iBJ!iiPil^!iii|||iiliy &«'** ii,^':;!ilS H^HJ ■ ^^^HiHi^isKl ^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^bSj^^'^Kk^^S^^^^^^^^^ S&RiL THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES SUNNY SOUTH AUSTRALIA Colonel Light. Boiji at Malacca in 1785. Died at Adelaide on October 5, 1839. C?'-^ I <= SUNNY SOUTH AUSTRALIA (WITH -200 ILLUSTRATIONS) ITS CITY-TOWNS, SEAPORTS, BEAUTY-SPOTS, FRUIT, VINEYARDS, AND FLOWERS; ITS WHEAT, WOOL, WINE, SHEEP, DAIRYING, COPPER, IRON, PHOSPHATES, AND OTHER PRO- GRESSIVE INDUSTRIES FROM 1837 TO 1908 WITH MAP 4,000 MILES OF TRAVEL MAY VIVIENNE ADELAIDE HUSSEY & (DILLINGHAM 1908 FIRST EDITION, JUNE, IfJOS. SECOND EDITION, JANUARY, 1909. All fii- J7U 310 I r <4 "He is a jncsence to be frit and kiwicn, In (hirl-iicss ni)(J in liiilif. from herb and !;ton< /' — Shelloy, DEDICATED TO THE MEMORY OF COLONEL LIGHT, THE FOUNDER OF ADELAIDE, THE BEAUTIFUL GARDEN CITY OF AUSTRALIA. "He has out soared the shndoxr of our night; Envy and Cidumni/. and liair and pnin, And that nnrcsf irhich mm niisrall delight, Can touch him md nar torture liim again.'^ — Slielley. S4 JN rKEFARATION THE GREAT SILVER MINES OF BROKEN HILL i;v MAY VIVIENNE "If I Clin iifid uni' j)i)lni uj liijlit to the sku I shiill lint liiii'c lind ill ni'iii." — Emeisoii. Ai'TlWlVS XOTE. In >inj firxf Ijook on A i/sfralin, "Tiavch in W'rsteni Aua- frnlia," I (/csrr/hcd tin- (jolil r^'sourcj'x, niniuuj fownfihips, /■i(nij)s, fnrcxts, tnnh( r-niilh, and wild fnifcix of tlic "(rijJden West." It is Jioir //ii/ pl(:(is(tnt tush In re real to inij readem the ironders of tliis s/sf( r Strife, ■■Si/niii/ Soiitli Aust nd m ," the nuKj- nittide and riehness of irhieli I had no idea of until 1 had tjeeii over it. My travels covered many tlioiisands of miles through the copper-mines, iron-mines, smeltiny-irorks, .^alt-ivorks, pas- tored-lands, sltee p-st;lit. COLONEL light's STATUE IN VICTORIA SQVAUE. DECOKATED FOR ITS UNVEl LING . 6 SUNNY SOUTH AUSTRALIA. guese, Cajitaiu Fernando Magathaeus, circumnavigated the globe in a ship called the ■Victorian" and discovered what is now ''Australia." The Dutch in 1605 laid claim to the first discovery ; but in looking up Portuguese history, this is disproved by Portu- guese writings — "Corn peiu/io (iedf/rd pli ino esfudifico de Portu- gal y siis poss/iiions iiltr(i/n(irii/ns," meaning, "Study Portuguese and Spanish history re their possessions." Spanish and French navigators also lay claim to the first discovery, as many of their vessels were in those days sailing the unknown seas in search of new lands. The Dutch followed suit, and in 1605 the Cap- tain of the Dutch yacht "Duyfen," having previously explored the islands of New Guinea, sailed down the south-west coast of the great continent. In 1618 Commodore Peslart's ship, the "Batavia," was wrecked off the coast on the Abrolhos Islands, Western Australia, 25 miles from the mainland ; and the sub- sequent massacre of 120 of the shipwrecked people — by the crew — on the island where they had taken refvige, so disheart- ened the Dutch that New Holland, as they called it, was for- saken as a most inhospitable and dangerous country. The first Englishman known to those who set foot on the continent was William Dampier, in 1683. This bold mariner, who was known then as 'the Prince of Voyagers" and "the Buccaneer," had previously, with some bold comrades, seized a Danish vessel, which they humorously named "The Bachelors' Delight," and set off for a voyage round the world. After some wild and reckless exploits, Dampier gained command of another vessel, called the "Cygnet," in which he sailed to the Philippines, thence to the Isle of Timor, and afterwards approached New Holland. On landing on the western shores he was most unfavourably impressed with it. He is the first to mention the kangaroo (not then named) ; but described by him as "a sort of raccoon, dif- ferent from that of the West Indies, chiefly as to the legs, for they have very short forelegs, and jumj) upon llieir hind ones; they are very good meat." He sailed away with no reluctance, not liking the country or the savages, as he terms the aborigines. Coming to later years, more interesting perhaps to the ris- ing generation, we find that the French frequently sent vessels CAPTAIN FLINDERS. 7 to explore the great south land, but did not take possession of it. That work was left for our great Captain Cook, who landed in 1770 at wliat is now called Botany Bay, New South Wales, and took possession of the continent in the name of His Majesty the King of England. The coast of South Australia was first discovered December 3, 1800, by Lieutenant Grant, R.N., H.M.S. "Lady Nelson." The Lieutenant was sailing along the coast towards Bass Strait, on the voyage from England to Syd- ney, and particularly noted the hill, which he named Mount Gambier, marking it specially in his chart. He did not, how- ever, examine the shore, but through his glowing reports of the coast, as seen from the ship, Governor King notified the Home Government that he thought that i^art of the continent should be explored to see if an entrance to an inland sea could be found. Captain Matthew Flinders, a young naval officer, full of energy and courage, took up the work. He loved adventure, and was never so happy as when exploring unknown seas and shores. In 1801 the British Government equipped a vessel called the "Investigator," and commissioned Captain Flinders to thoroughly explore the east coast of the continent, in that appro- priately-named vessel. The work this great man achieved can be imagined by looking at the map of South Australia, and noting the coves, ports, bays, capes, etc., which he named. Cap- tain Flinders's companions in this memorable voyage were John (afterwards Sir John) Franklin, the renowned Arctic explorer : W. Westall, the great landscape painter : and R. Brown, the celebrated botanist : also John Thistle, master : Lieutenant Fow- ler ; Midshipman Taylor: and the crew, six of whom, with the masfcer, were unfortunately drowned. They had gone in a cut- ter to the shore to take observations, and on returning were upset during a sudden squall, the unknown tides being so strong that Lieutenant Fowler, with a boat's crew, going in search of them — as they were so long in returning — was almost wreck- ed. After remaining in the vicinity for some days, and vainly searching the coast, hoping to find some of the lost crew, the Captain sorrowfully sailed away, naming the melancholy place "Memory Cove," and the adjacent headland "Cape Catastrophe." Cai'tain Matthew Fmndkks, the gkeat navigator and discoverer, hut i'ou avhose historic voyage IN THE "investigator" SOUTH AUSTHAl.IA WOILD HAVE BECOME FRENCH TERRITORY. 10 SUNNY SOUTH AUSTRALIA. In 1829 Western Australia was founded, and we now return to 1836, when the first Governor of South Australia. Captain John Ilindmarsh, arrived, who, as a lad. had dis- tinguished himself greatly at the battle of Trafalgar, under Lord Nelson. He first went into action when only twelve years old, in what is known in English history as T^ord Howe's glori- ous June the First. 1794 : and his earliest distinction was won at the battle of the Nile, in 1799, when seventeen years old. His vessel, the ■"Bellcrophon," was in the thickest of the fight, and young midshipman Hind- marsh, who for some time was the only officer alive on deck, received a wound in the eye, which finally depriv- ed him of his sight. The opposing vessel, the "L'Ori- ent," caught fire, and to save the "Bellerophon'' Midship- man Hindmarsh ordered the cable to be cut, and her sprit-sail to be set. The "Bel- lcrophon" moved away, and the enemy blew up and sank. The middy had sav- ed the ship, and on the same dav r.,ord Nelson publicly thanked the young hero. He was knighted in 1851, and obtained the rank of Rear-Admiral in 1856. So the first Governor and the first Surveyor of South Australia had the honour of distinguishing themselves under two of the greatest warriois old England ever had — Com- mander-in-Chief His Grace the Diike of Wellington, and Ad- miral Lord Horatio Nelson. The historic gxim-tree, under whose boughs on December 28, 1836, Governor Hindmarsh proclaimed the Province of South Australia, still stands. It is now bent in the shape of a cres- ^N ^B i mhBi@ wm M ^^^^Ejj^^ V^--' Captain Hiiulmarsh. 12 SUNNY SOUTH AUSTRALIA. cent, and shows signs of decay. It is minus the sheltering bougli, but is a landmark to all South Australians. The dear old eucalyptus remains — a triumphal arch to mark the jorogress of the State. Many old pioneers rally round it on Commemcration Day at Glenelg, that day being kept up as a national festival ; and the Glenelg folks seem to be very proud to think they live in the town that is really the birthplace of the State. Mr. H. T. Morris, of Kapunda, is, I tliink, the most in- teresting pioneer now living. He arrived on December 28, 1836, with his uncle, Captain Hindmarsh, in the "Buffalo," and thus mentions his first impressions of Australia : — "I re- member mv uncle saying to me : 'Harrv. run up the main-rig- ring and tell me what ycu think of the country.' I went up obediently, and had a good look. When I came down I told him ashore it looked quite like tlie Old Country. It looked as if it were covered with wheat-fields, whose fences were the dark shadows made by gullies in the hills. There was beautiful kan- garoo-grass, which we found to be nearly hip-high when we walked through it : and the shadows thrown by the hills lent an air of enchantment to tlie scene. There was, of course, no jetty at which to land, and the men had to wade ashore from the boats, while the women folk were carried, as also were the children in arms, of whom there were several. It was inter- esting to watch the cargo as well as the passengers being car- ried ashore from the 'Buffalo.' tlie Cygnet,' and other ships by the sailors. All goods had to be taken by a hand-truck, or else carried, for there were no horses. We landed the first quadrupeds from the Buffalo,' as well as the first hand-truck in South Australia. The animals were two mules, one cow, eight or ten pigs, a few sheep, and some geese and ducks. Taking care of the animals was my first job in the new country. I looked after them for some time, and also had charge of some more sheep that came from Tasmania. Tliese were sent as a present to Sir John Hindmarsh by Mr. Kcrmode, of Tasmania. When we first landed the n;en set to work and built sheds of reeds and bushes, in which they were helped by the women. The furniture, etc., was temporarily stored in these places prior 14 SUNNY SOUTH AUSTRALIA. to removal to Adelaide, or, rather, where Adelaide now is; and in them we lived for some time. A few days after our arrival Sir James Hurtle Fisher and Sir George Kingston walked up to Adelaide, and I went with them. They called on Colonel Light, who was then living in a reed-and-bough hut on the banks of the Torrens. The scene was strikingly beautiful, as we first saw it, with the river and tlie liills and the fresh country all about." An important document, relating to the first days of South Australia, has recently been presented to the Government by Miss Hindmarsh. grand-daughter of the first Governor, on be- half of her bro- ther, Mr. John Hindmarsh. It is a document cf the Gover- nor's commis- sion and the charter autho- rizing the es- tablishment of t he province. The parchment is bordered by svmbolic fig- ures and scroll designs, with pictures of William the Fourth and Queen Adelaide. On the top in bold writing — the letters are inches long and wide — are the words : ^ — "William the Fourth, liy the grace of God," and the docu- ment sets out that it is an Act to empower His Majesty to erect South Australia into a British province or provinces, and to provide for the colonization and government thereof. ''The ordinary seal is fixed on the top left-hand corner, and there is also a seal of beeswax, showing on one side the representation of the King on his throne ; and on the otlier a horseman, in the typical dress of the time, jorobably the figure of William the Natives at Home. JOHN McDOUALL STUART. 15 Fourth himself. The beeswax seal, with its strings of red tape, is a particularly interesting souvenir — a huge brown penny it looks, measuring six inches across and nearly an inch deep." "What constitiite.s a State [or Province]? Men, high-minded men, with powers excelling; Men, who their duties know ; But know their rights, and knowing, dare maintain; Prevent the long-aimed blow. And crush the tyrant, Avhile they rend the chain : These constitute a State." — (S'(/' IT'. Jonrs. When the noble band of jjioneers landed. Colonel Light was delighted to see five English vessels in or near Holdfast Bay. They were the "Rapid," "Cygnet," "Africaine," "Tam o' Shanter," and the "Buffalo." But now (1907) 1,000 ships pass into the harbour every year, and of these there are 400 ocean steamers. A white marble statue near that of Colonel Light's in Victoria Square is John McDouall Stuart's, and very soon we will see, on the other side of the Square, a statue to that in- trepid man. Captain Sturt, who, besides many exploring trips on the continent, was the first white man to navigate the River Murray. After Captain Sturt's arduous work, and on his re- turn to Sydney, Captain Collet Barker was sent by the Govern- ment, with a ship and crew, to further explore the Murray mouth and adjacent land. The Captain was murdered by the hostile natives, who wished very much to kill Captain Sturt ; but he fortunately escaped that fate. Mr. Eyre, the noted explorer of later days, also had many narrow escapes of his life while exploring this great continent ; and the statuary in Victoria Square will not be complete without statues of Captain Matthew Flinders, Edward John Eyre, and Captain Collet Barker added to the list. John McDouall Stuart started three times to cross the continent from south to north. The first and second attempts had to be abandoned on account of water, scarcity of food, and the savage attacks of the natives. The Government had offered £2,000 to those who succeeded in this great undertaking ; and excitement was very high in Adelaide at McDouall Stuart's JOHN- MCDOIALL STIAKT. THE NORTHERN TERRITORY. 17 third start, and he was the hero of the hour when he and his lucky band of co-explorers left on what proved to be a lucky trip, and successfully achieved their herculean task. Forty-six years have now passed since the safe return of the gallant band. Popular enthusiasm on meeting them was unbounded. Fetes and banquets were given in their honour. By the discoveries of Stuart the overland telegraph was made possible, and the question of the settlement of the Northern Territory raised ; for when the party had nearly reached the north coast, it was suggested to the Imperial Govern- ment in England, by Sir Richard MacDonnell, then Governor here, that the Northern Territory should l)e joined to South Austra- lia. The Duke of Newcastle replied that, as an over- land route had not actually been opened, the question was premature. Sir Charles .Vicholson, the first Presi- dent of the Legislative ( 'ouncil of Queensland, who was then in England, re- commended the Secretary of State for the Colonies either to establish a new colony or to attach the Ter- ritory to Queensland. The Territory was offered to the latter colony, but South Australia protested ;, and in September, 1863, Governor Daly received a despatch Messrs. Thring and King. from the Duke of Newcastle, SUXXV SOUTH AUSTRALIA. placing- the Xi>itlu'i-ii Territory under the control of South Australia. Each year, on the anniversary of their return, the sur- vivors of the McDouall Stuart expedition are entertained at a social and suppei-. At the supper, instead of ordinary bread, damper is served to the guests. At the last meeting Mr. W. P. Auld. who is one of the survivors, had, amongst other in- teresting exhibits, a morsel of dried horse flesh, a remnant of what had been used in the expedition as food. ]Mr. Auld says that wiioii the party start- ed away McDouall Stuart said tliat he would plant tlie British tlag on tlie north coast in nine months" time; and he did so. on the shores of the Aiafura Sea. They stai'ted away from Adelaide on a Friday, and it was a stiange fact that most of their camps Averc pitched on a Fiiday ; airj as the whole party returned to Adelaide on a Friday, the old superstition that Friday is an unluckv dav was certainly not verified. The present survivors of the e.xpedition are ]\lessrs. Thring. King, Auld, Billi- att, Nash, and ^FcGorrery. J. McDouall Stuart died in England in June, 1869, on the same day as Captain Sturt, and it seems very fitting that the statues of both these great men should face each other in Victoria Square. One great thing the explorers were very fortunate in, and that was their gcneial good health: they seemed to be almost immune from sickness. ^Ir. Auld fells me that they very seldom had to open the medicine-chest for any of the party. They W. P. .\nkl. THE TERRITORY A SANATORIUM. 19 suffered many liardships, but retained what I think is the very greatest of earthly blessings — good liealth. No doubt the dry- ness of the air in the daytime and the cool nights, which enabled them to have good refreshing sleep — which is like fresh dew to a thirsty plant and gives new life and vigour to man and beast — had most to do with it. The Northern Territory is. despite the great heat there in summer, noted for its healthful- ness. A recent article in the Xortliern Territory T'ninx points to the fact that the death-rate is much lower there, in propor- tion to that of South Australia proper, and that the majoritv of diseases known in the south are practically unknown in the North. The local Bolus describes the Territory as the Sana- torium, and states that the malaria, of which we linear so much. is exceedingly mild. 'Be just, and fear not." — Shakespeare CHAPTER ir. Ed. J. Eyro— Early Days— South Australia's First Herd of Cattle — The First Wheat and Plough— Port :\lisery— The New City— The Horse-tram. Edward John Eyre, the explorer, was one of the most famous and expert bushmen that ever trod the Continent. He crossed the sterile expanses at the head of the Great Australian Bight, and was the first white man to find a way overland to Western Australia, his only white companion being his faith- ful servant Baxter, the other members of the party being three natives. Long stretches had to be tra- versed without water, and I do not think that pen could describe, but imagination can to some extent depict, the terrible hardships of this brave man. Poor Bax- ter was shot by one of the natives, who turned traitor, and who, with another of the three, decamped with most of the provisions and all the serviceable firearms. "With unsurpassed hardihood and resolution. Eyre and the one faithful native con- Latest photo of Edward John Evre, who die