SELECTION, FOOD VALUE, AND BASIC COOKING METHODS HILDA FAUST and VERA GREAVES MRAK < *< Y.t •'-i, L L E G E OF AGRIC U L T/U, AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION OF CALIFORNIA • I • Many a housewife relies on fish to sup- ply nutrients, variety, and economy her menu needs. You don't have to be a French chef to turn out delectable fish meals; anyone can master the few basic methods of cooking fish. A few simple sauce recipes and use of garnishes and seasoning can give eye and appetite ap- peal to the lowliest of fish, properly pre- pared. If you're familiar with the few simple facts about fish cookery contained in this circular, your family, as well as your budget, will welcome the more frequent appearance of fish on your table. The Authors Hilda Faust and Vera Greaves A/Irak are Extension Specialists in Nu- trition. FreSh a»4t frOZei* fisfi are available all year in most sections of California. Appetizingly prepared, fish gives variety and food value to the menu, and deserves a place on every table. NUTRITIVE VALUE Served in place of meat as the main course of the meal, fish supplies body- building protein and many of the vita- mins and minerals necessary to good nutrition. 1 . The protein in a serving of fish is simi- lar in amount and quality to that in a serving of meat or poultry. The essen- tial amino acids are present in the pro- portions necessary for efficient use by the body. An average serving of fish supplies from % to % the recom- mended daily allowance of protein. 2. Fish compares favorably with the mus- cle meat of animals in its content of B complex vitamins, particularly thia- mine, riboflavin, and niacin. 3. Some fish, especially those higher in fat, are excellent sources of vitamins A andD. 4. Most fish are excellent sources of io- dine, iron, and copper. They also fur- nish considerable quantities of calcium and phosphorus. BUYING FISH Fish is marketed in four main forms: dressed whole fish, drawn fish, fillets, and steaks. Dressed whole fish is fish that has been drawn and scaled, with fins, head, and tail removed when purchased. Among the varieties which may be found in this form are mackerel, rock cod, barracuda, sea bass, and snapper. Drawn fish is less common. Only the entrails are removed before purchase; head, tail, and scales are still on the fish. Mackerel and sandabs may usually be purchased in this form. Fish fillets are the two sides of flesh cut away from the bones of the fish. Fillets have practically no bones. Cod, mackerel, rockfish, and sea bass are among the va- rieties which may be bought as fillets. Fish steak is a cross section cut from the whole fish. It is usually % to 1 inch thick, but may be any thickness and size. Steaks of salmon, halibut, barracuda, tuna, and grayfish may usually be found on the market. Frozen fish is usually in the form of fillets or steaks, although it may be avail- able in any of the above forms. Purchasing Pointers l.For each person to be served allow % to % pound fish fillets or steaks, % to % pound of dressed fish, or % to % pound drawn fish. 2. Buy fish from stores where the fish is adequately refrigerated. It should be at refrigeration temperature or on a bed of crushed ice even when displayed for purchase. 3. Choose fresh fish that has firm flesh and no odor. If the head is on, the eyes should be bright, full, and bulging. The scales should cling to the skin. Gills should be reddish-pink. 4. Select fat fish, usually, for baking and broiling; lean fish, for simmering, steaming, or making chowders. Fish containing 5 per cent or more of fat are classified as fat. Such fish are barracuda, herring, mackerel, pom pano, salmon, shad, snapper, tuna turbot, and whole smelt. Lean fish, con taining about 2% per cent fat, or less are such fish as blackfish, cod, flounder halibut, lingcod, pickerel, sea bass white perch, and most white-fleshed fish. f3 PREPARING FISH 1 . Place the fish in the refrigerator as soon as possible after buying. Remove the store wrapping, and rewrap tightly in waxed or parchment paper. 2. Keep in the coldest part of the refriger- ator—in the freezing tray or tray com- partment if it is not to be served the day it is bought. 3. Remove the fish from the refrigerator just before cooking. 4. Clean dressed or drawn fish. To re- move scales, scrape from the tail toward the head with a blunt knife held almost vertical. Remove the blood line along the backbone if it is present. To remove fins, cut into the flesh at each side of the base of the fin, grasp the rear part of the fin, and give a sudden pull for- ward toward the head of the fish. Re- move the head and tail, unless you wish to leave them on for baking. 5. Bone dressed or drawn fish for baking, if desired, to make serving easier. Cut the flesh away from the backbone and rib bones, break the backbone at the end of the body cavity, and remove the backbone. 6. Save the fins and backbone, and cook in a small amount of water for sauce or soup. 7. Rinse the fish quickly with cold, salted water, if necessary. Do not leave the fish in the water. 8. Use frozen fish in the same manner as fresh. Start cooking before it is com- pletely thawed. To remove scales: scrape from the tail toward the head. [4] M, • ,: To remove fins: (top) cut into the flesh at each side of the base of the fins; (center) grasp the rear part of the fin and give a sudden pull forward; (bottom) trim sides. [5 COOKING FISH There are only a few basic methods of fish cookery. Variety is obtained mainly by using different fish sauces and season- ings. The success of fish cookery depends on mastering the basic methods. GENERAL RULES 1 . Cook the fish quickly and for as short a time as possible. The protein of fish sets quickly at a temperature much be- low the boiling point of water. Cooking too long or at a temperature higher than necessary ruins the texture and flavor of the fish. 2. Save any juices formed, or any liquid the fish is cooked in, to use in sauce to serve with the fish, or to use in soup. These liquids have much of the flavor and some nutritive value. Cook the bones of boned fish and use the liquid for sauces or soups. 3. Salt the fish before cooking to bring out the fine flavor. 4. Test with a fork. Fish is done when it is tender and separates easily. 5. Serve fish on a heated platter with a sauce or with garnishes of lemon wedges, paprika, or parsley. SIMMERING AND STEAMING 1 . Use fish fillets, steaks, or small dressed fish. 2. Wipe with a damp cloth. 3. Salt the fish, using about % teaspoon salt for each pound. 4. Cook the fish in one of these ways : Steaming Place the fish in a colander or in a metal basket with legs. Place over boiling water, cover with a tight lid, and steam. -, Salt fish before cooking f6] Cooking in Parchment or Aluminum Foil Place the fish in a piece of moistened parchment or in aluminum foil. Make the parchment paper into a bag and tie. Fold the aluminum foil to make it tight. Lower into boiling water, reduce heat, and simmer. Simmering or Poaching Place the fish in a wire basket or cheese- cloth bag. Lower into a small amount of boiling water or into Court Bouillon. Add % to 1 cup of cold water and simmer. Court Bouillon 2 quarts water 2 tablespoons salt % cup vinegar or lemon juice 1 teaspoon peppercorns *4 teaspoon dried thyme 3 bay leaves 6 cloves 2 sliced carrots 2 sliced onions 4 branches celery, cut up 6 sprigs parsley Simmer 30 to 45 minutes before adding the fish. The herbs and spices may be tied in a cloth and removed when the fish is added. Much of the delicate flavor of the fish is left in the Court Bouillon, which can be used in soups or sauces. Cook until done: Fillets not more than 10 minutes per pound 1-inch steaks. . . . 10 minutes per pound 2-inch steaks .... 15 minutes per pound Fish in parchment or aluminum foil 15 to 20 minutes per pound , Garnish and serve on heated platter with a sauce. Cooking fish in parchment paper Below: Steaming fish [7] m Hot-oven Baked Fish BROILING AND FRYING 1 . Use fish fillets, steaks, or small flat dressed fish. 2. Wipe the fish with a damp cloth. 3. Salt on both sides. 4. Brush with melted fat, unless the fish is a fat variety, Or dip in milk or in a mixture of 1 egg and % cup of milk, and then into a mixture of % cup flour and % cup cracker meal. 5. Broil or fry. Broiling Put the fish on an oiled broiler rack, skin side down. Place in a broiler preheated at 350° to 375° F. Cook 15 to 20 min- utes. Turn carefully when the fish is almost done. Frying Heat a frying pan containing a small amount of butter or margarine. Place the fish in the pan carefully. Fry until a golden brown. Turn and brown the other side. 6. Serve on a heated platter with lemon wedges or a sauce. BAKING Hot-oven Baked Fish 1 . Use fillets, steaks, or small dressed fish. 2. Line up across your kitchen table, from left to right : Pieces of fish ready to dip. A flat dish containing milk. Add 1 tablespoon of salt to each cup of milk used. A pan of finely sifted bread crumbs. An oiled baking dish or pan lined with aluminum foil or oiled parchment paper. If possible, use a dish from which the fish may be served at the table. A cup containing oil or melted butter or margarine. Use a tablespoon of fat to a pound of fish. 3. Dip the fish in the milk and bread crumbs, working from left to right. 4. Add the oil or melted fat to the top of the fish after it is in the pan. 5. Bake about 10 minutes in a very hot oven, 500° to 550° F. Suggested variations: Pour a sauce over the fish just before baking, such as tomato sauce (see page 11), or a can of mushroom soup mixed with % cup hot water and 2 tablespoons lemon juice, Or place a well-seasoned stuffing on top of the fish before baking. Or add a heated sauce when serving. [3 Stuffed Baked Fish 1 . Use a 4- to 5-pound dressed or drawn fish. 2. Prepare the fish. Leave the head and tail on if you wish. Remove the fins (p. 5) and bone for easier serving if de- sired (p. 4). 3. Salt the inner cavity of the fish. 4. Stuff the cavity loosely with the fish stuffing given below, or with any favorite stuffing. If you wish, make extra stuffing and bake in a separate baking dish. 5. Draw the cut portions together, both back and under side, by use of skewers or heavy toothpicks; lace with string. 6. Place the belly side down on a baking dish or on a rack in the baking pan. Twist the fish into an S or any desired shape to fit the dish. 7. Put strips of bacon across the back of lean fish. 8. Bake in a preheated oven at 400° F, 10 minutes per pound for a fish up to 4 pounds in weight. Add 5 minutes for each additional pound. 9. Garnish and serve on heated platter. Fish Stuffing 2 cups fresh bread, cut into small pieces or crumbled with a fork % cup butter, margarine, or bacon drippings 1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley % teaspoon finely chopped capers 1 teaspoon finely chopped onion 1 tablespoon finely chopped cel- ery and celery leaves Melt the fat, add the parsley, onion, and celery, and cook for a few minutes. Then add capers and any herbs and seasonings desired. Pour over the bread crumbs and toss lightly. Salt and pepper to taste. Stuffed baked fish: (top) remove the backbone; (center) draw the cut portions together by use of skewers or toothpicks, stuff and lace with string; (bottom) bake in any desired shape. This photograph shows a baking dish which can be sent to the table. Ippiiilllii k / ? Suggested variations for stuffing: Add % teaspoon each of thyme, marjo- ram, and sweet basil, Or add 2 tablespoons chopped broiled bacon or mushrooms, or 1 teaspoon chopped sweet gherkins. Or omit capers and add any of the above ingredients, Or use 1 cup cracker crumbs and 3 table- spoons fish broth in place of part or all of the bread crumbs. Fish Rolls (Turbans) 1 . Use fillets. Season with salt and pepper. 2. Brush lightly with lemon juice. Add a few bread crumbs if desired. 3. Roll the fillets and then roll a strip of bacon around each fillet. Skewer with a toothpick. If the fillets are large, cut them in two lengthwise before rolling. 4. Place on an oiled rack or in an oiled pan. 5. Bake in a moderate oven at 300° F for about 20 minutes. 6. Remove toothpicks. Garnish, and serve on hot platter. Where Wine Is Used: For those wish- ing to use wine in fish cookery, for flavor variations, white or red table wine, or sherry may be used in some methods of fish cookery. For example, in baking a fish of 3 or 4 pounds, baste the fish twice with 1 or 2 tablespoons of wine. To the mushroom sauce, page 8, or to the aromatic sauce, page 11, add 2 or 3 tablespoons of wine. SAUCES A flavorful sauce adds zest and variety to any fish. Some sauces are cooked with the fish; others are heated and poured over the fish just before serving, or are served separately at the table. ANCHOVY SAUCE Good with simmered and steamed fish 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon flour 1 cup milk y<2, teaspoon anchovy paste or 2 or 3 fil- lets of anchovy, well washed and finely chopped 1 . Make cream sauce by melting butter, blending flour, and gradually stirring in the scalded milk. 2. Simmer 3 or 4 minutes, remove from heat, season with salt and pepper, and add the anchovy paste or fillets. DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE Often served with steamed or poached fish 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup hot water % teaspoon salt % teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons butter 1 . Melt the butter, add the flour, and cook until the mixture bubbles. 2. Add the hot water and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens. 3. Add the seasonings. 4. Beat in the remainder of the butter. Suggested variations: Egg sauce— add one hard-cooked egg cut in slices. Mustard Pickle sauce— add 2 table- spoons of chopped mustard pickles. Caper sauce— add % CU P of capers. [10] SOUR SAUCE Excellent with simmered and steamed fish V2 teaspoon mustard (may omit) 1 teaspoon sugar % teaspoon salt few grains of paprika 1 egg or 2 yolks 1 to 2 tablespoons butter or margarine % cup cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice or vinegar (more if needed) 1 . Cook the seasonings, cream, egg, and butter in a double boiler, being careful not to curdle. 2. Cool partly, and add the vinegar. Three tablespoons butter combined with 3 tablespoons flour may be used with 1 cup milk and ^2 CU P cream in place of the proportions of butter and cream given above. AROMATIC SAUCE Good with fried or broiled fish, or served hot over baked fish 1 cup fish stock few thyme leaves small pinch each of sweet basil and savory marjoram 1 teaspoon finely chopped chives few grains nutmeg 3 peppercorns 1 teaspoon butter 1 teaspoon flour % to 1 tablespoon lemon juice few leaves tarragon, powdered 1 . Bring the fish stock to the boiling point and add the herbs, chives, nutmeg and peppercorns. Salt and pepper to taste. 2. Set the pan at the back of the stove and blend the butter and flour. 3. Stir the flavored broth into flour mix- ture. Remove the peppercorns. 4. Boil the sauce for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. 5. Remove from the fire and add lemon juice and tarragon. TARTARE SAUCE Excellent with fried or broiled fish 1 cup mayonnaise 3 tablespoons each of finely chopped sweet or sour pickles and olives 1 tablespoon or more chopped parsley 1 . Mix ingredients, adding salt and pep- per to taste. One tablespoon finely chopped minced onion and one tablespoon minced capers may also be added. TOMATO SAUCE Good with any type of fish 2 strips of bacon 1 small chopped carrot 1 small chopped onion 1 small stalk celery, chopped sprig of parsley, chopped 1 can tomato hot sauce plus 1 cup water, or 2 cups stewed or canned tomatoes 1 . Fry bacon until crisp ; remove from pan. 2. Cook the carrot, onion, and celery a few minutes in the bacon fat, but do not brown. 3. Add parsley, the chopped crisp bacon, and the tomatoes or tomato sauce. 4. Simmer to blend the flavor. Salt and pepper to taste. Fish may be cooked in this sauce, or the sauce may be served over the fish. CUCUMBER SAUCE % cup cucumber, chopped fine % teaspoon salt % teaspoon parsley, minced % teaspoon onion, minced 1 tablespoon vinegar % cup whipping cream 1 . Mix the first five ingredients and drain for % hour. 2. Whip the cream (being careful not to overwhip) and carefully fold into the mixture. [in LEMON BUTTER Good with fried or broiled fish % cup butter 1 tablespoon lemon juice Cream the butter and add the lemon juice slowly. HOLLANDAISE SAUCE Good with steamed and simmered fish 2 egg yolks 1 tablespoon white vinegar or lemon juice % pound piece or % cup butter, divided into thirds Ys teaspoon salt dash of cayenne, if desired % cup, or less, boiling water (may omit) 1 . Place in a small saucepan, which may be set in another pan of hot water, the 2 unbeaten egg yolks, % of the butter, and the vinegar or lemon juice. Stir until these are well blended. 2. Place the pan over hot water, not boil- ing, and stir steadily until the butter melts and the mixture thickens. Do not let the water in the other pan boil, and lift the saucepan from the water to pre- vent overcooking of the yolks while adding another % of the butter. 3. Stir steadily, and, as the butter melts, add the final % of the butter. Add the boiling water and cook carefully for about one minute. Then add the salt and a shake of paprika. Water may be omitted. 4. Beat until the sauce is smooth and glossy. Keep it warm, but do not cook any more. If the sauce separates, put about % teaspoon water into a clean bowl or pan. Add 1 teaspoon of the curdled mixture, avoiding the oily top layer. Stir. Add more of the separated mixture. Beat and continue to add and combine. If the boil- ing water has not yet been added, it may be added after the mixture is re-combined. MOCK HOLLANDAISE SAUCE 3 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons flour % teaspoon lemon juice 2 eggs 1 cup milk 1 teaspoon salt 1 . Prepare a white sauce by melting but- ter, blending flour, and adding milk and salt. 2. Pour over the beaten eggs and stir until mixture thickens. 3. Add the lemon juice before serving. 25m-12,'48(B19)