SHEPARDBOOKLOMP THE " YORKSHIRE." ROUND THE WOULD; INCLUDING A RESIDENCE IN VICTORIA, AND A JOURNEY BY RAIL ACROSS NORTH AMERICA. BY A BOY, bw S**x**^ EDITED BY SAMUEL SMILES, AUTHOR OF 'CHARACTER," "SELF-HELP," "LIFE OF THE STEPHENSONS," "THE HUGUENOTS, ETC. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE. 1872. / 6>3 ancrof t Library PREFACE. I HAVE had pleasure in editing this little book, not only because it is the work of my youngest son, but also because it contains the results of a good deal of experi- ence of life under novel aspects, as seen by young, fresh, and observant eyes. How the book came to be written is as follows : The boy, whose two years' narrative forms the subject of these pages, was at the age of sixteen seized with inflam- mation of the lungs, from which he was recovering so slowly and unsatisfactorily, that I was advised by Lon- don physicians to take him from the business he was then learning and send him on a long sea voyage. Aus- tralia was recommended, because of the considerable time occupied in making the voyage by sailing ship, and also because of the comparatively genial and uniform temperature while at sea. He was accordingly sent out to Melbourne by one of Money Wigram's ships in the winter of 1868-9, with di- rections either to return by the same ship, or, if the op- portunity presented itself, to remain for a time in the colony. It will be found, from his own narrative, that, having obtained some suitable employment, he decided to adopt the latter course, and for a period of about eighteen months he resided at Majorca, an up-country v i PREFACE. township situated in the gold-mining district of Victo- ria. When his health had become re-established, he was directed to return home about the beginning of the pres- ent year, and he decided to make the return voyage by the Pacific route, via Honolulu and San Francisco, and from thence to proceed by railway across the Rocky Mountains to New York. While at sea the boy kept a full log, intended for the perusal of his relatives at home, and while on land he corresponded with them regularly and fully, never miss- ing a mail. He had not the remotest idea that any thing which he saw and described during his absence would ever appear in a book. But since his return it has oc- curred to the Editor of these pages that the information they contain will probably be found of interest to a wider circle of readers than that to which the letters were originally addressed, and in that belief the sub- stance of them is here reproduced, the Editor's work having consisted mainly in arranging the materials, leav- ing the writer to tell his own story as much as possible in his own way, and in his own words. London, November, 1871. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. DOWN CHANNEL. At Gravesend. Taking in Stores. First Night on Board. "The An- chor's up." Off Brighton. Change of Wind. Gale in the Channel. The Abandoned Ship. The Eddystone. Plymouth Harhor. De- parture from England Page 13 CHAPTER II. FLYING SOUTH. My Fellow-passengers. Life on board Ship. Progress of the Ship. Her Handling. A fine Run down by the Line. Passing Ships. Amusements. Climbing the Mizzen. The Cape de ~Verd Islands. San Antonio 21 CHAPTER III. WITHIN THE TROPICS. Increase of Temperature. Flying Fish. The Homing Bath on board. Paying my "Footing." The Major's wonderful Story "capped." St. Patrick's Day. Grampuses. A Ship in Sight. The "Lord Rag- lan." Rainfall in the Tropics. Tropical Sunsets. The Yankee Whaler 31 CHAPTER IV. THE "BLUE JACKET." April Fools' Day. A Ship in Sight. The "Pyrmont." The Rescued "Blue Jacket" Passengers. Story of the burnt Ship. Suffering of the Lady Passengers in an open Boat. Their Rescue. Distressing Scene on board the "Pyrmont" ... 40 CHAPTER V. IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC. Preparing for Rough Weather. The " George Thompson" Clipper. A Race at Sea. Scene from "Pickwick" acted. Fishing for Albatross. Dissection and Division of the Bird. Whales. Strong Gale. Smash in the Cabin. Shipping a Green Sea. The Sea-birds in our Wake. The Crozet Islands. .. .. 48 viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. NEARING AUSTRALIA THE LANDING. Acting on Board. The Cyclone. Clearing the Ship for Port. Contra- ry Winds. Australia in Sight. Cape Otway. Port Phillip Heads. Pilot taken on Board. Inside the Heads. Williamstown. Sand- ridge. The Landing Page 60 CHAPTER VII. MELBOURNE. First Impressions of Melbourne. Survey of the City. The Streets. Collins Street. The Traffic. Newness and Youngness of Melbourne. Absence of Beggars. Melbourne an English City. The Chinese Quarter. The Public Library. Pentridge Prison. The Yarra River. St. Kilda. Social Experiences in Melbourne. A Marriage Ball. Melbourne Ladies. Visit to a Serious Family 66 CHAPTER VEIL UP-COUNTRY. Obtain a Situation in an Up-country Bank. Journey by Rail. Castle- maine. Farther Journey by Coach. Maryborough. First Sight of the Bush. The Bush Tracks. Evening Prospect over the Country. Arrival at my Destination 81 CHAPTER IX. MAJORCA. Majorca founded in a Rush. Description of a Rush. Diggers camping out. Gold-mining at Majorca. Majorca High Street. The People. The Inns.-- -The Churches. The Bank. The Chinamen. Austra- lia the Paradise of Working-men. " Shouting" for Drinks. Absence of Beggars. No Coppers up-country 89 CHAPTER X. MT NEIGHBORHOOD AND NEIGHBORS. "Dining out." Diggers' Sunday Dinner. The old Workings. The Chinamen's Gardens. Chinamen's Interiors. The Cemetery. The High Plains. The Bush. A Ride through the Bush. The Savoyard Wood-cutter. Visit to a Squatter 99 CHAPTER XI. AUSTRALIAN WINTER THE FLOODS. The Victorian Climate. The Bush in Winter. The Eucalyptus, or Aus- tralian Gum-tree. Ball at Clunes. Fire in the main Street. The Buggy saved. Down-pour of Rain. Going Home by Water. The Floods out. Clunes submerged. Calamity at Ballarat. Damage done by the Flood. The Chinamen's Gardens washed away 109 CONTENTS. i x CHAPTER XII. SPUING, SUMMER, AND HARVEST. Spring Vegetation. The Bush in Spring. Garden Flowers. An Even- ing Walk. Australian Moonlight. The Hot North Wind. The Plague of Flies. Bush Fires. Summer at Christmas. Australian Fruits. Ascent of Mount Greenock. Australian Wine. Harvest. A Squatter's Farm. Harvest-Home Celebration. Aurora Australis. Autumn Rains Page 11 7 CHAPTER XIII. BUSH ANIMALS BIRDS SNAKES. The 'Possum. A Night's Sport in the Bush. Musquitoes. Wattel Birds. The Piping Crow. "Miners." Parroquet Hunting. The Southern Cross. Snakes. Marsupial Animals 131 CHAPTER XIV. GOLD-BUYING AND GOLD-MINING. How the Gold is found. Gold -washing. Quartz -crushing. Buying Gold from Chinamen. Alluvial Companies. Broken-down Men. Ups and Downs in Gold-mining. Visit to a Gold Mine. Gold-seek- ing. Diggers' Tales of lucky Finds 139 CHAPTER XV. ROUGH LIFE AT THE DIGGINGS " STOP THIEF !" Gold-rushing. Diggers' Camp at Havelock. Murder of Lopez. Pur- suit and Capture of the Murderer. The Thieves hunted from the Camp. Death of the Murderer. The Police. Attempted Robbery of the Collingwood Bank. Another supposed Robbery. "Stop Thief !"- Smart Use of the Telegraph 151 CHAPTER XVI. PLACES ABOUT. Visit to Ballarat. The Journey by Coach. Ballarat founded on Gold. Description of the Town. Ballarat "Corner." The speculative Cobbler. Fire Brigades. Return Journey. Crab -holes. The Tal- bot Ball. The Talbot Fete. The Avoca Races. Sunrise in the Bush 160 CHAPTER XVII. CONCLUSION OF MAJORCAN LIFE. Victorian Life English. Arrival of the Home Mail. News of the Franco- German War. The German Settlers in Majorca. The single French- man. Majorcan Public Teas. The Church. The Ranters. The Tee- totalers. The Common School. The Roman Catholics. Common School Fe'te and Entertainment. The Mechanics' Institute. Funeral A 2 x CONTENTS. of the Town Clerk. Departure from Majorca. The Colony of Vic- toria Page 175 CHAPTER XVIII. ROUND TO SYDNEY. Last Christmas in Australia. Start by Steamer for Sydney. ^The "Great Britain." Cheap Trips to Queenscliffe. Rough Weather at Sea. Mr. and Mrs. C. Mathews. Botany Bay. Outer South Head. Port Jackson. Sydney Cove. Description of Sydney. Government House and Domain. Great future Empire of the South 185 CHAPTER XIX. TO AUCKLAND, IN NEW ZEALAND. Leaving Sydney. Anchor within the Heads. Take in Mails and Pas- sengers from the "City of Adelaide." Out to Sea again. Sight New Zealand. Entrance to Auckland Harbor. The " Galatea. " Descrip- tion of Auckland. Founding of Auckland due to a Job. Maori Men and Women. Drive to Onehunga. Splendid View. Auckland Gala. New Zealand Delays. Leave for Honolulu 196 CHAPTER XX. UP THE PACIFIC. Departure for Honolulu. Monotony of a Voyage by Steam. Desagre'- mens. The "Gentlemen" Passengers. The one Second-class "Lady." The Rats on Board. The Smells. Flying Fish. Cross the Line. Treatment of Newspapers on Board. Hawaii in Sight. Arrival at Honolulu 205 CHAPTER XXI. HONOLULU AND THE ISLAND OF OAHU. The Harbor of Honolulu. Importance of its Situation. The City. Churches and Theatres. The Post-office. The Suburbs. The King's Palace. The Nuuanu Valley. Poi. People coming down the Val- ley. The Pali. Prospect from the Cliffs. The Natives (Kanakas). Divers. The Women. Drink Prohibition. The Chinese. The- atricals. Musquitoes 212 CHAPTER XXII. HONOLULU TO SAN FRANCISCO. Departure from Honolulu. Wreck of the "Saginaw." The "Moses Taylor." The Accommodation. The Company on Board. Behavior of the Ship. Death of a Passenger. Feelings on Landing in a new Place. Approach the Golden Gate. Close of the Pacific Log. First Sight of America 228 CONTENTS. x i CHAPTER XXIII. SAN FRANCISCO TO SACRAMENTO. Landing at San Francisco. The Golden City. The Streets. The Busi- ness Quarter. The Chinese Quarter. The Touters. Leave San Fran- cisco. The Ferry-boat to Oakland. The Bay of San Francisco. Landing on the Eastern Shore. American Railway Carriages. The Pullman's Cars. Sleeping Berths. Unsavory Chinamen. The Coun- try. City of Sacramento Page 235 CHAPTER XXIV. ACROSS THE SIERRA NEVADA. Rapid Ascent. The Trestle-bridges. Mountain Prospects. " Placers." Sunset. Cape Horn. Alta. The Sierras by Night. Contrast of Temperatures. The Snow -sheds. The Summit. Reno. Breakfast at Humboldt. The Sage Brush. Battle Mount. Shoshonie Indians. Ten-mile Canon. Elko Station. Great American Desert. Arrival at Ogden 245 CHAPTER XXV. ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. Start by Train for Omaha. My Fellow-passengers. Passage through the Devil's Gate. Weber Canon. Fantastic Rocks. " Thousand-mile Tree." Echo Canon. More Trestle-bridges. Sunset amid the Bluffs. A Wintry Night by Rail. Snow-fences and Snow-sheds. Laramie City. Red Buttes. The Summit at Sherman. Cheyenne City. The Western Prairie in Winter. Prairie Dog City. The Valley of the Platte. Grand Island. Cross the North Fork of the Platte. Arrival in Omaha 254 CHAPTER XXVI. OMAHA TO CHICAGO. Omaha Terminus. Cross the Missouri. Council Bluffs. The Forest. Cross the Mississippi. The cultivated Prairie. The Farmsteads 'arid Villages. Approach to Chicago. The City of Chicago. Enterprise of its Men. The Water Tunnels under Lake Michigan. Tunnels un- der the River Chicago. Union of Lake Michigan with the Mississippi. Description of the Streets and Buildings of Chicago. Pigs and Corn. The Avenue. Sleighing. Theatres and Churches 263 CHAPTER XXVII. CHICAGO TO NEW YORK. Leave Chicago. The Ice Harvest. Michigan City. The Forest. A Railway Smash. Kalamazoo. Detroit. Crossing into Canada. American Manners. Roebling's Suspension Bridge. Niagara Falls in Winter. Goat Island. The American Fall. The Great Horse-shoe x ii CONTENTS. - Fall. The Rapids from the Lovers' Seat. American Cousins. Roch- ester. New York. A Catastrophe. Return Home Page 274 INDEX . 287 ILLUS TK ATIOKS. Pnge " The Yorkshire, " Outward Bound Frontispiece. Map of the Ship's Course, Plymouth to Melbourne 56-7 View of Melbourne, Victoria 66 Map of the Gold-mining District, Victoria. 83 View of Sydney, Port Jackson 185 View of Auckland, New Zealand 196 Map of the Ship's Course up the Pacific. 206 Maps of Auckland, and Sydney, Port Jackson 206 View of Honolulu, Sandwich Islands 212 Map of Oahu, Sandwich Islands 214 Maps of Atlantic and Pacific Railways 238-9, 264-5 View of Niagara Falls American side 274 ROUND THE WORLD. CHAPTER I. DOWN CHANNEL. At Gravesend. Taking in Stores. First Night on Board. "The An- chor's up." Off Brighton. Change of Wind. Gale in the Channel. The Abandoned Ship. The Eddy stone. Plymouth Harbor. De- parture from England. February : At Gravesend. MY last farewells are over, my last adieus are waved to friends on shore, and I am alone on board the ship " Yorkshire," bound for Melbourne. Every thing is in confusion on board. The decks are littered with stores, vegetables, hen-coops, sheep-pens, and coils of rope. There is quite a little crowd of sailors round the capstan in front of the cabin door. Two officers, with lists before them, are calling over the names of men engaged to make up our com- plement of hands, and appointing them to their differ- ent watches. Though the ship is advertised to sail this evening, the stores are by no means complete. The steward is get- ting in lots of cases ; and what a quantity of pickles ! Hens are coming up to fill the hen-coops. More sheep are being brought ; there are many on board already ; and here comes our milk-cow over the ship's side, gen- 14 ROUND THE WORLD. tly hoisted up by a rope. The animal seems amazed; but she is in skillful hands. " Let go 1" calls out the boatswain, as the cow swings in mid-air; away rattles the chain round the wheel of the donkey engine, and the break is put on just in time to land Molly gently on the deck. In a minute she is snug in her stall " f or'ard," just by the cook's galley. Passengers are coming on board. Here is one mount- ing the ship's side, who has had a wet passage from the shore. A seaman lends him a hand, and he reaches the sloppy, slippery deck with difficulty. It is a dismal day. The sleet and rain come driving down. Every thing is raw and cold; every body wet or damp. The passengers in wet mackintoshes, and the seamen in wet tarpaulins ; Gravesend, with its dirty side to the river, and its dreary mudbank exposed to sight ; the alternate drizzle and down-pour; the muddle and confusion of the deck all this presented any thing but an agreeable picture to look at. So I speedily leave the deck, in order to make a better acquaintance with what is to be my home for the next three months. First, there is the saloon long and narrow sur- rounded by the cabins. It is our dining-room, drawing- room, and parlor, all in one. A long table occupies the centre, fitted all round with fixed seats and reversible backs. At one end of the table is the captain's chair, over which hangs a clock and a barometer. Near the after end of the saloon is the mizzen mast, which passes through into the hold below, and rests on the keelson. The cabins, which surround the saloon, are separated from it by open wood- work, for the purposes of ventila- tion. The entrances to them from the saloon are by DOWN CHANNEL. 15 sliding doors. They are separated from each other by folding doors, kept bolted on either side when one cabin only is occupied; but these can be opened when the neighbors on both sides are agreeable. My own little cabin is by no means dreary or uninvit- ing. A window, with six small panes, lets in light and air ; and outside is a strong board, or " dead-light," for use in rough weather, to protect the glass. My bunk, next to the saloon, is covered with a clean white coun- terpane. A little wash-stand occupies the corner; a shelf of favorite books is over my bed -head, and a swing-lamp by its side. Then there is my little mirror, my swing-tray for bottles, and a series of little bags sus- pended from nails, containing all sorts of odds and ends. In short, my little chamber, so fitted up, looks quite cheerful and even jolly. It grows dusk, and there is still the same bustle and turmoil on deck. All are busy ; every body is in a hur- ry. At about nine the noise seems to subside, and the deck seems getting into something like order. As we are not to weigh anchor until five in the morning, some of the passengers land for a stroll on shore. I decide to go to bed. And now begins my first difficulty. I can not find room to extend myself, or even to turn. I am literally " cribbed, cabined, and confined." Then there are the unfamiliar noises outside the cackling of the ducks, the baa-ing of the sheep, the grunting of the pigs possibly discussing the novelty of their position. And, nearly all through the night, just outside my cabin, two or three of the seamen sit talking together in gruff un- dertones. 16 ROUND THE WORLD. I don't think I slept much during my first night on board. I was lying semi-conscious, when a loud voice outside woke me up in an instant " The anchor's up ! she's away !" I jumped up, and, looking out of my little cabin window, peered out into the gray dawn. The shores seemed moving, and we were off. I dressed at once and went on deck. But how raw and chill it felt as I went up the companion-ladder ! A little steam-tug ahead of us was under weigh, with the " Yorkshire" in tow. The deck was now pretty well cleared, but white with frost, while the river banks were covered with snow. Other ships were passing down stream, each with its tug; but we soon distanced them all, especially when the men flung the sails to the wind, now blowing fresh. At length, in about three quarters of an hour, the steam- er took on board her tow-rope, and left us to proceed on our voyage with a fair light breeze in our favor, and all our canvas set. "When off the Nbre, we hailed the " Norfolk" home- ward bound a fast clipper ship belonging to the same firm (Money Wigram's line) and a truly grand sight she was under full sail. ^There were great cheerings and wavings of hats she passing up the river and we out to sea. I need not detain you with a description of my voy- age down Channel. We passed in succession Margate, Ramsgate, and Deal. The wind kept favorable until we sighted Beachy Head about half past five in the evening, and then it nearly died away. We were off Brighton when the moon rose. The long stretch of lights along shore, the clear starlit sky, the bright moon, the ship gen- DOWN CHANNEL. 1 7 tly rocking in the almost calm sea, the sails idly napping against the masts, formed a -picture of quiet during my first night at sea which I shall not soon forget. But all this, I was told, was but " weather-breeding ;" and it was predicted that we were to have a change. The glass was falling, and we were to look out for squalls. Nor were the squalls long in coming. Early next morn- ing I was roused by the noise on deck and the rolling of things about my cabin floor. I had some difficulty in dressing, not having yet found my sea-legs ; but I suc- ceeded in gaining the companion-ladder and reaching the poop. I found the wind had gone quite round in the night, and was now blowing hard in our teeth from the south- west. It was to be a case of tacking down Channel a slow and, for landsmen, a very trying process. In the midst of my first mal -de mer, I was amused by the ap- pearance on board of one of my fellow-passengers. He was a small, a very small individual, but possessed of a large stock of clothes, which he was evidently glad to have an opportunity of exhibiting. He first came up with a souwester on his head, the wrong end foremost, and a pair of canvas shoes on his feet a sort of minia- ture Micawber,^ or first-class Cockney "salt" about to breast the briny. This small person's long nose, large ears, and open mouth added to the ludicrousness of his appearance. As the decks were wet and the morning cold, he found the garb somewhat unsuitable, and dived below, to come up again in strong boots and a straw hat. But, after further consideration, he retired again, and again he appeared in fresh head-gear a huge sealskin cap with lappets coming down over his ears. This im- 18 ROUND THE WORLD. portant and dressy little individual was a source of con- siderable amusement to us; and there was scarcely an article in his wardrobe that had not its turn during the day. All night it blew a gale, the wind still from the same quarter. We kept tacking between the coast of England and the opposite coast of France, making but small way as regards mileage, the wind being right in our teeth. During the night, each time that the ship was brought round on the other tack there was usually a tremendous lurch, and sometimes an avalanche of books descended upon me from the shelf overhead. Yet I slept pretty soundly. Once I was awakened by a tremendous noise outside something like a gun going off. I afterward found it had been occasioned by the mainsail being blown away to sea, right out of the bolt-ropes, the fastenings of which were immediately outside my cabin window. "When I went on deck the wind was still blowing hard, and one had to hold on to ropes or cleats to be able to stand. The whole sea was alive, waves chasing waves and bounding over each other, crested with foam. Now and then the ship would pitch her prow into a wave even to the bulwarks, dash the billow aside, and buoyantly rise again, bowling along, though under moderate sail, be- cause of the force of the gale. The sea has some sad sights, of which one shortly pre- sented itself. About midday the captain sighted a ves- sel at some distance off on our weather bow, flying a flag of distress an ensign upside down. Our ship was put about, and as we neared the vessel we found she had been abandoned, and was settling fast in the water. Two or three of her sails were still set, torn to shreds by the DOWN CHANNEL. 19 storm. The bulwarks were pretty much gone, and here and there the bare stanchions, or posts, were left stand- ing, splitting in two the waves which broke clear over her deck, lying almost even with the sea. She turned out to be the " Bosa," of Guernsey, a fine barque of 700 tons, and she had been caught and disabled by the storm we had ourselves encountered. As there did not seem to be a living thing on board, and we could be of no use, we sailed away ; and she must have gone down shortly after we left her. Not far from the sinking ship we came across a boat bottom upward, most probably be- longing to the abandoned ship. What of the poor sea- men ? Have they been saved by other boats, or been taken off by some passing vessel ? If not, alas for their wives and children at home ! Indeed it was a sad sight. But such things are soon forgotten at sea. We are too much occupied by our own experiences to think much of others. For two more weary days we went tacking about, the wind somewhat abating. Sometimes we caught sight of the French coast through the mist, and then we tacked back again. At length Eddystone Light came in view, and we knew we were not far from the entrance to Plymouth Sound. Once inside the Breakwater, we felt ourselves in smooth water again. Going upon deck in the morning, I found our ship an- chored in the harbor, nearly opposite Mount Edgecumbe. Nothing could be more lovely than the sight that pre- sented itself. The noble bay, surrounded by rocks, cliffs, cottages Drake's Island, bristling with cannon, leaving open a glimpse into the Hamoaze studded with great hulks of old war-ships the projecting points of Mount Edgecumbe Park, carpeted with green turf down to the 20 ROUND THE WORLD. water, and fringed behind by noble woods, looking like masses of emerald cut into fret- work then, in the dis- tance, the hills of Dartmoor, variegated with many .hues, and swept with alternations of light and shade all these presented a picture the like of which I had never before seen, and feel myself quite incompetent to describe. As we had to wait here for a fair wind, and the gale was still blowing right into the harbor's mouth, there seemed no probability of our setting sail very soon. We had, moreover, to make up our complement of passen- gers and provisions. Those who had a mind according- ly went on shore, strolled through the town, and visited the Hoe, from which a magnificent view of the harbor is obtained, or varied their bill of fare by dining at a hotel. We were, however, cautioned not to sleep on shore, but to return to the ship for the night, and even during the day to keep a sharp lookout for the wind ; for, im- mediately on a change to the nor'ard, no time would be lost in putting out to sea. We were farther informed that, in the case of nearly every ship, passengers, through their own carelessness and dilly-dallying on shore, had been left behind. I determined, therefore, to stick to the ship. After three days' weary waiting, the wind at last went round ; the anchor was weighed with a willing " Yo ! heave ho !" and in a few hours, favored by a fine light breeze, we were well out to sea, and the brown cliffs of Old England gradually faded away in the distance. FLYING SOUTH. 21 CHAPTEE II. FLYING SOUTH. My Fellow-passengers. Life on board Ship. Progress of the Ship. Her Handling. A fine Run down by the Line. Passing Ships. Amusements. Climbing the Mizzen. The Cape de Verd Islands. San Antonio. 3d March. Like all passengers, I suppose, who come together on board ship for a long voyage, we had scarce- ly passed the Eddystone Lighthouse before we began to take stock of each other. Who is this? What is he? Why is he going out ? Such were the questions we in- wardly put to ourselves and sought to answer. I found several, like myself, were making the voyage for their health. A long voyage by sailing ship seems to have become a favorite prescription for lung com- plaints, and it is doubtless an honest one, as the doctor who gives it at the same time parts with his patient and his fees. But the advice is sound, as the long rest of the voyage, the comparatively equable temperature of the sea air, and probably the improved quality of the at- mosphere inhaled, are all favorable to the healthy condi- tion of the lungs as well as of the general system. Of those going out in search of health, some were young and others middle-aged. Among the latter was a patient, gentle sufferer, racked by a hacking cough when he came on board. Another, a young passenger, had been afflicted by abscess in his throat and incipient 22 MOUND THE WOMLD. lung disease. A third had been worried by business and afflicted in his brain, and needed a long rest. A fourth had been crossed in love, and sought for change of scene and occupation. But there were others full of life and health among the passengers, going out in search of fortune or of pleasure. Two stalwart, outspoken, manly fellows, who came on board at Plymouth, were on their way to New Zealand to farm a large tract of land. They seemed to me to be models of what colonial farmers should be. Another was on his way to take up a run in Victoria, some 250 miles north of Melbourne. He had three fine Scotch colley dogs with him, which were the subject of general admiration. We had also a young volunteer on board, who had fig- ured at Brighton reviews, and was now on his way to join his father in New Zealand, where he proposed to join the colonial army. We had also a Yankee gentle- man, about to enter on his governorship of the Guano Island of Maldon, in the Pacific, situated almost due north of the Society Islands, said to have been purchased by an English company. Some were going out " on spec." If they could find an opening to fortune, they would settle; if not, they would return. One gentleman was taking with him a fine portable photographic apparatus, intending to visit New Zealand and Tasmania as well as Australia. Others were going out for indefinite purposes. The small gentleman, for instance, who came on board at Gravesend with the extensive wardrobe, was said to be going out to Australia to grow the atmosphere and cli- mate of the country being reported as having a wonder- FLYING SOUTH. 23 ful effect on growth. Another entertained me with a long account of how he was leaving England because of his wife ; but, as he was of a somewhat priggish nature, I suspect the fault may have been his own as much as hers. And then there was the Major, a military and distin- guished-looking gentleman, who came on board, accom- panied by a couple of shiny new trunks, at Plymouth. He himself threw out the suggestion that the raising of a colonial volunteer army was the grand object of his mission. Anyhow, he had the manners of a gentleman ; and he had seen service, having lost his right arm in the Crimea, and gone all through the Indian Mutiny War with his left. He was full of fun, always in spirits, and a very jolly fellow, though rather given to saying things that would have been better left unsaid. Altogether, we had seventeen saloon passengers on board, including the captain's wife, the only lady at the poop end. There were also probably about eighty sec- ond and third class passengers in the forward parts of the ship. Although the wind was fair and the weather fine, most of the passengers suffered more or less from sea-sickness ; but at length, becoming accustomed to the motion of the ship, they gradually emerged from their cabins, came on deck, and took part in the daily life on board. Let me try and give a slight idea of what this is. At about six every morning we are roused by the sail- ors holystoning the decks, under the superintendence of the officer of the watch. A couple of middies pump up water from the sea by means of a pump placed just be- hind the wheel. It fills the tub until it overflows, run- 24 MOUND THE WOMLD. ning along the scuppers of the poop, and out on to the main deck through a pipe. Here the seamen fill their buckets, and proceed with the scouring of the main deck. Such a scrubbing and mopping ! I need scarcely explain that holystone is a large soft stone, used with water, for scrubbing the dirt off the ship's decks. It rubs down with sand ; the sand is washed off by buckets of water thrown down, all is well mopped, and the deck is then finished off with India-rubber squil- gees. The poop is always kept most bright and clean. Soon after we left port it assumed a greatly-improved appear- ance. The boards began to whiten with the holystoning. Not a grease-mark or spot of dirt was to be seen. All was polished off with hand-scrapers. On Sundays, the ropes on the poop were all neatly coiled, man-of-war fashion not a bight out of place. The brass-work was kept as bright as a gilt button. By the time the passengers dressed and went on deck, the cleaning process was over, and the decks were dry. After half an hour's pacing the poop, the bell would ring for breakfast, the appetite for which would depend very much upon the state of the weather and the lurching of the ship. Between breakfast and lunch, more prome- nading on the poop; the passengers sometimes, if the weather was fine, forming themselves in groups on deck, cultivating each other's acquaintance. During our first days at sea we had some difficulty in finding bur sea-legs. The march of some up and down the poop was often very irregular, and occasionally end- ed in disaster. Yet the passengers were not the only learners ; for one day we saw one of the cabin-boys, car- FLYING SOUTH. 25 rying a heavy ham down the steps from a meat-safe on board, miss his footing in a lurch of the ship, and away went our fine ham into the lee scuppers, spoiled and lost. We lunched at twelve. From thence, until dinner at five, we mooned about on deck as before, or visited sick passengers, or read in our respective cabins, or passed the time in conversation, and thus the day wore on. After dinner the passengers drew together in parties and became social. In the pleasantly-lit saloon, some of the elders subsided into whist, while the juniors sought the middies in their cabin on the main deck, next door to the sheep-pen; there they entertained themselves and each other with songs, accompanied by the concertina and clouds of tobacco-smoke. The progress of the ship was a subject of constant in- terest. It was the first thing in the morning and the last at night ; and all through the day, the direction of the wind, the state of the sky and the weather, and the rate we \\:ere going at, were the uppermost topics of conver- sation. When we left port the wind was blowing fresh on our larboard quarter from the northeast, and we made good progress across the Bay of Biscay ; but, like many of our passengers, I was too much occupied by private affairs to attend to the nautical business going on upon deck. All I know was that the "wind was fair, and that we were go- ing at a good rate. On the fourth day I found that we were in the latitude of Cape Finisterre, and that we had run 168 miles in the preceding twenty-four hours. From this time forward, having got accustomed to the motion of the ship, I felt sufficiently well to be on deck early and late, watching the handling of the ship. B 26 ROUND THE WORLD. It was a fine sight to look up at the cloud of canvas above, bellied out by the wind, like the wings of a gi- gantic bird, while the ship bounded through the water, dashing it in foam from her bows, and sometimes dip- ping her prow into the waves, and sending aloft a show- er of spray. There was always something new to admire in the ship, and the way in which she was handled ; as, for in- stance, to see the topgallant sails hauled down when the wind freshened, or a staysail set as the wind went round to the east. The taking in of the mainsail on a stormy night was a thing to be remembered for life; twenty- four men on the great yard at a time, clewing it in to the music of the wind whistling through the rigging. The men sing out cheerily at their work, the one who mounts the highest, or stands the foremost on the deck, usually taking the lead Hawl on the bowlin, The jolly ship's a-rollin ; Hawl on the bowlin, And we'll all drink rum. In comes the rope with a " Yo, heave ho !" and a jerk, until the " belay" sung out by the mate signifies that the work is done. Then there is the scrambling on the deck when the wind changes quarter, and the yards want squaring as the wind blows more aft. Such are among the interesting sights to be seen on deck when the wind is in her tantrums at sea. On the fifth day the wind was blowing quite aft. Our run during the twenty-four hours was 172 miles. Ther- mometer 58. The captain is in hopes of a most favor- able run to the Cape. It is our first Sunday on board, FLYING SOUTH. 27 and at 10 30 the bell rings for service, when the passen- gers of all classes assemble in the saloon. The alternate standing and kneeling during the service is rather un- comfortable, the fixed seats jamming the legs, and the body leaning over at an unpleasant angle when the ship rolls, which she frequently does, and rather savagely. Going upon deck next morning, I found the wind blowing strong from the north, and the ship going through the water at a splendid pace. As much sail was on as she could carry, and she dashed along, leav- ing a broad track of foam in her wake. The captain is in high glee at the speed at which we are going. "A fine run down to the Line!" he says, as he walks the poop, smiling and rubbing his hands, while the middies are enthusiastic in praises of the good ship, " walking the waters like a thing of life." The spirits of all on board are raised by several degrees. We have the pleasure of feeling ourselves bounding forward, on toward the sunny South. There is no resting, but a constant pressing on- ward, and, as we look over the bulwarks, the waves, tip- ped by the foam which the ship has raised, seem to fly behind us at a prodigious speed. At midday we find the ship's run during the twenty-four hours has been 280 miles a splendid day's work, almost equal to steam ! "We are now in latitude 39 16', about due east of the Azores. The air is mild and warm; the sky is azure, and the sea intensely blue. How different from the weather in the English Channel only a short week ago! Bugs are now discarded, and winter clothing begins to feel almost oppressive. In the evenings, as we hang over the taffrail, we watch with interest the bluish-white sparks mingling with the light blue foam near the stern 28 ROUND THE WORLD. the first indications of that phosphorescence which, I am told, we shall find so bright in the tropics. An always interesting event at sea is the sighting of a distant ship. To-day we signaled the " Maitland," of London, a fine ship, though she was rolling a great deal, beating up against the wind that was impelling us so prosperously forward. I hope she will report us on ar- rival, to let friends at home know we are so far all right on our voyage. The wind still continues to blow in our wake, but not so strongly ; yet we make good progress. The weather keeps very fine. The sky seems to get clearer, the sea bluer, and the weather more brilliant, and even the sails look whiter, as we fly south. About midday on the eighth day after leaving Plymouth we are in the latitude of Madeira, which we pass about forty miles distant. As the wind subsides, and the novelty of being on shipboard wears off, the passengers begin to think of amusements. One can not be always reading; and as for study, though I try Spanish and French alternately, I can not settle to them, and begin to think that life on shipboard is not very favorable for study. We play at qnoits using quoits of rope on the poop, for a good part of the day ; but this soon becomes monotonous, and we begin to consider whether it may not be possible to get up some entertainment on board to make the time pass pleasantly. "We had a few extempore concerts in one of the middle's berths. The third-class passengers got up a miscellaneous entertainment, including recitals, which went off very well. One of the tragic -recitations was so well received that it was encored. And thus the time was whiled away, while we still kept flying south. FLYING SOUTH. 29 On the ninth day we are well south of Madeira. The sun is so warm at midday that an awning is hung over the deck, and the shade it affords is very grateful. We are now in the trade winds, which blow pretty steadily at this part of our course in a southwesterly direction, and may generally be depended upon until we near the equator. At midday of the tenth day I find we have run 180 miles in the last twenty-four hours, with the wind still steady on our quarter. We have passed Tene- riffe, about 130 miles distant too remote to see it, though I am told that, had we been twenty miles nearer, we should probably have seen the famous peak. To while away the time, and by way of a little adven- ture, I determined at night to climb the mizzen mast with a fellow-passenger. While leaving the deck I was chalk- ed by a middy, in token that I was in for my footing, so as to be free of the mizzen-top. I succeeded in reaching it safely, though, to a green hand as I was, it looks and really feels somewhat perilous at first. I was sensible of the feeling of fear or apprehension just at the moment of getting over the cross-trees. Your body hangs over in mid-air at a terrible incline backward, and you have to hold on like any thing for just one moment, until you get your knee up into the top. The view of the ship un- der press of canvas from the mizzen-top is very grand, and the phosphorescence in our wake, billow upon billow of light shining foam, seemed more brilliant than ever. The wind again freshens, and on the eleventh day we make another fine run of 230 miles. It is becoming rapidly warmer, and we shall soon be in the region of bonitos, albatrosses, and flying fish only a fortnight after leaving England ! Our second Sunday at sea was beautiful exceedingly. 30 RO UND ,THE WORLD. We had service in the saloon as usual, and after church I climbed the mizzen, and had half an hour's nap on the top. Truly this warm weather and monotonous sea life seems very favorable for dreaming, and mooning, and loafing. In the evening there was some very good hymn- singing in the second-class cabin. Early next morning, when pacing the poop, we were startled by the cry from a man on the forecastle of " Land ho !" I found, by the direction of the captain's eyes, that the land seen lay off our weather-beam. But, though I strained my -eyes looking for the land, I could see nothing. It was not for hours that I could detect it, and then it looked more like a cloud than any thing else. At length the veil lifted, and I saw the land stretching away to the eastward. It was the island of San Antonio, one of the Cape de Yerds. As we neared the land, and saw it more distinctly, it looked a grand object. Though we were then some fif- teen miles off, yet the highest peaks, which w r ere above the clouds, some thousands of feet high, were so clear and so beautiful that they looked as if they had been stolen out of the " Arabian Nights," or some fairy tale of wonder and beauty. The island is said to be alike famous for its oranges and pretty girls. Indeed the Major, who is very good at drawing the long bow, declared that he could see a very interesting female waving her hand to him from a rock ! With the help of the telescope we could certain- ly see some of th$ houses on shore. As this is the last land we are likely to see until we reach Australia, we regard it with all the greater interest, and I myself watched it in the twilight until it faded away into a blue mist on the horizon. WITHIN TEE TROPICS. 31 CHAPTEE III. WITHIN THE TKOPICS. Increase of Temperature. Flying Fish. The Morning Bath on board. Paying my "Footing." The Major's wonderful Story "capped." St. Patrick's Day. Grampuses. A Ship in Sight. The "Lord Rag- lan." Rainfall in the Tropics. Tropical Sunsets. The Yankee Whaler. Vlih March. We are now fairly within the tropics. The heat increases day by day. This morning, at eight, the temperature was 87 in my cabin. At midday, with the sun nearly overhead, it is really hot. The sky is of a cloudless azure, with a hazy appearance toward the ho- rizon. The sea is blue dark, deep blue and calm. Now we see plenty of flying fish. Whole shoals of the glittering little things glide along in the air, skimming the tops of the waves. They rise to escape their pursu- ers, the bonitos, which rush after them, showing their noses above the water now and then. But the poor fly- ing fish have their enemies above the waters as well as under them, for they no sooner rise than they risk be- coming the prey of the ocean birds which are always hovering about and ready to pounce upon them. It is a case of " out of the frying-pan into the fire." They fly farther than I thought they could. I saw one of them to-day fly at least sixty yards, and sometimes they mount so high as to reach the poop, some fifteen feet from the surface of the water. 32 MOUND THE WORLD. One of the most pleasant events of the day is the morning bath on board. You must remember the lati- tude we are in. We are passing along, though not in sight of, that part of the African coast where a necklace is considered full dress. We sympathize with the na- tives, for we find clothes becoming intolerable ; hence our enjoyment of the morning bath, which consists in getting into a large tub on board, and being pumped upon by the hose. Pity that one can not have it later, as it leaves such a long interval between bath and break- fast ; but it freshens one up wonderfully, and is an ex- tremely pleasant operation. I only wish that the tub were twenty times as large, and the hose twice as strong. The wind continues in our favor, though gradually subsiding. During the last two days we have run over 200 miles each day, but the captain says that by the time we reach the Line the wind will have completely died away. To catch a little of the breeze, I go up the rig- ging to the top. Two sailors came up mysteriously, one on each side of the ratlines. They are terrible fellows for making one pay " footings," and their object was to intercept my retreat downward. When they reached me I tried to resist, but it was of no use. I must be tied to the rigging unless I promised the customary bottle of rum ; so I gave in with a good grace, and was thencefor- ward free to take an airing aloft. The amusements on deck do not vary much. Quoits, cards, reading, and talking, and sometimes a game of romps, such as " Walk, my lady, walk !" We have tried to form a committee, with a view to getting up some Penny Eeading or theatrical entertainment, and to ascer- tain whether there be any latent talent aboard, but the WITHIN THE TROPIC 8. 33 heat occasions such a languor as to be very unfavorable for work, and the committee lay upon their oars, doing nothing. One of our principal sources of amusement is the Ma- jor. He is unfailing. His drawings of the long bow are as good as a theatrical entertainment. If any one tells a story of something wonderful, he at once " caps it," as they say in Yorkshire, by something still more wonderful. One of the passengers who had been at Cal- cutta, speaking of the heat there, said it was so great as to make the pitch run out of the ship's sides. " Bah !" said the Major, " that is nothing to what it is in Ceylon ; there the heat is so great as to melt the soldiers' buttons off on parade, and then their jackets all get loose." It seems that to-day (the 17th) is St. Patrick's Day. This the Major, who is an Irishman, discovered only late in the evening, when he 'declared he would have. "given a fiver" if he had only known it in the morning. But, to make up for lost time, he called out forthwith, " Stew- ard ! whisky !" and he disposed of some seven or eight glasses in the saloon before the lamps were put out, after which he adjourned to one of the cabins, and there con- tinued the celebration of St. Patrick's Day until about two o'clock in the morning. On getting up rather late, he said to himself, loud enough for me to overhear in my cabin, "Well, George, my boy, you've done your duty to St. Patrick, but he's left you a horrible bad headache !" And no wonder. , At last there is a promised novelty on board. Some original Christy's Minstrels are in rehearsal, and the the- atrical committee are looking up amateurs for a farce. Readings from Dickens are also spoken of. An occa- B2 34 ROUND THE WORLD. sional whale is seen blowing in the distance, and many grampuses come rolling about the ship most inelegant brutes, some three or four times the size of a porpoise. Each in turn comes up, throws himself round on the top of the sea, exposing nearly half his body, and then rolls off again. To-day (the 20th of March) we caught our first fish from the forecastle a bonito, weighing about seven pounds. Its color was beautifully variegated: on the back dark blue, with a streak of light blue silver on either side, and the belly silvery white. These fish are usual- ly caught from the jibboom and the martingale, as they play about the bows of the ship. The only bait is a piece of white rag, which is bobbed upon the surface of the water to imitate a flying fish. But what interests us more than any thing else at pres- ent is tjie discovery of some homeward-bound ship, by which to dispatch our letters to friends at home. The captain tells us that we are now almost directly in the track of vessels making for England from the south, and that, if we do not sight one in the course of a day or two, we may not liave the chance of seeing another until we are far on our way south if at all. We are, therefore, anxiously waiting for the -signal of a ship in sight; and, in the hope that one may appear, we are all busily en- gaged in the saloon giving the finishing touches to our home letters. Shortly after lunch the word was given that no less than three ships were in sight. Immense excitement on board! Every body turned up on deck. Passengers who had never been seen since leaving Plymouth now made their appearance to look out for the ships. One WITHIN THE TROPICS. 35 of them was a steamer, recognizable by the line of smoke on the horizon, supposed to be the West India mail-boat ; another was outward-bound, like ourselves ; and the third was the hoineward-bound ship for which we were all on the lookout. She lay right across our bows, but was still a long way off. As we neared her, betting began among the passengers, led by the Major, as to whether she would take letters or not. The scene became quite exciting. The captain ordered all who had letters to be in readi- npss. I had been scribbling my very hardest ever since the ships came in sight, and now I closed my letter and sealed it up. Would the ship take our letters ? Yes. She is an English ship, with an English flag at her peak ; and she signals for newspapers, preserved milk, soap, and a doctor ! I petitioned for leave to accompany the doctor, and, to my great delight, was allowed to do so. The wind had nearly gone quite down, and only came in occasional slight gusts. The sea was, therefore, comparatively calm, with only a long, slow swell ; yet, even though calm, there is some little difficulty in getting down into a boat in mid-ocean. At one moment the boat is close under you, and at the next she is some four yards down, and many feet apart from the side of the ship ; you have, therefore, to be prompt in seizing an opportunity, and springing on board just at the right moment. As we moved away from the " Yorkshire" with a good bundle of newspapers and the other articles signaled for, and looked back upon our ship, she really looked a grand object on the waters. The sun shone full upon her ma- jestic hull, her bright copper now and then showing as she slowly rose and sank on the long swell. Above all 36 BOUND THE WORLD. were her towers of white canvas, standing out in relief against the leaden-colored sky. Altogether, I don't think I have ever seen a more magnificent sight. As we part- ed from the ship, the hundred or more people on board gave us a ringing cheer. Our men now pulled with a will toward the still-dis- tant ship. As we neared her, we observed that she must have encountered very heavy weather, as part of her foremast and mainmast had been carried away. Her sides looked dirty and worn, and all her iron- work was rusty, as if she had been a long time at sea. She proved to be the " Lord Raglan," of about 800 tons, bound from Bankok, in Siam, to Yarmouth. The captain was delighted to see us, and gave us a most cordial welcome. He was really a very nice fellow, and was kindness itself. He took us down to his cabin, and treated us to Chinese beer and segars. The place was cheerful and comfortable looking, and fitted up with Indian and Chinese curiosities, yet I could scarcely recon- cile myself to living there. There was a dreadful fusty smell about, which, I am told, is peculiar to Indian and Chinese ships. The vessel was laden with rice, and the fusty heat which came up from below was something awful. The " Lord Raglan" had been nearly two years from London. She had run from London to Hong Kong, and had since been engaged in trading between there and Siam. She was now eighty-three days from Bankok. In this voyage she had encountered some very heavy weather, in which she had sprung her foremast, which was now spliced up all round. What struck me was the lightness of her spars and the smallness of her sails com- WITHIN THE TROPICS. 37 pared with ours. Although her mainmast is as tall, it is not so thick as our mizzen, and her spars are very slen- der above the first top. Yet the "Raglan," in her best days, used to be one of the crack Melbourne clipper ships. The kindly-natured captain was most loth to let us go. It was almost distressing to see the expedients he adopt- ed to keep us with him for a few minutes longer. But it was fast growing dusk, and in the tropics it darkens almost suddenly ; so we were at last obliged to tear our- selves away, and leave him with his soap, milk, and news- papers. He, on his part, sent by us a twenty-pound chest of tea as a present for the chief mate (who was with us) and the captain. As we left the ship's side we gave the master and crew of the " Raglan" a hearty " three times three." All this while the two ships had been lying nearly becalmed, so that we had not a very long pull be- fore we were safely back on board our ship. For about five days we lie nearly idle, making very little progress, almost on the Line. The trade winds have entirely left us. The heat is tremendous 130 in the sun ; and at midday, when the sun is right overhead, it is difficult to keep the deck. Toward evening the coolness is very pleasant ; and when rain falls, as it can only fall in the tropics, we rush out to enjoy the bath. We assume the thinnest of bizarre costumes, and stand still under the torrent, or vary the pleasure by emptying buckets over each other. We are now in lat. 22', close upon the equator. Though our sails are set, we are not sailing, but only floating indeed, we seem to be drifting. On looking round the horizon, I count no fewer than sixteen ships in sight, all in the same plight as ourselves. We are drawn 38 ROUND THE WORLD. together by an under-current or eddy, though scarcely a breath of wind is stirring. "We did not, however, speak any of the ships, most of them being comparatively dis- tant. We cross the Line about 8 P.M. on the twentieth day from Plymouth. "We have certainly had a very fine run thus far, slow though our progress now is, for we are only going at the rate of about a mile an hour; but when we have got a little farther south we expect to get out of the tropical calms and catch the southeast trade winds. On the day following, the 24th of March, a breeze sprang up, and we made a run of 187" miles. We have now passed the greatest heat, and shortly expect cooler weather. Our spirits rise with the breeze, and we again begin to think of getting up some entertainments on board ; for, though we have run some 4800 miles from Plymouth, we have still some fifty days before us ere we expect to see Melbourne. One thing that strikes me much is the magnificence of the tropical sunsets. The clouds assume all sorts of fan- tastic shapes, and appear more solid and clearly defined than I have ever seen before. Toward evening they seem to float in color purple, pink, red, and yellow al- ternately while the sky near the setting sun seems of a beautiful green, gradually melting into the blue sky above. The great clouds on the horizon look like moun- tains tipped with gold and fiery red. One of these sun- sets was a wonderful sight. The sun went down into the sea between two enormous clouds the only ones to be seen and they blazed with the brilliant colors I have described, which were constantly changing, until the clouds stood out in dark relief against the still delicately WITHIN THE TROPICS. 39 tinted sky. I got up frequently to see the sun rise, but in the tropics it is not nearly so fine at its rising as at its setting. A ship was announced as being in sight, with a signal flying to speak with us. We were sailing along under a favorable breeze, but our captain put the ship about and waited for the stranger. It proved to be a Yankee whaler. When the captain came on board, he said " he guessed he only wanted newspapers." Our skipper was in a " roaring wax" at being stopped in his course for such a trivial matter, but he said nothing. The whaler had been out four years, and her last port was Honolulu, in the Sandwich Islands. The Yankee captain, among other things, wanted to know if Grant was President, and if the "Alabama" Question was settled; he was in- terested in the latter question, as the "Alabama" had burnt one of his ships. He did not seem very comfort- able while on board, and when he had got his papers he took his leave. I could not help admiring the whale- boat in which he was rowed back to his own vessel. It was a beautiful little thing, though dirty ; but it had doubtless seen much service. It was exquisitely model- ed, and the two seamen in the little craft handled it to perfection. How they contrived to stand up in it quite steady, while the boat, sometimes apparently half out of the water, kept rising and falling on the long ocean swell, seemed to me little short of marvelous. 40 ROUND THE WORLD. CHAPTER IY. April Fools' Day. A Ship in Sight. The " Pyrmont. " The Eescued "Blue Jacket" Passengers. Story of the burnt Ship. Suffering of the Lady Passengers in an open Boat. Their Rescue. Distressing Scene on board the "Pyrmont." \st April. I was roused early this morning by the cry outside of " Get up ! get up ! There is a ship on fire ahead !" I got up instantly, dressed, and hastened on deck, like many more. But there was no ship on fire ; and then we laughed, and remembered that it was All- Fools' Day. In the course of the forenoon we descried a sail, and shortly after we observed that she was bearing down upon us. The cry of " Letters for home !" was raised, and we hastened below to scribble a few last words, close our letters, and bring them up for the letter-bag. By this time the strange ship had drawn considerably nearer, and we saw that she was a barque, heavily laden. She proved to be the " Pyrmont," a German vessel be- longing to Hamburg, but now bound for Yarmouth from Iquique, with a cargo of saltpetre on board. When she came near enough to speak us, our captain asked, " What do you want ?" The answer was, " i Blue Jacket' burnt at sea ; her passengers on board. Have you a doctor ?" Here was a sensation ! Our April Fools' alarm was true, after all. A vessel had been on fire, and here were THE " BL UE JACKET." 41 the poor passengers asking for help. We knew nothing of the " Blue Jacket," but soon we were to know all. A boat was at once lowered from the davits, and went off with the doctor and the first mate. It was a hazy, sultry, tropical day, with a very slight breeze stirring, and very little sea. Our main yard was backed to pre- vent our farther progress, and both ships lay-to within a short distance of each other. We watched our boat un- til we saw the doctor and officer mount the " Pyrmont," and then waited for farther intelligence. Shortly after we saw our boat leaving the ship's side, and as it approached we observed that it contained some strangers as well as our doctor, who had returned for medicines, lint, and other appliances. When the stran- gers reached the deck we found that one of them was the first officer of the unfortunate " Blue Jacket," and the other one of the burnt-out passengers. The latter, poor fellow, looked a piteous sight. He had nothing on but a shirt and a pair of trowsers ; his hair was matted, his face haggard, his eyes sunken. He was without shoes, and his feet was so sore that he could scarcely walk without support. And yet it turned out that this poor suffering fellow was one of the best-conditioned of those who had been saved from the burnt ship. He told us how that the whole of the fellow-passengers whom he had just left on board the " Pyrmont" wanted clothes, shirts, and shoes, and were in a wretched state, having been tossed about at sea in an open boat for about nine days, during which they had suffered the extremities of cold, thirst, and hanger. We were horrified by the appearance, and etill more 42 ROUND THE WORLD. by the recital, of the poor fellow. Every moment he astonished us by new details of horror. But it was of no use listening to more. We felt we must do some- thing. All the passengers at once bestirred themselves, and went into their cabins to seek out any clothing they could spare for the relief of the sufferers. I found I could give trowsers, shirts, a pair of drawers, a blanket, and several pocket-handkerchiefs ; and as the other pas- sengers did likewise, a very fair bundle was soon made up and sent on board the " Pyrmont." Of course, we were all eager to know something of the details of the calamity which had befallen the " Blue Jacket." It was some time before we learned them all ; but as two of the passengers who had been gold-dig- gers in New- Zealand were so good as to write out a statement for the doctor, the original of which now lies before me, I will endeavor, in as few words as I can, to give you some idea of the burning of the ship and the horrible sufferings of the passengers. The " Blue Jacket" sailed from Port Lyttleton, New Zealand, for London on the 13th of February, 1869, laden with wool, cotton, flax, and 15,000 ounces of gold. There were seven first-cabin passengers and seventeen second-cabin. The ship had a fine run to Cape Horn and past the Falkland Islands. All went well until the 9th of March, when, in latitude 50 26' south, one of the seamen, about midday, observed smoke issuing from the fore-hatch-house. The cargo was on fire ! All haste was made to extinguish it. The fire-engines were set to work, passengers as well as crew working with a will, and at one time it seemed as if the fire would be got un- der. The hatch was opened, and the second mate at- THE "BLUE JA CEET. " 43 tempted to go down, with the object of getting up and throwing overboard the burning bales, but he was drawn back insensible. The hatch was again closed, and holes were cut in the deck to pass the water down ; but the seat of the fire could not be reached. The cutter was lowered, together with the two life-boats, for' use in case of need. About 7 30 P.M. the fire burst through the decks, and in about half an hour the whole forecastle was enveloped in flames, which ran up the rigging, lick- ing up the foresail and fore-top. The mainmast being of iron, the flames rushed through the tube as through a chimney, until it became of a white heat. The lady pas- sengers in the after part of the ship must have been kept in a state of total ignorance of the ship's danger, other- wise it is impossible to account for their having to rush on board the boats at the last moment with only the dresses they wore. Only a few minutes before they left the ship, one of the ladies was playing the " Guards' Waltz" on the cabin piano ! There was no hope of safety but in the boats, which were hurriedly got into. On deck, every thing was in a state of "confusion. Most of the passengers got into the cutter, but without a seaman to take charge of it. When the water-cask was lowered, it was sent bung downward, and nearly half the water was lost. By this time the burning ship was a grand but fearful sight, and the roar of the flames was frightful to hear. At length the cut- ter and the two life-boats got away, and as they floated astern the people in them saw the masts disappear one by one, and the hull of the ship a roaring mass of fire. In the early gray of the morning the three boats mus- tered, and two of the passengers, who were on one of the 44 ROUND THE WORLD. life-boats, were taken on board the cutter. It now con- tained thirty-seven persons, including the captain, first officer, doctor, steward, purser, several able-bodied sea- men, and all the passengers; while the two life-boats had thirty-one of the crew. The boats drifted about all day, there being no wind, and the burning ship w r as still in sight. On the third day the life-boats were not to be seen ; each had a box of gold on board by way of ballast. A light breeze having sprung up, sail was made on the cutter, the captain intending to run for the Falkland Isl- ands. The sufferings of the passengers increased from day to day ; they soon ran short of water, until the day's allowance was reduced to about two table-spoonfuls for each person. It was pitiful to hear the little children calling for more, but it could not be given them : men, women, and children had to share alike. Provisions failed. The biscuit had been spoiled by the salt water ; all that remained in the way of food was preserved meat, which was soon exhausted, after which the only allow- ance, besides the two table-spoonfuls of water, was a table-spoonful of preserved soup every twenty-four hours. Meanwhile the wind freshened, the sea rose, and the waves came dashing over the passengers, completely drenching them. The poor ladies, thinly clad, looked the pictures of misery. Thus seven days passed days of slow agony, such as words can not describe until at last the joyous words " A sail ! a sail" roused the sufferers to new life. A man was sent to the mast-head with a red blanket to hoist by way of signal of distress. The ship saw the signal, and bore down upon the cutter. She proved to be the " Pyrmont," the ship lying within sight of us, and THE '