(MM
 
 v 
 
 V
 
 UCSB LIBRARY
 
 A OU IDE 
 
 to 
 
 HEIDELBEKG 
 
 and 
 
 ITS ENVIRONS. 
 
 With 12 views and 2 Plans of the town and the enviroua. 
 
 Heidelberg. 
 
 Ernst jVXohr. 
 
 1871.
 
 Index. 
 
 Seite 
 
 Academical Institutions and Collections 34 
 
 Anlage, the new 57 
 
 Baths and swimming baths 37 
 
 Bridge 3! 
 
 Cafes 39 
 
 Castle, its history and description 40 
 
 Cemetery, the new 57 
 
 Confectioners and Restaurants 39 
 
 Churches 28 
 
 Dilsberg 7g 
 
 Dossenheim £9 
 
 Engelswiese (35 
 
 Friedrichfeld 82 
 
 Gates 31 
 
 Graimberg's Collections 45 
 
 Handschuchsheim g3 
 
 Harmonie og 
 
 Heidelberg, Positions, details of locality 4 
 
 „ history and description of the town 5 
 
 Heidenloch gg 
 
 Heiligeberg 6u 
 
 Hirschgasse 64. 
 
 Hotels 39 
 
 Kanzel 58 
 
 Kirchheim , gO 
 
 Konig- or Kaiserstuhl 60 
 
 Ladenburg 71 
 
 Loan-Office 37 
 
 Mannheim .82 
 
 Molkenkur 55
 
 IV Index. 
 
 Museum 37 
 
 Neckargemiind 74 
 
 Neckarsteinach , 74 
 
 Neuenheim 02 
 
 Orphanage 37 
 
 Philosophenweg 64 
 
 Riesenstein 58 
 
 Ritter, hotel 26 
 
 Rohrbach • 59 
 
 Saviugs-Bank 37 
 
 Schbnau 77 
 
 Schools 37 
 
 Schwetzingen 78 
 
 Speyerer- or Neuhof -59 
 
 Squares and public buildings 26 
 
 Stift Neuburg 64 
 
 Stiftsmiihle 65 
 
 Theatre 37 
 
 Town Hall 26 
 
 Trutzkaiser 58 
 
 University 31 
 
 University library 34 
 
 Waterfall 58 
 
 Weinheim 72 
 
 Wolfsbrunnen 61 
 
 Wolfsschlucht 59 
 
 Ziegelhausen • 65
 
 Introduction. 
 
 Heidelberg, although according to size and the num- 
 ber of its inhabitants, a place of only middle rank among 
 German towns, enjoys nevertheless, a celebrity far excee- 
 ding that of many places greater in extent and population. 
 
 This is mainly owing to its position, so rich in natural 
 beauties of the most diversified character, and such as are 
 but rarely found united in the same spot. In close proxi- 
 mity to the town, are charming valleys containing meadows 
 traversed by clear running streams and bordered by dense 
 woods ; lofty hills crowned with forests intersected by shady 
 paths and whose summits and slopes afford the most mag- 
 nificent prospects ; a fertile and highly-cultivated plain cros- 
 sed by numerous highroads, planted on each side with shady 
 fruit-trees; and lastly the Neckar winding through the val- 
 ley and affording scenery which partakes alternately of the 
 soft, the sublime and the beautiful, until, issuing here from 
 the valley in a broad stream, it flows away across the plain 
 and finally joins the Rhine at a short distance below. 
 
 Not less remarkable is Heidelberg on account of its 
 history. The powerful race of the Counts Palatine and of 
 the Electors of the Rhine had their residence here through- 
 out six centuries , continuing to exercise considerable in- 
 fluence both by their counsel and action, upon every great 
 and important event by which the times in which they 
 lived were characterized. 
 
 1
 
 2 Introduction, 
 
 Everywhere do the memorials of the past address the 
 traveller who wanders about the outskirts of Heidelberg — 
 the stately castle, which even in ruins proclaims the an- 
 cient splendour of the imperial and electoral residence; rui- 
 ned convents together with Roman remains lying hidden 
 at the summit of some lofty hill — the mutilated strong- 
 holds of ancient knights, Roman roads stretching over hill 
 and dale, all plainly indicating that from the earliest times, 
 men of enterprise and in the enjoyment of weath and po- 
 wer, had fixed upon this spot for their abode. 
 
 The object of this little work is to serve as a guide 
 to the finest and most interesting spots in the vicinity, and 
 to relate in a brief sketch the historical memorabilia of the 
 town and its surroundings. Those who wish to go more 
 thoroughly into the subject should consult the following 
 works, which are worthy of mention as being excellently 
 written and at the same time as offering a strictly vera- 
 cious delineation of a highly interesting subject: they may 
 all be obtained in Heidelberg at the booksellers' whose 
 names are appended below. 
 
 »History of the Palatinate of the Rhine « with Reference 
 
 to its Political, Ecclesiastical, and Literary Relations, 
 
 by Dr. L. Hausser. (2 vols.) J. G. B. Mohr. 
 
 ^Heidelberg; its Castle, and its Counts Palatine «, an 
 
 Historical Poem, by Dr. Emil Otto (J. H. Geiger). 
 
 »The Stranger's Guide to Heidelberg and its Environs «, 
 
 by K. G. von Leonhard. (Julius Groos.) 
 »The Stranger's Guide through the Ruins of Heidelberg- 
 Castles by Prof. Dr. A. Leger. (Fifth Edition. Pub. 
 by R. von Grainberg.) 
 The publisher of the last-mentioned work: von Graim- 
 berg, a French gentleman, many years resident in Heidel- 
 berg, has without doubt rendered a material service and 
 one which is here universally acknowledged, having been
 
 Introduction, 3 
 
 one of the first, who by his drawings (since published in 
 copper-plate) drew attention to the beauty of the Castle, 
 and contributed essentially to its becoming known to stran- 
 gers. The large upper portion of the Castle Church has 
 been placed by the Grand ducal government at the dispo- 
 sal of Mr. von Graimberg, for the exhibition of his collec- 
 tion; daily on view. 
 
 During the last ten years, much has been done to- 
 wards beautifying the town and suburbs of Heidelberg, 
 both by the construction of new roads, as well as by ren- 
 dering the numerous beautiful points easier of access, These 
 improvements have partly been carried out by the town 
 council, partly by private individuals, and some of the in- 
 habitants have formed themselves into a society called the 
 Schlossverein, which has for its object the preservation 
 of the Castle, and the further improving and adorning of 
 the town and its environs. The members contribute regu- 
 larly towards the laying out of public gardens, walks, etc. 
 in conformity with the aim of the society. We should like 
 to see all those inhabitants who possess the means take 
 an interest in the undertaking, and by supporting the so. 
 ciety, promote a scheme, in the benefits of which, all alike 
 partake.
 
 Position, General Details of Locality, &c, 
 
 Heidelberg is situated in 49° 24' N. lat. and 8° 58' 
 E. long, at a height of 294 feet above the sea-level. It 
 lies just at the opening of the Neckar valley, which com- 
 mences at Heilbronn, some 36 miles higher up the river. 
 The town measures 2760 paces in length, reckoning from 
 the Karlsthor to the Mannheimer Thorplatz, and has 38 
 streets and alleys. According to the census of 1861, the 
 number of inhabitants was 16,288, of whom 9725 were 
 Protestants, 6130 Catholics, and 386 Jews. Owing to its 
 position on the left bank of the Neckar, bounded on the 
 right by that river, and on the left by the Kaiserstuhl and 
 Geisberg ; hemmed in between river and mountain, the length 
 of the town is greatly disproportionate to its breadth, ex- 
 tending from the upper or Karlsthor on the east, and gradu- 
 ally widening till it attains its greatest breadth at the 
 Ludwigs Platz, near the centre. It then continues along the 
 foot of the Geisberg to the end of the valley, and thence 
 with its handsome railway-station, spacious factory buil- 
 dings, and private houses, into the fertile smiling plain beyond. 
 Owing to the rapid current of the Neckar, the position of 
 the town at the opening of the valley, and the frequent 
 prevalence of a fresh easterly wind, there is a constant 
 current of pure air, which does much to prevent the for- 
 mation and accumulation of noxious vapours, or miasma. 
 Epidemic diseases are in consequence exceedingly rare, 
 and when from some unavoidable cause they do break out, 
 they are generally modified in intensity, and quickly pass 
 away. For the same reason, the position of the town of- 
 ten exposes it to sudden changes of temperature, so that 
 one runs great risk of taking a chill, if tempted by the 
 heat of a summer's day, also to pass the evening in the 
 open air when but lightly clad. Numerous springs, which
 
 History of the town. 5 
 
 have their source in the neighbouring hills furnish the town 
 with an abundant supply of excellent water ; rain and river 
 water being only used for bathing or washing. The Neckar, 
 which lias a rapid and winding course, hemmed in between 
 rocky banks, averages from 4 to 8 feet in depth. There 
 is good fishing ; eel , barbel , jack , carp , etc. The hills 
 about Heidelberg are of granite and sandstone formation : 
 the town itself partly resting on diluvial deposits , sand 
 and gravel beds. On the lower part of the hills, the vine 
 thrives, higher up are well-kept woods, also many chestnut 
 plantations. In the country about H. agriculture is in a 
 very flourishing state : much tobacco is raised, and the cul- 
 tivation of the vine and fruit is carried on to a conside- 
 rable extent. The best vineyards are on the southern slope 
 of the Gaisberg, and on the Heilgenberg. opposite the bridge. 
 
 History of the Town. 
 
 We may suppose that the advantageous position of 
 the town , just at the opening of the valley had already 
 in pre-historic times attracted colonists hither. Branches 
 of the ancient Celts, an Asiatic tribe, had under their lea- 
 der Sigevesus penetrated from Northern Italy into the coun- 
 tries bordering the Rhine , where they gradually settled. 
 These were, however, partly expelled, partly subjugated 
 by the invading Germanic tribes : among the latter, that 
 of the Nemeter is said to have occupied the country about 
 the Rhine and Neckar (B. G. 50). 
 
 After the victories of their generals Drusus and Tibe- 
 rius, the Romans spread themselves over the countries 
 near the Rhine, building castles for the protection of their 
 frontier. The task of defending these was entrusted to the 
 Gauls . who were allowed to till the land, on payment of 
 tithes. It was during the period of Roman colonization 
 (100 — 400 A. D.) that agriculture and the arts received 
 their first impulse here. The mountains lying towards the 
 great plain of the Rhine were crowned by castles: forti- 
 fied towns were built, temples and baths erected, nume- 
 rous remains of which have been dug up at Ladenburg, 
 Schriesheim and Neunheim and on the so-called Heiligen- 
 berg (Holy Mountain) , and even in the present day, it is
 
 6 History of the town. 
 
 not unusual for the peasant, in cultivating his field, to turn 
 up ancient Roman coins etc. A military road extended 
 along the Bergstrasse, and where the Neckar issues from 
 the valley, Roman castles once stood. At the beginning 
 of the third century the Romans were compelled to retire 
 before the advancing Alemanni, till the supremacy of the 
 latter was terminated by the victory gained by the Franks 
 under their king Ghlodwig, at Ziilpich, A. D. 493. 
 
 The Franks, mingled with the remnants of the Roman, 
 Gallic, and Alemannic populations became the inhabitants 
 of the country. They divided it into provinces, the most 
 important place being Ladenburg: the whole forming part 
 of Austrasia or East Franconia. Charlemagne, the power- 
 ful ruler of the vast empire of the Franks , created the 
 dignity of Counts Palatine, whose office was at first limi- 
 ted to that of steward and judge, and that only at the im- 
 perial court, but who, under succeding sovereigns, acted as 
 viceroys in the provinces. In course of time, the dignity 
 of Count Palatine assumed a more independent and abso- 
 lute character. The most influential as well as the most 
 formidable were the Electors Palatine of the Rhine. In the 
 year 1155 the emperor, Frederick I bestowed the County 
 Palatine on his brother C o n r a d v o n H o h e n s t a u f e n , who 
 resided alternately in his castle of Staleck at Bacharach, 
 and in that of the Jettenbiihel, near Heidelberg (at pres- 
 sent known by the name of the Old Castle, or Molkenkur) ; 
 exercising an absolute sway over the surrounding country. 
 In the valley at the foot of this Castle, and on the site of 
 the pressent Museum, was standing in the eleventh cen- 
 tury a chapel and cells, built by Augustine friars the whole 
 dedicated to »The Holy Virgin in the Wilderness «. 
 
 Already at an early date, enterprising and independent 
 colonists had settled in this valley. The river, navigable 
 and well-stocked with fish; the dense woods with which 
 the hills were covered, abounding in game; the rich gra- 
 zing-meadows in the valleys and on the plain; together 
 with the tillage of the soil, amply furnished them with the 
 necessaries of life. Gradually a village arose. Conrad, the 
 first Elector Palatine having taken up his residence in the 
 castle above, the place was enlarged, and many new and 
 larger buildings were added; the whole endowed with va-
 
 History of the town. 7 
 
 rious rights and privileges, surrounded with a wall and 
 fortifications, and erected into a town. Heidelberg there- 
 fore owes its early prosperity and extension to the Elector 
 Conrad and from his time it began to be numbered among 
 German towns. Conrad died at the Castle 1195, and was 
 interred in the Convent of Schonau. His only daughter 
 Agnes, distinguished for her wealth and beauty, was uni- 
 ted to duke Henry of Brunswick, son of Henry the Lion: 
 he assumed the government of the Palatinate 1195, and 
 it was while residing at Heidelberg 1211, that he resigned 
 in favour of his eldest son, who however expired 1214, 
 leaving no issue. His eldest sister, Irmengard was wedded 
 to Prince Hermann ot Baden. 
 
 Upon the death of Henry, 1214, the emperor Frede- 
 rick II bestowed the Palatinate on his zealous adherent, 
 Ludwig von Bayern, of the House of Wittelsbach, and 
 in 1224 the Bishop of Worms gave the new Elector the 
 town and castle of Heidelberg to be held in fee. In 1220 we 
 find the emperor Frederick II residing at Heidelberg with 
 his court, on which occasion the town wore an air of 
 magnificence and splendour, to which it had hitherto been 
 a stranger. Otto the Illustrious, son of Ludwig I, go- 
 verned from 1228 to 1253. The Emperor Frederic's son, 
 King Henry VII, was consigned a prisoner to his keeping, 
 and was by him detained in captivity in the old Castle. 
 
 Otto's daughter Elisabeth was the mother of Conradin, 
 the last of the Hohenstanfen. Otto died 1253 and was 
 succeeded by his son Ludwig 1253—1294. During his 
 time, Heidelberg joined the alliance of the Rhenish towns, 
 which had, at the advice of Rathbodos a citizen of Mentz, 
 been formed for mutual defence during that stormy period 
 when Germany was without an emperor. The year 1271 
 was a disastrous one for Heidelberg. The Neckar, swollen 
 to a fearful height, overflowed its banks, devastating alike 
 town and country, and in the same year a conflagration 
 broke out, which, with the exception of. the Chapel to the 
 Holy Virgin, lest scarcely a building untouched, and which 
 laid nearly the whole of the town in ruins. The old Castle 
 itself fell a victim to the flames and the electoral residence 
 was temporarily transferred to Wiesloch. In 1288 the town 
 was again laid waste by fire, whereupon the Elector gran-
 
 8 History of the town. 
 
 ted a remission of all taxes till the inhabitants should have 
 had time to recover from their losses. The frequency with 
 which fires broke out, and the extent to which they spread 
 is easily explained; most of the citizens' houses being that- 
 ched with straw, built of wood, one story high: the floor 
 was the bare earth beaten hard, and covered with straw. 
 The same apartment served for both kitchen and sitting- 
 room and the frugal inmates sought warmth at the fire 
 where their meals were cooked, being as yet in blissful 
 ignorance of such things as luxuriant sofas, snug easy- 
 chairs, porcelain stoves, and such like refinements. The 
 smoke found its way through holes in the roof. In the 
 absence of means to combat the flames such houses were 
 necessarily burnt down by hundreds and with incredible 
 rapidity, but then they were almost as quickly replaced 
 by others. 
 
 Ludwig was succeeded by his son, Rudolph I, 1294— 
 1319. He became involved in a disastrous war with the 
 emperor Albert I, who wished to redeem for the crown 
 the imperial prerogatives, particularly that called the Rhine 
 Toll, which had been pledged by his predecessors. In July 
 1301, Heidelberg was stormed by the Imperialists, and the 
 surrounding country laid waste. They and the French 
 auxiliaries wintered here, completely draining the land of 
 its resources. These scenes were repeated 1314, during 
 Rudolph's quarrel with his brother, the emperor Ludwig, 
 who drove him from his dominions. Rudolph is said to 
 have died a fugitive in England, or as some say, in Austria. 
 
 The emperor Ludwig retained possession of the Pala- 
 tinate until 1329, when by the Treaty of Pavia he made 
 it over to his nephews, the Counts Palatine Rudolph and 
 R u p r e c h t with their infant nephew R u p r e c h t. R u d o 1 p h II 
 and Ruprecht I governed jointly till 1328, when pursuant 
 to a treaty, the greater portion of the Palatinate remained 
 in the hands of Rudolph II. In 1348, an epidemic raged 
 throughout Southern Europe, owing, as the superstitious 
 affirmed, to the Jews having poisoned the wells. A cruel 
 persecution followed, and many were murdered, burnt or 
 tortured to death. In Germany, 12000 are said to have 
 thus perished. The Elector Ruprecht I afforded these in- 
 nocent victims an asylum in Heidelberg, where they found
 
 History of the town. 9 
 
 shelter and protection against their persecutors. Rudolph 
 died 1353, and Ruprecht I continued to govern till 1390. 
 
 The emperors Charles and Wensel were here on a 
 visit to the Elector; the former in 1378, the latter in 1381. 
 In 1386, Ruprecht I founded the University of Heidelherg, 
 whereby he has rendered his name immortal. He was one 
 of the noblest and wisest princes of his time. His death 
 took place in his eighty-first year at Neustadt , where he 
 also lies buried. His nephew Ruprecht II reigned from 
 1391 to 1398. He again expelled the Jews and made a 
 gift of their houses and gardens to the University, for the 
 professors to reside in. With a view of enlarging and beau- 
 tifying the town, he ordered the inhabitants of the ancient 
 village ofRergheim, which lay in the plain near the Neckar, 
 at about a mile and a half from Heidelberg, to demolish 
 their houses, and to build close to the town, granting them 
 the necessary materials, and bestowing upon them nume- 
 rous privileges : the new suburb was assigned to the mu- 
 nicipality of St. Peter, and was surrounded by a wall. 
 
 Thus did the present suburb arise; the extreme houses 
 of which, again occupy the site of the ancient Bergheim, 
 after a lapse of 560 years. Rupert II, 1398—1410. This 
 prince was in the year 1400 chosen Emperor of the Ro- 
 mans in the place of the deposed Wenzel, and was crow- 
 ned at Rheims. He enlarged and embellished the Church 
 of the Holy Ghost (Heiliggeistkirche), raised it to the dig- 
 nity of a collegiate church, and endowed it with revenues. 
 On the occasion of his return from Italy, where the Pope 
 had refused his consent to his coronation, a swarm of the 
 street-boys of Heidelberg, as he with his train entered the 
 town, ran beside them, singing ballads, in which his fruit- 
 less journey was ridiculed. Some of his attendants were 
 about to drive off the noisy crowd with threats and blows, 
 but were restrained by the emperor, who said: » Strike not 
 those singing children, but let us thank God for having 
 enabled us to return safe and sound«. It was not until 
 the following year, that his election to the imperial dignity 
 was confirmed by the Pope. On the 12 th. July 1406, a 
 dispute arose between the students and some servants of 
 the court, which ended in a violent brawl. The whole 
 town was in an uproar and the citizens siding with the
 
 10 History of the town. 
 
 court menials, the students were compelled to seek refuge 
 in the house of Professor Johann von Frankfort, in the 
 Burgweg. The house was stormed by the infuriated mob, 
 and such of the students as attempted to escape by leaping 
 out of the windows, were caught on the spears of the as- 
 sailants below. At lenghth a herald, who had been des- 
 patched by the Emperor, arrived on the spot, and by threa- 
 tening the rioters with severe punishment, succeeded in 
 restoring tranquility. Rupert III died 1410, having reigned 
 12 years as Elector, and 10 as Emperor. 
 
 His son and successor Ludwig III, surnamed The 
 Bearded, reigned from 1410 to 1436. Having by his acti- 
 vity and energy, secured the election of Sigismund of Hun- 
 gary to the imperial crown, the latter, on his way to his 
 coronation, paid him a visit at Heidelberg. He was met 
 by the inhabitants at the St. Peters's Gate and conducted 
 in solemn procession to the Church of the Holy Ghost, 
 and having heard divine service, went in state to the Castle, 
 where he remained a fortnigt as guest. On the 20th. Oc- 
 tober of the same year, he again visited Heidelberg, and 
 on his departure, was escorted by the Elector with a body 
 of 200 knights, who attended him as far as Aix-la-Chapelle. 
 
 In 1415, The Council of Constance consigned the de- 
 posed Pope, John XXIII, a prisoner to the guardianship 
 of the Elector Ludwig, who caused him to be confined in 
 Heidelberg Castle. 
 
 Ludwig died 1436. His son Ludwig IV reigned from 
 1437 to 1449, his uncle the Count Palatine Otto, acting 
 as his guardian- He espoused the rich and lovely Margaret, 
 princess of Savoy. In 1445 she made her entry into Hei- 
 delberg, when the nuptials were celebrated with great 
 pomp. Ludwig devoted the short period of his government 
 to the maintenance of peace and to reconciliation with 
 foreign powers and in efforts at promoting the internal 
 welfare of his dominions — a line of policy, that procured 
 for him the appellation of »The Gentle « among his con- 
 temporaries. 
 
 In 1440, the first band of gipsies, under their leader 
 Zundel, crossed over from the left bank of the Rhint into 
 the country about Heidelberg, roving about the woods and 
 villages, where they subsisted by begging, fortune-telling,
 
 History of the town. 11 
 
 or by robbery. They were partly expelled; to the remain- 
 der was assigned a fixed place of abode: descendants of 
 the latter are to be found, even in the ^present day. At 
 the death of Ludwig, 1449, his son Philip was but a year 
 old, his uncle Ludwig was therefore appointed guardian, 
 and took the title of Friedrich I., surnamed the Vic- 
 torious, 1492—1498. Frederick got rid of his guardian- 
 ship by causing the assembly of the nobles of the Palati- 
 nate (who had been summoned to meet at Heidelberg) to 
 invest him with the electoral dignity, and adopted the 
 youthful Philip as his son. 
 
 Frederick was a warlike prince. The Counts of Liitzel- 
 stein having sought means to avoid paying him homage, 
 he made war on them with an army of 6000 men, reduced 
 their castles and strongholds, and annexed their dominions 
 to the Palatinate. The town of Amberg in the Upper-Pfalz, 
 having refused to acknowledge him, he put himself at the 
 head of 1900 men, marched against it, and having taken it 
 by suprise, caused five of the leaders to be executed within 
 the town. In 1445, after a desolating and sanguinary struggle, 
 he compelled his cousin, palsgrave Ludwig von Veldenz, 
 to do homage as his vassal. His war with the Archbisho- 
 pric of Mayence, touching the restoration of certain lands ; 
 that with Wurtemberg concerning arrears of revenue; and 
 with Veldenz, who had again disputed his supremacy; all 
 terminated advantageously for Frederick by the bloody battle 
 of Pfedersheim, July 14th. 1460, on which occasion he 
 put himself at the head of the cavalry, and uttering the 
 words »Elector to-day or' never«, dashed into the thick 
 of the battle, and bore off the victory. Seven counts, and 
 many nobles, were brought by him captives to Heidelberg. 
 On June 8th. 1461 be marched out of Heidelberg at the 
 head of an army of 10,000 men, and laid siege to Meis- 
 senheim, where he again reduced the restless Ludwig von 
 Veldenz to submission. Having, in 1462, espoused the cause 
 of the deposed Bishop Diether of Mayence, he was decla- 
 red an outlaw. In reply, he caused a fort to be built on 
 the Gaisberg, overlooking Heidelberg, to which he gave the 
 name of Trutzkaiser (Defiance to the Emperor). In the 
 battle of Seckenheim, 30 June 1462, he inflicted a signal 
 defeat on those princes who had taken the field for the
 
 12 History of the town. 
 
 purpose of carrying into execution the proclamation sent 
 out against him; took five of them prisoners, and confined 
 them in Heidelherg castle, till March 1463. This victory 
 was long treasured up in the ballads of the country folk. 
 A simple monument was erected on the field of battle, and 
 the village subsequently built on the adjacent steep, received 
 the name of Friedrichsfeld (now a railway station between 
 Heidelberg and Mannheim). 
 
 Frederick refused to allow the captive princes bread 
 at their meals, and upon their demanding the reason, sternly 
 replied; »Ye have trampled my crops, and burned my fields: 
 I can therefore give ye no bread «. The war carried on 
 against Frederick by Ludwig von Veldenz, as captain of 
 the Imperial forces, and which had originated from the 
 interference of the Elector in affairs relating to the Abbey 
 of Weissenberg; terminated again favourably for Frederick, 
 after the latter had made himself master of many towns 
 and castles belonging to the enemy. Under the govern- 
 ment of Frederick, trade and manufactures flourished in 
 Heidelberg, and the town rapidly rose in wealth and pros- 
 perity. 
 
 Hans von Laudenbach established the first printing press 
 and in 1472 printed the Schwabenspiegel. Frederick the 
 Victorious died Dec. 12. 1476. He had lived in illicit con- 
 nection with Clara Dettin, of plebeian extraction, and from 
 their union was descended the princely house of Lowenstein. 
 
 His nephew, Philip the Sincere, governed from 1476 
 to 1508. He was a lover and patron of the sciences, and 
 invited the most learned and enlightened men of the age 
 to his court: among others, Dalberg and Agricola. 
 
 In 1481 one of the most brilliant tournaments of the 
 middle ages was held at Heidelberg, in honour of the Elector 
 Philip, at which the nobility and knighthood appeared with 
 great pomp. Four hundred and sixty-four knights: in all 
 3500 horsemen, were present, and the sports were held in 
 the electoral pleasure-gardens (between the present Fried- 
 richsstrasse and the Marzgasse). In 1489, the emperor 
 Maximilian remained here some time as the elector's guest, 
 after having been solemnly welcomed by the Corporation 
 and University. His consort, Margaret, dying in 1501, her 
 obsequies were celebrated with great magnificence: a kit-
 
 History of the town. 13 
 
 chen was erected in the open fields before the Speyerer- 
 thor, and many poor were regaled. 
 
 The marriage of Philip's son Rupert, to Elisabeth of 
 Bavaria, laid the foundation of the War of Succession, in 
 which Rupert laid claim to the inheritance of his consort. 
 Philip espoused the cause of his son, but the emperor 
 Maximilian deciding against him, enemies poured into the 
 Palatinate on every side, and Heidelberg was at one time 
 seriously threatened. Town and castle were however well 
 fortified and furnished with provisions for three years. 
 Citizens and students were divided into corps, and exerci- 
 sed in the use of arms. However, upon the assembling of 
 the Diet at Cologne, the war was put an end to by me- 
 diation. 
 
 Philip died 1508, and was succeeded by his sonLud- 
 wig V. 1508—1544. 
 
 In 1517 Luther came to Heidelberg, and held a dis- 
 putation in the Augustine monastery here. In 1524 an 
 assembly of 16 spiritual and temporal princes met here, 
 and entered into a solemn compact to preserve purity of 
 morals, to avoid drunkenness and cursing, and to maintain 
 temperance and chastity in their dominions. In honour of 
 this Convention, a great archery meeting was held in a 
 meadow on the hill before the Speyererhof (on the site 
 now occupied by the gardens opposite the Hotel Schrieder.) 
 
 Heidelberg being a strongly-fortified and well-defended 
 town , suffered nothing from the War of the Peasants, 
 which broke out in the early part of the sixteenth cen- 
 tury. Many princes, nobles, and prelates, who in their fear 
 of the revolted peasantry, had abandoned their possessions, 
 took refuge here. The Elector sallied forth at the head of 
 his army, against the peasants, and defeated them in se- 
 veral engagements, in the last of which, at Pfeddersheim, 
 upwards of one thousand of the rebels were either cut 
 down or executed. 
 
 In 1529, a deluge of rain, which lasted four days, and 
 which was called by the people, the Saint Vitus Shower, 
 caused great distress throughout the country. 
 
 In September 1535, the Elector's brother, Frederick, 
 Count Palatine, with his newly-made bride, Dorothea, Prin- 
 cess of Denmark, attended by a numerous retinue, and on
 
 14 History of the town. 
 
 their way from Ladenburg, made their entry into Heidel- 
 berg, by the Bridge, amid music and flourishing of trum- 
 pets. The rejoicings concluded with tournaments and festi- 
 vities of every kind. 
 
 It was the Elector Ludwig V. who completed the de- 
 fences of the Castle, by causing the great moat to be dug 
 and by the addition of the southern wall and bridge, The 
 Low Tower, and The Big Tower. That part of the Castle, 
 known by the name of the Stiickgarten is also ascribed 
 to Ludwig. 
 
 On the 25th. of April 1537, the old Castle was de- 
 stroyed by a flash of lightning which struck the powder- 
 magazine. The lower Castle, and even the town itself, were 
 damaged by the falling ruins. 
 
 Frederick II., Ludwig' s brother and successor, became 
 Elector. 1544—1556. He encouraged the Reformation, and 
 sent to Melancthon for a statement of his views on church 
 reform. On the 3rd. January 1546, the first Protestant 
 service was performed in the Church of the Holy Ghost. 
 In 1553 the most powerful princes of Germany, who had 
 at Frederick's invitation, assembled at Heidelberg, entered 
 into what was known as the Heidelberg Alliance, against 
 Charles V., who was hostile to the principles of reforma- 
 tion. In 1553, the Augustine monastery here, was trans- 
 formed by Frederick into a Collegium Sapientiae, in which 
 from 50 to 60 scholars were to be trained for the service 
 of the Church. Frederick II. died 1556, and was succeeded 
 by Otto Heinrich 1556—1559. This prince zealously 
 professed the doctrines established at the Confession of 
 Augsburg and caused all the lesser altars and pictures to 
 be removed from the Churches. He replaced the episcopal 
 vicars by a Church council, composed of spiritual and tem- 
 poral members. He sent for Melancthon from Worms, and 
 commissioned him with the establishment of a new eccle- 
 siastical and school discipline. He also built that portion 
 of the Castle which bears his name (Otto-Heinrichsbau), and 
 was a zealous promoter of the arts and sciences. He died 
 in 1559 and was succeeded by Frederick III. 1559 — 
 1576, the first Elector of the line of Simmern, which is 
 descended from the second son of King Rupert. Every- 
 where he established the reformed church service , and
 
 History of the town. 15 
 
 caused everything that yet remained of the ancient worship, 
 except the organs, to be removed from the churches,, so 
 that many left the country on account of these innovations. 
 In 1562, the Heidelberg Catechism was printed and brought 
 into use. He kindly received the Reformers who had been 
 driven out of France. Many families of these unfortunates 
 settled at Heidelberg, and by their mechanical skill, impar- 
 ted life and activity to the industry of the country. 
 
 The two preachers of Arianism (a sect who deny the 
 divinity of Christ). Adam Xeuser of Heidelberg, and John 
 Sylvan of Ladenburg, were both imprisoned here, 1571. 
 The former escaped out of prison, but Sylvan, after long 
 confinement — which was shared by his son. aged seven 
 years — was publicly beheaded on the market place. 
 
 Frederick's son and successor, Ludwig VI. (1576 — 
 1583) was ardently attached to the Lutheran faith. Baptis- 
 mal fonts, organs and altars were restored to the churches. 
 
 Frederick principally directed the influence of his go- 
 vernment to the propagation of his own religious opinions, 
 and both schools and University had much to endure from 
 his harsh and arbitrary interference in their affairs. Simple 
 in his habits and mode of life, his chief pleasure consisted 
 in witnessing the performance of moral plays by the stu- 
 dents and citizens. He died 1583. To him succeeded Ins 
 brother John Cassimir, as guardian to his son Frede- 
 rick, yet a minor. 
 
 Being attached to the doctrines of Calvin, this prince 
 invited many teachers devoted to the reformed faith, to the 
 University of Heidelberg. He founded a new college, near 
 to the site of the present University. In 1558, he caused 
 public granaries to be built as a provision against seasons 
 of scarcity, and stored them with grain from the proceeds 
 of a tax, levied upon legacies and dispensations. Long sub- 
 sequent to his death, in times of war and famine, the 
 benefits of this wise precaution were made apparent. It 
 was under Cassimir, that the first Great Tun was con- 
 structed here. He died 1592. 
 
 To him succeeded his ward, who assumed the govern- 
 ment under the title of Frederick IV. (1592—1610). The 
 young Elector resembled his grandfather and uncle in his 
 attachment to the reformed faith, and continued to main-
 
 1 C) History of the town. 
 
 tain the ecclesiastical ordinances established by them. He 
 founded the town of Mannheim; transforming what had 
 hitherto been a poor village, into a town and fortress, 
 which latter received the name of Friedrichsburg, the Elector 
 himself laying the foundation stone in presence of his fa- 
 mily and court, March 17th. 1606. 
 
 In the year 1601, in commemoration of the christe- 
 ning of one of the infant princes, a tournament was held 
 here, at which the Count Palatine Ludwig was mortally 
 wounded. 
 
 Under Frederick's government, both town and Castle 
 were materially enlarged and improved. The New Castle 
 Chapel, and the wing so rich in architectural beauty, and 
 known under the name of the Friederichsbau , deserve 
 especial mention as being his work. He was succeeded 
 by his son Frederick V. (1610—1632), who in 1622 
 espoused the English princess Elisabeth of the House of 
 Stuart. Their entry into Heidelberg surpassed in pomp and 
 magnificence, every thing that had taken place at princely 
 pageants and festivities here. The Grand Dukes of Wiir- 
 temberg, Baden, and Brunswick — in all 2000 guests were 
 present. Their escort was composed of 2000 horse, 16 com- 
 panies of foot, and 26 pieces of artillery. The cavalcade, 
 passing under numerous triumphal arches, entered the town 
 by the bridge, amidst the thunder of cannon. 
 
 The succeeding seven years (1612—1619), form the 
 most brilliant period of court life, in the annals of the Pa- 
 latinate. Every thing was after the French model, and in 
 fashionable circles only French was spoken. The nobility 
 and high functionaries, resident at Heidelberg, imitated the 
 example of the court. Hangings and tapestry of silk, beds 
 of the same costly material, and suites of furniture in velvet, 
 took the place of the wainscoted rooms, and the homely, 
 but substantial household requisites of former days. 
 
 To this interval of luxury and splendour , succeeded 
 one of misfortune and gloom. On the 16th. August 1619, 
 the Elector was chosen King of Bohemia. He accepted 
 the choice, and bade farewell to Heidelberg, after having 
 committed the reins of government to John, Count Pala- 
 tine. His mother, from a window of the castle, watched
 
 History of the town. 17 
 
 him depart , and is said mournfully to have ejaculated, 
 »Alas! the Pfalz is going to Bohemia now«! 
 
 The Thirty Years' War broke out. Spanish troops 
 under the Marquis Spinola, advanced towards the Berg- 
 strasse. The Court and many officials and citizens fled 
 from Heidelberg, which was hastily fortified, and a rampart 
 thrown up, extending from the Trutzkaiser down to the 
 Neckar. The spirited defence of Frankenthal , however, 
 and the approach of General Mansfeld at the head of a 
 considerable army, obliged the Spaniards to withdraw, and 
 Heidelberg was spared for the time. Shortly after this, 
 however, on the 22nd. of May 1662, Tilly appeared before 
 the town, surrounded it on all sides, and bombarded it 
 from the 25th. of August to the 15th. of September. On 
 the 16th. he commanded a general assault to be made. 
 The forts on the Geisberg were carried by storm : the 
 Groats swam the Neckar at Neuenheim, while at other 
 points the Bavarians forced their way into the suburb; in 
 their progress setting fire to everything. After a feeble 
 defence , the garrison withdrew by the Middle Gate into 
 the Old Town, the enemy however quickly found means 
 to force his way thither also, so that nothing remained for 
 the garrison but to defend the Castle, whither accordingly 
 the governor, Von der Merven and his troops, with many 
 families of the town, withdrew. 
 
 For three entire days did the infuriated victors sack 
 the town; plundering and murdering, and forcing the in- 
 habitants by every description of torture, to confess where 
 they had hidden their money and valuables. In the suburb, 
 the conflagration continued to rage, and laid forty houses 
 in ashes. On the 19th. of September, the Castle being no 
 longer tenable, capitulated on honourable terms, and the 
 garrison marched out with drums beating. 
 
 In 1631, Gustavus Adolphus landed in Germany. Vic- 
 torious at Frankfort, the Swedes advanced to the Berg- 
 strasse. Intelligence of their success being conveyed to 
 Frederick, who had lived for some time an exile in -Holland, 
 he left his retreat and set out on his way back to his 
 native land: He was, however, destined never to see Hei- 
 delberg again, but died at Mayence, 1632. 
 
 He was succeeded by his son Karl Ludwig (1632 — 
 
 2
 
 18 History of the town, 
 
 1680), who governed at first under the guardianship of 
 his uncle, Ludwig Philip, Count Palatine. 
 
 On the 5th. of May 1633, the Swedes made them- 
 selves masters of Heidelberg by a coup de main, where- 
 upon the Castle also capitulated. After the Battle of Nord- 
 lingen the Swedes again withdrew. On the 16th. of No- 
 vember 1634, the Bavarians under Colonel Werth, forced 
 an entrance into the suburb of Heidelberg, planted some 
 pieces of artillery in the Sandgasse and directed them against 
 the Middle Gate, by which means they gained an entrance 
 into the town; when the old scenes of robbery and plunder 
 were renewed. The Castle was however gallantly defen- 
 ded by the Swedish commandant, Abel Modu, and the 
 enemy finally compelled to abandon the siege. A fortnight 
 later, a fresh army of Imperialists appeared, and again the 
 town fell into their hands. 
 
 In 1635 the Castle too, surrendered to the Imperialists 
 under Gallas. 
 
 On the 15th. of October 1648, the war, which had 
 devastated Germany during thirty years, was terminated 
 by the Peace of Westphalia. Karl Ludwig was reinstated 
 in his dominions, and returned to Heidelberg, Oct. 7. 1649. 
 after an absence of thirty years. Town and country were 
 impoverished and laid waste. The Elector, with admirable 
 prudence, set about the work of restoration; he encoura- 
 ged emigration from Switzerland, France, and Italy and 
 invited able teachers to the orphaned University. In 1672 
 his son Karl espoused the princessErnestine of Denmark 
 and her entry into Heidelberg was celebrated with great 
 pomp. His daughter, Elisabeth Charlotte was w T edded 
 to Philip of Orleans, brother to Louis XIV. The Elector, 
 notwithstanding this alliance, did not enter into the ambi- 
 tious projects of Louis, but on the contrary, carried on 
 negotiations with bis great adversary, the Emperor Leopold. 
 A French army under Turenne , entered the Palatinate, 
 and ravaged and laid waste the sorely-tried land — which 
 had barely had time to recover itself — anew. Ludwig 
 died 1680. 
 
 Under the government of his son, the Elector Char- 
 les, Heidelberg was often the scene of court festivities, 
 tasteless dramatic representations, and military spectacles,
 
 History of the town. 19 
 
 contrived for the gratification of the sickly and morbid 
 elector, who moreover lived on unhappy terms with his 
 consort. With his death (1685), the line of Simmern be- 
 came extinct, and the electoral dignity passed over to Philip 
 William Duke of Neuburg (1685 — 1690). 
 
 Louis XIV. of France laid claim to considerable tracts 
 of land in the Palatinate, which, as the French maintained, 
 ought, upon the extinction of the House of Simmern, to 
 revert to the daughter of Karl Ludwig, the then Duchess 
 of Orleans. Much negotiation ensued, but before the claim 
 could be adjusted, Louis, availed himself of the right of 
 the strong, and Marshal Turenne entered the Palatinate 
 with a French army. 
 
 Heidelberg capitulated on the 24th. of October 1688. 
 The enemy, however , did not observe the terms of capi- 
 tulation and the inhabitants had to endure many oppressions. 
 Orders were received from Paris to lay waste the Palati- 
 nate. The work of destruction began on the 18th. January, 
 
 1689. The Castle was in part demolished, the gardens 
 and vineyards destroyed, and the surrounding villages burnt 
 to the ground. On the approach of the German troops, 
 the enemy began to think of retiring; before doing so, 
 however, they plundered the Castle of every thing of value, 
 and blew up the Big Tower : the bridge over the Neckar, 
 and the tower which stood on the side opposite the town, 
 shared the like fate. The officer in command of the French. 
 Brigadier Melac, then gave orders to set fire to the public 
 buildings, besides a great number of private houses. As the 
 town-hall was burning, Melac, from the market place, 
 watched with a mocking smile, the progress of the flames. 
 Many of the French officers, however, with more huma- 
 nity than their leader, executed their barbarous task only 
 in appearance. On the 2nd. March, the French quitted 
 Heidelberg, and the Imperial troops once more occupied 
 town and castle, which having been again put into an 
 efficient state of defence, were committed to the charge 
 of general von Heydersdorff. Philip William died at Vienna 
 
 1690, and was succeeded bv his son, the Elector, John 
 William (1690-1716). On the 16th. and 17th. of May, 
 1693, the French, under the command of General de Lorges, 
 crossed the Rhine at Philippsburg, and General Chamilly
 
 20 History of the town. 
 
 advanced upon Heidelberg. On the 22nd. of May 1693, 
 town and castle, fell into the hands of the French, owing 
 to the cowardice and treachery of the commandant, von 
 Heydersdorff. The old scenes of horror were again enacted, 
 only on a larger scale. The tombs of the Electors, in the 
 Church of the Holy Ghost, were broken open and plunder- 
 ed: the Castle, by means of mines and by levelling the 
 walls, was completely destroyed, and the town laid in ashes, 
 so that only a few houses more massive than the rest 
 (among others, the Hotel Ritter) survived. In the suburb, 
 only about twenty houses were left standing, whereas the 
 Schlossberg escaped almost untouched. The fortifications 
 around the town and upon the Gaisberg were razed to the 
 ground, so that scarcely a trace of them is now to be found. 
 Having completed the work of destruction, the French again 
 withdrew to Phlippsburg. Such of the inhabitants as had 
 fled, returned and took up a temporary abode in the cel- 
 lars and ruins of the fallen houses. 
 
 Meanwhile the Elector resided at Diisseldorf. It was 
 not until the year 1697, that Heidelberg began to recover 
 itself: the Castle was again cleared of rubbish and render- 
 ed habitable: fresh bands of emigrants were induced to 
 settle here; many families, under the pressure of bad 
 times, having lied to England, where they had been pro- 
 mised shelter and protection. Many of the descendants 
 of these refugees , bearing names such as are heard only 
 in the Palatinate, have established themselves at London, 
 where they occupy respectable positions. Tradition has pre- 
 served among them the story of their German origin. 
 
 Owing to the number of houses that were built after 
 the destruction by the French, Heidelberg became quite a 
 new town. The ramparts and ditches at the Middle Gate 
 and around the town were not again restored. Generally 
 speaking, the original direction of the streets was retained; 
 nevertheless, whenever occasion necessitates an excavation, 
 we find evidence, that here too, many changes must have 
 been made. 
 
 In 1706 the foundation stone of the present Univer- 
 sity was laid. 
 
 John William expired 1716, and was succeeded by 
 his brother, Charles Philip (1716—1742).
 
 History of the town. 21 
 
 In 1735, the head-quarters of Prince Eugene of Savoy 
 were at Heidelberg. 
 
 In 1784, during the melting of the ice, the Neckar 
 rose to such a height, that in the streets leading from the 
 river to the Hauptstrasse, people were able to row about 
 in boats. The Bridge, the mills on the Neckar — alto- 
 gether thirty-nine houses — were destroyed, and two hun- 
 dred and ninety, more or less seriously damaged. 
 
 In 1786, the fourth jubilee of the University was cele- 
 brated ; the town manifesting a lively interest in the pro- 
 ceedings. In 1795, street-lighting was introduced. 
 
 In 1799 a detachment of French, under General Lorset, 
 marched up the Bergstrasse, and attempted no less than 
 seven times in vain to enter the town by storming the 
 bridge, which was defended by about 400 Austrians with 
 a single piece of cannon. During the night, the Austrians 
 silently quitted the town, and the next morning the French 
 entered. 
 
 In the course of the wars with France , Heidelberg 
 was almost constantly the head-quarters of the Austrian 
 generals, and many emigrants settled here. 
 
 Charles Theodore, 1792 — 1799 and Maximilian 
 Joseph, 1799 — 1802, were the last Electors of the Pala- 
 tinate. 
 
 In virtue of a treaty concluded between France, Prussia, 
 and Bavaria, Heidelberg and various other parts of the Pa- 
 latinate, fell to Baden, and on the 24th. of June 1803, 
 Charles Frederick made his entry here. He reigned 
 till 1811. In the course of his administration, this wise 
 prince raised Heidelberg from the secondary position which, 
 as an abandoned and neglected court residence she had 
 long occupied, to one of wealth and prosperity. By the 
 appointment of excellent teachers , and by enlarging the 
 academical institutions and adding to their number , he 
 may be said to have founded the University for the second 
 time, thereby causing the literary fame of the town te be- 
 come extended far and wide , and laying open to her a 
 source of wealth, that has continued to jield without inter- 
 ruption, up to the present day. 
 
 To Frederick succeeded the Grand Duke Charles 
 1811—1818. In the spring of 1815, the Emperors of Russia
 
 22 History of the town. 
 
 and Austria had their head-quarters at Heidelberg. This, 
 together with the constant passage of troops, gave the town, 
 for the time an unusual appearance of life and animation. 
 
 From 1818 to 1830, the Grand Duke Ludwig governed. 
 
 In 1824, the town again suffered from an inundation, 
 almost as serious as that of 1784. 
 
 In 1827, the Middle Gate, which stood near the middle 
 of the towu, on the square called the Ludwigsplatz, and 
 which divided the Old Town from the Suburb, was remo- 
 ved. This has given to the square, a brighter and more 
 cheerful aspect , the old gate with its lofty tower having 
 obscured everything in its neighbourhood, besides impe- 
 ding the traffic by its low and narrow arch. 
 
 In 1830, the Grand Duke Leopold ascended the throne. 
 In the month of May of the same year , he made his so- 
 lemn entry into Heidelberg. On this occasion the Gastie 
 was illuminated, and, viewed from the valley below, pro- 
 duced a grand effect, lit up as it was with its thousands 
 of lamps and jets. 
 
 From the year 1830, the general improvement of the 
 town may be said to have commenced: the streets became 
 adorned with handsome shops, and on the site of ancient 
 fortifications, rose a row of tastefully-built dwelling-houses. 
 
 In 1840, the stations of the Baden and Main-Neckar 
 Railways were commenced. About the same time the na- 
 vigation of the Neckar was opened, and the many beautiful 
 points among the surrounding hills, rendered more easy of 
 access by the construction of good roads. The effect of 
 these improvements was soon visible. The natural beauties 
 of the neighbourhood became more generally known ; stran- 
 gers flocked hither from all parts, and many among them, 
 charmed with the beauty of the surrounding scenery, have 
 made it their permanent abode. As a resort of tourists, 
 Heidelberg becomes every year more popular. 
 
 In 1852 Prince Frederick of Baden was appointed 
 Regent. His public entry into Heidelberg took place on 
 the 31st. of October in the same year. The streets and 
 houses were decorated with garlands, and in the evening, 
 the Prince honoured the ceremony of opening the new. 
 Town Theatre with his presence. The town and castle 
 were also brilliantly illuminated.
 
 History of the town. 23 
 
 On the 31st. of May 1860, he repeated his visit, ac- 
 companied by the Grand Duchess Louise, on which occa- 
 sion the rejoicings lasted three days, and the Castle was 
 illuminated with Bengal fire. 
 
 In former times the town was of quite another form ; 
 being surrounded on every side with fortifications, watch- 
 towers and ditches : within, rose above the houses the spires 
 of the numerous convents. The castellated dwellings of 
 the nobility of the Rhine and Neckar, who either from 
 occupying some distinguished post at the court of the 
 Elector, or from the wish to enjoy court-life, had taken 
 up their residence here, occupied considerable space, most 
 of them having a spacious court-yard attached. 
 
 In accordance with the ancient monastic regulations 
 of the University, the students lived in common with the 
 professors, in large buildings, where they were boarded and 
 educated. These buildings were called Bursen, whence the 
 appellation of Bursche (fellow), borne by the students of 
 the present day. 
 
 The southern portion of the suburb (Vorstadt) , nearly 
 from the Sandgasse to the Marzgasse was occupied by the 
 Court Garden of the Electors , called the Herrengarten 
 (Gentlemens' Garden), where, in days of yore the tourna- 
 ments were held. The ancient wooden bridge was covered 
 with a roof of the same material, and provided on the 
 Neunheim side with a tower and fortified tete de pont, 
 surrounded by a ditch. 
 
 Above, the electoral castle, with its massive ramparts 
 and towers, palaces and battlements , dominated the sur- 
 rounding country, while at the extremity of the town frow- 
 ned the stern bulwark of Frederick the Victorious, the Trutz- 
 kaiser. The town terminated on the east with the Leyer- 
 gasse, where a wall extended from the Neckar away up 
 to the Castle. In this wall, and facing the Leyergasse was 
 the Town Gate and beyond of that from the Leyergasse to 
 the present Kailsthor was a second suburb, where lay the 
 Carmelite Cloister , the old Hospital , and various mills. 
 Town and suburb were separated by the Middle Gate, 
 which contracted and darkened the Hauptstrasse (High 
 Street). The projecting upper stories of the houses rende- 
 red the already narrow street still narrower ; from the gable-
 
 24 History of the town. 
 
 roofs the rain water rushed down through spouts, the ends of 
 which were aften fantastically decorated with heads of lions, 
 dogs, etc. Nohody ever thought of illuminating the streets. 
 
 At present, Heidelberg has quite the appearance of a 
 modern town. The fire of 1693 swept away with few 
 exceptions, all the old houses; nevertheless the orginal 
 arangement of the streets has, generally speaking, been 
 retained. The houses of the more ancient parts of the town 
 stand closely together, but few of them enjoying the ad- 
 vantage of a garden, although some among them — those 
 in the Hauptstrasse and on the Market-Place are, from their 
 position, well -adapted for the transaction of business. 
 On the other hand, the houses of the ancient Suburb, 
 stand wider apart and are more airy, and most of them 
 boast of an entrance-hall and garden. The new Anlage, 
 which reaches from the Klingenthor to the railway-station, 
 is, owing to its salubrious situation, the favourite residence 
 of strangers who purpose making a stay here. The cer- 
 tainty of being always able to let advantageously, causes 
 speculators and others to add new houses every year. 
 Again, the Bergheimerstrasse at the West-End of the town, 
 offers an excellent site for dwelling-houses ; a fact of which 
 building speculators have evidently become aware, to judge 
 by the rapidity with which the gaps are being filled up. On 
 a large plot between the Bergheimerstrasse aud the Neckar, 
 the new Medico-chirurgical Hospital is in process of erection. 
 The houses too , along the Neckar , on the side opposite 
 the town, as well as those beyond the Karlsthor, enjoy 
 the advantage, of a fine prospect, with a pretty and salu- 
 brious situation. 
 
 The Bergstadt, or as it is called here; the »Schloss- 
 berg« , or shorter still, »The Berg«, forms a distinct 
 quarter of itself, and extends from the Klingenthor up to 
 the Castle, most of the houses being on the left hand side. 
 In former times, this quarter had its own municipality, and 
 enjoyed special privileges. It was under the control of the 
 Grand Burgrave of the electoral residence. Near the upper 
 end of the Bergstadt, there still stands the ancient town- 
 hall bearing the arms of the Palatinate, and the symbol 
 of the Criminal Court — a severed hand, with the inscrip- 
 tion »Burgfreiheit 1653, renovirt 1731«.
 
 History of the town. 25 
 
 Within the town proper are still standing a few sta- 
 tely buildings , which date from the period at which the 
 court returned from exile, and the town was rebuilt. These 
 have at different times passed into the hands of private 
 individuals. The most remarkable are. 
 
 The house of Consul Krieger, near the Karlsthor and 
 occupying the site of the old hospital, which was built by 
 the ecclesiastical counsellor Von Liimeschloss. Opposite it 
 stands the house formedy occupied by Herr Mitschell, now 
 in the possession of Herr Guntz. Behind is a fine garden, 
 supported on arches. This was for some years the Go- 
 vernment High School. Then in the Hirschstrasse, the house 
 of Herr Nebel, where the residence of the Landschaden 
 von Steinach — who held office at the court of the Count 
 Palatine — formerly stood. The large parsonage close by, 
 with the courtyard in front was formerly the Monchhof, 
 where the spiritual court of the Palatinate used to hold 
 its sittings. Crossing the bridge from the town, the house 
 to the right, called the Krauss'che House, attracts attention. 
 As may be seen from an inscription on a stone let into 
 the wall, this was the ancient Neckar School , an institu- 
 tion which has stood upwards of five centuries. Here poor 
 scholars were boarded and educated. 
 
 In the Suburb (Vorstadt) stands the house formerly 
 belonging to the Freiherr von Zyllenhard, now in the pos- 
 session of Privy Councillor Dr. von Ghelius. This is one 
 of the handsomest and most tastefully-built houses in the 
 whole town. Others worthy of notice are: the house of 
 Privy Councellor von Vangerow, which formerly belonged 
 to the Counts of Wieser and Helmstatt, the so-called House 
 of the Giant, at one time in the possession of the von 
 Venningen family: the house of Privy Counscellor von Le- 
 onhard, built by Jungwirth, physician in ordinary to the 
 Counts Palatine &c. &c. 
 
 The more modern buildings exhibit a certain amount 
 of taste , but are mostly , simple in style and devoid of 
 architectural decorations; in short, practical and substantial.
 
 26 Squares and Public Buildings. 
 
 Squares and Public Buildings. 
 
 The Karlsplatz. A double row of trees surrounds 
 this square. Here stands the house generally occupied by 
 the grand-ducal family on their visits here, and in which 
 Field Marshal Prince Wrede was born. Opposite is the 
 head office of the grand-ducal steward, a house, formerly 
 the property of Freiherr von Sickingen. The Convent of 
 Barefooted Friars, where Frederick the Victorious was in- 
 erred, also stood on this square. 
 
 The Kommarkt (Corn Market) formerly served as 
 a parade-ground for the local military. The statue to the 
 Virgin here, was erected in 1718. 
 
 The Speisemarkt (Provision Market). Here stands 
 the Town Hall, built in 1701, and near it the ancient inn, 
 bearing the sign of »The Golden Stags where the famous 
 knight Gotz von Berlichingen (as he himself relates in his 
 autobiography) , was in the habit of putting up when he 
 came to Heidelberg. Close by, conspicuous by its style of 
 architecture, stands »Der Ritter«, a fine old inn, built in 
 1592 by a French emigrant named Belier. The front is 
 adorned with busts of the French kings, together with 
 those of the architect and his family. Both style and sculp- 
 ture remind one of the Otto-Heinrichsbau , and serve to 
 give an idea of the splendid edifices that may have adorned 
 the town before the great fire, it being scarcely probable 
 that this house was the only one of its kind. It was one 
 of the few that escaped the flames, and -served as Town- 
 Hall during the period when Heidelberg was once more 
 rising from its ashes. 
 
 On the market-place is a fountain, adorned with a 
 statue of the Farnese Hercules. 
 
 The Fischmarkt (Fish-Market) lies behind the Church 
 of the Holy Ghost, and presents no remarkable feature. 
 
 The Heumarkt (Hay Market) lies at the end of the 
 Unterstrasse. 
 
 The katliolisehe Kirch e n pi at z , so called from the 
 Parochial Catholic Church and deanery, which occupy the 
 greater part of it. 
 
 The Ludwigsplatz, sometimes called Paradeplatz. 
 Here are the University buildings and the Museum, and
 
 Buchh. 
 
 RITTER
 
 Squares and Public Buildings. 27 
 
 here too once stood the ancient chapel to The Holy Vir- 
 gin in the Wilderness . long before the town itself was 
 built. This was subsequently the Augustine Monastery, in 
 which the emperor Rupert held his court for some time, 
 and whither the same monarch summoned the citizens and 
 students to attend, on the occasion of the great riot already 
 mentioned, when he solemnly charged them on pain of death 
 and confiscation of property, to keep the peace. In 1510 
 and again in 1518, Luther was residing in this monastery, 
 and is said to have more than once publicly expounded his 
 doctrines here. Many of the Counts Palatine as also the 
 famous Hans von Laudenbach, who printed the first book 
 in Heidelberg, were interred here. The epitaph of the 
 latter was in the porch of the ancient church and ran thus: 
 Hans von Laudenbach ist raein Nam 
 Die erste Biicher druckt ich zu Rom 
 Bit vor mem Seel Gott giebt dir Lohn 
 Starb 1514 uff Sanct Steffan. 
 
 In digging: for the foundations of the Museum, the 
 workmen came upon several vaults, which extended far 
 under the square, and were still in good preservation. 
 
 The Marstallhof (Royal Mews). Four hundred years 
 ago this site was occupied by the Arsenal. The mews, 
 provided with a tower at each of the four corners, is not 
 unlike a fortress, and was built by Gasimir, Count Pala- 
 tine, 1543. Here are now the head office for the Customs, 
 bonded, warehouses, the Academical Lying-in Hospital, 
 and the Riding School. 
 
 The Zimmerplatz opens towards the Neckar.' The 
 houses here are airy and command a fine view of the river. 
 Part of the Zimmerplatz is used as a timber-yard. 
 
 The Arboretum or Luisenplatz, between the An- 
 lage and Hauptstrasse, served formerly as Rotanical Garden 
 to the University. At the northern end stands the Che- 
 mical Laboratory, only recently erected, and to the south, 
 lacing the Anlage, the statue raised by king Ludwig of 
 Bavaria, to the memory of Field-Marshal Wrede 1860.
 
 28 Churches. 
 
 Churches. 
 
 Church of the Holy Ghost. The exact date of 
 erection is uncertain, but so early as 1289, we find the 
 widow Markholf bequeathing her mill on the Neckar to this 
 church for the purpose of maintaining a certain number of 
 tapers perpetually burning. In 1398, the Elector Rupert raised 
 it to the rank of a cathedral church, and endowed it with 
 revenues. The steeple was not added till 1408. In the 
 year 1462, the colours captured by Frederick the Victo- 
 rious at the Battle of Seckenheim, were suspended here. 
 On the 3nd. of January 1546, after the establishment of 
 the Reformation, the Communion was, for the first time, 
 administered in both kinds here. In the course of time 
 the church passed alternately from the hands of the Re- 
 formers and Lutherans, into those of its original possessors 
 the Catholics, until the 23rd. of October 1698, when it 
 was decided to carry on the Catholic and Protestant ser- 
 vices simultaneously here. In 1705, the magnificent interior 
 was divided into two by means of a wall, the Choir being 
 allotted to the Catholics, and the Nave to the Protestants. 
 In the choir were formerly ranged the books composing 
 the University Library, which were transferred to Rome 
 in 1622. In 1719, the Elector Philip demanded that the 
 church should be restored to the Catholics, promising, after 
 long negotiation, to build the Reformers a new church of 
 equal dimensions and likewise on the market-place. The 
 latter refusing to comply, the Elector took possession of 
 the church by force, and caused the partition-wall to be 
 removed. The Reformers appealed to the Emperor and 
 to the various princes of the Empire. At length, remon- 
 strances from the emperor and reprisals on the part of 
 the Protestant powers, compelled the Elector to yield, and 
 the Reformers had their church restored to them. Stung 
 at the defeat of his cherished scheme, the Elector. in his 
 resentment, transferred his court and household to Mann- 
 heim, 1720. The fatal partition-wall was once more raised. 
 This church formerly contained the family-vault of the Elec- 
 tors Palatine. From 1410 to 1605, no less than thirty elec- 
 tors and electresses, counts palatine and princesses, besides 
 many of the nobility and clergy, were here interred.
 
 Churches. 20 
 
 On the taking of the town by the French, in May 
 1693, the infortunate inhabitants were driven into this 
 church ; the doors were secured, and fire set to the sacred 
 edifice. Not until the roof threatened to fall in were the 
 hapless victims released, but not before many of them, 
 had been suffocated by the smoke , or had fallen victims 
 to fear and terror. 
 
 The familly- vault of the Electors, in the choir, was 
 forced open, by the soldiers, the coffins broken, the corp- 
 ses stripped of their jewels, and some of them thrown out 
 into the street. 
 
 At the restoration of the Choir in 1845, the vault was 
 opened, and many of the implements made use of by the 
 soldiers in their work of destruction, together with skele- 
 tons of children and fragments of clothing were found. 
 Several of those objects have been placed in Count Graim- 
 berg's collection of antiquities at the Castle. 
 
 The church is in the Gothic style; the most ancient 
 portion is the choir with its lofty and richly ornamented 
 windows. The shops and stalls between the buttresses 
 were let to tradespeople as early as 1487. 
 
 The Catholic Parish Church or Church of the 
 Jesuits was begun in 1712, but was not completed until 1751. 
 
 Under the Elector John William, the ground now occu- 
 pied by this church, together with the adjoining space was 
 assigned to the Jesuits, for the erection of a church and 
 college. The interior is remarkable for the noble simpli- 
 city and sublimity of its style. On one of the side altars 
 is a small Madonna of exquisite colouring and sweet ex- 
 pressive features; evidently the work of an artist of no 
 common merit; possibly of Sasso Ferrato (1605 — 1685), 
 who had a predilecton for making the earlier productions 
 of Raphael his model. At the termination of the war occa- 
 sioned by the claims of the Orleans family , the bones of 
 Frederick the Victorious were transferred to the vault in 
 this church, where they still repose. 
 
 St. Peter's. This is one of tne oldest churches in 
 the town. The date of its erection is uncertain. In 1392 
 it was assigned to the inhabitants of the village of Berg- 
 heim (then a suburb of Heidelberg) as parish church. After 
 the Reformation, it was granted to the Reformers, and in
 
 30 Churches. 
 
 1622, after the taking of the town, again to the Catholics. 
 In 1633 the Swedes being musters of the place, the Lutheran 
 service was celebrated here , on which occasion the cele- 
 brated chancellor Oxenstiern was present. In 1635, it again 
 came into the possession of the Catholics, and so remained 
 until 1649, from which time it has continued uninterrup- 
 tedly in the hands of the Protestants. In the adjacent- 
 churchyard, Jeronimus of Prague — who had (1406) been 
 received into the philosophical faculty at Heidelberg — de- 
 fended, amidst profound sensation, the doctrines of John 
 Huss. Here too, repose the generations of many centuries. 
 In the choir is the Degenfeld familly-vault. in which lie the 
 bodies of two of the children of the Elector Charles Lud- 
 wig by Luise von Degenfeld. To the left are the monuments 
 of many illustrious scholars ; while to the right , that of 
 Peter Beuterichs, a gallant general in the time of Frede- 
 rich III, attracts attention. At the northern entrance by 
 the side door, is the simple monument of Olympia Ful- 
 via Morata, a young Italian lady, distinguished for her 
 beauty and learning , and who is said to have frequently 
 lectured here to a crowded audience , on philosophy and 
 philology. She died 1555. Ranged round the outer walls 
 are numerous monuments of nobles, scholars, and citizens. 
 A steeple, in the rich and fervent Gothic style has recently 
 been added, and the renovation of the interior completed. 
 The stained-glass windows in the choir are the gift of Pro- 
 testant parishioners. There is regular service on Sundays. 
 
 The Providence Church stands in the Vorstadt. It 
 was begun in 1659, and was two years in building. It has 
 recently been considerably improved by taking down the 
 old galleries, which intercepted the light, and by changing 
 the place of the organ. The interior too has been re-de- 
 corated. The only large window, at the back of the choir, 
 is adorned with a magnificent painting representing Christ's 
 Ascension. 
 
 St. Anne's. A small church, connected with the Town 
 Alms House. 
 
 The English Chapel, near the Anlage, was for- 
 merly a part of the Church of the Dominican convent, and 
 is now fitted up for Divine Service for the English Com- 
 munity.
 
 The Bridge. — The University. 31 
 
 Gates. The town has four gates; viz; I The Karls- 
 thor or Upper Gate, with the profiles of Charles Theodore and 
 his consort. It was erected in the year 1775, at a time, 
 when the authorities found themselves in some embarrass- 
 ment as to the investment of the over-abundant funds in 
 the town-treasury. II The Briickenthor (Bridge Gate). 
 
 III The Klingenthor, at the foot of the Schlossberg. 
 
 IV The Burgthor (Castle Gat-). 
 
 The Bridge. 
 
 Was commenced in 1786, and was two years in pro- 
 cess of erection. The ancient wooden edifice had been swept 
 away by the inundation of 1784. The present structure is 
 700 German feet in length, and 30 in breadth, is built of 
 red sandstone, and supported by nine piers. It is adorned 
 with two statues, one of which represents the Elector Char- 
 les Theodore, surrounded by personifications of the rivers of 
 the ancient Palatinate: the Rhine, Danube, Neckar and 
 Moselle: the other the goddess Minerva in the midst of a 
 group of figures symbolical of the learned faculties. The 
 storming of the Bridge in 1799 has left its traces on these 
 statues in the shape of numerous bullet-marks and mutilations. 
 
 The University. 
 
 The present University buildings are situated on the 
 square called Ludwigsplatz , and were erected after the 
 Great Fire of 1(593. In addition to the various lecture-rooms 
 they contain a spacious and tastefully decorated hall for 
 solemn occassions, such as academical assemblies, acts, etc., 
 and called Aula. 
 
 The University of Heidelberg was founded by the 
 Elector Rupert I, 1386, and Marsilius von Ingheim 
 was appointed the first rector. On its being opened, only 
 three professors were nominated, viz. Reginald, a Cister- 
 cian monk, who expounded the Epistle ot Paul to Titus; 
 Heilmann Wunenberg of Worms , who gave readings 
 on the Natural Historv of Aristotle, and the rector. Mar- 
 silius von Ingheim, who taught Logic; these were ho-
 
 32 The University, 
 
 wevcr joined in the course of a few weeks by Ditmar 
 von Schwerthe and Johann von Noet. Marsilius orga- 
 nised the university exactly after the model of that at Paris. 
 The students of the different faculties lived together, under 
 the superintendence of their teachers, in separate colleges, 
 called Bursen. Already in the first year, their number 
 amounted to 524. Most of these Bursen were in the square 
 between the Kettengasse and Augustinergasse , where the 
 Catholic Parish Church now stands. At first, the philoso- 
 phical faculty was most strongly represented; among the 
 teachers were six masters of the liberal arts. 
 
 The medical faculty was the last to be formed. From 
 1387 to 1393 Lambert von Ostkirchen was the only 
 teacher of medical science in Heidelberg. The succeeding 
 electors devoted much attention to the university, and richly 
 endowed it with revenues from the Customs or from con- 
 fiscated monasteries, The institution soon rose from the 
 bonds of scholasticism to a clearer conception and more 
 brilliant treatment of the sciences. 
 
 The Elector Frederick II promoted the onward pro- 
 gress of the University by the appointment of new teachers 
 and by judiciously altering the existing regulations, he foun- 
 ded two new chairs for the philosophical faculty, one for 
 Mathematics and the other for Ethics and erected the so- 
 called, Sapienz collegium in which poor students were boar- 
 ded, lodged, instructed, and furnished with books free of 
 charge. Every student was considered poor who could not 
 raise annually fourteen florins ; a sum, which at that time 
 was held sufficient for his yearly maintenance. This is 
 indeed inconceivable in the present day and is only to be 
 explained by the high value of money in those days the 
 exceeding cheapness of the necessaries of life, and the 
 simple habits of the people. During the administration of 
 Otto Henry, the University was tended with especial love 
 and care: at the suggestion of Melanchthon, a scheme 
 was framed for its re-organisation, and the lectures to be 
 delivered were minutely specified. The approaching times 
 of religious strife had a prejudicial effect upon the Univer- 
 sity. Able teachers were dismissed, and others appointed 
 in their place: and this, merely because the former hap- 
 pened to profess religious principles different from those
 
 The University. 33 
 
 of the reigning prince. Such changes as these occurred 
 frequently. On the taking of the town by Tilly, all the 
 Protestant teachers were dismissed, and Catholics appointed 
 in their stead. Professor von Spina had escaped with the 
 archives of the university to Frankfort, 1623. The library 
 was considered as among the spoils of war, and was car- 
 ried away to Rome. 
 
 Under the Elector Charles Ludwig, the orphaned 
 university was once more restored, and again after the 
 total destruction of the town in 1693, the Elector John 
 William manifested a truly paternal interest for the wel- 
 fare of the sorely-distressed institution. He insured it a 
 fixed income, provided for the appointment of new teachers, 
 and augmented the number of academical institutions. In 
 1784 the High School for the study of political economy, 
 which had hitherto been at Kaiserslautern, was incorporated 
 with the Heidelberg University, upon which occasion Jung, 
 called also Stilling came with the pupils to Heidelberg, 
 as teacher. 
 
 In 1786 the University celebrated the fourth jubilee 
 of her foundation. The War of the French Revolution 
 deprived her of all the possessions and revenues on the 
 Upper Rhine, with which in the course of centuries, she 
 had been endowed; thereby reducing her to a condition, 
 forlorn in the extreme. With the wise and magnanimous 
 Prince Charles Frederick of Baden, who by the Peace 
 of Presburg 1803, came into possession of the town, 
 brighter prospects began to dawn. The Prince immedia- 
 tely declared his intention of restoring the university. Con- 
 siderable sums were annually set aside for the professors' 
 salaries, library, improvements of various kinds, as well as 
 for the augmentation of the different scientific collections. 
 Excellent men were nominated as teachers, wherely the 
 fame of the university was diffused far beyond the limits 
 of the Fatherland. As a mark of grateful acknowledgement 
 and in order to perpetuate the memory of Charles Fre- 
 derick, the University from this time has borne the name 
 of Ruperto-Garolina. Since his time his illustrious suc- 
 cessors have continued to watch over and promote the 
 interests of the university with paternal care. The acade- 
 mical institutions are being enlarged and improved so as 
 
 3
 
 34 Academical Institutions and Collections. 
 
 to keep pace with the march of science , the chairs are 
 constantly occupied by eminent professors, so that at pre- 
 sent the University of Heidelberg is one of the most fa- 
 mous and best attended in Germany. The late Grand Duke 
 Leopold completed his scientific studies here (1809—1811) 
 and from 1844 to 1845, Heidelberg saw the Grand Duke 
 Frederick and his brother the Grand Duke Ludwig , as 
 pupils of the High School, within its walls. 
 
 Academical Institutions and Collections. 
 
 The Library, which was formerly in a room on the 
 ground-floor of the University has, since the year 1827, been 
 ranged in a large building close by, which was erected by 
 the Jesuits as a seminary for boys, purchased by the town 
 and presented to the University, the authorities of which 
 caused it to be judiciously fitted up for the reception of 
 the books. On the three floors of the interior, which com- 
 municate with each other by a curious iron staircase, are 
 ranged the collections composing the library. There are 
 some 300,000 volumes, over 2000 manuscripts, 1000 do- 
 cuments and 7000 dissertations. The libraries of the late 
 professors Hausser and Mittermaier are ranged separately. 
 
 The legacy of the Elector Ludwig III formed the first 
 foundation of the collection. In 1421 he bequeathed to the 
 University his books, consisting of 89 manuscripts on Theo- 
 logy, 7 on Canon law, 5 on Jurisprudence, 45 on Medecine 
 and 6 on Philosophy, which, according to his directions, were 
 ranged in the Church of the Holy Ghost, for the use of 
 the students. In the course of time the library was in- 
 creased by purchases, donations and legacies. The Elector 
 Otto Henry presented it with some rare Arabic and Greek 
 manuscripts, brought home by him on his return from the 
 East. Ulrich Fugger, who died at Heidelberg, bequeathed 
 it his rich collection of books and manuscripts , and the 
 suppression of a monastery would often enrich it with many 
 volumes. On the taking of the town by Tilly, Pope Gre- 
 gory XV. begged of Duke Maximilian of Bavaria the collection 
 of manuscripts and documents. The duke complied with 
 the request, upon which, a special ambassador, Leo Alla- 
 tius of Rome was despatched hither to receive and forward
 
 Academical Institutions and Collections. 35 
 
 them to Rome,, where they were ranged in thirty cases, 
 under the name of Bibliotheca palatina. At the intercession 
 of the Austrian and Prussian govemements 1815 and 1816 
 great part of them were restored. The library is accessible 
 to professors or students, as indeed to every man of edu- 
 cation. It is open daily from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4. 
 
 The Archaeological Collection was founded in 
 1852. It was temporarily placed in the upper story of the 
 building at present containing the library, but in 1870, the 
 house Nr. 7 Augustinergasse was purchased by the Uni- 
 versity, and having been permanently fitted up, the collection 
 was transferred thither (Jan. 1870). In accordance with 
 the object of the academy, it consists for the most part of 
 casts, models, drawings, maps etc. nevertheless it also con- 
 tains a number of Roman sculptures, altars, vessels, coins 
 etc. found in the vicinity, besides a large number of ena- 
 melled vases, bronzes, clay figures, lamps, fragments of 
 marble etc. partly from Italy, but principally specimens 
 of Greek (Attic) art , most of which formed part of the 
 Thiersch Collection at Munich. The collection of coins 
 of Fr. Creuzer, for which there is a special catalogue 
 is likewise in this building. Among the plaster casts are 
 about 20 large statues, a great number of busts and a 
 model of the Acropolis at Athens. 
 
 A collection for mediaeval art has also been begun 
 and has been incorporated with one for copper-plate en- 
 gravings, which had hitherto been attached to the library. The 
 Society for general lectures during the winter has espe- 
 cially contributed to its enrichment, and considerable addi- 
 tions have been made to it from gifts and various other 
 sources. It is open to the public on Wednesdays and Sa- 
 turdays from 12 to 1 , or may be seen any day in the 
 week on application to the porter, who resides in the buil- 
 ding. Especial facilities are granted to students (particu- 
 larly to Members of the Archaeological Institute) who de- 
 sire to avail themselves of this collection. 
 
 The Medico-chirurgical Hospital for in and out- 
 door patients is opposite the University library; in what 
 was formerly the Jesuitical Seminary, called the Semina- 
 rium Carolinum; a spacious edifice, erected between the 
 years 1750 and 1765, with two wings extending towards
 
 36 Academical Institutions and Collections. 
 
 the street, and containing an ample courtyard. Here are 
 the Surgical School with its accessories, the Town and 
 Academical Hospital, and, in an adjacent building, the lecture- 
 hall, operating theatre, etc. 
 
 The Lying- in Hospital is at the southern corner 
 of the Marstallhof, and serves both for practical instruction 
 to the students of medicine and as a finishing-school for 
 midwives in the Lower Circle of the Rhine. 
 
 The School of Anatomy is a noble edifice of mo- 
 dern construction; containing an auditorium, dissecting- 
 rooms, and anatomical collections. It is situated behind 
 the Friedrichsbau. 
 
 The Chemical Laboratory on the north side of the 
 Wredeplatz was erected in 1854 under the supervision of 
 Director Buns en, and was opened in the Summer Term 
 of 1855. 
 
 The Friedrichsbau is a stately structure in the 
 western part of the town, standing a little way back from 
 the Hauptstrasse. It contains the following collections: 
 
 I The Physical Cabinet. 
 
 II The Zoological Cabinet, which includes also the 
 paleontological collection, in the latter is a very complete 
 skeleton of the Halitherium Schinzii from the Mayence ba- 
 sin. Open on Saturday from 2 to 4, but may also be seen 
 at any time on special application. 
 
 III The Schiiler Mineral Collection. Purchased 
 by the University from Professor Schiiler of Jena. Open 
 on Wednesdays from 2 to 4. 
 
 The Botanical Garden is opposite the Augenklinik 
 and close to the Mannheimerthorplatz. The building in 
 front, with a porch before it, contains the auditoriums, be- 
 sides dwellings for the garden employes. 
 
 The Agricultural Garden lies facing the station of 
 the Baden Line , at the south-west extremity of the An- 
 lage. In the middle is a sort of rustic dwelling, tenanted 
 by the gardener and which at the same time serves as 
 a repository for seeds, specimens, garden implements etc. 
 
 The Metz Antiquarian Collection is preserved 
 in a very handsome building a short distance beyond the 
 Karlsthor. It comprises a rich assortment of Antiquities 
 and curiosities of 'every kind. Open daily. Admission 18 kr.
 
 Educational Establishments and Schools. 37 
 
 Educational Establishments and Schools. 
 
 The Grand Ducal Lyceum, in the Grabengasse. 
 
 The Town High School, in the Kettengasse. 
 
 The Industrial School in the Kettengasse. 
 
 The United National and Industrial Schools. 
 The former Evangelical, Catholic and Jewish National schools 
 have been united into one mixed school, which was opened 
 May. 11. 1870. The school buildings are at the corner 
 of the Plockstrasse, directly facing St. Peter's Church. 
 
 The Infant School, in the Burgweg. 
 
 In addition to these there are a number of private, 
 educational establishments viz: for boys, those of Dr. Gas- 
 pey, Bergheimerstrasse, W. P. L. Bohm, Plockstrasse, Ch. 
 Philippe, Plockstrasse; for girls, those of W. J. Erhardt, 
 Theaterstrasse, The Misses Faller, Plockstrasse, and those 
 of Mesdames Theiss, Schupp, Lambeck, Gapellen&c. 
 
 Other institutions. 
 
 The Orphanage, to the left of the Burgweg, foun- 
 ded 1853. 
 
 The Town Savings Bank, open Wednesdays and 
 Fridays. 
 
 The Loan Office, east Hauptstrasse, open Monday, 
 Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday, from 8 to 12. 
 The Saving's Bank, for parishioners generally. 
 The Baths 32 and 94 Plockstrasse. 
 Swimming Baths for gentlemen, facing the Zim- 
 merplatz. 
 » » at the east end of the town. 
 
 » » for ladies, facing the Zimmerplatz. 
 
 Besides these there are a Riding School, Fen- 
 cing School, and Gymnasium. 
 
 Places of Entertainment. 
 
 The Museum, is situated in the Ludwigsplatz and 
 is the property of a society of shareholders, founded in 1828 
 for the purpose of promoting social amusement by con- 
 versation, readings, music and dancing. The building con-
 
 38 Places of Entertainment. 
 
 tains several saloons for conversation, together with dining- 
 rooms and very elegant and spacious dancing saloon. There 
 is also an excellent reading-room attached, which is con- 
 stantly supplied with all the principal political and scientific 
 journals of the day, newspapers and periodicals both home 
 and foreign. The members also enjoy the advantage of a 
 well-stocked library. 
 
 A number of balls are given annually by the members 
 of the club, who have the privilege of introducing a friend 
 to any one of the entertainments. Subscriptions may be 
 taken out by the month. 
 
 The Harmonie, a club similar to that of the Mu- 
 seum. Meetings are held in a house opposite the Court 
 of Baden, now the property of the Club, but which for- 
 merly belonged to Count Wieser, and the same in which 
 in 1685 the consort of the Elector Charles Ludwig with 
 her household, resided. In the newly-erected building at 
 the rear is the spacious dancing-saloon, the garden-saloon, 
 billiard and reading-rooms. Contiguous to this is a large 
 garden tastefully laid out, in which, during the fine summer 
 evenings, musical entertainments are given. 
 
 The Theatre. The expenses of its erection were 
 defrayed by voluntary contributions from the inhabitants 
 and by shares. It was commenced in the spring of 1853, 
 and in October of the same year the stage was thrown 
 open. Part of the decorations and machinery were the 
 gift of His Royal Highness the Grand Duke Frederick. The 
 town contributes annually 1500 fl. towards its support. 
 The interior is neatly fitted up and wears a certain air 
 of comfort : on the whole the house has fully answered 
 the expectations, which could reasonably be entertained 
 under the circumstances. The theatre is let on lease. The 
 lessee is bound to give the stipulated number of 72 per- 
 formances, to pay a rental of 600 fl. , besides providing 
 for the expenses of representation, heating and lighting 
 the building &c. The whole is under the direction of a 
 committee.
 
 Hotels, Cafes, Refreshment Rooms. 39 
 
 Hotels, Cafes, Refreshment Rooms. 
 
 First-Glass Hotels. Hotel Schrieder, Darmstadter 
 Hof, Bairischer Hof, Victoria Hotel, Hotel de l'Europe; all 
 near the station. Badischer Hof. Prinz Carl , Hotel Adler, 
 at the foot of the Schlossberg, and the Hotel de Hollande, 
 near the Bridge. 
 
 Second-class Hotels. The Ritter and Silberner 
 Hirsch both facing the Heiliggeistkirche ; Goldenes Herz, 
 in the Hauptstrasse, opposite the Kettengasse, The Reichs- 
 krone, near the river, and The Goldenes Ross in the Hay- 
 market. 
 
 G a f e - R e s t a u r a n t s : 
 
 Leers, Hauptstrasse west, Wachter, Falken, on 
 the market-place. Deuchler Kornmarkt. 
 
 Confectioners and Restaurants: 
 
 Helwerth, on the market place, Ritzhaupt, corner 
 of the Haspelgasse, Ammann, in the Hauptstrasse, oppo- 
 site the Augustinergasse, Lindauer, opposite the Theater- 
 strasse. Krall, corner of the Friedrichsstrasse. Helwerth, 
 at the other end of the same street. Rupp, Hauptstrasse 
 West.
 
 40 The Castle. 
 
 The Castle. 
 
 Wer blickt von holier Felsenstirn Du bist es, Heidelberger Schloss. 
 
 So keck hinab in's Thai? Du Kloinod unsrer Stadt! 
 
 Wer glanzt in weiter Feme bin Wir schauen dich und schauen dich 
 
 Im gold'nen Abendstrahl? Und seh'n uns niemals satt. 
 
 Wer ist's, der des Beschauers Blick stehe fest und wanke nicht, 
 
 So hehr entgegen lacbt? Trotz' kuhn dem Sturm der Zeit, 
 
 Wer zieht viel Tausend Wandrer an Damit die spat'ste Nachwelt noch 
 
 Mit ewig junger Pracht? An dir sich hoch erfreut. 
 
 Emil Otto. 
 
 The Castle is situated on a hill at the foot of the 
 Konigstuhl, at a height of 613 German feet above the 
 sea and 313 above the Neckar. It is built upon granite 
 rocks. It was begun by the Elector Rupert I in 1308 
 after the destruction of the ancient castle above, and from 
 that time continued without interruption to be the resi- 
 dence of the Electors Palatine. In the course of centuries 
 it has been fortified, enlarged and adorned according to 
 the taste or requirements of its royal occupants. During 
 the Thirty Years' War, it was several times laid siege to 
 and in consequence suffered considerably, but under Charles 
 Ludwig it was completely restored. In 1689 and 1693 this 
 magnificent building became a prey to the rapacious troops 
 of Louis XIV, who with characteristic barbarity, gave orders 
 for its destruction. Its ruins testify how faithfully his com- 
 mands were executed. It was subsequently put into par- 
 tial repair, but after the departure of Charles Philip — 
 who transferred his residence to Mannheim — the Castle 
 of Heidelberg ceased to be the abode of the rulers of the 
 Palatinate. The Elector Charles Theodore purposed taking 
 up his residence in the Castle , and orders had already 
 .been issued for its renovation, when in 1764 a portion of 
 it, near the Otto Heinrichsbau was struck by lightning, 
 which set fire to the interior as well as to the adjacent 
 buildings. This put an end to the work of restoration, 
 which has never been renewed. The statues and sculp-
 
 The Castle. 41 
 
 tares remaining in the Castle Garden, were transported 
 to Mannheim and Schwctzingen for the ornamentation of 
 the castles and gardens there. Since 1853 the Grand Ducal 
 Government has placed the whole of the ruins under the 
 care of a Castellan; a measure, which has gone far to put 
 a stop to the wilful damage and removal of portions of 
 the ruins. 
 
 There are two ways of gaining the Castle from the 
 town: viz: that from the Kornmarkt up the Burgweg, for 
 foot-passengers only. To the right of this path and on 
 the site at present occupied by the gardens attached to the 
 Bartholoma Brewery, formerly stood the residence of Clara 
 von Detten, the consort of Frederick the Victorious and 
 daughter of a nobleman of Augsburg. Their descendants 
 are the present princes of Lowenstein. Opposite this 
 garden stood the ancient Court of Chancery, which was 
 burnt down, but was re-built by Frederick the Victorious. 
 Opposite the brewery is a gate opening into a garden and 
 bearing the name »Waisenhaus« (Orphanage). In the wall 
 which bounds the path on the right, are various inscrip- 
 tions, all of which refer to the building or restoration of 
 the said wall. At the entrance of the fortifications erected 
 by the Elector Charles 1683, stands the old Watch — or 
 Guard-House, and above the keystone of the arch are the 
 armorial bearings of the Palatinate, surrounded by the Order 
 of the Garter. Passing through the first hall, we perceive 
 to the left the colossal walls of the citadel of Frederick 
 the Victorious, built 1455, and completed by his successors. 
 
 The other way to the Castle, which is also practi- 
 cable for carriages is by ascending the Schlossberg. On 
 reaching the summit, we pass over the ancient bridge into 
 the Castle Garden. To the right, and opposite the Bridge- 
 House are the ruins of the castle stables. The bridge, gate, 
 and square tower are of hewn freestone, and were erected 
 by LudwigV, 1541. Above the arch are the rudely-exe- 
 cuted figures of two esquires supporting the escutcheon 
 of the Palatinate (date 1556). 
 
 Entering the Court-yard, the first building to the left, 
 that is to say, on the west, is the Ruprechtsbau, which 
 contains the oldest portions of the Castle. The Elector 
 Rupert III 1398—1410, found the ancient castle too small
 
 42 The Castle. 
 
 for him as Emperor of Germany, and caused the structure 
 to be added, which now bears his name. On the north 
 side, the German imperial eagle and the arms of the Pa- 
 latinate and Bavaria may still be seen in good preservation. 
 Under Frederick V. 1545. the Ruprechtsbau underwent 
 considerable improvements. Near Ruperts' eagle he caused 
 a slab to be inserted, on which were engraved the arms 
 of the electors Palatine and underneath, the inscription: 
 
 Tausend vierhundert Jar man zelt Als pfalzgraf Ruprecht wart erwelt 
 Zu Romscheni kong un hat regirt Uff zehen Jar darjn volfirt 
 Dis hause welches pfaltzgraf Ludwig. Erneuert hat wiess stedt lustig 
 Der jm vier and viertzigsten jar. Funffzehn hundert auch fiirwar 
 Uss disser welt verschieden ist. Ir baider seln pfleg Jesus Christ. 
 
 Amen. 
 
 The keystone of the arch bears an allegorical design, 
 representing two youthful genii holding a wreath with a 
 pair of compasses in the centre: the signification of this 
 remains a mystery. Some have supposed it to symbolize 
 Unity. The wreath encircling the compasses was perhaps 
 a mark of honour and distinction in the noble art of ar- 
 chitecture, and may have had reference to the restoration 
 of the building by Frederick. Passing under the arched 
 doorway, we see to the left, a hall decorated with stained- 
 glass windows, and containing a collection of antiquities, 
 which were for the most part found within the precincts 
 of the castle. To the rear of the first hall is a stair lea- 
 ding through an octagonal turret to the upper story, 
 where are the ruins of the Grand Hall of the Knights. A 
 marble chimney-piece, with the arms of the Pfalz and of 
 Denmark, is all that remains to testify to the ancient splen- 
 dour of this apartment, whose walls have so often echoed 
 to the boisterous revelry of court banquets, or the wedding 
 festivities of princes and nobles. 
 
 The consort of Frederick II, Dorothea, was a Danish 
 princess; whence the busts of the king and queen of 
 Denmark, Christian and Isabella, in this apartment, as also 
 those of the emperor Charles V and his consort Isabella, 
 with laurel wreath. On the inside of the jambs of the 
 chimney-piece are the busts of Frederick and Dorothea, and 
 beneath the Danish arms, the still legible inscription: 
 
 SEIN GEMAHL YON KONIGLICHEM STAMM 
 
 FKAW DOROTHEA IST IR NAM 
 
 GEPORN PEINCESSIN AUS DENMARKH 
 
 NORWEGEN, SWEDEN DREI KONGREICH STARCK.
 
 The Castle. 43 
 
 In the hall looking towards the Stuckgarten, Frederick 
 the Victorious entertained the princes taken prisoner by 
 him at the battle of Scckenheim . and through the open 
 window he showed them the plain, with the smoke still 
 rising from the villages they had burned and devastated. 
 
 To the right of the Ruprechtsbau and standing some- 
 what farther back, its front adorned with a Gothic balcony, 
 is the ruin known as the 
 
 Alte Bau 
 
 This is the most ancient portion of the castle, and 
 the whole style of the interior proclaims its great age. 
 Before it once stood a fountain, ornamented with the figure 
 of a lion and the arms of the Pfalz, The large slabs of 
 stone which formed part of the basin still remain. In the 
 Alte Bau was enacted the terrible scene which caused the 
 premature death of Ludwig IV. 
 
 The circumstances were as follows. The brother of 
 the Elector Louis IV. Frederick, subsequently known as 
 Frederick the Victorious, had on several occasions defeated 
 and reduced to submission, the unruly Counts of Lutzen- 
 stein, who were vassals of the Palatinate, and whose pos- 
 sessions lay in what is now the province of Alsace. These 
 noblemen had a sister, Eleonora, Countess of Liitzenstein, 
 a lady of surpassing beauty and maid of honour to the 
 Electress. Thirsting for revenue [lie brothers, who were 
 both members of the Vehmgericht, accused Frederick be- 
 fore that dread tribunal, and his ruin was resolved upon. 
 Both the Confessor of the Elector and Eleonora von Liitzen- 
 stein were admitted into the conspiracy. At dead of night, 
 Eleonora disguised as the Virgin Mary, softly entered the 
 apartment of Ludwig, and standing by his bedside, solemnly 
 pronounced his name aloud thrice! Roused from his slum- 
 ber, the prince opened his eves. Horror seized him on 
 beholding a figure draped in while and with a halo about 
 its head, standing at his bed-side! The spectre announced 
 to the trembling Ludwig. that his brother Frederick had 
 sold himself to the Evil One, but that she — the Virgin 
 — had exorcised the fiend, whom she now summoned to 
 appear. Hereupon, the Confessor, enveloped in a hideons
 
 44 The Castle. 
 
 mask to represent the Devil , rushed howling into the 
 apartment and threw himself at the spectre's feet. 
 
 The prince's horror being at the extreme, two knights 
 arrayed in sable armour and with daggers drawn, strode 
 into the apartment and demanded that he should instantly 
 lead them to the couch of his wicked brother, on whom 
 the holy Vehm tribunal had pronounced sentence of death. 
 Half dead with fright, * and trembling in every limb , the 
 unhappy prince was compelled to take a lamp, and lead 
 the way to the apartment of his brother Frederick. The 
 latter, however, had been warned that plots were contri- 
 ving against his life, and as a measure of precaution, had 
 retained two of his friends, the knights of Gemmingen and 
 Geispitzheim near his person. Headed by his Satanic Majesty, 
 the hobgoblin crew entered the room where Frederick was 
 sleeping, and made towards his couch, when suddenly the 
 watchful Gemmingen sprang upon them sword in hand, 
 and undismaged by the menacing gestures of the diaboli- 
 cal mask, seized the pretended devil in his powerful grasp 
 and hurled him with violence to the ground! Then with 
 a single stroke of his heavy sword he severed the head 
 of the unhappy wretch from his body ! Meanwhile Geispitz- 
 heim, and Frederick, awaked by the noise, flew to their 
 arms, and the conspirators seeing that all was lost , beat 
 a hasty retreat down the staircase, and fled from the Castle. 
 
 The diabolical mask being torn off, disclosed to view 
 the well-known features of the father confessor , and the 
 Elector saw that what had occasioned him such mortal 
 terror, was nothing more or less than an attempt on his 
 brother's life. 
 
 In 1415 the unhappy Pope John XXIII w 7 as a captive 
 within these walls. The circumstances of his imprisonment 
 have been related above. From Heidelberg he was con- 
 ducted to Mannheim where he also long remained a priso- 
 ner. — Adjoining the Alte Bau is the 
 
 Old Chapel 
 
 Founded by Rupert I 1346, and consecrated by Udal- 
 rich the Reverend Archbishop of Augsburg. It was consi- 
 dered one of the richest in Germany. During the lapse
 
 CD 
 
 \j
 
 The Castle. 45 
 
 of centuries, it underwent various alterations , and , prior 
 to the erection of the Friedrichs Bau , was much larger ; 
 reaching as far as the north gate of the Castle. It con- 
 sisted of two stories. In the lower was the Chapel proper, 
 and in the upper, a spacious hanqueting-hall, adorned with 
 statues after the manner of the other palatial residences 
 belonging to the Castle. After the destruction of the castle 
 by the French, the upper story was pulled down, the lower 
 covered with a roof, and used as a cooperage. The Chapel 
 has now again been put into order, and from the Gothic 
 windows, a fine view into the valley may be obtained. 
 
 In this building (now called Ruprechtshalle) the Com- 
 munion was first administered in both kinds (1551). In 
 1535 and again in 1671, the nuptials of a Count Palatine 
 and a princess of Denmark were solemnized here, on which 
 occasions the Chapel was decorated with costly hangings, 
 silver candelabra, canopies, etc. : all in the most sumptuous 
 manner, and upwards of 4000 guests are said to have 
 been present. 
 
 Beneath the Chapel is the entrance to the cellar con- 
 taining the Great Tun of which we shall speak farther on. 
 
 Facing the entrance from the Castle Gardens, and on 
 the north side of the courtyard, rises the stately 
 
 Friedrichs Bau 
 
 named after its founder, the Elector Frederick IV. It was 
 begun 1601 and completed in 1607. The lower part contains 
 the new chapel, in which Divine Service was held 1804 
 for the last time. The upper apartments were inhabited 
 by the Elector and his consort. Here are at present the 
 collections of oil-paintings and antiquities of Count von 
 Graimberg, who generosly undertook their renovation , as 
 well as their arrangement in the different apartments, at 
 his own expense. The collection consists of above 2000 
 oil and water-colour paintings, 900 drawings , upwards of 
 2000 copper-plate engravings, and variety of ancient coins, do- 
 cuments from the ninth century downwards, together with 
 a large number of sculptures; household furinture and 
 utensils — all of which are connected with the records 
 of the Castle and the history of tiie rulers of the land,
 
 40 
 
 The Castle. 
 
 past and present. It is open daily, and no stranger should 
 leave tbe spot, without paying it a visit, for an insight 
 into the history of this majestic ruin is alone capable of 
 lending it real interest in the eyes of a thoughtful ob- 
 server. 
 
 There is a full description of the collection, to which 
 is appended a copious catalogue for the use of visitors. In 
 one of the apartments is Meder's Exhibition of Works of 
 Art, comprising oil-paintings , sketches , etc. of the Town, 
 Castle, and Environs. The entrance is from the Courtyard, 
 under the arcades. 
 
 Along the facade of Frederick the Fourth's Palace, 
 and fronting the Courtyard, are ranged the statues of the 
 ancestors of the royal house of the Palatinate. Some of 
 them were unfortunately damaged by cannon shot in 1633. 
 Commencing above, from the left hand, their order is as 
 follows : 
 
 Carolus magnus 
 
 814 
 
 5 
 
 Ludovicus 
 
 imperator 
 
 1390 
 
 9 
 
 Eupertus Sen. 
 
 1390 
 
 13 
 
 Fridericus 
 pius 
 1576 
 
 OttoWittelsbach 
 1183 
 
 6 
 
 Eupertus 
 
 rex Rom. 
 
 1410 
 
 10 . 
 Fridericus 
 
 Victoriosus 
 
 1476 
 
 14 
 
 Ludovicus 
 
 1583 
 
 o 
 
 Ludovicus 
 
 1213 
 
 7 
 
 Otto Rex 
 
 Hungariae 
 
 1512 
 
 11 
 
 Fridericus II. 
 
 1556 
 
 15 
 
 Johann 
 
 Casiniir 
 
 1592 
 
 Rudolphus 
 
 1319 
 
 8 
 
 Christoph 
 
 Rex Daniae 
 
 1539 
 
 12 
 
 Otto 
 
 Henricus 
 
 1559 
 
 16 
 
 Fridericus IV. 
 
 1607 
 
 Altogether, the style of this palace is heavy and ba- 
 roque, and does not produce a pleasing effect upon the 
 beholder. At the foot of the Friedrichs Bau, to the left, 
 is the entrance into the cellar, in which 
 
 The Great Tun 
 
 is preserved. This famous tun was constructed in 1751 
 by the court-butler Engler , for the Elector Charles Theo- 
 dore, the original tun of 1591, having become unfit for
 
 E1S FASS .
 
 The Castle. 47 
 
 use. It is larger than the foregoing, and is capable of con- 
 taining 236 Fucier, or 236,000 bottles. This monster cask 
 
 is strengthened with 8 iron and 18 wooden hoops. The 
 tools used in its construction, hang on the walls of the 
 cellar — a lasting memorial of the great work. 
 
 Close by is a wooden statue of Clemens Perkeo , a 
 Tyrolese dwarf., who was court jester to Charles Philip. 
 He lived in the year 1720, is said to have been able to 
 drink 15 bottles of wine a day, and moreover not to have 
 been destitute of mental cultivation and acquirements. Near 
 his statue, concealed in a little box on the wall is the 
 symbol of his office, which emerges somewhat suddenly on 
 pressing the spring below. Passing through the Friedrichs 
 Bau we come out upon the 
 
 Grand Terrace, 
 
 which affords a magnificent prospect of the Neckar valley 
 and the plain of the Rhine. This terrace, with the rampart 
 below, which is now brilliant with gardens , are also the 
 work of Frederick IV, 1610. 
 
 Returning into the courtyard, we perceive on the rigid 
 and near the Friedrichsbau, the so-called. 
 
 New Court of Frederick II, 
 
 It will easily be recognized by the three rows ef arcades, 
 one above the other, the bottom row of which is decora- 
 ted with the armorial bearings of Denmark and the Pfalz. 
 It dates from 1549 , and extends between the lofty octa- 
 gonal tower and the Otto-Heinrichsbau. Viewed from the 
 outside, it is easily recognisable by a handsome balcony 
 on the east, looking down into the valley. The site 
 is said formerly to have been occupied by an ancient 
 stronghold, called the Schlierburg , and earlier still, by a 
 Roman castle. 
 
 On the east side of the courtyard, rises that chef 
 d'oeuvre of architecture, the magnificent
 
 48 The Castle. 
 
 Otto-Heinrichsbau, 
 
 begun by the elector Otto Heinrich, 1556. The design of 
 this stately palace, which is built in the Italian style, is 
 said to have been furnished by Michael Angelo- The nu- 
 merous statues with which the side fronting the courtyard 
 is embellished , represent subjects taken from Scripture, 
 Roman history, and mythology. They are of exquisite finish, 
 and bear ample testimony to the consummate genius of 
 the artist. The four figures, which support the entablature 
 above the portal, are pronounced by connoisseurs to be 
 particularly felicitous, both in attitude and expression. Above 
 the arched entrance is the following inscription »Otto 
 Heinrich, von Gottes Gnaden Pfalzgraf bei Rhein, des heil. 
 Romisch Reichs Ertzdruchsess und Ghurfiirst, Herzog in 
 Nieder- und Ober-Bayern« (Otto Henry, by the grace of 
 God Count Palatine of the Rhein, Archduke and Elector 
 of the Holy Roman Empire, Duke of Upper and Lower 
 Bavaria), and above, the armorial bearings of the Palati- 
 nate, supported by two beautiful Karyatiden — detached 
 pillars surmounted by a female bust, as supporters of the 
 entablature and to the left and right the figures of men 
 in conflict with lions — an allusion to the combats of the 
 Lion of the Palatinate with his enemies. 
 
 The lower range of statues, beginning from the left 
 hand, represent: Joshua, Samson, Hercules and Da- 
 vid. The rhymes below the figures are insignificant. In 
 the centre row are allegorical personifications of Strength, 
 Faith, Love, Hope, Justice; in the third row ; Saturn, 
 Mars, Venus, Mercury and Diana; while above all the 
 rest, stands, on the left. Pluto, and on the right, Ju- 
 piter. 
 
 Entering the building, we have to the left: The Im- 
 perial, or Knight's Hall, and facing us, the Hall of Audience : 
 adjoining these, a range of lofty apartments. What remains, 
 though in ruins , still bears traces of the splendour of 
 other days. The walls and panels are richly adorned with 
 sculptures, for the most part , in a good state of preser- 
 vation. In the right of the Otto-Heinrichsbau, as seen from 
 the courtyard, stands
 
 3 
 X
 
 The Castle. 49 
 
 The Ludwigsbau 
 
 Built by the Elector Ludwig V, 1524. Above the entrance 
 is his escutcheon with the date 1524. Within, a winding- 
 stair leads to the octagonal tower above. To the right of 
 this building and partly bounding the courtyard on the east 
 and south, stand the offices and outhouses built by Lud- 
 wig V, 1508. The tall chimney, which towers high above 
 the ruins, is still in a good state of preservation. Traces 
 of the huge fireplace are also distinctly visible. The sou- 
 thern portion is still habitable and is occupied by the te- 
 nant to whom the whole is let. 
 
 On entering the courtyard from the garden, our atten- 
 tion is arrested by the great castle-well, on the right, The 
 superstructure is supported by four detached granite pillars, 
 which, by order of Ludwig V, were transported hither from 
 the ruins of the Palace of Charlemagne, at Ingelheim, where 
 they had remained for centuries , buried beneath the rub- 
 bish. They are all that are left of the hundred pillars 
 presented to Charlemagne by the cities of Rome and Ra- 
 venna. 
 
 Beyond the well, and more towards the centre of the 
 courtyard, is the fountain erected by Frederick IV in 1607. 
 About the same time, that portion of the courtyard rising 
 towards the Otto-Heinrichsbau, was enclosed with a wall 
 of freestone. This hill was formerly adorned with a statue 
 of Mercury, and a Roman altar, which had been dug up 
 in the neighbourhood. Let us now leave the courtyard, and 
 take a view of the Castle from the outside. 
 
 The Blown-up Tower 
 
 was built by Frederick the Victorious, 1455. In 1544 it 
 was connected with the square watch-tower by means of 
 a lofty wall of hewn freestone. It measures 82 feet in 
 diameter, and the walls are 20 feet in thickness. In 1610 
 an octagonal superstructure was added , and the ancient 
 pointed roof replaced by one in the shape of a dome. In 
 1689 the French general Melac gave orders for it to be 
 blown up. This was done. The massive structure was 
 
 4
 
 50 The Castle. 
 
 rent asunder by the shock , half of it was left standing 
 upright, while the other half sank down obliquely in one 
 solid mass, and remains to the present day, an object of 
 astonishment and admiration to the beholder. Entrance to 
 the tower is gained from the courtyard. At the foot of 
 this ruin is a spring of excellent water, the resort on fine 
 spring mornings of many who come to quench their thirst 
 or fortify their constitutions, and certain it is, that a daily 
 draught of this invigorating beverage, combined with the 
 pure air and the walk up from the town, must be emi- 
 nently calculated to preserve the »Mens sana in corpore 
 sano«. The adjoining well-house was built by the elector 
 Charles Theodore, 1767, and bears an inscription in Latin 
 to the effect: »that the said elector erected the house and 
 that the water was pronounced, by the sovereign princess 
 Elisabeth Augusta, to be »a new nectar of health « 
 
 The Round or Library Tower 
 
 was erected by Frederick II, 1555, and by his directions 
 the Library was placed here , whence its name of The 
 Library Tower. On the exterior of the north side may be 
 seen the arms of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. It was 
 destroyed by fire in 1693, partially restored 1716, and 
 again burnt out 1763. 
 
 The Octagonal Tower 
 
 was begun by the elector Ludwig in 1524, and was ori- 
 ginally circular in form : the upper octagonal portion being 
 added by Frederick II, 1550, and provided with a large bell, 
 whence the whole came to be called The Bell Tower. 
 Having fallen into decay, it was in 1608 put into repair 
 and arched over with stone. During the Thirty Years' 
 War it sustained considerable damage and was again re- 
 stored by Charles Ludwig, 1659. In 1693 it was destroyed 
 by the French, was again renovated in 1716, until in the 
 year 1764, it took fire, and the heat of the flames melted 
 the great bell. The armoury, built 1455, by Frederick the 
 Victorious, stood at the foot of this tower, where its vast
 
 
 
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 V'iH 
 
 
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 ^Hb 
 
 JK* 
 
 - 
 
 
 a ^Kjfl^^9|ajj^pwi^^n 
 
 HfiB E 
 
 
 
 fe^<J^ 
 
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 Ef" 
 
 * ^-•■.-,1 
 
 ij$^|!|| 
 
 
 
 QE1SPRENGTER THURM
 
 The Castle. 51 
 
 walls may yet be traced. It is still possible to ascend the 
 Bell Tower. The entrance is from the courtyard. 
 
 The Stiickgarten. 
 
 Is situated on the ramparts, and is now laid out as 
 a garden, with broad walks shaded by tall lime-trees. The 
 entrance to it is by the Elisabeththor, an elegant structure, 
 adorned with some good specimens of sculpture, and erec- 
 ted in 1615 by the elector Frederick II, in honour of his 
 consort, Elisabeth of England. The garden rests on the 
 tremendous rampart raised by Ludwig V in 1526, and which 
 is pierced with numerous subterranean passages. From the 
 Big Tower, as well as from the moat, it is possible to 
 enter these gloomy labyrinths, but only for a short distance, 
 as they are for the most part choked up with rubbish. 
 They have on this account, been only partially explored. 
 Probably they served to connect the Big Tower in the 
 Englische Bau with the large circular buttress in the Stiick- 
 garten. where the seats are now placed. At the rear of 
 the garden, stands a stone, which records, that the elector 
 Charles in 1681, whilst engaged in artillery practice, per- 
 formed the extraordinary feat of hitting a cannon-ball, which 
 had been placed as a mark. From the Stiickgarten, there 
 is an exceedingly beautiful view of the opening of the 
 Neckar valley, and of the plain of the Rhine as far as 
 Mannheim. Behind the Stiickgarten, and communicating 
 with it by a door, rises 
 
 The Big Tower 
 
 which terminates the defences of the north side. This 
 work was completed by Ludwig V, 1533. Its walls are 20 
 feet thick, and it originally measured 90 feet in diameter. 
 The elector Frederick V caused its height to be increased 
 to 270 feet, and had a new dining-hall, 80 feet wide, built 
 within its walls. In 1681, the pleasure-seeking elector 
 Charles, who hated every kind of serious occupation, con- 
 trived a theatre within this tower, and himself took part 
 in the plays which where performed here by the ladies 
 and gentlemen of his court. From the dense masses of
 
 52 The Castle, 
 
 ivy, with which this ruin is overgrown, look down from 
 the niches in which they stand, the venerable statues of 
 two electors: Ludwig V, with the characteristic long beard 
 and wearing the electoral hat; and Frederick V, who was 
 in 1619, chosen king of Bohemia. Between these statues 
 is a Latin inscription, which records, that the tower was 
 built 1533 by Ludwig, Elector and Count Palatine, that 
 the elector Frederick, Vicar of the Roman Empire, caused 
 the upper portion, as far as the plinth to be pulled down 
 and carried up anew, that he also increased the height of 
 the dining-hall by 33 feet and caused the pillars which 
 supported the roof, to be taken out without injuring the 
 same, 1619. In 1689 the Big Tower was blown up by 
 command of the French general Melac. Near this work 
 and connecting it on the east with the castle, stands that 
 portion of the ruins, known as 
 
 The Englische Bau, 
 
 erected by Frederick V, 1612, in honour of his royal consort 
 Elisabeth, daughter of James I ol England and grand-daughter 
 of Mary, Queen of Scots. It fell into ruins at the same 
 time as the Big Tower, 1689. The small round tower to 
 the left of the Stuckgarten, was built by Ludwig V, 1541. 
 
 The numerous defences by which the Castle is sur- 
 rounded , have been erected in the course of centuries, 
 and have undergone continual alterations : in some instances 
 complete renovation. The last to be raised were those 
 through which the visitor first passes, on entering the 
 Castle from the Burgweg. Immediately opposite the first 
 doorway, stand the ruins of the old watch-tower; further 
 to the north and east are the works raised by the elector 
 Charles, 1681, and which may be recognized by their walls 
 of fine hewn freestone, and by the vaulted embrasures, 
 with here a detached sentry-box built of stone. At the 
 extreme north-east angle of these works, formerly stood a 
 circular tower, called the Karlsthurm. 
 
 The visitor to the castle, after having viewed it from 
 the outside, should not neglect to inspect the interior also, 
 and by beginning with the more ancient portions of the
 
 The Castle. 53 
 
 ruins, and then passing on to those of comparatively mo- 
 dern date, trace the gradual progress and development of 
 architecture as here illustrated. 
 
 An intelligent guide will call attention to many inte- 
 resting historical associations connected with the castle, for 
 which we cannot find space in this little book. The moats 
 and ditches , the batteries and subterranean passages are 
 now rendered easy of access, and a portion of the north 
 side has been tastefully ornamented with pleasure-gardens. 
 On one of the northern ramparts, is the grave of an English 
 colonel, named Fulco Houncks, who was in the Swedish 
 service, and who, together with his sergeant Abraham 
 Meppel, fell whilst gallantly aiding in the defence of the 
 Castle against the Imperialists, 1653. Many human skele- 
 tons have been dug up at this spot, doubtless those of 
 Swedish soldiers, who fell during the siege. 
 
 The Castle Garden. 
 
 Part of the present site was once occupied by the 
 Zoological Gardens of the Electors. In 1613, Frederick V 
 gave orders to the court architect , Salomon de Caus, for 
 the laying out a garden here; a task involving far more 
 labour on the part of the architect than on that of the 
 gardener, as, in order to secure level space, terraces 
 without number had to be constructed. The new garden 
 was richly adorned with statues , fountains and grottoes, 
 and could even boast of an orangery containing 430 trees. 
 This was covered in every winter, and artificial heat kept 
 up. At the east end of the garden are still standing the 
 ruins of the large grotto, with all kinds of animals carved 
 in stone, together with a rude figure of the Rhine God, 
 which formerly reposed in the centre of a fish-pond before 
 the grotto. At the eastern extremity of the terraced walk, 
 running parallel to the wall, rises a lofty arch, now wal- 
 led up, but which used to be the entrance to a deep re- 
 cess or niche, containing a spring, with a statue of Neptune. 
 Above, stood the colossal statue of Frederick V. At the 
 opposite extremity of this path are the ruins of a long 
 range of arched recesses, which formerly served as -grottoes, 
 baths, vivaries. &c. The finest part of the garden is The 
 Great Terrace, built on gigantic arches. The view from
 
 54 The Castle. 
 
 here, embraces the Castle, Town, the plain of the Rhine, 
 with the distant peaks beyond, all of which lie stretched 
 out as in a map. The garden did not escape the general 
 destruction that overtook the castle at the hands of the 
 merciless French, 1693. After this it was left wild and 
 desolate for many a long year. At length, in 1804, the 
 elector Charles Frederick gave orders for it to be restored 
 on a new plan. Since his time, it has undergone no ma- 
 terial alteration. Here and there, traces of the ancient 
 garden are still visible; for example, the venerable limes 
 in the Stiickgarten, the three rows of ancient yoke-elms 
 behind the refreshment-rooms, together with indications of 
 avenues, mazes, &c. &c. 
 
 On the small terrace opposite the Blown — up Tower 
 stands the Restaurant, which was built in 1865. The accom- 
 modation is good and the charges are moderate. From 
 this terrace the visitor overlooks the eastern part of the 
 ruins; the massive tower of Frederick the Victorious, and 
 near it the tall chimney of the ancient kitchen; part of 
 the palace of Ludwig V, the Library Tower with its many 
 windows, the rear of the Otto-Heinricbsbau, the new palace 
 of Frederick II, and the Octagonal Tower. There they 
 stand; the labour and the pride of many centuries, silently 
 mouldering into the dust from whence they sprung. The 
 hand of Nature, however, never at rest, has enwrapped 
 them in a mantle of ivy and bright green foliage, as if to 
 shield them from the violence of man. 
 
 A tradition still lingers among the vulgar, that, buried 
 beneath these ruins, lie the secret chambers of that ter- 
 rible tribunal, called the Vehmgericht, as also a mysterious 
 vaulted cave, said to be adorned with sculptures of extra- 
 ordinary beauty. Setting aside the many stories of secret 
 caves and treasures, it is still far from improbable that, 
 in the dark dephts of the countless inaccessible, and un- 
 explored passages with which these vast ruins abound, many 
 a venerable relic of the past, yet lies hidden. 
 
 Tickets for seeing the interior of the Castle, The Great Tun 
 etc. may be had at the office in the courtyard, to the right of 
 the entrance to the grand terrace. The prices are: For 1 Person 
 30 kr. Two. 48 kr. Three or more 18 kr. each. For the Great 
 Tun alone: 1 Person 6 kr. Three or more 3 kr. each. Children 
 under ten years of age are admitted free.
 
 SB
 
 The Molkenkur. 55 
 
 The Environs. 
 
 Leaving the Castle garden, and ascending the carriage 
 road to the left, a walk of twenty minutes brings us to the 
 
 Molkenkur, 
 
 which may also be reached from the Castle, by following 
 the footpath known as the Friesenweg. At the top, there 
 is a good inn, and attached to it, an establishment for the 
 cure of certain maladies by the use of Molken or whey, 
 whence the name Molkenkur or Whey Cure. The view 
 from this point is beautiful in the extreme. Directly oppo- 
 site, rises the Heiligenberg with its ruined convent plainly 
 visible, while beyond it and away to the east, stretch the 
 pine-clad summits of the Odenwald. To the west, lies a 
 deep wooded gorge, varied occasionally with huge masses 
 of rock of the most fantastic forms, and intersected with 
 romantic paths ; and away beyond, a vast expanse of plain, 
 dotted with villages and hamlets, and threaded by the win- 
 ding streams of the Rhine and Neckar; while, bounding 
 the horizon, rise the shadowy peaks of the Haardgebirge. 
 Below us, and on the lowest spur of the hill on which we 
 are standing, the ruined Castle stands out in bold relief, 
 and lower still , extending in a long line parallel to the 
 Neckar, lies the town of Heidelberg. Opposite, the pretty 
 villas ofNeunheim, backed with vineyards innumerable : the 
 whole forming a panorama that well repays the fatigue of 
 the ascent. 
 
 According to authentic tradition, there stood, in the 
 fifth century, at the eastern extremity of this hill, and on 
 the site of a Roman castle, the fortified dwelling of a Fran- 
 conian duchess, named Jetta, who, by her charity and be- 
 nevolence , endeared herself to the simple inhabitants of 
 the valley. Her memory still lives among the peasant-folk, 
 and tradition has transformed her into a sorceress. Long 
 afterwards, this castle on the Jettenbuhl, as it was called, 
 was bequeathed by his father, to Conrad, Duke of Swabia,
 
 56 The Molkenkur. 
 
 brother of the Emperor Frederick I, surnamed Redbeard. 
 On being made Count Palatine, he took up his residence 
 here, 1155. Secure in his castle of the Jettabiihl, he ru- 
 led with a powerful hand, his vast possessions , extending 
 far down the Rhine. Often would he sally forth at the 
 head of his warlike bands, and having reduced the enemy 
 to submission , return in triumph , enriched by new con- 
 cessions of territory. Here too he received the visit of his 
 imperial brother and accompanied him with a brilliant re- 
 tinue to Italy. The nuptials of his daughter Agnes — 
 deemed one of the most beautiful and richest heiresses of 
 her time — with Duke Henry of Brunswick , took place 
 in this mountain fortress. Conrad of Hohenstaufen, the 
 first Palsgrave of that line, and the founder of Heidelberg, 
 terminated his eventful life here. After him his successors 
 Henry the Elder and Younger of the House of Brunswick, 
 the Elector Louis I, and his son Otto the Illustrious, suc- 
 cessively inhabited the old castle. Henry VII, King of the 
 Germans, having rebelled against his father, the emperor 
 Frederick II, was by him (1236) entrusted to the keeping 
 of the Count Palatine Otto Henry, who caused him to be 
 incarcerated here, where he remained a prisoner until led 
 away into Italy. Ludwig II, surnamed the Severe, who 
 from motives of jealousy had caused his innocent consort, 
 Maria of Brabant , to be executed at Donauwerth , was 
 residing here, when the castle was destroyed by fire, 1278. 
 He caused it to be restored, but only imperfectly, and ex- 
 pired here, 1296, in the very same room in which he had 
 been born. Owing to the ruinous state in which portions 
 of the castle still remained, his successors seldom chose it 
 as their place of residence, but began to lay the foundations 
 of the present castle on the hill below. It however still 
 continued to be used as an armoury and powder-magazine 
 for more than two hundred years afterwards, until on the 
 25th. of April 1537, between 3 and 4 in the afternoon 
 during a heavy thunderstorm, a flash of lightning struck 
 the old tower, which at the time was full of powder. So 
 violent was the explosion that followed, that beams and 
 stones were hurled into the town below, doors were un- 
 hinged, and windows shattered. Of the old castle itself, 
 scarcely one stone was left standing upon another. The
 
 The newAnlage. — The new Cemetery. 57 
 
 warder, with his wife and child were blown to atoms, and 
 many people in the town were killed by the falling ruins. 
 For a long time the place lay solitary and deserted, until 
 in the year 1544, the elector Frederick II caused a sum- 
 mer-house to be built there , every vestige of which has 
 however disappeared , probably during the Thirty Years' 
 War. In 1621, some forts were built here, which Tilly 
 several times vainly attempted to storm, and in 1634 the 
 Imperialists posted several batteries of artillery on the height, 
 from whence they bombarded the castle below. Since that 
 time, the place remained deserted until as before remar- 
 ked, it again came into notice, and the present inn was 
 built, 1853. The tourist should, if the evening be clear, 
 remain to watch the sunset — a spectacle, that, once wit- 
 nessed, will never be forgotten by the lover of nature. 
 
 The New Anlage, 
 
 which also bears the names of Leopoldstrasse and Sophien- 
 strasse, extends from the Klingenthor to the railway-station, 
 and from thence to the Neckar, opposite Neuenheim. Space 
 for it was gained by the removal of the last remains of 
 the ancient fortifications, and by draining a swamp, which 
 had been formed by the overflowing and neglect of the 
 ancient moat. The laying-out of this charming promenade, 
 with its fine avenue of chestnut, pleasant garden &c. has 
 been an inestimable boon to the inhabitants. 
 
 The New Cemetery- 
 is situated to the left of the Rohrbach Road, at about a 
 quarter of an hour's walk from the town. It stands on 
 a gentle rising-ground, just at the foot of the long range 
 of hills which form the eastern boundary of the Rhine 
 plain. The summit of the rising-ground is adorned with a 
 small but neat chapel; below is the cemetery, which is 
 very prettily and tastefully laid out. Among the numerous 
 monuments are some fine specimens of sculpture. Since the 
 opening of the New Cemetery (1844), interments in the 
 churchyards within the town have ceased entirely. If on 
 leaving, we follow the same road by which we came, to-
 
 58 The Waterfall, The Pulpit, Giant's Stone, Trutzkaiser. 
 
 wards the hills, we shall arrive at The Valley of the Three 
 Troughs, whence a gradually ascending path leads to the 
 Speyerer or Neuhof, of which we shall speak further on. 
 
 i 
 
 The Waterfall, The Pulpit, Giant's Stone, 
 Trutzkaiser. 
 
 From the Klingenthor, there are a number of roman- 
 tic paths leading to these points. To begin with the Water- 
 fall. Starting from the Klingenthor, an easy ascent of from 
 5 to 10 minutes brings us to it and here, if so disposed, 
 the visitor can repose himself, there being no lack of seats. 
 The Waterfall is artificial. Huge blocks of stone are piled 
 one above the other, and aided by a few tastefully-disposed 
 groups of trees, the effect is pretty in the extreme. Un- 
 fortunately, in dry seasons it often occurs that there is very 
 little water and then of course the fall is a failure. The 
 expenses of its construction were borne by a Society in 
 Heidelberg, which has already expended considerable sums 
 in the adornment and improvement of the environs. Above 
 the Waterfall, the carriage-road branches to the right and 
 left, that to the right leading past the great stone-quarry 
 to the Kanzel or Pulpit, a sort of balcony, built on a pro- 
 jection of the steep rocky wall, and affording a fine view 
 of the town and surrounding country. Just below is the 
 Riesenstein or Giant's Stone , a huge crag, which excites 
 the interest of the stranger, poised as it is on a small 
 fragment of rock. From the Kanzel, a narrow footpath leads 
 to the Riesenstein, and lower down, to the public-house 
 bearing the sign of the Riesenstein, and much frequented 
 on Sundays. Continuing along the carriage-road beyond 
 the Kanzel, the eye enjoys a succession of beautiful views, 
 varying with every turn of the road. An easy walk of ten 
 minutes from the Kanzel, brings us to a second projection 
 of the hill, from which there is a magnificent and very 
 extensive view, embracing the valley, town and castle, part 
 of the Bergstrasse and the plain of the Rhine, with the 
 distant range of the Haardgebirge. 
 
 From this point, the carriage-road ascends to the Speyerer- 
 hof. Let us, however, first follow the path to the right, 
 which leads downwards. A descent of five minutes brings
 
 Speyerer- or Xeu-Hof. — Rohrbach 59 
 
 us to a sort of promontory, where the path again divides, 
 that to the left leading out into the Rohrbach Road near 
 the Cemetery, while that to the right, winding through 
 the Wolfsschlucht or Wolfs Ravine, runs out into the 
 Anlage, just beside the Victoria Hotel. To return to the 
 promontory where these paths separate. There is a fine 
 view of the plain, and on a clear day, the dome of the 
 Cathedral of Speyer is distinctly visible. Just below, for- 
 merly stood the Trutzkaiser, built by Frederick the Victo- 
 rious, and demolished by Tilly. 
 
 We will now suppose, that instead of descending, we 
 had followed the carriage-road, which it will be remem- 
 bered, led upwards. After winding along the slope of the 
 hill, through shady woods, and then across a ravine span- 
 ned by a low bridge of red sandstone, this road bears to 
 the right, and brings us to the 
 
 Speyerer- or Neu-Hof. 
 
 This demesne was laid out at the expense of the 
 municipality of Heidelberg, 1854. It comprises 113 acres 
 of land, obtained by clearing. The whole , together with 
 the right of keeping an inn here, is let on lease by the 
 town. Many reasons contribute to render this beautiful 
 spot the favourite resort of pedestrians — the delightful 
 walk thither , its charming position , surrounded as it is 
 with the lovely green of the woods, and far from the noisy 
 hum and bustle of the town, and lastly; the lovely pro- 
 spect, which open between the mountains away to the 
 west, and takes in the peaks beyond the Rhine, with the 
 towering summit of the Donnersberg. The accommodation 
 at the inn is good. From here, a path descends through 
 the Thai der drei Troge, past the Cemetery, and out into 
 the Rohrbach Road. Those, however, who wish to prolong 
 their walk, should , on leaving the Speyererhof , take the 
 path past the Bierhalderhof, and through the valley to 
 
 Rohrbach. 
 
 A village within an easy hour's walk of Heidelberg. 
 It is mentioned in documents as early as the year 7(57.
 
 60 Kirchheim. — Konigstuhl. 
 
 In the 16th. century, a Roman altar was found here, and 
 was taken to Heidelberg, and placed on the hill in front 
 of the Otto Heinrichsbau. In the Thirty Years 1 War the 
 village was burnt down. In 1693, it was the head-quarters 
 of the French. The spacious mansion near the high road, 
 and surrounded with park and pleasure-grounds was inha- 
 bited by Maximilian Joseph, before he became king of Ba- 
 varia. Subsequently, it was occupied by Amelia Margravine 
 of Baden, but has now become private property. Leaving 
 Rohrbach to the left, we arrive in a quarter of an hour at 
 
 Kirchheim, 
 
 Here, as in most of the villages of the plain, agriculture is 
 in a flourishing condition and many of the inhabitants are 
 in easy circumstances. During the Thirty Years' War, 
 Kirchheim shared the same fate as Rohrbach and other 
 villages in the vicinity; it was burnt to the ground and 
 the fields laid waste. This was again the case in the so- 
 called Orleans War , and it is owing to their being so 
 frequently devastated, by the French , that the villages of 
 the ancient Palatinate, particularly those about Heidelberg, 
 contain scarcely any houses whose antiquity reaches beyond 
 the seventeenth century. 
 
 The Konig- or Kaiserstuhl (King's Seat). 
 
 May be reached by the carriage-road from the Castle, 
 or, starting from the Klingenthor, past the Molkenkur and 
 stone-quarries, where both the carriage-roads meet. Besides 
 these, there are however, several footpaths more or less 
 easy of ascent, and less circuitous. One of these latter, 
 called the Plattelsweg, begins near the Molkenkur and leads 
 straight up to the summit of the Kaiserstuhl. It was made 
 by the Romans, and is paved with large stones. There 
 is a continuation of the same path, near Sinsheim. 
 
 The Konigstuhl lies 1752 feet above the sea-level. 
 The origin of the name Konigstuhl is unknown. An an- 
 cient tradition relates that the German king Estermann 
 dictated laws under an oak-tree here. It received the name 
 of Kaiserstuhl in 1815, when Francis, emperor of Austria 
 and Alexander, emperor of Russia made the ascent.
 
 KSnigstuhl. Wolfsbrunnen. 61 
 
 There is, to the north-west of the tower, a stone bearing 
 an inscription commemorative of their visit, but now over- 
 grown with bushes. The building of the Tower, which 
 crowns the summit, was the result of an appeal made in 
 1832, by Henry Jacobi of Gassel, then a bookseller's as- 
 sistant, and which appeared in the Heidelberger Wochen- 
 blatt. In consequence of this appeal a committee was for- 
 med, which undertook to raise subscriptions. The Grand 
 Duke Leopold gave a considerable sum , as is mentioned 
 in the inscription above the entrance, and in 1833, the 
 tower was already completed. A winding stair leads to 
 the top , whence there is a prospect , well calculated to 
 strike the visitor with wonder. Spread out in a vast circle, 
 lie hill, valley, and plain, dotted with towns and villages, 
 and, by the aid of a telescope (to be had at the inn just 
 below), the eye takes in the Rhine and Neckar, Mannheim, 
 Speyer, Worms, the mountains near Heilbronn and those 
 near Baden-Baden, the chain of the Hardt, the Vosges, the 
 Bergstrasse, the Feldberg; the mountains of the Rhine as 
 far as Bingen, and even the spire ofStrasburg Cathedral. 
 Those who do not mind rising early should ascend the 
 Konigstuhl before day-break, and see the sun rise — a sight 
 for beholding which, this lofty point is peculiarly well- 
 adapted, as it commands the whole of the surrounding 
 country. — From the Konigstuhl there is a good carriage 
 road to the Kohlhof. A shady footpath leads north-east 
 from the Konigstuhl to the Wolfsbrunnen, passing through 
 the wildly romantic Felsenmeer, or Sea of Rocks , which 
 is well worth a visit. 
 
 The Wolfsbrunnen (Wolf's spring). 
 
 May also be reached by the carriage-road running 
 parallel to the Neckar. The houses, which from the Karls- 
 thor, lie scattered along this road, form the village of 
 Schlierbach, belonging to the parish of Heidelberg. At a 
 little more than half an hour's walk from the town, the 
 road leaves the Neckar, and ascends to the right. Conti- 
 nuing onwards, a walk of another quarter of an hour, brings 
 us to the Wolfsbrunnen. Several streams unite here, and 
 the breeding of trout is carried on to a considerable extent.
 
 62 Wolfsbrunnen. Neuenheim. 
 
 The stillness and seclusion of the valley, and the murmur 
 of the brooks shaded by tall limes, have always rendered 
 it a favourite with those who love solitary walks, or who 
 are of a poetic or sentimental turn. Even Frederick the 
 Victorious often repaired hither with his friend and pre- 
 ceptor, Kemnat, and reposed himself by the shady brook. 
 In 1544, Frederick II caused the streams to be enclosed, 
 and had a hunting-lodge built here. The poet Opitz of 
 Boberfeld, who in 1699 was studying at Heidelberg, has 
 celebrated the praises of the Wolfsbrunnen in a sonnet. 
 La Fontaine lays the finest scene of his best story, 
 »Glara du Pies sis«, containing the true history of a French 
 emigrant's family, at the Wolfsbrunnen. According to the 
 legend, the charitable Jetta, who it will be remembered, 
 resided at the old castle on the Molkenkur, had one day 
 been out walking and had sat town to rest by the cool 
 spring , when she was seized and torn to pieces by a 
 she-wolf; whence the origin of the name Wolfsbrunnen. 
 The present inn occupies the site of the ancient hunting- 
 lodge. The opportunity of tasting the delicious trout, fresh 
 caught on the spot, should not be neglected. On returning, 
 we would advise the stranger to take the road stretching 
 along the slope of the hill. About twelve minutes' walk 
 from the Wolfsbrunnen, and on the right, is a slight emi- 
 nence, planted with trees and provided with seats, from 
 whence there is a lovely view of the Neckar as far as 
 Ziegelhausen. Nearly opposite, lies the picturesque Stift 
 Neuburg, of which we shall speak by and bye. At this 
 spot the river resembles a lake, and the whole landscape 
 reminds us of Switzerland. There is another very beautiful 
 view at the end of this road, just above the Castle. 
 
 There are some equally beautiful walks on the opposite 
 side of the river. Starting from the Bridge and proceeding 
 down the river, past a row of handsome viilas, we arrive 
 first at 
 
 Neuenheim, 
 
 a place of great antiquity, being mentioned in documents 
 as early as the year 765. From excavations made here, 
 it is evident that the place was once inhabited by the Ro-
 
 Neuenheim. Handschuchsheim. 63 
 
 mans. Just at the corner, where the road, leaving the 
 Neckar, bears away to the right, the remains of a Roman 
 bath were found, whilst digging for the fountations of a 
 house. At the extremity of the village, and to the left of 
 the road, stands an old house with a high gable-roof, in 
 which, 1518, Luther passed the night, on his journey to 
 Worms. 
 
 Within may be seen the dates, 1585 and 1581, which 
 refer to repairs done to the building. This house belongs 
 to the enclosed farm near at hand called the Monchhof. 
 The visitor who approches Heidelberg by the Bergstrasse 
 and passes through Neuenheim, is startled on turning the 
 corner, at beholding, as though by the stroke of a magi- 
 cian's wand , town and castle stretched out before him. 
 Those who arrive by rail , lose this agreable surprise. 
 Following the road from Neuenheim, which winds along 
 the foot of the gradually sloping hills, through a plain re- 
 sembling a garden, we arrive in a quarter of an hour at 
 
 Handschuchsheim, 
 
 which is likewise one of the oldest inhabited places about 
 here, and which was already known at the time of Char- 
 lemagne. In the Thirty Years' War, Tilly fixed his head- 
 quarters here, and in 1689 it was burnt to the ground. 
 The noble house of Handschuchsheim had its seat here 
 for upwards of 500 years. Its last scion, John of Hand- 
 schuchsheim, was stabbed in a duel by the knight, Fre- 
 derick of Hirschhorn, on the market-place of Heidelberg, 1600. 
 The ruins of the ancient castle of H. are still standing. 
 A lofty portal leads into the courtyard: the castle itself 
 was surrounded by a moat, and is said to have formerly 
 been the seat of the Holy Vehm tribunal. In the year 1777 
 it was observed that one of the walls, on being struck, 
 returned a hollow sound. On breaking it open, a niche 
 was discovered, in which stood a knight in complete ar- 
 mour, probably a prisoner of war, who, in comformity 
 with the barbarous practices of ancient times, had been 
 walled up alive ! On exposure to the air, the skeleton fell 
 to dust. The helmet bore traces of having been gilt, and 
 was dinted from sword-cuts. The open niche may still
 
 64 Philosophenweg. Stift Neuburg. 
 
 be seen in a small apartment to the left, on entering the 
 castle gate. In 1795, on the fields between Handschuchs- 
 heim and Dossenheim , a battle was fought between the 
 French and Austrians, in which the latter gained the vic- 
 tory. The field of battle extended from the hills as far 
 as the Neckar; the heights above Handschuchsheim, were 
 occupied by Tyrolese sharpshooters. 
 
 The church contains the monuments of the ancient 
 knights of Handschuchsheim: one of which bears the 
 date 1309. 
 
 Let us now return to Neuenheitn, and ascending the 
 hill by the road leading to the left, gain the 
 
 Philosophenweg. 
 
 Whence may by enjoyed charming views of the town 
 of H. and the surrounding country. In the distance are per- 
 ceived many towns and villages, and the sf)ire of the Ca- 
 thedral at Speyer is distinctly visible. Traversing the slope 
 of the Heiligenberg and keeping parallel to the river, we 
 reach the valley of the Hirschgasse, a spot that has obtai- 
 ned some notoriety on account of its being the rendezvous 
 of the students, for fighting duels. The carriage-road from 
 the Bridge, up the river, leads past the Hirschgasse to the 
 Haarlass, a large tan-yard, the buildings of which formerly 
 belonged to the Convent of Neuburg, and where, it is said 
 the nuns that were about to enter the convent, were obli- 
 ged to submit to having their hair cut off. 
 
 A short distance beyond the tan-yard, charmingly si- 
 tuated on an eminence to the left stands the 
 
 Stift Neuburg, 
 
 in ancient times a castle, but transformed by the Frankish 
 noble, Anselm, 1135, into a convent of Benedictines, and 
 called the Neuburg. Conrad of Hohenstaufen, Count Pa- 
 latine of the Rhine, changed it into a convent for noble 
 virgins, 1195, and appointed his daughter Kunigunde first 
 abbess. The last abbess was the Electress Palatine, Bri- 
 gitte, sister to the elector Frederick III. The convent was 
 suppressed by Otto Heinrich, who permitted the domain
 
 Ziegelhausen, 65 
 
 to be cultivated by a tenant. In 1621, it received a gar- 
 rison, and was stormed by the Bavarians without success, 
 In 1680, Charles Ludwig again raised it to a convent for 
 young ladies of rank. In 1709, the Elector John William 
 made it over to the Jesuits. After the suppression of 
 that order, it was managed for the benefit of the catholic 
 Seminary School of Heidelberg, and passed at last into 
 private hands. The former possessor, Councillor Schlosser 
 of Frankfort, did much to improve it, and added to the 
 estate by purchasing the adjoining lands. 
 
 At the foot of the hill, lies the mill (Stiftsmiihle), atta- 
 ched to which is a garden. This is a pleasant retreat in 
 summer. Light refreshments may be had. Following the 
 course of the river, we soon reach the village of 
 
 Ziegelhausen, 
 
 the inhabitants of which, support themselves for the most 
 part by laundry, bleaching and stone-breaking. The Eagle 
 Inn (Adler), with a garden running down to the Neckar 
 is much frequented by excursionists from Heidelberg. In 
 the valley stretching to the north, through which Hows the 
 Steinbach, formerly stood a royal pleasure-house, called the 
 Fiirstenhaus. Here there were trout preserves. This valley, 
 enlivened with mills and cottages, is pretty in the extreme, 
 and well worth a visit. Ascending it, we arrive in a quar- 
 ter of an hour at the Petersthal, where there is a chapel, 
 dedicated to St. Peter. In his chronicle, printed 1750, 
 Kayser relates, that this spot was the favourite resort of 
 pedestrians from Heidelberg during the last century. It is a 
 l3eautiful walk, especially in the evening, up through the vine- 
 yards just above the Haarlass, and then, striking the path 
 to the left, through the woods past the Engelswiese or 
 Angels' Meadow, back to Heidelberg. At different points 
 in this path, the tourist catches delightful glimpses of the 
 Neckarthal, castle and town. Farther on, we reach the 
 valley of the Hirschgasse, where we may descend into the 
 high road, or continuing straight on, again come out into 
 the Philosophenweg. 
 
 5
 
 66 The Heiligenberg. 
 
 The Heiligenberg. 
 
 Lies on the right bank of the Neckar, opposite Hei- 
 delberg, from whence, however, only its southern slope is 
 visible. Its height is 1300 feet above the level of the sea, 
 and it is of sandstone formation. The quarry below the 
 Philosophenweg furnished the stone for the building of 
 Mannheim Castle. In the time of the Romans this moun- 
 tain was called Moris Pirus. On the highest summit, where 
 the ruined convent now stands, there was formerly a Ro- 
 man castle, and on the height to the front and which is 
 visible from the town, stood a temple to Mercury, as is 
 proved by an altar-stone found here. After the expulsion 
 of the Romans, the Alemanni erected fortifications on the 
 mountain, and enclosed the upper part with a rampart of 
 stone. During the supremacy of the Franks, some ancho- 
 rites took up their abode on the mountain, which at that 
 time bore the name of Abrahamsberg. In 882, King Lud- 
 wig the Younger bestowed it upon the sisterhood of Lorsch, 
 who built a church and convent upon it, dedicated to 
 St. Michael. Upon the height to the front also, a church 
 and convent to St. Stephan were built, 1103, by the abbot, 
 Anselmus von Lorsch. In 1068, an abbot of Hirsau, whom 
 his seditious monks had expelled, took refuge in the con- 
 vent of St. Michael. Here he lived many years, and was 
 known throughout the country for his piety and benevo- 
 lence. A miraculous power in the healing of diseases was 
 ascribed to him. After his death, he was honoured as a 
 saint, and pilgrimages were made to his tomb. The chil- 
 dish superstition of those times, saw at night a halo shine 
 above the spot where he lay buried. From the time of 
 his death, the mountain received the name of the Heili- 
 genberg. 
 
 A remarkable proof of the excesses to which the con- 
 fusion of religious notions may lead, was afforded by those 
 enthusiasts, who, at the inducement of the recluse, Rainer 
 of Perugia, had formed themselves into a brotherhood, and 
 who, not contented with the means of salvation prescribed 
 by the Catholic Church , felt , that the favour of Heaven 
 must be extorted by the practice of extraordinary self-tor- 
 tures and flagellations. These fanatics went from country
 
 The Heiligenberg. 67 
 
 to country, headed by priests, and bearing crosses and ban- 
 ners. They made many converts, old and young, rich and 
 poor of both sexes. On arrising at a town, they halted in 
 the streets or public places, bared their breasts and backs, 
 and scourged themselves in a fearful manner with whips 
 armed with sharp iron points. They then called upon the 
 people to do penance, and collected alms. This sect received 
 the name of Geissler, or Flagellanten. In the time of the 
 elector Rudolph 1349. a large body of them arrived at 
 Heidelberg. They wore black garments; on the back and 
 breast was a white cross; in one hand they held a cru- 
 cifix, in the other a scourge. Having marched in proces- 
 sion through the streets , they scourged themselves , and 
 went from house to house collecting alms, exhorting every- 
 one to do penance. Many of the inhabitants of Heidelberg 
 suffered themselves to be deluded, and joined the strange 
 procession. 
 
 From the town they withdrew to the Heiligenberg, 
 where they encamped, for several days, and whence they 
 repeatedly made processions into the town and neighbou- 
 ring villages. The indecency of these public exposures, 
 their constant wandering about . and the large sums they 
 managed to extort in the shape of alms, gave rise to great 
 scandal. The University discerned the evil consequences 
 of this perverted manner of doing service to God, and pe- 
 titioned the elector Rudolph and other princes that the 
 Geissler might be sent away. Hereupon they had to quit 
 Heidelberg, and were conducted over the frontier. 
 
 In the course of time , churches and convents had 
 arisen in the town itself, in consequence of which, St. Mi- 
 chael's and St. Stephens on the Heiligenberg fell into 
 neglect. The Renedictine monks did indeed continue to 
 hold regular divine service there, but they found it impos- 
 sible to restore the mother-church of Lorsch, which from 
 the year 1504 to 1550 had fallen into complete decay. To 
 add to their distress, applications for admission to the order 
 ceased, and at length, about the year 1553, at a time 
 when a fearful pestilence had spread through all Germany 
 and was raging with especial violenee in the surrounding 
 country, the last monks quitted the Heiligenberg, never to 
 return, and the height again became solitary and deserted.
 
 6g The Heiligenberg, 
 
 Shortly afterwards, in the year 1556, Otto Heinrich intro- 
 duced the Reformation into the Palatinate. Pictures were 
 removed from churches and convents, and the number of 
 altars was diminished. The same fate befell St. Michael's 
 and St. Stephan's. Both were from this time abandoned. 
 Only on St. Michael's Day, a procession was made up to 
 the church, and a mass read. 
 
 In the year 1633, when the unhappy Pfalz was suffe- 
 ring all the horrors of war in the shape of fire, murder 
 and robbery by the lawless hordes of Tilly and Spinola, 
 the Bavarians, who were then in possession of Heidelberg, 
 threw up intrenchments on the Heiligenberg and adjacent 
 heights, in order to defend themselves against the Swedes, 
 who were advancing along the Bergstrasse. For this pur- 
 pose they made use of the stones of the convent buildings, 
 which were pulled down without mercy. In the empty 
 churches, the soldiers encamped ; on the 8th of May, the 
 Swedes made themselves masters of the heights, and com- 
 pelled the Bavarians to abandon their position, who, before 
 they retired, set fire to the rest of the buildings. What 
 remained standing, has either been annihilated by the tooth 
 of time, or has been wantonly destroyed, so that now 
 nothing is left of the grand old edifice , but a weather- 
 beaten ruin; a portion of the wall having fallen in only 
 a few years back, and the ruins still lying scattered in 
 the wood around. On the peak nearest Heidelberg, like- 
 wise, a few fragments of wall, still continue to defy the 
 ravages of time and weather. Here too is the so called 
 Heidenloch, a deep vault roofed with freestone, and having 
 only one narrow aperture above. This vault is said to 
 have belonged to the ancient Roman temple and it is sup- 
 posed, that in it, the oracles of their divinities were pro- 
 nounced. It may also have served as a cellar or cistern 
 for the convent. Besides Roman remains, the key-stone of 
 an arch adorned with the head of the Saviour, together 
 with the tomb-stone of one of the friars, were found here. 
 Thick bushes and tall trees now cover the site, where once 
 citizens of the nation that ruled the world had raised a 
 gay temple on the sunny height. The image of Mercury 
 has long since crumbled into dust and, reared upon these 
 ruins of a thousand years, the Christian temple, in which
 
 Dossenheiro. 69 
 
 generations that have long passed away, paid worship to 
 their God, has in turn mouldered to decay. The songs 
 of adoration are hushed, and the chirping of the birds or 
 the stroke of the axe, are the only sounds that break the 
 solemn stillness of the woods. 
 
 Excursions. 
 
 Besides the lovely Neckarthal and the beautifully woo- 
 ded heights of the Odenwald, the plains of the Rhine and 
 Neckar, extending like a luxurious fruit-garden beyond the 
 opening of the valley , there are many places of interest 
 in the immediate vicinity of Heidelberg, that will well re- 
 pay the trouble of a visit. Let us begin with the Berg- 
 strasse. Passing through Neuenheim and Handschuchsheim, 
 which have already been mentioned, we arrive at 
 
 Dossenheim, 
 
 pleasantly situated on the mountain slope, a little to the 
 right of the high road, and containing about 1500 inhabitants. 
 It was formerly in the possession of the ancient family of 
 Schauenburg. of whose castle, which lay above Dossenheim 
 and towards Schriesheim, only a few ruins are still visible. It 
 may be reached by a path through the vineyards; and the 
 magnificent view from this point will well repay the fatigue, 
 of the ascent. So early as the twelfth century, the Counts 
 of Schauenburg were very powerful. They became extinct 
 in 1281, and the castle passed over by purchase to the 
 Archbishoprie of Mayence. In 1460, Frederick the Victo- 
 rious, having quarrelled with the Archbishop, the army of 
 the Palatinate, under the command of the warden of Hei- 
 delberg, attacked and took Dossenheim, and burnt it to the 
 ground. Frederick himself headed the attack on the castle 
 of Schauenburg , which was taken, and at his command, 
 levelled to the ground. Some idea of the extent and soli- 
 dity of this fortress may be gathered from the fact , that 
 the demolition of the towers and walls, occupied seven
 
 70 Schriesheim. 
 
 weeks. Forty tuns of wine and seventy waggon-loads of 
 flour, fell into the hands of the victors. The stones of the 
 castle went to build the steeple of Dossenheim Church, on 
 the west side of which is a slab bearing the inscription 
 »Anno 1460 cecidit Schauenburg.« The porphyry quarries 
 near Dossenheim , which furnish an excellent material for 
 road-making, are a source of great profit to the place. 
 
 Continuing onward beyond Dossenheim, we arrive in 
 an hour at. 
 
 Schriesheim, 
 
 passing on the road a number of remarkable masses of 
 porphyry, conical in shape. While yet at a distance , we 
 perceive the castle of Strahlenburg, perched on the top of 
 a steep mountain, above Schriesheim. The town itself has 
 2800 inhabitants, and lies at the entrance of a beautifull 
 valley, shut in on the right by the Oelberg, and on the 
 left by the Branigberg. Its origin is lost in the darkness 
 of antiquity, but mention is made of it in documents as 
 early as the eighth century, and the finding of numerous 
 relics, prove it to have been inhabited at the time of the 
 Romans. The castle of Strahlenburg, the founder of which 
 is unknown, was already standing in the year 1259, and 
 belonged to a line of knights to whom it gave its name. 
 In 1470, both Schriesheim and the castle were the pro- 
 perty of Ludwig the Black, Count Palatine, who was at 
 feud with his cousin Frederick the Victorious. The latter 
 attacked and took the castle, which he destroyed. Sixteen 
 of the prisoners, who had broken their oaths of fealty to 
 him, he caused to be drowned. 
 
 The Oelberg, in the immediate vicinity, is well worth 
 a visit. From its summit (1342 feet), the tourist enjoys a 
 view surprisingly beautiful. The valley of Schriesheim more- 
 over , offers a charming walk. It is traversed by the 
 Kanzelbach, and contains a number of mills and paper 
 factories. 
 
 Leaving Schriesheim to the right, we arrive in half 
 an hour at
 
 Ladenburg. 7 1 
 
 Ladenburg. 
 
 On the road between Schriesheim and Ladenburg, near 
 Rosenhof, were found in 1766, the remains of a Roman 
 bath, and close by, a catacomb with six steps leading down 
 to it. To judge by the foundations, the buildings which 
 once stood here, were of considerable extent, but every- 
 thing has long since been choked up with rubbish , and 
 fragments of bricks and pottery, picked up in the fields 
 around are the only traces now left of the Roman sett- 
 lement. 
 
 Ladenburg has a population of 2500. It is one of the 
 oldest places about here, and was already of some impor- 
 tance, when Heidelberg was yet but a village consisting 
 of a few fishermens' huts. In the- time of the Romans, it 
 was called Lupodunum , and the numerous coins , urns, 
 weapons, &c. found in the vicinity, would seem to indicate 
 their having remained here for a considerable period. Near 
 Ladenburg, the Emperor Valentinian built a castle to repel 
 the attacks of the Germans, and caused the Neckar — 
 which formerly followed the Rergstrasse and fell into the 
 Rhine at Trebur — to be diverted into its present channel. 
 In the time of the Franks, Ladenburg was the capital of 
 the Lobdengau. The town with its palace, was given by 
 King Dagobert to the cathedral of Worms, after which, the 
 Rishops of Worms held their court here. The period of 
 its grandeur terminated with the religious dissensions pro- 
 duced by the Reformation. In the Thirty Years' War and 
 in that of the Orleans Succession which followed, it was 
 several times burnt and plundered. The church alone, 
 called the Galluskirche, was spared by the French as ha- 
 ving been founded by the Frankish kings. This church is 
 w T ell worth seeing, as also the family vault of the Sickin- 
 gens, the Rishops' Palace, and the ancient Roman towers. 
 Not far from Ladenburg, and towards Leutershausen is the 
 Stahlbiihel, upon which, in the time of the Frankish kings, 
 justice w T as dispensed in the open air. 
 
 Between Schriesheim and Weinheim lie tbe villages 
 of Grossachsen and Liitzelsachsen. These owe their origin 
 to the colonies of ancient Saxons, who settled here in the 
 reign of Charlemagne. Already in early times mining was
 
 72 Weinheim. 
 
 practised in the neighbouring hills. This has recently been 
 resumed, and with good success. 
 
 
 Weinheim 
 
 lies spread out in the shape of a half-circle, at the foot of 
 the rocky spur on which stands the ancient castle of Win- 
 deck. Its beautiful position in an exceedingly fertile country, 
 together with the mildness and salubrity of the air, render 
 Weinheim a delightful and favourite residence. It is much 
 frequented by tourists from Heidelberg and Mannheim, par- 
 ticularly in spring, when the countless fruit-trees along the 
 Bergstrasse are in full bloom. 
 
 Here too the Romans had planted a colony, as is evi- 
 dent by the remains of Roman aqueducts, coins, and stones 
 bearing inscriptions, &c. The town afterwards belonged to 
 the convent of Lorsch. In the year 1000 , the emperor 
 Otto III granted it the right of holding a public market, 
 and Henry IV permitted the establishment of a mint here. 
 In the fourteenth century, a new suburb was added. In 
 the Thirty Years' War, and in that of the Orleans Succes- 
 sion, it shared the fate common to most of the adjacent 
 towns and villages, and fell alternately into the hands of 
 the Swedes, the Imperialists, and the French. In the year 
 1698, the elector John William, on his return from Diissel- 
 dorf, fixed his residence at Weinheim, the dismantled con- 
 dition of Heidelberg Castle rendering it unfit for the abode 
 of royalty. 
 
 In the course of the last few years it has increased both 
 in size and population, and now numbers some 6000 in- 
 habitants. The park belonging to the castle of the Counts 
 von Waldner is worth a visit. 
 
 The ancient castle of Windeck is said to have been 
 raised upon the ruins of a Roman fort. In the 12th cen- 
 tury it belonged to the Abbey of Lorsch. In a sedition of 
 the monks, who, with the assistance of the cloister vassals 
 had driven out the abbot, the castle was destroyed, but was 
 rebuilt by the Abbot Henry of Lorsch, 1165. The time of 
 its final demolition is not known, but it is supposed to 
 have taken place at the hands of the French, so late as 
 the Orleans War. The height on which the castle stands
 
 Weinbeim. 73 
 
 is 611 feet above the sea-level, and affords a magnificent 
 prospect of the surrounding country. 
 
 When at Weinheim, the stranger should not neglect 
 to make an excursion to the Valley of Birkenau (Bir- 
 kenauerthal). The entrance to it was formerly closed 
 by a gate known as the Neumaurerpforte. The valley 
 is watered by the river Weschnitz, which once formed the 
 boundary between the Rheingau and Lobdengau. The 
 scenery is beautiful in the extreme. Gigantic masses of 
 rock , verdant meadows and picturesque mills meet the 
 eye in pleasing alternation. Rich in beauties of the same 
 nature is the Gorxheimerthal , which is watered by the 
 Grundelbach. At the end of this valley near the village of 
 Gorxheim to the left of the road, is a stone monument to 
 the memory of the peasants who fell in action against the 
 French. The valleys of Gorxheim and Birkenau are con- 
 nected by a beautiful and well-frequented path through the 
 woods. 
 
 A delightful walk from Heidelberg to Weinheim, is 
 that through the Hirschgasse up to the Hohestrasse, which 
 runs behind the Heiligenberg in a northerly direction across 
 the ridges of the mountains to Altenbach, Flockenbach and 
 Gorxheim, and thence through the Gorxheimer Thai, to 
 Weinheim. 
 
 Inn. The Pfalzerhof, near the railway station. Accom- 
 modation good. 
 
 For further excursions about the Bergstrasse , the 
 stranger is referred, to the work published by W. Leske. 
 Darmstadt and entitled: 
 
 »Die malerischen und romantischen Stellen der Berg- 
 strasse in ihrer Vorzeit und Gegenwart geschildert. By 
 A. L. Grimm. « 
 
 Not less powerful attractions does the Neckerthal offer 
 to the tourist, presenting as it does scenery of the most 
 charming and varied description. Excursions thither may 
 be made over the mountains on either side, by the river, 
 high-road or rail. The first station of importance on the 
 new line from Heidelberg to Mosbach, is
 
 74 Neckargemund. — Neckarsteinach. 
 
 Neckargemund. 
 
 Already in the year 988, the emperor Otto granted 
 Wildbann as far as Gemunden (where the Elsenz falls into 
 the Neckar) to Hildebald, Bishop of Worms. In the 13th 
 century it belonged to the lords of Dilsberg, and as early 
 as 1302, it is mentioned as a town, in one of the docu- 
 ments of the emperor Albert. Neckargemund itself, offers 
 little that is worth seeing. It is a busy little town, 
 numbering 2500 inhabitants. In the vicinity are the few 
 remaining ruins of the castle of Reichenstein, which was 
 an imperial fief. The place was stormed by Tilly in 1622, 
 and had to share the miseries suffered by many other 
 places at that period. From Neckargemund we pass over 
 a (lying bridge to Kleingemiind , whence there is a good 
 carriage-road to the small Hessian town of 
 
 Neckar stein ach 
 
 The church here is worth a visit, containing the monu- 
 ments of the Landschaden of Steinach, among them, that 
 of the knight Ulrich von Steinach, who acquired great re- 
 nown in the Crusades. A hound, the picture of fidelity, lies 
 crouched at his feet; on his right is a harp, and on the 
 left a Saracen's head crowned. The circular inscription 
 runs thus: »1360 in die Sancti michael's ulrichus lantschad 
 miles. « Just outside the church, stand the monuments of 
 an ancient knight. Bleikard von Steinach, and his wife, born 
 at Helm? tatt, with the date 1496. Other monuments of the 
 Steinachs, bear the dates 1379, 1531,1571, 1587 and 1592. 
 
 Good accommodation may be had at the Harfe Inn, 
 where there is a beautiful garden looking out on the river. 
 The chief points of attraction in the neighbourhood of 
 Neckarsteinach are the four old castles, which the tourist 
 should not go away without seeing. The ascent is by a 
 good footpath, which brings us first to the 
 
 Mittelburg. This is the largest of the four castles. 
 Over the entrance into the courtyard are the arms of 
 the Metternich-Millenmarks. There is a beautiful view from 
 the front court, and from the jut-windows of the halls above. 
 The Mittelburg was probably built at the end of the 12th 
 century, and after often changing hands , came into the
 
 Neckarsteinacii. 75 
 
 possession of the Landschaden of Steinach, from whom it 
 passed to the family of Metternich-Millenmark. 
 
 In 1753, the last of that race met his death by falling 
 from his horse as he was riding over the drawbridge. In 
 1803, the castle, together with Neckarsteinach, passed from 
 the Bishops of Mayence, into the possession of Hesse-Darm- 
 stadt ; the Grand Duke of Hesse conferred it on the Baron 
 ofDorth, one of the heirs of the Metternich family. The pre- 
 sent baron has, at great expense, rendered the castle once 
 more habitable, and it now presents a perfect illustration 
 of a mountain-fastness as it appeared in the Middle Ages. 
 Strangers are kindly permitted to visit the apartments, &c. 
 Leaving the Mittelburg, and passing through some pretty 
 pleasure-grounds, we next reach the 
 
 V o r d e r b u r g , called also Landschadenburg from having 
 been inhabited by the Landschaden of Steinach, prior to 
 their removal to the Mittel- and Hinterburg. Above the 
 gate, we perceive the arms of the Steinachs ; a harp with 
 the date 1568. The ruins of the private chapel and of 
 the keep are still visible. 
 
 A short distance farther on is the Hinterburg, whence 
 we obtain an uninterrupted view of the valleys of the Neckar 
 and of Schonau, through the latter of which flows the 
 Steinach. The Hinterburg formerly belonged to the Cathe- 
 dral of Speyer. The time of its erection is unknown: it 
 was however in 1341 already so old as to threaten falling 
 in. In 1541, it passed over to the family of Steinach and 
 in 1653, to that of Metternich. The latter becoming ex- 
 tinct, the Bishop of Speyer suppressed the fief, after which, 
 in 1803, it fell to the Hessian government. 
 
 From the ruined masonry of the fortress, rises a solid 
 square tower built of freestone and overrun with ivy. To 
 the rear there was formerly a moat , cut deep into the 
 rock; a drawbridge, large well, and, on the side facing the 
 Neckar, double walls with watch-towers at the angles. 
 
 From the Hinterburg, a narrow path leads to the 
 Schadeck or Swallow's Nest, a small castle appa- 
 rently hewn out of the solid rock, and which would appear 
 to be rather a freak of nature than the work of man. Of 
 the two entrances, the southern was the principal. From 
 the solid masonry, two watch-towers rise high into the air.
 
 76 Necfcarsteinach. 
 
 The castle is inconsiderable in extent : the courtyard being 
 barely 12 paces across. Dates, arms, the donjon, the well 
 and all the usual appurtenances of an old castle, are wan- 
 ting. The first known occupier was Bligger, surnamed 
 Landschad von Steinach : he lived between 1286 and 1300. 
 Issuing from his rocky fastness , he rendered the whole 
 surrounding country unsafe, plundering and murdering pas- 
 sing travellers. At length his lawless practices caused him 
 to be outlawed by the emperor, after which he never ven- 
 tured out, but died here 1300, and was buried in uncon- 
 secrated ground. His eldest son Ludwig of Steinach joined 
 the Crusade, 1344. He greatly distinguished himself by 
 his bravery, and in they ear 1345, slew, at Smyrna, a king 
 of the unbelievers with his own hand. His heroic con- 
 duct, wiped out the disgrace which his father had brought 
 upon the family. The dignity of knighthood was restored 
 to Ulrich and he was permitted to bear as his crest, a 
 Saracen's head crowned, on his helmet. The male line 
 of the Landschaden of Steinach became extinct, 1653. 
 Thereupon Schadeck went to the Metternich family, who 
 held it in fief of the Bishops of Mayence. The Metter- 
 nichs becoming extinct, it reverted to the government of Hesse; 
 remained however unoccupied, and by degrees fell to ruin. 
 Opposite Neckarsteinach and, perched on the summit 
 of a steep mountain, is 
 
 Dilsberg. About the year 1100, the Counts of Elsenzgau 
 had their residence here. In 1395, it passed to the Pala- 
 tinate and was elevated to a fortress. In 1622 Tilly at- 
 tempted five times without success, to take the Dilsberg by 
 storm. In 1633, it was taken by the Swedes, who however 
 in 1635, were obliged to evacuate it to the Imperialists. 
 In 1799, it was attacked by the French, but was so well 
 defended by the peasants, aided by a few invalids quartered 
 here, that the enemy again withdrew. The spot where 
 those who fell were buried, is still called the Franzosen- 
 hiigel. Subsequently it was used as a state-prison. Worth 
 seeing is the castle-well, 400 feet in depth. Access may 
 be obtained to some of the rooms of the castle, from the 
 windows of which some splendid views may be obtained. 
 At the Einhorn Inn the accommodation is of a homely 
 kind, but everything is scrupulously clean.
 
 Neckarsteinach, 77 
 
 Leaving Neckarsteinach, and passing through a pleasant 
 valley abounding with meadows, and through which flows 
 the Steinach, we arrive in somewhat less than an hour at 
 Schonau. Burkard II, bishop of Worms, struck with the 
 beauty of these lovely water-meadows, resolved on buil- 
 ding a convent here, which was accordingly begun in 1135, 
 and completed in 1141. It was occupied by Benedictines, 
 and its founder expired, 1149, within its walls. The first 
 of the Counts Palatine of the Rhine, Conrad of Hohen- 
 staufen, together with his consort Irmengard, who resided 
 in the old castle at Heidelberg, were interred in the cloister 
 at Schonau. Conrad's monument is pointed out in the cellar 
 of a clothweaver, on the site of the ancient church. The 
 cloister was rich, and enjoyed many possessions, both on 
 this side, and beyond the Rhine. It was the monks, who 
 by constructing mills, laying out farms, and cutting canals, 
 rendered the hitherto uninhabited valley, fruitful and pros- 
 perous. The Abbots of Schonau , of whom there were 
 upwards of 50 in the course of 400 years, possessed great 
 influence and authority. On the establishment of the Re- 
 formation, 1562, the convent was abandoned, and its pro- 
 perty applied to the endowment of churches and schools. 
 Many of the fugitives who had sought refuge from the 
 fanaticism of the Duke of Alba in the Netherlands, settled 
 here, and by their industry, raised Schonau to a thriving 
 place of trade. At present, however, little remains of the 
 prosperity of that period ; of the burial-vaults of the Elec- 
 tors and Bishops, not a vestige is to be seen, if we except 
 the ancient monument of Conrad of Hohenstaufen. The 
 church was destroyed during the wars of the 10th. century, 
 and its ruins have gradually disappeared. 
 
 The weaving of cloth was at one time a source of 
 lucrative employment to the inhabitants of Schonau, and 
 in the Steinach, a pearl-fishery was carried on. For a long 
 course of years, however, poverty and demoralisation, which 
 are prevalent in so many of the towns and villages of the 
 Odenwald, and which have hitherto defied all efforts at 
 amelioration, exist also here. Part of the inhabitants of 
 Schonau find employment at the cloth manufactory of 
 Messrs. Kolligs Brothers; the rest support themselves by 
 bleaching, farming (which is however inconsiderable) and
 
 78 Schwetzingen. 
 
 by the exercise of various trades. The town numbers 1700 
 inhabitants. At the »Lion«, homely but good accommoda- 
 tion is to be had. 
 
 From Schonau there is an easy carriage road to Hei- 
 delberg, through the woods, first across the ridges, and 
 then away along the mountain slope, down into the Neckar- 
 thal, which it strikes at Ziegelhausen, By this road Hei- 
 delberg may bo reached in 2*/a hours. 
 
 To active pedestrians we would recommend the fol- 
 fowing trips into the Neckarthal. They may either of them 
 be made in a day. 
 
 I. Over the Gaiberg to Bammenthal, Wiesenbach, Dils- 
 berg and Neckargemiind, and thence back to Heidelberg. 
 The way may be shortened, if, on arriving at Bammenthal, 
 the tourist strikes through the beautiful meadows to Neckar- 
 gemiind, leaving Dilsberg out of the route. 
 
 II. From the Hohenstrasse (behind the Heiligenberg), 
 through Wilhelmsfeld to Heiligkreuzsteinach. and back 
 through the valley, over Altneudorf to Schonau and Neckar- 
 steinach or Ziegelhausen. From Wilhelmsfeld. it is a beauti- 
 ful walk through the lovely meadow-valleys to Schriessheim. 
 
 III. From Ziegelhausen to Schonau , Neckarsteinach, 
 Dilsberg, Neckargemund, and back to Heidelberg. 
 
 Generally speaking, there is good accommodation for 
 travellers at all these places. Those unacquainted with 
 the road should make use of a guide. 
 
 Schwetzingen 
 
 lies to the west of Heidelberg, in the plain. The distance 
 is between five and six miles. There are two routes thither, 
 that through the villages of Eppelheim and Plankstadt, and 
 that by the Schwetzingen Road, which runs in a direct 
 line from Heidelberg. 
 
 The country about Schwetzingen, was already at the 
 beginning of the Christian era, the scene of sanguinary 
 struggles between the Romans, ancient Germans, and Ale- 
 manni. Evidence of this was found in the numerous graves 
 of warriors, which were discovered during the laying out 
 of the gardens.
 
 Schwetzingen. 79 
 
 The town is of great antiquity. So early as the 13th. 
 century, a castle was standing here, which had been built 
 at an unknown period. The elector Frederick the Victo- 
 rious had a garden here. Here too resided the consort 
 of the elector Charles Ludwig, Luise von Degenfeld. When, 
 in consequence of his disputes with the Reformers, the 
 elector Charles Philip left Heidelberg in order to fix his 
 residence at Mannheim, he remained at Schwetzingen until 
 the castle at Mannheim had been got ready for his recep- 
 tion. But it was the elector Charles Theodore, who by 
 planning the magnificent gardens, raised the place to a 
 celebrity that still continues to attract thousands of stran- 
 gers, even at the present day. The population of S. is at 
 present about 2900. 
 
 Begun in 1742, under the direction of von Pigage, 
 director of public works and gardens, the laying out of 
 these noble pleasure-grounds, occupied nearly the whole 
 period of Charles Theodore's administration, up to 1798. 
 Up to the year 1771, sixty thousand florins were annually 
 expended on the undertaking! This sum was subsequently 
 reduced to forty-five thousand, and finally to twelve thou- 
 sand. Notwithstanding this tremendous expenditure of time 
 and money, the original plan has never been completely 
 carried out. 
 
 The aspect presented by the gardens on entering 
 through the castle gate is very striking. On either side 
 of the entrance, extend the orangeries; to the right the 
 theatre, and in the centre, backed by magnificent groups 
 of trees and shrubs , the large fountain, throwing a broad 
 jet to the height of over 40 feet. The principal figure 
 represents Ariadne, mounted on a dolphin, and about it 
 are placed four groups of children, mounted on swans and 
 herons. In the gardens are many works of art. The prin- 
 cipal are: The Stags seized by Hounds (Verschaffelt), 
 
 Galatea leaving the Bath, in Carrara marble, by 
 Crezello. At her feet is a Triton, who is looking up at 
 her with longing eyes; Pan with his Pipe, reposing on 
 a lofty rock (Lamina). 
 
 Temple of Minerva (Crecello). 
 
 The colossal statues of the Rhine and Danube, 
 which are on the lake.
 
 80 Schwetzingen. 
 
 Temple of Apollo (Pigage). The statue of Apollo 
 is by Verschaffelt. The god is here represented playing 
 the lyre with the left hand, an arrangement to which the 
 sculptor is said to have been compelled to resort, by the 
 peculiar form of the block of marble. He excused the 
 inconsistency by saying, that surely for a god nothing was 
 impossible , and that therefore playing the . lyre with the 
 left hand must be both possible and easy. From an urn, 
 on which repose two Naiads of exquisite design, the water 
 pours down from step to step into a conchoidal reservoir. 
 Before the temple are six sphinxes, for the countenances 
 of which the ladies of Charles Theodore's court are said 
 to have served as models. 
 
 Hunting the Wild Boar. A lead cast, by Bonchar- 
 don. Near the Temple of Apollo. 
 
 Bachus on the Goat. By Link. Beneath are two 
 children playing. 
 
 The Bath-House contains several rooms, adorned 
 with fine sculptures and plaster-casts. Built between 1769 
 and 1777, by von Pigage. 
 
 The Birds with the Owl. In the centre of the 
 basin an owl is striving to ward off the jets of water with 
 which the birds from above are besprinkling her. 
 
 The Mosque is the work of von Pigage, and is a 
 fac-simile of one of the principal mosques of Constantinople. 
 It has a vestibule, surrounded by a colonnade, two priests' 
 houses, and two slender minarets 140 feet in height. Above 
 the principal building, are a dome and cupola. From the 
 minarets, there is a fine view of the surrounding country, 
 and the stranger should not forget to read the sage maxims 
 from the Koran, written over the entrances and inside the 
 mosque, in German and Arabic. 
 
 The Ruins of the Temple of Hermes. Built by 
 von Pigage, 1784. 
 
 Ruins of the Roman Water-Castle. By v. Pigage. 
 
 The Obelisk, erected 1777, on the spot where re- 
 mains of Roman and German warriors who had fallen in 
 battle, were found. 
 
 The finest part of the gardens is the lake, surrounded 
 with trees and shrubs , disposed in fantastic groups. In 
 summer, the shady paths, arched over with the foliage of
 
 Mannheim. 81 
 
 the lofty trees, form the most delightful promenades, ren- 
 dering almost superfluous the many vases, busts, and sta- 
 tues with which they are adorned. 
 
 Whit-Monday is a general holiday for Schwetzingen, 
 and people flock thither from far and near. A fair, shows, 
 and the like, add to the general enjoyment, and the gar- 
 dens are crowded with promenaders. 
 
 Inns. The Erbprinz and the Hirsch. Charges are mo- 
 derate, and accommodation good. 
 
 NB. A complete guide to the gardens (in German) 
 may be had at the entrance, price 15 kr. 
 
 Mannheim 
 
 may be reached from Heidelberg either by road or rail. 
 Taking the rail, we pass on the route, the station of Fried- 
 richsfeld, the scene of a great victory gained by Frederick 
 the Victorious. The circumstances were as follows : In 
 consequence of the papal ban issued against Frederick I, 
 elector of the Palatinate , Charles , Margrave of Baden, 
 Ulrich of Wiirtemberg, and George, Bishop of Metz, con- 
 sidering themselves released from their oaths of allegiance 
 to that prince, collected a body of troops, and laying waste 
 the fields and villages with fire and sword as they went 
 along, appeared on the 30th. June, 1462, between Schwe- 
 zingen and Seckenheim (the site of the present Friederichs- 
 feld) at the head of 800 horsemen and a numerous body 
 of infantry. They believed Frederick to be at a distance, and 
 ignorant of their movements. The elector had however 
 heard of their approach, and riding secretly in the night 
 from the fortress of Heidelsheim, where he was staying, 
 to Heidelberg, he collected all the soldiers, armed peasants, 
 and citizens that he could find, so that by break of day 
 he had mustered two thousand foot and eight hundred 
 horse. With this force he immediately marched against 
 the enemy. On the way, he was joined by the Bishop of 
 Mayence, and other noblemen with their troops. The heads 
 of almost every noble family in the Palatinate were with 
 him. Courage and enthusiasm animated his ranks, and their 
 ardour was still increased by the stirring address which 
 the gallant prince had the art to make to them before 
 
 6
 
 82 Mannheim. 
 
 leading them into action. The battle began at about mid- 
 day. The enemy, who had the Rhine and Neckar in his 
 rear, could not think of a retreat, and fought desperately: 
 the elector himself had a horse slain under him. At length 
 victory declared in favour of Frederick. Nearly the whole 
 of the hostile army, with all the leaders, princes and nobles 
 fell into his hands, and were conveyed prisoners to Hei- 
 delberg. On the spot where he had gained the victory, 
 Frederick caused a simple cross to be erected, which how- 
 ever no longer exists. Two hundred and twenty *years 
 after the battle, a body of French emigrants, Galvinists, built 
 the present village on the site of the battle-field, and gave 
 it the name of Freclericksfeld. 
 
 The road from Heidelberg to Mannheim, runs almost pa- 
 rallel to the Neckar. It passes through Wieblingen, a weal- 
 thy and flourishing village, with large mill, nail factory and 
 pleasant country-seats; Edingen, also a large village, with 
 a fine garden on the banks of the Neckar, attached to the 
 brewery belonging to Count Oberndorf and which is much 
 visited on account of the fine view of the river and of 
 the mountain-chain called the Bergstrasse; and lastly, 
 Seckenheim, a large place, distinguished for the wealth of 
 its inhabitants and the cheerful and cleanly appearance of 
 the houses and streets. 
 
 Mannheim. 
 
 So far back as the seventh century there stood on 
 the site of the present town , a village called Manninheini, 
 and near it an ancient castle, of which every trace has 
 long since disappeared. The elector Frederick V raised 
 Mannheim to a town, and caused it to be surrounded with 
 fortifications. In the Orleans War, the French bombarded 
 it during three days, and destroyed it completely. Soon 
 after, the town was rebuilt in the present regular form 
 with broad straight streets, all of which intersect each 
 other at right angles. In 1720 the elector Charles William 
 transferred his residence from Heidelberg to Mannheim, and 
 built the spacious and magnificent palace, which was com- 
 pleted in 1729. Mannheim continued at the height of its 
 splendour as the residence of the elector and his court
 
 Mannheim. 83 
 
 until 1778, when Charles Thodore removed to Munich. In 
 1794 during the War of the Revolution, the town was 
 occupied by the French and in November 1795, the Au- 
 strians bombarded it for the space of ten days. The for- 
 tifications have since been demolished and the ditches filled 
 up. At present Mannheim enjoys a flourishing trade, which 
 has been considerably increased since the construction of 
 the commodious free port, the opening of the railway &c. 
 
 Mannheim is divided into 100 squares, containing 1600 
 houses, and has a population of 26,000, exclusive of the 
 garrison. Worth visiting are: The Palace, which is one 
 of the largest in Germany. Part of it was burnt down 
 during the bombardment of 1775, and has not been resto- 
 red. The west wing was formerly occupied by Stephanie, 
 duchess dowager of Baden. The palace contains a picture- 
 gallery, a collection of antiquities, and a cabinet of natu- 
 ral curiosities. The Art Union holds its sittings here. 
 
 The Theatre, occupying of itself the whole of one 
 of the squares , was enlarged and the interior completely 
 re-decorated, 1853—1855, so that its stage may now rank 
 with the largest in Germany. Before it are the bronze 
 statues of Schiller, Dalberg and Iffland. 
 
 Churches. The Church of the Jesuits, the steeples 
 and dome of which, render the town visible from a great 
 distance, was built 1733—1756. Church of St. Sebastian 
 on the Market-place. Trinity Church. The Hospital Church, 
 built 1788. 
 
 The Bazar, surrounded with arcades, beneath which 
 are numerous shops, was built 1730. Before it stands a 
 bronze fountain with marble basin, erected in the time of 
 the elector John William, though not supplied with water. 
 
 The Port was constructed from the plans ofHiibsch, 
 Inspector of Pubic Works. The warehouses are capable of 
 stowing upwards of 12,000 tons of merchandise. 
 
 The Observatory. The Suspension Bridge, over 
 the Neckar built 1845. The Town Hal. 
 
 The Grand Ducal Garden, behind the Palace, ter- 
 minates to the west in a fine promenade along the banks 
 of the Rhine. The new and magnificent Railway Bridge 
 over the Rhine, and which is now also thrown open for 
 public traffic. From it there is an interesting view of the
 
 §4 Mannheim. 
 
 broad expanse of the river, animated with numerous steam- 
 and sailing-vessels. 
 
 Among the favourite places of resort with the people 
 of Mannheim are: The Rheinlust, a tavern with garden 
 and bathing-establishment attached, beautifully situated on 
 the Rhine, and affording a fine view of the bridge and 
 river; »Bundschuh's Beer Cellar «, with fine gardens 
 attached, and otherwise known as the »Lion Cellar «, from 
 the figures of two lions at the entrance: The Miihlhaus- 
 schlosschen. 
 
 Hotels. The Pfalzer Hof, Europaischer Hof, Deutscher 
 Hof, Russischer Hof. 
 
 We have now described those places, and pointed out 
 those routes, which, owing either to their historical interest 
 or the natural beauties they present , deserve perhaps to 
 be visited first. But he who has the opportunity of spen- 
 ding some considerable time at Heidelberg, should not 
 confine his rambles to the broad and well-beaten tracks: 
 let him without hesitation, strike into a path diverging from 
 the high road, be it in the plain or on the hills, across 
 fields and meadows, through the vineyards or in the depths 
 of the forest — everywhere he will come upon spots in which 
 the scenery exhibits itself to the beholder in new and 
 varied charms.
 
 Droschky-Tarif. 85 
 
 Droschky Tarif. 
 
 I. From the Station into the town, as far as the houses in 
 the Mannheiraer Strasse, or vice versa, the fare is, for 1 or 2 per- 
 sons, each 12 kr.; for 3 or 4 persons, each 9 kr. and the same 
 for all journeys within the town, which do not last a quarter of 
 an hour. For the night trains the fares are doubled. 
 
 II. No charge is made for luggage which may be carried in 
 the hand. Heavy luggage, as boxes, trunks, &c. is charged for at 
 the rate of 6 kr. each parcel. Childern under six years of age are 
 not reckoned. On crossing the Bridge, the hirer of the droschky 
 pays the toll each way. 
 
 III. For conveyance to and from balls, the theatre, or con- 
 certs, the fare in 30 kr. , irrespective of the number of persons. 
 
 Fares from Heidelberg 
 
 (Return Journey and usual Halt included.) 
 
 fl. kr. 
 
 Castle 2 — 
 
 Wolfsbrunnen and back, by the high road 2 — 
 
 Wolfsbrunnen and Castle 3 — 
 
 Castle and Molkenkur 3 30 
 
 Castle, Molkenkur and Wolfsbrunnen 4 30 
 
 Castle, Molkenkur and Eiesenstein 4 — 
 
 Castle, Molkenkur, Konigstuhl and Wolfsbrunnen (2 persons) 8 30 
 
 The same (more than 2 persons) 10 — 
 
 Castle, Molkenkur and Speyererhof 5 — 
 
 Konigstuhl (2 persons) 6 30 
 
 The same (more than 2 persons) 8 — 
 
 The Terrace above the Eiesenstein (Kanzel) 2 30 
 
 Speyererhof • • • 3 30 
 
 Philosophenweg, as far as the Hirschgasse 3 — 
 
 Schwetzingen for the whole day 5 30 
 
 „ for half the day 4 — 
 
 „ (returning immediately) 3 — 
 
 Neckargemiind for the whole day 5 — 
 
 „ half the day 3 30 
 
 „ (returning immediately) 2 30
 
 86 Regulations for Cicerones. 
 
 Neckarsteinach (back by tbe Wolfsbrunnen or Castle) . 6 — 
 
 „ for the whole day 6 — 
 
 „ for half the day 4 — 
 
 „ (when the droschky is immediately sent 
 
 back empty) 3 30 
 
 NB. The hirer of the vehicle also pays the ferry over the 
 Neckar. 
 
 All other fares are reckoned according to time, at the follo- 
 wing rates: 
 
 7* hr. 1 or 2 Pers. 18 kr. 3 or 4 Pers. 24 kr. 
 Va hr. 1 or 2 Pers. 36 kr. 3 or 4 Pers. 48 kr. 
 3 A hr. 1 or 2 Pers. 48 kr. 3 or 4 Pers. 1 fl. 
 1 hr. 1 or 2 Pers. 1 fl. 3 or 4 Pers. 1 fl. 12 kr. 
 
 IV. The driver is bound, on being engaged, to start without 
 delay, and is not to remain on the droschky-stand , after being 
 once ordered. 
 
 V. The driver is not permitted to ask for a gratuity, and 
 must if requested give the time, both on taking up and setting 
 down a fare. 
 
 VI. Complaints are to be made at the Police-Office, opposite 
 the Karlsplatz. 
 
 Regulations for Cicerones. 
 
 fl. kr. 
 
 The Whole Day in the Town 1 20 
 
 Half the Day in the Town — 40 
 
 One hour — 20 
 
 Two hours and upwards — 40 
 
 To the Castle - 48 
 
 To the Castle and Wolfsbrunnen 1 20 
 
 To the Castle and Molkenkur 1 20 
 
 To the Konigstuhl, for half the Day 1 45 
 
 To the Heiligenberg, for half the Day 1 45 
 
 The whole day out of the Town 2 20 
 
 NB. Every authorized guide has with him his license, together 
 with a copy of the regulations.
 
 Academical Repository 
 
 of Music and Objects of Art 
 
 Ii. Meder 
 
 42 High Street East, corner of the Kettengasse. 
 
 L. Meder begs to call attention to his extensive stock 
 of Copper Plate Engravings, Lithographs, Tourists Maps, 
 Panoramas of the Rhine and Switzerland, also to his large 
 assortment of Photographs , Stereoscopic Views of Heidel- 
 berg etc. 
 
 Writing and Drawing Materials, German, French and 
 English Drawing-Paper and Colours, Canvass, Oil Colours, 
 Oil Varnish, Requisites for Painting, in Maple etc. in great 
 variety. 
 
 L. Meder'S Kepository of Music. 
 
 Contains a rich assortment of the best and most po- 
 pular productions of ancient and modern composers. Sub- 
 scriptions may be taken out daily for longer or shorter 
 periods. 
 
 Terms of Subscription, gratis on application. 
 
 L. Meder's 
 
 Exhibition of Works of Art 
 
 (Heidelberg Castle, Friedrichsbau, Hall Nr. 7.) 
 
 Oil and Water-Colour Paintings. Free Hand Drawings, 
 &c. &c. Grand Relievo of the country about Heidelberg, 
 by Bauerkeller. Scale 1 [looqo. 
 
 Admission Free.
 
 ERNST MOHR, 
 Bookseller to the University 
 
 63 Kornmarkt, opposite the Hotel Prinz Carl. 
 
 A choice selection of Tourists' Hand Books, Grammars 
 and Manuals of Conversation, in the German, French and 
 English Languages : also Tourists' and School Maps, Atlases, 
 Panoromas and Views of Heidelberg, The Rhine, Switzer- 
 land, &c. &c. 
 
 Ancient and Modern Works in every department of 
 Literature, German Classics in every variety of edition and 
 in elegant bindings, together with all Educational Works 
 in use at the University and Local Schools, are always in 
 stock. 
 
 NB. Tauchnitz, Collection of British Authors. 
 
 HT Georg Tran, 
 
 Heidelberg, ios High street west. Karlsruhe, 100 zahr.-str. 
 
 Pianoforte Repository 
 
 Chief depot for the celebrated »Steinway« Concert and 
 Grand Pianos, universally acknowledged by competent 
 authorities to be the best. Gold Medale, Paris 1867. 
 
 A large stock of Grand and Cottage Pianos and Pia- 
 ninos from the well-known -manufactories of Kaim and 
 Giinther, Lippe, Schwechten and B i e s e &c. All 
 instruments warranted perfect both in tone and touch. 
 Manufacturers' Prices. Easy terms of Payment. A written 
 Warranty for several years given with each instrument. 
 Old Instruments exchanged. Orders for Abroad faithfully 
 executed. Parisian Metronomes. Tuning and Repairing 
 promptly attended to. 
 
 NB. New and Second-Hand Cottages and Grands, Pia- 
 ninos and Harmoniums for Hire on moderate terms.
 
 Fischer <& Comp. 
 
 Manufacturers 
 
 of 
 
 Healing- & Sanitary-Apparatus 
 
 37 Bergheimer Strasse, Heidelberg. 
 
 F. and Comp. beg to call attention to their extensive 
 stock of Apparatus for the promotion of ease and comfort, 
 both for Private and Hospital use. 
 
 Mechanical Couches, Easy and Bath Chairs of 
 
 every description. The Improved Universal Chairs, 
 Portable Chairs, Apparatus for raising and lowe- 
 ring the Sick, Coverlets, Water Beds, &c. A large 
 assorment of Apparatus for the conveyance of 
 the Sick and Wounded. IVight-Stools in great 
 variety and from the simplest to the most ele- 
 gant construction. 
 
 Portable Vapour Baths, 
 Bath Apparatus 
 
 of every description. 
 
 Portable Douche Bath Apparatus 
 Ice Safes. 
 
 Orders punctually executed. Price List and Drawings, 
 gratis on application.
 
 Grand lagasin de Nouveautes 
 Ii. Mayer 
 
 36 High Street East 36 
 
 SOIRIES, 
 (hales. Etoffes 
 
 de Fsntais're 
 
 Etoffes pour Deuil. 
 MERESTOS 
 
 Indiennes & Jaconas. 
 TOILES DE FIL 
 
 Blanc de Coton. 
 
 &c. &c. 
 
 CONFECTIONS 
 pour Dailies 
 
 Robes toutes faites 
 
 Dentelles Foulards, 
 
 EESTGEEIE 
 
 Fichus, Cravattes, 
 W.eucfiQi.rs cte PeoFte 
 
 Gants & Bas 
 
 &c. &c. 
 
 Robes et Confections sur messure. 
 
 G, Trabner, 
 
 Jeweller, Gold and Silversmith 
 
 9 High Street East. 
 
 G. T. presents his compliments to the public, and 
 begs to call attention to his choice selection of Jewellery, 
 Gold and Silver Goods in every variety of design. Orders 
 punctually executed. Old Gold and Silver. Pearls and Stones 
 bought.
 
 Nouveautes & Confection. 
 
 s. L STER 
 
 Ladies' and Gentlemens' Outfits 
 
 28 High Street East. 
 A choice assortment of Ladies' and Gentlemens' 
 Articles of Wearing Apparel , Paletots & Mantilles. 
 
 Orders to Measure executed with the greatest possible 
 despatch. 
 
 M©W Ittriri 
 
 Warehouse for Ladies' and 
 
 Childrens' Underclothing 
 
 74 Market Place. 
 
 Shirts made to Measure. Ladies 1 Trousseaux. 
 
 Large Stock of Linen and Bed Furniture at 
 
 Fixed but Moderate Prices. 
 
 EiimZmig WVeicMmrt 
 
 Vienna Meerschaum Pipe Depot 
 
 100 High Street West. 
 
 A great variety of Vienna Goods in pure Amber 
 
 and Meerschaum. Stick and Umbrella 
 
 Manufactory. 
 
 Depot en veritable ecume de mer et ambre. 
 
 Fabrique de Cannes et parapluies.
 
 SIMON RMS, 
 
 40 Hauptstrasse (corner of the Kettengasse). 
 
 \ lll^ll IVWkllw • Embroidery, Bielfelder Linens, 
 IJlllCll UUUtlA • Shirtings, Pocket-Handkerchiefs, 
 Table Napkins, Table Covers, Quiltings, Coverlets, 
 Negligee-Jackets, Damasks, Shirt-Fronts &c. &c. 
 
 AY A 111 1 4*11 f Vuulw • Ladies' and Gentlemens' Un- 
 it UUIICII UUUUJ3 • derclothing, Coverlets, Stock- 
 ings, Flannels, Table Covers &c. &c. 
 In great variety and at moderate prices. 
 
 JL. Wormser 
 
 Establishment for the Sale of Gentle- 
 mens' Ready-Made Clothing 
 
 104 High Street West (near the Badischer Hof.) 
 
 L. Wormser begs to call the attention of Gentlemen 
 to his complete stock of Ready-Made Clothing. All the 
 latest fashions at the lowest prices. Orders to Measure 
 executed at 24 hours' notice. 
 
 E. Lange's 
 
 Photographic Atelier 
 
 81. c. High. Street West (opposite the Providence Church). 
 
 Portraits executed in every variety of size. A choice assort- 
 ment of Photographic Views of Heidelberg and its Castle, 
 The Environs. &c. &c. 
 
 L. ZDDIERMAM 
 
 Optician and Instrument-Maker 
 
 63 High Street West (corner of the Ziegelgasse.)
 
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