GIFT OF 'OFESSOR r..A. (Yf SPORTING SKETCHES. irate rob BY THE OLD BUSHMAN, ,- AUTHOR OF "BUSH WANDERINGS IN AUSTRALIA," "TEN YEARS IN SWEDEN," ETC. f? WITH ORIGINAL ILLUSTRATIONS BY G. BOWERS. in LONDON : FREDERICK WARNE AND CO. BEDFORD STREET, COVENT GARDEN. NEW YORK : SCRIBNER, WELFORD AND CO. AU GIFT 0?. PROFESSOR C.A, KOFOID LONDON : SAVILL, EDWARDS AND CO., PRINTERS, CHANDOS STREET, COVENT GARDEN. PREFACE. THE following Sketches have already for the most part appeared in the columns of The Field newspaper j the one entitled " Lost in the Bush," in the Intellectual Observer. By the kindness of the editors of that newspaper and journal, the author has now gathered them together into a volume, and presents them to his friends as old acquaintances. He thinks it right to observe, that every chapter in this book is strictly matter of fact, except the sketches entitled "My First Steeple Chaser," "The Trotter," "The Jibber," "The Best Fourteen Hander in England," and " The Poacher j" in which (although events took place much as read, and in which every character is drawn from life) the author has, for obvious reasons, deemed himself justified in mystifying names and localities, and colouring plain facts. M217G51 PUBLISHER'S PREFACE, MEMOIR OF THE "OLD BUSHMAN. 3 WE sincerely regret to inform our readers that during the time arrangements were being made for the publication of " Sporting Sketches," an accident fatal in its results deprived the Author of his life, and so prevented his anticipated pleasure of revising this work through the press. It fell, however, into sympathetic hands, and it is hoped that the public will kindly excuse under the circumstances any shortcomings. By the kind permission of the proprietors of the "Field" Newspaper, we insert a Memoir of the "Old Bush- man." HORACE WILLIAM WHEELWRIGHT, known as a constant con- tributor to the columns of this journal under the nom de plume of the "Old Bushman," was the second son of the Rev. C. A. Wheelwright, rector of Tansor, Northamptonshire, and of Castle and Little Bytham, in Lincolnshire, and prebend of Lincoln Cathe- dral. He was born at Tansor on January 5th, 1815, and died on November i6th, 1865, in the fiftieth year of his age. He was educated at the Reading Grammar School, under Dr. Valpy. He was brought up to the profession of the law, and practised as a solicitor at Thrapston, Northamptonshire, between 1843 and 1847. From a boy, however, he expressed a strong disinclination to "settle" vi Publisher's Preface, and in the quiet work of a profession. He was fond of all kinds of field sports, and had a yearning for a life of wild adventure j we therefore find him, in 1847, an exile from his native land and a wanderer among the wild mountains, woods, and lakes of Sweden and Norway. The details of this part of his life are entirely wanting. In 18^1 he went to Australia, and lived some years on the banks of the Murray, as a wandering sportsman in the bush. After his return to Europe he wrote and published his first work a small book entitled "Bush Wanderings of a Naturalist; or, Notes on the Field Sports and Fauna of Australia Felix, by an Old Bushman," a new edition of which is now issued.* From the introduction of this interesting little book we copy the following : "Six years' rambling over the forests and fells of Northern Europe had totally unfitted me for any settled life. I had no luck in the diggings. The town was out of the question ; and to keep the wolf from the door there were but two alternatives to seek work in a situation, or face the bush on my own account. I chose the latter, and never regretted that choice. I luckily fell in with a mate in the same circumstances as myself. The gun had often brought both of us 'to grief in the Old World, so we agreed that for once it should help us out in the New. Our tastes were similar. The sphere of life in which we had both moved at home had been the same, and therefore all those little disagreements and collisions which are the inevitable consequences when men of dif- ferent education, training, and tastes are shut up together in the close companionship of a bush tent, were avoided. For nearly four years did we rough it under the same canvas, with scarcely a single dispute, and very rarely even ' a growl.' We had, it is true, hardships to contend with, but we never met troubles half way. * London : Frederick Warne and Co. Memoir of the fc Old Bushman." vii We took the rough with the smooth, and whether game was plen- tiful or scarce, generally had a fair share of it. Many a happy day did we pass together in the forest. Many a good bag of game we brought home ; and often, though thousands of miles now separate us, do my thoughts fly back to the old bush tent and the old com- rades left behind me ; and the chequered scenes of a wild forest life crowd upon my mind like the vision of yesterday." This yearning after the wild bush life of Australia is characteristic of that love of adventure which formed a strong feature in the " Old Bushman's " character. Oftentimes during the last four years, in his letters to the writer of this notice, has he expressed a strong desire to go back again and "leave his bones" in the Australian bush. To the details of his Australian life there are several references in one of his other works 5 but the " Bush Wanderings " is an interesting work, which all naturalists should possess. In 1856 the " Old Bushman " returned to Sweden, and took up his residence at Gardsjo, near Carlstadt, where he devoted himself to the life of a working naturalist, and there is no doubt that by his perseverance and enterprise he has added some valuable facts to natural history. In 1860 he commenced his connexion with The Field, and con- tinued one of its most welcome contributors to the day of his death. In 1862 he passed a spring and summer in Lapland for the pur- poses of natural history. Of the nature of this journey he writes : " Lulea, Lap., April 14, 1862. We have safely reached this place after a cold, tedious, troublesome, and expensive journey of nearly three weeks, being about 1000 English miles, in open sledges. It certainly has been the most laborious trip I ever took in my life, but I hope it will lead to some good results, although I cannot expect it will pay me after poor Wolley. I am just off to Quickiock. viii Publisher's Preface, and The country looks gloomy enough to make one shudder gloomy pine woods and snow-covered plains ; but I saw two swans yester- day, and as the reindeer are getting very restless, and the Laps are moving up to the fells, spring will soon break upon us." The result of this visit was, on the whole, very satisfactory. " I have collected," he writes (Quickiock, Aug. 4, 1862), "550 bird- skins, 800 eggs, 1000 lemmings, and above 1000 insects, and a lot of other odds and ends not bad work for two of us in less than four months." Among the scientific facts worked out during the journey, the same letter above quoted contains the following : " Contrary to all our naturalists' dicta, the lesser European sparrow owl (Strix passerina, Linn.) does breed here, and I have got the eggs. More- over, I shot three flyers the other day, one of which I have saved for you." The life of a working naturalist within the Arctic circle, is not, however, all pleasure for a little further on he remarks : " I long to be back once more among my books, for my life now is that of a savage. I have never seen a book for four months nothing but the slavery of, day after day, first shooting and then skinning." We in England do not sufficiently value specimens obtained by such personal sacrifice as this. In 1864 the " Old Bushman" brought out his largest and most im- portant work, entitled "TenYears in Sweden," a thick octavo volume,* The first half of the work consists of a description of the habits and customs of the Swedes, their agriculture, universities, nobles, clergy, &c. ; and also contains the fullest instructions to those who wish to enjoy the sports of the field, loch, and river in that country. The re- mainder of the work is a valuable compilation of the vertebrate fauna of Scandinavia, interspersed here and there with original remarks. * London : Groombridge and Sons. Memoir of the cc Old Bushman" ix It is a very valuable list to those who do not read the Swedish language. The letters received from Mr. Wheelwright during the past summer, express the pleasure he anticipated from an intended visit to England in the autumn. With the exception of one or two short and flying trips, he had not seen the land of his birth for nearly twenty years 5 and his heart, in his wild northern solitude, warmed with affection towards the good old country where his boyish and happiest days had been passed. How that visit termi- nated we all know too well. It is hardly necessary to dwell upon particulars. A little circumstance occurred, however, prior to his fatal accident, which illustrates forcibly the apparently trifling grounds upon which our life or death depends. Mr. Wheelwright was at The Field office on the afternoon of the 7th of November, and seemed anxious to get down that evening to his brother's at Crowhurst. One of the gentlemen connected with the office pointed out to him that he had three-quarters of an hour to spare, that he might jump into a cab, get round for his luggage, and still be in time for the train. The poor " Old Bushman " hesitated, and, thinking he should not be able to accomplish it, decided to pass the night in London. Next morning, hearing of the arrival of his natural history specimens from Sweden, he resolved to stay until they were unpacked. When on his way to see about this, he slipped down in the street, and a hernia, from which he had suffered for years, thereby became strangulated. In this condition he went to his brother's house, was obliged to submit to the operation for its relief, and sank three days afterwards. It is needless to dwell upon the character and literary qualifica- tions of our deceased friend -, all who are familiar with his writings possess the same means of judging. He was less a scientific naturalist than one of those pioneers who, by their adventure and x Publisher's Preface, and Memoir. daring, clear up points which would otherwise remain doubtful. He was not an accomplished scholar, but he was an apt observer, and had powers of description possessed by very few. The sunrise in Lapland, the details of his being lost in the snow, and the lifelike descriptions contained in his " Sporting Sketches," can hardly, we will venture to say, be surpassed. Readers, we think, will be most amused by his " Bush Wanderings " and " Summer in Lapland," just as they will be most instructed by the perusal of his " Ten Years in Sweden " but in none of his works will they find more originality more, in fact, of those qualities which mark the man of genius than in his "Sporting Sketches." But the "Old Bushman" was more than we have described him. He was a kind-hearted, highly principled, honourable, manly fellow, beloved by all who knew him, and long to be held in cherished remembrance. Peace to his ashes ! He is buried in Crowhurst Churchyard, beneath an ancient yew, one of the few that have become historical by their antiquity. Decandolle and others have reckoned it to be fourteen hundred years old j and under its venerable shadows we must feel that our departed friend, who loved nature so well, has found a worthy resting-place. CONTENTS. Page A BEAR HUNT IN NORDLAND. WITH A DESCRIPTION OF BEAR HUNTING J SWEDEN. A SHORT DESCRIPTION OF THE LANDSCAPE, FAUNA, AGRICULTURE, AND FIELD SPORTS OF THAT COUNTRY. WITH A FEW NOTES ON THE ICHTHYOLOGY OF THE GREAT LAKE WENERN, AND SOME REMARKS ON THE NORTHERN SALMON RIVERS 6 DUCK-SHOOTING IN WERMLAND, SWEDEN $6 MY FIRST STEEPLE-CHASER 7 1 THE TROTTER 1^5 THE FISHING DAY *7" THE BEST FOURTEEN-HANDER IN ENGLAND 185 THE KEEPER'S TREE 2I 9 THE RABBIT BATTUE > 2 3 MY LAST DAY IN THE FEN 2 43 DID YOU EVER DRIVE A JIBBER DOWN TO A FIGHT ? . *57 THE LEATHER PLATER 2 75 THE POACHER 334 Xll Contents. Page 363 GUN ACCIDENTS ON THE ENCOURAGEMENT OF MANLY AND ATHLETIC EXER- CISES, SUCH AS SPARRING 5 AND A FEW WORDS IN DEFENCE OF THE MUCH-ABUSED CUSTOM OF BRITISH BOXING 377 THE WRECK 392 THE AUSTRALIAN BUSH 11 SPORTING SKETCHES, A BEAR HUNT IN NORDLAND. WITH A DESCRIPTION OF BEAR HUNTING. THE following description of a bear hunt in Nordland, in the winter of 1864, extracted from the Hernosand Post, will show that the chase of the Swedish bear is not altogether unattended with danger. The writer says : Time after time has the Hernosand Post alluded to the damage which has been suffered by the cattle in the Shelleftea and the neighbouring parishes through the attacks of bears, and of the various bear hunts which have taken place in this district j and the following little history will prove what adventures the bear-hunter will occasionally suffer, especially when he goes out to attack the bear single-handed, or accompanied only by one or two comrades. The narrator, a good old bear-hunter himself, was wont to call this " a bear-dance," and a lively dance it must have been. On the 37th Dec., 1863, s ^ x hunters, peasants in the neighbour- hood (more daring than prudent, although tolerably well armed with guns and spears, and accompanied by two hounds coupled up), set off to attack a she-bear, which, after having been hunted from one fell to another, had eight days previously been "ringed in"* on Graininge Fell, not far from Shelleftea. They seemed to have apprehended little danger, and having * "Ringing" a bear is making a large circle round the place where the animal was last seen, and proving that it must be somewhere within theciicle. Ed. -7/ B 2 A Bear Hunt in Nordland. separated, they wandered carelessly within the circle of the ring to endeavour to find out the bear's winter-quarters j but one of the peasants, who had unconsciously come within a gunshot of her "ide," woke the bear up, and she suddenly rushed out upon him, seized him, and inflicted three deep wounds on his body one on the thigh, another on the arm, just above the wrist, and a third on the face, which completely scalped his forehead, the skin hanging down over his eyes. During the struggle one of the hunters ran up and shot at the bear; but his gun missed fire, which was probably lucky, for in the melee he was just as likely to have shot his comrade as the bear. She immediately left the wounded man, rushed upon the other hunter like lightning, gave him a deep gash on one thigh, and mangled his head so that the hair and skin were torn off for a width of four inches. This man was so injured, that he was obliged to be carried home on a sledge, before they got his wounds dressed. A third hunter, who had by this time come up, attacked the bear with his spear j but in the hurry and confusion of the moment he planted it so badly that the steel point glanced off the thick hide of the bear. Suddenly the head of the hunter dashed against that of the bear, and he immediately shoved one hand down her throat and seized fast hold of the roots of her tongue, and with the other belaboured her lustily about the nose and head. The bear, now more than ever irritated by the punish- ment she was receiving at this man's hands, rose upon her hind legs and challenged him to a wrestling bout. The peasant, who, like many others of these peasants, was a good and strong wrestler, closed in with the bear and gave her a very clean back fall. Astonished more than ever at such unlooked-for treatment, the bear became nearly mad with rage, and uttering a tremendous growl, she at once sprung up and rushed upon the fourth hunter. He was, however, an old hand, and planting the butt of his spear firmly on the ground, with the head slanting out towards the bear, he waited quietly for her attack. Blind with rage she came carelessly on, the sharp blade of the spear went right through her heart, and she fell dead without a groan. The two hounds, of A Bear Hunt in Nordland. 3 whom the hunters thought a great deal, kept at a respectful distance till the bear fell dead. The old bear was followed by three young cubs about a year old, which of course shared the fate of the mother, but without giving the hunters so much trouble. The old she-bear was a very large specimen, yielding not less than loolb. of fat, arid a skin about eight feet long. It is not, however, that we often hear of an accident happening in a bear hunt, especially unless the bear is wounded. It is a common idea here that in attacking a man the bear never uses his paw to strike with like a lion or tiger, which, however, is always the case when it falls upon horses or cattle. Moreover, it is not always the bear's custom when rushing on a man to raise himself on his hind legs, as is generally supposed ; but he more often comes in end on end like a fierce dog. There is not much danger incurred from the bear itself in the " skalls," as they are carried on in the mid- land districts, when a couple of hundred or more men assemble and drive the forests up to the beaters 5 but much more to be appre- hended from the shooters themselves. In the northern forests and fells, however, where men are scarce, the hunters often attack the bear single-handed, or with, at most, one comrade, and the chase of the bear then becomes a hazardous and exciting sport. It is princi- pally in the autumn when the bears lay up in their "ide," or winter quarters, or in the spring, when they wake up from their winter's sleep, that they are killed. Two of these northern peasants, on skiddor (or snow skates), will sally out in pursuit of a bear, whose footsteps have been tracked in the snow, armed, perhaps, with a small pea rifle of the most primitive make, and which carries a ball of about forty to the pound (and yet a bear has often been known to fall dead from one shot, if hit in the right place), but also with a spear, upon which the hunter places his chief reliance, and which to my idea is a far more formidable weapon. This spear consists of a tough pole about ten feet long, armed at the top with a four- cornered steel spike, nearly a foot long, the point and edges as keen as a razor (which is always, when not in use, kept in a sheath), and B 2 4 A Bear Hunt in Nordland. a strong cross-bar of iron, about eighteen inches long, across the shaft, just under the steel spear. They follow the bear till they bring it to bay, and then attack it. They always try to force the spear into its breast or under the shoulder, right through the heart. As soon as the spear is well in, the hunter plants the end of the shaft firmly into the ground, and holds the spear strongly in an upright slanting position, the bear all the while pressing more and more on to the spear, endeavouring to grapple with the man, but prevented by the cross-bar. As long as the spear stands there is little danger, but the life of the hunter now entirely depends upon his good spear. His comrade, if he has one, now attacks the bear also with his rifle or spear, but if the hunter is alone and they will always, if possible, be alone, because then there is no other to share the spoil he finishes the bear as well as he can. I have generally seen the shafts in Lapland made of mountain ash. It must, how- ever, be rather a nervous time for a man, face to face with an en- raged monster, and only a slight shaft, and then a steel bar, between himself and eternity ; and a man must be possessed of a pretty good share of personal courage who dares to attack a bear single-handed with such a weapon j and yet these northern settlers and little Lap- landers often do so. I used to be much amused at seeing the old parish clerk up at Quickiock, a noted bear-hunter, rehearse the pantomime of a bear hunt, with myself as bear. He was a very little, active old fellow, of about sixty, and he used to hop round me brandishing his spear, the shaft of which was covered with scratches and bites, till he would at times become so excited that I used to beg him to con- clude the performance, lest by chance he might forget that he was only rehearsing a play, and had a man instead of a living bear before him. These rehearsals used to remind me much of some other re- hearsals of a rather different sort, when I used to have to stand up in quite another character, the reader will be puzzled to guess Molyneux, the black prizefighter, and before poor old Tom Cribb. I first knew this veteran when he kept a public-house in Panton- street, but things went wrong with the old boy ; and missing him A Bear Hunt in Nordland. 5 from his parlour in Panton-street, I traced him to obscure lodgings somewhere in Soho, where I used often to pay him a visit. He was confined to his room with rheumatic gout, or something of the sort, but still could hobble about. It seemed as if he was deserted by all his friends, and very hard-up j but his room was filled with trophies of the past, and among them I recollect a silver cup which the old man would fill with ginger-wine, of which he was very fond ; and I used to drink this wine out of the champion's cup, and listen to his description of past scenes in which he had been so stirring an actor. Till his great battle with Molyneux came upon the carpet, old Tom would sit quietly enough in his easy chair, only now and then nourishing, and making occasional passes into empty space at some unseen and imaginary opponent. His defeat by one Nicholls he dismissed very summarily, by the trite but energetic observation, that if he had only been in condition, " he could have pumped thunder on fifty Nicholls'sj" but when he came to Moly- neux, nothing but a tableau vivant would suffice. I had to repre- sent the black, and after I had been placed in approved position by old Tom (with my head thrown forward, my left arm straight out, my left fist almost level with my chin), the old man would throw himself into attitude before me, and, despite his bandaged legs and rheumatics, would show me how he dashed the black's left arm aside, and inflicted that tremendous jaw-breaker which won the fight. " Gently, Tom, play light," I used to sing out as the old man became excited j and his fist used to come in dangerous proximity with my head, as he showed me how he finished off his formidable opponent with his favourite one, two. It was a rich play, but one which I was always prudent enough to rehearse upon ginger-wine. "When I go into that question, sir," observed a pompous old stump orator once to me in Australia, who was for closing all the ports, and leaving the colonists to depend solely on their own resources, " I become excited, but I could argue it for hours, sir, upon coffee." And so it was with me. I hardly know which might have been most dangerous, the old Lapland bear- hunter's spear, or old Tom Cribb's fist, if either play had been re- nearsed upon anything stronger than ginger-wine or coffee. SWEDEN. A SHORT DESCRIPTION OF THE LANDSCAPE, FAUNA, AGRICULTURE, AND FIELD SPORTS OF THAT COUNTRY. With a few Notes on the Ichthyology of the Great Lake Wenern, and some Remarks on the Northern Salmon Elvers. IT is no easy task to endeavour to give a good general description of the climate, scenery, or fauna of a country like Scandinavia, which extends from 55 to 71 N. lat., and occupies an area of nearly 300,000 square English miles, diversified with every descrip- tion of landscape, from the low flat sandy plains and open turf mosses of the south, and the dense pine forests of the midland dis- tricts, to the barren fells of the north, whose snow-capped summits afford a scanty sustenance to nothing but the wild reindeer and the ptarmigan. Over so wide a surface we must expect to find soil of every description ; and it is the diversity of landscape that adds the great charm to travelling through these northern climes. Still, rich as it is in natural productions, rich as it is in every branch of its fauna, it is a land comparatively little known to the English traveller, while almost every other part of the Continent, whose natural beauties can scarcely surpass this country in the summer, are as well known to the British tourist as the woods and glades of merry England. Before proceeding into more minute details respecting the agri- culture and natural productions of the land, it will be as well to cast a slight glance at the fauna of this interesting country, and the Sweden. 7 general reader can then be enabled to form an idea of the character of this wide-stretched land of " flood and fell." Scarcely another country in Europe possesses so many attractions to the naturalist as this ; for the varied nature of the landscape, with so few inhabitants scattered over its surface, mark it as a fitting home for such of the rarer species of quadruped and bird as delight in solitude and retirement j whilst its vast extent of coast, its mag- nificent rivers, and innumerable inland lakes, must render it one of the greatest interest to the ichthyologist. Most of the larger and wilder species of the European mammalia are to be met with in one part or another of this immense continent. The elk finds shelter in the midland forests, the reindeer on the northern fells j the bear, the lynx, the glutton, and the wolf are no strangers in the northern and midland districts -, and the marten-cat, the fox, and the squirrel abound in every part of the country. Unfortunately the beaver is now nearly extinct, and the only memento we have of this interest- ing animal consists in an occasional deserted beaver-dam in some of the wildest of the northern forests. Strange to say, the wild cat is unknown here. It is on account of the country having so wide and varied a sur- face that we find so manifest a difference in its fauna ; and this is still further supported when we consider the nature of the land open downs, deep forests, sandy flats, ironbound rocks, and, in the very north, snow-covered fells. These last must exercise a great in- fluence on the fauna of the north, for every species of animal must have its limit from the region of perpetual snow. Nilsson, with his usual acumen, divides Scandinavia into separate regions for different animals and plants. Beginning from the very top of the fells, and following by degrees in a southerly direction the tracts which lie below them, we shall find that certain species of animal as well as plant are only to be met with on the highest fells, among perpetua snow-drifts j 'and also that other species are met with only in those tracts far removed from the fells themselves j and this will hold good whether we divide these regions in a vertical or horizontal direction with this difference, that the regions in the latter are 8 Sweden. much broader than in the former. After these remarks, we will divide the land into the following regions for plants and animals : 1. The perpetual snow region, which extends from the tops of the highest snow-fells down to the first bushes. In this region the only vegetation are a few ice-plants, lichens, and mosses ; and the animals which belong to them are the glutton, the white fox, the northern hare (Lepus lorealis), the reindeer, and the common weasel. 2. In the willow and birch region, the lemming, two or three field-mice, the fox, the wolf, the bear, the stoat, the common field- mouse, the little shrew (Sorex pygmceus}, and one bat (Vesper tilio borealis}. 3. Pine and fir region : long-eared bat, parti-coloured bat, the water-shrew, the lynx, the martin, the otter, the long-tailed field- mouse, the common mouse, three or four species of lemming, the squirrel, the elk, and the red deer. 4. The oak region, reckoning from that tract where the oak first grows : the great bat, the hedgehog, the common rat, the grey hare (Lepus canescens), the polecat, and the badger. 5. The beech region : Barbastell bat, mole, dormouse, and roe-deer. 6. In such tracts where the black mulberry can ripen (Skania) : Here they find fossil remains of the wild boar (Ursus spelceus), beaver, the southern species of reindeer, Bos Urus, B.frontosus, B. longifrons, and B. bison. And, as regards the ornithology of the country, we shall see the haunts of the several species of birds just as clearly defined : 1. In the snow region we find the snow bunting, BurFon's skua, the wheatear, the raven, the rough-legged buzzard, the snowy owl, the short-eared owl, the ptarmigan, the white-fronted goose, the golden plover, the redshank, the dunlin, the purple sandpiper, the common gull, and the herring gull (by the fell lakes), and four or five species of diving duck. Nilsson takes his fell tract in West Norway, 60 N. lat. 2. In the willow and birch region, the meadow pipit, the blue- throated warbler, the brambling, the mealy redpole, the black- Sweden. 9 headed bunting, yellow wagtail, willow wren, redwing, ring ouzel, redstart, marsh titmouse, Siberian titmouse, water ouzel, willow grouse, common sandpiper, common snipe, hooper, bean goose, wild duck, and teal. 3. In the pine and fir region, the fieldfare, the Siberian jay, the greenfinch, siskin, chaffinch, crested tit, coletit, great black wood- pecker, three-toed woodpecker, gold-crest, wren, the crossbills, the redbreast, garden warbler, song thrush, tree pipit, capercailzie, black grouse and hazel hen. 4. In the cultivated districts, the hooded crow, ortolan bunting, yell'ow bunting, white wagtail, common sparrow, magpie, and swallow. Thus we shall see that the vegetation as well as the fauna of this country has its defined limits 5 for, beginning with the cultivated districts in the bottom of the fells, where many of the trees and bushes peculiar to Britain are met with, we come (ascending the fell sides) first to the fir district and then to the pine. Above these we find the birch, and, higher up, the willow and fell birch. Above this we come to the district where nothing but lichen and moss can grow ; and, above all, lies the region of perpetual snow. The botanist can judge for himself what a field is here open to him j and it is no wonder that Sweden is able to boast of many well versed in this science, and the study of the entomologist goes hand-in-hand with it. But, to the geologist and lover of antiquarian lore, Scandinavia possesses still richer attractions. Judging from the fossil remains preserved in the museums of the country, many animals, now extinct, in former days inhabited the south of Sweden ; and the bones of antediluvian monsters, which are yearly dug up in the turf mosses of Skania, are evidences of bygone ages. It is easy to carry the reflecting mind back to the period before man appeared on the face of the globe, when probably the waves rolled over the greater part of this land, and we can figure to ourselves monstrous fishes then peopling the waters, and reptiles of misshapen and hideous growth, drawing their slow length along the slimy oozes of the fens. Pass we on to a later date, when the whole face of the country io Sweden. gradually changed; the wild bull tossed his mane in these then secluded forests, the wild sow farrowed in security in regions un- trodden by the foot of man, and thousands of gigantic elk and red deer roamed at will over the oak forests and wide prairies of southern Sweden. "Whatever," observes Dr. Johnson "whatever withdraws us from the power of our senses, whatever makes the past, the distant, or the future predominate, over the present, advances us in the dignity of thinking beings;" and whoever takes an interest in the history of the early ages of mankind, will here find much to occupy his attention and his thoughts. The rude implements of the chase, and the barbarous weapons of war, carry the mind back to ages when the battle and the chase formed man's constant and only employments. Huge barrows and cairns, and rude but stupendous monuments of stone, mark the site of many an ancient battle-field, or the last resting- place of the old Scandinavian warrior and king; and the rude hieroglyphics cut in the rocks on many parts of the coast, are mementoes at the present day of those savage barbarians who, in the early days of Christianity, spread fire and desolation over so great a portion of Europe; when the "viking's" bark spread her sails before the wind, and bore the dreaded sea-pirate to the opposite shores of Britain. Our task, however, is with the present, and not with the past ; and it only remains for us to add that, let his taste be what it may, whether he be a sportsman, naturalist, or merely a traveller in search of the beauties of nature, the wanderer here will find full employment; and perhaps there is scarcely another country in Europe where a stranger, during the summer months, can travel with so much cheapness, security, and freedom, as in this. But to return to our more immediate subject. As regards the mammalia of Sweden, two hypotheses will hold good as to their introduction into this land. It is supposed, and with good grounds, that this continent at an early period was landlocked with the rest of Europe, before the Baltic and the Bothnia formed a dividing line Sweden. ii of sea. Most of the southern species came over the dry land where the Baltic now flows, and the more northern species, such as the glutton, arctic fox, reindeer, flying squirrel, and some others, came from the tracts lying on the north-east of the Bothnia. Be this as it may, each species seems to be pretty well confined to the limit assigned to it, and only makes occasional migrations to other districts, guided by an instinct which it baffles man's ingenuity to account for. Not so, however, with the ornithology of the north. The migra- tions of the feathered race are much more regular and certain j but it may be remarked that many individuals of the different families which, as a general rule, are only summer migrants to the north of the country, remain stationary in the south of Sweden during the winter, especially if the weather is open ; and many ducks (although the majority leave the country) are to be seen off the southern coast, and even on the midland open waters during that season. Some other species are only partial migrants in the winter from the northern and midland districts to the south of the country, where they remain during the coldest season, and return to their more northerly breeding haunts in the spring. Among these we may mention the hooded crow, an occasional hawk, the jackdaw, nuthatch, mealy redpole, greenfinch, siskin, goldfinch, mountain linnet, chaffinch, purple sandpiper, spotted crake, dabchick, and one or other of the diving ducks and gulls. The few that are to be met with in the north and middle of the country throughout the whole winter are the eagles, Iceland falcons, goshawk, all the owls peculiar to the country (with the exception of the short-eared owl), the raven, magpie, all the wood- peckers except the Picus medius, which is confined at all seasons to the south of the country j the crossbills, pine grosbeak, jay, Siberian jay, the waxwing, titmice, yellow bunting, sparrow, bull- finch, occasional flocks of redwing and fieldfare, and a diving duck or two, if there is any open water j and we may notice three others, whose slender frames appear but ill-fitted to withstand the rigours of a northern winter, but which I have seen in the Wermland 12 Sweden. forests during the severest weather the tree-creeper, the wren, and the gold-crest. Why these little stragglers should remain behind after all their glad companions of summer have flitted to warmer climes has always been a mystery to me. Some few species, such as the hen harrier, the grey plover, the pigmy curlew, knot, sanderling, and bernicle goose, have not as yet, to my knowledge, been detected breeding in Sweden, but are only seen during their migrations to and from their breeding haunts, as is supposed, in more north-easterly latitudes. With the exception of an occasional rare seafowl, whose peculiar home is in the polar seas, there are no regular winter migrants to Scandinavia. Some birds are yearly becoming more scarce in the north, for instance, the shieldrake, bittern, ruff, lapwing, blacktern, black- headed gull, and golden plover ; and, on the contrary, one or two other species are gradually spreading themselves more widely over the face of the country, such as the shore lark, Siberian titmouse, &c. Many of the summer migrants do not appear in the same numbers on each succeeding year. The nutcracker is a striking instance of this fact j and I could never account for this it cer tainly is not altogether owing to a scanty supply of food. That the British fauna is far richer in accidental varieties than that of Scandinavia may be easily accounted for by the fact of the former country being so densely populated and so closely examined, that it is next to impossible for a strange bird to show itself on the British shores without being at once noticed j whereas, such is the wild nature of the Scandinavian landscape, and so thinly are the habitations of man scattered over its surface, that a rare bird may come and go year after year without being observed by any one. But that Scandinavia is much richer than Britain both in species and individuals during the breeding season may be easily supposed when we consider the vast extent of wild uninhabited country abounding in suitable localities for the wilder, and to the British fauna, rarer species of birds, whose shy and retired habits lead them to seek more secluded and secure breeding haunts than any part of Great Britain can afford. We find, therefore, that out Sweden. 13 of nearly 360 species known in Britain, scarce 170 breed in the country, whereas, out of 300 Scandinavian species, above 230 breed in the north. With regard to the Danish fauna, it may be regarded as inter- mediate between that of Great Britain and the north of Europe ; but fewer birds breed there in proportion than in either Sweden or Norway or Great Britain. The climate and general appearance of the country, both in landscape and vegetation, much resemble the British Isles j and I thought I never gazed upon a quieter, richer, or lovelier landscape than when passing through the Belts one summer a few years ago. The country is well adapted to the habits of the southern warblers and many of the waders, and, lying in a direct line, as it were, between Sweden and England, it is more frequently visited by the rarer northern birds than the latter country. The south of Denmark is highly cultivated, and the whole country has a far more pastoral appearance than the opposite shores of Sweden. In the north of Zealand, however, are miles of barren moorland, which, without possessing the rich appearance of the bonnte purple heather of Scotland, are well adapted to the habits of the curlew, golden plover, and many other birds which frequent the British moors. The country, however, is level, and we never, therefore, meet with either species of a ptarmigan peculiar to the northern fells j and the absence of the Swedish pine-forests renders it an unfitting residence for the larger owls and such other species of birds as are peculiar to the forest tracks of Sweden and Norway. That noblest of all game birds, the capercailzie, is unknown in Denmark, and the blackcock is rare ; otherwise the Danish fauna much resembles that of the south of Sweden, from which it is only separated by the Sound, a channel some few English miles broad. There are no rivers to speak of in Denmark, but large ponds,well stocked with the common fresh- water fish. However much the agriculturist may long to linger among the neat pastures of the Danish farmers, it is no country for the naturalist or sportman, who will eagerly hasten on to wilder and Jess-inhabited districts. 14 Sweden. I consider the British coasts, generally speaking, to be much richer in the common sea birds than the southern coasts of Sweden; but the wild " skargord," or rocky clusters of isles which skirt the northern coasts, are the peculiar home of the seafowl, and the immense swamps and morasses, and the countless inland lakes with which the interior of Sweden is studded, afford secure shelter and breeding places for every species of inland aquatic fowl. In the very south of Sweden, where the oak, the beech, and the hazel, usurp the place of the pine and fir kings of the northern forest, the different species of warblers find a home as congenial to their habits as the groves and plantations of England ; and as regards the general fauna of this part of the country, it differs but little from that of Britain. The severity of the northern winter is here little felt, and the spring migrants make their appearance nearly as early as in England, and generally a fortnight before they are to be seen farther up the country, where the snow frequently covers the ground in the end of April. In the midland districts, where pine and fir forests of boundless extent rise on high stony ranges (intersected with plains and valleys of meadow and cultivated land, and dells where the birch, the juniper, and the alder vegetate in rank luxuriance), nearly every species of land bird finds a congenial home ; whilst vast morasses, many of which can never be traversed by the human foot, rivers, and inland lagoons of every size, fringed with the reed, the bulrush, and the candock, abound in every species of wader and aquatic bird, which resort to the north in thousands at the breeding season. It is now that the British naturalist begins to meet with rare and new specimens, and it is now that the eye of the traveller first gazes on the true scenery of the north and more beautiful scenery than Sweden displays during the summer months it would be hard to find. I have wandered over many lands, and have scarcely ever seen a European landscape to vie with this. In the very north the appearance of the whole country becomes gradually wilder and more rugged, and high mountains and barren fells, covered with perennial snow, rising above the limits of vegeta- Sweden. j^ tion, and towering over the pine forests which skirt their sides, are the home of some few of the very rarer and wilder species, whose habits are but little known to us. Having now given a short description of the landscape and general features of the country, we will say a few words on the climate, natural products, agriculture, and field-sports of Scandinavia. It is easy to guess that, from the causes above-named, the tempera- ture of this country is subject to great variations so much so, in fact, that a man may here reside in three climates. It will not be within our present limits to enter upon any description of Lapland j suffice it to say, that in the far north, where the Laplander leads a wandering life, the reindeer are his only riches, and the culture of the soil is not heeded. We may perhaps take the province of Norbotten, lying in 6$ N. latitude, as our northern agricultural limit, and here the farmer has just three months to prepare his ground, sow his corn, let it grow, and gather it into his barn. The summer here is of short duration j but there is no night, and everything springs up by magic, as if to make up for the long winter sleep. The best barley, however, grows up at Calix, in 66 N., and the celebrated alsike clover comes from a parish of that name near Upsala. The real Swedish turnip, or, as it is called here, "Rotabaga," from a place in Dalecarlia, is principally grown here in gardens for culinary purposes. Turnip- growing for agriculture is as yet in its infancy here, and the prin- cipal sorts which are grown for the cattle are the old-fashioned white globe and yellow bullock ; but they are neither by any means extensively cultivated. Of course in a country of such extent and diversity of landscape we may expect as much change in the climate as in the scenery ; and the south, the middle, and the north of Sweden have each a climate peculiar to itself. In the very south it differs little from that of the north of Scotland ; the cold is rarely very severe in winter ; the spring comes on at least a month earlier than in the midland districts, and by the beginning of April all the spring sowing is finished. The country is generally open, and the woods have a true English character. The soil is often 1 6 Sweden. rich and good, but there are many sandy plains and deep turf mosses. Along the coasts of the Baltic and Cattegat are some of the best farming tracts in Sweden. The farming here is not amiss j but no attention is ever paid to cleansing the land, and much ground is lost by the wide stone and mud banks and broad ditches that separate the fields. Land is perhaps taken at, throughout the country, ten shillings per acre, and this, I consider, as too dear. The winters in the south are, however, always colder than in England, and the cattle are all kept up in byres throughout that season j but the southern farmer can work his land nearly a month earlier and later than we can in Wermland, and as a proof of the variability of the clime I may mention that in the Christmas week, 1860, our thermometer, up at Carlstad, was as low as 25 cold Celsius, while at Gothenburg, perhaps 200 miles south, it hardly exceeded 9. As to the farming in the very north, the reader may be able to form his own idea if he reads what I have written above as to the length of the season j and, merely remarking that Wermland is certainly not one of the best districts for farming in the middle of the country, and very much inferior to the south, I shall neverthe- less give a description of the farming in that province, because I know more of it than any other ; and, moreover, my short notices being as it were general ones, will pretty well apply to the Swedish farming throughout the country, allowing for heavier crops in the most favoured districts. In the middle of Sweden the winter is long and severe, the spring delightful, and the summer generally hot and dry. When the thermometer falls as low as 20 Celsius it is considered cold, but is not unfrequently as low as 25 to 30 j farther north 40 is not rare j and the heat in summer is occasionally, but not often, as high as 25 Celsius. The snow generally covers the ground deeply from the beginning of November till April, and this is a long, dull, monotonous season j about six hours' daylight to eighteen of dark. Beautiful as is a winter's landscape, it loses half its charms when we have to gaze upon it for five months 5 and at this season a man can reckon upon getting little outdoor exercise on foot, and often for Sweden. 1 7 two months you can hardly even get into the forests, for the snow is generally too deep j but the sledging is then first-rate. Bleak as the prospect, however, is without, there is nothing cold within ; every country house is thrown open glad reunions of families and social meetings of friends celebrate this festive season. The tinkling of the sledge-bells ring cheerily through the frosty air j and nowhere are the hospitable rights of old Father Christmas more strictly observed than in these northern climes. Now is the time for getting the timber out of the forests and the iron down from the mines. Driving out dung and peat-earth on to the fallows, thrashing and delivering corn, keep the farmer in full occupation daring this season. The cattle are all snug in the byres, gates thrown off the hinges, the tops of the fences scarcely apparent above the snow ; high roads are now little heeded, and short cuts across the country are made for sledging over the snow and frozen lakes as straight as the crow can fly. Nearly all the birds have left for more genial climes, and all nature seems wrapped in a still deep sleep. But sudden as was the change when the cold north wind, drifting over the dreary deserts of the North Cape, buried the landscape beneath its icy mantle, it is no less sudden when the mild west wind of April comes with "healing on its wings," and the first summer migrant appears as the glad harbinger of spring. A few dull misty days, with rain and warm wind, and the whole face of the country changes as if by magic. The trees suddenly burst into leaf, the green rye appears from under the snow, and no one who had looked upon the country a few days back could believe that so much beauty lay hidden beneath the waste of snow. Now all is bustle out of doors animal as well as vegetable life seems suddenly to wake up, and the farmer has not a day to spare in making preparation against another winter, which he knows will surely come again in due season. Although the principal riches of the north are the forests and the iron mines, the country is much dependent upon agriculture ; and to prove that great improvements are yearly taking place, we may judge from the fact that twelve or fifteen years since 36,000 tunna 1 8 Sweden. of corn were yearly imported into the province of Wermland, whereas now the export exceeds the import by 6000 tunna. Every Swedish country gentleman is something of a farmer, living upon and cultivating his own estate. The principal part of his produce goes to the support of his household, and the sale of his surplus corn and timber from his forests covers incidental expenses. Thus he passes his time quietly and happily in the bosom of his family a country gentleman or squire in every sense of the word, with just enough employment to keep his time occupied j and if he is not rich compared to the British landowner, his expenses are much less j and his estate supplies him and his family with all the real necessaries of life. But do not let the reader suppose that the gentleman farmer works here as in England. An inspector or bailiff is kept on every estate ; and, as to the farmer himself, his knowledge is principally theoretical, as no one above the class of a peasant understands much about the practical part of the affair. It is not to be wondered at that we see true pictures of domestic happiness in the Swedish homes, where the members are so much more closely thrown together than in England. Hospitable and kind-hearted, a stranger is treated as " a friend and a brother " wherever he comes. It is much to be regretted that the youth of this country take little or no interest in athletic games, such as cricket, rowing, &c., and the many other outdoor manly exercises in which young England delights (and which, whatever your soft-hearted carpet- knights may say, have tended more than anything else to bring England to the high position she now holds), for a finer, hand- somer race of men than the upper classes in Sweden, take them altogether, it would be hard to find generally large grown, and the average standard certainly above that of the English. And, as to the females, it is without the slightest flattery when I say that I have certainly seen more fine women, in proportion to their numbers, in this country than in any other ; and the proud beauties of England would find it hard to " hold their own " when brought side by side with the fresh, healthy beauty of the north. And, Sweden. ^ rough and uncouth as the Swedish peasants may be, they are as "hard as nails j" and the thought struck me, as I saw about 100 of these hardy foresters marshalled together at an elk " skall," that it must be a bold enemy who would attack such men in their native woods. The Swedish peasant is an original. It has been observed that "a Yorkshireman was the hardest study of man, not even barring a Scotchman ; but a Yorkshire farmer out-Heroded even Herod." For the Yorkshire farmer substitute a " Swedish peasant.'' You need never try to drive him out of his way. If you want anything done for you, you must let him do it after his own fashion j but on one thing you may depend, it will le done. There is something, to my fancy, very sterling and good in the character of the true "bondes" of the north j always civil and friendly, hard-working, cheerful, and honest, he generally farms his own little estate, and nearly always contrives to lay by a little money. He is proverbially inquisitive, and covetous after money ; and it is wonderful, for a trifle, how far he will go to serve you. But the real key to his heart is a glass of corn-brandy. And I may here remark that the principal drink of the country is a fiery kind of spirit distilled from potatoes or rye, about half the strength of our gin. This is called finkel or branvin, and can be bought for about 15. 6d. the Swedish kanna or gallon, which contains four English bottles. This is the nectar of the Swedish peasant j and it has one great advantage in his eye, that he can manage to get comfortably drunk on it for 30?. The Swedish peasant is often a heavy drinker and a heavy swearer. It is singular that, although a drunken peasant is no uncommon sight, it is a very unusual circumstance to see any one of the better class in Sweden intoxicated : they like their social glass, but they do not drink in the business-like manner of the English j and, moreover, somehow or other, they all seem to have found out the secret which an old friend of mine used to say he had been sixty years trying to discover, which was, "when he had had just enough." c 2 2o Sweden. For hard work commend me to a Swedish female servant. Her wages will probably not exceed 30$. per year and a few clothes, and yet on this she contrives to dress well, often to look very smart and pretty j and it is a pleasure to see the cheerful way she goes about her work. Besides the peasant who farms his own land, and who represents the British yeoman, we have still another class, the " torpare," who is, as it were, attached to the estate, and does the principal work of the farm. Every large estate has so many of these " torpare" on it. They have a house and a bit of land on the estate ; and, in consideration, are bound to work so many days in the year for their landlord. This I consider a most objectionable system, for these " torpare" never have a shilling to enter upon their little holding, which is too often in wretched condition. It is generally let far too high, and their day's wages are proportionably low ; they have little time to work their own farm, and as they must buy everything from their landlord, because they scarcely ever are able to go elsewhere, they live completely on the tally system. They are almost always in debt. A poor "torpare" once in debt is never able to work himself out again. The system is certainly good for the landlord, for he gets a hard-working man in return for a wretched house and a poor little patch of land j but I am certain the day labourer would be far more independent and better off here if he received his wages weekly, and hired a small cottage to live in. But labour every year in Sweden is becoming of a higher value. That the Swedish labourer is just now in a better condition than the English labourer, is proved by the fact that in the winter of 1 864 and 1 865, the labourers round us, who were free and not tied down by this " torpare" system, were earning from 8s. to $s. per week. Rye was not above i/. IDS. per quarter, and pork not $s. for 2olb. The religion of Sweden is strictly Lutheran j and the Swedish priests exemplary, hard-working, and too often ill-paid men. There are no religious schisms or dissensions in this country, and the priests are far more respected among the peasants than at home. The education of the poor is much better looked after, and no one can Sweden. 21 take the sacrament without having first read with the priest. The consequence is, that nearly every peasant can read and write all can read j and this, I think, is rather a clincher against the argu- ment that it is not prudent to teach the working classes too much. Nowhere do we see a more honest, hard-working, quiet race of men, taking them in general, than the peasants here. Even " in his cups "he is pleasant and good-natured ; and there certainly is not in this country one-third of the crime in proportion to the number of inhabitants, which we hear of in England. It is very difficult to give any idea of the value of property here. Very little is rented j almost every Swedish proprietor farms his own land. Estates are, however, always in the market ; and a man with capital has no trouble to suit himself, and often at his own price. I have seen a 2000 acre farm, in Wermland, sold for 2ooo/., and many others, not half the size, for double the sum. I should say, however, that ^/. per acre would buy most of the estates in Wermland j and $s. to IQS. per acre (when lands are let) is, perhaps, the standard rent ; and, in my opinion, this is their full value, considering the present state of the land. There, is a perfect mania in Sweden for buying estates, and I do not believe there is a landed proprietor here who would not part with his estate, if the price tempted him. Not one estate in 1000 is entailed ; and, as most of the estates are fully mortgaged, and half of them bought on speculation, to be parted with again directly land rises in the market, the landed proprietor in the north does not feel an interest in his land equal to that of the British landowner, .vhose estate has been in his family for centuries. This is the true secret why the farms are made so little of in the north. Scarcely any gentleman thinks of renting a farm his great object is to become a landed proprietor; therefore, if he possesses iooo/. or 2000/., instead of renting just as much land as he can well manage, and throwing his capital into his farm, where he would be sure to get a safe return, he at once buys an estate for from 2ooo/. to 4ooo/., puts what money he has into the purchase, and borrows the remainder at 6 per cent. He has therefore nothing left to 22 Sweden. come in with and improve his farm when he has once entered j and hampered with a debt which keeps him poor, he is unable to make any improvements on his farm which would increase his yearly returns. Of course this is not always the case ; many clear- sighted men will make a good thing of it ; but it is the general rule. If every man (unless, indeed, he saw it was a safe specula- tion) would limit his purchase to half his capital, or rent his land upon a long lease, we should then see agriculture flourish in this land, and not till then. When a man can help his farm, and stick to it, it is sure to give a good return j and this is proved by the peasants, who, notwithstanding their generally slovenly state of cultivation, by careful living and industry always contrive to lay by something. Do not, however, misunderstand me. I do not in the least blame a man for buying a farm, if he sees he can make more out of it as interest for his capital than he can get elsewhere. But this speculation is carried on almost to gambling j and many a man who buys an estate knows very little how to cultivate it to the best advantage. There is a loan society here which will always advance one-half of the purchase-money, but they have the first claim on the estate, and the mortgagees who lend the other half (for very often land is mortgaged up to the whole of the sum that it costs) have, I should fancy, a very poor security for the remainder. There are more ways of entering a farm here than one. Very often the cattle and implements go with the estate, and, in the case of renting, the whole stock is taken at an inventory, to be replaced at the expiration of the term, by which means it is possible for a man to come into his farm with scarcely a shilling. But I think that a tenant who really means to start right, and stock his farm properly, should enter it with about 2/. or 2,1. IDS. capital per acre, and in this case, if he understood his business, he would be sure of a good and certain return. One great advantage a good working farmer would have in taking a farm here is this he would pay only for the cultivated land ; and as there is generally nearly as much waste land on each estate as that which is under the plough, but equally good (wanting only working), he could if he got a long lease Sweden. 23 (which every British farmer would of course insist upon) in a few years double the area of his cultivated land. Of course, throughout this wide land, there is as much variety in the soil as in the climate, and there are few estates of any size upon which you will not find nearly every variety of soil which the farmer requires j but of course, like England, Sweden has its rich and its poor districts. Taking the land in general, I should say it was a stiff, useful, but poor and hungry, soil, with much deep good land by the sides of the river and lakes everywhere capable of great improvement by ground drainage and care. The standard crops of the country rye, oats, clover, and artificial grasses appear to grow well on every farm. Rye is the principal corn grown in Sweden. In Wermland it should, if possible, be in the ground by the beginning of August, and the harvest will generally fall in that month. The measure in use here is the tunna, and on a rough calculation we may reckon this as equal to four English bushels, or half a quarter. The land is measured by the tunneland, which is rather more than an English acre. It is next to impossible to give a general average of the crops in the midland districts, for so much depends upon the weather and the seasons j and most of the land is in such bad heart, that, unlike the farmer in England, who can generally calculate upon his return with some certainty, the Swedish farmer can hardly ever reckon, when he sows his corn, how much he may get back. I know no country which wants it more, or which could be more improved by ground-draining than this, and the expense of ground-draining here is not dear about 2/. to 2/. los. per acre. Artificial manures are coming much into fashion, although the peasants stick to "muck," and muck only. Guano answers well for an autumn dressing, but the summers are generally too dry to use it in the spring. I wonder, considering how much they are wanted at home, at the quantity of bones that are annually exported from Sweden. A tunna of good rye will weigh from 26olb. to 3oolb. j and its market price is always 155., and sometimes as high as i/. 24 Sweden. When properly done by, I have seen some rattling crops of wheat in many places, which proves that, with care, the land might soon be adapted to its culture ; and I wonder it is not more attended to. An average crop will probably be about eight tunna, or four quarters, to the acre ; it should weigh 3oolb. per tunna, and average z$s. in the market Red wheat is generally sown three- quarters of a tunna seed to the tunneland ; and spring wheat, if they can get it in early enough, generally does well. Wermland is not a barley province, but by good draining it might be made to carry good crops. It is impossible to give an average of this crop, which varies from six to twelve tunna per tunneland, and will average about 129. per tunna, weight 26olb. Oats, however, appear to be peculiarly adapted to this soil and climate. They are generally sown three years in succession on the same land, in many places six, and sometimes ten just cast into the land, without any manure ; and, notwithstanding this lazy-bed culture, the return will sometimes be six tunna to the acre ; but we see often wretched crops, and it is not to be wondered at, con- sidering what state the land must be in after such close cropping. The principal oats grown here are both white and black, and potato oats. They will weigh from i6olb. to 2oolb. the tunna, and the price varies from 8s. to 125". Potatoes will average %s. to 6s., and turnips (Swedish) 45. per tunna. The land seems well adapted to potatoes. On Gardsjo they generally plant fifteen tunna on three tunneland, and get back seldom less than i^o tunna. On good ground, carrots grow well up here, and occasionally the crop will yield 200 tunna to the tunneland. Beans are but little grown, nor do I think the country adapted to them certainly not at present. Peas, however, grow well in many places. The clover crops are excellent j and as there is in this country no rich old natural meadow-grass, like the English meadows, it is the standard hay crop here, and very heavy crops they get. The seed is white clover, alsike clover, and timothy grass, mixed, jolb. to Sweden. 25 the tunneland, sown always on rye or wheat early in the spring, often on the top of the snow, seldom on oats. A good crop will often yield as much as fifteen loads to the tunneland, and the price of a load of such hay weighing 4oolb., will be 8s. to jos., some- times more. The general price of oat-straw is $s., of rye-straw 3*. per 4oolb. The natural meadow-grass is coarse and rough, growing by the sides of the lakes and swamps, and there is no old swarth for pasture such as we see in England. As I said before, the growth of turnips is but yet in its infancy ; and, till the land is in a better state by drainage and manure, I do not expect they will make much head. The general rotation of crops here is : ist, A dead summer- fallow, followed by rye or wheat sown in August -, 2nd, Grass and clover seeds in the spring, and this will stand two to four years 3 3rd, Oats j 4th, Oats or barley - } 5th, Oats or tares ; and then a fallow and rye again. I will now proceed to make a few remarks on the live stock of the farm, and wind up with some observations on the subject generally. The beef is but poor, and little wonder, seeing that the principal cattle which are slaughtered are either worn-out oxen or cows past milking. Such beef costs about 2\d. per pound. The calves are killed when a few hours old, and such veal is worth 2d. per pound. It is a nasty sight to any one who has been accustomed to the neat, clean ap- pearance of the meat in the London butchers' shops, to see the carcases brought into the market here in the peasants' carts. The pork and mutton are, however, excellent. They seem to have a curious idea, however, here, that " pigs will not pay for fatting." A good pig will generally weigh, when slaughtered, 4oolb. ; and the sheep often 7olb., when of English race. Mutton is worth 3^. per pound, and pork about 6s. for the 2olb. In the country every family kill their .own meat, and October and November are the slaughtering months. It is strange, considering butter and milk are the two staple com- 26 Sweden. modities here, that the cows are not better looked after. The cow- byres are in general low, dark, and dirty, and the cows scarcely ever well done by. In the middle of Sweden they come in about the beginning of October, and hardly ever leave the byre again till May. During the summer they pasture in the forest and grass lands ; and during winter their food is often little more than rye- straw, with a small proportion of hay. The race of cows peculiar to the country are small, hardy little animals, and the general yield of milk is 300 kanna (one kanna is equal to two-thirds of an English gallon) per year ; but when taken care of they will often double that. About 3/. to 4/. is the price of an in-calver here. Milk with the cream in the country may be averaged at 3^. per kanna j butter 6d. to yd. per pound, and cheese at all prices from zd. to yd. They say the annual yield of every cow is ^/. I confess I can hardly see it. And in general they seem to think much more of the produce of their cows than of their crops. Many shorthorns are imported from England to improve the breed, and I have no doubt, with care, the desired end will be effected. But these fine-bred English cattle will require a little different treatment from the rough Swedish cows, or, to use a horsedealer's phrase, they will soon "fly all to pieces j" and were I going to stock a farm here to-morrow, I should stick to the native breed, feed and tend them better, and I am very doubtful in the long run whether they would not be found to answer best. As long as milk is the principal desideratum, I am convinced, with the keep they now get, the little Swedish cows are the best ; but when they get the land to carry better crops, and commence stall-feeding, the large English breed will, of course, improve the meat. The sheep, however, have been much improved by crosses with our Cheviots and Leicesters j and considering the price of wool, and the immense quantity that is annually required for warm winter clothing, I wonder that sheep-farming is not more attended to. I don't suppose that in the very north they could live ; and in the midland districts they will sometimes be under cover for six months out of the twelve. Their principal food at this time is hay and Sweden. 27 birch branches gathered and stacked in the autumn ; and in the summer they find excellent picking in the woods and plantations, and on the heather. The Swedish horses are compact, docile, hardy little fellows, showing no great breeding, but well adapted for this climate and these roads, and, like the cows, can rough it upon any pasture and in any quarters. They average about 14 to 15 hands. The carts they draw are small, and doubtless, if the larger English cart-horses and our common carts could be introduced into the country, the farmers would get through their work quicker and easier. But I don't believe they would stand either the climate or roads, except, perhaps, in the very south j and instead of trusting too much to foreign aid to improve their breed of cattle, or system of farming, I should recommend the Swedish farmer to do more justice to his own breed, and modify his own style of farming, which is best suited to the country, without introducing fashions and cattle from other countries, which probably would be very unsuited to this. Much as we must applaud the spirit of enterprise and im- provement, we should always bear in mind that there are cer- tain laws of nature which man cannot overstep without paying the penalty. Horses are dear here ; about i$l. is the price of a useful country nag, such as we should see in a butcher's or grocer's light cart in England, but without the style. Riding on horseback is not fashionable here, and, except the military, you rarely see a Swedish gentleman " outside a horse." The military seat is in vogue here, and, as there is no racing or cross-country work, when you do see a man riding he seems as if he was trying to take as much out of his horse as he can. Our English cross-country seat, and our style of riding, where the rider tries to ease his horse as much as he can, not being understood, is laughed at here. There is not much work for the veterinary surgeon in the country-stables, for the horses being more naturally treated are much healthier than in England. I believe the Norwegian horses are considered the best, and though they boast of some rattling trotters in that country, I don't believe 28 Sweden. they could find many to do the English mile within the three minutes. Domestic poultry is but little attended to, although eggs will occasionally fetch is. 6d. per score. In my opinion, both poultry and tame rabbits would pay well in the south and midland districts. They have very much improved lately in the fashion of their agricultural implements, as they get all their models from Eng- land. Wood and work are cheaper here; and a Scotch plough, in every respect equal to one made at home, can be bought for 40^., and other implements in proportion. Timber is cheap, and houses and outhouses cost but little putting up in comparison to England. The taxes are moderate j all the relief of the poor in our district was out-door, and the poor-rates are levied in grain, after this fashion. Early in spring an auction was held, to which all aged and helpless paupers are brought in order to be let for the year. Each pauper is put up to bidding, to see who will take and keep him or her for one year at the lowest price, and a good deal of speculation goes on among the assembled farmers. A helpless old pauper out of whom they can get no work will perhaps be rented out for the year at ten tunna of oats ; while one who appears to have a little work left in him will be taken perhaps for three. This annual quota of grain is levied among the farmers of the district. I have heard this practice much condemned, and it certainly does appear to be a kind of traffic in human flesh. But I cannot see what other plan could be adopted in this thinly-populated country, where the houses lie so wide apart -, and I really believe that the Swedish peasant is always kindly disposed towards the unfortunate, and these poor old bodies are perhaps as well treated as the paupers in any of our parish unions, and are certainly much freer. But there is something melancholy in the reflection that one can live long enough to be of no use to any one, and to be hawked about at the end of one's "journey," and let out to the man who will undertake to keep you for the lowest price. I recollect two or three old gentlemen who were rented out in our neighbourhood, and they appeared cheerful enough ; all they seemed to want was tobacco, and the poor old Sweden. 29 boys used regularly to waylay me in the woods when I was out, to beg for a little bit. They at length became regular pensioners, and many a time in after years, when I have been out of tobacco in the Australian bush, have I thought of these old men, and become a beggar in my turn of any stock-rider who might casually canter by. It is a pity, in most places, to see how badly the forests are looked after, and how much waste yearly takes place. In many of the more populous districts even firewood is becoming scarce, and most of the forests in the midland districts are becoming sadly thinned by the woodman's axe, especially where water-carriage is near. Timber is consequently rising yearly in value. The fences in the midland districts are a kind of light snake-fence, composed of split palings stuck obliquely in the ground one above another. It is one of the ugliest fences imaginable, and has nothing to recom- mend it 5 and, to form a mile of such fencing, many hundreds of valuable young trees are sacrificed. However, in many places they are substituting neat single posts and rails. That agriculture is every year making head in Sweden, is certain. Farming associations are held in every town, and a farming school is established by Government in every district, where a dozen or so young men are sent every year to work on the farm, and go through a course of agricultural study. But at present theory is more in fashion than practice. As the Swedes, however, are peculiarly gifted with that most inestimable quality, common sense, things will be sure to come right in the end. Few countries in Europe have greater natural capabilities than Sweden as an agricultural land, and although the two great drawbacks are want of capital, and the severity and uncertainty of the climate, that farming must pay is proved by the fact that more than two-thirds of the gentlemen's families are brought up by it. But a stranger settling on a farm in this country would at first have much to contend with. A total ignorance of the language and habits of the people, the severity of the climate, and the very different manner in which the farms are managed here to what he has been accustomed, would sorely try a 30 Sweden. British farmer. A young working farmer, however, coming over here with a small capital, and really setting his mind to acquire a know- ledge of the language and the habits of the people, which he could do in a twelvemonth by living for that time on a farm where the owner spoke English (and there are many such places where he could live very cheaply), would soon find an opening. Happily, however, no men are more averse to leaving England than the farmers, and no wonder at it. I spent my early days much among them, and since then I have mixed much with farmers of other nations ; but in no other country under the sun have I found a class of men who lead such truly happy lives as the farmers of England. No matter whatever new country he may seek, the Britishfarmer is sure to leave behind him home comforts which he can never replace abroad. Whatever faults he may find with Old England, and however much he may grumble at her taxes, her institutions, and the imaginary ruin which too often stares him in the face, he loves her at heart perhaps better than any other of her sons. He is as it were peculiarly a part and parcel of her soil, and transplanting him to a foreign land is like lopping a branch off the old British oak. His native village church, in which so many quiet Sabbath morn- ings have been spent the innocent occupations of his early rural life the neat homestead, the well-tilled fields, the cattle which it was his just pride to gaze upon, the social meetings at the market or the covert side will haunt his memory to the last, and every one of these must be relinquished the moment he turns his back upon Old England. The adventurer or man of business leaves his native home with scarce a sigh of regret, and, in the thrill of adventure or the all-engrossing pursuit of money-making, will soon forget the land of his birth, and, like a true citizen of the world, accommodate himself at once to the manners and customs of the strangers among whom he is thrown ; but not so the farmer. Still, there must be many young farmers in our overstocked country who, through necessity (not, we will trust, through choice), yearly leave the British shores to seek their fortune in foreign climes, and to such men I will fairly say, that of all countries in Europe, Sweden. 31 I know of none that presents a fairer opening to a farmer pos- sessed of a small capital, but with a good knowledge of his business and a hearty will, than Sweden. There exists, over all, a good feel- ing between the Swedes and English. There is scarcely a farm in the country which could not be improved doubly with a little capital and a few years' proper management ; and when he once acquired a knowledge of the language and manners of the people, the emigrant would have no trouble to get on. I have endeavoured above, as far as I am able (for I must fairly confess to the reader, that, like old Jorrocks's boy Benjamin, " I don't profess to be a farmer,") to give a general insight into the agriculture of the country, and I have been careful rather to be under the mark than over it in my farming statistics. All I can say is, if this should meet the eye of anyone who is about to emigrate to more distant climes, I think it might be worth his while to turn his attention nearer home ; and I can only add, that Sweden just now offers a good opening for a practical, hard-working farmer, with small capital ; but I should never recommend a man to invest one shilling in land here in any way until he had spent a year in one of the numerous farming schools which exist in the country, for it would not be the slightest use a man commencing farming opera- tions in Sweden till he understood something of the language and habits of the people among whom he intended to settle that is, if he means to conduct his farm like an English farmer, and manage it himself. We will now turn to another subject, arid say a few words on the ichthyology of this land, which is as rich in "flood" as it is in " fell j" and as I resided for some time in its neighbourhood, I will commence with a short description of the Lake Wenern. The Wenern is, next to Ladoga, the second largest inland lake in Europe, lying between 58 and 60 north latitude, and about sixty English miles from the North Sea, into which it empties itself through the Gotha river, running into the Cattegat at Gothen- burg. The length of this magnificent lake is about seventy English miles, its breadth in places about forty, and it is computed gz Sweden. to cover a surface of 360 English square miles. It lies about i$o feet higher than the sea, is fed by twenty-four tributary streams, although its only outlet is through the Gotha, a river not so wide as the Thames at Kingston. Its greatest depth is 360 feet, and ships of a fair tonnage ply on its surface in the summer, bringing down from the northern districts of Wermland and the Dalecar- lian forests iron, timber, and corn to Gothenburg for export. The Wsnern lies also on the summer high road from Gothenburg to Stockholm, and at this season a line of communication is open through the middle of Sweden by means of lakes and canals, and travellers may run from one town to the other in about four days, passing through a picturesque and beautiful country in small steamers, which, for appointments, cleanliness, and cheapness are second to none in the world ; their captains, being all " old salts," speak and understand English well, so that on such an excursion the tourist may dispense with the nuisance and charge of a courier. The small but remarkably neat town of Wenersborg lies at the southern extremity of the Wenern, and the clean, well-built little town of Carlstad at the north ; and here the Clar, one of the largest rivers in the middle of Sweden, empties itself into the Wenern. The Clar rises far up in the Norwegian fells, and runs through the wild forest districts of Dalecarlia and North Wermland. A little distance to the north-east of Carlstad is another smaller town Christineham ; Mariestad and Lidkoping stand on its eastern shores, and Amal on its western. At any one of these towns cheap and good accommodation may be had; but, as a fishing station, I should recommend Christineham or Amal. In addition to these towns, the margin of the lake is studded with small villages and farms, while gentlemen's seats, peeping out of avenues of lime and birch extending down to the very margin of the lake, form pretty objects for the traveller's eye as he glides over the glassy waters of the Wenern on a fine summer's morning. As is always the case in the north, the land just round the lake is of a far better quality than elsewhere ; and if it was only made the most of, the farmers round the Wenern might soon be rich men j Sweden. 32 but the land of course lies low, and as the farmers are as slovenly with their dyking and banking as they are with their other farm operations, thousands of acres of land are wasted, and thousands of bushels of corn lost by sudden rises of the Wenern, though they might be all saved by a little management and judicious applica- tion of capital. The edges of the lake are bounded with large flats of coarse meadow land, beyond which rocky forests, rising all around, form a grand natural panorama. Just out of Wenersborg, to the right, are two singular mountains, Halle and Hunneberg, rich in old Scandinavian lore, while half way up the Wenern the beautiful mountain of Kinnekulle, rising about 800 feet above the surface of the lake, forms an imposing object in the distant land- scape. In many places the Wenern is studded with little rocky isles, some of them well timbered, which, as well as the extensive reed-beds on the sides of the lake, afford safe and undisturbed haunts for the numerous waterfowl that visit these regions in the spring for the purpose of breeding. We have said that the Wenern is considerably higher . than the sea, and at Trolhattan, about six English miles below Wenersborg, the Gotha dashes over a pre- cipice about 1 20 feet high, divided into five falls, through a narrow channel between the massy rocks which beetle over the foaming waters of the falls themselves, and the dark pools that lie at the bottom of each. Of course these falls proved a stopper to the navigation of the Wenern ; but the difficulty was at length sur- mounted, and a canal was hewed out of the solid rock parallel with the river, and fitted with sluices, up which the ships gradually " walk " from the bottom to the top, and vice versa. The scenery around the falls is picturesque in the extreme, but I have no doubt we have much grander falls in the north than these. The canal is, however, a stupendous undertaking, and a great triumph of art over nature. Of course not even the gamest salmon can come up the Trolhattan falls, consequently we never take a real sea-salmon (Salmo salar) in the Wenern, although the sea-salmon, as well as the bull-trout (S. Eriox) and the salmon trout (S. Trutta), all come up from the sea to the very bottom of the falls. A few D 34 Sweden. miles farther down the river are some smaller falls, and the same "dodge" of the sluices on a smaller scale is again called into requisition. Parallel to the Wenern lies another lake, the Vettern, at a dis- tance of about thirty miles, through which a canal runs between the two lakes. The Vettern is nearly as long as the Venern, but not half so broad, and its area is little more than 120 square English miles. The water of the Wettern (for it is immaterial whether we spell these lakes with a V or a W) is clearer and deeper than that of the Wenern in many places above 400 feet and I should fancy the bottom must be different, for no charr are taken in the Wenern, whereas the largest charr in Sweden are met with in the Wettern -, otherwise I should fancy the fish fauna of the two lakes differs but little. Having now slightly sketched the locality, let us proceed to its fauna ; and, first, I will notice such species of birds as to my own knowledge breed on and around the Wenern. Of the gulls, they have the common gull (Larus canus, Lin.) in all parts ; the lesser black-backed gull (L.fuscus, Lin.) common; and the greater black-backed (L. marinus, Lin.) by no means rare in some places. Of the terns, I never could identify more than two species breeding here the common tern {Sterna kirundo, L.), and the large Caspian tern (S. Caspia, Pall.), although in the fall of the year I have met with the black tern (S. nigra, Briss.) evidently bred in the neighbourhood, and Richardson's skua (Lestris Richard- sonii, Sw.) shot on the Wenern. Of the divers, we had both the black- throated (Colymlus arcticus, L.) and the red-throated (C. septentrionalis, L.) ; and, as far as my observation goes, the black-throated diver is the most common in the north of the Wenern. I never heard of a wild swan or any of the wild geese breeding here, although we had plenty of both during the seasons of migration. Indented as the shores of the Wenern are with small shallow Sweden. 35 bays or inlets, choked with bulrushes and reeds, edged with low, swampy, undrained, sedgy meadow flats, the wildfowl shooter in the autumn, if he only understood his business, could reap a good harvest here, even at the price that wild ducks fetch (under one shilling per couple) j and as for snipe-shooting, I do not believe the far-famed bogs of Ireland can beat (in a good season) some of these marshy meadows in September. No one here cares a pin for killing a snipe^ but, unfortunately, every duck-shooter goes for the "pot" not for the sport j and as the duck season commences in July, the young birds are cleared off by "family shots" before they are more than half-grown in fact, as soon as they can rise above the rushes, most of the sportsmen here shut up duck-shooting. But then for a few weeks a man who can shoot may get some rattling sport, if he has only a good fellow to sprit his punt quietly through the reeds. I have more than once known twelve couple of full-grown ducks killed in one morning's shooting as they rose snugly from a patch of reeds of no great extent ; and although about fifteen couple of snipe is the most I have ever myself bagged in a day, I am certain I have been out some days here when two good men might have picked up their fifty couple and been home to an early dinner. And the reader will bear in mind that this is on unpreserved ground, where a stranger who has not the character of a pot-hunter, has only to ask leave, and obtain permission to shoot. But by November all the sport with a shoulder-gun is over. The snipes have left, the ducks are packed and as wild as hawks j they leave the rushes, and congregate in the open waters by hundreds wild-duck, widgeon, teal, golden-eye, all mixed ; sailing about in perfect security, well out of gun-shot. Now would be the time for a punt-gun a thing that never was seen on these waters. The only ducks that commonly bred round the Wenern, to my knowledge, were the common wild duck (Anas loschas, L., as they are caUed here, the grass-duck), the widgeon (A. Penelope, L.), and the teal (A. crecca, L.) The golden eye (A. clangula, L.) breeds in holes of trees in the forests on the north-east of the Wenern, and the goosander (Mergus merganser, L.), and the merganser (M. D a 3 6 Sweden. serrator, L.) sparingly over all. Of course in the spring and autumn we had the scoters, pintail, and some others, on their way to their northern breeding haunts. Of the grebes I could never identify more than one species on the Wenern, namely, the great-crested grebe (Podiceps cristatus, Lath.), and this was by no means rare. It is a curious fact that, in such a locality, so admirably suited to the habits of these birds, the coot Fulica atra, L.) is only very rarely killed on the Wenern ; and as to the water-hen (Galiinula chloropus, Lath.), it is unknown here. I never myself (nor can I hear of anyone else who has) killed the water-rail (Rallus aquaticus, L.) here; but the spotted crake (Gal- iinula porxani, Lath.) was common in all the rushy meadows throughout the summer. I once shot a red-necked phalarope (Phalaropus hyperloreus, Lath.) on the banks of the Wenern in full summer plumage, but they don't breed here. I have shot Temminck's stint (Tringa Temminckii, Leisl.), and the greenshank (Totanus glottis, Bechst.) more than once in the summer time, although I never obtained the eggs of either from these parts. The peewit (Vanellus cristatus, Mey.), the golden plover (Charadrius pluvialis, L.), the curlew (Numenius arquata, L.), and the common snipe (Scolopax gallinago, L.) are all common breeders here ; but I never yet took the nest of the dunlin (Tringa alpina, L.) As to the great snipe (S. major, Gm.) and the jack snipe (S. gallinula, L.), although I never took the eggs of either here, I feel pretty con- fident that they both bred somewhere in the neighbourhood, for I have shot the young of both far too small to have travelled down any distance. The little ring dotterel (Charadrius minor, Mey.) was, in my opinion, more common on the northern banks of the Wenern than its congener the ring dotterel (C. kiaticula, L.), although both bred here j but I never detected the Kentish plover (C. Cantianus, Lath.) breeding anywhere in Sweden on the margin of the freshwater lakes, although common on the southern coasts. The common sandpiper (Totanus hypoleucus, Tern.), the redshank (T. calidris, Bechst.), the green sandpiper (T. ochropus, Tern.), the Sweden. 37 wood sandpiper (T. glareola, Tern.), all bred commonly with us j and I think this completes my list of the waders at least, if I have omitted any, they must be looked upon as accidental and not regular visitors. The crane (Grus cinerea, Bechst.) occasionally bred in the neigh- bourhood, but this is not a favourite district, for the mosses are hardly large enough here. I never heard of a bittern being killed in the middle of Sweden - } and although a few specimens of both the stork (Ciconia alia, Briss.), the black stork (C. nigra, Briss.), and the heron (Ardea cinerea, Lath.) have been shot here, none of them can be considered as indigenous to these districts. I once saw the common guillemot on the south of the lake close to my boat while lake trout-fishing, and one specimen of the black guillemot was once picked up on the banks of the Wenern in a state of decomposition. It fell into the hands of a friend of mine, a keen collector, who immediately added it to his list as new to the fauna of the Wenern. I had my doubts about such a bird having been ever brought up here by wings ; and with that characteristic jealousy which prompts every collector to sift out all particulars respecting a rare species which falls into any other hands but his own, I felt it my duty to make inquiries as to how such a bird ever could get up here. The consequence was, I discovered that the speci- men in question had been brought up from the southern coast of the Baltic in a schooner along with a lot of gulls and such like rub- bish, as sea-stores, but having been kept too long, the cook cast it overboard, and it was picked up on the beach by the peasant who carried it in triumph to my friend. Oh, the jealousy of collectors ! I do not consider myself particularly maliciously or evil-disposed towards any man, but I cannot help owning that I felt much grati- fication in undeceiving my friend respecting this black guillemot j however, this circumstance, trifling as it is, might bear with it good results, for there was certainly very good ground for his supposing that the bird in question had by some means or other found its way up to the Wenern while living j and it is not improbable that other rare birds which are added to local faunas from specimens being 38 Sweden. picked up on beaches, &c., may have been transported there by other means than through the air. However, two specimens of the little auk (Mergulus alle, Nob.) a bird which I should have as little dreamt of seeing up here as the black guillemot, were killed during one winter (and both I believe on the ice) on the Clar, a little north of Carlstad. How these birds came here, and which way they were steering, is a mystery to me ; one thing is certain, however, they came without the aid of man. Of land birds we had every species inhabiting the middle of Sweden, and one bird peculiar to the south, whose northern limits end here, the melodious willow warbler (Sylvia hippolais, Lath.). It is superfluous, therefore, to go through the list. I will only add that the rarest nests which I have obtained in this neighbourhood have been those of the osprey (Pandion haliaetus, Sw.) ; honey buzzard (Pernis apivorus, Cu.) j goshawk (Astur palumbarius, Bechst.) j peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus, L.) -, kite (Falco mil- vus } L.) j eagle owl (Strix bubo, L.) ; Tengmalm's owl (Strix Teng- malmi, Gm.) ; great black woodpecker (Picus martins, L.) j nut- cracker (Caryocatactes graculus, Nills.) ; crested tit (Parus cristatus, L.) j parrot crossbill (Loxia pytiopsittacus, Bechst.) ; common crossbill (Loxia curvirostra, L.) I never took an eagle's nest by the side of the Wenern, although I know that the white-tailed eagle (A. albicilla, Cuv.) breeds there. Till the last three severe winters and heavy snowstorms swept off all the partridges in Wermland, excellent partridge as well as black- game shooting might have been obtained in many places on the shores of the Wenern. The capercailie and hazel grouse are also pretty common in many parts, and lots of foxes and hares, both on the fast land and the little islands in the lake. Now let us proceed to the Ichthyology of this magnificent lake j but, as a preface, let me say that the same pot-hunting spirit pre- vails among the fishermen as among the shooters out here, and the fish are so persecuted, swept off when they come up from the deeps of the lake on to the spawning-grounds taken wholesale in nets, Sweden. 2 9 the meshes of which are so fine that fry of three inches long cannot escape in fact, exterminated by every possible device that the in- genuity of man can invent, that, as a natural sequence, the fish are every year becoming scarcer in the Wenern, and more difficult to catch ; and miles of valuable water are, as it were, lying fallow, only for want of a little common prudence in keeping up a breed- ing stock of fish. How sad it is that man is ever too eager to kill the goose that lays the golden egg ! Pisciculture is in every man's mouth up here j but no one will give himself the slightest trouble to keep up the breeding stock which we already have, and which, if only well looked after at the proper seasons, would afford a sufficient supply without calling in any artificial aid. Without restricting ourselves to strict scientific classification, I will slightly notice the different species of fish peculiar to the waters of the Wenern, beginning with the trout. Much confusion still exists about the classification of the Wenern trout, or, as they are erroneously called here, the " salmon ;" and, without entering further into the subject, I will only observe that, in my opinion, we have two distinct species, and only two, of the great lake-trout in these waters the common lake or grey trout (Salmo ferox, Jard.) identical with the British lake-trout j and another species, which we call here "the silfver-lax," or silver salmon (from its bright silvery appearance), at present not identified in the British waters. The real Salmo ferox is taken in these waters up to thirty-two pounds j the silfver-lax (I can give no Latin synonym, seeing that none of our ichthyologists can decide what species this really is) from seven pounds to twenty pounds, and even larger, but generally, especially in the south of the Wenern, under twelve pounds. The real lake-trout are caught, I may say (whenever they are taken on a hook), invariably by spinning-bait, a bleak, or small roach; whereas the other species rise freely to the fly. In many parts of the Wenern very good salmon or trout fishing is to be had at the close of the summer, and many heavy fish are caught just when the ice breaks up in the spring. The wholesale salmon- fishery, however, is in the end of June or July, when the fish 40 Sweden. ascend the streams to the north of the Wenern for the purpose of spawning. The common trout. (S. Fario, L.) also runs to a fair size in the Wenern and many of its tributary streams. The average price of the Wenern trout is three-pence per pound, when the season is well on. I never saw or heard of a charr (S. alpinus, L.) being taken in the Wenern j but the Wettern's charr (S. Salvelinus, Bloch) at least both Mr. Lloyd and Nilsson consider this fish to be identical with the Salmo Salvelinus figured and described by Bloch run to a large size. I have myself seen them five pounds weight j but, according to Nilsson, they are taken in the Wettern up to ten or twelve pounds weight. I used to fancy that this was nothing more than a large variety of the common charr which we took up in some of the forest lakes in Wermerland, to my knowledge as heavy as five pounds ; but now I think that is a true species. It is con- sidered so by the Swedish ichthyologists, and also by Dr. Giinther in his notes on the " charr," who, in alluding to a large specimen from this very Lake Wettern, says, " This species is not represented by any of the British charrs that I have examined." One thing I can, however, say, that if Bloch's diagnosis " the first ray of the anal and ventral fins white" is to be considered as a characteristic and specific mark of distinction of the S. Salvelinus, we have both species in the same lake, for on March 3rd, 1862, I made a charr- fishing trip to this very lake. We fished in holes cut in the ice. Baits, a white grub taken out of the dead fir bark. We had some capital sport, although on this occasion two pounds was our heaviest fish. But we caught several specimens with the front ray, or some- times rays of both anal and ventral fins, white, and these I took for diseased fish. The smelt (S. Eperlanus, L.) remain in the Wenern throughout the year, but are never seen except just when the ice breaks up in the spring j and then immense shoals come up from the deeps of the lake to spawn on the shallows. Directly, however, the spawn- ing is over, they return again to deep water, and we see them no more till the next spring. We have two varieties : the smaller one, Sweden. 4! called here the " nors," which rarely exceeds four inches in length and a larger one, the "slom," about eight inches. The slom is precisely the British smelt, and although many consider the nors a distinct species, in my opinion it is clearly nothing more than the young of the slom. I certainly once did hear of a smelt being caught out in deep Wenern in summer, but this was quoted as a very rare occurrence. I have known the grayling (S. Thymallus, L.) to be caught in the Clar close to Carlstad, but I do not believe they ever come into the lake itself. Respecting the different species of gwynniad (Coregoni), or, as they are called here the sik, nearly as much confusion exists as in the genus Salmo. This is not, however, the place to enter into a piscatorial controversy. Suffice it to say, that the gwynniad, be there three or only one species, is one of the commonest fishes, and they are taken by thousands in many of the bays round the Wenern during their spawning season in the autumn. It is the opinion of our best ichthyologists that there are three distinct species of gwynniad in this lake, and strange to say it does not appear to be at all clear that any of them is identical with any one of the British species. The gwynniad is in my opinion a capital eating fish, especially a fat smoked gwynniad ; but they afford (here at least) little sport to the angler, being altogether taken in nets. I never but once heard of a gwynniad taking a bait, and this was a smah 1 fish on a night line in the Wenern. They run to a large size in the Wenern, six to ten pounds being not uncommon. The vendace (C. Allula, L.) or, as they are called here, the sik loya, is also very common in the Wenern. They, however, run to no large size, the largest I have seen rarely exceeding seven inches in length. Like the rest of the family, they spawn in autumn, and are justly considered with us to be capital eating. I have seen them exposed for sale in Carlstad market from the beginning of October to the end of January. Like the smelt, the Wenern fishermen con- sider that there are two distinct species of vendace. The smaller fish, which rarely exceeds three inches, they call the " dattor." These 42 Sweden. come in fresh, and I never by any chance saw either spawn or milt in any of these small fish. I have carefully examined many speci- mens of both, and I can come to no other conclusion than that these smaller fish are only the young of the vendace. The burbot (Lota vulgaris, Cuv.) is common in all parts of the Wenern, and runs often to a very large size, although fourteen pounds is the largest I ever saw, and this was taken on a night line in the middle of summer. They are usually taken in stake-nets under the ice in winter, when they come up on to the shallows to .spawn. In a good season, the burbot can be bought in Carlstad market for is. 6d. the Swedish pound (about twenty pounds English). The burbot is only in season when it is spawning, and then the liver and caviare are indeed delicacies. The pike (Esox Lucius, Cuv.), notwithstanding the persecution he receives at all hands, still battles his way bravely, and holds his own in every water where food is to be obtained. The Wenern pike run to a large size, and in the months of June and July a score might be caught in a day by a man seated in the stern of a punt, a bait and swivel dragging after him. No rod is required for this sport, and a spoon bait, I fancy, answers as well as any other. This may certainly be termed" " fishing made easy." The rower pulls slowly and gently round all the reed beds where the pike lie in summer. When the fisherman is single-handed he rows, and holds the line in his mouth. The perch (Perca fluviatilis, L.) also run to a large size in the Wenern, and there are certain grounds where almost any quantity may be caught in a summer afternoon's fishing. A perch of three pounds is not at all uncommon, but I once caught one nearly five pounds. The ruffe (P. Cernua, Cuv.) is common in the Wenern, but, as in Britain, runs to no great size. The pike-perch (Perca Lucioperca, Cuv.) is another famous fish in these waters, affording excellent sport to the angler, and capital eating when caught. In fact, in my opinion, a pike-perch caught in the summer, when they are best in season for firmness and white- Sweden. 43 ness of flesh, beats all the Wenern fish. They are principally taken on the long chain lines. These chain lines are in great use here. They are rigged up with 300 to 1000 hooks, about six feet apart, baited with worms or pieces of fish, floated here and there with bits of wood to mark the whereabouts, and sunk with stones at every 200 to 300 yards. I may mention here that all the fishing on the Wenern is wholesale, and hardly any man goes out for the sake of the sport. Even when a few do go out together in a boat, the principal attractions are the company and the "prog," and, as may be supposed, these fishing parties are anything but " the con- templative man's recreation." That the tench (Tinea vulgaris, Cuv.) is taken in the bays on the north-east of the Wenern in considerable numbers, and of a good size, I know for a fact. I am told that the common carp (C. Carpio, L.) is also common there, but of this I have no positive proof. It is said that before the construction of the canals and sluices at Trolhattan, the eel was unknown in the Wenern 5 whether or not such was the case, of course I cannot positively say, but it is certain that in many parts of the lake they are now common enough, and of a large size, and appear to be gradually spreading over the whole of North Wermland. We have a species of bream here unknown in the British waters, common enough in many parts of the Wenern, the Cyprinus Wimba, Linn. Its shape, however, is much more elongated than the com- mon bream j and, as Mr. Lloyd properly observes, " it much resem- bles in appearance the young of the Coregoni, but is readily distin- guished from them by the absence of the adipose fin." Whether or not there are two fish of this name I cannot say, but, on referring to a small treatise of the fish found in the Lake Malare, near Stock- holm, the author describes the Cyprinus Wimla or wimlan, and (I quote his own words) says, " But it must not be confounded with the wimma (S. IVimla) which is taken in the Wenern." Now, many naturalists here suppose that we have a second species of vendace peculiar to the Lake Anim, which lake is connected with 44 Sweden. the Wenern. This fish is the S. Wimba, Linn., or Anim's wimma. By some the existence of this fish is looked upon as a myth, but I consider it a good species. It is, however, a matter of conjecture with me whether these Anim's wimma, of whose existence Nilsson seems to entertain no doubt, may not be identical with the Irish pollan, for Yarrell's description and figure of that fish seem to tally well with Nilsson's description of the Anim's wimma. The common bream (Abramis Brama, Cuv.) in the Wenern run to a very large size, and are taken in many places in astonishing quantities 5 six pounds is a common weight, and I once saw a monster as large as a large pair of bellows, which pulled down eleven pounds. Cold bream, steeped in vinegar, with fennel, like pickled salmon, is a capital summer dish here, and bream tongues are another Swedish delicacy. It is a disputed point whether or not the Pomeranian bream (Cyprinus Buggenhagii, Bl.) inhabits the Wenern j but I am in- clined to think that it does. The bream-flat (C. Blicca, Bl.) is also very common in the Wenern, but always small. This bream-flat is often, doubtless, confounded with the young of the common bream, but the red colour of the ventral and pectoral fins at once distinguishes it. On this account it is called here the " red fin." Another species, unknown to Britain, is very common in some parts of the Wenern, but very local. This is the C. Balierus, Lin., which appears to be confined to our northern waters. It runs to no large size here, being rarely taken above one pound in weight. This species may at once be distinguished from the common bream by the deeply-cloven tail, and by the long anal fin with forty-one rays. The roach, rudd, and bleak are common over the whole Wenern, and I think the rudd here are the largest and handsomest I ever saw. The dobule roach (C. Dobula, Lin.) appears (on the authority of Mr. Lloyd and Yarrell, who identified specimens taken in the Wenern) to be by no means uncommon in this lake, as well as the chub (C. Cephalus, Lili.) ; but, strange to say, much confusion has Sweden. 45 existed hitherto in the identification of all these fish, some naturalists here appearing to confound the dobule roach with the chub, and others the real dace with the dobule roach. According to Mr. Couch, the Swedish Cyprinus Grislagine (Stamm). is nothing more or less than the true dobule roach, and this is very common both in the Wenern and the Clar. The British dace has not yet been iden- tified in Sweden. I think it would avoid confusion if it were to retain the old synonym of C. Cephalus, for the common chub. Nilsson's Swedish name for the chub (" Bred-pannad Id," broad- forehead ide) is not bad. The fishermen in the north-east of the Wenern describe to me a fish which they call the stam, and for the life of me I can't make out what it is, unless it be the asp (C. Aspius, Lin.). They say that this stam comes up from the Wenern every May to spawn in a small stream near Christineham. They remain only a few days on the spawning-ground, and are never again seen or taken by them out in the Wenern. They describe them as large fish, from ten pounds to eleven pounds, so it is clear they can't be the dace which we call the "stam/' and unless it is the asp, which they assure me it is not, I cannot make out what it is. There is, however, no mistake about the ide (C. Idus, Lin.), which certainly is commoner in these waters than the chub, call this latter fish by what synonym we may. The ide runs to a large size here : five to six pounds is a fine, bold fish, gives excellent sport both with the bait and fly, and, in my opinion, is no bad fish for the table. The chub may be easily distinguished from the ide, which it much resembles in shape, by the round anal fin and the large scales. According to Kroyer, Yarrell's ide is not the same as the ide which he figures in his Danish fish, which species, although he says it is identical with our Swedish fish, he also says does not belong to Britain. The asp (C. Aspius, Lin.), another fish unknown in Britain, is common in some parts of the Wenern, but local. It is a fine fish in shape, rather resembling the chub, but more elongated, of a more silvery colour, and its distinguishing peculiarity is the long under-jaw, which protrudes far beyond the upper one. They run 46 Sweden. to a large size, from ten to eighteen pounds, are tolerably good for the table, and appear, unlike the rest of this genus, to prefer animal to vegetable food. The miller's thumb (Coitus Golio, L.) is common in the Wenern, and I have seen specimens of the horned bull-head (C. quadricornis, L.), taken in the Lake Wettern. I believe the lampern (Petromyzon fluviatilis , L.) is to be met with in the Wenern, although I never saw a specimen ; but at Fryksdalen, a few Swedish miles north, I found Planer's lampern (P. Planeri, Bl.) as well as the pride (P. Iranchialis, L.), common in every small stream. Of the sticklebacks (Gasterostei) we had the common three- spined in all its varieties, as well as the ten-spined (G. pungitius, L.). I have still my doubt whether our common stickleback is exactly identical with the common British stickleback ; but, for fear of seeking a mare's nest, I shall give no opinion. I never, to my knowledge, met with the common loach (Colitis larlatula, L.) anywhere in the Swedish waters ; but the spined loach (C. tcenia, L.) is very common in many parts of the Wenern. The little minnow (Cyprinus Phoxinus, L.) completes my list. Strange to say, I never myself took this fish in the Wenern itself, although I am told that it is met with there ; but a few miles north, in every water where the common trout is taken, I have met with them in shoals, and certainly the largest I ever saw in my life. The above list, which, from my own experience, I believe to be strictly correct as far as regards the Lake Wenern, will also give a very fair idea of the ichthyology of the middle of Sweden. It will, I trust, prove as interesting to the angler as to the naturalist 3 giving him some idea as to what sport he is likely to obtain in these waters. For salmon-fishing, doubtless the Norwegian streams beat any waters we have in Sweden by long chalks ; bat salmon-fishing in Norway has lately become such a fashion, that if, as we are told, all the good waters are rented by rich Englishmen, a poor wanderer like myself would have no more chance of wetting a line in the Namsen than of fishing the best salmon streams of Scotland. But of this, more Sweden. 47 hereafter. If a man has only a full purse, he can always obtain sport go where he will, and requires but little information or advice from anyone as to where he had best pitch his tent , but there are many other men quite as enthusiastic, and probably equally good with the rod, whose means are limited ; and to such men I would say, try our Swedish waters before going up to Norway. The expense of a Norwegian trip is no trifle, what with guides, &c. 5 and of course living in that country rises in proportion to the number of rich Englishmen that visit it. I suppose on some of these Norwegian streams, if a man goes for nothing but salmon-fishing, he may kill any quantity of fish, but the expense of the trip will be commensurate with the sport obtained. On referring to Mr. Lloyd's " Scandinavian Adventures," we shall read that a friend of his, in 1842, from the i5th of June to the 8th of August, killed on the Namsen 323 salmon, weighing in the aggregate 3840 lb., and was obliged to leave off for want of tackle. And in the same book we find an account of one season's fishing at Ronnum Mr. Lloyd's fishing-station on the south of the Wenern where that gentleman killed with his own rod, in one particular season (although, as he himself remarks, he had others nearly equally good) 120 trout, heavy 1796 lb. 75 do., smaller 201 lb : 15 perch 15 lb. 364 pike 827 lb. I pike-perch 4 N>. 5 ide 21 lb. 580 fish. 2864 lb. It must, however, be borne in mind that few better fishermen have ever come into Sweden than Mr. Lloyd, and also that the Ronnum water is not now what it was in his day. But, to my fancy, there are still many places on the north-east of the Wenern quite as good as Ronnum ever was. And as I do not in the least doubt that every pound of the Namsen salmon cost at least six times 48 Sweden. the money to kill that Mr. Lloyd's fish did, I will leave the reader to judge for himself, looking at both sides of the question, which water he would prefer to visit. I will conclude this chapter with a few remarks on the northern salmon-rivers, which may not be uninteresting to the British angler. One of the most curious facts connected with the ichthyology of the north (if it is proved to be a fact) is this : that whereas all the Nor- wegian rivers flowing into the North and Polar Seas, on the north and west coasts of Scandinavia, from Christiana Fjord to the North Cape, are full of salmon, which will rise readily at the fly, I can never hear of any salmon-fisher who has had sport with the rod in any of the hundred magnificent streams on the east coast of Sweden, which empty themselves into the Bothnia, between Stockholm and Tornea. Now, no one denies that there are plenty of salmon in the Bothnia, and precisely of the same habits as the North Sea salmon, yet we seem to have an extent of nearly a thousand miles of coast, through which, perhaps, a hundred salmon rivers flow into the sea, lying, as it were, waste and dormant to the salmon-fisher. And as we are told that nearly every mile of water on the Norwegian coast is taken up by some rich Englishman or another, it will be seen that it is apparently of very little use for any stranger to visit either Sweden or Norway now for the purpose of salmon-fishing. I believe it is quite true that, although many good salmon-fishers have tried these Bothnian streams, all declare that they could get no sport in them, either with the fly or the bait ; and yet all say that the Bothnian salmon run quite as large, although inferior in taste, to those taken in either the Cattegat or North Sea. This may probably be owing to the water of the Bothnia having so much less salt in it than that of the North Sea. But the difference of the water would, we should imagine, make no other difference in the feeding habits of the fish than that there might be different Crustacea and insects on these coasts, and the fish might require a different bait. Mr. Lloyd observes that the only solution of the mystery which he has heard is that the fish in the rivers in question may not be Sweden. 49 the genuine salmo salar, " but a huge trout, exactly resembling it in appearance." Even if this were the case, why should not these large trout take a bait as freely here as in other parts of Sweden? But it is not the case ; because, although I believe that far up in most of these Bothnian rivers they have both species of large lake trout peculiar to the Wenern, I also know, from my own observa- tion, that both in the Tornea and Lulea rivers, the true sea-salmon, as well as the salmon-trout, are taken every year in very great quantities when they come up to spawn, so we must seek for some other cause for the solution of a mystery which, I must confess, has puzzled me more than anything else in the ichthyology of Scandi- navia. When in Lulea Lapland, I made many inquiries into the habits of the salmon in the great Lulea river, and doubtless they are the same in the other rivers along the coast, as well on the Swedish as on the Finnish sides. Both the salmon and the salmon- trout begin to ascend the large Lulea river soon after the middle of June, and the spawning season in this river is about the middle of October. They ascend the river as far as Lockmock, perhaps 120 English miles from Lulea, and between Lockmock and the sea there are eight falls, but none prettier or more fitting for the habits of the salmon than the Leclel fall close to Lockmock, which, however, apparently they cannot ascend, for the true sea-salmon never comes up as far as Quickiock, above eighty miles farther up, although I believe there is water communication so far, but broken probably with lakes and tracks. I never myself wetted my line here, but I was told at Lockmock that salmon are taken by a rod and line under this fall during the summer. As far as I could learn, the salmon fishing in this magnificent river is much spoilt by the large salmon traps set across the stream at Ederforss, a little distance from Lulea, and the salmon taken here belong to the town of Lulea. At six of the other salmon traps on this river, the yearly catch of salmon, I was told, would average as follows : At Sands, 40 tunna, or about 160 bushels ; Luarts, 50 tunna j Gaddock, 70; Balinge, 50 3 Lunnerley, 30; Annan, 40. The value of the salmon fishing in the Lower Tornea river is averaged at about sjoo/., reckoning ^o Sweden. the average value of the salmon at \l. for the four bushels. I do not exactly know how far the sea salmon run up the great Tornea river, but I think as far at least as Munro. According' to Widigren, the bed of the Lulea river consists of sandstone and clay, without any vegetation only in two places are to be found one species of pond weed (Potomogeton gramineus), and the banks are lined with different species of willow and hedge, which are of very little advantage for the spawning of any of the members of the carp genus, because it is only at very high tides that they are under water, and on this account but few of our commoner species of white fish are met with in the Lap rivers, especially far up. The medium temperature of Lake Saggat, near Quick iock, mostly may be taken at about 50 Fahr. in an ordinary season. The stream is filled with falls and still water ; the depth is considerable, and but very few different species of Crustacea, except Entomostraca, Porcellamdce and Lernece are met with j but these, however, abound in such quanti- ties, that these streams are peculiarly rich in all the species of salmon and gwynniad. Jn the great Tornea river the inferior water animals are met with in prodigious quantities, affording even a readier supply of food for the fish. The temperature of the water in the Tornea river is considerably higher than in the Lulea river, and this may probably be accounted for by the fact of the springs in the Tornea river being lower than in the Lulea river, and that the Lulea is much the deepest. The consequence of this is that the supply of fish in the Tornea river is double that in the Lulea river. Although the individuals of each may be numerous, not a very great many species of fish are met with in the Lap rivers running into the Bothnia, and at their outlets. Widigren's list includes the perch, the ruffe, the pike-perch, four species of bullhead, two species of stickleback (G. aculeatus, Lin., and G. Pungit'ms, L.), the vivi- parous blenny, the dobule roach (C. Erislagine, L.), stamher, which goes up the Tornea river as far as Munco, but not far up the Lulea river j the ide, the roach, the minnow, the winnow (C.vinelia, L.), the bream, the bleak, the pike, the salmon, the bull-trout, the Sweden. ^ salmon-trout, the great lake trout, the common trout, the charr (S. alpinus, L.), only in the fell lakes, the smelt,, the grayling, the gwyn- niad (C. oxyrrtiinchus, L.), the vendace, the herring (strommmg), the burbot, the flounder, the sturgeon, the eel, and the lamprey. Thus we see that thirty-two normal species of fish are met with in the waters of Norhotten and Lapmark, of which three (the pike-perch, the ruffe, and the smelt) belong exclusively to fresh water. Twenty- four are fresh-water species, but are met with also in the brackish waters on the coasts. Two species (the salmon and the ell) are met with both in fresh and salt water. Of the true salt-water fish only two species are met with in the very north of the Baltic namely, the herring and the viviparous blennyj while on the Stockholm coasts fourteen species of salt-water fish are normal, by which we may judge that the Bothnia has more the character of a large Arctic lake than a true sea. It may be very probable that the food of the salmon in these Bothnian rivers is different to that in the Norwe- gian streams. Yet it seems singular that they will not in both rivers rise to the salmon fly, which certainly in general is a resem- blance of no insect that ever crawled or flew j and even if the fly failed, it does seem strange that these Bothnian salmon, which certainly are precisely the same species as those taken in the rivers running into the Cattegat and the North Sea, should not be tempted to take a small herring-bleak or vendace (the most killing of all baits for large lake trout), if neatly spun. Now, from a perusal of the above, it will be seen that as far as regards the true sea-salmon, the Swedish waters, except just three or four rivers running into the Cattegat in the south of Sweden (and which I believe are all taken up by some of the rich " timber lords" in Gothenburg) offer not the slightest attraction to the salmon fisher ; and as we are told that all the Norwegian waters are rented (but of this more by-and-by), the whole of the Scan- dinavian continent, whose waters the salmon fisher at home is foolishly led to believe offer the finest and freest sport in Europe, and, as it were, a complete dead letter, save to a very few ; for there seems to be an opinion that all along the Eastern coast there 2 ^2 Sweden. are no means of taking the fish, which are to be met with in abundance, while the whole of the fishing for hundreds and hun- dreds of miles along the Western coast are monopolized by a few rich Englishmen, who perhaps never see the country except during a month or two in the summer, who never spend a shilling among the poor inhabitants, except just at the fishing season ; who have not the slightest interest in the land further than as a means of gratifying their love for sport, and yet have assumed a power to warn other older residents in the country off water (a good deal of which, if the matter was looked into, has really no private owner), which surely in their wild tracts, at least, we should have imagined, would have been as free at least to one stranger as another. Is it possible that such can really be the case ? And now for a word or two on the practice of monopolizing fishing in this wild land. I observed in 1864 some letters in the Field, in which we were told that the River Alten up near the North Cape from the Lea to the Fors, is leased by the Duke of Roxburgh, the Hausen by Sir Charles Taylor and his friends, and that there is not a river of note in Norway that is not now protected by English lessees. This is a wide statement ; and without for one moment denying the full right of any man in any country to let his fishings or his shootings to whoever he chooses, or for any other man to rent them ; but when we are told that not a river of tiote in Norway but what is protected, it naturally leads us to ask, " What is meant by this protection ?" I do not exactly know how the law stands in Norway as regards fishing ; I fancy, however, much the same as in Sweden. Now in Sweden no man has the least right to interfere with the middle of the stream. Every proprietor has the sole right of fishing in one- third of the water that which abuts upon his own land. Thus two-thirds of the river can be preserved one- third on each side ; but the middle-third, which is here called the king's highway, is open to all. It must, moreover, always be kept open not solely for the purposes of navigation, but for the sake of the fish passing up and down. Not a stake, net, or any obstacle, may be placed Sweden. 53 across it, under a heavy penalty -, moreover, many of these Lapland and Norrland rivers (and I should not wonder if this is the case with the greater part of the Alten) are altogether crown property, and no one, save a crown bailiff, has a right to interfere with any man fishing there, and this no crown bailiff would do, if he met a foreigner fishing with a rod and line. In fact, I am pretty certain that half of their northern rentings are a mere myth, and other fishermen are only kept off because they are told by the London fishing-tackle makers, or others that know nothing about it, that Lord So-and-So has hired the water, and has the exclusive right to fish. Fancy the whole of the water in such a land as Norway being all taken up by about half a score of men. Why, the statement is too absurd on the very face of it to be believed for a moment. I am not a salmon-fisher myself. I have neither the time or the money to throw away upon it j but I well know if I was, that I would soon see how many of their rentings would stand good ; and even if I wished to fish on so-called preserved water (unless it was strictly preserved by a native for his own fishing, and then I could always obtain leave by paying) I would do so without asking any one's leave. It is perfectly absurd to talk about preserving either shooting or fishing through the agency of a northern peasant. All I should require to fish the best water in Norway would be a good interpreter to parley with the peasants and there are plenty such to be found in Christiania who would like the job a good guide or two who knew the river and the peasants well, a nine-gallon cask of Bianvie (on which I should place by far the greatest reliance), and just an "inkling," as the Scotch say, of the sun. The lessee, whoever he was, paid in rent for his water. Moreover, if a trespasser is caught, the peasant or owner of the land will always accept the fine at the time (the owner or guardian of field or water has a right to seize a man's gun or fishing-tackle, and hold it till the fine is paid) ; but I should trust entirely to my nine-gallon cask and the " soft sawder " of my guide, and I never yet knew a Northern peasant able to withstand these. Moreover, the middle of the stream is always open to me, and it would be very odd if, with a couple of good rowers, 54 Sweden. I could not dodge in and out when I liked on to any preserved water on the sides of the stream. I never, however, set foot on any gentleman's or peasant's ground in Sweden without first asking leave, and the proprietor was always welcome to a liberal share of the game or fish which I might kill ; and I recommend every foreigner in a strange country to do the same as regards the real owner of the soil. But somehow or other I regard a proprietor who preserves his own land on which he is residing, in a very different light from a rich Englishman, who probably owns hundreds of acres of good sporting at home, but not content with this, comes over to a land of which he knows nothing and cares less, when I, a poorer man, but quite as good a sportsman as himself, have settled among the people, have become, as it were, one of them, and am hoping to enjoy a little sport in freedom which, on account of my means, is denied me at home. If such is to be the case, a dozen or two rich lords will have it in their power to monopolize the whole sporting in Northern Europe. This nuisance is now becoming rather too much of a good thing, and I would seriously advise any sportsman before he leaves England, never mind for what out-of-the-way country he may be bound, first to advertise in the columns of the Field, and beg to know, not whether the inhabitants of the country he is about to visit have any objection to his doing so, but whether any countryman of his own objects. Now, I therefore advise every man who has the dream or inclina- tion to try a little salmon-fishing in Norway, not to be the least deterred or frightened by the interested reports he may hear in England of all these northern waters being taken up. I am certain that there are lots of places where he will find open water, if he only has a good guide ; and even on the preserved waters he will, I fancy, always get fishing, if he is willing to pay for it. These peasants have not the least conscience or sense of honour in a bargain like this. Moreover, most of this fishing and shooting is paid for by a very nominal rent, and so badly looked after that although it may sound all very grand when a man tells you in England that he rents Sweden. 55 so many thousand acres, or so many miles of water in Norway yet it would not appear such a great renting if he told you the rent he paid, and how many keepers were employed to look after it. Moreover, I cannot yet believe that the Bothnia salmon altogether refuse to look at a fly or a bait j and I feel certain that if a good salmon-fisher were to come to Stockholm properly equipped, hire a good guide in that town, and fish his way up to Tornea, he would not be altogether disappointed. Anyhow, he would probably gather some interesting facts and information relative to the habit of the salmon on that coast, and throw some light upon an enigma which has hitherto puzzled our best ichthyologists and fishermen. There seems, however, to be a very erroneous opinion in England respecting the cheapness of travelling in these Northern countries. I think I can safely say that there is no country in Europe where a man can enjoy a little sport so cheaply and freely as in Sweden, when he once gets used to the country. To the casual traveller, I believe, Norway will be found quite, and Sweden pretty nearly, as dear now as any other European country ; and wherever the English have found their way, prices have risen 100 per cent., and are every year rising, and good fishing and shooting are both hard to obtain by the stranger, for the simple reason that he does not know the right locality to pitch upon. No man can be more covetous after money than the Northern peasant, and, as he has now begun to find out that die English are always willing to pay for their sport, in Norway he is every year becoming more and more extortionate. It seems a great question to me now whether the English salmon- fisher would not be able to obtain nearly as good sport in many parts of Great Britain as in Norway j for although, doubtless, some men who know and are used to the waters do occasionally kill a great many fish here, I hardly believe a stranger would find the sport compensate him for his trouble and expense certainly not without a good guide and interpreter, and such a man will be found a very expensive companion. DUCK-SHOOTING IN WERMLAND, SWEDEN. I HAVE, I think, already observed, that in the part of Sweden where I reside we have none of what the English game-shooter would call open shooting. Our partridges were all destroyed by two severe winters a few years since, and the breed has never been got up again. The capercailly and hazel grouse, as in all other parts of Sweden, are confined exclusively to the forests, and here, at least, I only occasionally find the blackgame lying out in the open, although we have some tolerable ground, and the hares are always in woods or plantations. The forests are so much thicker than in England, that one rarely gets a fair flying shot. It is, therefore, impossible to make a heavy bag in any of the woods round us, and the English sportsman would find but little amusement in a day's covert-shoot- ing in Sweden, except, perhaps, just in the very south; at woodcocks. But although, as I have said, we have no open shooting at game, we have round us some of the finest duck and snipe grounds that any man would wish to shoot over, and I will describe two localities in my own neighbourhood over which I have full right to shoot, and these will give the English sportsman a pretty good idea of hundreds I may say thousands of places in Sweden of the same description. As a word of preface, I may as well say at starting that, except just for duck and snipe, my game-book would show a very poor return when compared with that of most English sportsmen ; but then we must remember that I do not pay one shilling rent for either my fishing or shooting, and exactly that sum per day is the cost of my man, who rows and attends me in all my little trips. Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. 57 The two places to which I have alluded lie at equal distances from where I live, about five English miles ; and as this is almost too far to shoot the grounds properly ir. one day, I have a boat at each place. We drive over in the morning (the horse and cart cost me ninepence), take our things with us, shoot all day, camp out at night, shoot next day, and home in the evening. I enjoy these little outings greatly not so much for the sake of the shooting we get, but because they are the nearest approach to the dear old bush life that we can make in these civilized countries. The ground to the right (excuse the bull) is a bight of the Lake Wenern, studded with islands, and there are several small inlets fringed with reed-beds, in every one of which we are sure to pick up a pair or two of ducks ; but the best bit of all is a large plain of bulrush flags, and the great water horse-tail grass (in which the ducks are sure to be in the early season), of about a couple of hundred acres in extent. It is impossible to wade this, although the water is not deep, for the bottom is spongy in fact, a kind of shaking bog ; and in many places the reeds are so thick and high that it is next to impossible to get the boat through them. Of course, this place being almost tabooed ground, is the resort of all the ducks in the neighbourhood. There is much luck in shooting this reed-bed j but it does so happen that if we find the ducks out in the horse-tail grass (and this often happens if we are on the ground a little after daylight) we do get some rattling shooting. There is a capital snipe country round here, and six couple of snipe and four to five couple of ducks is my average day's work on this ground. I have done more, and I have done less. I have got a capital camping-place here on a little island ; plenty of wood and good water at hand -, no rent or taxes to pay, and no questions asked ; and I have often wondered as I have lain out on a warm night on a bed of dry grass under the lee of an old stack of dry bulrushes (wherefore it was put here I never can tell, because I have known it here as long as I have known the place), with my face turned up to the heavens, watching one little star after another twinkling in the clear blue sky why the 58 Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. whole tenor of our lives should not flow on as smoothly as the hours we spend in these lonely, out-of-the-way spots. When we shoot this ground we have a goodish deal of water to row over ; so, as we always hang a swivel out behind the boat, we are certain of a dish of fried pike or perch, or, it may happen, even a pike-perch (the sander) respecting which there was a discussion some short time back to our suppers. However, as this is uncer- tain ground, and very heavy work both to get to it, as well as shoot it, I do not go here half so often as to my other more favourite place, which I will now try and describe. Imagine a river about 200 yards across, backed by magnificent forest scenery on either hand, on one side of which the ground is partly cultivated, but on the other one unbroken swampy meadow, an English mile broad, stretches for about four English miles, bounded towards the river by a bed of flags and bulrushes, along its whole extent, in many places three-quarters of an English mile across, and some idea will be formed of a Swedish duck and snipe ground. I can fancy an old fen-man standing on the deck of one of the little steamers which ply up and down this river, catching sight of this swamp, and if his first exclamation was not, " What a magnificent place for a decoy !" I'll never again place faith in early association. And he would not be far wrong either, for if you can only get a windy day and highish water, so that you can sprit your punt quietly through the reeds without the birds hearing you too soon, I'll back a good man to have such a day's sport here on duck in the middle of August as he wont forget in a hurry. He can wade in many parts of this ground -, and the man who wades will always beat the man in a boat. Water-boots are of little use far out in the rushes, for the bottom is uneven, and I don't think I ever remember a single day on this ground, when I really waded, even in good boots, that I came out of the rushes dry. Still, if a man only keeps on the edges where he can see and feel the bottom well, a pair of water-boots towards the end of September, when the water gets cold and the evenings chilly, are very comfortable, especially in flight-shooting ; and if Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. 59 you could get a pair of boots to come right up to the fork, and fit the thigh tight, they might be useful. I never, however, had a pair of water-boots even that came high over the knee, which did not, after a few hours' wading, wrinkle down, so that every step you took, the water flew up behind into the bend of the knee, and ran down the leg till the feet were soon as wet inside the boots as they would have been had you waded barefooted and much more uncomfortable. However, as our best duck and snipe and shooting is in August and September, when the water is warm, a pair of flannel trousers, low shoes, and a change in the boat, if one means camping out, is the very best dress ; for one never feels chilly after wading in flannel. I don't care to boast of my own performances, for I never do make a very heavy bag. I once killed in these rushes twenty-three strong flyers in one day, and eleven snipe, but I saw a friend of mine knock down twenty-eight full-grown ducks one after the other. I did not shoot that day, for I wanted him to have the sport. I fancy, however, if a man were to beat these rushes every day (and a good duck-shooter should, because it makes no matter to the birds in such a tract of rushes as this how much they are shot at in the beginning of the season they never leave them ; and, strangest of all is, that they do not become wild till about the end of September, when, all at once they pack, and as soon as ever a gun is fired, they rise in clouds and go right away), he might average, with flight-shooting, twenty couples of ducks a vreek throughout August and September ; and that's no bad work for one gun. He would, however, kill most of his birds at flight, especially in the end of the season. At this time the ducks all appear to leave the swamp in the day where they go to I never could make out ; but, I fancy, to the large open waters. But they come back in hundreds at night to feed, and this is the time I nail 'em. I poach the holes in the reeds with floating trimmers in the day, and, as soon as I have got my night-lines all out, and just before I can see the evening star, I go to a favourite place, right in the line of flight, and set myself high and dry, and 60 Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. " wait the coming storm." And I have not to wait long. Firs a flight of teal dash by as pioneers, and I know I have not long lo wait now. The first intimation of the approach of the general flight is the " whish, whish, whish, whish " of wings high in the air overhead. Scouts, I suppose, on the look-out, for I invariably re- mark that, as soon as I have heard this, the birds begin to drop down. Backwards and forwards they dash by sometimes singly, sometimes in twos and threes j and for about an hour the shooting is first-rate especially if you are well in the line of flight 5 and it takes some little knowledge of the swamp to get this. No doubt the birds drop down into the rushes in many places, but there is one high road, and the man who can find this out may lie on his bunk and smoke his pipe all day while his mates are beating the swamp ; but as soon as he sees the sun go down he will take his stand, and in two hours' time will probably come back with as many birds as it would take another a whole day to kill. This flight-shooting lasts, perhaps, not more than an hour, and you can follow it any evening. And, mind, I do not mean, when I use the term "flight-shooting," shooting the birds on the water as they pitch to feed. For this work you must have a moon, and the light is so uncertain when a man is sitting low on a large swamp, which is bounded on both sides by high ground, that perhaps scarcely ten nights in the month will do for it. However, if you can find a good place where the birds feed really well, you will kill double the quantity you can in flight, for you may get two or three at a shot 5 and shoot as you may, it seems next to impossible, here at least, to drive the birds from a favourite feeding-ground. However, this sport is over by about ten or eleven, and you may then go home. And I will now tell the reader how I got home one night from this very swamp. It was in the third week of this last month of September, just at the new moon, and although of course the moon gave no light, still the twilight is always clearer just at this time, and after the flight was over I went down to a good bit of feeding-ground, and, sitting with my face to the west, I managed to see the birds tolerably clear, if they came in pretty close, and, although I had but little sport, I was Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. 61 loth to leave the ground till the birds had done feeding. There is to me a kind of fascination in this quiet, solitary sport, which I never find in any other. The dead silence which reigns over all, unbroken save by the calls of the different night-birds as they pass over (and these are real music to the naturalist's ear), the consciousness that no prying observer is "touting you through the hedge," and the excitement of the sport, all give it peculiar charms in my eye j and if a man gave me the choice of the best day's covert-shooting, or a good night on duck-shooting on a favourite feeding-ground, I should without hesitation choose the latter. There is a singular little island butting into the river in the middle of this swamp. It is not a natural island, but evidently a large heap of gravel rising like a pinnacle, perhaps 100 feet high, several hundred acres in extent. It has evidently partly been thrown up by the hand, and many sup- pose that in the early days an old cloister stood here, which suppo- sition is doubtless correct, for the village church stands on another height not far distant, and this valley was probably peopled when all the neighbouring district was one wild unbroken forest. Be this as it may, this immense mound is now all grown over with fir and juniper, and this is my camping-place when I shoot the swamp and a more picturesque camping-place it would be hard to find. I had drawn my punt up on to the strand of this island when I rowed over, but unfortunately had not pulled it high enough up, and while I was in the swamp it had drifted away, and when I came down to row myself back over the river I found no boat. This was pleasant; I did not much care to camp out, for a jolly friend on the other side of the river was waiting up for me, and I much preferred a glass of his hot brandy-and-water and a cigar to a " night out " on " the dismal swamp." Moreover, it was dark, and some heavy drops of rain were just beginning to fall. I could see the light twinkling in his window about half a mile down the river, on the other side, as if to tantalize me. However, I was not going to be beaten just like this. There was a stand of boats about 500 yards down the river on the other side, which the peasants used for rowing over the river to church and for fishing 5 so I stripped (for the stream was 6s Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. strong, and I durst not try to swim over in my long boots and shooting- coat), and slipped in to swim over to these boats, and row back for my clothes. It was a stiffish swim, for the current was powerful. However, I got well over. We have a plan here of locking up the oars on an iron bar, which comes out at the back of the punt ; and, as every boat was locked, I had to break a pair of oars off with a stone. This was a longish job, as Swedish iron is proverbially tough, and these peasants do their work pretty strong. The night was not too warm, and it was rather chilly work, as I stood in puris natura-' libus for about a quarter of an hour tinkering away at this old iron bar. But I got the oars free at last, soon rowed over for my clothes, dressed, and was at my friend's house by midnight. He belonged to the " Peep-o'-day Club," so we had a couple of my ducks roasted, and made a very jolly night of it. I walked home next morning, and thought no more of my little adventure 5 but I had not seen the end of it yet. Three nights after I came home from shooting, and all at once my head began to throb as if it would split, and every ioint in my body ached. I knew what was up, for I had felt this before. I turned in directly, took a hot cup of coffee and brandy, and in half an hour was shivering like an aspen leaf, my teeth chat- tering like castanets. I had a touch of our Swedish " frossa," or ague one of the nastiest sicknesses I think it is possible for a man to have, and one against the attacks of which not the strongest is proof. The fit lasted two hours. I was all right next morning, and had only to wait to see whether the fit was to come on every day, or every second, third, or fourth. My next fit did not come on till the third night, so now I knew that it was the tertian ague, and as the fit always comes on precisely at the same hour, I knew when to look out for it ; and as, luckily, my first fit came on at night, it does not cause me much inconvenience, for I just turn in an hour before I know it will come on, take a good dose of coffee and brandy, and wait for the shivering fit. It is a horrid complaint, for it pulls a man down so ; and although, except just when the fit is on you, you can work as usual, a kind of low, listless feeling hangs over a man the whole while the ague is on him. It often hangs Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. 63 about people here for years. The spring ague is always the worst. Lucki'y, mine is not a very severe attack ; and as each fit appears to become weaker, I hope in a short time to be all right again. The sport upon the swamp I have described, depends in a great measure on the state of the water. If the water is high we have not only more ducks, but we can shove the boat along better - } and if the water is low, the contrary is the case. In a dry season we have scarcely any snipe, and I have remarked one thing as curious regarding the snipe here. As I said before, it is one line of snipe- ground along the whole extent of this meadow, perhaps four English miles long, every yard of which appears to be good lying for snipe 5 and yet I only know five places on the whole swamp that are worth beating. In these places the snipe lie in wisps, and often far out in the water, and if they would only lie well, a man would have little trouble in killing five or six couples in each place ; but as soon as ever you flush your first bird, his " scape, scape" puts all his comrades on the qui vive, and all at once they keep rising round you, till I am certain that I have seen considerably above a hundred in the air at one time, flying round and round, rising higher and higher, a sure sign as every old snipe-shooter knows that he is pretty certain never to see those birds again that day. Still, when the wind has been blowing fresh, I have had some capital shooting on this swamp, and one day this very September I ought to have bagged twenty couple, for I had forty-five shots, but only picked up thirty-one birds. In fact, I begin to fear very much that I am fast going off my shooting. There is always something wrong now, either with the gun or the ammunition. The powder is bad, or the shot is either one size too large, or one size too small. It never used to be so ; and depend upon it when a man begins to make all sorts of excuses when he misses, he is either a pottering shot, or his nerves are not in tune. I would rather by half see a man miss ten shots clean running and never say a word about it, than see another man kill five out of ten, and bother you with a hundred reasons and excuses why he missed the other five. However, on this day I had some little excuse, for half a gale was blowing from 64 Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. the south, and as of course I shot against the wind, I often really had trouble to get my gun up and hold it steady. I never saw so many snipe in one day in my life, nor did I ever see them lie so well. I had a rare steady retriever with me, and never lost a bird. And now a word or two about this aforesaid retriever. Some few years since I recollect reading in the Field the following remarks from, I think, the Hon. G. Berkeley, " That if he had a dog to break, he would trust it to no one's hands but those of Anthony Savage." I always had the greatest ambition to become possessed of a first-rate retriever. Luckily, chance brought me in correspondence with this very Mr. A. Savage (who, by the way, is a very good ornithologist). I was therefore very much pleased when I came in correspondence with Mr. Savage on ornithological matters, and more pleased still when the result of that correspondence led to his sending me over last May a fawn-coloured retriever bitch, which, as far as I can see, is a perfect retriever both by land and water. I have not lost a single duck or snipe this year, and that is saying something in this country, where the reeds are so thick. Our season begins early, long before the birds are strong flyers, and although such a thing would not do in England, when we are at Rome we do as they do at Rome ; and as I argued upon the principle, if I don't get the birds now, some one else will, and, moreover, as all our duck-shooting parties among the gentlemen take place just at the commencement of the season, I joined many parties before the ist of August, and it was a caution to see Sutt (as we call her) catch the young birds about three-quarters grown, and bring 'em alive to me one after the other. This just suited the Swedes, who, so long as they get the game, hardly care much how they do get it. This, however, was not likely much to improve my lady's steadiness, and she got worse when the old birds were losing their pinion feathers, and, though they could not fly, could scuttle along the water at a good pace. I once heard the late Bill Scott remark, in his usual energetic manner, in reference to a horse who some one said would "walk over" for the Derby, "Will he ? well, he must walk quick to walk out of my way, that's Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. 65 all." So it was with the poor ducks they could not even walk away from Sutt, who, I am certain, I have seen chase a mallard for an English mile, and bring it back alive to me. I fancy, if Savage sees this, he will say, "Well, if I had known how she would be used, I should have thought twice before I sent such a dog over there 5" and I must confess I began to won- der myself how it would be when the snipe season came on, and I wanted her to hunt within shot. But as soon as ever the birds became strong flyers, and the snipe came down, she forgot all these tricks, and settled down to one of the steadiest dogs I ever shot over, and never ranged out of shot. It was a real treat to see her huggle up a rail or a little bothering jack out of a bit of thick grass j and she retrieved so tenderly, that I never saw her rumple a feather, except the first lark I shot to her when I tried her. I suppose this was new to her, for she mauled it terribly, and I began to fear she was hard-mouthed, but she soon proved the contrary. She became quite a noted character round here, and I am certain I could have shot over half Wermland only for the sake of my dog. I once recollect coming down Fleet Street, when I was accosted by a cork- screw-curled gipsy-looking fellow, carrying a pretty little Skye terrier, who asked me if I wanted to buy " a nice little toy tarrier dawg," adding, as a recommendation, "sweet as a nut clean in the 'ouse, and wonderful tricky." And I soon found out that this was the case with my new retriever. I soon taught her to do almost anything fetch a cap off a person's head in a moment, if I only pointed to it, drop my powder-flask in the reeds and send her back for it ; hide my handkerchief in a room full of people (often in another person's pocket), and set her to find it ; all which, and a dozen other such tricks, made her a general favourite, but on two occasions nearly brought me into serious disgrace. On one occasion, in a little party was an old gentleman who 'wore a skull-cap, as old gentlemen often do here. Sutt was in the room. The old gentle- man was leaning back in a chair, talking to a friend. I had occa- sion to cross the room by the back of his chair, and in so doing laid my hand on his shoulder. Whether Sutt took this as a signal or 66 Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. not I cannot say, but in less than half a minute after she sprang up behind the chair, dragged off the old gentleman's thatch, and triumphantly brought it to me, amid roars of laughter from all the company, save the old gentleman, who clapped his hands to his head, wondering what the deuce was up. On another occasion, in the same house we had a little music, and a celebrated violin player, whose fiddle was a real old Cremona of a fabulous date, electrified us with his fiddle. He laid his old fiddle on the piano, and walked to the other end of the room to talk to a friend. Two little boys were larking, with Sutt, and one or other of them managed to pull the cover off the piano, and the old Cremona fell. Judge my dismay, as well as that of the whole room, when Sutt sprang forward, seized the old fiddle by the handle, and brought it up to me, as proud as a peacock. I jumped up, and took it out of her mouth as tenderly as I could, and put it into the old professor's hands, who stood the very picture of misery and dismay. There was no laughing on this occasion. No one spoke a word, for if the old fiddle had been destroyed, I really think the good old owner would have scarcely deemed life worth living for. He never said a word, but walked out of the room with the fiddle under his arm. As soon as he got into the passage we could hear him run through the gamut in all directions, backwards and forwards. I never did hear such extraordinary music in my life. But in five minutes he returned with a smile on his good-humoured old face to tell us it was all right, and patting Sutt on the head, told her in Swedish that she had frightened him more than he had ever been frightened in his life. I would not have had that old fiddle injured by my dog for a hundred pounds. I said that we were in the habit of dropping a floating trimmer here and there in the open places among these bulrushes, and now I want Mr. Francis to read this. At the back of the island I have mentioned above is an open place in the bulrushes considerably deeper than the water in any other part of the swamp j it is probably between four and five hun- dred yards long, and less than one hundred broad, and has all the Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. 67 appearance of having originally been a fish stew ; and this favours the supposition that a cloister originally stood on this mound, for we know that the old monks in all ages were desperately fond of fish. This hole is now fringed with reeds all round higher than a man's head, and choked up in all parts, save the bottom, with thick cow-docks and waterlilies. It is, in fact, the very place of all others where a large pike would lie j and my poaching experience in the still waters of our midland British streams told me so the very first time I saw it. No one had ever thought of wetting a line here j I was at once determined to try it, and the first night I had thirteen lines out with nice lively bait, and the result next morning was three pike, the one eight pounds, the other two about five pounds. This looked very promising. The next night I got another of eight pounds, and a smaller one about two pounds. The latter was dead on the hook, and when I took it off I saw its sides were mutilated, and scored here and there as if cut through to the bone with a razor. I knew " my gentleman " was now at home, and the very next night I baited with the largest and liveliest roach I could get, and went next morning to take my lines up with every anticipation of great success. However, it was a blank one fish of about 5lb. was all we got. I did not visit the swamp again for a week, and on that day, strange to say, although we fished for some time, we could not catch a bait longer than three inches. These I fancied were no use, and thought it hardly worth trying, but luckily a fellow rowed up in a boat who had been taking up a long chain line which had been out all night, and in the bottom of the boat lay five or six half-rotten roach of three-quarters of a pound to one pound each. I got a few of these, and laid out seven lines. In the morning as soon as we spritted into the hole I saw one of the trimmer-sticks drawn fast into the candocks ; and whilst I was thinking whether I had laid out a line in that spot, I was startled by a splash close to the stick, just as if you had thrown a dog in. We got to the place as soon as we could, and then I saw such a pike standing in the water, with his head to the boat (the trimmer hook just in the side bone of the jaw, and the line wrapt round the candocks), as I F 2, 68 Duck-shooting in Wermland y Sweden. never fancied I should live to see. I was fairly startled, and hardly knew what to do, for I could plainly see (he was not two feet below the surface) how slightly he was hooked. I pulled up the candocks and loosed him, and he ran out into the middle of the hole, and again got fast. I will not tire the reader with all the chases we had backwards and forwards after that pike. I suppose it was at least half an hour before I got the landing-net under him, and lugged him into the boat. I never saw such a monster of a pike j he was not so very long, but so broad in the back, and darker-coloured than any pike I ever saw before. He was as fat as butter, and just weighed thirty-nine pounds Swedish, which would be some- where about thirty-eight pounds English. I dried his head as a trophy, and I hope to have the pleasure in autumn of showing it myself to Mr. Francis, along with the hook that took the fish. I don't mean to say that he was put into the stew by the monks that owned the old cloister, but there was something very wicked and monkish in his appearance, and, judging from the length and size of his tusks (I can hardly call them teeth), might have been of any age you pleased. We often have a night leistering in the shallow water on the open places where the reeds have been cut. We get nothing but pike j plenty of them, however, for the last night I was out I stuck twenty-seven pike. They were, however, not very large, the lot weighing together about seventy pounds. I have, however, often killed one cwt. here in the night. ' This is a sport (groans from the opposition) which I greatly delight in j and let me say that it takes some little skill to guide the boat single-handed, attend to the fire, and strike the fish well. No other ducks breeds with us, as far as I can see, save the wild duck, the widgeon, and the teal 5 and of these the former is by far the most common. No wild geese breed with us, and, strange to say, I never even saw a nock pitch during their migrations. Towards the middle of September, the ducks get very strong and wild, the old mallards are then assuming the full plumage again, and when a shot is fired the birds rise from all parts of the reeds. About the Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. 69 end of September they leave the reeds, and large flocks assemble by day in the wide open water, but returning every night to the swamps to feed. It is now almost impossible to approach them without a punt-gun, and even this would hardly be safe in our wide waters. Towards the middle of the month the golden-eye come down, and the common wild duck begin to travel coastwise. A few golden- eyes remain in the open water during the winter, but no wild duck. The weather now begins to get chilly and inclement, the duck- shooting season in Sweden may be considered at an end, and with it the shooting season in all the midland districts, except an odd shot at a hare or other forest game. I never could make out which way the scoters, scaup, or geese come down from Lapland. It must be along the coast, for they certainly do not pass through the midland districts, and the same remarks will apply to the principal part of the waders. I have only seen one double snipe this year, and that I could not kill. I do not know what is the cause, but the double snipe seem to be gradually disappearing in this country. When I first came into Wermland I killed seventeen double snipe in one afternoon in a rough, dry tussock meadow at the top of this very swamp. This was, however, a very exceptional case. The double snipe comes down to us the earliest of all the snipes, and leaves the soonest. I generally expect to find the first about the middle of August, and never kill one after the third week in September. The common snipe begin to draw down early in September, the jack towards the end of the month, although you may flush a few jacks up to the middle, even up to the end of October. The cream of the snipe- shooting here ends by the middle of October. Take it altogether, I consider with us the past has been an excel- lent season for all forest game, especially capercailie -, and although I never do much this way, I have killed more this year than ever I did before. My new retriever is an excellent bitch for the forest, where a pointer would be little use, and where a close-hunting, well-broken dog is the very thing, for it is wonderful how close both the capercailie and black grouse lie in the cranberry and 70 Duck-shooting in Wermland, Sweden. bleaberry bushes, which form the undergrowth of the Swedish forests. Everything now warns us that the Northern winter is approaching. The winter migrants are fast coming down from Lapland. Many of our summer birds have left. The night frosts have set in, and, as I sit and look out of my window on a forest tableau, painted in every shade of red, yellow, and green, I think of the beautiful lines of the American poet " It is brilliant autumn time, the most brilliant time of all, When the gorgeous woods are gleaming as the leaves begin to fall When the maple boughs are crimson, and the hickory shines like gold, When the noons are sultry hot, and the nights are frosty cold ; When the country has no green save the sword-grass by the rill, And the willows in the valleys, and the pine upon the hill ; And the pippin leaves the bough, and the sumach fruit is red, And the quail is piping loud from the buckwheat where he fed ; When the sky is blue as steel, and the river clear as glass, When the mist is on the mountain, and the network on the grass j When the harvest is all housed, and the farmer's work is done, And the woodlands are resounding with the spaniel and the gun." 7 1 MY FIRST STEEPLE-CHASER. " The merry men of Lincolnshire were foremost in the fray, "W hen ' Walker* rode the ' Gaylad/ and ' Skipworth' steered the grey ; Over any line of country ' Old Discount ' was a trump, And only felt at discount in ' the mare's' rear round the clump." I ONCE heard an old gentleman, when complaining bitterly of his son's extravagances at Oxford, wind up a long tirade against picture-dealers, dog-dealers, horse-dealers, and all other dealers, by declaring energetically that he thanked God he had never possessed a taste of any kind in his life. Now I have no doubt, on an abstract view of the case, he was right, for doubtless to indulge in any taste (unless it is that of money-making) dips sadly into a man's pockets, and perhaps, after all, those men will rub through life the easier who have not a single taste to gratify. It is true, nevertheless, that such men must be looked upon as mere automatons in the great drama of life, and as such are certainly more to be pitied than envied. Now I will suppose that scarcely one of my readers agrees with this old gentleman, but I will, nevertheless, ask him one question, which is Has he ever indulged in a taste for screw dealing ? If he does so, I will candidly ask such a one whether he has not taken more interest in watching the progress of that one screw (for, screw as he may be, the owner always fondly believes that there is a hidden value in him) than in all the rest of his stud, whose capa- bilities he knows to a pound ? There is a sort of mystery attached to the screw which is truly delightful. His greatest charm lies in his very unsoundness, and, " Oh ! if I could but only get this one right, what a plater or hurdle-racer he would make !" is the owner's constant theme. 72 My First Steeple-chaser. It is certainly now many years since I had anything to do with this class of horse, but I must confess that once on a time I never grumbled to give i^/. or iol. for a good-looking "screw," when I should have thought twice about 3^/. or 4