LIBRARY 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OE CALIFORNIA 
 
 SANTA BARBARA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 Mr . E. P. Bradbury
 
 ENGLISH TRAVELERS 
 
 AND 
 
 ITALIAN BRIGANDS, 
 
 ^arrattoe of Capture an& 
 
 .BY W. J. C. MOENS. 
 
 a i&ap anfc Several Jrlluatrattons. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 
 HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 
 
 FRANKLIN SQUARE. 
 
 1866.
 
 JSusco 
 
 The heavy line shows the Author's 
 wanderings with the Brigands.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 THE great interest manifested in the misfortune with 
 which the Eeverend J. C. Murray Aynsley and I met 
 during our visit to Southern Italy in the spring of this 
 year (1865), coupled with the request of many of my 
 friends that I should publish some account of my expe- 
 riences there, induces me to hope that a description of 
 my adventures in the mountains near Salerno may not 
 be unacceptable to my countrymen, particularly as little 
 is known in England of the " domestic" life of Italian 
 brigands, very few (if indeed any) Englishmen having 
 had such an opportunity of observing brigand manners 
 as has fallen to my lot ; and I sincerely trust it may be 
 long before any of my countrymen has the misfortune to 
 become so intimately acquainted as I have become with 
 the mode of life followed by these free companions.* 
 
 The book which I venture to offer to the public has 
 no pretensions whatever to literary merit of any sort. I 
 have endeavored to describe, as simply as possible, what 
 took place from day to day during my captivity, and I 
 trust that the many shortcomings of the work may be 
 considered as atoned for in some degree by the novelty 
 
 * Since my release, it has been announced that five other persons have 
 been taken by my captors none of them, however, Englishmen.
 
 viii Preface. 
 
 of, at all events, some part of what I have attempted to 
 describe. 
 
 To make the narrative complete, my wife has supplied 
 from her diary an account of what my friends were do- 
 ing for me outside my prison ; and we have prefixed 
 three chapters recounting our visit to Sicily, which, as 
 having taken place at the time Mount Etna was in active 
 eruption, and also as having introduced us to Sicilian 
 brigands, I hope may not be entirely without interest. 
 
 I have also ventured to add a few general remarks on 
 Neapolitan brigandage, and the only cures which my ex- 
 perience enables me to suggest for it. If the truth has 
 obliged me to make any remarks on this subject which 
 put the state of brigandage under the present government 
 in somewhat unfavorable contrast with what it was un- 
 der the Bourbons, it must not be thought, on that account, 
 that I am at all inclined to favor the latter. From the 
 bottom of my heart I wish well to United Italy ; but, for 
 all that, while fully appreciating the difficulties of the 
 new government, I must not seek to conceal its short- 
 comings in dealing with the dreadful scourge which de- 
 prives the glorious peninsula of half its charms. 
 
 Many incorrect rumors having been circulated with re- 
 gard to the ransom paid for Mr. Aynsley and myself, I 
 may here state, once for all, that the sum actually re- 
 ceived and divided by the brigands was 30,000 ducats 
 (or 5100), one half of which has been contributed by 
 each of us. 
 
 And, while on this subject, let me express my grati- 
 tude to all those many of them comparatively strangers 
 to me who volunteered pecuniary assistance in getting
 
 Preface. ix 
 
 me liberated, assistance of which it was ray good fortune 
 not to stand in need.* 
 
 I take this opportunity also of returning my most 
 hearty thanks to all those who, during my long captiv- 
 ity, so kindly interested themselves in various ways in 
 my misfortunes, and especially to those who assisted my 
 wife with their comfort and advice. Where all have 
 been so kind, it may appear invidious to specify names, 
 but I can not refrain from- mentioning Edward Walter 
 Bonham, Esq., C.B., her majesty's consul general at Na- 
 ples, whose exertions in my behalf were indefatigable ; 
 Signor Elia Visconti, of Giffoni, near Salerno, who ran 
 the risk of compromising himself and his family with the 
 Italian government in order to assist my friends in trans- 
 mitting the ransom to the brigands ; my generous friend 
 
 S W S , who, on receiving a telegram from 
 
 my fellow-captive, Mr. Aynsley, announcing that 8500 
 was required, without hesitation, and on his own sole re- 
 sponsibility, placed a credit for that amount in the hands 
 of Messrs. Gumming, Wood, and Co., of Naples, at a time 
 when a few days' delay might have cost me my life; 
 Richard M. Holme, Esq., of the house of Gumming, Wood, 
 and Co., who, in addition to other invaluable and un- 
 wearied exertions of his firm on my behalf, went to and 
 fro between Salerno and Giffoni at very great personal 
 risk, making the necessary arrangements for the trans- 
 mission of the money to the brigands, and frequently 
 
 * Among other kind offers, the following deserves to be specially men- 
 tioned. Rajah Byjenath, having heard from my brother at Bareilly, in 
 Rohilcund, that a large sum of money was required for my ransom, im- 
 mediately offered him a draft for a lac of rupees (10,000) to effect my 
 liberation. 
 
 A2
 
 x Preface. 
 
 carrying the gold about his person ; Signer Michele di 
 Majo, of Salerno, who generally accompanied Mr. Holme 
 on these excursions, and who frequently went alone to 
 Giffone for us, rendering us also, in other respects, the 
 most invaluable assistance ; and my friend H. Cowie, who 
 came out specially from England, and bore a most im- 
 portant part in concerting the measures which ultimately 
 led to my release. 
 
 I am also bound to acknowledge the kindness of the 
 officials at Florence, and at the Foreign Office in London, 
 who sent telegrams at all hours to my friends whenever 
 there was news to communicate, and who were always 
 ready to do whatever lay in their power to assist me ; 
 and also the great kindness of the prefect, and the gener- 
 al in command of Salerno, who invariably showed every 
 disposition to exert themselves to the utmost in my be- 
 half, the latter being ably seconded by the gallant officers 
 and men under his command. 
 
 When I calmly reflect upon the truly noble and un- 
 selfish acts that have been done in my behalf by so many 
 persons, I feel inclined to rejoice in my past sufferings 
 and misfortunes. Looking back on them through the 
 bright atmosphere of the sympathy and generosity which 
 they have called forth from my friends and acquaint- 
 ances, I may well afford to treat my pecuniary loss as 
 nothing in the scale ; and thanking God for his mercy in 
 restoring me to my friends with a whole body after all 
 the trials and hardships to which I was exposed, I can 
 say from my heart, now that they are past, 
 "Haec olira meminisse juvabit." 
 
 CROTDON, Dec., 1865.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 JANUARY TO APRIL. 
 
 Palermo. Traveling Companions. Lovers of Art. The Catacombs. 
 Monte Pelegrino. News of the Eruption of Etna. Domestic Manners 
 of the Sicilians. The Priests. The Bombardment in 1860. The 
 Vendetta. The Monasteries. The Grand Cemetery. Expedition to 
 Monte Pelegrino and its Caverns. Sicilian Brigands. The Way the 
 Palermitans manage these Things. Storm at Sea. The Fishermen. 
 Victor Emmanuel's Government. A Scientific Monk. The Value of 
 Sympathy. The Tunny Fishery. The Campo Santo. Manner of 
 Burial. Great Mortality among Children. More about Sicilian Brig- 
 andage Page 19 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 APRIL 3 TO 11. 
 
 Messina. Italian Hotels. How to avoid Disputes. Shaving at Mes- 
 sina. The Environs of the Place. The Camera taken for an Infer- 
 nal Machine. The Prison. Taormina. View of Etna in Eruption. 
 The active Craters at Night. Our Servant. A Wedding at Taor- 
 mina. A truly volcanic Soil. Linguagrossa. The Albergo di Etna. 
 First Ascent of the Mountain. Our Guides. The moving Lava. 
 Destruction of the Forests. Inquisitiveness of our Guides. The Brig- 
 and Signs 41 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 APRIL 12 TO MAY. 
 
 Linguagrossa. Second Ascent of Etna. The Brigand Signs are made 
 to our Guide. The Snow-line. The active Craters. Photography 
 under Difficulties. My first Adventure with Brigands. A narrow
 
 xii Contents. 
 
 Escape. We change our Plans. A little Disappointment for the 
 Brigands. Catania. Good Friday. Processions in Southern Italy. 
 Change at Naples since 1860. Benedictine Monastery. Syracuse. 
 The old Theatre. The Cathedral. The Catacombs. Fruit and 
 Flowers. Girgenti. The Cattiva Gente. Kindness of the Consul. 
 Our Hotet. The Excavations in the Neighborhood. Dispute with 
 our Host. Unexpected Decision of the Referee. Italian Officers and 
 their Families en voyage , Page 53 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 DIARY OF MBS. MOENS. 
 
 Ride from Salerno to Psestum. Our Escort. The Temples. Forebod- 
 ings. "Many a true Word spoken in Jest." Our Escort deserts us. 
 The Reason why. The Brigands at last ! The Capture. Conduct 
 of the Italian Troops. The truly Unprotected. The Village Doctor. 
 A new Cure for Fright. Two trying Days for Wives. Release of 
 one of the Captives. Mr. Moens retained as a Hostage 70 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 DIARY OF MR. MOENS, MAY 15 TO 20. 
 
 The Capture. The first Night's Sleep alfresco. Delicate Attentions. 
 The Englishmen's Fellow-prisoners. The Captain commences Busi- 
 ness. Value of Englishmen in Italy. Choice of Hostage by Lot. 
 Release of Mr. Aynsley. Skirmish with the Troops. I am detached 
 from the Band. A wet Night in the Mountains. Brigand Diet. 
 Two more Fellow-captives. The Brigands' Dress and Arms. The 
 Ladies. Sheep -killing. Gambling. The Brigands' Anxiety about 
 my Health. My Friends Pavone and Scope 84 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 DIARY OF MR. MOENS, MAY 20 TO 27. 
 
 Brigands merry-making. The Captain watches over me while I sleep. 
 His protecting Care. Thoughts of Home. A Storm. The Ladies 
 of the Band. Doniella. Carmina. Maria. Antonina. Concetta. 
 Their Furniture. They think I am a Milord. The Government will 
 pay for me. A Night March. A terrific Climb. Method of selecting 
 Sentries. Threats of Mutilation 114
 
 Contents. xiii 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 DIARY OF MR. MOENS, MAY 28. 
 
 The second Sunday. Good News for Visconti. More Letter-writing. 
 An Attempt at Sketching. The Englishman's Appetite. Alarms. 
 The Soldiers. A Tradimento. Death of Luigi. Thoughts of Es- 
 caping. The drying Process. Difficulty of Washing. A wounded 
 Brigandess. Assistance given by the Peasants to the Brigands. De- 
 scription of the Band. A regular Feed for once in a way. Pot-luck. 
 Unpleasant Sleeping-quarters. Sheep-stealers Page 132 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 DIARY OF MR. MOENS, JUNE 1 TO 7. 
 
 Wood-carving. The wounded Girl. A tantalizing View. Victims. 
 The Captives not introduced. A Thunderbolt. Rain, Rain. Three 
 under a Cloak. 111 Treatment from Cerino's Band. Their abject 
 fear of Death. A Blow from Cerino. Consolation. New Arrivals. 
 Screwing up. A Scrimmage with Generoso. The greedy Cerino. 
 An Installment of my Ransom arrives. The Proposal to the Brigands 
 to leave the Country in an English Ship. The Lesson of the " Aunis." 
 What became of the 10,000 francs. Gambling. Visconti is ap- 
 pointed my Agent. Pleasant Position of his Family. I am the only 
 Captive. Quarrels. The Argumentum Baculinum. I am invited to 
 Gamble 151 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 MRS. MOENS'S LETTERS, MAY 17 TO JUNE 18. 
 
 Return to Naples. Hotel de Geneve. The Coppersmiths. Telegrams to 
 England. Letters to the Brigand. Milords or Photographers. First 
 Letter from the Hostage. A noble Reply to a Telegram. The second 
 Letter. Imprisonment of the Brigand's Relatives. Arrival of H. M.S. 
 "Magicienne." Omniscience of the Italian Government. Sunday in 
 Naples. Our Message stopped. The Brigandess's News. Another 
 Letter from the Hostage. A second Installment prepared. Letter to 
 the Times. A Visit from a supposed Manutengulo. I hear of a Friend 
 coming from England. His Arrival 170
 
 xiv Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 DIARY OF ME. MOENS, JUNE 7 TO 28. 
 
 Thieving Propensities of Cerino. Generoso's Conduct worthy of his 
 Name. I am again left with five Guardians. The Magicienne. A 
 Three Days' Rest. New and very unpleasant Companions. Small 
 Amount of Washing done in the Mountains. A long Rest. Bread 
 Diet. Its Effect. A Peasant Visitor. Wood-carving. A Message 
 with Letters. A second Installment and warm Clothing. I write 
 again. My new Treasures. The Luxury of a Comb Page 186 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 DIARY OF MRS. MOENS, JUNE 18 TO JULY 31. 
 
 The second Installment received. Scheme to ascertain the Hostage's 
 own Views. Journey from Salerno to GifFoni. The Fire-eating Cor- 
 poral. Kindness of the Authorities. An English Letter from the 
 Hostage. An Attempt to reduce the Ransom. A third Installment 
 sent to GifFoni. The Palazzo Serracapriola. Signora Q. Her His- 
 tory. Political Persecution. The Questor. His Kindness. The 
 Press. The Rigors of the Troops. The Neapolitan Detective. Re- 
 sult of the Ladies' secret Scheme. Life in Ischia. The Ven- 
 detta 202 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 DIARY OF ME. MOENS, JUNE 21 TO 30. 
 
 On the Move again. Without excess of Luggage. The de'pot of Provi- 
 sions. We join Cerino's Band again. Effect of the Arrival of H. M. 
 S. Magicienne on the Amount of the Ransom. A new Hat. "Brig- 
 ands supplied" by London Hatters. The Charcoal-burners. The 
 Troops again in Sight. Sheep-stealing. Meat once a Fortnight. 
 Scope's Treatment of me. Pavone's History. Generoso at Death's 
 Door. Cold. I have to Write more terrible Letters. I am left with 
 Eight or Ten of the Band. Harsh Treatment. Tantalizing View. 
 Wine and Rosolio. I become very 111. Andrea's Heart softens. Let- 
 ters from my Friends, but no more Mony. My Ears in Danger. I 
 am made to Write again. Cerino's Band go off with the Letters 219
 
 Contents. xv 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 DIARY OF MR. MOENS, JOLT 1 TO 17. 
 
 Waiting for an Answer. The Soldiers again. We Retreat How they 
 encouraged me to move on. A narrow Escape. News of Giardullo's 
 Capture. How it was effected. Gambling again. I lend my Comb. 
 Place aux Dames. Orchard Robbing. A Meal of Onions. Pavone 
 steals my Socks. The Fame of Crocco and Borjes. Telescopes. 
 Sheep-stealing. Another Night Walk. I write more Letters. Guan- 
 ge offends Manzo. Manzo enforces Discipline. Feeling of the Band 
 toward him. Scarcity of Water. Sentonio's Water-bottle. Mysteri- 
 ous Disappearance of the Contents. Lorenzo physics himself. I am 
 threatened by all. I think seriously of cutting my Ears myself. Pro- 
 posal to Emigrate under my Leadership Page 240 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 DIARY OF MR. MOENS, JDLY 17 TO 22. 
 
 A good View of the Country. A real live Wolf. A good Omen. Strik- 
 ing a Light with a Percussion Cap. A Brigand Bivouac. Cook- 
 ing Scene. The first Whisper of a Reduction in the Ransom. Pas- 
 quale's kind Advice to the Captain. Manzo leaves me again. Scope's 
 Gun goes off. I venture to chaff him. A fair Challenge. His Re- 
 venge. Visitors from Giardullo's Band. Their Adventures. Manzo's 
 Return. A Skirmish with the Soldiers. The Band is divided. Awk- 
 ward Position of my Party. I am in great Danger. Thoughts of Es- 
 cape. I hesitate to kill two Sleeping Men 260 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 DIARY OF MR. MOENS, JULY 22 TO 31. 
 
 My Guardians are without Money. A bad Look-out. My Penknife put 
 to a new Use. Meat and Fuel, but no Fire. Necessity is the Mother 
 of Invention. The Attack of the Soldiers explained. Failure when 
 Success seemed certain. Scarcity of Water. An Attempt at Bribery. 
 A cheerless Spot. They play me a shabby Trick. Manzo arrives 
 again. An Abode assigned to me for the next Fortnight. Traces of 
 Giardullo's precious Tenancy. An Attempt at Washing. No Food for 
 three Days. A little raw rancid Fat. A Bone. I feed in a decidedly 
 canine Manner. Two more davs without Food. I am at the last Ex-
 
 xvi Contents. 
 
 tremity. Great Hardships. Manzo joins us again. I write once more 
 at his Dictation. Cerino's Discomfiture Page 279 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 DIART OF MR. MOENS, JULY 31 TO AUGUST 22. 
 
 Illness of Scope, my Bete Noir- Starvation threatens again. Scarcity 
 of Water again. The Brigands observe Fast-days. Their religious 
 Feelings. Their Respect for my Talents. Fearful State to which I 
 was reduced. The Soldiers once more. We leave the Cave. A Meal 
 of Mutton and Potatoes. I am sent away to meet Manzo. In sight 
 of Acerno again. Rigors practiced by the Troops on the Peasantry. 
 Hard Work of the Women. I hear that 6000 Ducats have been re- 
 ceived. Prospects of Freedom. Antonio's new Suit. More Gam- 
 bling. Two Days we live on Apples. All the Money had at last. 
 Manzo's Behavior. Division of the Spoil 298 
 
 CHAPTER XVH. 
 
 DIARY OF MRS. MOENS, JULY 31 TO AUGUST 25. 
 News from the Band. A Visit from Talarico. Otium cum dig. after an 
 honorable Career. Talarico's Advice to the Captive's Wife. His 
 chivalrous Offer. The five Brigands at Visconti's. The last Letter 
 from the Captive. Reduction of the Brigands' Claim. A gallant 
 Priest Another Visit to General Balegno. His Kindness. Intense 
 Excitement when the Ransom was all Paid. Suspense. Free at last. 
 Joy too deep for Words 313 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 DIARY OF MR. MOENS, Concluded: AUGUST 24 TO 26. 
 The sudden Reduction of the Ransom accounted for. The Soldiers rath- 
 er too near. I am still in imminent Danger. Manzo goes round with 
 the Hat for me. Parting Civilities. Interchange of Gifts. Pasquale's 
 Generosity. Pavone is affectionate. I bid him a fond Adieu. One 
 more Night in the Woods. Arrival of Tedesco, my Guide. Manzo's 
 Mother. My parting Advice to Manzo. My elegant Appearance, 
 Kindness of the Peasants. Crosses on the Mountains. In sight of 
 Giffoni. My Reception there. Kindness of the Visconti Family. 
 Arrival of my Wife at Giffoni. We return together to Salerno.... 323
 
 Contents. xvii 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 REFLECTIONS ox BRIGANDAGE: SOUTHERN ITALY. 
 The Ransom all paid to the Band. No other Persons participate directly. 
 The exorbitant Prices charged for Food. The Peasants the real 
 Gainers. Manutengoli. The real Causes of the Success of Brigand- 
 age. The Roots to be eradicated. Measures proposed Page 339
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 A. Notice posted up in the Hotel Vittoria, Salerno Page 347 
 
 B. The Dangers of Signer Visconti's position 347 
 
 C. Reply from the Prefect of Salerno to the Inquiry whether his 
 
 Government would pay any of the Ransom addressed to Mrs. 
 Moens 348 
 
 D. Translation of Signer Visconti's Letter to Mrs. Moens 348 
 
 E. Translation of Manzo's Letter to Signor Visconti 349 
 
 F. Were the Brigands connected with Francis II. ? 349 
 
 G. A Brigand Song 350 
 
 H. Letter from the Captive to his Wife, dictated verbatim by Manzo 352 
 I. Letter by a celebrated Brigand Chief to Manzo in behalf of the 
 
 Captive 353 
 
 K. Copy of Manzo's Receipt, and Translation 353 
 
 L. Names of Brigands arrested, tried, and shot in 1865 in the Prov- 
 inces of Salerno 354 
 
 M. The Names of the Manutengoli who were arrested in 1865 354 
 
 N. Number of Soldiers in the two Provinces in March and April, 
 
 1865 355 
 
 Ditto in July and August 355 
 
 O- Names of Persons seized and held to Ransom in 1865 by Manzo 
 
 and Giardullo, and Amounts of Ransom demanded and paid... 355 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR Frontispiece. 
 
 MAP, SHOWING THE AUTHOR'S WANDERINGS WITH THE 
 
 BRIGANDS to face Preface. 
 
 THE BASILICA AND TEMPLE OF NEPTUNE, P.ESTUM Page 72 
 
 THE CAPTURE AT BATTIPAGLIA 75 
 
 GAETANO MASZO 85 
 
 THE FIGHT WITH THE SOLDIERS ON MONTE CORVINO 92 
 
 GIARDULLO DI PESTO 243 
 
 BIVOUAC AT NIGHT NEAR CAMPAGNA 288
 
 ENGLISH TRAVELERS 
 
 AND 
 
 ITALIAN BRIGANDS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 JANUARY TO APRIL. 
 
 Palermo. Traveling Companions. Lovers of Art. The Catacombs. 
 Monte Pelegrino. News of the Eruption of Etna. Domestic Manners 
 of the Sicilians. The Priests. The Bombardment in 1860. The 
 Vendetta. The Monasteries. The Grand Cemetery. Expedition to 
 Monte Pelegrino and its Caverns. Sicilian Brigands. The Way the 
 Palermitans manage these Things. Storm at Sea. The Fishermen. 
 Victor Emmanuel's Government. A Scientific Monk. The Value of 
 Sympathy. The Tunny Fishery. The Campo Santo. Manner of 
 Burial. Great Mortality among Children. More about Sicilian Brig- 
 andage. 
 
 Palermo, January 15. ON the 12th of January, 1865, we 
 reached Palermo, after a quick passage of only forty-eight 
 hours from Marseilles. The change from the fog and snow 
 we left at Paris to this warm June weather is delightful. I 
 feel my winter clothing quite oppressive, and my husband 
 has discarded his great-coat. 
 
 Our voyage was a very pleasant one ; the passengers on 
 board the steamer were mostly Americans, very amusing 
 and sociable ; and the sea was so calm and smooth that we 
 spent the greater part of the time on deck. The food and 
 accommodation on board were excellent, though our last
 
 20 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 breakfast of black pudding, pigs' pettitoes, thrushes and 
 blackbirds, was not very tempting. 
 
 I had long conversations with some American ladies from 
 Philadelphia, who made my blood boil by the way in which 
 they spoke of England and the English ; they considered 
 that a very few months would now decide the war; the 
 Southern rebellion would then be crushed, and slavery be 
 at an end. The North was fighting in a holy cause ; they 
 had put off the war too long, and Heaven had justly pun- 
 ished them by making it so terrible a one, etc., etc. 
 
 On our way we steamed past Caprera, a barren-looking 
 rock, with Garibaldi's English yacht lying at anchor near 
 his abode. 
 
 The Bay of Palermo is more lovely to my taste than the 
 far-famed Bay of Naples. I stood at the head of the vessel 
 as we approached the red and stupendous precipices of 
 Monte Pelegrino, the city, with its campanile towers and 
 churches, surrounded by its amphitheatre of mountains, 
 coming slowly in sight as we rounded the corner of the bay. 
 Mount Etna, though one hundred miles off, was plainly visi- 
 ble, its summit entirely covered with a glittering robe of 
 snow. 
 
 I felt unpleasantly excited as the boats came round the 
 vessel to carry our luggage to the Dogana, for we began to 
 have serious doubts about our chance of obtaining rooms at 
 the Hotel Trinacria (the best in the place), especially when 
 we heard that the Americans had telegraphed from Mar- 
 seilles for apartments. 
 
 One of these (an old man, shunned by his fellow-country- 
 men) landed with us. Both he and his old Scotch servant 
 were characters : the master was very wealthy, having just 
 amassed a large fortune at the oil springs, but he was as dir- 
 ty and shabby as his servant, and that is saying a good deal,
 
 January to April. 21 
 
 and neither could speak a word of any language but their 
 own. Their first intention on starting for their travels had 
 been to go to Jerusalem, but, falling in with the American 
 party on board, they had accompanied them to Palermo. 
 The Scotchman seemed terribly upset by the change of 
 plans, his imagination had been so excited by the idea of 
 visiting the Holy Land. I pitied the poor old man, who 
 looked wretchedly thin and ill; his master seemed to be- 
 grudge every penny he spent on him, and ordered him about 
 as if he had been a boy of fifteen. He was generally to be 
 seen sitting, a woe-begone image of patience, on the luggage, 
 which consisted of three old carpet bags. He certainly had 
 no greater appreciation of the fine arts than his master, who 
 was once overheard telling Robei't to go into the Capitol at 
 Rome to see if there were any thing there that would repay 
 him for the trouble of visiting it. He went, but returned in 
 a few minutes, saying, "There's naething but a wheen naked 
 men and women, sir, and I'm sure you've seen eneuch o' 
 them lately; ye canna want to see ony mair." Robert's 
 opinion was sufficient for his master, who did not even enter 
 to look at the most celebrated statues in the world. 
 
 January 28. My husband's great amusement is in finding 
 out and wandering over old churches. To-day I have been 
 sitting with him among some very fine cloisters, dating from 
 the 12th century, which have lately been discovered. We 
 had to ascend to them through houses, as they had been en- 
 tirely built up and concealed by a high wall ; this wall hav- 
 ing given way, the beautiful pillars were unveiled to view, 
 and the cloisters are now all clear and open. We spent 
 some hours there, enjoying the delicious balmy air, which is 
 much softer and warmer than at Nice, or even at Mentone. 
 I had a long conversation with the wife of the custode while 
 W was climbing over the old walls. With the help of
 
 22 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 two men, who held a ladder supported on crumbling stones, 
 he took some very good pictures. Yesterday I went down 
 into the catacombs of the Capuchin convent ; it was a sicken- 
 ing, horrible sight ; we passed through long, narrow rooms, 
 dimly lighted by windows high up in the walls. The walls 
 are covered with shelves, on which are placed glass cases 
 containing the dried and shrunken forms of men, women, 
 and children, richly ai'rayed in ball-dresses, with wreaths of 
 flowers around their fallen temples, and white shoes and 
 gloves on their shriveled hands and feet. The bodies of 
 men, suspended by the waist, hang round the vaults ; ghast- 
 ly rows of priests, in full canonicals, with their servants by 
 their sides. The inferior station in life of the latter was de- 
 noted, even after death, by the rope round their necks. I 
 clung to my husband's arm as we walked slowly through 
 the ghastly place, startling the cats, which rushed from un- 
 der the shelves in every direction as we approached. 
 
 What a sermon this scene silently preached to us ! Can 
 we believe that, in a few short years, we may present as re- 
 volting an appearance as these horrible grinning figures ? 
 The picture is too terrible to dwell upon. It is, indeed, in 
 mercy and in wisdom that Scripture says, " Bury thy dead 
 out of thy sight," consoling us, at the same time, with the 
 assurance that "the spirit shall return to God who gave it." 
 
 W is never weary of his photography ; all our fellow- 
 travelers envy him this amusement. I sometimes pity them 
 as I see them lounging idly about, while time passes only 
 too quickly with us. 
 
 January 29. To-day, being Sunday, we were present at 
 the English service, held in a large room at the consul's. 
 The congregation numbered about one hundred. After 
 church we walked in the botanical gardens, which are very 
 lovely with their palm-trees and other tropical vegetation.
 
 January to April. 23 
 
 We sat and looked at the blue mountains towering in the 
 distance. 
 
 A day or two ago we had a delightful expedition up 
 Mount Pelegrino, to see a large natural cavern in the lime- 
 stone rock : at the end of the cavern, in the darkest corner, 
 stands an altar, under which, inclosed within a gilded grat- 
 ing, is the marble figure of St. Rosalie, represented as a love- 
 ly girl of fifteen, in a dress of solid gold, ornamented with 
 precious stones. It was a striking scene the dark damp 
 grotto, the water slowly trickling from the roof, and the 
 overhanging ferns, forming a contrast to the marble statue 
 with its glittering ornaments, protected from spoliation by 
 the veneration of the people. Once a year there is a grand 
 procession of all Palermo to this shrine, St. Rosalie being 
 the patron saint of the city. 
 
 January 30. "We have just heard that an eruption of 
 Mount Etna has broken out. A crater has opened at the 
 north of the Veil del JBove, in the district called Concazze, 
 and the lava is steadily creeping down the declivity, de- 
 stroying trees and vineyards. Etna is almost entirely cov- 
 ered with snow. 
 
 February 12. The Hotel Trinacria is most comfortable, 
 and the landlord, Ragusa, very attentive. He is most par- 
 ticular about the people whom he admits to his table d'hote. 
 One Sicilian was turned away because, to my great disgust, 
 he expectorated incessantly while sitting opposite to me at 
 table. This filthy habit is common to all ranks in the isl- 
 and, from the nobleman to the lazaroni. An English friend 
 of ours had basins placed all round her room, with this in- 
 scription, " Qui si sputa.'' 1 The Sicilians and English asso- 
 ciate very little together. The latter complain that the for- 
 mer are such a narrow-minded set ; they think there is no 
 place in the world like Sicily, and no people to be compai-ed
 
 24 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 to the Sicilians. The English colony at Palermo is com- 
 posed of bankers, merchants, and exporters of Marsala wine. 
 They are very amiable and hospitable, and some of them im- 
 mensely wealthy. 
 
 The English clergyman called on us yesterday, and told 
 us a great deal about the priests ; some of them, whom he 
 knew very intimately, were highly educated men, who had 
 traveled a great deal, but were still most contracted in their 
 ideas. He told me it was difficult to argue with them, as 
 their education from childhood ran entirely in one groove, 
 certainly not the Baconian one. They start from the old 
 axioms of the fathers every idea that runs counter to theirs 
 must be wrong. A boy destined for the priesthood is placed 
 in a seminary while still almost an infant, and taught to view 
 every thing through the one-sided medium of a strictly the- 
 ological education. I wish the Church of England would 
 open a school here. It would be permitted by the Italian 
 government. Why should we be behind the Scotch and 
 the French, who are working away hard in the cause of ed- 
 ucation ? 
 
 We visited the museum the other day, and saw some 
 beautiful metopes, carved stones from the tops of temples 
 built five hundred years before the birth of our Savior. 
 There was a lovely statue, too, of Hercules as a young boy. 
 We then went over the Observatory, where there is, among 
 others, a magnificent telescope just arrived from Berlin. 
 Two astronomers were hard at work. It must be a labor 
 of love to watch the brilliant stars in the deep blue Sicilian 
 sky! 
 
 January is considered the best spring month here; the 
 thermometer in our room is at 60 ; and we called yester- 
 day on a lady who picked for me in her garden a lovely 
 bouquet of roses, carnations, and heliotropes.
 
 January to April. 25 
 
 The Marina, the fashionable promenade of Palermo, about 
 half a mile long, is crowded every afternoon with gay equi- 
 pages. The Italians outvie one another in the gaudiness 
 and bad taste of their carnages. I often think it a pity that 
 the lord-mayor's and the sheriffs' state carriages, or that of 
 the Speaker of the House of Commons, can not appear here. 
 They certainly would be looked upon with envy, and create 
 a very great sensation. My English friends tell me that 
 many of the owners of these gay carriages have not a decent 
 room to receive a friend in, and that some of the splendidly- 
 dressed ladies would be sadly embarrassed were a visitor to 
 call upon them in the morning, as neither they nor their 
 houses are then fit to be seen. No one dare venture beyond 
 the gates of the city for fear of the brigands, so their drive 
 is a very limited one about two miles and a half up and 
 down the town and the Marina. It gives me a fit of ennui 
 to look at the paraders, who seem to sacrifice every, thing 
 for the sake of a little display in public. 
 
 I scarcely wonder at an earnest-minded man, or woman 
 either, retiring in disgust from the hollow worldliness of 
 such society, and seeking a refuge in some religious house ; 
 though, perhaps too often, alas ! destined to find more hol- 
 lowness there than they leave behind in the world which 
 wearies them. 
 
 One thing often astonishes me why the inhabitants suf- 
 fer themselves to be prisoners in their town. Why do they 
 not spend some of their surperfluous time and money in 
 clearing their environs from the brigands who infest them ?* 
 
 We spent an evening with the English consul. He was 
 most kind and hospitable, and we thoroughly enjoyed his 
 English tea and his English fireplace. He told us some in- 
 
 * When I wrote this, I little thought how deeply interested I was fated 
 to become in the subject of brigands. 
 
 B
 
 26 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 teresting stories of the siege of Palermo, by Garibaldi, in 
 1860. He was the only Englishman who remained in the 
 town during the bombardment. 
 
 He one day received letters from two abbesses, begging 
 him to come and see the mischief that had been done to 
 their convents by the shells and shot during the storming 
 of the town, that he might report it to the Queen of En- 
 gland, and ask her for redress. The consul was delighted 
 at the invitation, as it gave him an opportunity of seeing the 
 interior of the convents. 
 
 The religious houses occupy the best situations in the 
 town, and it will be the greatest possible benefit to Palermo 
 when they are all suppressed, as they infallibly will be some 
 day. There are 10,000 monks and nuns in Palermo ! There 
 is a great want of good houses in the place, and I am not 
 the least surprised at cholera breaking out among the over- 
 crowded, ill-ventilated habitations. I was horrified to see 
 the places where the children grow up; the streets are 
 high and narrow, and there are neither back windows nor 
 doors to the houses, ventilation being entirely disregarded. 
 Among the deaths in the obituary, half are those of chil- 
 dren ; and poor people will generally tell you that they have 
 lost five or six children by fever. The shopkeepers pass 
 their time lounging at their shop doors, scarcely caring to 
 serve a customer, and not taking the trouble to bring him 
 different articles for selection. You must point to the 
 shelves for what you want, and then they hesitate about 
 taking down the article. 
 
 February 26. The weather for the last month has been 
 wet and stormy for one week it rained incessantly; yes- 
 terday was clear and bright, and we walked five miles off 
 toward Bagaria, to a cliff to gather fossil shells. We quite 
 enjoyed being able to leave the hotel. Our Italian lessons,
 
 January to April. 27 
 
 which we have been taking three times a week, are a great 
 resource to us; but we find it very difficult to understand 
 the Sicilian dialect, which is a mixture of Arabic, French, 
 Spanish, and Italian. All the Italian o's are turned into u's, 
 and the first or last half of the word is clipped according to 
 the fancy of the speaker. 
 
 Our Italian master described to us a scene he had wit- 
 nessed yesterday, which strongly illustrates the Italian char- 
 acter. He was in a church, where lay on a bier the body 
 of a murdered man ; the widow was kneeling by its side, 
 with her little child of three years old in her arms. After a 
 burst of frantic weeping she joined the child's hands togeth- 
 er, and made him repeat after her a solemn oath to the ef- 
 fect that when he grew up he would take deadly vengeance 
 on the murderer's nearest relative. She ended by a solemn 
 and fearful curse on the child should he fail to keep the vow 
 he had taken over the dead body of his father. It is this 
 spirit of revenge which makes it difficult to bring a male- 
 factor to justice ; no one will assist in convicting him for 
 fear of the punishment that so doing might entail on the in- 
 former or his nearest relatives.* 
 
 March 13. We are beginning to prepare for the giro ; 
 two or three parties have already started, who will prepare 
 the way for us. The party at the table d'hote diminishes 
 daily. We have had travelers from all parts of the world ; 
 last week some Brazilians arrived, who assured us that there 
 is no scenery to be compared to that of Rio de Janeiro. 
 Yesterday a Canadian sat by me at dinner, and told me that 
 he was mortified at finding that the English knew so little 
 of his country. One English lady had actually asked him 
 if the Mississippi did not run through Canada ! He will go 
 
 * For instances of the length to which the vendetta is carried in the 
 Mediterranean, Murray's Corsica may be consulted.
 
 28 English Travelers and Italian Brigand's. 
 
 back and declare that Englishwomen are so ignorant :i 
 contrary opinion to that entertained by Italians, who have, 
 generally speaking, a high respect for our countrywomen, 
 on account of their superior education. 
 
 March 16. How interesting to observe the wonderful di- 
 versity of opinions on religious matters ! One lady told me 
 not long ago that Rome was a sink of iniquity a collection 
 of whited sepulchres; and yesterday another, who has join- 
 ed the Church of Rome, gave me as a reason for her conver- 
 sion that she had seen Rome, and that was enough, for it 
 was impossible to resist the influence of a place so calm, so 
 holy, so full of prayer ! 
 
 Yesterday we sailed across the bay to see the stratum of 
 fossil shells in the face of the cliffs exposed to the wearing 
 of the sea ; we collected numbers of them of different kinds. 
 We then walked to an old monastery, but the monks would 
 not admit me, though I said to them in " what I am pleased 
 to think" my best manner, " Non posso far male." They 
 were very polite, however, and brought me a present of cit- 
 rons and limes. Many rich Sicilians are buried in large pits 
 here, into which the body is lowered by the monks ; quick- 
 lime is thrown over it, and in two or three days it is con- 
 sumed. I read the inscriptions of many monumental tab- 
 lets, but not one contained a text from Scripture. How 
 thick a darkness broods over the Roman religion, as profess- 
 ed by the lower orders in Southern Italy and Sicily, owing 
 to the Bible the true source of light being so carefully 
 kept from them by the priests ! The grand burying-place 
 of noble Sicilian ladies is within the walls of a nunnery in 
 the town. The corpse is conveyed thither and given into 
 the hands of the nuns, who dress it in the habit of their or- 
 der, and then place it in their church, where it can be seen 
 for some hours through the windows. It is then buried in
 
 January to April. 29 
 
 the ground attached to the convent, to which no one is ever 
 admitted. A Sicilian friend of ours told us that he had lost 
 his mother two months ago. He and his brother, though 
 poor, determined to show her every respect, and collected a 
 sufficient sum to bury her in this place. We had a very in- 
 teresting conversation with this gentleman on religious mat- 
 ters ; he spoke very bitterly of the priests. We sent him 
 our Prayer-book to read he returned it with many expres- 
 sions of admiration at the simple and " soothing" beauty of 
 our services. 
 
 March 18. We have settled to make the giro of the island 
 in about ten days. We hear a great deal of brigands, and 
 are told that all the peasants carry guns, and the country 
 round Palermo is in a most unsettled state ; but Ragusa 
 and the English consul assure us that we can go with per- 
 fect safety, as four ladies, unaccompanied by a gentleman, 
 have just performed the tour. Before taking the grand 
 tour, we intend making a small one round Monte Pelegrino. 
 
 March 20. Yesterday was beautifully fine. We stepped 
 on to our balcony, saw that Monte Pelegrino stood out 
 clearly against the blue sky, and made up our minds to start 
 on an expedition at half past ten o'clock. I descended to 
 the door of the hotel minus crinoline, expecting to mount a 
 donkey there, but I found it was not considered comme il 
 faut to ride through the town, so we had half an hour's 
 row to the other side of the bay, where the animals were 
 waiting for us. To reach Monte Pelegrino, which presents 
 to the sea a bare precipitous face about 2000 feet high, we 
 had to cross first a carriage-road, and then some fields, 
 thickly planted with beautiful trees. The lowest slopes of 
 the mountain are covered with spurge there a full low 
 shrub of a lovely green and cacti with stems as thick as 
 those of our fruit-trees. The road ends close by the English
 
 30 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 cemetery. There is then only a rough bridle-path, and the 
 mountain seems advancing into the sea. All is rugged and 
 wild no trees, no shrubs, nothing but masses of bare rock. 
 As might be expected, I was nervous about brigands, and 
 my heart bounded when I saw some men with guns ad- 
 vancing to us. However, they were only inoffensive sports- 
 men, and I could concentrate all my attention again on my 
 donkey, which stumbled at every step. We soon rounded 
 the point, and a lovely bay was spread out before us, with 
 high mountains in the distance, and a smooth turf beneath 
 us. We by-and-by came to a large flock of sheep and goats, 
 and the fierce dogs guarding them rushed out upon us. 
 
 The view here was exquisite, but I could not stay to en- 
 joy it, for we saw perched high up on the side of the preci- 
 pice the cave which was the principal object of our expedi- 
 tion. We dismounted, and began climbing the side of the 
 mountain. It was hard work, as the ground was covered 
 
 with large, loose stones, overgrown by creepers. W 
 
 wanted first to examine a lower cave, but as we approached 
 it a huge dog sprang out at the entrance, and growled 
 fiercely at us. I steadily refused to face the enemy, and, 
 after a little dispute, of course had my own way, and recom- 
 menced climbing vigorously, holding on tight to the end of 
 
 W 's umbrella. We heard some one calling loudly to 
 
 us, but could not understand what was said. A tall, hand- 
 some man, clothed in sheepskin, with the wool outside, soon 
 joined us, and offered to lead us to the cave by an easier 
 path. We soon reached it, and were well repaid for our 
 exertions. The arch of the cave was an enormous span 
 of I know not how many feet, and about 800 feet high. 
 Through a small opening at the top we could see the clear 
 blue sky, with two large eagles floating in it. Great stalac- 
 tites were hanging from the roof, and the sides of the cave
 
 January to April. 31 
 
 were tapestried with beautiful creepers and light green 
 spurge. The blue sea was spread before us, and it was long 
 before I could think of any thing but the beauty of the 
 scene on which I was feasting my eyes. 
 
 I was startled by the sudden apparition of another man 
 with a gun. Our guide, divining my thoughts, introduced 
 him as "only my companion." We sat down to eat the 
 few biscuits we had brought with us. This seemed to ex- 
 cite the compassion of our guides, for they immediately 
 offered to lead us to their cave, which they did with tender 
 care, breaking down all the creepers in my path, and mak- 
 ing the way as smooth for me as possible. They placed 
 rough seats for us, covered with their cloaks, and, spread- 
 ing a pocket-handkerchief as a table-cloth, laid out upon it 
 a loaf of bread and a kind of scalded cream called racotta. 
 They entreated us to eat, and we sat by the fire enjoying 
 the scene, surrounded by the four dogs and two men, who 
 talked very readily to us. They remarked with wonder my 
 
 complexion and W 's as being so very different from 
 
 their own. They told us they were shepherds, and this 
 cave was their home. At last, with great regret, we left 
 them, thanking them for their hospitality, and leaving the 
 money, which they refused to take from us, on their pails. 
 "We then returned to our donkeys, and, riding through La 
 Favorita (the king's gardens), reached our hotel about five 
 o'clock. We brought away with us a few fossil teeth and 
 small bones with which these caves abound. W em- 
 ployed two men a few days ago to dig up an enormous 
 shoulder-blade for him, but it broke and cut his finger bad- 
 ly. The cut has since festered, which has damped his ardor 
 in collecting fossil bones. 
 
 March. My fears were not unfounded. The day after 
 our expedition, on the very road we had traversed with
 
 32 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 such pleasure and security, a Sicilian gentleman, driving 
 with a friend, was carried off by brigands. He was quite 
 close to the town, when a break with two horses drove 
 swiftly past him, turned sharply round, and drew up right 
 across the road, stopping his carriage. Eight men with 
 guns jumped from the break, surrounded the carriage, and 
 carried off the Cavaliere Guccia, telling the friend, whom 
 they mistook for a servant, to return to Palermo and pro- 
 cure a certain sum for his master's ransom. The papers 
 took scarcely any notice of this affair. They merely men- 
 tioned that Signor Guccia was sequestered by malfattori. 
 He was liberated in a few days, either by payment of the 
 ransom or through the interest of some rich proprietor said 
 to have power over the band. I made many inquiries, but 
 the whole affair was soon hushed up, and I could obtain but 
 little information. 
 
 The indifference displayed rather shocked our English 
 notions. I could not help thinking of the storm of indigna- 
 tion that would be excited in England were any gentleman 
 in North Devon or Wales, or even in Ireland, to be uncere- 
 moniously separated from his family, and forced to pay half, 
 or perhaps all his fortune, to be restored to them. These 
 atrocious affairs seem to be matters of every-day occurrence 
 here. Only a few weeks ago another case occurred (not 
 mentioned by the newspapers), in which I was so much in- 
 terested that I used to go almost daily to the consul's to 
 hear if the poor man had regained his liberty. A Signor 
 Salemi, returning from Monte Maggiore, near Bagaria, had 
 gone two or three miles, attended by two bordcnari in front, 
 and his own armed servant behind, all on horseback. They 
 were stopped by twenty armed horsemen. The two borde- 
 nari were allowed to escape, but Salemi and his man were 
 blindfolded and taken half an hour's march into the country.
 
 January to April. 33 
 
 The man was then sent back with a message that 1500 
 ounces, or 750, were required by the band. Madame Sa- 
 lemi the next day collected half the amount, which was re- 
 turned to her with a message that it was not sufficient. In 
 a fortnight the required sum was procured. It was re- 
 ceived, counted over, and a receipt sent back by the brig- 
 ands. The next morning, at daybreak, Signor Salemi was 
 placed in the middle of a field, blindfolded, and commanded 
 not to remove the bandage until a signal was given. When 
 he took it off he did not know where he was ; but, seeing a 
 cottage at a distance, he went to it and roused the inmates. 
 They gave him food and a bed, and in the afternoon he was 
 taken to Monte Maggiore. He was so weak that he could 
 hardly stand, as they had given him nothing to eat but 
 bread, herbs, and water. He had lived entirely in the open 
 air, and was kept blindfolded the whole time.* 
 
 We have had several thunder-storms ; and sometimes I 
 get nervous about earthquakes, for Monte Cuccio, the high- 
 est mountain here, is an extinct volcano. At times rum- 
 blings and groans are heard, making one feel that it may 
 break out at any moment. Yesterday there was a change 
 in the appearance of the sky ; a mist hung over the sea, 
 gray as the heavens, but all was still and calm when the 
 
 * During the six months from January to June, several other gentle- 
 men have been taken in the neighborhood of Palermo, and among them 
 Signor Bergami, a most respected corn-broker, and a good friend to all 
 the peasants, who was taken four miles from Palermo. When the brig' 
 ands surrounded him Bergami drew his revolver, which missed fire, but 
 at the same instant one of the thieves thrust at him with a dagger, wound- 
 ing him in two places. That was the extent of the mischief done in hi? 
 case, for the police turned up at this moment, causing the thieves to run 
 away. Scarcely a week passed without a fresh instance, but not one 
 fourth of the cases are ever heard of. It is only when a man of note is 
 taken that any fuss is made. W. I. C. M. 
 
 B2
 
 34 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 fishing-boats went out as usual in the afternoon. We were 
 walking down the street, when there came on such a gale 
 that we were forced to rush home immediately. "We saw 
 from our windows a most exciting scene : the sea was cov- 
 ered with enormous waves ; all the little vessels were try- 
 ing to come into the harbor ; it seemed impossible for them 
 to live in such a storm. The poor fishers' wives and chil- 
 dren assembled on the beach, watching with fearful anxiety 
 each tiny little bark. I was thankful when they one by one 
 got into port, and the poor women went home rejoicing 
 over the safety of their husbands and sons. A French Ad- 
 miral Fitzroy had written to warn the fishermen of this 
 coming Levanter, as these sudden storms are called, but 
 they, too, like many of our own maritime and fishing popu- 
 lation, are so self-willed that they gave no heed to the warn- 
 ing, and the storm found them unprepared. 
 
 It was the king's birthday a day or two ago ; flags were 
 hung out, but there was a very poor illumination. It is no 
 great wonder if his government be not popular among the 
 poor, as so many new taxes have been levied, and the young 
 men are taken away for two years to serve in the army, 
 though the last arrangement is greatly to their advantage, 
 for they are kindly treated, taught to read and write, and to 
 hold themselves erect. They see, too, a little of the world 
 beyond the boundaries of their own town and village, and 
 return to their homes, at all events, with less contracted no- 
 tions than when they left them. 
 
 March 30. The storm has changed the weather; it is 
 lovely to-day, and very hot. The thermometer is at 70 in 
 my room. My husband has been out all day at Monreale, a 
 beautiful old monastery, built in the year 1182 by William 
 of Sicily, and Joanna, sister to our Richard Cceur-de-Lion. 
 lie has been taking photographs of the cloisters. I did not
 
 January to April. 35 
 
 go with him, as no women are allowed to pass the gates of 
 the monastery. The monks, of the Benedictine order, all 
 belong to noble families. They lead any thing but a seclu- 
 ded life, as they keep carriages in which they drive about 
 Palermo, and they take in all the newspapers, etc. They 
 
 invited W to dinner. The wine, grown in their own 
 
 vineyards, was, like the other constituents of the dinner, ex- 
 cellent. One monk, a very handsome, intellectual man, be- 
 came a great friend of my husband's. One day I went up 
 to Monreale, where I was introduced to him. We had a 
 long conversation together, in the course of which he told 
 me he never regretted becoming a monk. I asked him if 
 he ever suffered from ennui. " No, never. I am constant- 
 ly occupied when not engaged in the offices of religion. I 
 employ my time in constructing a steam-engine, a machine 
 to fly through the air, etc. ; but this is a great secret, for not 
 one of my brother monks knows of it." Happy man ! to 
 be so contented. I often think, with Goethe, that the hap- 
 piest man is the cobbler, who sings at his work. 
 
 A titled English lady is working hard here, doing all the 
 good she can, and trying to persuade the Sicilian ladies to 
 visit their poor sisters, who have to struggle with poverty, 
 sickness, and, too often also, with unkind and cruel husbands, 
 and ungrateful children. Oh, if women only knew how oft- 
 en, by a gentle word of sympathy, a disheartened, broken 
 spirit might be soothed, an embittered, overburdened heart 
 softened, nay, even a soul rescued from despair, and strength- 
 ened to struggle again with renewed vigor in the hard bat- 
 tle of life! Hundreds in this world hunger and thirst after 
 this little help, which could be afforded them with ea^o if 
 women would but feel 
 
 ' ' A sense of an earnest will 
 To help the lowly living,
 
 36 English Travelers anM Italian Brigands. 
 
 And a terrible heart-thrill 
 
 If you have no power of giving ; 
 
 An arm of aid to the weak, 
 A friendly hand to the friendless, 
 
 Kind words, so short to speak, 
 But whose echo is endless" 
 
 noble words, in which rings an echo of the feeling that in- 
 spired the Preacher when he told the whole world that 
 " Heaviness in the heart of man maketh it stoop, but a good 
 word maketh it glad." 
 
 March 31. Palermo is like an Oriental town. The shops 
 are open and without windows, and you may see the tailors, 
 shoemakers, tinmen, etc., plying their several crafts almost in 
 the open air. For nearly a month they have been selling 
 strawberries, green peas, etc., in the streets. The climate 
 far surpasses my expectations ; it is exquisite, and so is the 
 scenery. The only drawback is the difficulty of getting into 
 the country, but this does not seem to trouble the inhabit- 
 ants. N"o one, not even the cobbler's wife, walks. The 
 great amusement of all is to be driven slowly up and down 
 the town, which can be done for fivepence. They are all as- 
 tonished at our English love of exercise. We started the 
 other day to walk round Monte Pelegrino, but got caught 
 in a heavy shower of rain at the little fishing village of Vir- 
 gine Maria. The peasants asked us into a cottage about 
 twelve feet wide, and very long, half filled with the tunny 
 nets they were making and preparing for the arrival of the 
 tunny fish in April. 
 
 The large nets are made of grass spun into the thickest 
 string, which they net without needle or mesh, simply twist- 
 ing it round their fingers. The nets, when set, extend for 
 nearly a mile sometimes farther. The tunny fish, which is 
 a perfect monster of the deep, something like the porpoise
 
 January to April. 37 
 
 in shape, and from four to eight feet long, is driven from 
 chamber to chamber in the nets till it enters the corpo, or 
 chamber of death. When the captives are all collected 
 there, the work of death commences ; all the boats of the 
 fishermen for miles round, with much formality at first, but 
 soon in indescribable confusion, surround the fish and slaugh- 
 ter them by hundreds with their spears, till fish, boats, and 
 men are all half smothered with blood. "We were told that 
 it was one of the most horrid spectacles that could be wit- 
 nessed. 
 
 On our way home we passed the Campo Santo, or com- 
 mon burial-place of the town. There is a sufficient number 
 of vaults to allow of one being opened every other day. 
 The dead, to the number of twenty or thirty (in a town of 
 200,000 inhabitants), are collected every day, and at twenty- 
 two o'clock, or two hours before sunset, they are thrown in ; 
 quick-lime is scattered over them, and the vault sealed up 
 till its turn comes round again in a year. We met several 
 bodies being carried on the way to their long home. The 
 coffins are not shaped like ours, but are simply oblong boxes, 
 sometimes black, but generally red and green, with colored 
 effigies of saints painted on them. 
 
 Half the deaths are among very young children. You 
 may constantly see a man walking along very quickly with 
 a small red oblong box slung behind his shoulders by a piece 
 of cord ; he reaches the dead-house, puts the box down out- 
 side the door, opens the lid, and takes the body carelessly 
 out. If it has clothing on worth any thing, the attendant 
 harpies seize it as their spoil, and then throw the corpse on 
 the ground, while the box is carried back by the man who 
 brought it. We saw one body being carried in a black se- 
 dan-chair by two men, who, before going up a little hill, left 
 the body in the middle of the road while they went into a
 
 38 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 wine-shop to drink. After the dead are taken from their 
 homes, the relatives never see them; there is no service 
 read over them ; the priest simply sprinkles the bodies with 
 holy water before they are flung down a hole two feet squai-e 
 into the vault beneath, in a few hours after which lime re- 
 solves them into their primary elements. 
 
 The English burial-ground joins the Campo Santo, but is 
 very different. It is filled with flowers, ornamental trees 
 and shrubs, with a large stone opposite the gateway, on 
 which are inscribed texts from the Holy Scriptures in En- 
 glish and Italian. The monuments, with their words of 
 holy comfort and hope, give a very different impression to 
 that of the Italian ones, where one never reads any thing 
 but a long catalogue of the virtues, real or imaginary, of 
 those to whose memory they are erected. 
 
 March 29. We intend starting for our giro to-morrow. 
 Many of our friends have advised us not to go ; others tell 
 us that it is quite safe, as English people are never taken ; 
 but when I ask them " would you go ?" they seem to think 
 that is quite another affair. As I mentioned before, neither 
 the rich Sicilians nor the English residents dare drive half 
 a mile out of the town. I do not know why the tourists 
 and people belonging to the hotels are safe. I sometimes 
 think the hotel-keepers pay black mail to the brigands. 
 The people stopping with us at the Trinacria took long ex- 
 peditions over the mountains, and were never molested. 
 
 W and I take long walks into the country and always 
 
 return safe a thing no Sicilian would do. The gardener 
 of the Palazzo Serra di Falco told us that his mistress rare- 
 ly came now to see the garden, in which she had formerly 
 taken such delight, though it is not more than a quarter of 
 an hour's drive from the town ! 
 
 Wo were told the other day the story of the capture of
 
 January to April. 39 
 
 Mr. , an English merchant, two or three years ago. 
 
 He was driving with his daughter about a mile from Paler- 
 
 o o 
 
 mo, when the carriage was suddenly surrounded by six men, 
 who threatened to shoot him if he did not get out of the 
 carriage quietly and go with them. He pretended at first 
 not to understand them, and spoke to them in English ; but 
 they said " it is no use trying to deceive us ; you can speak 
 
 Sicilian quite as well as we can, Mr. ; come with us 
 
 directly." He, seeing resistance was useless, went with 
 them, leaving his daughter in the carriage with the coach- 
 man, surrounded by men who kept pointing their guns at 
 them if they dared to move. The bandits dragged poor 
 
 Mr. , who is a large, stout man, over walls, fields, and 
 
 ditches, until at last he fell through fatigue, and said he 
 would go no farther. They then all sat down, and began 
 steadily bargaining with him for his ransom. He was to 
 sign a paper for 1000, but this he positively refused to do. 
 They then asked 500, which he declared he would not 
 give ; then 200, and at last it was settled that he should 
 bring 50 himself on the following morning, and deposit it 
 on a certain stone in a field which they pointed out to him. 
 He was then allowed to depart, after solemnly promising 
 
 that the money should be forthcoming. Poor Miss 
 
 sat in the mean time in the carriage in the most terrible 
 anxiety, crying bitterly. The brigands hid themselves be- 
 hind the wall, on the top of which the muzzles of their guns 
 could be seen pointing at the carriage. She did not dare 
 drive on, as the brigands told her if she did so it would be 
 at the peril of her life. A priest and some other men passed, 
 but took no notice of her. At last a cart drove up with 
 several men armed with guns sitting in it. They stopped 
 
 and asked Miss why she was in such distress. She 
 
 told her sad story, and they advised her to drive home di-
 
 40 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 rectly, as it was dangerous for her to stay outside the town. 
 She tried to persuade them to follow the brigands and to 
 rescue her father; but this they steadily refused to do. 
 They kept entreating her to drive on, but she said she dared 
 not do so, as the guns of the brigands were still pointing at 
 her. She wanted to point out the guns to these men, but 
 they immediately hushed her with gestures of great alarm, 
 and drove away. She at last, summoning up courage to fol- 
 low their advice, drove swiftly back to the town, to carry 
 the sad news to her family ; the soldiers immediately turn- 
 ed out and scoured the country. Mr. returned in the 
 
 evening. Many men were taken up on suspicion and 
 
 thrown into prison. Mr. was asked to go and try to 
 
 identify them : this was endangering his own life, however ; 
 for, had he been the instrument of their conviction, their re- 
 lations would have shot him ; so he declared he knew none 
 of them, and they were consequently released. In a few 
 
 days several men called on Mr. to thank him, and his 
 
 watch was returned to him.
 
 April 3 to 11. 41 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 APKIL 3 TO 11. 
 
 Messina. Italian Hotels. How to avoid Disputes. Shaving at Mes- 
 sina. The Environs of the Place. The Camera taken for an Infer- 
 nal Machine. The Prison. Taormina. View of Etna in Eruption. 
 The active Craters at Night. Our Servant. A Wedding at Taor- 
 mina. A truly volcanic Soil. Linguagrossa. The Albergo di Etna. 
 First Ascent of the Mountain. Our Guides. The moving Lava. 
 Destruction of the Forests. Inquisitiveness of our Guides. The Brig- 
 and Signs. 
 
 Messina, April 3. WE got very tired of Palermo, and as 
 the weather was so bad that it was useless to attempt the 
 giro along the roads, we took the steamer at five o'clock 
 one afternoon, and arrived here at six o'clock the following 
 morning. It has been raining hard to-day. We seem per- 
 secuted by bad -weather, as in March it rained for twenty- 
 four consecutive days. Our hotel (the Trinacria again) is 
 comfortable, and the charges very moderate twenty francs 
 a day, including servants and candles, a sitting-room and 
 bedroom. We settled the prices with the landlord before 
 we agreed to remain. The only way to get on at the Ital- 
 ian hotels is to bargain beforehand. Those who pay the 
 price demanded are despised as well as imposed upon. 
 
 This town is quite a modern one, as it has been frequent- 
 ly destroyed both by earthquakes and bombardments. It 
 is now a thriving sea-port, full of life and activity ; nearly 
 all the steamers trading in the Mediterranean put into the 
 harbor, which is sheltered by a strip of land in the shape of
 
 42 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 a crescent. The view across the straits, with the mountains 
 of Calabria in the distance, is charming, and I am never 
 tired of watching from my window the animated groups 
 collected round the fine fountain on the opposite side of the 
 road. Above the fountain is a colossal statue of Neptune, 
 calm and majestic, looking as if he had just risen from his 
 watery realm. His large beard is dripping, and at his feet, 
 chained, lie two large female figures, representing Scylla 
 and Charybdis, with faces distorted by passion. 
 
 The barbers here ply their busy trade, and seem hardly 
 to have time to attend to their numerous customers, every 
 coachman, tailor, and beggar of the town coming here in 
 turn to be shaved. The dirtiest old beggar, with only a 
 few straggling gray hairs on his head, his body covered 
 with filthy rags, will sit down in the sun, and, with up- 
 turned face, give himself up to ten minutes of thorough 
 enjoyment while a gentle and dexterous hand lathers his 
 withered cheeks, and with a sharp razor removes all " su- 
 perfluous" hairs, and sends him back again to society, if not 
 a better, at least a cleaner man. 
 
 April 4. We have just returned from a delightful expedi- 
 tion to a very old Norman abbey, built in the middle of a 
 torrent, about three miles from the town. The water has 
 washed such a quantity of rubbish into it that its beautiful 
 doors and pillars are nearly buried. On each side of the 
 torrent rise high walls of rock, overshadowing the building. 
 We sat here for two hours, and I amused myself by watch- 
 ing the women climb the steep sides of one of these mount- 
 ains, with large baskets on their heads, their heavily-laden 
 mules following them. To my dismay, I was told that, 
 when the pictures were taken, I should have to climb quite 
 
 as steep a hill. While W was photographing, several 
 
 young men passed, and I asked them to stand to enliven the
 
 April 3 to 11. 43 
 
 pictures, but they all declined, and evidently thought that 
 the camera, on which they looked with the greatest fear, 
 contained an evil spirit. They had never seen such an ap- 
 paratus before. At last I persuaded one bolder than the 
 rest, and "W took his portrait standing against the pic- 
 turesque old building. When the pictures were all satis- 
 factorily taken, the basket containing the apparatus was put 
 on the back of a donkey, and we began to ascend the hill. 
 It was a regular clamber, but I was well repaid by the mag- 
 nificent view when we reached the summit. 
 
 The Straits of Messina, the snow-capped mountains of 
 Calabria, and the town, with its strong fortresses, were all 
 mapped out before us. On the other side was the blue 
 Mediterranean, stretching far away to the horizon. Strom- 
 boli and the other Lipari Islands were plainly visible, the 
 former puffing up tall columns of smoke. I sat down to rest 
 on the short sweet turf, and could scarcely tear myself away 
 from the lovely scene. Our carriage met us here, and we 
 drove back to Messina by a zigzag road down the mount- 
 ain, catching at intervals the same beautiful view, while on 
 one side of the road were large groups of trees, banks of 
 moss, and wild flowers in profusion, cyclamens, enormous 
 violets, and quantities of white heather. The air was per- 
 fumed by the sweet scent of the flowers. 
 
 April 5. Yesterday we visited a very old tower called 
 Rocca Guelfonia, and had to go through part of the prison 
 to reach it, four or five soldiers escorting us. It was a sad 
 sight to see the prisoners staring at us like wild beasts from 
 behind their iron gratings, which are often double. Some 
 were walking up and down for exercise on a very small 
 roof with iron railings all around. Many of the faces made 
 one shudder, every evil passion seeming to have set its seal 
 upon them. The soldiers had all honest, open countenances
 
 44 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 and gentle manners, and would not accept the money we 
 offered them, neither would they allow the porter at the 
 gate to take any. I saw such young children, not more 
 than five or six years old, working hard at breaking stones, 
 or leading horses, and engaged in many other kinds of 
 work. 
 
 Taormina, April 7. We have engaged a very good car- 
 riage, with three horses, for twenty francs a day, which is to 
 include all expenses, and in this vehicle we have driven 
 along the coast. The road, which winds close to the sea, is 
 very lovely, bordered by orchards, some in full leaf, others 
 in blossom, their pink flowers standing out in bright relief 
 against the snowy background of the mountains. The coun- 
 try is thickly populated, and we drove through numbers of 
 villages, the houses generally of stone, two stories high, but 
 without glass in the windows, which were closed with wood- 
 en shutters only. The people looked very happy and indus- 
 trious, with honest, good-natured faces ; the young girls had 
 all fine features, but very dark complexions. We went into 
 one house where they were making vases and jars ; my 
 dress, as I went in, upset two large ones at the doorway. I 
 expected to hear the smash, but, on looking round, saw that 
 the jars had merely altered their shape, and were all bent 
 on one side, the clay being still wet and pliable. Our hotel 
 has only just been opened in the centre of the town ; the 
 accommodation is miserable, but the view magnificent, with 
 Mount Etna exactly opposite the window ; but, alas ! the 
 pleasure to one sense is counterbalanced by the misery to 
 another, for one of the black streams so common in Sicily, 
 into which runs all the drainage of the town, flows down the 
 middle of the street, just under our windows. 
 
 We can get no meat here, nor any thing eatable except 
 macaroni. The town is eight hundred feet above the level
 
 April 3 to 11. 45 
 
 of the sea, the road up to it is a very steep ascent, and was 
 only made a year ago by the command of Prince Hum- 
 bert. The view from it is very fine, and we were fortunate 
 in having a clear day, which allowed us to see Mount Etna 
 towering in its lofty grandeur to the height of eleven thou- 
 sand feet, its summit and great part of its base covered with 
 snow, and volumes of smoke ascending from the crater. We 
 saw two new cones, which looked at night like huge bon- 
 fires. This view of the mountain is most sublime ; it seems 
 to fill nearly the whole horizon, standing alone in all its un- 
 earthly might. We could scarcely sleep the first night, but 
 stood at the window watching the flaming cones. 
 
 We spent yesterday at the old Greek theatre, which is 
 built on a high hill ; the pillars are of granite, which must 
 have been brought from Egypt, as there is none in Italy. 
 We have engaged a servant, who speaks tolerable English ; 
 he is most handy and useful, and generally looks neat, al- 
 though he contrives to travel without any luggage, carrying 
 not even a small bag. 
 
 The dirt is terrible, but so it is every where in Sicily. 
 We carry our own sheets with us, made in the shape of 
 bags to tie round the throat. Without this precaution we 
 should never have been able to sleep at all, nor would there 
 have been much of us left by this time. 
 
 April 9. The town was in a state of great excitement to- 
 day on account of the marriage of the richest man in the 
 place with a young girl who came straight from the con- 
 vent to the church. After the ceremony she changed her 
 dress, and putting on a gay red jacket, a hat with feathers, 
 etc., paraded, with the bridegroom, up and down the town, 
 her friends walking in procession behind her. We met 
 them, and bowed to the biide, who was not at all pretty. 
 
 We have just returned from a lovely walk. The sun had
 
 46 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 sunk behind the hills, but still lighted up the top of Mount 
 Etna, gilding the transparent smoke which rose from the 
 crater, and floated away in fantastic wreaths above the 
 clouds which hung in dark masses below. We were walk- 
 ing in a deep valley, between the mountains, covered with 
 trees and vineyards. A stream ran far beneath us to the 
 sea, which was of the loveliest and deepest blue, the white 
 sails of the boats looking like large sea-birds floating over 
 the surface. The blackbird, now heard for the first time 
 since I left England, was singing sweetly ; all else was 
 hushed and cairn. I can not describe the soothing influ- 
 ence of the lovely hour and scene. On reaching the water, 
 the charm was broken by the horrible smell rising from it, 
 or rather from the mud and water-plants which grew by it, 
 whose fetid odor often occasions destructive fevers. 
 
 This side of the island is most fertile and densely popu- 
 lated. After the lapse of years has rendered the lava brit- 
 tle and easily pulverized, vegetation will spring up luxuri- 
 antly, and villages are built over the ashes of former ones, 
 the inhabitants thinking little of the ruin that may, at any 
 moment, overwhelm themselves. 
 
 On every side of the mountain are corn-fields and vine- 
 yards, and luxuriant groves of olive and almond trees, plant- 
 ed on land entirely reclaimed from the lava, which crops out 
 now and then in all its hideous blackness and sterility, either 
 in low mounds or huge rocks, whose bare and rugged sides 
 mark the course which the river of molten fire took centu- 
 ries ago, destroying ancient corn-fields and vineyards as fer- 
 tile and beautiful as those which now rejoice the eye with 
 their luxuriant growth. "Every where by the side of. pres- 
 ent happiness and wealth we see the phantom of past deso- 
 lation and misery, making us tremble for the future." 
 Trouble and sorrow are so like this lava ; they sweep over
 
 April 3 to 11. 47 
 
 the human heart, leaving it to all appearance bare and 
 scorched like the sides of the mountains. Years roll by, 
 and as from the lava-covered plains rich fruits spring up 
 in all their luxuriant beauty, so, "though now chastening 
 seemeth not to be joyous, but grievous, nevertheless after- 
 ward it yieldeth the peaceable fruits of righteousness." 
 
 April 11.* Having determined to make a close inspec- 
 tion of this new eruption, which had broken out during the 
 month of January, and had continued incessantly ever since, 
 we started from Taormina at six o'clock in the morning, in 
 a carriage with three horses harnessed abreast, according to 
 the custom of the country. We had been strongly advised 
 not to stop at Piediinonte (where most of the people who 
 had visited the new craters had taken up their quarters), 
 but to go four miles farther, to an equally miserable town 
 rejoicing in the name of Linguagrossa, supposed to be de- 
 rived from the rustic dialect of its inhabitants. 
 
 The course the lava was now taking rendered it neces- 
 sary for all those starting from the former town to go round 
 to the westward of the district devastated by the fiery 
 stream ; and to do this, the four miles of road to Lingua- 
 grossa had to be traversed, which we thought might be 
 done more comfortably in a carriage than on the backs of 
 mules. At Linguagrossa we took up our quarters at the 
 Albergo di Etna, and we soon came to the conclusion that 
 Linguagrossa was the most miserable looking collection of 
 houses we had ever seen. Not only were the houses black 
 from being built of lava, but every thing was black, land 
 and all ; the soil was nothing more than the lava pulverized 
 by the action of the weather on it for centuries. One hill, 
 however, to the north of the town, was an exception, being 
 
 * The narrative is here taken up ny me from my diary. W. J. 
 C. M.
 
 48 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 composed of red lava, which only served to make the rest 
 of the land around look blacker. 
 
 Our arrival seemed to afford great amusement to the 
 crowd lounging about the door of the hostelry. They were 
 especially diverted with the weight of my wife's portman- 
 teau, which required two men to carry it, as it was half filled 
 with glass ready for pictures, my dutiful wife having, in a 
 most exemplary manner, sacrificed half the space allotted to 
 her wardrobe for the sake of her husband's negatives. 
 
 We had been rather dismayed at the hotel at Taorminn, 
 but on entering the Albergo di Etna I confess my heart 
 
 sank, and A looked the picture of despair. We had 
 
 the choice of two rooms, each of which had beds in all four 
 corners ; and we were told that if more travelers came we 
 should have to share our room with the new-comers, but 
 this we declared impossible ; so the spectacled landlord said 
 as there was a lady in the case he would break his rule for 
 once. The best room, looking into the street, was declared 
 uninhabitable on account of the fearful smell of burning fat 
 occasioned by cooking on a braciera or pan of live charcoal, 
 which is the only fire used by the natives of Sicily. A table 
 was carried into the other, and we waited impatiently for 
 our dinner, which was being cooked, while the landlord was 
 ordering and preparing the mules and guides to the nuovo 
 fuoco, as the place of the eruption is termed. 
 
 We arrived at 12 30, and by two o'clock we had dis- 
 patched part of the tiny saddle of mutton we had bought 
 en route. (It never does to trust to the resources of a town 
 in this part of the world on the first day of an arrival.) On 
 the announcement that the mules were ready, we descended 
 into the street, and found four animals and three guides 
 the head guide, we afterward learned, was a brigand, under 
 whose care our party was considerately placed by the land-
 
 April 3 to 11. 49 
 
 lord, who told him he would be held responsible for our 
 safety. He was a most villainous-looking fellow of most 
 abhorred aspect, " by the hand of nature marked, quoted, 
 and signed to do a deed of shame." He was accompanied 
 by a boy, and a very good-looking youth about twenty 
 years of age, who devoted himself to A all the time. 
 
 The first three quarters of an hour we passed between 
 lava Avails, the land on either side cultivated in a rough 
 style as corn-fields, filbert-woods, or vineyards. We no- 
 ticed, too, that although the vines at Taormiua were begin- 
 ning to show the new shoots, here, at 1800 feet above the 
 level of the sea, they did not give the slightest signs of the 
 approach of summer. "We passed along deep ravines, or 
 lava-nullahs (if I may be allowed to use such a word) chis- 
 eled out by the fiery torrents in days gone by, the appear- 
 ance of the country growing blacker still, and wiUer, as wo 
 ascended. The winter torrents had, in places, cut the solid 
 lava into curious ridges parallel to each other, while scat- 
 tered about were many craters that had caused devastation 
 hundreds of years ago. 
 
 Sixteen hundred feet above Linguagrossa the woody re- 
 gion begins, the forests consisting of enormous oak-trees. 
 Here were congregated a number of charcoal-burners, who 
 lived in rude huts, on which were placed branches of fir- 
 trees to keep off the rain, and outside each hut was a large 
 block of snow placed on a slab of lava; the water from the 
 snow, as it thawed, dripped into a barrel. The men were 
 exceedingly wild-looking, and had very large axes, which 
 they were wielding vigorously, but all oeased their labors 
 to watch our cavalcade pass by. I observed that they had 
 fierce dogs for their companions, like the men on Monte 
 Pelegrino. 
 
 The scorza, or track, was here so steep that A had at 
 
 C
 
 50 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 times to cling to the neck of her mule. We now saw firs 
 mingled with oaks. The latter, according to my aneroid 
 barometer, did not grow at a higher altitude than 2600 feet 
 above Linguagrossa (or 4325 feet above the level of the 
 sea). Some of these oaks were very large, being fifteen feet 
 in circumference. The firs were also of great size, being 
 nine feet round, and rising straight up to a great height. 
 
 After continuing our adventurous way through this lone- 
 ly region for the space of two hours and a half, we heard 
 the noise of more wood-cutters hard at work. These proved 
 to be men engaged in saving the trees that were in the line 
 of the lava's course. The stream was now moving fast 
 down the mountain, having advanced one hundred yards 
 since yesterday. My barometer at Linguagrossa reported 
 28'50, my thermometer 58 ; here the former showed 25-60, 
 the latter 42, indicating that the spot where the molten 
 stream had arrived was about 4725 feet above the sea level. 
 
 The first sight of the moving mass of lava was truly mar- 
 velous, and baffles description. In some places it was a mile 
 wide, and about twenty-five feet high, and from the main 
 stream ran a number of smaller ones, like huge railway em- 
 bankments. The surface of the side toward us was black 
 in color, and as the mass swept on in its remorseless march 
 with horrible crackling sound, lighting up the grand old 
 trees before devouring them, the upper surface was gently 
 raised by the molten matter running underneath, and the 
 scoria fell over the sides, emitting a fearfully lurid glare. 
 
 It was difficult to approach very close, on account of the 
 intense heat. I detached a piece of red-hot lava with a 
 long stick, and forced a franc into it to keep as a memento 
 of our visit, but in one minute it swelled up, and, passing 
 off in fumes, disappeared, while all the natives laughed at 
 our looks of dismay.
 
 April 3 to 11. 51 
 
 We saw several large firs that had been enveloped by the 
 fiery stream, and as we watched we saw them fall with a 
 crash, their trunks having been eaten through by the hot 
 lava, and they were then carried with the stream on the top 
 of the scoria. I noticed that when the lava lost its red heat 
 it was still impossible to break it, from its tenacious charac- 
 ter; but as it grew cold it was quite brittle. The scoria 
 here was not in very large pieces like that of Mount Vesu- 
 vius, where it is in shape of slabs, but was in roundish lumps 
 from six inches to a foot long. Just above where we were 
 the lava had taken a sharp turn, and it was expected to run 
 down a valley full of large trees; the owners of the wood 
 were here with fifty men, cutting down and dragging the 
 stems out of the expected course of the devouring element. 
 Oxen were attached to the log in a curious way ; a bar was 
 simply placed under their humps, and to the ropes from 
 this were fastened large spikes, which were driven into the 
 wood. The faces of the proprietors showed their distress 
 of mind, and they complained bitterly of the ill fortune that 
 had overtaken them ; luckily, however, they had buyers for 
 the wood they were cutting, as the new railway from Mes- 
 sina to Catania required large quantities of it for sleepers. 
 
 It was with great difficulty that we tore ourselves away 
 from this scene of new sensations ; but we were getting 
 faint with the great heat, and it was late, and we did not 
 wish to run the risk of being out in the dark in this wild 
 region. Before leaving, however, we quite made up our 
 minds to visit the mouths of the new craters the next day, 
 which were two hours' climb higher up the mountain, the 
 lava having already run about ten miles from the mouth of 
 the fissure, where it issues from the mountain side. It was 
 twenty minutes past five when we turned our faces home- 
 ward ; we soon experienced the discomfort of riding down
 
 52 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 places almost as steep as a staircase, but the mules \vere 
 sure-footed, and we could only hold on tight and trust in 
 Providence. 
 
 On our way down the head guide explained to me the 
 brigands' signs, which are always made to each other in 
 meeting. The eyes twisted to the left, and a slight toss of 
 the head upward, show that the travelers are of the same 
 trade, and that some work is in hand ; the hand extended, 
 with the fingers turned up, meant "take him prisoner;" the 
 same, with the fingers turned down, signified " kill him." 
 Our guides were curious to know whether the signorina 
 was going up to the bocce to-morrow which route we 
 should take, and where we were going afterward. I was 
 annoyed when I heard that our man, Giuseppe, had told 
 them to Randazzo. \Ve had contented ourselves with say- 
 ing Catania, to which town there were two roads, without 
 informing them that we intended to choose the one through 
 Randazzo. 
 
 It was dark an hour before reaching our resting-place, but 
 a moon nearly at the full helped us on our way, and, arrang- 
 ing for fresh mules the next day, we went early to bed in 
 order to prepare for the hard work before us.
 
 April 12 to May. 53 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 APRIL 1 2 TO MAY. 
 
 Linguagrossa. Second Ascent of Etna. The Brigand Signs are made 
 to our Guide. The Snow-line. The active Craters. Photography 
 under Difficulties. My first Adventure with Brigands. A narrow 
 Escape. We change our Plans. A little Disappointment for the 
 Brigands. Catania. Good Friday. Processions in Southern Italy. 
 Change at Naples since 1860. Benedictine Monastery. Syracuse. 
 The old Theatre. The Cathedral. The Catacombs. Fruit and 
 Flowers. Girgenti. The Cattiva Gente. Kindness of the Consul. 
 Our Hotel. The Excavations in the Neighborhood. Dispute with 
 our Host. Unexpected Decision of the Referee. Italian Officers and 
 their Families en voyage. 
 
 April 12, 1865. THE next morning we were up by five 
 o'clock, having spent rather a sleepless night from the ex- 
 citement of seeing what we had talked about so long and 
 with so much interest. We made as good a breakfast as 
 we could manage to procure, and at about six started again 
 over the same ground as yesterday. There was to-day an- 
 other mule, on which was placed the square basket contain- 
 ing my photographic apparatus, which was at last secured, 
 after great wrangling among the four men who accompanied 
 us. Two of the guides were the same as yesterday, and the 
 others were brothers of the good-looking youth (by name 
 Pepi) who attended so carefully to my wife's safety. 
 
 When we had been on our way about half an hour pass- 
 ing numbers of women carrying heavy loads of wood we 
 met two men carrying axes in their hands. I saw them 
 make the signs to Pepi which I had been taught the day be-
 
 54 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 fore, including the extended hand, whereupon I laughingly 
 said " All three alike." They looked rather surprised, and 
 replied, " You know too much." I did not like this at all ; 
 but as the two men were going toward the town, I determ- 
 ined to go on, keeping, however, a sharp look-out all the way 
 up. About two miles from the spot where we had seen the 
 lava yesterday afternoon, we turned off a little to the right, 
 passing through the dense forest of fir-trees ; and here we 
 first noticed the ground covered with a fine black dust, 
 which had been carried by the wind from the new craters. 
 "We now came to the snow-line, and great care was neces- 
 sary in passing the ravines, all of which were full of soft 
 snow, in which the mules sank to their knees, and it re- 
 quired great exertion on the part of the guides to extricate 
 them and get them over safely. The dust got thicker and 
 thicker as we ascended. We passed a large tract where all 
 the branches of the trees had been consumed by fire, leav- 
 ing the gaunt stems blackened by its action. 
 
 At about ten o'clock we reached Monte Crisimo, an old 
 crater about 150 feet high, and very steep. On ascending 
 this, the scene of devastation and fury of the elements burst 
 on us ; it was a fearful sight, and the awful roar proceeding 
 from the then active craters completely deafened us. The 
 smoke rose in dense masses, but fortunately a northern 
 wind blew both it and the stones and dust, which were con- 
 stantly being thrown up, away from us in the opposite di- 
 rection. 
 
 About one hundred yards from the crater on which we 
 were was the lava that had already destroyed all in its 
 course. Here the mass was from forty to sixty feet high, 
 and, according to our guide, extended one mile across. It 
 was a curious sight, its whole surface cracked and distorted 
 into all kinds of shapes, bearing upon it numerous trunks of
 
 April 12 to May. 55 
 
 trees that had succumbed to the force of the fiery stream, 
 and now lay extended like giants on its cooled surface. 
 
 The longer we looked the more awe-struck we became; 
 the two nearer craters were belching forth steam and smoke, 
 making a noise like that of great waves breaking on a shin- 
 gle shore, or like the noise of all the engines in the world 
 letting off their steam, while a lambent sulphurous vapor 
 kept playing over various circular patches on the northern 
 sides. This vapor appeared by daylight a yellowish color, 
 but at night we were told it was a dull red flame. 
 
 The smoke was not constant, but rose every five or ten 
 minutes. It would come up in dense clouds and curl round 
 the craters, and then in two or three minutes rise in the air, 
 leaving the two mouths visible, which were in the form of 
 perfect circles w r ith one side depressed. I took two views 
 from this spot, using the water which the men had brought 
 up with them (as they thought for drinking purposes). As 
 I was finishing the second picture, I saw, to my dismay, the 
 two men we had met before with axes approaching, but now 
 they were armed with guns. I immediately sent Giuseppe, 
 our servant, to A , who, on seeing the new-comers, re- 
 treated to the top of the old crater. The two men now 
 came up and began whispering to the guides. I at this put 
 my hand in my side-pocket, so as to be ready to use my 
 revolver at a moment's notice if requisite ; and, not to ap- 
 pear afraid, I approached the new-comers and said a word 
 to them, when, to my delight, they said "good-day," and 
 left us. 
 
 I now took another picture, and A came down from 
 
 the hill to me. In a few minutes who should appear but 
 the men who had just gone away, but this time they had 
 five or six more with them, all armed as the others, and 
 wearing: belts round their waists. These men all came and
 
 56 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 stood close behind me as I had my head under the black 
 cloth, while developing the view of the lava I had just taken, 
 and I do not think a photograph was ever taken under 
 more disturbing influences. I really did not know what to 
 do ; and, to get them away from the position they had taken 
 close to me, I made Giuseppe, who was in an awful fright 
 and pretended to be asleep, tell them to sit down a little 
 way off, while I, without their knowledge, took a capital 
 picture of them. 
 
 A , fortunately, had not the slightest idea what these 
 
 men were, and as a joke she sat down by them, pretending 
 to be a captive in the hands of brigands. Little did she 
 think that, instead of a joke, it was reality, and that these 
 men had come up all this way on purpose to rob and mur- 
 der us, thinking I was an engineer because of my photo- 
 graphic apparatus and barometer. In this part of the world 
 all engineers are considered millionaires, for the ignorant 
 people think that they are the persons who employ so many 
 hundreds of workmen, and that they make the railways 
 with their own private funds. Fortunately, as we after- 
 ward found out, our guides had felt the weight of our lug- 
 gage at the inn in the town below, and Giuseppe having 
 told them that we were going to Randazzo, they thought it 
 would be more profitable to take us, luggage and all, the 
 next day, while on our road in the carriage. We now had 
 luncheon, and when this was eaten, I had the satisfaction of 
 seeing our new friends depart, but only after a great deal 
 of confidential talk with the men who had come up with us. 
 
 I now insisted that we should be taken nearer to the 
 mouths of the craters, to which at first the men would not 
 agree ; but on my persisting, we started off on foot, two of 
 the guides carrying the photographic box. We walked 
 along the side of the lava for nearly a mile over the snow
 
 April 12 to May. 57 
 
 which here lay on the ground, though covered with the 
 black dust from the eruption to the depth of from four to 
 twelve inches. The first layer of dust had been live ashes, 
 some of them an inch each way in size. It was very close- 
 ly packed, and would probably keep the snow from thaw- 
 ing all the summer. Pepi and I supported A between 
 
 us, nil three of us sometimes sinking in the snow to our 
 knees. At last we found out that it was only where the 
 dust was wet that the surface was unsafe, and after this dis- 
 covery we got on better. 
 
 As we got closer, the wild grandeur and thunder of the 
 mouths increased, and the noise was fearful, quite stopping 
 all conversation. A little to the west of the two most act- 
 ive craters was a hill, or rather mountain, 1000 feet high, 
 that had been thrown up (as we were told) in two or three 
 days at the commencement of the eruption. This was quite 
 black in color, with patches of yellow (probably sulphur) 
 in several places. From the summit of this large crater 
 light vapor was always ascending, and every now and then 
 enormous black clouds of smoke would cover the top. The 
 wood in this direction had suffered much, only the tall stems 
 of the fir-trees being left, where the lava had not utterly de- 
 stroyed them. It was a most wild and desolate sight, and 
 made fine studies for my camera, by the aid of which I se- 
 cured, with great difficulty, some very striking views. 
 
 The work was most fatiguing, for I had to go to expose 
 the plates at least 300 yards from where I had put up the 
 developing box, and running over the treacherous surface 
 of snow and dust was most tiring. I do not think that any 
 amateur ever worked harder. I felt, however, that I should 
 never have such a chance again, and. was stimulated by the 
 knowledge that no one but M. Andrieu, whom w r e had met 
 at Messina, had ever photographed such a scene, and by the 
 
 C 2
 
 58 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 wish of sustaining the honor of England, by getting, if pos- 
 sible, better negatives than those which my rival had shown 
 me. On completing my labors, I was so exhausted that I 
 drank with avidity a little distilled water which I found 
 among my chemicals, and I would gladly have given a Na- 
 poleon an ounce for some more. It was now time to return, 
 but before doing so we took one more look at this wild and 
 fascinating scene. Behind the great crater to the left Mount 
 Etna raised its lofty head, about 5000 feet higher than the 
 spot where we were, covered with the purest snow, listen- 
 ing in majestic silence to the roaring of its youngest born. 
 
 The new eruption had taken place just at the termination 
 of the woody region. Five craters in all, we were told, had 
 given vent to the subterranean fires, but, at the time of our 
 visit, two of them had ceased to be active. 
 
 We now hurried back to our mules, and packing all our 
 impedimenta, mounted, and began our course homeward. 
 
 The excitement of the craters had in the interval made 
 me forget the brigands, who, I felt sure, were not far off; 
 but the behavior of our guides now renewed my apprehen- 
 sions. Instead of talking to me continually as before, they 
 were quite silent, and would hardly answer my most trivial 
 question, and they were constantly wandering on each side 
 ahead of the party. I do not think I ever spent a more un- 
 comfortable time ; for uncertainty is worse than reality ; 
 and my anxiety was not made more pleasing by one of the 
 men saying to me, "J/2 place molto la signorina /" It was 
 
 a great comfort to me that A had not the slightest idea 
 
 of my fears, which I did not tell her till our arrival at Ca- 
 tania next day. At 7 30 we reached our little inn, and, after 
 having supper, we were soon fast asleep. 
 
 April 13. When we first arrived at Linguagrossa we had 
 arranged with our coachman for a visit to Randazzo and
 
 April 12 to May. 59 
 
 the other towns at the back of the mountain. We were 
 talking about this expedition after our return from Mount 
 Etna, when our man, Giuseppe, entered the room, and clos- 
 ing the door mysteriously behind him, as if afraid of being 
 overheard, entreated us, in a whisper, to give up our pro- 
 jected visit to Randazzo, as he had heard that the men 
 whom he had seen the day before were brigands, and that 
 they had arranged a plan to take us and our luggage on the 
 road. The poor man turned white with fear as he spoke. 
 We told him, laughing, that he need not be alarmed, as the 
 brigands only captured Italians, and never English travel- 
 ers. He then ran over a long list of the people who had 
 been taken, and told us that even the inhabitants of Lingua- 
 grossa knew we were very rich persons, for " all could see 
 that the Englishman was an engineer, or the next thing to 
 it, viz., a nobleman ! for was not the white turban he wore 
 round his hat a sign of his riches or rank ?" The landlord 
 added his advice to Giuseppe's entreaties, telling us plainly 
 that he could not guarantee our safety unless we took an 
 escort of soldiers. Being determined not to let any one 
 know the road we were to take, I dismissed them with these 
 words : " Tell the coachman to be ready to start at eight 
 o'clock to-morrow morning." They both left the room, 
 shrugging their shoulders at the madness of the English- 
 man. I, however, from the moment I had been surrounded 
 by the men near the crater, had resolved to return to Cata- 
 nia by the coast, and to give up the expedition round the 
 mountain. 
 
 The next morning, early, Giuseppe came again to implore 
 me to drive to Catania, but all that he could get from me 
 was the order to tell the coachman to get the carriage ready 
 for the luggage. Poor Giuseppe obeyed with many a dole- 
 ful sigh and shrug. The carriage drove round ; the horses'
 
 60 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 heads \vere turned toward Randazzo ; the bells had been 
 taken off, that no warning of our approach might be given ; 
 the coachman looked pale and nervous, watching the crowd 
 that assembled to see us off; I stood on the balcony while 
 the luggage was being packed, and when all was ready we 
 descended and stepped into the carriage; and then, stand- 
 ing up, I said to the coachman, "Turn the horses' heads, and 
 drive to Catania." A loud roar of laughter broke from the 
 crowd as we drove furiously away, feeling sure that no inti- 
 mation of our change of purpose could have been conveyed 
 to the brigands in time for them to interfere with us. They 
 probably spent this day in lying in wait for us in some dark 
 wood, or convenient angle of the rocky road between Lin- 
 guagrossa and Randazzo. 
 
 April 13.* We arrived at Catania on the 13th. The drive 
 from Linguagrossa was beautiful, but the distant view of 
 Catania, which is on a flat plain at the foot of Mount Etna, 
 did not prepare us for the beauty of its splendid buildings. 
 It forms in this point a striking contrast to many of the Si- 
 cilian towns we have seen, which are generally lovely at a 
 distance, from their picturesque situations, but dirty and 
 miserable when once the gates are passed. Catania is a 
 comparatively modern city, having been built about two 
 hundred years ago, after the overthrow of the old town by 
 one of the many earthquakes which are always threatening 
 the towns and villages around the giant mountain whose 
 smoking crater is to be seen towering above from every 
 street. The houses, which are really enormous, are entirely 
 built of lava and stuccoed over, and the wide streets are 
 paved with it. Catania is a flourishing, thriving place, and 
 the trade will be immensely increased when the railroad is 
 finished round the coast, connecting all the principal towns. 
 * From Mrs. M 's di.irv.
 
 April 12 to May. 61 
 
 Englishmen will probably then find that this is a charming- 
 winter residence, as it is very healthy, and the country round 
 is lovely. 
 
 There are very interesting remains of the old Greek and 
 Roman city disinterred from the lava, especially the remains 
 of the theatre and the catacombs ; but we were not able to 
 visit the latter, neither could we make any of the usual ex- 
 peditions round the mountain, for which Catania is the start- 
 ing-point, on account of the ill health of my husband, who 
 was almost entirely confined to the hotel during our stay in 
 the place. 
 
 On Good Friday, at six o'clock in the evening, there was 
 a, grand procession of the senators, monks, noblemen, and 
 principal people in the town. They first assembled in the 
 Cathedral, which was brilliantly lighted up, and assisted at 
 n. solemn requiem. The general public were not admitted, 
 so we took our stand on the grand piazza outside, and after 
 waiting a short time, the great doors of the Cathedral were 
 Hung open, and the procession slowly defiled from it, head- 
 ed by the bishop and canons in quaint copes and hoods lined 
 with ermine, with long fur trains. A crown of thorns was 
 the only head-dress worn, and every one carried an enor- 
 mous wax taper, the monks chanting a solemn dirge the 
 while. In the centre of the procession was a wax figure of 
 our Savior lying on a bier, the blood slowly trickling from 
 his side. For two hours they slowly marched about, while 
 a solemn silence reigned around; awe and devotion were 
 imprinted on the features of the crowd, almost as if they 
 were present at the awful event itsejf instead of its scenic 
 representation. The most striking incongruity in this solem- 
 nity was the conduct of the street-boys, who ran in and out 
 of the procession, picking up and carefully treasuring the 
 pieces of wax that dropped from the lighted candles.
 
 62 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 The popularity of these processions is a sort of measure 
 by which to gauge the moral and intellectual progress of 
 the people. Among the ignorant population of the remote 
 towns of Sicily they are frequent, and are considered to 
 bring a blessing on both town and people ; whereas in 
 Southern Italy, even in Naples itself once the abode of the 
 most abject superstition these ceremonies are becoming 
 every day rarer. The entry of Garibaldi into the latter 
 town was the first ray of the flood of light, which is des- 
 tined, I trust, to illuminate all the dark places of this lovely 
 land. Instead of processions, he gave the people schools, 
 which are eagerly attended by a people so long systematic- 
 ally kept by their rulers in the grossest ignorance. I was 
 grieved to hear that the Church of England, both at Paler- 
 mo and Naples, is doing little or nothing, while the Luther- 
 ans and Presbyterians have established Sunday-schools, de- 
 pots for the sale of Bibles, etc. 
 
 But I have wandered too far away from Catania and its 
 churches. We paid a visit the other day to one of the lar- 
 gest in the world that belonging to the Benedictine mon- 
 astery. It is unfinished, as, on account either of an earth- 
 quake or of some fault in the building, the pillars have sunk, 
 and the foundation is considered insecure. We heard high 
 mass, and I was rather amused at seeing the care the priests 
 took to avoid cold in their numerous prostrations. Every 
 time they lay flat on the floor (a ceremony I had never be- 
 fore observed in any Roman Catholic Church), a rich car- 
 pet, with a velvet pillow, was spread on the ground, while 
 the poor and scanty congregation were compelled to con- 
 tent themselves with the hard, cold stone floor. 
 
 After the service we walked round the church, and I 
 stopped to admire two magnificent bouquets of the loveliest 
 flowers on one of the altars. The priest, seeing my admira-
 
 April 12 to May. 63 
 
 tion, stepped forward, and, to my surprise, politely invited 
 me to take any I liked. I hesitated to do so, and he collect- 
 ed for me a bouquet of the most splendid roses, heliotropes, 
 
 white tulips, violets, etc. In the mean time W visited 
 
 the museum. I was only allowed to enter the chapel. The 
 monastery is extremely rich, but there are very few monks. 
 We then visited the ruins of the old theatre. Curiously 
 enough, they have discovered that under the Roman theatre 
 was an old Greek one, the excavators having laid bare the 
 enormous blocks of stone characteristic of Grecian architect- 
 ure. We saw little else in the place on account of my hus- 
 band being attacked with illness ; and directly he was well 
 enough to travel, we took the steamer for Syracuse, where 
 we arrived on the 20th. 
 
 Syracuse, April 24. We are now in far-famed Syracuse. 
 I am enchanted with the place. No wonder that the Greeks, 
 with their keen love for the beautiful, built their city here, 
 for the situation is so striking, and the harbor splendid. 
 There is every probability that it will be the chosen station 
 for the fleet of United Italy. This town brings the power 
 of ancient days vividly before me. The Cathedral is built 
 out of an old temple to Minerva. The enormous Doric col- 
 umns, built six hundred years B.C., are still to be seen im- 
 bedded in the walls. No modern columns can be compared 
 to these, so gigantic and severely grand. Once or twice the 
 earthquakes have striven to dislodge them, and have suc- 
 ceeded so far that some have been thrown on one side and 
 off their base. Every where a column, a ruin, an old wall, 
 tells of the days when the Greeks were lords here. 
 
 We met the other day an English clergyman, the Rev. J. 
 C. Murray Aynsley, and his wife ; and yesterday, after read- 
 ing the morning service of the Church, we all went for a 
 long ramble, and, when tired, rested close to the shore, un-
 
 64 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 der the shade of enormous fig-trees, through whose cluster- 
 ing branches we could see the deep blue sea. Above us a 
 nightingale was singing most melodiously, and the ground 
 was every where enameled with flowers of the most bril- 
 liant hues. At our feet for we sat on a little hill were the 
 ruins of the Baths of Diana. Columns, statues, white mar- 
 ble steps, all lay scattered about. We sat and gazed till my 
 heart seemed to overflow with thankfulness at having been 
 permitted to see such a lovely scene. 
 
 We left it with deep regret, and then continued our walk, 
 in the course of which we descended into the catacombs, 
 which extend their subterraneous ramifications for miles 
 and miles. There were but few inscriptions and only one 
 or two frescoes. They are larger and more regular than 
 the catacombs at Rome. The walls in the galleries have 
 large arched openings at regular intervals, leading to pas- 
 sages cut far into the limestone rock, and containing num- 
 bers of stone recesses of all sizes, once covered by slabs, 
 which have all disappeared. This city of the dead awed 
 and chilled me to the heart. After the long, damp passages, 
 the sepulchral gloom, the thick, close air, I was glad to as- 
 cend again into the land of the living, to bask in its warm, 
 bright sunshine, to breathe the sweet perfume of its flowers 
 and trees. 
 
 " We rested again in a very bower of Arcadian sweets, 
 where Flora was still in her prime." The ancient quarries 
 are turned into gardens and such gardens ! Here, for the 
 first time, I saw the orange and lemon trees in their natural 
 growth, not topped and trimmed to produce fruit, but trees 
 of a splendid size, covered with bloom and fruit. The air 
 was deliciously scented by these and the beautiful rose-trees 
 (really trees), geraniums, and fig-trees. Surrounded by cliffs 
 hung with creepers of every bright and lovely hue, we lin-
 
 April 12 to May. 65 
 
 gered long in this sweet spot, until evening, creeping softly 
 and slowly over the landscape, warned us to return home. 
 
 Girgenti, April 27. We left Syracuse on the 26th by the 
 weekly boat. Mr. and Mrs. Murray Aynsley traveled with 
 us, and after a smooth passage of twenty-four hours we 
 came in sight of the harbor of Girgenti, which is not deep 
 enough to admit the steamer, so we were forced to land in 
 a little boat to my eyes dangerously overladen with the 
 weight of the boatmen, our four selves, the luggage, and 
 Giuseppe and his personal belongings (consisting of a pair 
 of socks we had given him) tied up in a pocket-handker- 
 chief. 
 
 As we approached the pier, three or four wild-looking 
 men sprang into the boat and almost overset it. A regular 
 fight now began for our luggage ; fortunately, the boatmen 
 took our part in the dispute that ensued. I stood a little 
 apart, keeping close to two of the gens-d'armes, whose load- 
 ed revolvers bore witness to the truth of what we had been 
 told at Palermo that whoever comes to Girgenti must ex- 
 pect to meet cattiva gente. The luggage was at last put on 
 a truck and wheeled toward the Dogana, but here, as else- 
 where, owing to the credentials kindly given to us by the 
 Marquis d'Azeglio, it was not examined, and W 's nega- 
 tives escaped the rough handling of the custom-house officers. 
 
 We now looked round for some means of conveyance to 
 the town, which we saw proudly towering on a hill about 
 four miles off. Its appearance at this distance, with its cas- 
 tellated buildings and lordly mansions, enchanted us a 
 charm soon to be cruelly dispelled on a nearer view. We 
 heard at the Dogana that there was no carriage here, and 
 that we must send to Girgenti for one. Poor Giuseppe, 
 greatly against his will, was dispatched on this errand. I 
 do not know whether the long walk up the hill or the fear
 
 66 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 of brigands weighed most on his mind. He started at 
 
 o o 
 
 twelve o'clock, and we sat on chairs placed in the open air 
 for us, and whiled away the time talking to the head of the 
 Dogana, who, like all other officials we met with, seemed 
 thoroughly discontented with his position. One o'clock 
 came, two, three, four ; we grew wearied and hungry, and 
 the gentlemen went in search of food, while we kept guard 
 over our boxes. They returned with a little bread and 
 cheese, and then wished to go in search of Giuseppe, but we 
 were too much afraid of brigands to allow them to leave us. 
 Five o'clock came no Giuseppe ; but at six, just as we were 
 giving up all hopes of his appearance that night, we saw him 
 coming slowly toward us with a doleful face, and the un- 
 pleasant information that there were but two carriages in 
 the town, and both these were engaged. The hotels, too, 
 were full, and not a room to be had in the place. We were 
 fairly at our wits' end, when, happily for us, the consul drove 
 by, and, seeing our disconsolate position, offered to take us 
 to the town, while our husbands walked with the small cart 
 which had been secured to carry the luggage. 
 
 After a wearisome drive up the steep hill, we entered the 
 old gateway, and, passing through the crowd of people 
 lounging round it, drove to the consul's through the filthy 
 streets. After fruitless endeavors to get apartments at one 
 of the hotels, we accepted the offer of an old man to let us 
 two rooms. We were led down a narrow alley, and picked 
 our way in disgust through black pools of water emitting 
 the most villainous odors. The rooms were dirty and mis- 
 erable, but we were so worn out with fatigue that we were 
 thankful for any shelter. Just, however, as we were discuss- 
 ing how we should manage, Giuseppe came to tell us that a 
 guide, to whom "VV had shown some kindness at Paler- 
 mo, offered to give up his room at the hotel to us.
 
 April 12 to May. 67 
 
 Thinking we should be more comfortable there, we ac- 
 cepted the offer, but were not much better off, for the win- 
 dow looked into an alley similar to the one which led to the 
 old man's house, and the door opened into the salle-a-man- 
 ger, where eating was going on all day long, and into which, 
 when supper was over, the servants brought planks, turning 
 it into a well-filled sleeping-room, so that our chance of ob- 
 taining fresh air was very small. We were obliged to re- 
 main, as the steamer called at Girgenti only once a week, 
 and we were told it would be madness to attempt a land jour- 
 ney across the island to Palermo. We could only do it by 
 engaging a very large escort of soldiers, and even then there 
 would be every probability of our being attacked and per- 
 haps taken by the brigands ; so we made the best of our sit- 
 uation, and engaged a carriage to take us early every morn- 
 ing to the Temples, where we spent the whole day, enjoying 
 the pure air and exquisite scenery. I used to lie down among 
 the red clover, feasting my eyes on the beautiful ruins, all of 
 which are on rising ground commanding a view of the sea 
 on one side, and the wide plain thickly planted with almond- 
 trees, just then in their tender spring beauty, on the other, 
 the picturesque town crowning the summit of the lofty hill, 
 and forming a fitting background to the picture. 
 
 May 2. We invited the consul and his family to a picnic 
 yesterday, and passed a very pleasant day. The town, de- 
 spite its dirt and smells, is very amusing, for the inhabitants 
 live in the streets, where they discuss their own and neigh- 
 bors' affairs with the utmost energy. To-day we went to 
 the sulphur mines ; but I, having learned by former experi- 
 ence in Tyrol to dread the atmosphere of a mine, declined 
 accompanying the others in their descent. They came back 
 horrified at the sight of children of from six to twelve years 
 of age toiling under loads of from 70 to 100 Ibs. We aft-
 
 68 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 erward visited the excavations carried on by Mr. Dennis. 
 Nothing of any importance had been discovered, though 
 tombs and rows of houses are scattered all over the fields 
 in the neighborhood of the town. 
 
 Our week passed quickly, and the morning of our depart- 
 ure arrived. We began to think we should have a little 
 trouble about settling our bill, as we had not been satisfied 
 
 with the conduct of the landlord, and W 's great-coat 
 
 had been stolen from the hotel. Our fears were verified ; a 
 most exorbitant bill was brought, every thing being charged 
 half as much again as we had paid at the best hotel in Paler- 
 mo, and many things put down which we had never had. 
 Mr. Aynsley and my husband determined not to be imposed 
 upon ; but, to their surprise, the landlord, at the first objec- 
 tion made, said, " Refer it to the English consul." They ac- 
 cordingly went, but were surprised at this gentleman's sup- 
 porting the landlord in his attempt at imposition. They 
 would not give in, and returned to the hotel, where we 
 were waiting in the carriage. They then laid down the 
 proper amount, due according to the tariff of prices estab- 
 lished every where in the island, and, as the coachman re- 
 fused to drive on, and a crowd assembled round us, we got 
 out and walked, our luggage having been sent on in the 
 morning. We had not got half way down the zigzag path 
 cut in the hill when we saw the landlord and some of his 
 men pursuing us. They came up with us, vociferating and 
 gesticulating fiercely, and some one, pretending to be an of- 
 ficial, stopped our luggage ; we appealed to the vice-consul, 
 who took our part; but, fearful of losing the boat, the gen- 
 tlemen consented to pay an extra Napoleon, and we embark- 
 ed, feeling that the reputation of the inhabitants of Girgenti 
 was a well-earned one. 
 
 The boat was crowded with soldiers, officers and their
 
 April 12 to May. 69 
 
 wives, the latter all young and very pretty, and it was most 
 amusing to see one mamma after another, when tired of her 
 baby, handing the little creature over to a great, tall soldier, 
 who walked away with a grim smile of satisfaction over- 
 spreading his countenance as the baby clutched vigorously 
 at his mustache and gay cap. I heard afterward that these 
 soldiers were the only nurses the babies had, and most effi- 
 cient and tender ones they proved. 
 
 I could not help thinking that this certainly was an ad- 
 vantage for the soldier. His being brought into such near 
 contact with ladies and children must humanize him. The 
 enlistment of the young men for soldiers, instead of being, 
 as the ignorant peasants think, a great hardship, is, on the 
 contrary, a very great benefit for them. The poor ignorant 
 boy is taken away from his village, where he has grown up 
 in perfect ignorance, and, besides having his mind opened 
 by contact with others, fares altogether far better than if he 
 were to remain all his days at home. 
 
 Soon after this we left Sicily for Naples, where we arrived 
 without experiencing any adventures worth recording.
 
 70 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 DIARY OF MRS. MOENS. 
 
 Ride from Salerno to Psestum. Our Escort. The Temples. Forebod- 
 ings. "Many a true Word spoken in Jest." Our Escort deserts us. 
 The Reason why. The Brigands at last ! The Capture. Conduct 
 of the Italian Troops. The truly Unprotected. The Village Doctor. 
 A new Cure for Fright. Two trying Days for Wives. Release of 
 one of the Captives. Mr. Moens retained as a Hostage. 
 
 May 19. WHEN we had been a few days at Naples, we 
 thought of starting again on our tour, and accordingly, on 
 the 14th of May, we traveled by rail to Salerno, intending, 
 if possible, to pay a visit to the renowned ruins of Pa3stum. 
 We put up at the Hotel Vittoria, and next morning we 
 started on our proposed excursion about 8 A.M., having re- 
 ceived the most positive assurances, both from the authori- 
 ties at Naples and the hotel-keeper at Salerno, that the road 
 to Psestum was perfectly safe,* and guarded by soldiers 
 throughout. 
 
 Our party consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Murray Aynsley, my 
 husband and myself. As I got into the carriage, I said in 
 English, "I hope we shall escape the brigands." To my 
 surprise, the porter answered me in my own language 
 " Oh, no fear, lady, the road is safe ; parties are going ev- 
 ery day from here to visit the temples." I had no real fear 
 for myself, but merely made the observation in joke, as I 
 had always done when starting for any of our expeditions 
 in Sicily. 
 
 * In Appendix A will be found copies of the notices which were posted 
 up in the Hotel Vittoria.
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens. 73 
 
 The road from Salerno to Paestum is most uninteresting ; 
 no hills nothing but a dusty plain. "We had three horses 
 to our carriage, with the usual accompaniment of jingling 
 bells. How I hated the sound of bells afterward ! They 
 always brought back to my mind this dreadful day. We 
 were escorted the whoie way to Pa3stum by soldiers, who 
 joined us on the road when a little distance from Salerno, 
 asking our coachman where we were going. Although they 
 thus accompanied us, they did not warn us of any danger, 
 notwithstanding that (as we afterward discovered) they 
 were fully aware of the presence of a band of brigands in 
 the neighborhood, two Italian gentlemen having been cap- 
 tured by them a week previously. We arrived at the tem- 
 ples at eleven o'clock, and spent the whole day among them, 
 my husband amusing himself in taking photographs of them, 
 one of the carbineers being all the time in the temples in at- 
 tendance on us. 
 
 The day was hot and sultry. I could not walk a step 
 without feeling ill from the intense heat. We occupied 
 ourselves in trying to find relics of the past in a place where 
 some workmen were excavating. Mr. Aynsley picked up a 
 ring and some marble fragments. Two Germans here join- 
 ed us, and we formed a plan for returning together, but, for- 
 tunately for them, this plan was frustrated by the willful de- 
 lay of our coachman. After we had taken tea, it being then 
 half past four o'clock, and the carriage having been ordered 
 at three, the gentlemen grew tired of waiting, and went in 
 search of the coachman, while I reclined on one of the large 
 piles of stones, and admired the extreme beauty of the scene 
 before me, with which at first I had not been so much im- 
 pressed. I looked through the massive columns of the ruin- 
 ed temples at the wooded plain beyond, with the mountains 
 towering in the distance ; but a dark cloud seemed over all. 
 
 D
 
 74 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 A feeling of melancholy crept over me a foreshadowing, I 
 suppose, of some coming sorrow. 
 
 The carriage at last arrived, and we were all glad to get 
 into it and drive away. The road was quite deserted, our 
 escort of the morning having disappeared in fact, we did 
 not see a single soldier, and the authorities allowed us to re- 
 turn without any warning or guard, although they knew the 
 danger we were running in so doing. We heard afterward 
 that the troops were drawn off on purpose to allow negotia- 
 tions to be carried on with the band of a brigand named 
 Giardullo for the ransom of Signers Bellelli and Magnone. 
 
 We soon began talking about the brigands again, and 
 Mrs. Aynsley and my husband kept trying to frighten me 
 by pointing out dangerous places. However, I never for a 
 moment felt that there was real cause for alarm, and so we 
 talked and laughed about the brigands just as careless, un- 
 thinking people talk about their own death, never realiz- 
 ing the possibility of its being at hand. Mrs. Aynsley and 
 
 W were in high spirits, and at last, tired of teasing me, 
 
 told me that we had passed all the dangerous places, and 
 one wood in particular that had been always notorious as 
 an ambush. 
 
 I was very tired, and so fell asleep, but was suddenly 
 roused by hearing Mrs. Aynsley exclaim, " Here really are 
 the brigands at last !" I started up and saw, as it seemed 
 to me, the fields on both sides of the road covered with 
 armed men, some like serpents creeping through the stand- 
 ing corn, and advancing swiftly to the carriage ; others ris- 
 ing in all quarters from out of the corn, and from behind 
 the tall hedges. They all closed noiselessly round the car- 
 riage, pointing their guns at us. One man seized the horses' 
 heads, and turned them across the road. The coachman did 
 not attempt to drive on. No one spoke. We were com-
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens. 77 
 
 pletely surrounded. There could not have been less than 
 thirty men ! I whispered to my husband, " Give me your 
 watch. I can hide it." This watch, which he much prized, he 
 slipped behind the cushions of the carriage without answer- 
 ing me. Still not a word was spoken. I said something, I 
 know not what, to the man holding the horses' heads. He 
 did not reply, but the brigands all made signs to my hus- 
 band and Mr. Aynsley to get down. Silently the coachman 
 descended and let down the steps, saying "scende" Silently 
 my husband and Mr. Aynsley got out : the armed men sur- 
 rounded them, and quickly marched off with them, one of 
 the brigands whispering to the coachman to stay there for 
 a quarter of an hour. Till then I had been bewildered, look- 
 ing on what was taking place as a dream. 
 
 I now first realized what was happening, and a strong 
 determination came over me that I would not be separated 
 from my husband. I sprang out of the carriage and rushed 
 after him for about twenty paces, but the brigands instantly 
 formed a line to prevent my following, and my husband and 
 Mr. Aynsley, turning round, implored me to return. I felt 
 powerless, and two brigands gently and courteously led me 
 back to the carriage, begging me not to be afraid, as they 
 would return with my husband in a quarter of an hour.* 
 
 Once back in the carriage, my head reeled, and I nearly 
 fainted. Mortal fear came upon both Mrs. A and my- 
 self. All we did at first was to pray ; then we looked at 
 one another and asked what we were to do. We hoped 
 and thought the brigands would carry our husbands behind 
 a house not far from us, take their money, rings, etc., make 
 arrangements for paying a ransom, and then send them back 
 to us. We had heard that this had been done with Mr. 
 
 * The brigands afterward told my husband that my conduct was 
 "madness."
 
 78 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 when he was taken by brigands at Palermo some years ago. 
 We kept gazing at the house, and constantly saw people 
 coming toward us. Alas ! they were only peasants, more 
 than a hundred of whom passed while we were waiting in 
 fearful expectation, but no one took the slightest notice of 
 us.* My heart seemed to stand still. 
 
 About a quarter of an hour had passed, when suddenly 
 we saw a cloud of dust along the road, and heard the feet 
 of horses galloping furiously. " The soldiers !" exclaimed 
 our coachman; and, as they were passing us, we stopped 
 them with the terrible news, "The brigands have taken our 
 husbands !" " Which way ?" they asked. We pointed to 
 the house, and away galloped about thirty soldiers in hot 
 pursuit. We now thought that as the brigands were on 
 foot there must be an instant encounter, and our husbands 
 would be restored to us. 
 
 Half an hour passed then an hour but no signs of the 
 soldiers ; nothing but peasants passing along the road on 
 their way to their homes. Hope began to leave us. It was 
 now seven o'clock ; the night was drawing on, and at last 
 we reluctantly made up our minds to leave the spot, and 
 to drive on to Battipaglia, the nearest village ; there we 
 stopped to consult about our going on to Salerno, as the 
 coachman was very averse to our proceeding farther that 
 night. I, too, thought it better to stop, if possible, where 
 we were, as I had a large number of circular notes about 
 me, my husband having the letter of indication. A crowd 
 surrounded our carriage, but none showed signs of sympa- 
 thy. We asked the most respectable-looking man if there 
 was any place where we could pass the night. He pointed 
 to a wretched-looking house one of the stations built to 
 accommodate the soldiers and their horses. 
 
 * At least fifty were looking on when the brigands surrounded us.
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens. 79 
 
 There was a room over the stables which we were told 
 we could have, and we were advised to pass the night there. 
 I must confess that by this time my own nerve had given 
 way, and I longed to hide myself from the gaze of the curi- 
 ous crowd. We asked every one, " Have you informed the 
 soldiers ?" " Have you alarmed the country ?" We were 
 assured that messengers had been sent in every direction 
 with the news. 
 
 One man, the best dressed in the crowd, kept talking ve- 
 hemently to Mrs. Aynsley. I could not hear what he said, 
 but I thought that he was perhaps the owner of a good 
 house, and was offering us shelter for the night. Mrs. 
 Aynsley rebuffed him, and, when we had driven into the 
 stables, I asked her " why she spoke so crossly to him." 
 She told me he was the village doctor, and so importunate 
 in his entreaties to be allowed to bleed us that she was at 
 last obliged to speak sharply to him. I looked at her color- 
 less face, and felt that mine presented the same appearance, 
 and thought bleeding a very unnecessary operation. The 
 Italian doctors, however, would seem to be disciples of Doc- 
 tor Sangrado, as they always have recourse to his favorite 
 operation after any great excitement. 
 
 A kind old peasant woman now advanced to show us the 
 way to our room ; we mounted a ladder, and found our- 
 selves in a loft, half filled with hay, Avith a large heap of In- 
 dian corn in one corner in another a hen sitting on her 
 nest. There was but one small window, which I opened di- 
 rectly, as the room felt oppressively hot and stifling. Our 
 hostess gave us water with snow in it, which was most re- 
 freshing, and brought some clean sheets and a night-dress 
 for Mrs. Aynsley, who immediately went to bed. Three or 
 fcmr women came to us ; among others, a poor creature 
 whose own husband had been taken, and who came, as she
 
 80 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 said, " to mingle her tears with ours." I reciprocated her 
 kind feelings, and would gladly have talked with her, but 
 the presence of strangers was irksome to Mrs. Aynsley, who 
 begged me to get rid of them ; so I told them the signora 
 was ill, and they all quietly retired. I then tried to make 
 some tea with Mrs. Aynsley's apparatus, when the door 
 again opened and some men came in. Among them I saw 
 the sullen face of the coachman, whom we afterward strong- 
 ly suspected of having been in league with the brigands. 
 They gave us the good news that the brigands were sur- 
 rounded and could not possibly escape. 
 
 They went away, and were succeeded by two young offi- 
 cers, with several of their men. How our hearts sank when 
 the first question they asked us was, " Which way did the 
 brigands go ?" We answered, " Why we told you at the 
 time, round by the white house." "We can not find them," 
 was the reply. " We have scoured the country, our horses 
 are worn out, and we must rest two hours before we go out 
 again." "Have you alarmed the country ?" we asked. "Are 
 the soldiers guarding the roads to the mountains ? Have 
 you sent intelligence of what has happened to Salerno and 
 Eboli ?" Over and over again they assured us that every 
 thing had been done ; that telegrams had been sent ; that 
 the mountains were well guarded; all the soldiers called 
 out ; the brigands could not escape^ etc. ; but they failed to 
 convince me, and my heart sank. I wept bitterly, as all 
 hope of seeing my husband left me. The officers were kind- 
 hearted men, and tried to comfort me. They begged us to 
 keep up our courage as they wished us good-night, promis- 
 ing to go out again in two hours' time in search of the 
 band. 
 
 I could neither lie down nor sleep, but sat at the window, 
 looking at the scene outside. The soldiers were leading
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens. 81 
 
 their horses to the water, or sitting in groups, smoking and 
 talking together. A wandering musician, with a concerti- 
 na, went from group to group, listening to their conversa- 
 tion, and after a time crept quietly away. I firmly believe 
 that this man was a spy of the brigands, as I noticed that 
 he did not play any tune correctly; he was only trying to 
 discover what were the plans of the soldiers for the morrow. 
 After a time the soldiers retired to rest, and Mrs. Aynsley 
 asked me to read to her. I had Fenelon's Conseils with me, 
 and read a chapter or two to her. (This small book I sent 
 afterward to my husband.) She fell asleep, and I returned 
 again to my window. 
 
 It was a lovely night ; the stars were clear and bright. 
 At about three o'clock the soldiers led out their horses, and 
 after about an hour's preparation they mounted and gal- 
 loped out of sight. Still too wretched to sleep, I sat at my 
 window, thinking that the morning would never dawn. I 
 could see the roads to Poestum and Eboli, along which num- 
 bers of peasants passed, either on foot or in the rough coun- 
 try carts. At last the stars disappeared one by one, and the 
 welcome sun arose. I extinguished our curious old lamp, 
 and we prepared for our return to Salerno. The officers had 
 promised us an escort, and we waited some time for it ; but, 
 as no soldiers appeared, we determined to proceed alone. 
 The broad daylight, the numbers of people passing, renewed 
 our courage, and we again took our places in the carriage, 
 after thanking and rewarding our kind hostess. 
 
 On our way we met two or three carriages, the occupants 
 of which we warned of the danger attending their expedi- 
 tion to Paestum. They of course gave it up, and turned 
 back. 
 
 We determined, notwithstanding our dusty condition, to 
 drive direct to the general's at Salerno. The coachman at 
 
 D 2
 
 82 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 first demurred ; but, as we firmly insisted, he was obliged to 
 take us. We trusted that the general would be able to give 
 us some news of our husbands ; we never for a moment sus- 
 pected that we should be the first persons to convey to him 
 the intelligence of their capture, after seventeen hours had 
 elapsed since it took place. We were shown into a large 
 drawing-room, and in a few minutes General Balegno ap- 
 peared. He looked rather surprised at seeing two ladies, 
 who could hardly speak for weeping. We told our story, 
 and great was our dismay when we found that he was ut- 
 terly ignorant of the fact of two Englishmen having been 
 carried off in broad daylight on the high road from Salerno 
 to Psestum a road supposed to be perfectly safe, and guard- 
 ed by the soldiers under his command. He instantly rang 
 the bell, summoned two of his staff officers, and gave orders 
 for such and such detachments of soldiers to be sent out in 
 pursuit, and not to return until our husbands were free, or 
 the brigands prisoners. Having dispatched these officers, 
 he turned to us, and begged us to be comforted, as all would 
 soon be well. 
 
 In the evening we had many visitors, coming to offer their 
 help and sympathy. A deputy of the Italian Parliament en- 
 treated us to send a telegram to Florence to rouse the Ital- 
 ian government, and to beg for help against the brigands. 
 Another gentleman, a resident at Salerno, came to comfort 
 us by telling us that he too had been taken by the brigands, 
 and had escaped from them unhurt by paying a ransom. 
 We were just retiring for the night when a messenger ar- 
 rived with a letter for Mrs. Aynsley, containing the joyful 
 intelligence that her husband was free, and would be with 
 her early the next morning, the brigands having liberated 
 him to raise the ransom for my husband and himself. 
 
 I was dressing the next morning when Mrs. Aynsley
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens. 83 
 
 rushed into my room, exclaiming, " Good news ! good news ! 
 they are both coming ! I have seen them in the carriage." 
 I rushed out into the passage ; the stairs and landing-place 
 were crowded with people. I saw Mrs. Aynsley in her hus- 
 band's arms. I gazed, oji ! how eagerly, into all the faces 
 that were turned toward us, but I did not see the one I 
 looked for, and I returned into my room with that deadly 
 feeling of disappointment which makes the heart sick. 1 
 sank on the sofa. Mr. and Mrs. Aynsley came into my 
 room, but for some time I could not speak to them ; at last 
 I managed to shake Mr. Aynsley's hand warmly, and con- 
 gratulated him on his escape ; but I had not the heart to 
 ask him how it was that he had returned alone, and that my 
 husband was still with the brigands. 
 
 He then proceeded to tell us his adventures, which will 
 be found fully detailed in my husband's diary.
 
 84 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 DlAEY OF ME. MOENS, MAY 15 TO 20. 
 
 The Capture. The first Night's Sleep alfresco. Delicate Attentions. 
 The Englishmen's Fellow-prisoners. The Captain commences Busi- 
 ness. Value of Englishmen in Italy. Choice of Hostage by Lot. 
 Release of Mr. Aynsley. Skirmish with the Troops. I am detached 
 from the Band. A wet Night in the Mountains. Brigand Diet. 
 Two more Fellow-captives. The Brigands' Dress and Arms. The 
 Ladies. Sheep -killing. Gambling. The Brigands' Anxiety about 
 my Health. My Friends Pavone and Scope. 
 
 May 15. WE had ordered the carriage to be at the tem- 
 ples at three o'clock, but it did not come till four. We had 
 nearly reached Battipaglia, observing, to our great astonish- 
 ment, that there were no soldiers about as in the morning, 
 when all at once, about five miles from Scafa, the ferry over 
 the River Sele, we saw a number of men creeping out of 
 the corn on the east side of the road ; they pointed their 
 guns at us, and, quickly coming up to the carriage, turned 
 the horses across the road. More men now advanced, and 
 the coachman got down, opened the carriage door, saying 
 Scende. Mr. Aynsley and I had to get out, I having in- 
 stinctively taken off my watch and left it in the carriage. 
 
 We were dragged away at once, but, on looking back, I 
 
 saw to my grief that A had jumped out and wanted to 
 
 come with me ; she was stopped by the brigands, who said 
 to her, " Nbn avetepaura, Signorina, non avetepaura" I 
 wanted to return for a minute, but the brigands would not 
 let me. We were hurried away up a lane on the west side 
 of the road toward the sea, past a house. (The carriage was
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 15 to 20. 85 
 
 stopped near wood-carts, on the top of one of which a man 
 was placed to give notice when we were coming. We had 
 passed these carts near the river in the morning.) Almost 
 immediately after leaving the high road, Luzzo, a proprietor 
 living at Battipaglia, was taken by the brigands, and a min- 
 ute after a young man, who was seen about 200 yards off in 
 a field, was also captured. 
 
 We were then pushed along at a fast pace toward the 
 sea, over fields and through thickets, the best path always 
 being left for us. When at last we were allowed to rest a 
 little, the captain of the band (whose name I found to be 
 Gaetano Manzo) gave us each a very large cloak, called a 
 
 GAETA-NO MAJiZO. 
 
 capote, usually worn by the peasants, to sit on. We took 
 this opportunity of asking the captain what he wanted with 
 us. He rubbed his right thumb and finger together, and 
 said "Denaro ; non temete" I asked how much farther we
 
 86 English Travelers and Italian Brigand's. 
 
 had to walk. The answer was " Lontano, lontano assai" 
 I, joking, said I hoped he had horses to carry us. He nod- 
 ded his head, " Si, si." They were all very kind in their 
 manner, always addressing us as " Signori," putting a strong 
 accent on the last syllable. We rested about ten minutes, 
 and Luzzo, shivering a great deal, asked for a capote, saying 
 there was much malaria about. We also put on our ca- 
 potes. 
 
 Soon after starting again we had to pass several wet 
 places. It was getting dark when we came to a river (the 
 Tusciano) running very fast, about ten or twelve yards wide. 
 They carried us over on their shoulders, and we rested again 
 on the other side and drank some water. Here I tore up 
 my letter of indication, as well as a letter of introduction to 
 One of the principal bankers at Naples, and other letters, 
 thinking it more prudent to do so than to keep them about 
 me. I put the pieces into my gloves, and threw them away 
 as opportunity offered. 
 
 On we went again, passing over swampy ground and deep 
 ditches, which we jumped easily, much to the amusement 
 of the brigands, who can not jump. They laughed heartily 
 at our agility, and still more heartily when one of their own 
 party fell into a ditch. When we were near the sea we 
 passed a house, and one man who was sent to visit it brought 
 back a quantity of dark-colored, hard dry bread, in shape like 
 small penny rolls. These were distributed, and we walked 
 on again for some time, and presently came to cultivated 
 land. It was very dark now, and we could not see our path 
 by the side of a running brook, so they gave me a long stick, 
 which was a great help. We passed near some houses, dogs 
 barking as we approached. Two or three men were sent 
 on in advance, and we were placed in the centre of the band, 
 who all walked in Indian file.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 15 to 20. 87 
 
 The advanced guard were making signals continually. 
 The brigands' peculiar call-note is made by uniting the tips 
 of thumb and forefinger of left hand, and then kissing loud- 
 ly the third joint of the forefinger. We were often stopped 
 till the road was considered secure. As it was getting to- 
 ward midnight the caution increased, and when we neared 
 the main road still greater vigilance was exercised, and we 
 halted while the great highway was examined. We were 
 then taken across. The same precautions were used when 
 we approached the Eboli road, after crossing which we 
 came upon a patch of cabbage and onions. "Pigliate" 
 was the command from the captain, and the spot was soon 
 stripped. A little hard cabbage was handed over to me, 
 with some garlic, which I put in my pocket. 
 
 On we went past a large farm-house. I looked out for a 
 chance to escape, but they saw as well by night as by day, 
 and had we attempted to have left the ranks our fate would 
 have been to have had a few shots sent into us, which would 
 have left our bodies a prey to the worms. We halted be- 
 fore daybreak on the banks of a rapidly flowing stream, and 
 we were told to lie down and go to sleep among some osiers. 
 The ground was very damp, so we objected, and were al- 
 lowed to sleep on the dry bank ; but at daybreak we were 
 made to descend and conceal ourselves with the band. 
 Branches were stuck in the ground to make the cover 
 thicker. 
 
 As I was lying fast asleep, I was awakened and startled 
 by feeling a man's hand pass over my chest and ribs. My 
 moving disturbed the man, and he left me. I mentioned 
 this to Mr. Aynsley. We did not like it at all ; I was so 
 tired, however, that I soon fell sound asleep again. Mr. 
 Aynsley was not so fortunate. He told me the next morn- 
 ing he could not sleep after this incident. I believe now the
 
 88 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 man was trying to find if I had a pistol. My first night's 
 rest in the open air was excellent. I little thought how 
 many I should have to pass far less comfortably before I 
 saw a bed again. 
 
 The first operation in the morning was to collect all the 
 bread and then divide it into shares. We were treated like 
 the rest. The bread was so hard that they soaked it before 
 eating it. They now continually asked us about our prop- 
 erty. At about eleven o'clock we made a move, and walked 
 in Indian file through a highly cultivated country. 
 
 After two hours there was a halt, and the captain asked 
 us how much money we had at Salerno. We told them our 
 stock of gold, but they would only believe in our being rich 
 lords. They wanted also to know what was the matter with 
 my hands. I explained to them that I had been photograph- 
 ing all day long at Pa3Stum, and the chemicals had stained 
 my hands, and that if I had been a lord I should have had 
 somebody to do it for me. One brigand said, " Look at his 
 hands ; they are black, indeed ; his trowsers (they were gray 
 flannel), too, are like what prisoners wear, and they are all 
 worn ont,povero uomo!" The captain and the rest seemed 
 rather disappointed, but said, " We will see ; wait." 
 
 They offered us a little piece of hard sausage called super- 
 sato, but, after discussing its digestible qualities together, we 
 told them that it would not agree with us. They laughed, 
 and the captain said, " They will like it by-and-by," which 
 truly came to pass. I never heard the end of this ; the brig- 
 ands never forgot the two Englishmen discussing the whole- 
 someness of the sausage. We started again, passing by some 
 men, an old woman, and two girls ; the old woman was sent 
 for water, which she brought in a broken fiasco. We were 
 very thirsty, for it was a very hot day. We rested contin- 
 ually, Mr. Aynsley always lying down at full length on his
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 15 to 20. 89 
 
 back. A little farther on we found a spring, and here they 
 filled a wide-awake and brought it to us. At last, about 
 four o'clock, we reached the top of Monte Corvino, the 
 highest mountain in the neighborhood; a road ran along 
 its base. We were placed under the shade of bushes close 
 to a little spring : on the merits of this stream the brigands 
 expatiated eloquently. 
 
 The captain asked me what I should like to eat. I an- 
 swered like Sancho Panza, " Some meat, bread, wine, and 
 eggs." He told me I should have them; but, alas! like 
 Sancho Panza, I was doomed to disappointment. For the 
 next three days we had scarcely enough to keep body and 
 soul together only a mouthful each day of Indian-corn 
 bread. There was a goat tethered near us ready to be kill- 
 ed, and the remains of the fire which they had left when 
 they had descended from the mountains on their way to 
 the plains. 
 
 The captain now got out paper and pen, and commenced 
 business. He took poor Luzzo in hand first. He was shiv- 
 ering with fear, and shrugging his shoulders when we look- 
 ed at him. All the band began by raving at him, the cap- 
 tain shrieking at him and threatening him with all kinds of 
 horrors, and told him that 12,000 ducats was his price. 
 Manzo wrote a letter, which he gave me to read, but I told 
 him he had only asked for twelve ducats, so I was request- 
 ed to write it again for him, which I did. The other poor 
 captive was now brought forward 8000 ducats was his 
 price ; they both sat wringing their hands, declaring that 
 such sums were quite out of their power to give. They 
 met with nothing but ridicule and threats from the brig- 
 ands. 
 
 It was now our turn ; but there was at once a difficulty 
 "Whom to write to?" We said it was no use writing
 
 90 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 to our wives, they could do nothing in a foreign land. We 
 had no money in Naples and no friends; one of us must go 
 to get what money we could. When we heard the sum de- 
 manded, we looked at each other with horror 100,000 duc- 
 ats, equal to 17,000. After a few minutes' conversation 
 with Sentonio, a tall, clumsy ruffian with black eyes, hair, 
 and beard, Manzo reduced it to 50,000 ducats, or 8500. 
 This sum, we said, was ridiculous out of the question ; but 
 we were told, in spite of our protestations to the contrary, 
 that we had 2,000,000 ducats each, and that we were great 
 lords. We declared it was no use to trust to our wives to 
 raise the money, as they did not speak the language, and 
 that there were few English people at Naples, and no one 
 would trust them as foreigners. 
 
 They then agreed to let one of us go for the money, and 
 wanted us to decide which it should be ; but we, knowing 
 that whichever offered himself would be kept back, were si- 
 lent. At last we proposed to draw lots ; so I took a small 
 twig and broke it in two pieces, a short and a long piece, 
 and we arranged that the holder of the short one was to 
 remain with the band, and the holder of the longer piece 
 was to go and get the money for both. I took the pieces 
 of wood, and holding out my hand before me, I said to Mr. 
 Aynsley, " Draw." He drew one, and left the other (which 
 was the shorter of the two) in my hand. I must confess I 
 felt as if I had been drawing for my life, and I had lost. 
 
 I had to make up my mind to my fate at once. Mr. 
 Aynsley told me he did not know whether he could pay so 
 much. I told him that I could, and that I would advance 
 his half for him till arrangements could be made. I told 
 him to apply to a friend whom I named, a member of the 
 Stock Exchange, for 2500, which I had left in his hands. 
 I gave him other little directions, and told him to do all he
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 15 to 20. 93 
 
 could for my wife, placing her under his care. Our conver- 
 sation was interrupted by the captain being called by the 
 sentinel to come and look at about 100 soldiers walking 
 along the road below. After a few minutes, Mr. Aynsley 
 and two men, to whom the letters of Luzzo and the other 
 captive were given, were hurried away. His last words 
 were, " Remember, whatever is paid, we each pay half." 
 
 I was put under charge of four or five men, and ordered 
 off to the rear. I turned round and saw Mr. Aynsley and 
 his two guides walking down the hill. It was a trying 
 moment. I was now driven on at a fast pace, and in a min- 
 ute heard the report of a gun, the bullet whizzing over my 
 head. This was from the soldiers whom Mr. Aynsley met 
 almost immediately after leaving us. The brigands answer- 
 ed this, and there was a brisk fire. I tried to go off to the 
 right, thinking an escape possible, but was turned immedi- 
 ately ; my foot slipped, and I fell down some depth, for the 
 mountain was very steep, and all the stones loose. I was 
 very much shaken, and I thought my arm was broken. I 
 could hardly move it, but I was made to get up, and to the 
 cry " Corre, corre" on we went. 
 
 The hill was very high, the base of it covered with trees. 
 I looked up, and saw the rest of the band lining the top of 
 the hill in skirmishing order, firing as fast as they could. 
 The shots of the soldiers now came rattling round us as we 
 passed from bush to bush one by one, and for a quarter of 
 an hour we had to run the gauntlet. At last we got to the 
 bottom of the mountain, where we found a rushing torrent 
 ten yards wide ; the fire was too hot for hesitation, so one 
 by one the brigands waded over. I had to follow ; on I 
 went, the water up to my waist, rushing, foaming over the 
 stones, and the bullets splashing into it on all sides of me. 
 I do believe the soldiers took special aim at me, the tallest
 
 94 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 of the party. My death would no doubt have saved them 
 considerable trouble. Had it not been for my stick, I should 
 have been carried away by the force of the stream ; as it 
 was, I had to cross in an oblique direction, landing on the 
 other side only two yards above a waterfall of some height. 
 The brigand who followed me was washed down, and went 
 head over heels over the fall, but he was not much hurt, and 
 scrambled out below. The others passed over safely, and 
 we hurried up the steep ascent over the other side for some 
 considerable distance till we were concealed among the 
 trees, and safe from the fire of the troops. I thanked God 
 for my escape from my rescuers, and felt any thing but 
 charitably disposed toward their rulers, who ought years 
 ago to have cleared their country from these ruffians, in- 
 stead of leaving them alone till they carried off an English- 
 man. 
 
 We rested among the trees until nightfall. At sunset 
 we saw about two hundred soldiers in a body ascending 
 the opposite bank by a path from the stream. They cheer- 
 ed as they marched along. I turned to the brigands and 
 said, "You have lost some comrades." They did not choose 
 to admit this. After dark some more shots were heard, 
 and the band was surprised again. The other prisoners 
 managed to escape. Lucky fellows, they were but small 
 fry, and were forgotten in the excitement of the fight ; but 
 the greatest care was taken of me. I was never allowed a 
 chance for a moment. When it was dark, we saw the biv- 
 ouac fire of the troops. We had no fire, but lay down un- 
 der our capotes, I lying between two men. We soon forgot 
 our fatigue in sleep, and an hour before sunrise I was waked 
 up, stiff from the cold and wet, for the passage through the 
 river had thoroughly soaked me. The walking, however, 
 warmed us, and after an hour's march, by which time the
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 15 to 20. 95 
 
 day had dawned, we reached a spot hidden by broom, all 
 golden with the yellow blossoms. It was a lovely place, 
 the ground mossy, and covered with luxuriant creepers, 
 graceful ferns, and foxgloves. Here we rested, a murmur- 
 ing stream running below. 
 
 The ferns were at least ten feet high. ' I laid down and 
 tried to sleep, but my thoughts would not allow me. I kept 
 thinking of the desolate situation of my wife, and of the anx- 
 iety that would be felt by my family in England. I looked 
 round for a chance of escaping, and edged off as far as I 
 could from the men, but the slightest movement caused them 
 to look after me with the cry Che fate? We were on the 
 edge of a hill, at the base of which ran the rivulet, crossed 
 by a rude bridge formed of the trunk of a tree. We saw 
 soldiers passing at intervals all day in small bodies, eight or 
 ten at a time, over the bridge and along a bridle-path near. 
 It struck me that I might run off and cry out to the sol- 
 diers ; but it was soon intimated to me by the brigands 
 (they must have divined what was passing in my mind) that 
 if I attempted to escape I should be shot at once. I noticed 
 that the soldiers looked like mites, thus showing the great 
 height of the mountain, and the distance we were from 
 them. I now turned my attention to nearer objects, look- 
 ing at the violets and forget-me-nots. I then read my Pray- 
 er-book, which I had found in my pocket. This was a great 
 find, and afforded me the greatest comfort throughout my 
 captivity. I read some of the Psalms, which brought tears 
 to my eyes. The brigands soon perceived this, and entreat- 
 ed me not to be down-hearted, as they would not hurt me 
 if they got the money soon. I told them that it was not 
 fear, but grief for what my wife was suffering on my ac- 
 count. Talking, however, was not my humor then, and I 
 would say no more to them, but returned to my sad medita- 
 tions.
 
 96 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 A little animal now came to make friends with me. I 
 heard a slight rustle in some broom by my side. I looked 
 round and saw the sleekest little mouse perched on the 
 branch of a shrub of broom. It was of a fawn color, with 
 the brightest black eyes, and apparently very tame. As long 
 as I looked at it it never moved, and only stirred when I put 
 my hand near it, and then it only ran down the stem, but 
 soon returned again. I felt very friendly to this little crea- 
 ture when I saw how beautifully and perfectly it was form- 
 ed. I then thought of its Creator, who had called it into 
 being, and who, as a benevolent Deity, had provided, as 
 might be expected, for its nourishment. I drew consola- 
 tion from this thought of God's care. My attention was 
 drawn off from my little friend by the soldiers, and when I 
 looked again he had gone, and did not return. I felt very 
 hungry, for I had had no food since yesterday. I kept ask- 
 ing for bread, but was told that it was impossible to get any 
 on account of the troops who were continually patroling 
 round us ; but I kept asking all day, for I felt it was nothing 
 to me what risk they ran in getting food. At last my friend 
 Justi, who always pitied me, said he would go and try to 
 get some. " There are kind hearts every where." He ask- 
 ed me if I had any money. I gave him a two-franc piece, 
 but he said that was not enough, so I gave him five francs, 
 and off he went. In about an hour he returned with some- 
 thing tied up in a cotton handkerchief, which proved to be 
 Indian-corn bread broken in pieces. It seemed delicious, 
 for I was almost starving. I had no scruple about eating 
 more than my share, and I put some into my pocket, but a 
 very small portion, as the whole quantity brought was very 
 little, and I was obliged to leave some for them. The old 
 proverb is very true, " Hunger is the best sauce." No gour- 
 mand ever enjoyed his perigord pie as I did my dry crusts
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 15 to 20. 97 
 
 in the mountains. The flavor was exquisitely nice. It was 
 now getting late in the afternoon, when some more soldiers 
 passed. When once they were out of sight, we began to 
 descend the mountain, keeping as much under cover as we 
 could. I now saw how little chance I should ever have of 
 escaping from the brigands. They ran down the mountain 
 like goats, while I had to be careful to pick my way at every 
 step. How could I hope to run away under these circum- 
 stances ? 
 
 Accustomed to mountains from their earliest youth, they 
 were as sure-footed as the goats, and had eyes like cats; 
 darkness and light, daytime or night, made not the slightest 
 difference to them. Their hearing, too, was most acute. 
 This sense they had cultivated to such a pitch, that, like the 
 red Indians, the slightest rustle of the leaves, the faintest 
 sound, never escaped their notice. Men miles distant work- 
 ing in the fields, or mowing the grass, they could distinguish 
 with the greatest ease. They knew generally who they 
 were, young and old, and to what village they belonged ; 
 when I, perhaps, could barely distinguish living beings, 
 they could describe all their motions. We crossed the 
 stream again at dusk, and walked along the path lately trav- 
 ersed by the troops for some distance, and then turned off 
 to the left, through a very thick wood, ascending for some 
 hours. At last we reached the summit ; the brigands now 
 stopped, and there was hesitation and doubt in their man- 
 ner. I could perceive that they did not know the road ex- 
 actly. The direction we were pursuing, namely, N.W., 
 would have led us to a sheer precipice. After a little con- 
 sultation, a divergence to the westward was pronounced 
 feasible. I declared it impossible ; but, seeing two of them 
 descend, I, for the honor of my country, followed. 
 
 It was so steep that we had to descend by aid of our 
 E
 
 98 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 hands, with our faces to the mountain ; in fact, I turned my- 
 self from a biped into a four-legged animal. The old adage 
 came to my mind, " You never know what you can do till 
 you try." Without the assistance of the bushes and trees 
 that grew there, it would have been impossible to descend. 
 After a tiresome descent of an hour in the dark (for there 
 was no moon), we reached the bottom. As far as I could 
 make out, it was a curious, picturesque spot, the mountains 
 rising all around, and on the south side a great square block 
 of stone jutting out like a castle. 
 
 On the northwest side, the sloping side of the mountain 
 looked as if covered with snow. This effect proved to be 
 produced by a kind of white limestone broken in small pieces. 
 I put some in my pocket, but found, after some time, that 
 specimens of geology and natural history were very incon- 
 venient to carry, and they were all thrown away. By de- 
 grees, as our marches became more fatiguing, we walked 
 over the broken limestone, and kept passing up and down 
 hills, over most difficult and pathless places, where every 
 spot had to be felt carefully by the foot before the weight 
 of the body was trusted on it. I constantly trod on loose 
 stones with my foot, and was in continual danger of sprain- 
 ing my ankle as I walked on in the dark. It was " Mind 
 your steps, sir," at every moment, and woe betide me if I 
 did not. We continued this march until daybreak, when 
 we rested and endeavored to sleep. I found out, to my an- 
 noyance, that during this march I had lost a signet-ring I 
 much valued. I had put it in my pocket for security, and 
 this pocket had got torn in our scramble down the side of 
 the mountain. 
 
 May 18. I slept till eight or nine o'clock, and, on awaking 
 and looking round, I found we were just above the dry bed 
 of a stream that in winter ran down the mountain-side. We
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 15 to 20. 99 
 
 were facing the west, and at about half a mile off ran a 
 stream like a delicate little silver serpent, twisting in and 
 out of the bushes and green banks ; on the other side of it 
 was a bridle-path. "We saw several bodies of troops pass 
 during the day, who were always watched with the great- 
 est interest, and the merits of the different sorts of soldiers 
 were freely discussed. I tried to get as far away from my 
 guardians as I could, and then began to think over some 
 plan of escaping. I propped up my straw hat on a peg, so 
 that the men, who were all below me, might think I was 
 sleeping, and then tried to edge off and to be ready for a 
 run when more soldiers came ; but one, who was very wary, 
 and who turned out to be one of the four brigaudesses, 
 changed her position so as to see the place where I was. 
 
 The day seemed very long. I read my Prayer-book. See- 
 ing some " Forget-me-nots," they reminded me strongly of 
 happy days in England, and, for want of any thing better to 
 amuse me, I picked one and fastened it in my Prayer-book 
 with a little piece of a postage-stamp I had in my pocket. 
 Very curiously, without knowing it, I placed it just over the 
 Gospel for the fifteenth Sunday after Trinity. Our Savior 
 there draws lessons from the flowers of the field. The little 
 flower that I had plucked always afterward spoke volumes 
 to me in my solitude, and I drew intense comfort from the 
 thought that God, who cares for the lilies of the field, would 
 not forget me, and felt convinced that I should be saved in 
 time ; but I felt very wretched when I thought I might 
 never again see those who were dear to me. 
 
 I was dreadfully hungry, and found in my pocket a piece 
 of the Indian-corn bread as large as a walnut ; this soon 
 went, and I turned out all my pockets, and discovered to 
 my joy the little cabbage I had put away on the 15th. I ate 
 that raw, and thought it any thing but disgusting. I now
 
 1 00 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 found two roots of garlic: one satisfied me, the flavor being 
 rather strong (how soon I was cured of all daintiness ! 
 Before I was with the brigands the smell of garlic alone was 
 nauseous to me, let alone the taste) the other I put again 
 into my pocket. We had had some water to drink during- 
 the night, and with this I was obliged to be satisfied till the 
 evening. A village was near, for we heard the bells of the 
 church chiming the hours. I fancied we were near Castel- 
 lamare ; but, on asking one of the brigands if it were so, he 
 replied " Yes," and I knew then at once that it could not 
 be, for it is always the brigands' principle to deceive their 
 captives as to where they are. At dusk we started again, 
 finding it much farther to the river than I imagined ; the 
 stream was full of water, and running down very fast. We 
 stepped from stone to stone and got over dry-footed, fol- 
 lowed the path some way, and then, as yesterday, diverged 
 over mountains and through woods for four or five hours, 
 till, having reached an open part at the summit of a mount- 
 ain covered with grass, there was a halt, and we lay down 
 to sleep. The night was very cold, wet, and foggy in fact, 
 we were actually in the clouds. Every night hitherto I had 
 been allowed a capote to myself, but to-night some of the 
 brigands growled at the cold, and one came to share my 
 cloak with me. I did not approve of this, but I had to sub- 
 mit ; the other three slept under another capote. 
 
 May 19. We woke up an hour before daybreak, stiff from 
 the cold ; I could not move till I had rubbed my knees for 
 ten minutes. We started again down hill, and then along 
 a path up another mountain. Walking by daylight for once 
 in a way was a great treat to me, not only on account of the 
 light, but also from having a path. As the sun got up we 
 grew very thirsty, for we had only dared to stop half a 
 minute for a drink the evening before, on account of the
 
 Diary of Mr. Hoem^Hay 15 to 20. 101 
 
 place being dangerous, and we had passed no streams dur- 
 ing the night. After some time a search was made for 
 snow, and at last, in a most unlikely place, under leaves, 
 some was found. It was most delicious, and as we walked 
 on I kept eating it. The brigands laid down on the ground 
 and lapped up the water that had thawed, and was running 
 among the decayed leaves. I thought of fever, and pre- 
 ferred the snow. Soon after this we passed a spring, where 
 we stopped to rest and drink at about eleven o'clock. 
 
 I was here told that we were near the main body of the 
 band, and on emerging from the trees we saw the captain 
 and about twenty-five of his men reclining on the grass in 
 a lovely glade, surrounded by large beech-trees, whose lux- 
 uriant branches swept the lawn. Several sheep and goats 
 were tethered near, cropping the grass. The men, with 
 their guns in their hands, their picturesque costumes and 
 reclining postures, the lovely light and checkered shade of 
 the trees, made a picture for Salvator Rosa. But I do not 
 believe that Salvator Rosa, or any other man, ever paid a 
 second visit to brigands, however great his love of the pic- 
 turesque might be, for no one would willingly endure brig- 
 and life after one experience of it, or place himself a second 
 time in such a perilous situation. 
 
 The band all rose, and looked very pleased at seeing me, 
 for we had been separated from them since the fight on the 
 17th, and they were in great fear that I might have es- 
 caped, or have been rescued by the troops. I stepped for- 
 ward and shook hands with the captain, for I considered it 
 my best policy to appear cheerful and friendly with the 
 chief of my captors. He met me cordially in a ready way, 
 and asked me how I was. I said I was very tired and hun- 
 gry, so he immediately sent one of his men off, who re- 
 turned in a few minutes with a round loaf of bread, and
 
 102 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 another loaf with the inside cut out, and packed full of cold 
 mutton cut into small pieces and cooked. I asked for salt, 
 and was told it was salted. When cooked the meat tasted 
 delicious to me, though it was awfully tough, for I had not 
 had meat since luncheon on Monday, in the temples of Paes- 
 tum, four days before. I ate a quantity, and then asked for 
 water, which was brought to me in a large leathern flask, 
 with a horn round the top, and a hole on one side serving 
 to admit air, as the water was required for drinking. I had 
 observed a large lump of snow suspended by a stick through 
 its centre, between two forked sticks ; the water dripping 
 from it was collected in flasks, and then drank. There were 
 two or three of these flasks. The captain asked me if I was 
 satisfied. I answered " Yes." 
 
 I was then told that there were two more companions 
 for me. I was taken through a gap in the trees to the rest 
 of the band, about seventeen in number. Here I found 
 those who were destined to be my companions for the next 
 three weeks. A young man about twenty-eight, with a 
 black beard of a month's growth, dressed just like Manzo's 
 band, who was introduced to me as Don Cice, alias Don 
 Francesco Visconti, and one Tomasino, his cousin, a boy of 
 fourteen years old. I shook hands with them, and condoled 
 with them on our common fate, which Don Francesco de- 
 scribed as fearful. I was told to sit down on one side, 
 which I did, and looked around me. 
 
 The spot seemed perfect Tor concealment. We were at 
 the top of a high mountain, entirely surrounded by high 
 trees, excepting two small gaps serving for entrances, oppo- 
 site to each other. The surface of the ground was quite 
 level. About twenty yards away, on the side opposite to 
 where I entered, there was a quantity of snow, from which 
 they cut the large pieces for drinking purposes. I saw five
 
 Diary of Mr. Hoens, May 15 to 20. 103 
 
 or six men bringing a fresh block, which they had just cut, 
 and slung on a pole. It was now a little before midday, 
 and they were preparing a caldron full of pasta (a kind of 
 macaroni), which was ready by twelve o'clock. Some was 
 offered to me, which I accepted. One brigand proposed 
 putting the pasta into a hollow loaf, but another brigand 
 brought forward a deep earthen-ware dish of a round shape. 
 I thought milk would be an improvement, so I asked for 
 some. Two men went to the goats and brought some in a 
 few minutes. The pasta was very clean and well cooked. 
 What with the meat and bread, and this pasta, I made an 
 excellent dinner, and felt much better. The pasta was all 
 devoured in a few minutes by the band, who collected round 
 the caldaja, and dipped in spoons and fingers. I had now 
 leisure to examine the men ; they were a fine, healthy set 
 of fellows. 
 
 Here the two divisions of the band were united, thirty 
 men under the command of Gaetano Manzo, and twelve un- 
 der Pepino Cerino. The latter had the two prisoners, who 
 had been taken on the 16th of April near the valley of Gif- 
 foni, at five o'clock in the afternoon, as they were returning 
 from arranging some affairs connected with the death of a 
 relative. 
 
 The smaller band had four women with them, attired like 
 the men, with their hair cut short at first I took them for 
 boys ; and all these displayed a greater love of jewellery 
 than the members of Manzo's band. They were decked out 
 to do me honor, and one of them wore no less than twenty- 
 four gold rings, of various sizes and stones, on her hands at 
 the same moment; others twenty, sixteen, ten, according to 
 their wealth. To have but one gold chain attached to a 
 watch was considered paltry and mean. Cerino and Manzo 
 had bunches as thick as an arm suspended across the breasts
 
 104 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 of their waistcoats, with gorgeous brooches at each fasten- 
 ing. These were sewed on for sectmty ; little bunches of 
 charms were also attached in conspicuous positions. I will 
 now describe the uniforms of the two bands. Manzo's band 
 had long jackets of strong brown cloth, the color of wither- 
 ed leaves, with large pockets of a circular shape on the two 
 sides, and others in the breasts outside ; and a slit on each 
 side gave entrance to a large pocket that could hold any 
 thing in the back of the garment. I have seen a pair of 
 trowsers, two shirts, three or four pounds of bread, a bit 
 of dirty bacon, cheese, etc., pulled out one after another 
 when searching for some article that was missing. The 
 waistcoats buttoned at the side, but had gilt buttons down 
 the centre for show and ornament; the larger ones were 
 stamped with dogs' heads, birds, etc. There were two 
 large circular pockets at the lower part of the waistcoats, 
 in which were kept spare cartridges, balls, gunpowder, 
 knives, etc. ; and in the two smaller ones higher up, the 
 watch on one side and percussion caps in the other. This 
 garment was of dark blue cloth, like the trowsers, which 
 were cut in the ordinary way. 
 
 The uniform of Cerino's band was very similar, only that 
 the jacket and trowsers were alike of dark blue cloth, and 
 the waistcoat of bright green, with small round silver but- 
 tons placed close together. When the jackets were new 
 they all had attached to the collars, by buttons, capuces, 
 or hoods, which are drawn over the head at night or when 
 the weather is very cold, but most of them had been lost in 
 the woods. A belt about three inches deep, divided by 
 two partitions, to hold about fifty cartridges, completed the 
 dress, which, when new, was very neat-looking and service- 
 able. Some of the cartridges were murderous missiles. 
 Tin was soldered round a ball so as to hold the powder,
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 15 to 20. 105 
 
 which was kept in by a plug of tow. "When used the tow 
 was taken out, and, after the powder was poured down the 
 barrel, the case was reversed, and, a lot of slugs being add- 
 ed, was rammed down with the tow on the top. These 
 must be very destructive at close quarters, but they gener- 
 ally blaze at the soldiers, and vice versa, at such a distance, 
 that little harm is done from the uncertain aim taken. 
 Most of them had revolvers, kept either in the belts or the 
 left-hand pocket of their jackets ; they were secured by a 
 silk cord round their necks, and fastened to a ring in the 
 butt of the pistol. Some few had stilettos, only used for 
 human victims. Many wore ostrich feathers with turned- 
 up wide-awakes, which gave the wearers a theatrical and ab- 
 surd appearance. Gay silk handkerchiefs round their necks 
 and collars on their cotton shirts made them look quite 
 dandies when these were clean, which was but seldom. 
 
 At last, tired of watching the band, I lay down and fell 
 asleep. I slept for some hours, during which a poor sheep 
 was dragged into the inclosure, killed, cut up, cooked in the 
 pot, and eaten. I must have slept until near sunset, for 
 when I awoke another sheep was being brought forward, 
 and I watched the process of killing and cutting up the poor 
 beast. The sheep was taken in hand by two men, Generoso 
 and Antonio generally acting as the butchers of the band. 
 One doubled the fore legs of the sheep across the head ; the 
 other held the head back, inserting a knife into the throat, 
 and cutting the windpipe and jugular vein. It was then 
 thrown down and left to expire. When dead, a slit was 
 made in one of the hind legs near the feet, and an iron ram- 
 rod taken and passed down the leg to the body of the ani- 
 mal ; it was then withdrawn, and the mouth of one of the 
 men placed to the slit in the leg, and the animal was inflated 
 as much as possible and then skinned. When the skin was 
 
 E 2
 
 106 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 separated from the legs and sides, the carcass was taken and 
 suspended on a peg on a tree, through the tendon of a hind 
 leg; the skin was then drawn off the back (sometimes the 
 head was skinned, but this rarely). The skin was now 
 spread out on the ground to receive the meat, etc., when 
 cut off the body; the inside was taken out, the entrails be- 
 ing drawn out carefully and cleaned ; these were wound 
 round the inside fat by two or three who were fond of this 
 luxury Sentonio, and Andrea the executioner, generally 
 performing this operation. These delicacies, as they were 
 considered, being made about four inches long and about 
 one inch in diameter, are fried in fat or roasted on spits. 
 It was some time before I could bring myself to eat these, 
 but curiosity first, and hunger afterward, often caused me 
 to eat my share, for I soon learned it was unwise to refuse 
 any thing. 
 
 While these two men were preparing the inside, the oth- 
 er two were cutting up the carcass. The breast was first 
 cut off, and then the shoulders ; the sheep was then cut in 
 half with the axe, and then the bones were laid on a stump 
 and cut through, so that it all could be cut in small pieces. 
 One man would hold the meat, while another would take 
 hold of a piece with his left hand and cut with his right. 
 As it was cut up, the pieces would be put into a large cot- 
 ton handkerchief, which was spread out on the ground ; the 
 liver and lungs were cut up in the same way ; the fat was 
 then put in the caldaja, and, when this was melted, the kid- 
 neys and heart (if the latter had not been appropriated by 
 some one) were put in, cooked, and eaten, every one help- 
 ing himself by dipping his fingers in the pot. The pieces 
 of liver were considered the prizes. All the rest of the 
 sheep was then put in the pot at once, and after a short time 
 the pot was taken off the fire and jerked, so as to bring the 
 under pieces to the top.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 15 to 20. 107 
 
 They liked the meat well cooked ; and when once pro- 
 nounced done, it was divided into as many equal portions 
 as there were numbers present ; the captives being treated 
 as " companions" the term they always used in speaking 
 of one another I soon found that the sooner I picked up 
 my share the better. If there was no doubt about their be- 
 ing plenty for all, the food was never divided. Then they 
 dived with their hands, whoever ate fastest coming off best. 
 I could only eat sloAvly, having to cut all the meat into 
 shreds, as it was so tough ; so I always took as much as 
 they would let me, and retired to my lair, like a dog with 
 his bone. If I finished this before all was gone, I returned 
 for more, it being always necessary to secure as much as 
 possible, as one was never sure when more food would 
 be forthcoming, and it is contrary to brigand etiquette to 
 pocket food when eaten thus. When it was divided, I 
 might of course do as I liked with my share, but even then 
 it was prudent not to allow them to know that I had re- 
 served a stock in my pocket, or I was sure to come off short 
 on the next division taking place. The skin was now taken 
 and stretched out to dry, and then used to sleep on. I now 
 had a talk with Visconti, who told me he had been with the 
 brigands more than a month, having been taken by Pepi- 
 no's band of twelve men close to his house in Giifoni, with 
 his little cousin Tomasino. 40,000 ducats was the price 
 asked for him, of which 9000 had already been paid. He 
 complained woefully of the life and the scarcity of food, 
 though he had never really suffered from want, the band 
 having laid their hands on twenty sheep at once while he 
 was with them. The length of the days troubled him 
 much. He had not had much walking, and had been eight 
 days in the present encampment. He had suffered from 
 fever for some days, but was now better. He looked very
 
 108 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 white and puffy in the face. Little Tomasino was as fat as 
 possible, and seemed to enjoy his life like a child, not reflect- 
 ing on the danger of his situation. He was a great favorite 
 with the band, and was already half a brigand. While 
 talking, we were startled by an accidental shot from one of 
 the brigand's guns ; this made a great stir among the band, 
 and called down the severe displeasure of the captain, who 
 scolded the delinquent most warmly. It now grew dark, 
 and the captain came round and told me to lie down on two 
 sheepskins which had been assigned to me. A wallet was 
 given me for a pillow, and also a capote. I was very tired, 
 notwithstanding my sleep in the afternoon, and soon fell 
 asleep. The captain and ten or twelve men went down the 
 mountain in the mean time to watch. About eleven o'clock 
 we were awakened by firing, and there was soon a volley, 
 by which we knew they had fallen in with the troops. Aft- 
 er a time all was quiet again, and toward the morning the 
 captain returned with the news that one of the men had 
 been shot while carrying bread and sundries in a handker- 
 chief on his gun over his shoulder. He feh 1 immediately. 
 
 (Signer D afterward told me that it was his act.) 
 
 There was great lamentation ; and, at an hour before sun- 
 rise, the whole band was collected, and started off in flight. 
 On the 20th we did not march very far, only walking 
 about two hours in the shade of the wood till we got lower 
 down, where we rested for the day. A great deal of gam- 
 bling went on all day long. Pepino's band were the play- 
 ers, for they had lately received 9000 ducats of Visconti's 
 ransom. Their game was something of this sort : three or 
 four men sat round a handkerchief spread on the ground ; 
 three half Napoleons were then put into a wide-awake, the 
 lining being first torn out. The hat was then shaken, and 
 turned over, so as to drop out the coins, which were then
 
 Diary of Mr. Hoens, May 15 to 20. 109 
 
 concealed by the hat. Money is now staked on the croce 
 or capo. All clay long it was a perpetual " cinque a cinque 
 capo, mnf a vinte" and so on. I was always apprehensive 
 of danger when the gambling was going on, for after a few 
 minutes there was sure to be a quarrel, and when their pas- 
 sions were roused they were always more inclined to treat 
 me badly. Loud voices would be heard, those making the 
 greatest noise demanding silence, and the captain, who was 
 as inveterate a gambler as any of them, would storm and 
 rage at his men in the most furious manner. The gambling 
 would often be carried on in the most dangerous places, 
 even when the soldiers were known to be near, and when 
 the risk attending a quarrel among themselves might easily 
 have been fatal to the brigands.* 
 
 No fire was made to-day on account of the proximity of 
 the soldiers, who disturbed the band last night. Bread in 
 small quantities was divided among us, but there was no 
 water. Two hours before sunset we started again, there 
 being great groans from Visconti and many of the band on 
 account of the long walk before us seven or eight hours' 
 march ; for, though always walking, the brigands dislike 
 and dread much of it. Soon after starting it began to rain 
 hard. I turned my flannel trowsers up to my knees and 
 put on my capote, thinking it better to endure a little 
 cold than get my trowsers wet. This horrified the brig- 
 ands, who were most anxious that I should put them down 
 again, saying that it was very injurious to expose the knees. 
 I told them it was the Scotch fashion, and Scotland had 
 plenty of rain, and the people were renowned for their cour- 
 age, strength, and good sense. The grass and trees were 
 
 * " It is worthy the observing, that there is no passion in the mind of 
 
 man so weak but it mates and masters the fear of death." Bacon's Es- 
 gays.
 
 110 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 very wet, and our boots and socks were soon wet through. 
 In a short time we left the wood, and falling on a path, we 
 pursued our way with the greatest caution, the captain be- 
 ing always in advance, and the others following in Indian 
 file. The captives had to march toward the rear, with 
 about four or five men behind them ; one man, Pavone by 
 name, being especially charged to take care of me. He 
 was responsible for me, and if I had escaped his life would 
 have been forfeited. Another, called Scope,* who was also 
 charged never to leave me, was behind me. These two 
 never left me, day or night. Scope, with two others, came 
 from Acerno, and had only joined the band a few days be- 
 fore we were captured. He had been a zappatore, or labor- 
 er in the fields ; his nature was most brutal. He was al- 
 ways with me, and invariably ill-treated me. He grudged 
 me every morsel I had to eat, and whenever he gave me 
 any food he always threw me my portion as if I had been a 
 dog. He was a tall, spare man, about twenty-two years 
 old, with a long, thin face, with large nose and large eyes. 
 His eyes had always a mournful expression, and were con- 
 stantly fixed on the ground. Remorse for some fearful 
 deed of murder was clearly written on his countenance, as 
 though he were already suffering for it. I often used to 
 charge him with thinking of his victim, but he would never 
 admit it a shake of the forefinger or contemptuous tap on 
 the head being all the answer he would deign to give me. 
 We now came to a long stripe of open ground, the forest 
 of large beech-trees skirting it on the left, and the mount- 
 ain, with a gentle slope, rising on the right. Some of this 
 ground was cultivated, and had just been plowed and sown 
 with maize, or granone, as they call it. We were cautioned 
 against speaking, or walking on the soft ground, and were 
 * Abbreviated from Scopecchio.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 15 to 20. Ill 
 
 told to tread upon the grass, so that we might not leave 
 any traces to betray our track to the troops, or to any of 
 that class called by the brigands infame the term they 
 use for informers, and all those who are not well-disposed 
 toward them, and would give any notice or information to 
 the authorities. After walking some hours' time we passed 
 several pagliatte, or straw conical huts. Some little distance 
 from us there was a light in the last of these, arising from 
 a wood fire in front. We were halted while some of the 
 advance guard went up to reconnoitre. One brigand went 
 forward to speak to the occupants, who proved to be shep- 
 herds ; they had put out the fire as the band approached, 
 and after a short conversation the two shepherds were 
 brought down to the captain, who had remained with the 
 band under a large spreading oak-tree. I stepped forward, 
 longing to see an honest face, but was roughly pulled back, 
 and told to stop where I was. My blood boiled for a mo- 
 ment, but I restrained myself, and endeavored to show in- 
 difference by a shrug of the shoulders. It was their inva- 
 riable practice to prevent their captives from seeing or 
 speaking to the peasants. I inquired why this was so, and 
 was told that the peasants object to it, for fear of being rec- 
 ognized and denounced afterward when the prisoner has 
 been ransomed and is free. The captain asked me if I 
 should like some milk. I cheered up a little at the prospect 
 of a drink at last, and a large pailful having been brought to 
 me, I took it in my hands, and did not take it from my lips 
 till I felt I had had enough. This was the first opportunity 
 they had of observing my milk-consuming powers. They 
 were rather astonished, and I explained that " Latte me 
 place molto" as it did all English people. I did not know 
 when I should have a chance of drinking again, and acted 
 on Captain Dugald Dalgetty's plan of laying in a stock
 
 112 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 when I had the opportunity. The two Yiscontis hardly 
 drank any, being of opinion that it was unwholesome ; they 
 are like their countrymen they rarely touched milk. (In 
 Rome it is a common sight to see written in English, " Milk 
 sold here," English people being the principal consumers of 
 that beverage.) After a halt of about half an hour we con- 
 tinued our walk. Pavone asked me if I knew where Saler- 
 no was, and was annoyed at my pointing without any hesi- 
 tation toward it. Then followed a question as to where 
 Paestum (or Peste, as they call it) was. I pointed correctly 
 as before, and also showed them the directions in which lay 
 Rome, Apulia, and, lastly, England. They did not know the 
 north star, which was now shining brightly, the rain having 
 left off and the sky being quite clear ; and my knowing the 
 way, as they said, always, both by day or night, in any part 
 of the mountains, puzzled them immensely. They never 
 got over it, continually asking me throughout my captivity 
 how it was that I obtained this wonderful knowledge. 
 
 On this particular occasion, my extraordinary cleverness, 
 as they termed it, was their topic of conversation all night. 
 The ground we were now traversing was moi'e cultivated, 
 and we passed another river, the Viscontis and I being car- 
 ried across on the shoulders of some of the band. The path 
 then grew better and ran between hedges. It was now 
 very dark, and I had great difficulty in following, not being 
 able to see an inch before me, and was obliged to take 
 hold of the man walking before me, and to feel every step 
 before I ventured to put my foot to the ground. Some- 
 times I lagged a little, and those behind now and then gave 
 me a rap, and were in a great rage with me, Pavone indulg- 
 ing in a few oaths at the same time. After five hours' 
 walking our captors began to get very tired, and poor Vis- 
 ti was very foot-sore. I fortunately had a pair of well-
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 15 to 20. 113 
 
 fitting strong boots on, and, excepting that my right ankle 
 felt a little warm, I Avas well enough, and ready to walk on 
 for some hours more. I inquired how much longer we 
 should be walking. Some said half an hour, others four or 
 five hours ; the good-natured ones of the band always short- 
 ening the time to encourage us, the others doing the reverse. 
 It was almost an impossibility for them to tell the truth at 
 any time, on any subject. Another hour brought us to a 
 place where our approach disturbed some dogs, which bark- 
 ed most furiously till we were again far away from them. 
 We were now told that we were getting near our sleeping- 
 place ; the district got more wild and rocky, and we heard 
 the rushing sound of a mountain torrent, and, after follow- 
 ing it some little way, we came to a place with rocks rising 
 on each side, the river running between them, and leaving 
 a small level space between it and the rocks on one side.
 
 114 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 DIAEY OP ME. MOEXS, MAY 20 TO 27. 
 
 Brigands merry-making. The Captain watches over me while I sleep. 
 His protecting Care. Thoughts of Home. A Storm. The Ladies 
 of the Band. Doniella. Carmina. Maria. Antonina. Concetta. 
 Their Furniture. They think I am a Milord. The Government will 
 pay for me. A Night March. A terrific Climb. Method of selecting 
 Sentries. Threats of Mutilation. 
 
 May 20. The edge of the stream was fringed with bush- 
 es, two or three trees growing by the side of the rocks on 
 the right of the level ground. As soon as we arrived at 
 the camping-ground, the band gave themselves up to mirth 
 and merriment, as they always did on coming to any place 
 where they considered themselves perfectly safe. This en- 
 campment being below the level of the surrounding coun- 
 try, and the noise of the turbulent stream drowning the 
 sound of their voices, made them now feel themselves quite 
 secure. All but two or three burst out into one of their 
 favorite songs ; the others set to work to collect dead wood 
 for the fire, and to cut a curved branch, which was driven 
 into the ground near the fire, and on which was suspended 
 the caldaja or caldron, containing one of the sheep that 
 were killed when we left the top of the mountain in the 
 morning. The fire soon burnt up ; a quantity of wood was 
 piled on, and we all crowded round to warm and dry our- 
 selves, it having rained so heavily during our night's march. 
 The favorite song of the band was now sung by all, and the
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 20 to 27. 115 
 
 light shining on those standing and sitting round the fire, 
 as well as lighting up the little amphitheatre, made the 
 whole scene most picturesque. I walked two or three 
 steps to the river, in order to bathe my right ankle, which 
 felt a little warm. Immediately there was a cry of "Dove 
 andate ?" and it was with some difficulty that I persuaded 
 those who came to look after me to allow me to put my 
 foot into the icy cold water. They tried to persuade me 
 that it was most injurious, and that I should do myself some 
 serious harm, and they eventually made me come back to 
 the fire long before I had had time enough to bathe my 
 foot. 
 
 In a few minutes the meat was cooked enough to please 
 them, and divided into forty-five parts upon one of the ca- 
 potes three parts were given to the captives, the others 
 coming forward to take their share. All the bread had 
 been eaten during the day, so that we had to devour the 
 lumps of tough mutton alone. Two other fires were now 
 lighted up, and I tried to dry my capote and boots as much 
 as possible, but in a few minutes I was shown the place al- 
 lotted to me for the few hours that remained before sunrise. 
 
 The two Viscontis and I lay down together. I was on 
 the outside, with the captain close to me. To make doubly 
 sure, he put one leg over my chest ; I tried to shake it off, 
 but he would have it so ; and, being very tired, I tried to 
 forget all, and was soon asleep. 
 
 May 21. It seemed only five minutes when I was roused 
 up, hearing a stern voice say "Alza /" which is their word 
 for "get up." There was no denying them, so up I got, 
 grieving over our fate at having to start again, for I had 
 hoped, and fully expected, that we should have stopped 
 some time at this place. We climbed up the rocky bank, 
 and soon began to ascend a. mountain covered with beech-
 
 116 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 trees, the branches of which we had to bend on one side in 
 order to make our way through them. A tremendous thun- 
 der-storm now broke over us, with drenching rain, and after 
 getting thoroughly wet, we reached a grotto where we rest- 
 ed. Here I heard, to my horror, that the two poor proprie- 
 tors whom we had seen captured by the brigands, and who 
 had been our companions during the first night's walk and 
 the next day till the attack of the soldiers, had been mur- 
 dered on that occasion when trying to escape. (I after- 
 ward found out that this was not true. Luzzo had com- 
 plained of the cold on the evening of the 15th, and Manzo 
 generously lent him his own jacket. This Luzzo had on 
 when he escaped, and in it was a pocket-book containing 
 papers, some of which were accounts of laMge sums of mon- 
 ey expended for the band, while others were said to com- 
 promise certain neighboring proprietors.) This filled me 
 with anguish and anxiety as regarded my poor wife ; for if 
 she had heard that some of the ricattati had been killed, 
 she would at once fear for me. I asked Manzo where Luzzo 
 was, in order to be certain whether what I had heard was 
 true; for one of the principles of brigandage is never to tell 
 the truth, and the only way to ascertain any thing was to 
 ask several of my captors the same question, when I had an 
 opportunity of doing so alone, without the others hearing 
 me, and then, from the various answers, I would glean an 
 approximation to the truth. Sometimes six or seven of 
 them would give me quite different answers. The reply I 
 got from the captain was ''-Non c'," and that my letters 
 and money were not to be sent to Luzzo's house, but that 
 other arrangements had been made. lie took paper out of 
 his pocket-book, and unscrewed a little black tin ink-bottle, 
 in which was steel pen and some cotton waste ; a little wa- 
 ter was added to this and stirred up ; the water now be-
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 20 to 27. 117 
 
 came black and served for ink ; a large, flat, round loaf was 
 brought me to write on, and the captain began to dictate a 
 letter for me to write to our consul general at Naples. The 
 composition went on very slowly, by reason of my having 
 had very little practice in writing Italian, and the Neapoli- 
 tan dialect being so unlike the Roman, which is always 
 spoken by Englishmen. 
 
 "When this was done, the letter to my wife, which I had 
 written on the 19th, at the place where I joined the band, 
 was given back to me, to add a postscript, stating that all 
 letters and money were to be sent to the house of my fellow- 
 sufferer's father at Giffoni. 
 
 At twelve o'clock, noon, some pasta was cooked, which, 
 with a little bread, and still less raw fat bacon, constituted 
 our dinner. I now remembered that to-day was Sunday, 
 and I thought of home, and the many happy Sundays we 
 had spent there ; and of the little church, where I felt that 
 many silent prayers were being offered up on my behalf 
 (and where, as I afterward learnt, I was prayed for by name, 
 all those weary months that I remained in the hands of my 
 captors). I read all our beautiful Church service ; how dif- 
 ferent it appeared to me now, in my lonely and terrible po- 
 sition, to what it did when read in churches the prayers 
 and psalms seemed as though written for me ! What con- 
 fidence and trust they gave me, that by the grace of God I 
 should be delivered from the hands of those wicked men ! 
 From this day till I was set free, I never missed reading 
 through the whole of the morning service and litany. I 
 generally chose the afternoon about two o'clock, when the 
 band (like all Southerners), with the exception of the sen- 
 tries, all slept, and thus gave me a quiet interval from the 
 swearing, gambling, and disputing that were always going 
 on around me.
 
 118 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 At about two o'clock the captain and ten of the band 
 went off with my letters, and the others with us climbed 
 higher up the mountain. Soon after starting the sky grew 
 very dark, with every appearance of another storm, which 
 fortunately did not break until we were under the shelter 
 of a grotto about an hour's walk from where we had spent 
 the morning. The grotto was very smaE, and only afforded 
 room sufficient for Visconti and myself, little Tomasino creep- 
 ing in behind us. About five or six feet in front of the cave 
 was a large heap of snow that had remained unmelted in 
 consequence of a quantity of earth having fallen upon it 
 from the rocks above. I was about to eat some, but they 
 would not allow me because of the earth over it, which they 
 said generally made the snow injurious by means of poison- 
 ous matter washed from it. The cave was very damp, and 
 the sides covered with green mould ; the part between it 
 and the bank of snow was very uneven and sloping, so Sen- 
 tonio (who, though the oldest, yet was always the most act- 
 ive of the band) borrowed my stick, and with the point of 
 it dug up the upper part, and in a short time made a level 
 space large enough to accommodate the brigands with us. 
 The storm now broke, accompanied by a most furious show- 
 er of rain that lasted about half an hour, after which it be- 
 came fine again. This was the sort of weather we had for 
 at least six weeks, though all the time it was fine and with- 
 out a drop of rain in the plains of Naples and Salerno. To- 
 ward the evening a larger and drier grotto was discovered 
 by thos^J who went for water, a little lower down on the 
 right ; so we were moved to it after some hesitation on the 
 part of Sentonio, who had worked so hard in order to level 
 the ground; and we soon got wet again. How I hated 
 these changes after we had settled down quietly! Three 
 fires were, however, lighted on arriving at our new place
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 20 to 27. 119 
 
 of shelter, and we did our best to dry our boots and capotes. 
 Our supper consisted of pasta again. The captain and men 
 came back during the night with bread, some large sugar- 
 plums, which they call confetti, and two bottles of Itosolio, 
 which is a sort of sweetened rum. The captives had a 
 share of these, and we thoroughly enjoyed them, having 
 been without any luxury of the kind for a week. 
 
 May 22. To-day we had a repetition of the wet and 
 thunder of yesterday, and, to my horror, we went down to 
 the glen where we were yesterday morning, thus wetting 
 my boots through again. 
 
 Here I discovered that five of the band were briganclesses. 
 They were dressed exactly like the men, and their hair was 
 cut short, the only peculiarity in their clothing being small 
 boneless articles, which, I believe, ladies call corsets. They 
 exhibited none of that sanguinary and savage character 
 which I had always heard belonged to lady-brigands; all 
 were part of the goods and chattels of their respective mas- 
 ters. They were considered by all as the ultime compagne 
 of the band ; they had no share in the ransom money, and 
 were often beaten and ill-treated by their lords. Two of 
 them carried guns, and the other three revolvers. Two 
 were tall, fine, strong young women ; the third had a melan- 
 choly thin face, but the largest oval eyes I had ever seen ; 
 the fourth was an ugly, sulky girl, who always appeared to 
 refuse food or any thing offered to her, and the fifth was 
 very much like her. 
 
 Doniella, the partner of Pepino Cerino, the capo of the 
 small band of eleven men, who had taken Don Francesco 
 and his cousin Tomasino, was a strapping young woman 
 about nineteen years old, with a very good figure and hand- 
 some features, a pretty smile and splended teeth. She and 
 her husband were both very greedy, and always managed
 
 120 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 to secure a double share of food, which made them very un- 
 popular, and was eventually the cause of Pepino being de- 
 posed from his office of captain. She would sometimes give 
 us confetti, but always refused us any of the extra share of 
 food which she always had in her pocket. I often wonder- 
 ed how it was that she was generous enough to give me a 
 capuce or hood, of blue cloth, which she did dui'ing our 
 night's march of the 19th; but after six weeks I found out 
 that it belonged to Cerino, who, to my grief, came to claim 
 it when his band parted from Manzo's. This capuce was 
 the greatest comfort at night. I always tied a cotton hand- 
 kerchief, which they gave me, round my head, and then drew 
 on this hood of double cloth half over my face, keeping off 
 all wind and wet. 
 
 Carolina belonged to Giuseppe, a good-looking man, with 
 red fuzzy hair of prodigious length ; he was the dandy of 
 the band, and had the reputation of being rich that is, of 
 possessing 4000 ducats. Many were the rings and gold 
 chains on their persons and in their pockets, for a festa or 
 some grand occasion was necessary to draw out of the little 
 tin boxes that served them for jewel cases the wealth they 
 contained. Carmina was very good-natured, and would 
 nearly always give me any food she could spare. 
 
 Maria was the sulky girl. She hardly ever spoke to any 
 body, and when any one addressed her, a nod or shake of 
 the head was all the response she would deign to give ; she 
 would never give me any thing, or do any thing for me. 
 
 Antonina was the lotus-eyed damsel. She possessed a 
 cheerful disposition, and was always willing to do any thing 
 she could for me in the mending way. She attached her- 
 self to Generoso di Salerno, who fully carried out the import 
 of his name. Many a time, when food was very scarce, 
 would these two share with me the little that thev had
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 20 to 27. 121 
 
 saved from the previous day. I considered that all was-feir 
 in war, and never lost an opportunity of securing whatever 
 I could lay my hands on. Many a time I endeavored to 
 impress on them that, as an Englishman, I required double 
 the quantity that would suffice for them ; but I regret to 
 say that this had little effect, except in giving them the idea 
 that I had an insatiable appetite. 
 
 Concetta belonged to Cicco Guange, and was very similar 
 in disposition to Maria. 
 
 All these women had about them needles, scissors, cotton 
 and silk of various hues, as well as bits of cloth, and they 
 were always ready to do any repairs that were needful ; and 
 when a fresh supply of handkerchiefs (or maccatore, as they 
 were termed) arrived, they would all sit together and stead- 
 ily work away till they were done. During a thunder-storm 
 they would always cease working out of some religious 
 feeling and at every clap of thunder cross themselves. 
 Sunday was the same as other days as regarded working. 
 I tried to explain to them that they should rest from labor 
 on that day, but always without effect. 
 
 On the western side of this glen, in which we remained 
 all day, there was a high bank of earth, with the roots of 
 the large beech-trees protruding from it. In the winter the 
 glen served as a water-course; but it was now quite dry, 
 and served as a capital place of concealment, though on that 
 account it was all the worse for us. The dense forest of 
 beech-trees that clothed the whole side of the mountain 
 prevented us seeing beyond a very little way, and the 
 ground was every where covered with dead leaves, six inch- 
 es deep, packed closely together by the weight of the snow 
 in winter. 
 
 I looked round to discover something that might per- 
 chance serve to pass away the weary hours ; flowers there 
 
 F
 
 122 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 were none, but suddenly my eye rested on a twisted root, 
 about five inches thick. It struck me that I might be able 
 to manufacture a spoon, to be my own, so that it would not 
 be necessary to use one that had just been in the mouth of 
 a murderer. I got up, took the hatchet, and began with 
 gentle and silent strokes to cut a piece about six inches 
 long ; three or four of my guardians soon inquired what I 
 was doing, and told me not to make a noise. After five 
 minutes Pavone came up, and with two or three cuts, much 
 more violent than I had dared to make, separated the de- 
 sired piece. They asked what I wanted it for, and were 
 much amused when I told them that it was for the purpose 
 of making a spoon. This kept me amused for two whole 
 days; hour by hour I perseveringly kept whittling away 
 with a tiny little penknife, one and a quarter inches long, 
 with a most delicate little blade of the best steel I ever saw. 
 Many a day did that precious little knife amuse me, and 
 many a time did I refuse to lend it for fear it should come 
 to grief. Sometimes I was obliged to do so, but then I nev- 
 er rested till it was again safe in my possession. 
 
 It was very cold at night, and the ground being very wet 
 on account of the constant storms and rain, I always tried 
 to dry my capote as much as I could ; but the thick woolen 
 cloth absorbed so much water that I could never do so per- 
 fectly, and I always woke in the morning shivering with 
 cold, and with my joints quite stiff. I rubbed my knees for 
 some time, and then tried to get close to the fire, which 
 was always made at daybreak to thaw us, for many of the 
 L.md were without capotes, having lost them on the 16th, 
 when surprised by the troops. Some of the men would not 
 let me go near the fire until they were forced to do so by 
 those well-disposed toward me. When warm, or a little 
 less cold, I would try to go to sleep again till about eight
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens^ May 20 to 27. 123 
 
 o'clock, when we would eat what little was given to us, 
 generally at this time a little piece of very hard stale bread, 
 about three inches square. 
 
 May 23. Repetition of yesterday. 
 
 May 24. Great rain to-day. Early in the morning we 
 were sent to the cave above, where we had spent the 21st; 
 we got very wet, and had to lie in our wet things all day. 
 In the afternoon there was another frightful storm ; all the 
 brigands crossed themselves as peal succeeded peal of thun- 
 der. Toward the evening it was fine again, and after sun- 
 set the four men who had been out foraging returned with 
 a little bread and cheese. 
 
 May 25. To-day was very quiet, Visconti and I talking 
 to each other continually. Through disuse of my own lan- 
 guage, I found Italian much more easy than at first, and we 
 got on very well together. I asked him about country life 
 in Italy, and he, in return, of mine in England. He, as well 
 as the brigands, would have it that I was " My lord," and 
 that wretched little Tomasiuo would come up to me and 
 tell me that, from certain information the brigands had got, 
 I was possessed of 2,000,000 ducats, and that the Italian 
 government was going to pay my ransom, in which case 
 they would not be contented with the 50,000 asked, but 
 would not let me go under 1,000,000. This enraged me 
 immensely, and I. am afraid I sometimes was very unkind to 
 the poor little fellow. 
 
 To-day Visconti most generously gave me a thick flan- 
 nel sleeve -waistcoat, as he had two of these articles. It 
 was most acceptable to me, because I was most miserably 
 clothed, my dress being only suited to the hot plains. I do 
 not know how I should have got on without this extra gar- 
 ment. In the middle of the day some of the band arrived 
 with two sheep. I rejoiced to see them, for we had not
 
 124 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 had any meat for five or six days. The sheep were soon 
 killed, skinned, and in the great camp-kettle ; but Visconti 
 and I were horrified at finding we had to eat the meat with- 
 out bread. I had secured a heart, which I roasted on a 
 stick, and divided with Visconti, as I always did with any 
 thing that I could secure apart from the general division. 
 On searching in my pocket I found a little piece of bread, 
 which I had put away and forgotten ; this I ate as dessert, 
 in order to take away the taste of meat. We were told not 
 to eat all, but to reserve some for the evening. But now a 
 diificulty arose with us as regarded carrying it. The clean- 
 est thing we could produce was my white pocket-handker- 
 chief. There was no help for it I had to sacrifice it ; and, 
 wrapping up our joint store, I put it in the left pocket of 
 my coat, which from this time served as my larder. An 
 hour before sunset every thing was packed away, and we 
 were informed that a long march was before us. I was 
 very cold, and a biting wind was blowing, so that I was 
 rather rejoiced than otherwise, for I dreaded sleeping in 
 the open air these damp cold nights. I always dreaded, 
 too, waking up in the morning, on account of the piercing 
 cold dreaming, perchance, of home, and then suddenly find- 
 ing myself in the midst of these ruffians. 
 
 It was a long up-hill walk through the forest ; we rested 
 once for an hour, and then started off again in Indian file. 
 It was very dark, and again I had the greatest difficulty in 
 following. I found the best plan was to grasp with my left 
 hand the shoulder or muzzle of the gun of the man before 
 me. As we approached the summit of the mountain, the 
 force of the wind and cold increased. Several of those in 
 front went on, while we were halted and told to lie down, 
 as the tops of the mountains were always considered dan- 
 gerous, for the soldiers are often stationed there, and make 

 
 Diary of Mr. Moens^ May 20 to 27. 125 
 
 baraques, or round huts, of fresh-cut boughs, in which they 
 pass the nights. With what envy I passed these ! I looked 
 on them as palaces, and always asked the brigands why they 
 did not use them, but a shake of the forefinger was the in- 
 variable reply. After reconnoitring some way in advance, 
 a low whistle informed us that all was right. We were 
 told to rise, and a few steps took us to the top. 
 
 May 26. On looking about, I found that we were on the 
 summit of a very high mountain (Monte Polveracchio). 
 Morning was beginning to dawn, and I could perceive 
 mountains all round us. In the distance, toward the west, 
 I fancied I saw the sea, which proved to be the case. When 
 it grew more light, toward the northwest I perceived the 
 outline of the mountains at the back of Salerno, and stretch- 
 ing out to sea was the part beyond Vietri. I felt too mis- 
 erable to look longer in that direction, the idea of actually 
 seeing the place where my dear wife probably was being 
 too much for me. Fortunately, the march now required all 
 ray attention ; it was along the sharp edge of the summit, 
 and in many places a false step on either side would have 
 been attended with great danger, for, on account of the 
 precipices on each side, every step had to be taken with 
 care and judgment, the more so because of the furious wind 
 which threatened often to blow me over the edge. When 
 we had gone some way along this narrow part, I perceived 
 a town below us, on a small and perfectly level plain, one 
 end of which was covered with large chestnut-trees. This, 
 Visconti told me, was Acerno, a place which afterward be- 
 came of great importance to me, as I was eventually set free 
 when in the immediate neighborhood of it. 
 
 We now turned off toward the right down a very steep 
 descent ; I slipped and fell, the captain seeing which told 
 one of the band to carry my capote, which I was carrying
 
 126 English Travelers and Italian JSrigands. 
 
 on my back, rolled up and slung with a piece of cord. I 
 was delighted at being eased of my burden, and was able to 
 walk much more easily ; my feet were now in capital walk- 
 ing order, and my boots, though by no means new, still in 
 fair condition, and were stout, and fitted me well. This 
 was a great comfort, for it was heart-breaking to see poor 
 Don Francesco, who suffered dreadfully from blisters at his 
 heels, his feet being, as he expressed it,"Tutti consumati" 
 Little Tomasino walked capitally for a boy, but he and Vis- 
 conti were both constantly being urged on by the brigands. 
 I always walked in the front of them, and found no diffi- 
 culty in keeping up at their pace. After having descended 
 for about three quarters of an hour, we saw a frightful prec- 
 ipice rising perpendicularly on our left, and a deep ravine 
 below us. It was necessary to cross the ravine ; but the 
 opposite side was very perpendicular, and the rock very 
 loose and rotten. A halt was called while three or four de- 
 scended to see whether it was practicable to ascend the 
 other side. When they reached the bottom we watched 
 them in order to know if we should follow, but as soon as 
 they got up a yard or so the rock broke away, and down 
 they slid again ; at last, after about an hour, we saw one of 
 them appear on the large rock that jutted out at the top of 
 the precipice on our left, about 500 feet higher than where 
 we were. He called out to us, and we answered. Wo 
 were horrified with the idea of having to follow to that in- 
 accessible crag. I never saw a place more fitted for an 
 eagle's nest. \A11 those below had found it impossible to 
 follow Luigi in scaling the crumbling rock, his very ascent 
 having made it impracticable for those below him. He sat 
 down contentedly, and watched us below. After a short 
 time, we heard a call from the face of the precipice. We 
 looked round and saw two of the others clinging on to the 
 
 '
 
 Diary of Mr. Hoens, May 20 to 27. 127 
 
 face of it, and slowly creeping, without their shoes, along its 
 surface. At one spot where they stopped, the little ledge, 
 three or four inches wide, on which they had passed, came 
 to an end, and there was an interval of four or five feet 
 without an atom of support to the foot. Luigi saw the dif- 
 ficulty ; he descended to them, and, stretching out his arms, 
 helped the foremost one to pass. This was done successful- 
 ly, after some minutes' attempt, and when the others saw 
 him safe they all gave a little kind of cheer. I declared it 
 impossible to reach the place, for I saw no fun in risking 
 my neck for these wretches ; and poor Visconti kept appeal- 
 ing to heaven. All those with us looked very blue; but, 
 after the second man had passed safely, the captain stepped 
 forward and got over all right. The three now looked like 
 a little flock of goats, feeling as happy at having passed 
 safely as we felt miserable at the prospect of doing so. 
 
 I did not like the idea of being outdone by these men, so 
 I volunteered to go next. I found mere little knobs of rock 
 jutting out. Step by step I progressed, without daring to 
 take my eyes off my feet and the inequalities in the surface, 
 to which I clung with my hands. It was a fearful place. 
 I stopped for a moment to survey my position above. The 
 rock was 500 feet high, and below there was a sheer de- 
 scent of 800 to 1000 feet. I am fortunate enough to pos- 
 sess rather a hard head, not given to dizziness, but I confess 
 my position gave me rather a twist for a moment. How- 
 ever, the thought that the other three had passed gave me 
 courage, and on I crept. At last I arrived at the gap. 
 One of those that had passed canie to help me. I stretched 
 my right leg as far as I could, and, with a spring, over I 
 went, and, with a lighter heart, went gayly up the now com- 
 paratively easy ascent to the crag. One by one they all 
 came over. Poor Visconti was helped all the way, and
 
 128 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 when he reached us he was still uttering his pious ejacula- 
 tions, with his hands raised toward heaven. We now went 
 over the top, and descended among some enormous beeches 
 where the wood-cutters had been at work, leaving innumer- 
 able chips covering the ground. A little farther on we 
 halted for the day, and Luigi, an old brigand belonging to 
 Cerino's band, began to cut at a great piece of beechwood 
 with the axe. When he had got it about an inch thick, I 
 asked him what he was going to do with it, and he told me 
 that he was going to make a ramrod for a man called Roc- 
 co, who had broken the one belonging to his gun. Think- 
 ing it would amuse me for an hour or two to make it, I vol- 
 unteered to do so, and Luigi handed the stick over to me, 
 my skill at spoon-making having caused me to be consid- 
 ered talented, as they expressed it. It amused them much 
 to see my way of going to work. I rested one end against 
 my chest, and the other in a notch which I cut in a tree 
 with the axe, and then, taking one of their murderous 
 knives by the handle and point, I sliced little pieces off till 
 it was about the size required. All the band collected 
 round me, watching me with admiring eyes. After scrap- 
 ing it a little with some glass from a bottle broken on pur- 
 pose, and greasing it with a little piece of fat bacon, it was 
 pronounced perfect. I was rather proud of my work. It 
 was quite straight and round, and fitted the gun capitally. 
 
 When it was done, a bright thought struck me. I asked 
 them what it would cost in a town. "A ducat," was the 
 answer. Then I said, " It was surely worth two ducats in 
 the woods." " Sicuro" was the reply all round. " Then 
 give me half a marengo" I burst out ; " I do not see why 
 you should not pay me as well as a gunmaker." Pepino, 
 the capo, said nothing, but all the rest burst out laughing 
 for a quarter of an hour. I kept demanding it, saying "Da-
 
 Dianj of Mr. Moens, May 20 to 27. 129 
 
 temi il denaro /" and at last Pepino drew out half a Napo- 
 leon and handed it over to me ! I told them I should have 
 "La Banda di Mamo" cut on it, and that I should wear it 
 on my watch-chain. This delighted them immensely, and 
 they were good-tempered with me all that day, though 
 there was a great lack of food, and we were reduced to eat- 
 ing the crumbs and dirt at the bottom of our pockets, which 
 were always afterward reserved for such occasions. 
 
 An hour before sunset we started again, passing through 
 the dense forest, ascending all the time till we reached the 
 summit of the mountain. Here we rested till it grew dark, 
 when we began to descend the open grassy side facing the 
 southwest, leaving the woods behind us on the northern 
 slopes. This was generally the case with all the mountains, 
 the north side getting less of the hot burning sun, and thus 
 retaining more of the moisture, so necessary for forest-trees. 
 
 After a descent of 400 or 500 feet, we came to a shallow 
 ravine with a thicket of trees, which was to be a halting- 
 place for the night. They then proceeded to select the sen- 
 tinels for the night. This was done as follows : 
 
 All the band, except the women and those that were ill, 
 stand up and form a circle, and then, at a signal from the 
 captain, throw out their right hands, with various numbers 
 of fingers extended, in the same way as the national game 
 of "La Hforra" is played. The captain, now inside the cir- 
 cle, walks round and counts the fingers extended, and then, 
 retaking his place, counts from himself all round the circle, 
 and the unlucky man on whom the number falls, together 
 with his neighbors, have to commence the watch. Three 
 hours is the usual time. 
 
 I often used to offer to take my turn, especially when 
 only one sentinel was necessary, but I was always refused 
 with laughter and thanks. "We went supperless to bed ; 
 
 F2
 
 130 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 that is, we lay down on the damp ground, Don Francesco 
 and I under one capote, for his had been taken away by one 
 of the band, they considering that one capote was plenty for 
 two. There was always a debate how it was to be arranged, 
 Visconti wanting it to be all above us, but I being firm in 
 having a little piece underneath ; so we spread it over, and 
 then tucked in the sides underneath to lie upon; but, if 
 either turned, it reduced the other to grief. Many were the 
 growls this occasioned, for the wet soon made itself felt un- 
 less the cloak was well under us, and I always dreamt of 
 rheumatism. 
 
 May 27. We all woke up this morning very cold and 
 stiff. Little fires were lighted as usual, but here great cau- 
 tion was requisite because of our exposed position, and 
 many were the ravings directed against those warming 
 themselves, on account of more smoke rising than was con- 
 sidered prudent. They were all particularly savage this 
 morning, as food was wanting, and this always excited their 
 ire against the unfortunate captives, and at the present time 
 against me in particular, for no letters or money had been 
 received from my friends. For a long time they kept sur- 
 rounding me, pointing guns, revolvers, and knives at me, 
 explaining to me which were the most delicate parts of the 
 body, and how life was the most easily taken. 
 
 I always made it a point to appear perfectly unmoved on 
 these occasions. My invariable phrase was " Se volete" 
 implying that they were perfectly at liberty to take my life, 
 and that in doing so would save my friends and myself a 
 great deal of trouble and loss of money, and that I was 
 quite sure that they cared more for my money than for 
 taking my life. After a short time I found that my perfect 
 indifference rather amused them, and " Se volete" became 
 by-words of the band for every thing whereby indifference
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 20 to 27. 131 
 
 was implied. We had very little food the last two days, 
 but to-day there was nothing whatever, and I grumbled 
 immensely, telling them that Englishmen always eat double 
 the amount of food that Italians are satisfied with. Poor 
 Visconti wrung his hands, perpetually saying " Terribile ! 
 terribile /" Supperless we lay down last night, supperless 
 we did the same to-night, trying to make the best of it, and 
 hoping for better luck the next day.
 
 132 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 DlARY OF ME. MOENS, MAY 28. 
 
 The second Sunday. Good News for Visconti. More Letter- writing. 
 An Attempt at Sketching. The Englishman's Appetite. Alarms. 
 The Soldiers. A Tradimento. Death of Luigi. Thoughts of Es- 
 caping. The drying Process. Difficulty of Washing. A wounded 
 Brigandess. Assistance given by the Peasants to the Brigands. De- 
 scription of the Band. A regular Feed for once in a way. Pot-luck. 
 Unpleasant Sleeping-quarters. Sheep-stealers. 
 
 May 28. SUNDAY, and a lovely day ; the air as clear as 
 crystal. I counted seven separate ridges of mountains be- 
 tween our lair and Salerno. Each seemed to stand up clear 
 and distinct by itself. I could distinguish the white houses 
 of the town, and tried to fancy that I could see the Hotel 
 Vittoria. I could distinguish two steamers, which I set 
 down as Florio's boats, coming from or going to Palermo, 
 and I remembered our happy voyage from that city only a 
 little more than a fortnight ago. A trifle to the south I 
 could distinguish the temples of Psestum, and some ten 
 miles to the north of these a few white houses, representing 
 Battipaglia, where the ruffians who surrounded me had lain 
 in waiting for so many hours. The panorama was superb. 
 I tried to enjoy it, but my heart was too sad ; I could only 
 think of all those that were striving to procure my release. 
 
 At eleven o'clock I took out my Prayer-book and went 
 through the service, and thought of those many hundred of 
 thousands of our Church who were then doing the same.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 28. 133 
 
 As I read I was frequently interrupted by the brigands 
 asking me what I was reading, and wanting to look at the 
 book. After a few days they ceased troubling me in this 
 manner, for they all had great respect for any prayer or 
 other sacred book. 
 
 In the afternoon we inquired again when food was com- 
 ing, but could get no other response than an angry " Who 
 knows ?" All at once whistles and other signals were heard, 
 and immediately each grasped his gun and ran forward in a 
 stooping position to face the danger ; but the word " Com- 
 pagni" set them all at ease again, and Lorenzo Guerino and 
 four or five others came up. Visconti was in the greatest 
 state of excitement, and asked if there was any more money 
 for him. Joy spread over his countenance as they replied 
 in the affirmative, and seven fingers were held out to repre- 
 sent 7000 ducats. I wanted him to rush forward to receive 
 his letters, but he feared the ravings with which his impa- 
 tience would be met, for all letters were always read by 
 their lordships before being handed over to us prisoners ; 
 but Don Elia's writing was too much for Manzo or Andrea, 
 the secretary of Pepino, and Don Francesco was told to sit 
 down by Manzo's side, and read his father's letters out loud. 
 
 More signals were now heard, the same scene of excite- 
 ment was gone through, and Zacharia, a domestic of Vis- 
 conti's household, was led forward, bearing bread, wine, and 
 a little chocolate and some sweets from Don Elia and his 
 brother, in order, as the letter to Tomasino expressed it, 
 " to assuage that hunger of which you complain." This, of 
 course, was immediately taken by the band, and divided in 
 equal shares, Sentonio cutting all the cheese, supersato, and 
 sausages with scrupulous impartiality. I fortunately fell 
 across the little basket while Francesco Cicco had it. I saw 
 five cakes of chocolate, and appropriated two before I could
 
 134 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 be stopped for Visconti and myself, but, alas ! the women 
 got wind of this, and came to me for some. I had to dis- 
 gorge at least a third of what I had secured, and the sweets 
 were also divided, but Yisconti and I got none. They now 
 came for my leather drinking-cup, and the enormous bottle 
 of wine was speedily emptied, the cup being passed round 
 full to each. The day of starvation was turned into zfesta, 
 but at the expense of the two Viscontis ; for the supply of 
 food, which was meant to last them till more could be sent, 
 was eaten up at one fell swoop by these ruffians. Fifteen 
 thousand ducats had now been paid by the family of Vis- 
 conti for their two unfortunate members, and Don Elia, in 
 his letter, pleaded great poverty, and desired to know how 
 much more was requisite in order to free them. Many of 
 the band demanded all the sum originally asked, viz., 40,000 
 ducats, equal to 6800 ; but, after a thoroughly Italian dis- 
 pute, and many threats toward the unhappy victims, 25,000 
 ducats, or 4150, was the amount settled upon ; and it was 
 intimated that if this sum was not completed and sent im- 
 mediately, ears and fingers would be dispatched to Gifibni 
 forthwith. Poor little Tomasino was made to write in a 
 similar strain, only that his head was to be sent, ears and 
 all. It was a touching scene to see the poor little fellow 
 writing his letter in a large round-hand writing. 
 
 I was now taken in hand, and told to write to the consul 
 and my wife, but, to my great grief, was forbidden to write 
 one word of English. Visconti was tutored by Manzo as 
 to the substance of my letter, and, after a short time, two 
 long letters were written. I was very anxious that the in- 
 surance on my life should not be forgotten to be paid. So, 
 after a great, deal of trouble, I got leave to insert the names 
 of friends of mine in England, and with them a hint as to 
 the insurance.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moetis, May 28. 135 
 
 I had forgotten the date, and so misdated my letters the 
 26th instead of the 28th.* 
 
 The division of the food, eating it, and the letter- writing 
 had made the time pass so quickly that we had not noticed 
 the shades of evening that had darkened around us, and 
 down we lay again, thanking God for the merciful sending 
 of the food, which had turned our starvation into compara- 
 tive plenty the brigands who had brought the money hav- 
 ing also brought a large supply of bread. 
 
 During the night there was again an alarm, but this turn- 
 ed out to be a false one, or rather of no account ; but the 
 next day proved it to be a spy of the troops sniffing round 
 us. Had it been known who it was, his life would have an- 
 swered for it. 
 
 May 29. It was a cold, damp night, and in the morning, 
 when we were awakened by the usual kick and alarm, we 
 found every thing enveloped in a dense fog; the captain 
 told off ten men to go with him in order to receive the an- 
 swers to our letters, and any money that might be sent. 
 
 We were sent off under the charge of Pepino and the 
 rest of the two bands. The Viscontis were the property 
 
 * After this I took a little piece of paper, and on it endeavored to sketch 
 the superb view before us. All stood round me passing comments on the 
 Inglese that was supposed to be able to do every thing. (My being able 
 to tell them the nationality of their guns and pistols had surprised them.) 
 They did not quite like this new amusement, and in a day or two destroy- 
 ed my sketch and got hold of my pencil, to the disappointment of both 
 Visconti and myself. He was always making abstruse calculations of 
 francs, ducats, and Napoleons, and, being without a pencil, had always 
 borrowed mine. This sketch was talked about to the peasants, then at 
 Salerno, and then through the Italian journals to the English papers, 
 magnified, of course, and many of my friends were disappointed that I 
 have not a complete set of sketches illustrating my life among the brig- 
 ands.
 
 136 English Travelers and Italian Brigand 1 *. 
 
 of his band, while I belonged to Manzo's, unfortunately for 
 me ; for Pepino and his men had no interest in my expected 
 ransom, and all the time I was under his charge I was mis- 
 erably treated : unfair shares of food, blows, threats, and 
 constant bullying, were what I had to put up with. 
 
 We retraced our steps of Saturday evening and ascended 
 the steep hill. How I groaned mentally as I dragged my 
 legs, so stiff from the effects of the damp ground, up the as- 
 cent! When we reached the top we did not descend the 
 other side, but turned to the left and went along the narrow 
 ridge. We experienced the same difficulties as before on 
 account of the sharpness of the ridge causing our passing 
 along it to be so exceedingly dangerous. At one place an 
 enormous precipitous rock barred the way, its flat sides 
 overhanging on each side. After examining it all round, 
 we ftflmd a place at one corner where, by being pulled up 
 from above and being pushed up from below, we succeeded 
 one by one in ascending a few yards, and then, passing 
 round the corner, went some way along a narrow ledge, 
 and found at last a more practicable path. A little farther 
 on we found two baraque ; the boughs with which they 
 were made looked as if they had been built only two days 
 before, and the leaves were quite fresh, and not at all with- 
 ered. "Laforza!" was the sudden cry of all, and at once 
 all eyes were on the ground looking for the footmarks of 
 the soldiers, and they were immediately estimated at fifty 
 in number. 
 
 After walking for about an hour and a half, we came to 
 what was considered a proper place for concealing our- 
 selves ; the narrow ridge ceased suddenly, forming a preci- 
 pice of some hundreds of feet, making our lair quite secure 
 on the side facing the north, while on the west there was 
 another precipice. On the south of the ridge and eastward
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 28. 137 
 
 there was a narrow ascent covered with brushwood and 
 large trees; there were two enormous beech-trees in the 
 two northern corners, and another in the southwestern. 
 We were told to lie down while Pavone and Justi cut down 
 small trees and branches, which were placed between these 
 trees in order to make the place more secure. In the cen- 
 tre there was a large stone, weighing about a ton ; this was 
 attacked next, but- it was more than they could manage, as 
 it was three parts sunk in the ground; but Sentonio and 
 Pavone persevered, and by undermining it, and cutting a 
 huge branch to use as a lever, it was moved out of the way 
 to one side, and the place made level. 
 
 These operations, took some time, and they were only just 
 completed, when a sudden grasping of guns, and a move- 
 ment of all in the direction from which we had come, made 
 the hearts of us prisoners jump into our throats. I had not 
 yet got accustomed, as I did very soon, to these sudden 
 alarms. The brigands' senses of hearing and seeing were 
 extraordinarily acute ; their very lives depended on them ; 
 they could always detect the approach of any one many 
 hundred yards off ; I soon acquired the same habit, and oft- 
 en told them of the approach of those who were fetching 
 food and water. On this occasion the blue clothing of the 
 comer soon told them that it was one of their companions, 
 and he rushed into the centre of the group, saying, in hur- 
 ried accents, that there had been a tradimento, and that two 
 companies of soldiers surrounded the place where we had 
 passed Saturday night and Sunday only a few minutes after 
 we had left it, and that we must immediately leave the 
 neighborhood. Many were the imprecations uttered against 
 the troops. I can not admit that we prisoners looked on 
 them as likely to be our deliverers the chances seemed 
 one hundred to one against our being rescued by them ; for
 
 138 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 the soldiers blaze away at any thing moving, and the pris- 
 oners always stood the same chance of being hit as the 
 brigands. Besides, Manzo had given strict orders to all his 
 followers to shoot us immediately there appeared the slight- 
 est chance of our escaping ; and the band were always the 
 most savage against me because I was an Englishman, and 
 they feared that I would give information, when native pris- 
 oners dared not, for fear of the vengeance of the band.* 
 Fortunately Ferdinando brought with him a maccatore full 
 of bread, which served for our breakfast ; but no time was 
 allowed us to eat it now, as all the robe were collected, and 
 off we went again toward the east, walking for three or 
 four hours down hill before we pulled up. The scenery was 
 most monotonous, the whole way being through one in- 
 terminable forest of beech-trees. The path was exceedingly 
 steep, and we often had to cling on by the branches of one 
 tree, not leaving hold till we could stop our impetus against 
 the stem of another. 
 
 About the middle of the day a furious thunder-storm 
 came on as usual, and we all took refuge under trees from 
 the terrific shower of rain that fell. Don Francesco and I 
 sat crouched up under the capote that had been given to 
 me. We were under a large beech, but very soon the rain 
 came pouring down from the branches on us, but we could 
 not move because every where the ground was running 
 with water. Below us was a plain with two villages in 
 sight. I told Visconti that I thought it was his country, 
 but he did not seem to know it, and laughed at me for at- 
 tempting to know a place I had never seen. I told him 
 
 * How many are now living in terror in consequence of having given 
 evidence against atrocious villains, whose lives have been spared some 
 day, perhaps, to commit new atrocities ! Read the history of the brothers 
 La Gala, in Mr. Hilton's "Brigandage in Southern Italy," vol. ii.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 28. 139 
 
 that Giftbni was a little more to our left, shut out from our 
 sight by a mountain. (I was quite right, as it turned out ; 
 and he recalled the circumstance to my mind when I was 
 at Giffoni after my release, and he pointed out to me the 
 mountain where we had been on that day.) 
 
 Well do I remember that day and place, for a terrible 
 judgment fell on Luigi, one of Cerino's band. I was all the 
 more impressed with it on account of an occurrence that 
 took place two days before. Seeing a little cross and beads 
 in the hands of the man, and being always on the look-out 
 for little reminiscences, I asked him for it ; but his reply was, 
 " What ! give you my life ?" He explained to me that, if 
 he lost or parted with it, he would soon lose his life. Luigi 
 was sitting on a mass of rock a few yards from me, with 
 Pepino, Doniella, and two or three others close to him. Be- 
 tween them and me, on the right-hand side, there was a lit- 
 tle gap, and below the mountain was rather steep. On our 
 left it was level for a short distance, and then rose to a 
 great height. All at once the cry of"JLa Forza" was raised, 
 and off they all ran, those sitting by us driving us on. Most 
 of them ran up hill. I darted through the gap on my right; 
 for I thought that, if the troops came on, when I got below 
 I could double back toward them ; but that wretch Andrea, 
 the executioner, came after me, and told me to stop. It 
 was a false alarm, and Visconti and I returned back to the 
 place we had kept dry under the beech, and sat down in 
 our old position, but in two or three minutes some one said, 
 " Where is Luigi ?" He was not to be seen, but one of 
 them found his capote where he had been sitting. Three 
 paces from it was a precipice of about 2000 feet, and the 
 poor fellow had in his fright gone clean over it, not having 
 noticed the danger when he sat down. A cry of horror 
 was raised at the discovery, and tears rose in the eyes of all
 
 140 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 his companions. I could not but feel much affected at his 
 awful death, though at the same time I confess I counted 
 four on my fingers, that being the number now disposed of 
 since I had been taken by the band, and I thought to my- 
 self that the more that were killed the better chance I 
 should have of escaping. Luigi feared the hand of man, 
 but little thought that, by his own act, he was rushing, with 
 all the sins of four years' brigandage on his head, into the 
 presence of his Maker ! 
 
 The women were most affected, shedding tears ; and 
 "povero Luigir'' was the exclamation of all. He was a 
 tall, thin man, about forty years of age, very reserved, and 
 with far more forethought than most Italians. He was very 
 careful and saving ; his clothing was old and full of repairs. 
 He always mended a rent immediately. He carried on his 
 back a wallet of sheepskin, in which were stowed away 
 many useful articles, such as scissors, an awl for mending 
 boots, etc., etc. His trowsers fitted close to the leg, and he 
 wore large, thick woolen gaiters. 
 
 After a few minutes' lamentation they went down the 
 mountain in order to find his body, for there was but little 
 doubt as to his fate. After about three quarters of an 
 hour's descent we were halted, while the band went a little 
 way up the ravine on our left to search for him. They soon 
 found him lying on the snow with which the ravine was 
 filled. He was quite dead, with his back broken and his 
 head smashed in. While the search for the body was going 
 on we had been halted in the midst of some tall broom, un- 
 der the charge of Pavone, and after a few minutes we went 
 on along the narrow footpath. I was in front, and, instead 
 of turning to the left, went straight on, Visconti, Tomasino, 
 and Pavone following me. When the rest of the band, who 
 had returned from their sad task, perceived us, they gave a
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 28. 141 
 
 signal cry to tell us where they were about 300 yards on 
 our left, on the other side of a little stream. 
 
 I now thought of attempting to escape by running along 
 the path ; but it was at least two miles to the village I had 
 seen in the morning, and it was getting dark, and I should 
 have had to cross two small mountains, and the odds were 
 too heavy against me ; so that when Pavone found out he 
 had mistaken the path, he called out to me, and I turned 
 back with the rest. He was in an awful rage, danced in the 
 air with passion, and cocked his gun ready for use, had any 
 one of us attempted to escape. Had the path been well de- 
 fined and level, and the time earlier in the day, I think I 
 should have attempted it, for I was at least fifty yards ahead, 
 and before he could have fired at me I should have been a 
 hundred yards off; and I knew that he had only a musket, 
 and before he could have loaded again I should have been 
 at a safe distance ; but the two miles to the town and the 
 difficulties of the way determined me to wait for a more 
 favorable opportunity. I was always on the look-out to es- 
 cape, and constantly bore in mind which direction would 
 take me to the town ; but Pavone and Scope never let me 
 go out of their sight, and I could never move my position, 
 either day or night, without the exclamation of " Che fate?" 
 or ''Dove andate ?" I could not even sit up without being 
 told to lie down directly. (I never had but one chance, 
 which I will relate hereafter.) When we joined the rest 
 of the band, I found them all plunged in grief; they had 
 stripped poor Luigi of all that might prove useful, but his 
 clothes, being old and ragged, were left upon him. 
 
 Poor fellow ! He was left on the snow just as he lay 
 when they found him, and in a few days the vultures that 
 abound in this district would no doubt leave nothing but 
 his bones to bleach in the mountain air, probably never
 
 142 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 again to be seen by human eye. I asked for some little 
 memento of him, and they gave me the little bag full of 
 pictures of saints, which Italians of the lower class always 
 carry on their persons. In it were also three little leaves 
 and some pieces of the gum used for incense in the churches. 
 
 After a short time, on we went ; it was now dark, and we 
 left the path, and directed our course through a thick wood 
 along the bottom of the mountain. The trees were very 
 wet, and as we pushed the branches on one side in order to 
 pass, we were soaked through by the falling drops; our 
 feet, too, and trowsers, were thoroughly drenched, and I 
 groaned inwardly at the prospect of our night's rest, or 
 rather the want of it. 
 
 After two hours' more walking, when we were nearly 
 dead beat, a low whisper of "/woco" was raised by those 
 ahead, and we were told to walk "cete a cete" that is, 
 as silently as possible ; and in five minutes we were halted, 
 while two went on to see the cause of the fire in the wood, 
 as the soldiers were known to be all round, and it was feared 
 that this might be one of their encampments. It proved, 
 however, to be only the fire of some wood-cutters, so we 
 were moved on at a signal from the advanced guard, and in 
 three minutes we were warming ourselves round the wel- 
 come blaze. Two peasants were there when we came up, 
 but in a few minutes, two more, who had retired on our ap- 
 proach, advanced from the darkness round. These were 
 old friends, if one could judge from the kisses and warm 
 embraces with which they were greeted by several of the 
 band. To our great delight, on one side of the fire a tall 
 rock overhung a little, and had thus kept the ground under 
 it quite dry ; this was strewed with dry moss, and Visconti 
 and I sat down on it, and, to our joy, were allowed to re- 
 main there. I was dreadfully hungry, not having had any
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 28. 143 
 
 thing to eat since our meagre breakfast of literally only a 
 mouthful of black bread. My eye fell on a maccatore hung 
 on a corner of the rock, in which was a little Indian-corn 
 bread. I asked one of the wood-cutters if he would give it 
 me ; but, with curses from the band, I was told not to touch 
 it. It was handed over to one of them, and two more loaves 
 being produced, the whole was divided in equal shares, and 
 I ate my portion with gratitude, thanking God for the unex- 
 pected fire and shelter that we had fallen in with. 
 
 I took off my boots and socks, and dried'them as well as 
 I could, but before they were half dry I was made to put 
 them on for fear of our being surprised, and my not being 
 able to run away barefooted. This fear caused them always 
 to forbid my removing any of my clothing for washing pur- 
 poses. I stood and dried my capote and garments as long 
 as I was allowed to do so, turning round and round, as 
 though roasting on a jack. It was near midnight before 
 we laid down, curled up on the moss that was to have 
 served as the wood-cutters' couch. They sat round the fire, 
 conversing with the band, who thus heard all the news of 
 the district, and were told of all the movements of the 
 troops. Visconti and I slept soundly, but were woke up as 
 usual at an hour before daybreak. 
 
 May 30. We left the wood-cutters, who were presented 
 with a Napoleon as a complimento, and we ascended higher 
 up the mountain. An hour's walk brought us to a level 
 space, concealed by trees all round. On one side a gully, 
 where the winter rains ran down, formed a straight path 
 down the mountain side. We had to lie down on the wet 
 grass, but soon forgot these little cares in more sleep. 
 When we awoke again at about seven or eight o'clock, 
 we asked for bread, but were told that we should have 
 none all day, and that there would be no water.
 
 144 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 In the middle of the day there was one of the usual 
 alarms, which proved to be caused by four or five more of 
 the band who had come to join us. With them was one of 
 the women Concetta. Poor girl ! she had been shot right 
 through the upper part of the arm through the accidental 
 discharge of one of the guns. The ball had broken the bone 
 in two, and the arm was suspended and wrapped up in nu- 
 merous pocket-handkerchiefs. She did not utter a groan or 
 murmur. Much concern for her was exhibited by all, and 
 all strove to d"o what little they could for her. Xatural 
 ammoniated water was used to bathe and dress it with, and 
 a shirt was torn up and unraveled to furnish lint. Cicco 
 acted as surgeon, and no one could have been more tender 
 in his treatment of her. No food was given to us all day, 
 but, to my joy, I found in my pocket a morsel of bread that 
 I had forgotten. I shared it with Don Francesco, and then 
 turned out my pockets, and, picking out the dirt, ate the 
 crumbs which I found there. We heard from the newly- 
 arrived brigands to-day that the troops were all round us. 
 Great caution was observed. In the evening two or three 
 ascended the mountain to search for snow, and in about an 
 hour and a half returned with a great mass carried on a 
 stick. We ate a quantity of this to assuage our thirst, not 
 having had any water for twenty-four hours. I found this 
 want of drink very trying at first, but soon had to get ac- 
 customed to it, and to fare still worse. 
 
 The news was also spread round to-day that the govern- 
 ment was going to pay for me, and that, as this was so, they 
 were going to demand a much larger ransom. This dis- 
 turbed me dreadfully, and kept me awake all night. I talk- 
 ed much to Visconti on the subject. He told me it was very 
 bad news for me, and might be the cause of my being de- 
 tained a long time. Tomasino, like a boy as he was, took
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 28. 145 
 
 the greatest pleasure in worrying me, declaring to me that 
 the brigands had told him again that if the government paid 
 they would require 1,000,000 ducats; and that, even if I paid 
 this, I should have plenty left, because of the great riches 
 which they all declared I possessed. He also greatly an- 
 noyed his cousin, who declared that he was a vera musca, 
 alias musquito. He certainly was most tiresome, and I am 
 afraid that at times I quite lost my patience with him, and 
 frequently kept my stick by my side as a reminder for him 
 not to come too near me. To add to our misery, in the 
 evening we had more rain. It seemed of little use drying 
 our clothes, or spreading them on a branch in the sun, for 
 they were no sooner dry than wet again, and when once 
 soaked, the capote took two or three days to get moderately 
 dry perfectly so it never was at this period. To-night I 
 discovered that the muslin turban that I used to wear on 
 my straw-hat, when rolled up and doubled, made a capital 
 comforter to wear round my neck at night. I never omit- 
 ted to use this afterward until the weather got too warm, 
 when it made a secure shelter for those disgusting little 
 animals from which I suffered so much a little later. 
 
 Had all the sufferings I had to endure eventually come 
 upon me daring the first days, I do not know how I should 
 have borne them ; but they seemed to come on gradually, 
 and what I thought dreadful at first I got to think little of 
 afterward. 
 
 May 31. It rained nearly all night, and there was a cold, 
 cutting wind, so we accordingly woke up in the morning, 
 if possible, colder and stiffer than usual, and we had to 
 straighten our knees entirely by rubbing them, as no fire 
 could be made on account of the troops around us. We 
 were not allowed to move or speak all the first part of the 
 'lay, fifty soldiers having passed along the valley a little 
 
 G
 
 146 English Travelers and Italian Brigand's. 
 
 after the break of day, and there were two posts not far 
 from us. The wood - cutters, who had been busy felling 
 trees all yesterday, and the sound of whose strokes had en- 
 livened the solitude, were quite silent to-day. I presume 
 they had left the neighborhood, evidently fearing being im- 
 plicated with the doings of the band, should the troops dis- 
 cover where we were; for the peasants were thrown into 
 prison on the slightest suspicion of providing the baud with 
 food ; and very properly so too, for without the aid of the 
 peasantry it would be impossible for brigandage to exist. 
 As it is, the peasants can not resist the high price paid for 
 every thing by the brigands, and when they meet, like all 
 the Italians of this class, they can not refrain from gossiping 
 about every thing that goes on in the district, particularly 
 the movements of the troops, and the constant complimeiitos 
 paid to them make them anxious to impart every thing that 
 is of importance to these outlaws. Suddenly, about the 
 middle of the day, soldiers were seen on the top of the 
 mountain opposite to us, through the telescopes which were 
 in constant use. This created great excitement, and we 
 were made to lie flat on the ground, and not allowed to 
 move, while one or two of the men ascended the highest 
 trees near, and, with the glasses, reported every movement. 
 The soldiers, about fifty in number, lay down on the ground 
 and rested for half an hour, and then disappeared over the 
 top of the mountain ; we saw nothing more of them ; but 
 the ban'd was uneasy all day, some one constantly ascend- 
 ing the trees in order to keep a good look-out. They as- 
 tonished me with the ease and rapidity with which they 
 climbed, taking hold of a branch and swinging themselves 
 up in an instant. As soon as it was considered safe we 
 went farther up the mountain, to my great annoyance ; for, 
 instead of the places that we had kept dry, we had to lie
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 28. 147 
 
 down just where we were told, for we were never allowed 
 to use our own discretion, but were frequently made to set- 
 tle down in a nest of nettles, thorns, or thistles. When we 
 got here a little bread was produced, but so little that it 
 only served to make us more hungry than before. With 
 the bread came the news that Victor Emmanuel was going 
 to pay my ransom himself. This was bad news for me, for, 
 as long as there was a chance of its being true, they would 
 keep asking the 50,000 ducats. 
 
 I amused myself this afternoon in learning all I could 
 about brigandage in the province of Salerno by asking all 
 at various times. I concluded that there were in all about 
 seventy brigands, under four captains, and this turned out 
 to be very near the mark Giardullo and his band consist- 
 ing of about thirty, and the two bands with which I was 
 connected being in number forty-two. Of these, seven were 
 runaway soldiers, viz., Manzo, Ferdinando, Guange, Amen- 
 dolo,* Carini, and two others ; Giuseppe, from what I could 
 hear, came from Naples. Cicco had once some little amount 
 of money, on which he lived before being a brigand ; An- 
 drea, the executioner, had, by his own account, been a mas- 
 ter shoemaker ; the others all had been agricultural laborers 
 or shepherds excepting my friend Lorenzo Guerino, who had 
 been a sawyer and carpenter. Nearly all had committed 
 homicide. Manzo, however, and Guange, by the account of 
 all, were free from this crime ; the former on one occasion 
 shot a follower for refusing to obey his orders, and they all 
 said he would do it again in a moment, if necessary ; but, 
 from my experience, a stick laid over their shoulders was 
 the punishment when they would not be silent when told. 
 Guange had not disliked his life as soldier, and said that the 
 allowance of food was good, but he had been absent one 
 * In the Appendix will be found an account of this worthy.
 
 148 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 day without leave, and, fearing the consequences, took to 
 the woods. 
 
 Three or four of the band had joined only a few days be- 
 fore ray capture; these had their carte di soggiorno with 
 them, and often looked at them and showed them to me. 
 They were still dressed in their peasant dresses, and it was 
 long ere they were able to obtain their brigand clothing; 
 but, before I left them, they all had gradually picked up the 
 proper uniform. This they obtained from the peasants 
 when getting food, and paid for out of their own share of 
 my ransom. 
 
 Malone Zara, a native of Acerno, who was one of these 
 recruits, was only eighteen years old, and used to take the 
 milk round to the houses in the town ; but one day a friend 
 tried to cheat him out of five ducats, equal to sixteen shil- 
 lings and eightpence : this so enraged him that a fatal blow 
 from his knife compelled him to become a brigand. He 
 was not in giro, as they call it, when I was taken, and thus 
 he had no share in the money, for those only who are pres- 
 ent at the capture divide the spoil. All share equally, the 
 captain having no more than the others, and a certain 
 amount being kept back for general expenses. 
 
 At about five o'clock the tinkling of bells below told 
 us that a flock of sheep was passing from one pasture to 
 another. Pepino, who was very impatient under a lack of 
 food, jumped up, and, with Generoso and Andrea, started 
 off to see what they could procure. In about an hour they 
 returned leading a fine fat sheep and a goat, which were 
 soon killed, and in less than an hour there was nothing left 
 but the head and bones. Excepting the paunch, every mor- 
 sel was eaten. When we had got meat, there was a diffi- 
 culty in cooking it, on account of our position. 
 
 With the troops in the neighborhood a fire was most
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, May 28. 149 
 
 dangerous, and many of the men declared it was madness 
 to think of lighting it. But we had had too little the last 
 three days to think of foregoing our promised repast, so 
 two of the old hands cut out an oblong hole in a sloping 
 place, and then another at right angles at the end of it ; the 
 fire was made with the greatest caution in this, and the pot 
 put over it ; two capotes were placed in front, so as to con- 
 ceal any gleam of light ; every piece of wood was dried be- 
 fore it was put on, and the fire very slowly fed, and by these 
 means all smoke was avoided ; they certainly did make the 
 most smokeless fires I ever saw. When the internal bonne- 
 bouche was pronounced ready, we were invited to dip with 
 them into the pot. I took out my pocket-fork and avoided 
 scalding my fingers ; theirs were like horn, and no heat ever 
 seemed to hurt them. This fork was much admired ; and 
 when I was told that I had eaten my share, which was al- 
 ways on these occasions about a quarter of what each of 
 them ate, one of them took it from me and used it himself, 
 but returned it when the course was finished. The meat 
 was all divided into shares, and, to Visconti's horror, he had 
 to eat it without bread. For drink we had to eat snow, all 
 the water being drunk by our captors, who refused to give 
 us any. 
 
 To-night the place where I was told to sleep was the next 
 but one to poor Concetta, whose arm was getting worse ev- 
 ery hour, and now began to emit a most nauseous odor. 
 The wind, unfortunately, blew toward me, and, as I was 
 only about four feet from her, my feelings can more easily 
 be imagined than described. The flesh round the wound 
 had turned quite yellow, and each time it was dressed a 
 quantity of thick matter was removed ; this, with the dirt} 7 
 lint, was merely thrown a yard or two oif, and there being 
 a plague of flies which immediately covered any animal mat-
 
 150 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 ter, this made me most nervous, lest they should bite me, 
 and thus communicate the poison to my system. How 
 they worried me, perpetually settling on me ! All the care 
 in the world would not keep them off; they always disap- 
 peared as it grew dark, but then the musquitoes came out, 
 and their demoniacal drumming nearly drove me distract- 
 ed ; but I soon found out that our simple food prevented 
 that inflammation and pain that their bites occasion in civ- 
 ilized life. Two or three hours after dark, Ferdinando, 
 with three others, returned with one live sheep and one 
 that they had already killed and skinned.
 
 Dim*y of Mr. Moens, June 1 to 7. 151 
 
 CHAPTER Yin. 
 
 DIAEY OF ME. MOEXS, JUNE 1 TO 7. 
 
 Wood-carving. The wounded Girl. A tantalizing View. Victims. 
 The Captives not introduced. A Thunderbolt. Eain, Kain. Three 
 under a Cloak. 111 Treatment from Cerino's Band. Their abject 
 fear of Death. A Blow from Cerino. Consolation. New Arrivals. 
 Screwing up. A Scrimmage with Generoso. The greedy Cerino. 
 An Installment of my Ransom arrives. The Proposal to the Brigands 
 to leave the Country in an English Ship. The Lesson of the " Aunis." 
 What became of the 10,000 francs. Gambling. Visconti is ap- 
 pointed my Agent. Pleasant Position of his Family. I am the only 
 Captive. Quarrels. The Argumenlum Baculinwn. I am invited to 
 Gamble. 
 
 June 1. WE spent " the glorious 1st of June" in the same 
 place. How long the day seemed, with nothing to do but 
 to brood over my griefs ! For want of any thing better to 
 do, I began whittling the stem of a wild jasmine with my 
 penknife, and amused myself in cutting out a little cross, 
 which I meant to send to my wife at the first opportunity. 
 Much interest was taken by the brigands in seeing me cut 
 what all Roman Catholics, however humble or degraded in 
 position, revere so much ; motto talento was the constant 
 remark when they saw me at work with the minute blade, 
 the temper of which astonished them so much. We had no 
 bread either to-day or the next day, but they gorged them- 
 selves with meat. I preserved as much as I could save in 
 my pocket, not knowing when we should get more ; two or 
 three sausages had been kept back from the last division for
 
 152 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 Concetta, whose arm was getting worse and worse. Poor 
 girl ! she did not utter a sound of complaint, but merely 
 clenched her teeth together and hissed through them when 
 they were dressing her wound and cutting off the dead 
 flesh with a pair of scissors. I translated a few verses of 
 the Psalms to her, and entreated her to think over her past 
 life and ask forgiveness. 
 
 She seemed to attend with great earnestness to what I 
 said, and when I had finished she entreated me to pray for 
 her, and was not satisfied till I had promised to do so. I 
 told her that, unless she could get medical aid, it was im- 
 possible to hope for any improvement, and that she must 
 prepare for the worst. 
 
 Early in the afternoon I was delighted at seeing all the 
 band rise up from the ground and sling their guns on their 
 shoulders. This was the certain sign of a move. We were 
 soon told to get up. I tied up my capote with a little piece 
 of string and a cotton handkerchief that Manzo had given 
 me, and with these managed to sling it on my back ; it was 
 rather heavy, and I had found great difficulty in carrying it 
 on my left arm, for I wanted both hands one to carry my 
 invaluable stick, and with the other I grasped the low 
 branches of the trees in ascending and descending the steep 
 places. 
 
 My heart quite bled when I saw the poor dying Concet- 
 ta walking along in the rear, supported between two men. 
 We were between two or three hours in reaching the top, 
 passing many frightful ravines some of them, which we 
 had to cross, full of snow ; this was not like the freshly-fall- 
 en snow, but, being constantly penetrated by the moisture 
 from the thawed surface, had crystallized into grains about 
 (he size of hempseed, and these were all frozen together, so 
 that some trouble and force were necessary in cutting out a
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 1 to 7. 153 
 
 lump to eat. At one of these places we stopped to rest for 
 some time, while Concetta, and those with her, were toiling 
 up the steep ascent to join us. When they came up the 
 poor girl could hardly stand, and threw herself down on the 
 ground, and asked me if I had any bread, for I always kept, 
 if possible, a tiny piece, and invariably ate a little mouthful 
 after our nauseous meat diet. I had a piece the size of a 
 walnut in my pocket, which I could not refuse her ; and it 
 was quite a pleasure to see the expression on her face as I 
 handed it to her, and I felt well rewarded for my self- 
 denial. 
 
 The usual precautions were taken at the top, and on all 
 being pronounced safe, we rested again for the stragglers 
 to come up. Here there was another false alarm ; they all 
 ran, but I never moved, hoping that, if the soldiers appeared, 
 I should have a chance of escape. I took out my little book 
 and began to read, to the great disgust of several of them, 
 who disliked nothing more than seeing me perfectly indif- 
 ferent when they all were showing fear. 
 
 From this elevated point I again saw the mountains with 
 their jagged peaks close to Salerno, the point stretching 
 out to Amalfi, and the blue Mediterranean. How I longed 
 to be on it, in one of those tiny fishing-boats, with lateen 
 sails, that were speeding their way to Salerno ! 
 
 As we walked along the top I was constantly asked Che 
 veclete? for the idea that I was enjoying the magnificent 
 view was the last thing that entered their heads. We soon 
 came up to a place where a dreadfully steep bank between 
 two high precipices led far away down the mountain, reach- 
 ing very nearly to the bottom. The greatest care had to 
 be taken, for if I had once slipped it would have been im- 
 possible to have stopped rolling down some thousands of 
 feet. There was a rank vegetation which concealed the 
 
 G 2
 
 154 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 loose stones, which were in great abundance, and this made 
 our descent very difficult. Often these would be set in mo- 
 tion, to the great danger of those below, who had to jump 
 quickly out of the way to avoid them. I think this, more 
 than any thing else, raised the ire and curses of the band, 
 for a stone, once set rolling, generally with a great noise 
 keeps rolling down to the bottom, giving notice to any one 
 below that somebody is above, which might be the means 
 of giving the troops warning of the proximity of the band. 
 As we descended we saw several fires, which marked the 
 spot where the shepherds were stationed for the night, and 
 where they make the cheese and racotta from the milk 
 yielded by the flocks of sheep grazing on these southern 
 slopes of the mountains. 
 
 We no sooner began to descend than we left behind us 
 the dense forests on the northern side. When we came to 
 the level of the first fire, two of the band went toward it, 
 and soon returned with one of the shepherds, who carried a 
 barrel of water, which shepherds always have with them. 
 This was a great Luxury, for I had only eaten snow for the 
 last few days. I got up and stepped forward to it, but was 
 instantly told in a brutal way to go back again ; for a cap- 
 tive is never allowed to see or speak to a peasant. They 
 do this (as I said before) on account of the peasant, who 
 fears being recognized and denounced afterward when the 
 ransom is paid. In a short time the barrel was passed to 
 me. I took it by each end, and drank, after their fashion, 
 out of the bung-hole in the centre. A little Indian-corn 
 bread was also divided between us, and Visconti and I en- 
 joyed the remains of our cold goat, which we had tied up 
 together in my pocket-handkerchief, having nothing else to 
 carry it in. 
 
 When we approached to the next fire the same precau-
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 1 to 7. 155 
 
 tionary measures were repeated ; but as it was in our route, 
 we waited till the usual signal (a lighted brand waved in 
 the air) was made by those who had been sent on in ad- 
 vance. The shepherds always tried to put out their fiVes 
 on the approach of the brigands. I suppose this was for 
 their own protection, lest any one should see that visitors 
 were with them. More bread was obtained, and a little 
 new cheese. The next fire was treated in the same way, 
 but we were never allowed to join the circle collected round 
 for the usual ten minutes' gossip, to hear the news. Imme- 
 diately after leaving the last fire we crossed a stream and 
 proceeded along a good path on the other side. Visconti 
 was disappointed in not seeing his shepherd, who he thought 
 was in this neighborhood. After about an hour we left this 
 path and made our way through the brushwood. We soon 
 came to a range of cliffs, on the face of which were many 
 caverns. At last we came to one with a dry stony bottom, 
 about fifteen feet high. We were told to lie down, and 
 with guards on each side of us we were allowed to sleep. 
 We were roused by the kicks of our guardians, and awoke 
 with severe pain in all our limbs from sleeping in the bitter 
 cold. There was not sufficient cover in front of the cave to 
 make it safe during the daytime. 
 
 June 2. It had rained in the night, and we had, therefore, 
 the satisfaction of getting wet in proceeding to a place under 
 the rocks, with plenty of brushwood before it, where we 
 were to stop all day. We had to ask several times before 
 we got a portion of the bread procured from the shepherds. 
 Pepino and his consort Doniella kept nearly all for them- 
 selves, and would hardly give us any. The rest of the band 
 had plenty in their pockets, which they had secured when 
 at the fires of the shepherds. This evening we went to a 
 large roomy cavern that had evidently been made use of by
 
 156 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 the flocks of sheep, for the ground was covered with abund- 
 ant signs of their recent presence. Visconti and I picked 
 out the cleanest and driest place we could find in one corner, 
 but we were made to get up and lie down in a very dirty 
 and wet place, with water dripping on us from above.- An- 
 drea, the executioner, and two women guarded us, while the 
 others went off foraging. I sat up for a minute, but our 
 wary guard made me lie down again, fearing a sudden rush 
 on him. On these occasions our guards always stood up at 
 a little distance, and never took their eyes off us. In the 
 night the band came back with some water, but nothing 
 else. We were in the same part for the next three days, 
 moving our sleeping-place each night. 
 
 One night we were asked if we liked milk, and were told 
 that we were to have some. It took us half an hour to walk 
 to the appointed place, where we found a great wooden 
 milk-pail, about two feet high, half full. Some was poured 
 out into a smaller pail, and some bread sopped in it. We 
 were then told to fall to. This was the first time that I had 
 used my wooden spoon, that I had spent so many hours in 
 cutting from the root of the beech-tree ; it served capitally 
 for eating the bread, but it could not compete with the 
 enormous deep spoons used in these districts for skimming 
 the racotta off the remains of the milk. One was lent to 
 me, but I preferred taking up the great pail and having a 
 good draught out of it. I never lost an opportunity of tell- 
 ing them that milk was very good for an Englishman, and I 
 always found that they gave me more than my share of it 
 whenever \ve were so lucky as to obtain any. Some racotta 
 was also broken up in some milk, and this made it taste just 
 like cream. The pails were left to be fetched away by the 
 shepherds. Well do I remember the spot, for the rising 
 ground on three sides brought to my mind some of the
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 1 to 7. 157 
 
 theatres cut out of the hill-sides in Greece. The bottom 
 was level, and then the ground sloped away to the river far 
 below. Our halting-place was covered with a low broom 
 in full blossom. The moon was shining brightly on all the 
 surrounding mountains ; not a breath of air was stirring, 
 and the only sound to be heard was that of the distant tor- 
 rent below. 
 
 June 6. The night was passed in the caves as before, and 
 before daybreak we went back toward the place where we 
 had found the milk, and spent the day on the hill-side. We 
 were forbidden to speak or move the whole day. The 
 bright sky of last night had left us, and all above us was 
 covered with the blackest clouds, when suddenly, about 
 midday, the storm broke in a thunderbolt, which passed 
 whizzingly close over our heads, apparently only a few feet 
 from us, and went right down and seemed to strike the 
 ground near the stream below us. I never in my life heard 
 any thing to equal the awful crackling and roaring sound of 
 its passage. We were all amazed, and one of the brigands 
 said " it seeks the water." They all crossed themselves, and 
 several hurried off to seek the shelter of the grottoes. I 
 wished to do the same, but was not allowed to move. I had 
 no sooner put on my capote than a perfect shower of water 
 fell on us. I took Visconti under the cloak with me ; when 
 Lorenzo, who had always treated me well, came close up and 
 made me give him part too. I was in the centre ; we put 
 our covering over our heads, drew up our knees to our noses, 
 and there we sat five mortal hours growling at every thing ! 
 Poor Visconti was in the most fearful state of despair, al- 
 though two men, who had joined us in the morning, had 
 brought the joyful news to him that the 10,000 ducats that 
 remained to complete his ransom had been paid. How I 
 envied him ! He did not seem to feel sure of his liberty, and
 
 158 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 told me that he should not feel safe till he arrived in his 
 own house. How miserable I felt no letters, no money ! 
 
 Three weeks had now elapsed since my capture, and dur- 
 ing the last week especially I had been badly treated. Pe- 
 pino's band, who were to have no share in my expected 
 ransom, looked on me as a nuisance, and grudged every 
 morsel of food they gave me. Except during the two days 
 when we had meat, I do not think I had, in all, more than 
 .enough for one day's consumption. They always made a 
 point of speaking to me in a most brutal manner, without an 
 atom of kindness, and they constantly threatened my life 
 with their guns, revolvers, and knives. One great game 
 was thrusting their knives quickly between my body and 
 arms. I never allowed myself to show the slightest fear, 
 and always told them that it was nothing to die it was 
 soon over, and that the next world was far better. 
 
 They all have the most abject fear of death, and I always 
 tried to impress them with the idea that Englishmen never 
 fear to die ; and that, if they wished it, they were perfectly 
 welcome to take my life, as it would save me and my friends 
 so much trouble. I felt sure that in a short time they would 
 discontinue trying to frighten me when they found out that 
 I only laughed at their attempts, and ridiculed them for 
 their fear of death. 
 
 But I am forgetting the storm of rain. The cloak, though 
 a good cover for two during an ordinary shower, was not 
 of much use for three with the flood that was pouring down. 
 The water collected when the cloak was stretched between 
 our heads, and then dripped, or rather ran, through in 
 streams, each one pulling it more over himself, and accord- 
 ingly drenching his neighbor. When I attempted a change, 
 I always said "_E" ' melior cosi," but the reply came "E me- 
 lior per voi, *ma peggior per me" I, being in the centre,
 
 Diary of Mr. Jfoens, June 1 to 7. 159 
 
 came off best, but the best was bad enough. The water also 
 collected in pools under us, and at last ran in a perfect stream. 
 At five o'clock we were soaked through, and so cramped 
 from our position that we could not move. I looked for- 
 ward to a fearful night, and was as miserable as I could 
 possibly be, and very hungry, for we had had nothing to eat 
 or drink all day. 
 
 When the word came to us to get ready to start off to 
 join the rest of the band, I asked how many hours' walking, 
 and eight fingers held up told me what I had to expect. 
 Before we started I asked Pepino whether any money or 
 letters had come for me. I was standing on the edge of a 
 mound, and was unprepared for the blow which I received 
 for an answer. I lost my balance and fell down, hurting my- 
 self badly on the inside of my leg from striking it against a 
 large stone. What a rage I felt in ! I could have knocked 
 him over on the spot with pleasure, but was obliged to choke 
 it down as best I could. I asked him what harm I had done, 
 and was told to be quiet and not to speak a word. They 
 were very savage that no money had come for me at the 
 same time that it had come for the Viscoptis ; and Andrea 
 reproached me with having caused the death of four of the 
 band who had died for love of me! Justi came up to me 
 and said "Povero Cristiano" and told me that Pepino was 
 a brute, and that I was not to care for what he said or did. 
 
 We now began to descend toward the river, passing along 
 and over the terraces of earth in which the Italians always 
 cultivate the mountain sides ; the ground was sopping from 
 the heavy rain, and therefore very slippery. I more than 
 once fell, on one occasion making a bad wound on my shin, 
 the scar of which I still retain. It was very difficult to pass 
 the torrent, which was three times the size it was when we 
 had crossed a few days before.
 
 1 60 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 They told me to drink if I required it, for we should not 
 pass more water. I used the leather cup which Mr. Aynsley 
 had given me in parting, and which I always lent to Visconti. 
 The favorite way with the brigands was to lie down at full 
 length and lap up the water like dogs. Some of them would 
 pick the leaves of a plant that always seemed to grow near 
 water, and, doubling them up in their left hands, formed ex- 
 tempore drinking-cups. We soon found the mule-track or 
 scorza as they call it, and, turning toward the north, walked 
 along in Indian file at the rate of about three and a half 
 miles an hour. After half an hour we were halted while 
 some of the band went to get some milk, and we waited for 
 an hour before they returned empty-handed. During this 
 hour I got permission to walked up and down a little, for it 
 was bitterly cold, and I was wet through and afraid to sit 
 down. While doing this I heard some signals in a low voice 
 from the mountain opposite, and reported them. They were 
 at once answered, and down came six or eight men, who had 
 been sent by Manzo to look for us. They were all wet 
 through and half starved, not having been able to get any 
 bread. They were desperate when they found that we had 
 none to give them, and all drew their belts and bands round 
 their waists an inch tighter. They said that they had taken 
 us for bersaglieri from my walking up and down like a sentry. 
 Soon it began to rain so hard that even these ruffians 
 grumbled, and, turning up a little path to the left, went to a 
 large dry cave. I fortunately found a place that must have 
 served as a bed to some one ; it was made of the dry leaves 
 that wrap round the spikes of Indian corn, and it was so soft, 
 after the hard ground I had been used to, that I had no soon- 
 er lain down than I dropped off into a sound sleep, though 
 my clothes were wet through. It seemed hardly a minute 
 before I was kicked up and told to take my place in the line.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 1 to 7. 161 
 
 It had left off raining, but it was very dark, and we had to 
 feel our way up the mountain side. With the intervals of 
 two or three short rests, we kept on walking for four or five 
 hours up the pass, till at last, the great caution which was 
 used, and the freshness of the wind, told me that we were 
 close to the top. After waiting a short time, while scouts 
 were sent out, they began to break out swearing at the rest 
 of the band not being where they expected to find them, 
 and, being very tired, they were more brutal than usual. 
 We were always made to lie down immediately a halt was 
 called, for fear we might give them the slip. 
 
 The wolf cry was now made, but there was no response. 
 Again and again was the cry of tcow-wow, woio-wow^ utter- 
 ed in their peculiar way, but it was useless ; when one pro- 
 posed that they should go farther on to the left, where the 
 mountain rose higher, and, after a quarter of an hour's more 
 walking, the signal-calls were again made, and this time with 
 more success ; for in the distance a faint answer was heard, 
 and we went on toward the place where the bark came 
 from. The ascent was exceedingly steep, and Generoso, 
 who was behind me, kept hitting and poking me with the 
 barrel of his gun because I did not ascend as quickly as he 
 wished, though I was close behind the man before me. At 
 last I turned round in a pretended rage, and with my stick 
 in both hands raised it over his head. He shrank back and 
 brought his gun up to his shoulder with an oath. Two or 
 three ran up. I caught hold of him, but at the same time they 
 abused me, and seemed taken quite aback at the idea of a 
 ricattato threatening one of themselves. I told them that I 
 walked as well as they did, and I would not be bullied, so it 
 was no use attempting it that they might kill me if they 
 wished, and the sooner the better. 
 
 I found this answer capitally, and I was never touched
 
 162 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 again while on the march, and it was from this moment 
 that they began to respect me a little for my apparent dis- 
 regard of death ; and when we arrived at the camp-fire it 
 was immediately narrated how I had threatened to kill a 
 companion this being the term they always use when 
 speaking of one another. How joyful I felt when I saw 
 the cheerful gleam of the enormous wood fire! Manzo and 
 the rest of the band were round it, making in all forty- 
 three in number. When we entered the circle they all 
 seemed very glad to see me, for they had had no news of 
 me since the Sunday when the soldiers were disappointed in 
 surrounding us, and they had feared that some harm might 
 have befallen our division of the band. They gave me a 
 large piece of bread and a lump of wet raw bacon, and I 
 went to the fire, and, pushing in through those round it, 
 began to toast the bacon. 
 
 Pepino, who, being very tired, had lagged behind, now 
 came up, but too late for any of the bread, which had all 
 been given away. He saw me with my nice large piece, 
 and suddenly snatched it out of my hands. I immediately 
 complained to Manzo, and told him that his lieutenant was 
 no better than a petty thief to rob me of a piece of bread, 
 and I began to rave against all of them ; for we had had 
 no food for twenty-four hours, and after our long walk I 
 was very hungry, and had only just congratulated myself 
 on the piece of bread that had been given me very differ- 
 ent in size to any thing I had been used to under the charge 
 of Pepino Ceriuo ; but, to my joy, one of the band took 
 compassion on me and gave me his own piece, which I ac- 
 cepted with thanks. In a short time all but the sentinels 
 threw themselves down on the wet ground and were fast 
 asleep ; but I kept near the glowing embers of the fire, and 
 dried myself as much as I could, and sat up on a little piece
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 1 to 7. 163 
 
 of stone, for I was still damp, and my capote was wringing 
 wet, and there was a bitterly cold wind blowing, and I 
 thought it was better to foi'ego a little sleep than catch a 
 cold, which means a fever in these woods.* 
 
 June 7. In two hours I saw the eastern sky light up ; 
 and gradually it grew quite light; we were now removed 
 two or three hundred yards off to a small open part, sur- 
 rounded by very large beech-trees. There was a large rock 
 covered on one side with moss, standing up in the centre, 
 and I sat down under this to be out of the wind, and bask- 
 ed in the sun, which was now rising higher and higher. 
 
 Presently Yisconti came to me and told me that a guide 
 had come with letters and money for me : one from Mr. 
 Aynsley and one from the consul, but none from my dear 
 wife. How anxious I was for her ! In neither letter was 
 there a line about her health, and her name was only once 
 mentioned. N~o message to me and nothing to console me ; 
 the letter from Mr. Aynsley was in English, but merely de- 
 tails of what had been done. The letter from the consul 
 was in Italian, and meant for the band to read ; and its 
 tone gave them confidence in him, and they always express- 
 ed a high opinion of their trust in his word and actions. 
 
 They asked me if my companion, whom they had let go, 
 was to be trusted, and if he would be faithful to me. I 
 told them that he was an Englishman, and all Englishmen 
 could trust in each other ; and that I felt sure that he was 
 doing and would do all possible for me, for I was hostage 
 for him, and suffering for him as well as for myself. Man- 
 zo now came up and told me that 500 marengi had arrived 
 for me, and he wanted to know what my friends meant by 
 sending such a sum, and said that, if they did not send a 
 
 * I afterward found that the mountain on which we now were was 
 called Serra Del Castagno.
 
 164 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 large sum at once, he would send them my head. He 
 in a great rage, and I told him he had better do so at once, 
 as it would save trouble, for it was impossible for my wife 
 to get much money in Italy, as we were foreigners. He 
 gave me a letter from the consul to him, entreating both 
 him and the band to leave the country in an English ship 
 of war. This, however, they were not inclined to do, for 
 they all feared that they would be thrown into the sea im- 
 mediately they were on board ; and they mentioned the 
 case of the four brigands (meaning Papa, d'Avanzo, and the 
 brothers La Gala) who, as they said, tried to leave Italy in 
 a French* ship, after security had been promised them, and 
 had then been betrayed. They also said that the soldiers 
 would shoot them on their way to the sea. It appeared that 
 the consul's letter, which had been dictated by the prefect 
 of Salerno, and which informed the brigands of the consent 
 of the government having been given to the plan, was de- 
 livered to Manzo's brother, but he, although bearing a pass 
 from General Balegno, and carrying letters sealed with II. 
 B. M.'s consular seal, was arrested by a subordinate officer 
 in command of a detachment, and nothing was heard of 
 him for nearly a week. When the matter came to Mr. 
 Bonham's ears, he immediately procured the messenger's 
 release, and another letter was forwarded to the band con- 
 taining the same proposal. It was now, however, too late, 
 ns the brigands had heard how the soldiers had respected 
 the first messenger. 
 
 I suggested that three or four should go first to see if it 
 were safe, but I was not able to do any thing with them. 
 
 * For a full account of the escape of these villains from the fate they 
 so well deserved, see Count Maffei's book, and also Mr. Hilton's, vol. ii. 
 The case of the passengers of the " Annis" is notorious all over Italy as 
 a signal failure of justice.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 1 to 7. 1G5 
 
 The man who had brought up my money and letters now 
 appeared, and Viscouti was very excited, for he thought 
 that this would be the guide to take him home to Giffoni, 
 as the news of all his money having been paid proved to be 
 correct, and he was told that both he and his little cousin 
 Tomasino were to be set at liberty during the day. They 
 were in the highest state of glee at the hopes of seeing their 
 friends again. Don Francesco told me all about his wife 
 and two little children. He had not had a line from her all 
 the time he had been in the mountains, but had only heard 
 of her through his father's letters. 
 
 HOAV wretched all this made me feel ! I thought of all 
 those dear to me, and wondered when I should see them 
 again, the horrible fear being over me of the brigands keep- 
 ing me while they tried to extort a large sum from the 
 Italian government ; for they all told me that, if the country 
 paid for me, they would require a far larger sum than 50,000 
 ducats. 
 
 I now saw the captain sit down and spread out a capote, 
 and on this he counted out the 10,000 francs sent up for 
 me. The money was all in half Napoleons, and was sent in 
 this form because my friends thought that it would go far- 
 ther than if sent in whole Napoleons. Fifteen Napoleons 
 were then handed to each of the thirty men that had aided 
 in the capture, and the balance of fifty Napoleons were kept 
 back by Manzo for general expenses. 
 
 No sooner was the money divided than little groups were 
 formed for the purpose of gambling, a similar operation 
 having just taken place with the'10,000 ducats (equal to 
 1700) paid by Visconti. The captain very soon lost his 
 money, and two or three hundred Napoleons more ; so he 
 left off playing, and in a sulky humor came up to me, and 
 made me write a number of letters. Visconti was told to
 
 166 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 help me, and I was told to write them all in Italian, and not 
 to put one word in English. I wrote one to the consul, 
 one to Mr. Aynsley, and one to my wife, entreating her to 
 write and tell me how she was. I was also made to write 
 one to the prefect of Salerno, requesting him to withdraw 
 the forces, and not to take any steps that would injure the 
 band, for that any injury to them would be retaliated on 
 me, and that it was the prefect's fault I was taken, for he 
 had left the road unguarded on the afternoon of the 15th 
 of May, and that he would have to answer for it. When 
 the letters were finished, Manzo read them carefully over, 
 and made me add the postscripts, one of which was to the 
 effect that the 10,000 francs just sent were not enough to 
 keep me in bread. 
 
 The man who had brought up my money and letters (and 
 who was not one of Visconti's servants) had also brought 
 a quantity of jewellery for Pepino's band, consisting of 
 watches, gold chains, and rings ; these were all brought for 
 my inspection, and I was asked to value them, which I did 
 to the satisfaction of the brigands. One chain I told them 
 was too light, and was not good gold : this was given back 
 to the guide, who was told that, if he tried to cheat them, 
 they would kill him. He declared that it was good gold, 
 but they would have nothing to do with it. 
 
 Visconti and I now had a long talk together. He told 
 me that he would do all he could for me ; that Manzo had 
 ordered him to receive my letters and send them to and fro, 
 and that he was to find guides in order to transmit my 
 money to the band ; and that, if his father did not do so in 
 a satisfactory manner, his family would be all killed, his 
 house burned down, all the olive and chestnut trees belong- 
 ing to the family destroyed, and the sheep and cattle slaugh- 
 tered.* He entreated me to keep up my spirits, but not to 
 * See Appendix B.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 1 to 7. 167 
 
 expect to get away without paying a large sum of money, 
 for they had good information that I was very rich, and 
 could pay the amount demanded easily. I requested him 
 to go as soon as he could to Naples, in order to see my 
 wife, and tell her that I was quite well, and that it was nec- 
 essary to send money, and to advise my friends what was 
 best to be done under the circumstances. I also gave him 
 the little cross I had cut to take to hei', and a list of warm 
 clothing and other little things that I required. He would 
 not take any thing written in English, or even a private 
 note, because he said the captain would kill him if he found 
 it out. 
 
 All at once he gave a little scream of joy at the sight of 
 his old family servant, Fortunato Tedesco, who had come 
 up to act as guide to take him to Giffoni. The old shepherd 
 looked delighted to see his masters, kissed them both, and 
 took off his hat to me. He brought up some food for them, 
 and some cherries, but this was all taken at once by the 
 band and divided into equal shares. How I enjoyed the 
 cherries ! I had had no vegetable food for so long that na- 
 ture seemed to rejoice at such a change of diet. 
 
 Three or four men now appeared, each with a sack of 
 bread on his shoulders, and a quantity of cheese. This was 
 hailed with joy, and a present of half a Napoleon given to 
 each man. It was about five o'clock when Visconti was 
 told to get ready to go. He kissed me in the Italian fash- 
 ion, and then kissed the band all round ; two of them gave 
 Tomasino little rings as keepsakes, for he was a great favor- 
 ite with all of them, and Manzo gave them a Napoleon be- 
 tween them; and taking Don Francesco on one side, cau- 
 tioned him about revealing any thing concerning the band ; 
 for, if he did so, they would come and kill him. Tomasiuo 
 was told to say that the band was only twelve in number,
 
 168 English Travelers and Italian J^rigands. 
 
 and not to talk about them much. Fortunate gave Yisconti 
 his shepherd's crook as a walking-stick, and in a few min- 
 utes they were out of sight. 
 
 I then gave myself up to grief; I felt so desolate and 
 miserable at the sight of their going away free, and leaving 
 me behind alone, that I could not control myself; I threw 
 myself on the ground in despair. Justi and Lorenzo came 
 up to me and tried to console me, telling me to cheer up, 
 for when my money was paid I should be free too. I 
 thought it better to put a good face on it, and so got up and 
 walked about two hundred yards to where the sentinels 
 were placed. I found we were on a platform about ten 
 yards wide and two hundred yards long. On three sides 
 the ground sloped down steeply, so that they could run 
 down hill on three sides, while the soldiers would have to 
 ascend the other side ; they could run into the dense for- 
 est, and soon would have been lost to sight. This was the 
 favorite form of lair with the brigands, and they gener- 
 ally halted when they found a spot like this. From the end 
 where the sentinels were, there was a splendid view right 
 over the plain of Salerno. 
 
 It was beautifully clear, and I could see far out to sea. I 
 was only allowed to be here two or three minutes, and I 
 was told to go back to where I had been all the morning. 
 I tried to persuade them to let me remain, but with no avail. 
 As I went back, I passed where all the women were sitting : 
 they were hard at work hemming silk and cotton pocket- 
 handkerchiefs ; they had different colored silks to hem, with 
 scissors, thimbles, and all that was requisite. I noticed that 
 their needles were much shorter than those of English make. 
 The gambling was still going on, and many were the furious 
 quarrels that this gave rise to ; the captain had to interfere 
 constantly, and would often have to belabor two or three
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 1 to 7. 169 
 
 with a stick before he could reduce them to silence. They 
 wanted me to play with them, but I was not sure whether 
 they would pay their losses ; so I tried them first with con- 
 fetti, letting two or three be seen, and then clenching my 
 fist. They guessed four, but I had over fifty in my hand. 
 They laughed when I asked them to pay, so I took the hint, 
 and declined all gambling with them.* 
 
 A loaf of bread was now given to each, and preparations 
 made for departure. I learnt that Manzo and about twen- 
 ty-five men were going down into the plain to take a " com- 
 panion for me," as they expressed it, of whose approach 
 they had had notice. 
 
 * At this time they had formed the habit of calling mo Don Guglielmo, 
 and by this name they continued to address me until I left them. 
 
 H
 
 170 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 CHARTER IX. 
 
 MRS. MOENS'S LETTERS, MAY 17 TO JTXE 18. 
 
 Return to Naples. Hotel de Geneve. The Coppersmiths. Telegrams to 
 England. Letters to the Brigand. Milords or Photographers. First 
 Letter from the Hostage. A noble Reply to a Telegram. The second 
 Letter. Imprisonment of the Brigand's Relatives. Arrival of H. M. S. 
 "Magicienne." Omniscience of the Italian Government. Sunday in 
 Naples. Our Message stopped. The Brigandess's News. Another 
 Letter from the Hostage. A second Installment prepared. Letter to 
 the Times. A Visit from a supposed Manutengulo. I hear of a Friend 
 coming from England. His Arrival. 
 
 Hotel de Geneve, Naples, May 19. As soon as Mr.-Ayns- 
 ley rejoined us, he advised our immediate return to Xaples, 
 as he had, as I understood (in order to carry out the idea of 
 the captive being merely a poor artist), told the brigands 
 that he should go thither to try and raise a ransom among 
 the English residents in that city. Our boxes were packed, 
 and we were just ready to start, when young Mr. Bonharn, 
 the vice consul, and Mr. Edward Holme,* an English resi- 
 dent at Naples, arrived to offer us assistance and advice. 
 
 I had the greatest disinclination to leave Salerno, as I felt 
 tLat there, at all events, I was nearer to my husband, but I 
 considered it my duty to follow Mr. Aynsley's advice, as my 
 husband had, on parting with him, placed me under his care. 
 On arriving at the station, Mrs. Aynsley and I got into a 
 
 * I can not thank this gentleman and his family too much for their 
 kindness to my wife. W. J. C. M.
 
 Mrs.Moens's Letter s> May 17 to June 18. 171 
 
 first-class carriage, and our kind friends Mr. and Mrs. S 
 
 joined us ; but Mr. Aynsley thought that, as we should 
 probably be followed by spies of the brigands, and our mi- 
 nutest actions commented on, it would be better for us to go 
 into a second-class carriage, in order that we might not ap- 
 pear wives of " Milords." He thought that if they could by 
 any means be persuaded that we were poor, they would 
 lower their exorbitant demands. The train was on the 
 point of starting, when the guard came up and told us that 
 a telegram had just been received to the effect that my hus- 
 band was free, and that the guard at Eboli had seen him. 
 We made farther inquiries, but the additional details thrown 
 in made us doubt the news, so we decided not to change 
 our plans, and went on direct to Naples. 
 
 Oh, how wretched I felt when I first found myself alone 
 at the Hotel de Geneve, in the noisiest part of noisy Naples ! 
 We had been advised to go to that hotel when we came 
 over from Sicily, as it was built on high ground, and was 
 considered far healthier than the hotels along the Chiaja, 
 where there had been recently many cases of fever. It is a 
 large building in the centre of the Strada Medina, one of 
 the great thoroughfares of Naples, and free from all the 
 bad smells which make some parts of the town quite unen- 
 durable ; but the noise is distracting. Nearly all the shops 
 around it belong to coppersmiths, whose incessant hammer- 
 ing is added to the ceaseless roll of carriages and cracking 
 of whips. Often I can scarcely hear myself speak ; my only 
 quiet hour is at twelve o'clock, when the inhabitants take 
 their siesta. I find myself constantly repeating a text which 
 a friend quoted to me : " Alexander, the coppersmith, did 
 me much harm." 
 
 But my great misery makes me forget all these minor 
 worries, which I must endure patiently, for to take larger
 
 1 72 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 or more fashionable apartments would be inconsistent with 
 the character which Mr. Aynsley still thinks we may be 
 able to keep up. I was very ill when we arrived, and went 
 directly to my room. Telegrams were immediately dis- 
 patched in my name, but without my knowledge, to Lord 
 Palmerston, to members of my family, and to personal 
 friends of my husband's in London. 
 
 This is a copy of one or two of the telegrams : 
 
 " My husband, Mr. Moens, captured by brigands near 
 Paestum ; 8500 demanded for ransom, or life threatened. 
 May 18th." 
 
 "Don't be alarmed about me; am with friends. Hus- 
 band taken by brigands near Paestum : 8500 pounds ransom 
 asked ; life threatened. Can collect no money here. Urge 
 English government. Italian police and authorities might 
 obtain husband's release if properly pressed. Military use- 
 less. 
 
 The soldiers will never effect the release of my husband. 
 You can not imagine the difficulties of the country ; 6000 
 troops are out, but the brigands laugh at them. To give 
 you an idea of the audacity of the band, they positively 
 came down from the mountains close to Paastum yesterday, 
 and took away all the clothes of the ferrymen of the River 
 Sele. Mr. Aynsley has sent a letter to the brigands, offer- 
 ing a small ransom, and telling them that that is all the mon- 
 ey he can raise. The brigands are not yet certain whether 
 their captives are rich " milords " or photographers. The 
 Italian papers say two poor artists have been mistaken by 
 the brigands for rich English lords. 
 
 May 20. It is now five days since I saw my husband. 
 I can not realize my situation : I feel as if I were in some 
 horrible dream, or rather in the Inferno. I am sure they 
 may well say of us, when we return to England, what the
 
 Mrs. Moens's Letters, May 17 to June 18. 173 
 
 Florentines said of Dante : " That's the man who has been 
 with the brigands, and that's the wife who has been in the 
 Inferno !" My rnind is harassed with perpetual false re- 
 ports ; but we can hear nothing certain of poor "W 's act- 
 ual position. Mr. Aynsley has sent a letter for the brigands 
 by post to a landed proprietor living at Battipaglia, whose 
 brother was captured the same day as my husband by an- 
 other band of brigands.* I believe the brigands arranged 
 with Mr. Aynsley that all letters should be sent to this house, 
 and that they would send messengers there for them. 
 
 In his letter Mr. Aynsley writes as a poor man who has 
 got up a small subscription among the English at Naples. 
 He thinks the brigands will believe this letter, as when he 
 was with them they certainly had begun to doubt whether 
 they had got the rich prize they expected. Fortunately, 
 Avhen captured, Mr. Aynsley had on a very old coat of yel- 
 low silk, which he was wearing for the sake of coolness; 
 
 and W 's fingers were all stained with the chemicals he 
 
 had been using when photographing. One of the brigands 
 asked Mr. Aynsley whether his coat had been torn in the 
 night, and was told that it had been reduced to that state 
 from constant wear. 
 
 I have but one consolation, that we have not brought this 
 misfortune on ourselves by any want of caution. We made 
 every possible inquiry as to the safety of the road, and all 
 informed us that it was quite safe, and well guarded by 
 soldiers; in fact, numerous parties had visited the ruins 
 every day during the past week and throughout the season. 
 I hear a rumor that our party was mistaken for Lord Peru- 
 
 * After waiting nearly a week in the greatest anxiety, we discovered 
 that the person to whose house the letter was directed refused to take it 
 in ; his brother having escaped, he declined holding any communication 
 with the brigands.
 
 1 74 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 broke's ; it is even said that the brigands had received a 
 telegram from Rome to be on the watch for him, as he was 
 expected at Psestum the very day that my husband was 
 taken.* I feel that this would never have occurred if the 
 prefect had been doing his duty. Italians are constantly 
 being carried off to the mountains by the brigands, and the 
 government leaves them quietly to their fate. I am con- 
 vinced that if a different plan were pursued, and the ransom 
 levied on the province where the outrage took place, brig- 
 andage would soon be at an end. 
 
 May 21. I was just retiring last night at eleven o'clock 
 when the consul's servant arrived with a letter to me from 
 my husband the letter I had been so anxiously expecting, 
 but which, when it came, made me feel that all indeed was 
 real, and that I was cruelly separated from him, with a ter- 
 rible uncertainty as to when we should meet again. A 
 paragraph is going the round of the papers that I am out 
 of my mind with grief and anxiety. I think I should be 
 were it not for my sure belief in God's promise to help the 
 weak. I keep repeating to myself that it is "He who 
 looseth the prisoner out of captivity." The letter was dated 
 the 19th of May, and ran as follows : 
 
 "I am pretty well, only tired by night marches over a 
 frightful country, and nearly starved, because the force fol- 
 lows the band. Don't be alarmed, dearest, but trust, as I 
 do, in God, that I shall be restored safe to you. Telegraph 
 to England for money, and make as good a bargain as you 
 can. Pray for me, as I do for your peace of mind. I am 
 still pretty well. Pray send all the money you can get. 
 The new address ' Care of Signer Elia Visconti, Commune 
 di Giffoni, Valle Piano, near Salerno.' Write immediately. 
 One of the family of Visconti is my unfoi'tunate companion. 
 * We heard that his party visited Paestura on the 13th.
 
 Mrs. Moens's Letters, May Iv to June 18. 175 
 
 They are jealous of what I write. I do feel for you so, 
 dearest ; but trust in God. Telegraph for money, for I can 
 not stand this awful life, and long night marches. Do not 
 say any thing to any one except Mr. Aynsley. They think 
 the government will pay for me, so I shall not get off cheap. 
 Remember me to Mr. Aynsley, and tell him that I feel thank- 
 ful that he has escaped what I have gone through."* 
 
 You will observe that he says, " Say nothing to any one 
 but Mr. Aynsley." But this caution came too late, the tele- 
 grams having already been sent ; and the whole affair be- 
 came too notorious for us to carry out the private method 
 of arrangement which the Italians take care to adopt when 
 any of their relatives are captured. 
 
 A member of the banking firm of Gumming, Wood, and 
 Co. has just been to tell me that he has a credit for me for 
 the full amount of the ransom demanded, viz., 8500. This 
 
 is the doing of W. S , who has replied to Mr. Aynsley's 
 
 telegram by making himself responsible for the whole sum, 
 advancing it at once at his own sole risk, lest delay might 
 prove fatal to my husband. How few do we meet who are 
 capable of such noble and generous actions as this ! I have 
 written to those who know about my husband's affairs, in 
 hopes that some of his investments may be realized, and 
 the proceeds handed over to my kind and generous relative, 
 to relieve him at once from our half of the burden. 
 
 Hotel de Geneve, May 30. The heat is now intense. I 
 never go out until the evening, and then some kind friends 
 come and take me for a walk. We pass down the Toledo 
 and Chiaja to the Villa Reale. The streets are crowded 
 with people, and stiflingly close and hot. I weep as I walk, 
 and think over past happiness. " Nessum maggior dolore 
 di che ricordarsi del tempo felice netta miseria" How few 
 * These first letters were written in English. W. J. C. M.
 
 1 76 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 in that gay scene imagined there was one among them suf- 
 fering as I was ! 
 
 The last letter I received from my husband was dated the 
 26th of May, and was all written in Italian : 
 
 "I have already written to you to implore you to send 
 the money at once. The captain of the band says he will 
 have 50,000 ducats immediately (8500). He says that if 
 that sum is not sent directly, my life is lost. He will cut 
 off my head, and send it to you without pity. I am pretty 
 well at present ; but this life in the mountains is truly in- 
 supportable and terrible, particularly now, because we are 
 followed by the troops in great numbers, and this places my 
 life in great danger. I am dying of hunger and fatigue, de- 
 spair and continual anguish : thinking of you is my greatest 
 grief. The captain will make me write in Italian, in which 
 language you must reply to me, so that he may read our 
 letters. Send the money in an iron box as quickly as pos- 
 sible, and as much as possible at once. Write to England 
 immediately to obtain money: write to me directly, I en- 
 treat you. The place where the money and letters are to be 
 sent is to the house of my unfortunate fellow-prisoner's fa- 
 ther. Address, ' To the Band, care of Signor Elia Visconti, 
 Giffoni, Yalle Piano, near Salerno.' The letter must be sent 
 by hand, not by the post. 
 
 " I entreat you to send the money directly. Try all the 
 means possible. Go to all my country-people, to the En- 
 glish consul, and the Italian government, if possible, and also 
 entreat that the troops be withdrawn at once. It is impos- 
 sible to live in these horrible forests, amid perpetual rain. 
 I am always wet, and my clothes are not half warm enough. 
 
 Write to . [Here followed the names of three of his 
 
 friends.] Send to all these. Make every effort to get me
 
 Mrs. Moens's Letters, May I 1 ! to June 18. 17V 
 
 out of this horrible prison. Have faith in God, as I have. 
 I do not know where to direct this letter to you. It is im- 
 possible to free me without money. Send the money in 
 gold. Adieu, my dearest wife. Arrange so that the money 
 is sent out without the knowledge of the authorities, or it 
 will be very hard for me. The captain will kill me. Send 
 the money secretly, and let me know the sum you send. 
 Once more, adieu, my dearest Annie. Up to this time I 
 have had no letter from you ; this makes me truly unhappy. 
 " Your unhappy husband, W. J. C. M."* 
 
 June 3. My husband's letters make me distracted when 
 I think of them. God help us both ! I cry day and night 
 unto Him. 
 
 May 31. Mr. Aynsley has sent a letter to the brigands to 
 say 400 would be sent to them, but has received no an- 
 swer. Two or three messengers have been sent, one of 
 them brother to the captain of the band. He is considered 
 an honest character, and is employed on the railway. He 
 has a safe-conduct and pass from the general, which had 
 been procured with great difficulty ; but up to this time no 
 messenger has returned. Martial law has been established 
 all over the province, and the families of the brigands have 
 been thrown into prison, in all, nearly 800 persons. 
 
 The brigands now have an idea that my husband is a 
 relation of Lord Palmerston, on account of the telegram. 
 They are about twelve miles from Salerno. Unfortunately, 
 there is a report all over Naples that the consul may draw 
 for any sum of money, and we are in fear now the brig- 
 ands will demand even more than 8000. The prefect, 
 too, has just been removed to another district, which is 
 unfortunate for us, for, although his successor has an excel- 
 * The greater part of this was dictated by the captain. 
 H2
 
 178 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 lent reputation, a change at such a crisis might be disas- 
 trous to us. 
 
 The Magicienne steam frigate has arrived in the Bay of 
 Salerno. It seems at first sight rather ridiculous to send a 
 man-of-war to Salerno to liberate a prisoner in the mount- 
 ains, but from something Manzo said about being tired of 
 his perilous way of life, Mr. Aynsley fancied that he might 
 be induced to accept a small sum of money, and then, with 
 his prisoner, take refuge on board the English ship, to be 
 conveyed in safety out of the kingdom. I hear that years 
 ago a young lady was captured by a band, and, after every 
 conceivable plan had been tried in vain, a similar one to this 
 was adopted for her liberation, and an English man-of-war 
 brought both her and her captors away in safety. So Mr. 
 Aynsley mentioned the matter to the consul general, w r ho, 
 after communicating with the civil authorities at Florence 
 and receiving their assent, obtained the permission of the 
 English government to request the English admiral at Mal- 
 ta to send up a ship. 
 
 The troops are scouring the country and acting with un- 
 wonted energy, so that it is extremely difficult to communi- 
 cate with the band, and the laws are very stringent against 
 paying money to the brigands, the punishment for so doing 
 being twenty years at the galleys ; besides, the money found 
 on a messenger may be confiscated by the soldiers. You 
 see, therefore, how this increases our difficulties. Every 
 road to the mountains is guarded, and it is difficult to find 
 any one who will run the risk of taking the money. The 
 most insignificant individual is well known to the govern- 
 ment, and no one can go from one province to another with- 
 out a pass. The birthplace, name, and parentage of every 
 one of the brigands are fully known to the government offi- 
 cials here.
 
 Mrs. Moens's Letters, May 11 to June 18. 179 
 
 June 4. A great feast-day the anniversary of Garibaldi's 
 entrance into Naples. All the people are out in the streets 
 in gala costume. My enemies, the tinmen, are quiet, but the 
 church bells ring every ten minutes, and, unfortunately, the 
 parish church is close to the hotel, and its bells are very 
 numerous and large, and particularly loud. I was so glad 
 when it was time for our English ' service, and I drove 
 through the crowded streets, swarming with men and sol- 
 diers, to the English church, an extremely pretty building, 
 but very badly ventilated. In the middle of the service the 
 heat made me feel so faint that I left Mrs. Aynsley, and went 
 out and got into a carriage. On my way to the hotel my 
 carriage was stopped by the procession of soldiers. I had 
 to wait in the burning sun while regiment after regiment of 
 cavalry and infantry passed me. General Ttirr was in a 
 carriage with his aids-de-camp. I did not enjoy the scene. 
 The music, the gay dresses, the military pomp, only made 
 me feel sad. I thought how differently I should have felt 
 had my husband been with me. The sight of the soldiers 
 to me was fearful. I always felt as if my husband was in 
 battle, and who could tell how it might terminate? I 
 reached my hotel at last, and shut the windows to keep out 
 all sound. How desolate and wretched I was! What 
 gnawing anxiety at my heart! How I longed for one of 
 my sisters to be with me, it is so very hard to bear grief 
 alone ! St. Paul knew well this craving of the human heart 
 when he said, " Bear ye one another's burdens." 
 
 (There is one lesson I hope I have learned through this 
 heavy trial, and that is, to seek out the wretched not to 
 wait for the wretched to seek me and to try and comfort 
 them by cheerful and consoling words to give them a little 
 of my time. Many want that more than money, which can 
 never make up for want of sympathy.)
 
 180 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 In the evening there were splendid illuminations in honor 
 of Garibaldi. 
 
 I was so wretched at this hotel that I longed to go else- 
 where, but Mr. and Mrs. Aynsley persuaded me to try the 
 fourth story, as they still thought of keeping up the char- 
 acter which they hoped the brigands believed to belong to 
 Mr. Aynsley and my husband. I always felt convinced that 
 it would be impossible to deceive the brigands, still I thought 
 it better to acquiesce ; and, in accordance with their sugges- 
 tions, I received no visits from my countrywomen. Those 
 who know how ready English people are to sympathize with 
 their compatriots in trouble in a foreign land can easily imag- 
 ine of how much comfort and sympathy I was thus depriv- 
 ing myself! 
 
 I accordingly went up higher, where I had a large room, 
 and my experience of Italian hotels teaches me always to 
 choose either the third or fourth stories, where one avoids 
 the bad smells, and the air is fresher. I had a fine view of 
 Vesuvius from my room. The volcano was somewhat act- 
 ive during the whole of my stay. I am anxiously expecting 
 news from Salerno, as Manzo's brother has not yet returned. 
 
 June 6. After a week of the utmost anxiety, expecting 
 every hour the return of the messenger (Manzo's brother), 
 his mother has come to us in great distress, to tell us that, 
 he is in prison, heavily ironed. He was provided with a 
 pass signed by General Balegno, the head of the forces in 
 the province of Salerno, and countersigned by our consul 
 general, Mr. Bonham ; but, notwithstanding, he was stopped 
 by a captain of Carbineers, who, on his own responsibility, 
 arrested him, and without informing us of what had hap- 
 pened, has kept him prisoner, until he had farther instruc- 
 tions from his commanding officer; of course Mr. Bonham 
 will soon procure his release, but this delay is terrible: what 
 must it, be to my poor husband !
 
 Mrs. Moens's Letters, May 17 to June 18. 181 
 
 The consul is acting with great care : both he and all his 
 advisers are afraid that if they were to give the whole 
 amount at once, the brigands would not be satisfied, but re- 
 quire just as much again : this is the idea and fear of every 
 one. 
 
 A brigandess has given herself up to the authorities. She 
 was shot in the arm through some carelessness on the part 
 of one of the band. For seven days she remained with the 
 brigands. Though the arm was fractured, the brigands 
 would not let her leave them. At last she was so ill, she 
 got away and came to Salerno, and presented herself to the 
 authorities; her arm was then amputated. She had so 
 much nerve that she refused chloroform, and neither groan- 
 ed nor complained. The only sign she gave of suffering 
 was clenching her teeth. When the surgeons left her she 
 said, " Remember, I had eighteen Napoleons about me 
 when I came here; I must have them again when I am 
 well !" She says my husband is well, and a favorite with 
 the band, because he walks well, and gives no trouble, 
 and amuses himself with sketching. This news is better 
 than nothing, but still I can not help feeling intensely anx- 
 ious for him, as the troops are still in pursuit. In his letter 
 to me, he wrote that the captain of the band says he will 
 never give him up to the troops alive. The brigands have 
 refused to go on board the frigate; they send word the 
 English climate would not agree with their health; it is 
 too cold. 
 
 The last report in Naples is that my husband and the 
 brigands have joined together to get as much money as 
 they possibly can, and that he intends to join the band. 
 
 June 8. The first installment of money has at last been 
 successfully conveyed to the mountains; and to-day I re- 
 ceived the following letter written (in Italian) on the 6th 
 of Jnno :
 
 182 Engtish Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 " Write to me, I pray yon. I think of you continually. 
 I am indeed unhappy ; the horrors of the life I am leading 
 are indescribable. I am exposed to all the inclemency of 
 the weather; I am dying of hunger, cold, wet, and anguish. 
 I believe that ^ou would do every thing to see me again. 
 Borrow money directly, and send it immediately to the 
 mountains to ransom me. The captain has received the 
 10,000 francs that you sent me, and he sends you word that 
 to free me, 50,000 ducats are required. This sum, there- 
 fore, must be collected if you wish to see me again. I en- 
 treat you to borrow of , or of , the remainder 
 
 to make up the 50,000 ducats, and send the money to Vis- 
 conti's house. Do not hope to liberate me for a less sum. 
 Here I am in constant peril. I can not possibly remain 
 much longer in good health. I send you, by Signor Visconti, 
 a little gift, cut by my own hand : prize it, and think often 
 of me. Send the things that I have written for, and send 
 immediately. Adieu, dearest ; pray write to me, and believe 
 in my sufferings and in my affection. Have faith in God. 
 " Your affectionate husband, "W. J. C. M. 
 
 " The band treats me very badly : I can not endure it. 
 
 " P.S. I pray you to get the troops withdrawn, if you 
 love me. The captain says that I may be liberated by the 
 troops, but I shall not be alive. He also says that the 
 money, 10,000 francs, is not enough to buy bread for me." 
 
 This letter was sent to Signor Visconti, at Giffoni, and 
 by him forwarded to me through the consul general. 
 
 Immediately on receipt of it we took measures for for- 
 warding a farther sum to the brigands ; and we have de- 
 termined on limiting the next installment to 17,000 francs, 
 in the hope that the robbers will let my husband go on re- 
 ceipt of that sum, without demanding more.
 
 Mrs. Moens's Letters, May 17 to June 18. 183 
 
 Signer Visconti, whose son was for three weeks my hus- 
 band's companion in captivity, has paid me a visit of con- 
 dolence, accompanied by his son. The interview was a try- 
 ing one for me. 
 
 June 13. I sent my letter to the Times, although I have 
 not seen Mr. Aynsley's letter, because every one keeps writ- 
 ing to me from England that life with the brigands can not 
 be so very unpleasant after all, and this, too, at the time 
 when I am receiving such dreadful letters from my husband. 
 I was determined that the real state of the case should be 
 known, and yet I was frightened at my own boldness in 
 " writing to the Times" and actually carried the letter to 
 and fro between the hotel and the post-office several times 
 before I could summon up courage to post it. 
 
 I am still in fearful suspense and anxiety. We are now 
 negotiating through Signor Visconti, who is a rich landed 
 proprietor at Giffoni, fourteen miles from Salerno. He has 
 been forced by the brigands themselves to receive our 
 money and letters. His son and nephew have been with 
 the brigands two months, and he has had to pay 4150 
 ransom for the two. 
 
 A gentleman who is believed to be connected with the 
 brigands* came yesterday to see me, on purpose to find out 
 if we were very rich people. I was warned of his coming, 
 and prepared accordingly. I had many lectures given me 
 to appear bold and indifferent, so that the brigands might 
 not extort much through my fears. I fortunately wore my 
 hat, which concealed the tears which constantly came into 
 my eyes. He told us he had heard there was an enor- 
 mous sum waiting to be used as ransom, and that the brig- 
 ands believed my husband to be a nobleman, and that the 
 government would pay. So you see the difficulties we have 
 
 * I need scarcely say that we do not now believe in this connection.
 
 184 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 to contend with, uot to mention the distance the brigands 
 are off. It takes such a very long time to do any thing. It 
 is indeed trying ; I feel it sometimes unbearable. 
 
 If the troops do not prevent us, the consul general sends 
 to-morrow some more money, some flannels, a water-proof 
 coat, and a Bible. My husband has written to me for these 
 things. He seems to suffer so from cold very different 
 from us at Naples, who are melting with the heat. He sent 
 me a little wooden cross, which he had amused himself in 
 carving. His letters are all in Italian, as before. The life 
 must be terrible for him. I only hope and pray some one is 
 coming to me from England, for I am in a very lonely posi- 
 tion. 
 
 June 17. There was a very fearful storm last night. It 
 began in the evening, and lasted until one or two o'clock in 
 the morning. I could not rest, thinking of my husband be- 
 ing exposed to its violence, with no shelter. 
 
 At this time H. C , one of my brothers-in-law, was on 
 
 his way to Naples to see what he could do for us. I after- 
 ward heard that he went to Florence en route, and was very 
 kindly received there by the British envoy, who introduced 
 him to some of the ministers, and procured from them for 
 him letters of introduction and recommendation to the prin- 
 pat local authorities (civil and military) at Salerno. These 
 letters were of the greatest possible use in furthering the re- 
 quests which he afterward preferred to these important of- 
 ficials personally on the spot, accompanied by the consul 
 general or Mr. Richard Holme. 
 
 On the 17th of June, a gentleman who had traveled with 
 H. C from Genoa to Leghorn called on me at his re- 
 quest, to let me know that my friend was close at hand. It 
 was a great satisfaction to me to hear that I should so soon 
 have the assistance of one whom I knew woll.
 
 Mrs. Moens's Letters, May 17 to June 18. 185 
 
 On the 18th of June my friend appeared at the Hotel 
 de Geneve at breakfast. I was so delighted to see him. 
 Only those who have been so long in trouble among stran- 
 gers, and separated from their own kith and kin, can under- 
 stand the pleasure with which I now found that I had an 
 old friend at my side. TVe talked of my ofd home, and of 
 the kind hearts that felt for me there. Really sometimes it 
 seemed almost worth while to be placed in my present un- 
 happy position just to learn what truly good, and kind, and 
 lovinsr hearts there are in the world. And in the fresh 
 
 O 
 
 wonder and excitement of hearing what my friends at home 
 had done and said about me, I for a moment forgot my 
 great sorrow. But time was precious, and my newly-ar- 
 rived friend lost not a moment in seeking out the consul 
 general, and deliberating with him and Mr. Aynsley on 
 what was to be done for my husband.
 
 186 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 DIAEY OF MR. MOENS, JUNE 7 TO 28. 
 
 Thieving .Propensities of Cerino. Generoso's Conduct worthy of his 
 Name. I am again left with five Guardians. The Magidenne. A 
 Three Days' Rest. New and very unpleasant Companions. Small 
 Amount of Washing done in the Mountains. A long Rest. Bread 
 Diet. Its Effect. A Peasant Visitor. Wood-carving. A Message 
 with Letters. A second Installment and warm Clothing. I write 
 again. My new Treasures. The Luxury of a Comb. 
 
 DURING the afternoon the rain came on again, and I took 
 shelter under the large rock. "While there, Pepino came up 
 and asked me for the capuce that had been given me. He 
 said it was his, and he wanted it. I told him that I could 
 not possibly do without it ; the weather was much too wet 
 and cold, and that a wide-awake was no protection at night, 
 and that it was of no use asking me for it, for I did not mean 
 to give it to him. I always wore it tied round my neck by 
 the string, with the hood hanging on my back ; so I looked 
 to see if it was secure, so that they could not snatch it off, 
 for I knew that Manzo would not let it be taken away if I 
 stoutly resisted. But Pepino was too clever for me, and by 
 artifice got the better of me. He went away, and sent one 
 of his band to tell me that he did not care whether he had 
 the capuce or my wide-awake. I thought it better to make 
 a compromise, and said I would rather be without the wide- 
 awake, and gave it to him, and I then had to put the capuce 
 on my head. I was then called by two or three who were a 
 little way off, and when advancing toward them the crafty
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 7 to 28. 187 
 
 ruffian, who was lying in wait behind a corner of the rock, 
 made a snatch at the coveted capuee, and pulled it off my 
 head, throwing me back the wide-awake.* He immediately 
 started off with his men, as it had been arranged the two 
 bands were to separate. 
 
 I was in a great rage, and complained bitterly to the col- 
 lected band of the conduct of Pepino, telling them I was 
 sure to catch cold the first night I slept without a covering 
 to my head, and that then I should have an attack of some 
 dangerous fever, which might carry me off and spoil their 
 chance of farther ransom. I thought that there was no 
 chance of my getting another capuce, for they were very 
 scarce, only two having them, and one of these was sewed 
 on to the jacket ; but I kept on grumbling at their treat- 
 ment of the poor prisoner, whom they had taken away from 
 his friends in order to rob, like petty thieves and pick- 
 pockets, not being contented with the prospect of a large 
 ransom. 
 
 They seemed rather ashamed of this ; and in a short time, 
 to my astonishment, Generoso, the man whom I had threat- 
 ened to knock down last night for bullying me while walk- 
 ing, took off his hood and gave it to me. This was the only 
 one they had, and of course I did not in the least expect to 
 get it, though I had tried for it. It was not quite so new 
 as Pepino's, but was equally large and very warm. I was 
 amazed at Generoso forgetting the occurrence of the pre- 
 
 * He had before this enraged me much during the morning. I had lent 
 my leathern drinking-cup to Visconti, and as he was passing it back to 
 me, Doniella seized hold of it and gave it to Pepino, who quietly put it 
 into his pocket I asked for it, but he took no notice of my request, and 
 went away, while I was not allowed to move. I asked several to go to 
 him for it, but they said it was only a joke, and he would be sure to give it 
 me back ; but it shared the same fate as the capuce, and so I was robbed 
 of both these useful articles.
 
 188 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 vious night, for it is seldom that an Italian ever forgets an 
 insult or an injury, and last night he had been most indig- 
 nant at the captive turning round against the captor. In- 
 structions were now given by Manzo to Lorenzo and Pa- 
 vone (who, with Antonio, Scope, and Malone, were to take 
 charge of me during the absence of the captain and the rest 
 of the band) never to lose sight of me day or night that I 
 was never to be allowed to move from the hiding-place 
 chosen that a factione^ alias sentinel, was always to be 
 posted close to me ; and that, as regarded food, I was to be 
 treated like a companion, share and share alike. This, I 
 presume, was added specially, because, when Pepino stole 
 my portion of bread, I had told Manzo that they had always 
 given us a smaller share of food than they had taken for 
 themselves. 
 
 They were also told that if I escaped their lives were to 
 answer for it ; that I was to be shot down without mercy 
 should I attempt to run away, and that they were to collect 
 all the bread that they could possibly obtain. 
 
 We were then left -to ourselves, and Manzo, with about 
 twenty-five men, went down to try their luck upon the 
 plains. We rekindled the fire, and spent the hour that we 
 remained in this place warming ourselves over it. Visconti 
 and his guide had gone away to the south ; Manzo had also 
 gone in the same direction ; Pepino had taken a northwest 
 direction, while we went to the southeast down the mount- 
 ain, retracing the path by which we had ascended last night. 
 Scope and Malone each carried a sack of bread on their 
 shoulders, and Lorenzo carried a qiiantity of cheese in the 
 wallet which had belonged to poor Luigi, who had been 
 killed, as I have related, by falling over a precipice. It was 
 considered too light for us to walk on the scorza, for fear of 
 meeting the troops, or being seen by peasants, who might
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 7 to 28. 189 
 
 give information to them ; so we waited in the frasche for 
 another hour, Lorenzo telling me the while that we were 
 now going to have a good time of it, with plenty to eat, and 
 that I was to fear nothing, but that the slightest attempt to 
 escape would prove fatal to me. I felt very wretched ; I 
 had seen my fellow-captives go joyfully away, with the cer- 
 tainty of soon being united to all dear to them, while for me 
 all was uncertainty and misery. I could not understand 
 from the letters I had received what my friends w r ere doing, 
 for I saw that none of the band would trust themselves in 
 the power of any one, and the idea of going on board any 
 man-of-war was laughed at and refused, after the way in 
 Avhieh the captain's brother had been treated by the soldiers 
 when bringing the consul's letter, and armed with a pass 
 from the general. It was most fortunate for me that they 
 would not hear of it, for my life would certainly have been 
 sacrificed in revenge for the bad faith on the part of the 
 Italian government. 
 
 (The civil authorities at Florence had agreed to the plan 
 at the request of our minister there, and on this agreement 
 the consul general had telegraphed to the Foreign Office for 
 a vessel, and they had sent to Malta ordering the Magici- 
 enne, sixteen guns, Captain Armytage, to go to Salerno with 
 sealed orders. But the military authorities had determined 
 not to allow the proposed scheme to be carried out, and in- 
 tended to have seized the brigands while on their way to the 
 sea-shore. I learned this after my release, and I am surely 
 justified in thinking that non tali auxilio,nec defensoribus 
 istis, would my release ever have been brought about.) 
 
 As soon as it grew dusk we ventured on the roadway, but 
 this time it was all down hill, and the descent occupied only 
 half the time of the ascent. We crossed the stream nearly 
 opposite a long low store-house, situated some way up the
 
 190 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 mountain, on the western side of the stream. How well I 
 got to know that house ! for the next three weeks it was 
 always in sight, and I was constantly watching it for the 
 chance of seeing an honest man, a sight which though I 
 could never approach him seemed to comfort me. We 
 had ascended along a dark and gloomy ravine, where the 
 ground was very wet from the heavy rain. Our boots and 
 legs were as wet as they could be, as well as our capotes, 
 and in this state we lay down on the ground to sleep. I was 
 off in a moment, for I had had no sleep the night before, and 
 had done a great deal of walking during the last two days. 
 
 June 8. We woke very wet and cold, and went higher 
 up, where we found a little grotto just large enough for our 
 party ; the rock rose above it covered with ivy, and a nar- 
 row space at the bottom of this served as a path for us when 
 the brigands wished to go either to the right or left ; im- 
 mediately below us was the ravine, and with a sentinel 
 on the watch, no one could approach without our having 
 plenty of time to escape before they could get near enough 
 to do us any harm, unless the troops were to come from 
 above and below simultaneously, in which case we should 
 have been caught in a trap. It was a most gloomy place, 
 and nothing was to be seen but the trees close at hand. 
 
 We stopped here for the next three days, spending a 
 most quiet time a great contrast to the hard time I had 
 had while w r ith Cerino and his band, who had always ill- 
 treated me ; here they left me pretty well to myself, and 
 interfered but little with me. Lorenzo and Antonio went 
 out every night foraging, and always returned with a quan- 
 tity of bread ; once with a large lump of freshly-made 
 cheese, a little meat that had been cooked by shepherds, 
 and some cherries. Another time they brought up a. fiasco 
 of wine, of all of which they gave me a fair share, telling me
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 1 to 28. 191 
 
 they wished to keep ine well. They also had some pasta, 
 which was always cooked at mid-day ; the fire was made 
 against the rock, and if any smoke arose it was lost amid 
 the ivy. I always watched the process of boiling the mac- 
 aroni with interest, having nothing else to do to while away 
 a weary hour. The great pot was half filled with water, 
 and put on to boil, with a lump of bacon fat that had been 
 well chopped with their knives ; pepper and salt was added, 
 and by the time the water boiled the fat was nearly melt- 
 ed. The pasta, which they had well picked over, was noAv 
 put in, and boiled till it was soft enough ; the caldron was 
 then taken off the fire and put on one side to cool. They 
 did it with so much nicety that the pasta just soaked up 
 the water, and they very seldom had to pour any off. When 
 cool enough we used to collect round, and some with fingers, 
 and some with spoons, soon made the bottom of the pot 
 appear. The quantity they would stow away was surpris- 
 ing. Pavone always went on eating at least five minutes 
 longer than any of the rest. The bread was all taken out 
 of the sacks and stowed away in the holes in the caves ; all 
 the new bread that was got, having been twice baked, would 
 last any time, but it was as hard as a brick. 
 
 Seeing Antonio writing a letter with great difficulty, I 
 offered to assist him, and composed a letter to his mother in 
 prison, which was read out loud, to the great satisfaction 
 of all the band. Manzo's cousin then asked me to write one 
 for him, which was rather more difficult, as it was to his 
 beloved, who, contrary to the wishes of her parents, had 
 been engaged to this bandit. After many vows of eternal 
 love, she was entreated not to forget her disconsolate lover 
 in the wild woods and mountains, who " trusted to the Al- 
 mighty to enable him to escape his now desperate course of 
 life." He implored her not to think of any one else. I put
 
 1 92 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 it all in pretty language, as endearing as I could manage in 
 Italian. It was (like the other) read out loud, and met with 
 unqualified approbation. I was not allowed to address it, 
 for fear of compromising the beloved one. 
 
 One afternoon they w 7 ere very angry with me, who had 
 offended in the most innocent way. While they were tak- 
 ing their usual afternoon siesta I was put in my usual 
 place, lying down (for the cave was too low to allow of any 
 other position) with them all in front of me, so that I could 
 not possibly leave the cave without waking them. They 
 thought I was asleep, and all dropped off fast. I got very 
 tired of being in the same position, and besides this, my hips 
 were quite sore from the hard ground ; I tried to sit up, and 
 in doing so my hat touched the top of the cave, and rolled 
 down past where they were lying asleep. I managed to 
 rest my back against the side and sit up. (I always took 
 advantage of their sleeping to read through our Church 
 Service, which I now did daily.) At last they woke up, 
 and when Lorenzo saw me sitting up, and my hat two yards 
 off, he was very angry, and said that I had been trying to 
 escape. All joined with him, and raved at rue for the rest 
 of the day. I told them how it had happened, but they 
 would not be convinced but that it was as they imagined. 
 
 It was here that I first became sensible that I had become 
 the dwelling-place of dozens of those disgusting little insects 
 whose very name makes one shudder in my own cleanly 
 land, where a very, very small proportion only of the popu- 
 lation know more of them than their name ; the brigands 
 are always full of them, on account of their filthy habit of 
 not washing, and the difficulty of obtaining clean clothing. 
 Every thing belonging to them is infested with these in- 
 sects, and if only one gets a footing on a man, it is impossi- 
 ble to escape the plague ; and a plague it truly is, as I soon
 
 Diary of Mr. Hfoen$, June 7 to 28. 193 
 
 found out. I had worn the same clothes day and night for 
 nearly a month, and had never been allowed to wash myself. 
 If I attempted to remove any garment, I was immediately 
 told to put it on again, for fear of the troops coming, and 
 our having to run for our lives, and water being generally 
 very scarce in our hiding-places. I was not even ever al- 
 lowed to take off my boots, except for the purpose of shak- 
 ing out the dust and dirt, and so I was deprived of the com- 
 fort of removing them after a long march. 
 
 I had never even seen one ofiny new persecutors before, 
 and I was truly horrified when I discovered that I was cov- 
 ered with them. I had been without a comb, and I was 
 afraid of using theirs for this very reason, and this filthy 
 state their combs were always in. I was not able to touch 
 my hair till the 19th of June, when I received the comb sent 
 me by my friends. In a very short time my whole body 
 was covered with bites, and my skin presented the same 
 appearance as if I had the scarlet fever. Fearful was the 
 irritation occasioned, and my body was very soon one mass 
 of sores. As time went on, instead of getting better, it 
 grew worse and worse till the day of my release. The brig- 
 ands suffer much themselves ; but their skin being hardei*, 
 and thoroughly inoculated with the poison, it never shows 
 the bites. 
 
 Lorenzo offered me a clean shirt, but I was still afraid of 
 leaving off flannel. Next day, however, I gladly accepted 
 it, and for a few days I was better. He had previously got 
 a collar and white pocket-handkerchief washed for me, and 
 now I intrusted this precious garment to his care; but, 
 alas ! I never saw it again ; and probably it is now worn by 
 the peasant who charged a ducat (or 3s. 4c7.) for washing it. 
 One day, when Lorenzo returned from foraging, he reported 
 a better and safer grotto higher up, to which we removed 
 
 I
 
 194 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 on the llth of June. It was exactly opposite the store- 
 house, at the end of the spur of the mountains, between the 
 two valleys. When we unstored the bread, a great deal 
 was found to be mouldy, the weather had been so wet. 
 We had to eat this first ; a great quantity had been accu- 
 mulated, but more was got every second night. We re- 
 mained here a week, passing a very quiet and secure time, 
 only worried by the musquitoes, which came out by swarms 
 at sunset and in the early morning. I found a pair of kid 
 gloves in my pocket, whicfe I wore to protect my hands ; 
 but, notwithstanding all my care, I got dreadfully bitten. 
 House-flies and blue-bottles also were most annoying ; they 
 would keep settling on our faces, and nothing would drive 
 them off. 
 
 Afterward I often looked back to this quiet fortnight. I 
 grew quite stout from the bread diet and want of exercise. 
 I was always lying down, but could not get into the habit 
 of sleeping in the daytime. How long the day seemed ! 
 but I was well treated, Scope being the only One who was 
 not kind to me. The other four were the best disposed of 
 all the band toward me, except the captain. They too, aft- 
 erward, often alluded to this quiet time, when food was so 
 abundant, and when wine came up to iis three or four times. 
 Meat was the only rarity ; once only did it appear. 
 
 One day we heard a rustle in the wood below us, and 
 Pavone crept down to see what it was, and in a short time 
 returned with a peasant, whom he told to sit down ; but, 
 seeing that I was looking at him, he called him aside so that 
 I could not see him. He left his jacket, hatchet, and a large 
 roll of the bark of a sycamore-tree, which is used for the 
 soles of women's shoes, where he had been sitting. Scope 
 overhauled the pockets, and finding some tinder, quietly ap- 
 propriated it. The cuffs of the coat were tied up, and thus
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 7 to 28. 195 
 
 the sleeves were made into bags. This, I suspect, is a fa- 
 vorite way of carrying articles that are meant to be con- 
 cealed; the jacket is then thrown over the shoulder, which 
 is the usual way of carrying it in warm weather. I had 
 seen a half Napoleon given to him as a complimento while 
 he was sitting near me, but I could not find out what for. 
 After Pavone had been talking half an hour with him, he 
 came back and told me to lie down with my face to the 
 ground ; my capote was then thrown over me, and I was 
 told that the peasant was infame, and that they were going 
 to kill him. The peasant was then taken past me, and I 
 drew the cloak on one side and looked out, which drew 
 down on me the anger of all. In a few minutes those of 
 my guardians who went with him came back and told me 
 they had killed him. I asked them what was the use of 
 lying to me so ; that if they had been going to kill him they 
 would not have given him a present, and that dead men did 
 not carry their bark away with them. In two days' time I 
 saw the same peasant again, so I asked them if he had risen 
 from the grave ; they laughed, and said I wis too wide 
 awake to what was going on. 
 
 Andrea, the executioner, came up here and joined us with 
 two or three others. He was suffering from fever, and took 
 advantage of this to appropriate to himself any delicacies, 
 such as cheese, etc., that we had by us. They brought up 
 with them a quantity of onions and garlic, which they had 
 stolen when in the plain of Salerno, where they had been 
 with Manzo to look after another victim, but happily with- 
 out success. They had been close to Salerno, and had been 
 discovered four times by the troops, but had got back with- 
 out losing any of their number. They grumbled very much 
 at the vigilance of the general, and told me that if the troops 
 were not withdrawn my head was to be cut off. My an- 
 swer to this was as usual, "JBene se volete"
 
 196 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 I had been so long without vegetable food that I was de- 
 lighted with onions, and ate them like apples ; the cloves 
 of garlic also were roasted and eaten, and also put into the 
 pasta^ so I was forced to get used to the flavor, and after 
 the first two attempts I even got to like it, though previ- 
 ously I would have gone any distance to avoid the proxim- 
 ity of any one who had been partaking of it. The greedi- 
 ness of Scope always disgusted me ; not contented with his 
 share, he always took advantage of every opportunity to 
 steal any bacon or cheese that had been put away for the 
 next day, and he was never satisfied unless he was always 
 eating. While in this place I amused myself with carving 
 on my stick " XV Maggio, 1865. W. J. C. M. J. C. M. 
 A. Presi dalla banda di Manzo." This delighted them 
 immensely, and they were continually making me read to 
 them what I had written. 
 
 Early in the morning on the 19th of June I was thrown 
 into a great state of excitement by seeing Zacharia come 
 up. He had two letters for me one from the consul gen- 
 eral at Naples, Mr. Bonham, and the other from my wife 
 the first that I had received. He also had brought up 
 17,000 francs, and had left a bundle of the warm clothing 
 that I had sent for by Visconti. But I had to practice pa- 
 tience. The captain had to read the letters before I was 
 allowed to have them. Visconti's man told me that Don 
 Francesco and Tomasino had recovered their fatigues and 
 were quite well. I asked him if the former had been to 
 Naple*4iO see Mrs. Moens. This I was told he had done 
 the second day after getting home. He was given a loaf 
 of bread, and then went away ; and the letters and mon- 
 ey were sent to Manzo, who was in the neighborhood. In 
 the afternoon the letters were sent down to me, the cap- 
 tain having read them, and also a letter which I had re-
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 7 to 28. 197 
 
 quested Visconti to get his father to write, in order to dis- 
 abuse the brigands' mind as to my being a " Milord." 
 
 This letter was entirely about myself, and did not refer 
 to any other matter. I mention this particularly, because 
 many have wished to implicate this unfortunate family as 
 being manutengoli i. e., " hand-extenders," or supporters 
 of the brigands. Nothing could be more absurd than this, 
 for they had just paid more than 4000 for the ransom of 
 two members of their family, the greater part of which 
 money I saw received by and divided among the band. 
 
 When I received my wife's letter I kissed it before them 
 all, and eagerly devoured the contents ; but the sight of 
 the well-known characters produced a reaction also, and I 
 felt dreadfully miserable and low-spirited. Among other 
 things that were sent to me was a New Testament. 
 
 I was now made to write more letters. How my heart 
 sank at the phrases I was forced to use, the captain stand- 
 ing over me dictating, and threatening the most awful things 
 should the troops not be withdrawn and the money sent at 
 once. I explained to him that my friends had written to 
 England for money, and that it took a long time to receive 
 an answer. I also told him that a letter in English would 
 be far more effective than one in Italian dictated by him, 
 and that the English were not like Italians, and it was of 
 no use to ask so much money, for my friends would never 
 send it. The most they could expect to raise would be 
 5000 or 10,000 ducats, and even that was very improba- 
 ble, for I knew the consul would not pay any thing for me. 
 They told me that one of my ships was at Salerno, and five 
 more at Naples ; and they wanted to know, if I did not 
 make war on Victor Emmanuel myself, whether the En- 
 glish nation would send soldiers out to do so. I assured 
 them that I did not even possess a little boat, and that the
 
 198 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 ships were not mine, but belonged to the Queen of En- 
 gland. They would not believe my statements that I was 
 not the rich man they took me for, and the captain would 
 not hear of writing for less than the original sum. lie said 
 that the Italian government was going to pay, and that 
 they had a letter from the secretary of the prefect at Sa- 
 lerno stating that all the money was there ; but the gov- 
 ernment were sending' only a little at a time, in order to 
 get off cheaper. At last the letter was written. It was 
 rather difficult for me to write without help in Italian ; be- 
 fore this I always had the assistance of Visconti. 
 
 The captain now went away, leaving with me only five 
 of the men, and giving orders that we were to leave the 
 place where we had spent the last twelve days, and to go to 
 the mountain opposite ; so in the evening we descended, 
 crossed the river, and then went up to the place fixed upon. 
 Soon after leaving the river Lorenzo went a few yards 
 from the path, and from the corner of a bank brought forth 
 my things, tied up in a red silk pocket-handkerchief. I 
 was delighted to see a thin water-proof coat, which would 
 serve to keep me from the ill effects of the wet ground at 
 night. I could not examine my treasures then, as I had to 
 devote myself to the steep path before us. 
 
 All this side of the valley was cultivated to a considerable 
 height with wheat, potatoes, and Indian corn. We observed 
 great caution in passing the magazine to which I have re- 
 ferred before. We soon came to a deep and most diffi- 
 cult ravine. The rocky and precipitous sides of the narrow 
 chasm were covered with tremendous brambles, the stems 
 of which were an inch thick, and bore a purple bloom. 
 There were also a quantity of nettles, which stung me ter- 
 ribly. At last, after climbing up some way, we found n 
 place where we could manage to lie down. In winter this
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 7 to 28. 199 
 
 ravine served for a succession of waterfalls, and the bottom 
 of it was covered with huge pieces of rock jumbled one on 
 another. My place was in a bed of nettles ; but there was 
 no denying my orders, so down I went, taking care to 
 keep my capote well under me. I could not sleep for think- 
 ing of all those that were striving so to obtain my release. 
 
 June 20. Toward the morning weariness caused me to 
 fall asleep, and I did not wake till eight or nine o'clock. 
 It was a lovely morning, and there were myriads of large 
 butterflies flying up and over the ravine, apparently at- 
 tracted by the blossoms of the enormous brambles growing 
 all around us. After I had satisfied my hunger with mouldy 
 bread without any thing to drink (for no water had been 
 brought up last night), I examined the bundle of clothing 
 sent to me, and immediately took off the cotton shirt lent 
 to me by Lorenzo, and put on a flannel one ; the warm un- 
 der-clothing I reserved till we ascended higher up the mount- 
 ains, for now we were low down and close to the cultivated 
 land. I found, to my great delight, a New Testament in 
 Italian, and a copy of Fenelon's Conseils, with various parts 
 marked by my wife for my especial perusal. 
 
 How dear these books, together with my little Prayer- 
 book, became to me during all the weeks I was in the 
 mountains! They were my only companions, and many 
 weary hours did I escape in reading them. I often read 
 the Italian Bible to the men, who would listen and make 
 remarks with the greatest interest ; I also became the proud 
 possessor of a comb, or rather half of one, for Mr. Aynsley 
 thought that if a whole one were sent it would give the 
 idea that I was too well off. I spent some time to-day 
 combing out my hair and beard, which had been guiltless 
 of any thing of the kind for nearly five weeks, I having 
 been afraid to use the filthy comb belonging to the brig-
 
 200 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 ands. I borrowed a little round looking-glass, and found 
 that the bread diet of the last fortnight had filled out my 
 face and made me look much stouter. I determined to 
 make the most of my new acquisitions, and so I put on a 
 clean collar and cravat ; my scarf-pin I had great trouble 
 in saving, for it was- coveted by many, and nothing but the 
 statement that it had been a present from my wife enabled 
 me to keep it. The brigands did not know what to make 
 of the collars of the period, and all kept asking me what 
 the white thing round my neck was. 
 
 Another pair of good strong boots, with extra soles (put 
 on at Naples), were also among my treasures ; but these 
 also I reserved till the ones I was wearing were good for 
 nothing. The five weeks' work had already greatly injured 
 them, but they were still equal to two more nights' walking. 
 I enjoyed the sensation of a clean pair of socks, and I re- 
 served the pair I had worn all the time for the chance of 
 getting them washed ; but in a day or two I was made to 
 give them up, and I afterward found out that they had 
 passed to my persecutor Pepino. I then put all my newly- 
 acquired wealth in a blue checked bag, in which somepasta 
 had come up, and then tied it up in a maccatore. This 
 served ever after as my pillow, and saved me always look- 
 ing for a large stone or piece of a rock, which hitherto I had 
 used for this purpose. 
 
 I had searched all the pockets of the water-proof coat for 
 news from Naples, but nowhere could I find a line, my 
 friends being afraid of the consequences, should the brigands 
 have found it out. I was delighted in finding that several 
 pieces of newspaper, in which my things had been wrapped, 
 had not been taken away, as afterward they invariably did, 
 paper being scarce in the woods, and eagerly sought for the 
 purpose of making cartridges, if stifl 7 enough, or else for light-
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 7 to 28. 201 
 
 ing fires. In one fragment I discovered that affairs in Mex- 
 ico were in a very bad state, and in a piece of the Times I 
 was able to see the present value of various stocks and 
 shares that I possessed. My guardians did not much like 
 my reading these papers, for none of them were able to un- 
 derstand what they were about, and it is contrary to the 
 practices of brigandage to allow captives to read the events 
 of the day. 
 
 (These were the first and last things I received through 
 my whole captivity ; for, though I wrote for various articles 
 particularly shirts which were always sent by my friends, 
 who exerted themselves to the utmost, I never received 
 them, my captors intercepting them and wearing them 
 themselves ; and the shirt which I put on clean on the 20th 
 of June I took off on the 25th of August, having worn it 
 day and night all this time !) 
 
 The two next days passed very quietly, but I suffered 
 very much from exposure to the sun, which was now fear- 
 fully hot at midday ; and no one who has not experienced it 
 on these mountains can imagine the torture I underwent in 
 being without protection from the sun's burning rays. The 
 books which I now had by me helped somewhat to while 
 away the afternoons. "We were very scantily supplied with 
 water, which was only brought up once a day about two 
 hours after sunset. 
 
 12
 
 202 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 DIARY OF MRS. MOENS, JUNE 18 TO JULY 31. 
 
 The second Installment received. Scheme to ascertain the Hostage's 
 own Views. Journey from Salerno to Giffoni. The Fire-eating Cor- 
 poral. Kindness of the Authorities. An English Letter from the 
 Hostage. An Attempt to reduce the Ransom. A third Installment 
 sent to Giffoni. The Palazzo Serracapriola. Signora Q. Her His- 
 tory. Political Persecution. The Questor. His Kindness. The 
 Press. The Rigors of the Troops. The Neapolitan Detective. Re- 
 sult of the Ladies' secret Scheme. Life in Ischia. The Vendetta. 
 
 June 25. SHORTLY before the arrival of H. C at Na- 
 ples, the second installment of 17,000 francs (the amount 
 fixed upon after anxious deliberation) had been sent on to 
 
 Salerno, and carried thence to Giffoni by Signer D , 
 
 whose name I forbear to mention for fear of compromising 
 him with his countrymen,* but whose services to my hus- 
 band can never be forgotten. 
 
 There was now no possibility of doing more till the re- 
 ceipt of this sum was acknowledged, and an appointment 
 made by the brigands for a farther payment. All parties 
 were, however, on the qui vive, and prepared to act at a mo- 
 ment's notice, according to any contingency that might arise. 
 
 * I may here mention that, if the account given of the manner in which 
 my friends negotiated with the band should appear at all vague or mea- 
 gre, it must be understood that the same reason applies as is given for with- 
 holding this gentleman's name. I am naturally unwilling to say very 
 much on so delicate a matter, when the interests of those who befriended 
 me might suffer. W. J. C. M.
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens, June 18 to July 31. 203 
 
 At last, on the 22d, a letter arrived from my husband ac- 
 knowledging the receipt of the second installment of 17,000 
 francs one addressed to Mr. Bonham, and another to me, 
 giving a most distressing account of his situation. My hus- 
 band's friends were all still in great doubt as to whether 
 the brigands would keep their woi'd and let him go, even if 
 they should get all the money they demanded. It was, 
 therefore, very desirable that we should hear from my hus- 
 band himself what he thought of this matter. This, of 
 course, could not be done as long as he was compelled to 
 write in Italian to the brigands' dictation, and therefore an 
 epistle to Manzo was composed, intimating that as my hus- 
 band's friends knew that he could not write Italian, they 
 did not believe that the letters had been written by him ; 
 but that, on the contrary, they had heard he was dead ; and 
 that if Manzo did not allow his prisoner to write in En- 
 glish, the friends would neither send money nor hold any 
 farther communication with the band. Mr. Holme started 
 for Salerno on the 23d of June (followed on the 24th by 
 
 Messrs. Bonham and C ), and, in the hope of reopening 
 
 the communication with the brigands on a more satisfactory 
 footing, and of inducing Signer Yisconti to continue his in- 
 valuable assistance to us, proceeded on the 24th to the 
 house of that gentleman at Gifibni with the letter. 
 
 (Mr. Holme has, in compliance with our request, kindly 
 written an account of this, his first journey to Gifibni, and I 
 have his permission to insert it here : 
 
 " Furnished with letters to the authorities at Gifibni, and 
 with an escort of six troopers of the Cavalleggieri di Ca- 
 serta (through the kindness of General Balegno, command- 
 ant of the province of Salerno), I started early in the morn- 
 ing, accompanied by Signer Michele di Majo (the bi'other 
 of the landlord of the Hotel Vittoria), whose services in be-
 
 204 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 half of the English captive were throughout of the greatest 
 possible value. We were armed with rifle and revolver, and 
 we felt that if Manzo or any of his confreres had any inclina- 
 tion to add our names to the list of ricattati, we, with our 
 escort, should have been able to give them a warm reception. 
 " For the first three miles we followed the road to Paes- 
 tum, which, like all Italian roads in summer, was thickly 
 covered with dust, and we soon experienced the disadvan- 
 tage of having a cavalry escort, for, before we had gone a 
 mile along the road, we were well-nigh smothered ; and if 
 Manzo or his compagni had been on any of the adjacent 
 hills, they might have traced us to Giffoni by the cloud our 
 protectors raised about us. After we left the high road, we 
 turned off inland toward the range of mountains lying to 
 the eastward. The scenery now rapidly improved, and the 
 wonderful difference made by an abundant supply of run- 
 ning water in these fertile regions during the summer 
 months became every moment more apparent. The Indian 
 corn, which, with the tomato, formed the principal articles 
 of cultivation, was in splendid condition ; but what would 
 have warmed the heart of many a hungry peasant had a 
 very opposite effect on my companion (who belonged to the 
 Bersaglieri corps of the Salernitan National Guard) and on 
 our escort. They began to look anxiously around: the 
 crops were so high that a man could easily walk upright 
 through the fields without being seen. To them, the luxu- 
 riant vegetation and the ripening corn were sources of ill- 
 concealed misery, indicating a secure hiding-place for the 
 brigands. ' How can we hope to starve them out,' said the 
 corporal, ' when the. whole country is teeming with food ? 
 Would that it were autumn ! we should then be certain of 
 capturing the band, and of releasing your unfortunate coun- 
 tryman.' On one or two occasions, our gallant corporal,
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens, June 18 to July 31. 205 
 
 alarmed at the appearance of several people among the In- 
 dian corn, stopped the carriage and galloped forward to 
 reconnoitre ; but, being satisfied of their pacific intention, 
 he allowed us to proceed. These little incidents, together 
 with the narration of all kinds of adventures and hair- 
 breadth escapes with the brigands, recounted with great 
 zest by di Majo and the corporal, served to while away the 
 time ; and as the events recounted extended over a space 
 of five years, there was no danger of the supply failing ; a 
 lively imagination, too often, I fancy, supplying what mem- 
 ory denied. Like old people, who are licensed to grumble 
 at the degeneracy of the present age, so my informants bit- 
 terly complained that, in the short space of five years, even 
 the brigands had greatly degenerated : formerly they fought 
 like brave men, and often were the first to attack the troops ; 
 but now they always ran away, and never gave the troops a 
 chance of shooting them a proceeding on their part which, 
 if it shows degeneracy of spirit, certainly shows increase of 
 wisdom, strikingly exemplified in the manner in which Manzo 
 at the present moment holds his own against the troops. 
 
 " But to retui'n to our journey. The corporal was so en- 
 grossed in his narrative that he forgot to keep his usual 
 good look-out, and it made our hearts leap into our mouths 
 when he suddenly shouted ' Halt !' and unslung his carbine, 
 pointing to several heads peering above the Indian corn. 
 Our coachman nearly brought his horses down by the sud- 
 den jerk with which he attempted to pull up; and, not 
 knowing exactly what to do, we all looked anxiously in the 
 direction the corporal was pointing. 'It is nothing,' he 
 said at last, as, looking most crestfallen, he dug his spurs 
 into his horse's flanks ; ' I took those countrymen in the In- 
 dian corn to be brigands.' As they stared at us with that 
 stolid look which these country people generally put on
 
 206 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 whenever they see troops, he gave vent to his disappoint- 
 ed feelings in language which, if pure Italian, was certainly 
 not elegant giving it as his opinion that if they were not 
 brigands by profession, they would have no objection to try 
 their hands at it when occasion offered. 
 
 " After this occurrence, our valiant corporal subsided into 
 a sulky silence ; and what with the reaction which followed 
 the excitement attending these little incidents, the dust, and 
 the heat, we all felt tired and anxious to reach our journey's 
 end. 
 
 " In about two and a half hours from the time we had 
 left Salerno we reached Giffoni. Our entrance created quite 
 a sensation among the villagers, who rushed out to see the 
 ' Inglese' who had come to ransom his countryman. I had 
 hardly been an hour in the place before it was positively 
 affirmed by the knowing ones that they had seen the money 
 I had brought, and that it was at least 30,000 ducats ! The 
 authorities received me most kindly, and gave me all the 
 information they could. The military were at that time 
 very sanguine of success ; and the commanding officer, Cap- 
 tain Salsa (whose kindness throughout I shall ever grateful- 
 ly remember), confided to me that, from information re- 
 ceived, he fully expected the band would be taken that 
 night, and that I should, in every probability, take Mr. 
 Moens back in triumph to Salerno next morning. Con- 
 tinued subsequent failures soon made me skeptical when- 
 ever similar expectations were expressed ; but on this oc- 
 casion, participating in the hopes of the worthy captain, I 
 felt sorely disappointed when, the next morning, I saw the 
 troops returning wearied and disheartened, after a hard 
 night's march ; and it did not require to hear the officer's 
 report to know that they had been unsuccessful. I arrived 
 at Salerno on the afternoon of the 25th.")
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens, June 18 to July 31. 207 
 
 I should here mention that the letters which H. C 
 
 obtained at Florence were without delay delivered to the 
 authorities at Salerno, and that these important officials in- 
 variably treated all my husband's countrymen, who were 
 acting for him, with the greatest kindness ; the general con- 
 stantly placing an escort at the disposal of any of them who 
 wished to leave Salerno for Giffoni, and the prefect also do- 
 ing every thing in his power to assist them. 
 
 July 4. After this we had again to go through a period 
 of harassing anxiety and suspense, until the brigands' an- 
 swer was received, every one chafing with vexation at the 
 enforced inactivity from which there was no escape. The 
 
 general, too, who had, at the request of Messrs. C and 
 
 Holme, renewed the pass for a limited time only, was evi- 
 dently disinclined to extend the privilege farther, and we 
 were therefore exceedingly anxious that the messenger from 
 Giffoni should obtain an answer before it was too late. 
 
 At last, on June 30th, arrived a letter from my husband, 
 dated the 29th, in which he had been allowed to write a 
 few lines in English, thus showing that the plan had suc- 
 ceeded. 
 
 The bulk of this letter was, like his former letters, written 
 in Italian, with a statement that the captain had allowed him 
 to add a few words in English, which were as follows : 
 " When I write like this (upright), it is from me ; when 
 slanting, it is dictated. Where are my friends ? Am I de- 
 serted ? Send money every week, if you can. I have been 
 very ill with diarrhoea and The food is so bad nothing 
 but scraps of bread and cheese. I am free the moment the 
 money is paid. God bless you, dearest. He sends this 
 trial for our good. They think this country pays the money, 
 and so will have all. I have not told them I can pay." 
 
 The value of these few lines in English can not be over-
 
 208 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 estimated. They not only gave us the clew to the real 
 meaning of all future letters, but also relieved my advisers 
 here from a great amount of responsibility. 
 
 After the receipt of this letter, Messrs. Bonham, Aynsley, 
 
 and C thought that they could no longer hesitate to pay 
 
 as large a sum as could be safely sent up into the mountains 
 at one time. 
 
 The brigands, having intimated that they would be at a 
 certain spot on Tuesday, the 4th of July, prepared to receive 
 
 money, Messrs. Holme and proceeded to Salerno on 
 
 the 1st, with 26,400 francs, being 10,000 in addition to the 
 sum which had been brought back from Salerno on the 25th 
 of June. 
 
 The brigands' letters had all along shown that they be- 
 lieved the Italian government were going to pay eventually, 
 and had refused to reduce their demand, on the ground that 
 this being so, the captive's means were out of the question 
 altogether. My husband in his last letter also alluded to 
 this, and expressed a wish that some steps should be taken 
 by the authorities to eradicate this notion from the minds 
 of his captors. 
 
 On arriving at Salerno, the two gentlemen, bearing this in 
 mind, and with the view of making another effort to reduce 
 the demand of the brigands, visited the general and the 
 prefect at Salerno, asking the latter whether his govern- 
 ment would pay, and requesting him to answer the question 
 by letter. This the prefect did, giving them an official let- 
 ter* addressed to me, not only repudiating, on the part of 
 the Italian government, all intention of paying any of the 
 ransom, but also intimating that the government would do 
 all in its power to prevent money or provisions being sent 
 by me or any one else to the brigands. 
 
 * Which will be found in the Appendix, C.
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens, June IS to July 31. 209 
 
 Mr. Holme returned to Naples on the 2d, leaving the 
 
 24,600 francs in charge of Mr. C and Signor D , 
 
 who carried it on to Giflbni on the 3d, with the prefect's 
 letter to me, and one from Mr. Bonham to my husband to 
 the same effect. 
 
 (Now came another period of suspense, destined, alas ! to 
 be of far longer duration than any which we had undergone 
 hitherto, for, as it turned out afterward, the troops kept such 
 a vigilant watch on the brigands after this that the third in- 
 stallment of money lay at Signor Visconti's house for many 
 weeks, and we did not hear of its receipt, or of the effect of 
 the letters on the brigands, till the 9th of August. What 
 effect the letter of the prefect had will appear hereafter in 
 the course of my husband's narrative.) 
 
 July 15. About this time I wrote to Signor Visconti, 
 thanking him for his exertions in my husband's behalf, and 
 I have since received a very kind reply from him.* 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Aynsley left Naples on the 28th of June to 
 spend a few days in Rome, and my brother-in-law advised 
 me to leave the Hotel de Geneve for a pension, as he thought 
 it would be more cheerful for me, the life I was leading 
 at the hotel before his arrival having been so extremely 
 solitary, and having affected my health very seriously, for 
 my friends had thought it advisable, for the reasons I have 
 mentioned before, that English residents should not be en- 
 couraged to come and see me. I therefore moved from the 
 hotel to the Palazzo Serracapriola, in the Riviera di Chiaja, 
 a short time before my brother-in-law left for England, 
 which he was compelled to do, after waiting as long as he 
 possibly could to see the effect of the last letters and payment. 
 
 * I have ventured to give a translation of Signor Visconti's reply in the 
 Appendix, D, to show how considerately and courteously he behaved to 
 my wife at this time of trial. W. J. C. M.
 
 210 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 I well remember accompanying him to the steamer to see 
 the last of him. I could not but wonder whether I should 
 ever again be starting with my husband for dear old En- 
 gland ! Alas ! I had but too much reason then to fear that 
 this happy time would never come for me. 
 
 How I vowed mentally never to leave home again, if we 
 but once got safe back !* 
 
 The Bay of Naples looked its very best as the vessel 
 steamed away, but I was too sad to enjoy its beauties while 
 the ship remained in sight. 
 
 I watched it with a heavy heart, and when it at last dis- 
 appeared from my view, I felt the loneliness of my position, 
 
 which seemed to be more desolate than ever. H. C 
 
 had tried hard to comfort me at the last with the hope that 
 the letters sent from Salerno on the 3d of July, with the 
 1000, would produce the desired effect; but I had met 
 with so many disappointments that I could not bring my- 
 self to think that any thing good would come of the schemes 
 of my friends. 
 
 I have now really felt what " hope deferred" means, and 
 
 * In March I copied into my diary the following paragraph from 
 "Geoffrey Crayon:" "A prosperous life passed at home has little inci- 
 dent for narrative; it is only the poor devils who are tossed about the 
 world that are the true heroes of story. It is difficult to determine between 
 lots in life, where each is attended with its peculiar discontents. He who 
 never leaves his home repines at his monotonous existence, and envies 
 the traveler, whose life is a constant tissue of wondrous adventure ; while 
 he who is tossed about the world looks back with many a sigh to the safe 
 and quiet shore which he has abandoned. I can not help thinking, how- 
 ever, that the man that stays at home, and cultivates the comforts and 
 pleasures daily springing up around him, stands the best chance of happi- 
 ness." To me, then, these observations appeared to be true; and, now 
 that I am at the end of my travels, I see no reason to change my opinion. 
 A. M.
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens, June 18 to July 31. 211 
 
 how it " inaketh the heart sick." I try my best to cast all 
 my care on God, but real grief is very different to imagina- 
 ry sorrow. 
 
 I like my new home infinitely better than the hotel. I 
 have had the good fortune to make the acquaintance of a 
 
 Roman lady, the Siguora Q , who has been obliged to 
 
 leave Rome on account of her political opinions. Her fa- 
 ther, a well-known avvocato, was in prison there for five 
 years because he was rather too liberal in his ideas. This 
 lady also had been imprisoned herself for five months in one 
 of the dark prisons in Rome, and was liberated eventually 
 without a trial, through her own presence of mind. She 
 one day received a visit from a gentleman, who brought her 
 a letter of introduction from a great friend, with a request 
 that she would receive the bearer for a few days as her 
 guest. The bearer was a great friend of Garibaldi, and had 
 come to Rome to find out whether the people were ready 
 for a revolution. He staid at her house some days, but was 
 at last arrested and thrown into prison by the Papal au- 
 thorities. His friends wrote to her to inquire what had be- 
 come of him, and she sent them a letter by the driver of a 
 diligence informing them of his arrest. The letter happened 
 to contain a remark to the effect that "the worst enemy 
 Rome had w r as the emperor." One morning, shortly after 
 this, she was in bed, w r hen the police came into her room, 
 and obliged her to rise and dress in their presence, and then 
 carried her off to prison. Day after day a priest of high 
 rank came to examine her, to try and find out from her an- 
 swers something to criminate her. He once asked her a 
 question, an answer to which might have injured her guest, 
 who had been thrown into prison, but she had the presence 
 of mind to evade answering by pleading extreme illness, 
 and saying that the pain in her head was too violent for her
 
 212 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 to think much. The doctor was sent for, and, happily for 
 her, he told her questioner 1 that the siguora was in a burn- 
 ing fever, and must be left in tranquillity for some days to 
 come. The excitement and fear had really brought on a se- 
 vere attack of fever. During the week in which she was 
 freed from these inquisitorial visits, she succeeded in get- 
 ting information of her guest's escape. This information 
 was conveyed to her in a packet of tea by means of one 
 word written on a tiny piece of paper. She now knew that 
 he was safe, and on the next examination she felt no hesita- 
 tion in answering the question freely, and she was liberated. 
 It is sajd that the words in her letter saved her " the 
 worst enemy Rome has is the emperor," for the priests are 
 no longer partial to the emperor. The police, however, did 
 not leave her in peace ; they paid constant visits to her 
 house, looked into every room and closet, and even ripped 
 open the cushions and pillows in search of letters. This 
 state of constant espionage was so unpleasant to her, that 
 she and her husband left Rome and settled in Naples. 
 
 The signora was extremely kind to me, and was always 
 ready to accompany me in my visits to the questor, which 
 about this time became rather frequent. She thought that 
 this officer might be of great assistance in procuring the lib- 
 eration of my husband, and she introduced me to him ac- 
 cordingly. He was a personal friend of hers. 
 
 We have requested the editors of the different Italian pa- 
 pers* to insert paragraphs in their papers in furtherance of 
 
 the plan set on foot by H. C and Mr. Holme at Salerno, 
 
 to the effect that the brigands may believe that the Italian 
 
 * A letter having appeared in the London Times stating that my hus- 
 band was a "member of the Stock Exchange," one of the Neapolitan 
 papers put him down as a "large shareholder in the Bank of England 1" 
 A.M.
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens,June 18 to July 31. 213 
 
 and English governments have both positively refused to 
 pay any of the ransom. We hope this will reach the brig- 
 ands, and that they will reduce their exorbitant claims. 
 
 The 24,600 francs (i.e., about 1000) taken to Salerno by 
 
 Messrs. Holme and C on the 1st of July, and carried on 
 
 thence to Giffoni on the 3d, is still lying with the letters at 
 Signer Visconti's house, the vigilance of the troops having 
 hitherto prevented the brigands from coming to fetch it 
 away. The peasants are suffering more than ever from the 
 severe measures employed by the authorities to starve out 
 the brigands. The officers complain that their want of suc- 
 cess is caused by our messengers carrying information to 
 the band with regard to the disposition of the various de- 
 tachments ; consequently, the strictest orders have been sent 
 from Florence that no messenger is to be allowed a pass, 
 and any peasant found carrying a letter or food is ordered to 
 be shot immediately, without trial. 
 
 July 16. No news of my husband; it is now nearly two 
 months, and I seem to have made very little progress toward 
 his liberation ; affairs have come to a dead lock. The only 
 answer I get from the general is that it is an affair of police. 
 I am determined to go to the questor and ask his advice. 
 A messenger must be found, and as I hear the questor is an 
 extremely clever, kind man, he may perhaps find some means 
 of helping me. 
 
 July 17. I went to the questor, who advised me to go 
 myself to Salerno, and try and find out the brother of Man- 
 zo, and bribe him to go again. The questor will send a de- 
 tective with me ; but, for better security, the man is to hold 
 no communication with me. I am not even to know who 
 he is. I am simply to let the questor know by what train I 
 go. The detective is never to lose sight of me ; and if I 
 prevail on Manzo's brother to take my letter, I am to drop
 
 214 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 a handkerchief from my window at a certain hour. The de- 
 tective will then attach himself to the messenger, and follow 
 him every where, and thus find out the channel of communi- 
 cation. 
 
 On the 18th I started accordingly for Salerno, accompa- 
 nied by a kind friend, Mrs. T , an English lady, whose 
 
 acquaintance I made at the pemion. We left Naples in the 
 evening, to avoid the extreme heat. 
 
 Mrs. T 's quick eyes soon found out our detective, a 
 
 man dressed as an Italian peasant. We noticed the same 
 man lounging at the door of the hotel at Salerno ; and when 
 we took a walk the next day, he followed us. In fact, the 
 " secret" scheme was carried out in so open and transparent 
 a manner, that one evening, in the dark, we called the man 
 behind a cart, and told him every one would certainly sus- 
 pect him if he thus dogged our footsteps, and we arranged 
 that he should only take his station before the hotel at cer- 
 tain hours after sunset, when we would communicate with 
 him, if we wished it. 
 
 I sent for Manzo's brother, who is an employe on the rail- 
 way, and bears a fair character. He is a young man with 
 a plain countenance. I felt very much on seeing the broth- 
 er of the man who had caused all my grief, and I implored 
 him with tears to take a letter to my husband, offering him 
 fifty pounds if he would do so ; but neither tears, entreaties, 
 nor bribes could prevail on him to go. It certainly would 
 have been risking his life, for, if discovered taking a message 
 to the band, he would, as I have already said, have been shot 
 on the spot. We could find no one willing to risk his life ; 
 and all that came of our magnificent plan was the imprison- 
 ment of the poor detective by his brother police-officers, 
 who arrested him as a suspicious character ! 
 
 Finding I could do nothing at Salerno, I returned to Na-
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens, June 18 to July 31. 215 
 
 pies, and bad another interview with the questor, who al- 
 ways treated me with the utmost kindness, and put aside 
 all other business to listen to mine, though both his large 
 ante-rooms were crowded with people of all ranks waiting 
 to see him; police emissaries and telegrams arriving and 
 departing at every moment, and a continuous stream of ap- 
 plicants pouring up and down the broad staircase of his 
 palazzo. Whenever I sent in my card I was admitted, and 
 listened to with the greatest patience. He now suggest- 
 ed sending emissaries to Rome, to do all that was possible 
 there. They were sent, but this plan failed, like the rest. 
 
 I forgot to say that before I left Salerno I was told that a 
 rich proprietor had offered to show the place where the brig- 
 ands passed through his grounds, and to allow the troops to 
 lie in ambush for them there ; but, unfortunately, this gentle- 
 man's servant having quarreled with the troops, he refused 
 to assist the latter in any way. Afterward the troops, when 
 searching at the spot, found scraps of paper with English 
 upon them, torn up by my husband but a short time before. 
 
 "When at Salerno, on the 19th of July, I was summoned to 
 Naples by telegraph, and started off, hoping and praying for 
 good news ; but when I arrived, overcome by the intense 
 heat and excitement, it was a cruel disappointment to find 
 that it was only to write another of the many useless letters 
 I had already sent to the captain of the band. During the 
 next week I suffered terribly from constant anxiety, till at 
 last, on the 22d, I became so ill that my friends advised im- 
 mediate change of air, and I accepted the invitation of my 
 
 kind friend, Mrs. T , to stay with her at Ischia. So we 
 
 embarked together on the little wretched steamer that runs 
 once a day between Naples and Ischia, across the bay. It 
 was crowded with people, nearly all of them peasants ; the 
 sea was very rough, and every one was ill. The manner of
 
 216 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 Italian peasants under these circumstances is sufficient of it- 
 self to cause illness in an Englishwoman ; and when I made 
 complaint to the captain, he gave me a very vague answer, 
 remarking that the Neapolitans were a dirty people, because 
 they never traveled, whereas the English, on the contrary, 
 were always traveling, and that thus their manners were 
 improved ! 
 
 After three hours on the sea, we arrived at the lovely lit- 
 tle island of Ischia. The fishermen's wives and children ran 
 
 out of their cottages to welcome my friend Mrs. T back 
 
 to her island ; we were escorted to her house by them, all 
 their faces beaming welcome. The house was beautifully 
 situated on rising ground, with a magnificent view of the 
 sea and the Bay of Lacco. I was never tired of walking on 
 the roof of the house, to look at the beautiful panorama be- 
 fore me ; I could see the Bay of Naples, Mount Vesuvius, 
 the coast beyond the island of Procida, with its large white 
 castle, and the Isle of Capri. 
 
 No words can describe the beauties of Ischia ; it is such a 
 lovely little island, and contains no brigands ! I could enjoy 
 long rambles in the country, without the unpleasant feeling 
 that men were watching me to carry me off for ransom. In 
 the centre of the island is a very finely-shaped mountain 
 Monte Epomeo whose sides are covered with chestnut 
 groves, vineyards, and tomato fields. I had a long walk 
 
 with Mrs. T 's children through vineyards reminding me 
 
 of our hop-gardens. We were allowed to pick the bunch- 
 es of grapes, as the owner of the fields was with us. They 
 hung temptingly over our heads, and it was a curious sight 
 to an English eye to see the immense profusion of a fruit 
 which in England is rare enough to be considered a luxury. 
 If any one wishes to enjoy fruit, and scenery, and climate, 
 lie should visit Ischia in September or October. October 
 is the time of the vintage, and the weather then is not too
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens, June 18 to July 31. 217 
 
 hot for walking expeditions. Even in the hottest season, how- 
 ever, the air is constantly refreshed by the cool sea-breezes. 
 
 On the 28th I was summoned again to Naples by tele- 
 gram ; I had first to embark from Lacco in a little boat to 
 catch the steamer which starts from Casamicciola. My kind 
 friends put me under the care of a poor woman going to 
 Naples to see her husband, who had been in prison there 
 for seven months, waiting to be tried for an offense of which 
 every one considered him innocent. 
 
 The poor woman told me her husband's story. Each 
 fisherman is obliged to have a document from government 
 authorizing him to carry on his trade. When the new gov- 
 ernment was established, the old documents or " books," as 
 they are called, were called in, and new ones given out. 
 Singi, my companion's husband, applied to the syndic of his 
 village for his book. This syndic, a very bad man, obtained 
 it easily from the maritime consul, with a clause in it stating 
 that as Singi was a married man with children, he was ex- 
 empt from military service ; but before he would give the 
 book to Singi, he demanded an exorbitant sum, which the 
 poor man was unable to pay. The syndic then sold the 
 book for 150 lire; and Singi, having no book, was thrown 
 into prison on the charge of selling it, and had been there for 
 seven months, leaving his family without any means of sup- 
 port. The poor woman was taking some little present for 
 her husband, and had in her arms a dying babe, yet she was 
 happier than I was, for she knew that her husband was living, 
 and where he was, and was permitted to visit him, whereas 
 I did not know whether my husband was alive or dead, and 
 I was beginning to lose all hope of ever seeing him again. 
 She cried bitterly as she told her sad story, and I could not 
 help mingling my tears with hers. 
 
 My visit to Naples was a fruitless one ; there was no 
 
 K
 
 218 English Travelers and Italian Brigands, 
 
 news of my husband, nothing could be done, and I returned 
 to Ischia. I was strongly impressed with the fact, which I 
 was assured of on all sides, that the great reason why no one 
 will betray the brigands is fear of the consequences to the 
 informer. 
 
 All over Southern Italy thus the vendetta holds sway, 
 and fear of suffering from the revenge of the malefactors' 
 relatives completely paralyzes the hands of justice. I 
 heard a story in the island which strongly illustrates this. 
 A poor woman living alone, with only a little dog as a com- 
 panion, one day cut some grass for her goat from a neigh- 
 bor's field. The man was angry ; they quarreled at last ; 
 he stabbed, but did not kill her. Fearful of the conse- 
 quences, he dragged her shrieking through three or four 
 fields to a precipice, down which he threw her ; he then 
 took a circuitous route of two or three miles to the foot 
 of the precipice, and finding her still breathing, he literally 
 crushed her with an enormous stone ; he then dug a hole 
 and buried her, and covered the place with branches of 
 trees. The poor creature was missed ; two or three women 
 had heard her shrieks, and had seen her dragged through the 
 fields, but no one tried to save her no one would breathe 
 a word as to what they had seen, and her relatives sought 
 for her in vain. One day her brother, with her little dog, 
 was walking near her grave, when the animal whined, 
 howled, and refused to go on. The brother tried to force 
 him to follow, but in vain ; the dog stood howling at a par- 
 ticular spot. This excited the man's curiosity; he pulled 
 aside the branches, saw that the earth had been newly 
 turned, dug it up, and discovered the dead body of his sis- 
 ter. No one would give evidence against the murderer for 
 fear of the vengeance of his relatives, and he still walks 
 about unpunished in Ischia ! This murder was committed 
 onlv a few weeks before I visited the island.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 21 to 30. 219 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 DlAEY OF MB. MOENS, JUNE 21 TO 30. 
 
 On the Move again. "Without excess of Luggage. The depot of Provi- 
 sions. We join Cerino's Band again. Effect of the Arrival of H. M. 
 S. Magicienne on the Amount of the Ransom. A new Hat. "Brig- 
 ands supplied" by London Hatters. The Charcoal-burners. The 
 Troops again in Sight. Sheep-stealing. Meat once a Fortnight. 
 Scope's Treatment of me. Pavone's History. Generoso at Death's 
 Door. Cold. I have to Write more terrible Letters. I am left with 
 Eight or Ten of the Band. Harsh Treatment. Tantalizing View. 
 Wine and Rosolio. I become very 111. Andrea's Heart softens. Let- 
 ters from my Friends, but no more Money. My Ears in Danger. I 
 am made to Write again. Cerino's Band go off with the Letters. 
 
 ON the evening of the 21st of June we were startled by 
 hearing signals from the mountains above, and we immedi- 
 ately got ready to join the new-comers ; they proved to be 
 three of the band from Manzo, who had been sent to tell 
 us that there was a large increase of troops in the neigh- 
 borhood, and that we were to join him without a moment's 
 delay : this was very provoking, for a supply of bacon, fruit, 
 and wine, together with several shirts, and among them nay 
 only change, which had been " sent to the wash," were to 
 arrive this very night ; but there was no disobeying the 
 orders, and I never saw my garment again. 
 
 After the long rest of a fortnight, without the slightest 
 exercise, and always lying on the ground, I found the great- 
 est difficulty for the first half hour in keeping up with my 
 companions. The road lay up hill, through the thickest
 
 220 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 underwood, and at times I was perfectly unable to go on 
 from utter want of breath. Lorenzo, who usually treated me 
 well, was very savage from the loss of the expected clean 
 shirts and the provisions ; for when a peasant is commis- 
 sioned to get any thing, he always insists on being paid 
 first at exorbitant prices, a ducat for two rotoli of bread 
 about sixpennyworth and every thing else in proportion. 
 Twenty Napoleons had been left with him for our expenses; 
 these and fifteen more had been spent for the expenses of 
 about six men in a fortnight ; this will give an idea of the 
 rate at which these men live. At least four fifths of all the 
 money that is extorted from their captives goes to the 
 peasants, and the other fifth is spent in the shops in the 
 towns. No wonder all the peasants encourage brigandage 
 and cry up the cause of Francis II., imagining that the brig- 
 ands fight for him, because they are pursued and hunted 
 down by the soldiers of Victor Emmanuel. Nothing will 
 stop the system but levying the ransoms on the districts 
 where the captures take place. 
 
 When we came to the store-house, we found several more 
 of the band, who immediately attacked the two sacks of 
 bread we had collected. Justi told me to put some in my 
 pocket, for I had a very long walk before me, and the band 
 we were to join would have nothing with them. Scope was 
 in a great rage at my pocketing any thing, but some of the 
 others took my part, and I was able to retain my spoil. 
 
 I had now regained my powers of walking ; after some 
 hours we gained the top of the hill, walking in the moonlight 
 by the side of the noisy stream, with waterfalls in many 
 places. On our left rose high mountains clothed with wood, 
 and on the right there were two ridges of unequal height, 
 covered with the same bright green, while in front rose 
 towering mountains, with tops of all conceivable shapes. I
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 21 to 30. 221 
 
 felt well and strong, and if I ever enjoyed any walk while 
 under restraint, it certainly was this night's tramp. 
 
 When we arrived at the top of the pass, instead of turn- 
 ing to the left as we did before, we went straight on, de- 
 scending the mountain through dense forests, till at last we 
 came to an open space where the charcoal-burners were 
 hard at work, the ground being strewed with chips of wood. 
 All at once we fell in with Pepino and his band, who looked 
 most miserable, having met with a disgrazia^ as they termed 
 it. The very day after they had left the mountain, where 
 Visconti had been set free, the soldiers had discovered their 
 resting-place, and they had to take to their heels, leaving be- 
 hind them all their belongings two new camp-kettles, the 
 leathern flasks that I had so often drunk out of, and all their 
 capotes, among them the two splendid ones of fine blue cloth 
 belonging to Pepino and Doniella, while on Pepino's was 
 buttoned the capuce that he had snatched off my head. I 
 told him that it was a judgment on him for having robbed 
 me, at which all round laughed most heartily. They had 
 fared most miserably ever since; they greeted me, however, 
 in a cheerful way, being glad to see me well, for all expected 
 that somehow or other the Inglese would find the money 
 that they demanded. 
 
 The coming of the man-of-war to Salerno, and the number 
 of troops that were looking after us, made them naturally 
 think that Mr. Aynsley and I were of importance, and noth- 
 ing that was said or written to them could upset their idea 
 that we were the joyful possessors of two million ducats. 
 One of them was sent off to Manzo, who, with some of the 
 others, were sitting near a fire in a hollow where it could 
 not be seen. Immediately after this Manzo came up and 
 took my wide-awake off my head, replacing it by the one 
 that was on his head ; this rather disturbed my peace of
 
 222 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 mind, for I thought of the new family that would in all 
 probability be introduced to the one that had already taken 
 possession of me. He told me he did not consider the hat 
 I had been wearing suitable to a person of my distinction, 
 and that he had got one of the best that could be found in 
 Naples specially for me, at the cost of a Napoleon. It 
 certainly was a very good one, of a brown color, with a 
 tall crown and wide brim ; one of the band doubled in the 
 crown, pressing in each side with his hands, and then gave 
 it me back, telling me that that was the way signori always 
 wore them. I looked at the label inside, and, to my aston- 
 ishment, found that it had been made by Christy, the cele- 
 brated hatter in Gracechurch Street, London, whose estab- 
 lishment I always visit when in want of a covering for my 
 head at home. I told the brigands that it was un cappello 
 Inglese del mio proprio cappellaio : this amused them im- 
 mensely, and they all came one by one to compliment me on 
 my improved appearance. One of them lent me his little 
 looking-glass, in order that I might " admire myself," as he 
 expressed it. 
 
 It was now about nine o'clock ; but when I inquired 
 where we were to stop for the night, I was told that molto 
 cammino was in store for me, and that we were to walk all 
 night. A short time after starting again we came to where 
 the charcoal-burners were engaged in their occupation. 
 There were several enormous round piles of wood, covered 
 with damp earth firmly beaten down. From fissures in the 
 piles a suffocating smoke was issuing, and the ground on 
 the lower side was quite soppy with the wood spirit and 
 tarry matter that was running from them. A little way 
 off were the wood huts of the carbonari, which are con- 
 structed of straight pieces of wood stuck in the ground and 
 then bent to a point at the top, a span being left for an en-
 
 iJiary of Mr. Moms, June 21 to 30. 223 
 
 trance. There seemed to be two or three men in each hut, 
 which were all visited in succession, in order that all pro- 
 visions that could be spared might be taken. We finished 
 all their water, the wooden barrels being passed from one 
 to the other, and the water drunk through the bung-holes. 
 I was always obliged to get as much down my throat as I 
 could in as short a space of time as possible, for they always 
 took the barrel away from me in a moment. 
 
 In the entrance of each hut was a large wood fire, in the 
 embers of which the inmates were just about making pizza, 
 that is, a mixture of Indian-corn meal and water, baked for 
 about a quarter of an hour. Manzo bargained for this and 
 one of the water-barrels, giving for them half a Napoleon. 
 I was taken to a little distance off while the pizza was being 
 made, and managed to get a little sleep ; but we were soon 
 marching along again in single file, the line extending a 
 considerable distance. We kept ascending all night in a 
 northerly direction, and toward the morning arrived at a 
 large tract of level land near the top of the mountain. It 
 was a great treat, walking on the smooth turf, after having 
 had to force our way through the lower branches of the 
 trees, in the dense woods with which nearly all these mount- 
 ains are covered. The brigands were all very tired, for we 
 had been walking since seven o'clock, up hill nearly all the 
 time. I always found that I could keep it up for a num- 
 ber of hours with less fatigue than they could, while they, 
 on the other hand, were quicker and more agile for a short 
 time, especially on the rough ground. Our halting-place 
 was in the midst of some high heather, afactione was called, 
 sentinels set, and we were all asleep in a short time. 
 
 About midday the troops were seen on the top of a 
 mountain not more than a mile off, and we had to hide close 
 in some clumps of trees. To my disgust, I discovered on
 
 224 English Travelers and Italian Jiriyands. 
 
 the ground, in a place where Manzo had been sitting, sev- 
 eral scraps of paper that had been torn up, that had formed 
 part of a letter from Mr. Aynsley ; but I could not make 
 any thing of it. They had been busy making cartridges, 
 and his letter had gone in this way ; it was most provoking 
 to think that the wretches had received letters for me which 
 they had not given me, but I suppose that it having been 
 written in English was the cause. 
 
 "We could not remain here because of the troops, so two 
 hours before sunset we descended the mountain through 
 the woods, and when it w r as dark, crossed over the culti- 
 vated valley to the mountains opposite. We walked through 
 the growing crops till we came to a stream, where we all 
 slaked our thirst. Here, to the amusement of all, old Sen- 
 tonio fell down into the water. We now passed along a 
 good mule-road, and then began to ascend the terraces of 
 earth to higher ground, without having seen a house or hu- 
 man being. Great caution was exercised ; notwithstand- 
 ing some of the band being always in advance, I was kept 
 in the rear, as usual, with only three or four behind me. 
 At last, toward twelve o'clock, we got into the woods 
 again, and at about two came to a suitable place, where we 
 stopped till the next morning. Some of the baud had been 
 left in the plain to look after food, and in the middle of the 
 day two peasants came up with bread and a quantity of 
 cherries. During the day we heard the tingling of the 
 sheep-bells, but could not at first see the flock. At last I 
 pointed it out to them, on the other side of the valley, near 
 the place we had come from, and it was determined to send 
 over to get two sheep in the evening. Justi and four oth- 
 ers started off, and returned toward the morning with the 
 carcasses of the sheep hanging on their backs; they report- 
 ed that they had had great difficulty in getting them, there
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 21 to 30. 225 
 
 having been no less than twelve persons at the place where 
 the sheep were collected for the night, and these had stout- 
 ly refused to let the brigands have any ; but Justi and the 
 others pointed their guns at them, and threatened to shoot 
 them all unless two were killed immediately, and of course 
 they got their way. They were cooked at once, and I en- 
 joyed the change of diet very much, for I had not tasted 
 meat for more than a fortnight. A hatchet was also ob- 
 tained from the shepherds, but during the day there was a 
 dispute about the price paid for it, and Rocco, in a rage, 
 took it up, and, after trying to break it against a stone, 
 which he struck several times as hard as he could, threw it 
 some distance into the thick underwood, where they were 
 unable to find it. 
 
 It was a noisy day, for gambling produced the usual 
 quarrels, and toward the afternoon one of the band let his 
 gun off by accident ; the captain was always in a great 
 rage at this, and no wonder, for it was nearly sure to bring 
 the troops. 
 
 In the morning we started again, spending several hours 
 in ascending the mountain, and at last came to a terrace 
 near the top, with several caves ; we halted here for some 
 time, I enjoying the view toward the west, being able to 
 see the whole province with the sea behind it. All at once 
 I was amazed at seeing all the band go mad, as I thought ; 
 their game seemed to be that all should vie, one with the 
 other, who could roll the largest piece of rock over the 
 edge, so that they might go crashing down the mountain 
 side. This was done as a signal to those left foraging in 
 the plain ; we could hear the rocks rolling down far below 
 us, making a great noise ; it had the desired effect, for in an 
 hour or two the party below came up, but with their pock- 
 ets empty. We slept here half the night, and then contin- 
 
 K 2
 
 226 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 ued our course, passing along the narrowest ledges round 
 the shoulder of the mountain ; we now came to a large lev- 
 el tract of grass-land studded with clumps of trees. 
 
 It was quite light enough to enjoy the English park-like 
 scenery, with the bare rocks at the top of the mountain 
 rising in front. The glades were of the finest short grass, 
 with a quantity of a pretty yellow flower growing abund- 
 antly. We passed some baraque recently made, which 
 much annoyed the captain, and a halt was called while a 
 council was held, and the ground examined for the foot- 
 prints of the soldiers. We were on Monte Marano, the 
 highest mountain of the province, and had expected to find 
 it quite safe and free from the soldiers. I told them that it 
 was now all the safer, for if the forces had passed them re- 
 cently it would be some time before they came again. 
 They rather agreed with me, but I was told to be silent, 
 and not to listen to their talk. I told them it amused me ; 
 but as they talked such bad Italian, I could not make much 
 of it. On we went again, and at about seven o'clock ar- 
 rived at a place surrounded by very high trees, and the 
 ground was very wet, but down I was made to lie all the 
 same. A fire was soon blazing, for it was intensely cold at 
 the great height at which we were. Two were sent off at 
 once to get some water from a fountain higher up the 
 mountain, and sentinels set in every direction. 
 
 June 23. In about two hours the captain ordered a 
 change of place, and we retraced our steps, crossing the 
 tracks made by dragging the timber along through the 
 woods ; we then passed over another dry " nullah," and re- 
 tired to a corner of a glade from whence the track was vis- 
 ible. Sentinels were set, one being sent a quarter of a mile 
 off where he could view the country in another direction. I 
 was sent off (under the charge of Par one and that demon
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 21 to 30. 227 
 
 Scope, who always ill-treated me) to some rising ground 
 about two hundred yards off, so that, should there be any 
 danger, I might be hurried off while the main part of the 
 band covered our retreat. I had not been here long before 
 the tinkling of bells told us that a flock of sheep was ap- 
 proaching, and a detachment was sent off in order to secure 
 some mutton. They returned in about half an hour, bring- 
 ing the shepherds with them, who were very unwilling to 
 part with their sheep, because there was a report that sev- 
 eral shepherds had been put into prison for having let the 
 brigands take their sheep. But what can these men do ? 
 If they will not sell their sheep, they are soon taken from 
 them ; and should the shepherds give any information, then- 
 unprotected position makes them to be easy victims to the 
 vengeance of the brigands. 
 
 Manzo was unwilling to make these men enemies, for it 
 was a new part of the country, and he intended stopping 
 here some time. He said he was willing to pay a fair price, 
 but all grumbled when they found that thirty-five ducats 
 was demanded for three sheep. This was very nearly 2 
 a-head, but the shepherds would not let them go for less, for 
 they were of a peculiar large breed, and much valued. The 
 flock passed close to where I was lying, but the shepherds 
 were made to go round, so that I could not see them. Two 
 of the sheep were immediately killed and put into the pot, 
 and within an hour the meat was turned out cooked. It 
 was very tantalizing to see them all eating the best parts, 
 while we were left without any. At last Scope went to get 
 some, and he returned, carrying in his hands what was sup- 
 posed to be our share that was, for me, Pavone, and him- 
 self; but when it came, Pavone and I became indignant, 
 there being hardly a mouthful apiece. I had seen the greedy 
 wretch eating as fast as he could on his way to us. Pavone
 
 228 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 would not stand this, and when the second sheep was ready, 
 he told me to come with him to the fire ; but Manzo in an 
 angry tone told him to take me back; he remained, and two 
 others marched me back to my old place. The same trick 
 was repeated when food was brought again to us ; experi- 
 ence had, however, taught me by this time that there was no 
 use in grumbling, so I ate what I could get with thankfulness. 
 
 I was very ill all this day, and, to improve matters, it 
 turned out a pouring wet day. As soon as it began to rain 
 Pavone came up for half of my capote. Scope wanted to 
 come under it too, but I was very firm on this point, and 
 told him that Pavone was one too many, and that the cap- 
 tain had given me the cloak for myself. While sitting to- 
 gether, Pavone told me that as soon as my money was paid 
 he meant to present himself that is, to give himself up to 
 justice and asked me not to recognize him should I see 
 him in prison. He did not seem to know that the govern- 
 ment knew all of them better than I did. He told me that 
 his wife and children had been in prison all the time he had 
 been a brigand, this being the custom, and a very good one 
 too, of the Italian authorities, and that they would be re- 
 leased directly he gave himself up. 
 
 He also told me his history. He had been an agricultural 
 laborer, and having committed murder (or homicide as he 
 called it) during the reign of Francis II., he had been put 
 in prison for three years. Soon after being released he re- 
 peated the same crime and took to the woods. He showed 
 me the weapon which he had used on both occasions a 
 stiletto, the blade of which was about six inches long ; he 
 had a superstitious reverence for it, and was quite uneasy 
 whenever it was out of his hands. I used all my persuasive 
 powers to induce him to aid my escape, in which case I 
 promised to give him 2000 ducats, and to get a free pardon
 
 Diary of Mr. Hoens, June 21 to 30. 229 
 
 for him ; but he was afraid of Manzo's vengeance against 
 members of his family, all of whom would be murdered on 
 the first opportunity. I tried to work on his feelings as a 
 husband and father, but was as unsuccessful with him as I 
 afterward was with many others. 
 
 As night came on, we returned to where we had stopped 
 in the morning, and an enormous fire, made in the most 
 skillful way, was lighted. The pile was at least ten feet 
 high, and as many in diameter, and round this we laid our- 
 selves on the wet ground, those who had not capotes pick- 
 ing branches of leaves, and after drying them by the fire, 
 spreading them on the ground. A dreadful scene took 
 place in the middle of the night. Suddenly waking (for I 
 now slept as lightly as any brigand), I saw Generoso, who 
 was sleeping next to me, writhing in agony ; his hands were 
 clenched and lips drawn up, and he was deadly cold ; An- 
 touina, who was always with him, was in the greatest dis- 
 tress, appealing every moment to the Madonna. I soon saw 
 he was seized with convulsions of some kind, and recom- 
 mended that hot pads should be applied to his person. He 
 was foaming at the mouth, and in a short time struggled so 
 that it took five men to keep him down. At last he was 
 quiet, but by this time his pulse was hardly perceptible, and 
 he grew colder and colder. There was great concern ex- 
 hibited for him, as he was a great favorite, and all thought 
 he was dying. I told them to keep rubbing his limbs, and, 
 not wishing to see his last moments, turned away. I had 
 been standing over him for two or three hours, and, exhaust- 
 ed by fatigue, fell asleep. When I awoke in the morning, 
 to my great astonishment, he was all right again. I asked 
 him how he was, and he told me that his legs were rather 
 painful at the knee-joints, but he did not seem to have any 
 recollection of the fit.
 
 230 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 A little more to the north than where we crossed the 
 valley yesterday, I observed an old mediaeval castle, partly 
 in ruins ; the walls had inclosed some extent of land, all of 
 which was now cultivated ; many of the walls were covered 
 with ivy, and close by was a modern small farm-house. 
 Near this place I noticed several peasants haymaking : this 
 seemed managed in a different manner to what we do in 
 England. When dry, the grass is all twisted up into tight 
 wisps in fact, made up into short lengths of thick cable 
 and then stacked away. It struck me that it was a sad 
 waste of time. 
 
 June 24. To-day the captain ordered the band to go high- 
 er up the mountain to the fountain, because the shepherds 
 had reported that the troops had passed where we now 
 were only two days before, but had not ascended higher 
 up; so he considered that a change would be safer for us. 
 I was very unwell, and the climb up much tired me ; but it 
 was no use showing any disinclination to go on, so I said 
 nothing, hoping that we should not have to go far. This 
 proved to be the case, fortunately for me ; and when I was 
 told to lie down, I sat on a large block of wood, and the 
 brigands set about collecting firewood, for all complained 
 of the great cold. To my dismay, Manzo did not allow me 
 to come near the fire when it was made, but sent me off 
 again to some little distance under the charge off two or 
 three of his men. I had the advantage of a magnificent 
 view, with the sea in the extreme distance, but this did not 
 make up for the want of the fire which all the others were 
 enjoying. At last Manzo sent for me to write horrible let- 
 ters to my wife and the consul, which he dictated ; he would 
 not allow me to insert a single word of English, and still 
 persisted in asking for the same sum as at first. How 
 my heart always sank when, after my entreaties to dimin-
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 21 to 30. 231 
 
 ish the sum, he would say, "Write as I say, 50,000 duc- 
 ats !"* 
 
 Provisions now began to flow in, two peasants having 
 brought up a number of round loaves with a large hole in 
 the centre. I saw them through the trees sitting on the 
 bank by the fountain ; but as soon as the brigands saw that 
 I had noticed the strangers, they were removed to a place 
 out of my sight. I must now describe this fountain. 
 
 It was in a lovely spot, quite level, about thirty yards long 
 and ten wide, surrounded by beech-trees ; on one side there 
 was a sloping bank on which the members of the band were 
 extremely fond of lying basking in the sun. The water is- 
 sued from the ground on the eastern end, and ran in a little 
 stream which formed pools every two or three yards, and 
 finally ran down the incline of the mountain. " Forget-me- 
 nots" grew most luxuriantly ; also violets and many other 
 wild flowers were mingled with the short grass that covered 
 the ground. In the afternoon I was allowed to go and sit 
 on the bank in order to enjoy the sun ; and a share of some 
 delicious cheese, only just made, was given to me, and also 
 a tiny piece of old cheese, which I reserved for a time of 
 want. The bread varied in every district, and what we had 
 here was far superior to the dark and coarse loaves of oval 
 form which we got when near Giffoni. 
 
 When the peasants wished to go away, I was made to 
 cover my head with a capote, so that I might not be able to 
 recognize them afterward, and then they passed by me and 
 were soon lost to sight in the woods. About two hours 
 before sunset Mauzo selected eight or ten of the band to 
 stop with me while he went back to Giffbni to take my let- 
 ters and get some more money (but many a weary journey 
 had he to perform before any more was received, on account 
 of the number and vigilance of the soldiers). 
 
 * See also Manzo's Letter to Visconti, Appendix E.
 
 232 English Travelers and Italian JBrif/ands. 
 
 Though already veiy high, we went still higher up the 
 mountain, having to pass many most difficult places. At 
 one of these the men ahead got separated from us, through 
 my being unable to climb up quick enough. Those behind 
 were in a great rage with me when they found their signals 
 unanswered ; but Manzo soon sent two or three of those 
 with him to look for us. In about half an hour we arrived 
 at another of those curious ledges about one thousand feet 
 from the extreme summit of the mountain, with about eight- 
 een inches of space to walk along, the mountain rising per- 
 pendicularly on one side, and the precipice being on the 
 other. I fortunately had rather strong nerves, for if I had 
 been in the least dizzy, I must have fallen over. If I hesita- 
 ted for a moment a harsh cry of " Camminate" would be 
 raised by the man behind me. Manzo now repeated his 
 orders, which were very precise, and provided for every 
 emergency, and then left us, saying that he would return in 
 six days. 
 
 I must now describe my position : we were on the top 
 of the highest mountain* in the province of Avellino, to the 
 extreme northeast of that portion of the Apennines which 
 traverses the greater part of that province and that of Sa- 
 lerno. The side we were on faced the northwest, and look- 
 ing that way Vesuvius appeared a moderate-sized isolated 
 mountain, with a long line of smoke drifting away from the 
 summit. Naples was not visible, Mount Vesuvius just shut- 
 ting it out from view ; but behind, the island of Nisida, and 
 the coast-line of the Bay of Naples near BaiaB, ending at the 
 Point of Misenum, were very clearly marked, and farther on 
 the lofty island of Ischia. The coast to the north gradually 
 became indistinct, till at last it was lost in the extreme dis- 
 tance. How this view brought to mind a happy day we 
 * This mountain, I think, must have been Monte Marano.
 
 Diary of J// 1 . Moens, June 21 to 30. 233 
 
 had spent exploring the remains of antiquity at Baine, and 
 our little voyage by boat to Misenura only three days before 
 my capture ! Nocera and the other towns between Vesuvi- 
 us and Castellamare were exceedingly distinct, every house 
 being visible. 
 
 I remembered that I had seen nearly the same view from 
 the top of Mount Vesuvius about five years before ; but 
 going up a mountain for one's own amusement, as I did 
 then, and being taken up forcibly against one's will, are very 
 different things, especially when, in the latter case, instead 
 of stopping a short houi', one knows for a certainty that one 
 will have to stop there six days, and perhaps longer, being 
 all that time exposed to the cruelly cold wind which gener- 
 ally blows at this elevation. This evening it blew from the 
 north, and seemed to pierce right through me. I complain- 
 ed of the cruelty of exposing me in this manner ; but, though 
 suffering bitterly themselves, my captors had the impudence 
 to tell me that it was my own fault, and that when the mon- 
 ey was paid I might go back to my friends and enjoy the 
 comforts of a house ! I told them that they would never get 
 the 50,000 ducats they were always talking about; and to 
 that they would call out, in a mocking tone, " impossibile, 
 impossibile" those being the words generally uttered by 
 an unfortunate prisoner when they demand unconscionable 
 sums. 
 
 To-day was Sunday : but 
 
 "The sound of a church-going bell 
 
 These valleys and rocks never heard ; 
 Never sighed at the sound of a knell, 
 Nor smiled when a Sabbath appeared." 
 
 Though we were all feeling the cold so much, we had no 
 fire to-night, being in too exposed a position, and my suffer- 
 ings in the morning were most severe. The fine weather
 
 234 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 of last night had gone, and with it that lovely view ; in its 
 place was nothing but the mist and clouds with which we 
 were enveloped, the wind driving them along the side of the 
 mountain. Pepino and several others who had slept by the 
 fountain joined us, bringing a good supply of bread, some 
 confetti, two terracotta jars and two caraffe of wine, and 
 two or three bottles of rosolio, a kind of strong liqueur, and 
 a large handkerchief full of cherries, which had got wet the 
 day before, and were now in a fermented state ; but I had 
 been so long without vegetable food that I ate all my share ; 
 they then drank a bottle of rosolio, each taking a little out 
 of my leathern cup. 
 
 I suffered terribly after this. I do not know whether the 
 severe cold had any thing to do with it or not, but for the 
 next four days I had a most violent attack of diarrhoea, and 
 I fully expected that the brigands would have had to scoop 
 out a shallow hole to put my body in. The wine and spirit 
 made them rather merry to-day, and they played a noisy 
 game, thus : All stood in a circle, one being chosen by lot 
 in the same manner as the sentinels were selected ; he took 
 a bottle of rosolio and drank a little, and the bottle was 
 then passed round from one to the other, and if the starter 
 made the noise one does with the tongue when driving, the 
 holder of the bottle was not to drink, but. to pass it on ; but 
 if he said " esso," the lucky holder at that moment was al- 
 lowed a draught. Of course the expectant is often tanta- 
 lized by a pause, and after all is disappointed. When the 
 bottle gets low, it passes round and round again without 
 any one being allowed to drink, and the merriment is great. 
 Of course the one who has been allowed to drink then gives 
 the word to the others. I was asked to join, but I was too 
 ill to enjoy the fun. 
 
 I thought of trying to escape to-day. I was left alone a
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 21 to 30. 235 
 
 few moments, and immediately went quietly along the ledge 
 away from the band, but very leisurely, as if escaping was 
 the last thing I was thinking of; and very fortunately too, 
 as Giuseppe and his consort were some little way off in the 
 direction I was going. They saw me, and immediately 
 wanted to know where I was going, and I had to make 
 some excuse, and those in charge of me had a good blow- 
 ing up for not looking better after me. In the evening I 
 was delighted to hear that they would not sleep again in 
 such an exposed position, for all had suffered severely from 
 the cold and wet, and we went back to the fountain, and a 
 large fire was made, round which we all slept, with our feet 
 toward the glowing embers. As soon as the sun was up 
 we all went to a retired place to sun ourselves, as it was 
 dangerous to keep up a fire during the day. 
 
 June, 27. A new companion came to-day; he was a nice- 
 looking peasant lad ; his crime, as usual, was murder, but he 
 was as merry as possible, and remorse did not seem to trou- 
 ble him in the least. The captain is expected on Thursday; 
 and, to my horror, I heard that he has written to the Pre- 
 fect of Salerno to say that if the money is not sent up by 
 the 5th of July, my ears are to be cut off and sent to my 
 friends. I was also told that they had received a letter 
 from the secretary of the prefect. I felt too ill to care 
 about any thing, and told them that every thing was as God 
 willed, and that they might do what they liked with me. 
 
 June, 28. I suffered agony all day, and some pasta which 
 I ate made me worse. I felt so miserable that at times I 
 longed to die. I had not heard from my friends for nine 
 days, but I still hoped that to-morrow the captain would 
 come with money and letters. Money ! money ! if I had 
 known that none would come for nearly two months, I do 
 not think I could have lived. I found a comfortable soft
 
 236 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 place between the trunks of two enormous beeches, a few 
 yards from the rest of the band, so that I escaped hearing 
 the frightful language they constantly made use of. To 
 my joy, I was allowed to remain in this place ; but two or 
 three never took their eyes off me. 
 
 To amuse myself, I cut names in the back of the tree, and 
 also a large cross, I also tried to cheer myself up with the 
 idea of the captain coming to-morrow with sufficient money 
 to induce them to come down in their demands, for I felt 
 sure that until at least 15,000 ducats came they would con- 
 tinue asking 50,000. The reason I had for this idea was 
 that the original sum asked for the two Viscontis was de- 
 manded again and again until they had paid 15,000, and 
 then the 40,000 ducats was reduced to 25,000, and I thought 
 it would be much the same in my case. I could not sleep a 
 wink all this night ; I felt so ill and wretched, and the hor- 
 rible idea of the 5th of July approaching Avould come into 
 my head. I did not believe what they had told me; but 
 still it might be the case, for they have no regard for any 
 one's feelings : they only think of the most ready way of 
 forcing money from the relatives of their captive. 
 
 It was a fearful night, blowing a perfect hurricane, and 
 the trees were all lashed into a perfect state of fury. It did 
 not rain, but the clouds with which we were enveloped kept 
 driving by, drenching every thing. Pavone slept and snored 
 under the half of my capote, and his odor was very " loud" 
 and unpleasant. The feeling of being obliged to lie in such 
 close proximity to a double-dyed murderer was almost more 
 than I could endure, and I am afraid that he must have 
 found me a most uncomfortable bedfellow. I kept hitting 
 him to stop his snoring rolling myself round and so drag- 
 ging the covering from him, and groaning from the pain I 
 suffered ; but I must say that for all that he was most for-
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 28 to 30. 237 
 
 bearing. He could see that I was very ill, and I kept im- 
 pressing on him that I should be dead in a few hours unless 
 a change for the better took place. He told me that there 
 was a chance of some cheese made from cows' milk comiuo- 
 up to-morrow, and that it would be very good for me. It 
 seemed to me a most curious remedy, and the last thing in 
 the world I should have chosen, but in the end it certainly 
 did me good. 
 
 June 29. In the morning I discovered that they had half 
 a bottle of absinthe : this was given to me by Andrea the ex- 
 ecutioner, to my great astonishment, for he always grudged 
 me every mouthful ; but just now he was suffering from an 
 attack of fever, and I suppose this made him feel a little 
 for me ; he told me to keep the bottle in my pocket, so that 
 the others might not take it from me. I put a little into all 
 the water I drank, and from this time I gradually recovered, 
 but I was not well for several days. I am thankful to say 
 that this was the only serious attack of illness I suffered 
 from all the weary days of my detention ; at a later date I 
 nearly died from starvation, but I soon recovered when I 
 obtained a fair supply of food. 
 
 To-day it was very clear, all the clouds of last night hav- 
 ing blown away, and from the place where I was lying, all 
 that well-known view of the plain of Salerno, bounded on 
 the south by the mountains below Psestum, was visible. I 
 could see the white houses forming the village of Battipa- 
 glia where I was taken, but the old temples, yellow from 
 age, were not to be distinguished. I had, however, no taste 
 for scenery just now, for I could think of nothing but the 
 coming of Manzo, hoping that a good sum of money had 
 been sent to him. Minute by minute, hour by hour, the 
 day passed by : how long it appeared ! at last darkness set 
 in, and we retired to the place where it was possible to
 
 238 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 make a fire in security ; then another sleepless night was 
 passed, though I did not suffer as I had done the night be- 
 fore. 
 
 June 30. About the middle of the day I was thrown into 
 the greatest state of excitement by seeing Manzo and Lo- 
 renzo quietly walking toward us. The captain said nothing 
 to me, but handed me an Italian-English Dictionary I had 
 written for, and in it were two letters from my wife, and 
 one in English from Mr. Richard Holme. (This was the 
 first I had heard of this gentleman, who so nobly stepped 
 forward on behalf of Mr. Aynsley and myself, and who, at 
 the risk of his life and liberty, went backward and forward 
 between Giffoni and Salerno, carrying letters and money to 
 Signor Visconti's house, to be forwarded to the brigands 
 for my liberation. Manzo and the others had often told me 
 that the secretary of the English consul was at Giffoni or 
 
 Salerno, having no doubt heard of Mr. C and Mr. Holme 
 
 being there at different times, and they might have made 
 an attempt to pounce upon the money en route. I after- 
 ward heard that the general in command at Salerno invari- 
 ably offered my friends an escort of soldiers when they 
 wished to leave Salerno, an offer which was, of course, 
 thankfully accepted. In Italy it is highly dangerous to 
 carry large sums of money ; life is held in such little esteem 
 that hundreds would have thought nothing of taking any 
 life that stood between them and the coveted gold.) 
 
 I was delighted at the sight of the letters, but my heart 
 sank when I asked Manzo how much money, and the answer 
 was returned ofniente. The horrid talk about my ears came 
 to my mind again, but I was relieved when I was told that 
 no money was sent because my friends thought I was dead, 
 and would send no more unless they received a letter in 
 English from me to prove I was alive. I directly saw that
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, June 28 to 30. 239 
 
 this was a clever device to induce the brigands to let me 
 write in English, and enable me to give hints regarding the 
 course they should pursue at Naples.* 
 
 As soon as I received the letters (and how those from my 
 wife made me grieve !), Manzo came to me and told me 
 to write to the consul and my wife, and that I might write 
 two lines of English in each. I told him that it was impos- 
 sible to say any thing in two lines, and got with difficulty 
 permission to write ^ve lines, but not a word more. Into 
 these few lines I contrived to squeeze as much information 
 for my friends as possible, telling them of my real state, and 
 of my great desire to be liberated ; also how they were to 
 distinguish in future between what was really written by 
 me and what was dictated ; and I mentioned that the band 
 would never reduce their demand as long as they believed 
 that the government would pay. These letters were sent 
 off by Pepino Cerino and his band. Manzo remained with 
 us, and told me that the messenger would return in four 
 days. 
 
 * I afterward heard that this letter was concocted by Messrs. Holme 
 and C at Salerno with the view I supposed.
 
 240 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 DIARY OF ME. MOENS, JULY 1 TO 17. 
 
 Waiting for an Answer. The Soldiers again. We Eetreat. How they 
 encouraged me to move on. A narrow Escape. News of Giardullo's 
 Capture. How it was effected. Gambling again. I lend my Comb. 
 Place aux Dames. Orchard Robbing. A Meal of Onions. Pavone 
 steals my Socks. The Fame of Crocco and Borjes. Telescopes. 
 Sheep-stealing. Another Night Walk. I write more Letters. Guan- 
 ge offends Manzo. Manzo enforces Discipline. Feeling of the Band 
 toward him. Scarcity of Water. Sentonio's Water-bottle. Mysteri- 
 ous Disappearance of the Contents. Lorenzo physics himself. I am 
 threatened by all. I think seriously of cutting my Ears myself. Pro- 
 posal to Emigrate under my Leadership. 
 
 THE next day, Manzo, after his usual custom, sent me off 
 under the charge of Sentonio and Lorenzo higher up the 
 mountain. It was bitterly cold, and where we were sent 
 there was no chance of getting any sun. Lorenzo here 
 again confided to me his intention of giving himself up to 
 justice as soon as my money was paid. I tried the plan of 
 bribing him, but got the same answer that Pavone gave me 
 that he feared the vengeance of Manzo on his relatives. 
 What a horrid place we were now in ! It was very damp, 
 and the ground covered with large pieces of rotten wood, 
 crumbling to dust at the least touch. 
 
 In the evening the band came up to sleep in this place, 
 Manzo considering that it was hardly safe close to the fount- 
 ain, for fear of the soldiers coming there for water. Ferdi-
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 1 to 17. 241 
 
 nando, who had been a soldier in the Italian army, with four 
 others, was sent down to the plain to forage for bread. 
 Manzo was far more cautious than the others, and would 
 allow no fire in the morning. 
 
 Every morning my joints grew stiffer and stiffer from the 
 effects of the cold and damp, and I dreaded much the rheu- 
 matism that I felt sure I should suffer from afterward. 
 About nine o'clock there was an idea that some people were 
 at the fountain, and Manzo went a little way down to re- 
 connoitre, but returned, saying there was nothing; in five 
 minutes more, the sentinel who had been sent farther down 
 came running up in a great state of alarm, saying that fifty 
 soldiers were at the fountain. I was immediately told to 
 run up the mountain, and they would hardly let me pick up 
 my little bundle of things and my capote. The bread was 
 taken, but the water-barrel and caldaja were left behind, 
 and I was driven before them. 
 
 I was exceedingly weak from the effects of my late ill- 
 ness, and soon slackened, but they immediately stimulated 
 my pace with the muzzles of their guns, and they used all 
 their exertions to put at least a mile of thick wood between 
 them and their foes. (From a conversation I had after my 
 freedom with the officers at Giffoni, I found that the troops 
 had had no idea that those they were looking so eagerly for 
 were so close to them.) And when the brigands found 
 that they were not followed, they took it more leisurely, 
 and after another mile they halted on a high mound, sloping 
 down on three sides, the other side being in the opposite 
 direction to the soldiers. 
 
 Here we waited for the men who were expected with 
 bread, great fears being expressed for their safety, lest they 
 should have fallen in the way of the troops, who were just 
 where they would pass in making their way to join the 
 
 L
 
 242 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 band. In about two hours some stones were heard falling 
 from the extreme top of the mountain, and scouts were sent 
 immediately to go and see whether it was occasioned by 
 their companions or by the soldiers, when it was found to be 
 the former ; and in the course of another hour they rejoined 
 us, reporting that they had seen the force at the fountain. 
 They had not been able to get any bread on account of the 
 force in the plain. The soldiers had caught some women 
 who were bringing up bread, confetti, rosolio, and bacon on 
 the back of a donkey, just as the things were about to be 
 given to Ferdinando and his party, who actually saw the 
 soldiers seize every thing, being only a few yards off. Had 
 they come up a few minutes later, the brigands would have 
 been captured with the food. 
 
 This all shows the difficulty the troops have in finding the 
 brigands ; they had no idea where they were, and yet the 
 brigands saw the soldiers, and escaped without the latter 
 even knowing that they were near. We heard that about 
 a week before, the band got information that in the south- 
 ern part of the province of Salerno, the Capo Giardullo, 
 another brigand captain and his band, consisting of about 
 thirty men, had been surprised, and four killed and three 
 wounded. Giardullo, and eventually all but four old hands, 
 gave themselves up to justice, and are now safely lodged in 
 prison at Salerno. Great commiseration was expressed for 
 them. " Oh, dear companions !" being the phrase continu- 
 ally uttered. In Giardullo's case information was gained 
 that a peasant had just taken food to the band ; he was met 
 by the troops, and with a pistol at his head was made to re- 
 trace his steps, and show where the hiding-place of Giardul- 
 lo was ; the sentinels were all asleep, and the brigands were 
 pinned in the cave where they were passing the night. 
 They immediately fired at the soldiers, who returned their
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 1 to 17. 243 
 
 GIABDCLLO DI PESTO. 
 
 fire with the result mentioned above. The rest all escaped, 
 but gave themselves up afterward. I presume that they 
 had realized sufficient plunder to enable them to live com- 
 fortably in prison, for their friends, under certain regula- 
 tions, are allowed to send them food and any thing they 
 may require. 
 
 The band remained here all day, and for a wonder gam- 
 bling went on quietly for some time. I felt very miserable, 
 for the messenger was to have returned on Sunday to the 
 fountain, but now this fresh disgrazia would make a fresh 
 delay. Early in the afternoon we crept silently through 
 the woods, descending the mountain, and at last struck a 
 path which led us over some hills covered with broom. 
 We arrived at last at a spring of excellent water, where we 
 rested half an hour, and then went on again for an hour, 
 halting on some open ground surrounded by low hills. Here
 
 244 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 the captain and three men went on some distance in order to 
 see whether the country was clear from the dreaded force. 
 The ground was a soft marl, to which the heavy rains so 
 prevalent in this part of the country had cut deep courses. 
 There were many boulders of white limestone scattered 
 about, some of them supported on pillars of earth, the sur- 
 rounding ground having been washed away. 
 
 I was told here that we were to go on walking till day- 
 light, so I took the opportunity of getting all the rest I 
 could; but the inveterate gamblers were hard at work 
 again. It was here that some of the band insisted on borrow- 
 ing my comb, and it was returned to me full of filth. I felt 
 very disgusted, but had to make up my mind to this, as well 
 as to giving up to one of the women, Maria by name, a piece 
 of bread I had saved, who exercised the privilege of her sex 
 in changing her mind, having refused to eat in the morning 
 when she was offered her own share. While here I was de- 
 lighted at hearing a number of linnets singing most sweet- 
 ly. In about three quarters of an hour, a whistle from the 
 direction the captain had taken told the band all was safe, 
 and in a few minutes we were on our way again. 
 
 We soon came to an excellent mule-road passing through 
 plantations of enormous chestnut-trees, the fields being all 
 well cultivated. It now grew quite dark, and we began to 
 descend, the road being on the verge of a precipice for some 
 miles ; the valley was deep below us, and the site of a town 
 was clearly marked out by a grand illumination, which 
 speedily broke out into a blaze of fire-works, the rockets il- 
 luminating all around. I inquired what it was all for, and 
 was told that it was zfesta in honor of the Madonna. We 
 stopped some time enjoying the spectacle, the good people 
 of the town of Montella little thinking that the dreaded 
 brigands were so near. When we got lower down greater
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens^ July 1 to 17. 245 
 
 caution was observed, and we walked through the cultivated 
 ground a little way from the road. We passed some large 
 heaps of firewood, and at a hut near a dog barked most vio- 
 lently at us ; at last we reached the bottom of the mountain, 
 and an excellent level road crossed our path at right angles, 
 evidently leading to the town. 
 
 I felt a great inclination to dash along it and make an at- 
 tempt to escape, but I was too closely surrounded by my 
 guardians, who had had fresh orders to look carefully after 
 me. I heard some of them tell the others that it was here 
 that the provisions had fallen into the hands of the soldiers 
 at ten o'clock last night. I could now see the high mount- 
 ains on the other side of the plain, and I was told that we had 
 to go right over the highest, which was a very long way off, 
 and that we must get a long way up before daybreak. We 
 soon came to a river : some walked through without hesita- 
 tion, the water coming a little higher than their knees. I 
 took the opportunity of drinking some water, for our long 
 walk of seven hours had made me very thirsty. I asked 
 when we should have something to eat, but was met with 
 the cheering answer of " Who knows ?" A sturdy fellow 
 now came to carry me over the stream on his back, and he 
 deposited me safely on the other bank. 
 
 A very little way farther on we came to a small house 
 standing by itself, and close by were the ruins of another. 
 We w r ere hidden behind these while Manzo, and Andrea, 
 and the secretary of Cerino's band went to the house, and in 
 about half an hour came back to us with a quantity of In- 
 dian-corn bread ; but this, when divided, was but little for 
 about forty men, and the share of each was very small. 
 Mine was very mouldy, and I was told to keep half for the 
 next day. The moon was shining brightly, and lighted us 
 through a succession of orchards and gardens. At one place
 
 246 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 we pillaged a patch of onions growing in rows between In- 
 dian corn. I secured several, besides those that some of the 
 band gave me. How delicious they seemed to me ! Na- 
 ture craved for vegetable food after a long abstinence from 
 it, and I fancied some of my fastidious friends' expression of 
 face could they have seen me devouring these odoriferous 
 bulbs like apples. Manzo would not allow a repetition of 
 this onion plundering, lest too apparent traces of the band 
 should be left behind. At another place a cherry-tree being 
 discovered, up went one of the band in an instant, and in- 
 stead of picking the fruit from the boughs, the branches 
 were torn off and thrown down to those below, and in a 
 few minutes little more than two or three bare poles were 
 left. Unripe plums, apples, and pears soon filled our pock- 
 ets, and after great difficulty all were reassembled in march- 
 ing order, and climbing up the high walls forming the ter- 
 races of earth, and gradually getting on higher ground. 
 
 We passed a newly-made road, running from a village that 
 was a little higher up on our right-hand side, and appearing 
 to join the highway, which I was told went to Apulia. 
 Hour after hour passed as we toiled through corn-fields, 
 every now and then having to wait for the stragglers, among 
 whom was Lorenzo, who always had been kind to me : he 
 was suffering from tertiary fever, the result of a cold caught 
 in getting wet through a few days before. At last they all 
 got so tired that they told the captain they would not walk 
 any more ; but he told them that when it was light they 
 should rest for a few hours, so on we went till the day 
 broke, and then they threw themselves down under an oak, 
 and in a few minutes all but the sentinels were fast asleep. 
 Here Pavone took advantage of my slumber to extract a 
 new pair of socks from my pockets, which I kept there for 
 a change, and I had the satisfaction, a day or two after, of
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 1 to 17. 247 
 
 seeing him wearing my property. I tried to rescue them, 
 but he only laughed at me. I did not wake up much before 
 ten o'clock, and found the brigands in a great state of ex- 
 citement, the sentinels having seen four carriages passing 
 along the road to Apulia. I was told that Apulia was the 
 head-quarters of brigandage, and that they had a general 
 there named Crocco,* who they said was in communication 
 with Rome. I asked how many he had under him. "A 
 thousand men and many captains," was the reply, " as well 
 as six hundred in the Basilicata."f They also told me that 
 in 1861 Spanish generals came to lead those fighting for 
 Francis II. against Victor Emmanuel, and that one of them, 
 named Borjes, had an enormous black beard, which they said 
 he always held in his left hand when he drank milk, of which 
 he was very fond. 
 
 At midday we went to the top of the mountain, and wait- 
 ed there till the evening. To-day I had the luxury of a 
 little butter which Andrea had obtained from the house 
 when he went with Manzo to get the bread. In this part 
 of Italy it is very rarely made ; but when they do make it, 
 it is put into little bladders. The brigand way of eating it 
 is to spread it half an inch thick on bread, and then to put 
 it out in the sun to melt. It was rather rancid ; but by this 
 time I was not overnice as regards the quality of any thing, 
 particularly luxuries. 
 
 Telescopes were in full use all day ; the captain had got 
 a new one from somewhere or other, and was very pleased 
 with it. In one letter to my wife he made me write for the 
 best English telescope to be obtained in Naples, either from 
 
 * For an account of this distinguished "general," I must again refer 
 my readers to the works of Count Maffeo and Mr. Hilton. The doings 
 of General Borjes are also there fully described. 
 
 t See Appendix F.
 
 248 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 a man-of-war or merchant vessel, without any regard to cost ; 
 but, fortunately, I had written two words in English, and 
 this had determined him not to send the letter, and thus 
 saved my friends the trouble of looking after a glass. 
 
 I was rather amused at seeing one of the men turn out of 
 his pocket a pair of blue cloth trowsers, which Manzo im- 
 mediately seized and put on ; his old ones he gave to Scope, 
 whose attire was in the most deplorable state. We were 
 very thirsty, for we had had no water since last night, and 
 had walked many hours after drinking. 
 
 When it grew dark Manzo and all the band (except four 
 or five who remained with me) went away, with orders that 
 I was to be brought on in about an hour. After waiting 
 this time I was taken over the crest of the mountain, along 
 ground level at first, and then slightly descending to some 
 rocks, where we found the rest of the band eagerly watch 
 ing a large flock of sheep passing along the bottom of the 
 valley. I came up just in time to see how they take the 
 sheep. Manzo, Justi, and two or three more had gone down 
 the hill-side stealthily, and hid behind a rock, and when 
 the flock passed opposite them, they darted out and rush- 
 ed down to the two shepherds, who of course were pow- 
 erless in the presence of armed men ; two then went with 
 the flock to their resting-place, where the sheep are milked 
 and the cheese made. As soon as they had gone, we went 
 down to join the captain. The brigands raced down the 
 hill with much joking. I tried to do the same, but found 
 that I could not manage it like they did, and so I went 
 down more soberly. When we reached Manzo we heard 
 that the shepherds were going to cook three sheep for us, 
 for the band could not do the cooking because of the loss of 
 their caldron, and that the captain had ordered them to 
 bring up some milk for me. We then ascended the hills on
 
 Diary of Mr. Mbens, July 1 to 17. 249 
 
 the other side of the valley, and at the top waited for the 
 promised meal. In a short time one of the shepherds and 
 a little boy brought up a barrel of water, which was most 
 welcome, and then I laid my head on my capote and slept 
 soundly for about an hour and a half. I was then awoke 
 by the arrival of the milk and some bread, which were very 
 welcome after two days' diet of mouldy Indian corn-bread. 
 A few minutes afterward the meat came up in milk-pails, 
 and was divided into shares. I was unlucky in my share, 
 as it consisted only of large bones with hardly any thing on 
 them; but I felt thankful for the bread and milk I had just 
 had. We could now see the fires of four sheepfolds along 
 the valley, which were all visited on our way, the band wait- 
 ing at each one while two or three of them went to the 
 shepherds and took or bought their stock of rye bread. 
 The dogs in the valley kept up a tremendous howling, 
 which did not die away till we got some distance from the 
 flocks. The walking to-night was of quite a different kind 
 to any I had experienced before. 
 
 The country, instead of being wooded and mountainous, 
 was bare, undulating, and very sandy, and with very little 
 or no water, and we suffered much for want of it for two 
 or three days. Here and there were patches of rye and po- 
 tatoes ; and when passing the cultivated parts, Manzo or- 
 dered the band to scatter, so that no distinct trace might be 
 left of their passage. We kept walking all night in a 
 southerly direction, and toward the morning went down a 
 steep hill, and descended into the rocky bed of a winter tor- 
 rent. Here I was told to sit down, and was left under the 
 charge of the secretary of Cerino's band, who told me that 
 we were going to Calabria. This made me very miserable, 
 for the farther I got from Giffoni the more difficult it would 
 be to get the money, as Signor Visconti very properly would 
 
 L2
 
 250 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 not hand over any without an order from me. While I was 
 waiting here, the rest of the band went down the river bed 
 searching for water, and at last they found a little that had 
 been left in a deep hole ; but this was putrid and full of 
 sand, and I thought it prudent not to drink any. In a short 
 time I was told to follow Andrea, who, while I was with 
 him, kept me at a little distance, and never took his eyes off 
 me. We followed the river, having to go down most awk- 
 ward places, which were waterfalls when the river was full. 
 All the stone was polished, which made walking very diffi- 
 cult; and at last we had to climb up a most precipitous 
 rock in the best way we could. The foremost would pull 
 up the next, while the one behind assisted by pushing. 
 
 It was now morning, and we entered into a dense wood 
 covering the mountain, which was destined to be our hid- 
 ing-place for some time. In a few minutes we came to a 
 grassy spot, and orders were given to stop there for the 
 day. The grass was very wet from the heavy dew, and, to 
 make it more comfortable, it soon began to rain heavily. 
 The bread obtained from the shepherds was divided ; it 
 was made of rye flour, and was as hard as a stone. In a 
 very short time the blows of an axe were heard close by, 
 and then those of another a little way off. At the sound of 
 these the brigands pricked up their ears, and Manzo, with 
 two or three others, went to see what use could be made 
 of the wood-cutters. We were told to creep noiselessly 
 farther away from where they were at work, and fault was 
 found with me (as always was the case) because I did not 
 make myself sufficiently invisible, my observation that I was 
 a foot and a half taller than some of them only serving t'o 
 increase their anger. Many a time did I get a thump on 
 the back because of this. When the captain returned, he 
 reported that there were two men and three women, and
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 1 to 17. 251 
 
 that they had arranged to bring some bread for us. Our 
 sufferings from thirst were very great again to-day, and I 
 was compelled to drink the muddy water, the flavor of 
 which was not improved by being brought to me in the in- 
 side of one of their wide-awakes. At nightfall we went to 
 a gully near the top of the mountain. It was full of dead 
 leaves, with which I made a comfortable bed, and Sentonio 
 built up a level space close to me with the stones he had 
 picked up. Some slept above and some below me, in order 
 to prevent all chance of escape. 
 
 The next day, July 5, 1 was ordered to write more letters, 
 from which I knew that I was going to be left under the 
 charge of a few Avhile the others went for more money. 
 Manzo was rather irate with me to-day, and told me that if 
 money did not come this time, my head would be sent to 
 my friends. I made my usual remark, "Just as you please," 
 and asked him how long he would be, and was told six 
 days. 
 
 I had a specimen to-day of the treatment which members 
 of the band received on displeasing their captain. Guange, 
 who had been a soldier in the Italian array, and who had 
 become a brigand merely for having been away from his 
 regiment one day without leave, was having an altercation 
 with one of his comrades, and, like these people, wished to 
 have the last word. Manzo told him to be quiet ; and just 
 because he did not obey at once, he rushed at him, knocked 
 him down, and kept hitting him and rubbing his face on to 
 the stones. Still Guange would not be qiiiet until Manzo 
 had pounded his face into a jelly, it being quite bruised, 
 and bleeding freely. Even his gums were cut badly from 
 the grinding against the ground. 
 
 Manzo looked a perfect demon when excited ; he cm-led 
 up his lips and showed all his teeth, and roared at his vie-
 
 252 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 tim, jerking out his words. The implicit obedience gener- 
 ally shown to him by the members of his baud was extraor- 
 dinary. They loved him on account of his unselfishness as 
 regards food, he being always willing to give away his own 
 share, and they feared him because he had shown on one or 
 two occasions that he did not scruple to shoot any of them 
 on the spot if they refused to obey his orders. 
 
 In the afternoon the promised provisions arrived in the 
 shape of bread, a ham, and sausages. Shortly after this 
 Manzo went away, leaving six men with me. The next 
 day (6th of July) we moved lower down the mountain, and 
 found a small level spot, free from trees or bushes, close to 
 an old hut that had been used by the woodcutters in the 
 winter. In this was found an earthen jug of a curious 
 shape, which proved very useful. A quantity of strawber- 
 ry and raspberry plants also grew here ; the strawberries 
 were just in season, and were most delicious. I longed to 
 be allowed to search for them. One day, a lover of fruit 
 went on an expedition after them, and brought back his cap 
 full ; these were divided among us, I getting my share with 
 the rest. We remained on this mountain till the 16th of 
 July. 
 
 The weather was very fine but very hot, and I suffered 
 frightfully from thirst, being supplied, like an animal, only 
 once a day, or rather once a night, for the water always 
 came up at about ten o'clock, an hour or two after I had 
 gone to sleep ; and it was so cold that it always kept me 
 from sleeping half the night. Two or three times they 
 brought up none for me, and I had to do without it for 
 forty-eight hours. A small wine-bottle full was the quan- 
 tity they gave me, and sometimes one of them would drink 
 half of that before handing it over to me. They abused mo 
 terribly if I asked for more ; but one night I got the better
 
 Diary of Mr. Moem, July 1 to 17. 253 
 
 of them. The old brigand, Sentonio, was sleeping next to 
 me, and he had got an earthen-ware jar full of water, which 
 he (to prevent its being drunk) used as a pillow. I had 
 been done out of my allowance by him the day before ; so, 
 when he was asleep, I quietly pulled out the leaves, which 
 always serve the brigands for corks, from the mouth of 
 the jar, and then inserted a tube, and, exhausting the air, I 
 got all I wanted, and before morning nearly emptied the 
 vessel. It was great fun to see his puzzled face when he 
 woke, as he put it to his lips for a draught. 
 
 The fountain where they got the water was at least a 
 mile off, and once or twice the soldiers went to it ; but in- 
 formation was always given to the brigands beforehand by 
 a peasant who lived in a cottage at the bottom of the 
 mountain, a regular system of signals having been estab- 
 lished between him and the band by means of blows of an 
 axe on a tree, a different meaning being conveyed accord- 
 ing to the number of blows. They were much put out one 
 day by my telling them that their friend wanted one of 
 them to come down to him, and that he was waiting in a 
 patch of potatoes. I knew that there was a cottage by the 
 constant barking of a dog in one place. I always made a 
 point of telling the brigands all I found out, and the differ- 
 ent lies each would tell about the same thing served to con- 
 firm me when I was doubtful about any thing. One day 
 we moved our position, and I was sent with Pavone and 
 two others to our old place in the gully at the top of the 
 mountain ; they missed the way, going too far to the right. 
 I kept telling them they were going wrong, but they would 
 not listen to me ; but at last, after a great deal of bad lan- 
 guage, and the poor Madonna being called all sorts of names, 
 they took my advice, and we soon found the desired place. 
 Afterward I heard them telling the others that I knew far
 
 254 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 too much. It was very tedious lying all day and night in 
 the same position, for many days in succession. 
 
 One day they amused themselves by telling me that 
 Manzo had given himself up to justice, and that they were 
 going to increase the sum required for my ransom ; then 
 one by one they came to me, telling me in a confidential 
 way that this was the worst thing that could happen to me, 
 for Manzo always took my part when they wanted to mu- 
 tilate me. Pasquale, who was always urging Manzo to cut 
 my ears off, told me that he had been chosen captain ; but I 
 told him that they would never choose a man like him, for 
 he could neither read nor write. He told me that he had 
 4000 ducats deposited with his friends, which was afterward 
 confirmed by several of the band; but I told him that money 
 did not make a man. Ferdinando told me that they had 
 had news that my wife was dead, and though I felt sure 
 that they were all telling falsehoods, yet the thought often 
 came over me, and did not tend to cheer me up. The cap- 
 tain was so long away that food began to run short ; for 
 peasants, after they have provided a certain quantity, and 
 secured a good sum of money, do not like running a farther 
 risk of 20 years in prison their punishment, should they be 
 discovered in aiding and abetting the brigands. 
 
 At first the woodcutter sent up a supply of first-rate bread 
 every two days, the loaves weighing seven pounds a piece ; 
 and on one occasion, a quantity of cooked macaroni in a 
 sieve, as well as a boiled fowl for Lorenzo, who still suffered 
 from fever. He did not fancy it ; I offered to cut it up for 
 the whole party. I began in the usual way, but this was 
 far too slow for the savages, who took it in one hand, and 
 then tore off the limbs with the other, and it was divided 
 into eleven shares. Lorenzo at last got some quinine and 
 castor oil ; and as brigands never do any thing by halves,
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 1 to 17. 255 
 
 and this rule holds good with medicine, he drank a good- 
 sized bottle of the oil at once, and took every ninety min- 
 utes as much quinine as would lie on a franc. This violent 
 treatment seemed to succeed, for it cut short in one day 
 the fever which had been on him a fortnight, and he soon 
 recovered his usual strength. Another man suffered from 
 a dreadful abscess inside his cheek, and for this he used a 
 fomentation of a kind of straw in water. A week after 
 Manzo left us we had to go two days without any thing to 
 eat, so a foray was made into the country neai', and three 
 sheep alive brought back. When they were being cut up, 
 I was much disgusted at seeing Generoso and Antonio, who 
 generally acted as butchers, tearing mouthfuls of raw meat, 
 with their teeth, from the carcass, just like wolves. I ask- 
 ed them why they did not wait for it to be cooked, and 
 they said, "Why should we, when we are dying of hun- 
 ger?" 
 
 To make amends for this unpleasant night, I was delight- 
 ed at seeing a new water-barrel, which would hold a good 
 supply, sufficient for the day, so that my torments from the 
 want of water this hot weather I hoped would be spared 
 me. Few living in our land of comfort know what it is to 
 be without water for forty-eight or even twenty-four hours 
 the fearful thirst one wakes with, and the throat so parch- 
 ed that it is almost impossible to speak. Just before these 
 arrived, Pavone and four others went down to the cottage 
 to see if they could get any thing, and returned with some 
 small potatoes and some peas, which they call ciceri the 
 Avord which all were required to say on the night of the 
 Sicilian Vespers ; those who were unable to pronounce it 
 properly being set down as French, and killed. It is a cu- 
 rious sort of pea, there being only one large pea in each pod. 
 I was so hungry that I ate a quantity uncooked ; an earthen
 
 256 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 vessel was procured, in which the meat was stewed, in place 
 of the caldaja, the loss of which they deplored much. 
 
 Day by day I got more desponding at the non-arrival of 
 the captain ; the 15th had arrived, and it was about eight 
 o'clock, when an earthen jar was broken in order to make a 
 sort of plate. The noise of this directed Carmine Amendolo 
 to us, and he suddenly appeared in the middle of the party 
 without their having heard his approach ; he looked very 
 sulky and half-starved. I asked him where the captain was, 
 to which he only vouchsafed the reply of "Above." I tnen 
 inquired whether money and letters had arrived, and a jerk 
 of the head upward told me that I was again disappointed, 
 after all the painful hours of anticipation I had gone through. 
 
 At this all broke out reviling me, some darting at me with 
 knives, threatening to kill me. Even Pavone, who always 
 had half of my capote at night, threatened me, and I spent 
 the most uncomfortable hour possible, expecting every mo- 
 ment that their threat of cutting off my ears would be car- 
 ried into execution. I had determined, should they ap- 
 proach for that purpose, to cut off the top of one myself, 
 hoping thereby to save the bottom of the ear, as I could 
 conceal the loss of the upper part with my hair ; but hap- 
 pily the captain showed himself, and told me that Visconti 
 had not sent his messenger to the place appointed on ac- 
 count of the numerous force round Giffoni. 
 
 One night, while in this spot, I was taken with the band 
 to the fountain where the water was procured. A piece of 
 hollow wood had been thrust into the ground, and the water 
 ran along it, pure and sparkling, into a large wooden trough. 
 At a right angle to this trough was another very long one, 
 which I presume had been placed here for the convenience 
 of watering sheep : they had, however, the appearance of 
 not having been used for some time. I took advantage of
 
 Diary of Mr. Moem, July 1 to 17. 257 
 
 being here, and washed my face and hands with a little 
 piece of soap I had begged from Andrea some time ago : it 
 was a great luxury at the time, but the next day I suffered 
 more than ever from the musquitoes, who seemed to enjoy 
 the clean flesh. I wished to do more in the washing line, 
 but my cautious friends would not hear of it, being afraid 
 lest the soldiers should suddenly appear. It was a lovely 
 night, the moon shining brightly ; and instead of returning 
 to our lair in the wood, the band ascended the hills in the 
 opposite direction. I was delighted with the exercise, for I 
 had not been allowed to move for several days. When we 
 arrived on the top signals were made, which were soon an- 
 swered by the half dozen who had left our part of the band 
 a few hours ago, and we saw them moving along the sharp 
 outline of the rocks, the bright moonlight making the brig- 
 ands look like giants. We made our way up to them, and I 
 was told to go to sleep ; but the scene was too lovely to lose, 
 and so I sat wrapped up in my cloak, with my back against 
 a large stone. In a short time I heard the tramp, tramp of 
 men passing over stony ground ; it came nearer and nearer, 
 and at last I could see four or five of the brigands approach- 
 ing, carrying a supply of bread, which had been sent from 
 some town. Home-made bread is as different from baker's 
 bread in Italy as it is in England, the latter being not half 
 so satisfying as that made in the houses of the peasants. 
 We then went down to a most inaccessible place on the 
 side of the mountain toward the east : it was most break- 
 neck work, the descent being nearly perpendicular. 
 
 We stopped here all the next day. At about midday 
 more bread arrived, and on my remarking on it, and giving 
 my opinion that it was made in a house, I was told in a 
 most angry way by Lorenzo that I was to see and know 
 nothing, and never to ask any questions, but to be satisfied
 
 258 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 when provisions came, and not to care where they came 
 from. He added that I knew far too ranch in fact, move 
 than was good for me. I laughed, to the disgust of several 
 of them, and told them that I wanted to learn all I could 
 about brigandage, to tell the good people in England, for 
 they had no idea of their manners and customs, and that 
 they need not care about what I knew, for I should go im- 
 mediately to England, fifteen hundred miles off, when I was 
 free. 
 
 I used to have numerous questions about England, and 
 they were astonished to hear that we were governed by a 
 queen, who I told them was good and beloved by all ; that 
 there were no brigands there, not even one. They made 
 minute inquiries about the royal family, the army, and prices 
 of provisions, and so forth, and said they all longed to be in 
 a country where labor was so well rewarded. It was most 
 amusing to see their eyes when I told them of California 
 and Australia, where gold was dug out of the earth. 
 
 At last they said that they would all go there if I would 
 be their captain ! I thanked them much for the honor they 
 showed me, but I told them that both I and my wife loved 
 our country too much to leave it, and that I thought that if 
 she went with us she would be in the way, and that I could 
 not leave her behind in England. Justi then proposed to 
 come w T ith me to England, and offered to work for me for 
 nothing if I would give him food and clothing : up to the 
 last he was harping on this idea, but I always talked of the 
 difficulty of his leaving Italy with a passport. In the even- 
 ing we returned to the place we had left the night before. 
 
 The same day that Manzo arrived soldiers were seen on 
 the mountains opposite, and after a careful survey through 
 the glasses, I was sent off to the top of the mountain, and 
 we waited on the opposite side till the captain and band
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 1 to 17. 259 
 
 came to us. It was a very noisy and quarrelsome day, 
 for the men that had just returned with Manzo were half 
 starved, and would eat up the meat that had been kept in 
 reserve ; and Manzo was very indignant when he found that 
 two sheep had been eaten in about an hour. This was the 
 first time that I had seen the operation of roasting on a 
 grand scale, ; the small pieces of meat into which the whole 
 sheep is always cut up were stuck on long skewers, and 
 then these were rested on forked sticks, and the pieces were 
 eaten as fast as done. Sometimes it was rather underdone, 
 and then the piece would be thrown down into the hot 
 ashes, and, when it was done to their fancy, would be eaten, 
 though covered with dirt. The correct way to clean it was 
 to rub it on the first thing handy, generally their trowsers. 
 I came off very badly to-day, only getting a tongue, which I 
 had to cut out of a head that had just been skinned : the 
 operation made me feel rather sick, but I found necessity a 
 hard master, and one whom I was obliged to obey.* 
 
 In the early part of the afternoon we had the excitement 
 of hearing a gun go off close by ; all began to bolt, when it 
 was discovered that the captain's had gone off by accident. 
 I told him that whoever let his gun off ought to be fined 
 thirty ducats, to be spent in buying rosolio for the band the 
 first opportunity. This rather took their fancy. 
 
 * I can not help feeling that my narrative may be open to the remark 
 that it contains a great deal about cooking, eating, and drinking. It must 
 be remembered, however, that these operations not only form the most 
 important features in the domestic life of ruffians living, as brigands do, 
 from hand to mouth, but that, while I was with the band, these operations 
 were of sufficiently rare occurrence to be highly interesting to me.
 
 260 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 DlAKY OF ME. MOENS, JULY IV TO 22. 
 
 A good View of the Country. A real live Wolf. A good Omen. Strik- 
 ing a Light with a Percussion Cap. A Brigand Bivouac. Cook- 
 ing Scene. The first Whisper of a Eeduction in the Ransom. Pas- 
 quale's kind Advice to the Captain. Manzo leaves me again. Scope's 
 Gun goes off. I venture to chaff him. A fair Challenge. His Re- 
 venge. Visitors from Giardullo's Band. Their Adventures. Manzo's 
 Return. A Skirmish with the Soldiers. The Band is divided. Awk- 
 ward Position of my Party. I am in great Danger. Thoughts of Es- 
 cape. I hesitate to kill two Sleeping Men. 
 
 July 17. THE captain now required six men to go with 
 him, the rest having to remain. I could not understand why 
 all were so loth to go with him, but I heard afterward that 
 a supply of food and some clean shirts were to be waited 
 for, and all wanted to get them ; but he called the required 
 number by name, and they were obliged to follow us. In a 
 short time we left the woods, and found ourselves on the 
 highest ridge of a mountain ; the rock was all limestone, 
 much worn by the action of the rain. Though in such a 
 very elevated spot, it was considered unsafe to continue 
 walking while it was still daylight ; so we lay down, and I 
 had an opportunity of enjoying the extraordinary view. 
 
 We were on the extreme east of the province of Avellino, 
 and, looking in that direction, a great plain lay stretched out 
 at our feet, extending out to the south. Beyond the plain 
 the mountains of Apulia were very visible, and over these 
 the hazy blue of the Adriatic could be discerned. Turning
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 17 to 22. 261 
 
 round in the opposite direction was the Bay of Salerno, and 
 between it and us all these mountains which had been my 
 home for the last two months, and with the outlines of which 
 I was now so familiar. A little to the west of north was 
 Mount Vesuvius, and a little more to the west, and farther 
 off, was Ischia. To the northeast were the rugged heights 
 of the Basilicata, and to the south the lofty mountains of 
 Calabria. The River Sele, near its source, presented the 
 appearance of a little silver thread that ran to the south 
 through the plain, and at last lost itself in a large lake that 
 lay glistening with the reflection of the setting sun ; from 
 this ran another river to the westward, which passed to the 
 south of the Salerno Mountains, and, uniting with another 
 branch that runs from the southward, forms the large river 
 which we crossed between Battipaglia and Pa3stum. There 
 was a town a little to the southeast, on the other side of the 
 plain, and another some way to the south, near the tremen- 
 dous precipices in which the mountains of Avellino seemed 
 to terminate toward the east ; and to the south of the lake, 
 in the far distance, appeared a very large town. 
 
 This view gave me a thorough insight into the topog- 
 raphy of all this part of Southern Italy, and I recommend all 
 those who intend to make a new map of Italy to ascend this 
 mountain, and not to take for granted that the old maps are 
 correct. I have not been able to find a single one that gives 
 the least idea of the correct position of these mountains and 
 plains. The brigands were amazed as I pointed out all the 
 places to them, and eagerly inquired how I could know the 
 directions, being a foreigner, and never having been in this 
 part before. I told them that any boy in England could do 
 the same who had been taught at school ; that the setting 
 sun gave the points of the compass, and all the rest was a 
 matter of course. "E motto talento" was the remark of all ;
 
 262 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 but the conversation was suddenly stopped by an apparition 
 a very little way from us. We saw a great gaunt figure, 
 with long ears, looking at us intently. "A wolf! a wolf!" 
 was whispered round ; and, without moving, we all looked 
 at our visitor. At last Generoso got too excited, and ran 
 toward it, intending to have a shot at it ; but Manzo for- 
 bade him ; and at the sound of a human voice the beast 
 disappeared. I asked if wolves were common in these parts, 
 and was told that there were several about, especially in 
 winter, and that they carry off many sheep and lambs. We 
 soon saw the wolf again, trotting along the ridge on our 
 left, about half a mile off. He did not go farther, but sat up 
 again on his haunches, and did not take his eyes off us. We 
 looked at him through the telescope, and a savage beast he 
 appeared. At last, after sitting quiet for ten minutes, he 
 jumped from stone to stone, coming toward us; but we 
 soon lost sight of him, and did not see him again. He evi- 
 dently wished to pass in our direction, probably in search 
 of water. 
 
 It was considered a most fortunate omen by the brigands ; 
 for who, they said, are greater wolves than we are ? and 
 they all determined to call this place Lup 1 a Lup, as they 
 expressed it in their barbarous dialect. I noticed here a 
 pair of ring ouzels, which kept flying from rock to rock ; 
 also two jays, which flew screaming past us. 
 
 When it grew sufficiently dark, we descended over the 
 loose stones. It was blowing rather hard, and I had to tie 
 my cap on with a handkerchief to prevent it from being 
 blown away. The brigands were most anxious that I should 
 put on my cloak, on account of the cold ; but I found it so 
 much in my way going down steep places, that I generously 
 lent it to one of them who was without one. I found it 
 most difficult to keep pace with them, for, as I said, they ran
 
 Diary of Mr. Mbens, July 17 to 22. 263 
 
 down the mountain sides like goats. At last, after some 
 hours' work, we came to cultivated land, and we ran down 
 full pace. Then I could outstrip them, for I was not afraid 
 of the loose stones. At the bottom we passed over a good 
 deal of laud covered with rye which was nearly ripe, and, 
 as I went along, I plucked several ears, which I put in my 
 pockets. At last we came to where the mountain stream 
 had cut a deep course in the solid rock, where, after rain, it 
 ran thirty feet below the level of the adjacent ground. "We 
 had some difficulty in getting down to the bottom, and, after 
 walking a little way, found several pools of water which had 
 not yet evaporated. It was not at all good, but we drank 
 it eagerly, for we had been walking some time, and had noth- 
 ing to drink for over ten hours. We walked on, over the 
 polished stone and dried mud brought down from the mount- 
 ain sides, and passed down perpendicular places the tops of 
 which were scooped out by the rapid winter torrent. 
 
 At last we came to a place by the side of a giant trunk 
 of a tree, which showed the force of the water that had 
 carried it down such a way from where it grew. Here a 
 fire was to be made, to cook two legs of mutton that the 
 provident Lorenzo had hidden from the harpies in the morn- 
 ing. Wood was collected, and, contrary to my usual custom, 
 I assisted in the work, and, sitting on the large stem, broke 
 off pieces from the parts that had become decayed by time. 
 But, when all was ready, it was discovered, to our great dis- 
 may, that there were no matches, for they had used the last 
 one in lighting their pipes in the afternoon. But the old 
 hands knew a trick or two, and obtained fire from a percus- 
 sion cap in the following way : Some tow was rubbed in 
 their hands, and a little gunpowder from a cartridge sprink- 
 led among it. A needle was then passed through this, and 
 the inside of the cap was scratched with the point of it.
 
 264 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 After a few minutes the cap exploded, and the ignited tow 
 was carefully blown to spread the smouldering sparks. The 
 tow was then covered with dry leaves, and, after a gentle 
 fanning with small twigs, it was fairly blown upon, and a 
 blaze appeared. In a few minutes the meat was roasting on 
 spits. Some bushes grew by the side of the great log which 
 was at least from three to four feet in diameter, and on each 
 side rose the white rock inclosing the rugged bed of the 
 torrent, while above us was a lovely sky, with the stars 
 shining, as they know how to shine in a southern clime, all 
 the brighter from there being no moon. 
 
 Around the fire, illuminated by its blaze, were Manzo and 
 his men, all watching with intense interest the preparation 
 of their meal. When it was ready the others wanted, as 
 usual, to stint me in my allowance ; but Manzo interfered, 
 and gave me twice as much as any one else, and reading 
 them a lecture the while for not treating me more kindly. 
 We had no bread ; but I had got used to anything or noth- 
 ing now. The great thing was to get something, however 
 little it might be. The captain now appealed to me to know 
 when the moon would rise, for it was too dark to think of 
 moving without great necessity. I referred to my little six- 
 penny Letts's Diary that I had with me when captured, and 
 in which I wrote my notes, and told him about two hours 
 before day. We then lay down in the river bed on the hard 
 stones, and soon fell asleep. When I was kicked up by 
 Scope, the moon was high and shining brightly. We left 
 the river, and were soon ascending again, and in a couple of 
 hours came to a halt in a thick wood, where we waited all 
 day for the rest of the band. 
 
 July 18. I had saved a cubic inch of meat; but, with the 
 exception of this and the ears of rye I had in my pocket, 
 I had nothing to eat or drink all day. I was made to write
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 1 7 to 22. 265 
 
 more letters to-day, and was still compelled to demand 
 50,000 ducats, notwithstanding all my entreaties and re- 
 monstrances. " Write as I tell you," being the only re- 
 sponse I could get from the captain. He told me, however, 
 that when the next messengers arrived from Giffoni perhaps 
 he might write for a little less ; there had been a grand talk 
 a few days before among the band, and there was a pretty 
 general consent to take 30,000 ducats, but they still had the 
 idea that the government would have to pay for me, and 
 firmly believed that all the money was at Salerno, and they 
 expected it all when the messenger arrived. They little 
 knew what use I had made of the permission to insert a 
 few lines in English in my last letter. If they had only 
 known that I had requested my friends to pay the whole 
 sum ! How I longed to write just one line more to tell my 
 friends that perhaps 30,000 ducats would be accepted after 
 all, but not one word would Manzo allow ; he carefully read 
 over every line to guard against it. 
 
 Early in the morning, when all the men were asleep, I 
 saw Manzo sitting up and writing a letter, and as he clearly 
 did not wish me to know any thing about it, I pretended to 
 be asleep. 
 
 About the middle of the day we started off again, and 
 made our way through the thick wood and fern. After 
 about two hours walking we came to a deep gully, down 
 the rocky sides of which we descended with great difficul- 
 ty, and then climbed up a steep bank covered with the dead 
 leaves of many past autumns. Here I was ordered to lie 
 down, which I did with difficulty, resting my feet against 
 one of the trees growing there. These sloping banks I dis- 
 liked immensely ; many a time I had to sleep on them, and 
 all night I would keep slipping down. I found it impossi- 
 ble to manage the operation as they all did. I firmly be- 
 
 M
 
 266 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 lieve that any brigand would sleep soundly on a bank at an 
 inclination of 80 degrees, and he would hang on by one el- 
 bow, and never move all night. 
 
 After being here about an hour, a rustling of the leaves 
 and a snapping of dry twigs told us all (for by this time 
 my hearing had grown quite as sharp as my captors) that 
 some one was near. " Sono Christian!" was whispered 
 round (for among the brigands every human being goes by 
 the name of a Christian) ; their guns were all pointed in 
 the direction from which the noise came, and the captain 
 and Justi crept noiselessly across the gully, and hid them- 
 selves in bushes on the other side. The comers proved to 
 be twenty goats accompanied by a boy, who was pounced 
 upon by Manzo and Justi when he reached their place of 
 concealment. The poor little fellow was very frightened 
 at first, but soon recovered, and all three sat down, while 
 the boy was carefully questioned by the two brigands. 
 They were too far off for me to hear what passed, but I 
 could see the little fellow gesticulating with his arms, most 
 probably assuring them that he would do all they required, 
 when they threatened to cut his throat should he attempt 
 to betray them. This scene always takes place when the 
 brigands fall in with peasants whom they do not know, es- 
 pecially in a strange district such as that in which we had 
 been for the last month. The number of troops in their 
 old haunts about Giffoni and Acerno had, as I have said be- 
 fore, rendered it necessary for them to seek new quarters. 
 Two or three times the shepherd boy ran off on an errand 
 to procure bread and meat, and as often was he recalled 
 and rethreatened. I presume the goats would have been 
 missed, and the captain was unwilling to let it be known in 
 the plain below that we were in the neighborhood ; for the 
 goats are taken down twice a day to be milked at the houses
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 17 to 22. 267 
 
 where milk is required. When the goats and the goatherd 
 had left this part, we went on a little farther to the east, 
 and found a level place, which we made our head-quarters 
 for some time. 
 
 Two or three of the men went away, and returned in an 
 hour Avith a black sheep and a goat : these were taken a lit- 
 tle higher up the gully where we had rested, and a fire was 
 speedily made with the aid of a percussion cap, as before. 
 The ground was covered with a very deep coating of leaves, 
 which were all removed before the fire was lighted, for fear 
 of their making a smoke ; and before it was dark both these 
 poor animals had disappeared down the throats of the de- 
 tachment of the band, consisting of eight persons only ! It 
 was fearful to see them eat this mass of meat without 
 bread. Manzo was most pressing that I should eat as they 
 did ; for, notwithstanding the abundance, some of them 
 grudged every morsel I ate, and he had to lecture them 
 again on the way they treated the poor foreigner. " Is he 
 not a Christian ?" said he to Pasquale ; "why should he not 
 eat as well as you ?" This Pasquale was one of Cerino's 
 band, and did not participate in the ransom money which 
 was paid for Mr. Aynsley and me, and he had not at all ap- 
 proved of the way in which he had been hunted about with 
 the others by the soldiers, half starved for so many weeks. 
 In his answer to the captain, he blamed the latter for not 
 having cut off" my ears long ago, as he would have done 
 had I been an Italian. " Send his ears to his friends at 
 once ; and if that does not bring the money, send his beard 
 with his chin attached to it." Some of the others agreed 
 with him, and there was an animated debate on the subject, 
 all in my hearing. This, perhaps, was a good way to teach 
 me the Neapolitan dialect, for I could not afford to lose a 
 single word ; and every now and then I had to feel my ears,
 
 268 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 to make sure they were still my own property. I told them 
 that they had better not touch me, for the general would 
 kill all their relatives who were in prison should a hair of 
 my head be hurt ; and, to turn the conversation, I asked 
 Manzo what he would do with Victor Emmanuel, should 
 he by chance fall into his hands? They all chuckled at 
 such an idea, and Manzo declared that he would have ten 
 millions of ducats, and then kiU him. To Francesco II., if 
 they caught him, they said they would give a good dinner, 
 and then release him. 
 
 Carmine Amendolo had brought back with him a very 
 curious pipe that he had obtained from the shepherds. It 
 was made by them of wood, quaintly carved, and was 
 brought to me that I might make several like it, for they 
 had the idea I could do any thing in that line. I excused 
 myself on account of the smallness of my knife, and the 
 want of the right sort of wood. This pipe ultimately came 
 into my possession after my liberation, being presented to 
 me by Mr. Holme, who obtained it from the officer who 
 captured Amendolo, near Giffoni.* 
 
 When it grew dark, Manzo and all but Pavone, Antonio, 
 and one other, went off with the letters to Giffoni, leaving 
 strict orders that, if the rest of the band should arrive, they 
 were to go on at once without stopping, to join him at an 
 appointed place near Acerno. The valley to the south of us 
 ran the whole way between the mountains to that place. 
 I had seen Manzo point this out a day or two before, from 
 
 * Apropos of pipes, I may mention that I had requested that a smart 
 
 pipe should be sent to me that I might present it to Manzo. H. C 
 
 accordingly fonvarded one from Salerno ; but Manzo intercepted it, and 
 nppropriated it at once, thus saving me the trouble of making a speech on 
 presenting it to him. He did not, however, let me know that he had 
 taken it.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 17 to 22. 269 
 
 the top of the high mountain where we had seen the 
 wolf. 
 
 After they had gone, we were all four sitting close to- 
 gether, when I noticed Scope with the point of his gun 
 turned in the direction of my head. I objected to this, and 
 told him that it was evident he was not an old brigand, for 
 he did not know how to handle a gun. He could not bear 
 being laughed at, so for fun I told him that I did not be- 
 lieve he could hit a haystack a few yards off, and offered to 
 let him shoot at me a hundred yards off as often as he liked, 
 if he would allow me just one shot at him first at double 
 the distance. I added that he would be firing at me all 
 day for nothing, but that I should kill him the first time. 
 He was speechless with rage, while his companions were 
 roaring with laughter at him ; but one of them put his fin- 
 ger on his lips as a sign to me not to chaff him any more. 
 All poor Scope could answer in return was to recommend 
 me to go to sleep, which was the equivalent in their lan- 
 guage for a hint to shut up. 
 
 By-and-by the rest of the band arrived ; but, instead of 
 bringing the expected supply of food with them, they had 
 eaten it all up on the road, and they were in a great rage 
 at finding the captain gone without them, and refused to 
 go farther that night. Pavone and Sentonio had a regular 
 quarrel on the subject, but it all ended by our going a lit- 
 tle way to the north, and lying down to sleep. They had 
 brought the news that a very large force was concentrated 
 round Giffoni, and that, instead of being, as usual, on the 
 plains, the troops were on all the mountains. 
 
 This was important news, for it placed Manzo and those 
 with him in great danger, on account of their knowing 
 nothing about it. I placed my wide-awake, and the stick 
 that had been my friend all the time, against a tree at my
 
 270 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 feet; but in the morning, when I was roused an hour be- 
 fore sunrise in order to get more into the thick of the wood, 
 I could see nothing of my stick. Pavone looked round for 
 it, but without success, and I was obliged to leave the place 
 without it. I found out afterward that Scope, in revenge 
 for my having turned the laugh against him, had thrown it 
 away ; for he, like all the others, knew that I valued it, as I 
 had cut an inscription on it. I generally put it by my side, 
 but to-night I had omitted to do so. It was just like losing 
 an old friend, and I did not get over the loss of it for two 
 or three days. Justi told me all about it, and said he would 
 cut me a better one. 
 
 Sentonio, and all except eight, now went to overtake the 
 captain, but that night's delay on their part kept me in the 
 mountains much longer than I should have been had Manzo 
 known the precautions the soldiers were taking to prevent 
 the money, which they knew had been sent to Giffoni, from 
 reaching the brigands; for, although the civil authorities 
 knew every thing my friends were doing, and professed to 
 do all they could for us, allowing Signor Visconti to under- 
 take the task of forwarding the money, the military author- 
 ities were still determined that the ransom should not reach 
 the brigands, and I am afraid it gave them infinite vexation 
 to find out that at last it passed through their lines safely 
 into the brigands' hands. During the next two days three 
 more sheep were eaten. The sheep in this district were all 
 very fat, and the brigands' grease-pouches (which they all 
 carried for greasing their boots and shoes) were all filled ; 
 and two or three little baskets of racotta were brought up 
 from the shepherds. This seemed to me most delicious, 
 having eaten nothing but meat for some days. 
 
 Just before daybreak on the morning of the 20th of July 
 there was a great alarm from the noise of several persons
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 17 to 22. 271 
 
 coming up the mountain from below, but on their giving 
 the proper signal they were admitted past the sentinels; 
 the rustling of the leaves in the distance awoke me with 
 the rest, and I saw four men, all with guns, approach us ; 
 one had a cap on that had belonged to a captain of the na- 
 tional guard, and military trowsers with a red stripe. I 
 could see at once that these were members of another band 
 of brigands, and was much amused at seeing the enthusi- 
 astic way in which they were received by my guardians, 
 who kissed them all round. They had brought up with 
 them a kind of candle made by putting a piece of linen rag 
 inside some fat ; this was lighted, and they all sat around, 
 discussing the last news. I was introduced to them as the 
 Inglese about whom had been so much talk in the country, 
 and which had of c'ourse reached their ears. 
 
 The remains of the evening's meal of meat was brought 
 to them in the caldaja which the shepherds here had been 
 forced to lend to the band, but unfortunately it had been 
 put close to an ants' nest, and the ants had found their way 
 to the meat and covered it by thousands, so that the pieces 
 required much shaking and rubbing before they were eat- 
 able. 
 
 There was no more sleep that night, and many were the 
 stories told by the hosts and the visitors. These four men 
 turned out to be the remains of Giardullo's band ; all the 
 others, after the surrender of their captain, having followed 
 his example.* There was a great deal of talk about me 
 and the two Viscontis, who had paid their ransoms ; and 
 the new-comers by name Carmanocchi, Carmine, Frances- 
 co, and another recounted the exploits of their late band, 
 and how they had been surprised in a grotto. Francesco, 
 
 * The troops had shot and wounded seven, as I before related (see p. 
 242).
 
 272 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 who wore the captain's hat, told how they had taken pris- 
 oners a captain, lieutenant, and ensign of the national guard 
 all at once, as they were driving along the road ; they had 
 carbines with them, which, with their uniforms, etc., were 
 taken possession of at once. They were released after pay- 
 ing a ransom. 
 
 They also told how one day they were walking along 
 with three captives, and they had fallen in with the troops, 
 who immediately fired, and killed, not one of the brigands, 
 but one of the gaktntuomini ! This anecdote was told to 
 me with great glee. These men were much jollier and 
 kinder to me than the men of Manzo's and Cerino's bands, 
 and always shared with me their portions of food if I had 
 none of my own. From what they told me, I concluded 
 that Giardullo's band was satisfied with much smaller ran- 
 soms than Manzo demanded, the figure being generally from 
 5000 to 8000 ducats. The new-comers were well supplied 
 with powder, caps, and balls, dividing the percussion caps 
 with those who wanted them. I asked them how they 
 knew we were in this part, and ascertained that they had 
 learned it from the shepherds, who communicate the move- 
 ments of the brigands to one another with astonishing ra- 
 pidity. They knew this part of the country well, and di- 
 rected my guardians to go to some shepherds two or three 
 miles from us to the southwest, as our other shepherd-friends 
 had refused to bring any more racotta, or even to let us 
 have any more sheep. 
 
 All but three went foraging, and, after a good meal of 
 milk and bread at the place where the sheep were, brought 
 back a little pail of milk and a round loaf of bread for us. 
 The bread was sopped in the milk, and I, with the three 
 brigands, sat round the pail and made a good breakfast, 
 though at the early hour of four o'clock in the morning.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 17 to 22. 273 
 
 July 21. This was the last food I was destined to taste 
 for three days. During the night we were kept awake by 
 a slight noise as of some one walking three or four hundred 
 yards off; this was heard at intervals for two hours, and at 
 last was ascribed to some wild animal. In the afternoon I 
 most fortunately cut another walking-stick of sycamore, 
 Justi not having been able to find a holly-tree for me, whu-h 
 wood makes the lightest and best sticks. Though heavy 
 at first, it soon got lighter as the sap dried up. During the 
 day Manzo and his men returned suddenly, and I saw at 
 once something was wrong they had not been able to 
 communicate with my friends at Giffoni. They were in a 
 dreadful state, having been walking the last three days and 
 nights incessantly, without having had any thing to eat, and 
 they were of course grievously disappointed at our having 
 no food for them, and vented their feelings accordingly by 
 abusing and threatening me. Their eyes were red and glis- 
 tening from the feverish state in which they were from 
 over-fatigue and want of food ; their clothing, too, was very 
 much torn, and covered with dirt and dust, and the majori- 
 ty of them were very foot-sore. For a long time I was 
 afraid to ask them any questions, going on the principle of 
 " least said the soonest mended," especially as the question 
 of cutting off my ears, etc., was again discussed. At last I 
 learned that there were 4000 soldiers concentrated round 
 Giffoni, and posts on all the mountains, so that the brigands 
 were unable to remain near the town ; and besides this, the 
 peasants would not provide any bread. Acerno and Giffo- 
 ni were described as depopulated. 
 
 I farther heard that Lorenzo, Amendolo, Vaccara, and two 
 others, had been left behind to endeavor to get the money, 
 and that they were down in the plain inside the cordon of 
 the military force. My friend Justi told me to cheer up, 
 
 M.2
 
 274 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 for he had no doubt they would be able to get the money, 
 as my letters had been sent in safety to Signer Visconti's 
 house. In one of these I had asked my friends to send me 
 some American tobacco, in order to soothe the minds of 
 some of the brigands, who wished to hasten the arrival of 
 the money by depriving me of my ears. 
 
 (I presume these letters, with one to Signer Visconti ask- 
 ing him to send on the money deposited in his house for 
 that purpose, were all lost or destroyed by the messenger 
 who carried them, for the five men above-mentioned could 
 produce no authority from me to receive the money from 
 Signer Visconti, and after a few days they were all cap- 
 tured, as is related elsewhere.) 
 
 In the afternoon a wood-cutter was commissioned to bring 
 up bread to the shepherd's fire, and thirty ducats given to 
 him for that purpose. At dusk the band went toward the 
 shepherd's station, and when we came to the place where 
 my stick had been thrown away, I was left behind under 
 the charge of Pavone, Sentonio, and Scope. Sentonio grum- 
 bled much at being left, for he had been to Giffoni with the 
 captain, and had not eaten any thing for more than three 
 days ; he stipulated that a good supply of milk and bread 
 should be brought back. Those who went left their capotes 
 with us, and we settled down for two or three hours' sleep ; 
 a long march was in store when the band returned from 
 the shepherd's. About a quarter of an hour after they left 
 us, they having descended into a little valley and ascended 
 the opposite hill, we heard the dreaded cry "A te cW e la?" 
 the challenge of the Italian soldier and immediately two 
 or three shots were fired, the new-comer in the captain's 
 cap firing first, Manzo coming next in order. After this 
 there was a volley from the troops, and then the firing be- 
 came general, all their balls coming straight in our direc-
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 17 to 22. 275 
 
 tion. After this I distinctly heard the "Avanti, avanti" 
 of the Italian officers, encouraging their men to the attack. 
 We all rose and took shelter behind the trees, for the balls 
 were unpleasantly near our heads. The engagement lasted 
 about a quarter of an hour, and then the firing gradually 
 ceased, a few dropping shots only being heard afterward. 
 Pavone and Sentonio soon made up their minds to be off, 
 talking much about the tradimento that had evidently taken 
 place ; and, leaving every thing behind them, drove me be- 
 fore them in the opposite direction to that whence I had 
 heard the voices of the Italian officers. 
 
 "We traveled toward the north at first, then eastward 
 down the mountain side, as my keepers hoped there to fall 
 in with the rest of the band, who were supposed to have 
 run in that direction. We were in a desperate plight and 
 without money, and I now began to be very apprehensive 
 lest we should not fall in with the others, as I knew well 
 the vengeful feeling entertained toward me by the men who 
 had charge of me, now that they were excited by the recent 
 skirmish. Backward and forward we walked for hours, 
 hunting the ground like pointers, but nothing was to be 
 seen of our game, and it was impossible to make signals, 
 because the soldiers might be near. At last Sentonio grew 
 almost mad with despair and hunger, and two or three 
 times ran at me, flinging his arms about in the wildest man- 
 ner, and tearing his hair out in handfuls. I kept as far 
 from him as I could ; but Pavone, who was afraid of losing 
 me, made me keep close between him and his maddened 
 comrade. I fully expected to be murdered every moment ; 
 but, after a time, Sentonio calmed down and became almost 
 childish in his manner. After a consultation we directed 
 our course to the south, walking over the roughest rocks ; 
 and at last descending to a stream by a most difficult route,
 
 276 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 I drank a quantity of water, which had to suffice me for the 
 three next days, during which we could get neither water 
 nor snow. 
 
 After crossing the stream, we passed a short way along 
 a mule-path, and then walking through some standing wheat 
 and rye, with which I filled my pockets, soon began to as- 
 cend a very steep mountain. Sentonio was speedily so 
 worn out from his three days' walk to and from Giffoni that 
 he could go no farther, and all three of us lay down. I was 
 so tired with ten hours' walking that I did not unroll the 
 heavy capote, but, resting my head on it, was instantly 
 asleep. In the morning of the 22d I was so stiff from the 
 exposure to the night air after walking that I could hardly 
 move ; but the stiff climbing, at which I was compelled to 
 set to, soon relaxed my muscles. Sentonio was very weak, 
 and could only go a short way, and then he had to rest 
 a while. We passed some great rocks and large caves, and 
 after two or three hours rested in a small grotto for some 
 considerable time. 
 
 I was placed inside, while Sentonio and Pavone laid their 
 carcasses across the entrance, side by side, and Scope sat a 
 little on one side, out of our sight, keeping guard. The 
 two former soon fell fast asleep ; and Scope took off his 
 shirt for the purpose of freeing it from vermin, having 
 moved two or three yards away from his gun in order to 
 get into the sun. I could not go to sleep, so I amused my- 
 self watching the beautiful butterflies of many species that 
 kept flying about the face of the limestone rock, when sud- 
 denly a new thought struck me. My eye fell on the guns 
 of the two men sleeping in front of me; one was a double- 
 barreled one and the other single, and both were lying 
 within reach of my arm without my moving. Here was 
 the first time that I had met with any thing like an oppor-
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 17 to 22. 277 
 
 t unity of escaping ; but, to take advantage of it, I must have 
 shot two men, and then have been ready to shoot the third 
 if he attempted to move. It was easy of execution, and I 
 could not fail, there being no more of the band near, and I 
 knew the way to the path we had crossed not very far off, 
 which led to the town a little to the eastward. It was very 
 tempting, and I set to work deliberately to think it over ; 
 but the more I considered, the more my mind revolted from 
 shooting in cold blood two sleeping men, both of whom had 
 always treated me as kindly as their circumstances would 
 permit, and the probability of having to shoot a third 
 though perhaps I should have had less compunction in 
 his case than in that of the other two. I also thought that, 
 sooner or later, our ransom would be paid, and that my life 
 was not in immediate danger. If it had been, it would have 
 been very different, and probably I should not have hesita- 
 ted, but should have felt myself fully justified in doing any 
 thing. I also thought of the remorse I should feel after- 
 ward if my plan was successful. It is a very different mat- 
 ter to kill a man or two in the excitement of a regular hand- 
 to-hand fight, but I could not bring myself to do this sort 
 of cold-blooded murder. 
 
 So, to divert my mind, I took out my Prayer-book and 
 read the Psalms, when very curiously, and as if to guide 
 me I came across the passage, "Deliver me from blood- 
 guiltiness, O Lord !" This struck me so forcibly that it ap- 
 peared to me as if sent for my special guidance, and it con- 
 firmed me in the determination to which I had come. What 
 a relief this was to me ! The half hour I had been ponder- 
 iug over the matter was, I think, one of my hardest trials, 
 and thankful I am that I did not give way to impulse, and 
 blaze away without reflection. 
 
 I next amused myself by picking out the grains of wheat
 
 278 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 and rye from the ears I had plucked, and ate them thankful- 
 ly with the crumbs from the bottom of my pockets, which 
 I had carefully to examine in order to separate the earth 
 and dust there was mixed with them. Some cattle now 
 passed quite close to us : this woke up the sleepers.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 22 to 31. 279 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 DIARY OF MR. MOENS, JULY 22 TO 31. 
 
 My Guardians are without Money. A bad Look-out. My Penknife put 
 to a new Use. Meat and Fuel, but no Fire. Necessity is the Mother 
 of Invention. The Attack of the Soldiers explained. Failure when 
 Success seemed certain. Scarcity of Water. An Attempt at Bribery. 
 A cheerless Spot. They play me a shabby Trick. Manzo arrives 
 again. An Abode assigned to me for the next Fortnight. Traces of 
 Giardullo's precious Tenancy. An Attempt at Washing. No Food for 
 three Days. A little raw rancid Fat. A Bone. I feed in a decidedly 
 canine Manner. Two more days without Food. I am at the last Ex- 
 tremity. Great Hardships. Manzo joins us again. I write once more 
 at his Dictation. Cerino's Discomfiture. 
 
 July 22. WE recommenced our weary way. It was only 
 possible to go slowly, on account of the weak state of Sen- 
 tonio, who required rest every ten minutes; tighter and 
 tighter he drew his belt,* and every time he groaned over 
 the number of holes in the strap outside the buckle. He 
 did not expect to be able to procure any food for the next 
 two days. All hope of finding the band in this part of the 
 country was gone, and his pluck began to give way. Pa- 
 vone told me that they knew the point for which the band 
 would make, but it was a long way off, and there was no 
 chance of meeting them before Sunday, whereas to-day was 
 only Friday. 
 
 * This was their way of screwing themselves up when suffering from fa- 
 tigue or hunger.
 
 280 English Travelers and Italian 
 
 They did not like being without any money ; so, to cheer 
 up Sentonio, I told him I had a Napoleon and a half, for I 
 did not like the idea of his getting desperate, remembering 
 his frantic state the night before. A complete change came 
 over his face, and he said they would soon get food now 
 that there was money, and, curiously enough, I heard the 
 tinkle of sheep higher up the mountain. My keepers told 
 me there were none there, but in a minute or two they too 
 heard the sound clearly, and determined to have a sheep at 
 all cost. They asked me for the money ; I gave it to them, 
 but did not tell them I had another Napoleon in reserve for 
 another occasion. Scope was sent on ahead in the direc- 
 tion of the sheep, and we followed more slowly. At last 
 we came to them, and I was made to sit down while Pa- 
 vone and Scope bargained for the sheep. Pavone milked a 
 goat into the top of his wide-awake, but he would not give 
 me any of the milk, though I was suffering much from 
 thirst. The shepherd came down with a sheep to us, and 
 my half Napoleon was given to him as a complimento, and 
 I got into a scrape because I looked at him. Very few 
 minutes were lost before the poor sheep was killed and 
 skinned, my tiny penknife being borrowed for the latter 
 operation, because it was sharper than the other knife they 
 had. 
 
 But, when all was ready, the discovery was made that 
 there were no matches, and no needle to do the percussion 
 cap trick with. Scope was sent back to the shepherd, but 
 lie could not help us. We all looked at each other in a 
 most despairing manner, when suddenly the thought struck 
 me that my penknife was of excellent steel, and would do 
 as well as, or better than a needle. They shook their heads 
 at my idea, but I told them to try, and in a few minutes we 
 had a blazing fire ; it was an exposed position, but hunger
 
 Diary of Mr. Moem, July 22 to 31. 281 
 
 was not to be denied. As a great favor, I helped to collect 
 wood, and we sat round the fire watching the roasting of 
 the meat. Pavone gave me the heart as a treat, and we 
 made a good meal, that is, as good as we could without 
 bread or water. As soon as we were satisfied, the fire put 
 out, and the remainder of the sheep stowed away in their 
 pockets, they hurried from the spot, fearing lest the soldiers 
 might have observed the fire. It was very lucky finding 
 this flock of sheep, for they were on their way down the 
 mountain to go to the water, as they do every other day, 
 and had we been ten minutes later we should have missed 
 our supply of food. "We went on much more cheerily now, 
 and in a short time came to a place where we had a good 
 view of the direction we were to take. Up the valley to 
 the west there was a great smoke rising out of a wood, and 
 this was set down as coming from a fire made by the sol- 
 diers (this I learned afterward was the case). It was a 
 lovely view facing the west. We saw on the right the 
 mountain of Calabritto, where we had passed the last week, 
 its gentle slope down to the valley clothed in many places 
 with wooded clumps; we saw the place where the fight 
 with the soldiers had taken place the evening before ; the 
 shepherd had been questioned about it, and he told the 
 brigands that none of their party had been hurt, but that 
 two of the soldiers had been wounded, and that the last 
 shots came from the soldiers firing at Guange at a dis- 
 tance as he crossed the river, and that he stopped in the 
 middle and returned the compliment with both barrels. 
 The brigands, after the first firing, made their way down 
 the mountain. 
 
 The wood-cutter who had received thirty ducats to take 
 up bread thought it better to send up a hundred soldiers in- 
 stead of the loaves, and these hundred men were stationed
 
 282 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 in three companies : one at the flock of sheep, and one on 
 each side, so that the brigands could not fail of falling into 
 the ambuscade. After hearing the details from Pavone, 
 which he had keard from the shepherd (and which I found 
 correct on my arrival at Giffoni after my liberation), I was 
 much astonished at the band getting off so easily. This 
 shows the difficulty there is in putting down brigandage 
 with the military force, for all turned out exactly as had 
 been expected, the band walking right up to the lion's 
 mouth, and yet the lion was obliged to be content with a 
 roar or two, without inflicting any injury on his intended 
 victim. 
 
 The valley ran a very long way between the mountains, 
 and in the extreme distance over it I could discern the sea. 
 To the south of the valley there were dense forests cloth- 
 ing all the slope of the mountains. 
 
 The brigands pointed out the way we had to go toward 
 the S.W. It did not look at all tempting forest and up- 
 hill work all the way for miles and miles. By midnight we 
 had gone a long way, suffering dreadfully from thirst, and 
 not finding any water or snow in the deep gullies, which 
 were all anxiously examined, and then piously cursed by 
 Sentonio and the two others for not containing any refresh- 
 ment. 
 
 July 23. We slept for four or five hours, and then Avent 
 on again. Suddenly Scope rushed forward to a hollow rot- 
 ten log, and began to suck up some fostid water that had 
 been left by the last rain days before. I was only just al- 
 lowed to put my lips to it, and was pulled away from it 
 without my being able to get more than a mouthful, but 
 perhaps it was better for me, as the fluid tasted most nau- 
 seously of decayed matter. 
 
 As we walked on I found two or three ripe strawberries,
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 22 to 31. 283 
 
 which were most grateful to my parched mouth, and by- 
 and-by they appeared in great abundance in a lovely glade 
 through which we passed. We spent an hour picking and 
 eating this delicious fruit. At midday we dined on some 
 of the sheep, but no water or snow was obtainable. I tried 
 again to bribe the three men who had charge of me, offer- 
 ing them 3000 ducats, and to obtain a free pardon for them 
 if they would deliver me up to the authorities. Pavone was 
 inclined to listen to me ; but when he consulted Sentonio 
 on the subject, the latter threatened to shoot him if he at- 
 tempted any thing of the kind. 
 
 In the afternoon we arrived at the top of Monte Neve, 
 having been two days and the most of two nights in per- 
 forming this task, and I was informed that the descent to 
 the south was so steep that two hours were sufficient to 
 gain the plain. To our great delight, snow was found here, 
 and, after satisfying our craving thirst, we set large pieces 
 up on slabs of wood left by the woodcutters, and the water 
 trickling down, gave us a good supply. Scope as usual 
 grudged me even the snow, though there was an abund- 
 ance. A flock of sheep passed near, and Sentonio obtained 
 from the shepherd a little tobacco and a tiny piece of maize 
 bread, which he carefully divided among all, giving us just 
 two mouthfuls apiece. 
 
 The forest at the top of the moxmtain was composed of 
 most enormous beeches, standing some little distance from 
 each other. Two or three years ago a great number were 
 felled and left to rot on the ground. In one place there 
 was great difficulty in making our way, as we had to clam- 
 ber over these dead giants. I was not allowed to remain 
 where I could see all the plain below, with the well-known 
 temples at Psestum, and the two streams which united to 
 form the river. But I now knew our position : on the high
 
 284 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 mountain to the south of the mountains of the province of 
 Salerno. Just one month ago I was at the north of the 
 province of Avellino, having traversed all the eastern side 
 of this mountainous district in the mean time. Sentonio 
 kept a look-out to the south, and at about five o'clock sig- 
 naled Pavone to come to him, in order to begin the descent. 
 Here all the trees had been cut down, on account of the fa- 
 cility of bringing down the wood, and the sfumps which 
 had been left in the ground were all bleached white. It 
 was one of the wildest scenes I have ever seen. A little 
 lower down, at some time or other, a fire had burnt all the 
 branches and bark, and had left the trunks of the trees 
 standing. There was not a leaf to be seen, and a strong 
 wind driving the clouds along, enveloped us and every 
 thing about us in a dense mist. 
 
 It was desperately cold work waiting for a thick cloud 
 to conceal us as we crept from place to place. Great cau- 
 tion was exercised at one place, which several baraque 
 showed to be a favorite post of the military force. These 
 baraque had evidently been made some time, and had 
 served for a large number of soldiers. I was much as- 
 tonished at the post being right in the track that led over 
 this mountain. It struck me that if it had been placed a 
 little on one side, out of sight, and with sentries care- 
 fully concealed, there would have been a much greater 
 chance of surprising the brigands ; but on every occasion 
 that I saw these posts, they were placed in similar posi- 
 tions to this, as if with the view of warning the brigands 
 off. 
 
 The soldiers also had evidently made enormous fires, 
 which would alone have betrayed the position of the troops, 
 and had told all the peasants and shepherds in the district 
 where the force was, and these immediately gave informa-
 
 Diary ofMr.Moens, July 22 to 31. 285 
 
 tion to the brigands. I found a piece of a Pungolo* pub- 
 lished during June, thus announcing when the soldiers had 
 been in this place. We did not descend down the mount- 
 ain directly, but edged along toward the west. 
 
 The night was terribly cold, and early in the morning of 
 the 24th we made our way down to some little hills below. 
 The side of the great mountain was clothed with the most 
 lovely flowefs, a large red lily being very prominent, and I 
 recognized many of the flowers that adorn our gardens in 
 summer. Pavone told me that they expected to find the 
 captain and band here to-day, with Lorenzo and the four 
 others who had been left behind near Giffoni to get the 
 money. 
 
 While lying on the ground this morning, I was thrown 
 into a great state of excitement by Sentonio telling me that 
 he had agreed with Pavone to escape with me if I would 
 give them 2000 ducats, and that they would give Scope the 
 slip. They told me to write a letter to the consul telling 
 him to send a steamer to embark us on Thursday night op- 
 posite the Temples, and that the steamer was to throw up 
 a rocket, and that we would answer by making a fire. I 
 wrote all this in pencil and gave him the letter, which he 
 said he would send to Naples by a priest, who was a friend 
 of Pavone. I did not know what to make of it all : the 
 plan was quite practicable if they would trust me, and they 
 might have told me an untruth about meeting the band. 
 Sentonio now left us for an hour, and all this time I was full 
 of hopes of seeing my wife at Naples in four or five days ; 
 but all these sweet illusions were dashed to the ground by 
 my hearing Sentonio making the well-known signal of 
 " Wow-wow, wow-wow," and hearing a response from the 
 side of another mountain some little way off I now saw 
 * A newspaper published every evening at Naples.
 
 286 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 that they had been making fun of me, and asked Pavone 
 for the letter which I had seen him put in his pocket, but 
 he told me that he had given it to Sentonio, and I did not 
 recover it until three weeks afterward, when I snatched it 
 out of the hands of Antonio and tore it into little pieces, 
 and I found that it had gone the round of the band. 
 
 Great was the delight of all three of my guardians, who 
 immediately made me follow them toward the direction of 
 the response, and we hurried down and met Manzo, and all 
 those who had fallen in with the soldiers as they were going 
 to the shepherd's. 
 
 Rocco only was missing, and I found out afterward that 
 he had been separated from the rest, and had given himself 
 up to the authorities. They told us that, after firing for a 
 short time, they all ran down the mountain to the river, and 
 that the soldiers had not followed them far. They then 
 went to another flock, and made the shepherds give them 
 four sheep and a quantity of milk. The night we were look- 
 ing for them I had heard in the distance the dogs barking 
 and the sheep all running together, and told Pavone that I 
 was sure that Manzo was safe, and getting sheep. This is 
 a good hint for the troops, for the dogs always bark at first 
 when the brigands come to the flock ; and when the sheep 
 are caught they always run together, and this is easily de- 
 tected by the peculiar noise the bells make when they do 
 so. Manzo and all were delighted at seeing me safe and 
 well, for they feared that I might have been lost or have es- 
 caped during the skirmish with the troops, and many of 
 them shook hands with me. I was glad to see that Manzo 
 was safe, for I trusted to him to secure me against the bru- 
 tality of many in the band ; and I also rejoiced to see the 
 carcasses of two sheep being carried by some of the rascals. 
 They walked boldly along a path by the side of a sparkling
 
 -
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 22 to 31. 289 
 
 stream, though it was daylight, and, striking up a dark ra- 
 vine densely wooded, soon came to a safe place, where a 
 fire was made and the meat roasted. 
 
 After all was consumed, with the exception of two legs, 
 they gave themselves up to songs and merriment.* I was 
 requested to give them a song, and they were greatly as- 
 tonished to hear that singing was not one of my accomplish- 
 ments, for all in Southern Italy are perfect masters in this 
 respect. It was a wild but exceedingly picturesque scene, 
 and would have made an excellent subject for a picture. 
 The next morning early, Manzo, with eight or nine men, 
 took me through some cultivated land, on a little plain be- 
 tween the mountains, to a rugged ridge on the east side of 
 it, one of Giardullo's men acting as guide, for we were in 
 the part of the province they used to infest. We had to 
 cross a stream at the foot of the mountain, and then Manzo 
 pointed out a place where Pavone, Scope, Vicenzio, Malone, 
 and another were to keep me, while Sentonio and Justi 
 were to hide in the mountain, a mile from us on the other 
 side of the plain, to procure what food they could for us. 
 The band was very short of money, and three Napoleons 
 were all that Manzo could leave with them; and he went 
 away to look for the five men near Giffoni, leaving strict in- 
 junctions that no fire was to be lighted where I was kept, 
 and that none of those guarding me were to go foraging, 
 for fear any one should find out where we were, and betray 
 us to the troops. 
 
 It was very hard work climbing up the almost perpendic- 
 ular rock, which was of white crumbling limestone, and at 
 last we reached a little flat ledge concealed by the trees 
 some way up. Here we stopped ; but after the second day 
 a better place was found a little lower down. While Pa- 
 * For words and music of a brigand song, see Appendix G. 
 
 N
 
 290 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 vone and another were looking about for this place, the oth- 
 ers lit a fire to roast some potatoes which they had brought 
 up with them, which they- shared with me, to my great 
 amazement. Pavone was in a great rage with them for 
 lighting the fire, for if any one from below had seen the 
 slightest gleam, it would have betrayed the presence of 
 brigands in this part, which the authorities considered free 
 from them, since the destruction of Giardullo's band. I 
 found out that they had given me some of the potatoes in 
 order that I should not tell about their lighting the fire ; and 
 Pavone, who had seen it from below, would not believe their 
 statement that Scope and Vicenzio had given me any thing 
 until I confirmed it. 
 
 This spot had served Giardullo and his band of thirty 
 men for the same purpose last May, and they had left many 
 traces of their visit. It was a level space, about eight yards 
 long and three wide, with the mountain rising at the back 
 covered with fern and trees, while below a gully ran down 
 the mountain side; two or three trees hid us perfectly, 
 though we could see what was going on below. On each 
 side the former occupants had made little paths by constant 
 passing to and fro for the space of a month, the time they 
 had stopped in this place. A tiny little spring, that never 
 ceased running, kept us supplied with excellent water : as 
 soon as we arrived I busied myself with clearing this out, 
 and supporting a piece of bark with stones, so that the wa- 
 ter ran as if out of a spout. This Scope constantly used to 
 kick down in order to annoy me. A small pagliatta had 
 been made for Giardullo to sleep in during the wet weather 
 in May ; on this had been put some goatskins as a farther 
 protection from the weather. 
 
 Two or three places had been covered with small branch- 
 es and fern, on which his men used to lie, in order to keep
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens> July 22 to 31. 291 
 
 themselves off the wet ground, and another just wide enough 
 for one person, which I was told served as the couch of their 
 prisoner. All these arrangements indicated greater refine- 
 ment than Manzo's band possessed, for never in the wettest 
 weather had they taken the slightest trouble to protect 
 themselves or me from it. A thick layer of wood ashes 
 showed where they had their fire, and the many bones and 
 skins of goats and sheep proved they had not wanted for 
 meat ; a broken terrina, which they had left behind, with a 
 number of squares marked out with the end of a burnt stick 
 on the bottom of it, looked as if they played at draughts, 
 and a very large, long spit was found, on which they roasted 
 the meat. One day a pair of very small though thick shoes 
 were turned up, and supposed to have belonged to one of 
 the women belonging to the band. 
 
 O O 
 
 The first week we were supplied at intervals of two or 
 three days with a small quantity of meat half cooked. I 
 came in for the underdone portions, for nothing an Italian 
 dislikes so much as crudely-cooked meat. No bread was 
 procurable, with the exception of a very small piece of rye 
 bread : this tasted to me most delicious, for, with the ex- 
 ception of two mouthfuls of maize bread, we had had none 
 for a fortnight. There was great grumbling at the diet, for 
 we only had enough just to keep us from starving. I thought 
 that here I might manage to wash a little, and began by 
 taking off my boots in order to commence with my feet. I 
 had washed one and was doing the same to the other, when 
 that wretched Scope rushed at me, and began hitting me 
 with a stick he picked up because I did not immediately put 
 my sock on to my wet foot. I did not pay the slightest at- 
 tention to him, and wiped my foot dry, and then put on my 
 sock and boot, he continuing to sti'ike me all the time. I 
 told him that " it did not hurt me, and I supposed it amused
 
 292 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 him" (remembering an anecdote told once by a noble earl 
 in the House of Lords with excellent effect), and I recom- 
 mended him to take care what he did, or I should complain 
 to the captain. The others took my part, and, though he 
 did not repeat the offense, he often threatened me, and I 
 really was frequently in fear of my life by reason of his 
 brutal disposition. One blow slightly raised the skin on 
 my forefinger, and I suppose the stick must have been in 
 contact with some decayed matter, for the wound became 
 very troublesome, and did not heal for three weeks, when I 
 had got some bread and made a poultice for it. 
 
 The captain did not return at the end of the week, as he 
 had promised ; all the money was gone, and no food came 
 for three days. I was so hungry that I begged for some 
 of the raw fat three weeks old, that they had kept for the 
 purpose of greasing their boots ! This I forced down my 
 throat, after masticating for a quarter of an hour, but at the 
 end of that time it was just as clammy as at first. I three 
 times ate a little of this fearfully rancid stuff. At last, one 
 night, half a sheep was sent up to us, which four of the men 
 took down again to cook, for Pavone, who stopped with 
 me, would not have a fire made where we were. The 
 greedy wretches cooked and ate nearly all of it, putting a 
 quantity away in their pockets, and brought up a little to 
 Pavone, but only gave to me a scraped leg-bone, which 
 Scope threw in my face, hurting me a good deal : it was 
 perfectly raw, and had but very few signs of meat about it. 
 I gnawed at this in the dark like a dog, eating as much of 
 the sinewy appendages as I could manage to find and to 
 bite ; I then put it by (also after the manner of dogs) till 
 the morning, being too famished to lose so precious a mor- 
 sel ; but that dear brute Scope, seeing it, took it away to 
 see if he could make any thing of it though he had plenty
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 22 to 31. 293 
 
 of meat in his pocket and, finding nothing on it, threw it 
 at my head again. Not a morsel would the others give 
 me, and for two more days I had to go without food, or to 
 take to the raw and stinking fat again ! Each day I had 
 been getting weaker and weaker, till at last my voice failed 
 me, and I could only speak in the lowest whisper, as at last 
 I lay stretched on the ground, praying for death.* 
 
 On the morning of the 30th of July Malone and Vicenzio 
 were sent to get food at all hazards, for they saw I was in 
 a bad state, and they all (particularly Pavone) were getting 
 very queer for want of something to eat, but no one was so 
 ill as I was. 
 
 At about ten o'clock we heard a low whistle above us, 
 and I saw Antonio coming down with something in his 
 handkerchief slung on his gun. When he came to where 
 Pavone was sitting, he turned two loaves and a number of 
 pears out of his pocket. I was so excited at the sight of 
 this that I burst into tears at the goodness of God in send- 
 ing food when I had quite given up hopes of life. I was 
 too weak to go to the bread, and Antonio brought me three 
 pears. I tried to say "pane" but I could not manage it, so 
 pointed at the bread, which they gave me immediately; 
 and by eating a small quantity at a time I soon felt better, 
 and by the evening recovered my voice. 
 
 When it got dark, the two who had gone for food in the 
 morning returned with a little rye bread which they had 
 procured from some shepherds, with two baskets of racot- 
 
 * But a short time before we had plenty to eat, but no water ; now we 
 were safe from thirst, but could get nothing to eat. The brigands have 
 a saying, 
 
 ' ' Quando e pane, non c'e aqua : 
 Quando e aqua, non c'e pane : 
 Quando e came, non sono aqua o pane."
 
 294 ^Znglish Travelers and Italian 
 
 ta; but this they had eaten at once, to the great disgust 
 of those left behind, who rated them severely for their 
 greediness, as it was a mere chance, and quite contrary to 
 Manzo's orders, that Antonio came in the daytime ; and if 
 he had not supplied us, the two who had gone foraging 
 would have fared well, while all left behind would have 
 hardly had any thing. To-day Scope pointed his gun to 
 the sky, and, to my great astonishment, off it went, to the 
 horror of all ! I looked at it, and found that the stock was 
 cracked across, and this made it go off as easily at half-cock 
 as at full-cock. To my delight the nipple blew out, and 
 rendered his gun useless. Vicenzio had lost the lock of his, 
 and thus two guns were rendered good for nothing. 
 
 While in this place we had a week of thunder-storms and 
 showers, which greatly added to my misery, and brought 
 on rheumatism in my right arm. It was curious to notice 
 how soon the slightest rain -fall affected our spring, and 
 caused it to run merrily into the earthen vessel that was 
 put under the bark spout. 
 
 On the 24th of July the harvest was begun in the plains, 
 and I could see the women carrying away the sheaves of 
 corn and rye as soon as cut. It was supposed that, as soon 
 as the reapers came up from the country below, food would 
 be obtained for us in quantity ; but this proved an illusion, 
 and all the peasants were pronounced infame, or traitors to 
 the cause of brigandage. 
 
 July 31. Early in the morning Antonio appeared again 
 with bread and a quantity of pears, and brought the in- 
 formation that the captain had arrived ; but once more I 
 was doomed to disappointment, and my ears began to twitch 
 again at the bad news I had heard no money, and no let- 
 ters! And this was not all; they told me that Lorenzo 
 and the four others left to receive the gold from Giffoni
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 22 to 31. 29o 
 
 had given themselves up after receiving 6000 ducats, equal 
 to 1000.* Hearing this made me very low-spirited, for I 
 knew it would enrage the band, who were without money, 
 and much increase the length of my captivity ; and, besides 
 this, I knew that Manzo would consider it my loss, and re- 
 quire the money to be sent up again. Not a moment was 
 lost, and I was hurried over the top of the mountain, be- 
 hind the place where we had spent the last fortnight, in or- 
 der to go to the part where we had found the captain be- 
 fore. It was fearfully steep and dangerous, and I was so 
 weak from starvation that I could hardly drag myself along ; 
 they had to rest every now and then on my account. I 
 was now so miserable that I did not care what became of 
 me. The last letters from my friends in Naples were dated 
 seven weeks ago, and there was no chance of my hearing 
 again for another fortnight ; and after my many disappoint- 
 ments, I could hardly count upon that. During the walk I 
 found a plantation of wild raspberries, the fruit of which 
 was quite as large and as well-flavored as those grown in 
 our gardens at home. 
 
 At last I was told to sit down, which I did most cheer- 
 fully. More pears arrived, but they were very hard and un- 
 ripe ; this, however, was nothing to the cormorants in whose 
 keeping I was, and I got into great disgrace for presuming 
 to pick out a ripe one. I attempted to pare it, but was told 
 not to waste good food, and, whatever might be the custom 
 in England, it was different with them, and that if I pared 
 another I should never have any more. I had to put up 
 with much of this treatment. On one occasion I had thrown 
 away a piece of sinew, and they took the trouble of going 
 to look for it, to see if it were, in their idea, eatable. They 
 often gave me the windpipe of a sheep, and made me eat it 
 * This was false.
 
 296 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 before I was allowed any thing more. I always told them 
 they did this to keep me employed with a bad piece while 
 they were eating all the rest. 
 
 In about two hours Manzo came up to us in a very sulky 
 state, and made me write a letter to the consul to request 
 him to inform the prefect of what had occurred, and to de- 
 mand that all these five men might be immediately shot, 
 unless they gave up the money they had stolen. I had not 
 known whether to believe the story or not; but when 
 Manzo told me all their names at full length to insert in the 
 letter, there was no doubt about the truth. When this let- 
 ter was written, he took a piece of paper from his pocket- 
 book, on which was written a letter he had composed to my 
 wife, which I was to copy. It took me a long time to de- 
 cipher the writing, which I could only do with his aid, and 
 I wrote each word afresh over the original. He commenced 
 " O moglia ingrata" etc. I told him that I never wrote 
 such a word, and that my wife would not understand it ; 
 but my objections were of no avail, and I had to write this 
 dreadful letter as he wished ; but I slanted my writing as 
 much as possible, to show it was his dictation, and after- 
 ward added some upright of my own composition, and got 
 leave to add two lines in English, taking advantage of a re- 
 port current among the shepherds that I was dead.* I al- 
 ways took the opportunity of letter-writing to ask Manzo 
 for more bread, telling him it was a great exertion, and that 
 it was impossible for me to write Italian when hungry, and 
 on this occasion I did not forget to adopt the usual plan, 
 though with but little success. 
 
 In the evening we joined the rest of the band, w r hen I 
 found that they had reunited with Cerino's party. Many 
 of the men showed much commiseration for me on hearing 
 of the sad state I had been in for want of food. 
 
 * This letter is given at length in the Appendix, H.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 22 to 31. 297 
 
 Cerino himself looked very chapfallen. He had been de- 
 posed from the post of captain, I believe, on account of his 
 unfairness in distributing food, and Cicco had been elected 
 in his stead. I also heard that there had been a great quar- 
 rel among the members of the two bands, I believe about 
 mutilating me because the money came up so slowly, and 
 those who did not share in the ransom objected to the con- 
 stant harassing and want of food occasioned by the exces- 
 sive measures of the Italian government. 
 
 Andrea, Cerino's secretary, and Pasquale, would not serve 
 under Cicco, and had joined Manzo. Poor Cerino had also 
 been deserted by Doniella, who had left the mountains for 
 one of the villages, and altogether he looked at this time 
 very like a fighting-cock who had just got the worst of it 
 in an encounter. Quantum mutatus from the Cerino I for- 
 merly knew! Instead of being made much of by every 
 body, no one now spoke to him, and he skulked about, ut- 
 tei-ly ashamed of himself. 
 
 N 2
 
 298 English Travelers and Italian Briya/ids. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 DlAKT OF MR. MOENS, JULY 31 TO AUGUST 22. 
 
 Illness of Scope, my Bete Noir. Starvation threatens again. Scarcity 
 of Water again. The Brigands observe Fast-days. Their religious 
 Feelings. Their Respect for my Talents. Fearful State to which I 
 was reduced. The Soldiers once more. We leave the Cave. A Meal 
 of Mutton and Potatoes. I am sent away to meet Manzo. In sight 
 of Acerno again. Rigors practiced by the Troops on the Peasantry. 
 Hard Work of the Women. I hear that 6000 Ducats have been re- 
 ceived. Prospects of Freedom. Antonio's new Suit. More Gam- 
 bling. Two Days we live on Apples. All the Money had at last. 
 Manzo's Behavior. Division of the Spoil. 
 
 July 31. THERE was some mystery about this time which 
 I never have been able to fathom ; all the band had been 
 warned not to give me any information about the receipt 
 of money or letters for me, and I saw signs being made to 
 those whom I questioned about my affairs. All at once I 
 was taken away from the rest of the band by about six 
 men, and made to lie down out of the light of the moon ; 
 they, too, concealed themselves, and I heard signals made 
 and answered, and then the noise made by men walking 
 through standing corn. No supply of food came up, or I 
 should have known of it ; and, at the time, I could only con- 
 jecture that I was being deceived about Lorenzo and his 
 companions, but this afterward proved not to be the case. 
 At last another brigand joined us, and we went along the 
 south side of the valley, that was toward the southwest, in
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 31 to August 22. 299 
 
 the direction of the town (which proved to be Carapagna) ; 
 after going a short way we struck up the mountain. 
 
 I was so tired from walking, and the weight of my capote 
 and little bundle of things, that I could hardly stand, and I 
 had to pull myself up with the aid of the small bushes and 
 oaks that covered the side of the mountains ; at last we 
 reached some rocks that raised their bare sides from a bed 
 of fern, and behind some bushes we found a capacious cav- 
 ern : it was about eight yards deep and four wide, the two 
 sides meeting in a point at the top. The bottom was of 
 fine black mould and very sloping ; this made it most diffi- 
 cult for me to keep my position when I was told to go to 
 the end and lie down, and I kept slipping down on the man 
 below me all night. 
 
 In this cave it was intensely dark, and there was a large 
 bat flying about continually, which did not increase my com- 
 fort. It was impossible for me to sleep, and, to add to my 
 grief, my bundle of valuables rolled away from me, and in a 
 moment went bounding down the mountain side ; I never 
 expected to see it again, but in the morning it was recov- 
 ered by Pavone. 
 
 Scope caught cold on one side of his head to-night, which 
 made it swell very much. I told him it was the effects of 
 the good living we had been having, which had fattened one 
 side of his head ; this raised a great laugh against him, and 
 I repeated " J^overo /Scope 11 once or twice, which tickled 
 their fancy immensely, for they all knew that there was no 
 love lost between us, and for some time they all pretended 
 to commiserate him in the same way. 
 
 I began to fear that the starvation system was to begin 
 again, as the following extract from my notes made at the 
 time will show. 
 
 "We arrived here on the 31st of July :
 
 300 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 "Aug. 1. No water; small piece of bread. 
 
 " ,2. No water ; a little rye bread at night. 
 " 3. No water till midnight ; no bread ; Pavone 
 went to get sheep." 
 
 Each night the brigands went down for water, but they 
 had nothing in which to bring up any for me, and orders 
 had been given not to allow me to move. It is a fearful 
 thing, in a hot climate, at this time of the year, to go with- 
 out drinking for three days". Each night I raved at them 
 for their cruelty in not bringing me up water; but they 
 only jeered at me, and told me to do without it. When it 
 did come they did not allow me to drink much, though a 
 large earthen jar had been procured and brought up .full. 
 They had also brought up a copper caldaja, and they want- 
 ed as much water as possible to cook some pasta which 
 they had also obtained. 
 
 The next day, the 4th of August, was the anniversary of 
 my wedding-day, and I whiled away an hour by going 
 through the wedding service, and all day thought of the 
 gathering of my friends on that occasion, and followed 
 them all, mentally, to their happy homes. I wondered, too, 
 whether the day would be remembered at Naples. 
 
 Some pasta was cooked, but the want of bacon-fat, salt, 
 or pepper made it very insipid ; but hunger forced all to eat 
 it with thankfulness. In the evening there was great re- 
 joicing. Pavone, Antonino, and Antonio returned with 
 three sheep alive, and the carcass of one they had killed, 
 11 Ibs. weight of excellent bread, some cheese, an enormous 
 quantity of pears, and plenty of salt. The next night, five 
 loaves, weighing 7 Ibs. each, and more cheese and pears, ap- 
 peared, and this lasted me and my five jailers the fortnight 
 we stopped in this place. 
 
 I have not mentioned that from religious scruples the
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 31 to August 22. 301 
 
 brigands never eat meat on Wednesdays and Fridays, un- 
 less it is impossible to procure other food. Their religious 
 feeling is also shown by their invariably raising their hats 
 when the Madonna's or our Savior's name is mentioned; 
 also when they hear the church bells ringing for vespers an 
 hour after sunset. While in a place like this, I got rather 
 clever at telling the time from observing the shadows cast 
 by the sun, and they always came to me to set their watch- 
 es. By some of them I was considered to be possessed by 
 a devil, because I knew too much, and foretold the weather 
 so well. One day I was asked the hour some time after it 
 had got dark. I looked round and said, " One o'clock ;" 
 for they always, in this part of the country, count from sun- 
 set to sunset, 24 hours. As I spoke, the clock of the town 
 below sounded one, and they said, "We always thought 
 you possessed with a devil, but now we are sure of it ;" and 
 afterward, though their watches were pretty correct, they 
 preferred asking me. 
 
 With some large stones I built a little wall across the 
 cave, and digging down the part above with the end of my 
 stick, made a level space to lie down on ; and one evening 
 I was allowed to pick a quantity of fern, and this made it 
 much softer and more comfortable. My sides had become 
 very sore from rubbing constantly against the hard ground. 
 For a long time my body had been in a fearful state from 
 sores arising from the bites of vermin ; not a spot about 
 me had escaped from their attacks, and the wounds were 
 constantly festering from the bad state of my system, in- 
 duced through inadequate and improper food. After an 
 exclusively meat diet for a week or a fortnight, I invariably 
 grew much worse. These wounds required the greatest 
 care, for the filthy state I was in from not being allowed to 
 wash, and the black, fine dust of the cave, soon caused them
 
 302 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 to increase much in size. I always applied a small bread 
 and water poultice ; I kept a small supply of crumbs tied 
 up in a corner of a handkerchief for the purpose. 
 
 The rye bread was curious stuff. After it was two days 
 old it fermented, and was full of a viscid transparent mat- 
 ter. If it did not turn mouldy in this stage, but dried all 
 right, it would last sound for months, though it required 
 soaking before being eaten. A great deal of this fell to 
 my share, for it was despised by the others, who ate the 
 best there was. All day long I heard the constant beating 
 out of the corn, which was going on just below us, and I 
 could often see the women carrying the sheaves on their 
 heads from the fields for this purpose. There was a dog at 
 this place, which constantly kept barking. I do not think 
 these peasants supplied the brigands with food, for they 
 went at least an hour's walk for it, going out at dusk, and 
 not returning till ten or eleven o'clock, and often not till 
 the next night. 
 
 One day, while they were cooking at the end of the cave, 
 a flock of goats came close to the cave, and there was great 
 fear lest the slight smoke that passed through a small hole 
 at the top should have been seen by the boy looking after 
 them ; two or three of the goats actually came and looked 
 in at us from a rock above, and were driven away by little 
 stones. The next day, the 9th of August, there was great 
 trepidation, and three of the brigands and I were in ex- 
 treme danger for some little time. All at once Antonino 
 called out, "The soldiers! the soldiers!" They were on 
 the top of the mountain, a quarter of a mile from the cave. 
 Andrea and he bolted out at once and hid themselves be- 
 hind some rocks near, for they were two old hands at brig- 
 andage, and would not allow themselves to be caught like 
 rats in a hole, in the same manner that Giardullo and his
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 31 to August 22. 303 
 
 band were when they were so cut up some weeks before. 
 I was immediately made to go to the end of the cave, and 
 Pavone, Antonio, and Scope came with me, and every place 
 was cleared from which there was a chance of any thing 
 being seen. Scope told me that, if the soldiers came, he 
 would shoot me at once. I gave them all the advice not 
 to attempt to fire at the troops, but to put their guns 
 down, and then lie flat on the ground, for they might per- 
 haps kill one or two, but in the end must lose their own 
 lives ; while, on the contrary, should they give themselves 
 up, they would only have to spend a few years in prison. 
 I never saw any people in such a state of terror. Pavone's 
 teeth were all chattering, and he was as white as a sheet; 
 Scope was the same, and lying on the ground ; and Antonio 
 was in such a state of fear and shaking that he kept strik- 
 ing his gun against the rocky sides of the cave, and making 
 a great noise, to the dismay of all. 
 
 I sat down on a stone, and, to reassure them, said, " Cour- 
 age ! courage ! eat a little ;" and, to set the example, took 
 some bread and meat out of my pocket and began eating it. 
 My doing so enraged them to a great extent, and they said, 
 " What a fool you are to begin to eat when you will be 
 dead in two minutes !" I urged them to do as I told them, 
 and all would be right. I had by this time become so de- 
 spairing of ever escaping from my bondage that I did not 
 care what took place ; but in a skirmish with the troops I 
 might have escaped. Had I not been so carefully kept at 
 the extreme end of the cave, with their men hemming me 
 in, I should have now tried to run out and dart down the 
 hill, crying, "The brigands! the brigands!" and they would 
 have been afraid either to follow me or shoot at me, for 
 fear of betraying themselves. 
 
 For about three hours we were in this uncomfortable
 
 304 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 state, and then, no soldiers appearing, they took heart and 
 went to the mouth of the cave ; but I was not allowed to 
 move. When it got quite dark the two brothers returned, 
 and told us that the troops had passed in two companies, 
 one above us, and the other just below, leaving us unnoticed 
 between them. It was a great escape, and I felt most 
 thankful for it ; for, if we had been discovered, I should cer- 
 tainly have fallen a victim to the vengeance of the brigands, 
 who had had the strictest orders from Manzo not to let me 
 fall alive into the hands of the soldiers ; added to which, 
 one of my keepers, at least, would have gladly seized the 
 opportunity of wreaking his fury upon me. We had now 
 been here for ten days, and orders had been left by Manzo 
 that if he did not return before this time, they were to 
 leave the cave and go to meet him near a fountain some 
 way on the road toward Giffoni. They had had such a 
 fright that it was determined to leave to-night. I was de- 
 lighted to hear this, for the place had become unbearable 
 from the odor of the sheep's paunches which had been 
 thrown just outside the cave, and I was afraid of being bit- 
 ten by the swarm of flies which fed constantly on the de- 
 caying matter. I also pitied the poor sheep that had hith- 
 erto escaped death ; for six days the demons had left it 
 without water, and the poor beast suffered so that it gave 
 vent to its feelings by constantly bleating: it did this two 
 or three times while they were in fear of the soldiers. On 
 each occasion Scope went to it, and ground its nose against 
 the rough side of the cave ; it was a most painful sight, and 
 I reproached them for allowing the poor animal to be tor- 
 tured thus. They only remarked that it would not die for 
 two days more, eight" days being the time they could exist 
 without water. 
 
 Great caution was used as we emerged from our retreat,
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 31 to August 22. 305 
 
 where we had now passed ten days, and in about three 
 hours we arrived at the fountain, where we expected to 
 meet their captain. Care was taken not to leave any foot- 
 marks near the water. I remained with them while the 
 other two went to rob a potato-field ; they soon returned 
 with a large handkerchief full of potatoes, which were 
 cooked the next day, half of the poor sheep having been 
 boiled in some water, and the potatoes were afterward cut 
 in slices and boiled in the broth, which made the most sa- 
 vory mess I had tasted for months. 
 
 During the night I picked up my New Testament, which 
 had fallen out of my pocket while I was sleeping, and early 
 the next morning we moved a quarter of a mile farther on. 
 In the middle of the day I found, to my great dismay, that 
 I had lost my little Prayer-book, which had been the great- 
 est solace all the time of my captivity. Even Pavone felt 
 for me, for religious books are very much respected by 
 these men. He immediately, on my requesting him, went 
 back to the place where we slept, and soon returned, but 
 told me he had not been able to find it ; in a few minutes, 
 however, he put his hand in his pocket and gave me the 
 precious book. How pleased I was to see it again ! it made 
 me comparatively happy all the rest of the day. There was 
 a scarcity of knives to-day, for the only two they possessed 
 had been lost, one having been left at each of the last two 
 hiding-places, and they had to come to me for my two 
 pocket-knives to slaughter and cut up the sheep. 
 
 It was not considered safe to stop with me in this neigh- 
 borhood, because of the soldiers seen the day before, so 
 Antonino and Scope remained behind to tell Manzo and the 
 band, when they came, where the other three had taken 
 me. 
 
 August 10. In the evening we went toward the north
 
 30(i English Travelers and Italian Brigands, 
 
 taking five hours to ascend a mountain, which was cultiva- 
 ted in terraces half the way up ; the corn had all been cut, 
 and we started a covey of partridges, which went whirring 
 down the hill-side. It was easy walking along a path after 
 we had gone over the summit, and we halted at two springs, 
 making a good meal off the remains of the sheep. 
 
 At daybreak we climbed up a mountain covered with 
 wood, and, coming to a suitable place, threw ourselves on 
 the ground and were soon asleep, one keeping guard as 
 usual. When I woke the sun was high, and I could see a 
 town a little to the eastward placed on one end of a curious- 
 ly flat piece of land, with high mountains on the north and 
 east of it. Between us and the town the ground was much 
 broken, and I thought I recognized Acerno, having caught 
 a glimpse of it once before in the gray of the morning, 
 when Signer Francesco Visconti was with me. I had heard 
 them whispering about a safe place near Acerno the day be- 
 fore, so I boldly told them I could see Acerno, which rather 
 surprised them, and I heard the word diavolo pass from one 
 to the other. They told me it was not so, but the town 
 was called Bagnuolo. This confirmed me in my opinion, 
 for any information they volunteered was sure to be false, 
 and they never did even this except to throw me off a 
 scent. 
 
 In the evening we descended a long way, and passed over 
 a foaming torrent by a very frail kind of bridge, about six 
 inches wide : all the bed and rocks in it were marble, smooth 
 and polished by the action of the water. We had to ascend 
 another ridge, and then passed on to cultivated ground, 
 where I picked several ears of maize, now getting ripe. 
 
 There were also a great number of apple-trees full of 
 fruit, but the greater part very rough and bitter ; but at 
 last a tree was found with good-sized apples of a fair kind,
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, July 31 to August 22. 307 
 
 with which our pockets were soon filled. The mountain 
 ridge ran round three sides, and another closed in the fourth 
 with a high mountain rising behind it. 
 
 In this way a tiny valley was inclosed, w r ell cultivated, 
 and irrigated by a little stream that issued from the precip- 
 itous white limestone rock at the northern end ; on the east- 
 ern side the mountain was cultivated from the bottom to 
 the top, but the western side was covered with broom and 
 small trees, and here we were hid for another fourteen days. 
 It was a most impudent act to choose this spot, only a mile 
 and a half from Acerno, in a cultivated part, with a mule- 
 road right round the little amphitheatre, formed by a ridge 
 about three hundred feet high. At least seventy to eighty 
 peasants passed not three hundred yards from us every 
 morning and evening, as they went to and from their daily 
 work, and we could see company after company of soldiers 
 as they passed backward and forward between Giffoni and 
 Acerno. The place was well chosen, for the troops never 
 thought of looking into a hollow about three hundred yards 
 long and two hundred wide, where people went every day 
 to thresh corn and pick the apples. Every night Antonio 
 brought up bread, cheese, bacon, and fruit, also boiled ears 
 of maize, but in rather small quantities, for the strictest 
 measures were still taken against the peasants, any one 
 found carrying bread at night being liable to be shot ; and 
 in the daytime all peasants met by the troops were searched 
 to see if they had more than sufficient to serve for their 
 midday meal, and even this was restricted to a very small 
 quantity. The women, too, going to the springs for water, 
 were obliged to be provided with a pass. 
 
 For the first few days I saw two men and a girl employ- 
 ed in threshing corn on the hill-side opposite us. The brig- 
 ands were quite at home here, and knew the names of all
 
 308 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 \vhom they saw, even at a great distance. They told me 
 that these two men were father and son, but they seemed 
 to take great care that we were not seen by them. 
 
 It used rather to amuse me to see the contented way the 
 women would carry home heavy burdens, while the men 
 would calmly ride home on the donkeys, which here go by 
 the name of beasts ; and I thought of some of my country- 
 women, who are so fond of contrasting the status of their 
 sex in England with that of their sisters " abroad," showing 
 a decided predilection for the condition of the latter, based 
 upon the charming external politeness with which they 
 themselves have been treated by a Frenchman or an Italian 
 in some ballroom. 
 
 Day after day of the hottest weather passed, but no news 
 of the captain, except that he was gone to take another ga- 
 lantuomo. At last, after a week, one evening it was Wed- 
 nesday about ten of the band came up, headed by Genero- 
 so, who told me at first that there were no letters or money, 
 but I soon found out from their quiet manner that things 
 were looking better, and I presently found that 6000 ducats 
 had been received, making in all 12,000, and they had got 
 the news that 1 8,000 ducats more were at Giffoni, and had 
 been there some weeks. Signor Elia Visconti had not sent 
 it all, for Manzo had only asked for 6000, which was the 
 money that he was afraid the five who had given them- 
 selves up had stolen, and I now found out the cause of the 
 delay. The letters the five had with them had got destroyed 
 by the peasant who was taking them to Visconti's house. 
 The date of the next letter had been altered by Manzo, and 
 Signor Visconti feared that there was something wrong, 
 and therefore refused to pay the money, as he had done be- 
 fore, when Lorenzo demanded it without any at all. 
 
 The brigands were now in good-humor, and told me that
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens^ July 31 to August 22. 309 
 
 I should be free in a week. I wrote a letter to Giffoni, ask- 
 ing for the money to be sent at once, and in my excitement 
 wrote July instead of August, but fortunately found it out 
 just before they went away. I asked why Manzo had been 
 so long away, and was told that he had had much business 
 to transact, and that he was not very far off. I believe he 
 joined them this night in the path below, and went to Gif- 
 foni with them : this was Wednesday, the 16th. I expected 
 that they would return from Giffoni on Sunday or Monday, 
 but these days passed without hearing any tidings ; food 
 began to fall off; the peasant who had supplied us declared 
 it impossible to obtain any more from the town, on account 
 of the vigilance of the troops, who now examined and 
 searched all persons as they went to and from their daily 
 work. Only about a pound of bread and a few boiled spikes 
 of maize could be got, and this had to suffice for the five 
 men and myself. 
 
 One evening Antonio appeared in a magnificent suit of 
 blue cloth, bound and striped with black velvet, with a 
 spread eagle with red eyes, made of the same velvet, on the 
 back. The buttons were gilt, and had on them the fleur-de- 
 lys of the Bourbons ; he also had got a tremendous stiletto, 
 of which he was very proud. While we were in the grotto 
 he had won from Andrea his revolver, and watch, and gold 
 chain, so that he presented quite a gay appearance : I made 
 him turn round and round in order to admire him, which 
 pleased him immensely. 
 
 During these days gambling went on vigorously, and two 
 of the five lost the whole of their expected spoils. During 
 the whole of this time I could not sleep from excitement, 
 and I spent all the nights in watching the stars, which 
 seemed now all in pairs, two and two ! Before, they seemed 
 far from each other, but now they seemed much closer ;
 
 310 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 they seemed to typify the separation from my wife, that I 
 had to undergo all these weary weeks. I always saw the 
 morning star rising with magnificence above the mountains 
 in the east, opposite to where we were, followed once again 
 by the sun, which soon drove us to seek a shelter from his 
 burning rays. 
 
 No food now came up, and we lived for two days on noth- 
 ing but unripe apples. On the 22d of August we w r ent 
 down to the spring below, and spent the next day among 
 the thick underwood at the head of the valley. 
 
 August 23. This was Wednesday, and a most important 
 day to me, for at about seven o'clock in the evening Anto- 
 nio came hurrying up from fetching water with the news 
 that the captain had sent for us. I dreaded hearing that 
 there was another disappointment, and for some time I was 
 afraid to ask. About four men had been sent to us, and 
 among them was Justi, who came and told me that all the 
 money was paid, and that I was to be set free to-morrow. 
 The news was too good for me to believe ; and I did not 
 believe it till he had knelt down, and, crossing his arms on 
 his breast, declared, by the Madonna, that it was the case. 
 I felt so intoxicated that I could hardly walk, and a crowd 
 of thoughts rushed suddenly into my mind. I had spent a 
 solitary time, often not speaking for days to the men guard- 
 ing me, so that I had become almost stupefied, and I quite 
 dreaded the turmoil of civilized life. I would have given 
 any thing to have escaped quietly straight to my home in 
 England. 
 
 In about an hour we came to the place where Manzo and 
 the rest of his band were waiting for us, when, to my as- 
 tonishment, he took no notice of me. I suppose his interest 
 in me had gone now that he had bled me to all the extent 
 he fancied he could, and all he wanted with me was to get
 
 Diary of Mr. Hoens, July 31 to August 22. 311 
 
 rid of me safely, for he had promised that he would do all 
 he could to keep me from, dauger ; and I do believe that he 
 thought himself bound by honor as a brigand chief to de- 
 liver the Inglese safe to his friends. 
 
 We walked for an hour or two, passing a little to the 
 north of Acerno, but close to it, and stopped to sleep for 
 two or three hours under some enormous chestnut-trees : 
 this was the first, and, I trust, the last time I shall ever do 
 the same again, for the thin, sharp prickles of the outer cov- 
 ering of the nuts pierced my thin clothing, and, breaking 
 off in the skin, had the most irritating effect on my already 
 tortured body for some days. At about two in the morn- 
 ing we went up the mountain to the east of Acerno, and 
 again stopped and slept till seven or eight o'clock that is, 
 the brigands did, for not a wink could I sleep. I had not 
 got a night's rest for more than a week, but the exciting 
 prospect of being free kept up my strength. To-day I saw 
 the money counted and divided into 17 shares ; it was orig- 
 inally shared by twenty-eight. Thirty had been in giro 
 when we were taken, but two were shot by the troops the 
 next day at Monte Corvino ; Luigi had fallen over the preci- 
 pice ; five had been taken near Giffbni ; one had surrender- 
 ed himself after the fight on the mountains of Callabritto ; 
 
 one was shot at night by Signer D as he was returning 
 
 from foraging; and the other three belonged to Cerino's 
 band, and, after the quarrel, were not allowed to share any 
 more in our ransom. 
 
 The following was the division: Each brigand entitled 
 to a share had 200 Napoleons, which I saw counted out in 
 four sums of 50, this being Manzo's way of reckoning. A 
 thousand ducats were divided among the four men that be- 
 longed to Giardullo's late band, and the other thousand kept 
 for the general expenses of the band. This just made up
 
 312 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 the whole amount of the last installment of the ransom of 
 the two Englishmen taken on the 15th of May, thus : 
 17 shares, 200 Napoleons each .... 15,980 ducats. 
 
 Giardullo's men 1,000 " 
 
 Reserved for expenses of band .... 1,000 " 
 
 17,980 ducats * 
 
 * Though the brigands were very deficient in education, only one tenth 
 being able to read or write, I observed that they could all cast up compli- 
 cated accounts in a wonderful manner, Pavone and the captain especially 
 being very clever at it. The exchanges used in brigand money transac- 
 tions are 4 -7 duqats to the Napoleon, and 4 -25 lire to the ducat. The 
 ducat (very like our guinea, an imaginary coin) is still the favorite unit 
 of calculation in all their receipts and payments, although the merchants 
 and bankers at Naples have adopted the franc in place of it.
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens, July 31 to August 25. 313 
 
 CHAPTER XVH. 
 
 DlAEY OF MRS. MOENS, JULY 31 TO AUGUST 25. 
 
 News from the Band. A Visit from Talarico. Otium cum dig. after an 
 honorable Career. Talarico's Advice to the Captive's Wife. His 
 chivalrous Offer. The five Brigands at Visconti's. The last Letter 
 from the Captive. Reduction of the Brigands' Claim. A gallant 
 Priest. Another Visit to General Balegno. His Kindness. Intense 
 Excitement when the Ransom was all Paid. Suspense. Free at last. 
 Joy too deep for Words. 
 
 ON the evening of the 31st of July I walked with my 
 friend's children to a lovely bay two miles from the house. 
 Our path lay along the side of a hill, looking down into the 
 luxuriant vineyards as we gradually descended to the beau- 
 tiful little bay, with its silver sands sheltered by the lofty 
 rocks. A boiling mineral spring flows into the sea here, 
 and makes the water deliciously warm. We were just go- 
 ing to bathe, when I heard a man's voice calling, " Mrs. Mo- 
 ens is wanted immediately ; important news has arrived." 
 I rushed back as fast as I could, and arrived breathless to 
 find that Signor Michele di Majo had come to tell me that 
 there had been an encounter with the brigands, and that 
 two had been captured their clothes and boots were very 
 much worn, and they were evidently hard pressed. My 
 husband, they said, was concealed in a grotto under the 
 guard of several of the band. I stood in a strong draught 
 while listening to this story, and the consequence was that 
 T -was seriously ill for days afterward. 
 
 O
 
 314 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 On the 2d of August the celebrated ex-brigand chief, Ta- 
 larico, paid ine a visit. This man, whose story is related by 
 Count Maffei in his " History of Italian Brigandage," had a 
 most successful career ; the Bourbon government, finding it 
 impossible to put him down by force, had at last offered 
 him pardon and a pension on condition that he should not 
 leave the island of Ischia.* He is an extremely handsome 
 man, very tall, with the smallest and most delicate hands. 
 He sat and talked with us over a bottle of wine, becoming 
 more communicative and animated at every glass. 
 
 One story he told amused us much. Having heard that 
 a rich old proprietor had once spoken against brigands, Ta- 
 larico and some of his men appeared before him suddenly 
 one day as he was walking in his garden, and placing their 
 guns at his breast, made him take them into his house as if 
 they were his friends, order his mule, and ride away with 
 them. On their way they met a poor country doctor : they 
 stopped him, and asked him to dress the arm of one of the 
 band, which he did, extracting from it four bullets. They 
 gave him a handsome present of money, together with a let- 
 ter, which he was to take from Talarico to a rich tailor. 
 The letter, when opened, contained these words : " Make 
 this man an entire suit of clothes," which, of course, was 
 done immediately, the tailor not daring to refuse. 
 
 Talarico evidently considered my husband's position a 
 very serious one. He told me the soldiers would never be 
 allowed to take him alive ; he advised my taking the ran- 
 som myself, telling me the brigands would not hurt me. I 
 was to ride on a donkey, with the gold concealed in the sad- 
 dle. He offered to accompany me as guide, if he could get 
 permission from the authorities. I determined to go, as I 
 
 * For an account of Talarico, see also the very interesting work of Mr. 
 Hilton, "Brigandage in South Italy," vol. i., p. 250.
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens, July 31 to August 25. 315 
 
 could get no pass from the government, and had lost all 
 hopes of the authorities being able to help me. I had wea- 
 ried General Balegno with visits, and entreaties to keep 
 back the troops, who were pressing the brigands, and pre- 
 venting them from getting food. He had assured me he 
 had no power to do so, so I made up my mind to follow 
 Talarico's advice, and asked him to write a letter for me to 
 take to Manzo. This he consented to do at once.* 
 
 I asked Talarico which he liked best, a brigand's life or 
 an honest man's life. He replied instantly, " Oh, an honest 
 man's career; a brigand's life is this," and he turned his 
 head over the right shoulder, and then over the left, as if 
 fearing an enemy; this gesture spoke volumes. I under- 
 stood at once the wretched life of continual suspicion, dis- 
 trust, vigilance, and fear which the brigand leads. His hand 
 is against every man, and every man's hand is against his. 
 
 I received a letter on the 1st of August from my friend, 
 Mr. Richard Holme, for whose disinterested and unselfish 
 exertions, involving the greatest danger, my husband and I 
 can not feel sufficiently grateful. His brother, too, Mr. Ed- 
 ward Holme, never omitted an opportunity of sending or 
 bringing me the slightest information that might give me 
 hope or comfort. Alas! I really needed it. It was now 
 twelve weeks since I had parted with my husband. I can 
 only try to feel that he is in God's hands, who will guard 
 and keep him, now and through eternity. I think of all the 
 promises to help the weak, to loosen the prisoner out of 
 captivity, during these long, weary days, and still longer 
 nights, when I can not sleep. 
 
 Mr. Holme informed me that immediately on his last ar- 
 rival at Salerno he saw both the prefect and one of the gen- 
 eral's staff officers. Signer Visconti had been requested to 
 * A copy of this curious epistle will be found in the Appendix, I.
 
 316 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 come to Salerno on the following morning to meet him, but 
 had sent no answer. Next morning a letter came from 
 Signer Visconti, stating that, in consequence of the threats 
 of five brigands who were hovering about his house, say- 
 ing that they were sent by Manzo for the money he could 
 not come ; but that, as they produced no letter to prove 
 their identity, Signer V. had very properly refused to part 
 with a cent, it being very probable that these men had sep- 
 arated from the main body, and were acting on their own 
 account. They had threatened him in such terms that he 
 dared not leave his house. 
 
 Mr. Holme thereupon went to Giffoni, and saw the au- 
 thorities and Signor Visconti. The latter begged that the 
 money might be at once removed from his house, as he con- 
 sidered his life was endangered. On this point Mr. Holme 
 tried to reassure him, telling him plainly that, unless some 
 equally safe channel were found, he must continue to hold 
 the money, since the brigands, knowing that he had it, 
 would come upon him for the loss of it, if he were not ready 
 at any moment to pay it. 
 
 If these five brigands were really not sent by Manzo, Mr. 
 Holme thinks it probable that Manzo will suspect they have 
 either taken the money and escaped, or that they have been 
 taken, in which case he will endeavor to find some other 
 channel of communication. 
 
 The 4th of August, our wedding-day, was intensely mis- 
 erable, only brightened somewhat by hearing that Manzo's 
 mother had got another pass, and had started to see her 
 son. She may bring back news of my husband. I heard 
 also to-day that two brigands had surrendered themselves, 
 and that another had been arrested. Mr. Holme had been 
 with an escort of Bersaglieri to see them, and found that 
 they either knew or would tell nothing of my husband, ex-
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens, July 31 to August 25. 317 
 
 cept that they had seen him a month ago, when he was 
 pretty well. They were part of the five who threatened 
 Signer Visconti. 
 
 On the 6th of August I received a letter from Mr. Bon- 
 ham, telling me that a letter had arrived from my husband 
 so distressing in its character that he would not forward it 
 to me, adding, " He complains of suffering acutely from fa- 
 tigue and exhaustion, and deficiency of food, and begs that 
 money be sent at once for his ransom." On receiving this 
 letter, Visconti sent off on Thursday morning last all the 
 money he had in the house, Tor which Manzo has sent a re- 
 ceipt. Manzo's mother saw her son and the band, and im- 
 plored them to give up their prisoners : some agreed, the 
 majority would not, unless they received 30,000 ducats in 
 all, and they would have an answer to-day. On receiving 
 these letters I sent for Mr. Aynsley and Mr. Holme. After 
 consulting together, we determined that the money ought 
 to be sent without delay, or waiting reference to you ; and 
 the money probably is, ere this, at Giffoni. Mr. Moens was 
 not with the band when Manzo's mother and the messen- 
 gers saw them." 
 
 The same day I also received the following letter from 
 Mr. Aynsley : 
 
 "Naples, August 5th, 1865. 
 
 " MY DEAR MRS. MOEXS, Manzo's mother has just re- 
 turned from a visit to her son. She says he will accept 
 30,000 ducats. The balance will be sent at once ; Richard 
 Holme takes the money. The 1000 at Visconti's was just 
 a month in reaching them, and you must therefore not be 
 surprised if the money to be sent to-day is as long at the 
 same place before it obtains your husband's liberation. 
 " In haste, yours very sincerely, 
 
 " J. 0. MURRAY AYXSLEY."
 
 318 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 I determined to go immediately to Naples to learn the 
 contents of the letter which Mr. Bonham spoke of, and 
 started at half past three on the morning of the 7th. I had 
 now become more courageous, and I embarked alone in a 
 little boat to meet the steamer. We rowed for an hour, 
 the sailors, who all knew my story, being most kind to me. 
 The sun was rising from the sea, turning into gold all the 
 rosy clouds that seemed hurrying out of his way; the stars, 
 softly and imperceptibly, were vanishing and such lovely 
 stars ! I had been watching them all thfi night through 
 my open window. If it were tot for the beauty of Nature 
 one might be tempted sometimes to doubt of Heaven, but 
 its surpassing loveliness is an earnest of the Paradise to 
 come. 
 
 I arrived at Naples in the midst of a tremendous storm 
 of rain. To my dismay, not a carriage was to be seen ; it 
 was impossible to walk, for the streets were running with 
 water. At last I saw a carriage approaching laden witli 
 luggage, but no one inside. I rushed to it, and, despite the 
 opposition of the men in charge of it. jumped in and sat 
 down, not paying the least attention to their assurances 
 that it was engaged. Presently a priest came up and in- 
 formed me that the luggage was his. I made an appeal to 
 his feelings, telling him that I was a foreigner an English- 
 woman, and alone. He smiled, and politely begged me to 
 keep the carriage, ordering his luggage to be taken off, to 
 the great indignation of the porters, who had just piled it 
 up. I went to our consul general, begging him to give me 
 my husband's letter. He refused at first, but I insisted on 
 having it. It was, indeed, very terrible.* What were we 
 to do? 
 
 Mr. Bonham immediately sent a telegram to our Foreign 
 * A copy of this letter will be found in the Appendix, H.
 
 Diary of Mrs, Moens, July 31 to August 22. 319 
 
 Office, and another to Florence. I determined to hear the 
 
 ' 
 
 result, and then (contrary to the advice of all my friends ex- 
 cept Mr. Bonham) to start at once for Salerno, to try and 
 persuade the general to keep back the troops, so that we 
 might attempt to send the money ; it is so hard that it 
 should be waiting here with no possibility of paying it. I 
 then went on to Salerno and visited the general. I begged 
 and entreated him, with tears, almost on my knees, to keep 
 back the troops. He listened very kindly, tried to soothe 
 me, but would give no positive answer. I then told him of 
 Talarico's plan, and that I was determined to go myself to 
 the brigands with the money. He held up his hands in 
 horror, and said that it was folly madness ! I told him I 
 was not afraid of the brigands ; the only obstacle to our 
 messengers was his soldiers ; if they stopped me I should 
 tell them who I was, and I was sure they would not hurt 
 me. He begged me to give up such a wild plan, and to 
 have patience. 
 
 I went back to the hotel, and wrote to General Delia 
 Marmora again. I received a kind telegram in reply, beg- 
 ging me to keep my mind quiet, but promising nothing. 
 
 The general has just sent an aid-de-camp to tell me he 
 can not, consistently with his honor, keep back the troops ; 
 he sent a gentleman also who told me horrible stories about 
 the brigands' treatment of women, with the view, I sup- 
 pose, of dissuading me from adopting Talarico's plan. 
 
 Aug. 8. I have just heard from Mr. Aynsley that Manzo's 
 mother has returned. She did not see my husband, but 
 she heard that there was great quarreling among the band 
 about him, Manzo declaring that he will let him go for 
 30,000 ducats, the others objecting, but being likely to give 
 in. This is, indeed, good news, if true,* as one or two mes- 
 
 * It \vas afterward ascertained that the letters procured and forwarded
 
 320 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 senders more -will be able to carry the remainder of the 
 
 o 
 
 ransom. It has been arranged that if the brigancft do not 
 come to meet the messenger, he is to go every day to the 
 
 appointed place, while Signer D waits the result at 
 
 Visconti's house. My dreadful fear now is that the troops 
 will drive them away from their present position, and then 
 it will be weeks again before we can hear from the band ; 
 they are hardly pressed now, and nearly worn out ; they 
 said the troops often pass ten yards from where they lie 
 concealed. My husband is not with the main body, but 
 hidden in a grotto, in charge of a small party. Oh, that our 
 government would press the Italian government to keep 
 back their troops, if but for a few hours only, or my hus- 
 band will yet be sacrificed ! He reproaches me in his let- 
 ter with abandoning him ! If we do not within a few days 
 get his freedom, I believe that he will be dead with hunger 
 arid exhaustion. 
 
 Aug. 9. The brigands are still near Giffoni, and have sent 
 
 a letter from W , but Signor Visconti will not give the 
 
 money, for the letter is dated a month back! and he thinks 
 he may not be alive. Faith and patience are tried indeed, 
 and sorely needed here. 
 
 After this, nearly a week passed without farther news ; 
 the days dragged on heavily; the heat was dreadful, the 
 loneliness oppressive. It was impossible to go out; the 
 general kindly sent me books. I tried to read them, to 
 keep my thoughts a little from brooding over the horrors 
 I imagined. I do not know how I managed to bear this so 
 
 O O 
 
 long. "When trouble first comes upon us, we are apt to 
 think it intolerable, little knowing how much deeper and 
 
 by Messrs. C and Holme on the 31st of July, which only reached 
 
 Manzo with the 1000 at the beginning of August, were the cause of this 
 reduction in the original claim.
 
 Diary of Mrs. Moens, July 31 to August 22. 321 
 
 deeper we may sink, and yet be sustained by our Father's 
 hand. I seemed indeed in the Valley of the Shadow of 
 Death ; all I know is, that, in the thick darkness that cov- 
 ered me, naught but His hand kept me from falling into de- 
 spair. On the 16th I heard that Visconti's servant had met 
 Manzo in the mountains, and was made to march three 
 days with him in search of the party who have care of my 
 husband, but without success. 
 
 Aug. 21. The brigands have forwarded a letter from my 
 husband acknowledging that 3000 has been paid to them. 
 This is a fearfully exciting day ! Will they keep faith and 
 release him ? God only knows. This contingency, which 
 I did not fear before, now seems to afford me the greatest 
 possible alarm. 
 
 Aug. 22. Mr. R. Holme has just been, with the happy 
 news that the brigands will release my husband directly 
 they have put the money in a place of safety, perhaps the 
 day after to-morrow. I can not read, or walk, or sleep. 
 Can it be true ?* 
 
 The three next days I passed alone, weary with waiting 
 and waiting for the expected news, till on the evening of 
 the 25th I was almost out of my mind with fear and excite- 
 ment lest the brigands should not now keep faith. What 
 should we do ? I had had so many disappointments that I 
 now lost all hope. When the long and weary day was at 
 an end I went to bed, and, worn out with anxiety, fell asleep. 
 At half past three I was awoke by the joyful tidings that 
 my husband was free! The hideous dream of so many 
 weeks was over, but I could scarcely believe the news was 
 true until Mr. R. Holme came to fetch me, and we drove 
 away together, accompanied by an escort of soldiers, to 
 meet my husband at Giffoni. 
 
 * Manzo's Receipt is given in Appendix K. 
 O 2
 
 322 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 * * * * * * 
 
 " When the Lord turned again the captivity of Zion, we 
 were like them that dream ; then was our mouth filled 
 with laughter, and our tongue with singing ; then said they 
 among the heathen, the Lord hath done great things for 
 them. The Lord hath done great things for us, whereof 
 we are glad."
 
 Diary of Mr. Moem, August 24 to 26. 323 
 
 CHAPTER XVHI. 
 DIARY OF ME. MOENS, Concluded: AUGUST 24 TO 26. 
 
 The sudden Redaction of the Ransom accounted for. The Soldiers rath- 
 er too near. I am still in imminent Danger. Manzo goes round with 
 the Hat for me. Parting Civilities. Interchange of Gifts. Pasquale's 
 Generosity. Pavone is affectionate. I bid him a fond Adieu. One 
 more Night in the Woods. Arrival of Tedesco, my Guide. Manzo's 
 Mother. My parting Advice to Manzo. My elegant Appearance. 
 Kindness of the Peasants. Crosses on the Mountains. In sight of 
 Giffoni. My Reception there. Kindness of the Visconti Family. 
 Arrival of my Wife at Giffoni. We return together to Salerno. 
 
 THE morning of the 24th of August was most exciting 
 for me, already in a perfect fever as I was from the want of 
 sleep during the last week. I had been promised my free- 
 dom to-day, and expected every moment that Signer Vis- 
 conti's old shepherd, Fortunate Tedesco, would come up to 
 guide me to Giffoni. Though not so carefully looked after 
 as before, I had still to behave as one of the band, lest my 
 movements should betray them. During the walk of the 
 last night twenty of the brigands went into a field of maize, 
 and each of them had at least twenty or thirty spikes when 
 they returned to us ; this will show the mischief done in 
 about ten minutes by these robbers. This was the only 
 food the band had all the rest of the time I was with them, 
 and a most indigestible diet it is when cooked by being 
 simply thrown on the live embers of a wood fire. 
 
 To-day Manzo gave me some letters he had kept from me
 
 324 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 for a long time. One was from my friend H. C , in En- 
 glish, which gave me the first intimation I received of his 
 having come out from England to Naples to try and procure 
 my liberation. 
 
 There was another from my wife, half in English, which 
 was most painful for me to read, for it showed the anguish 
 from which she was suffering. There were also letters from 
 Mr. Bonham and Mr. Holme ; and last, but not least, there 
 was one which gave me the clew to the reduction of the 
 ransom from 50,000 to 30,000 ducats, viz., an official letter 
 from the prefect at Salerno to my wife, stating that the 
 Italian government had not paid and would not pay a ducat 
 toward our ransom. My captors had evidently believed 
 that the prefect in this letter expressed the real intention 
 of his government ; but I must say that I sincerely trust the 
 worthy prefect was mistaken, and that the Italian govern- 
 ment will, sooner or later, compensate Mr. Aynsley and me 
 for the losses inflicted on us through the negligence of their 
 subordinates. These letters were all sent on to Giffoni on 
 the 3d of July, with the third installment of the ransom.* 
 They were the first I had received for two months, my last 
 dates being the 23d of June, and it was now the 24th of 
 August ! No one can imagine the anguish I suffered from 
 not having any news all this time : sometimes the wretches 
 would tell me my wife was dead or gone to England ; at 
 other times they would say that she was well and at Naples. 
 
 Manzo now asked me for all my letters, and kept all those 
 written in English, but returned me the others; he also 
 asked for my dear little Prayer-book and Fenelon, and 
 (juietly put them in his pocket. I had the greatest difficul- 
 ty in inducing him to let me have them back, for he feared 
 lest I had made any notes in them that might prove injuri-
 
 Diary of Mr. Mben-s, August 24 to 26. 325 
 
 ous to the band ; but at last, after carefully examining them, 
 he allowed me to take them with me. My notes, which I 
 had made in a small Letts's Diary, I had cut out some days 
 before, and concealed in the inner lining of my waistcoat. 
 I then wrote some more in the little book on purpose for 
 them to tear out. Manzo did this at once on my offering 
 the little book for his inspection. These notes have proved 
 of the greatest service in enabling me to sketch out this 
 narrative, fixing the days on which we changed our hiding- 
 places, and recalling to mind many things that would other- 
 wise certainly have escaped my memory. 
 
 Hour after hour I waited for Tedesco, but he did not ap- 
 pear. 
 
 There was great gambling going on to-day. I saw Man- 
 zo lose seventy Napoleons at one toss. Two others of the 
 band lost all their share, and the money was now nearly all 
 in the hands of the captain, Andrea, Generoso, and Pasquale. 
 We moved a little up the mountain, when all at once we 
 heard in the valley below a great noise of people talking 
 loudly, and the brigands, going to reconnoitre, returned with 
 the intelligence that there was a large force of soldiers sur- 
 rounding the mountain. This was most unsatisfactory news 
 for me, for Manzo made me follow the band up the mount- 
 ain, and if it came to a fight, I felt sure that either the brig- 
 ands (especially Scope) or the soldiers would certainly make 
 me a target, and that I should have the pleasure of being 
 shot after all the ransom had been paid, or have the satis- 
 faction of spending several more days with the band, should 
 it be necessary to take me with them to another neighbor- 
 hood. I told them that I did not believe the soldiers knew 
 of or were looking for the band, for if they were, they 
 would never make so much noise. I thought of the quiet 
 movements of English troops, contrasted with the hubbub
 
 326 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 below, where every private was trying to outbawl his com- 
 rade. In a short time I heard the joyful news that they 
 were moving away in the direction of Bagnuolo, conveying 
 with them a number of peasants, whom they had arrested 
 for aiding the brigands. All these prisoners were mounted 
 on mules and donkeys, having their feet tied together under 
 the beasts (as I was told by Pavone) to prevent them from 
 escaping. It was the greatest relief to me to see them de- 
 part, with their muskets flashing in the sun, for I was so 
 afraid that Manzo would think that there was some conniv- 
 ance between the authorities and my friends, the latter help- 
 ing to do what they could to exterminate the brigands now 
 that they thought I had been set free. 
 
 If the soldiers had by chance seen or got information of 
 the whereabouts of the band, the brigands certainly would 
 have thought this, and would have cut my throat in an in- 
 stant. I always had the greatest horror of the stiletto in 
 the possession of Pavone, which had taken the lives of two 
 peasants who had come under the term of infame. This 
 weapon on one occasion had been lent to Scope, when he 
 was my sole guardian one evening, for the purpose of using 
 against me should I suddenly attack him. This had not 
 been intended for me to see; but as I was always attend- 
 ing to the slightest action on the pai't of my captors, I had 
 noticed the stiletto passed from the one to the other. At 
 about five o'clock there was a grand consultation about 
 their next movements, Giardullo's late followers taking a 
 great lead, and insisting on their advice being followed, 
 and eventually they got the best of the argument. I could 
 clearly see that these four men would have a great influence 
 in the actions of Manzo's band ; and that, having very little 
 money, and being very determined old hands at brigandage, 
 they would not fail to keep the province in a constant state
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, August 24 to 26. 327 
 
 of agitation, and this has very soon proved to be the case.* 
 Manzo and seven of his men had not only to deliver me 
 over to the guide, but to get bread, and (as I distinctly 
 heard) to receive some money. This confirmed me in an 
 idea I had formed that there was another prisoner in their 
 hands, for some of the band were absent, and I could not 
 account for this in any other way. We had a fortnight ago 
 heard that Manzo had gone down for the purpose of taking 
 somebody. 
 
 Before they separated, Manzo took off his wide-awake, 
 and, putting some Napoleons in it, went round making a 
 collection for me (as he expressed it), " to go to Naples like 
 a gentleman !" They were not as generous as he expected, 
 and he went to the bag of gold carried by Generoso for the 
 expenses of the band, and made up from the general fund 
 the sum of seventeen and a half Napoleons, which he hand- 
 ed over to me. I on this asked him for a very thick, long 
 gold chain he always wore : he was taking it off to give to 
 me, when he was called away by some one, and I lost the 
 intended gift. Generoso gave me a ring as a keepsake. I 
 asked him for his knife which had taken the lives of two 
 men, and which I wanted to show as a specimen of a brig- 
 and's weapon. When open it was more than twelve inches 
 in length, and a terrible cut-throat implement; the handle 
 was of horn, ornamented and inlaid with silver. At first he 
 declared that he had lost it, but I got hold of his jacket and 
 produced it. I told him that we had paid him 30,000 duc- 
 ats, and he could easily get another, while in England it 
 would be looked on as a great curiosity; at last he con- 
 sented, and asked me for my tiny penknife, which I gave 
 
 * At the present time (Nov. 1) this same band have no less than five 
 captives M. Wenner, of Salerno, and some of his employes, and a M. 
 Anfre, a schoolmaster, who had been in their hands once before.
 
 328 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 him in exchange. He did not at all like parting with his, 
 and constantly regretted its loss afterward. Pasquale, the 
 man who, not participating in our ransom, perpetually de- 
 manded that my ears should be cut off, and had always ill- 
 treated me, now came up, and, to my great astonishment, 
 gave me two more Napoleons, which I accepted with thanks, 
 considering it perfectly right on my part to take all they 
 offered me. 
 
 All the rest of the band now went off to the eastward 
 I believe, from a large map of the province I afterward in- 
 spected in England, to the neighborhood of Bagnuolo, and 
 I then saw them for the last time. Before they went, Pa- 
 vone, who had had the special care of me all the time I was 
 with them, came to me and put up his face for me to kiss 
 him ; but this was more than I could stand, and I contented 
 myself with shaking hands with him. 
 
 It was now about six o'clock, and I was now told to fol- 
 low Manzo and his party, and was taken down the mount- 
 ain toward a place where some cattle were feeding. I was 
 told to sit down while they ran to the herds and had a long 
 talk. They returned without getting any thing, for the 
 peasants refused to carry bread, declaring that it was cer- 
 tain death for them to do so. 
 
 I was now taken along the valley and made to sit in places 
 where the expected guides could easily see me, but without 
 any result, though the brigands constantly shouted, in order 
 to attract the attention of the guides, in the manner in which 
 the peasants call one to the other in the mountains. 
 
 They then went to the peasants again who were passing 
 near, driving their cattle toward Acerno, and arrangements 
 were made to obtain other guides should Visconti's men not 
 appear. I was most anxious to make my own way to 
 Acerno, and then get some one to go with me to Giffoni.
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, August 24 to 26. 329 
 
 " Would you not be afraid," they said, " to go alone in these 
 mountains and perish ?" to which I replied, " I have not 
 been afraid of you, who are far worse than any others I am 
 likely to meet, and what should I fear with a good con- 
 science ?" They began to talk of the knowledge of the 
 country I had shown all the time; but at last the captain 
 told me that I had better wait till the next morning, when 
 guides were sure to arrive. I knew this was a command, 
 and had to make up my mind to another night in the woods ; 
 but little sleep did I get, thinking of seeing those from whom 
 I had been separated so long. 
 
 August 25. Though I had been promised that the guides 
 would come at daybreak to take me away, five, six, seven 
 o'clock came without their appearance, and I was in despair. 
 Guange and Catane were with me, the former asking me 
 not to speak of him at Xaples, for he was well known there. 
 I told him he need not fear my saying any thing that would 
 hurt him, for the authorities knew much more of him than 
 I did, as I did not know whether he was called by a nick- 
 name or not. 
 
 All at once, at about half past seven, to my intense joy, 
 Tedesco, Visconti's old shepherd, walked up from the place 
 where Manzo and the others were. He was so pleased to 
 see me that he would kiss me, and I had not the heart to re- 
 fuse him. My first question was to inquire all about my 
 wife, and I was deeply thankful to learn that she was quite 
 well, and had escaped all malarial fever, which is so prev- 
 alent in Naples in summer. He told me that he had been 
 hunting every where for the band since the night of Sun- 
 day, the 20th, when the 3000 were paid. He had a com- 
 panion to help him to carry the money, which weighed 
 nearly forty pounds, and was as much as they could carry 
 up the mountains ; and that it was a most dangerous task,
 
 330 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 although they had been promised the protection of both the 
 Italian and English governments. They had run the great- 
 est danger from the troops, who would certainly, he said, 
 have shot them had they caught them carrying money to 
 the brigands. He told me that he was worn out with the 
 fatigue and hunger he had undergone during the last six 
 days, not having slept once in a house all that time, and that 
 he would have given up the search for the band had he not 
 fallen in with them this morning, though he had vowed not 
 to return without me. Last night he had slept on the other 
 side of the mountain opposite us, not having the slightest 
 idea that we were so close to him. 
 
 He now went back to Manzo, and sent an old woman, 
 who proved to be Manzo's mother, to me ; she had brought 
 a small loaf of white bread and a little omelette for me, 
 which luxuries seemed to be most delicious after the coarse 
 fare I had been subjected to lately. It seemed very curious 
 seeing any one in woman's dress, to which I had been a 
 stranger for so long a time. 
 
 When the old lady went away Manzo came to me, and, 
 sitting down, asked me what I should say to the prefect 
 when he questioned me about his band. I told him that I 
 should tell him that he and his band of about 30 men had 
 been a match for an army of 10,000 men, and that he had 
 proved himself the cleverer of the two. This pleased him 
 immensely, and he quite rubbed his hands with glee, and 
 immediately gave me two rings, which I put on my fingers 
 in brigand fashion. Contrary to his usual practice, he did 
 not caution me against telling about the band and their pro- 
 ceedings, which greatly surprised me, for the Viscontis had 
 been cautioned and threatened in a most violent manner 
 should they say a word. 
 
 He now returned to his men, and I heard the chinking
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, August 24 to 26. 331 
 
 souud of their counting money, which I suppose was the 
 sum he was to receive, which I heard mentioned the day 
 before. At about eleven o'clock Manzo asked me if I 
 should like to go ; so I threw away all the warm clothing 
 I had been carrying about with me so long, tied up in a 
 handkerchief, and which had served me as a pillow at night 
 since the 19th of June. In answer to my inquiries, Manzo 
 informed me that he was well satisfied with the amount we 
 had paid him. My macintosh coat I put in my pocket, and, 
 refusing the proffered kisses, shook hands all around with 
 them, they parting with me in the most friendly way possi- 
 ble. Generoso added another to my stock of rings, making 
 the number five. I recommended Manzo, for the future, 
 not to take foreigners, but to confine his attention to his 
 own countrymen, which would prove far better for him ; 
 for, when a foreigner was taken, it was in all the papers in 
 the world, and it compelled the government to send so 
 many soldiers that the brigands had very little chance of 
 escaping capture. 
 
 I now stepped forward, accompanied by Tedesco and the 
 mother of Manzo, all the brigands wishing me a pleasant 
 journey, waving their arms to me while in sight. They 
 were soon lost to view in the wood, and I walked on a free 
 man, having been a captive in their hands 102 days, all 
 which time I never entered any description of house, sleep- 
 ing always in the open air on the hard ground ! 
 
 It was one of those fearfully hot days, when, in a south- 
 ern clime, every thing looks copper-colored, and when the 
 slightest motion requires great exertion ; but we had a long 
 journey before us, and it was desirable to get to Giffoni be- 
 fore dark, so on we went in the broiling sun. I felt this 
 very much, for when I was with the band I had never 
 walked once in the sun. "Walking in the daytime was only
 
 332 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 attempted when in a dense forest, where it was impossible 
 for the rays of the sun to penetrate. Up hill and down 
 dale we walked ; it seemed so curious to be able to walk 
 in so open a manner, and from habit I kept looking round 
 to see if any one were watching our motions. Tedesco 
 gave me a piece of chocolate, which my late brother cap- 
 tive, Visconti, had kindly sent to me. He had often done 
 so before, but the brigands had always eaten it, and never 
 told me any thing about it. Shirts, too, were sent up two 
 or three times ; but these, in the same way, had never 
 reached me, but were worn by the lucky men who fell in 
 with the guides. 
 
 I was in a desperate plight as regards dress ; and, though 
 I cared little about my appearance when in the woods, I 
 did not quite like showing myself at Giffoni. I had, how- 
 ever, to put on a good face, and make the best of it. My 
 trowsers were all in tatters from catching in the brambles 
 and bushes, and hanging in ribbons at the feet. My coat 
 was covered with the fat and grease of the meat that I had 
 had to carry in the pocket, and all the lining of the skirts 
 was torn to shreds, while constantly sleeping and lying on 
 the dirty ground had quite changed the original color and 
 pattern of the cloth. My wide-awake was dirty and torn. 
 My shirt I had worn day and night since the 19th of June; 
 and my boots were all broken, and many of the seams un- 
 stitched. I am quite certain that none of my friends would 
 have been able to recognize me ; but I cheered myself with 
 the news that a large warm bath would be ready for me on 
 my appearance at Signer Visconti's house, where my friends 
 had sent every thing that I might require in the shape of 
 dress. 
 
 It is almost unnecessary to describe the state of my body. 
 I was covered with sores from the effect of the vermin,
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, August 24 to 26. 333 
 
 through the brigands having steadily refused to allow me 
 to remove my clothing for washing purposes, and never al- 
 lowing me to stop at a stream for fear of the troops coming 
 upon us before I could rearrange my dress. 
 
 In two hours we came to the river running under the 
 hill, where I had spent the last fortnight. I pointed it out 
 to Fortunato. Here we sat down to rest in the shade, for 
 the old woman complained dreadfully of fatigue, and had 
 been lagging behind all the way. While we were sitting 
 here two peasants came up to us, and had a chat with us 
 according to their usual custom, to hear all the news. I 
 was regarded by them with the greatest interest, for every 
 one had heard of the Inglese that had been in the hands of 
 the brigands, and they were full of commiseration for me, 
 and opened their eyes very wide when they heard the enor- 
 mous sum that had been paid, it being the largest sum ever 
 paid in this way. Manzo's mother made me show them the 
 five rings that had been given to me, whic.h she evidently 
 considered reflected great dignity on her as the mother of 
 one who had shown such princely generosity ! It had 
 grieved her to the heart when, in starting, I had taken them 
 all off my fingers, because the swelling of the hands while 
 walking made them feel so uncomfortable, besides the ridic- 
 ulous appearance they presented when worn by me attired 
 as I then was. These two men knew all the band by 
 name, and discussed the generosity of the brigands, who 
 had given me, in their eyes, such magnificent gifts ! They 
 were not behindhand in their hospitable offers, wishing to 
 kill a lamb for me from a flock they were tending on the 
 other side of the stream. They wanted to light a fire and 
 cook it on the spot, saying that they knew I had been half 
 starved. I thanked them for their kind offers, which I de- 
 clined ; but I asked them to pick me some grapes and some
 
 334 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 splendid plums that were hanging quite ripe in the orchard 
 near which we were. They brought a donkey, that I might 
 cross the river on its back, and thus avoid wetting my 
 feet! and we all passed one by one in this manner. On 
 starting again, they wished me a safe journey to England, 
 and, shaking hands with them, I thanked them for their 
 kindness to me, and then we commenced to climb a steep 
 hill, at the top of which was the mule-road on which, while 
 with the brigands, I had seen the soldiers marching along. 
 
 This was the road from Acerno to Giffoni, as I had given 
 my opinion to the brigands, who denied so strenuously that 
 I was convinced I was right. The heat was now greater 
 than ever, being reflected from the white crumbling lime- 
 stone which is common in this part of the country. 
 
 A little farther on we came to a large cross, which had 
 been erected on the spot where a peasant had committed 
 a murder, after which he became a member of Manzo's 
 band, but Fortunato did not tell me which one it was ; on 
 the cross was a small inscription, stating the name of the 
 victim and the date of his death. We saw other crosses on 
 our way, and at one glen, which looked as dark as the deed 
 committed there, I was told that Carmine Amendolo had 
 waited concealed, and in cold blood had shot a man who 
 had crossed him in love.* I had noticed on several of the 
 brigands' guns little crosses they had cut on them, which 
 were in their idea expiatory of the murders committed with 
 
 * Mr. Hilton, in his valuable work on "Brigandage in South Italy," 
 vol. i., p. 243, 244, mentions a story told by Marc Monnier which strong- 
 ly illustrates this custom. A guide to whom a traveler intrusted himself 
 in ascending the Maltese confessed that on various portions of the mount- 
 ain ridges he had erected twenty-nine of these crosses! The morality and 
 religion of such a being indeed belong (as Mr. Hilton says) to the darkest
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, August 24 to 26. 335 
 
 the weapons so marked ; and thus the guns or knives are 
 reverenced according to the number of lives taken by them. 
 This was one of the causes why Generoso was so loth to 
 part with the knife he gave to me. 
 
 On our way we met several parties of peasants, who all 
 stopped to talk with us. One man we spoke to was intro- 
 duced to me as the first ricattato of the band. He was a 
 poor man, and his family had to pay 100 ducats for his re- 
 lease. I told him he was the first and I the last, but he had 
 been more fortunate, for 30,000 ducats was the price set 
 upon my head. At about half past five o'clock we descend- 
 ed a terrible path in a kind of shelf on the side of the pre- 
 cipitous mountain called St. Salvador, in whose sides are 
 three caves supposed to have been inhabited by the saints 
 in days gone by. 
 
 Many a time had I seen the rosy glow of the setting sun 
 on the summit of this mountain during the month of June, 
 when I had been hidden in the neighborhood of Giffoni. 
 
 This place, of which I had heard so much, and which took 
 such a great part (through the services of the Visconti fam- 
 ily) in procuring my liberation, now burst into view. It 
 appeared to consist of a long, rambling series of dwellings, 
 the whole valley being dotted with little houses, composing 
 two or three distinct villages, each of which had its church. 
 The wide, but now nearly dry bed of the river ran right 
 through the place, and on a conical hill was situated an old 
 Norman castle. The position of Signer Visconti's mansion 
 was pointed out to me, and it was a treat to see Fortunato's 
 look of pride when he told me that we were now on his 
 master's land, which was of great extent on both sides of 
 the valley. I now could recognize the place where I had 
 been from the 8th to the 19th of June, and found that it 
 was not three miles from Giffoni.
 
 336 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 When we crossed the river and entered one of the vil- 
 lages (which was composed of the houses inhabited by the 
 peasants attached to the proprietor, who owns the land 
 around, for there are many remains of the feudal system 
 here), our little party was mobbed by all the inhabitants, 
 who poured out to see the foreigner, their bete noir, the in- 
 nocent cause of so many of the villages being depopulated. 
 I was informed that in the provinces of Salerno and Avel- 
 lino no less than 1500 of the peasants had been arrested and 
 imprisoned for complicity with the brigands while I was in 
 their hands. I was in the most uncomfortable state of mind 
 lest any of the relatives should revenge themselves on my 
 person by making ready use of their knives and stilettos. 
 Many of the young girls were very good-looking, and as we 
 passed the water where they were engaged in washing, 
 they all paused in their occupation to have a good look at 
 the bearded foreigner, who, in return, was gratified with a 
 sight to which he had been long a stranger. 
 
 Here I was met by a sergeant of the Carabineers and two 
 of his men off duty, who ordered me, in the roughest way 
 possible, to go to the other end of the village, half a mile 
 out of my road, to the head-quarters of their corps, that I 
 might be examined by the captain ; but, as they admitted 
 they had no orders about me, and I was very tired, and anx- 
 ious to wash off the dirt of three and a half months, and to 
 change my clothes, I refused to go. The sergeant was most 
 impertinent in his manner, and so I told him that, if I was 
 wanted, I should be found at Signor Visconti's house, and 
 walked on. I was soon overtaken by a boy, sent after me 
 to say that if I waited a minute the captain would join me, 
 which he very soon did, accompanied by the syndic of the 
 place. These gentlemen most kindly congratulated me on 
 my escape, and asked me what information I could give them
 
 Diary of Mr. Moens, August 24 to 26. 337 
 
 about the brigands. I told them I could tell them nothing 
 that would prove of the slightest use, for I at that time did 
 not know the names of any places which I had been taken 
 to except Acerno. I told them I had been released near 
 that place, and that the band had gone to the eastward. 
 
 As we walked on all the gentry of the place came and 
 welcomed me most warmly, and I noticed that most of them 
 carried guns as a protection against the brigands. When 
 we reached the road leading up to Signer Visconti's man- 
 sion, a carriage drove up, and here I met Mr. Richard 
 Holme, of the firm of Messrs. Gumming, Wood, and Co., of 
 Naples, who had these many weeks been working most inde- 
 fatigably to procure my release, frequently undergoing the 
 greatest possible risk on behalf of me and Mr. Aynsley. It 
 was with the greatest difficulty that I could at first thank 
 him in English, having to supply many words in Italian, and 
 the excitement of the meeting being almost too much for 
 me. Signer Michele di Majo, who also had done so much 
 for us, was with him, and they both seemed as happy as 
 possible to see their exertions crowned with success. 
 
 We now drove through Signor Yisconti's property to 
 his house, where I was received with a perfect ovation, all 
 the members of the family and t^e villagers having assem- 
 bled in the court-yard to receive me as I descended from 
 the carriage. Don Elia, the head of the house, stepped for- 
 ward and saluted me, as did also my fellow-captives, Don 
 Francesco and little Tomasino. Nothing could exceed the 
 warmth of their reception of me, and the kindness I expe- 
 rienced in their hospitable house warm baths, a barber, 
 and every thing I could desire were prepared for me ; at 
 ten o'clock a magnificent supper was ready, and at eleven 
 Mr. Holme returned to Salerno with a letter from me to 
 my wife, telling her of my safety, and that the authorities 
 
 P
 
 338 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 had requested me not to return to Salerno till the next day, 
 as they wished to ask me some questions officially. 
 
 I got little sleep that night, though I enjoyed the luxury 
 of a bed ; and, rising early, I was ready to receive my wife, 
 who, with Mr. Holme, drove from Salerno, arriving at Gif- 
 foni at seven o'clock in the morning. 
 
 The pleasure of this meeting I shall not attempt to de- 
 scribe. In the afternoon we returned together to Salerno 
 with grateful hearts, escorted by cavalry sent specially for 
 the purpose by General Balegno. ,
 
 Reflections on Brigandage : Southern Italy. 339 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 REFLECTIONS ON BEIGANDAGE: SOUTHERN ITALY. 
 
 The Ransom all paid to the Band. No other Persons participate directly. 
 The exorbitant Prices charged for Food. The Peasants the real 
 Gainers. Manutengoli. The real Causes of the Success of Brigand- 
 age. The Roots to be eradicated. Measures proposed. 
 
 IN describing the distribution of a portion of the ransom 
 in a former chapter, I was purposely precise, because at- 
 tempts have been made in certain quarters to suggest that 
 some of the money was kept back en route, as a sort of 
 commission from the brigands; but on every occasion on 
 which money was sent up by our friends, I knew what each 
 man had given him, having actually seen it counted out. 
 It may also thus be proved that none of the ransom money 
 paid to Manzo's band went to Rome, or elsewhere in the 
 province of Salerno ; for when money is once divided among 
 the men, it is perfectly out of the control of their captain, 
 unless for the actual expenses of food, when all the money 
 kept back by him for this purpose is expended ; and then a 
 " whip" is made, according to the necessity of the case, all 
 having to contribute equally. Should any one be without 
 money at the time, he is debited in the captain's accounts, 
 and the amount deducted from the next ransom money. 
 
 I do not believe that any articles of food are supplied by 
 manutengoli gratis to the brigands ; on the other hand, the 
 brigands pay for all they get at most exorbitant prices ; and
 
 340 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 the way in which the ISTapoleons go for bread, sheep, 
 cheese, bacon, etc., is truly surprising. I often inspected 
 the captain's accounts, and saw clearly from them and the 
 price paid for every thing that five sixths of the money re- 
 ceived in shape of ransoms by the brigands go to the peas- 
 ants, who are thus the persons actually benefited by brig- 
 andage! All the time I was in their hands I used to in- 
 quire the prices of various articles of food in the towns, 
 and got a very accurate idea of what the brigands paid for 
 them ; a pezzo, their term for ducat, equal to three shillings 
 and fourpence, was the peasant's ordinary price for a loaf 
 weighing two rotoli (equal to about three and a half pounds 
 English) ; this c6st from threepence to sixpence in the 
 towns, according to whether it was made of rye, maize, or 
 wheat, but this made no difference in the price paid by the 
 brigands. A coarse cotton shirt cost them two and a half 
 ducats, or eight shillings and fourpence, and washing one, 
 a ducat, or three shillings and fourpence ; each cartridge 
 for a revolver cost the same, and every thing else in pro- 
 portion. 
 
 From a calculation I made when with them, I do not 
 think that a band consisting of from twenty-five to thirty 
 men would spend less than 4000 a year for absolute neces- 
 saries, and the rest of their spoils would be lent out among 
 their friends in the country at ten per cent, interest. I 
 recommended them to buy Italian five per cent, stock, as 
 being safer than lending money on personal security ! But 
 they said they never lost any, and they feared the stock be- 
 ing confiscated by the government ! 
 
 When they have got a good sum together by gambling 
 (the ransom money soon gets into three or four hands in 
 this way), and conveyed it to their friends, they give them- 
 selves up to the authorities, and in prison enjoy themselves
 
 Reflections on Brigandage: Southern Italy. 341 
 
 on the extra supply of food paid for out of their savings. 
 They told me that when they buy food for themselves in 
 pi'ison, a profit of 100 per cent, is added to the cost of it by 
 the persons licensed by the governor of the prison for this 
 purpose. While I was with Manzo's band I did not see 
 any traces of manutengolism. Food never came up in great 
 quantities; what clothing the men required they bought 
 for themselves from the peasants who brought the bread. 
 I heard that thirty hats and a quantity of shirts were com- 
 ing up, but I believe that the hats were lost by the surren- 
 der of the brigands who were sent for them. I never saw 
 any thing of the shirts. All the money was divided among 
 the band, both in our case and in that of the two Viscontis; 
 although the manutengoli are generally supposed to share 
 in the plunder, I do not believe this was done in the case 
 of Manzo's band. It may be that the vigilance and extra 
 measures taken by the Italian government while I was in 
 the hands of the brigands caused the rich proprietors and 
 priests who favored their cause to be very cautious in their 
 dealings with these outlaws. Through Giardullo's revela- 
 tions several have been convicted, but my impression is that 
 the brigands gain their knowledge of the movements of 
 galantuomini, as they call rich men living in the country, 
 and of the troops, from the peasants and vettiirini, who can 
 give them all the information and aid they require to carry 
 on a successful career ; and it is against these classes that 
 the Italian government must direct their efforts, if they in- 
 tend to put down brigandage. 
 
 In the way it is now carried on, the proprietors dare not 
 show their faces out of their houses, for they are carried 
 off from the very villages should they venture to go a step 
 from their own doors. All their lands are left to be culti- 
 vated by their laborers at their discretion, without ever be-
 
 342 Unglish Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 ing visited by the owners ; and subject to the rapacity of 
 these peasants, the master gets a certain proportion of his 
 own produce, the peasants bringing home just what pleases 
 them, and no more. It is the same with the shepherds, 
 who are months together in the mountains with their 
 sheep, and between the shepherds and the brigands I sus- 
 pect the poor owner of the sheep has a hard time of it. 
 
 I may perhaps be allowed to say, on the subject of Italian 
 brigandage generally, that I consider that it can not be sup- 
 pressed as long as the interests of the country people are 
 concerned in its maintenance (as they are at present by the 
 high prices given them by the brigands for food and assist- 
 ance), or while their fears of the vendetta forbid them tak- 
 ing any attitude hostile to the brigands. The readers of 
 Count Maffei's book will understand the terrible position 
 of the unfortunate peasantry who are suspected of having 
 given, or of being likely to give, the authorities any inform- 
 ation as to the brigands' movements.* 
 
 The first thing to be done to rescue these poor people 
 from the thraldom in which they now live is to open up the 
 country by roads, and the next is to levy the sum paid as 
 ransom for any captive by a rate on the district haunted by 
 the band. 
 
 If, in addition to this, a court-martial were held on the 
 spot on any one found with more bread on his person than 
 a specified amount, say sufficient for his midday meal, and 
 if, after a speedy trial, any one thus proved to have any 
 dealings whatsoever with the brigands were hanged, ex- 
 cepting always any persons icho may be rescuing one of 
 their family from the brigands' hands, it Avould cause a 
 
 * The career of Caruso, as described in General Pallavicini's letter 
 (Mnffei, vol. ii., p. 227), affords a striking instance of the enormities*om- 
 mitted on these poor unprotected creatures.
 
 Reflections on Brigandage : Soirthern Italy. 343 
 
 state of fear among the peasants at least as great as that 
 now excited by the brigands, and the peasants would soon 
 betray the causes of this scourge of Southern Italy into the 
 hands of the troops, to be dealt with in a different manner 
 from that in which they are at present. What punishment 
 is it to a brigand, formerly an idle, good-for-nothing peasant, 
 who has, by murder or homicide, forfeited all claims to earn- 
 ing an honest livelihood, to be confined in prison, and allow- 
 ed to buy any quantity of food and tobacco with the earn- 
 ings of brigandage ? What do these men glory in more 
 than idleness and plenty to eat ? It is no punishment, but 
 simply retiring from business, to spend a few years in the 
 way that suits them best. I often heard the subject dis- 
 cussed, and this was the way they always spoke of it. 
 
 Severe diseases require sharp remedies; and no wonder 
 that there is such a dissatisfied feeling against the rapidly 
 increasing taxation, while brigandage, which has increased 
 in a similar ratio since the fall of the Bourbons, has had the 
 effect of decreasing the produce of the land brought to the 
 store-house of the proprietors. Were a local force of armed 
 police established, like the constabulary in Ireland, who 
 would have a knowledge of all those aiding the brigands 
 and could watch their movements, it would be of far great- 
 er utility than the thousands of Piedmontese troops who 
 are sent to a province where they are perfect strangers, and 
 vieAved with suspicion and dislike by all, both proprietors 
 and peasants, on account of the ill feeling that exists be- 
 tween the inhabitants of Northern and Southern Italy. 
 
 The military force would be most useful in following up 
 the discoveries and measures of the local police, who would 
 at once know of the arrival of the brigands in any part of 
 the country. These police would know all the inhabitants 
 of the villages and the surrounding country, and if any of
 
 344 English Travelers and Italian Brigands. 
 
 them were absent at night they could be made to account 
 for being abroad. This would speedily prevent all carry- 
 ing of food during the night. In fact, a Curfew Act, such 
 as that which existed not so very long ago in Ireland, would 
 soon produce the desired effect. 
 
 I can not do better than quote a passage from Murray's 
 " Guide to Sicily :" " Whatever the faults of the Bourbon 
 government, it had at least this merit, that it kept the roads 
 throughout its dominions as secure for the traveler as those 
 of Northern Europe. On the main land, this was insured 
 by throwing the responsibility of keeping the roads safe on 
 the several commune or towns. In Sicily it was effected 
 by the system of rural police, called companies at arms. 
 That Sicily is not so secure now as it was under the former 
 regime is not owing to the same causes as disturb the Con- 
 tinental portion of the old kingdom. Brigandage is not 
 carried on there under the mask of political disaffection. 
 There are no bands of reactionists in Sicily in arms against 
 Victor Emmanuel. Those who have taken to the road are 
 of that class which is ever looking out for opportunities of 
 robbery and violence, which has found them in the unsettled 
 state of the island since the expulsion of the Bourbons. 
 When we bear in mind the complete subversion of the old 
 political system, under which every thing was done with 
 the strong hand, and the police claimed the monopoly of 
 committing outrages against persons and property, and the 
 sudden transition from the most abject political slavery to 
 constitutional liberty, the almost entire change, not only of 
 measures but of men, that has since been introduced, it will 
 hardly be matter of surprise that the police machinery has 
 not yet been got into such thorough working order as un- 
 der the Bourbons. 
 
 "This body of rural police was established in 1812, dur-
 
 Reflections on Brigandage: Soiitheni Italy. 345 
 
 ing the occupation of the island by the English ; for at that 
 time, as for ages previous, the island was so overrun by 
 bandits that stringent measures for their suppression were 
 imperatively demanded. To each of the 24 districts of Sic- 
 ily a squadron of horse was assigned, by the name of a com- 
 pany at arms, under the command of a captain appointed 
 by the government, but who selected his own men. This 
 system of police was abolished after the disturbances of 
 1837, and replaced by Neapolitan gensdarmes, who were 
 driven out with the troops in the revolution of 1848; and 
 the compagni, being restored, were confirmed in 1849, on 
 the re-establishment of the royal authority. The captains 
 receive 32 tari; the lieutenants, 10 tari; a private, 8 tari, 
 paid monthly. A tari is fourpence. One quarter of this 
 sum is kept back till the end of the year, in order to meet 
 all contingent demands, for both officers and men are held 
 responsible for all highway robberies committed within 
 their respective districts between sunrise and sunset; and 
 the captains have farther to give security of 2000 onze, 
 equal to 1000, to the government on the same account. 
 Out of their slender pay the men have to purchase and keep 
 a horse, and find their uniform ; but the government pro- 
 vides them with carbine, sword, and pistols. By living in 
 the country towns and villages they learn all the bad char- 
 acters ; and, if a robbery be committed, they know where 
 to look for the property. It is a singular system of police, 
 peculiar to Sicily, which, by the identity of interests secured 
 by the common responsibility, has in ordinary times secured 
 the safety of the roads." 
 
 United Italy is not in half the bad state that is general- 
 ly imagined ; the taxation is only l a head, and the inter- 
 est on its debt is only 10,000,000 to 24,000,000 inhabit- 
 ants. The pay of laborers in Southern Italy is from IQcl. 
 
 P2
 
 346 English Travelers ami Italian Brigands. 
 
 to \5d. a day, and they can live well on 4=d. as regards pro- 
 visions. 
 
 But Italy is an agricultural country ; its wealth is in the 
 produce of the land, and to develop that wealth must the 
 government direct its exertions. Were the country in a 
 state to allow of the proprietors attending personally to the 
 improvement of their own lands, in the course of a few 
 years the revenue would rise to the legitimate requirements 
 of the state ; but as long as the security of the towns only 
 is looked to, and the safety of the producing part of the 
 kingdom made a secondary consideration, Italy will be get- 
 ting deeper in the mire, and continue to have to borrow 
 money to pay the interest of a constantly increasing debt ; 
 and all true lovers of the glorious land will have long to 
 wait to see what they so much desire a strong, independ- 
 ent, and flourishing United Italy.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 A (page 70). 
 Notice posted up in the Hotel Vittoria, Salerno. 
 
 AVIS AUX VOYAGEURS. 
 
 LE Soussigne avertit messieurs les voyageurs et les etrangers en par- 
 ticulier, qui, craignant les malvivants, s'abstiennent peut-etre de visiter 
 les monuments de Paestum, que la rue depuis Salerne au dit lieu de 
 Paestum offre la plus grande surete, d'autant plus, que maintenant, grace 
 a la pre'voyance de M. le Lieutenant-Ge'ne'ral Avenati, commandant la 
 Division Militaire, il s'est fixe des detachements de troupes sur diffe'rents 
 points de la rue, c'est-a-dire, a Battipaglia, Barizzo et Paestum. Quant 
 a la route de Salerne a Amalfi, elle est aussi completement assuree. 
 V. DE MA jo, Proprietaire de VAuberge de, la Vittoria a Salerne. 
 
 Translation posted up alongside the above. 
 
 NOTICE TO TRAVELERS. 
 
 Mr. V. de Majo, proprietor of the Victoria Hotel at Salerno, begs to 
 inform travelers desirous of visiting the Temples of Paestum that the road 
 is now perfectly safe between Salerno and Paastum, owing to the vigilance 
 of General Avenati, the Military Commander of the district, who has 
 stationed patrols along the road at Battipaglia, Barizzo, and Paestum. 
 The road from Salerno to Amalfi is also quite safe. 
 
 V. DE MAJO, Proprietor of the Victoria Hotel at Salerno. 
 
 B (page 166). 
 The Dangers of Signor Visconti? s Position. 
 
 June 7. When Visconti was about to leave the band, Manzo told him 
 that if his father did not consent to forward the money, letters, etc., for 
 me, that they would murder all his family, burn his house, cut down all 
 the olive and chestnut trees, destroy his flocks, and do all the damage 
 they could. This put Signor Visconti in a very awkward position, for
 
 348 Appendix. 
 
 the penalty for being in communication with the brigands is twenty years' 
 imprisonment, and Visconti therefore very wisely got the permission of 
 the Italian government, through Mr. Bonham, before undertaking this 
 dangerous office, which he fulfilled so faithfully and satisfactorily. 
 
 C (page 208). 
 
 Reply of Prefect to Inquiry whether the Government would 
 pay Hansom. 
 
 " Prefettura de Principato Citeriore, Salerno, li 20 Gingno, 1865. 
 " H sottoscritto e dolente di dovere assicurare alia S. I. Illrna. che non 
 solo, non e autorizzato a dare la piu piccola somma per il riscatto dello 
 infelice Inglese, che trovasi in mano dei briganti, ma per dovere di carica 
 deve impedire con tutti i mezzi che sono in suo potere, acciocche non 
 siano mandati loro denari ed altri oggetti. 
 
 "Gradina i sentiment! di stima ed alta consideratione, 
 
 " Del Prefetto, SIGISMOND. 
 
 "Alia Signora Signora Annie Moens, NapolL" 
 
 D (page 209). 
 Translation of a Letter from Signor Visconti to Mrs. Moens. 
 
 "HONORED MADAME MOENS, By last Sunday's post I received your 
 very kind letter, containing another addressed to your unfortunate hus- 
 band. I have not yet forwarded it to its destination, as I have not been 
 able to obtain intelligence of the spot where the band is actually to be 
 found ; but on the first opportunity I will not fail to have it conveyed to 
 Mr. Moens, together with another letter left here for him by your friend 
 Mr. Holme. 
 
 "You have overwhelmed me with so many kind expressions of gratitude 
 and acknowledgment, that I am ashamed to confess that I do not deserve 
 them in the least. I have done nothing for you but write a letter to the 
 brigand chief, with the view of impressing on him the idea which I had 
 formed of your social position, hoping to move him from the enormous 
 amount of ransom for which he holds out. But God has not given me this 
 consolation, for the brigands consider that I am a simple man, easily to be 
 deceived ; they might, indeed, have suspected worse of me ; and their not 
 having entertained any worse supposition I attribute to the mercy of God, 
 who has so remarkably protected my family in restoring to me my eldest 
 son quite uninjured, and even in better health than when he was cap- 
 tured. I trust the Lord will soon grant you the like mercies, and also 
 another favor now even more needful namely, that you may be able to 
 support with patience and resignation the anguish and mental suffering 
 which oppress you, the weight of which I can fully estimate, and in which
 
 Appendix. 349 
 
 I heartily sympathize with you. I am not in a position to render you 
 any other services, my dear madam, than those of receiving letters and 
 money, and transmitting them faithfully to their destination ; and these 
 services I am resolved to continue to perform for you, although they may 
 as I greatly fear compromise me with the government. No thanks 
 or acknowledgment are due to me from you for this, for I seek to do no 
 more than to fulfill the duty of a Christian toward a family suffering (as 
 my own family has suffered) tinder misfortunes, and especially toward an 
 individual who has shared with my son dangers and every kind of suffer- 
 ing incident to a wild life among men bereft of all the feelings of human- 
 ity an individual, too, whom I greatly respect and esteem, though I have 
 not the pleasure of his acquaintance. 
 
 "I have one request to make of you, namely, that you will recom- 
 mend me to the consul, in whose honorable character and powerful pro- 
 tection I have the greatest confidence ; for the little that I do, I do with- 
 out the formal written authority of the local officials here, having been 
 obliged to content myself hitherto with their simple oral permission. 
 
 ' ' Madam, do not abandon yourself to an excess of grief. God will 
 console you when you least expect it be it by softening the hearts of 
 those savage and unreasoning beings, or by using some of those means 
 of controlling human affairs which are in the power of Him alone. Trust 
 in God with that same confidence which my son assures me your worthy 
 husband has -never ceased to display during all his misfortunes. 
 
 " Believe me your devoted servant, ELIA VISCONTI." 
 
 E (page 231). 
 Translation of a Letter to Signor Visconti from Manzo. 
 
 " SIG. D. ELIA VISCOSTI, lean do nothing more, because my band 
 require absolutely 50,000 ducats, othenvise they wish to take his life; 
 therefore then, with many tears of my mother, and many prayers of my 
 mother and Fortunato Tedesco, they had compassion ; they cried so much 
 that they wanted to take him with them. I interceded with my band, 
 because they wished to take away his life ; thereupon they said they 
 would have 30,000 ducats, with what I have already received, without 
 deducting a centime 30,000 ducats, otherwise we shall take his life. 
 
 "CAPITANO MANZO." 
 
 F (page 247). 
 Were the Brigands connected with Francis II. ? 
 
 On the 17th of May, Carmine Amendolo showed me the commission 
 he had received, signed by "Tardio." This Giuseppe Tardio was a na-
 
 350 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 tire of the province of Salerno, and had been a law student, but at the 
 age of twenty-five he went to Rome, and there organized a band to make 
 the vain attempt to restore Francis II. to the throne of his fathers ; with 
 these he returned to his province, and signed proclamations as " Captain 
 commanding the Bourbon army." 
 
 This commission of Amendolo's was written on the back of a carte de 
 visite of Francis II., and officially stamped with the arms of the house 
 of Bourbon. 
 
 He also had had another commission making him sergeant, and an- 
 other raising him to the rank of adjutant, in consideration of his great 
 services ; these were written on letter-paper, also signed by Tardio, and 
 stamped with the official seal of the deposed monarch. The latest date 
 of these documents was July, 1863. I do not think that any others of 
 the band had similar documents, or they would have been certain to 
 have shown them to me, as they did any thing that they had in the shape 
 of writing. 
 
 Amendolo was caught in August while trying to hide himself in a 
 ditch, and dragged out by the soldiers. Having his gun with him at the 
 time, he stands but little chance of getting off with his life. 
 
 On one occasion I was asked by all whether I was not a relative of 
 Francis II., for the band had heard something of the kind from the 
 peasants. I believe that some letters were written to the ex-king at 
 Rome concerning me, and this, being talked about in the towns, had soon 
 spread through the country. 
 
 It was with the greatest difficulty that I could persuade them that I 
 had nothing to do with the Bourbon race. 
 
 G (page 289). A Brigand Song. 
 
 1 CAKZONETTA. . 
 
 Allegretto moderate. J j. j| 
 
 v- 
 
 TJn gior - no andiedi in ca - me - ra La bel - la 
 
 
 non ci 8te 
 
 va Un gior -no andiedi in ca - me- 
 
 i 
 
 - ^ . 
 
 E=fifet*H|fc^r*: 
 
 =^=g= ik=b=c^gj^_ 3 _L T 
 
 ^ ?=- P^-5-*- 
 
 ra La bel - la none ci ste 
 
 va Se n'e - ra
 
 Appendix. 
 
 351 
 
 Efe^E 
 
 to La bel - la a ri - po - sa - re 
 
 anda - ta a let - to La bel - la a ri - po - sa - re. 
 
 Io gli diedi la mano 
 La bella non senteva 
 Le diedi un bacio d' amore 
 Oimo ! che son tradita. 
 
 Tu rondinella cara 
 Non sei tradita ancora. 
 Io son quel giovinetto 
 Che sempre a te pensava. 
 
 Un giorno jetti pe mare ; 
 Li spezzano le vele 
 Questa uennella mia 
 Sempre appresso mi steva. 
 
 Una stanza ordinata ; 
 Le sedie preparate : 
 I beccamorti subito 
 Preparano la bara. 
 
 Se ne vene hi sargente 
 Co nu magro de fune 
 C 1 attacca a dui a dui 
 A lu carcere ci porta. 
 
 Quannu furun 'ntribunale 
 Si pcrive na sentenza 
 O cielo che spartenza 
 Che ne sara di me. 
 
 In questo camerone 
 Ci stanno 'nquantitate 
 Di muonici e di prievesti 
 Carcerati 'nquantita. 
 
 Vurria reclamare 
 Diletto pressidente, 
 Ora pietosamente 
 Damme la liberta. 
 
 Allegro. 
 
 2* CANZONETTA. 
 
 d nostro, Addio Ma - da ^nfa nfa, ad - dio Mon - sft nfu nfu, Can- ta il 
 
 T - -- -r- N - K K - 
 
 gallo e fa - ra cu - cu - ri - cu, 
 
 ra cu - cu - ri - cu. 
 
 II pertusillo e vostro 
 II demaniale 6 nostro 
 Addio MaiH't nfa nfa 
 Addio Monsu nfu nfu 
 Canta il gallo e fara cucuricu. 
 
 Noi belle donne 
 'Npietto avite le zizzarelle 
 Addio Mada nfa nfa 
 Addio Monsu nfu nfu 
 Canta il gallo e farii cucuricu.
 
 352 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 Le zizzarelle son vostre 
 II demaniale e nostro 
 Addio Mada nfa nfa 
 Addio Monsu nfu nfu 
 Canta il gallo e fara cucuricu. 
 
 La giardiniello 6 vostro 
 H demaniale 6 nostro 
 Addio Mada nfa nfa 
 Addio Monsu nfu nfu 
 Canta il gallo e fara cucuricii. 
 
 La boscherillo 6 vostro 
 II demaniale e nostro 
 Addio Mada nfa nfa 
 Addio Monsu nfu nfu 
 Canta il gallo e fara cucuricu. 
 
 Quel ch' 6 nostro e vostro 
 Quel ch' 6 vostro 6 nostro 
 Addio Mada nfa nfa 
 Addio Monsu nfu nfu 
 Canta il gallo e fara cucuricu. 
 
 H (page 296). 
 
 The last Letter from the Captive to his Wife, dictated ver- 
 batim by Manzo. 
 
 " 31 Juglio, 1S65. 
 
 "O moglia ingrata, O moglia crudele, come mi avate abandonato, con 
 quale coraggio mi volete fare morire per denaro, uno povero uomo cosi 
 abandonato da tutte ! O moglia ingrata, come mi ai abandonato, cosi 
 come io nonne vi so niente ! Mi volete far morire per denaro. O mo- 
 glia, movetevi a compassione e pieta verso di me, povero, afflitto e sven- 
 turato ! Che m'avate cosi abandonato da tutte, ho veduto la mia morte 
 con miei occhi a poco a poco, movetevi con compassione, fatelo per cinque 
 piaghe di Jesu Christo nonne mi fate morire cosi, a poco a poco. O 
 moglia carissima movetevi a compassione, mandate il denaro, portatevi a 
 piedi al nostro consule Inglese e al nostri concittadini ; pregate che man- 
 dassino il denaro che se movessero a compassione di uno disgrazziato 
 giovane Inglese, che non mi facessero morire nel boschi del regno di 
 Napoli, movesse a compassione e pieta che non mi abandonassero, non 
 mi facessero morire nel boschi, che le mia came sarebbe mangiata dal 
 animale salvatici, mandate il denaro, avate pieta della mia carne. Non 
 credete che mi riscattate colle forze pubblice queste e la piu pcggiore 
 cosa per mi chi vogliono il denaro per mio riscatto, non mai la forza mi 
 riscata, morto non vivo, chi vogliono il denaro, non la forza per mio ris- 
 catto si voi non mandate il denaro, certo sono morto ; e mandate presto 
 il denaro, perche io non posso soffrire piu. O carissima moglia, io scrivo 
 a voi nuovo ; non posso soffrire piu, sono tre parte morto con fame, tre 
 giorni senza cibo e poi un poco di carne crude ; sono si debole che e dif- 
 ficile per me di camminare ; se volete di rivedermi e importante assai che 
 mandate il denaro subito, subito non in si poce somine, ma in piu grande. 
 Non tengo lettere di voi dopo il 23 Junio ; sono molto lontano ; il capi- 
 tano ha ricevuto il denaro, e subito quando il denaro e pagato sono lib- 
 erate. Non credava che i nostri amici erano si crudeli contro me, non 
 hanno una scintilla di pieta verso me. 
 
 " Credetemi se il denaro non e pagato presto presto, e securo che io 
 morro ; sono si debole, sono spesso due giorai senza cibo e aqua, che fate, 
 carissima, che lasciatemi cosi? Mandatemi due camice di cotone del 
 paese, e uno nuovo pajo di calzone forte, e due pajo forte di calzetta di
 
 Appendix. 353 
 
 lanata oscura. Se non potete mandare il denaro, sono pieno di pidocchi 
 e sono coperto di piage. Addio, addio, carissima inia, ho lasciato ogni 
 speranza di rivederti. Vostro sempre amante e affezionato mafito, 
 
 "W. J. C. M." 
 
 On the back was written in English, 
 
 "Trust in God only keeps me alive. I have told them to send you 
 my books if I die. Adieu, dearest A." 
 
 I (page 315). 
 
 Letter written by a celebrated Jlrigand Chief to Manzo in 
 behalf of the Captive, and given to Mrs. Moens. 
 
 "Mio DEGNO SIGNORE, Voi siete 1'uomo esimio, e che fate risplen- 
 dere il vostro nome da per tutto, senza commettere vilezze ed azzioni 
 vituperose, percio, adesso siete 1'arbitre della vita d'un forestiere, che non 
 avendo mezzi geme quale belva, senza potersi giovare. e la moglie ra- 
 minga senza potergli dare aiuto perche priva di mezzi ed ancorche volesse 
 farvi giungere una somma per riparare ai vostri bisogni, con chi ? e con 
 qual mezzo ? percio usate a costui gentilezze, carita, e commiserazione 
 con rimandarlo libero a cosa sua ; imitate un Baldarelli, un Caliglieri, i 
 Capozzoli, ed il celebre Talarico, che si decanta per generosita. Finisco 
 con espormi a vostri comandi, e mi dico 
 
 " Vto. amico aff to P. L." 
 
 K (page 321). 
 Copy of Manzo's Receipt.
 
 354 Appendix. 
 
 Translation. 
 
 "I have received from Don Elia Visconti, in four payments, the sum 
 of a hundred and twenty-seven thousand four hundred and eighty livres, 
 being thirty thousand ducats, for the ransom of the Englishman Moens. 
 
 ' ; (Signed) CAPTAIN MAXZO. 
 
 "Mondogerio, the 20th August, 1805." 
 
 L. 
 
 Names ofJBrigands Arrested, Tried, dnd Shot in 1865, in 
 the Provinces of Salerno. 
 
 1. Spinelli. an under captain. 
 
 2. Mayaldi. 
 
 3. Pallotta. 
 
 4. Saccoccia. 
 
 5. Antonio Maratea, alias Giardullo, captain. 
 
 6. Carmine Amendolo. 
 
 7. Vincenzo Pizza. 
 
 Twelve others, belonging to Manfro's and Palumbo's bands, were cap- 
 tured in a house of a priest in the province of Avellino, after an obstinate 
 fight with the troops. 
 
 The total number taken and tried in the two provinces of Avellino 
 and Salerno during the year was about 70. 
 
 M. 
 
 The Names of the Manutengoli ^cho were Arrested in 1865. 
 
 The two Brothers Caggiano, of St. Rufo. 
 The Priest Pagano and his nephew, of the same place. 
 The Priest di Vincenzo and all his brother's family, of Castel-Civita. 
 Don Nicola Budetta, of Montecorvino Rovella. 
 The Baron Giacomo Perrotta and his brother (a priest). 
 Don Francesco and Don Domenico Copeta. 
 Don Vincenzo and Don Eusebio Castagna. 
 Dottore Antonino Cubicciotti. 
 Signer Benedetto Cozzi. 
 Don Giovani-battista Rocco. 
 
 Don Alfonso Adelizzi and his brother, all of Campagna d'Eboli, im- 
 plicated with the band of Giardullo. 
 
 The Syndaco of Sicignano (Pro. of Salerno). 
 
 The Syndaco of Senerchia and all his family (Pro. of Avellino). 
 
 Dottore Andrea Marano, of Montella.
 
 Appendix. 
 
 355 
 
 N. 
 
 Number of Soldiers in the two Provinces in March and 
 
 April, 1865. 
 6000 regulars, besides the Carabineers and National Guard. 
 
 Number of Soldiers in the two Provinces in July and 
 August, 1865. 
 
 9000 regulars, besides the Carabineers and National Guard (called out 
 specially). 
 
 o. 
 
 Names of the Persons seized and held to Hansom in 1 865 
 by Manzo and Giardidlo, and amounts of Hansoms de- 
 manded and paid. 
 
 Francs Francs 
 
 demanded. paid. 
 
 1. The Brothers Salvatore, cheese merchants, of 
 
 Eboli 106,250 38,038 
 
 2. Don Francesco Comelli, railway engineer 212,500 45,000 
 
 3. Signori Perito and Gallotta, Canons of Eboli.. 85,000 28,475 
 
 4. Adamo Postiglione, visitor to Eboli 51,000 15,300 
 
 5. Signori Achilli Bellelli and Salvatore Magnone 170,000 51,000 
 
 6. Signori Francesco and Tomasino Visconti 170,000 109,250 
 
 7. W. J. C. Moens and Rev. J. C. Murray Ayns- 
 
 ley, England 212,500 127,500 
 
 8. Signer Wenner (and employes) son of Signer 
 
 Alberto Wenner, calico-printer of Salerno... 1,062,500 "125,000 
 
 2.069,750 536,563 
 
 or, 82,788 demanded, and 21,462 paid to the brigands of the province 
 of Salerno for eight captives, many other smaller amounts having been 
 also paid during this time for persons of less consequence. 
 
 * Taken in September, 1865, and now in February, 1866, still with Manzo' s band, who 
 ask the whole sum of 42,500 for their ransom. 
 
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 "They do honor to American Literature, and would do 
 honor to the Literature of any Country in the World." 
 
 THE KISE OF 
 THE DUTCH REPUBLIC. 
 
 & Ijistorg. 
 BY JOHN LOTHEOP MOTLEY. 
 
 New Edition. With a Portrait of WILLIAM OF ORANGE. 3 vols. 
 8vo, Muslin, $9 00. 
 
 We regard this work as the best contribution to modern history that has yet 
 teen made by an American. Methodist Quarterly Review. 
 
 The "History of the Dutch Republic" is a great gift to us; but the heart and 
 earnestness that beat through all its pages are greater, for they give us most 
 timely inspiration to vindicate the true ideas of our country, and to compose an 
 able history of our own. Christian Examiner (Boston). 
 
 Thi.s work bears on its face the evidences of scholarship and research. The 
 arrangement is clear and effective ; the style energetic, lively, and often brilliant. 
 * * * Mr. Motley's instructive volumes will, we trust, have a circulation commen- 
 surate with their interest aud value. Protestant Episcopal Quarterly Review. 
 
 To the illustration of this most interesting period Mr. Motley has brought the 
 matured powers of a vigorous and brilliant mind, and the abundant fruits of pa- 
 tient and judicious study and deep reflection. The result is, one of the most 
 important contributions to historical literature that have been made in this coun- 
 try. North American Review. 
 
 We would conclude this notice by earnestly recommending onr readers to pro- 
 cure for themselves this truly great and admirable work, by the production of 
 which the auther has conferred no less honor upon his country than he has won 
 praise and fame for himself, and than which, we can assure them, they can find 
 nothing more attractive or interesting within the compass of modern literature. 
 Evangelical Review. 
 
 It is not often that we have the pleasure of commending to the attention of the 
 lover of books a work of such extraordinary aud unexceptionable excellence as 
 this one. Universalist Quarterly Review. 
 
 There are an elevation and a classic polish in these volumes, and a felicity of 
 grouping and of portraiture, which invest the subject with the attractions of a 
 living and stirring episode in the grand historic drama. Southern Methodist 
 Quarterly Review. 
 
 The author writes with a genial glow and love of his subject. Presbyterian 
 Quarterly Review. 
 
 Mr. Motley is a sturdy Republican and a hearty Protestant His style is live- 
 ly and picturesque, and his work is an honor and an important accession to our 
 national literature. Church Review. 
 
 Mr. Motley's work is an important one, the result of profound research, sincere 
 convictions, sound principles, and manly sentiments; and even those who are 
 most familiar with the history of the period will find in it a fresh and vivid ad- 
 dition to their previous knowledge. It does honor to American literature, and 
 would do honor to the literature of any country in the world. Edinburgh Re- 
 view. 
 
 A serious chasm in English historical literature has been (by this book) very 
 remarkably filled. * * A history as complete as industry and genius can make 
 it now lies before us, of the first twenty years of the revolt of the United Prov- 
 inces. * * * All the essentials of a great writer Mr. Motley eminently possesses. 
 His mind is broad, his industry unwearied. In power of dramatic descriptiou 
 no modern historian, except, perhaps, Mr. Carlyle, surpasses him, and in analy- 
 sis of character he is elaborate and distinct. Westminster Review.
 
 9 MOTLEY'S RISE OF THE DUTCH REPUBLIC 
 
 It is a work of real historical value, the result of accurate criticism, written 
 in a liberal spirit, and from first to last deeply interesting. Atherueum. 
 
 The style is excellent, clear, vivid, eloquent ; and the industry with which 
 original sources have been investigated, and through which new light has been 
 bed over perplexed incidents and characters, entitles Mr. Motley to a high rank 
 in the literature of an age peculiarly rich in history. Xorth British Review. 
 
 It abounds in new information, and, as a first work, commands a very cordial 
 recognition, not merely of the promise it gives, but of the extent and importance 
 of the labor actually performed on it. London Examiner. 
 
 Mr. Motley's "History" is a work of which any country might be proud. 
 f^ress (London). 
 
 Mr. Motley's History will be a standard book of reference in historical litera- 
 ture. Lottdon Literary Gazette. 
 
 Mr. Motley has searched the whole range of historical documents necessary to 
 the composition of his work. London Leader. 
 
 This is really a great work. It belongs to the class of books in which we 
 range our Grotes, Milmans, Merivales, and Macaulays, as the glories of English 
 literature in the department of history. * * Mr. Motley's gifts as a historical 
 writer are among the highest and rarest. Sonconformiat (London). 
 
 Mr. Motley's volumes will well repay perusal. * * * For his learning, his liberal 
 tone, and his generous enthusiasm, we heartily commend him, and bid him good 
 speed for the remainer of his interesting and heroic narrative. Saturday Review. 
 
 The story is a noble one, and is worthily treated. Mr. Motley has had the 
 patience to unravel, with unfailing perseverance, the thousand intricate plots of 
 the adversaries of the Prince of Orange ; but the details and the literal extracts 
 which he has derived from original documents, and transferred to his pages, 
 give a truthful color and a picturesque effect, which are especially charming. 
 London Daily Sews. 
 
 M. Lothrop Motley dans son magnifique tableau de la formation de notre Re- 
 publique. G. GROEX YAH PBIXSTEBEB. 
 
 Our accomplished countryman, Mr. J. Lothrop Motley, who, during the last 
 five years, for the better prosecution of his labors, has established his residence 
 in the neighborhood of the scenes of his narrative. No one acquainted with the 
 fine powers of mind possessed by this scholar, and the earnestness with which he 
 has devoted himself to the task, can doubt that he will do full justice to his im- 
 portant but difficult subject W. H. PRESCOTT. 
 
 The production of such a work as this astonishes, while it gratifies the pride 
 of the American reader. A". Y. Observer. 
 
 The "Rise of the Dutch Republic" at once, and by acclamation, takes its 
 place by the " Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire," as a work which, wheth- 
 er for research, substance, or style, will never be superseded. A". Y. Albion. 
 
 A work upon which all who read the English language may congratulate 
 themselves. AVtc Yorker Handels Zeitung. 
 
 Mr. Motley's place is now (alluding to this book) with Hallam and Lord Ma- 
 hon, Alison and Macaulay in the Old Country, and with Washington Irving, 
 Prescott, and Bancroft in this. A". Y. Times. 
 
 THX authority, in the English tongue, for the history of the period and people 
 to which it refers. A T . Y. Courier and Enquirer. 
 
 This work at once places the author on the list of American historians which 
 has been so signally illustrated by the names of Irving, Prescott, Bancroft, and 
 Hildreth. Boston Times. 
 
 The work is a noble one, and a most desirable acquisition to our historical lit- 
 erature. Mobile Advertiser. 
 
 Such a work is an honor to its author, to his country, and to the age in which 
 it was written. Ohio Farmer. 
 
 Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, 
 
 Franklin Square, New York. 
 
 HABVCB & BBOTHXBS will send the above Work by Mall (postage paid (for ny 
 distance in the I'nited States under 3000 miles), on receipt of the Money.
 
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