Captain Cook found fnow 6 or 8 feet deep in May, and it continued till June ; in May the thermometer was moftly at 32, and on the i5th of June not higher than 58; in Auguft its greateft height was 65, and its loweft 40* ; in October the hills began to be covered with fnow; in November, De- cember, and January, there are violent florins, accompanied with mow, the wind at E. and S. E. In January the cold is fometimes 28, but generally 8. The northern parts of this peninfula enjoy the moft moderate weather, being chiefly influ- enced by the north fea, whofe temperature, I believe even in winter, is milder than that of the VOL. i. f fea 2IO OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. fea below the (heights that feparate Afia from America. Speaking of the temperature of the north Pacific ocean, the fame judicious and accurate author obferves, that this part of it is contracted in lat. 66 9 to the narrow fpace of 40 miles ; and in lat. 52 it occupies the fpace of only 30 in breadth, from eaft to weft, that is, about 1300 miles j whereas the Atlantic in lat. 52 is about 1700 miles in breadth, and is nowhere con- tradted to a lefs fpace than 700 miles. Add to this, that the coafts of Afia on the one fide, and thofe of America on the other, are bordered with high mountains covered with fnow for a great part of the year ; and numerous high iflands lie fcattered between both continents. From thefe circumftances we have fufficient reafon to conclude a priori, that this fea mould be much colder than that portion of the At- lantic contained between the fame parallels ; for, during the winter, the mountains that line the coafts, are cooled to a much greater degree, than the flat coafts of the Atlantic ; and the fea, where narrow is entirely frozen ; in fummer, heaps of ice, being long fheltered from the fun by the iflands, are carried down into lower lati- tudes, and the fnow remains long unmelted on the OCEANS, SEAS, LARES, RIVERS, &C. 211 the mountains ; fo that he is inclined to think, that the annual temperature of it is at leaft 4 degrees below that of the ftandard in each cor- refponding latitude. But the obfervations either on thefe feas, or the neighbouring coafts, are not as yet fufficiently numerous, to determine, with any precifion, the mean temperature of any of thefe parts. 3. The EUXINE, or BLACK-SEA. This laves the mores of Taurida and a part of the govern- ments of Caucafus and Ekatarinoflaf. It is di- vided into the Euxine proper, the Pontus Euxi- nus, computed to be 1000 verfts in length, and 500 in breadth ; and the fea of Azof, the Palus Meotides of the antients, which (not including the bay of Taganrok) is ftated to be 200 verfts long and 1 60 verfts broad. Both thefe are now entirely within the confines of the ruffian em- pire. The moft important of the bays they form, are: i. The Liman at the mouth of the Dniepr. 2. The bay near Perekop ; and ?. that clofe to Yenicaly. Thefe feas have but few iflands in the vicinity of the ruffian coafts j the moft confiderable of them is Taman. The principal harbours here are : Kaffa *, Sebaftopol, Koflof, Balaklava, and fome others. At the * Now Theodofia. p 2 -wefterii 412 OCEAtfS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. weftern extremity of thefe feas, within the pro- vince of Taurida, is a very large .pool, called Sivafh, or the Putrid fea, which is about 140 verfts long and 14 broad. 4. The BALTIC, or EAST SEA, antiently called Variatzkoie more, or the fea of Variaghi, lies weftward of Ruflia *. That part of it which wafhes the coafts of the governments of St. Pe- terfburg, Reval and Viborg is called the Gulf of Finland, which is about 400 verfts long, and 100 broad; and the part extending between the government of Riga and the ifland CEfel, is called the Bay of Riga. The chief harbours in this fea are: i. Riga Cor Dunamunde). 2. Reval. 3. Pernau. 4. Habfal. 5. Roger- vik, now called Baltic port. 6. Peterfburg (or Cronftadt). 7. Viborg. 8. Tredericklhamm, and 9. Arenfburg, on the ifle of CEfel. The principal iilands in this fea, belonging to Ruflia, are : Dago, CEfel, Cronftadt, Hochland, Tyter- faari, Lavanfaari, Penifaari, and Seitfaari. There are great fifheries in thefe parts, and numbers of feals are taken ; but far more confiderable is the navigation : as it may be computed that * Ptolomy calls this fea Venedicus fmus ; Tacitus, Mare Suevicum ; and Pliny fpeaks of it under the name of Codanus fmus. The Ruffians call it Baltifkoe more ; and the Swedes, Ofter-Sjon. every OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 213 every year upwards of 2000 fhips of burden pafs to and from the ruffian ports alone. Much {kill and caution are requifite for navigating this fea, and efpecially the gulf of Finland, both on ac- count of the heavy gales of wind fo frequent here, and the multitude of rocks and (helves with which thefe feas abound. The water is but moderately fait, and has a very perceptible current, fo that in northernly winds it is almoft frefh to the tafle. It is affirmed, on very good foundation, that the water of the Baltic is con- tinually decreafmg *. I mall conclude this head with a mort de- fcription of the above-mentioned iflands, and a fomewhat more circumftantial account of Cron- ftadt, which, as it is properly the port of St. Peterfburg, and the centre of its foreign com- merce, feems to demand particular notice. DAGO or DAGEN, and CEsEL are two con- fiderable but rocky iflands. On the latter are neverthelefs many beautiful flowers. Confider- able quantities of limeftone and marble are brought away from it f. * According to repeated obfervations made in Sweden, the Baltic is found to fubiidc at the rate of 45 inch;* every 100 years. f See Hup. i. 315. iii. 407. Haigold, ii. 363. p 3 CESEL, '214 OCEANSj SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. CEsEL, commonly called in efthnic, Kum' faar, i. e. Crane ifland, but by the inhabitants Sare ma, i. e. The ifland. A literary gentleman of the place fuppofes the former name may primarily have been ufed to exprefs the Kures ifland : for, as the Kures, efpecially thofe on the coaft, by the teftimony of hiftory, frequently made common caufe with the (Efelans, the Livo- nians on the main land might anfwer the inter- rogatories of the Germans on their arrival : CEfel is the ifland of the Kures, Kure or Kun\- faar ; whence afterwards Kurrefaar might pro- bably arife. The Lettifh called this ifland Sahmu femme ; on which a fagacious critic remarked, that this name likewife may have undergone a gradual change, and at firft was Sahna femme, i. e. Side-land. The length of the ifland is, from the little ftrait to Arenfburg, 8 fwedifh miles, or i o ruflian verfls ; and thence to the extremity of the cape that points towards Cour- land, 6 fwedifh miles, or 7! ruflian verfls ; con- fequently, according to the old fwedifh admea- furement 14, but by the recent ruflian 17$. The breadth is in fome parts 6, in others 8, and in others again 1 1 verfts ; being the narroweft at Salm, where it is not above i verfts over. The temperature of the air is moderate and folubrious j the foil is in molt parts fand, loam, and OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 215 and clay, and therefore poor ; but with good ma- nuring with cow-dung or fea-weed, and proper culture, it produces good corn, particularly wheat, rye, and barley ; in favourable feafons likewife oats and peas ; only the quite fandy parts feldom yield good barley, efpecially in dry fum- mers, as it then all runs to draw. The (lone-quarries here are fine and very pro- ductive. A flatuary from Peterlburg came hither in 1778, and dug out large blocks of limeftone four or five yards long, of which he made the ftatues for the new imperial armory at St. Peterfburg, and fince that time great quan- tities of blocks and flabs for table-monuments, &c. have been fent to that place. The academy has likewife obtained various kinds of beautiful and rare (tones from CEfel. The marble lately difcovered is veined of blue, red, and yellow, but is not found in large pieces ; befides, it ap- pears to be not of fufficient maturity. Black and grey flagftone are found here ; likewife red- befprinkled grindftone in large maffes, which, there being no other demand for them, are broke to pieces by the boors. The character of the CEfel peafantry much refembles that of their brethren the Efthonians, only that the former are more cleanly and or- derly, are in general not given to drinking, and P 4 fuch 2l6 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. fuch as exceed a little in that particular, prefer beer to brandy. In miific and dancing, thofe of CEfel mew more tafte than the inhabitants of the adjacent continent : we occafionally meet with boors who produce very tolerable airs from their favourite inflrument the bagpipes ; they have likevvife two forts of dances ; one, called by them the fuur or koerge tants, i. e. the great or high dance, and another named pifluke tants, the little dance. Their houfes are more commodious and more adapted to health than thofe of the Eftho- nians ; they have windows, and fome begin to have chirnnies. In fome of the rooms are deal- floors : feveral of the wealthier fort no longer burn laths for light, but dfe tallow candles, and the opulent boors along the coaft have iron lamps with fea-dog-oil : however thefe elegancies are very rare, the generality live in much hum- bler ftyle. For the Eflhonians and the Lettifh an almanac is annually printed in their own language, and fold at an eafy price : but the boors of CEiel make themfelves their kalendar ; for which pur- pofe, as they cannot write, they have made choice of certain figns, which they mark in an artlefs manner on feven narrow flat flicks tied together by a thong, or more properly on thirteen fides. On each fide is a month confifting of 28 days. By OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 217 By this kalendar they know at once every week- day, every immovable feftival, and every day that is memorable among them by any fuper- flitious rites ; for each has its peculiar fign. They begin to reckon every fucceffive year one day later than the laft ; and in the ufe of the kalendar they follow the practice of the Hebrews, and other oriental nations, who begin their books at what with us is the end, and read from right to left. MOHN, called by the Efthonians Muho ma, which literally fignifies, the land of boils or fores. The ftrait, called the great found, which feparates it from the main land is about 1 2 miles over ; the tranfport being made in fummer by large boats, called prames. The like pafs between Mohn and CEfel acrofs the little found, which fomewhat refembles a large haven. Various reafons have been alleged for fuppofing that it gradually arofe and feparated the two iflands. Henry the Lettonian defcribes the tracH to CEfel with great accuracy ; he relates the diffi- culties of the voyage ; but fays not a word of the little found, in mentioning the divifion of the province to which Mohn belongs. Mohn lies to the fouth-weft of CEfel, forming a parifti of itfelf, with its own church and preacher. Ships in paffing the great found take boors as pilots on board, 21 8 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. hoard, to whom they pay 5 rubles. Near the middle of the ifland on an eminence ftands the church. Many of the boors live comfortably ; almoil every one of them having his own little portion of foreft, which they keep neat and clean on account of the fcarcity of fuel, and which as well as their hay-fields are inclofed by a fort of wall of flones laid one on another. As a flicker from the dorms to which thefe feas are fubject, fome have built their houfes in the midft of thefe Kttle thickets, carefully gathering up the dry tivigs that fall off in the autumn to fave fire- wood. By this prudent diligence their woods have a very elegant appearance; but on the coafts nothing is to be feen but hay-fields and rocks. Not only acorns and bilberries, but alfo wild nuts and crab-apples grow here, of which lad the boots make a tolerably well-tafted cyder ; in the farms they alfo ufe them for fwine-maft. By collecting the ftones for inclofures, the inha- bitants have cleared their fields of them and gained confiderable fpots of land. The circum- ference of the whole ifland amounts to 65 verfU. The paflage over the great found in Cummer with oars is made in about four hours, but with a fail and a fair wind, in lefs than two. To Mohn belong two fmall ilkuds ; one lying tovviirds the north, and quite uninhabited, is merely OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 219 merely a hay-field for the boors of Mohn ; the other lies nearly between CEfel and Mohn, in the little found, and here live three boors. For fome years pad CEfel as well as Mohn have been vifited with the diitemper of the horned cattle, but not raging with fo much violence as on the terra firma. Here is a large flagnant lake, from which a canal has been made to the fea. The whole place is full of fhilf fo as to look like a wood ; but it is cut down and turned to profit. The proprietors of eftates have erected two fluices that the canal may be fhut in, by which an uncommonly productive fifhery has arifen here of the fifh that come up the canal in the fpring after the frefh water. RUUN, for fo it is pronounced ; Runo, Ru- neholm, as it is ufually called, come from the Swedifh. In an extenfive fenfe it belongs to the province of CEfel. This iiland lies in the middle of the gulf of Riga, at the diftance of 90 miles from the town of that name, and juft as far from CEfel. It is diftinguifliable far off at fea by a foreft of birch-trees, which occupies one of its fides. It is entirely the properly of the crown, and is inhabited folely by fwediih boors. Here is a church and a preacher ; who, if we may judge from the fmallnek of his congregation, mufl be of 22O OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. of a contented difpofition, and exercifed in patience ; though his income is very decent, having the tithe of all the products of the ifland, and a parcel of land befide. Vefiels rarely pafs between this and Riga j but the people take little concern about the tranfaftions of the firm land. In behoof of the mips here is a light-houfe, for a fupply of which the boors are obliged to buy the fuel on the firm land, for which the crown allows them 40 dollars. There is no farm on the ifland, except that of the paflorate. The arendator collects the itated imports merely from the boors, which amount to no great mat- ter. For fettling the differences that arife among the boors, the paftor, with a convocation of the elders, decides in the firfl inflance ; the difcon- tented have an appeal from this decifion to the arendator. It is affirmed, that, among the inha- bitants are found fome remains of the old Livo- nians : they fpeak the runic language, which is entirely confined to them, and perhaps is the true Livonian ; alfo the efthnic, the lettifh, the fwedifh, but moft commonly the german and rufs, each with facility from their frequent inter- courfc \vitli others. In the labours of the chace and the capture of the fea-dog, they are inde- fatigable, whereby they gain an opulent fubfift- ence. OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 221 ence. They live in great harmony, and only in- termarry among their own fociety *. DAGO lies nearly in the 59th deg. of n. lat. exa&ly oppofite to CEfel, from which it is fepa- rated by a fmall ftrait. It is diftant from the main land upwards of 18, and in fome places above 30 miles. This ifland is at leafl 54 miles in length, of an oblong fhape, having a promon- tory extending weflward far into the fea; a fmaller one to the north-eaft, another to the fouth, and a fourth almoft due eaft. The others are lefs confiderable. Each of the four principal fides, which are not all quite equal, reach in a ftraight line from about 25 to 35, but along the more, on account of its finuofities, to at leaft 48 miles. In regard to the main body of the iiland, the inhabitants reckon it in length from 30 to 36 miles, and in breadth 24 ; but, taking the promontories into the account, the right line from eaft to weft gives a breadth of 48 miles ; and from fouth to north a length of 36 miles. The weitern promontory is about 1 8 miles long, and as many broad. The paifage from the main land to Dago is ufually either acrofs the ifland Vorms j or pafiing * Thefe accounts are communicated by paftor Haken, at Yamma, who is very advantageoufly known to the people of thefe parts. by 22 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. by the little ifle of Heflholm fouthward or north * ward. Many direft their courfe by the village Vachterbse, where a foreft of alders, feen at a great diftance, ferves for a land-mark ; hence it is forbidden, under very heavy penalties, to cut down a tree of this foreft. In fummer-time the paflage is very fafe acrofs the found in a little boat with three boors ; though by reafon of fome unavoidable circuitous routes, the paflage is reckoned at from 24 to 36 miles, and even more. There is doubtlefs great danger from fudden fqualls of wind ; but misfortunes are not often heard of, as the parts being well known to the inhabitants, they eafily run into fome bite of one of the petty ifles. It frequently happens that a paffenger is long detained by contrary winds, and, not being accuftomed to take much pro- vifions for fo fhort a voyage, does penance for this negleft by fuffering extreme hunger. The numerous mallows, fand-banks, and fmall ifiands, render the navigation about Dago fome- \vhat perilous ; and mips are often ftranded here. On the weflern promontory, whofe extreme point is known to mariners by the name- of DAGERORT, a light-houfe is maintained for their benefit. It (lands about 3 miles from the fea, on a mountain computed to be 22 fathoms in perpendicular height. OCEAttS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 22j No peftilential difeafe was ever known to make tiny ravages here; and the population is fo grea% that the eflatcs are almoft burdened by the fuper- tluity of people. Accordingly in fummer many of them go to the main land and gain a liveli- hood by ditching, bricklaying, plaftering, &c. \vliere likewife \vhole families are often fold. The land is not fufficient to their fupport, and the landlords would derive no profit from their eftates if they were obliged to maintain their vaf- fals. As they cannot all live by agriculture, many turn their hands to various arts and handi- crafts, in which, by their uncommon ingenuity, they fucceed fo well as fufficiently to confute the prejudice concerning the ftupidity of the Eftho- nians. We find among them numbers of expert workmen in gold and filyer, turners, clockmakers, lockfmiths, carpenters, joiners, and even fhip- builders. The majority of the country-people are Efthonians ; yet here are many, even whole villages of fwedifli boors : all of thefe however have not equal privileges with the former. The ifland is deficient neither in forefts nor in (lone. On the weftern part is much fandj but the fouth- ern and eaftern parts confift of a bluifh clay, and therefore a fertile foil. Accordingly a confider- ably quantity of good corn is produced ; only the feed requires to be fown fomewh.it early. Barlev 224 OCEAN'S, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. Barley thrives well in rainy feafons. The counts de la Gardie were the principal proprietors in the ifland, and four capital eftates now belong to one of their defcendants, the countefs Sten- bock. The fand-banks that lie about Dago, at low-water refemble illands ; but in long wefternly winds are overflowed. Near the Puhalep church are the ruins of an antient cattle, which the boors call Vallipea, denoting a fortrefs, and which they pretend to take its date even from the heathenifh times. Perhaps it is only the fort Gurgenfburg, built by the Swedes in the fix- teenth century. VORMS *, to which the common charts unac- countably give the name of Ormfon. It is in length 1 2 miles ; in breadth 6 verfts, and the fhape of it nearly quadrangular. NUK, or Nukoe. This ifland at times be- comes a peninfula ; being joined to the firm land : but, when the water is high, and the wind blows from the fea, the flood runs fo between, that it is entirely cut oft from the land, though at times it is poflible to walk dry-mod from either to the other. KASSAR, to the fouthward of Dago, with a chapel, is 6 vents long and between 2 and 4 verfts broad. * In efthaic it is called Vormfifaari. 6 ODEN- OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 225 ODENSHOLM, lying to the north of Nuk, likewife with a chapel. HESTHOLM, that is, Horfe-ifle, to the fouth of Vorms, uninhabited, and only vifited for taking its crop of hay. The other little iflands, which are frequented only for the laft-mentioned purpofe, and that of the fifhery, need no farther notice ; fome of them are merely rocks or fand-banks. HOCHLAND, or Highland, is an oblong rock, 3 or 4 verfts in breadth, and 8 or 10 in length, ihooting up almoft in the middle of the gulf of Finland, and diflant from St. Peterfburg 1 65 verfts, from Viborg 106, from the more of Efthonia 62, and from the coaft of Finland 45. The channel about this iiland is from 20 to 30 fathom, and flill nearer the land of fufficient depth ; fo that mips of the largeft conftruftion may fail round it. Two light-houfes are kept here by the crown. Hochland may be faid to be one mafs of ftone ; not only becaufe it moftly confifts of rocks, but alfo becaufe one rock ad- heres to the other. Thefe pieces of rock are almoft innumerable, and of various dimenfions ; five of them however are remarkable for their height. In 'the heart of the ifle is a deep and gloomy vale, not above 100 fathom wide, in which are ftill to be feen fome remains of a very VOL. i. CL antient $26 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. antient bridge. The ifland has likewife a great deal of fwampy ground ; it is not, however, defti- tute of wood, iuch as pines, firs, birch, alder, &c. On the higheft rocks are three little lakes, not without fifli ; neither is there any deficiency of frefh fprings. The inhabitants are Finns, amounting to about 30 families. It cannot be ex- peeled that the arts of agriculture are much practifed here ; however there are fome meadow- lands. Of domeftic animals here are only a few black cattle and a little flock or two of fheep. Of wild fowl, they have woodcocks, ducks, eagles, hawks, crows, mews, fparrows, yellow- hammers, chaffinches, &c. magpies are not to be feen, though they abound on all the firm land of thefe parts. Seals are caught in great abundance ; and dolphins are often taken. Of the lands of fifh, herrings*, are in the greateft plenty. Lead-ore is faid to have been found here. TYTERSAARI is a round ifland, pretty high, but not above 10 verfts in circuit. It lies 1 8 verfts to the fouth-eaft of Hochland. As ap- pendages, on the weftern fide, or in the found between it and Hochland, it has four fmall ifles, quite low, but pretty far afunder: Kleintitter, the two Viri, and Vuotcalla, and oil the foutheffr. * Dupe* fide OCEANS, SEAS, LA*ES, RIVERS, &C. 22? fide a ftony ground, 7 or 8 verfts in length, to the Narva pafiage ; hence, it is hardly poflible to knd on this ifland. A third part of it is rock, another third is morafs, and the reft an arid and fterile fand-hiH. The ifland has no fprings. The feal-fifhery is here cpnfiderable. The inhabitants live together in one village. LAVANSAARI is 7 verfts long and 4 verfts broad. It is diftant from St. Peterlburg 120 verfts, and from Viborg 82. Of all the iflands in the gulf of Finland this is the moft populous, except Cronftadt, containing upwards of 40 fa- milies. It is furrounded on the north-weft fide by feveral petty ifles and mallows ; it has how- ever no lefs than three harbours, capacious enough for even a large fhip to run into. In the middle of the ifland is a lake, fmall indeed, but full of fifli. Somewhat of agriculture is in prac- tice here ; and formerly there were fpecimens of forefts. The animals on this, are the fame as on the foregoing iflands. PENIS A A RI is only 3 verfts long, and half a verft broad, and lies 6 verfts from Lavanfaari. It is inhabited only by a few families, and has no \vater-fprings. SEITSAARI is 5 verfts long, and about half as much in breadth, and is 95 verfts diftant from St. Peterfburg, and 75 from Viborg. The fand- Q_ 2 banks 418 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. banks here reach as far as to the peterfburg chan- nel, and, being invifible from their lying under water, are fo dangerous in dark nights, that in this place alone not fewer veflels have been loft than in all other parts of the gulf of Finland together. The land is every where unfruitful ; in fome of the marfhes there is indeed a flight crop of hay. Great numbers of eels and ftone- pearch are caught here. The herring and feal fifhery is here alfo confiderable. The inhabitants make up about 20 families. Here is likewife a light-houfe. CRONSTADT. This iiland was called by the Finns, Retufari, and by the Ruffians Kotloi oftrof*. In 1723, together with the town, it obtained the name of Cronftadt. It lies at the eaftern extremity of the gulf of Finland, which, from this rile to Peterfburg, is called the gulf of Cronftadt. It lies weft-north-weft of St. Peterf- burg, 39 verfts; is 7 verfts from Oranienbaum, and from Seftrabek 1 2. The ifland, from eaflj to weft, is 8 verfts long, by about i verft in breadth ; is flat, fomewhat about 8 fathom higher than the water-level; has fome wood, chiefly birch, the black alder, and fome firs. The foil, as is feen in digging the canals and docks, con- lifts, under the fcanty fod, of layers of clay, * Kettle-ifland. fand, OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 22Q fand, and limeftone. Two petty iflands on its fouth fide are occupied by forts, one of which is called Cronflot, and the other fort St. Alexander. There is ftill a third, on the northern fide of the channel, fmaller than either of thefe, bearing the name of St. John. Cronftadt was built by Peter the great in 1710, as a town, and harbour for fhips of war and merchantmen, to which pur- pofes he had already defigned it on laying the foundations of St. Peterfburg. The town com- prehends the eafternmoft part of the ifland, is fpacious, containing a number of good houfes, churches, and public edifices ; but, on account of many inferior buildings, mean houfes, vacant places, &c. by no means handfome. It is popu- lous, efpecially in the (hipping feafon, when the ftreets are thronged with mariners from all the ports of Europe, particularly the Englifhj on whofe account, as well as thofe of our country- men, who are flationary on this ifland for the purpofes of commerce ; here is a chapel main- tained by the Ruffia company of London, at which the fervice of the church of England is regularly performed every Sunday through, out the year. The Lutherans have alfo a church on this ifland, for the ufe of the Germans. Numerous as the inhabitants of this place are, from the fleet lying here, the 0. 3 garrifon, 230 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKfeS, RIVERS, &C. garrifon, the cuftom-houfe, the corps de cadets 3 the labourers in the docks, yards, &c. together with their connections, and the families that live here for the reafons above-mentioned, yet the number of regiftered burghers is but fmall ; in the year 1783, they were only 204. The man- of-war's mole, as it is called, in its prefent ftate, is well worth the attention of the curious, and accordingly is vifited by the numerous travellers that take Peterfburg in their route, with grea^ fatisfaclion. It is inclofed by a ftrong and ele- gant rampart built of granite in the fea, under the direction of that gallant commander and up- right man, the late admiral Samuel Greig, to whofe unwearied activity and uncommon talents the ruffian navy is fo highly indebted, and whofe lofs will not eafily be compenfated to the empire. Here are alfo the celebrated Peter 's-canal, and the docks. The canal was begun under Peter the great, and completed by general Lubras in the reign of Elizabeth. At the end of the canal fland t\vo pyramidal columns with infcriptions relative to this undertaking. It is lined with mafonry, is 1050 fathoms long, in breadth at bottom 60 fathoms, and at top i oo ; it is 24 fathoms deep, and in this manner ftretches 358 fathoms into the fea. Adjoining to the Canal are the docks j in which i o and more /hips OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 23! of the line may be refitted at once. They are furnifhed with floodgates for admitting and let- ting out the men of war. The water is evacuated from the bafon by a fleam-engine conftrufted by an englifh engineer, and is worked by coals from England. Here is a founder/ for cafling cannon-balls, under the direction of that in- genious artifl Mr. Baird, from North Britain ; and a rope-walk for making fhips-cables of all fizes. The marine cadet-corps was founded by Peter the great in 1715, for the education of fea-officers ; and the emprefs Elizabeth enlarged it in 1752, for 360 pupils. It is now removed to Peterfburg, on the Vaffilli-oftrof, where it had been before it was placed at Cronftadt; being under the fuperintendance of an admiral, till lately admiral Kutufof, and having officers of the navy for its infpe&ors. The cadets are of noble families, and divided into three companies of 120 each. They are inftru&ed in languages, geography, aftronomy, naval architecture, and navigation, in climbing the mrowds, handling the rigging, fwimming, &c. and the greater lads who are called mariners, are taught all the functions of the fervice ; and, in order to be- come midfhipmeB, the loweft rank of officers, muft have made three voyages as cadets. Their Q_ 4 uniform, 32 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. uniform is green, with white facings and under- clothes. The marine hofpital at Cronftadt is on a very extenfive fcale. In 1788, it had at feveral times 25,007 patients; and in 1789, it had 16,809. Of the former number 20,924 went out cured, and of the latter 12,974. BALTIC PORT. This is the fame with Ro- gervik from Rog, the ifland in which it is formed. Of the inland Seas, and principal Lakes of Rn/ia. The Cafpian. THIS large body of water, being not vifibly connected ^ith any of the great oceans, and ap- parently not having an outlet, has been thought by fome writers not properly to deferve the ap- pellation of a fea, but to be more fitly clafied among the larger lakes. However, on account of its fiihery and the perfian commerce it is of great confequence to the empire. The O.fpian, mare Cafpium, was antiently called by the Greeks the Hyrcanian fea ; the Tartars give it the name of Akdinghis, the White-fea ; by the Georgians it is termed the Kurilhenfkian fea, and the Perfians denominate 4 it OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 233 it Gurfen, from the old perfian capital, Gurgan, which is faid to have flood in the province of Aftrabat, only 7 verfts from the fea. The name Hyrcanian fea is as much as to fay the perfian fea ; for, in the perfian language, Perfia is not called the perfian, but the Hyrcanian empire. The Cafpian reaches in length, from about the 37th to the 47th deg. of north lat. and in breadth^ where it is the wideft, from the 65th to the 74th deg. of longitude. Its fuperficial contents amount to above 36,000 fquare miles, englifli *. The antient geographers had but a very imper- fect knowledge of it. Some thought it was conne&ed with the Frozen-ocean, while others were of opinion that it joined with the Euxine. Ptolemy, among others, embraced the latter hy- pothefis ; affirming that there was a fubterrane- ous communication between the waters of both : as, otherwife it was not to be explained how fo many large rivers mould flow into the Cafpian, * What M. Pallas fays of the antient extent and decline of the Cafpian highly deferves perufal, in his travels, part iii. p. 569 & feq. But the infertion of it here would render the article too prolix for the defign of this work. It is not onlyprobable that its antient fhore might be fixed at the Obflitfhei-Syrt, but that the Cafpian was once connected with the Baltic, and this again with the Euxine ; whereof a proof may be feen in the quality of the earth in all thefc parts. for 234 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. for which there was not one channel out of it. And, indeed who can wonder at the difficulty in which they found themfelves involved? For tvhat becomes of the waters of the Volga, the Ya'ik, the Yemba, the Kur, or Cyrus, of the Araxes, the Byftraia, the Akfa, the Koifa, the Terek, and the numberlefs others that flow into it ? By the fun alone they cannot be evapo- rated * ; there is no vifible outlet for them ; and yet the fea is never perceptibly fwollen, except merely in the fpring on the melting of the fnows. They who have recourfe to fubterraneous palfages, through which it mud flow into the perfian fea, or more probably into the Euxine, nfuaily bring two arguments in fupport of their notion. In the firfl place, fay they, the Cafpian lifes very high in a wefterly wind ; whereas the Euxine, on the contrary, rages moft when the wind is at eaft : confequently, the eaft wind fa- vours the exit of the waters of the Cafpian, and the well wind impedes it, But this is a fallacia eaufe non caufa. AH the winds that bring damp vapours with them are more ftormy than Uiofe which come from arid regions. But now * For a more particular difcufiion of this matter, the leader is referred to ' the ftate of Ruffia, by the ingenious Capt. Perry, p. 100 & feq. printed at London, 1716. Aft OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 235 the weft wind comes hither from the Euxine and the Palus Moeotis. Confequently the Caf- pian muft necefiarily be put in more vehe- ment agitation by it. Secondly, it is pretended that there is in this fea a whirlpool, which, with a horrid noife, fwallows up all the fuperfluous water, and dif- charges it into the Euxine. In prpof of this, it is farther urged, that a fpecies of fea-weed, growing only on the fhores of the Cafpian, is found at the mouth of this tremendous vortex. To which they add, that near to this vortex is a fort of nfh found no-where elfe but in the Euxine. And laflly, that in days of yore, a fifti was taken in the Cafpian fea, with a golden .ring about its tail, on which was this infcrip- tion : Mithridates mihi dabat in urbe Sinope li- bertatem et hoc donum *. But later accounts know nothing of a whirlpool ; the fifties that are laid to be found only there and in the Euxine, we mail be better able to fpeak of when they are more accurately defcribed ; and the ftory from Kircher has very much the air of a fiction. Sea-weed grows every where on the fhores of this fea, from Aftrakhan to Sulak, and thence to the muganian fteppe. * Ivyxher, Mund. fub^err. lib. ii. cap. 13. The 236 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. The natural evafion of the waters of the Cafpian into the Euxine is therefore an un- grounded hypothefis. An artificial one was at- tempted by Seleucus Nicanor, "after the death of Alexander the great : but, from caufes un- known to us, his attempt proved abortive. How- ever, it is afferted by travellers, that traces of very deep vallies are dill to be feen, through which the canal is faid to have gone. In the reign of Peter L it was that the Cafpian began to be more accurately furveyed, when it was found to be in length about icoo verfts, but in its greateft breadth not more than 400. Thus, in its extreme length, from the river Ural, which is its northern extremity, and lies in 46 15' north lat. quite to Aftrabat, its extremity to the fcuth, in 36 50' it is 9 25' long, which makes 646 engl. miles, reckoning 69 miles to a degree. The breadth of it is extremely various. Its greateft northern breadth, from eaft to weft, is between the gulf of Yemba and the mouth of the Volga, containing 265 engl. miles. Its fouthern broadeft part is from the river Orxantes on the e*ftern, to the river Linkeran on the weftern fide, comprehending 235 englifh miles. The whole circuit, including the gulf, is 3525 verfts. The coafts of the Cafpian, from that point of land, OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 237 land which forms the Agrachan-gulf towards the weft, as far as the river Kulala in Turcomania towards the eaft is all round northwards low, flat, and fwampy, overgrown with reeds, and the water (hallow. The direct diftance from this gulf to Kulala is 1 70 engl. miles. On the whole remaining part of the coc-.it, from Kulala fouthward, and back to the gulf of Agrachan, the country is hilly, has a fteep fhore and deep water. Of the rivers that were formerly fup- pofed to difembogue into it, feveral do not exift, for inftance the Yakfartes and the Oxus, which were pretended to flow hither from the eaft. The chief of thofe that are known to fall into it are: the Eniba, the Ural, the Volga, the Kumma, the Terek, the Sulak, the Agrachan, the Kur, and the Aras. It is related as a ftriking peculiarity of the Cafpian, that during 30 or 35 years its waters are conftantly in- creafing, and then for the fame term continually decreafe ; but this ftory is unfupported by any itated obfervations. Much more certain are the violent and dangerous ftorms * which frequently happen on this fea. The ground, in many places, not far from the more, is already fo deep that a line of 450 fathom will not reach it. The water in general is fait ; but not in all * Burun. places, 63$ OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C* places, particularly not in thofe where the great rivers empty themfelves into it. The mores are for the moft part flat, and only on the eaft fide mountainous. Perhaps the true reafon of this fea remaining equally full, is to be fought in the quality of its bottom ; which confifts, not of a thick flime, but of a fhell-fand, the particles whereof touch- ing but in few points, it is confequently very porous. Of the fame fubflance the whole more is likewife formed. Layer upon layer it lies 3 fathoms deep. This indeed lets the frefh water through, but it becomes immediately fait again by the fait water preffmg on it. Through this fand then the water is filtered, and falls into the abyfs beneath in the fame quantity as it flows into the fea. In the bay of Emba, above the river Yaik, the reverfe is feen. The water there is not let through: it therefore ftagnates, and even the fifhes putrify. Its exhalations are extremely noxious. The wind that blows over this bay has been known to come on with fuch furprifmg force as to throw down the fentinels of the ruf- fian forts ere&ed here, with fo much violence as to kill them. Of the fifh with which thefe parts abound our accounts are cot very circumftantial. The falmon, OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C 239 falmon, however, are as good as thofe of Riga and Archangel, and even more flefhy and fat. The herrings too arc remarkably large, and plumper than the englifn and dutch, but not fo tender. This fea gives nourifhment to myriads of the winged race. Storks, herons, bitterns, fpoon- bills, red geefe, red ducks, and numberlefs others. But the mofl beautiful of all is the red goofe *. It has however nothing in common with a goofe, neither is it red, but white ; the tips of the wings indeed, round the eyes, the beak and the feet are fcarlet. It is of the fize of a ftork, has a long neck and high legs, is very favoury to the tafte, and lives on firn. It may be called Ciconia, vel ardea, roftro adunco lato brevi. A fpecies of red wild ducks is alfo frequent here, which fly in the evening to the tops of the trees and the roofs of houfes, where they perform a noify concert. Their flefh is well tafted, not oily, though, like other water-fowl, they feed on fifh. Of leeches here are two kinds, the hog-leech and the dog-leech, Their holes have two aper- * Ruff, krafnaia gus. . tures, OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C, tares, one towards the fouth and the other facing the north, which they open and fhut ac- cording to the change of the wind. On the more, between Terki and Derbenr, grows a grafs on which all the quadrupeds feed with avidity : to the horfe alone the eating of it is fatal. They die upon the fpot. Peter th great caufed the experiment to be made in hig prefence, and the common report was found to be true. The Cafpian contains a confiderable number of iflands, moftly fandy ; and to the nfh above- mentioned we may add the following : the fterlet, two kinds of flurgeon, feals, and por- pufes. Flux and reflux have here never been perceived. The principal harbours and roads of the Cafpian are: i.Derbent; which, however, fcarcely deferves that name ; and even the road, by reafon of its rocky bottom, is very incom- modious. 2. Nifovaia-priftan, over-againft the mouth of the river Nifabat, where there is a good road of firm fand. 3. Baku; here. is the beft haven in the whole Cafpian, being full two fathoms in depth. 4. Sallian, in the northern arm of the river Kur. 5. Enfili, or Sinfili, has indeed but an indifferent road, yet it is one of the OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 24! the principal ports of trade. 6. Medmetifar and Farabat. 7. Tukaragan and Manghifhlak, have good harbours. The governments of Ufimfk and Caucafus border on the Cafpian. The Baikal. It lies in the government of Irkutfk, and ex. tends from the 51 ft to above the 55th deg. north lat. The Ruffians ftyle it a fea, more Baikal * ; but, if the Cafpian be not allowed that title, the Baikal can ftill lefs pretend to it ; how- ever, the Ruffians honour it yet farther by giving it that other name of Svetoie more, the holy fea. Whether it be lake or fea, next to the Cafpian it is the largeft body of water in the ruffian empire. In length it is between 500 and 600 verfts, and in its various breadths is 20, 30, 50, and in fome places 70 verfts. Sur- rounded almoft entirely with high and moftly bald mountains. Towards the latter end of De- cember it is ufually frozen over, and in the be- ginning of May the ice breaks up. The water of the Baikal is uncommonly clear, but it is fub- jeft to frequent ftorms, and thefe very violent, particularly in September. It abounds in fifh, and contains, among others, great fhoals of a * Mare Baikal. VOL. i, R fpecies 242 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &c. fpecies of herring, there called omuli. Here are alfo plenty of feals. The Baikal has fome iflands, whereof the principal bears the name of Olkhon, in the proximity whereof fulphur fources are found. Among the rivers that empty themfelves into this fea, the principal are : the upper Angara, the Bargufm, and the Selenga, which join it from the north, the eaft, and the fouth ; whereas, only one ftream, the great An- gara, in the weft, derives its origin from it. Travellers intending to go beyond Irkutfk, into the remoter eaftern parts of Siberia, commonly take their paflage acrofs the Baikal. There is indeed a road that leads round it, but it is at- tended with great difficulties. The LADOGA lake. It lies in the government of Vyborg, between the gulf of Finland and the lake of Onega. In antient times it is faid to have been called Nebo. Being in length 175, and in breadth 105 verfls, it is reckoned one of the largeft lakes in Europe. It produces a great number of feals. On account of the perilous florms to which it is liable, and the feveral fand- banks which are ever ihifting their pofition, Peter the great caufed the famous ladoga canal to be dug along its more, from the Volkof into the Neva; which canal is 104 verfts long, 10 fajenes broad, one fajene and a half deep, and has OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 243 has 25 fluices. By the Neva the Ladoga is connected with the Baltic ; by the Svir with the Onega; and by the Volkhof with the Ilmen. Into the canal flow the rivers Lipke, Nafia, Sheldika, Lava, and Kabona ; into the lake the rivers Pafha, Siaes, Oiast, &c. Whereas the Neva alone runs out of it. Only the fouthern part of the lake belongs to Ruflia, which has every where a low ihore and a fandy rim. On this fhore it has alfo a few low fifhery iflands and a fandy bottom. That part of the north- ern fide which lies in the government of Qlo- netz has marble on its coaft, whence fome of thofe beautiful and durable kinds of finnifli marble are brought to St. Peterfburg. As the bed of this lake, for a great extent, is in the lowed part of the country, it receives befides the above-mentioned rivers, the waters that come from the alum hills ; all of which, as be- fore obferved, have no other outlet than the Neva. The lake ONEGA. It lies in the government of Olonetz, between the Ladoga and the White- fea. Its length is between 180 and 200 verfts, and its breadth from 60 to 80. Like the La- doga it contains a few iflands confiding of marble, and in all other properties is much the fame. With other rivers, the Vitegra falls into R 2 it 244 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. it on the fouth-eaft fide, which river takes its rife not far from the Koflha, which falls into the Bielo-ozero. On the Kofftia is the priftan Badoga, and on the Vitegra the priftan Vite- gorfkaia, which are only about 40 verfts afun- der. Now, as from the Onega the navigable river Svir runs into the Ladoga ; and from the Bielo-ozero the Shekfna flows into the Volga, there needs only a canal to be cut the faid dif- tance of 40 verfts, for connecting the Neva with the Volga, which would be much more convenient for the navigation here than the paf- fage by Vifhnoi-volotmok, becaufe there are no waterfalls, and therefore all the danger and trouble attending them in the prefent paflage would be obviated. The lake PEIPUS, or Tfliudfkoe-ozero. It lies between the governments of Pfcove, Reval, Riga, and St. Peterfburg, extending in length to about 80, and in breadth to 60 verfts. By means of a very broad ftrait it is connected with the Pfcove lake, the length of which is ftated to be 50, and the breadth, which is always de- creafmg, 40 verfts. This latter receives the river Velikaia. Out of the Peipus comes the Narova, which through the Embach has com- munication with the Vertz-erb lake ; out of this, on the other hand, flows the Fellin into the gulf OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 245 gulf of Riga ; and confequently a very benefi- cial water-paflage might be made between Riga and fome of the inland provinces, by way of the Peipus lake. The commodities which go to Narva along the Narova are obliged, on ac- count of the falls in that river, to be carried a great way by land. There are a few fmall iflands in the Peipus, but not of confequence enough to deferve much notice, excepting in- deed Porka or Bork, called by the Efthom'ans Porkafaar, which is not only inhabited, but is furnimed with forefls, and has no lefs than three villages upon it. A little gulf that is conftantly incroaching more and more upon the land, may, in no great fpace of time, compel the inhabit- ants in its vicinity to fhift their habitations. Among the feveral brooks and rivers that flow into the Peipus, the Embach is the mod con- fiderable. The exit is through the Narva river into the gulf of Finland. It greatly facilitates the commerce between Pfcove, Dorpat, and Narva; though this advantage might doubt- lefs be rendered more beneficial, and extended to more diftrich by fome improvements ; parti- cularly if Dorpat could be enabled to fend the produds of the circumjacent country by water to Narva. Inftead of fix horfes and as many men, the tranfport of a load of rye would then R 3 require 246 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. require only two people. In ftormy weather the badly-built barks and other veflels are not, unfrequently very much damaged ; an inconve- nience that might eafily be prevented by orders from the magiftracy to conftruct the veflels by certain regulations. The vaft multitudes of fifh that breed in this lake afford a lucrative oc- cupation to the boors of thefe parts, and in- creafe the revenues of the adjoining eflates, the owners of which let out the parts on which their lands abut at a certain rent. The corn lands ad- jacent to the mores are by no means fufficient to the nourimment of the people employed in nQieries ; this deficiency however is abundantly fupplied in autumn and winter by the barter of nih againfl flour. The fifh are principally, rebfe, a fpecies of herring, and barbel. The former are fold for 30 to 90 kopeeks a thoufand. A hundred barbel will coft from 3 to 6 rubles, but for a live one they will get at lead 20 kop. Be T fide thefe here are caught pike, pearch, a fpecies of carp, whiting, quabb, korufhki, gudgeons, &c. The pike and fome others are dried in the air and exported ; the rebfe are fometimes fmoked. If the fifhermen were rich enough to keep a provifion of fait always ready for fait- ing what they do not immediately fell of a good capture, they would not be obliged to throw away OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 247 away fo much putrid fifh as they do, to the lofs of their profit and their labour. The II.MEN lake, formerly Moifk, lies in the government of Novgorod, and is about 40 verfts in length and 30 in breadth. It receives the rivers Mfta, Lovat, Shelon, &c. and gives birth to the Volkhof alone. The BIELO-OZERO, or White-lake, is in the fame government with the foregoing ; is about 50 verfts long and 30 broad, and receives into it feveral fmaller ft reams. The only one that flows out of it is the Shekfna, which falls into the Volga. The water of this lake is clear, having a bottom partly clay and partly ftony. The clay is generally of a white colour, and in, ftormy weather caufes a ftrong white foam upon the-furface of the water. Doubtlefs it is from this circumftance that the lake firft obtained its name Bielo *. It contains plenty of fifli and crabs. The lake TSHANY lies partly in the govern- ment of Tobolfk and partly in that Kolhyvan. It communicates with the lakes Moloki and Abifhkan, is of a very confiderable circuit, and abounds in fifh. The lake ALTYN-NOOR, or Teletzkoe-ozero, lies in the government of Kolhyvan, on a very * White. & 4 con- 248 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. confiderable elevation of the altaian mountains, by which it is alfo entirely furrounded. Its length is computed at 126, and its greatefl breadth at 84 veifts. From this lake arifes the famous river By, which, at its conjunction with the Katunia, takes the name of Oby. Of the chief navigable Rivers of Ruffia. So vaft an empire as that of Ruffia cannot but have a great number of confiderable rivers. I (hall here only take notice of the mofl material, arranging them according to the feveral feas into which they flow. Rivers that flow into the Baltic. The DUNA. This is named by the Ruffians fapadnaiaDvina, and by the Lithuanians Daugava. It derives its origin from a lake in the govern- ment of Tver, at Biala, not far from the fources of the Volga, purfues its courfe through this and the government of Pfcove, conftitutes the boundary between the governments of Polotzk and Riga, the republic of Poland and the duchy of Courland, and falls not far from Riga, at Dunamunde, into the Baltic. In its courfe it takes up feveral fmaller rivers, as, the Toroptza, the Eveft, the Oger, and the Yagel, and from Courland OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 249 Courland the Bulder-Aa. The Duna is navi- gable all the way from its uppermoft regions, facilitating the commerce from feveral govern- ments, and from Poland and Courland, to an uncommon degree. About a thoufand veflfels and barks, of various dimenfions, pafs annually along it, to and from the aforefaid towns. It has however one inconvenience, which is, that near Dunamunde, there are a great many fhoals, every year increafmg and fhifting their pofitions, which occafions much difficulty in the navigation. To this inconvenience may be added another, that, in the Dunaburg circle, there are feveral falls, the mooting whereof is attended with great difficulty and danger. Some reckon thefe falls at 14 in number. I mail only mention one near Seleburg, another by Lennevarden, and a third adjacent to Rummel. This third is the laft the vefiels have to moot before they come to Riga ; the firfl is highefl and mod dangerous ; a concealed point of rock threatens all the floats and veflels that moot the fall with imminent de- ftruclion, and numbers, at low water, perifh without redemption. The fteerfman, notwith- ftanding he has taken a pilot on board, muft exert the utmoft caution. The noife of the water allowing of no oral commands, they are ufually given by t,he hand or by waving the cap j and the 550 OCZANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. the people, jufl ere they, come to the verge of the watery precipice, fall down on their knees and pray. The frequent difafters that happen here are very profitable to the courifh boors that lurk in the adjacent caverns, or the purpofe of appropri- ating to themfelves what they can from the wreck. No remedy has hitherto been devifed for this great nuifance. Between Uexkull and the Rummel, in the bed of the river, lie a number of large {tones, fome of which have been already blown up at the expence of the corporation of Riga. Thefe obftacles do not allow at all feafons of the year a free pafiage, which is only commodious or attended with the lead danger at high water in the fpring. The few veffels whofe owners re- folye on a voyage back, againft the ftream, are obliged not only to be drawn by men, but muft be unloaded at the falls. The conftant defection of the water in fummer renders the voyage ftill more difficult and tedious ; on the early coming on of autumnal frofts utterly impofTible. At Riga the Duna is 900 paces broad. Here an- nually in April a bridge of pontons is thrown acrofs it, and fattened by poles, except the part that opens to let the mips go through, which is fixed to anchors. Generally in November the river is covered with ice, which in March or April again breaks up. The froft not unfre- quently OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 25! quently makes the water pafTable on foot in the fpace of eight-and-forty hours. The bridge is then taken away, and fafely laid by in a fmall arm of the river, called the Soodgraben. The whole fummer through, the great number of mips of all nations lying clofe to the bridge on both fides, is allowed by all travellers to be a fine fight. This Duna is the port of Riga. But, as nothing is perfect, this beneficent river often puts the city and the circumjacent territory into the moft ferious alarm, and does them con- fiderable mifchief. In the fpring feafon the ice drives hither from Lithuania ; while about the town and to the fea all is ftill fad. The outlet being flopped, and the accumulation continually augmenting, the moft lamentable inundations have been frequently occafioned. That of the year 1771 is, from the lofs of people, houfes, and cattle, and a damage of more than 200,000 dollars in amount, ftill frefh in the memory of all men. In 1770, the cutting-through of the folid ice greatly facilitated the evafion of what was floating, which alfo run off in 1772, without caufing any damage. The falmon of the Duna are the moft excellent and the deareft of all Livonia. To conclude, this river has in general a faridy and clayey more, and a difcoloured water. The 252 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. The NEVA. It draws its current from the lake of Ladoga, traverfes the government of St. Peterfburg for 60 verfts in length, flowing through the city, and at lad falling in feveral arms, into the gulf of Cronftadt. It reaches the city under the walls of the Nevfki monaftery, after having juft above it admitted the waters of the rivulet Ochta. The feveral mouths of the Neva are all within the city ; and are called : the Nevka, which runs on the right fide, in the Viborg quarter, among the hofpitals, and flows, in a beautiful dream, north-weftward and then weftward into the gulf. On its weflern direction it divides on the right into the great Nevka, and on the left into the little Nevka, thereby, and by crofs arms, forming iilands. Acrofs this divifion runs the Karpovka, a morafs-brook, from its left fide to the little Nevka, and thereby forms the Apothecary ifland. The Nevka, the great * Nevka, and the little f Nevka, are from 50 to 100 fathom broad, have mallow places, fome of which are often dry, good neva-water, and flow fluggifhly. The FONT AN K A goes from the Nevka, on the right of the Neva, flowing as a flow morafs-brook, firft fouthernly, then weftward parallel with the Neva, to the Cronftadt gulf, into which, with the great Neva, it formerly fell into * Bolfhaia. f two OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 253 two arms. In the former reigns it had been deepened and lined with fides of timber, but gra- dually filled up again, and in fummer was par- tially dry. By order of her late majefty it was dug afrefh, to a bed of one fathom in depth, and in breadth 10 or 12, and its fides faced with hewn granite raifed on piles to the height of a fathom above the water's level, with an iron baluftrade ; and, withoutfide of this, a pavement five feet broad of granite flags, for the accom- modation of foot paflengers. Its banks are now full of fine flowing neva-water, is navigable for barks of burden, and conftitutes one of the chief ornaments of this imperial refidence, worthy of the great and benign fovereign who honoured it with her throne and her prefence. The expence of this undertaking, which Catharine the fecond begun in 1780, by general Bauer, and com- pleted in 1789, by prince Vafemfltoi, was truly imperial. The length of the river is nearly 3000 fathoms or about 6 verfls. Every fa- thom of which on either fide, without rec- koning the digging of the river, or the pro- curing and the driving of the numberlefs piles for the ground-work, and exclufively of the fumptuous bridges of ornamented granite that crofs it at various diftances, the embanking it alone with granite coft at firfl 182 rubles, but this 254 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. this price gradually rofe higher and higher, till at laft 300 rubles were paid for every fathom in length on either fide. The MOIKATUHS from the right of the Fontanka, not far below its de- parture from the Neva, and flows almoft parallel with it, wherein it falls to the left of the great Neva, clofe above its mouth. It was a morafs- brook, like the Fontanka, and like it had been dug out in one of the former reigns, and faced with wooden walls. In this (late it dill remains, much choaked up in various parts, confequently the water runs very flowly in fummer, and is far worfe than that of the Neva, however it is ufeful for culinary purpofes. The emprefs had fignified her intention of having this river dug out and banked with granite, for the benefit and decoration of the city. The KATARINA- CANAL, was likewife a fwamp-ftream, running above the Moika, and falling into the right fide of the Fontanka, not far above its mouth* Catharine the fecond caufed it to be made be- tween 7 and 8 fathom wide, and one fathom deep for its bed, and to be faced on both fides, for its whole length of 4 verfts, with granite, like the Fontanka, and to be furniflied with foot- ways, an iron balufirade, and defcents for the conveniency of taking up water. An arm of it, 9 fmifhed OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 255 finifhed in the fame manner, runs by the Nicolai church, from the right fide of the Katarina- canal, to the Neva, and is called, The NICOLAI- CANAL. That, named after the fovereign, the Katarina-canal, was begun in 1764, and finifhed in 1790. It has very much drained the low quarter of the town through which it pafles, and procured it the advantage of pure running water, and a paflage for barks loaded with wood for fuel, iron, and other necefiaries. The LITTLE NLVA* goes off from the main river oil the right fide under the walls of the fortrefs, and flows weft-north-weflward to the gulf. It is broader than the great Neva, but more mallow, and purpofely rendered innavigable by Peter the great, on account of Sweden and the cuftoms. Its right more is left in its natural ftate, without buttrefs, and has a parallel arm at the Petrovka, which, flowing to the Nevka, forms the ifle Petrovfk. The left more has above, as far as the buildings on the Vamlli-oftrof reach, a but- trefs of timber, and lower down, in the woods, two morafiy collateral arms that form iflands, and are called Tfhernaia retchka, or the black rivulet. Having made this diftribution of Malaia Neva. waters, 256 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. waters, the main flream, or the great Neva % flows, in a fouth-wefhvard direction, from 150 to upwards of 200 fathoms in breadth, and in fome places of great depth, into the Cronftadt- gulf. Its right bank, as far as the buildings on the Vamlli-oftrof reach, is fupported by a wooden buttrefs five or fix foot high. The whole ex- tent of the left-hand bank, Catharine the fecond caufed to be quayed with granite, from the foun- dery to the fartheft extremity of the Galerenhof, excepting only the fpace in front of the admi- ralty. This grand work, which was begun in 1764, and completed in 1788, is diftinguifhed from the ftone margin of the Fontanka by ftill greater ftrength and more magnificence. The ground under water is rammed with piles for three fathom in breadth, with long trunks of fir trees, two fathoms and a half in length. Thefe piles were driven during the winter by engines placed on the ice, and in the fummer fawn deep under the furface of the water, by machines contrived for that purpofe. This done, the foundation was laid, firft by filling the inter- flices of the piles with flints and pebbles, then placing upon this folid bafis feveral layers of flat pudoffkoi pliets, a hard kind of ftone fo called, confolidated together by a tried cement, which was then built upon with fquares of granite of if to OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. itf 1 1 to 2 1 foot thick, and the wall finifhed above as a foot pavement a fathom broad, covered with fimilar quadrats, at the height of 10 feet above the water. The parapet is alfo of the fame hewn granite, two feet and a half high, and one foot and a quarter in thicknefs. At certain dif- tances openings are made in the quay for defcend- ing upon the ice in winter, and ftairs with fpa- cious landing-places and benches, for taking up water, unloading the barks, and for the repofe and convenience of thofe who walk here for bu- fmefs or pleafure. Laftly, the face of the wall is furnifhed with mafly iron rings, for the fatten- ing of galliots, barks, barges, and other veflels. This truly imperial quay is, for its length, which, deducting the fpace before the admiralty j is 1650 fathom* or 3 verfts, for ftrength, mag- nificence, and the coft of building it, unequalled in Europe, and the conftant fubject of admira- tion to foreigners. In the gulf of Cronftadt, juft facing the mouth of the Neva, near the. fouthern more, lie two low marfhy iflands, with brufhwood upon them, of which the greater is called Dolgoi oftrof, or Long-ifland, where a confiderable fimery is carried on. Befides thefe /everal flreams, there is another canal within the town, lined with brickwork and mafonry, furrounding the admiralty ; likewife VOL. i. s fome 258 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKEi, RIVERS, &C. fome fhort canals with wooden fides, which, run- ning between the Neva and the Moika, part the galley wharf and New Holland. TheLicovA canal, 20 verfts long, has its water from the Duderhof hills, with which it fupplies the foun- tains of the emprefs's fummer gardens, diftribut- ing it alfo to the gardens of the late prince Potemkin, and at the fame time fupplying that quarter of the city with water. The water of the Neva, and its feveral arms and running canals, which, befides the Ligova canal, fupplies the whole city, is to be ranked with the lighted, cleareft, and pureft of river waters. Foreigners, indeed, for the firft month or two of their flay at St. Peterfburg, perceive a certain alteration in their habit of body, becom- ing more lax than ufual, which has chiefly been laid to the charge of the neva water. This in- duced Model, and afterwards Georgi, both pro- feffors of the imperial academy, to fubmit it to a chemical procefs : when the former found, in 80 medicinal pounds of the water, taken above the city, only 68 grams of calcareous earth and 3 grains of vegetable extract ; and the latter, in 50 pounds of water, taken within the city, no more than 40 grains of calcareous earth, and 5 grains of extract ; he found it alfo very poor in air. The accident to foreigners feems, there^ fore, OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 259 fore, ro be more owing to the change in their way of living and other caufes, than to proceed from the water of the Neva, which amply compenfates the want of wells and fprings to the city. In ftill weather, the level of the water in the feveral outlets varies about 2 feet ; flrong and continued eaft winds drive the water quicker into the gulf, and accordingly it is 3 or 4 feet lower than the mean height. On the contrary, ftrong, lading weft winds fo greatly reflrain the current, that the river rifes about as much above its mean height. In continued ftorms from the weft, it rifes in the arms, meafured at the fortrefs, 5, 10, 1 5, and more feet. At 5 feet it overflows only the mores without buttrelfes in the weftern quarter of the town ; at 10 feet and upwards of increafed elevation, only the eaftern part of the town re- mains not overflowed. This has frequently hap- pened; but, by good luck, the inundations hitherto have always lafted but a very fhort time, generally but a few hours ; and, by reafon of the progreflive heightening of the parts built upon, by the rubbiih of old, and the materials of new erections, by digging canals, &c they become more rare and lefs injurious. Some thoufands of mips and barks annually pafs and repafs the Neva, either coming from, the injancl parts of the empire, or from foreign s 2 countries $>O OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C, countries acrofs the feas, bringing commodities and provifions to the amount of feveral millions of rubles, to St. Peterfburg. This river re- ceives in its courfe the Ijora and the Tofna. Rivers that fall into the White-fed. The DVINA. This river is called by the Ruffians fievernaia Dvina, the northern Dvina ; which name it firft aflumes on its junction with the two rivers the Sookhona and the Youga, which arife in the government of Vologda. This junction is formed at the city of Ufliug, whence the Dvina takes a north-weft ward courfe ; and at Archangel falls into the White-fea, after having divided itfelf into two confidejrable arms. In its courfe it takes in fome pretty large rivers, and feveral lefler dreams, fuch as, on the right, the Lufa, the Vichegda, and the Pinega ; and to the left, the Vaga, the Yemza, &c. Oppofite to the mouth of the Pinega (lands the antient city Kholmogor. The merchant-veflels run into the eaflern arm of the Dvina, on which the fort Novaia Dvinka is built ; but at firft the weftern, where (lands the monaftery Korelfkoi monaftir, was the mod frequented. This however is now no longer pafiable. In general the (lioals in- creafe from year to year in both, and fuch large /hips cannot now run in as formerly. The Dvina has OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. l6l has the honour of having given reception in 1553, to the firft englifh fhip that ever came to Ruflia. To conclude, it flows moftly through a fwampy and woody region, is navigable from Ufliug, and is tolerably abundant in fifh. The KULOI, and the MESEN. Both flow eaftward of the Dvina, into the White-fea, not far from each other, in the diftrift of the town of Mefenfk. The former takes its rife in the government of Archangel j the latter in that of Vologda. In their not very extenfive courfe they admit the waters of feveral fmaller fivers, Rivers that fall into the Frozen ocean. All thefe rivers have a very perceptible ebb and flow. The PETSHORA, called alfo Bolfhaia, or great Petfhora; to diflinguifh it from the Vifhera, which the . c l:yanes call Pemorya, whence origin- ates the name Petfhora. The Petfhora takes its rife in the weflern fide of the Ural-mountains in the government of Vologda, follows a north-weft courfe, and falls into the Frozen ocean, in the government of Archangel, after dividing into feveral powerful arms. It now flows through a low, forefty, and almofl uninhabited country. $1 firft, when Siberia was conquered, the way s 3 thither 262 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. thither was generally by the Petmora. They failed up the Dvina, the Vichegda, and the Vim, then went a fhort fpace by land to the Petfliora, then up that river, and by land over the Ural- mountains, to the Sofva, from this into the Oby, from the Oby into the Irtifh, from the Jrtifh into the Ket j and from the Ket into the Yenifiey, &c. The OBY. This originates properly in the chinefe Soongoria, from whence it iflues in a copious dream, under the name of Tfhulimman; and, in 52 deg. north lat. and 103 30' longit. falls into the lake Teletzkoe, in the ruffian terri- tory. From this lake, which is called by the Tartars Altinkul, it flows out again under the appellation of the By, not taking that of Oby till its junction with the Katunya. Of all the rivers of the ruffian empire it is efleemed the largeft. In its upper regions it has a ftrong cur- rent and feveral cataracts, but particularly a great number of iflands, moflly in the circle of Berofof. At 67 deg. north lat. and 86 longit. it empties itfelf into the gulf of the fame name, which unites it with the Frozen ocean in 73 deg. 50 min, north lat. and 90 deg. of longit. The principal rivers taken up in its courfe by the Oby, are, to the left : the Katunya, the Tfharyfh, the Alei, the Irtifli, the Conda, and the Sofva -, to the right, OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 263 right, the Tmumyfh, the Tom, the Tmulym, the Ket, and the Voch. Up as far as the mouth of the Ket, the Oby has moftly high and rocky mores ; but farther on, quite to its entrance into the Frozen ocean, it, generally fpeaking, flows over a clayey, fandy, and marly bed. It is navi- gable till very near up to the Teletzkoe ozero, uncommonly prolific in fifli, and in many places is accompanied by forefts of large pine arvd birch trees. The courfe of this river extends about ^oooverfts. Of its collateral rivers, i. The IRTISH is the moft considerable. It rifes likewife in the chinefe Soongoria ; flows through the lake Norfaifan, in north lat. 46 deg. 30 min. then enters the ruffian territory, and, after meandering through a large tracl of coun- try, throws itfelf in 61 north lat. and 86 longit. into the Oby, In its way it takes up the follow- ing rivers ; to the right, the Buchtorma, the Ulba, the Uba, the Om, which is of a clear but black-looking water, and the Tara, all of which again take in a multitude of fmaller rivers and flreams ; to the left, the Ablaket, the Dfargur- ban, the Imin, the Vagai, the Tobol, and the Konda. The Irtifh forms feveral iflands, whereof fome difappear at times, and their places are fup- plied by others ; even its courfe is very variable, & that it is often navigable in a place where it s 4 \vas. 264 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. was not before, and vice verfa. Its water in the inferior regions is whitifh and light, whence it mould feem that it flows over a bottom moftly of calcareous marl. It fwarms with fifn, and its flurgeon are of a flavour particularly deli- cate. 2. The TOBOL takes its rife 52 deg. 30 min, north lat. and 8 1 deg. longit. in the country of the Kirghiftzi, in the chain of mountains that parts it from the government of Ufa. It pours itfelf into the Irtifh, at Tobolfk, after running a courfe df about 500 verfts, during which it takes in the following rivers : the Ui, the Ifet, the Tura, ^nd the Tavda, which all fall into it on the left. Of thefe the Tura is the largeft ; it rifes near Verkhoturia in the Ural-mountains, in about 59 deg. north lat. and glides into the Tobol, in 57 deg. 30 min. after having taken up the rivers Salda, Tegil, Pymma, Nitza, &c. into which laft mentioned, the Neiva, the Mtfti, and the Irbit flow. By this accefiion of waters the Tura becomes a confiderable river, not much inferior to the Tobol itfelf. The Ifet is likewife a river of fome confequence. It rifes out of a lake 2 verfls from Ekatarinenburg; and, after having taken up feveral rivers, as, the Sifert, the Sinava, the Tfetfha, and the Miass, falls into the Tobol, in o deg. north lat. The Tobol has moftly low fhores, ; OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 265 fhores ; and in the fpring feafon frequently fheds its waters far around, 3. The YENISSEY, which the Tartars and Mongoles who inhabit the fuperior regions of it, above th$ Tungufka, call it Kern, and the Oftiaks, Gub or Khefes, which fignifies the Great river, is at firft compofed of two rivers, the Kamfara and the Veikem, originating in the chinefe Soongoria (or Bukharia) and form a conjunction in 51 deg. 30 min. north lat. and j 1 1 of longit. About the mouth of the Bom- Kemtfhyug it enters on ruffian ground, and hence firft takes the name of YeniiTey. After various windings it now tends northward ; and, in 70 deg. north lat. and 103 30' longit. forms a bay .containing feveral iflands ; and at laft, in 3 deg. 30 min. of length, falls into the Frozen ocean. In autumn, when its water is at the lowed, its breadth, e. gr. at the town of Yenif- feifk, is about 570 fathom, whereas in the fpring it is 795 fathom and upwards. The coafts of the Frozen ocean, between the mouths of the Yeniffey and the Oby, are called the Yuratzkoi fliore. The more confiderable ftreams taken up by the Yeniffey, are the following : on the right, the Ufs, the Tuban, the Kan, and the three Tungufkis, that is, the upper, the middle or podkammenaia, and the lower Tungufka. On the Z66 OCEAN'S, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. the left : the Abakan, the Yelovi, and the Tu. rukhan. The Yeniffey, in its fuperior regions, flows over a very ftony bed ; and. its mores, par- ticularly the eaftern, are moftly befet with lofty mountains and rocks. It has in general a very rapid courfe, though near its mouth it flows fo gently that the current is hardly to be perceived at all. In the neighbourhood of Turukanfk and clfewhere it forms fome considerable iflands ; and between the cities of Yeniffeifk and Krafnoyarlk, feveral cataracts are to be feen. The Yenifley is navigable from its mouth as far as Abakan, and yields great quantities of the beft rim. Of all the rivers taken up by the Yenifley, The TUNGUSKIS are the moft considerable. The upper Tungulka arifes out of the Baikal, and bears the name of Angara till its union with the Him. Befides that, it takes up feveral other rivers, as, the Koda, the Tmadovetch, the Iriki, the Kamenka, the Olenka, and the Tatarfkaia, all on the right : to the left, the Oka, and the Tfhuna or Uda. This Tungufka has moftly a ftony bed, ftrewed with rocks ; with feveral cataracls, five of which are very confiderable. Though navigable the whole fummer through, it muft yet be confeffed, that this navigation is toilfome and difficult. The middle Tungufka takes its rife in the government of Irkutlk, among OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 267 among the Baikal-mountains, not far from the origin of the Lena ; and, after a courfe of about 800 verfts, and after having, on the right, taken up the Tfhiucha and the Tihorna, falls into the Yenifley in 62 deg. north lat. The lower Tunguika takes it fource, indeed, in the fame diftricl, but bends its courfe northward ; and after having taken up on the left, the rivers JSfiepa, Svetlaia, with many others ; and on the right, the Rofmaknika, the Turiga and the Gorela, and run a courfe of about 1500 verfts, ftrikes into the Yenifley, not far from Turu- kanik. Near the Turukanfkoi-Troitzkoi-monaf- tir, are feveral dangerous whirlpools in it. 4. The KHATANGA. It arifes out of a lake in the government oFTobctfk, in about 68 deg. north lat. and 110 longit., and in 120 longit t rufhes into a large bay of the Frozen ocean, called Khatanlkaia guba. This river takes its courfe for the moft part through a low and very marfhy country. The mcft confiderable rivers taken up by the Khatanga, are the Kheta and the Potigan. 5. The LENA. This is the greatefl river of eaftern Siberia. It takes it origin on the north- \veftern fide of the Baikal from a morafs, runs at firft weftwards, then to the fouth, then again fo the diflrid of Yakutik eaftwards, and laftly towards $68 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. towards the north, where after having divided itfelf into five great branches at its mouth, and thereby formed four confiderable iflands, flows into the Frozen ocean. Its courfe is computed to be 5000 verfts. Its fource is in 52 deg. 30 jnin. north lat. its mouth in 73 deg. lat. and the eaftern arm in 153, and the weftern in 143 deg. of longit. The Lena has in general a very gentle current. The bottom is moftly fandy, ^nd the more only in the upper regions befet with hills and cliffs. It takes in a multitude of fmaller rivers ; the mofl confiderable of which are, to the left : the Manfurka, the Ilga, the Kuta, the Inse, the Vilvi, and the Muna : to the right, the Kireng, the Vitim, the Patoma, the Olekma, and the Aldan, into which again feveral brooks tranfmit their waters. But of ail thefe .the largeft are, the Vitim, the Olekma, the Vilvi, and the Aldan. Out of the Lena travellers pafs into the Aldan, from that into the Maia, and from the Maia into the Yudoma, from which they have but a mart route to make by land, to Okhotlk. 6. The YANA. It takes its ^rigin in about 64 deg. north, lat. out of a little lake, directs its courfe, with fome fmall turns, towards the north, and previous to its difcharging itfelf into the Frozen ocean, forms five confiderable arms, which OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. l6<) \ehich iiTue in a capacious bay. No large river,- but a great many fmall dreams flow into the Yana. 7. The INDIGIRKA arifes in nearly the fame latitude as the Yana, in the Stanovoi-Krebet, is reinforced by the Amekon, and a multitude of fmaller rivers ; and falls, in four great arms, into the Frozen ocean. 8. The KOLYMA, or KOVYMA, arifes alfo in the Stanovoi-Krebet, almoft over againft Ok- hotlk ; is much invigorated by the waters of numerous rivers, particularly the Omolon, forms a multitude of iflands, and by means of four broad arms flows into the Frozen ocean. Rivers that flow into ibe eaftern or Pacific ocean. The ANADYR. This arifes in the country of Tchuktchi, out of a lake among the frontier mountains which are a continuation of Stanovoi- Krebet, here called Yablonoi-Krebet ; and is therefore to be diflinguifhed from the nertlhin- (koi chain of mountains which alfo bears the name of Yablonoi-Krebet. The former has its appellation from the brook Yablona, which is the firft confiderable dream that runs into the Anadyr, on the right. Indeed it admits a"great many other dreams on either fide ; but they are none of them very large. The bed of the' Anadyr is in general fandy^ and its current is by 270 OCEANS, SEAS, JLAKES, RIVERS, &C. by no means rapid ; its channel is very broad, and contains a good number of ifles, but throughout of fo little depth, that it can fcarcely be crofled in any part with the common ferry- boats of that country, called ihitiki, which have no iron in their conftruclion, being only fewed together, *and drawing no more than two foot "Water. Only at the going off of the ice is the flream of any tolerable depth, from the mouth of the Krafnaia to the place of its exit. From the fource of the Anadyr to the brook Yablona, not a wood is to be feen, but pure barren moun- tains ; below the Yablona are fome flripes of meadow-land and fome poplar trees ; arid on the mountains to the left, for about i oo verfts above Anadyrfkoi-oftrog, are thin woods of larch trees and dwarfim fiberian cedars *. The whole of the northern region as far as the Anadyr, is in general deftitute of ftandard trees, and has fcarcely any pieces fit for pafture j whereas fouth of the river, at no great diftance, efpecially about the head of the main, the Penlhina and the Aklan, are tall timber forefls in abundance. From the Anadyr quite to the Kolyma and the, Frozen ocean, and throughout the whole coun* try of the Tchuktchi, no more foreft has been, diicovered j nay, in this laft country, the mea- * Slanctz. dow- OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 27 I -dow-lhrubs fcarcely (hoot above a fpan high ; as in the whole tract along the northern coaft of Siberia. But fo much the more frequent are the flats, overgrown with yellow and white mofs, on which innumerable herds of wild rein- deer find pafture. The KAMTSHATKA, on the peninfula of that name. It rifes in the fouthern half of it, takes its courfe northwards, but turns weftxvard, and falls below Nimnei-Kamtfliatfkoi, into the ocean. The AMOOR. It is formed of the two rivers, the Argoon and the Shilka, and firft takes this name on their conjunction, and therefore firfl on the chinefe territory. The Shilka takes its fource in the high frontier mountains, runs with them through the nertminfkoi diftrid, and on the left takes up the Ingoda, with feveral other rivulets. The Argoon arifes out of a lake juft upon the frontiers that part Ruflia from China, and forms the border all the way to its exit in the Shilka. Rivers that fall into the Cafplan. The YEMBA or EMBA. It takes its rife in the fouthernmoft part of the Ural-mountains, andcon- ftitutes the border between the ufimfkoi govern- ment and the country of the Kirghiftzi, though the forts are much more to the weft, namely on 15 the 27* OfcEAN'S, SSAS, LAKES, RlVERS, &C. the river Ural. The Yemba takes up only one river of any note, the Sagifs, has a ftrong current j but is at the fame time very mallow. It is the mod eaftward of all the rivers that fall into the Cafpiaru The URAL (formerly the YAIK) has its fource in the weftern fides of the Ural-moun- tains, breaking out of them near the fort of Orfk, for a long tract takes its courfe weft- ward, but from thence runs directly fouth, and, at about 47 deg. north lat. and 70 deg. longit. falls into the Cafpian. It is a large river of a rapid current, and pure water, known to the antients under the name of Rhymnus. Its courfe Is computed at 3000 verfts. It has formed from times immemorial the limits be- tween the Kirghiftzi and the Bafhkirtzi ; and flill there are upon it 30 forts and feveral fore- pofts, againft the former. The mofl confider- able rivers taken up by the Ural, are, to the left, the Or and the Ilek; and to the right, the Kifil, and the Sakmara. Its banks, in the upper regions, are ridged with fteep and lofty rocks : but lower down it flows through a tole- rably dry and very faline fteppe. It is peculiarly abundant in ftm. The VOLGA, one of the mofl famous rivers of Europe. By the writers of antiquity it is fome- OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 273 times named Rha, and fometimes Araxis, by the Tartars Idel, Adal, or Edel, (denoting plenty,) and by the Mordvines is (till called Rhau. It takes its fource in the government of Tver, in the Valday frontier mountains, from feveral lakes, flows thence through that and the govern- ments of Yaroilaf, Koftroma, Nilhney-Novgo- rod, Kafan, Simbirfk, Saratof, and Caucafus, and falls near Aftrakhan into the Cafpian, after having parted into almoft 70 arms, and thereby formed a multitude of iflands. It is reckoned to travel in its courfe above 4000 verfts. It is well known to be an old project of uniting the Volga with the Don, in order to be able, by means of this water-communication, to fail from the Baltic and the Cafpian into the Euxine. Seleucus Nicanor, after him Selim II. and laftly Peter the great, attempted the execution of it, and, in all appearance were prevented from fucceeding, certainly not by the impracticability of the mat- ter, but by other circumflances. It is thought that this junction, by means of a canal in the diftrift of Tzaritzin, where the Don runs at the diftance of only 50 verfts from the Volga, would be more eafily effected than by the propofed Kamimenka. On the mores of the Volga are a number of very refpeclable cities and towns, as, Tver, Uglitfh, Romanof, Yaroflaf, Ko- VOL. i. T ftroma, 3/4 OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. ftroma, Balochna, Nifhney -Novgorod, Kufmode- mianfk, Tfhebakfar, Kalan, Simbirfk, Sifran, Saratof, Tzaritzin, and Aftrakhan. It rolls its waters through many fertile regions, and in its inferior courfe is accompanied by beautiful forefts of oak. In the fpring it violently overflows, and is then navigable where at other times it is not. However, the chief navigation of it begins already at Tver. The Volga poflefles this material advantage, that it has no cataracts, nor any otherwife dangerous places ; but it is continually growing mallower from time to time, fo as to give grounds for apprehenfion that it may one day be no longer navigable for veflels of any tolerable fize. At the commencement of the prefent century, the fiberian falt-fhips might ftili be loaded with 130,000 or 140,000 poods of that article, and fo be brought to Nifhney-Novgo- rod : at prefent they can take in no more than from 70,000 to 90,000 pood. In fi(h it is ex- tremely plentiful, efpecially in fterlet, flurgeon, biela reba, &c. The Volga, in its extenfive courfe takes in a great number of rivers and brooks ; the principal of which are : i. The KAMMA. It is the largeft of all the rivers that unite their dreams with the Volga, and at its mouth is rJmofl larger than it. The Kamina rifes in the government of Perme, from the OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 275 the weftern projections of the Ural-chain, nearly in the fame region with it, waters a fmall part of the government of Viatka, flows through a large tract of the government of Perme, forms the border between the governments of Viatka and Ufa; and, at Laifheva, 60 verfls below Kafan, falls into the Volga. In its courfe it runs over a fpace of 1000 verfls. By the Tartars it is called Tmolman-Idel. For the tranfport of fait and iron from Siberia, it is one of the moll: important rivers of the empire. This is chiefly effected by the Tchuflbvaia and the Belaia, two rivers of confiderable magnitude, flowing into it on the left. Befide thefe, the Kamma takes up a great number of other rivers, fuch as, on the left, the Kolva, the Yaiva, the Kofva, and the Ik ; on the right, the Obva, the Okhan, and the Umyak. The Kamma, above the mouth of the Belaia, (which is of a whitiih water,) has a blackifh, wholefome water. It is moflly attended by a ridge of mountains, confiding of fand, gyp- fum, and marl, with forefls of firs and oaks. It is tolerably well ftored with fifh ; and they are reckoned better tafted than thofe of the Volga. 2. The OKKA. This arifes in the government of Orel, irrigating that, and the governments of Kaluga, Tula, Mofco, Refan, Tambof, Vladimir, T 2 and 376" OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. and Nifhney -Novgorod, then falls, at the city of the laft mentioned name, into the Volga. It is a very confiderable river, navigable to its upper regions, takes up a multitude of fmaller flreams, and thus effects an excellent communication be- tween moft of the inland governments of the* empire. It receives, on its left, the Ugra, the Mofkva, and the Kliafma ; and on its right, the IJpa, the Ofetr, and the Mokfha. The TEREK. It originates in the caucafian mountains, runs at firft towards the weft and fouth, but turns afterwards entirely to the eaft - r and, in about 44 deg. north lat. and 65 longit. falls into the Cafpian. Together with a great number of little mountain-brooks, it takes up, among others, the Bakfan, the Malka, and the Soonfha. Its fource lies properly in the mow-mountains of Caucafus, on the highefi par- tition-ridges of the frontiers of Georgia. Its eourfe is rapid ; and, in the months of July and Auguft, when the melted fnows rufh down int torrents from the mountains into the plain be- neath, fwells to the height of 8 or 10 feet above its ufual level in autumn, winter, and fpring- It then overflows its banks in many places, and lays- the adjacent country under water ; making itfelf in different parts new beds, and choaking up- the old with fand. In its inferior eourfe, as far as OCEANS, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, &C. 277 as Kifliar, it is almoft entirely unaccompanied by woods ; farther up, to Starogladka, by a few ; and thence upwards, its banks are richly gar- nimed with forefts, particularly of oaks, wild- fruit trees, and a variety of others. It does not freeze over every year, though in winter it is full of driving ice. In this feafon its water is tolerably clear, which, at other times, above Kifliar, is turbid with earthy partichs ; but, when taken up, it foon grows clear, and is then bright, well-tafted, and of good quality. Below Kifliar, the river has a far lefs fall, and divides into feveral arms, in which the parted ftream fo gently flows, that it has time to depofe its earthy particles, whereby thefe arms are alternately filling up ; fo that now one, and then another, reprefents the main river. In the lower regions, on the mores of the Terek are feen vineyards, mulberry and other fruit-trees, to which fuc- ceed falt-lakes, and fprings of the fame nature. Its bed is moftly of fand and clay. In rim, the Terek, as well as all its collateral rivers, is poor. Yet there are caught in it fturgeon *, beluga f, fevruga J, lalmon in plenty, fat-fim , carp, bar- belj), mad, pike, fudak , in fwarms, from the eaft, and fome of the dif- ferent tribes of Goths had, Jince the middle of the 300 NATIONS or THE the third century, penetrated into the weftern regions of the roraan empire j part of the Sauro- mates found themfelves under the neceflity of retiring farther toward the north and the weft. Even at that early period they had the fame po- litical conftitution we (till fee prevalent among them. Each individual of the nation was either ruafter or Have. Thofe who were of diftinclion among them, called themfelves tribes, flaf, and flavne, or noblemen j whence again, all fuch as either were renowned for great achieve- ments, or only capable of performing them, viere afterwards in like manner flyled flavne. Under this denomination it was that they became known to the Europeans, who were not till very lately acquainted with the particular tribes of thofe nations. Thefe tribes had their appel- lation frequently from fome river, town, or dif- tri<3:. So the Polabes were named after the Laba, or Elbe ; Po, in the flavonian and ruf- fian tongues, fignifying near. The Pomeranians dwelt po moru, or near the fea. The Havcl- lanians near the river Havel ; the ; Maroaro, or Moravians, or Marahani, on the banks of llie river Morava. The Varnabi had once their rcfidence near the Varnof, and the Po- lotzani on the fliores of the Polota. In the moun- NATIONS OF Tttfc feMV>IR. 30! mountains * lived the Khrobates ; the Tollen- fians were named after the river Tollenfea, in Pomerania citerior, which empties itfelf into the Peene, near Demmin. From Sidin, or Sedin, the Stettin of the moderns, one tribe was named Sidinians ; another from Britzen f Britzanians ; from Kuflin, a town fubfifting in thofe early times, the KiiTmians took their name, the traces of whom are ftill to be found in a village near Roftock, called Keflen, or Kiffin : and laftly the Ludtzians were named after Loitz, on the river Peine. But there are alfo fome names of thefe tribes which are original ; for example, the Sorbs, or Serbs, the Tfchechs or Bohemians, the Lachs, Lechs, or Polachs, the Poles ; and from the more modern Varagian Roffi, the Ruf- fians, about the year 862, received their name. The ftorm, which, in the train of Attila, from the year 435 to 456, fpread terror and devafta- tion over the earth, was but of fhort duration. In the mean time came the turkifh tribes, which till then had dwelt in great Turkey }, and Tur- kiflan (where is dill fubfifting, on the banks of the Taras, the town of Turkiflan) and efta- blifhed new empires. The empire of the Vlagi, or Volochi, or Vologars, or Volgars, or Bul- * Khrebct. f Treunbritzcn. J i. c. Eukharia the lefs. garians, 302 NATIONS OF- THE EMPIRE. garians, is in like manner called Great Bulgaria, It is fituated beyond the Volga, on the banks of the Kama, of the Bielaia and the Samara : the empire of Borkah or Ardu, of the afconian Turks, extended on this fide of the Volga from Uvieck, near Saratof, quite to mount Caucafus. One part of thefe were called Kumani or Komani, from the river Kuma, and their town was named Kumager *. SECTION I. i. Slavonians. 2. Finnifn nations. No other country throughout the globe contains fuch a mixture and diverfity of inhabitants. Ruffians and Tartars, Germans and Mongoles, Finns and Tungufes, live here at immenfe dif- tances, and in the mod different climates, as fellow-citizens of one (late, amalgamated by their political conftitution, but by bodily frame, lan- guage, religion, manners, and mode of life, diverfified to the moft extraordinary contrafts. It is true, there are fome european countries in which we find more than one nation living under * For more on this fubjed, fee the Hiftory of Difco- veries made in the North, tranflated from the German of Dr. John Reinhold Forfter. the SLAVONIANS. 303 the fame civil conftitution, or where we ftill per- ceive evident traces of the former difference between the primitive and modern inhabit- ants; but in almoft all thefe countries the dominant nation has in a manner fwallowed up the conquered people ; and the individuality of the latter has, in the courfe of fome centuries, by infenfible degrees, been almoft entirely loft. Whereas in Ruffia dwell not only fome, but a whole multitude of diftinct nations ; each of them having its own language, though in fome cafes debafed and corrupted, yet generally fufficient for generic clarification ; each retaining its rag ligion and manners, though political regulations and a more extenfive commerce produce in fome a greater uniformity ; the generality of the main ftems, in fliort, bearing in their bodily ftru&ure, and in the features of their faces, the diftin&ive impreffion of their defcent, which neither time nor commixture with other nations have been able entirely to efface. This extraordinary variety of inhabitants, while it gives great attraction to the ftudy of ruffian ftatiflics, adds Jikewife to its difficulties. Inftructive and interefling as it is to the reflect- ing obferver, to trace the human being through every degree of civilization, in the feveral clafles -of manners, and in all the forms of civil fociety ; yet toilfome and dry is the occupation which muft 304 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. muft neceflarily precede that fatisfaclion : to in- vefligate the origin of thefe ftems in their firft Ihoots, and to difcriminate their gradual progrefs to larger focieties and ftates from the chaos of dark and fabulous times. The united efforts of the numerous inquifitive hiflorians, both foreign and domeftic, who have employed themfelves on thefe fubje&s, have hitherto been able to caft but a feeble light on the origin of the greater part of the nations of the ruffian empire, and the refearches of many of them have been loft in traditions, the romantic obfcurity whereof has 4eft us no hope of arriving at the truth. With- out pretending to furmount thefe difficulties, on which hiftorical fagacity has hitherto been exerted without any remarkable benefit to the knowledge of nations, and the difcuffion of which would lead us too far beyond the bounds we have marked out to our plan, we will merely attempt to arrange the particular refults of the mod competent inquirers into a confident line which may guide us through the labyrinth of the intricate reports of the middle ages, and convey us into the more luminous regions of authentic hiftory. We will trace the exiftence of each nation which we find within the limits of the ruffian territory to its firft hiftorical appearance ; and thefe efforts will enable us to fketch out a genealogical iyftem of the nations that inhabit that SLAVONIANS. 305 that empire. Where hiftory leaves us, we will feek in the analogy of languages means for the claflification of collateral tribes, hoping thus to deduce as complete and regular a view as pof- iible of all the nations of the ruffian north, ac- cording to their real or probable derivation, their moft remarkable events and cataflrophies, their population and the place of their prefent abode *. Befides * For the moft ellablifhed and the moft memorable fals from the antient hiftory of the ruffian nations, It is proper here at fetting out to note the authorities which are chiefly ufed. Thefe are, befides feveral fcattered eflays in larger works or periodical publications, principally the following : Plan of a topographical and phyfical description of the ruffian empire, undertaken by the imperial academy of fciences ; in the St. Peterftmrg Journal, vol. vi. p. 323. Georgi's defcription of all the nations of the ruffian empire. Schlcetzer's general hiftory of the north, or the 3lft vol. of the german univerfal hiftory. Pieces relating to ruffian hiftory, by her majefty the emprefs Catharine II. Schlcet- zer's diflertations on the ruffian annals ( i ). Difiertation fur les anciens Rufles, par Strube de Pyrmont. Kratkoie vedeniye v bytopifiamye vferofl". imp (2). Thunmann's un- terfuchungen ueber die alte gefchichte einiger nordifchen vcelker, Yaanaus pragmatifche gefchichte von Liv. und Ehftland. Muller's fammlung ruffifcher gefchichte. Gat- (1) Tranlhted in the Sele&ions from foreign journals, &c. printed fot Dcbrett, 1797, vol. ii. p. 293 & fqq. (2) By profeflbr Eefack. VOL. i. x terer'a 3o6 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. Befides the Slavonians, to whom the predo* minant nation belongs, there are in the ruffian empire three main national items, whofe ori- ginal identity is hiftorically placed beyond all doubt, and among whom feveral other tribes are to be counted as relative or collateral branches, namely, Finns, Mongoles, and Tar- tars. To thefe may be added the Tungufes ; who, though not a primitive flock, yet are the only one of their race in Ruma. A fixth clafs is formed by thofe nations, with whofe language and hiftory we are Hill too much unacquainted for being able with any degree of certainty to affign them a place in the national fyftem at large ; and this clafiirication is terminated by the difperfed multitudes of european and afiatic nations who have fettled here and there in par- ticular provinces : either as conquerors with vio- lence, or voluntarily and on invitation as colo- nifts : but their number is too inconfiderable for having any pretenfions to be treated of un- der a feparate head. terer's verfuch einer allgemeinen Veltgefchichte. Thun- mann's unterfuchungen ueber die gefchichte der ceftlichen enropaeifchen voelker. Peyfibnel's verfaflung des handels auf dem fchwartzen meer. Pallas fammlung hiftorifcher nach- richten ueber die mongolifchen vcelkerfchaften. Fifcher's fibirifche gefchichte. The travels of the St. Peterftmrg- acadcmicians, &c. i. The SLAVONIANS. 307 I. The SLAVONIAN flock is one of the moft remarkable and moft widely extended in the world. Next to the Arabians, who formerly prevailed from Malacca to Lifbon, there is no people throughout the globe who has diffufed its language, its dominion and its colonies to fo furprifing an extent. From the mores of the Adriatic, northwards as far as the coaft of the Frozen-ocean, and from the mores of the Baltic through the whole length of Europe and Afia, as far as America and to the neighbour- hood of Japan, we every where meet with flavo- nian nations, either dominant or dominated. The origin of this numerous and powerful race is loft in the night of antiquity ; it was perhaps comprifed by the Greeks and Romans under the comprehenfive and indefinite denomination of Scythians and Sarmates *. Poland, Pruflia, Lithuania, and the fouthern parts of Ruflia * In the year 495, the Heruli, being routed by the Longobards, marched through the territories of the Sclavi ; and this is the firft event in which this nation is mentioned in hiilory under that name. Indeed the name "Sclavi appears in the armenian hiftorian Mofes of Chorena, who is com- monly thought to have lived in the middle of the fifth cen- tury, and in the epitomifer of Strabo, probably alfp in Ptolemy ; but the paflages of thefe hiftorians that relate to eur fubjecl deferve a more accurate inveftigation. Jor- nandes and Procopius, two contemporary hifloriana of the fixth century, are the firfl by whom they are diftinftly amed. Scblctfacr. x 2 were Jo8 STATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. were probably the antient feat of the SlavL Hence they fpread themfelves to Dacia, to Ger- many, and to the countries lying beyond the Danube ; thefe regions were the cradle of thofe countlefs fvvarms which over-ran the half of Europe and Afia, or reduced themfelves to fub- jection. Towards the middle of the fourth century all the flavonian races were fubdued by Ermanarik, and incorporated with the Oftrogoths into one government. Soon afterwards both the domi- nant Oftrogoths and the fervile Slavi were ren- dered fubject to the victorious Hunns. A cen- tury had fcarcely elapfed when thefe difturbers of the world were either exterminated on the jane hand by the gothic Gepidi, or on the other driven to the farther iide of the Danube by the finnifli Ungres and Bulgarians. The Slavi be- gan to mew themfelves in Dacia, preffed be- tween the Ungres and the Gepidi, and took up a part of the northern more of the Danube. Here we find them entering, as a peculiar people, among the barbarians who menaced from the north the downfall of the declining roman empire* ; hence they plundered the roinan provinces - r * In order not to leave the curlofity of fome readers en- tirely ungratified, we will here obferve, that the Slavi on the Danube, dariiig a courfe of fcvcral centuries played no infig- mficant SLAVONIANS. 309 provinces ; hence they rufhed like a torrent on the country of the Gepidi, who were almoft entirely extirpated by the Longobards and Avari. The Avari arrogated to themfelves a fort of fo- vereignty over the various flavonian races, and occafionally extorted from them a tribute ; but this people too was at length fwallowed up by the Bulgarians, who now, by thefe acceffions of people, extended themfelves over all Dacia. Forced by their oppreflions, the greater part of the dacian Slavi abandoned their dwellings, and retreated (probably about the middle of the feventh century) from the Danube to the north. Some tribes withdrew to Poland, others to nificant a part among the barbarians, who, by their predatory incurfions accelerated the downfall of the grecian empire. Their firft attacks were made in the time of Juttinian I. about the year 527, but they returned, not long afterwards, to their feats on the northern fide of the Danube, and, not till towards the year 602, began to fettle on the fouthern fide of that river. A cgmplete hiftory of the danubiaiTSlavi, from the year 495 to 1222, is given by Mr. Stritter of Mofco, from the byzantine writers, in his celebrated work : Memorise populorum, olip ad Danubium, pontum euxinuin, paludem mseotidem, Caucafum, mare cafpium, et inde magis ad feptentriones incolentium, e fcriptoribus Hiftoriae Byzan- tinje enitae & digeftae. Whoever finds thefe accounts too dry for bis perufal, may read an entertaining account of the Slavonians of thofe times, and their Jntercourfe with the ftate pf Rome, in the immortal work of Mr. Gibbon. x 3 Ruflia, 3IO NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. Ruffia, and a part of them remained on the Danube. Thus were thefe countries peopled by flavo- nian colonies, who were ever fpreading farther and wider, founding governments in every place, and occafioned the moft fignal revolutions in the north of Europe. All the branches of this grand flock, who have formed peculiar ftates, may be ranged by their prefent condition in feven clafles, that is, into ruffian, polifh, bohe- mian, german, illyrian, hungarian, and turkifh Slavonians. Three of thefe branches we find in the fpacious territory of the modern ruffian empire : the Ruffians, the Poles, and the Ser- vians. i. The aborigenes of -Ruffia were of two races : FINNS and SLAVONIANS. The former poflefled the regions of the Volga and the Duna ; the latter dwelt about the Dniepr and the upper Don. The main feats of the Slavonians were properly in Lithuania and Poland j only one arm of that body extended over the Dniepr. When the danubian Slavi, being cruelly op- preifed by the Bulgarians, fell back to the north, they fpread themfelves farther on the Dniepr, where they conflrucled Kief. One colony of thefe Slavonians penetrated up the Volkhof and laid the foundations of Novgorod. After a dark period SLAVONIANS. 3H period of more than a hundred years,, this latter race again appear amidft the finnifh nations, and at this point of time it was that the ruffian ftate received its origin from the Scandinavians or Northmanni. Shortly after the fettlement of both thefe fla* vonian races on the Volkhof and the Dniepr two hoftile nations arofe and became their op- preflbrs : the Chazares from the Euxine, and the Varagians, Varingians or Northmanni * from the * As the Varagians had fo confiderable a fhare in found- ing the ruffian ftatc, it will perhaps be not unacceptable to find here a compendious view of their pedigree and fortunes > The Norrmanni, who fn Ruffia. were called Varagians or Varingians, were a northern people of gothic defcent, a warlike multitude, compofed of Danes, Swedes, Norwe- gians, who, perpetually in queft of adventures, eftablifhed governments in the weftern and eaftem parts of Europe, and produced revolutions, efpeciaUy in the fouth, the confe- quences whereof extended throughout our quarter of the globe. The firlt trace of their maritime expeditions is dif- coverable about the year 516 ; though it is probable that they carried on their piracies much earlier, and were only comprehended under the name of Franks, who already ap- pear under the emperor Probus as enterprifing mariners. In the year 795, they are firft perceived in Ireland. About the year 813, they began their incurfions by the Elbe, into Frieiland and Flanders ; in procefs of time they proceeded {o Aquitaine and along the Seine j about the year 840* x 4 they. 313 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. the Baltic. Under various turns of fortune, of which but little is known with certainty, both races obtained their independence till the ninth century ; when the Varagians conquered from the Ruffians, a kindred north-gothic people *, the they ravaged France, and in 857, made the conqucft of Luna, and afterwards of Pifa hi Italy. In the year 862, Rurik founded the ruffian monarchy ; about the fame time too, a Norrmann of a fimilar name, Rorich, became famous in the hiftory of Holland. Soon after this, Ofkold and Dir founded another fovereignty at Kief. In the tenth century Ragnvald reigned in Polotfk, from \vhofe daughter Rogned the ruffian annals derive the grand-dukes of Lithuania. About the year 1000, they take Apulia from the Greeks, and Sicily from the Arabians. They gave Normandy its name, after Rollo had wrefted that country from the kings of France. Even the conqueft of England by the Danes, in fome degree forms a part of their hiftory. Allgemeine nord S?fch, p. 220. * The earlieft mention of this name is in the Bertinian Annals, at the year 839, therefore prior to Rurik's recep- tion in Novgorod. Diflert fur les ancitns RuJJes, p. I. However hiftorians may have hitherto differed in opinion concerning the origin of the Ruffi, Ruotzi, or Ruffes, yet at prefent the generality and the moft authentic are agreed in this, that they belong to the varagian race, and therefore \vcre originally Norrmanns or Scandinavians. Thunmann affirms them to be Swedes defcended from Scandinavians, and fpoke the fcandinavian tongue. Unferfuch. ueber die gefch* lk, p. 3-4. The SLAVONIANS. the modern diflricls of Reval, St. Peterfburg, and Archangel, and fubjecled the Slavonians, Krivitfches, Tfchudes, Vefienians, and Meraenes* to The fituation of the antient RyfTaland or Rufsland, may be afcertained by the towns which are mentioned by the chronographers. The Ruffians, for example, poflefled Rotala, which lies in the prefent government of Reval ; Aldenborg (now old-Ladoga) which lies in the government of St. Peterfburg ; Alaborg, which is in the government .of Olonetz ; and Holmgard, (now Kholmogor,) which is in the government of Archangel. Bitopiflaniye, &c. p. 2. * Thefe tribes were partly Slavonians and partly Finns, To the former belong, i . the proper Slavi or Slovenians, \vho dwelt on the lake Ilmen, in the prefent government of Novgorod. Of all the flavonian races which fettled in the prefent territory of Ruflia, this was the only one that re- tained its primitive denomination ; the reft took their appel- lative from the refidences they chofe. Among thofe whq fettled about the Dniepr, and whom we comprehend under the general denomination of Kievian Slavi, fome were called Polaenians (from field, plain; in rufs Pole), others Gora- nians (fromGora, a mountain), Drevlanians (from derevo, a tree, a foreft), Severians (from fever, the north) ; Polot-, fchanians> after the river Polota ; Sulanians, after the river Sula ; Bugfchanians, after the river Bngue, &c. Under the name Slavonians or Slovenians, in Ruffia were only known, thofe who lived about Novgorod. 2. The Kri vitfches, a flavonian ftock, at firft dwelling between the ri- vers Pripet and Dvina, and who afterwards fpread them- felves farther up the rivers Volga, Dvina, Oka, and Dniepr, and 314 NATIONS .OF THE EMPIRE. to a tribute. The Ruffians retired to Finland and Karelia ; but the Slavonians, in conjunction with the reft of the aforenamed nations, drove out the Varagians, and formed themfelves at the lake Ilmen, near Novgorod, into a federative democratical republic. As the defects of this conftitution foon gave occafion to inteftine dif- turbances, the five united nations came to the refolution of calling in the Ruffians to reftore tranquillity to their country, and to give them protection ; in order to which they offered vo- luntarily to refign the fovereignty to them. The and thence obtained their name (from Krivi the upper part). After thefe old flavonian people the Lettifh to this day denominate Ruffia. The region inhabited by the Kri- xitfcbes (now the governments of Polotzk, Smolenfk, and Minfk) fell more recently under the dominion of Lithuanians, and was named thenceforward Lithuanian-Ruffia, Rus Li- teffka. By the polifh partitions of 1773 and 1793, l ^ e ruffian empire got back thefe long-withholden provinces. To the finnim nations belong: i. the Tfchqde*, as the Ruf- fians are wont to call them, and under which the Finns and Efthonians are efpecially implied, who had theij- feats in fome diftri&s of the prefent governments of Pfcove and Reval. 2. The Veffenians, on the Bielo-Ofero, in the dif, tric\ of Novgorod. 3. The Meres or Meraenians, in the parts where are now the governments of Vladimir, Yarpflaf, and Koftroma. Thefe are probably the prefent Mord-i vines, ruffiau SLAVONIANS. 315 ruffian prince Rurik, with his brothers Sineus and Truvor, accepted the invitation. Rurik collected all his people together, came in the year 862 to the mouth of the Volkhof, and took upon him the government of the new- erefted ftate, \vhich from the very firfl com- prifed fix feveral tribes, flavonian, finnifh, and varagian, extending over the regions of the prefent governments of Riga, Reval, Polotfk, Pfcove, Viborg, St. Petersburg, Novgorod, Smo- lenik, Olonetz, Archangel, Vladimir, Yaroflaf, Koflroma, and Vologda. Though the Varagians compofed the predomi- nant, and under Rurik the moft confequential part of the people, (which is principally proved from this circumftance, that in the hiflory of his time only varagian names are mentioned,) yet Slavonians and Ruffians were foon blended into one nation ; and though the name of the latter \vas transferred to the whole nation, yet the fla- vonian language and manners retained the fupe- riority, as that people were confidered as the predominant part both in numbers and in civili- zation. Rurik, the proper founder of the flavonian ftate, immediately took up his refidence at Staraya Ladoga, and ftyled himfelf grand-prince, thereby to 316 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE, to denote his fupremacy over the ftfbordinate princes. By a kind of patrimonial conftitution the grand.princes had the right of granting to their fons or younger brothers diftincl princi, palities. This right Rurik, as the eldefl, exer- cifed with his two brothers. Sineus received Bielo-Ofero, and Truvor Ifborfk, for their re- fidences, as chief towns of dependent countries. Both died childlefs one fhortly after the other ; Rurik reunited their territories with his own ; and, in the fourth year of his reign, removed his refidence from Old Ladoga to Novgorod, which from that time forward became the capital of the ruffian monarchy. Scarcely had RURIK elevated himfelf fole* ruler of the novgorodian flate, when the Slavo- nians dwelling on the Dniepr, being opprefled by the Chazares, applied to Rurik, requefting him to give them a prince of his race to rule over them. Rurik fent them his flepfon Ofkold, who fubdued the Chazares, and founded at Kief the fecond flavo-ruffian dominion, depend- ent on the novgorodian empire. The progrefe of the ruffian monarchy is fa fertile in great events, and runs fo deeply into the hiftory of .the neighbouring nations, that the relation SLAVONIANS. 317 Delation of them can be no object of this hifto- rical Iketch. We will therefore purfue the chief nation alone in the moft memorable periods of its hiftory, in order to enable us to fee at one view the gradual courfe of the formation and enlargement of the prefent extenfive and power- ful empire of Ruffia. OLEG, the immediate fuccefibr of Rurik, who reigned as guardian of his nephew Igor, united Kief, which would now no longer acknowledge the fupremacy of the novgorodian grand-princes, completely with the ruffian territory, and ele- vated this fecond flavonian family-feat, to be his refidence and the capital of the country. Under thefe and the following reigns the power of the empire was rapidly increafmg. Ruffian armies appeared before the gates of Conftanti- nople ; a multitude of nations were rendered tributary ; the Ruffians carried on a regular commerce to the coafts of the Euxine; they built cities, embellifhed and gave laws to fuch as were already in being. On the death of VLADIMIR the great, in 1015, who embraced the chriftian religion, and introduced it into Ruffia, this hafty progrefs of the nation was checked by the partition of the ftate among his twelve fons. This 31 8 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. This pernicious policy, which was even con- tinued by his fucceffors *, had for its confe- * The grand-princes, as patrimonial lords of the country, granted to their fons, younger brethren, and other relations, diltinft principalities ; and this not only in their life -time, but even by teftamentary bequefts. The feveral princes- were bound to do homage to the grand-prince, as their father or elder brother, and were his principal vaflals. The grand-prince had the right to refume the principalities which he had bellowed, and to tranflate thtfe his vaflals, efpecially when they were his fons, from one principality to another. Upon the deceafe of the grand-prince, from whom a diftinft prince had received his principality, it became hereditary, and was regarded as the patrimony of the prince and his family ; by which means every feparate prince acquired nearly as much power in his territory, as the grand-prince had in- the grand-principality. After the death of Igor or George I. in 1157, the princes of Vladimir, on the Kliafma, emancipated themfelves entirely from the fupremacy of the grand- princes of Kief, and thereupon afTumed the title of grand-princes. This example was foon followed by the princes of Vladimir on the Bogue, Galitfch on the Dnieftr, Smolenfk, and Tfchernigof ; and from the time of Yaroflaf II. who died in 1246, the fame was done by all the feparate princes who had received the patent of their principalities from the tartarian khans. Simeon the proud, however, who died in 1353, made his brothers not only vaflals, but fubje&s : Dmitri Donfkoi publicly required all the ruffian princes to pay him unconditional obedience j his fon Vaffilly forced the princes of Sufdal and Nifhney- Novgorod to unlimited fubmifllon, and Ivan I. at length reftored the complete forercignty and indivifibility of the empire. quences SLAVONIANS. 319 quences devaluation and war. Ruffians took up arms againft Ruffians, brethren againft brethren ; and amidft thefe bloody contentions, which were ftill the more definitive as either party ftrove to ftrengthen itfelf by calling in the aid of fo- reigners, arofe a third powerful flate : White Ruflia or Vladimir. Ruflia had now three independent grand- principalities within its borders, befides feveral fmaller flates arifen by partitioned lines. Vladi- mir was the mod powerful of them, and its fo- vereign was confidered, during the following period of the tartarian oppreffion, as the proper and only grand-prince of Ruflia. At firfl Sufdal was the refidence of this flate, afterwards Vladimir, and at length this honour fell to the lot of Mofco, whjch city George I. had founded in the year 1147. Vladimir, as well as Kief and Novgo- rod, which latter grand principality had adopted a fort of monarchic-republican form of govern- ment, maintained an uncertain and often con- troverted fupremacy over the fmaller prin- cipalities, of which feveral from time to time had fprung up, and which, unmindful of their common lineage from the houfe of Rurik, lived in a flate of perpetual warfare. This flate of the nation mufl have greatly fa- cilitated the means of its fubjugation to any fo- reign ^20 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. reign enemy ; how much more to a wild and warlike nation, which, by the magnitude and rapidity of its conquefts, was already become formidable to all Afnu Mongoles and Tartars, who, under their khan Tfchingis at the begin- ning of the thirteenth century had united them- felves into a powerful ftate, and had brought into fubjection the greater part of Afia, now, in 1237, under the conduct of his descendant Batu, khan of Kaptfchak, fell upon the fouthern Ruflia, where, after repeated predatory incur- fions, they founded a formal fovereignty. Kiet fell firft (1240) under their power; the grand- prince of Vladimir did homage to the khan of Kaptlchak, and the le.Ter princes voluntarily fol- lowed his example. The Tartars now flackened their conquefts, in order to turn them to greater advantage : they numbered the people in the principalities, impofed on them a heavy tribute, and thus riveted the oppreffive yoke of foreign fovereignty which the Ruffians bore for upwards of two hundred years. During this melancholy period, the grand- prince of Novgorod, Alexander, honoured with the furname of Neffky, made himfelf famous by the victory which he obtained over the Swedes on the banks of the Neva, and another in Livonia ( 1 250) over the knights of the Teutonic 4 order. SLAVONIANS. 321 order. On the other hand Kief was loft to the ruffian territory ( 1 320) with the greater part of fouthern Ruffia, and foil to Gedimin, the heroic grand- prince of Lithuania, who ravilhed this beautiful fpoil from the Tartars. Smolenfk, Polotfk, Tur, and Vitebfk, had already fallen under that fupre- macy. Vladimir, the capital whereof in 1328 was transferred to Mofco, continued, notwith- ftanding its being a fief to the Tartars, to be the mightieft of all the principalities ; and the free- ftate of Novgorod, which was fecured by its dif- tance from the oppreffions of the Tartars, was growing rich amidft the general calamity, by commerce, and even fpread its conquefts north- wards over feveral neighbouring regions. The partition of the ruffian empire, and the general confederation of the mongole-tartar nations were the caufes that co-operated to the fubjugation of Ruflia ; an oppofite mode of con- duel: liberated the Ruffians, and caft the yoke which they had fo long borne back upon the necks of their former conquerors. Oppreffion and defpair at length combined the ruffian princes in one common fentiment : feveral of the tartar hordes had made themfelves independent, and internal difturbances and bloody contefts com- pleted the ruin of others. Such was the fituation of things, when Ivan I. in 1462, afcended the throne at Mofco. This VOL, i. Y grand- 322 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. grand-principality had, even under the preffur* of foreign fupremacy, colle&ed force for oppo- fition. The principalities of Sufdal and Niflmey- Novgorod were already in union- r with it : the princes of Pfcove and Tver acknowledged it paramount, and the republic of Novgorod at leaft did not refufe its fubmiffion. Thefe means and the perfonal character of Ivan decided his brilliant lot ; that of being the reftorer of the independence of his country, and the founder of the new ruffian monarchy. Ivan had reigned fourteen years, when he rc- fufed obedience to the Tartars, and juftified this daring flep by vi&ories which gained him the Tartarian kingdom of Kazan, and made its fove* reign his tributary vaiTal. The republic of Nov- gorod, which ftrove to maintain its independency under lithuanian protection, fubmitted in 1477 to the force of his arms. A fimilar fortune befel the principalities of Pfcove and Tver. .Lithuania loft a confiderable part of its territory. The princes of Severia voluntarily fubmitted. The teutonic order in Livonia alone withftood the increafing power of Ivan. Under his fuccefibr, indeed, the rifmg mo- narchy loft for a fhort time the kingdom of Kazan, but in return Smolenfk was incorporated again into the ruffian ftate. Ivan II. at length burft the laft fhackles s of the mongole-tartarian fove- reignty, SLAVONIANS* reignty. The entire conquefl of the kingdom of Kazan was completed in feven years; the capital of it furrendering in 1552. Two years afterwards Aftrakhan became a ruffian province. Hence Ivan prefied forward into Caucafus and fubdued the whole Kabardey. On the other hand, his plans of conqueft were fruftrated in Livonia, which he was forced to relinquifh after a conteft of twenty years attended with number- lefs cruelties. The ofmanian Turks, in conjunc- tion with the Tartars of the Krim, fell upon Ruflia and ravaged its capital; but thefe dif- afters were greatly overbalanced by the opening of a channel for commerce by fea by way of Archangel, and by the conqueft of Siberia, which date their commencement from the reigu of Ivan, and were flowly but firmly completed under his fuccefibrs* . By this conqueft, for which Ruflia is indebted to- a bold and fuccefsful robber, the monarchy extended its dominion over an immenfe tract of country, rich in the nobleft productions of nature, and inhabited by a multitude of nations till then unknown. Ivan's fucceflbr, Feodor, abandoned his claim to Efthonia, and obtained in return from Sweden a fecurity to his poflemons of Ingria and Karelia. By Feeder's death in 1598, the dynafty of Rurik was extinct. During the interim till the Y 2 election NATIONS Of THE EMPIRE. eledlion of a new tzar of the houfe of Romanof in 1613, the empire was a prey to confufion and defolation. The well-known events of the pre- tenders under the name of Demetrius had im- plicated the Poles and Swedes in the internal affairs of Ruflia ; and Mikhaila Romanof could only by large facrifices purchafe the repofe of his empire. lie was obliged to relinquifh Ingria and Karelia to the Swedes, and Smolenfk, Severia, and Tfchernigof to the Poles. This was however the laft misfortune that diminimed the power of the ruffian empire. From that period to the prefent day, Ruffia has not only been regaining its antient pofieffions, but fo far extended and enlarged them, that the prefent circumference of the empire knows of no parallel in the hiftory of the world. Alexey, the fucceflbr of Mikhaila, not only reconquered the countries relinquished by his father to the Poles, but reduced alfo Kief and the Ukraine on the eaftern fide of the Dniepr, in 1655, to a reunion with the parent-ftate of the flavo-ruffian nation. His fon, the im- mortal Peter I. the creator of modern ruflia, acquired to his empire in 1721, by a twenty years war with Sweden, the provinces on the mores of the Baltic, which had been for fo many centuries the fource of bloody contentions among the northern powers : Livonia, Efthonia, Ingria, SLAVONIANS. 325 Ingria, and a part of Kexholm and Karelia, were fubjefted to the ruffian fceptre, and procured to the empire, befides incalculable advantages to commerce, a firm and refpeftable footing among the chief european powers. A fecond acqui- fition of the perfian provinces of Dagheftan, Shir- van, Ghilan, Mazanderan, and Aflrabat,was, after thirteen years poffeffion, voluntarily abandoned. Catharine II. brought aggrandizement to Ruflia within and without by a reform of its govern- ment, and feveral fuccefsful wars. She obtained from the porte, by the peace of Kutfhuk-Kain- ardgi in 1774 the pofieffion of the city of Azof, with the territory belonging to it ; and for the fecurity of the ruffian navigation on the Euxine, the forts of Kinburn, Kertfch, and Yenicaly in the peninfula of the Krimea. A few years later, (1783,) the whole provinces fimply by a treaty became a ruffian government ; and in its prefent denomination the antient name of the Tauridan Cherfonefe is reftored. In virtue of the fame convention Ruffia enlarged her bor- ders to the fouth by the Kuban, where now the caucafian mountains form the boundary of the ruffian dominion. In a fecond attempt to abate the preponderant power of Ruffia, the porte once more fubmitted, and was obliged to pay for the unfortunate termination of the quarrel Y 3 by 326 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. by the furrender of a confiderable traft of coun* try on the fhores of the Euxine, between the Bogue and the Dnieftr. On the other fide wretched Poland, by a furprifing viciflitude of fortune, paid dearly for the injuries which Ruflia had formerly fuftained from this once powerful ftate. In the famous partition which firft re- duced the national imbecility and political nul- lity of this republic to an almoft incredible proof, Catharine obtained for her mare in 1773 the- four lithuanian voivodefliips of Smolenfk, Vitepfk, Mftiflaf, and polifh Livonia, with a part of the voivodelhips of Polotlk and Minfk, The Jate and fudden attempts, through favour of tem- porary circumftances, to withdraw from under the ruffian influence, and to reftore the fuffi- ciency of the nation by a new conftitution, involved the exhaufted republic in an unpro- fperous war, which ended (1793) in the lofs of the fine and fertile provinces of the Lefler Po- land and Lithuania. The laft and defperate ex- ertion of the Poles was at length attended by the total difmemberment of the country ; the capital of the kingdom fell into the hands of the Ruf- fians ; the political exiftence of the republic was annihilated, and the laft vefliges of it were loft (1796) in the confines of the bordering ftates. One confequence of the annihilation of Po- land SLAVONIANS. 327 land was the acquisition of the duchies of Cour- land and Semigallia, including the circle of Pil- ten, which on the diflblution of their feudal connexion with the republic, by a refolution of the eftates of the country, fubmitted themfelves unconditionally in 1795, to the fceptre of the emprefs *. While Catharine the fecond was augmenting the power of her empire on one fide by con- quefts and treaties, me ftrove on the other to promote the fame object by the mild authority of her laws, and the methods of civilization. Compelled by the exigences of his fituaion, the mightieft of the princes of Caucafus, the tzar of Kartuelia and Kakhetty put himfelf under the * According to an authentic eftimate, publifhed in 1796, by Major Oppermann, the acquifitions made during the reign of Catharine II. are thus given : Square verfh. Inhabitants of At the firft partition of Poland both fexes. in J773 ?655 8 1,226,966 From the porte in the years 1774 and 1783 113,100 171,610 From the porte in the year 1791 23,053 42,708 At the fecond partition of Po- land, 1793 202,383 3,745,663 By the fubjetlion of Conrland - 16,273 387,922 At the third partition of Poland, '795 94' 6 45 1,407,402 Total 526,012 6,982,271 y 4 protection 328 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. prote&ion of the ruffian empire, by acknow- ledging in 1783 the fupremacy of its monarch. Catharine invited people from all countries to come and fettle in her dominions, and thus eftab- lifhed numerous colonies. She reduced a multi- tude of tributary nations dwelling in the heart of Siberia to a complete fubmiffion to her laws. She fet on foot and encouraged feveral voyages of difcovery, which obtained for the ruffian em- pire a new fovereignty in the eaflern ocean, and on the weftern coaft of America. It appears, then, from the concurrent teftimo- nies of hiftory, language, and phyfiognomy, that the Ruffians are of flavonian origin, and confequently are related to the Poles, the Bo- hemians, the Slavonians, and other nations of the north. At the time of the great emigra- tions from the eaft, in the fifth century of the vulgar sera, being difturbed in their abode on the Danube by the Bulgarians and Valakhians, they difperfed themfelves various ways ; fome marching to the Dniepr, where they built Kief, others bending their courfe to the Volkhof that flows into the Ladoga lake, and there laid the foundations of Novgorod. The latter colony fell under the fway of the Varages j by whom they were named Ruffi^nd their country Ruffia or Roflia, which appellation they adopted them- felves. SLAVONIANS. 329 (elves. Both the flavonian colonies were de- mocracies ; but their regent Rurik, in the year 862, made them a monarchy, which foon ex- tended its limits far and wide. Towards the clofe of the tenth century, Vladimir introduced the ceremonies of the greek religion, to which he made thofe of the pagan give place. The fubfequent partition of the empire among feve- ral princes was favourable to the incurfions of the Tartars ; and the thirteenth century faw Ruffia in fubjection to Baaty, the khan of the Golden Horde, and his defcendants, and Kief fubmiffive to the yoke of the Poles. In the latter half of the fifteenth century the grand duke Ivan Vaffillievitch the firft very much curb- ed the Tartars ; and about the middle of the fixteenth century Ivan Vaffillievitch the fecond overturned the tartarian empire, and made its kingdoms of Kafan and Aftrakhan tributary to his fceptre. He extended the boundaries of his dominion to the foot of the caucafean moun- tains. In the year 1578, the conqueft of Siberia was begun under the aufpices of the grand duke Feodor Ivanovitch, by the don-kofak Yermak Ti- mofyef, which was continued during the following reigns in the feventeenth century to the fhores of the eaftern ocean and the banks of the Amoor. With 330 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. Wilh the oommencement of the prefent cen- tury, Peter the great began to reform the political and moral condition of his empire, made difco- reries in the northern and eaflern oceans, by which he enlarged his dominion almofl to Japan and the american mores, and extended the boundaries of the empire towards Sweden and Perfia. It was referred for Catharine the fecond to profecute the plans of Peter ; to extend the limits of the empire towards Poland ; to give efficacy to the moral improvement, the profpe- rity and the happinefs of the people ; and by \vh-olefome laws, by the inftitution of feminaries of teaming, to tranfmit the energy and the glory of her reign to future generations. We have already feen the prodigious extent of the empire. But notwithflanding the great difperfion, and the confequent diverfity of coun- tries, climates, and fituations, the people have far more refemblance in point of perfon and manners than thofe of different nations in fmaller ftates. Ruffians about Novgorod, Aftrakhan, Archangel, Tobolfk, Yakutfk, are not fo differ- ent as Germans from the various circles of that lefs extenfive empire. The uniform, fimple, na- tural mode of life, a mind exempt from care, and a fameuefs of religion, particularly from .their SLAVONIANS. 33! their influence on the diet, feem to be the prin- cipal caufes of this little alteration. The ruffian language is an improved dialect of the flavonian, which, with its characters, is ilill in ufe in the offices of religion. The ruf- fian alphabet has 41 letters, whereof fome are only notes of accent in pronunciation. The language is rich in words, foft, expreffive, and requires great pliancy in the organs of utter- ance. Seminaries have been founded of old in the epifcopal feats ; gymnafiums and the uni- verfities of Kief and Mofco are foundations of great antiquity. There was, however, a defi- ciency in fchools ; and therefore the late emprefs was conftantly adding to their number. Befides thefe, here are inftitutions for the education of the military and the nobility, and for young ladies of quality ; an academy alfo of fciences, and another for the ftudy of the arts, which were entirely re-erected on a magnificent plan by Catharine II. to whofe munificence likewife the nation is indebted for the eftablifhment of an academy for the improvement of rural eco- nomy, and a fociety for the cultivation of the ruffian language. In all the feveral inftitutions for the purpofes of educatipn throughout the empire, the pupils are found in every necelTary article. 3J2 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. article, fuch as board, lodging, food raiment, \vafhing, &c. and are dependent on the found- ation. Accordingly the entrance into thefe fchools is accounted a fervice rendered to the country j and in reckoning the years of fervice, in order to promotion in rank, the years of at- tendance at fchool are always included. The native Ruffians are of different flature; fome are very tall, but few much below the ufual height ; feveral of them are remarkably ftrong limbed, in general they are lean, but well built. Thofe deformities which in other parts of Europe are moflly owing to the refinements of luxury introduced into education, are here but rarely feen : their mouth and eyes are fmall, the lips thin, the teeth even and beautiful, the nofe, as every where, various, in general not large nor very aquiline ; the forehead frequently low, and their afpect rather grave : the beard is ftrong and bufhy, their hair lank, brown, flaxen, or red, feldom or never entirely black : in fight and hearing they are uncommonly acute : the organs of feeling, fmell, and tafte, are hardened, like all the reft of their body, by the rudenefs of climate, and their manner of life. They are moftly of a fanguine choleric tempe- ra^nent, and vice verfa, with a greater or left mixture SLAVONIANS. 333 mixture of the melancholic, feldom of the phlegmatic, ftill feldomer merely melancholic or phlegmatic: in gait and action they are brifk, lively, and agile. The complexion of the females is brunette, with a fine ikin ; many of them extremely hand- fome. As not any reftraint is put upon their growth, their breads and feet are large ; the former far more full than thofe of the tartar women. Girls generally arrive early at matu- rity, numbers in their 1 2th or i 3th year j but many of them lofe all their beauty, after being married but a couple of years. The frequent ufe of the hot-bath promotes an early develope- ment, and as early a decay ; and the hideous practice of painting fpoils the Ikin. As the women, among the lower flations in general are kept on harder fare, and more accuflomed to work than the girls, they are alfo more negli- gent of their perfons. The general difpofition of the people is gay, carelefs even to levity, much addicted to fenfu- ality, quick in comprehending whatever is pro- pofed, and not lefs prompt in its execution j in- genious in rinding out means of abridging their work ; in all their occupations ready, alert, and dexterous. Violent in their paflions, they eafily miftake the golden mean, and not unfrequently rufh 334 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. rufh into the contrary extreme. They are at- tentive, refolute, bold, and enterprifmg. To trade and barter they have an irrefiftible im- pulfe. They are hofpitable and liberal, fre- quently to their own impoverifhment. Anxious follicitudes about the future here caufe but few grey pates. In their intercourfe with others, they are friendly, jovial, complaifant, very ready to oblige, not envious, flanderous, or cenfori- ous, and much given to fecrecy. From their natural and fimple way of life, their wants are few, and thofe eafily fatisfied, leaving them leifure for recreations and repofe ; and the con- flant cheerfulnefs of their temper frees them from troublefome projects, procures them fatif- faftion in all fituations, keeps them healthy and flrong, and brings them to an undifquieted, con- tented, brifk, fometimes a very advanced old age. The nation chiefly confifts of the nobility and peafantry ; but we may alfo admit the burgefles, a clafs which was conftantly more and more raifed and encouraged by the late fovereign ; to which may be added the kozaks as another order. The nobility is compofed of princes*, noblemen, or boyars ; and, in later times, of princes of the roman empire, counts, and ba- rons. The nobles may be proprietors "of land and people, and hold the higheft offices in the * Kni'afi. 6 civil SLAVONIANS. 335 civil and military departments. The dvorianini are in a manner city-nobles, though not properly to be compared with the patricians of the cities of Germany. Odnodvortzi are the loweft clafs of noblefle, fomewhat fimilar to the body-guards in Poland. The burgher ftate, yeomanry, or common- alty, to give it fomewhat of an englifh term, though neither of them will properly exprefs it, is compofed of the Poflatfid and Rafnotmintzi, who live in towns and villages, governed by their proper magiftrates, whether as merchants or tradefmen. They are excluded from offices and pofts of fervice or honour, furnifli head- money and recruits, but cannot be vafTals. By the uncontrolled freedom of trade that is en- joyed in this country, whereby any man may now follow one calling and then another, and not conftantly adhere to either, merchants and handicraftfmen oftentimes live by agriculture alone, while boors fubfift by trade and bufmefs. It is not ufual for the latter to employ journeymen and apprentices, but only workmen and labour- ers. However, this clafs is fo totally diilimilar from any order of men in our own or other countries, that a more circumftantial account of it is not here to be expected, but will more properly find a place in the following book. By 336 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. By an edift of the year 1775, the merchants pay annually at the rate of one per cent, on their capital in lieu of the capitation tax, and are alfo allowed to pay money inftead of the recruits they are bound to furnilh ; by which this rank has been greatly raifed. Of the peafantry, fuch as belong to the crown and the monafteries pay taxes accord- ing to the laws of the land, and are liable to the other duties impofed by the fame autho- rity ; but they may be made over to particulars as donatives from the crown. Noble boors, as they are called, are the vaflals of their lord, on whofe arbitrary difpofal they entirely depend, and according to the temper and difpofition of whom, they are either treated with harfhnefs or humanity ; fuch as are happy enough to belong to kind and generous matters generally live comfortably enough, and fome of them fre- quently get rich. From all of them fuch as are fit to be made foldiers are taken by lot as re- cruits. The peafantry are not bound to follow agriculture, the breeding of cattle, and the other employments of "huibandry, but may flrike into trade and purfue it either alone or in conjunc- tion with their rural concerns, as they find it uioft beneficial or convenient.' The SLAVONIANS. 337 The kozaks form a particular clafs originating from the peafantry. They live, exempt from taxes, in villages, forts, and petty towns, on the produce of their fields and paftures or the labour of their hands, furniih no recruits, are not given away as ferfs, and enjoy other privileges. But they all ferve as light horfemen, as early and as long as they are fit for it, providing themfelves with horfes^ clothes, and accoutrements, and only receive pay when they are in actual fervice ; of them, however, I mail fpeak more at large hereafter. The trades carried on by the Ruffians are in general the fame as are exercifed in the other parts of Europe. The inland commerce feems but fmall, as it is moftly conducted by fhopkeepers and mono- polizers, and the chief tranfport of goods by land is in caravans j it is neverthelefs of great importance, by giving employment and fuftenance to an innumerable body of people, by the great vent it procures for the products of nature and art, and by keeping the fpecie of the country in a conflant and quick circulation. The petty merchants carry on their bufinefs by travelling from place to place about the country ; and, therefore, on all occafions make fpeedy and frequent returns of their money. By their frugal manner of living, and by the hofpitality VOL. ju z of 338 NATIONS- OF THE EMPIRE* of the boors which every where prevails, the con- fumption even on long journies is but fmall ; and thus it frequently happens that an apparently in- fignificant, unproductive traffic maintains and often enriches a number of families. Formerly all traffic was confined to the annual fairs. The merchants attended them with the commodities they had to difpofe of, and bought with the money they got for them, or bartered them againft, the products of thofe parts. For a long time part, eve'ry city, every town *, and many great villages, has its regular market, retaining at the fame time its annual fairs. The market- places throughout the empire are, in their mode of construction uniformly the fame : a quadran- gular building of timber or brick, divided into fhops, with a piazza before them for the conve- niency of cuftomers in all kinds of weather. This frequently fpacioos and handfome ft.ru fture, which, on account of the foreigners that fome- times hire fhops in them, are called guefl-courts f, and in regard to its ufes, the buying or bartering- place, and where alone, and not in private houfes, articles of trade may be fold, is ufually built by the government or the magiftracy of the place. At Irbit in Siberia, at Ekatarinen- * Slobcda. f Goilinoi dvor. burg, SLAVONIANS. 339 burg, and above all in the monaftery of Maka- rief on the banks of the Volga, near Nilhncy- Novgorod, yearly fairs are held, which, for the amount of the turns and returns, may vie with the mod noted in Europe. The foreign commerce, till about the clofe of the fifteenth century, was but trifling, and almoft wholly confined to Novgorod, which belonged to the hanfeatic league. The Ruffians were unac- quainted with their own products ; and, living as they did, in the native fimplicity of the chil- dren of nature, they had little occafion for articles from abroad. By imperceptible degrees the products of the country were underftood and explored ; and the introduction of a more re- fined mode of living occafioned a demand for foreign commodities. Under Peter the great, manufactories got up ; the working of mines and all kinds of trade went on in a thriving Hate ; and commercial regulations, duties, &c. gave commerce a proper direction, and fecured the balance in their favour. It is a general practice with the merchants of Ruffia to be paid half of the price beforehand of the inland commg- dities which they buy up and deliver to foreigners, according to contract, for exportation j but to take foreign goods upon a year's credit. Fo- reigners therefore only gain when all goes right, j z 2 but *40 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE, but the Ruffians always, let matters take what courfe they will. For which reafon they will- ingly refign to- foreigners the profits accruing from the tranfport, and have themfelves but fe\v (hips at fea. The mod confiderable maritime commerce, as we have already feen, is at St. Feterfburg and Riga, by way of the Baltic ; at -Archangel, on the northern ocean, &c. at Taganrok, on the Euxine ; at Aftrakhan on the Cafpian, and at Kamtfhatka, on the Eaftern- ocean. The principal feats of the foreign com- merce by land are the Ukraine, whence the ruffian merchants vifit the markets of Poland and the fairs of Germany ; Orenburg, where a confiderable trade is carried on with feveral afiatic nations : and Kiachta in Dauria, where a great mercantile intercourfe is held with China. Manufactories of wool, cotton, filk, flax, raetals, &c. paper-mills, wax-bleacheries, falt- petre and glafs-houfes, tapeftry, and porcelain fabrics, with many other eftabHmments of a like nature, partly belonging to the crown, but moftly to private perfons, and efpecially the working of mines, employ an rmmenfe number of people, as well as artifts and tradefmen, both in, town and country. The products of thefe manufactories yield in no refpeft to the belt of SLAVONIANS. 34! of other countries ; which however cannot al- ways be affirmed of the works of the ruffian artizans. As -the free countrymen piy a tax not only for their fields, but alfo for their heads, they follow hufbaudry with that licence I mentioned before ; and many of them neglect it entirely in order to devote themfelves to trade and bu- finefs. The vaflal-boors are employed, at the pleafure of their lord, either in country or city occupations, in manufactories and fabrics, the handicraft trades, .or the mines. Agriculture, therefore, is not fo generally the buftnefs cf the peafantry in Ruffia as in other countries.. How- ever, on the whole k is .carried on to fo great an extent, as not only to furnifh the nations of the empire that eat bread with that article, and the prodigious quantities of corn, at a very moderate price, confumed by the brandy-diftil- leries ; bj.it alfo can export a great fuperfluity to foreign countries. Even from the 55th to the 6oth deg. of north lat, in Siberia., are large tracts of arable land, moflly fertile, good crops of hay, and fpacious forefti. More to the north, culti- vation is lefs to be depended on, and the whole fyftem of rural ceconomy is very liable to failures, and attended with great difficulties. Through- out Ruffia every village has its proper territory, z 3 and 342 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. and every eftate its allotted inclofures and com- mons *. In the lefs cultivated plains of Siberia, every man takes as much ground from the open fleppes as he can manage. When fuch a por- tion of ground is exhaufted, the countryman lets it lie fallow for a year or two, goes and turns up another piece, and fo proceeds. Fre- quently thefe little flrips of ground lie fcattered at 20, 50, and ven So verfts diftance from the village. The fize of thefe fields is meafured eaftwardsf, each of which being 60 fathom long and 40 wide ; but in fome parts, and all over the Ukraine, they are 80 fathom in length and 40 in bieadth. In Ruflia and Siberia they cultivate winter lye and fummer rye J, winter-wheat only in Ruflia as far as the Kama, fnmmer-wheat both in Ruflia and Siberia; bailey ||, fpelt-barley, or bear-barley J, plentifully in Ruffia ; oats 0, in Ruffia and Siberia ; few peafe, ftill fewer vetches and beans ; a great deal of buck-wheat ; in Siberia tartarian buck-wheat SLAVONIANS. 59 1 The Kozaks, by reafon of their federal con- {titiition, military and civil, form a diftinft part and clafs of the nation. This conftituuoH they obtained after the demolition of the tartarian empire, when the government appointed them the guardians of the new frontiers, and allotted certain diftricls of the country for their fupport. They had their name from the tartarian Kozaks, which confided of a band of refractory people. At prefent they are the irregular and country- troops, and are compofed of various, diftinft, coniiderable, bands or regiments. Kozaks, efpccially umler the reign of Ivan 1. in whofe time there were Qrdmjko'i (from the great Orda or Horde, the chief feat of the Tartars on the Volga) and Axofftoi Kozaks. Thefe two branches are to be confidered as the laft remains of the tartarian fovereignty in Ruflia, and even thefe are either exterminated by the Ruffians, or have thcm- felvcs difperfed, and united with other tartarian nations. In their ftead arofe the Don-froze.};*, who, notwithstanding this connection and the apparent analogy of their manner of life, political regimen, and features of face, are geouine Ruffians, as their language and religion eviiice. Had they been converted to the latter, the ruffian annul ills, who care- fully take notice of every eonverfion, would certainly not have pafled it over in lilcnce. Sammlung, ni/.gejlb. vol. iv. Compare with HupeVs nord. ml/cell, part 24 and 25. Annalet de la Petite RnJJie, par Scherer. Georgi's dcfcriptwn of all the jiativns of the ruffian empire. c c 4 The 39* NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. The internal conftitution of the feveral Ko- zaks, though in complete fubordination to the ruffian fupremacy, vvhofe fubje&s they are in the ftrideft fenfe of the word, is at once military and democratic ; with the Malo-rumans the mili- tary eftablifliment is more regular. The Ko- zaks have no nobility, confequently no vaifals ; all are brethren, and may reciprocally command and obey, without reproach or farther confe- quence. They eleft their fqperiors from their own body, reduce them again to the common level, and choofe others in their ftead : the com. mander in chief alone is appointed by the go- vernment, whofe concurrence is alfo neceflary to his being depofed. All the commanders are in conflant pay of the crown ; but the common Kozaks only when in fervice. They are obliged always to clothe themfelves at their own ex- pence, (the fiberian Kozaks excepted) to pro- vide themfelves with horfes and arms ; confe- quently, at all times to be completely ready to march : while in actual fervice each common man receives the munition and the pay of a foldier, 1 2 rubles per annum ; the pay of the officers is in proportion. They enlift their young people into the fervice at the age of 1 8, and give them their difcharge when turned of 50. Their SLAVONIANS. 393 Their commanders, as countrymen, are called in the villages elders, or aldermen *, and over towns and diftricts, attamans, corruptly het- mans. As militia, they have fubaltern officers over tens and fifties t ; captains over hundreds } ; enfigns ; fcribes || ; adjutants J 1 ; and every re- giment 9, which, according to the extent of the diftricl:, is from 1000 to 3000 men ftrong, has a general-officer ; but the whole divifion or clafs of the Kozaks is under the command of a generaliffimo p. All the officers, up to the atta- man, are without rank, and may be under the fubalterns of the army. In the two laft turkifh wars, however, all the officers of fome regi- ments, and of others fuch as diftinguimed them- felves by their bravery and conduct, obtained the rank of officers of the regular militia. Since that time they have feveral attamans, and others, who are ftaff-officers. The obedience of the common men towards their fuperiors, efpecially when they are at home, is very trifling, and re- gards more the circumflances of fortune, and the confidence they have in their commander, than the poft he fills. The officers, however, may punifli petty offences by pecuniary mulcts * Starfluni. f Dcfiatniki and piaetidefetniki. $ Sotniki. Chorunfhi. j] Piflari. X Yeffauli. Polk. | Voiflcovoi attaman. p Glavnoi atfaraan. to 394 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. to the regiment-box, by difgrace, or by the f^ourge. ' Befides an exemption from the capitation-tax, the Kozaks enjoy feveral other privileges, accord- ing to circumftances, in their particular diftricls ; fuch as, the liberty to fim, to hunt, to get their fait from the lakes, to diftil brandy, &c. without paying for it. This maintains their families, when they are in the field ; and, in long intervals of peace, enriches the induftrious. Every Kozak muft keep two horfes, when in fervice, and clothe himfelf in the polifh or oriental fafhion, but the quality and colour of his drefs is left to his own choice ; therefore, on mufter- ing-days they make a motley appeal ance. Their weapons are : a lance, headed with iron, about a fpan long, with a (haft of three yards and a half in length, a fabre, a firelock, carabines, or piftols, or, only a bow and arrows. All bear lances, which, when on horfeback, by means of a flip thong, they fling to a reft in the ftirrup, on their arm, or on the pummel of the faddle. Of the other weapons fome have one fort and others another. Some are without fabres, and others without fire-arms. Thofe that are pro- vided with the latter, bear a cartouch-box over the moulder, which is replaced by a quiver with fuch as carry the bow. The lance is generally decorated SLAVONIANS. 395 decorated with a bit of a dreamer juft below the iron head. The whip *, being a plaited leather lafh an ell long, and as thick as one's thumb, fattened to a fhort flick, may alfo be reckoned among their weapons, fmce, befides exercifmg it upon their horfes, they fall upon an unarmed enemy with it, making very fenfible impreflion. Their faddle is merely a wooden frame, under which they lay a piece of felt for faving the fkin of the horfe, and on it a leather cufliion, in com- panion to their own. The Kozaks are always expert riders, and their miferably-looking horfes are well taught, and perform wonders. Each polk, or regiment, has two or more banners of filk, cut to a couple of points by a pyramidical fiflure, on which is painted the figure of fome patron-faint, with arms, &c. They have no drums or martial mufic. On their expeditions they are very light ; no artillery, no tents, no baggage, forage, and ftore- waggons. A piece of felt is their tent, their cloak, and their bed ; the provifion is car- ried by the fecond horfe ; and, wherever they find any thing that their horfes can eat, they always make bold to take it for them. Againft regular troops they are not eager to contend ; but upon fuch as are lefs difciplined they rum * Kantftiu. with 396 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. with great impetuofity ; in attacking the baggage and magazines, in forcing contributions, and the like, they perform miracles. In the late turkifh wars fome polks behaved fo well, that, in reward for their fen 1 ices, they were clothed in uniform, and their officers received rank and portepees, and on fome the emprefs beftowed military orders, .and gold-medals to be worn as marks of her favour. According to their original defti- nation, they are ftill chiefly employed in guarding the lines or frontiers, a part of them in forts and itanitzes, and another part during fummer in. the fleppes, where they encamp in tents or in huts made of bufhes or clay. The Kozaks are divided, as well by their origin as by their prefent conftitution, into two main branches ; the Kozaks of Little-RuJfia, and the Kozaks of the Don. From the former are derived the flobode-regiments in the government of Kharkof, and the Saporogians ; from the latter the volgaifki, the grebenlki, the orenburgfki, the uralfld, the fibirfki, and feveral other branches of Kozaks. The grand-dukedom of Kief was, fince Oleg transferred thither his feat from Novgorod, the capital of the ruffian nation ; and continued to be fo till the year 11^7, when the grand-duke Andrey Yuryevitch Bogolubikoi chofe Vladimir for SLAVONIANS. 397 for his refidence. From that time forward, though Kief had its own princes, yet this con- tinued no longer than till the year 1 240, when the Tartars conquered Kief and defolated the whole country. Eighty years the tartarian dominion lafted, during which this grand-duke- dom retained its native princes, but they were under the arbitrary orders of the Tartars, and were obliged to divide their fovereign-ri^hts with the tartarian ' viceroys. From this fupremacy, which left the country dill fome femblance of an independent conftitution, Kief fell in 1320, under the dominion of the Ihhuanian prince Gedimin, who defeated the laft grand-duke Staniflaf, placed a viceroy in his (lead, and in bis conduct towards this unhappy country, afted from no law but that of the conqueror. At this sera we are probably to fix the origin of the MALO-RITSSIAN Kozaks, or Kozaks of Little- Ruflia. The dread of a foreign fovereignty which feemed to announce itfelf by unufual feverity, may be reafonably fuppofed to have given rife to this military republic. A multitude of fugitives, who had abandoned their country, collected themfelves together in the lower regions of the Dniepr, where they foon began to form a petty flate. The perpetual incurfions and con- tefts to which they were fubject from their neighbours 398 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. neighbours the Poles, the Lithuanians and Tar- tars obliged them to adopt a military form of government. Their numbers were increafmg con- fiderably, when Kief, for the fecond time, in 1415, was ravaged by the Tartars; and, laftly, on this grand-dukedom being entirely with Li- thuania incorporated into the polifh ftate, and the kings of Poland, and the inhabitants fuffer- ing flill -greater hardfhips and oppreiFions than before, many of them again fled to the new colony which .had now afiumed the name of Little-Ruffia, in order to diftinguifh themfelves from the great ruffian empire. By infenfible degrees they now fpread as far as the Bogue and the Dnieftr, and poflefied the whole country in- cluded by thefe rivers and the Dniepr. Villages and towns fprung up in which the Kozaks parted the winter with their families ; all the effe&ive men roaming about the fteppes during the fum- mer, and, like the knights of St. John, perpe- tually engaged in petty wars with the Turks and Tartars*. Thefe circumftances rendered them a barrier to the kingdom of Poland againft thefe enemies ; the rife and progrefs of the new free- ftate was therefore not only not impeded on the * So early as towards the latter end of the fixtcenth cen- tury, the Kozaks fubdued a part of the Krimea, captured Trebifond, and made military campaigns to Conftantinople. part SLAVONIANS. 399 part of Poland, but even foftered and encouraged in various ways. King Sigifmund made over in perpetuity to the Kozaks, in 1540, the countries lying above the cataracts of the Dniepr. Stephen Battori put them upon a regular military footing, gave them a hetman or fupreme commander, and granted them likewife confiderable diftrids *. His fuccefibrs, however, departed from thefe prudent meafures ; they forbad the Kozaks to quarrel with the Turks, without confidering that they thus deftroyed the fundamental policy of this warlike ftate ; Poles forced themfelves into the country and took poflerTion of the principal offices ; the greek clergy, in fhort, were obliged to renounce the patriarch of Conflantinople, and to acknowledge the fpiritual fupremacy of the pope. * The fixth hetman, prince Bogdan Rofchinfky, had a grant of the town of Terechtanirof, which from that time became the capital of the Kozaks, which had hitherto been Tfcherkafiy. The Kozaks obtained permiflkm to inhabit the whole region from Kief to Tercchtemirof, and on the eaftern fide of the Dniepr their former poflcffioas were en- larged by a tra& of country of 120 miles in extent. Thus Stephen had the prudence by this piece of policy in fome meafure to fubjeft the Kozaks to him. His fucceffors pro- fited by this dependence, till at laft the mutual relations of the two ftates, which had arifen from protelion on one fide and gratitude on the other, degenerated into opprefiion and rebellion. Thefe 400 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. Thefe and numberlefs other opprefiions at length brought on a tedious war, profecuted with various fuccefs, and terminating on the part of the Kozaks with their throwing off the fupre- macy of Poland, and fubmitting themfelves for- mally to the tzar of Ruffia. This fubmiffion took place in the year 1654, under the hetman Bogdan Chmelnitzki, and this example was foon followed by all the towns and inhabitants on the eaflern fide of the Dniepr, with Kief. Thus at length was Little- Ruffia and the antient main- feat of the flavo-ruffian nation, after a feparation of 354 years, again united with the main body of the ruffian monarchy. The events of this country, from that period, fall in with the hiftory of the ruffian empire. The name Little-Ruffia indeed flill fubfifls ; but the form of its govern- ment, its kozak eftablifliment, and the nation itfelf have undergone great alterations, which have only fome vefliges of its former difference. The Malo-ruffians arc fomewhat different in their manners and way of life from the other nations, and are therefore conftdered as a par- ticular people. Their country poffefles every advantage favour- able to a numerous population ; a mild climate, arable plains, partly indeed fandy, but moftly fertile, SLAVONIANS. 4OI fertile, few mountains, waters abounding in fifli, and a fufficiency of forefts. The Malo-ruffians, in the year 1240, fell under the yoke of the Tartars ; from whom they were conquered by the Lithuanians in 1320, during their fubjection to whom, they probably formed themfelves into Kozaks ; and in 1 47 1 , they were reduced under the dominion of the Poles. At that time they all dwelt beyond the cataracts of the Dniepr, and were therefore called Zaporo- gians, which appellation was afterwards limited to a diflinft troop of them ; in 1 654 they fubmitted, after a tedious war with the Poles, to tzar Alexey Michailovitch, and from that period have ever continued under their antient mafters. Their intercourfe with the Poles has given them fomewhat of a polifh and ruffian mixture in their features and look, a mingled fet of man- ners and cuftoms, and their fpeech a polifli dialed. Indeed they are fo blended that their original character is loft : difiembling, induftrious, and active ; friends to the pleafures of love, of the bottle, and vociferous mirth. The nation is diflributed into nobility, militia, burghers, and boors. The nobility are defcended partly from renowned warriors ; but moftly from the polifh nobility and others that remained among them. They may poffefs eftates and VOL. i. D D vaflals, 4O2 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. vafials, pay no perfonal taxes, and can enter Into the fervice. The military clafs is the principal ; and, fo long ago as the reign of king Stephen of Poland, procured a divifion of the country, not. into provinces, but according to regiments. Thefe- at prefent are Kief, Starodub, Tchernigof, Nefhni, Priluki, Gadis, Poltava, Lubin, Pereia- flavl, and Mirgorod ; each having its capital town of the fame name, and diftrict-towns, with numerous villages for Kozaks and boors. The regiments * have as many Kozaks as there are barracks in the confines of the government j accordingly there is a great inequality in the number of companies as well as of men. In re- gard to officers or commanders who furnifh them- felves with horfes, clothes, arms, and accoutre- ments ; their ceconomy is the fame with that of the Kozaks in general. By the appointment of king Stephen, they were all placed under one chieff, but, as fome of them greatly abufed their power, fcarcely any thing of that dignity now remains except the title. The Kozaks hold their meffuages entirely as freeholds, and follow whatever employments or trades they pleafe. The malo-ruflian military has its own jurif- prudence, and its own war-chancery, in which * Polki. t Httman. the SLAVONIANS. 463 the hetman prefides, who, till the time of Ma- zeppa, was nearly arbitrary in his decrees; yet one part of the troops is ftill called the hetman's guard. The infignia of the hetman are, the truncheon, the national ftandard, the horfe-tail, kettle-drums, and the national fignet. For de- fraying the public expenditures, the Kozaks raife money by taxes on corn, tolls at bridges, fairs, &c When the Malo-ruflians fubmitted to Ruffia, they confifted of 40,000 warriors, who foon in- creafed to 60,000. At prefent they are incom- parably more numerous, but great numbers of them are regiftered only as Referve-Kozaks. In later times a part of the Kozaks, efpecially fuch as are properly Ukrainian and flobodian are put on the footing of huffars, and changed into re- gular light-horfe. They retain their mefluages, are in conftanr fervice and pay, wear the hufiar uniform and arms, and their officers have rank in the army. All thefe together compofe a body of about 30,00.0 men, and confifl of ten regi- ments, the fervian, the moldavian, the mace- donian, &c. The malo-rufllan yeomanry in the regiment- towns, &c. are free, have magiftrates and voie- vodes of their own choofmg, and purfueall kinds of civil trades. They are under the chancery of the malo-ruffian general government. D D 2 The 404 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. The boors * live in villages adjacent to thofe of the Kozaks, and belong either to the crown or to the nobility. They are eftablifhed according to the laws, and not at pleafure. They are exempt from military fervice, but pay the head- money. They exceed the number of the Kozaks and burghers in a three-fold degree. The houfes of the Kozaks, burghers, and boors, are more in the foreign ftyle, of partition- work and mud-walls ; where wood is fcarce, almofl entirely of mortar, with more apartments, always with chimnies, and plaftered white on the outfide. The furniture is likewife more in the foreign tafle, and better finifhed. Many of the principal people and foreigners, both in their habitations and their manner of living, entirely refemble the Poles and Germans. The towns carry on a trade with the produces of the country, corn, cattle, flax, wool, tobacco, faltpetre, &c. and have all the necefiary artificers. They trade to St. Peterfburg, Riga, Breflau, Poland, the Krim, and other places, and carry brandy to the ruffian towns. As yet they have fet up no manufactories. Agriculture and the breeding of cattle are the chief bufmefles of the Malo-ruflians. They pro- duce far more corn than they want for their own * Pofpoliti or Poddamie. confumption, SLAVONIANS. 405 confumption, which overplus they partly export, and partly diflil into a prodigious quantity of brandy. About Kief and Poltava they have lately made a good beginning with the culture of the filk-worm and the vine. In fome diflricls grazing fucceeds much better than agriculture. The feveral fpecies of cattle refemble thofe of Poland. The fheep are of the common fort, and bear good wool, but the management of them will Mill admit of great improvements. They attend more to the breed of neat-cattle than of horfes, becaufe they ufe the former for draught, and becaufe they always grow fat in autumn, and may be fent in large droves for the flaughter-houfes of Breflau, St. Peteriburg, and other places. Many of the country-people and Kozaks have confiderable cow-lares, and nume^ rous flocks of bees, which they tend in thepolilh manner. Even children are employed in the fandy diflricls in gathering the polifh cochineal *, or the cocons of an infect found on the roots of the feleranthus perennis Linn, of the lichnis vifcofa t, of the ftrawberry and the cinq-foil. The Malo-ruffians feed like the Ruffians, only as they have fine gardens, they eat more vege- tables, and in general their diet is better. Where there is plenty of beer, mead, and brandy, they * Tfhervetfh. f Smilka. D D 3 feldom 406 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. feldom care about wine. In woodlefs places they warm their rooms and cook their victuals with dried weeds, ftraw, and cow-dung. People of the towns drefs themfelves in the german, ruffian, and fome in the polifh manner. The Kozaks go entirely in the polifh drefs, only not with the fhaven crown. They wear little caps with a flat broad brim ; the hufiars are clad in their own uniform ; the peafantry wear the fame clothes as the boors of Ruilia and Poland. The women of condition are getting every day nearer to the french ftyle of drefling. The ceremonial of their baptifms and burials is that in ufe with the greek church. At their marriages, it is ufual for the mother of the bride, from an old traditionary fuperdition, to try to frighten the horfes of the guefts. On the morning after the wedding the tokens of pre- ferved chaftity are exhibited; and that day is pafled more jovially than the former. On fuch occafions it is neither unufual nor difgraceful for even ladies to take ftrong liquors far beyond the point of exhilaration j indeed, in plain terms, to be completely drunk. The Malo-ruffians have no peculiar maladies. The plague fometimes appears upon their fron- tiers ; but it neither fpreads wide nor lafts long. They have cured the venereal difeafe from time imme SLAVONIANS. 407 immemorial, by a folution of a drachm of mer- curial fublimate in three pounds of brandy, of which they take a fpoonful daily. Even inocu- lation of the fmall-pox has been long in practice among them. Without any preparation, they bind a rag dipped in the variolous pus upon fome part of the child's body, without making an incifion in the fkin. The child feldom dies of this difeafe, and as feldom fuifers any injury. During the war between the Kozaks and the Poles numerous bodies of fugitive Kozaks fled from the weftern to the eaftern fide of thfc Dniepr into the fouthern provinces of the ruf- fian empire, where, preferving their military conftitution, they fettled in an uninhabited but fertile region *. This is the origin of what ar$ called the flobode Kozaks. The country in which thefe were ellablifhed^ had antiently be- longed to the grand-duchy of Kief, and, from the time of its being firfl over-run by the Tartars, had remained an unpeopled defert ; the new- comers who now returned to the defolated in- heritance of their fathers, were well-received by tzar Alexey Michailovitch ; their numbers in- creafed by the arrival of new fettlers, and they conftructed many towns and villages. This re- * In the prefent government of Kharkof, and partly too in thofe of Kurfk and Voronetch. D D 4 gion 4^8 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. gion at prefent is one of the moft inhabited of the ruffian empire. The fecond confiderable colony of the malo- ruffian Kozaks, the Zaporogians, arofe much earlier than the flobode regiments. In order the better to defend the country of the ukraine Kozaks againft the inroads of the Tartars, it had been fettled that a part of the young un- married men mould always abide on the fouth- ern borders where the Dniepr falls into the Euxine ; by which means this diftrict fhortly became a rendezvous of ftout martial youths, and the flay there was confidered as a fchool for military exercifes. The Polifh government fa- voured this feminary, by which the country ob- tained the benefit of a border-militia ; and the greater degree of freedom in which the young Kozaks here patted their time, was fo agreeable to them, that they were never defirous of a dif- charge from their unquiet and dangerous ports. Accuflomed to a bachelor's life they admitted no women among them; yet their numbers were gradually increafing by fugitive Kozaks who fought a ihelter among them from polifh oppreflion. By little and little their habitations extended to the mores of the Bogue, and they eftabliflied themfelves in all the adjacent parts. About the commencement of the feventeenth century SLAVONIANS. 401 century they came to a total reparation from the parental flock, the malo-rufTian Kozaks, under the hetman whereof they had hitherto lived, and erefted a military ftate of their own, whofe chief was to be an elective arbitrary kofchevoi- ataman. Their chief-feat, which they called fctfcba, confifted of a fortified camp, and though they often removed it from one place to an- other, yet they conftantly remained about the cataracls, porogi, of the Dniepr, from which they received their distinctive appellation * : Za- porogi, " at the cataracts.'* The conflitution of this little military nation was one of the mod curious in the world. War was the ultimate aim of their focial connection, their habitual trade, and their darling employ- ment. Agriculture and the breeding of cattle they entirely neglected, and followed the fifhery, and the chace, no otherwife than as matters of paftime. Celibacy was enjoine'd as a funda- mental law of their ftate ; but for gratifying the * Kofch in the tartarian fignifies a camp. Ataman is of like import with hetman. The, term fitfcha comes from the rufs verb to cut off, to lop away ( i } ; the camp was fortified, and confequently cut off from the circumjacent region or diftridl. Za in rufs fignifies behind, beyond, and porog a cataract or water-fall. (i) Otflitfch. inftinfts 410 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. inftincls of nature they made a- practice of bring- ing oil women from their neighbours, but the ravifhers were obliged to keep the victims of their lufl at a diftance from the fetlcha. In or- der to keep up their numbers, they not only dole children wherever they could catch them, but criminals and vagabonds from all the nations around were welcomed and adopted by them. There are but few european languages that were not fpoken among them. Their conftitution was purely democratic ; every Kozak enjoyed equal rights. Their ataman was elected annu- ally ; and, on the expiration of his office, fell again to the rank of the common Kozaks. Every citizen of the republic had equal pretenfions to this fovereign dignity. No written laws were known to them, but they had ufages which held the place of law, and by which decifions were made with extraordinary ftrictnefs and impartiality. A Kozak who killed his fellow- citizen was buried alive with the body. A thief was obliged to ftand three days on the pillory, and puniihed with lames till frequently he died under the fccurge. The generality of them adhered to the greek church ; yet no notice was taken of diverfity of opinion in matters of faith. Their moral character was conformable to their way of life and form of government : i 3 they SLAVONIANS. 411 they had all the virtues and vices of a free people fubfifting by war and rapine. They were courageous and favage j hofpitable and greedy of prey ; active and temperate on their expeditions, and lazy and gluttonous at home. The number of effective men among them, amounted at times to 40,000 *. Thefe Kozaks often changed their fovereignty, if we may fo call the relation in which this in- domptable people flood one while with Poland, then with the Tartars and the Porte, and laftly with Ruffia. Peter the great deftroyed their fetfcha, on their taking part in the rebellion of the Ukrainian hetman Mazeppa ; but they afTem- bled again afterwards under the protection of the khan of the Krimea, and were re-admitted in 1737 as ruffian vaflals. A chancery was erected for the purpofe of overfeeing them, which how- ever had but little or no influence on their in- ternal government. The only obligation they were under to the empire was to appear in the field when commanded, at which times they were paid and provided as was cuftomary with * The ruffian chancery was feldom exactly informed of the real number of the Ko/aks, as they confidered their force as a political fccrct. In the year 1764, the number of effective people was thought to amount to 27,117 ; but probably they were much ftronger. the 412 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. the Kozaks. In the turkifh war which termi- nated in 1774, they not only proved faithlefs on feveral occafions, but alfo betrayed their defign of rendering themfelves independent. When they re-captured the region of the Dniepr, which at that time was called New Servia, but afterwards belonged to the Ne\v-rufIIan government, and was peopled with colonifts, they declared that coun- try to be their property, praclifed hoftilities againft the fettlers, and partly by artifice and partly by violence reduced about 50,000 Malo- ruffians to their obedience. This rebellion, their life of celibacy and rapine, the total neglect of agriculture in fo fertile a country, and the con- ftant refiilance they made to every attempt at bringing them to a better conduct, at length determined the emprefs, in the year 1775, en- tirely to annihilate the exiftence of this little fpartan ftate. A body of ruffian troops fur- rounded and difarmed them. A manifefto was iffued, by which it was left to their choice, whether, by adopting a decent and moral re- gimen, they would become ufeful fubje&s, or take themfelves out of the empire. A part of them remained, and took to various trades; others in numerous bands withdrew to the Turks and Tartars, or led a roving life about the ruffian frontiers. The country which they had poffeffed was added to the then New-rufiian go- vernment, SLAVONIANS. 413 vernment, and belongs at prefent to that of Ekatarinoflaf. Thus far their hiftory is known and even re- lated by foreign writers. Not fo notorious, however, is the remarkable fad, that the zapo- rogian Kozaks dill fubfift, only under another name, and have recently received a new confti- tution in a country allotted to them. By an ukafe of the 3oth of June 1792, Catharine II. affigned to the Zaporogians, who rendered themfelves ferviceable during the laft turkifh war, the ifland of Taman (belonging to the province of Taurida) with the entire region be- tween the river Kuban and the fea of Azof as far as the rivers Yeya and Laba (a traft of 1017 fq. geogr. miles) for their place of fettlement. They obtained at .the fame time, under the name of Kozaks of the Euxine, a well-regulated kozak-conftitution, and the right of electing their own atamans ; but are immediately de- pendent on the governor of the province of Taurida, and are placed under the department of the college of war. Their numbers, of both fexes, amount now to above 20,000, among whom is a difciplined corps well-equip, edof 15,000 men. We fee then that though their little democracy was perfectly in the manner of the Kozaks, yet 414 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. yet it was far more inflexible and fevere, and in l\ s political oeconomy entirely fpartan. Like them they were divided into companies, and had offi- cers of the fame diftin&ions. To live in military celibacy was their primary law. But, as, in this manner, they muft foon die out and be ex- tincl ; they fell on the expedient of adopting all the fugitives from every nation, without paying the lead regard either to language or religion, or adverting at all to their manners or any former criminality of conduct. Accordingly, they were a vile rude mixture of Malo-rumans, Poles, Tartars, and every other alien race, which not only did not decline, but went on increafmg. All the officers were in the pay of the crown. The fource of maintenance to the common people, in the method of the Kozaks, ought to have been huibandry ; but they make depreda- tions and plunder, on the territory of the Tar- tars, Turks, and Poles, their principal bufinefs,, not only in time of war, but at all times. Their fetfcha had a wooden fortification, and a particular fortrefs, containing the artillery, arms, ammunition, and warlike (lores. The fetfcha had fome refemblance with a kozak polk, or regi- ment, divided into 38 quarters* anfvvering to companies. SLAVONIANS. 4IJ companies. In the fetfcha were but few timber houfes, as the generality of thefe Kozaks dwelt in huts of earth with thatch-coverings. Each kure had its officers, and an attaman *, but all of them under the command of the kofhevoi attaman, who, for the time his office lafted, en- joyed great authority, as alfo confiderable reve- nues from tolls on carriage of goods, imports on merchandize, brandy, &c. but, when out of office, he returned to the common level, and was paid no greater refpeft than the reft, as they regarded all that were out of the fervice as brethren. This officer was elected annually, and might till then have been only a com- mon Kozak, fo he had but diftinguifhed him- felf by prudence and courage ; and, whatever he had been before his election, to that he became again on the expiration of his office. To be a Kozak, was, in their opinion, a great honour ; and therefore they ufed to adopt as Kozaks, foreigners even of the higheft ranks, who happened to be travelling through their country, giving them a diploma to produce asnoccafion might require, to certify to the world that they had been found worthy of that fuperior diftinclion. As all among them enjoyed equal rights and liberties, every diflatisfied perfon, * Kurevoi attaman. without 41 6 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. without any formal difiniflion, was free to go wherever he pleafed : though the greater part of the Kozaks dwelt in the fetfcha, yet many of them lived in a fuburb adjoining to it, and not a few on their little cow-yards *, and the petty villages of their territory. In the fetfcha was a market-place, wherein there conflantly flood a pair of kettle-drums, which were beat by the mafter-drummer f, whenever the people were to be called to council. At this market were fold provifions, materials for clothes, with all kinds of neceffaries, brought thither by foreign merchants, who took up their quarters in the fuburbs. The chancery was fo negligently conducted, that it feldom knew the true number t)f the people. This was very unequal, but was generally fuppofed to exceed 40,000 men. In the year 1764, they had 27,117 Kozaks in actual fervice. Public afiemblies } were held in the market- place. The kofhevoi attaman appeared with the enfigns of his office, the baton of command , the banner, and the fecretary of Mate with an ink-pot. Round the commander flood the people. The kofhevoi flyled the people his young brifk brethren ; and the people in return faluted their officers in terms of refpect. How* * Cbutori. f Dobyih. t Rada. Politza. ever, SLAVONIANS. 417 ever, after all thefe mutual compliments, they frequently proceeded to injurious epithets, and thence to blows j for many of them, who wanted to carry fome particular motion, or had an intereft in preventing the fuccefs of another, came to the aflembly drunk. Whoever was the fubjeft of debate, was obliged to keep at a dif- tance, as he otherwife ran the rifk of being killed on the fpot. In the rada they confulted on pre- texts for going on parties of pillage and rapine, and the beft means of conducting them. As the cavalry flood the brunt of all, they retained the booty. At the election of the kofchevoi and the ftarfhines, almoft the whole rada ufed to be drunk. The kofchevoi likewife, during his office was obliged to be very bountiful in brandy, as a means of procuring obedience. The Male- ruffians followed the laws of Poland ; the Zapo- rogians had nothing written, but judged accord- ing to antient ufage, and decided by the plurality of voices. I mall juli throw together a few par- ticulars concerning them, in addition to thofe already given. Each Kozak procured himfelf a horfe, arms, clothes, ammunition, and provifion, for ravaging parties. While in fervice they were provide^ and arrayed by the crown like other Kozaks, VOL. i. IE It 41 8 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. It was their general pra&ice to make attacks, in which there was little hazard and much to be got. Though the Kozaks of the fetfch lived by pro- perty, according to the primitive import of the term, as vagabonds, on fpoil, &c. yet many of them in little villages without the fetfcha purfued fomewhat of agriculture and graziery in the malo- ruffian method. In times of peace they all received a little pay from the public cheft. The fimery on the Dniepr was likewife a great help to them ; which they divided, according to the number of the kures, into 38 portions. Many in the fub- urbs addicted themfelves to traffic and the vulgar trades, in proportion as bounds were fet to their ravages and depredations. In their clothes they refembled the Poles, or rather the polifh Ulans ; every one wearing fuch materials and colour as he chofe. Their drefs was handfome and warlike. In the fetfcha they lived, according to our notions, very uncomfortably and miferably. Each kure was a feparate mefs, and a couple of Kozaks were cooks. Their every-day's food tonfifled in porridge of meal or grits, and quas or fifh-foup with meal, which they ate out of long troughs with fpoons. They very rarely tatted flefh, and flill fcldomer bread j but they guzzled SLAVONIANS. 419 guzzled brandy as long as their money held out ; when that was gone, they were obliged to be fober for feveral weeks. Marriage formed no part of their political economy ; no woman was even allowed to come into the fetfcha. Such as had the good luck to carry off women from the Tartars and Poles, or to get loofe females from. Little-Ruflia, cohabited with them as married people, or even without the forms of efpoufals in their home-flails. The fons were raw un polifhed Kozaks like the fathers'. Neither mar- riage nor the attendance on domcftic affairs were allowed to detain them from fulfilling the decrees of the fetfcha. Whoever was a Kozak, was bound to profefs the faith of the orthodox Greeks. When they had been fuccefsful in robbery, they firft mewed their gratitude to heaven by making rich prefents to the church and its miniflers ; and then bought themfelves handfome fabres and clothes, and en- tertained in the drink-houfes all that came ; by which liberality they were foon reduced to po verty again. When general Balmain furrounded and deftroyed their fetfcha in 1774, he found this barbarous and unruly gang of banditti in pofleflion of 46 pieces of cannon, and a large .quantity of fmall arms and ammunition. The 2 2 generality 420 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. generality of thefe reduced Kozaks are become peaceable and induftrious hufbandmen. I fhall clofe this account of thefe Kozaks with fome general remarks by Mr. Pleflfcheyief. The ground occupied by the Kozaks, fays he, is ex- ceedingly rich and fruitful, very proper for agri- culture, for the cultivation of vines, for garden- ing, and for pafture : but the Kczaks, whofe fupinenefs is unpardonable, being totally given up to lazinefs, make not the leaft advantage of their fine fituation, and neglect every benefit which would enable them to be happy themfelves as well as ufeful to their neighbours. They carry on a tolerable commerce with the Greeks and the inhabitants of the Kuban, which confifts in fifh, horfes, horned cattle, and other products. They make fome wine, but in fo fmall a quantity that the whole of it is confumed at home. About the Don, as well as in almoft every part of Ruflia, from time to time are found-gypfies, a race well known every where by their frauds and larcenies. They have no fixed refidence, but wander continually from one place to ano- ther, and exercife the trades of blackfmiths, farriers, and horfe-dealers, which laft profeflion they generally carry on by exchanging inftead of felling their horfes. In order to colled the poll- tax SLAVONIANS. 421 tax \vith greater certainty, the majority of them are put under the hifpection of different matters, of whom they are obliged to obtain paffports before they can go upon their perambulations. To the number of the Kozaks may be added the inhabitants newly planted in the neighbourhood of the Euxine. Thefe laft are under the direction of the great hetman of the Kozaks of Ekatarino- flaf and that fea, whofe numbers are not yet precifely afcertained. The fecond main branch of the Kozaks are the Donfkoi. They have this appellation from the region of the river Don, which they have conftantly inhabited, and mod probably derive their defcent from novgorodian Ruffians. The firft fettlements of them on the Don cannot xvell have been earlier than after the Tartars were forced out of thofe parts. The fame homeftead and a fimilar mode of life probably occafioned the tartarian name of Kozaks to be given to the rifing colony, which was afterwards communicated to the confederate Malo-ruffians, who lived under a like military conftitution. It is not improbable that the Ruffians, on their firft coming, foun4 dill confiderable remains of Tartars in thefe parts, with whom they united and induced them to adopt the greek religion and the ruffian lan- guage. This fuppofition at leaft accounts for E E 3 the 4'22 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. the rapid increafe of the republic and the ruffo- tartarian mixture, which is ftill perceived, as well Jn the features as in the language of the donfkoi Kozaks. This colony, foon after its origin became a confiderable (late. The happy effects of their profitable warfare tempted a multitude of bold and enterprifing youths to come over to them from all the provinces of the empire ; and the vaflalage of the boors, introduced about this time into Ruffia, contributed greatly to multiply their numbers by runaways from this depreffed con- dition* A great many efcaped back to their former homeflead, and even the prifoners of war obtained denizenfhip by the policy of the Kozaks, for the fake of increafmg the number of their foldiery* After the unfortunate campaign of the Turks againft Aflrakhan in 1570, they felt themfelves fufficiently bold and powerful to make Tfcherkafk their capital, 60 verfts from the fort of Azof belonging to the Turks. - They were now in reality a bulwark to the ruffian empire ; the monarch of it therefore acted by thefe Kozaks^ as the kings of Poland about the fame time did by the Malo-ruffians : me favoured their growth, affigned them countries free of imports, on the borders, and endeavoured to keep them in a fort SLAVONIANS. 423 fort of dependence which might be ufeful to the government, efpecially in times of war. In the year 1 579, we for the firft time meet with donfkoi Kozaks among the ruffian troops ; a body of them confiding of 3000 men were in the ex- pedition made by tzar Ivan Vaffillievitch againfl Livonia, by whom they were alfo paid. Since that time they have frequently been of great fer- vice to the ruffian empire by their bravery ; though, from their love of independence and from their propenfity to depredation, they have fuffered themfelves to be incited to rebellion *. At prefent the donfkoi Kozaks inhabit the plains about the Don, between the governments of Saratof, Caucafus, Voronetfh, and Ekatarino- flaf, as far as the fea of Azof. Their territory, which even now amounts to upwards of 3600 fquare miles, was formerly -far more extenfive ; but fmce the rebellion of 1708, a part of it has been added to the adjacent provinces. As the donfkoi Kozaks have preferved their kozak con- ftitution entire, they live under a military regimen totally different from the other governments. Their number is eflimated at 200,000, of whom * The mod important rebellions of this nation, are, that of the year 1670, of which Stenka Rafm was at the head, and that of 1708, under the conduft of Bolavin. E E 4 a corps 424 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. a corps of light-cavalry of 25,000 is always ready for marching. Internal revolutions, and a difpofition to broils, have given birth to many emigrations of the donlkoi Kozaks, whereby feveral new branches of Kozaks have arifen, of which only the mod fignal are deferving of being farther particu- larifed. The earlieft emigrations happened to the Volga, where the Kozaks ufed only to tarry in fummer, and on the approach of winter to re- turn to their dwellings about the Don. In procefs; of time, a part of them completely fettled about the firft mentioned river, whereby feveral towns on the Volga, as Saratof, Dmitrefik, Tzaritzin, Tfchernoi Yar, and others, obtained inhabitants, who afterwards for the moil part went over to the civil conftitution. In the year 1734, the Colgate Kozaks were declared independent on thofe of the Don; when they obtained equal privileges with the latter, and had their own ataman. At prefent the kozak regimen is abolHhed among the greater part of them ; no more than two colonies are upon the true kozak eftablimment and perform military fervice. Thefe are the DUBOFSKOI and the ASTRAKHANSKOI. The former have their chief feat in the little town of Dubofca, on the right bank of the Volga. The country afligned them lies between Dmitreffk and Tzaritzin, SLAVONIANS. . 425 Tzaritzin, and extends over a fpace of 100 verfls in length and 60 in breadth. They amount to about 3000 heads. In the year 17/6, they were obliged to deliver a part of their men, who were formed into a proper kozak-regiment, and had its quarters between Mofdok and Azof. ' The aftrakhan Kozaks dwell partly in the city o Aftrakhan, and partly in the villages around; in numbers they are about equal to the former. The donfkoi Kozaks are moftly well-fet, hand- fome men. The generality of them have a coun- tenance completely ruffian, but in many is feen a mixture of the tartarian ; probably from their female anceftors of that race. Their moral cha- racter is entirely ruffian ; but their education and courfe of life render them more bold and refolute than the ruffian vulgar. Totally neg- ligent of all fcience and letters', by which a gene- rous occupation is afforded to the mind in the calm retreats of fludy, they have at all times had people, who have rendered rhemfelves famous as heroes arid conquerors, and fometimes as rebels or tyrants. The patriarchs of the uralian Kozaks ; Yermak, the conqueror of Siberia, Stenko Rafm, Bulovin, Yemelka Pugatfhef, were donfkoi Kozaks. The constitution of the Kozaks of the Don is that before mentioned as common to them all j 426 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. yet fmce the late wars with the Turks, their polki, or regiments, are put on a more regular footing, are uniformly clothed and accoutred, and their officers have rank in the army. In 1778, four of their atamans were made colonels, and more than 20 of them majors. From the regifters of the year 1764, they raifed, clothed, armed, and mounted 16,000 men at their own cofls ; at prefent, in proportion to their num- t>ers, they can at any time furnim 50,000 cavalry completely equipped. In regard to the crown, befides the many privileges that have been granted them, they are entirely exempt from the payment of taxes ; for the levies their internal conftitution requires, they impofe fmall contributions on themfelves. As far as Tcherkafk, they all live in ftanitzas or badly fortified villages, of which they have fomewhat more than a hundred. Every ftanitza contains a company unequally numerous; has its officers, the atamans, its fotnik, yeflaul, and writer, its court-houfe, a ftandard, and a few pieces of cannon. Some ftanitzas have two churches. When a meeting is to be held at the court-room, the yeflaul cries aloud in the flreets : Ye fons of atamans ! come to council ! Without the ftanitza is an inclofed place * * Taboun. for SLAVONIANS. 427 for muttering the horfes. Tcherkafk, their only town, they boaftingly call, our donfkoi-kozak town. It is fpacious, populous, and divided into eleven ftanitzas or quarters. Here is the chan- cery of the whole tribe, in which the com- mander, or chief ataman, prefides, and the offi- cers of the regiments or polki are the council. From the low fituation of the town on the right more of the Don, one part of it is much ex- poied to inundations. As the donfkoi are more employed in fervice than the other corps of Kozaks, they are confequently better foldiers. War is their element, becaufe they then can live according to their own inclinations, and benefit themfelves by the fpoils of their enemies. Their houfes in the ftanitzas are like the ruf- fian; but having moftly chimnies, they are therefore more cleanly. Since the pruflian war, they have been obferved to have better furni- ture, and to live more comfortably ; many of their rooms are handfomely fitted up with paper- hangings, and the holy figures are better paint- ed. Tcherkafk contains fome brick-houfes. They are a hofpitable people ; great lovers of flrong liquors, which they enjoy in frequent potations. When at home, their principal fupport arifes from the breeding of cattle, agriculture,%nd the nfhery. 428 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. fifhery. The chace is but of little confequence in their open fteppes. Many of them have forms *, and on them from 50 to 200 horfes, horned cattle to the fame amount, and a ftill greater number of fheep : the grazing bufmefs, from their mild and fhort winters, fucceeds very well ; and, on the banks of their rivers, they have plentiful crops of hay, rich lands for all kinds of corn, and thick forefts. In general, from their propenfity to war, and a difpofition to idlenefs, they are very negligent of huf- bandry; and then, from the want of towns in which they might turn their fuperfluity of money, they have no encouragement to purfue it but what arifes from neceflity ; fo that they are moftly poor. The fame negligence is appa- rent in their orchards and gardens, which, with but moderate induftry, might be made very pro- ductive. With arts, mechanics, and the various branches of ftudy, they never meddle at all. At Tcherkaik, it is true, the ordinary mecha- nical trades are carried on ; but then it is by foreign workmen ; and, as to the common Ko- zaks, they make themfelves what they want for their own ufes, and are contented with it, as it is, without aiming at making it better. What fifri, caviar, i^inglafs, and hides remain over * Chutori. from SLAVONIANS. 429 from their own confumption, they baiter with ruffian, tartarian, turkifh, and perfian merchants for iron, articles of clothes, and fmall wares. The women, from the frequently long ab- fences of their hufbands, are more accuftomed to work in the field than the Ruffians ; but they alfo referable the men more in their manner of life and in regard to drinking; it is faid of them too, that they eafily fupply themfelves with other comforts while their hufbands are away. Their manners and cuiloms differ very little from thofe of the Ruffians. In their efpoufals they obferve no tedious ceremonies. The bride is fetched by the bridegroom and his friends on horfeback ; and the horfe of the bridegroom is hung about with a great number of little, jingling bells. Their martial exercifes connfl in riding, tilt- ing, and hacking with the fabre, and are a fort of folemn games. On thefe occafions they ap- pear well mounted, in their befl clothes, and exert all their dexterity. When the ammuni- tions arrive that are fent annually by the crown, they and the efcort are met by all the ftanitzas jn parade, and received at the diftrict of Tcher- kalk by the polk of the place, with its colours flying, and brought to the arfenal in grand pro- ceffion. A fecond 430 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. A fecond colony of the donfkoi Kozaks are the GREBENSKOI who feparated from their parent- ftock about the fame time with the VOLGAIC, and fettled about the river Terek, whence they are alfo called TEREKSKOI Kozaks. In a campaign of the tzar Ivan I. againfl the caucafian Tartars, a body of them, as the van of the army, penetrated into a part of this great chain of mountains, which on account of its prominent rocks was compared to a comb * ; and on this occafion it \vas that they received their appellation, which they generally bear to this day. Their prefent homeftead is on the Terek, where their regi- ment, confiding of 1200 men, does duty in the frontier lines againft the highland Tartars of Caucafus. Their defcription is nearly that of the lad-mentioned race; on whom they were even dependent in fome refpe&s till 1708, but at prefent not at all. They dwell in five fortified ftanitzas, making fo many companies. Befides their own com- manders and war-officers f, they are under the or- ders of the commandants in the Kifliar and Mof- dok. Being principally ufed againft the Tartars of Mount Caucafus, they are almofl always un- der arms, and therefore in conftant pay. Being * In rufs, greben, \ Voilkovoi ataman. thus SLAVONIANS. 43! thus inured to fervice, courageous, and well- acquainted with the mountains and the tartarian manner of fighting, they are of excellent fervice againfl thefe untractable and piratical neigh- bours ; but their number not being fufficient, in the year 1776, fix flanitzas, or fortified villages, between Mofdok and Azof, were added to them, and fupplied with Kozaks from the Volga. Thefe form one diftincl: polk, or corps, under the denomination of the troop of Aftrakhan-Kozaks. Near the grebenfkoi Ko- zaks dwell the SEMEINSKOI, who are of the fame origin with them, and therefore need no parti- cular account. i The hoft of the donfkoi Kozaks having con- fiderably encreafed in numbers, the horde of the Volga by infenfible degrees fprung out of it ; who at firft only pafled their fummers' on the Volga, but the winter in their ftanitzas on the Don, and at laft remained ftationary on the Volga, whereby all the towns bordering on that river, from Samara, as Saratof, Dmitreffk, Tzaritzin, and Tchernoyar, became inhabited ; and their inhabitants, in procefs of time, from the condition of kozaks, attained to the ftate of burghers j and at prefent are under the ufual municipal magidracy, as merchants, burghers, or boors. A confiderable number of them, however, 432 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. however, frill adhered to their primitive con- flitution as kozaks, independent of thofe on the Don. The prefent Volga-Kozaks confift of two polks, the duboftkoi and the aftrakhanfkoi, the former of which is elder than the latter, and is vulgarly called the Volga-militia *. The dubofikoi polk has its chief refidence and chancery in the flightly fortified town Dubofka, on the more of the Volga, near the mouth of the river Dubofka, 53 verfts above Tzaritzin ; a part of them, however, dwell in great villages, on the more of the Volga, above and below Dubofka. This polk has its war-commander, and other officers, artillery, arms, ammunition, all furniming their own horfes, their own clpaths at pleafure, &c. like thofe of the Don, and is regiftered at fomewhat above i ooo men fit for fervice, though they might raife to the number of 3000. This corps is dependent on the commandant of Tzaritzin ; and, as the greater part of them are in continual fervice, fo they are all conilantly in pay. Their lands are but little fit for agriculture, thofe on the banks of the Volga confiding of wet meads liable to inundations, and farther from the river of arid * Volikoc voiflio. hilly SLAVONIANS* 43 j. hilly fteppes. They are well adapted to the breed of cattle, which accordingly they follow as far as their military fervice will allow, and their wives can manage it. Many of them have farms with a good number of cattle ; but the greater part are far from being rich. In 1776, a large company of them Was draughted off, and ftationed in fix ftanitzaS between Mofdok and Azof, where they form a polk apart. The aftrakhan Kozaks dwell partly in Aftra- khan, and partly in villages between Aftrakhan. and Tzaritzin, on the right more of the Volga. Until the year 1/50 they had only 300 men in fervice ; at prefent they are equal in num- bers with the duboffkoi: but they have far lefs people of referve, as almoft all the men are in arms. Their whole eftablifhment refembles the duboffkoi, confequently like a donfkoi polk. In like manner they are in conftant pay, as alfo in perpetual fervice, and dependent on the commandant at Aftrakhan. One main part of their fervice is to furnifh the relays at the feveral ftations, and the neceflary efcorts for travellers and baggage ; the former according to the poft regulation for pay ; the latter as fervice on the highways from Aftrakhan to Tzaritzin and part of the road to Kifliar ; by which .they fometimes gain and fometimes lofe. VOL, i, F F Their 434- NATIONS 6F THE EMPIRES Their villages * are newly built, in a regular rhethod. For want of timber, the houfes are made of flight frame-work, with clay-walls. The villages are furrounded with earth-ramparts, and furnilhed with a few pieces of cannon to protect them againft the Kalmuks, Kubanians, and Kirghifians. The Koaaks placed at ftationa be- tween very diftant ftanitzas, and are relieved at flated periods, live in pits dug in the earth, built over with bum-huts and wicker work. As the Kalmuks wander about the fteppe as far as the Volga, and in the vicinity of the fta- nitzas, with- their herds ; and the fteppe kfelf being far more faline than higher up the Volga, thefe people, even though they had time for it, have but little opportunity for agriculture, and even the management of cattle is attended with numerous and great impediments ; they, there- fore keep only horfes for fervice, with a few cows and fneep for houfehold purpofes : they profit more from the fiihery, which they are at full liberty to make the moft of. To conclude., they live as foldiers and carriers, who, in drefs and manners, differ not at all from the Don- Kozaks, their patriarchal ftock. More lately than the volgaic, the ORENBURG- Kozaks feparated from their common Item. At * Stanitzas. theus SLAVONIANS. 435 their firfl rife they dwelt collectively about the river Samara ; but, after the conftruclion of the Orenburg-line in 1730 to 1740, the major part of them were tranfported thither. At prefent they have their homeftead along the Samara ; along the Ui and the Ural, from Verkuralfk to Ilezk, alfo in the petty forts erected againft the Kirghifes and the Bamkirs. In all thefe forts, Orenburg excepted, they compofe the majority of the inhabitants, and can eafily bring 20,000 men into the field ; though only from 8000 to 10,000 are inrolled for military fervice. Their army eftablifhment only differs from that introduced among the Don Kozaks in this, that they compofe fo iriany troops as they poifefs forts, not polk-wife belonging to one body, but are all under the war-ataman at Orenburg. Their employments in garrifon, are to form little encampments between the diflant forts, to pa- trol the frontiers, to provide for the convoys or efcorts and relays, to go on expeditions in the kirghifian fleppe, whenever their prefence is necefiary for repelling their attacks, of for en- forcing reftitution for the robberies and depre- dations committed by the hordes ; in all which the Bamkirs are very helpful to the Kozaks. Their remote fituation does not allow of their being fent to diftant fcenes of warj therefore F r 3 their 430 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. their divifion into polks or regiments is not ne- ceflary. The reft of the military eftablifhment of the orenburg-Kozaks in regard to their, commanders, arms, pay, &c. is perfectly fimilar to that of the Kozaks of the Volga and the Don. Their dwellings and drefs are the fame. The females clothe themfelves like the country-women of the provinces where they live. Their means of fupport, befides their pay, are different in different diftrifts. Thofe on the erenburg-line, for want of good arable land, moftly follow the breeding of cattle and many carry on trade. In the Bafhkirey, the provinces of Ufa and Ifet, they cultivate the ground with indudry and profit, as they can get a good price for the fuperfluity of their produce on the lines. Thofe in proper Bafhkirey have an opportunity for hunting, which they purfue to great ad- vantage. On account of the fertility of their diftri&s, the opportunities they have of earning fomewhat, and as their fervice does not re- inove them far nor for any long time from their habitations, they are in general wealthier and live better than the Kozaks of the Don. One of the mofl numerous and powerful branches of the donfkoi ftem is formed by the URALSKOI, formerly called the YAIK.SKOI Kozaks. According SLAVONMNS. 437 According to their traditions they firft arofe about the beginning of the fifteenth century by an inconfiderable number who drew towards the Cafpian as free-booters, and afterwards efta- blifhed themfelves at the mouth of the river Ural, formerly called the YaYk. Augmented by tartarian ftragglers and prifoners of war, the colony foon fpread farther up the mores of this river ; and, at the time of their voluntary fub- mnTion to tzar Michaila Feodorovitch, they were already a confiderable nation, which has fince much increafed by emigrations from the Don. At the commencement of the laft century they obtained from the ruffian government a regular conflitution, with permiffion to fettle in their prefent polTeffions. They were placed on the footing of the Kozaks of the Don, obtained the free and exceedingly-productive fimery of the Ural, the licence to fetch their fait, duty-free, from the adjacent faline-lakes, the liberty to diftil brandy, together with feveral other privi- leges. Prefuming upon their opulence, in the year 1772 they rofe up againft a reform, prg- pofed by the government, of the irregular troops ; they were, however, foon reduced to obedience. The year following a part of them joined the crew of the famous rebel Yemelyan Pugatlhef. On the reftoration of tranquillity F F 3 the 438 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. the government reftored to them their pofief- fions and privileges ; but in order to efface the memorial of this rebellion, the name of thefe Kozaks, that of their capital, and of the river xvhere they dwelt were abolifhed, and changed for thofe they bear at prefent. Since that time their political confutation has got a fomewhat different form, to prevent the like misfortunes in future. Their number is computed to be about 30,000 men fa to bear arms, and they keep up a corps properly equipped of 12,000 men, among whom, however, arc many Tartars and baptized Kalmuks. Their proper homeftead is along the right more of the Ural, from t.he mouth of the Ilek to the Cafpian; where, befides their grand capital Uralfk, they poffefs the important town of Gu- Tief on the Cafpian, and perform fervice in the line of forts on the Ural againfl the Kirghifes. On the left or kirghifian fide of the Ural they have only the fmall fort Iletzk on the Ilek, vvhich is inhabited by an independent colony detached from the majn body. Their territory, vvhich extends in length 89 geographical miles, yet forms no particular divifion in the political geography of the empire, (like the homeileads of the Kozaks of the Don and the Euxine,) but jpejongs to the government of Caucafus. Their SLAVONIANS. Their conftitution, in the .main, refembles that of the other Kozaks. Their officers ferve without any farther pay than what they all re- ceive from the crown, and which amounts yearly, for the whole hoft, to 5000 rubles ; but they have feveral privileges in the nlhery annexed to their rank. The people generally make choice of perfons of good condition, though fometimes .of quite common Kozaks, who ftand in fome of credit with the reft. The common men, when -they remain at home, receive am- munition every year from the crown, and when they march, the ordinary pay. . They carry the .arms generally ufed by the Kozaks ; but their .weapons, horfes, and riding-gear are particu- larly good. Before the commotions in 1 774, when any thing was to be publifhed or performed, .the people were aflembled round the town-houfe, whence the commanders came forth with their infignia,; and, the yefiaul having previoufly commanded fi.lence, opened their propofals. To which the people, with great vociferation, re- plied : We are content I or p We are not content with it ! or both at once,. At prefenx no fteps can be taken and nothing refolved on without ihe approbation of the commandants j and con- no more confultations are held, F F 4 44Q NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. The chief town Uralfk ftands on the high right-hand fhore of the river Ural, in 5 1 de- grees 10 min. north lat. comprehending, within an inclofure of a flight earth-wall, about 3000 houfes buiit of the white poplar and other kinds of wood. In 1771 there were 4000 Kozaks in- rolled for fervice ; but all the inhabitants toge- ther amounted to about 15,000, and the leffer towns collectively might make up nearly the fame number. Thofe that ferve are diflributed Into companies of a hundred to each. As to their livelihood, they are a fifher-folk, but certainly one of the vvealthieft and moft warlike of any in the world. The breeding and management of cattle has, in their mild climate, and their dry fleppes, every pciiible advantage. Accordingly they keep great num- bers of cattle ; and many a common Kozak has on his farm *, which lie difperfed along the ftreams and rivers to the diftance of 100 verfls from Uralfk, a flock of from 200 to 300 horfes, not fewer horned cattle, and a greater number of flieep. Their horfes and kine are of the ruffian fpecies ; but the fheep moflly a mixture of the broad-tailed kirghifian, the mort-tailed ruffian, 2nd the common european, which run all toge- * Chutori. ther. SLAVONIANS. 441 ther, and thereby degenerate to the ordinary european fpecies. One difficulty attending the management of cattle here, is, that, on account of the depredations of the Kirghiftzi, and the thieveries of the Kalmuks, they muft be guarded by fhepherds armed and on horfeback. For agriculture they have but little opportunity ; but fruit fucceeds fo well in thefe parts, that the orchards on the banks of the rivers look like little forefts. Water-melons, or arboufes, if they be watered at proper times, thrive fur- prifmgly in the dry fteppes, and efpecially un- der the culture of the Kiefilbafhes. They fetch their corn acrofs the fteppes, a diftance of from 500 to 800 verfts from Samara, Syfran, &c. on the Volga, and therefore eat dear bread. Of trade, profefllons, and the feveral kinds of me- chanical employments, they are fo little fond, that pedlars and workmen, pafling to and fro on their journies through this country, even fhoemakers and taylors, are fure at all times to find a flourifhing bufmefs with them. Some Kozaks have bee-ftages in the woods by the fide of the rivers, feveral to the amount of 50 hives. The chace yields antelopes * in abundance, and $rplves, foxes, fwine, &c. more fparingly. Hunts * Saip. NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. ing, with the Kozaks, is more a paftime than a bufmefs. The river Ural is rich to an extraordinary Degree in thofe fifli which afcend it from the Caf- pian; efpecially the various kinds of fturgeon. The Kozaks make three fiming-feafons in the year. In January they fifh with hooks *. This is principally confined to the belluga f, which in fome parts of the river lie in heaps as if piled on one another, .and gulp the Jiook the moment it prefents jtfelf before them, by which they are jdrjawn without any farther trouble on the ice ; ;and, together with flerlet, the common fturgeon is taken in great quantities. In the fpring feafon they fifli with nets, in which they principally catch fevruga, a particular fmall fort of fturgeon j, and in autumn alfo with nets, when all forts of fifh are taken. Every fifhing feafon is opened by the firing of cannons ; on which the Kozaks affemble, hear the fiming-laws read, and then run overjoyed to the places wfiere they intend to fifli. Only fuch Kozaks as actually ferve are allowed to fim, and thefe cannot employ any afliftant. The officers may fend two, three, or four men, according to their rank. Even to the ftfhery the Kozaks go armed, on account of th * Bagri. f Acipenler hufo Linn. + Acipenfer ftellatus Pall. frequent SLAVONIANS. 443 frequent attacks of the Kirghifians. At the iifhing feafons of autumn and winter, dealers come from almoft all parts of Ruffia, and buy fifh, caviar, and ifmglafs, for fpecie. In winter they tranfport the fifh hard-frozen ; in autumn and fpring they are falted, and as it were buried in J.ake-falt. The caviar is prepared immediately after the fifh are brought afhore, by feparating- the filmy fubftances from it. The lefs fait the better the caviar, but fo much the more liable to grow rancid and corrupt. The fim-trade is fo confiderable, that the whole army, in this iequeflered and unfruitful region, can not only live upon its profits in fpecie, but even grow rich and opulent by it. Befides thefe feafons, in October and Decem- ber they fifh particularly for fupplying the tables at the imperial court. The fifh caught in thefe months are fent by deputations, compofed of perfons of merit, to St. Peterfburg or Mofkcu The firft deputation brings from 60 to 100, the fecond upwards of 250 flurgeons ; for which the firft deputation receives a prefent of 800 rubles, and the latter a prefent of 1000 rubles. The Kozak-chancery takes the money, repays the travelling and carriage charges, and prefents the deputies with fabres mounted in filver ; the fceft of which, for the fpreman, cofts 40 or 50 444 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. rubles, each of thofe for the ftarfchins, 15 or 20, and thofe for the common men 9 rubles each. All the fabres have infcriptions on them. The women, as they neither fpin nor weave, but pay for what they wear, live lazily and well, but are regular and cleanly in their domeftic affairs, and take care to keep a good table, ex- cellent beer, mead, and brandy. Excepting that their clothes are of better materials, the Kozaks of the Ural drefs in all refpefts like thofe of the Don, and are only diftinguifhable by the peculiar form of their cap. The people pafs their time in one continued fcene of wanton, idle gaiety, not without licen- tioufnefs. From morning till night they are gadding about, babbling, fmging, and carouf- ing. At their marriages the young folks mu- tually prefent each other with their wedding- clothes. Before the bride a flag is borne to church, which flie follows covered with a veil. The feftivities on the occafion confift in dancing, fmging, and drinking, and running about the ftreet, the houfes being fo fmall they can only contain a few invited guefts to fit at table. The hufbands treat their wives with far more gentle- nefs and indulgence than is cuftomary among the Ruffians ; therefore they are free, gay, fhrewd,- and handfome; Their SLAVONIANS. 44$ Their irregular manner of living feldom ad- mits of their reaching to a very advanced age ; but they enjoy a good ftate of health as long as they live, fo that they have no regular phyficians among them. Surgeons, however, are fent to them from time to time to fet them to rights when the venereal infection rages in their diftricls. Excepting the Kozaks in Iletzkaia, who form a corps entirely feparate, all that inhabit the col- lateral towns are in fome refpe&s dependent on. the main-chancery, and are altogether fupported from the chief town. To thefe are added the indigent and infirm people ; and, as they are very much cramped in regard to the benefits of the fifhery by the principal corps, they are idle and fpiritlefs, but otherwife in drefs and manners they are completely in the tafte of the genuine Uralians. Each place has its ataman, its other officers, and its peculiar chancery. The laft, and in its origin the moll remarkable branch of the great donfkoi family, that we mall, here mention, are the siBERiAN-Kozaks. Infti- gated by a difpofition to roaming and to pillage, coniiderable multitudes of donfk.oi-Kozaks, in the fixteenth century abandoned their horneilead on the Don, in order to rob and plunder the coun- tries lying eaftward. In their predatory expe- ditions 440* NATIONS OF THE ditions they were not only dangerous to the newly-acquired ruffian pofleffions on the Volga, but they even ventured to embark on the Cafpian, where as enterprifmg pirates they foon became formidable to all the bordering nations. At the time that defolating fwarms of robbers were fpreading terror on every fide, Ivan II. fat upon the ruffian throne. The efforts of this prince to reftore order and fecurity to the provinces he had conquered from the Tartars, and to give vigour to the commerce with the neighbouring afiatic nations, had fcarcely ftruck root, when the flagitious fpirit of depredation on the part of the Kozaks threatened to fruftrate his faired hopes. He, therefore, in the year 1577, afiem- bled a confiderable army and got together a fleet of fhips to chaflife thefe audacious hordes, and to reflrain them for ever within the bounds of duty. Panic-ftruck at thefe mighty preparations, the robbers difperfed and fled into the neighbour- ing regions. A company of between 6 and 7000, proceeded, under the conduct of their ataman Yermak Timofeiyef, along the rivers Kama and Tfchuflbvaiya, onwards to Permia, and afcended the Ural mountains. Here Yermak faw before him the immenfe tradl of country which we now call Siberia; unknown wildernefies and ferocious tribes, never feeu by the reft of mankind, feemed ne<;efiarily SLAVONIANS. 447 necefiarily to fet bounds to his farther progrefs ; but animated by courage, and delighted with the bold idea of being here the founder of a new and extenfive empire, Yermak, with his handful of armed companions, marched down the fide of the Ural chain, defeated the tartar khan Kutf- chum, prefled forwards to the Tobol and to the Irtifh, and to the Oby, and fubjugated on this aftonifhing expedition, Tartars, Vogouls, and Oftiaks. Fortune had done much for Yermak, and Yermak had done every thing he could for being worthy of his fuccefs, but me denied him the enjoyment of his heroic enterprife. His little army, wafted by battles and fatigues, was not fufficient to maintain a tract of fo many thoufamf fquare miles, and to keep in obedience fuch a- number of conquered nations. In the impofli- bility of completing his conqueft by the eftabiifli- ment of a ftate, he refohed at leaft to refeue from oblivion the memorial of his achievement, by raifing for pofterity an indelible monument of the boldnefs of his genius. He accordingly in 1581 made over his conquefts by a formal capitulation to tzar Ivan ; who, in return for this important fervice rendered to the country, abfolved him from all refponfibility for his former undertakings to the detriment of it, and nobly rewarded his magnanimity and his talents. If NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. If ever a grand project was brought to effect by fmall and infignificant means, it was certainly in this conqueft of Siberia ; and if the man who was capable of conceiving it, and with fuch means of accompliming his purpofe, merits the appella- tion of a great man, then pofterity cannot refufe that name to the conqueror of Siberia. Yer- mak had not the good fortune to fee his plan of conqueft ripen to perfection. He died in 1584$ but after his death the difcovery and conqueft s were profecuted, by regiments of donikoi-Kozaks fent thither for that purpofe, as far as the eaftern ocean and the mountains of China ; and in the middle of the laft century this whole part of the world was already a ruffian province. As well thofe who were implicated in Yermak's rebellion, as the Kozaks who had more lately come to Siberia remained in that country as a militia to keep the reduced nations in obedience. Moft of them married with the natives of all nations ; many of thofe who came afterwards brought their families with them. This was the origin of the fiberian-Kozaks, whofe number at prefent far exceeds 1 00,000 ; but of whom the greater part carry on trades as burghers, and only about 14,000 do military duty as proper Kozaks. We pafs on now to the remaining branches of the flavoniaa ftock, which either wholly or in 1 1 part SLAVONIANS. 449 part are inhabitants of the ruffian empire j con- fining ourfelves to the moft finking refults in the account we fhall give of them, as the greater part have their own hiftories, which only in certain refpecls have any connection with our prefent plan. 2. Of the three flavonian nations, properly fo called, that are inhabitants of the ruffian empire, next to the principal nation, the POLES are the moft numerous. According to the ruffian year- books, (for domeftic accounts are here entirely wanting,) this people, at the fame time with the ruffian Slavi, and on the fame occafion,came from the Danube to the Viftula. Their ftate, now nearly extincl:, was probably founded in the ninth century ; though they firfl appear in hiftory only at the clofe of the tenth. Notwith- ftanding they fprung from one flock with the Ruffians, the two nations were almofl continually involved in hoflilities, now threatening the one, and now the other with definition, and which finally terminated in depriving the Poles of their exiflence as an independent nation. For render- ing the mutual relations of the two countries more perfpicuous, it will be neceffary to diflin- guifh two periods : the preponderance of the polifh flate over the ruined ruffian empire j and VOL. i. G G the 45 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. the triumph of the latter, \vith its increafmg power, over the declining polifh republic. The former period dates its origin from the unfortunate battle on the Kolka, in \vhich the combined power of the ruffian princes was de- feated by the Tartars, and in its confequences brought Ruffia under the dominion of thefe furious conquerors. During the whole period of the tartarian oppreffion, and even for a long time after, the Poles and Lithuanians, lefs ha- rafled by the mongole-tartarian hordes, main- tained a decided fuperiority over the ruffian ftate, enfeebled by its partition and the abufes of a fo- reign fovereignty, and managed it fo profitably that they feized on a great part of the fined: provinces of that empire. The feveral principalities of Smo- lenfk, Polotfk, Tur, Vitepik, Lutzk, Briamfk, and Pereyaflavl, and the whole grand-dukedom of Kief, with various other tracls of country, the enumeration whereof would be tedious, fell, in thefe times of devastation, by force of arms, to Lithuania j and on the union of that ftate with the kingdom of Poland, became part of the polifh empire. After their emancipation from the tartarian yoke, it occurred to the ruffian princes to profecute their claims to the captured provinces j but the fortune of war is too change- able SLAVONIANS. 45! able always to favour the righteous caufe, and the greateft and fineft part of the loft territories remained with impunity in the hands of the ufurpers, who dared to abet by their arms the refiftance of feveral of the ruffian provinces againft the fovereignty of the empire. The domeftic difturbances which afterwards weakened Ruffia, notwithftanding the reftoration of the integrity and indivifibility of the empire, were ever furniming the Poles with pretence and occafion for meddling with its internal affairs. During the deplorable anarchy caufed by the falfe Demetriufes, they conftantly, by the fug- geftions of a refined and ambitious policy, took part with one or the other ufurper j and, when at length the polifh prince Vladiflaf was called by their influence to the ruffian throne, they not only recaptured Smolenfk, but even made them- felves mailers of Mofco. Indeed the election of a native prince, and the expulfion of the Poles from the capital reftored order and tranquillity to the empire ; but once more, and for the laft time, its independency was to be purctyafed. The peace which fecured the throne to the new tzar Michaila Romanof, and difmiiTed the Poles from Ruffia, obliged that prince to relinquifh the provinces of Smolenlk, Severia, and Tfcher- nigof. With this laft degradation, however, the G G 2 polifii 45^ NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. polifii influence ceafed ; the preponderance of this ftate was gradually declining, and the in- exorable Nemefis brought on the period when the Poles were obliged to do penance by a long feries of misfortunes, even to the diflblution of their national exiflence, for their miftaken or ill-fupported call to the di&ature of the north. Already under the fucceflbr of the politic but humiliated Michaila, Ruffia completed the wide circuit of her territories by reconquering her ravifhed provinces ; and the grand-dukedom of Kief, after a long feparatioii, united again with the parent-ftate. In proportion as Ruffia, by the vigorous transformations of Peter the great, in- creafed in inward flrength and outward confe- quence, Poland was finking, through the de- feels of an ill-organifed conftitution, into a politi- cal imbecility, the confequences whereof were but too foon vifible to the difadvantage of the nation. The caufes of this decline belong not to the plan of the prefent undertaking ; and the progrefs of the ruffian fuperiority, with the ulti- mate confequence of the unequal relation of the two flates, has been already mentioned in its mod eflential periods. According to the prefent flate of the ruffian empire, the Poles, excepting the chief nation, form the mofl confiderable part of the aggregate population. SLAVONIANS. 453 population. They are either by millions toge- ther in the governments of Polotfk, Mohilef, Minfk, Brazlau, Vofnefenfk, Podolia, Volhynia, Vilna, and Slonimik ; or in fmaller numbers as colonifts, in the circle of Selenghinfk, on the Jrtyfti, and in various other parts of the empire. The ruffian Poles, like all the nations of Ruffia, enjoy their belief, and the liberty of ex- ternal worfhip without any moleftation ; only they, no more than others, may not make pro- felytes from the greek church, nor hinder their brethren in the faith from voluntarily going over to the eftablifhed perfuafion. They enjoy more- over all the privileges of the predominant nation ; and obferve the manners and cuitoms of their own country, as clofely and as long as is agree- able to themfelves. As all thefe, no lefs than their exterior and moral character is already known from other writers, I pafs it by, with only this remark, that, the Poles being Slavonians as well as the Ruffians, both fpeaking the fame language, only in a very different dialect, and in character, manners, and ufages, having many things in common, the former more quickly affimilate with the latter than other nations of foreign extraction, fpeech, character, and man- ners ; fo as to incorporate as it were, and be united with them. 003 3. The 454 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. 3. The third ilavonian nation within the bor- ders of Ruflia, are the SERVIANS or SERBES, a branch of the illyrian Slavi. By the denomi- nation of Illyria, was originally underftood no more than the eaftern coaft o the Adriatic. In the fourth century the appellation of Great-Ill) ria fprung up, which comprehended almoft all the roman provinces in the eaftern part of Europe, between the Adriatic and the Danube, and even quite to Pontus. At prefent that country is divided by its fovereignties into the Venetian, Hungarian, and turkifh Illyria. Of the latter the kingdom of Servis. is a part, having received its name from the inhabitants. The Turks call it . Lafs VHayeti, or Lazarus-land, becaufe in the year 1365, when they fubdued it, Lazarus was prince of Serbia. It formerly confifted of two provinces, the proper Serbia and Rafcia, and the inhabitants were accordingly diftinguifhed into Serbians and Rafcians. The Servians and Raitzes in the ruffian empire are colonifls, to whom in the year 1754, a con- fiderable diftricl was allotted on the Dniepr near and upon the pofleffions of the zaporogian Kozaks. This country, which got the name of New Servia, was, for the moft part, an unin- habited defart, extending to the then polim borders, by which it was furrounded on three fid?*. SLAVONIANS. 455 fides. The Serbians who voluntarily fettled here in confiderable nunlbers, were formed into a military aflbciation, to be a check upon the diifenfions and exceffes of the Zaporogians. In the year 1764, the whole of this tract of country was ereded into the government of New Ruffia, and at prefent forms a confiderable part of the province of Ekatarinoflaf. There are flill two other tribes in the ruffian empire, which, notwithflanding the obfcurity of their origin, are fuppofed to be related to the Slavi. Thefe are, the LITHUANIANS and the LETTISH ; the latter alfo comprife the KURES among them. 4. The lettifh race, to which the Lettes, LI- THUANIANS, and old-Pruffians belong, was not a primitive flock, as the finnifh, the germanic, or llavonian, but a diflinct branch, now become incognizable, of the Slavi, which at the fame time evinces a near affinity with the Vendi. The conformity of the lettifh with the flavonian and old vendifh language, and the famenefs of their antient mythology, gives to this fuppofition a high degree of probability. The appellative Litva, by.which the Lithuanians call themfelves, is found in Neflor's chronicle fo early as the eleventh century, who enumerates the Lithua- o G 4 nians 456 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. nians among the nations tributary to the ruffian monarchy ; which could not find means to render itfelf an independent nation till the time when dangerous inteftine divifions fprang up in Ruffia under the fucceffbrs of Vladimir the great. She freed then herfelf from the ruffian fupremacy, en- larged her borders at the expence of her former matters, and at length grew to be a power, formidable alike to all her neighbours. In the thirteenth century Ringold firft appears under the title of a fovereign grand-duke. His fort Mendog profited by the tartarian incurfions into Ruffia for marching forth to make conquefts here : under him and his fucceflbrs the whole of lithuanian Ruffia, together with Volhynia and other provinces *, fell off by degrees from Great Ruffia. Gedemin, one of the moft renowned of thefe princes, drove the Tartars out of Kief, and fubjecled that grand-dukedom to him. Yaghello, one of his fuccefibrs, of another race, caufed himfelf to be baptized in 1386, married the polifh queen Hedvig, and united Lithuania in perpetuity to the ftate of Poland ; in confe- quence of which union the conquered ruffian provinces devolved to that kingdom. Since that * Sec the article, Ruffia and Poland. period SLAVONIANS. 457 period Lithuania has conftantly followed the for- tunes of Poland ; and, with the gradual ex- tin&ion of it, has likewife fallen a prey to her flronger and powerful neighbours. At the partition of the year 1773 Lithuania furnifhed the whole fhare which Ruffia at that time obtained, and out of which the prefent viceroyal- ties of Mohilef and Polotfk are formed. la the fubfequent partition of the year 1793, this grand-duchy again loft 1731 fquare miles and 850,000 fouls, which now belong to the vice- royalty of Minfk ; but the larger portion which Ruflia got on this occafion, was taken from Little-Poland. In the final partition of the year 1 795, the laft remains of Lithuania alfo fell to the ruffian empire, of which at prefent the vice- royalties of Vilna and Slonimfk are compofed. Thefe provinces of the ruffian empire are there- fore thofe in which Lithuanians refide, but the number of people of which this nation confifts can hardly be given with any degree of accu- racy, as they are every where mingled with Ruffians and Poles. 5. The LETTES were originally one people with the Lithuanians. Both nations fpoke the fame language, (as even at prefent the lettifh can only be confidered as an altered dialed of the lithuanian,) and their very names feem in 458 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. fact to be the fame *. Till towards the end of the twelfth century Livonia or Lettland was en- tirely unknown to the german hiftorians ; it is mentioned only by Danes, Swedes, and Ruf- fians : by the two former on occafion of their piracies, and by the Ruffians for denoting their dominion over that country. The provinces on the Baltic, now known by the names of Livonia, Efthonia, Kurland, and Semigallia, belonged in the earlieft times to the ruffian ftate, and had even a mare in the found- ing of it. Neftor f, the oldeft and moft au- thentic ruffian annalift, .names at lead among the tributary nations, Litva, Semigola, Kors, and * We find in the accounts of the middle ages the follow- ing denominations u fed without diflinction : Letthania, Lett- hovia, Litthavia, Litfonia, Lottavi, Litthvini, Letthovini, Litthvaai, Lettones, &c. Probably the Lettes obtained their particular name from their firft homeftead. In the circle of Valk, not far from the town of Venden, a river named Leete takes it rife. This river is called in lettifh la Latte y and a Lette is in their language Latvis, a man living by the river Latte. It is not unlikely that LittgaUia y fo frequently mentioned in the annals, is from the fame origin. Leltis means in lettim a Lithuanian, and gals the end, therefore the country which borders on Lithuania. Tann,-2us, hift. of Livonia and Efthonia, vol. i. p. 17. f See an account of Neftor and his chronicle, &c. in the Seleftions from foreign literary Journals, printed for Dtbrett, 2 vols. 8vo. vol. ii. p. 293, & fqsj. Lif: SLAVONIANS. 459 Lif: that he does not exprefsly mention the Lettes may probably proceed from their not be-i ing at that time a particular nation diflinct from the Lithuanians. The dominion of the Ruffians over thefe nations is thenceforward confirmed by feveral additional teftimonies. When the Germans had fettled in Livonia, Meinhard did not dare publicly to preach, till Vladimir, grand- duke of Polotzk had firft granted him permif- fion ; " becaufe (as Henry the Lette affirms) the " heathenifh inhabitants were tributary to him," It is obferved by the fame native chronicler, that the Lettgallians are of the greek religion ; and that the Ruffians in feveral places baptized the heathens. In the year 1209 bifhop Albert openly mewed the fupremacy of the ruffian grand- dukes, when in a treaty of commerce, which he entered upon through the teutonic knight Arnold, he gives fecurity for the payment of the cuftomary taxation, and in the year 1211, at the treaty of peace with Vladimir, he com- pletely concedes the tribute. Certain as it is, from thefe and many other indubitable teftimonies, that the diftricts inha- bited by Lettes on the Baltic (or on the varagian fea, as the ruffian annals fay) already belonged to Ruffia in the earlieft periods of its monarchy ; it neverthelefs appears, that Livonia had then no fettled 460 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. fettled conftitution, nor was bound to the pa- rent (late by any firm political tie. Satisfied if the tributary nations only paid their tribute, the ruffian grand-dukes, according to the cuftom of the age, left the civil conftitution to the inclina- tion of the Lettes, who therefore knew of no other magiftracy than their elders, whom they flill, from the flavonian term Starfchina, ftyle Starofts : the Ruffians even made no oppofition to the attempts of foreign conquerors, who were beginning to erect a new fovereignty here. Thus it happened, that thefe countries, particularly during the civil diifentions which preyed upon the vitals of Ruffia, gradually quitted their loofe connection with that empire, and could not afterwards, notwithftanding the repeated efforts of the ruffian princes, be brought back to a re- union, till Peter the great revived the claim which belonged to his flate from the very foundation of it in the true import of the word, and indeed by a transfer from the people. To the reft of Europe Livonia remained gene- rally unknown, till in the year 1158 it was dif- covered by fome merchants of Bremen on their fearch for new branches of commerce towards the north. Thefe mariners landed at the mouth of the Duna, opened a trade with the inhabit- ants, returned thither feveral times, and at length SLAVONIANS. 461 length proceeded, with the confent of the na- tives, along the more of the Duna, many miles up the country. About eighteen years after the difcovery, an auguftine monk, named Mem- hard, fettled in Livonia, who made the Livo- nians chriflians, and himfelf their bifhop, where- upon many Germans at various times were in- duced to repair thither alfo. Towards the end of that century, Knut VI. king of Denmark, made an expedition to Efthonia, got pofieffion of that province, and provided the converted in- habitants with priefts and churches. For con- quering and keeping Livonia, the bifhop in the year 1201 founded the order of the Swordr brethren, a fort of knights Templars, and grant- ed them the third part of the country with all rights and fovereignty. Thefe knights were all Germans, who converted the natives to chrifti- anity with great fuccefs, though not without bloodmed, and made them their vaffals. They afterwards united themfelves with the teutonic order in PrufTia, to whom Valdimar III. king of Denmark, in the year 1386, fold Efthonia for the fum of 18,000 marks of ftandard gold. In the year 1521 the livonian heermeifter Pletten- berg again feparated from the teutonic order, and was admitted by the emperor Charles V. among the princes of the german empire. The attempts 462 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. attempts made by tzar Ivan II. to reconquer thefe provinces yhich had been torn from the ruffian empire, and the weaknefs of the order, which felt itfelf not in a capacity to refill fo powerful an enemy, at length in 1561 effected the complete ' feparation of the livonian ftate. Efthonia put itfelf under the protection of Sweden, Livonia united with Poland, and Cour- land was a peculiar dukedom under polifh fu- premacy, which the laft heermeifler Gotthard Kettler held as a fief of that crown. From this sera Livonia became the unhappy object of contention, for which Sweden, Ruffia and Poland, for an entire century, were conti- nually exhaufling themfelves in bloody wars. During this period it had once nearly become a peculiar kingdom * ; but Sweden at laft got the upperhand , and, at the peace of Oliva in 1 660, * Among the attempts made by tzar Ivan to obtain the fovereignty of Livonia, one was by making an offer to the danifh prince Magnus, in the year 1596, of this country under the title of a kingdom, referving to himfelf the pa- ramount lordmip, and an inconfiderable annual tribute. This propofal was enforced by a ruffian army of 25,000 men ; and Magnus for a time aftually ftyled himfelf king of Livonia. This proje&, however, by the war which broke out upon it with Sweden and Poland, terminated fo unfortunately, that Ivan even loft his own pofTeflions in Li- vonia, and Magnus obtained the bifhopric of Pilten during his natural life. 9 added SLAVONIAN'S. 463 added this province to the pofieffion of Eflhonia. Both countries finally, after a war of twenty years, came to the Ruffians by the treaty of Nyftadt in 1721, and form at prefent the "vice- royalties of Riga and Reval. The events of the duchy of Courland till the year 1561, are interwoven with the hiftory of Livonia, as, from the time of its conqueft by the knights of the crofs, it conftituted a part of the livonian flate. Gotthard Kettler, as above re- lated, fnatched from its ruins the new-ere&ed dukedom as his proper fpoil ; and, from that period Courland appears in hiftory as a peculiar ftate. On the extinction of Kettler's male race the eftates of Poland endeavoured to fieze upon Courland as a lapfed fief, and to unite it imme- diately with the kingdom ; but the courifh nobi- lity preferved to themfelves, by the aid of the ruffian court, the right of electing a new duke. Their choice in 1737 fell on count Erneft John von Biren, who was fucceeded in the govern- ment by his fon Peter. As, on the total dif- folution of the kingdom of Poland, the feudal connexion with it fell off of courfe, and the duchy, in its declining condition, thinking it could not fubfift without a more powerful pa- tronage, the eftates of the country agreed in the year 464 JTATIOKS OF THE EMPIRE. year 1795 by a free refolution * to confider the feudal conftitution as demolifhed, and uncondi- tionally to fubmit themfelves to the emprefs of Rufiia. Their example was followed by the bifliopric of Pilten which had flood immediately under the crown of Poland. The fate of polifh Livonia deferves a brief notice here. This tract of country, which, un- der the government of the teutonic order, form- ed likewife a part of the livonian ftate, reverted in the year 1561, with the whole province of that name, to Poland. At the peace of Oliva, by which Livonia came under the fove- reignty of Sweden, this fole diftricl: however re- mained to the polifh ftate, retaining from that time its name in contradiftinction to fwedifh Li- vonia. On the partition of 1773, this country, which had hitherto conftituted its particular voivodefhip, was annexed to Ruflia, and now comprehends the two circles of Dunaburg and Refitza in the viceroyalty of Polotfk. We will now once more furvey the traces of the ruffian empire which are inhabited by Lettes. The homeftead of this nation is not the whole of Livonia, but only a part of it which is called * Sec Life of the Emprefs Catharine II. vol. iii. Lettlaftd ; SLAVONIANS. 465 Lettland * ; the Kures in Courland, Semigallia, and the bifhopric of Pilten are true Lettes ; by whom, in part, the lettifh language is fpoken in the greateft purity : but this people is moflly degenerated in polifh Livonia, where they are mixed with Poles and Ruffians f. The number of them at prefent, for want of proper ftate- ments, cannot be accurately ascertained ; but in, the viceroyalty of Riga alone, there were up- wards of 226,000 Lettes, according to the laft cenfus. At prefent they are no longer known as a fepa- rate people ; they were mingled by imperceptible degrees, and at laft blended with the Lettes, the Efthes, and the Coures, or, as we ufually call them, the Lettonians, the Eflhonians, and Cour- landers. The moft vifible remnant of them is at Salis, where, in converfation with others, in the churches and fchools, they fpeak the lettifh language ; but in their houfes and among them- felves they ufe the antient lievifli. The Liefs * Livonia, or the prefent viceroyalty of Riga, confifts of nine diftri&s or circles, of which four compofe what is properly termed Lettland. The remaining five circles are inhabited by Ellhonians f- Even the nobility, which, as in all the other parts of the antient livonian ftate, is originally german, has, under the polifh fupremacy difufed the german language, and adopted that of the Poles. VOL. i. H H that 466 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. that were fome time ago difcovered on the fea-mores in Courland have been thought, and not without reafon, to be run-away boors from Salis. To conclude, in regard to their exterior there is now no vifible difference between them and the Lettes. The Lettes, or Lettonians, a people always peaceable, induftrious, hofpitable, frugal, and of fomewhat better difpofitions than the Eftho- nians, inhabited the greater part of the Venden diftrict, and extended themfelves even into Dor- pat ; and therefore it is, that the chronicles mention the Lettes in Ungannia. That they were at all times a nation entirely diftinct from the Liefs and Efthes is evinced by their lan- guage, fome particular cufloms, the general con- currence of hiftory, and the implacable hatred of the two lalt-mentioned nations againft them, which they were conftantly exercifing in fcorn and oppreflion. That averfion even ftill feems not to be extinct ; for the Liefs that live among them do not willingly intermarry with them, and the Efthes are very apt to deride and defpife them. Their origin has been at one time fought for among the grecian, and at others among the farmatian tribes. Without meddling with the controverfy whether they were formerly called Latzians, SLAVONIANS. 467 Latzians, or were driven out by the Perfians, we perceive by their language, that they are of affinity with the Courlanders, or Coures, and properly of lithuanian, or in general of ilavo- nian origin. In their language we find a mix- ture of other people, as it contains many words borrowed from the ruffian, the polifh, the eftho- nian, the german, and even fome apparently from the latin ; which may be accounted for from their derivation, their migrations, and their mixture with other people. At prefent they occupy two diftrifts, which both together, after them, are called Lettland. By the augment- ation they received from the Liefs, (now reckon- ed with the Lettes,) the Vendes, the Lettgalli- ans, and the Efthonians, they are now more nu- merous than they were in the twelfth century. The Lettes call themfelves Latweetis. The Lithuanians live in the government of Polotfk and Moghilef: they, as well as the Let- tonians, are intermixed with Slavonians and Finns, but chiefly with the latter, and are of the fame confeflion with the Poles. H H 2 SECTION II. Finns. A SECOND main flem of the nations dwelling in RufTia is that of the FINNS, of which, though not one branch (the Hungarians excepted, if we choofe to reckon them among them) has ever rifen to a ruling nation ; yet, as the common flock of moft of the northern nations of Eu- rope, is exceedingly remarkable for its antiquity and its wide extent, from Scandinavia to a great diftance in the afiatic regions of the north ; and thence again to the mores of the Volga and the Cafpian. Difperfed as all the finnifh nations are in this prodigious fpace, yet the refemblance, in bodily frame, in national character, in lan- guage, and in manners is preferved. It is fcarcely lefs remarkable, that the generality of the finnifh races flill dwell only in the north, which has ever been their favourite abode, and on which account they are likewife called inhabitants of inoraffes or fens ; and the chace and the fifhery have ever been with each of them their chief occupation and trade. So great a refemblance feems to leave us in no doubt concerning the common defcent of the nations that fall under this divifion of our work ; which of them, how- ever, is properly the parent flock, can hardly be decided. The aboriginal name FINNS, already known FINNS. 469 known to Tacitus, is in ufe with none of thefe nations ; but they call themfelves by a different appellation. As uncertain as the proper and original denomi- nation of this people is, not Jefs obfcure are alfo their origin and the early events that befel them. None of thefe nations, fome of them of very great antiquity, numerous, and far extended, (the Magyares excepted,) has ever played a conlpicu- ous part on the theatre of the world ; no one of them has ever acquired a lading indepen- dency, or produced a hero : but they have all, as far back as authentic hiftory reaches, been a prey to their more enterprifmg and powerful neighbours. Accordingly they have no chro- nicles of their own ; and their hiftory is only to be found in the annals of their conquerors. On taking a furvey of the whole extent of Scandinavia and Ruflia, which is ftored with fmnifh nations, it is eafy for the mind to con- ceive how the parent ftem might come from the borders of Afia to the Baltic, then to have roamed along the northern coaft of that fea, arid to have fpread on both fides of it deep into the fouth, till in procefs of time it penetrated, here by Lettes and Slavonians, there by german Scan- dinavians, far into the north. But probable as this hypothefis may be, few data for its con- firmation are to be met with in hiftory. It H H 3 names 470 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. names to us, indeed, from the ninth and the twelfth centuries, the Permians, the Finns, the Laplanders, and a few other tribes, which now are no longer known, or at lead folely by their names : but even of thefe we find only fcattered accounts in the annals of the people who were concerned in trade with them ; and the other finnifh races on the Volga and in Siberia have not been difcovered till the recent progrefs of the Ruffians into thofe parts. All therefore that is known of their antient hiftory is this, that they poffefied the greater part of Scandinavia and Ruffia in the north, and feparated into feveral tribes, which either lived entirely without any government, or, like the Permians and proper Finns, under their own kings. All thefe were gradually fubjugated by three nations, under the dominion of whom they (till remain : the Nor- wegians, the Ruffians, and the Swedes. The NORWEGIANS were the firft who fubjefted a part of the finnifh north. Finmark has ever been tributary to them ; yet it appears that long before the commencement of the tenth century, the whole tract from Vardhuys to the White-fea was independent of them ; and that only the re- moter Finns about the gulfs of Bothnia and Finland, and on the Dvina, obtained their national freedom. The enterprifing Norwegians were not content with letting out tha conquered countries FINNS. 471 countries to vafials, but they advanced to the independent diftri&s, particularly to Permia, partly for the fake of commerce, and partly for the purpofes of rapine and fpoil. Thefe expe- ditions to Permia, which in time became regularly made every year, were firft checked by the in- curfions of the Mongoles into Ruffia, and at length entirely ceafed, when the princes of Nov- gorod made themfelves mafters of that country, and the commerce of thofe parts. The fecond nation which difperfed itfelf in the fmnifh parts of the north, were the RUSSIANS ; \vho, though at firft, on their fettling about .the Volkhof, lived on good terms with their neigh- bours the Tfchudes or Finns, and even ele&ed a government conjointly with them, yet they afterwards, later than the Norwegians, and earlier than the Swedes, conquered and fubdued them. Karelia, together with a part of Kexholm, feems to have been the firft diftrict of which the Ruffians of Ingria made themfelves mafters. Wherefore all the ruffian Finns, even fuch as neither in regard to their place of habitation nor their defcent were Karelians, but not till a later period were maftered by the Ruffians, were formerly called by the Norwegians Kyrialians. The Ruffians at firft had nothing but the region about the gulf of Finland, or on the Kyrialabotn, and about the Ladoga lake, quite up to the H H 4 White- 472 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. Whiie-fea. They afterwards fpread farther round in thefe defert countries, where nothing was fixed by ftated limits, and fubjected to them a part of Finland. On the incurfion of the Mongoles, the expeditions of the Norwegians to Permia ceafed : and now the Novgorodians be- gan alfo to fpread themfelves farther to the north ; and in the fourteenth century Permia was con- verted to the chriflian faith by biihop Stephen. Probably at the fame time fome Permians fled acrofs the White-fea to efcape this fiery zeal for making profelytes ; and thus gave the Ruffians, \vho purfued their fugitives, the firfl occafion for eftablifhing themfelves in Lapland. The latter now foon began to quarrel with the norwegian bailiffs, whofe bufmefs it was to collect the tribute in thefe parts. They proceeded to acts of violence, and war began on the borders ; when the Ruffians, who were nearer and more powerful, obtained the advantage. They took in the fequel, not only all Lappmark round Kola, but proceeded fo far as to levy a tribute on the Finns in the prefent Finmark, and of thofe who dwelt in Trumfen as far as Malahger. The other finnim nations in the cad, on the Volga and in Siberia, became fubject to them, with their gradual extenfion in thefe regions, by the con qu eft of the tartar kingdoms and the dif. covery of Siberia. The FINNS. 473 The SWEDES were the laft who founded a fovereignty in the finnifh parts of the north. It was not till the middle of the twelfth century that Erik the faint fubjugated and converted the proper Finns ; a hundred years afterwards the Swedes fet foot in Tavaftland ; towards the end of the thirteenth century they eftablifhed them- felves in Karelia ; and about the fame time the Laplanders were alfo reduced to their obedience. Thus then the whole of the finnifh north was partitioned among three fovereigns, and the nation itfelf was removed from the rank of in- dependent people. We now leave the ftationary point from which we furveyed the whole of its territory, becaufe henceforward there are nor- wegian, fwedifh, and ruffian Finns, and only the lad are here the object of our attention. Of the thirteen tribes into which the finnifh flock divided, twelve belong either wholly or in part to the inhabitants of the ruffian empire, namely, the Laplanders, the Finns, the Eflhonians, the Livo- nians, Tfcheremifles, Tfchuvafches, Mordvines, Votiaks, Permiaks, Suryanes, Vogouls, and Kondifh Oftiaks. The Madfhares alone *, the great * Magyar, as they call themfelves, or Ugrians, as they arc termed in the ruffian year-books, of which the modern Europeans have made Hungarians. Schloetzer reckon* no more than twelve furaifh nations, for he excludes the Tfchuvafche 474 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. great mafs of the mixed multitudes whom we at prefent call Hungarians, are the only fmnifh nation which belongs not to Ruffia, and alfo the only one that has preferved its national inde- pendence. i. The LAPPES or LAPLANDERS inhabit the extremities of the fcandinavian parts of the north- eaftward to the White-fea, between the 65th and the 75th degr. of north lat. Saxo Gram- maticus, an hiftorian of the twelfth century, mentions them firft under this name, which fig- nifies a forcerer, and was given them by the Swedes ; having been formerly comprifed under the general denomination of Quenlanders or Kayanians. They call themfelves Sabme-ladzh, (in the plural number Same,) and their country Same-ednam. The modern Lapland, a country abounding in mountainous forefls and lakes, is divided into the norwegian, fwedifh, and ruffian Lapland. To Norway belongs the north-weflern, to Sweden the fouthern, and to Ruffia the eaftern part. Tfchuvafches from that flock, though he formerly joined " them with it. Even this critical inquirer into hiftory thinks the Finns an eviropean parent-dock, (according to the in- terpretation which he gives to thefe words, guos aliunde vnnjje nulla memoria ejl,} as they poflefs almoft the whole north of Europe, from Norway as far as the Ural ; whereas the afiatic Finns feem to be only branches broken off. According FINNS. 475 According to the political diftribution of the ruffian empire, ruffian Lapland forms only one circle of the viceroyalty of Archangel, the chief town of which is Kola, and is about i ooo verfts in diameter. The number of the ruffian Lap- landers, called by the Ruffians Lopari, amounts to not much above 1 200 families. When and in what manner this people probably came under the ruffian government has been already noticed. Schober, in his Memorabilia Ruffico-Afiatica, relates the ftory of a Laplander, who had lived Come time at Aflrakhan*. This Laplander, on account of his uncommonly capacious memory, was the wonder of his time. He had been pri- vately ftolen away from his native country, when very young, and brought up at Stockholm; Charles XI. fent him afterwards, with a confider- able ftipend, to Wittenberg, in order to fludy theology. It was thought he might be ufefully employed as a miffionary to preach the gofpel to the Laplanders in their own tongue. Having finifhed his academical ftudies, he returned to Stockholm ; where, on being examined at court, he was found to fpeak latin readity, though in general faultily. He preached without hefitation, * He is alfo fpoken of by Weber, in vcranderten Ruff- land, vol. ii. p. 165. but 476* NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. but alfo without fenfe. The mmiflry of Stock- holm thought him capable of undertaking, under the divine blefEng, the work of converfion in his own country, and ordained him accordingly to make profelytes in Lapland. The converter of the heathen being arrived among his countrymen, found that rein-deer- milk and dried fifh were no longer to his palate. Scarcely had he been there half a year, but he mounted a rein-deer, forfook his miferable coun- try, prefented himfelf at Stockholm in the drefs of a common Laplander, and got a few pence from the populace by making a mow of his beaft. Falling into extreme contempt by this degrading employment, he determined to repair to Denmark. About the year 1704, he made his entry into Copenhagen, fitting on his rein- deer, amidft a prodigious concourfe of -people. He was conducted to the prefence of the king, to whom he gave himfelf out for a lapland prince: the people of the court made merry with him, and kept him generally drunk with wine and brandy. Under the fame title he travelled into Germany, vifited the principal courts, and was feldom fober. From Germany he proceeded to France, where, in one month he learnt the french language, and received very handfome prefents from Lewis XIV. j thence he returned to FINNS. 477 to Germany; and then traverfmg Poland, he came into Ruflia. He had been only fix weeks in St. Peterfburg, when he was able to exprefs himfelf with tole- rable facility in the ruffian language, even fo as to preach in it before Peter the great, the arch- bifliop of the province, and the great officers of (late. The emperor beftowed on him a yearly penfion of 250 rubles, and fent him to Aftrak- han, in order to learn the tartarian language, which confifting of various dialefts, is accord- ingly very difficult. He was actually mafter of it in a very fhort time fo as to fpeak it fluently. But, living very loofely in Aftrakhan, and being frequently feen lying afleep in the ftreets, drunk and fenfelefs ; he was one day taken up by the Kalmuks, and privately conveyed out of town. He Was brought before the khan Ayuka. The khan ordered his crown to be {haven in the manner of the Kalmuks, had him dreffed in the kalmuk faihion, arid gave him two wives, both of whom were foon pregnant by him. He had hardly been four weeks among thefe people, ere he not only underftood them, but alfo in cafe of neceffity would talk intelligibly to them. The Kalmuks gave him horfes, took him with them on their hunting-parties, lived, ate, and played with him, and had not the ilighteft idea that 5 he 47^ NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. he would ever quit them. But as foon as he faw an opportunity, he made his efcape, and re- turned to Aflrakhan. In this place he afterwards made himfelf mafter of the perfian, and the language of the fubjects of the great Mongole ; he alfo fpoke the modern greek: but his difiblute life, and his daily drunken- nefs, cut him off in the flower of his age. Saxo Grammaticus, who flourimed about the clofe of the twelfth century, is the firft writer that fpeaks of this country and its inhabitants ; but, fays M. de Voltaire, it was not till the fix- teenth century that we began to get any rude knowledge of Lapland, concerning which even the Ruffians, the Danes, and the Swedes had but very faint notions. This vaft country, bordering on the pole, had only been noticed by the antient geographers under the names of the country of the Cynoce- phali, of the Himantopodes, of the Troglodytes, and of the Pygmies. Indeed we have learnt from the accounts given by both fwedifli and danifh authors, that the race of Pygmies is by no means fabulous ; for, that they had found them near the pole, in an idolatrous country, covered with mountains, rocks, and fnow, and overrun with wolves, elks, bears, ermines, and rein-deers. The FINNS. *179 The Laplanders, (continues M. de Voltaire,) from the univerfal teftimony of travellers, feem to have no relation to the Finns, from whom they are made to defcend, nor from any of the neighbouring people. The men in Finnland, in Norway, in Sweden, in Rufiia, are blonds, large and well-made ; Lapland produces none but men of three cubits in height, pale, fwarthy, with fhort, harm, and black hair; the fmallnefs of their head, their eyes, their ears, their nofe, their belly, their thighs, and their feet, diftinguifhes them entirely from all the people that furround their deferts. They feem to be a particular fpecies formed for the climate they inhabit, which they love, and which they alone could love. Nature, who has put rein-deer no where but in this country, feems to have produced the Laplanders there ; and, as their rein-deer are not in being elfe- where, neither do the Laplanders appear to have come from any other country. It is not probable, that the inhabitants of a country lefs favage mould have forced their way over moun- tains and deferts of ice, for the fake of traniplant- ing themfelves in regions fo barren, and fo dark, that it is impomble to fee clearly for three months in the year, and where the inhabitants muil be perpetually changing their ftations, in order 480 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. order to find the means of fubfiftence. A family may be thrown by a tempeft on a defert ifle, and may people it j but it is not natural to quit habitations on the continent which produce fome nourifhment, to go and fettle a great way off, upon rocks covered only with mofs, in a dreary region of inceflant frofts, amidfl precipices of ice and fnow, where there is no food but rein- deer *s milk and dried fifh, and debarred from all commerce with the reft of the world. Betides, if the Finns, the Norwegians, the Ruffians, the Swedes, the Icelanders, people as far to the north as the Laplanders, had emigrated to Lapland, would their figure have been abfo- lutely changed ? It mould feem then that the Laplanders are a new fpecies of men, who for the firft time prefented themfelves to our view and our obfervations in the fixteenth century, while Afia and America offered to our fight fuch numbers of other people, of whom we had no great knowledge. Thenceforward the fphere of nature has enlarged itfelf on all hands to us, and it is therefore that Lapland is become an objecl truly worthy of our obfervation. But to this it may be replied, that, if the natives of Lapland were of a different fpecies from other men, we muft admit the eternity of matter with the men born in different countries, and FINNS. 481 and begotten by others, without being able, whatever retrogradations we might make, to dif- cover their firll generation, unlefs we have re- courfe to the fiftion of the poets, for a people qui rupto robore natl, Compofitique luto, nullos habuere parentes. The information contained in the writings of Mofes apparently mews that thefe fyftems, with thofe that the antient philofophers have invented, on the origin of the human fpecies, are fo many fond conceits and falflioods. The greateil difficulty lies in knowing how the children of Adam and Eve, who were white, could poflibly have given birth to black men. But this difficulty has been folved in the pre- liminary difiertation to the Univerfal Hiftory, and in that of M. de Maupertuis on the white negro. They prove that the difference and the diverfity of climate, a greater or lefs diftance from the fun, &c. have produced this effecl: ; and it is what experience confirms, at lead by analogy. 2. The FINNS, in the ftrifter fignificafion, were already known by this name to Tacitus, which has been preferved by the geographers and hiftorians of later times, though without any ac- curate knowledge of the people. Properly they VOL. i. i i were 482 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. were not again difcovered till the year 1157, when the fwedifh king Erich the faint undertook their fubjugation and converfion. They call themfelves in their language Suoma-lainen, i. e. people who live in morafles ; and their coun- try Suomen-Sari, which fignifies a marfhy country with iflands. Whence the name Finns arofe is unknown *. By the Ruffians they are denominated Fini, but more ufually Tfchuchontzi or Maimifti, nafty people. The Ingrians, a par- ticular defcription of finnifli boors who have long dwelt amongft the Ruffians, and have adopted many of their cuftoms with their lan- guage, as well as the greek religion, are flill called in rufs Ifhorki, from the river Ifhora or Inger, from which Ingermanland or Ingria has its name. They live likewife in the neighbourhood of Valday and Beyetfk, and are generally of the lutheran communion. The country which is inhabited by this nation comprifes the north-eaftern corner of the bothnic and finnifh gulfs, interfperfed throughout with rocks, mountains, morafles, and lakes, between the 6oth and 65th deg. of north lat. its circum- ference being computed at 30,000 verfts. The greater part of it belongs to the kingdom of * So fays Schlcetzer. Georgi is of opinion that this is the gothic tranliation of Suoma. Sweden j FINNS. 483 Sweden ; the fmaller foiith-eaftern portion pof- feffed by Ruflia, contains Ingermanland, Kex- holm, and Karelia, forming the government of Viborg, and part of that of St. Peterfburg. That the Finns, in a very remote period, lived under their own kings, has been already feen, as well as that the Ruffians very early got firm foot- ing here, and formerly pofTefied far more than their prefent mare. In after-times thefe terri- tories were again loft ; and Michaila Romanof ceded to Sweden the laft ruffian pofleffions in Finn- land ; but, by the treaties of Nieftadt and Abo, Ruffia got back the forementioned part of it. In the government of Viborg the Finns make by far the greater part of the inhabitants, or more properly they are the people of the country. In moft of the circles of the Peterfburg-government, they, with the Ingrians, are likewife the main body of the population ; and in the governments of Tver and Novgorod they form confiderable colonies, which have long been fettled in thefe regions. The number of all the Finns living in Ruffia is not to be correctly afcertained j but they probably exceed 400,000 heads. This people and the Laplanders are moreover the only two finnifh nations, whofe lot has been caft under feveral fovereigns ; all the other branches 113 of 484 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. of this flock belonging exclufively to the ruffian empire. 3. On the fouthern coaft of the gulf of Finn- land, over againft Finnland proper, dwell the ESTHONIANS. This name, of like import with orientals, is of german origin ; many other nations of the Baltic bore it ; by Tacitus and Caffiodorus it is employed to denote the bor- derers on the Amber-flrands : at length, however, it was confined to defignate the fmall tract of the forementioned coaft. The Efthonians have no name for themfelves collectively, but fupply that defect either by Maa Rahvaft, people of the country; inhabitant (in the fmgular number, Maa Mees) ; or if they would fpeak more parti- cularly, Tarto Rahvaft, Perno Rahvaft, people of Dorpat, of Pernau, &c. * In the ruffian annals, where they play a confiderable part, as they, in common with the novgorodian Slavi, founded the ruffian ftate, they are called Tfchudes. From them to this day the Peipus lake is called in rufs Tfchudfkoie ozero, the Tfchudifh lake. That alfo this people, in the remotefl times, belonged to the ruffian monarchy, is beyond all doubt. During the inteftine commotions with * The Finns are called in the eflhoaian, Some Rahvaft, or Somlane. which FINNS. 485 which the grand-dukes had to contend among them, the Tfchudes indeed gradually fucceeded in withdrawing themfelves from this fovereignty ; but, we alfo learn from hiftory, that the ruffian princes at feveral times found means to afiert their right with vigour, and to compel the Eflhonians by force to acknowledge it. Thus, for example, Yaroflaf found himfelf under the neceffity to wage war upon the Tfchudes, and in the year 1030 to build Dorpat, (or Yurief, as the Ruffians dill call that town,) that he might have a flrong place in the heart of their country, for the reception of the imports, and perhaps for keeping a garrifon in it. So Mftiilaf marched againft the Tfchudes and Semgallians, on his re- viving his demand of the tribute which they had been wont to pay : likewife in the annals of the neighbouring nations we find frequent evidence that no one ever doubted of the fupremacy of the ruffian princes over thefe countries. The moft remarkable of the cataflrophes that befel the Efthonians have already been noticed in the hiftory of the Lettes. Since the year 1386, when Eflhonia was fold to the Teutonic-order, it has formed a part of the livonian (late, with which, after a feparation of a hundred years, when it was under the dominion of Sweden, it again fell to the latter, and afterwards was 1 1 3 united 486 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. united to the ruffian territory. The antient duchy of Efthonia forms, in the prefent confti- tution of the ruffian empire, the government of Reval; not only this province, however, but alfo the greater part of Livonia, or five circles of the Riga-government, are inhabited by Eftho- nians. Their numbers in the former govern- "inent can only be probably computed at 1 80,000 ; in the latter, by the lafl enumeration, were up- wards of 257,000 heads. We fhall certainly therefore not be miftaken in flating their total amount at 430,000. The Efthes or Eflhonians, in the lettifh lan- guage Iggaunis, have ever been the mofl exten- five and the moft populous nation of Liefland ; who, befides Efthonia properly fo called, in- habited the diflri&s of Dorpat and Pernau, and flill maintain their fettlernent in them to this day. They even made frequent attempts to get firm footing in Lettland j but they were as often repulfed by the Teutonic order of knights, under their mafter Volquin, who repeatedly drove them back to their antient feats. Their language, manners, bodily figure, houfes, methods of huf- bandry, are fo many incontrovertible proofs of their relationmip to the Finns ; whom M. Schloetzer juftly pronounces to be one of the inoft far-fpread nations of the globe, inhabiting, from FINNS. 487 from the mores of the Baltic, to regions deeply fituated in Afia. It is therefore no wonder that fome Livonians have found nations in the heart of Ruffia, whofe fpeech, by the help of fome acquaintance with the efthonian, they could partly underftand ; fmce the Finns, the Lap- landers, the Efthonians, Livonians, Permians, Syranes, Ingrians, Votiaks, Tfchuvaflies, Tfche- remifies, Mordvines, and others, are defcribed as nations of one common pedigree. The Eftho- nians are the Tfchudi ; from which appellation perhaps is derived the word Tchuchna, ftill ufed by the Ruffians to exprefs a liefland boor. Their converfion, or more properly their com- pulfion, coft the Germans much labour. Ac- cuftomed to war, to piracy, and to liberty, they long difdained and refitted their infolent autho- rity. Some fparks of that martial fpirit, now almoft extinct, mew themfelves, however, at times, in their fits of ebriety and revenge ; and a relic perhaps of their old difpofuion to pira- cies and hoftile attacks on the neighbouring- provinces may be feen in their prefent propenfity to theft. Great wifdom is not to be looked for among folks entirely occupied in the affairs of agricul- ture, pafturage, and fifhing. Neither the eftho, nor the lettifh languages have as yet been 1 1 4 unfolded 488 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. unfolded and enriched by art or fcience ; they are greatly deficient, efpecially the efthonian, in particular expreffions ; fo that it muft often be a difficult tafk to a village-preacher, to publifh an edict in a faithful tranflation, or to deliver a dog- matical difcourfe to his parimioners, unlefs he be peculiarly endowed with the grace of condefcen- fion. Many a boor would accept of freedom with heartfelt gratitude ; but neither gratitude nor freedom can the Efthonian exprefs in his language ; no more than he can exiftence, du- ration, fpace, and other abftra&ed ideas. Among them are found perfons of great fimplicity, efpecially fuch as live apart in the forefts : the greater part are artful, (the Efthonian more than the Lette,) eafily comprehend a proportion not lying too far beyond their fphere, and frequently difcover unexpected capacities only waiting for an occafion to call them forth. Thofe on the fea-ccaft have always been able feamen, who, without previous inftruclion, venture far out to fea, in .veflels of wretched conftru&ion. In a fhort fpace of time, often within the compafs of three or four weeks, they learn to read, and are dexterous in ftealing an art from the german mechanics; accordingly we find among them goldfmiths, mip-builders, tanners, expert cooks, huntfmen, &c. Under the fwedilh government, when FINNS. 489 \yhen the country was roufed to fupport the feudal banner, they were ufeful foldiers. At the beginning of the prefent century, according to the current report, a boor of the diftricl: of Dorpat raifed of himfelf a regiment, and fig- nalized himfelf fo much at the head of it, that he received a patent of nobility, with a haak of land, as the reward of his generofity and valour. Several have obtained baronies and military rank for their fer vices in war ; or, having fuccefsfully applied themfelves to the fciences, have been put into various offices : perfons of great con- fideration are now living, whofe fathers or grand- fathers were alienable boors. Very few lords will allow their boors to learn to write ; fearing perhaps they may abufe that talent : they might be tempted to forge a paflport or letters of eman- cipation. Some therefore teach themfelves to write, without any help from others ; and evea under the total want of that art, they can keep, in a moft furprifmg manner, long accounts of a hundred various matters, on flicks or tallies. About things of which they do not diredly fee the utility, they feldom give themfelves any con- cern ; and what they do not comprehend they admire but coldly. Children that are early be- come orphans fcarcely know, at the age of 20, the names of their parents. It is too much the cuflom for fchool-boys to offer their paftor fome flax, 490 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. flax, butter, or honey, to let them foon out of fchool, and not force them to learn to read ; to which end they are likevvife very apt to feign all forts of infirmities, fuch as hardnefs of hearing, dimnefs of fight, weak memories, &c. but efpe- cially of pretending to have a great fall or a blow on the head. Thefe and the like pretexts, how- ever, become lefs frequent from day to day by the prefent fcholaflic inftitutions, and will en- tirely be removed when there is a fchool in every village, or every farm mail inftrucT: its own chil- dren. To fend little children four or five miles off to fchool with their provifions in their pouch, is too much for the poor vaffal, who has fcarcely the means for finding them in neceffary clothes ; grown up lads have no time to fpare for fchool, and would get the worfe for fitting (till, to which they are not accuftomed. A knowledge of the moral duties of religion, fuited to their capacities, is foon obtained by old and young ; yet however it be, fcarcely two in a thoufand can tell whether they be chriftians or not ; unlefs it arifes from this, that they are taught to conceive of religion as fomething different from the leading a good life. The proverb in ufe among them, " He " knows not what faith he is of," does not merely imply a completely ftupid fellow; for they would all reply that they are of the country- faith, or of the parifh-faith. Thofe who live among FINNS. 491 among the Ruffians, on the borders, frequently adopt their domeftic and ecclefiaftical ufages from them. In Efthonia are a great many large villages, feme containing from 40 to 70 little clans ; and with the ftragglers may amount to a hundred diftinft houfeholds : mod of the Lettes live fepa- rate. Even the Efthonians at times mew a hankering after this primitive way of life, by which they are not expofed to the inconvenience of keeping every one his own cow-herd, and at Jeaft an old woman to look after the houfekeep- ing ; on the contrary they are lefs confined, have fields, meadows, and paftures near them, and fufier no damage from their neighbour's cattle. They have a particular affection to the woody diftricts, both for the fake of having a fupply of firewood at hand, and an opportunity of clear- ing new fields whenever they pleafe. One of thefe ftragglers, or bum-boors as they are called, vill not eafily be perfuaded to come and live in .a village at a diftance from a foreft, though of- fered a far more fertile foil to cultivate, becaufe there they can unobferved be continually laying out new ground in corn and hay fields, without paying any thing for them. Inferior landlords, who exact but little work from fuch people, run the rifk of foon perceiving a want of ftewards ; and these have been inftances of their letting the 4p2 NATION'S OF THE EMPIRE. the eftate go to ruin, or even of fetting their houfes on fire, in order to have a pretence for turning flraggler and enjoying the conveniences attending that way of life. For in that cafe they only work two days in the week at mofl for their lord ; the reft of their time is fpent in idlenefs, or in working for their own profit : but in ge- neral they will only work when pinched by hunger, and the fteward mud give them, for fmall fervice, a piece of copfe, beiide finding him in meat and corn. To impofe much work on the ftraggler feems, on the other hand, very cruel, as he has no land from the manor, and muft maintain himfelf and his children by his own labour. They and their children are fome- times fold, or bartered againft other things, horfes, dogs, tobacco-pipe heads, in which the gentry here are very curious, as far as a hundred rubles being often given for one. A man here will not fetch fo much money as a negro in the Weft-Indies ; one buys a fellow here for 30 to 50 rubles ; if he underftand any bufmefs, fhoe- maker, taylor, cook, weaver, &c. he may fell for i oo rubles ; you will pay about the fame rate for a whole clan, one with another, the pa- rents with the children ; for a ftout girl feldom more than 10, and for a child it may be 4 rubles. Whether the proper names that appear in their, old chronicles be the appellatives of entire cafts or FINNS* 493 or races, or of individuals, I cannot take upon me to determine. The fondnefs that many boors have for naming themfelves after the piece of ground pofieffed by their forefathers for a long time, or at leafl to retain the father's name, feems to favour the fuppofition, that a kind of family, name was not formerly quite unknown to them : perhaps, if it were of any confequence, we might find them again in the names of different villages and farms, from which, as well as from ani- mals, &c. they feem to be borrowed. Proper family-names, as we now bear them, nobody will expect to find in Livonia earlier than the twelfth century. At prefent the baptifmal name always ftands lad ; that of the farm, the father, or the landlord firft : for example ; an Eftho- nian of the name Mik, living at a place called Mutta, calls himfelf Mutta Mik j his fon bears the name Mutta Mikko Pong *, and his fon, Mutta Mikko Pong Rein ; and fo his daugh- ter, fervant, ftep-fon, &c. The vaflals change their name with every new landlord, or call themfelves after their fathers. Even a farm- holder mud change his name whenever another plot of ground is given him to cultivate, unlefs he receive exprefs permiflion from his lord to re- tain the old, or his father's name. Vaflals that are made free commonly take a fanjily-name, bor- * Son. rowed 494 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. rowed from their former place, or their father's : for inftance ; Hans, the fon of Hunti Laur, is made free. He now affumes the name Hans Hunt ; or, becaufe the latter word fignifies Wolf, Hans Wolff, or Hans Laurfon. Their ufual chriftian names, among others, are : Elthni/h. Lettifh. Adam Adam, Ado, Oado Adam Agnes Neto Anthony Tcennis, Tcenno, Teens Antins Anne An, Anno An Barbara Warbo, Papo Babbe, Babba, Barbel Bartholomew Pojrtel, Pert, Pero Bthrtuls, Behrtmeis Brigit Pirrit Birte, Brihte Daniel Tanni Dorothy Tio Dahrte Elizabeth Ello, Els, Lifo life, Lihs Eve Eva Yeva George Yum Yirri, Yurris Gertrude Kert, Truto Geddo, Gehrte Hed\vig Edo Edde Hellen Leno Lena Henry Hin, Hinno, Hinrik Indriks Jacob Yakob, Yaak, Yoak Yehkobs, Yahks John Yaan, Yoan, Yuhan, Heins Anfis, Antzis Katharine Kai, Kaddri, Trino Katrihn, Trihne, Katfha Charles Kaarl, Karel Karl Magdalene Madli, Madle, Mai Magdalena, Lena Mary Mai, Marri, Marret Marri Margaret Kreet, Kroecet Kret, Mahrgeet Peter Peter, Peet, Peeto Peet, Peter Sibyl Pil Bille. The FINNS. 495 The mafculine appellatives, Koort,Pell, Kasaert, Tin ; and the feminine Kell, and one very com- mon in fome places, Eile, in Efthonia ; and the Lettifh, Lafhe, Ebb, which fome interpret by Lucia and Ebertina, I do not prefume to tran- flate. Rich boors would be fought for here in vain. Such as (in fecret) pofiefs a few hundred rubles in hard cam, with moveables to the value of a hundred or two more, are here and there to be found ; they even fometimes are worth more than their matters ; but then they mufl not let it be known. Some have jufl enough to fatisfy the nrft wants of life ; but (till more are poor. Formerly they were all much better provided. Among the Lettes, the landed property is not divided into fmall eftates, but remains in the hands of a few overgrown nobles, who, living in great opulence, neglecl to look after the ma- nagement of their country poffemons, fo that the produce of them does not amount to one third of what, with moderate attention and care, they might, to the great detriment of the proprietor himfelf, to the (late at large, and to the poor peafants, who, though for the mofl part, more induftrious than the Eflhonians, are generally in the extremeft poverty. The latter neither \vant land nor an opportunity of making money, 8 if NATIONS OF TJft EMPIRE. if they have but time and inclination. The day- labourer, all the winter through, can earn his 10 kopeeks, and even more, by cutting wood and other employments, and in harveft time may get' weekly a couple of bufhels of corn. The forefts, the breeding of cattle, the towns, the manor-houfes, the chace, and agriculture, furnifh them with opportunities enough for earn- ing fomething. Only by fpinning for pay, the females find but little advantage; and yet in winter there is fcarcely any thing elfe for them to do : in the word parts of the country they grow as much flax as will keep them in work during the whole of the long winter. The Efthonian has often been reproached with lazi- nefs : charity might lead us to fuppofe that bond- age and oppreffion may have an influence on him, as well as on the Lettes ; but he fhews it even when working for himfelf: perhaps his feudal fervice habituates him to it. And yet, both in town and country, there are great num- bers who mew themfelves induftrious, and purfue their own benefit with activity and diligence. The failure of a crop, difeafes among the cattle and horfes, foon reduce a boor to poverty ; whom all the afliftance he can get from the ma- norial mefluage will not reftore to his former condition. A man may have two horfes and a few FINNS. 497 few cows, and yet be very poor. How wretched are even they who are called landlords, or hofts, of the farm, who have nothing but a horfe lent them from the manor ! Creditable boors, pof- fefs, according to the quantity of their ground, from 5 to i o hordes, and a herd of between 30 and 40 head of horned cattle. Both poor and rich eat chaff-bread, that is, without feparating the chaff from the rye ; after threfhing, they grind and bake them both together. In thofe parts of the country where the ungrateful foil rewards the labourer with but a forry crop, or the arable land is allotted the people in too great a difpro- portion, both the Lettonians and the Efthonians feed on the vileft bread imaginable, fit for no- thing but to burn,' for it takes fire immediately on application to it : it is only on holidays that they bake a little bread of wheat or cleanfed rye, but never bolted. When their fpirits and their pride are elated by ftrong liquors, or fometimes when they have a good-natured matter, they are apt to betray their property, which at all other times they do what they can to conceal, left their work mould be increafed, or, after their death, an unwelcome hseres univerfalis ab intef- tato mould come in for at lead an equal mare with their children, which, it is to be hoped, VOL. i. K K does 498 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. does not frequently happen in our enlightened days. None of the people here are comparable to the german peafants in mufcular force, particu- larly as to lifting or carrying burdens, which, perhaps, may be owing to their habits of lazi- nefs, and their miferabk diet. But they will hold out in great labours furprifmgly ; they bear viciflitudes of cold, heat, and continued wet, that would kill an Engliftiman or a German, and do a great deal of work, with little fleep. Their climate, their hard manner of life, toge- ther with early habitude, may contribute much to this, but efpecially their hot-baths, in which praclice they run out of the extremes of heat, ftark naked, into the open air, in fummer plung- ing into a river, and in winter rolling themfelves in the fnow. Rheums, defluxions, colds, tooth- achs, ear-achs, &c. are but rarely heard of among them. With good- living their bodies foon get a fort of plumpnefs j but a truly fat man would be a ftrange fight indeed. Their ftature is rather under than over the common fize, and many of the women ara.unufually mort. A tall fellow is fomethnes to be met with. Some authors deny them to poflefs either virtue or confcience, chiefly becaufe they have no- .- FINNS. 499 fio word in their language to denote them. But this is a manifeft exaggeration. It is true the Efthonian, as well as the Lette, terms con- fcience, by a periphrafis, the teftimony of the heart ; and virtue he exprefles by good actions : but, for love, pity, patience, placability, gentle- nefs, forbearance, and the like, they have their own proper terms. As in all other countries, there are very honeft worthy people, among fome that are otherwife : but even the predomi- nant paflions feem here to require a certain fort of indulgence, when we take fervitude, ill-ufage, oppreflion, and a want of education into the ac- count. The 'following ftatement, however, is, alas ! but too true. Both Eflhonians and Lettonians, though not without numerous exceptions, are apt to in- dulge in inflammatory liquors. Without beer and brandy no pleafure. Intemperance is a pre- vailing vice, whatever indigence and mifery it may coft them. Old and young, hufband and wife, are feen carouling in their families, and drunk in the krougs ; only girls and fome young women are exempt from this charge : the aged drink hard, and continually fmoke tobacco. Neither remonftrances nor woful experience can moderate this propenfity ; they only fleep away the fumes of liquor in ordeir to intoxicate KK 2 then- NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. themfelves afrefh ; even fucklings mtfft tafte of the glafs as often as the mother drinks. A considerable part of their pleafure confifts in fmging and mufic. The former feems pecu- liar to the females ; at weddings they have even prpfeffed fingers brought for the purpbfe ; yet the men join in the tune as foon as the bottle has excited them to merriment. At their work in thfe field, at their play, the girls are always fmging. Some have good voices and great na- tural talents ; but the Efthonhns more than the Lettonians. The former fmg only in one key, but commonly in two parts ; fo that every line lung by one band is repeated by the other. They have a great variety of ballads and tunes. In feveral of their nuptial fongs they annex to every line the t\vo words, Kaffike, Kanike ; which perhaps at prefent are void of meaning, though formerly they may have been expreflions of tendernefs. The Lettonians lengthen out the laft fyllable to a great extent, and ling com- monly in duets, one of them grunting out a fort of bafs. The mod ufual and probably a very antient mufical initrument with both na- tions is the bag-pipes, which they themfelves make, and found in proper time, in two keys, with great dexterity. M. Arndt has endeavoured to explain the efthonian name of this inflrument, torropil. FINNS. 501 torropil, though perhaps with not very great fuccefs. Every kroug, where guefts are invited by the found of this charming inftrument, is fure to be much frequented, efpecially on holi- days. The miferable horizontal harp, and the fiddle, which the Lettes are extremely fond of at all their feftivals, were firfl introduced among them by the Germans. In their dances the couples confift of old and young, frequently man with man, and woman with woman ; one couple following quite clofe at the heels of the other, fo as to allow of but few variations. The Efthonians keep always a -^ or a 4 time, make fhort Hiding fteps, and at the third ftamp rather harder on the ground. The lettonian dance is fomewhat different, and more like an artlefs Polonoife ; they have alfo a fpecies of country-dances. As the Ruffians, fo the Efthonians and Let- tonians, efpecially the younger fort, place the fwing among their favourite fummer-paftimes. At almoft every village, and at every kroug, {lands this machine, on which one or two couple divert themfelves at a time ; which diversion is in high vogue at Ealler. The exercife of fvvhnming, fo much recom- mended by Roufleau, is here the general amufe- nient in hot weather ; all ages and fexes take to K K 3 the 502 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. the water like fo many amphibious animals : but it cofts many of them their lives, chiefly by go- ing in when drunk. All the boors, without exception, are paflion- ately fond of fcalding-hot baths, where they once at lead in every week cleanfe their bodies ; a practice in many refpefts of great fervice to them, from their hard and dirty manner of living. In the midd of the mod profufe perfpi- ration, with the fweat dreaming down their limbs, they go out and fit to cool themfelves in the moft intenfe cold, rubbing their bodies with fnow, without feeling any bad confequencea from it. While in the aft of bathing, they eja- culate all forts of pious wifhes, fuch as, God cleanfe me from all my fins, as I am now clean- fing my fmful body, &c. ; then thank them- felves for the good warning, for the heating of the bath, and for the fetching of the water. Infidelity towards their matters, diftruft, a difpofition to cheat and to deal, frequent elope- ments, and the like, are their ordinary vices, and certainly take their rife from the flavery in which they are held. They rarely rob one an- other ; if any one is known to do fo, he is held in abhorrence by his brethren ; but fo much the more ingenious are they in deviling means to impofe upon their maders j and in general all Germans. FINNS. 503 Germans. The bolts, hafps, latches, rings, hinges, and matters of this nature, are all flole from the yards and outhoufes of the manor- houfc ; let them be renewed as often as they may, ten overfeers would not be able to pre- vent it. The cafks of brandy which they convey to town, they have the art of tapping cunningly under the hoops, without touching the feal with which they are thought to be fecured, and of introducing water to make good the deficiency. But, as they always carry a fealed fpecimen of the ftrength of the brandy, they would prefently be betrayed, if they did not know how to eva- porate a part of the vinous fpirit by the dex- terous application of heat and cold. They make the corn-facks pay toll in like manner, and then throw water upon them, or contrive to make a hole in the bottoms or fides fo as to have all the appearance of being fretted in the carriage. They feldoin fell their hops, but the buyer finds to his coft that they have been adulterated by a mixture of bad wild hops, fand, &c. They have frequently rifen in rebellion againft their mafters. In the year 1345 they rofe in Harrien, and in 1560 in the Viek; the fame thing has happened in later times. Some years ago great numbers of them aflembled, with the moft blood-thirfty intentions, under a K K 4 leader, 504 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. leader, who taught them from the fcriptures that all flavery was abolifhed by the law of the gof- pel ; and, feduced by falfe rumours, artfully fpread among them, a number of Lettonians were very lately incited to commit great out- rages. Some have been even known to wifh for hoftile invafions of their country, in order that they might mingle with the enemy and fatisfy their vengeance. At times a lord or a fteward is cruelly murdered. Examples are not wanting of their having carried complaints againfl their matters, even to the fupreme tribu- nals ; and of their having brought them to legal punimment. Yet the generality of them are de- voted with the fincereft efteem and affection to their kind and humane maflers, and are ene- mies to all refiflance. In their revenge, even among themfelves, they know, no bounds ; com- mitting a murder wjth the greateft coolnefs and indifference, which they otherwife hold to be the moft heinous of crimes. Lying, curfmg, and fwearing are very current among them, endeavouring to make the moft manifeft falfehood pafs for truth, by fuch dread- ful imprecations, as, Let me perifh ! May I be ftruck blind ! May God mower his judgments on my fields and cattle ! which are as common a phrafeology with them as with the Greeks ; and FINNS. 505 and in fnnilar terms they exprefs their averfion towards others. At the fame time they appear to have a great reverence for judicial oaths j re- lating numerous inftances of the vifible judg- ments that follow perjury. How much ought their fuperiors to encourage and cherifli thefe fentiments for enforcing a ftrict adherence to truth ! Whenever a lord attempts to perfuade or to bribe his boors to give a falfe oath, no- thing is afterwards facred to them j even his perfon as well as his property are thenceforward in danger. It will be neceffary now to fay fomewhat of their religion. Even in Livonia it has under- gone fome alterations. The antient inhabitants of thefe countries were heathens ; feveral fuper- ftitious cuftoms, not yet entirely eradicated, and fome monuments ftill remaining are relicts of their antient worfhip. Of their fuperftitions but little need be faid ; the fubjecl would neither improve nor entertain us. One inftance may fuffice. Even the better educated boor can- not, without much pains and inward conflicts, fuffer any ipinning to be done in his houfe on Thurfdays for fear left the flieep mould not thrive, or (hould die of the rot: though, on being told that, when they have been obliged to fpin on that day at the lordfhip, no harm has happened 56 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. happened there to the fheep, they are ready enough to acknowledge that it is an idle notion. Some pretend that this foolifli obfervance of Thurfday took its rife from the nonfenfe of one of their brethren, who, in the year 1563, taught them to hallow that day, becaufe God, on ac- count of fome afliftance he had received on a Thurfday, enjoined it to be obferved inflead of Sunday. The truth of the ftory muft be ad- mitted on the teftimony of the hiflorian Kelch : but it gives no fufficient reafon for the particular abhorrence of fpinning, as they do every other kind of work on that day. The cuftom feems rather to have been kept up as a relief of pa- ganifm, and the more fo, as the above-men- tioned uncommiilioned preacher found no very general acceptance with his brethren. Neither is the ftory any proof of the peculiar ftupidity of this people. More enlightened nations have adopted as articles of faith doctrines to the full as incomprehenfible. Kelch and others mention fome of their deities by name; but we mould cautioufly examine their accounts before we give credit to them. The firft converters of the Livonians were but little acquainted with the language of the people. They thought themfelves juftified in defcribing their pagan wormip from its moll odious fide, and even TINNS. 507 even with pious exaggerations ; in order to give a pretext to the force that was ufed in thefe converfions, and to exalt their own merits, they hefitated at nothing. They charged the uncon- verted with all kinds of abominations, and parti* cularly with polytheifm : however, it has never been thoroughly proved. The Yummal of the Efthonians, under which name they ftill, in common with the Finns, the Laplanders, &<> worfhip the true God, might be known by more than one appellation, as we may well believe if we but bring our reflections a little homeward ; or what is related of their other deities, as Thor, &c. was perhaps no more than various kinds of homage they thought due to inferior deities, or to the memory of heroes that had arifen among them. The livonian paganifm is affirmed to be perfectly fimilar with that of the Celts and the antient Germans. Of thefe it is well known that they had no temples, but even deftroyed them wherever they were found, becaufe they efteemed the great ruling fpirit of heaven and earth, whom they held to be one only God though they adored him under various names, too great and too exalted to dwell within walls, and to be inclofed in human ftru&ures. Their religious rites they performed in the open fields, on the top of a mountain, by the fide of a fpring, 508 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. fpring, or under the (hade of a tree : fuch places were facred. They believed in inferior deities, to whofe government and care certain regions were allotted ; they fcrupuloufly avoided to of- fend, efpecially in the facred places, thefe fub- ordinate divinities, whom they imagined to de- light chiefly in fire and water, as two beneficent elements, and therefore they threw into them bread, wax, and other offerings, as tokens of their veneration. In their groves they nourimed a facred fire. To fpeak of the marriage and the birth of gods, they held to be indecent, and con- fequently were unacquainted with female deities, They had a god, Thor, to whofe influence they attributed all aerial phenomena. Statues they had properly none ; neverthelefs fome are found among them which they probably borrowed from foreigners and their religion. Of facts fo notorious from the hiftories both of the Celts and the Germans, no man will expeft particular proofs. Let us then return to the Lieflanders, amongft whom we find all thefe religious obferv- ances, even to the minuteft article; and the fame Celtic and german god Thor adored as a patron in military exploits. It may reafonably be affirmed, that the Lieflanders, as in the whole of their religion, fo chiefly in its firft principle, the unity of God (which they held from mere tradition, FINNS. 509 tradition, without any more immediate revela- tion, though M. Jerui'alem, Dr. Leland, and others, abfolutcly deny it to be held by any heathen nation) had a perfect refemblance with the Celts and Germans : that all their fuppofed plurality of gods were but feveral names for the only Potentate, or were fubordinate deities inverted with amiable or formidable qualities, and held up to the admiration or the terror of mankind, or in order to preferve the remem- brance of eminently beneficent perfons j hence perhaps we may derive the origin of the tales invented by a holy zeal concerning their female deities. Among the Efthonians we can find no intimations built on fure grounds of the latter fort, and in general but few names of deities. With the Lettes they are more numerous, but that they denoted fo many really diflincl: fupe- rior beings, it would be no eafy tafk to prove. What I have been able to colled with any certainty concerning their nature, offices, rites, and reprefentations, I (hall here fubjoin. Mahjafkungs and Zeemniks feem to have been a kind of penates or houfehold gods ; the latter particularly prefided over vafials and cattle, for which reafon they facrificed in both kinds to him in autumn. Lulkis, likewife a kind of fpi- ritus familiaris. Meehra Deeus, or Mefha Deeus, the NATIONS OF THE the god of wild beads, particularly wolves. Pumkeis, the god of forefts. Pilnihts, the god of plenty. Aufkuhts, the god of health and licknefs, chiefly worfhipped by the Lithuanians. Veitzgants- *, the patron of betrothed perfons, particularly the bride. Gahrdehdis, the fifher- man's god. They alfo reckon up a few god- defies: Deevekla, generally called, by way of eminence, the goddefs, contra&edly Dehkla; who, it feems, was the tutelary deity of women in child-birth, by whofe benign influences the new-born babes were lulled afleep and made to thrive. Others afcribe thefe effefts to a Tikkla or Tiklis, while to Dehkla f, they configned the care of the children at the bread. Laima was the goddefs that prefided over pregnant women ; and Mahte was in general the childrens* god- defs, known under feveral epithets ; among others Peena Mahte, for whom they kept the domeftic makes, which they carefully fed 'with milkj and even to this day, hi fome houfes, efpecially among the vulgar, the fuperftition is flill retained of dreading to drive the houfe- fnakes out of doors. Of the places and groves where the antient JJeflanders, as well Eithonians as Lettonians, * From gan veitzaks, it fucceeds well, f From the lettilh word deht, to fuck. were FINN'S. Sit were wont to perform the holy rites of pa- ganifm, many, notwithstanding the drift orders that have been iflued for their demolition, are (till in being, towards which they conftantly tefUfy an awful reverence. None choofe to ap- proach them, nor ever venture to cut a bough from a facred tree, or even to pluck a ftraw- berry that grows beneath its made. If a German, out of wantonnefs or zeal, does an injury to thefe trees by cutting or breaking them, they fhudder with the certain expectation of fome im- pending judgment. Some of thefe facred places are diftinguifhable by one, others by feveral (moftly oak) trees ; on hills, in plains, or near a fpring. Boors that are not deterred by the fear of difcovery, and the penalties annexed to it, wifh to be privately buried in thefe places ; fome of which perhaps originally owed their confequence, not merely to religious rites per- formed there, but on account of fome league or treaty concluded at them ; and afterwards, by an eafy tranfition among unlettered people, were confidered as facrsJ and inviolable. Rouf- ieau has fomewhere judicioufly obferved from, antient hiftory, that it was cuflomary not only to take the gods to witnefs the covenant, but to make choice of certain (tones, hills, and trees as memorials of the tranfaction. Inftances of this 13 cuftom 512 NATIONS OF THE UMPIRE. cuftom are to be met with in the books of Mofes and the chronicles of the Jews. The fentiment that the inferior deity, who delights to dwell in this fpot, will revenge the violation of a monu- ment marked out for calling to the minds of men the engagements they have mutually en- tered into in the prefence of their god, is of wonderful efficacy with rude and uncivilized people. Superftitioufly to vifit and revere all fuch hallowed groves is ftriclly forbidden : but faith fufFers no reftraint ; and inveterate preju- dice triumphs over reafon. Several barons have commanded their boors to go and cut down fuch trees ; but neither threats nor perfuafions would prevail till they infpired the awe-ftruck vaflals with courage, by taking the axe into their own hands. Offerings of wool, wax, yarn, bread, &c. are ftill in ufe among them, by laying th,em on the holy places, or cramming them in the hollows of the aged trees. Springs and rivers likewile have their mare of thefe unbloody facrifices. But, efpecially when any fudden eruption or ulcer appears on their body, they fay, it comes from fuch a place, or properly from the earth ; they therefore go to the place where they have lad fat down, or flept, or drank, and according to their opinion, got the harm : there they fcrape fome FINNS. 513 fome particles of filver from a ruble, or from the neck or bread ornaments of their wives ; and then, as nature commonly foon relieves herfelf, they take him to be a very filly man who mould doubt of the efficacy of the filver-fcrapings. This may be confidered as a propitiatory offering to the deity of the place. At their fecret idolatrous aflemblies, the keeping up of the fire, into which they throw all forts of offerings, is ftill a princi- pal obfervance. If it be true that the Celts paid no regard to ftatues and idols as neceffary appurtenances of their worfhip, yet they were not altogether un- acquainted with them ; whether they borrowed them from other nations, or adopted them in fome places as the inventions of ingenious per- fons. In Liefland too they had idols, though perhaps in no great number. Kelch defcribes one that they worfhipped under the figure of a crowned man ; which muft have been of a pretty large fize, as they ufed to depofit their offerings in a bowl fixed on his lap. In the library be- longing to the Olai church at Reval, among other curiofities, is ftill preferved a lietiand idol of the heathenifh times, arid re about four inches in height. As there were then no eminent artifts in Liefland, the form given to this figure but poorly exprefTes that of a man : perhaps they were made merely in memory of their heroes. VOL. i. L L We 514 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE, We likewife find fome few altars flill remain- ing ; probably a fort of table for offerings : how- ever I fhall not prefume to ftate their peculiar deftination. One is yet {landing in the Ober- pafchen, near the lordfhip of Kaverfhof, under the branches of a facred tree, in the hollow of which little offerings are ftill frequently found. This altar, artlefsly hewn out of a large block of granite, is about two ells in height, fomewhat of the fame in length, but fcarcely one ell broad j fmooth at top, of nearly an oval form, furrounded by a frame rifmg two inches above the foot. The foot, all of one piece with the flat of the table, is pointed downwards that it may flick faft in the earth : that it is a relict of paganifm, is confirmed both by common report and the evidence arifmg from the thing itfelf. After the reformation no field-altars were creeled ; \n the times of popery they would have had a better fhape, and would certainly not have been placed under a fufpe&ed tree; in general the whole form of it contradicts the fuppofition that it was made after the introduction of chriflianity. For domeflic ufes it could not have been defigned, as many boors even at this day have no table at all in their houfes, much lefs one of flone. That their facred trees and groves renew them- felves by the cafual falling of their own feeds, or by fecret plantation, fcarcely needs be mentioned. Proper 515 Proper idol-temples indeed have not been found in Liefland ; yet, in regard to an antient wall ftill (landing I have fome doubts. It ftands near the Vaftemois, but in the precinfts of Fellin- caftle, on a little elevation in a foreft much grubbed up. The wall is quadrangular, two ells thick, four fathoms long, and three fathoms broad. On each fide are feen three fmall win- dows ; but none above the gate oppofite. It is not exaclly known whether they were formerly covered ; neverthelefs the boors unanimoufly re- late, that in antient times, when the Fellin road ran that way, a traveller chanced to lofe himfelf in this foreft, then very thick with trees, and in the anxiety of his mind here vowed to build a chapel, which he did accordingly, and beftowed upon it the name of Rifti Kirrik, that is, the Crofs-church. If we give faith to this ftoryy the builder muft have been a chriftian. At prefent this dilapidated ftrucl:ure is put to a very fingular ufe. Every year, nine days before the feaft of St. George, or, as they call him, St. Yurgen, in the night, great multitudes of boors, of both fexes, and of all ages, from all the ad- jacent parts, aflemble here, fometimes to the amount of feveral thoufands, kindle a fire within the inclofure of the wall, into which they throw offerings of various kinds, fuch as yarn, flax, L L 2 wool, 516' WATIOKS OF THE EMPIRE. wool, bread, money, &c. ; at the fame time de- pofiting all manner of waxen figures in the little apertures that feem to have ferved for windows. Round the fire fits a circle of beggars, who have the care of keeping it up ; and for their trouble partake in the offerings. Of all the fights in the world, this is furely the mod ludicrous. All the barren women of the country round, dancing ftark naked about thefe old walls ; others eating- and drinking with noify feftivity ; many more running in frifky gambols about the wood, and followed by young men, playing all forts of tricks, and talking all manner of ribaldry. Hitherto it has not been pomble to put down this ftrange licentious meeting ; in the mean time all the circumftances of it feem to (hew that h is derived from the days of paganifm. The offerings, the fire, the dancing, the licentiouf- nefs, are manifeft proofs of it : but then have we the remains of a heathen temple in Liefland ? Without pretending to decide this queftion, 1 find it not probable, that a people, known to be remarkably tenacious of their old inflitutions, fhould in modern times make choice of a place to meet in for their interdicted worfhip, which their fathers had not employed to a like purpofe- What mould move them to it ; fince they would be better concealed, and be lefs liable to detec- tion. FINNS. 517 fion, in the far deeper forefls at no great diftance. The prefervation of the wall, through fo many ages to the prefent times, may be owing to repa- rations carried on by ftealth ; the flory about the occafion of building it, and the reafon for its name may be all a fiction, in order to fave the place from the deftruction with which it was threatened by the chriftians. The Celts and Germans had no temples ; neither had the antient Pruffians any : but fimply from a quadrangular wall, we can draw no inference of a temple. We are told by a learned antiquarian *, that the Pruflians had the facred forefts, where they \vorfhipped their deities with fire and facrifkes, furrounded with curtains or fcreens. The Lief- landers may likewife have had fcreens or fences for a fimilar purpofe ; Kelch fpeaks of hedges, which they fet up in the foreft around their idol. This was necellary at leaft for keeping off the cattle that roamed at large. For the fake of folidity and permanency they may eafily be fup- pofed to have changed the hedge for a wall, as is often done by the rude inhabitants of other countries as well as of Liefland ; but long before the arrival of the Germans, here was a fort of towns and permanent houfes, and in all proba- * Dr. Arnold, in his compendium of the ecclefiaftical Liftory of Pruffia, book i. L L 3 bility 518 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. bility even ruffian churches ; and if this were not the cafe, yet this we know, that the Danes built monafteries in the eleventh century on the coafts of Efthland. Accordingly, we find inclofures, even walls, ferving them inflead of temples, without bearing that name, becaufe it is likely they were uncovered at top. This is delivered merely as an hypothefis, which others, more deeply verfed in antiquities may think worth examining. To conclude, if the wall was actually built for a chriftian chapel, yet the Eflhes found it not unfuitable for the performance of their heathenifh devotions. Mr. Becker, in his little tracl: under the title of Livonia in facris fuis con- fiderata, pofitively fays : interea in lucis five fylvis iflis neque templa, neque arse, nee co- lumnas, nee idola fuerunt inventa; which is certainly advancing much more than he has authority for. Not from the firft pages of antient hiftory, which are for ever veiled in obfcurity, nor yet from unwarrantable furmifes ; but, judging by antient ufages ftill remaining, we perceive a great refemblance between the old religious rites of the Celts and the Lieflanders, why mould it not be thought highly probable that the Liefs and Eflhes by their Yummal, and the Lettes by their Deeus, defigned the fole true God j in fubordi- nation FINNS. 519 nation to whom they only admitted inferior deities as beneficent or malicious fpirits. Perhaps it might be for this reafon that the doctrine of the devil met with fuch good reception, and is ftill preferred with fo much reverence among them, infomuch that they generally tremble at the mere recital of his mifchievous doings ; imputing to him all the evil that happens in the world. Doubtlefs it is becaufe they think him like the dreadful deities they formerly imagined. Among the Lettes and Efthes alfo many re- mains of heathenifm are flill obfervable ; fo that it mould feem as if the reformation together with all the learned opinions fo fcrupuloufly main- tained by the bifhops, have not as yet been able to eradicate them. Their ignorance, then, which we muft therefore believe partly invincible, with its attendant an unufual fenfuality, cherifh their propenfity to purchafe by facrifices and offerings a happy progrefs in their undertakings. In general, the benign influence of religion on their conduct is not perceptible by the moft attentive obferver. In the twelfth century the Liefs and afterwards the Lettes, were brought to the profeffion of chriftianity by the Germans ; but a part of the by the Danes. Perhaps they already L L 4 knew 520 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE, knew it by name, through the Ruffians who dwelt in the country. The Germans gradually introduced baptifm over the whole of the iflands as well as the firm land. The new religion got an outward fplendor from the teutonic order, the inftitution of bifhops, the foundation of monasteries, and the appointment of priefts ; all was purely catholic. Neverthelefs the Ruffians have at all times had churches in Liefland ; therefore in all the treaties entered into with the fovereigns of Ruffia, it is always an articje that the ruffian churches mail be kept clean and in good repair, and in all refpefts according to antient ufage. In the year 1522, the reformation forced its way into Liefland, by a preacher, who, on being driven out of Pomerania, had fled to Riga, named Andreas Kncepken, or Knopf. It quickly fpread itfelf far and wide, and was even favoured by the order. All followed Luther's doctrine ; and the popifli ritual, afterwards patronifed on the part of Poland, had, on the whole, no in- fluence to its detriment. During the fovereignty of Sweden over thefe regions, a law was enacted, that whoever deviated from the doctrine con- tained in the fymfyolical books, mould be inca- pable of inheriting any lands or dues for ever. Every FINNS. Every other religious practice was prohibited, and even to be prefent at it, under a penalty of ico dollars filver money. By the loth article of the treaty of Nyftadr, the greek religion is fecured in the free exercife of its rites. In Riga there is a church for the ufe of the Calvinifts ; the catholics have not as yet built themfelves a proper church, but per* form their worlhip in a houfe fitted up for that purpofe. In Liefiand it may be juftly faid, that every man may follow his own perfuafion in matters of religion without the leail moleftation. In Liefland count Zinzendorf found alfo many friends to his church-inftittition. Its rapid pro- grefs, indeed, attracted the notice of govern- ment. Two of their followers, Eberhard Gut- flef, fuperintendant of (Efel, and another, a preacher of that place, on account of certain charges laid againft them, were brought to St. Peterfburg in 1 747, with two other brethren, where the firft died in prifon of ficknefs in 1 749, and the other was fet-at liberty in 1762. Since that event nothing has ever been attempted againft the members of that fraternity. Having already extended this feclion beyond what the limits I propofed to myfelf will properly allow, I am obliged to omit feveral particulars, and to referve others for the part where I fhall treat of this country as a province. I fhall there- fore 522 NATIONS OF THE EMPIRE. fore conclude for the prefent with fomewhat con- kerning their language. Mr. Hupel, to whofe laborious refearches the world is under great obligations, gives the fol- lowing extract of a letter from M. Pritzbuer, provoft of Marienburg : " A provoft of Mecklen- burg, of the name of Frank, has written an ac- count of Mecklenburg. In the fifth century of his hiftory I find the lettifh paternofler in Meck- lenburg. Making allowance for the later im- provements of the language, the imperfect knowledge of it in the firft promulgators of chriftianity, the miftakes from frequent tran- fcribing or printing, the ftill ufual drawling out or expanding of the words, and the changing of ibme vowels, as a into o, alfo o into oa, and ee into i, as is cuftomary in thefe parts, I conceive the matter to be very clear. I will therefore fubjoin it as it comes to me, together with the correfponding words as they are now in ufe : 1. The old vendifh : Tabes mus, kas tu es 2. The prefent words: Tehvs muhfu, kas tu efli Father our, who thou art 1 . eefhan debbes ; fis fvetitz tows varetz ; 2. eekfhan debbefim ; efius fvetitihtz taws vahrds ; in heaven ; be hallowed thy name } 1 . enach mums tows valftibs ; tows proatz bus ka 2. eenhk mums taws valftiba ; taws prahtz buhs ka come to us thy kingdom ; thy will be as i. eefhaa FINNS. 533 1. eeftian debbes ta wurfam femmcs ; mafic demifhe 2. eekflian dcbbefim ta wirfu femmes ; muhfu deenifhku in heaven fo on earth ; our daily 1. mayfe dus ' mums fhoden ; pammate mums mufie 2. maifi dohdi mums fhodeen ; pametti mums muhfu bread give us to-day ; remit us our 1. grakhe, ka mes pammat mufie paradacken ; 2. grehkus, ka mehs pamettam muhfu paradneekeem j fins, as we remit our debtors ; 1. ne wedde mums louna badeke ; pet pafiartza 2. ne weddi muhs launa kahrdinafhana ; bet pafiargi not lead us in evil temptation ; but deliver 1. mums nu wufle loune. 2. muhs no wifla launa. us from all evil. The Livifh language is indeed ftill in being ; but, as it is confined folely to the boors in Salis, a tract not more than feven englifli miles in length on the coaft of the Baltic, and they fo mixed with the Lettes, that they might rather be called Lettes than Liefs, is in danger of becoming, in no long fpace of time altogether extinct, it may not be totally ufelefs to preferve fuch words and phrafes as Mr. von Eflen, fuperior paftor at Riga was able to gather up amongft them. God, Tummal A ftar, tehd Heaven, tauge A cloud, plllud The fur\ t pekva Rain, v'thme The moon, kuh Rainbow, vlckerkahr The 534 NATIONS OF THfe EMPIRE. The earth, mah Sheep, lammafe Sand, yuge Lamb, lammohni Man, irnie Boar, orkas The foul, yenge Swine,Jkicta The body, lee Pig, /orr^ The head, peh Goofe, kohs The hand, kehfe Duck, puhl The foot, yalge Cock, Helta Flem, o/a Hen, kanna Bones, lub Fifh, aaW The town, nine Stone, kihv The village, klulla Bread, /<*,? The houfe, obne Salt,/^ The church, pskodda Butter, vuh The preacher, /^ Milk,/^wdt Hufband, OT^J Rye, rwf/^ Wife, n#n* Barley, odred Child, %>, Oats, ^^r^ Father, iffa Wheat, nl/ui Mother, yemmad Peas, ychrnde Son, />0/> FINNS* 563 Of the Finhnders, Efthonians, or JEftiers, together with all the flavonian tribes, in thofe time., known only by the appellation of Sauro- mates, or northern Medes, of which nation they either were or pretended to be the clcfa-adaiits, as alfo of the Goths, the Romans fcarcely knew any thing but the names. Norway (AV/vgo/i), Sconen (Scandia\ Dwme\ 9 and Varx were, ac- cording to them, iflands lying near the Frozen- ocean, as well as Thule, whither they ufed to fail from Norway, as well as from the northerii- moft point of Scotland. Thefe obfcure notions of the Romans refpefting the geography of the northern nations are confequently alfo very in- coherent, and of no manner of ufe. Pliny exprefles himfelf thus : Sunt qui et alias Cinfulas) prodant, Scandiam, Dumnam, Bergos ; maxi- mamque omnium Nerigon, ex qua in Thulen jiavigetur. A Thule unius diei navigatione, p. 73, & fqq. p. 267, & fqq. It was thought unneccfTary to quote the various authorities for each particular. The moft credible voucher for the tranfaftions of thofe times is undoubtedly Henry the Lette. Arndt's chronicle, part I. p. r 45. Hiserne has made ufe of them ; Kelch and Ruflbf relate the circumttances more fully, but their fourcos aru not always to be relied on. Gadebufch gives the refult of the hiilorical critiques on the productions of this j.-.-t iod. JLivon-ian year-books, part i. fe