y-\ ravels vn Voftuf-ij^ HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS DON JOHN, Prince of Brazil. TV TAY it pleafe your Royal Highness to permit me to lay at Your Feet this Work, being a Part of my Refearches in the Kingdom of Your Royal Highness; and to exprefs my Wifhes, at the fame Time, that Portugal, the benign Mother of glorious Difcoveries, may rival her ancient Greatnefs, under the aufpicious Reign of King John THE Sixth. "VoUR RoVAT. HiGIINRSs's- Mod obedient, and moft devoted Servant, London, May 30, 1795. yames Murphy, THE LffiKAHy gait PREFACE. A/TOST of the travellers who hav© hitherto obliged the world with their obfervations on Portugal, reprefent it as a barren inhofpitable field for information, without allowing it to poflefs fcarcely an objed worthy to arreft the attention of the Philofopher, the Antiquary, or Artift ; and, indeed, the contents of their pages appear to corro- borate the reprefentation. Truth, however, will not allow me to plead the fame apology for the want of interefting matter in this work ; if it fall Ihort of the end propofed, the fault is not to be afcribed to that fertile country, but to the want of talents or induftry on my part. A nation once celebrated in every quarter of the globe for its difcoveries and conquefts, that abounds with the moft valuable mineral and vegetable produdions, that car- ries on a trade of the greateft extent and importance, and polTeffes many of the moft valuable colonies in the world, muft: furnifh an innumerable feries of obje6ls for the a coniider- vi PREFACE. confideration of the Hiftorian, the Naturalift, and State f- man. Leaving thefe momentous fubjeds for the inveftigation of more enlightened travellers, I have contented myfelf with gi'^ing only fuch cafual remarks as came within the contracted fphere of my obfervation, and thefe I have thrown together with very little art or arrangement. Whether I have been more or lefs fuccefsful in noting or recording whatev^er occurred, than my predeceflbrs who have traverfed the fame ground, the public will befl determine. I fhall only obferve, that there is not an article in this work they have anticipated, nor a Plate with which it is embellifhed or illuftrated (except one *) has ever been engraved before, as far as my inquiry has extended. The extracts inferted are chiefly from the Portuguefe writers, whofe names are mentioned, with very few ex- ceptions ; and wherever any omiflion of that nature occurs, it happened through miftake or failure of memory, and not with a view to ufurp the merit of the author. When firft I coUedled thefe fragments, it was not with an intention to publifh them ; but in order to obtain fome knowledge of the manners and cuftoms, the ancient and * The Plan of Lifbon. prefent PREFACE. vii prefent ftate of Portugal. My friends, however, at length intreated me to commit them to the prefs ; affuring me that I would meet with the fame indulgence which artifts ufually claim, and generally receive from the public, whenever they attempt any literary performance. Encouraged by this circumftance, I have complied with their requeft, from a convidion of having faithfully re- prefented whatever came within my view, and corredly reported the fubjedis that were verbally communicated to me. But at the fame time, not confidering myfelf as refponfible for the authenticity of fubjedls thus colleded ; fmce I am but the humble organ through whom they are conveyed ; and as a ftranger to the country, without an opportunity to compare, variety to furnifh fekaion, or the means of inveftigating the truth by a number of col- lateral evidences. Having taken a review of the whole in arranging it for the prefs, I found many paffages that ftood in need of emendation, and others that required to be purged of their exuberance or expunged; but think'ing it might not be unacceptable to the reader to behold the irregular fallies of one unaccuftomed to write, I have fuffered them to remain unpruned, like fupeifluous branches ihooting from a ftock. a 2 ^^ v5il PREFACE. As it was principally through the munificence of the Right Honourable William Burton Conyngham, that I have been enabled to colka the materials of this work, as well as thofe relating to my defcription of the Royal Monaftery of Batalha, I feel it my indifpenfable duty moft gratefully to acknowledge the many obligations I owe to his conftant patronage and friendfhip. [ ix ] CONTENTS. cf RAVELS in Portugal^ ^ ? • P^S« « The River DourOf - - * " 3 ^ y.«r«^/ e/-^^/^ D^y^ Journey from Oporto to Batalha, 17 Coimbra, - - • • Royal Monq/iery of Batalha, • - ' ^r Principal Entranccy ' " ' fi Chapter-Houfe, . - - - 3 Maufokum of King Emanuel^ - - 37 if/V;^ yo)&« //&f i^^'^y?* - - - 50 Pri«c^ Pedroy - " - - 59 Prince Henry^ - Don John, - X, ,. / . - - ibid. Don Ferdinand, King Edward, King John the Second, - - - 9 - - - 74 Letria, 83 Marinba Grande, An Account of the Manner of treating £ees in Portugal, - 85 Royal X CONTENTS. Royal Monqflery of Alcoha^a., - - Page 88 Don Fedro and Dona Ignez dc CaJlrOy - - H2 Lisbon, - - - - _ i^i Orij'tn and Progrefs of LiJboUy - - x-i/L On the prefent State of Lifbony - - \ac Praga do Comer cio^ - - - 140 JLqueflrian Statue of Jofeph I, '■ - 150 Cannon of Dio^ - - - 1^4 Idfcloy - - - - ij6 Public Walks and ^mufeme}its^_ - - i^y The Patriarchal Churchy - - - 161 An Account of the eflablifjed Annual Revenue of the Patriarchal Church , ' - - - 163 An Account of the ordinary Annual Dijburfements , of . the Patriarchal Churchy - . _ ibjd. LorettOy - - - , 1 65 Church of St. RoquCy - - - 167 New Churchy . - _ _ _ _ 169 Cemetery of the Britif J FaHoryy . - - 170 Epitaph to Hejiry Fielding y - - - ly-f Royal Monrfla-y of Belerfiy - - .- 1 74 Bomfucccfoy - - ■_ . I -.5 The Irifi Convent y . - - - j-,y Lifban Aquedu^fy - - - j-g ^antity of Butchers Meat fold at the Shambles of Li/bon in the Y«ar 1789, - - . - . - jgi Charitable Inflitutionsy - - _ 184 Ohfervatioits on the' Laws of Portugaly - - iSj Methuen Treaty y ■ - - . ig^ 3 Trade CONTENTS, xi Lisbon. Trade of Portugal with Ireland^ from March 1 78 1 //'// March 1782, - - _ Page 195- Obfervations 07i the Manners and Cufloms of Portugal^ 106 ExtraBs from Meteorological Obfervations made at Lifbon in the Tears 1783, 1784, 1785, - - 220 Obfervations for 1781, - - -.221 Number of Marriages, Births, and Deaths regifered at Lifpon in the Years 1788 and 1789, - - 222 Of the Portuguefe Jews, - _ - ibid. Father Lewis de Sot fa, - - - 231 ^ Letter from the King of Melinda, to Emanuel King of Portugal, - - - - 235 Cintra, - - - - " 241 Cork Convent, - - - . 255 Defcription of Cintra, - - - 256 Pen ha Verde, - - - - i^y Don John de Cafro, - - - 259 Sanfkreet Infcription, - - - 274 Memorandums of an Infcription in the Sanfreet Language and De'ua-Nagarec Chara&er. Tranfated by Q\\3lX\qs Wilkins, Efj. - - - 279 Mafra, . - - - - 287 Sctuval, - - - - , - 290 Beja^ ----- 297 Evora, ----- 302 AqueduB of ^ Scrtorius, - - - 303 Temple of Diana, - - - 306 Charnel-Houfe, - - - - 309 [ xli ] DIRECTIONS to the BINDER for placing the PLATES. Plate I. A View of the Bricifli Fadory-houfe at Oporto, to face? age la II. A View of the Caravanfliry of the Oaks, - - 20 III. A View of the Churchof Batalha, - - - 36 IV. A general Plan of the City of Lifbon, - - - 130 V. A Reprefentation of the principal modern Streets of Lifbon, 148 VI. A View of the Cuftom Houfe and Royal Excliange at Lifbonj 1 50 VII. Arabic Infcriptions, - - - - 154 VIII. Roman Infcriptions, - - - - 184 IX. A Peafant of Alenteju — A Lifbon Fruit-woman — A Woman of Beira, - - - - 20a X. A Portuguefe Merchant, with his Wife and Maid Servant, 204 XI. The Fandango Dance, - - - 210 XII. View of an ancient Bath at Cintra, - - 246 XIII. A Copy of a Sanfkreet Infcription — at Cintra, - - 278 XIV. Fragments of Roman Antiquities, found at Beja and Evora, 298 "^Yj' [ Ancient Infcriptions — at Beja, - - - 300 XVII. A View of the Aqueduft of Q^ Sertorius — at Evora, - 304 XVIII. A View of the Caftellum of Q;_Sertorius — at Evora, - ibid. XIX. A View of the Temple of Diana— at Evora, - - 306 XX 1 . Y XI C ■^"^^^"•^ Infcriptions — at Evora, - - 308 XXII. One ancient and two modern Infcriptions — at Evora, - ibid. XXIII. An Arabic Infcription — at Evora, _ _ _ ibid. XXIV. An interior View of a Charnel-houfe — at Evora, - 310 ERRATA. Page 274. line 6. For the Duhe de Braganfa read Di.t Cenjiantiita de Bragar.^a. 277. — 8. For rendas read render. Ha^H^j T^M^S TRAVELS I H PORTUGAL. o N the menty-feventh of December, one thoufand ^^ feven hundred and eighty-eight, I failed from the port of Dublin, on board a trading veffel bound to Oporto. On the morning of the feventeenth day after our departure, we defcried the mountains of Vianna, which rile at the Northern extremity of Portugal. A few miles to the South of thefe mountains, appeared Villa do Conde ; here our Captain pointed to a fcries of arches, the remains of an ancient aqueduft ; the number we could not afcer- tain with the motion of the fhip, but the Captain affured us that they exceeded three hundred, and their apparent extent feemed to juftify the affertion. On the evening of the fame day, we approached the bar of Oporto, and made the ufual fignal for a pilot. An B eight- LoNiDo/\y(7j t TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. eight- oared barge, equipped with a white and black crew, foon arrived, with two commiflioned pilots, who informed us, much to our regret, that we muft put to fea till the next day, as it was too late to pafs the bar. In the mean time, a heavy gale arofe which fwelled the fea mountain- high. One of the pilots who continued on board, feeing the ftorm increafe, conducted us to the bar early the following morning, when feveral boat-men came to our affiflance. Nature has alraofl cut off all communication be- tween this city and the fea ; the channel, in fome parts, being not more than double the breadth of a fhip, and fo full of windings, that it requires the utmoft fkill to pafs it with fafety, even in a calm day, but in a tempefl like this, the fcene is tremendous, and called forth the united efforts of the crew, to obviate the danger of the rocks, fands, and waves, which oppofed our entrance. The river Douro alfo increafed the difficulty, as it now ran with the velocity of nine miles an hour, in confe- quence of being fwelled beyond its ufual bounds by a fucceffion of rainy days. It is eafier to conceive than de- fcribe the conflidt which enfued between this current and the waves of the Atlantic, as they met in a narrow channel at the mouth of the river. About jfive in the evening, we paffed this Charybdis, with only the lofs of an anchor, and arrived oppofite to a con- vent TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 3 vent belonging to the order of Saint Anthony, about a mile up the river. A fhip from Greenock, in attempting to follow our example, was dafhed to pieces almoft in our view, but fortunately the hands vi^ere faved, though with much difficulty, iTie River Douro. The Southern banks of the Douro^ as far as the eye can reach, is diverfified with convents, and villas, the oc- cafi-onal retreat of the wealthier citizens. The groves and gardens that accompany them have a charming effed: on the eye of a Northern vilitant, as the ravages of Winter have not flripped them of their verdant foliage. The orange-tree, which may be juftly confidered as the emblem of gratitude, here furpaffed in beauty all the reft ; " Flowers and fruits at once flie fhewed, " And as flie paid, difcovered llill ihe owed." The beauty of the profpeft, and the ferenity of the air, when compared to the naked trees and piercing winds of the country from which we had lately departed, rendered the tranfition enchanting. The Douro is the largeft river in Portugal, except the Tagus ; it takes its rife near Soria^ in Old Caftile, and having traverfed a tra6l of about an hundred and tv/enty leagues, is loft in the Weftern Ocean. Ag it approaches the fea, it winds its courfe in a vale formed by two im- B 2 menfe 4 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. menfe and cppofite mountains, where it is of depth fuf- ficient for the largeft trading veffels to anchor along the banks on either fide. During three days the rapidity of the current prevented our receiving the cuftomary vifits, with- out which none dare attempt to go afliore, under pain of imprifonment. The objedl of thefe vifits is twofold, the one to fearch for contraband goods, the other to examine and report the ftate of the paffengers health. On the evening of the fourth day, three officers came aboard, ac- companied by an interpreter, who, in the lofty tone of authority, commanded thofe who had either tobacco or foap * in his poffeffion, to bring forth the fame : his man- date was immediately obeyed ; but as the Captain was aware of the laws of the country, he fuffered no prohi- bited goods on board, except a fmall quantity of the above articles for private ufe, and thefe were not feized. We muft declare, in juftice to thefe officers, that they performed their duty with fo much politenefs, that it car- ried more the appearance of a friendly vifit than an official fearch. Thofe who have witneffed the vifits of Britilli cuftom-houfe officers, upon fimilar occafions, will fcarcely believe that fo much urbanity exifls among men of that clafs. The late Marquis de Pombal, on his arrival as am- baflador to the Britifh court, was fo rudely treated by a group of thefe gentry, that it impreffed him, ever after^ * The importation of tliefe articles is prohibited even in the fmalleft quantity. with TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 5 with an unfavourable idea of the execution of the revenue laws of this country. And it is generally fuppofed, that this circumftance alone operated as the caufe of the re- gulations which he afterwards eftablifhed relative to the wine-trade of Oporto, regulations not very friendly to the interefl of the Britifli fadory of that city. After the vifitation of the above officers, we were in expe6lation of that of the phyfician ; but as his perfonal attendance was prevented by indifpofition, he difpatched a certain deputy to fupply his place. This illegitimate fon of Efculapius commanded every perfon on board to appear on the deck, whilft he furveyed them from the oppofite fhore, at the diftance of about two hundred yards ; and indeed T could not help furveying him from head to foot, for fo curious a figure in the medical line never ftruck my fight before. To judge of his talents by his drefs, (the modern criterion of merit,) little was to be expetSled, for he appeared to defpi{e all the formal trap- pings of the faculty, fuch as the fable drapery, the broad- brimmed beaver, the full-bottomed wig, &c. his drefs was rather convenient than otherwife, it confifted of a red cap, a blue jacket fomewhat lacerated at the elbows, . Having confidered a few minutes, he took a pinch of fnuff, then nodding his head, pronounced a few words to this effe6t : / certify that ye are all in good health. Whether he derived his information from intuition, or from the pene- tration of the vifual organs, or whetiicr it happened merely 3 froirfe 6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. from chance, he certainly pronounced a verdi£t which even Hippocrates could not refute. Oporto. On the evening of the eighteenth of January, one thou- fand feven hundred and eighty-nine, the paffengers, con- fifting of tw^o ftudents, appointed for the univerfity of Sa- lamanca, and myfelf, were conduced to Oporto, and re- commended to an Englifli tavern, Vv'here we took up our relidence. The firft thing that ftrikes the mind of a flranger, on his arrival here, is the devout appearance of the inhabitants. Religion feems to be their only purfuit. The clattering of bells, the buftlingof procefTions, and the ejaculations of friars, engage the attention by day, v/hilfl every part refounds by night with the chaunting of hymns. Oporto is the fecond city in Portugal, in point of extent, population, and trade. It is feated about a league and a half from the fea, upon the declivity of a hill, on the North fide of the river Douro. The houfes rife gradually one above another, like the feats of a theatre. The ma- jeftic river which flows in the vale, covered with fliips and boats, may be compared to a ftage, on which, thoufands of aftors are feen daily engaged in the bufy drama of trade. On the oppofite fide, we behold an immenfe moun- tain, which terminates the profpe6l, and prefents this commercial TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 7 commercial theatre with a fcene highly pidlurefque, con- iifting of gardens, villas, convents, vidne-ftores, &c. all in the moft natural ftyle of perfpedive and colouring. According to fome antiquaries, the name of this city is derived from Calle, the title by which the Romans diftino-uifhed it. According to others, it is derived from the name of the founder, fuppofed to be Getelus^ the fon of Cecrops king of Attica, after whom it was called Partus Getelus^ and hence they deduce the word Portu-gal. But the name of the kingdom, as Andrew Refcndius, a man of great learning, makes it appear, is derived from the haven or port of Gale, formerly a little obfcure place, fituated upon a rifmg ground on the river Douro. The harbour was at firft reforted to upon the account of fifliing, and being found very convenient for that purpofe, numbers of people flocked from all parts and fettled there. In time, it became a rich and populous city, and was called Portugal, a name which has fince extended to'the whole kingdom. This was the opinion of Oforio, and alfo of Camoens, as appears by the following lines : In that proud port half-circled by the wave, Which Portugallia to the nation gave. M'lckles Liifiad^ b. vi. As we have fhewn the reafon antiquaries aflign for the kingdom's being called Portugal, it may not be improper to obferve, that, as it includes a great part of ancient Lu- c faania^ 8 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. fitdma, (o it is often diftinguiilied by that name alfo. We fhall therefore, in the courfe of this work, ufe the names Portugal and Lufttania promifcuoufly, as all the writers of that country have done. Oporto, in common with moft ancient cities, has the defects of being narrow, and fo irregularly difpofed, that there is fcarcely a houfe in it with four right angles. Hence, a ftranger would be led to fuppofe, that the forty- feventh propoiition of the hrft book of Euclid had not yet found its way thither. The corner-houfes of the ftreets in general, being obliquely difpofed, render the adjoining houfes of the fame figure, as every one follows the crooked plan of his next neighbour. Thus all become rhomboids and trapeziums, defeds which at firft might have been avoided by relinquifliing a little ground ; but there are very few in commercial cities, who would facrifice a few feet of their property, even for what Pythagoras facrificed a hecatomb. Many of the ftreets are fo fteep, that a man may be faid rather to climb than walk them. But this defedt is compenfated by their cleanlinefs, which they owe more to nature than police ; for as often as it rains, the floods of the adjoining mountains rufli down in torrents, and fweep av/ay all the impurities of the town. Lamps have not yet been introduced in the ftreets, except thofe which are placed at the Sacraria of the Madonas. The TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 9 The houfes, when viewed at a moderate diftance, have a clean agreeable appearance, owing to the colour of the materials, the lownefs of the roofs, and their not being disfigured by a multiplicity of chimnies, thofe vehicles of dirt, which make fo confpicuous an appearance in the buildings of Northern climates. Here no apartment is furnifhed with a fire-place but the kitchen, and this is ufually placed in 'the attic ftory. The churches are large, ftrong, and magnificent build- ings, but totally devoid of every thing that conftitutes fcientific architedure : theirs is of a fpecies between the Teutonic and Tufcan. The materials of which they are formed are excellent, and the mafonry-part not without merit. It is fcarcely credible what riches are lavifhed on the infide of them ; the altar-pieces, baldachins, &c. how- ever defedive in defign, exhibit a profufion of gilding. Gold is certainly a very effedlual thing to conceal the want of art or fcience, or . And yet the Portuguefe have fome artifls not devoid of merit, but unfortunately they are not encouraged. I knew a painter here named Glama, who would do credit to any fchool in Europe, had he incitenient to call forth the latent powers that were imprifoned within him : he was a native of Portugal, and had ftudied many years in Italy, where he acquired a corredtnefs of drawing, and a chaftenefs of colouring, that indicated uncom.mon talents. Notwithftrinding, he aflured me that he could fcarcely eke cut a miferable c pittance, lo TRA-VELS IN PORTUGAL. pittance, though he painted every thing that was offered to him, from the fign-poft to the apoftle. A lady who refided many years at Oporto, relates the, following anecdote of a rich merchant of that city, who intended to embellifli his apartments with paintings : for this purpofe he applied to Signor Glama, who hap- pened then to have fome valuable ancient pidlures in his poffeflion, which he v^as commiffioned to fell at a very moderate price ; but the merchant, who was a better judge of the produce of the grape than of the pencil, ftarted with furprife when he demanded twenty moidores for a Corregio, and faid, " That he had lately bought two new ** pi<3;ures of larger dimenfions for the fame money !" Signor Glama was one of the artifts employed by the Right Honourable William Burton Conyngham, when on his travels through Portugal, in making drawings and fketches of antiquities, 8cc. which may be feen among this gentleman's valuable collediion of papers relating to Portugal. The General Hofpital, if completed, would be the largeft building in Oporto. The principal front was in- tended to confift of an hexaftyle portico in the Doric order, with a pavilion on each fide. Although it is up- wards of twenty years iince the foundation of this ftruc- ture was laid, there is yet but a wing of one of the pavi- 6 lions TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Vi lions covered in ; the reft is raifed but a few feet above the furface, and is likely to remain in this ftate, a magni- ficent modern ruin, and a lafting monument of the folly of not proportioning the defign to the public purfe. The fite is of all others, perhaps, the moft ineligible for ceco- nomy, on account of the inequality of the ground, a cir- cumftance which obliged the archited to build walls in the flanks, as mafly as the famous wall which feparates China from Tartary. Towards the North Weft part of the city, upon an eminence, is fituated the barrack ; it confifts of three files of fmall but clean apartments, of about ten feet in height; oppofite to it, is an extenfive parade. The whole is en- compaffed by a wall, and is fuppofed to contain about five hundred infantry. On entering the gate, it is cuftomary to falute the centinel. Defer ters are generally punidied, not with ftripes, but with fervile labour ; we met half-a- dozen of thefe vidlims chained in pairs, carrying provifion on their backs^ which to a Portuguefe is a mark of the greateft ignominy ; for, according to their generous fenti- ments, that part of the human frame, which is never to be feen by the enemy, is not to be degraded by any fervile opprefiion ; hence, even the pooreft peafant is always found to carry his load, either in his hands, or on his head. The annexed plate exhibits a view of a buildinor which is nearly completed, and intended principally for the ufe c 2 of iz TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.' of the Britifli fadlory. The ground-ftory is to be the Ex- change; the next (over the mezzanine) the Bali-room, which is fifty-five feet long by thirty broad, and has two tier of windows in the front. The whole is carried on from the defigns of William Whitehead efq. the Britifh conful. Over the center acrotoire, on the top of the building, is to be placed a ftatue, on the fubjedl of which the fadlory have not yet decided, and in all probability will not for fome time, as artifts are generally the laft who are confulted here on thefe occafions. We fhould fuppofe, that in a commercial edifice like this, taking the country into confideration, a ftatue of Prince Henry, the Pharaoh of navigation and the fource of commerce, would not be unfuitable. He is generally reprefented as holding a globe in one hand, a chart in the other, and his motto on the pedeftal Ta/enf de bien faire. The ingenious architect has filled four pages in folio with calculations, which ran to quadratick equations, in demonftrating how much the in- tended ftatue fliould incline forward, fo as to appear per- fesho fill his immenfitv, " the only principle, tliejiglit of heaven, " the father of all. He produces every " thing; He orders and difpofes every " thing : He is the reafon, tlie life, the " motion of all beings «f." Chc'j. Ramfafs Tkeolcgy cf the Ancients. » Exodus, Chap. iii. T, 14. ^ Vi'a Pyih. PorpUi-r. f Pint. Viti Nuir.i. (! Lafl. \x\. Hi. r. J Di-ig. I.aTt. iib. j;i. lavino;. 42 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. faying, " I know, O Lord, that nothing but Thee i& *' worthy to be fought for. Thofe feas and lands have " their limits and duration, but Thou alone art eternal, *' immortal, infinite." ■ To return to the Maufoleum ; the architediure in fome parts is Arabian, in others abfolute Gothic. The inftde prefents an odlagon, the diameter of which, between the parallel fides, is fixty-five feet. This was to have been covered with a vault of hewn flone, as appears by the parts already commenced at the height of about feventy- one feet. The whole is carried up to the height of about feventy-five feet ; and though it has been expofed to the weather fince the year one thoufand five hundred and nine, it fcarcely exhibits any traces of decay, Refpeding the founder, there are different opinions t Some attribute it to King Emanuel, others to his fifter Queen Leanor, confort of his predeceflbr John the Second, who intended it as a depofitory for her hufband and the other royal perfonages interred in the convent without mo- numents fui table to their rank. It appears, however, that if Emanuel was not the founder, it has been carried on under his aufpices, by hi-s name being often repeated about the architraves of the windows. But at the death of his fifler, he drew all the artificers employed here to the convent of Bellem near 6 Lifbon,. TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 43 Lifbon, founded by him in teftimony of his joy for the difcovery of India ; in confequence of which, this work, has iince remained in that negleded ftate. The fides of the oftagon, except the one at the en- trance, are finilhed with arches leading to as many cha- pels, each diftinguifhed by the devices of the princes for whom they were intended. The pious Leanor, in one of them deftined for the fepulture of herfelf and the king her con fort, has introduced her own maternal device j that is, the pelican in the adt of piercing its breaft. Indeed, it is much to be regretted, that a fabrick which redounds fo much to the honour of human ingenuity, fhould remain in fuch a ftate of negled. If we may be allowed to judge from what is already done of it, had not the death of the above princefs prevented its completion, the modern world' would have to boaft of a Maufoleum, in magnitude and conftrudlion not inferior to the ce- lebrated Maufoleum of the ancients * ; and the memory of Leanor would be tranfmitted down to pofterity with as much applaufe as that of Artemilia. The latter, although fhe lived but two years after the foundation of her Maufoleum, yet her furvivors, out of refpeft and gratitude to the memory of fo affec- * See Pliny, b. xxxv'i. c. 5 & 13. Fifcher's figns of this Edifice in the Defcription of Hiftorical Arch. Tav. vi. See alfo my De- Batalha. G 2 tionate 44 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. donate a princefs, who made a living fepuiclire of herfelf, by imbibing her hufband's aflies, did not delift till they finifhed her defign. Had the furvivors of the Chriftian princefs poiTefied fo much gratitude or generofity, Ba- talha, in point of architedlure, would not be inferior to ancient Halicarnaffus. And even in its prefent ftate, were it not buried in an obfcure part of Portugal, it may be faid of it, as the Jews have recorded of the fepulchre of Simon Maccabeus, that it was never without vilitors to admire it. According to the account of thofe who are fuppofed to have had their information from the records preferved in the Royal Archives of Lifbon, the name of the architedl of the church was Stephen Stephenfon, a native of Eng- land. But the Fathers Cacegas and De Suifa^ who have written the Hiftory of Batalha with great accuracy, are filent on this head. They inform us, that the King, de- iirous of building a monaftery fuperior to any in Europe, invited from diftant countries the moft celebrated archi- tects that could be found. Now, as Gothic architedlure at that time flourifhed in England, it is not improbable that fome of its artifts might have embraced the invitation of fo liberal a Prince, efpecially as his confort. Queen Philippay a Princefs endowed with many amiable qua- lities, was the eldeft daughter of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancafter, fon of Edward the Third. The TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 45 The eflablifliment of the Monaftery is as follows ; vi%. twenty-five mafs-friars of the Dominican order, four no- vices, two tonfures, and thirteen lay-brothers. They are governed by four prelates ; to wit, a prior or fuperior, a mafter of novices, a vicar, and a chief confefTor. The other dignitaries are as follow ; viz. the three profefibrs, who are appointed to teach feculars, reading, writing, and grammar ; the precentor, the facrift, the infpedor of the corn ftores, the fuperintendant of the kitchen, the hof- tilarius, and the two treafurers. There are fourteen fer- vants, viz. a cook, who is paid four thoufand eight hun- dred reis * />^r year, with board and lodging; two carmen, at four moidores f per year without board ; a flicpherd and a hogherd, each at fix hundred reis and four alqiceires % of Turkey corn per month ; and two fervants to attend the choir, thefe have no fixed falary. The others are the baker, fhoemaker, laundrefs, and muleteers. The annual revenue is computed at ten or twelve thou- fand crufades §, of which feven thoufand are expended on the maintenance of the friars ; befides, each is allowed four thoufand eight hundred reis a year for clothing. Of the remainder there are four hundred milrees || applied in cultivating their lands. The furplus, after paying fer- * Ten reis are equal to ^ of a penny. three quarts and one pint. Vuyas Di!?. f A moidore is worth i/. 7/. § A crufade is worth 2/. 31/. -\ An alquerre, I beheve, holds one peck || Amilree is valued at 5/. l^d, vants 46 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. vants hire, is expended in repairs and other contin- gencies. During a reiidence of thirteen weeks in this abode of peace and hofpitality, I experienced every politenefs and attention from the fathers, who, in every refpe6l confift- cntly with the duties of their order, pradife the virtuous precepts of their facred religion. In their mode of liv- ing there appears nothing to envy, but a great deal to admire and commend ; they eat but twice in the four- and-twenty hours, dine at eleven o'clock, and fup at eight. The daily allowance of each is two fmall loaves, one pound and a quarter of meat, the fame quantity of £{h, befides foup, rice, wine, and fruit : a great part of -this is diftributed among the poor. The rules of their order they obferve with the mofl fcrupulous rigidity ; they are muftered every morning in Winter at day-break, and in Summer at five o'clock, then each brings a vafe full of water from the fountain, to wafh in, before he enters the choir. Their cleanlinefs, regularity, and exemption from the anxieties of the world, contribute to preferve their health and faculties imimpaired to a very old age. And, notwithftanding the bodily infirmities which phyficians afcribe to a ftate of inadlive life, every father in the con- vent exhibited a pleafing exception to this maxim ; for I could not difcern one drooping with the weight of years, :or who had loft a tooth, or who had an eye dimmed with TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 47 with defluxion, though fome of them had attained to the age of ninety and upwards. Such is the wife difpenfation of Providence, that thofe men who have voluntarily fe- cluded themfelves from the mingled cares and enjoyments of the world, are compenfated, even on this lide of the grave, by a long and ferene evening of old age, free from the infirmities, difappointments, and painful rcflediions, which embitter the expiring days of the libertine and incon- fiderate. On the nineteenth of March, a French pilgrim, who fliled himfelf Vifcount Clararde, vifited the convent. The Prior received iiim with every mark of refpedt and civility due to the high rank he affumed : during three days he tarried with us, and greatly recommended himfelf by the agreeablenefs of his manners. His age might be about thirty; he was of a middle ftature, had fhort black hair, and a countenance which betrayed more of the levity of a rambler, than of the piety of a pilgrim. He was dreffed in a long grey coat, a tawdry laced waiftcoat, and a ilouched hat, mounted with a rufty cockade. A fable fcapulet of oil-cloth, ftudded with variegated fliells, adorned his {boulders. From his neck and girdle were fufpended rofaries of different lizes, together with a tin cafe and a pouch. A lufty fellow, juft deferted from the French fervice, attended this pilgrim, and carried his baggage in a flieep- fkin 48 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. fkin wallet. He was now about to defert from his mafter's fervice, in confequence of the feverity of his difcipline ; for as the Count conceived him to be a greater finner than himfelf, he oftener applied the knotty cordon of St. Francis to his fhoulders than his own : the Prior, how- ever, fo far accommodated matters, that they departed in peace. There are fome particulars which, however trifling in themfelves, fometimes make as lafting an impreflion on the mind as objeds of greater magnitude, at leaft the few that I am about to offer have had that effeft on me. The parental tendernefs which poets and naturalifts have afcribed to the ftork, I had the fatisfadion of contem- plating at this place : one of thefe birds, with its affec- tionate mate, has reiided for ages in a large neft curiouily formed on the calceolus foliage which crowns the fpire of the church. As Solomon fent the fluggard to the ant to learn induftry, fo the difobedient child would learn ex- amples of filial piety from the numerous progeny of this connubial pair. The fathers and the people of the village would deem it little lefs than facrilege to moleft them ; and indeed their humane protedion is amply repaid by the fervices they render the country in deftroying ferpents, lizards, and other obnoxious reptiles. In the villac;e there lived a little male idiot, who came each day to the cloifter to pradife his favourite arnufe- 5 ment, TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 49 ment, from which he could fcarcely be drawn to fatisfy huno-er or thirft. This amiifement confifted in an endlefs emulation between his toes for precedency ; as he moved forward one foot, the other, as if jealous of being left behind, immediately advanced^ and thus he moved on from morning till night. This is the firfl; place in which I had heard the warblings of the nightingale. The little fongfter poured his plaintive ftrains each night from a branch that fhaded the window of my cell, and all Nature liftened to the fong, except the bittern *, whofe loud and inceffant fcreams lull the mind into fympathetic meditation. Before we take leave of this Monaftery, we mufl: re- quefl the reader's indulgence, while we attempt to give a brief account of fome of the mod remarkable charadlers who are interred therein. In the center of the Founder's chapel is an infulated fepulchre, with two cumbent ef- figies of white marble, the fize of life. Thefe efEgies reprefent the King and Queen ; the former is dreffed in a complete fuit of armour, the latter in a long flowing robe, the graceful habit of the age ; the head of each is dignified with a low open crown, beneath a triple canopy of curious workmanfhip, in the Gothic manner. * The bittern is a fpecies of bird that lives by fuclion in marfliy grounds. H The ^o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. The memorable tranfadions of thofe royal perfonages are prefcrved in Latin infcriptions, finely fculptured in black charaders on the fides of the monument, together with the mottos and emblems adopted by the King, exprefllve of his extraordinary atchievemcnts. King yohn the Firjl. The reign of this Monarch is allowed by Hiftorians to have formed a brilliant epoch in the Hiftory of Portugal. He was the natural fon of Don Pedro, furnamed the Jufl:, by Dona Tereza Lorenza, a Galician lady. He was born at Lifbon in the year one thoufand three hundred and fifty- feven, and at the age of feven was prefented for the firft time to the King his father, who knighted him, and made him Mafter of the Order of Avis, agreeably to his pre- ceptor's requeft. This honour was conferred on him in a convent of the fame order, wherein he purfued his ftudies, and, happy for the nation, received a moft excellent edu- cation, which fo improved his ftrong natural talents, that he became one of the politeft fcholars, as well as the greateft ftatefman and monarch, of his age. At the death of Ferdinand his brother, who fucceeded his father on the throne, the King of Caftile laid claim to the crown of Portugal in right of his wife. At this a general TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 51 general difcontent fpread throughout the kingdom, which was then governed by the Queen, a worthlefs intriguing woman. Don John alfo afferted his right to the fucceflion ; but on being rejected, he refolved to depart for England. This being rumoured throughout Lilbon, the populace furrounded him and preffed him to flay, to proted them againft the threatened power of Caftile. He confentcd with apparent reluctance. The nobility were fummoned to meet at the Town-houfe, to take into condderation the expediency of elediing him Protedlor. As foon as they affembled, a cooper rufhed into the midfl of them, and drawing his fword, threatened any who dared refufe his confent with death. Thus was Don John proclaimed Protestor by the mul- titude, though in oppolition to the fenfe of the majority of the nobles. The prudent ufe, however, he made of power, foon gained him great reputation. Enabled by a liberal education, and a difcerning mind, to difcriminate the abilities of men; he made choice of his counfellors folely for their talents and virtues, regardlefs of every con- iideration of birth or title. In order to increafe his popularity, he caufed the pro- perty of thofe who fled the kingdom, or declared in fa- vour of Caftile, to be confifcated, and diftributed among his own adherents. And to conciliate thofe who had H 2 hitherto 52 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. lutlicrto oppofed his meafures, he promulged a general pardon for all paft offences, treafon excepted ; not con- ceiving, fays Faria, that to fupport him, was the greateft of all treafons. A few months after he was eleded protedlor, the King of Caftile with a numerous force entered Portugal. Al- moft every part at his approach furrendered, and acknow- ledged him as lawful fovereign. Having arrived before Lifbon, he invefted it for the fpace of five months ; but a plague which raged among his army, obliged him to raife the fiege, and depart. Immediately after, the Protestor was proclaimed King, in the twenty-eighth year of his age, and received in every part of the kingdom with de- monftrations of joy. The retreat of the Caftilians, however, gave the new King but afhort repofe in the enjoyment of his crown ; for they foon recruited their armies, and re-entered Portugal with all the forces of their kingdom. Don John, underftanding the approach of the enemy, drew together his troops from Coimbra, Oporto, &c. and marched out of Guimaraens to give him battle. On the morning of the fourteenth of Auguft one thoufand three hundred and eighty-five, he entered the plains of Alju- barrota, where he knighted feveral gentlemen. The Caf- tilians TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 53 tilians at firft intended to march diredly to Lifbon, yet, after feme confultation, they refolved to engage. The forces on both fides were very unequal ; the Caftilians are reported to have been thirty-three thoufand ftrong, and the Portuguefe but fix thoufand five hundred ; be- fides, the latter had fome local difad vantages. The Sun was fetting when thefe two unequal armies engaged ; the Caftilians at the firft charge broke the Por- tuguefe van-guard, but the King coming up, with his voice and example fo animated his men, that in lefs than an hour the multitudinous enemy was put to the rout. The King of Caftile, who headed his troops, being af- flided with an ague, was forced to fave himfelf by flight *. Moft of the Portuguefe who fided with Caftile, and were in front of the army, were put to the fword. The royal ftandard of Caftile was taken, but many pretending to the honour, it could not be decided by whom. Of the number of the flain no exad: account is preferved, but it * Don Laurenzoy Archbifhop of Brag.i, " he faw the King of Caftile at Santerem, who, according to Cajlera, (the French ♦' who behaved as a madman, curfiiig ;\is Commentator of the Lufiad,) fought at " exiftence and tearing his beard. And in the above battle, gives the following ac- " troth, my good friend, it is better he count of the King of CalHlc's chagrin after " Ihould do fo to himfelf than to us ; the his defeat, in a letter written in old Portu- " man who thus plucks his own beard, guefe, to the Abbot of Alcoba9a : <« would be much better pkafed to do fo " The Conftable hath informed me, that " unto others." is 54 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. is reported to have been very great on the part of the Caftilians ; three thoufand of their cavalry are fiippofed to have periflied, among whom were many perfons of diflindion. This is the famous battle of Aljuharrota ; fo called becaufe it was fought near a village of that name : and in confequence of which the Royal Monaftery of Batalha was founded, agreeably to a vow made by the King, im- porting, that in gratitude to Heaven he would build a magnificent Convent, if Providence on that day crowned his arms with fuccefs. la confequence of this important victory, Don John was fixed on his throne; yet he loft no time in putting the kingdom in fucb a ftate of defence, that in future he fhould have nothing to fear from the power of his rival. Hitherto he only j^ted on the defenfive, but now he refolved to affail the enemy in his own country ; and the better to fucceed in his enterprife, he prevailed on the Duke of Lancafter to embrace this opportunity of en- forcing his title to the crown of Caftile, to which he pre- tended to have had a legal title, in virtue of Conftance his lady. Accordingly the Duke landed at Gallicia, with two thoufand cavalry, and three thoufand archers. His two daughters, celebrated for their beauty and accomplifh- ments, accompanied him. The elder, named Philippa, was 3 married TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 55 married to the King of Portugal, and Catherine, the younger, to the King of Caftile's eldeft fon. In confe- quence of which, hoftilities ceafed between all parties, and the Duke returned to England. A period of flx-and-tvventy years had elapfed without hoftility between the two rival Powers; during which time, the happinefs of his people, and the inflrudlion of his children, folely occupied the attention of Don John. Con- vinced of the fuperiority which he himfelf derived from a liberal education, he refolved that his fons £hould inherit a limilar advantage, and hence he became their preceptor. Of the effecfts of his inftrudion, the annals not only of Portu- gal, but of all Europe, bear teftimony. He had the felicity to live to fee them attain the age of maturity, unrivalled in every manly accomplifhment. To one of them, named Henry, the world is indebted at this day for the fource of all the modern difcoveries in navigation. But of this hereafter. The vldlorlous King John at length overcome with age yielded to the flroke of Fate, in his feventy-fixth year, and the forty-eighth of his reign. No prince was ever blefled with more domeftic happinefs, or more beloved by his people. He was a deep politician, a bold commander, kind to his friends, and haughty to his enemies. It is true, he raifed himfelf to the throne by many a6ts of cruelty, difgraceful to human nature; a6ts which no vir- tuous i6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. tuous man would perpetrate for an empire ; yet when he obtained the objed of his ambition, he fupported his power, not by tyranny, but by the exercife of thofe virtues which conftitute the happinefs of a people. At times, however, he had recourfe to feverity *, when the affuaging and popular arts, in which he was eminently fkilled, proved ineffedual. The free and affable manner in which he received all men, gained him many friends ; for he pretended not to affe6l the pride of a monarch, though he never funk below the dignity of one. The nobility dined every day at his table, and after his ex- ample cultivated and encouraged polite literature. To the poor he was a protestor and benefactor ; and true merit was never more liberally rewarded in Portugal, than during his reign. Of his extraordinary prowefs, all Hiflorians bear tefli- mony ; and his effigy, which is over his tomb in the Con- vent of Batalha, faid to have been fculptured after Nature, feems to corroborate the fadt ; for it reprefents him as a man of uncommon mufcular ftrength. His helmet and battle-axe are alfo preferved here. I was not a little fur- • Here Is a ftriking inftance of it : A {gentleman of the bed-chamber, named Don Ferdinand Alonzo, tliough a favourite with the King, was apprehended for mak- ing too free with Donn Beatrh:, one of the Queen's ladies. Alonzo made his efcape from the officers, and took fan£luary in a church, affirming that he was privately married to her. But the King, whofe ruling paffion was jealoufy, came ia per- fon, and dragged the unfortunate lover to the flarnes. The lady was banlflied to Callile, her native country. pri ifed TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 57 prifed on examining the latter ; perhaps there are but few men of this age could wield fuch a ponderous weapon *. Indeed, he appears to have realized the ideas that Shake- fpear and Agrippa entertained of the vigour of thofe children born out of wedlock ; for, as we before obferved, he was the natural fon of Don Pedro by a Galician lady. " The *' beds of adulterefles (fays Agrippa) have brought forth *' the moft illuftrious heroes in the world ; as Hercules, "Alexander, Ifhmael, Abimelech -f, Solomon, Conftan- " tine, Clodoveus king of the Franks, Theodorick the *' Goth, William the Conqueror, Raymond of Arra- *' gon, &c." As a further teftimony of this Prince's perfonal ftrength, take the following anecdote, which we give on the autho- rity of a Portuguefe gentleman. Don John was fo fecure in the afFedtions of his fubje6ls, that he frequently walked abroad without any attendants. In one of his morning perambulations, he chanced to obferve an old man, who was lame and blind, at the oppofite £de of a rivulet, waiting till fome one came to guide his fteps over a plank thrown acrofs it. As there was no one at hand but the King, he inftantly approached, threw him on his fhoulder, and carried him in that poflure to the next road. The poor * Engravings of the above-mentioned f De Soufa, the Portisguefe Hiftorian, battle-axe and helmet may be feen in the compares D^n John to Abimekch. Author's defcription of Batalha, I man. 58 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. man, furprifed at the eafe with which he was carried, ex- claims, *' I v/ifli Don John had a legion of fuch ftout *' fellows to humble the pride of the Caftiliuns, who de- " prived me of the ufe of my leg." Here, at the requefl of the King, he gav^e a (hort ac- count of the feveral actions in which he had been engaged. In the fequel his Majefty recollected that this was Fon- feca, the brave foldier, who had courageoufly fought by his Ude in the memorable battle of Aljubarrota, that fixed the crown on his head. Grieved to fee him in fuch a diftrefled flate, he defired him to call next morning at the royal palace, to know how he came to be neglected by his • fervants in power. Who JJjall I i?iquire for f quoth the brave Belifarius. " For your gallant companion at the: " battle of Aljubarrota i" replied the King, departing.. A perfon who at a diftance witnefled the fcene, fhortly •after accofted Fonfeca, and informed him of what his So- vereign had done. "Ah!" faid he, (when he recovered from his furprile,) " I am now convinced of the truth of " what has often been afferted, the fhoulders of monarchs. *' are certainly accuftomed to bear great burthens. I re- " joice in having devoted the prime of my life to the " fervice of one who, like the Prince of Uz, is legs to th& ^' lame, and eyes to the blind." Contiguous /-. TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 59 Contiguous to the tomb of the Founder are four mural fepulchres of very elegant workmanfhip, in the Gothic manner, containing the remains of his fons, Pe- dro^ Henry^ yoh?^, and Ferdinand. Firft, of Prince Pedro. This Prince was Duke of Coimbra and Monte Mor^ Knight of the order of the Garter, &c. During the mi- nority of Don Alfonfo the Fifth, his nephew and fon-in- law, the government of the kingdom devolved to him ; and all the Hiftorians of that country allow, that the law was never difpenfed with more impartiality, or better tempered with mercy, than during his adminiftration, which continued eleven years. Nor was he lefs eminent as a ftatefman, than as a ge- neral and a traveller. He diftinguiflied himfelf in various engagements in Africa, where he headed an army of Portu- guefe againft the Moors. He alfo fignalized his valour in Germany againft the Turks, under the ftandards of the Emperor Sigifmond. On account both of his voyages and eloquence, he was called the Ulyflcs of his age. In the year one thoufand four hundred and twenty-four he fet out from Portugal, and fpent four years in travelling over a great part of 1 2 EuropCj 6o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Europe, Afia, and Africa. Travels at that time bein^ very rare, efpecially among perfons ot his rank, his ad- ventures gave rife to many fabulous reports. Faria fays, that he wrote feveral books, but doss not mention their tides, nor could v^e obtain any intelligence on that head, fo little are they known at prefent ; if they contain matter of information, we truft they will no longer be with-held from the Public. Don Pedro having furnifhed the annals of his country with the brighteft examples of vvifdom in the cabinet, and courage in the field, was put to death by the King his nephew, at the inftigation of fome of his favourites, whom he offended when he held the adminlftration of public affairs. The rafli, giddy King foon repented his having deprived the world of fo great a man ; but by inverting the order of juftice, his repentance came too late : he firft ordered him to be flain, then gave him a fair trial ; and on being found innocent of the alleged offence, he endea- voured to expiate his own guilt, by publifhing the inno- cence of Don Pedro to the world, and giving his remains an honourable interment in the Monaftery of Batalha. Prince TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL,. gj Prince Henrys Seems to have been born for the good of mankind ; *' born to free them from the foeodal fyflem, and to give to the whole world every advantage, every light that may pofTibly be diffuled by the intercourfe of unlimitted com- merce." With all the noble accomplifliments that ele- vate human life, he poflcfTed the amiable talents that em- bellifh it. His motto, 'Talent de bien faire, was verified in all his a<5lions, which were invariably diredled to the happinefs of his fellow-beings. The fpirit of navigation, which had hitherto {lumbered on the ocean, under his aufpices fpread her wings, and fought the remoteft fhores. The King his father, having fubdued his neighbouring enemies, prepared to crown the return of peace with grand feftivals ; in the courfe of which he purpofed to confer the honour of Knighthood on his fons. But as they juftly confidered that this diilindlion ought to be the reward of well-earned merit, they mutually agreed to reprefent to his Majefty, that the treafure he refolved to expend on that ceremony, would be employed to greater advantage in the field of battle ; wherein they would have an oppor- tunity of evincing to the world, that they m.erited his in- tended diftindlion. The refult of the prudent remon- ftrance was the capture of Ceuta, where they were 1. knighted Ci TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. knicrhted by the King, amidft the acclamations of the army. The prironers whom the fortune of war had thrown into his power on that event, experienced a bountiful mafter; and Henry had the good fortune to find among them fome Arabians who had travelled over feveral parts of the Eaft. Their information contributed to enlarge the fphere of his knowledge in cofmography, his favourite ftudy, to which he had now totally religned himfelf. And in order to avoid all interruption, he retired to a folitary village named Sagres, in the kingdom of Algarve. Here, like the great Newton, he lived in perpetual celibacy, cultivating all the noble fciences. " And here, where the view of the ocean infpired his hopes and endeavours, he ereded his arfenals, and built and harboured his fhips ; leaving the temporary buftle and cares of the ftate to his father and brothers." " Having received all the light which could be dif- covered in Africa, he continued unwearied in his mathe- matical and geographical ftudies. The art of fhip-build-r ing received very great improvement under his diredlion ; and the truth of his ideas of the ilrudure of the terra- queous globe are now confirmed. He it was who firll fuggefted the ufe of the compafs, and of longitude and ■latitude in navigation, and how thefe might be afcertain(?iJ ^ by TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 6^ by aftronomical obfervations : fuggeftions and difcoveries which would have held no fecond place among the con- je6lures of a Bacon, or the improvements of a Newton." Prince Henry for upwards of forty years profecuted his difcoveries along the coaft of Africa. Puerto Santo and the Madeira I Hands were the fir ft fruits of his enter- prife. The Azores and Cape Verd Iftands were alfo dif- covered by him, and his commanders, after traverfing the coaft: from Cape Bojador to Siera Leona, a diftance of three hundred and feventy leagues, pafled the Equinodial Line, and failed as far as the Ifland of Saint Matthew, which is in the fecond degree of South latitude. " The Prince, now in his fixty-feventh year, yielded to the'ftroke of Fate, in the year of our Lord one thoufand four hundred and fixty-three, gratified with the certain profpe6t, that the rout to the Eaftern world would one day crown the enterprifes to which he had given birth. He had the happinefs to fee the naval fuperiority of his country over the Moors eftabliflied on the moft folid bafis, its trade greatly upon the increafe, and, what he efteemed his greateft happinefs, he flattered himfelf that he had given a mortal wound to Mahommedifm, and had opened the door to an univerfal propagation of Chriftianity and the civilization of mankind. And to him, as to their pri- mary author, are due all the ineftimable advantages which- ever have flowed, or will flow, from the difc: very of the greateft (34 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. greatcft part of Africa, of the Eaft and Weft Indies. Every improvement in the ftate and manners of thefe countries, or whatever country may yet be difcovered, is ftridly due to him ; nor is the difference between the pre- fent ftate of Europe, and the monkifli age in which he was born, lefs the refult of his genius and toils. What is an Alexander, crowned with trophies at the head his army, compared with a Henry contemplating the ocean from his window on the rock of Sagrez ! The one fuggefts the idea of the evil daemon, the other of a tutelary angel *." The cumbent effigy of Prince Henry, which is feen on his tomb, is dignified with a royal crown ; for, according to De Soufa, he was elefted King of Cyprus ; he was alfo Mafter of the order of" Chrift, Duke of Vifeu, and Knight of the Garter. This Pharo of navigation has been cele- brated by the Hiftorians and Poets of every nation in Europe. The Prince of the Portuguefe Bards has paid the following tribute of praife to his memory, in which iiiis brother Don Pedro above mentioned is alfo included ; Tlluftrious, lo, two brother-heroes (hine, Their birth, their deeds, adorn the royal line ; To every king of princely Europe known, In every court the gallant Pedro fhone. * See Mickle's Hidory of the Difco- covery of Madeira, kc. From thefe Au- -very of India. See alfo Father de Soufa's thors we have extraded the above mc- Defcription of Batalha, Faria's Hillory of moirs. Judia, De Barroi's Account of the Dif- The TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 6j The glorious Henry kindling at his name, Behold my failor's eyes all (parkle flame ! Heniy the chief, who firft, by Heaven infplred, To deeds unknown before, the failor fired ; The confcious failor left the fight of {hore, And dared new oceans, never ploughed before. The various wealth of every diftant land He bade his fleets explore, his fleets command. The ocean's great Difcoverer he fhines j Nor lefs his honours in the martial lines : The painted flag the cloud-wrapt fiege difplays ; There Ceuta's rocking wall its truft betrays. Black ya-CTTis the breach ; the point of many a fpear Gleams through the fmoke ; loud fliouts aftound the ear. Whofe fl:ep firft trod the dreadful pafs ? whofe fword Hew'd its dark way, firft with the foe begor'd ? 'Twas thine, O glorious Henry ! firft to dare The dreadful pafs, and thine to clofe the war. Taught by his might, and humbled in her gore. The boaftful pride of Afric tower'd no more. Lnfiad, book vili. Our Britifh Bard, in defcribing the ftate of Europe at the commencement of the fifteenth century, thus cele- brates Prince Henry ; For then, from ancient gloom emerg'd The rifing world of trade : the Genius, then. Of Navigation, that in hopelefs floth Had flumber'd on the vaft Atlantic deep For idle ages, ftarting, heard at laft The LusiTANiAN Prince, who, Heaven-infpir'd, To love of ufeful glory rous'd manldnd. And in unbounded commerce mixt the world. Thomfon, K $6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Don yohn. Of this Prince there is nothing very remarkable on record ; he was mafter of the order of St. James, and Lord High Conftable of Portugal. On the pannel of his fepulchre are reprefented branches bearing wild ftrawber- ries, a pouch, and fhells. The two latter appertained to his order, and De Sou fa fuppofes he adopted the former, as an emblem to exprefs his devotion for the glorious Baptift, who lived on wild fruit, and on account of his name being John» Don Ferdinajid, After gaining many viftories in Africa, laid flege tO' Tangier, in company with his brother Henry, where the Moors furrounded them, and all the Portuguefe under their command, amounting to feven thoufand. The forces of the enemy are faid to have been fix hundred thoufand. The Princes, in order to extricate themfelves and their men, offered to deliver up Ceuta, on condition that they fhould be allowed to return home. The enemy gladly accepted the offer, and demanded one of the bro- thers as an hoflage for the fulfilment of the terms, where- upon Prince Ferdinand offered hirafelf, and was accord- ingly detained. When. TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Sj When the account of this difafter reached Lifbon, the Government was much divided in opinion. The King was willing to comply with the terms, to redeem his brother, but the Court, feconded by the Pope, urged the neceflity of keeping Ceuta, as a check on the Infidels. In the mean time, large funis were propofed for the ranfom of the Prince, but in vain. Don Edward, who had now afcended the throne, find- ing negociation fail, refolved to releafe his brother by force; but juft as he was about to embark with a formidable army, he was feized with a plague, and died ; leaving orders with his Queen to deliver up Ceuta for the refcue of his brother. This, however, was never performed ; fb that the unfortunate Prince ended his days in cap- tivity. The piety of his manners, and the magnanimity of his behaviour, made Don Ferdinand the objedt of univerfal regret; and this regret was heightened by the cruel treat- ment he received from the Infidels. His virtues and patient fufferings became a fine fubjedl for writers of ro- mance, and they have not failed to draw the tear of com- paffion in many a pathetic tale. Ferdinand is reputed a Saint in Portugal to this day. The friars of Batalha com- memorate his anniverfary with grea:t folemnity on the fifth of June. K 2 On 68 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. On the fepulchres of the above Princes, and alfo that of the King their father, are fculptured i7i mezzo relievo various devices, charadteriftic of their refpedive adtions or difpofitions. They had likewife, for the fame purpofe, their refpedive mottos : they are written in the French language ; becaufe, as De Soufa tells us, that language was much efteemed in their time, and very current among Princes, on accounttof its courtefy and politenefs. The mottos are as follow : King John I., - - II me plait pour bien, Don Pedro, - - Deftr. Don Henry, - - Talent de hien fairs. Don John, " ' J^ ^^ ^^^^ raifon. Don Ferdinand, - ~ Le bien me plait. King Edward. This Prince was the eldeft fon of John the Firft, whom he fucceeded on the throne. His effigy, with that of his confort Leanor, are on a tomb at the foot of the great altar of the church. He reigned but five years and one month : in this fhort period the kingdom experi- enced many difafl:ers, both from the wars of Africa and the plague, which raged thoughout the country ; to the latter he himfelf, with many of his fubjedls, fell a facri- fice. In his adminiflration he was juft, and rendered the 5 country TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 69 c6untry confiderable fervice, by reducing the laws to a regular code, and commanding the nobility to look after their eftates. A fimilar ordinance would not, perhaps, be injurious to the health or fortune of the prefent nobility of Portugal. According to the Portuguefe Hiftorians, Don Edward was one of the moft accompliflied men of his time ; he fpoke and wrote Latin elegantly, and was author of feveral books. We cannot fay much for their merit, for they are fcarcely known at prefent ; his memory could not preferve them from finking into oblivion. The writings of Princes are fubjedl to the fame fate with thofe of the humbleft of their fubjedls. Faria mentions one of thofe books, and but one, a treatife on horfemanfliip. Perhaps the author's kinfman. Prince Alfonfo, fon of John the Second, who is interred in the Chapter-houfe, never read that treatife, or he would not have loft his life by bad horfemanfhip. King yohn the Second. In one of the chapels at the Eaft end of the church is depofited the remains of John the Second, without a mo- nument, or even an infcription. But his adtions will per- petuate his memory, when the proudeft monuments are funk into diift. His corpfe remains, from the time of its ^o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. its interment, in one thoufand four hundred and ninety- five, to this day, uncorrupted, though it was not embalmed, nor prepared to withftand that diflblution which aWaits on mortality : whether this proceeds from the nature of the difeafe of which he died, (an haemorrhage, fuppofed to be brought on by drinking of the water of a poifoned fpring near Evora,) or from any antifeptical properties of his coffin, or both, the naturalift can beft determine. There are fome, I am aware, more devout perhaps than philofophic, who attribute this phenomena to the Mo- narch's fanftity. I fhould be forry to difturb fo harmlefs an opinion. If the charafters of Princes are to be eftimated by the fervices they render mankind, this Monarch has great claims on the gratitude of pofterity. His court was con- fidered as the Lyceum of Europe. The learned and in- genious men of the times flocked to it, and were en- couraged in proportion to their talents, the only recom- mendation to his munificence. ** Nor did religious opinions rife as a barrier between real worth and royal favour ; in the circle of his ftatefmen, phylicians, and miffionaries, were to be found Jews of diftinguifhed abilities ; for, to do juftice to the Ifraelites of Portugal, they have in general been remarkable for fidelity and attachment to their King and country, before the eflabliOi^ TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. yr eftablifhment of that inaufpicious tribunal that has thinned the nation of its inhabitants, and reared the balilifk of perfecution on the ruins of the temple of humanity. His profound knowledge of mathematicks fuggefted to him, that a (horter and fafer way of navigation than iiitherto known was not impradlicable. The learned men of his court took the problem into confideration, and cul- tivated it with fuch fuccefs, that the world is indebted to them for the invention of the Aftrolabium *, and the firfl tables of delineation for the ufe of pilots. By thefe inventions he was enabled to enlarge the boun- daries of his dominions. Various difcoveries were now made under his aufpices, along the coaft of Africa, whence his fleets returned laden with the moft valuable produdls of thofe countries ; but what gave him the greateft fatif- fadiion, was the opportunity thefe difcoveries afforded him of propagating the light of the Gofpel. We may conceive what progrefs he made in converting the Africans, by the numbers that were baptifed in the kingdom of Congo alone, which (if there be no miftake in the calculation) amounted to an hundred thoufand. * Tht AJfrolabium is an inftrument by of John the Second. Martin of Bohemia^ which are afcertained the altitude of the one of the mod celebrated mathematicians Sun, and diftance of the Stars. It is of that age, is fuppofed by fome to have faid to have been invented by Roderigo alTifled them. and Joze, two Jew phyficians at the court Anxious 72 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Anxious to carry the peaceful banners of Chriftianity ftill farther, he difpatched Bartholomew Dias on that ex- pedition in which he made the iirft difcovery of the Cape of Good Hope ; a difcovery which infpired him with the livelieft hopes of difplaying his enfigns on the banks of the Ganges. The better to fucceed in his defigns, he difpatched Pedro Covillam and Alo?ifo de Fayva over-land into India, for fuch information as they could obtain of the ftate of that country ; hoping thereby to facilitate his intended expedition to the Eaft. Having travelled together as far as Toro in Arabia, they parted, and took different routs. Covillam^ after viliting Cananor, Calicut, Goa, Sofala, Mozambique, Quiloa, Mombara, Melinda, &c. returned to Grand Cairo, where he heard of the death of his com- ipanion. Shortly after their departure from Lifbon, the King difpatched a Jew, named Rabbi Abrahajn^ a native of Baja in Portugal, upon the fame errand ; he met at Cairo with Covillam^ who fent him home with every in- telligence that he had acquired in thofe countries, and he himfelf proceeded to Abyflinia for further information, but unfortunately was never heard of more. The flattering accounts the King received from the Jew, ftimulatcd his natural propenfities to difcoveries \ but, alas ! he was obliged to fufpend his meritorious projeds for TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 73 for his perfonal fafety and the quiet of the kingdom. The Duke of Vifeu, at the head of a difcontented party, conrpired againft his life. His Majefty having efcapcd the hand of the affaflin three different times, fent for the Duke and walked with him in a garden, where he con- verfed with him on the relative duty of the King and the fubjed:, and at the end put this emphatic queftion to him, " What would ft thou do unto the man who attempted to " take away thy life?" To which the Duke anfwered, " I would take his firft, if I could." " Then verily," faid the King, " as Nathan faid to David, Thou art the man !" and immediately plunged a dagger into his breaft. This was the Prince to whom Pope Alexander the Sixth, out of the plenitude of his generofity, prefented one half of the globe, to put an end to the difpute be- tween the Crowns of Portugal and Caftile, relativ^e to the fovereignty of the Ocean. Here was the manner his Holi- nefs adjufted the bufinefs : he meafured one hundred leagues to the Weft ward of the Cape Verd Iflands, from which point he ordered a line to be drawn from pole to pole : then taking his fpiritual fedor, he divided this round O into two parts, and gave the Eaftern hemifphere, with all its lands and feas, to the King of Portugal ; the other he prefented to the King of Caftile ; interdidling, at the fame time, all but the fubjedls of the two Crowns to vifit thofe parts, under pain of excommunication. But King John, not fatisfied with his fhareof the orb, infifted L that 74 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. that his rival was entitled, not to a hemifphere, but to a fegment. The Minifters of the two contending Powers at length met, and decided the bufinefs, \yy extending the line of feparation two hundred and feventy leagues farther to the Weft, than his Holinefs had appointed. Leiria, One of the moft ancient cities in Portugal, is fituated on the banks of the river Lis, in the midft of a fertile country, finely diverfified with hill and dale. The foil is fo productive, that with little labour it yields abun- dance of corn, grapes, and olives ; yet with all thefe ad- vantages, both the plough and the loom are negledted ; no wonder then that an air of fadnefs and defolation is vifible in every ftrcet. The remains of a palace *, formerly the refidence of King Diniz, furnamed the Hufbandman, ftill makes a confpicuous figure, on the brow of a precipice contiguous to the town. It is impoflible to furvey thofe veftiges, » A great part of that palace is thought bearing a figure of a b^ll on the re- to have been built of the fragments of an verfe, finely executed. The name perhaps ancient city called Callipo,' which Hif- fhould be written Calliope. As it was a tory (liews to have once flouriflied near Roman city ; it might have been fo called this place. I faw a gold coin that was after the mother of Orpheus, and Mufe of lately found there among the rubbilh, Epic Poefy. w^ithout TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 75 without emotions of honour and veneration for the me- mory of a Monarch who ftudied the intereft of his country and of the human race, by his havdng wifely converted the fpear into the plough-fhare. When King Diniz had fecured the tranquillity of his dominions, he turned his attention towards the cultivation of the foil : his firfl ftep towards the accomplilhment of this great object was to reftrain the feudal fyftem, under which the wretched peafantry had long groaned ; and the better to promote his favourite purfuit, he eredled farm- houfes in every part of the kingdom, which he vidted in rotation, and diftributed gratuitoufly all kinds of imple- ments of agriculture among the hufbandmen, whom he conlidered as the pillars of the ftate, and the peaceful companions of Nature. Portugal, which now-a-days does not annually pro- duce fufficient corn for three months home confumption, was conlidered in his reign as one ot the firft granaries in Europe. This fcarcity, as fom.e have erroneoully fup- pofed, is not to be attributed to any change in the foil, (for that is permanent, if any thing terreflrial can be called permanent,) but to a great change in the fentiments of the people. The modern Portuguefe, contrary to the maxims of their anceflors, feek for wealth far from Lu- fitania, in the deep mines of the Brafils ; whiift they forget that more fubftantial wealth may be found in L 2 their 76 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. their native fields, and that within fix inches of the fiir- face. King Diniz was fo well afiTured of the truth of this, from the knowledge he had of the productions of the country, that he never had occalion to apply to his neighbours for the necelTaries or luxuries of life ; it even fupplied him with gold and filvcr. He had a magni- ficent crown and fceptre made of gold colledled on the fands of the Tagus. But, alas ! even the moft exalted charaders are taxed by, humanity with fome imperfedlion. He is charged, like our illuftrious Henry the Second, with too great a paflirm for the fair fex. He had not, however, the fame apology for departing from his conjugal ties as the Britifh hero ; for his Queen pofTefled every virtue that can adorn her fex. Far from vifiting the fins of the father upon the children, fhe took all his illegitimate offspring (who were not a fewj under her protedlion, and had them educated with as much care and tendernefs as her own. And thus, by her patient and meek behaviour, we are told that fhe prevailed on him to abandon that vice at a good old age. This pious Queen was canonized in the reign of Philip the Fourth ot Spain. There is one noble inflitution of Don Diniz ftill extant, which will ever bear teftimony of his wifdom ; that is, the celebrated Univerfity of Coimbra, which he founded in the year one thoufand two hundred and ninety-one. He J 3 alfo TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 77 alfo planted the foreft at Marinha, which is one of the moil: exteniive in Europe. Portugal has, and ftill con- tinues to derive more advantage from thefe fettlements, than from all the vidories of King Emanuel. Camoens, fenfible of the merits of fo great a Prince, has paid the following tribute to his memory : Now brave Diniz reigns, whofe noble fire Befpoke the genuine lineage of his Sire *. Now heavenly peace wide wav'd her olive bough, Each vale difplay'd the labours of the plough, And fmil'd with joy : the rocks on every Ihore Refound the daihing of the merchant-oar. Wife laws are form'd, and conftitutions weigh'd,. And the deep-rooted bafe of Empire laid. Not Ammon's fon with larger heart beftow'd f, Nor fuch the grace to him the Mufes ow'd. From Helicon the Mufes wing their way ; Mondego's flow'ry banks invite their ftay. Now Coimbra fhines, Minerva's proud abode ;; And fir'd with joy, Parnaflus' bloomy God Beholds another dear-lov'd Athens rife, And fpread her laurels in indulgent flcies. . Luftad^ book iii. * King Diniz was the eldeft fon of families and nobility of Spain. A few Alfonfo the Third. He was born at Lif- days before he returned home, a Caftiliaa bon on the 9th of O£lober i2f)i. gentleman obferved, whilft he was at din-- ■}- The liberality of Diniz became pro- ner, that his Majefty's munificence ex- verbial. When he was appointed as arbi- tended to every one except himfelfj upon trator to compofe the difference which which Diniz defired him to. take the only fubfifted between the Kings of Caftile and prefent he had left of what he had brought Arragon, he made the mod valuable pre- with him ; that was, the filver table upon fents ever known in his time to the royal which he dined. - There yt TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. There is a confiderable fair held annually in the city of Leiria, on the twenty-fifth of March. It was much crowd- ed with dealers, who expofed to fale various, articles of Englifli manufad:ure, particularly woollen cloths of a fe- cond quality, and hard-ware of every kind. The prin- cipal articles furnifhed by the natives were plate, jewellery, linen cloths, and pottery ; the quantity of the former was very great, but more to be valued for the weight than the workmanfhip. In a confpicuous part of the market, two French Char- letans ereded their booths j one a doftor, the other a dentift. The latter ftood on a table, and performed feats of empiricifm that aftonifhed the gaping crowd ; and in reality his dexterity in tooth-drawing was very remarkable, they feemed to fly from their rooted focket at the touch of his finger. He affured me, that he expedted to earn a moidore a day during the fair, though he charged the poor but ten reis a tooth. The dodor, who vended his pmiacea under an adjoining fhed, had not fo many patients as his companion, nor were his abilities fo apparent to the vulgar, though he bore all the external marks of a perfon of deep refearch ; he was fhort- fighted, pale, meagre, and wrinkled as a rib-flocking ; yet thti^ fapient i?tdices were lofl on the multitude. His long and fuccefbful practice, he faid, had enabled him to condenfe TRAVELS IM PORTUGAL. n condenfe the whole pharmacoposla into one medicine, which (though in fad: but a fimple falve) he applied in- difcriminately to all complaints, whether chronical or acute ; and ** With this he cur'd both poor and rich, " Yet was himfelf all over itch." A ftranger has an opportunity of oblcrving the per- fonal ftate of the inferior clafs of this diftrift, from the number of peafantry who flock annually to the fair. Their appearance in general indicates more happinefs than is pro- mifed by the uncultivated ftate of the land. The men wear {hort brown jackets, and boot s of the fame colour ; each carries a ftaff about feven feet long, which he wields in combat with great dexterity. The women wear long clokes, of a red or pearl colour, fringed with ribands ; their necks and wrifts are orna- mented with gold chains. The former fex are remarkably low of ftature and feeble, which fome attribute to their eating too much oil : but if that operated as the caufe, we ihould exped to find the females affeded by it in like manner : whereas it is juft the reverfe ; for they are ftrong, well-proportioned, and though but of a moderate fize, yet when ranged with the men they look like Amazons, and if they poflefled their gallantry or warlike fpirit, they might transfer the diftaff 3 to So TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. to their hufbands, and lord it over them like the women of Metelin. In the Cathedral of this city I witnefled a fpedlacle very humiliating to our nature. It was on a Sunday, during divine fervice, when a woman, about the age of iive-and- twenty, poffefled of an evil fpirit, as it was fuppofed, en- tered the church. The Sacriftan con dueled her before one of the lateral chapels, where fhe flood with her mouth open, making a hideous noife, which feemed to iffue from the ve7iter. The painful fenfations her eyes and coun- tenance expreffed, excited the commiferation of all the congregation \ but I could find none capable of giving any fatisfaftory reafon refpedling the caufe or nature of Jier diftemper. May 28th. The feafon now arrived in which the people are entertained with buU-feafts. After an abfence of fome weeks I returned to Leiria to fee the diverfion, and was furprifed to find the effedl it had on the inhabit- ants, particularly the lower clafs, who, with every de- monftration of joy, teftified their attachment for that favourite amufement. The combat was exhibited in a quadrangular area, or fquare, formed by the houfes in the middle of the city. The fpe a fmall aperture where the Bees enter. The in fide is- 3 divided 86 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. divided into three equal divifions, which are feparated by crofs fticks : here the Bees form their combs or cells. " When the Bees fwarm, which is ufually in the month of May or June, the hives are placed to receive them where they alight. If they defcend on a tree, they are fhaken off: the perfon who performs this operation muft not be afraid of them, as they do not commonly fling unlefs they are irritated ; it will be fafer, however, to cover the head with a wire-malk, and the hands with gloves. " Some Bees are fo wild, that they fly away in attempt- ing to collect them, but they may be caught again 'in this manner : a fheet is placed by night on the ground contigu- ous to the fwarm, and when they alight, the hive is placed over them, with the entrance Hopped, then the whole is covered with a fheet, in which they are carried home. But they fliould not be placed near the hive whence they had. originally departed. *' When the time arrives for taking out the honey- combs, which is generally in the month of June, when the flowers begin to decay, it fhould be done in the heat of the day, as the greater part of the bees are then abroad, but not during a high wind, or at the commencement of a new or full moon. The hiver muft have his face and TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 87 and hands defended, as above mentioned, and accompa- nied by a perfon holding a chafing-difh, with a coal-fire, covered with moift peat, to make the greater fmoke : this fmoke being infufed among the Bees from the top of the cylinder, they fly away, or remain intoxicated at the bot- tom, then the hive is taken to pieces, by drawing out the pins. The combs are cut out without deftroying the Bees, except two cells, which are left around the hive ; and left the Bees fhould feed on what remains, the incifion is co- vered v/ith pulverized clay ; after this the hive is put to- gether as before. *' The combs fhould not be taken out but when they are full of honey ; it is rarely good the firft year the Bees aflemble. In the months of March and Auguft the wax is taken out, which is lodged in the firft divifion of the hive, after which the Bees form other combs, and ge- nerate a young colony. ** The hiver fhould often vifit the ground, and repair any accidents that have happened. If fnakes frequent the place, they ftiould not be killed, fince they do not moleft the Bees, but deftroy the toads and lizards, which are obnoxious to them. *' When the hives are decayed, they are taken afunder and fumigated J then the Bees forfake their habitations, and take fhelter in an adjoining hive, previoufly prepared for II that 8^^ TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. that purpofe. This fhoiild be performed in the Spring, ■when the flowers begin to open and afford them fuccour. The fame method may be ufed in taking out the honey ; but if repeatedly pradifed, it will extinguifh the colony. " As the Bees, in returning from their excurflons, are loaded and fatigued, there fhould be nothing near the hives to obftrud their defcent, which is not in a perpen- dicular courfe, but in an oblique one." Royal Monafiery of Alcohaqa. The Royal Monaftery of Alcoba5a is feated in a pretty village of the fame name, about fifteen leagues North of Lifbon ; it is well fheltered, particularly towards the Weft, by rifing grounds, which gradually afcend to an immenfe elevation. Every part of the neighbouring country is well cultivated, and produces corn and fruit of various kinds. In examining the origin of the religious ftru£lures of the twelfth century, we find the greater part of them have been founded in grateful remembrance of fome divine favour in battle, or elfe with a view to expiate the fins of the founder ; fo that they may not be improperly called the temples of gratitude and repentance. This magni- ficent TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 89 ficent flru6lure is indebted for its origin to the former caufe. It was founded in the year one thoufand one hun- dred and feventy, by Alphonfo the firft King of Portugal, in confequence of taking the fortrefs of Santerem from the Moors, the capture of which he previoufly vowed to commemorate by a Monaftery. Faria relates, that St. Barnard (who at this time redded in Claravallis in France) being infpired with the King's pious determination, fent two Monks to begin the Mo- jiaftery on the very day the vow was made. It is further obferved, that the lite originally intended for it, is not that on which it is built; as the lines were laid out to dig the foundation clofe to the road, an Angel came in the night and carried them feveral feet back, to a more eligible iituation. This remarkable circumftance is reprefented in a large painting, to be feen at this day in the gallery of the Hofpitium. The fame Angel would have done a laudable adlon, by extending a limilar adl of kindnefs to the parifli church, which is raifed oppoiite to the Monaftery, in the centre of the high-road ; a Iituation better adapted tor a triumphal arch than a houfe of worlhip. Miracles of this fort, though rarely known in our days, were not, it feems, uncommon in former times. We are allured by very grave Writers, that when Conftantine the N Great 90 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Great intended to transfer the feat of empire to the EaR, he pitched on Chalcedon for the fite of his Capital ; as the. workmen began to lay the foundation of it, certain eagles, the ancient meflengers of Jove, carried away the lines, and let them fall over Bizantium; upon which the Em- peror altered his refolution, and built his city ^^'here it now ftands. It is much to be regretted, that thefe guardians of ar- chite6lure do not pay a vilit to London ; very few of the citizens would be forry to hear that St. Clement's church in the Strand was numbered among the above mirac les. But to return to our fubjed : This Monaftery might be faid to commemorate three remarkable events ; viz. tlie origin of the Portuguefe Monarchy, the commencement of the Bernardine order of Monks, and the introduction of a new fpecies of architefture into that kingdom, which our antiquaries call Modern Norma?! Gothic. The Church is entirely built in this ftyle, except the Weft front, which is more modern than the reft, and exhibits a feledtion of the defeds of the Tufcan and Gothic ftvles. On entering the Church at the Weft front, one is ftruck with the grandeur of that general effedl peculiar to the inftde of Gothic Churches, but very few poffefs that property to a higher degree than this. The profped at the 8 Eaft TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 91 Eaft end is terminated by a magnihcent Glory, placed over the altar, at the diftance of three hundred feet from the en- trance ; but the apparent diftance is confiderably more, on account of the narrownefs of the nave, and the regular fuc- ceflion of the pillars, which are twenty- fix in number ; that is, thirteen at each fide. The longitudinal diftance from the centre of one pillar to that of the other is but feventeen feet three inches : according to the rules obferved in the bell proportioned Gothic edifices, this diftance is too little by one-third. The proportion of the pillars is likevvife de- fedtive ; their dimenfions being greater than the impulfe of the vaults require. Indeed, the archited: appears not to have been acquainted with the kx minimutn in con- ftrudlion, which experience or fcience taught his fucceflbrs in this art. On the whole, there is very little difference between the architedlurc of this ftrudure and that called Ancient Norman, or Saxon, except that the arches, in- ftead of being femicircular, as in the latter, are pointed ; in other refpe6ts we obferve the defedlive proportions and rude fculpture of the Saxon churches in every part : the capitals, in particular, are almoft plain blocks ; the bafe*; of the pillars have but few mouldings • the ribs of the vaults and architraves of the windows want that depth and fharpnefs which produce an air of lightnefs. The Eafl end, or choir, is of a femicircular form, after the manner of the ancient Churches, or Bafilifks, and which the Abbe Fleury fuppofcs to have been made in thatman- N 2 ner <)a TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ner by the Chriftians, to imitate that part of the Jewilli Temples where the Sanhedrim affembled. The Gothic work which formerly decorated the choir, is now concealed by Grecian columns, with their ap- pendages. This alteration was made about eighteen. years ago by an Englifh fculptor, named William Elfden, at the requeft of the Friars. Nothing can be more difgufting to every admirer of antiquity, or indeed any man of the leaft tafte, than this jumble of Grecian work, patched up in the moft ftriking part of a ftrudlure, executed in the fimple Gothic manner. As the Church of Alcoba9a is one of the earlieft fpe- cimens of the modern Norman Gothic in Europe, and per- haps the moft magnificent of the early period in which it was founded, we fhould be glad, were it not foreign to our fubjecl, to give a more particular account of its archi- te<5lure, and to illuftrate the fame by engravings. We fhould then be enabled to make it appear, that the con- iedlures refpefting the origin of the Gothic ftyle are not warranted from this edifice^ as we find nothing in it that has the moft diftant refemblance to bowers or groves, to Moorifli or Saracenic architecture, whence the pointed arch is fuppofed to be derived. The Weft front of the Monaftery, including the churcli, which is in the centre, extends fix hundred and twenty feet J TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 93 feet, the depth is about feveii hundred and fifty feet. The inelofed fpace is occupied by dormitories, galleries, cloifters, &c. A Portuguefe Writer, in fpeaking of the magnificence of this Monaftery, obferves, that its cloif- ters are cities, its facrifty a church, and the church a bafililk. The better to convey an idea of it, we fiiall give the dimenfions of fome of the apartments. The kitchen, for example, is near an hundred feet long, by twenty-two broad, and fixty-three feet high from the floor to the intrados of the vault. The fire-place is twenty eight feet long by eleven broad, and is placed, not in the wall, but in the centre of the floor ; fo that there is accefs to it at every fide. The chimney forms a pyramid refting upon eight columns of caft iron. A fubterranean flream of \Aater pafles through the centre of the floor, which is occa- fionally madg to overflow the pavement, in order to^ cleanfe it. • Notwithftanding the magnitude of this apartment, there is not an inch of il unoccupied from morning till night ; for all the indjftry of the Convent is concentred in it; the operations are carried on under the infpedtion of one of the lay-brothers. The refedlory is ninety-two feet long by fixty-eight broad 5 the bieadth is divided into three porticos by two feries 94 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. feries of ftone columns. The tables are placed next tlie two fide and end walls ; at the extreme end, where the Prior takes his feat, are two large pidures ; the one repre- fenting the Lad Supper, the other Chrift and the two Difciplcs at Emmaus. We fliould not omit to notice the cellar, as it is one of the moft valuable apartments belonging to the Monaftery ; there are forty large caflcs in it, which are fuppofed to contain near feven hundred pipes of wine. It is very remarkable, that thefe people, avowedly afiembled for the purpofe of ftudying as well as praying, have not a library in their convent, "unlefs that deferves the name of one which is not larger than a clofet, and fcarcely contains as many books as there are pipes of wine in the cellar. The North Weft wing of the Monaftery is fet apart for the reception of ftrangers ; hence it is called the Mofpitium^ the whole extent, which is two hundred and thirty feet, is diftributed into ftately and convenient apartments. In the anti-rooms are fome good pidiures, particularly one of the Judgment of Solomon, and feveral portraits of Popes and Cardinals, very well executed, by a PortugJiefe artift named Vafqiies ; among the latter we find the po.rtrait of St. Thomas of Canterbury. The TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 9^ The rooms of flate are furnifhed with the portraits of the Sovereigns of Portugal, from the commencement of the Monarchy to the prefent : they have been lately painted by an artift named A?ittfio Amarel. I am forry that truth will not allow me to fay that they are well done ; the painter appears to have been an utter ftranger to light and fliade, and had but a very imperfect idea of drawing. There is one portrait here, painted by a Portuguefe lady named yofepha^ that is worth the whole colledlion. The above feries of portraits are ranged in the follow- ing chronological fucceflion : I. Alfonso I. the founder of this Monaftery, and the firft King of Portugal, vixitanno 77, chit anno 1. Sancho I, 3- Alphonso II. 4- Sancho II, 5- Alfonso III, 6. Deniz I. 7- Alfonso IV". 8. Peter I.. 9- Ferdinand I 10. John I. II. Edward I. 12. Alfonso V. II85. 121 I. 1223. 1248. 1279. 1357- 1367- 1383- 1433- 1438. I 481. 13. John II. 14. Emanuel I, - - 15. John III. 16. Sebastian I. - - 17. Henr-y I. - - 18. Philip II. ofCaftile, - 19. Philip III. 20. Philip IV. 21. John IV. 22. Alfonso VI. 23. Peter II. 24. John V. - 25. Joseph I. - - 26. Queen Maria I. born 17th December chit ^nno 1495. 1521. 1557- - -1578. 1580. 1598. 1621. 1665. 1656. 1683, 1706. 1750. 1777- 1 734^ In the apartment called the Hall of Kings, are feveral Statues of the Sovereigns of Portugal, made of Plafter of Paris, feme placed in niches, and others ftanding on corbels at «( TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. at the height of eight or nine feet. The name of the artift I do not remember ; nor perhaps will it ever be found regiftered in the catalogue of the imitators of nature. The third day after my arrival here, I was conducted by -two of the Fathers up feveral flights of flairs to the Novices apartment ; on entering the gallery I found about a fcore of them, between the age of fourteen and eighteen, drawn up in a line, like a fquadron of foldiers ; they ftood in a reclined poflure, with their eyes fixed on the ground, whilft their Superior, called the Fadj-e Mejlre^ ftood op- pofite to them, with a book in his hand. I was not a little furprifed to find that the prefence of a ftranger did not induce any of them to raife his head. The Novices chapel contains one of the fineft colle6lion of pidlures in the kingdom. I had only time to exa- mine a few of them attentively (without trefpafling too much on the patience of the Fathers) ; one was a fmall figure of a Madona, fuppofed to be painted by Titian : it is certainly in his manner ; the colouring is exqui- fite, and though thinly laid on, the effed: is grand and forcible, from the artful manner in which the different tints are contrafted. Strangers, I underftand, are but feldom allowed to vifit the Novices apartments, other- wife I would have taken a catalogue of this valuable cjollcdion. From TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 97 From thence I pafled to the oppofite fide, through a corridore, at each fide of which is a range of fmall cells, belonging to the Novices, who had now retired into them ; the dimenfions of each might be about fourteen feet by nine. I wifhed to fee the infide, but was told the Su- perior had the keys. In one of the doors was a fmall aperture, through which I obferved a graceful youth, of a pale and macerated countenance, about the age of fix- teen ; he was drefled in a long black robe, on his knees, in the ad: of prayer, with a rofary in his hand ; his eyes were fixed on a crucifix. The walls about him were with- out pictures, or any other ornament ; and, left the view of external objects fhould interrupt the courfe of his me- ditation, there was but one fmall aperture in the cell to ad- mit day, and that was placed next the cieling ; the bottom and fides of it were fplayed fpmewhat like a loop-hole, fo that the rays of the evening 'Sun, which now fhone through it, fell on his tonfure, whilft all about him ap- peared in fhade. Had Raphael transferred the fupplicatory objeft to the canvafs, he could not have chofen light better adapted to produce a grand effed. It is not my intention to interfere with the dodrine of the church, relative to the extinction or regulation of the palTions ; I fhall only obferve, that if obedience and foli- tude are foremoft in the clafs of virtues, great mufl be the reward of thefe probations. o In 9$ TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. In order that the Fathers might want for nothing that contributes to the convenience or happinefs of the mo- naftic life ; they are accommodated with a large garden at the rear of the church, which is planted with trees and fhrubs, and diftributed into pleafant walks. Here they recreate themfelves every afternoon. At intervals there are arbours formed in the thickets, and furniflied with benches, where the Friars retire from the heat of the Sun, to ftudy or meditate. In the centre of the garden is a fine oval pond, of an hundred and thirty feet on the tranfverfe dia- meter, with an obelifk in the centre of it. There are various cyprefs trees at the farther end of the garden, the leaves of which are ingeniouJJy formed by the {hears into figures reprefenting men ; fome in the aft of {hooting, and others praying ; fome with long cues, and others with perukes. This fpecies of fculpture, though hitherto not clafled among the branches of the fine arts, approaches the neareft to Nature, perhaps, of any other ; for thefe Sylvan figures abfolutely grow, and are daily fed, with the produce of the foil. They have their Winter and Summer, Spring and Autumn, their exiftence and diffolution, like other animated beings. Contiguous to the above garden there is a rabbit-warren belonging to the Monaftery, upon a conftrudion different from any I had ever fecn. It is two hundred feet long by I an TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 99 an hundred and twenty-five broad, inclofed on every fide by walls about fixteen feet high. The floor is paved with large fquare flags, and. the joints filled with cement. There are little flieds ranged along the foot of the wall, where oval earthen pots are placed, of eleven inches in depth by nine inches in height. The front of each has a round tube through which the rabbit enters ; here they breed, and. rear up their young ones. On the area of the warren are alfo feveral ranges of pots, apparently fet apart for the male rabbits. The whole, which are faid. to amount to five or fix thoufand, are fed with plants brought from the neighbouring fields and gardens, together with the offals of the Convent. The Fathers of this Convent, like thole we before mentioned at Oporto, are not allowed to appear on foot out of doors, except in the gardens belonging to their Monaftery ; fuch as have occafion to go abroad travel on mules, or in carriages ; they have a number of thefe ani- mals in their ftables, which it feems they prefer to horfes, but for what reafon I could, not learn, perhaps from mo- tives of humility ; for Guevara tells us, that till his time, it was a mark of difgrace in Spain for a gentleman to ride on a mule, John the Second of Portugal, finding the breed of horfes nearly extind, endeavoured to revive them in his domi- nions by prohibiting the ufe of mules. The clergy re- o 2 fufed loo TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. fufed to comply with the ordinance, and appealed to the Pope to juftify them. But the King, not willing to fall out with this clafs of his fubjedts, on confideration, thought it prudent to revife the edi The King, who was a man of weak underftanding, gave ear to their calumny, and they worked upon his pafTions to that degree, that he refolved to murder the unfortunate Princefs. Accordingly, he fet out to perpe- trate the horrid deed, accompanied by three of his courtiers and a number of armed men. Dona Ignez at this time refided in Coimbra, in the palace of Santa Clara, where fhe paffed her time in the moft private manner, educating her children, and attend- ing to the duties of her domeftic affairs. The Prince, unfortunately, was abroad on a hunting party when the 'Kins: arrived. The beautiful victim came out to meet him, with her two infant children, who clung about his knees, fcreaming aloud for mercy. She pro- ftrates herfelf at his feet, bathes them with tears, and fup- plicates pity for her children, befceching him to banifh her to fome remote defert, where fhe would gladly wander an exile with her babes. 3 The TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. . 115 The feelings of Nature arrefted his arrrij juft raifed to phinge a dagger into her breaft. But his counfellors urging the neceflity of her death, and reproaching him for his difregard to the welfare of the nation, he relapfed into his former refolution, and commanded them to difpatch her ; at which they rudied forward, regardlefs of the cries of innocence and beauty, and inftantly ftruck ofF her head ! Soon after the above tranfadtion the Prince arrived ; but, alas ! found thofe eyes that were wont to watch his return with impatience, clofed in death. The fight of his beloved Ignez weltering in gore filled his mind with diftradtion, and kindled every fpark of revenge within his foul. In all the agony of rage, he called aloud on the avenging hand of Heaven to punifii thofe monfters who deprived him of all he held dear upon earth. As foon as her remains were interred, he put hinifelf at the head of an army, who fympathized with his diilrcfs; they carried fire and fvvord through the adjacent provinces, and laid wafte the eftates of the murderers. The roval troops could not oppofe them 3 they fled at the appearance of the gallant avengers of innocence. But the King, wretched man ! could not fly from himfelf ; the cries of his grand-children ftill echoed in his ears, and the bleed- ing image of their unfortunate mother v/as conftantly be- fore his eyes. Death at length commiferated his fituation, CL2 and ii6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. and he expired full of repentance for his accumulated crimes. He was an undutiful fon, an unnatural brother, and a cruel father. The Prince now afcended the throne, in the thirty- feventh year oi his age. He no fooner obtained the power, than he meditated to revenge the death of his beloved Ignez. The three murderers ; namely, Pedro Coello, Diogo Lopez Pacheo, and Alvaro Gonfalvez, had fled into Caftile, previous to the death of the late King. The Prince ordered them to be tried on a charge of high trea- fon, and being found guilty, their eftates were confifcated. Next, he contrived to feize their perfons, by agreeing with the King of Caftile that both fhould reciprocally de- liver up the Portuguefe and Caftilian fugitives, who fought protedlion in their refpedtive dominions. Gonfalvez and Coello were accordingly arrefted, and fent in chains to Portugal J Pacheo efcaped into France. The King was at Santerem w^hen the delinquents were brought to him ; he inftantly ordered them to be laid on pyre that was previoufly formed, contiguous to which he had a banquet prepared. Before the torch was kindled, and whilft they agonized at every pore under the moft lingering tortures, their hearts were cut out, one at his breaft, the other at his back. Laftly, the pyre was fet on a blaze, in prefence of which he dined, whilft they eva-- porated in flames. Having TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 117 Having thus far appcaifed his infatiable thirfl: of revenge, he ordered his marriage with Dona Ignez to be publifhed throughout the kingdom ; then her body was taken out of the fepulchre, covered with regal robes, and placed on a magnificent throne, around which his miniilers affembled, and did homage to their lawful Queen. After this ceremony, her corpfe was tranflated from Co- imbra to Alcobaca, with a pomp hitherto unknown in the kingdom ; though the diftance between thcfe two places is fifty two miles, yet the road was lined on both fides all the way, with people holding lighted tapers. The funeral was attended by all the Noblemen and Gentlemen in Portugal, dreffed in long mourning cloaks ; their Ladies alfo attended, dreffed in white mourning veils. The cloud which the above dilafter cad over the mind of Don Pedro was never totally difperfed ; and as he lived in a ftate of celibacy the remainder of his life, agreeably to his vow, there was nothing to divert his attention from ruminating on the fate of his beloved fpoufe. The im- prefiion her death made on him was ftrongly chara6lerifed, not only in the tortures he infiided on her murderers, but alfo in all the a6ls of his adminiftration, which, from their feverity, induced fome to give him the appellation of Pedro the Cruel ; by others he was called Pedro the Juft : and, upon the whole, it appears that the laft title moft properly appertained to him. 10 It ii8 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. It muft be allowed, however, that he punifhed fome offences rather feverely, particularly in cafes of adultery. In all tranfgreflions of this nature, his laws were more rigid than thofe of Solon, as will appear by tlie fol- lowing inftances : He ordered a man to be hanged for having had communication with a v/oman previous to his marriage with her. Another, detected in the adl of adultery, was, with his miftrefs, committed to the flames. A Friar, who was difcovered to be the fa- ther of a boy who flruck his nominal father, was put into a cafe formed of cork, and fawed through the body. Now, it is furprifing that Don Pedro himfelf fhould have been guilty of fins limilar to thofe for which he in- flided fuch ignominious deaths on others. Yet fuch is the fa6t : witnefs his amours with Dona Tereza Lorenza, by whom he had that illuftrious character Don John, the founder of Batalha. (See page 50.) Indeed, his manner of punifhing other offences was Icfs reprehenfible. To give an inftance ; a gentleman having borrowed fome {ilver utenfils of a countryman, refufed, after many felicitations, to return the fame; upon which the lender, finding all other means ineffedlual, ap- pealed to the King, who made the gentleman not only return the goods to the owner, but alfo pay him nine times TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 119 times their value, the penalty to which thieves were then fubjed: ; and further, made him refponfible for the coun- tryman's life. The clergy, who hitherto could not be tried for alleged offences but by the eccleiiaftical court, he rendered ame- nable to the common courts of juftice, and punifhed them with death when their crimes were capital. When folicited once to revife the fentence of fuch criminals, and to refer it to a higher tribunal, (meaning that of the Pope,) he anfwered very calmly, *' I ftiall mofl certainly fend them ** to the higheft of all tribunals, that of the 0?miipote?2t o To prevent all tedious litigations, and the baneful con- fequences attending them, he purged the nation of at- tornles, and limited the procedure of counfellors in fuch a manner, that a fult was determined in a few days. And when the Judge was found guilty of bribery, as was the cafe in one inftance, he immediately ordered Jilm to be hanged. In fhort, his inexorable juftice, and indefati- gable zeal to check the progrefs of vice, were fuch, that no conlideration of rank, or fortune, or particular privi- leges, could fcreen the guilty from the fword of the law. The infinite fervice he rendered the country during the ten years he reigned, have left a lafting impreilion on the minds of the Portuguefe. They have ftill a faying among them. I20 TRAVELS IN PORTQGAL. them, that Providefice either JJjotdd not have fcnt PedrOy or elje not have taken hitn avoay. It remains for us now to fpeak a few words refpeding the tragedies that have been formed from the Hiftory of Ignez de Cafiro. Of the two we have in Englifli, the one, named Elvira^ was copied from the French of M. de la Motte. Tlie other is named Liez de Cajlro ; and was pub- lifhed in the year one thoufand {ix hundred aud ninety- fix. As the public are already well acquainted with the merits of thefe two, we fliall notice only thofe written in the Portuguefe, Spanifli, and French languages. And as thefe are not, perhaps, generally known among us, we fhall give a few parallel extrafts from each ; by which the reader, who is acquainted with thefe languages, may be enabled to form fome idea of their refpedlive merits, and of the ftate of the drama in the above na- tions. The fcene to which the following extradts allude, is that wherein Ignez^ accompanied by her two children, is fupplicating the King for mercy the moment before £he is murdered. From TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. i2t From ihe Portuguese o/* Nicola Luis. Jgnez. Pleclade, Senhor, B-ci, Como poflb livrar-te do caftlgo, Se todo hum Reino tens per inimlgo. Ignez, Oh mizera de mim ! filhos amados, Efpelho em que os meus olhos fe reviao ! ******* Jff. Se accazo nao tern do de minha mai, Entao nao quero fer ja feu amigo. Rei. Nao ha remedio, os filhos Ihe tirai. Alv. e Egas. Vinde, infantes. Jff. Deixai-me v6s tambem, Se nao, hei de dizello a meu pai, Que vos ha de matar com huma efpada. Tgnez. Meu filhos me lavais : oh defgrafada, Nao me mateis, Senhor, por tantas vezes, Tornai eflas rellquias aos meus brayos. Mas ai ! que intenta a forfa da crueldade Partir-me a coracao em mil peda90s. Rei, Ja he multo esfor^ar a tolerancia ! Opprimido, ai de mIm de mortal ancia I\Ie finto em mal tao forte. Egas, Alvaro, oh Ceos ! ficai com ella, Que nao me atrevo a vera fua morte. Ignez. Com eftes inimigos defliumanos Me delxais ! que rigor ! foltai tirannos Soltai os meus infantes : Luzes minhas, A abrayar-me tornai, neftes retires. Em voffos lindos roftos, Recebei os meus ultimos fufpiros : Mas ja falta o valor, os juflos Ceos ! R Ret. 122 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Rei. Vinde, meus Netos. pega Jios vicnlnos. Aff. Mlnha Mai, a Deos, Que por forfa nos leva noflb Av6. Igficz. Ah ! meus ternos amores minha glorias, Quando foubereis ter mais fentimentos, Funeftas vos ferao minhas memorias. E vos ingrato a propria humanidade, Que a vida me tirais na flor da idade, Vede que apello da mortal fenten9a Para aquelle Supremo Tribunal Ond-e reflo fe julga o bem, e o mal : Vade que mas ai trifle ! a luz do dia Aos meus alhos fe vai efcurecendo. Treme o pe mal feguro e da agonia Me vai ja foffocando o horror tremcndos Filhos, Filhos, eu morro ! Pedro, Efpozo ! Onde cftas, que em martirio tao penozo, Nao vens a foccorrer me, ah. homicida, ^ O furor efcuzais, que eflou fern vida. From the Spanish of Velez d£ Guevara. Ines. A mis hijos me quitais ? Rey Don Alonfo, Senor ; Porque me quereis quitav La vida de tantas vezes ? Advertid, Senor mirad, Que el cora9on a pedafos Dividio me arancais. Rey. Levaldos, Alvar Gonzalez. Jncs. FJijos mios, donde vais ? Donde vais fin vueftra madrc ? Faka TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 123 Falta en los hombres pledad Adonde vais luzes mais ? Co mo, que affi me dexais En el mayor defconfuelo En manos de la crueldad. Nino Alons. Confuelate madre mia, Y a Dios de puedas quedar. Que vamos con nueftro abuelo, Y no querra hazernas mal. Ines» Poflible es, Senor, Rey mio. Padre, que anfi me cerreis La puerta para el perdon ? ^ % % ^ ^ Como, Senor ? vos os vals Y a Alvar Gon9alez, y a Coello Inhumanos me entregais ? Hijos, hljos de mi vida, Dexad me los abra^ar j Alonfo, mi vida hijo, Dionis, a mores, tornad, Tornad a ver vueftra madre : Pedro mio, donde eftas Que anfi te olvidas de mi ? Poflible es que en tanto mal Me falta tu villa, efpofo ? Quien te pudiera avifar Del peligro en que afligida Dona Ines tu efpofa efta. R 2 Fror* 124 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. From the French of M. de la Motte. J/tcs. Eh bien, Seigneur, fuivez vos barbares maxlmes j On vous amene encor de nouvelles vidlimes. Lnmolez fans remords, & pour nous punir mieux, Ces gages d'un himen fi coupable a vos yeux. lis ignorent le fang dont le Ciel les fit naitre : Par I'arret de leur mort faites-les reconnoitre : Confommez votre ouvrage ; & que les memes coups Rejoignent les enfans, & la femme & I'epoux. Alphonfo, Que vois-je ! & quels dlfcours ! que d'horreurs j'envifage \ lues. Seigneur, du defefpoir, pardonnez le langage. Tons deux a votre troue ont des droits folemnels. Embrailez, mez enfans, ces genoux paterneis. D'un ceil compatifTant, regardez I'un & I'autre ; N'y voiez point mon fang, n'y voiez que le votre. Pourriez-vous refufer a. leur pleurs, a leurs cris La grace d'un heros, leur pere & votre fils ? Puifque la loi trahie exige une vidlime, Alon fang eft pret, Seigne\ir, pour expier mon crime* Epuifez fur moi feule un fevere couroux ; Mais cachez quelque terns mon fort a mon epoux ; II mourroit de douleur ; & je me flate encore, De meriter de vous ce fecret que j'iraplore. The TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL, 12^^ The Reader will not be a little furprifed on comparing the preceding paffages, to find how inferior the French Writer is to the Portuguefe or the Spaniard. Both Ltns and Guevara exprefs the natural feelings of the fair vidim, and the poignant anguifh which overwhelm her, from the apprehenfion of being deprived of her children, her lover, and her life. De la Motte^ on the contrary, gives us the idea of a daring heroine, regardlefs of all thefe endearing; confiderations. The two former have very judiciouily preferved the fpirit of the beautiful Epifode of Camoe?is ; on which Voltaire has the following remark : II y a pen d'e^idroits dans Virgile 'plus attendriffa?its &' mieux ecrits ' . There are few parts in Virgil more tender or better written. Conneiflcd, therefore, as that Epifode is with our fubjccH:, we (hall add the following extrads from ir, as tranflated by Mr. Mickle : Dragg'cl from her boxver by murderous ruffian hands. Before the frowning King fair Inez ftands ; Her tears of artlefs innocence, her air So mild, fo lovely, and her face fo fair, Mov'd the ftern Monarch ; when with eager zeal Her fierce deftroyers urg'd the public weal ; Dread rage again the tyrant's foul polfefl:, And his dark brow his cruel thoughts confed ; O'er her fair face a fuddcn palcnefs fpread, Her throbbing heart with generous anguiih bled, Her beauteous eyes in trembling tear-drops drown'd, To heaven fhe lifted, but her hands were bound ; 6 Then' 126 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Then on her infants turn'd the piteous glance, The look of bleeding woe ; the babes advance. The lovely captive thus : O Monarch, hear. It e'er to thee the name of man was dear, If prowling tygers, or the wolf's wild brood, Infpir'd by Nature with the luft of blood, Have yet been mov'd the weeping babe to fpare. Nor left, but tended with a nurfe's care ; As Rome's great founders to the world were given ; Shalt thou, who wear'ft the facred ftamp of Heaven, The human form divine, fhalt thou deny That aid, that pity, which e'en beafts fupply ? Oh, that thy heart were, as thy looks declare. Of human mould, fuperfluous were my prayer ; Thou could'ft not then a helplefs damfel flay, Whofe fole offence in fond affeclion lay. Ah, let my woes, unconfcious of a crime. Procure mine exile to fome barbarous clime : Give me to vvander o'er the burning plains Of Lybia's defarts, or the wild domains Of Scythia's fnow-clad rocks and frozen fliore ; There let me, hopelefs of return, deplore Where ghaftly horror fills the dreary vale. Where Ihrieks and bowlings die on every gale, The lions roaring, and the tygers yell. There with mine infant race confign'd to dwell ; There let me try that piety to find, In vain by me implor'd from human kind : There in Tome dreary cavern's rocky wonib, Amid the horrors of fepulchral gloom. For him whofe love I mourn, my love fhall glow The figh Ihall murmur and the tear fluall flow* In TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 127 In tears fhe utter' d — as the frozen fnow Touch'd by the Spring's mild ray, begins to flow ; So juft began to melt his ftubborn foul. As mild-ray'd Pity o'er the tyrant flole ; But Deftiny forbade : with eager zeal, Again pretended for the public weal, Her fierce accufers urged her fpeedy doom j Again dark rage diffufed its horrid gloom O'er ftern Alonzo's brow : fwift at the fign. Their fwords unfheath'd around her brandifh'd fhiae ; O foul difgrace, of knighthood lafting ftain. By men of arms an helplefs lady flain I Inez, while her eyes to Heaven appeal",. Refigns her bofom to the murdering fteel : That fnowy neck, whofe matchlcfs form fuftain'd The loveliefi: face, where all the Graces reign'd. That fnowy neck was ftain'd with fpouting gore, Another fword her lovely bofom tore. The flowers that gliften'd with her tears bedew'd, Now {hrunk and languifh'd, with her blood imbrew'dj As when a rofe erewhile of bloom fo gay. Thrown from the carelefs virgin's breaft away. Lies faded on the plain, the living red. The fnowy white, and all its fragrance fled ; So from her cheeks the rofes dy'd away. And pale in death the beauteous Inez lay : With dreadful fmiles, and crimfon'd with her blood, Round the wan vidim the ftern murderers ftood. O Sun, covildft thou fo foul a crime behold. Nor veil thine head in darknefs, as of old, A fudden night unv/onted horror caft O'er that dire banquet, where the fires rcpafi; The 128 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. The foil's torn limbs fupplied ! — yet you, ye vales ! Ye diftant forefts, and ye flowery dales ! When pale and finking to the dreadful fall, You heard her quivering lips on Pedro call ; Your faithful echoes caught the parting found, And Pedro ! Pedro ! mournful, figh'd around. Ltiftad, book Hi. On the tvventy-fecond of June I fet out for Lifbon, ac- companied by a muleteer. The evening before my de- parture I was vifited by the Reverend Abbot-general and feveral of the Superiors of the Convent ; the former fent me a prefent of fweet-meats and fcented foap, curioufly made up in boxes by Nuns of the Bernardine order. Nothing occurred on our journey the firft day worthy of noting ; the country was tolerable, the foil rich and pretty well cultivated, but the accommodations at the inns were as indifferent as ufual ; yet the maflers of thefe mi- ferable hovels think them palaces, in comparifon to the inns in the other parts of the country. yanua7'y 23. We met a number of peafants employed in making roads, the margins of which were planted with olive trees, whofe produce are to be applied to the keep- ing of the roads in repair. Spheric liin-dials and cifterns are .TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ,.9 are ereded at flated intervals for the accommodation of travellers. The manners and opulence of the capital had a vifible effect on the inhabitants in proportion as we advanced. About one o'clock we arrived at Villa Franca, quite ex- haufted from the fcorching rays of the fun, to which we had been expofed {ince five o'clock in the morning. It was with difficulty we could get any refrefhment, as ail the inhabitants of the village were gone to fleep. At five o'clock we embarked in a large pafiage-boat, and failed down the Tagus towards Lifbon. There were about fifty paffengcrs on board, divided into two clafles ; the common people occupied the hold, the reft took their feats at the ftern. About feven o'clock one of the boat- men gave the compline lignal, and all returned thanks to the Lord in a fhort prayer. Anions: thofe who fat at the flern of the boat was a man, who had apparently miftaken his rank, if one may judge by his drefs ; he was barefoot, wore a long beard, and a pilgrim's fcapulet over the remains of a Perfian habit : he was about thirty-fix years of age, of a middling ftature, well proportioned, of a fwar- thy complexion. I found by his language that he was a Spaniard. There was fomething in his manners that in- terefled me very much j his countenance was placid, and s befpoke I30 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. befpoke a firmnefs of mind, fuch as we admire in a vir- tuous man ftruggling with misfortune. I muft confefs that he excited at once my pity and efteem ; and if Fate had not placed my lot fo much on a level with his own, he fhould not want a cloak to cover him, nor a crufade in his pouch. When we arrived at Lifbon, I requefted he would per- mit me to pay his paflage ; he thanked me, faying, " I " have change fufEcient for that purpofe ; it is true, my " apparel befpeaks poverty, (looking at his bare feet,) *' therefore you may be furprifed that I had the prefump- *' tion to take my feat in your company ; but the true " Caftilian thinks himfelf degraded or honoured, not by " his garb but his adions." TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. J31 LISBON. Notvvlthftanding the city of Li{bon is theconftant refort of merchants and travellers from ev^ry part of the globe, yet it feems extraordinary that hitherto we have not been favoured with any fatisfadory account of its arts, anti- quity, police, or public buildings. I fhall not attempt to fupply thefe points ; the utmoft I can promife are a few curfory remarks on fuch objedts as came within the narrow fphere of my obfervation, during a reiidence of ten months in that city. Lifbon, the capital of Portugal, is feated upon the de- lightful banks of the Tagus, in the fruitful province of Eftremadura ; latitude 3 8° 48'. Its diftance from the bar, where the Atlantic Ocean and the river form a jundtion, is about feven miles. The harbour is very deep and ca- pacious, prefenting, to a mind devoted to commerce, one of the finefl profpedls imaginable, as it is conftantly crowded with {hips of various nations. As we approach the capital, the churches, convents, caftles, villas, and gardens on the North-weft fide, have a grand and beautiful appearance ; but the ideas of magni- ficence they excite at a diftance, are greatly diminifhed upon a clofer infpedion. The country on the South-eaft s 2 fide 1^,2 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 'J fide is alfo highly pidurefqiie, from its lofty mountains and high impending cliffs. Tlie attention is foon drawn from thefe fcenes by the appearance of the city, which gradually afcends from the verge of the river in all the magnificence of wealth and crandeur. The fite is the mod eligible imaginable for a Metropolis ; towards the North-weft it is flieltered by a ridge of mountains, and opened towards the South-eaft. The buildings are raifed on feven hills, with their inter- mediate vallics ; the greater part of which command a pro- fpeft of the river, and of the country on the oppofite iide, called Alenteju ; any difadvantage, therefore, attending the inequality of the ground is compenfated by the beau- tiful profpefts its elevation afford, and its vicinity to the fea renders it at once delightful and healthy. The nar- roweft part of the river Tagus, oppofite to the city, is computed at two miles Englifh, and at the broadeft part it is not lefs than nine. When we refled; on the advantages Portugal enjoys in point of commerce, from fuch a mag- nificent river and commodious harbour, fo happily fituated for trading with the Eaftern and Weftern hemifpheres, we cannot but wonder that Lifbon is not fuperior in riches, magnitude, and population to any capital in Europe. Here follows an account of the fhips of various nations which entered the port of Lifbon in the year one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-nine. 3 from aEyERAL FLAX oftlie CITY of LI SB ON in tlu' War * ^^' ^ 4 - , A\- A. -//i\ t I V Hiis/i'Mi- X..S'".'i/,i.\- yiit,/':' J SI'MiliiBoiiMittic .)' (i.'i'".'"('i>i>ii':;i,S..'hnfo ''.> J'niiii ilnRi'i'in /("Z /.rlli/lllfll Ks/H I-'" v> Pniiii ilii FiilU'iiii V" J'mrii iliS.J'iiiilo -T I'miti do I'/iniio ■/,s- J'nir,! i/iKsJii-iiiii/iiii-.i ?.v S'''t:it,i t/ii Jlhii/:' "/ I'nuyi ifii l'iii]in S'.'' •,'V Pitiiii (ills fill iiS •,'<> . iii-iiiiil ilii .Miiiiiilin .»v» Pniiii iliis iliiiis Iiji'.''' ■I I /" ruUijh.i Miiii li'ijijS. luiCLlell .md f), TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 13- Portuguefe Ships. Names of Places. 3 from Bengal. 6 Macao. 1 GOA. 2 other ports of Asia. 12 from all Asia. 33 Bahia. 26 Maranhaon. 13 Para. 2 Paraiba. I Penaiba. 33 Pernambuco. 16 Rio Janeiro. 1 Santos. 2 Cape Verd. 117 various ports of Europe. 6 Men of War. 252 Total number of Portuguese Ships. Foreign Ships. 75 from AiMERicA. 4 Bermude. 24 Denmark.^ I Geneva. 81 France. 10 Hamburgh. 22 Spain. 64 Holland, including fix Men of War, 6 Triest and Ostend. 5 LUBEC Carried over 292 J34 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Foreign Ships. Names of Places. Brought over 292 7 from the King of Prussia's Dominions. I Russia. 7 Ragusa. z Sweden. 12 Venice, 219 Great Britain and Ireland, including 29 Packets and 4 Men of War. €40 Total number of Foreign Ships. Origin and Progrefs of Lijbon. The origin of Lifbon, like that of many other cities, is involved in obfcurity, though many Writers have at- tempted to develope it, among whom are not a few who do not, perhaps, deferve to be called Antiquaries ; for the true Antiquary, like the Mathematician, will not pro- ceed farther in his inveftigation than he is authorized by the light of conne6ling fafts and concludve reafoning. "Some of the above Writers, however, have had the courage to proceed in the dark as far as the deluge ; but, unfor- tunately, the more they travel, the farther they appear to leave the truth behind. The opinion that moft generally obtains is, that Lifbon was founded by Ulyffes after the deflrudion of Troy, and 3 received TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 135^ received his name *. However that was, there is no doubt but a {luation fo inviting muft have been peopled very early. Its firft inhabitants, according to Pliny, were the ancient Turtuleans, from whom originated the modern Turtuleans of Andalufia, a brave and politic people, as the Celtic and Phoenician tribes experienced in ail their contefts againft them in Spain. Among the other nations that fubdued Lufitania, the Romans are fuppofed to have peopled Lifbon fhortly after they conquered the Cartha- ginians. It appears that Julius Caefar made himfelf mafter of it, and diftinguifhed it by the title of Felicitas Juliana^ as may be colleded from various infcriptions found in that city, which are publifhed in Cunha\ Ecclefiaftical Hiftory of Li{bon. * Lufus, the loved companion of the God, In Spain's fair bofom fixt his laft abode. Our kingdom founded, and illuftrious reign'd, In thofe fair lawns, the bled Elyfium feign'd. Where winding oft the Guadiana roves, And Douro murmurs through the flowery groves. Here with his bones he left his deadilefs fame. And Lufitania's clime fhall ever bear his name. That other chief th' embroider'd Clk difplays. Toft o'er the deep whole years of weary days,, On Tago's banks at laft his vows he paid :. To Wifdom's Godlike power, the Jov«>-bom maid. Who fired his lips with eloquence divine. On Tago's banks he reared the hallowed (hrine : Ul^es he, though fated to deftroy On Afian ground the Heaven-built towers of Troy, On Europe's ftrand, more grateful to the fkies. He bade tit' eternal walls of Lifboa rife. Lu/lad, book viii- About 136 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. About the year of our Lord four hundred and nine, the dominion of the Romans in Lufitania yielded to the in- vafion of the Alans, Suevi, and Vandals ; and thefe again, in their turn, in the year feven hundred and fixteen, fub- mitted to the fuperior power of the Arabians who in- habited Spain. The latter changed the name of the ca- pital, which till then was called Ulifipo^ or Lifpo^ to Lijtboa-j becaufe, fays Caftro, that in the Moorifh alphabet the letter P is not ufed. Hence comes the word Lijboa^ which we tranflate Lifbon. The firft check given to the Arabian power in Portugal ■was by Don Alfonfo the Chafte, King of Galicia and Afturia ; who, with the afUftance of Charlemain, in the year feven hundred and ninety -eight, invaded Portugal and invefted Lifbon. The belieged, after a refolute refiftance, were compelled to yield to the arms of the Chriftian powers. During a period of near three hundred years, the Chriftians and Moors alternately retained a tranfitory poflcilion of it, till at length the latter became tributary to Alfonfo the Sixth of Caftile, in the year one thoufand and ninety-three. In this ftate of fubjedion they continued under Count Henry, the fource of the Portuguefe monarchy, but re- volted again under his fucceflbr Alfonfo Henrique, the firft Chriftian King of Portugal. This Prince made many at- tempts to reduce Lifbon, but in vain. Being one day on the TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 137 the mountain of Centra he difcovered a fleet, confifting of near two hundred fail of Englifh, French, and Fle- mings, under the command of William Long Efpe, mak- ing towards the Tagus. They were deftined for the Holy Land, but had touched here to water, and to repair the damages they received at fea. The King made propofals to them to aid him in capturing the city ; to which they acceded ; and the troops on board, amounting to fourteen thoufand, were drawn up with the Portuguefe forces before the city. During five months the fiege continued with great {laughter on both fides, when the confederate troops, on St. Urfala's Day, made a defperate aflault, and carried the city fword in hand. According to Farria, the number of Infidels flain on this day- amounted to two hundred thoufand. The mod authentic account of that fiege which, per- haps, has yet appeared, is contained in a letter written in the Latin tongue, in one thoufand one hundred and forty- feven, by a perfon of diftinftion named Arnulfo, who was on board the combined fleet, to the Bifliop of Terona in France. It was difcovered among the manufcripts in the library of the Aquitenian Abbots in France, and is pub- liflied in the colledlion of Martene and Durand, torn. i. < Veterum Moftmnentorum^ printed at Paris in the year one thoufand feven hundred and twenty-four. As that letter, perhaps, has not been hitherto pubHflied in our language, we fliall attempt to give a tranflation of it, with the ad- T dition 138 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ditioii of Notes, for the fatisfadlion of the curious in the , mode of attack and defence praclifed in ancient times. ^^ On the Monday after Whitfuntide we entered the bar of the river Douro, and anchored oppolite to Oporto. The Bifhop of this city, as if anticipating the orders of his King, was rejoiced at our arrival. Here we flayed eleven days, waiting for the arrival of Count Ar- noldo de Ardefcot^ and Chrijiian the Co7iJlable^ who had been feparated from us in a ftorm ; during this time we were plentilully fupplied with provision and delicacies oi' all kinds through the munificence of the Prince. " As foon as the Count and the Conftable arrived, we proceeded on our voyage ; in two days we reached the Tagus, on the vigils of the Apoflles St. Peter and St. Paul,, and anchored before Lifbon. This city, which, according to the tradition handed down to us by the Saiacenic Hif- torians, was built by Ulyiles after the deftrudion of Troy, is furrounded with walls of admirable confl:ru6lion, and has feveral towers upon a mountain impregnable to any "human force. " Themoment we landed we began to ere- '^ ^.^ L^ ^- t-' Lay; r. TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 15^ Portuguez. Lida^ e traduzida, pdo Padre Fr. Jodo de Souza, Religiozo da 3'' Ordetn da Penitencia da ProvtJicia de Portugal. Do Nojfo Sober ano Mahey ; Rei dos Rets do Seculo^ Filhoj da Nobre Senhora Rahdn ; Defenfor da Lei Mahometica ; Vencedor dos Taneos ; * Expugnador^ e dejlrmdor dos EbaditaSy -f- no memoravel dia da peleja^ afites do Rei Salib. Herdeiro do Rei Suliman\ Confident e em Decs 'y Pai da P atria, e das Sciencias ; Rei de Madarchah, Foi fundida a ^ do ?nez de Zil Kdde, anno de 939 da Hegira ; que correfponde a 16 Janeiro de 1526; Tranjlation. A copy of an Arabic infcription, which is upon a Can- non brought from Dio, to be feen at the foundry at Lifbon, with a tranflation of the fame in the Portuguefe language; copied and tranflated by Father John de Souza, a Friar of the third Order of Penitentiaries of the Provincialfhip of Portugal. From our Sovereign Mahey ; King of the Kings of the age, fon of the noble Lady Rahan, Defender of the Ma- * Os Taneos, fiio hum Povos, que vlvem SenWs de Ifmael \ os quaes occupavao a MefopO' junto a Etheopia. tamiaa eas mar gens do Rio Eufrate, \ Os EbaditaSf fao certos Povos dejcen- X 2 hommetan 156 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. hommetan Law, Conqueror of the Taneos *, Extermi- ^ iiator and Vanqiiiilier of the Ebaditas f , (on the day of the memorable battle with King Salib,) Heir to King Suli- man, Confident of God, Father of his Country and of the Sciences, King of Madarchah. This Cannon was caft on the 5th day of the month of Zil Kade, in the year 939 of the Hegira, which correfponds with the i6th of January, A. D. 1526. A copy of the infcription B, (Plate VIL) was alfo given to me, without a tranflation, by Father de Souza. The original, he informs me, is upon an ancient fountain near the caftle of the town of Moura. Rofcio» The next fquare of any note in Lifijon is the Rofck ; moft of the houfes are occupied by fhop-keepers. Here the celebrated Inquifition is fituated ; a large empty build- ing, now as filent as the Temple of Janus. Over the pediment, in the centre of the elevation, is a group of figures, reprefenting Religion trampling on a proftrate heretic. * The Taneos are a people who dwell mael j they dwell in Mefopotamia on the near Ethiopia. banks of the Euphrates. •j: The Ebaditas are defcendants of Ifla- In TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 157 In the month of March, one thoufand feven hundred and ninety, I was prefent here when three criminals, found guilty of burglary or affaffination, were led to thefquare to be ex- ecuted, efcorted by five battalions of infantry. The people, unaccuftomed to fcenes of this kind of late years, flocked in numbers to fee the execution, but many of them had to repent their curiofity. One of the foldiers on guard happened to quarrel with a failor in the crowd ; the guards on the oppofite fide, thinking it was an attempt to refcue the criminals, attacked the mob with fixed bayonets, and in a few minutes the former remained maf- ters of the fcene of adlion. Several people were danger- oufly wounded, and others, in the precipitancy of retreat, left fome fragments of their apparel behind. Public Walh and Ajnujements, Contiguous to the Rofcio are the public Walks efia- bliflied by the Marquis de Pombal, who was a great friend to the fair fex, and as fuch, endeavoured to abolifh the reftraint under which they have long been unjuftly kept ; for this purpofe he planned thefe promenades, with a view to introduce a more general intercourfe between both fexes. The walks are elegant, bordered with efpaliers, and the intervals planted with trees and fhrubberies. Yet the inftitution does not appear to have produced that fecial intercourfe to the extent the Marquis had in view. The 1 3 inhabitants 158 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. inhabitants think, however, that the females enjoy more fociety at prefent than at any former period, and that the jealoufy of the men, and the caufes or fufpicions which gave rife to it are diminifhing every day. There are two Theatres here for dramatic performances; on Sundays they are much crowded. I could perceive but few ladies among the audience, and thefe, with few ex- ceptions, fat, not promifcuoufly in the company of the men, as in other theatres, but apart. The mufic was ex- cellent, the dreffes and fcenery tolerable, the ading indif- ferent, or rather bad. Of late years no females are allowed to perform on the ftage ; hence, the men are obliged to afllime the female garb. How provoking it was to fee the tender, the beautiful Ignez de Caftro reprefented by one of thefe brawny artificial wenches, efpecially in that affed:- ing fcene where fhe appears, with her two infant children, at the King*s feet fupplicating for mercy. The fimple re- cital of this affedling paffage, as written by Luis, is fuf- ficient to melt an audience into tears, yet the man-mid- wife who delivered it brought forth no tears, but the tears of the Poet, for the abortion of his piece. Inftead of the delicate faltering accents of the fair vidim, he roared, —— like the ocean when the winds Fight with the waves dying accents fell, as wrecking fliips After the dreadful yell, fink murmuring down, And bubble up a noife. .-^ Lees Oedip. The TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 159 The other adors, particularly thofe who reprefented King Alfonfo and Don Pedro, were not deficient in fen- timent or adion. They poffeffed a good deal of that graceful unconftrained manner we admire in the French adtors. The Circus for the bull-feafls is but a jfhort diftance from the above Theatres. This amufement is declining: very faft in the capital. The performances I witneffed here were inferior to what I faw at Leiria, but not quite fo cruel. And after all, perhaps the manner of tearing the bulls with maftiffs, as in England and other parts of Eu- rope, is not lefs barbarous than the manner of tormenting them in Spain and Portugal ; but we are apt to fee defedls in our neighbours, whilfl: we are blind to our own, like the Lamian Witches, who, according to the facetious Ra- belais, in foreign places had the penetration of a Lynx, but at home they took out their eyes and laid them up in wooden flippers. As we have already given an account of a bull-feaft at Leiria, it is unneceflary to add that of Lifbon, which is almoft fimilar. A fcene of a more novel nature invites our attention ; that is, the manner of catching black cattle in Brazil. I was prefent at the Circus when this curious fpedlacle was exhibited, the firft of the kind, as I was told, ever I reprefented i6o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. reprefcnted in Lifbon. It conveyed a good idea of tlie manner in which the inhabitants of that fertile region catch their cattle. They kill the animals for the fake of the hides, which are brought to Portugal to be manufactured. Of the flefh I underftand the Brazilians make but little account ; they barely take as much as is fufficient for pre- fent exigence, and leave the reft a prey to the birds and beafts of the forefts. The Circus was very crowded on this occasion: about five in the afternoon a native of Pernambuca entered the arena mounted upon a fpirited horfe of the Arabian breed. The rider was of a copper colour, of a ftrong and adlive figrure, his hair black, and his head unco^^ered. He wore a loofe mantle, fomewhat like the paludamentum of the ancient Romans. The fkin of a wild beaft was thrown loofely over the horfe inftead of a faddle, from which were fufpended two cords for ftirrups. The whole appeared quite in character. As foon as the cavalier had paid his obeilance to the audience, a bull, whofe natural ferocity was heightened in the ftall, ruflied in, and had nearly overturned him in the iirft ortfet ; the fleetnefs of his horfe, and the dexte- rity \vith which he managed the reins, only could have favcd his lite. The furious animal purfued him feveral times round the arena >till he became tired, after which he ftood panting in the middle of the ring. Ihe TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. i6i The horfeman ftill continued his circular courfe at an eafy pace, holding a long cord in his hand, with a flip- knot at the end of it : having watched a proper opportu- nity, he caft it over the horns of the bull, and rode twice round him ; then ordering the gate to be thrown open, he made off in full fpced till he came to the full length of the cord ; upon which he received a check, that drew him on his back, and made the horfe caper on his hind feet ; neverthelefs he clung to him by his knees, and in this reclined pofture, held the cord in both hands and the bridle in his mouth. The bull at this time was entangled by the rope, with his head drawn in between his fore-feet, and incapable of motion. The Brazilian difmounted, ap- proached, and drew from beneath his mantle a fliort hunt- ing fpear, which, with an apparent flight force, he darted into the head of the animal, in confequence of which he inftantly fell down and expired. "The Patriarchal Church Is fltuated at the North-eafl: flde of the town, upon an eminence that commands a profped: at once extenflve and beautiful. It would require a volume to defcribe the treafures of facred relics, gold, fllver, precious fliones, and coftly furniture of this venerable edifice. The objeds that moflily attrad the attention of travellers, are the nine great candelabri, and the crofs belonging to the King's chapel ; Y the i63 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. the latter, which is of filver and gilt, is upwards of twelve feet high, and of exquifite workmanfhip. Nor is the workmanfhip of the candelabri lefs deferving of notice ; they exhibit a variety of groupes in demi-relief, reprefent- ing the myfteries of Chrift and of the Virgin Mary ; in other parts of them v/e behold emblems chara6teriftic of the kingdom, and of its former conquefts and difcoveries. Thefe are alfo formed of fiiver, gilt, and adorned with feftoons : the fnaces between the groupes are inlaid with lapis lazuli, and fpangkd with diamonds and other pre- cious ftones. Antonio Arrighi (an Italian) was the defigner of the above crofs and candelabri ; they were executed partly at Rome and partly at Florence, in the year one thoufand feven hundred and thirty-two, and were greatly admired by the amateurs of the fine arts in both thofe cities. The value of the whole is very great, as may be readily con- ceived, when the workmanfliip alone is faid to have coft the fum of three hundred thoufand crufados^ or thirty-three thoufand feven hundred and fifty pounds fterling. The greater part of the charge of the above, and the other embellifhments of this Church, was defrayed out of the furplus of the revenue after paying the ordinary ex- pences of the eftablifhment ; which revenue, in the year one thoufand feven hundred and forty-feven, flood as fol- lows, according to Father dc Caftro, An TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 163 An Account of the eJlahUp^ed A7inual Revenue of the Patriarchal Church. Ancient endowment Tributes of Bifhoprics and benefices Rents of churches, houfes and reclaimed lands Forfeitures and purchafes Total Reis. 30,005,560 94,982,512 31,474,717 250,843,880 407,306,669 An Account of the ordinary Annual Difburfefnents of the Patriarchal Church. 5 Principal Dignitaries I Dean _ _ - 18 Secondary Dignitaries 72 Prelates 20 Canons 12 Beneficaries 32 Second Beneficaries 32 Inferior Beneficaries 5 Matters of Ceremonies 7 Acolothifts 29 Chaplains 2 Treafurers 1 Depofitories of the Sacrifty I Depofitory of the wax ftore jjo Sacrifts Y 2 Reis. 23,766,000 4»853>2oo 83,757,600 .- - 115,200,000 " - 20, 000, coo 8,400,000 16,000,000 8,000,000 520,000 350,000 4,560,000 . - - 180,000 220,000 140,000 1,488,000 Carried over 287,434,800 164 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Reir. Brought forward 287,434,800 17 Chaplains who celebrate mais in the ancient Royal Chapels _ _ _ 769,040 71 Italian and Portuguefe Chorifters 30,672,800 4 Organifts - - - - 520,000 1 Italian Compofer - - - 180,000 I Door-keeper . « - - 120,000 6 Wardens - - - - 320,000 12 Provedores - _ - - 360,000 4 Meflengers _ - _ - 80,000 6 Sweepers - - - - 267,840 2 Torch-bearers - - _ - 148,800 I Goldfmith _ - - - 640,000 2 Upholfterers - - - - 412,800 I Hair-drefler _ - - _ 9,480 2 Bell-ringers with their afliftants 400,000 I Modulator of the organs - - - 20,000 A Writer, an Illuminator, and an Engraver 600,000 12 Confeflbrs - _ 600,000 4 Preachers _ - _ _ 94,000 Wax 6,200,000 For painting the wax _ - _ 210,800 Proceffions, feats, and cleaning the Church 2,000,000 Cleaning and repairing the filver utenfils 250,000 Wafhing and making up the furniture 392,000 Repairing the linen _ - - 120,000 Oil for forty-five lamps _ _ _ 500,000 Wine ufed in the celebration of the mafTes 150,000 Hofts . _ - - . 24,000 Incenfe _ - - - 24,000 Charcoal _ » - - 20,000 Palm - - . _ _ 600,000 Calendars 48,000 Carried over 334>iS8,36o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. i(Jr Rels. Brought forward 334,188,360 St. Antony's offerings - - - 70,000 Green and red cloths - - « go 000 Hanging the Church on feftival days - 236,000 School - - - -. , 1,800,000 Contingencies - • . - 800,000 Total 337,154,360 The aggregate of the above fums when reduced to pounds fterling will ftand thus : Reis. £. s. d. Total Annual Revenue 407,306,669 = 114,554 : 18 : 6 Total Annual Difburfements 2)2i7->^S^i2>^'^ ^^ 94>824 : 11 : 6 70,152,309 = £. 19,730 : y : o Hence there appears a balance of nineteen thoufand feven hundred and thirty pounds and feven fhillings re- maining in the funds for repairs, furniture, utenfils, and other contingencies. We do not include in the above eftimates the eftabliih- ment of the Patriarch, which is very confiderable on ac- count of his great dignity. His Eminence takes precedence of all the Bifhops and Archbilhops of the kingdom, is Firft Chaplain to the King, and a Cardinal of the Con- fillory at Rome. The principal revenue of liis facred office arifes from the tribute of the general mines j he has 6 alfo i66 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. alfo a large endowment in church lands, and five thou- fand fix hundred and twenty-five pounds fterling a-year out of the Royal Treafiiry. At the loweft computation we may ftate the whole at thirty thoufand pounds pet^ an- num. Then the total amount of the eftablifiiment of the Patriarchal Church will be 144,554/. i8j. bd. Lioretto. The Loretto Church, built by the Pope's Nuncio a ^^w years ago, is held in high eftimation for its architedlure ; but its admirers muft fee excellencies in it that I could not perceive j and I am inclined to fufped that any reputation it has obtained in that refpedl is owing, not to its intrinfic merit, but from its being defigned in Italy. In the days of Palladio this would have been a ftrong recommendation j we cannot, however, allow that privilege to the Italians of the prefent age, whofe tafte in architecture is funk as low as that of moft other nations of Europe, by the Bor- romini, the Bibi.na, and their difciples, the modern Van- dals of that degenerated nation. J^ervehfs hijloth^ enfeebling arts thy boajl. Oh! Italy, hoiv fallen, how low, how lojl l Camoens. There are feveral labourers employed in finking the mountain jufi by this Church, for the purpofe of building dwelling-houfes ; and it is curious to obfcrve, that as far as they have hitherto funk, which in fome parts is about thirty TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 167 thirty feet, they found nothing but a reddijfh clay, or fand,, mixed with ftrata of petrified fhells, chiefly of the crufta- ceous kind. Several hundred cart-loads of thefe fhells have been cleared away from this fpot ; the height of which above the fea apparently is not lefs than three hundred and fifty feet. As we are in the neighbourhood of the Francifcan Church, we cannot help noticing the infcriptional ftone placed in the North-eaft angle of it. There is another, of a fimilar nature, in the front of the Carmo Church. We fhall not annex their fublime contents ; for the ho- nour of our holy religion we wifli they were taken down ; or if that be contrary to the prefcriptions or laws of thefe Churches, perhaps there is no law in force againfl: turning them i'lfide out.. Church of St. Roque, This Church formerly belonged to the Jefuits. There is nothing in the architedlure very remarkable for excel- lence of defign or execution, though indeed it may be juftly confidered a very neat Church. The walls and ceiling exhibit feme good pictures in frefco. But what is moft deferving of attention is a fmall Chapel dedicated to St. John the Baptift, the moft valuable of its fize, per- haps, in Europe. Among the materials with which it is decorated, we obferve lapis lazuli. Oriental granite, por~ II ' phjry* i63 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. phyiy, amethyft, alabafter, verde antique, coralline, fciena and carara marbles. There are alfo three beautiful pidures in it, executed in mofaick in a maflerly manner ; one is placed in a deuxtyle over the altar, reprefenting the Baptifm of our Saviour ; the other two, namely, the Annunciation and the Defeent of the Holy Ghoft, are placed one at each fide of the altar] The floor is likewife of mofaick, embelliflied with borders of treillage, and an armillary fphere in the centre. The columns and dado of the altar are of lapis lazuli ; the table of the latter is fupported at the angles by cherubs of (ilver, and accompanied by two lofty can- delabri of the fame metal. The fhafts of the columns are formed into ftria^ by fillets of gold. According to thofe who rate the expence of thefe pre- cious appendages at the lovveft, they coft two millions of crufados, or two hundred and twenty-five thoufand pounds fterling. They were executed at Rome by the mofl emi- nent artifls of- that city, at the defire of King John the Fifth, who prefented them to the Jefuits of St. Roque, in the year one thoufand feven hundred and fifty-one. Every admirer of the fine arts muft regret to find fuch admirable productions fqueezed into an obfcure chapel or cell, not more than feventeen feet long by twelve broad, at the fide of the church. JVew TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 169 New Church. The New Church, built by her prefent Majefty, is the largeft and moft magnificent edifice raifed in Lilbon fince the fatal earthquake. It is faid to have coft five millions of crufados ; that is, five hundred and fixty-tu^o thoufand five hundred pounds fterling. The plan is in the form of a crofs, and runs nearly Eaft and Weft : indeed the Portugueie, in founding their Churches, are not very par- ticular in this refped:. They generally adapt the afped: to the fituation, a cuftom worthy of our imitation ; as that great Being, in honour of whom they are raifed, is equally prefent at the North and the South, at the Eaft and the Weft. The centre is crowned with a magnificent dome of hewn ftone rifing over the quadrangle at the interfedion of the nave and tranfept, which is gradually formed into a circle by pendentives fpringing from the angles of the piers. In point of execution this dome has great merit ; and no wonder; for where ftiall we meet with fuch excel- lent ftone-cutters as in Portugal ? Perhaps not in Europe. Truth will not allow us, however, to fay as much for its architcds. In the whole Church, indeed, as far as relates to thefe artifans, there is nothing to cenfure, and but very little z to i-jo TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. TO praife that relates to the architedl. We fhall take no notice of the towers, nor of the ball that crowns the cupola; a little knowledge of optics or perfpedive might have re- medied what is amifs in both : but in the diftribution of the compofite tetraftyle, the arcade and the logia of the Eaft front, nothing more was required to make them as they ought to be, than a moderate knowledge of the rules of architecture. The columns of the former, inftead of fup- porting the fuperftrudlure, fuftain but a diminifhed enta- blature, and even this is intermitted ; hence, the columns are of no real or appaxent ufe whatever. An Athenian would imagine they were expofed there for fale ; and the Italian who, not long Unce, prompted by an itch for paf- quinading, pofted the following couplet on one of the columns of a great manfion in the neighbourhood of Saint James's in London, might apply it, with equal proprietyj to the above columns : Care Colonne, che fatte la f Non lojappiamo in verita ! Tell me, dear Columns, why do you ftand fo ^ Indeed, Mr. Pafquin, we really don't know ! Cemetery of the Britijh FaSiory. The Cemetery, or Burying-ground, belonging to the Britifli Fadory, is lituated at the North-weft fide of the city, and is the only expofed Burying-ground in Lifbon. The TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 171 The natives, and all others of the Catholic communion who die here, are interred in the cryptical tombs of the churches. When the corpfe is repofited, it is ftrewed with lime, to diffolve it the more fpcedily, and to prevent .any unpleafant fmell. The difeafed, according to law, muft not remain diiin- terred more than four-and-twenty hours ; a very falutary regulation, called for by the heat of the climate ; for, admitting it were pofTible that one in a thoufand might be brought to life by continuing unburied, as with us, for the fpace of five or fix days, it is more than probable, that thoufands would fall a facrifice to the experiment. This Birrying-ground was afligned to the Englifli about the year one thoufand fix hundred and fifty-five, agreeably to the fourteenth article of the Treaty of Alliance con- cluded between England and Portugal in the time of Oliver Cromwell. The fame article alfo includes the reftridlions to which the Englifh are fubjeft with regard to the exercife of their religion. Here is a copy of it : " And forafmuch as the rights of peace and commerce *' would be null and ufelefs, if the people of the Republic " of England fhould be difturbed for confcience-fake, *' when they pafs to and from the kingdoms and domi- " nions of the faid King of Portugal, or refide there for *' the fake of exchanging their merchandize. That com- z 2 " merce (( (C 172 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. " merce may, therefore, be free and fecure both by land " and fea, the faid King of Portugal fhall take effedtual " care, and provide, that they be not molefted by any " perfon, • court, or tribunal, upon account of the faid " confcience, or for having with them, or uling, any " Englifh Bibles or other books ; and that it fhall be free " for the people of the Republic to obferve and profefs *' their own religion in private houfes, together with their " families, within any of the dominions of the faid King " of Portugal whatfoever J and the fame to exercife on " board their fhips and vefTels as they fhall think iit, without any trouble or hindrance ; and finally, that a place be affigned for the burial of their dead. But " withal, the Englifh are cautioned not to exceed what is " written in this article." Among the remains of the Britifli fubje<9:s interred in the above Cemetery, are thofe of the celebrated Henry Fielding ; but, I regret to fay, without a monument, or any other obfequious mark of diftind:ion, fuitable to his great talents and virtues. In the year one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-fix, the Chev. de St. Mark de Meyrionet, the French Conful, who then refided at Liibon, had a fmall monument made for that purpofe at his own expence, which remains to this day in the cloifter of the Francifcan convent. Why it has not been admitted into the Burying-ground I could not TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 173 not learn ; but thofe who have excluded it were certainly juftified for more reafons than one. In the firft place, as a monument, it is a very contemptible defign. Se- condly, the epitaph is unappropriate and unpoetical. And, thirdly, it appears to be made rather from vanity than gratitude ; rather with a view to confer honour on himfelf and his country, than to perpetuate the me- mory of Henry Fielding. This appears evident from the laft line of* the epitaph ; of which we here annex a copy. Erige en 1786, a Henry Field'mg mort e?n 1754. Sous ces cypres charn'iers, parmi ces os muets, Tu cherches de Fielding les reftes memorables; De la mort et du temps deplore les effets, Ou detefte plutot I'oubli de fes femblables. lis elevent par-tout des marbres faftueux, Un bloc reconnoifTant ici manque a tes voeux, Et ton pas incertain craint de fouler la cendre, Sur laquelle tes pleurs cherchent a fe repandre. Vieillard, qui detruis tout dans un profond filence, Ne diiTous point ce marbre a Fielding confacre ! Qu'aux fiecles a venir il arrive facre, Pour I'honneur de mon nom et celui de la France ! The 174 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. The following lines were written by way of Epitaph to Henry Fielding, by Mr. Smart. The mafter of the Greek and Roman page, The lively fcorner of a venal age, Who made the public laugh at public vice. Or drew from fparkling eyes the pearl of price ; Student of Nature, reader of mankind, In whom the poet and the patron join'd. As free to give applaufes as aflert, And fkilful in the practice of defert. Hence power confign'd the laws to thy command. And put the fcales of juftice in thine hand, To ftand protector of the orphan race, And fmd the female penitent a place. From toils like thefe, too great for eye to bear, From pain, from ficknefs, and a world of care. From children and a widow in her bloom. From fhores remote, and from a foreign tomb ; Call'd by the Word of Life, thou flialt appear To pleafe and profit in a higher fphere, Where endlefs hope, unperifhable gain. Are what the Scriptures teach and entertain. Royal Monaftery of Belem. On the banks of the Tagus, about five miles South- weft of Lifbon, is fituated the magnificent Church and Mona- ftery of Belem, founded by King Emanuel, in the year one thoufand four hundred and ninety-nine, and completed <- by TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. i-- /J by his fon and fucceffor, John the Third, for the Friars of the Order of Si. yeronymo. Over the portal of the Mo- nailery we obferve the following infcription, or diftich, faid to have been written by the celebrated Andre de Rejende : Vasta mole sacrum Divin-e in LiTORE Matrt Rex posuit Regum Maximus Emmanuel. AuxiT OPUS H^REs Regini, et pietatis uterque Structura certant, religione pares. Providence fortunately laved this beautiful ftrudlure from the deftruiflive effedls of the memorable earthquake of one thoufand feven hundred and fifty-five, except the great arch of the tranfept, which received a fhock in that difafter ; in confequence of which it fell the enfuing year. The Chevalier Frezier makes refpeftful mention of the vaulting of this church, than whom, I know but very few" writers more competent to judge of thefe matters. On pent re?na7-quer dans les anciennes Egltfes ^ Clot' ires Gothiques, une variete admirable de compartimeris ; ce que fai vu de plus beau ^ de mteux execute dans ce ge?trej eji au Monajlere de Bethlehem^ aupres de LiJbo?me en Portugal, tant a V Eglije qu an Cloitre, oti, la plupart des nervures font de Marbre. We may obferve in the ancient Gothic churches and cloiflers an admirable variety of compartments ; the moft beautiful 175 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. beautiful and beft executed of the kind that I have feen, are in the Monaftery of Belem, near Lifbon in Portugal, as well with regard to the church as the cloifter, where moft of the ribs are of marble. Traite de Stereotomie^ iom.m, p. 28. Here are interred many oi the Royal families of Portu- gal, and other perfonages of diftindion, as may be col- ledVed from the infcriptions ol their monuments. The whole is executed in a fpecies of architecture compounded of the Norman- Gothic, and Arabian ftyles. The cloifter adjoining to the church exhibits fome excellent fpecimens of Arabefque ornaments ; they are defigned with a good deal of tafte and fancy, and executed with care. The founder of this noble fabric, eredled in the river oppoUte to the church a fbrong tower, with two batteries and feveral pieces of cannon, to defend both the Monaftery and the entrance to the capital. Jofeph the Firft alfo built an excellent quay with wharfs near the fame place. Bom-fuccejfo. This Monaftery was founded in the year one thoufand fix hundred and twenty-fix, for the Nuns of the Order of St. Jeronymo ; but, through the munificence of Queen Louiza de Gufman, it was afterwards fet apart for females, natives of Ireland, who entered into holy orders. It is dedicated TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 177 dedicated to St. Dominick, and under the controul of the Abbot-general of that Order, or his depute, the Redor of the Iriili Dominican Convent at Lifbon. It maintains two Chaplains, who are alfo of the fame Order, and na- tives of Ireland. The Irijh CoJtvent, The Irifli Convent, or College of the Dominican Order, was founded in the year one thoufand fix hundred and fifty-nine, by Queen Luiza de Gufman, who inftituted the Irifh nunnery above mentioned. That Convent was entirely deflroyed by the earthquake of one thoufand feven hundred and fifty-five. It is recorded that one of the Fathers, animated by a pious zeal to preferve the facred pax, ruflied into the midft of the ruins during the violence of the earthquake, brought it forth, and walked with it in procefiion to the church of St. Ifabel, attended by a vaft concourfe of people, imploring the Divine mercy. After feveral years had elapfed, the Fathers were en- abled to rebuild their little feminary and church, through the munificence of the humane. Some refpedtable Catholic families in Ireland gave donations for that purpofe ; but the greater part of the expence was defrayed by the bene- volent people of Portugal. A A The 178 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. The inhabitants of the Convent, at prefent, are about eighteen, exclufive of fervants ; they live chiefly on vo- luntary contributions. The ftudents are remarkably docile and fober; even the Portuguefe, whofe career from youth to age is rarely chequered with fallies of intemperance, hold them as models of imitation to the probationers of their monafleries. King Jofeph the Firft had a particular efteem for thefe Fathers, though he once made a witty remark on them. One evening he obferved, from the balcony of his palace, four or five of them crofTmg the Tagus in a ferry- boat, in which there were fome females. *' Your Ma- " jefty's Irilli Friars," faid one of the Lords in waiting, ** are fond pf mixing with the Ladies." / am not afraid of their making love to them, replied the King, I would fooner trufl them with ?ny wife than the key of my cellar. Perhaps there is not in the code of Irifh profcriptlons a law that more clearly manifefts the wretched policy of that country, than that which relates to the exclufion of Roman Catholic feminaries of education. You accufe their paftors with illiterature, whilft you adopt the mofb cruel means of making tKem ignorant ; and their peafantry with unrradablenefs, whilfl you deprive them of the means of civilization. But that is not all; you have de- prived them at once of their religion, their liberty, their oak, and their harp, and left them to deplore their fate, not in the ftrains of their anceftors, but in the fighs of oppreffion. TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ,79 oppreflion. I would wifh to draw a veil over thefe griev- ances, which, thank God, are diminifliing every day, as the beams of more enlightened legiflature begins to dawn on that long-negleded ifle. Lijbon AqueduSl. This Aquedud may be juftly confidered one of the moft magnificent monuments of modern conftruflion in Europe ; and in point of magnitude, is not inferior, per- haps, to any Aquedu6l the ancients have left us. That part of it which is fituated in the valley of Alcantara, about a mile from Lifbon, is an admirable ftrudure ; con- iifting of thirty-five arches, by which the water is con- veyed over a deep vale, formed by two oppofite mountains. The dimenfions of it, in the mofl deprefied part of the vale, are as follow : Feet. Inches. Height of the arch from the ground to the Intrados - 230 10 From the vertex of the arch to the extrados, exclufive of the parapet - - - - 98 From the extrados to the top of the ventilator - 234 Total height from the ground to the fummit of the ventilator - - - 263 10 Breadth of the principal arch - - 107 8 Breadth of the piers of the principal arch - - 280 Thicknefs of the piers in general - - - 23 8 The arches on each fide of the principal one diminifh in breadth, as the piers whereon they reft decreafe in A A 2 height i8o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. heicrht with the declivity of the hills. In examining the refpedtive dimenfions of the feveral arches, I find they do not reciprocally diminifli in geometrical progreilion ; in- deed it is obvious to the eye, a very great obftruftion to the beauty of the perfpedlive. The reader who is not ac- quainted with that ufeful problem, will find it fufficiently illuftrated in Traite de Stereoto?nie., by the Chev. Frezier^ torn. ii. p. 120. pi. XXXV. It would alfo contribute to the beauty of the ftrudlure^ if all the arches were curves of the fame fpecies ; inftead of which there are fourteen of them Gothic, or pointed arches in a range ; the reft are (emicircular. The architeft feems to have been apprehenfive that the principal arches, if made femicircular, would become very expenfive, on account of their requiring a higher extrados than pointed arches to keep them in equilibrium ; fince there is no arch, except the catenaria, that will fupport itfelf without an. incumbent weight proportionable to the fubtenfe. In the reft of the Aquedu6l there is much judgment, difplayed. No part of it has failed, or appears to have received the leaft injury from the great earthquake ; a proof of the excellence of the contignation. Over the arches there runs a vaulted corridor, nine feet fix inches high, by five feet broad, internally. A con- tinued pafliige runs through the centre of it, for the 3 people TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ^g^I. people who conftantly attend to keep it in order, and a femicircular channel, or conduit, of thirteen inches dia- meter at each fide through which the water is conveyed. It is worthy of remark, that thefe channels are laid, not in an inclined diredlion, as in other Aqueduds, but ho- rizontally; to compenfate for this, a fmall depreffion is made at certain intervals, by which the water is impelled- along the horizontal line ; a manner fuppofed to require lefs declenfion in conveying water than a continued in- clined line. There are two thoroughfares for foot-paf- fengers along the Aquedudt ; that is, one at each fide of the corridor, which is five feet wide, and defended by a ftone parapet. From the remains of fome ancient walls which were found here, it is fuppofed that the Romans who inhabited Lufi- tania attempted to build an AquedunssNa)! DEBIT., Ml [PEYM'^^Mfitr . MATJtl" BE . AIPHR'Y G,FI PI21RPERNLIM ~^SS -FE-C^ S -SE^' E Li- CAECILTO, i.T.CEiEM-EEcFc QVAEST. FK0^1>X\ BAET . TlilB, PEEB . PRAETOR! . FEE.IVE.OLISIFO fUblUtid- Jiay ifi 7ff!> by Ccuiea JkrUa^ie^ StranA L anJ^n.. TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 185 Here is a foundling hofpital, properly named the Mifericordia ; on the outfide of it is a cradle where the infant is laid, of which notice is given by the ringing of a bell. Thefe foundlings, as they advance in years, are carefully inftruded in the principles of religion and mo- rality ; at a proper age male children are apprenticed to refpedlable tradefmen, and the girls put to fervice. In the year one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-nine the number of children received into this Hofpital amounted to one thoufand two hundred and feventy-nine. Of thefe there died - - - 405 Claimed by their fathers - - ^ 4 Given out to nurfe - - "853 Reared in the Hofpital - - - 17 The Royal Hofpital of St. Jofeph receives the infirm of both fexes of every nation ; it is very well attended by phyficians and nurfes ; the patients are comfortably lodged, and in every refpeft well treated. In the year one thou- fand feven hundred and eighty-nine, the number of pa- tients received into this Hofpital amounted to 11,020 Remained in it fince the foregoing year - 778 Total 11,798 Of the above number there died in the fame year 1,308 Difcharged as cured - - - -9,688 Remained under cure - - - - 802 1 B Befides iS6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Belides the above charitable inftitutions, there are fo- cieties here called the Brotherhood of the Mifericordia who are conftantly performing a6ls of charity. Thefe venerable focieties 'proted: and comfort the diftreffed of every religion, fe6l, or country, within the limits of their obfervation. They are not content to await the folicita- tion of the afflidled, but feek them out in their wretched habitations, and adminifter to their wants. They take orphans and poor children of indigent parents under their protection, and rear them till they arrive at a proper age to be fent as apprentices; then they put them under the care of refpedable tradefmen, and do not with- draw their guardianfhip till they are eftablifhed in their rcfpedlive trades, unlefs they forfeit it by ill behaviour. The females who are reared by them in a fimilar manner muft be very circumfpecl in their condud ; when their charadlers are irreproachable, induftrious tradefmen make choice of them for their wives, as well for the fake of the dowry to which they are entitled, as to gain the patronage of the brotherhood. Thefe humane focieties vifit the gaols and hofpitals, and fend provifions to the different prifoners who have neither money nor friends to fupport them, and fuch of them as are detained for the gaoler's fees, after being acquitted, are liberated through their humane bounty. Wlien a delin- quent is condemned to die, they vifit him conftantly, they confole him and accompany him to the place of execution, exhorting TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 1S7 exhorting him to repentance. Their humanity does not reft here; it extends to the grav^e, and even beyond the grave ; for the remains of the vidim are interred with decency, and a number of maffes offered up for his foul. They perform iimilar offices for every perfon who dies in indigent circumftances. Indeed it would be almoft im- poflible to enumerate all the beneficent ads of the venera- ble Brotherhood of the Mifericordia, ads founded on the pureft principles of humanity and religion, without the lead alloy of ofhentation or hypocrify. Oh merciful friends of the human fpecies, how great the reward that awaits you when fummoned before the great Tribunal of Mercy ! Nor is Lilbon the only place where thefe pious inftitutions are eftablifhed ; they extend to every city and town in the kingdom, and every part fubjed to the crown of Portugal. We fincerely wifh they extended every where, and were limited only by the limits of the globe. Obfervattofts on the Laws of Portugal . The King in perfon is fuppofed to prefide in all crimi- nal courts of judicature, and the Judges, who derive their authority immediately from him, may pronounce fentence of death on delinquents tried and found guilty ; but exe- cution is exprefsly forbidden till the expiration of twenty days after faid fentence, in order that the criminal may have an opportunity of reviewing his trial, and protefting againft fuch points in it as do not exadly bear upon the B B 2 offence. i88 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL^ offence. This law was firft promulged by Alfonfo the Second at Coimbra, in the year one thoufand two hundred and eleven. Several prifoners, purfuant to this decree, have protraded their lives for many years. A ftriking inftance of this ap- peared during the adminiftration of the Marquis de Pombal ;. this Minifter ordered a return to be made of all the pri- foners in the kingdom, with the nature of their alleged crimes, and duration of confinement. The abufes pradiifed by the officers of the prifons gave rife to the inquiry, for it was cuftomary with the gaolers to liberate the prifoners on their parole on receiving a proportionate gratuity. Among the number thus enlarged, there happened one on whom fentence of death had been pafTed feven years anterior to the above order ; during which interval he lived in the country, and earned his bread very honeftly. The gaoler now fummoned him to appear, he inftantly obeyed, re- entered the condemned cell, and was ordered for execu- tion ; but on a reprefentation of his conduct being made to the King, he was pardoned in confideration of his pundtual regard to his promife, and the blamelefs cha- rafter he maintained in the neighbourhood wherein he worked. There is one great defect in the adminiftration of the criminal law, which calls loudly for rediefs. Prifoners committed TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 189 committed on alleged crimes, are fuffered to remain many- years in prifon before they are brought to trial. If in the interval an innocent man fliould die, he finks into the grave with all the accumulated infamy of a delinquent. During the reign of John the Second and of his fuc- cefTor Emanuel, criminals, inftead of being put to death, were employed in the Portuguefe fleets that viflted Africa or Afia, and fent upon hazardous expeditions in the newly difcovered countries. If they fucceeded in the ob- jed of their enterprife, their crimes were expiated for the fervice they rendered to the ftatej and it was not unufual to find men of this delcription, after a few years, reformed in mind and manners, and become ufeful members of fociety. The punifhment of tranfporting criminals to foreign fettlements alfo originated with the Portuguefe, a mode of punifhment, perhaps of all others, attended with the moft falutary confequences to the criminal and the community. The Clergy, X am informed, are not confined for of- fences in the common prifons, there is one called the Al- jube fet apart for them ; this prifon is fituate near the pa- triarchal church, and under the jurifdidiion of the Patriarch. Formerly the Clergy could only be arraigned by the canon law; but this privilege has been lately fet afide; they are now amenable to the civil law, an ordinance which gives great fatisfadion to the kingdom at large. 1 3 There 190 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. There is a prifoii at the South end of the city, on the vero"e of the Tagus, which at prefent is unoccupied. During the adminiftration of the potent minifter it was much crowded, particularly when the edid was iirft iffued for the expullion of the Jefuits. This prifon may be conildered as the Baftile of Portu- gal ; the ftrength of its walls, gratings and cells, ftrike the fpedator with horror ; and what renders it ftill more terrific, is a contiguous rope-walk, in which many an unhappy prifoner imagined he faw his deftiny fpun. I m prifon men t for debt was aboliflied by an edid: in one thoufand feven hundred and feventy-four ; in its ftead the law has prefcribed a more equitable mode to fatisfy the rcafonable demands of the creditor. The Englifli fubjeds who refide here are exempted, in fome degree, from the eftablifhed laws of the country, as fpecified in the following articles of the Treaty of one thoufand fix hundred and fifty-four : AcTiCLE VII. — " For the judging of all caufcs relatinf *' to the people of this Republic, a Judge Confervator " fliall be deputed, from whom no manner of appeal fliall *' be granted, except to the Senate of Rellaqaoit^ where the *' jaw-fuits commenced, and appealed to that court fliall *' be determined within the fpace of four months." 4 Article TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. J91 Article VIII. " That if any of the people of this *' Republic fhall die within the kingdoms and dominions of *' the moft Serene King of Portugal, the books, accounts, " goods, and aflets belonging to them, or to others of the *' people of this Repulic, fhall not be feized nor pofiefled *' by the judges of the orphans and perfons abfent, or by *' their minlfters and officers ; nor fhall they be liable to *' their jurifdiaion ; but the fame goods, merchandize, *' and accounts fhall be delivered to the Englifh fadors or " procurators reading in that place, who are nominated " or deputed by the deceafed : but if the defundl, whilft ** living, did not nominate any, then the faid goods, mer- ** chandize, and accounts fhall, by the authority of the " Judge Confervator, be delivered to two or more Englifh' " merchants refiding in the place, and approved of by " the Englifh Conful, after having given fecurity, by un- " exceptionable bondfmen, (who fhall alfo be approved " by the fame Englifh Conful,) for refloring the faid goods, ♦' merchandize, and accounts to the right owners, or to " their true creditors ; and the goods which fhall appear " to have been the deceafed' s, fhall be delivered to his " heirs, executors, or creditors." Article XIII. " That none who are commonly " called Alcaydes, (/. s. Bailiffs,) or any other officers of " his Royal Majefty, fhall feize or arreft any of the people " of this Republic, of what rank or condition foever, " except 192 TRAVELS IN PORTQGAL. " exxept in a criminal caufe, being detefted in any fla- " errant fact, unlefs he be firft impowered in writing by " the Judge Confervator ; and that the aforefaid people, " in all other refpects, as to their perfons, domeftics, and " dwellings, books of accounts, interefts, merchandize, " and all other goods belonging to them, fhall enjoy " equal and the fame immunity within the dominions of " the moft Serene King of Portugal, from imprifonment, " arrefts, and other moleftations whatfoever, as already is, " or fhall hereafter be granted to any other Prince or people " whatfoever in alliance with the King of Portugal ; nor " fhall they be hindered by any permit or protedion, to " be granted by the faid King to his fubjecls, or others " frequenting his dominions, from recovering their debts ; *' but they fhall have a right to fue any man to juftice for " the recovery of any juft debt, although he be fheltered " under the patronage or protection of any perfon what- " foever, or fecured by any Alvara, or written law, or *' whether he be a farmer of the revenues, or invefted with " any other privilege." Whether fome claufes of the above articles have not been modified during the adminiftration of the Marquis de Pombal, I am not very certain; but the greateft part, if not the whole of them, ftill continue in iorce. Methue?i RAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 193 Methuen Treaty » The laft Treaty of Commerce concluded between Portugal and England was in the reign of Queen Anne. This is commonly called the Methuejt Treaty, on account of its being ratified on the part of Great Britain by John Methuen Efquire. As it is very fhort, w^e fhall give a copy of it. A Treaty of Commerce betwixt the 7noJl Serene Lady Anne^ ^ueen of Great Britai/ty aiid the mof Serene Lord Don Peter, Ki?ig of Portugal and of the Al- garvesy &c. agreed upon and concluded in Lifbon, the 2']th of December 1703. Article I. " His Sacred Royal Majefty of Portugal *' promifes, both in his own name and that of his fuc- *' cefTors, to admit for ever hereafter into Portugal the *' woollen cloths, and the reft of the woollen manufac- " tures of the Britons, as was accuftomed till they were ** prohibited by the laws. Neverthelefs, upon this con- *' dition ; that is to fay, Article IL " That her Sacred Royal Majefty of " Great Britain fhall, in her own name and that of her " fuccelTors, be obliged for ever hereafter to admit the c c " wines 194- TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. *' wines of the growth of Portugal into Britain ; fo that *' at no time, whether there fhall be peace or war between " the kingdoms of Britain and France, any thing more " fhall be demanded for thefe wines by the name ol cuf- " torn or duty, or by any other title whatfoever, diredly '' or indiredlly, (whether they fliall be imported into Great *' Britain in pipes or hogfheads, or other cafks) than what " fhall be demanded ior the like quantity or meafure " of French wine, deducing or abating one half of the " cuftom or duty. But if at any time this dedudlion or " abatement of cuftoms, which is to be made as afore- " faid, fhall in any manner be attempted and prejudiced, " it fhall be jufl and lawful for his Sacred Royal Majefty " of Portugal again to prohibit the woollen cloths, and " the reft of the Britifh woollen manufadtures. " Given at Lifbon, the 27th of the month cf " December 1703. " Joh7i Methuen, L. S." As the trade of England with Portugal is well known, we fhall not recapitulate it here : but as that of Ireland with Portugal is not generally known, fome account of the fame may not be uninterefting. A gentleman refiding in Lifbon, who has good information in thefe matters, favoured me with the following paper, which I believe has not been hitherto publifhed :. I Trade TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 195 Trade of Portugal ivith Irelajid^ from March 1781 till March 1782. Exports. Valae. £' X. d. Cork - 2,458 I lot Drugs « 45 1 97 7 10 Dying Stuff - 2,152 5 2 Almonds - 599 12 lit Figs - - - - 650 14 lO Raifins - i»997 lO 2 Suceces Liquoritia - 2>^S 16 8 Oranges and Lemons - 2,893 18 9 Oil - - 3,490 19 2 Pot Afhes * - - 5,687 10 Salt - 23,656 5 4 Raw Silk - 621 6 8 Thrown Silk, undyed - 792 10 Brandy - 4,605 18 Vinegar . - - 459 3 9 Wine - 43,821 lO Small Articles — - 1,146 II X- 99,557 2 2 * What is here called Pot Afties, is in gave it that name on account of the war. reality Barilla from Spain -, probably they The wine alfo is partly Spaniflj. c c 2 Imports. 19S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Imports. Beef Butter Candles Cheefe Fifh Tanned Hides * Linen Cloth Pork Small Articles Value. £. s. S 27 o^ oi. 15 34 27 21 76 1783, medium 27! T 1784, 33! CPoIegadas, or Inches — it ought to be, as Is 1785, 32^3 fuppofed, only 23 Polegadas. State of the Thermometer, medium heat fuppofed to be ^'^. 1783 — medium heat for the year, about ^^. Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May. June. July. Aug. Sept. O^. Nov. Dec. 1784—54 SS 57 57 67 70 73 73 71 60 54 51 the medium therefore is (ii^ notwithftanding the thermometer on June 15 was at 97, on July 16 at 99, on Auguft 13, for two hours, at 106, and the day after at 103, on Decem- ber 4. it was at 30°. 17S5 — the mean heat was 62 1, the thermometer never rofe higher than 94, exprefled by decimals, the mean monthly heat was Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May. June. July. Aug. Sept. 061. Nov. Dec. 539 522 562 620 655 710 745 704 696 639 545 522 State TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 221 State of the Barometer, mean height at the fea 28 Polegadas, 2 Lines, for elevated fituations — -i Line equal to 73 Feet. 1783 — 28.27 4 Feb. i6 and 19 Dec, 27.5 2 Nov. 1784 — 28.7 21 April 27.5 27 Dec. 1785 — 28.6 9 January 27.6 17 Feb. Variation of the Needle w^as obferved about the latter end of the year 1785 to be about 23°, or fomewhat more. 1789 23: 1 1« 1777, was remarkably wet. 1779 and 1782, the quantity of rain only 20 Polegadas. 1783, it rain'd 240 times in 124 days — Meafured by time, it rain'd 572 hours, or 24 days. 1784, 384 times, or 23 days. ^7^Sf 232 times, or 19 days. 1782, February 19, it fnow'd. 1783, February 18, and March 12, it hail'd. Obfervatlons for 1 78 1 . Days. ^ Pol. I. Fair weather 200 Quantity of rain 23 7 Cloudy - 88 Dec. 6. to Dec. 27. 9t Rain - 77 18 only - 18 Lines, Therm. 11 July 99° 7 i, • u. r.i, /^ o T J- mean height of the year 63' 10 Jan. 34° J ^ JO Pol. L. ^7 5? ■8 8.i Barom. 9 Dec. 27 ^ ^^ ^o 29 25 Number 222 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Nianhcr rf Marriages^ Births^ and Dinths ycgijlerccl at IJJlon iu the Tears 178S and 1789. Anno 178S. Anno 1789. Marriages 1560. - 1598. Births 7041. - 6561. * Deaths 5'ii4- .- 5386. . Of the Portuguefe Jc^ws. The late Lord Tarawley appears to have entertained a fmgular opinion of the inhabitants of Portugal, when he aflerted that they were compofed of Jews and Sebaflians. One clafs of thefe, he fays, expedt the coming of the Mefliah ; the other. King Sebaftian. Which of thefe two parties have the ftronger faith I leave the reader to con- jedlure ; but I muft obferve, with his Lordfliip's per- miflion, that there is a third party in Portugal, which includes almoft every individual in it, w^ho expert neither •until the Millennium. There might, indeed, be ftill a few in the kingdom who are in expedlation of the Mefliah; but even thefe few ai'e obliged to confefs that he is already come. Among the Jews of this country were formerly to be found men of great talents. The celebrated edition of "the Bible, which was publifhed at Farrara in one thoufand live hundred and fifty-three, was tranflated by a Portu- • The Friars, Nuns, and their domeflics, are not included in the lift of deaths. guefc TRAVELS TN PORTUGAL. 2^3 guefe Jew ; it is rendered nearly word for word with the original Hebrew text into a fort of corrupt Spanilh, then ufcd in the Jewifh fynagogues. Such words in the tranf- lation as are not in the original are marked with afterifks. This work was reprinted in line characters at Holland m one thoufand fix hundred and thirty ; but many of the words were altered, with a view to render them more intel- ligible, and feveral of the afteriiks were omitted. The firft edition is become very fcarcc. In the reign of John the FiHl they had their fynagogues and Rabbins in Portugal ; and John the Second and Ema- nuel tolerated them at the commencement of their reigns. Duarte Nonnez, a Jew, who was banifhcd from Portugal, his native country, in the fixteenth century, \\'as preferred by the Catholic King to be a privy-counfellor on account of his great abilities, though all of that perfuafion were formerly banifhed from Spain. The following account of their expulfion from Portuoral is chiefly extra6led from Oforio, Bilhop of Silva, whofe relation is efteemed the moft corred; extant ; as he had the beft information on the fubjed, and was an eminent and impartial hiflorian, as well as a Chriftian philofopher. Their Caftilian Majefties, Ferdinand and Ifabclla, hav-- ing conceived an averfion to this people, who were charged with many ads ot impiety againft the Chrifcian religion, baniihed- 224 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. briiiillied them from their dominions in the year one thou- flmd four hundred and eighty-two. They difperfed into different places, but the greateft part fled to Portugal. John the Second gave them flielter, on condition that each fliould pay him eight Ducats, and quit the kingdom at a limited time, othervvife they fliould become flaves ; he was bound to furnifh veffels to tranfport them wherever they thought proper, and to give full liberty to all who had a mind to depart. Whilft King John's flate of health permitted him to difcharge the affairs of the kingdom, he was careful in performing his promife ; he gave orders to commiffion veffels to tranfport them wherever they deflred, and com- manded that none fhould moleft them. His orders, how- ever, were not attended to, for the captains and feamen treated them in the moft cruel manner, keeping them cruifing backwards and forwards on the ocean till all their provifions became exhaufled, and were conftrained to buy of the captains at fo exorbitant a rate, that on landing they were ftripped to the very fhirts ; nor did their wives and daughters efcape the violence of thefe tyrants, but became vidlims to their luft. The reft of the Jews who remained in Portugal, partly alarmed with the apprehenflons of fuch barbarous ufage, and partly hindered by want of money to procure necef- faries for the voyage, remained in the kingdom till the 6 time TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 225 time prefcribed had elapfed, and thus forfeited their Uberty. Whoever now wiflied to have a Jewifh Have petitioned the King, who generally afTigned them to fuch perfons as he knew to be of a mild and merciful difpolition, and difpofed to lighten the chains of the miferable wretches. This happened a fhort time before the death of John ; but it was the general opinion, efpecially of thofe who had been moft converfant with the King, that, had he lived a little longer, he would have giveu them their free- dom upon eafy terms. Such was the lituation of the Jews when Emanuel be- gan his reign. This Prince being feniible that necefllty, not choice, caufed them to continue in Portugal after the limited time, generously reftored them to their liberty. Induced by a grateful fenfe of fuch extraordinary bene- volence, they offered him a large fum of money, which he refufed ; being refolved to gain their affedlions by kind treatment, and by degrees to convert them to the Chriftian faith. The peace, however, of the unhappy Jews was of fhort duration : the clamour raifed againft them through- out the nation induced the King to take the matter ao;ain into confideration. His council was divided in opi- nions, whether the Jews, who had been driven out of Spain, and taken up their refidence in Portugal, fhould be banifhed from thence or allowed to remain. In the mean G G time, 226 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. time the King and Queen of Caftile fent letters to Ema- nuel, earneftly intreating that he would not fuffer fuch a perverfe people, fo much under the difpleafure of God and the odium of men, to remain in his dominions. Emanuel looked upon this as a point of the utmoft delicacy. Some of his counfellors were of opinion that they ought not to be exterminated, lince the Pope himfelf had permitted them to dwell in his territories. Induced by his example, feveral ftatcs in Italy, and many Chriftian Princes in Germany, Hungary, and other parts of Europe, had alfo granted the fame liberty, and allowed them to carry on trade and bufinefs of all forts. Befides, (faid they,) their banifhment can never reclaim them ; for wherever they go they will carry their perverfe difpofitions. A change of country will never effed a change of fentiment in their depraved minds. Should they pafs into Africa, on being driven from hence, which is not improbable, all hopes of their converlion muft be loft. Whilft they live among Chriftians, many of them will be influenced by friendfhip and example to embrace the Chriftian faith, as fome have already done, which can never be expeded when they come to be mixed with blind and fuperftitious Mahometans. Befldes, it will be very detrimental to the public intereft, if thofe people, fome of whom pof- fefs confiderable riches, carry their wealth to the Moors, and teach our enemies the arts they have learned in our nation; On TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 227 On the other hand, thofe of a different opinion af- firmed, that the Jews, not without reafon, had been ba- nifhed from Spain, France, and many places in Germany, by Princes who fet a lefs value upon the increafe of their revenues than the interefts of religion: they perceived the dangerous confequences of allowing fuch a people to remain in their dominions ; that they were apt to impofe on the fimple and infedl the illiterate with their perni- cious doArine ; that it would be very imprudent to put the leaft confidence in men fo inveterate againft our holy religion, who were bound by no ties or obligations, but ready to facrifice every thing to their intereft, pry into the fecrets of the ftate, and give intelligence to our enemies. It would likewife (faid they) be more eligible to banifli them immediately when they can only carry away the wealth they have fcraped together in other countries, than to allow them to remain longer, and then to difmifs them, after they fliould have amafl'ed confiderable riches, Emanuel was influenced by the latter opinion, and de- creed, that all the Jews, and Moors likewife, who had refufed to embrace the Chriftian faith, fhould quit his do- minions ; and fixed a day, after which all thofe who re- mained in Portugal were to lofe their liberty. When the day approached, they began to prepare for their departure. Emanuel was greatly affli^led to think that fo many thoufands of people fliould be driven into G G 2 banifli- 228 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. banifhrnent ; and was defirous, at leaft, to convert their children. For this purpofe he devifed a fcheme, which^ in fadt, was contrary to all juftice and equity, though eventually attended with good confequences to the king- dom. He ordered all the cliildren of the Jews, under fourteen years of age, to be forcibly taken from their pa- rents, that they might be educated in the Chriftian faith ^ an order which, in the execution, was attended with the moft affeding circumftances. What a- moving fpvedlacle was this to behold I Children torn from the embraces of their fcreaming mothers ; others dragged from the necks of their weeping fathers, and af- fed:ionate brothers and fiflers, about to be feparated for ever. The city of Lifbon was filled with cries and la- mentations ; even the fpedtators could not refrain from tears. Fathers and mothers, moved with indignation, were commonly feen to lay violent hands upon themfelves, and precipitating, out of love and compafTion, their infant children into wells and pits, to avoid the feverity of this decree. There was flill another calamity that bore hard upon, the unfortunate viftims ; fuch as were defirous of leaving the country had not the liberty of fo doing. The King was fo intent upon making converts of them, that he re- folved, partly by rewards, partly by neceffity, to invite or compel them to embrace the Chriflian faith. By agree- 1 1 ment TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL, ^^^ ment he was to have provided them with fliipping, and to allow them to depart unmolefted ; but this he put off from time to time, and obliged them to refort from all quarters to Lifbon, to be fent abroad, though at iirfl he promifed tliree different ports for their departure. The time was fo protradled by thefe delays, that the day- fixed upon had elapfed, and all who remained forfeited their liberty. Thus haraffed, they at length affedled to become Chriftians ; by which they were reflored to their liberty, and recovered their children. The King gave them great encouragement, fo that many of them lived contentedly in the Portuguefe dominions. " Upon whofe faith, (fays " Montaigne,) as alfo that of their pofterity, even to this " day, few Portuguefe can rely, or believe them to be real " converts, though time and cuftom are much more po- " tent counfellors in fuch changes, than all other con^ " ftraints." Such were the methods ufed to bring about the con-^ verfion of the Jews ; but furely it muft be confeffed to be unwarrantable. Will any one pretend to maintain, that it is confiftent with the principles of common juftice, or of religion, to force perverfe and obftinate minds into a belief of things which, in reality, they rejed and de— fpife ? Can any one pretend to hinder the freedom of the will, or fetter the underftanding ? It is impoffible, and directly averfe from the doctrine of Chrift. He does not take a-o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. take pleafuie in any thing that proceeds from force or conftraint ; he is pleafed only with a voluntary facrifice flowino' from the heart. He does not command violence to be offered to the underftanding of men, but to invite them by reafon and gentlenefs to the contemplation of true religion. Befides, what is more prefumptuous than for a mortal to take upon him to do what the Divine Spirit only can effedt. It is He alone who is able to en- lighten and purify the minds of men ; and fuch as He finds not altogether perverfe and repugnant to His holy influence, He removes from darknefs to the light of Chrif- tianity. That many of the Jews were not fincere in their coi- verfion has been often evinced fince the above period, by the numbers that have fuffered perfecution, or quitted the country to avoid the rigour of the inquifition. The greateft part of them have fettled in England and Holland ; and among the Jews who refide in thefe countries, thofe of Portugal are faid to be the moll refpe<3:able characters . I know one of them in this country who is much refpeded and efteemed by all who know him for his amiable qua- lities ; he is kind and affedionate to his relations, and warmly attached to his friends, among whom are people of various fe6ls, Jews and Gentiles. If many of the de- fcription of Mr. Rebello of Hackney have been banifhed from Portugal, the lofs muft be very great indeed. A And TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 231 And yet, notwithftanding the perfecutions they have fuffered, the love of that country is fo rooted in their na- ture, that many of them have been known to import earth from Lifbon, and enjoined their furviving friends, as their laft dying requeft, to depofite it along v^^ith their corpfe. This is literally carrying the love of country into the grave. There is fomething in the air and foil of Portugal fo con-- genial to the difpolition of the Ifraelites, that when once accuftomed to it, neither time, nor change, nor perfecu- tion, can alter their affections for it. Lufitania, in fhort, is their favourite land ; their Salem ; for which they mourn wherever fate compels them to ftray, like their anceftors of old on the banks of the Euphrates, who hung their harps on willow branches, and fighed for their beloved Salem. Father Lewis de Souja. It is to the pen of this Father that I am indebted for the hiftory of the Royal Monaftery of Batalha, of which I have given a tranflation in my account of that flrudlure. Amongft the hiftorians of Portugal, he holds the firfl: rank in point of ftyle and veracity. As the circumftance which induced him to feclude himfelf from the world and become a friar is rather lingular, a fhort account of it may not be unacceptable to the reader. In one thoufand five hundred and feventy-eight, when Don Sebaftian, King of Portugal, was defeated and flain in a pitched 232 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. pitched battle againft Muly Moloch, Emperor of Morocco, many of the Nobility of Portugal who accompanied him fhared the fame fate, and others who fell into the enemy's hands were made captives. Amongft the Gentlemen who accompanied King Sebaflian in this unfortunate expedition, there was one whofe name tlie biograT?her has omitted; it was included, however, in the return of the flain. When his wife who refided in Lifbon received the intelligence, ihe neverthelefs enter- tained hopes that it might have been a miftake, and that Heaven would yet favour her with a light of him. Under this plealing expectation fhe remained ten years, notwithflanding the repeated accounts fhe received from the agents employed to redeem the captives confirmed the relation of his death. Her friends, who were convinced 431 the truth of it, entreated her to relinquifh the idea of ever feeing him, and to enter once more into the marriage flate. Soufa, at this time, moved in the firfl circles of fafhion: his company was much fought for, as he was an excellent fcholar, as well as an accomplifhed Gentleman, he paid his addrefTes to this Lady : her incredulity refpeding her hufband's death, at this time, began to give way, and fhe was prevailed on by her relations to give him her hand. Accordingly they were married, and lived together in the greateft TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ^33 greateft harmony ; but it was of fhort duration : a mer- chant from Africa arrived in Lifbon, fought out the Lady, and informed her, that he was charged with a commiffion from her hufband who was in captivity, and relied upon her affedlions to expedite his releafe. The unfortunate woman, quite overwhehned with fhame and furprife in this affeding dilemma, afked de Soufa's ad- vice, who was alfo afloniflied at the news. As he was a prudent and confcientious man, he refolved to be guided in a matter of fuch delicacy by the pureft didates of honour. In the firft place, in order to afcertain the fa£t, he had recourfe to an ingenious expedient ; he conduced the meflenger to a pidlure gallery in his houfe, told him that a portrait of the Gentleman whom he affirmed to have feen was in the colledion, and requefted him to point it out as a proof that there was no miftake in his declaration. The merchant endeavoured to excufe him- felf, faying, that a long ftate of fervitude and cruel treat- ment had made fuch a change in the captive Gentleman, that he doubted if his moft intimate friends could recog- nize him were he prefent ; neverthelefs, fays he, fome leading features induce me to think that this is his por- trait, pointing to the identical one. Soula, from this and other collateral circumftances, was now convinced of the truth of the whole, and applauded tl:^ merchant for his humanity. H H This 234 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. This affair affected Soufa very much ; he deliberated with himfelf in what manner to a£t; at length he refolved, having no children to provide for, to retire from the world, and feclude himfelf in a monaftery. The wife approved the refolution, and as a proof of her grief and affedtion, retired alfo into a nunnery near Li{bon. But previous to their feclufion, they ufed every means in their power, to refcue the unfortunate Gentleman from captivity. Soufa now entered into the Dominican order, and lived in the convent of Bemfica near Lisbon. The Fathers of this order, defirous of completing the hiftory of their founda- tion, thought this a favourable opportunity, and knowing Soufa to be a man of great talents, they requefted him to undertake the tafk, and perfeft what Cacegas, a friar of the fame order, had begun. He accordingly fet about it, and after many years labour, publifhed it in the year one thou- fand fix hundred and nineteen, under the name of Cacegas, and his own; thus, from his extreme modefty, dividing the honour of the work, the whole of which he could juflly claim as his own ; but pofterity has done juftice to his memory, and Cacegas' s name is now remembered only through Soufa's works. His fads are faid to be accurate and well arranged ; his dedudions natural and folid ; his ftyle t!iroughout is fimple and nervous ; and what adds greater honour to his memory, he was a man of exemplary piety and hu- manity. 6 In 256 TRAVELS IN PORTaOAL. rigid Order of Saint Francis. They are governed by a Prior, and live chiefly on fifh, fruit, and bread : each has a feparate cell, about the fize of a grave, furniilied with a mattrefs ; yet one of their community who lately died, named Honorius, thinking the meaneil of thefe cells too luxurious a habitation, retired to a circular pit at the rear of the Hermitage, not larger than Diogenes's tub, for it is but four feet diameter ; and here, after a reiidence of fixteen years, he ended his peaceful days at a good old age. The floor of it is ftrewed with leaves, which ferved for his bed ; and the rugged flone, which he ufed alternately as a pillow and feat, is flill to be feen there. Thefe in- ftances of felf- denial fhew us into what a narrow compafs all human wants might be reduced, and evince the truth of the poet's affertion : Man wants but little here below ; Nor wants that little long. Goldfmith. A Portuguefe nobleman, well known for his poetical tafte, wrote a few lines extempore, defcribing the beauties of this enchanting country, during my refldence there. I have thus attempted them in Englifh : Defcrlption of Cintra. Cintra, whofe mountains feek the fl%:ies, Thy vallies deck'd in living green ; Thy flowrets rob'd in varying dies, V/ith grottos form'd by Fancy's queen. Refrefhinir TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 255 fpots in the kingdom. The greater part of it is planted with fruit-trees, particularly orange; and though they are fo clofe together, that their boughs intertwine, yet they bear vaft quantities of delicious fruit. The fruit and green markets of Lifbon are chiefly fup- *plied from this luxuriant garden. Mufk and water-melons grow in it in fuch abundance, that the inhabitants fell them during the feafon for lefs than a penny a piece. Of the peculiarity of the foil about this diftridl, Carca- vella furnifhes a ftriking inftance; where there is a vineyard, of no conflderable extent, that yields grapes different from thofe of any other part of the kingdom ; its wine is well known all over Europe, but I believe its name is better known in general than its flavour; for it is not pofTible that fo limited a fpot can yield one half of the wine fold in London alone under the denomination of Carcavella, or Calcavella, as it is improperly called* Cork Convent, This Convent, or Hermitage, is partly burrowed between the rocks, which ferve as vaults to the church, facrifl:y, and chapter-houfe, &c. and partly built over the furface. The fubterraneous apartments are lighted by holes cut obliquely in the rocks, and lined internally with cork, to guard againft the humidity. Hence it is called the Cork Con- vent» It is inhabited by about twenty hermits of the moft rigid 254 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. . that in the regions of injiftity there may be Jlars ivhofc light is not yet travelled down to iis fince their jirji creation. But to return to our fubjed:. Here is a rock called Pedra da Alvidras^ whofe height above the fea, which is at the foot of it, apparently is not lefs than two hundred feet ; and though it is very fteep, and the furface fmooth, yet I am informed that the neighbouring labourers, with- out ropes or apparatus of any kind, defcend to the bot- tom of it to fifh, each carrying a rod and a bafket, and clamber up the fame route. They often perform this tafk for a fmall prefent, to amufe, or rather to terrify, thofe who viiit the place. The leaft flip would be fatal to them, as they muft inevitably be dafhed to pieces againft the fhai-p projeding rocks beneath. I have not heard, however, that any have fallen a facrifice to their temerity. What a ftriking inftance is the above of the effefts of education. A foldier would fooner undertake to face the mouth of a loaded cannon, than to follow fuch a daring example ; yet thefe people, who are accujftomed to it from their infancy, appear diverted of fear on this occafion, though, perhaps, they dare not venture by night to a place reputed for the haunt of ghofts or goblins. i\ fine valley, called Collares, extends between this and the village of Cintra. It may be called the Golden Vale of Portugal ; for it is one of the richeft and befl: cultivated fpots TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. isS who has publifhed a fhort defcrlptlon of Portugal, fays, there remains fome fragments of it bearing the two fol- lowing infcriptions : * Soli . et . Lunae . C^Tius . AciDus . Perennis . Leg . Aug . Pro . Provinciae . lusitani^. Soli . .^iterno . Lun^ . pro . jeternitate , Imperii . et . salute . Imper . Gai . Septimii . Severi . AuGusTi . Pii . ET . Im'p . Gags . M . Aurelii . Antonini . Pii . Et . Julia . aug . — m . CiES • Et . JuLi^ . Aug . matris . G^s . Dru . SUS . VesTER . SiCILIANUS . VlATOUS . Augustorum . T . Q^. Julius . Saturni . Et . Antoxinus » According to Florian de Campo, a continued chain of mountains extends from this place, under the Atlantic Ocean, to the Ifland of Madeira, which is diftant one hundred and fifty leagues from thence. As it is eafier to make afiertions of this kind than to prov^e them, an author, who is fond of the marvellous, may advance them at plea- fure, without apprehenfion of being refuted by ocular de- monftration. Very fewj however, who have ventured into the chaos of conjecture, have fucceeded better than Huygens j his famous hypothefis gives us a fublime idea of the im- menfity of fpace, and of the ineffable works of the Omni- potent Being; befidcs, it is not improbable, as he obferves. 252 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. her Majefty, at whofe feet fhe fat during the concert. I obferved, at different times, that fhe fpoke to the Queen, and refted her hand upon her lap : this inftance of Royal condefceniion to one of that perfecuted race, deferves to be recorded for the honour of human nature. About nine o'clock, two of the moft eminent perform- ers on the violin played a duet : after which the Royai family withdrew to the gardens, where a grand exhibition of fire-works was prepared and played off, under the in- fped:ion of a Prieft of Cintra. When this was over, the Royal guefts fat down to fupper, in a fuperb faloon, decorated with green boughs, fome bearing bloffoms and others fruit. The table was laid out with all the elegance imaginable. There was alfo a table for the Nobility, Miniflers, and OfUcers of the guards, and another for the Maids of Honour, in feparate apart- ments. The princely ftyle in which every thing was con- duced, refledts great honour on the v/ell known taffe and hofpitality of the noble Marquis, whofe charadrer refls upon a ftill more exalted bafis, his attachment to his Sovereign and country, his moderation in all his adlionso About fix miles South-weft of the village of Cintra, are fome vefliges of a flrudture, fuppofed to have been a temple dedicated to the fun and moon. Nimez de Leaoy who TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 151 on the month of AugufI: laft. In the evening they were entertained with an excellent concert, confifting of up- wards of forty performers, among whom were fome emi- nent muficians. Her Majefty was drefied in black. His Royal Highnefs the Prince of Brazil fat on her right hand, and the two Princeffes on her left : all were drefied in the plaineft manner, fuch as every perfon mufl admire who has a juft fenfe of true greatnefs. They were attended by feveral of the Nobility and Minifhers of ftate. The noble hoft begged her Majefty's permifllon to hear an officer of the guards play a folo upon a Jew's harp ; which being granted, he entered the room fully equipped as on duty, and played a difficult piece in a mafterly manner, infomuch as peculiarly to arreft the attention of the Royal vifitants. Next appeared a beautiful girl, about nine years of age, drefied in all the tinfelof theatric pride: fhe fung an euloge to the Queen; and, at the fame time, danced a kind of alemande. Her voice was clear and melodious, her adlion graceful and fentimental. She did not appear embarrafi'ed in the leafl: at the prefence of the Sovereign, whofe power, magnificence, and virtues, fhe was extolling to the ikies. A dance followed after this between a black girl, a na- tive of Africa, and a dwarf belonging to the Marquis de Marialva: the African is named Don Rofa; ffie lives with K K 2 her 250 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. chace, which are intelligible only to grooms and falconers, but to confult the welfare of the people. Your Majefty will find fufficient employment in attending to their wants ; and if you will remove the grievances with which they are oppreffed, you will find them dutiful and obedient fub- jedis, if not — — here the King ftarting up in a rage in- terrupted him, faying, if not .^ what then? If not, re- fumed the Nobleman in a firm tone, they will look for a better King.' Alfonfo haftened out of the room, and in the higheft tranfport of paffion exprelTed his refentment ; but as paflion always begins in folly and ends in forrow, his rage foon abated, and he returned with a ferene countenance to the aflembly, whom he thus addreffed : ** I now perceive the truth of what you have juft ad- vanced. A King, who will not perform the duties of his throne, cannot have affectionate fubjedls. Remember, that from this day you have to do, not with Alfonfo the fportf- man, but with Alfonfo the Fourth, King of Portugal." His Majefty did not fail to adhere to his promife. He after- wards became one of the beft Kings that ever reigned in, Portugal. The Marquis de Marialva has a manfion near this vil- lage, where the Royal family honoured him with a vifit 3 oii TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 249 no gardens annexed to it on account of the precipice to the rear. Alfonfo the Fourth, at his acceflion to the throne, pafled a month here together in hunting the wild beads, which, in his time, roved in numbers about thefe moun- tains. The fevere reproof he received from one of his fubjeds on that occafion deferves to be recorded. Whilft the King was enjoying the pleafures of the chace with his favourites, the affairs of the ftate were configned to men who fludied their own intereft more than that of the public. The Nobility, perceiving the abufes of the Minifters, and the Sovereign's inattention to the duties of his crown, held a council at Lifbon, to which they invited the Prince. He accordingly appeared ; but, inftead of attending to their deliberations, he proceeded to recite his adventures at Cintra, with all the levity of a young fportf- man. When he had finilhed his narrative, one of the Noblemen ftood up, and thus addreffed the King : " Sire, — Courts and camps were allotted for Kings, not woods and mountains. When bufinefs is facrihced to amufement, the affairs even of private perfons are in dan- ger; but when pleafure engroffes the thoughts of a King, a whole nation muft inevitably be configned to ruin. Sire, we came here, not to hear the adventures of the K K chace, 248 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. it after a clofe confinement of feven years. The floor of the apartment wherein he was immured, which is paved with tiles, is broken and worn in many parts, from his ftcps ; for he was continually walking in it, or taking fnuif, his chief araufements. The principal crime laid to the charge of this unfortu- nate Prince was impotency ; for this he loft his crown, his wife, and his liberty. He reigned five years, was im- prifoned fourteen ; eight of which he paffed in the ifiand of Tercera, and the remainder here. He died in one thoufand fix hundred and fixty-nine, in the forty-eighth year of his age ; and in three months after died his wife, who married his brother Peter the Second. This palace, apparently, has been raifed by piece-meal, for it is very irregular throughout; the architedure is chiefly Arabian: the ornaments that accompany the win- dows reprefent interlaced branches of trees deprived of the leaves, and as though fome of the fhoots v/ere lopped off. I have given a reprefentation of one of them in the introdudion to my defcription of the monafl:ery of Batalha. Over the kitchen are raifed two lofty cones for chimnies, which refemble the fhafts of our glafshoufes : the apart- ments are numerous; but the communication from the one to the other is not very convenient. The principal orna- ments about it are fountains, which are conftantly fup- plied frpm the mountains with excellent water : there are no TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 247 hisheft water to be found in this mountain ; and the fame depth below the furface of the earth is fufficient, generally, to afcertain water in plains : of courfe, the fame caufe by which water is impelled to afcend in the latter, will apply to the former. We may alfo add, that in moun- tains the interfpaces of the rocks may be confidered as fo many tubes through which water afcends, as in the fhafts of wells, owing to its volatile and porous nature ; for it is computed to have forty times more fpace in it than matter : we find a fimilar effect produced by a cloth partly im- merfed, and partly hanging over the fide of a vefTel with water, M'hich it draws out as effectually as a fiphon. At the foot of the above mountain, contiguous to the villaore of Cintra, is a palace, wherein the Royal family ufed formerly to re{ide during the Summer feafon, on ac- count of the amenity of the place, and the falubrity of the air; for though it is but fixteen miles diftant from Lifbon, yet I was allured by a Gentleman, who occafionally re- fided here for many years, and kept a regifter of the weather, that he found it, on an average, eight degrees colder in the month of July than the capital. Notwitliftandhig this and many other advantages which Cintra pofTefTes over any other part of Portugal, it is but little refortcd to by the natives. The palace is entirely de- ferted, and has not, I believe, been much frequented fince the death of Alfonfo VI. who ended his miferable life in it Lo»nf Satlp. l.onjon PiitUfhii Jl.zt/ 1- i^ifi . i>u CaJiU k D.iriej: Strand 246 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. lediment, which, according to . Vitruvius, are the fureft figns of the lah-ibrity of water. There is a tradition among the common people, that treafures are hidden beneath the above ruins; and that under this bath are interred a Morifque King, with his treafures, in a tomb of brafs, guarded by evil fpirits. And not only the common people, but alfo thofe who, from their lituation in life, ought to know better, give credit to thefe ridiculous tales. The village of Cintra, and the different villas at the foot ot the mountain, are fupplied with water from its fummit, by means of little conduits formed aloncr its fides. How this water is collected on the mountain, has given rife to various conjedures : fome imagine it to pro- ceed from the diftillations of the clouds, which, as we obferved before, envelope it morning and evenino- ; but it is evident that an hour of meridian fun, in Summer, will exhale more vapours in this country, than is imbibed by the higheft mountain in the courfe of a night. Others conjedure that the latent moifture is drawn upwards by fome magnetic properties of the mountain, in the nature of a^iphon; but, firidly fpeaking, there is no water to be found here on the very fummit. The convent, vv^hich is feated on the mountain, is fupplied by a well, which I compute to be fixty or feventy feet deep ; now this is the higheft TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 245 On the Weftern fide of the mountain are feen the re- mains of fome ancient walls, which are built partly on the rocks, and partly conftru6led over the cavities. Subter- ranean paffages and fragments of ancient tombs are faid to have been found here ; but hitherto no account of them, nor of the other veftiges, have been given to the public. Whether they are Roman or Moorifque I could not learn ; but moft probably they appertain to the latter, or at leaft parts of them, as there are the remains of an ancient building, fuppofed to have been a mofque ftill ex- tant. A fmall apartment to the rear of it is vaulted and ornamented with ftars painted on an azure ground ; and the walls ftill retain fome veftiges of Arabic charadlers. The fineft piece of antiquity about the place is a qua- drangular monument, fuppofed to have been a Moor- ifque bath ; it is fifty feet long by feventeen broad. An- nexed is an interior view of it ; Plate XII. The walls are built of hewn ftone, with three pilafters at each fide, which are continued in arches, as bands to the vault, with which it is covered. The water of this bath is four feet deep ; and what is very remarkable, it neither increafes or diminifhes. Win- ter or Summer, though it has no apparent fource ; and notwithftanding it is never cleaned, yet it is always tranf- parent, and the fides and bottom are free from weeds or fediment, 2+4 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. achieved on mountains; they are the fitteft theatres, on many accounts, for performing great exploits. Indeed it is almoft impoflible for an inhabitant of this place not to acft and think different from thofe who dwell in a valley. The founds and profpefts peculiar to it are very favourable to reflexion, particularly of a ftormy day, when the murmurs of furges, and the howling of tem- pefts, fill the mind with a fympathetic fadnefsT Where- ever we turn our eyes, the mind is ftruck with the awful works of Nature : on one fide is the diftant ocean, whofe evanid furface blends with the blue horizon ; beneath, the deep valley ftrikes one with the appearance of an auguft cavern : the fliattered flate of the impending rocks on the declivity of the mountain, torn as it were afunder, and every where burfting from the foil, threaten at the leaft fliock to tumble down and deftroy the village. About thirty years ago a foreign gentleman difcovered a mine of loadjftone in this mountain. What fiiggefted the idea of it, were the herbs that grew immediately over it, which were of a pale colour, and more feeble than the adjacent plants of the fame fpecies. Having dug about fix feet deep, he found a fine vein ; but as the mountain is a mafs of disjointed rocks and clay, he could not pro- ceed farther, without propping as he excavated. Govern- ment, therefore, apprehending the produce would not de- fray the expence, ordered it to be fhut up. I On TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 243 parent as glafs. Hence it was called PhejigiteSi from the Greek word Phejigos ; that is to fay, brightnefs. " I have met fome who hold Pliny's relation of this temple as fabulous ; but indeed there is nothing iri it incredible ; for daily experience evinces the truth of as improbable matters. In the church of Saint Mmias, at Florence, there are windows of alabafter, inftead of glafs ; a table of which fills each aperture, though fifteen feet high, and yet the church is fufficiently luminous. .Were the alabafter column (landing in the Vatican library cut into tables, it would be almoft as tranfparent as glafs." To return to the monaftery. Here is an hofpitium for the accommodation of pilgrims who vifit this church to perform nevenaries ; that is to fay, nine days devotion ; and alfo for thofe who come to celebrate vigils. The number of Friars who formerly inhabited the mo- naftery amounted to thirty ; at prefent they are reduced to four. Were I one of the Order, I fhould wiOi to pafs my days among them ; for I never faw a more charming fituation for meditation, more fequeftered from the con- cerns of life, or better adapted lor difpofing the mind to the contemplation of another life. Hence I do not wonder at the relations handed down to us from paft ages, of fo many mighty things having been 112 achieved ■242 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. From the village of Cintra, which is fituated at the foot of this mountain, on the Weftern fide, I fpent two liours in climbing up to the monaftery. It was founded by King Emanuel at the beginning of the fixteenth cen- tury. The architedlure is of a fpecies of Gothic, not purely Norman nor Arabian, but a compound of both t the whole is built of a greyifli ftone of the granite kind, and the vaults of the church, chaptcr-houfe, and facrifty, are conftruded of the fame materials, and formed into divers compartments by ribs and crofs fpringers ; the chap- ter-houfc, particularly, exhibits a fine fpecimen of this kind of vaulting^. ■•.♦ In the church is a cunous/acran'um of alabafter, faid ta be the work of an Italian. Whoever was the artift, he appears to have poffcffed but flender abilities as a fculptor. One of the Friars placed a lighted candle in the infide of it, and clofed the aperture ; yet, from the tranfparency of tlie ftone, it emitted light fufficient to read by. Probably it was of this kind of ftone that the Temple of Fortuna Seta was conftrudted, of which Montfaucon. fpeaks in his Diarhim Jtalicum. *' Pliny informs us, that Nero built the Temple of Fortuna Seia, on the fpot firft dedicated to her by Servius Tidlius^ of a fort of ftone found in Cappadocia, as tranf- 13 parent TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 241 Cintra. The name of a mountainous country, about twenty miles Weft of Liibon. That part of it which is called the Rock of Cintra is well known to all navigators, from its being fituated at the Weftern extremity of Europe. In the writings of the ancient geographers, it is called the Promontory of the Moon ; by others, Olijtponefe ; probably on account of its vicinage to Li{bon ; but according to Strabo, it was formerly named Hierna. Nature apparently threw up the mountain of Cintra as a formidable barrier to ftay the waves of the Atlantic Ocean, and to mark the Weftern termination of her works . in the European world. The height of the loftieft part of it above the level of the fea is computed at upwards of three thoufand feet. Every morning its fummit is enve- loped in clouds, and in the evening, long after night has obfcured the vallies, it retains fome glimmering of day- light. On its apex there is a monaftery of the Order of Saint yeronimOy whofe Weftern front ftrikes every fpedator with awe, as it appears hanging over an affemblage of lofty fhattered rocks. I I From 240 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. implore thee to accede to my fupplications. Peace be with thee ! " Know, O interpreter of this letter ! that the Xeque Wagerage warns thee to read this narrative to the King in a proper and becoming manner, without adding or di- minifhing ought; fo that it may appear to all, that the Sovereign was delighted with its contents. He will pay thee thy cuftomary fees ; be careful, therefore, in doing juftice to it, and God will reward thee. Twenty-eighth of Zulcade nine hundred and twenty-one of the Hegira ; which correfponds to the thirtieth of September one thou- fand five hundred and fifteen." Note by De Souza, The Xeque Wagerage was Lord of Melinda when Vafco da Gama concluded a treaty of alliance with him, in the year fifteen hundred ; in confequence of which, that Prince fent an Ambaffador with Vafco da Gama to Portugal, with a rich prefent to King Emanuel. This Ambaffador returned to Melinda in the fhip of Pedralves Cabral, and brought with him a letter and a prefent from K-ing Emanuel to his friend the Xeque. Vide Chron, part i. 42. et feq. iJintra^ TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 239 *' Thy fervant, the Xeque Wagerage, implores thee to look with an eye of compafTion and clemerxy on the in- habitants of Melinda, and if they be found worthy of fo great a favour, it will raife them in tlie eftimation of fur^ rounding nations, and entitle them to their praife, re- fped:, and protedion ; and as the Xeque of Melinda never yet viiited Mofambique, he expeds that thou wilt condefcend that he fhould go thither ; and if any perfon, whether Portuguefe or Muffelman, jfhould prefume to dic- tate to him, or refift his authority, he fliall reply, that fuch is King Emanuel's pleafure, which is the manner he now commands and determines all matters in Melinda ; becaufe the authority of Monarchs is unlimited: he alfo defires, when the Xeque of Melinda is at Mofambique, that orders will be given to the Portuguefe not to offend him, but confider him as the organ of the King, and in- vefted with his power. He will take cognizance of thofc who have always co-operated to exalt thy name, intereft, and reputation ; of this teftimony fhall be given by thy fervants Simon de Andrade, Francifco Pereira, Fernando de Freitas, Gafpar de Paiva, Antonio da Cofta, and all the reft of the Chriftians, as well as MufTelmen of Mo- zambique. " In fine, be aflured, O King! that myfelf, my fons, and my property, are devoted to thy fervice, and fhall continue fo to the laft day of my life ; therefore I implore 238 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. " In ancient days, be it known to thee, O King, there lived a generous man, named Halem, who was the very eflence of liberality, and had riches adequate to his mu- nificence ; in all his life he was never known to refufe any requeft : it is related that a man who wanted to try the extent of his liberality, made a journey for that pur- pofe to his houfe. Halem afked what brought him hither. I came, faid he, to demand thy head. What claim haft thou to my head, replied Halem ? Liften to me, quoth he ; there lives a King in my neighbourhood, ^vho gave me a thoufmd pieces of gold to permit him to wear his head. Halem immediately retired to his chamber, brought out a thoufand pieces, and fays to the man, as he extended his neck. Here, friend, take your choice, my head or the money; the man accepted the latter, and went away. *' Thy fervant now, O King ! repeats a fimilar experi- ment ; as thou art the moft liberal Sovereign among the Kings of the earth, I figure to myfelf thy mighty power and refplendent qualities ; and my friends, who have weighed thy grandeur with all others, agree that Alex- ander and Caefar were even as duft in the balance compared to thee, becaufe all the treafure of the globe is at thy dif- pofai ; thy generofity, therefore, however great, can never leffen thy wealth ; remember then, O King ! that, of all others, I am * the moft deferving of thy favours. * He fpeaks of himfeif promifcuoufly in the third and firlt perfons Angular. " Thy TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 237 is King Emanuel ; the great God perpetuate his reign, and preferve him from the envy and artifice of his enemies. Amen. " This is to give thee to underftand, moft dear and nncere friend, that the writer is in good health, and anxious to know the ftate of thine, and of all that be- long to thee. May the Lord preferve thee, and all that is thine ! He would have come in perfon to thy noble pre- fence ; but being occupied in rearing his fons, and pro- viding them with fervants and flaves, who, together with their father, is thy fervant and Have ; and never ceafes to pray to God,, by day and night, to crown thee with ho- nour, riches, and glory. His perfon and property have been entirely devoted to thy fervice, from the firft time he- has feen thy fubjedis to the prefent hour, as they can in- form thee. He implores thy protedion and friendfhip,. to the end that he may be honoured and efteemed by thy people. He begs thy permiilion to fail in his own- fliip once a year to Goa and Mofambique, to provide ne- eeffaries for thy ufe.. " Having contemplated all that this world could hitherto^ boaft of, he never could difcover a monarch more power- ful, nor an empire more happy than thine. It has pleafed^ God to fhower his bleffmgs in abundance on thee, and it is to him alone thofe blellings muft be afcribed. C( ta 2^6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL, ornamented, his houfes lofty, his palaces admirable, his- people juft, his clergy humble, his monks learned, his- conflitution eftablilhed, his fubje<9:s enterprifing, his gates defended, his heroes intrepid, his cavalry valiant ; one of them ^vould fight a hundred warriors. To his city are difpatched fleets deeply laden ; his prefence bows the head and bends the knee ; he is the fountain of commerce in every city and kingdom. The equity of his adminiftration; enriches the poor, and fhortens the days of his enemies : whoever feeks to find a blemifh in him, will feek in vain for what the eye never faw, nor the ear ever heard ; he is the fource of goodnefs and honours, the difpenfer of titles, the flem of nobility, the centre of the univerfe, the pillar of power, the munificent protedor of the virtuous and meritorious, the King of regions, the crown of greatneis, the diadem of liberality, whofe forces have fubdued Sinde,, India, Perfia, Arabia, Egypt, Syria, Yeman, and all the provinces of the univerfe. His voice brings the infolent to fubjediion, and his afpeft humbles the proud ; an ex- ample beyond emulation; his name is praifed amongfb men, becaufe he raifes up the poor. When he fits on his throne every eye is dazzled with his glory ; his cuftoms are agreeable, his authority nerves the arm of the warrior, his fame refounds from pole to pole, his prefence is more beautiful than the full moon, his graces refrefh like the dew of fpring, his determinations are as fixed as fate, his name extends to every part of the earth, his beneficence diftinguifhes him at all times and in all countries : fuch II is TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 235 In the year one thoiifand feven hundred and ninety, Father John de Souza, who we before mentioned (page 154 and 199) publillied a curious coliedtion of papers^ entitled Dociwientos Arabicos, which he translated into Portuguefe, by permillion of her Majefty, from the original Arabic manufcripts, dcpolited in the royal archives of Lifbon. They chiefly coniift of copies of letters that pafTed be- tween the Kings of Portugal and the tributary Princes of India in the fixteenth century. We fhall attempt to ren- der one of them into Englifli from the Portuguefe verflon, which is written in the true fpirit of the adulatory ftyle. A Lette}' fro7n the King of Melinday to Ema?iuel King of Portugal, *' With the moft profound refpeft, exalted and honour- able expreflions, praifes, falutations, and greetings from an humble and faithful fervant, (who implores forgivenefs from the majefty of God,) the Xeque Wagerage, to the prefencc of the moft illuftrious, happy, efteemed, fincere, praife-worthy, protefting, permanent, and invincible Mo- narch Emanuel, to whom appertain every kindnefs, favour, and honour. His name is celebrated by the people of ev^ery region ; his beneficence is perpetual, and his fame everlafting. Lord of the ennobled court, of the kingdom of difcoveries, and of the palace of treafurcs. His fubjedls are victorious, his caftles formidable, his garrifons forti- fied, his batteries elevated, his walls decorated, his ftreets H H 2 ornamented, TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 257 Refrefhing rills that never fail, When Phoebus fhoots his brightefl; beams j Whilft balmy odours load each gale, And nodding fruits furvcy the ftreams. Here Zephyr courts each opening flower. And birds that charm, of every fong ; Here echo dwells in mazy bower. And love that lifts the whole night long. Penha Verde^ Formerly the refidence of Don John De Caftro, is now inhabited by one of his defcendants. Here that great man paficd the fhort intervals that peace permitted his ab fence from the field or the ocean ; alternately employed in ftudy and cultivating his gardens. To evince his indif- ference for any emolument that might arife from thefe plantations, he caufed them to be flripped of every fruit- tree, and had fterile ones planted in their place. Penha Verde, for its extent, is the beft fituated for diver- fity and profpedl of any villa in the kingdom ; the country on every fide prefents a wild aiTemblage of flriking fcenes • mountains and vallles interfperfed with rocks, wood, and water ; little temples and grottos are confirudled in divers parts of the gardens: the former is furnifhed with altars, %vhich Don John ufed often vifit to pray; a duty which L L he 258 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. he ftridly obferved, whether in peace or war; for he juftly conceived that piety is not incompatible with true courage. To a man of his caft of mind, there cannot be a more ap- propriate refidence : as the greater part of his life was fpent among fcenes of the moft tumultuous nature, in Europe, Afia, or Africa, the wilds of Cintra ferved but to fan that fpirit of enterprife which animated him till the laft hour of his life. The anions of this celebrated chara£ler have been re- corded by different writers, particularly Jacinto Freyre de Andrade, who has publifhed an account of his life ; and they all allow that he deferves to be clafled in the firft rank of Chriftian heroes. A man who, by his precepts and example, contributed fo much to the advancement of public and private virtue, and left to pofterity the mofl illuftrious inftances of courage, probity, and patriotifm, is entitled to a more honourable niche than I can beftow him among thefe trifling fragments. The fketch that I am about to offer of his memoirs is colle(5led, partly from thofe efteemed the befl Portuguefe writers, and partly from the oral tradition of well-informed people. Don TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 259 Don John de Cajlro. Don John de Caftro was born at Lifbon in the year one thoufand five hundred, of an illuftrious family. In his youth he appears to have made great progrefs in mathema- tics, under the celebrated Peter Nonnius, one of the ableft profeffors of that faience of his time. Fired with the mili- tary fame of his countrymen, he was determined to fhare the laurels which they were then reaping at Tangiers, the feat of martial achievements ; for this purpofe he departed fecretly from his parents at the age of eighteen, and foon after appeared at Africa in the front of battle. His va- lour and prudence did not pafs unnoticed here, for he was knighted in the field by Don Edward de Menezes, the Governor of Tangiers. After ferving nine years in this place, he returned to his native country, where he was received by his Sove- reign and fellow-citizens with every mark of diftindlion to which his fervices juftly entitled him : confcious, how- ever, that he had only done his duty, his mind was not to be diverted by the applaule of the moment. He re- tired to the folitary rocks of Cintra, not to repofe on his laurels, but to promote the farther vvTlfare of his country, by the application of an acftive and capacious mind to the (Indies neceflary to conftitute a great commander. L L 2 As t6o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. As his health, which had been injured by wounds and fatisue, began to mend, he was impatient to put the plans he had deviled in the clofet into execution, which, in a {hort time, he partly accompliihed in various engagements by fea under his command. The tranquillity of affairs in Africa now afforded him an opportunity of difplaying his talents in another quarter. He fet out for India as a volunteer, and accom- panied E/revao?! de Ga?na in his expedition to the mouth of the Red Sea. The King fent out ordeis to the Go- vernor of Goa, to pay him a thoufand crufadcs annually as long as he remained in that country : but Don John refufed this bounty, thinking it more honourable to live frugally on his own fcanty fortune, than be ranked among the needy peniioners of the crown. During the inter\'als of repofe in this expedition was Don John employed in making charts, and taking obferva- tions of the bays and coafls along the Straits of Suez. He is faid to have made many judicious obfervations on the Red Sea, and on the caufe of the overflow of the Nile. Thel~e, together with other pieces written in the courfe of his voyages, he dedicated to the early companion of his fludies, Don Lew^is, brother to the King. But there is one thing ftill more remarkable of him in that expedition, though, perhaps, not generally known. At TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 261 At his return he is faid to have brought to Portugal the firft orar.ge-tree ever fcen in Europe, and from which ori- ginated all that valuable fruitage we poffefs at this day. The fervice he rendered mankind by this aft alone en- titles him to the gratitude of pofterity ; and he himfelf was not fo dazzled with the love of military fame, as not to efteem this gift to his country as the greatefl of all his adions. And here it may be reafonably afked, why a perfon of his diftinguifhed talents was not inverted with fome in^- portant command in Ajfia ? But his biographer thus refolvcs the queftion : In his davs, as at prefent, the Sovereign's favour was but too often obtained through the influence of favourites ; and as Don John was not of an obftquious difprlition, and too proud to derive any diftindion from the minions of a court, it is not matter of furprife that he remained fo long negleded. The time, however, arrived when the King, waving all coniiderations of miniftcrial influence, refolved to reward one faithful fervant, in Don John de CaftrOj who had never afked him a favour, nor ever denied his fervices in his country's caufe. His Majefty fent for him fliortly after his arrival from India, and appointed him Governor of all his territories in the Eaft. He accord- ingly fet out with the general wiflies of the nation, to take upon 262 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. upon him this important command, on the feventeenth of March one thoufand five hundred and forty-five. Having arrived at the feat of government, he found innumerable difficulties to furmount ; an expenfive war had exhaufted the treafury, and the troops were funk into efFeminacy and difiipation. Don John, however, was not to be intimidated by fuch difcouraging circumftances. He immediately fet about reforming every department of the ftate, civil and military, and in a fhort time reftored ceconomy to the one, frugality and difcipline to the other ; he himfelf was the firft to fet the example in each, thereby enforcing his precepts by his pradlice. But the moft difficult part of the talk was to reform the foldiers from their depraved habits ; and in accom- plilliing this, he might be faid to have cheated them into difcipline ; for the only means he employed was emu- lation, of all other means the moft congenial to the pride of a foldier. For this purpofe he introduced every manly exercife that could brace the finews and baniffi effemi- nacy : military evolutions, feats of horfemanfhip, wreft- ling, racing, throwing the bar, &c. indeed it may be faid that he revived the emulation oi the Olympic games in the plains of Goa. The moments of repofe were fparingly counted to every foldier, and out of thefe they were obliged to devote a certain time in fcouring and brighten- ing TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 263 ing their armour, vvhich heretofore had been covered with ruft. An army thus inured to every hardfhip, and the fcorching rays of a vertical fun, were impatient to be led into the field of battle ; their warlike appearance ftruck the enemy wdth terror, and viftory in every conflidt de- clared in their favour. What a ft range appearance a legion of fuch brave fun-burnt fellows would make among the modern Portuguefe, who eftimate men by their indo- lence, by the fairnefs of their fkin, and the delicacy of their fingers ! Of the feveral engagements in which our hero diftin- guifhed himfelf, we fhall, for brevity's fake, notice but the one which contributed moft to exalt his military re- putation, and that was at the relief of Dio. The King of Cambaya, with all the forces of his kingdom, laid fiege to this fortrefs, affifted by a numerous army from the Grand Sultan. During feveral months the gallant Don John Mafcarenhas defended it with a handful of men agalnft the enemy, who are faid to have been upwards of fifty thoufand in number, and had fixty pieces of brafs cannon. The command of this army was given by the Sultan to Coge Sofar, the ableft general in his dominions. Having drawn up his forces before the fortrefs of Dio, he addreffed them to this effect : <' Friends and companions, It is almoft unnecefTary for me to mention how you ought to defpife that handful of Portu- 5 • g^e^e 264 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. guefe before you ; they are fcarcely five hundred in num- ber, without poflibiliLy of receiving any reinforcement by land, and the winter cuts off their profpe6ls of fuccour by fea. Our inceffant attacks will conftantly employ them on the walls, or in repairing the breaches of our cannons j fatigue will overpower them, and they muft neceffarily yield ; for they will not have one foldier in referve. Be- hold, my friends, to what a fcene of glory I have brought you, to humble the pride of the infolent Chrijiians^ the fworn enemies of our Prophet, and to avenge the blood of your relations and friends, whofe bones are interred beneath the ground you fiand on. Hark ! methinks I hear them groaning with their wounds, and calling on us to purge the land of thefe impious barbarians, the murderers of the great Badur." When he had finifhed his fpcech, he fent a meflage to the Governor of the fortrefs, threatening, if he did not accept of the terms offered in it, to put every man in the garrifon to the fword. Mafcarenhas returned for anfwer, " That the Portuguefe were not accuftomed to receive laws at the point of the bayonet, and that he would agree to none different from thofe which already exifled relative to the garrifon of Dio. If Coge Sofar did not accept of thefe conditions, he muft accept of worfe, which (hould be written with the blood of his Janizaries." Don TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 265 Don John de Caftro, who at this time was at Goa, loft not a moment in preparing for the relief of the befieged ; he equipped nine fmall veffels for that expedition, in which he told his foldiers none were to be admitted but his fa- vourites. Then calling for his fon Ferdinand, who was but a private foldier, he addrefled him in the prefence of the troops, in the following manner : " I fend you with this relief to Dio, which is now be- fieged by an army of Turks ; and I charge you to do your duty as a foldier, otherwife I fhall no longer acknowledge you as a fon. Let no conlideration of family diftinclion betray you into error ; for remember that all men by birth are equal, and that you are not entitled to the leaft pre- eminence over any of your companions, but in proportion as you excel them in adts of valour and virtue. Let no man, therefore, furpafs you in obedience to the commands of your Captain, in zeal for your Sovereign, and love for your country. Go then, in the name of God, and purchafe honour for yourfelf, and either return to me vidlorious, or not at all." — In this collateral manner was Don John wont to animate his troops, and to curb the pride of the young Nobility. The fleet having arrived at Dio, the Governor received a very friendly letter from Don John, wherein, among other things, he mentioned how much he envied the glo- rious poft he .filled, a poft much more honourable than M M that 266 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. that of Governor of India. I fend you (faid he) with this relief my fon Ferdinand, who, I trull, will be furpaffed by none in affeftion to your perfon, and obedience to your orders : if the boy fhould ever return to his native country, with what exultation will he relate, among the vanities of old age, the honour of having ferved as a foldier under the brave Don John Mafceranhas. As foon as the troops were landed, the Governor aflem- bled his men in the parade, and addreffed them thus : " Behold, my brethren, thefe Turks and Janizaries, who vainly attempt to recover the honour they have loft in the firft iiege againft this fortrefs ; but thefe are not more confiderable than thofe who were vanquiflied, ncM- we lefs than the vanquifliers. What! have thofe brave Portuguefe who conquered them carried every fame into the grave, and left us none to tranfmit to pofterity ? No, my bre- thren, let us convince the world that we are not lefs brave than they. We have not failed five thoufand leagues to become flaves to infidels, and to tarnifh the renown of our country. We want for nothing : our provifion and am- munition will hold out until fuccour arrives ; and though at this feafon the feas are difficult to encounter, yet have we a Don John de Caftro, who, I pledge myfelf, will make his way through the waves, with his fword in his mouth, to come to our affiftance. If any thing could in- fpire men with true courage, it is the glorious caufe in which we are engaged ; the honour and intereft of our King TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 267 King and country, our property, our lives, and what is ftill more dear to us, our holy religion. Let every iinew then be exerted againft that hord of barbarians that would rob us of all thefe invaluable confiderations, and we can- not fail to be vidlorious if we are unanimous ; for though our number is but fmall, our power is great, for the God of vidlories aflifts us." By this and other well timed difcourfes, Don John Mafceranhas fo animated his men, that he performed prodigies of valour during the eight months that he fuftained this defperate iiege. At length Don John de Caftro arrived, and brought with him all the Portuguefe forces he could colled in Afia. The troops of the garri- fon now amounted to about four thoufand, including fea- men and auxiliaries ; with thefe he refolved immediately to terminate the fiege. On the evening previous to his making the attack, he diftributed his army into four columns, giving the com- mand of one to Don John Mafceranhas, another to his eldeft fon, Don Alvares de Caftro, a tried veteran ; Don Manuel de Lima led the third, and the fourth he referved for himfelf. Next morning, at break of day, he ordered a public mafs to be celebrated in the midft of the parade, at which he himfelf, and the greateft part of the garrifon, received the facrament. This folemn fervice being over, he addreffed the men in an animated fpeech : and to convince M M 2 them iSB TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. them that there was no alternative but death if they did not conquer, he commanded the gates of the fortrefs to be taken down and burnt. After this every man refumed his poft : the fignal being given, they fallied out, fword in hand, and completely routed the enemy. Five thou- land Moors' are faid to have perifhed in this day's engage- ment, together with Rama9aon their General, and feveral other Moors of diflindion. Coge Sofar, the father of Rama9aon, had been killed fome time before, as was alfo Juxarcaon. Another General of the fame name was taken prifoner, together with iix hundred men. Forty pieces of cannon, and feveral ftands of colours, alfo fell into the hands of the vidlors, befidcs a confiderable treafure found by the foldiers in the town contiguous to the fortrefs which was delivered up to plunder. We fhould not forget to mention a circumllance, which, in a great degree, contributed to forward the above victory. During the engagement. Father Cafal, the chaplain of the garrifon, carried a crucifix on the point of a fpear, with which he appeared wherever the combat was moft obfti- nate, animating the men. It happened that the column under Alvares de Caflro was overpowered, and thrown into diforder, and all his entreaty to rally them was in vain. The Prieft, however, effefted what the General could not; he ihewed them the crucifix which a weapon had ftruck and thrown into a reclined pofture, exclaiming, at the fame iim€,facn/ege, facn'Iege. Oh! foldiers of Chrifi^ re^ 2 vengQ TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 269 venge the facrilege ! on which the fcattered foldiers, ani- mated with an enthufiaftic rage, advanced to the charge, and determined the battle. In confequence of this important vidlory, the Portuguefe poffeflions in India were fecured for the prefentj but Don John, who never left aay thing to chance which he could effect by lorefight, refolved to follow up the advantage he had recently obtained without lofing a moment. In the firft place, he fet about rebuilding, upon a new con- flrudlion, the garrifon of Dio, as the old one had been nearly demolifhed by the enemies cannon ; but this objedt was not to- be accompliflied without money, and the trea- fury was quite exhaufted ; as to himfelf, he had no- thing belides his fword and helmet. Having in vain tried feveral expedients to raife fupplies, he at length thought of one, which may appear rather lingular at the prefent day : he refolved to depofite the bones of his beloved fon, Don Ferdinand, who had fallen in the fiege, for the fum he required. Accordingly he ordered the grave to be opened and the body raifed : he embraced it tenderly, faying, whilft the tears gufhed from his eyes, my fon, thou art dear to me even in death ; but my duty commands me to ftifle the feelings of nature, when my country's fafety is at ftake. As the corpfe fcafce exhibited any marks of excarnation, his officers prevailed on him to permit it to be re-interred ; and in lieu of it, he'fent a lock of his own muftaches to the inhabitants of Goa, as a fecurity for 27^ TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. for the fum of twenty thoufand pardaos. They hnmedi- ately advanced more than he required, as a free gift, and returned the honourable pledge by a fpecial meflenger, who was alfo charged with a letter highly exprefTive of the deep fenfe they entertained of his patriotifm. Some idea of this great man's character may be con- ceived from thefe faint iketches : to enumerate all the meritorious adls of his life, would exceed the limits we prefcribe to this work ; we fliall therefore pafs them over, and haften to a fcene that crowned his glorious career. The account of his vidory having reached the King his mafter, he appointed a day of folemn thankfgiving. The Pope and feveral Princes congratulated him on the occa- sion, and every one in the kingdom received the news with demonftrations of joy except the Queen ; fhe too had no objection to the vidory, but envied the honour of the vidlor, becaufe he was received in triumph at his happy return to Goa. This gave her Majefty fuch umbrage, that {he obferved, Don John de Cajiro conquers like a Chriftian, but triumphs like a Heathen. In his letters to his Majefty he folicited leave to return home, entreating, at the fame time, if he approved his fervices, that he would grant him two acres of ground, or rather rocks, which border on his little villa at Cintra. The latter the King granted, but refufed the former; afluring TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ayr affuring him of the high eftimation in which he held his fervices, and requefting him to continue his command three years longer. Hitherto Don John had only the title of Governor of India, but now the King falutes him, Vice King and Friend, He lived, however, but a fhort time to give luftre to thefe honours. He was attacked by a violent ficknefs, and expired in a few days in the arms of his confeffor, in the forty-eighth year of his age, and third of his adminiftration in India. A fhort time before his diflblution, he aflembled in his chamber the Magiftrates of Goa, and the different Officers of State, to whom he delivered up the government. Aftser which he addrefled them in the following fpeech :. ** I am almoft alhamed to tell you. Gentlemen, that the Viceroy of India, expiring with wounds and fatigues on this bed of ficknefs, is in want of the neceflaries which even a private foldier finds in an hofpital. You are fenfi- ble, that as long as there was an enemy to fubdue, I have not been fparing of toil or fatigue in every thing which tend to the glory of our King and country ; and now, that we have fubdued our foes, and eftabliihed an honour- able peace with all the powers of the Eaft, a worn out foldier, who has contributed fo often to your vidories, has fome claim to your regard. It is probable, that in a fhort time I fhall be no more ; and fhort as I am likely to exift, I have not wherewithal to fupport or nourifh me ; lo for 272 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. for I have laid out to the laft fhilling in relieving the wants of my brother foldiers, and have left nothing to relieve my own ; nay, not fo much as would buy a fowl for my dinner. I requeft, therefore, that you will provide a perfon of your own to provide a frugal maintenance for me out of the King s revenue. I alfo requeft, that you will order me a change of bed-linen, as I have not a fecond quilt to my bed." Then railing himfelf up, with the alliftance of his confelTor, the venerable Xavier, he laid his hand on the Gofpel, and folemnly fwore on it to the truth of what he had juft advanced ; and defired the Secretary of Goa to take minutes of it, and enter it on the journals of the Council of State,' in order that, if the fad was not found as he had ftated, his memory and , his poller ity might be branded with infamy. We fhall only obferve, that time evinced the truth of every word he uttered in his laft moments ; for all the money found in his cabinet did not exceed a vi7itefn\ that is, lefs than three half- pence. A few days before he expired, he ordered that his body fhould be interred in the Francifcan church at Goa, and tranflated from thence by the firft opportunity to the chapel belonging to his villa at Cintra. In all his adions lie never loft fight of this charming retreat, wherein he hoped one day to pafs the evening of life in ftudy and meditation, as appears by the letter he wrote after the iiege of Dio, to the Infante Don Luis, requefting he would intercede cc TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 273 intercede with the King for his recal. The Infante, in his affedionate reply, ufes this expreffion : *' After your " performance of the Royal will, I truft you will cover the tops of the rocks of Cintra with chapels and tro- phies of your vidories, and long enjoy them in pro- " found repofe." His remains are now repoiited in the Dominican convent at Bemfica near Li{bon, where his grandfon ere6ted a monument to his memory, with the following infcription : D. JOANNES DE CASTRO XX. PRO RELIGIONE IN UTRAQUE MAURITANIA STIPENDIIS FACTIS : NAVATA STRENUE OPERA THUNETANO BELLO : MARI RUBRO FELICIBUS ARMIS PENETRATO : DEBELLATIS INTER EUPHRATEM ET INDUM NATIONIBUS. GEDROSICO REGE, PERSIS, TURCIS UNOPRi^LIOFUSIS: SERVATO DIO, IMO REIPUB. REDDITO : DORMIT IN MAGNUM DIEM: NON SIBI, SED DEO TRIUMPHATOR: PUBLICIS LACRYMIS COMPOSITUS, PUBLICO SUMPTU PR^ PAUPERTATE FUNERATUS. OBIT OCT. ID. JUN. ANNO M.D.XLVIII. ^TATIS XLVIII. N N San/kreet 274 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Sanjkreet Infcription. This infcrlptional ftone is one of the trophies Don John de Caftro obtained in India : it is to be feen in hrs garden at Cintra. His Excellency Chevalier de Soufa, the pre- fent Envoy at the court of Sweden, informs me, that *' it was brought, with other antiquities, from India by "the Duke de Braganca, and delivered by him to the " heir of Don John de Caftro." Lafiteavi mentions it from Diogo de Couto. In the fame garden is another infcriptional ftone, the charafters of which are almoft entirely defaced by the weather. The upper part of it exhibits the emblems of the Sun and Moon ; and the reprefentation of a man ftruggling with a rampant beaft is fculptured in bas relief on the foot of it. There is alfo a decapitated centaur of tolerable workmanfhip ftanding on a pedeftal near thefe infcriptional ftones, which are all the Afiatic antiquities that remain here at prefent. Several travellers, who have vifited Portugal from time to time, are faid to have copied fome of the characters of this Sanfkreet Infcription, or taken impreilions of a few of them on plafter of Paris or wax. And the late Reve- rend Mr. Allen, formerly Chaplain to the Britifh faftory at Lifbon, copied the two extreme lines and middle one. 13 This, TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 275 This, I am informed, was the greatcfl progrefs made in tranfcribing it fmce it arrived in Portugal, (which appears. to be about the year one thoiifand five hundred and fixty- fix,) until I made the copy hereunto amiexed, in one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-nine. Vide Plate XIII. To the antiquary, a jfhort account of the manner in which it has been copied may not be unacceptable ; the procefs was very fimple. In the firfl: place, I prepared as many ftrips of paper as there are lines in the whole ; to wit, lixty-fix ; on each of which were drawn two parallel lines, leaving a fpace between, equal to the height of the letters. Thefe ftrips being placed, one after the other, immedi- ately under the lines, and faftcned with wax at each end ; the letters then were drawn on them with a black lead pencil, exad:ly under the correfponding ones of the pro- totype. There are many other ways, I am aware, of copying infcriptions of this kind, fome of which are very expeditious ; but the neceftary apparatus for that purpofe I had not at hand ; and I doubt, on the whole, if there be any procefs lefs fubjed: to error than the above. The charadiers are all funk, beautifully cut, and in ex- cellent prefervation ; each is two-fifths of an inch in height ; the fpace between each line is one-fourth of an inch. In the copy fubjoined are preferved the proportions of the original, both in the detail and general diftribution. N N 2 The 276 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. The defedls obferved in the ftone are not, for the moft part, owing to the natural decays of time, but to accidents it received, perhaps, in the carriage ; for it is very hard, being of the bafaltes fpecies, and of a blackifh hue. Some imagine that the face of it was formerly gilt, and I have noticed in one or two places fome traces that appeared to juftify the conjecture. Hitherto the language in which it is written has been confidered as Hindoo, and the meaning remained an enig- ma, though fome attempts to afcertain it. has been made by the three lines before mentioned, that were copied bv the Reverend Mr. Allen. Some account of thefe is faid to have been publifhed by a ProfeiTor of Oriental languages in Germany. The information, however, I have received on this head is too imperfed: to lay before the public. I fhall therefore take no further notice of it, fince it is ma- nifeft that very little or nothing to the purpofe could pof- libly be deduced from fo fmall and disjointed a portion of the whole. I am happy, at length, to be enabled to lay before the public the purport of this curious infcription, which has eluded the refearches, not only of the Portu- guefe, but of all the literati of Europe for upwards of two hundred years paft. And for this I am indebted to the pen of the learned and ingenious Mr. Wilkins, whofe extenfive knowledge of Oriental literature is a lafting ho- nour to his country. I fhould not omit this opportunity 4 of TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 277 of acknowledging my obligations to him for the polite manner in which he undertook this troublefome tafk ; induced by no other motive than that of gratifying public curiojQty. Of the difficulty of making a complete tranflation, the dilapidations reprefented in the copy are not the only im- pediments. Some miitakes, perhaps, might have occurred on my part in tranfcribing it, that renders the interpreta- tion ot the remainder not very eafy. Mr. Wilkins has judicioufly pointed out the probability of fuch miftakes ; as may be inferred from his letter; of which we prefent a copy. S I R,. Hawkhurft, Kent, July 20Ch, 1793. I have beftowed no little labour to decipher the infcrip- tion ; and how much of it has been in vain, you may judge from a perufal of the few fheets of memorandums which accompany this ; and which, though fufficient to determine the queftion concerning the intention of it, will not be fo acceptable as a complete tranflation ; to which there were many infuperable obftrudlions, befides thofe which are obvious : fome of which I will take the liberty to mention. The characters JTy.^m^cr. o^a-v^. fj~ir;^^u are perpetually in the place of one another, as are alfc ^q/".^^/, ^ ^^ ; ^^. ^^- ^ ,^ ^^^^ ; "^i/^f^/i^ &c. This cannot but occalion very great confufion. I find alfo the fingle. dot ° and the double ditto; zy8 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ditto o very often omitted ; both of which are of great importance in Sanjkreet. To the memorandums I have annexed my rough Notes refpedling the meafure of each verfe. The proper name for the Infcription is Safa?ta, which figniiies an Ordinance. It is the term given to it in the inflrument itfelf. I remain, SIR, Your moft obedient humble Servant, C. WILKINS. To yavies Murphy^ Efq. London. Memorandums TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 279 Memorandums of a?i Inscription in the Sanjkreet lan- guage and Deva-Nagaree CharaEler. Tranflated by Charles Wiikins, Efq. Reverence to the God Seeva. Verfe i. The meaning very obfcure. 2. Very enigmatical. — A certain Prince difpenfes blefTings day and night. 3. Eulogy of the perfon whofe name appears in the next verfe. States, that he enjoyed riches and happinefe through the blcfling of the God Sceva^ who is here called Kapardce ; that his good fortune was pleafing to the God with the fingle tufk, the good of the three regions of the world, the offspring of the enemy of the incorporeal divinity by whom he was conduced. (Ga/ie/a, the God of Prudence and Policy, the fon of Sceva, (Time,) the enemy of the God of Love.) 4. Part of this verfe unintelligible. — ^A perfon of the name of Vee/wa Malla is reprefented as the jewel of the diadem of Kings, and as a vidtorious King, giving luftre to the race of Oolookya. His adminiftration flowed in a hundred endlefs ftreams from the prime ellence of the refervoir of felf-reftraint. 5. Part illegible. Still relates to Vccfwa Malla^ and fomething about pulling up the root of the tree of plenty, not by the thunderbolt, but by means of a certain perfon of the houfehold of the military order, whole name was Raja- nar'iyaua. 6. The Lord Vedya Natha, who adorns the w^hole earth, and whofe mightinefs fhews compafiion tor the p?jns and troubles with which flae is furrounded, placed in him a - portion of his own fpirit. Second hemiftic unintel- ligible. Verfe 28o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Verfe 7. He had a wife, whofe title was Nagalla Devee, with a form like the Goddefs Sree, by whom the Raja had children, who were the confufion of his enemies. 8. The meaning of this verfe rather obfcure. Bhooja Pratapa^ the younger brother of Pratapa-Malla^ got poflefTion of the government by force. 9. In the firfl hemiftic Veefwa Malla places the fon of Pratapa Malla in his ftead. — The fecond part of this verfe is im- perfedl. — Contains fomething about Veefwa Malla s par- taking of holy food, with the immortal water which bears the name of his wife. 10. A very obfcure verfe, and, in fome places, imperfedl. Arjoona^ who is defcribed a youth of extraordinary abi- lities, is called Arjoo7ia Deva. 11. In his hand he bore the mark of a wheel, and was a pro- tedor of his people. A difficult verfe. 12. His offspring, Saranga Deva^ defeats the chiefs of Goojara^ who are reprefented as overcome with the pride of wealth. 13. He is defcribed as having been victorious in a battle be- tween the Yadava and Malava chiefs, and is compared to the eagle of Veejhnoo (which, in the fable of the elephant and tortoife flruggling for fuperiority, came down and carried them both away). 14. His fon Nakoolee, like a divinity, comes from above to fhew favour to the human race : 1 5. And to fhew favour to the race of Oolookya^ who, for a long time, had lain under a father's curfe. 16. Pour infpired perfons, whofe names were Koofeeka^ ^^^^'SSJ^^y Karoojlia, and Matreya^ defcend upon the earth, for the purpofe of performing certain ceremonies called Pafoo- pata-vrata^ and that they were his attendants, jjy. The meaning rather obfcure. — Being rendered humble by fome holy man, he was an ornament to the world which as watered by four feas. — Some fyllables wanting in the firft foot. Verfe lyii (a9 (3 gj ^ ^ ^y iT;SH SB 3 a . __^ iO^ ^ f^- 1^ S S3 ^^ ^ ;4a a3 ^^ ^ 5iJ g ^ m (2H £] ^ ^ ^n^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ rOJ ^ "'• ^^ :-: id CO 3J ^ in S-J 3 S ^ a 3 ^ 3 rN ^ ^ 5^? ^ 3 nJ 5i ?c ^. 3 ^3 en ^ ^^ :d B ^- ■^ 2^^, a^ 70 3 3 ^ 3 (JJ ^fiu ^ ^ on] ^. ^ j;^] ^(iaj g ;a] g.Sr n. i^ g 3 S^a^^ gig 3 A3 P2 ^a ^i ^^ ^-^ i ^ ^1 a ^ Si ^fi ^^ ^ 22J pj, ;s] g uu ^ ^ 7^ p^i 32] ?^^ •fl ,3 ^ UQ] ^ ^ 3 ^ 3 CS ^ S P^ AI '^ a Al -^ rCU ^'73 Cd ^ ni ^ ^ ^ aT^ -' ^ ^ S :a»£5Ar jil X llisiliiiii|il|i ,n i=il"r; ^ =^ su ;^ 53 :Ij ro ail 't;^ e-! 3 a Jd ^ - - =^ AJ , 3 2iJ ffl 23 3 G J5i :sj ^ -J 31 S a S a S r^ Si ^ 11 11 1 ^ IIP Si ru ]3 ^ 3 ^ 53 (Si ^•3 Tec a A4 II 2^ ^S ^^ S^'^ 2 5 ^'^ ^ 3 'M ^ -^ SI i^ a irg S3 ;3 3 ^ 3J S ny Sf^ a SJ ^ B ^ gpP^ g g 21^* 3 iJ ^ ililililliiililiitiiii S a i §^ S3 aTB S ^ SSS'g 3^ y 3 ^ 33 a ^ gl ^i. ;ia ju] 5! 'SDt-t ■« ?=, JU ==■ Ji -M -M *^ 51 S S3' — ^ vrii-o ^ :^ g Z] S>ili ^ S ^ S ^ S r3 ^ 2>33 ;5d 4LI t£U ^ x3a AiST^ A3-2^ ^ ^a ^ ^ ^ ^ ^• ;^ id 3 ^iJ /y p3 JJ 5^j.3 X J g AJ ^-2' ^-X;: 3j ±a a ia 3^ 3^ -=^ 3'.£]f}\^^^5 ^g 3 t3 CX S 5 £J :5J = iluu£j =3 'ti -=J p STS :^ ^ ^ ou co*,7H ,31 ^ ^ ^ — -.^ ^ ^ a g-^. =L] ^''^, ^ ' — '13 Oil ^ ■;« -^ -M a ^ :m ^ ^^-B j^ f* ^ -^ 3 3 a -^ H a S :^5i ^S3 ^^ ai :5 ^ E £^^. ^ ex Ckj 3^ ^1 S3 g :2(j] ^ i^£B tAI :iiii.^ ^ T^ '•J •t^, tt; cm rn nw A3-iAl =rl S ;^ ^ ^O ^ joj ;^ oc (\II1 ofil 3,^S ^ £J ^ ^ 3r53 == ^ r^ g sa-a ^ ^ ^ 3 igiifiiii|ililliiiii|ii^-"' ^^ ^ ^ a X3sa -u 4^ -r ,^1-1 -u , ; *^r7^,^^jnj =±1 -"J •»! ui3 03 =^ ^ 5j 'El^ 33 uD •^ 7;i 4j I J^ xH ,jil C3 C3 ex a rJ ,23 3 ^, 23 2^ iS-^ -> ^ r; -^ ^ mIoi ^ ^™ 3 2^^^ s,a ^ nS 3 :;« "^pi^ sm 5^3 3^=L^:d S^3 S^ i ^^ ^ 3 ^ ^ ^ ^ ST^'S ^ on oi ^ aj ai 3^29 3 ^ 5 M o: 3 ii^ 3 3 :^ S 'fl ^ ^^ |>^ § 5^ S ^-p^ g § I :^ s^ aj g I S I 3^5^ ^ ^ ^ 3" ^3 ru'jiLVu :ij ^ 5_j j^j 3S cm ^ 3 M-Si.g ari j^ iid uii 7^ ST -^ "■ 3 5^ 3=g S ^ 3 1 <^^i'iS^^ ■^ 5?::h =3 ^ ^ s '^^ v'^:;^ ^i^ ii ^ ^f i i ^ Mt | Its § i i || a__] ^ i^ • TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 281 Verfe iS. This verfe is alfo defe<3:ive and obfcure. — From a certain family, ftated to have been favoured by thofe four holy men, proceeded the race of Garggeya, a generation of boundlefs minds. 19. The firft hemiftic ftates, that a perfon of the name of Karteeka-rafee was the deliverer of the family of Garggeya^ and chief of the place. The fecond hemiftic is imper- fect. 20. Lnperfed and very unintelligible. Valmecherafce feems to be here mentioned as the fucceflbr of Kartecka-rcifce. 21. The Prince is herein likened to the God Treepoormtaka, and certain great men to other immortals; and it is ftated that this is recorded upon a ftone. 22. Treepoorantaka is reprefented as the d'lfciple^ or (rather per- haps) the fucceflbr of Vcihneekcercifec. — The gi'eateft part of this verfe is very obfcure. 23. Unintelligible. « 24. Defedive. — Relates to the performance of a pilgrimage. 25. Ditto. ditto ditto 26. Ditto. ditto ditto 27. Ditto. ditto ditto 28. Ditto. ditto ditto 29. Ditto. ditto ditto ?o. He meditates on the goodnefs of the God Rama, and vlfits Lanka, and the dike or bridge fuppofcd to have been conftruded during the wars of Rama and Ravafia, be- tween the ifland of Ceylon and the continent. 31. Very intricate. — Vifits fome other holy place. 32. Viiits the river Sarafwatee and Frayaga. ■^■T^. Vifits the city of the God who bears a crefcent, which he adorns. (Banaris.) 34. The illuftrious Ganda Vreehafpatce, having defigned it by means of a Brahman, built a magnificent place : 2^. Judging, that through the means of the purity of his adions, he fhould achieve the greateft degree of renown, he here rejoiced. Rather obfcure. o o Verfe 282 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Vcrfe ;^6. Very imperfedl and obfcure. It ftates, that the illuftrious Treepoorantaka is alfo the refledion of the jewel of the diadem of the race of heaven, &c. &c. 3". Obfcure. — He beflowed fplendid gifts upon feme diftreffed perfon. 38. Very intricate. — States that Rama, which means either \\\% wife or his fortune, was the ornament of the world. 39. Very enigmatical. From whofe fplendid virtues the great men, who delight to fport in the atoms which float in the beams of light ilTuing f^om the beauty of the leaf of the fleepy Ketakec of the diadem of the Goddefs Saraf- nvatee, went to adorn the females of the eight points. 40. By which wife man (meaning 'Treepoorantaka) were founded five temples for burnt-offerings, called Ayatanns^ to the North of the Ma?tdapa (Sarai) of the Ayatana of Some- fwara^ near the old bell-houfe of Sree Bhajee^ and under the prote£lion of the five glories of Sree Kanta. 41. The man to whom belongs the exceffive magnificence of great minds, who for the happinefs of the mother Lady of Malhana *, placed there the Lord of Malhana. ^2. The wife man, whofe aftions are thofe of the firft age, who there conftrudted an Ayatana for the hufband of Ooma, by name Gandavreehafpatee. 43. Who, being the renown of great men, for the happinefs of Oonia the wife of Vreehafpatee, fet up the hufband of Ooma. 44. Here the hufband of Rama, called the Lord Treepoorantaka Ramefwara^ even by his own name, by the favourite name of the proteftor of the beautiful Trecpoorajiteeka. 45. Who, being one whofe mind was fixed on him on whofe diadem is a crelcent, placed in the. midfl of the five Ayatanas, the Goddefs Sarafwatee, the God who con- du£teth to the accomplifhment of our wiflies, (Ganefa,) and (fome others whofe names are not eafily to be made out.) * Perhaps the name of the place. Verfc TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 283 All thefe verfes relate to a variety of duties to be per- formed in the temples, to the offerings ordained to be made, and to the digging of refervoirs for obla- tions, &c. &c. Verfe 46. Seems very incorre£t. Who conflruded a pillar without the North gate of the place. 47. A perfon of the name of Jagannatha Kolanee appointed to clean the Gods every day. 48. 49. 50- 51- 52. S3- 54- 55- 56. 57- 58. 59- 60. 61. 62. 63. 64. 66. 67. 68. 69. 70. He gave an ^yatana for the ufe of the Chatoorjatakapata, becaufe a gate had been broken, and had tumbled down. 71. He founded this holy place, and fet up this Scifana (ordi- nance) with his own well-earned wealth. 72. He built the pleafant houfe of Sree in the midft of the Ayativia, and fet up a table of his own divine genealogy, for the glory of the illuflrious Ganda-ranaka-vrehafpatee^ and Saranga Bhoopatee. 002 Verfe 284 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Vcrfe 73. A long laboured verfe of four feet of fourteen fyllables each, totally unintelligible. 74. Ditto ditto. 75. Ditto ditto. 76. Ditto ditto. 77. In the year of the Mra. of Sree Veekranm 1343, 5th of the bright half of the Moon in the month of Magha *. The great feaft of the folemnities of the Lcenga (Priapus) in the aflembly. Memorandum of the kinds of Verfe the Safana is compofed in. Verfe i. A long verfe of four feet, called Arya. a. Four feet of fourteen fyllables each, called Vafanta-teelakam^ in this form : w ;o uui Diivies in the Sen:!. Plate XVI M.i,.i'i.LiA. cm, 'PlTA._c\XXXSXX[.I'ff- Q.L,,y.MAR!lTE.Ef. Mfffi. / ,^1 '5 .. Vi M-^Ti^LI&iii:;; .i,„;!ii«H^ ,-liillllBrllillllSl|li«ll|ll!!ll|l«lk|!lWhlSr,!,!iill«iciliOlli«i;iilJ| #»to^s . 1 ^IVMIA- \ I.IBERTO.,^Jl1 RETTTI.PO H.S.E.S.T.TX. i iiiiiii^^ I.,.YELlO,x\>^iEL o yiAFCPH.FE. ¥io(i;;;ii! Sii Q, iKiJiOAio.M.vrt':uvf) J PtU>li:th€dMaif i^'i-jqct. Ini Cadfll and Dnyks in fin Sound TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 301 fry, and in fome parts of the Eaft, there were alfo ftones of this kind, vvhich, if tied to the bodies of living perfons, would, in the fame manner, confume their flefh." Sir John HilFs TranJIatio?i of 'Theophj'ajlus Hijlory of Stones ,^ page 23. et feq. /;; note. Plate XV. A. Is- another monument of the fame kind before-mentioned, C. Plate XIV. B and C. Roman infcriptional ftones. D. An ancient infcriptional flone of the Chriftian aera. The epitaph which it bears is written in all the fimplicity of the apoflolic ages. Here lies Paul^ the fervant of God, who lived 51 years. He refled in peace on the third day of the ides of March, Era 582. Plate XVI. The five infcriptional ftones reprefented in rhis Plate are alfo in the Bifhop of Beja's colledion, except the one marked D, which is in the wall of the praqa of the city of Beja. Several other Roman fragments have been fonnd in the excavation above mentioned, among which was a mutilated ftatue feated on a throne, fuppofed to. have reprefented the Goddefs Sybilla. The body of it is entire, but wants the head and armiS ; what remains of it, nevertbelefs, is very valuable, as the proportions of the members, the form of the drapery, and the delicacy of the fculptur^, clearly evince that it was executed when the arts were at their zenith. Near this ftatue were found, in 302 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. in the fame cave, a hand holding a patera, and a buft, which is faid to reprcfent Auguftus Ca^far. Having taken fketches of the moft remarkable objects in this city and its environs, I fet out with a guide and a mule for Evora, a city about twelve leagues diftant from the former. As we could find no proper accommodation on the road, I refolved to reach Evora that night ; there- fore I gave the mule to the guide, who was an old man, and walked after him the greater part of the journey. At eleven o'clock at nio-ht wc reached Evora. This city is fituated in the middle of the province Alenteju, upon an eminence ; fur rounded by a fine level country, which produces corn, wine, and oil. It is called in Latin Ebora, Some writers think that Pto- lemy alludes to it when he writes Ebura^ the name of a city in the province of Andalufia. The Spanifh anti- quarians fay Evora was firft built by the Celti, about feven hundred and filty-nine years before the birth of Chrift. Pliny and others affirm, that it was inhabited by the Gauls, Phoenicians, and Perfians. Quintus Sertorius, the cele- brated Roman Captain, made himfelf mafler of it about eighty years before Chrift, and fecured it with walls, for- tifications, and fubterraneous ways \ he alfo ornamented it TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 305 if- with fevcral public buildings, fome of which cxift to this day. Julius Ciefar was the next that fubdued Evora ; he made it a municipal town, and gav^e it the name of Liberalitas yulia. The Moors took pofTeflion of it in the year feven hundred and fifteen. It is not fo large as Oporto, though confidered as the fecond city in the kingdom. The number of its inhabitants are computed at twenty thoufand, among whom are many families of difl:in<5lion. It contains a college and a tribunal of inqui- fition. 'J he members of the latter may be confidered as holding (inecure places ; for the power of this tribunal is greatly fallen, and liktly never more to rife again. AquediiSi of ^Ser tortus, Plate XV IL Among the public buildings raifed here by Quintus Sertorius, there exifts a noble Aquedudl in good preferva- tion; the annexed View of it was taken about a mile and half to the North of the city. The piers are nine feet bro.id, by four feet and a half thick ; the arched fpace between is thirteen feet fix inches, which is equal to the breadth and thicknefs of each pier added together. At intervals buttrefi'es are fuperadded to the piers, the better to fecure the arcuaticn. The whole is formed of irregular ftone, except the arches, which are of brick. From J04 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. From the labour and expence required in building Aquedu£ls of this kind, many people have been led to conclude, that the ancients were unacquainted with the art of conveying water through unequal grounds by any other- means, on account, as it is fuppofed, of their ignorance that water conveyed in tubes attained the level of its pri- mitive fource. Vitruvius, however, clearly fliews the con- trary: in b. viii. c. 7. he gives excellent rules for convey- ing water in tubes ; rules which, if properly attended to, would prevent many blunders, in fimilar operations, among us. Pliny alfo, in b. xxxi. c. 6, exprefsly mentions, that the ancients frequently conveyed water in this manner. It is a miftaken notion then, to fuppofe that they were ignorant of the principles of hydraulics ; becaufe they generally conveyed water in aqueduds, in preference to pipes- Plate XVIII, is a perfpedive reprefentation of a caf- tellum, which is ereded over the above Aquedudl at its termination in the city. In the centre of it is a fmall refervoir, from whence tubes are conveyed to the different fountains and ciftcrns, agreeably to what Vitruvius re- commends, b. viii. c. 7. The plan of this caflellum is circular ; its greatefl dia- meter is twelve tect fix inches, independent of the fur- lounding columns, which are eight in number, of the Ionic Plale XVm 1 nn/S'-: 4 V1E>V0F, THE CASTMLLUM OF Q.SERTOMIUS a^EVORA , TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 5^5 Ionic Order. In each intercolumniation is a niche, with a ftriated head ; an aperture is formed in one of them to give accefs to the infide of the ftruclure. The fecond ftory is decorated with Ionic pilafters, between which are apertures for ventilation j the top is crowned with an hemifpherical dome. What appear fingular in this antique monument, are the acrotoires and deprefled parapet over the entablature oi the columns. It is probable that each of thefe acro- toires was formerly crowned with a vafe : the remains of one is ftill vifible, as cxprefTed in the View ; and the fragment of a pedeftal to be fpen in one of the niches, induces me to fuppofe that each of thefe alfo was decorated with a vafe. The whole is conftru6led of brick, incruftated with cement, of fo hard ana durable a fubftance, that few parts of it appear to have failed by the natural decays of time. Confidering it was built feventy years before the Chriftian sera, we cannot but admire how fuch an apparently delicate ftrudure has refifted the accumulated injuries of time. Upon the whole, it may be juflly confidered one of the bed preferved and mofi: beautiful pieces of an- cient architedlure in exiftence. Here we have a flriking inftance of what a good archi- ted is capable of effeding with the meaneft materials. RR Of J 06 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Of its dimenfions, nothing can be more elegant than this caftellum, though formed of brick and cement. The Greeks had many buildings conftrufted of the like materials * ; and we find in Vitruvius, b. ii. c. 3. that the Romans alfo frequently built with bricks, as the remains of their edifices evince to this day. Palladio has left us a fine fpecimen of this mode of building in an odlaftile portico at Venice; the columns of which are thirty-five feet high, formed of bricks that were caft in circular moulds, and cut into quadr.mts before they were baked. From thefe, and many other examples that we could refer to, of elegant buildings conftriif9-ed of brick, it appears evident that the meannefs of our edifices, proceeds not from want of ma- terials, but architeds ; for there is no country^ however barren, but affords better materials than artifts. Temple of Dla7ia. Plate XIX. This Plate exhibits a view of another ftruflure, built by Sertorius, faid to be the remains of a Temple dedicated to Diana. The front of it prefents an hexaftyle in the Corinthian Order ; the diftribution of which appears to be pycnojlylos ; for the intercolumniation is exadlly one dia- meter and a half, like that of the Temple of the deified Julius, and of the Temple of Venus in Caefar's forum, mentioned by Vitruvius, b. iii. c. 3. * Vide Reptarqutt fur PArchiunure des jSucientf par M. Winchlmann, The ^ TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 307 The diameter of the columns is three feet four inches. The bafe is Attic, in height a fe mi-diameter -of the co- lumn, or twenty inches, including the upper liftle. The fhafts are cut into channels and fillets ; each channel is fix inches and a half broad, and a femi-circle in depth j the number of channels in each column is but fixteen. Vitruvius afligns twenty-four channels to the Corinthian column, yet the appearance of thefe ftris is not unpleafing. For proportion and delicacy of fculpture the capitals are much to be admired. The entablature is entirely deftroyed, except part of the firft facia of the architrave ; the reft of the work is in a degree of prefervation fcarcely credible for a monu- ment of its age. For this it is indebted to the durability of the materials, which is a fpecies of granite fomewhat afperous, but exceedingly hard. The rubble-work in the front and fides is evidently Moorifque, as may be inferred from the pinnacles with which it is crowned. At one fide of the hexaftyle are five columns, including the angular one ; at the other, I could difcover but three. From thefe and the columns of the front we may infer that it had been a Peripteral Temple ; for, according to Vi- truvius, b, iii. c. I. Temples of this kind had i\x columns in the front, and as many in the pojricus ; the flanks had eleven each, including the angular columns, and a fpace R R 2 equal 3o8 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. equal to an intercolumn was left at every fide between the furrounding columns and the cell or body of the Temple. The elegance difplayed in the remains' of this Temple, have led many to conjedure that the archited: had been a Greek, from a fuppoHtion that Rome at the time of Ser- torius had not artifts competent to deiign and execute fo polifhed a fabric. My firft knowledge of it was derived from Don Ignacia de Manique^ the Intendant General of Lifbon. In point of antiquity, as well as elegance, it is the moft eftimable ftru6lure in Portugal, yet I am forry to add, that the flate of negled: in which it is left re- dounds little to the honour or difcernment of the people of Evora. It is now converted into the meaneft of offices — a meat-fhambles. In this refpedt, however, it may be faid to have fome affinity to its former deftination ; for then it flowed with the blood of vidims, which were facrificed to appeafe the Goddefs Diana ; whereas the like tragedies are now performed in it to appeafe hungry mortals. Indeed, it appears to have been perpetually deftined for a theatre of tragic exhibitions. Several ancient infcriptional floncs have been found from time to time in this city and its environs, of which there are nine to be feen in an old wall contiguous to the prifon, with two modern ones. Copies of thefe infcriptions may 4 be natoXX D li!lllllll!lllllllll!'l!illl!lll!', L^ ^!M!!M M^^!M^M ^ ii[in r i Hi l| T i i ii |iiiw i " iii ""il»'.iJ 'i Hi i im"H 'i [miiiiliiiiiiiililliiniiiiirinip M ;jK'.i I-; '3r^P¥B|LIC , MA7^]IC,EpS-^'l'ILIIx\:r 1 ■ :vi . v J-; B Ji'r::-:y:^ tV-wm -Wr iM'il:i.'.!iinii;i ^.|iih.ni:uiiiiii;iiiiii|hi;iiiniilli i.iiiililiilllliiM'ilii'.lLlli M[lii|limliiiiiiiiiiiiiuiii|i|iiilili||)ll SAETE.i5;i;'iKrcoi;^ MITaTE /DOMWS Q , SERTOEI COM^ETAK B „ 3 7vT)0S- WN. BOKArE.IDO MESTICA. EHVSET ^ . SEKTOR , HEMJ^IES Q . SEKTKK .CEPALO I, IBERTEI pEiMillMlllMMJiiMJJiMi M'lilli Hi!!;'ilii!r!l!'"'''!Iili:';:' ONTRA ,YIEIAT j'" ,VOLNERIB,SOPI« t?VM , IMP,€LAVli MA'PEOsfMOR ilTIS-LVS!' TANI.OPEIiASEliy !»^]RAiai|gIVi.^-WS PAVCO S » "^VP^^CV'B! ES.MA|:STVS«OBIT QVIA-BENE MER K . GRATmirONEETYo Mlill PiMi/hcd Mui i^yijS.bu CadcU amt Davies in thrStnmd y HateXKl MANIJLIA aJVl.Po MAXWVIA o AN XII H. S,EoS,ToTJ., CVIBIVS . TAl^CI TWS . COGNATAE SVAEo F o C o C . ANTOI^D . C . F, FLA ^ VINO . T'l, viRo , IVN . HA S T o I, _K i;, n, AVG„TORQ . A^R oETo AW .JDITL, OB.VIRT. BONATO'.ITN, VEKECVN ^ BA . FL, AM.PEKP, M¥K.EBOE MATEK , F . C , ^ ESgilieSSlSiE ;: !^^ LIB,IV]L»EBORA. lEoMv-N.EBERAEf ATEM , EX .JD . B .» . '7S.DEBCATI0 x^' E o VEMERI . GBKE T&I® .DOKTM.MA TRONAE . CESTITM. TVlLERVTs^T. alilll Njilillliniiiiliiiiiiiii I iiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiIiiiinT p iiniinTOmiiiiim^^ a ntB n ii it inii » iiiii M i mi n H tii H iiriii iij i w» i m» imi M i »u i Hj ii » « w qwilT u TiWiniir n ir m » mi iwii i iB » i w n» Ml^ ^ I « O e M OBoPVLSOS. A ,Q o SERTOR METEL.ADQo POMPE.I-^^N. DONACEoCORONA.ETSCEP TRoEXoARG , MVNVS^BTVLIX IFT.A:MIN'. phi ALA o C AlEATAM. ;| TKKRODTLIS « COEK'AM.B'D^ E te.ililiiiii„'jiui)i..!";]i,:niiiiiii iiiiiiiiiiiiii:iiiiiliiiniilii:iK[iiil[iiiiliiljl|Hlinilhiillllllliil 3 iili!i!i;ii):!;iiil!i:!!i'!';i'':i:'>Taw*^ « V©L,^S3||^AE COH, I . G , R o SEX-i PROVOC o YICTORIo DOK. DOFATOoAB IMPERHgill . HAST ' rim . ni.vExiL. mi» OBSID^KI mS.IN.RESoPoS.FVNCiw EBORENS CIVIoOPT IRITA.EIVS'IN . I^IVNir o MARMOR BASI. AENE S?» = D ritl'/iji/n\i Mtu/r)'i^ip./>i/ CuM/ ti/iif n.fvus in the Slmnd < y Plate XXII PAVJilL L O . AKl) . Q) % J[])i*£''ORVM . ET . AVf-f''...^' .,||fiJlAEF„ COH., I :/ ■>! ' ytaTTONV\iij{W L Kt; . if; ., , : ' ^ B : f AVSAS,TTil31vW"KS0.y'^'Ki ' iiMlniiiuiiiiiMlil ^BLICE \:^.wov3M f'":: ■ TjiiJT' (i?s)iii(Hiii«;iiiiiii)iii(ja!/!iiii)iiiiiia«"iiiiiii«"^-iis!tiiH S«9WI i lOA^MvS ' lUrEVSlTAM- mBJAE°ET'IN - A'FRICA » REX , '• '■, i , i' ■ I ' U VM ■ \ QVA^-AFGENTEAE'IIVCTA^- A • Q- , C)EJ'.:rUlliO ' .-\i'N " l.X.XA^» ANTE«B - CHRlSTVM^NAT^TVI' : EXTI^NTTA-'M • B.\RBi\RIE'ET-ANTIO\lTATE-FYTVDE !■ \'^i • .DEAroElTNM " NOYA - FO]RMA»LIBERALMMPEN. .S.; . MAIOKI • AQVARAAl-COPEi » ADIEC1A«XVII MIL- F,AS^' • DVC TVI -YERVS ° P' P 'IN. VRBEM»REDYXIT. ANN " SOEVTIS.MDXXM- lliulllililjl..!'' 'OLlM'DFy' ''''*''""*'*''*'''**'*''*'''WMiil55*'"''' ■"""■''"'''"'"''!*B"'''!'^''"'i jrj!lV!ii|nNli||ir*»'«*l«*l'J«i'J1****'*'^S'|l«JlilMII| PHILIP. II. AWAM- A . Q'« SERTORIO 'AB^AdJ NVNC« OBIVOR " perdvct:\m ''ET. lOANl^E.ffltRESTITVTAM • REGNI 'ET» F il' [{ilTATIS » IL^MeI • M\WIFI€ENTL\"IlEGIA^€ON:|g ^'ERVMWAM • CVRAVIT - KEnIiFICIS - BENEF!C^^^|p PONI ' STATVIT- CEPPIS - EBORENS • ANTIQYAp NOBULITATEM » ATTEST.\NTIBVS ° FORYAl'''5i ILLVSTRAT - ANNO • BOM • MDCY » I'uNtsIUii Mil/ /.'jj^,i.di/ lutUHtvut /)tn/t\f in thf Stntiid PlateXOn ^'i"i'ii.^"''.'ii'''|^ii:i:'iNi':iiMiiiiiii;;ii^,i,i'i,i:,;',:Mni:,ii:iiiiiii , , A COPYOFANARABIC INSCRIFTIOy^^^at EVORA , PiibU^hi'MatfAj^.bifCadtUiuui'Dityte.iifi.llieSlnind. TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ;o9 be feen in the following Plates; viz. XX.' XXI. XXIF. I cannot help obferving that the infcriptional ftone Dj reprefented in Plate XX. appears to be fiditious. Plate XXIIL is a copy of an Arabic infcriptional Stone at Evora. The prototypes of the ancient vafe M, and of the Doric frieze N, in Plate XIV. are alfo preferved in the wall wherein the above infcriptional ftones are placed. Charjiel Houfe. Plate AXIV, One morning, whilft I was making fome fketches in the Pra9a, or Square, at Evora, a Francifcan Friar accofted me, and afked, if I had feen the Cafa dos Ofos of his con- vent ? On being anfwered in the negative, he replied, Well then, Mr. Strange?', thou hajl feen nothing; corns with me. We pafTed through the Francifcan church, and entered an arched -way, over which is this infcription : Nos OS ofos que aqui ejlamos, Pellos vojjos efperamos. Reader, refpedt each mouldering bone ; This facred cell await thy own. The vifitant is ftruck with furprize, mixed with ter- ror, on entering this Golgotha. It is fixty-fix feet long, by thirty-iix broad. The piers, which are eight in num- berj 3IO TRAVELS I N P O R T U G A L. ber, that is, four at each fide of the nave, and alfo the walls, are lined with human fkulls and bones, fet in a hard cement. The obfcurity of the place, and the proftrate pofture of the pious fupplicants, render the whole a fcene truly awful. Dr. Young, who is faid to have compofed his Night Thoughts by the light of a taper fet in a human fkuU, would have faturated his melancholy had he fludied here ; yet the Friars appeared to contemplate thefe mementos of mortality without the leaft emotion of that awe incident to ftrangers. Such ia tKc ciTc^a of cuilom, even death it- felf is diverted of its terror in the idea of religious people, who are conftantiy ruminating on it, and alfo in the idea of thofe men who are habituated to the fight of dead bodies and fanguinary fcenes. Montagne obfervcs, '' It was for this purpofe that fepulchres and cemeteries were made adjoining to the churches, and in the moft frequented p rts of the city, with a view to diveft the people (fays Lycurgus) of the idea of terror at the fight of a corpfe, and to the end that the continual fight of bones, graves, monuments, and fu- neral obfequies, fhould put them in mind of their trail condition." We may alfo add a cuflom that obtained among the Mexi- cans, when the Spaniards firft invaded their country, pro- 5 bably /■ TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 311 bably with a view to infpire courage, as well as to accuftom their people to contemn the horrors of death. They fre- quently hung the fkulls of their vidlims around their temples, and at other times piled them up in towers cemented with lime. In one of thefe towers And7~ea de Tape a is faid to have counted an hundred and thirty-fix thoufand fkulls. Hence, perhaps, the cuftom of the ancient Romans, who at their banquets were wont to treat their guefts with tragic exhib'fion^, mplcing fencers fight in their prcfcnce till ftreams of blood gufhed over the tables and dilhcs. The Egpytians, in like manner, at their feaft,, had perfons who cried to the company whilft they exhibited images of death j Drink, and be merry, for fuch fhall be thy fate at THE END. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. Form L9-Series 4939 D 000 295 800 7 ^:r:-:ammmmm