UC-NRLF B 3 135 flbS LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. OK MRS. MARTHA E. HALLIDIE. Class SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS VERTICAL ENGINE OF FIVE HORSE-POWER. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS A MANUAL OF CONCISE AND SPECIFIC DIRECTIONS FOR THE CON- STRUCTION OF SMALL STEAM ENGINES AND BOILERS OF MODERN TYPES, FROM FIVE HORSE POWER DOWN TO MODEL SIZES, FOR AMATEURS AND OTHERS INTERESTED IN SUCH WORK. BY F 5 . WATSON. Late Editor and Proprietor of The Engineer. AUTHOR OF "MODERN PRACTICE," "MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE," " How TO RUN ENGINES AND BOILERS," " THE PROFESSOR IN THE MACHINE SHOP," ETC., ETC. Illustrated by jo Full Page Working Dimensioned Drawings^ NEW YORK D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. 1899 HALLIDIE COPYRIGHT, 1899, BY D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. C. J. PETERS & SON, TYPOGRAPHERS, BOSTON. PREFACE. THE intention of the author in writing this work has been to furnish specific directions and correct dimensioned plans for small engines and boilers, used either for pleasure or power purposes, in lieu of sketches and gossip about such machines. It has been assumed that those who need a guide of. this kind have some acquaintance with ordinary machine work, and the usual facilities for it, if even but a small lathe and a vice-bench ; with this out- fit a great deal may be done. The boilers shown will do a great deal of work for their superficial dimensions, if properly man- aged. They have ample grates and heating surfaces, and will maintain a steady evaporation continuously with good fuel and management. The work also contains hints upon lathe-work, vice-work, and finishing metals, which it is believed 98890 VI PREFACE. will be of service to those who have had but a limited experience. High expansion engines have not been treated, for the reason that they are beyond the mechani- cal and engineering experience of the majority of persons who will purchase a work of this char- acter. TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE Introductory; Illustration of Vertical Engine .... 1-3 CHAPTER II. Drawings. Example of Skeleton Drawing. Explanation of Methods used to design engines 4-10 CHAPTER III. Plans for Vertical Engine of 3" by 4" Cylinder. Illustra- tion of Small Vertical Engine of f" Cylinder by i" Stroke; View of Horizontal Engine 11-17 CHAPTER IV. Discursive as to Ways and Means of doing Work ; the Best Tools for the Purpose and Methods employed by Practical Men to produce Certain Results . . . 18-22 CHAPTER V. Engine Details. Figured Plans for Various Members of Launch Engine 3" by 4". Concise Directions for Completing Each Part in Full 23-32 CHAPTER VI. Further Details. Discussion of Ways and Means, and the Fitting-up of Cross-head, Connecting-rod, Crank- disk, and Eccentrics 33~4O viii TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. PAGE The Link Motion and How to Construct it. Remarks upon its Functions and Operation. Reverse Gear and Piston Construction 41-48 CHAPTER VIII. The Bed-plate Illustrated and Remarks upon the Neces- sity of Accurate Execution of Certain Portions of the Engine 49~5* CHAPTER IX. Plans for Valve-stem, Stuffing-box, and Connecting-rod. Careful Fitting of Certain Details enjoined. Return Crank Valve Motion 5 2 ~57 CHAPTER X. The Horizontal Engine and How to Build it. Full Fig- ured Dimensions of the Principal Details with In- structions How to execute Them. Consideration of the Eccentric, Bed-plate, Pillow-block, Connecting- rod, and Cross-head 58-83 CHAPTER XL Setting Eccentrics. Detailed Explanation of the Process. The Link Motion continued and discussed in Fuller Detail. Various Kinds of Machine Finish, Solder- ing, and Brazing 84-96 CHAPTER XII. Discussion of Boilers and Figured Plans for Small Pow- ers. Vertical Boilers of One-horse Power. Rule for Bursting-pressure of Boiler-shells ; Tubes and Heating Surfaces ; Water-tube Boilers .... 97-108 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS CHAPTER I. THE difference between amateur work of all kinds and that of expert workmen is to be found in its lack of finish, disproportion in sizes, and haste in assemblin-g it. These are common faults ; and since they are easily remedied there is no reason why they should not be, if the directions given in this volume are carefully followed. Lack of finish is sometimes caused by want of the proper agents, files, polishing materials, etc. ; but as these are easily obtainable in all parts of the country by mail from the larger cities, there is no excuse for being in want of them ; the several mediums employed will be enumerated in the proper place. Disproportion in sizes is easily avoided by considering the work done by the de- tail to be made and the material employed in its construction, allowing a large margin for safety against accidental strains. For example : *the cylinder of a steam engine is always of cast-iron, or, in model engines, it is sometimes of brass to avoid rusting when idle 2 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. and to impart elegance of appearance ; it does not require to be of great thickness, even. for very high pressures. I have seen steam fire-engines worked at 200 pounds per square inch having 6- inch cylinders only i of i inch thick ; the heads being of the same thickness. No accident ever occurred to them. The same cylinder in a station- ary engine would be i inch, or I of i inch, thick to allow for re-boring ; but the first-mentioned cylin- der was entirely within the limits of safety. In model engines it is quite common to make a cyl- inder of 2 inches diameter i of an inch thick, for the assumed reason that it is easier to make a sound casting of the proper temper for machining than one that is lighter. These considerations hold good in practice, but there is nothing to pre- vent such a cylinder being bored out so as to leave it only tV of an inch thick ; the result being that the machine as a whole is lighter and not im- o paired as to its duty. Haste in assembling or putting machines to- gether is inexcusable for an amateur, who is sup- posed to have plenty of time at his command ; and it arises from a desire to see how the machine will look when it is put together, but, as a conse- quence, it looks badly. Parts are shoved together anyhow, in line or out of line, and hastily connected before they are half finished, so that an expert workman can tell at a glance that a 'prentice hand did the work. I have alluded to these common errors in ama- SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 3 teur work for the reason that it is requisite to know what not to do as well as what must be done in order to get out a creditable piece of work ; and surely if a thing is worth doing at all it is worth doing well. Of all things amateurs should avoid makeshift methods, such as soft soldering parts together that should be bolted and screwed fast, or using bent wires or parts not turned true where it is necessary to use connections. Soldering is a tinker's job, and belongs to pots and pans, not to machine-work with any pretence to accuracy and durability. We can make an alleged steam engine out of sheet-brass and tin soldered to- gether with wires for connections ; but the time spent upon such work is wasted, for the job com- plete is not worth a moment's notice. It will not stand any pressure at all or do any work, whereas, if the amateur follows the instructions in this book, he will have an engine and a boiler that will do a good deal of work, even to driving quite a number of tools, or a boat 20 feet long, which will carry a dozen people. Such an engine would seem to be outside the pale of amateur work, but this is not the case ; for it weighs complete but 90 pounds, and no detail is beyond the capacity of a lathe that will swing 6 inches over the ways and take 24 inches between centres. Complete figured drawings appear farther on for this engine, as also the way to make a drawing for any engine or machine. CHAPTER II. DRAWINGS. AN amateur should never make any machine without a drawing of some kind, showing all the connections, the lengths of them, and where they come or are attached. For want of this very necessary preliminary he may find that he has to either rebuild or else cut away parts that interfere, not only doing the work twice over, but making a botched job after all ; for any work that is not designed properly on the start never comes right at the end if it ever has an end. It is not necessary to show every bolt and nut in such a drawing ; but it is necessary to show every connection, the frame, and the lengths and widths of the steam gear, such as the valve and valve chest, the ports, eccentrics, and rocker arms, if any are used, pillow-blocks and shaft, crank and fly wheel, etc. When this is done the ama- teur can go ahead, secure in the knowledge that he will have a good job if the work is properly executed, and that he will not have to do any of , the work twice. Such drawings are called skele- ton drawings, and are used in some of the largest shops in the country. Fig. i shows such a draw- SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Fig, i, SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Fig, a, SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. J ing in its incipiency. The first thing is to draw the centre and base lines. Suppose we mean to make a vertical engine of any size 2-inch cylin- der by 3- or 4-inch stroke ; then we draw the centre line A, which shows the centre of the cylinder, and at the bottom the base B, which shows the bed-plate top. We have, of course, determined previously just what dimensions we intend to use, and figured all the lengths, so that we know what height the engine will be. For example : the cylinder is to have 2-inch bore, by 3-inch stroke, the piston is to be I of i inch thick, and the steam ports \ of i inch wide, the cylinder-flanges are to be T 3 ir thick each ; then the length of the cylinder would be : top flange tV, upper port i 5 ?, including piston clearance, pis- ton f of i inch, and stroke 3 inches ; bottom port tV, including clearance, and bottom flange tV ; the cylinder top and head is the same thick- ness as the flanges ; and the stuffing-box is i inch, including the gland when in its working position. Now add all these together, and we have the net length of the cylinder complete, to wit : 5^ inches over flanges, and 6i inches over stuffing- box gland screwed home. We mark these sev- eral dimensions (not in detail, but in gross as on the skeleton drawing). Whatever clearance is needed between the cross-head and the gland say half an inch is then marked, and the length of the cross-head jaws, say 2 inches. Right in the centre of this, we draw a circle for the wrist- 8 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. pin so-called ; and from that we .pleasure the length of the connecting rod, usually, three times the piston stroke, say 9 inches. This also gives the centre of the shaft-bearing or pillow-block when the piston is at half-stroke. Adding these distances we find a certain length over all, to which must again be added the depth of the pillow block, measured from the centre of the shaft to the bottom. This gives the total height of the engine over all, from top of cylinder head to top of bed- plate, but not the height of the frame, for that depends upon what sort of a connection is used to support the cylinder. Suppose a bracket to be cast on the cylinder at D, then the height of the frame would be from the under side of the bracket to the top of the becl-plate and is easily arrived at. This is briefly the method of getting the main lengths, but has nothing to do with the details of the engine itself, and must not be confounded with them or with the drawing, Fig. i, which is referred to as an example only. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. ^ 2} i * i y* - ^ n '-- - > I i i ! -L * if 1 i 4 h "^ ''_'. Fig. 3. FRAME OF LAUNCH ENGWE, 3" x 4". 10 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 4. BACK LEG OF FRAME, 3" X 4". CHAPTER III. THE plan mentioned having been followed, we are then ready to design details, and the cylinder naturally comes first : it is shown marked fin- ished sizes, Figs. 40 and 5, and, as will be seen, is for a model engine of 3-inch cylinder by 4-inch stroke. This engine will easily develop 5-horse power at 800 revolutions per minute, which its short stroke enables it to attain readily. For such speeds the ports must be large and the exhaust free, so as to avoid back pressure on the piston ; a suitable boiler for this engine will be shown in the chapters devoted to boilers. We proceed to draw the cylinder by erecting the centre and base lines as before mentioned ; and in this view we need two centre-lines to de- velop it, as shown in A and B. The several dimensions alluded to in the second chapter are laid off in their order, and the sizes marked upon them. The bracket D is for the head of the frame or cylinder support. The cylinder will re- quire two views, as shown in Fig. 4^, and the designer can adopt those shown or make any others for himself. All other details for this engine are shown in the several figures following. Another style of ii 12 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Fig. 4a. CYLINDER-PLAN AND SECTION. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. vertical engine which is much simpler and easier to make is shown in the illustration. Fig. 6 This engine is wholly brass, except the columns which are of iron ; even they can be made of brass if preferred. The cylinder of this engine is only I of i inch bore, by i inch stroke, and weighs Fig. 5. END VIEW OF CYLINDER. but i pound. It has, however, driven a small torpedo boat, 4 feet long by 6 inches wide, at the rate of 3 miles per hour with oil fuel under the boiler ; this latter will be shown in the chap- SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Fig. 6. SMALL VERTICAL ENGINE. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 15 ters devoted to boilers. There are no figured dimensions on this engine, so the maker is left to follow his own ideas in regard to them. As may be seen, the columns are turned all over, and threaded for nuts at each end. The holes in the bed-plate and entablature are no larger than the thread, so that the latter fits tightly in them, and the several plates are made of sheet-brass, highly polished. The screws in the cylinder-head and steam-chest covers have screw-driver heads, and the piston is solid, with no packing whatever ; it merely fits the cylinder tightly. The steam-pipe is tV bore, and the steam-ports are iV wide by 1 long. The slide valve has uV lap over the ports, each end, and the exhaust-port is i of i inch wide. With such minute dimensions as these it is not possible to cast the ports in, so the whole cylinder is cast solid, and bored out in the lathe. The ports are made by drilling in the end of the cyl- inder at the proper place and on the valve face, and the metal between the holes cut out with a small drift. It cannot be said of such engines that they are of any particular use ; but they serve as studies in small work and close fitting, for as this en- gine makes some 2,000 revolutions per minute, it must be well made to stand the racket. The entire height of it is 8 inches, and width of base 3^ inches. Horizontal engines are shown, as a type of modern engines, in the plates to follow, which can be made of any dimensions to suit the i6 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 17 views of the maker. The bed-plate is cast in one piece, faced in the lathe on the end where the cylinder is fastened, and has a single eccen- tric directly connected to the valve-stem without any rocker arm. A good proportion for it is to make the cylinder i\ inch diameter by 3 inches stroke, ports T\ wide by i inch long, exhaust- port I wide by i inch long, and lap of valve i on each end. The eccentric should have & throw, have a hole \ inch diameter for the shaft, and be 1 2 inch diameter over all, with a groove, I of an inch wide by iV deep ; the straps for the eccentric should be of brass. A more elaborate plan with figured dimensions is shown on page 6i,.et seq. CHAPTER IV. TORPEDO-BOAT engines, so called, are simply vertical engines of the type shown in Fig. 6, being very light and driven at very high speed as to revolutions. There are no other peculiarities about them. They are all steel as to the connec- tions ; and the shafts, piston-rods, and connecting- rods are hollow to reduce the weight of them, and, it is needless to say, are built in the very best manner. Of course there are innumerable other classes of engines in use to some extent, but those shown are the principal ones. Oscillating en- gines are no longer used for any purpose, except here and there for small pumps or other special work. Neither are vibrating engines, so-called, which have a piston like a door swinging on its hinges, or square cylinder engines, which consist of two rectangular pistons (one inside the other), moving in a square cast-iron box. I do not show these engines ; for they are in the nature of freaks, and are of no particular interest when made. Nothing is to be seen externally except square or round cast-iron boxes, without any finish or moving parts. The same is true of the rotary engine. It is merely a more or less com- 18 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 19 plicated wheel (or piston) revolved by steam in a cylindrical case, and takes a lot of steam to run it. That is why it is not in use. Now having shown several types of modern engines, or those in daily use doing the work of the world, let us look at the methods used to pro- duce them. The drawings are the first thing, and these have been mentioned, but after the drawings c^ come the patterns for the castings. These can be made by amateurs with ample time and facilities, but, as a rule, they should not be attempted ; for they involve special knowledge as to facility of moulding them, and fine finish to produce smooth castings. Moreover, the patterns for model work are so small that they will cost very little, and it is better in all cases to get them made by reg- ular pattern-makers. A steam-cylinder with cored ports cannot be made* by amateurs, and must be got from men skilled in the business. For very small work no patterns are needed, for much of it can be cut out of the solid quite as quickly as from a casting. The next thing to be considered is the tools to be used, and this is an important matter. It is quite useless to undertake to do good work with- out the proper tools, sharp files, reamers, and screw-cutting tools. These last are now made so cheaply, and with such excellent threads and dies, that no amateur should be without a set. Where it can be avoided there is no need of cut- ting a thread in the lathe, for small rods are very 2O SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. hard to handle in this way. But a few years ago there was nothing better to be had than a Stubbs's jam-plate, so-called, because it made a thread by pushing or jamming the metal in ridges ahead of it ; but the modern screw-sets cut long shavings out of the metal as they advance, and are far better and quicker for amateurs than threads cut with a tool in a lathe. Lathes themselves vary greatly, and some are not worth the room they occupy. Where money is no object there is no excuse for having a bad lathe ; and while they can be bought for almost any price (foot-power lathes are alluded to), it is better to get a modern lathe of the Pratt and Whitney, or Gisholt Machine Company's make than a mere trap which never by any chance turns anything the same size for three consecutive inches. Cheap lathes cost about $60, those with slide rests, so-called, and screw-cutting gear, but a good reliable tool will cost from $150 to $250; but it is complete in all parts, with many extra fixtures for doing work not belonging to lathes usually, such as milling, gear-cutting, angle- plates for facing, etc., and is well worth the extra cost. Some of the better class of lathes are fitted with small countershafts carried on standards set in the top of the table, so as to drive special cutters or emery wheels for surface grinding. For ambitious amateurs these are the tools to buy ; although it is not to be denied that good work can be done on cheap lathes if men are skilful, SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 21 and are willing to spend the extra time required. When it is considered that one buys such a tool for a lifetime it is better to have a good one than a bad one. To dilate further upon the work that it is possi- ble to do in a lathe, we may instance the plane sur- face of the valve seat of an engine, and any flat surface usually executed in a shaper or planer, or else slowly and laboriously removed by chipping and filing. The cylinder of the engine alluded to is 3^ inches from the centre in its widest part, so it will not swing on what is called a 6-inch lathe ; but few lathes are as small as this, and if the owner of one has no better means of doing the work in question, he can raise the head and put half an inch of wood under it, lengthening the belt temporarily. Supposing, however, that the lathe will swing it, the cylinder is chucked on the face- plate, or in any way that will hold it, with the valve seat out ; it can then be faced fair and true the the same as any other flat surface. The steam- ports should be filled with strips of wood to keep the tool from gouging or jumping in. The seat for the steam-chest, which is lower than the valve face, can be squared for a short distance so as to indicate the depth, the rest of the metal being removed by filing. Face-plates are very essential tools, and these can be made in a lathe easily, up to the full diam- eter that the lathe will swing. Get a couple of cast-iron disks, made as large as are needed, j inch 22 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. thick. Have them cast the face side down so that they will be without blow-holes, and also have a projection on the back i inch deep by 3 inches diameter. This is handy to chuck them in the lathe by, and convenient for use on vice-work. Turn these disks all over to remove the outer skin, and when the working or true face is dressed off rub chalk all over it, and hold a straight edge on it when running slowly in the lathe. This will show at once whether the plate is concave or convex, and the workman must rectify it if needed. Now make another plate in the same way, and hav- ing trued both so that they are fair all over, put a little flour emery and oil on the faces and grind them together. This will give dead-true surfaces, and be available for any piece of work that is required to be an exact plane. The tasks of the amateur are materially lessened and increased accuracy assured by the infinite variety of small tools, gauges, drills, scales, etc., which abound in tool stores, and every one en- gaged in machine work should have a full outfit of them. It is useless to try to make them with the same accuracy that can be found in those purchased. CHAPTER V. THE ENGINE DETAILS. WHEN getting castings for an engine, don't take them to the nearest foundry that makes any kind of castings, but send them to some concern that makes a specialty of small machine-castings. If a contrary course is pursued one is very likely to get hard iron, full of scabs and with bad faces on them. One concern will make castings for 4 cents per pound while the other will charge 10 or more cents, but the latter is much the cheapest in the end. Now, suppose we have the castings all in hand and ready for machine, we naturally take the cylin- der first because there is a good deal of work to be done on it. Chuck it in the lathe by the flange, and face off the opposite flange. Then take it out, and turn the other flange out and face that. If the cylinder has been well cast, and the pattern properly made, there will be about tV of an inch to bore out of it. Run one heavy cut through it to within yV of the proper size, and see if there are any blow-holes in it. If there are, and scabby places besides, caused by the core not being properly vented, condemn the casting at 23 24 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. once. Do not try to fill the holes up with lead or anything else, for it will be sure to come out when steam is let on. A bad casting cannot be made sound with putty. If the surfaces are all correct, try the bore to see if it is parallel. Some lathes bore largest on the outside of a hole and some on the inside or bottom ; this is caused by the lathe-head (or spindle) not being true with the ways, and can be easily cured by putting slips of paper on the ways under the lathe-head where it is needed to square it with the ways on the bed. This should be done before the last cut is taken out, and when the bore is verified the last cut needed to bring the cylinder to size should be made. Do not change the position of the tool in any way after taking the cut, but bring it out, and let it run through again on a quicker speed to scrape the surface over. It must be borne in mind that boring a cylinder is a continuous opera- tion. The lathe must not be stopped on a cut in the middle of the cylinder and started again, for that will make a ridge in it. Having the cylinder properly bored, counter- bore it, as shown by the drawing, T V of an inch below the upper end of the steam-port. Do not make the mistake that some do, and counterbore to the bottom of the steam-port, for that will make the piston leak badly. The piston travels to within yV of an inch of the cylinder-head, conse- quently it travels over the port ; if the upper end is counterbored to the bottom of the port that SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 25 takes away the bearing of the piston at a very important part. The bottom of the cylinder must also be counterbored, and it can easily be done from the front end. The cylinder-flange must now be turned exter- nally to the right size, and the end of the steam- chest also faced. It will be seen, page 53, the lower head of this cylinder is very small, and where it enters the cylinder is only ii inches diameter. This hole must of course be bored at the same time that the cylinder is ; for the piston-rod goes through it, and it must be true with the cylinder- bore. While the cylinder is in the chuck, take a boring- tool with a square nose about i of an inch wide, and trim off the edges of the steam-port where it enters the bore. In all these operations go slow, but go sure. Do not attempt to hurry anything beyond its proper speed. Do not spring the cylinder by screw- ing it up hard in the chuck-jaws, and be absolutely certain that the chuck is true on its faces, if the work bears on the jaws of the chuck. If the chuck is not true, trouble will be experienced when the engine is put together. The flanges will be out of parallelism, and every job done on the lathe will be wrong and hard to locate as to the cause of the difficulty. The bracket on the side for the support of the cylinder must be faced off on the bottom side before the cylinder is removed from the chuck after boring ; and, as the cylinder cannot be re- 26 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. volved completely in the lathe, the belt must be thrown off, and the face-plate revolved, or oscil- lated, by hand, running the tool in as far as possi- ble, and chipping- and scraping the surface true where the lathe-tool does not reach. This detail is important, for if it is not well done the cylinder will not stand square with the guides without a great deal of trouble to make it so. Now, having the cylinder bored, faced, and turned on its flanges, chuck it so that the valve- face is out, and true that up as explained a few pages back. Possibly the universal chuck will not take the cylinder, owing to the flanges and pro- jections being in the way of the jaws, in which case it must be chucked on the face-plate, and supported by blocks so that it will be firm. If the lathe is large enough a small angle-plate can be put on the face-plate, and a bolt run through the cylinder-bore to hold it. The exhaust-nozzle must be similarly dealt with, for this has not been cored out by the pattern- maker, but has been left solid. The cylinder must be chucked with the nozzle-end out, and a drill run in as far as it is safe to go, taking care not to run into the cylinder walls. There will then be left a blank end which has to be drilled and chipped out to meet the exhaust-port in the cylinder. This can be done after the cylinder is removed from the lathe. The size of the exhaust-pipe is ? of an inch inside, and the nozzle must be threaded for the steam fittings of this size. This thread has to be SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Valve Stem cut in the lathe ; a pipe tap will not enter the full size, for the hole is not deep enough. The cylin- der-heads are straight-away jobs, as to the upper one, which is common turning. The lower head has the piston-rod running through it, and should be chucked with the stuf- fing-box in toward the face-plate. The hole for the rod is then bored, and the head faced and turned to fit the hole in the cylinder-bottom. It may then be put on an arbor and threaded for the stuffing-box gland, turned and finished all over, and then, taken off the arbor, re-chucked, and the recess for the packing bored out, truincr the head o by the outer flange. The steam-chest can now be put in the lathe and faced off on both sides, and turned on the end. The stuffincr-box is o screwed into the end of in that way the chest, and is more easily made than if it were cast on solid. It should be said here, that matters should be so arranged that all the lathe work can be done 28 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. at one time, instead of breaking off and going at the other fittings, if dispatch is any object. The details will then be ready for- fitting and for drill- ing without unnecessary delay. In fitting on the heads, and all details where SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 20 bolts go through two parts, both pieces should be drilled together. Sometimes clamps have to be Employed for this work, in others one or two holes ^an be drilled first, bolts put in of the right size and screwed up, then the other holes drilled. V i fori ^ LJ i Cast Iron > In selecting drills for tapped holes, take a drill that will just fill the screw-die without shake, then the thread will be full. For steel it should be a trifle larger than for cast-iron or brass, for the steel is tough, and taps are apt to break if the holes are too small. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. x ^3%-"- -Bottonr-of-Ghest ^ SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 31 In drilling all holes that are blind, that is, are not through holes, look out and not go too far ; measure the exact depth of the hole, and make a slight mark on the drill shank as a guide in drilling. In making bolts for studs that are to be screwed in get " Bessemer rods," so-called, which is very soft machine steel ; never use common iron wire for this purpose. Cut all bolts to the right lengths, and round the ends over, holding them in the chuck while cutting the threads on the ends. It is unnecessary to make hexagon nuts nowa- days, as they can be had in tool stores down to tV of an inch in diameter. Stove bolts for ordi- nary common work, where parts out of sight are merely held together, can be bought very cheaply, down to i of an inch ; they come in all shapes nearly, button head and countersink, and are very handy for general work. This is also true of machine screws, so-called. They come in all sizes, both brass and iron, with heads of all shapes, and fit standard size threads ; not always do they fit the taps however. In the foregoing directions, it is understood that reference is made to the launch engine, Figs, i, 2, and 3, and apply to it wholly; but in so far as general work or execution of work is concerned they apply to any other engine, or to any other machine which has similar details. It may be remarked also, as a truism, that all machine work under heavy strains, especially where reciprocat- ^ OF THE ' r ^\ UNlVERSltY &HfQ^' 32 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. ing, or vibrating, or high rotary speeds are involved must be " iron and iron," so called, as to contact of parts. No "liners" or false strips of metal of any kind must be interposed, and there must not be any false holes either. Every hole drilled in two parts that are one part in the end must be diametrically opposite the other. Absolute integ- rity must prevail or the work is worthless when done. CHAPTER VI. FURTHER DETAILS. IT will be observed that the frame of the engine is squared top and bottom, and this can be done by chipping and filing ; but it is wiser to take it to a machine shop and have it planed, where such facilities exist, for it and the guides must be square with each other. In this engine, and all small engines in fact, the design must be so arranged as to the machine work that it is certain to be square without lining up. It is impossible to line up small .engines of 3-inch bore and under, for the parts are inacces- sible, and ordinary eyes cannot see small devia- tions. Moreover, it is not necessary to use lines ; squares, for straight plane surfaces at right angles, are better. If every surface is true, the parts will come together accurately, and the engine will be noiseless in action. As a rule, small engines "pound" like sewing-machines, and make as much noise as type-writers. The reason for this is that they are out of truth all over. I have been explicit in these directions, perhaps diffuse, for the reason that works purporting to give directions to make small engines abound, 33 34 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. and, as a matter of fact, give no directions at all, or very superficial ones at best. Skilled work- men, of course, know how to do machine work correctly, and are aware of the penalties of doing- it incorrectly ; but as this work is intended for amateurs who are not supposed to have great experience in all lines, I have thought it better to give full directions to produce good results. Persons who "know it all" do not buy books; it is only those who wish to learn and are willing to learn who profit by them. To return to the engine work ; we have now got our cylinder and its heads out and the steam- chest partly finished, and may turn to the piston and its rod. The latter is made of machine steel and is threaded on both ends ; one where it screws into the piston, and one where it screws into the cross-head, with a check nut to keep it from turn- ing next to the latter. These threads must be cut in the lathe and a tap made with finer threads than the average ma- chine tap for this size hole. The thread should be not less than 20, and need not be over i inch long with just enough taper to start it in square. The piston (see page 47), is screwed on the rod and the end of the latter riveted over, a hexa- gon on the top of the piston being to screw the rod into the cross-head. The piston is a mere disk without packing, and is made as light as pos- sible to keep the engine in balance, for the weight is chiefly on top. No packing should be put in SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Fig. 9. 36 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. small pistons, but they should fit the cylinder tightly ; the leakage amounts to little or nothing. The piston-rod, and everything else to be turned, must have drilled centres in it, and be cut to the proper length so that the centres will remain, and the piston should be turned all over inside and out. It is of cup form, inverted, which makes a little more clearance on the under side, a matter of no moment. The cross-head comes next, Fig. 9, and this is made of cast-iron with brass gibs ; these last are made fast by counter-sunk machine screws tapped into the cross-head. No adjustment is required for wear, since the surfaces are very large for an en- gine of the size, but when needed pieces of paper can be placed between the gib and cross-head. It works closely, but freely in the guides, so that there is no lost motion. The cross-head can be wholly made in the lathe, the faces of the jaws being faced parallel by centring them, and put- ting them between the centres, or by putting the cross-head upon the face-plate ; the ends being turned true it is chucked and the hole for the rod drilled and tapped. The wrist-pin hole is then bored, and the job is complete except finishing, and drilling and tapping the holes for the gib- screws ; these last should be of brass. All the pins, cross-head, and crank, and those for the link motion, should be made of steel, and carefully turned to standard sizes to fit reamers or reamed holes, SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 37 Fig. IQ, 38 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. The crank-pin should have a I hole bored through it to lighten it up, and it must be a driv- ing fit in the crank-eye. When put in the crank- eye is to be heated a little so as to expand it, the pin inserted, and riveted over afterward ; the shaft is also of machine steel finished all over. The connecting-rod is forged of steel in one piece, and has a lug on one side for a binding- screw to take up slight wear. In all high-speed engines everything must be as simple and as solid as possible to avoid their working loose. The crank- pin brass is therefore made in one piece like a bush, driven in to the connecting-rod end and slotted ; the distance-piece between the lugs goes through this slot, and the screw holds all fast. The bush is then reamed to size ; and the rod is attached by slipping it over the pin, the nut and washer on the end making all secure. Now, in boring the crank-pin and shaft-holes in the crank itself, the greatest care must be taken to have them absolutely true and square. This is one of the most important jobs about the en- gine ; and if it is not rightly done the engine will never work smoothly, and the error can never be remedied without a new crank. The way to do this job is as follows: See that the face-plate is absolutely true before beginning it, and do not allow the least imper- fection in truth to exist. Then bore the shaft hole, and face the crank true all over. Then, hav- ing laid out its length from centre to centre pre- SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 39 Fig, zx, 4O SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. viously, reverse the crank and put the face-side next to the face-plate, with the crank-eye in the centre in position to be drilled, being sure that the crank is flat against the face-plate all over. t-J *'< The eccentrics are of cast-iron, and can be all finished in the lathe without any trouble at all. Chuck them true, and face them off both sides, then bore the hole on one side for the shaft. CHAPTER VII. WE must now consider the link and its con- nections ; and in this job the amateur will have an opportunity to show his ability or the want of it, for it is a very important detail. It must work freely in all parts, and yet have no lost motions ; the link-block must bear squarely on both faces of the link, fit closely, and slide easily ; the pins in the lugs must be a tight fit without binding, and the whole, though made of many pieces, be as if it was in one piece. The first thing to be done is to face both sides in the lathe to an equal thickness, then lay off the radius or curve of the link to the size marked on the drawing and then the several holes. These, and all other holes drilled, must be standard sizes, and allowance of f made for reaming them. After the holes are reamed they must be lapped out, as it is called, in order to obtain a perfect surface ; for these bear- ings have a great deal of work to do. Lapping is accomplished in this instance by casting a piece of lead i inch in diameter and 3 inches long ; put it in the chuck, and turn one end to the size of the hole, and about i inch long. Then apply oil and the finest flour emery or cro- cus, and polish the interior as smooth as possible. 41 42 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Run the lathe on the highest speed, and keep the work moving back and forth, turning it all the while. When the pins that go in the hole are fitted they should be similarly treated, so that they ._#_' 1 of this l< i i * i L ",& . c 1 i 4"*^^^"*^ 1 U-.Hf,6--^ r" /^"' i 1 ^ ! ^ RE JT ""^^J * v ; r~~~~ 1 \^^X p will be perfectly smooth and true, and without the least shake in the hole. It will be observed that there are two wrought- iron jaws on the eccentric-rods that engage with the links; these are too small to forge, and the best way to make them is to get a piece of square SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 43 iron forged to size of both jaws, and then drill the slot as shown in the sketch. This makes it handy to turn the ends, and drill the holes for the taps ; and both jaws are exactly alike then, the drilled Cut I here slot being, of course, cut out square and filed true, the jaws being separated afterward by dividing into two parts. The link-block should be made of hard brass, 44 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. well hammered before tooling to condense it, and it must fit the slot in the link accurately. To do this it will be necessary to use a scraper, for no files can be used on small high places. In drilling- the holes for the steam-chest bolts, O great care must be taken also. Drill the chest first, then put it on the cylinder, and drill two holes on opposite ends through the chest-holes in the flange, or steam-chest seat, on the cylinder; tap these holes out, and screw the bolts that belong in them down hard. Then drill the rest of the holes through the chest into the flange ; it is only necessary to drill far enough to mark the position of the holes accurately, using a drill the full size of the hole in the chest and afterward substituting the drill for the tap. If this is properly done, every bolt will go in square and true ; if it is not prop- erly done, much trouble will be found in getting the bolts in. The cover can be drilled in the same way. These instructions seem to an expert workman unnecessary; but they are not to amateurs, to whom this book is addressed ; it is from the small things, apparently small, that great annoyances and extra work arises if they are not properly executed. The valve should also be of hard brass ; put in the vice, and face it off to the proper length as shown by the drawing, being careful to keep the ends or port faces of the same length from the exhaust-port. Measure this cavity, and see if it is as wide as the inside edges of the ports on the SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 45 r TT+- ir-T- I _____i4- fHi *' *_j_ U__[ i- "I "]"" ii iL r 2n i , Fig. 12. 46 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. cylinder, as per diagram, having, of course, dressed out the cylinder ports with file and chisel so that they are square and true ; then put the valve in the chuck and square the working face true. When this is done try the face-plate on the cyl- inder and dress it fair, and do the same by the valve, scraping both to an accurate fit. No emery must be used on this job, as it will run down into the ports and be blown into the cylinder when the engine is put to work. The nut on the valve-stem which drives the valve must fit the lugs on the back closely, yet not stiff enough to cock the valve when it is driven back and forth at high speed. The piston-rod must be carefully turned and threaded for both the cross-head and the piston, and the latter must be screwed on hard to its seat, the rod riveted over, and both put in the centres and finished to size, the rod being draw-filed at the last operation. Do not make any mistake about this job, such as thinking it will make no difference if the lathe centres run out a little bit. It will make the great- est difference, a fraction of an inch, a very small one, of error will make parts bind when they are assembled, and it will be hard to discover where the bind is. Absolute truth in work is of the first importance, then there will be no binding ; and no fussing with files in the wrong place when assem- bling. The shaft should be turned to the proper size SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 47 and finished all over, the crank-end being left the thickness of a piece of letter-paper larger than the bore of it. The crank should then be heated Handle /; Here REVERSE GEAR. slightly, enough to expand it, and the crank slipped on ; when it is cold it will be solid in its place, but a quarter-inch hole should be drilled at the junction of the crank and shaft and a steel pin 4? SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. driven in tightly. This pin must be turned to fit, or it will work out when running. Now suppose that all the parts are finished and ready to put together. The first thing to be done is to set the cross-head between the guides in the centre of them, measure top and bottom, and screw the frame up solidly on it with a couple of clamps, one on each side, being careful not to spring the frame, and being sure to screw up fairly on both sides. Observe also that the top and bottom of both frames bear fairly, as shown on a straight edge held across them and that they are square sidewise with the cross-head. It might be thought that the cross-head would prevent any distortion of surfaces by reason of its long bear- ings and its width ; but this is not the case, and every operation must be verified before proceeding to the next one. CHAPTER VIII. HAVING the frame square and true in its place, set the cylinder in its place, with the bottom head on, and put in the piston and rod. See if the rod enters the cross-head fairly, and screws down in it easily without any bind or twist. Then examine the position of the cylinder with regard to the brackets and their bearing upon the head of the frame. A very slight coating of red paint on the under side of the brackets should be used, and the cylinder moved, or twisted a little sidewise, when the actual bearina-s will be shown. These . last must be iron and iron, each part setting squarely on the other ; if this is not done when the bolts are put in and screwed up there will be great distortion of the parts, and the cylinder will be thrown out of line with the guides. The noise- less action of the engine depends upon the ac- curacy with which the work is done. No liners, pieces of tin or brass, must be put in between the brackets and frame ; all must be in actual contact. It is now in order to set the cylinder and frame on the bed-plate where it belongs, the holes having been previously drilled in the lugs on the bottom for the bolts. The frame must be carefully cen- tred with a centre-line, drawn on the bed-plate 49 5O SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. where the centre of the shaft comes, so that the crank will revolve equally, and the crank-shaft and pillow-block set in place to square by, or from. -1 Bed Plate -f: -, -T 1- h ^xgi Center of [ Shaft Bearing " 6- C. of Cylinder BED PLATE, 3" x 4". When this is done, take a sharp scriber and mark through the holes in the lugs onto the bed-plate to locate the holes. This must be very carefully SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 51 done indeed, and is a job for an expert mechanic, for there is no alteration possible after the holes are drilled. They must be reamed for turned bolts and no oblong, filed-out-on-one-side holes will answer. Unless the workman is absolutely certain of his ability to do this work properly, he should take the job to a shop where there are good work- men, and then watch the good workmen. This holds good with the holes for the pillow- block also, every detail must be square and true with every other detail ; when it is so the builder can turn his back on the engine at work and not know that there is one in the vicinity. The holes in the brackets on the cylinder must have been drilled prior to setting it in place ; when it is finally adjusted, so that the cross-head works properly in the guides, put clamps on the brack- ets and frame so as to hold it firmly ; then try the cross-head again to see if the cylinder has been shifted during the operation, then drill the frame through the holes in the bracket ; and when the bolts are put in everything will be solid iron and iron, and the engine will be in line all over. There are difficulties connected with drilling these holes just named in a lathe ; on account of the size and shape of the parts they cannot be brought to the drill readily; where this is the case the job must be taken to a machine-shop where there is an upright drill-press. CHAPTER IX. THIS engine, if constructed according to the drawings furnished (not mere designs, but work- ing drawings from which an engine has been made), will deliver 5-horse-power easily at 800 revolutions per minute with 150 pounds steam- pressure ; even more than that, but this is a fair average. Such an engine will drive a 2 5 -foot boat by 5 feet beam, or width, 8 miles an hour, carrying 20 persons, or it will drive a small machine shop with several lathes, drills, and other tools in it. If it is not desired to build so large an engine, the amateur can exactly halve the proportions all through and make a very neat model. This would give a cylinder i^ inches diameter by 2 inches stroke ; and the link motion can be omitted, using instead of it a single eccentric, with no reverse motion, directly connected to the valve-stem. If a horizontal engine is preferred, a design for the cylinder of it, ii inches by 3 inches is given (page 58) ; the other proportions used in the ver- tical engine will also answer for this engine. Changing the position of the cylinder makes no difference in the sizes. No bolts need be made for these engines unless o SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 53 54 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. they are under i of an inch, for machine screws are so universally used that they can be had of all sizes in any tool store; the same is true of nuts. Bicycle parts, or nuts at all events, can be had nickel- plated, if needed, down to i of an inch in size. The crank-pin connection shown in the details of the 3 -inch cylinder is so made from the fact that the rotative speed is high, and it is necessary to avoid all parts that are liable to get loose, but another form of connection which admits of greater adjustment is here shown which requires careful attention to make it properly. It is commonly used upon large vessels. For those who cannot get forgings made a connecting-rod made in part of steel, or iron rods, is given. Referring to small parts suppose it is necessary to have a check-valve for a small boiler, the water-passage being not larger than | of an inch. Then get a brass rod inch in diameter and I long, and put it in the chuck. Drill a ^ hole in it I deep, then drill a i hole through it. The SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 55 larger hole must be drilled first, for its bevel forms the valve-seat, and being held steadily makes the seat true and without chatters. Now take a small tool and enlarge the tk hole to I just around the seat where the valve comes. This leaves a cham- ber inside, and the thread for the cap or pipe- connection to the valve-chamber is to be cut on this with a chaser. In the end of the cap which is screwed into the valve-chamber a hole ith in diameter is to be drilled for the end of the valve spindle as a guide, and the valve is made from a brass rod, in an obvious way, ground to its seat. Cocks are made in the same way from brass rod large enough for the job, or from small castings. Small pipes of any thickness metal can be had from pencil-case makers who draw tubing of ^V bore if needed. These are silver soldered, and tight against ordinary pressures. They cost very little. It must be borne in mind that simply turning or boring objects or details to size does not imply that they fit each other, for in most cases they do not. Fitting means that the several details are in absolute contact over their whole surfaces ; a very different matter from merely filling holes without shaking. It is not so easy to fit a round pin to a round hole when they are of small diameter, either by turning or filing, and the only quick and sure way is to grind the parts together. To do this well requires experience and patience ; it is not a job that can be forced or driven but must go 56 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. naturally along through regular stages. The holes are, we will say, i inch in diameter ; now having drilled them closely to the size, take a reamer and ream them out, which will make them cylindrical at least. Then turn the pins full to the size, so they will push in tightly, and then apply oil and floated crocus to the surface, rotat- ing the work and drawing the pin in and out during the operation. This is very soon done, and the time taken is well expended if a fine job is required ; but the work must be thoroughly washed when completed, so that none of the grinding material remains on it. Another method of fitting is to scrape the sur faces so that they are in contact, and for an amateur this is far easier than it is to file them. Scrapers are of two forms practically, a flat nose and a triangular point, made by grinding a saw- file slightly convex on the point ; also a diamond- J3oint hand-tool can be used to good advantage. The main brasses of the engine, shown in previous chapters, are bored to size but they must be fitted to the shaft bearing carefully, so that they will not heat or pound at high speeds. They are bored together in the pillow-block they go in, and each half must then be taken out and tried on the shaft with a very slight coating of red-lead on the journal ; by rubbing the brass on this it will be seen that they are very far from fitting, even though the bore is apparently smooth and true. All the inaccuracies must be taken out by scrap- SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 57 ing. The same course must be followed with the o valve and seat. Amateurs may use a return-crank motion to drive the slide-valve instead of an eccentric, for in some places it is very convenient. A return- crank is shown in Fig. 6, and is very simple to make ; but it must be used with a valve without lap, as it can only have a very small lead or open- ing-, as will be seen from its construction and prin- ciple. The stroke of the valve can be materially changed by moving the shaft end of the return- crank to or from the centre of it, but the lead remains practically the same. For a small hori- zontal engine the return-crank is very satisfactory. The design herewith is similar to that of the Corliss engine with the exception of the valve, which is a slide. The cylinder bolts directly onto the end of the frame; and the pillow-block and guides are bolted to the bed-plate by screws, as shown. The guide is a tubular casting, bored and reamed true in the lathe, and faced and turned true on one end before removing it from the chuck. This end fits the cylinder and forms the front head, so that when the parts are put together there is no lining up to be don.e, and the cylinder is absolutely in line with the guides. After the guides are bored they are cut open by drilling along the central line, and on the edges of the cut a brass rod slotted or sawed for its whole length is fitted. This hides the raw edge and makes a neat finish ; or an iron rod can be used if preferred. CHAPTER X. ONE-HORSE POWER HORIZONTAL ENGINE. IN this example of a horizontal engine all the work can be done on a lathe, which is a matter of some importance to an amateur without facilities for planing ; filing true surfaces of any extent is also a tedious and sometimes an unsatisfactory job ; in this engine the cylinder, valve-face, steam- chest, and guides are all completed in the lathe, and the guides are accurately centred in place, so that there is no lining up to be done to make them come exactly true. The cross-head is also turned in the lathe and, in a few words, the fitting and vice work is reduced to a very small quantity. Any amateur who is a fair lathe-hand can make a nice piece of work out of this design. It is proper to make a few remarks here about the power of these small engines. As generally made they are mere toys, of no value except to look at a few times and are then thrown aside ; but this is not the case with the example shown. The reason for the inutility of small engines is that they are not designed to do any work, but are hastily thrown together, with inadequate bear- ings and wearing surfaces ; they speedily work 58 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 59 6o SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. bQ SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 6 1 loose all over and are mere rattle-traps and eye- sores to mechanics. The boilers used with them are of no value either, and are incapable of gen- erating 1 steam enough at high pressures to do any work. With the boiler shown (of the vertical type) this horizontal engine will easily deliver i- horse power at 600 revolutions per minute and 100 pounds steam pressure ; and it will do good service for years if properly managed, notwith- standing that the piston is only i\ inches in di- ameter. A small piston running at high speed with reasonable pressure (not under 75 or 100 pounds) will do a good deal of work ; the author has in mind one of 2^ inch cylinder by 6-inch stroke which, with only 40 pounds steam pressure, runs a small wagon-maker's shop, having lathe, drill press, and bolt-cutting machines. The cost for fuel is nothing, while the advantage of having power at hand enables men with small shops to earn a good deal more than they could with hand labor alone. In this horizontal engine all the bearings are larger than strict proportions require, but that is an error on the right side, and, while it is not contended that this engine is fitted to drive a small shop, unless it be for amateur work, it has the ability to do so on occasion if required. It will readily drive a 1 6-inch engine lathe, or a bolt- cutting machine up to i -inch diameter of bolt. Referring to the engine itself patterns will have to be made for all the cast-metal details; 62 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. *. I18," Shaft II il i i I I fl* M-J * Fig. 15. BED-PLATE OF HORIZONTAL ENGINE. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 63 having these the execution of the work can pro- ceed rapidly. In all jobs of this character the object sought is to do as little useless work, or re-handling as possible. All the lathe-work on the cylinder should be done in sequence, as far as it can be ; not a part at one time and another subsequently. The cylinder, in this case, has no ports cast in it, they being too small for handling for the average moulder ; they must, therefore, be drilled in, as shown in the drawings. To do this put the cylinder in the vice and roughly dress off the valve-face so that lines will show on it. Get a piece of blue-stone, so called, wet it and rub it over the valve-face ; this, when dry, leaves a deposit of copper on the face of the work so that lines will show clearly on it ; then lay off the ports as per drawing. Having done this get a drill T& smaller than the finished width of the part and drill down to the depth shown on the drawing, leaving but little metal between the holes as shown. Then, having previously laid off the ports on the ends of the cylinder, drill through to meet the holes in the valve-face ; when all the holes are drilled, make a drift, or square- ended chisel, and drive out the metal between the holes. This operation requires care to make it successful and there should be several drifts, each a little wider than the rest, so that no great amount of metal is removed at one cut. The end of the port where it comes against the cylinder- head is to be cut down to the bore, thus establish- SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. I o r Fig. 1 6. VALVE GEAR OF HORIZONTAL ENGINE. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 65 ing connection to the piston. There is ample metal left in the bore to do this work, but ama- teurs must be careful not to drill too far, or so Fig. 17. that the point of the drill would penetrate the bore when it is completed. Cutting the ports must be done first, so that subsequent operations will not injure the faces. 66 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. If this job is got through with properly, chuck the cylinder and face off the back end of it ; then turn it end for end, and face the other end, and square the flanges where the guides come. This should not be done to dimension at first, but merely to get the heaviest part of the stock off. Then run a cut through the cylinder and bore it within sV of the size. Very few amateur lathes will bore a true, parallel hole of any length, so it will be necessary to make a bit to do this properly. This bit is merely a reamer, and it leaves the bore absolutely true and parallel. The engraving shows the bit. It is merely in its simplest form a wooden stock with a steel cutter inserted in it, and as amateurs have little use for special tools, it is made as shown to meet their needs. Take a piece of any close-grained wood, maple or beech, about 6 or 8 inches long, and turn it as shown ; make a saw- cut the whole length of the boss, down to the centre, and insert a piece of sheet-steel iV of an inch thick. This must be filed off to the surface of the wood, and backed off so that it will form a cutter ; harden the steel to a violet-blue and, having started a cut in the bore of the right size for J of an inch, put in the reamer or bit and feed up on the tail-stock screw. This will make a true bore as smooth as a looking-glass ; x there is no occasion to counter- bore this small cylinder, the heads fit right to the bore. The flange and guide-seat are now to be squared as the last thing, just scraped, so as to bring them true with the bore, and the outside of SMAJX ENGINES AND BOILERS. 67 the flange turned. It is well to be very careful on this operation, for if the tool catches in running it in or out, or in setting it, and the cylinder is shifted, trouble will ensue ; it can never be set exactly true again, the only resource is to put the cylinder on an arbor, or mandrel, and square it in that way. We have now to deal with the valve-seat and steam-chest flanges, and to do this the cylinder must be chucked so as to bring the valve-face in the right position ; or the valve-face can be trued by putting a piece of iron in the exhaust-port for a centre, and another centre in the foot, or leg, on the cylinder, to sustain it; this is much the easiest way for an amateur and the quickest also ; but in truing the bottom of the cylinder bearing, or foot, care should be taken that the bore is exactly at right angles with it. To attain this put a piece of wood across the bore and mark the exact centre of the cylinder on it ; then swing the cylinder against a fine-pointed tool in the tool-post and centre it exactly ; be very careful in maintaining the centres exactly while turning the flanges on the valve-chest and the foot, for if the latter is not square with the bore the cylinder will cock up in front, or at the back, and the bearing on the end of the guide where it is fastened to the bed-plate will be a good deal out of the way ; the thickness of a piece of thin paper, even, on the cylinder- foot, will throw the guide-foot off over T V of an inch. In squaring the flanges for the steam-chest seat 68 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. and the valve-face it will be noticed that the latter is T V of an inch higher than the former ; the ports must be stopped with wood so that the tool will not dodge into them and mar the edges. Having the cylinder all dressed up in good shape the steam-chest is to be taken in hand and faced up. This can be done easily and quickly in the chuck, and the whole work done without re- moving it. Catch the chest by the outside of the chuck-jaws in the bore of the chest (there is no need to bore the chest inside) and turn it all over outside and square the faces ; before removing it from the chuck put a little fine emery on the face and hold the cylinder up to it on a fast speed ; this will grind both faces steam tight so that it will not require a joint. Mark this face and the cylinder-flange with a small centre-punch so that it can be put on its own face when assembling. Now take the steam-chest cover and finish it up all over and grind it to the steam-chest also ; while it is in the chuck scribe a fine line on the face where the bolt holes are to come, so that they will all be central. Do not drill any hole in the chest-cover for an oil-cup, none is needed. It will be seen that the valve- stem stuffing-box screws into the chest, so that the latter can be turned all over. Now take the guide in hand and bore it out with the same bit that was used on the cylinder, for both are of the same size ; then put it on an arbor (a wooden one will answer if it has metal SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 69 centres), and square up the flanges where they go on the cylinder, and also the front end of the guide ; it will serve to show whether the whole sets square on the bed-plate by using a try square on the bed-plate in assembling. It will be observed that the guide-flanges are checked on the cylinder-flange, but the engraving is so small that it doesn't show very plainly. This is done to centre the guide with the bore, so that when set on its seat, there will be no adjust- ment required of any kind. The foot, or leg, on the front end of the guide will have to be dressed square in the vise, as it cannot be got at in the lathe. Set up all the parts together, cylinder and guide, and then put it on the bed-plate before taking anything off of it, and do not drill the holes in the cylinder-flange of the guide-bearing ; the guide-flanges should be drilled. When it is found that both the feet are square on the bed-plate, then the holes in the cylinder-flange can be marked off carefully and drilled ; without this pre- caution the cylinder and guide-flanges might be set on a cock-bill. Now let us take the crank-disk in hand ; this, also, will require careful work. Turn the face outside and on the edge, all over, then put the face side next the face-plate, and bore the shaft- hole, and face the hub at the same time. Then lay off the crank-pin hole by scribing the centre of it with a sharp-pointed tool exactly i inches from the centre of the shaft. Remove the disk SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Fig. 1 8. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Jl and lay out a f hole on this centre, and centre it on the face-plate so that it is ready for boring. Much depends on the integrity of this job ; for if the crank-pin is not absolutely square with the shaft, the engine will never work silently. The crank-pin being out of square throws the connect- ing-rod twice the amount of the untruth in a revolution, and that, in turn, lifts or twists the cross-head in the guides, a result that can never be remedied in any way except by making a new crank. In fitting the shaft to the hub leave it a trifle larger than the hub, the merest shade that can be felt, or so it will barely enter the hub, then heat the latter enough to expand it, and put the shaft in and let it cool ; the shrinkage will hold it securely, but there is a steel pin driven in, as shown, to make sure. After the crank is shrunk on in place, turn all the bearings and finish the shaft to size, but do not turn it end for end in the centres ; if these last run out a little bit, the bear- ings will be out of truth with each other, the axes will not coincide ; the crank-face and rim should also be turned up and polished at the same time. The crank-pin should be a driving fit and riveted over on the crank-hub ; turn that end of the pin slightly hollow so as to leave a raised rim all round it ; by flattening this down on the crank, very little hammering will be needed to make the pin tight. The pillow-block brasses are to be fitted in and then bored to size, after which they are to be. 72 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. squared on a mandrel while in the block. Here is where an angle-plate comes in very aptly on a lathe, for by squaring the base of the pillow-block in the vise, or between the centres (which is the better way) , the brass can be set on the angle-plate and the brasses bored exactly to the distance marked without using a mandrel. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 73 Fig. ao. 74 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. The eccentric can be faced on both sides, turned on its diameter for the straps, and after- ward shifted on one side I of an inch to bore the shaft-hole. The straps should be cast in two parts, faced on the lugs, then soldered together, and the bolt-holes drilled the size of the tap-hole, en- larging the other strap-hole subsequently ; the straps are to be bored when soldered, and after- ward melted apart. The hole for the eccentric- rod can be drilled and tapped better when the straps are asunder. The valve can be faced in the chuck, although it is so small that it is just as easy to dress it in the vise ; it should not be ground to the valve- face, but scraped to a true bearing. The valve gearing, rocker- arms, etc., require no explanation ; they are all of steel, and the arms are made as shown in the diagram on page 75 ; take a piece of round machinery steel large enough for the job and turn it up, as shown, to the outer dimen- sions of the arm. Then file it off while still in the chuck on opposite sides for the hubs. Do not cut it off of the piece, but take it out of the chuck, and drill the holes for the shafts through the hub and for the pin ; having done this and found out that the holes are parallel with each other (by putting tight-fitting rods through them and squinting across them), cut the arm off the piece, put it on a small mandrel and square the hubs true ; the body of the arm can also be turned flat for a short distance as a guide to filing SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 75 Fig. ai. 76 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. it later. Very small details can be made in this way accurately which could not be readily handled in any other way, neither caught in a vice or held so as to shape them. Now in drilling the holes for the steam-chest and cylinder covers a word of caution will not be amiss. Nothing causes more annoyance when assembling than holes that do not come fair, and tapped holes that will not admit the bolts because they do not coincide. It is easy to avoid this trouble by following this plan : select the drill to be used for the taps and drill the holes with that first, clear through as far as it is to go, then enlarge the holes the bolt is to pass through afterward ; by doing this the bolts will enter fair every time, and the bodies will be a snug fit to the holes. Lay the holes off in the steam- chest cover and the cylinder covers of this engine ac- curately and mark the centres ; then drill two holes on opposite sides and tap them for the bolts. Put the parts together and screw them up tight ; then drill all the other holes clear through, as they are to be when complete. In turning the piston see that it is a snug fit to the cylinder ; there is no packing in it, for none is needed ; but the piston must fit closely and yet run free. The centres in the piston-rod must be left in, and also in every piece that is turned, and they must, in all cases, be drilled. No centre-punch centres should ever be used for anything. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 77 It is proper to here call the amateur's attention to a method of finishing small cylindrical castings where a scroll chuck is not available. In this case a wooden chuck is made and bolted on the face- Fig. 21. plate ; it is then turned out so that the casting will drive in tightly, the edges of the casting, or flanges, being turned when on the cylinder. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Fig. 22. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 79 The connecting-rod is a simple job, but the pin- holes will have to be bored on a lathe which will swing the rod. This rod is made with solid ends, for the reason that the engine runs very fast, and small details will work loose in spite of good workmanship. The crank end is bushed and will run a long time without wear if the pin is a good job when first made ; when it gets too slack, it is a very simple task to put in another bush. The cross-head is of cast-iron with hard brass gibs let into the jaws, which are held by two bolts in each jaw. The cross-head can be all squared and trued up in the lathe, and it should be finally turned on its guide faces when on the pis- ton-rod. This may not be possible on some amateur lathes, as it needs a steady rest ; lacking this the cross-head can be screwed into a short mandrel held in the chuck. SO SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. The fly-wheel may seem small to some, but its circumferential velocity is high, over 1,200 feet Fig. 24- per minute at 600 revolutions per minute, but it is amply strong to do its work. It is very neces- sary that it should be absolutely true at this SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 81 speed, and it should be secured by a key sunk in the shaft; this key way must be cut before the shaft is finally turned, or the cutting of it will make the shaft run untrue. This covers all the details of the horizontal engine and, as stated in previous lines, it will be Fig. 25. found wholly satisfactory in action. The method of setting the valve is the same as that shown for the vertical engine. Now let us consider a few points in regard to finishing details which sometimes puzzle amateurs. There are parts sometimes which are very thin 82 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. and have irregular outlines also ; these cannot be caught in a vise, but must be treated as shown I 4- Fig. 26. FLY-WHEEL OF HORIZONTAL ENGINE. in the engraving. Get a piece of hard wood, preferably of the right size, and plane it true on SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 83 one face ; then nail a strip on the back about an inch square to catch it in the vise. Take the piece to be draw-filed and, laying it on the block, drive brads in all around the edge, so as to have a wedging or clamping action when driving ; sink the heads below the work and there is then a flush surface on the work which permits anything to be done on it. It sometimes happens that an engine will not run when steam is turned on, and this has puzzled a good many mechanics at times. The cause in every case is that the slide-valve is off its seat, or cocked in some way by the valve-stem nut bind- ing it so that it will not seat square. Sometimes it is caused by the gland in the stuffing-box being untrue ; whatever the cause it must be removed or cured before the engine will work properly, and this caution is given to enable those who may have any trouble to find and remove it. CHAPTER XI. SETTING THE ECCENTRICS. SOMETIMES persons are puzzled in setting the eccentrics of engines, and do not get them in the right place on the shaft without a great deal of labor; not even then sometimes; but the matter is a very simple one, and easily understood. It does not take so long to do the work as to tell how it should be done. An eccentric is merely a disk with its bore on one side of its mathematical centre, and has, from this fact, an eccentric, or irregular motion ; but it has no other peculiarity, or special fitness, for opening and closing steam-valves. It is no more or less than a continuous or circular crank, where crank and pin are combined in one body. It is supposed to have, by some, an irregular velocity, but this is not correct, for any given point in its body moves at a regular speed around the shaft, the same as a crank-pin does. There is a long side and a short side to an eccentric, so to speak, and the side nearest the shaft does move more slowly than the long or opposite side, but the velocity of the wheel itself is regular around the shaft as before stated ; the SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. f 1 1 ? r Trave^of Vah - ! | : [ J Lap i 1 Pig. 27. 86 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. only variation being as it approaches the centre or points of no travel, when changing from one direction of motion to the other. The idea of an irregular motion was doubtless obtained from looking at the long side and at the short side alternately. The throw of an eccentric is the distance from the centre of the wheel to the centre of the shaft that it is on ; the stroke of the eccentric is twice the above distance. These terms are not the same, and should not be used as if they were. The stroke of the eccentric has no effect upon the times of the valve action. The travel of the valve operated by any given eccentric can never be changed after it is once constructed ; that is, fixed by the difference or distance of the shaft centre from the centre of the eccentric itself; it is only the times of the travel that can be altered by rotating the eccentric around the shaft. Let us take an imaginary valve and eccentric to explain this more fully. The width of the steam-ports is i inch, and the lap is half an inch ; the lap added to the width of the port gives the throw of the eccentric or its travel in one direction to open one port fully ; manifestly, this is the throw (distance of the centre of the shaft hole from the centre of the eccentric) , because in a complete revolution the valve travels the same distance in the other direction ; it is then said to have 3 inches valve travel. Having settled these minor points, let us con- SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 87 sider the actual process of setting any given valve, slide, piston, poppet, or any other. The same processes apply to all, modified only by the valve gear ; of this last there are endless types, and only those in common use all over are alluded to. The engine being connected in all parts, it is required to know where the eccentric should be set to open and close the ports properly. If the eccentric-rod is attached directly to the valve- stem, the position of the eccentric can be fixed at a glance by an engineer of experience ; but first he finds out whether the valve runs square as it is called, before he attempts to set the eccentric itself. If the engine is a small affair the whole of the details can be connected together, and the shaft revolved ; if the engine is large this last cannot be done without much labor and an ex- penditure of time which is quite unnecessary. For instance : to find the correct length of the eccentric-rod. Place the valve at mid-stroke, lap equal at both ends, and turn the eccentric, not the shaft, up so that its longest part is toward the steam-chest, whether vertical or horizontal. Now take the eccentric-rod and strap attached, and put the strap where it belongs, noting the position of the con- nection to the valve-stem and that on the eccen- tric-rod ; mark the difference, and then turn the eccentric in the opposite direction and see where it comes on that side. Jf the eccentric-rod travels 88 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. equally on each side of the centre of the valve- stem connection the eccentric-rod is of the proper length ; if it does not travel equally shorten the valve half of the difference only until it shows true. When the valve throws square set the eccen- tric (to make the matter simple) , as in the diagram, and revolve the shaft only ; there is no occasion to drag a heavy piston and connecting-rod, with their attendant friction, back and forth. If the valve has too much opening (lead) when the crank is at the end of the stroke, turn the eccen- tric-wheel on the shaft (do not change the valve- stem or eccentric-rod length) until the opening is equal on both ends. Then the valve is in its proper position to mechanically open and close the ports ; but its real position for the best results must be ascertained by indicator diagrams. Of course the reader understands that the crank is on its dead centre in all of the above movements. THE LINK MOTION. The operation just described applies to a com- mon, straight connection, and it is modified to some extent by rocker arms and the details of the valve-gear ; but the operation is practically the same in all cases, no matter what the details may be. Take the link motion used for reversing, this also has been endowed with purely imaginary functions, the link itself being supposed to have some part in the operation of the valve when it is merely an adjunct to facilitate reversing direc- SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 89 tions of motion ; the link, as its name implies, being merely a curved strap to hold two eccentric-rods at a given distance from each other, and admit of one or the other rod being thrown in or out of gear at will. Erratic motions and actions of the link are not caused (or cured either) by change of its form, for what is gained in one direction is lost in another ; but erratic motions are caused by the length of the link itself, the length of the eccentric-rods, and the throw of the eccentric. This is only another form of saying that if the radius of the link, its point of suspension, the length of the rods, and the throw of the eccentrics are not properly designed in the first instance, there will be an erratic motion of the link at one or more points in its stroke. Take the radius of the link for example : This is conventionally the dis- tance from the centre of valve-stem connection with valve at mid-stroke to the centre of the shaft ; but sometimes if the connections are very short, indeed this gives a very awkward link, of short curve, so that the link block binds or works hard ; then the link is made of longer radius than the centre of the shaft, or of such proportions that the engine will reverse easily. If the engine works at full stroke all the time this doesn't matter, for the valve can be made to work properly at full stroke, regardless of the link radius. If, however, it is intended to work ex- pansively then difficulties arise at once if the link is of an improper radius, for the lead increases or 9O SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. decreases alarmingly with any shift of the link if the rods are straight connected or " open," as it is called. If the rods are crossed then the lead decreases toward mid-gear. It might be supposed that when the rods are of the proper length and the link is of the correct radius then there would be no motion of the valve with the link in mid-gear, but this is not the case, for it will be observed by the diagram that the centres of the eccentric wheels and the centre of the shaft are not coincident ; so that in a complete revolution there is an eccentricity of motion equal to half the distance of the variation mentioned, so that there will always be a motion of the valve in mid-gear independent of the throw of the eccen- trics themselves. Now as to setting the eccentrics for the link- motion on a direct connection, the operation is the same as that for the single eccentric, both eccen- tric-rods must be brought to the proper length to make the valve travel square before anything else is done ; after that the eccentrics are fixed on the shaft midway between vertical lines and horizontal lines drawn on the shaft, that is to say, about quar- ter-stroke, and opposite to the crank-pin, as in the diagram. The shaft can then be turned once, a complete revolution, to verify the lead, and the job is done ; the eccentric will only have to be moved a little, one way or the other, to equalize the lead or make it unequal, as is often done with large and heavy connections, "Midway" is only a com- SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 9! parative expression, for the eccentrics are not midway between horizontal and vertical lines, but are advanced slightly to make up for the lap and lead. It will be readily seen that it is a very simple task to adjust a link-motion by this method. The idea of* pinching or barring a heavily connected engine with the piston in, and all stuffing-boxes packed, is absurd, but it is very frequently done by persons who should have thought a little further. To sum up the whole operation of setting an eccentric on a shaft : Get the eccentric-rod of the proper length first ; then set the eccentric with the longest part at quarter-stroke, and opposite the crank-pin when the main crank is on the centre ; turn the shaft once to equalize the lead, and make the eccentric-wheel fast on the shaft. If the lap and lead allowances have been correctly made, this will bring the eccentric where it should be. MACHINE FINISH. The appearance of mechanical details is greatly improved by the character or the finish done upon them. Finishing, so-called, is not merely to sur- face polish the details, but it comprises, also, the workmanship upon them in fitting one part to another. Slovenly workmen pay no attention to sharp corners, true surfaces before polishing, and square corners where they are meant to be square, 92 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. or round corners where they are meant to be round, and the result is that, even if the work is well designed otherwise, it has the appearance of a second-class job. Nothing can be slighted in the way of fitting, if it is only upon a small model, if an amateur expects credit for or satisfaction in his productions. As regards surface polish there are many kinds of this, each of which has certain values. The simplest of them is to produce a true surface by files or scrapers without scratches or hollow places in it, and then polish with emery cloth of different degrees of fineness. This is much easier said than done to those who have had no experience, and about the first trouble an amateur experiences, after he is able to produce a reasonably true surface, is in keeping scratches out of his work. Scratches are caused by the files " pinning-up " as it is termed ; that is, minute particles of metal get- ting caught in the teeth of the file and tearing the surface of the work. This is very apt to occur with fine files, and workmen can tell in a moment, with one rub of a file, whether this has happened or not; the file should be cleaned at once, and chalk rubbed over it, so that the filings will have no hold on the file. On wrought metal or steel the file should be greased slightly, and cleaned with a wire brush occasionally, to keep it cutting. When " draw-filing" a finish be careful to keep the line of filing and subsequent polishing exactly true with the length of the work, not helter-skelter, SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 93 all over it in any direction. For a glazed finish use old crocus cloth, which is greasy, and rub it on hard and long ; this will give a brilliant polish when finally cleaned with chalk and dry rouge, but it will also bring out every scratch in" the job by filling it up with dirt ; so that, unless the amateur wishes to have the reproach of " high polish and deep scratches " applied to him, he should avoid crocus cloth and use flour emery paper for the last touches. OIL-STONE FINISH. This consists in bringing the work to a true plane by filing and scraping, and then going care- fully over it in detail with a small oil-stone slip. This finish should be mottled and waved in ap- pearance at the will or taste of the workman, but it is slow work and should be done upon small parts only. ACID FINISH. A dead-bright surface can be criven to machine o ^> parts by immersing them a few moments in strong nitric acid, and then immediately plunging the parts into strong soda water, and carefully wash- ing them in clear water until it is certain that the acid has been removed. The effect of the job is much enhanced by using a scratch brush on them, run at high speed in the lathe. This finish is not recommended for parts that have to be handled much, for it will turn black quickly unless pro- 94 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. tected from the air by shellac varnish, or trans- parent collodion. SCRAPED FINISH. This consists in bringing the work to a true plane, and then mottling the surface with patches scraped here and there, but alternating, with some approach to regularity. It is chiefly effective upon cast-iron surfaces of some area. A finish of more or less ornamental appearance, called worm-finish can be imparted by putting a pine plug in the chuck and turning it true on the end and .face. Charge the end with flour emery and oil, and then place the work against the back spindle and screw up on it, moving the work in straight lines or curves as desired. This gives a very bright finish of pecul- iar aspect, and is frequently used upon watch movements. SOLDERING AND BRAZING. A knowledge of this work is very convenient to machinists, but difficulty is experienced some- times in making a good job. This is because the surfaces to be joined and the agent used in doing the work, the soldering-iron, so-called, are not clean. The surfaces of the work must be abso- lutely bright, without a trace of tarnish upon them, or the solder will not take. Sand-paper will, in a majority of cases, answer to clean the parts, but it is sometimes necessary to use files or scrap- ers ; but it must be borne in mind that the solder SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 95 will not adhere unless there is a clean surface present. For tin the solder will adhere if it is clean, with rosin only as a flux ; but for brass it is necessary to use a solution called muriate of zinc. This is merely clean zinc dissolved in muriatic acid ; put zinc cuttings and muriatic acid in a bottle, and when it will not bubble or give off fumes any more the acid is spent, and is then sat- urated. Pour it carefully into another clean bottle so that no dregs of zinc enter, and fill it up with k of its bulk of soft water ; wet the parts with this and heat them on a hot plate ; then rub a stick of tin over them until they are coated with it, and solder in the usual way with a soldering-iron, or bind them together with wire, and sweat them together as it is called, by heating on a hot plate until the solder flows. This solder holds very strongly, and pieces of irregular shape which could not be otherwise held may be soldered onto the face-plate and machined off. Iron, cast or wrought, can be tinned by filing it bright or putting it in acid, if small, and then heating it on a plate over the fire so that no smoke or gas reaches it, and then covering the surface with sal-ammoniac ; rub tin all over until it melts, and solder in the usual way. Common solder is 2 parts tin and i part lead by weight. Fine brass jobs which cannot be reached by an iron can be joined by dipping the surfaces in a strong solution of sal-ammoniac, put- ting a strip of tin foil between them, and binding them with wire ; heat just enough to flow the tin. $6 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS Silver solder, so-called, is 34 parts weight of sil- ver coin and 5 copper. Melt in a clean crucible, and when partly cooled add 4 parts zinc, stirring vigorously. If the metal is too hot when the zinc is put in it will all burn out. Drop or pellet sol- der is made by taking common solder and pouring it into cold water, having the solder only hot enough to run easily. BRAZING. This process differs from soldering in the na- ture of the agent employed to hold the parts to be joined. Brazing is accomplished by melting brass filings applied directly on the seam and fused in it by holding the work over a fire. It requires considerable practice to do it successfully, and is hardly within the pale of amateur work ; but if any one desires to try it, let them scrape the seam sur- faces bright, and apply sal-ammoniac and brass filings directly to the seam with a small spoon made of a copper strip. The work must be moved to and fro over a charcoal fire, and when the cop- per approaches red-heat, the solder or brass will flow into the seam. This reads very simply, but whoever undertakes it for the first time will find that it is not so easy as it reads. CHAPTER XII. BOILERS. A BOILER which will merely hold hot water and stand pressure up to 10 pounds can be made of tin soldered together like a teakettle, but such a boiler is not worth the time spent upon it. "It is merely a makeshift, and unworthy of any one who aspires to be more than a tinker. A boiler to be of any use must be of some considerable dimensions and thickness of plate ; it must have a good fire-box and ample heating surface for the work it has to do, and it must be properly propor- tioned as well for the fuel used. If it is desired merely to run an engine to see it in operation under low pressure, the quickest made, cheapest, and most compact form of boiler is the common cylinder boiler, used with charcoal fuel, or arranged for a gasoline burner, such as is now sold for melting lead in pots by plumbers. This is a cheap fuel, but it is not a particularly safe one, for gasoline is treacherous stuff, and brooks no careless hands or heads about it. A copper boiler, 4 inches diameter by yV thick and 12 inches long, will drive (that is run) an en- gine with i inch diameter of cylinder by ij-inch 97 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Fig. 28. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 99 stroke of piston all day long at 1,000 revolu- tions per minute, and maintain a pressure of 50 pounds if properly arranged as to the heating sur- Fig. 28. BOILER CAP. face ; but the \vater must be constantly renewed, and to do this some sort of a feeding apparatus must be employed ; the simplest to make is a 100 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. common plunger-pump with two valves, suction, and delivery, but a much better and more conve- nient form of boiler for amateurs is the vertical tubular boiler, as shown in the diagrams. This, as will be seen, is easily made by any fairly good workman, and has no rivets to bother by leaking in inaccessible places, the only ones being on the bottom where they can easily be put in. The dimensions are given in the diagrams ; the total heating surface in the tubes is 7 square feet, which with gasoline fuel should give very nearly i-horse-power. If a seamless brass tube cannot be easily had of the size given, a coppersmith will make a copper-tube brazed which is very nearly as strong, or, at all events, strong enough for a working pressure of 150 pounds. The rule to find the bursting pressure of any cylindrical shell or tube is, to multiply the thick- ness of the metal in parts of an inch by i of the tensile strength, and divide by half the diameter of the tube. For example : the tensile strength of copper is (brazed) 30,000 pounds per square inch ; ith of this is 7,500 pounds. The copper is ith thick (decimal .125). So 7,500 x by .125 = 937.5; dividing this by half the diameter of the tube, 6 inches, gives us 156 pounds working pres- sure, which is just \ of the bursting pressure or actual strength of the tube. The heads are cast-brass, or may be of copper flanged, but brass is easier to cut a thread on than SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. IOI copper, and must be screwed in tight. It will be seen that this is a pretty good job for an amateur's lathe, which would hardly swing it, and if preferred the tube sheets can be riveted in with $ copper rivets spaced I inch between centres. The edges of the tube sheets must be caulked tightly after riveting, and a rivet-set used on the outside heads to make a neat finish. The tubes are I inside, because they are to be expanded in, and that is the smallest expander to be had ; they will be absolutely tight when rolled, and need not be riveted over on the ends ; no steam press- ure can draw them out. The dome on top for the smoke-stack will require a pattern made for it if it is intended to have a neat appearance. The gauge-cocks can be bought in brass-goods stores, they are called " ith air-valves," and are very small, neatly-finished valves, nickle-plated, costing 15 cents apiece. The feed-pipe enters at the bottom, and will require a check-valve close to the shell. The steam-pipe emerges where marked, and branches can be taken from it to carry the steam- gauge, safety-valve, and whistle if required. In drilling the holes for the tubes in the tube- sheets be careful to get exactly the same number of tubes in each row of both sheets ; if this is not done there will be an odd hole which will have to be closed by a plug. Made in brass or copper this boiler will cost considerable, and it can be made of steel just as well, with steel tubes ; but these last are apt to 102 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. Fig. 30, SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 1 03 corrode very quickly, and it is better to use brass tubes. Any small boiler-shop will make a 1 2-inch steel tube by 16 inches long, by No. 10 wire gauge, for a very moderate sum, and the heads can be flanged, also, in steel. With this material such a boiler can be made very reasonably. At 150 pounds pressure and with gasoline fuel, or, if preferred, charcoal or coke used with a blast, such as the engine exhausting into the stack, an engine 1 1-inch cylinder by 3-inch stroke, running at 1,000 revolutions per minute should deliver i horse-power, ample to drive all the tools in an amateur's shop, or a model yacht 8 or 10 feet long, by 18 inches beam. A horizontal boiler can be made which will do good work by following the diagram Fig. 30. This boiler will require a setting which may be of sheet-iron, & thick, and a breeching, as it is called, to go over the internal flue where it emerges from the head. This is a cheap boiler to make also, as it can be wholly brazed together without a rivet in it, and it will carry a high pressure ; but it will not do the work that the vertical boiler will, because it has very little heating surface for its dimensions. These last are, we will say, 16 inches long by 12 inches diameter, the same as the vertical boiler ; but the effective heating sur- face is the bottom and the internal flue, altogether only 408 square inches, or a little less than 3 square feet. This would amount to nothing at all for power purposes, and would only be useful 104 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. as a toy. If, however, we arrange the tubes as in the upper figure we can get 9^ square feet heat- ing surface, or about i horse-power. A horizontal water-tube boiler is another affair, and, in the same space as the horizontal boiler just described, will give a great deal of power. SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 1 05 86, 1 Lap Welded Tubes 13 'Long Fig. 3 a- Cap IO6 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. There is another advantage in it that gasoline or oil fuel can be used readily. Either of these fuels are far better than coal for small boilers. The trouble with it is that it does not burn easily in a confined space like a small fire-box ; more- over it is very dirty, and requires constant super- version. With oil there is no trouble or annoyance beyond the odor. With gasoline, as before explained, great care must be taken to have not the slightest leak of the fluid externally, or there will be a very dangerous explosion. The water-tube boiler is not at all difficult to make, and affords an interesting study as to the action. It can be either of the horizontal inclined type or the vertically inclined type, as desired ; an ama- teur can easily make the horizontal water-tube type. As will be seen by the engraving the generating surfaces comprise a series of tubes directly over the fire connected with the steam- drum on top. The feed-pipe enters this at the bottom and the steam-pipe issues from the top of the dome or drum. This last is made of a section of lap-welded wrought-iron pipe, and the heads are the caps which go on the same and can be found in any engineer's store. The tubes are lap-welded also, and the connections at the end are the malleable iron return-bends also kept in stock. The diagram shows how the series (3) are connected to each other, each series being also connected at the sides by running one of the return-bends at right angles, or turned down SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 107 toward the bottom of the boiler, both sides and ends (4 in all) of the series must be connected, for the steam in the lower series has to pass through them on the way to the drum. For a large boiler this would not be a good plan, but in this size it will answer. This boiler has K square feet of heatin- and 1 1 square feet grate surface, and will easily deliver ii horse- power. It will burn any kind of fuel, wood, coal, or coke, and will stand 500 pounds per square inch. This is the advantage that water-tube boilers have over fire - tube boilers ; they can carry higher pressure, and are much lighter for equal powers. It must be borne in mind, if this boiler is to carry high pressures, that all screwed fit- IO8 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. tings must be thoroughly leaded that is, cov- ered with red-lead putty (made of white lead and red lead to a stiff dough) before being made up ; and that no pipe or union must be screwed together and then taken apart; if this is done the joints will leak, for they are stretched much larger than the original size. The boiler thus far described will answer for all purposes amateurs are likely to have, and, while some of the parts cannot be made by them for want of facilities, they are not expensive to have made by workmen. They are in no sense of the word toys, to be run with alcohol lamps, but will burn coal, wood, or oil fuel when properly man- aged. Between merely driving an engine and running it for power purposes, there is a great difference, and that is where many persons fail to get power out of small engines. They have no boilers to run them. Commercial engines for power purposes can be had in market with cylinders of only 2 inches diameter, by 3 inches stroke, but they require 150 pounds of steam. Vertical submerged tubular boilers are in use in some parts of the country as shown (Fig. 33), but it is not a desirable boiler for amateurs to make, on account of the difficulty in getting the tubes in the upper head, and making the whole boiler tight. The launch engine 3"x 4" will re- quire a boiler of 30 square feet heating surface, and is wholly beyond the facilities and experience of amateurs to construct. CLASSIFIED CATALOGUE OF BOOKS ON STEAM, STEAM ENGINES, Ete. FOR SALE BY E>. VAX XOSTRAND COMPANY, 23 MIRRAV AND 27 WARREN STS., NEW YORK. BOILERS. Barr. Practical Treatise on High Pressure Steam Boilers, including Results of Recent Experimental Tests of Boiler Material, etc. 8vo. Illus- trated. Indianapolis, 1893. $3.00 Barrus. Boiler Tests : Embracing the results of one hundred and thirty- seven evaporative tests, made on seventy-one boilers, conducted by the author. 8vo. Boston, 1895. $5-oo Christie. Chimney Design and Theory. A book for Engineers and Archi- tects, containing all data relative to Chimney Designing. Illustrated with numerous diagrams and half-tone cuts of many famous chim- neys. 8vo, cloth. Illustrated. New York, 1899. $3.00 Courtney. The Boiler Maker's Assistant in Drawing, Templating, and Calculating Boiler Work and Tank Work, with rules for the Evapora- tive Power and the Horse Power of Steam Boilers, and the Proportions of Safety Valves, and Useful Tables of Rivet Joints of Circles, Weights of Metals, etc. Revised and edited by D. K. Clark, C.E. Illustrated. London, 1898. (Weale's Series.) $0.80 The Boiler Maker's Ready Reckoner. With examples of Practical Geometry and Templating, for the Use of Platers' Smiths, and Riveters. Revised and edited by D. K. Clark. 3d edition. London, 1890. (Weale's Series.) $1.60 Davis. A Treatise on Steam-Boiler Incrustation, and Methods for Pre- venting Corrosion and the Formation of Scale ; also a Complete List of all American Patents issued by the Government of the United States from 1790 to July i, 1884, for Compounds and Mechanical Devices for Purifying Water, and for Preventing the Incrustation of Steam Boilers. 65 engravings. 8vo. Philadelphia, 1884. $2.00 Foley, Nelson. The Mechanical Engineer's Reference Book for Ma- chine and Boiler Construction, in two parts. Part I., General En- gineering Data. Part II., Boiler Construction. With 51 Plates and numerous illustrations specially drawn for this work. Fol'o, half mor. London, 1895. $25.00 Horner. Plating and Boiler Making. A Practical Handbook for Work- shop Operation, including an Appendix of tables by A Foreman Pattern Maker. 338 illustrations. I2mo. London, 1895. $3.00 LIST OF BOOKS. Button. Steam Boiler Construction: A Practical Handbook for Engi- neers, Boiler Makers, and Steam Users. With upwards of 300 illustra- tions. 3d edition. 8vo. London, 1898. $6.00 Munro. Steam Boilers : Their Defects, Management, and Construction. 2d edition enlarged, with numerous illustrations and tables. i2mo. London, 1892. $1.50 Roper. The Steam Boiler: Its Care and Management. With instruc- tions for increasing the Efficiency and Economy, and insuring the Dura- bility and Longevity of all classes of Steam Boilers, Stationary, Loco- motive, Marine, and Portable. With Hints and Suggestions and Advice to Engineers, Firemen, and Owners of Steam Boilers. 4th edition, revised. I2mo, tuck, mor. Philadelphia, 1897. $2.00 Use and Abuse of the Steam Boiler. Illustrated, nth edition. I2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $2.00 Rose. Steam Boilers. A Practical Treatise on Boiler Construction and Examination. For the Use of Practical Boiler Makers, Boiler Users, and Inspectors, and embracing in plain figures all the calculations neces- sary in designing and classifying Steam Boilers. 73 engravings. 8vo. Philadelphia, 1897. $ 2 -5o Rowan. On Boiler Incrustation and Corrosion. New edition, revised and enlarged by F. E. Idell. i6mo, boards. New York, 1895. $0.50 Sexton. Pocket Book for Boiler Makers and Steam Users, comprising a variety of useful information for Employer and Workman, Government Inspectors, Board of Trade Surveyors, Engineers in charge of Works and Slips, Foremen of Manufactories, and the General Steam-Using Public. 4th edition, revised and enlarged. 321110, roan. London, 1895. $2.00 Stromeyer. Marine Boiler Management and Construction. Being a Treatise on Boiler Troubles and Repairs, Corrosions, Fuels, and Heat. On the Properties of Iron and Steel, on Boiler Mechanics, Workshop Practices, and Boiler Designs. 8vo. London, 1893. $5.00 Thurston. Manual of Steam Boilers : Their Designs, Construction, and Operation. For Technical Schools and Engineers. 183 engravings in text. 6th edition, 8vo. New York, 1898. $5.00 Steam Boiler Explosions. In Theory and Practice, Illustrated. 2d edition, I2mo. New York, 1888. $1.50 A Handbook of Engine and Bailer Trials, and of the Indicator and Prony Brake, for Engineers and Technical Schools. 3d edition. Illus- trated, 8vo. New York, 1897. $5.00 D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. Traill. Boilers: Their Construction and Strength. A Handbook of Rules, Formulae, Tables, etc., relative to Material, Scantlings, and Pres- sures, Safety Valves, Springs, Fittings and Mountings, etc. For use of Engineers, Surveyors, Draughtsmen, Boiler Makers, and Steam Users. With illustrations. 3d edition, I2mo, mor. London, 1896. $5.00 Triplex. Marine Boilers. A Treatise on the Causes and Prevention of their Priming, with Remarks on their General Management. Illustrated. I2mo. Sunderland, 1899. $2.00 Watson. Small Engines and Boilers. A Manual of Concise and Specific Directions for the Construction of Small Steam Engines and Boilers of Modern Types from five horse-power down to model sizes. I2mo, cloth. Illustrated with numerous diagrams and half-tone cuts. New York, 1899. $1.25 The intention of the author in writing this work has been to fur- nish specific directions and correct dimensioned plans for small engines and boilers. Wilson. A Treatise on Steam Boilers: Their Strength, Construction, and Economical Working. Enlarged and illustrated from the Fifth Eng- lish edition by J. T. Flather. I2mo. New York, 1897. 2.50 Boiler and Factory Chimneys: Their Draught Power and Stability. 3d edition, 1 2mo. London, 1892. $1.50 FUELS. Abbott. Treatise on Fuel. Founded on the original Treatise of Sir W. Siemens. Illustrated. i6mo. New York, 1891. $0.50 Barr. Practical Treatise on the Combustion of Coal, including descrip- tions of various mechanical devices for the Economic Generation of Heat by the Combustion of Fuel, whether Solid, Liquid, or Gaseous. 8vo. 1879. ^ 2 '5 Clark and Williams. Fuel : Its Combustion and Economy, consisting of Abridgments of Treatise on the Combustion of Coal and the Economy of Fuel. With extensive additions in recent practice in the Combustion and Economy of Fuel, Coal, Coke, Wood, Peat, Petroleum, etc. 4th edition. I2mo. London, 1891. $1-50 Hodgetts. Liquid Fuel for Mechanical and Industrial Purposes. Illus- trated. 8vo. London, 1890. $2.50 Phillips. Fuels : Solid, Liquid, and Gaseous ; their Analysis and Valua- tion. For the use of Chemists and Engineers, I2mo. London, 1896. $0.80 LIST OF BOOK'S. Sexton, A. H. Fuels and Refractory Materials. 8vo. Cloth. London, 1897. $2.00 Williams. Fuel : Its Combustion and Economy. Consisting of an Abridgment of " A Treatise on the Combustion of Coal and the Pre- vention of Smoke." With extensive additions by D. Kinnear Clark. 4th edition. London, 1891. $I5O GAS ENGINES. Clerk. The Theory of the Gas Engine. 2d edition, with Additional Matter edited by F. E. Idell. i6mo. New York, 1891. $0.50 The Gas Engine. History and Practical Working. With 100 illus- trations. 6th edition. I2mo. New York, 1896. $4.00 Donkin. A Text-Book on Gas, Oil, and Air Engines : or Internal Com- bustion Motors without Boiler. 154 illustrations. Svo. London, 1896. $7-5 Goodeve. On Gas Engines : with Appendix describing a Recent Engine with Tube Igniter. i2mo. London, 1887. $1.00 Hiscox, Gardner D. Gas, Gasoline and Oil Vapor Engines. A New Book Descriptive of Their Theory and Power. Second edition, revised and enlarged. Svo, cloth. Illustrated. New York, 1898. $2.50 HEAT. THERMODYNAMICS. Anderson. On the Conversion of Heat into Work. A Practical Hand- book on Heat Engines. 3d edition. Illustrated. I2mo. London, 1893. $2.25 Box. Treatise on Heat as Applied to the Useful Arts, for the use of Engineers, Architects, etc. 8th edition. I2mo. London, 1895. $5.00 Larden. A School Course on Heat. Illus. i2mo. London, 1894. $2.00 McCulloch. Elementary Treatise on the Mechanical Theory of Heat and its application to Air and Steam Engine. Svo. New York, 1876. $3.50 Maxwell. Theory of Heat. New edition, with Corrections and Addi- tions by Lord Rayleigh, Sec. R. S. Illustrated. I2mo. New York, 1897. $1.50 Peabody. Thermodynamics of the Steam Engine and other Heat En- gines. Svo. New York, 1898. $5-oo Rontgen. The Principles of Thermodynamics. With special Applica- tions to Hot Air, Gas, and Steam Engines. With additions from Profes- sors Verdet, Zeuner, and Pernolet. Translated, newly and thoroughly revised and enlarged by Professor A. Jay Du Bois. 732 pages. 3d edi- tion. Svo. New York, 1896. $5-oo D. VAN NOSTRAND COAfPAtfY. Tyndall. Heat considered as a mode of Motion. 6th edition. I2mo. New York, 1890. $2.50 Williams. On Heat and Steam : embracing New Views of E vaporization, Condensation, and Expansion. Illus. 8vo. Philadelphia, 1882. $2.50 Wood. Thermodynamics, Heat Motors, and Refrigerating Machines. Revised and enlarged edition. 8vo. New York, 1895. $4.00 HOISTING MACHINERY. Colyer. Hydraulic, Steam and Hand Power-Lifting and Pressing Ma- chinery. 72 large plates. Svo. London, 1892. $10.00 Glynn. Treatise on the Construction of Cranes and other Hoisting Ma- chinery. 7th edition. Illustrated. London, 1887. $0.60 Marks. Notes on the Construction of Cranes and Lifting Machinery. I2mo. London, 1892. $1.00 Towne. A Treatise on Cranes, descriptive particularly of those designed and built by the Yale and Towne Manufacturing Company, owning and operating the Western Crane Company , including also a description of light hoisting machinery as built by the same makers. Svo. New York, 1883. 1.00 Weisbach and Hermann. The Mechanics of Hoisting Machinery, in- cluding Accumulators, Excavators, and Pile-drivers. A Text-book for Technical Schools and a guide for Practical Engineers. Authorized trans- lation from the second German edition by Karl P. Dahlstrom. 177 illus- trations. Svo. New York, 1893. $3-75 ICE-MAKING MACHINES. Dixon. Manual of Ice-Making and Refrigerating Machines. A Treatise on the Theory and Practice of Cold-Production by Mechanical Means. i6mo. St Louis, 1894. $1.00 Leask. Refrigerating Machinery. Its Principles and Management. "\Yith numerous illustrations. Svo. London, 1894. $2.00 Ledoux. Ice-Making Machines : the Theory of the Action of the Various Forms of Cold-producing or so-called Ice-Machines. Translated fr.om the French. 248 pages and numerous tables. i6mo. New York, 1892. 0.50 Redwood. Theoretical and Practical Ammonia Refrigeration. A Prac- tical handbook for the use of those in charge of refrigerating plants. Illustrated with numerous Tables. I2mo. New York, 1896. $1.00 Wallis-Tayler. Refrigerating and Ice-Making Machinery. i2mo, cloth. Illustrated. London, 1896. $3.00 LIST OF BOOKS. INDICATORS. Bacon. Treatise on the Richards Steam Engine Indicator. With a Supplement, describing the latest Improvements in the Instruments for Taking, Measuring, and Computing Diagrams. Also an Appendix, con- taining Useful Formulas and Rules for Engineers. 23 diagrams. 4th edition. i6mo, flex. New York, 1883. $1.00 Ellison. Practical Applications of the Indicator. With reference to the Adjustment of Valve Gear on all Styles of Engines. 2d edition. 8vo. 100 engravings. Chicago, 1897. $2.00 Hemenway. Indicator Practice and Steam Engine Economy. With Plain Directions for Attaching the Indicator, Taking Diagrams, Comput- ing the Horse-Power, Drawing the Theoretical Curve, Calculating Steam Consumption, Determining Economy, Locating Derangement of Valves, and making all desired deductions ; also, Tables required in making the necessary computations, and an Outline of Current Practice in Testing Steam Engines and Boilers. 6th edition. I2mo. New York, 1898. $2.00 Le Van. The Steam Engine Indicator and its Use. A Guide to Practi- cal Working Engineers for greater economy, and the better Working of Steam Engines. i8mo, boards. New York, 1896. $0.50 The Steam Engine and the Indicator : Their Origin and Progressive Development, including the most recent examples of Steam and Gas Motors, together with the Indicator, its Principles, its Utility, and its Ap- plication. Illustrated by 205 engravings, chiefly of Indicator-cards. 8vo. Philadelphia, 1890. $4.00 Porter. A Treatise on the Richards Steam Engine Indicator, and the Development and Application of Force in the Steam Engine. 5th edi- tion, revised and enlarged. 8vo. London, 1894. $3.00 Pray. Twenty Years with the Indicator. Being a Practical Text-book for the Engineer or the Student, with no Complex Formulas. With many illustrations and rules as to the best way to run any Steam Engine to get the most economical results. How to Adjust Valves and Valve Motions Correctly. Full directions for working out Horse-Power, the Amount of Steam or Water per Horse-Power, Economy and Fuel. Ex- tended directions for Attaching the Indicator, what Motions to use and those not to use. Full directions for Computation of Power by Planim- eter and other methods, with many tables and hints. 8vo. New York, 1896. $2.50 D. VAN- NOSTRAND COMPANY. INJECTORS. Kneass. Practice and Theory of the Injector. 8vo. New York, 1895. $1.50 Nissenson. Practical Treatise on Injectors as Feeders of Steam Boilers. Illustrated. 8vo, paper. New York, 1890. $0.50 Pochet. Steam Injectors : Their Theory and Use. i6mo, boards. New York, 1890. 0.50 INSTRUCTIONS TO ENGINEERS, FIREMEN, AND BOILER ATTENDANTS. Bale. A Hand-Book for Steam Users, being Rules for Engine Drivers and Boiler Attendants, with Notes on Steam Engine and Boiler Manage- ment and Steam Boiler Explosions. I2mo. London, 1890. $0.80 Edwards. 900 Examination Questions and Answers for Engineers and Firemen (Stationary and Marine), who desire to obtain a U. S. Govern- ment or State License. A new, revised, and enlarged edition. 32mo, mor. Philadelphia, 1897. $1.50 Grimshaw. Steam Engine Catechism. A Series of Direct Practical Answers to Direct Practical Questions. Mainly intended for Young En- gineers. i8mo. New York, 1897. $2.00 Grimshaw. The Engine Runner's Catechism. Telling how to Erect, Adjust, and Run the principal Steam Engines in use in the United States. Illustrated. i8mo. New York, 1898. $2.00 Hawkins. Maxims and Instructions for the Boiler Room. Useful to Engineers, Firemen, and Mechanics, relating to Steam Generators, Pumps, Appliances, Steam Heating, Practical Plumbing, etc. 184 illustrations. 8vo. New York, 1899. $2.00 Aids to Engineers' Examinations. Prepared for Applicants of all Grades with Questions and Answers. A Summary of the Principles and Practice of Steam Engineering. I2mo, leather, gilt edge. New York, 1894. $2.00 Reynolds. The Engineman's Pocket Companion and Practical Educator for Engineman, Boiler Attendants, and Mechanics. Illustrated. i6mo, London, 1886. $1.40 Roper. Instructions and Suggestions for Engineers and Firemen who wish to Procure a License, Certificate, or Permit to take charge of any class of Steam Engines or Boilers, Stationary, Locomotive, and Marine. i8mo, mor. Philadelphia, 1894. $2.00 LIST OF BOOKS. Rose. Key to Engines and Engine-running. A Practical Treatise upon the Management of Steam Engines and Boilers for the use of those who desire to pass an examination to take charge of an engine or boiler. I2mo, cloth. New York, 1899. $2.50 Questions and Answers for Engineers. This little book contains all the questions that Engineers will be asked when undergoing an exami- nation for the purpose of procuring licenses, and they are so plain that any Engineer or Fireman of ordinary intelligence may commit them to memory in a short time. 5th edition. i8mo, mor. Philadelphia. $2.00 Stephenson. Illustrated Practical Test Examination and Ready Refer- ence Book for Stationary, Locomotive, and Marine Engineers, Firemen, Electricians, and Machinists, to procure Steam Engineer's license. i6mo, Chicago, 1892. $1.00 Stromberg. Steam User's Guide and Instructor. Plain and Correct Ex- planations in regard to Engines, Pumps, Dynamos, and Electricity. Prac- tically, so that Engineers, Machinists, Firemen, and Electricians of Lim- ited Education can understand and become expert practical engineers. i6mo. St. Louis, 1894. $i-$ Watson. How to Run Engines and Boilers. Practical Instruction for Young Engineers and Steam Users. 2d edition. Illustrated. i6mo. New York, 1896. $i.ob Zwicker. Practical Instructor in questions and answers for Machinists, Firemen, Electricians, and Steam Engineers. 24mo. St. Louis, Mo., 1898. $1.00 LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERING. Grimshaw. Locomotive Catechism. Containing nearly 1,300 Questions and Answers Concerning Designing and Constructing, Repairing and Running Various Kinds of Locomotive Engines. Intended as Exami- nation Questions and to Post and Remind the Engine Runner, Fireman, or Learner. 176 illustrations. I2mo. New York, 1898. $2.00 Hill. Progressive Examinations of Locomotive Engineers and Firemen. i6mo. New York, 1891. $0.50 Meyer. Modern Locomotive Construction. 1,030 illustrations. 4to. New York, 1894. $10.00 Phelan. Air Brake Practice, being a description of the construction, ob- jects sought, and results obtained, by the Westinghouse automatic air brake, as well as complete directions for operating it under the many diverse conditions in daily practice. 3 large folding plates. I2mo. New York, 1890, $1.00 D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. Reagan. Locomotive Mechanism and Engineering. i2mo, with 145 il- lustrations. New York, 1898. $2.00 Reynolds. Locomotive Engine Driving. A Practical Manual for Engi- neers in charge of Locomotive Engines. 8th edition, enlarged. i2mo. London, 1892. $1.40 The Model Locomotive Engineer, Fireman, and Engine Boy : Com- prising a Historical Notice of the Pioneer Locomotive Engines and their Inventors. I2mo. London, 1895. $:.8o Continuous Railway Brakes. A Practical Treatise on the several Systems in use in the United Kingdom ; their Construction and Perform- ance. Numerous illustrations and tables. 8vo. London, 1882. $3.60 Engine Driving Life : Stirring Adventures and Incidents in the Lives of Locomotive Engine Drivers. 2'd edition, with additional chapters. I2mo. London, 1894. $0.80 Rogers. Pocket Primer or Air Brake Instruction. Stiff paper cover. $0.50 Roper. Hand-Book of the Locomotive; including the construction of engines and boilers and running of locomotives. 15th edition, revised. I2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $2.50 Sinclair. Locomotive-Engine Running and Management. A Practical Treatise on Locomotive Engines, showing their performance in running different kinds of trains with economy and Despatch. Also, directions regarding the care, management, and repairs of Locomotives and all their connections. Illustrated by numerous engravings. 2ist edition, revised. I2mo. New York, 1899. $2.00 Stretton. The Locomotive Engine and its Development. A Popular Treatise on the Gradual Improvements made in Railway Engines be- tween the years 1803 and 1892. Illustrated. I2mo. 3d edition. Lon- don, 1896. $1.50 Synnestvedt. Diseases of the Air Brake System. Their Causes, Symp- toms, and Cure. Illustrated. I2mo. 1894. $1.00 Woods. Compound Locomotives. 2d edition, revised and enlarged by D. L. Barnes. 8vo. Illustrated. Chicago, 1894. $3.00 MACHINE TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. Harrison. The Mechanic's Tool Book, with Practical Rules and Sugges- tions for Machinists, Iron Workers, and others. I2mo. New York, 1882. $1.50 LIST OF BOOKS. Hasluck. The Mechanics' Work-shop Handy Book. A Practical Man- ual on Mechanical Manipulation. Embracing Information on Various Handicraf. Processes, with Useful Notes and Miscellaneous Memoranda. I2mo. London, 1895. $0.50 Knight. Mechanician. A Treatise on the Construction and Manipulation of Tools, for the Use and Instruction of Young Engineers and Scientific Amateurs. 4th edition. 410. London, 1888. $7.25 Lukin. Young Mechanic. Containing directions for the use of all kinds of Tools and for construction of Steam Engines and Mechanical Models, including the Art of Turning in Wood and Metal. Illustrated. I2mo. New York. $i-75 Rose. Complete Practical Machinist. Embracing Lathe Work, Vise Work, Drills and Drilling, Taps and Dies, Hardening and Tempering, the Making and Use of Tools, Tool Grinding, Marking out Work, etc. Illustrated by 356 engravings, igth edition, greatly enlarged. I2mo. Philadelphia, 1899. $2.50 Shelley. Work-shop Appliances. Including descriptions of some of the Gauging and Measuring Instruments, Hand Cutting Tools, Lathes, Drill- ing, Planing, and other Machine Tools used by Engineers. loth edition, with an additional chapter on Milling, by R. R. Lister. Illustrated. I2mo. London, 1897. $1.50 Smith. Cutting Tools worked by Hand and Machine. 14 plates and 51 illustrations. 2d edition. I2mo. London, 1884. $1.50 Usher. Modern Machinist. A Practical Treatise on Modern Machine Shop Methods, describing in a comprehensive manner the most Approved Methods, Processes, and Appliances Employed in Present Practice, etc. 257 illustrations. I2mo. New York, 1895. $2.50 Watson. Modern Practice of American Machinists and Engineers. i2mo. Illustrated. Philadelphia, 1892. $2.50 MECHANICAL DRAWING AND MACHINE DESIGN. Andre. Draughtsman's Hand-Book of Plan and Map Drawing; including Instructions for the preparation of Engineering, Architectural and Me- chanical Drawings, with numerous illustrations, and colored examples. 8vo. London, 1891. $3-75 Appleton's Cyclopaedia of Technical Drawing. Embracing the Principles of construction as applied to Practical Design. With numerous illustra- tions of Topographical, Mechanical, Engineering, Architectural, Perspec- tive, and Free-hand Drawing. 8vo, leather. New York, 1887. $9.00 D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. Armengaud, Amoroux, and Johnson. Practical Draughtsman's Book of Industrial Design, and Machinists' and Engineers' Drawing Companion. Forming a Complete Course of Mechanical, Engineering, and Architectu- ral Drawing, with additional matter and plates, selections from and ex- amples of the most useful and generally employed mechanism of the day. Illustrated by fifty folio steel plates, and fifty woodcuts. New edition. 410, half mor. Philadelphia, 1892. $6.00 Barber. Engineers' Sketch Book of Mechanical Movements, Devices, Ap- pliances, Contrivances, Details employed in the Design and Construction of Machinery for every Purpose. Collected from numerous sources and from actual work. Classified and arranged for reference. Nearly 2,000 illustrations. 8vo. London, 1897. $4.00 Building and Machine Draughtsman. A practical guide to the projection and delineation of subjects met with in the practice of the engineer, machinist, and building constructor, etc. ; by practical draughtsmen. I2mo. London, 1891. $2.00 Burns. Illustrated Architectural Engineering and Mechanical Drawing Book. For the use of Schools, Students, and Artisans. loth edition, revised and corrected, with additional sections on important departments of the art. Svo. 284 illustrations. New York, 1893. $1.00 Davidson. Drawing for Machinists and Engineers. Comprising a com- plete course of Drawing adapted to the requirements of Millwrights and Engineers ; also, course of practical instruction in the coloring of me- chanical drawings. 4th edition. i6mo. London. $1-75 Donaldson. Drawing and Rough Sketching for Marine Engineers, with Proportions, Instructions, Explanations, and Examples ; also How to De- sign Engines, Boilers, Propellers, Paddle Wheels, Shafts, Rods, Valves, etc. 6th edition. Illustrated. London, 1899. $3.00 Faunce. Mechanical Drawing, prepared for the use of the students of the Mass. Institute of Technology. 2d edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated and 8 plates. I2mo. Boston, 1898. $1.25 Fox and Thomas. A Practical Course in Mechanical Drawing. Being a Course of Progressive Lessons illustrated with many diagrams and figures especially adapted to use of schools, colleges, etc. I2mo, cloth. Illustrated. New York, 1899. $1.25 Halliday. First Course in Mechanical Drawing (Tracing). Folio, paper. London, 1889. $O-75 Mechanical Graphics. A second course in Mechanical Drawing, with preface by Professor Perry. Svo. London, 1889. $2.00 Hulme. Mathematical Drawing Instruments and How to Use Them. 4th edition. i2mo ? New York, 1890. $i.o LIST OF BOOKS. Low and Bevis. Manual of Machine Drawing and Design. 3d edition, 753 illustrations. 8vo. London, 1898. $2.50 MacCord. Practical Hints for Draughtsmen. Illustrated with 68 dia- grams and full page plates. 3d edition, 410. New York, 1890. #2.50 Mechanical Drawing. Progressive Exercises and Practical Hints. For the use of all who wish to acquire the Art, with or without the aid of an Instructor. 232 illustrations. 410. New York, 1895. $4.00 Kinematics, or Practical Mechanics. A Treatise on the Transmis- sion and Modification of Motion and the Construction of Mechanical Movements. For the use of Draughtsmen, Machinists, and Students of Mechanical Engineering, in which the laws governing the motions and various parts of Mechanics, as affected by their forms and modes of con- nection, are deduced by simple geometrical reasoning, and their applica- tion is illustrated by accurately constructed diagrams of the different mechanical combinations discussed. 4th edition. 8vo. New York. 1896. $5-oo Mahan and Thompson. Industrial Drawing. Comprising the Descrip- tion and Uses of Drawing Instruments, the Construction of Plane Fig- ures, the Projections and Sections of Geometrical Solids, Architectural Elements, Mechanism, and Topographical Drawing. Revised and en- larged, and chapter on Colored Topography added. 30 plates. 8vo. New York, 1890. $3. 50 Minifie. Mechanical Drawing. A Text-Book of Geometrical Drawing, for the use of Mechanics and Schools, in which the Definitions and Rules of Geometry are familiarly explained : the Practical Problems are ar- ranged from the most simple to the more complex, and in their descrip- tion technicalities are avoided as much as possible. With illustrations for Drawing Plans, Sections, and Elevations of Buildings and Machin- ery; an Introduction to Isometrical Drawing, and an Essay on Linear Perspective and Shadows. Illustrated by over 200 diagrams, engraved on steel. With an Appendix on the Theory and Application of Colors. 8vo. New York, 1893. $4-oo Geometrical Drawing. Abridged from the octavo edition, for the use of Schools. Illustrated with 48 steel plates, gth edition. Revised and enlarged. I2mo. New York, 1890. $2.00 Palmer. Mechanical Drawing, Projection Drawing, Geometric and Oblique Drawing, Working Drawings. A Condensed Text for Class Room use. 8vo. Columbus, O. 1894. $i.QO D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. Ripper. Machine Drawing and Design for Technical Schools and Engi- neer Students. Being a complete course of Instruction in Engineering Drawing, with Notes and Exercises on the Application of Principles to Engine and Machine Design, and on the Preparation of Finished Col- ored Drawings. Illustrated by 52 plates and numerous explanatory drawings. 8vo. London, 1897. 6.00 Roberts. Drawing and Designing for Marine Engineers. 2 1 large fold- ing plates and many other illustrations throughout the text. Svo. Lon- don, 1898. $3.00 Rose. Mechanical Drawing Self-Taught. Comprising Instructions in the Selection and Preparation of Drawing Instruments, Elementary In- struction in Practical Mechanical Drawing, together with Examples in Simple Geometry and Elementary Mechanism, including Screw Threads, Gear Wheels, Mechanical Motions, Engines and Boilers. Illustrated by 330 engravings. 4th edition, revised. Svo. Philadelphia, 1898. $4.00 Shaw. Mechanical Integrators. Including the various Forms of Pla- nimeters. iSmo, boards. Illustrated. New York, 1886. $0.50 Smith. Graphics, or the Art of Calculation by Drawing Lines, applied especially to Mechanical Engineering. Part I. Text, with Separate Atlas of Plates Arithmetic, Algebra, Trigonometry, Vector and Lecor Addi- tion, Machine Kinematics, and Statics of Flat and Solid Structures. Svo. London, 1888. $5.00 Stanley. Descriptive Treatise on Mathematical Drawing Instruments, their Construction, Uses, Qualities, Selection, Preservation, and Sugges- tions for Improvements, with Hints upon Drawing and Coloring. 5th edition. I2mo. London, 1878. $2.00 Tomkins. Principles of Machine Construction ; being an application of Geometrical Drawing for the Representation of Machinery. Text I2mo, Plates 4to. New York. $3. 50 Unwin. Elements of Machine Design. Part I. General Principles, Fas- tenings, and Transmissive Machinery. i6th edition. I2mo. London, 1898. $2.00 Part II. Chiefly on Engine Details. I2mo. 131*1 edition, revised and enlarged. London, 1895. $1.50 Warren. Elements of Machine Construction and Drawing : or, Machine Drawing, with some elements of descriptive and rational kinematics. Z vols. Text and plates. 8vo New York. $7.50 LIST OF BOOKS. MECHANICAL ENGINEERS' HAND-BOOKS. Adams. Hand-Book for Mechanical Engineers. 2d edition. Revised and enlarged, izmo. London, 1897. $2.50 Appleton's Cyclopaedia of Applied Mechanics : a Dictionary of Mechani- cal Engineering and the Mechanical Arts. Edited by Park Benjamin. Nearly 7,000 illustrations. Revised and improved edition. 2 vols. Svo, leather. New York, 1893. $15.00 Bale. Steam and Machinery Management : A Guide to the Arrangement and Economical Management of Machinery, with Hints on Construction and Selection. Illustrated. 2d edition. I2mo. London, 1890. (Weale's Series.) $1.00 Benjamin. Wrinkles and Recipes. Compiled from the Scientific Ameri- can. A collection of Practical Suggestions, Processes, and Directions, for the Mechanic, Engineer, Farmer, and Housekeeper. With a Color Tempering Scale and Numerous Wood Engravings. 4th revised edition. I2mo. New York, 1894. $2.00 Byrne. Hand-Book for the Artisan, Mechanic, and Engineer. Compris ing the Grinding and Sharpening of Cutting Tools, Abrasive Processes, Lapidary Work, Gem and Glass Engraving, Varnishing and Lackering Apparatus, Materials and Processes for Grinding and Polishing, etc. Svo. Illustrated. Philadelphia, 1887. $5.00 Carpenter. Text-Book of Experimental Engineering. For Engineers and for Students in Engineering Laboratories. 249 illustrations. 5th revised edition. Svo. New York, 1898. $6.00 Chordal. Extracts from Chordal's Letters. Comprising the choicest selections from the Series of Articles w r hich have been appearing for the past two years in the columns of the American Machinist. With over 50 illustrations. I2mo. New York, 1898. $2.00 Clark. Manual of Rules, Tables, and Data for Mechanical Engineers, based on the most recent investigations. With numerous Diagrams. 6th edition. 1,012 pages. London, 1897. $5-OO Mechanical Engineers' Pocket-Book of Tables, P'ormulae, Rules, and Data. A Handy-Book of Reference for Daily Use in Engineering Prac- tice. i6mo, mor. London, 1893. $3-oo Dixon. The Machinists' and Steam Engineers' Practical Calculator. A compilation of useful Rules and Problems, arithmetically solved, to- gether with general information applicable to Shop Tools, Mill Gearing, Pulleys and Shafts, Steam Boilers and Engines. Embracing valuable Tables and Instructions in Screw Cutting, Valve and Link Motion. 2d edition. i6mo, mor., pocket form. New York, 1892. #1.25 D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. Engineering Estimates, Costs, and Accounts. A Guide to Commercial Engineering. With numerous Examples of Estimates and Costs of Mill- wright Work, Miscellaneous Productions, Steam Engines and Steam Boilers, and a Section on the Preparation of Costs Accounts. By a Gen- eral Manager. 8vo. London, 1890. $4.80 General Machinist, Being a Practical Introduction to the Leading Depart- ments of Mechanism and Machinery, the Communication of Motion or the Transmission of Force by Belt, Rope, Wire Rope, and Pulley Gearing Toothed- Wheel and Frictional Gearing ; together with the details of the component and essential parts of mechanism - Shafts, Pedestals, Hanger, Clutches, etc., and of the methods of fitting up Machines, Screw Bolts, Riveting, etc. By various practical writers and machinists. 75 illustrations and 4 folding plates. 8vo. London, 1891. $2.00 Grimshaw. Hints to Power Users. Plain, Practical Pointers, free from high Science, and intended for the man who pays the bills. I2mo. New York, 1891. $1.00 Hasluck. Mechanic's Workshop Handy-Book. A Practical Manual on Mechanical Manipulation. Embracing Information on Various Handi- craft Processes, with Useful Notes, and Miscellaneous Memoranda. i2mo. London, 1888. $0.50 Haswell. Engineers' and Mechanics' Pocket Book, Containing Weights and Measures, Rules of Arithmetic, Weights and Materials, Latitude and Longitude, Cables and Anchors, Specific Gravities, Squares, Cubes, and Roots, etc. ; Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids, Trigonometry, Me- chanics, Friction, Aerostatics, Hydraulics and Hydrodynamics, Dynamics, Gravitation, Animal Strength, Windmills, Strength of Materials, Limes, Mortars, Cements, etc. ; W T heels, Heat, Water, Gunnery, Sewers, Com- bustion, Steam and the Steam Engine, Construction of Vessels, Miscel- laneous Illustrations, Dimensions of Steamers, Mills, etc.; Orthography of Technical Words and Terms, etc. 62d edition. Revised and enlarged. I2mo, mor. tuck. New York, 1899. $4.00 Hawkins. Hand-Book of Calculations, for Engineers and Firemen ; re- lating to the Steam Engine, the Steam Boiler, Pumps, Shafting, etc. Illustrated. 8vo. New York, 1898. $2.00 Button. Works Manager's Hand-Book of Modern Rules, Tables, and Data for Civil and Mechanical Engineers, Millwrights, and Boiler Makers, Tool Makers, Machinists, and Metal Workers, Iron and Brass Founders, etc. 5th edition, revised, with additions. 8vo, half-bound. London, 1895. $6.00 LIST OF BOOKS. Hutton. Practical Engineer's Hand-Book. Comprising a Treatise on Modern Engines and Boilers, Marine, Locomotive, and Stationary, and containing a large Collection of Rules and Practical Data Relating to Recent Practice in Designing and Constructing all kinds of Engines, Boilers, and other Engineering Work. 5th edition, carefully revised, with additions. 370 illustrations. 8vo. London, 1896. $7-oo Kent. Mechanical Engineers' Pocket-Book. A Reference Book of Rules, Tables, Data, and Formulae, for the Use of Engineers, Mechanics, and Students. 1,087 pages. I2mo. New York, 1899. $5.00 Knight. American Mechanical Dictionary. A Descriptive Word Book of Tools, Instruments, Chemical and Mechanical Processes; Civil, Me- chanical, Railroad, Hydraulic, and Military Engineering. A History of Inventions. General Technological Vocabulary, and Digest of Mechani- cal Appliances in Science and the Industrial and Fine Arts. 3 vols. Illustrated, 8vo. Boston, 1884. $24.00 Supplement to the above, $9.00 The 4 vols., complete, $27.50 Lock-wood's Dictionary of Terms used in the Practice of Mechanical En- gineering. Embracing those current in the Drawing Office, Pattern Shop, Foundry, Fitting, Turning, Smiths' and Boiler Shops, etc., comprising upwards of 6,000 definitions. Edited by a Foreman Pattern Maker. I2mo. London, 1888. $3.00 Molesworth. Pocket-Book of Useful Formulae and Memoranda for Civil and Mechanical Engineers. 23d edition, revised and enlarged. Pocket- book form. London, 1899. $2.00 Moore. Universal Assistant and Complete Mechanic : Containing over One Million Industrial Facts, Calculations, Receipts, Processes, Trade Secrets, Rules, Business Forms, Legal Items, etc. Illustrated. I2mo. New York. $2.50 Nystrom's Pocket-Book of Mechanics and Engineering. Revised and corrected by W. D. Marks. 2Oth edition. Greatly enlarged. I2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1895. $3. 50 Rankine. Useful Rules and Tables relating to Mensuration, Engineering Structures, and Machines. 7th edition, thoroughly revised by W. J. Millar. With Electrical Engineering Tables, Tests, and Formulae for the use of Engineers, by Prof. A. Jamieson. I2mo. London, 1889. $4-o Roper. Engineers' Handy-Book. Containing a full explanation of the Steam Engine Indicator, and the Use and Advantage to Engineers and Steam Users. With Formulas for estimating the Power of all Classes D. VAN NOSTRAKD COMPANY. of Steam Engines ; also Facts, Figures, Questions, and Tables, for Engi- neers who wish to qualify themselves for the United States Navy, the Revenue Service, the Mercantile Marine, or to take charge of the better class of stationary Steam Engines. Illustrated. I4th edition. i6mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1899. $3-5O Scribner. Engineers' and Mechanics' Companion. Comprising United States Weights and Measures, Mensuration of Superfices and Solids; Tables of Squares and Cubes; Square and Cube Roots; Circumference and Areas of Circles ; the Mechanical Powers ; Centres of Gravity ; Gravi- tation of Bodies ; Pendulums ; Specific Gravity of Bodies ; Strength, Weight, and Crush of Materials ; Water-wheels, Hydrostatics, Hydraulics, Statics, Centres of Percussion and Gyration ; Friction Heat ; Tables of the Weight of Metals, Scantling, etc. ; Steam and Steam Engine. 2Oth edition, revised. i6mo, full mor. New York, 1890. $1.50 Spons' Tables and Memoranda for Engineers, and convenient reference for the pocket. loth edition, 64mo, roan, gilt edges. London, 1889. In cloth case. $0.50 Mechanics' Own Book. A Manual for Handicraftsmen and Ama- teurs. Complete in one large vol., 8vo, containing 700 pp. and 1,420 illustrations. 2d edition. London, 1898. $2.50 Dictionary of Engineering. Civil, Mechanical, Military, and Naval, with Technical Terms in French, German, Italian, and Spanish. 8 vols. 8vo, cl. London, 1874. Each, $5.00 Supplement to above. 3 vols., cl. London, 1881. Each, $5.00 Templeton. Practical Mechanics' Workshop Companion. Completing a great variety of the most useful Rules and Formulae in Mechanical Science, with numerous Tables of Practical Data and Calculated Results for Facilitating Mechanical Operations. 1 7th edition, revised, modernized, and considerably enlarged, by Walter S. Hutton. i6mo, leather. Lon- don, 1895. $2.00 Engineers', Millwrights', and Mechanics' Pocket Companion. Comprising Decimal Arithmetic, Tables of Square and Cube Roots, Prac- tical Geometry, Mensuration, Strength of Materials, Mechanical Powers, Water Wheels, Pumps and Pumping Engines, Steam Engines, Tables of Specific Gravity, etc. Revised, corrected, and enlarged from the 8th Eng- lish edition, and adapted to American Practice, with the addition of much new matter. Illustrated by J. W. Adams. I2mo, mor. tucks. New York, 1893. $2.00 LIST OF BOOKS. Van Cleve. English and American Mechanic. An every-day Hand-Book for the Workshop and the Factory. Containing Several Thousand Re- ceipts, Rules, and Tables indispensable to the Mechanic, the Artisan, and the Manufacturer. A new, revised, enlarged, and improved edition. Edited by Emory Edwards, M.E. I2mo. Philadelphia, 1893. $2.00 MECHANICS (ELEMENTARY AND APPLIED). Church. Notes and Examples in Mechanics ; with an Appendix on the Graphical Statics of Mechanism. 128 illustrations and 6 plates. 8vo. New York, 1897. $2.00 Cotterill. Applied Mechanics, an Elementary General Introduction to the Theory of Structures and Machines. Illustrated. 3d edition. 8vo. London, 1895. #5.00 and Slade. Lessons in Applied Mechanics. i2mo. London, 1894. Net $1.2$ Dana. A Text-Book of Elementary Mechanics for the use of Colleges and Schools. loth edition. I2mo. New York, 1898. $i-5 DuBois. Elementary Principles of Mechanics. Designed as a Text-Book for technical schools. 3 vols. 8vo. New York. Vol. I. Kinematics. $3.50 Vol. II. Statics. $4-o Vol. III. Kinetics. $3-5 Garnett. Treatise on Elementary Dynamics. For the use of Colleges and Schools. 5th edition. 8vo. London, 1889. Net $1.50 Geldard. Statics and Dynamics. Illus. i2mo. London, 1893. #1.50 Goodeve. Principles of Mechanics. New edition, rewritten and enlarged. I2mo. London, 1889. $ 2 -5 Manual of Mechanics. An Elementary Text-Book for Students of Applied Mechanics. Illustrated. I2mo. London, 1881. $0.80 Hancock. Text-Book of Mechanics and Hydrostatics. With over 500 diagrams. 8vo. New York, 1894. $ J -75 Hughes. Condensed Mechanics : a selection of Formulas, Rules, Tables, and Data for the Use of Engineering Students, Science Classes, etc., in accordance with the requirements of the Science and Art Department. I2mo. London, 1891. $1.00 Jamieson. Elementary Manual of Applied Mechanics. Specially ar- ranged for the use of First Year Science and Art, City and Guilds of London Institute, and other Elementary Engineering Students. 1 2mo. London, 1898. $ l - 2 $ >. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. Kennedy. Mechanics of Machinery. With numerous illustrations. i2mo. London, 1886. $3-S Kinematics of Machinery; or, The Elements of Mechanism. i6mo, boards. New York, 1881. 0.50 Nystrom. New Treatise on Elements of Mechanics. 8vo. Philadelphia, 1875. # 2 - Perry. Applied Mechanics. Illustrated. i2mo. London, 1898. $2.50 Practical Mechanics. Being the Fourth Volume of " Amateur Work Il- lustrated." Plates and illustrations. 4to. London. $3.00 Rankine. Applied Mechanics, comprising Principles of Statics, Cinemat- ics, and Dynamics, and Theory of Structures, Mechanism, and Machines. I2mo. 1 5th edition, thoroughly revised, by W. J. Millard. London, 1898. $5.00 and Bamber. Mechanical Text-Book ; or, Introduction to the Study of Mechanics and Engineering. With numerous diagrams. 4th edition, revised. 8vo. London, 1890. $3. 50 Stahl and Woods. Elementary Mechanism. A Text-Book for Students of Mechanical Engineering. 7th edition, revised and enlarged. Illus- trated. I2mo. New York, 1896. $2.00 Weisbach. Theoretical Mechanics, with an introduction to the Calculus. Translated from the fourth German edition by E. B. Coxe. 8th edition, revised. 8vo. New York, 1889. $10.00 Vol. II., Part i. Hydraulics and Hydraulic Motors. $5.00 Vol. II., Part 2. Heat, Steam, and Steam Engines. $5-OO Vol. III., Part i. Kinematics and Machinery of Transmission. $5.00 Vol. III., Part 2. Machinery of Transmission and Governors. $5.00 Wood. Elements of Analytical Mechanics. With numerous examples and illustrations. For use in Scientific Schools and Colleges. 7th edi- tion, revised and enlarged, comprising Mechanics of Solids and Mechanics of Fluids, of which Mechanics of Thirds is entirely new. 8vo. New York, 1897. $3.00 Principles of Elementary Mechanics. Fully illustrated, gth edition. I2mo. New York, 1894. $1.25 Wright. Text-Book of Mechanics. With numerous examples. 3d edi- tion. I2mo. New York. $2.50 LIST OF BOOKS. MISCELLANEOUS. Amateur Mechanic's Workshop. A Treatise containing plain and concise directions for the manipulation of Wood and Metals, including Casting, Forging, Brazing, Soldering, and Carpentry. By the author of " The Lathe and its Uses." 7th edition. Illustrated. 8vo. London, 1888. $3.00 Saunders. Compressed Air Production. Rules, tables, and illustrations relating to the Theory and Practice of Air Compression and Compressed Air Machinery. Illustrated. 8vo. New York, 1898. $1.00 Smith. Workshop Management : a Manual for Masters and Men, com- prising a few Practical Remarks on the Economic Conduct of Workshops. 3d edition. I2mo. London, 1883. $0.80 Plympton, Prof. Geo. W. How to become an Engineer ; or, the Theo- retical afld Practical Training necessary in fitting for the Duties of the Civil Engineer. (Van Nostrand's Science Series). $0.50 STEAM AND STEAM ENGINES. Alexander. Model Engine Construction. With Practical Instructions to Artificers and Amateurs. Containing numerous illustrations and twenty- one Working Drawings, from Original Drawings by the Author. I2mo. London, 1895. $3-oo Baker. Treatise on the Mathematical Theory of the Steam Engine. With Rules at length and Examples worked out, for the use of practical men, with numerous diagrams. 8th edition. London, 1890. $0.60 Bale. How to Manage a Steam Engine ; a Handbook for all who use Steam. Illustrated, with examples of different Types of Engines and Boilers ; with Hints on their Construction, Working, Fixing, Economy of Fuel. etc. 7th edition. i2mo. London, 1890. $0.80 Bourne. Catechism of the Steam Engine in its various Applications to Mines, Mills, etc. New edition, enlarged. Illustrated. I2mo. New York, 1897. $2.00 Hand-Book of the Steam Engine, containing all the Rules required for the right Construction and Management of Engines of every Class, with the easy Arithmetical Solution of those Rules. Illustrated. I2mo. New York. 1892. $i-75 Burn. Steam Engine, its History and Mechanism. 3d edition. 8vo. Illustrated. London, 1857. $1.00 D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. Clark. Steam and the Steam Engine, Stationary and Portable. (Being an Extension of the Elementary Treatise on the Steam Engine, of Mr. John Sevvell.) 4th edition. London, 1892. $i .40 The Steam Engine. A Treatise on Steam Engines and Boilers ; comprising the Principles and Practice of the Combustion of Fuel, the Economical Generation of Steam, the Construction of Steam Boilers, and the principles, construction, and performance of Steam Engines, Stationary, Portable, Locomotive, and Marine, exemplified in Engines and Boilers of recent date. Illustrated by above 1 ,300 figures in the text, and a series of folding plates drawn to scale. 2 vols. 8vo. London, 1895. #15.00 Colyer. Treatise on Modern Steam Engines and Boilers, including Land, Locomotive, and Marine Engines and Boilers. For the use of Students. With 46 plates. 4to. London, 1886. $5.00 Cotterill. Steam Engine considered as a Thermodynamic Machine. A Treatise on the Thermodynamic Efficiency of Steam Engines. Illus- trated by tables, diagrams, and examples from practice. 3d edition, re- vised and enlarged. 8vo. London. 1896. net $4.50 Diesel. Theory and Construction of a Rational Heat Motor. Translated from the German by Bryan Donkin. With eleven figures in the text and three plates. Svo. London, 1894. #2.50 Edwards. American Steam Engineer, Theoretical and Practical. With Examples of the latest and most approved American Practice on the De- sign and Construction of Steam Engines and Boilers of every description. For the use of Engineers, Machinists, Boiler Makers, etc. Illustrated by 77 engravings. I2mo. Philadelphia, 1893. $2.50 Practical Steam Engineers' Guide in the Design, Construction, and Management of American Stationary, Portable, and Steam Fire Engines, Steam Pumps, Boilers, Injectors, Governors, Indicators, Pistons, and Rings, Safety Valves and Steam Gauges. For the use of Engineers, Firemen, and Steam Users. Illustrated. 3d edition, revised and cor rected. 12 mo. Philadelphia, 1898. #2.50 Evers. Steam and other Prime Movers. A Text-Book both Theoretical and Practical. Illustrated. I2mo. London, 1890. $1.50 Steam and the Steam Engine ; Land, Marine, and Locomotive II lustrated. I2mo. New York. $1.00 Ewing. Steam Engine and other Heating Engines. Illustrated. 8 vex Cambridge, 1897. #3-75 LIST OF BOOKS. Goodeve. Text-Book on the Steam Engine. With a Supplement on Gas Engines and on Heat Engines. I2th edition, enlarged. I2mo. 143 illustrations. London, 1893. $2.00 Gould. Arithmetic of the Steam Engine. i2mo. N. Y. 1898. $1.00 Grimshaw. Steam Engine Catechism. A series of direct practical an swers to direct practical questions, mainly intended for young engineers and for examination questions. loth edition, enlarged and improved. i8mo. New York, 1897. $2.00 Haeder. Hand-Book on the Steam Engine with especial Reference to Small and Medium sized Engines. For the Use of Engine Makers, Me- chanical Draughtsmen, Engineering Students, and Users of Steam Power. 1,100 illustrations. i2mo. London, 1896. $3-oo Henthorn. Corliss Engine and its Management. Edited by E. P. Watson. 3d edition, enlarged with an appendix, by Emil Herter. Illustrated. i8mo. New York, 1897. $1.00 Holmes. Steam Engine. 212 illustrations. loth edition. I2mo. London, 1898. $2.00 This is a complete practical and theoretical treatise on the steam-engine, written in very clear and beautiful style, rendering the more abstruse principles of the subject as plain and simple as it is probably possible to make them. It is one of the best, if not the best, combinations of theoretical investigation and practical applications in the whole lite- rature of the subject, and forms an admirable companion to Ripper's smaller and more exclusively practical treatise. Jamieson. Text-Book of Steam and Steam Engines. loth edition, with numerous diagrams, four folding plates and examination questions. I2tno. London, 1897. $3.00 Elementary Manual on Steam and the Steam Engine. With nu- merous diagrams, arithmetical examples, and examination questions. I2mo. London, 1898. $1.40 Lardner. Treatise on ths Steam Engine, for the use of Beginners. i6th edition. Illustrated. London, 1893. $0.60 Le Van. Steam Engine and the Indicator ; their Origin and Progressive Development, including the most recent examples of Steam and Gas Motors, together with the Indicator, its Principles, its Utility, and its Ap- plication. Illustrated by 205 Engravings, chiefly of Indicator Cards. 8vo. Philadelphia, 1892. $4.00 Mallet. Compound Engines. i6mo, boards. New York, 1884. $0.50 Marks. Relative Proportions of the Steam Engine. i2mo. Illustrated. 3d edition. Philadelphia, 1896. $3.00 Peabody. Table of the Properties of Saturated Steam and other Vapors. 8vo. New York, 1888. #1.00 D. VAN NOSTKAND COMPANY, Pray. Steam Tables and Engine Constants. For facilitating all calcu- lations upon Indicator Diagrams or Various Problems connected with the operation of the Steam Engine, from reliable data and with precision compiled from Regnault, Rankine, and Dixon directly, making use of the exact records. 8vo. New York, 1894. $2.00 Rankine. Manual of the Steam Engine and other Prime Movers, with numerous tables and illustrations. I2mo. ijth edition. London, 1897. $5.00 Rigg. Practical Treatise on the Steam Engine, containing Plans and Arrangements of Details for Fixed Steam Engines, with Essays on the Principles involved in Design and Construction. Copiously illustrated with woodcuts and 96 plates. 4to. 2d edition. New York, 1894. $10.00 Ripper. Steam. Illustrated. I2mo. London, 1889. $1.00 This work is based upon a course of lectures given to an evening class of young me- chanical engineers on steam, steam-engines, and boilers. It is remarkably clear, concise, and practical ; no superfluous matter is introduced, and every page goes directly to the point. It is the best book for beginners, and also for those who wish to have a manual embracing the practical features of the subjects in small compass. Roper. Hand-Book of Modern Steam Fire Engines ; including the run- ning, care, and management of Steam Fire Engines and Fire Pumps. 2d edition, revised and corrected by H. L. Stellwagen. Illustrated. I2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $3-5 Hand-Book of Land and Marine Engines, including the Modelling, Construction, Running, and Management of Land and Marine Engines and Boilers, gth edition, revised, enlarged, and improved. i2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $3-5 Catechism of High Pressure or Non-Condensing Steam Engines, including the Modelling, Constructing, Running, and Management of Steam Engines and Steam Boilers. 2Oth edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated. i2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $2.00 Young Engineer's Own Book. Containing nn Explanation of the Principle and Theories on which the Steam Engine as a Prime Mover is based, with a description of different kinds of Steam Engines, Condens- ing and Non Condensing, Marine, Stationary, Locomotive, Fire, Trac tion, and Portable. 106 illustrations. 3d edition, revised. 16 mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $3.00 Rose. Modern Steam Engines. An Elementary Treatise upon the Steam Engine, written in Plain Language ; for use in the Workshop as well as in the Drawing Office. Giving Full Explanations of the Con- LIST OF BOOKS. struction of Modern Steam Engines; including Diagrams showing their Actual Operation ; together with Comr^te but Simple Explanation of the Operations of various kinds of "^Wes, Valve Motions, and Link Motions, etc., thereby enabling the o^Rary engineer to clearly under- stand the Principles involved in their (Bistruction and use, and to Plot out their movements upon the Draw* Board. New edition, revised and improved. 453 illustrations. 4td^ Philadelphia, 1897. $6.00 Key to Engines and Engine Running. A Practical Treatise upon the Management of Steam Engines and Boilers, for the use of those who desire to pass an Examination to take Charge of an Engine or Boiler. With numerous Illustrations and Instructions upon Engineers' Calculations, Indicator Diagrams, Engine Adjustments, and other Valu- able Information necessary for Engineers and Firemen. I2mo. N.Y. 1899. $2.50 Thurston. History of the Growth of the Steam Engine. 4th revised edition. Illustrated. I2mo. New York, 1897. $2.50 Manual of the Steam Engine. For Engineers and Technical Schools. Part I. Structure and Theory. Illustrated. 8vo. New York, 1897. ^ ;> $6.00 Part II. Design, Construction, and Operation. Illustrate^ 8vo. New York, 1897. #6. Or in sets. $10. Hand-Book of Engine and Boiler Trials, and of the Indicator and Prony Brake, for Engineers and Technical Schools. Illustrated. 8v^| New York, 1897. $5.00 Stationary Steam Engines, Simple and Compound, especially as adapted to Electric Lighting Purposes. 5th edition, revised, with addi- tions. Illustrated. I2mo. New York, 1893. $2.50 Turnbull. Treatise on the Compound Engine. 2d edition, revised and - enlarged by Prof. S. W. Robinson. i6mo, boards. New York, 1884. $0.50 Watson. Small Engines and Boilers. A Manual of Concise and Specific Directions for the Construction of Small Steam Engines and Boilers of Modern Types from five horse-power down to model sizes. I2mo, cloth. Illustrated with numerous diagrams and half tone cuts. New York, 1899. $1.25 Weisbach. Heat, Steam, and Steam Engine. Translated from the 4th edition of Vol. II. of Weisbach's Mechanics. Containing notes giving practical examples of Stationary, Marine, and Locomotive Engines, showing American practice, by R. H. Buel. Numerous illustrations. 8yo. New York, 1891. $5.00 D. VAX NOSTRAND COMPANY. Whitham. Steam Engine Design. For the use of Mechanical Engi- neers, Students, and* Draughtsmen. 3d edition, revised. With 210 illustrations. 8vo. New York, 1898. $5.00 Descriptive Treatise on Constructive Steam Engineering, embra- cing Engines, Pumps, and Boilers, and their accessories and appendages. Illustrations and many folding plates. Svo. New York, 1897. $6.00 Yeo, John. Steam and the Marine Steam Engine. Svo. London, 1894. $2.50 This book is intended more particularly for engineers of the Royal Navy, but will be exceedingly useful to those of ths mercantile mari ic as well. It is almost entirely de- scriptive, and is noteworthy for what it omits as well as for what it contains. Although treating exclusively of the marine engine and boiler, there is so much i;i it that is general to all branches of steam engineering, and the whole is so well and clearly expressed, and shows such a profound knowledge of the subject, that it cannot foil to be of the highest value to the general student. TRANSMISSION OF POWER, BELTING, ETC. Compressed Air. Experiments upon the Transmission of Power by Compressed Air, in Paris (Popp's System), and the Transmission and Distribution of Power from Central Stations by Compressed Air. Illus- trated. i6mo. New York, 1892. $0.50 Toothed Gearing. A Practical Hand-Book for Offices and Workshops. By a Foreman Pattern Maker. 184 illustrations. I2mo. London, 1892. $2.50 Unwin. On the Development and Transmission of Power from Central Stations. Being the Howard lectures delivered at the Society of Arts in 1893. Illustrated. Svo. New York, 1894. $3. 50 VALVES AND VALVE GEARS. Auchincloss. Practical Application of the Slide- Valve and Link-Motion to Stationary, Portable, Locomotive, and Marine Engines, with new and simple methods for proportioning the parts. Illustrated, ijth edition, revised and enlarged. Svo. New York, 1897. $2.0x3 Bankson. Slide Valve Diagrams. A French Method of Obtaining Slide Yalve Diagrams. 8 Plates. i6mo. New York, 1892. $0.50 Buel. Safety Valves. i6mo, boards. New York, 1876. $0.50 Halsey. Slide Valve Gears ; an explanation of the action and construc- tion of plain and cut-off slide valves. Analysis by the Bilgram Diagram. 79 illustrations. 3d edition, I2mo. New York, 1894. 51.50 LIST OF BOOKS. Le Van. Safety Valves ; Their History, Antecedents, Invention, and Calculation. 69 Illustrations. I2mo. New York, 1892. $2.00 MacCord. Treatise on the Movement of the Eccentric upon the Slide Valve, and explaining the Practical Process of Laying out the Move- ments, adapting the Valve for its various duties in the Steam Engine, for the Use of Engineers, Draughtsmen, Machinists, and Students of Valve Motion in general. 2d edition. 4to. Illustrated. New York, 1883. $2.50 Peabody. Valve Gears and Steam Engines. 33 Plates. 8vo. New York, 1898. $2.50 Rose. Slide Valve Practically Explained. Embracing Simple and Complete Practical Demonstrations of the Operations of each Element in a Slide- Valve Movement, and illustrating the effects of variations in their proportions, by examples carefully selected from the most recent and successful practice. Illustrated. I2mo. Philadelphia, 1895. $1.00 Spangler. Valve Gears. 2d edition, revised and enlarged. 8vo. New- York, 1898. $2.50 Welch. Treatise on a Practical Method of Designing Slide Valve Gear- ing by Simple Geometrical Construction, based upon the principles enun- ciated in Euclid's Elements, and comprising the various forms of Plain Slide Valve and Expansion Gearing; together with Stephenson's, Gooch's, and Allen's Link Motions, as applied either to reversing or to variable expansion combinations. I2mo. London, 1875. $ l -5 Zeuner. Treatise on Valve Gears, with Special consideration of the link motions of locomotive engines. 4th edition. Translated by Prof. J. F. Klein. 8vo. London, 1884. $5- E.<5F.N.SPON,L 125, STRAND. 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