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The New Spirit in Egypt 
 
The 
 
 New Spirit in Egypt 
 
 BY 
 
 H. HAMILTON FYFE 
 
 On all great subjects much remains to be said." 
 
 —John Stuart Mill. 
 
 William Blackwood and Sons 
 
 Edinburgh and London 
 
 1911 
 
 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 
 
-5T(07 
 FT ' 
 
 HISTORY 
 
TO LORD NORTHCLIFFE HEARTY THANKS, 
 BOTH FOR THE OPPORTUNITY TO STUDY 
 EGYPT, AND FOR PERMISSION TO MAKE 
 USE OF A NUMBER OF ARTICLES WRITTEN 
 I OR 'THE DAILY MAIL: 
 
 295343 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 I. THE GREEN TRIANGLE . 
 II. CONTRASTS IN CAIRO . 
 
 III. LOOKING TOWARDS THE WEST 
 
 IV. THE HARVEST OP THE SUN . 
 V. THE IMMUTABLE EGYPTIAN . 
 
 VI. THE FELLAH AT HOME . 
 VII. EGYPT "ON THE MAKE " 
 VIII. BRIDGES OF BLESSING . 
 IX. A PROFIT AND LOSS ACCOUNT 
 X. AN EASTERN OXFORD OF 
 CENTURY 
 XI. THE LOGIC OF FACTS . 
 XII. THE NEWSPAPER HABIT 
 
 XIII. A VISIT TO THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY 
 
 XIV. THE SUEZ CANAL QUESTION . 
 XV. THE RISE OF THE "NATIONALISTS 
 
 XVI. THE FRUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARC 
 XVII. SIR ELDON GORST 
 
 • 
 
 X 
 
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 6 
 
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 14 
 
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 22 
 
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 31 
 
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 52 
 
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 61 
 
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 70 
 
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 78 
 
 E TWELFTH 
 
 [ 
 
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 87 
 
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 98 
 
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 113 
 
 LY 
 
 124 
 
 . 
 
 135 
 
 
 144 
 
 lRCHISM 
 
 156 
 
 . . , 
 
 179 
 
Vlll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 XVIII. SOME ERRORS WE HAVE MADE 
 XIX. THE SUDAN TRAIN DE LUXE . 
 XX. THE GARDEN CITY OF AFRICA 
 XXI. SOME LESSONS FROM THE SUDAN 
 XXII. THE FUTURE OF THE SUDAN . 
 XXIII. EDUCATING THE SUDANEE 
 XXIV. THE FUTURE 
 
 192 
 
 205 
 215 
 231 
 241 
 250 
 270 
 
THE NEW SPIEIT IN EGYPT 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 There is only one study which is more fas- 
 cinating than the study of the lives of men — 
 that is the study of the lives of nations. A 
 man's career may be full of incident ; its vicis- 
 situdes may have been romantically varied ; the 
 unfolding of character, the play of tempera- 
 ment, the formation of ideals, may cause 
 the pages of a book to throb and quiver 
 with life. How much more— for those whose 
 minds are trained to grasp it — the develop- 
 ment of a nation, the growth of national 
 consciousness, the interaction of the forces 
 which mould the destiny of a race ! As are 
 
 A 
 
2 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 the lives of men, so are the histories of 
 nations. There is a period of youth, of 
 inexperience, of struggle. There is an age of 
 maturity, of power. There is a long decline 
 into weariness and impotence and death. 
 
 What makes the life of a nation more 
 interesting, and at the same time more 
 difficult to follow, than the life of a man? 
 It is the fact that it spreads over so much 
 longer a space of time, and has so many 
 more ups and downs. The stages are not 
 distinct. There are revivals of energy, re- 
 awakenings of national spirit, after long 
 years of decadence. The curve is only per- 
 ceptible by those who view it steadily and 
 whole. The same law governs all organisms, 
 whether simple or complex. Youth, maturity, 
 decline — that is the inevitable process. The 
 forest is subject to the same influences which 
 affect the individual tree. 
 
 Of all nations the Egyptians have the most 
 
INTRODUCTION. 3 
 
 interesting history, for the reason that we 
 can trace it farthest back. While the Greeks 
 were still mere shepherds, and the Komans 
 wild marshmen, before the Jewish race existed, 
 and while Europe was primeval forest, the 
 Egyptians were a civilised and powerful race. 
 Their armies and their fleets swept over the 
 known world. Their wise men penetrated 
 Nature's secrets; their art dignified both life 
 and death. In sculpture and design they 
 left memorials of their genius at which we 
 marvel still to-day. Their lawgivers framed 
 a system suited to their situation. Their 
 religious philosophers, such as Akhnaton, 
 anticipated the noblest theologies of later 
 times. 
 
 For many centuries the Egyptians kept 
 the leading place among nations ; then, by 
 slow degrees, they sank into decrepitude. 
 At times, under some stimulating influence, 
 they seemed about to regain their lost 
 dominion, but it was never more than a 
 
4 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 passing flicker of the ancient spirit. They 
 were enslaved first by one more vigorous, 
 more youthful people, then by another. 
 The Persians, the Macedonians, the Greeks, 
 the Eomans, each held them down in turn. 
 Finally, they fell beneath the heel of the 
 Turk. It was from this pitiable servitude 
 that Britain rescued them. They were set 
 upon their feet once more ; their ancient 
 prosperity was restored to them. Free and 
 equal justice was substituted for tyranny 
 and corruption. In thirty years the whole 
 aspect of the country has been changed by 
 British rule. 
 
 Thus a new spirit has arisen among the 
 Egyptians, a new spirit which manifests 
 itself in many different ways. Secure from 
 oppression, they have vastly increased their 
 national wealth. Thanks to systematic and 
 scientific irrigation, the land in many parts 
 has doubled its value. Industry and enter- 
 prise have sought to take advantage of 
 
INTRODUCTION. o 
 
 altered conditions. The ideas of educated 
 Egyptians have, in the words of Eiaz Pasha, 
 "taken a new development in the direction 
 of science and progress." 
 
 Seeing these changes, some people in 
 Britain are inclined to believe that our task 
 in Egypt is nearly done. They hear a demand 
 proceeding from a small but voluble class of 
 Egyptians for independence and self-govern- 
 ment, and they are inclined to sympathise 
 with it. The object of this little book is to 
 note some of the tokens of the New Spirit, 
 to correct some of the misapprehensions to 
 which it has given rise, and to discuss the 
 duty of Britain under the altered conditions 
 of the country where her sons have set up 
 so splendid a monument of British energy 
 and British skill. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE GREEN TRIANGLE. 
 
 " Out of the unknown south, 
 Through the dark lands of drouth, 
 
 Far wanders ancient Nile in slumber gliding. . . . 
 
 Long since, before the life of Man 
 Rose from among the lives that creep, 
 "With Time's own tide began 
 That still mysterious sleep, 
 Only to cease when Time shall reach the eternal deep.' 
 
 — Henry Newbolt. 
 
 At half-past five there is a peremptory tap- 
 ping on my cabin-door, and the steward's voice 
 says we are close to Port Said. I tumble 
 up to the deck. It is still dark. We are 
 steaming dead slow through the grey-green 
 water. Ahead is a constellation of many- 
 coloured lights. The air is warm and wooing. 
 It was cold all the way from Marseilles until 
 we got under the lee of Crete. Now we 
 
THE GREEN TRIANGLE. 7 
 
 can feel the hot breath of Africa on our 
 cheeks. 
 
 Half an hour later and we cast anchor. In- 
 stantly the boats which have been hovering 
 round (like vultures waiting for some huge 
 beast to drop) come clinging to the ship's side. 
 With simian agility, scores of villainous-look- 
 ing, petticoated Arabs clamber up by ropes and 
 swing themselves over the gunwale. They 
 might be pirates boarding us to steal and slay. 
 But their looks belie them. They are gentle 
 creatures. Their intent is no more harmful 
 than to carry ashore our baggage and sell us 
 such things as no sane man could want to buy 
 at six o'clock in the morning. Meantime we 
 snatch a hurried breakfast in the half light. 
 
 Before we land the bunkers are open, and 
 from big barges a crowd of blackened natives, 
 clothed chiefly in coal dust, are rushing up 
 planks and hurling fuel in. They work with 
 the energy of men possessed. At night, lit up 
 by flares, they flicker like demons in an inferno 
 of hard labour. In the bright morning they 
 
8 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 go at it even harder, though. The overseer's 
 eye gleams craftily upon them. He can see 
 exactly when there is a chance to speed 
 them up. 
 
 Port Said is not the place one would choose 
 for a honeymoon. Yet even its squalor has 
 a well-to-do air. Its streets seem to say, 
 "Don't think we are poor. We are dirty 
 because we like it better." It has a very 
 decent hotel or two, and when you get to the 
 railway station you may well be surprised. 
 Here order and cleanliness reign. Smart 
 officials, dusky but severely business-like in 
 their European uniforms, point the way to a 
 comfortable corridor train. For a long time 
 British energy struggled desperately with 
 the utter confusion in which it found the 
 Egyptian railways after Ismail's bankruptcy. 
 Every penny of gross profits that could be 
 seized without putting the enterprise out of 
 action was laid hold of by Egypt's creditors. 
 But patient endeavour won out at last. New 
 stock gradually replaced worn-out engines and 
 
THE GREEN TRIANGLE. 9 
 
 dilapidated carriages. Fares and rates were 
 lowered, with the result of attracting more 
 traffic. At the time of the occupation the 
 net earnings of the railways were £693,000. 
 In 1909 they were well over a million and a 
 quarter. In 1907 they passed a million and 
 half even. The goods trains and substantial 
 stations are an outward and visible sign of 
 England's work in Egypt, very pleasant to 
 the traveller just arrived. So after the usual 
 squabble among a dozen Arabs, Sudanese, 
 Syrians, and other picturesque barefooted 
 ruffians in blue or white shirts, who all claim 
 to have carried our bags, we settle down for 
 our four and a half hours' journey to Cairo, 
 and the train pulls punctually out. 
 
 For an hour we run alongside the Suez 
 Canal, through the desert sand. Kecollect 
 what Egypt really is — in the midst of sand a 
 fertile triangle with a fertile ribbon running 
 up from its apex, won from the wilderness by 
 the Nile water on its way to the Mediter- 
 ranean. Here, we are on the edge of the 
 
10 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 triangle. Across the canal the Arabian Desert 
 shimmers in the hot sun. Gradually on the 
 other side of the line cultivation spreads, 
 until at last we are running through a fat 
 country that it does one's heart good to see. 
 Year by year the fellahin, the peasants, 
 have found their labour yield them more and 
 more increase. Under settled government on 
 steady Western lines, instead of a system de- 
 pending on the unchecked whims of incom- 
 petent, wildly spendthrift rulers, the fellah 
 knows where he is. He can make profits for 
 himself, not only for the tax-gatherer. He 
 exports vegetables to Europe. His cotton 
 crop, vastly increased by economy of Nile 
 water, is a source of great wealth to the land. 
 He can harvest two or three crops a year off 
 the same field. Never has the Delta, the 
 triangle, been more prosperous than it is 
 to-day. 
 
 In the warm scented air we see Bible pic- 
 tures all along the line. There is the sower. 
 There are Eachel and Leah at the well, 
 
THE GKEEN TRIANGLE. 11 
 
 balancing their earthen pitchers on their well- 
 set black heads. There is Balaam riding on 
 his ass, and there David minding his flock of 
 long-haired sheep. These wooden ploughs are 
 the same as Abraham used, and very likely 
 he yoked together a camel and a buffalo to 
 trace his furrows, as this farmer does near 
 Abu-Hammad. Beside one plough squats a 
 negro in white, with a tall Turk in brilliant 
 blue gown and scarlet turban standing 
 motionless : they are taking a minute's rest. 
 Along the roadway through the vivid green 
 fields a herd of sheep, goats, kine, and don- 
 keys is driven by half a dozen fat children in 
 fluttering cotton shirts. 
 
 There is plenty of live stock in evidence. In 
 many of the queer brown villages of flat-roofed 
 mud houses new mosques have sprung up, and 
 solid building with brick or stone is going on. 
 Brick-kilns are busy. The fields are dotted 
 with workers, men and women, side by side. 
 Oxen turn the water-wheels which irrigate the 
 land. Once or twice a steam-plough is seen, 
 
12 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 marvellous for Egypt — as it used to be. A 
 fellow-traveller speaks heartily of the difference 
 between now and ten years ago. At the sta- 
 tions, which are being built up more substan- 
 tially, there are more signs of change. Peasant 
 passengers are waiting on all the platforms. 
 They wear stout, side-spring boots, which have 
 a comical air beneath their cotton robes. Per- 
 haps a European overcoat will complete the 
 costume, with turban finishing it off at the 
 top. I wonder whether the advertisement of 
 "Breezy Bognor" in one of the stations is 
 meant to tempt them. There may be stranger 
 things in the future than that. 
 
 Pondering all these things, I hear an English 
 voice from the wearer of a tarbush or fez — an 
 English official in the Government service. And 
 presently a handful of British soldiers in khaki 
 tumble into the train. Here are the creators 
 of the New Spirit. Then I think of the statue 
 of De Lesseps which I saw in the dim dawn at 
 the entrance to Port Said. Yes, French genius 
 contributed too. French genius, which pierced 
 
THE GREEN TRIANGLE. 13 
 
 the isthmus and put Egypt on the highroad 
 to India and Australia and the Far East ; 
 British love of order, which took the financial 
 tangle in hand and straightened out its threads, 
 which gave the native army a backbone, which 
 introduced method and reduced chaos to com- 
 mon-sense, — these are the dominant notes in 
 the new chord which vibrates through the green 
 triangle and the green ribbon which runs up 
 from the triangle's apex along the great river. 
 Here is one result of the vibration — this fine 
 railway station of Cairo, with its wide-spanning 
 single arch. Next minute we are driving 
 through the spacious square outside with its 
 crowds of loafing Orientals, its strings of 
 camels, its hurrying throng of red-fezzed 
 Egyptian effendim in European clothes. So 
 into the world-famous Kamel Street and down 
 we get at Shepheard's Hotel. 
 
14 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 CONTRASTS IN CAIRO. 
 
 " Cairo of the Mouski and of medisevalism is disappearing ; and 
 villadom, begirt with bougainvilleas, is stretching out along the Nile, 
 an ever-advancing arm." — Sir Auckland Colvin. 
 
 Twenty-five years ago Cairo was an Oriental 
 city. To-day it is a mixture, an amazing 
 mixture, of East and West. Sit on the terrace 
 of one of the great hotels on the Kamel Street 
 for half an hour at any time of day and you 
 will see in the passing show the most extra- 
 ordinary medley that the modern world has 
 known. Here dashes a taxicab, and scrambling 
 out of its way is a man on a donkey, who 
 looks as if he came straight out of the Book 
 of Exodus. He jogs along with a dignified 
 air. You meet men riding on donkeys in 
 every street. There are stands for these 
 
CONTRASTS IN CAIRO. 15 
 
 patient animals, just as we have stands for 
 cabs. You can hire them as we take a 
 hansom. 
 
 After the donkey come smart motor-cars 
 and carriages, in which wealthy Cairenes 
 are taking the air. They might be in Picca- 
 dilly or the Avenue des Champs - Elysees. 
 Then suddenly there is a stoppage of the 
 traffic. What is that wailing noise ? It comes 
 from a body of ragged-looking men, beggars 
 apparently, who are shuffling along three or 
 four abreast. They wear white turbans over 
 brown cloth skull-caps. Their dirty robes 
 of white or blue reveal bare legs beneath. 
 Behind them comes a more respectable pro- 
 cession, all men, some in European clothes 
 with the red tarbush or fez, some in long 
 garments of striped silk, showing at the neck 
 a neat embroidered waistcoat. And see, 
 following them again is a bier covered by 
 a coloured cloth and borne upon men's 
 shoulders. 
 
 It is a funeral, a poor man's funeral. A 
 
16 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 well-to-do corpse would have a number of 
 mourners carrying silver censers and dishes 
 of green herbs, to go in front of it. This is 
 the last promenade of a man of no account. 
 Yet the beggars cry with a will, "There is 
 no God but Allah, and Mahommed is His 
 prophet," and the police clear the way. The 
 dead man is attracting more attention than 
 he ever did while he was alive. 
 
 If you wait long enough you are sure to see 
 the stream of fashionable cars and barouches 
 interrupted by a wedding. First comes a 
 band making Oriental music on brass instru- 
 ments or bagpipes and tom-toms, then a 
 string of decorated carriages. The bride's 
 is completely covered over by gay "Man- 
 chester goods." While the marriage feast is 
 going on, the band will play outside the house, 
 which is also profusely decorated. Before 
 the bride joins it the procession takes the 
 bridegroom three times round the quarter in 
 which he lives. Is this a kind of equivalent 
 for the publication of banns? Sometimes the 
 
CONTRASTS IN CAIRO. 17 
 
 guests will mount gaily caparisoned camels 
 instead of going prosaically in cabs, and the 
 procession will be closed by a troop of donkey- 
 riders. 
 
 Here in the Sharia Kamel I doubt whether 
 you would see a camel, but just round any 
 corner they are passing all day long and getting 
 mixed up with the electric street - cars, of 
 which Cairo has an excellent service. Here, 
 however, is a sight better than many camels 
 — a magnificent rider in a regular Arabian 
 Nights costume comes curveting along on a 
 jingling Arab horse. Nearly all the horses 
 in Cairo, even those in cabs, are a joy to 
 behold. They are small, swift, and full of 
 prancing energy. Here, see, is a mounted 
 policeman (English, by the way) on a beautiful 
 bay. The Egyptian cavalry are a smart lot, 
 thanks to British drill sergeants ; it is pretty 
 to watch a squadron of lancers cantering by 
 on their mettlesome little chargers. 
 
 Walk along the pavement and the contrasts 
 are quite as striking as any we have seen in 
 
 B 
 
13 THE NEW SPIKIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 the roadway. Dark-skinned Arabs, Nubian 
 negroes, Coptic Christians, Sudanese, Turks, 
 and Syrians in their flowing robes rub 
 shoulders with the most smartly dressed 
 people of Europe. So far as the natives go 
 it is mostly a crowd of men. In the East 
 one always misses the charm of women's faces 
 to which we are accustomed in Europe. But 
 there are some women. They are nearly all 
 in black, the only wear for the street among 
 Moslems, and their faces are half-hidden by 
 yashmaks, kept in position by a curious 
 brass nose-piece, which has a very uncom- 
 fortable look. But here and there an unveiled 
 Christian native, with silver bracelets round 
 her ankles, carries a burden on her head, or 
 squats in a doorway playing with her children. 
 Outside the cafes sit Europeanised but 
 mostly tarbushed Egyptians, discussing poli- 
 tics with an occasional sheikh or well-to-do 
 peasant in native dress. In this particular 
 street, where tourists especially congregate, 
 dragomans and street -sellers are annoyingly 
 
CONTRASTS IN CAIRO. 19 
 
 numerous. There is little need for an in- 
 telligent person to employ guides at all, but 
 these nuisances do their best to keep up the 
 tradition that no visitor can stir out by him- 
 self. They follow those whom they hope to 
 make their victims with foolish persistence, 
 until a policeman, observing their unwelcome 
 importunity, bids them desist. The police force 
 of Cairo has a smart appearance. The men, 
 natives all, are uniformed in khaki and well 
 drilled — by the English, of course. It is odd 
 to see them wearing the blue-and-white striped 
 armlet of the London constable. But they 
 are a long way off displaying the calm, firm 
 authority of the Metropolitan Police. 
 
 Look, there is one interfering on the other 
 side of the road. The pathway is blocked by 
 building materials which are being used to 
 repair a shop. The policeman shouts and 
 makes angry motions with his hands. The 
 proprietor and his servant wave deprecating 
 palms, and try to persuade him that it does 
 not matter. 
 
20 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Why should people object to walk in the 
 road? That is the Oriental view. But the 
 policeman is filled with the new, the Western 
 spirit. In Europe no one is allowed to block 
 the pathway. No one must do it here. Two 
 British privates in scarlet look on at the 
 row with amused indulgence. " Noisy beggars, 
 these black men," says one to the other. And 
 then comes along a water-seller, a lean, brown 
 fellow with bare chest, who claps two brass 
 plates together all the time. On his back is 
 an earthen jar of Nile water, in his hand a 
 brass flagon, from the long spout of which he 
 pours out for thirsty subjects into small cups. 
 You meet these men constantly all over Cairo, 
 and they seem to do a brisk trade. Cake- 
 sellers flourish also ; so do vendors of oranges 
 and baked chestnuts and pistachios, and rings 
 of salted bread. 
 
 So we have reached the Opera Square and 
 the pretty garden laid out so carefully close 
 by. On our right now lies new Cairo, the 
 quarter which might be in any European 
 
CONTRASTS IN CAIRO. 21 
 
 city, with its handsome blocks of flats, its 
 wide roads and well-laid sidewalks, bordered 
 by waving palms which stand out so sharply 
 against the clear blue sky. On our left are 
 the native districts, the warrens of narrow 
 lanes and alleys where the mass of the popu- 
 lation live. Most people think of Cairo as a 
 pleasure -city, where there are dances every 
 night in vast and luxurious hotels ; where 
 one can play golf and lawn -tennis and polo, 
 and go to race-meetings and give tea-parties, 
 and enjoy the sunshine without altering one's 
 way of life to any noticeable extent. That 
 is an important side of Cairo, no doubt. It 
 brings in much money, and it helps on the 
 process of Westernisation. 
 
 But do not forget that Cairo is a great city 
 with a life which goes on entirely independent 
 of its winter butterflies. It is the largest 
 city in Africa. Its native population alone 
 numbers nearly three-quarters of a million. 
 It is among them that we shall find the 
 strangest contrasts after all. 
 
22 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 LOOKING TOWARDS THE WEST. 
 
 " Cairo stands aloof . . . even in the midst of what seems 
 perhaps like intimacy, Eastern to the soul, though the fantasies, 
 the passions, the vulgarities, the brilliant ineptitudes of the West 
 beat about it like waves about some unyielding wall of the sea." 
 — Robert Hichens. 
 
 In the centre of Cairo, before the Opera 
 House (which was one of the extravagances 
 that swelled Khedive Ismail's debts to their 
 amazing total of ninety million pounds), there 
 stands a statue. It is a statue of Ibrahim 
 Pasha on horseback. He has his arm out- 
 stretched, pointing to the West. 
 
 That seemed to me, directly I saw it, to be 
 allegorical of the destiny of Egypt. Ismail 
 the Extravagant said himself, "Egypt is no 
 longer in Africa; we are part of Europe." 
 
LOOKING TOWARDS THE WEST. 23 
 
 It was not true when he said it. It is 
 not true yet. But every year the process of 
 Westernisation brings the day nearer when 
 it will be true. The eyes of the Egyptians 
 are turned in the direction towards which 
 Ibrahim Pasha's right arm is pointing. It 
 is pointing to the West. 
 
 Here, indeed, at the Opera Square, one 
 might almost be in Europe. The shops, 
 the hotels with their broad terraces, the 
 electric street -cars, the motor - " taxis," the 
 neat little two -horse victorias, the well-kept 
 gardens, where the birds are filling the ex- 
 quisitely fresh morning air with their cheer- 
 ful melody, — all these conspire to deceive. 
 Step into one of the victorias and in two or 
 three minutes you will be among surround- 
 ings which seem to be altogether Eastern. 
 
 A few corners turned at a speed which 
 arouses admiration both for the driver and 
 his dashing little steeds, and we enter the 
 Mouski, the long, narrow street which is 
 the backbone of the bazaar quarter. The 
 
24 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 cafe at this end of it has its tables filled 
 already. The town Egyptian spends much 
 of his time sipping coffee and smoking with 
 quiet enjoyment. All classes are the same 
 in this respect. Here the men are mostly 
 in European clothes and wear the tarbush. 
 But you pass numbers of little shops where, 
 on the rough divans within and on the 
 benches outside the door, are seated natives 
 in robes and turbans, passing round the 
 mouthpiece of the hookah pipe, playing 
 cards and dominoes, and exchanging endless 
 gossip at all hours of the day. 
 
 As you look down the Mouski it seems 
 quite hopeless to expect your carriage to 
 make its way through the tangle of traffic. 
 There is scarcely any division into roadway 
 and pavement. The whole street is not 
 much more than twenty feet wide. It is 
 literally full of vehicles as far as you can 
 see, and on each side, squeezing in as near 
 the shops as possible, are picturesque throngs 
 of people on foot. The noise is bewildering. 
 
LOOKING TOWARDS THE WEST. 25 
 
 All the drivers shout all the time as they 
 steer desperately through the pack. 
 
 At a corner there is a complete block. 
 No car-line goes down the Mouski, but one 
 crosses it, and here there is a knot which 
 looks hard to untie. Into the press from a 
 side street shoots a dark-skinned boy on a 
 bicycle. He collides at once with a donkey 
 which can hardly be seen for the spreading 
 burden of green forage on its patient back. 
 Off he falls into the arms of a tall Nubian 
 whose brilliant white teeth gleam against 
 his shining black skin as he smiles with 
 indulgent humour. 
 
 Better get out and walk. We have almost 
 got to the "real" part of the bazaars. At 
 first the Mouski is lined with cheap jewel- 
 lery and watch stores, rubbish from Europe 
 and America; with modern boot shops, with 
 fly-blown haberdashers, with doubtful-looking 
 scent and soap emporia. There are one or 
 two good general drapers on the lines of 
 the Magasins du Louvre in miniature. It 
 
26 THE NEW SPIEIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 is odd to see them crowded with harem 
 ladies, all cloaked and veiled, turning over 
 fallals with eager, critical eyes. They chatter 
 excitedly in undertones as they pack them- 
 selves into the lift to go upstairs. Their 
 dark, lustrous eyes flash humorous glances 
 upon the stranger. 
 
 But now we have left all signs of Europe 
 behind us. Plunge into any of the narrow 
 lanes on either side of the Mouski and you 
 are in ancient Cairo at once. Here Europeans 
 do not often come. They haunt the Khan 
 Khalil, whose network of alleys dates from 
 1400, and where carpets, silks, red shoes, 
 precious stones, are set out to tempt the 
 unwary. " No charge for look - at," say 
 the insidious gentlemen in fezzes. They 
 play the spider - and - fly game with infinite 
 resource. 
 
 In the quarters to which we have pene- 
 trated a fly is seldom seen. English is never 
 heard. In their dark stalls, like big inverted 
 packing-cases, piled high with wares of vari- 
 
LOOKING TOWARDS THE WEST. 27 
 
 ous kinds, sit dignified old men in turbans, 
 their legs crossed beneath them, their fingers 
 playing with their rosaries of beads. In 
 some bargaining is going on. Shopping here 
 is, of course, a leisurely business. Look at 
 this group. A well - to - do Egyptian in a 
 beautiful robe of delicately striped silk and 
 a green turban which shows he went to 
 Mecca last year, is making offers for a donkey 
 saddle gorgeous with embroidery. A number 
 of coins lie upon the ground. Every now 
 and then he flings another down. Talking 
 goes on the whole time. Both he and the 
 seller appeal continually to the spectators. 
 Suddenly the Egyptian sweeps the money 
 together and stands up. The saddler shrugs 
 his shoulders. The Egyptian turns to go. 
 But the saddler has him by the robe in an 
 instant, and next minute down they sit again 
 to continue the entertainment. If that saddle 
 is bought by the middle of next week the 
 business will have been very quickly done ! 
 Before a grain stall three half- naked men 
 
28 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 pound maize in a huge stone mortar with 
 great iron pestles. One of them holds out 
 his for me to try. I can only just lift it 
 in my right hand. Close by a cofFe- roaster 
 with shaven head, according to the fashion 
 here, is making a delicious fragrance amid 
 the unholy odours of this airless spot. Over- 
 head there hang stuffs and straw trusses to 
 keep the sun out, covering the lane in. The 
 effect is wonderful. A dim golden haze softens 
 down all crudities of colour. The whole place 
 is in continual movement, shifting like the 
 patterns of a kaleidoscope. Specially good 
 is the street of the tent - makers, where 
 numberless cross-legged needle-men sew their 
 strips of bright cotton into traditional pat- 
 terns. Such a tent - maker must St Paul 
 have been before that great light shone 
 upon him as he rode. Just here, too, is a 
 gateway where the spirit of a Moslem saint 
 is said to dwell. On all the great nails 
 of the door are shreds of stuff torn from 
 the clothing of believers who seek his aid. 
 
LOOKING TOWARDS THE WEST. 29 
 
 Very reverently the passers-by touch them 
 and stop to say a prayer. All day long 
 there are supplications going up on this 
 holy spot. 
 
 Soon we emerge into more open streets. 
 We pass wide spaces cleared of buildings, 
 eyesores, rubbish - heaps. Old Cairo is dis- 
 appearing. The land boom of a few years 
 back destroyed much of it. And then the 
 " slump," came, and those who had pulled 
 down had no money wherewith to build up. 
 Many of those who have built have given 
 the new streets a squalid, shabby appear- 
 ance. Here and there a beautiful old 
 Arab house stands in pathetic dignity among 
 the cheap and nasty erections of Builder 
 Jerry. 
 
 But there are compensations everywhere. 
 Look at this fine new fire station, with its 
 shining engine and horses ready harnessed 
 and smart firemen in uniform. Much is lost 
 in charm and picturesqueness. But much is 
 gained in orderliness and security. There is 
 
30 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 talk even of giving Cairo a drainage system, 
 if the soil can be disturbed without causing 
 a fearful plague. When once changes begin 
 no one can foresee the end of them. Look 
 at those two grave Arabs exchanging their 
 smileless greetings. They appear altogether 
 untouched by the spirit of change. Yet 
 out of the pocket of one sticks a newspaper 
 in Arabic. Appearances are deceptive every- 
 where, but more so in Cairo than anywhere 
 else. 
 
31 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE HARVEST OF THE SUN. 
 
 " Thy dawning is beauiful in the horizon of Heaven, 
 living Aton, Beginning of Life ! 
 When Thou risest in the Eastern horizon of Heaven 
 Thou fillest every land with thy beauty . . . 
 Thy rays they encompass all lands . . . 
 Though Thou art afar, Thy rays are on earth ; 
 Though Thou art on high, Thy footprints are the day." 
 
 — Hymn to the Sun. Period of Amenophis IV. 
 (Akhnaton), 1375-1358 b.c. 
 
 Among the factors which have produced the 
 New Spirit in Egypt, the Winter Butterflies 
 claim a prominent place. Climate and an- 
 tiquities have combined to make the Nile 
 Valley the favourite winter resort of the world 
 of fashion, and of all who can manage an 
 escape from the grey skies of Northern Europe 
 to snatch the joys of summer in February or 
 March. This has had effect in many direc- 
 
32 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 tions. It has added vastly to the prosperity of 
 Egypt, though the chief profits of the harvest 
 are not reaped by Egyptians, but by Thomas 
 Cook & Sons, and by the foreigners who run the 
 big hotels. It is no thanks to native enterprise 
 that one can voyage on the Nile so delight- 
 fully, and rely on being entertained everywhere 
 in palaces which are world-famous for their 
 luxurious ease. But of course the country 
 benefits by the flow of money which is every 
 winter poured into it. Thousands are em- 
 ployed in ministering directly to the Butter- 
 flies' wants and pleasures. The railways draw 
 rich revenue from the tourist invasion. Guides 
 and donkey- boys grow wealthy. Vendors of 
 " antikas" send their sons to Europe to 
 be educated. The manufacture of scarabs 
 alone must be a flourishing industry — unless 
 (which is more probable) they are imported 
 from Germany or the Five Towns. 
 
 How many visitors land yearly at Alexandria 
 or Port Said and make the regular tour by 
 Cairo, Luxor, Assouan, I was unable to find out. 
 
THE HARVEST OF THE SUN. 33 
 
 For some reason no one cares to give figures. 
 But now that the Germans have taken to going 
 in large numbers, and that the cheap end-of- 
 the-season trips from the United States bring 
 in such enormous quantities of Americans of 
 the oddest type, there can hardly be less 
 than 10,000 visitors a -year. Say that they 
 spend on an average £200 a-piece, which is a 
 low estimate. That represents two millions 
 a-year, not all profit to Egyptians, as I have 
 admitted, but all of it spent in the country, 
 and the greater part sticks there. 
 
 The figures would be even larger if more 
 efforts were made to attract tourists of mod- 
 erate means during November and December 
 when the weather is delicious. If steamship 
 companies and hotels combined to push through 
 an advertising campaign to this end, the former 
 could have their ships full instead of more than 
 half empty, and the latter could make their 
 season six months instead of three. 
 
 Luxor would benefit especially. As the 
 climate changes by reason of the more com- 
 
 c 
 
34 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 petent irrigation and cultivation, the south 
 attracts more and more. Cairo is not what it 
 used to be in January, though, on the other 
 hand, it is very much pleasanter than it used 
 to be in March and April. When there is a 
 cold snap, the Luxor trains de luxe are 
 crowded. Every one who can escape books 
 a sleeper; dines and spends the night on the 
 very comfortable grand express of the Wagon - 
 Lits Company; and breakfasts in Luxor be- 
 hind drawn blinds to keep out the glare and 
 heat of the morning sun. 
 
 You can go to Luxor by river if you choose. 
 The voyage takes several days, which can be 
 very pleasantly passed if you are in a dolce 
 far niente mood. Every now and then the 
 monotony is broken by a shore visit to some 
 temple. If you take an express boat instead 
 of the more elaborate tourist steamer, you 
 stop at many little landing-stages where you 
 get glimpses of the real life of the people. On 
 board, below your promenade-deck, there may 
 be hundreds of natives squatting about, closely 
 
THE HARVEST OF THE SUN. 35 
 
 packed, enduring quite calmly the discomforts 
 of the passage. Sometimes they squat there 
 for days, apparently without suffering any 
 particular inconvenience. I could not help 
 envying them. They had reduced life to a 
 really simple equation. How much worry we 
 should save ourselves if we possessed only one 
 set of garments of the most primitive kind, yet 
 very convenient and dignified, if we could live 
 on a little grain, a few dates, a few tomatoes, 
 eaten with flat cubes of bread ; if we could do 
 our travelling as these wise Easterns do it, 
 simply going aboard a boat, sitting ourselves 
 down, and staying on that spot until the 
 journey was done ! 
 
 Luxor being so popular with tourists, has 
 naturally caught the New Spirit in a very 
 lively manner. Every one who goes to Egypt, 
 goes as far as the site of ancient Thebes and 
 the Tombs of the Seventeenth, Eighteenth, 
 Nineteenth, and Twentieth Dynasty Kings 
 (1580-1090 B.C.) The whole river front above 
 the Temple is dominated by two large excel- 
 
36 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 lent hotels. Between them stretches a row of 
 tourist shops. There are always from January 
 to the end of March big tourist vessels moored 
 at the floats. All the donkey-boys imagine 
 they speak English, and several do speak it 
 quite well. I found one who could also 
 talk German and French intelligibly. He 
 had learnt them so as to endear himself to 
 patrons from all lands. His donkey was 
 called " Britannia " when I rode it. Next day 
 it carried an American, and was addressed 
 as " George Washington." He afterwards ad- 
 mitted to me, in a burst of confidence, that 
 for Germans he called it " Bismarck " and 
 for French people " Napoleon." That boy will 
 certainly get on. 
 
 The tourists have made the Egyptians of the 
 towns acquainted with European ways. Some 
 of them have also, I am afraid, imbued the 
 natives with a certain contempt for Europeans. 
 American women, especially, are often much 
 too familiar with dragomans and donkey-boys. 
 The Oriental underling, if he is not kept in his 
 
THE HARVEST OF THE SUN. 37 
 
 place, presumes very quickly. Orientals recog- 
 nise this themselves. Englishwomen know it 
 instinctively. American men are not unaware 
 of it. But they allow their women- folk to be 
 ignorant of it with regrettable results. The 
 white races only keep up their influence by 
 means of prestige, that indefinable quality 
 which is of more value than many Army 
 corps. If we lose that, we lose everything. 
 I am afraid the invasion of sun -seekers has 
 not made the task of governing Egypt more 
 easy. 
 
 Walk through the dusty, narrow streets of 
 Luxor, where the houses are high enough to 
 shade one even in summer from the burning 
 sun. At every turn you may notice some odd 
 contrast between the Old World and the New. 
 See those bent-backed men filling their water- 
 skins — horrid looking objects which, as you 
 may guess by their shapes, once belonged 
 to goats. The water at the roadside fountain 
 is running out of Birmingham brass taps. It 
 is common nowadays to see water carried in 
 
38 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Standard Oil tins : they are of a very con- 
 venient build for balancing on the head. 
 
 Peer into that dark little stall, and you 
 will see that the Arab tailor is using a 
 Singer sewing-machine. Pursue that curious 
 noise, which somehow reminds you of Harry 
 Lauder, and you will discover that it has its 
 origin in a phonograph which is grinding out 
 " I love a lassie," to the delight of a group 
 of almost naked children. Just beyond, a 
 small flock of black and very woolly sheep is 
 being driven to market. A butcher is going 
 to choose one, when suddenly up canters an 
 eager Arab on a donkey with a fine fat lamb 
 across his saddle-bow. He picks it up and 
 thrusts the owner of the flock aside. Then he 
 begins bargaining with the butcher. We 
 have not time to wait for the result of 
 their violent chaffering. They may be hours 
 before they settle the price. 
 
 There is always music in the air at Luxor. 
 The hawks, which fill the morning everywhere 
 with their soothing trill, are more vocal here 
 
THE HARVEST OF THE SUN. 39 
 
 than in any other place. From the river there 
 come at all hours of the day the songs of 
 rowers and fascinating Eastern music ! One 
 of them sings a line or two, then all join 
 in a refrain. The phrases are hauntingly 
 straightforward, and the steady repetition beats 
 them into the listener's brain. Yet afterwards 
 they elude one. Search as one may, the com- 
 bination cannot be recalled. I have a vivid 
 memory of eight dusky Arabs in scarlet jerseys, 
 under the command of a boatswain in a blue 
 robe, polishing a dahabeah's deck with their 
 feet. Backward and forward swung their nine 
 lithe bodies, all keeping time exactly like a 
 machine. I can see them now distinctly, but 
 for the life of me I cannot recollect how their 
 " chanting " went. It sounded perfectly simple 
 and perfectly satisfying. Yet it has gone. 
 
 On the Luxor side of the wide river there 
 are the stupendous ruins of Karnak, as well as 
 the imposing colonnades of the Luxor Temple 
 itself. Across, among the pink hills which 
 swim in a heat -haze, there are the Kock 
 
40 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Tombs of kings and queens dead centuries 
 before Rome was thought of, before Solomon's 
 Temple was founded, before Homer sang. 
 Every morning in the early brilliance there 
 is a gathering of donkeys, mules, and horses, 
 with a few sand-carts for incapables, on the 
 sandbank across the water. Boats put off 
 from all the Luxor landing - stages crowded 
 with Winter Butterflies in linen suits and 
 cotton dresses, with sun helmets and wide 
 shady hats of stout substance to protect them 
 against sunstroke. The rowers pull and sing 
 and chaff one another. Their song is said 
 to be about the absurd tourist people with 
 monkey faces and ridiculous clothes. But the 
 tourist people do not understand Arabic, and 
 give the singers much backsheesh for their 
 entertainment. 
 
 From the bank, after a helter-skelter across 
 the sand, the cavalcade trots through a village 
 and along paths between well cultivated lands. 
 Then it divides. Some go past the Colossi 
 of Memnon (the huge seated figures which 
 
THE HARVEST OF THE SUN. 41 
 
 once guarded a Temple entrance in a great city, 
 but now loom up weirdly amid green cornfields) 
 to the Eamesseum and Medinet-Habu, a sanc- 
 tuary built by Rameses the Third, with a royal 
 residence attached to it. Others ride through 
 a wild valley between red, desolate hills whose 
 strange shapes remind one of a Gustave Dore 
 illustration to the Inferno, and presently come 
 to the Rock Tombs which have thrown so 
 much light upon Egyptian history. 
 
 Down into the depths we go. Electric lights 
 are switched on, and we can study the wall- 
 paintings which show us the ancient Egyptians 
 in their habits as they lived. We can even see 
 a mummied body in its great stone coffin, ex- 
 actly as it was left there three thousand four 
 hundred and twenty years ago. Most of the 
 mummies have been taken away and put into 
 museums. So have the jewels and the orna- 
 ments, the scarabs and the furniture, placed 
 there by traditional piety. Yet there are still 
 " finds " to be made. 
 
 What a comment, pitiful or humorous accord- 
 
42 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 ing to your temperament, upon the vanity of 
 human wishes ! Consider the immense trouble 
 these monarchs were at to wall up their bones 
 in chambers hewn into the solid rock far below 
 the surface, so that they might never be dis- 
 turbed. Now parties of chattering tourists 
 penetrate daily to the inmost recesses of their 
 tombs and spy upon them by electric light ! 
 
 Not many care to stay long in the under- 
 world. They are glad to get out into the sun 
 again. They welcome the announcement that 
 the next item in the programme is lunch at the 
 Rest-House over the steep ridge which separates 
 the wild valley from the green plain watered by 
 the distant shining Nile. They like better to 
 wander through the Terrace Temple of Queen 
 Hatasu, and to hear the ceaseless chirp of the 
 birds in the ruined colonnades, a cheerful sound 
 of life amid so many emblems and reminders 
 of death. It is the sun which really brings the 
 Winter Butterflies. The remains of a wonder- 
 ful civilisation, long since crumbled into dust, 
 are only a side-show. 
 
THE HARVEST OF THE SUN. 43 
 
 Pierre Loti hated the " cooks and cookesses " 
 for their irrelevant chatter, their lack of imag- 
 inative interest. But Pierre Loti is a " supe- 
 rior person," and he forgets that, if it were not 
 for the tourist throng, he would have found it 
 a very difficult matter to see Egypt himself. 
 Why blame them for their healthy joy in being 
 alive ? They are worshipping in their way 
 the same deity which King Akhnaton strove 
 to exalt to first place among the gods of this 
 land nearly fifty centuries ago. It is Aton, the 
 blessed Sun, who has repaid Egypt in our time 
 for Akhnaton's futile effort. It is a precious 
 harvest which is reaped yearly from his golden 
 beams. 
 
44 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE IMMUTABLE EGYPTIAN. 
 
 " . . . Nor the leopard his spots." 
 
 — Holy Bible. 
 
 If you wander the whole length of the 
 Mouski at Cairo, and still follow on as far 
 as the Windmill Hills, you come in time to 
 the City of the Dead. 
 
 You mount the brown piles of immemorial 
 potsherds, the accumulation of centuries, and 
 down below, outside the wall of Cairo, you 
 see a town. Streets upon streets of houses, 
 mosques with imposing domes and stately 
 minarets, palaces of powerful sultans — a great 
 town baking under the brassy noontide sky. 
 Yet a town without a visible inhabitant, with- 
 out any of the hum and rumour of active 
 
THE IMMUTABLE EGYPTIAN. 45 
 
 life. Silence broods over it. You hear no 
 sound save the tap, tap of a mason's hammer. 
 Palaces, mosques, houses, all radiate oppress- 
 ive stillness. For, all alike, they are memo- 
 rials. This is the City of the Dead. 
 
 Your thoughts flash back to the Pyramid 
 tombs, to the rock-graves of ancient Thebes. 
 Here is a manifestation of the same cult. In 
 Egypt national character changes very slowly. 
 Religions, rulers, even races, fade away and 
 are forgotten. Yet the people who cultivate 
 the green triangle and the green riband re- 
 main throughout the ages strangely the same. 
 They are silly folk who imagine that, after 
 a few years of British tutoring, the Egyptian 
 has altered so completely as to be able to 
 govern himself on Western lines. They base 
 this belief, as a rule, upon pure theory. The 
 signs of order imposed from without they 
 mistake for the results of some inward and 
 spiritual grace. Because almost every one is 
 numbered and ticketed, they cry, " Behold a 
 people ripe for Parliaments." Yet beneath 
 
46 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 the surface there has been almost no change 
 at all. 
 
 To do business with Egyptians carries one 
 back to the Arabian Nights. It is to the 
 Western mind one long waste of time. 
 Suppose a European has motor-cars to sell. 
 He hears a wealthy bey or pasha is inclined 
 to buy one. He calls upon him, is welcomed, 
 is offered coffee and cigarettes, talks upon 
 all kinds of subjects — except motor-cars — is 
 politely invited to come again. He may call 
 half a dozen times before he comes near 
 striking a bargain, and after that he has to 
 secure his money, which very likely takes 
 half a dozen calls more. This is the regular 
 Eastern manner. It is as futile to try to 
 hurry matters on as it is to attempt to deal 
 at fixed prices. Bargaining is part of the 
 pleasure of life. 
 
 To be annoyed with the Eastern manner 
 is unreasonable, though human. Europeans 
 who live in Egypt have often raw edges to 
 their tempers, especially in summer time. 
 
THE IMMUTABLE EGYPTIAN. 4*7 
 
 Yet the only sensible thing to do is to grin 
 and bear it. The East is still as it has always 
 been. Further, one has to make allowances 
 in dealing with the Egyptian functionary. 
 He is generally pleasant and obliging, but 
 you must let him take his time, and never 
 ask him to step outside the strict letter of 
 his position. Sometimes his slowness is mad- 
 dening. On days when mails are in, a tourist 
 office in Cairo is filled with a long queue of 
 people eager for letters. Watch the Egyptian 
 clerk in charge of the post office go through 
 the bundles with conscientious determination 
 to make no mistakes, examining each address 
 at length. Then glance at the line of faces 
 in the queue. You realise that "East is East 
 and West is West, and never the twain shall 
 meet" with peculiar force. 
 
 The Egyptian has many good qualities, but 
 neither managing ability, in the Western 
 sense, nor the power of altering his usual 
 methods to meet emergencies, whether great 
 or small, is among them. As a subordinate 
 
48 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 he is often a model of devotion to duty. But 
 in authority his tendency is to fall into 
 tyranny and corruption : that is the universal 
 testimony of those who know him best. As 
 he has been in the past, so he is still. Sprink- 
 ling a little education over him and putting 
 him into uniform do not change his soul. 
 In the museum one day I was assisted by a 
 smart, intelligent, English-speaking attendant, 
 who, having attended to me, sat down, took 
 his boot off, and proceeded to doctor his feet ! 
 One must get used to differences in customs 
 and in points of view, and refuse to accept 
 the narrow, offhand opinion that a thing is 
 bad because we are not accustomed to it. 
 
 Equally shallow are those who deny that 
 the religion of the Egyptians — I mean Islam, 
 for nine -tenths of them profess that faith — 
 has any effect upon their lives. Often that 
 attitude is taken up by Christians as the only 
 refuge from shame at the far greater piety 
 of the Moslem. At first the visitor from 
 Europe or America watches with amazement 
 
THE IMMUTABLE EGYPTIAN. 49 
 
 the merchant before his shop, the peasant in 
 the fields, the sailor in his vessel, standing 
 and kneeling and bowing in prayer with 
 absorbed devotion and no thought of being 
 laughed at. Soon, however, this becomes so 
 common a sight that it is noticed no longer. 
 Where in a Christian country could one see 
 the like? In Cairo there is a fine block of 
 flats built by the Khedive, and beside it is 
 a little enclosure surrounding a ruinous old 
 mud tomb. This is the tomb of a holy 
 man. Public opinion was too strong for the 
 Khedive even to dare to remove it. It 
 was scheduled for demolition, but it had to 
 stay. 
 
 Moslem piety does not have the same effects, 
 perhaps, as Christian piety, but to pretend 
 that it has none is ludicrous in view of the 
 charity of Mahommedans, their acceptance of 
 the idea of Brotherhood, their simplicity of 
 life. In a big shop in Cairo I was told, as 
 a matter of course, that the proprietors gave 
 10 per cent of the profits to the poor. No 
 
 D 
 
50 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 one ever starves in Egypt. There is always 
 a helping hand. We consider the morality 
 of the East low, yet there is a newspaper in 
 Cairo (probably there are many) which will 
 not accept whisky or other drink advertise- 
 ments, because in a hot country it considers 
 alcohol unhealthy. 
 
 Thrift, leading to the possession of wealth, 
 is not a traditional virtue in Egypt. Until 
 the English came the Turkish Pashas saw to 
 it that any one who saved money on a large 
 scale was thoughtfully relieved of it in case 
 it should become a burden to him. Now it 
 is common for even small men to heap up 
 riches. But they deal with them in quite 
 the traditional way. They secrete their gold 
 just as their ancestors did four thousand 
 years ago. In the cellar of one old man who 
 died not long since were found £80,000 in 
 specie. A farmer who bought some land for 
 £25,000 sent the purchase -money loaded on 
 a train of donkeys. He had dug it up from 
 his garden where it had been lying hid ! No 
 
THE IMMUTABLE EGYPTIAN. 51 
 
 bank for him. He preferred to keep his 
 fortune under his own soil. 
 
 Complaints are often made of the Egyptian 
 labourer. His intelligence is contrasted with 
 that of Europeans. But there is another side 
 to this also. On some irrigation works one 
 day the engineer told me that an iron trolly 
 had run off its rails and plunged into a pond. 
 He was debating how to recover it, when 
 the men on the job proposed diving to try to 
 locate it. Before long one of them had found 
 it, and had made fast a cable to it in twelve 
 feet of water. So secure was his knot that the 
 trolly could be hauled out without further ado. 
 
 In his good qualities and in his bad qualities 
 the Egyptian with his circumstances easier, 
 his personal liberty less precarious, his pro- 
 perty more secure, is very much what he has 
 always been. Beneath the surface the progress 
 of recent years under British tutelage has 
 made next to no difference. It has altered 
 very little his mental processes, his religious 
 attitude, his daily life. 
 
52 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE FELLAH AT HOME. 
 
 14 The wealth of Egypt is essentially agricultural." 
 
 — Lord Cromer. 
 
 His name is Ibrahim. His costume when 
 I first meet him consists of one solitary 
 small garment. 
 
 He is engaged in working his shadoof, 
 the contrivance by which he waters his 
 patch of land. Over a small creek dug 
 out of the river - bank a pole is suspended 
 between two supports. At one end of this 
 pole is a bucket ; at the other a lump of 
 dried clay. Ibrahim pulls down the bucket 
 end of the pole until the bucket reaches the 
 water. It fills itself, then he lets go. The 
 lump of clay pulls it back, and it empties 
 
THE FELLAH AT HOME. 53 
 
 itself into Ibrahim's reservoir or channels, 
 whence he distributes it in runnels over 
 his cultivated plots. 
 
 In the sweltering sun it is not easy work, 
 and Ibrahim's dusky body is "larding the 
 lean earth" copiously. It glistens all over 
 as he bends to his task, singing a queer 
 little " chanty " on three notes. The pole 
 creaks, too, and near by a richer neighbour's 
 sakia (a water - wheel worked by cattle) 
 groans melodiously, with a sound like the 
 lowing of a herd of far - off cattle — a 
 sound very familiar to the traveller up the 
 Nile. 
 
 Ibrahim owns about three acres. He grows 
 maize, a strip of clover for his white donkey, 
 beans, and other vegetables. Some day he 
 hopes for enough land to grow cotton or 
 sugar-cane. All the year round he is pretty 
 hard at work. He has no time to get fat 
 like the Egyptians of property who live in 
 towns. But he does not mind work, and 
 he makes a fair living out of his two or 
 
54 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 three crops a - year. His father, Hassan, 
 would have thought Ibrahim's lot bliss. 
 HassaD came of a family which had a nice 
 little estate, but grinding taxation forced 
 him to borrow at ruinous interest, and at 
 last to abandon his land altogether, after 
 being beaten frequently because he could 
 not satisfy the tax-gatherer's demands. He 
 was reduced, therefore, to become a sub- 
 tenant of a more fortunate fellah, who lent 
 him seed and farming implements and in 
 return took three-quarters of poor Hassan's 
 produce. 
 
 Ibrahim's taxes are lighter, and he is in 
 no fear of the lash, for "the English are 
 here." Nor need he resort to esurient Greeks 
 when he is in need of money. He got his 
 small holding by means of a loan from a 
 great bank, and pays the interest along with 
 his taxes. He is subject to no forced labour 
 on irrigation canals, as Father Hassan was. 
 Only at certain seasons, when there is danger 
 of inundation from the rising Nile, must he 
 
THE FELLAH AT HOME. 55 
 
 take his turn at watching. In the days 
 "before the English came" it was a regular 
 practice to order the poor fellahin to carry 
 out their corvee as far as possible from their 
 homes. Those who could paid to be exempted ; 
 the rest had to obey. 
 
 Another grievance that old Hassan used 
 to speak of bitterly was the blackmail which 
 had to be paid to the irrigation engineers. 
 Unless they were bribed they would often 
 refuse to supply the indispensable water. 
 Often, too, they let the canals get into such 
 a bad state that cultivation languished. Now, 
 Ibrahim tells you, there is plenty of water 
 at every season of the year, and for all ; 
 and the English — odd people ! — do not allow 
 bribes. 
 
 Now the sun is sinking over the broad 
 shining river, flowing between narrow strips 
 of green on either bank, with the desert 
 beyond them. Ibrahim says his evening 
 prayer, spreading a piece of matting upon 
 which he kneels. He bows his head till it 
 
56 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 touches the ground, with reverent absorption 
 in the beautiful names of Allah, which he 
 repeats. Then he pulls on his loose cotton 
 drawers, gets into his blue gown, winds 
 his turban afresh, and sets off home to 
 supper. 
 
 The village through which Ibrahim passes 
 on his way home is typical of its kind. 
 Along the banks are moored a few feluccas, 
 whose tall masts pierce the sunset yellow. 
 Up and down the steep bank pass continu- 
 ally women drawing their black robes over 
 half their faces, and carrying on their heads 
 water -jars or tins. Among them is Fatma, 
 Ibrahim's one and only wife, a graceful figure 
 still, slim and supple, her rounded curves 
 showing plainly under her scanty clothing. 
 They do not greet one another save with 
 their eyes, and Ibrahim passes on to the 
 cafe to hear the 'gossip of the day. Outside 
 a tiny shop are set some chairs with a 
 hubble-bubble pipe in the centre, the mouth- 
 piece of which is passed from hand to hand, 
 
THE FELLAH AT HOME. 57 
 
 while an incessant chatter goes on over tiny 
 cups of thick coffee. Ibrahim can neither 
 write nor read, though his little boys are 
 learning to do both at an American mission 
 school, and to talk English as well. He 
 listens intently when someone reads from 
 an Arabic newspaper, and he is as eager as 
 anybody, when excited by glowing periods, 
 to proclaim a Holy War and drive the Eng- 
 lish out. 
 
 Here we are just at the point where the 
 bazaar runs out of the market-place. In 
 the unkempt square there are still a few 
 sellers of vegetables left, and an open - air 
 cook shop is sending up savoury smells 
 from strange messes. Close by soup is being 
 sold out of a tin, and a basket of golden 
 oranges rapidly empties. Next door to the 
 cafe is a shop which stocks all manner of 
 tin wares. A handsome Arab is bargaining 
 for a basin, squatting on the ground, ex- 
 amining it with the most careful scrutiny, 
 and being urged by the shopkeeper to " take 
 
58 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 it for nothing" if he does not like the 
 price. 
 
 Everywhere the invading West ! One old 
 shopkeeper is smoking a briar pipe. At the 
 cafe a sheikh is puffing at a cigarette through 
 a holder, and just in front of it two peasants 
 stop and compare their silver watches ! It 
 seems so out of keeping with the carpenters 
 shop, just such a one as Our Lord toiled 
 in, and the washerwoman's booth, where a 
 boy is working a huge iron of prehistoric 
 pattern with his foot. 
 
 But by this time Fatma will have the 
 evening meal ready, so Ibrahim turns home- 
 ward. He stops at a doorway in a mud 
 wall and enters a small, dusty, open - air 
 court, where three children greet him with 
 clambering affection. In this court are several 
 pots and pans, the white donkey, some skinny 
 fowls, and two mud pillars which serve as 
 store-cupboards for provisions. Off the court 
 open two rooms — one for sleeping in during 
 winter, the other for keeping the few spare 
 
THE FELLAH AT HOME. 59 
 
 clothes and household goods which the family 
 possess. Fatma has made the bread from 
 dhurra, a kind of maize flour, in a big stove, 
 and there lie a basketful of flat cakes. In 
 addition she has made a sort of bean stew 
 with butter and onions. Into this the family, 
 sitting on the ground, dip pieces of bread 
 which they eat with great relish, washing 
 them down with sour goat's-milk, and ending 
 up with lettuces, crisp and sweet, from their 
 own patch. 
 
 Soon after supper the strips of matting 
 are unrolled — in the court, if it be warm 
 enough ; if not, in the living - room. Any 
 one who is cold can sleep on top of the 
 stove. Little Ibrahim, little Hassan, and little 
 Amina say their good-nights. Their parents 
 talk a little in whispers. Then the candle 
 is put out, and they go contentedly to sleep. 
 
 And who has given thee reason for con- 
 tentment, Ibrahim? Who but the dogs 
 of English ? Soon thy son who learns in 
 the American school that two and two are 
 
60 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 four will tell thee that thy reckoning which 
 would make the answer "five" is wrong. 
 Then thou wilt heed Nationalist glowing 
 periods no longer. For how long under 
 Nationalist guidance would thy contentment 
 endure ? 
 
61 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 EGYPT "ON THE MAKE." 
 
 f This conservative people is a people of progress." 
 
 — The Khedive, Abbas II. 
 
 The New Spirit takes many shapes. It is 
 responsible alike for the excellent discipline 
 and dash which the Egyptian troops displayed 
 first at the battle of the Atbara, and for 
 the wild mouthings of the " Nationalists." It 
 stiffened the back of the fellah who told a 
 native official when he was threatened with 
 the courbash: "You dare not flog me now. 
 The English are here." It established the 
 Tewfikieh Society, consisting of young men 
 who bind themselves not to marry uneducated 
 women. It gave birth equally to the land 
 boom and to many another get - rich - quick 
 
62 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 scheme, some of which have benefited the 
 country, while others did no good to any- 
 body but the wily promoters, who got out 
 quickly and left their credulous dupes to 
 bear the inevitable loss. 
 
 I have spoken of the waste places in Cairo 
 which keep fresh the memory of the wild- 
 cat speculations in land. Many Egyptians 
 still speak ruefully of their plunges in those 
 much too hopeful days of 1906. Prices ad- 
 vanced from day to day with feverish leaps. 
 A small property in Cairo, bought some years 
 earlier for £2000, sold towards the end of 
 1905 for £8000. Very soon it was resold 
 for £16,000; then it found a ready purchaser 
 at £24,000 ; finally it was sold again for 
 £32,000. The Kaser - el - Ali Palace, close 
 to the British Agency, was offered in 1902 
 for £80,000. In 1906 it sold for £700,000. 
 The usual price of land in good quarters of 
 the city before the boom was one pound a 
 square yard. During the boom as much as 
 £24 a square yard was eagerly put down for 
 
EGYPT "ON THE MAKE. 63 
 
 lots in by no means the best parts. When 
 the "slump" came, there was wailing and 
 gnashing of teeth. Many were ruined. Large 
 numbers of others deplored heavy losses which 
 crippled them for years. 
 
 Even now land in the better districts of 
 Cairo is at a very high price. The native 
 population is increasing and growing more 
 prosperous. European settlers are more in 
 number than ever. And the swarm of tourists 
 continues to descend upon Egypt in vaster 
 proportions now that Americans and Germans 
 of the " tripper " class fill the land with their 
 penetrating twang and their guttural enthusi- 
 asms. There is plenty of room yet, therefore, 
 for wise investment in land and in other values. 
 Egypt specially needs manufactures, and would 
 welcome capital from any quarter to help on 
 her industrial development. At present, how- 
 ever, it is not into this channel that money 
 flows to any great extent. Enterprise is still 
 inclined to express itself in bricks and mortar. 
 
 The most striking manifestation of the New 
 
64 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Spirit in that direction is the Oasis -suburb 
 of Heliopolis. This venture illustrates vividly 
 the awakening of Cairo to the opportunities 
 of modern finance. Thirty, even twenty, 
 years ago such a scheme would have seemed 
 as unlikely in Egypt as we should consider 
 to - day a company to supply the Tuaregs 
 with type-writers, or the Bishareen Arabs with 
 Bond Street hats. It is a scheme which sur- 
 prises even those who are accustomed to the 
 big ideas of European and American specu- 
 lators. And it surprises them not alone by 
 its bold conception, by the difficulties which 
 had to be overcome before a town could be 
 built in the desert, by the large scale on 
 which a start has been made. It surprises 
 them also by reason of the admirable lines 
 on which it is being laid out, and by the 
 charm of its white buildings, designed with 
 a genuine feeling for the beauty of Arab 
 architecture. 
 
 Whether it will be a success or no is still 
 doubtful, though there are fewer voices de- 
 
65 
 
 crying it now than were heard a year or 
 two since. But no one who appreciates 
 either the advantages of town planning on 
 a dignified and harmonious basis, or the en- 
 deavour to square the search for profit with 
 the need of the human soul for beauty, can 
 wish Heliopolis anything but a fair future. 
 The world would be the poorer if it came 
 to grief. 
 
 About five miles from Cairo the site of 
 the ancient Heliopolis, the City of the Sun 
 had for centuries been only traceable by 
 patient archaeologists. It was called in ancient 
 times The Nile City of On. When it was 
 founded nobody knows. Strabo, the Koman 
 globe-trotter, visited it a few years before 
 the birth of Christ, and it was even then a 
 show -place in ruins. Two thousand three 
 hundred years before that it had been at the 
 height of its prosperity. It drives home to 
 one's sluggish mind the antiquity of Egypt to 
 recollect that, long before our era, it was a 
 land where travellers marvelled at the splen- 
 
 E 
 
66 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 did ruins of temples and palaces built thou- 
 sands of years before! Legend told how 
 Heliopolis was founded by a child of the 
 Sun. But we should do well, perhaps, to 
 follow the prudent Pliny, who inclined to the 
 opinion that it was originally a settlement of 
 Arabs. Upon our capacity for believing strange 
 stories will depend also our acceptance or re- 
 jection of the tradition that here the Holy 
 Family rested for a night under a tree on 
 their flight into Egypt ; and that in the 
 great Temple of the Sun, whose stones have 
 been hidden for centuries by the restless desert 
 sand, the Phoenix immolated itself upon a pyre 
 of frankincense and myrrh, and rose from the 
 ashes a new bird with its vitality lengthened 
 for another 1461 years. 
 
 What is certain is that Heliopolis was a big 
 city, and that the priests of the Sun had a 
 world-wide reputation for their occult know- 
 ledge. Possibly they were the philosophers 
 and healers whose learning astonished the 
 Greeks. Or they may have been merely 
 
EGYPT "ON THE MAKE. 67 
 
 tricksters. One of their " miracles " was, 
 according to report, an ingenious but dishonest 
 dodge. The common people marvelled greatly 
 at the Temple being filled with sunshine after 
 the sun had set. This was managed by an 
 arrangement of mirrors like Pepper's Ghost. 
 But are we any less credulous? A distin- 
 guished French author bases upon the fact 
 that no tombs have been found at Heliopolis 
 the theory that it was miraculously healthy. 
 The truth probably is that worshippers of the 
 sun burnt their dead. At the same time there 
 is no doubt about the invigorating character 
 of the desert air. The new town stands on 
 a plateau more than a hundred feet higher 
 than Cairo, and those who went there for the 
 Aviation Meeting know from experience that 
 it does not lack a breeze ! In Cairo itself one 
 often feels enervated, indolent. The sparkling 
 air which sweeps over the Arabian Desert 
 fills one with energy. There is good water, 
 drawn from wells sunk to a depth of 250 
 feet. There is to be an electric railway 
 
68 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 very soon, which will run out from Cairo in 
 ten minutes. 
 
 Gardens and boulevards have been planted. 
 There is already a baker's shop, an "inter- 
 national butchery" (as it calls itself), a dairy, 
 and two or three cafes. Now it only needs 
 a sufficient number of residents and winter 
 visitors to take advantage of all these aids 
 to healthy, peaceful living, away from the 
 smells and noises of the crowded city. 
 
 Already a number of the graceful white 
 houses built in the Arab style are inhabited. 
 For one of moderate size the rent works out 
 at about £70 a -year. There is a pleasant- 
 looking hotel open already. Another enor- 
 mous palace is being rapidly built, with rooms 
 for 400 guests. The Government, too, has 
 arranged with the company, of which the 
 guiding spirits are Baron Empain and Boghos 
 Nubar Pasha, for the erection of 400 houses 
 for people in State employment. At present, 
 it must be confessed, one has rather the im- 
 pression of living among dust - heaps. But 
 
EGYPT "ON THE MAKE. 69 
 
 this is natural during the construction period. 
 Even now the approach to the new town is 
 quite impressive. Its gleaming walls stand 
 out against the brown desert. Its domes and 
 minarets are silhouetted sharp in the deep 
 blue of daytime or the twilight horizon of 
 brilliant yellow. The buildings are of a light 
 and elegant design, airy and convenient, in- 
 stinct with that reserved charm which makes 
 Saracen architecture so attractive. 
 
 All around stretches the desert, broken only 
 by the Mokattam Hills, with the Citadel of 
 Cairo just visible on their furthest slopes. 
 The new Heliopolis has risen like the Phcenix 
 from the ashes of the old. It has sprung 
 from the barren sand, across which all the 
 building materials had to be carried. The 
 feat of creating it would be remarkable in 
 any land. In Egypt it is marvellous. It 
 just shows what the country, under the in- 
 fluence of the New Spirit, can do. 
 
70 
 
 CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 BRIDGES OF BLESSING. 
 
 " The Egyptian question is a question of irrigation." — Nubar Pasha. 
 
 The sun was blazing hot at nine in the morn- 
 ing as we trotted across the desert on our way 
 to the great Dam. Yet along the river -front 
 at Assouan a pleasant breeze was stirring the 
 graceful leafage and the big rattling seed-pods 
 of the lebbakh-trees. White sails were flashing 
 on the lake -like stretch of water, and the 
 palm - fringed island of Elephantine was look- 
 ing deliciously green and cool. 
 
 In the morning and evening hours Assouan is 
 at its best. In the heat of the day the hills 
 which cut the clear sky sharply all round, glow 
 like furnaces, and the pathetic flowers wilt in 
 the public garden along the river-side. It is 
 
BRIDGES OF BLESSING. 71 
 
 only by the most careful tending that they are 
 induced to hold up their heads at all. They 
 remind one of anaemic children kept alive by 
 constant nursing. In the cooler hours they 
 perk up. Towards evening, the long, high 
 ridges of golden sand across the Nile reflect 
 the sunset glory, and the tiny white dome on 
 the summit tempts one to climb. The dark- 
 enamelled rocks glisten refreshingly, scattered 
 about in the stream as if by some prehistoric 
 stirring of the river-god in sleep. The daha- 
 beahs moored along the bank of Elephantine 
 have each a tea-party on deck. Northward 
 the spits of sand gleam white in the gloaming, 
 and the earliest star is reflected in a quivering 
 silver line on the dark water. Then the moon 
 sails high, and the magic, mysterious beauty 
 of the scene keeps you on your balcony till 
 the gong sounds reproachfully, and you know 
 you will be late for table d'hote. 
 
 We thought of all this wistfully as we 
 bumped along in the hot sand Dam -wards. 
 The Dam is really Assouan's only sight. Im- 
 
72 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 portunate donkey -boys may persuade you to 
 visit an encampment of Bishareen Arabs, half- 
 naked models for sculptors, with curiously 
 plaited greasy hair, who deal in camels ; or 
 the ancient quarries whence the granite for 
 many famous temples was hewn. But the 
 excursion to the Dam and the Temple of 
 Philse, now partly under water, is the only 
 one of any account. People do not really go 
 to Assouan for antiquities or excursions. They 
 go for lawn-tennis and sand golf and dances. 
 The Winter Butterflies call it "a ripping 
 place." 
 
 Suddenly we turn out of a narrow valley 
 between scorching hills and come in sight of a 
 colony of shady, broad-brimmed bungalows in 
 an oasis of vivid green. At first it seems to be 
 a mirage, too good to be true. But it is real. 
 These are the houses of the men engaged upon 
 the Dam, and there it is itself — a solid bank of 
 masonry stretching across the river, a mile and 
 a quarter long. As we run over it, in a trolly 
 upon rails, we soon forget the heat. On one 
 
BRIDGES OF BLESSING. 73 
 
 side there is a vast expanse of shining water, 
 the reservoir which was needed to give the 
 cultivators irrigation all the year round. On 
 the other side there is a foaming cascade ; 
 some of the sluices are open to let the 
 ordinary flow of the river through. The 
 water hurls itself adown the cataract (which 
 it would be more correct to call the rapids), 
 and swirls about the rocks, disturbing the air 
 pleasantly and filling it with a cool, plashing 
 roar. 
 
 Here is the greatest benefit that British 
 enterprise has conferred upon Egypt yet. 
 Long ago, when the Egyptian question was 
 hotly discussed " in the Chancelleries of 
 Europe," Nubar Pasha said impatiently : " The 
 Egyptian question ? It is a question of irriga- 
 tion." Many Egyptians knew how true this 
 was, but could not give their country the 
 water she needed. This task was left to the 
 practical sense and determination of British 
 administrators, and it is worth remembering 
 that they were opposed at almost every step. 
 
74 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 In a land where it scarcely ever rains the 
 Government has to take the part which is 
 played in other countries by the weather. 
 Native Egyptian Governments had tried to fill 
 this rdle and failed. A scheme for raising the 
 level of water in the Delta was rejected in the 
 'seventies by the National Assembly, on the 
 ground that the richer proprietors who had 
 put up pumping-engines would be injured by 
 it : their pumps would be needed no longer ! 
 Even when the great Barrage was built fifteen 
 miles below Cairo, it was so ineptly planned 
 that the engineers never dared shut the sluices. 
 They were afraid the whole erection would be 
 swept away. Water therefore continued scarce. 
 In many districts it could only be obtained by 
 bribery. In others lazy officials let the canals 
 get out of order. Up-river cultivators merely 
 took one crop off the fertile mud left by the 
 yearly inundation. 
 
 When Britain decided to lend a hand in 
 Egypt, there was a very expensive pumping 
 scheme in contemplation. It would have 
 
BRIDGES OF BLESSING. 75 
 
 benefited the Delta, no doubt, but at far too 
 heavy a cost. Sir Colin Scott Moncrieff, who 
 was put in charge of irrigation, said, " Make 
 the Barrage workable." The Egyptians said, 
 " It can't be done. He said, " Rubbish." The 
 National Assembly refused consent. Lord 
 Cromer signalled : " Go ahead." Sir Colin 
 went ahead, and his success added so much 
 to the common wealth that the revenue was 
 increased, as a direct result, by £2,000,000 a- 
 year. No wonder the peasants called it "The 
 Bridge of Blessing." The value of their land 
 was doubled. They could raise upon it three 
 crops of cotton instead of one. Formerly the 
 canals were only filled once a-year — at the time 
 of the Nile flood. Now there was water enough 
 all the year round. 
 
 Since then this same system of perennial 
 irrigation has been carried nearly six hundred 
 miles above Cairo, as well as below it. There 
 is a Barrage at Assiout (built 1898-1902), there 
 is another at Esna (1907-09), and there is the 
 Dam at Assouan (1898-1902), which is now 
 
76 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 being made higher and stronger, so that the 
 storage of water may be greater still. Already 
 this magnificent feat of engineering is one of 
 the wonders of the world. Stand on the top 
 and look along its colossal granite back. Go 
 through its series of sixty-feet deep locks, each 
 230 feet long. Steam up the river and notice 
 that the level of water is raised for 130 miles. 
 All this is stored up from the flood-time, to be 
 used when the river begins to fall. Formerly 
 a huge volume of the fertilising inundation 
 flowed useless to the sea. Now it is made to 
 add to Egypt's wealth, and even when the Nile 
 is at its lowest the Government supplies the 
 fields with water to take the place of the rain 
 which scarcely ever falls. 
 
 When the Dam is finished in 1912 the water 
 will be kept back as far as 190 miles to the 
 southward, and nearly a million acres now 
 producing next to nothing will wave greenly 
 with cotton or grain. Do the Nationalists 
 remember how they opposed the building of 
 the Dam ? And one more equally pertinent 
 
BRIDGES OF BLESSING. 77 
 
 question — Have those who, like Pierre Loti, 
 talk about the " barbarity" of submerging 
 beautiful Philse, ever sat down and reckoned 
 up what these Bridges of Blessing have done 
 for the people of Egypt? I have made an 
 attempt to do so with the aid of numerous 
 State papers, and in my next chapter I shall 
 have the honour to present a Profit and Loss 
 Account. 
 
78 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 A PROFIT AND LOSS ACCOUNT. 
 
 "Praise the Lord for our sister, Water, for she is very fair and 
 serviceable to us, and humble and pleasant and clean." 
 
 — The Little Floiuers of St Francis. 
 
 M. Pierre Loti is a distinguished writer from 
 whose exquisite cameos we have often drawn 
 delight. Distinguished writers must be treated 
 respectfully even when they go wTong. The 
 greatest tribute of respect I can pay M. Loti 
 is to take him seriously. I will assume the 
 genuineness of his indignation against the 
 English for enriching the people of Egypt at 
 the cost of submerging the Temples of Philse. 
 I will treat as the argument of a sane man 
 M. Loti's contention in "La Mort de Philae," 
 that no benefit to Egypt can outweigh the 
 flooding of the island on which these beautiful 
 
A PROFIT AND LOSS ACCOUNT. 79 
 
 monuments stand. I will show briefly what 
 the benefits in question are, and I will leave 
 the Profit and Loss account to speak for 
 itself. 
 
 The most extensive irrigation scheme which 
 has been carried out by British enterprise is that 
 which affects a large part of Middle Egypt, 
 the northern half of Assiout Province, and 
 the provinces of Minia, Giza, and Beni-Suef. 
 Formerly this tract of country was under what 
 is called Basin Irrigation. A certain quantity 
 of water was caught during the annual Nile 
 flood and stored in basins for use during the 
 year. But this quantity was seldom sufficient 
 for the whole year, and, if the flood was a poor 
 one, cultivators had nothing like enough. Sir 
 William Garstin and Sir William Willcocks set 
 to work, therefore, to devise a scheme which 
 should give them, not merely a flood supply, 
 but perennial irrigation, and should insure them 
 against the danger of poor floods. To do this 
 it was necessary to raise the levels of the river 
 so that water might flow all the year round 
 
80 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 into the irrigation canals. And in order to 
 raise the levels it was necessary to construct 
 dams which would hold the water up until 
 it was wanted. Now let us see what these 
 dams — Assouan, Assiout, Esna — have helped 
 to do. 
 
 The area which was scheduled for conversion 
 from Basin to Perennial Irrigation included 
 404,470 feddans (a feddan is just about an 
 acre, so in future I will reckon in acres). As 
 soon as land is converted, its value goes up. 
 In 1903, the year after the Assouan Dam was 
 finished, the average rise in the rents of con- 
 verted holdings was £3 an acre. It has since 
 increased in many districts to between £5 and 
 £6. That is to say, land which formerly let 
 at £4 to £5 an acre now brings in £8 to £11. 
 Every year, as the process of conversion has 
 gone steadily on, the income of the country has 
 grown, and the public fortune been increased. 
 Land which used to sell for £60 to £70 an 
 acre now fetches £130 to £140. By means of 
 perennial irrigation, therefore, a huge extent 
 
A PROFIT AND LOSS ACCOUNT. 81 
 
 of country has been more than doubled in 
 value. 
 
 The result of this in money is surprising, 
 when one considers the comparatively small 
 outlay. An estimate made, not by an English- 
 man, but by Sirri Pasha, the native Inspector- 
 General of Irrigation, reckons the total addition 
 to the wealth of the country, brought about 
 by the Middle Egypt Conversion Scheme, at 
 £28,312,900. This magnificent result has been 
 achieved by an expenditure of little more than 
 four and a half millions. By spending that 
 amount British foresight has benefited Egypt 
 to the extent of six times the sum laid out. 
 Looking at it another way, the public income 
 has been increased, through the heightened 
 rental value of the converted land, by more 
 than two millions a-year. Thus the four and a 
 half millions invested produce an annual profit 
 of close on fifty per cent. This is the direct 
 profit. There are also indirect gains which 
 bring the total up to a still more astonishing 
 figure. The final addition to the value of 
 
82 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Egypt's land, due to the conversion works, 
 appears as £32,516,480; while the rise in the 
 annual rental value of the area affected stands 
 at £2,442,708. 
 
 For the moment the Government does not 
 directly draw much increased revenue from the 
 lands so vastly increased in value. They have 
 been content to put a light land tax on the 
 area affected. But in time this will be raised, 
 and already the railway and customs have been 
 largely increased. The State will draw a more 
 immediate profit from the heightening of the 
 Assouan Dam which is now in progress. This 
 work is necessary, chiefly for the reason that 
 the converted area of Middle Egypt takes far 
 more water than it did before, and does not 
 leave enough for the cotton-growers of Lower 
 Egypt. After 1912, when the extra seventeen 
 feet of height have been added, the quantity of 
 water stored up above Assouan until it is re- 
 quired will be two-and-a-half times as much as 
 at present. This extra water will be devoted 
 entirely to Lower Egypt, north of Cairo. Here 
 
A PROFIT AND LOSS ACCOUNT. 83 
 
 there are 950,000 acres lying waste, which with 
 irrigation will become good cotton-growing land. 
 The value of the crop to be obtained from them 
 is estimated at 3| to 4 millions sterling a-year. 
 Of these 950,000 acres 600,000 are Government 
 property, and will be worth £15 an acre, whereas 
 at present they are worth nothing. 
 
 Here is a clear gain of fourteen millions. In 
 addition, the crops on land already raising 
 cotton will be assured against scarcity of water. 
 Already much cotton has been saved. In 1903 
 the river was so low that, without the reserve 
 of water, there would not have been enough. 
 With the reserve the supply was ample. Even 
 in 1902, before the Assouan Dam was finished, 
 the Assiout Barrage, then just completed, saved 
 £600,000 by raising the level of water in a 
 time of exceptional lowness and allowing it 
 to enter the irrigation canals. Thus the cost 
 of the Assiout Barrage (£720,000) was almost 
 covered in the first year of its operation. And 
 again, in 1904, there was a severe dearth 
 of water which, without the quantity saved up 
 
84 
 
 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 in the Philse Keservoir, would have been dis- 
 astrous to the summer crops. 
 
 How the cotton crop of Middle Egypt has 
 been enlarged, mainly by the conversion of 
 basin land to perennial irrigation, may be seen 
 by the following table : — 
 
 Years. 
 
 Acres under cotton 
 
 1898 
 
 100,005 
 
 1899 
 
 90,887 
 
 1900 
 
 92,842 
 
 1901 
 
 105,750 
 
 1902 
 
 95,356 
 
 1903 
 
 153,000 
 
 1904 
 
 250,205 
 
 1908 
 
 313,956 
 
 The value of the increase effected in cotton 
 production is put at two and three-quarter 
 million pounds sterling a-year. 
 
 A couple more pieces of evidence and I will 
 cease to flourish figures before my readers' 
 eyes. On the Daira Sanieh estates in Middle 
 Egypt the rental value of about 130,000 
 acres was raised from £489,645 to £956,458 
 in four years from the completion of the Dam. 
 
A PROFIT AND LOSS ACCOUNT. 85 
 
 And the tenants pay their increased rents 
 so easily, that their arrears have dropped 
 from £13,000 a-year to almost nothing. They 
 are no longer at the mercy of the Nile. The 
 ancient river has been tamed to their service. 
 Even to the " flood irrigated" lands, which 
 depend entirely upon the yearly inundations 
 to soak and fertilise them, the Irrigation 
 Department has brought immense benefit. In 
 bad flood years there used to be huge areas 
 of such land left waterless, in which case the 
 cultivators were let off paying their land tax. 
 In 1877, before the English came on the 
 scene, there were 753,992 acres upon which 
 tax had to be remitted for this reason. In 
 1888, another year of poor flood, the number 
 dropped to 269,110. In 1899 it was only 
 188,922, and 1907 saw the figures down to 
 80,000. The gain to the State in taxation 
 is the least of the boon conferred in this 
 direction. It is the cultivators who have most 
 reason to be thankful. 
 
 Here then, in a hasty sketch, I have set 
 
86 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 forth the Profit account. To write against 
 it M. Loti advances what? The fact that 
 between November and June the Temples 
 of Philse will be covered by the water of 
 the Reservoir. Well, of course, this is to be 
 deplored. But, on the other hand, let us 
 remember that only a very few of the winter 
 tourists really appreciated their beauty, also 
 that their foundations are now far stronger 
 than they were before, and that any one 
 who wants to see them can do so between 
 July and October. The archaeologists refused 
 Sir William Garstin's proposal to move them 
 at a cost of £200,000 to an island well above 
 reservoir level. Now they should hold their 
 peace. Against the loss of the Temples as 
 a show-place for the Winter Butterflies set the 
 millions raised from a hungry hand-to-mouth 
 existence into a condition of comfort. You 
 cannot for a moment hesitate as to your 
 verdict. It will surely be that M. Loti has 
 no case. 
 
87 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 AN EASTERN OXFORD OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY. 
 
 " Europeans are in advance of us. Why ? Are they stronger or 
 more enduring ? No, it is because they are better taught. " — Arabi 
 Pasha in 1882. 
 
 In a small conical mud hut at Luxor, a grave 
 man in a turban was teaching school. It was 
 almost dark inside, or at any rate it seemed 
 so to us, peering in from the hot, white 
 sunshine. The little dark bodies swayed 
 earnestly as the lessons were chanted. The 
 little dark hands copied the master's spidery 
 Arabic on to their slates. They were learning 
 the alphabet, and discovering that two and 
 two made four. They had also begun to get 
 by heart passages from the Koran. Later 
 on they would have to learn it all, bit by 
 
88 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 bit. Then their education would be considered 
 complete. Unless, indeed, they showed special 
 promise and were sent to the famous Moslem 
 University in Cairo, the Gamia El Azhar. 
 There they would go through a course of 
 study which declines to recognise that there 
 has been any advance of knowledge since 
 the date of the Koran. They would learn 
 that the earth is flat, and rests on the 
 horns and back of a bull : it is surrounded 
 by mountains wherein dwell jinns or bad 
 spirits who war against good angels for the 
 mastery of mankind. This is called "re- 
 ligious science," after which law is studied 
 and the proper way to recite the Koran, 
 with the art of poetry perhaps as a final 
 embellishment. 
 
 El Azhar is a fascinating place to visit. 
 It is a kind of twelfth -century Oxford. When 
 you step over the raised threshold, having 
 put on big overshoes to enter the holy place, 
 you leave the Present Day behind. You see 
 first of all a very large open-air court full 
 
A TWELFTH CENTURY EASTERN OXFORD. 89 
 
 of squatting figures in turbans and flowing 
 robes. Some are reading, generally with the 
 swaying motion of the body. Some are 
 talking. Some are grouped round an alim 
 (professor) making notes of his discourse, at 
 the end of which they all respectfully kiss 
 his hand. Some are eating. Some are asleep. 
 The court is hot in the sunshine. You are 
 dazzled as you look up to the slender minarets 
 of which every graceful detail is sharp against 
 the morning blue. You are glad to walk 
 round under the colonnades, where classes 
 of children are sitting cross - legged on the 
 ground, their bright eyes wandering to us 
 strangers while they drone mechanically the 
 lesson of the day. And you are gladder still 
 to pass into another court, covered and cool 
 and equally full of students, among whom 
 you must pick your apologetic way, treading 
 gingerly between the groups. 
 
 The sweeper who is tidying up is not so 
 careful. He prods a slumberer with his foot. 
 He walks over a class without a word of 
 
90 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 apology either to them or to their teacher, 
 sitting cross-legged in a low wide chair and 
 wearing the green turban which shows he 
 has made his pilgrimage to Mecca within the 
 year. There is a hum of talk everywhere. 
 There is a constant passing to and fro. " How 
 difficult," you say, " it would be to think here." 
 But that is of no moment to the El Azhar 
 students. They are not being taught to think. 
 There are ten thousand students at El 
 Azhar, more than at Oxford and Cambridge 
 put together. Eich and poor mingle to- 
 gether. The only division is into nationalities 
 and provinces. Each group of students has 
 its own dormitories, the plainest possible 
 apartments, airy and sparsely furnished after 
 the pleasant manner of the East. No fees 
 need be paid. There are endowments enough 
 for all. When a student has mastered the 
 Koran, the teacher writes his name in a copy 
 of it and that gives him authority to lecture 
 on it. So with the other books studied. 
 That is how the "men" get their degrees. 
 
A TWELFTH CENTURY EASTERN OXFORD. 91 
 
 There is much that is admirable about this 
 ancient university, whose records go back to 
 the century before William the Conqueror 
 crossed the English Channel. Rich and poor 
 mingle in its courts. Few faithful Moslems 
 fail to mention it in their wills, so it has ample 
 funds for the needy. The life is very simple. 
 The sight of " undergraduates " mending their 
 clothes in public is quite common. Their 
 usual meal consists of a bowl of lentil soup 
 with a cake of maize bread, a little garlic, or 
 a handful of dates. It is, indeed, what Oxford 
 once was — a place of scholarship. All the ten 
 thousand students have a desire to learn. 
 That is the only reason of their being there, 
 unless it is true that they go there, as many 
 say, in order to escape military service, from 
 which all teachers are excused. But naturally 
 the New Spirit is a little impatient of El 
 Azhar. The Europeanised Egyptian is openly 
 derisive, but then he has generally lost his 
 faith in Islam altogether. Even the faith- 
 ful are beginning to see that Arabi was right. 
 
92 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 "Why are Europeans in advance of us? Be- 
 cause they are better taught." Why are the 
 Syrians, he might have asked equally, so 
 successful in Egypt ? Because in Syria there 
 are go-ahead American schools. There has 
 sprung up in Egypt, therefore, a real demand 
 for education. It pervades all classes, from 
 the Europeanised effendim in Cairo who 
 severely criticise the absence of a real uni- 
 versity in the capital, to the donkey-boys at 
 small places on the Nile, who wistfully ask if 
 the tourist can give them " Inglees book." 
 
 What is called the Egyptian University is 
 only a Universite Populaire after the French 
 fashion, a centre for delivering lectures. It 
 confers no degrees. It has no body of students. 
 All the same it is a praiseworthy effort, and 
 may have in it the seeds of a real university 
 in the future. There is an inclination to sneer 
 at it. The building it inhabits, a former 
 cigarette factory, garish in colour and design, 
 with the name of the cigarette company still 
 in mosaic on the pavement at the entrance, 
 
A TWELFTH CENTURY EASTERN OXFORD. 93 
 
 provokes ridicule. Its large aims are con- 
 trasted scornfully with its small funds. But 
 it is easy to sneer. It would be wiser to 
 give the founders credit for their enthusiasm, 
 and to help them to administer it on sound 
 lines. 
 
 A very interesting contrast, by the way, 
 to El Azhar is to be seen in the Government 
 colleges for sheikhs (that is, Arabs of good 
 family) who seek to be trained as cadis (judges 
 of the Mohammedan religious castes) and 
 teachers. Here are large, light, open, well- 
 equipped class-rooms, with currents of fresh 
 air blowing through them. The students have 
 the newest of desks. The blackboard is in 
 constant use, the appeal to the eye usefully 
 supplementing the lessons addressed to the 
 ear. There is a capital laboratory where 
 simple chemistry is taught. Some of the 
 grave young Arabs in their dignified robes 
 were working here on the morning I was taken 
 round. Some were at a writing lesson : to 
 write Arabic correctly is quite an accomplish- 
 
94 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 ment. Some were drawing from still life. 
 Some were learning " cosmography," or the 
 use of the globes as it used to be called 
 in young ladies' " finishing schools." In the 
 library several were deep in Arabic tomes. 
 Later, I saw them in the dining-hall, learning 
 to eat decently and in order. The whole place 
 left on my mind an impression of studious calm 
 and of a well-ordered intelligent scheme. It 
 is not picturesque as El Azhar, but it is in- 
 finitely more competent. 
 
 The present-day agitation in favour of edu- 
 cating all classes is a striking change from 
 the attitude of the Egyptians towards edu- 
 cation, when Mehemet Ali some eighty years 
 ago tried to impose it upon them. This able 
 ruler only learnt to read himself at the age 
 of forty -five. He resolved that every one 
 must do likewise. He established schools. 
 Parents declined to send their children to 
 them. He did all he could both to force 
 and to persuade them. Small boys were 
 taken to their classes in chains. Others were 
 
A TWELFTH CENTURY EASTERN OXFORD. 95 
 
 paid to go. But he could not arouse any 
 enthusiasm. He died. His schools were 
 abandoned. Contented ignorance reigned as 
 before. It continued to reign until recent 
 years. Then it gave way to a desire for 
 education as a means of getting on. 
 
 It is not in the Egyptian character to desire 
 knowledge for its own sake. Of course there 
 are exceptions to whom this does not apply. 
 There are a certain number of patriotic 
 Egyptians who honestly feel that it is due to 
 their country's position to improve education. 
 They applaud the desire of the Government 
 to establish elementary vernacular and indus- 
 trial schools throughout the country. They 
 also understand the difficulties in the way, 
 two of which are the difficulty of getting com- 
 petent teachers in Arabic, and lack of money. 
 When it was proposed to the General Assem- 
 bly that a temporary land-tax should be 
 imposed for the expenses of kuttabs (element- 
 tary schools), no one supported the proposer. 
 His plea was rejected offhand. There are 
 
96 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 many Moslems who say with Arabi, " Let 
 us be educated, and the boasted superiority 
 of the Christians will disappear." But they 
 do not want to pay for this advantage, 
 it would seem. 
 
 Speaking generally, one may say that 
 the demand for education springs from the 
 belief that it is a help towards making a 
 better living. The well-to-do Egyptian, 
 loving routine and fearing responsibility, looks 
 upon work in a Government office, at a fixed 
 salary and with automatic functions, as an 
 ideal occupation. The peasant feels that his 
 sons will earn more money by running behind 
 tourists' donkeys, or giving them inaccurate 
 information about monuments, than they could 
 if they remained peasants. Hence arises the 
 desire for teaching that will enable boys to pass 
 examinations, and especially for instruction in 
 English, which will make them useful both to 
 the pleasure pilgrim and to the British official. 
 
 In this purely mercenary view of the advan- 
 tages of education may be found one cause of 
 
A TWELFTH CENTURY EASTERN OXFORD. 97 
 
 the general dissatisfaction with the school sys- 
 tem of Egypt. The Egyptian has no grasp of 
 the real meaning of culture. He cannot reason, 
 nor does he wish to reason. The improve- 
 ment of the mind for its own sake is an idea 
 foreign to him. For ages past he has merely 
 been taught, if he was taught at all, to learn 
 by heart. This he does quickly. But he has 
 no intellectual curiosity. In few cases do 
 young men who have gone through the Gov- 
 ernment course of education continue the pro- 
 cess in after life. Their examinations passed, 
 they consider that they have done with learn- 
 ing. It has served its purpose. They need 
 trouble themselves with it no more. 
 
 G 
 
98 
 
 CHAPTEE XL 
 
 THE LOGIC OF FACTS. 
 
 " . . . To fit the recipient [of education] to become a more efficient 
 member of the society into which he has been born, not to qualify 
 him for fresh spheres." — Mr Currie, Director of Education in the 
 Soudan. 
 
 It was a hot morning and Luxor fairly 
 quivered. Yet in the garden there were 
 shade and beauty, and the most agreeable 
 blend of perfumes — roses, mimosa, mignon- 
 ette. Also there were a long straw and a 
 long tumbler with the cool clink of ice in 
 it, while the hawks were crooning restfully 
 their musical trill. I was sorely tempted 
 to sit there. But on the other hand I had 
 arranged to see the American Mission School. 
 So I pulled myself together, scrambled on 
 to a donkey, and jogged off through the 
 
THE LOGIC OF FACTS. 99 
 
 narrow village streets. Past the squatting 
 silversmith plying dexterous ringers over fila- 
 gree work. Through endless small flocks of 
 black, woolly sheep. Past the big tourist 
 boat, where nine Arabs in scarlet jerseys 
 are moving in perfect unison with linked 
 arms as they polish the deck with their 
 feet to a queer little Eastern "chanty." 
 Past the tent hospital, where rows of black 
 babies are waiting to be treated for eye- 
 disease, the scourge of Egypt, at Sir Ernest 
 Cassel's expense. And so to the solid brick 
 building with the Stars and Stripes fly- 
 ing from its roof — the American Mission 
 School. 
 
 It makes an Englishman feel rather ashamed 
 that for fifty years the Americans have been 
 covering Egypt with schools, while we, as 
 individuals, have done next to nothing of 
 the kind. There are 18,000 pupils in these 
 schools, and 453 natives have been trained 
 to teach in them. Of course they are 
 Christian schools, but Moslems send their 
 
100 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 children as well, for no direct proselytising 
 is allowed. Yet, equally, of course, the spirit 
 of all the teaching is Christian, and to this 
 few of the Moslem parents seem to object. 
 Miss Buchanan, the able and devoted head of 
 the Luxor college for girls, told me of a high 
 local official who always sent his daughter 
 to Sunday - school ; and I heard from Dr 
 Giffen, who was formerly at Tantah, of a 
 bey who begged to be allowed to place his 
 two sons as boarders, because he wanted 
 them "not to be left to the care of ser- 
 vants," as he and his brothers had been. 
 But at the same time it is certain that any 
 attempt to do in Government schools what 
 is done by the American Mission would 
 provoke a crisis. 
 
 Even if that were not certain, it would 
 be foolish to pretend that the American 
 methods appeal in their sum and substance 
 to the British mind. For example, I had a 
 quarrel, a most friendly and pleasant quarrel, 
 with Professor M'Clenahan of the Assiout 
 
THE LOGIC OF FACTS. 101 
 
 College over the college song. Here is the 
 first stanza of it with the chorus : — 
 
 " Assiout College now is standing, 
 
 No dead relic of the past ; 
 But a tower still demanding 
 
 Truth and justice first and last. 
 As the desert outposts guard her 
 
 From a grave 'neath drifting sand, 
 She's to Egypt's sons a mother, 
 
 Sheltering by her outstretched hand. 
 
 Chorus — 
 
 Tell to all her queenly dower, 
 Love and truth which never die ; 
 
 Ring her praises from the tower, 
 O'er the land and to the sky." 
 
 Now this may seem a small matter, but 
 it really has a greater importance than at 
 first appears. If education cannot teach the 
 native students of advanced classes to dis- 
 tinguish between decent verse and such 
 dreadful doggerel as this, what good can it 
 do ? Is it worth teaching Egyptian young 
 men English, if they are allowed to regard 
 this "song" with feelings of anything but 
 
102 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 amused contempt? It is bad enough to 
 teach boys to write execrable Latin verse. 
 But that is, at any rate, a mental exercise 
 of some value, and it does not debase their 
 taste. Unfortunately, the song of the Syrian 
 Protestant College, also established by the 
 Americans, and carried on with excellent 
 results in many directions for fifty years, 
 is of the same order. 
 
 " Far, far above the waters 
 
 Of the deep blue sea, 
 Lies the campus of the College 
 
 Where we love to be. 
 Far away behold Kenisi, 
 
 Far beyond Sannin, 
 Rising hoary to the heavens, 
 
 Clad in glorious sheen. 
 
 Chorus — 
 
 Look before us ! 
 Shout the chorus ! 
 
 See the banner wave. 
 S.P.C. to thee all glory, 
 
 Make us true and brave." 
 
 A " literary education " which does not edu- 
 cate above the lowest level of the feeblest 
 
THE LOGIC OF FACTS. 103 
 
 "Poets' Corner" in the most obscure news- 
 paper, seems to me, in spite of my respect 
 and admiration for the American missionaries' 
 work, a pathetic example of energy misplaced. 
 
 On the other hand, in numerous other 
 ways they do exceedingly well. I saw at 
 Luxor tiny girls being taught geography 
 with sand, — making mountains and islands 
 and promontories, thoroughly enjoying them- 
 selves, and quickly picking up ideas. I saw 
 elder girls learning to take a more extended 
 interest in foreign countries by means of 
 sheets of pictures of great events, great men, 
 great cities, and so on. There is a genuine 
 demand for the instruction of girls. Many 
 young men will not have uneducated wives. 
 In this direction the Americans are satis- 
 fying a want. Then a large proportion of 
 the boys who speak English say they learnt 
 it at the American schools. I am sure the 
 latter train many of their pupils to be truth- 
 ful and to regard promises as binding, and 
 to aim at a higher standard of life, in addi- 
 
104 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 tion to imparting knowledge. Yet such 
 
 education as they give can never solve the 
 
 problem upon which the future of Egypt 
 
 largely depends. It is not only that many 
 
 of their teachers are inclined to look upon 
 
 education almost as a fetish. It is not only 
 
 that they teach many children English who 
 
 would be better without it (here, they say, 
 
 they are obliged to give way to the parents' 
 
 wishes). The real reason which must make 
 
 their work always more or less an exotic is 
 
 their prejudice against the religion of the soil. 
 
 Here we come to the heart of the matter. It 
 
 is easy to say, "We must teach these poor 
 
 Orientals the superior religion of the West." 
 
 It is possible to point to individual cases in 
 
 which this has been done with encouraging 
 
 effect. But we shall certainly never do any 
 
 good in Egypt or any other Eastern country 
 
 by means of Western methods (which in any 
 
 cases do not give such marvellous results even 
 
 in Europe and the United States ! ). Almost all 
 
 our troubles in India arise from the mistake 
 
 made by Macaulay when he decided in favour 
 
THE LOGIC OF FACTS. 105 
 
 of Western as against Oriental culture. To 
 some extent we have made the same mistake 
 in Egypt, and already we are reaping a harvest 
 of hatred and discontent. This result follows 
 from two causes. One is, that Westernisation 
 cuts away the ground on which the Oriental 
 has been accustomed to stand, yet fails to give 
 him any sure foothold in its place. The spring 
 of modern Western education tends to make 
 those who drink at it critical and unsettled 
 in their minds. Consequently the increased 
 material prosperity of Egypt, the order and 
 security which Britain has introduced, have 
 merely set the majority of partly "educated" 
 minds free to abuse and vilify us. The New 
 Spirit is in many quarters the spirit of 
 Jeshurun, who " waxed fat and kicked." 
 
 Even so, it might have little influence but 
 for the second of the two reasons I mentioned. 
 This is the readiness of the Moslem masses to 
 be stirred by appeals to their traditional anti- 
 Christian distrust. An ideal system of educa- 
 tion would have these results : it would make 
 no sudden, unsettling change in the Egyptian's 
 
106 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 view of life, yet it would quicken his intelli- 
 gence, and, in Mr Currie's wise words, "fit 
 him to become a more efficient member or the 
 society into which he was born," at the same 
 time weakening the intolerant element in his 
 nature by " letting in fresh light and air from 
 the outside world." To * counteract the unpro- 
 gressiveness of Islam, and to make the native 
 mind familiar with the world as it is, without 
 making any direct assault upon the Moslem 
 faith — that is the problem to be solved. The 
 American and other missions say that nothing 
 but Christian morality will serve. Yet from 
 the precepts of the Koran children can be 
 taught the value of honesty, truthfulness, 
 kindness to animals as well as men, courtesy, 
 sympathy, patience, perseverance, thrift, purity, 
 cleanliness, love of parents and country, and 
 other virtues. Insistence upon these precepts 
 would have quite as good an effect as the 
 inculcation of Western morals. 
 
 A criticism upon the Egyptian system of edu- 
 cation which I heard from several well-qualified 
 observers was this : " It is not simple enough." 
 
THE LOGIC OF FACTS. 107 
 
 As to this, it would be presumptuous in me to 
 attempt to judge. Mr Douglas Dunlop, who is 
 in charge of the Education Department, has by 
 common agreement administered his trust with 
 statesmanlike ability. But of course he works 
 within limits. He cannot do exactly as he 
 would. The complaints made are all on the 
 score of his attempting to do too much. Very 
 likely this is not a matter completely within 
 his control. It has been pointed out that a 
 more limited field of attack would yield better 
 results. It certainly seems rather ambitious, 
 even for fourth - year students in secondary 
 schools, to attempt to gain in three hours a- 
 week a " general knowledge of French litera- 
 ture," and an acquaintance with the works of 
 the principal authors in Greek, Latin, English, 
 German, Italian, and Spanish ! Also it strikes 
 one as curious to select 'The Master of 
 Ballantrae' for young Egyptians to read in 
 their course of studies, seeing that its con- 
 versations are chiefly in Scottish dialect, and 
 that a knowledge of Scottish history is re- 
 quired before the story can be understood. 
 
108 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Many are of opinion, too, that the History 
 programme covers too wide an area to be use- 
 ful. Here is the fourth-year syllabus : — 
 
 I. — An Outline of Roman History, with Special 
 Reference to Government and Institutions. 
 
 A. Foundations of Rome and early history. 
 
 B. The Republic. 
 
 i. Early organisation. The struggle between the 
 Plebeians and Patricians. Later form of Re- 
 publican institutions. The Magistrates and 
 the Assemblies. 
 ii. External expansion, (a) The Conquest of Italy. 
 (b) Carthage, (c) The East. Social and 
 political changes arising from the conquests. 
 
 C. Last days of the Republic. The Great Generals. 
 
 D. Development of the Empire : The Triumvirates. The 
 
 Early Caesars. Organisation of the Provinces. 
 
 E. Later History of the Empire : The Barbarian invasions. 
 
 Division of the Empire. Constantine. The age of 
 Justinian. Codes of Law. 
 
 F. Influence of Roman institutions and law on other nations. 
 
 II. — Elements of Political Science and 
 Constitutional History. 
 A. The State. 
 
 i. Ancient and modern ideas of the State. 
 ii. Forms of Government : Monarchy ; Aristocracy ; 
 
 Democracy, 
 iii. Functions of Government: Executive; Judicial; 
 Legislative. 
 
THE LOGIC OF FACTS. 109 
 
 B. Constitutional History. 
 
 i. Feudalism in England, France, and Germany, 
 ii. Growth of the English Constitution. 
 
 Magna Charta. Origin of Parliament. 
 Growth of the power of the Monarchy under 
 
 the Tudors. 
 Conflict of Charles I. and Parliament. The 
 Commonwealth. The Revolution of 1688. 
 Development of Parliamentary institutions 
 in the 18 th century, 
 iii. Development of the royal power in France. 
 
 The early Kings and the Nobles. Influence 
 of Roman ideas. Origin of the Parliament 
 and States - General. Charles VII. and 
 Louis XI. Growth of the royal power 
 from Francis I. to Louis XIV. Limita- 
 tions on the royal power in the 17th and 
 18th centuries, 
 iv. The French Revolution. Its causes and consti- 
 tutional results in France to the present time, 
 v. The spread of the principles of Constitutional 
 
 Government, 
 vi. Brief outline of the Constitutions of England, 
 France, Germany, Russia, Turkey, and the 
 United States. 
 
 It is a quite admirable programme — for such 
 as are capable of assimilating it without 
 mental dyspepsia. In fact, it would form an 
 excellent university course, and it supplies 
 a valid answer to those Egyptians who com- 
 plain that, because there is a regular Univer- 
 sity in the country, education is neglected 
 
110 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 under British rule. In the various schools, 
 secondary and special (such as Law, Medicine, 
 Engineering, and Agriculture), the work of 
 a university is being actually carried on. 
 But the query suggested by those who best 
 know the young Egyptian is : Can he acquire 
 more than a smattering of the general culture 
 which it is sought in the secondary schools 
 to bestow upon him ? Are we not assuming 
 a groundwork of intelligence and morality 
 which does not exist? Are we not pouring 
 the new and heady wine of modern ideas 
 into vessels unfit to hold it? 
 
 One effect it certainly does have. In spite 
 of the noble teaching which is given on the 
 lines of the lofty morality of the Koran, and 
 with the view of " habituating the pupils from 
 their earliest years to the performance of their 
 religious duties and the acquirement of relig- 
 ious virtues " (' Syllabus of the Primary Course 
 of Study/ 1907), — in spite of this it appears 
 to weaken faith. Macaulay himself admitted 
 that " no Hindu who has received an English 
 
THE LOGIC OF FACTS. Ill 
 
 education ever remains sincerely attached to 
 his religion," and the same applies equally, 
 I believe, to Mohammedans. This being so, 
 many find it strange that education should 
 apparently have no effect in reducing fanati- 
 cism. " We are hated, not because we have 
 'imposed a foreign yoke/ but because we are 
 Christians." That is what one is constantly 
 told. But I would humbly submit that this 
 is not quite the conclusion of the whole matter. 
 The masses, no doubt, are induced to be anti- 
 English by the cry of "Islam in danger." 
 But that, in the mouths of the agitators, is 
 a dishonest cry. They do not care about 
 Islam. They are swayed partly by hunger 
 for the spoils of office, partly by genuine 
 Nationalist sentimentality. The masses would 
 not hate us at all if they were not inflamed 
 continually against us on religious grounds 
 by those who are using religion as a political 
 force. 
 
 An education which taught true values and 
 the logic of facts, without disturbing the 
 
112 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 simple philosophy of life which serves the 
 Oriental far better than our "sick hurry and 
 divided aims " serve us — this would soon work 
 improvement. Such an education would be 
 largely technical, and only to a limited extent 
 literary. It would aim not at "qualifying 
 the young Egyptian for fresh spheres," but 
 at making him a more competent tiller of the 
 soil, a handicraftsman, a master of machines. 
 It would, at any rate, have better results 
 than teaching young Egypt just enough to 
 enable them to read the newspapers, and to 
 believe any rubbish that the most violent 
 may print. 
 
113 
 
 CHAPTEK XII. 
 
 THE NEWSPAPER HABIT. 
 
 " To administer capital punishment upon the murderer [of the 
 Prime Minister] and allow these dangerous journals to continue their 
 infamous work will be to scotch the head of the snake and not to 
 kill it." — Letter from an Egyptian in the 'Egyptian Gazette? 
 
 No city has a more active cafe life than Cairo. 
 Even in the morning the little iron tables 
 on the pavement are thronged. Whenever 
 you pass a cafe there are numbers of tar- 
 bushes to be seen both outside and inside. A 
 few people may be playing dice or dominoes. 
 But the mass are reading newspapers and 
 talking politics. They learnt this habit as 
 well as the cafe habit from France. French 
 influence upon the Egyptians used to be very 
 strong. These are some of the traces it has 
 left behind. The Egyptian Nationalist news- 
 
 H 
 
114 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 papers have borrowed their methods of furious 
 invective from such journals as Llntran- 
 sigeant and La Patrie. Young Egypt has 
 caught from Paris the carping, disaffected 
 attitude towards all Governments which marks 
 the boulevard cafe politician. 
 
 There is no more striking manifestation 
 of the New Spirit than the rapid growth 
 of the Arabic daily Press. In the afternoons 
 the various native newspapers as they appear 
 are bought up rapidly; the barefooted news- 
 paper boys in their blue or white robes and 
 grubby turbans do a bustling trade. The 
 newspaper habit has taken a firm hold, and 
 there can be no doubt that it does — some good, 
 very likely, but also a great deal of harm. 
 For, naturally, seeing that the Egyptian has not 
 yet developed a very high degree of political 
 intelligence, it is the most violent articles 
 which have the greatest effect upon him. 
 
 He is not able yet to distinguish between 
 false and true. He is, like all those who are 
 in the intermediate stage of education and 
 
THE NEWSPAPER HABIT. 115 
 
 intellectual development, a victim to the 
 tyranny of the printed word. The Oriental 
 mind, being left undeveloped by Oriental 
 methods of instruction, which aim at exercising 
 memory rather than at strengthening reason, 
 is naturally inclined to be credulous. It is 
 also naturally given to accepting without 
 question any show of authority." Tell an 
 Oriental of average intelligence that a certain 
 thing is so, and he will believe you. The wild- 
 est rumours are listened to and repeated as 
 facts in the bazaars of all Eastern cities, if only 
 they are stated with sufficient certainty. 
 
 What the newspapers assert, therefore, is 
 immediately believed, if only they assert it 
 with due emphasis. Argument is useless. 
 Rhetoric carries all before it. The Nationalist 
 writers do not attempt to argue. Ahmed 
 Loutfi, one of the cleverest of them, replied 
 to Mr Roosevelt's Cairo address on Egyptian 
 unreadiness for self-government, not by citing 
 proofs to the contrary, but by holding up 
 the ex -President to ridicule in wild and 
 
116 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 whirling periods for daring to come from 
 America " to talk about liberty and independ- 
 ence to the Egyptians, who have known how 
 to govern themselves ever since the days of 
 the Pharaohs." Sheer nonsense, of course, but 
 rewarded by deafening applause. The tyranny 
 of the specious phrase ! 
 
 A French writer in the Progres of Cairo has 
 spoken of the Egyptians as " the most insipid 
 and the emptiest chatterboxes in the world." 
 "What they love," he said, "is talking with- 
 out saying anything." " One must listen for a 
 whole day before one discovers even the symp- 
 tom of an idea in an Egyptian politician." 
 That is putting the case too strongly. M. 
 Lucien van Costen wrote in a fit of pardonable 
 exasperation. But there is a solid ground-basis 
 of truth underneath his exaggerated complaint. 
 Violent rhetoric has a deplorable effect upon 
 the Egyptian, whose emotions are easily played 
 upon, and who accepts as gospel anything that 
 is put before him with oratorical trimmings. 
 The dangerous spread of Nationalist (that is, 
 
THE NEWSPAPER HABIT. 117 
 
 anti-British and anti-Christian) doctrines during 
 the last year or two is entirely due to the 
 furious ravings of Al Lewa (pronounce "Looer") 
 and its less rampant but still seditiously ener- 
 getic contemporaries, Al Ahram, Al Gerida, 
 and Al Moayad. 
 
 As newspapers these organs of agitation are 
 of no account. By far the best Arabic news- 
 paper in Egypt, and, indeed, in the world, is 
 Al Mokattam. Founded just twenty-one years 
 ago by a group of clever Syrians, including Dr 
 Nimr, one of Lord Cromer's most trusted friends 
 and advisers, it has won a position of influence 
 and authority all over the Eastern world. It 
 has well-informed correspondents everywhere, 
 and frequently receives important news before 
 it reaches official circles. It is read all over 
 North Africa, in Arabia, in Turkey, in India, 
 in Persia ; by Eastern communities in Europe, 
 in South Africa, in Australia, in the United 
 States. Being Christian and pro-British, it is 
 not liked by the Moslems. But they read it 
 for its valuable news-service and articles. The 
 
118 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Watan and the Misr, Coptic newspapers, also 
 favour the British occupation, and so, more or 
 less, does the European press in Egypt. Since 
 the entente cordiale the French journals, which 
 used to denounce us daily, have entirely altered 
 their tone. Now they point out to Egypt how 
 incapable she would be of carrying on compe- 
 tently if the British were to withdraw ! 
 
 The Egyptian Gazette, the only English 
 journal of any account, devotes itself with 
 able industry to nailing lies to the counter as 
 fast as they are uttered. It is always mod- 
 erate and reasonable. But these European 
 papers have no weight with the natives. It 
 is really to the Lewa principally that young 
 Egypt has been accustomed to look for guid- 
 ance, and here is the sort of guidance it got : — 
 
 This land is polluted by the English, putrefied 
 with their atrocities. They tied our tongues, burned 
 our people alive, hanged our innocent relatives, and 
 perpetrated other horrors sufficient to make Heaven 
 tremble, the earth to split, and the mountains to fall 
 down. 
 
THE NEWSPAPER HABIT. 119 
 
 The Lewa has now ceased to be the official 
 Nationalist organ, but it used to rave in this 
 fashion every day. No bombast was too absurd 
 for it, no slander too scandalous, no exag- 
 geration too grotesque. It pretended, on the 
 strength of letters signed by a few nobodies, 
 or a telegram despatched by a single inhabi- 
 tant of a town, to speak in the name of the 
 whole land. In any European country save 
 Kussia it would have been laughed at. But 
 young Egypt, unsettled by the critical cul- 
 ture of the West and intoxicated by the silly 
 Nationalism of which sentimentalists prate so 
 noisily to-day, believed its diatribes to be the 
 height of patriotic eloquence. Its disciples are 
 "just enough educated to read the newspapers 
 and to believe any rubbish that the most 
 violent may print." 
 
 After the murder of the Prime Minister the 
 Lewa, which had done so much to instigate 
 deeds of violence, took a hypocritical tone, and 
 denied its part in the crime. But the students 
 
120 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 nourished on its doctrines were not so care- 
 ful. At the Khedivial School of Agricul- 
 ture one wrote on the blackboard, with the 
 general approval of the Moslems, " The traitor 
 is dead ! May the assassin flourish." At the 
 School of Law the Moslem students threatened 
 that if the Coptic Christian students wore black 
 ties for their co-religionist they would flaunt 
 red ones. At the Medical School the Copts 
 were told that any funeral wreaths they brought 
 would be destroyed. At the Engineering School 
 some young blackguard conceived the idea of 
 sending a telegram to the Prime Minister's 
 family exulting in the crime. But, happily, 
 though it met with much applause, this fiendish 
 trick was not played. None of the Moslem 
 students at these schools joined in the funeral 
 procession of the man whom Lord Cromer 
 described as " the most capable of living 
 Egyptian Ministers." At the Tewfikieh School, 
 however, Moslems joined with Copts, "thanks 
 to the excellent discipline of the principal." 
 
THE NEWSPAPER HABIT. 121 
 
 Discipline ! That is what young Egypt badly 
 needs. 
 
 Probably, as I have suggested in a previous 
 chapter, the Nationalist leaders are few of them 
 so fanatical or such firebrands as they seem. 
 When one of them at Tantah last year spoke 
 of the British as the "red-faced and black- 
 hearted people who killed all joy in the land," 
 and declared that " a patriot would prefer to 
 see his country covered with corpses rather 
 than full of slaves," he was, I expect, merely 
 practising his rhetoric. But, while the leaders 
 take care not to act upon their own sugges- 
 tions, there are plenty of followers who yearn 
 for the " deeds " of which the Lewa was always 
 talking. Unless the Government keeps a strong 
 line Egypt will be bathed in blood again. " The 
 Arabist movement," wrote Lord Milner in his 
 * England in Egypt/ "passed with frightful 
 rapidity from a protest against the abuses of 
 European influence to an attack upon that 
 influence in every form." It is certain that, 
 
122 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 unless it had been checked, the present skil- 
 fully worked -up movement would have already 
 undergone the same transition. 
 
 It is no use thinking that, as in Western 
 countries, violent language may serve as a 
 safety-valve. The East does not understand 
 the safety-valve principle. It is no use warn- 
 ing young Egypt that if we have to use force 
 their dream of an ultimate British evacuation 
 will fade utterly away. Young Egypt has its 
 tail too high to comprehend this. It is no use 
 counting upon the loyalty of the country to 
 the Khedive. The Nationalists have no loy- 
 alty. Kemember how Khedive Tewfik encour- 
 aged Arabi, and then discovered that his pro- 
 tege had got beyond his control. Many people 
 think that this has happened again, that Khe- 
 dive Abbas was inclined to favour the party 
 of Independence, and now finds that he cannot 
 hold them back. I watched a political street 
 demonstration one day in Cairo, another out- 
 come of the Newspaper Habit. The demon- 
 
THE NEWSPAPER HABIT. 123 
 
 strators had a wild light in their eyes as they 
 shouted their Nationalist watchwords. Clearly 
 they were not people with whom one could 
 argue. The police recognised this and got out 
 a hose -pipe. If only the Government would 
 do the same ! 
 
124 
 
 CHAPTEK XIII. 
 
 A VISIT TO THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY. 
 
 "The Englishman leaning far over to hold his loved India will 
 plant a firm foot on the banks of the Nile and sit in the seats of 
 the Faithful." — Kinglake. 
 
 "Egypt," said Napoleon, "is the most im- 
 portant country in the world." Without ex- 
 aggeration we can declare that for Britain 
 it is still so to-day. Lord Palmerston once 
 remarked in private talk, " If ever the Suez 
 Canal be made, England will be compelled to 
 annex Egypt." 
 
 In course of time the Suez Canal was made. 
 Yet England did not annex Egypt. To have 
 done so then would have meant war with 
 Turkey and France. To do so now might 
 mean war with Turkey and Germany. British 
 diplomacy, however, stumbled upon a way to 
 
A VISIT TO THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY. 125 
 
 safeguard our interests without making any 
 apparent change. 
 
 Actually we altered everything, but we still 
 kept the old names, a peculiarly British method 
 which has on the whole answered well. 
 Nominally the Khedive and his Ministers 
 govern. In effect their British advisers do so. 
 There used to be some difference of opinion 
 as to whether this had benefited the country. 
 There is none now. Foreign observers agree 
 that there is better order, better justice, 
 greater prosperity, a far more efficient Army, 
 an immeasurably more competent system of 
 finance. Even the Nationalists who would 
 send us packing admit that we have set things 
 straight for them. No one dependent on 
 agriculture wants to see the British irrigation 
 engineers leave. The peasantry would never 
 put the same trust in native officials as they 
 do in those of British blood. " Send an Eng- 
 lish inspector" is always the request to the 
 Ministry of the Interior when there is any 
 trouble in the provinces. No one engaged in 
 
126 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 business would go to law with any confidence 
 after the departure of British judges. Yet the 
 Independent Egypt Party become more and 
 more active. Their newspapers are allowed 
 to attack us violently and without the smallest 
 regard for truth. Egyptian officials are being 
 encouraged to think they can get along with- 
 out British help. The impression that "the 
 English are going" gains ground. 
 
 Now, let us suppose that Egypt were handed 
 over to the Nationalists next year. What 
 would happen ? In the first place, there would 
 be a tremendous outcry from the great major- 
 ity of substantial people all over the country. 
 For although most Egyptians, nearly all 
 Egyptians, look forward to a time when they 
 will be left to themselves, they would be very 
 sorry to see us go at once. The Constitutional 
 Party, for example, which has been started by 
 Idris Bey Eagheb, will be quite content for 
 many years to draw up paper Constitutions on 
 the best models, and nothing would alarm them 
 more than to hear that one of their amiable 
 
A VISIT TO THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY. 127 
 
 exercises was really to be tried. In fact, most 
 Egyptians are but platonically in love with 
 independence. 
 
 How could the Coptic Christians feel confi- 
 dence in a Government dominated by men 
 whose organ, Al Lewa> addressed them thus 
 less than two years ago : — 
 
 You should be kicked to death. You have faces 
 and bodies similar to those of demons or monkeys, 
 which is a proof that they hide poisonous spirits 
 within their souls. . . . 
 
 How could men of business have confidence 
 in those who set themselves against the Suez 
 Canal agreement upon sentimental grounds ? 
 How could Europe trust a Parliament which 
 acted as the present General Assembly does? 
 In picturesqueness this body (which has merely 
 consultative powers) stands easily ahead of all 
 other Parliaments. Its eighty members are 
 mostly Arab sheikhs who sweep in with that air 
 of world-masters which the Arabs have never 
 lost since they overran Europe, and which 
 
128 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 alone among peoples they share with the 
 British race. Their black outer robes reveal 
 beneath garments of rich grey or yellow or blue 
 striped silk. Their turbans are white, worn 
 over red skull-caps with blue tassels ! Some 
 of the older ones keep to the traditional red 
 or yellow loose Moslem shoes. They are tall 
 and dignified, yet merry among themselves. 
 
 When I attended one of their sittings I was 
 taken into an anteroom before the proceedings 
 began and introduced to several over cups of 
 coffee and glasses of water and cigarettes, the 
 invariable accompaniments to visits, official 
 or otherwise, in Egypt. Their manners were 
 magnificent and their greetings friendly, 
 though, as scarcely one could speak anything 
 but Arabic, our conversation was limited. They 
 left a much better impression upon me than 
 the members who wear European clothes with 
 tarbushes on their heads, though among the 
 latter, too, there are a few strong, clever faces, 
 such as that of Abaza Pasha, with whom I had 
 an interesting little talk in French. The Presi- 
 
A VISIT TO THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY. 129 
 
 dent seemed timid and altogether of too weak 
 a personality to guide such a turbulent team. 
 There was a curious little scene, illustrating the 
 Assembly's state of mind, when the President 
 proposed to have the report of the Committee 
 on the Suez Canal proposals printed for dis- 
 tribution among members. Instantly there 
 was an uproar. He was accused of trying to 
 deprive them of their rights, which include 
 deciding what documents shall be printed and 
 when. He explained that his object was 
 merely to give every one the opportunity to 
 study it as soon as possible. But he had 
 aroused suspicion. The deputies behaved like 
 children. They refused to allow the report to 
 be printed until they had heard it read ! 
 
 They spend a large part of their time pass- 
 ing resolutions on all kinds of subjects, which 
 they know will be ineffective. These are read 
 over by the secretary. " It appears," wrote 
 Lord Cromer in 1907, "that many of the 
 members are unable to read with facility the 
 resolutions down in their own names, many 
 
 I 
 
130 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 of which were unquestionably dictated to 
 them by others, and the contents of which 
 they often very imperfectly understood." The 
 Assembly rejected a year or two ago a proposal 
 that its members must be able to read and 
 write well. But they can almost all speak 
 well — or at all events, fluently. It is an 
 exercise which they thoroughly enjoy. 
 
 In all there are eighty members of the 
 Assembly — seven Ministers and seventy-three 
 delegates, some nominated, the rest elected. 
 The elections, however, are a farce. All 
 Egyptians of full age have votes, but they 
 do not use them. The number which goes 
 to the poll, even in Cairo and Alexandria, is 
 quite small. In the villages either there is 
 complete apathy, or else the Omdeh (mayor) 
 sends the policeman to drive electors to the 
 polls, where they vote obediently as they are 
 told. As yet the fellah does not even under- 
 stand what representative government means. 
 
 Some of the matters to which the Assembly 
 invites the attention of the Government by 
 
A VISIT TO THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY. 131 
 
 resolution are certainly worth notice. But 
 far too many of them are either merely 
 provocative or merely futile. It is futile to 
 complain of the increasing burdens on the 
 peasantry, when the fact is that the number 
 of small holdings purchased by natives, with 
 the assistance of agricultural, land, and mort- 
 gage banks, has grown very largely in the 
 last ten years. It is provocative to clamour 
 for fuller powers, giving the Assembly control 
 over the financial and general administration 
 of the country. 
 
 A good many members support such motions 
 merely in order to avoid being abused by the 
 native press. In private talk they rate them 
 at their true value, but they lack the courage 
 of their convictions. They follow the line 
 of least resistance for the sake of popularity 
 and peace. What the result of letting the 
 Assembly rule Egypt would be can only be 
 justly estimated by those who have studied 
 their proceedings. Probably it would lead 
 to the seizure of power by some irresponsible 
 
132 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 despot who would use the members for his 
 purpose as long as it suited him and then 
 trample over them. With the fatalism of their 
 Oriental natures, they would shrug their 
 shoulders and let him do as he pleased. 
 
 One incident I saw was most impressive. 
 At sunset the President and some other 
 members had a clean carpet laid on the 
 floor of one of the rooms adjoining the 
 chamber, and said their evening prayers. 
 " Such conduct," commented the * Egyptian 
 Gazette ' with excellent good feeling, " has 
 always created admiration and respect in wit- 
 nesses from the West." It certainly did 
 so in me. I heartily wished I could feel 
 equal respect for their other proceedings. 
 But their repeated demands for the grant 
 of full Parliamentary institutions can only 
 be described in Lord Cromer's words as 
 " wholly spurious and manufactured." 
 
 When Khedive Ismail established a Par- 
 liament, so that Egypt might be in the 
 Western fashion, he explained beforehand to 
 the members how in England and in France 
 
A VISIT TO THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY. 133 
 
 those in favour of the "general policy of 
 the Government" sat on one side of the 
 House and those in opposition to it on the 
 other. When he arrived to open the pro- 
 ceedings he found all the members sitting on 
 the Government side. The opposite benches 
 were empty. There was no Opposition. To 
 oppose the Government, which was really 
 Ismail, would, in the minds of those sheikhs 
 and ulemas, have been an act of madness, 
 likely to result in their losing their liberty, 
 if not their lives. How can it be supposed 
 that the sons of men who reasoned thus 
 less than half a century ago are fit for rep- 
 resentative institutions to be dumped down 
 among them ? 
 
 The assumptions, due to inexperience of 
 the world, that all men are equal ; that it 
 is only environment which influences char- 
 acter ; and that what is good for one nation 
 must be good for all, — would, if they were 
 acted upon, quickly bring our civilisation 
 toppling to the dust. To refuse to admit 
 any essential distinctions between coloured 
 
134 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 people and white, between those who live in 
 hot climates where cultivation is easy and 
 those whom nature compels to work hard 
 for their daily bread, between those who 
 have had generations of civilised self-govern- 
 ing ancestors and those who for centuries 
 have lived as helots and slaves, — to put 
 oneself in this position is to kick against 
 the pricks of Actual Fact. 
 
 The British Empire — for this is an imperial 
 question — should countenance no Government 
 in Egypt which does not make it plain that 
 evacuation is a very long way off. It 
 would also have a good effect if we let it 
 be known that should there be any attempt 
 at revolution in Egypt, resulting in the 
 overthrow of the Khedivial system, we should 
 " sit in the seats of the Faithful " ourselves. 
 It might mean war, but we should have 
 something worth while to fight for. If ever 
 England quits Egypt unwillingly without a 
 struggle, it will mean that the dream of a 
 British Empire has faded utterly away. 
 
135 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THE SUEZ CANAL QUESTION. 
 
 Those who declare that the General Assembly 
 is a body fit to be intrusted with larger 
 powers had an unpleasant jar to their belief 
 when the Assembly rejected, in April 1910, 
 the proposed agreement regarding the Suez 
 Canal. 
 
 It was convoked in extraordinary session 
 to discuss a matter which will affect the 
 welfare of the country, one way or the 
 other, for the next hundred years. This 
 matter was the proposed renewal of the 
 concessions to the Suez Canal Company for 
 another forty years after 1966, when the 
 present agreement between the company and 
 the Egyptian Government expires. 
 
136 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 It may seem like looking a long way 
 ahead to decide now what shall happen 
 sixty years hence. But the company was 
 anxious to get its position clearly defined, 
 and the advantage to Egypt would have 
 been equally great. Egypt needs money 
 for various public works. There is much 
 land waiting to be reclaimed and made fer- 
 tile, if only the Government could afford 
 to undertake further irrigation works. Many 
 people bought lands ten years ago, thinking 
 they would shortly have water brought to 
 them. But no water has come. There are 
 no funds to spare for it. Railways, too, 
 are badly needed. Many cotton growers 
 would extend their plantations into new dis- 
 tricts if they could get their cotton carried 
 to the sea by rail. To send it on camels 
 does not pay. Here are two ways in which 
 the development of the country is kept back 
 by lack of money for public works. Then 
 there is education : a better system urgently 
 required : impossible for lack of funds. 
 
THE SUEZ CANAL QUESTION. 137 
 
 Well, Egypt had now the chance to make 
 up these deficiencies at no cost to herself. 
 Here was the situation. When the Canal 
 was made forty years ago, the company ob- 
 tained a concession from the Government 
 for a century from 1869. It was also ar- 
 ranged at that time that the Government 
 should receive 15 per cent of the profits, 
 which amount at present to between two 
 and three million pounds a-year. This 15 per 
 cent was unfortunately surrendered in the 
 financial chaos which led to the intervention 
 in Egyptian affairs of Great Britain and 
 France, and now Egypt gets nothing out 
 of the Canal at all. Nor under the original 
 arrangement could it get anything for sixty 
 years to come. As Mr H. P. Harvey, 
 financial adviser to the Khedive, said in a 
 Note presented last year to the Cabinet — 
 
 The actual situation presents this anomaly, that 
 the present generation, upon whom falls a heavy 
 part of the sacrifices entailed by the construction 
 of the Canal, derives no benefit from it, whereas 
 
1^8 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 in sixty years the generations to come will find 
 in it, perhaps, a vast source of wealth. It would 
 be not only fair, but economically a great advantage, 
 to let Egypt of to-day and the next generation 
 receive a portion of the future profits. 
 
 The proposal before the Legislative Council, 
 then, was this : That for forty years, from 
 1969, the company should still own the Canal, 
 but should divide the annual profit with the 
 Government. In return for this prolongation 
 of their concession, the company undertook 
 to pay into the Egyptian Treasury during the 
 sixty years to come annual sums carefully cal- 
 culated on a fair financial basis. These sums, 
 it is estimated, would in the period between 
 1910 and 1969 have placed at the disposal of 
 the Government an amount not less than 
 £90,000,000. My authority for this figure is 
 Dr Nimr, editor of the widely circulated Arabic 
 journal El MoJcattam, and one of the ablest 
 men in the country. Wisely spent, such an 
 amount would be of enormous advantage to a 
 country perpetually in want of funds. 
 
THE SUEZ CANAL QUESTION. 139 
 
 Why, then, did the Nationalist Party so 
 clamorously demand that the Legislative 
 Assembly should reject the proposal? Why 
 did the members of the Council meet in a 
 spirit of antagonism to the scheme ? Why 
 was Prince Hussein, the President of the 
 Council, so depressed by their attitude (and 
 by the personal attacks made upon himself 
 also) that he resigned his post and abandoned 
 public life? The key to the situation lay in 
 the phrase, "Egypt for the Egyptians/' The 
 noisy Nationalists said, " Let us get rid of all 
 foreigners as quickly as we can." Also they 
 argued that if Egypt obtains possession of 
 the Canal in 1969 it will be able to make 
 huge profits. Also they profess to disbelieve 
 that the £90,000,000 would be applied to the 
 development of Egypt. "The English would 
 steal it," they snarled, " or send it to the 
 Sudan." 
 
 As to their contention that Egypt would 
 benefit to a greater extent financially by tak- 
 ing over the Canal in 1969, it was palpably 
 
140 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 unsound. The Canal has become so necessary 
 to the commerce of all nations that they 
 would certainly not allow the dues to be 
 raised ; and to make the Nationalist dream 
 come true with the present rates in force, 
 ships would have to follow one another 
 through at the rate of one an hour, both by 
 night and day, which is manifestly absurd. 
 In all probability the Canal dues will have 
 to be reduced again before very long, as 
 they have been once already. There is this to 
 be considered, too. In sixty years' time the 
 modes of travel and conveyance may be 
 as different from those of to-day as the 
 latter are from those of 1869. There is 
 the conquest of the air to be reckoned 
 with. 
 
 In any case, it is quite possible that in 
 sixty years 7 time the Powers might decline alto- 
 gether to let the Canal pass under Egyptian 
 control. At all events, commercial opinion 
 is very strongly in favour of continuing the 
 management of the company as long as 
 
THE SUEZ CANAL QUESTION. 141 
 
 possible. If one eliminated the business 
 aspect, one could sympathise to a certain 
 extent with Nationalist feelings, even though 
 one saw how misguided they were. But there 
 cannot be any doubt, looking at the question 
 from a financial standpoint, that the renewal 
 of the concession would greatly benefit Egypt, 
 both at present and in the long-run. 
 
 But what happened? The elaborate report 
 drawn up by the Financial Adviser was ridi- 
 culed. A reply to it was drawn up declaring 
 its calculations incorrect. Great stress was 
 laid upon the exclusion of Egyptians from 
 the management of the Canal, which certainly 
 is a hardship. That, however, could have 
 been remedied by a clause in the convention 
 providing for the gradual introduction of 
 native engineers in minor posts. A fictitious 
 agitation was got up all over the country. 
 The proposal was represented as a blow at 
 Egyptian hopes and aspirations. Finally, the 
 Assembly threw it out. 
 
 Why they were given the deciding voice 
 
142 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 no one could understand, except Sir Elden 
 Gorst, and he kept the reason to himself. 
 Never before had they been permitted to 
 exercise a legislative function : they had been 
 simply a consultative body. It caused gen- 
 eral astonishment when the Khedive, having 
 recommended the project to them as being 
 approved by the Government, went on to 
 say : " My Ministers, however, have decided 
 not to settle this exceptionally important 
 affair until they know whether the General 
 Assembly is favourable to the prolongation." 
 Thus the Assembly was put upon its trial. 
 Some held that this was really Sir Elden 
 Gorst's deep-laid plot to show it up. If it 
 had decided this matter in such a way as to 
 show that it had the interests of the country at 
 heart, it would have taken a good step forward 
 towards Parliamentary government in Egypt. 
 By allowing itself to be swayed by passion 
 and fanaticism, it made itself impotent for 
 years to come, and strengthened mightily the 
 arguments of those who declare that the 
 
THE SUEZ CANAL QUESTION. 143 
 
 Nationalists are not fit to take any part in 
 the government of their country. 
 
 Sir Elden Gorst wrote in his report for 
 1908 that "no extension of the functions of 
 the Assembly is desirable until their proceed- 
 ings show that such a course can be adopted 
 without danger to the wellbeing of the com- 
 munity." That only made more inexplicable 
 his deliberate extension of their functions 
 before they had shown anything of the kind. 
 To abandon to such a body the interests of 
 the people we have undertaken to protect 
 would be, not only a folly, but a national 
 crime. 
 
144 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THE RISE OF THE " NATIONALISTS." 
 
 " I may be told it is our duty to raise the Oriental mind to the 
 intellectual standard of European civilisation. For myself I am 
 sceptical as to the truth of that theoretical duty. " — Edward 
 Dicey, C.B. 
 
 I have already quoted Lord Cromer's de- 
 scription of the demand for Parliamentary 
 government in Egypt as "wholly spurious 
 and manufactured." But the phrase needs 
 explanation. I can best explain it by a 
 sketch of the Nationalist movement. 
 
 This movement has been ignored by almost 
 all writers about Egypt. Only the less serious 
 of them have touched upon it, and they have 
 either merely abused the Nationalists, or else 
 accepted them at their own valuation. To 
 understand the state of the country, their 
 
THE RISE OP THE "NATIONALISTS. 145 
 
 agitation must be viewed impartially, even 
 with some sympathy, for it is quite possible 
 to detest what people are doing, and yet to 
 feel that we might do likewise if we were in 
 their place. 
 
 What Lord Cromer meant, when he used 
 the epithets "spurious and manufactured," 
 was this. The demand for a Parliament 
 which shall really govern the country is not, 
 as is pretended, a "national" demand at all. 
 It comes only from a very small section of 
 the people of Egypt. The great mass of the 
 population are content to be governed by 
 anybody so long as the methods of government 
 are humane, equitable, and firm. From expe- 
 rience the peasantry have learnt that British 
 rule is fairer than that of the Turk ; there is 
 no oppression, no forced labour, no tax-farming 
 with its attendant hardships. The supply of 
 water, upon which the prosperity of the 
 country depends, is ampler and better regu- 
 lated. British officials are trusted to do 
 justice according to their lights. There has 
 
 K 
 
146 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 not until lately been any dissatisfaction among 
 the people at large with the results of the 
 British occupation. 
 
 Such dissatisfaction as now exists began 
 among the small section of Egyptian effendis 
 (gentlemen), who feel it a grievance that 
 they are not governing the country, and who 
 have mostly been educated upon Western lines. 
 The cause of unrest is the same in Egypt 
 as in India. In each country there has come 
 into being a class of half-Europeanised agi- 
 tators who have hastily swallowed the modern 
 ideas of Liberty and Nationality and Popular 
 Government, and who are suffering in con- 
 sequence from severe mental indigestion. If 
 they were thoroughly steeped in Western 
 thought they would understand that self- 
 government by means of Parliamentary in- 
 stitutions is a plant of slow growth, which 
 must push up from deep roots, going through 
 various stages of development before it comes 
 to maturity. It cannot be imported from an 
 alien soil and dumped down upon a surface 
 
THE RISE OF THE " NATIONALISTS. 147 
 
 unprepared to receive it. In Egypt, however, 
 as in India and in Russia, there is a pathetic 
 belief among the advocates of change that 
 a Parliament is a specific remedy for all evils, 
 — a pill which can be confidently counted on 
 to purge the body politic of all undesirable 
 humours. 
 
 The Nationalists in Egypt are, I believe, 
 quite sincere in their conviction that if Britain 
 withdrew, and left the Egyptians a system 
 of Parliamentary government, all would be 
 well with the country. They forget that the 
 Egyptian peasant, unable to read or write, 
 with no experience of public affairs, and no 
 interests, as a rule, outside the routine of 
 daily life, is utterly unfitted to govern him- 
 self. Even the more or less educated native 
 has been too recently freed from tyranny to 
 feel that sturdy self-sufficiency which must 
 be the backbone of a popular system. He is 
 a voluble talker, and his energies evaporate 
 in words. He is often a useful subordinate. 
 Many of the natives who have recently been 
 
148 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 given places in the public service have justified 
 their appointments. But there are very few 
 Egyptians who could be trusted with power 
 over their fellows. They have not the balance 
 of mind, the firm judgment, the impartiality, 
 which are required in an administrator acting 
 without a constant check upon his proceedings 
 from above. 
 
 Let me give an instance. If Egyptian 
 officials and officers had been capable men, 
 the Mahdi's revolt could have been snuffed 
 out before it became serious. Egypt would 
 have been saved the expense of reconquering 
 the Sudan. The Sudan would have been 
 saved from the grim nightmare of Mahdist 
 tyranny. At the very beginning of the 
 Holy War, Abu Saud, an Egyptian, was sent 
 to bid the False Prophet to Khartoum. Abu 
 Saud, however, was overawed by the Mahdi's 
 pretensions. His Oriental mind was im- 
 pressed by the confidence of the fanatic. He 
 went back without him. 
 
 Then came the first expedition against the 
 
THE RISE OF THE "NATIONALISTS. 149 
 
 Mahdist forces. This was completely muddled 
 by Egyptian officers, who fired on one another 
 instead of at the enemy, and left the situation 
 much worse than they found it. A little later 
 another Egyptian officer, Mohammed Guma, 
 could have wiped the Mahdi out, but he re- 
 ferred to El Obeid for instructions, and the 
 chance slipped away. That is the Egyptian's 
 instinct, as it is the Hindu's — to ask somebody 
 "What shall I do?" 
 
 Yet a further opportunity of crushing the 
 serpent which grew to such a huge size was 
 offered when the first attack of the Mahdists 
 upon El Obeid had been repulsed. Said Pasha, 
 the governor-general of Kirdofan, might have 
 pursued and captured the Prophet, but he sat 
 still. It is pitiful to think what misery and 
 degradation followed as the direct result of 
 this chain of feeble mistakes. 
 
 Still we cannot reasonably expect the 
 Egyptians to see themselves as others see 
 them. The Nationalists think they are cap- 
 able of governing the country far better than 
 
150 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 it is governed under British supervision. And 
 their real object is to get the government 
 into their own hands. Their talk about 
 representative institutions is a blind. They 
 see that they can only work towards their 
 aim by using the catchwords of Democracy, so 
 as to win simple-minded believers in "Pro- 
 gress " over to their side. If they said, " We 
 want to rule as an oligarchy ; we want billets 
 for ourselves ; we consider that, as a class, 
 we effendis have the right to manage our 
 country's affairs," — if they put their demand 
 thus bluntly, the believers in Progress would 
 be shocked. So they are adroit enough to 
 pretend they are the liberators of the masses, 
 and that they are really giving voice to the 
 aspirations of the fellahin. 
 
 It was Mustapha Pasha Kamel who first saw 
 the advantage of so ingenious a "bluff." To 
 this quick-witted young man (he was only 
 thirty -four when he died on February 10, 
 1908) the Nationalist agitation is almost en- 
 tirely due. As soon as he came of age, he 
 
THE RISE OF THE " NATIONALISTS. 151 
 
 began to organise a party of independence. 
 This was in 1895. He had all the precocious 
 ability of the Oriental boy, and with it went 
 a restless energy which kept him constantly 
 at work. He also had a good income, and 
 devoted it to pushing his schemes. From 
 1895-98 he went round the Continent seek- 
 ing to enlist sympathy with the idea of a 
 free Egypt. He was for a time secretary 
 to the French statesman, M. Deloncle, and 
 had a good deal of diplomatic address. Also 
 he was a fluent writer, unscrupulous in his 
 methods, skilled in the use of specious logical 
 forms which easily affected minds unaccus- 
 tomed to think. Here are some extracts from 
 his book, ' Egyptiens et Anglais,' published in 
 Paris in 1906 :— 
 
 England has only laid hands on the government of 
 Egypt in order the better to stifle the national senti- 
 ment, and remove the Egyptians from every source of 
 science and liberty. . . . 
 
 The conduct of the English towards us is unworthy 
 and revolting. All our men of worth are driven from 
 power. 
 
152 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 How many times have we not seen these civilisers 
 commit crimes in broad daylight for the mere pleasure 
 of killing ! . . . Two years ago the English authority 
 at Cairo caused seven persons to be burned alive at 
 Baliana, in Upper Egypt, on the pretext that they 
 were robbers and resisted the police. 
 
 The first and second are merely "hot air." 
 The third is a shameless lie. 
 
 In 1908 Mustapha Pasha Kamel founded the 
 Lewa (Standard) to be the newspaper organ 
 of his party. It was cleverly edited, and its 
 slashing abuse of everything British soon 
 won it circulation. Yet for a long time the 
 Nationalist movement hung fire. In 1906, 
 however, three events combined to carry it 
 forward. 
 
 The defeat of the Kussians, a Western race, 
 by the Japanese, an Oriental race, sent a 
 ripple of excitement throughout the East, and 
 certainly fanned the flicker of anti - British 
 feeling in Egypt. The incident of the Sinai 
 Peninsula, where the Turks attempted to in- 
 vade Egyptian soil, and were compelled by 
 
153 
 
 Great Britain to retire, had the same effect. 
 For although it was their own territory upon 
 which Turkish troops had encroached, yet the 
 Nationalists turned round and abused England 
 for keeping it intact. "You may have done 
 something for us," they said in effect, "but 
 we hate you all the more for it. And please 
 understand that, if ever you and Turkey went 
 to war, we should be on Turkey's side." No 
 wonder Lord Cromer remarked pathetically in 
 one of his reports — 
 
 It is the extreme inconsistency of the Oriental 
 mind which renders Eastern affairs so difficult of 
 comprehension. 
 
 The third cause which lent more driving- 
 power to the Young Egypt Party (as it had 
 now come to be called) was the wretched 
 Denshawai affair. Of this I give an account 
 later on. Enough to say at present that out 
 of a deplorable series of misunderstandings 
 arose the belief in Egypt that British officers 
 had no respect for either property or life, and 
 
154 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 the belief in England that our soldiers were 
 liable at any moment to be beaten to death 
 by enraged peasants. Naturally the Nation- 
 alist movement went ahead. 
 
 During 1906 the situation in Egypt seemed 
 to be serious. " All this year," Sir Edward 
 Grey told the House of Commons in July, 
 acting as mouthpiece for Lord Cromer, — " all 
 this year fanatical feeling has been on the 
 increase," and he added that if it got the 
 better of authority, the necessity for "extreme 
 measures" would arise. Happily, the increase 
 of the British garrison had the effect of 
 immediately producing " comparative tran- 
 quillity." But there had been grave danger 
 of another an ti- Christian and anti-European 
 outbreak like that which came to a head in 
 1882 under Arabi Pasha. Several attacks 
 had been made on Englishmen. A soldier was 
 assaulted in Cairo. Another was knocked off 
 his donkey in the country and kicked. An 
 irrigation inspector was stoned. Even in 
 1907, during the cab strike, there were signs 
 
155 
 
 of anti-European feeling. Those who think 
 that we might relax our methods in Egypt 
 should ponder these things. Eeligion and 
 politics are still inextricably mixed. The 
 Nationalist leaders are not fanatical. But 
 they have appealed to the fanaticism of the 
 people, seeing that by no other means could 
 they interest them in the Independence agita- 
 tion. They have thus unchained a monster 
 they cannot control. The first cries that are 
 heard in popular disturbances are " Down with 
 the Christians ! " and " Let the Europeans go ! " 
 
156 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE FRUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARCHISM. 
 
 " There are foolish empiricists who believe that the granting of 
 a paper constitution, especially if prefaced by some high-sounding 
 declaration, can of itself confer the power of self-government upon 
 a people. This is never so. Nobody can 'give' a people self- 
 government any more than it is possible to 'give' an individual 
 self-help." — Mr Roosevelt at the Egyptian University, Cairo. 
 
 The trouble which seemed to be coming to 
 a head in 1906 was thus, for the time being, 
 quieted down by the increase of the British 
 garrison in Egypt. But the seeds of hatred 
 which Mustapha Kamel had sowed in favourable 
 soil continued to germinate. It is, after all, 
 natural that the effendi class in Egypt should 
 resent not being permitted to run the country 
 themselves. They do not see that it is really 
 Europe which refuses them this permission, 
 and that, if Britain went, it would only be 
 
THE FRUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARCHISM. 157 
 
 to leave the road open for some other Power. 
 11 This at least may be laid down with abso- 
 lute certainty," wrote Lord Kosebery when he 
 was Foreign Secretary in 1893, "that Egypt 
 would in no case be released from European 
 control, which might possibly be asserted in 
 a much more stringent and irksome form 
 than at present." Therefore, when Mustapha 
 Kamel set out to convince his fellow- 
 Egyptians of the richer classes that the 
 English had been among them too long, he 
 spoke to audiences already half convinced. 
 He did not imagine that in his own lifetime 
 "the English would go." But he said 
 that he could at least teach the Egypt- 
 ians to hate the Occupation and all its in- 
 struments, — that is to say, the men who 
 were doing their best to "establish on sure 
 foundations the principles of justice, liberty, 
 and public happiness." 
 
 In this Mustapha Kamel unfortunately suc- 
 ceeded, so far as the effendi class of more or 
 less Europeanised Egyptians was concerned. 
 
158 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 On the whole, the Europeanised Egyptian is 
 more to be pitied than blamed. Such 
 education as he has had naturally leaves 
 him discontented. It unsettles his mind ; 
 it denationalises him, cuts him off from the 
 intellectual and spiritual life of his fellow- 
 countrymen. His nature is in a ferment. 
 He has probably been trained to no calling : 
 he is only fit to be a clerk in a Government 
 office, and in that direction the market is 
 overstocked. Is it any wonder that he 
 seeks the cause of his discontent rather 
 without than within ? 
 
 " If the English went," he says to him- 
 self, " there would be a chance for me to find 
 some comfortable berth under Government. 
 It is a disgrace to any country to have its 
 affairs managed by foreigners. ' Egypt for 
 the Egyptians' shall be my cry." 
 
 So, if he has a restless nature, like Mustapha 
 Kamel, he preaches discontent and inde- 
 pendence to the young students in the Cairo 
 colleges of medicine, of law, of agriculture. 
 
THE FRUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARCHISM. 159 
 
 He taunts the native army officers with 
 being kept in subjection to Englishmen. He 
 reviles all who are in favour of British rule. 
 Then, rinding that the only way to rouse 
 the Jellah is to play upon his religious feelings, 
 he solemnly warns gaping peasant audiences 
 that Islam is in danger. 
 
 He himself has no religion. From that, as 
 well as from most of his other Oriental sheet- 
 anchors, his education has cut him loose. 
 Yet he retains almost always the Oriental 
 view of women. He speaks of them in a 
 manner revolting to the Western ear; and 
 he organises his home-life on the Eastern plan 
 of separate apartments for husband and wife, 
 separate meals, children brought up in the 
 harem and left chiefly to the care of ser- 
 vants, women secluded and veiled. I am 
 not presuming to blame him for this adhesion 
 to the customs of his country. The harem 
 system has many advantages. It is foolish 
 for Europeans to decry it, — to imagine that 
 harem women are unhappy, and would rather 
 
160 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 be typists or shop - girls ; to contrast their 
 existence with those of wives in the West. 
 Such movement as there is in Egypt towards 
 home -life in our sense — that is to say, 
 comradeship and community of interest 
 between husband and wife — is not among 
 women, but among men. To suppose that 
 Eastern women resent seclusion is absurd. 
 People do not resent the mode of life to 
 which they are accustomed. It seems natural 
 to them. They can hardly imagine themselves 
 living in any other way. I only mention that 
 the Europeanised Egyptian still holds, as a 
 rule, the Eastern idea of women as an odd 
 little fact which illustrates the thinness of 
 the Occidental varnish that has been hastily 
 daubed over his soul. 
 
 Although the increase of the British troops 
 in Egypt had its effect in 1906, the agita- 
 tion continued. It continued, however, upon 
 more " constitutional" lines, and it was not 
 so well supported by rich malcontents. To- 
 wards the end of 1907 it was found necessary 
 
THE FRUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARCHISM. 161 
 
 to organise a united Party out of the various 
 Nationalist sections, for the purpose both of 
 putting forward a "national" programme 
 and of appealing to the Egyptian people for 
 funds. The wealthy Turks and Egyptians, 
 who had hitherto supported the movement 
 with their gold, had two reasons for ceasing 
 to subscribe. They had been given a proof 
 that the British Government was not affected 
 by the agitation, and they had suffered severe 
 losses, many of them, in the " boom " and 
 the crash. 
 
 The programme drawn up was moderately 
 worded. It demanded, after Evacuation, a 
 return to the Constitution of Tewfik (1882), 
 which was suspended in 1883. This Con- 
 stitution was of "an advanced democratic 
 character." It established a Chamber of 
 Deputies (which never met). The members 
 were to be paid and their persons were to 
 be inviolable. They were to control taxation 
 and to decide as to every measure proposed. 
 On paper the scheme was enticing. But 
 
 L 
 
162 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 the leaders of the Arabi "Rebellion forgot, 
 what Lord Dufferin pointed out, that " in 
 the East even the germs of constitutional 
 freedom are non-existent. Despotism not 
 only destroys the seeds of Liberty, but 
 renders the soil on which it has trampled 
 incapable of growing the plant " without a 
 long period of preparation. The twenty -four 
 years which had slipped by between the 
 writing of these words and the demand for- 
 mulated by the Nationalists in 1907 had 
 certainly not done enough to change the 
 character of the soil. 
 
 Mustapha Kamel and others have used the 
 argument that, if the Egyptians are not yet 
 fit to govern themselves on Western lines, 
 it must be the fault of the English adminis- 
 trators. A more ridiculous plea was never 
 advanced. In the first place, it is doubtful 
 whether an Eastern people will ever take 
 kindly to representative government. They 
 never have shown any disposition to govern 
 themselves in that way (Turkey and Persia 
 
THE FRUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARCHISM. 163 
 
 are merely making experiments, of which 
 the results may be looked for, say, in fifty 
 years). But, even if it be granted that the 
 Egyptians are on the road to Parliamentary 
 institutions, what is twenty-four years in the 
 life of a nation ? A mere second of time. 
 It would be as reasonable to expect a savage 
 from the swamps of Kodok to develop in a 
 year into a Londoner or Parisian as to look 
 for such a change in Egypt within any period 
 less than a century at the very least. 
 
 The Nationalist programme included also 
 the demand for free and compulsory educa- 
 tion, with secondary schools in every province, 
 and a University to prevent the country 
 from " becoming poorer and poorer in emi- 
 nent men." That last is a good example 
 of Nationalist thought. The production of 
 eminent men is a mechanical process ! Pro- 
 vide a University, and they will automatically 
 appear ! ! This is the fallacy on which all 
 Young Egypt's arguments are based. Apply 
 Western methods, and Western results are 
 
164 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 bound to follow. It is pathetic, and so truly 
 Eastern — this sublime belief in the power 
 of the machine. 
 
 On February 10, 1908, the Young Egyptians 
 lost their leader. Mustapha Kamel died, 
 still a young man, only thirty -four. Ten 
 thousand people followed him through Cairo 
 to his grave, but it was noticed that they 
 were of his own class. The poor and the 
 peasantry took no part. A new leader was 
 found in Mahomed Bey Ferid, who lacked 
 the qualities of his predecessor, and has made 
 very little mark. An unofficial lieutenant was 
 found, however, in Sheikh Shawish, a fluent 
 writer, who had been for a time a teacher 
 of Arabic in Oxford, and who conducted the 
 Lewa with vigorous animosity. 
 
 A feature of the campaign during the 
 summer of 1908 was a growing disposition 
 to include the Khedive in the attacks upon 
 British rule. This was due to his Highness's 
 friendship with Sir Eldon Gorst, who had 
 become British Agent, in succession to Lord 
 
THE FEUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARCHISM. 165 
 
 Cromer, in 1907. At first this appointment 
 was welcomed both by Egyptians and Euro- 
 peans. Sir Eldon was said to be the choice 
 of Lord Cromer. He knew Egypt well. He 
 was known to be clever and industrious. It 
 was given out that he would follow the lines 
 of Lord Cromer's policy. 
 
 Unfortunately, in his last years of office, 
 Lord Cromer had come to take the view 
 that Egypt was a burden to Britain, a view 
 he expressed in his * Ancient and Modern Im- 
 perialism ' (1910); and that Britain would be 
 glad to get rid of it. The great man had 
 grown weary, no doubt. He had borne the 
 heat and dust of the long day, and he began 
 to feel that it was too much. When Sir 
 Eldon told a gathering of British officials soon 
 after his arrival in Cairo that "they were 
 not there to govern Egypt indefinitely, but 
 to teach the Egyptians to govern them- 
 selves," he was understood to be carrying 
 out Lord Cromer's ideas. 
 
 Of course it made him unpopular with these 
 
166 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 officials and with English people generally ; 
 they were surprised at such a sentiment from 
 one who had hitherto talked the other way. 
 He became still less a favourite when he 
 began promoting Egyptians in the Govern- 
 ment service, and putting Englishmen who 
 had devoted a good part of their lives to the 
 country into back seats. But, on the other 
 hand, the Nationalists extolled his wisdom, 
 and proclaimed the opening of a new era, 
 which would shortly fulfil their highest hopes. 
 
 Judge of their disgust, then, at his emphatic 
 condemnation of their activity in his annual 
 reports. He severely blamed the Assembly 
 for inefficient performance of its duties. He 
 denounced the " violent nonsense poured daily 
 into the ears of Egyptian youths at school 
 or college" by the Nationalist Press. But at 
 the same time he permitted this daily flood 
 to continue, and to turn its venom upon him 
 and the Khedive. 
 
 Abbas the Second had taken a long time 
 to settle down. He had to be snubbed by 
 
THE FRUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARCHISM. 167 
 
 Lord Cromer several times; more than once 
 his humiliation was public. Even as late as 
 1907, 'The Times' said of him that he had 
 "always exhibited an imprudent restiveness," 
 and that there was no reason to believe " that 
 any addition to his authority would be exer- 
 cised otherwise than to the detriment of 
 Egypt." This was, perhaps, a little severe. 
 The Khedive is not a man of much character 
 or ability, save in the management of his 
 estates, and in promoting the interests of 
 agriculture, — a very useful work. He was also 
 at this time supposed to be encouraging the 
 Nationalists. But he has done nothing since 
 in that direction, in spite of the difficulty of 
 his position, which must always be taken 
 into account when his attitude is judged. 
 
 Consequently the Nationalists have con- 
 tinued at intervals to slight him, even when, 
 as in the spring of 1910, they were praising 
 Sir Eldon Gorst. They fancied the British 
 Agent was favourable to their demand for an 
 extension of the Assembly's powers. The Suez 
 
168 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Canal affair made them think so. But they 
 had another shock when his report came out, 
 denouncing them as the instigators of the 
 murder of Boutros Pasha. In this he was 
 certainly correct. The Nationalist newspapers 
 had been allowed more and more licence to 
 vilify and slander British rule. Their violence 
 had been scarcely checked. They defended 
 the murderer of Sir Curzon Wyllie. They 
 openly advocated the removal of those who 
 stood in the way of their schemes. The 
 natural result followed. A young man, with 
 a typically Nationalist brain, unbalanced, easily 
 inflamed, decided to pass from words to an 
 act. He had more resolution than the typical 
 Nationalist, more courage. He was also of 
 a dramatic turn of mind, and fancied him- 
 self as a patriot - martyr of the Harmodius 
 and Aristogeiton brand. He killed an old 
 man who had done more for Egypt than any 
 other statesman of his time. Sir Eldon Gorst 
 may exclaim with pained surprise that the 
 Nationalist leaders and newspapers were re- 
 
THE FKUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARCHISM. 169 
 
 sponsible for the death of Boutros Pasha 
 Ghali. But who was responsible for allowing 
 them to advocate murder, to egg on poor 
 wretches of the Wardani type to silly, fruit- 
 less crimes ? Who but Sir Eldon Gorst 
 himself ? 
 
 Nor was his action after the murder calcu- 
 lated to undo the harm. The Prime Minister 
 was shot on Sunday, February 20, 1910. 
 Wardani was arrested on the spot. But then 
 there followed a very ill-judged, and to those 
 who understood the seriousness of the situa- 
 tion, an exasperating, delay in bringing the 
 murderer to trial. No steps were taken to 
 hurry on the proceedings. Even at the outset 
 the police acted in a very leisurely way. They 
 made no search for incriminating documents 
 until enough time had elapsed for all such 
 papers to be destroyed. The Copts, and 
 many others besides, recalled the swift fate 
 which befell the unfortunate villagers of Den- 
 shawai when a British officer was killed there. 
 Within three days the four men had been 
 
170 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 hanged, and a number of others beaten or 
 lodged for long terms in jail. This summary 
 and exemplary treatment of persons concerned 
 in the death of a British officer was not 
 unnaturally contrasted with a slow dragging 
 on of the process of bringing Wardani to 
 justice. 
 
 A strong man would have proclaimed martial 
 law after the murder. He would have hung 
 the wretched criminal without delay, and 
 would have struck terror into the National- 
 ists' souls — not a very difficult matter. It is 
 perhaps hardly fair to blame Sir Eldon Gorst 
 for not taking this course. He is essentially 
 an official. Men do not gather grapes of 
 thorns, or figs of thistles. But there was 
 reason to blame him for allowing the case to 
 come before one Greek and two native judges, 
 who showed themselves afraid to deal with it, 
 and who finally shifted their responsibility on 
 to a commission of doctors appointed to decide 
 whether Boutros Pasha died from the bullet 
 wounds inflicted by his cowardly assailant or 
 
THE FRUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARCHISM. 171 
 
 from shock caused by the operation which was 
 performed in the hope of saving his life I 
 
 Such a course seems almost too farcical for 
 belief. It is a fair specimen of Egyptian 
 justice when Britain holds her hand and lets 
 the Oriental spirit take its course. The 
 Nationalist papers had been excusing the 
 crime, and suggesting various methods of 
 securing Wardani's acquittal ever since the 
 morrow of his arrest. They hinted with un- 
 mistakable emphasis that there would be an 
 outburst of popular resentment if he were 
 hanged. It was natural for the native judges 
 to be intimidated. But what can we think of 
 a British Agent who, whether from fear of 
 consequences or from official apathy, failed to 
 rise to such an occasion, and to show the party 
 of sedition that there was a firm hand at the 
 helm in Egypt, and still a spirit which could 
 not be cowed by covert threats? 
 
 The trial of Wardani dragged on until 
 May 13. The medical quibble having been 
 defeated, the plea of "political motive" was 
 
172 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 raised. The manner in which the defence was 
 conducted may be judged from the close of the 
 speech made by Wardani's leading counsel 
 before the verdict was delivered. He ceased 
 to address the court, but spoke directly to the 
 accused. After apologising to him for abasing 
 him to the level of ordinary criminals as he 
 had been compelled to do in the interest of 
 his defence, he went on : — 
 
 If your great soul refuses to live enchained, 
 if you do not wish to live in the bagnio with 
 brigands and evildoers (for that is all the pity 
 a merciful judge can give you), arise, go to 
 your death with a brave heart and a firm step. 
 For death will come to you to-morrow, if not 
 to-day, and will not be denied. Go, my child, 
 go to your God, who holds the scales of sub- 
 lime equity untrammelled by the necessities of 
 time or circumstance. Go ; our hearts go with 
 you, our eyes will weep for you for ever. Go ; 
 your death sentence, pronounced by human 
 justice, may prove more than your life, a great 
 lesson to your people and your country. Go; 
 
THE FRUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARCHISM. 173 
 
 if man has no pity for you, Divine mercy is 
 fathomless. Farewell, my child. Farewell, 
 farewell ! 
 
 The judges, one Greek and two native, made 
 no attempt to stop their court being turned 
 into a political arena. But they did pluck up 
 courage to pronounce sentence, which was then 
 referred, as a matter of form, to the Grand 
 Mufti, the ecclesiastical head of the Moslem 
 community. In such circumstances an evasive 
 reply is almost always given by this func- 
 tionary. But the reasons which he gave for 
 remitting the death penalty in this case were 
 very curious, if nothing more. His answer 
 was as follows : — 
 
 In Mussulman law he is considered as 
 an assassin who shall have caused the 
 death of a fellow - creature by striking 
 him with a crushing or cutting weapon, 
 and this without motive on the part of 
 the victim. For the assassin to be con- 
 sidered as such he must be of mature age, 
 
174 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 and in full possession of all his mental 
 faculties. It is also necessary that death 
 should be the actual result of the blows 
 given, and that there should not exist 
 any other considerations of a nature to 
 cast any doubt on the direct cause of 
 death. It is further necessary that the 
 complaint should be brought before the 
 judge by one of those who claims for the 
 blood of the victim. 
 
 In other words, Mussulman law did not con- 
 sider Wardani an assassin for these reasons : — 
 
 He killed the Premier with a revolver, which 
 
 is neither a crushing nor a cutting 
 
 weapon. 
 He may have had provocation. 
 It was not certain that death resulted from 
 
 the actual blows given. 
 The complaint was not brought by a relation 
 
 of the murdered man, but by the state. 
 
 Mahomed Ferid, the Nationalist leader, wrote 
 to the Paris 'Eclair' a letter in which he 
 
THE FRUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARCHISM. 175 
 
 stated the grounds of the Mufti's dissent from 
 the sentence, and by implication approved them. 
 It was not true, however, as at first reported, 
 that the Mufti included among his points of 
 protest the fact that Boutros was a Christian. 
 One London newspaper (not a halfpenny one !) 
 went as far as to print an absurd despatch 
 from a "special correspondent" which based 
 an alarmist harangue upon this rumour. 
 The truth about Egypt is difficult, indeed, to 
 sift out from between those who defend all 
 official actions and those who burst into 
 excited eloquence without any knowledge of 
 the matter in hand. 
 
 It only remains to add that Wardani was 
 hanged, after the dismissal of an appeal, on 
 June 28, and that the inflammatory Press 
 kept quiet in fear of a new Press Law, which 
 had been passed, in spite of protests, a little 
 time before. Numbers of students and school- 
 boys wore mourning for the murderer, but 
 there were no disturbances. Only a short 
 while earlier Sir Eldon Gorst had been hooted 
 
176 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 at the railway station, an unpleasant symp- 
 tom of the "drop in British stock." After 
 Mr Roosevelt had given his "Egyptian Uni- 
 versity" address, denouncing the murder and 
 remarking that it took generations to train 
 a nation for the duties of self-government, 
 there was a noisy gathering of young men 
 in Cairo who marched past Shepheard's Hotel 
 where he was staying and raised angry cries 
 of protest. But the new Press Law and 
 the fate of Wardani had produced their effect. 
 Cairo was perfectly quiet after the Nationalist 
 "hero" had been justly punished. 
 
 To this acceptance of the inevitable Sir 
 Edward Grey's declarations in the House of 
 Commons on July 13 had also contributed. 
 A discussion arose on Mr Koosevelt's speech 
 at the Guildhall, in which, while praising 
 heartily British rule in East Africa, Uganda, 
 and the Soudan, he spoke of the condition 
 of Egypt as " a grave menace to your Empire 
 and to civilisation." "You have erred," said 
 the ex-President of the United States, "in the 
 
THE FRUITS OF SENTIMENTAL ANARCHISM. 177 
 
 effort to do too much for the Egyptians, and 
 it is for you to make good your error. . . . 
 Weakness, timidity, sentimentality may cause 
 more harm than violence and injustice. . . . 
 If you do not wish to establish and keep 
 order in Egypt, get out of Egypt." 
 
 No other man in the world could have 
 made such a speech and won the thanks 
 of the British race. No other man would 
 have dared to speak with such true friend- 
 liness. Yet, as Mr Balfour declared in 
 Parliament, he said nothing but what was 
 sensible, nothing which the most sensitive 
 Briton need resent. The authority of the 
 dominant race in Egypt, continued Mr Balfour, 
 had been undermined ; the situation called for 
 prompt and decisive action. 
 
 Sir Edward Grey's speech fortunately 
 supplied the needful remedy. He admitted 
 the gravity of the case. He warned the 
 Egyptians that so long as the agitation 
 continued they would get no more self- 
 government, and that our authority would 
 
 M 
 
178 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 be asserted with more show of force. Once 
 more, as in 1906, Sir Edward Grey had allowed 
 the situation to become serious by his weak 
 tolerance of the Sentimental Anarchist view 
 that every country ought to be allowed to mis- 
 govern itself; once more he had been com- 
 pelled to put an end, by straight speaking, 
 to vague aspirations, which his weakness had 
 encouraged, — two dangers, born of Liberal 
 vagueness, that had to be pointed out forcibly 
 to him before he lifted up his voice. 
 
179 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 SIR ELDON GORST. 
 
 I wanted to drive to the British Agency one 
 morning soon after my arrival in Cairo, and had 
 some little difficulty in directing the tarbushed 
 cabman. At last he understood. " Aiwa," 
 he said, " Lord- a -Cromer," and he drove me 
 at once to the big palace down by the Nile, 
 with the green, shady garden and the exquisite 
 view over the wide, shining stream. 
 
 That cabman is by no means the only person 
 who murmurs "Lord -a -Cromer." Almost 
 every one does so — with an accent of regret. 
 It is a commonplace of observation in Egypt 
 that no one, save the Nationalists, has a good 
 word to say for Sir Eldon Gorst. I do not set 
 myself up as a critic of the British Agent. My 
 
180 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 criticism would have no value. I merely state 
 the impression left upon visitors to Egypt who 
 take the trouble to discover what is being 
 thought and said. This impression is that 
 British prestige and influence have declined 
 deplorably during the last two years. 
 
 The official view at home is that Sir Eldon 
 Gorst has been as successful as any man who 
 followed Lord Cromer could expect to be. He 
 has "kept things quiet." He is on excellent 
 terms with the Khedive, and is said to have 
 much influence over him, though I must add 
 that the Khedive's following speak of his 
 Highness as having much influence over Sir 
 Eldon Gorst! The British Agency has con- 
 tinued Lord Cromer's policy in many direc- 
 tions. The great work of irrigation goes on 
 steadily. By Mr Douglas Dunlop and his 
 excellent staff education is being pushed for- 
 ward. The General Assembly is happy be- 
 cause it has been allowed to reject the Suez 
 Canal scheme. The Nationalists are pleased 
 at the choice of a Prime Minister in sympathy 
 
SIR ELDON GOEST. 181 
 
 with their aims. That is one side of the pic- 
 ture. On the other we have such incidents 
 as the Nationalist demonstration close to the 
 Savoy Hotel, in the centre of European Cairo, 
 where a Union Jack was openly defiled and 
 trampled under foot. The comment of a 
 Cairo Frenchman upon this incident is worth 
 recording. "Voila, on a crache sur votre 
 drapeau et vous restez plante-la, mon Dieu!" 
 (Here they are spitting on your flag, yet you 
 do nothing!) 
 
 A little later Sir Eldon was hooted at the 
 Cairo railway station by a body of excitable 
 students, and no notice was taken. How far 
 are such incidents Sir Eldon Gorst's fault? 
 
 Almost every one in Egypt puts upon him 
 the whole blame. British officials are sore 
 and angry because they say they are now 
 obliged to kow-tow to native officials placed 
 on an equality with them or over their heads. 
 Egyptians who are quite ready to be loyal 
 to us so long as it pays are perplexed and 
 uneasy. Financiers are scenting trouble and 
 
182 THE NEW SPIKIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 withholding their money. There is a belief 
 rapidly gaining ground that the English will 
 shortly go. " It would be far better than the 
 present state of things if you did go," a very 
 able and wealthy member of the Syrian com- 
 munity said to me one day. He has always 
 supported British rule, and he longs for a 
 return to the old firm, progressive policy. 
 " But if you can't rule firmly," he said, " you 
 had better leave us to ourselves. We should 
 sink back into the old 'slough of despond' — 
 corruption and incompetence and sloth. But 
 we should, at any rate, know where we 
 were." 
 
 It was, no doubt, this feeling which made 
 the Copts omit to pass a vote of thanks to 
 Sir Eldon after Boutros Pasha's funeral, when 
 they formally expressed gratitude to other 
 high officials who had attended it. They 
 declare that the responsibility for the crime 
 rests upon the British Agent, who has allowed 
 the violent Nationalists more and more licence 
 to speak and write abusively and threateningly 
 
SIR ELDON GOEST. 183 
 
 of British rule and all who are in favour of it. 
 Sir Eldon Gorst's wavering course is attrib- 
 uted by some to instructions of a sentimental 
 Eadical character from Home. It certainly 
 seems difficult to reconcile otherwise the con- 
 fidence placed in the General Assembly over 
 the Suez Canal project with Sir Eldon's state- 
 ment in his 1909 Report to the Foreign Office 
 that the record of that body had not been 
 "of a nature to encourage the hopes of 
 those who looked forward to its gradually ex- 
 ercising more responsible functions." Noth- 
 ing has occurred to alter this view, yet the 
 Assembly has been permitted to exercise a 
 vastly more responsible function than any it 
 ever exercised before, and a scheme is much 
 talked of for a permanent increase in its 
 powers. But whatever pusillanimous instruc- 
 tions the Foreign Office may have sent him, 
 Sir Eldon's loss of personal prestige can be 
 no one's fault but his own. 
 
 This has come about in many ways — chiefly, 
 I imagine, because Sir Eldon is one of those 
 
184 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 very clever people who have rather a contempt 
 for doing things upon formal, ordinary lines. 
 Much has been made of his meeting the 
 Khedive's mother on her return from the 
 pilgrimage to Mecca in a cap and motor coat. 
 Taken by itself, this would have little sig- 
 nificance. But the quick Oriental observation 
 has found in numerous incidents, each quite 
 small in itself, shrewd reason for contrasting 
 the British Agent unfavourably with his pre- 
 decessor. 
 
 An Egyptian favourable to British tutelage 
 (because he has large financial interests) gave 
 me an amusing account of the difference be- 
 tween Lord Cromer's and Sir Eldon's visits to 
 the Khedive. " Lord Cromer," he said, " used 
 to send word, ' I shall come at a certain hour/ 
 At that hour all the secretaries and officials 
 got behind their desks and bent their heads 
 over their work, appearing to be very busy. 
 The Khedive would be ready to the minute, 
 rather nervous, hoping that all would be well 
 and the visit soon over. Not until it was over 
 
SIR ELDON GORST. 185 
 
 did the palace breathe freely again. Now 
 what a difference ! Sir Eldon Gorst sends 
 to inquire what time the Khedive will be 
 pleased to receive him. He enters, and finds 
 the officials lounging about, talking and laugh- 
 ing. He talks and laughs with them. Then, 
 after being kept waiting a while, he goes into 
 the Khedive, who assumes an air of conde- 
 scension. When he leaves, the palace rubs 
 its hands and chuckles, gleefully contrasting 
 the present with the past." 
 
 This is a humorous, exaggerated way of stat- 
 ing the case, but it is based on reality. The 
 effect of the change upon Egyptians hostile 
 to us is to make them chuckle too. They 
 like to see Sir Eldon Gorst stand bareheaded 
 before the Khedive. Lord Cromer, they re- 
 collect, was always asked to keep his hat 
 on, and he always did. In everything Lord 
 Cromer hedged himself about with that kind 
 of dignity and aloofness which appeal to the 
 Oriental mind. Sir Eldon, it would seem, sets 
 little store by such means. At a race meeting 
 
186 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 he was walking with a jockey who had ridden 
 one of his horses. On an English racecourse 
 no one would have taken any notice. But 
 the East is different. An Egyptian said to 
 me : " Lord Cromer would never have done 
 that. He was seldom seen at races, let alone 
 making friends with jockeys." 
 
 A prejudice, no doubt; from our point of 
 view absurd — just as absurd as the native 
 sneers at him for driving his own motor- 
 car. But prejudices must be taken into 
 account. Another remark of a character 
 equally ludicrous from our English standpoint 
 was made to me at the Heliopolis aviation 
 meeting by another native. "Look," he said 
 disdainfully, " he is talking to quite second- 
 class people." I felt inclined to laugh. But 
 the East does divide people up into first and 
 second class. It is not considered the right 
 thing for a man in Sir Eldon Gorst's position 
 to be openly familiar with any but the top 
 layer. 
 
 An explanation of Sir Eldon Gorst's favour 
 
SIR ELDON GORST. 187 
 
 to the Nationalists is offered by some who 
 say that his idea must have been to give 
 the Egyptians rope enough to hang themselves 
 with. It may be this is correct. It may be 
 that he let the extremists go farther and 
 farther, let the Assembly gabble and the news- 
 papers rage, just by way of letting the world 
 see how vain a dream this of Egyptian inde- 
 pendence is. Possibly his orders from home 
 prevented him from taking a more straight- 
 forward course. But in that case if he knew 
 such a course to be needed he would surely 
 have resigned. There is little doubt that he 
 would have been supported by the nation. He 
 could have forced the Liberal Government's 
 hand. Far better that than the dangerous 
 plan of letting the Egyptians play with fire 
 and get burnt. The mother who follows such 
 a method with her child is liable to come home 
 and find the house in a blaze. 
 
 Yet the more this explanation is pondered, 
 the more likely does it appear that Sir Eldon 
 was simply carrying out instructions. To serve 
 
188 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 a Government while disapproving of it seems 
 to run in the Gorst family. Sir John — Sir 
 Eldon's father — has been a good friend to 
 many good causes, but no one who recollects 
 his " Manipur-ing " can feel that his sense of 
 responsibility was ever very strong. As a 
 subordinate Minister under Lord Salisbury, he 
 made a positive practice of "giving the show 
 away." The same cynical, irresponsible humour 
 appears in his son. Sir Eldon is exceedingly 
 clever, but he is considered in Egypt to lack 
 the broad ability which is needed in such a 
 position as he occupies. His enjoyment of 
 paradox is indulged at the expense of his 
 reputation as a genuine statesman. It was 
 related to me with indignation in Cairo that 
 when the representative of a French house 
 having large interests in Egypt called upon 
 him after the murder of the late Egyptian 
 Prime Minister, to inquire whether the British 
 Government did not mean to adopt a stiffer 
 attitude towards the Nationalists, the British 
 Agent, lighting a cigarette, said casually: "Nous 
 
SIR ELDON GORST. 189 
 
 attendons une autre assassination" ("We are 
 waiting for some one else to be killed "). The 
 state of things in Egypt requires treatment 
 widely different from ironical humour. 
 
 In Cairo this was taken to mean that Sir 
 Eldon could not induce the Government at 
 home to be more energetic until another po- 
 litical murder had aroused them to the need 
 for stern measures. This was exactly the kind 
 of tone Sir John Gorst used to take when 
 he was in office. It is hard to believe that 
 any representative of the Empire could make 
 himself the instrument of measures which he 
 knew to be likely to cause serious trouble. 
 Yet that is what Sir Eldon Gorst appears to 
 have been doing when his proceedings are 
 compared with his reports. 
 
 The consequences were deplorable. The 
 masses in Egypt, though they would be quite 
 content to enjoy quietly their increased pro- 
 sperity if they were left alone, are sensitive 
 to agitation, especially if it has a religious 
 basis. They are also, like other Eastern 
 
190 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 peoples, peculiarly quick to notice any slack- 
 ening of authority. They worship the God 
 of Things as they are. Any well-established 
 rule can count upon their allegiance. "He 
 who marries my mother is my father," says 
 a native proverb. Egypt's British stepfathers 
 have only to show parental firmness and the 
 country will go quietly ahead. It was the 
 lack of that firmness which caused the masses 
 to be more than a little disturbed. They heard 
 rumours that British influence was coming 
 to an end. They saw "every kindness, con- 
 cession, and attention lavished on the party 
 who are clamouring for the evacuation of 
 Egypt" (to quote, not an English, but a 
 French newspaper in Cairo). Naturally the 
 effect of this was to drive the waverers who 
 wanted to be on the winning side into the 
 Nationalist ranks. 
 
 Further, the cry of Islam in danger was 
 dishonestly raised, and the latent fanaticism 
 of the Moslem called into activity. Unless 
 there had been a change of attitude towards 
 
SIR ELDON GORST. 191 
 
 the agitators there would have been bloodshed. 
 "The situation is working up," a very dis- 
 tinguished man, who knows Egypt thoroughly, 
 said to me in February 1910 — he is a friend 
 of Sir Eldon's, too, — " the situation is working 
 up to what it was before Arabi's rebellion 
 broke out." 
 
 Happily there has been a change of policy 
 at home, and the old conditions are unlikely 
 to be repeated. But the risk was too serious 
 to be run. A British administrator ought to 
 be a man of strong and high character, who 
 would far rather give up all hope of future 
 advancement than stand for a policy of which 
 in his heart he disapproves. 
 
192 
 
 CHAPTEK XVIII. 
 
 SOME ERRORS WE HAVE MADE. 
 
 " Les Anglais sont justes, mais ils ne sont pas bons." — Remark of 
 an Indian reported by Count Goblet d'Alviella. 
 
 The Rugby boy's verdict on Dr Temple — 
 "a beast, but a just beast" — is frequently 
 echoed when the English character is summed 
 up by those over whom Englishmen rule. 
 It is unfair, as all who know the ruling 
 Englishman will testify, to deny him good- 
 ness of heart. His defect is a defect of 
 manner, not of character. Yet he lays himself 
 open to the reproach very often of thought- 
 lessness. He would not deliberately hurt 
 any man's feelings, whether the man were 
 white, black, brown, or yellow. But he does 
 hurt them by not taking into account the 
 
SOME ERRORS WE HAVE MADE. 193 
 
 susceptibilities, the " honorifics " of people 
 who are different from himself. As a rule, 
 he is shy too, and keenly self-conscious, so 
 that, even when he is trying to please, 
 his effort frequently falls short from sheer 
 ineptitude. 
 
 With people in a primitive condition, such 
 as the Sudanese, we get on well. The 
 Egyptian peasant had no complaint against 
 us until the Nationalist agitation began. Our 
 trouble is with the half- educated, the partly 
 Europeanised natives of India and Egypt, who 
 imitate our dress and customs, and who think 
 that they can change the deep -worn grooves 
 of age-long mental habit by scratching on 
 pieces of paper with a pen. 
 
 Lord Cromer in his last report said he 
 thought that sympathy between English and 
 Egyptians was diminishing, and he put this 
 down to the tendency of officials to get out 
 of touch with the natives. The younger 
 among them were not, he suggested, careful 
 enough to avoid treading on Egyptian tender 
 
 N 
 
194 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 toes. Oriental processes of mind are so utterly 
 different from our own, that it is often hard 
 to make allowances for conduct which seems 
 to us unpardonable, or for behaviour which 
 causes us disgust. This is an error certainly, 
 but it is inherent in the unlikeness between 
 East and West. Sometimes, however, an 
 intolerant spirit is carried to unfortunate 
 lengths, and has deplorable results. 
 
 A recent example of this was the circulation 
 of a seditious pamphlet by an Egyptian officer, 
 who was indignant at having been turned out 
 of a dance at a famous hotel near Cairo. The 
 proprietor's attention was called to him by 
 some British officers, and he was requested 
 to leave. Shortly afterwards (one cannot 
 greatly wonder at it) he wrote and sent to 
 every member of the General Assembly a vio- 
 lent diatribe against the English, and a warn- 
 ing to the Khedive. " If the present state of 
 things be not changed," he wrote, "and 
 changed at once, nobody need be surprised 
 at seeing repeated in Egypt the events which 
 
SOME ERRORS WE HAVE MADE. 195 
 
 took place at Yildiz Kiosk during the Turkish. 
 Kevolution." For this open threat of de- 
 thronement against his prince the officer was 
 sent to prison. 
 
 "We are constantly being made to feel 
 that we are an inferior race," complained 
 Mustapha Pasha Kamel in 1906. The answer 
 to this may be, "Well, you are an inferior 
 race." The idea that all races are equal is 
 already antiquated, although it only began to 
 be held a little while before the French Kevo- 
 lution broke out. But to make people feel their 
 inferiority is both offensive and unwise. It 
 is also a pity not to fall in as far as pos- 
 sible with Eastern forms of speech, even 
 though they may seem ridiculously formal. 
 " Come here " sounds all right in English, 
 but upon Egyptian ears, accustomed to 
 " Honour me as far as here," it strikes bar- 
 barously impolite. The Egyptians do many 
 of them regard us as barbarians, because we 
 use terse direct language instead of the smooth 
 insincere punctilio of Arabic. 
 
196 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 In addition, many more consider us nuisances 
 because we regard as necessaries so many things 
 which they think they can do perfectly well 
 without. They cannot see why towns should 
 be drained, or prisoners proved guilty by 
 evidence before they can be punished. They 
 do not like fixed taxes. Municipal charges for 
 street paving and lighting seem to them to be 
 fantastic waste. This applies not so much to 
 the half-educated as to the entirely ignorant 
 but by no means foolish fellah. On the whole, 
 we have hastened slowly enough, but in some 
 directions there has been a desire to insist 
 upon a European standard which goes far 
 beyond what the native mind can patiently 
 contemplate. 
 
 In these matters soldiers are, as a rule, 
 less thoughtful than civilians. The worst 
 error we have ever made in Egypt — the 
 Denshawai affair — was, in the first instance, 
 due mainly to the officers who went out 
 shooting village pigeons, and when they 
 were surrounded by a threatening crowd of 
 
SOME ERRORS WE HAVE MADE. 197 
 
 villagers, lost their heads and behaved in a 
 manner which did little credit either to their 
 uniform or to their common-sense. It was 
 in 1906. The officers were with their regi- 
 ments on the march from Cairo to Alexandria. 
 Some notables asked them if they would 
 like to shoot, but they did not get leave 
 from the omdeh (mayor) of Denshawai. Thus 
 they disobeyed an order issued by Lord 
 Cromer to begin with. 
 
 The pigeons, which fly in such numbers 
 around Egyptian villages, nesting in the holes 
 in walls made for that purpose, are not kept 
 to be eaten or as individual property. They 
 are communal belongings, and their value lies 
 in their droppings, which are used to fertilise 
 the land. It was suggested there had been 
 some trouble the year before when British 
 officers on the march shot round about 
 Denshawai, but this was not made clear. 
 The attack may have been premeditated, but 
 the evidence did not prove it so. The whole 
 unhappy business was really due to mis- 
 
198 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 understandings and lack of coolness on both 
 sides. 
 
 The peasants were threshing corn. They 
 believe there is danger, when guns are fired, 
 of the corn being set on fire. Just after the 
 officers had begun to shoot, a threshing-floor 
 actually did burst into flames. Instantly a 
 rush was made for the shooting party. One 
 of them let his gun go off and a woman 
 was wounded. This naturally exasperated the 
 peasants still more. As no officer had sufficient 
 authority or sufficient knowledge of Arabic to 
 quiet them (it might have been done by wise 
 words firmly spoken), the countrymen set 
 upon the party and treated them very badly. 
 At last the senior officer ordered one of the 
 others to run back to camp for help. He did 
 so, and died, according to the medical evidence, 
 of heat apoplexy, caused by exertion in the 
 hot sun. For his " murder " four men were 
 hanged, and for the assaults on the other 
 officers, six more peasants were flogged and 
 sentenced to penal servitude. 
 
SOME ERRORS WE HAVE MADE. 199 
 
 It was a ghastly series of blunders from 
 beginning to end, and it would not have 
 ended as it did if Lord Cromer had been 
 in Egypt. Unfortunately he had started for 
 Home earlier than usual that year. The 
 worst feature of the affair was that it gave 
 the detractors of our rule in Egypt a useful 
 jumping - off ground for years afterwards. 
 These detractors include a few people at 
 Home, some of them members of the House 
 of Commons, and one of our errors has been 
 to allow such men to avow openly their 
 sympathy with the demand for Egyptian 
 independence. Of course no sensible person 
 attaches any importance to speeches made, for 
 example, by Mr Keir Hardie. He is an idealist 
 who really believes that the world could be 
 governed upon the lines of the Sermon on the 
 Mount. It is foolish to report his remarks, 
 since there are people simple enough to 
 think there may be something in them in 
 addition to hot air. 
 
 Similarly Mr Kettle, M.P., Mr Barnes, M.P., 
 
200 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 and Mr Hazelton, M.P., might for years discuss 
 Egypt or any other subject of which they 
 know nothing, and the effect upon the public 
 mind would be imperceptible. But Young 
 Egypt does not know this. Young Egypt is 
 misled into believing that their sympathy at a 
 Geneva Conference means the speedy realisation 
 of its hopes. They ought to have been put 
 on trial for high treason. They are dangerous. 
 Britain estimates them pretty shrewdly, but 
 the enemies of Britain, to whom they offer 
 encouragement, do not. Any member of 
 Parliament who incites Orientals to rebel 
 against the authority of Parliament, should 
 be dealt with as a rebel himself. Not to 
 recognise the need for this is to make a 
 deplorable mistake. 
 
 Closely bound up with this error is that of 
 making the Egyptian service less attractive to 
 Englishmen, and putting natives over the heads 
 of those who have borne the burden and heat 
 of the day. Many of the latter have left the 
 service since the adoption of the new policy, 
 
SOME ERRORS WE HAVE MADE. 201 
 
 put into practice by Sir Eldon Gorst, but 
 initiated by the Liberal Government with the 
 approval of Lord Cromer. Shortly after Sir 
 Eldon took office a confidential note was issued 
 to high officials, containing a list of posts which 
 were to be gradually transferred from English- 
 men to Egyptians. Seldom does one hear a 
 British official speak contentedly of the present 
 conditions of service. Very often they have 
 serious ground for complaint. Promoted 
 natives are almost always insolent and over- 
 bearing. The proverb about "a beggar on 
 horseback" came originally from the East. 
 Men who have gone out under certain con- 
 ditions are never sure that they will not find 
 these conditions suddenly altered. For ex- 
 ample, an order was issued a year or two back 
 that in several schools lectures should be given 
 in Arabic. No doubt an excellent regulation, 
 but it is very hard upon men from Oxford 
 and Cambridge to be given a short time in 
 which to learn Arabic thoroughly; failing 
 which, "others would be found to replace them." 
 
202 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 This shortsighted policy is directly due to 
 the backboneless truckling of Liberal politicians 
 to the sentimental Anarchists who declaim the 
 right of every country to misgovern itself as 
 it will. From the same cause springs the 
 tenderness we have shown towards the Arabic 
 newspapers, and the attempt Sir Eldon Gorst 
 has made to let the Khedive's Ministers rule 
 while he kept in the background. Mahomed 
 Pasha Said, who succeeded Boutros Pasha as 
 Prime Minister, needed close looking after. 
 He is an avowed Nationalist. He told me 
 frankly that he looks forward to the time 
 when the British will leave Egypt to herself, 
 although he advocates no violent measures. He 
 showed his sympathies plainly when, after the 
 suppression of Alam (Standard), which had 
 became the chief Nationalist organ in March 
 1910, he allowed the same editor to preach 
 the same doctrines and spread the same libels 
 in another print {El Shaab) exactly the same 
 character ! 
 
 Not a word did this Prime Minister of our 
 
SOME ERRORS WE HAVE MADE. 203 
 
 choice say in detestation of the crime which 
 removed his predecessor. He made not even 
 any formal reference to it. ' The Times ' rightly 
 called his silence " disgraceful." Nor did he in 
 any way express his approval of the rejecting 
 of the Suez Canal scheme. " How did it 
 come about," asked the 'Egpytian Gazette' 
 with significant emphasis, "that the entire 
 Nationalist Press were convinced that the 
 Prime Minister and his colleagues were 
 delighted at the conduct of the General 
 Assembly in throwing out the Convention ? " 
 Can it be wondered at, when men of this type 
 are given real power, that British rule falls into 
 dispute among Europeans in Egypt, and that 
 the Egyptians, seeing our grip relax, believe 
 the Occupation to be coming to an end ? 
 
 Of the errors we have made in our dealings 
 with Egypt, those of the people at Home are 
 far greater than those of the men on the spot. 
 The work done by the latter far outweighs 
 defects such as are and must be incidental to 
 all vast enterprises. The page on which our 
 
204 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 tidying-up of Egypt is recorded, is one of the 
 most splendid pages in the history of the 
 British or of any other Eace. The difficulties 
 have been enormous. We have never had a 
 free hand. Obstacles have continually littered 
 our path. Only by dogged patience, by steady 
 grind, by stolid capability, by unswerving 
 integrity, have the men, great and small, of 
 whom the Empire is proud, done their famous 
 work. If they had been permitted, they would 
 have done even more. In the Sudan, where 
 we have a free hand, and are hampered ouly by 
 want of funds, the change from chaos to order 
 has been even quicker and more complete. In 
 the next few chapters we will glance at the 
 Sudan and see what miracles British enter- 
 prise and energy have wrought there. 
 
205 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 THE SUDAN TRAIN DE LUXE. 
 
 "There is no blinking the truth that these people have not only an 
 unequalled training for governing, which begins as far back as the 
 Sixth Form of their public schools, but they have an instinct for it." 
 — Pryce Collier, England and the English. 
 
 Khartum and Omdurman ! There is a thrill 
 for every one of British blood in the very- 
 sound of the words. With their vivid memories 
 of Gordon, and the blood-stained rule of the 
 Khalifa, and the final delivery of the Sudan 
 almost eleven years ago by Kitchener's irre- 
 sistible war - machine, they are immensely 
 interesting. I never watched anything with 
 greater pleasure than the effect they had on 
 Mr Eoosevelt when he came out of the 
 jungle in March 1910 and spent three days, 
 which he declared he could never forget, in 
 
206 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Khartum. But even the quick sympathies 
 of the ex-President of the United States 
 could not respond to those associations quite 
 as do the sympathies of one who is British- 
 born. No one who is not one of us can 
 feel quite as we do about Khartum and 
 Omdurman. 
 
 On the other hand, Mr Koosevelt, looking 
 upon what has been done for the Sudan in ten 
 years, had an advantage over us. If prophets 
 have little honour in their own country, it is 
 equally true that administrators often get less 
 credit for their work among their own country- 
 men than among observers of other races. 
 How many people at Home know of the 
 marvellous progress the Sudan has made since 
 it was freed from the barbarous tyranny of 
 a sham fanatic and " tidied up " by English- 
 men? How many of the rich and leisured 
 English who go every winter to Cairo, to 
 Luxor, or to Assuan, have sufficient interest 
 in the work their countrymen are doing to 
 go on further and see for themselves the 
 
THE SUDAN TRAIN DE LUXE. 207 
 
 great tidying-up which has been accomplished, 
 and the great bases which are being laid for 
 the future of the Sudan? 
 
 English Winter Butterflies in Egypt ought 
 to be ashamed to go Home without taking 
 the trip across the desert and through the 
 country that only yesterday, as it seems, 
 was crouching and quivering under Dervish 
 terrorism, but where to-day there is protection 
 and justice and progressive prosperity under 
 the British and Egyptian flags. Even for 
 the enjoyment of the journey itself it is worth 
 doing, apart from the obligation which every 
 Briton ought to feel — to see as much as his 
 opportunities permit of the Empire and the 
 methods by which it is kept together and 
 the work it does. From Assuan to Haifa is 
 only three days by tourist steamer (the mail- 
 boats do it in thirty- eight hours), and the 
 Nile scenery through Nubia is far finer and 
 more varied than below Assuan. The Dam 
 has raised the river level for over a hundred 
 miles. For a long way above Philae the water 
 
208 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 laps against rocky cliffs, and one seems to be 
 steaming across a widespreading lake. 
 
 The most splendid ruins of Nubia's ancient 
 Temples stand quite near the river. Most im- 
 pressive of all is Abu Simbel, a vast sanctuary 
 hewn out of the solid rock, and guarded by 
 colossal figures which have greeted the sun- 
 rise with their enigmatic smiles morning after 
 morning for thirty -five centuries past. The 
 Nubian sunsets are exquisite. The after-glow 
 of gold lasts until darkness falls, and then 
 across the water lie the silvery rays of a 
 moon bright beyond belief to dwellers under 
 gloomier skies. The banks are sometimes 
 green with prosperous cultivation, sometimes 
 desolate and bare. The men are mostly away 
 in Lower Egypt, employed as servants. Their 
 families drag out a dusty existence, dependent 
 for their supplies on the trading feluccas 
 which swoop up and down the quiet reaches 
 like graceful giant birds. It must once have 
 been a fertile land, judging by the temples 
 and the struggles for its possession, but now 
 
THE SUDAN TRAIN DE LUXE. 209 
 
 most of its inhabitants are content to sow 
 their crops in the mud the river leaves as 
 it goes down after the flood. 
 
 Haifa presents itself as a line of white, 
 blue, and pink buildings, shaded on the 
 high bank by rustling lebbakh trees. Over 
 to the right is a tangle of masts and rigging, 
 where the feluccas are discharging tins of 
 Standard oil and loading with sacks of grain. 
 Behind are two or three streets of shops, 
 and then the burning desert, across which 
 comes a camel caravan snorting at the white 
 train in the trim little railway station. An 
 up-to-date train, with sleeping and dining 
 cars, with electric fans whirling coolness in 
 every compartment, and darkened glass win- 
 dows to keep off the glare. There are 
 outside shutters, too, to darken the carriages, 
 and inside shutters as well for protection 
 against the dust. But this afternoon there 
 is no dust. Straight on to the desert we go, 
 leaving the line of green which marks the 
 river on our right, and soon seeing nothing 
 
 o 
 
210 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 but a shimmering, sandy plain, stretching 
 away to far-off ranges of low violet hills. One 
 could almost imagine there the Surrey heights 
 covered with the gracious forms of trees. But 
 that is, of course, an illusion like the 
 mirages which stretch their false vistas on 
 either side. There one seems to see a cool 
 shallow expanse of water, there a palm-fringed 
 oasis. Sometimes the image of a city with 
 domes and minarets and green hanging- 
 gardens and frowning citadel is cast upon 
 the sand. The only sights to take our 
 attention away from the mirages are the 
 empty beer - bottles, pathetic emblems of 
 civilisation, which lie on each side of the 
 track almost at regular intervals for hundreds 
 of miles. 
 
 Now and again the low hills close in upon 
 us, then retreat again, leaving nothing but 
 sand ahead, nothing but sand astern, nothing 
 but sand on either side except a dark little 
 rim to the world far away on the horizon. 
 One has the feeling of being on a high 
 
THE SUDAN TRAIN DE LUXE. 211 
 
 plateau. It seems as if one must come to 
 something, as if there must be different pros- 
 pects over the edge. But there is nothing 
 to come to except the little huts of stations 
 where the unfortunate soldiers who look 
 after the line have their dreary quarters. 
 At Number Four and Number Six there are 
 wells, — the wells Kitchener dug for the men 
 who made the line. Here we take water, get- 
 ting out to stretch our legs, and looking at 
 the pathetic little gardens made in the sand. 
 Now the sun sets, and a delicious coolness 
 fans our parched bodies. The desert becomes 
 a delicate rose-colour, until suddenly it is night, 
 and the lighted train is reflected on its dark 
 surface. The desolation grows intenser. No 
 cheerful twinkling windows greet the evening, 
 telling of homes and pleasant meals and rest 
 after the labours of the day. Yet there is 
 a fascination even about this phase of the 
 journey. Leaning out, one sees a perfect dark 
 semicircle of absolutely straight horizon. We 
 seem to be rumbling along in the centre of a 
 
212 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 great round platter of blackness. It is like a 
 dream. 
 
 Tossing wakefully on my hard upper berth 
 (the only blot upon this excellent train), I 
 wake to the stars. Here is the Southern 
 Cross, shining faintly enough but still discern- 
 ible as a group unfamiliar to our northern 
 eyes. But I am gladder still to see the dawn. 
 We have got back to the river now. There 
 are green fields and palms and villages, where 
 naked black children cry unintelligible things 
 at us, and their almost naked elders tend 
 flocks of lean goats. At eight o'clock we 
 run into Atbara, and here a motley crowd in 
 dressing-gowns, pyjamas, overcoats, anything 
 or nothing almost, leap from the train and 
 scurry across to the baths erected here for 
 the refreshment of passengers — a brilliant 
 idea, which I commend to the notice of the 
 Canadian Pacific and all other long-distance 
 lines. Fresh and cheery, although a dust- 
 storm like a London fog is blotting out the 
 landscape and even the close-at-hand build- 
 
THE SUDAN TRAIN DE LUXE. 213 
 
 ings, we get back into the dining - car to 
 consume eggs - and - bacon and marmalade ! 
 All day now we have scrub on either hand, 
 sweet - scented mimosa for the most part. 
 "This country," says an American on the 
 train, "is all right." Hundreds of miles of 
 rich land, only wanting water and work to 
 make it yield plentiful harvests. But the 
 people are few and far between, and they 
 do not care for work. They are beginning to 
 care for tea, though, and they fancy them- 
 selves in clothes a little more elaborate than 
 they have been used to hitherto. They are 
 finding out, too, the pleasure of hoarding. 
 They will work in time. They are a different 
 type from the Egyptians — blacker, flatter 
 noses, thicker lips. At the stations they do 
 not ask for baksheesh. They just draw their 
 scanty wrappings about them and stare. 
 Some day their country, the Sudan, equal 
 in size to the whole of Central Europe, will 
 be one of the greatest countries in the world. 
 Even now it can boast of the only 575 miles 
 
214 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 of railroad which passes through no tunnels 
 and over only one bridge. 
 
 Late in the afternoon we are on a flat, 
 grey plain, with distant hills swimming in 
 the heat. Those hills mark the battlefield 
 of Omdurman. Then we see rows of mud 
 houses ; ahead are minarets and palms ; the 
 railway lines multiply ; we pass under a fine 
 brick arch. Eleven years ago Kitchener 
 came with horse, foot, and artillery. It is 
 because he did his work so well that we are 
 now running peacefully and comfortably 
 into Khartum Station dead on time. 
 
215 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 THE GARDEN CITY OF AFRICA. 
 
 " Take up the white man's burden — 
 Send forth the best ye breed — 
 To bind your sons to exile 
 
 To serve your captives' need ; 
 To wait in heavy harness 
 
 On fluttered folk and wild — 
 Your new-caught sullen peoples 
 Half -devil and half -child." 
 
 — Rudyard Kipling. 
 
 The visitor's first impression of the capital of 
 the Anglo-Egyptian Sudan cannot fail to be a 
 very pleasant one. He sees from the river, as 
 he steams up, a long bank of shady trees, green 
 and grateful in the heat of the March sun, with 
 here and there brilliant blossoms gleaming, 
 crimson, yellow, and mauve. Behind the trees 
 can be caught glimpses of cool verandahed 
 houses, lying back in their gardens. About the 
 
216 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 middle glistens the palace of the Governor- 
 General, with the flags of Britain and Egypt 
 floating from its roof. Out of the ruins of 
 Gordon's house this imposing emblem of British 
 dominion has sprung. It is not beautiful, but 
 it stands there, clean and solid and four-square, 
 fit emblem of the work Britain has done and is 
 doing in the Sudan — tidying up and cleaning 
 and straightening out. 
 
 Some day Khartum will be the garden city 
 of Africa. It has been laid out with that 
 view. Just now the immensely wide streets are 
 bordered only by small trees which make the 
 hot, dusty expanses of roadway seem dustier 
 and hotter by mocking the wayfarer, as if 
 a thirsty man should have a thimbleful of 
 water offered to him. But growth is rapid 
 here. Before many years are past these 
 saplings will spread their leafage wide, and 
 everywhere one will walk beneath a cool 
 canopy of whispering leaves. 
 
 At present nobody walks. The first morning 
 I was here I made a great mistake. I went 
 
THE GARDEN CITY OF AFRICA. 217 
 
 out for a stroll round to get an idea of the 
 town. Frankly I thought it was a detestable 
 place. "There is about enough here," I said, 
 "to make a decent -sized village, and they 
 have spread over an area big enough for the 
 site of a city." It was very hot. It was 
 also windy. Dust lay thick all over except 
 in the very middle of the road. I saw no 
 white people about. I came back to the 
 hotel sticky and tired and in a bad temper. 
 
 But after a cool drink in a long chair on the 
 balcony looking over the river and over the 
 great stretch of desert bounded by fascinating 
 far-off hills, I reflected and began to understand. 
 In this dry atmosphere thirst becomes a habit, 
 and it is necessary to drink often of lime juice 
 or lemonade or very light beer. As I cooled 
 off I became more reasonable. I noticed the 
 gathering of donkeys and of rickshaws drawn 
 by small ponies near the gate of the hotel on 
 the river's edge. Everybody who went out 
 took one or the other. After that morning I 
 did likewise, and I made no further complaints. 
 
218 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 There is one walk, and a very pleasant one, 
 left-handed along the river towards the point 
 where the Blue and the White Niles meet, 
 keeping each its distinctive colour for many 
 miles down, and whence the steam-ferry plies 
 to Omdurman on the farther bank. But no 
 one would dream of walking even here under 
 the palm-trees until the sun has dropped low. 
 Eides in the early morning freshness over the 
 desert sand, and lawn -tennis as soon as the 
 shadows begin to lengthen— that is how we 
 take our exercise in Khartum. 
 
 The distances would really be difficult, even 
 if the roads were not so dusty and hot. You 
 are told that some place you want to go to is 
 " at the end of the street." This means at 
 least a mile, and sometimes nearly two. Yet 
 the buildings are scattered only here and there. 
 There is but one good European shop. There 
 are bits of pavement in places, but for the most 
 part roadway and sidewalk have not yet been 
 separated. Consequently one has the sense of 
 wandering about a suburb which is still in the 
 
THE GARDEN CITY OF AFRICA. 219 
 
 builders' hands, and only just beginning to be 
 occupied. Well, for " suburb " read " city," and 
 that is perfectly true of Khartum. It has been 
 planned with an eye to the future. 
 
 " Some day," they said to themselves, these 
 far-sighted Englishmen and Scotsmen and 
 Irishmen, not forgetting Welshmen — " some 
 day this vast country will, instead of being 
 mostly desert, be covered with wheat -fields 
 and cotton -fields. Work and water will turn 
 the barren sand into one of the great producing 
 countries of the world. In that day Khartum 
 will no longer be the head place of a province 
 which is still looked upon as the Cinderella of 
 the British Empire and treated accordingly. 
 
 " It will be the capital of a rich and powerful 
 Dominion. Whether it will be fitted to play 
 this important part in the world-drama, and 
 set an example to other capitals, depends upon 
 us," said these Britons, filled with a great hope 
 and pride ; and they mapped out the place 
 accordingly. 
 
 Even in the native town away back from 
 
220 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 the river there is order and design. Passing 
 through the vast open space of Abbas Square, 
 which will in time rank as one of the finest 
 in the world, you come to the markets — rows 
 and rows of straw huts with a man or a woman 
 squatting in each, ready to chaffer interminably 
 for the eggs or tomatoes or the chickens or the 
 green stuff spread on the ground outside. As 
 you wander through, look along every street of 
 low mud houses and you will see it stretching 
 away dead straight to where the town ends on 
 the desert. For a complete contrast go over 
 to Omdurman. Eleven years ago this was still 
 the Dervish capital, the residence of the False 
 Prophet, who made his power felt over nearly 
 half Africa. It was a slave-trading centre, a 
 vast prison, where every man felt himself a 
 captive, and knew that a turn of Fortune's 
 wheel might at any time number him among 
 the victims who were hanged on high gallows 
 in the market-place every Friday to strike the 
 Khalifa's terror home to every heart. It was 
 also a vast harem, where women, raided from 
 
THE GARDEN CITY OF AFRICA. 221 
 
 many tribes, were herded together to give the 
 fanatical Baggara a foretaste of their bestial 
 Paradise. 
 
 Eleven years ago it was death or captivity, 
 almost worse than death, to any white man 
 found in the Khalifas sphere of murder, rob- 
 bery, and rape. To-day you step into a 
 steam tramway-car in Khartum, which takes 
 you to a steam -ferry; and from that again 
 you board another car and are set down in 
 the heart of this once - terrible Omdurman. 
 Even in what is still a completely native 
 rabbit-warren of a city, there are signs of the 
 tidying- up process on every side. " Police 
 Post" you see written up at frequent inter- 
 vals. " Government School," " C.M.S. Dis- 
 pensary," the placard of an English fire 
 insurance office on a storehouse, the tall, 
 spindle-shanked, but eminently soldierly 
 Sudanese sentries at the barracks, the num- 
 bered armlets which the donkey -boys must 
 wear, — all tell the same story, not of civili- 
 sation, but of straightening out. Whether 
 
222 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 in its crowded, narrow, awning-hung bazaars, 
 where you greedily seek a little shade from 
 the burning sun, or down by the river, where 
 the export trade in gum and grain is busy, 
 Omdurman seems to be still heaving a sigh 
 of relief. The people are cheerful, but there 
 is a shade of apprehension in their faces yet. 
 And here, far more than in Khartum, with 
 its English gardens and English faces, you 
 realise Why. 
 
 There are some who think our work may 
 one day be done in Egypt and the Egyptians 
 capable of walking alone in the way of honest, 
 firm government without favour or fear. But 
 in the Sudan, whatever may happen in Egypt, 
 Britain has taken up the white man's burden 
 for good. It makes one very proud of one's 
 nationality to see what has been done already 
 in the lightning-flash of ten short years. 
 
 Nowhere in the world has England been 
 better served by her sons than here in the 
 Sudan. From the Sirdar, Sir Keginald Win- 
 gate, downwards, all who have had a hand 
 
THE GARDEN CITY OF AFRICA. 223 
 
 in the great work have "made good." They 
 are a splendid set of men these soldierly- 
 Britons. We have heard much about "our 
 stupid officers." There are more in Khartum. 
 They have taken on all kinds of employments, 
 and the fruits of their labour are evident on 
 every side. But there is one man among 
 them, one to whom Khartum and the Sudan 
 owe a heavy debt of gratitude, who is not a 
 son of England by birth, though he is by 
 adoption and by choice. I mean, of course, 
 the man of whom every one in Khartum 
 speaks as " Slatin " (Sixteen), the Austrian 
 prisoner of the Mahdi, the man who, after an 
 Arabian Nights' career with enough adventure 
 in it to make him the modern d'Artagnan, 
 has settled down at last as Inspector-General 
 of the Sudan. 
 
 It was at a lawn-tennis party that I first 
 met the man who is so closely associated in 
 our minds with Omdurman and Khartum. 
 The tennis party, I must explain, is the 
 fourth of the five stages into which Khar- 
 
224 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 turn's day is divided. First stage starts 
 between five and six o'clock a.m., and con- 
 sists of a ride out into the desert. The next 
 stage, beginning after bath and breakfast, 
 is, for the men, work in their offices or bar- 
 racks, and, for the women, household duties. 
 There is no shopping for them to do. That 
 must be left to the servants (all natives 
 except the personal "maids"). But every- 
 thing that native servants do must be over- 
 looked. They are as well paid as servants 
 at home. A good cook will get £5 a- month, 
 for example. But they cannot be trusted to 
 keep a house in order as English servants can. 
 Not many officials do much after two o'clock. 
 From that hour until four English houses are 
 wrapped in slumberous silence. Those who are 
 not asleep are reading or writing. Then, at 
 about four, the place suddenly springs to life 
 again. Up to now the hot, wide, dusty streets 
 and the shady river-front have been left to the 
 natives. From four onwards there are plenty 
 of white faces and smart frocks and hats to 
 
THE GARDEN CITY OF AFRICA. 225 
 
 be seen ; plenty of men in flannels, with tennis 
 rackets, driving in neat little carts or riding 
 donkeys, or even walking after the sun has 
 gone down and the cool breeze from across 
 the river brings back one's energy with a 
 refreshing rush. 
 
 Final and fifth stage is dinner — dinner 
 under the brilliant stars which cover the deep 
 blue southern sky, at a table lit by discreetly 
 shaded lamps. There is a frank geniality 
 around Khartum dinner -tables which leaves 
 a wonderfully pleasant impression on the 
 mind. Nowhere could strangers experience 
 greater kindness, a more charming readiness 
 to make friends. It may be because we are 
 in a Mahommedan country, where hospitality is 
 a sacred duty enjoined by the Koran. It may 
 be because Khartum is favoured with particu- 
 larly attractive people as residents. Whatever 
 the reason, they are, as I can gratefully bear 
 witness, in a delightful conspiracy to give 
 their visitors a good time. It is an odd 
 experience to go out to dinner on a donkey, 
 
 P 
 
226 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 but it is even more unusual to receive such 
 warm welcomes from people one has known 
 for only a few days, and to find in a far 
 country such interesting, excellent talk. 
 
 After this long digression I return to the 
 tennis party, where I first met Sir Kudolph 
 Baron von Slatin Pasha, Inspector - General 
 of the Sudan. I had looked forward immensely 
 to making the acquaintance of this man with 
 the tragic life -history, who was so long the 
 prisoner of the Mahdi and the Khalifa in 
 that unspeakable hive of furious fanaticism, 
 Omdurman. I had pictured a man prematurely 
 old, with white hair and deep-sunken eyes, 
 haunted by dreadful memories, bowed down 
 with the weight of suffering and pain. Never 
 did any one fall into a greater mistake. There 
 came into the garden an embodiment of light- 
 hearted gaiety and kindly fun. At once he 
 began chaffing everybody with Viennese play- 
 fulness and wit. Immediately one felt the 
 charm of his personality — the charm which 
 made Gordon give him, a young Austrian 
 
THE GARDEN CITY OP AFRICA. 227 
 
 subaltern, the governorship of a province : the 
 charm which won even the distrustful Khalifa's 
 heart and greatly mitigated his conditions of 
 captivity : the charm which makes the faces of 
 all who have known him in Khartum light up, 
 whenever his name is mentioned, into a smile 
 of pleasant and grateful recollection. 
 
 Slight in figure, with a youthful step (after 
 all, he is only fifty -two), he is the life and 
 soul of Khartum's social life. Yet by his 
 reflective eye and firmly moulded chin you 
 can tell at once that this is only one side 
 of his character. I sat one morning in his 
 room at the War Office and watched him deal 
 with a long succession of natives, drawn from 
 all classes, who came, some singly, some in 
 deputations, to lay their grievances before 
 the Inspector -General. "You seem to be 
 the foster-father of the whole Sudan," I said 
 to him. "Or the maid -of- all -work," he said, 
 with a shrug and a humorous twinkle. He 
 knows the country so well, he speaks Arabic 
 so perfectly, his name has been so long familiar 
 
228 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 from Berber to the Bahr-el-Ghazal, that natur- 
 ally they like to put their cases to him. 
 
 Patiently he listens, as, in khaki uniform, he 
 sits at his big table covered with official papers. 
 Now and then he asks a pertinent question, 
 often causing his visitors to look at one an- 
 other, amazed at his acuteness. Then, after 
 hearing all they have to say (which sends 
 them away pleased and cheerful, whatever the 
 result of their visit), he tersely gives his de- 
 cision. Usually urbane and courteous, he can 
 be stern upon occasion. In one case he sus- 
 pected treachery. He rapped the table. He 
 poured out a crisp torrent of severe warning. 
 The wretched Arab he addressed went out 
 quivering. It was pretty, on the other hand, 
 to see how the applicants personally known to 
 him seized and kissed his hand, how their eyes 
 affectionately rested on his face as he talked 
 quietly and cordially, offering them good ad- 
 vice. One was a son of the Mahdi, who was 
 being given back his father's lands to culti- 
 vate. "We must help these poor fellows," 
 
THE GARDEN CITY OF AFRICA. 229 
 
 said Slatin, as he is universally called. "If 
 not, we should be as bad as the Dervishes our- 
 selves." And there is no doubt this policy 
 has an excellent effect. It is not in the 
 character of a native to seek to overthrow a 
 Government upon which his daily bread 
 depends. 
 
 In his charming, airy house, with its wide, 
 cool verandah, in the midst of a deliciously 
 green shady garden where the trim lawns and 
 exquisitely scented tropical blossoms make a 
 most attractive blend of English and equatorial 
 beauty — here Slatin entertains delightfully, 
 with a winning grace of manner which puts 
 the shyest at their ease. In the verandah 
 afterwards he will sit and talk, entirely 
 without "side," about his years in Omdur- 
 man or about the remaking of Khartum. 
 This latter has been his hobby. The town 
 owes a heavy debt to him. Eead of it as it 
 was, a heap of festering ruins, and then study 
 its bold plan, its orderly arrangements, its 
 beautiful gardens, its sanitary excellence 
 
230 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 (mosquitoes practically exterminated), its fine 
 modern hospital, where the natives have at 
 their disposal, under the able direction of 
 Dr Christopherson, the latest developments 
 of science — there is a memorial of which the 
 re-founders of Khartum may well be proud. 
 
231 
 
 CHAPTER XXL 
 
 SOME LESSONS FROM THE SUDAN. 
 
 " Some day the Sudan will be one of the greatest countries in the 
 world." — General opinion in Khartum. 
 
 I have often wondered what the Roman 
 Governors of Gaul, or Britain, or Germania 
 would have said, if it had been prophesied to 
 them that the naked savages they contemptu- 
 ously governed would some day develop into 
 the richest and most powerful nations in the 
 world. I expect they would have locked the 
 prophet up as a madman. They lacked the 
 historical sense, which is, after all, quite a 
 modern growth of the intellect. 
 
 We, on the other hand, are continually look- 
 ing forward as well as back, imagining the 
 future as well as reconstituting the past. 
 
232 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 There is nothing startling to us in the 
 thought that the Sudan may very likely 
 become as great a country as France or 
 Germany or Britain, and its people — who now 
 run almost naked and can live on a few hand- 
 fuls of grain a -day — a race skilled in all 
 civilising arts. 
 
 This, however, is but the prospect of a far-off 
 time. To attempt to hurry on the development 
 would lead to all the evils which, in nations as 
 well as individuals, attend untimely growth. 
 Britain has, it is true, done a very great deal 
 to "tidy up" the Sudan. The blight of 
 Mahdism littered it with ruins and decimated 
 its population. It stained the country once 
 more with a cruel slave-traffic. By setting up 
 the tyranny of a religious inquisition, it both 
 increased the bigotry of fanatics and made 
 the mass of the people insincere. The change 
 wrought in the eleven years which have passed 
 since the liberation of the country is, super- 
 ficially, marvellous. The population, which 
 had been pitifully reduced and checked by 
 Mahdism, is rapidly increasing. In 1909 it 
 
SOME LESSONS FROM THE SUDAN. 233 
 
 amounted to nearly two millions and a half. 
 Before the Dervish interlude of horror there 
 were 1,500,000 in Berber Province alone, 
 500,000 in the Gezira, 1,100,000 in Sennar. 
 At the reconquest these provinces numbered 
 400,000, 150,000, and 150,000. In one district 
 known to have included 800 villages not a 
 single one could be found. It has been esti- 
 mated that between seven and eight millions 
 of men, women, and children died, either in 
 warfare or of starvation, during fifteen years. 
 "I stopped at village after village in the 
 Sudan," said Mr Roosevelt in his speech at the 
 Guildhall (May 31, 1910), "and in many of 
 them I was struck by the fact that while there 
 were plenty of children they were all under 
 twelve years of age. ... In the days of 
 Mahdism it was the literal truth that in a 
 very large proportion of the communities 
 every child was either killed or died of 
 starvation and hardship." It will be long 
 before the Sudan gets back to its old popula- 
 tion mark, but it is well on the way. 
 
 Along with the checking of the ravages 
 
234 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 caused by rapine and hunger, measures of 
 development and progress have been pushed 
 forward in many directions. Order and justice 
 have been introduced. The fine new Law 
 Courts at Khartum, where native cadis in 
 their splendid robes mete out fair dealing 
 alongside of judges from England, are freely 
 used by the natives and thoroughly respected. 
 So are the local courts in provincial centres. 
 Posts and telegraphs keep up communication 
 throughout the vast extent of Sudanese terri- 
 tory, in spite of the attacks upon telegraph 
 poles of hippopotami, elephants, eagles, white 
 ants, and frogs ! Kailways are being pushed 
 forward. Under the capable direction of 
 Captain Midwinter the net profit upon the 
 railway system has risen from £52,000 in 
 1905 to £72,000 in 1909. The Nile bears on 
 its placid bosom a regular steamboat service 
 into the very heart of Africa. Port Sudan, 
 equipped with wonderfully perfect quays and 
 appliances, has been established on the Bed 
 Sea. 
 
SOME LESSONS FROM THE SUDAN. 235 
 
 Yet one must not be deceived by appear- 
 ances. It is but the face of the country which 
 has been altered. Its soul remains just what 
 it was before. We are, happily, not making 
 the mistake of trying to induce the Sudanese 
 to run before they can walk. We recognise 
 that they are, as a race, still in the stage of 
 childhood, and as children they are ruled. 
 
 Happily, they are very pleasant and in many 
 ways very intelligent children. They are a 
 finer people than the Egyptians, quicker- 
 witted, brighter - eyed, with greater curiosrty, 
 and a knack of picking up mechanical apti- 
 tudes. Both the Arabs and the black folk 
 stand straight and look one in the face as man 
 to man. They are people one instinctively 
 respects : the word " backsheesh " is scarcely 
 ever heard in the Sudan. Every man among 
 them seems to have a natural gift of speech. 
 To see the poorest arguing, with magnificent 
 gestures, their cases before the Courts (pro- 
 fessional advocates are scarcely ever employed), 
 or to hear them laying some grievance before 
 
236 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 an official in a torrent of words — and then to 
 think of the tongue-tied, hang -dog misery of 
 an English poor suitor — is to begin wondering 
 what " civilisation " really means. They are a 
 merry folk, too, fond of laughter and music and 
 the dance. A dalooka of a native regiment, 
 such as I saw one night near Omdurman, 
 reveals their susceptibility to rhythm and 
 combined movement in its most picturesque 
 light. Each tribe has its special dance -place 
 and its own particular evolutions. Torches 
 stuck in the ground make flickering splotches 
 of brilliant yellow upon the darkness. Round 
 and round shuffle the men, keeping time to the 
 thumping of drums, while the women twist 
 their supple bodies and utter their flute-like 
 cry " lu-lu-lu-lu-lu-lu-lu," with which they both 
 encourage their men to gallantry in battle and 
 joyfully greet them when they return. 
 
 They are religious, of course, but not, in their 
 ordinary state, fanatical. They have implicit 
 belief in charms and amulets. Scraps of paper 
 with sentences from the Koran scrawled upon 
 
SOME LESSONS FROM THE SUDAN. 237 
 
 them take the place of patent medicines, and I 
 have no doubt they are quite as efficacious ! 
 They are afraid of "jinns" and "afreets," and 
 with touching faith they stick little flags upon 
 the tombs of local saints to keep the demons 
 off. Their mode of living is simplicity itself. 
 They dwell mostly in mud houses, which keep 
 cool under the hottest suns, and, except among 
 the wealthy, their household belongings seldom 
 exceed a rough angareeb bedstead (ropework 
 stretched on a wooden frame) and a few pans. 
 They can live on twopence a - day without 
 feeling any hardship, and although they are 
 beginning to enjoy a few luxuries, such as tea 
 and railway travelling and gramophone music, 
 they can do without them quite well. "I do 
 not suppose," wrote Sir Eldon Gorst in a recent 
 report on a visit paid to the Sudan, " that there 
 is any part of the world in which the mass of 
 the population have fewer unsatisfied wants." 
 This, coupled with their disinclination for hard 
 work, is one of the chief reasons why there is 
 so little cultivation in the Sudan. 
 
238 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Work and water — these are the two neces- 
 saries of the country at present. Water can 
 only be got with money, and money can only 
 be got by work. The revenue is swelling 
 gradually. In 1905 it was £665,000. In 
 1909 it had risen to £1,040,000, and the deficit 
 dropped to £208,000. But it is impossible to 
 increase the proceeds of taxation much further 
 until there is a considerable raising of crops 
 more profitable than dhurra, the staple food of 
 man and beast in the Sudan, a kind of maize. 
 Efforts are made in all kinds of ways to in- 
 duce the people to reap more paying harvests. 
 Agricultural Shows, for example, are found to 
 be useful in this direction, though it takes a 
 vast deal of patience to organise and carry 
 them through. 
 
 First, there is the difficulty of persuading 
 the natives to enter their produce for exhibition. 
 Then there is the task of getting them to bring 
 it on the right day. To discover whether they 
 have really grown their exhibits themselves, 
 or bought them in the market, is the next 
 
SOME LESSONS FROM THE SUDAN. 239 
 
 problem. And then, when the prizes are 
 distributed, it is a maddening job to find the 
 prize-winners and induce them to take their 
 rewards. " Mohammed Ahmed," reads out the 
 secretary, " first prize for tomatoes," let us say. 
 Instantly there is a hue-and-cry for Mohammed 
 Ahmed, who cannot be found. Soon, however, 
 the situation is complicated by the appearance 
 of about twenty Mohammed Ahmeds (it is a 
 very common name). To decide between them 
 seems impossible. Yet somehow the impossible 
 is achieved. Even then there are often 
 difficulties still. One man at Ed Darner, for 
 instance, refused to take a prize of thirty 
 shillings for a bull he had shown. "It isn't 
 enough," he kept on saying. "The Govern- 
 ment isn't treating me fairly." He thought 
 the Government was buying his bull and only 
 paying him thirty shillings for it. It took 
 hours to get into his mind the idea and object 
 of an agricultural show. 
 
 Another obstacle in the way of getting the 
 native to work harder on the soil is the high 
 
240 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 price of labour in other directions. An un- 
 skilled labourer can earn from 18s. 6d. to 27s. 
 a-month. Seeing that his expenses are only 
 two or three shillings a-month, he can live all 
 the year on less than half a year's wages. 
 Servants are paid quite highly in the Sudan — 
 simply because there is next to no competition. 
 There is even talk of importing Chinese and 
 Portuguese, just to show the native Berberines 
 they are not indispensable. A country where 
 living is so easy can only become rich by the 
 creation of desires which apply a spur to 
 energy. The Sudanese will work hard when 
 occasion demands it. But this seldom happens 
 now that slavery exists no longer. No wonder 
 there are heard voices suggesting that "some 
 form of pressure" is required. The form of 
 pressure, however, will probably have to be 
 that of a more complicated existence and of 
 artificial needs. 
 
241 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 THE FUTURE OF THE SUDAN. 
 
 "Irrigation dominates the whole problem of the future of the 
 Sudan." — Sir William Garston in 1907. 
 
 Now as to this predicted greatness of the 
 Sudan — upon what is the prophecy based? 
 As you travel across the desert from Haifa to 
 the point where the railway rejoins the Nile at 
 Abu Hamed, you wonder how it can be hoped 
 ever to alter this trackless waste of sand. 
 Even when you run along with palm-groves 
 and green crops on the Nile side of the railway, 
 you have always to the eastward the desert 
 still. 
 
 Well, this is a "tough proposition," as an 
 American fellow-traveller of mine put it. Yet 
 even here there may some day — centuries 
 
 Q 
 
242 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 hence perhaps — be fertility and population 
 and wealth. As the ages unroll themselves, 
 climates change. The results of irrigation, 
 more crops, more trees, are already affecting 
 the weather in Egypt, making it more cloudy, 
 inducing more rain. Well, as the southern 
 Sudan develops, the same thing may happen 
 here. For it is the south and east which will 
 first begin to put the Sudan among the great 
 producing countries of the world. Far to the 
 south there is rainfall sufficient for the cultiva- 
 tion. There are forests and savannahs, and 
 swamps which will be drained and turned into 
 rich land. Nearer Khartum there is the 
 Gezira [i.e., The Island) district between the 
 Blue and the White Niles. This has been 
 described by Mr Dupuis, the head of Egyptian 
 Irrigation, as "the chief hope of the Sudan." 
 When all these southern lands are calling down 
 rain, the north will get a chance. There only 
 needs moisture to make the desert yield its 
 increase too. 
 
 But this is looking very far ahead. It will 
 
THE FUTURE OF THE SUDAN. 243 
 
 not become " practical politics " till many 
 generations have watched and wondered at the 
 gradual growth of the Sudan. For the present, 
 it is the Gezira which is the centre of effort. 
 " Only by the construction of a canal here," 
 wrote Sir William Garstin in 1907, " will it be 
 possible for the Sudan to largely increase its 
 revenue and be in a position to quickly repay 
 its debt to Egypt." Sir William Garstin may 
 split his infinitives (all great men do), but in this 
 matter of irrigation, he knows. To the same 
 effect reported Mr Dupuis not long ago. " It is 
 hard to see how, without the execution of some 
 such work the country is ever to become self- 
 supporting." Cultivation by means of sakias, 
 clumsy water-wheels turned by oxen, is not 
 increasing. The abolition of domestic slavery, 
 all at a blow, is partly responsible for this. 
 The farmer either cannot afford to employ 
 labour to replace his serfs, or, if he can afford 
 it, he cannot find people willing to be em- 
 ployed. The Sudanee does not like work at 
 at all, and the Arab, though he and his family 
 
244 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 will toil incessantly for themselves upon their 
 own plot of land, does not like working for 
 wages. Water must be brought to the farms, 
 therefore, by a system of irrigation. 
 
 Here the eternal want of pence comes in. 
 A barrage across the Blue Nile at Sennar, some 
 200 miles above Khartum, would cost at least 
 three millions. The revenue of the Sudan has 
 only just reached one million a -year. It 
 cannot even meet the ordinary everyday 
 expenses of government. Egypt, as I have 
 mentioned, has to make up the deficit by 
 an annual contribution of some £200,000 odd. 
 Side by side with the Egyptian flag in the 
 Sudan flies the Union Jack. Yet Great Britain 
 gives no help. The dam will have to be built, 
 and since many cultivators are ready to pay for 
 irrigation to the extent of one-third of their 
 crops, there can be no question about the 
 future value of it. Even by means of pumps 
 thousands of acres in Berber Province, which 
 were waste land a few years ago, are being 
 made to produce good wheat and cotton. 
 
THE FUTURE OF THE SUDAN. 245 
 
 When the raising of the Assuan Dam is com- 
 pleted in 1912, the summer allowance to the 
 Sudan — sufficient to irrigate 10,000 acres — 
 will be doubled, and the cotton-growing possi- 
 bilities will look up. Already the Sudan sends 
 cotton to market which is equal in quality to 
 the finest Delta-grown crops. Beyond question 
 the Gezira with irrigation would be one of 
 the richest regions upon earth. Three million 
 acres, now useless, could be brought under 
 cultivation eventually, and half that number 
 might be made fruitful within ten to fifteen 
 years. For the moment, however, this three 
 million pounds project must wait. 
 
 Before irrigation the land needs railways, 
 to carry off the produce when it comes. These 
 are being pushed on as fast as the purse 
 permits. Already the train takes one to Wad 
 Medani, 120 miles south of Khartum. Then 
 there are two matters of importance to be de- 
 cided ere the money problem need be faced. 
 One is the question, What can be most profit- 
 ably grown in the Gezira ? Many say cotton. 
 
246 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Certainly the Sudan can produce cotton of an 
 exceptionally fine quality. It is long-shanked, 
 and fetches a high price. In the Red Sea Pro- 
 vince the value of the Tokar crop for this year 
 is estimated at £200,000. It is difficult to in- 
 duce the natives to grow it until they are per- 
 suaded that it will bring them in a greater gain, 
 and even then they are often content with the 
 smaller return of dhurra, which is much easier 
 to raise. Yet there is no doubt that the Sudan 
 will in time, as population steadily increases 
 and life becomes less simple, compete success- 
 fully with America and India in the cotton 
 markets of the world. Whether cotton will be 
 the most suitable crop for the Gezira, however, 
 is not so certain. Sir William Gars tin thinks 
 wheat would do better. What is needed is a 
 government experimental farm on a large 
 scale, where the capabilities of the soil could 
 be thoroughly tested. Just now effort in every 
 direction is hampered by want of funds. As 
 soon as the financial tension relaxes, this ex- 
 periment will probably be made. 
 
THE FUTURE OF THE SUDAN. 247 
 
 The other matter that must be settled before 
 the damming of the Blue Nile can be under- 
 taken is the attitude of Egypt towards it. 
 Naturally she would look with extreme dis- 
 favour upon any scheme which might deprive 
 her of any of the water upon which she de- 
 pends, not merely for her prosperity, but for her 
 daily bread. Further, she is only step-mother 
 to the Sudan, and but a joint step-mother at 
 that. Her own children are inclined to be 
 jealous of her adopted family. Still Egypt 
 would gladly be free of the obligation to 
 help out the Sudan Treasury every year, 
 and would welcome repayment of the money 
 she has lent to it for various works. Show 
 her that her own water-supply will not be 
 diminished, and she would raise no permanent 
 objection to the Sennar scheme. On this 
 point Sir William Garstin has declared that 
 there is sufficient water in the Blue Nile to 
 permit irrigation of half a million acres in the 
 Gezira during the winter months without any 
 real detriment to Egypt, though in a year 
 
248 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 of poor flood the filling of the Assuan 
 Reservoir might take longer. 
 
 That is a valuable opinion. Still it only 
 relates to half a million acres instead of 
 three million, the area which the framers of 
 the scheme have in mind. But now we 
 come to another project which the Sudan has 
 in hand. This is the dredging of the "sudd" 
 reaches on the White Nile. At present 
 the channel is so encumbered by " sudd," a 
 water-weed which is disastrously prolific, that 
 much water spreads over the country instead 
 of carrying down stream. For a long dis- 
 tance there are marshes in which a great 
 deal of the flow of the river is lost. The 
 Sudan Government have determined to alter 
 this. They have begun dredging operations 
 intended to cut the " sudd " out of the main 
 channel, and let the water take its natural 
 course. This, it is estimated by the Sudan 
 Irrigation Department, will in the course of 
 years, perhaps twenty, nearly double the flow 
 of the White Nile. At all events, it will 
 
THE FUTURE OF THE SUDAN. 249 
 
 considerably increase it within a much shorter 
 time than twenty years ; and then the Sudan 
 will be in a stronger position to negotiate 
 for taking water from the Blue Nile. "We 
 have been the means," it can say to Egypt, 
 11 of sending you down more water. You 
 have more than is sufficient for your needs. 
 Now we propose to take some." Then the 
 Sudan will begin to justify the prophecy 
 that some day it will be a great country, 
 fertile, "civilised," and rich. 
 
250 
 
 CHAPTEE XXIII. 
 
 EDUCATING THE SUDANEE. 
 
 " A pledge that the memory of Gordon is still alive among us and 
 that his aspirations are at length to be realised. " — Lord Kitchener 
 in the Gordon College, Khartum. 
 
 It was curiously characteristic both of the 
 strength and the weakness of our present- 
 day ideals, that the first thing Lord Kitchener 
 thought of when he had won back the Sudan 
 from the blighting influence of Mahdism, was 
 to educate the Sudanee. 
 
 It was a noble impulse. Mr Kipling cele- 
 brated it worthily in a fine piece of verse. 
 Only a mind of rare distinction could have 
 conceived such an idea. Only a nature capable 
 of high emotion would have coupled with 
 the conception of a College in Khartum the 
 setting-up of a memorial to General Gordon, 
 
EDUCATING THE SUDANEE. 251 
 
 as a pledge that he was still remembered, 
 and that "his aspirations are at length to be 
 realised." 
 
 Beyond doubt this age will be laughed at 
 by posterity for its pathetic belief in 
 "education" as a panacea. We regard it in 
 just the manner that the street -corner quack 
 wishes the gaping crowd to regard his patent 
 medicine — as a remedy for every human ill. 
 We pin our faith to " education " as a means 
 of ensuring " progress," both terms being equally 
 vague, and, in most minds, meaningless. If 
 a certain amount of education does not give 
 such good results as were hoped for, we pre- 
 scribe larger doses. To point out facts which 
 tend to discredit the popular view that this 
 is the one thing needful, would be waste of 
 labour. It is a fetish of the time. Only by 
 the flow of years will it be swept off its 
 pedestal, then to be calmly examined and put 
 in its proper place. 
 
 When that day comes, it is possible that 
 a smile may play round the corners of 
 
252 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Posterity's lips at the recollection of Lord 
 Kitchener's sacrifice to the Fetish on the 
 morrow of his victory at Omdurman. But 
 it will only be for a moment. In the scheme 
 of the Gordon College a new note was 
 sounded. There was no bowing of the knee 
 to the Baal of Popular Fallacy. The notion 
 of the half-baked that a general smattering 
 of " knowledge," a thin coat of "culture," 
 slapped on with a sloppy brush, can be 
 counted on to work miracles, was sternly 
 refused admission. Posterity will recognise 
 this, and may perhaps even be able to point 
 to " Kitchener's School " as a pioneer along 
 the path of a new and wiser education than 
 any which prevailed in its day. 
 
 A month's stay at Khartum in the spring 
 of 1910 left me with a host of pleasant 
 memories. I like to think of the orderliness 
 of the whole place. There is nothing sug- 
 gestive of " ramrod rule," as there might 
 be in a country which is mainly under 
 military government. There is no bustle or 
 
EDUCATING THE SUDANEE. 253 
 
 flurry, in spite of the rapidity with which 
 the tidying -up process has been, and still 
 is being, pushed ahead. A quiet air of busi- 
 ness-like determination broods over the city. 
 The spirit of the British race has been at 
 work on every hand, making things shipshape 
 and regular and smooth. 
 
 I like to think of the native regiments, 
 bodies of splendid black men, looking very 
 trim in the khaki uniforms. I can see them 
 marching with springy vigour and enjoyment. 
 I can hear their bands clashing out barbaric 
 tunes with stirring effect. No wonder they 
 are a source of pride to their officers, — a fine 
 and charming set of soldier-men, who are full 
 of keenness for their work, and who at the 
 same time are establishing traditions of de- 
 lightful hospitality. 
 
 The efficiency of Posts and Telegraphs, 
 the competence of the railway department, 
 the energy of the Office of Public Works, the 
 enthusiasm for their districts and their people 
 of the men (both civilians and soldiers) who 
 
254 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 are sent far away from their fellows to ad- 
 minister distant regions only just reclaimed 
 from savagery, — all these come back to me, 
 and send a thrill of pride and admiration down 
 my spinal cord. But I am not sure that, 
 among all my memories, that of the Gordon 
 College does not stand out as the most striking 
 and the most suggestive, as the one which 
 is the most heavily laden with the promise of 
 future years. 
 
 I recollect so vividly the brilliant February 
 morning on which I paid my first visit to it, 
 riding from the hotel at the farther end of 
 the place along the whole length of the shady 
 fragrant river-front, past the officials' houses 
 in their big beautiful gardens, past the pink 
 palace glowing in the sunshine, threading a 
 way through throngs of white -robed Arabs 
 and scantily-clad Sudanese, their black bodies 
 shining and their white teeth gleaming in 
 friendly smiles. Almost the last building, 
 .close to the great bridge across which the 
 railway now runs into the city instead of 
 
EDUCATING THE SUDANEE. 255 
 
 ending up on the other side of the stream, 
 is the College, a solid impressive block, stand- 
 ing amid gardens and playing-fields. 
 
 In the big quadrangle at the back the 
 students were drawn up. They had been 
 drilling before starting the day's work. Half 
 of them were in neat blue serge suits; these 
 were the engineers, a very smart lot of boys 
 between fifteen and twenty. The rest wore 
 turbans and flowing robes. They looked 
 older, but only, I think, because their beauti- 
 ful dress gave them dignity and kept them 
 more grave, with the restful impassivity 
 of the East. These young sheikhs — sheikh 
 is a term applied to any one of good social 
 standing — were being trained to be teachers 
 and cadis (i.e., legal assistants in the native 
 religious courts). 
 
 The problem the sheikhs present is more 
 difficult to solve than that of the engineers. 
 The latter are trained chiefly by technical 
 means. The cadi and the teacher must of 
 necessity go through a literary education. 
 
256 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Now in Egypt (as in India) the results of 
 literary education have been, taking a broad 
 view, unfortunate. Its effect is in most cases 
 much the same as that of putting new wine 
 into old bottles. The mind of an Oriental 
 educated on European lines is in a ferment. 
 He has left the solid ground on which he 
 stood and plunged into a sea of fresh ideas 
 where he can find no firm foothold. He is 
 neither of the East nor of the West. He has 
 abandoned the ideas implanted in his intellect 
 by early teaching — ideas which have been 
 evolved by centuries of thought, and which, 
 therefore, are presumably suited to his environ- 
 ment. Yet he has not received in exchange any 
 complete mental equipment ; he has only picked 
 up odds and ends. He has, in consequence, 
 no settled habits of thought. His intellectual 
 processes are disjointed and gassy. He is a 
 slave to the catchword and the empty phrase. 
 
 Happily this disaster has been avoided in 
 the Sudan. When the Gordon College was 
 opened in November 1902, Lord Kitchener 
 
EDUCATING THE SUDANEE. 257 
 
 was lucky enough to have had recommended 
 to him as its first Principal a very able young 
 Scot named James Currie. In the years which 
 have elapsed Mr Currie has more than justi- 
 fied his appointment. He has been created 
 Director of Education for the whole of the 
 Sudan. He is a member of the Governor- 
 General's Council. He has made a solid, 
 lasting reputation by the excellence of his 
 administration and the soundness of his 
 views. 
 
 No man has less sympathy with the vague 
 belief in the value of education per se. He 
 realised from the beginning that teaching, 
 to be useful, must be directed to some definite 
 end. A prominent statesman, now deceased, 
 once spoke of the Gordon College in the in- 
 flated language of public discourse (employed 
 for the purpose of soothing by sound-waves 
 rather than of setting mental machinery in 
 motion) as "a great effort to break down 
 the obstacles of race, to establish the bond 
 of intellectual sympathy, and to further the 
 
 R 
 
258 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 pursuit of human culture." That is the kind 
 of soporific idealism with which public men 
 continually "dope" the public mind. So 
 far as I understand the Gordon College, it 
 attempts to do none of these things, and I 
 don't suppose this prominent statesman thought 
 for a moment that it did. He had probably 
 but a very hazy idea of its character. He 
 was indulging in the practice common to 
 Prime Ministers of "talking through his 
 hat." 
 
 Mr Currie laid it down at the outset that 
 education in the Sudan must have "a real 
 vital connection with the economic needs of 
 the country." This would be a good working 
 basis for an educational system anywhere. It 
 is especially important in the Sudan, where 
 "one of the greatest problems of Government 
 is to provide the people with daily bread." 
 The objects aimed at are, therefore — 
 
 1. To create a native artisan class. 
 
 2. To diffuse among the mass of people 
 
 enough education to enable them 
 
EDUCATING THE SUDANEE. 259 
 
 to understand the elements of the 
 machinery of Government, and to 
 protect themselves against possible 
 attempts at extortion by minor 
 officials. 
 3. To create a small class of officials who 
 can eventually undertake all the 
 clerical work in Government offices. 
 This at present is done by Egyptians, 
 who have to be attracted by rather 
 a high rate of pay. 
 Towards the attainment of these objects, 
 the Gordon College is contributing most valu- 
 able help. Indeed, without it they could 
 hardly be attained. Most interesting to the 
 visitor is the activity of the well - equipped 
 instructional workshops presented by Sir 
 William Mather. Here the boys are taught 
 to use hand and brain in unison, the finest 
 training there can be for mind and character 
 alike. From these workshops are turned out 
 expert carpenters, blacksmiths, fitters, painters, 
 turners, and foundrymen. They have no 
 
260 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 difficulty in finding employment at good 
 wages, and, so far as I could learn, their 
 services are highly valued. Even at the 
 College they turn their training to practical 
 account. They supply it with electric light 
 and water. They irrigate the grounds. When 
 I was there, they were finishing a fine piece 
 of metal-work to serve as a railing along the 
 river-front. 
 
 To watch their intelligent dark young faces, 
 as they bend over their tasks in the work- 
 shops ; to go through the spacious airy sleep- 
 ing-rooms, where many of the boys make their 
 first acquaintance with beds ; to see a class 
 sitting in rapt attention while the master ex- 
 plains some point by means of blackboard 
 diagrams ; to notice the pleasant manners and 
 the public-school-boy bearing of the students 
 in their dining-hall, or as they walk through 
 the wide, high corridors open to the air : and 
 then to recollect with a shock that twelve 
 years ago the Sudan was the most backward 
 and barbarous country in the world, is to 
 
EDUCATING THE SUDANEE. 261 
 
 realise with vivid intensity what the British 
 occupation has made possible and what the 
 Gordon College has done. 
 
 The men who will direct the labour of the 
 artisans, the Civil Engineers, have, naturally, 
 to do book-work as well, but in no case at 
 the College, or in any school in the Sudan, 
 is there any direct interference with the stu- 
 dents' general basic ideas. Indirectly, of course, 
 these may, and no doubt in many cases they 
 will, be affected. But this is an inseparable 
 feature of any system of education. Once 
 start the process of thinking and no one can 
 tell where it will leave off. 
 
 As I pointed out just now, the difficulty 
 of educating those who are to be teachers 
 and judges is greater in proportion as their 
 courses are literary rather than technical 
 They run a risk of becoming " so Europeanised 
 that they may fall permanently out of touch 
 with their environment and duties." Against 
 this, however, a determined stand is being 
 made, and with success, so far as can be 
 
262 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 seen at present. They are taught mainly 
 in Arabic. Mr Currie has wisely set his face 
 against any general instruction in English, 
 though there is a small class in which boys 
 can be trained as teachers of that language. 
 In the primary schools no attempt is made to 
 use any language but the vernacular, and the 
 pupils have to wear their native dress. Of 
 course there are people who will exclaim against 
 this, and declare that it is our duty to bestow 
 upon these poor heathen the inestimable bene- 
 fits of our civilisation. I will only ask any 
 such people who may be reading this to glance 
 over these extracts from the syllabus of the 
 moral instruction which is given in these 
 primary schools : — 
 
 Teachers should give simple instruction in right conduct, 
 illustrating their lessons by stories and examples from 
 practical life — e.g., Obedience to parents and those in auth- 
 ority, evils of disobedience, respect to elders. Bravery, 
 truthfulness, confusion caused by falsehood and lies. 
 Cleanliness. Disease caused by dirt. Simple rules of 
 sanitation, keeping one's person, clothes, house, and sur- 
 roundings clean. Love of one's neighbour. Unselfishness. 
 Gratitude. 
 
EDUCATING THE SUDANEE. 263 
 
 Religion. — Necessity of Eeligion ; not merely learning 
 doctrines and rites, but also governing conduct. The 
 moral teaching of the Koran applicable to the formation 
 of child character — e.g., the precepts that enjoin honesty, 
 truthfulness, kindness (to animals and human beings), 
 politeness, sympathy, willingness, patience, perseverance, 
 thrift, cleanliness, purity, love of parents, filial obedience, 
 love of country, &c, stories from the religious history of 
 Islam illustrating these precepts. 
 
 Could any Christian system of teaching 
 furnish forth a better scheme for the forma- 
 tion of character, or, at any rate, one so much 
 better that it would be worth while substitut- 
 ing it and running all the risks which this 
 would imply? 
 
 Clearly there is no reason why an educa- 
 tion which accepts Islam as an established fact 
 should not be thoroughly efficient and practical. 
 Here, possibly, lies the seed of the regenera- 
 tion of the Mahommedan world. It has sunk 
 deeper and deeper into lethargy and obscur- 
 antism since the Moors were driven out of 
 Europe. How heavy its intellectual stupor 
 •is we can see by the condition of Al-hazar, 
 the great Moslem University in Cairo, where 
 
264 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 it is still taught that the earth is a flat 
 surface, and that the air is inhabited by 
 countless millions of good and evil jinns ! 
 But the day of Moslem awakening may be 
 at hand. 
 
 Never certainly in any school, college, or 
 university have I breathed a more invigor- 
 ating atmosphere of keen interest in all that 
 is being thought and done throughout the 
 world. The Research Laboratories, a gener- 
 ous gift from Mr Wellcome of tabloid fame, 
 are quite admirably equipped, and really 
 valuable work is done in them. Tropical 
 diseases are tracked to their sources. Methods 
 of fighting them are tested. The products 
 of the Sudan are analysed and their full 
 uses discovered. 
 
 Here almost any day may be found work- 
 ing in his shirt -sleeves, and filling the warm 
 air with his magnificent Doric, Dr Andrew 
 Balfour, another of the great men of the 
 Sudan. It is he who has made Khartum 
 mosquito - free and, therefore, malaria - proof. 
 
EDUCATING THE SUDANEE. 265 
 
 No need there for curtains over one's bed, 
 nor for extra doors and windows of wire 
 gauze. The pestilential insect has been chased 
 out. By oiling all the stagnant waters, and 
 then inducing the Government to impose fines 
 upon all who did not have their water- vessels 
 constantly cleansed, Dr Balfour contributed 
 enormously to making Khartum a pleasant, 
 healthy town. Nor has he finished with it yet. 
 The geology and anthropology of the 
 Sudan are being systematically studied also 
 at the Gordon College. There is already a 
 most interesting museum, where relics of 
 the states of society now passing away are 
 preserved for future enlightenment. Courses of 
 lectures are given on the tribes and customs 
 of the Sudan for the benefit of officials, who 
 can thus gain some idea of primitive social 
 structures and habits of thoughts before 
 they go to districts where they will find 
 them in operation. Nor are the antiquities 
 of the Sudan forgotten, though the lack of 
 pence which afflicts the administration all 
 
266 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 round is keeping systematic work in this 
 direction rather behindhand. 
 
 When I recall this fresh, stimulating atmos- 
 phere of the Gordon College — in all parts 
 abundance of light and air — with the blue 
 river flowing before it, and its cool green 
 stretches of lawn and shrubbery behind — 
 it seems to me to be itself an image of the 
 work it has undertaken to do. "To let in 
 fresh light and air from the outside world." 
 That is how Mr Currie has defined the task 
 of the Sudan Education Department. Teach 
 the Sudanee to read and write and do easy 
 sums, and he will be able, if he chooses, to 
 free himself from those who prey upon his 
 credulity and superstition. Make any repe- 
 tition of the Mahdi's Holy War impossible 
 by implanting in the native mind a healthy 
 scepticism as to self - styled prophets being 
 able to make their followers bullet - proof, 
 to call squadrons to their assistance from 
 the clouds, or to strike a barren rock and 
 cause water to gush forth out of it. 
 
EDUCATING THE SUDANEE. 267 
 
 At the same time, take care not to fill 
 the Sudanee with windy conceptions of his 
 own self - sufficiency. Avoid any teaching 
 likely to affect him with a distaste for his 
 hereditary pursuits. Help him to keep his 
 end up and to become a more useful and 
 effective member of the society into which 
 he has been born. But do not give him 
 the idea that his ambition should be to 
 climb out of it. Above all, do not let him 
 fall victim to the flabby - minded delusion 
 that the same methods of government are 
 good for all peoples at all times. 
 
 Here, again, there will be protests raised. 
 Many will exclaim, echoing Lord Macaulay, 
 that we ought to share all our ideas and 
 our ideals with those over whom we have 
 established British rule. But let us re- 
 member that Lord Macaulay was much more 
 certain than we are of the final blessedness 
 of those ideas and ideals. He could not 
 conceive anything more perfect than a society 
 governed in accordance with the principles 
 
268 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 of Aristocratic Whiggism. The notion that 
 the wisdom of the East could be even com- 
 pared with the culture of Oxford and Cam- 
 bridge never entered his ingenuous mind. 
 We take a broader view — not, of course, 
 because we are of superior attainments, but 
 because the world has shrunk and its prob- 
 lems have come nearer to us. We have 
 been forced to realise that the Last Word of 
 human development has not yet been uttered. 
 We see that the only nations to make 
 anything like a rational use of popular repre- 
 sentative government are those which have 
 slowly evolved their systems through many 
 hundreds of years. To hand over a mode 
 of government which more or less fits us 
 to people whose antecedents have been, and 
 whose character therefore is, entirely different 
 from ours, would be as foolish as for a 
 parent to feed a child systematically from 
 his own plate. Eoast beef and beer are 
 excellent fare for grown - up people, whose 
 stomachs have gradually been fitted to deal 
 
EDUCATING THE SUDANEE. 269 
 
 with them. But they would make young 
 children very sick indeed. 
 
 In that simple yet instructive allegory, 
 read the true inwardness of the Gordon 
 College at Khartum. If only we had fol- 
 lowed these same lines in India and in 
 Egypt, from what a world of trouble should 
 we have been saved ! 
 
270 
 
 CHAPTER XXIY. 
 
 THE FUTURE. 
 
 "Her Majesty's Government . . . feel bound not to withdraw 
 from the task imposed upon them until the administration of affairs 
 has been reconstructed on a basis which will afford satisfactory guar- 
 antees for the maintenance of peace, order, and prosperity in Egypt." 
 — Lord Granville, Foreign Secretary, to Lord Dufferin, in 1882. 
 
 Egypt has suffered, in common with most 
 British enterprises, from the incapacity of 
 British Governments. It seems as if Demo- 
 cracy is bound to lead to incompetence in 
 governing, except when a man appears who 
 has an aptitude for leadership coupled with 
 a natural instinct towards order and pro- 
 gression. " Words, not deeds," might be 
 the motto of the type of politician which 
 Parliamentarism produces. 
 
 Compelled, against its will, to step vigor- 
 
THE FUTURE. 27l 
 
 ously into Egyptians affairs, the Liberal 
 Government of 1882 had but one anxiety, 
 which was to step out again. "Desiring 
 that British occupation should last for as 
 short a time as possible," they would cer- 
 tainly, if they could, have left the country 
 to some other Power (it could not be left 
 to itself), and the noble chapter in the 
 history of the British Kace, which tells how 
 Lord Cromer and his helpers made a new 
 Egypt, would never have been written. For- 
 tunately this was made impossible, but the 
 nervous declarations then offered as to the 
 shortness of our intervention have hampered 
 us ever since. Neither Party has the courage 
 to admit that circumstances alter cases. Lord 
 Granville was an amiable old gentleman of 
 very moderate attainments. It is absurd 
 that we should pretend to continue to be 
 bound by his views of the question, although 
 even his declaration, quoted at the head of 
 this chapter, supplies, at its face- value, justifi- 
 cation enough for our remaining in Egypt 
 
272 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 indefinitely. But he, of course, never con- 
 templated anything but a brief occupation. 
 His views were based upon an ingenuous 
 anxiety to avoid trouble in Europe, not upon 
 any desire to do the best for Egypt, or upon 
 any general enthusiasm for " tidying up " 
 wherever that process might be required. 
 
 It is this enthusiasm which has made 
 Britain great. Sir John Seeley's much- 
 quoted remark about the British Empire 
 being acquired " in a fit of absence of 
 mind" does not quite fit the case. If you 
 feed, brush, and comb a neglected dog, and 
 then find yourself saddled with the respon- 
 sibility of looking after him for the rest of 
 his days, you can hardly reproach yourself 
 with absent-mindedness. Your fault (if fault 
 there be) was lack of forethought, living for 
 the moment, failure to think out the con- 
 sequences of your impulse. These are emin- 
 ently British characteristics. We " do the 
 thing that's nearest" without considering 
 whither our action may lead us. In Egypt 
 
THE FUTURE. 273 
 
 it has led us into exercising a de facto Pro- 
 tectorate over a country which acknowledges 
 the suzerainty of another Power, and the 
 right of all the rest of the Powers to inter- 
 fere in its affairs. Lord Milner called it a 
 "Veiled Protectorate," and Sir Eldon Gorst, 
 in his appendix to ' England in England ' 
 (1904), said that "the veil had been removed." 
 Yet he himself has since done a great deal, 
 at the bidding of the Liberal Government, 
 to replace it. 
 
 The difficulties of such a position are 
 enormous. All the more credit to the men 
 who overcame them ! But there is no reason 
 why we should prolong them, if they can be 
 cleared out of the way. One of the greatest 
 is the continued existence of the Capitulations, 
 a set of privileges and immunities granted 
 to foreigners in Egypt in the days when 
 foreign merchants could not feel it safe to 
 live and trade there under the ordinary law 
 of the land. In Mr John H. Scott's valuable 
 work on * The Law affecting Foreigners in 
 
 s 
 
274 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Egypt' 1 the Capitulations are summarised 
 thus : — 
 
 1. The right accorded to foreigners to enter, reside, 
 
 and carry on commerce. 
 
 2. The right to practise their own religion and to 
 
 dress as they please. 
 
 3. Inviolability of domicile. 
 
 4. Exemption from taxes other than customs 
 
 dues. 
 
 5. The right to observe their own laws as to 
 
 inheritance. 
 
 6. Immunity from local jurisdiction and local 
 
 laws. 
 
 The last of these privileges is the most 
 important : it means that special courts have 
 to be maintained to try foreigners, and that 
 no law passed in Egypt can apply to foreign 
 subjects until fourteen Powers have given 
 their consent to it ! The delays and 
 vexations which result from this can be 
 imagined. A country developing rapidly is 
 in constant need of new laws, and law r s in 
 Egypt might almost as well not be passed if 
 
 1 William Green & Sons, Edinburgh, 1908, 
 
THE FUTURE. 275 
 
 the very large number of foreign residents 
 in the country remain exempt from them. 
 Yet every proposed law affecting foreign 
 residents must be submitted to an Inter- 
 national Commission. The very word "Com- 
 mission" suggests leisurely procedure, inter- 
 minable dreary discussions, results utterly 
 out of proportion to the time consumed ! 
 Other serious disadvantages arise out of the 
 Capitulations, such as the difficulty, caused 
 by the " inviolable domicile" privilege, of 
 preventing foreigners from carrying on such 
 nefarious trades as smuggling, keeping gam- 
 bliog and disorderly houses, selling adul- 
 terated drink. But the obstacle in the 
 way of legislation is by far the most 
 damaging to the country. 
 
 Five years ago Lord Cromer said in his ' 
 Annual Report that "some serious modifi- 
 cations" would be required "before long." 
 Since then the necessity has increased each 
 year. The reform of the Capitulations ought 
 
 to be taken in hand forthwith. 
 
 / 
 
276 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 Of course, if we had been able to declare 
 a legal Protectorate over Egypt ; if we gov- 
 erned it as we govern the Sudan ; these diffi- 
 culties would not exist. British justice and 
 British laws would be good enough for all 
 foreign residents. But regret is futile. We 
 have to deal with the situation as it exists. 
 How can the Powers be persuaded to give 
 up the Capitulations ? Only by the offer of 
 guarantees that foreigners will be as well 
 off under some other system. Certainly the 
 Powers would not admit that native legis- 
 lative, executive, and judicial institutions 
 gave such guarantees. But they might and 
 probably would accept the International Coun- 
 cil which Lord Cromer suggested a few years 
 ago, a council partly elected by foreign resi- 
 dents and partly nominated by the Govern- 
 ment which should have all laws relating 
 to foreigners laid before it. Obviously there 
 will be some awkwardness in the existence of 
 two consultative "Legislatures," the native 
 and the European. But opinion in Egypt 
 
THE FUTUKE. 277 
 
 favours the belief that, even so, the new plan 
 would be a vast improvement upon the Capitu- 
 lations. Patient labour succeeded in abolishing 
 the complicated and cumbrous financial system 
 set up by the Powers for the protection of 
 the Egyptian bondholders, — a system which 
 for many years hampered our efforts to 
 improve the lot of the Jellahin. To reform 
 the Capitulations would be a lighter task. 
 It ought to be undertaken without delay. 
 
 I have spoken of the damnosa hereditas 
 left by the Liberal Government of 1880-85 
 in their declarations as to the transitory na- 
 ture of our stay in Egypt. Another equally 
 embarrassing legacy was handed on by their 
 fatuous encouragement of the "Egyptian 
 self-government" cry. The self-government 
 which was demanded by the Arabists was 
 nothing but self-interest. Egyptian officers 
 wanted the good posts which went to Turkish 
 officers. The landed proprietors, rich towns- 
 people, and village sheikhs who composed the 
 Chamber of Notables, wanted to push their own 
 
278 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 advancement at the expense of the peasants, 
 to whose welfare they were either indifferent 
 or opposed. Without looking beneath the sur- 
 face people at home said, " Self-government ? 
 Certainly. A very proper demand. We govern 
 ourselves. Why shouldn't they?" Thus the 
 troubles which I have outlined in earlier 
 chapters were the direct outcome of misplaced 
 British sympathy, arising from general ignor- 
 ance of Oriental countries and from a complete 
 misconception of this particular case. 
 
 Future ages will marvel at our credulity 
 in this matter of Parliamentary institutions. 
 They will wonder how we could put such 
 faith in the panacea of self-government, just 
 as we wonder how our ancestors can have 
 believed in witchcraft and diabolism. De- 
 mocracy the whole world has known before, 
 generally to its undoing. But never in 
 earlier times has democracy been elevated 
 to the rank of a fetish, or been regarded as 
 a religion of which it is impious to deny 
 the divine origin and universal expedience. 
 
THE FUTURE. 279 
 
 It is this attitude of mind which makes the 
 government of India and of Egypt alike diffi- 
 cult at the present juncture. The idea that 
 self-government might not be good for certain 
 peoples cannot find an entrance into the 
 mass of British heads. Yet it might soon 
 do so if some of our " leading men" would 
 really lead, instead of keeping their ears to 
 the ground to try and discover which is the 
 largest crowd to follow. 
 
 What is wanted now, Egypt having once 
 again begun to settle down more quietly, is a 
 frank announcement that there is no likelihood 
 of British voluntary evacuation for a very 
 long time to come. France would raise no 
 objection. Turkey shows no desire to resume 
 the direction of Egyptian affairs. Other 
 Powers would have no ground for protest. 
 Such a statement would put the Egyptian 
 question upon a different basis altogether. 
 Young Egypt would understand that its hopes 
 of securing the spoils of office are vain. Seeing 
 that nothing but a revolution can turn the 
 
280 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 British out, the great majority of those who 
 lend countenance to Nationalist aspirations 
 (chiefly for the sake of being on the winning 
 side) would support the demand for Independ- 
 ence no longer. By all means let us introduce 
 Egyptians into the service of the state so far 
 as is compatible with good government. But 
 we ought to make it clear beyond any doubt 
 that we mean to keep the direction of affairs in 
 our hands. Our in-and-out policy of alter- 
 nately patting and punching Young Egypt, of 
 encouraging the Nationalists until they become 
 too noisy, and then suddenly discovering that 
 " we must be firm," ought to be abandoned 
 once and for all. 
 
 It is very unfair to Egypt not to make such 
 a declaration. Prosperity is reviving. Capital 
 is eager to develop the country. The New 
 Spirit makes the people more ready to encour- 
 age enterprise than they have ever been before. 
 Nothing save the absence of a sense of security 
 hinders the opening of an era of progress and 
 still greater enrichment. So long as we keep 
 
THE FUTURE. 281 
 
 up our " leaving shortly " attitude, that sense 
 of security will never come. 
 
 Sentimentalism in Egypt, based on the 
 childish pretence that all men are equal, and 
 that all nations have the right to mismanage 
 their own affairs, can only lead to anarchy. 
 Firmness will quickly turn back waverers to 
 the side of the established order, and convince 
 the disturbers that they have nothing to gain. 
 We shall have the undivided approval of 
 Europeans in Egypt (and in Europe too) as 
 soon as we grasp our nettle resolutely once 
 more. Our flaccid, nerveless handling of it 
 has resulted in our being stung. Germany 
 is ready to seize it with her mailed fist if 
 we let go our hold, and it is humiliating to 
 acknowledge that there are many in Egypt 
 who say, "The sooner the better." But our fit 
 of weakness must end now. We have played 
 long enough with fire in the foolish hope that 
 it would not burn. The dangerous sparks 
 must be trodden out. We cannot let the great 
 mass of the people of Egypt, whom our rule 
 
282 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 has made prosperous and secure in their posses- 
 sions, be sacrificed to please a small section 
 eager to assume responsibilities which they are 
 not fitted, either by temperament or training, 
 efficiently to discharge. 
 
 We need in Egypt to-day, and we shall 
 need for many years to come, just as we needed 
 it in the day of Lord Dufferin's report, the 
 "masterful hand of a Besident." We must 
 never again make the mistake we made in 1907 
 of appointing as "Eesident" (which is what 
 the "Agent" ought to amount to) a man who 
 lacks the masterful hand, who is content to try 
 and please politicians at Home instead of 
 taking the line which he and his advisers know 
 to be needful in the interests of the country 
 and the Empire at large. No masterful man 
 acquainted with the East is likely to talk yet 
 awhile about " teaching the Egyptians to 
 govern themselves," 'even at the bidding of 
 a Foreign Secretary anxious to please the 
 Sentimental Anarchists. No masterful man in 
 
THE FUTURE. 283 
 
 Egypt is likely to refuse assent to the following 
 propositions : — 
 
 1. The people are not fit for self-govern- 
 
 ment. 
 
 2. Their history being what it is, they are 
 
 not likely to develop self-governing 
 aptitudes for some centuries. 
 
 3. The agitation for self-government is 
 
 kept up by quite a small class of half- 
 Europeanised natives. 
 
 4. If Britain left the Egyptians to their 
 
 own devices, they would speedily be 
 taken in hand either by Germany or 
 the Turks. 
 
 5. The way to keep the country prosperous 
 
 and contented is to govern it firmly 
 
 and justly, as we governed it from 
 
 1882 till 1908. 
 
 Discussing our position in India, an able 
 
 Frenchman wrote not long ago : " The question 
 
 is not whether Britain has a right to keep 
 
 India, but, rather, has she the right to leave 
 
284 THE NEW SPIRIT IN EGYPT. 
 
 it?" 1 That is the question in Egypt also. 
 Have we a right to leave it to the Egyptians ? 
 The voices of all who have interests in Egypt, of 
 all who understand its history, of all who have 
 studied its people, unanimously answer " No." 
 
 1 M. Paul Boeu : ' L'Inde et le Problkme Indienne.' 
 
 THE END. 
 
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