AGRONOMY CLUTE I I fc THE LIST PRICE is .../ THIS BOOK UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES GIFT OF Arthur M. Johnson 6 z o P C O 3 n r* w r o St 3 3 U> WI Fl n H O c O ?i 5 r*i ig Q o en " o % era 3agS. "S 8 d " 3 *-t g. s* e. g. ** .rT "^ r/i 5 5 g 2 3 I' 5 3 B. 5' "2. g^' g>jr 3 g" g S, 7 S. g Sj g E, S T* A 8 < c /^ P/* 3*.^-- 5 2 & rt W 3 3 S- S- rt ^ ^^ NJ rr 3 ^ o 2-o o. S- 3 I s i f i. o o S L o 1 n 5 <* 5 S" P> 1.3 W y H 5' H ii "SB"" o _ a. O p ^ W o sf m 3_ a- c CT" O* S, o gf fs- 1 2. crq 3 o o' 3 ^ f * 4" S" v n CL v> 3 3 C 1, J: ^ 0. (S "' S p->> O o" ft I sr ^ S5' o s w f O >i *! S 3 ^ & 3-033 P o - C -rt 3 ' Mui 3 5' " -a a 5 1 I. { n 3 ft C. 3 o ^ S:| :i^i^ ^c^ ? S 3 s. c- ? ^ S- R I" &. I" 5. 2: 5T -^' ft 'v cT *^' 3 X < ao ft - C. ai 3 S B- AGRONOMY A COURSE IN PRACTICAL GARDENING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS BY WILLARD NELSON CLUTE AUTHOR OF "LABORATORY BOTANY FOR HIGH SCHOOLS," "FLORA OF THE UPPER SUSQUEHANNA," "OUR FERNS IN THEIR HAUNTS," "FERN ALLIES OF NORTH AMERICA," ETC. GINN AND COMPANY BOSTON NEW YORK CHICAGO LONDON COPYRIGHT, 1913, BY WILLARD NELSON CLUTE ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 913.1 Cbe GIXX AND COMPANY PRO- PRIETORS BOSTON U.S.A. PREFACE This book has been prepared to meet the needs of high schools in cities and towns where agriculture is taught, and in which the problems that confront the teacher are in some respects different from those that come up in rural communi- ties. The environment of the city child makes it undesirable to emphasize in his case the growing of stock, the production and care of milk, the breeding of animals, and the cultivation of field crops. There is, however, much information of a practical nature regarding the cultivation of plants which he finds necessary for the fullest enjoyment of his surroundings. Though not engaged in growing crops for a livelihood, he is, nevertheless, interested in the cultivation of vegetables and flowers, the making of lawns and their care, the planting of shrubbery, the trimming of trees, and similar matters. In the present volume it has been the aim, therefore, to develop the subject of agriculture from the urban viewpoint, though y* the matters discussed are fundamental to any system of cul- S^ tivating plants and are as applicable to rural communities as elsewhere. Furthermore, it is expected that the book will ^ also serve as a practical guide to that part of the general X)ublic which, though no longer in school, takes an interest n the cultivation of plants in lawn, garden, and orchard. >i\ Agronomy, as outlined in the following pages, is regarded a division of agriculture coordinate with animal husbandry. The latter division, though often included in books of this kind, is as distinct from agronomy as zoology is from botany, and has been omitted from this book partly because the sub- ject of agronomy is alone sufficient for one semester's work, v 442842 vi AGRONOMY and partly because city children are not brought much into contact with farm animals. Animal husbandry may well be taught as a separate course, and, if given in the semester fol- lowing that in which agronomy is given, will afford the pupil a year's continuous work in agriculture. The practical nature of the matter here presented has been proved by several sea- sons' work with classes in a large city high school. No direc- tions for work have been given that have not been tried out with such classes. Agronomy differs from the usual botanical course of the high school in that it is largely the practice of an art rather than the study of a science. It seeks to make the student physically proficient as well as mentally alert. Although usually given after a course in botany, it is by nature an excellent introduction to the more technical study, since it enables the student to bring to bear upon it a considerable first-hand knowledge of plants and plant habits. In the high- school curriculum botany may be considered as existing for the sake of the drill it gives in observation and deduction, as well as for the information it affords, and it is therefore proper that it should be based largely upon experiment. In agronomy, however, experiment has a much smaller place. The fundamentals have so long been a matter of common knowledge that they need not be made the subjects for ex- periment, though the possibility of proving any phase of the work by this means should not be overlooked. The course in agronomy here presented is designed to cover a half year of work in the laboratory and school garden and to be given in the spring semester. It is essentially an outdoor course in doing things, with the culture, propagation, and amelioration of plants as the central theme. It presup- poses a school garden in which the pupil can carry out the work of cultivating and training plants, and the chief end of the course will be missed if this book is used merely as a PKEFACE vii convenient source of material for recitations. Few schools are so situated as to make the possession of a school garden abso- lutely impossible. If the school grounds are not large enough, a vacant lot in the vicinity may be secured by rent or pur- chase, or the home garden of one of the pupils may be used. Some successfully managed school gardens are ten minutes' walk from the school building. Wherever located the garden ought to be securely fenced against the depredations of the small boy and other irresponsible folk, and a certain degree of permanency should be secured for the plantings, if possi- ble, since at least part of the plants grown will be perennials, which improve with the years if left undisturbed. Whenever practicable, the school garden should be a part of the school property. Classes seldom need to be encouraged to take an interest in gardening, but the teacher should see to it that the work is properly planned in advance, that time is allowed for culti- vating the crops, and that such experiments are carried on in the experimental plots as will deepen the interest and value of the work to the student. The food, fiber, and drug plants little known in the region may be grown, the many varieties of common vegetables may be tested, and attractive flowers cultivated. Room should also be found for growing all sorts of aberrant plants that may be discovered by the class, such as those possessing double flowers, fasciated stems, color varia- tions, and variations in the cutting of leaves. As a general thing, the crops planted should be such as mature before school closes for the summer or which do not mature until autumn. In the first group are lettuce, spinach, cress, radishes, onions, and turnips ; in the second are carrots, parsnips, and salsify. The many forms of radishes now offered by seeds- men are excellent subjects for showing the great variation that may occur in a single plant part. A few experiments may be carried on for a series of years, especially such as viii AGRONOMY pertain to the training of special shrubs, trees, and vines, and the propagation or breeding of plants. The greatest success attends a class in which each pupil is allotted space for an individual garden, though two pupils may work in partner- ship with good results. Every effort should be made to have the student secure first-hand information. A single visit to an implement store, for instance, will give him more information of real value than hours of recitation about implements which he has never seen or examined. For the same reason frequent field trips to parks, market gardens, nurseries, greenhouses, public gar- dens, and the like should be made. These trips should, if possible, be taken in the hours allotted to agronomy in the school day and should be counted as part of the regular work. In many cases the period for this study may come last in the day's program, thus allowing pupils to take as much additional time for the work after school as they desire. There is always a tendency on the part of the teacher to assume more knowledge of familiar things than the student possesses, and for this reason it is well to carry out all the exercises suggested, though at first glance some may appear too simple to be worth while. To the end that the pupils be made conversant with the literature of the subject, they should be encouraged to con- sult the reference works named at the end of each chapter, as well as more general works such as Bailey's " Cyclopedia of American Horticulture " and " Cyclopedia of American Agri- culture." Each student should also be encouraged to write to the national government for such publications on plants as may interest him. Upon application, the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C., will send a list of publications to which a price is attached, and the Editor and Chief of the Division of Publications, Department of Agriculture, will send a monthly list of free PEEFACE ix publications. In the case of the more expensive publications the pupil's representative in Congress or his senator may se- cure them free. The publications of his own state agricul- tural experiment station will also be most useful, and those of other states may often be obtained. All available pamphlets of the kind should, of course, be in the school library. It is often possible to secure enough duplicates of the more impor- tant publications to allow one for each member of the class. The pupils should also be supplied with the catalogues of reliable seedsmen and growers of nursery stock. These may usually be had upon request, and the writing of a letter for this purpose may well be made a part of the class work. At the time the work in agronomy is begun the weather is not likely to be favorable for work in the open, but there are, fortunately, many matters of theory and fact that may be discussed in the classroom before the season for gardening begins, and some of the experiments may also be performed. The book has been arranged, as far as practicable, to follow the progress of the seasons, but in the early weeks of the course the theoretical may overshadow the practical, and mat- ters may be discussed that will not be taken up in a practical way until much later. By looking ahead and selecting those exercises that may be performed as well at one time as at another, the student will be enabled to approach the real work of the course with considerable theoretical knowledge that can be tested later by practice. One cannot deal intelligently with plants without knowing their names and relationships, and it is recommended that the identification of plants by the use of a good manual of botany be made part of the course. For this work the strictly tech- nical manuals are better than the more popular volumes, since they not only give the names but teach exactness, increase the vocabulary, and familiarize the pupil with the use of scientific keys. The small preliminary instruction needed for the use of such a manual may be given in the early part of the course, thus preparing the student to name the flowers as fast as they appear. It is not easy to overestimate the value of all sorts of col- lections for use in connection with agronomy. The accumula- tion of striking objects with which to illustrate the course is, however, not a matter of a single year, for the specimens must be secured a few at a time as they are found. Soil maps, typ- ical fungi, seed collections, samples of soils and fertilizers, mineral specimens and pictures of unusual crops, specimen plants, and unfamiliar farming operations all add to the attrac- tiveness and interest of the course. If the school does not possess a museum in which these may be kept, they should be carefully preserved in the laboratory or classroom. In most cases specific directions for performing an experi- ment or for carrying on the other work of the course have been omitted from this book, since the conditions in different schools are likely to vary, and the teacher will naturally prefer to work these out to fit his own local conditions. Indeed, in many instances, the planning of the work may be left to the student. No doubt mistakes will be made, but one may learn much from his mistakes. If the pupils have not had an earlier course in botany, or if it is desired to go deeper into the sub- ject of the organization of the plant than is here presented, the author's " Laboratory Botany for the High School " may be found useful. The sources of the illustrations in this volume are for the most part indicated in connection with the illustrations them- selves, but the author takes this opportunity to acknowledge his indebtedness to the Bateman Manufacturing Company, Greenloch, New Jersey ; Wagner's Park Conservatories, Sid- ney, Ohio ; The Lord and Burnham Company, New York ; and S. L. Allen, Philadelphia, for the loan of photographs and other material. Several illustrations that originally appeared PREFACE xi in Duggar's " Fungous Diseases of Plants " and Bergen and Caldwell's " Practical Botany " have been secured through the kindness of the authors of these books. Other drawings in the book are the work of the author's pupils, and the data for the tables of precipitation were supplied by Mr. F. M. Muhlig, United States weather observer at Joliet. The author is especially indebted to his friends, Mr. A. T. Weaver of the American Steel and Wire Company and Mr. Mark Bennitt of the H. L. Hollister Land Company, Chicago, for the use of numerous excellent photographs, and to them, as well as to the others mentioned, he extends his sincere thanks. For a careful reading of the entire proof and for many help- ful suggestions in connection therewith, the author is under deep obligations to his colleague, Professor E. F. Downey of the Flower Technical High School, Chicago; to Professor Grant Smith, Chicago Teachers' College ; and to Professor John H. Schaffner, head of the department of botany, Ohio State University. To his failure to adopt in some instances the sug- gestions made, must be attributed such errors as may be de- tected. By far the larger number of drawings in the book are the work of the author's wife, Ida Martin Clute, and to her he is further indebted for invaluable assistance in preparing the text and in correcting the proofs. WILLARD N. CLUTE JOLIET, ILLINOIS CONTENTS CHAPTER I. A LESSON IN CHEMISTRY . . ...... 1 Chemical elements. Atoms and molecules. Chemical formulas. Chemical compounds. Distribution of the elements. Elements found in plants. Potassium. Sodium. Magnesium. Calcium. Aluminum. Iron. Manganese. Oxygen. Hydrogen. Nitrogen. Chlorine. Carbon. Phosphorus. Sulphur. Silicon. Practical exercises. CHAPTER II. ORIGIN OF THE SOIL .......... 11 What the soil is. Depth of the soil. The subsoil. Origin of the soil and subsoil. Weathering. Weathering by decomposition. Weather- ing by disintegration. Work of glaciers. Modifications of the bed rock. Table of rocks. Changes in mantle rock. Practical exercises. CHAPTER III. TYPES OF SOILS ........... 25 Named for their origin. Sedentary soils. Lacustrine soils, soils. Volcanic soils. Colluvial soils. Glacial soils. Alluvial soils. Soil constituents. Sand and clay contrasted. Loam. Alkali soils. Acid soils. A test for acid soils. Artificial soils. Practical exercises. CHAPTER IV. CONDITIONS AFFECTING SOIL FERTILITY . 38 Structure. The air. Air in the soil. Temperature. Variations in temperature. Other factors that modify temperatures. The Fahren- heit and centigrade scales. Precipitation. Water in the soil. The water table. Drainage. Irrigation. Dry farming. Physiologically dry soils. Practical exercises. CHAPTER V. THE ORGANIZATION OF THE PLANT .... 55 The great plant groups. The regions of the plant. Cellular structure of the plant. Roots. Taproots. Structure of the root. Root hairs. Osmosis. The stem. Structure of the stem. Buds. Leaves. Internal structure of the leaf. Formation of plant food. Transpiration. The flower. Pollination. The fruit. The seed. Life cycle of plants. The rest period of plants. Genera, species, and varieties. Scientific names. Practical exercises. xiii xiv AGRONOMY PAGE CHAPTER VI. THE ELEMENTS NEEDED BY PLANTS ... 95 Source of the elements. Selective absorption. Use of water to the plant. Root pressure. Carbon dioxide. Nitrogen. Calcium and magnesium. Potassium and phosphorus. Sulphur and iron. Chlorine, silicon, and others. Practical exercises. CHAPTER VII. FERTILIZERS 101 The available mineral in the soil. Toxic substances in the soil. Ele- ments that may be lacking. Sources of the needed elements. Manures. Green manures. Nitrification. Bacteria and nitrification. Nitrogen fixation. Mycorrhizas. Soil inoculation. Denitrifying bacteria. - Harmful organisms in the soil. Limiting factors in plant growth. Practical exercises. CHAPTER VIII. THE PLANT IN RELATION TO TEMPERA- TURE, LIGHT, AND MOISTURE 113 Growth temperature. Hardy and tender plants. Cardinal points. Acclimatization. Frost. Locality and frost. How cold kills plants. Other effects of cold. How plants avoid the effects of cold. Artifi- cial protection from the cold. Treatment of frostbitten plants. Effects of heat. Protection from heat. Need of light. Effects of lack of light. Blanching. Protection from light. Effects of over- watering. Time to water. Effects of lack of water. Water and plant forms. Practical exercises. CHAPTER IX. GARDEN MAKING 129 Location of the garden. Preparing the soil. The garden plan. How to plant. When to plant. Autumn seed bed. Germination. Seed test- ing. Double cropping. Transplanting. Inducing plants to fruit. Thinning. Labels. Saving seed. Seed packets. Practical exercises. CHAPTER X. TILLAGE 149 Need for tillage. Pulverizing the soil. Mulches. Work of earth- worms and ants. Rotation of crops. Practical exercises. CHAPTER XI. FORCING AND RETARDING PLANTS .... 157 Nature of the process. Retarding. Greenhouses and hothouses. Hot- beds. Cold frames. Forcing single hills. Etherization. Forcing plants in the window garden. Practical exercises. CHAPTER XII. WEEDS 164 Definition of a weed. Harmfulness of weeds. Nature of weeds. Eradicating weeds. Purslane. Spreading amaranth. Green ama- ranth. Tumbleweed. Pigweed. Russian thistle. Spotted spurge. CONTENTS xv PAGE Dandelion. Plantain. Common bindweed. Black bindweed. Prickly lettuce. Ragweed. Wild mustard. Oxeye daisy. Canada thistle. Quack grass. Crab grass. Foxtail. Old witch grass. Buttercup. Wild carrot. Sorrel. Other weeds. Practical exercises. CHAPTER XIII. PROPAGATION 181 Natural methods. Typical forms for propagation. Artificial propaga- tion. Cuttings. Hardwood cuttings. Layering. The sand box. Bud- ding. Method of budding. Grafting. Different forms of grafting. Inarching. Graf ting wax. Effect of stock on cion. Practical exercises. CHAPTER XIV. DECORATIVE PLANTING 197 Purpose. Lawn making. Paths and lawn planting. Care of the lawn. The border. Arrangement of the plants. Shrubs for winter effects. Naming the shrubs and trees. Herbaceous plants. Arrange- . ment of herbaceous perennials. Hedges. Bulbs. Carpet bedding. Formal planting. Transplanting shrubs and trees. Transplanting herbaceous perennials. Mulching and heeling in. Treatment of woodlands. Enemies of the forest. Practical exercises. CHAPTEIl XV. PRUNING .......... . . . . 215 Purpose of pruning. Time to prune. Pruning implements. Methods of pruning. Making the cut. Specimens needing little pruning. Pruning special crops. Thinning. Heading in. Root pruning. Gir- dling. Cavities and broken limbs. Topiary work. Practical exercises. CHAPTER XVI. PLANT DISEASES 230 Origin. Number of plant diseases. Rots. Wilts. Blights. Leaf spot. Molds and mildews. Smuts. Rusts. Wound parasites. Other plant diseases. Sprays and spraying. Bordeaux mixture. Lime-sulphur wash. Ammoniacal copper carbonate. Potassium sulphide solution.' Preventive measures. Practical exercises. CHAPTER XVII. INSECT PESTS 245 How insects injure plants. Metamorphoses of insects. Forms of insects that cause injury. Cutworms. Cabbage worm. Currant worm. Tomato worm. Corn-ear worm. Tent caterpillar. Codlin moth. Curculio. Cankerworms. Borers. Elm-leaf beetle. Cucumber beetle. Blister beetles. Potato beetle. May beetles. Plant lice, or aphids. Squash bug. Mealy bug. Scale insects. Preventing attacks of insects. Poisons for chewing insects. Remedies against sucking insects. Spray pumps. Other aids in fighting insects. Practical exercises. xvi AGRONOMY PAGE CHAPTER XVIII. PLANT BREEDING 258 Need for breeding. Basis for breeding. Inducing variation. Hybrids and hybridizing. Producing the cross. Mendel's law. Selection. Roguing. Xenia. Parthenogenesis. Practical exercises. CHAPTER XIX. THE ORIGIN OF SPECIES 272 Evolution. Struggle for existence. Natural selection. Results of variation. Darwinian theory. Mutation theory. Practical exercises. CHAPTER XX. OUR CULTIVATED PLANTS 277 Origin. Edible parts of plants. Root crops. Leaf crops. The legumes. Solanaceous fruits. Gourd fruits. The grasses. Bush fruits. Tree fruits New fruits. Practical exercises. APPENDIX SEVENTY-FIVE SHRUBS USEFUL FOR PLANTING 285 FIFTEEN WOODY VINES DESIRABLE FOR ARBORS AND PORCHES . 288 FIFTY DESIRABLE HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS 289 INDEX . . 291 AGKONOMY CHAPTER I A LESSON IN CHEMISTRY Chemical elements. The earth's crust, the animals and plants upon it, and the multitude of substances with which we are familiar are composed of a small number of simpler forms of matter, known as chemical elements, combined in various ways. A chemical element may be denned as a sub- stance that has not been resolved into simpler substances, and as thus defined there are only about eighty chemical elements in the world. Gold may be taken as an illustration. Though it be divided into particles too small to be visible in the microscope, or heated until it becomes liquid, or subjected to strong currents of electricity, it is still gold and nothing else. A few chemical elements may be found " native," that is, uncombined with others, but usually two or more unite to form chemical compounds. By far the larger number are always found thus combined. Oxygen may be cited as a familiar example of an element that exists both free and combined. As a free gas it forms about one fifth of the air we breathe ; combined with other elements it makes up about half of the water and rock of the earth's crust. Chemical elements are often grouped as metals and nonmetals, the metals being greatly in the majority. Usually the metals may be distin- guished by names ending in urn. The difference between a metal and a nonmetal, however, is not easily defined. A metal is supposed to have the following properties: it must 1 exist as a solid and have a metallic luster, must be capable of conducting heat and electricity, must be opaque, hard, malleable, ductile, and capable of forming compounds with oxygen. Probably no single metal has all these properties, but no substance would be accepted as a metal that did not possess many of them. Iron, nickel, copper, and mercury are among the more familiar metals. Carbon, sulphur, and phos- phorus may be named as examples of the nonmetals. Theo- retically, at least, each chemical element may exist as a solid, a liquid, or a gas, but many have not yet been produced in all three of these conditions. Increasing the temperature will make many of the ordinary solids liquid, and the reverse of this process, combined with pressure, serves to liquefy even the lightest gases. Water, while not a chemical element, will serve to illustrate this change of state. In its more familiar form it is a liquid, but if heated to 21 2 F. it becomes a gas, and if cooled below 32 F. it becomes a solid. Atoms and molecules. An atom is the smallest part of a chemical element that can enter into combination with other parts. Atoms may therefore be said to be the units of which more complex compounds are built. Not very much is known regarding the size of atoms, but they are estimated to be about one hundred-millionth of an inch in diameter and to bear about the same relation to the size of a tennis ball that the latter bears to the earth. Atoms usually do not long exist as such, but combine with other atoms to form molecules, which are the smallest enduring particles of a compound, just as the atoms are the smallest part of a chemical element. All the atoms of a single chemical element are exactly alike, otherwise it would not be a chemical element. Chemical formulas. Atoms have the same relation to chemi- cal compounds that letters have to words, and the chemist is therefore able to write a definite formula for the molecule of every substance. Each element has its own chemical symbol, A LESSON IX CHEMISTRY usually the initial of its name, as C for carbon and P for phosphorus. When the initial is duplicated in the list of symbols, one more distinguishing letter may be added, as Ca for calcium and Pt for platinum. Occasionally an element may be given the initial of an older name, as in the case of K for potassium, where the initial stands for kalium. Iron has the symbol Fe, derived from ferntm. The student familiar with the names of the elements readily recognizes the kinds of atoms that form a given compound when its formula is read. When more than one atom of a kind enters into the combination, the number is written below the line and im- mediately following the symbol. Thus the formula CO 2 , representing a molecule of carbon dioxide, is seen to consist of one atom of carbon united with two atoms of oxygen. The molecule of water is written H 2 O. In this two atoms of TABLE OF THE MORE COMMON CHEMICAL ELEMENTS X A M 1 . SYMBOL NAME SYMBOL Aluminum Al Lead (plumbum) Pb Antimony (stibium) 8b Lithium Li Argon A Magnesium .... Mg Arsenic As Manganese Mn Barium Ba Mercury (JiydrurN>MY leaf and the outer air, therefore, the epidermis contains great multitudes of tiny openings called atomata (singular, stoma), which connect with the intercellular spaces. Each stoma FIG. 61. Epidermal cells and stomata from the leaf of the begonia, a dicotyledon. (Much enlarged) is provided with a pair of guard cells roughly semicircular in shape, which can, upon occasion, enlarge or dimmish the size of the opening. The stomata are exceedingly minute, THE OBGANIZATION OF THE PLANT 75 but they make up in number what they lack in size. There may be several million in the epidermis on the underside of a single ordinary leaf. The stomata have been estimated to oc- cupy nearly one twentieth of the area of the leaf. It is a curi- ous fact that gases can enter the leaf through these minute openings more rapidly than they can pass through a single opening equal in area to all the stomata. Formation of plant food. Food is formed only in the green cells of the plant. This is because the energy necessary for combining the food materials is derived from the sunlight by the green coloring matter called chlorophyll. In the cell this color is found in small bodies known as chloroplasts. The chloroplasts really form the food, though they are helpless without chlorophyll. The first food product formed is usually grape sugar, represented by the formula C 6 H 12 O 6 , but this is soon turned to starch, a more stable form of plant food, with the formula C 6 H 1Q O 5 . Plants of the iris, lily, and amaryllis families rarely form starch. In such plants oil formed from the same three chemical elements may be the first visi- ble product of photosynthesis. Starch, wood, and several other substances contain the same proportion of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, and the differ- ence between them is accounted for by assuming a different multiple of the formula for each. The hydrogen and oxygen in the combination are derived from the soil water, and the carbon comes from the carbon dioxide in the air. The latter goes into the leaf through the stomata, and, spreading FIG. 62. Cells of a moss with chloroplasts FIG. 63. Starch grains in the cells of a potato 76 AGRONOMY through the intercellular spaces, mixes with the moisture in the cell walls and thus enters the cells. Here it is combined into food and the excess oxygen given off. The whole process is known as photosynthesis. It is popularly supposed that photo- synthesis in plants is the equivalent of respiration in animals, but this is an error. Plants also respire, exactly as animals do, taking in oxygen and giving off carbon dioxide, but, unlike animals, they have the additional process of photosynthesis, in which carbon dioxide is taken in and oxygen released. The two processes differ also in other W respects. Respiration occurs in every living cell, in roots as well as in stems and leaves, ^ ^ ^ and goes on continu- .> ^% ally? while photosyn- fs i^ggO^ thesis goes on only in the green cells in sunlight. The grape sugar FIG. 64. Cells of the carrot with crystals of ~ 1-0.11 , . , . ., . -.. formed in the leaves carotin, which give the root its orange color is, as we have noted, almost immediately turned to starch. Later, especially at night, this food is distributed through the plant, by way of the sieve tubes, to be used in the formation of new tissues, or it is stored in stems, roots, and other organs until needed. Starch, however, cannot pass through the cell walls, and before it can be moved it must be turned back to grape sugar again. This is accomplished by means of vegetable ferments called enzymes, and the process is called digestion. A green and starchy banana or pear laid aside for a time will become sweet by the same process. The underground parts of the plant are favor- ite places for the storage of food. Here the grape sugar is THE ORGANIZATION OF THE PLANT 77 again turned to starch by the leueoplasts or amyloplasts, small bodies allied to the chloroplasts. The leueoplasts and starch grains may be easily seen in young shoots of the canna. Transpiration. Another important service performed for the plants by the leaves is the transpiration of water. The transpiration stream, passing off through the stomata, not only keeps the cell sap denser than the soil water, thus providing for a continuous inflow of food materials in solution, but the mere evaporation of so much moisture enables the plant to FIG. 65. Cells from a dahlia root, showing crystals of iiiulin, a substance allied to starch keep cool in the midst of the downpour of heat on a summer day. At the end of the growing season most of our broad- leaved plants prepare for the approaching winter by casting their leaves. By so doing they avoid transpiration in winter when most of the moisture in the soil is locked up by the frost. But even in milder climates the leaves are eventually thrown off. In regions of summer drought they may all be cast at once ; otherwise the individual leaves fall one by one, and the tree always has a crown of verdure. One reason for the casting of the leaves is that after a season of food making a considerable amount of useless mineral matter has accumu- lated in the leaf, which impairs its usefulness. The ashes from 78 a bushel of leaves picked from a tree in autumn are noticeably heavier than the ashes from a bushel of leaves picked fmm the same tree in spring. The growth of the stem and the FIG. 66. Cells from the rind of ail orange, showing the colored chromoplasts production of new leaves which shade the older ones make it desirable to cut off the latter after a time. The fall of the leaf is caused by a layer of brittle cells which the plant con- structs across the petiole. When the parts are cast off, a smooth scar is left, over which a thin cover of bark is deposited. Great numbers of flow- ers and embryo fruits are cut off by the plants in the same way, and many woody species also cut off some of their twigs. The latter are usually the young twigs of the season and of FIG. 67. Typical flower of the houseleek pet, petals; sta, stamens; car, the same age as the leaves. carpels; sep, sepals _ TT1 The flower. When the season lor reproduction arrives the flowers appear. These may be re- garded as transformed branches designed for reproduction. The flower when complete has four sets of organs, called THE ORGANIZATION OF THE PLANT 79 FIG. 68. A typical mono- cotyledon flower respectively the sepals, petals, stamens, and carpels. On the outside are the green and leaf like sepals ; next within are the colored and more delicate petals; then come one or more circles of threadlike organs with knobbed ends, the stamens; and last, occupying the center of the flower, are one or more bottle-shaped or club-shaped carpels. Taken collec- tively, the sepals form the calyx and the petals the corolla. The carpels when united form the pistil, though often the carpels themselves are called pistils. The base of the pistil is the ovary and within it are the ovules, des- tined to ripen into seeds. In order that fertile seeds be produced, however, it is necessary that the flower be pollinated, that is, that the tiny grains of pollen formed in the knobs, or anthers, of the stamen fall upon the stiyma at the apex of the pistil. In this position each grain puts out a pollen tube which grows down through the sub- stance of the pistil until it meets and enters an ovule, after which fertilization, or the union of an egg and sperm, is accomplished. Each flower, therefore, must receive at least as many pollen grains as it ripens seeds, and it usually receives many more, for some fail to reach the stigma and are therefore wasted. The end of the stem, from which the floral parts rise, is called the receptacle. When the other sets of organs in the flower ap- pear to spring from the base of the ovary, the flower is said to be hypogynous. Sometimes the receptacle grows up about the ovary in such a way that the floral parts seem to grow from the top of the ovary. In such cases the flower is epigynous. FIG. . A typical dicoty- ledon flower 80 AGRONOMY Pollination. Stamens and carpels are the only organs in the flower that are necessary to the production of seeds, and for this reason are often distinguished as the essential organs. A considerable number of plants, of which the willow and cottonwood are examples, have only these two kinds of organs, showing very clearly that the others are not necessary. In some species the sta- mens and pistils are in separate flowers, as in the pumpkin and cucumber; in others they may be on sep- arate plants, as in the willow. Even when both sets are found in the same flower, as in the lily and most of our common plants, they are usually sepa- rated from each other by a distance too great to be bridged with- out the aid of the FIG. 70. Trillium wind, birds, insects, A plant in which the monocotyledon number an( ] other agencies. Of (three) is especially prominent these, the two most important are undoubtedly wind and insects. Wind-pollinated flowers are generally inconspicuous, lacking sepals and petals and producing neither perfume, pollen, nor nectar, since the wind will work without pay ; but flowers that depend upon insects and birds for pollination must provide a reward in the form of nectar or extra pollen, and must advertise it by THE ORGANIZATION OF THE PLANT 81 FIG. 71. A group of wind-pollinated flowers Those on the left are staminate ; those on the right are of two kinds, the easily recognized staminate and the small starlike pistillate near the tips of the branches perfume and brightly colored petals or sepals. These latter organs may also be of service to insect-pollinated flowers by being so arranged that visitors cannot remove the nectar AGRONOMY without being dusted with pollen and at the same time brush- ing off upon the pistil the pollen brought from other flowers. Many insect-pollinated flowers, in order to better direct the attention of insects to the nectar, have various colored lines and dots, called nectar guides, on the petals and sepals. In addition, the petals and sepals may protect the nectar from being dried up by the sun or diluted by rain and dew. In some flowers the stamens and pistils are so arranged that pollination may be effected by pollen from their own stamens. This is called self or dose pollination. Usually, how- ever, the stigma and stamens ripen at different times, or are so placed that pollen from another flower is required in order to produce seeds. When this occurs the process is called cross polli- nation. All the highly specialized flow- ers are adapted for cross pollination, and this arrangement has been found to produce more vigorous and versatile offspring. Wind-pollinated flowers have to produce a great abundance of dry, powdery pollen grains to insure that, when these are intrusted to currents of air, enough will find the waiting pistils to render their ovules fertile. Insect-pollinated flowers, on the contrary, having adopted a more certain method of transfer, do not have to produce so much pollen. In some species the flower contains only one or two anthers, and yet it finds this number sufficient for its needs. In adapting themselves to insects and other agencies for the transfer of pollen, flowers have become more varied than any other organ of the plant. Running through all their variations, however, a general plan of the flower may be discerned. In FIG. 72. Flower of the nasturtium (Tropaeolum), with two large nectar guides and three " false " nectar guides False nectar guides are supposed to discourage the visits of small insects THE ORGANIZATION OF THE PLANT 83 the flowers of monocotyledons there are normally three parts in each circle, or whorl, or if there are more than this, the num- ber is some multiple of three. The iris has three sepals, three petals, three stamens, and a pistil composed of three carpels; the lily has three sepals, three petals, six Sta- FIG. 73. Plans of three typical flowers meilS and a three- The ^ rst a monocotyledon, the other two repre- senting four-parted and five-parted dicotyledons parted pistil. I he flowers of dicotyledons are usually distinguished from those of monocotyledons by having four or five parts in each circle, though they often exhibit a much wider range of variation. The fruit. The fruit results from the ripening of the pistil, or carpels, often in conjunction with other parts of the flower. Its development is one of the results of pollination. Flowers that fail to secure pollination are usually cut off and fall from the plant soon after blooming. There are many exceptions to this rule, however. All seedless fruits, among which may be mentioned navel oranges, seedless grapes, bananas, the currant of commerce, pineapples, and seedless or coreless apples and pears, must of course be produced without pollination. The secondary effects of pollination and the resultant fertilization are often far-reaching, and may extend not only to the ovary, or carpel, but to the receptacle and other parts as well. Fruits that develop as the result of incomplete pollination often lack the flavor of the seeded forms, and by their incomplete develop- ment indicate the fact that they have failed to receive sufficient pollen. In a majority of fruits the pistil alone is represented, as in peas, beans, plums, and tomatoes. In the apple, pear, and similar fruits the core, only, represents the pistil, the fleshy part being the receptacle that has grown up around it. The fleshy part of the strawberry is also a receptacle, and all the seedlike parts upon it are the remains of tiny pistils, FIG. 74. Fruits modified for wind distribution A, ironwood ; J3, white ash; C, ailanthus; D, hop tree; E, box elder; F, basswood ; G, pine ; H, locust ; /, silver bell ; J, sterculia ; K, black ash ; L, Norway maple 84 THE ORGANIZATION OF THE PLANT 85 each consisting of a single carpel. In the blackberry each small pistil becomes fleshy and the receptacle serves merely to hold them together. The raspberry is somewhat like the blackberry, but when ripe the pistils separate from the recep- tacle. A few fruits, such as the mulberry, pineapple, and osage orange, are the product of several flowers and are called compound fruits. In the pineapple each " eye " represents a separate flower. The object of the plant in producing flowers and fruits is, of course, the contin- uation of the species by the formation of seeds. Many plants too tender to en- dure great cold or drought are able to form seeds that can do so, and thus the life of the species is carried over the un- favorable season. In addition, seeds may multiply and distribute the plants as well. The fruit is de- signed to protect the developing seeds and to aid in distribut- ing them when mature. In some the fruit becomes sweet and juicy, to attract birds and mammals ; in others it forms winglike sails, by means of which the seeds are carried long distances by the wind ; in still others it develops hooks that FIG. 75. Seeds modified for wind distribution A, buttomvood; B, cat-tail; C, trumpet creeper; ]), ratalpa; E, dandelion; F, clematis; G, olean- der ; //, actiuomeris ; /, anemone ; ./, milkweed 86 AGRONOMY FIG. 76. External view of lima bean mic, micropyle ; hil, hilum ; tes, testa catch into the clothing of man and the other animals ; while not a few shoot their seeds for some distance or in other ways provide for their dispersal. The seed. The seed consists of an outer covering, called the testa, within which is a young plant, or embryo. The testa is marked externally by a scar, the hilum, where the seed was attached to the parent plant. Near the hilum is a tiny opening through the testa called the micropyle. The embryo always consists of a stemlike part, the cauli- cle, to which are attached one or two seed leaves, or cotyledons. In most cases a tuft of very rudi- mentary leaves, a bud in fact, is found at one end of the caulicle. This is the plumule. The embryo is always provided with a food store sufficient to give it a start in life. In plants like the bean this food supply may be stored in the young plant or it may be stored within the testa but outside the embryo, as in the castor bean, in which case it is known as the endosperm, or albumen. So unvarying is the occurrence of either one or two cotyledons in each kind of seed that this fact is commonly seized upon to divide the world of flowering plants into two groups. The plants whose seeds contain only one cotyledon are called monocotyledons, and those whose seeds contain two are called dicotyledons. The differ- ences between the groups, as we have seen, are not confined to the cotyledons alone, but are manifested in all the conspicuous parts of the plant. -tes FIG. 77. Embryo of lima bean plu, plumule; can, caulicle; cot, cotyledon; tes, testa FIG. 78. Seed of the castor bean, showing the projecting caruncle THE ORGANIZATION OF THE PLANT 87 of four-o'clock cot, cotyledon ; caw, caulicle ; end, endosperm Life cycle of plants. The life cycle of some plants is com- pleted in a single season. They spring up, flower, produce v-- -can their seeds, and disappear within the interval \-plu of a few weeks or months. On the other \-cot l iail cl, some of the lofty trees that still inhabit ^ the earth have been growing for many hun- FIG. 79. Seed dreds or even thousands of years. As regards of honey locust their length of life, however, plants may be cau.caolicle ; phi, t |j v ided into three groups annuals, biennials, plumule ;co,coty- ledon ; end, endo- and perennials. An annual is a plant that sperm; tes, testa completeg itg life cycle within a year. This may occur during a single grow- ing season, as in the radish, when it is called a summer annual ; or the plant may spring up in autumn, live through the winter, and fruit in the spring, as in some varieties of wheat, thus becoming a winter annual. Several of the common summer annuals of our gardens may be treated as winter annuals. Lettuce and spinach are sometimes grown in this way. It is clear from the behavior of these plants that they do not die from the cold but are killed by fruiting. Biennials differ from annuals in -- end -& that they require two growing seasons to complete the round of their existence. The first year they store up much food, which they use the second year in pioducing seeds. Car- rots, salsify, and beets are biennials. In re- gions with a long growing season the line dividing an- nuals from biennials breaks down more or less completely. .cot. I .plu FIG. 81. Grain of corn The fruit and seed of a monocotyledon, end, endo- sperm ; cot, cotyledon ; pin, plumule ; cau, caulicle 88 Fiu. 82. The showy lady's-slipper (Cypripedium spectabile) A type of the highest monocotyledons Perennials are plants that live more than two years. They are not killed by fruiting, though this makes heavy drafts upon their vitality. Like biennials, most perennials store up THE ORGANIZATION OF THE PLANT 89 more or less food in summer, which is expended in growth during the following spring. The rhubarb and asparagus, among garden vegetables, and the lily and iris, among decora- tive plants, are good examples of this. Most of the asparagus crop is produced from food made by the plant the preceding year. There are two classes of perennials. In the herbaceous perennials the stems die down to the ground in winter. Lilies, peonies, asparagus, and rhubarb are examples of this class. The woody perennials comprise our trees, shrubs, vines, and other forms that put up stems, which continue to live for a succession of years. Trees have a single trunk and usually attain heights of more than twenty feet. Shrubs have several stems and are less than twenty feet high. Bushes resemble shrubs, though they are somewhat smaller, usually being no taller than a man. Vines have stems too weak to stand alone and consequently must be supported by stronger plants. They may be root climbers like the poison ivy, twiners like the bitter- sweet, true climbers like the grape and woodbine, or scramblers like the climbing rose. The rest period of plants. In perennial species, after a season of growth, the vegetative processes gradually cease, buds are formed, the leaves are thrown off, the wood cells thicken, and the protoplasm, excluding much of its moisture, goes into a resting condition. It is likely that this season of dormancy was originally in response to a change in the season, for in northern regions it occurs at the beginning of winter and in the tropics at the beginning of the dry season. A period of rest, however, seems natural to most plants. Many seeds refuse to grow if planted as soon as ripe ; the spring flowering plants will not respond to warmth when brought into the house in early winter ; and potatoes, onions, parsnips, and the like, stored in cellars, do not begin to sprout until the approach of spring. The hyacinth, narcissus, crocus, and tulip, after flowering in the open ground, ripen their foliage 90 AGRONOMY and remain dormant during the summer, but in autumn begin to grow again, making more or less root growth all winter. The white, or Madonna, lily rests for a time in summer and makes new growth in autumn. Possibly half the species of crocus produce their flowers in autumn, and the witch-hazel is a well-known shrub with the same habit. Greenhouse plants, coming as they do from a region in which the season of rest is the dry season, are benefited by withholding water after the season for growth is over. Calla lilies and other bulbous plants are often allowed to become entirely dry after flowering. Our own plants seem to be adjusted to a season of cold for the rest period, though in many cases an exposure to dryness is as effective. In cold climates hardiness is often a matter of complete dormancy. Genera, species, and varieties. Although each kind of plant has adopted the form most suited to its position in life, and in consequence has become different from all others, this has not resulted in a multitude of disconnected forms. Strong lines of resemblance run through the different groups, and, interwoven through the vegetable kingdom, bind it into one related whole. As a general thing, the more decided the re- semblance between different forms, the closer the relationship. There are certain types of leaf and flower on which nature has rung a thousand changes, producing plant after plant essentially alike though ever varied. The casual observer do.es not fail to note these differences, and usually recognizes groups like the violets, lilies, asters, grasses, and legumes at sight, though he may fail when it comes to the lesser distinc- tions that separate species from species. The botanist, how- ever, finds it convenient to carefully delimit these smaller divisions. To the unit of his classification he gives the name of (species and defines it as a group of like individuals. All the plants of white clover or of field corn form a species. Crenera (singular, yenuz) are groups of related species. Ked THE ORGANIZATION OF THE PLANT 91 clover, white clover, yellow clover, and many other clover species belong to the clover genus, and all have a common resemblance in leaf, flower, and fruit. Going beyond the clovers, however, one finds many other plants whose general appearance suggests a relationship to them. Among these are beans, peas, alfalfa, vetch, locust, cowpeas, and soy beans. These differ enough to be put in different genera, but all are included with the clovers in a larger group called & family, which holds the same relation to genera as the genera them- selves hold to species. The family to which the clovers and their allies belong is the Leguminosse, or legume family. There are more than two hundred of these families, each composed of many genera and species. In a similar way families are grouped in orders. The legumes are placed with the rose- worts and various others in the order Resales. The species themselves, though called groups of like indi- viduals, constantly exhibit minor differences that may be brought out by selection or by modifying the surroundings of the plant. The radish is a species, but cultivation has made many forms of it. Such forms the gardener calls varieties, but the botanist calls them elementary species. The cultivated cabbage has produced several striking elementary species or varieties, among which are included kale, collards, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and kohl-rabi. Scientific names. Scientists have given each species of ani- mal and plant a scientific name to facilitate handling it in literature, correspondence, and conversation. These names have usually been taken from the Latin or Greek and have the merit of being the same the world over an obvious ad- vantage when the common or popular name may change from one locality to another and is rarely the same in the tongues of different nations. In speaking to our neighbors we may use the common name only, but in dealing with strangers it may often be necessary to use the scientific name to avoid 92 AGKONOMY being misunderstood. Each species has a specific name con- sisting of a single word, which is applied to it much as the given names of people are applied to them. Such specific names as alba, "white "; rubra, "red "; and vulgare," common," are frequently used. The generic name, always written before the specific, shows to what larger group a species belongs. Thus the crimson clover is Trifolium incarnatum. The red clover is also a species of Trifolium called Trifolium pratense. Only one species in each genus can have the same specific name, though this may be used again and again in other genera. Alba is a common specific name for white-flowered species in many genera. The generic name, however, can be used for but one group of plants. There is but one genus Trifolium in all the world. In naming lesser divisions of a species it is customary to give them varietal names taken from the Latin or Greek, though in many cases such plants are named after prominent persons, gardeners, and the like. PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. Strip off a piece of epidermis from one of the scales of an onion bulb, mount, and examine with the microscope. Find and label all parts of the cell mentioned on page 57. In the cells of ditch moss or the hairs from the flowers of gloxinia or tradescantia, note the circulation of the protoplasm. 2. Make thin sections of a potato and examine in the same way, to see starch grains. Apply a drop of dilute iodine solution to a piece of laundry starch. Note the color. Test the mount of potato in the same way. 3. Mount a leaf of the ditch moss (Elodea) or a leaf from any of the broad-leaved true mosses and note the chloroplasts. 4. Mount thin sections of the carrot or orange peel and examine the chromoplasts. Make a similar mount of the epidermis from the underside of a nasturtium petal. 5. Soak seeds of radish or mustard for a short time and throw them against the inside of a clean moist flowerpot to which they will stick. Invert the flowerpot over a shallow dish of water for a few days and THE ORGANIZATION OF THE PLANT 93 an abundance of root hairs will be produced by the germinating seeds. Examine with the microscope. 6. Make longitudinal and cross sections of parsnip or carrot to see the regions of the root. Find, draw, and label the parts. 7. Make thin cross sections of any young root and examine with the microscope for the cellular structure. 8. Perform the experiment with osmosis described on page 63. 9. Peel one end of a potato, set the peeled end in a dish of water, make a hole an inch or more deep in the other end, and in this hole put some dry sugar. Explain the moisture that appears in the hole. 10. Cut slices of potato a quarter of an inch thick and place some in salt water and some in fresh water. Account for the difference in rigidity in the two sets at the end of an hour. 11. Make cross sections of cornstalk or asparagus and compare with similar sections of geranium, begonia, or any of our forest trees. Make sketches to show the differences noted. 12. In a thin section of begonia or geranium stem locate the pith, wood, ducts, bast, and cortex. 13. Get a thrifty young willow twig and girdle it by removing a ring of bark an inch wide two or three inches from the lower end. Stand this in water so that the girdled portion is covered. Where do roots appear? What light does this throw on the passage of foods and food materials through the stem ? 14. On twigs of lilac, cherry, peach, golden bell, cottonwood, or horse-chestnut locate the flower and leaf buds. 15. Locate accessory buds in walnut, pipevine, red maple, box elder, butternut, and peach. 16. Select leaves to illustrate parallel, palmate, and pinnate vena- tion. Make sketches to show the different forms. 17. With the microscope examine the epidermis from the underside of a leaf for the stomata. Draw. 18. In a thin cross section of a leaf locate the tissues described on page 72. 19. Thrust the petiole of a geranium leaf through a small hole in a piece of cardboard and place the latter so that the petiole of the leaf will dip into a glass of water. Over the blade of the leaf invert a drink- ing glass, which should rest upon the cardboard. Explain the presence of the moisture that forms on the upper glass in a short time. 94 AGRONOMY 20. Select a representative flower and locate the organs named on page 79. 21. Distinguish the monocotyledons from the dicotyledons in as many different kinds of flowers as you can find. 22. Locate the nectar guides and nectaries, if any, in barberry, buttercup, toadflax, catalpa, horse-chestnut, nasturtium, and phlox. 23. Decide whether the following were produced by hypogynous or epigynous flowers : apple, orange, banana, pear, cranberry, olive, and tomato. 24. Make a collection of seeds to show as many methods of seed dispersal as possible. Visit the nearest museum for other examples. 25. Find the two cotyledons in the bean and the single one in the corn. Examine other seeds to discover whether they are monocotyledons or dicotyledons. In which seeds do you find endosperm ? References Atkinson, " College Botany." Bergen and Caldwell, "Practical Botany." Bergen and Davis, "Principles of Botany." Campbell, " University Text-Book of Botany." Clute, " Laboratory Botany for the High School." Coulter, Barnes, and Cowles, "Textbook of Botany." Green, "Vegetable Physiology." Stevens, " Plant Anatomy." CHAPTER VI THE ELEMENTS NEEDED BY PLANTS Source of the elements. The chemical elements indispensable to plants are ten in number ; namely, oxygen, hydrogen, nitro- gen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, iron, sulphur, phosphorus, and carbon. Several others have been found in plants, but these have been proved unnecessary by growing plants to maturity in media in which these elements were lacking. Al- though the ten elements indicated are all essential, most of them are taken in very minute quantities. The small amount of ashes left when wood is burned represents the mineral matter taken up by the plant in forming it, and much of this is likely to be silicon and other elements that are nonessen- tial. Very little is known of the part played by some of the essential minerals in the economy of the plant. Possibly their presence acts simply as a stimulant for various plant processes. The only element taken entirely from the air is carbon. Oxy- gen is taken from the air for respiration, but that used in making food is taken combined with hydrogen as soil water. All the other elements are derived from the soil, in which they exist as compounds and not as single elements. These com- pounds are usually chlorides, carbonates, sulphates, phos- phates, and nitrates. In most of these there is considerable oxygen, the termination ate in the names of the compounds indicating its presence. These materials are dissolved out of the soil by the soil water and carried into the plant by osmosis. Selective absorption. Analysis of the ash of plants has shown that all the species of a given area do not contain the same proportion of the different minerals, though growing under 95 96 AGRONOMY exactly the same conditions and absorbing the same soil water. Clover when growing with barley may take up five or six times as much lime as the barley does, while the latter takes up eighteen times as much silica as the clover. Similar differences in the absorption of food materials are found in other plants. It is as if each plant exercised a conscious selection. Such a condition, however, is to be explained on purely physical grounds by what is known as selective absorption. When minute quantities of any mineral are dissolved in the soil water, they will pass into the plant by osmosis, but in every instance each substance in the water acts with reference to similar substances in the plant as if it were the only element concerned. It fol- lows, therefore, that if the plant happens to be using a certain substance, the depletion of the supply in the cells will induce more of it to filter in ; but if the plant has no use for it, the density of the solution for this particular substance on both sides of the cell wall soon becomes equal and the osmotic action with reference to it ceases. Plants cannot exclude poisons and other harmful or useless substances when suffi- ciently diluted by the soil water. Use of water to the plant. In addition to carrying the dis- solved minerals into the plant, water forms a very essential part of the plant food, maintains the turgor of the cells and thus keeps the plant in shape, is the medium in which all the vital processes of the plant go on, aids in the transfer of food within the plant, and, finally, by its evaporation, serves to cool the plant and keep the cell sap denser than the soil water. The amount of water transpired by growing plants is remark- able. It is estimated that for every pound of dry matter pro- duced by ordinary crops, from 250 to 400 pounds of water is transpired, while mustard is said to require 900 pounds of water for each pound of dry matter. A healthy apple tree has been estimated to transpire 35,000 pounds of water during the growing season. A moist spot may be drained through THE ELEMENTS NEEDED BY PLANTS 97 the simple expedient of planting such water-loving species as willow and cottonwood in the vicinity. A great part of the living plant is water. Turnips, melons, and the like contain more than 90 per cent of water, and even in air-dry plants the amount is seldom less than 10 per cent. The amount of water may differ greatly in different parts of the same plant ; thus the flesh of the watermelon, peach, plum, and the like contain much more water than the seeds or the vegetative parts of the specimen. Root pressure. Most of the water given off by plants escapes through the stomata as water vapor, but occasionally, as at the close of a warm day in summer, the roots may continue to absorb more than the leaves can evaporate in the cool air of evening. This excess moisture may appear on the leaves as minute glob- ules or even larger drops of water. Such excretion of water is called guttation, and the force exerted by the roots in send- ing it upward is root pressure. In some plants this force is very great. In the birch it is sufficient to hold up a column of water more than eighty feet high. It is root pressure that causes grapes to " bleed " when trimmed in spring, and the same force makes the sap run from wounds in trees. The drops of water to be seen on the leaves of such plants as nasturtium in the early morning are due to root pressure, and so is much of what passes for dew on grassy areas. Often the roots of weeds cut down by the hoe will continue to send up water for some time and show, by a moist spot in the dry surface soil, where each plant stood. Carbon dioxide. The gas, carbon dioxide, though found in the atmosphere in so small an amount as three parts in ten thousand, is nevertheless the only source of the carbon in plants. In a ton of dry wood at least a thousand pounds is carbon, all of which has been derived from the air. The carbon in our hard and soft coals, peat, and the like was stored up in the same way and from the same source in other days. This 98 AGRONOMY element is the characteristic element of all animal and plant life, as silicon is of the mineral kingdom, but the carbon fixed in any form of organic life is only one stage in a constant cycle of changes. Upon the death of the organism it is again united with oxygen by the processes of decay and liberated as carbon dioxide, only to be selected by new plants and formed into starch and plant tissues again. Though forming so small a proportion of the air, it is nevertheless estimated that there are 3,400,000,000,000 tons of it in the atmosphere more than 25 tons for each acre of soil. In plants and animals carbon is most frequently found united with hydrogen and oxygen to form carbohydrates, a carbohydrate being defined as a substance consisting of these three elements, with the hydrogen and oxygen in the proportions in which they form water. Starch, sugar, wood, and cellulose are all carbohydrates. Nitrogen. Four fifths of the air is nitrogen, but ordinary plants cannot use it. Their supply is derived almost entirely from the nitrogen in the humus of the soil. A few plants, to be described later, are able to make use of atmospheric nitro- gen, but the rest use nitrogen only in the form of nitrates ; that is, nitrogen combined with other elements, such as calcium, potassium, magnesium, sodium, and the like. One of the chief uses of these latter elements to plants seems to lie in their ability to combine with nitrogen in a form that the plants can use. Nitrogen is one of the elements most frequently lacking in soils, though there are not less than 35,000 tons in the air over each acre worth about ten million dollars at present prices if it were only available for plants. Nitrogen intensifies the color of plants, increases the growth of leaves and stems, and, when abundant, may hinder seed formation by favoring growth processes. Some grain crops, when supplied with plenty of nitrogen, grow so luxuriantly that the stems are unable to support the weight of the plant. Nitrogen is also necessary for the formation of protoplasm and all other proteins. THE "ELEMENTS NEEDED BY PLANTS 99 Calcium and magnesium. Calcium and magnesium, which are much alike, are most familiar to us in limestone and dolo- mite. In addition to being useful in forming compounds with nitrogen that the plant can use, these elements form unions with various acids in the plant which would otherwise be harmful. Calcium is an important part of the chlorophyll and nucleus, and promotes the hardiness of plants. On soils con- taining much calcium or lime, plants endure drought and frost much better than in soils in which it is lacking. Certain plants, such as alfalfa, clover, peas, and beans, are often known as lime plants because they cannot exist in soils deficient in this element. Spinach, beets, lettuce, and many others cannot grow without lime. On the other hand, many plants of sandy and boggy soils are so sensitive to lime that they cannot endure even small amounts in the soil water. Magnesium is important in forming seeds, and its absence may not be noticed until flowers and fruits fail to develop. While absolutely essential to plant growth, magnesium in the absence of lime acts like a poison. Calcium is usually more abundant than magnesium in leaves and stems, but in seeds the ratio is usually reversed. Potassium and phosphorus. Potassium is supposed to aid in the production and transportation of the carbohydrates and to reduce the acidity of cell sap. It increases the turgidity of the cell and hastens the ripening of wood and fruit. It also increases the plant's resistance to frost and is reputed to deepen the color of flowers and fruits. Certain plants contain so much potassium or potash that they are called potash plants. Phos- phorus is associated with the production of proteins, and its lack prevents the development of seeds. Fleshy roots may also con- tain much potassium. When soils are deficient in this element the addition of sodium is followed by renewed plant growth. Sulphur and iron. Sulphur and iron, so frequently found together in nature, are necessary constituents of protoplasm. Iron is also essential to the formation of chlorophyll in plants. 100 AGRONOMY Chlorine, silicon, and others. Small amounts of chlorine, silicon, sodium, manganese, aluminum, and other minerals are usually found in the ash of plants. They are present in most soils and, being dissolved in the soil water, flow into the plant with it. Silicon is often abundant in the older, denser parts of plants, and the flinty exterior of scouring rushes and grass stems is due to it. The " shells " of diatoms and the stems of certain scouring rushes contain so much silicon or silica that the organic parts may be burned or dissolved out, leaving a perfect skeleton of the mineral. Silica, however, does not appear to be essential to the life of the plant. It was once thought that it was necessary to give strength to the stems of grasses and other plants, but this is shown to be a mistake by the fact that silica is often many times more abundant in the leaves of plants than in their stems. Some regard chlorine as essential, since it is usually present in the plant. PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. Take two geranium leaves and place one in fresh water and the other in a 10 per cent salt solution for half an hour. Explain the dif- ference in the two. 2. AVeigh a good-sized potato and thoroughly dry it by heating in an oven. Weigh again. What per cent of moisture did it contain ? Place in a crucible and heat to redness to drive off the organic matter. What per cent is ash ? 3. Thoroughly water a pot of young oat seedlings and turn a bell jar over them. Account for the drops of water that soon appear on the tips of the leaves. The same experiment may be performed with nas- turtium or fuchsia plants if oats are not at hand. 4. Clover hay may yield three tons to the acre. How many inches of rainfall would be needed to supply the necessary moisture if none were wasted and the plants used 250 pounds of water in producing each pound of dry matter? References Hopkins, " Soil Fertility and Permanent Agriculture." Snyder, " Chemistry of Animals and Plants." CHAPTER VII FERTILIZERS The available mineral in the soil. The elements needed by plants exist in the soil in very unequal proportions. Some are so abundant as to be practically inexhaustible ; others occur in such small quantities, or are so slowly weathered out of the soil, that cropping for a few years may deplete the supply to a point where more must be added before the land will again be fully productive. It has been estimated that in the upper seven inches of certain soils there is sufficient iron to produce a hundred-bushel corn crop every year for two hundred thou- sand years, and enough calcium, sulphur, and magnesium to produce such crops for from two thousand to fifty thousand years, but only enough nitrogen and phosphorus for from fifty to seventy years. Other soils may differ as to the amounts of each element they contain, but the proportions are likely to be about as given here. It is thus seen that the soil is not an indestructible asset, but that it may easily wear out by having all its store of certain elements abstracted by growing crops. Nor is it necessary that an element be entirely lacking in a soil to render it unfertile. If the element be in a form that is not available to plants, the effect is the same as if it were entirely absent. Toxic substances in the soil. Occasionally an analysis of the soil may show that it contains sufficient food materials for good crops, yet the plants that grow upon it do not flourish because of certain substances excreted by the roots of the plants themselves, which seem to be toxic or poisonous to that particular crop. When crops of one kind are grown for 101 102 AGRONOMY several years in succession upon the same land, for instance, the yield begins to decrease long before the available mineral food has been used up. Thrifty crops of the same kind growing elsewhere, if watered with extracts from such soils, give every evidence of having been poisoned. When supplied with cer- tain chemical elements, however, they regain their health. Many wild plants exhibit similar peculiarities, and their Photograph by the University of Illinois FIG. 83. Wheat crop averaging 9.6 bushels to the acre The soil has been limed and a crop of legumes plowed under. Compare with the following figure inability to grow in the same soil for any length of time is attributed to an increase of the toxic elements. After growing for a year or so in a given spot the old parts die, while the new ones move out from the center in a constantly widening circle known as a " fairy ring." Such rings are more common in fungi, lichens, and ferns, but they also occur in flowering plants. Most of these poisonous excretions appear to be harmful only to the species that produced them, which explains one of the benefits of a rotation of crops. By growing different crops on FERTILIZERS 103 the land the toxic substances excreted by one kind have time to escape or become neutralized before the same crop is again grown there. In some cases, however, the excretions from one set of plants seem harmful to others. The butternut tree has been found antagonistic to the shrubby cinquefoil that some- times, infests the pastures in New England and elsewhere, Photograph by the University of Illinois FIG. 84. Wheat crop averaging 21.5 bushels to the acre This wheat was grown on land adjoining that shown in preceding figure. In ad- dition to lime and legumes the soil has had an application of phosphorus while a similar antagonism seems to exist between grass and certain fruit and shade trees. Additions of various substances to the soil seem to neutralize these poisonous excretions of plants and enable them to continue in vigorous growth. Some contend that this is the only value to be derived from fertiliz- ers. Whatever the reason for adding fertilizers, the fact re- mains that good crops cannot long be produced without them. Nor will an excess of one needed element compensate for the 104 AGRONOMY lack of another ; a sufficient amount of each must be present. Often supplying a single lacking element in the soil will more than double the returns from the crop. Elements that may be lacking. Soils are seldom deficient in sulphur, iron, or magnesium, and calcium is usually abundant enough, though it may sometimes be lacking even in soils de- rived from the weathering of limestone rocks, because it is easily dissolved and carried off by the water. Phosphorus, nitro- gen, and potash, however, belong to a different category. They are seldom abundant in any soil and are so rapidly removed by crops that the lack of one of them is usually the cause of a decreased yield. Soils may be analyzed by the chemist and the exact amount of each mineral constituent determined, but there are various ways of making the plants themselves tell what essential element is lacking. One of the best methods of determining this is to make ten plots, side by side, in soil as nearly uniform as possible, and add to each plot a different fertilizer or combination of fertilizers containing the elements likely to be lacking. The usual arrangement is as follows : Plot 1. Nitrogen as nitrate of soda at the rate of 160 Ib. to the acre, or dried blood at the rate of 700 Ib. to the acre. Plot 2. Potash as muriate of potash at the rate of 80 Ib. to the acre, or potassium sulphate at the rate of 200 Ib. to the acre. Plot 3. Phosphorus as acid phosphate at the rate of 320 Ib. to the acre, or bone meal at the rate of 200 Ib. to the acre. Plot 4. Calcium as lime at the rate of 40 bu. to the acre. Plot 5. Nothing. This plot serves as a check for comparison. Plot 6. Nitrogen and potash in the proportions given above. Plot 7. Nitrogen and phosphorus in the proportions given above. Plot 8. Potash and phosphorus in the proportions given above. Plot 9. Potash, phosphorus, and nitrogen in proportions as above. Plot 10. Same as Plot 9 with the addition of lime. The crops to be tested should be sown across all the plots, and will soon show which element is deficient by a more thrifty growth in the plot containing this element. It is desirable that FERTILIZERS 105 different crops be used in the test, since the lacking element may not be the same for each. In any soil the need for cal- cium may be easily discovered by treating part of a field with lime and comparing the treated area with the part not treated. The lime should be applied at the rate of twenty bushels or more to the acre. When red clover and alfalfa grow well on a given soil, this is a good indication that it contains sufficient calcium. A growth of mosses indicates a lack of this element. Sources of the needed elements. It is only in exceptional cases that the cultivator concerns himself about any element in the soil except potash, nitrogen, and phosphorus. These three are seldom abundant, and the farmer always adds fer- tilizers containing them when they can be cheaply obtained. Stable manure is called a " complete " fertilizer because it con- tains portions of all three. Before the advent of the white man the Indian had discovered the value of fish as a ferti- lizer. Near the coast it was the custom to place a fish in each hill of corn. In many places fish is still used for fertilizer. Several other available sources of the necessary elements exist. Nitrogen is found in guano, fish guano, dried blood, slaughter- house waste, bone meal, linseed and cottonseed meal, ammo- nium sulphate (a product of gas works), potassium nitrate, and sodium nitrate, or Chile saltpeter. The sodium nitrate is the most soluble. Potash is found in wood ashes, muriate of pot- ash, sulphate of potash, and kainit. Phosphorus occurs in bones and bone meal, phosphate rock, and Thomas slag, which is a by-product in the manufacture of steel. When necessary to apply calcium it may be in the form of ground limestone, quick- lime, marl, gypsum, shells, and bones. In applying fertilizers it is well to remember that some are more soluble than others and, applied in too great quantity, may easily make the soil water so dense as to kill or greatly retard the plants it was designed to help. Other fertilizers, becoming available more slowly, may not show their effects upon the crops until the second season. 106 AGRONOMY Manures. The word manure comes from the Latin word manus meaning " hand." The reason for the derivation is seen when it is known that to manure originally meant to dig or culti- vate by hand. Thus in Defoe's " Robinson Crusoe," written in 1719, we find the expression, " The ground that I had manured, or dug up, for them was not great." Digging about the plant was early found to make it more thrifty, and the old farmer's maxim that " tillage is manure " is true in a more literal sense than he perhaps imagines. When it was found that adding various matters to the soil had the same effect upon the plants as cultivation, these substances soon gained the name of " manures." Green manures. Frequently the cultivator plows under a growing crop for the purpose of adding humus and its con- tained nitrogen to the soil. Such additions are known as green manures. Barley, turnips, and similar crops, and even weeds, may be used for this purpose, but clover, alfalfa, and other legumes are usually relied upon. These latter bear upon their roots numerous small nodules containing bacteria which are capable of fixing atmospheric nitrogen in the soil, and are therefore especially valuable for such purposes. Legumes actually leave the soil in better condition than they find it. Nitrification. Undoubtedly the most important single ele- ment of plant food is nitrogen. This element is not found in combination in the rocks because it is too inert to readily combine with other elements, and the large quantities in the air are not available to ordinary plants, though some species are believed to be able to absorb nitrogen from the ammonia in the air through their leaves. Small amounts of both am- monia and nitric acid may be added to the soil by being brought down from the air in rain water or snow and converted into plant food by the soil bacteria, but the amount thus added to the soil is too insignificant to make it important as a source FERTILIZERS 107 of nitrogen to plants. Practically all the nitrogen used by plants comes from the humus in the soil. Nor can the plant use all the combinations of nitrogen derived from humus. In the soil this element may exist as ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, but plants can use only the nitrates. Bacteria and nitrification. The changing of nitrogenous substances in the humus to forms that are available to plants is accomplished by bacteria, of which there are some fifty million in every cubic centimeter of rich soil. These bacteria are the smallest of living things. They are most numerous near the surface of the soil, but are found in lessened numbers as far down as the lowest layers of the subsoil. Like other plants, they need warmth, moisture, and oxygen for growth, but, unlike them, must have organic food. They are very intolerant of acids and will not live in sour soils. In bogs and other water-soaked soils the absence of air pre- vents the growth of bacteria, the soil becomes sour by the accumulation of acids from the dead vegetation, and the organic material, instead of being turned to nitrates, forms peat. The addition of lime to such soils corrects the acidity, but draining is necessary to promote the activities of the bacteria. The fertility of the soil is then effected exactly as it would be by the addition of more nitrogen. Three sets of bacteria are concerned in the work of nitrifi- cation. The first group simply turns the nitrogenous parts of the humus to ammonia, a process which is often called ammonification. In this process the animal and vegetable matter in the soil serves as food for the bacteria which may be said to digest it, excreting ferments, or enzymes, for the purpose. Considerable carbon dioxide is also liberated in this process, and this serves to further weather the soil particles. The ammonia produced by the bacteria combines with soil water to form ammonium hydroxide (NH 4 OH), and at this point a new group of bacteria, known as Nitrosococcus, turns 108 A(iKNOMV the ammonium hydroxide into nitrous acid and hydrogen by the addition of an atom of oxygen (NH 4 OH + O = HNO 2 + H 4 ). The nitrous acid combining with various minerals in the soil form nitrites, and a third set of bacteria, of the genus Nitro- bacter, now adds another atom of oxygen to this compound, forming the nitrates used by plants. Although nitrites and nitrates differ principally in the possession of one more atom of oxygen by the latter, plants seem able to use only the nitrates. Nitrobacter, so far as known, is the only bacterium that can turn nitrites into nitrates. Nitrogen fixation. Certain plants known as legumes, of which the bean, pea, clover, and alfalfa are examples, have the power to fix atmospheric nitrogen, or, rather, they have set up a partnership with bac- teria which are able to do so. In this partner- ship the bacteria (Pseu- domonas radicicola), in return for the carbohy- drates which they need, give to the legumes the nitrogen which they are able to take from the air. Such a partnership as this is called symbiosis, and the part- ners are known as symbionts. Certain algae in the soil seem also to have entered into symbiotic relations with bacteria for the purpose of getting nitrogen. By carefully digging up any legume and washing off the soil clinging to the roots the nodules which the bacteria inhabit are easily seen. Another bacterium, Azotobacter chroococcum, appears to be able to fix atmospheric nitrogen by itself, oxidizing carbohydrates in the soil in the process. The fact that lands allowed to lie without cultivation, or fallow, for a time, increase in nitrogen content is attributed to the presence of this and other bacteria. The FIG. 85. Nodules on the roots of a legume FEETILIZEES 109 fixing of nitrogen, however, cannot go on without lime. Owing to the power of their bacterial symbiont to fix nitrogen from the air, legumes are able to thrive in soils too poor in nitrogen to support other crops. In sandy regions, where the loose and open soil permits the loss of nitrates almost as fast as formed, legumes are usually abundant. Mycorrhizas. In a considerable number of plants, among which are various trees and shrubs, the older parts of the roots are inhabited by fungi known as mycorrhizas, which enter into sym- biosis with them. Such associations are common, or possibly the rule, among woody plants, but are espe- cially abundant in the heath family, to which the rhododendron, cranberry, and blueberry belong. The mycor- rhizas extend out into the soil and function like root hairs. They appear to have the power to fix nitrogen from the humus in the soil and ab- sorb sugars derived from fallen leaves by other soil bacteria. Certain flow- ering plants, like the Indian pipe and the pinesap, which lack chlorophyll, ab- sorb all their food in this way. Mycor- rhizas are also frequently associated with plants that transpire slowly; otherwise these plants would find difficulty in getting sufficient food. Soil inoculation. In many soils it is difficult to get a good crop of legumes because the necessary bacteria for symbiosis do not occur there. Experiments seem to show that each species of legume, if it does not have its own special bacterial species, has at least a special form with which it is associated, FIG. 86. The snow plant (Barcodes sanguined) A saprophytic heathwort (allied to the Indian pipe, Monotropa uniflora) from the Pacific Coast region 110 AGRONOMY and when this is missing it cannot thrive. In some cases, however, the form of bacteria associated with one species may be gradually induced to form partnerships with another. When the necessary bacteria are lacking, the soil may be inocu- lated by a few bushels of soil brought from another field in which the desired crop grows well. This is scattered over the field at the time of planting exactly as one would scatter seeds. In a few instances the bacteria of two species seem to be interchangeable. Fields in which red clover or alfalfa will not grow because their bacterium is absent, may be made to produce these crops by inoculating with soil brought from the nearest patch of wild sweet clover. In the same way the bacterial symbiont of cowpeas may be supplied from soils in which the wild partridge pea occurs. Several attempts, more or less successful, have been made by the national govern- ment and by private parties to send out dormant cultures of bacteria for use with certain crops. The seeds of the crop desired are inoculated with the bacteria before sowing. In the case of many cultivated species of legumes, and possibly all wild ones, the bacteria with which they form associations are transported into new soils by clinging to the seeds. Denitrifying bacteria. Along with the bacteria in the soil which turn nitrogenous substances to nitrates are found other bacteria which reverse the process, and, by extracting the oxygen from nitrates, set free the nitrogen. This process goes on most rapidly in soils which are not properly aerated. Stable manure, left in piles, loses much nitrogen in this way. When plenty of oxygen is present the bacteria do not attack the nitrates. Harmful organisms in the soil. As we have seen, the living elements of the soil are quite as important as its mineral constituents. In addition to the nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria and the nitrogen-fixing bacteria, there are many yeasts, algse, fungi, germs of plant diseases, and hosts of FERTILIZERS 111 protozoa. The protozoa are one-celled animals that feed upon the helpful bacteria, often to such an extent as to effect the fertility of the soil. These may be killed or reduced in numbers by burning or boiling the soil, or by treating it with disinfectants. Such treatment does not appear to materially harm the bacteria. The increase in fertility in soils burned over is attributed to the fact that the burning killed the protozoa. Florists usually bake the soil in which young seeds are to be sown, or they may pour boiling water over it, and in this way get rid of the harmful organisms in it. Limiting factors in plant growth. The production of the maximum crop is thus seen to depend on many things besides a sufficient amount of the necessary chemical elements in the soil. The temperature may be too high or too low, there may be too little sunshine at some critical period of plant growth, or the soil itself may contain too much or too little moisture. Any unfavorable condition at once becomes the limiting factor in plant growth, and changing this condition frequently results in doubling or trebling the crop. In the West water is often the limiting factor, but under irrigation or in regions of sufficient rainfall the lack of some mineral constituent of the soil is likely to prevent the maximum yield. The presence of insects or plant diseases may also affect the crop, and thus the limiting factor may even change from year to year, with favorable or unfavorable seasons. By supplying the soil with sufficient fertilizers and regulating by irriga- tion, drainage, and cultivation the amount of moisture in it, the farmer renders favorable such conditions as can be con- trolled, which fortunately are among the most important. The photographs on pages 102 and 103 illustrate very clearly the change that may result from adding a single chemical element to the soil. Here the application of a fertilizer containing phosphorus had the effect of immediately adding nearly twelve bushels an acre to the crop. 112 AGRONOMY PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. Make an expedition to the fields and woods for evidences of "fairy rings." 2. In the experiment garden make a test of the soil as directed on page 104. 3. Make a collection of all of the commercial fertilizers. Label. 4. Make a list of all the legumes, cultivated or wild, that can be found in the school garden. 5. Make a list of the wild legumes of the region. 6. Make up an extract of rich soil by soaking it in water. Put a drop of the turbid water on a slide and examine with the high power of the microscope for the bacteria. 7. Dig up clover or other legumes and look for the nodules on their roots. 8. Crush a nodule and examine it under the microscope. 9. What is the limiting factor of plant growth in your region? References Hopkins, " Soil Fertility and Permanent Agriculture." Roberts, "The Fertility of the Land." Voorhees, "Fertilizers." Warren, " Elements of Agriculture." Farmers' Bulletins 16. Leguminous Plants. 31. Alfalfa or Lucerne. 44. Commercial Fertilizers. 77. The Liming of Soils. 89. Cowpeas. 123. Red Clover Seed. 144. Rotation of Crops. 192. Barnyard Manure. 237. Lime and Clover. 245. Renovation of Worn-out Soils. 278. Leguminous Crops for Green Manuring. Bureau of Plant Industry 71. Soil Inoculation for Legumes. 173. Seasonal Nitrification as influenced by Crops and Tillage. CHAPTER VIII THE PLANT IN RELATION TO TEMPERATURE, LIGHT, AND MOISTURE Growth temperature. The range of temperature that vege- tation in the aggregate can endure is remarkable. Seeds in the dormant condition have been exposed to the temperature of liquid air, many degrees below zero, without impairing their vitality ; and, on the other hand, some algse can exist in hot springs where the temperature of the water reaches nearly to the boiling point. No single species, however, can endure anything like this range of temperature. Ordinary plants are balanced midway between two rather close extremes of heat and cold, growing Well so long as neither is too closely approached, going into a dormant condition when brought nearer, and dying when either extreme is reached. Differ- ences in temperature are among the principal factors control- ling the distribution of plants. Elevated country and mountain ranges act as barriers to the spread of tropical plants, because the upper regions are cold, and a stretch of warm lowland may prevent the migration of alpine vegetation from one summit to another; in fact, there is scarcely a species that is not sharply limited in some part of its range by temperature. A temperature of 122 above zero is fatal to most land plants in the growing condition, and aquatics usually perish at somewhat lower temperatures. Plants and plant parts gen- erally can endure the greatest amounts of heat and cold when they contain the least water. In seeds, developed by the plants for carrying them over unfavorable seasons, the protoplasm is brought to the resting and more resistant condition by the 113 114 ACRONOMY exclusion of most of the moisture. Some hardy arctic plants, however, can be frozen and thawed several times a day during the growing season without being injured. The plants of a given region have their own peculiarities in the matter of the temperature at which growth processes begin. In the arctics certain seaweeds thrive in water that seldom rises above 32, and are easily killed by temperatures a few degrees higher. Most plants of the temperate zone will begin to grow at about 41 above zero, and some, such as oats, wheat, rye, and peas, can make some growth when the temperature is just above the freezing point; but the best tem- perature for germination is between 60 and 70, and many species, even in the colder parts of the world, will not start to grow until such temperatures are reached. Up to a certain point heat seems to stimulate growth processes just as it does chemical reactions. In the tropics the temperature at which seeds germinate is usually ten or twelve degrees higher than that required for more northern plants, the most desirable being between 70 and 80. The seeds of many tropical species, when planted in our hothouses, must be given a temperature above 90 to get the best results. These facts explain why some seeds are planted earlier than others. Peas and spinach are cool-weather plants and may be planted as soon as the ground can be worked in spring; indeed, unless the season is fairly cool these crops do not do well. Corn and tomatoes, on the other hand, which came originally from the tropics, must wait until both the soil and air are thoroughly warmed. Hardy and tender plants. As regards the sensitiveness of the plants to cold, gardeners are accustomed to group them as hardy, half-hardy, and tender species. Hardy plants are those that endure the winter season unharmed. The perennial plants of any region are necessarily hardy plants. Half-hardy plants are those that need artificial protection during the winter, though in mild seasons they may survive without this. TEMPERATURE, LIGHT, AND MOISTURE 115 Tender plants are those that die as soon as frost comes. These are general terms, however, and indicate relative con- ditions only, since a plant that is perfectly hardy in one region may be only half hardy or even tender in a colder one. On the other hand, the trees that are deciduous in cold regions may become evergreen when removed to warm regions. Vio- lets, which flower for only a few weeks in spring in the Northern states, may bloom throughout the autumn, winter, and spring near the Gulf. Cardinal points. As has been indicated, there are three important temperature points for every species of plant : the minimum, or lowest point at which growth processes can pro- ceed ; the maximum, or highest point at which growth is possi- ble ; and the optimum, or most favorable temperature. These points are called cardinal points, or the upper, middle, and lower zeros. They are not the same for all plants, and in general are higher for tropical plants than for those of temperate regions. Each species may also have a different maximum, minimum, and optimum for its vegetative and reproductive processes. In such cases the cardinal points for growth are usually higher than those for reproduction. The large number of species that flower in early spring, often before the leaves have appeared, are instances of this fact. Acclimatization. Some plants of tropical regions can be induced to grow much farther north than they occur in nature, and the same is true with respect to northern plants in more southern regions. The adaptation of plants to such conditions is called acclimatization. Complete acclimatization is possible only with plants that are able to make new adjustments of their cardinal points, raising or lowering them to fit the new conditions. Sometimes the vegetative point may be thus changed, but not that for reproduction, in which case the plant may produce plenty of stems and leaves, but no flowers or fruits. Our most persistent and successful weeds are largely 116 AGKONOMY so because of the facility with which they are able to make new adjustments of their cardinal points. Frost. The air always contains some moisture, and the warmer the air the more it can contain. When it contains all that it will hold at a given temperature, it is said to be satu- rated. If the temperature of moist air be lowered beyond the saturation point, some of the moisture has to be dropped. If this occurs in the air, the dropped moisture is called rain or fog ; if deposited on the earth, it is dew or frost. The point at which the water begins to condense out of the air is called the dew point. Frost differs from dew only in that it is depos- ited at temperatures below the freezing point of water. There is always danger of frost when the weather report predicts temperatures eight or ten degrees above freezing, since in any given locality the temperature may fall a few degrees below that predicted. A still clear night favors the formation of frost by promoting the cooling of the earth and air by radia- tion. When the sky is cloudy, the clouds, like a blanket, keep in the heat. A fog at night, or much smoke or dust in the air, protects in the same way. A windy night may also protect from frost by moving the cold air about and keeping it from settling down in any one place. Locality and frost. Danger from frost is not confined to northern latitudes. In any region where the temperature goes below the freezing point there is danger from late spring and early autumn frosts. The location, however, often has much to do with immunity from frost. In the vicinity of large bodies of water frosts are often long delayed in autumn because, as the temperature lowers, the water gives off the heat absorbed during the summer and thus keeps the surrounding air warm. In rooms or cellars where the temperature might fall below the freezing point, this may be prevented by exposing therein tubs of water which will give off heat in the same way. Cold air is heavier than warm air and tends to settle in the hollows 117 and displace the warm air there. In consequence frost often visits the bottom lands long before it touches the hilltops, because the latter are nightly bathed in the warm air crowded up from below. For this reason farmers usually plant the late crops of buckwheat on the hillsides. In certain valleys there is a zone part way up the slope, called the verdant zone or thermal belt, in which late spring and early autumn frosts are almost unknown. This zone is due to the movement of the warm air out of the valley at night. Other inclosed valleys drained by a stream may be nearly exempt from frost because the cold air flows away over the stream. This distribution of temperature has a curious effect upon the distribution of plants. Northern plants are usually found farthest south in the val- leys, and southern plants farthest north on the hillsides, exactly the opposite of what at first glance one would assume to be the natural occurrence. How cold kills plants. Some tropical plants are so sensitive to cold that they may be killed by exposure to temperatures several degrees above the freezing point, but usually plants are killed by the freezing of the protoplasm or the sap within the cells. Freezing of the cell sap takes place at a tempera- ture somewhat lower than 32, since water containing dissolved substances requires a greater degree of cold to congeal it than does pure water. Often it is not the mere cold that kills plants, but rather the withdrawal of moisture from the cell by the formation of ice crystals in the intercellular spaces. In such cases the effects of cold are exactly the same as those of dry- ing. Otherwise hardy plants are often killed in winter by the heaving due to the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil and the consequent breaking of the roots. Other effects of cold. In plants that are not killed outright by the cold, the lowered temperature may injure the less resistant parts. Some plants, such as the catalpa, grape, rasp- berry, and sumac, continue to grow until stopped by the cold, 118 AGRONOMY and the stems do not form strong buds at the tip. In these the buds and stems are usually killed back several inches annually. Flower buds that are formed in autumn are often killed by the cold, especially by a cold interval in late spring after they have started into growth. Flowers, of course, are sensitive to cold and may fail to set fruit even if the temper- ature does not fall to the freezing point. In severe winters the trunks of trees are often split open by the cold. Another effect of the cold is seen in the improvement in the flavor of certain vegetables such as salsify and parsnips. How plants avoid the effects of cold. Most perennial plants have devised various ways of protecting their more delicate parts from the cold. A large number have developed the geophilous, or subterranean, habit, and at the approach of cold weather the parts above ground die and the life of the plant retreats to the underground parts. Examples are seen in the species that produce bulbs, conns, tubers, rhizomes, and sim- ilar structures. The same arrangement also protects from drought. Bulbous plants are always plentiful in dry regions. Plants above ground have other means of protection. The trees protect the living cambium by a thick and nearly water- proof bark, and their buds are protected by scales, hairs, and varnish. Most of the broad-leaved trees drop their leaves to avoid transpiration, but the pines and their allies with needle- shaped leaves that do not transpire much are not obliged to do so. The twigs and stems of many plants have a dense coating of scales, epidermal hairs, or wax, as an additional protection. How effective epidermis and bark are in retaining moisture in the plant may be seen by comparing the behavior of a peeled apple or potato with that of one in its natural state. Herbs that retain their leaves adopt the rosette habit, and thus their leaves, close to the earth, are protected all winter by the dead vegetation and the snow. The majority of these devices, it may be noted, are not so much protections from the cold TEMPERATURE, LIGHT, AND MOISTURE 119 as they are means of avoiding the injuries likely to be caused by sudden changes of temperature. On the other hand, the dark colors of bud scales readily absorb heat in sunshine and F FIG. 87. Epidermal hairs and scales. (Much enlarged) A, mullein; B, geranium; C, deutzia; D, hollyhock ; E, dame's violet; F, shepherd ia may thus increase the temperature of the buds during the cool days of early spring. Artificial protection from the cold. Snow is of such great value as a protection of plants in winter that it is frequently called " the poor man's manure." Winters in which there is little snow are very trying to plants because they are left un- protected and are thus easily heaved by the frost. Man often adds to the natural protection of plants by mulching, shading, 120 AGRONOMY windbreaks, and cold frames. Mn1<-hin .,,r 3 d bl 3 rows H 11 k A vnvrrr. ^ 5- ONION SETS * ro n s SUSH BEANS- 1 . 1 1 1 UCJ^ |-*-v"C 2 rows 131 10 ft. 132 AGRONOMY the longer the better, to permit of the ground being worked more easily. Care must be taken, however, to so arrange the planting with reference to the points of the compass that tall growing plants are not placed where they will shade lower ones. In general, it is well to place nearest the house the salad plants and others that are gathered frequently, leaving the field crops, like potatoes and cabbage, to occupy more distant spots. How to plant. A few plants, such as corn, cucumbers, tomatoes, and pole beans, are planted in hills, but all that, can FIG. 95. Gardening at the Flower Technical High School for Girls, Chicago be grown in drills or rows are so planted to facilitate culti- vation. Care should be taken to have the rows straight and far enough apart to avoid crowding. The proper distances may be learned by consulting the planting table on page 145. To facilitate measurements in the garden, the handle of hoe or rake should be laid off in six-inch sections. The marks can be scratched in the wood with any sharp-pointed instrument and inked, if desired. Straight rows may be secured by means of a garden line, such as masons use, stretched between two stakes. Lawn Lawn Exp'ts Experiments U[ H[ H[ H[ Lawn J H[ H[ HE FIG. 96. Four plans for school gardens on vacant lots 133 134 AGRONOMY When not in use it should be kept with the seeds where it will be ready when more planting is to be done. Seeds must not be planted too deep. In general they should be planted three or four times as deep as their diameters. Seeds whose cotyledons do not rise above the soil may be planted deeper than those whose cotyledons do, and large seeds may be planted deeper than smaller ones. Very small seeds may be simply scattered on the surface and pressed into the soil with a hoe or a piece of board. When sown in light, well-drained soil, the seeds may have the earth firmed over them to induce capillarity, but in wet or heavy soils this should be omitted, else it may be so compacted that delicate plants cannot push through it and the air necessary for germination be excluded. Darkness favors the germination of most seeds, and for this reason, as well as to prevent the drying out or puddling of the surface layer of soil, it is well to mulch newly planted seeds with a light covering of loose straw or lawn clippings through which the young plants easily push their way. Cover- ing the planted seeds with paper or cloth serves the same pur- pose, but in such cases the cover should be removed as soon as the young plants appear. When to plant. The seeds of the hardier plants may be sown as soon as the ground can be worked in spring, or they may even be sown in the autumn and allowed to rest in the soil through the winter. This is the way all the wild species are planted. Other seeds must not be planted until the soil is thoroughly warmed. Several garden plants thrive only in the cool moist days of early spring, and do not grow well if planted later. This is especially true of spinach, cress, radishes, lettuce, and the like. In hot dry weather these plants soon " run to seed." Among the vegetables that are usually planted early are beets, cabbage, cress, lettuce, onions, peas, radishes, salsify, and spinach. These are either cool-season or long-sea- son plants that are not injured by light frosts. Warm-season ( >*" *p O . i : i o c 5 R co i qj K (i, 3 O o 3 ir

B ID 1 ? -g ^ 9 J > 3 t 1 > < C es K K s < C 5 i 5 < > 5 \ i 5 4 1 "2 5! | o 5 ( 14 > o 6 C 3 double rTTH SALS -second cr < si ? ! i i I i ) ! I i t~ o: g RRANTS PARAGU! DISHES 1 H , CO J 2 ! = S -i 1 : SH BEAJ ivag 31 3 < 2 < y 3 5 1 1 i f 5 c 4 P 1 . t t > i 135 136 AGRONOMY plants, such as corn, cucumbers, okra, peppers, and tomatoes, must not be planted outdoors until all danger from frost is past. Autumn seed bed. The seeds of all hardy plants may be sown in autumn and will lie in the earth unharmed until spring. Some will even grow in autumn and go through the cold season as seedlings. Autumn seed sowing has the ad- vantage that it may be done at a time when other work is not crowding, as in spring, and the stay in the soil over winter will aid in softening the seed coats of many species. In autumn, also, fruiting plants are everywhere and seeds are abundant. It is much easier to carry home a dozen plants as seeds than to transport the same number when they have grown for a year or more. The autumn seed bed should be made in a sheltered situation, and when cold weather has come, it should be mulched with some good litter that is free from weed seeds. Germination. The promptness with which the young plants appear above the soil depends upon the kind of seed planted, the temperature of the soil, the amount of moisture present, and various other things. In cold, wet soils seeds of most sorts are slow to germinate, if they grow at all, though a few will sprout at temperatures but slightly above freezing. Increas- ing the temperature, however, hastens germination, and in dry weather soaking the seeds before planting has the same effect. Hardy plants usually do best at temperatures of from 50 to 70, tender plants from 60 to 80, and tropical plants from 75 to 95. In favorable weather from three days to two weeks may elapse between planting and the appearance of the seedlings. Seeds of canna, lotus, honey locust, and some others have testas so hard that they delay germination by ex- cluding moisture and air, but they grow readily when a hole is filed through the testa before planting. Boiling water is some- times poured over such seeds to hasten germination. The GARDEN MAKING 137 seeds of nut trees and our stone fruits have testas so thick that they may remain in the earth for a year or more before growing. In such cases germination may be hastened by cracking the shells or by stratifying the seeds. The latter process consists in plac- ing the seeds in layers in boxes of moist sand or moss and keeping them moist during the winter. The seeds may be kept in a cool cel- lar or buried a foot or more deep in a well- drained spot. Seeds may fail to grow for various reasons. They may be too old, may have been frozen before being thoroughly dried, their testas may exclude oxygen or moisture, or they may have been immature when gath- ered. The seeds of many plants will not grow the same season they are produced, even if surrounded by the most favorable circum- stances. The length of time that good seeds retain their vitality depends somewhat upon the species. A few seeds must be planted almost as soon as ripe if they are to grow at all, while others will remain alive for from two to twenty years. In general, starchy seeds retain 98. A handy receptacle for seeds, labels, and other small things This is easily made and can be carried into the garden whenever planting is to be done 138 AGRONOMY their vitality longer than oily ones. There is no truth, how- ever, in the idea that seeds thousands of years old, found in the pyramids or dug out of Indian graves, will grow. Weed seeds are especially persistent, but few of them can grow after twenty years. In some seeds the age seems to affect the crop, fresh seeds producing more vigorous plants with a tendency to put forth leaves and stems only, while older ones are likely to be more fruitful. Growers of melons prefer seeds several years old for this reason. Seed testing. When a crop is planted upon which much depends, or when for any reason there is doubt about the seeds being good, it is customary to test them before planting. A A B Fi<;. 99. A seed tester, consisting of two soup plates, some sand, and a piece of cloth serviceable seed tester may be made of a dinner plate, a sheet of glass, and two pieces of rather thick cloth cut to fit the plate. The cloths are dipped in water, the excess moisture wrung out, and the seeds to be germinated placed between them. The cloths are placed on the plate and covered with the glass or another plate to keep in the moisture, and the apparatus set away in a warm place. From time to time the seeds are examined and those which have germinated removed. By this means one may very quickly discover what proportion of a given lot of seeds is viable. Wet sand may be used in place of the cloth in the seed tester, if desired. Double cropping. Different crops vary greatly in the time taken to mature. Long-season crops, such as salsify and pars- nips, are planted early in spring, occupy the ground until frost, GARDEN MAKING 139 and are often left in the soil over winter. On the other hand, lettuce, radishes, and the like take but a few weeks to mature, and if such crops are planted together in one part of the gar- den, two and three separate crops may be grown on the same soil in one season. Among the plants most useful for second crops are beans, cress, celery, cabbages, kohl-rabi, lettuce, mustard, radishes, spinach, and turnips. Celery and cabbages used as late crops are started elsewhere and transplanted ; the others are grown from seeds planted where they are to remain. Another method of get- ting two crops from the same soil, often practiced with long-season crops, is to plant together two crops, each of which has different requirements as to light, shade, etc. Pumpkins, tur- nips, and squashes are often planted with corn, and clover with grain crops. Radishes may be planted with salsify, beets, and other slow-grow- ing crops, and help to mark the rows until the other plants have developed. Radishes and lettuce may also be planted between the hills in melon patches, where they will mature before the space is needed by the chief crop. Transplanting. Almost any plant can be transplanted, but some endure such treatment better than others. Plants with strong taproots are more difficult to transplant. In general, FIG. 100. A garden plan which may be used for a school garden or for the home lot AGKONOMY when directions on a seed packet say the seeds should be sown where the plants are wanted, transplanting should not be attempted. There are several advantages, however, to be gained by transplanting. Earlier crops may be produced by starting plants in the house before they can grow out of doors, and transplanting them to the garden when the weather has moderated. Plants that require a long season to come to maturity may also be in- duced to fruit earlier by this means. By starting plants in this way they may be set in the place of those that mature early and a second crop thus secured, or they may be used to fill up gaps in the plantings caused by the depredations of in- sects, plant diseases, or the failure of the seeds to grow. Warm-season plants are usually long- season plants also, and several of these, such as eggplants, peppers, and tomatoes, are always transplanted, thus securing earlier and more abundant crops. Other plants that are able to mature from seed planted in the open ground are usually treated in this way, especially cabbage, cauliflower, and celery. Beets, chard, lettuce, and onions are occasionally transplanted. Transplanting should be done on cool or cloudy days and preferably in the late afternoon. Young plants may be trans- planted as soon as they have developed their second or third leaves. Moving very young plants in this way is called FIG. 101. A transplanting trowel and a dibber A trowel of this kind is often used as a dibber GAKDEN MAKING 141 pricking out. The plants should be taken up with as many of the roots as possible, and should not be allowed to become dry by exposure to the sun and air. The holes in which they are planted may be made with a pointed instrument of wood or metal called a dibber. After the plants are placed in the holes the dibber is again thrust into the ground an inch or more from them and used to crowd the soil against them, thus mak- ing it firm. If the weather is very dry, the plants should be watered after setting, and protected from the wind and the direct rays of the sun until again estab- lished. Excessive transpiration may be reduced or avoided by removing some of the leaves or by cutting off part of each leaf. The latter operation is called shearing. Some growers are in the -habit of allowing cabbage and tomato plants to wilt before FlG - 102 - A sheared plant resetting, with the idea that by so doing the plants will develop new roots instead of endeavoring to revive the old ones. These species are quite tenacious of life and survive much abuse. Frequently cabbage plants for transplanting are simply pulled up from the seed bed. Inducing plants to fruit. It is natural that all mature peren- nial plants should flower and fruit annually, but it is a well- known fact that many do not do so. Fruiting is a very exhausting process. Annuals are killed outright by it, while in perennials a heavy crop of fruit may so depress the vitality of the plant as to make it impossible for it to bear at all the following season. When a plant sets more fruits than it should bear, some of them should be removed. On the other hand, in all plants in which great development of the vegetative parts is desired, it is customary to remove all the flowering shoots and fruits as soon as they appear. Thus we pick off the berries of asparagus and pinch out the flower stalks of rhubarb. Annuals may be made to take on a perennial character by 142 AGRONOMY removing the flower buds as fast as they form. If one desires flowers and fruit, however, all efforts should be bent toward aiding the plant to store up reserve food, since the more food it has, the likelier it is to bloom. Fruiting is really a device of the plant for self-preservation, and whatever threatens the growth processes may serve to bring it about. A plant injured by lightning or defoliated by insects is likely to spring into bloom again even in autumn. Pinching back the tips, remov- ing some of the roots, withholding water, or planting in sterile soil will usually induce the plant to fruit. Certain varieties of strawberries, pears, apples, plums, and other plants are often infertile when pollinated with pollen from their own flowers. Even when planted in groups they may produce abundant bloom but set little fruit. The remedy here is to plant among them other varieties with effective pollen. In a few other forms the pistils and stamens are produced on separate individuals, and no fruits can be produced, therefore, if the pollen-bearing plant is absent. Still other plants are adapted to cross-pollination by insects, and though the pollen-bearing plant or flower may be present, they set no fruits if the necessary insect fails to visit them. In growing melons, cucumbers, tomatoes, and the like in the hothouse, in winter, pollination must be per- formed by hand. Morning is the best time for this work. A soft camel's-hair brush, to which the pollen adheres, may be used for the transfer of the pollen, or a stick of sealing wax which has been electrified by rubbing with a cloth may be used to pick up the pollen grains and drop them upon the stigmas of the flowers to be pollinated. Thinning. When the young plants are well up, it will be necessary to thin them, if planted very thickly. Thinning should be done as early as the plants can be conveniently handled, so that the specimens left may have room to develop naturally. Plants that are not thinned become drawn and spindling and do not produce good crops. The distance apart GABDEN MAKING 143 in the row depends somewhat upon the habit of the plant. Plants with long narrow leaves, like salsify or onion, may stand closer than those with broad, spreading leaves, like turnip and parsnip. The main consideration should be to see that one plant does not unduly shade another. Labels. All planted seeds should be prop- erly labeled, partly as a matter of record and partly to indicate their whereabouts until the young plants are large enough to be seen. Older plants should also be labeled, especially if there are several varieties of the same species cultivated, or if other plants are grown that might be mistaken for them. The best label for temporary purposes is a wooden stake painted white. Such labels can be purchased from seeds- men at small cost. Those six inches long and about three quarters of an inch wide are about the right size, though smaller or larger ones may be had. On a label of this kind, words written with a pencil will be legible for years, though splashed with dirt by every passing storm. For more perma- nent labels, however, it is desirable to use a piece of galvanized-iron wire about fifteen inches long with a coil at the upper end to which a small label is attached. These small labels, called tree labels, may be obtained at slight expense. When more than one word is to go on a label, the first word is written near the top and lengthwise of it, and the second word is written under the first and further from the top. This insures that, as the label becomes less legible in course of time, there will be no FIG. 103. Two forms of labels The one on the right is the common garden or pot label ; the other is a more permanent form for marking plants in the borders 144 AGRONOMY FIG. 104. Proper method of writing labels chance of confusing the two words in deciphering them. Labels should be so placed as to stand at the beginning of the rows with the writing facing away from the seeds or plants they refer to. Unless this / Le tfayaAeaet H^* rule is consist- ently followed, when several kinds are planted in the same row, there is no way of discover- ing on which side of the label the plants are that bear the name. Saving seed. In many cases it is as well to save the seeds of desirable crops as it is to buy new supplies of the seedsman annually. For the purpose of seed production one should select the best specimens and take care that inferior stock does not become mixed with it, through cross-pollination. By careful selection one may produce even better crops than the original. It is not desirable, however, to save the seeds of double flowers or of plants that grow near other varieties of the same species, because they are not likely to come true from seed the fol- lowing year. The different varieties of corn readily mix in this way, and so do plants that produce flowers of several dif- ferent colors. Seeds should be spread out to dry in a shady place, and when thoroughly dried should be stored in a tin box in a cool, dry place. In warm climates seeds are usually short-lived, and in all regions they require uniform conditions as regards temperature and moisture. FIG. 105. A seed-tight packet that may be made by simply folding a sheet of paper. See page 146 GARDEN MAKING TABLE OF SEEDS AND DISTANCES FOR PLANTING NAME How PLANTED AMOUNT WILL SEED DISTANCES APAHT OF Rows Beans, bush . . . Beans, pole Beets drills hills drills quart quart ounce 150 ft. 125 hills 50 hills 18 in. 4ft. 12 to 18 in. Carrot drills ounce 100 ft. 12 to 18 in. Chard, Swiss . Corn drills hills ounce quart 50 ft. 125 hills 18 to 20 in. 1\ to 4 ft. Cress drills ounce 100 ft. 1 ft. Cucumber .... Kohl-rabi .... Lettuce hills drills drills ounce ounce ounce 60 hills 200 ft. 200 ft. 4 or 5 ft. 18 to 24 in. 12 in. Melons hills ounce 60 hills 5 or 6 ft. Mustard .... Okra drills drills ounce ounce 80 ft. 50 ft. 12 in. 4 ft. Onion seed Parsley drills drills ounce ounce 125 ft. 100 ft. 1 ft. or less 18 in. Parsnip drills ounce 250 ft. 18 in. Peas drills quart 150 ft. 18 in. or more Potato Radish hills drills peck ounce 100 hills 125 ft. 2i ft. 12 in. Salsify drills ounce 75 ft. 15 in. Spinach drills ounce 100 ft. 12 in. Squash hills ounce 25 hills 4 to 9 ft. Turnip drills ounce 150 ft. 12 in. VEGETABLES USUALLY TRANSPLANTED NAME How PLANTED AMOUNT WILL MAKE DISTANCES APART OF Rows Cabbage . . . hills ounce 2000 plants 2 ft. or more Cauliflower . . hills ounce 3000 plants 2 ft. or more Celery .... drills ounce 5000 plants 2 ft. Eggplant . hills ounce 2000 plants 2 ft. Onion sets . drills quart 50 ft. 12 in. Pepper .... hills ounce 2000 plants 2 ft. Tomato .... hills ounce 2000 plants 3 to 4 ft. 146 AGRONOMY Seed packets. In handling seeds a convenient packet in which they may be placed is desirable. The packet shown in the illustration on page 144 may be made at any time without paste or elaborate manipulation, and yet will hold the smallest seeds securely. To make it, take a sheet of paper of the de- sired size 5 inches by 7 inches is a convenient shape and fold it once the long way of the paper with the two edges to- gether. Next fold back these edges about a quarter of an inch from the edge and repeat the process. Then turning the folded side down with the fold farthest away, bend back the corners FIG. 10G. Method of closing the ordinary seed packet of the folded side until they meet the opposite edge and form a right angle with it. Next bend the unfolded corners down and tuck the tips under the first fold and the packet is done. When the packet is to be filled either end may be quickly opened. When it is desired to close an ordinary seed packet such as the seedsmen use, fold one corner of the open end three quarters of the way across, fold the opposite corner back upon this, and tuck the tip under the first fold. The illustrations will aid in making this matter clear. All packets of seeds should be carefully labeled with the name of the seeds within and the date at which they were collected. It is unwise to trust the mem- ory for data of this kind which may materially affect the crop. GAKDEN MAKING 147 PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. Carefully measure the school garden and make a plan of it, drawn to a scale of ^ or | inch to the foot. Neatly label all sections. 2. How many acres .in the school garden ? If less than one, estimate the fraction of an acre. What fraction of an acre is your own part of the school garden? 3. Make a plan, drawn to scale, of an average lot in your town. Allow space for house and lawns and indicate the place in the garden which each vegetable is to occupy. 4. Write to the nearest seedsman for a seed catalogue, which may be had free, and make a list of the vegetables named in your plan; with an estimate of the quantity of seed needed for planting the garden. 5. Make out an order for these seeds, with the quantities and prices, and file with your teacher. 6. Write to your representative in Congress for sufficient seeds to plant your own garden. 7. Get a packet of any large seeds (radishes, beans, or corn will do) and divide it into (a) full shapely seeds, (ft) irregular and small seeds, and (c) broken seeds, weed seeds, and dirt. What percentage of the packet is good seeds ? 8. Make a seed tester and test twenty large seeds and twenty small ones for vitality. What per cent of each germinated ? Which do you conclude would be best to plant ? 9. Plant your own part of the school garden and cultivate it after every rain. 10. Try covering half a row of planted seeds with a light mulch. How does this affect the germination of the seeds ? Compare with the part of the row left uncovered. 11. Transplant lettuce, beets, cabbage, or other plants to your garden. 12. Select a row of young seedlings planted rather thickly, and thin out half the row to the proper distances between plants and allow the other to go untouched. What effect has crowding ? 13. Fertilize half a row of spinach, lettuce, or radishes with nitrate of soda, making two" applications about a week or ten days apart. How does the subsequent growth compare with the untreated plants ? 14. Plant the seeds of desirable trees and shrubs in the school garden where they may grow into good specimens for use on Arbor Day. If there are small specimens already growing for this purpose, transplant 148 AGRONOMY them to a new location in order that they may develop an abundance of fibrous roots. 15. Properly label all seeds as soon as sown. Make seed packets according to the directions given on page 146. 16. Make a collection of vegetable and flower seeds for the school museum. Have the specimens uniform. Small bottles known as shell vials are excellent containers. References Bailey, "Manual of Gardening." French, "The Book of Vegetables." Green, "Vegetable Gardening." Farmers' Bulletins 33. Peach Growing for Market. 35. Potato Culture. 52. The Sugar Beet. 61. Asparagus Culture. 76. Tomato Growing. 94. The Vegetable Garden. 113. The Apple, and how to grow it. 121. Beans, Peas, and Other Legumes for Food. 148. Celery Culture. 154. The Fruit Garden. 156. The Home Vineyard. 161. Practical Suggestions for Fruit Growing. 218. The School Garden. 235. Home Vegetable Garden. Bureau of Plant Industry 69. American Varieties of Lettuce. 109. American Varieties of Garden Beans. 184. The Production of Vegetable Seeds. CHAPTER X TILLAGE Need for tillage. There are certain factors in crop pro- duction that man can do little to change. The range of temperature, the make-up of the air, the amount and time of rainfall, and the amount of sunlight are beyond his power to vary ; but the soil, fully as important as any of these, may be greatly modified by his efforts. By drainage he adds to its depth and warmth, by the addition of manures he enhances its fertility, and by proper cultivation he promotes the develop- ment of the plants growing in it. Given warmth, moisture, and fertility, tillage is still necessary for the highest development of growing plants. Even wild species become more luxuriant and give finer flowers and better flavored fruits when properly cultivated. The chief difference between our food plants and others of the same kind growing wild is due to the fact that the soil about the food plants is tilled. Tillage renders the soil less compact, enables the roots of plants to penetrate it more easily, adds to its ability to absorb rainfall, prevents the escape of moisture already in the soil, assists the air to penetrate more deeply, thus adding to its warmth and promoting weathering, distributes the bacteria, and discourages the weeds by prevent- ing their becoming established. The great amount of pore space which tillage adds to the soil may be realized by digging a hole in any piece of ground and then endeavoring to put back into the hole all the soil removed. Wherever trenches are dug for pipes or tiling we see an amount of soil left over that, in spite of soaking with water and ramming with heavy instruments, cannot be returned to the trench from which it was dug. 149 150 AGRONOMY Pulverizing the soil. The soil is pulverized and made fit for crops by plowing, harrowing, spading, and raking. In ex- tensive field operations the plow is used to break up the soil, while the harrow, like a gigantic rake, is used to break up the large clods and level the surface ; in the smaller areas, such as the home garden, the same results are attained by the use of the spade and the rake. The object of plowing or spading FIG. 107. Plowing is not only to loosen the soil, but to turn it over, thus bring- ing new food supplies to the surface and fresh soil into cul- tivation, while the topsoil, together with such fertilizers as have been applied, is turned under to become fitted for a succeeding crop. In humid regions the soil is stirred to a depth of six or seven inches, but in arid regions the stirring may extend much deeper without harm to the soil. When the soil is underlaid by a stiff and heavy subsoil, the latter is often loosened by siibsoiling or trenching. In subsoiling the subsoil plow follows the surface plow in the same furrow but at a greater depth. Trenching is restricted to small areas and is TILLAGE 151 done with a spade. In this operation a layer of soil the width and depth of the spade is removed, forming a trench, and the soil in the bottom of this trench is loosened by spading. Then the trench is filled by the soil from a new trench adjoining it, and so the work continues until the last trench is reached, when the first soil thrown out is used to fill it. The subsoil is often loosened by the explosion of small charges of dynamite. In the home garden the spading fork is to be preferred to the Photograph by II. L. Ilollister Land Co. FIG. 108. Plowing with a tractor On the larger farms in the West a tractor is often used. With this it is possible to plow a dozen or more furrows at once spade, since it breaks up the soil more thoroughly and is more easily thrust into stony soil. After plowing or spading, the harrow and rake are used to further pulverize the soil. The more thoroughly this work is done, the better will be the seed bed. Care must be taken not to work the soil when it is either too wet or too dry, otherwise the soil crumbs will be broken up and the soil puddled. A puddled soil is almost imper- meable to air, water, and the roots of plants. Where an old road or path across a field has been plowed up, the effects of 152 AGRONOMY the puddling which it lias undergone is often apparent for years in the inferior plants along its course. A heavy rain in summer often puddles the surface layer of soil so completely as to form a crust thick enough to prevent small seedlings from forcing their way up to the surface. Mulches. Quite as much water evaporates from a saturated soil as from a free water surface. As fast as it is removed from the surface, more rises by capillarity to take its place. Photograph by S. L. Allen & Co., Philadelphia FIG. 109. Cultivating corn with the horse cultivator The underside of a board or other object lying on the ground is constantly kept wet by the rise of water in this way. A windy day dries up the soil by removing the water as fast as it rises. This steady loss of moisture from the soil can be checked by any sort of loose cover. The mulch of stable manure or other litter often spread on the ground about newly planted trees and shrubs is placed there for this pur- pose, though such mulches are not desirable for growing TILLAGE 153 plants because they prevent the stirring of the soil. A layer of dry, porous earth is fully as effective in breaking up the capillary chain. One of the main objects in cultivating plants is to maintain a mulch of this kind, which is commonly called a dust mulch or summer mulch. The dust mulch is also a great aid to the suppression of weeds, since it contains so little moisture that their seeds cannot germinate. In dry Photograph hy S. L. Alle FIG. 110. Cultivating with a wheel hoe . & Co., Philadelphia This implement has several attachments and may also be used as a rake, scarifier, or light plow farming the dust mulch is used to retain the moisture, and so effective is it for this purpose that we are often advised to " water the garden with a hoe " ; that is, to keep the water already in the soil from escaping by constant cultivation of the surface. The soil should be loosened after every rain. When plants in large plots are cultivated, the cultivator, drawn by 154 AGRONOMY a horse, is usually employed ; in market gardens and smaller plots the wheel hoe, operated by hand, may be used ; while in the home garden the rake and hoe are most frequently seen. Of the latter there are many styles, ranging from the shuffle hoes and scarifiers of the expert gardener to the common im- plement found in every garden. Planting in long rows adds much to the economy in any kind of cultivation and is abso- lutely necessary when the wheel hoe or cultivator is used. Anything that decreases the amount of pore space in the soil makes it easier for the water to pass from one soil particle to another, and thus promotes the loss of water through capil- larity. Footprints in soft soil show for days, by their darker color, where the moisture is evaporating most rapidly. In planting seeds the escape of moisture is often promoted by compacting the soil about them, the cultivator in this case being willing to sacrifice some moisture in order that the growing seeds may be properly supplied. Covering the soil with a light mulch serves the same purpose. Work of earthworms and ants. Individually, earthworms and ants are insignificant creatures, seemingly too small to have any effect upon the soil, but when their work in the aggregate is considered, they are seen to be of great assistance in keeping the soil in good condition. The earthworms burrow into the earth, swallowing bits of soil and decaying vegetable matter as they go, and later bring this up to the surface, forming the well-known castings seen about the entrance to their burrows. It is estimated that in this way earthworms bring up from lower levels ten tons of soil per acre annually, nearly an inch in five years. In the course of a century the entire soil as far down as cultivation ordinarily extends would be turned over and very thoroughly pulverized. In addition, the burrows made by these animals aid in keeping the soil porous and well aerated. In dry soils ants take the place of earthworms and turn over the soil nearly as rapidly. TILLAGE 155 Rotation of crops. In some sections of our country there are farms upon which no other crop than wheat has ever been grown ; on others, cotton or corn have been grown con- tinuously. When the same crop has been grown upon one piece of land for a series of years, however, there is a possi- bility that the soil may be depleted of some necessary element and fail to give adequate returns. Other plants, needing different proportions of the minerals, would be able to thrive where the first crop would fail. Again, certain toxic sub- stances excreted by one set of plants may accumulate in the soil until they put an end to the healthy growth of these plants long before the food materials are exhausted, though these toxic substances are not harmful to other crops. It has been found, also, that when the same crop is grown in the same place for any length of time, the insect and fungous pests that trouble it greatly increase and the weeds associated with the crop multiply. In meadows, daisies often overspread the grasses, and wild mustard thrives in grainfields. Ragweed comes in with the wheat, and srnartweed and foxtail grass grow with the corn. The advantages of a change or rotation of crops are thus seen to be many, and everywhere that modern methods obtain, some .kind of rotation is practiced. A still further advantage of crop rotation is that it permits the cul- tivation of deep and shallow-rooted crops alternately, and thus the whole soil is laid under tribute. The usual rotation consists of a grain crop such as oats or wheat, a cultivated crop such as corn, a forage crop such as clover or alfalfa, and, in addition, the field may be used as pasture for a year or more. Somewhere in the rotation it is usually planned to have a legume crop, which, when finally plowed under, en- riches the soil by the addition of much nitrogen. Even in small gardens the benefits to be derived from a rotation of crops are worth securing. In nature there is also a more or less well-defined rotation. Ponds dry up and new forms of 156 AGRONOMY vegetation overpower those which grew in the water, cliffs weather to soil and a different flora comes in. In fields allowed to lie fallow the plant covering changes little by little for years, and in the waste places there is always more or less succession of one group of plants by another. In parts of our country there has also been a steady migration of trees into the prairie region since the glacial period, and the movement is still going on. PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. Visit the nearest hardware or implement store and examine the machines used in tilling the soil. Make a list of the kinds seen and the uses to which they are put. 2. After a rain mark off 3 sq. yd. in the open ground. Cover 1 sq. yd. with a mulch of leaves or stable manure, pulverize the top layer of soil in the second, and let the third go untouched. At the end of a week examine as to moisture content in the upper layers. 3. In England it has been estimated that there are 53,767 earth- worms to the acre. Find the average number of worms to the square foot in the school garden by examining three different spots, and estimate the number to the acre upon this basis. How does your own locality compare with England in this respect? 4. Find out from the farmers near by what the common crop rota- tions of the region are. Are there any fields in which rotation is not practiced? If so, how do present crops compare with former crops? 5. Make a table of the crop rotations practiced in your county. References Hopkins, " Soil Fertility and Permanent Agriculture." King, " The Soil." Farmers 1 Bulletins 245. Renovating Worn-out Soils. 327. Conservation of Natural Resources. 342. Conservation of Soil Resources. CHAPTER XI FORCING AND RETARDING PLANTS Nature of the process. In nature each species of plant has its own season of growth and bloom, determined largely by conditions of temperature, moisture, and the like. Man, by regulating these conditions, creates an artificial season, and hastens, delays, or extends the flowering and fruiting period, thus obtaining his vegetables and fruits " out of season " at any time of the year. Hastening the development of a plant is called forcing. This is accomplished by high temperatures, increased moisture, and an abundance of plant food, and results in great succulence and brittleness. Lilies, hyacinths, narcissi, and other bulbous plants are among those that are most easily brought into bloom in this way, either in our homes or in commercial establishments. Owing to the amount of food stored in their bulbs, they may even be forced without soil in which to root, if they are kept supplied with water. On some private estates melons, grapes, peaches, strawberries, cucumbers, and tomatoes are produced in midwinter in houses devoted to this purpose, while the growing of roses, carnations, chrysanthemums, sweet peas, and the like for use in winter is a regular business with the florist. In the vicinity of large cities lettuce, radishes, onions, rhubarb, and asparagus are often grown in this way for the early markets. The business of forcing is carried on under glass in various kinds of houses or shelters, but these all fall under the general heads of greenhouses, cold frames, hotbeds, and hothouses. Retarding. The operation of holding back the growth of plants for the production of blossoms later is called retarding. 157 158 AGRONOMY This is the exact opposite of forcing. All the early spring flow- ering plants may be treated in this way, being placed in cold storage until required for blooming. Plants that have started into growth may be retarded to a certain extent by keeping the temperature lower than that required for vigorous growth. Greenhouses and hothouses. Strictly speaking, a greenhouse is a building used for keeping plants green through the winter, Photograph by Lord & Burnham, New York FIG. 111. A glass bouse in which a variety of vegetables and flowering plants may be grown during the winter and may or may not be heated, depending somewhat on the location, while the hothouse is a heated building in which plants may be grown, or warm-climate plants protected, dur- ing the winter. Ordinarily, however, this distinction is not maintained and the terms are used interchangeably. A con- servatory partakes more of the character of the greenhouse, being properly a place for conserving and showing plants FORCING AND RETARDING PLANTS 159 which are grown elsewhere. Plant houses have glass roofs and sides to admit as much light as possible during the short days of winter, and are heated largely by the sun's rays, at least by day. The hotbed has been described as " a trap to catch sunbeams," and the hothouse is merely a larger trap. The heat rays coming from the sun pass through the glass easily, but when reflected back from the soil the glass pre- vents their escape. The interior therefore warms up rapidly when the sun shines. On bright days the heat may be so greatly increased as to injure or kill the plants if the house is not ventilated. At night and on very cold days the warmth is maintained by some sort of artificial heating system. The first hothouses were kept warm by quantities of fermenting manure placed in pits beneath the benches upon which the plants were grown, and such means may still be depended upon to keep the frost out of small houses during the winter. In general, however, some sort of hot-water heating system is used. Hotbeds. Hotbeds are really small plant houses kept warm by fermenting manure and the sun's heat, and are used for growing plants before the weather will permit of their being grown in the open. Early crops of lettuce, radishes, and other vegetables are raised in this way, and long-season crops, such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, are started here and carried along until transplanting time. To make a hotbed, a pit should be dug 2 feet deep and about 1 foot wider than the frame that is to be placed over it. This pit is to be filled with manure to supply the heat, and should contain a good share of straw or other material in order that the heat may be long continued. The manure should be placed in a pile and forked over at intervals for several days before using, to insure that the fermenting material has been thoroughly mixed through it. When the whole pile is steaming it should be placed in the pit in layers about 6 inches deep, and each layer 160 AGRONOMY thoroughly tramped down. Over the pit of manure a layer of good soil 6 inches deep should be spread, and in this the plants are grown. The hotbed frame is made of boards, and the roof, which is made of one or more hotbed sashes, should slope toward the south. The front of the bed may be 6 inches or 1 foot high and the back 12 to 20 inches. Hotbed sashes are 3 by 6 feet in size, and the frame is made about 6 feet wide and long enough to take one or more sashes. Old win- dow sash may be used if hotbed sash are not at hand. When the manure is first put into the pit and the sashes put on, the heat often rises too high for plant growth. Seeds should not be planted until the temperature at midday falls below 90. The frame is usually banked up on the outside with manure as an addi- tional protection from the sfll cold, and on very cold nights the glass should be covered by mats, old car- Fio. 112. A hotbed showing the details ^ QT a j of straw, of construction Hotbeds are sometimes made upon a level pile of manure placed on the surface of the ground. In this case the manure should project beyond the frame at least a foot on all sides. The heat in a hotbed is not sufficient to carry it through the entire winter, and its use is usually confined to the late winter and spring. In the Northern states the hotbed is not begun much before the middle of February, and in many cases the middle or end of March is early enough. In managing the hotbed care should be taken to give the plants air whenever the weather is favor- able. This may be accomplished by lifting the lower end of the sash and placing a block under it, or on fine days the sash may be shoved part way off the frame. Plenty of air tends to make the plants sturdier. FORCING AND RETARDING PLANTS 161 Cold frames. The cold frame differs from the hotbed in a single feature: it lacks the pit of manure. It cannot therefore be used for growing plants in very cold weather, though as the air becomes warmer in spring it is often used to start tomato, cabbage, and other plants for transplanting. Its great- est usefulness is found in carrying half-hardy plants over the winter and in prolonging the growing season of lettuce, radishes, pansies, and the like in autumn. Cold frames are banked up with manure to aid in keeping out the frost, and in severe weather may be covered with mats. Both cold frames and hotbeds do best if placed in sheltered situations, though cold frames for carrying half-hardy or dormant plants through the winter are often placed on the north side of a fence or building. In the latter case the object is simply to protect the plants, and no light is needed. Cold frames designed to shelter plants for a few weeks in spring may be made with oiled paper or cloth in place of the glazed sash. Forcing single hills. Single plants of such species as rhu- barb, asparagus, and sea kale may be made to grow much earlier than they would naturally, by placing a box or half barrel over each hill and piling manure around it. The top is sometimes covered with a light of glass, thus making a mini- ature cold frame of it. Single boxes of this kind are now being offered for sale and serve a variety of purposes. In autumn manure is often piled over hills intended for forcing, to keep the ground from freezing deeply. Asparagus, rhubarb, and onions are often forced in the house by setting the "roots" upright and close together in a box and placing the box in a warm room or cellar. If kept moist, the young shoots will soon appear. These plants may also be grown under the greenhouse benches in the same way. Light is not necessary for forcing plants of this nature, since the food stored in the roots or other underground parts is drawn upon for making shoots. If it is desired to force the same roots again, they 162 AGRONOMY must be set out in spring in good soil and allowed one or more years in which to recuperate. Etherization. A large number of plants that form their flower buds at the end of the growing season do not readily resume growth when kept in sufficient warmth. These same plants, however, if allowed to remain dormant and brought into warmth at the end of winter, begin at once to grow. From this it is seen that plants require a season of rest, and if we are to induce such species to bloom in midwinter, something to take the place of this rest must be devised. Freezing, as a substitute for rest, has been found useful. If rhubarb plants designed for indoor forcing are carried in before frost, they fail to make proper growth, but if dug up in the field and exposed to a few frosts, they grow at once when planted. Heat appears to have the same effect as cold, and many spe- cies may be as easily forced by plunging their branches into hot water for a short time. Drought also affects plants like cold, and some specimens behave in the same way if treated with ether. In etherization the plants are placed in an air-tight receptacle and exposed to the fumes of ether for twenty-four hours or longer. When brought into warmth they are ready to grow, the ether appearing to have the same effect upon them as the long rest through the winter. Lilacs etherized in August have been brought into full bloom a few weeks later. In etherization about one third of an ounce of ether to each cubic foot of space is the right amount. Forcing plants in the window garden. The conditions in most dwellings are not favorable to plant growth, especially in winter. The dryness of the air, the lack of sunlight, the pres- ence of coal gas and illuminating gas in the air, and the differ- ence between the day and night temperatures all conspire to kill or enfeeble vegetation. Only the hardiest plants can be induced to grow and bloom under such circumstances. Plants produced from bulbs, corms, and the like are an exception to FORCING AND RETARDING PLANTS 163 this, since the food necessary for their growth and even the blossoms themselves are formed in the underground parts dur- ing the preceding season. If given sufficient water they are able to develop their flowers with very little light, since blos- soming with them is largely a mere expansion of parts already formed. They may be grown in soil or water, but in either case they are usually set aside in some cool dark place, after planting, to form roots before being placed in the light. The most popular subjects for growing in this way are the paper- white narcissus and the Chinese sacred lily, a closely related species, but tulips, crocuses, hyacinths, and other bulbous plants are also grown. After flowering, the plants are usually thrown away, since they cannot be satisfactorily forced a second time. PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. At the proper time make a hotbed or cold frame in the school garden and plant in it seeds of long-season plants that may be trans- planted to the open ground later. Make a sowing of lettuce, beets, or onions for transplanting. 2. Dig up spring flowering plants before they start into growth and place in cold storage, to be brought out and flowered when those in the fields have gone. 3. Try forcing sea kale, asparagus, or rhubarb. 4. Make a single forcing hill for growing some plant from seeds, such as melon. 5. Try forcing some wild plant at the beginning of winter. Etherize another plant of the same kind and compare results. References Bailey, "The Forcing Book." Bailey, "Manual of Gardening." CHAPTER XII WEEDS Definition of a weed. A weed is properly defined as a plant out of place. No matter how beautiful the flowers may be, or how highly the species may be regarded for decorative planting, if it competes with cultivated plants for possession of the soil, Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. FIG. 113. Spraying a field of young grain with iron sulphate to eradicate mustard and other weeds it is a weed. In some localities the worst weeds with which the farmer has to contend are ferns. Many species that in foreign lands are cherished as beautiful flowering plants are counted mere weeds at home. Indeed, some of the weeds that now bother our cultivated crops, such as bouncing Bet and 164 WEEDS 165 toadflax, were originally brought from Europe as desirable additions to the flower garden, and only later took up a free life in the fields. A few of our weeds are native, but most of our noxious species have been derived from the Old World, where centuries of struggle with crop and cultivator have developed to the utmost their ability to resist all attempts to dislodge them. Nor are weeds entirely confined to specimens growing in cultivated areas. The plants that come up in walks Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. FIG. 114. Grainfield showing the effect of spraying with iron sulphate The portion on the left is unsprayed. Note the abundant young mustard plants and drives, on railway embankments, and in similar places are weeds. Other weeds, like the ditch moss and water hyacinth, are confined to the water, but prove their weediness by chok- ing up the streams and rivers, and in some cases actually preventing navigation. Harmfulness of weeds. Weeds are harmful in several ways. They absorb water needed for the growth of cultivated crops, prevent the formation of plant food by shading, harbor fungous and insect enemies, render more difficult the task of keeping 166 the soil loose and open, and in many, cases their seeds gathered with the crop injure its value. Weeds should not be allowed to grow even in the borders of cultivated grounds, since from this point they may seed the soil for several years to come. In this connection it is well to remember the oft-quoted maxim, " One year's seeds, seven years' weeds." Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. FIG. 115. A grainfield showing wild mustard in blossom. The portion on the right has been sprayed with iron sulphate Nature of weeds. Some of the qualities that conduce to weediness in plants are abundant and easily distributed seeds, the ability to grow rapidly, to endure injury and shading, and to thrive upon little moisture and in sterile soils. Many secure immunity from grazing animals by offensive odors, prickly leaves and stems, and other disagreeable characteristics. Some are winter annuals that grow in spring before more valuable crops have started ; others are summer annuals that wait until WEEDS the crops are well along, but grow so rapidly when they do appear that they soon overtake and choke out their competi- tors; while still others are perennials that spring again and again from underground parts after being cut down by the gardener. A few are mat plants or rosette plants that form dense carpets over the soil, and some are vines that climb on other plants, but the great majority simply grow erect and take the ground by virtue of a more luxuriant growth. Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. FIG. 116. Spraying a lawn with a baud sprayer to eradicate weeds Eradicating weeds. One of the most effectual methods of eradicating weeds is to prevent them from seeding. All annual species are easily held in check in this way. When crops are frequently cultivated the weeds are unable to get a start. A favorite way of clearing a field of weeds is to plant it for one or more seasons to some crop that must be hand cultivated. All weeds may be killed by applications of salt, but since what will kill weeds will also kill more valuable plants, this method cannot be used except on walks, drives, and similar places. Asparagus, however, can stand an application of salt strong enough to kill the weeds that grow with it. Plants which 168 A<;I;ONO.MY depend upon peculiar soil conditions may be eradicated by changing these conditions. Sedges which delight in moist soil may be exterminated by draining, and mosses, sorrel, and various other plants that like acid soils may be driven out by liming the soil. Perennial plants must either be starved out by fre- quently cutting off the leaves, or they may be dug up. A large number of weeds are also killed by spraying with iron sulphate, or " copperas," in the proportion of six pounds of iron Photograph from Bergen and Caldwell's " Practical Botany" FIG. 117. A tumbleweed (Cycloloma) blown into heaps by the wind sulphate to four gallons of water. Grainfields may be practi- cally freed from wild mustard in this way, the spray doing no harm to the cultivated plants. All crops are not so resistant and one must discover what the particular requirements of a crop are before spraying. For destroying algse, the fine, fila- mentous green growths that often appear in lily ponds and the like, copper sulphate is often used. The water should be treated with one part copper sulphate to three million parts of water. Fish are very easily poisoned by this substance, and care must WEEDS 169 be taken not to have it too strong if used in ponds in which there are desirable species. Not all weeds are equally noxious ; moreover, what may be a bad weed in one locality may be comparatively harmless in another, perhaps because the crops are different, but there are some species whose reputation for noxious qualities is world- wide. Some of these are listed here. Other and more local species may be studied in books devoted to the subject. Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. FIG. 118. Dandelions gone to seed on a neglected lawn Purslane (Portulaca oleracea). This is a fleshy little mat plant with small yellowish flowers that open only in sunshine, and is related to the portulaca, or rose moss, of our flower gardens. It will grow in almost any soil, and stores so much water in its thick leaves that, after it has begun to bloom, it can ripen its seeds though severed from the soil. Spreading amaranth (Amaranthus Uitoides). This species resembles the purslane, but it is larger, less fleshy, and has clusters of insignificant greenish flowers. Single specimens may form mats more than a yard across. 170 AGRONOMY Green amaranth (Amamnthus kybridut). This is also known as redroot and pigweed. It grows to the height of several feet, with broad coarse leaves topped by a dense pyramid of green- ish flowers. It is a most abundant and well-known weed, but is easily exterminated. Tumbleweed (Amaran- thus albus). Before the advent of the so-called Russian thistle this was the best-known tumble- weed. It is a rather low plant with branches dis- posed in globular form. When mature, the whole plant separates from the root and is blown about the country, scattering the minute seeds as it goes. Pigweed ( Chenopodium album). This weed is also known as lamb's quarters. It is a pale green plant with some- what triangular leaves that are whitened by a mealy deposit, and is thus easily recognized. It is a close ally of the beet and spinach and is often eaten as a pot herb. Russian thistle (Salsola trains'). This plant is in no sense a thistle, being more closely related to the pigweeds. It is extremely prickly, and from this circumstance its name is derived. It is another of the tumbleweeds and in conse- quence spreads rapidly. It is well known in the Middle West, where it was accidentally introduced during the latter part of Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. FIG. 119. The common plantain WEEDS 171 the last century, and is now a familiar plant in waste grounds, roadsides, railway embankments, and the like. Spotted spurge (Euphorbia maculata). The spotted spurge is another of the mat plants, and is readily distinguished by its small, thin, hairy leaves with a red blotch in the center, and by its much-branched slender stem, pressed close to the earth. The juice is milky. It delights in dry open places and grows readily in soils too sterile for the growth of other plants. Photograph from American FIG. 120. A tangle of the common bindweed and Wire Co. Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale). Its yellow flowers and feathery heads of seeds make this most abundant rosette plant too well known to require description. Its long and fleshy taproot is often removed by digging, but if any is left in the soil, it may originate new buds and produce a dozen or more plants where but one was originally. Plantain (Plantago sp.). Three species of plantain are frequent as weeds in grassy areas. Of these, Plantago major 172 AGRONOMY and P. Rugelii are common dooryard weeds with broad and rounded leaves and slender spikes of inconspicuous flowers. The third species, the narrow-leaved plantain (P. lanccolatcf), is easily distinguished by its rosette of long narrow leaves veined lengthwise of the blade. All the plantains are easily dug up. Common bindweed (Con- volvulus sepiuni). The large white or pink fun- nel-shaped flowers, like morning-glories, make the bindweed conspicuous and well known. It is fond of rich soil and forms tangled mats over the vegetation in the fields where it grows. It has a creeping under- ground rootstock that makes it one of the hard- est of weeds to eradicate. Black bindweed (Poly- gonum convolvulus). The climbing stems of this plant overrun other plants Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. FIG. 121. A common wild lettuce related to the prickly lettuce in its vicinity, after the manner of the common bindweed, to which, how- ever, it is not closely related. It is a much slenderer plant with greenish flowers and seeds that suggest its relative the buckwheat. Being annual instead of perennial, it is a much less formidable species than the common bindweed, though its vigorous growth makes it a harmful weed. WEEDS 173 Prickly lettuce (Lactuca scariola). Although the intro- duction of this plant into America occurred but recently, it has already spread so extensively as to become a common weed. It may be known by its erect prickly stems and bluish- green leaves, most of which are turned edgewise and point north and south. It is frequently a winter annual and is re- garded by botanists as being the parent of our garden lettuce. Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisicefolicf). Rag- weed, a homely plant with much-dissected leaves, is found al- most everywhere in cultivated land. At flowering time the in- significant greenish- yellow flowers shed great quantities of yel- low, dustlike pollen, which collects upon the shoes and clothing of all who pass through it. The pollen is regarded with good reason as be- ing one of the causes FIG. 122. Ragweed, a common weed regarded oi nay lever. as ^j ie cause O f i ia y fever Wild mustard (Bras- sica arvemis*). Several species of mustard are known under the general name of wild mustard, but the species named above is the most widespread and troublesome. The mustards may be distinguished by their coarse hairy leaves, clusters of bright yellow flowers, and long spikes of seed pods. They spring up quickly, grow rapidly, and soon smother less strenuous plants. The turnip is a closely related species of Brassica. Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. 174 AGRONOMY Oxeye daisy (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum). The large white flowers of this species, universally known as daisies or marguerites, are sufficient to identify it. It is a perennial, spreading rapidly by means of its many small seeds, and be- comes a bad weed in meadows and pastures, crowding out the rightful tenants of the soil. It is some- times known as whiteweed. The yellow daisy (Rud- beckia hirta), also common in fields and meadows, is a native species. Canada thistle (Cnicus arvemis). Many other spe- cies of thistle are confused with this much-dreaded plant, which, in spite of the name it bears, is an Old World species, and not a native of this con- tinent. It may be known by its very prickly stems and leaves and its pale lavender blossoms of small size. Owing to the fact that its rootstock is widely creeping and deep in the earth, it is very difficult to eradicate when once established. The plant has two kinds of blossoms, those on some specimens being completely sterile. This has given the impression in some sections that the plant does not ripen good seeds in parts of its range. Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. FIG. 123. A plant of wild mustard This species is especially harmful in grainfields WEEDS 175 Quack grass (Ayropyrum repens). This is a perennial species whose slender and wide-creeping rootstock sends up new stems at frequent intervals that later bear slender close-set spikes of greenish flowers. It is one of the hardest of weeds to root out, but this may be accomplished by planting fields infested with it to some hoed crop and cultivating frequently. Though so generally useless, this species is closely related to the wheat. Photograph from American Steel aud Wire Co. FIG. 124. The oxeye daisy on the border of a field Crab grass (Panicum sanguinale). This species, often called finger grass, is a coarse annual that does not begin to grow until the weather is quite warm and the cultivated crops well started. At first the stems are erect, but later they lie upon the soil with only the tips erect, and root wherever a joint comes in contact with the earth. When pulling it up, every root must be loosened or it will continue to thrive. The flow- ering stems are topped by several slender spikes that radiate from a common center. 176 AGRONOMY Foxtail (Setaria glaucof). This is another annual grass that does not make its appearance until very late in spring. It has a most extensive root system, and when it is pulled up often brings more valuable plants with it. The fruiting part is a bristly spike two or three inches long, from the appearance of which the common name is derived. Old witch grass (Pan- icum capillare). This is an annual that thrives in dry soils. It appears in early summer, put- ting up several coarse hairy stems that bear large panicles of many purplish threadlike di- visions. Late in the year these panicles break from the plant and are blown about by the wind. This species is sometimes called tickle grass in allusion to its feathery panicle. Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. BllttCrCUO ( RttnUn- FIG. 125. Young plant of the Canada thistle, 7 -NO i culus acrts). several one of our worst weeds species of buttercup may become weeds, but the one here given is best entitled to the name. It takes entire possession of many damp meadows and is so acrid that cattle will not touch it. Drying dispels the acrid properties, and when cut with the hay it is harmless. Wild carrot (Daucus carota). The wild carrot is also called bird's nest and Queen Anne's lace, in allusion to its flower clusters. It is a vile pest in many thin soils and its sturdy WEEDS 177 taproot makes it hard to conquer. The plant is supposed to be identical with the cultivated carrot, but in the wild state it is reputed to be poisonous. Sorrel (Rumex aceto- selld). This plant, com- monly known as sour grass or horse sorrel, is a perennial weed with numerous creep- ing subterranean stems and thrives in sterile soil. Early in summer it turns its haunts a FIG. 126. Wild carrot on a neglected lawn rusty red by a multi- tude of small flowers. It is supposed to be an indicator of acid soils and may be controlled by the application of lime. Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. FIG. 127. A field overrun by wild carrot Other weeds. Among less noxious though ever-present weeds may be mentioned shepherd' s-purse (Capsella), pepper-grass 178 AGRONOMY (Lepidiwm), chickweed (Stellaria), knotgrass (Polyyonum), burdock (Arctiwny, evening primrose (Oenothera'), sneezeweed (Helenium), bugloss (Echiwrn), bouncing Bet (Saponaria), toadflax (JLinaricf), smartweed (Polyyonum), dog fennel (An- themis), and Jimson weed (Datura). These may be looked up in any botanical manual. A large number of other plants, such as yarrow (AchillecC) and sheep sorrel (Oxalis'), come Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. FIG 128. A plant of dog fennel, a common weed along roadsides and in low grounds under the designation of weeds, since they frequently grow among cultivated crops, but they are seldom harmful enough to be classed with the noxious species and are not difficult to eradicate. It should not be supposed that the plants we now recognize as weeds are the only ones with which the cultivator is likely to have to contend. New weeds are practically certain to ap- pear from time to time, either derived from our native flora WEEDS 179 or as immigrants from other parts of the world. The orange hawkweed (Hieradum aurantiacum), which within a generation has spread over large areas in the Eastern states, is a case in point, and the Russian thistle, which appeared somewhat earlier, is another. The rapidity with which these weeds have spread is accounted for by their methods of seed distribution. Plants with wind-dis- tributed seeds are usually good travel- ers, but those whose seeds lack special means of distribution are often very slow in conquering new territory. The ox eye daisy, which has proved such a pest in New England, is still rare or absent in the north -central states, while the yel- low daisy, originally a Western plant, has spread to the East in comparatively recent times. New weeds are likely to be first found along traveled ways, especially if their seeds are not modified in some way for distribution, and a new line of traffic is usually responsible for their introduc- tion. Galinsoga parviflora, a harmless Mexican plant, was unknown in the Northern and Eastern states until the inhabit- ants began railway traffic with Mexico. Now it is common in many places as far north as Canada. The teasel is an Old World plant that has long been known as a weed in America, Photograph from American Steel and Wire Co. FIG. 129. Yarrow, a nearly harmless weed of wide distribution 180 AGRONOMY but it is still rare except in the vicinity of railroads. Other weeds owe their appearance in new regions to their having been brought in with the seeds of cultivated crops. The corn cockle (Agrostemma giihago) owes its common name to the fact that it is nearly always found in grainfields, where its seeds have t>een carried with the grain. PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. Make a list of the weeds known to grow in your locality. 2. What qualities make them bad weeds ? 3. Make a list of the weeds that spring up in the school garden. 4. Underscore the weeds in the above lists that are perennials. 5. Make a collection of weed seeds labeled with both scientific and common names. 6. Make a list of the ways in which these weed seeds are distributed, with examples of each. 7. Estimate the number of seeds produced by one weed in a season. If all these seeds should grow the following year and produce the same number of seeds and continue to reproduce in this way, how many years would it take to produce one plant for each acre of land in the world ? 8. Make a list of weeds that have come into your region witli the seeds of cultivated crops. Make a similar list for those that have come in along the railroads. References Long, "Common Weeds of the Farm and Garden." Pammel, " Weeds of the Farm and Garden." Farmers' Bulletins 28. Weeds and how to kill them. 188. Weeds used as Medicines. Bureau of Plant Industry 83. The Vitality of Buried Seeds. 89. Wild Medicinal Plants of the United States. 107. American Boot Drugs. CHAPTER XIII PROPAGATION Natural methods. The one means by which all plants higher in the scale of life than the ferns are multiplied is by seeds. Many species, in addition to' this, have devised various ways of multiplying asex- ually or vegetatively by means of special parts of the plant which take root and soon become separate individuals. This latter method is often more cer, tain than reproduction by seeds, since the new plant may remain attached to the old one until estab- lished ; and some species, such as the potato and horse-radish of our gar- dens, and the sugar cane and sweet potato, have almost abandoned seeds in favor of it. In most cases, however, seed production and vegetative multipli- cation proceed side by side, one being used for multiplying the plant in a particular station and the other for spreading it into other regions. 181 FIG. 130. A lilac shrub that has pro- duced numerous suckers 182 AGRONOMY Typical forms for propagation. The branches of almost any plant may strike root under favorable circumstances, but in plants that depend very much upon vegetative methods there are usually well-defined parts developed for the work. Several of these have received distinctive names, such as sucker, stolon, offset, tuber, rootstock, bulblet, and cormel. A snicker is pro- duced by an adventitious bud upon some underground part, usually a root. Many plants, among which may be mentioned the lilac, plum, locust, and white poplar, sucker freely. In such species injury to the root or cutting back the top may induce suckering. A stolon is a slender branch that bends over and roots at the tip, as in the black raspberry, currant, June berry, and golden bell. The offset is a short, thick, horizontal branch, either on the surface or un- derground, which pro- duces a plant at the tip. It differs from a stolon chiefly in being shorter and thicker and designed solely for reproduction. The century plant, house leek, and ostrich fern produce nu- merous offsets. Runners differ from offsets mainly in being slenderer and longer, and in producing new plants at each node, as in the strawberry. Tubers are short, much thickened under- ground branches that lie in the soil over a season of cold or drought and produce new plants upon the return of a more FIG. 131. Base of a sunflower stem showin offsets for reproducing the plant PROPAGATION 183 favorable season. The potato and artichoke are good examples. Rootstocks are also subterranean stems, but differ from tubers FIG. 132. Onion bulbs The sectioned specimens show the origin of bulblets in being the main axes of the plants instead of branches, and in living much longer. When the rootstock branches, how- ever, these shoots act exactly like tubers in forming new plants. The iris and Solomon's seal are good illustrations of rootstocks. Bulblets, or bulbils, are budlike struc- tures, really small buds, produced in the axils of bulb scales, as in many lilies and the " potato " onion, or on the aerial parts of plants, such as may be seen in the tiger lily and the FIG. 133. A corm of gla- " top " onion. Cormels are small con- densed stems with one or more buds, and are produced by corms, such as the gladiolus and crocus. Artificial propagation. In multiplying his specimens the gardener takes advantage of all the methods evolved by diolus with several small cormels attached 184 AGRONOMY plants, to which he adds various others which careful manip- ulation and a knowledge of plant growth make possible. Often injury to the plant will cause it to produce parts designed for reproduction. Cuts near the base of bulbs or corms will cause bulblets or cormels to develop. Even bulb scales, when treated as softwood cuttings, may develop into new plants. All vegetative multiplication depends upon a division of the plant, which fact may be made use of in many ways. Cormels and bulblets are removed from the plant and treated like seeds. Rootstocks are separated into bits, each of which contains one or more buds and a few roots. Tubers, like rootstocks, are cut into pieces, a single specimen thus producing several new plants. Runners, offsets, stolons, and suckers are sep- arated from the parent plant and set where wanted. Other species, such as the phlox, FIG. 134. A species of sunflower (Helianthus laetiflorus) showing the evolution of a tuber from an offset golden glow, and chrysanthemum, which grow in clumps with- out well-defined rootstocks or other means of propagation, may be simply cut in pieces and each piece planted separately. Chief among the artificial methods which man has devised for multiplying plants may be named cuttings, layering, bud- ding, and grafting. Cuttings. Nearly all plants may be increased in number by detached parts, which, placed in moist sand or even water, soon strike root and become independent individuals. The " slips " by which house plants are commonly propagated are PKOPAGATIOX 185 good examples. These cuttings are placed in two groups : green or softwood cuttings, made mostly from herbaceous plants and intended to be rooted at once ; and hardwood cuttings, made from woody plants late in autumn. The latter are kept in a dormant condition through the winter and are rooted the following spring. This latter form of cutting is the one commonly employed in multiplying the woody plants, but many of these may also be propa- gated by softwood cuttings, espe- cially roses, currants, golden bell, willow, and poplar. For this pur- pose the cuttings should be taken while the wood is young and ten- der. In making any kind of cut- ting it is desirable that the cuts be made just below the nodes, since the new roots usually spring from these parts. Among the plants com- monly grown from softwood cut- tings are carnations, geraniums, begonias, chrysanthemums, and those specimens known as " foliage plants." When set, about one third of each cutting should project above the soil. To prevent loss of mois- ture while they are making roots, it is customary to remove part or all the leaves before setting and to protect them from the drying effects of the air by sheltering with glass or thin cloth. Plenty of warmth and moisture is necessary to make most cuttings root rapidly, but they should not be kept so close as to pre- vent ventilation. The hardier plants, however, will root if the FIG. 135. A geranium cutting which has struck root From Bergen and Cakhvell's " Practical Botany " 186 AGRONOMY cuttings are merely stuck in moist soil in a shady place. Several forms of softwood cuttings have distinctive names. Leaf cuttings are made from leaves or parts of leaves, which are pegged down on moist sand and kept close. After a time FIG. 136. A Jamaican fern (Faydenia) in which the leaves form new plants at their tips tiny plants will begin to form along the edge of the leaves. Begonias, wax plants, and bryophyllums are multiplied in this way, and among wild plants the sundews and many ferns have the same faculty. Stem cuttings are the ordinary " slips " or twigs taken with three, or more joints. Tuber cuttings are pieces of tubers with one or more " eyes," or buds. Cuttings PROPAGATION 187 of this kind are the customary means of multiplying potatoes, artichokes, and dahlias. Root cuttings may be used for getting additional plants of quince, horse-radish, blackberry, sea kale, phlox, butterfly weed, and the like. In such cases adventitious buds are formed on the roots, although they do not normally occur in this way. In the case of phlox and butterfly weed, however, small roots left in the soil after the plant is dug are almost certain to send up new plants, and in horse-radish and sea kale the larger roots are depended upon for increasing the number of plants. Dandelion roots can also originate buds FIG. 137. Tubers of artichoke (Helianthus) and potato, which are usually propagated by tuber cuttings in this way, and a single piece of root left in digging may pro- duce several new plants. Hoot cuttings, like tuber cuttings, are entirely covered by the soil when planted. Hardwood cuttings. Hardwood cuttings are made from ma- ture wood not more than two years old and usually younger. They are cut at least six inches long and are taken late in autumn when the wood is dormant. They are not set until the following spring and must be kept in a cool moist place until used. In common practice they are tied in bundles of about one hundred each and buried a foot or more deep and upside down in a well-drained spot, or they may be kept in moist sand in a cool cellar. During the winter a tissue called the callus forms over the cut ends, and from this or near it the new roots start. In plants that root rather easily the cuttings are often set out in autumn. Nearly all our trees, shrubs, and woody vines may be propagated by hardwood cuttings, though the form of these depends somewhat upon the species it is 188 AGROV.MY desired to multiply. Besides the simple cuttings of three or more joints, there are single eye cuttings consisting of a single node with its buds. These are planted in the soil, usually in the greenhouse, and treated as if they were seeds. Heel cut- tings are made by removing a twig with part of the old wood attached to it, the latter forming the " heel." Mallet cutt'tinjx are sections of the main stem with the twig attached. In some species, especially those with very hard wood, these latter root more readily than the simple stem cuttings. In general, hardwood cuttings should be set so that not more than one bud appears above the soil. Layering. Layering is a modification of re- production by cuttings used with plants that do not readily strike root from separate pieces. In this method the twig is induced to strike root, while still attached to the parent plant, by being bent down and covered with moist soil. Often the branch is cut part way through where it is covered with soil, or it may be bent or twisted, or a layer of bark may be removed to further influence the production of roots. The black raspberry, hobblebush, and golden bell root naturally at the tips, and other plants may be made to do so. This is called tip layering and is really the forming of an arti- ficial stolon. In vine layering the branch may be covered with FIG. 138. Three forms of hardwood cuttings On the left, the ordinary form ; in the middle, a heel cutting; on the right, a mallet cutting PROPAGATION 189 soil at several points, and when these form roots, they are cut up into separate plants. Grapes, honeysuckles, wistaria, and many others may be propagated thus. Branches that rise from the base of shrubs often form roots and may be removed to form new plants. This process is often hastened by the grower, who first cuts back the plant to make it throw up numerous shoots and then heaps the soil up around them so that they will root. This is known as mound layering. What is essentially a form of layering may be often seen in green- houses where various tropical species, such as the rubber plant, are multiplied by tying a ball of wet moss about a branch near the tip, first injuring the bark to make it root at that point. The moss is kept wet and in due time is filled with roots, after which the branch is cut off. This is called air layering or pot layering. The sand box. Although established plants thrive only in rich soil, cuttings root better in clean, sharp sand. The willow, wandering Jew, and nasturtium root readily in water. The nurseryman roots his cuttings in beds of moist sand in the greenhouse, but for home work a box of sand set in a shady place and covered with glass or thin cloth is very useful. Care should be taken to see that the sand is free from inju- rious fungi and insects, and after being used for one lot of cuttings should be sterilized by baking or pouring boiling water through it before it is used for another. The cuttings should be given a warm and even temperature and should not be allowed to suffer for water or fresh air. Budding. Budding does not increase the number of plants, but it may be employed to increase the number of a certain kind. It is really a form of transplanting whereby the bud of a desirable species is made to grow upon one less desirable and thus change the nature of the plant. It is used for mak- ing worthless species productive, for multiplying forms that will not come true from seeds, and for hastening the fruiting 190 AGRONOMY of others. All of our superior fruits and many of our nut trees are budded or grafted upon other stock because their characters are not fixed in the seed. Having one good plant, however, we may make as many others as we choose by bud- ding. In this process it makes no difference if the fruits pro- duced by the stock are worthless. The bud will form a new crown that will produce fruits like the plant from which it was taken. In growing the stocks, therefore, seeds from any source may be sown. The plants are budded when one or two years old, and thereafter have all the character- istics of the superior strain. Usually only closely related forms can be budded success- fully. The plants most frequently treated in this way are the stone fruits, nut trees, and some of the citrous fruits. Budding is per- formed in late June, July, August, and early September. Method of budding. In the common form of budding a T-shaped cut is made in the bark of the stock, the upper edges of the cut are carefully turned back, and a new bud with more or less bark attached is inserted, after which the bark of the stock is pressed into place and tied for a week or more until the bud has grown fast. The cut in the stock should go halfway around the twig or stem, and the cut at right angles to it should be about an inch and a half long. Both should extend inward as far as the new wood. The bud should be selected from a vigorous and healthy plant, and removed with an upward cut of a sharp knife, beginning a quarter of an inch below the bud and ending the same dis- tance above it. The cut should be made just deep enough to remove a thin shaving of the new wood, which may afterwards FIG. 130. A twig with buds removed for budding PKOPAGATION 191 be removed with the knife, or, if very thin, it may be inserted with the bud. The leaf that occurs below each bud may be severed where the blade joins the petiole, and the latter left for a handle. The bud and the bark removed with it should be inserted in the cleft in the stock and care taken to see that the cambium of bud and stock are in contact. The bark of the stock should be tied securely about the bud with two or three turns of twine or waxed cotton, but the bud itself must not be covered, and as soon as it has been incorporated with the stock, which should occur in about ten days, the wrappings must be .4 1^1 t* removed. The bud remains dormant until spring, and as soon as growth begins, the part of the stock above the bud should be removed and the latter left to form the new plant. In budding young plants the bud is inserted about two inches above the soil ; in larger specimens it may be inserted anywhere on the young growth. By selecting buds of different varieties one may have several kinds of fruit on the same tree. While budding, neither bud nor stock should be allowed to become dry. It is also well to bud on the north side of the stock, where the bud will not be exposed to the sun. Several other forms of budding are in use, but the prin- ciple is the same in all. In ring, flute, or annular budding a piece of bark extending part way around the stock is removed Flo. 140. Three stages in the operation of budding In the figure on the right the work has heen completed 192 AGRONOMY and a similar piece of bark with a bud from another plant is fitted in. This method is most frequently used in budding thick-barked trees such as hickory and magnolia, the work being performed in early spring. Prong budding is really a form of grafting in which a short twig is treated as a bud. Grafting. Grafting is in many respects like budding, since it consists in transferring a part of one plant to another, but in the present case a small twig, called a don, or graft, is used instead of a bud. The cions are collected and stored in autumn, exactly like hardwood cuttings, and the only practical differ- ence between them is that the cutting is designed to draw part of its nourishment from the soil through its own roots, while the cion is intended to become a part of another plant with no roots of its own. The essential thing in all grafting is to see that the cambium of stock and cion meet, and that the point where they join is protected by grafting wax until the two have grown together. Grafting must be done in late winter or early spring while both stock and cion are dormant. As in budding, cion and stock must be from nearly allied species. Sour apples or pears may grow on sweet-apple stock and peaches on plum stock, but widely separated species can seldom, if ever, be made to unite. A single tree may be made to bear half a hundred different varieties of apples by graft- ing, and each will come true to its nature. In species with dioecious flowers grafting may be employed to make sterile forms fertile. Different forms of grafting. Two principal forms of grafting may be distinguished : cleft grafting used in working over old trees ; and whip grafting, the method commonly employed with small or young stock. In cleft grafting, a branch about two inches thick is sawed off, the stump is split with a chisel or knife, and the base of the cion, cut to slender wedge shape, is inserted in the cleft. Usually two cions are used, one on each side of the cleft, and to insure that the cambiums of PROPAGATION 193 stock and cion shall meet, the cions are often made to diverge slightly. The cleft is then covered thoroughly with grafting wax, to keep out insects and decay until the wound heals. Crown grafting is like cleft grafting except that it is used in renewing the top of shrubs and vines that have been cut off at the surface of the soil. Cleft grafting is rarely used except in attempts to give old trees a new lease of life. For all ordinary work whip grafting is em- ployed. Numerous forms of this are in use, but they differ for the most part only in the way cion and stock are joined. In the form called saddle graft- ing the top of the stock is cut in wedge shape and the cion is cut with a deep notch to match it. In splice grafting a long tapering cut from one side of the stock to the other fits a similar cut on the cion. Tongue grafting is an improved form of splice grafting, in which a longitudinal cut is made about one third of the distance from the tip of the cut in both cion and stock. These are then wedged together, forming a close union that is not readily injured by the weather. In veneer graft- ing a notch is made through the bark of the stock, and the base of the cion, cut to fit, is inserted. Bridge grafting is sometimes employed to repair injuries to the bark of large trees. The edges of the wound are first straightened up and several twigs of the same species are obtained, their ends cut wedge shape FIG. 141. Cleft grafting This method is used on large specimens \ FIG. 142. Three forms of whip grafting 194 A.GBONOMY and inserted into the bark above and below the wound. In this way the sap is carried past the injury until the tree can cover it with bark. In root grafting the cion is joined to a piece of root. This is regarded as one of the best forms of grafting, since the cion may also put out roots and help to nourish the plant ; in fact, this hardly differs from growing a plant from a hardwood cut- ting. In all the forms of whip grafting, stock and cion are carefully bound together with waxed cotton twine or graft- ing wax until a perfect union occurs. Root grafts, being un- derground, do not need this protection. Although herbaceous plants are rarely grafted, it can be accomplished. Grafts between the tomato and the potato, the morning-glory and the sweet potato, the artichoke and the sunflower, are now and then reported. In grafting herba- ceous plants veneer grafting is the best form to use, but in this case the cut in the stock should be made deeper than for hard-wooded plants. Even fruits have been grafted when half grown. The grafting of soft-wooded plants is most successful when carried oh under glass, where the conditions of temperature and moisture can be controlled. Inarching. Inarching is a form of grafting in which cion and stock are united while both are still joined to their own roots. In this, one stem is bent over toward the other, the cambium FIG. 143. Tongue grafting Illustration of one of the best methods PROPAGATION 195 of each exposed, and the two stems bound together until a union is formed. The top of the stock is now cut off and the cion cut away from its roots. In the same way a small plant in a pot may be inarched to the branches of a large tree. In the forest one may often see examples of natural inarching where two plants have come into contact. Grafting wax. To make grafting wax, take four parts of rosin, two parts of beeswax, and one part of tallow or linseed oil, and melt all together. When thoroughly mixed pour into cold water, and, when cool enough, work it like molasses candy until it assumes a light straw color. Make into rolls and wrap in waxed paper until wanted. If a harder wax is desired, the amount of rosin or beeswax may be increased. The hands should be greased with tallow before attempting to work the wax. Waxed twine for tying buds and grafts may be prepared by putting a ball of No. 18 knitting cotton in the kettle of melted wax for a few minutes. Effect of stock on cion. Usually the nature of the stock has little effect on the cion, but cases are known in which apples grafted on wild-crab stock have produced more acid fruits, while late apples may ripen earlier as a result of grafting them on stocks of earlier varieties. Certain species may be dwarfed by grafting them on slow-growing stock, and the time of fruiting may often be greatly modified by the kind of stock and cion selected. Apples usually grow for ten or more years before fruiting, but a young seedling grafted on old stock may fruit in a year or two. On the other hand, a twig from an old tree grafted upon a seedling may grow for years before producing fruit. Many French grapes are grafted on American stocks, which are more resistant to the dreaded plant louse, Phylloxera, which infests the roots. Rarely the union of graft and stock, may produce twigs with characters that appear intermediate between the two. Such specimens are known as graft hybrids. 196 AGRONOMY PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. From pictures, from dried specimens, and from plants in the gar- den, learn to recognize the various forms by which plants are propagated vegetatively. 2. In the school garden examine all the crops grown, with a view to propagating them. Which are most susceptible to treatment in this way, the crop plants or the permanent species? Can you discover the reason for the difference? 3. In the borders find plants to illustrate propagation by each of the methods given in this book. Make a list of them. 4. Make softwood cuttings and root them in the hotbed or cold frame. 5. In autumn make hardwood cuttings of all the types mentioned, and store as required. In spring, if cuttings of this kind have been left by a former class, try rooting them in the cold frame, in the hot bed, or in the open. 6. Layer any vine that may be convenient in the school garden. Try layering currant bushes for planting later at home. 7. If cions are at hand in time to graft, make several kinds of whip grafts. If materials for practical grafting are not at hand, make grafts of any twigs for practice. 8. Plant seeds of different trees in the experiment plots, for use of the next class in budding and grafting. 9. Bud a convenient plum or peach tree. Each class should plant seeds to produce young trees for this purpose for the next class. If your budding operation is successful, take the plant home and set it out. 10. If a large peach or plum tree is available, set in it buds from other trees bearing different kinds of the same fruit. One may have specimens of all the kinds in the neighborhood by this method. 11. Make grafting wax and carry some home for use in your own grounds. References Bailey, "Manual of Gardening." Goff, " Principles of Plant Culture." Farmers' Bulletins 157. The Propagation of Plants. 408. School Exercises in Plant Production. CHAPTER XIV DECORATIVE PLANTING Purpose. The purpose of decorative planting is to add to the comfort and attractiveness of our surroundings by plant- ing those plants that are conspicuous either for the beauty of their flowers, the color and cutting of their foliage, or the symmetry of their form, thus making homes of houses and parks of wildernesses. Not all planting of this kind, how- ever, can be called decorative. To be entitled to the name it must proceed along definite lines, with a preconceived design in mind ; for unless a definite plan is adhered to, the result is likely to be lacking in harmony and coherence. In planting the home grounds the aim should be to set off the house to the best advantage, emphasizing the good points and concealing the poor ones ; in short, to make a picture, with the house as the central figure and the borders as the frame. Lawn making. Few things add more to the beauty of the home grounds than a broad expanse of well-kept lawn, but this can be produced only by proper care in the making. If the old lawn is unsatisfactory, it is best to spade or plow it up in late fall or early spring and start a new one. The first step in lawn making is to see that the land is properly drained. If it is not, this should be taken care of by one or more lines of tile drain. After digging, the soil should be very thor- oughly worked over until it is well pulverized and carefully leveled. If the soil is lacking in fertility, a quantity of well- rotted manure should be worked into it, or other fertilizers applied. Small lawns should be perfectly level unless the residence is on sloping ground. In the latter case it is much 197 IDS AGRONOMY better to have the lawn slope gently away from the house than to cut it up by banks and terraces, since every divi- sion, whether by path or terrace, tends to make it look smaller than it really is. If terraces cannot be avoided, they are best placed near the house, where they may become, in a measure, a part of the building, or else as far away as possible at the street line or on the borders of the property. On no ac- count should the center of the small lawn be lower than the borders, since a concave surface tends to make distances appear shorter and the lawn, in consequence, smaller. A slightly con- vex surface, on the other hand, gives a more spacious look to the property, and in large lawns the center is often raised slightly to prevent it from look- ing hollow at this point. Since the grasses are cool-weather plants and flag during the summer, it is best to seed the lawn in late fall or early spring, so that the plants may become established before the hot weather sets in. If seeded later, care should be taken that the young plants do FIG. 144. Hickory Creek at Joliet, Illinois An illustration of the way Nature arranges her trees and shrubs DECOKATIVE PLANTING 199 not suffer from drought. Bare spots in an old lawn can be loosened with a rake and reseeded at any time. Occasionally when a lawn is wanted quickly, or the soil on a sloping bank is to be retained, the whole area may be sodded. For this work sods from an old pasture are best, since they consist of only the most resistant grasses and are fairly free from weeds. Ground to be sodded should be prepared as carefully as for seeding. After the sods are laid they should be thoroughly FIG. 145. Forest and stream illustrating Nature's method of planting watered and then beaten into place with the back of a spade or rolled with a heavy roller. It is difficult to make grass grow in deep shade, under evergreen trees and the like, and some other ground cover is often used. Among the best plants for this purpose are the periwinkle or myrtle, lily of the valley, and moneywort. Paths and lawn planting. In small lawns the paths should be straight and direct, but in larger areas they may curve, especially if the surface of the land is uneven. Every path or drive crossing the lawn makes it look smaller and adds to the care that must be bestowed upon it ; no unnecessary walk, 200 AGKONOMY therefore, should be permitted. Paths and drives are often sunk a few inches below the surface of the lawn, which thus conceals or renders them less conspicuous and contributes to the appearance of spaciousness so desirable to maintain. For the same reason the center of the lawn should be kept open and free from flower beds, shrubs, and trees. In large grounds, and in strictly formal planting, such things may be allowed, but they are out of place on the home grounds. The kettles, Photograph by Wagner 1'ark Conservatories, Sidney, Ohio FIG. 146. A corner planted in the natural style vases, sections of sewer pipe, paint buckets, and tubs filled with flowers that are often seen on lawns are in bad taste and should not be tolerated. Such objects, when used at all, should be restricted to formal planting. Occasionally it is desired to separate the lawn from adjoining fields without seeming to do so. This can be accomplished by digging a ditch deep enough to conceal a fence placed in the bottom. The side of the ditch nearer the house may be slightly raised, thus hiding the ditch and making the lawn appear to merge into the fields beyond. DECORATIVE PLANTING 201 Care of the lawn. The care of a well-established lawn con- sists in cutting, fertilizing, watering, and rolling it. It should be cut frequently, and if this is done, the clippings may be left to form a mulch for the grass roots and to prevent the seeds of weeds from becoming established. Cutting the lawn is most easily done in the morning, since at this time the cells of the grass are distended with water and therefore more brittle. The lawn should be watered only when in need of it, and then it should be thoroughly soaked. An occasional heavy watering is much to be preferred to the daily sprinkling that is often given it. The latter causes the surface to bake, and makes the grass more shallow-rooted and more easily burned up in summer. Commercial fertilizers are best for the lawn ; the winter dressing of stable manure so often applied is not only unsightly and unsanitary, but it may introduce many noxious weeds from seeds mixed with the manure. Late in the season the grass may be allowed to grow longer and form a cover for the roots during winter. In early spring the lawn should be carefully raked and then rolled with a heavy roller, to settle back into place any grass roots that may have been lifted by the frost. The border. The shrubs and flowering plants that so often find a place on the lawn are better located on its borders. Here they add a distinct note to the ornamentation of the grounds. Shrubs and flower beds scattered over the lawn give it a spotty appearance, out of all harmony with the rest of the picture. Nor should flowering plants designed for cutting be allowed anywhere on the lawn or in the borders. They are best re- stricted to some part of the garden where the loss of their blossoms will not be so much noticed. The flowering plants in the borders should be allowed to finish their season of bloom undisturbed. In planting the border it should be remembered that Nature always works in curves, and if an appearance of naturalness is to be produced, straight lines 202 AGRONOMY should be avoided. The line where lawn and border meet should be a series of graceful curves, and the shrubs and herbaceous plants should be arranged in irregular groups. In this, one can have no better guide than Nature herself, and a visit to the bushy margins of an old field or the edge of a woodland will be of great assistance to the observant student. In making the outline of the border a stout rope or the garden hose may be used to get the desired curved effect, and the line can then be marked out along this. Arrangement of the plants. Trees, shrubs, vines, and her- baceous plants may all find appropriate locations in the border. FIG. 147. The wrong way to plant shrubs on a lawn Such an arrangement makes a spotty appearance FIG. 148. The correct way to plant a lawn Shrubs arranged on the borders; center of the lawn kept open The trees and shrubs are used to form the framework of the plan, and the less rugged and assertive plants are grouped about them. In arranging them care must be taken that the taller specimens do not shut out the view from the windows and veranda of the house. In large grounds, especially, vistas to distant points in many directions should be maintained. Grounds that have been planted for some time often have these views obscured by an undue growth of shrubbery un- less it is properly trimmed. On the other hand, undesirable views or unsightly objects can be entirely concealed from DECOBATIVE PLANTING 203 view by screens of shrubbery planted for the purpose. A pro- fusion of low-growing shrubs should be used to conceal the foundations of the house, and vines may be trained over walls and pillars, thus carrying the green of the lawn upward and making the house appear more a part of the landscape. Shrubs should rarely be planted singly. Their beauty is greatly enhanced if several are set to form an irregular group, but care must be taken to allow for future growth, else they will soon begin to crowd one FIG. 149. Shrubs in the curves of anot her and fail of their best development. Not only should the line where lawn and border meet be irregular, but the sky line should partake of the same character. This is brought about by alternating groups of tall and shorter shrubs and trees. It is desirable, also, to bring some of the shrubs out toward the margin of the lawn, forming recesses or bays between them in which herbaceous plants may be grown. Shrubs may be planted on the concave side of all curves in paths and drives, thus seeming to give a reason for the curve as well as adding to the spacious appear- ance of the grounds by preventing all parts being seen at once. At the angles where paths intersect, and where " short cuts " are likely to be made, it is well to plant thorny shrubs like the barberry, locust, and prickly ash. Such plantings are also frequently made in the FIG. 150. A corner planting 204 AGRONOMY front of shrubbery where it borders the street, to prevent the encroachment of the public. Shrubs for winter effects. The best-planted grounds are not designed solely for their beauty in summer. A proper selection of shrubbery will not only look well in summer but will add numerous pleasing tints to the winter landscape and brighten the borders with the colors of a milder season. In this class are the bright scarlets and purples of the dogwoods and some willows and wild roses, the yellow and gray of willow and beech, the green of euonymus and cat brier, and the white of the birch and button- wood. At the leafless season, also, the form of the plant is thrown into strong relief, and various species may be planted for the pictur- esque note they add to the winter landscape. Among common species desirable for this pur- pose are the hawthorns, the river birch, black FIG. 151. Method of planting a corner lot, to prevent paths being made across it gum, and Lombardy poplar. Numerous shrubs produce at- tractive fruits that persist far into the winter, supplying food for the winter birds and adding a touch of color to the thick- ets. The winterberry, greenbrier, bittersweet, burning bush, and the roses are good for this purpose. Naming the shrubs and trees. Shrubs and trees are among the most permanent of living things and often outlast the works of man himself. It is desirable, therefore, that the student become acquainted with those commonly planted, either by identifying them by the use of a botanical manual, which is much the better way, or by visiting named collections DECORATIVE PLANTING 205 in parks, botanical gardens, and private grounds. The more permanent of the herbaceous perennials may also be identified. Complete lists of these, with notes on the qualities that make them desirable for planting, may be obtained from the nearest nursery company. A large number of the more desirable are natives of our own fields and woods, and the person inter- ested in decorating his grounds will find many of them ready to his hand in the nearest woodland or thicket. Few exotic species surpass our native elders, sumacs, dogwoods, viburnums, wild crabs, currants, and gooseberries for decorative planting. Trees and shrubs with variegated foliage are usually less hardy than those with green leaves and are seldom satis- factory in the home grounds. Herbaceous plants. Herbaceous plants may be considered in two groups, the annuals and the perennials. The annuals are fre- quently desirable for quickly covering bare spaces and for giving an abundance of bloom, but they require to be planted anew each year, and for most purposes perennials are more desirable. Some of the most showy flowers, however, are an- nuals. We could ill spare such species as morning-glory, four-o'clock, nicotiana, nasturtium, sweet pea, petunia, aster, cosmos, salvia, and verbena, but the best place for most of them is in the flower garden where their beauty may be admired and the flowers removed without injuring the appearance of the FIG. 152. An artificial pond planted with lotus and water lilies 206 AGRONOMY surroundings. Many of the perennial species are desirable for the flowers they produce, but when these are needed for cut- ting, they too should be planted in the flower garden and not the border. Among the better-known perennials are the in lilies, columbines, irises, phloxes, peonies, sunflowers, bell- worts, bleeding hearts, and pinks. Left to themselves, the herbaceous perennials soon form large clumps, which may often be divided and used to make further plantings. Photograph by O. L. Jordan FIG. 153. An old planting in which the border has all the appearance of a natural growth Arrangement of herbaceous perennials. In planting the her- baceous perennials the general rules for planting shrubbery may be followed, especially those regarding mass planting and the avoidance of straight lines. Since they are always planted for the decorative effect of their flowers, they should be placed in front of the shrubbery, which thus forms a natural back- ground and renders the flowers more conspicuous. Tall plants should be placed in the rear and successively smaller ones DECORATIVE PLANTING 207 should carry the belt of verdure down to meet the lawn. A general group of perennials may consist of several sorts inter- mixed, and if care is taken to choose species that bloom at different seasons, a succession of flowers may be had from the same spot during the summer. In mixed plantings, where two kinds of flowers are to bloom at once, or where adjacent plant- ings come into bloom at the same time, one must avoid the planting together of inharmonious colors, such as magenta and scarlet, or purple and blue. White flowers may be used to separate warring colors and also to serve as a foil for all others. Both purple and blue flowers add a sense of distance to the view, and, if planted in bays in the shrubbery, appear to increase the size of the garden. Yellow and red flowers have the opposite effect. By planting them on jutting points they add to the apparent depth of the bays. Hedges. In some cases it is desirable to divide two plots of ground, or to set off the home grounds from the street, by means of a hedge. For repelling intruders or keeping stock within bounds, the hedge is made of some thorny material, such as Osage orange, honey locust, barberry, or buckthorn. About dwellings it is more usual to plant privet, lilac, box, or some of the evergreens like arbor vitse and hemlock. Hedge plants are set thickly in straight lines and are trimmed into shape annually during the summer season. The words " hedge " and " edge " are obviously of similar derivation, and edgings are naturally lines of small plants like small hedges set along the borders of other plantings. Pansies, alyssum, lobelias, and many other low-growing species are used for this purpose. Bulbs. All plants propagated by thickened underground parts are called bulbs by the florist and general gardener, and, for the purposes of planting, no other distinction need be made. The chief value that attaches to bulbs is found in the fact that the flowers are usually showy, and, being formed in the preceding summer, are practically certain to appear when 208 AGRONOMY the bulbs are properly planted, pushing upward almost as soon as the snow is gone and blooming at a time when flowers of any kind are rare. In addition to the spring flowering bulbs there are a few that bloom in summer. Summer flowering species are nearly always tender and have to be dug up and kept from the cold during the winter. The gladiolus and tuberose belong to this class. The spring flowering bulbs are not only hardy but they have to be planted in autumn in time to make root growth if they are to bloom the following spring. During summer they may be dug up and stored in a cool dry place, or they may be allowed to remain in the soil and annuals planted over them. Many low-growing species may be natural- ized on the lawn and will bloom before the grass is high enough to require cutting. If not cut too closely in mowing, they will continue to bloom from year to year. Taller species, such as the daffodil and narcissus, are occasionally naturalized along the margin of streams and the edges of woodlands, where they thrive as well as our native species. In planting the spring flowering bulbs, a well-drained spot, protected on the north and west, should be selected. They may be planted in masses in- formal groups, and as soon as the ground is frozen should be covered with several inches of coarse straw, leaves, or other litter. In spring the mulch should not be removed until the growing plants require it ; otherwise they may be injured by the cold. In the public parks and other large grounds bulbs are frequently arranged in geometrical and other designs. Carpet bedding. This is the term applied to a form of plant- ing in which plants with bright-colored foliage are arranged in formal designs and kept trimmed to an even surface, giving an effect not unlike a carpet or rug. Ribbon bedding is much like this, since it consists in setting plants in long, straight rows. This kind of planting may be used along walks and in other situations where straight lines prevail, but is not adapted to plantings in the natural style. DECORATIVE PLANTING 209 Formal planting. The rules for planting given in this book are for that style of gardening known as the English or natural style. It is patterned closely after nature and is the one most in use in the United States and Great Britain. A more formal method, known as the Italian or geometrical style, once in great vogue and still extensively used in parks and large estates, consists in making all planting on geometrical lines. Here clipped shrubs, plants in vases, sundials, pergolas, angular beds, balustrades, terraces, arbors, fountains, statuary, weeping trees, carpet bedding, and straight lines find an appropriate Photograph from Wagner Park Conservatories, Sidney, Ohio FIG. 154. A formal garden Note how this planting harmonizes with the style of architecture use, and when thus assembled have an attractiveness that is beyond question. Such planting, however, is out of place in the small lawn unless the entire area is treated in the same style. Transplanting shrubs and trees. As a rule, shrubs and trees cannot be transplanted with safety when in full leaf. They are usually moved in autumn after the leaves have fallen or in spring before the buds have pushed forth, but if care is taken to keep the plants from drying out, they may be moved in spring until the leaves are nearly full grown. Nurserymen commonly prolong the planting season by digging up their stock in autumn and keeping it in cold storage until wanted. 210 Specimens may thus be had in a dormant condition long after the same kinds of plants in the field have produced their leaves. In transplanting trees and shrubs die rules that govern the transplanting of garden plants in general may be observed. If many of the large roots have been severed in digging, the top of the specimen must be cut back to balance the loss and Photograph \>y Wagner Park Conservatories, Sidney, Ohio Fi. 155. The natural style of planting applied to the home grounds prevent too great transpiration. In doing this it is better to remove weak branches and superfluous twigs rather than to cut off the top or main branches and thus destroy the natural shape of the specimen. In the case of shrubs, when it may be desirable to retain as many branches as possible, the leaves only may be removed. The removal of the leaves is also prac- ticed in moving shrubs in early autumn before the leaves have fallen. The roots should never be allowed to become DECORATIVE PLANTING 211 dry while transplanting, and, before the specimen is set, all broken and bruised roots should be cut back to the sound wood with a sharp clean cut. Specimens should be set slightly deeper than they stood originally, and it is well to have the same side toward the north. The hole in which the plant is to be set should always be large enough to allow the roots to spread out naturally. This hole is sometimes made by explod- ing a small charge of dynamite, which loosens the subsoil and makes it easy for the new roots to penetrate it. The best soil should be used for filling about the roots and should be well firmed about them. If the plant is set in poor soil, enough good soil should be procured elsewhere to fill up the hole. When the hole is half filled, the plant may be gently worked up and down to settle the earth about the roots, or water may be thrown into the hole for the same purpose. No air spaces about the roots should be permitted. Transplanting herbaceous perennials. As with the woody plants, the best time to transplant herbaceous perennials is in fall or spring, but owing to the fact that these plants are smaller and more easily handled, they may be moved at any time if a few simple rules are observed. In the case of wild plants, many of which are among our most ornamental spe- cies, the rule most frequently followed is, " Transplant when you find them." By using care in the digging, keeping the specimen moist, and protecting from the sun until established in the new locality, one can move almost any specimen without loss even when in bloom. Mulching and heeling in. Newly set herbaceous plants are benefited by a light mulch over their roots, which keeps the moisture from evaporating and the soil from baking. Plants set in autumn should be more heavily mulched as soon as the ground is frozen, and this should not be removed until the frost is out of the ground in spring. Such a mulch prevents the heaving due to the alternate thawing and freezing of the 212 AGRONOMY ground, and is especially desirable in the case of plants in exposed places. More plants are killed annually by having their roots broken when heaved by the frost than by the cold of winter itself. It often happens that more plants are dug than can properly be planted at one time, and in such cases the surplus is heeled in until they can be planted. In heeling in, a trench is dug deep enough to receive the roots, and the plants are placed within this in such a way that the tops rest on the earth. Soil is then thrown on the roots in widening the trench, and then another layer of plants with tops over- lapping the first is put in, and so on. Plants are frequently heeled in over winter. In such cases the roots should be heavily mulched as soon as the ground is frozen, but if the tops are mulched, it may form a retreat for mice that may damage the bark or buds. Plants should always be heeled in in a light, well-drained spot. Treatment of woodlands. The ever-increasing demand for wood in various industries has greatly diminished the immense forests that once covered our country, and the remnant is fast disappearing. All this greatly enhances the value of the tim- ber still standing. In some regions trees are already treated as farm crops, and everywhere there is being manifested a desire to manage the woodlands so that the greatest amount of timber may be obtained from the area they cover. Formerly it was the custom to cut down the entire stand of trees in lumbering and to clear the ground, but at present in all forests where conservative methods are practiced, only the marketable timber is removed and the remainder is left to produce a new crop. The forests may thus be made to yield perennial supplies. Properly cared for, most forests will con- tinue to reproduce themselves. When this does not occur nat- urally, it is usual to plant young trees of the desired variety. In all broken country there are many areas too steep or too infertile to produce ordinary crops, but on which excellent DECORATIVE PLANTING 213 timber can be grown. Many of these are being reforested by planting with young trees. It is probable that in time all such regions will be again covered with forest. At present a wood lot managed as a growing crop of fence posts, railway ties, and telegraph poles may be made to yield quite as much as the same area planted to annual crops, and with no greater amount of labor or capital spent upon it. The steadily advanc- ing prices of all kinds of timber make it clear that in future a much greater revenue may be derived from such wood lots than from the ordinary crops. Enemies of the forest. The three greatest dangers that threaten the forest, aside from wasteful cutting, are fires, in- sects, and plant diseases. To reduce these to a minimum, it is desirable that all dead and dying trees and underbrush that might furnish food for the fire or a lurking place for insects and fungi be removed. Vigorous trees are least susceptible to insect and fungous attacks, and only the best trees should be left to grow. The misshapen specimens and others that crowd the good trees for light and room should be removed. In the forest, trees whose timber is of no value are as much weeds as are mustard and pigweed in a field of grain. In extensive forests, where injury from fires is most likely to occur, the ground is divided into sections by fire lanes broad, cleared strips wide enough to confine the forest fire, once started, to a single section. The custom of allowing cattle to graze in the forest is extremely harmful, since the young trees are destroyed and the perpetuation of the forest prevented. Quite aside from their value as a source of timber and fuel, forests are of great benefit in preventing floods by delaying the run-off from rain and melting snow. In forested areas much of this moisture sinks into the soil, to reappear later in springs which keep the small streams from drying up in summer, 214 AGRONOMY PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. Make a planting plan for a city lot of average size on a scale <>f or ^ in. to the foot, indicating on it the house, walks, and drives, and the location and nature of the planting. 2. From a catalogue of decorative plants, to be had of any nursery- man for the asking, select and list the species suggested for planting your plan. 3. With such suggestions as seem desirable for improving the plant- ing, make a similar plan of your home grounds or of the school grounds. 4. Visit parks, cemeteries, and private grounds for studies in good and bad planting effects. 5. If there are Italian, or formal, and Japanese gardens within reach, visit them and compare with the natural style of planting. 6. Make a planting plan, drawn to scale, of some small park in the vicinity, or make a planting plan for turning some near-by vacant space into a park. 7. Select desirable plants and plant a section of the school-garden border. 8. On Arbor Day plant one or more trees or shrubs on the school grounds, in the school garden, or in your home grounds. 9. At the beginning of winter mulch all plants in the school garden that are likely to be harmed by the cold. Do the same for your own grounds. 10. Make one or more trips to a public park or large private estate, and list all the shrubs found in bloom. Make a s'imilar list of all the perennials. 11. By the use of a good botanical manual name all the shrubs and perennials as they bloom in the school garden and near-by fields during the time devoted to this course. 12. Remove to the school-garden borders for observation all abnor- mal plants encountered, such as four-leaved clovers, albinos, fasciated stems, and the like. References Bailey, " Manual of Gardening." Maynard, "Landscape Gardening." Parsons, "Landscape Gardening Studies." Waugh, "The Landscape Beautiful." Waugh, " Landscape Gardening." CHAPTER XV PRUNING Purpose of pruning. The object of pruning is to repair inju- ries, promote the proper growth of the specimens, and secure more shapely, healthy, and fruitful plants. Many species grow so luxuriantly that they require an an- nual trimming to keep them within bounds. Others, again, may produce a crown of foliage so dense that suffi- cient light and air do not penetrate it; in consequence of this few flower buds are formed, and what fruit is produced is pale in color and poorly flavored. Such a specimen is ben- efited by pruning. Although woody species are the ones usually pruned, a few herbaceous plants commonly receive the same treatment, especially tomatoes, tobacco, okra, and various garden flowers. Many woody plants are self-pruning and annually cut off many of their 215 Photograph by II. L. Hollister Land Co. FIG. 156. Apple blossoms Showing the good results of proper pruning 216 AGRONOMY young twigs. The habit of cutting off the useless flowers after blooming may also be regarded as a form of self-pruning, as is the casting of the leaves in autumn. It is commonly supposed that only flowers that fail to be pollinated are cut off by the plant, but many young fruits are also severed from the branches, otherwise the plant could not make sufficient food for all, and even if it could, the load would be more than it could bear. The advantages to be derived from thinning the fruit on trees heavily loaded is obvious. Time to prune. An old rule for pruning is, " Prune when the knife is sharp," indicating that when a plant needs pruning one time is as good as another, but such a rule has many ex- ceptions. The time for pruning any plant depends somewhat upon the time at which it produces its flowers. Plants that form their flower buds in autumn should not be pruned in winter, as this would remove the embryo flowers and fruits. Such plants should be pruned in spring and summer, shortly after they have fruited and before new flower buds have been formed. On the other hand, many plants produce their flowers on the new wood, that is, on twigs produced from winter buds. These may be pruned in winter, since new and vigorous wood will usually be more floriferous than older twigs. In general, winter pruning increases the amount of wood formed and sum- mer pruning induces flowering. Summer pruning has the ad- vantage over winter pruning in that one may then see how the crown of foliage ,is displayed and may more readily remove branches that shade others. Moreover, the cambium, FIG. 157. A common form of pruning shears PRUNING 217 active at this season, soon covers the wound with a protective layer of bark. One should be careful not to overprune ; a little pruning yearly is much better than more at longer intervals. Pruning implements. A good sharp knife is a most efficient pruning instrument, and the intelligent horticulturist seldom needs anything else. Prun- ing shears with stout blades may take the place of the knife, but when shrubbery has been allowed to go for some time, large branches may require the use of a saw. There are various kinds of pruning shears and saws on the market, some forms of the latter having teeth on both sides of the blade. Methods of pruning. There are several rules that may be observed in pruning any shrub or tree. It is always proper to re- move branches that shade others as well as those that grow toward the interior of the crown. These latter are soon ciit off from the light by the growth of the outside branches, and, if not removed, would soon die anyway. Branches that have grown too rapidly for the symmetry of the plant may be cut back, but in all cases where part of a twig is removed care must be taken to cut above a bud facing outward, else the new growth is likely to grow toward the FIG. 158. An apple tree An example of improper pruning. The tree has been allowed to grow so high that it is difficult to gather the fruit 218 AGRONOMY center. In selecting the branches to remain, every endeavor should be made to have no gaps in the crown of foliage. There should be enough branches to fill it out on all sides. In shap- ing young fruit trees and the like, the branches should not be allowed to spring from a common point, and all forks should be avoided. Looking down upon the specimen and imagining a circle with the trunk of the plant in the center, endeavor to train it in such a way that from three to five main brand ics radiate out at equal distances and form the framework of a well-balanced crown. In setting young fruit trees they are sometimes pruned to mere whips and a new head developed from the fresh twigs that will spring forth. Orchard trees are usually headed low to facilitate gathering the fruit. Making the cut. In removing branches all cuts should be made close to the stem, and no stubs left to harbor insects and the germs of disease. In removing very large limbs there is always danger that they may fall by their own weight and thus tear down the bark and wood of the main stem before the cut is complete. This may be avoided by first making a cut part way through the branch on the underside and a foot or more from the trunk.* A cut from above meeting this or a little beyond it will sever the limb, after which the stub may be sawed off close to the trunk. If the branch removed is more than an inch in diameter, the wound should be immediately covered with a coat of paint or grafting wax to keep out injury from the weather, bacteria, and insects. Scars left by the removal of smaller branches may be disregarded, as the tree will soon cover them with bark. Specimens needing little pruning. The evergreen trees should never be pruned. When properly grown the branches radiate on all sides from the ground up, and the trees lose much of their beauty when trimmed like other trees. An evergreen tree, once deprived of its lower branches, rarely renews them. Shade trees seldom require pruning except to remove dead PEUNING 219 branches and to repair damage by storm. Many shrubs also, among which are lilacs, deutzias, spiraeas, and forsythias, do well without much pruning. The plants most frequently pruned are those grown for their fruit, and the object in pruning is to force them to bear more and better crops by the production of new wood upon which the fruits are borne. In Photograph by II. L. Bollister Land Co. FIG. 159. Cherry trees in bloom in an irrigated orchard temperate regions flowers seldom appear on wood that is more than two years old. In the tropics flowers often appear on the large branches or even the trunks of trees. In the hands of the skilled gardener all the flowering shrubs may be induced to bear the maximum number of flowers by judicious pruning. Pruning special crops. Some plants produce but one crop of flowers and fruits on a Branch, no matter how long it may remain on the plant after fruiting, and such branches are as 220 AGRONOMY well removed as not. Other species form certain short branches, called fruit spurs, that bear many successive crops. It is neces- sary, therefore, to know how each specimen fruits before it can be pruned intelligently. The raspberry and blackberry always fruit on canes grown the previous year and do not bear fruit on these canes a second time. As soon, therefore, as the fruiting season is over, the old canes should be removed to make room for the new ones. When the latter have reached a height of two or three feet, the tips are also removed, which causes side branches to form and increases the wood upon which the fruit is borne. In grapes the fruit is borne upon the new wood, that is, upon wood produced the same year as the fruit. In training these plants it is customary to allow one or more main stems to grow, and these are trained upon posts, wires, or trellises. From each joint of these stems a branch arises which bears fruit. After the crop is gathered these young branches are cut back nearly to the main stem, only mere stubs with two or three buds being left. The following season, when these buds begin to grow, the best are selected to form the fruiting branches for that year. Grapes should be pruned when perfectly dormant. If pruned later than February, they are likely to bleed and to be harmed thereby. Apples, pears, and cherries form short fruit spurs on the old wood. These bear fruit year after year, and care should be taken not to injure them when pruning or FIG. 160. Fruit spurs on the second-year wood of cherry which may bear several crops PEUNING 221 when gathering the fruit. Short- ening the new growth of these trees induces the formation of more fruit spurs. The peach fruits on wood one year old ; that is, branches produced one summer should fruit the next. Since check- ing the growth favors fruiting, cut- ting back part of the new growth late in summer influences the formation of flower buds. The peach is a luxuriant and rapid grower, and, if allowed to go unpruned, is likely to produce more wood than fruit. Currants produce fruit on both the old and new wood, but wood more than three years old is considered unprofitable and may be removed. The new growth tends to produce more fruit buds if it is pinched back to leave from two to six buds on each twig. Thinning. Thinning, or the re- moval of some of the fruit when the tree is overloaded, is a form of pruning. Several advantages are gained by thinning. If all the fruit is left on the tree, the load may be so great as to break the branches, while the effort to pro- duce so great a crop results in a quantity of undersized, flavorless specimens. It is much better to FIG. 161. Two-year-old twig of the peach showing three pedi- cels, or stalks, that produced fruit and will not bear again Photograph by H. L. Hollister Land Co. FIG. 162. Peaches growing on wood of the preceding year Photograph by H. L. Hollister Land Co. FIG. 103. An overloaded branch of a plum tree The fruit should be thinned by removing all small or imperfect specimens 222 PRUNING 223 remove some of the fruit than to endeavor to save it all by propping up the limbs. Overbearing may also weaken the plant so much as to prevent all fruit bearing the following season. In thinning, the effort should be made to have the Photograph by II. L. Hollister Laud Co. FIG. 164. Eome Beauty apples Note that the fruit is produced from short spurs on the old wood fruit uniformly scattered over the tree. The inferior and poorly placed specimens are of course the ones to be removed. Wormy and defective fruits may often be brought down by gently shaking the tree occasionally. 224 AGRONOMY Heading in. Many species, especially when young, make such luxuriant growth that some of it needs to be removed in order that the rest may ripen into strong wood. Removal of Photograph by H. L. Hollister Land Co. FIG. 165. A heavily loaded branch of currants the excess growth is called heading in. The peach, pear, crab, and poplar are among those most frequently headed in, but any rank-growing species may need it. When nearly all the PKUNIKG 225 crown is removed, by cutting off the main branches, this is called pollarding. Poplars and willows are often pollarded, but other trees may be ruined by this process. Heading in may Photograph by H. L. Hollister Land Co. FIG. 166. Young plum tree, heavily loaded with fruit, grown under irrigation be rendered unnecessary by removing the tips of the tender growth with the thumb and finger when it has reached the desired length. This latter operation is called pinching or 226 AGRONOMY stopping. In annual plants pinching induces both branching and flowering. Melon and cucumber vines are often stopped to make them fruit earlier, and raspberries and blackberries are regularly pinched to cause branching. Since the majority of buds form twigs, the removal of the buds may take the place of pruning. This is called disbudding. In annual plants dis- budding is often used to throw the strength of the plant into a few superior flowers or fruits. The florist regularly increases the size of chrysanthemum flowers by removing all but the terminal buds. Other forms of pinching that are self-explana- tory are topping, detasseling, and suckering. Root pruning. In rich soils trees sometimes fail to fruit be- cause of too exuberant growth. In such cases fruiting may be induced by anything that will check the vegetative func- tions. This is often exemplified in trees that have been injured by lightning, defoliated by insects, subjected to an extended drought, or planted in sterile soil. Under any of these condi- tions they are likely to begin fruiting. A geranium plant blooms most freely when it has become pot-bound, that is, when the soil in the pot is crowded with roots, and removing part of the root system of a plant has the same effect. All fruiting may be regarded as a life-saving process, in that it provides the plant with a means for continuing the species, and any injury is likely, therefore, to call it into action. One of the most frequent methods in use is root pruning, in which a trench is dug around the tree and some of the feeding roots cut off, or a sharp spade may be driven into the soil at the proper distance for this purpose. The roots usually extend as far out as the branches ; therefore the distance from the tree at which the roots should be severed depends upon its size. Care should be taken not to remove too many roots at one time, else the plant may be injured. The purpose is merely to check the growth. In some cases it is best to remove part of the roots one year and more the next. PRUNING 227 Girdling. Removing a zone of bark from a tree will kill it because the plant food which passes down through the bark to the roots can no longer reach them and they die of starvation. Girdling a fruiting branch, however, may increase the size of the fruit it bears by retaining in it all the plant food made by the leaves. At the end of the season the branch, of course, dies, since the removal of the bark kills the cambium and pre- vents the formation of new ducts. In plants like the grape, Photograph by II. L. Hollister Land Co. FIG. 167. Young apple orchard in the Northwest The darker specimens are peach trees which will yield several crops of fruit hefore they have to he removed to make room for the apple trees where the fruiting branch is removed at the end of the season anyway, this method is occasionally employed. When a valu- able tree is girdled, it may sometimes be saved by at once re- ducing the top to lessen evaporation, and protecting the wound until new bark can form over it. Bridge grafting may also be resorted to in helping the tree to cover the wound. Cavities and broken limbs. When decay has been allowed to go unchecked until a cavity has been formed in the trunk 228 AGRONOMY of a tree, the life of the specimen may be prolonged by filling the cavity with cement. Before putting in the cement all the dead wood should be removed and the cavity sterilized with any good disinfectant such as corrosive sublimate or copper sulphate. It is also well to give the cavity a good coat of paint or tar. If it is very large, concrete may be used as a filling and cement used to finish off the work. The edges of the cavity should be straightened up and painted, and under normal conditions, if the cement has been made just even with the wood, the bark should soon grow over the wound. When a limb has been partly split off from a tree, or when the trunk has been split by a storm, it may often be saved by bolting it together by an iron bolt extending through both parts. Bind- ing the two together with wire serves only to increase the in- jury, since this soon stops the movement of sap and causes death to the parts. Topiary work. That form of ornamental gardening in which trees and shrubs are sheared into grotesque forms, often sim- ulating animals and the like, is called topiary work. For this purpose evergreen species are usually employed. Hedges, ar- bors, and arches are forms of topiary work. Other examples may often be seen in old cemeteries and on large private grounds. In the formal style of gardening the less grotesque forms are allowable, but all are out of place on home grounds. PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. Visit parks, private grounds, and the trees along the streets for examples of pruning. Do you find any trees that need pruning? any that have been badly pruned ? Make suggestions for improvement. 2. If there are no trees in the school garden to be pruned, visit a bushy field or neglected roadside and practice upon the shrubs and trees found there. 3. Examine fruiting apple, peach, and plum trees, raspberry and cur- rant bushes, and grapevines to discover where the fruit is borne. Later in the season identify the flower buds on species that form them in autumn. PRUNING 229 4. If there are any trees in the neighborhood that have been pol- larded, visit them for study. 5. Try the effect of girdling the branch of some tree that can be spared. 6. Pinch back melons, cucumbers, cosmos, and various erect-growing plants and compare the subsequent growth with that of others of the same kind that have not been so treated. 7. Visit cemeteries, parks, and large private grounds for examples of topiary work. 8. Remove all but the principal flower bud from a plant and com- pare the size of the single flower thus produced with that of the flowers on a similar plant that has not been disbudded. 9. If there are hedges on the school grounds, prune them ; if not, select a desirable spot and plant one. 10. Select two tomato plants as nearly alike as possible. Remove all suckers from one as soon as they appear and allow the other to grow naturally. How does the fruit of the two plants compare in size ? in number? in total weight? 11. Repair any cavities in the trees on the school grounds by the method described in this book. References Bailey, "The Pruning Book." Bailey, ft Manual of Gardening." Fernow, "The Care of Trees." Farmers' Bulletin 181. Pruning. CHAPTER XVI PLANT DISEASES Origin. Plants, like animals, are afflicted with diseases which are caused for the most part by low forms of plant life belong- ing to the great group known as the Thallophytes. Most of these are bacteria or fungi plants without chlorophyll and therefore reduced to the necessity of getting their food ready- made from other organisms. In nourishing themselves they tear down the tissues of the specimen upon which they have fastened, and in due time, if unchecked, may cause its death. Not all, however, thrive upon living things. There are vast numbers that find sustenance in the bodies of dead animals and plants and even in their cast-off parts. Of the latter type are the bacteria of the soil that turn dead vegetation into nitrates and the organisms of decay that resolve dead bodies back into the elements from which they came, thus relieving the soil of forms that would otherwise encumber it. We can easily imagine the confusion that would exist if all the leaves that have fallen in the forest had remained as they were when they fell. The majority of the fungi and bacteria must be classed as helpful species ; it is only when they attack the things we value that they become enemies. As regards the* manner in which they feed, plant pests may be divided into parasites and saprophytes. Parasites feed upon living things, and saprophytes upon dead ones. The organism preyed upon is called the host. In general, parasites are much smaller than saprophytes. The parasites are again divided into the external parasites, which live upon the exterior of the plant and send special organs into its tissues for food; and the internal 230 PLANT DISEASES 231 parasites, which, safe within the tissues of their hosts, bid defiance to most attempts to dislodge or kill them. All the fungi spread by means of spores, minute one-celled bodies that function like the seeds of flowering plants. They are often FIG. 168. Live oak in Audubon Park, New Orleans, covered with Spanish moss (Tillandsia) This is often regarded as a parasite, but it is an independent plant given off in inconceivable numbers. The common field mush- room produces two thousand million spores. Others are capa- ble of shedding a million spores a minute and keeping this up for several days. The largest puffballs may produce twenty million million spores. The spores are extremely small and 232 AGRONOMY light and may float in the air for long distances before coming to rest, thus spreading the species very widely. Like other plants, they need warmth and moisture to grow, and increase most rapidly in warm, cloudy weather. The harmful bacteria in the soil may be carried from one field to another in the dirt FIG. 169. Bacterial wilt of melons From Duggar's "Fungous Diseases of Plants" that adheres to the feet of animals, on the implements used in stirring the soil, and even by currents of water during rains. Number of plant diseases. An immense number of organ- isms produce disease in plants, and if these could all live on the first species encountered, it is likely that few plants of any kind would come to maturity. Fortunately most plant diseases are restricted to a single species or a related group PLANT DISEASES 233 of species ; hence plants of one kind may be grown without danger close beside other kinds that are diseased. These organisms that cause disease are usually given the name of the effect they produce. Among the more familiar are the rots, smuts, rusts, mildews, blights, and wilts. Often the causal organisms are not closely re- lated, but if they produce simi- lar effects, they are likely to be named accordingly, just as a rise in temperature in man is called a fever, no matter what its cause. Some of the more common plant diseases are men- tioned here ; others may be found described in the reports of agricultural experiment sta- tions and in manuals devoted to the subject. Rots. Many kinds of fruits and vegetables are attacked by rots which cause their tissues to break down into a watery mass and thus spoil the specimen. Good examples are found in the rot of apples and other fruits, carrots, cabbage, and the like. The wet rot of potatoes is another familiar form. Rots are caused both by bacteria and other fungi. Wilts. The wilts are readily recognized from the fact that the leaves of the plant attacked begin at once to droop and soon after the death of the individual ensues. In many cases the wilting is caused by the fungus growing in the ducts of the plant and thus shutting off its supply of moisture. FIG. 170. Mildew of cherry From Duggar's " Fungous Diseases of Plants " 234 AGRONOMY Blights. Blights affect the leaves of plants, often caus- ing them to slirivel as if touched by fire and soon resulting in their death. The potato blight may spread through an entire crop and effect its ruin in two or three days. Leaf spot. The leaves of plants are frequently attacked FIG. 171. Mildew of peaches From Duggar's " Fungous Diseases of Plants " by fungi that cause discolored spots in the tissues. Sometimes these are sufficiently numerous to cause the death of the plant or render it unfit for food. FIG. 172. Leaf spot on pear From Duggar's " Fungous Diseases of Plants " The brown spots that appear on bean pods and other fruits are closely allied to the leaf-spot diseases. PLANT DISEASES 235 Molds and mildews. The molds and mildews may be either parasites or saprophytes. As parasites they cover the leaves of many species with a cottony or powdery growth which is FIG. 173. Downy mildew on the grape From Duggar's "Fungous Diseases of Plants" the plant body, or they push into the interior of the plant, whence later their spores are released. The plants are often called downy mildews, to distinguish them from other species. One form of mildew is nearly always present on the lilac, and '236 AGKONOMY others are common on the grape, woodbine, and willow ; in fact, there are few species of cultivated plants that do not FIG. 174. The hollyhock rust The small dots are the fruiting bodies containing multitudes of spores From Duggar's "Fungous Diseases of Plants" harbor some form of mildew. The damping-off fungus which attacks young seedlings at the point where the stem leaves the soil may be included in this group. PLANT DISEASES 237 Smuts. The smuts cause the black powdery masses that are often to be seen upon corn, oats, and other grains. They are particularly fond of mem- bers of the grass family. Their spores germinate in spring soon after the seeds of the plants which they infect begin to grow. Get- ting into the plant through the stomata or through a break in the tissues, they grow with the growing plant until seeds begin to be formed. At this point they fill up the young seed with their own tissues and soon produce a mass of exceedingly minute black spores that float away to infect other plants, or that cling to the seeds of the plants upon which they grow, and are transported with them. The seeds of oats are often treated with formalin or hot water to destroy the spores before they are planted. Rusts. The rusts cause rusty brownish or blackish patches on the leaves and stems of many plants. Fields of wheat or corn, late in the season, will furnish good examples, and others may be found in asparagus beds. Often the wheat rust is so abundant as to FIG. 175. Anthracnose of beans From Duggar's " Fungous Diseases of Plants" 238 AGRONOMY ruin the crop. There are numerous species of rust, each re- stricted for the most part to a limited number of hosts. One of the most remarkable features of their life history is the fact that two different species of plants are usually required to complete their round of existence. The wheat rust is found in spring upon the barberry and not until later does it infect the wheat plant. The corn rust grows first upon a species of oxalis ; the apple rust upon coniferous trees. Late in the season the rusts produce spores which last through the whiter FIG. 176. Apples affected by apple scab From Duggar's " Fungous Diseases of Plants " and set up the infection upon the first host plant again. It occasionally happens that the first of the two plants necessary for a complete life cycle of a rust is absent from the locality. In this event most species are able to omit this part of the cycle and begin at once upon the second host. Many rusts produce no less than four different kinds of spores. Wound parasites. Many enemies of the woody plants are fungi that gain entrance through wounds, as where a branch has been torn off by the wind, or through a break in the bark caused by insects or mammals. These parasites live upon the old parts of the tree until well established, but ultimately extend to the living parts and cause their death. Often their PLANT DISEASES 239 presence is not suspected until the spore-bearing parts appear, and then it is too late to eradicate them. The oyster mush- room and some of the shelf fungi are among the better known of the wound parasites. The entrance of such parasites may be prevented by promptly covering all wounds with paint or grafting wax. Other plant diseases. The list of plant diseases is a very long one. It includes the black knot on plum, fire blight of FIG. 177. Potatoes affected, by potato scab From Duggar's "Fungous Diseases of Plants" the apple and pear, peach yellows, plum pockets, potato scab, cedar apples, witches'-brooms, peach-leaf curl, clubroot of cabbage, anthracnoses, and a host of others. It is usually not necessary to positively identify the organism causing the dis- ease in order to remedy it, since what will control one disease will be likely to control all the others like it. The main thing is to discover the trouble before it has had time to spread, and to take prompt measures for its suppression. In a majority of cases the most efficient treatment is to spray with some 240 AGRONOMY good fungicide, meanwhile removing all affected plants if the disease has progressed very far. Sprays and spraying. The spray to be used for fungi de- pends partly upon the time of the year in which it is applied, and partly upon the kind of fungus to be exterminated. When the plants are leafless and dormant, the lime and sulphur wash is the one to be applied, while the Bordeaux mixture and the ammoniacal copper carbonate solution may be used as the buds begin to open and at intervals throughout the summer. As yet there is no known remedy against some plant diseases. Fire blight of the apple and pear, in which the branches die from the tip inward as if touched by fire, is one of these. The only way to save specimens attacked by it is to cut out the blight a foot or more below the part affected as soon as it appears. As a general thing, internal parasites are not injured by sprays, though they may be kept from spreading by such means. External parasites are usually killed outright. When in doubt as to the proper spray to use, it is a good rule to choose Bordeaux. Powdered sulphur sprinkled upon the leaves is also of use, especially in combating mildew. Bordeaux mixture. The spray mixture adapted to the great- est variety of us"es is undoubtedly Bordeaux mixture, made from lime and copper sulphate or "bluestone." A standard mixture consists of 5 pounds of copper sulphate, 5 pounds of lime, and 50 gallons of water. To make it, the lime and copper sulphate are dissolved in a little water in separate receptacles, and then further diluted with about half of the 50 gallons before mixing. If mixed without diluting, it makes a thick curdled mass that does not readily mix with the water. When properly mixed the liquid should be of a brilliant, sky- blue color. Three or four pounds of soap are sometimes added. The lime in this mixture is chiefly used to neutralize the copper sulphate, and it should always be in excess of the quantity needed for this. The solution may be tested by PLANT DISEASES 241 dipping into it any bright piece of steel. If it has a coating of copper upon it when withdrawn, more lime should be added. Another test is to put a few drops of potassium ferrocyanide into a little of the solution. If it turns brick red, more lime is needed. If the potassium ferrocyanide remains yellow, suffi- cient lime is present. An excess of lime does no harm. The mixture here described is often known as the 5-5-50 solution, the numbers referring to the quantity of each ingredient employed. Other proportions may be taken : the 4-4-50 and the 3-3-50 are pop- ular. The mix- ture should be strained before using. This spray does not poison insects, and if a poison is desired with it, arsenate of lead in the pro- portion of two or three pounds to fifty gallons may be added. Copper sulphate is often used alone with water in the proportion of one pound to twenty gallons. This can be used only before the buds open, never on the leaves. Lime-sulphur wash. For spraying all woody plants in the dormant condition, the lime-sulphur wash is preferred. It consists of fifteen pounds each of lime and sulphur and fifty gallons of water. To make it, bring the water to the boiling point and add the lime. Make a paste with the sul- phur and a small quantity of hot water, add to the boiling Photograph by Bateman Manufacturing Co. FIG. 178. Spraying a young fruit tree by means of a bucket pump sprayer 242 AGRONOMY mixture, and continue boiling for about half an hour. Five or ten pounds of salt is often added while boiling. This mixture does not keep and should be used as soon as made. The wash may also be made by taking double the quantity of lime, slaking it with boiling water, and adding the sulphur while still hot; or the heat developed by the lime in .slaking may be sufficient. This latter is called the unboiled wash. FIG. 179. Potato field attacked by late blight, showing the difference between sprayed and unsprayed rows From Duggar's " Fungous Diseases of Plants " Ammoniacal copper carbonate. This spray is made by add- ing five ounces of copper carbonate and three pints of am- monia to about fifty gallons of water. A paste is first made with the copper carbonate and a little water, the ammonia is added, and then the rest of the water. The mixture should stand until it settles, and only the clear liquid on top should be used. This spray is effective against rusts, leaf spots, and blights. PLANT DISEASES 243 Potassium sulphide solution. The potassium sulphide solu- tion is made by mixing one ounce of liver of sulphur with three gallons of water. It is used as soon as made, and is an excellent remedy for mildews. Preventive measures. Since few plant diseases can be com- pletely cured and many are only held in check with difficulty, it is wise to take every precaution against the entry of dis- ease. Some plants are more resistant than others of the same species, and these should be grown. In some cases it seems possible to breed up a resistant strain. Disease always attacks the less thrifty individuals first. Plants should be kept in good health by proper cultivation and thus rendered more resistant. Diseased plants, when they occur, should be removed and burned. If allowed to remain, they only spread the trouble to other healthy individuals. Burning the plants kills the spores that might otherwise set up new areas of infection. PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. List the plant diseases known to be in your locality. Underscore the most destructive. 2. Tear apart decaying logs and examine the white threadlike growths which form the plant body of the higher fungi. See if you can trace the fruiting parts of puffballs, mushrooms, and shelf fungi to such plant bodies. 3. Examine the "smoke" from a puffball with microscope. The small objects seen are spores. Draw several. 4. Make a spore print by placing the cap or top of a mushroom, with gills down, upon a piece of clean paper. Cover with a bell jar or drinking glass for a day. The spores will be discharged in immense quantities. Some species have white spores, and these will show best if colored paper is used. 5. Make a collection of leaves and stems to show rusts, mildews, leaf spots, and smuts. These should be preserved, with proper labels, for the use of other classes. 6. Scrape off some spores from specimens affected with rust and examine with the microscope. The summer spores are one celled, but the winter spores are usually two or several celled. 244 AGRONOMY 7. Remove some of the ascocarps of lilac mildew from a lilac leaf (they appear to the unaided eye like small black specks) and examine with the microscope. Compare with the fruiting parts of any other mildew you can find. Crush the ascocarps to see ascospores and asci. Make a collection of mildewed leaves. The fruiting bodies, or ascocarps, are likely to be mature in late summer. 8. Make a collection of the fungi that grow on wood. 9. Visit museums for other kinds of fungi. 10. Make a collection of the different ingredients used in making insect sprays. 11. Make up standard solutions of the various sprays and use in the garden. If no plants there need spraying, spray those that are most likely to need it. 12. Visit a hardware or implement store and study the various forms of sprayers in stock. References Bailey, "Manual of Gardening." Duggar, " Fungous Diseases of Plants." Stevens and Hall, " Diseases of Economic Plants." Farmers' Bulletins 75. The Grain Smuts. 146. Insecticides and Fungicides. 227. Lime-Sulphur-Salt Wash. 231. Spraying for Cucumber and Melon Wilt. 243. Fungicides. 259. Disease-Resistant Crops. Bureau of Plant Industry 17. Some Diseases of the Cowpea. 76. Copper as an Insecticide. 171. Some Fungous Diseases of Economic Importance. CHAPTER XVII INSECT PESTS How insects injure plants. After the young plants have broken through the soil with every indication of becoming thrifty and fruitful specimens, or after older and well-estab- lished plants have given indications of an abundant crop, a multitude of fungous and insect pests have still to be reckoned with by the gardener before a return for his labor is assured. Nearly all the insects that prey upon cultivated plants are so voracious and multiply in such numbers that the crop is some- times destroyed in spite of every effort of the gardener to pre- vent it. It is estimated that insects and plant diseases cause more than a billion dollars' damage to crops each year. As regards the way in which they injure crops, insects may be divided into two groups those with mouth parts adapted to chewing, and those with mouth parts adapted to sucking. The chewing insects harm the plants by eating stems and foliage, or by burrowing into fruits, stems, and other plant parts. The sucking insects do not defoliate the plant, but by sucking the juices from the tender tissues they are nearly or quite as harm- ful. Chewing insects may be controlled by poisons, but such substances have no effect upon sucking insects whose food comes entirely from the interior of the leaf. These latter must be fought with smothering sprays and gases. Metamorphoses of insects. There are two general lines along which insects develop from the egg to maturity. In grasshop- pers, crickets, katydids, and the like, the newly hatched insect has considerable resemblance to adult forms and gradually acquires the characters of maturity as it grows in size. Such 245 246 AGRONOMY insects are said to have an incomplete metamorphosis. The great majority of insects, however, have a complete metamor- phosis. When hatched they show no sign of the kind of adult insects they are designed to be. They begin life as wormlike creatures called caterpillars or worms, though it should be understood that they are not closely related to the true worms, such as the earthworm. The young worms, or more properly the larvce, feed voraciously until they reach maturity, increas- ing rapidly in size and casting their skins from time to time as these become too small. When full-grown they stop feed- ing and either spin a cocoon about themselves or creep away into some safe shelter under a loose piece of bark, along old fences, or even in the soil, where they remain motionless for several days, weeks, or months, during which time they undergo great changes in form and structure. This stage is called the pupa stage and is the one in which large numbers pass the winter. At length there emerges from the dull and motionless pupa a winged insect, often brightly colored, which flies away to mate and deposit eggs upon the proper food plant and thus start the life cycle anew. Forms of insects that cause injury. Crops may be injured by insects in either the larval or adult stage. An insect is seldom equally harmful in both stages. Usually the greatest damage is caused by the voracious larvse, the mature insects often living on the nectar of flowers and frequently being beneficial as agents for the transfer of the pollen. In some cases the larvae are much less destructive than the mature insects, possibly because they feed on plants that are not valued by man, while others, like the potato bug and the asparagus beetle, in both their larval and adult stages are injurious to crops. Some of the more harmful insects are mentioned in this book. Many others, less widely distributed, though often as destructive in restricted localities, may be found in any work on entomology. As with plant diseases, INSECT PESTS 247 it is usually not necessary to identify the exact species that causes the damage. It is sufficient to know how they injure the crops and to be able to adopt the methods that will most readily exterminate them. Cutworms. Cutworms are dull, earth-colored, or striped worms that seek refuge in the soil during the day, coming out at night to feed. They cause" immense losses to many culti- vated crops, cutting off the young seedlings just as they appear aboveground and often following along a row until all the plants are taken. Some climbing species creep up the stems of plants and cut off their tops or even ascend trees to feed on the buds. In some grounds they occur in great numbers. Two hundred or more have been taken out of a single row sixty feet long. They are very hard to exterminate, owing to their nocturnal habits and manner of hiding, but they may some- tunes be killed by putting poisoned food about their haunts. Clover, pigweed, or other tender vegetation sprayed with poison makes attractive bait. Cabbage, tomato, and other plants grown singly may be protected by a collar of stiff paper about the stems at the surface of the ground. When evidences of the work of cutworms is seen, the worms should be dug out and killed. This is easy, since they do not go very far to hide during the day. One method of keeping them in check is to pick them by hand at night by the light of a lantern. The half- grown cutworms spend the winter in the earth, and cultivating the soil up to the time of frost tends to reduce their num- bers. The mature insect is a dull-colored moth of nocturnal habits and is seldom recognized. Cabbage worm. The cabbage worm is a light green, smooth worm that infests cabbage, cauliflower, turnip, and other plants of the cress family. It feeds on the leaves, and when resting extends along the veins, which it so closely resembles as to be frequently overlooked. The worms may be easily poisoned. This does not injure the cabbage for food, since the leaves are 248 AGRONOMY wrapped in such a way that the poison cannot penetrate to the edible portion of the head. The small white butterfly, so common in cabbage patches, is the mature form of this species. Currant worm. Two broods of the currant worm occur annually : the first appears before the fruit is ripe ; the second about midsummer. The currant worm is a green- and black- spotted larva and so voracious that a small colony will defo- liate a currant or gooseberry bush in a very short time if not checked. It is easily controlled by poisons, white hellebore being one of the best for use in small gardens. Tomato worm. The tomato worm is a very large, smooth green worm with a hornlike projection at one end and oblique white markings on its sides. On account of its large size it is easily located by the gardener and falls an easy prey to para- sitic insects. It passes the pupa stage in the earth and is often dug up when the ground is spaded in spring. At this stage it may be identified by a curved projection extending down one side like a handle. At maturity it becomes one of the sphinx or humming-bird moths often seen about long-tubed flowers in the late afternoon. A related species does much damage to crops of tobacco. Corn-ear worm. The corn-ear worm is closely allied to the cutworms and army worms, but is found on or within the re- productive parts of the corn plant. It destroys the tassel by eating it off, and later creeps down into the ear between the husks and the cob, eating the kernels as it goes and ruining the ear for food. There is no known preventive for it at present. Tent caterpillar. The webworms, or tent caterpillars, are readily recognized by the webs they spin on trees and bushes and within which they feed. These webs may be removed and the insects destroyed by burning them out with a torch made of a piece of cloth wound about the end of a pole and saturated with kerosene. A corncob soaked in oil and fastened to a pole also makes a good torch. INSECT PESTS 249 Codlin moth. The larva of the codliu moth is a small white worm that is often discovered feeding in the fruit of the apple. The mature insect lays her eggs in the blossoms and the very young fruit, and after the larva hatches out it enters the fruit, usually at the blossom end. To prevent its depredations the trees must be sprayed as soon as the petals fall and while the calyx is still open. Curculio. The curculio is a small white worm that inhabits the fruit of the peach, plum, cherry, and similar species. The eggs are inserted just beneath the skin of the young fruit, and the worm hatches out and feeds upon the pulp. Poisons have no effect upon the worm, but the trees may be sprayed with poisons to protect them from the mature insect. Peaches, how- ever, and stone fruits in general, are very sensitive to sprays, and instead of using such methods the trees may be jarred every morning for some days after flowering and the insects caught, as they fall from the trees, and burned. Cankerworms. The cankerworms are also called inchworms, measuring worms, and spanworms. They eat the foliage of many plants, and, when disturbed, drop to the ground on the end of a long thread which they spin. The pupa stage is passed in the soil. The female is wingless and climbs the trees to lay her eggs. Her ascent may be stopped by a band of cloth or cotton around the trunk. Beneath this she will hide and may then be caught and killed. Borers. Numerous species of borers infest the trunks of trees and occasionally other parts as well. They make their burrows in the wood and bark, weakening the stem, destroy- ing the cambium, and causing the death of the tree. Their presence is indicated by small mounds of fine wood dust about the base of the trees, or by the gum that oozes out of the wounds in some species. Borers should be cut out as soon as discovered, or killed by pushing a stout wire into their burrows until it crushes them. In some cases a few drops of 250 AGRONOMY carbon disulphide injected into their burrows with a small oil can, and the opening afterwards plugged up, is effective. Elm-leaf beetle. The elm-leaf beetle is a small beetle that destroys the leaves on elm trees. It is very destructive, but at present is practically confined to the New England States. It may be controlled by sprays. Cucumber beetle. The cucumber beetle is a small yellow- and black-striped insect that is very destructive to cucumbers, melons, and allied plants by eating the leaves of the seedlings. The young plants are sometimes protected by frames covered with screen, or they may be sprayed with poisons or dusted with white hellebore. Blister beetles. The blister beetles are long-necked, black or gray insects that feed on the foliage and flowers of many species. They very frequently injure the flowers of composite plants, such as asters, by eating the ray flowers. Hand picking and spraying with poisons are the only remedies. Potato beetle. The potato beetle is more commonly known as the potato bug. The mature insect is a nearly hemispheri- cal creature with pale yellow and black stripes, and the larvae are repulsive-looking red objects with black markings. This insect is usually most abundant on potato plants, the foliage of which is eaten by both the larvae and the mature insects. Usually the plants are soon killed if they are not protected. Hand pick- A potato beetle J ing and spraying with Paris green or other poisons will keep the pest within bounds. May beetles. The larvae of the May beetle or June bug are the whitish grubs common in grasslands and not infrequently found in cultivated fields as well. They feed underground and often do much damage by eating the roots of plants. The mature insect is a brownish beetle familiar to all by its habit of buzzing around the lights in spring. INSECT PESTS 251 Plant lice, or aphids. Plant lice are small, usually wing- less insects, black, green, orange, or white in color, that are found on the stems, the underside of the leaves, and even on the roots of plants. They increase in number with incredible rapidity, and when a colony gets crowded, winged individu- als are produced that may spread the species to other plants. They suck the juice from the tender parts and weaken or kill the plants upon which they are allowed to thrive. One species that frequents lettuce, peas, and other cultivated crops is known as the green fly or green bug. Plant lice excrete a sweetish fluid that is greatly relished by ants, and the latter may usu- ally be found in attendance upon them. Ants also contribute to the spread of the aphids by carrying some of them off to new pastures when the colony on a given leaf becomes crowded. The attendant ant of the corn-root louse actually carries the aphids off to a safe place and cares for them until the corn is up and then places them on the roots of the young plants, where they spend the rest of the summer. Squash bug. The squash bugs are large angular insects found on the underside of the leaves of squash, pumpkin, and the like. They F have an exceedingly disagreeable odor and ^ squash bug are commonly known as " stinkbugs." The egg masses are conspicuous as large, shining brown patches and may be gathered by hand and burned. Kerosene emulsion may be used as a spray for the mature insects. Mealybug. House plants and the specimens of the florist often become infested with mealy bugs. These are small fuzzy insects, white in color, that suck the juices from plants and are hard to exterminate because ordinary sprays do not harm them. No absolutely certain remedy seems to be known. Scale insects. In appearance scale insects are minute scale- like objects clinging close to the bark of young trees of many 252 AGRONOMY FIG. 182. Scale insects on a maple leaf kinds, often covering every available spot. The scale is a waxy substance secreted by the insect, and under this it lives, sucking the juice from the tree and multiplying rapidly. If not eradicated, it will ultimately cause the death of the plant. Strong sprays that can be used when the plant is dormant are most useful in combating this pest. The lime-sulphur spray used against fungous pests is also effective against this one, although it can be used in winter only. Preventing attacks of insects. It is more difficult to protect plants from winged insects than from creeping ones, since the former can go from one plant to another through the air. Creeping insects may be trapped or repelled in numerous ways. The foliage of plants likely to be attacked may be sprinkled with ashes or slaked lime. Bands of sticky paper or tar may check the advances of climbing species, and whitewashing the trunks of trees will discourage many others. Small plants may be screened, but, in general, poisons and sprays are most effective. Bands of cotton fastened about the trunks of trees some distance from the ground are favorite hiding places for many insects, which may thus be easily caught and killed. Poisons for chewing insects. For all kinds of chewing insects one of the poisons adapted to the purpose should be used. Of these the most useful for general purposes in the small garden is white hellebore, which may be procured at any drug store. This may be sprayed on the infested plants in the proportion of 1 ounce to 3 gallons of water, or it may simply be dusted on the foliage when wet with the dew. White hellebore is not so poisonous as some of the other remedies used, but its convenience serves to recommend it. Paris green, an INSECT PESTS 253 aceto-arsenite of copper, is a dry green powder extensively used upon field crops. It is made up in various strengths with water, 1 pound to 150 gallons being near the average. When used on stone fruits it is made much weaker, while for potatoes it is used stronger. In preparing it the poison is formed into a paste with 3 or 4 pounds of lime and a little water and is then diluted to the proper degree. The foliage Photograph by Batemau Manufacturing Co. FIG. 183. Spraying trees in winter to destroy scale insects of many plants is injured by Paris green, and it is gradually being replaced by arsenate of lead, which does not have this defect. Arsenate of lead is a white pasty mixture that may be purchased of dealers in seeds or drugs. It is used as a spray in the proportion of 2 or 3 pounds to 50 gallons of water. The poison sticks well and does not injure the foliage, two qualities which make it desirable. Poisons should not be left where children and farm animals may find them. 254 AGRONOMY Remedies against sucking insects. Poisonous sprays have no effect upon insects which suck the juices out of plants. These insects must be killed by suffocating them in various ways. One of the best and cheapest insecticides for this pur- pose is Persian insect powder, for sale by all druggists. It may be applied by means of a small bellows, and is very efficient in clearing insects out of small crevices where sprays have diffi- culty in penetrating. The standard spray is kerosene emulsion, made by adding 2 gallons of kerosene to 1 gallon of hot soft water in which half a pound of soap has been dissolved. This is then very thoroughly churned in order to make an emulsion that will mix with water. When wanted for use, it is diluted with from 10 to 30 gallons of soft water. The strong solutions are used for scale insects ; the weaker ones for plant lice. Whale-oil soap is often used for house plants and greenhouse specimens. The spray is made by dissolving 2 pounds of whale-oil soap in 1 gallon of soft water. A strong soapsuds, made from any kind of soap (naphtha soap pre- ferred), is also useful. Tobacco water is made by pouring hot water over a quantity of tobacco stems and allowing them to steep for several hours. This liquid is then diluted and used as a spray. In plant houses, cold frames, and the like, tobacco smoke is often relied upon for killing aphids. Carbon disulphide, which may be purchased of the druggist, is an ill-smelling liquid that turns to gas as soon as exposed to the air. It is heavier than air and may be used to exterminate ants and other vermin that burrow underground. A little of the liquid is poured into the entrance of the burrow, which is then stopped up. Carbon disulphide is very inflammable and should not be used where there are fires of any kind. In the larger operations of the horticulturist hydrocyanic gas is sometimes used. It is a deadly poison and must be handled with great caution. In fumigating with this, a tentlike covering is placed about the entire plant and filled with the gas. INSECT PESTS 255 Spray pumps. Many kinds of spray pumps designed to throw liquid upon the plants in minute droplets are for sale by dealers. Sprayers or atomizers quite effective enough for small gardens may be had for as little as fifty cents. Some pumps may be used with an ordinary bucket, and others are carried like a knapsack. For large fields spray pumps drawn by horses are used. In lieu of a spray pump the liquids may be sprinkled on the plants by hand, using a bunch of twigs or a whisk broom for the purpose. Other aids in fighting insects. Although insects often mul- tiply prodigiously and may suddenly become exceedingly numerous in a locality, it is seldom that an unusual increase FIG. 184. A good form of hand sprayer is long maintained. The number of insects averages about the same from year to year. This is doubtless due to the fact that each species has its own natural enemies, and when it becomes abundant, the species that prey upon it also become more numerous and soon reduce it. One of the most powerful of these enemies is the common toad. This animal lives entirely upon insects and is not very particular as to the kind. In the course of a single summer it destroys many thousands of harmful ones. Small snakes also live upon insects and mice, while the usefulness of birds as insect eaters is well known. A large number of the latter, among which are the wood- peckers, swallows, warblers, vireos, and wrens, are entirely insectivorous, while others that eat some seeds make insects 256 ACROXOMY FIG. 185. Ladybng Showing larvae and mature insect the bulk of their diet, seeming to prefer them to seeds. Even those listed as true seed eaters do not feed to any great extent upon the seeds of cultivated plants, and usually feed their young upon insects. In- sects also have their contagious diseases, and may be exterminated by spreading the infection among them. Last, but by no means least, are the insects that prey upon others. The dragonfly, often called the mosquito hawk, feeds almost exclu- sively upon mosquitoes ; the tiger beetle attacks and kills many kinds of in- sects ; the ant lion preys upon ants ; ground beetles eat the eggs of other species ; the spider cap- tures flies, grasshoppers, crickets, and the like ; and certain wasps stock the larder for their young with captured flies. The ladybird, or ladybuy, lives almost entirely upon aphids and scale insects, both in the larval and the mature state, and is one of the most effec- tive aids we have in keeping these pests in check. Most remarkable of all, however, are the ichneumon flies which deposit their eggs in the larvae of other insects. Some are equipped with long oviposi- tors, by means of which they are FIG. 186. One of the larger ich- neumon flies. (About natural size) able to reach the larvse of boring species, deep in the trunks of trees. When the eggs hatch, the young worms live upon INSECT PESTS 257 the tissues of their host, instinctively avoiding the vital parts until, having reached maturity, they eat their way out to the air and spin their small cocoons upon the body of their host. Soon the perfect insect emerges and flies away to look for new victims, leaving the parasitized host to die. The tomato worm is very frequently parasitized, and a search in any large tomato patch late in summer will probably reveal many worms cov- ered with the tiny white cocoons of the parasite. PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. Make a list of the insects injurious to plants in your locality, showing what crops they injure. Underscore the chewing insects in the list. 2. Place a cross before the names of insects in the preceding list that have been found in the school garden. 3. Make a list of the five most destructive insects in your locality and indicate whether it is the larvae or perfect insect that does the damage. 4. Make a collecting trip for insects, securing, if possible, eggs, larvae, pupae, and perfect insects of the same species. This may be pos- sible with the cabbage worm and a few others. Catch young crickets or grasshoppers and compare with mature forms. 5. Search tomato vines for parasitized tomato worms. Similarly, parasitized worms may be found on grapevines, the box elder, the apple, and many others. 6. Collect and label samples of all of the poisons used for combat- ing insects. 7. Examine collections of insects for the dragon flies, ladybugs, ichneumon flies, ant lions, and other insects that prey upon harmful species. References Bailey, "Manual of Gardening." Fernow, "Care of Trees." Farmers' Bulletins 99. Insects Injurious to Shade Trees. 127. Important Insecticides. 146. Insecticides and Fungicides. 155. How Insects affect the Health in Rural Districts. 196. Usefulness of the Common Toad. CHAPTER XVIII PLANT BREEDING Need for breeding. It is well known that fruits and flmvns as they grow in the wild rarely attain the perfection of which they are capable under more favorable circumstances. The struggle for sufficient light and food materials, the constant conflict with insects and disease, and the vicissitudes to which the plants are exposed by the climate of the region all operate to reduce that vitality which otherwise might be expended in Photograph by U. L. Ilollieter Land Co. FIG. 187. Four potatoes to the yard These are the result of irrigation farming brighter flowers and larger, better-flavored, and more abundant fruits. All cultivation is in recognition of this fact ; reduced to its simplest terms, it is the selection of the most likely plants, the supplying them with abundant food, and the pro- tecting of them from their enemies. Cultivation always results in better and larger crops, but man has not been content to rest here. Having been taught by this experience that plants can be greatly modified by proper treatment, he is ever on the watch to extend his operations further and produce still better 268 PLANT BKEEDING 259 specimens. This work of improving plants by inducing them to attain the highest development possible is called plant breeding. Basis for breeding. The work of plant breeding is made possible by the fact that all plants tend to vary within certain limits. There is probably no species that is absolutely fixed as to type, though some vary more than others. Even in the plants which present the least amount of variation, nobody ever saw two plants or even two leaves that were exactly alike. Usually the plants that vary most come from families that contain great num- bers of species ; in fact, the species them- selves may be looked upon as illustrations of greater variations from the original stock which have been developed through ages of natural selection. Every one is so familiar with the slight variations that occur in all plants that they seldom occasion remark. In any large area devoted to a single species we expect to find the tall and the short, the branched and the unbranched, the smooth and the hairy, the pale and the more deeply colored, the vigorous and the sickly, the drought-resistant and the less hardy. It is only when variation is manifested in the plant parts with which we are especially concerned, such as the size and color of the flowers or the abundance, size, and flavor of the fruits, that we notice it and endeavor to make these favorable variations permanent. That they can be made permanent, or even in- creased in value, is shown by the superior plants everywhere seen in cultivation. Strongly marked variations are usually apparent in the seedlings soon after they have started into growth, but others may not appear until the species has reached maturity. The point of departure for most plant FIG. 188. A gera- nium sport, show- ing one truss of flowers growing out of another 260 AGRONOMY breeding is found in the seeds, however. Iy repeated sow- ings of great numbers of seeds one will ultimately secure the material necessary for a start and can then breed from it. The common cut-leaved maple was not found until a million maple seeds had been sown. and it is said that a bushel of apple seeds were sown before that desirable form, the wealthy apple, was secured. The weeping mulberry was an accidental seedling that sprung into being fully developed, and the Lombardy poplar is re- garded as a sport from the Eu- ropean black poplar. In the more permanent plants, such as shrubs and trees, variations occur which are often confined to a single branch or a single cluster of flowers. These are called bud variations. Good illustrations may be found in the nectarine, which is regarded as a bud variation of the peach, and in the seedless navel orange, which has been derived in the same way from the seeded orange. It is probable that variations from the normal are much more frequent in nature than we suspect, and the fact that they seldom persist is no proof that they do not occur. In the bine flower with nature of things the plants of a region are P arts t u ed to better adapted to that region than any other set would be, and are thus able to hold the ground and crowd out any different forms that might arise. If, as may occasion- ally happen, the new form is better fitted to the locality than FIG. 189. A nasturtium sport, show- ing the parts of the flower turned to leaves FIG. 100. Colum- PLANT BREEDING 261 the normal plants, it may take possession of the field and ex- clude the others. When a variation in a plant makes it very different from the original, it is commonly known as a sport, or imitation. Thus a red-flowered form may suddenly appear among plants that normally bear white or yellow flowers, double flowers may spring up in the midst of single-flowered specimens, or well-flavored fruits may be discovered among inferior kinds. The Lucretia dewberry was derived from the wild dewberry in this way, and many of our bush fruits have had a similar origin. The Concord grape is another interest- ing example of a sport derived from a familiar wild plant. Inducing variation. While one may occasionally find among wild plants a desirable specimen that has arisen from seed or bud variation, and transplant it to better quarters before the common plants of the region have overwhelmed it, the task of watching either wild or cultivated plants until such variations occur is a tedious one. Fortunately for the plant breeder, it has been found possible to hasten matters and to induce vari- ation by manipulating the plants in various ways. Increasing the food supply is one of the most efficient means of produc- ing variation. It seems as if many qualities latent in the plant are only brought out when food is abundant and all the other conditions for growth are favorable. A change in location may also cause plants to vary. When they have grown for any length of time in one region, they become in a measure spe- cially adapted to it and have little further need of change ; removal to a different region calls for new adjustments, and consequently favors variation. Farmers and gardeners often send to other localities for a change of seed, and it is believed that the practice of buying new seeds from the seedsmen each year, instead of saving seeds from the previous crop, may affect the character and variability of the new plants grown. A difference in the amount of light received by the plant is still another cause of variation. Pruning has a similar effect, 262 AGRONOMY partly through admitting more light to the plant, and partly through checking growth processes. Injury to the plant may also result in variation. It is a remarkable fact that when the type has once been induced to " break," or vary, the tendency for the resulting forms to continue to do so is strong. A notable instance is found in the plant known as the Boston fern, which is fre- quently grown in the window garden. A few years ago a sport with much-divided leaves was put on the market, but it was soon eclipsed by numerous much finer forms that had been developed from it. When once a desira- ble variation has been secured, its value need not be jeop- ardized by further breeding. It may then be multiplied vegetatively ; in fact, many improved plants will not come true from seeds, and their number must be increased in this way. Most of our fruits, flowers, and garden vegetables have arisen through variations from less desirable types. Hybrids and hybridizing. Another way in which new plants may be obtained or variations started is by crossing, or hybridiz- ing. In this process pollen from the flowers of one species, or variety, is applied to the stigmas in the flowers of another, Photograph by W. A. Terry FIG. 191. Two leaf sports from the common Christmas fern (Polystichum) PLANT BREEDING 263 the resulting seeds thus having the characteristics of two dif- ferent strains. The plants from such seeds are called crosses, or hybrid*. A few hybrids between different genera are known, but usually only closely related species, or varieties, are likely to cross, and the closer the relationship the more successful the operation is likely to be. The apple will not hybridize with the pine, nor the strawberry with the milkweed. The reason species do not cross more readily is because the tendency in nature is away from such crossing. If it were otherwise, we would have an endless confusion of plant forms in which no type would be recognizable. Among the more interesting forms of commercial value that have been produced by hybridizing are the plumcot, a hybrid between the plum and apricot; the citrange, a hybrid between the trifoliate orange, or citron, and the sweet orange ; and the tangelo, produced by crossing the tangerine orange and the grapefruit (pomelo). Among plants cultivated for their flowers, the canna, gladiolus, and orchid have been extensively hybridized. Producing the cross. In crossing plants the essential thing is to protect from all foreign pollen the stigmas of the flowers to be pollinated. This is accomplished by slipping a small paper bag over the flowers just before they open, and tying the open end of the bag about the twig which bears them. If one is to be absolutely sure of his cross, the flowers that are to supply the pollen should be similarly treated. If the flowers contain both carpels and stamens, as is usually the case, there is a chance that the flowers to be crossed may be pollinated by their own stamens unless these are removed. It is custom- ary, therefore, to cut away the corolla with a sharp pair of scissors before the flower expands, and remove the stamens with small forceps or the scissors. In plants like the pump- kin, cucumber, and corn, which bear their stamens and carpels in separate flowers, this treatment is not required, though the flowers should be protected from the wind, insects, and other 264 AGRoxo.MY pollinating agencies. In pollinating the flower the ripe anther is crushed to expose the pollen, which is then thickly applied to the waiting stigmas. Fresh pollen is always best, but in a few cases, especially in orchids, it may remain alive for months. After pollination the flower is once more cov- ered with the paper . bag until the stigma is no longer receptive and the ovary has begun to increase in size. In FIG. 102. Longitudinal section of all plants that bear both kinds flower and another prepared for c -i a f OrallS m the Same fl W6r pollination two crosses can be made, the stamens of one plant supplying pollen for the other, and vice versa. Sometimes a considerable difference exists in the progeny of the two crosses, though usually there is practi- cally none. Mendel's law. About half a century ago an Austrian monk named Gregory Mendel, while experimenting with different strains of peas in the monastery garden, discovered the curious law that governs the union of male and female elements by which hybrids are produced. An account of his experiments was published at the time, but the significance of the results did not impress the botanists of his day, and it was not until 1900, when the law was again independently discovered, that the importance of Mendel's work was recognized and the origi- nal experimenter given proper credit. Briefly the law is this : when two species, or forms, are crossed, the resulting hybrids tend to resemble one parent to the exclusion of the other. Thus if a red-flowered and a white-flowered form be crossed, the next generation is likely to have all red or all white flowers. If the flowers are red, we say the red color is dominant and the white recessive; or if the flowers are white, the red is PLANT BREEDING 265 recessive and the white dominant. That the color said to be recessive is merely latent and not lost is shown when the next generation of plants is produced. Here the recessive color appears again in approximately one quarter of the specimens ; and if these recessive plants are now bred together for gener- ations, they will bring no plants of the other color. Quite a different state of affairs exists in the behavior of the remain- ing three quarters of the specimens. If the recessive color is white, then these latter will be red, but only about one third of them, that is, one quarter of the whole number of plants, will be capable of producing only red flowers in the next generation, and so on indefinitely. The re- maining 50 per cent of the original num- ber will produce as before, approximately , FIG. 193. Diagram to illustrate Mendel's law one quarter pure red, one quarter pure white, and one half mixed, and this con- dition will continue through many successive generations. In explanation of this it is assumed that in the original white- flowered species all the gametes, or sexual cells, of the plant had the tendency to produce other white-flowered forms, and the equivalent cells in the red-flowered plants had a tendency to produce red flowers. When they are bred together, there- fore, the resulting plants are bound to have a mixture of red and white gametes, one of which becomes dominant in this second generation. In the next generation, however, the male 266 AGRONOMY and female gametes have another chance to pair, and this naturally results in some plants being produced from the pairing of two white gametes, and others from two rejl ones, while still others continue to be mixed as before. The example cited is probably much simpler than is usually the case in nature when a cross is made, since it is concerned with a single character only. It is likely that a similar relationship exists between each pair of contrasting characters in the plants hybridized, one character being dominant and one recessive in the first generation, but both appearing in the second in the proportions indicated. Smooth leaves may be recessive to downy ones, short stems may be dominant over long ones, large flowers dominant over small ones or the reverse. Thus the skillful cultivator is presented the opportunity of varying his plants in many ways by combining the characters differ- ently. It must not be assumed, however, that all plants be- have in the manner outlined in the foregoing. There are some crosses which are more or less perfect blends of the original forms, and others in which the characters do not appear to separate out according to Mendel's law in the succeeding gen- eration. In others certain characters may blend, though the species as a whole behaves according to the law. What these characters are and how they function in crossing is still a sub- ject for investigation. Crossing two forms in which some of the characters are alike may also result in intensifying these characters. Selection. Variations of whatever kind merely offer oppor- tunities for plant breeding; they give different plants, not necessarily better ones. The new forms are possibly as fre- quently below a desired standard as above it. Any permanent improvement must be made by careful and wise selection. The gardener practices a certain form of plant breeding, though possibly unconsciously, when he selects seeds from his best plants for producing the next year's crops. To achieve PLANT BREEDING 267 any noteworthy success, however, the plant breeder must have an ideal type clearly in mind and breed toward it. No progress will be made if the ideals are constantly changing and the plants selected for one feature one year, and another feature the 'next. By keeping the desired form constantly in view, taking advantage of all favorable variation and always select- ing the best, a steady advance may be made for a series of years. Now and then a sport may develop which will suddenly carry the work forward with a bound, but usually the small variations must be depended upon. There is a point, however, Photograph from Bergen and Caldwell's "Practical Botany" FIG. 194. A prize ear of corn that sold for two hundred fifty dollars beyond which each plant refuses to go. It would probably be impossible to produce tomatoes as large as pumpkins, though the size might be greatly increased by selection and, in fact, has been. Nor is it likely that a blue-flowered form could be developed from one with red flowers, though the color in the blue flowers might be varied greatly by such means. The average amount of sugar in sugar beets has been raised from 8 per cent to 18 per cent within a very short time, while single specimens have been found with much higher sugar content. In plant breeding it is usual to pay more attention to the average advance than to single cases, since 268 AGRONOMY widely aberrant forms are seldom stable. It is better to breed from a plant, all of whose members show some advance along the lines desired, than to breed from one which shows a greater advance in a single member. In breeding for large flowers, for instance, one should select plants in which all the flowers are a little larger, rather than a small-flowered form which may produce one or two superior blossoms. It is also desirable to breed for one thing at a time, or, if more is attempted, to choose characters which will not conflict in developing. Roguing. After a form has been developed to a point where its superiority to the common form is apparent, it can- not be depended upon to continue in this state without assist- ance. Left to itself it will soon " run out," that is, it will return to the general average of the type, and the improvement gained by breeding be lost. When the plants have acquired the de- sired form, further variation is undesirable and effort must now be directed to fixing the type. All plants, therefore, that are not close to the ideal form should be destroyed as soon as detected, to prevent the good and bad plants from mixing by pollination. This is called roguing. If one is endeavoring to breed a certain strain of plants, he will sow as many seeds as possible, preserve only the best for subsequent breeding, and destroy the others. Xenia. When a cross between two plants is made, any dif- ferences due to the union will not appear until a new genera- tion has been grown from the seeds resulting from the cross. In certain cases, however, the seeds themselves, or even the fruit, may show the effects of crossing. A good illustration may be had in corn, which readily mixes when two sorts are grown together. This effect is known as xenia. Ordinarily, when a plant is fertilized, a single gamete from the pollen tube unites with another in the ovule to form the cell from which the embryo is produced. In cases of xenia another gamete PLANT BREEDING 269 from the pollen tube unites with the nucleus of the cell in which the female, or egg, cell is located, and this, though unable to form an embryo, may nevertheless grow and form part or all of the endosperm, or albumen, which usually sur- rounds the embryo in the seeds. In the corn, xenia affects only the endosperm, though the fact that the second union of cells has been made is proof that the embryo in such seeds has also been produced from the sexual cells of two different strains. Parthenogenesis. While it is the rule that neither seeds nor young plants result from flowers unless fertilization takes place, there are not a few species that are able to produce new embryos without this process. The production of young plants in this way, from what are essentially unfertilized eggs, is called par- thenogenesis. This phenomenon is not entirely confined to plant life. The aphids, or plant lice, reproduce by parthenogenesis, and there are sometimes as many as thirteen generations of parthenogenetically produced females before a generation con- taining males is produced. Parthenogenesis differs from ordi- nary vegetative reproduction in plants in that it always results from an egg cell, while in vegetative reproduction any part of the plant may give rise to a new plant. PRACTICAL EXERCISES 1. Find the amount of variation that is exhibited by a hundred specimens of one kind selected at random, counting or measuring the parts as necessary. The following list is suggestive : pods of catalpa (variation in length and diameter) ; peas or beans (number in pod) ; sepals (colored organs) in hepatica (variations in number ; in color) ; petals of bloodroot (number) ; ray flowers of daisy, sunflower, or other composite (number); lobes of the leaves in mulberry (number) ; leaves in poplar or apple (width and breadth) ; leaflets in mountain ash, locust, or rose (number) ; fruits in a cluster of currants or grapes (number). In counting or measuring make a column of figures in numerical order, and opposite each figure make a straight mark each time a count falls upon it. Every fifth mark is; made across the preceding four, so that the 270 AGRONOMY marks may be counted by fives. In the illustration which represents the variation in the ray flowers of 55 specimens of sunflower the lowest number of rays found was 12, and five speci- . _ mens possessed this number. The highest / \J number was 20 with only one plant show- i i ing it. The average was 15, twelve heads ' ' possessing this number. The same data I O NJI can be expressed by a graph, similar to the one on page 52, in which the squares 13 //// / may represent the number of parts in one direction and the number of specimens / J- //// /// in the other. Express your work by both N 1 1 1^1 methods. 15 IHJ IHJ II 2. Visit any considerable area of one / hji i NJI crop, wild or cultivated, and select the speci- mens you would breed from if you desired / 7 fiJJ II to get () larger flowers, (i) more vigorous plants, (c) deeper color, (.MY Vacuoles, 57 Variation, how induced, '2<>l ; results of, 274 Venation, netted, 72 ; palmate, 72 ; parallel, 72 ; pinnate, 72 ; reticu- lated, 72 Verdant zone, 117 Vines, methods of climbing, 89 Warm-season plants, 134 Water, amount in plant parts, 97 ; amount transpired by plants, 90 ; as a weathering agent, 14, 18 ; capillary, 47 ; hygroscopic, 47 ; percolating, 47 ; plant form and, 125 ; use of, to plants, 96 Weathering, by decomposition, 13 ; by disintegration, 16 Weathering agents, 13, 17 Weeds, distribution of, 179 ; harm- fulness of, 165, 166 ; how to eradi- cate, 167; less harmful, 178; origin of, 164 ; sprays for, 108 Weeds, injurious: black bindweed, 172; buttercup, 176; Canada this- tle, 174 ; common bindweed, 172 ; crab grass. 175; dandelion, 171; foxtail, 176; green amaranth, 170; old witch grass, 176; oxeye daisy, 174 ; pigweed, 170 ; plantain, 171 ; prickly lettuce, 173 ; purslane. Kilt ; quack grass, 175; ragweed, 173; sorrel, 177; spotted spurge, 170; spreading amaranth, ]