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 $B 271 77D 
 
 Shiph 
 
■EKKELEY | 
 
 GENERAL 
 LIBRARY 
 
 UNtVEftSftY KM 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2007 with funding from 
 
 Microsoft Corporation 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/artificialflieshOOshiprich 
 
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Entered according to Act. of Congress in the year 1888, by 
 
 MALCOLM A. SHIPLEY, 
 
 in the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. 
 
 PRE8S OF SPANQLEB & DAVIS : 
 PHILADELPHIA 
 
SS&-. 
 
 OF 
 
 Fly M aking, 
 
 * 
 
 "►LY-making is an art which dates back long 
 
 before the time of Isaac Walton, who is 
 the patron saint of all anglers, and is both pro- 
 fitable, amusing and entertaining, besides afford- 
 ing that pleasure which comes from being able 
 to catch fish with a lure which you have made 
 yourself. 
 
 This short treatise is not intended to be at all 
 exhaustive, but to give some plain, practical 
 directions for tying the flies usually used, which 
 when thoroughly mastered, salmon and other 
 intricate flies can be tied almost by intuition, 
 and I would remark, before commencing, to the 
 would-be learner, do not be discouraged with 
 your first flies. Remember that trout and bass 
 do not look closely to see if a fly is handsomely 
 
 M842G71 
 
4 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 made or not, and I have seen artificial flies 
 which for appearance were anything but neatly 
 made, take fish as well as others which were 
 everything that could be desired. 
 
 The implements used in fly tying, are a pair 
 of sharp pointed embroidery scissors of fine 
 quality, or better still, a pair with curved blades, 
 a stilletto, a vise, either plain or with an attach- 
 ment for screwing it to the table (like cut,) and 
 a pair of spring plyers. We would strongly urge 
 
THE ART OF. FLY TYING. 5 
 
 our readers to learn to make their flies without 
 the aid of the vise, as we firmly believe they 
 can be made better and stronger and more 
 quickly without its aid, with the possible excep- 
 tion of intricate salmon flies. 
 
 HACKLE FLIES. 
 
 We will first take up the hackle flies, as they 
 are the most simple in construction. Select 
 first the hook, which for making a neat fly must 
 always have a taper shank. The most approved 
 patterns for fly tying are the Sproat and Lim- 
 erick, but for Hackle and Palmer flies many 
 persons use what is known as the Sneck Bent, 
 and we think with good reason, as any hook 
 without a side bend, if placed between the 
 leaves of a book — which will represent for our 
 purpose the mouth of a fish — you will notice, can 
 readily be withdrawn without the point enter- 
 ing. Now if a hook like the sneck bent be so 
 placed, it cannot be removed without catching 
 on one of the sides. 
 
 Select a brown hackle, a piece of peacock 
 
O THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 herl, from which cut for a trout fly four strands 
 close to the quill, and a piece of gold tinsel three 
 inches long, and snooding silk twelve or fifteen 
 inches long, which must be well waxed with 
 snooding wax by drawing the silk over it two 
 or three times. 
 
 Next select a perfectly clear and round strand 
 of silk worm gut, and having soaked it for five or 
 ten minutes in warm water, tie a loop in one end 
 and cut off the lower part, so as to make it five 
 inches long. Take the hook by the bend, hold- 
 ing it either in the vise or between the thumb 
 and first finger of the left hand, (see cut) wind the 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. J 
 
 wrapping silk spirally around the shank of the 
 hook, the turns being about one-eighth of an inch 
 apart, commencing opposite the point and wind- 
 ing to within one-eighth of an inch of the end, 
 always winding the silk, and in fact everything 
 that is wound on the \\oo\ifrom you. Now lay 
 the gut on top and wind closely and firmly down 
 to where you commenced. 
 
 Place the piece of gold tinsel on top of the 
 hook, allowing the loose end to lie between the 
 thumb and finger of the left hand, having but 
 one-quarter of an inch of the tinsel on the hook. 
 Take two turns of silk around it one-quarter 
 inch from its end, and at a point on the hook mid- 
 way between the barb and the point, (see cut) 
 wind the silk loosely around the shank of the 
 hook, continuing up the gut to get it out of your 
 way. 
 
8 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 Wrap the tinsel over and over five or six turns 
 around the shank of the hook between the barb 
 and point, catch the loose end with the plyers 
 and let it hang. Unwind the tying silk and 
 fasten the tinsel with three turns of the silk and 
 cut off the surplus tinsel. 
 
 Then tie in the herl at its point over the 
 fastening of the tinsel with three turns of silk, 
 after you have previously bunched and drawn 
 them between your thumb and finger from the 
 point to the butt to make it bushy. Now twist 
 the herl and tying silk together with a rolling 
 motion between thumb and finger, (this gives 
 strength to the herl), and carefully wind around 
 the shank of the hook, commencing at the 
 upper portion of the tinsel and wrapping up to 
 within one-quarter of an inch of the end of the 
 hook. Untwist the silk from the loose ends of the 
 herl, catch the latter with the plyers and let 
 them hang down ; then wind over the herl three 
 or four turns of the winding silk and cut off the 
 surplus herl close to the wrapping. 
 
 Take the hackle which you have selected, by 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. Q 
 
 the extreme point with the left hand, and stroke 
 back the fibres with the thumb and finger of the 
 right, by drawing it between them; (see cut) 
 now with your scissors cut from the point two 
 or three hairs on each side ; next lay the point 
 
 underside down on top of the hook and over the 
 place where you tied in the herl, and tie it on 
 also with three or four turns of the silk, (see cut 
 on page 10.) Cut off the point left over after it is 
 tied, and catch the quill of the hackle in the plyers 
 
IO 
 
 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 and twist the wrapping silk loosely around the 
 gut. Wind the hackle around the hook continu- 
 ously up to within one thirty-second of an inch of 
 
 the end of the hook, being careful not to wrap over 
 the turns already on ; let the plyers hang and 
 wind two turns of silk around the hackle and 
 hook. Now take the stilletto and pick out any 
 fibres of hackle which you may have wrapped 
 over. In winding on the hackle, care should be 
 taken not to twist it, but wind it on edgeways 
 with the underside of the feather toward the 
 point of the hook. Cut off the end of the hackle 
 by snipping the quill only close to the winding. 
 Stroke back the fibres at the head of the fly 
 toward the tail, and hold them down with the 
 thumb and finger of the left hand, and wind 
 over them at the root of the hackle of the last 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 II 
 
 turn of the feather three turns of silk, then 
 lay a loop in your silk by placing the loose 
 end on the gut three inches above the hook, 
 and wind around the gut inside of the loop thus 
 formed, four turns of the silk, winding it the 
 reverse -of the way you wrapped it around the 
 hook in making the fly. Now lay the loose end 
 of the silk along the side of the fly, catch the silk 
 by the loop and wind it around the head of the 
 
 INVISIBLE KNOT. 
 
12 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 fly and over the end of the silk on its side, this 
 will undo the turns around the gut, when you 
 can catch hold of the loose end and pull it tight, 
 thus making an invisible knot and a small head, 
 which is a great desideratum in fly tying. (See 
 cut.) 
 
 Now varnish the silk wrapping on the head 
 by using a pointed stick dipped into shellac var- 
 nish, and the fly is complete. 
 
 SILK BODY HACKLE FLIES. 
 
 For silk body flies proceed exactly the same 
 as in the description for a herl body, until you 
 come to tying in the herl, in place of which cut 
 off four to five inches of embroidery or floss silk. 
 If of the former, make it into two lengths by un- 
 twisting it, and tie in the two ends thus formed 
 on top of the tinsel. Wind your tying silk up 
 out of the way, catch hold of the silk for the 
 body, and without twisting it wind it over and 
 over around the shank of the hook to within 
 one-quarter of an inch of the end, making it 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. 1 3 
 
 larger in the centre and a gradual taper towards 
 the head and tail. Catch hold of it with the 
 plyers, let them hang and fasten it off with 
 three turns of your wrapping silk, and cut off 
 the surplus body close to the wrapping. Now 
 proceed with your hackle exactly the same as 
 in the herl body. 
 
 MOHAIR OR WOOL BODIES. 
 
 Some insects can be best imitated with 
 mohair or wool bodies, notably flies of the cater- 
 pillar order, like Palmers and Hackles, and 
 the cow dung in the winged flies. To make 
 these you will find crewel — a material used for 
 embroidery — very satisfactory, as it can be pro- 
 cured in almost any shade of color desired. 
 Cut and untwist it the same as you were in- 
 structed to do in making silk bodies. It can 
 then be wrapped on in exactly the same manner 
 as the silk, or if you use the crude mohair, 
 which at times is preferable, on account oLbeing 
 able to more nearly match the color of an 
 
14 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 insect, as two or more colors can be mixed to 
 form a body. As for instance, a yellow and 
 green to make a greenish yellow. Pull from the 
 bunch a small quantity and roll it between your 
 hands. Our object in this is to make it larger 
 in the centre and a gradual taper toward each 
 end, thus when wrapped on, giving the swell to 
 the body of the fly which so much improves its 
 appearance. This is wrapped around the hook 
 the same as a silk body, with the exception that 
 — unlike silk — as it is wrapped it requires to be 
 slightly twisted to give strength to the fibres, 
 while wrapping otherwise it is liable to pull 
 apart For small flies, such as gnats and midges, 
 this body is often used without any hackle, and 
 the legs of the fly which the hackle represents 
 are picked out with a stilletto at the head after 
 the fly is made. 
 
 PALMER FLIES. 
 
 We will now take up the Palmer fly. The 
 difference between what is known as a Palmer 
 and a Hackle fly is that in the former the 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. 15 
 
 PALMER FLY. 
 
 hackle is tied in at the tail of the fly and is 
 wound around the body as well as at the head. 
 In the latter, the hackle is wound on at the 
 head only. Select the materials and wind on 
 the gut precisely the same as directed for mak- 
 ing the brown hackle, except in this instance 
 we will make a black Palmer, which requires a 
 black body, and is wrapped with silver tinsel. 
 After the gut is snooded or wrapped on to the 
 hook, select your hackle and press back the 
 fibres, ( see cut, page 9 ) and cut a few 
 hairs from each side of its point. Let it lie 
 over the left hand between the thumb and 
 finger, tie the point in underside down, at a 
 place midway between the point and the barb 
 
i6 
 
 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 of the hook. Cut off a piece of tinsel four 
 inches long and tie in one end over the tying of 
 the hackle, allowing the loose end to lie back 
 over your left hand, then cut off a piece of silk 
 three to five inches long, (depending on size of 
 hook you are using) and untwist it, making it 
 into two lengths ; tie in the two ends thus made 
 
 over where you tied in your hackle. (See cut). 
 Now wind your tying silk up the gut loosely 
 out of the way, catch hold of the loose end of 
 the silk from which you are to make the body, 
 and without twisting it, wind it over and over 
 around the shank of the hook, to within one- 
 quarter of an inch of the end of the hook, mak- 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. I J 
 
 ing it larger in the centre, with a gradual taper 
 towards the head and tail. Catch hold of the 
 surplus silk with the plyers and let. them hang ; 
 fasten it with three turns of the tying silk, and 
 cut off the remainder close to the wrapping. 
 Wrap your tying silk around the gut as before, 
 catch hold of the loose end of the tinsel with 
 the plyers and wrap it first four turns around 
 the shank of the hook immediately below the 
 body and underneath the hackle, and then 
 spirally up and around the body, allowing the 
 turns to be about one thirty-second of an inch 
 or the width of the tinsel apart. Finish off 
 where you tied off the body one-quarter inch 
 from end of hook and cut off the surplus tinsel. 
 Wind the tying silk around the gut as before, 
 catch hold of the end of the hackle by its quill 
 with the plyers, and wind it spirally edgeways 
 around the body of the fly between the wrap- 
 pings of the tinsel, underside of the feather to- 
 ward the point of the hook, up to where you 
 have tied in your body, where it must be wound 
 closely three or four times, taking care not to 
 
18 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 wrap over the turns already on. Let the plyers 
 hang and finish off in the same manner as di- 
 rected in making a hackle fly. 
 
 The hackle and Palmer flies are excellent 
 trout and bass lures, and are tied in various 
 colored bodies and hackles. In making Palmer 
 flies for bass, the bodies should be made large 
 and full and the hackles very bushy ; and fre- 
 quently it is necessary, in order to do this, to 
 tie in two hackles in place of one, and wind on 
 both together; or tie in the first hackle and 
 wind it up to the end of the body only and 
 finish it off, then select another hackle and tie 
 it in where you finished off the first hackle in 
 the reverse of the way hackles are usually tied, 
 i. e.y tie in the quill and wind it on and finish as 
 before. 
 
 WINGED FLIES. 
 
 These generally are of two kinds, the straight 
 and the reverse wing. The former, in our opin- 
 ion, if well put on, are fully equal in wearing 
 qualities to the reverse wing, while in appearance 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 19 
 
 are more desirable, as they can be made with a 
 much smaller head. 
 
 Suppose we desire to make the Queen of the 
 Waters. We select a piece of orange silk, a brown 
 hackle, a piece of gold tinsel, and a mottled 
 feather from the breast of the mallard duck, and 
 proceed exactly as we would for making a Palmer 
 fly, always leaving one-sixteenth of an inch of 
 the hook bare at the head in thej making of a 
 winged fly to tie the wing on, as it will be firmer 
 and more secure and make a smaller head than 
 if it were tied around the fastening of the 
 
20 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 hackle. Now take the mallard feather and hold 
 it between the thumb and finger of the left hand 
 by its point, and draw the fibres back from the 
 point towards the quill until the side of the 
 feather is square or parallel, and each fibre is at 
 a right angle to the quill; on doing this properly 
 depends largely the appearance of the fly after 
 
 it is finished. (See cut.) If you will examine a 
 feather with the microscope you will find each 
 and every fibre contains hooks on each of its 
 sides which lock into the fibre next to it, and our 
 object in drawing them back is to unhook these 
 and cause them to re-lock themselves in a dif- 
 ferent position. 
 
 Now cut with the scissors close to the quill the 
 quantity required, which for a trout fly would be 
 about one-half of an inch, double it with the 
 underpart of the feather inside. (See cut on 
 next page). 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. 21 
 
 Now grasp the fly with the thumb and finger 
 of the left hand around the hackle, and close to 
 where you desire to tie the wing on, place the 
 wing in its proper position, (the point of which 
 should reach to the end of the bend of the hook,) 
 and grasp it firmly with the left hand, holding at 
 the same time the hackles at the head of the fly 
 down close to the body; now tie it down with 
 three turns of your silk, do not loosen your hold 
 on the feather until it has the three turns secure- 
 ly tied, then finish off with the invisible knot and 
 varnish the head the same as previously directed. 
 
 TAILS. 
 
 When it is necessary to tie a tail on a fly pro- 
 ceed as directed for making hackles until you 
 are ready to tie in the body; if the body is to be 
 wrapped with tinsel make three or four turns of 
 it around the shank of the hook and catch the 
 
22 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 end of the tinsel with the plyers and let them 
 hang. Now cut from the feather you dSire to 
 use for the tail two or three fibres from each 
 side of the quill, place both insides together with 
 the curve of the feather pointing up, convex side 
 down, lay them on top of the hook, fasten with 
 three turns of the tying silk on top of the wrap- 
 ping you made in fastening on the tinsel, then 
 proceed to tie in the hackle if it be a Palmer 
 fly, or the body if not, and continue as before 
 directed. 
 
 REVERSED WING FLIES. 
 
 To make reversed wing flies cut the feather 
 the same as you would in making usual winged 
 
 flies, except that it requires to be longer. Snood 
 the gut on the hook as usual and wind back 
 spirally over the snooding with the wrapping 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. 23 
 
 silk to within one-eighth of an inch of the end of 
 the hook. Now lay the wing which you have 
 previously cut along the gut with the convex side 
 up and with the butt ends of the feathers on top 
 of the hook. (See cut.) Hold them in position 
 by grasping them together with the hook be- 
 tween the thumb and finger of the left hand, 
 take four turns of the wrapping silk around 
 them, now cut off the surplus ends of the 
 feathers on a bevel towards the point of the 
 hook, this will give symmetry to the body of the 
 fly. Then continue wrapping with the tying 
 silk over the portion so cut, and from thence 
 spirally to end of the wrapping on hook and pro- 
 ceed to tie in the tinsel, hackle, etc., exactly the 
 same as if you were making a usual winged fly 
 before described. After your fly is completed, 
 except the wings, grasp them firmly with the 
 right hand close to the head of the hook, pull 
 the feathers outward and at the same time bend- 
 ing them back over the body of the fly. Now, 
 with the left hand catch hold of the fly wings, 
 and hackle, and tie over and over, close to the 
 
24 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 end of the bend of the wings with the wrapping 
 silk, four turns, and finish off with the invisible 
 knot. 
 
 Some fly-tyers, in place of using the invisi- 
 ble knot, leave one-sixty-fourth of an inch of the 
 end of the hook bare after the wings of a fly are 
 in position and are wrapped on, but not fastened 
 off, and then bend the gut back over the wings. 
 Now throw over the bare end of hook which was 
 exposed by the bending back of the gut two or 
 three half hitches of the silk and varnish it, this 
 also makes a perfectly secure fastening. 
 
 Should you desire at any time to make the 
 wings of a fly set up from the body, bend them 
 back toward the gut, and before you have 
 fastened them with the invisible knot, wind' two 
 or three turns of the tying silk around the body 
 as close to the wings as possible; by this means 
 you can make them set at any angle desired. 
 
 SCALE WING FLIES. 
 
 These, at times, are a very desirable fly, and 
 are more nearly like the natural insect than 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. 2$ 
 
 wings made from feathers. I have found fish- 
 scales taken from the shad to make the best 
 wings. During the season collect as many- 
 scales as you desire, freshly taken from the fish, 
 and dry them separately on blotting paper, as 
 there is a mucilaginous substance adhering to 
 them that, if they are allowed to dry in contact 
 with each other it will cause them to adhere to 
 one another. Cut from a piece of card board a 
 pattern for the wing, which should be pear- 
 shape with an elongated point. Lay this pat- 
 tern on two or three of the dried scales and hold 
 it in position with the plyers. You can then 
 readily cut them the exact shape required. 
 
 When ready to tie in position on the fly, dip 
 the points of the wings in water, which imme- 
 diately causes them to become soft and pliable, 
 and they can then be tied on precisely the same 
 as a feather. These wings are very durable, as 
 the property of softening as soon as water 
 touches them prevents the fish from breaking 
 them off. 
 
26 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 SILK WORM GUT BODIES. 
 
 A fly made with this material is very durable 
 and attractive. The gut can be colored any 
 hade desired with "Diamond" dyes, after 
 which the body of the fly should be wrapped 
 with silk of the same color as the gut which you 
 intend using. Soak the gut in warm water, tie 
 it in and wrap it on over the silk body. 
 
 DYEING GUT. 
 
 The famous mist color for leaders and gut, for 
 flies, is made as follows : Into an enameled boiler 
 that will hold one pint, place as much best 
 quality chip logwood as will go into a tea-spoon; 
 fill the boiler with water and let it come to a boil. 
 Allow it to boil for ten minutes, take it off the 
 fire and place in it as much sulphate of iron as 
 you can hold on a ten cent piece and stir it 
 until dissolved. Now place the gut you desire 
 to color in the liquor one and a half minutes, 
 then if not dark enough insert it again, and 
 allow it to stay until it has the desired shade. 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. 2J 
 
 The writer has used this recipe for years and 
 has never found it injurious to the gut in any 
 way. 
 
 COLORING FEATHERS. 
 
 Feathers for flies are always better in their 
 natural colors, but there are some which it is de- 
 sirable to use, more especially in hackles, which 
 it is impossible to procure of the desired shade. 
 As there is a natural oil in all feathers, and more 
 especially in feathers from' the duck and other 
 water fowl, it must be removed before the dye 
 will take effect on them. Tie in bunches of one 
 or two dozen at the quill end and make a suds 
 of soap and hot water; wash thoroughly and 
 rinse in running water. Use " Diamond " dyes, 
 which for this purpose I have found both good 
 in color and permanent. 
 
 FLIES. 
 
 It now only remains to give a description of 
 the flies most'usually used, and if the foregoing 
 directions have been carefully followed any one 
 
28 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 of the following can be readily tied. It would 
 be well to remember that in using flies, the rule 
 is on a dark day to use light colored flies and on 
 a bright day, dark or more sombre colors. Of 
 course this rule, like all others, has its excep- 
 tions. 
 
 The following are good at all seasons and at 
 all stages of the water : 
 
 Brown Hackle and Brown Palmer. — Pea- 
 cock herl body, tipped with tinsel, brown hackle. 
 
 Red Hackle and Palmer, — also called 
 Soldier Hackle. — Scarlet body ribbed with 
 gold tinsel, fiery brown hackle. 
 
 Black Hackle and Palmer. — Black body 
 ribbed with silver tinsel, or copper colored pea- 
 cock herl tipped with tinsel. These are also 
 tied with scarlet and with yellow bodies. 
 
 Gray Hackle and Palmer. — Ash gray body 
 ribbed with tinsel, gray, dominick or ash hackle. 
 When the latter is used it is often called "ashey, 
 ashev." 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. 29 
 
 Coachman. — A good evening fly or on a dark 
 day. Body, peacock herl tipped with tinsel, 
 brown hackle, white wings. 
 
 Royal Coachman. — Body alternate rings of 
 scarlet silk and peacock herl, tipped with tinsel, 
 brown hackle, white wings. This fly is some- 
 times tied especially for bass, with a tail of 
 barred wood duck or mottled mallard. 
 
 Grizzly King. — Body dark green, ribbed 
 with tinsel, gray hackle tied Palmer, tail scar- 
 let Ibis wings mottled mallard. 
 
 Queen of the Water. — Body orange, ribbed 
 with tinsel, brown hackle tied Palmer, wings 
 mottled mallard. 
 
 King of the Water. — Same as queen, but 
 scarlet body, hackle not tied Palmer. 
 
 Cow Dung. — Body of yellow brown mohair 
 or crewel, brown hackle, wings clay yellow 
 chicken feather. 
 
 Professor. — Body yellow, ribbed with tinsel, 
 brown hackle, tail scarlet Ibis, wings mottled 
 mallard. 
 
30 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 White Miller or Moth Fly. — Body white 
 silk or chenille, tipped with tinsel ; white hackle 
 and wings. 
 
 Silver Black. — Body black silk, ribbed with 
 silver tinsel ; gray hackle, black wings. 
 
 Yellow Sally. — Body yellow, ribbed with 
 tinsel ; hackle yellow, wings yellow. 
 
 Governor or Brown Hen. — Body of pea- 
 cock herl, tipped with tinsel ; brown hackle, 
 mottled brown wings. 
 
 Grey Cofflin. — Body grey, tipped with or- 
 ange, hackle cinnamon color, tail two fibres 
 from the mottled feather of the mallard, wings 
 drab. 
 
 Red Spinner. — Body wine colored silk, ribbed 
 with tinsel; hackle brown, tail two fibres from 
 a brown hackle, wings grey. 
 
 Dark Stone. — Body dark brown, hackle 
 yellow, wings clay yellow. 
 
 Shoemaker. — Body grey, ribbed with orange ; 
 hackle light brown, tail mottled mallard, wings 
 drab. 
 
THE ART OF FLY TYING. 3 1 
 
 Whirling Dun. — Body dun color, hackle 
 natural red, tail two fibres from mottled mal- 
 lard, wings dun color. 
 
 BLACK GNATS AND MIDGES. 
 
 Body ostrich herl ; if for a gnat, black hackle ; 
 if intended for a midge fly, use no hackle ; wings 
 drab. 
 
 Scarlet. — Body scarlet, hackle brown, tail 
 three fibres from a brown hackle, wings brown. 
 
 BASS FLIES. 
 
 All the Palmers, and for Florida waters, 
 yellow and green Palmer. 
 
 Ferguson. — Body yellow, ribbed with tinsel ; 
 hackle light green, tail scarlet Ibis, wing wild 
 turkey tail feather, with a strip of yellow on 
 each side. 
 
 Montreal or Portland. — Body scarlet, 
 ribbed with tinsel ; hackle scarlet, tail Ibis ; 
 wings mottled brown, turkey tail. 
 
 Bee. — Body peacock herl, ribbed with yellow 
 silk ; hackle brown, wings turkey tail feathers. 
 
32 THE ART OF FLY TYING. 
 
 Army Worm. — Body yellow, ribbed with 
 green silk ; hackle gray, tied Palmer and four 
 strips of peacock herl drawn over the back and 
 tied in at the head, no wings. 
 
 Academy. — Body peacock herl, tipped with 
 scarlet silk ; hackle brown, tied Palmer ; tail 
 Ibis ; wings brown, with a strip of Ibis on each 
 side of them. 
 
 Sellers. — Body scarlet, ribbed with tinsel ; 
 hackle brown, tied Palmer; wings and tail alter- 
 nate strips^ of white, scarlet and black. 
 
 Black June. — Body peacock herl, hackle 
 black, wings black. 
 
 Governor Alvord. — Body peacock herl, 
 hackle red, wings, under wing cinnamon, upper 
 wing black. 
 
 Black Moosehead. — Body black, ribbed with 
 silver tinsel, tail green, hackle black, wings 
 guinea. 
 
 The following are descriptions of natural flies 
 which appear on small streams, as per Sarah 
 McBride. 
 
the art of fly tying. 33 
 
 In April. 
 
 Black, gray, claret and scarlet, gnat, dark 
 fox, blue blow, red fox, bright fox, 
 
 In May. 
 
 Black May, cow dung, great dun dotterel, dun, 
 red spinner, yellow May, hod yellow dun, yellow 
 Sally. 
 
 In June. 
 
 Hawthorn, shoemaker, black June, dark stone, 
 green, brown and gray drake raven, wren fly, 
 Stebbins. 
 
 In July. 
 
 Little egg lightning bug or firefly, little 
 claret, fceted green. 
 
 In August, September. 
 Gray and brown cofflin, white miller. 
 
A Weekly Journal, devoted entirely to 
 
 F$j, Filing and Figh dulfeitfe, 
 Fhe O^'y O 1 "^ 2 fo An\erica. 
 
 Mr. Seth Green, the noted fishculturist, has charge 
 of the Fish Culture department. 
 
 Send for Specimen Copy and Catalogue of 
 Angling Literature — both free, 
 
 >3«Q0 P er annum € 
 
 WM. C. HARRIS, Editor, 
 
 Office, 252 Broadway, New York. 
 
Hinds' Black-fly Cream, 
 
 FOR REPELLING , 
 
 Bladk-Flies, Mosquitoes, Midges 
 
 -^^TX> OTHEXi INSECT'S, 
 
 and Protecting the Skin from 
 Sunburn, Irritation and Infection. 
 
 NO TAR. NO STAIN. 
 
 Containing no Animal Fats. 
 
 Its efficacy does not depend upon Oil Pennyroyal alone (like 
 »st. compounds,) and would be equally as effective without it. It 
 washes off readily and leaves the skin soft, smooth and free from 
 
 irritation. 
 
 Ladies may safely use it on the most delicate skin. 
 
 STATE OF MAINE. 
 
 OFFICE OF THE COMMISSIONER OF FISH AND GAME. 
 
 Dixfield, Feb. 25, 1883. 
 Mr. A. S. Hinds, Portland. 
 
 I have used your "Black Fly Cream" and have found it a sure 
 
 preventive against Flies and Mosquitoes : It is neat and clean I 
 
 should not think of going into the woods in Fly-time without it. 
 
 H. O. STANLEY. 
 
 Cynthiana, Ky., April 23, 1883. 
 Please accept my thanks for the " Black-Fly Cream" received. It 
 
 is the most elegant preparation for the purpose I have seen 
 
 will take great pleasure in recommending it. 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 J. A. HENSHALL. 
 
 Glen Falls, Vt., June 15, 1884. 
 Mr. A. S. Hinds, 
 
 Dear Sir: — For many years I have sought after the insect repel- 
 lent and have tried all manner of compounds, but yours is the most 
 thorough, at the same time cleanly, and not disagreeable. 
 Yours truly, 
 
 A. NELSON CHENEY. 
 
 Portland, Feb., 27, 1883. 
 Mr. A. S. Hinds, 
 
 Dear Sir : — I used you " Black-Fly Cream " last season while 
 trout fishing and found it a perfect success; was not troubled with 
 Mosquitoes while using it. It is the cleanest and best preparation I 
 ever used. P. B. BURNHAM. 
 
 Price 25 cts. per Box, by mail 28 cts. 
 Sold by dealers in Sporting Goods. Trade supplied by 
 
 A. B. SHIPLEY & SON, Phila. 
 
Hotels and Routes far Sportsmen. 
 
 ASHLAND 
 
 M.L.S.&W.R.Y. 
 
 ROUTE. 
 
 Milwaukee, Lake Shore and 
 Western Railway- 
 
 To the Best Fishing Resorts in 
 the Northwest. 
 
 For Muskallonge and Black Bass. 
 
 The Eagle Waters, Twin Lakes, Lake St. Germaine, 
 Tomahawk and Pelican Lakes. 
 
 For Brook Trout. 
 
 Watersmeet, Mich., The Ontonagon, Slate River, 
 The Brule in Wis., and Brule in Mich., 
 
 Gogebic Lake and Tributary Streams. 
 
 For Black Bass. 
 
 Gogebic Lake affords the best fishing in the country. 
 
 SPECIAL RATES FOR SPORTSMEN. 
 
 Address the undersigned for Guide Books and General 
 information. 
 
 CEO. S. MARSH, 
 
 Gen'l Pass, and Ticket Agent, Milwaukee, Wis. 
 
Trout Fishing, 
 
 Park House, Parkside, Pa., 
 
 One mile from Menryville Station, D. X. & W.JR.R. 
 
 90 miles from New York City, 
 
 100 miles from Philadelphia, via P. M. It. 
 
 The Finest Brook Trout Fishing in 
 
 the Poeono 9 Mountains > 
 
 Sioc Streams: 
 
 East and West Branch Broadheads, Cranberry, Seller, 
 Paradise, Devil's Mole. 
 
 Good Gunning in October, November 
 and December, 
 
 for 
 
 Pheasant, Quail, Kabbit and Squirrel. 
 
 For Particulars, address, 
 
 W. C. HENRY, 
 
 PARK SIDE, 
 
 Monroe Co., 
 
 Pa. 
 
Philadelphia Fishing Tackle House 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 Fine Fishing Tackle, 
 
 Rods, Lines, Reels, Flies, Shipley's Patent Fly-Books, &c. 
 
 Sole Agents for 
 
 Jno. James & Son's Celebrated Fish Hooks, &c. 
 
 Fly-Tyers' Cabinet, 
 
 Size, 12 x 8 inches^- -O 
 
 Complete with Tools, Materials, &c. 
 
 Including this Book of Instructions 
 
 BY 
 
 M. A. SHIPLEY, 
 Price, $5.00. 
 
 A SPECIALTY OF THE 
 
 Gelebrated J3ethabara Wood 
 
 Fly and Bait Rods, 
 
 Stronger than Split Bamboo and as 
 Tough and Elastic as • 
 Tempered Steel. 
 
 65 Page Illustrated Price last of Bods, Tackle, &c, 10 cts.